SEYMOUR DURST 
 
 When you leave, please leave this book 
 
 Because it has been said 
 "Sver'tbing comes t' bim wbo waits 
 
 Except a loaned book." 
 
 Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library 
 Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library 
 
VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
MEMOIRS 
 
 0W0 §»lmi Ijpstortal $M\t% 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 JOURNAL 
 or a 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK IN 1679-80. 
 
 BROOKLYN, N. Y.: 
 PUBLISHED BY THE SOCIETY. 
 1 8 6 7. 
 
SANFORD PUBLICATION FUND. 
 
 COMMITTEE ON PUBLICATION. 
 
 RICHARD S. STORRS, JR., D.D. ALDEN J. SPOOXER, 
 
 J. CARSON BREVOORT, THOMAS W. FIELD, 
 
 CHARLES E. WEST, LL.D. 
 
 EDITION. 
 
 1.000 COPIES, OCTAVO. 
 100 COPIES, ROYAL OCTAVO. 
 
 MUNSELL, PRINTER, ALBANY. 
 
OFFICERS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Hong Eslantr ^istnrtcal £>orietg. 
 
 1866-67. 
 
 President, 
 
 First Vice-President, 
 
 Second Vice-President, 
 
 Foreign Corresponding Secretary, - 
 
 Home Corresponding Secretary, 
 
 Recording Secretary, - 
 
 Treasurer, .... 
 
 Librarian, • 
 
 J. CARSON BREVOORT. 
 JOHN GREENWOOD. 
 CHARLES E. WEST. 
 HENRY C. MURPHY. 
 - JOHN WINSLOW. 
 A. COOKE HULL. 
 GEORGE S. STEPHENSON. 
 - GEORGE HANNAH. 
 
 DIRECTORS. 
 
 J. CARSON BREVOORT, 
 R. S. STORRS, Jr., D.D., 
 A. ABBOTT LOW, 
 CHARLES E. WEST, LL.D., 
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 CHARLES CONGDON. 
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 A. COOKE HULL, M.D., 
 JOSHUA M. VANCOTT, 
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 ALDEN J. 
 
 JOHN WINSLOW, 
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 SPOONER. 
 
 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. 
 
 R. S. STORRS, Jr., D.D., Chairman. 
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 ALDEN J. SPOONER, HENRY SHELDON, 
 
 ETHELBERT S. MILLS, JOSIAH O. LOW, 
 
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COUNSELLORS OF THE SOCIETY. 
 
 King9 County : 
 
 HON. JOHN A. LOTT, 
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 GEORGE W. PARSONS, 
 
 Queens County : 
 
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 HON. JOHN A. KING, 
 
 HON. RICHARD C. McCORMICK, 
 
 JOHN HAROLD, 
 
 L. BRADFORD PRINCE, 
 
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 Suffolk County: 
 
 HON. SELAH B. STRONG, 
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 HON. J. LAWRENCE SMITH, 
 REV. EPHER WHITAKER, 
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 HENRY P. HEDGES. 
 
 HONORARY AND CORRESPONDING MEMBERS. 
 
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 JOSEPH JACKSON HOWARD, LL.D., - - - Greenwich, England. 
 
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 REV. CALEB DAVIS BRADLEE, Boston. 
 
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 PROF. JOSIAH P. COOKE, Harvard College. 
 
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 HON. ANDREW D. WHITE, Syracuse. 
 
THE LONG ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 The Long Island Historical Society was incorporated in April, 
 1863, and has, therefore, nearly completed the fourth year of its 
 existence. 
 
 It numbers at present 203 Life Members, and 802 Annual Mem- 
 bers ; with 20 Honorary and Corresponding Members, distinguished 
 for their interest and success in historical studies. 
 
 Its Library contains nearly thirteen thousand volumes, with more 
 than fifteen thousand pamphlets, exclusive, in both cases, of dupli- 
 cates. Many of the volumes are rare and costly ; and the pamphlets — 
 especially the large number of them which concern the recent civil 
 war — are becoming continually more important to students, and 
 more difficult to be obtained. A considerable collection of valuable 
 manuscripts, illustrating the early history of the state and of the 
 country, has also been made by the Society. 
 
 The Museum contains many classified specimens, representing the 
 Natural History of Long Island, together with a large number of 
 medals, coins, and curiosities ; and a Gallery of portraits, busts, 
 bronzes, and historic memorials, which was commenced soon after 
 the Society was organized, includes already many objects of inte- 
 rest, and is constantly being enriched with additional gifts. 
 
 Fifty-four papers on historical subjects have been presented at the 
 regular or special meetings of the Society, besides twenty in the 
 
viii LONG ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 particular department of Natural History; and courses of popu- 
 lar historical lectures have twice been given — in the "winters of 
 18G4 and 1805 — under the auspices of the Society. 
 
 Through the generous and wise liberality of a number of its 
 members, the institution now possesses permanent funds, amounting 
 in the aggregate to more than sixty thousand dollars, for the main- 
 tenance and enlargement of its Library and Museum. These funds 
 constitute an endowment, which is designed to be as enduring as the 
 Society itself; but the income arising from it is to be annually 
 expended, for the purposes specified, under the direction of the 
 Board of Directors. 
 
 The Publication Fund, which is not included in the above, and 
 by which the Society is enabled to print the volumes which it designs 
 to issue, consists of two thousand dollars, given for this specific use 
 by Mr. Edwards S. Sanford. This sum, or so much of it as shall 
 be needed, will be expended in the preparation and publication of 
 each volume in turn ; and when, from the sale of such volume, the 
 fund has been reimbursed, another in the series will follow. 
 
 The Directors congratulate themselves on being enabled to com- 
 mence their work in this department with so unique and attractive 
 a volume as that which they now have the pleasure of offering to the 
 members of the Society; and they indulge the confident hope that 
 through the successive annual publications, of which this is the first, 
 the institution will do very much, not only for the gratification and 
 the culture of those directly connected with it, hut for the furtherance 
 of historical studies, and for the extension of a just and lively inte- 
 rest in such studies, throughout the land. 
 
 Brooklyn, N. Y., February 1, 1867. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK 
 
 AND A 
 
 V>m in Mtvml of the gtmeriaw <M<mta 
 
 IN 
 
 I679-8O, 
 
 BY 
 
 JASPAR D ANKERS AND PETER SLUYTER 
 
 OP WIEWBRD IN FRIESLAND. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN DUTCH FOR TEE 
 LONG ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY, AND EDITED BY 
 
 HENRY C. MURPHY, 
 
 Foreign Corresponding Secretary of the Society. 
 
 BROOKLYN. 
 1 8 6 7. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by 
 Henry C. Murphy, 
 For the Long Island Historical Society, 
 In the District Court of the United States for the Southern District 
 of New York. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Preface, v 
 
 Introduction, ix 
 
 Voyage to New York, 3 
 
 New York and its Vicinity, 109 
 
 Journey to the Delaware, 167 
 
 The Hudson and its Affluents, 257 
 
 Boston, and the Voyage Home, 369 
 
 Index, 429 
 
 List of Plates, 437 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The manuscript from which the following translation 
 has been made, came into my hands a few years since 
 in Holland. In what manner it had been preserved up 
 to that time, could not be ascertained. It was in the 
 possession of Mr. Frederick Miiller, bookseller at 
 Amsterdam, when I procured it ; but, the probability 
 is, it was taken in charge by some member of the 
 community, at the time of the dispersion of the Laba- 
 dists from Wiewerd, and had been handed down, from 
 one person to another, afterwards, until its character 
 and value failing to be appreciated, it became at last 
 the mere waif he found it. The text appears to be 
 a carefully transcribed copy, plainly written in a 
 different handwriting from that upon the drawings 
 or views which accompany it, and which, as the 
 marks upon them show, are the original sketches 
 made upon the spot. 
 
 The journal thus fortuitously recovered is a plain 
 story, told in simple language, of a voyage across the 
 Atlantic nearly two hundred years ago, and of 
 
v i preface: 
 
 journeys to many of the American settlements at that 
 time. It was written under the influence of peculiar 
 religious views and national attachments, which are 
 sought to be explained in the introduction, and for 
 which the reader will know how to make the proper 
 allowances. My task has been to render it into 
 English as faithfully as possible, without suppressing 
 any remark however personal or trivial it might seem. 
 The names of persons and places have been retained 
 in the orthography of the writer, although it is very 
 often different in regard to the same word. The italic 
 letter has been used by the printer in order to denote 
 when it is the same as in the original. The French 
 phrases are also the same as in the journal. 
 
 It is proper to remark that a portion of the 
 manuscript still remains untranslated. It is a frag- 
 ment of a general account of the Indians, and occurs 
 after the hiatus mentioned on page 30 1. It has been 
 omitted because it does not purport to give the 
 observations of the journalist himself, but is a mere 
 compilation for the most part from printed sources, 
 of descriptions of the manners and customs of the 
 race, presenting little or nothing new. What the 
 writer saw and experienced in regard to them is given 
 in the journal; and is all that is of any value or 
 interest, from its showing the actual condition and 
 
PREFACE. y [[ 
 
 notions of the Indians, as modified by their contact 
 and intercourse with the Europeans for little more 
 than half a century. With the exception of this 
 imperfect summary of Indian customs and two of the 
 views elsewhere mentioned the manuscript is given 
 entire. 
 
 In preparing the notes and introduction, I have 
 received much aid in regard to the documentary 
 evidence at Albany and Annapolis from Dr. E. B. 
 O'Callaghan, of the former city, and Mr. George L. 
 Davis, of Baltimore, and also valuable suggestions 
 from the former in other respects. The rectified 
 drawings of the views of New York, are by Mr. J. 
 Carson Brevoort, who has also kindly furnished notes 
 to the original illustrations. 
 
 H. C. M. 
 
 Brooklyn, February 1, 1867. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Upon the liberation of the ecclesiastical interests of Hol- 
 land from the hierarchy of Rome, there commenced a series 
 of controversies in the reformed church in regard to its 
 government, doctrines and discipline, which continued for 
 many generations, and some of which are hardly settled 
 at this day, giving rise, whatever may have been the effect 
 upon the cause of religion itself, at least to great dissension 
 and strife. At first the questions were confined to the 
 authority of the magistracy in the church. Most of the 
 ministers adopted tbe views of Calvin, attributing to the 
 state the right only to protect the church and its external 
 interests, and considering the church an entirely distinct 
 and independent body, with a law-making power within 
 itself ; while others favored a system of subordination to 
 the civil power, objecting to the maintenance of an inde- 
 pendent spiritual authority as a restoration of the papal 
 system which had been overthrown. Arminius advocated 
 the latter plan, and thence arose, in the first part of the 
 seventeenth century, the great controversy in regard to it 
 between the Gomarists and Armenians, which came to 
 involve finally and almost exclusively the doctrines concern- 
 ing fore-ordination, the atonement of Christ and other points 
 of faith, which were finally determined by the decrees of the 
 
 B 
 
X 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 famous Synod of Dort. The Armenians were there over- 
 thrown, and the doctrines authoritatively declared by that 
 synod, and definitively established as fundamental dogmas 
 of the Dutch reformed church, that election is the un- 
 changeable purpose of God, whereby he has, before the 
 foundation of the world, chosen from the whole human 
 race a certain number of persons to redemption in Chrjst, 
 and that others are passed by in the eternal decree whom 
 God has decreed to leave in the common misery into which 
 they have plunged themselves; and that it was the will of 
 God, that Christ should effectually redeem those only who 
 were from eternity chosen to salvation. These points 
 being settled, contentions of a different character soon arose, 
 relating primarily to the application of the systems of 
 scholastic philosophy to biblical science and the method of 
 scriptural interpretation, and afterwards to the interpreta- 
 tion itself. Johannes Kok, professor of divinity in the 
 University of Leyden, whose name, latinized, according 
 to the fashion of the learned at that time, into Cocceius, 
 gave the name of Cocceians to his partisans, sought to 
 separate theology from the old philosophy, and to confine 
 the expositions of the Bible to biblical terms. In this 
 particular he seems to have had the vantage ground ; but 
 he maintained other opinions which were considered 
 dangerous to religion. He maintained that the events of 
 the church in all future time are prefigured in the Old 
 Testament, and its words and phrases are to be used in 
 any sense of which they are susceptible ; and thus the ten 
 commandments were promulgated by Moses not as a rule 
 of obedience, but as a representation of the covenant of 
 
INTRODUCTION. xi 
 
 grace. The commandment in regard to the observance of 
 the Sabbath, he held, was abrogated by the sepulture of 
 Christ. These views were combated by Gysbert Voet, 
 called Voetius, professor of theology at Utrecht, who had 
 been a member of the synod of Dort. He held that the 
 theology of the reformed church must stand or fall with 
 the philosophy of Aristotle. He insisted upon a strict 
 observance of the Sabbath according to the Jewish law. 
 This controversy became general, and all the ministers of 
 the church were ranged under the Cocceian or Voetian 
 banner. As a consequence, disorders existed in the church; 
 with one, the least domestic employment on the Sabbath 
 was a sin; with another, the day was no more holy than 
 other days; "the one village on Sunday was a dead house; 
 the other a house of feasting." 
 
 The Cocceians were accused of adopting the philosophy 
 of Des Cartes which had then come into vogue, and which 
 had, however, only this in common with the notions of 
 Cocceius, that it discarded the philosophy of the schools. 
 The fundamental principles of the Cartesian system, that 
 in beginning to philosophize, every thing was to be doubted, 
 and the only axiom to be received was : "I think, there- 
 fore, I am," were deemed atheistical ; and so also the 
 proposition that the inspired writers, when they spoke of 
 the facts of nature, spoke according to men's understandings 
 at the time, which were uninformed, as when they spoke 
 of the earth standing still, the contrary being the fact; 
 besides other deductions of his, really more liable to the 
 charge. These views were falsely attributed to the Coc- 
 ceians, however, and served to embitter the controversy. 
 
xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Such was the condition of the reformed church in 
 Holland at the time of the rise of the remarkable sect 
 whose history it becomes necessary briefly to present to 
 the reader in order that he may understand tbe circum- 
 stances under which the following Journal was written and 
 the spirit which actuated its authors, and be able more 
 correctly to estimate its character and value. This nar- 
 rative is the production of two persons who visited this 
 country in 1679, during the infancy of European settle- 
 ments here, with the view of ascertaining the nature of the 
 country and government, and selecting a suitable place for 
 the establishment of a colony of the religious community 
 to which they belonged. This sect, which, originating ten 
 years before in the islands of Zeeland and, leaving there, 
 was debarred full religious privileges in Holland, had now, 
 after wandering in a body first to Westphalia and after- 
 wards to Denmark, for the sake of those liberties which the 
 magistrates of Middleburgh and Amsterdam had denied 
 it, become permanently established with the consent of the 
 states of Friesland, at Wiewerd, a small village in that 
 province. Its members Avere known as Labadists, profess- 
 ing a kind of mysticism, regulating their lives by the 
 divine light of the inner man, and seeking to bring 
 together all the elect of God, separate from the world 
 into one visible church, which, as they said, like a city, set 
 upon a hill, could not be hid. In doctrine they held the 
 tenets of the Dutch reformed church ; but they also main- 
 tained other opinions and adopted practices not recognized 
 by the authority of that church. Its founder, Jean de 
 Labadie, born near Bordeaux in 1610, of a good family, 
 
INTRODUCTION. x iii 
 
 was an enthusiast, believing himself, from the first, inspired 
 by God, and chosen by him to build up his church on 
 earth. Educated in the college of the Jesuits at Bordeaux, he 
 became while there a member of that famous order and in 
 due time was ordained a priest. During his novitiate he 
 had applied himself with great assiduity to the reading 
 of the Bible, to prayer and other acts of piety, and at the 
 same time had prosecuted his studies of rhetoric and the 
 scholastic philosophy, with remarkable success. "With his 
 priestly office he claimed to become possessed of the spirit 
 of John the Baptist, and like him, in the wilderness, lived 
 on herbs ; which, however, so enfeebled his health as to 
 compel him to ask his dismission from the order, which 
 was honorably given. He then assumed the habit of a 
 secular priest, and preached at Bordeaux and neighboring 
 places with great fervor and eloquence, moving his 
 audience to tears and sighs. His fame spread to Paris 
 whither he was invited by the General of the Oratory. He 
 was now thirty years of age, with a mind matured and 
 stored with scriptural and profane learning. He was not 
 less successful in tbe French capital than he had been in 
 the province. His rare powers attracted great crowds of 
 all descriptions of persons; men of state and ecclesiastics, 
 bishops and priests all thronged to listen to his discourses. 
 The bishop of Amiens tendered him the position of pre- 
 bendary of the Collegiate church of St. Nicholas in that 
 city, which he accepted. Here he distinguished himself 
 by his holiness and zeal, especially insisting upon the 
 necessity of reading the Holy Scriptures; and, in order to 
 facilitate that object, caused a large number of copies of 
 
xiv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the New Testament in French to be sold. His views in 
 regard to the Jesuits underwent a change, and after several 
 years' service at Amiens he retired to Port Royal des 
 Champs and entered into full communion with the Jansen- 
 ists. From thence he went to Bazas near Bordeaux, and 
 to Toulouse, and finally to Graville among the Carmelite 
 Mara, at which places he taught the doctrine that a con- 
 templative life in which the soul enjoyed the divine grace 
 was perfection on earth, and that it was necessary to prac- 
 tice mental prayer, and a condition so abstracted from the 
 world as to be entirely insensible even to the touch of 
 another. As he had charge of a nunnery at Toulouse he 
 was accused of teaching this doctrine for base purposes, 
 with being a mammillarian and guilty of other abominable 
 practices. These charges seem to have been the inventions 
 of his enemies ; at all events they are discredited generally 
 by the Butch writers. He now made public pretensions to 
 divine inspiration, declaring openly in a sermon that he was 
 directed by the Savior himself to assume his name, and he 
 did accordingly call himself Jean de Jesus Christ; claiming 
 also the spirit of prophecy, and wearing the white habit of 
 the Carmelites, because it was, he said, the garb of Elias. 
 He prophesied that the beginning of the reign of the 
 kingdom of grace would take place in the year 1666. These 
 vagaries subjected him to ecclesiastical censure, which he 
 avoided by flight to Montauban, the citadel of Calvinism in 
 France; where, on the 19th of October, 1650, he totally 
 abjured the Catholic religion. He made a declaration of 
 faith at that time, in which he alleged that the spirit 
 of God was leading him to be a reformer ; that when he 
 
INTRODUCTION. xv 
 
 was ordained a priest in the Roman church he felt on the 
 occasion that Jesus Christ laid his hands upon him, before 
 the bishop did, aud he was much more sensible of the 
 inward ointment the Holy Trinity poured upon his heart 
 than the oil with which the bishop anointed his hands ; 
 that he was sanctified from his mother's body to the pur- 
 pose of reforming the Christian religion ; that in his infancy 
 he had felt the inspiration of the Holy Ghost which, like 
 Samuel, he was not able to understand in consequence of 
 his youth ; and while living with the Jesuits he had learned 
 from the Holy Spirit how to pray and meditate, and through 
 heavenly influences was able to write and speak appropri- 
 ately of the greatest mysteries of the gospel according to 
 the rule of the true faith. This was the language of the 
 blindest enthusiasm ; but it furnishes the key to his subse- 
 quent life. After two years of preparation at Montauban, he 
 was ordained a minister in the Protestant church ; where, 
 and at Orange and Geneva, he passed sixteen years of his 
 life ; discharging the duties of a pastor faithfully, and with 
 great acceptance. "'He has not only," wrote the consistory 
 at. Montauban on his leaving that place, " exceeded others 
 by the eloquence of his discourses, but by the uprightness 
 of his example. He has gone before them like a blazing 
 torch placed upon a height whereby the unfruitful works 
 of darkness have been exposed. He has excelled others in 
 expressing in his life what he taught in the chancel. He 
 has not sought after the earthly and worldly, or had any 
 desire therefor, but has pursued with zeal heavenly and 
 divine things. In short he has been to us a joy, comfort 
 and example." At Geneva he revived his views in regard 
 
xvi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 to the approach of Christ's reign upon earth, and his own 
 claim to divine inspiration. He was eloquent in denouncing 
 the manners of the times, and the cold and formal religion 
 which prevailed among professing Christians. He gained 
 converts to his peculiar notions, among whom were two 
 who adhered to him through life, Pierre Yvon and Pierre 
 du Lignon. The former succeeded to his power and 
 position as lather of the Lahadists, and the latter occu- 
 pied as long as he lived, a position only second in the 
 community. 
 
 While de Lahadie was at Geneva he was heard by John 
 Godschalk van Schurman, minister at Basle. This clergy- 
 man was originally from Utrecht, whence his zeal in the 
 cause of religion had led him to Germany, and thence to 
 Switzerland. He visited Geneva in 1662, where he heard 
 de Labadie; and wrote enthusiastically to Holland, in rela- 
 tion to his piety, devotional zeal, and his efforts to reform 
 the church. He returned to Utrecht two years afterwards, 
 and repeated the story of the marvellous gifts, spiritual 
 fervor and reformatory labors of de Labadie ; and, at his 
 request, a correspondence was opened with the preacher, 
 which led to his call in 1667, to take charge of the 
 Walloon church at Middleburgh, in Zeeland, through the 
 instrumentality of Yoetius and other professors at Utrecht, 
 j^ot less distinguished even than Voetius for piety and 
 learning was the sister of John Godschalk, Anna Maria 
 van Schurman, of Utrecht, a lady also of rare genius and 
 elegant acquirements. She wrote both prose and verse, 
 in Arabic, Hebrew, Latin, Greek, German, Italian and 
 French, as well as in Dutch, her mother tongue; and 
 
INTRODUCTION. xvii 
 
 enjoyed an extensive correspondence with learned men at 
 home and abroad. Captivated from the first with the 
 eloquence and religious devotion of de Labadie, she at 
 once embraced his views, abandoned her home and her 
 associations with the learned, followed him in his persecu- 
 tions from place to place, sitting, as she declared, " at 
 the feet of her beloved minister, like Paula at the feet of 
 her highly prized Hieronymus in a foreign land," and, after 
 his death, cloistered herself with the rest of his followers at 
 Wiewerd, where she died in full communion with this 
 extraordinary sect, always regarded by them as the greatest 
 triumph of their religion. On his journey to Middel- 
 burgh, de Labadie stopped at her house in Utrecht, where 
 he spent ten days in conference with Voetius and other 
 eminent professors. But he did, not impress the mind 
 of Voetius favorably; on the contrary, that learned and 
 pious man, who prayed and labored for reform in his be- 
 loved church, discovered in de Labadie the schismatic and 
 fanatic, and quickly repudiated all connection with him, 
 notwithstanding his agency in calling him to Holland. 
 De Labadie proceeded to Middelburgh by the way of 
 , Amsterdam, preaching everywhere reformation in the 
 church. " If Christianity," he said, " will, it can become 
 what" it has been. It is just that the last coming of Messiah 
 should be in the condition in which it was left by the first." 
 
 He was now fifty-seven years old, and had reached a 
 period of his life when the purpose of his enthusiasm if 
 not of his ambition, was matured; or, to speak more 
 according to his own language, the year had arrived when 
 the churches of Christ were to be collected together, and 
 o 
 
xv iii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the reign of the true church was to commence on earth, 
 under his guidance, as the chosen instrument of* God for 
 that purpose. His power over the pop'ular mind had "been 
 nowhere exhibited more strongly than it was now in 
 Holland. His intense religious feeling, his fervent elo- 
 quence addressed to the Walloons in their own language, 
 and his simplicity, bordering on austerity of manners, 
 touched the hearts and imaginations of all who listened to 
 him, and produced an unexampled excitement wherever he 
 appeared. He preached at Middelburgh to immense 
 .crowds, deploring the decay of the church, attacking 
 ahuses and exhorting to a more holy life. He seemed now 
 fully to address himself to the great work of reform, and 
 would brook no interference. As he had left Geneva 
 without testimonials of dismission, so he commenced his 
 ministration at Middelburgh in defiance of the require- 
 ments of the AValloon church, refusing to sign its con- 
 fession of faith and discipline, and alleging as a reason that 
 Christ was declared in it to have suffered on the altar of 
 the cross, whereas nowhere in the Bible is the cross of 
 Christ called an altar. He denounced several eminent 
 divines of the Dutch church as unsound, and inveighed 
 particularly against a book written by the minister of the 
 "Walloon church at Utrecht, on the interpretation of the 
 scriptures, pronouncing it infamous and heterodox, and 
 demanding from a synod held at Xaarden its condemnation 
 for that reason ; but the synod declared it to be orthodox, 
 and condemned de Labadie to make reparation to the 
 author, which he refused. The synod then passed a 
 decree suspending him from the ministry until the meeting 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xix 
 
 of the next synod. He disregarded their decree ; another 
 synod was held at Dort, called by the states of Zeeland for 
 the purpose of determining the controversy, when, after a 
 session of eight days, which he attended, he was absolutely 
 deposed. This also he set at defiance. Returning to Middel- 
 burgh with his friends, they forced open the doors of the 
 church, and he preached in it and administered the Holy 
 Communion. The magistracy had now to interfere, and he 
 was compelled to leave the city. 
 
 In this controversy there were on both sides deeper 
 causes which hastened the catastrophe. De Labadie 
 himself was intractable, and with the mission he claimed 
 from God, he could not be otherwise. To admit the 
 supremacy and control of this church over him involved 
 the abandonment of the great purpose of his life. He 
 could acknowledge no higher church than the one which 
 under his instrumentality was to collect all the truly 
 pious together into one membership apart from the 
 world. He seems, from the first moment he put his 
 foot on Dutch soil, to have contemplated there the fulfill- 
 ment of his prophecy, and the refoi'mation or conversion 
 of the churehes of Holland, as the beginning of the end. 
 Therefore it was that Voetius and Essenius, when they 
 heard his sentiments from his own lips, discovered in his 
 purposes an inevitable schism. On the other side there 
 were jealousies and suspicions of him as an innovator. He 
 not only offended the Dutch and Walloon ministers by 
 the freedom and arrogance of his remarks concerning them, 
 but he had emptied their churches. Their congregations, 
 rich and poor, had forsaken their pews and their old pastors, 
 
/ 
 
 , xx . INTRODUCTION. 
 
 to listen to the pious and persuasive words of this foreigner, 
 and to lament with him the ahuses of the church and the 
 ahsence of spiritual religion. He led them into his views 
 of returning to the model of the primitive church; and to 
 believe that there, in the islands and marshes of the 
 Northern ocean, the truth was to burst forth and, as from a 
 centre, to irradiate the world. The ministers were, there- 
 fore, alarmed for their influence over their people. Thus it 
 was, impelled by his own convictions and purposes on 
 the one hand, and opposed by the clergy on the other, de 
 Labadie became an outlaw of the Dutch church. He was, 
 however, sustained by a powerful party in Middelburgh, 
 who regarded his condemnation as illegal, and he still 
 preached to them. They met daily for religious services, 
 morning and evening, and on Sundays three times, sitting 
 without any distinction of rank or position promiscuously 
 on benches, he and the elders like the rest, except that his 
 seat was a little more elevated for the sake of enabling 
 them to hear and see him better when he spoke. " There 
 is so much modesty, union, zeal and piety," he wrote in a 
 private letter, " that we cannot sufficiently admire and 
 praise God for having enabled us to see such a church 
 springing up, composed of such leaders, for we have many 
 doctors and other eminent persons, but all humble, fervent, 
 pious, marvellously edifying ; bo that all the world agree 
 there are no better or more exemplary members than ours, 
 well informed and enlightened, and prepared for all conse- 
 quences, be it the loss of goods, houses and conveniences. 
 We do not permit any abuse or excess either in dress or 
 ornaments, or in the business which they follow. We 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxi 
 
 regulate every thing evangelically and apostolically, being 
 determined, as far as we can to restore the living image of 
 the primitive church as well as the pure doctrine which 
 astonished the world. Many persons, moreover, are 
 attracted to us from other places ; for God has made every- 
 where an union with us and with our manner and spirit, 
 so that we hope the Lord will soon display his virtue and 
 power in grace which we call the coming of the king." 
 
 Banished from Middelburgh, de Labadie betook himself 
 with many of his adherents to the neighboring city of 
 Veere on the same island about five miles distant. At the 
 present time an utterly insignificant place, Veere was 
 then a city of some importance and trade, and enjoyed 
 independent municipal privileges. Its civic authorities 
 received the outcast with honors. They conceived the idea 
 of founding a church to be under his administration, as an 
 important addition to their city. Meanwhile the Dutch 
 and Scotch churches there opened their doors to him. A 
 new day of prosperity seemed dawning upon the place. 
 Many of the principal Middelburghers, including the minis- 
 ters of the "Walloon consistory, removed thither with their 
 families and property. The new church, under the name 
 of the Evangelical church, now declared itself independent 
 of all human authority, and to be free to follow no other 
 rule than the pure doctrines of the gospel according 
 to the examples of the Apostolic church. De Labadie, 
 they said, had not abandoned one popedom to assume 
 another. Thus the separation of the Labadists from the 
 authority of the reformed church was complete ; though 
 they avowed their adhesion to its cardinal doctrines. 
 
xxii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Many persons of Middelburgh who adhered to de 
 Labadie, could not change their residence and follow him; 
 hut the distance between the two cities was so short they 
 could easily go to Veere and attend his preaching, 
 especially on the Sabbath, which they did in large numbers. 
 It was a melancholy spectacle for the ministers and 
 magistrates of Middelburgh to see their own temples 
 deserted, and the roads on Sunday and week days even, 
 filled with people on foot and in vehicles, leaving their 
 city ; and it could not be endured. There arose, in conse- 
 cpuence, a contest between the cities, which was the more 
 serious, in consequence of the political righte which 
 attached to the cities of the Low Countries, of independence 
 of each other, and of any common superior in their 
 municipal affairs. The magistrates of Middelburgh de- 
 manded of those of Veere, the expulsion of de Labadie ; 
 and on the refusal of the Veerians to comply with their 
 demand, applied to the states of Zeeland, which ordered 
 the authorities of Veere to expel him. The Veerians stood 
 firm upon their chartered privileges, and still refused ; and 
 bound each other by an oath to maintain and defend their 
 rights. The walls were put in a state of defense; the 
 gates were closed; and the burghers placed under arms, 
 to await the attack which the Middelburghers were pre- 
 paring to make. Every sign betokened a bloody conflict. 
 At the critical moment de Labadie appeared as the' man of 
 peace, appealing to the citizens to abstain from force. 
 The kingdom to which he belonged was not of this world. 
 He would leave the city for the sake of order, and in 
 obedience to the suggestions made to him by the Lord. 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxiii 
 
 Such self-sacrifice won still more on their regard, and 
 extorted admiration even from his opponents. The 
 Veerians finally complied with his request, and he immedi- 
 ately left the city. 
 
 He turned his eyes and steps toward Amsterdam. Per- 
 haps that was the original destination he had contemplated. 
 Rich, powerful, tolerant, receiving law from no other city, 
 hut giving high example at least to all, it was the pride 
 and glory of the Dutch capital to open her gates to all 
 good citizens of whatever sentiment. She had sheltered 
 and protected the Brownists, and others not in communion 
 in doctrine or practice with the reformed church. Shielded 
 hy the enlightened magistracy of that great city he would 
 he safe in huilding up the new church. He arrived there 
 in August, 1669, accompanied by Yvon, du Lignon, 
 Menuret, and other disciples and adherents, male and 
 female. They hired the upper part of a large house, 
 containing a commodious hall, where they all met, morning 
 and evening, for religious exercises. They also eat their 
 meals there together as one family. 
 
 The Lahadists were well received at Amsterdam, and 
 enjoyed, at first, every protection from the burgomasters. 
 The eloquence of de Labadie was not forgotten, and the 
 circumstances attending his sojourn in Zeeland had 
 increased his fame. He was permitted to preach publicly, 
 which he did in the large hall before mentioned. The 
 members of the new church increased rapidly. He sent 
 out his disciples to other cities, JJtrecht, the Hague and 
 Rotterdam, where proselytes were made and societies formed, 
 as branches of the church at Amsterdam. His particular 
 
xxiv 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 doctrines were promulgated; 1 that by certain inspirations 
 of the Holy Spirit, Christ could be seen in God, and God 
 enjoyed and glorified; the exoteric or external in religion 
 was distinguished from the refined or elevated, the former 
 only was contained in the scriptures, the latter was inspired 
 in the elect by God. It behooved men to stand every 
 moment of the day*, according to the special influence of 
 God's spirit, which is bound to no time or place, and, 
 therefore, Sunday was no holier than other days of the 
 week, nor was the reading of the Bible actually necessary; 
 but, at all events, they should give less attention to its 
 literal meaning, than to the suggestion of God's spirit. 
 The members of the true church were to be discovered 
 by their zeal and fervor in glorifying God and Jesus 
 Christ, by the purity of their lives, their humility and 
 patience, their union in spirit, their communion in every 
 thing, even in temporal goods. His converts were, therefore, 
 to join their fortunes with his, or abandon his church. 
 Many persons accordingly prepared to go and live in his 
 community, by selling their property, and even abandoning 
 their families, for one of the true faith could not, with 
 propriety, live even with a husband or wife, who was not 
 of the elect, as such marriages were not Christian, and, in 
 fact, were null and void by the law of God. In some 
 respects his views assimilated to those of the quakers ; and 
 
 1 Among others who embraced the new faith at this time was Ch. de 
 Rochefdrt, minister of the Walloon church at Rotterdam. He is known 
 as the author of the work beariug the title of " Histoire Naturelle et Morale 
 des Antilles de rAmerique,'' which was first published at Rotterdam, in 
 1665, and afterwards with additions in 1667 and 1681. He, however, soon 
 abandoned Labadism and became one of its greatest opponents. 
 
 » 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxv 
 
 Robert Barclay and George Keith, well known preachers 
 of that sect, went over from England to Amsterdam, to 
 confer with him, and offered to take him into their society, 
 which he declined. 1 The success of the new church 
 alarmed the ministers of Amsterdam, and they made 
 frequent applications to the burgomasters to silence him, 
 but in vain, until a change of a portion of these magistrates 
 took place the next year. Then the burgomasters issued 
 an edict, forbidding any one from attending the services of 
 de Labadie, who was not a member of his household- 
 community. This order was, seemingly, a compromise, 
 by which the purposes of the clergy might be attained, 
 and the members of the society not interfered with in the 
 enjoyment of their religious convictions. But it deprived 
 de Labadie of the opportunity of preaching to the public 
 at large. Shut up within the walls of his own house he 
 could make no converts. To remain, therefore, at Amster- 
 dam any longer was incompatible with the progress of the 
 church. 
 
 In this extremity the Labadists were not without friends 
 elsewhere, able and willing to afford them full religious 
 liberty. Among others who favored them was Elizabeth, 
 daughter of the Elector Palatine, and abbess of the free 
 
 1 " Either on that account," says Gerard Croes, " or in derision by their 
 opponents, the name of quakers was applied to the Labadists at that time, 
 and followed them from Amsterdam to Herford, where they were often 
 saluted with the name, and stones thrown at them." — Historia Quakeriana, 
 516. William Penn, who afterwards visited them, both at Herford and 
 Wiewerd, declared that "they were a plain, serious people, and came 
 near to Friends, as to silence in meeting, women speaking, preaching by the 
 spirit, plainness in garb and furniture in their houses." — Penn's Travels, 4 
 ed., 98. 
 
 D 
 
xxv i 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 abbey of Jlerford in "Westphalia. Tins princess, eminent 
 for lier piety, was a friend of Anna Maria Van Schurman, 
 who had joined her fortunes with the community at 
 Amsterdam, and through whom she tendered them the 
 freedom of Ilerford, which was accepted. They prepared 
 to leave ; some sold their property ; such as could not now 
 go, supplied the others with money, and arnid tears and 
 sorrowing of a large crowd who witnessed their departure, 
 de Labadie and his little band left Amsterdam. 
 
 At Ilerford every thing promised well. The Princess 
 Elizabeth was charmed with de Labadie; he taught her 
 the vanity of the world; he consoled her in sickness. 
 Having entire freedom to preach he gained converts rapidly. 
 A printing press was established. Religious excitement 
 prevailed so in the town that the inhabitants neglected 
 their affairs, rejoicing in the inward light. Most reprehen- 
 sible practices, however, were indulged in. On one occasion, 
 after having partaken of the Holy Communion, some of 
 them, men and women, drank and danced together for 
 spiritual joy. Some of the most intelligent of the society, dis- 
 gusted at the circumstance, abandoned the society altogether. 
 Marriages were formed in private without conforming to 
 the law of the country ; being regarded as spiritual unions, 
 emblems of the highest degree of communion with Christ, 
 that is between the truly pious, the elect. In consequence 
 of these proceedings the intervention of the Imperial Diet 
 was asked, and orders were given to the Princess Elizabeth 
 to cause the Labadists to leave Hei-ford. 
 
 They accordingly removed in 1672 to Altona, in 
 Denmark, where entire freedom of religion existed by 
 
INTRODUCTION. XXvii 
 
 royal decree. In 1674 de Labadie died there, satisfied his 
 mission on earth was accomplished and the church established. 
 " Nothing," said he, " remains for me to do except to go 
 to my God." "Death is merely ascending from a lower 
 and narrower chamber to one higher and loftier." Yvon 
 succeeded to his position and title of Father; but the society 
 did not remain at Altona much longer after that event. 
 Disputes arose with the authorities of the place in regard to 
 a tax for the benefit of the Lutheran church. Besides a war 
 was impending between Denmark and Sweden and they 
 wished to avoid the scene, perhaps the levies. They 
 therefore in the spring of 1675 made another migration and 
 their final one, to Wiewerd in Friesland. 
 
 Among those who, like Anna Maria Van Schurman, 
 had followed the fortunes of de Labadie from Amsterdam, 
 were three ladies of gentle birth, sisters, who had resided 
 at the Hague, and had abandoned ease and affluence as 
 well as rank and position in society, in order " to be of 
 those who should sit down with him in a separation from 
 the vain and dead worships of this world." " We are a 
 family," said one of them to "William Penn, on his visit to 
 Wiewerd, " that live together in love — of one soul and one 
 spirit, entirely given up to serve the Lord." They were 
 the daughters of Cornelis van Aarssens, Lord of Sommels- 
 dyk, who was considered the richest man in all Holland ; 
 and sisters of Cornelis van Aarssens, his son, also Lord of 
 Sommelsdyk, who was governor of Surinam, and was 
 killed in a mutiny of the soldiers there in 1688. Their 
 mother was Lucia van Walta, through whom they inherited 
 from their grandfather the castle called Thetinga-State, or 
 
xxv iii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Walta House, at Wiewerd. This property was appro- 
 priated by these ladies to the use of the Labadists, who 
 there, amid its groves, were more completely separated 
 from the world than they had ever been before. 1 The 
 synod of Friesland, not forgetful of their past history, 
 applied to the estates of that province for an investigation 
 into their doctrines. That body committed the inquiry to 
 Witsius, a learned professor in the University at Franeker, 
 who made report that their creed was in conformity with 
 the tenets of the reformed church. They were, therefore, 
 permitted to exercise the privileges of that church in the per- 
 formance of the marriage ceremony, the ringing of bells for 
 public service, and other acts of ecclesiastical authority. They 
 now, at last, enjoyed repose from persecution ; and, though 
 frequently threatened, they were never afterwards disturbed 
 by the civil power. It happened, too, that their return to 
 the Netherlands was signalized by a great accession to 
 the community. Persons flocked from all the provinces 
 and from Germany, seeking membership among them ; 
 many ministers left their positions in the reformed church, 
 Peter Dittelbach, who afterwards wrote the account of 
 the decline and fall of the Labadist3, being of the number. 
 They were a great household, of which Yvon was the 
 father, Anna Maria van Schurman was the mother, and 
 the others were brothers and sisters, subdivided into 
 teachers or speaking brothers, choristers, overseers, waiters 
 on the table, and the like. Some attended to the sick, 
 
 1 Thetinga-State was, at that time, surrounded by trees ; and the place 
 was afterwards familiarly called the Labadists' woods, and the Labadists 
 were styled the people of the woods — bosch-lkden. 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxi x 
 
 others superintended the clothing, or the provisions, or the 
 education of the children, or labored on the farm. But, 
 after all, the means of sustaining so large a body of persons 
 were not certain. The addition of poor ministers and poor 
 men brought no capital to the common stock ; and their 
 labor was not sufficient to supply all their physical wants, 
 simple as they were. To provide for the deficiency, as 
 well as to secure a safe retreat for the society and extend 
 the boundaries of the church, the community, shortly after 
 their removal to Wiewerd, resolved upon colonization in 
 America. They set their eyes upon Surinam, which had 
 just been surrendered by the English to the Dutch, by the 
 treaty of Breda, in 1667, as a compensation for the sur- 
 render of New York to the English. The new "West India 
 company had become the proprietors of the recently ceded 
 territory, and after reserving one-third to themselves, dis- 
 posed of the other two-thirds, one to the city of Amsterdam, 
 and the other to Cornells Van Aarssens van Sommelsdyk, 
 brother of the three sisters before mentioned, who had 
 been appointed governor, and was residing here. The 
 country being the only place in America under Dutch 
 jurisdiction, it was deemed the most eligible for a colony, 
 and measures were accordingly taken to establish one 
 there. The colonists left Wiewerd in high hopes and with 
 high encomiums. They were designated as the founders 
 of the great work of God in America. Lucia van 
 Aarssens, the youngest of the Sommelsdyks, seizing hold 
 of the hand of Dittelbach in rapture, exclaimed, " The 
 Lord calls us to great things, and gives us, also, great 
 hearts for their accomplishment." The colonists reached 
 
XXX 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Surinam in safety. The deep green foliage and exuberant 
 fertility of the soil induced them to pronounce it at once 
 another Eden. They sent most favorable reports accord- 
 ingly back to Wiewerd. They had laid the foundations 
 of a town called Providence, and now required more 
 settlers. A second company followed, under the direction 
 of Jaspar Dankers, the writer of the following journal. 
 They were, however, unfortunate ; the ship in which they 
 embarked was taken by the pirates ; who, after robbing 
 them of all their stock, permitted them to proceed. They 
 arrived at Surinam, only to cause sore disappointment to 
 the colonists, who had expected to receive, and not to 
 give succor. The truth now came out ; the selection of 
 Surinam was really most unfortunate. The country was 
 subject to deadly malarias, which clearing the land only 
 would mitigate. It was covered with heavy timber of the 
 hardest wood; which, once cut down, the growth was 
 so rank that in four or five years it was all covered again. 
 It produced sugar abundantly, by means of slave labor, 
 and that was all. The necessaries of life had to be im- 
 ported, save the roots of which, after the Indian mode, 
 they made their bread. The first settlers soon sickened, 
 and many of them died, and to those who survived, the 
 residence was intolerable. They were not only harrassed 
 by the mosquitoes and other poisonous insects, but " the 
 snakes crept through the houses as the mice did in 
 Holland." The colony was a complete failure in every 
 respect, and was soon abandoned. 
 
 The former Dutch dependency of New Xetherland, 
 although surrendered to the English, presented a better pro- 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxxi 
 
 mise for carrying out the plan. It would have been preferred 
 in the first instance had it not been for several reasons : 
 first, because vessels sailing thither from Holland were 
 compelled to stop in England on their voyage, for the pur- 
 pose of paying duties; secondly, the trade in tobacco, 
 which was the principal staple of commerce, was objec- 
 tionable, as the use of that article was prohibited in the 
 community ; a third reason was that Andros, the governor, 
 was a papist. The necessity of the case, however, now 
 overcame these objections. In order that a proper situation 
 might be secured, Jaspar Dankers who had conducted the 
 second company to Surinam, and Peter Sluyter who was 
 one of the ablest members of the community, were sent, as 
 a measure of precaution, on a tour of observation through 
 New York and the adjoining colonies, as detailed in the 
 journal. Sluyter, or more properly Schluter, was from 
 "Wesel in Germany, and with his brother Hendrik and 
 sister Elizabeth joined the Labadists at Amsterdam. The 
 two brothers, theologically educated, occupied prominent 
 positions in the society. Hendrik, however, became dis- 
 gusted with the practices at Altona and left it. The two 
 travelers after visiting the settlements in the colonies of 
 New York and New Jersey, along the Delaware and as 
 far as the Chesapeake, were most pleased with a tract of 
 land called Bohemia Manor, situated at the junction of the 
 Elk river and Bohemia river at the head of Chesapeake bay 
 and lying mostly in the present state of Maryland, but partly 
 in the state of Delaware. A patent for this land, embracing 
 nominally four thousand acres, but, in fact, upwards of 
 twenty thousand, had been issued in 1660 by the proprie- 
 
xxxii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 tary of Maryland to Augustine Hermans or Heermans, a 
 Bohemian by birth and a surveyor by profession, who had 
 formerly lived among the Dutch at New Amsterdam and 
 obtained some distinction there, as a compensation for his 
 services in preparing for Lord Baltimore a map of the 
 country. The grant also conferred manorial privileges 
 and rights upon Hermans and bis heirs and assigns. 1 
 Sluyter and Dankers returned to Friesland and made a 
 favorable report to the community at Wiewerd on the sub- 
 ject. They were again dispatched to New York for the 
 purpose of establishing the colony. They left Wiewerd 
 accordingly on the 12th of April, 1683, embarking at 
 Amsterdam in the ship New York, Captain Rich, and 
 arriving at the city of New York on the 27th of July 
 following. 
 
 In the course of their former visit Sluyter and Dankers 
 had been assiduous in making converts to the faith and had 
 been in some measure successful. 2 Among those who 
 
 1 A confirmatory patent made in 16C2, is in the records of the Land 
 Office in Maryland in Liber G. B., No. 3, fol. 15, 10. 
 
 2 Rev. Henricus Selyns, the minister of the Dutch church in New York, 
 writing from that city under date of 28th of October, 1682, to the classis 
 of Amsterdam, mentions the fact that there were some Labadists at that 
 time in New York, who attended his morning and evening preaching on 
 the Sabbath, and in the afternoon assembled by themselves. Domine 
 Selyns arrived in New York in the summer of that year, but Sluyter and 
 Dankers had before his arrival returned to Holland, and were in Fatherland 
 at the time of his letter; which proves that Sluyter and Dankers had 
 succeeded in securing converts in New York, during their first visit to 
 this country, independently of what is shown to that effect by their own 
 journal. When they returned to New York in 1683, they attended Selyns's 
 preaching with the others, but he exposed in a letter to William a Brakel 
 both their purposes and their true names.— Anthology of New Netherland, 
 92-6. As to the existence of the Labadists in New York in 1692 as a 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxxiii 
 
 became impressed with their views was Ephraim Hermans, 
 the oldest son of Augustine Hermans, and to whom and his 
 issue Bohemia Manor was by the will of his father to be 
 entailed. He was clerk of the courts on the Delaware and 
 had become acquainted with the two Labadists while he 
 was at New York for the purpose of consummating his 
 marriage. He had promised them before they left New 
 York to return home, that if they would come back again 
 and establish their church in this country they should not 
 foil for want of land, as Bohemia Manor should not with 
 his consent be applied to any other purpose. It was there- 
 fore through his son's instrumentality that Augustine 
 Hermans agreed to convey a large portion of his manor to 
 Sluyter, Dankers and others, promising himself by this 
 measure the building up immediately of a large com- 
 munity adjoining his domain. The names of the other 
 parties were John Moll of New Castle, a judge of the courts 
 on the Delaware ; Arnoldus de la Grange, a trader to that 
 river, and Peter Bayard, a hatter of New York, son of 
 Annake Bayard, the sister of Governor Stuyvesant. Augus- 
 tine Hermans, however, repented of his bargain, before 
 executing the deed, apprehending no doubt the names were 
 used as a device to secure his conveyance, and refused to 
 fulfill the contract, until he was compelled to do so by the 
 court. 1 
 
 distinct sect, see also extracts from the Memoirs of M. Lamothe- 
 Cadillac, in iV. Y. Documentary History, II, 559. They are there called 
 Abadiens. 
 
 1 The final deed of conveyance was executed by Augustine Hermans on 
 the 11th of August 1G84, to Peter Sluyter alias Vorsman, Jasper 
 Danckaerts alias Schilders, of Friesland, Petrus Bayard of New York, 
 E 
 
xxxiv 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Secure in the possession of this large tract of land, 
 Sluyter and .Dankers took immediate measures to provide 
 shelter for the colonists, and to establish the community. 
 A company of men and women came from Wiewerd, 
 including in it several families. A few persons residing in 
 New York also removed thither. Ephraim Hermans, 
 abandoning his young wife and bright worldly prospects, 
 submitted to this secluded life. 1 Sluyter sent to Friesland 
 for his wife, who came over and was installed a kind of 
 abbess over the female portion of the establishment. Two 
 of his brothers also came. Thus really was formed not only 
 
 and John Moll and Arnoldus de la Grange of Delaware, in company. 
 The land conveyed embraced four necks, bounded on the west by Long 
 creek, north by the great cart road, leading to Reedy island in the 
 Delaware, east by Hie Appoquinimink path leading from the great cart 
 road to the head of Bohemia river, and south by Bohemia river. This 
 piece of land was afterwards known as the Labadie tract and contained 
 3,750 acres. Moll and de la Grange immediately released their interest in 
 the land to Sluyter and Dankers, which indicates that they had allowed 
 their names to be used for the purpose of deceiving Augustine Hermans. 
 Bayard held on till 1088, when he also assigned his interest to the same 
 parties. Finally the whole title was concentrated in Peter Sluyter by a 
 conveyance from Dankers to him in 1093, executed in Holland whither 
 Dankers had then returned. Sluyter and Dankers were naturalized by 
 act of assembly of Maryland, together with Peter Bayard and Arnoldus 
 de la Grange on 20th Sep., 1084. — Bacon, sub anno 1084. Dankers is called 
 Dauntrees, and Sluyter, Slayter, in the act. 
 
 1 Not only did Ephraim Hermans forsake his family to join the Labadists, 
 but Peter Bayard did the same, leaving bis wife in New York. Ephraim 
 Hermans soon repented of bis folly and returned to his wife, but in less 
 than two years was taken suddenly sick, became crazy, and died, fulfilling 
 by his untimely end, the malediction of his father who, as it was said, pro- 
 nounced the curse upon him that he might not live two years after uniting 
 himself with the sect. Augustine Hermans died in 1080, leaving a will in 
 which he speaks in emphatic terms of condemnation of the connection 
 of his son with the Labadists. 
 
 * 
 
INTRODUCTION. XXXV 
 
 a new colony in America, but the daughter church, doehter 
 gemeente, as they themselves were pleased to style it, of the 
 Labadists of Walta House, of which Peter Sluyter declared 
 himself the bishop under Yvon, archbishop at Wiewerd. 
 Sluyter was now both sole proprietor of the land and sole 
 director of the church. He seems to have exercised the 
 severest discipline over the members — the tueht kinder en or 
 novices. He at the same time carried on a brisk trade in 
 the planting of tobacco and in employing and selling slaves. 
 In fact he was absolute lord and master. The position was 
 desirable for a man of less pretensions to separation from the 
 things of this world, than a Labadist with his penances. 
 "When Straach, a leading brother at Wiewerd, died, Yvon 
 sent for Sluyter to come to Walta and take his place. 
 Sluyter refused, reasoning with Yvon according to the logic 
 of their religion : what God has once willed he will not 
 recall, and God having, according to their comprehension, 
 manifested his will that his children should live here, they 
 could not consistently with his will leave the country. 
 
 The members belonging to this community did not at 
 any time exceed an hundred, men, women and children, 
 which appears to have been the number shortly after its 
 commencement, and also fifteen years later. Two con- 
 temporaneous accounts of it have come down to us in 
 print, one of which affords an interior view of the 
 establishment, exposing its management and discipline, 
 and the other an external picture, such as it appeared to 
 an outside observer. The first is from no friendly hand. 
 Petrus Dittelbach, before mentioned, was at Wiewerd at 
 the time of the sending out of the colony, and for some 
 
xxxvi 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 time after it was organized. He, however, abjured La- 
 badism afterwards, on account of its baleful doctrines in 
 regard to marriage, and wrote a work exposing the 
 character of the sect in that respect more particularly. 1 As 
 he had been one of their number, and understood their 
 sentiments thoroughly, he could speak more boldly. He 
 says : 
 
 "A friend of mine, arriving from Sluyter's community, 
 in New Xetherland, lias made many revelations to me in 
 regard to their doctrine of marriage; for it appears that 
 there they go to work more boldly when necessity requires 
 it, than in this country, where they proceed more pru- 
 dently. He went there with a full surrender of himself, 
 family, goods and effects. His penitence, Sluyter wrote, 
 was unusual. The letter was read to us at Wiewerd, and 
 we rejoiced exceedingly over his conversion ; but now, 
 since he has left them, they charge and blacken him with 
 sin. He was compelled to submit not only to the mortifi- 
 cations imposed by Sluyter, but also to those imposed by 
 Sluyter's wife, who had shortly previous arrived from 
 Wiewerd, and took a little hand in mortifying. What 
 they thought of at night had to be done some how or other 
 during the da\. Indeed, they made it so sharp, that a 
 brother, who had been sent over from Wiewerd, would 
 stay with them no longer, and returned to Wiewerd, where 
 
 " Verval en Val der Labadisten of derselver leydinge en wyse van doen 
 in haare huys-boudinge, en kerk-formering als ook haren op-en nedergang 
 in hare colonien of volk-plantingen, nader ontdekt, voornamelik derselver 
 leere en leydinge omtrent net Christelyk kuwelik uitgehalt en tegenge- 
 sproken alles in 3 brieven. Door Petrus Dittelbach." Sm. 4to, Amst., 
 1692. 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxxvii 
 
 also he was humiliated. This abasing cannot continue a 
 long time among those people. My friend's wife had five 
 small children, whom she brought with her to this new 
 cloister discipline. Whenever she kissed one of them she 
 was rebuked for showing so naturally her fleshly cleaving. 
 They threatened to chill the mother, who had brought 
 some small tubs of butter there, and put syrup on their 
 bread, and to sell their negress slave, whom they had 
 brought with them, because she took a small pot of beer 
 and bread, without the knowledge of the abbess, to her 
 sick master, who, however, did not partake of them. I 
 could tolerate at Wiewerd, in some measure, that there 
 should be no fire made in the cells, although it is cold there 
 in the winter, because turf is dear, and so many families 
 could not be supplied unless at great expense ; but this 
 friend told me Sluyter would not allow them to have any 
 fire, in order to harden them and to mortify and subdue 
 the sins of the body, while there was so much wood there 
 that they were obliged to burn it in the fields to get it out 
 of the way; but Sluyter had his own hearth well provided 
 night and day. My friend had never suffered more cold 
 and hardship than among those people, and he frequently 
 made a fire in the woods in order to warm himself. His 
 wife had no mind to remain in this cloister life under such 
 an abbess, who censured her at the time she had a child 
 nursing at her breast, because she drank too much at the 
 table ; and when afterward she drank less, because she left off 
 too soon. As they saw these things did not please his wife, 
 they began to talk to him somewhat more plainly and freely 
 concerning marriage, arguing that hell was fall of ordinary 
 
xxxviii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 marriages, saying, among others, these ahominahle words : 
 It was for God alone to judge whether he cohabited with a harlot 
 or with his viife. The wife, fearful lest they would take 
 her husband away from her, of which there had been at 
 that place more than one instance, sought every oppor- 
 tunity to speak with her husband privately, and to exhort 
 him to steadfastness, as she had come away with him from 
 Amsterdam, and was there in a strange land with her little 
 children. They had succeeded, however, with him so far, 
 that he began to keep himself away from her. His wife, 
 being very angry about it, the abbess jeeringly asked her 
 if she could not be one night without her husband ? The 
 husband finally began to attack their doctrine about 
 marriage out of the Scriptures, showing that the apostles 
 had not taught so. He asked Sluyter what marriage he 
 came of? Whether his parents were not married in the 
 ordinary way ? They began to wonder at this man's 
 opposing them out of the Scriptures, until, finally, he told 
 them roundly that all connection between him and them 
 was severed. They were confounded, and went at him 
 another way, saying, we have several times spoken about 
 marriage, which is a delicate subject, but we must also say 
 to you that when there are any who cannot conduct them- 
 selves in that way in their marriage relation, we still tole- 
 rate them. But how tolerate, as a brother ? ~No ; but 
 only as regards community of goods and living together. 
 This was a new trick to get him in ; but they had already 
 blabbed too much, and he had heard too much. They did 
 not look favorably upon his going back to Holland, and 
 attempted to frighten him from it, asking him if he were 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxxix 
 
 not afraid to trust himself on the sea, and fall from one pit 
 into another ? But he persevered, and the Lord helped 
 him and his, in an especial manner, to reach the Fatherland 
 in safety. 
 
 " We learn also from this friend how the colony has run 
 down and is detested by the people of the country, so that 
 Sluyter can do nothing there for the furtherance of the 
 work which they call the Lord's. But as regards himself 
 he has good times there with his wife, and the question 
 which he once proposed to this friend, whether he did not 
 see that these people did not fare badly? shows clearly 
 enough that he has good things there. But in the mean- 
 while what is done for the Lord ? Or is it no great matter 
 that he has taken one Bayard, an innocent man, whom we 
 have seen here, away from his wife who is now living in New 
 York. It is wonderful how Sluyter can be easy when he 
 reflects upon the manner in which the Lord has dealt with 
 one of his novices, whom also he had enticed away from 
 his wife, but finally permitted to go back to her, supposing 
 they had him sufficiently confirmed in the marriage disci- 
 pline. They regarded him as one who listened to them, 
 and he went everywhere in their meetings. He began to 
 cry out to his wife, ' 0 God, I can live no longer, I can live 
 no longer ; wherever I go Satan pursues me !' 'I have told 
 you that all the time,' answered his wife ; ' why have you 
 allowed yourself to be so deluded by these men ? ' He 
 went one day to Sluyter's exercises, and found a horse of 
 one of the neighbors loose in the woods, which he took 
 along with him for the purpose of delivering up to the 
 owner. The horse pleasing Sluyter, he caused it to be 
 
xl INTRODUCTION. 
 
 tied in order to have it ridden after the worship was over 
 in order to see whether he could exchange one of theirs 
 for it. They put the man on its back, but in galloping 
 along he struck his head against a tree in turning too 
 shortly a corner of the road, and fell dead to the ground. 
 They had good hopes of him, however, they said, because 
 he had remained firm in the way of the Lord ; but for 
 Ephraim Hermans, who had obtained the land from his 
 lather and secured it to them, they had not much hope." 1 
 
 The doctrine of marriage of the Labadists to which we 
 have before alluded, and out of which these practices grew, 
 was, as expressed by themselves, simply this : that both 
 parties must be born again, because otherwise, the marriage 
 was not holy, and a believer must not put on the yoke with 
 an unbeliever ; therefore it was right for them to separate 
 if they were not both endued with grace. They, however, 
 might live together if both were not so endued, but the 
 believer must love Christ more than his worldly spouse ; 
 for whoever loved father or mother, wife or husband more 
 than Christ, was not worthy of him. It seems also that no 
 person could be admitted into full membership as a brother 
 or sister at Bohemia Manor, unless upon the direction of 
 the father at Wiewerd, and for that purpose the proofs of 
 true conversion were sent to him for such direction. Most 
 of the persons attracted to the community under Sluyter 
 were novices, or probationists, who were undergoing the 
 discipline and mortifications which were necessary to 
 prove their faith. 
 
 The other account of the colony before alluded to, gives 
 
 1 Yercalen Vol., 75-7. , 
 
INTRODUCTION. xli 
 
 us a glimpse merely of their manner of living. It was 
 written by Samuel Bownas, the quaker preacher, who 
 visited Bohemia Manor in 1702. He thus briefly de- 
 scribes his visit, after leaving Chester in Maryland : 
 
 " After we had dined we took our leave, and a friend, 
 my guide, went with me, and brought me to a people 
 called Labaclies, where we were civilly entertained in their 
 way. When supper came in, it was placed upon a long 
 table in a large room, where, when all things were ready, 
 came in at a call, twenty men or upwards, but no women. 
 We all sat down, they placing me and my companion near 
 the head of the table, and having passed a short space, one 
 pulled off his hat, but not the rest, till a short space after, 
 and then one after another they pulled all their hats oft", 
 and in that uncovered posture sat silent, uttering no words 
 that we could hear, near half a quarter of an hour ; and as 
 they did not uncover at once, so neither did they cover 
 themselves again at once ; but as they put on their hats, 
 fell to eating, not regarding those who were still uncovered, 
 so that- it might be ten minutes' time or more, between 
 the first and last putting on of their hats. I afterwards 
 queried with my companion, concerning the reason of their 
 conduct, and he gave for answer, that they held it unlawful 
 to pray till they felt some inward motion for the same ; 
 and that secret prayer was more acceptable than to utter 
 words; and that it was most proper for every one to pray, 
 as moved thereto by the spirit in their own minds. 
 
 " I likewise queried if they had no women' amongst 
 
 them? He told me they had, but the women eat by 
 
 themselves, and the men by themselves, having all things 
 p 
 
x lii INTRODUCTION, 
 
 in common respecting their household affairs, so that none 
 could claim any more right than another to any part of 
 their stock, whether in trade or hushandry; and if any 
 had a mind to join with them, whether rich or poor, they 
 must put what they had in the common stock, and after- 
 wards if they had a mind to leave the society, they must 
 likewise leave what they brought, and go out empty 
 handed. 
 
 " They frequently expounded the scriptures among 
 themselves, and being a very large family, in all upwards 
 of an hundred men, women and children, carried on 
 something of the manufactory of linen, and had a large 
 plantation of corn, tobacco, flax and hemp, together with 
 cattle of several kinds." 1 
 
 The colonists conformed in most respects to the mode of 
 living adopted at Wiewerd. They slept in the same or 
 adjoining buildings, but in different rooms which were not 
 accessible to each other ; but were ever open to the father, 
 or such as he appointed for the purpose of instruction or 
 examination. Their meals were eaten in silence, and it is 
 related that persons often eat together, at the same table, 
 for months, at Wiewerd, without knowing each others' 
 names. They worked at different employments in the 
 house, or on the land, or at trades, and were distributed 
 for that purpose by the head of the establishment. Their 
 dress was plain and simple, eschewing all fashions of the 
 world. Gold and silver ornaments, jewelry, pictures, 
 
 i " An account of the life, travels and Christian experiences in the work 
 of the ministry of Samuel Bownas." 8vo, London, 1756, p. 5&-9. 
 
INTRODUCTION. xliii 
 
 hangings, carpets, lace and other fancy work were 
 prohibited, and if any of the members had previously 
 worked at such trades, they had to abandon them. They 
 worked for the Lord, and not for themselves. The product 
 of their labor was not to satisfy their lusts and desires, but 
 like the air, simply for their physical existence, and hence 
 all their goods and productions should be as free and 
 common as the air they breathed. 
 
 They were to live concealed in Christ. All the desires 
 or aversions of the flesh were, therefore, to be mortified, 
 or conquered. These mortifications were to be undergone 
 willingly. A former minister might be seen standing at 
 the wash-tub, or a young man of good extraction might be 
 drawing stone or tending cattle. If any one had a repug- 
 nance to particular food, he must eat it, nevertheless. 
 They must make confession of their sinful thoughts in 
 open meeting. Those who were disobedient were pun- 
 ished by a reduction of clothing, or being placed lower 
 down the table, or final exclusion from the society. There 
 were different classes among the members, which were to 
 be successively attained by probation, in conforming to the 
 rules of the establishment, and the final position of brother 
 obtained by entire severance from the world. 
 
 Sluyter departed from the principles of the society, es- 
 sentially in cultivating tobacco and in dealing in slaves. It 
 was charged against him particularly that he was extremely 
 cruel towards his slaves. 
 
 While Sluyter was building up the colony at Bohemia 
 Manor, the seeds of dissolution were developing themselves 
 in the mother church at Wiewerd. The residence of the 
 
xl i v INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Labadists at Walta could, of necessity, be only temporary, 
 that is, during the lives of the sisters Sommclsdyk. When 
 they should die, the estate would devolve upon other 
 members of their family. In the meantime, the number of 
 children in the community was increasing, and nothing 
 was being added to the common fund. In 1688, some of 
 them, particularly Henry van Deventer, an esteemed 
 preacher at Wiewerd, began to agitate the division of the 
 common property, and giving each his own, in order that 
 such of them as chose might go out again into the world 
 for the purpose of providing for their families. Nature 
 thus began again to assume her proper sway, and the arti- 
 ficial bonds in which she had been bound began to give 
 way. Godly reasons were not wanting to justify the pro- 
 posed change. It was the will of the Lord that they 
 should remain together no longer, but should separate and 
 go abroad into the world, and disseminate their doctrines. 
 The church of Jerusalem had been scattered over the 
 earth, and so must theirs be; and, like its members, they 
 must go everywhere, and build up the house of God. The 
 resolution to divide the property was accordingly taken, 
 and carried into effect. The poor and moneyless of the 
 community left the establishment, while those who were 
 able to do so remained at Wiewerd, using their portion of 
 the property to pension out their lives. Yvon, and Thomas 
 Servaasz, who succeeded him as father on his death, and 
 some others of the leaders, staid behind. On the other 
 hand, there were no additions to the community, and it 
 now became only a question as to the duration of the 
 lives of the sisters Sommelsdyk to determine when 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlv 
 
 the whole congregation would be separated ; and so it 
 happened. 1 
 
 The partition of property does not seem to have been 
 immediately followed by the colony at Bohemia Manor. 
 It had not taken place, according to Bownas, fourteen years 
 after it had been made at Wiewerd. Yet in 1698, a kind 
 of division was made of the land, for in July, in that year, 
 Sluyter, who, as we have seen, had become sole proprietor 
 of the entire lands, conveyed three of the necks to Herman 
 van Barkelo, Nicholas de la Montaigne, Peter de Koning, 
 Derick Kolchman, John Moll, Junior, Henclrick Sluyter 
 and Samuel Bayard. It is readily discoverable from these 
 names that they were members of the community. Sluyter 
 retained one of the necks himself, and became a wealthy 
 man in his own right. He died in 1722, after his wife, 
 leaving by will all his estate, the plantation and land belong- 
 
 1 Anna Maria van Sclmrman died in 1678. Tvon survived her nearly 
 thirty years, till 1707, when he was succeeded by Servaasz. The 
 last of the three sisters Sommelsdyk passed away about 1725, when 
 Thetinga-State reverted to Count Maurice, of Nassau, son of Isabella, 
 their elder sister, not a Labadist, spouse of Hendrick, Count of Nassau. 
 From him, it passed to Baron Ailva, who died in 1733, and whose heirs 
 allowed the building to go to entire decay. We, ourselves, visited 
 Wiewerd in 1861, and found hardly a vestige of the Labadists remaining 
 there. The church in which they worshiped was still standing, but not 
 a stone marked the site of Thetinga-State, although it was pointed out to 
 us as preserved by tradition. In a vault under the church are eleven 
 bodies, which have been for generations marvellously preserved from 
 decay, through some unexplained natural cause, atmospherical or other- 
 wise. The coffins were opened, and the bodies exhibited to us, and stiff 
 and light, lifted out on their feet. One of them thus exhibited, the old school- 
 master who had the graafkclcler in charge, said was that of Anna Maria van 
 Sclmrman. But that could not have been so. Wiewerd now contains less 
 than 200 inhabitants, mostly boors, living in small cottages, and does not 
 afford even a residence for a minister. Its religious interests are attended to 
 by a neighboring clergyman, who preaches in the church at stated intervals. 
 
xlvi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ing to it, negroes, horses, cattle, household stuff, and what 
 had been belonging to his apothecary shop and chemistry, 
 to his son-in-law, Petrus Bouchell, subject to certain legacies, 
 and bequeathing to his brother, Johannes Sluyter, his 
 papers and books, and to his cousin, Henry Hluyter, his 
 watch. He makes no mention of any son, and he, therefore, 
 probably has no descendant of his name living. We 
 gather from his will that he died in the "faith in which he 
 had lived, and, obscurely, that he left some of the believers 
 behind him still living. " And for my body," he says, " 1 leave 
 it to be buried after our own humble way, in the garden of the 
 so-called Great House, where several of my brethren and 
 sisters in Christ Jesus are expecting the general resurrection 
 of the dead and eternal life of the soul and body, in the 
 everlasting communion with God and all his saints, through 
 Jesus Christ, our gracious Lord, Saviour, king-head, and 
 all what can be wished and expected." 1 The Labadists 
 were certainly all scattered and gone, and nothing of them 
 remained as a religious community on Bohemia Manor 
 five years after his death. 2 
 
 And thus both in Friesland and Maryland the mother- 
 church and daughter-church expired about the same time. 
 The sincerity of the founder of Labadism and of his 
 followers may be conceded, the charges made against 
 
 1 This will is signed Peter Sluyter, alias Vorsman. 
 
 2 Bownas, 59. Johannes Sluyter and Henry Sluyter, who survived him, 
 were probably the last of the sect who resided there, and with them, there- 
 fore, passed away the last disciples of de Labadie in America. They were 
 both dead in 1736, as we learn from the proceedings on the admission of 
 the will of Peter Sluyter, to probate a second time. This will is recorded 
 in the office of the Registrar of Wills, at Annapolis. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlvii 
 
 their lives may be admitted to be the inventions of 
 malicious minds, conceived from what might have been, 
 rather than from what were the abuses of the system, yet 
 the doctrines which they preached, and the discipline 
 which they practiced, were repugnant to the wise purposes 
 of the Creator in placing man upon earth. They were 
 the refinements of a subtle mind, following the idea that 
 the world had reached the last condition of the church, 
 before the coming of Christ. Maintained with great 
 success by the eloquence and zeal of de Labadie, and the 
 marked ability of Yvon, his successor, they failed when 
 these supports were withdrawn, showing it was their 
 personal influence, rather than its adaptation to the 
 spiritual wants of man, that constituted the strength of 
 Labadism. Like a ship without a pilot, it soon drifted 
 upon the rocks, went to pieces and disappeared. 1 
 
 1 The principal authorities which we have consulted are : Historisch , 
 Verhael Nopende der Labadisten Scheuringli. Door Jacobus Koelman. 
 Amsterdam, 1683. Verval en val der Labadisten, &c, Door Petrus 
 Dittelbach. Amsterdam, 1692. Nouveau Dictioimaire Historique. Par 
 Jacques George de Chaufepie. Amsterdam, 1753. Vaderlandsch Woorden- 
 boek. Door Jacobus Kok. Amsterdam 1794. Geschiedenis der Nederlandsche 
 Hervormde Kerk. Door A. Ypey and J. J. Dermout. Breda, 1824. De 
 Labadie en de Labadisten. Door H. Van Berkum. Sneek, 1851. Anna 
 Maria van Schurman. Door G. D. J. Schotel. 's Hertogenbosch, 1853. 
 We have not spoken of the Mennonists, a sect occasionally referred to in 
 the journal, as they owe their origin to a period just anterior to the Dutch 
 reformed. It may, however, be stated that their founder, Menno Simonis, 
 embraced the leading doctrines of the Anabaptists, especially in holding 
 that infants were not the proper subjects of baptism, Christ's second 
 coming on earth, and a rigid habit of living ; but he opposed the attempt 
 they made at Munster and other places to abolish civil government by 
 force, though adhering to the doctrine that no magistrate should be 
 admitted into the church. This sect differs little at the present time in 
 their religious views from the Baptists of our own country. The Mennon- 
 ists attempted a settlement on the Delaware in 1622, (post p. 220-1, note). 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 or our 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW NETHERLAND 
 
 BEGUN IN THE 
 
 NAME OF THE LORD AND FOR HIS GLORY, THE 8TH OF JUNE, 1679, 
 
 AND UNDERTAKEN 
 
 In the small Flute-ship, called the Charles, of ichich Thomas Singleton was 
 Master; but the superior Authority over both Ship and Cargo was 
 in Margaret Filipse, who was the Owner of both, and with 
 whom ice agreed for our Passage from Amsterdam to 
 ISfm York, in New Netherland, at seventy-five 
 Guilders for each Person, payable in Holland. 
 Our Names were registered, that of 
 my Friend as P. Vorstman,and 
 my own as J. Schilders. 
 
 1 
 
VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 On the eighth of June, 1679, we left home 1 at four o'clock 
 in the morning, taking leave of those with whom God had 
 joined us fast in spirit, they committiug us, and we them, 
 with tenderness of heart, unto the gracious protection 
 of the Highest. Although, for a time, separated in body, 
 we remained most closely united in soul, which is, al- 
 ways and everywhere, one and the same. We went on 
 foot to Oost[erend], expecting there to take the canal boat, 
 which we did, at six or half past six o'clock, after waiting 
 an hour. We took leave finally of those of our beloved 
 and very worthy friends who had accompanied us, and thus 
 far made it a pleasant journey for us. Our hearts had been 
 strengthened in discoursing, on the road, of God and his 
 will concerning us, and of the disposition and readiness of 
 our hearts, as we then felt, to endure whatever might hap- 
 pen, although we foresaw there would be enough to mortify 
 us. We arrived at B[olsward] about eight o'clock, where 
 we discovered the reason why there were so few people 
 in the boat and tavern. The ringing of the bells announced 
 it was a holiday, namely, Ascension day, which suited us 
 very well, as we thus had an opportunity of being alone in 
 the tavern, and eating out of our knapsack a little breakfast, 
 while waiting for the treckschuit to leave. We were pleased, 
 while we were in the tavern, to see some persons come in, 
 on behalf of the schout, who was then on a visit to all 
 
 1 Thetinga-State, at Wiewerd, in Friesland. 
 
I 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 the inns in the city, looking after drunkards and other dis- 
 orderly persons liable to punishment. When the time 
 arrived, we stepped on hoard the canal boat, where we found 
 fow people: hut these passed the whole way in tattling, 
 principally about a certain miser who had died and cheated 
 his friends, leaving them to find more than they believed 
 could be found. As our own thoughts were otherwise 
 employed, this talk was very annoying to us. We reached 
 Wforkum] 1 before the hour fixed for departure from there. 
 Meanwhile, however, we went to the Amsterdam packet, 
 on board of which there were different kinds of people, 
 but all wicked. Among them was a family consisting of 
 father, mother and children, who even after the manner of 
 the world, were not spoken of much better. They had two 
 daughters of a very easy disposition. We had the good 
 fortune to have the cabin to ourselves, where we were perfectly 
 accommodated. We left Workum at twelve o'clock with 
 a strong head wind, but open sailing, so that it was six 
 o'clock before we passed Enkhuisen. We came to anchor 
 before Amsterdam about eleven o'clock at night. 
 
 9th, Friday. We stepped ashore early and went first to 
 look after our ship, the Charles, which we found lying in 
 the stream. There were some passengers already on board. 
 We inquired when they intended to sail. The mate, who 
 v like the captain, was a quaker, answered, " to-morrow," 
 that is, Saturday. We went immediately to the house to 
 which our chest had been directed, taking another with us. 
 We lodged there as long as we were at Amsterdam. The 
 proprietor made no objection to deliver us the chest which 
 
 1 Workum is the port, on the west shore of Friesland, where they took 
 the packet to cross the Zuider Zee to Amsterdam. The omission of the 
 name of the place of their departure, Wiewerd, and giving only the 
 initials of Oosterend, Bolsward and Workum, indicate some prudential 
 motive for concealment of their movements on the part of the travelers, 
 probably the same as induced them to give themselves fictitious names, to 
 prevent a discovery of the plans of the community, which might happen 
 in case their journal should be lost. 
 
AMSTERDAM, BUIKSLOOT. 
 
 5 
 
 had arrived before us, upon our showing what we brought. 
 This done, we went to Margaret's, 1 to whom we spoke of 
 ourselves, voyage and purpose, and who showed us some 
 attention. All this was accomplished before noon-time, 
 when we went to our lodgings to rest ourselves. The house 
 beiDg full of people the whole time, it was very difficult 
 for us, though we obtained abed room, to be tolerably alone 
 during the day ; but as the people who carried on this 
 business would have been willing to have much money spent, 
 and as it was not for us to do so, we went out a great deal 
 into different parts of the city, and returned there in the 
 evening, where we slept together. 
 
 10//', Saturday. We performed some errands, and also 
 spoke again to Margaret, inquiring of her when the ship 
 would leave. She answered she had given orders to have 
 everything in readiness to sail to-day, but she herself was 
 of opinion it would not be before Monday. We offered 
 her the money to pay for our passage, but she refused to 
 receive it at that time, saying she was tired and could not 
 be troubled with it that day. We had some conversation 
 with her, and she asked us if we were not such and such 
 persons, who lived at such a place, to which we generally 
 answered, yes. 
 
 In the afternoon we took on board our chest and what 
 we deemed necessary for the voyage, by means of an ordi- 
 nary row-boat. We reached the boom without the least 
 remark, as the officers of the customs were employed with 
 a lighter inspecting some wine of which they needs must 
 taste. We selected our berth, put our bed-clothes in it, 
 and requested the mate to keep the berth for us, which 
 was next to the large hatchway, according to Margaret's 
 orders. We then returned to our lodgings. 
 
 11th, Sunday. Not being able to do anything in the city, 
 
 1 Margaret Filipse. 
 
0 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 we determined to cross over the Y 1 to Buiksloot, where 
 we went to hear the preaching, which was wretched. It 
 was hy an old minister and according to the doctrines of 
 Voetius. His text was of the seed sown among thorns. 
 "We had hitherto eaten out of our provision hasket without 
 refreshment, and we therefore took the opportunity now to 
 refresh ourselves a little. "We went at noon to Nieuwendarn 
 and heard a sermon by a person who had recently settled 
 there. He gave a short exposition of his opinions, from 
 winch we clearly saw that he was a Cocceian ; and he seemed 
 zealous, hut not serious or earnest enough. "We recrossed 
 the river in the evening and went to our lodgings. 
 
 12//i, Monday. This whole day we were in expectation of 
 the ship's leaving, and therefore went out continually to 
 see about it ; but it was to no purpose. I went again to 
 incmire at the house of Margaret, hut could obtain no 
 assurance. Our lodging house was the while constantly 
 full of drunkards, and we did as well as we could to avoid 
 them. 
 
 lBthj Tuesday. The ship still lying in the stream s we 
 expected she would sail ; but no word coming from her at 
 the time, we went on board and found there more passen- 
 gers than before. We inquired again of the new mate 
 when they had determined to leave, but we could obtain no 
 information. The mates advised us to go to the Texel and 
 wait there for the ship, and this, for other reasons, we con- 
 cluded to do. I saw to-day a certain cooper who had visited 
 us several times at A[ltona] and who conversed very 
 familiarly chez la famine reforrne 1 , and I believe comes also to 
 the assembly of Mons. B. He looked at me, but made no 
 salutation, and passed along. This is the only one of my 
 accmaintauce whom I have seen at Amsterdam. 
 
 lAth, Wednesday. Having resolved to go to Texel to-day, 
 whether the ship left or not, we prepared ourselves for the 
 
 1 The river or inlet upon which Amsterdam is situated, is so called. 
 
THE ZUIDER ZEE. 
 
 7 
 
 journey. We took dinner with our host and paid him for 
 our lodging there. About seven o'clock we went in the 
 Texel barge, where we found many passengers, but it was 
 ten o'clock at night before we got off. After leaving the 
 piles we had a strong head wind, which gradually increased 
 to blow so hard that we could scarcely keep before it, fear- 
 ing otherwise to sail ashore. 
 
 loth, Thursday. We passed Enkuisen early in the morn- 
 ing, and had then to proceed against the wind with hard 
 weather. We kept tacking with great assiduity till about 
 midday, when the tide compelled us to stop, and we came 
 to anchor under the Vlieter. 1 The boat being full of 
 drinking people, there had been no rest the whole night. 
 My good friend [Sluyter, or Vorstman] was sea sick, 
 and particularly suffered from the tooth ache, but felt better 
 after taking a little of his usual medicine. The wind sub- 
 siding somewhat, and the tide having fallen, some of our 
 passengers were put on board a ship-of-war, which was 
 riding at anchor under the Vlieter, and then we pro- 
 ceeded on our course to Texel. Tacking until in the eve- 
 ning, as far as the Oude Schild, we came near being run 
 down, which happened in this way. There came a small 
 English ship in from sea, when an English galiot, lying 
 close in shore, weighed anchor and set sail in order to speak 
 to her. Coming down close before the wind, they were just 
 going to speak to the ship, when we lay on their bow in 
 order to wear about. They kept on their course taking no 
 notice of us, when we shouted and screamed out to them ; 
 but they did not hear us until we came close to them and 
 redoubled our cries, when they hauled off. It was a narrow 
 escape, as they were within two inches of being right upon 
 us ; but as there was a ship-of- war's boat on our vessel, we 
 were probably in no great danger of losing our lives, since 
 by means of that we could have saved ourselves. We landed 
 
 1 A shoal in the Zuider Zee, opposite the island of Wicringen. 
 
8 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YOKE. 
 
 at the Oudc Schild about half past nine in the evening, and 
 took lodgings at the Jfof van Vrieslantf one of the princi- 
 pal inns, although we had been recommended to the 
 Moriaens Jlooff. 2 but that did not suit us, because it was 
 mostly frequented by tipplers. Having taken something 
 to eat, we retired together to rest in a quiet little chamber 
 which they prepared for us. 
 
 lQth, Friday. My companion still suffering from the tooth 
 ache and also a pain in the stomach, remained in bed till 
 noon, when he found himself better. We dined witli our 
 landlord and then wrote a letter home, which we posted. 
 We were in momentary expectation of the arrival of our 
 ship, for which we were constantly on the look out; but as 
 it continued blowing hard with a contrary wind, we did 
 not discover any thing of her, and, by force, took this time 
 to recruit ourselves a little. 
 
 17/A, Saturday. Waited for our ship the whole day, but 
 saw nothing of her. 
 
 18^, Sunday. Went to hear preaching this morning at 
 Oude Schild by a very poor man, both in body and mind, 
 lie was crooked in face and feet, up and down, in and out; 
 but displeasing as he was to look at, he endeavored to 
 please eveiybody. His text was, " humble yourselves under 
 the mighty hand of God." We went in the afternoon to 
 the Burgh, the principal village on the island, walking 
 along the dunes and sea shore, where we were amused by 
 the running about of an incalculable number of rabbits. 
 We went along the outside of the strand, and had a view 
 of the breakers of the North sea, which were driven 
 against the shore by the northwest wind. In going around 
 the Burgh we came to a brewer, the only one, not only 
 in that place, but on the island. Wc drank of his beer, 
 which in our opinion was better than any we had found on 
 
 1 Court of Frieslaml. 
 
 2 Moor's Head. 
 
TEXEL. ON BOARD SHIP. 
 
 9 
 
 our journey. Being a Mennonist lie would gladly have 
 entertained us with pleasant conversation, hut admonished 
 of the time, we returned to our lodgings at Oude Schild. 
 
 19/A, Monday. We looked out again for our ship, going 
 along the dyke to Oostereind, a considerahle village, hut 
 we saw no signs of her. We therefore left the shore and 
 returned home inland, passing through another small 
 village, called Seelt. 
 
 20th, Tuesday. Perceiving nothing of our ship we hegan 
 to feel very anxious, for besides being at much expense for 
 our lodgings, we were sometimes compelled to eat with 
 very godless men. Our lodging house was the one most fre- 
 quented by the superior officers of the ships-of-war, of 
 which there were seven or eight lying there ready to con- 
 voy different fleets to various parts. 
 
 "We went in the afternoon to the Hoorn, quite a large 
 village west of the Oude Schild. "When we had passed 
 through it, we found ourselves near the dunes, over which 
 we crossed to the beacon, walking upon the shore to the 
 extreme point of the island, from whence we saw the Helder 
 before us on the other side, and between, the two mouths of 
 Texel's deep, observing how the lines agreed with the 
 beacons. Time running on, we returned to the Hoorn, 
 where we were compelled to drink once. The landlord of 
 the house was a papist, who quickly took us to be Roman 
 ecclesiastics, at which we laughed between us for his so 
 deceiving himself. He began to open his heart very freely, 
 ;n id would have told us all his secrets if we had asked him; 
 but we cut off the conversation, and answered his questions 
 with civility. When we reached home in the evening, we 
 saw some ships had arrived, and siupposed certainly one of 
 tlicni was ours; but, as it was dark, we were compelled to 
 wait till next morning. 
 
 21st, Wednesday. As soon as we had taken a little break- 
 fast we went along the dyke to Oostereind, near which the 
 9 
 
10 
 
 voyaoi-: to ni;\v york. 
 
 ships had come to anchor. As we approached the place, 
 we could no longer doubt ours was there, which we were 
 the first to discover. "We therefore hired a hoat immedi- 
 ately and went on hoard, when we not only found it was our 
 ship, hut that she was full and overladen. 8he was so full of 
 passengers of all kinds, and so -towed, thai we -aw no 
 chance of finding a place in which to sleep, and there were 
 scarcely any of our goods to he found. The berth, which 
 we had selected, had been taken by others, which there was 
 no use of resisting; but it caused us no regret, as we 
 thereby secured another near the cables, almost entirely out 
 of the way, and always removed from the greatest noise. 
 "We determined to go ashore and come back the next day ; 
 but after taking our dinner then' and paying our landlord, 
 we returned on board. When we came on the ship, they 
 began immediately to inquire of us about everything, and 
 we answered them discreetly and civilly. Among others 
 who thus made themselves conspicuous, was Jan, whom we 
 did not know, and whose deportment did not accord with 
 what we had imagined of him ; but we supposed he was 
 one of the passengers, and one of the best, and most slovenly, 
 lie asked my comrade if we were not of such a people, 
 expressly naming them, who answered him according 
 to his and our condition. After we had been on hoard 
 some time, seeing we obtained no place, I went myself to 
 look after one and observed where we could make a herth. 
 I spoke to the captain, who had the chests removed and a 
 berth arranged for us on the larboard side near the fore- 
 hatch ; hut as the cable was lying there so that it could not 
 be stretched out as long as it ought, and as there was room 
 enough, I took a little old rope and set to work to lengthen 
 it out, which I accomplished hefore evening, so that we 
 could sleep there that night. Certainly we had reason to 
 thank the Lord that he had given us a berth in a more 
 quiet place than we ourselves had chosen, which he had of 
 
SETTING SAIL. 
 
 11 
 
 his will allowed to be taken from us. His providence truly 
 extends over all things and his foolishness is wiser than the 
 wisdom of men, and sometimes even of his children. 
 
 22d, Thursday. We slept little during the night in con- 
 sequence of the clatter of so many godless and detestable 
 men, and the noise of children and others. "We had, how- 
 ever, to content ourselves. I went in search of our chest, 
 which was stowed away in the bow, but to no purpose, as 
 it was necessary to creep on hands and knees to get in 
 there. We remained in the hope it would come to light at 
 Falmouth. The ship was so low between decks, that sit- 
 ting on the chest we could not sit upright even between 
 the beams, for it was only about three feet high. But we 
 were here in the forecastle well content. 
 
 23rf, Friday. My comrade wrote a letter home. Our cap- 
 tain having caused the boat to be made ready in order to 
 go with his wife to another English ship, we requested per- 
 mission to accompany him ashore. He roundly refused us ; 
 and we had to wait for a boat to pass and hail it, 
 which we did. Having posted the letter on shore, and 
 refreshed ourselves somewhat, we started to go on board 
 again. We found our boat, when our captain and the 
 captain of the English ship came up. Our skipper asked 
 us if we would accompany them, to whom we civilly 
 replied, and so went on board with them in the evening. 
 The sailors had caught some plaice which were for the 
 guests in the cabin. I assisted in cleaning them. 
 
 24tJt, Saturday. The wind was southeast, the same as yes- 
 terday, which made us all very anxious for Margaret to 
 arrive, so that we might not miss a good wind. Jan and 
 some others of the passengers were much dissatisfied, and 
 said : "We know very well where she is. She is in Fries- 
 land." Upon this Jan declared, " if this wind blows over 
 our heads, I will write her a letter which will make her 
 ears tingle," and used many other rude expressions. He 
 
12 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 was one of the greatest of grumblers, and even against 
 her. He revealed himself more freely in a conversation 
 with my companion, from which we could clearly discover 
 that he was of the feelings of Bohecm, 1 though he denied 
 he had ever read his hooks. He also expressed himself 
 profanely and in very foul language, worse than the foulest 
 sailor or dockdoper would have done. The wind changed 
 towards evening, and thus this day passed with murmuring, 
 and we doubted no longer that this was Master John.- 
 
 25th, Sunday. It blew very hard from the west so that 
 we had to lower the topmasts and let drop the sheet anchor. 
 "We saw at daylight a yacht coming down to us before the 
 wind and were rejoiced to find that Margaret was on hoard, 
 with some other females. The yacht not coming well up, 
 our captain sent a boat to her, but they could not reach her 
 on account of the current. However, the yacht succeeded 
 in coming along side of us, and Margaret came on board 
 with her little daughter, and a Westphalian woman, who was 
 a widow, and a girl, both of whom were in her service, and 
 to go as passengers. They were welcomed by all, and all 
 of them came and shook us by the hand. Some said they 
 thought she had been to Friesland. Whereupon she 
 answered: "How do you know where I have been?" 
 We had nothing to detain us now, except the wind. 
 
 26th, Monday. The wind began to blow a little from the 
 south, but calmly. It veered round more and more to the 
 southeast so that we determined to get under sail. We 
 therefore took a pilot, weighed anchor, and set sail about 
 ten or eleven o'clock. We sailed smoothly onward to the 
 Helder. The pilot had a brother who was older, and had 
 been a pilot longer than he had, and who sailed ahead of 
 
 1 Jacob Boehme, the German theosopliist. 
 
 2 The reference to Friesland alludes, no doubt, to the community at 
 Wiewerd; but the connection of both Margaret Filipse and Jan with that 
 society, so distinctly hinted in this day's joiornal, and more obscurely before, 
 are left without any further explanation. 
 
SHIP AGROUND. 
 
 13 
 
 us in the pilot boat, continually sounding the depth of 
 water with the deep lead. When we were going by the 
 Oude Schild there came a barge off with two more women 
 who desired to go with us ; but as they could not reach the 
 ship, the pilot boat went after them and took them on board 
 of her, where they had to remain until the ship arrived out- 
 side. It was about two o'clock when we came in the chan- 
 nel of the Land's-diep or Meuwe diep. You run from 
 Oude Schild strait to the Helder, and so close to the shore 
 that you can throw a stone upon it, until you have the 
 capes on this point opposite each other, namely, the two 
 small ones ; for to the westward of these there is a large 
 one which is not to be regarded. Having the capes thus 
 opposite each other, you are in the middle of the channel 
 and by the first buoy. The current runs outside along the 
 shore, east and west, to wit : the ebb tide westerly, and the 
 flood easterly, and also very strong. The ebb runs until it 
 is half flood. There are still two other channels, the old 
 one which is the middle one, and the Spanish channel 
 stretching to the east. "We had reached the middlemost 
 buoy when it became entirely calm, for which reason we 
 could hardly steer the ship, and, in the meanwhile, the cur- 
 rent was steadily setting us over to the west bank. Here- 
 upon a dispute arose between the pilot in our ship and 
 those in the pilot boat going ahead of us. The one in the 
 ship on throwing the lead and finding it begin to be shal- 
 low, and seeing, moreover, that the current was driving us 
 more upon the shoal, was of opinion that we should wear 
 ship, which his brother was not willing to do, saying that 
 she should stand over further. This continued so long that 
 at last it became entirely dry, when he wished to tack about; 
 hut it could not then be done in consequence of the cur- 
 rent running with so much force upon shallow ground, and 
 carrying the ship violently against the shoal, where the cur- 
 rent ran obliquely. They got out the boat at the bow of 
 
14 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW TORE. 
 
 the ship to row, which would not yield in consequence of 
 the strong current which also drove the boat as well as the 
 ship ; so that, in a word, we were aground on the west hank 
 of the channel, and although the water was nearly at its 
 lowest there was still a strong ebb tide. Immediately there 
 was great clamor and running to and fro both of seamen 
 and those not acquainted with navigation. Every one was 
 alarmed, and every one did his best in that respect, the 
 more so, because there was not far from us the wreck of a 
 ship with her masts .-ticking out of water, though it was on 
 the east side of the channel. Nevertheless, we remained 
 fast, and the ship began to thump hard and fall entirely on 
 one side. They ran straitway to the pumps, hut found 
 no leak. The pilot remained in good spirits, though put 
 out and angry with his brother, who had misled us, and who, 
 in consequence of the strength of the current, and the light- 
 ness of the wind, could not come on board of us. They 
 said we were in no danger, although it looked very strange, 
 as the current had washed the sand very much from under 
 the lee of the ship whereby she had fallen much on her side. 
 But we hoped with the flood tide she would come off" again. 
 
 There were several passengers, not only women, but men, 
 and some of the bravest, who began to secure the best they 
 had, and were ready and looking out how they might safely 
 reach the land. But the Lord possessed us with his grace. 
 Though seeing all this and knowing the danger, I was dis- 
 turbed by it. Margaret proposed throwing some of the 
 cargo overboard, but the pilot and I dissuaded her from it. 
 The captain wished to start the tanks of fresh water, hut 
 we hindered him. Of all the men in the ship I saw no one 
 who was so frightened as Jan. He ran backwards and for- 
 wards and hardly knew what he said or did. This hap- 
 pened about half past three o'clock in the afternoon, and 
 as we had not yet taken any dinner, and could effect 
 nothing as long as the ship was fast, the victuals were 
 
DESCRIPTION OP TEXEL. 
 
 15 
 
 brought out to be eaten. We sat before the hut and eat ; 
 but we had not finished when I perceived the ship dragging, 
 as had been predicted. I sprang up quickly and cried out : 
 " We are afloat; the ship's afloat." Immediately thereupon 
 the whole ship was in commotion. The victuals were 
 removed, the boat put to the bow, and every one did his 
 best, rowing as well as he could. The ship, floating more 
 and more, gave some good pushes and was brought into 
 four fathoms of water, in the middle of the channel, and 
 there anchored. My companion and myself thanked God 
 in our hearts, and all were very much rejoiced. But no 
 sooner was the danger over, which had somewhat bridled 
 the godlessness of these bad men, than they returned to 
 their old courses, with cursing and foul language. They 
 were not affected in the least by what had happened, nor 
 by God's gracious preservation of us. Truly was his hand 
 visible, for it remained perfectly calm, so the ship labored 
 very little. It would otherwise have been all over with 
 us, for our ship not being the strongest, and being more- 
 over very heavily laden, if the wind had changed 'to the 
 east and forced us on a lee shore, she would have soon 
 gone to pieces; or if we had grounded on the opposite side, 
 which might easily have happened, there would have been 
 little probability of her getting off, because the flood tide 
 would have driven us higher up, especially if it had blown 
 somewhat hard. The flood having run in and a light 
 breeze springing out of the S. E. and S. S. E., the anchor 
 was raised and in a short time we came outside, having 
 been there about six hours. The pilot was paid, and 
 he left the ship ; the women whom he had taken in his 
 boat were put on board and we bid him adieu, and set 
 our course. 
 
 Before we proceed further we will say a word concerning 
 the island of Texel, where we were about eight days, 
 although the island is well known. It is said to be twenty- 
 
1G 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 eight miles 1 in circumference, and in nearly oval in form. 
 The shore, inside along the Texel deep, is dyked ; on the 
 outside, along the North sea, it is heset with dunes. There 
 are six villages, 2 namely Oostereind, Seelt, the Jloogh, the 
 Burgh, which is the principal one, and has privileges like 
 a city, such as that of inflicting capital punishment and 
 others; the Oude Scliild, which is mostly resorted to hy ships, 
 the Hoorn, and also the West End, which has now fallen 
 into decay. We saw four of them but not the Hoogh which 
 lay out of the way, and the West End which had fallen 
 into decay. Inland the country is rough, and some of it 
 high, so that there are few ditches, except in the low lands 
 for the most part on the side of Texel's deep. Otherwise 
 they protect their land with small dykes of earth. The 
 soil is sandy, which afFords very good water in the high 
 places. The meadow lands are somewhat dry, hut yield a 
 fine grass. The inhabitants gain their livelihood, for the 
 most part, by raising sheep and making Texel cheese. The 
 sheep are smaller, but fatter and more hardy than they are 
 in Eriesland. They seldom bring forth two young at a 
 birth, and when they do, one usually is killed in order that 
 the other may be better nourished. The inhabitants have 
 cows for their own use. The dyke is not high or thick, but 
 is lined with wia>i a kind of sea grass, which they put together 
 and lay against the dyke somewhat higher than the earth 
 work. Piles are driven outside to hold this wier against it, 
 and prevent the sea from washing it away. This dyke is 
 repaired every year by contract. Many fishermen and 
 pilots live along it, both qualifications generally being in 
 the same person, as well as the other pursuits pertaining to 
 navigation. There are about five hundred pilots in all 
 
 1 The distances and measurements -will continue to be rendered, as in 
 this instance, according to the English scales. 
 
 2 There were according to this enumeration, seven villages ; five instead 
 of four of which were visited by them. 
 
PILOTS. OUTSIDE THE COAST. 
 
 17 
 
 living on the island of Texel, as can be seen by the num- 
 bers which they carry on their sails or wings. 
 
 The law is that no ship can go in or out without a pilot ; 
 and in case any captain will not take a pilot, he is never- 
 theless bound to pay the fees of one, and in case the 
 captain will not pay them, the pilots can go to Amsterdam 
 and there obtain it at the expense of the captain. And if 
 the captain take no pilot and an accident happen, the con- 
 sequences fall upon him ; but I believe this first rule only 
 applies to ships belonging to Amsterdam or other ports in 
 Holland; and that foreign ships are more free in that respect, 
 but cannot relieve themselves from the second. The 
 pilots who bring in ships from the outside bring them to 
 the Texel roadstead or the Helder, and others take them to 
 Amsterdam or elsewhere ; and those who take them from 
 Amsterdam, go no further than the Texel road or the Vlie, 
 and other pilots carry them out to sea. The fees of the 
 pilots is a guilder a foot for every foot the ship draws, 
 though any sum may be fixed by agreement. 
 
 During the whole time we were there we saw few or no 
 fish, though we supposed this was the place for fish. "We 
 remarked further that the inhabitants of Texel were more 
 polite than the boors of Friesland. A large portion of 
 them are inclined to Rome. There was no home brewed 
 beer tapped in the taverns, but it was all foreign beer, and 
 this I suppose was for the purpose of saving the excise. 
 They are under the jurisdiction of West Friesland and the 
 particular government of the city of Alckmaer, whose 
 weights and measures they use. West of the Oude Schild 
 there is a small fortification with four points and two 
 redoubts on the dyke, and some small batteries ; but they 
 afford little protection to the place, and still less to the 
 harbor. It was closed and without men, when we were 
 there. When we first came there, the people, unaccus- 
 tomed to see such persons, regarded us as some individuals in 
 3 
 
18 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 particular. The innkeepers took us to be farmers of the 
 revenue, especially of brandies, and supposed our presence 
 there was to prevent their smuggling, as they themselves 
 told us. The Roman Catholics, as they declared, looked 
 upon us as priests ; the Mennonists, as a class of their ex- 
 horters ; and the ordinary Reformed, as preachers ; whereby 
 they all showed they did not know us in truth, according 
 to the word in Christ Jesus. 
 
 Leaving Texel and the land we came outside the coast, 
 laying our course 8. W. with a S. E. wind, with which we 
 sailed some distance from the shore. Towards evening 
 the wind began to blow from the S. and S. S. W. quite 
 hard, and so we stood off through the whole night. I do 
 not know that I ever had in my life so severe a pain in the 
 breast as I had this evening, whether it was from hard 
 work or change of our condition. 
 
 27ih, Tuesday. The wind from the same quarter as 
 before, but blowing harder, for which reason we reefed 
 our topsails. We had twenty-six and twenty-eight fathoms 
 of water. By evening it was somewhat calmer; but as 
 the wind was not steady we stood off from the shore. 
 
 28th, Wednesday. Finding ourselves in twenty-five and 
 twenty-six fathoms of water and the wind still south 
 and southwest we sailed over by the wind. It continued 
 to blow hard, and we sailed for the most part N". by E. 
 and X. 13T. E. It annoyed me that I could not get at our 
 chest, in order to obtain my charts and books of naviga- 
 tion. Our mate and others observed the latitude, and 
 found it to be 52° 16' ; and we tacked about. The wind 
 continued in the same quarter, sometimes a little lighter, 
 sometimes sharper. We kept mostly a S. S. E. course, 
 with hard weather the first part of the night. 
 
 29?/t, Thursday. Having twenty-six and twenty-seven 
 fathoms of water we lay over again. Every day there 
 were many mackerel caught, which for several days were 
 
COAST OF FLANDERS. DOVER. 
 
 19 
 
 for the cabin only, whatever number were caught, because 
 they were taken with the captain's hooks ; but the passen- 
 gers and sailors began to get their hooks ready also and 
 thus every one began to catch and eat. The weather was 
 delightful. I had obtained my things out of the chest, and 
 found the latitude 37° 18'. We stood over to the Flemish 
 or Zeelandish coast, calculating we were not far from Sluis 
 and Bruges. I therefore went aloft frequently to look 
 out for land. We saw several fishing boats, one of which 
 we hailed toward evening. He was from Zierick zee, and 
 told us "Walcheren was about twenty-eight miles E. S. E. of 
 us, and we could see it from the mast head, as was the fact. 
 We laid over again immediately. It now began to blow 
 more from the S. W. and S. W. by W. We had sailed 
 the last night west by north, according to reckoning, 
 twenty-eight miles. This result agreed with my observa- 
 tion less than four miles, and that of our mate, named 
 Evert. But the captain's and the English mate's calcula- 
 tion brought us before the Maes, as Evert told me. 
 
 We sailed now for a day or two among great quantities 
 of chub fish and crabs which had been driven off from 
 the land and drowned, which caused us to reflect upon 
 what God did formerly in Egypt and elsewhere, and still 
 often does, for his power is always the same, although it 
 is not always understood. 
 
 30th, Friday. We tacked over to the Flemish coast this 
 morning in twenty-five fathoms of water; but it was so 
 calm that we made little progress. It was too cloudy to 
 take the latitude. The wind was very variable, and we 
 could not keep on S. W., or even south, and so drifted for 
 the most part with the tide. 
 
 July 1st. Saturday. We had drifted the whole night in 
 the calm, and had gone backwards instead of forwards ; 
 but in the morning the wind began to blow out of the N. 
 W. and N. 1ST. W. with a stiff breeze. We therefore set 
 
20 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 all sail, and went ahead tolerably well on a straight course 
 W. by 8. and W. S. "W. against the current. We saw land 
 many times about two hours distance, both on the star- 
 board and larboard, that on the starboard being the point 
 of ])aver, and on the larboard, the point of Calais. There 
 was a free wind and fine weather, though a little haze on 
 the horizon. The land began to loom up more distinctly, 
 and I sketched it twice with crayon. "We continued to 
 catch plenty of mackerel, and also petcrman and whiting. 
 "We arrived before Dover at sunset, when wc fired a gun, 
 and a boat came oft' to us immediately, by which the cap- 
 tain sent some letters ashore. "We inquired of them the 
 news, and they answered us all was well ; but they told 
 the captain privately that 30,000 Scotch papists had taken 
 up arms for the conspirators. 1 
 
 It is proper I should say something here of the Xorth 
 sea. In case you are driven about by strong contrary 
 winds and cannot obtain the latitude, and, indeed, under 
 any circumstances, you should use the deep lead frequently, 
 for the depth is well shown on the chart, and often you 
 cannot get sight of the land. The Flemish coast is the 
 least dangerous, although the English is the most surveyed, 
 because the water becomes shoal gradually. You may get 
 into thirteen and fourteen fathoms of water. In the true 
 channel it is twenty and twenty-two fathoms, and in the 
 middle it is deeper, namely, twenty-six and twenty-eight 
 and over, but it is somewhat more uneven. In approach- 
 ing the English coast the shoals are more even as twenty- 
 six, eighteen, seventeen fathoms. To navigate the channel 
 it is best to keep nearest the Flemish coast, because it 
 affords a better course, and the current makes it easy to 
 go north, and the sandbars such as the Galper and others, 
 especially Goyn, are more to be avoided than the 
 
 1 This refers to the conspiracy to murder Charles II, charged by Oates. 
 
ISLE OP WIGHT. 
 
 21 
 
 Flemish banks ; and, moreover, close by the shore it is very- 
 deep, yet by the setting of the current to the north you 
 may soon be upon them, that is, with an ebb tide. 
 
 2d, Sunday. Made fair progress during the night. We 
 found ourselves in the morning before the point of Beve- 
 sier, 1 which I sketched. The wind was northerly with a 
 cool air. About breakfast time a large English ship came 
 up behind us, which we hailed. She was from London 
 and bound for the Straits. She had much sail on, and 
 after passing us, set all she had ; but not long afterwards a 
 small breeze blowing off sbore, she was compelled to begin 
 to take in her topgallant-sails and upperstay-sails. This 
 was scarcely half done when her maintop-mast and mizzen- 
 top-mast went by the board, and remained hanging on the 
 side of the ship. The man who was taking in the topgal- 
 lant-sail fell overboard. When this accident happened she 
 was only a short distance ahead of us ; and we, therefore, 
 all ran forward to the forecastle to see whether there were 
 any pieces of wood at our bow to damage us. We sailed 
 by her, close under her lee, and saw somewhat of a crowd 
 running about the ship. Finally they launched their jolly- 
 boat for the purpose of looking after the man who had 
 fallen overboard with the top-mast. Whether there were 
 any more we did not know, and as we sailed ahead of them 
 with considerable speed, we could not see whether they 
 fished any one up or not ; but the ship sailed before the 
 wind the best she could, when her top-mast went overboard; 
 we took in very quickly our own topgallant-sail, which we 
 had set, but more from precaution than necessity. Shortly 
 afterwards it was so calm that we merely drifted along ; 
 and being nearly midway between Bevesier and the Isle of 
 Wight, and the ebb tide running out, we were compelled 
 by the current to anchor about a mile from the shore. 
 
 1 Beacliy Head. 
 
22 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 About four o'clock in the afternoon Margaret came to 
 me while I was engaged in sketching the Isle of "Wight. 
 We talked over various matters which were almost the 
 same as those about which she had conversed with my 
 companion the day before, and I therefore met her with 
 the same objections. 1 
 
 3d, Monday. We did not advance any during the night, 
 and had drifted along; but a breeze springing up we went 
 ahead a little. It was very foggy, so that we could not see 
 the land. It cleared up in the afternoon, when we found 
 ourselves off' against the Isle of AVight ; but the wind sub- 
 siding, and the tide being spent, we ran for the point of the 
 island, and came to anchor in ten or eleven fathoms near 
 some other ships which were waiting thei'e for a good 
 wind and tide. The jolly-boat was launched and our 
 Dutch mate and two other persons went ashore in order to 
 see if they could obtain some fresh provisions. The tide 
 having passed, and the wind shifting, we signaled to them 
 to come on board again, which they did in the evening, 
 when we were already most under sail. They brought 
 nothing with them, except a little milk which served us as 
 a good refreshment for this evening. Sailing ahead, we 
 steered above the point with the wind W. S. W., and so 
 gained the open sea. There is a very strong current here, 
 and hard beating along the shore and around the point. 
 The current sent us ahead more than the wind. The coast 
 is quite good and it is deep enough close up to the shore. 
 
 4th, Tuesday. We found ourselves in the morning oppo- 
 site Wight with the wind S. S. E., and rpiite still. After 
 a while there came up a breeze. We passed Peveril 
 point, however, with the ebb. About noon a flute-ship 
 came near us which we hailed. She was from Amsterdam, 
 bound to Cadiz. It was so calm in the evening that we 
 
 1 What these subject-matters were do not appear. 
 
THE EDDYSTONE. 
 
 23 
 
 rifted, and turned round several times. "We perceivedd 
 fifteen or eighteen large ships on the French coast, which 
 saluted each other with many heavy guns. The ehb being 
 spent, we came to anchor again in twenty-one fathoms of 
 water, about two miles from the shore. The flood having 
 run out by evening, we weighed anchor, and before we were 
 under sail had a fresh wind astern. We therefore set all 
 the sail we could, having a favorable wind and tide, by 
 which means we came before Portland. 
 
 hth, Wednesday. "We still had a fair wind and kept our 
 course W. by S. We passed Portland, and came in sight 
 of Goldstart, 1 and arrived off against it about noon. Our 
 mate was of opinion that we had run by the rock of 
 Meeusteen or Jetstone, 2 and should have it on the larboard ; 
 but on looking out afterwards we found it right before us, 
 about four miles off. "We had therefore to hold up and 
 leave it on the starboard. It is a large rock having its 
 head just above the water. It rises up straight, but is very 
 much hacked, which makes it look like a reef. Whenever 
 the sea is rough it is under water. It is dangerous enough, 
 and lies far out in the channel, farther than it is marked 
 down on my chart. We certainly had reason here again 
 to observe the care of the Lord, and his protection through 
 his good providence, which always watches paternally over 
 his children, shown in our becoming aware of this rock 
 before the evening, and just before the evening, for we 
 had not well gone by it before it was dark. If we had been 
 sailing so at night, or if we had not now discovered it, the 
 mate's calculation being as it was, we certainly would not 
 
 . 1 Start Point. 
 
 2 The Eddystone is here meant — formerly one of the most dangerous 
 reefs on the south coast of England. There was no light-house upon it at 
 this time. The first one was commenced in 169G ; the present famous one 
 in 1759. The Dutch name, Meeusteen, signifies Mewstonc — a name 
 derived from the gull or sea mew. 
 
24 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 missed sailing upon it; for when we first saw it, it was 
 straight before us, and we were sailing with a fair wind 
 and tide up to it. We were therefore touched, and thankful 
 to the Lord. This passed, we still, while the sun was 
 going down clear, made Deadman's head, a point jutting 
 out from England, so that we reckoned we were still 
 twenty-eight or thirty-two miles from Falmouth bay ; but 
 the wind had fallen off some. My calculation was, that we 
 were about twelve or sixteen miles from Falmouth. 
 
 C)ih, Thursday. During the night I heard the ship tack 
 close about, and therefore supposed that the wind had 
 changed, or that the ship had ran too far, or, what was 
 more probable, I was afraid, the wind being about S. E., 
 we had fallen more to the shore. Our mate Evert and I 
 thought we should stand off a little till daylight; but the 
 captain tacked about again, so that we then sailed ^N. E., 
 intending thus to enter the harbor of Falmouth, but we 
 found no opening, and when the day broke, discovered 
 that they had made a mistake, and had taken the point of 
 Deadman's head for the point of Falmouth bay. When 
 the sun rose, they saw they were deep in the bay, on a lee 
 shore, where it all looked strange, and they had a tolerably 
 hard wind. When they saw they were wrong it continued 
 so some time before they became informed. They then 
 wore ship, and sailed with epiite easy sheets out of the bay. 
 
 This mishap was mainly caused by Master Jan, who 
 wishing to play the part of a wise man, though truly it 
 was from fear, had been on deck several times during the 
 night in order to look out, afraid, as he said himself, that 
 we might sail upon the point of the Lizard. Coming up 
 at this time with drowsy eyes, and catching a glimpse of 
 the land, through the mist, he began to call out, that we 
 had passed by Falmouth, and would certainly sail upon 
 the Lizard. It was the English mate's watch, who was 
 not very well acquainted with him, and could not keep 
 
DE ADMAN'S HEAD. FALMOUTH. 
 
 25 
 
 him still. The captain was therefore called, who also 
 came up rubbing his eyes, and unable to see the land well 
 in the mist. He coincided with Jan, being apprehensive 
 that the ship had sailed more than they thought, and as I 
 myself considered might well be the case, and so let the 
 ship tack about. I deemed it better, however, to keep off 
 from the shore till daylight, when they could see where 
 they were ; but the captain relying more upon Jan's 
 opinion, and wishing to accomplish half a master piece, by 
 going into Falmouth in the dark, and surprising the 
 people there to whom the ship was consigned, and so 
 to pass hereafter as a good and skillful captain, insisted 
 upon sailing in, and so they went in, as has been mentioned. 
 It is no part of the business of a good seaman to run into a 
 place by night, or when it is dark, where he is not well ac- 
 quainted ; but in such case he should work off shore slowly, 
 waiting until day and light, and know where he is, and 
 then see what can be done. Thus the fear of one danger, 
 and the rashness accompanying it, brought us into another, 
 greater than the first. 
 
 Sailing then out of this bay, around the west point, we 
 saw at once the neck from which this point of land takes 
 its name of Deadman's head. It is shaped like a coffin or 
 the mound of earth which peasants form over a grave, 
 one end a little higher than the other, and going up sharp 
 on either side ; but it is on the top somewhat jagged. It 
 is on the east side 'of the point, three or four cable lengths 
 from the main land. We had a third mate (Titus), on 
 board the ship who was to go on the other ship at Fal- 
 mouth, and who was well acquainted here. He said he 
 had passed through the opening between the rock and the 
 main land, and that it was a mile wide and tolerably 
 clear and deep enough. After having passed Deadman's 
 head and this rock, we came to a small pretty sand-bay, 
 but it lies open. From Deadman's head you can see, on 
 4 
 
26 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 the point of Falmouth hay, a church with a small spire, 
 and near it a stone wind-mill, which forms a good land 
 mark, for along the whole coast there are few or no 
 steeples. As you sail along this point the castle 1 comes 
 into view standing upon the west point of the harbor of 
 Falmouth, where also there is a stone wind-mill. The 
 easterly point should he avoided, for it runs out consider- 
 ably. It is hard bottom, and at low tide there is three fathoms 
 water always; and we sailed in with that depth. As 
 soon as you perceive it is deeper, you have passed the east 
 point. Then keep along this shore if the wind be fair, for 
 there is a rock almost directly in the channel. You can 
 go around it close enough, but this should not be done. As 
 it was low water when we entered, it stuck up out of the 
 water. At high tide it is covered. There is a spar or 
 pole upon it, which cannot be seen far, but the breakers 
 are sufficiently visible. When you sail in, in this manner, 
 you see the other castle 2 also, lying on the east side, on a 
 point inside. After having passed the rock, keep a little 
 again on the inside, and then to the west, so as to 
 avoid the second point, upon which the east castle is situ- 
 ated. As soon as you have passed that, you have deeper 
 water and softer bottom; and you must then look out 
 that you do no damage to the shipping, for the roadstead 
 commences there, and you can see the city or village of 
 Falmouth lying upon the west side of the bay, and appear- 
 ing somewhat prettier than it is in fact. . When we arrived, 
 we found a large number of vessels lying there ; but being 
 desirous of sailing high up, several ships received good 
 thumps from us, in passing by them, and our endeavoring to 
 keep off the shoals. It would have resulted much worse, 
 if our sheet anchor, which was lying up forward, had not 
 caught between the rails of a small vessel, whose mizen- 
 
 1 Pendennis. 
 
 2 St. Mawes. 
 
UNLADING THE SHIP. PENRYN. 
 
 27 
 
 mast we also came foul of, whereby our ship turned round, 
 and at the same time our anchor fell, and we touched 
 bottom in the mud, with fine weather and still water. "We 
 thanked our God again, with our whole hearts, for the 
 double mercy shown us this morning, having not only in 
 a fatherly manner preserved us from an apprehended 
 danger, but delivered us from this one into which we had 
 truly fallen, and had then caused us to arrive so well. To 
 him belongs all praise and glory, from all his children, 
 and especially from us, to all eternity. Amen. 
 
 Our anchor had not yet touched bottom when the in- 
 spectors or tide-waiters all came on board to examine. 
 Our captain and Margaret went immediately ashore ; and 
 after the cook had served the breakfast, most all the pas- 
 sengers, both old and young, putting on their best clothes, 
 did the same. My comrade also went to see if any letters 
 had arrived for us, whilst I remained on board to look 
 after things a little ; for all our goods were in the berth, 
 and otherwise within reach, and the ship was constantly 
 full of strange people. My comrade soon returned, but 
 brought no letters. This morning while we were launch- 
 ing the boat, I hurt myself in the loins, on my left side ; 
 the pain extended through the whole of that side of my body, 
 to my left breast, and across the middle to the right breast. 
 I was all bent up while standing, and had to sit down. I 
 could scarcely draw a breath or move myself ; but I felt it 
 was my old complaint, forced upon me anew when I hurt 
 myself. This pain continued for some days, when it gradu- 
 ally passed over. At high water we towed the ship higher 
 up, to the warehouse, where we had to unload. The 
 custom house officers, and Mr. Rogers, came on board 
 with some other persons, and when they left, they promised 
 us the ship should be unladen by Tuesday, for which we 
 were glad. 
 
 1th, Friday. They began early to break open the hatches 
 
28 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 and discharge the ship. My comrade and I went ashore to 
 a place called Penryn,"a little further up the hay, and as 
 far as they can go with any vessels. We walked thence 
 into the country, over and among the hills, for the pwpose 
 of recreating and recruiting ourselves, which refreshed us 
 very much, after having been so long in an overburdened 
 ship and with such wicked men. 
 
 We returned to l'enryn at noon in order to see if we 
 could obtain some place or other to lodge and rest ourselves 
 for a time. By chance we came to an inn in that place, 
 called The English Ship, the landlord of which was named 
 Master Jean, who spoke a little Dutch, and, as we afterwards 
 discovered, better French, so well indeed that we could 
 converse with him. We took dinner there, and agreed 
 with him to lodge there for several days, with the privilege 
 of a chamber to ourselves. 
 
 Sfli, Saturday. Having slept on board the ship we went 
 in the morning to our new lodgings, where we breakfasted, 
 and then rambled into the country to divert ourselves, and 
 thence to Falmouth, and so returned by evening to our 
 lodgings. 
 
 Sunday. My companion being disposed to write, I 
 went to the Episcopal church where I was surprised to find 
 in the churchyard a great crowd of people sitting together, 
 smoking tobacco and waiting for the last toll of the bell. 
 On entering the church I was still more astonished at the 
 ceremonies which indeed did not differ much from those of 
 popery, and continued cpiite long enough. Then followed 
 a sermon, if it may be called such, delivered in a white 
 gown, as were the first services and other ceremonies in 
 like vestments. The sermon was read out of a little book, 
 without 'the addition of a single word. It began about ten 
 o'clock, and was not very edifying. The text was from 
 2 Cor., xiii, 11. It continued till about half-past eleven, 
 when church was over, and the burgomasters or mayors, 
 
LETTERS FROM HOME. POSTAGE. 
 
 29 
 
 with two golden royal sceptres, were carried home. In 
 the afternoon I took a walk to the ship, and thence 
 in a small half-hour to Falmouth. She was lying mid- 
 way hetween the two places for the purpose of being 
 unladen. 
 
 10th, Monday. We remained at our lodgings almost the 
 whole day writing letters. Our ship was nearly discharged, 
 which I went in the evening to ascertain. 
 
 11^, Tuesday. We continued still at our lodgings, hut in 
 the afternoon visited the ship in consequence of their 
 telling us that our chest would be examined, as indeed 
 took place. There were some passengers on shore whose 
 chests were broken open, because they did not attend to 
 them, and the inspectors would not wait. They cut to 
 pieces the cords of their berth under which they found 
 some things ; but although there were more berths so 
 arranged, and still better furnished than this one, they did 
 nothing to them, as they well knew beforehand whose they 
 were, and why they did what was done. When they examined 
 our chest, they took almost all our goods out of it. However, 
 they did not see our little box, or perhaps they thought it 
 contained medicines, as they found in the other one. The 
 two small pieces of linen were entered, and my name signed 
 to them. They went to our berth, but did nothing; nor 
 was any thing there. 
 
 12th, Wednesday. This whole' day was a writing day for 
 the post, which would leave to-morrow. They began to 
 reload the ship in the afternoon. I went on board, and 
 also went to see if there were any letters for us, which 
 turned out to be the fact ; for, on finding the captain, he 
 gave me a letter for which I paid twenty-two pence postage. 
 This was the first letter we had received from home. It is 
 unnecessary for me to say that I was rejoiced, or that we 
 thanked the Lord that he still thought of us. I went 
 immediately with it to my companion, who was as glad as 
 
30 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW TORE. 
 
 I was, for the letter came just in time to be answered, as 
 we did with joy and tenderness of heart. 
 
 YMh, T hursflay. As the post was soon to leave, we took 
 our letters to the post office at Pcnryn, next to The White 
 Dolphin. The package was weighed, and was one ounce 
 and a quarter in weight, for which we paid fifteen pence 
 postage to London; and they informed us it would reach 
 London on Monday. Our ship being almost laden again, 
 we paid our landlord and returned on board ship. We 
 could have easily remained a day or two longer at our 
 lodgings, but our landlord had given us reasons for 
 leaving. Coming on board the ship, we began to arrange 
 our place a little for keeping house again. Meanwhile I 
 helped fill the water casks. There was also some beef to 
 be salted in barrels. 
 
 14/A, Friday. Our ship was entirely laden, that is, with 
 the goods she had to take, for there was a large quantity of 
 them which had come out of her, remaining for the other 
 ship which Margaret had bought there, and which was to 
 be made ready there to go to the Isle of May, and thence to 
 Barbadoes. She was a large but very weak ship, short 
 and high, small and meagre as regards bulk, not altogether 
 old, but misbuilt. She sailed tolerably well, but was very 
 lank. Two of our crew went with her, namely, Titus, who 
 was to be boatswain, and one of our carpenters, named 
 Herman, who was the best one we had. They went, from 
 the first, to work upon her, for she was lying in winter 
 quarters. Our ship being laden, our captain went on board 
 the large one with an English lad, the cabin boy, and his, 
 the captain's wife. This captain had obtained a quaker for 
 his mate, a young man and a very poor seaman, as I have 
 been able to observe. Hereupon our English mate, named 
 Robert, who also was a quaker, became captain in the 
 place of the other, and our Dutch mate, or rather Kew 
 Netherland mate, named Evert van Duike — for he was a 
 
PENDENNIS CASTLE. 
 
 31 
 
 New Netherlander born, and his parents and relations 
 were still there, though he had married at Amsterdam and 
 had lived there a long time, hut was now taking his wife and 
 children with him to New Netherlancl — became mate 
 in place of the other. In return for the three persons and 
 the boy who had gone from our crew, we obtained only 
 one in their place, a poor creature, called Jan, the doctor, 
 of Boston, who seemed more a charlatan in his behavior 
 and gestures than a good seaman. Meanwhile we went 
 walking, to see the country, and in the afternoon came 
 to the east castle, where a soldier conducted us from the 
 gate and took us before the governor, who asked us who 
 we were, where we came from, what flag our ship bore, 
 when and with whom we had arrived, and for what purpose 
 we had come to the castle. We answered him politely ; but 
 ( we could not make ourselves well understood by him, for 
 he spoke nothing but English, which we could not do, or 
 very little, though we could understand it pretty well. 
 He finally ordered the soldier to conduct us around the 
 castle, in order that we might look at it. Having satisfied 
 the soldier, we left, and went down the hill. The beer 
 brewed at the castle is very poor ; there is little or no fresh 
 water up there, and what there is, does not amount to 
 much. The castle is otherwise strong and well provided, 
 having over an hundred guns in different batteries, which 
 command the harbor and the entire roadstead. 1 When we 
 reached the ship she was laden. 
 
 1 On the restoration of the Stuarts, Richard, Lord Arundell, was made 
 governor of Pendennis castle, which his father had bravely defended to 
 the last extremity against the parliamentary forces in 1G46, the garrison 
 having been reduced to the necessity of eating the flesh of dogs and horses 
 before the sturdy old governor surrendered. Richard was succeeded by 
 his son, John, Lord Arundell, and one of these two was, no doubt, governor 
 at the time of the visit of our travelers. The castle was built by Henry VIII, 
 on the site of an old fortification, for the purpose of defense against the 
 French.— LyiorCa May. Brit., iii, 104-5. 
 
 Falmouth at that time contained about 250 houses, and soon after 
 
32 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 15th, Saturday. As our ship was now full, and orders had 
 come to haul the ship at high water from hefore the ware- 
 house and off from the ground, they did so this morning. 
 We went to Penryn to buy some butter, and when we 
 returned the boat was sent for fresh water, which was 
 brought on board, and the ship then towed to the road- 
 stead below, where she arrived in the evening, somewhat 
 late, and was moored at once. 
 
 Sund/ty. The weather was misty and rainy. We 
 went ashore with one of the passengers and one of the 
 sailors, a young fellow, a Scotchman, by birth, from the 
 Orkneys, and a prcsbyterian by profession, named Robert, 
 who took us, at our request, to the presbyterian meeting, 
 which we left quite satisfied with the zeal of the preacher. 
 Their mode of service is not different from that of the 
 Reformed in Holland, but the common people sat there 
 with very little reverence. At noon we went to dine at a 
 very good inn, called The Golden Fleece, and in the 
 afternoon we attended the meeting of the episcopalians, of 
 whose church service we have before spoken, and so in the 
 evening returned on board the ship. 
 
 17'/', Monday. We went this morning again with some 
 passengers to Penryn, where the yearly market day was 
 held, with the intention of laying out a little money in 
 some purchases, having rid ourselves of Mr. Jan, who had 
 sought to get it out of our hands, and would by that 
 means have cheated us. He promised us, if we would let 
 
 became a place of some importance as the port of the post office packets 
 to the West Indies and elsewhere. In 1755 there were two packets 
 employed between Falmouth and New York, and, in 1703, four. 
 
 Penryn is a very ancient town, older than Falmouth. It had a court 
 leet before the Norman conquest, and sent two members to parliament. 
 The borough was incorporated by James I, and by its charter it could 
 hold three fairs annually, namely : on May 1st, Jul)- 7th and December 
 21. The town has no trade or commerce, but is said to be beautifully 
 situated on a ridge, which, on the northern side, goes down into a valley 
 watered by a branch of Falmouth harbor. — Itinerary of Cornwall, 128-9. 
 
CUSTOM HOUSE OFFICERS. 
 
 33 
 
 him have the money, thirty per cent interest payable in 
 New York, or ducats there at twelve guilders of zeewan 
 each ; x but the Lord, who has care over the least of his 
 children, saved us from this fox, and excited the attention 
 of another passenger, namely, Jan Theunissen, who lived 
 on Lon£ Island, and who advised us what to do. 2 
 
 We bought several things on which we thought we 
 could make a profit, because the peril of the sea was to be 
 encountered. The Lord, who as I have said, takes care of 
 the least of his children, so ordered it that we not only did 
 not lose any thing by our Dutch money, which commonly 
 brings not more than five shillings for a ducat ; but we 
 received for almost all that we used, five shillings and six 
 pence, that is 67 stuivers. The reason of this was, that 
 the man who took our money was about going to Norway, 
 for timber, where he could pay it out at a higher rate 
 than English money. Having made our purchases, we went 
 to Falmouth, but as we could not take our goods on board 
 the ship without first declaring them, we had to take 
 them to Mr. Rogers's, where one Mr. Jacobs lived, who had 
 assisted in inspecting the ship's lading, and who would do 
 the same with these. Thinking over the purchases we had 
 made at Penryn, we discovered there was a mistake in the 
 
 1 A ducat was a small gold coin of Holland, worth about two dollars 
 our currency. 
 
 2 This was Jan Theunissen van Dykhuis, who married Aagjc (Agatha) 
 daughter of Elbert Elbertsen, of Amersfoort, now Flatlands, on Long 
 Island. He does not appear to have been any way conspicuous ; but his 
 father-in-law was at this time a man of considerable note, having risen 
 from a low condition to be one of the most substantial citizens of the 
 colony. He came to New Netherland as a servant to Wouter Van 
 Twiller, at a very tender age, and was afterwards in the service of 
 Kiliaen Van Rensselaer. He was one of the nine men appointed by 
 the colonists in 1049 to represent their grievances to the States General. 
 He became proprietor of Bergen's island, and other lands, in Flatlands, 
 and died about 1080. — Genealogy of the Bergen Family, by Hon. Teunis 
 G. Bergen, p. 99. 
 
 5 
 
3d 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 payment of a bill, arising from tbe counting of tbe money 
 by our Dutch mate and Jan Theunissen. The difference 
 amounted to one pound sterling. We, or our friends on our 
 account, had paid the bill. We discovered the mistake at 
 Falmouth, and immediately went back to Penryn, informed 
 the merchant of the mistake, which he did not have much 
 trouble in comprehending. He gave us back the money, 
 for which we were glad, and returning, arrived by evening 
 on board the ship. 
 
 IStk, Tuesday. One Mr. Lucas, the most rigid of tbe 
 inspectors and custom house officers came on board tins 
 morning. We spoke to him, told him what we had bought, 
 and requested him to examine them. We said we might 
 buy something more and he could assess them all together, 
 lie replied he did not wish not to examine our chest, or 
 what we might have bought previously; but would go 
 ashore with us and look at what we had there. lie told 
 us also that he had a small piece or two of stuffs, which, if 
 we would buy, he would let us have at a bargain. We 
 went to Mr. Jacobs's where he looked over what we had 
 bought. He told us we had paid dear for them, although 
 we thought we had bought them cheap. Mr. Jacobs said 
 he had a remnant of tin which he would sell us for ten 
 stuivers a foot, and we had paid twelve for ours. We 
 were directed to pay Mr. Jacobs three shillings English for 
 duties upon the goods we had there, whenever we should 
 have all our merchandise together. Mr. Lucas went with 
 us to a shop over the door of Mr. Eogers, where he bought 
 several things for us at a low price ; he even compelled 
 the merchant almost to give us the goods for what he 
 chose, for the merchant did not dare to refuse or disoblige 
 him. They were always good purchases. He also brought 
 us something of his own which he sold us on favorable 
 terms. I supposed these were confiscated goods, which 
 they wanted to get rid of, and that this was the reason 
 
SHIP CLEARED FROM ENGLAND. • 35 
 
 they were so * accommodating to us. Our purchases 
 heiug completed, he took us to an inn where we regaled 
 him for the trouble he had taken with the above- 
 mentioned merchant. "We were compelled this evening 
 to eat and sleep ashore, which we did at the inn, The 
 Golden Fleece. 
 
 "We had heard a great deal said for some clays past, and 
 to-day, Of great danger from the Turks, who had taken 
 four Dutch ships. This caused no small apprehension in 
 our ship, and especially in Mr. Jan. 
 
 19^, Wednesday. My companion wrote a letter home 
 from on board the ship. We did our best this whole day 
 to get our little merchandise on board, but without 
 success, because it was not yet declared. However, every 
 thing concerning the ship and the lading was finished 
 to-day; and the passengers obtained thfe bills of their 
 goods, and paid them. Having accomplished nothing the 
 whole day, we returned on board the ship. 
 
 20th, Thursday. My comrade having finished the letters, 
 we went on shore to Mr. Rogers's, in order to post them 
 in time, and paid the postage to London. We bought 
 also some brandy, vinegar and other articles, for we began 
 to see it would go slim with us on the voyage. We were 
 engaged the whole day in declaring our goods and 
 carrying them on board, which was completed early in 
 the evening, and the goods stowed away. We then paid Mr. 
 Lucas a ducaton 1 for the duties on our goods. He told us 
 what the duties on the whole of the ship's cargo amounted to, 
 and gave us various other information, all very willingly, 
 because, after he heard that I was somewhat acquainted 
 with the wine business, he desired some particulars in 
 regard to it from me, which I gave him in writing to his 
 satisfaction. We were now all cleared. 
 
 1 A silver coin at that time of Holland, worth about a dollar and a 
 quarter. 
 
30 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YOHK. 
 
 21*1, Friday. This rooming it was very misty. Xfcfl 
 wind was well to the K E., but quite still, and they talked 
 of leaving immediately. The bow anchor was therefore 
 raised, and we got under weigh, and ran to the mouth of 
 the bay, where we came to anchor again under the castle. 
 The captain, Margaret, and many of the passengers went 
 ashore, but my comrade and I remained on board. For 
 some days past we had heard it rumored that our ship's 
 boat was to be taken from us, and we were to have the 
 boat of the large ship in its place, or that we would go to 
 sea without a boat. Whichsoever it might be, it was a 
 matter of importance to all who might be in our ship. 
 As to goiug to sea without a boat, it could hardly be 
 thought of, for how much depends upon one, experience 
 has fully shown. It was evident we must submit to take 
 that belonging to the other ship, or hold on to our own by 
 force. We had seen the other ship's boat several times, 
 and we knew she was very badly built, and not only not 
 serviceable, but very incommodious. All things considered, 
 it would be causing us a great inconvenience to put this 
 boat upon us, by reason of the little or no service which 
 we could derive from it. We were also afraid of it, as 
 it was much larger than ours, and ours was already too 
 large for the ship ; for when it was hauled on board there 
 was scarcely room at the main hatchway or the forehatch 
 to climb out; and if the other boat, which was much 
 larger, were placed there, the hatches would certainly have 
 to be closed entirely. What an inconvenience that would 
 have caused to all the passengers, who, in such a great 
 number lodged between the two decks, can not be fully 
 expressed. It would in all probability have produced 
 sickness. In the next place the boat was so heavy, that 
 with the small number of our crew remaining, namely : 
 ten men with the captain and mate, it could not have 
 been properly managed. But the worst of all was, it was 
 
TROUBLE ABOUT THE BOAT. 
 
 37 
 
 so rotten that you could not keep it above water, and you 
 could tread holes in it with your feet. "We could not, 
 therefore, consent to an exchange. It only remained 
 for us to oppose the measure, and point out its injustice : 
 that the boat of the ship in which we had taken passage 
 was a part of the vessel, and in depriving us of it, they 
 would take away from us what was ours by agreement. 
 There was no person in the ship who did not object to it, 
 except Margaret and the captain of the old ship, or rather 
 the captain of the other ship alone, who was master here. 
 He never did any thing except to please these miserable, 
 covetous people, namely : Margaret and her husband, who 
 would not have another boat built in Falmouth, but it 
 must be done in New York, where timber was a little 
 cheaper. Our captain, who had been only made captain 
 for this voyage, durst not set himself against it and thus 
 induce the other captain, and consequently the merchant, 
 to oppose Margaret. Everybody else was opposed to it. 
 Mr. Jan, who did not enquire much after the merchant, 
 having a great fear of him, and whom Margaret could 
 compel, also opposed it. But now, when it came to the point, 
 no one dared to speak ; the sailors, who are veiy tightly 
 bound and severely treated on board of English ships, dared 
 not say any thing ; and the passengers grumbled among 
 themselves; but when it was necessary that something 
 should be said, no one was willing to be the first to 
 speak out. They stood like children and let themselves be 
 easily appeased. We, however, considered the matter, and I 
 resolved rather to speak out now, than, at the best, to sit in 
 the dark, to be stifled with the heat and stench, to be sick 
 and not have a breath of air, as must have been the 
 consequence to us in the bow of the ship. Finally, our 
 old captain and our two former sailors, who went with 
 him on board the other ship, brought their old boat in 
 order to take ours away with them. Mr. Rogers, Mr. 
 
VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 Lucas, Mr. Jacobs and others came also on board. I 
 thought I would do nothing until the last moment, and no 
 one else opposed it. It seemed to me to be my duty thou, 
 for the general welfare, and especially for my worthy 
 companion and myself, to do all I could. Our boat then 
 coming along side with the captain and passengers in it, 
 I told the passengers to remain in and keep it, and not to 
 come out of it, for nothing was easier in case they 
 came out of it, than for the old captain to take possession 
 and carry it away; yet they all came out, notwithstanding 
 I had requested them to remain. I know not why it was, 
 whether they did not understand me, having drank once, 
 or whether they dared not do so. I therefore jumped into 
 the boat myself, when the captain inquired what I had 
 said, and I answered that we were determined not to let 
 our boat go. He then stood up, laughing derisively, and 
 opposed me in an angry manner. I told him that rather 
 than part with the boat, and subject ourselves to the danger 
 of the other one, we would see him thrown overboard, and 
 my opinion was, he deserved to be shipwrecked, if it should 
 so happen to us as was contemplated. I do not know 
 whether he well understood me, or whether I had expressed 
 myself properly, for I did not speak good English. I was 
 amazed at seeing all the other passengers standing round like 
 children. He came running from the stern of the boat to 
 the front, where I was, with his cane uplifted, and saying : 
 " You will throw me overboard, will you ? " Seeing the 
 quaker wished to strike me, I sprang into the middle of 
 the boat and grappling him, held him so tight that he 
 could not do it, when the others separated us. He went on 
 board the ship, and declared he would have me put in 
 prison, because I had threatened to throw him overboard, 
 as he said: but he was better informed by some of the 
 passengers, who heard and understood what I had said 
 better than he did. Otherwise there was not a passenger 
 
LEAVING FALMOUTH. 
 
 39 
 
 who ventured to say a word. Some wives only cried and 
 bawled about what was proposed to be done. The mate's 
 wife, who, with two small children, was placed directly 
 opposite our berth, and would there have suffered much 
 also, ran with another woman, screeching into the cabin, 
 and there bemoaned herself. Mr. Jacobs spoke against me, 
 and said the captain was right in his acts and threats ; 
 miserable time servers, encouraging any one in what they 
 are convinced in their own hearts is not right, as our 
 captain and Margaret themselves afterwards acknowledged. 
 I came out of the boat myself, not being able to accomplish 
 any thing alone ; when, finally, the passengers began here 
 and there to say a word. But, nevertheless, the old 
 captain ordered his sailors to put the gear in our boat, in 
 order to take her away. Mr. Jan, standing nearest by, 
 prevented that being done, and then ran forward to the 
 cabin, where there was a violent wrangling going on. At 
 last the mayor or burgomaster came upon deck, and 
 promised us all that we should retain our boat, and told us 
 henceforth to rest easy. I went up to him and thanked 
 him politely, and offered him an apology for speaking 
 hastily perhaps, which he accepted, and gave me his hand. 
 Afterwards our old captain came to me and said, " Well, I 
 did not think you were such a man ; " for he had to say 
 something. I replied, that he must in conscience say if 
 he were in our place he would not have permitted it. He 
 said, " No, I would not have permitted it, and you did 
 right in opposing it, though you could have done so in a 
 little different manner." " Yes," said I, " and we might 
 in the meantime have lost our boat." At which he went 
 away, repeating that he was not surprised that we had 
 opposed it. Finally all became quiet, and were glad we 
 had held on to the boat. Even our own captain said, this 
 same day, that he was as glad as any one on board the ship 
 could be, though he was sorry it happened as it did. The 
 
40 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 sailors who came from the other ship, raved and swore 
 ahout the old boat in a way not to he repeated ; but said they 
 were glad on our account, and also their own, because it 
 would be the means, perhaps, of their obtaining a new 
 boat; that they had railed out so against the old boat 
 because as we had refused to have it, they would have to 
 use it to lift the large anchors, and even to unload and 
 load the ship, for which it would be still less serviceable. 
 The matter certainly went off well, and we thanked the 
 Lord in our hearts. 
 
 We then weighed anchor and got under sail, leaving on 
 the left hand the rock which lies in the mouth of the 
 harbor. It is on account of this rock that this place is 
 called Falmouth, or Foulmoufh, that is, foul mouth. 1 The 
 wind was about S. E., but when we reached outside, it 
 shifted more and more to the south, and became quite 
 light, so that by evening we were opposite Black point. 
 It tbcn became entirely calm, and we had to keep off and 
 on, and the ship herself afterwards tacked about. After 
 supper the watch was set. Another passenger, named Gerrit, 
 and myself, were added to the mate's watch. While we 
 were in the first watch, and four glasses 2 had not yet run 
 out, black clouds began to rise, accompanied with heavy 
 thunder and lightning. It was frightful. The crew were 
 immediately called on deck, the topsails taken in, the 
 other sails furled, and every thing made fast, when it 
 
 Falmouth, like other sea ports of England whose names have the 
 same termination, such as Plymouth, Dartmouth and Yarmouth, takes 
 its name from being the mouth of a river, that of Fal, the little stream 
 which here empties itself into the sea. The town is so called from the 
 bay ; and, as has already been observed, is of comparatively modern date. 
 The locality was at an early period called Pennycomequick, a popular 
 expression, it is said, composed of three Cornish words pen, coom, ick, 
 signifying, narrow valley by the creek.— British Gazetteer. 
 
 2 A glass runs half an hour. 
 
ALARM ABOUT THE PIRATES. 
 
 41 
 
 began to rain so exceedingly hard, that I do not recollect 
 ever to have seen it rain harder. We were thoroughly 
 wet through. It continued the whole night. Whenever 
 it lightened we could see a great distance from us, and 
 perceived several ships, two or three large vessels and 
 some small ones, which increased our fear of the Turks. 
 When there was no lightning we could not see our hands 
 before our faces. I remained up the whole night, as there 
 was no opportunity to sleep. 
 
 22'/, Saturday. The wind during the day-watch changing 
 from the west to the north, we tacked towards the shore 
 in order to run in again, and about eight o'clock we came 
 to anchor inside the castle. Towards evening our carpen- 
 ter and his wife having forgotten something, went ashore, 
 and on their return brought the news that a small ship 
 which had run out to sea further than we did, and had 
 come in again after us, had seen in the morning a ketch, 
 which went to sea with us, taken by the Turks ; for which 
 reason they had now come inside. This news produced 
 not a little consternation in our ship. Whether it were 
 true or not, we did not know ; but we were overwhelmed 
 with a sense of the careful providence of God, who perhaps 
 for the preservation of his children, had directed this storm 
 and caused the wind to change, whereby we were com- 
 pelled to come inside again ; for otherwise, if we had seen 
 any opportunity of proceeding, we would have remained 
 outside. 
 
 2$d, Sunday. The weather was calm. At noon my 
 companion went ashore, while I remained on board. In 
 the afternoon several ships came in, all bringing bad news 
 of there being such and so many Turks on the coast. 
 One said five and another two large ships, and that they 
 had fourteen captured vessels with them ; that twenty-three 
 had sailed from Algiers, and would blockade the entire 
 channel to the Flemish islands. This news was brought 
 6 
 
42 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 by a small ship from the straits, and had reported it to 
 one of those vessels which had run in here. But in the 
 afternoon a ketch came in and sent a boat up to Falmouth 
 to land some persons, and ran out again immediately, 
 without coming to anchor. The boat came along side of 
 us. Mr. Lucas, who came out to our ship with this boat, 
 said that the ketch was cruising for English East India- 
 men, some of which had arrived, and had been cruising 
 several days without seeing any suspicious ships; but had 
 met some French vessels from the straits, which had fired 
 a shot for him to come off to them, because they wanted 
 to speak to him, which he did. He spent an hour with 
 them, for which reason other English ships, which had 
 observed this at a distance, supposed these French ships 
 were Turks and this ketch had been captured by them ; 
 and therefore they had saved themselves by flight. The 
 boat went to the other ships, and on her return brought 
 still more news than we had yet heard, so that we were 
 still in doubt. In the meantime my comrade came on 
 board, and related how he had been to the quakers' meet- 
 ing, and gave me an account of their devotions, preaching, 
 and meals. 
 
 2-ith, Monday. The wind being northeasterly this morn- 
 ing, we raised the bow anchor early; and the other was 
 also wound up. The boat went once more ashore, to fill 
 the remaining empty water casks, in order that we might 
 get immediately under sail; but before the casks were 
 filled, the wind shifted round, and we had to remain where 
 we were. In the afternoon I went with some others to 
 assist in hauling off Margaret's other ship which was 
 aground, and take her to the shipyard. 
 
 Before we leave England and the channel, a word in 
 regard to them may be useful. As to the channel, it is 
 well to observe, that those who have to sail through it 
 should keep nearest the English coast, because it is safer 
 
SOUTHERN COAST OF ENGLAND. 
 
 43 
 
 than the French ; but to keep as close as we did I do not 
 consider best, because there is much calm wind made 
 from the shore, whereby there is slow progress ; and, in 
 the second place, storms or tornadoes sometimes come 
 over the high land during these calms, and as there is 
 then usually much sail set, they fall upon the ship, and 
 cause much inconvenience, as we experienced. Thirdly, 
 because when the wind comes from the sea, you are on a 
 lee shore, and in some danger ; and sometimes if the wind 
 continues, you are compelled to make a harbor where you 
 would hardly otherwise be willing to do, and from whence 
 you can not always readily come out again. It is well to 
 throw the lead in dark and foggy weather, in order to 
 ascertain the bottom, and whether there be any current ; 
 also to calculate the tides at the place where you may be, 
 so as to make good reckoning ; and when the tide stops, 
 to make sail. In case it happen you are compelled to run 
 in anywhere, you should know well where it is, or if you 
 do not, and it is so that you cannot by reason of the night 
 or other obscurity, obtain sight of the land, it is better to 
 lie with light sail off from the shore until it clear up, so 
 that you may not be at a loss when you approach the 
 land, as we were. It is always the practice of a good 
 seaman, and it is proper, to keep well away from the 
 shore, because there are several rocks which lie further 
 out than they are laid down upon the charts, as we have 
 observed, and you are therefore in danger of sailing upon 
 them. 
 
 As to this part of England, and the places of Falmouth 
 and Penryn, where we have been for about three weeks, 
 we have to observe, that from the straits (of Dover) to 
 Land's End the land is high, but higher in some places 
 than others, and is diversified with many hills and dales. 
 The coast is broken and rocky. From Dover to the Isle 
 of Wight it is chalky white ; from thence it is red and 
 
44 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YOKE. 
 
 harder; and towards Land's End, it is black as if it were 
 burnt. Extending inland, the country is beautified with 
 green fields and cultivated farms, among and out of which 
 rise the spires of churches, presenting, as you sail along 
 them, as we did, in the summer time, a pleasant and 
 agreeable prospect. And as the children of God can see 
 the hand of their Father everywhere, they clearly and 
 lovingly see it in this glorious exhibition ; beholding here 
 his power, wisdom, goodness, majesty and purity, and 
 being drawn by it to him ; a sight which for six days long 
 we had now enjoyed. Happy the souls which find God 
 in his works ! What do not they enjoy, wherever they 
 may be, when God lifts, only a little, the curtain, and lets 
 his creatures see him ? Or when he, even before we know 
 it, looks from behind the wall or through the lattice, how 
 soon they know him and how soon they are with him ; 
 how quickly they adore and glorify him; and how soon 
 they unite themselves with him and are lost in him ! But 
 what shall I say? This is for those who.troly experience 
 it, and not for every one. Heaven is for man to behold, 
 who goes with head erect; the earth, with what is below 
 upon it, is for the beast, which carries its head down. 
 The country around Falmouth and to the west of it is 
 called Cornwall because it is so fruitful in corn. 1 Its hills 
 are tolerably high, and it has deep valleys supplied with 
 running streams of fresh water. Although at some depth 
 below the surface, and in some places deeper than others, 
 
 1 This derivation is not more fanciful than that given in the Illustrated 
 Itinerary of the County of Cornwall, referring it to the figure of the county, 
 " which is that of a cornucopia, or horn of plenty." " The truth seems to 
 be that the country was called," says a good authority, 3 Mag. Brit., Ill, 
 "by its ancient inhabitants Kernou, or as the Welsh write it Kerniw or 
 the Horn, from its projecting promontories; that it was Latinized to Cor- 
 nubia ; that when the Saxons gave the name of Wealas to the Britons, 
 they distinguished those who had retired into Kernou or Cornubia by the 
 name of Cornwealas and their country, Cornwall, that is Cornish Wales." 
 
CORNWALL. FALMOUTH. PENRYN. 
 
 45 
 
 there is much rock, and indeed almost nothing else, there 
 is nevertheless much produced from the soil. We saw 
 growing on the highest hills fine wheat, rye, buckwheat 
 and oats, besides good grass, on which cattle were pas- 
 tured, and from which long bay was mown. There were 
 few fruits or garden productions. The fields are not set 
 off by ditches or wooden fences, but by small dikes formed 
 either partly with stones collected from the fields and 
 placed upon a little earth, or entirely of earth, on the top 
 of which they plant small trees and shrubbery, so that 
 their roots may hold them firm. This is not only suitable 
 for inclosing the land, but it affords a pleasant sight like a 
 neat seam on a green or other colored garment. 1 The 
 land also yields very good tin, of which there is a fine 
 mine near Penryr>, where we saw the workshop and mills. 
 The town of Penryn, that is, eyelid, as well as Falmouth, 
 are open towns (not fortified), quite long, having one or 
 two streets laid out on the side of the hill. Penryn is 
 larger than Falmouth, and has a surface stream of fresh 
 water running through its whole length, from one end to 
 the other, affording great convenience to the inhabitants. 
 The town appears very neat and pretty outside, but inside 
 it does not signify much. The houses are built for the 
 most part of stone in their rough state, laid in loam, and 
 plastered on the outside, entirely white, with lime; upon 
 this plastering they throw small pebbles for the sake of 
 ornament, and then draw lines in squares, so as to make it 
 look as if the houses were constructed of large blocks of 
 
 1 This fertility of some parts of Cornwall and almost up to Land's End 
 is fully confirmed by modern statements. "From the Tamar to the 
 Fowey," says the Itinerary, " on the southern side of the county, there is 
 a very fertile district producing immense crops of corn : for here climate, 
 soil, and convenience of lime carriage, all contribute to the fertility. By 
 Mount's bay sixty bushels of wheat have been raised on an acre, and it is 
 said that 1,000 acres around Penzance now let for £10,000 per annum." 
 Mount's bay and Penzaucc are between the Lizard and Land's End. 
 
46 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 stone. The best houses are floored with plank or stones ; 
 in the others there is nothing but earth. The people are 
 quite civil, but very ignorant in religious and godly things; 
 though very shrewd in worldly affairs, especially in en- 
 trapping strangers. Fish is good and cheap. There was 
 once a fisherman along side of us, who asked only ten 
 stuivers 1 for a codfish, which is esteemed there, as in 
 many other places, the choicest of fish. We offered him 
 eight stuivers, but did not obtain it. You cannot procure 
 much merchandise in these towns, as it has to be brought 
 from other places. English goods even, can be bought 
 cheaper in Amsterdam than here, as they have to be 
 carried upon poor small horses, for wagons cannot be used 
 for the purpose in consequence of the steepness of the 
 hills. As to the commerce carried on in their own ships, 
 it is not large, and is with small vessels. The bay or river 
 is navigable to Penryn and no further, where it stops. 
 Falmouth lies in front. It has many inns and taverns, 
 but few churches. The beer brewed here is not heavy, 
 but light and sour, and not very good-tasted. Fuel is 
 extremely dear ; so that bakers, brewers and others who 
 use much fire, burn for the most part, a certain kind of 
 weed or thorn, which grows along the roads and fences, 
 and give out a great heat. From all this you may, in some 
 degree, gather the condition of these places, of which I 
 myself had previously the impression they were large and 
 capital towns. 
 
 25th, Tuesday. The wind being K and K K W., we 
 did not conclude to leave. Mr. Jan alone opposed leaving, 
 so much afraid was he ; but the wind blowing fresh, the 
 captain ordered them about noon to weigh anchor, and we 
 got under sail. "We were scarcely outside, when we 
 perceived two large ships and several others around the 
 
 1 Ten cents. 
 
SCILLY ISLANDS. 
 
 47 
 
 point of the Lizard, at which Mr. Jan was filled with fear. 
 Seeiiag a ketch coming from there, we bore up to her, and 
 inquired what ships they were. They answered they 
 were English ships-of-war, which was confirmed by a 
 fisherman engaged in fishing there, whom we spoke. 
 Whereupon our ship was as full of joy as it had before 
 been of fear. On approaching these ships we found it to 
 be as reported, although we did not speak to them, which 
 was an oversight in the captain, it seems to me, on several 
 accounts. What reasons he had for not doing so I do not 
 know, although they might be easily guessed. They both 
 sailed to the west. When we came off the Lizard, we 
 laid our course for the Scilly islands, although it was near 
 the wind. We sailed thus the whole night W. and W. 
 by S. During the first watch the two ships came close 
 along side of us, and passed us without our speaking to 
 them. They were beating up the channel. 
 
 26th, Wednesday. The wind same as before, and we sailed 
 on our former course. In the morning we could still see 
 the Scilly islands behind us. The sun shining, we observed 
 the latitude at 49° 4'. We then set our course west by 
 south, reckoning our longitude to be 10° 10'. We had a 
 very light breeze. We still saw several ships, but one 
 ship-of-war was still to the larboard of us, which at evening 
 beat before the wind to look, as it seemed, after her com- 
 panion which had fallen behind. We had a light breeze 
 all night, and kept on the same course. 
 
 27th, Thursday. Early this morning we saw a ship on 
 the larboard about eight miles off under full sail, which 
 circumstance revived the fears on board of our ship, for 
 she did not appear to be, as she was, the before mentioned 
 ship-of-war. She was sailing on the same course as our- 
 selves; a practice which privateers or pirates adopt in 
 order to see whether they can sail faster than those they 
 have their eyes upon. But as regards us in particular, 
 
48 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 the Lord caused us to put our trust in him, and held 
 our hearts quiet in him. This fear gradually suhsided 
 when it was ohserved that the ship came no nearer 
 to us. At noon there was a fog, so that the sun 
 could not shine through it, and we could not take the 
 hititude well; hut according to what we did obtain, the 
 latitude did not differ much from that of the day hefore, 
 only some minutes further south. AVe continued on 
 our course a distance computed to he sixty-four miles, in 
 longitude 8° 6'. By evening the hefore mentioned ship 
 was almost out of sight. We had no longer any doubt 
 that she was the ship-of-war. 
 
 28/A, Friday. The wind still X. and N. K W., with a light 
 breeze, and we proceeded "W. and W. hy N., in order to 
 keep due west. The hefore mentioned ship had come up 
 during the night, and was now almost in front of us, and 
 continued thus sailing with us. At noon it was entirely 
 calm; the latitude ohserved was 49° 24'; the distance 
 now was computed to be sixty-eight miles, and found to he 
 sixty miles ; our course was a little more southerly than 
 west; and the longitude calculated to he 7° 6'. In the 
 afternoon the ship-of-war ran south on the other bow, and 
 by evening was so far to the leeward that we could hardly 
 see her. It was very calm, and in the evening and first 
 part of the night, the wind became more and more 
 westerly, so that when the watch was set we could only 
 sail ~W. S. W. The ship was tacked about in order not to 
 fall too far off to the south ; and we could then sail !N". 
 and N. by E., but the wind changed again more to the 
 north, so that we were compelled to keep more easterly. 
 
 29th, Saturday. The wind as we have said, drawing to 
 the north, the ship was tacked about at eight o'clock, sailing 
 with a fine topsail breeze W. by ~N. At noon we found 
 the latitude was 50° 8', so that our reckoning was twenty 
 or twenty-four miles further west than the westerly point 
 
A BLOW. 49 
 
 • 
 
 of Ireland, that is, in longitude about 4° 40'. The before 
 mentioned ship had left us the past night; but before we 
 leave her in our thoughts, we cannot omit to observe how 
 we were touched by the good and fatherly care of God, the 
 Lord, over his children, sending her to this same place, 
 where the danger of the enemy, the Turks, was always to 
 be feared ; sending her there, I say, through his mysterious 
 providence, as a good convoy to meet . their weakness ; for 
 otherwise he alone, and his faithful care are sufficient, albeit 
 * he was pleased to work it out by such means as pleased him. 
 Thus we have not only discovered no enemy, but were 
 conveyed by this ship-of-war, or ships, through the most 
 dangerous part where the enemy was most to be feared ; 
 although these ships intended nothing else than to execute 
 their commission, which was to cruise after the East India 
 ships. Certainly if we did not see the hand of God 
 in this, we were truly blind ; if we were not touched by 
 it, we were indeed insensible j and if we did not tenderly 
 acknowledge it, we had been the most unthankful men in 
 the world. !N"o, no, his spirit inclines and works in us to 
 other things. What reason his children have to rely upon 
 him, to lose themselves and their ways in him ! Praise 
 the Lord, all ye who have so often experienced this, for 
 his faithfulness endures for eternity. Yea, praise the 
 Lord, for he shows himself to be what he is. But this is 
 sufficient, and leaving you to him and in these thoughts, 
 we will, in the same trust, resume our voyage. By 
 evening it was very calm, and the wind westerly, so that 
 we could sail only W. by S., and did so half the night, 
 except when we tacked, and then we sailed, N. by W., and 
 K K W. 
 
 30///, Sunday. It remained quite calm until in the morn- 
 ing, with the wind K 1ST. E., and our course set 
 west by north. About eight o'clock, however, the 
 wind shot out of the south with such a stiff topsail breeze 
 7 
 
50 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 that we turned the helm again, and in the afternoon were 
 able to sail freely W. hy The weather being overcast 
 we could not ascertain the latitude, but calculated it to be 
 50°, and the distance run ninety-six miles. The course 
 was west, a little southerly, and the longitude 3°. At 
 evening it began to blow hard; our topsails were first 
 reefed, and afterwards taken in entirely. We were in the 
 first watch, during which it began to rain so hard, and we 
 shipped so much water from the sea, that there was not a 
 dry place anywhere to sit down; for walk or stand we 
 could not, and so let the water run under us. The man at 
 the helm had the tiller knocked out of his hands two or 
 three times. Our sails, though small, had as much as they 
 could bear, and I wondered why either the sails did not 
 burst, or the masts break ; for our mate let them stand so 
 that every thing that was on them shook and shivered. 
 Before our watch was out the weather appeared to moderate 
 gradually; and when it was out I crept, all wet as I was, 
 into the berth, for there was no other course. I had lain 
 there hardly half an hour, when we shipped a heavy sea, 
 whereby many articles were thrown over to the lee side. 
 My comrade recmested me to feel whether any of our goods 
 and clothing Avhich were lying upon our chest, before the 
 berth, were thrown off which I did; but I could not find 
 either goods or chest. I arose, and went groping about 
 for them; I found the chest below the middle of the 
 forehatch, and lifted it as well as I could, again to the 
 windward. The other articles I found mostly under the 
 berth of the persons opposite to us; when the boatswain 
 coming along with a light, to see whether any of the ship's 
 property was injured, we brought every thing in order 
 again, and found that no damage had happened to the 
 medicines, as we had apprehended. 
 
 Slst, 3Ionday. The wind having become more calm we 
 sailed "W. by jST., but it veering gradually round to the 
 
MEETING SHIPS. 
 
 51 
 
 west, we tacked about again, sailing then about W. S. W., 
 with a rolling sea, and making little progress. We 
 calculated our latitude was the same as yesterday. The 
 distance run was seventy-two miles, and the longitude about 
 1° 18'. By evening took the wind again gradually till we 
 had to furl in our topsails. Course N". 1ST. W. ; in the first 
 watch X. W. ; in the second !N\ W. by W. ; and iu the 
 third W. 1ST. W. ; and so the wind by degrees changed to 
 the south. 
 
 August Is/, Tuesday. It still blew hard from the S. W. 
 "We saw a ship ahead of us to the leeward, coming towards 
 us under full sail, and steering for us in order, apparently, 
 to speak us; but in consequence of the rolling of the 
 sea, she could not come close to us. She flew the flag of 
 the Prince (of Orange), and we the English flag*. She then 
 sailed by us, so that we could distinguish the vessel. She 
 was the Eendracht (Union) of Flissiugen (Flushing), the 
 same one which the East India ship took from the English, 
 and carried to Hamburg in the year 1673. We found the 
 longitude at noon 49° 4'. The wind increased more and 
 more till it blew a storm. We not only took in the topsails, 
 but had to reef in the lower sails, and so lay over the whole 
 night, N". N". W., making little progress. There was a 
 great noise, moaning, and lamentation among the women 
 between decks in the dark, for they could not lie down, or 
 sit or stand, in consequence of the tossing of the ship. 
 But we kept up our spirits and courage. We had several 
 hard showers of rain, accompanied with wind; but after 
 midnight the weather began to moderate, and the sea to fall. 
 It was very cold the whole night, and although it was in 
 the middle of summer, and we were further south than 
 Holland, we had to clothe ourselves well. 
 
 2'/, Wednesday. The wind subsided a little in the day 
 watch, and we made sail again, being able to sail W. by K, 
 with fair speed. The latitude at noon was 50° 39'; the 
 
52 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 distance was computed to be eighty-eight miles; the course 
 W. X. N., and X. W. by W., and the longitude 358°. 
 Daring the night the wind blew sharper again. 
 
 3d, Thursday. This morning, the wind being very fresh, 
 we tacked about and sailed 8.; but about noon, observing 
 two ships to the leeward of us, we tacked back again. 
 These ships observing us, immediately tacked about with 
 us, causing again no little li ar in our ship. One of them 
 was a large ship, the other a ketch ; but in about an half 
 an hour they both left us. They were without doubt ships 
 on their homeward voyage, and would have spoken us, for 
 they laid their course towards the channel. AVe sailed X. 
 "W., and gradually more westerly. AVe were in 51° 21' of 
 latitude, and 357° 10' longitude ; our course was X. W. by 
 W., and distance seventy-two miles. In the afternoon the 
 wind increasing and blowing in gusts, we reefed the topsails 
 and let them stand so for the night. 
 
 4t/i, Friday. The topsails were taken in during the day 
 watch, for though the wind was in the same direction as 
 before, it blew harder and we had to lie to a little in a 
 good rain, thus making but little progress. We found the 
 latitude 51° 49' ; the distance we calculated at eighty miles, 
 the longitude 355° 30', and the course X. W. by W. At 
 noon the wind was due west, so that we could only keep 
 to the north. At evening we tacked over on the other 
 bow, and could then sail S. W. and S. W. by S. But the 
 wind crept back again to the west, with heavy squalls, 
 during the whole night, and finally was "W. S. W. 
 
 oth, Saturday. In the day-watch the wind fell off, and the 
 topsails were again set. The wind was more and more 
 southerly. Our latitude was 51° 9'; the course S., so that 
 we had kept the same longitude and progressed as much 
 as the dift'erence in latitude. The reefs of the topsails 
 were let out and the cross-sails made. The wind then 
 was S. E. and E. S. E., and we held our course with a 
 
WHALES. 
 
 53 
 
 stiff backstay breeze, carrying all sail, and making fine 
 be ad way. 
 
 6th, Sunday. Tbe wind favorable witb a tbick mist, 
 wbicb cleared up about nine o'clock, wben it was quite 
 calm. A girl attempting to rinse out tbe sbip's mop let it 
 fall overboard, wbercupon the captain put tbe ship 
 immediately to the wind and launched the jolly-boat, into 
 which two sailors placed themselves at the risk of their 
 lives in order to recover a swab, which was not worth six 
 cents. As tbe waves were running high, there was no 
 chance of getting it, for we could not see it from the ship. 
 Yet the whole voyage must be delayed; these seamen 
 be sent roving at the risk of their lives ; we, with all the 
 rest, must work fruitlessly for an hour or an hour and a 
 half, and all that merely to satisfy and please the miserable 
 covetousness of Margaret. Such wretched man-servers 
 were these quakers. The jolly-boat came back, and we 
 could not, without great difficulty and damage, get the sailors 
 out of it, and haul the boat on board again. They looked 
 as pale as if they were dead; one of them was poor Robin. 
 Every thing being secured Ave again got under sail. It 
 was so foggy at noon, we could not take the latitude. The 
 calculation was, it was four miles less than yesterday. 
 Our course had been W. S. W. and W. by S. ; the distance 
 run was about eighty miles; the longitude 353° 20'. In 
 the afternoon the wind being ahead we had to lay over on 
 the other bow, and then we could only sail W. N. W. ; but 
 by evening it began to blow and rain so hard that the 
 topsails had to be taken in, and the mainsails struck. We 
 were sailing on a cross sea, by reason of which our ship 
 pitched so much that we could not stand or sit ; but about 
 midnight the weather moderated, the sky became clear ; 
 though the ship tossed still more than before. 
 
 7///, Monday. At day-break it was entirely calm, with 
 the wind to the west, so that we drifted, with muzzled 
 
54 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 sails, in fine weather and sunshine. The latitude ohserved 
 to-day was, 50° 58'; the distance run was calculated to he 
 thirty-two miles; the entire course held about west. It 
 remained calm the whole day and the following night. 
 
 8th, Tuesday. We had drifted in this way all night ; but 
 in the morning, there sprung up a light breeze from the 
 east, which shifted a little to the north, and increased so, 
 that we soon set sail, and for some hours made good 
 progress. About nine o'clock we saw a large fish, some 
 said it was a pots-hop, 1 others that it was a North-caper 
 whale. 2 He had remained long enough with his back 
 above water to be seen, spouting the sea- water high up in 
 the air, like smoke. He swam close by the ship, before 
 and behind; so that we all looked at him, his tumbling 
 affording us a sweet and innocent amusement. In the 
 meanwhile it continued misty and rainy. The wind was 
 3ST. E., and the course S. W. by W. We calculated the 
 latitude to be 50° 30'; the distance forty miles; and the 
 longitude 351° 50'. The wind fell off towards evening ; 
 though while the sails remained wet, we went ahead 
 tolerably fast, which encouraged the passengers as well as 
 the others. 
 
 9th, Wednesday. The wind and course the same as before ; 
 the weather misty and rainy; and the progress good. 
 Although we were now midway between the Land's End 
 and Newfoundland, we saw to day a small bird, a sort of 
 snipe. It was a little smaller than a virvitan. I think I 
 have seen the like in Frieslaud; but we had noticed 
 every day so many other water fowl, that I did not observe 
 this one particularly. In consequence of the fog, we took 
 no latitude, but computed it 49° 30' ; the distance sailed 
 one hundred and twenty miles ; the longitude 349° 25' ; 
 
 The spermaceti whale. 
 
 The ordinary whale from the North cape. 
 
PORPOISES. 
 
 55 
 
 and the course S. W. by W. In the afternoon it was still ; 
 in the evening more so ; and at night we drifted along 
 becalmed. 
 
 10th, Thursday. In the day-watch the wind was from 
 the west. We had for some days perceived fish, and did 
 again to day, but we could not catch any. There was also 
 a large whale or fin-fish near the ship, which we could see 
 fully. About eleven o'clock, we observed a large ship 
 ahead of us on the larboard. Every one immediately was 
 alarmed again. The 'wind being at the same time from 
 the east, we sailed S. and S. by E., in order to remain to 
 the windward of the ship, which continued sailing in 
 company with us thus the whole day. We found the 
 latitude at noon, 49° 6' ; the progress made was calculated 
 at seventy-two miles ; the longitude 347° 20', and the main 
 course W. by S. Towards evening, the ship hoisted her 
 sails, which still more excited suspicion. Night coming 
 on, and she being yet to the leeward, almost out of sight, 
 the wind too being south, Ave ran straight before the wind, 
 due north, without any light in the binnacle, in order that 
 no flickering might be produced which would enable it to 
 be seen from a distance. It was calm, with occasional 
 breezes, and we sailed so the Avhole night. 
 
 llth, Friday. The wind during the day-watch again S. 
 E., and more easterly, and we accordingly lay upon our 
 old course, S. S. W. We looked after ships, but could see 
 none, which allayed the fears of the passengers, and 
 especially of Mr. Jan, who, however, imagined he had 
 seen the other ship yet this morning. "We obtained the 
 latitude, which was 49° 16' ; the course about W. by K; 
 the distance according to the log-board of yesterday till 
 now, was about thirty-two miles. At times we had a light 
 wind, at others it was calm, and so it continued the whole 
 night. The longitude was 346° 20'. 
 
 12lh, Saturday. We were somewhat aroused at night, by 
 
56 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK 
 
 two large whales, which swam in the dog-watch 1 close up 
 to the ship, and drove sleep from our eyes hy their hard 
 blowing. It was pleasant and diverting in the clear 
 atmosphere to see them. In the day-watch the sky began 
 to be overcast, and a good wind to blow, which kept 
 increasing till noon. During the morning there were many 
 tunny fish around the ship or sea-hogs, for their heads and 
 snouts are just like those of swine, and when they are cut 
 open, so are their entrails. 2 They amused us with their 
 quick swimming and tumbling. The harpoons and pikes 
 were made ready, but none of them were struck. We 
 found the latitude at noon 48° 58'; the course, W. S. TV., 
 the calculated distance forty-four or forty-eight miles ; and 
 the longitude 345° 25'. In the afternoon the breeze 
 increased still more, and put all in good spirits ; but our 
 hearts ascended higher, and adored the giver of the wind, 
 who brings it forth from his treasury when it pleases him. 
 The breeze was fresh out of the northeast, and our course, 
 TV". N. TV". ; and so we advanced. 
 
 13///, Sunday. This morning the wind and course were 
 the same as before, with misty and rainy weather, which 
 made the sails tight, and aided our progress. There 
 were many tunnies this morning around the ship, which 
 again diverted us by their exhibitions and celerity; but 
 none of them were harpooned. It was so foggy we could 
 not obtain an observation of the sun, which we preferred 
 to miss rather than lose the headway we were making, 
 TVe computed it to be 48° 20'; the distance run one 
 hundred and twenty miles; the course TV. S. TV., a little 
 more west; the longitude 342° 30'. TVe had now for 
 several days had an entirely different air, which felt sweet 
 and agreeable, especially when the weather w T as clear and 
 
 1 The two short watches between 4 and 6 o'clock, and 6 and 8 o'clock 
 p. m. are called dog-watches. 
 
 2 Porpoises.- 
 
HALF-WAY ACROSS. 
 
 57 
 
 fine ; and even when it was cloudy and misty it was not 
 so cold or sharp, hut very pleasant and desirable. I knew 
 I breathed differently from what I did before. There was 
 no moon, and we made rapid progress; and it seemed the 
 whole night, as if we were sailing through fire, in 
 consequence of the sparkling of the water. 
 
 14th, Monday. From noon yesterday, and so on the night 
 through, we had made very good progress, though not so 
 great as the day before, the wind being somewhat lighter 
 and more northerly, and during the night 1ST. ~W. 
 Last evening we had a great many porpoises around the 
 ship, which, after supper, again amused us. At night the 
 sea sparkled, and other fish appeared near the ship, bennets, 
 dolphins and others, but we could not catch any of them. 
 Our course was still W. S. "W., with a light breeze. As it 
 was cloudy we could not obtain the latitude, but calculated 
 we were in 47° 30' ; our progress one hundred and four 
 miles; longitude 340° 30'; the course W. S. W. The sea 
 had been for several days so smooth that the ship went 
 ahead almost as gently as if we had been sailing on a 
 river; but to-night we feared this would not last long, 
 for we began to have some great threatenings out of the 
 1ST. N". W. The wind also pulled so we could not sail 
 sharp by the wind. So we ran S. ~W. by "W., with fair 
 progress. It began to blow a little more, and we took in 
 the top gallant sails. 
 
 15^, Tuesday. The wind W. if. W., so we kept on our 
 old course, and made rapid headway. About ten o'clock in 
 the morning, we saw a ship ahead of us to the leeward, 
 doing her best to come up to us; but not seeking or 
 caring for that, we sailed a point higher, that is W. S. W., 
 our old course ; and continuing on this course, we saw that 
 we outsailed her, and she fell off directly behind us. The 
 sun broke out occasionally, and we endeavored to obtain an 
 observation, but we could not hit it exactly, in consequence 
 8 
 
58 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 of the clouds and rolling sea; and I dared not, therefore, 
 trust my own altogether. It was 40° G'; the computed 
 distance one hundred and thirty-six miles; the main course 
 S. "W. by W., a little westerly. "We reckoned we had at 
 noon to-day completed half our voyage, and we raised our 
 hearts to God in thankfulness that he Lad hitherto preserved 
 us by his fatherly care. Being now out of danger from 
 the Turks our enemies, and as we thought, for the most 
 part, from storms, we supplicated him to continue his 
 blessings towards our persons, and towards the purpose to 
 which he has called us, in order that we may perform it 
 with gladness and sincerity of heart, to his glory, unto 
 the going down of the sun. The sea began to be smooth 
 again, and the wind to abate. 
 
 16/A, Wednesday. In the day-watch it was perfectly calm. 
 At day-light, we found ourselves between two ships, one 
 lying close by us to the windward, with mizzen sail hoisted, 
 and the other lay astern of us to the leeward, they being 
 in company, as it appeared afterwards. We perceived still 
 another vessel as far as we could see, behind us. We did 
 not know what to think of all this; sometimes we kept up 
 good courage; at other times we were fearful, the more so 
 because when we showed our colors none of them did the 
 like. The one astern of us, being the largest, did her 
 best to pass us, or rather to get up to her companion. As 
 we hauled off a point or two of the wind, our course 
 being thus S. S. W., and a little breeze springing up at the 
 same time, each one went her way; and as they sailed 
 off by the wind, we gradually separated from them. We 
 had no doubt they were French ships bound for Xewfound- 
 land or Canada. In looking at the water we saw the 
 color was changed as if we were on soundings, which we 
 did not doubt, because our reckoning or calculation made 
 us asrainst the false bank of Newfoundland. About ten 
 o'clock we saw another ship ahead of us, sailing on the 
 
BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 59 
 
 same course as the others, so that we ran across her. As 
 it was sunshine and calm, it was a good opportunity to 
 take the latitude. I found it 44° 35'. The course was S. 
 TV. by TV", and TV. S. TV., which entirely agreed with our being 
 as we thought this morning, upon the false bank of Terre 
 Neuf. The distance run was one hundred and twelve miles, 
 and the longitude 335° 30'. Although I heard that I 
 differed in my reckoning from all the others, except the 
 mate, which I did not know, I adhered nevertheless to my 
 own. At noon we saw a piece of wood drifting, similar 
 to a hanging ladder with which they climb trees, and some 
 sharks swimming in sport and continually tumbling around 
 it. TVe threw out a hook baited with a large piece of pork, 
 but could not catch any of them. By evening it was quite 
 calm, and in the night still more so. 
 
 17th, Thursday. In the day- watch the wind was S. E., 
 and S. S. E., but light, though we could keep our course. 
 The water was smooth and the sky clear, with an entirely 
 different atmosphere from that over the sea in Holland. 
 The breeze, however, began to increase gradually, and at 
 noon we went forward finely. TVe saw another ship ahead 
 of us, on the larboard, sailing west, like ourselves. TVe 
 were able to take the latitude very exactly, and found it 
 44° 16'. Our progress we calculated at thirty-two to 
 thirty-six miles, but setting our plan on the chart of 
 increasing degrees upon the obtained latitude, according 
 to the course sailed, we found we must have gone a greater 
 distance. There must either have been some current, or 
 the plan of the foregoing day did not stand southerly 
 enough ; for it should have stood at 35' and did stand at 
 58', that is 23' difference. The longitude was 333°. TVe 
 expected to see some signs of the bank of Newfoundland, 
 as we had for a day or two sailed through very many 
 guallen or galls, besides some little mizzcns or galleys, which 
 are a kind of galls, drifting or sailing upon the water, 
 
* 
 
 60 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 having membranes like a small sail, in the form of a 
 mizzen or galley sail, from which they are so called. 1 These 
 were all signs of the hanks of Newfoundland. However, 
 I dared not trust myself entirely, because others who had 
 so much more experience in those things than I had, did 
 not make us so far west. At noon it blew harder, and we 
 had a rolling sea from the S. S. W., so that our topgallant 
 sails were taken in. The sea did not look entirely blue nor 
 black, as it does where there is no bottom, but a clearer 
 green, almost the same as you see in running out of the 
 channel ; but about six o'clock in the evening, we observed 
 the water had perceptibly changed greener, but by dark it 
 was all gone again. We judged from this circumstance, 
 that we had sailed certainly over a point of the great bank, 
 as our calculation showed. 
 
 18/A, Friday. The wind continued N. N. E. and K, and 
 we kept our course. We observed some paleness in the 
 water. My good friend having eaten last evening some 
 salted fish, cold, and only with a little vinegar, was seized 
 in the night with a severe pain in his stomach, but having 
 taken about nine o'clock a little warm wine, with Spanish 
 soap, he vomited and felt better, and began to rest and 
 recover, for which we were tenderly sensible of the goodness 
 of our Father. This morning a ship ahead of us to the wind- 
 ward, came straight down upon us, evidently with the design 
 of speaking to us. We braced the foresail to the mast and 
 waited for her. As she approached she let fly the English 
 
 1 Besaenties of galleytks. Reference is here made to a species of vivified 
 substance, — the physctlis pelagicus, commonly called, by sailors, the 
 Portuguese man-of-war, which floats like the nautilus upon the surface of 
 the sea, with its body inflated in order to catch the wind, as a sail, and 
 with tentacles extending below to guide it. The common stinging gall of our 
 waters belongs to the same family. Our word gall as applied to such 
 fishy matter, seems to be a local word, handed down to us by the Dutch 
 settlers. 
 
IN LATITUDE OF SANDY HOOK. 
 
 Gl 
 
 flag, and we immediately did the same. She ran astern of 
 us, and we hailed her. She was from the West India 
 islands, bound for England. We told them where we 
 were from and where hound, and how it stood with 
 England and France ; with which they were content, and 
 sailed on their course, and we on ours. We found the 
 latitude at noon 43° 34'; the distance eighty miles, and the 
 longitude 334° 20'. In the afternoon it began to blow hard, 
 and we reefed our topsails. The wind kept increasing 
 more and more, and at evening we could sail only W. by 
 S., and in the first watch, only west. It blew so hard that 
 the topsails were taken in ; and the wind sharpening up 
 still more, we wore around about midnight and steered S. 
 S. W., making little headway in consequence of the rolling 
 of the sea and the short sail on. 
 
 19th, Saturday. The wind abating somewhat at day-light, 
 the topsails were set again; but the wind afterwards 
 springing up on the other bow, we could at last only sail 
 southerly. The latitude at noon was 43° 12'; the whole 
 distance run from noon yesterday was sixty miles, and the 
 longitude was 330° 20'. In the afternoon we saw weeds 
 drifting, which grow on the bottom of the sea, and in 
 Holland, on piles which stand in the salt water, by which 
 we were confirmed in our belief that we were on the banks. 
 We had not had for a day or two those heavy swells, but 
 short and pushing ones as they are in the North sea, beating 
 against each other. We could now sail only S. by E. and 
 S. S. E., but the wind afterwards running out we sailed S. 
 by W. and S. S. W. 
 
 20th, Sunday. The wind being still westerly, we sailed 
 S. by W. and S. S. W., and it blowing a little harder, we 
 reefed our main topsail again. A whale aroused us for 
 a while with his tumbling around the ship. We saw also 
 flying fish, from which we supposed there were dorados or 
 other fish near by, but we neither saw nor caught any. 
 
G2 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YOKE. 
 
 We found the elevation of the pole above the horizon at 
 noon to be 42° 12' ; the course due south ; the distance from 
 bestek to bestekf sixty to sixty-four miles; and of course the 
 same longitude as before, 330° 20'. The wind continued 
 westerly, and we made no great progress. 
 
 21s/, Monday. The wind kept the same, and we 
 continued the same course. The latitude was 40° 34', 
 being that of Sandy Hook in New Xetherland, and we only 
 wished now an easterly wind which might carry us about 
 twelve hundred miles westerly. The distance traversed 
 was eighty to eighty-four miles; the longitude 330°; and 
 the course nearly S. by "W. Our cooper was a little 
 Priesland boor from Bolswart, whom Margaret had hired 
 for four years, for twenty-eight dollars a year. He had to 
 work hard at his trade on board the ship, although his 
 wages were not to commence until he reached land, 
 It has been frequently a wonder to me that he has not 
 recognized me, for he has at * * * *. 2 
 
 Ilendrick, the ship's pump-maker, worked a little at our 
 house, where I have seen him myself, and although he 
 claimed no acquaintance, he complained to me at times 
 how Margaret had cheated him, and all who were now in 
 her service. He began to-day to make some buckets in 
 which he could not succeed very well for want of tools. I 
 had compassionating blood, and helped him make them right. 
 I made him a bucket, at which Mr. Jan and the captain 
 
 *We adopt this word from the Dutch of the journal for the sake of 
 convenience, as there does not appear to be any corresponding word in 
 English. It is used to indicate a plan or plot marked out on a chart for 
 the purpose of designating the course of a ship during the preceding day, 
 or any other given time, and the point attained in sading, during that 
 period. It is employed in the present instance in the text, metonymically, 
 to signify the time of day of making the plot or plan. From bestek to 
 bestek therefore means here, from noon of the preceding day to noon of the 
 clay under mention. It seems to have been a kind of traverse table. 
 
 2 This blank occurs in the original, in which it is left purposely unfilled. 
 
A SUNSET AND FULL MOON. 
 
 63 
 
 were highly pleased, and that perhaps was the reagon why- 
 Mr. Jan was so liberal of Margaret's property, for he gave 
 every one of our mess a glass of Madeira wine, which was 
 quite a wonder, for we had never seen any thing of the 
 kind in him. Towards evening the ship was washed out, 
 and in doing it, they found a sea-cat asleep which was not 
 longer than a finger, but really monstrous. "We supposed 
 from this circumstance we were near dorados or dolphins, 
 but we discovered none. The wind was somewhat northerly, 
 so that we could sail S. W. and ~W. S. "W"., but it changed 
 back again afterwards. The sea, which was exceedingly 
 smooth, and a very clear and soft sky, made the evening 
 hour extremely fine. The sky, with thin transparent snow- 
 white clouds upon its glittering blue, was adorned by 
 a bright, clear setting sun, which, in proportion as it 
 declined and departed to another world, there to display 
 the splendor which the creator has bestowed upon him, 
 changed these clouds from white to shining brightness, 
 and imparted to them for a while the golden luster of 
 his fire. The sky around was not a pure sky-blue, but 
 was of a mixed blue and green, sparkling like the flame 
 when copper is brought to a glowing heat; that which 
 was nearer the sun being more like the sun, and that 
 further removed from him, gradually fading into bright 
 blue mingled with silver; so that we not only saw all the 
 colors of the rainbow, but all hues and colors, all shining 
 according to their natures, with a brilliancy of their own, 
 displaying them in that perfect splendor, which is so 
 agreeable, and capable of enrapturing man. But one of 
 the greatest beauties to be observed was their wonderful 
 unity or harmony, or blending together ; for although these 
 colors and shining splendors were as manifold as the 
 degrees and minutes, yea points of removal from their 
 centre, the sun, which shone the brightest and most, yet 
 one could not discover where they separated or where they 
 
64 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORE. 
 
 united,* or even a point where one could be distinguished 
 from the next, so united were they all, and so manifold 
 and distinct was their unity without being divided. And 
 although all this had a great and starry brightness, it was 
 nevertheless so moderated and tempered through all the 
 diversity of colors that we could not only look at each 
 one in particular, but also the whole together, yea even at 
 the sun itself, the centre of this lordly perspective, and 
 distinct from these surrounding splendors, as the extreme 
 point of their concentration. No part lost any thing by 
 viewing the whole, and the whole lost nothing by viewing 
 a part, nor did any one part lose by viewing any other 
 part, nor the most excellent by viewing the least, nor the 
 least, by viewing the most excellent, so exact was their 
 unity in their multiplicity, and their multiplicity in their 
 unity. ISTo sooner had their glorious beauty left us, than 
 turning around we saw not indeed the same, but its 
 expression and projection, in a full moon, coming up in 
 the east, as the sun was setting in the west. And as the 
 one had shown himself like burning gold, the other showed 
 herself as well polished, or burnished silver, upon the same 
 field as the sun had done, but according to her nature and 
 power and color ; for as the sky and the clouds which were 
 next the sun participated most in the color of the sun, so 
 those nearest the moon had the greatest resemblance to 
 the moon. These indeed were as white as snow and 
 transparent, so that the light of the moon shining through 
 their white thinness gave them a luster like silver and that 
 upon a heaven's blue field. The outermost clouds were 
 black or dark, while the outermost of the other (the sun) 
 were a pure white, so that the one began with a color and 
 glory with which the other terminated. 
 
 The peculiar feelings which the Lord excited in us over 
 these and the like occurrences are not the material for the 
 relation of a voyage. They can be expressed in some 
 
PORPOISES AND FLYING FISH. 65 
 
 other place or perhaps never. lie is master, and does as 
 it pleases him. 
 
 I have strayed far out of my course, and must look 
 again upon the compass and see how we sailed. It was 
 about S. S. W, and S. W. by S., through the whole night, 
 during which it was very warm. In the day-time we were 
 on deck, under the sails, which threw down upon us much 
 of the wind they received, so that we did not feel the heat ; 
 hut at night and in our berth it was much greater, because 
 there were so many persons shut up close together, the 
 greater portion of whom were women and children. Right 
 over our berth was the mate's wife with one child sick with 
 the measles, and another one which we expected every 
 moment to die, and to which we rendered our services by 
 giving our medicines, as well as to others ; yes, and even 
 to Margaret, after providence had shown they were needful 
 to any one, as well as any thing else we might have which 
 the Lord had given us by his goodness. 
 
 22< /, Tuesday. The wind having shifted a little, as we 
 have said, we could sail only S. W. and S. ~W. by S., with 
 a light breeze and a smooth sea. The weather was fine and 
 pleasant, but warm, so that we were dressed in somewhat less 
 than our summer clothing. Many began to go bare-legged ; 
 and to sleep out of their berths. "We found the latitude at 
 noon 39° 27', the course S. W., the distance computed at 
 ninety-two to ninety-six miles, and the longitude 328° 24'. 
 "When we came from table at noon, we were diverted with 
 a very pleasant exhibition upon the smooth and level 
 surface of the sea. A great fleet of porpoises came from 
 the south, extending as far off as we could see, leaping 
 and tumbling with such swiftness and speed towards our 
 ship, that it seemed as if they would certainly have taken 
 it by storm. It is incredible how far they sprang up into 
 the air; but us they came near to us they checked 
 themselves, and went swimming, leaping and tumbling 
 9 
 
<;i; 
 
 VOYAUE TO NEW VORK. 
 
 around US. One of the largest of them sprung full the 
 length of a man high out of the water, and cutting capew 
 in the air, made every one laugh; then fell backward* 
 between two waves and disappeared heneath them, and 
 wo saw him no more. This was the final exhibition in the 
 scene, which lasted half an hour, and then they all left. 
 There were flying fish also flying out of the water while 
 the others were swimming in it. Some are of opinion 
 that these do not fly, but only spring out of the water; but 
 I ain certain such persons have never well looked at this 
 fish, or observed how it flies. Jt is about the size of 
 a herring, though we saw none as large as that during the 
 voyage ; it is more like the smelt. Close behind the head 
 where other fish usually have two small fins, the flying fish 
 has two long ones, which when stretched out, reach nearly 
 to the tail. The fins' have five or six little bones in them, 
 which beginning at the end of the fin run finer and finer 
 to nothing, and constitute the strength of the fin. You 
 never see this fish spring out of the water like other fish, 
 and fall in it again ; but it comes from the water not upward, 
 but like an arrow shot from a bow, spreading its two fins 
 like wings which it does not flap as the feathered tribe 
 does, for it is not of that nature ; but moves them quickly 
 and gently, the same as a certain insect which I have seen in 
 Europe, and which in Friesland they call coolwachter and in 
 the land of Cleves rontbout. It is true it does not fly high, 
 although sometimes it flies as high as a ship; nor far, yet as 
 far as a musket shot ; but whether it be true that it cannot 
 fly any further, because its wings are dry, or because it 
 has no power to sustain its body longer in the air, which is 
 more probably the truth, or for both reasons, I cannot say, 
 nor do . I believe any body can. It flies seldom alone, but 
 in schools sometimes of hundreds together. Fish in the 
 sea swim together much in schools or fleets, and it seldom 
 happens when you see a fish of a certain kind alone that 
 
A MONSTER MACKEREL. 
 
 67 
 
 there are not more of the same sort to be seen about. 
 When a school of other fish, whether dorados or others, 
 come among a school of flying fish, which serve as food 
 for them, and the large fish hunt the flying fish for this 
 purpose, the flying fish strive to save themselves by flying. 
 This is en passant. The view of these fish was much more 
 agreeable than the sight and smell of a quantity of spoiled 
 salted fish among our provisions, which was so offensive 
 you could not stand near it, and which was being dried so 
 that it might be used in the ship. The wind freshened up 
 in the evening so that we could only sail S. S. W. and 
 S. W. by S., and thus we proceeded the whole night. 
 
 23d, Wednesday. The wind continuing almost the same, 
 our course was nearly the same, sometimes a little less, and 
 sometimes a little more than S. W. by S. There was a 
 light breeze, beautiful and clear weather, and a smooth sea. 
 This was delightful. If one could always have such sailing 
 on the sea, it would be a very agreeable business. The 
 cheerfulness which such fine weather excited in us was dis- 
 turbed when we saw the captain, looking like a dark cloud, 
 beat our cook severely with a rope, for some trifling reason, 
 as they said ; but as he is a cpiaker, we will take occasion 
 to describe him and his, in another place. The latitude 
 to-day was 37° 51' the course kept S. S. W., the calculated 
 distance 112 miles, and the longitude 327° 30'. At noon 
 we saw a turtle drifting past the ship, quite large, and lying 
 asleep on the surface of the water. We saw also a school 
 of flying fish. The wind and our course continued the 
 same, not only until evening, but all night. 
 
 24th, Thursday. The wind being still westerly, our course 
 was mostly S. W., with a light breeze, calm sea and clear 
 sky; but the wind began to shift gradually to the north so 
 that we could sail S. W. by W., and finally W. S. W. 
 Towards noon the wind ran N"., and K by E., but we con- 
 tinued to hold our course. Our latitude at noon was 36° 
 
G8 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 32', the course S. AV., the distance 104 miles, and the longi- 
 tude 325° 56'. In the afternoon the wind improved still 
 more, so that it was due east, when we sailed AV. hy S., and 
 this continued all day and night, with a good top-sail breeze, 
 
 25fh, Friday. We sailed till eight o'clock in the morning 
 AV. by S., when we changed our course to the west, having 
 sailed upon the former course according to calculation 88 
 miles. The wind was now E. N. E., and thus for the most 
 part we sailed before it, and therefore our bonnet sails were 
 made. AVc observed dolphins or dorados ne ar the ship, 
 which arc agreeable to look at, especially when they are 
 swimming. AVc did our best to catch or strike some of 
 them, but without success. The latitude at noon we found 
 to be 35° 37', the distance sailed 124 to 128 miles, and the 
 longitude 323° 48'. 
 
 26lh, Saturday. The wind still N. E., and we kept our 
 course AV., and AV. by N., with a light breeze, fine weather 
 and a smooth sea, making fair headway. Although we had 
 hitherto caught no fish, one caught itself during the night. 
 The fish line had been left trailing out behind the ship, by 
 which means it had been caught, and dragged along. It 
 was not only dead, but the belly was all burst open, by 
 reason of the quantity of water which had been forced in 
 it, for his mouth was wide open with the hook and line in 
 it. It had strained the line so that the line itself was 
 almost parted. It was almost like an eel, or rather a gcep} 
 It was so hideous and looked so savage, that my companion 
 inquired if it were not a sea-devil. As he had heard of 
 sea-devils, he thought this certainly was one. I had never 
 to my knowledge seen the like, except only the picture of 
 one at Amsterdam, caught under the equinoctial, and 
 
 1 A small fish of a sea-green color, with a long pointed nose like the beak 
 of a snipe. It is caught by means of nets, by thousands along the sea shore 
 of Holland, at certain seasons of the year, and is used to bait hooks to catch 
 other fish. 
 
FIVE WEEKS FROM FALMOUTH. QQ 
 
 painted on account of its rarity. I have sketched it here 
 as well as I could. 
 
 Its flesh, when it was cooked, was quite good, tasting 
 almost like a mackerel's. 1 Our latitude at noon to-day was 
 36° 14'; the course held W. by 1ST.; the distance sailed 112 
 miles; and the longitude obtained 321° 40'; and so our 
 progress continued this day and the following night. 
 
 27th, Sunday. Every thing went on sweetly during the 
 night. The sky was beautiful and the sea still. Our course 
 west with a light breeze. For two days, now, we had per- 
 ceived a motion of the sea from the S. E., which sometimes 
 forbodes such a wind. We found the latitude 36° 6', having 
 been carried a little south, which sometimes happens from 
 the swaying of the rudder, or it indicates sometimes a 
 current. The distance Ave had run was seventy-five miles, 
 the course more ~W\ than W. by S. At noon the wind 
 shifted round to the south. The longitude was 320°. The 
 mate came at noon to-day, while I was putting my bestek on 
 the chart, and looked at it. He was surprised that I was 
 so far west. He said I differed 320 miles from him, which 
 might well be, as I had never put my knowledge in 
 practice, and could not now use any thing except compasses 
 on the chart ; but the result will show how it was, though 
 we recalled afterwards how doubtful he was in his language 
 on the subject. 
 
 1 It appears to have been the Spanish mackerel. 
 
70 
 
 VOYAGE TO NKW YORK. 
 
 2Hth, Monday. The wind continued with a light breeze, 
 and our course was due west ; as the wind was a little 
 more on the side, we set more sail, which drove the ship 
 more rapidly ahead. The sea rolled a little out of the 
 8. S. E. and S. ; its color Avas changed, as if there were no 
 bottom. The latitude was 35° 52', so that we had gained 
 a little south. Tlie distance we calculated at 80 miles. 
 The course was S. and W. by 8., and so continued during 
 the day and night. 
 
 20///, Tuesday. During the night we had some gusts of 
 wind, accompanied witb lightning and rain. For several 
 days it had been very hot. The wind then changed from 
 the S. H. to tli>- S. and S. S. W., with heavy swells of the 
 sea from the S. AV. "We had for several days past seen 
 some arrowtails, a species of bird like sea gulls, and so 
 named because their tails ran out shaq>, like an arrow. 
 They are entirely white, with the exception of a little black 
 on the head and extreme tip of the wings. They are 
 somewhat smaller than those I have seen in the (West 
 India) islands. They kept flying around the ship con- 
 tinually, as it' they wanted to alight, but when they saw 
 the people they flew away. We sailed close by the wind, 
 W. by N. and W. N. W. The latitude at noon was 36° 
 17', the course W. by N"., the distance sailed 64 to 68 miles, 
 and the longitude 318° 20'. It was five weeks to-day since 
 we left Falmouth, and we estimated we were still about 
 950 miles from our place of destination. Before evening 
 the wind was S. S. W., so that we could not sail higher 
 than BT. X. W. and X. AV. It shifted at length to W. and 
 W. K W., so that we had to sail X. and K by E. About 
 midnight we had a severe gust of wind with much thunder 
 and lightning and heavy rain. We wore ship half round 
 to the south, and were able to sail S. W. and W. S. W., 
 although soon afterwards the wind subsided. 
 
 30/A, Wednesday. The wind was W. S. W., and we there- 
 
BEGINNING OF A STORM. 
 
 71 
 
 fore steered N. 1ST. W. and 1ST. W., with a rolling sea, but 
 not a hard Mow, and thus could make little headway. The 
 arrowtails still flew ahout the vessel, and some of them 
 came nearer. Our latitude was 36° 59', the course kept 
 W., the distance sailed 60 miles, and the longitude 
 310°. The wind veered more and more to the west, and 
 we could only sail S. S. W. and S. W. by W., with a light 
 breeze, and making slow progress. This continued the 
 whole afternoon, but in the night it became entirely calm. 
 
 ol.v/, Thursday. The wind was very still, and we steered 
 the same as yesterday ; but we did nothing except drift. 
 We were in hopes, however, of a good wind, and it 
 seemed with some probability, for the sea swells came 
 strong out of the north, and there were also heavy swells 
 out of the south and S. S. W., which struck very hard 
 against each other, and caused the waves to roll high in 
 the air, and retarded our progress. We observed a large 
 sea pike near the ship, six feet long, but we could not catch 
 it. We could not obtain the latitude in consequence of the 
 rain. We reckoned our course S. S. W. and S. by W. ; 
 the distance 32 to 36 miles, and the longitude 315° 20'. 
 We had again a pleasant diversion in a large school of 
 porpoises, which came springing out towards us as if each 
 one wished to be the first near the ship or into it ; but after 
 they had sported about half an hour they left us. In the 
 afternoon the wind blew from the south, but not steadily. 
 The billows drove against each other so that they stood 
 like mountains. A little later the wind began to blow 
 faintly from the north, and towards evening more and 
 more from the east, when the swells in the south and the 
 north began to strike against each other, although the wind 
 came between them from the east, as if to separate them. 
 About the third hour of the evening-watch it thundered 
 and lightened so frightfully that we were all stupified and 
 blinded. The sea ran so high that we worked lustily to 
 
72 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 take in all sail as soon as possible, in order to prevent our 
 being upset. The mainsail was lowered and furled, but 
 we kept up a little sail afore. We sailed then W. by N., 
 and sometimes W. by 8., till in the day-watch, when the 
 wind changing from the east to E. by S., with thunder and 
 heavy rain, we made gradually a little more sail, but we 
 were quickly compelled by the squalls to take it in again. 
 This was in the night, when we saw several meteors which 
 sat upon the mizzen-mast and yard arm, which is generally 
 considered a sign that the storm is at its highest and will 
 soon abate; but how this rule may be, we had some 
 experience, and will mention. We also heard a great 
 screaming of sea gulls and other birds, which now in the 
 dark flew around the ship and above the masts, the like of 
 which the mate and others, who had long navigated the 
 sea, said they had never heard before. 
 
 September 1st, Friday. The wind still E. and E. S. E., 
 with a stiff breeze ; but the great swells from the S. and 
 S. S. W, as well as from the north, continued, by which 
 we were tossed about the same as we had been for several 
 days. We were afraid the ship's boat might be thrown out 
 of its place, as it was not too firmly fastened, and cause us 
 great inconvenience, which we already began to experience 
 from some full water casks which stood on deck, and were 
 rolling about loose, and which we had great difficulty to 
 bring right. We could not obtain the latitude this noon, 
 in consequence of the cloudy sky. We calculated it to be 
 37° ; the distance sailed 80 miles, the course W. by K, and 
 the longitude 314° 10'. The before mentioned birds re- 
 mained with us still. We saw also two flocks of other 
 birds, of fifteen or sixteen each; they were larger than 
 starlings, and of a black color. They flew about the ship. 
 We observed, besides, great numbers of fish continually 
 springing out of the water. At first we supposed they 
 Avere springers, a species of fish so called because they are 
 
SPECTRES OFF THE BERMUDAS. 73 
 
 continually jumping up out of the water; but these were 
 larger and like haddock. We also saw a turtle. All these 
 signs denoted land, and the weather indicated the Ber- 
 mudas, that is to say, the Bermuda storms, for I do not 
 know that they ever pass this island without encountering 
 a storm. Long experience has established the fact ; and 
 the old mariners call it the sea of devils, not only because 
 it is never passed without a terrific storm and heavy 
 thunder and lightning, but also on account of the appari- 
 tions of frightful forms and faces and other spookery, 
 which appear, some really such, and some frivolous. How 
 it was in the first discovery of strange lands and wilder- 
 nesses, we cannot now say, or determine from present 
 experience, because such things have happened heretofore 
 which no longer occur. As to the storms, they are 
 established facts; as to the sights, they are not without 
 probability, and they were confirmed, to some extent, in 
 my mind, by our mate, who had passed by this island 
 several times, and had never failed of the storms ; and as 
 for the sights, he told me that being once close to the island, 
 beset by a severe storm and a dark night on a lee shore, it 
 seemed as if the air was full of strange faces with wonderful 
 eyes standing out of them, and it so continued until 
 daylight. He told this without any leading to such things, 
 or without having ever heard what I myself had read 
 concerning them. It was in my youth that I had read of 
 them, in a little book called De Silver Poort-Klock (The 
 Silver Gate-bell). This island lies in 30° 32' north latitude, 
 and 313° 40' of longitude; but nearly a degfee further 
 west than it is laid down on the charts, as the mate told me 
 he had observed. It is a small, but very fertile and healthy 
 island, about seven hundred and sixty miles from the main 
 land of America, and of all its neighbors bears the best 
 cedar now to be obtained. I have conversed with persons 
 who said they had had, at the same time, the cedar of 
 10 
 
74 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 Lebanon and the cedar of the Bermudas, and they could 
 not discover any difference between the two, and the 
 Bermuda was as brown and strong as the Lebanon. This is 
 rendered probable, to some extent, because the island, 
 lying in the middle of the sea, has a cooler atmosphere. 
 It produces plenty of oranges, apples and lemons, which 
 the English who live there carry by ship loads to Virginia, 
 New Netherland and Xew England, where they do not 
 grow, in order to sell them, as I have observed myself in 
 Xew Xetherland ; and 1 think also tobacco, sugar, indigo, 
 ginger, speckled wood, Campeachy wood, &c. It is some- 
 what rocky around it, and has, on the north and west 
 points, great reefs which extend far out into the sea. This 
 island we were now passing, at a distance of about 260 to 
 280 miles to the north by cast. 
 
 2'/, Saturday. The wind had been increasing through the 
 whole night from the S. E. In the morning we saw some 
 flocks of birds flying around us, a kind of small snipes like 
 those of Xew Xetherland, as some passengers said, who 
 recognized them. We could obtain no observation to-day 
 in consecpicnce of the cloudy sky. While going ahead 
 with a strong S. S. E. wind, sailing west, we had heavy 
 rolling from the south. AVe reckoned the latitude 36° 30', 
 the distance 160 miles, the course W. by S., and the 
 longitude 314° 20'. In the afternoon the wind blew so by 
 degrees from the S. S. W. and 8. W., that we had before 
 evening taken in all our sails, and ran along without any 
 sails at all at the rate of 120 miles in twenty-four hours, 
 but not long. It was such frightful weather that I am 
 unable to describe it. 
 
 The heavens were entirely shut off, and not the least 
 opening was to be seen. The wind blew so hard from the 
 S. S. W. and S. W., that it was incredible; for when we 
 stood close by each other and called out as loud as we were 
 able, we could scarcely hear or understand each other. 
 
A TERRIFIC STORM. 
 
 75 
 
 The billows ran as high as mountains ; yes, as mountains. 
 They were extremely large and majestic, and exhibited the 
 great power of their creator, as pleasing as they were 
 fearful to us to behold. They rolled on with an inexpres- 
 sible order and gravity, moving slowly and loftily. 
 They were dark and grey in color, and bore upon their 
 round backs other small waves, from which the wind drove 
 off into the air so much water incessantly, that it flew like 
 smoke or snow over the sea without the least diminution. 
 This flood of flying sea water had such a direction over the 
 ship, which was lying across the sea, that we could not 
 see during the day from the stern to the bow ; and at night 
 we could not see the least thing before our eyes. Although 
 these large billows did not pour, for if they had done so 
 we could not have withstood them a quarter of the time, 
 yet the water of the small waves had such a passage to the 
 ship that it was as if it were constantly thrown from 
 above ; and it came with such force and in such quantity 
 that the ship could not discharge it through the scuppers, 
 but was all the time under water. "We had taken down 
 our topmast early, and struck the yards and secured them 
 against dangling. The rudder, which was held by two or 
 three persons, and which was sometimes turned to avoid 
 the falling of the sea, was several times wrested out of their 
 hands, and those who had hold of it thrown from one side 
 to the other upon one another, in great danger of being 
 injured by the tiller or otherwise. Several times they came 
 running up because they supposed the tiller was broken, 
 although it was made entirely of iron. The compasses, 
 which were wet continually, could hold no point in conse- 
 quence of the terrible rolling of the ship, which rolled so 
 awfully that the yard arm seemed every time to touch the 
 great billows on the windward side. Every thing bent and 
 cracked so that you could hear nothing else. There were 
 no means of going about, or standing, or sitting, or lying 
 
76 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 down, but you had to do all these things together, as well 
 as hanging on, in order to keep yourself secure, whether 
 you were in your berth or out of it. It was as if you were 
 in the sea, except that the water came falling on the head, 
 and so over the whole body. Mouth, nose and eyes were 
 so full of water from the spray, that \ou could not draw a 
 breath or see. All were constantly wiping their eyes and 
 blowing their noses, like boys swimming. Our eyes 
 suffered the most, for they felt as if they were frosted with 
 sand or water. They bound a flag to the back stay or 
 miz7,enmast, before their eyes, in order to see how the 
 wind shot, but they had to go close to it before they could 
 see it, and it was not there a long time before it was blown 
 into a thousand tatters. Indeed, I cannot describe how 
 wretched it was. I was on the first watch, although there 
 was not much watch kept. In short, the sea air and water 
 were so mingled together you could scarcely discern where 
 they separated ; and so it was day and night. I stood 
 much by the mate, in order to help him watch the pouring 
 of the sea. "We imagined several times we saw openings 
 in the sky, which led us to believe there would be a 
 change, but they were merely the falling of the sea, so high 
 did it run and so much did it fill the air. It continued so 
 all night, and even seemed to increase. My watch being out, 
 I went below — not to sleep, for there was no probability 
 of that, but to rest myself somewhere on a chest, wet as I 
 was. Even that was not to be done, for the casks and 
 chests were all loose and being thrown from one side to the 
 other, so there was danger of being injured. As there was 
 no one else there to assist in making them fast, Grerrit, the 
 passenger, and myself, did our best endeavors to do so, and 
 after much scrambling succeeded in putting them in place 
 a little. It was not, however, much better below than 
 above deck, for all the hatches being shut it was so close 
 and confined that one seemed to be stifled with a stinking, 
 
THE STORM INCREASES. 
 
 77 
 
 burning air, which, if it had continued long, would have 
 produced sickness. The pumps had to be kept going all 
 the time, for, although the ship was tolerably tight below 
 water, she was very leaky above ; and so much water came 
 down the hatchways, although they were covered with 
 tarpaulin, that it was the same as if water were poured 
 down on our heads. To put on dry clothes was not to be 
 thought of, as it was equally wet below and above ; and 
 even if we did not put our heads out, the first wave which 
 broke over the ship made us as wet as before. As day 
 approached the storm rather increased than diminished. 
 Hearing a clamor, I went on deck again, in order to see 
 what the Lord might will concerning us, and arriving 
 above I beheld a sad prospect indeed. The ship looked as 
 desolate as if she had already suffered shipwreck ; the 
 mainmast swinging to and fro, the shrouds and ropes 
 attached to them flying, their chains and chain bolts loose, 
 the pumps choked with sand, gravel and pebbles, and their 
 spouts broken. The carpenter was called, in order to 
 repair the pumps, which kept him constantly at work. He 
 cursed and swore at Margaret, because there was no leather 
 in the pump, which was true, for there had been only a 
 little in it, or the leather was like duck, and also because 
 there were no more spouts, of the necessity of which he 
 had warned her at Amsterdam, but which were not bought 
 by her through parsimony, disregarding what the carpenter 
 told her. I did my best to pacify him. He was a wicked 
 wretch, and unwilling because he could not have a 
 moment's rest. He had afterwards to secure the mast, 
 whereupon he raved and swore anew at the captain, and 
 declared he would not do it unless they first threw over- 
 board the jolly-boat, which was over his tool-chest, for the 
 captain had set the chest in the boat, and had placed the 
 jolly-boat upside down over the boat, so that the chest 
 could not be got at as easily as he wished, and he had, on 
 
78 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 that account, grumbled and scolded throughout the whole 
 voyage. The captain attempted to strike him. Tin; sailors 
 cursed and swore at each other. I had told the mate 
 dining the night that this drifting across seas could not 
 continue long without sail, and that the course was to take 
 below all that was on deck, or we would be turned upside 
 down, or stove in, by a single wave. Now I heard that 
 the captain and mate were disagreed on this point, the mate 
 proposing and wishing to make some sail, the captain 
 interposing objections, either because he did not under- 
 stand it, or because he was afraid of the sails. Observing 
 this, and knowing our danger, my heart rose to God that 
 he would look upon us in our condition, and be merciful 
 to us in whatever manner he might be pleased to treat us, 
 committing ourselves into his strong and gracious keeping. 
 This was while the captain and mate were standing 
 together, and having their conversation. I made bold and 
 went up to them. I told the captain that sail should be 
 made aft, if it were not more than a hand's breadth, or else, 
 to all appearances, it would not continue long with us; that 
 this would turn the ship against the sea. He made diffi- 
 culty. I said they could try it with a bonnet, stretching it 
 from the main shrouds to the niizzen shrouds, when they 
 would see it would help them. Meanwhile, feeling my 
 heart touched and tender, I went below to tell my comrade 
 our condition. I embraced him and committed him, and 
 he me, to our beloved Father, in case there might be no 
 opportunity afterwards to do so, if he were pleased further 
 to dispose of us. He dressed himself as well as he could, 
 and we clambered on deck, one behind the other. He was 
 astonished at seeing us in such a state, and was able to tell 
 how it was, although ignorant of many particulars. He 
 posted himself aft, before the hut, on the larboard side, to 
 the windward, under the tent ; but he had not stood there 
 long before a sea came over the gunwale, breaking 
 
THE STORM SUBSIDES. 
 
 79 
 
 everywhere, and streaming over him. He turned his back 
 to it, and said he never felt such a weight. In such cases 
 one must hold himself fast where he is, or he will be 
 washed overboard. In the meanwhile they were busy in 
 doing what I had proposed, and succeeded, with great 
 difficulty and danger, in fastening the bonnet from one set 
 of shrouds to the other. As soon as it was done they 
 found relief for the ship, and that she resisted the waves 
 better ; and it encouraged them immediately to see if they 
 could not make more sail, and even set the mizzen-sail. 
 The mizzen-yard was below and all hands were called to 
 get it up. They fastened the sail upon the stoot garen, which 
 was not very good; and therefore before it was hoisted 
 half way up, the stoot garen broke into pieces, and the sail 
 was blown quickly to tatters, which was not to be wondered 
 at, for the sail was very old. This was dangerous work 
 for the poor sailors, who were dispersed here and there, 
 and liable to be struck by the sail, and some of whom were 
 hanging and dangling from the ropes over the sea ; but 
 none of them were injured. The yard arm was hauled 
 down again, the old sail taken off, and a new mizzen-sail 
 brought out set upon better stoot garen, and hoisted as it 
 had to be. They immediately found it to be a great help. In 
 the mean time, I went to my comrade, who observing me 
 was much affected, and said to me, le Seigneur s'elevera et nous 
 sauvera. Indeed, the weather was then at its worst, and 
 continued so till noon. There were no means of eating 
 or drinking any thing, except small pieces of dry bread, 
 when any could be found dry, for it was most all wet which 
 could be got at ; and much of that in the bread room, was 
 wet with salt water. The water, which was to be had was 
 brackish. We had great alteration either from working 
 or from the flying salt water which we had taken in through 
 our mouths and noses ; and it was necessary for us to take 
 a little strong drink. In the afternoon some said it began 
 
80 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 to moderate; but so slowly they could hardly work. They 
 therefore let every thing be as it was. As the storm had 
 arisen slowly, so it subsided even more slowly. When the 
 weather began to moderate my comrade inquired of several 
 persons who had been much at sea, and of one who had 
 made three voyages to the East Indies, whether they had 
 ever experienced such weather, and they said they had 
 not. Neither had L There are, however, always some 
 persons very haughty as to what happens to them, and so 
 now, there were one or two who said they had seen worse 
 storms. What they may have seen I do not know ; but 
 this I do know, that this one was something extraordinary, 
 according to all that I had ever heard, or could conclude 
 from other sterns of which I had heard or read. It is not 
 to be supposed that those are greater in which many ships 
 are lost, for that happens frequently when the storms are 
 not habSeo severe ; or that those are lighter where there 
 are none lost, as in this case; for that is according as it 
 pleases the Lord, who makes it light or heavy for the 
 accomplishment of his purposes. ' I remarked this storm, 
 or the force of this storm, was very high up in the air, 
 whereby the sea was driven up so high, and so slowly, 
 and so easily, that is, rolled without breaking by reason, 
 perhaps, of the great depth there. 
 
 When I reflect upon what the Lord thus exhibited to 
 me, what power, what majesty, what gravity, order and 
 regularity, what glory, what grandeur and extensiveness, 
 how many of his attributes, did he display, such as when, 
 by his infinite power, he created all things. So much 
 does he manifest these perfections where he works, and 
 after he works, which is only a continuation of his power 
 and attributes in part, as he has shown them in the whole. 
 But especially what a glorious picture did he vouchsafe to 
 represent to us, over a small part of the earth, of what he 
 did over the whole earth, at the time of the deluge, when 
 
CATCHING DOLPHINS AND SHARKS. 
 
 81 
 
 he swept away all that was upon it. These sentiments I 
 have expressed in a measure before ; and perhaps the Lord 
 will cause them to be still better expressed, for he permits 
 such things to come before us in order that we may see as 
 in a glass who he is, and that he always works according 
 to what he is, that is, all his works are worthy of him, 
 especially those which he does extraordinarily, and so that 
 we can apprehend them. It is certainly to his greater 
 glory, and for the purpose of teaching us to know who he 
 is, and who we are, so that we may learn to fear him, and 
 give him what belongs to him. Amen. This doleful 
 Sunday passed, the wind gradually abated; and so we 
 passed the night. 
 
 4th, Monday. The wind having subsided, they were early 
 on hand this morning to repair damages. It looked wretch- 
 edly enough. The topmast was raised, the yards hoisted 
 up and sail made. Every one looked as weather beaten as 
 if he had been in the water, as indeed was the fact. The 
 hatches were opened through which an air and dampness 
 issued as from an oven ; and clothes and bedding were 
 brought on deck to be dried and aired. The ship was so 
 full of them up to the round top that she looked strange 
 from the outside. They lay all over the ship as thick as if 
 it had been the North Market at Amsterdam. Every 
 thing had become Wet. There was not a berth which had 
 been tight or free from water. We let those who were 
 most in a hurry go ahead, and as there was no room for us 
 we took the next day to ourselves. The ship was turned 
 to the south, for the wind has shifted round a little more 
 westerly. "We obtained an observation at noon, and found 
 the latitude was 37°. We reckoned the distance we had 
 sailed and drifted at sixty to sixty-four miles ; the course 
 west by north; and the longitude 313° 8'. At noon we 
 were drifting in a calm ; the fish came shooting up from 
 below, and many dolphins were near the ship. Although 
 11 
 
82 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 we did our best we could not catch any of thorn. "We 
 drifted thus the whole afternoon and night, which happened 
 very well, as it afforded every one on board an opportunity 
 to rest, for all were tired out, and we particularly so. My 
 eves were so sore that I could hardly open them. Whenever 
 I looked at a candle, many rings, colored like the rainbow, 
 appeared around the flame. All my limbs seemed as if 
 they were broken, and I also suffered much internally. 
 
 5th, Tuesday. It still continued calm. We caught a 
 dolphin early in the morning. It is a very pretty fish, a 
 species of round fish, but flat on the sides. Its color is a 
 sky-blue ground with a golden hue over it, and I observed 
 the older it is the more golden it is. On account of this 
 golden appearance, I believe it is called dorado by the 
 Portuguese, who doubtless were the first to eat it, when 
 they began to make their long voyages. On the blue skin 
 there are spots of a darker blue, which look pretty, and are 
 set off by the gold color. It has no scales, or very small 
 ones; its fins and -tail are very bright, and exhibit great 
 brilliancy when it is swimming. Its flesh is good but 
 rather dry, as is the case generally with all sea fish. The 
 captain had this one prepared and dressed with sauce ; it 
 was good and refreshed and strengthened us very much; 
 but when we went to breakfast, we found there had 
 happened a great misfortune to our mess. All our butter 
 had been lost during the storm, through the negligence of 
 the person having it in charge. The latitude at noon to-day 
 was 36° 45', the distance sailed forty miles; the course W. 
 by K, the longitude 312° 20'. Shortly after midday we 
 caught a shark which had been swimming for an hour along- 
 side of the ship. He was so heavy that it was as much as three 
 of us could do, to haul him on deck. When we got him 
 in the ship, every body had to keep out of his way. He 
 tried hard to bite, for which purpose there were three rows 
 of teeth in his mouth close to each other. They endeavored 
 
SCRAPING THE SHIP. 
 
 83 
 
 to thrust a stick of wood down his throat, into his belly, 
 in order to prevent his biting; but he struck around lustily 
 whenever they came near him for that purpose. They cut 
 off his tail with an ax, thus depriving him of his greatest 
 power, and he soon bled to death. They then opened his 
 head and took the brains out, which were as white as snow ; 
 these are esteemed a valuable medicine for women in 
 childbirth ; for which pm-pose the English use it a great 
 deal. They also skinned him. The skin when dried is 
 used to smooth and polish woodwork. If the sailors wish 
 to eat the flesh they cook it by the fire as ours did ; but 
 this desire generally passes oft' with their first voyage, for 
 the flesh is not good for much. It is like that of the 
 thorndike or scate, but hard, and of a strong flavor. There 
 is only one bone in the body, the back-bone, which the 
 sailors cut out and preserve as a rarity, and make buttons 
 out of it for their frocks and trowsers. We also caught several 
 small fish of different kinds, like the carp, sole, seableak 
 and others. The calm continued nearly till midnight, 
 when a light breeze sprang up out of the south, and we 
 continued sailing west. It was now six weeks since we 
 left England. 
 
 Qth, Wednesday. The wind, and our course remained as 
 before. The sailors were still employed in repairing the 
 ship and rigging. We found the latitude to-day to be 36° 
 56'; the computed distance sailed forty-eight miles; the 
 course mostly west, and the obtained longitude 311° 20'. 
 We caught another dolphin which happened well for us. 
 We kept our course as before ; and at night the wind began 
 to freshen up a little. 
 
 7th, Thursday. The wind was S. S. W. ; the course W. 
 N". W., with a topsail breeze, fine weather and smooth 
 water. The sailors commenced scraping the outside of 
 the ship, in order to dress her up and make her look well 
 by the time we arrived in port. They smeared her over with 
 
84 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 a mixture of grease and tar, so that she might not look 
 brown ; and this pride and man-pleasing did not offend 
 the cmaker spirit Mr. Jan performed a Roman feat this 
 morning, catching a dolphin with his hook, which he had 
 been trying to do for three weeks. Another was 
 stuck with a halberd. The latitude was 37° 47', the 
 distance sailed we estimated at eighty miles, the course held 
 was mostly 1ST. W., the longitude 309° 56'. In the afternoon 
 the wind shifted to W. S. W. entirely, and we could only 
 sail N. W., and K W. by N. It was quite calm during 
 the night, but there came up a frightful storm of thunder, 
 lightning and rain ; we lay almost all night drifting with 
 muzzled sails. 
 
 Bth, Friday. It continued calm. "We employed ourselves 
 fishing, as there were daily many fish round the ship, and 
 caught a few small ones. The sailors finished scraping 
 the ship. We could get no. observation of the sun to-day; 
 but we set down the latitude at 38° 8', the distance run 
 thirty-six miles, the course W., and the longitude 309° 
 1G'. Shortly after midday the wind veered round during 
 a thunder storm, to the N. E., and gradually increased to 
 blow. We changed our course to W. by N., and by 
 evening were compelled to take in sail. We saw several 
 pieces of stakes drifting along, from which we supposed 
 we were appproaching the land. Towards evening we 
 threw the deep lead, in order to see if we could find bottom, 
 but we did not succeed, although we cast 120 fathoms ; the 
 lead was too light and the ship drifted too much. "We sailed 
 during the night, W. by X. and west, and made fair 
 progress. 
 
 9th, Saturday. It did not blow so hard during the night, 
 and by daylight the wind fell off still more. We obtained 
 the latitude at noon, namely, 38° 16' ; the course was a 
 little more north than west, the distance 100 miles, the 
 longitude 307° 30'. The color of the water was changed 
 
A SHIP FROM VIRGINIA SPOKEN. 
 
 85 
 
 to a paler green. I saw a stick of dry wood drifting, like 
 a piece of a bough, which induced all of us to believe we 
 were near land. It was so calm in the night that our ship 
 boxed the compass. We had not seen a finer sky during 
 the whole voyage, so clear and so still. 
 
 10th, Sunday. During the day-watch a breeze sprung out 
 of the northeast. We kept our course W. and W. by N"., 
 but the wind fell off before noon, and we drifted in a calm. 
 The sea began to be a little covered with reeds and stubble, 
 which we regarded as more signs of land. Numerous dol- 
 phins and other fish, besides small sharks, came near the ship, 
 but we could catch none of them. "We cast the deep lead 
 at noon, but found no bottom. We had 38° 39' of latitude, 
 the progress we had made was over twenty miles, the 
 longitude was 307° 25', and our course had been W. 
 We all longed for a good wind, to take us speedily to the 
 end of our voyage. The calm continued all night. 
 
 11th, Monday. A breeze began to blow with the coming 
 of the day. We caught several dolphins, one of them over 
 five feet in length. About ten o'clock we saw a ship to 
 the windward or larboard, when we luffed up, and she 
 came towards us, and reached us about 12 o'clock. We 
 hauled in our sails to wait for her. She showed English 
 colors, and we did the same. We launched the jolly-boat, 
 and our mate went on board of her, and after a little while 
 returned, bringing her captain with him. She was an 
 English ship from Guinea, and last from Virginia, which 
 she had left three weeks previously. She had encountered 
 many storms and contrary winds- Many of her crew were 
 sick, and Margaret sold the captain a hogshead of ship's 
 beer, for which her little daughter 1 was honored with a 
 good lump of gold. We had expected some refreshment, 
 
 1 This (laughter was Annetje, or Anneke Filipse, then aged nearly 
 twelve years ; she became the wife of Philip French. 
 
8G 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 but there was nothing to be had for money, though some 
 good apples were presented to Margaret. We asked him 
 for his reckoning, which he told us was 270 leagues from 
 Cape Henry, in the Virginias, differing considerably from 
 ours, for that would make us 040 miles from New York, 
 whereas my reckoning made it from 392 to 400 miles. 
 However, all the other reckonings were different, one 
 more and another less. The mate was nearest his, and 
 the captain furthest off, as the mate said. This English- 
 man had made a mistake, as we afterwards discovered. 
 Each one, nevertheless, kept his own chart. Our captain 
 went on board the other vessel to see whether we could not 
 obtain some vinegar, of which we were in want, as we had 
 none, owing to the terrible parsimony of Margaret, of 
 which I will speak hereafter. I never saw so many dol- 
 phins as there were around this English ship. They kept 
 leaping up continually against her. The Englishman, in 
 parting from us, about four o'clock, in order to show his 
 civility, came up close along side of us, whereby many of 
 the dolphins playing around his ship came to ours, and we 
 caught some of them. In parting, he discharged several 
 musket shots, but we did not return the salute. We had 
 a small breeze, and with that we laid our course to the 
 west. Every one had been so occupied with this English- 
 man that no one had taken the altitude except myself. I 
 found the latitude 39° 29', the distance could not be more 
 than sixteen miles. As the weather was so calm, and we 
 were under no headway, and had been carried almost a 
 whole degree to the north, we concluded there must 
 be a very strong current running in that direction. 
 Towards evening the water changed. We sailed on 
 several courses during the night, and afterwards drifted 
 a little ahead. 
 
 12th, Tuesday. When we came on deck we observed the 
 water had changed still more, and was very green, as if 
 
ANOTHER STORM. 
 
 87 
 
 from the bottom. The fish had all disappeared, which 
 caused us to think we were certainly on soundings. The 
 deep lead was thrown about noon, but they went at it in 
 such a grumbling and growling manner, and the ship 
 going ahead, that nothing resulted from it. We had made 
 only twelve or sixteen miles sailing, and yet we were again 
 an entire degree further north, for on taking an observation 
 we found we were in latitude 40° 25', and, in point of fact, 
 not far from land. The longitude obtained was 306° 40'. 
 All this made us think of what the Englishman had said 
 yesterday, but, under the circumstances, we thought we 
 could not be where he said — the strong current, and the 
 chopping of the sea, and its color — which made us con- 
 sider whether we might not be about Cape Cod or Sandy 
 Hook, as my bestek stood on the chart. I believed we were 
 on the shoals of Cape Cod, fifty or sixty miles from land, as 
 the result proved. The waves beat against each other very 
 much from the northwest and south, and by evening the 
 sky became overcast on all sides. We were apprehensive 
 of a storm, and therefore took in all the sails ; but it 
 turned into a very heavy rain, without much wind, which, 
 however, was northeast, and we had necessarily to keep off 
 shore. We set our course S. W., and S. W. by S. The 
 wind began to blow towards evening, and increased in the 
 first part of the night. It rained nearly all night, which 
 made us sail close and go ahead bravely. 
 
 13th, Wednesday. The wind and our course remained the 
 same, under a stiff topsail breeze and a rolling sea, the , 
 color of which was changed to black. As soon as it was 
 day we put on all sail until noon. We could obtain no 
 latitude, but reckoned we were in 38° 4', the progress 
 upwards of an hundred miles, the course S. W. by S., and 
 the longitude 305° 30'. We hoped this wind would carry 
 us over. It was blowing E. by S., and increased so that we 
 had to take in the topsails. It turned into a very severe 
 
88 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 storm in the night, and the wind gradually veered round 
 to the west. 
 
 14//*, Thursday. This hard storm came from the- S. S. W. 
 "VVe took in all sail, clewed up the foresail, lowered the 
 yards with great difficulty, struck the mainsail and reefed 
 it, so that we were prepared to lie hy. We steered S. S. E., 
 hut the wind from the S. W. was exceedingly heavy, and 
 although the sea did not run so high as in the last storm, 
 it was more driving, and short, and gave very severe 
 blows. The large bowline broke into pieces, and we had 
 to strike the mainsail in order to repair it; but as for 
 getting it up again there was little chance, for it struck so 
 frightfully in hoisting it we were afraid the topsail would 
 fall, or the nail itself fly into tatters. We had no oppor- 
 tunity to observe the latitude, but reckoned it to be 38° 30'; 
 our progress was nothing, or 12 or 16 miles further south, 
 and consequently the longitude was the same as before. 
 In the afternoon, about four o'clock, there rose a very heavy 
 sea, which not only threw itself into the mainsail but over 
 the whole deck, so that the ship could hardly rise again. 
 "We stretched a bonnet again from the main shrouds to the 
 mizzen shrouds, in order to relieve the ship, and enable her 
 the better to oppose the seas ; but about seven o'clock in the 
 evening there came a sea which not only covered the 
 whole ship but it broke with such force it seemed as if the 
 ship would go to the bottom. They did not know how or 
 whence it came, nor how to get rid of the water. From 
 this time the weather seemed to moderate gradually, the 
 wind blowing from the west, and afterwards K K W., and 
 thus the storm passed off. I have not described the par- 
 ticulars of this storm, which, although it was not so severe 
 as the other, nevertheless was neither better nor worse, 
 because the other storm was high in the air and on deep 
 water, for which reason the sea ran very regularly and 
 slowly, but here the sea ran short and confusedly, hard and 
 
DAMAGE BY THE STORM. 
 
 89 
 
 pushing. All the power of this storm was below, upon 
 the water, which was not so deep. The sky over head was 
 clear, and was never obscured, during this storm, except 
 towards the horizon, where it was like flying mist. The 
 ship suffered more than she did before, the mast became 
 loose again, the rigging broken in pieces, the vanes flown 
 away, and every thing stripped. 
 
 15//;, Friday. The wind which was N". W., and N". W. by 
 'N., having subsided, the hatches were opened, the sails 
 spread, and every thing repaired and put in order. It was 
 cpiite calm, and we sailed S. "W., and afterwards W. S. W. 
 The carpenter having to go behind the stern of the ship 
 for the purpose of opening the window of the cabin, dis- 
 covered that the sternpost was split from top to bottom, so 
 that it hung and swung by the planks of the ship, and 
 when she was moved by the waves, you could thrust your 
 whole hand in, on either side, and that whether the rudder 
 or the ship was moved by the sea. He then went into 
 the hold, and found the deck was rent or burst its whole 
 length and drawn off from the sides, although the ship had 
 been repaired the last time she was in Holland. Prom 
 this circumstance it can be judged whether the last storm 
 was not as severe as the first. TVhen the carpenter 
 communicated to the captain the condition of the stern- 
 post, the latter gave a grim laugh and shook his head, as 
 if it were of no importance ; but afterwards, when he went 
 himself to see it, he quickly changed his opinion. It was 
 found to be a matter of serious consideration. Those 
 whose business it was, were called together to devise means 
 how it might be repaired and made fast at once ; which it 
 was determined should be done. The day was occupied in 
 restoring lesser articles, every one drying his little goods 
 and drawing his breath. Dolphins came around the ship, 
 some of which we had hold of, but they escaped from us. 
 We saw a vessel ahead of us on the larboard, but we did not 
 12 
 
90 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 go towards her. Our latitude at noon was 37° 30'. We 
 could not calculate our progress. We had first drifted N. 
 W., and then as much K E., and afterwards, by the 
 stiffening of the wind, south, so that we remained in about 
 the same longitude. In other particulars this storm did 
 not differ from the other. At midnight we had a slight 
 breeze and made sail again, with clear moonshine and fine 
 weather. 
 
 Wk, Saturday. The wind gradually .shifting to the south 
 and increasing, we went finely ahead. As soon as it was 
 day, all hands began to work in good earnest at the broken 
 sternpost, which was found to be much worse than was 
 supposed yesterday. They worked the more earnestly 
 because it would not have stood long. They put a large 
 iron ringbolt on one side of the stern and a broad iron hook 
 on the other. A good thick rope was then made fast to the 
 ring or the hook, and a small part of the sternpost cut 
 away for the rope, and the rope was thus passed behind 
 the sternpost and taken to the capstan. It was wound 
 round as often as it would conveniently go through the two 
 rings, and then each of the coils was spiked upon the 
 sternpost, and thus the sternpost was brought close to the 
 planking. Two pieces of timber were afterwards let into it 
 and well spiked at each end, and this it was believed would 
 hold. In the meanwhile the wind began to blow again 
 from the southwest with a cloudy sky, and we could not 
 obtain the altitude, but we reckoned it the same as before. 
 The course was west, the distance sailed eighty-eight miles, 
 and therefore the longitude had changed 1° 28'. We 
 hoped this wind would have brought us upon the coast, but 
 in the afternoon it increased so much, that we had scarcely 
 finished the sternpost and made fast the iron rudder pin, 
 which had become loose from the beating of the sea, when 
 we thought the storm was again upon us, from the indications 
 of the sky and the wind. Every thing was accordingly 
 
SIGNS OF LAND. 
 
 91 
 
 again put in order and made fast, the top gallant mast was 
 taken down in order to prevent the swinging of the mast, 
 as it was loose before ; and the topsails were reefed, and 
 afterwards taken in, for the reason that we observed in 
 the 1ST. W. a very black cloud rising against the wind, 
 accompanied with thunder and lightning. The nearer this 
 cloud came up the more it swelled. It struck us amid- 
 ships, whereby the water chopped and rose very high. 
 "We took all sail in and struck the yards. A very heavy 
 rain followed, some of which I caught, and for once refreshed 
 myself by drinking my full; and others followed my 
 example ; for we had not much beer, and our water either 
 stunk or was brackish, such of it as was on deck and the 
 sea had beaten upon. It cleared up considerably, however, 
 and the moon shone; but the weather nevertheless continued 
 uncertain, mingled with lightning. A breeze springing 
 up from the the east about nine o'clock, all hands set to 
 work to increase our sails and set them before the wind. 
 At midnight they were all taken in again, as the sky 
 became overcast, and there was much thunder and lightning 
 with rain, which continued till day-light. 
 
 17th, Sunday. About three o'clock in the morning, the 
 wind having changed to the S. W. and W., we again made 
 sail, and the wind then turning further to the north, we 
 changed our course again. We came among many small 
 fish called springers, because they spring out of the water. 
 They were about the size of whiting, but we could not 
 catch any of them. I saw a sea hedge-hog as large as the 
 fist, with prickles on its body in proportion. It was 
 speckled, and provided with four paws, by means of which 
 it swam like a rat. Its head was small, and its body 
 round, but flat underneath, like a St. James's shell. The 
 latitude to-day was 39° 16', the westing about 24 miles and 
 northing 20 to 24. About six o'clock in the evening the 
 wind shifted more to the north, and we could only sail 
 
!»_' 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YOKE. 
 
 N. N. E., so we lay over and sailed 8. W. The wind 
 veering still more to the north, we steered gradually more 
 to the west, under reefed topsails. We observed in the 
 evening again that the water was green, a sign we were 
 near the shore. 
 
 18///, Mmuhiif. The sea having became somewhat 
 smoother, and the wind coining from the X. and X. X. K. 
 over the land, we sailed due west. The sea was more blue, 
 indicating it was deeper water, and that we had sailed 
 during the night away from the land. At eleven o'clock 
 it became green again, which made us think we were 
 approaching the other shore on the west, or that we were 
 sailing over a shoal. We observed a blue dove flying, 
 which was regarded by all as a sign of our approaching 
 land, and reminded us of the dove coming back to the ark 
 of Noah, as a messenger of the drying up of the earth, and 
 soon to go out of the ark in the liberty of God's favor and 
 peace ; and thus we were coming near the land, and would 
 soon go out of our prison, where we had by his will been 
 so long shut up with so many unclean beasts, going out in 
 his favor and peace, wherever he should carry us, and 
 making an offering of ourselves to his service. The 
 latitude at noon was 39° 24', the distance made good sixty 
 miles, the course held W. by N., and the longitude was 
 304° 4'. The weather was fine, and the sea rolled no 
 more. The lead was thrown in the evening, but it did 
 not reach the bottom. The wind continued the same all 
 night. We threw the line again at midnight, but without 
 success. 
 
 19th, Tuesday. The wind was still X. E. and E. K E., 
 and we held on our west course with tolerable progress. 
 The sea was now a paler green. The latitude was 39° 6', 
 and we had advanced, according to our calculation, upwards 
 of one hundred miles, on a course a little south of west. 
 The longitude was 303° 30'. Some were several days out 
 
BOTTOM FOUND. 
 
 93 
 
 of their reckoning, and I would have been also if I had 
 not discovered the mistake and rectified it. The lead 
 thrown towards evening did not yet show any bottom, as 
 they said, though it was doubtful. We sailed all night 
 with a light breeze and a clear moonshine, which, indeed, 
 was another mark of God's favor and preserving care 
 towards us, that we should fall upon the coast with a full 
 moon, and not when there was no moon. Certainly he 
 watches over us in our sleep, and nothing can happen 
 otherwise than according to his providence. 
 
 20th, Wednesday. The wind continued easterly, and our 
 course westerly. We saw again several signs of being 
 near land, such as different kinds of snipe and other small 
 birds; also stubble; sea weed ; little red strings, like coral, 
 a sea plant which grows on the coast ; rock weed, and other 
 weeds floating on the water. About ten o'clock a cloud of 
 mist came in from the 1ST. W., which demonstrated pretty 
 well to my mind Long Island and the part of the mainland 
 south of the bay towards the South river. I thought 
 whether it might not be the dew drawn up by the sun 
 from the land there, and driven over our heads by the 
 wind. The wind changed to the north, but when these 
 clouds had passed by us, it shifted again to the east. We 
 had had for a day or two warmer weather. The air from 
 the land smelt entirely different, sweet and fresh, and not 
 so saltish as the sea air. We set our course W. by N". 
 The water changed from a dark green to a lighter, which 
 gave us all no bad spirits. Others with myself were con- 
 stantly on the lookout for land, but we discovered none. 
 The latitude we obtained to-day was 39°. We had gone 
 a little south, to about the latitude of the South river, and 
 should be opposite its north cape. We reckoned the dis- 
 tance sailed to be from 92 to 96 miles. As our heaviest deep 
 lead was too light, and we could not keep the vessel still, 
 she either sailing too rapidly or drifting too much, and as 
 
94 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 the weather was favorahle, we resolved to launch the jolly- 
 hoat in order to take soundings. The tub with the lead 
 and line were nut on board, and the mate and boatswain 
 went off in her, although, in fact, the jolly-boat remained 
 quiet on the water, and did not drift off far. They rowed 
 off a piece, and let the line run out, when they soon cried 
 out " bottom, bottom." It must not be asked whether this 
 did not send a thrill of joy through the ship, where every 
 one jumped up and clapped his hands, w hich was answered 
 from the jolly-boat like an echo. On being asked, how 
 deep it was, they said about 34 fathoms, at which we were 
 rejoiced, and, at the same time, surprised that we had not 
 found bottom before, as w r e were certainly near enough. 
 The jolly-boat was hoisted on board again, and the lead, 
 which had been greased over so that it might take an 
 impression of the bottom, was examined by every one. 
 We observed upon it a mixture of pebbles and shells, all 
 grown over with green, of the same color as the sea. This 
 occurred about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Our course 
 was then directed as much as possible to the north. We 
 sailed X. by E. and X. X. K. Two hours afterwards we 
 threw the lead again, and had 25 fathoms. At sunset we 
 thought we saw land, and although others thought dif- 
 ferently, I cannot rid myself of the idea that it was land. 
 I looked at it long enough, and perceived no motion, as 
 would have taken place if it were clouds. From the 
 soundings I supposed we were near the north cape of the 
 South river, and I also thought I saw a clove or double hill, 
 as laid down at that point on the chart, a little south of 
 west of us. The chart indicates a row of hills there. It 
 was nevertheless contradicted. In the mean time our hearts 
 ascended with thankfulness to God, adoring and admiring 
 his goodness and fatherly guidance. The weather was fine, 
 and the moon clear. Xot the smallest cloud obscured the 
 sky, and the sea was as smooth as if it were a river. God's 
 
HIGHLANDS OF NEVESINK. 
 
 95 
 
 blessing was so visibly over us, tbat tbe most brutal were 
 touched after their own way. Oh ! those wretched, wicked, 
 yea, truly wicked people. 
 
 21st, Thursday. The hatches of the hold were all opened 
 yesterday evening, and we began to make tbe cables fast 
 to tbe anchors, which we finished this morning. As 
 soon as the sun rose, every one climbed aloft in order to 
 look for land and some of them immediately cried out 
 "land," but they soon discovered they were mistaken. 
 Our course was north, with the wind E. N. E. I said the 
 land we would see was in front of us, and we could not see 
 it yet because it was in latitude 40° 20', and we bad 39°, 
 a difference of eighty miles, and as we had sailed only from 
 twenty-four to twenty-eight miles at the most during the 
 night, we were still fifty-two to fifty-six miles off, and if we 
 continued to sail as we were doing, it would be noon or 
 two o'clock before we would see it. I must say a word 
 here in relation to our cat; how she was always sick and 
 lame for some days before a storm, and could not walk, 
 and wben the storm was over, was lively and nimble again. 
 She had now been very playful for several days, running 
 here and tbere over tbe ship, but tbis morning she was 
 unusually gay. She came running witb a spring, leaping 
 into the rigging and going far aloft, turning her bead about 
 and snuffing the land, as much as to say, tbere is the land 
 you should look out for ; and causing great laughter among 
 the folks, who said tbe cat was on the lookout for land. 
 When she came down sbe mewed. But a tbick fog 
 coming from tbe land, cut off all view and hopes of going 
 inside, as we turned at once from the sbore. I obtained, 
 however, the altitude, to wit: 40° 5'. The distance was 
 reckoned to be sixty-four miles. In tbe mean time tbe deep 
 lead was thrown many times, and 22, 21, 19, 17, 16, 14 
 fathoms of water found, at one time more and at another 
 less, for the bottom is uneven. "We did this in order not 
 
VOYAGE TO NEW YOKE. 
 
 to run ashore during the fog. It, however, cleared away, and 
 we wore over again, and immediately saw the land distinctly, 
 which caused new rejoicing. W' perceived clearly that 
 we had heen sailing, since yesterday, along the shore, 
 although it was too far off to be seen. Een.iseher'fi Hook, 1 
 which adjoins Sandy Hook, was in front or north of us ; 
 and we had sailed N. N. E. and K by E. It was about 
 one o'clock when we first saw the land. It is not very high, 
 but like a dome, only it is a little higher. Long Island 
 is not very high; Rensselaer's Hook, which is the most 
 westerly point of the bay, is the highest of all. Sandy 
 Hook is low, and stretches out about three miles eastwardly 
 from Rensselaer's Hook, and makes the channel. You 
 must be close on Sandy Hook before you can see Long 
 Island. We intended to run in, but could not well do so 
 this evening, in consequence of the mist continually 
 intercepting the sight of the land. As the weather was 
 calm, and the sea smooth, we came to anchor, in thirteen 
 fathoms of water, and lay there quietly all night. 
 
 22'/, Friday. When the day began to break, they were 
 all in an uproar ; but the weather continued misty, with 
 a northeast wind, for which reason we judged we could 
 not make the channel. All those who were so joyful and 
 merry yesterday, were now more sober, as we were 
 compelled to keep off land, so as not to be caught on a 
 lee shore, from which it is very difficult to get away. The 
 fog cleared up a little about ten o'clock, and we sailed 
 again towards the shore, when we perceived we were 
 approaching the west side. It rained a part of the time, 
 and was misty, so that sometimes we could only see the 
 land dimly, and for a moment, and Sandy Hook hardly at 
 all. We durst not yet venture to run in, and wore off 
 ao-ain. About noon we saw a ketch to the sea-ward of 
 
 1 Nevesink. 
 
SANDY HOOK. THE NARROWS. 97 
 
 us, but we did not speak to her. She was laying her 
 course to the west. This coast surely is not very easy to 
 enter, especially in the autumn. Our captain had trouble 
 enough, though our mate did not agree with him. Sailing 
 onward, we had 13, 14, 15, 16 fathoms of water, hut 
 very uneven bottom as we approached the shore. We 
 laid our course IS. 1ST. E. and E. by ~N. and from the 
 shore, S. S. W. and S. At four o'clock in the afternoon 
 we determined to run in, if it were possible. We could 
 see the land a little better, and also Rensselaer's Hook. 
 Everybody, therefore, was very industrious, some in look- 
 ing after the sails, ropes and tackle, so as to be able to 
 turn and tack ship quickly ; others were constantly on the 
 lookout for land and especially to discover Sandy Hook, 
 in order to secure the best channel which is next to that 
 point ; for not far from it, on the other side, are the east 
 banks, which are very dangerous. We did our best, first 
 in a calm, then with a little breeze, to enter. We caught 
 sight of Sandy Hook at last, but it was soon hid by the fog. 
 We observed how the land lay by the compass, and so 
 sailed accordingly, expecting a good flood tide which would 
 begin to make at six o'clock. The deep lead was thrown 
 constantly, and we found five and foiir fathoms in the 
 shallowest places, near the channel. It was low water, and 
 the wind was N. E. and E. ~N. E., which took us soon 
 inside, short around the point of Sandy Hook, into the 
 bay towards the highlands of Rensselaer's Hook. Upon 
 passing the Hook which was now west of us, we found 
 deeper water 5, 6, 7 and 8 fathoms, and ran, as I have said, 
 immediately for the highlands, and came to anchor in 
 ten fathoms of water, praising the Lord again, and 
 thankful for the many instances of his goodness towards 
 us. This is a very fine bay, where many ships can lie, 
 protected from all winds, except the S. E., which, however, 
 cannot do much damage, because the east banks lie before 
 13 
 
08 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 it; and at the worst, the ship can only be driven in the 
 wind. They determined this evening, to go np early in the 
 morning, in the jolly-boat, to Staten Island or Long Island, 
 for a pilot 
 
 20'/, Suliinl'iij. It rained the whole night Our ship lay 
 as rpiiet as if she were made fast to the piles at Amsterdam, 
 which was very nnusual for us. The wind being west in 
 the morning, they changed their resolution of going up 
 for a pilot, and as the wind was so favorable determined to 
 take her up themselves. The anchor was therefore raised, 
 and we sailed on, for the purpose of passing between Staten 
 Island and Long Island, where there are two high points 
 of land, for that reason called the Iloofden (headlands). 1 
 AVe turned gradually from Sandy Hook to the right, in 
 order to avoid the shoals of the east bank, and so sailed to 
 the Iloofden. We had a good flood tide, and four to five 
 fathoms of water at the shoalcst part; but the wind shifted 
 again to the north, and we were compelled to tack, which 
 rendered our progress slow, for it was quite calm. Coming 
 to the Iloofden, and between them, you have 10, 11, and 
 12 fathoms of water. As soon as you begin to approach 
 the land, you see not only woods, hills, dales, green fields 
 and plantations, but also the houses and dwellings of the 
 inhabitants, which afford a cheerful and sweet prospect 
 after having been so long upon the sea. When we came 
 between the Iloofden, we saw some Indians on the beach 
 with a canoe, and others coming down the hill. As we 
 tacked about we came close to this shore, and called out to 
 them to come on board the ship, for some of the passen- 
 gers intended to go ashore with them; but the captain 
 would not permit it, as he wished, he said, to carry them, 
 
 ' The name of "De Hoofden" was derived as the journalist subsequently 
 informs us from the resemblance of the shores to the Iloofden or head- 
 lands of Dover and Calais. 
 
FIRST VIEW OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 99 
 
 according to his contract, to the Mamthans, though we 
 understood well why it was. The Indians came on hoard, 
 and we looked upon them with wonder. They are dull of 
 comprehension, slow of speech, hashful hut otherwise hold 
 of person, and red of skin. They wear something in front, 
 over the thighs, and a piece of duffels, like a blanket, 
 around the body, and this is all the clothing they have. 
 Their hair hangs down from their heads in strings, well 
 smeared with fat, and sometimes with quantities of little 
 heads twisted in it out of pride. They have thick lips and 
 thick noses, but not fallen in like the negroes, heavy 
 eyebrows or eyelids, brown or black eyes, thick tongues, 
 and all of them black hair. But we will speak of these 
 things more particularly hereafter. After tbey had obtained 
 some biscuit, and had amused themselves a little, climbing 
 and looking here and there, they also received some brandy 
 to taste, of which they drank excessively, and threw it up 
 again. They then went ashore in their canoe, and we 
 having a better breeze, sailed ahead handsomely. As soon 
 as you are through the Hoofden, you begin to see the city, 
 which presents a pretty sight. The fort, which lies upon 
 the point between two rivers, is somewhat higher ; and as 
 soon as they see a ship coming up, they raise a flag on a 
 high flag-staff, according to the colors of the sovereign to 
 whom they are subject, as accordingly they now flew the flag 
 of the king of England. "W"e came up to the city about 
 three o'clock, where our ship was quickly overrun with 
 people who came from the shore in all sorts of craft, each 
 one inquiring and searching after his own, and his own 
 profit. No custom-house officers came on board, as in 
 England, and the ship was all the time free of such persons. 
 "We came to anchor, then, before the city at three o'clock. 
 Every one wanted to go ashore immediately. We let 
 those most in a hurry go before us, when, leaving our 
 property in charge of Robyn, we also went in company 
 
100 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 with a passenger, named Gerrit; who took us to the house 
 of his father-in-law, where we lodged. 
 
 It is not possible to describe how this bay swarms with 
 fish, both large and small, whales, tunnies and porpoises, 
 whole schools of innumerable other fisb, and a sort like 
 herring, called there marsbanckers, and otber kinds, which 
 the eagles and other birds of prey swiftly seize in their 
 talons when the fish come up to the surface, and hauling 
 them out of the water, fly with them to the nearest woods 
 or beach, as we saw. 
 
 "We had finally arrived where we had so long wished to 
 be, but from whence we were soon to depart, because we 
 had come only to do the will of him who watches over us, 
 and who alter our longest voyage, will cause us to arrive, 
 by his favor, as it pleases him. Meanwhile unto him be 
 given all honor, and praise and glory for what he does, to 
 all eternity. Amen; yea, amen. 
 
 Leaving the ship on our arrival, it would seem proper 
 that this narrative concerning the voyage should here be 
 brought to an end ; but as the sea over which we passed is 
 wide and broad, and various things are to be noted, which 
 could only be found out in process of time, I will here add 
 them each by its kind. 
 
 Observations upon the Sea and the Voyage. 
 
 1. I have uniformly found it true, that the bottom 
 causes the change in the color of the sea, and makes the 
 color lighter or darker according as it may happen to be ; 
 as we experienced from the beginning to the end of our 
 voyage. And this is the reason; the water of itself has no 
 color, but, as it is transparent, the bottom shows itself, such 
 as it is, through the clearness of the water, according to 
 
SAILING OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 101 
 
 its depth; but something must be allowed for the sky, 
 clouds and other bodies in the atmosphere, which, although 
 they do not change the water, nevertheless shine in it, and 
 tli row a shadow or reflection. 
 
 2. The banks or shoals of Newfoundland extend further 
 south than they are laid down on the charts, and as far as 
 36° or less of latitude, as we observed from the color of 
 the water, although it may be deeper there than about 
 Newfoundland. 
 
 3. There is a stream running from the river Amazon, 
 along the coast of Guiana, through the Gulf of Mexico 
 and the channel of the Bahamas, along the coast of Florida, 
 Virginia and New Nctherland, to the banks of Newfound- 
 land, where, uniting with another stream, coming from the 
 north out of Davis's strait and river St. Lawrence, goes 
 again south, and afterwards S. W., to the Bermudas, but 
 mostly to the east of them, the particular causes and 
 reasons of which we will notice in its proper place. 
 
 4. This stream has its course along the gulfs, capes and 
 bays of the coast, the same as we experienced near or west 
 of Cape Cod or Staten Hook, where for two days 
 successively, without headway on the ship, and in a calm, 
 we were carried by it a degree to the north. This should 
 be kept in mind, and one should regulate himself 
 accordingly. 
 
 5. The storm of the Bermudas has been mentioned in 
 its place. 
 
 6. I have heretofore exposed mistakes on the large plane 
 chart, and it is not material to enter further into that 
 subject. 
 
 7. After we approached and passed the Bermudas, the 
 wind did not turn round the compass with the sun, which 
 happened to us four or five times, and frequently does so, 
 as is said by experienced persons. 
 
 8. Therefore, in navigating this passage for this place, it 
 
102 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 is best, when there are no reasons to tlie contrary arising 
 from the Turks or otherwise, to run just above or 
 below the Azores, to latitude 34 and 33, and even to 
 32 and 31, in order to get into the stream, and yet I 
 also consider it well to sail to the eastward of these islands; 
 or if you avoid the Azores, then to sail from Newfoundland 
 or its latitude, due south, or S. S. E., to the before men- 
 tioned latitude ; but, in returning, it is best to follow the 
 coast to Newfoundland, in order to fall into the stream and 
 wind. The home voyage is most always the shortest, 
 inasmuch as the stream runs mostly along the coast. 
 
 9. When a change occurs in the color of the water, and 
 at other times, the deep leadshould be much used. It should 
 be of 25 or 30 pounds weight. The ship or vessel should 
 lie as still as possible, or the jolly-boat should be used, 
 whether the lead be thrown with a certainty as to where 
 you may be, or for the discovery of other bottom. 
 
 10. In storms or hurricanes never be without stern-sails, 
 however small, unless you can sail before the wind, but no 
 longer than that ; for it is too dangerous, and too uncom- 
 fortable, both for the ship and the persons in her. 
 
 Some other observations in regard to the art of navigation 
 and the management of ships, of minor importance we 
 will reserve for another occasion. 
 
 TJic Persons with whom we made our Voyage. 
 
 Although this is such a miserable subject, that I 
 deliberated long whether it were worth while to take any 
 notice of it, yet since one does not know when a matter 
 can be serviceable, I will nevertheless say something. 
 The persons who belonged to the ship were : 
 The captain, Thomas Singleton, an Englishman, and a 
 
THE SHIP'S OFFICERS AND PASSENGERS. 103 
 
 quaker, from London, I believe. He had his wife 
 with him, who was quite young, about 24 or 26 years 
 old, and he was a person of 40 or 45. He was not 
 the best or most experienced seaman by a long distance. 
 He was proud and very assiduous or officious to please 
 men, especially Margaret and her man ; yet he had some 
 amiable qualities, he was affable. He was stingy; for 
 when many mackerel were caught, he would not give one 
 to the poor sailors. He was even displeased if the sailors 
 came with their fish lines to fish near the place, where he 
 was, because the fish might come to their lines instead of 
 his. His wife was a young, worldly creature, who had 
 not the least appearance of quakerism, but entirely 
 resembled an English lady fashioned somewhat upon 
 the Dutch model. She was proud, and wore much silver 
 and gold ; and when Margaret once spoke to him about it, 
 he said, " I did not give it to her." "Whereupon Margaret 
 asked, " "Why did you give her money to buy them ?" To 
 which he replied, " She wanted it." 
 
 The English mate, who afterwards became captain, was 
 a passionate pei'son, inwardly still more than he showed 
 outwardly, a great man-pleaser where his interest was to 
 be promoted. He was very close, but was compelled to 
 be much closer in order to please Margaret. 
 
 The Dutch mate, Evert, was a wicked, impious fellow, 
 who also drank freely. He was very proud of his know- 
 ledge and experience, which were none of the greatest. 
 
 The boatswain, Abram, of Plymouth, was rough and 
 wicked in his orders, but he was a strong and able seaman. 
 Robyn was the best. 
 
 I cannot permit myself to go further ; it is too unpleasant 
 a subject. 
 
 The passengers and crew were a wretched set. There 
 was no rest, night or clay, especially among the wives — a 
 rabble I cannot describe. It was as if they were in the 
 
104 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 fish market or apple market, night and day, without 
 cessation; where, indeed, some of them had obtained their 
 living, and even in worse places. There were nine or ten 
 of them always together. Among the men there were 
 some persons who drank like heasts, yes, drank themselves 
 dead drunk, as you may judge from the fact that two or 
 three of them drank thirty-five gallons of brandy, besides 
 wine from the time we left England or Holland. It is not 
 to be told what miserable people Margaret and Jan were, 
 and especially their excessive covetousness. In fine, it was 
 a Babel. I have never in my life heard of such a dis- 
 orderly ship. It was confusion without end. I have never 
 been in a ship where there was so much vermin, which 
 were communicated to us, and especially not a few to me, 
 because being in the cordage at night I particularly 
 received them. There were some bunks and clothes as full 
 as if they had been sown. But I must forbear. 
 
 When we first came on board the ship we eat where we 
 were, and with those we found there, but afterwards the 
 messes were regulated, and we were placed on deck with 
 five or six uncouth youngsters ; where, nevertheless, we 
 continued. This so exercised the other passengers, seeing 
 us submit so willingly, that they themselves could no longer 
 endure it, and desired us to come with them, and make a 
 mess of eight. We had been compelled to buy our stores 
 in England, as what we had were spoiled, or not sufficient. 
 There was not a bit of butter or vinegar on the food 
 during the whole voyage, except what we had purchased 
 at Falmouth. I do not know how long it was we had 
 nothing to eat except heads of salt fish, and those spoiled 
 for the most part. We had to eat them till they were 
 thrown overboard. Most of the time" we had white peas, 
 which our cook was too lazy to clean, or were boiled in 
 stinking water, and when they were brought on the table 
 we had to throw them away. The meat was old and 
 
FARE AND TREATMENT. 
 
 105 
 
 tainted; the pork passable, but enormously thick, as 
 much as six inches ; and the bread was mouldy or wormy. 
 We had a ration of beer three times a day to drink at table. 
 The water smelt very bad, which was the fault of the cap- 
 tain. When we left England the} 7 called us to eat in the 
 cabin, but it was only a change of place and nothing more. 
 Each meal was dished up three times in the cabin, first for 
 the eight passengers, then for the captain, mate and wife, 
 who sometimes did not have as good as we had, and lastly 
 for Margaret and Mr. Jan who had prepared for them 
 hardly any thing else except poultry and the like. But this 
 is enough. 
 
 After we left England, I took upon myself, out of love 
 of the thing, and because thei'e were so few persons to 
 work the ship, namely, ten in all, including the captain, to 
 watch and attend the rudder, as well as to make 
 observations in navigation : but when I perceived the 
 sailors, on this account, became lazy and depended upon 
 me, I left the rudder-gang. Nevertheless, when an English 
 ship came near running us down in the watch off Cape 
 Cod, causing thereby much uproar and confusion in our 
 ship, I did my best to unfasten a rope which they could not 
 make loose, at which the mate raved and swore, and for 
 which he would have almost struck or killed me. When 
 my comrade heard of it he wished me not to do any thing 
 more, and that was my opinion. I could not, however, 
 refrain from helping to the last, but I abandoned the 
 watch, and so caused the mate to feel that we were not 
 insensible, for there was nothing else to be done to him. 
 He, nevertheless, invited us daily more than any one else. 
 Finally, when the voyage was completed, there was no one, 
 either captain, or mate, or sailor, or Margaret, who said 
 " We thank you," except our poor Eobyn. We had a 
 little package put in the ship at Falmouth, about a foot 
 and a half square, on which the captain charged us four 
 14 
 
106 
 
 VOYAGE TO NEW YORK. 
 
 guilders freight, in the money of Holland. We represented 
 to Margaret how we had managed with only one chest 
 hetween us, although each passenger was entitled to have 
 one of his own, hut it was all to no purpose. Four 
 guilders it must be. It was not that we had any difficulty 
 in giving it, but it was only to be convinced of her 
 unblushing avarice. The mate's wife was the least evil- 
 inclined, and listened most to what was said to her, which 
 we hope will bear fruit. We have truly conducted 
 ourselves towards all in general and each one in particular, 
 so that not only has every one reason to be edified and 
 convinced, but, by the grace of God, every one renders us 
 testimony that we have edified and convinced them as well 
 by our lives as our conversation. Let him alone who is 
 the author of all grace, receive therefor all the glory, to 
 all eternity. Amen. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH NEW NETHERLAND, 
 
 THE TIME OP OUR ARRIVAL UNTIL OUR DEPARTURE FOR 
 THE FATHERLAND. 
 
NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 Having then fortunately arrived, by the blessing of 
 the Lord, before the city of New York, on Saturday, 
 the 23d day of September, we stepped ashore about four 
 o'clock in the afternoon, in company with Gerrit, 1 our 
 fellow passenger, who would conduct us in this strange place. 
 He had lived here a long time and had married his wife 
 here, although she and his children were living at present, 
 at Zwolle. We went along with him, but as he met many 
 of his old acquaintances on the way, we were constantly 
 stopped. He first took us to the house of one of his friends, 
 who welcomed him and us, and offered us some of the fruit 
 of the country, very fine peaches and full grown apples, 
 which filled our hearts with thankfulness to God. This 
 fruit was exceedingly fair and good, and pleasant to the 
 taste; much better than that in Holland or elsewhere, 
 though I believe our long fasting and craving of food 
 made it so agreeable. After taking a glass of Madeira, we 
 proceeded on to Gerrit's father-in-law's, a very old man, 
 half lame, and unable either to walk or stand, who fell upon 
 the neck of his son-in-law, welcoming him with tears of 
 joy. The old woman was also very glad. This good man 
 
 1 Gerrit Cornelius Van Duyne, the common ancestor of the Van Duyne 
 family in this country. He died in 1706. For further particulars in 
 relation to him the reader may consult the Genealogy of the Bergen Family, 
 by Hon. Tennis G. Bergen: New York, I860, pp. 221. 
 
110 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 was born in Vlissingen, and was named Jacob Swart. 1 He 
 bad been formerly a master carpenter at Amsterdam, but 
 bad lived in tins country upwards of forty-five years. 
 After we had been here a little while, we left our traveling 
 bag, and went out to take a walk in the fields. It was 
 strange to us to feel such stability under us, although it 
 seemed as if the earth itself moved under our feet like the 
 sbip had done for three months past, and our body also 
 still swayed after the manner of the rolling of the sea; 
 but this sensation gradually passed oft" in the course of a 
 few days. As we walked along we saw in different gardens 
 trees full of apples of various kinds, and so laden with 
 peaches and other fruit that one might doubt whether there 
 were more leaves or fruit on them. I have never seen in 
 Europe, in the best seasons, such an overflowing abundance. 
 When we had finished our tour and given our guide several 
 letters to deliver, we returned to his father-in-law's, who 
 regaled us in the evening with milk, which refreshed us 
 much. We had so many peaches set before us that we 
 were timid about eating them, though we experienced no 
 ill effects from them. "We remained there to sleep, which 
 was the first time in nine or ten weeks that we had lain 
 down upon a bed undressed, and able to yield ourselves to 
 sleep without apprehension of danger. 
 
 24//*, Sunday. We rested well through the night. I was 
 surprised on waking up to find my comrade had already 
 dressed himself and breakfasted upon peaches. We walked 
 out awhile in the fine, pure morning air, along the margin 
 of the clear running water of the sea, which is driven up 
 this river at every tide. As it was Sunday, in order to 
 
 1 Jacob Swart and Truytjc Jacobs, his wife, were still living in 1686, in 
 the Smits valley (Pearl street, between "Wall street and Franklin square), 
 according to Dornine Selyns' list of members of the Dutch church. — I 
 
 New York Historical Society Collections, new series, 398. 
 
DOMINE SCHAATS. FORT AMSTERDAM. m 
 
 avoid scandal and for other reasons, we did not wish to 
 absent ourselves from church. We therefore went, and 
 found there truly a wild worldly world. I say wild, not 
 only because the people are wild, as they call it in Europe, 
 but because most all the people who go there to live, or who 
 are born there, partake somewhat of the nature of the 
 country, that is, peculiar to the land where they live. We 
 heard a minister preach, who had come from the up-river 
 country, from fort Orange, where his residence is, an old 
 man, named Domine Schaats, of Amsterdam. He was, it 
 appears, a Voetian, and had come down for the purpose of 
 approving, examining, ordaining and collating a student ; 
 to perform which office the neighboring ministers come 
 here, as to the capital, and, in order that the collation may 
 be approved by the governor, who, at this time, was not at 
 home, but was at Pemequick, in the northerly parts of New 
 England. 1 This student, named Tcsscmakcr, from Utrecht, 
 I believe, was a Voetian, and had found some obstacles in 
 his way, because the other ministers were all Cocceians, 
 namely : Do. Meivenhitisen, of (New) Amsterdam, (Do. Van 
 Zuren), of Long Island, and Do. Gaesbeck, of Esopus, whose 
 son is sheriff of this city. He was to minister at the South 
 river, near the governor there, or in the principal place, as 
 he himself told us. The governor was expected home every 
 day, and then Tessemaker supposed he would be dispatched. 
 
 The governor is the greatest man in New Netherland, 
 and acknowledges no superior in all America, except the 
 viceroy, who resides upon Jamaica. 
 
 1 The governor here alluded to was Sir Edmund Andros, who was com- 
 missioned as such by the Duke of York over all the territories granted and 
 confirmed to the duke by Charles I, embracing not only the conquered 
 province of New Netherland, extending from the Connecticut river to the 
 Delaware, but also a portion of the province of Maine lying between the 
 Kennebec and St. Croix, of which tract Pemaquid was the principal point. 
 Andros had built a fort there two years before this time. 
 
NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 This Schaats, then, preached. He had a defect in the 
 left eye, and used such strange gestures and language that 
 I think I never in all my life have heard any thing more 
 miserahle ; indeed, I can compare him with no one better 
 than with one Do. Van Ecke, lately the minister at 
 Armuydcn, in Zeeland, more in life, conversation and 
 gestures than in person. As it is not strange in these 
 countries to have men as ministers who drink, we could 
 imagine nothing else than that he had heen drinking a little 
 this morning. His text was, Come unto me all ye, $c., hut 
 he was so rough that even the roughest and most godless 
 of our sailors were astonished. 
 
 The church being in the fort, we had an opportunity to 
 look through the latter, as we had come too early for 
 preaching. It is not large ; it has four points or batteries ; 
 it has no moat outside, but is enclosed with a double row 
 of palisades. It is built from the foundation with quarry 
 stone. The parapet is of earth. It is well provided witt 
 cannon, for the most part of iron, though there were some 
 small brass pieces, all bearing the mark or arms of the 
 Nethcrlanders. The garrison is small. There is a well of 
 fine water dug in the fort by the English, contrary to the 
 opinion of the Dutch, who supposed the fort was built upon 
 rock, and had therefore never attempted any such thing. 
 There is, indeed, some indication of stone there, for along 
 the edge of the water below the fort there is a very large 
 rock extending apparently under the fort, which is built 
 upon the point formed by the two rivers, namely, the East 
 river, which is the water running between the Mahatam 
 and Long Island, and the North river, which runs straight up 
 to fort Orange. In front of the fort, on the Long Island 
 side, there is a small island called Notcn island (Xut island), 
 around the point of which vessels must go in sailing out or 
 in, whereby they are compelled to pass close by the point 
 of the fort, where they can be flanked by several of the 
 
DO. NIEUENHUISEN. JEAN VIGNE. 113 
 
 batteries. It has only one gate, and that is on the land 
 side, opening upon a broad plain or street, called the 
 Broadway or Beaverway. Over this gate are the arms of 
 the Duke of York. During the time of the Dutch there 
 were two gates, namely, another on the water side ; but the 
 English have closed it, and made a battery there, with a false 
 gate. In front of the church is inscribed the name of 
 Governor Kyft, who caused the same to be built in the 
 year 1642. It has a shingled roof, and upon the gable to- 
 wards the water there is a small wooden tower, with a 
 bell in it, but no clock. There is a sun-dial on three 
 sides. The front of the fort stretches east and west, and 
 consequently the sides run north and south. 
 
 After we had returned to the house and dined, my com- 
 rade not wishing to go to church, sat about writing letters, 
 as there was a ship, of which Andre Bon was master, 
 about to leave in a few days for London ; but in order we 
 should not be both absent from church, and as the usual 
 minister was to preach in the afternoon, I went alone to 
 hear him. He was a thick, corpulent person with a red 
 and bloated face, and of very slabbering speech. 1 His text 
 was, the elders who serve well, £c, because the elders and 
 deacons were that day renewed, and I saw them' admitted. 
 After preaching, the good old people with whom we 
 lodged, who, indeed, if they were not the best on all the 
 Manathans, were at least among the best, especially the 
 wife, begged we would go with their son Gerrit, to one of 
 their daughters, who lived in a delightful place, and kept a 
 tavern, where we would be able to taste the beer of New 
 Wetherland, inasmuch as it was also a brewery. Some of 
 their friends passing by requested Gerrit and us to accom- 
 pany them, and so we went for the purpose of seeing what 
 was to be seen; but when we arrived there, we found our- 
 
 Thc minister here referred to was the Rev. William Nieuenkuisen. 
 15 
 
114 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 selves much deceived. On account of its being, to some 
 extent a pleasant spot, it was resorted to on Sundays by all 
 sorts of revellers, and was a low pot-house. Our company 
 immediately found acquaintances there and joined them, 
 but it being repugnant to our feelings to be there, we 
 walked into the orchard to seek pleasure in contemplating 
 the innocent objects of nature. Among other trees we 
 observed a mulberry tree, the leaves of which were as large 
 as a plate. The wife showed us pears larger than the fist, 
 picked from a three year's graft which had borne forty of 
 them. A great storm of rain coining up in the evening 
 compelled us to go into the house, where we did not remain 
 long with the others, but took our leave of them, against 
 their wishes. We retraced our steps in the dark, exploring 
 a way over which we had gone only once in our life, 
 through a valey (salt meadow) and over water, upon the 
 trunk of a tree. We nevertheless reached home, having 
 left the others in their revels. While in their company 
 we conversed with the first male bora of Europeans in New 
 Netherland, named Jean Vigne. His parents were from 
 Valenciennes and he was now about sixty-five years of age. 
 lie was a brewer and a neighbor of our old people. 1 
 
 1 This is an interesting statement, which may not only be compared with 
 that hitherto received, attributing to Sarah de Rapaljc, who was born on 
 the Oth of June, 1623, the honor of having been the first born Christian 
 child in New Netherland, but is to be considered in other respects. 
 According to the data given by our travelers, who, writing in 1679, make 
 Jean Vigne" sixty -five years old at that time, he must have been born in 
 the year 1614, eleven years before Sarah de Rapalje, and at the very 
 earliest period compatible with the sojourn of any Hollanders upon our 
 territory. Jean Vigne belonged to the class of great burghers in New 
 Amsterdam, and was one of the schepens ot the city in the years 1655, 56, 
 61 and 63. — CtGaUagharCi Register of New Netherland, 61-3, 174. He was 
 twice married.— New York Manual, 1862. Valentine says (History of New 
 York, 73), that he died in 1691 without issue. In this statement in regard 
 to his being the first person of European parentage born in New Netherland 
 there are some notable points. The first trading voyages to Hudson's 
 
DUTIES ON GOODS. 
 
 115 
 
 A ketch came in from sea this evening, of which David 
 Jochemsen was the master. She left England three weeks 
 before us, and was the same one we saw the day we came 
 in. The captain said he recollected to have seen us, hat 
 observing us tacking several times, he did not dare follow 
 us, for fear of being misled. 
 
 25th, Monday. "VVe went on board the ship this morning 
 in order to obtain our traveling bag and clothes for the 
 purpose of having them washed, but when we came on 
 board we could not get ashore again, before the afternoon, 
 when the passengers' goods were to be delivered. All our 
 goods which were between decks, were taken ashore and 
 carried to the public storehouse, where they had to be 
 examined; but some time elapsed before it was done 
 in consequence of the examiners being elsewhere. At 
 length, however, one Abraham Lennoy, 1 a good fellow 
 
 river were made by the Dutch in 1013-14, and the first wintering or habita- 
 tion there was in 1614-15. There must have been, therefore, one European 
 woman at least in the country at that early period. Whether Jean Vigne's 
 parents returned to Holland or remained here during the obscure period 
 between the time of his birth and the occupation of the country by the 
 West India Company, it is impossible to determine. Either may have 
 been the case. If the statement, however, be correct, and there is nothing 
 ' inconsistent in it, with the history of the colony as far as known, Jean 
 Vign6 was not only the first born of European parents in New Netherland 
 but as far as known in the whole United States north of Virginia. We 
 deem it of sufficient importance to give here the statement of our travel- 
 ers in regard to him in the original language: Wijhaddcn ind it gcseltschap 
 gcxproken den eerst gcboren mans-persoon van Europianen in Nku Nederlant, 
 genoemt Jean Vigne. Sijne ouders waren van Valencijn, en hij was nu 
 ontreul 65 jacr out, synde ook een brouwer en buerman van onse oude luij. 
 
 1 Peter La Noy, or De la Noy, is here meant, as is evident from what is 
 said subsequently in this journal under the date of the fifth of October. 
 Peter was at this time book-keeper to the collector of the port. He was 
 afterwards collector and was mayor of the city under Leisler, and a 
 member of his council. — New York Colonial History, vol. Ill, 302, 596, 645. 
 Abraham was his brother, and a schoolmaster. 
 
116 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 apparently, befriended us. lie examined our chest only, 
 without touching our bedding or any tiling else. I showed 
 him a list of the tin which we had in the upper part of our 
 chest, and lie examined it and also the tin, and turned up 
 a little more what was in the chest, and with that left oft", 
 without looking at it closely. He > demanded four English 
 shillings for the tin, remarking at the same time, that he had 
 observed some other small articles, but would not examine 
 them closely, though he had not seen cither the box or the 
 pieces of linen. This being finished we sent our goods in 
 a cart to our lodgings, paying for the two heavy chests and 
 straw beds, and other goods from the public storehouse, to 
 the Smit's vaiey, sixteen stuivers of zeewan, equal to three 
 stuivers and a half in the money of H olland. 1 This finished 
 the day and we retired to rest. 
 
 26th, Tuesday. We remained at home for the purpose of 
 writing, but in the afternoon finding that many goods had 
 been discharged from the ship, we went to look after our 
 little package, which also came., I declared it, and it was 
 examined. I had to pay 24 guilders in zeewan or five 
 guilders 2 in the coin of Holland. I brought it to the 
 house and looked the things all over, rejoicing that we 
 were finally rid of that miserable set and the ship, the 
 freight only remaining to be paid which was fixed at four 
 guilders in coin. We went first to Margaret in relation 
 to the freight, who said she had nothing more to do with 
 it, and that we must speak to her husband about it, which 
 it was not convenient to do that evening, and we therefore 
 let it go, waiting for an opportunity to speak to her and 
 her husband with the captain and perhaps also Mr. Jan. 
 
 27th, Wednesday. Nothing occurred to-day except that I 
 went to assist Gerrit in bringing his goods home, and 
 
 1 Three cents and a half. 
 
 2 Two dollars. 
 
LONG ISLAND. 
 
 117 
 
 declaring them, which we did. We heard that one of the 
 wicked and godless sailors had broken his leg ; and in this 
 we saw and acknowledged the Lord and his righteousness. 
 We visited Jean Vigne in order, as he was one of the 
 oldest inhabitants, to obtain from him information on 
 various matters relating to the country. 
 
 28th, Thursday. We remained at home to-day. I per- 
 formed some little errands. Monsieur La Grange^ called 
 upon us, dressed up like a great fop, as he was. My com- 
 rade did not fail to speak to him seriously on the subject. 
 He requested its to go with him immediately to his house, 
 as I at length did. His house was not far from our 
 lodgings on the front of the city. He had a small shop, as 
 most all the people here have, who gain their living by 
 trade, namely, in tobacco and liquors, thread and pins and 
 other knick-knacks. His wife welcomed me, and instantly 
 requested that we would come to their house and stay there 
 as long as we were here, for which I thanked them. They 
 had lost a child by the small pox, and they had been sick 
 with the same disease. He said he intended to go to the 
 South river within three weeks, and hearing we were 
 inclined to travel, he desired our company, being willing 
 to take us every where and to give us every information. 
 I thanked him, but gave him no assurances, telling him we 
 would see what the Lord would will of us. 
 
 29th, Friday. We finished our letters, and intended 
 to go to-day over to Long Island. At noon a person 
 came to us in our chamber and requested that we would 
 be pleased to go to their minister, who was in the next 
 house, as he was desirous of seeing and conversing with 
 us, having already heard much good of us. We excused 
 ourselves on the ground that we were busy writing, 
 
 1 La Grange seems to have been one of the persons to whom the travel- 
 ers brought letters. 
 
118 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 endeavoring to finish our letters, in order, if it were possi- 
 ble, to go over to Long Island in the afternoon, with which 
 he went away. 
 
 As soon as we had dined we sent off* our letters ; and 
 this being all accomplished, we started at two o'clock for 
 Long Island. Tliis island is called Long Island, not so 
 much because it is longer than it is broad, but particularly 
 because it is the longest island in this region, or even 
 alone the whole coast of New Netherland, Virginia and 
 New England. It is one hundred and forty-four miles in 
 length, and from twenty-four to twenty-eight miles wide, 
 though there are several bays and points along it, and, con- 
 secmently, it is much broader in some places than others. 
 On the west is Staten island, from which it is separated 
 about a mile, and the great bay over which you see the 
 Nevcsincke. With Staten island it makes the passage 
 through which all vessels pass in sailing from or to the 
 Mahalans, although they can go through the Kil van Kol, 
 which is on the other side of Staten island. The ends of 
 these islands opposite each other are quite high land, and 
 they arc, therefore, called the Hoofden (Headlands), from a 
 comparison with the Hoofden of the channel between 
 England and France, in Europe. On the north is the 
 island of 3fahatans and a part of the mainland. On the 
 east is the sea, which shoots up to New England, and in 
 which there are various islands. On the south is the great 
 ocean. The outer shore of this island has before it several 
 small islands and broken land, such as Coney island, 1 a low 
 sandy island of about three hours' circuit, its westerly point 
 forming with Sandy Hook, on the other side, the entrance 
 from the sea. It is oblong in shape, and is grown over 
 with bushes. Nobody lives upon it, but it is used in 
 winter for keeping cattle, horses, oxen, hogs and others, 
 
 »'< Conijnen Eylant, Rabbit's island. 
 
THE FERRY TO BROOKLYN. 
 
 119 
 
 which are able to obtain there sufficient to eat the whole 
 winter, and to shelter themselves from the cold in the 
 thickets. This island is not so cold as Long Island or the 
 Mahatans, or others, like some other islands on the coast, 
 in consequence of their having more sea breeze, and of the 
 saltness of the sea breaking upon the shoals, rocks and 
 reefs, with which the coast is beset. There is also the 
 Bear's island 1 and others, separated from Long Island by 
 creeks and marshes overflown at high water. There are 
 also on this sea coast various miry places, like the Vlaeck, 2 
 and others, as well as some sand bays and hard and rocky 
 shores. Long Island stretches into the sea for the most 
 part east by south and east southeast. None of its land is 
 very high, for you must be nearly opposite Sandy Hook 
 before you can see it. There is a hill or ridge running 
 lengthwise through the island, nearest the north side and 
 west end of the island. The south side and east end are 
 more flat. The water by which it is separated from the 
 Mahatans, is improperly called the East river, for it is 
 nothing else than an arm of the sea, beginning in the bay 
 on the west and ending in the sea on the east. After 
 forming in this passage several islands, this water is as 
 broad before the city as the Y before Amsterdam, but the 
 ebb and flood tides are stronger. There is a ferry for the 
 purpose of crossing over it, which is farmed out by the 
 year, and yields a good income, as it is a considerable 
 thoroughfare, this island being one of the most populous 
 places in this vicinity. A considerable number of Indians 
 live upon it, who gain their subsistence by hunting and 
 fishing, and they, as well as others, must carry their articles 
 to market over this ferry, or boat them over, as it is free to 
 every one to use his own boat, if he have one, or to borrow 
 
 * 't Beercn Eijlant. Now called Barren island. 
 
 2 The Wienngen shoals in the Zuyder Zee are probably meant. 
 
120 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 or hire one for the purpose. The fare over the ferry is 
 three stuivers 1 in zecwan for each person. 
 
 Here we three crossed over, my comrade, Gerrit, our 
 guide, and myself, in a row-hoat, as it happened, which, in 
 good weather and tide, carries a sail. AVhen we came 
 over we found there Jan Teunissen, our fellow passenger, 
 who had promised us so much good. lie was going over 
 to the city, to deliver his letters and transact other husiness. 
 He told us he would return home in the evening, and we 
 would find him there. We went on, up the hill, along 
 open roads and a little woods, through the first village, 
 called Brcukelen, which has a small and ugly little church 
 standing in the middle of the road. 2 Having passed 
 through here, we struck off to the right, in order to go to 
 Gouancs. We went upon several plantations where Gerrit 
 was acquainted with most all of the people, who made us 
 very welcome, sharing with us bountifully whatever they 
 had, whether it was milk, cider, fruit or tohacco, and 
 especially, and first and most of all, miserahle rum or 
 hrandy which had heen hrought from Barbadoes and other 
 islands, and which is called by the Dutch kiU-devU. All 
 these people are very fond of it, and most of them extrava- 
 gantly so, although it is very dear and has a bad taste. It 
 
 1 Less than half a cent in our money. 
 
 1 Breukelen, now Brooklyn, was so called from the village of that name 
 in the province of Utrecht. The church here referred to was built in 1666, 
 and was the first one in Brooklyn. When it was taken down does not 
 appear. " A second church," says Fumian, in his Notes relating to Brook- 
 lyn, 76, " was erected on the site of that built in 1666, which second church 
 continued standing until about 1810, when a new and substantial church 
 was erected on Joralemon street, and the old one taken down. This 
 old church was a very gloomy looking building, with small windows, 
 and stood in the middle of the highway, about a mile from Brooklyn 
 ferry." Of this second church a view is given in the Brooklyn Manual, 
 of 1863. 
 
GOWANUS. SIMON DE HART. 
 
 121 
 
 is impossible to tell how many peach trees we passed, all 
 laden with fruit to breaking down, and many of them 
 actually broken down. "We came to a place surrounded 
 with such trees from which so many had fallen off that the 
 ground could not be discerned, and you could not put 
 your foot down without trampling them; and, notwith- 
 standing such large quantities had fallen off, the trees still 
 were as full as they could bear. The hogs and other 
 animals mostly feed on them. This place belongs to the 
 oldest European woman in the country. "We went imme- 
 diately into her house, where she lived with her children. 
 We found her sitting by the fire, smoking tobacco inces- 
 santly, one pipe after another. We enquired after her age, 
 which the children told us was an hundred years. She was 
 from Luyck (Liege), and still spoke good Waalsche (old 
 French), with us. She could reason very well sometimes, 
 and at other times she could not. She showed us several 
 large apples, as good fruit of that country, and different 
 from that of Europe. She had been about fifty years now 
 in the country, and had above seventy children and grand- 
 children. She saw the third generation after her. Her 
 mother had attended women in child-bed in her one 
 hundred and sixth year, and was one hundred and eleven 
 or twelve years old when she died. We tasted here, for 
 the first time, smoked ticaelft 1 (twelfth), a fish so called 
 because it is caught in season next after the elft 2 (eleventh). 
 It was salted a little and then smoked, and, although it was 
 now a ye&r old, it was still perfectly good, and in flavor 
 not inferior to smoked salmon. We drank here, also, the 
 first new cider, which was very fine. 
 
 We proceeded on to Gouanes, a place so called, where we 
 arrived in the evening at one of the best friends of Gerrit, 
 
 1 Tlic striped bass. 
 J The shad. 
 
 16 
 
122 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS ATCINITY. 
 
 named Syinon. 1 lie was very glad to see us, and so was 
 his wife. Tie took us into the house, and entertained us 
 exceedingly well. AVe found a good fire, half-way up the 
 
 'Thifl settler was Simon Aertsen J)e Hart, who immigrated to this 
 COnntty in 1004. His wife, at this time, wasGeertie (Gertrude) Comelissen. 
 I'pon her death lie married the widow of William Huycken, of Gowanos, 
 on June; 19, Ui!H. The house in which he entertained our travelers is still 
 standing, in 1800. We are indebted to the Hon. Teunis G. Bergen, son of 
 the late Garret Bergen, of Gowanos, for the following interesting particu- 
 lars in relation to this ancient dwelling and its several proprietors, showing 
 it to have been in the same family ever since; the visit of the travelers. 
 
 " Simon Aertsen De Hart settled in Brooklyn suhx ijuently to his arrival in 
 this country, in 1664, upon a portion of a tract of land of 930 acres, bought 
 by William Arianse Bcnnct and .laccpies Bentyn of the Indians in 1030, 
 extending from the vicinity of 27th street, in Brooklyn, to the New 
 Utrecht line at Bay ridge. This entire tract was surveyed May 21, 1000, 
 by Augustus Graham, surveyor general of the colony, and the map of his 
 survey is on file in the office of the secretary of state at Albany. Two 
 dwelling houses are represented upon it, one where the present Sehermer- 
 horn house is situated, and the other west of the first meadow, where the 
 present house, partially of stone, stands, on Gowanos cove, near 28th 
 street, and on the parcel designated on the map as land said to be sold to 
 Simon Arison. Governor Fletcher issued a confirmatory grant or patent, 
 on 2d November, 1090, to Simon Arison, for 303 acres, embracing the two 
 parcels designated on the map as " the land in difference between Simon 
 Arison and Adriaen Bennet," and " the land said to be sold to Simon 
 Arison." Tradition has handed down the house still standing on the cove 
 near 28th street as theone occupied by Simon Arison. The main building 
 is of stone. The wing, which is built entirely of wood, has probably been 
 added since the main house was erected, which has undoubtedly been 
 several times altered and materially repaired. About fifty years ago 
 Simon Bergen, its owner at that time, proposed to take it down, on account 
 of its general decay, but upon the persuasion of Garret Bergen, his 
 adjoining neighbor, he was induced to put it in repair, and place a new 
 roof upon it ; and so it has remained to the present day. The children of 
 Simon Aertsen De Hart were Simon (2), who inherited this plantation, 
 Elias and Annetje. Simon (2) had only one son, Simon (3), who also in- 
 herited the land, and several daughters, one of which, Geertje, married 
 Simon Bergen. Simon (3) had no children, and by will devised the 
 property to his sister Geertje, wife of Simon Bergen. Simon Bergen, Jun., 
 son of Simon and Geertje Bergen, took the portion of the land where the 
 house stands ; and his daughter Leah, who married Jacob Morris, is now 
 the owner for life, with remainder over to her issue, under the will of her 
 father." A copy 6f the map made by Mr. Graham is preserved in the 
 Brooklyn Manual for 1863, p. 360. 
 
THE NYACK INDIANS. 
 
 123 
 
 chimney, of clear oak and hickory, of which they made 
 not the least scrapie of burning profusely. "We let it pene- 
 trate us thoroughly. There had been already thrown upon 
 it, to be roasted, a pail-full of Gouanes oysters, which are 
 the best in the country. They are fully as good as those 
 of England, and better than those we eat at Falmouth. I 
 had to try some of them raw. They are large and full, 
 some of them not less than a foot long, and they grow 
 sometimes ten, twelve and sixteen together, and are then 
 like a piece of rock. Others are young and small. In 
 consequence of the great quantities of them, everybody 
 keeps the shells for the purpose of burning them into lime. 
 They pickle the oysters in small casks, and send them to 
 Barbadoes and the other islands. We had for supper a 
 roasted haunch of venison, which he had bought of the 
 Indians for three guilders and a half of seewant, that is, 
 fifteen stuivers of Dutch money (fifteen cents), and which 
 weighed thirty pounds. The meat was exceedingly 
 tender and good, and also quite fat. It had a slight spicy 
 flavor. We were also served with wild turkey, which 
 was also fat and of a good flavor ; and a wild goose, but 
 that was rather dry. Every thing we had was the natural 
 production of the country. We saw here, lying in a 
 heap, a whole hill of watermelons, which were as 
 large as pumpkins, and which Symon was going to take 
 to the city to sell. They were very good, though there 
 is a difference between them and those of the Caribly 
 islands; but this may be owing to its being late in the 
 season, and these were the last pulling. It was very 
 late at night when we went to rest m a Kermis bed, as it 
 is called, in the corner of the hearth, along side of a 
 good fire. 
 
 30th, Saturday. Early this morning the husband and wife 
 set off for the city with their marketing ; and we, having 
 explored the land in the vicinity, left after breakfast. We 
 
124 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 went a part of the way through a woods and fine, new 
 made land, and so along the shore to the west end of the 
 island called Najack. 1 As we proceeded along the shore, 
 we found, among other curiosities, a highly marbled 
 stone, very hard, in which we saw Muscovy glass lying in 
 layers hetween the clefts, and how it was struck or cut out. 
 We hrokc off a small piece with some difficulty, and picked 
 out a little glass in the splits. Continuing onward from 
 there, we came to the plantation of the JVajar/c Indians, 
 which was planted with maize, or Turkish wheat. We 
 soon heard a noise of pounding, like thrashing, and went 
 to the place whence it proceeded, and found there an old 
 Indian woman busily employed heating Turkish beans out 
 of the pods by means of a stick, which she did with 
 astonishing force and dexterity. Gerrit inquired of her, 
 in the Indian language, which he spoke perfectly well, 
 how old she was, and she answered eighty years ; at which 
 we were still more astonished that so old a woman should 
 still have so much strength and courage to work as she 
 did. AVe went from thence to her habitation, where we 
 found the wdiole troop together, consisting of seven or 
 eight families, and twenty or twenty-two persons, I should 
 think. Their house was low and long, about sixty feet 
 long and fourteen or fifteen feet wide. The bottom was 
 earth, the sides and roof were made of reed and the bark 
 of chestnut trees ; the posts, or columns, were limbs of 
 trees stuck in the ground, and all fastened together. The 
 top, or ridge of the roof was open about half a foot wide, 
 from one end to the other, in order to let the smoke escape, 
 in place of a chimney. On the sides, or walls, of the house, 
 the roof was so low that you could hardly stand under it. 
 The entrances, or doors, which were at both ends, were so 
 
 1 Fort Hamilton, which is surrounded, hi a great measure, by a marsh, 
 and hence is here called an island. 
 
A WIGWAM AND ITS INTERIOR, 
 
 125 
 
 small and low that they had to stoop down and squeeze 
 themselves to get through them. The doors were made of 
 reed or flat hark. In the whole building there was no 
 lime, stone, iron or lead. They build their fire in the mid- 
 dle of the floor, according to the number of families which 
 live in it, so that from one end to the other each of them 
 boils its own pot, and eats when it likes, not only the 
 families by themselves, but each Indian alone, according as 
 he is hungry, at all hours, morning, noon and night. By 
 each fire are the cooking utensils, consisting of a pot, a 
 bowl, or calabash, and a spoon also made of a calabash. 
 These are all that relate to cooking. They lie upon mats 
 with their feet towards the fire, on each side of it. They 
 do not sit much upon any thing raised up, but, for the 
 most part, sit on the ground or squat on their ankles. 
 Their other household articles consists of a calabash of 
 water, out of which they drink, a small basket in which to 
 carry and keep their maize and small beans, and a knife. 
 The implements are, for tillage, a small, sharp stone, and 
 nothing more ; for hunting, a gun and pouch for powder 
 and lead ; for fishing, a canoe without mast or sail, and 
 without a nail in any part of it, though it is sometimes 
 full forty feet in length, fish hooks and lines, and scoops to 
 paddle with in place of oars. I do not know whether there 
 are not some others of a trifling nature. All who live in 
 one house are generally of one stock or descent, as father 
 and mother with their offspring. Their bread is maize, 
 pounded in a block by a stone, but not fine. This is 
 mixed with water, and made into a cake, which they bake 
 under the hot ashes. They gave us a small piece when we 
 entered, and although the grains were not ripe, and it was 
 half baked and coarse grains, we nevertheless had to eat 
 it, or, at least, not throw it away before them, which they 
 would have regarded as a great sin, or a great affront. 
 We chewed a little of it with long teeth, and managed to hide 
 
120 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 it so they did not see it. "We had also to driuk out of 
 their calabashes the water which was their drink, and 
 which was very good. We saw here the Indians who 
 came on board the ship when we arrived. They were all 
 very joyful at the visit of our Gerrit, who was an old 
 acquaintance of theirs, and had heretofore long resided 
 about there. We presented them with two jewsharpe, 
 which much pleased them, and they immediately com- 
 menced to play upon them, which the}' could do tolerably 
 well. Home of their jxitroons (chiefs), some of whom spoke 
 good Dutch, and are also their medicine-men and surgeons 
 as well as their teachers, were busy making shoes of deer 
 leather, which they understand how to make soft by con- 
 tinually working it in their hands. They had dogs, fowls 
 and hogs, which they learn by degrees from the Europeans 
 how to manage better. They had, also, peach trees, which 
 were well laden. Towards the last, we asked them for 
 some peaches, and they answered : " Go and pick them," 
 which showed their politeness. However, in order not to 
 offend them, we went off and pulled some. Although 
 they are such a poor, miserable people, they are, never- 
 theless, licentious and proud, and given to knavery and 
 scoffing. Seeing a very old woman among them, we 
 inquired how old she was, when some young fellows, 
 laughing and jeering, answered twenty years, while it 
 w as evident to us she was not less than an hundred. We 
 observed here the manner in which they travel with their 
 children, a woman having one which she carried on her 
 back. The little tiling clung 1 tight around her neck like 
 a cat, where it was kept secure by means of a piece of 
 daffels, their usual garment. Its head, back and buttocks 
 were entirely flat. How that happened to be so we will 
 relate hereafter, as we now only make mention of what 
 we saw. 
 
 These Indians live on the land of Jaques (Cortelyou), 
 
JAQUES CORTELYOU. 
 
 127 
 
 brother-in-law of Gerrit. 1 He bought the land from them 
 in the first instance, and then let them have a small corner, 
 for which they pay him twenty bushels of maize yearly, 
 that is, ten bags. Jaques had first bought the whole of 
 Najack from these Indians, who were the lords thereof, and 
 lived upon the land, which is a large place, and afterwards 
 bought it again, in parcels. He was unwilling to drive the 
 Indians from the land, and has therefore left them a corner 
 of it, keeping the best of it himself. 2 We arrived then 
 upon this land, which is all good, and yields large crops of 
 wheat and other grain. It is of a blackish color, but not 
 clayey, and almost like the garden mould I have seen in 
 Holland. At length we reached the house, where we 
 found Mom. Le Grange, who had come there in search of 
 us, to inform us further concerning his departure for the 
 South river, and to take us to his house. "We spoke to him 
 in regard to this and other matters, as was proper, and 
 shortly afterwards he left. Jaques is a man advanced in 
 
 1 Jacques Cortelyou came from Utrecht to tins country in 15G2, in the 
 quality of tutor to the children of Cornelis van Werckhoven, of that city, 
 first patentee direct from the West India company, of Nyack, or Fort 
 Hamilton. He married Neeltje Van Duyne, and died about 1693. The 
 Indians received six coats, six kettles, six axes, six chisels, six small 
 looking-glasses, twelve knives and twelve combs, from the West India 
 company, in 1645, for all the land extending along the bay, from Gowanus 
 to Coney island, embracing the present town of New Utrecht. Van 
 Werckhoven went to Holland, after attempting a settlement at Nyack, but 
 with the intention of returning. He died there, however, in 1655 ; and 
 Cortelyou, who remained in possession of Nyack as his agent, obtained 
 permission, in 1657, from the director and council, to lay out on the tract, 
 the town of New Utrecht, so named in compliment to the birth-place of 
 Van Werckhoven — N Y. Doc, Hist., 1,413 ; 0' Callaghan's New Netherlands 
 II, 185; Brodhead' s New York, I, 410. Bergen Genealogy, 90. 
 
 2 The journalist, as we have seen, mistakes in supposing the first pur- 
 chase of Nyack from the Indians to have been by Cortelyou ; but is 
 probably correct in stating a second purchase by him, which might have 
 been made for the purpose of aiding him with a title by possession against 
 the heirs of Van Werckhoven, M'ho actually did subsequently claim this 
 inheritance. 
 
128 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 years. He was born in Utrecht, but of French parents, as 
 we could readily discover from all his actions, looks and 
 language. He had studied philosophy in his youth, and 
 Bpoke Latin and good French. He was a mathematician 
 and sworn land-surveyor. He had also formerly learned 
 several sciences, and had some knowledge of medicine. 
 The worst of it was, he was a good Cartesian and not a 
 good Christian, regulating himself, and all externals, by 
 reason and justice only; nevertheless, he regulated all 
 things better by these principles than most people in these 
 porta do, who bear the name of Christians or pious per- 
 sons. His brother-in-law and ourselves were welcomed by 
 him and his wife. He treated us with every civility, 
 although two of his sons being sick, and he very much 
 confined in attending upon them, he was much interrupted 
 in attending to us, since they more than we afflicted his 
 head and that of his wife. We went looking around the 
 country, and towards evening came to the village of New 
 Utrecht, so named by him. This village was burned down 
 some time ago, with every thing about it, including the 
 house of this man, which was almost an half an hour 
 distant from it. Many persons were impoverished by the 
 fire. It was now almost all rebuilt, and many good stone 
 houses were erected, of which Jaques's was one, where we 
 returned by another road to spend the night. After 
 supper, we went to sleep in the barn, upon some straw 
 spread with sheep-skins, in the midst of the continual 
 grunting of hogs, squealing of pigs, bleating and cough- 
 ing of sheep, barking of dogs, crowing of cocks, 
 cackling of hens, and, especially, a goodly quantity of 
 fleas and vermin, of no small portion of which we were 
 participants; and all with an open barn door, through 
 which a fresh northwest wind was blowing. Though we 
 could not sleep, we could not complain, inasmuch as we 
 had the same quarters and kind of bed that their own son 
 
WILD GRAPES. FLATLANDS. 
 
 129 
 
 usually had, who had now on our arrival crept in the straw 
 behind us. 
 
 October 1st, Sunday. We went, this morning, on a tour 
 of observation of the country and of the neighbors, some of 
 whom were better situated than others, but all of them had 
 more or less children sick with the small pox, which, next 
 to the fever and ague, is the most prevalent disease in these 
 parts, and of which many have died. We went into one 
 house where there were two children lying dead and 
 unburied, and three others sick, and where one had died 
 the week before. This disease was more fatal this year 
 than usual. "We spoke to these afflicted people what was 
 suitable and they could bear. 
 
 Finding myself afterwards alone upon a small eminence, 
 I made a sketch, as well as I could, of the land surrounding 
 the great bay, that is, Coney island, the entrance from the 
 sea, Rensselaer's hook, and so further to the right, towards 
 Kil van Kol. 
 
 After dinner we intended to leave for a place called the 
 bay, 1 where Jan Theunissen, our fellow passenger, lived, who 
 had made us great promises of friendship ; besides, my 
 companion was desirous, as they said there would be 
 preaching, to hear the minister of the island, who was very 
 zealous and a great Cocceian, and, perhaps, a Cartesian. 
 But Jaques persuaded us from it, because the house where 
 Jan Theunissen lived with his father was so full of people 
 on Sundays, who came from all directions to attend 
 preaching, that you could scarcely get in or out. As the 
 minister was not in the village where he dwelt, he remained 
 over with many other persons ; and he (Jaques) said he 
 would accompany us there the next morning. So we let it 
 pass, and took another walk to New Utrecht, where we 
 drank some good beer a year old, and coming back again 
 
 1 Flatlands, the residence of Elbert Elbertsen Stoothoff, the father-in-law 
 of Jan Theunissen. 
 
 17 
 
130 
 
 NEW YOKK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 to the house, indulged in peaches on the road. I went 
 along the shore to Coney island, which is separated from 
 Long Island only by a creek, and around the point, and came 
 inside not far from a village called Oravesant, and again 
 home. We discovered on the road several kinds of grapes 
 still on the vines, called speck (pork) grapes, which are not 
 always good, and these were not ; although they were 
 sweet in the mouth at first, they made it disagreeable and 
 stinking. The small blue grapes are better, and their 
 vines grow in good form. Although they have several 
 times attempted to plant vineyards, and have not imme- 
 diately succeeded, they, nevertheless, have not abandoned 
 the hope of doing so by and by, for there is always some 
 encouragement, although they have not, as yet, discovered 
 the cause of the failure. 
 
 2d, Monday. Having slept the night again at Nojack, we 
 four went, after breakfast, to the bay, where we arrived 
 about ten o'clock. "We did not find Jan Theunissen at 
 home, as he had driven to the city to bring his goods ; but 
 the father and mother bade us welcome, and took us around 
 into their orchards to look at them. My comrade spoke 
 to him as opportunity offered of godly things, but he 
 seemed to be a little disposed to play the part of a religious 
 and wise man, and he defended himself and the evil as 
 much as he could, going to work somewhat coldly with 
 us. We took the time, however, to go around and see 
 every thing thoroughly, and found the land, in general, not 
 so good as that at Najack. There is towards the sea, a 
 large piece of low flat land which is overflown at every 
 tide, like the Schorr (marsh) with us, miry and muddy at 
 the bottom, and which produces a species of hard salt grass 
 or reed grass. Such a place they call valey 1 and mow it 
 for hay, which cattle would rather eat than fresh hay or 
 
 Pronouncedly. 
 
SALT MEADOW. GRAVESEND. 
 
 131 
 
 grass. It is so hard that they cannot mow it with a 
 common scythe, like ours, but must have the English 
 scythe for the purpose. Their adjoining corn lands are dry 
 and barren for the most part. Some of them were now 
 entirely covered with clover in blossom, which diffused a 
 sweet odor in the air for a great distance, and which we 
 discovered in the atmosphere, before we saw the fields. 
 Behind the village, inland, are their meadows, but they 
 also were now arid. All the land from the bay to 
 H Vlacke Bos 1 is low and level, without the least elevation. 
 There is also a tract which is somewhat large, of a kind of 
 heath, on which sheep could graze, though we saw none 
 upon it. This meadow (schorr), like all the others, is well 
 provided with good creeks which are navigable and very 
 serviceable for fisheries. There is here a grist-mill driven 
 by the water which they dam up in the creek ; and it is 
 hereabouts they go mostly to shoot snipe and wild geese. 
 In the middle of this meadow there is a grove into which 
 we went, and within which there was a good vale cleared 
 off and planted. On our return from this ramble we found 
 Jan Theunissen had come back with his company. He 
 welcomed us, but somewhat coldly, and so demeaned him- 
 self all the time we were there, as to astonish my comrade 
 at the change, but not me entirely, for I had observed this 
 falling off while we were yet at sea and were approaching 
 the land and even before that, and had remarked it to my 
 colleague, but he had more confidence in him. The day 
 having been thus passed, we remained here for the night to 
 sleep. In the evening we made the acquaintance of one 
 Jean Poppe, formerly a skipper in the "West Indies, whom 
 I had known when I lived there. He did not know me by 
 name or by vocation, but only that I lived there, and had 
 conversed with him there, but not much. He was tired of 
 
 1 Flutbush. 
 
V.V1 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 the sea, and not having accumulated much, lie had come 
 to settle down here, making hie living out of the business 
 of a turner, hy which lie could live bountifully. 
 
 Zd, Tuesday. This whole day it did nothing except rain, 
 with an E. and E. N. E. wind, so that we were compelled 
 to sit in their house, as in a prison all the time ; and it was 
 so much the worse because the house was constantly filled 
 with a multitude of godless people; for this father or father- 
 in-law of Jan Theunissen, being the principal person in 
 the place, was their captain, and having many children of 
 his own besides, there was a continual concourse at his 
 house. We had to remain, although it grieved us a great 
 deal. lint as we had heard that there was an Englishman 
 residing at Gravesend, named Bowman, who went every 
 year about this time with horses and sheep to the South 
 river, and would probably go there again in about three 
 weeks time, we resolved, when the rain was partly over, to 
 go and talk to him, which we did, arriving there towards 
 evening. We found him at home, and inquired of him as 
 to the situation. JIe said, he intended to leave in fourteen 
 days or at the longest in three weeks, with horses, and 
 would be happy to have our company on the road. He 
 told us several things touching the situation of the South 
 river, where he had a large tract of land which he intended 
 soon to put under cultivation. It being evening, and 
 nearer Jaques's house than the bay, we determined to go 
 there as we had previously intended. Mr. Bowman had 
 the kindness to conduct us a portion of the way so that we 
 could not go astray. We arrived at Jaques's house, where 
 we were welcome. The land around Gravesend is also, 
 flat, but not so flat or so barren as in the bay, and yields 
 good crops. 
 
 4th,- Wednesday. We slept for the night in our old place. 
 In the morning the horses were harnessed to the wagon for 
 the purpose of carrying us to the city, and bringing back 
 
A MERCHANT. A SCHOOLMASTER. 
 
 133 
 
 some medicines which had arrived for him (Jaques) from 
 Holland in our ship. We breakfasted to our full, and rode 
 first to the hay, where we had left our traveling bag. Seeing 
 there was nothing to be accomplished with our Jan 
 Thennissen, all his great promises having vanished without 
 the least result, though they had cost us dearly enough, we 
 let that rest quiet, and taking our leave, rode on to 't Vlacke 
 Bos, a village situated about an hour and a half's distance 
 from there, upon the same plain, which is very large. This 
 village seems to have better farms than the bay, and yields 
 full as much revenue. Riding through it, we came to the 
 woods and the hills, which are very stony and uncomfortable 
 to ride over. We rode over them, and passed through the 
 village of Breukelen to the ferry, and leaving the wagon 
 there, we crossed over the river and arrived at home at 
 noon, where we were able to rest a little, and where our 
 old people were glad to see us. We sent back to Jaques 
 half of our tincture calimanaris, and half of our balsam 
 sulphureus and some other things. He had been of service 
 to us in several respects, as he promised to be, and that 
 with perfect willingness. 
 
 5th, Thursday. We remained at home this morning, my 
 comrade having been a little indisposed the preceding day 
 and night, and betook ourselves to writing. At noon we 
 visited Mons. de La Grange, who was busily employed in 
 his little shop, packing and marking a parcel of ribbons 
 which he was going to send to Barbadoes, because, as he 
 said, he could not dispose of them here to advantage, 
 that is, with suflicient profit. We let him first finish his 
 work, and after that he took us to his counting room, where 
 his wife was. We did not fail to converse kindly with him 
 and his wife in relation to those matters in which we 
 believed they were sinning, notwithstanding all the little 
 reasons which pious people of that description are accus- 
 tomed to advance in extenuation of their sin and avarice. 
 
l.'!4 
 
 NEAV YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 As there were plenty of books around, my comrade 
 inquired of* him what book lie liked or esteemed the most. 
 Upon this he brought forward two of the elder Brakel, one 
 of which was, De Tragpen des Geestelycken Leven (the gra- 
 dations of spiritual life). 1 He also took down another 
 written by a Scotchman, of whom my comrade had some 
 knowledge, and translated by Domine Koelman. On my 
 return home, the son of our old people asked me if I would 
 not go to their usual catechizing, which they held once a 
 week at the house of Abraham Lanoy, schoolmaster, and 
 brother of the commissary in the custom house. I 
 accompanied him there, and found a company of about 
 twenty-five persons, male and female, but mostly young 
 people. It looked like a school, as indeed it was, more 
 than an assembly of persons who were seeking after true 
 godliness; where the schoolmaster, who instructed them, 
 handled the subject more like a schoolmaster in the midst 
 of his scholars than a person who knew and loved God, 
 and sought to make him known and loved. They sung 
 some verses from the psalms, made a prayer, and questioned 
 from the catechism, at the conclusion of which they prayed 
 and sung some verses from the psalms again. It was all 
 performed without respect or reverence, very literally, and 
 mixed up with much obscurity and error. He played, 
 however, the part of a learned and pious man, enfn le 
 suffisant et le petit prccheur. After their departure, I had an 
 opportunity of speaking to him and telling him what I 
 thought was good for him. He acknowledged that I con- 
 
 1 By Theodorus a-Brakel, father of the more distinguished divine, 
 William a-Brakel. He was descended from Roman Catholic stock in the 
 province of Brabant, but was born at Enkhuisen in North Holland in 
 1608. He was educated at Franeker, and called to minister first at Beers 
 in Fricsland, then at the Burgh on the island of Texel, and finally at 
 Makkum, where he died in 1G99. Like his son he was in strict orthodox} 7 
 with the Reformed church of Holland. — Kok. Vad. Hist. 
 
MANHATTAN ISLAND. 
 
 135 
 
 vineed him of several things; and thus leaving him I 
 returned home. 
 
 6th, Friday. "We remained in the house during the fore- 
 noon, hut after having dined we went out ahouttwo o'clock 
 to explore the island of Manathans. This island runs east 
 and west, or somewhat more northerly. On the north side 
 of it is the North river, hy which it is separated from the 
 main land on the north ; on the east end it is separated 
 from the main land by a creek, or rather a branch of the 
 North river, emptying itself into the East river. They can 
 go over this creek at dead low water, upon rocks and reefs, 
 at the place called Spyt den dwjvcl. This creek coming into 
 the East river forms with it the two Barents islands} At 
 the west end of these two running waters, that is, where 
 they come together to the east of these islands, they 
 make, with the rocks and reefs, such a frightful eddy and 
 whirlpool that it is exceedingly dangerous to pass through 
 them, especially with small boats, of which there are some 
 lost every now and then, and the persons in them drowned; 
 but experience has taught men the way of passing through 
 them with less danger. Large vessels have always less 
 danger because they are not capable of being carried along 
 so quickly. There are two places where such whirling of 
 the stream occurs, which are on account of the danger and 
 frightfulness called the Great and Little Hellgate. After 
 these two streams are united, the island of Manathans is 
 separated on the south from Long Island by the East river, 
 which, beginning at the bay before New York, runs east- 
 wardly, after forming several islands, again into the sea. 
 This island is about seven hours' distance in length, but it 
 is not a full hour broad. The sides are indented with bays, 
 coves and creeks. It is almost entirely taken up, that is, 
 the land is held by private owners, but not half of it is 
 
 1 Now called Great and Little Barn islands. 
 
13G 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 cultivated. Much of it is good wood laud. The went end 
 on which the city lies, is entirely cleared for more than an 
 hour's distance, though that is the poorest ground ; the best 
 being on the east and north side. There are many 
 brooks of fresh water running through it, pleasant and 
 proper for man and beast to drink, as well as agreeable to 
 behold, affording cool and pleasant resting places, but 
 especially suitable places for the construction of mills, for 
 although there is no overflow of water, yet it can be shut 
 off and so used. A little eastward of Nieu Haerlem there 
 are two ridges of very high rocks, with a considerable space 
 between them, displaying themselves very majestically, 
 and inviting all men to acknowledge in them the majesty, 
 grandeur, power and glory of their creator, who has 
 impressed such marks upon them. Between them runs 
 the road to Spyt den dwjvd. The one to the north is most 
 apparent; the south ridge is covered with earth on its 
 north side, but it can be seen from the water or from the 
 main laud beyond to the south. The soil between these 
 ridges is very good, though a little hilly and stony, and 
 would be very suitable in my opinion for planting vineyards, 
 in consequence of its being shut off on both sides from the 
 winds which would most injure them, and is very warm. 
 We found blue grapes along the road which were very good 
 and sweet, and as good as any I have tasted in the Father- 
 land. 
 
 We went from the city, following the Broadway, over 
 the valcy, or the fresh water. Upon both sides of this way 
 were many habitations of negroes, mulattoes and whites. 
 These negroes were formerly the proper slaves of the 
 (West India) company, but, in consequence of the frequent 
 changes and conquests of the country, they have obtained 
 their freedom and settled themselves down where they 
 have thought proper, and thus on this road, where they 
 have ground enough to live on with their families. We 
 
CAPT. JAMES CARTERET. 
 
 137 
 
 left the village, called the Boiaccrij, lying on the right hand, 
 and went through the woods to New Harlem, a tolerably 
 large village situated on the south side of the island, directly 
 opposite the place where the northeast creek and the East 
 river come together, situated about three hours journey 
 from New Amsterdam, like as old Harlem, in Europe, is 
 situated about three hours distance from old Amsterdam. 
 As our guide, Gerrit, had some business here, and found 
 many acquaintances, we remained over night at the house 
 of one Geresolveert, 1 scout (sheriff or constable), of the 
 place, who had formerly lived in Brazil, and whose heart 
 was still full of it. This house was constantly filled 
 with people, all the time chinking, for the most part, that 
 execrable rum. He had also the best cider we have 
 tasted. Among the crowd we found a person of quality, 
 an Englishman, named Captain Carteret, whose father is 
 in great favor with the king, and he himself had assisted 
 in several exploits in the king's service. He was adminis- 
 trator, or captain general, of the English forces which 
 went, in 1660, to retake St. Kitts, which the French had 
 entirely conquered, and were repulsed. He had also filled 
 some high office, during the war, in the ship of the Duke 
 of York, with two hundred infantry under his command. 
 The king has given to his father, Sir (George) Carteret, the 
 entire government of the lands west of the North river, in 
 New Netherland, with power to appoint as governor whom 
 he pleases ; and at this present time there is a governor 
 over it, by his appointment, another Carteret, his nephew, 
 I believe, who resides at Elizabethtown, in New Jersey. 2 
 
 1 Resolved, a christian name. 
 
 2 Philip Carteret, the brother, not the nephew, of Sir George, is the 
 person here meant. He was appointed governor of New Jersey under the 
 joint proprietorship of Lord Berkeley and Sir George Carteret, in 1GG4, 
 and of East Jersey in 1G74, under the sole grant to Sir George. He 
 resigned in 1082, and died in December of that year, in this country, 
 
 18 
 
138 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 From this Carteret, in England, the quakers have purchased 
 the privilege of a government of their own, over a large 
 tract of territory which they have hought and settled 
 within his dominion; and it is hut little different from 
 their having hought the entire right of government of the 
 whole of hi.- land. This son is a very profligate person. 
 He married a merchant's daughter here, and has so lived 
 with his wife that her father has hcen compelled to take 
 her home again. He rune ahout among the farmers, 
 and stays where he can find most to drink, and sleeps in 
 bams on the straw. If he conducted himself properly, he 
 could be not only governor here, hut hold higher positions, 
 for he has studied the moralities, and seems to have been 
 of a good understanding; but that is all now drowned. 
 His father, who will not acknowledge him as his son, as 
 before, allows him yearly as much only as is necessary for 
 him to live. 1 
 
 7ih, Saturday. This morning, about half-past six, we set 
 out from the village, in order to go to the end of the island ; 
 but before we left we did not omit supplying ourselves 
 with peaches which grew in an orchard along the road. 
 The whole ground was covered with them and with 
 apples, lying upon the new grain with which the orchard 
 was planted. The peaches were the most delicious we 
 had yet eaten. We proceeded on our way, and when we 
 were not far from the point of Spyt den duyvel, we could see 
 on our left hand the rocky cliffs of the main land on the 
 
 leaving a widow, the daughter of Richard Smith, of Sinithtown, on Long 
 island. — Whitclvead's East Jersey under the Proprietors, 36, 84 
 
 1 Captain James Cartaret, here described, was an illegitimate son of Sir 
 George. He was chosen governor of East Jersey, in 1672, by the 
 deputies of the disaffected inhabitants of Middletown and other towns, 
 which resisted the payment of rent to the co-proprietors. He enjoyed this 
 barren honor only a short time, as the opposition was completely overcome 
 in the following year. The mention of him in this journal seems to be the 
 only account of him afterwards. — Whiteheads East Jersey, &c, 55, 58. 
 
SPUYT DEN DUYVEL. SAPOKANIKKE. 139 
 
 other side of the North river, these cliffs standing straight up 
 and down, with the grain, just as if they were antimony. 
 "We crossed over the Spyt den dui/vel in a canoe, and paid 
 nine stuivers fare for us three, which was very dear. We 
 followed the opposite side of the land, and came to the 
 house of one Valentyn, a great acquaintance of our Gerrit. 
 He had gone to the city, but his wife, though she did not 
 know Gerrit or us, was so much rejoiced to see Hollanders, 
 that she hardly knew what to do for us. She set before 
 us what she had. We left after breakfasting there. Her 
 son showed us the way, and we came to a road which was 
 entirely covered with peaches. We asked the boy why they 
 left them lie there, and they did not let the hogs eat them. 
 He answered, we do not know what to do with them, there 
 are so many; the hogs are satiated with them and will not 
 eat any more. From this we may judge of the quantity 
 of them. We pursued our way now a small distance 
 through the woods and over the hills, then back again 
 along the shore to a point, where one Webblingk, an 
 Englishman, lived, who was standing ready to cross over. 
 He carried us over with him, and refused to take any pay 
 for our passage, offering us at the same time some of his 
 rum, a liquor which is everywhere. We were now again at 
 New Harlem, and dined with Geresolveert, at whose house 
 we slept the night before, and who made us welcome. It was 
 now two o'clock ; and leaving there, we crossed over the 
 island, which takes about three quarters of an hour to do, 
 and came to the North river, which we followed a little 
 within the woods, to Sappokanikke 1 . Gerrit having a sister 
 and friends there we rested ourselves, and drank some 
 good beer, which refreshed us. We continued along the 
 shore to the city, where we arrived in an hour in the 
 
 1 According to Judge Benson this was the Indian name of the point, 
 afterwards known as Greenwich, on the north side of the city. — New York 
 Historical Oolledtions, second series, 84. 
 
140 
 
 NEW YOKK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 evening, very much fatigued, having walked this day 
 about forty miles. I must add, in passing through this 
 island we sometimes encountered such a sweet smell in the 
 air that we stood still, because we did not know what it 
 was we were meeting. 
 
 8///, Sunday. We staid home this morning for the purpose 
 of writing and resting ourselves. Gerrit requested me to 
 shave him, as did also an old countryman of A7 reshirk who 
 lodged at our house, which was the first time in my life 
 that I had ever shaved any one. It afforded us an oppor- 
 tunity of speaking to this countryman about various 
 matters touching the country. We intended in the after- 
 noon to attend the English service, but, on going to the 
 fort, the sentinel told us there was no English preaching in 
 the afternoon, and we returned home. 
 
 9th, Mmdtty. We remained at home to-day, except I 
 went out to ascertain whether there was any way of going 
 over to Staten island. Meanwhile we began to dispose of 
 some of our large merchandise. Gerrit went out to 
 S'i,,nl:ari, to do some carpenter's work. We tasted to-day 
 some very fine grapes. 
 
 10th, Tuesday. Finding no opportunity of going to Staten 
 island, we asked our old friend Symon, who had come over 
 from Goiianes, what was the best way for us to get there, 
 when he offered us his services to take us over in his skiff, 
 which we accepted; and at dusk accompanied him in his 
 boat to Gouanes, where we arrived about eight o'clock, and 
 where he welcomed us and entertained us well. 
 
 11th, Wednesday. We embarked early this morning in 
 his boat and rowed over to Staten island, where we arrived 
 about eight o'clock. He left us there, and we went on our 
 way. This island is about thirty-two miles long and four 
 broad. Its sides are very irregular, with projecting points 
 and indented bays, and creeks running deep into the 
 countiy. It lies for the most part east and west, and is 
 
STATEN ISLAND. 
 
 141 
 
 somewhat triangular. The most prominent point is to the 
 west. On the east side is the narrow passage which they 
 call the channel, by which it is separated from the high 
 point of Long Island. On the south is the great bay which 
 is inclosed by Nayaq, f Conijnen island, Rentsclaer's Hook, 
 Nevesinck, &c. On the west is the Bantam. On the north 
 or northwest is New Jersey, from which it is separated by 
 a larsre creek or arm of the river, called Kil van koL The 
 eastern part is high and steep, and has few inhabitants. It 
 is the usual place where ships, ready for sea, stop to take 
 in water, while the captain and passengers are engaged in 
 making their own arrangements and writing letters previous 
 to their departure. The whole south side is a large plain, 
 with much salt meadow or marsh, and several creeks. The 
 west point is flat, and on or around it is a large creek with 
 much marsh ; but to the north of this creek it is high and 
 hilly, and beyond that it begins to be more level, but not 
 so low as on the other side, and is well populated. On the 
 northwest it is well provided with creeks and marshes, and 
 the land is generally better than on the south side, although 
 there is a good parcel of land in the middle of the latter. 
 As regards the middle or most hilly part of the island, it is 
 uninhabited, although the soil is better than the land 
 around it ; but, in consequence of its being away from the 
 water, and lying so high, no one will live there, the creeks 
 and rivers being so serviceable to them in enabling them 
 to go to the city, and for fishing and catching oysters, and 
 for being near the salt meadows. The woods are used for 
 pasturing horses and cattle, for being an island, none of 
 them can get off". Each person has marks upon his own 
 by which he can find them when he wants them. When 
 the population of the country shall increase, these places 
 will be taken up. Game of all kinds is plenty, and twenty- 
 five and thirty deer are sometimes seen in a herd. A boy 
 who came in- a house where we were, told us he had shot 
 
142 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 ten the last winter himself, and more than forty in his life, 
 and in the same manner other game. We tasted here the 
 best grapes. There are now ahout a hundred families on 
 the island, of which the English constitute the least portion, 
 and the Dutch and French divide hetween them about 
 equally the greater portion. They have neither church nor 
 minister, and live rather far from each other, and incon- 
 veniently to meet together. The English are less disposed 
 to religion, and inquire little after it, but in case there were 
 a minister, would contribute to his support. The French 
 and Dutch are very desirous and eager for one, for they 
 spoke of it wherever we went, and said, in the event of 
 not obtaining Domine Tessemaker, they would send, or 
 had sent, to France for another. The French are good 
 Reformed churchmen, and some of them are Walloons. 
 The Dutch are also from different quarters. 
 
 We reached the island, as I have said, about nine o'clock, 
 directly opposite Gouanes, not far from the watering place. 
 We proceeded southwardly along the shore of the high 
 land on the east end, where it was sometimes stony and 
 rocky, and sometimes sandy, supplied with fine constantly- 
 flowing springs with which at times we quenched our 
 thirst. We had now come nearly to the furthest point on 
 the southeast, behind which I had observed several houses 
 when we came in with the ship. We had also made inquiry 
 as to the villages through which we would have to pass, 
 and they had told us the Chide. Doiy would be the first one 
 we would come to; but my comrade finding the point very 
 rocky and difficult, and believing the village was inland, 
 and as we discovered no path to follow, we determined to 
 clamber to the top of this steep bluff, through the bushes 
 and thickets, which we accomplished with great difficulty 
 and in a perspiration. We found as little of a road above 
 as below, and nothing but woods, through which one could 
 not see. There appeared to be a little foot-path along the 
 
OLD DORP. NEW DORP. 
 
 143 
 
 edge which I followed a short distance to the side of the 
 point, hut my comrade calling me and saying that he cer- 
 tainly thought we had passed by the road to the Oude Dorp, 
 and observing myself that the little path led down to the 
 point, I returned again, and we followed it the other way, 
 which led us back to the place from where we started. 
 We supposed we ought to go from the shore in order to 
 find the road to the Oude Dorp, and seeing here these slight 
 tracks into the woods, we followed them as far as we could, 
 till at last they ran to nothing else than dry leaves. Having 
 wandered an hour or more in the woods, now in a hollow 
 and then over a hill, at one time through . a swamp, at 
 another across a brook, without finding any road or path, 
 we entirely lost the way. "We could see nothing except a 
 little of the sky through the thick branches of the trees 
 above our heads, and we thought it best to break out of 
 the woods entirely and regain the shore. I had taken an 
 observation of the shore and point, having been able to 
 look at the sun, which shone extraordinarily hot in the 
 thick woods, without the least breath of air stirring. We 
 made our way at last as well as we could out of the woods, 
 and struck the shore a quarter of an hour's distance from 
 where we began to climb up. We were rejoiced, as there 
 was a house not far from the place where we came out. 
 We went to it to see if we could find any one who would 
 show us the way a little. There was no master in it, but 
 an Englishwoman with negroes and servants. We first 
 asked her as to the road, and then for something to drink, 
 and also for some one to show us the road ; but she refused 
 the last, although we were willing to pay for it. She 
 was a cross woman. She said she had never been in the 
 village, and her folks must work, and we would certainly 
 have to go away as wise as we came. She said, however, 
 we must follow the shore, as we did. We went now over 
 the rocky point, which we were no sooner over than we 
 
14 4 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 saw a pretty little sand bay, and a small creek, and not 
 far from there, cattle and houses. We also saw the point to 
 which the little path led from the hill above, where I was 
 when my comrade called me. We would not have had 
 more than three hundred steps to go to have been where 
 we now were. It was very hot, and we perspired a great 
 deal. We went on to the little creek to sit down and rest 
 ourselves there, and to cool our feet, and then proceeded 
 to the houses which constituted the Oude Dorp. It was 
 now about two o'clock. There were seven houses, but 
 only three in which any body lived. The others were 
 abandoned, and their owners had gone to live on better 
 places on the island, because the ground around this village 
 was worn out and barren, and also too limited for their use. 
 We went into the first house which was inhabited by 
 English, and there rested ourselves and eat, and inquired 
 further after the road. The woman was cross, and her 
 husband not much better. We had to pay here for what 
 we eat which we had not done before. We paid three 
 o-uilders in zeewan, although we only drank water. AVe 
 proceeded by a tolerably good road to the Nieuwe Dorp, but 
 as the road ran continually in the woods, we got astray 
 a-ain in them. It was dark, and we were compelled to 
 break our way out through the woods and thickets, and 
 we went a great distance before we succeeded, when it 
 was almost entirely dark. We saw a house at a distance 
 to which we directed ourselves across the bushes. It was 
 the first house of the Nieuwe Dorp. We found there an 
 Englishman who could speak Dutch, and who received us 
 very cordially into his house, where we had as good as he 
 and his wife had. She was a Dutch woman from the 
 3Ianhatans, who was glad to have us in her house. 
 
 1-Vh Thursday. Although we had not slept well, we had 
 to resume our journey with the day. The man where we 
 slept set us on the road. We had now no more villages to 
 
WESTFIELD. HUGUENOTS. 145 
 
 go to, but went from one plantation to another, for the most 
 part belonging to French, who showed us every kindness 
 because we conversed with them in French, and spoke of 
 the ways of the Lord according to their condition. About 
 one-third part of the distance from the south side to the 
 west end is still all woods, and is very little visited. "We 
 had to go along the shore, finding sometimes fine creeks 
 well provided with wild turkeys, geese, snipes and wood 
 hens. Lying rotting upon the shore were thousands of fish 
 called marsbancken, which are about the size of a common 
 carp. These fish swim close together in large schools, and 
 are pursued so by other fish that they are forced upon the 
 shore in order to avoid the mouths of their enemies, and 
 when the water falls they are left there to die, food for the 
 eagles and other birds of prey. Proceeding thus along we 
 came to the "West point where an Englishman lived alone 
 some distance from the road. We eat something here, 
 and he gave us the consolation that we would have a very 
 bad road for two or three hours ahead, which indeed we 
 experienced, for there was neither path nor road. He 
 showed us as well as he could. There was a large creek 
 to cross which ran very far into the land, and when we 
 should get on the other side of it, we must, he said, go 
 outward again along (the shore). After we had gone a 
 piece of the way through the woods, we came to a valley 
 with a brook running through it, which we took to be the 
 creek or the end of it. We turned round it as short as we 
 could, in order to go back again to the shore, which we 
 reached after wandering a long time over hill and dale, 
 when we saw the creek, which we supposed we had crossed, 
 now just before us. We followed the side of it deep into 
 the woods, and when we arrived at the end of it saw no 
 path along the other side to get outwards again, but the 
 road ran into the woods in order to cut off" a point of the 
 hills and land. "We pursued this road for some time, but . 
 19 
 
146 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 saw no mode of getting out, and that it led further and 
 further from the creek. We, therefore, left the road and 
 went across through the hushes, so as to reach the shore 
 by the nearest route according to our calculation. After 
 continuing this course ahout an hour, we saw at a distance 
 a miserably constructed tabernacle of pieces of wood 
 covered with brush, all open in front, and where we thought 
 there were Indians; but on coming up to it we found in it 
 an Englishman sick, and his wife and child lying upon 
 some bushes by a little fire. We asked him if he were 
 sick. " Do you ask me whether I am sick ? I have been 
 sick here over two months," he replied. It made my heart 
 sore indeed, for I had never in all my life seen such poverty, 
 and that, too, in the middle of a woods and a wilderness. 
 After we obtained some information as to the way, we went 
 on, and had not gone far before we came to another house, 
 and thus from one farm to another, French, Dutch and a 
 few English, so that we had not wandered very tar out of 
 the way. We inquired at each house the way to the next 
 one. Shortly before evening we arrived at the plantation 
 of a Frenchman, whom they called Le Chvadronnier (the 
 coppersmith), who was formerly a soldier under the Prince 
 of Orange, and had served in Brazil. He was so delighted, 
 and held on to us so hard, that we remained and spent the 
 night with him. 
 
 13th, Friday. We pursued our journey this morning 
 from plantation to plantation, the same as yesterday, until 
 we came to that of Pierre le Gardmier, who had been a 
 gardener of the Prince of Orange, and had known him well. 
 He had a large family of children and grand-children. He 
 was about seventy years of age, and was still as fresh and 
 active as a young person. He was so glad to see strangers 
 who conversed with him and his in the French language 
 about the good, that he leaped for joy. After we had 
 
FRESHKILLS. ELIZABETHTOWN. MR. WOOLEY. 147 
 
 breakfasted here they told us that we had another large 
 creek to pass called the Fresh kil, and there we could per- 
 haps be set across the Kil van Kol to the point of Mill creek, 
 where we might wait for a boat to convey as to the Man- 
 hatans. The road was long and difficult, and we asked for 
 a guide, but he had no one, in consequence of several of 
 his children being sick. At last he determined to go him- 
 self, and accordingly carried us in his canoe over to the 
 point of Mill creek in New Jersey behind Kol {achter Kol)} 
 We learned immediately that there was a boat up this creek 
 loading with brick, and would leave that night for the city. 
 After we had thanked and parted with Pierre le Gardinier, 
 we determined to walk to Elizabethtown, a good half 
 hour's distance inland, where the boat was. From the 
 point to this village there is a fine wagon road, but nowhere 
 in the country had we been so pestered with mosquitos 
 (muggen) as we were on this road. The land about here is 
 very poor, and is not well peopled. "We found the boat, 
 and spoke to the captain who left about two hours after- 
 wards ; but as the wind was against going out of the creek, 
 he lay by and waited for the tide. We returned by 
 evening to the point where we were to stay until morning. 
 There was a tavern on it, kept by French papists, who at 
 once took us to be priests, and so conducted themselves 
 towards us in every respect accordingly, although we told 
 them and protested otherwise. As there was nothing to 
 be said further we remained so in their imaginations to 
 the last, as shown both in their words and actions, the more 
 
 1 " En bracht ons met syn canoo tot op de lioeck van de molen Ml aen Nieu 
 Jarnesee achter kol." The term achter kol, literally behind kol, that is, back 
 of the kol, a name given to the river or kil between Staten island and the 
 main land from its peculiar shape, was applied to all the territory west of 
 that river or kil and the Hackensack. Kol is here used as an abbreviation 
 of kil van kol. Mill creek seems to have been the stream now known as 
 Elizabethtown creek. 
 
148 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 certainly because we spoke French, and they were French 
 people. We slept there this night, and at three o'clock in 
 the morning we set sail 
 
 Uth, Saturday. Being under sail, as I have said, it wa* 
 so entirely calm that we could only float with the stream 
 until we came to the Shatters island, where we obtained 
 the tide again. It was now about four o'clock. In order 
 to protect ourselves from the air which was very cold and 
 piercing, we crept under the sail which was very old and 
 full of holes. The tide having run out by daylight we 
 came under sail again, with a good wind which brought us 
 to the city at about eight o'clock, for which we were glad 
 and returning thanks to God, betook ourselves to rest. 
 
 15th, Sunday. We went at noon to-day to hear the English 
 minister, whose services took place after the Dutch church 
 was out. There were not above twenty-five or thirty 
 people in the church. The first thing that occurred was 
 the reading of all their prayers and ceremonies out of the 
 prayer book, as is done in all Episcopal churches. A young 
 man then went into the pulpit and commenced preaching 
 who thought he was performing wonders; but he had a 
 little book in his hand out of which he read his sermon 
 winch was about a quarter of an hour or half an hour long 1 
 A\ ith this the services were concluded, at which we could 
 not be sufficiently astonished. This was all that happened 
 with us to-day. 
 
 16th, Monday. I was occupied to-day in copying my 
 
 'The only English minister in the whole province at this time was 
 at ached to the garrison at the city of New York. This was the Rev 
 Charles Wooley, a graduate of Emanuel College, Cambridge, in 1677 He 
 came to New York in August, 1678, and left there for England inJuly, 
 1680. He was the author of a small volume with the title of ^ Two Yeart 
 Journal t n Mw York, &c, published in 1701, and recently republished 
 w: h notes by Dr. E. B. O'Callaghan, in Mr. Cowans' interesting series of 
 early works on the colonies. 
 
THE OLD INDIAN OF AQUAKENONK. 
 
 149 
 
 journal. In the morning there came an Indian to our 
 house, a man about eighty years of age, whom our people 
 called Jasper, who lived at Ahakinsack or at Akinon. Con- 
 cerning this Indian our old people related that when they 
 lived on Long Island, it was once a very dear time ; no 
 provisions could be obtained, and they suffered great want, 
 so that they were reduced to the last extremity ; that God 
 the Lord then raised up this Indian, who went out a fishing 
 daily in order to bring fish to them every day when he 
 caught a good mess, which he always did. If, when he 
 came to the house, he found it alone, and they were out 
 working in the fields, he did not fail, but opened the door, 
 laid the fish on the floor, and proceeded on his way. For 
 this reason these people possess great affection for him and 
 have given him the name of Jasper, and also my nitap, that 
 is, my great friend. He never comes to the Manhatans 
 without visiting them and eating with them, as he now 
 did, as among his old friends. We asked him why he had 
 done so much kindness to these people. " I have always 
 been inclined," he answered, " from my youth up to do 
 good, especially to good people, known to me. I took the 
 fish to them because Maneto (the devil) said to me, you 
 must take fish to these people, whispering ever in my ear 
 'you must take fish to them.' I had to do it, or Maneto 
 would have killed me." Our old woman telling us he some- 
 times got drunk, we said to him he should not do so any 
 more, that the great Sakemacker (the Lord) who is above, 
 was offended at such conduct and would kill him. " No," 
 said he, laughing as if that were a mistake of ours, " it is 
 Maneto who kill those who do evil, and leaves those who 
 do good at peace." " That is only " we replied, " because 
 Maneto is the slave and executioner of the great Sakemacker 
 above ; " and we then asked him if he believed there was 
 such a great and good Sakemacker there ? " Undoubtedly," 
 he said, " but he remains above, and does not trouble him- 
 
150 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 self with the earth or earthly things, because he does 
 nothing except what is good; but Maneto, who also is a 
 Bakemacker, and is here below, and governs all, and 
 punishes and torments those men who do evil and drink 
 themselves drunk." Hereupon we inquired of him why 
 he did so then. " Yes," he said, " I had rather not, but 
 my heart is so inclined that it causes me to do it, although 
 1 know it is wrong. The Christians taught it to us, and 
 give us or sell us the drink, and drink themselves drunk." 
 We said to him : " Listen ! if we came to live near you, you 
 would never see us drunk, nor would we give or sell you 
 or your people any rum." " That," he replied, "would be 
 good." We told him he must not make such a difference 
 between himself and a Christian, because one was white 
 and the other red, and one wore clothes and the other went 
 almost naked, or one was called a Christian and the other 
 an Indian, that this great and good Sakemacker was the 
 father of us all, and had made us all, and that all who did 
 not do good would be killed by Maneto whether they were 
 called Christians or Indians; but that all who should do 
 good would go to this good Sakemacker above. " Yes," 
 said he, " we do not know or speak to this Sakemacker, but 
 Maneto we know and speak to, but you people, who can 
 read and write, know and converse with this Sakemacker." 
 
 We asked him, where he believed he came from ? He 
 answered from his father. " And where did your father 
 come from ? " we said, " and your grand-father and great 
 grand-father, and so on to the first of the race?" He was 
 silent for a little while, either as if unable to climb up at 
 once so high with his thoughts, or to express them without 
 help, and then took a piece of coal out of the fire where 
 he sat, and began to write upon the floor. He first drew a 
 circle, a little oval, to which he made four paws or feet, a 
 head and a tail. "This," said he, " is a tortoise, lying in 
 the water around it," and he moved his hand round the 
 
THE ORIGIN OF MAN. THE INDIAN DRUNK. 
 
 151 
 
 figure, continuing, " this was or is all water, and so at first 
 was the world or the earth, when the tortoise gradually 
 raised its round hack up high, and the water ran off of it, 
 and thus the earth became dry." He then took a little 
 straw and placed it on end in the middle of the figure, and 
 proceeded, " the earth was now dry, and there grew a tree 
 in the middle of the earth, and the root of this tree sent 
 forth a sprout heside it and there grew upon it a man, who 
 was the first male. This man was then alone, and would 
 have remained alone; but the tree bent over until its top 
 touched the earth, and there shot therein another root, from 
 which came forth another sprout, and there grew upon it 
 the woman, and from these two are all men produced." 
 "We gave him four fish-hooks with which he was much 
 pleased, and immediately calculated how much in money 
 he had obtained. " I have got twenty four stuivers worth," 
 he said. He then inquired our names, which we gave 
 him, and wished to know why he asked for them ? " Well," 
 he replied, "because you are good people and are true 
 nitaps ; and in case you should come into the woods and 
 fall into the hands of the Indians, and they should wish 
 to kill or harm you, if I know or hear of it I might help 
 you, for they will do you no injury when they know me." 
 For he was the brother of a Sackemaker. We told him 
 that we did not give them to him on that account, but only 
 from regard because he was a good person, although the 
 good will or thankfulness which he wished to show thereby 
 was good. " Well," he said, " that is good, that is good," 
 with which, after eating something, he departed. 
 
 But at noon he returned with a young Indian, both of 
 them so drunk they could not speak, and having a calabash 
 of liquor with them. We chided him, but to no purpose, 
 for he could neither use his reason nor speak so as to be 
 understood. The young Indian with him wasaSackemaker's 
 
152 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 son, and was bold. He wanted to have a piece of meat 
 that was on the table, and on which we all had to make our 
 dinner, when we told him it was not for him. " Yes," 
 said he, "I see it is so;" nevertheless, and although we 
 offered him something else to eat, he was evilly disposed 
 and dissatisfied, and would take nothing except the piece 
 of meat alone ; but that was not given to him. Whereupon 
 Jasper told him he must be quiet, that the old people and 
 we were all his nitaps, and by degrees quieted him, they 
 sitting together by the fire and drinking their rum. They 
 left afterwards for Long Island. 
 
 17th, Tuesday. Nothing transpired to-day. 
 18(h, Wednesday. In the afternoon Jasper, the Indian, 
 came back again, and proceeded confidently to our room 
 in the rear of the house, but sober and in his senses. He 
 told us how he had been with his nephew, the Sackemaker's 
 son to Long Island, among the other Indians ; and that he 
 had given away, not only his fish-hooks, but also his shoes 
 and stockings. We found fault with him at first for having 
 become so drunk, contrary to his promise, and when he 
 well knew it was wrong. To which he said he had to buy 
 some nails for an Englishman who lived near him, from 
 another Englishman here, who had sold and given him the 
 rum. 
 
 I must here remark, in passing, that the people in this 
 city, who are most all traders in small articles, whenever 
 they see an Indian enter the house, who they know has any 
 money, they immediately set about getting hold of him, 
 giving him rum to drink, whereby he is soon caught and 
 becomes half a fool. If he should then buy any thing, he 
 is doubly cheated, in the wares, and in the price. He is 
 then urged to buy more drink, which they now make half 
 water, and if he cannot drink it, they drink it themselves. 
 They do not rest until they have cajoled him out of all his 
 money, or most of it; and if that cannot be done in one 
 
EPHEAIM HEERMANS. 
 
 153 
 
 day, they keep him, and let him lodge and sleep there, but 
 in some out of the way place, down on the ground, guard- 
 ing their merchandise and other property in the meantime, 
 and always managing it so that the poor creature does not 
 go away before he has given them all they want. And 
 these miserable Christians are so much the more eager in 
 this respect, because no money circulates among themselves, 
 and they pay each other in wares, in which they are 
 constantly cheating and defrauding each other. Although 
 it is forbidden to sell the drink to the Indians, yet every 
 one does it, and so much the more earnestly, and with so 
 much greater and burning avarice, that it is done in secret. 
 To this extent and further, reaches the damnable and insa- 
 tiable covetousness of most of those who here call themselves 
 Christians. Truly, our hearts grieved when we heard of 
 these things, which call so grievously upon the supreme 
 judge for vengeance. He will not always let his name be 
 so profaned and exposed to reproach and execration. 
 
 "We asked Jasper, why he had given away his hooks and 
 stockings. He said, it was a custom among them, for the 
 lesser to give to the greater. "We replied the Sackemaker 
 was richer than he, and he should, therefore, have kept them. 
 "No," he said, "I did it as a mark of respect and obedience." 
 "We gave him four more fish-hooks, and told him he must 
 take care of them for himself. "I will bring you fish as 
 soon as I. catch any," he said as he went away, promising 
 also that he would get drunk no more. 
 
 From this time until the 22d of October, nothing special 
 took place, except that we spoke to one Ephraim, a young 
 trader, who was just married here, and who intended to go 
 with his wife to the South river, where he usually dwelt, 
 for which purpose he was only waiting for horses and men 
 from there. 1 He tendered us his services and his horses, 
 
 1 This person avus Ephraim Heermans, son of Augustine Heermans, of 
 both of whom we will hear more in the sequel. 
 20 
 
154 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 if wc would accompany him, and offered to carry us in Inn 
 own boat everywhere on that river, from the falls (of the 
 Delaware), to which we would have to travel by land, and 
 where the boat would be waiting for him to take him down 
 the river; since he himself would have to touch at many 
 places on the river, in going down. As Bowman, who 
 was going there with horses, did not make his appearance, 
 we accepted the offer with thankfulness, waiting only for 
 the time. 
 
 ■1-Mb, Ti.icstloi/. Margaret's ship in which we arrived here, 
 being ready to leave, but she not going in it, as it was said, 
 we set about writing letters, which we might give to our 
 1 vol nil, and finished them to-day, and also the copying of 
 my journal. 
 
 25th, Wednesday. Having closed up our letters, we had 
 Robyn at our house, and gave them to him in his own hands, 
 as we had heard from the supercargo himself that he would 
 run into Falmouth again for the purpose of paying the 
 duties; we gave Robyn money to post our letters over Lon- 
 don, together with something for his trouble, and with this, 
 wishing him the blessing of the Lord, we took leave of 
 him ; but recollecting afterwards that we had forgotten to 
 put a date to the letters, which was very necessary, I had 
 to go in search of Robyn again, whom I found at last, and 
 took back from him the Jetters. When we had resealed 
 them, I went after him again, but he had gone on board 
 the ship. I waited for an opportunity and went on board 
 myself, and handed them to him again. He was glad to 
 see me on board ; and while there I went looking around 
 to see how the ship was laden, and found her so full 
 that the poor sailors had scarcely room to eat or sleep. 
 The boatswain who had now become mate, because the 
 Dutch mate, Evert, had become captain of a ketch, 
 treated me with much kindness ; but as the boat and 
 
COMMUNIPAW. BERGEN. 
 
 155 
 
 sailors were continually ashore, it was dark before I could 
 reach the land. 
 
 26th, Thursday. We inquired whether our journey to the 
 south would soon take place, and was informed it would 
 not be this week. We resolved not to remain idle, and to 
 embrace the opportunity to cross to-morrow over the North 
 river opposite the fort to a place called Ghmoenepaen, as 
 soon as we could find the means of passage. 
 
 27 th, Friday. We went after breakfast to see if we could 
 be taken over the river. We found a boat going soon, 
 but we must wait a little. In the meanwhile we made the 
 acquaintance of a person from Zeeland, or who had lived 
 there a long time, for he himself was a Hollander. He 
 had been an apprentice to Jaques Fierens, printer, in the 
 Globe in the Gi street, and, although I had been often 
 enough in that house, and he knew my face, he did not 
 know me particularly. He came to this country with Cor- 
 nells Everts of Zeeland, and had assisted in taking it from 
 the English in 1674. He had remained here since and 
 married. He sometimes bound old books, and was the 
 only bookbinder in the country. 
 
 It was about noon when we crossed over. Our old 
 woman at the house had told us of another good woman 
 who lived at this place, named Fitie, from Cologne, and 
 recommended us to visit her, which we did as soon as we 
 landed. We found her a little pious after the manner of 
 the country, and you could discover that there was some- 
 thing of the Lord in her, but very much covered up and 
 defiled. We dined there and spoke to her of what we 
 deemed necessary for her condition. She has many grand- 
 children, all of whom are not unjust. We continued our 
 journey along a fine broad wagon road to the other village, 
 called Bergen, a good half hour or three-quarters, inland 
 from there, where the villagers, who are most all Dutch, 
 received us well, and were rejoiced to see us. They 
 
156 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 inquired and spoke to us about various things. We also 
 found there the cook of the vessel in whieh we came over. 
 He was sick of the ship, and was stopping ashore with his 
 relations here in order to recruit himself. He entertained 
 us according to his ability, and gave us some Hespam 
 (raccoon) to eat, a wild animal somewhat larger than a cat. 
 It was very fat, and of a good flavor, almost like a pig. 
 The skins of these animals are good peltry, and are sent 
 in great quantities to Europe. We had also some good 
 cider. Our cook took a small walk with us over the 
 country, and showed us the situation of the plantations 
 around there, as he had lived there a long time, and con- 
 sequently was acquainted with all these farms. The soil 
 was very good, and indeed of the best that we had seen 
 anywhere. This good ground was for the most part on the 
 declivities of the hills, and so on below. The Slaivjcn 
 Bcn/h (Snake's Hill) of which I had heard much, and 
 which I had imagined to myself was a large projecting 
 hill, lies close by and is only a small round hill ; and is so 
 named on account of the numerous snakes which infest it. 
 It stands quite alone, and is almost entirely encircled by 
 the Xorth kil. 1 It is nothing but rocks and stones, with a 
 little earth up above where a plantation could be formed. 
 We returned to the village by evening, and lodged with 
 one Ch.cs Fransen, who had brought us over the river. He 
 had a good old mother, and also a brother living there. 
 His other brothers were married, and lived in the same 
 village. We conversed with these people about spiritual 
 things, and had great enjoyment therein. We were entirely 
 welcome. We slept upon some straw on the floor, and it 
 was lucky for us that he sold blankets, some of which he 
 used to cover us. We have nowhere, to my knowledge, 
 seen or eaten finer apples. One kind was very large, fair, 
 
 1 Hackingsack river. 
 
NO MINISTER AT BERGEN. 
 
 157 
 
 and of good taste, fifty-six of which only conld he put in a 
 heaped up hushel (schepcl), that is, half a hag. Another 
 variety, somewhat smaller, but not less fair in appearance, 
 and of a better flavor, my comrade was acquainted witb, 
 and said they were called the Double Paradise. He acknow- 
 ledged they were very delicate. 
 
 28th, Saturday. Early this morning Claes prepared to 
 cross over to the Manhatans, to carry to market some fine 
 fat mutton from a sheep which he had killed the night 
 before. He sold it for three cents (twee blanken) a pound, 
 reckoned in Holland money and Amsterdam weight. It 
 was rainy the whole morning, and it had stormed so hard 
 in the night that we could not find a dry place in the house 
 to lie in. We were apprehensive of hearing of some mis- 
 fortune to the ships, especially two lying under Staten 
 island, one of which was Margaret's, and was bound for 
 Holland. Claes was alarmed for his boat, in which we had 
 to cross over ; but going to the shore about eleven o'clock, 
 he found it there, but half full of rain water. The mast 
 which he had left standing was overboard, and to be looked 
 for, but was afterwards found, and the mast bench and 
 socket were out of their places, and in pieces. He had, 
 therefore, some repairs to make. It cleared up gradually, 
 and he resolved to cross over, which he was the more 
 anxious to do, because he was going to bring back Domine 
 Tessemaker, who had promised to come the next day and 
 preach for them before his departure ; for although there is 
 a considerable congregation in this vicinity, and they are 
 abundantly able to support a minister, they have none ; 
 for it is not easy to obtain one, and there is no probability 
 of their doing so as long as the country belongs to the 
 English, though they intend to build a church next spring. 
 For the present they have nobody except a voorleser (clerk), 
 who performs his service for them on Sundays, in the 
 school house, where they assemble. They have, however, 
 
158 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 agreed with the minister of the city to administer there the 
 Lord's Supper three times a year, for which he receives 
 thirty bushels or fifteen bags of wheat. This service he 
 performs on week-days, because he cannot be absent from 
 the city on Sundays, where he is the only minister. This 
 Gmoenepaen is an arm of the main land on the west side 
 ot the North river, beginning at Constable's Hook, directly 
 opposite Staten island, from which it is separated by the 
 KU van Kol On the east is the North river ; on the north 
 the main land Pavoni or Haverstroo, or indeed Hackiwjsack ■ 
 and on the west, the North Ml, which separates it from New 
 Jersey and Elizabethtown. It is almost an hour broad, 
 but has large salt meadows or marshes on the kil. It has 
 many bays and inlets, and lies very commodiously for the 
 inhabitants, because it is everywhere accessible by water 
 from the city. The village of Bergen lies about in the 
 middle of the tract, and has been reasonably strong in time of 
 the war with the Indians. 1 It has very fine farms which yield 
 well. 
 
 As we were about to cross, an Indian came up, who also 
 desired to be carried over. He asked the skipper whether 
 he might go over with him, who replied he had too much 
 freight "Well," said he, "I will pay you for that. How 
 
 1 Tins passage is obscure. The original reads as follows : Het dorp Ber- 
 gen Uijt omtrcnl op het mulden van de streek, en is redelijck vast geweest in tyde 
 tan oorlogh rnelde wilde. The Indian war here referred to was probably 
 that of 1656, when the Indians made a descent upon New Amsterdam 
 and after being driven from that city, crossed over to Pavonia, and 
 destroyed the buildings, and killed or captured the inhabitants O'C'alla- 
 ghan's New Mtherland, II, 290-1. When Bergen was first settled, is not 
 positively known, but it was recognized as an existing village by the 
 director-general and council of New Netherland in 1661. Taylor's Annals 
 of the Classis of Bergen, 50-51. It would seem, therefore, to have been 
 settled before the last mentioned year, and it may have been " reasonably 
 strong; " that is, settled at the time Pavonia was burned. The word vast 
 which we have rendered by strong, may, however, have another significa- 
 
QUAKER MEETING. 
 
 159 
 
 much freight do the people give you ? " The skipper 
 answered six cents in seewan." " Well then," said the 
 Indian, " I will give you seven." This made us all laugh, 
 because he valued himself less and bound bimself to pay 
 more than the others. We, therefore, took him with us. 
 The river here is full four miles wide, and when it blows, 
 especially from the north or northwest, there is some- 
 times a rolling sea, making it dangerous to cross over, par- 
 ticularly in small boats. While we were in the village of 
 Bergen, a person came to us who was willing to take us up 
 through the Northwest Ml, where we were inclined to go, 
 because Jaques of Long Island and his associates, had 
 bought for a trifle, a piece of land there of twelve thousand 
 morgen 1 and he had related wonders to us about it; and that 
 above his land, and above the falls which are more than an 
 hour's distance from it, there was another tract still better, 
 which was corroborated by almost every one, especially in 
 Bergen, whose inhabitants were very well acquainted there, 
 and some of whom had bought a large piece of land close 
 by. The before mentioned tract was considered by them 
 the best in all 'New ISTetherland. We, therefore, did not 
 reject the offer of this person, but only postponed it until 
 a later opportunity, perhaps after our return from the South 
 river. They said this piece of land was very large, and 
 could be increased to twenty-five or thirty thousand morgen, 
 which the Indians were disposed to sell, and we could buy 
 for a small price. When we reached home we showed our 
 old people the apples which we had brought with us, and 
 
 1 A rnorgen is about two acres of land. Smith, in his History of New 
 Jersey, 1.39, alluding to the earliest settlements on the Passaic river, says 
 that above an island there belonging to Christopher Hoogland, of 
 Newark, was " a large tract belonging to Jaques Cartelayne (Cortelyou) 
 and partners, who now (1082), made some settlement. These tracts 
 were within the jurisdiction of Newark." Cortelyou's purchase was at 
 Aquackanonk. 
 
160 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 they confessed that as long as they had lived in the country, 
 they had never seen any finer or larger. 
 
 29th, Sunday. We had heen last Sunday to hear the 
 quakers, but the greater portion of them were on Long 
 Island, so that nothing was done. My comrade had a 
 mind to go again to-day, but I remained at home. After 
 waiting two hours, he went to hear the episcopalians and 
 then returned to the quakers, who had remained all this 
 time sitting silent and gazing. He then took a walk 
 out for a •considerable time, and went back again and 
 found then still in the same position. Being tired out, he 
 would wait no longer, and came home. We went in 
 the afternoon to see Ephraim for the purpose of inquir- 
 ing of him how soon our journey to the South river 
 would commence, and whether we would have time first 
 to take a trip to Aquakmon with the man from Bergen, 
 of whom we have spoken above; but we did not find him 
 at home. 
 
 mh, Monday. We went again this morning to speak to 
 him. He said we would have time to go there, and allow- 
 ing the utmost it might take us, he would still wait a 
 day or two. We went immediately to Sapokanikkc, where 
 (Gerrit) was engaged in building, whom we wished to ac- 
 company us, because he knew several of those Indians and 
 spoke their language, and because he had said all aW 
 that he wished to see the laud of his brother-in-law, since 
 Jaques had promised him as much of it as he would culti- 
 vate ; but we found him indisposed with a sore leg, and 
 unable to go. Nevertheless, we crossed over the river in 
 the evening, at the same time the two ministers were 
 returning, namely, Tessemaker who preached there on 
 Sunday as we have stated, and Niewenhuise who had 
 administered the Lord's Supper there to day. We went 
 over with Claes, and it was dark when we arrived at 
 Gmoenepaen. We followed Claes, who took us to his 
 
 » 
 
A JOURNEY ABANDONED. 
 
 161 
 
 house, where we were made welcome by his old mother. 
 My comrade went with Claes, yet this evening, to see the 
 man who was to take us up the Ml, so that in case he 
 had any thing to make ready it might be done this even- 
 ing. He said it would be noon before the tide would 
 serve to-morrow and that he had nothing else to do in the 
 morning. We learned he was a most godless ro£?ue, 
 which caused us to be cautious in what we had to do with 
 him. We conversed this evening with the old woman in 
 whose house we slept, and this poor woman seemed to 
 have great enjoyment and fruition, as did also her sons 
 and others with whom we occasionally conversed. It ap- 
 peared, indeed, as if the Lord might have there the seed 
 of the elect, which he will bring forth in his own time, if it 
 please him. Truly these are the best people whom we 
 have found in these parts. 
 
 Slst, Tuesday. We went this morning to look about the 
 country a little, which pleased us very much, aud thus 
 occupied ourselves until noon, when we proceeded to look 
 after our guide and arrange matters with him. As soon 
 as he came in the house, we inquired of him what he 
 wanted for his trouble for the journey. He demanded a 
 cloth innocent or coat, and that not of the poorest. His wife, 
 who was the worst woman, I think, I have ever beheld in 
 my life, did the best also to cheat us. We asked him 
 what he thought such a coat would cost. "Well," said 
 he, " call it a hundred guilders." We told him we did 
 not intend to give so much. He replied, " I cannot take 
 less for so long a time." "And how long do you expect 
 to be gone," we asked. " You must not, "he said, " think 
 of being back before Monday." We then asked him how 
 much ho demanded a day, and he said eight guilders. 
 We made an agreement with him for seven guilders a 
 day, that is, twenty-eight stuivers, Holland money. We 
 then started to get some provisions, which the old woman, 
 21 
 
102 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 where we slept, had cheerfully given us; hut we took 
 nothing, except two half loaves of rye bread, and some 
 apples in our traveling bag, hut this Dirck provided him- 
 self better for making the journey. When we were ready, 
 we went over the salt meadow or marsh to the kil, which 
 was full an half an hour's distance; but when we came to 
 the canoe, the ebb tide was still running strong, and we 
 required the flood. The canoe lay in a bend of a small 
 creek, and it was impossible to get it out of this bight and 
 over the mire, except at high water, which would not take 
 place until evening. We were, therefore, brought to a 
 stand, whether to proceed in the evening, to which we 
 were not much inclined, or await until the next morning, 
 which was too much of a delay in view of our journey to 
 the south. We had, besides, felt some misgivings in our 
 hearts on account of the godlessness of the person who 
 was to conduct us. We saw that the Lord plainly shewed 
 what we had to do, and we, therefore, abandoned the trip, 
 and told him we had not so much time to lose, and should 
 embrace another opportunity. JIe cursed and swore at 
 those who had told him the tide would serve at noon. In 
 truth he had not been careful and had nobody to blame 
 but himself. We were glad we were rid of him. We 
 gave our apples and bread back to the old woman, who, as 
 well as all the villagers, who heard we were not going up, 
 were rejoiced, and declared we would not have been 
 satisfied. Afterwards, several others offered their services 
 to accompany us by land, either on foot or horseback, or 
 otherwise, and go with us themselves, which we did not 
 reject, but only postponed until we should see what the 
 Lord would do in his time. 
 
 We went immediately to the strand to see whether we 
 could still cross over to the other side ; but Claes had left 
 for the city, and did not return until evening, and there 
 was no other boat. We were, therefore, compelled to 
 
DELAYS IN LEAVING FOR THE SOUTH. 163 
 
 remain ; but, in the meantime, we visited the before 
 mentioned Fytie, where we met several Indians, who lived 
 upon and owned the very land we had intended to visit. 
 They had heard we had gone up to look at their land, and 
 wondered at seeing us back there. They manifested 
 pleasure at our wishing to visit them, and examine their 
 land ; shook hands with us, and said we were great 
 and good nitaps. They were in hopes we would come 
 and live on their lands, where we would always be good 
 nitaps. Meanwhile Claes having arrived, we went back 
 with him to Bergen, and passed the night again at hie 
 house. 
 
 November 1st, Wednesday. As soon as Claes had taken 
 his freight on board, we crossed over with him to the city. 
 Our old people where we lodged were glad we had not 
 gone with that person, for they also knew him well. About 
 noon Claes came to the house, wishing to buy something 
 of us, which he did. We presented him and the good 
 people of this place with The Christian Principles, 1 in Low 
 Dutch, because we hoped, after what we had seen, it 
 would serve for their instruction and edification, and the 
 glory of God, who will bring forth the fruits thereof in 
 his own time if it please him. 
 
 2d, Thursday. This day, and for the rest of the week, 
 nothing transpired worthy of note, except we informed 
 Ephraim that our trip was not to take place, and therefore 
 he need not wait on our account. I have wished several 
 times that I could sketch in order to employ the art some- 
 times when it might be serviceable, especially upon this 
 voyage. I, therefore, have practised it some, because it was 
 convenient, and I thought I succeeded in it reasonably 
 well, but I have clone it, without any regularity or assi- 
 duity, and only to amuse myself occasionally. 
 
 1 A publication of the Labatlists. 
 
1G4 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 Wl, Sunday. My comrade, who was exercising himself in 
 the English language, went again to hear the English 
 minister preach. 
 
 6th, Mbndpy. We went again to ascertain whether our 
 journeyjto the South river would soon he undertaken ; for 
 although this opportunity would suit us very well and we 
 should not miss it, nevertheless the best time waa passing 
 by, and the winter was close at hand. There was a horse 
 ottered us elsewhere, which had to be taken to the South 
 river; and a yacht also was ready to sail there. The time, 
 therefore, was to be looked to; and we went again to' ' 
 Ephraim, who assured us that he would not delay it longer 
 than the ensuing Thursday. But we heard that Domine 
 Tdmnaker was going with him, by which we were entrap- 
 ped, for it waa one of the reasons why we did not leave 
 with La Grange, who had now been gone fourteen days, 
 that he always told us Domine Tessemaker and some 
 other persons would accompany him. However, as the 
 Lord had thus ordered it,' we were glad to submit to his 
 will, who always knows why he does thus and so. 
 
 Nothing worth mention happened between this and 
 Thursday. Meanwhile, however, Domine Tessemaker 
 had abandoned the journey with Ephraim, and resolved 
 to proceed by sea in the yacht or boat, in which he sailed 
 the next day. Whether he had some special reasons for 
 going by water we do not know, although we guessed so. 
 Ephraim had ordered a shallop or yacht, which was to 
 land us at the Raritam, and was to be ready, he said, 
 Thursday evening or Friday morning without fail, but of 
 that he would give us timely notice. We, therefore, re- 
 mained at home until Friday morning, the 
 
 when, as we did not see him, we went to ascertain 
 the cause and why the journey was not begun. He said 
 it was not his fault, but that his mother-in-law could not 
 leave so soon, and he had given her time until next Mon- 
 
LAWS OF THE PROVINCE IN DUTCH. 
 
 165 
 
 day, and had, therefore, let the sloop make a trip. This 
 did not please us very much, for our time was fast running 
 away, and we were ahle to accomplish nothing. We be- 
 thought ourselves, therefore, whether we could not make 
 some progress, and as our Jaques (Cortelyou), had 
 promised to show us the laws of the country, we deter- 
 mined to sro and see whether we could not abstract from 
 them what we had to do therein before our departure. 
 We both left about noon to go over to Long IslaDd, and 
 passed through Breukelm and Vlacke Bos, over Nieu 
 Uyirecht on a large, fine wagon road to Najack, where we 
 arrived about three o'clock. It had been very warm 
 during tbe day, and we were all in a perspiration and 
 fatigued. Jaques's wife bade us welcome, but he himself 
 was in the fields. After we had rested ourselves and 
 eaten something, we went outside upon the banks of this 
 beautiful bay, to breathe a little air, and look at several 
 vessels, going and coming. In the meantime he came 
 with his son to meet us. They had been to the Ushfuyck, 
 which they had lying there upon the shore and out of 
 which they had taken at noon some fine fish, but at present 
 the water was too high. Another of his sons had been 
 out shooting, but had not shot anything ; though the day 
 before he had shot a woodcock and a partridge before the 
 door of the house, which we must taste this evening with 
 some other things. While we were standing there, the 
 fuyck was lifted again, from which they took out two fine 
 bass, of a kind we had not yet seen. They are quite large, 
 and of a good shape. They have seven black stripes on 
 the body, extending from the head to the tail. We eat of 
 them also in the evening, and found them very fine, and 
 had not yet tasted any better in the country. They were 
 fat and hard, with a little of the flavor of the salmon. 
 The game suited us very well. 
 
 We had much conversation together, and informed our- 
 selves in relation to various matters. He gave us some 
 
100 
 
 NEW YORK AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 medicinal roots. He also let us look at the laws, which 
 were written in a folio volume, hut in very bad Dutch, for 
 they had been translated from Pmglish into Dutch. As 
 it was a large hook, and we saw we could not copy it 
 there, we requested him to let us take it home with us for 
 that purpose. He consented upon condition that if we 
 left for the south, we would then deliver it to his brother- 
 in-law, Gerrit, who intended to come over shortly, and 
 would hand it to him. We lodged this night somewhat 
 better than we had done before in the barn, for we slept 
 in his dwelling, and could feel where we had slept. 
 
 11///, Saturday. As soon as we awoke we determined to 
 return home and finish up some matters in the little time 
 remaining. We left, therefore, about eight o'clock, after 
 taking some breakfast. He conducted us to New Utrecht. 
 We lent him Lcs Pcnsks de Pascal which we judged would 
 be useful to him. We returned by the same roads as we 
 came, and reached home about eleven o'clock. We had 
 observed that although the previous day had been pretty 
 warm, the night had not only been frosty but ice had 
 formed as thick as the back of a knife. We commenced 
 at noon copying the most necessary laws, and afterwards 
 the rest of them. 
 
 12th, Sunday. We continued making extracts, and 
 finished about the middle of the day all that we deemed it 
 necessary to make, omitting minor matters pertaining to 
 the duties of particular officers. What we copied were the 
 laws and nothing else. 
 
 lBth, Mond/oj. We took care that Jaques should receive 
 the papers back again, and then went to see whether our 
 journey with Ephraim would be made. We found the 
 boat lying at the dock, laden with fire-wood, and that the 
 day would necessarily be occupied in discharging, so that 
 at the best, it could not be undertaken before the next 
 day. The time was finally fixed for the journey for the 
 next day, and every thing was this day arranged. 
 
JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 14^, Tuesday. Having taken leave of all our acquaint- 
 ances, we set off at ten o'clock, this morning, in company 
 with Ephraim, his wife, his wife's mother, two of her 
 sisters, and a young brother, who where to accompany her 
 as far as Pescatteway. We stepped into the boat, where 
 we found three horses, two quakers and another Englishman. 
 We were not long; in starting. The wind was from the 
 west, which is a head wind for sailing to Achter Kol. 
 The sky began to be heavily overcast, and the wind to 
 freshen up more, so that we had to tack. Ephraim being 
 afraid the wind might shift to the northwest, and blow 
 hard, as it usually does when it is from that quarter, 
 wished to return, and would have done so, if the skipper 
 had not tried to go ahead more than he did. The tide 
 running out, and the boat advancing but little, and being 
 fearful of the flood tide, which would delay us, if it did 
 not drive us back, and as there was room to work with the 
 rudder, I went and took hold of the tiller myself, and 
 brought the boat, with the flood tide, just within the point 
 of Staten island, where we found a ketch bound for Achter 
 Kol, and further up to the Slangenbergh. Having now the 
 tide with us, we tacked about, and quickly passed by the 
 Schuttefs island, lying in the mouth of a kil, on the north 
 side of the Kil achter Kol. This island is so called, because 
 the Dutch, when they first settled on the North river, 
 
1G8 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 were in the practice of coming here to shoot wild geese, 
 and other wild fowl, which resorted there in great numbers. 
 This kil, 1 when the water is high, is like a large river, 
 but at low water, it is dry in some places. Up above it 
 divides itself into two branches, one of which runs about 
 north to the SkngenbergK and Ackingsak; and the other 
 called the Northwest kil, because it extends in that 
 direction, runs to Ayuakenom, of which we will speak 
 hereafter. We sailed inside of Schuiiefs island, although 
 the passage is very small, and thus obtained the in-running 
 current; because, the flood tide which came from Ackter 
 Ko/, 2 and that from the North river, strike each other 
 here, and thus shoot together in this kil. With much effort 
 we reached the point of Elizabeth's kil, where we were 
 compelled to come to anchor, at four o'clock. We all 
 went ashore, and lodged for the night in the house of the 
 French people, of whom we have spoken before, and who 
 were not yet rid of the suspicion they had conceived, not- 
 withstanding the declarations we had made to the contrary. 
 We all slept on the floor, and supped upon what we had 
 brought with us. We were no sooner in the house, than it 
 began to rain and blow hard from the northwest, and to 
 be very cold. We saw herein the good providence of the 
 Lord again, whom we had so many times, during our 
 journeying, so visibly perceived, watching and protecting 
 so faithfully those who cared for nothing, except for him 
 and to do his will. 
 
 loth, Wednesday. It still blew stiff out of the northwest, so 
 that our skipper had little disposition to weigh anchor and 
 get under sail, especially with the horses on board, although 
 we would have willingly proceeded. It was, therefore, 
 determined that the horses should go by land with the 
 
 1 Ell achter Kol, Staten island sound. 
 * Newark bay. 
 
WOODBRIDGE. PISCATAWAY. 
 
 169 
 
 servant and brother of Ephraim, and the quakers resolved 
 to do the same. The rest of the company went on hoard 
 the boat, and after taking in a large reef, we got under 
 sail, with a head wind, but ebb tide. It blew hard and 
 squally, and we had to look out well, with sheets in hand. 
 We made good progress, and came to Smokers Hoeck, 
 which is about half way of Kil achkr Kol. We came to 
 anchor here, because the next reach was directly against 
 the wind, and it blew too hard to tack. We all stepped 
 ashore here, and went on foot to an English village called 
 Woodbridge, where we should find the horses. Smoker's 
 Hook is the easterly point of the kil, which runs up to 
 Woodbridge, and we would have sailed up this creek, but 
 it was ebb tide. We passed over reasonably fair and good 
 land, and observed particularly fine salt meadows on the 
 creek, on which there was built a good grist mill, and over 
 which we had to cross. We arrived about noon or one 
 o'clock, at this English village. Ephraim, not wishing to 
 go with his family to the ordinary tavern, went to another 
 house or tavern, where he had been many times before, 
 and where the people were under some obligations to him. 
 But he could not lodge there now ; and we were, therefore, 
 compelled to go to the common tavern, which was full of 
 persons, sitting drinking, and where nothing was to be 
 obtained except that vile rum. Nevertheless, we had to 
 pass the day there, waiting for the boat and the baggage ; 
 but these did not come up to-day, in consequence of the 
 hard wind. We had, therefore, to lie down here upon the 
 ground all together, on a little hay, as we had done last 
 night. 
 
 16th, 'Thursday. The weather moderated and it cleared 
 up, but we had to wait till about noon, before the goods 
 arrived from the boat, which the skipper had to bring up 
 in a canoe, because the boat could not come. We obtained 
 here another horse, making five horses we had, and 
 22 
 
170 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 another servant of Ephraim. We then dined, and politely 
 took our leave of Madam Van Burgh, the mother of 
 Ephraim's wife, and of her two sisters, who had come to 
 conduct her as far as here, and from here were to return 
 home again in the same boat, hut the little brother went 
 with us to the south, to live with Ephraim. It was then 
 about three o'clock, when we mounted the horses, namely, 
 Ephraim and his wife upon the best one, my comrade and 
 myself each upon the one we had obtained at Wood- 
 bridge, his brother and servant on one, and the other 
 servant upon another. Our horses, like the riders, were 
 very poor. We proceeded on, however, and about four 
 o'clock arrived at Pescatieway, the last English village in 
 New Jersey, for thus the government of my Lord Carteret 
 is called ; which begins on the west side of the North 
 river, and extends about half way to the South river, 
 though this division did not seem to me to be well made. 
 We rode about two English miles through Pescatteway, 
 to the house of one Mr. Greenland, 1 who kept an ordinary 
 (tavern) there. We had to pass the night here, because 
 it was the place of crossing the Millstone river, which 
 they called the falls. Close by there, also, was the dwel- 
 ling of some Indians, who were of service to this Mr. 
 Greenland, in many things. We were better lodged and 
 entertained here, for we slept upon a good bed, and 
 strengthened ourselves against the future. 
 
 17//', Friday. As the water was high in the kil or 
 Millstone river, Ephraim would not ride over the fall, on 
 account of the current of water, which made it dangerous. 
 He, therefore, determined after breakfast we should be set 
 across in a canoe, and the horses should swim across, as 
 they did. We reached the other side about nine o'clock, 
 and proceeded on horseback. The road from here to the 
 
 1 See Whitehead's Early History of Perth Amboy, &c, 402. 
 
ROCKY HILL. FALLS OF THE DELAWARE. 
 
 171 
 
 falls of the South river, runs for the most part W. S. W., 
 and then W. It is nothing but a foot-path for men and 
 horses, between the trees and through the small shrubs, 
 although we came to places where there were large plains, 
 beset with a few trees, and grown over with long grass, 
 which was not the worst. When you have ridden a piece 
 of the way, you can see over the lands of the Nevesink, 
 far oft - on the left hand, into the ocean, affording a fine 
 view. 1 The land we rode over was neither the best, nor 
 the worst. The woods consist of reasonably straight oak 
 and hickory, with some chestnut, but they are not very 
 close. They would, therefore, afford tolerably good tillable 
 land ; but we observed the best pieces lay here and there, 
 along the creeks. We saw many deer running before us, 
 out of the road, sometimes five or six together, starting 
 off at the sound of the horses. When about half way, you 
 come to a high, but very rocky hill, which is very difficult 
 for man or beast to walk upon. After crossing it, you 
 come to a large valley, the descent to which, from this hill, 
 is very steep, by a very shrubby road; and you must 
 dismount, in order to lead your horses down carefully, as 
 well as to descend carefully yourselves. We were in the 
 middle of this valley, when a company met us on horse- 
 back, from the South river. They were acquaintances of 
 Ephraim, and some of them were his relations. They 
 wished each other welcome, and mutually inquired after 
 various matters, after which we separated, exchanging one 
 of our horses, which Ephraim's brother rode, and was to 
 be sent back to the Manathans, for one of theirs, which 
 must return to the South river. We rode on a little 
 further, and came to Millstone river again, which runs so 
 crookedly, that you cross it at three different places. After 
 
 1 The highlands of Nevesink are 281 feet ahove the level of the sea, at 
 their highest point. 
 
172 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 we crossed it now, we took the bridles from the horses, in 
 order that they might eat something, while we sat down and 
 dined together, upon what we had in our traveling hags. 
 We remounted in about an hour, and rode on, continuing 
 our way and course as before. About three o'clock we 
 came again to Millstone river, which we again waded 
 over, but it had gradually become smaller. Resuming 
 our route, we arrived at the falls of the South river about 
 sundown, passing a creek where a new grist-mill was 
 erected by the quakers, who live hereabouts in great 
 numbers, and daily increase. But it seemed to us as if 
 this mill could not stand long, especially if the flow of 
 water were heavy, because the work was not well arranged. 
 We rode over here, and went directly to the house of the 
 person who had constructed it, who was a quaker, where 
 we dismounted, and willingly dismissed our horses. The 
 house was very small, and from the incivility of the 
 immates and the unfitness of the place, we expected poor 
 lodgings. As it was still daylight, and we had heard so 
 much of the fells of the South river, or, at least, we 
 ourselves had imagined it, that we went back to the river, 
 in order to look at them; but we discovered we had 
 deceived ourselves in our ideas. We had supposed it was 
 a place, where the water came tumbling down in great 
 quantity and force from a great height above, over a rock 
 into an abyss, as the word falls would seem to imply, and 
 as we had heard and read of the falls of the North river, 
 and other rivers. But these falls of the South river are 
 nothing more than a place of about two English miles in 
 length, or not so much, where the river is full of stones, 
 almost across it, which are not very large, but in conse- 
 quence of the shallowness, the water, runs rapidly and 
 breaks against them, causing some noise, but not very 
 much, which place, if it were necessary, could be made 
 navigable on one side. As no Europeans live above the 
 
SHINGLED HOUSES. BURLINGTON. 
 
 173 
 
 falls, they may so remain. This milTer's house is the 
 highest up the river, hitherto inhabited. Here we had to 
 lodge ; and although we were too tired to eat, we had to 
 remain sitting upright the whole night, not being able to 
 find room enough to lie upon the ground. "We had a fire, 
 however, but the dwellings are so wretchedly constructed, 
 that if you are not so close to the fire as almost to burn 
 yourself, you cannot keep warm, for the wind blows 
 through them everywhere. Most of the English, and 
 many others, have their houses made of nothing but 
 clapboards, as they call them there, in this manner: they 
 first make a wooden frame, the same as they do in West- 
 phalia, and at Altona, but not so strong ; they then split 
 the boards of clapwood, so that they are like cooper's 
 pipe staves, except they are not bent. These are made very 
 thin, with a large knife, so that the thickest end is about 
 a -pinch (little finger) thick, and the other is made sharp, 
 like the edge of a knife. They are about five or six feet 
 long, and are nailed on the outside of the frame, with the 
 ends lapped over each other. They are not usually laid so 
 close together, as to prevent you from sticking a finger 
 between them, in consequence either of their not being 
 well joined, or the boards being crooked. When it is cold 
 and windy the best people plaster them with clay. Such 
 are most all the English houses in the country, except 
 those they have which were built by people of other 
 nations. JSTow this house was new and airy; and as the 
 night was very windy from the north, and extremely cold 
 with clear moonshine, I will not readily forget it. Ephraim 
 and his wife obtained a bed ; hut we passed through the 
 night without sleeping much. 
 
 18^A, Saturday. About ten o'clock, after we had break- 
 fasted, we stepped into a boat, in order to proceed on our 
 journey down the river. The ebb tide was half run out. 
 Although there is not much flood tide here, as it is stopped 
 
174 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 by the falls, yet, the water rises and falls with the ebb or 
 flood, or, through the ebb or flood, because, the water, 
 although it runs down, increases through the flood, in 
 consequence of its being forced up, and is diminished with the 
 cbh, because the ebb gives it so much the more course to run 
 down. "We went along, then, moving with the tide ; hut 
 as Ephraim was suffering with the quartan ague, and it was 
 now its time to come on, we had to go and lie by the banks 
 of the river, in order to make a fire, as he could not 
 endure the cold in the boat. This continued for about an 
 hour and a half. The water was then rising, and we had to 
 row against the current to Burliwjtvn, leaving the island of 
 Mathuikonh? lying on the right hand. This island, formerly, 
 belonged to the Dutch governor, who had made it a 
 pleasure ground or garden, built good houses upon it, and 
 sowed and planted it. He also dyked and cultivated a 
 large piece of meadow or marsh, from which he gathered 
 more grain than from any land which had been made from 
 woodland into tillable land. The English governor at the 
 Manathans, now held it for himself, and had hired it out to 
 some quakers, who were living upon it at present. It is 
 the best and largest island in the South river; and is about 
 four English miles in length, and two in breadth. It lies 
 nearest to the east side of the river. At the end of this 
 island lies the quakers' village, Burlington, which east side 
 of the river the quakers have entirely in their possession, 
 but how they came into its possession, we will show in 
 another place. Before arriving at this village, we stopped 
 at the house of one Jacob Hendricks, from Holstein, living 
 on this side. He was an acquaintance of Ephraim, who 
 would have gone there to lodge, but he was not at home. 
 We, therefore, rowed on to the village, in search of 
 lodgings, for it had been dark all of an hour or more; but 
 
 1 Burlington island, formerly also called Cbygoe's island. It contains 
 about 300 acres of land. 
 
LOG HOUSES. QUAKER LEARNING. 175 
 
 proceeding a little further, we met this Jacoh Hendricks, in 
 a canoe with hay. As we were now at the village, we 
 went up to the ordinary tavern, but there were no lodgings 
 to be obtained there, whereupon we reembarked in the 
 boat, and rowed back to Jacob Hendricks', who received 
 us very kindly, and entertained us according to his ability. 
 The house, although not much larger than where we were 
 the last night, was somewhat better and tighter, being 
 made according to the Swedish mode, and as they usually 
 build their houses here, which are block-houses, being 
 nothing else than entire trees, split through the middle, or 
 squared out of the rough, and placed in the form of a 
 square, upon each other, as high as they wish to have the 
 house; the ends of these timbers are let into each other, 
 about a foot from the ends, half of one into half of the 
 other. The whole structure is thus made, without a nail 
 or a spike. The ceiling and roof do not exhibit much 
 finer work, except among the most careful people, who 
 have the ceiling planked and a glass window. The doors 
 are wide enough, but very low, so that you have to stoop 
 in entering. These houses are quite tight and warm ; 
 but the chimney is placed in a corner. My comrade and 
 myself had some deer skins, spread upon the floor to lie 
 on, and we were, therefore, quite well off, and could get 
 some rest. It rained hard during the night, and snowed 
 and froze, and continued so until the 
 
 19th, Sunday, and for a considerable part of the day, 
 affording little prospect of our leaving. At noon the 
 weather improved, and Ephraim having something to do 
 at Burlington, we accompanied him there in the boat. 
 "We went into the meeting of the quakers, who went to 
 work very unceremoniously and loosely. What they 
 uttered was mostly in one tone, and the same thing, and 
 so it continued, until we were tired out, and went away. 
 We tasted here, for the first time, peach brandy, or spirits, 
 
176 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 which was very good, hut would have heen better if it had 
 been more carefully made. Ephraim remained there for 
 the evening, and we returned back to our former lodgings, 
 where we slept on a good bed, the same that Epraim and 
 his wife had the night before. This gave us great comfort, 
 and recruited us greatly. 
 
 20///, Monday. We went again to the village this morning, 
 and entered the ordinary exhorters' house, where we 
 breakfasted with quakers, but the most wordly of men in 
 all their deportment and conversation. We found lying 
 upon the window a volume of Virgil, as if it were a common 
 hand-book, and also Helmont's book on Medicine 1 , whom, 
 in an introduction, which they have made to it, they make 
 pass for one of their sect, although in his life time he did 
 not know any thing about quakers; and if they had been 
 in the world, or should have come into it, while he lived, 
 he would quickly have said, no, to them; but it seems 
 these people will make all those who have had any genius, 
 in any respect, more than common, pass for theirs; which 
 is certainly great pride, wishing to place themselves far 
 above all others ; whereas, the most of them, whom I have 
 seen as yet, are miserably self-minded, in physical and 
 religious knowledge. It was almost noon before we left. 
 The boat in which we had come as far as there with its 
 owner, who intended to return in it, was exchanged for 
 
 1 Jean Baptiste van Ilelmont, born in Brussels, in 1577; died in Holland 
 in 1G44. He was a distinguished alchemist and physician, and after studying 
 different systems of medicine, old and new, came to the conclusion that 
 wisdom in that science and in others, was to be acquired by prayer. He 
 was the first person to designate the elastic fluids, other than air, by the 
 term gas. The results of his treatment of patients committed to his charge, 
 may not be peculiarity his own ; but it is acknowledged by his biographer, 
 that the sick never languished in his hands, being always killed or cured 
 in three days. The work of his, on medicine, referred to in our text, was 
 probably his, Ortus Medecina, id est, initio physka iimudita, progressus 
 medkiiwz. ?u>vus in morborum ultionem ad vitam longam. Amsterdam, 1615. 
 
TACONY. TINICUM ISLAND. 
 
 177 
 
 another, belonging to Upland, of which a quaker was 
 master, who was going down with several others of the 
 same class ; hut as it was half ebb tide, and the shallop 
 was lying far up in the mud, no one of these zealous 
 people was willing to bring her through it, into the 
 water. Ephraim, in order to get started, and to shame 
 them, did not hesitate long, and followed by his servant 
 and both of us, very soon had the boat afloat in the water. 
 Pursuing our journey, we arrived about two o'clock at the 
 house of another quaker, on the west side of the river, 
 where we stopped to eat our dinner and dry ourselves. We 
 left there in an hour, rowing our best against the flood tide, 
 until, at dark, we came to Takanij, a village of Swedes and 
 Fins, situated on the west side of the river. Ephraim 
 being acquainted, and having business here, we were all 
 well received, and slept upon a parcel of deer skins. 
 We drank very good beer here, brewed by the Swedes, 
 who, although they have come to America, have not 
 left behind them their old customs. 
 
 21st, Tuesday. The tide falling, we set out with the day, 
 and rowed during the whole ebb and part of the flood, 
 until two or three o'clock, when we arrived at the island 
 of Tynakonk (Tinicum), the fifth we had passed. Mantina- 
 konk and this Tinakonk, are the principal islands, and the best 
 and the largest. The others are of little importance, and 
 some of them, whose names we do not know, are all 
 meadow and marsh, others are only small bushes. The 
 pleasantest thing about them is, they afford an agreeable 
 view and a variety to the traveler, and a little divertissement 
 to those who go up and down the river: also some 
 conveniences for fishing in the river, and other accommo- 
 dations for the planters. 
 
 This Tinakonk, is the island of which M. Arnout de' la 
 Grange had said so much ; but we were much disappointed 
 in comparing it with what he had represented, and what 
 23 
 
178 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 M. la Motto has written about it. The first mistake is in 
 the name, which is not Mutlnnhonh — the name probably of 
 the island of which we have spoken before, but Timkcmk. 
 It lies on the west side of the river, and is separated from 
 the west shore, not as he said, by a wide running branch 
 of the river, as wide as the Eemster, near Amsterdam, but 
 by a small creek, as wide as a large ditch, running through 
 a meadow. It is long and covered with bushes, and inside 
 somewhat marshy. It is about two miles long, or a little 
 more, and a mile and a half wide. Although there are not 
 less miles than he said, he did not say they were English 
 miles, which are only one-fourth the length of Dutch 
 miles, of fifteen to a degree. The southwest point, which 
 only has been and is still cultivated, is barren, scraggy and 
 sandy, growing plenty of wild onions, a weed not easily 
 eradicated. On this point three or four houses are standing, 
 built by the Swedes, a little Lutheran church made of logs, 
 and the remains of the large block-house, which served 
 them in place of a fortress, with the ruins of some log 
 huts. This is the whole of the manor. The best and 
 pleasantest quality it has, is the prospect, which is very 
 agreeable, and one of the principal things for which Mons. 
 la Motto recommends it, namely, belle, videre. I have made 
 a sketch of it, according to my ability. But as to there 
 being a mine of iron ore upon it, I have not seen any upon 
 that island, or elsewhere ; and if it were so, it is of no great 
 importance, for such mines are so common in this countiy, 
 that little account is made of them. Although Ephraim 
 had told us every thing in regard to the condition of the 
 land, as well as the claim which Mons. de la Grange makes 
 to it, yet we ourselves have observed the former, and 
 have ascertained the latter, from a person who now resides 
 there, which is as follows : "When the Swedish colony was 
 flourishing under its own government, this island belonged 
 a lord Papegay (Papegoia), the Swedish governor, who 
 
FORT NEW GUTTENBURGH. A LAWSUIT. 179 
 
 lived upon it, and cultivated it, the church and the fort, 
 still existing there as monuments to prove the fact. 
 Although the Swedes have had fortresses, from time to 
 time, in several other places, at this time, this was called 
 New Gottenburgh. This governor died, leaving a widow ; 
 and she, Madam Papegay, sold the island, which was then 
 very flourishing, to the father of de la Grange, for six 
 thousand guilders, in the money of Holland, though the 
 person who now lives upon it says it was seven thousand 
 guilders, to he paid in several installments, here in New 
 Netherland. Some of the first payments were duly made 
 by de la Grange, hut the last two, I think, he was not so 
 ready to make, as he had to procure the money from 
 Holland, and that, I know not why, did not come. There- 
 upon Mons. de la Grange, determined to go to Holland, 
 himself, and bring the money with him ; but he died on 
 the voyage, and the payments were not made. It remained 
 so for a long time, and, at length, the widow Papegay, 
 cited the widow de la Grange, before the court, claiming 
 as her right, payment in full, or restitution of the land, as 
 de la Grange had been in possession of the land for some 
 years, and had enjoyed the profits, and the time for the last 
 payment had also expired some years before. In the mean 
 time comes one Mons. la Motte, who it seems was to 
 assist Madam de la Grange, either by discharging the debt, 
 or by defending the suit, and in order the better to do so, 
 he buys the island from the widow de la Grange, seeking 
 her also in marriage. But as Madam Papegay persevered, 
 and the affair of Mons. la Motte, and the widow de la 
 Grange, came to nothing, and on the other hand the 
 widow de la Grange could not deliver the land to M. la 
 Motte, and la Motte could not pay. The widow de la 
 Grange was, therefore, condemned to restore the island to 
 Madam Papegay, and pay her costs, and also to pay the 
 income which she had received from the island, for the 
 
180 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 time hIic had lived upon it, and for the buildings which 
 she had allowed to go to waste. Madam de la Grange, 
 conceiving this decree to be unjust, appealed to the high 
 court — the country having in the mean time been taken 
 by the English — and was again condemned, and therefore, 
 had to deliver up the land. Now, in this last war with 
 Sweden, Madam Papegay, who has two brothers in Sweden, 
 in the service of the crown, was sent for by them to come 
 home, whereupon, she sold the island to Mr. OttoKvif 1 * 
 Ilolsteiner, who now lives upon it, for fifteen hundred guild- 
 ers in zccwant, as it was very much decayed and worn out. 
 Thia is three hundred guilders in the money of Holland. 
 Hereupon, Madam I'apegay delivered full possession 
 thereof, to this Otto. Now, M. Arnout de la Grange, as 
 heir of his father, when he was here last year, laid claim to 
 the island from Mr. Otto, who told him he did not know 
 him in the matter, and if M. de la Grange had any lawful 
 claim, he must not apply to him, but to the court, as his 
 possession was under its judgment; but if M. de la Grange 
 wished to buy it from him, he would let him have it for 
 three hundred pounds sterling, or as they might agree. 
 Whereupon, de la Grange flewinto a passion, and threatened 
 to appeal to London. " That you can do," said Otto, 
 " if you have money enough. All this affects me not, 
 since I have bought and paid for it, and have been put in 
 possession of it by order of the court." De la Grange has 
 not proposed to purchase the island again of Mr. Otto, 
 although he could do it very favorably, notwithstanding 
 Mr. Otto asked so much for it. Ephraim told me that Mr. 
 Otto had said to him, confidentially, that in case he could 
 obtain for it what it had cost him, he would let it go, as he 
 had other land lying elsewhere, and that he had asked so 
 much for it, merely to hear what he (de la Grange) would 
 
 ^tto Ernest Koch or Kock. Hewasoneof thejustices on the Delaware. 
 
A FAMOUS QUAKERESS. 
 
 181 
 
 say, and in order to scare him. Should you lay out three 
 hundred guilders in Holland for merchandise, and sell it 
 here, which usually yields an hundred per cent profit, or is 
 so reckoned in barter, you could have this island almost 
 for nothing, or at least for very little. But there is better 
 land to be bought cheaper. De la Grange has let this slip 
 by, and it seems as if he had not much inclination to stir 
 the subject any more. He has given me to understand 
 that he disregards it, or at least regards it as little now, as 
 he formerly prized and valued it ; as indeed be shows, for 
 he has now bought land on Christina creek, consisting of 
 two or three old plantations, which, perhaps, are not much 
 better than this island, and cost him enough. He has 
 obtained another piece from the governor, lying between 
 Burlington and the falls, on the west side, but will not 
 accomplish much with it. I forgot to mention that de la 
 Grange, four years ago when he was in Holland, gave one 
 Mr. Peter Aldrix, who now resides on the South river, 
 and is one of the members of the court, authority to make 
 this man, Otto, deliver the island to him, which Aldrix 
 refused, and advised him that he was well assured he could 
 not accomplish any thing with it. Yet to satisfy la Grange 
 he laid the matter before Mr. Otto, who gave him the same 
 answer he had given la Grange. As I understand and 
 have heard, la Grange bases his claim under the English 
 law, that the son is- the heir of the father's possessions ; but 
 the possession of the father being disputed, and he himself 
 disinherited by two courts, the claim is null and of no value. 1 
 
 1 The accuracy of this long statement in regard to Tinicum, its settlement 
 and fortification by the Swedes, and the dispute as to the title, is not less 
 remarkable than its minuteness. Much of the detail given here is new, 
 but many of the leading points are corroborated by the records of the 
 country, and by judicious writers, early and late, and entire confidence is 
 established, therefore, in the whole account. The reader may consult 
 
182 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 When we arrived at this island, we were welcomed hy 
 Mr. Otto, late medicus, and entertained at his house accord- 
 ing to his condition, although he lives poorly enough. In 
 the evening there also arrived three quakers, of whom one 
 was their greatest prophetess, who travels through the 
 whole country in order to quake. Hhe live? in Maryland, 
 and forsakes husband and children, plantation and all, and 
 goes oft' for this purpose. She had been to Boston, and 
 Avas there arrested by the authorities on account of her 
 quakery. This worthy personage came here in the house 
 where we were, although Ephraim avoided her. They sat 
 
 Campanius by Du Ponceau, 79; Aerelius, 35-6; Clay's Annals, 23-5; 
 Fcrri*'* Original Stttkment on the Delaware, 61 ; Record of Upland Court, 
 152-3; Dr. Smith's Hist, of Delaware Co., Pa., 58, 97, 110, 123, 145, 519; 
 and Hazard'* Annul* of Pa., 400-1. Two last named writers give us 
 sonic minutes of the trial in the suit of Madam Papegay, against .Madam 
 de la Grange, then the wife of Andrew Carr, which took place in New 
 York, in October, 1672, and lasted three days. We also learn from the 
 same authorities that the controversy in relation to Tinicum, did not end 
 there, as our journalist supposed it would. Three or four years after he 
 wrote the above account, a suit was brought by M. Arnout or Arnoldus 
 de la Grange, against Mr. Otto Ernest Cock, for the possession of the 
 island, the plaintiff claiming as heir-at-law of his father, and setting forth 
 that at the time of the former trial he was under age, and in Holland, and, 
 therefore, could make no defense ; and that he was not a party to the 
 action which was commenced against Andrew Carr and Priscilla, his 
 wife mistaken in the execution for the plaintiffs mother, whose name was 
 Margaretta. The parties entered into an agreement, however, pending the 
 trial, in accordance with which the jury rendered their verdict in favor of 
 M. de la Grange, with costs and forty shillings damages, " the plaintiff 
 paying to the defendant thirty-seven pounds and ten shillings, and also 
 delivering the block-house and timbers in the same agreement mentioned." 
 The last trial took place before the court at Chester, under the jurisdiction 
 of William Pcnn, who had in the meantime obtained the grant of 
 Pennsylvania. Madam Papegay was the daughter of Governor Printz, 
 the second governor of the Swedish settlements, on the Delaware, who 
 returned to Sweden in 1653, leaving his son-in-law John Papegay or 
 Papegoia in charge of the place, who was superseded on the arrival of 
 Governor Rising, in May, 1654. 
 
CHESTER. A DISPUTE. 
 
 183 
 
 by the fire, and drank a dram of rum with each other, and 
 in a short time, afterwards began to shake and groan so, 
 that we did not know what had happened, and supposed 
 they were going to preach, but nothing came out of it. I 
 could not endure them, and went out of doors. They left 
 for Upland, which is three or four miles from there on the 
 same side of the river, in the same boat in which we came. 
 
 22c?, Wednesday. It was rainy all this day, which gave us 
 sufficient time to explore the island. "We had some good 
 cider which he had made out of the fruit from the remains 
 of an old orchard planted by the Swedish governor. The 
 persons of whom we have before spoken, having left for 
 Upland, Ephraim did not wish to go there because he 
 thought they would preach ; and it being rainy, and no fit 
 boat at hand, we remained here the whole day. We saw 
 an ox as large as they have in Friesland or Denmark, and 
 also quite fat — a species of which we have observed more 
 among the Swedes, and which thrive well. It clearing up 
 towards evening, we took a canoe and came after dark to 
 Upland. This is a small village of Swedes, although it is 
 now overrun by English. We went to the house of the 
 quaker who had brought us down, and carried the other 
 persons from Tinakonk. His name was Robert William- 
 son or Weert. 1 We found here the prophetess or apostle-ess, 
 with her company. Among others, there were two 
 widows, who were at variance, and whom the prophetess 
 with all her authority and spiritual power could not recon- 
 cile, or had not endeavored to do so. They would have 
 
 1 Robert Wade is the person meant. He came over to this country in 
 1G75, in company, it would seem, with John Fenwick, the early proprietor 
 and settler in West Jersey, but leaving his company, settled at Upland (now 
 Chester), in the same year, upon land of Madam Papegay, called Printz- 
 dorp. His house was the one used for the meetings of the quakers. 
 Smith's History of Delaware County, 103, 134, 549. Record of Upland 
 Court, 79. 
 
184 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DEL AW ARK. 
 
 been compelled to have gone before the court, unless 
 Ephraim had striven his best to make them adjust the 
 matter, and brought them to a settlement. One of these 
 widows, named Anna Sailers, lived at Takany, and was one 
 of those who, when a certain person gave himself out as 
 the Lord Jesus, and allowed himself to be carried around 
 on an ass, shouted ITosanna as he rode over their garments, 
 for which conduct he was arrested, his tongue bored through 
 with a red-hot iron, and his forehead branded with a B, 
 for blasphemer. She was not only one of those, but she 
 annointed his head and feet, and wiped them with her hair. 
 The other widow, named Elizabeth, was also one of the 
 principal persons. She lived a little lower down than 
 Takoncy, on the same side of the river. The state of the 
 difference between them was this. They had agreed 
 between themselves to exchange or barter their planta- 
 tions, and each made a writing and each kept her own. 
 Anna Salters afterwards repented her bargain, and went to 
 Elizabeth, and desired that each should take back the 
 writing subscribed by her ; but it so happened that Anna 
 Salters went away, having given up hers, and the other 
 not being then to be found. She had given hers to Eliza- 
 beth, supposing she would afterwards obtain the other; but 
 when she went again to demand it, Etizabeth said the 
 paper had become wet, and in her attempting to dry it, was 
 burnt up. It was believed that Elizabeth had the two 
 writings in her possession, and consequently both planta- 
 tions, which, they said, she wanted to sell privately. 
 "Whereupon Anna called upon her to restore either the 
 deed or the plantation. Elizabeth charged that Anna was 
 indebted to her for a certain amount of tobacco, which she 
 had taken to England for her, and of which she had never 
 been able to obtain a correct account. It was really con- 
 fusion and rascality. Elizabeth, who was a bad person, 
 appealed always to some papers which she said she had not 
 
THE CASE SETTLED. PRINTZDORP. 
 
 185 
 
 with her. Ephraim who was clerk of both the courts, 
 namely, of Upland and New Castle, 1 wrote down separately 
 from the beginning the claims which they set up against 
 each other, and decided that the plantations should be 
 mutually restored, and the debts balanced, and he made 
 them agree to it, although Elizabeth was very unwilling. 
 Robert "Wade, who is the best quaker we have yet seen, 
 and his wife, who is a good woman, were both troubled, as 
 they said, as also was the prophetess, that such things should 
 take place among their people before strangers, and be 
 settled through them, and when there were other strangers 
 present. Whereupon Ephraim said, " Who do you sup- 
 pose we are ? Possibly we are as good Christians as you 
 are." And certainly he exhibited something more chris- 
 tianly in reconciling and pacifying them than they who 
 brewed this work had done, or those who would be so very 
 devout that they would neither speak to them authori- 
 tatively nor admonish them with kindness to any effect. 
 The Lord has caused us to see this example that we might 
 know that these people are still covetous, and that almost 
 all of them are attached to the world and to themselves — 
 that is, they are worldly people, which shows the holiness 
 of the spirit by which they are actuated! As regards 
 Anna Salters, it was said she was mundane, carnal, covetous, 
 and artful, although she appeared to be the most pious. 
 Her sayings and discussions were continually mixed up 
 with protestations of the presence and omniscience of 
 God, and upon the salvation of her soul, so truly gross 
 that if the ordinary boors had talked so, they would have 
 been punished and expelled. But what are not those people 
 capable of, who present themselves to be carried away as 
 
 1 Ephraim Hermans was appointed " clerk of the court of Newcastle 
 in Delaware, and of Upland in the river," hy Governor Andros, on the 
 23d September, 1G76. Breeiate, Penn. vs. Calvert, 45. 
 
 24 
 
180 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 we have mentioned above ; as well as others in this country, 
 who publish and declare one, that she is Mary the mother 
 of the Lord; another, that she is Mary Magdalen, and 
 others that they are Martha, John, &c, scandalizers, as we 
 heard them in a tavern, who not only so called themselves, 
 but claimed to he really such. For this reason, Mr. Wade 
 would no longer have them in his house, making them 
 leave, although it was well in the evening ; for the Wades 
 said they could not endure it. Indeed, God the Lord will 
 not let that pass by, for it is not far from blasphemy. lie 
 will bring them to justice, if they be of his elect. 
 
 It was very late in the evening, in consequence of this 
 dispute, before we supped and went to sleep. We were 
 taken to a place to sleep directly before an open window, 
 to which there was no shutter, so that it could not be 
 closed, and as the night was very cold, and it froze hard, 
 we could scarcely keep ourselves warm. 
 
 23d, Thursday. It was late before we left here, and we 
 therefore had time to look around a little, and see the 
 remains of the residence of Madame Papegay, who had 
 had her dwelling here when she left Tiruikonk. We had 
 nowhere seen so many vines together as we saw here, which 
 had been planted for the purpose of shading the walks on 
 the river side, in between the trees. The dinner being 
 ready, I was placed at the table next to the beforenamed 
 prophetess, who while they all sat at the table, began to 
 groau and quake gradually until at length the whole bench 
 shook. Then rising up she began to pray, shrieking so 
 that she could be heard as far as the river. This done, she 
 was quickly in the dish, and her mouth began immediately 
 to prate worldly and common talk in which she was not the 
 least ready. When the meal was finished, Ephraim 
 obtained a horse for himself and his wife, and we followed 
 him on foot, carrying our traveling bags. Our host took 
 us to the path, and Ephraim's servant was to act as our 
 
FORT CHRISTINA. NEWCASTLE. 
 
 187 
 
 guide. In traveling along we observed the difference 
 between tbe soil on the North river and this, and also that 
 this difference was not so great as is usually asserted. 
 After we had proceeded about three hours, our guide 
 missed the way, and we had gone a good distance before 
 he became aware of it, and would have gone on still further 
 if we had not told him that we thought the course we were 
 going was wrong. We therefore left one road, and went 
 straight back in search of the other which we at length 
 found. A man overtook us who was going the same way. 
 and we followed him. We crossed the Sckiltpadts kil 
 (Tortoise or Turtle creek), where there was a fall of water 
 over the rocks, affording a site for a grist-mill which was 
 erected there. This Sckiltpadts kil is nothing but a branch 
 or arm of Christina kil 1 into which it discharges itself, and 
 is so named on account of the quantities of tortoises which 
 are found there. Having crossed it we came to the house 
 of the miller who was a Swede or Holsteiner whom they 
 usually call Tapoesie. He was short in person, but a very 
 friendly fellow. Ephraim had told us we would find him 
 such as we did, for he had ridden there before us. He had, as 
 it appeared, several well-behaved children, among whom 
 was a little girl who resembled very much our little Judith 
 in her whole countenance and figure, and was about the 
 same age, and had she met us by our house, I should have 
 considered her Judith. Her name was Anne Mary. We 
 were welcome here, and were entertained according to the 
 man's circumstances. 
 
 24th, Friday. Ephraim having some business here, we did 
 not leave very speedily. This miller had shot an animal they 
 call a muskrat, the skin of which we saw hanging up to dry. 
 He told us they were numerous in the creeks. We asked 
 
 1 The SJidpot is evidently a corruption of this name, though probably the 
 Brandywine is here meant. 
 
188 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 them why they gave them that name, and he said became 
 thoy smelt so, especially their testicles, which he had pre- 
 served of this one, and gave my comrade, remarking that 
 they were intended for some amateur or other, and he could 
 do little with them. The muskrat is not larger than the 
 common rat. It has gray hair, and the fleece is sometimes 
 sold with other peltries, hut it is not worth much, although 
 it has some odor. It was ahout noon when we were set 
 across the creek in a canoe. "We. proceeded thence a small 
 distance over land to a place where the fortress of Chris- 
 tina had stood which had heen constructed and possessed 
 hy the Swedes, hut taken by the Dutch governor, Stuy- 
 vesant, and afterwards, I believe, demolished by the Eng- 
 lish. AVe went into a house here belonging to some 
 Swedes, with whom Ephraim had some business. "We 
 were then taken over Christina creek in a canoe, and landed 
 at the spot where Stuyvesant threw up his battery to attack 
 the fort, and compelled them to surrender. At this spot 
 there are many medlar trees which bear good fruit from 
 which one Jaquel, who does not live far from there, makes 
 good brandy or spirits, which we tasted and found even 
 better than French brandy. Ephraim obtained a horse at 
 this Jaquetfs, and rode on towards Santhoek, now Newcastle, 
 and we followed him on foot, his servant leading the way. 
 AVe arrived about four o'clock at Ephraim's house, where 
 we congratulated each other, and were glad, thanking the 
 Lord in our hearts for his constantly accompanying grace. 
 "We found here the young brother of the wife with the ser- 
 vant, who had come with the horses from the falls overland, 
 and had been at the house several days. "We also saw here 
 Ephraim's sister, Miss Margaret Hermans, who showed us 
 much kindness. She was a little volatile, but of a sweet 
 and good disposition. She had been keeping house during 
 the absence of Ephraim. Truly the Lord has in all these 
 things been very good to us, for we knew not where to go, 
 
JOHN MOLL. PETER ALDRICHS. 
 
 189 
 
 and he has directed us among these people, who have done 
 out of love what they have shown us. We knew not 
 where to lodge, and he has provided us lodgings where we 
 were so free and had, according to the circumstances of 
 the time, what we desired. We hope and doubt not the 
 Lord will visit that house in grace, and even gives us some 
 assurances in what we have seen. 
 
 2b(h, Saturday. We rested a little to-day. Ephraim and 
 his wife and we ourselves had several visits from different 
 persons who came to welcome us, as Mons. Jan Moll, 1 whom 
 we had conversed within New York, and who now offered 
 us his house and all things in it, even pressing them upon 
 us. But we were not only contented with our present cir- 
 cumstances, hut we considered that we would not be doing 
 right to leave Ephraim's house without reason. We there- 
 fore thanked him, but nevertheless in such a manner, that 
 we took notice of his kindness, and answered accordingly. 
 
 1 Mr. John Moll was a person of considerable distinction in the affairs 
 of Newcastle and the Delaware, for many years. He was one of the jus- 
 lues of the court at Newcastle during the whole period of the Duke of 
 York's government, and was for some time its presiding justice. That 
 court was an appellate tribunal from all the other courts on the river. He 
 was named as commissioner in conjunction with Ephraim Hermans, in 
 the deed of feoffment from the Duke of York to William Penn, to give 
 possession and seisin of the town of Newcastle, and a circle of land twelve 
 miles around it, a duty which they performed. His account of the cere- 
 mony is curious. He certifies that on the first arrival of Mr. Penn from 
 England at Newcastle in October, 1G62, and after considering for twenty- 
 four hours the deeds which Mr. Penn showed him from the Duke of York, 
 we did " by virtue of the powers given us by the said letters of attorney, 
 give and surrender in the Duke's name to Mr. Penn, actual and peaceable 
 possession of the fort at Newcastle, by giving him the key thereof to lock 
 upon himself alone the door; which, being opened by him again, we did 
 deliver to him again also one turf, with a twig upon it, a porringer with 
 river water and soil, in part of all that was specified in the said indenture 
 and according to the true intent and meaning thereof." Breviate, Penn vs. 
 Calvert, 52-4-5. Hazard's Annals of Penn, GOG-7. Our journalist subse- 
 quently furnishes some particulars in relation to Mr. Moll and his family. 
 
190 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 Peter Ablrix 1 also showed us much attention, as did others, 
 to all of whom we returned our thanks. We went out to 
 view this little place, which is not of much moment, con- 
 sisting of only forty or fifty houses. There is a fine pro- 
 spect from it, as it lies upon a point of the river where I 
 took a sketch. 
 
 26th, Sunday. We went to the church, hut the minister, 
 Tessemaker, who has to perform service in three places, 
 over the river, Newcastle, and Apoquemenf was to-day 
 over the river, and there was, therefore, nothing done, 
 except what was done by a poor limping clerk, as he was 
 a cripple and poor in body. He read from a book a 
 sermon, or short explanation, and sung and made a 
 prayer, if it may be called such, and tjien the people went 
 home. In the afternoon there was a prelection again 
 about the catechism. 
 
 27th, Monday. The weather was sharp and windy. "We 
 had intended to proceed on our journey but we could not 
 very well do so. My comrade had also been indisposed in 
 the night. \Ve therefore waited for the opportunity which 
 the Lord would present. Meanwhile we had another visit. 
 Ephraim advised us to wait a day or two until his brother, 
 Casparus Hermans, whom he expected there, should arrive, 
 and who would conduct us farther into Maryland. 
 
 28th, Tuesday. Little transpired while we were waiting 
 to-day, except that we spoke to several persons of the way 
 of the Lord, and particularly to the sister of Ephraim, 
 Miss Margaret, who received with some favor what was 
 
 'Peter Aldricks or Alrichs was the nephew of Jaeoh Alrichs, first vice 
 director of the colony estahlished at New Amstel, afterwards Newcastle, 
 by the city of Amsterdam, in 1657, and probably came over with him. He 
 was commissary at that colony at the time of the English conquest, and 
 was subsequently appointed by Governor Colve, commander and schout 
 of the South river. His lands were confiscated by the English govern- 
 ment. Colonial History, II, 111, 114; III, 115. 
 
 2 Apoquinimink. 
 
A PLANTATION ON THE DELAWARE. 191 
 
 said to her, and also to Ephraim and his wife, who we 
 hope will bring forth the seed the Lord has sown in them, 
 in his own time. 
 
 29th, Wednesday. "We were still waiting, although 
 Ephraim had sent for his brother ; but we obtained tidings 
 that he had gone to Maryland, and was coming back home 
 immediately, as he had gone to visit his father who lives 
 at the entrance into Maryland and was sick. 
 
 80th, Thursday. The weather had been cold and windy, 
 but had now cleared up ; so that some of the servants of 
 Casparus came, who confirmed the account that their 
 master had gone to Maryland, but they were expecting 
 him home. "Whereupon Mons. Moll who had to go to one 
 of his plantations lying on tbe road leading to Casparus's 
 house, requested us to accompany him, so that the servants 
 of 'Casparus on their return home would find us at his 
 place and take us on to the house of Casparus. We ac- 
 cordingly started, Mr. Moll riding a horseback and we 
 following him on foot, carrying our traveling sacks, but 
 sometimes exchanging with him, and thus also riding a 
 part of the way. This plantation of his is situated about 
 fifteen mi^es from Newcastle. It was about ten o'clock in 
 the morning when we took leave of our friends and left. 
 "We passed through a tolerably good country, but the soil 
 was a little sandy, and it was three o'clock in the afternoon 
 when we reached the plantation. There were no persons 
 there except some servants and negroes, the commander 
 being a Parisian. The dwellings were very badly ap- 
 pointed, especially for such a man as Mons. Moll. There 
 was no place to retire to, nor a chair to sit on, or a bed to 
 sleep on. For their usual food the servants have nothing but 
 maize bread to eat, and water to drink, which sometimes is 
 not very good and scarcely enough for life, yet they are 
 compelled to work hard. They are brought from England 
 in great numbers into Maryland, Virginia and the Menades 
 
192 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 mid sold each one according to his condition, for a certain 
 term of years, four, live, six, seven or more. And thus 
 they are by hundreds of thousands compelled to spend 
 their lives here and in Virginia, and elsewhere in planting 
 that vile tobacco, which all vanishes into smoke, and is for 
 the most part miserably abused. It is the chief article of 
 trade in the country. If they only wished it they could 
 have every thing for the support of life in abundance, for 
 they have land and opportunity sufficient for that end; but 
 this insatiable avarice must be fed and sustained by the 
 bloody sweat of these poor slaves. After we had supped, 
 Mr. Moll, who would be civil, wished us to lie upon a bed 
 that was there, and he would lie upon a bench, which we 
 declined; and as this continued some length of time I lay 
 down on a heap of maize, and he and my comrade after- 
 wards did the same. This was very uncomfortable and 
 chilly, but it had to go so. 
 
 December 1st, Friday. Mr. Moll wishing to do us every 
 kindness, as he indeed did do many, wrote addresses which 
 might be serviceable to us in Maryland, for he was not 
 only very well known there, but had influence among the 
 people by reason of the trade they had with each other, 
 and of his being a member of the court, and having some 
 authority. He also gave us some letters of recommenda- 
 tion and credit in case we might have any necessity for 
 the latter, in all which he indeed showed he had an affec- 
 tion for us. After we had breakfasted, the servants of 
 Casparus not having arrived, he himself conducted us to 
 one of the nearest plantations where his cooper was, who 
 had also something to do for Casparus, and would conduct 
 us farther on, as took place ; and we arrived about three 
 o'clock at the house of Casparus. But he had not yet 
 come home nor had the servants arrived, for whom we had 
 been waiting. 
 
 2d, Saturday. We waited here all this day, and had time 
 
AUGUSTINE HEERMANS. BOHEMIA. 
 
 193 
 
 and opportunity to explore this place, which thgy call Au- 
 gustine. We found it well situated, and would not- badly 
 suit us. There are large and good meadows and marshes 
 near it, and the soil is quite good. It has much good tim- 
 ber and a very fine prospect, for looking from the strand 
 you can see directly south into the mouth of the hay, as 
 this place lies on the west side of the river in a bend. There 
 is much land attached to it, which he purchased from the 
 Indians for almost nothing, or nothing to signify. Towards 
 evening two Englishmen and a quaker stopped here 
 to pass the night who were also going to Maryland. 
 
 3d, Sunday. The Englishmen left this morning at day- 
 light, and after breakfast we determined also to leave, 
 delivering a letter, which Ephraim had given us for his 
 brother, to his wife. We started at nine o'clock, and fol- 
 lowed a large broad wagon road, which Casparus had 
 made through the woods, from his house to his father's 
 who lived in the uppermost part of Maryland, that is, as 
 high up as it is yet inhabited by Christians. This road is 
 about twenty-two miles long, and runs almost due west, 
 but a little more northerly than southerly. When we 
 were about half way we met Casparus on horseback with 
 a cart, his wife having described him to us. We told him 
 we had been to his house waiting for him, and had left a 
 letter there for him from his brother. He regretted, he 
 said, he had not known it and was not at home, but he 
 hoped, and so did we, that we would be able to converse 
 together on our return, and with this we pursued our re- 
 spective roads. It was very warm to-day, and we were all 
 in a perspiration. We reached Augustynus Hermans the 
 father of these two brothers, about three o'clock. Augus- 
 tine Hermans is a Bohemian, and formerly lived on the 
 Manathans, and had possessed farms or plantations there, 
 but for some reason, I know not what, disagreeing with 
 the Butch governor, Stuyvesant, he repaired to this place, 
 25 ' 
 
I!»4 
 
 JOURNEY TO TIIF. DELAWARE. 
 
 which is laid down upon a complete map, which he lias 
 made of Maryland and Virginia, where he is very well 
 acquainted, which map he has dedicated to the king. In 
 consequence of his having done the people of these two 
 countries a great service, he has been presented with a 
 tract of land of about a thousand or twelve hundred acres, 
 which he, knowing where the hest land was, has, chosen 
 up here, and given it the uame of Bohemia. It is a nohlc 
 piece of land, indeed the hest we have seen in all our 
 journey south, having large, thick, and high trees, much 
 black walnut and chestnut, as tall and straight as a reed. 
 
 It was, then, on this day and at this plantation, that we 
 made our entry into Maryland, which was so named, I 
 helieve, in the time of Queen Maria, 1 when it was discov- 
 ered or began to be settled. It is a large territory, but has 
 as yet no fixed boundaries, except only on the south where 
 it is separated from Virginia by a straight line running west- 
 erly from 2 to the river. All north of this line is 
 
 Maryland, and all south of it Virginia. On the east it is 
 bounded by Xew Netherland, but that line is undefined ; 
 and on the north and west indefinitely by the Indians. 
 The principal rivers are on the east side of the bay. 
 
 Maryland is considered the most fertile portion of North 
 America, and it were to be wished that it was also the 
 most healthy, though it is more healthy than its neighbor, 
 Virginia, which has to give passage by water through the 
 great bay of (the Chesapeake), to Maryland. It is also 
 
 1 Henrietta Maria, consort of Charles I. 
 
 2 This point could not well have been given at that time by the jour- 
 nalist or any bodv else, and therefore is left blank by him. According to 
 the description of this line in the charter of Maryland to Lord Baltimore 
 by Charles I, it is, " a right line drawn from the promontory, or headland, 
 called Watkins Point, situated upon the bay aforesaid (Chesapeake) near 
 the liver "Wighco, on the west unto the main ocean on the east." Boz- 
 man, II, 10. 
 
SASSAFRAS RIVER. THE CHESAPEAKE. 195 
 
 very rich in fish as well as in all kinds of water fowl. 
 There are few Indians in comparison with the extent of 
 country. "When the English first discovered and settled 
 Virginia and Maryland, they did great (wrong) to these 
 poor people, and almost exterminated them. 
 
 To return to Augustine Hermans, he was sick when we 
 arrived at his house. We found there the three English- 
 men hefore mentioned, who had left the house of Casparus 
 in the morning. They were ahout proceeding further on 
 their journey. We delivered to Augustine a letter from 
 his son Ephraim, and related to him how we had traveled 
 with him from the Manathans, and how he was, which 
 rejoiced him. Becoming thus acquainted he showed us 
 every kindness he could in his condition, as he was very 
 miserable, both in soul and body. His plantation was 
 going much into decay, as well as his body for want of 
 attention. There was not a Christian man, as they term 
 it, to serve him ; nobody but negroes. All this was in- 
 creased by a miserable, doubly miserable wife; but so 
 miserable that I will not relate it here. All his children 
 have been compelled on her account to leave their father's 
 house. He spoke to us of his land, and said he would 
 never sell or hire it to Englishmen, but would sell it to us 
 cheap, if we were inclined to buy. But we satisfied our- 
 selves and him by looking at it then, hoping that we might 
 see each other on our return. We were directed to a 
 place to sleep, but the screeching of the wild geese and 
 other wild fowl in the creek before the door, prevented us 
 from having a good sleep, though it answered. 
 
 4:th, Monday. After breakfast we were set over this creek, 
 or Bohemia river, in a canoe, after Augustine had, as the 
 head man of the place, signed the passport which Mr. 
 Moll, Ephraim and Aldrix had given us. Our first address 
 was to one Mr. Van Waert, who had arrived from England 
 the day before, and who gave us little news, except that a 
 
196 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 certain skipper Jacob, who lived at the Mamthans, had 
 left England some days before him, bound there. We 
 were glad of this, thinking we would receive some letters 
 from Fatherland, as we bad, when we were at New Castle, 
 written to our hostess at New York, that in case the 
 skippe r Jacob had letters for us, she should send them to 
 the South river. Towards evening we came to a Swede's, 
 named Mouns, where wc had to he put across a creek, 
 after we had mistaken the road. We spent the night with 
 him, and were entirely welcome. He and his wife and 
 some of his children spoke good Dutch, and conversed 
 with us about various matters concerning the country. 
 
 5th, Tuesday. Wc left after breakfast, and he took us 
 upon the road to go to Captain Frishy's. Leaving Mr. 
 Jilarfafoiie's plantation on the right hand of Frisby's, we 
 came to the court house standing on the Sassafras river, 
 which is also an ordinary. We requested to be taken over 
 the river, as there is a ferry here, which they did, and it 
 cost us each an English shilling. We then traveled along 
 the river until we came to a small creek, which runs very 
 shallow over the strand into the river. Here we had to 
 take off our shoes and stockings in order to cross over, 
 although it was piercing cold. We continued some 
 distance further, along the river, to the Great bay, when 
 we came to another creek and called out to be taken across, 
 which was done. The road was shown us further on to 
 Mr. Howd's, where we had a letter of recommendation 
 and credit to deliver Captain Seybry, who was not at home, 
 but had gone to the ships which had arrived. So we gave 
 the letter to Mr. Hov:el, to hand to Mr. Seybry. We slept 
 here this night, and were welcome. 
 
 6th, Wednesday. This morning we crossed a creek, and 
 were shown the way to another plantation, where we 
 would be set over still another. To this plantation we 
 soon came, but the people excused themselves from taking 
 
KENT COUNTY, AND ITS FIRST PLANTERS. 197 
 
 us over, saying that their canoe was not at home, and sent 
 us to another plantation on the right. We • crossed there 
 and saw on almost every tree one or two grape vines, and 
 that for a long distance along the road until we reached 
 the plantation of one Hendrick Hcndricksen, where no one 
 was at home except a woman, who nevertheless lent us a 
 canoe with which we might not only cross over, but go a 
 considerable distance down the creek, trusting her canoe 
 to us. We arrived in this at the plantation of Air. Hopkins, 
 who was not at home. Being fatigued, and not having yet 
 breakfasted, we asked for something to drink that clear 
 water from, and afterwards for something to eat ; but we 
 could obtain nothing except a piece of maize bread with 
 which we satisfied ourselves. The worst was, she would 
 not show us the way, which, however, we found ourselves. 
 We arrived at noon at Salsberry's, who also was not at 
 home. They had all sailed down below to the ships. But 
 we found a good old woman who immediately put before 
 us something to eat, and gave us some exceedingly good 
 cider to drink. We were, therefore, somewhat strengthened. 
 This plantation is one of the most pleasantly situated I 
 have seen, having upon the side of the great bay a fine 
 prospect, and a pretty view in the distance, as the sketch 
 shows. We left here about three o'clock, and were taken 
 across the creek and put upon the road, and at evening- 
 came to the house of one Richard Adams, an Englishman, 
 who had a Dutch wife born at Deventer. The husband 
 was not at home, and she had almost forgotten her Dutch. 
 However, we were welcome, and we remained there for 
 the night, and rested reasonably well. 
 
 7th, Thursday. We left there after breakfast, and were 
 put across a creek which runs by the door, and shown the 
 road to go to an English plantation. The owner was not 
 at home, but we first passed a small plantation where an 
 Amsterdamer was engaged in carpenter work, who very wil- 
 
198 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 lingly pointed out the road. We found at the English- 
 man's ii younj; man from Middleburgh, who had heen sold 
 as a servant, hut had nerved out his time. He was in the 
 last Knglish war, had heen taken by a privateer and carried 
 to Virginia, and there sold for four years, which having 
 expired, he thought of returning to Fatherland next year. 
 We were mutually unacquainted with each other, hut lie 
 was glad to see one of his countrymen. He took us to the 
 road, and wc proceeded on to a plantation where the people 
 were in the woods working, to whom we went to inquire 
 the way. The master of the plantation came to meet us, 
 accompanied by his wife and a person who spoke high 
 Dutch. The owner's name was Miller. We told him we 
 wished to learn the road to Mr. Hosier's. He was about to 
 show us the way, hut as this was far around, his wife said 
 he had better let us be taken over a creek which ran in 
 front of his plantation, and we would have a less distance 
 to go, whereupon he gave us directions that it should be so 
 done. Wc thanked him, and went to his plantation for 
 the purpose of going over, but we were not there soon 
 enough, for there was a man gone over who was now almost 
 on the other side, who called out to us that he was not 
 coming back, because there was another canoe on this side 
 where there was a woman. This I immediately launched 
 in the water, as we had permission, and went over, and the 
 ■woman took it back. We had here as company the man 
 who had crossed over before us, for a piece of the way, and 
 he directed us to another plantation, also with a creek in 
 front of it where we had to cross. There was no one here 
 except some women attending upon another sick woman. 
 The man who had traveled with us a part of the way, after- 
 wards came up and again directed us, but we came to a 
 different plantation from what we intended. If we had 
 gone to the right hand, we should have proceeded straight, 
 for we would then have found Mr. Commegys, a Dutchman, 
 
MR. COMMEGYS. A CONSULTATION. 
 
 199 
 
 whom we were in search of according to the address Mr. 
 Moll had given ns, and for whom we had inquired. We 
 should have found him with many of his people bringing 
 slaughtered meat over the creek. The owner of the plant- 
 ation we had come to, had no canoe at home ; but he 
 assisted us by going with us himself, where a son of Mr. 
 Commegys, as he said, worked a plantation, who, if he heard 
 us call, would certainly come and take us over. But when 
 we came to the creek we saw all those people who had 
 carried the meat over in the boat, but this man did not 
 know them, and doubted whether they were Commegys's 
 men . We arrived at last at Cornelis's, the son of Commegys 
 aud called out to him, and he brought a canoe which 
 relieved us, as it was close on to evening. We thanked 
 the person who had brought us, and stepped into the canoe. 
 Cornelia, who was an active young man, was pleased to meet 
 Hollanders, although he himself was born in this country. 
 We found Mr. Commegys on the next plantation, who 
 bade us welcome, and after we had drank some cider, 
 accompanied us with one of his company to Mr. Hosier's, 
 who was a good generous-hearted man, better than any 
 Englishman we had met with in this country. He had 
 formerly had much business with Mr. Moll, but their affairs 
 in England running behindhand a little, they both came 
 and settled clown here ; and, therefore, Mr. Moll and he had 
 a great regard for each other. He showed us very particu- 
 lar attention, although we were strangers. Something was 
 immediately set before Mr. Commegys and ourselves to 
 eat, in which the wife manifested as much kindness as the 
 husband. This was not unacceptable, for we had eaten 
 nothing all day. They requested Mr. Commegys and us 
 very urgently to stay all night, but he desired to go home, 
 although it was two or three hours distant from there, and 
 it already began to grow dark. However, we left with 
 him on foot, but he obtained a horse on the road which 
 
200 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 enabled bim to travel better than we could witb our 
 wearied feet. We readied bis bouse about eight o'clock, 
 where be and bis wife bade us welcome. We were well 
 entertained, and went easily to sleep, having traveled 
 during the day a great distance. 
 
 8//', JEHday. We advised this morning with Mr. Com- 
 megys as to proceeding farther down to Virginia, and 
 crossing the bay, in pursuance of the address which we 
 had received from Mr. Moll, and our recollection, to wit, 
 that arriving at Mr. Commegys's we should then consult 
 him, and he would give us further information. In talking 
 the matter over with him, lie said, he saw no probability of 
 our being able to accomplish this, and advised us against 
 it, for several reasons. First, the country below there was 
 full of creeks and their branches, more so than that we had 
 passed over, and it was difficult to get across them, as boats 
 were not always to be obtained, and the people were not 
 very obliging. As to going by water, either down or across 
 the bay, there was not much navigating at this time of 
 year, the winter being so close at hand, and the worst of it 
 would be to get back again. To go by sea to the South 
 river, or New York, there was not much opportunity, and 
 it was attended with great danger and inconvenience. As 
 to exploring the land, he assured us we had seen the best; 
 the rest of it was poor and covered with bushes, especially 
 in Virginia. It would cost us much at this time, and we 
 would have to do with a godless and very crafty people, 
 who would be the more so towards us, because we were 
 strangers who could not speak their language, and did not 
 understand the customs of the country, and so forth, all 
 which we took into consideration. After breakfast a man 
 arrived with a letter from Mr. Miller, requesting Commegys 
 to go with bim in his boat across the bay to the ships. 
 Commegys not wishing to go, answered the letter, and said 
 to us in general terms something about a man who wished 
 
EFFORT TO CROSS THE CHESAPEAKE. 201 
 
 to cross the bay in a boat, but be did not express himself 
 fully, and we also did not understand hirn well. "We sup- 
 posed the man was at his plantation with a boat, and after 
 waiting awhile without perceiving any thing of him, we 
 asked him where the man was with the boat. He said he 
 was not there, but that it was Captain Miller's boat which 
 was going, and he lived about ten or twelve miles off We 
 immediately resolved to go there, which Ave did, about 
 noon, after having breakfasted and dined together. Mr. 
 Commegys was from Vienna, and had had a Dutch woman 
 for a wife, who had taught her children to speak the Dutch 
 language ; they therefore had a kind disposition towards Hol- 
 landers. After her death he married an English woman, 
 and he had himself learned many of the English maxims, 
 although it was against his feelings ; for we were sensible 
 that he dared not work for us with an open heart. He told 
 us he would rather live at the Cape of Good Hope than 
 here. " How is that," said I, " when there is such good 
 land here?" "True," he replied, "but if you knew the 
 people here as well as I do, you would be able to under- 
 stand why." 
 
 We departed from his house over the same road by 
 which we had come, thinking that if nothing more should 
 result from this opportunity, we would at least have 
 advanced so far on our way back. We arrived at about 
 three o'clock at Mr. Hosier's, who received us kindly, and 
 would have cheerfully kept us all night, but understanding 
 our intention, he not only let us go and showed us the road, 
 but went with us himself in order to facilitate our getting 
 over the creek ; but on arriving at the next plantation on 
 the creek, there was no canoe to put us over, and he there- 
 fore took us to another, the same one where we had found 
 the Commegys, and where we now found his son, of whom 
 I have before spoken, who soon had his boat ready, when 
 thanking Mi*. Hosier, and taking our leave of him, we 
 26 
 
202 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 crossed over. Young Commegys showed us the road, which 
 we followed to a creek, where we found a canoe, hut no 
 person with it. We took ourselves over in it, and came to 
 the house where we left the sick woman before spoken of. 
 There were now some men at home whom we requested 
 to show us the road, and the same person who brought us 
 here over the same road, accompanied us a part of the way, 
 and gave us directions how to proceed. We struck the 
 creek directly opposite Mr. Miller's plantation, as it began 
 to get dark, and on calling out were taken over. We 
 inquired of Mr. Miller whether he intended to cross the 
 bay in his boat and when, and whether he would tiike us 
 with him. lie said yes, but he did not know whether he 
 would leave the next day or not. He would start as soon 
 as the weather would permit, as he had some casks of 
 tobacco to carry over, with which we might help him; but 
 he did not know how we would manage on the other side, 
 as he had to go further up the river from there, and he saw 
 no chance for us to go down the bay or to cross back again. 
 "VVe finally concluded we would go with him, and remain 
 on board the ships until he came back to take us with him, 
 he promising not to leave there without coming for us. We 
 also found here the person who spoke high Dutch, and of 
 whom we have before said a word. We were able to con- 
 verse with him, but my companion could do so the best. 
 He resided on this plantation, and was a kind of proctor 
 or advocate in the courts. We passed the evening with 
 him. We were well entertained here, and had a good bed 
 to sleep on, which was very agreeable. 
 
 9/A, Saturday. We expected the trip would be made this 
 morning, but no mention was made of it, and we asked 
 him at last whether it would not be proceeded with. He 
 said the weather was not fit, and that as soon as it was 
 suitable we would start. But about noon the wind blowing 
 veiy fresh from the west, which was straight ahead, we gave 
 
RETURNING NORTH. WILD DUCKS. 
 
 203 
 
 up all hope of going to-day. Seeing that the same difficulty 
 might exist on Monday and the following days, as he said he 
 would not go over on Sunday, we determined to proceed, 
 after we had dined, with our journey hack to New Castle, 
 which we did, excusing ourselves on the ground that we 
 could not wait so long, and that time pressed us. So we 
 took our leave and went to Richard Adams's as we had 
 promised his wife when we went on, to stop there on our 
 return ; hut missing the way, or not knowing it we came 
 to a plantation and house ahout three o'clock, where there 
 was neither man nor beast, and no one from whom we 
 could inquire the road. "We chose the one we thought 
 best, and walked on till evening. We came to a plantation 
 on the point of the creek where Richard Adams lived 
 on the opposite side, being now on the great bay about 
 four miles below where we had to be. We were strangers 
 here, and had no address to these people, who, nevertheless, 
 showed us every kindness and treated us well. They told 
 us we had lost the way at the empty house, by taking the 
 road to the left instead of the right. 
 
 10th, Sunday. The son who went out to shoot at daylight, 
 put us on the road which would lead us to the creek directly 
 opposite Richard Adams's house, taking us back to the 
 empty plantation which we now left on the right hand. 
 We arrived at the place about eight o'clock, and were taken 
 over the creek by Richard Adams himself. He and his 
 wife were glad to see us, and bade us welcome. As it was 
 Sunday, and we had promised to write a letter to Holland 
 for his wife, we remained there this day, writing the letter 
 after dinner, and having time also to look around a little. 
 These people were so delighted at the service we were to 
 do them in Holland, of posting a letter to Steenwyk, and 
 sending an answer back to them, that they did not know 
 what to do for us. He gave us some French brandy to 
 drink, which he had purchased of the captains of the ships 
 
204 
 
 JOI KNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 who had brought it from England; but as it was an article 
 prohibited on pain of forfeiture, it was not to be bought 
 bore, and scarcely any thing else, for he had made an use- 
 less journey below, not being able to obtain shoes and 
 stockings for bis little children who were bare-legged. 
 
 I have nowhere seen so many ducks together as were in 
 the creek in front of this house. The water was so black 
 with them that it seemed when you looked from the land 
 below upon the water, as if it were a mass of filth or turf, 
 and when they flew up there was a rushing and vibration 
 of the air like a great storm coming through the trees, and 
 even like the rumbling of distant thunder, while the sky 
 over the whole creek was filled with them like a cloud, or 
 like the starlings fly at harvest time in Fatherland. There 
 was a boy about twelve years old who took aim at them 
 from the shore, not being able to get within good shooting 
 distance of them, but nevertheless shot loosely before they 
 flew away, and hit only three or four, complained of his 
 shot, as they are accustomed to shoot from six to twelve 
 and even eighteen and more at one shot. After supper we 
 eat some Maryland or Virginia oysters which he had 
 brought up with him. "We found them good, but the 
 Gouancs oysters at New York are better. 
 
 11th, Monday. "We left there after breakfast, the man 
 conducting us to the path which led to the plantation of 
 Mr. Stablcy, whose address we had from Mr. Moll, but he 
 was sick. W"e were here a little while, but nothing was 
 offered us to eat, and we only asked to drink. W"e wished 
 to be put across the Sassafras river here, but could not 
 accomplish it, although we were upon the bank of the river. 
 "We were directed to the ferry at the court bouse, which 
 was about two miles west, but difficult to find through the 
 woods. A person gave us a letter to take to the Mana- 
 ihans, who put us in the path leading to the ferry, where we 
 arrived about two o'clock, and called out to them to come 
 
DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 
 
 205 
 
 and take us over. Although the weather was perfectly 
 still and they could easily hear us, we were not taken over, 
 though we continued calling out to them until sundown. 
 As no one came for us, we intended to go back to the plant- 
 ation of Mr. Stabley, or one of those lying before us, and 
 to proceed there along the strand, but a creek prevented 
 us, and we had to search for the road by which we came. 
 We missed this road, although we were upon it, and could 
 not find that or any other plantation, and meanwhile it 
 became dark. Although the moon shone we could not go 
 straight, for it shone above, and did not give us light 
 enough to see through the trees any houses or plantations 
 at a distance, several of which we passed as the result 
 proved. "We were utterly perplexed and astray. We fol- 
 lowed the roads as we found them, now easterly and then 
 westerly, now a little more on one side, and then a little 
 more on the other, until we were completely tired out, and 
 wished ourselves back again upon the strand. We had to 
 keep on, however, or remain in the woods, and as the latter 
 did not suit us, we chose the former, fatigued as we were, 
 and uncertain as was the issue. I plucked up courage and 
 went singing along, which resounded through the woods, 
 although I was short of breath through weariness. My 
 comrade having taken his compass out of his sack in order 
 to see how we were going, had put it back again, and we 
 were walking on, when he discovered he had by that means 
 lost his degen, 1 (sword) ; though we had gone some distance, 
 we returned again to look for it, and I found it at last. We 
 continued on westerly again, but as we came to no end, we 
 determined to go across, through the thickets and bushes, 
 due north, in order if we. could not discover any plantation, 
 
 1 This word is possibly erroneously written. Its meaning here cannot 
 even be conjectured. 
 
206 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 we might at least reach the strand. It was now ahout nine 
 o'clock in the evening. After having proceeded about an 
 hour in that direction, we heard directly in front of us, a 
 dog barking, which gladdened us. It was a remarkable 
 circumstance, as dogs are used to keep men away from 
 dwellings, but served to bring us to them, and was remark- 
 able also for the providence of the Lord, who caused this 
 dog to bark, who, the nearer we approached, heard more 
 noise made by us among the leaves and bushes, and barked 
 the more, calling to us as it were, to come straight up to 
 him, which we endeavored to do. We soon came, how- 
 ever, to a very deep hollow, where we could see over the 
 tops of the trees in it, and on the other side what seemed to 
 be a shed of a plantation in which the dog was barking. 
 This encouraged us, but we had yet to go through the 
 hollow, where we could see no bottom, and the sides were 
 steep. We scrambled down I know not how, not seeing 
 whether there was water or a morass there ; but on reach- 
 ing the bottom, we found it was a morass grown up with 
 bushes. My comrade who followed me, called out to know 
 whether we could not pass round it, but we had to go 
 through it. We came at length to a small brook, not 
 broad, which we crossed and clambered up the side again, 
 when we came to the shed where the dog continued 
 barking, and thus led us to the house. His master was in 
 bed, and did not know what noise it was he heard. On our 
 knocking, he was surprised to hear such strange people at 
 the door, not knowing whether we were few or many, or 
 whether he dared invite us in or not, but he did. We had 
 then little trouble. When we entered the house he was 
 astonished to see us, inquiring what people we were, where 
 we came from, where we were going, but especially how we 
 reached there. 'No one, he said, could get there easily in 
 the day time, unless he were shown or knew the way well, 
 because they were very much hidden, and he would come 
 
HARD QUARTERS. WILD GEESE. 207 
 
 to all the other plantations sooner than this one. We told 
 him our adventures, at which he was as much astonished 
 as we were rejoiced. We had reasons to hehold the Lord in 
 all this, and to glorify him as we did silently in our hearts. 
 The wife arose and offered us a little to eat of what she had, 
 and afterwards gave me some deer skins, but they were as 
 dry and hard as a plank. I lay down upon them, and 
 crept under them, hut was little covered and still less 
 warmed by them. My companion went to lie with a ser- 
 vant in his bunk, but he did not remain there long before 
 a heavy rain came — before which the Lord had caused us 
 to enter the hoiise against all appearances — and compelled 
 him to evacuate his quarters very quickly. The water 
 entered in such great quantities that they would otherwise 
 have been wet through, though already it did not make 
 much difference with my comrade. We passed the night, 
 however, as well as we could, sitting, standing, or lying 
 down, but cold enough. 
 
 12th, Tuesday. This plantation was about four miles be- 
 low the court house or ferry, westerly towards the bay, and 
 we did not know if we went to the ferry that we would not 
 be compelled again to remain there calling out, uncertain 
 when we would be carried over. We therefore promised 
 this servant if he would put us across we would give him 
 the money, which we would otherwise have to pay at the 
 ferry. The master made gome objections on account of 
 the servant's work and the distance from the river, and 
 also because they had no canoe. The servant satisfied 
 him on these points, and he consented. We breakfasted 
 on what we could get, not knowing how or where we 
 would obtain any thing again. We three, accordingly, 
 went about two miles to the strand, where we found a 
 canoe, but it was almost entirely full of water, and what 
 was the worst of it, we had nothing with which to bale it 
 out. However, by one means and another we emptied it 
 
208 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 and launched the canoe. We stepped in and paddled over 
 the river to the plantation of a Mr. Frifby. I must not 
 forget to mention the great number of wild geese we saw 
 here on the river. They rose_ not in flocks of ten or 
 twelve, or twenty or thirty, hut continuously, wherever we 
 pushed our way ; and as they made room for us, there was 
 such an incessant clattering made with their wings upon 
 the water where they rose, and such a noise of those flying 
 higher up, that it was as if we were all the time surrounded 
 hy a whirlwind or a storm. This'proceeded not only from 
 geese, but from ducks and other water fowl ; and it is not 
 peculiar to this place alone, hut it occurred on all the 
 creeks and rivers we crossed, though they were most nume- 
 rous in the morning and evening when they arc most easily 
 shot. 
 
 Having crossed this river, which is of great width, we 
 came to the plantation of Mr. Frisby, which stands upon 
 an eminence and affords a very pleasant prospect, present- 
 ing a view of the great bay as well as the Sassafras river. 
 When we first came on, we stopped here, but the master 
 was not at home ; and as we had a letter of recommenda- 
 tion and credit to him, he found it at his house when he re- 
 turned. When we arrived there now, we intended merely 
 to ask his negroes for a drink, but he being apprised of 
 our arrival, made us go into the house, and entertained 
 us well. After we had partaken of a good meal, he had 
 horses made ready for us immediately to ride to Bohemia 
 river, which hardly deserves the name of a river in respect 
 to other creeks. We mounted on horseback, then, about 
 ten o'clock, he and one of his friends leading a piece of the 
 way. Upon separating, he left us a boy to show us the 
 path and bring back the horses. This boy undertaking 
 more than he knew, assured us he was well acquainted 
 with the road ; but after a while, observing the course we 
 rode, and the distance we had gone, and that we had 
 
DELAWARE AND CHESAPEAKE CANAL. 209 
 
 ridden as long as we ought to have done, if we had heen 
 going right, we doubted no longer we had missed the way, 
 as truly appeared in the end ; for about three o'clock in 
 the afternoon we came upon a broad cart road, when we 
 discovered we had kept too far to the right and had gone 
 entirely around Bohemia river. We supposed we were 
 now acquainted with the road, and were upon the one 
 which ran from Casparus Hermans's to his father's, not 
 knowing there were other cart roads. We rode along this 
 fine road for about an hour or an hour and a half, in order 
 to reach Augustine Hermans, when we heard some persons 
 calling out to us from the woods, "Hold, where are you 
 riding to ? " Certain, as we supposed we were, in our 
 course, we answered, " to Augustine Hermans." " You 
 should not go that road then," they rejoined, " for you are 
 out of the way." We therefore rode into the bushes in 
 order to go to them, and learned that we were not upon 
 the road we thought we were, but on the road from Apo- 
 qaemene, that is, a cart road made from Apoqucmcne, a small 
 village situated upon a creek, to Bohemia creek or river. 
 Upon this road the goods which go from the South river 
 to Maryland by land, are carried, and also those which 
 pass inland from Maryland to the South river, because 
 these two creeks, namely, the Apoquemene, and the Bohe- 
 mia, one running up from Maryland, and the other from 
 the Delaware river, as the English call the South river, 
 come to an end close to each other, and perhaps shoot by 
 each other, although they are not navigable so far ; but are 
 navigable for eight miles, that is two Dutch miles of fifteen 
 to a degree. When the Dutch governed the country the 
 distance was less, namely, six miles. The digging a canal 
 through was then talked of, the land being so low ; which 
 would have afforded great convenience for trade on the 
 South river, seeing that they would have come from Mary- 
 land to buy all they had need of, and would have been able 
 27 
 
210 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 to transport their tobacco more easily to that river, than 
 to the great hay of Virginia, as they now have to do, for a 
 large part of Maryland. •Besides, the cheap market of the 
 Hollanders in the South [river] would have drawn more 
 trade; and if the people of Maryland had goods to ship on 
 their own account, they could do it sooner and more 
 readily, as well as more conveniently in the South [river] 
 than in the great hay, and therefore, would have chosen 
 this route, the more so because as many of their goods, 
 perhaps, would for various reasons be shipped to Holland, 
 as to England. But as this is a subject of greater import- 
 ance than it seems upon the first view, it is well to con- 
 sider whether it should not be brought to the attention of 
 higher authorities than particular governors. What is 
 now done by land in carts, might then be done by water, 
 for a distance of more than six hundred miles. 
 
 We had, then, come on this road with our horses to the 
 carrying-place into Maryland and more than three miles 
 from where we supposed we were. To go there we would 
 have had to pass through woods and over small morassy 
 creeks. The sun was nearly down, and we therefore ad- 
 vised with the persons before mentioned. One of them 
 was a quaker who was building a small house for a tavern, 
 or rather an ale house, for the purpose of entertaining 
 travelers, and the other was the carpenter who was assist- 
 ing him on the house, and could speak good Dutch, having 
 resided a long time at the Manathans. We were most 
 concerned for the young man and the horses. The quaker, 
 who had put up a temporary shed, made of the bark of 
 trees, after the manner of the Indians, with both ends 
 open, and little larger than a dog's kennel, and where at 
 the best, we three might possibly have been able to lie, es- 
 pecially when a fire was made which would have to be 
 done, offered us his lodgings if we wished, and as good 
 accommodations as he had, which were not much. He 
 
BLAZED TREES. APOQUINIMINK. 
 
 211 
 
 had nothing to eat hut maize hreacl which was poor 
 enough, and some small wild beans boiled in water ; and 
 little to lie on, or to cover one, except the bare ground and 
 leaves. "We would not have rejected this fare if the Lord 
 had made it necessary, and we were afterwards in circum- 
 stances where we did not have as good as this ; but now 
 we could do better. The other person, an Irishman, who 
 lived about three miles from there, did not urge us much, 
 because, perhaps, he did not wish us to see how easily he 
 would make two English shillings for which we had agreed 
 with him to take the horses and boy to the creek, and put 
 them on the path to reach home. "We were to walk to his 
 house, conducted by the quaker, while he rode round the 
 creek with the horses. We had to cross it in a canoe, 
 which, when we were in it, was not the breadth of two 
 fingers above water, and threatened every moment to up- 
 set. We succeeded, however, in crossing over, and had 
 then to make our way through bushes by an untrodden 
 path, going from one newly marked tree to another. 
 These marks are merely a piece cut out of the bark with 
 an axe, about the height of a man's eyes from the ground ; 
 and by means of them the commonest roads are designated 
 through all New !N"etherland and Maryland ; but in conse- 
 quence of the great number of roads so marked, and their 
 running into and across each other, they are of little 
 assistance, and indeed often mislead. Pursuing our way 
 we arrived at the house of Maurice, as the carpenter was 
 called, where he had already arrived with the horses, and 
 had earned two shillings sooner than we had walked three 
 miles, and more than he had made by his whole day's 
 work. We went into the house and found his Irish wife, 
 engaged in cooking, whereby we made reprisals in another 
 way. After we had thus taken a good supper, we were 
 directed to a place to sleep which suited us entirely and 
 where we rested well. 
 
212 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 13/A, Widiirschnj. As soon as it was day we eat our break- 
 fast and left, after giving this man his two shillings, who 
 also immediately rode off with the young man and the 
 horses, to put him on the path to Sassafras river, while the 
 quaker who had remained there during the night, was to 
 take us to the broad cart road where he had found us. 
 lint neither he nor we, could follow the new marked trees 
 bo well in the morning light, and we soon missed the way, 
 and no wonder, for we now had the marks behind the 
 trees. We went again through the thickets and bushes of 
 the woods, to and fro, for full three hours without any 
 prospect of getting out, and that within a distance of not 
 over three-quarters of an hour. We struck a foot-path at 
 last which led us to Bohemia creek, directly opposite the 
 house which was being built. We descended in order to 
 wade over it, the bottom appearing to be hard on this side, 
 and promising a good passage ; but when we were in the 
 middle of it, we sank up to our knees in the mud. When 
 we were over we went into the quaker's hut, who warmed 
 up some beans, and set them before us with maize bread. 
 Not to leave him like an empty calabash, we gave him an 
 English shilling for leading us astray, and other things. 
 We had now a fine broad cart road to follow, eight miles 
 long, which would lead us to Apoqucmene, as it did, and 
 where we arrived about noon. They are most all Dutch 
 who live here, and we were again among the right kind of 
 people, with whom we could at least obtain what was right. 
 We stepped into a house and were welcome. Some food 
 was immediately set before us to eat, and among other 
 things butter, cheese, and rye bread which was fresh and 
 so delicious that my companion said it was to him like 
 sweet cake. We left there after we had taken dinner, a 
 boy leading us upon the way as far as a long wooden 
 bridge or dam over a meadow and creek, and proceeded on 
 to Casparus Hermans's, the brother of Ephraim, about six 
 
RETURN TO NEWCASTLE. 
 
 213 
 
 miles from there, where we arrived at three o'clock, but 
 again found him absent from home. As the court was sit- 
 ting at Newcastle he had to be there as one of its members. 
 "We were, however, welcomed by his wife. Her name was 
 Susanna, and his, Casparus or Jasper ; which led my 
 thoughts further, communing with God in his love, who 
 makes the past as well as the future to be present, and 
 who consumes the present in him with the future and the 
 past, as it proceeds from him with all our sensations. We 
 passed the night there, and had to sleep with a quaker who 
 was going next day to Maryland. 
 
 14th, Thursday. While we were waiting for Casparus, 
 we embraced the opportunity to examine his place again, 
 which pleased us in all respects, and was objectionable 
 only because it lay on the road, and was therefore resorted 
 to by every one, and especially by these miserable quakers. 
 He returned home in the afternoon, and was glad to find 
 us. We spoke to him in relation to a certain tract of land 
 which we wished to look at, and Ephraim and his father 
 had told us of ; and when we heard what it was, it was a 
 part of Bohemia, which we had already tolerably well 
 looked at on our way to Maryland, being that which lies 
 on the creeks and river, and which, on our return and 
 twice losing the way, lay higher up in the woods ; but we 
 reserved the privilege in case we should winter on the 
 South river, of riding over it thoroughly on horseback, 
 with him and his brother Ephraim. 1 For the present, 
 time compelled us to see if we could not yet reach the 
 Manathans for the winter ; and we were the more induced 
 to the attempt because a servant of Ephraim had arrived 
 this evening by water in a boat, and would be ready to 
 return with it to Newcastle early in the morning. We 
 therefore excused ourselves and let the subject rest. We 
 
 1 It was upon the piece of land here alluded to that the colony of the 
 Lahadists was afterwards planted. 
 
214 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 heard here that his father Augustine Hermans was very 
 sick and at the point of death, and that Miss Margaret had 
 gone there to attend upon him in that condition. 
 
 ISthf Friday. It was flood tide early this morning, and 
 our servant slept a little too long, for it was not far from high 
 water when he appeared. We hurried, however, into the 
 hoat and pushed on as hard as we could, hut the flood stopped 
 running, when we were about half way. We continued 
 on rowing, and as the day advanced we caught a favorable 
 wind from the west and spread the sail. The wind'gradu- 
 ally increasing brought us to Newcastle about eight o'clock 
 among our kind friends again, where we were welcome 
 anew. We were hardly ashore before the wind, changing 
 from the west to the northwest, brought with it such a 
 storm and rain that, if we had still been on the water, we 
 would have been in great peril, and if we had been at 
 Casparus's we would not have been able to proceed in 
 such weather. We here again, so clearly perceived the 
 providence of the Lord over us, that our hearts were con- 
 strained to ascend to him, and praise him for what he is and 
 does, especially towards his children. As we have con- 
 fined ourselves quite strictly to the account of our journey, 
 we deem it serviceable to make some observations upon 
 some general matters concerning Maryland, in addition to 
 what we have before remarked. 
 
 As regards its first discoverer and possessor, that was 
 one Lord Baltimore, an English nobleman, in the time of 
 Queen Maria. Having come from Newfoundland along 
 the coast of North America, he arrived in the great bay of 
 Virginia, up which he sailed to its uppermost parts, and 
 found this fine country which he named Maryland after 
 his queen. Returning to England he obtained a charter 
 of the northerly parts of America, inexclusively , although 
 the Hollanders had discovered and began to settle New 
 Netherland. With this he came back to America and 
 
MARYLAND. TOBACCO. SERVITUDE. 
 
 215 
 
 took possession of his Maryland, where at present his son, 
 as governor, resides. 1 
 
 Since the time of Queen Elizabeth, settlers have pre- 
 ferred the lowest parts of the great bay and the large rivers 
 which empty into it, either on account of proximity to the 
 sea, and the convenience of the streams, or because the 
 uppermost country smacked somewhat of the one from 
 whom it derived its name and of its government. They 
 have named this lower country Virginia, out of regard to 
 Queen Elizabeth. It is the most populous, but not the 
 best land, and has a government distinct from that of Mary- 
 land. A governor arrived while we were there, to fill the 
 place made vacant by the death of his predecessor. 2 
 
 As to the present government of Maryland, it remains 
 firm upon the old footing, and is confined within the limits 
 
 1 Charles Calvert, was at this time both proprietor and governor of 
 Maryland. He came out first in 1662 as governor under his father Cecil- 
 ius, the first proprietor, upon whose death in 1675 he succeeded to the 
 title of Lord Baltimore, and the estates in this country. He went to Eng- 
 land upon the happening of this event , and returned in February, 1680, to 
 Maryland, where he continued in the administration of the government 
 personally until 1G84, when he again visited England. By the revolution 
 which soon after followed, the province was lost to the family, and was 
 not fully restored until 1715, when its heir had changed his religious faith 
 and adopted that of the established church of England. Cecilius and 
 Charles Calvert, Lords Baltimore, were Catholics. McMahon's History 
 of Maryland, 216, et seq. 
 
 2 Lord Culpepper came over as governor of Virginia, in 1679 or 
 1680, although he had been appointed some time previously. Sir William 
 Berkeley, whom he succeeded, and whose administration of the unequaled 
 duration of forty years, had terminated in a sea of blood, upon the sup- 
 pression of Bacon's rebellion, having been recalled, returned to England 
 in 1677, where he died shortly after his arrival there. Colonel Jeffries 
 discharged the duties of the place as lieutenant governor during a portion 
 of the interval until the arrival of Lord Culpepper ; but he also dying in 
 1678, the government devolved upon Sir H. Chickerly for the rest of the 
 period. Bark's History of Virginia, II, 203, 223. Chalmers says, Lord 
 Culpepper arrived here in May, 1680. Annals, I, 340. 
 
216 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 before mentioned. AH of Maryland that we have seen, is 
 highland, with few or no meadows, but possessing such a 
 rich and fertile soil, as persons living there assured me, 
 that they had raised tobacco off" the same piece of land lor 
 thirty consecutive years. The inhabitant* who are gene- 
 rally English, are mostly engaged in this production. It 
 is their chief staple, and the means with which they must 
 purchase every thing they require, which is brought to 
 them from other English possessions in Europe, Africa and 
 America. There is, nevertheless, sometimes a great want 
 of these necessaries, owing to the tobacco market being 
 low, or the shipments being prevented by some change of 
 affairs in some quarter, particularly in Europe, or to both 
 causes, as was the case at this time, when a great scarcity 
 of such articles existed there, as we saw. 80 large a 
 quantity of tobacco is raised in Maryland and Virginia, 
 that it is one of the greatest sources of revenue to the 
 crown by reason of the taxes which it yields. Servants 
 and negroes are employed in the culture of tobacco, who 
 are brought from other places to be sold to the highest 
 bidders, the servants for a term of years only, but the 
 negroes forever, and may be sold by their masters to other 
 planters as many times as their masters choose, that is, the 
 servants until their term is fulfilled, and the negroes for 
 life. These men, one with another, each make, when they 
 are able to work, from 2,500 pounds to 3,000 pounds, and 
 even 3,500 pounds of tobacco a year, and some of the mas- 
 ters and their wives who pass their lives here in wretched- 
 ness, do the same. The servants and negroes after they 
 have worn themselves down the whole day, and gone 
 home to rest, have yet to grind and pound the grain, 
 which is generally maize, for their masters and all their 
 families as well as themselves, and all the negroes, to eat. 
 Tobacco is the only production in which the planters employ 
 themselves, as if there were nothing else in the world to 
 
CORN BREAD AND HOMINY. MINISTERS. 217 
 
 plant but that, and while the land is capable of yielding all 
 the productions that can be raised anywhere, so far as the 
 climate of the place allows. As to articles of food, the 
 only bread they have is that made of Turkish wheat or 
 maize, and that is miserable. They plant this grain for 
 that purpose everywhere. It yields well, not a hundred, 
 but five or six hundred for one ; but it takes up much 
 space, as it is planted far apart like vines in France. The 
 corn, when it is to be used for men, has to be first soaked, 
 before it is ground or pounded, because the grains being 
 large and very hard, cannot be broken under the small 
 stones of their light hand-mills; and then it is left so 
 coarse it must be sifted. They take the finest for bread, 
 and the other for different kinds of groats, which, when it 
 is cooked, is called sapaen or homma. The meal intended 
 for bread is kneaded moist without leaven or yeast, salt or 
 grease, and generally comes out of the oven so that it will 
 hardly hold together, and so blue and moist that it is as 
 heavy as dough; yet the best of it when cut and roasted, 
 tastes almost like warm white bread, at least it seemed to 
 us so. This corn is also the only provender for their 
 horses, oxen, cows, hogs and fowls, which generally run in 
 the woods to get their food, but are fed a little of this morn- 
 ing and evening during the winter when there is little to 
 be had in the woods; though they are not fed too much, 
 for the wretchedness, if not cruelty, of such living, affects 
 both man and beast. This is said not without reason, for a 
 master having a sick servant, and there are many so, and 
 observing from his declining condition, he would finally 
 die, and that there was no probability of his enjoying any 
 more service from him, made him, sick and languishing as 
 he was, dig his own grave, in which he was laid a few days 
 afterwards, the others being too busy to dig it, having their 
 hands full in attending to the tobacco. 
 
 A few vegetables are planted, but they are of the coarsest 
 28 
 
218 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 kinds and arc cultivated in the coarsest manner, without 
 knowledge or care, and they are, therefore, not properly 
 raised, and do not amount to much as regards the pro- 
 duction, and still less as to their use. Some have begun to 
 plant orchards, which all bear very well, but are not 
 properly cultivated. The fruit is for the greater part 
 pressed, and makes good cider, of which the largest portion 
 becomes soured and spoiled through their ignorance or 
 negligence, either from not putting it into good casks, or 
 from not taking proper care of the liquor afterwards. 
 Sheep they have none, although they have what is requisite 
 for them if they chose. It is matter of conjecture whether 
 you will find any milk or butter even in summer; we 
 have not found any there at this season of the year. They 
 bestow all their time and care in producing tobacco; 
 each cask or hogshead, as they call it, of which pays two 
 English shillings on exportation, and on its arrival in Eng- 
 land, two pence a pound, besides the fees for weighing and 
 other expenses here, and freight and other charges beyond 
 sea. When, therefore, tobacco only brings four or five 
 pence, there is little or nothing left for the owner. 
 
 The lives of the planters in Maryland and Virginia are 
 very godless and profane. They listen neither to God nor 
 his commandments, and have neither church nor cloister. 
 Sometimes there is some one who is called a minister, who 
 does not as elsewhere, serve in one place, for in all Virginia 
 and Maryland there is not a city or a village — but travels 
 for profit, and for that purpose visits the plantations through 
 the country, and there addresses the people ; but I know of 
 no public assemblages being held in these places; you 
 hear often that these ministers are worse than anybody 
 else, yea, are an abomination. 
 
 When the ships arrive with goods, and especially with 
 liquors, such as wine and brandy, they attract everybody, 
 that is, masters, to them, who then indulge so abominably 
 
AN EXECUTION. THE HOEREKIL. 
 
 219 
 
 together, that they keep nothing for the rest of the 
 year, yea, do not go away as long as there is any left, or 
 bring any thing home with them which might be useful to 
 them in their subsequent necessities. It must, therefore, 
 go hard with the household, and it is a wonder if there be a 
 single drop left for the future. They squander so much in 
 this way, that they keep no tobacco to buy a shoe or a 
 stocking for their children which sometimes causes great 
 misery. While they take so little care for provisions, and 
 are otherwise so reckless, the Lord sometimes punishes 
 them with insects, flies and worms, or with intemperate 
 seasons, causing great famine, as happened a few years 
 ago in the time of the last Dutch war with the English, 
 when the Lord sent so many weevils (eenkorentjes) that all 
 their grain was eaten up as well as most all the other pro- 
 ductions of the field, by reason of which such a great famine 
 was caused that many persons died of starvation, and a 
 mother killed her own child and eat it, and then went to 
 her neighbors, calling upon them to come and see what she 
 had done, and showing them the remains of her child, 
 whereupon she was arrested and condemned to be hung. 
 When she sat or stood on the scaffold, she cried out to the 
 people, in the presence of the governor, that she was now 
 going to G-od, where she would render an account, and 
 would declare before him that what she had done she did 
 in the mere delirium of hunger, for which the governor 
 alone should bear the guilt ; inasmuch as this famine was 
 caused by the eenkorens, a visitation from God, because he, 
 the governor, undertook in the preceding summer, an expe- 
 dition against the Dutch, residing on the South river, who 
 maintained themselves in such a good posture of defense, 
 that he could accomplish but little; when he went to tbe 
 Hocre-kil on the west side of that river, not far from the 
 sea, where also he was not able to do much ; but as the 
 people subsisted there only by cultivating wheat, and had 
 
220 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 at tliiH time a line and abundant harvest in the fields — and 
 from Buch harvests the people of Maryland generally and 
 under hucIi circumstances as these particularly, were 
 fed — he set fire to it, and all their other fruits, whether of 
 the trees or the field; whereby he committed two great 
 sins at the same time, namely, against God and his good- 
 ness, and against his neighbors, the Dutch, who lost it, and 
 the English who needed it; and had caused more misery 
 to the English in his own country, than to the Dutch in the 
 enemy's country. This wretched woman protesting these 
 words substantially against the governor, before heaven 
 and in the hearing of every one, was then swung up. 1 
 
 In addition to what the tobacco itself pays on exporta- 
 tion, which produces a very large sum, every hundred 
 acres of land, whether cultivated or not, has to pay one 
 hundred pounds of tobacco a year, and every person 
 between sixteen and sixty years of age must pay three 
 shillings a year. All animals are free of taxation, and so 
 are all productions except tobacco. 
 
 It remains to be mentioned that those persons who pro- 
 
 1 The Hoerekil, in English Whore creek, is on the west side of Delaware 
 bay, about three miles inside of Cape Henlopen. This distinctive name 
 first appears in the Vtrtoogh van Nieu Keckrlant, written in 1G49 {N. T. 
 Uixtovinii ' Sin-i, ti/ Colkctionx, second series, [1,281). It would seem to have 
 been first applied in the preceding year from a circumstance which is 
 related in N. T. Colonial History, III, 342. This spot was first attempted 
 to be settled by the Dutch in 1631, when a colony of thirty-four persons 
 sent out by GodyD, Van Rensselaer, Bloemart, De Laet,and David Pieter- 
 sen De Vries as patroons, was landed there, but was a few months after- 
 wards in the same year destroyed, and the colonists all murdered by the 
 Indians. It then, in common with the whole territory, on both sides of 
 the mouth of Delaware bay, for thirty-two miles up from the sea, bore the 
 name of Swanendael. It remained unsettled until 1659, when it was pur- 
 chased of the Indians a second time by the Dutch West India Company, and 
 was by the company transferred Immediately to the city of Amsterdam, 
 although it had been purchased of the Indians by Godyn and others in 
 1629, and by them assigned to the West India Company in 1535. Hazard?* 
 Anruds of Pennsylvania, 23, 39, 255-7. A colony of Mennonists, directed 
 
JESUITS. DOMINE TESSEMAKER. 
 
 221 
 
 fess the Roman Catholic religion, have great, indeed, all 
 freedom in Maryland, because the governor makes pro- 
 fession of that faith, and consequently there are priests and 
 other ecclesiastics who travel and disperse themselves 
 everywhere, and neglect nothing which serves for their 
 profit and purpose. The priests of Canada take care of 
 this region, and hold correspondence with those here, as is 
 supposed, as well as with those who reside among the 
 Indians. It is said there is not an Indian fort between 
 Canada and Maryland, where there is not a Jesuit who 
 teaches and advises the Indians, who begin to listen to them 
 too much ; so much so, that some people in Virginia and 
 Maryland as well as in New Netherland, have been appre- 
 hensive lest there might be an outbreak, hearing what has 
 happened in Europe, as well as among their neighbors at 
 Boston ; but they hope the result of the troubles there will 
 determine many things elsewhere. The Lord grant a happy 
 issue there and here, as well as in other parts of the world, 
 for the help of his own elect, and the glory of his name. 
 We will now leave Maryland, and come back to New 
 
 by Peter Cornelisen Plocklioy, left Holland, and established itself at the 
 Hoerekil in 1662, under the authority of the city of Amsterdam. This 
 new colony was plundered by the English on the conquest of New Neth- 
 erland in 1664. 
 
 The transaction to which the journalist refers happened eight years 
 afterwards. It was perpetrated by the proprietor of Maryland in vindica- 
 tion of his title, though it seems to have been ruthlessly done, and 
 without justification. It occurred in the summer of 1672, when Lord 
 Baltimore sent an expedition to the Hoerekil, consisting of sixty men at 
 first, but afterwards reduced to thirty men and horse, under one Jones, 
 who, " in derision and contempt of the Duke's authority, bound the magis- 
 trates and inhabitants, despitefully treated them, sifted and plundered 
 them of their goods, and when it was demanded by what authority he 
 acted, answered in no other language but a cocked pistol to his breast, 
 which if it had spoken, had forever silenced him." Hazard's Annals, 398. 
 N. T. Colonial Manuscripts, XX, 37. 
 
 The name of the town of Hoerekil was changed to Deal in 1680, and 
 subsequently to Lewes, and is now Lewis or Lewiston. 
 
222 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 Castle (Sandhock), on the South river, where, in the house of 
 our friend Ephraim Hermans, the Lord had brought us, and 
 our friends received and lodged us with affectionate hearts. 
 
 ldth, Saturday. Mr. Moll, who is the president [of the 
 court] and one of the principal men in the South [river,] 
 having finished his business in the court which was now 
 ended, had intended to ride this morning to a plantation 
 which he had recently purchased on Christina kil, and 
 would have been pleased to have had us accompany him, 
 and look at the lands about there, which he said were very 
 good ; but as the hard and rainy weather of yesterday had 
 not yet cleared up, he put off the journey until Monday, in 
 hopes he would then have our company, when he would 
 provide a horse for each of us, and Ephraim would also go 
 with us. Meanwhile we went to see whether there would 
 be any means of returning to the Manatlmns notwithstand- 
 ing the ice, either by land or sea. If we should return by 
 water, we would be able to see the lower parts of this river, 
 the Hoere-kil and others; but no opportunity presented 
 itself, because it was so late in the year, there being no navi- 
 gating in consequence of every one being afraid of the ice. 
 
 11th, Sunday. We had an opportunity to-day to hear 
 Domine Tessemaker, which we did, but never heard worse 
 preaching, and I, therefore, had little desire to go again in 
 the afternoon, though I was misled by the ringing of the bell. 
 He is a man who wishes to effect some etablissement or 
 reform here, but he will not accomplish much in that 
 respect, as he not only has no grace therefor, but there 
 seems to be something in his life which will hereafter mani- 
 fest itself more. For the present we can say with truth 
 that he is a perfect worldling. 1 It seems that in these 
 
 1 Domine Peter Tessemaker remained in charge of the church at New 
 Castle until 1682, when he accepted a call to Schenectady, where he fell a 
 victim to the massacre perpetrated by the French and Indians in February, 
 1CJ0. His head was cloven open, and his body burnt to the shoulder blades. 
 
EXCURSION TO CHRISTINA CREEK. 
 
 223 
 
 spiritually, as well as physically, waste places, there is never- 
 theless, a craving of the people to accept any thing that 
 bears even the name of food, in order to content rather 
 than satisfy themselves therewith. Nevertheless the Lord 
 will take pity upon these his lands, as we hope, for it 
 appears indeed that the seed of the elect is here, especially 
 among those of European descent. 
 
 18^A, Monday. We four, namely, Mr. Moll, Ephraim, my 
 comrade and myself, after we had breakfasted, started about 
 nine o'clock, on horseback, from New Castle for Christina 
 kil. "We obseiwed the land through which we rode was 
 sometimes only common soil, until we reached a plantation 
 which Mr. Moll and Ephraim owned together, lying on a 
 branch of that creek, and which was a good piece of land. 
 Ephraim having finished the business for which he had come 
 here, of having planks sawed for boarding a new clap-board 
 house he had built, left us and rode back to New Castle, 
 and we continued on after we had looked at a grist-mill 
 which the Swedes had constructed upon one of the branches 
 of the creek, a considerable distance along another of them. 
 We discovered here and there pieces of good land, but 
 they were not large, and were along the creek. The 
 greater portion of the country was only common land. 
 Evening coming on, we rode back to the plantation of a 
 Mr. Man, lying upon a neck of land called Cheese-and-bread 
 (Caes-en-broot) island, which is a good piece of ground, and 
 up to which the creek is navigable for large boats or barks. 
 This man is a great friend of Mr. Moll. We were, there- 
 fore, very welcome, and slept there this night. 
 
 19th, Tuesday. After breakfast we rode out in company 
 with Mr. Man, to look at several pieces of land which they 
 very highly recommended to us, but it was because, as they 
 said, they wished to have good neighbors, though some- 
 times neighbors did not amount to much. It was now in 
 the afternoon, and we rode towards home, over a plain 
 
224 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 where the deer ran out of the road in herds. Coming to 
 the large creek, which is properly called Christina kil, we 
 found Mr. Moll had not correctly calculated the tide, for he 
 supposed it would he low water or thereabout*, whereas 
 the water was so high that if was not advisable to ride 
 through it with horses, and we would have to wait until 
 the water had fallen sufficiently for that purpose. While 
 we were waiting, and it began to get towards evening, an 
 Indian came on the opposite side of the creek, who knew 
 Mr. Moll, ;iih1 lived near there at that time, and had per- 
 haps heard us speak. He said that we would have to wait 
 there too long; hut if we would ride a little lower down, 
 he had a canoe in which he would carry us over, and we 
 might swim the horses across. We rode there at once, and 
 found him and his canoe. We unsaddled the horses, and 
 he swam them over one by one, being in the canoe and 
 holding them by the bridle. When we were over, we quickly 
 saddled them and rode them as fast as they could run, so 
 that they might not be cold and benumbed. It was entirely 
 dark, and we remarked to each other the providence of the 
 Lord in this Indian coming there; for otherwise we would 
 not have known how to find the way through the woods in 
 consequence of the great darkness. It was bad enough as 
 it was, on a path that both the horses and Mr. Moll were 
 acquainted with, for we could scarcely see each other some- 
 times. We reached New Castle happily about eight o'clock 
 in the evening, much rejoiced, and thanking Mr. Moll. 
 
 20th, Wednesday. While we were in Maryland, and were 
 crossing over the Sassafras river, we saw a small English 
 ship lying there, which they told us would leave about 
 the English Christmas. We now learned from Mr. Moll, 
 that he was going to write by her, and was willing if we 
 wrote, to allow our letters go to London under cover of 
 his; and also that he should soon go to Maryland to at- 
 tend the court now about to be held there. We deter- 
 
AN ENTAILED ESTATE. 
 
 225 
 
 mined, therefore, not to permit the opportunity to pass by 
 of writing home. 
 
 21st, Thursday. We finished our letters to-day. We 
 perceived it would be in vain to wait for a chance to go to 
 the Manathans by sea, and there would be no opportunity 
 to go up the river. "We, therefore, finally concluded to 
 hire a'canoe and a person to take us up the river; and ac- 
 cordingly agreed with one Jan Boeyer, for fifty guilders in 
 zeewan, and a dollar for the canoe a day, to leave the next 
 day if it were possible. Whereupon, Ephraim and his wife, 
 who had done their best herein, as well as other friends, 
 set about writing letters for us to take to the Manathans. 
 Meantime, Ephraim received news that his father was near 
 his end, and had to be handled by one or two men to turn 
 him in bed, and that he desired once more to speak to 
 him. 
 
 22<i, Friday. It had frozen some this morning, and Jan 
 Boeyer manifested little disposition to go up the river, 
 declaring that with such a frost as this, the river above 
 was all frozen up; and though there was no probability 
 of it, we had to wait. Ephraim and Mr. Moll, left together 
 for Maryland to see Ephraim' s father, who wanted to speak 
 to him, as we heard, in relation to the land or manor 
 which he possessed there ; for while he had given portions 
 to all his other children, namely, one son and three daugh- 
 ters, he had made Ephraim, his oldest son, heir of his rank 
 and manor, according to the English law, asj^s de commys, 
 that is, Ephraim could enjoy the property during his life, 
 and hire or sell it for that period, but upon his death, it 
 must go to his oldest son, and so descend from heir to heir. 
 Mr. Moll was the witness of this, and had the papers in his 
 care. It seemed that the father wished to make some 
 change because we had been there, and he had offered us 
 a part of the land. We, therefore, think we will hear what 
 he shall have done in the matter. 
 
 29 
 
226 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 Although it had frozen hard, yet when the sun rose high 
 ahout nine o'clock, it was ordinarily pleasant and handy 
 weather, hut there was no decision on the part of our 
 skipper to leave. In the meantime we had the house with 
 Ephraim's wife alone, and, therefore, more freedom and 
 opportunity to speak to her of God, and godly things, 
 which she well received. We expect something good 
 from her as well as from Ephraim. 
 
 28d, Saturday. The weather was milder, and there was 
 some fog which cleared away as the sun rose. We went 
 to see Jan Boeyer again, hut he had no intention to make 
 the journey. We heard it was not so much on account of 
 the ice, as of the small-pox, which prevailed very much up 
 the river, and which he had never had. There was no use 
 of striving with him, and we determined, therefore, to hire 
 soinehody else, if we could find any person. Mr. Peter 
 Aldrix made inquiry for us, but to no purpose, and we 
 had to wait and depend upon God's providence. We 
 heard, however, of some people who had arrived in a 
 canoe from Christina kil, and that even in that creek there 
 was no ice yet, or up the river. 
 
 2-ith, Sunday. Domine Tessemaker being at Apoque- 
 mene there was no preaching to-day at Kew Castle but 
 prelecting. We went, however, to the church, in order 
 not to give offense. Much of the reading we could not 
 bear, but we hope others were more edified than we ex- 
 pected to be. 
 
 It was very fine weather and it annoyed us that we had 
 to wait so. This evening there arrived a canoe with 
 Swedes, who had come from half way below the falls, and 
 of whom we inquired whether there were any ice up the 
 river. They said there was not, and they were going 
 back the next day. We endeavored to make an agree- 
 ment with them to cany us, but they asked entirely too 
 much, namely, an anker of rum, which would amount to 
 
DESCRIPTION 0F NEW CASTLE. 
 
 227 
 
 about 120 guilders iu zeewan ; whereupon we rebuked 
 them for their exorbitancy. The Swedes and Fins, particu- 
 larly, have this fault, and generally towards strangers ; but 
 as it seemed to me they had drank a little too much, we 
 let the matter rest in the hope they would talk more 
 reasonably to-morrow. 
 
 25th, Monday. The weather being good, we spoke again 
 to our Swedes, but they continued obstinate ; and also to 
 Jan Boeyer, but nothing could be done with him either. 
 While we were standing on the shore v talking with them 
 about leaving, I saw coming down the river a boat which 
 looked very much like that of the quaker of Upland, as 
 indeed it was. He landed at New Castle and was going to 
 Ephraim's house, where he had some business to transact, 
 intending to leave the next day. "We asked him if he 
 was willing to take us with him, and he said, he would 
 do so with pleasure. We were rejoiced, observing the 
 providence of the Lord who took such fatherly care of 
 us. There stood Jan Boeyer and the Swedes cheated by 
 their own covetousness. Robert Wade and his wife lodged 
 at Ephraim's, which assured us our journey would be com- 
 menced the next day. 
 
 26th, Tuesday. All the letters having been collected to- 
 gether, which we were to take with us and deliver, and 
 the quaker having finished his business, we breakfasted 
 together, and courteously took leave of all our acquaint- 
 ances ; but especially with some love, of Madam Ephraim, 
 named Elizabeth van Rodcnburgh. She had shown us much 
 kindness, and given us good hope that the Lord will not 
 forget her therein. 
 
 We will observe before leaving Sand-hoek, that it has 
 always been the principal place on the South river, as well 
 in the time of the English as of the Dutch. It is now 
 called New Castle by the English. It is situated on the 
 west side of the river upon a point which extends out with 
 
228 
 
 JOURNEY TO TITE DELAWARE. 
 
 a sandy beach, affording a good lauding place, better than 
 is to be found elsewhere on that account. It lies a little 
 above the bay where the river bends and runs south from 
 there, so that you can see down the river southerly, the 
 greater portion of it, which presents a beautiful view in 
 perspective, and enables you to see from a distance the 
 ships which come out of the great bay and sail up the 
 river. Formerly all ships were accustomed to anchor 
 here, for the purpose of paying duties or obtaining per- 
 mits, and to unload when the good- were carried away by 
 water in boats or barks, or by land in carts.. It was 
 much larger and more populous at that time, and had a 
 small fort called Nassau ; hut since the country has be- 
 longed to the Knglish, ships may no longer come here, or 
 they must first declare and unload their cargoes at New 
 York, which has caused this little place to fall off very 
 much, and even retarded the settlement of plantations. 
 What remains of it consists of about fifty houses, most all 
 of wood. The fort is demolished, but there is a good 
 block-house, having some small cannon, erected in the 
 middle of the town, and sufficient to resist the Indians or 
 an incursion of Christians ; but it could not hold out long. 
 This town is the capital of justicp, where the high court 
 of the South river is held, having three other courts subor- 
 dinate to it, from which appeals lie to it, as they do from 
 it to Xew York, and from Xew York to England. These 
 three minor courts are established, one at Salem, a small 
 village of quakers newly commenced on the east side of 
 the river not far from Xew Castle ; another is at Upland, 
 on the west side above Xew Castle, a Swedish village, and 
 the third is at Burlington, a new quaker village on the 
 east side of the river above Xew Castle. Xew Castle is about 
 eighty miles from the falls, and the same distance from 
 the mouth of the river or the sea. The water in the river 
 at Xew Castle, at ordinary flood tide is fresh, but when 
 
THE PRINCIPAL INHABITANTS. 
 
 229 
 
 it is high spring tide, or the wind blows hard from the 
 south or southeast, it is brackish, and if the wind continues 
 long, or it is hard weather it becomes a little saltish. 
 With a new or full moon it makes high water at New Castle 
 at five o'clock. The principal persons whom we have 
 seen are Mr. Moll and his wife, Ephraim Hermans and his 
 wife, Peter Aldrix and his wife, and Domine Tessemaker. 
 
 As regards Mr. Moll, he lived in his youth at Amster- 
 dam, in order to learn business. He afterwards went to 
 Bristol, in England, where he carried on a reasonably large 
 business which he had begun to do at Amsterdam. In the 
 war between England and Holland, he lost so much that he 
 failed, or made an agreement with his creditors. He, there- 
 fore, immigrated to this country, and after trading in Vir- 
 ginia and Maryland some time, came to New Castle to live, 
 where he has two or three plantations, upon which he 
 raises tobacco, more for the purpose of paying his creditors, 
 as he himself informed me, than because he seeks this 
 manner of gain and life, intending, as soon as he can 
 release himself, to go and live upon the land, and support 
 himself by what Cod may be pleased to give him. 1 Touch- 
 ing the hope of grace discoverable in him it is very slight, 
 although he has listened with attention to all we have said 
 to him, requesting us to continue, and that he might be 
 favored with a letter from us on the subject, or some books 
 such as we might deem necessary, and willing, with a full 
 heart, to do us every service in his power in these quarters 
 or elsewhere, as he had done many, and endeavored to do 
 still more. The Lord will do for him as it pleases him. 
 
 The wife of Mr. Moll is an English woman, a pious 
 independent. When he married her, she lived in a large 
 house where many persons dwelt together, separate from 
 all other assemblies and the attachments of the world, seek- 
 
 See note on page 180, ante. 
 
230 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 ing nothing except to serve God in peace and uprightness, 
 and having their own preacher and other ministers. I>ut 
 with all this she remains a great rmi.iitl'inc, as to which we 
 have spoken to her. They have only one son. 
 
 Ephraim Hermans is the oldest child of Augustine Her- 
 mans, there being two hrothers and three sisters, one of 
 whom lives now at Amsterdam. They are all of a Dutch 
 mother, after whose death their father married an English 
 woman, who is the most artful and despicable creature that 
 can he found. He is a very godless person, and his wife, 
 hy her wickedness, has compelled all these children to leave 
 their father's house and live elsewhere. 1 Ephraim, the 
 oldest, having gone into business, settled at New Castle, 
 his oldest sister keeping house for him. He had for a long 
 time sought in marriage at New York, a daughter of the 
 
 •Augustine Hermans, or Jlecrmans, called also Ilarman, was a Bohe- 
 mian by birth, hut came from Holland to New Amsterdam inorbefore 
 1047, in winch year he was appointed by the director and council of New 
 Netherland, one of the Nine .Men, a body of citi/.i ns selected to assist t lie 
 government by their counsel and advice. He came over to this country as 
 a clerk to John and Charles Gabry, of Amsterdam. He was sent, in com- 
 pany with Resolved Waldron, by the Dutch governor, to the governor 
 of .Maryland, to confer in relation to the claim of title of the proprietor of 
 Maryland to the South river. This no doubt led to his subsequent settle- 
 ment on Bohemia river, so named by him, in that province. He seems to 
 have been a surveyor and draughtsman. In addition to the map of Mary- 
 land, stated b}' our journal to have been made by him, which seems to have 
 been the consideration for the grant of Bohemia manor, he made a sketch 
 of the city of New Amsterdam, which was engraved on Nicolas Jan 
 Visscher's map Novi BeUjii Noraque Anglia nee non parti* Virginia, pub- 
 lished in 1050-0, and also on a reduced scale from Visscher's map on the 
 map prefixed to the second edition of VanderdonK 's Description of New 
 Netherland. His first wife was Janneken Verlett of Utrecht, whom he 
 married at New Amsterdam, December 10, 1050, and by whom he had 
 children: 1, Ephraim George, baptized September 1, 1652; 2, Casparus, 
 baptized July 2,1056 ; 3, Anna Margaretta, baptized March 10, 1058; Judith, 
 baptized May 9, 1000, and Francina, baptized March 12, 1002. New York 
 Manual 1803, 723. Brodhead, 475, 501, 021, 606. Aster's List of Maps and 
 Charts of New Netherland, 12, 21. 
 
EPHRAIM HERMANS AND HIS WIPE. 231 
 
 late governor of the island of Curacoa, in the Carihhean 
 sea, belonging to the Dutch West India Company, whose 
 name was Johan van Bodenburgh. 1 She lived with her 
 mother on the Mcmhatan, who, after the death of her hus- 
 band, Rodenbm^gh, married one Joannes van Burgh, by whom 
 she had several children. 2 Her daughter, Elizabeth van 
 Rodenburgh, being of a quiet turn of mind, and quite 
 sickly, had great inclination to remain single. Ephraim, 
 however, finally succeeded in his suit, and married her at 
 New York. 3 He brought her with him to 'New Castle on 
 the South river, and we accompanied them on the journey. 
 Ephraim had been a bad, artful fellow in his youth, and 
 lived in all godless ways, but the Lord seized his heart, 
 whereby he began to repent, and saw that he mu^t live 
 otherwise, the'Lord compelling him. He found, however, 
 no ground or strength, but having a good conception of 
 spiritual matters or religion, as far as could be the case in 
 such a man, he saw nothing but untruth, falsehood and 
 deception in all that was done in relation to God and godly 
 things, and great hypocrisy in the best persons with whom 
 he was acquainted. Convinced of this, and seeing no 
 better result, he remained in suspense, although he pro- 
 fessed the doctrines of the reformed, and was a member 
 of their church. Seeing our life, and hearing us speak, 
 he has begun to see the difference, and discover the truth 
 received in the heart. He has examined himself in several 
 things, and corrected them, and was disposed to do more, 
 
 1 According to the Cara<;oa papers at Albany, Lucas Rodenburgh was 
 appointed provisional director of Curacoa August 22, 1644. He was suc- 
 ceeded, probably on his death, by Mr. Beek in December, 1655. O'Calla- 
 ghan's Calendar of Dutch Manuscripts, 329, 330. N. Y. Colonial History, II, 
 46. 
 
 a See Calendar of Butch Manuscripts, 331. 
 
 s The bans of this marriage were published 3d September, 1677. New 
 York Manual, 1862, 593. 
 
232 
 
 •JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 as we had persuaded him. May the Lord bestow upon 
 him his true grace, who puts it in our hearts to heseech 
 this for him with confidence. vVe commit all to him. 1 
 
 I lis wife, Elizabeth van Rodeuhurgh, has the quietest 
 disposition we have ohserved in America. She is politely 
 educated. She has had through her entire youth a sleep- 
 ing sickness of which she seems now to be free. She 
 has withdrawn herself much from the idle company of 
 youth, seeking God in quiet and solitude. She professes 
 the reformed religion, is a member of that church, and 
 searches for the truth which she has found nowhere except 
 in the word and preaching, which she, therefore, much 
 attended upon and loved, but which never satisfied her, as 
 she felt a want and yearning after something more. She 
 was so pleased at our being near her, and, lodged at her 
 house, she could not abstain from frequently declaring so, 
 receiving all that we said to her with gratitude, desiring 
 always to be near us ; and following the example of her 
 husband, he corrected many things, with the hope and 
 promise of persevering if the Lord would be pleased so to. 
 give her grace. \Ve were indeed comforted with these two 
 persons, who have done much for us out of sincere love. 
 The Lord pities them, and will keep his promise to this 
 house. 
 
 Margaret Hermans possesses a good disposition, although 
 a little wild, according to the nature of the country. She 
 
 1 In addition to the clerkship of the courts at New Castle and Upland, 
 Ephraini Hermans filled other places of trust and confidence on the Dela- 
 ware. Like his father he was a surveyor. He was clerk of permits, 
 entries, and clearings of customs on the Delaware, and receiver of quit- 
 rents on that river within the jurisdiction of the courts above mentioned. 
 In 1GT9, he was sent to New York in company with Mr. John Moll and 
 Captain Cautwell by the justices at New Castle to represent certain 
 grievances to the governor. He had four children at least, as we find that 
 number baptized in the church at New York, namely, Augustine, Augus- 
 tina, Samuel and Ephraim. Breciate, Penn vs. Calvert. Hazard's Annals. 
 N. T. Manual, 1863. 
 
RETURNING UP THE RIVER. 
 
 233 
 
 complained that she was like a wild and desolate vine, 
 trained up in a wild and desolate country ; that she had 
 always felt an inclination to know more of -God quietly, 
 and to serve him, hoping the Lord would he merciful to 
 her. She treated us with great affection, and received 
 thankfully and acceptahly what we said to her. "We did 
 not see her on our return, as she had gone to attend upon 
 her father ; and we, therefore, have not conversed much 
 with her. The Lord will do with her" as it pleases him. 
 
 Peter Aldrix came from Groningen to this country in 
 the year '63 or '64, for the Lord Burgomasters of Am- 
 sterdam, as chief of their cargoes and storehouse in respect 
 of the trade with the Indians, and thus was at the head of 
 their office on the South river. Whether he had been in 
 this country before or not, I do not know. 1 He did not 
 occupy his place long, for the English shortly afterwards 
 took the country and deprived him of all he had ; yet he 
 has remained here, gaining his livelihood by various 
 means as well as he can, and seems to have gradually suc- 
 ceeded. He had a ketch made for the purpose of trad- 
 ing to the [West India] Islands, and elsewhere. He has a 
 large family of children, and others. He sought to render 
 us as much service as he could, but for the things of grace 
 he is not inclined. He is a mundane, but is not vicious. 
 The Lord can use him as it pleases him. 
 
 These are the persons at New Castle with whom we have 
 some acquaintance, and such the hope they have given us. 
 We have promised them to continue it, and write to them, 
 and send them such books as we might deem necessary 
 for them. 
 
 Returning now to our boat, it left about ten o'clock for 
 a place a little higher up the river where they had to take 
 in some wheat, and where we were to go on foot, with the 
 
 1 See note on page 190, ante. 
 
 30 
 
2:!4 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 quaker's wife. We reached it about noon, and found the 
 boat laden, and lying high up on the land, so that we had 
 to wait until the tide was half flood. We saw there a 
 piece of meadow or marsh, which a Dutch woman had 
 dyked in, and which they assured us had yielded an hun- 
 dred for one, of wheat, notwithstanding the hogs had done 
 it great damage. The boat getting afloat, we left about 
 three o'clock, and moved up with the tide. The weather 
 was pleasant and still, with a slight breeze sometimes from 
 the west, of which we availed ourselves; but it did not 
 continue long, and we had to rely upon our oars. We 
 arrived at Upland about seven o'clock in the evening, and 
 it was there only half flood, so much later does the tide 
 make there than at New Castle. The quaker received us 
 kindly, gave us supper, and counseled with us as to how 
 we should proceed further. We were 6hown a better 
 place to sleep than we had when we were here before. 
 
 27tlt, Wednesday. It rained some during the night and it 
 was very misty early in the morning. Before the tide 
 served to leave, we agreed with this man who had brought 
 us up, to send us in his boat to Burlington, with two boys 
 to manage it, paying him twenty guilders for the boat, and 
 three guilders a day to each of the boys for three days, 
 amounting in the whole to thirty-eight guilders; but one 
 of the boys wishing too much, he determined to take us up 
 himself. A good wind coming out of the south, we 
 breakfasted and dined in one meal, and left about ten 
 o'clock, with a favorable wind and tide, though at times 
 the wind was quite sharp. We sailed by Tinakonk again, 
 but did not land there. It began at noon to rain very hard, 
 and continued so the whole day, and also blew quite hard. 
 We ran aground on the lee shore upon a very shallow and 
 muddy place, from which we got off with difficulty. On 
 account of this and other accidents, if we had had the boys 
 it would have been bad for us. We arrived at Wykakoe, a 
 
PETER ALDRICH'S ISLAND. 235 
 
 Swedish village on the west side of the river, in the even- 
 ing at dusk, where we went, all wet, into the house of one 
 Otto, who had three children lying sick with the small-pox. 
 We dried ourselves here partly. He gave us supper and 
 took us to sleep all together in a warm stove room, which 
 they use to dry their malt in and other articles. It was 
 very warm there, and our clothes in the morning were 
 entirely dry. 
 
 28th, Thursday. It was flood at daylight when we left, but 
 had not gone far before I discovered I had left one of my 
 gloves behind, whereupon we ran the boat ashore, and I 
 went back and found it. My comrade was more unfortu- 
 nate, for after we had proceeded full two hours, and when 
 we were going to breakfast on what our female friend had 
 given us, he found he had left his knife and fork ; but we 
 had gone too far to lose the time to go back for them. 
 The weather was foggy, but when the sun had risen a little, 
 it cleared away and became pleasant and calm. We there- 
 fore advanced rapidly, rowing with the tide, and reached 
 Takany of which we have before spoken, about ten o'clock, 
 and where we landed a person who had come up with us. 
 We continued on, and as the tide just commenced rising 
 there we had a constant flood tide with us to Burlington, 
 where we arrived about two o'clock. We were put ashore 
 on an island of Peter Aldrix who had given us a letter of 
 recommendation to a person living there, and working for 
 him. We paid Robert Wade who and his wife are the 
 best quakers we have found. They have always treated 
 us kindly. He went immediately over to Burlington 
 where he did not stop long, and took the ebb tide and 
 rowed with it down the river. It was not bigh tide for 
 an hour and a half after we arrived at the island, and there 
 is, therefore, a difference of eleven hours or more in the 
 same tide from New Castle. 
 
 The man who lived on this island was named Barent, 
 
236 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 and came from Groningcn. He was at a loss to know 
 how to get us on farther. Horses, absolutely, lie could not 
 furnish us; and there was no Indian about to act as a 
 guide, as they had all gone out hunting in the woods, and 
 none of them had been at his house for three weeks. To 
 accompany us himself to Adder kol or the Raritam, and re- 
 turn, could not be accomplished, in less than four days, 
 and he would have to leave his house meantime in charge 
 of an Indian woman from Virginia, who had left her hus- 
 band, an Englishman, and with two children, one of which 
 had the small-pox, was living with him; and she could 
 be of no use to any one, whether Indians or other persons 
 who might come there. "We were compelled again to wait 
 upon the providence of the Lord. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon a young Indian 
 arrived with whom we agreed to act as our guide, for a 
 <lufHels coat which would cost twenty-four guilders in 
 zeewant, that is, about five guilders in the money of Hol- 
 land ; but he had a fowling-piece with him which he de- 
 sired first to take and have repaired at Burlington, and 
 would then come back. He accordingly crossed over, but 
 we waited for him in vain, as he did not return. The 
 greatest difficulty with him was, that we could not speak 
 the Indian language, and he could not speak a word of 
 any thing else. He not coming, we asked Barent if he 
 would not undertake the task, which, after some debate, he 
 consented to do. He arranged his affairs accordingly, and 
 prepared himself by making a pair of shoes or foot-soles of 
 deer skin, which are very comfortable, and protect the 
 feet. That was done in half an hour. "We were to give 
 him thirty guilders in zeewant, with which he was satisfied. 
 
 29th, Friday. We breakfasted, and left about ten o'clock 
 in a canoe, which set us on the west side of the river, 
 along which a foot path runs a part of the way, in an east 
 northeast direction, and then through the woods north 
 
COURSE OF THE RIVER. 
 
 237 
 
 northeast. We followed this path until we came to a 
 plantation, newly begun by a quaker, where we rested and 
 refreshed ourselves. We agreed with this man, who came 
 in the house while we were there, that he should put us 
 over the river for three guilders in zeewant. 1 We crossed 
 over about one o'clock, and pursued a foot path along the 
 river, which led us to a cart road, and following that we 
 came to the new grist-mill at the falls, which, in conse- 
 quence of the great flow of water, stood in danger of being 
 washed away. 2 Crossing here, we began our journey in 
 the Lord's name, for there are no houses from this point 
 to Peskatteway, an English village on the Raritans. We 
 had now gone twelve or thirteen miles from Peter Aldrix's 
 island, and it was about two o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 We must here make some general observations in rela- 
 tion to the South river. The Dutch, who first discovered 
 and took possession of it, so named it, undoubtedly because 
 it empties into the sea in the most southerly part of New 
 Netherland, to wit, in latitude 39° north, being one de- 
 gree and twenty minutes, or more, further sotith, than the 
 mouth of the North river. It runs up from the sea north- 
 westerly, making a fine, large bay, much better than that 
 of the North river, or Godyn's bay. It is not only of 
 greater length, which is about forty miles, with a breadth 
 of six or seven miles ; but it has a fine bottom of sand, and 
 gravel reefs all along the banks. The water is purer up 
 above. From the inside or middle of the bay, its course 
 to the narrow part, or river is mostly south [north] or 
 bent gradually from northwest to north, with here and there 
 a small bay, and it continues running so, from twenty to 
 twenty-four miles, or more, to New Castle, where it bends 
 to the east to northeast, with several bays on both sides, to 
 Upland and Timkonk, a distance of twenty-four miles. At 
 
 1 This was at or near Bordentown. 
 1 At or near Trenton. 
 
238 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 Tinakonk, it runs about east or east northeast, but having 
 passed that island it bcars'off again, north to northeast; 
 also, with several bays to Wykakoc about twenty miles, and 
 continuing so to Takany, sixteen miles. From Takany 
 to Burlington, it runs again more easterly and east north- 
 east twenty miles, thence due east six miles, where there 
 is a round bay turning north to north northwest to the falls 
 four miles, so that from the falls to the sea coast it is 
 about eighty English miles, or twenty Dutch miles, from 
 New Castle each way. It has numerous fine navigable 
 creeks on both sides of it, which are like small rivers run- 
 ning far inland, but how far is not yet known ; nor is it 
 known how far the south river extends above the falls, as 
 they have not explored above them. This river is gene- 
 rally very clear. I do not know that there is any thing 
 above to be avoided, except occasionally a muddy point on 
 the margins. Heavy ships, drawing 10, 12 and 14 feet 
 water, go up the river as far as Burlington, and higher; 
 but in the great bend where it runs to the falls, it can be 
 navigated close to the falls by boats, drawing five and six 
 feet and more. The land on the east side is generally 
 lower than on the west, and is not so good. It continues 
 very flat, deep into the country, as you go far down. On 
 the west side the land is tolerably high, immediately off 
 from the river, and is generally good all the way down. 
 Both sides being low this river is better to navigate than 
 the North river, for that has very high banks, which being 
 frightfully steep and rocky, it is subject to great whirl- 
 winds and squalls, which, coming suddenly over the hills, 
 fall upon the river, which is no small inconvenience. The 
 water which comes over the falls is pure and clear, and is 
 quite blue, but running lower down, it gradually becomes 
 muddy, but is entirely clear again at Takany, and reasona- 
 bly so at Wikakoe ; further on it becomes thick, but it is 
 always good. As to the salubrity of the climate of which 
 
CLIMATE. SWEDISH SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 239 
 
 we did not say any thing when we spoke of Maryland, it 
 is certain that Virginia being the lowest on the sea, is 
 the most unhealthy where they [die] by thousands some- 
 times of the epidemical disease of the country. In Mary- 
 land, which lies higher up from the sea than Virginia, it is 
 more healthy, although it is subject to the epidemic. 
 Therefore, all those who come into the country, must 
 undergo this sickness without escape. Even the children, 
 who are born there, are not excepted, as those who live 
 there and have experienced it, told us when we were 
 there. And although their manner of life is the cause of 
 much irregularity in their health, there is, nevertheless, 
 something in the atmosphere which produces disease : but 
 this will become gradually better, as the country is mea- 
 surably populated, and thereby becomes more cleared, as 
 experience shows is true of all the lands in America, 
 which have been unhealthy. The uppermost parts of 
 Maryland are more healthy than those lowest down. The 
 South river is more salubrious than Maryland, as it lies 
 higher. It partakes, however, somewhat of the nature of 
 # Maryland, especially below, but with great difference, 
 which every year increases. The higher the more healthy; 
 although at the Hocrekil which is near the sea, it is as healthy 
 as anywhere, because it is well populated. In the upper 
 part of the river, it is as healthy as it can be anywhere, 
 and for myself, I believe that New Netherland has not a 
 place in it which is not healthier than any part of old 
 Netherlands in the United Provinces, and is becoming 
 every day more salubrious, especially if they live here 
 as they do in Holland. The North river is entirely 
 healthy, for it lies much higher up than the South 
 river, that is further to the north, and although it is 
 nearer the sea than where they live in Maryland and on 
 the South river, it is, nevertheless, more wholesome, which 
 shows that it is not the air of the sea which causes the 
 
240 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 insalubrity, but other reasons which I will not consider 
 at present. 
 
 As the Hollanders were the first discoverers of this river, 
 they were also the first residents, settling themselves down 
 in small numbers at the Hoerekil, and thereabouts, and at 
 Santhocck, though the most people and the capital of the coun- 
 try were at the Manhatans, under the rule and authority of 
 the West India Company. The Indians killed many of them 
 because they did not live well with them, especially with 
 their women, from which circumstance this kil derives its 
 name. Others fled to the Manhatans, but afterwards re- 
 turned, and have since continued in possession of the river, 
 although in small numbers and with little strength. Mean- 
 while, some Swedish soldiers, who had been in the service 
 of the West India Company, went to Sweden, and there 
 made known the fact that the country was so large 
 the Hollanders could not possess it all, especially the river 
 called the South river, lying next to Virginia, their old 
 friends, and that it was only necessary to go there with a 
 small number of people to take possession of it, as no one 
 in that country was powerful enough to prevent it. They 
 accordingly ordered a levy to be made of men, half of 
 them under the name of soldiers, and half of boors, and 
 sent them under a certain commander, to settle on the west 
 side of the river, well knowing where the best and 
 healthiest climate was, namely, up the river, and being 
 thus near their friends, the English. Whether these good 
 friends here or in Europe, have not assisted them in this 
 matter, is not known. They thus established themselves 
 there, the Hollanders either being not strong enough or too 
 negligent to prevent them, whilst the West India Company 
 began gradually to fail, and did not hinder them. The 
 Swedes, therefore, remained, having constructed small fort- 
 resses here and there, where they had settled and had 
 Swedish governors. 
 
WEST JERSEY. BYLLINGE AND FENWTCK. 241 
 
 The Hollanders did not abandon this river, but they, as 
 well as the Swedes, sought to advance their settlements ; 
 but although the whole country belonged to them, they 
 were, nevertheless, unable to possess it, the company either 
 having too much to do elsewhere, or not ability sufficient, or 
 sending over too few people. They have, always, however, 
 had their forts, without hindrance or molestation from the 
 Swedes, or being brought under their dominion. This 
 continued during the time the burgomasters of the city 
 of Amsterdam had this territory under their protection, up 
 to the year 1664, when Governor Stuyvesant went there 
 with a large force, planted himself before the fortress of 
 Christina on Christina kil, cannonaded it and compelled 
 them to surrender it with all their government to him, in 
 the name of the city of Amsterdam. 1 In that year the 
 whole country was reduced under the dominion of the 
 crown of England, which put an end to the rule of the 
 Hollanders, who had then recently conquered the Swedes. 
 
 The east side of the river, which is now entirely in the 
 possession of the quakers, has never been claimed by any 
 one, although here and there lived a Swede, as also among 
 the Swedes, here and there dwelt a Hollander. But when 
 the whole country, in the year 1664, came to the crown of 
 England under the Duke of York, the duke or the king 
 gave the land lying between the two rivers, namely, the 
 North river and the South river, the easterly part to my 
 Lord Carteret, and the westerly part to my Lord Berkeley, 
 but without a boundary line between them. This remained 
 so a long time when Mr. Byllinge, a brewer of London, 
 failed there. Berkeley, who was a great friend of his, as 
 
 1 It seems hardly necessary to mention that the journalist has fallen into 
 an error in regard to the time of the expedition of Stuyvesant against the 
 Swedes on the Delaware, and that it took place in 1655, and not in 1664. 
 Otherwise his statement is quite accurate. 
 
 31 
 
242 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 well as many other courtiers, and frequented Lis brewery 
 daily, came to his brewery and told him that as he, the 
 brewer, was a broken man, he could advise him how to 
 recover his fortune ; that if he would furnish him a sum 
 of money, he would, by authentic writings, make over to 
 him a tract of land which the king had given him. This 
 suited the brewer very well, who succeeded in obtaining 
 the money from his friends, and this land was accordingly 
 transferred to him. But as the affairs of the brewer would 
 not permit him to act himself, he had a friend named Fen- 
 wick, also a quaker, who was to transact the business in his 
 own name, for him the brewer, in consideration of which 
 Fenwick was to enjoy a tenth of the whole westerly part. 
 Fenwick managed it in his name so well that he would soon 
 have stripped the other of all, but means were afterwards 
 employed to compel him to be satisfied with his tenth. 
 Fenwick had letters printed and circulated everywhere, 
 in which he described this portion of the country in glow- 
 ing colors ; that it was the luij lek/cerland, 1 especially for 
 those who were of the same religious sentiments as him- 
 self. Many persons of this belief thereupon bought 
 pieces of land, parceled out only on the map, according to 
 the imperfect knowledge which they then possessed, first 
 into tenths, of which Fenwick had one, and then each tenth 
 into hundredths, embracing water, morasses, swamps and 
 marshes, so that these poor people bought they knew not 
 what. Fenwick hereupon came over to this country, with 
 a portion of these people, in order to take possession of 
 what they had bought; but he, being in debt in England, 
 was arrested on the eve of departure, and compelled to 
 leave the original letters of authorization in the hands of 
 his creditors, and could obtain himself nothing but copies 
 
 1 A kind of paradise,— literally a land where there is nothing to do, and 
 every delicacy to be enjoyed. 
 
SALEM. QUAKER WISDOM. 
 
 243 
 
 thereof. With these he arrived in the South river, and 
 demanded the country from the chief rulers there, who 
 required the production of his authority, which he refused 
 a long time, but not being able to obtain justice, he brought 
 forward his copies to show them, whereupon these princi- 
 pal men referred him to their sovereign governor at New 
 York, who has not yet been able either to reject or admit 
 the claim. They landed, however, after some tumult, but 
 without bloodshed, and have remained there, constantly 
 bringing more people, and the governor tolerating them. 1 
 Every one of the purchasers who arrives here is at a 
 loss to know where he has bought, and so settles down 
 where he thinks best, leaving it to be determined hereafter; 
 and finding more land has been sold than can be delivered, 
 looks out for himself. Inasmuch as they are thrown 
 under the government of New York, they have two small 
 courts to decide trifling cases, in order thereby to save 
 travel. Meanwhile the country was recovered by the 
 Hollanders in 1673, and then again, by treaty of peace, 
 surrendered to the crown of England, whereby the Dutch 
 lost all their right to the westerly part a second time, unless 
 the provision in the treaty that all things should remain as 
 before the war, should restore them their pretended right. 
 But if this clause only relates to the two peacemaking 
 parties, it remains justly with the crown of England. 
 Finally, there is the utmost confusion without any good 
 foundation for it. 
 
 1 Fenwick, holding West Jersey in trust for Edward Byllinge by deed 
 from Lord Berkeley, as stated by our journalist, arrived in the Delaware in 
 June, 1G75, and landed, says Smith, the early historian of New Jersey, " at 
 a pleasant, rich spot, situated near Delaware, by him called Salem, from 
 the peaceable aspect it then bore." Fenwick was a soldier, and not to be 
 deterred by slight opposition. He commanded the squadron of cavalry 
 which attended at the execution of Charles I. The difficulties as to his 
 title in West Jersey are set forth in Smith's History of New Jersey, and John- 
 son's Historical Account of Salem. 
 
244 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 There are quakers who either are more wise, or through 
 poverty, act so, who do not buy any land on the east 
 side of the river, but buy on the west side, where it is 
 cheaper in consequence of the Indians being there. The 
 quakers have endeavored to break up the Dutch and others 
 not of their religion, who have lived of old on the east side 
 of the river, but resist them, and are sustained by the 
 authorities. How far this may be carried, and what may 
 be the result, time will show. Tin; Indians liate the 
 quakers very much on account of their deceit and covetous- 
 ness, and say they are not Englishmen, always distinguish- 
 ing them from all other Englishmen, as is also done by 
 almost all other persons. The Indians say " they are not 
 Christians, they are like ourselves." The deeds of all landa 
 bought on the South river from the government of New 
 York, contain a provision that they must be settled upon 
 within three years, or they will revert to the king. Every 
 acre of land, whether cultivated or not, pays a bushel, that 
 is, one schepel and a fifth of wheat. The meadows (raleyen), 
 pay nothing. The swamps (creupel bos), cattle and men, 
 are free. 
 
 We will now resume our journey. "When we passed by 
 the mill, a quaker was there who gave us a letter, and told 
 us it was difficult traveling, on account of the height of 
 the water in the creeks; that about eight miles further on, 
 some Indians had come to live, a little off the path on the 
 left hand. We thought we would reach there by evening. 
 "We left the falls about two o'clock, following the ordinary 
 path, which is the same for men and horses, and is grown 
 up on both sides with bushes, which wore our breeches, 
 stockings and shoes, as much as all the woods in Maryland 
 together. The road runs from here east northeast. When 
 we came upon the land above, we found an extraordinary 
 quantity of water, not only upon the flats and in the val- 
 leys, brooks, and morasses, but also upon the high, solid 
 
WET QUARTERS. WADING THE RIVER. 245 
 
 ground. We supposed this was caused by shutting up the 
 creek by the mill dam, whereby the water did not have 
 shoot sufficient to run down, but it was not that alone. 
 We pursued our way, however, courageously, but disco- 
 vered no Indians up to evening. We called aloud to ascer- 
 tain whether they were about there, as they would answer 
 if they were ; and as our guide could speak the Indian lan- 
 guage well, we thought it would all come right. But it 
 was to no purpose ; we perceived no Indians. We had 
 gone about twelve miles from the falls, and it began to 
 grow dark, when we came to a hill descending to a creek or 
 small river called Milstone river, whence we saw fire at a dis- 
 tance, and supposed that Indians or other people might be 
 about there. We, therefore, called out again several times, 
 but received no answer. On arriving at the creek we found 
 it so full of water, and running so swiftly, there was no 
 prospect of crossing it that evening, the more so, as it was 
 almost entirely dark. We looked about for some wood, 
 though there was not much at this place, and collected as 
 much as we thought we would want to burn for the whole 
 night. We made a good fire, and after warming and 
 drying ourselves, eat our supper from what we had brought 
 in our traveling bag. At last we lay down around the fire 
 and fell asleep, having traveled twenty-five miles during 
 the day ; but our rest did not continue long, as it began to 
 rain hard before midnight, and we soon awoke and arose 
 to attend to our fire, in order that it might not be extin- 
 guished. The rain continued so long and increased so that 
 we could not sit down, because the place was so full of 
 water. We had to take care and protect the fire from going 
 out, which gave us enough to do. It was quite calm, or 
 blew very little, the wind coining from all quarters ; never- 
 theless, we could not dry ourselves, although we kept turn- 
 ing continually round towards the fire. We were wet 
 through, and could do nothing better than to stand straight 
 
240 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 up, whereby from the length of time and the weight of 
 our clothes we became very weary instead of having the 
 repose we so much needed. "Walk or sit, we could not, 
 because it was too dark, and the land too full of water for 
 the former, and for the other it was too wet. We were 
 compelled to wait with patience in this position until day- 
 light, which seemed to tarry, because we longed for it so 
 much. It was one of the shortest days in the year, with 
 dark and rainy weather. Each one looked out for the day 
 as if we could thereby cause it to appear sooner. Finally, 
 as our wood was consumed, the day begun. 
 
 307/t, SatUrday. As soon as we could see, we went to the 
 creek, to ascertain whether we could cross over, but it was 
 as full and the water ran as swiftly as the evening before, 
 because it had rained continually, and was still raining; 
 although we had hoped if the weather had remained dry, 
 the water would have subsided. As it was, there was 
 no other course than to wade over, and although we were 
 stiff and cold, we had to take off our stockings, and put 
 our bare feet in the shoes to protect them from treading 
 on any thing sharp, and our stockings were the dryest 
 articles we had. We bound up our breeches as high 
 as we could. " Now," said I, " let each one of us take a 
 good stick in his hand in order to prop himself up against 
 the current, and prevent his being washed away." Our 
 guide went ahead even before I had found a stick ; but 
 when he reached the middle of the creek, he cried out, 
 " Help, help, if you do not help me, I will be carried 
 away." I ran, took ofF my breeches, placed them on top 
 of my head, and, struggling, stick in hand, with the stones 
 washing from under my feet and stick, went to him and 
 took from him my traveling sack with which he was bent 
 down. I kept on and was nearly across when my foot 
 slipped on a smooth stone, and I fell forward into the wa- 
 ter. However, by the aid of the stick, and the short distance 
 
INDIAN MANNERS AND HOSPITALITY. 247 
 
 to go, I succeeded in crossing, the sack being thoroughly 
 wet. Our guide who had on leather breeches, which became 
 full of the running water, whereby he could not get along, 
 now rolled them up, and by that means the water ran out 
 below and lightened him, and thus he got over. My com- 
 panion was yet on the other side, with his traveling bag 
 and two dcgens (swords ?). He did the same as I had done, 
 and placed his breeches on top of his head, tied the rest on 
 well, and followed us ; but he was scarcely in the middle 
 of the creek when he cried out to us to come and meet 
 him, and relieve him of the sack if we wished him to come 
 over, for he could not go any further. "Whereupon, I 
 went in the creek again to him, and took from him the 
 sack. Thus we all three waded over. "We dressed our- 
 selves quickly, for it was very cold, putting on our stiff 
 legs, the wet stockings, which chafed them, and over them 
 the water soaked shoes and the breeches which were wet 
 through with the rain and very heavy : and then taking a 
 mouth full of rum, we set out again on the way, stiff as we 
 were. We were now anxious in relation to crossing this 
 Milstone at halfway, where it would be much broader and 
 fuller of water. "We proceeded then badly conditioned, 
 wet, cold and weary enough. We had thirty-six miles to 
 travel to-day and more if we missed the road. "We kept 
 up our spirits, however. "We found the land above so full 
 of water, that we were most of the time over shoes in it, 
 and sometimes half leg deep. After we had gone four or 
 five miles, we saw the houses of the Indians on the right, 
 and went to them partly for the purpose of drying our- 
 selves, for though the rain seemed at times to abate it still 
 continued, and partly to inquire the best way to go, in 
 order to cross the large creek. We entered their dwelling 
 where we dried ourselves and breakfasted a mouthful out 
 of our traveling sacks. "We presented the Indians some 
 fish-hooks which pleased them. As to crossing the large 
 
248 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 creek, they said it was not advisable to wade over, as the 
 water was as high as our shoulders or higher, as one of 
 them showed us, and the current was so swift as to render 
 it impassible. He said that not far from their house lived 
 a saekemaker who had in the creek a canoe with which 
 he had set a man across the day before, who had a horse 
 which he swam over; but the saekemaker was not pleased 
 at his doing so without his permission. "We promised him 
 a guilder to take us to the saekemaker. While we were 
 in this house a little naked child fell from its mother's lap, 
 and received a cut in its head, whereupon all who sat 
 around that fire, and belonged to that household, began to 
 cry, husband and wife, young and old, and scream more 
 than the child, and as if they themselves had broken their 
 arms or legs. In another corner of this house, there sat 
 around a fire, forming another household, a party whose 
 faces were entirely blackened, who observed a gloomy 
 silence and looked very singular. They were in mourn- 
 ing for a deceased friend. The Indian having made him- 
 self ready, took both our sacks together and tied them on 
 his back for the purpose of carrying them, which did not 
 suit us badly, as we were very tired. lie did that without 
 our asking him, and conducted us in a direction more 
 southeasterly to their king or saekemaker, who lived two 
 or three miles from there. On arriving there, they imme- 
 diately offered us some boiled beans in a calabash, cooked 
 without salt or grease, though they brought us our own kind 
 of spoons to take them out with. It was the queen who did 
 this, who was dressed more than the others. She gave us 
 also a piece of their bread, that is, pounded maize kneaded 
 into a cake and baked under the ashes. "We eat some of 
 it, more for the purpose of satisfying her people, than our 
 appetite. Meanwhile we agreed with the saekemaker to 
 set us across the river for three guilders in zeewan. "We 
 presented fish-hooks to several of them, but especially to 
 
THE VILLAGE OF NASSAU. 
 
 249 
 
 the queen who had entertained us. The sackemaker heing 
 ready, took one of our sacks to carry, and went on ahead 
 of us ; and there went this king, carrying our pack, almost 
 without any clothing on his body. He conducted us to the 
 creek which was two or three miles distant to the north 
 and northeast over a very difficult and rocky hill. On ar- 
 riving at the creek we saw there certainly would have 
 been no way of going over, for the water was very high, 
 and ran like a sluice. We were then put across, I myself 
 helping the sackemaker and our sack-carrier in doing it, as 
 it was difficult to go over even in a canoe. He took us a 
 piece of the way, until we came to the right path, and gave 
 us proper directions how to proceed further. He was to 
 come for our guide the next day and carry him back. 
 
 We went on through water for the most part east north- 
 east, until about three o'clock in the afternoon, when the 
 rain began to hold up, and we turned into a road on the 
 right, which runs easterly to the Haritans kil. We did 
 this because it was nearer, as they said, and also in order 
 to go to a young Dutchman's and secure good lodgings, 
 of which we were truly in want. The other road led to 
 Piskatteway to Mr. Greenland's, where we stopped a night 
 in going on ; yet thi3 road was so long, and it was so diffi- 
 cult to travel continually through the water, that we could 
 hardly proceed any further, as my comrade was entirely 
 exhausted. We were, therefore, half afraid we would be 
 compelled to pass the night in the woods. We picked up 
 courage, however, as well as we could, and arrived at dusk 
 at the house of Cornelis van Langevelt (Longfield), 1 step- 
 son of Thomas, the baker in New York. He lived in 
 that house alone with an Indian, who assisted him in 
 
 1 Cornelius Longfield was one of the deputies to the general assembly of 
 East Jersey, from Piseataway, in 1696-7. Whitehead's Contributions to the 
 Early History of Perth Amboy, 403. 
 
 32 
 
250 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 trading with the Indians, but be had some neighbors who 
 were beginning a new village on the land of this Thomas, 
 the baker, directly opposite Pescatteway 1 upon the point 
 where the Milstone river unites itself with the Ronton* kfl, 
 and Hows down to Adder hoi. The begun village had no 
 name yet, but they intended to call it Nassau. 1 This 
 Dutchman was a good acquaintance of Barent, our guide, 
 and we were, therefore, welcome. He had heard of our 
 being at the South river, and expected we would come 
 over here, perhaps, he said, to be neighbors. He recom- 
 mended to us a piece of land here, but we had neither 
 time nor inclination to go and look at it. 
 
 We had special reasons to thank the Lord, and let our 
 hearts ascend to him on account of several things which 
 we here take notice of to his glory, and in which his provi- 
 dence and goodness have assisted us. First, if we had 
 taken the before described Indian with us, there is no pro- 
 bability we would have come right, he being a mere boy, 
 without experience, and not well acquainted with the road, 
 especially under such difficult circumstances; and, worst 
 of all, we were not able to speak a word with him. Our 
 guide said several times, and we thought so, too, that when 
 he had seen these difficulties, he would have deserted us in 
 the woods, and run away, as he could easily have done, 
 and we would have been left alone. In the next place, 
 we did not find the Indian dwelling on the other side of 
 the first crossing, as we had wished, and supposed we 
 would do. And if we had, what advice would there have 
 been for our crossing the second place ? We would then 
 have been between the two crossings without any help. 
 And thirdly, notwithstanding all our hardships, our 
 
 1 This -would seem to have been not far from New Brunswick, if not at 
 that identical spot. The name of Milstone is evidently applied here to a 
 portion of the present Raritan river. 
 
NEW YEAR'S DAY 1680. AMBOY. 
 
 251 
 
 hearts possessed such strength and courage until we hap- 
 pily arrived. To him he glory therefor forever. 
 
 Milstone river is not, as is usually supposed, the Raritans 
 ML, for that runs near this house on the right hand, due west, 
 and a little more southerly heyond, and this one before the 
 house, runs on the left hand, west-northwest, and a little 
 more northerly beyond. It has its source above the falls 
 of the South river, not far from that river, and runs for 
 the most part north, and coming from thence, makes several 
 great bends, and, therefore, in going from Piscatteway to 
 the South river, you must cross it three times. As far as 
 known, it is about twelve or fourteen Dutch miles to this 
 place on the Raritans. The Milstone is not very wide, 
 which causes the current to run so much swifter when 
 there is much upper water. It has several falls, and is 
 shallow in dry weather. It is, therefore, not navigable, 
 though the Indians sometimes come down in their little 
 canoes, made of the bark of trees. 
 
 31st, Sunday. As we proposed to rest ourselves, we kept 
 ourselves quiet to-day. We paid our guide, giving him 
 two ducatoons, 1 that is, thirty-two guilders in zeeicant, 
 because he had a little more trouble than either he or we 
 had expected, and presented him with one hundred fish- 
 hooks in addition. He was well satisfied and thanked us. 
 He left after breakfast to return home. Meanwhile, we 
 expected a boat which they said was coming to load with 
 wood, but it did not come. 
 
 1680, January 1st, Monday. The boat not arriving, and 
 Christmas, according to the old style, being near, at which 
 time there is not much boating, every one endeavoring to 
 be at home, we were apprehensive it would not come. 
 TVe, therefore, made an agreement with one of the neigh- 
 bors, that he should take us in a canoe to the French 
 
 1 Equal to two dollars and fifty cents in our money. 
 
252 
 
 JOl'RXEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 tavern, which we have mentioned before, at Elizabeth* 
 town point, kil <i<h1cr kol, for twelve guilders in zeewant. 
 We accordingly left ahout ten o'clock in the morning, 
 through a beautiful creek, which is more like a river, with 
 tine large meadows or marshes on both sides of it. We 
 came to a bank, from the broken point of which a beautiful 
 white clay is taken, as fine as I have ever seen anywhere, 
 or as Cologne earth can be. At the same place there are 
 also red earth, and earth entirely black, which would be 
 suitable for various purposes. At the point of the li<ifit<ius 
 kil, we arrived at a place called Amboy, a very proper site 
 for a city or place of business. From there you can look 
 over the great bay between the Nevesinck and the west point 
 of Staten island into the sea. As regard view, therefore, 
 it lies as well as New York, and is quite safe to be reached 
 by ships. The land around it is tolerably good, and there- 
 fore, the place is reserved from sale. There is an abun- 
 dance of oysters on the shore, considered to be of the best. 
 The ebb tide being spent, we entered kil <i<-hl<r hoi with a 
 good wind and rowing ahead, arrived at about three o'clock 
 at the point of Woodbridge creek. We landed here on 
 Staten island to drink at the house of the Frenchman, Le 
 Chaudronnier, where we formerly passed a night in making 
 our tour of Staten island. He set before us something to 
 eat, and related to us what strange opinions, every one, as 
 well as he himself, entertained of us, which were certainly 
 false enough, and whereof we disabused him. From there 
 we made good speed past Smoker's hook, and by evening 
 arrived at the point of Elizabethtown creek, in the tavern 
 before mentioned, where we lodged for the night; but 
 there was nothing to be had there except to warm us. We 
 were no sooner in the house than it began to rain and blow 
 hard. We were, therefore, lucky in being housed, for to be 
 in such weather and darkness upon the water in a canoe, 
 is not without danger. We again perceived the Lord's 
 
SAFE RETURN TO THE CITY. 
 
 253 
 
 goodness and care, for which we rendered him thanks. 
 We discovered no chance of going to the city immediately, 
 but heard that two boats had gone down this afternoon, 
 and were expected back the next day, which made us glad. 
 "We had something left in our traveling sack, upon which 
 we made our supper, and then laid ourselves down to 
 sleep in our old fashion upon a little hay, before the fire. 
 
 2d, Tuesday. On looking out at daybreak, we found quite 
 calm, good weather, but no boats ; but when it grew lighter, 
 we saw a boat lying at anchor below the point. She 
 appeared to be laden, and we therefore could not be cer- 
 tain that she would come up further. It was in consequence 
 of her being laden that she had waited there for daylight, 
 although she had a good tide to sail up to the city. We 
 ascertained she was one of those which had gone down the 
 evening before ; and thereupon looked about to see how to 
 get on board of her, as it would not be long before she 
 would leave. The landlord took us and another person in 
 a canoe to put on board, but before we had paddled half 
 way, we saw them weigh anchor, and get under sail. We 
 called out, and pulled with all our might, and, as it was 
 calm, overtook her in time, and went on board. They 
 were Dutchmen from the city, and were even our neighbors. 
 They cheerfully received us; we paid our landlord, who 
 immediately rowed back. 
 
 The wind began to blow gradually more and more from 
 the west-northwest, so that when we arrived in the North 
 river, we had as much as we could carry. It brought us 
 up to the city about nine o'clock, where we had not yet 
 set a foot on shore, before such a storm burst out of the 
 northwest, of rain, hail and snow together, that every 
 thing seemed to bend and crack. It was at the same time 
 so cold, it appeared as if this weather, whereby the winter 
 was begun, had held back until we had arrived in the city 
 to spend the winter. We cannot pass this circumstance by 
 
254 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE DELAWARE. 
 
 without Rome reflections upon the special goodness and provi- 
 dence of the Lord, which we experience so constantly; that 
 he caused us to reach the land and house on the point of 
 ElizftbethtowB creek before the storm came up there; that 
 the boat came to anchor there and took us on board, when 
 she had a good tide and wind, but the darkness prevented 
 her from keeping on, and we believe no more boats went 
 there afterwards, not only during Christmas, but during the 
 whole winter; and thirdly, that as soon as we had landed 
 in the city, such a great storm and the winter began 
 at the same time ; to which may be added a fourth, that 
 we hired the canoe on the Raritans, for being in the city, I 
 spoke to the skipper of the boat, and he said he did not 
 expect to go there again during the winter. Certainly if 
 we did not regard all this with an humble and thankful 
 heart, we should he guilty indeed. 
 
 But before we depart from New Jersey, we must remark 
 that my Lord Carteret, having obtained this government, 
 sent here his nephew [brother] Carteret, to manage 
 the same in his own way. This Carteret arriving here 
 from England, accordingly, for the purpose of governing it, 
 went first to New England, where he so recommended his 
 plan of government, and promised the people so much if 
 they would go with him, that he caused a large number of 
 persons to follow him here from Piscataway and Wood- 
 bridge, two places so called in New England, and settle 
 down in New Jersey, where they have built two villages, 
 called Piscataway and "Woodbridge, after the names of the 
 places where they had lived in New England. 1 And 
 
 " 1 Governor Carteret did not arrive to his government of New Jersey till 
 the latter end of the summer, 1665. With him came about thirty people, 
 some of them servants. They brought goods proper for the planting a 
 new country ; and the governor soon afterwards sent persons into New 
 England and other places to publish the proprietor's concessions, and to 
 invite people to settle there ; upon which many soon came from thence. 
 
A DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 255 
 
 indeed they did not do badly in view of the soil, because 
 it is much richer here than where they were, although 
 they did not choose the best land here by far. Besides 
 these people, he found here already a large number of 
 other persons at Ghnoenepa, Bergen, &c. 
 
 "We were welcomed on our arrival by our old people, 
 and we rejoiced and praised God, for we had seen the 
 storm coming while we were on the water. "We rested 
 and warmed ourselves, then refreshed ourselves a little, 
 and in the afternoon, delivered a portion of the letters 
 which had been entrusted to us from the South river, and 
 Maryland. Those which we had from Ephraim and his 
 wife, we gave to her mother and father (in-law) who wel- 
 comed us. "We told them of the good health of their child- 
 ren, and the comfort and hope which they gave us, which 
 pleased them. 
 
 3c?, Wednesday. We put our chamber in order this morn- 
 ing, and in the afternoon delivered the rest of the letters. 
 We went also to M. de la Grange's, where we saw a newly 
 drawn map of the South river, from the falls to Burlington, 
 made by the land surveyor there. He told us the governor 
 had given him a grant of a piece of land on the South 
 river between those places. 
 
 But what grieved us was, on arriving here to find no 
 letters by Captain Jacob, when we had so much expected 
 them, and did not know the cause of there being none. 
 But we consoled ourselves in him who is the consolation 
 of all those who know him and trust in him ; as we praised 
 and thanked him for his fatherly protection, his constant 
 care and guidance, through his providence, which has been 
 
 Some settled at Elizabethtown, and others at Woodbridge, Piscataway and 
 Newark." Smith's History of New Jersey, 67. Piscataway was so named 
 from Piscataqua in New England, and Woodbridge, from the Rev. John 
 Woodbridge, of Newbury, Massachusetts, from which two places the first 
 settlers came. Whitehead's Contributions, &c, 359, 401. 
 
250 
 
 JOURNEY TO Till: DELAWARE 
 
 so continual and so manifest in our whole journey. He 
 causes us to put our trust in him, to lose ourselves in him, 
 and worthily to walk in such grace that lie may he glorified 
 in us and through us here, during our lives, in grace, and 
 hereafter in glory. Amen. So may it be. 
 
 It would serve very well to add now a general descrip- 
 tion of the country through which we have traveled, and 
 of each part in particular; but as we intend to give our- 
 selves expressly to this work, we will omit it here, and 
 proceed, meanwhile, with our journal. 
 
THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 4th, Thursday. It was now Christmas, according to the old 
 style. It had frozen very hard during the night. We 
 went to church, in order to hear Do. Niewenhuise preach, 
 but more to give no offense to the people, than either on his 
 or our own account. 
 
 5th, Friday. "We began writing. 
 
 6th, Saturday. It continued to freeze hard, though during 
 the day the weather was more moderate. The ice was 
 strong and mixed with snow. 
 
 13th, Saturday. It felt like a change of weather. In all 
 thffe time nothing occurred worthy of note except the ships 
 left the harbor in front of the city, on Thursday, for Deutel 
 bay, a cove on the East river, about three miles east of the 
 city, opposite Hellgate, where they lie during the winter, 
 to be out of the way of the floating ice, which is some- 
 times very great. 1 On Friday, the governor's yacht arrived 
 
 1 Deutel bay was a small bight of the East river, nearly opposite the 
 southerly poiut of Blackwell's island, at the foot of 46th and 47th streets, 
 on the island of New York. Compare Ratzer's map of New York, 1766-7, 
 with Bridge's map of the Commissioners, 1811. Judge Benson, in his 
 memoir, N. Y. Historical Society Collections, second series, II, 96, says, " Deutel 
 bay, corrupted to Turtle bay. When the head of the cask was further 
 secured with pegs, they would say the cask was gedeutelt ; the pegs were 
 short, but at the base broad ; the bay narrow at its entrance, broad at the 
 bottom ; the supposed resemblance between the bay and the peg, the sup- 
 
 33 
 
258 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 from Virginia, having been twenty-two days on the 
 way. They had taken a sacknnakcr there with whom the 
 governor had made a treaty of peaee between the Indians 
 and English in that quarter. In all this frost and cold we 
 have discovered little difference from the cold in Holland, 
 except that when the sun is high, that is, about nine o'clock 
 in the morning, it is a little milder here. It thawed every 
 day until the 
 
 lOtk, Tuesday, when all the ice and snow disappeared. De 
 la Grange having a new small map of a portion of the 
 South river, I copied it. 
 
 24/A, Wednesday. Fred. Flipsen met me, and told me the 
 governor had been at his house, and spoken to him about 
 us, and that he desired to see us and talk with us. "We, 
 therefore, determined to call upon him, and at the expira- 
 tion of three days of rain and stormy weather, on the 
 
 26th, Friday, we went to Fredryek Flipsen, that he might 
 take Ufl to the governor, as he had promised, and as he did 
 do. The governor received us kindly, and told us he had 
 wondered at our being so long in the country without 
 coming to see him. "We replied, that we would not have 
 failed in doing so, if he had been in the city, for when we 
 arrived here he was at Penequik, and afterwards when he 
 had been only a few days at home, with much business to 
 occupy him, he left for Fort Albany just as we were going 
 to the South river. We separated politely from each other. 
 
 30//t, Monday. A person who, they said, was the thief- 
 
 posed origin of the name. " This derivation of the name is merely hypo- 
 thetical, as the distinguished writer himself declares. If we may judge 
 from the topographical authorities which we have cited above, of the very 
 highest character, the " supposed resemblance " between the bay and the 
 peg never did exist, and consequently this " supposed origin " of the name 
 has not even this foundation. The name occurs early in our records ; a 
 patent was issued for land at Deutal bay to George Horns and Thomas 
 Hall, on 15th November, 1G38. 0 'Callayhari '* Calendar of Dutch Manu- 
 scripts, 365. 
 
EXAMINED BY MAYOR ROMBOUTS. 259 
 
 catcher (diefleycr), came to our house in the evening, and, 
 by order of the governor, summoned us to appear at eight 
 o'clock the next morning at the house of Rombouts, 1 the 
 mayor of the city, and give our names and further informa- 
 tion as to our doings and condition, as all strangers now 
 and henceforth, whether men or women, must do. "We 
 were somewhat astonished, since they had told us, as was 
 certainly true, that such had never been the custom. "What 
 induced them to adopt this course, we do not know. 
 
 31^, Tuesday. We went in company with the old woman 
 where we lodged, to Mayor Rombouts, at the appointed 
 time. "When we arrived, there was a magistrate's officer 
 or two in attendance, and some came in while we were 
 there. Addressing us, he said : " Friends, we have sum- 
 moned you here, not because we have any thing to say to 
 you, or have any debt to claim, or because any one has 
 sought of us to demand of you any such thing, or to sum- 
 mon you." The reason, he said, was because we had been 
 so long in the country without having reported our names, 
 who we were, our profession, trade or business, condition 
 and purpose. We answered, we would by no means have 
 been in default, if there were any law or order which 
 required us to do so, or if we had been informed that it 
 was customary, or had ever been done ; and it, therefore, 
 surprised us that they complained and charged us with 
 neglect of duty, or found fault with us, or wished to con- 
 vict us of a matter where there was no law, obligation, 
 custom, or even precedent ; that this treatment struck us 
 as very strange, since there were several foreigners who 
 had come over in the ship with us, from whom they had 
 not required what they required of us. " You know well," 
 he said, " it is the custom in Europe." We replied, " it was 
 
 1 Francis Rombouts was mayor of New York in 1679-80. A brief sketch 
 of his life is contained in the New York Manual for 1864, page 609. 
 
260 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 not so in any of the United Provinces or any other places 
 except upon the frontiers." " Well," he continued, " we 
 are no frontier, hut a capital, and it must and shall he so 
 in the future." lie then inquired after our names, trade or 
 profession, and place of residence in Fatherland, all of 
 whiclrwe told him, namely, that my comrade was a theo- 
 logian, and had studied at Leyden ; that I was a wine- 
 racker, 1 and that we both lived near Leeuwarden, in Fries- 
 land. He asked further what we came there to do, or what 
 was our purpose or intention. "We told him it was to 
 look at the country. "How, look at the country?" he 
 asked : " some come here to look at the cities, others at the 
 fortifications; some to learn the mode of government and 
 policy, others the manner of regulating the militia; others 
 again to learn the climate, and times, and seasons, and you 
 run and travel through the country without giving us any 
 notice why." We replied, we had come here and traveled 
 through the country in order to make ourselves acquainted 
 generally with the nature and fertility of the soil, as was 
 convenient, or we might perhaps go around mornings and 
 evenings. He inquired further of us how we wished to be 
 regarded in the future, whether as citizens or foreigners. 
 We answered, as foreigners. "Well then," he proceeded. 
 " You are forbidden to carry on trade, particularly with 
 the inhabitants, that is, to sell any thing to private persons, 
 but you may dispose of it to merchants who sell to private 
 individuals." He said the privilege, or burgher right 
 
 cost beavers, each beaver reckoned at five guilders 
 
 in Holland money, or twenty-five guilders in zeewan, and 
 was prohibited to all persons who reside out of the city ; and 
 as we resided out of the city, we must be treated like 
 others. We replied to this, we would cheerfully obey the 
 law. We were also told to travel nowhere, particularly 
 
 1 One who put up wine in casks. 
 
VISIT TO NYACK. REMEMBRANCES. 
 
 261 
 
 to Albany, without special permission from the governor, 
 which we said we would ask from his Excellent, and 
 thereupon ,we left. 
 
 On arriving at our house, we found there Simon of 
 Gouanes, who had brought a boat load of wood, and with 
 whom my companion went to Long Island, but I remained 
 at home ; the Lord exercising me somewhat, I was rather 
 quiet. We had been to the strand several days, watching 
 for Claes, the ferryman, or some other opportunity to cross 
 over to Gemoenepaen, but we found none ; and as there was 
 some difficulty between this governor, and the governor of 
 New Jersey, we were contented to wait and follow the 
 providence of the Lord therein, although our purpose in 
 going over was not on that account. 
 
 February 1st, Wednesday. Gerrit, the son-in-law of our 
 host, having been a long time upon Long Island, came 
 over with a cask of tobacco, which he intended to ship in 
 the ship Beaver ; he repacked it, and I helped him cooper 
 it. He said he had another one to bring over from the island, 
 and then he would take Simon's boat and go with us to 
 Ackquakenon. After he had finished packing this one, the 
 boat going to Gouanes after wood, I left along with him 
 on the 
 
 3d, Friday, at nine o'clock in the morning. I heard 
 that my companion had gone from the Bay to Najack, 
 where I proposed to follow him, because we might not 
 be able to obtain these people who, in order to go to Ack- 
 queqenon, resolve upon it half a year beforehand, for when 
 one can go, the other cannot, and we were not able to 
 wait. Simon told us now he could not accompany us. 
 The other person was uncertain, and Gerrit was not any 
 more sure. I arrived at Najack in the evening, and my 
 comrade also arrived there from the bay, in company with 
 Jaques. He concluded to return to the city with me in 
 the morning. 
 
262 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 4th, Saturday. Our resolution was defeated. We started 
 on the road, but were compelled to return, as it had rained 
 hard the whole night, and continued to do so all day. 
 
 bth, Sunday. It snowed all night and until about nine 
 o'clock in the morning, when it cleared up, and we set out 
 on our journey. We reached the ferry at one o'clock, 
 where we waited three hours to be taken over by the lame 
 brother-in-law of Jan, the baker, or Jan Theunissen. 
 
 6th, Monday evening. M. de la Grange came to call upon 
 us, being somewhat under concern of mind, and giving us 
 some hope. His wife, being touched also, has been to 
 see us several times; and certainly the Lord will comfort 
 us about his people. I will take some other occasion to 
 speak more particularly in relation to this matter, if 
 the Lord continue it. Meanwhile, I had translated the 
 Verheffinge des Gestes tot God, (Lifting up the Soul to God) 
 into Dutch, for Elizabeth Rodenburgh, wife of Ephraim 
 Hermans, in order to send her a token of gratitude for the 
 acts of kindness enjoyed at her house, as she had evinced 
 a great inclination for it, and relished it much, when some- 
 times we read portions of it to her while we were there. 
 I also began a translation of the last exercise of the Holy 
 Decades. Nothing further occurred worthy of mention, 
 except that the snow, frost, rain and inclement weather 
 prevented us from going to Ackqueguenon. 
 
 11th, Sunday} We received letters from the South river, 
 from Mr. Ephraim Hermans, and Heer Jolian Moll, which 
 consoled us as to their state, and gave us some hope at least 
 of great progress, as appears by the same. We answered 
 them, and dispatched our letters by the same person who 
 brought theirs, and who was to return on the 
 
 1 Tbe dates of the journal after Friday the 26 of January, appear to have 
 fallen into a little confusion, a day or two having been dropped, probably, 
 in consequence of daily notes being sometimes omitted for lack of incident. 
 The same difficulty occurs the last of March. 
 
DEPARTURE FOR AQUAKENONK. 263 
 
 14th, Wednesday, and with whom we sent the translation of 
 the Verhcffingedes Gestes with a small package of knitted baby- 
 clothes. The ship Beaver came out of Deutel bay, and was 
 up for Europe and Holland immediately. Therefore, on the 
 
 15th, Thursday, we began writing to our friends in the 
 Fatherland. The winter gradually passing away, the 
 weather was during the last of February, and first of 
 March, as pleasant as if it were the month of May. I 
 finished the translation of the Decades. 
 
 March 2d, Saturday. M. de la Grange has chartered a 
 yacht to go to the South river, with a lot of merchandise, 
 and to take to his land there the boor, whom he had 
 brought for that purpose from the Fatherland. This person 
 came from Sluis, 1 and had done nothing here as yet, be- 
 cause de la Grange had not gone to Tinaconcq, as he had 
 first intended. He designed to take him now to the land 
 he had bought on Christina kil, and have it put in order. 
 He had obtained exemption from tax on his merchandise, 
 and was the first one who had enjoyed this advantage, that 
 is, from the second tax, he having paid the first tax when 
 the goods were unladen here. All merchandise pays a 
 second tax when it is sent to the South river, or Albany. 
 I gave him Les Paroles de Salut for Seer Johan Moll, who 
 had urgently requested us to send him some religious book 
 or other, writing to him what was necessary on the subject. 
 
 "We had waited till this time to go to Ackquekanon, either 
 on account of the weather, or because it was not convenient 
 for the persons on Long Island. We finally determined 
 to go with Gerrit who could speak very good Indian, and 
 who had sent word to us from Long Island, that we must 
 be at Simon's house in Gouanes, for that purpose on Sun- 
 day morning in order to go in his boat. We accordingly 
 prepared ourselves. 
 
 1 In Zeeland. 
 
264 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 3d, Sunday. We both went over to Long Island, at eight 
 o'clock ; and as we were entering the ferry boat, Madame 
 de la Grange came aboard with her nephew, Kasparus 
 Beindcrman, who, when they had landed, took a wagon, and 
 rode on to tbe bay. We went through Iireukelen to Gou- 
 anes, where we arrived about ten o'clock, and found Gerrit 
 was not yet there. Several families of Indians had erected 
 their huts upon the beach, whereby Simon's house was 
 very accessible. This was done with the consent of his 
 wife, with whom he had left tbe profit from the Indians. 
 While we were engaged in obtaining some oysters, Gerrit 
 with Jaques and his son and daughter rode up in a wagon. 
 Jaques had come for the purpose of attending to a sick 
 horse of Simon, which had a certain disease, they call 
 here the staggers, to which their horses are subject, and 
 with which the creatures whether going or standing con- 
 stantly stagger, and often fall ; this increasing they fall 
 down at last, and so continue till they die. It is cured 
 sometimes by cutting the tip end of the tail, and letting 
 the blood drip out; then opening a vein, giving the animal 
 a warm drink and making a puncture in the forehead, 
 from which a large quantity of matter runs out. The 
 boat being leaky, and a right calculation not having been 
 made as to the tide, we remained here to-day, intending to 
 leave early in the morning, and, therefore, made every 
 preparation. We had expected another person to go with 
 us, but there were only us three. 
 
 4th, Monday. We left Gouanes bay at high water, about 
 eight o'clock, with a southerly wind, but calm, and rowed 
 with the current to Gheele hocck (Yellow hook), where we 
 made sail, and crossed the bay to Achter kol, where we 
 knew there were some Indians lying behind Constable's 
 hook. We sailed there in order to request one of them, 
 named Hans, to go with us as a guide. Hans had long 
 frequented among the Dutch, and spoke the Dutch lan- 
 
THE PASSAIC. NEWARK. 
 
 265 
 
 guage tolerable well. He was a great nietap, that is, friend 
 of Gerrit. He refused at first to accompany us, saying he 
 had just come from there ; and when we urged it upon 
 him, he said, " would you Christians do as much for us 
 Indians ? If you had just been there and had come 
 back tired and weary, and some Indians should come 
 and ask you in the midst of your children, in your 
 own houses, while busied with your occupation, would you 
 be ready immediately to go back with them ? " We an- 
 swered yes, upon proper terms. He said, "I do 'not 
 think so, I know well what you would do." We told 
 him, we would fully satisfy him. He wished to make a 
 bargain beforehand, which Ave did not, as we wanted to 
 see whether he would earn any thing. He allowed him- 
 self to be persuaded ; " but," he said, " I will lose so much 
 time in making zeewant," which is their money and con- 
 sists only of little beads. 1 " I am very cold ; you are all 
 well clothed and do not feel the cold ; I am an old man 
 (as he was), and have nothing but a little worn out blanket 
 for my naked body." We must give him a blanket and 
 then he would be willing to go with us. We said we had 
 none with us. " Well," he replied, " I do not ask you to 
 give it to me now, but when I come to the city." We 
 told him he should be satisfied, and have no cause of com- 
 plaint. After he had fitted himself out a little he went 
 with us. We had some of the flood tide left; but before 
 we reached Schutters island the wind changed, and it was 
 quite calm. We, therefore, struck our sails and went to 
 rowing in order to strike the cuiTent. By scraping along 
 we reached the Slangcnbergh, on the west point of the Noord 
 
 1 It is hardly necessary to mention that these beads were made out of clam 
 shells, those made from the purple part of the shell being more valuable 
 than those made from the white. At the time of the journal three purple, 
 or six white pairs of wampum or zeewan, passed for a stuiver or penny, 
 by express regulation of the governor. 
 
 34 
 
266 
 
 TIIE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 West M 1 where there is a very large piece of salt meadow, 
 and where the tide ran so strong against us we could not 
 proceed any farther. We, therefore, lay to and went 
 ashore, in order to walk about a little. This was the 
 largest, cleanest and most level piece of salt meadow that we 
 had observed anywhere. After having been an hour or a 
 little more on shore, a light breeze sprung up out of the 
 east, when we took the boat again and putting off, came to 
 Mil/art, an Knglish village, lying upon high land on the 
 south side of the creek, having left Santfort on the right 
 hand, which is an English village also, lying on the west 
 side of llackingsackse kit We then came to high land ; 
 and the wind falling, we rowed up against the ebb tide to 
 a house on the northeast side belonging to one Captain 
 Berry, where it being evening and commencing to rain, 
 we stopped, made the boat fast, and took every thing out 
 of her. 2 We entered the house which was large enough, 
 
 1 The Passaic. 
 
 2 The following description of this part of New Jersey, appeared in 1685, 
 in a work published under the sanction of the proprietors of East Jersey, 
 with the title of The model of the government of the province of Eaist New 
 Jersey, in America. 
 
 " Newark alias Milford, is a town distant to the northward, over land 
 from Elizabethtown, about 6 or 7 miles. It lies on a river called Newark 
 river, which emptieth itself into the bay about 4 or 5 miles down. Oppo- 
 site to the town, on the north side of the river lyeth a great tract of land 
 belonging to Mr. Kingsland and Captain Sandford, the quit rents whereof 
 are purchased. There is another tract of land taken up higher on the 
 river by Captain Berry, who hath disposed of a part of it. There 
 are several plantations settled there. Its said he hath about 10,000, 
 acres there ; further up the water is an island of about 1,000 acres 
 belonging to Mr. Christopher Hoogland, of Newark ; if it be not an island 
 it is tyed by a very narrow slip of land to the continent. Above that is a 
 greater tract of land, above 8 or 9,000 acres purchased by lease of the 
 governor according to the concessions by Captain Jacques Castelayne, 
 and partners who have begun some settlement." — Whitehead's East Jersey 
 under the Proprietors, 274. 
 
 The first settlements at Newark were made in 1666, by immigrants from 
 
THE INDIANS' FIRST CAUSE. 
 
 267 
 
 but poorly furnished. We found nobody there except a 
 negro who could speak nothing but a little broken French. 
 We warmed ourselves, and eat from what we had brought 
 with us, Hans, the Indian, sharing with us. In the mean- 
 while, we engaged in conversation with him, and he told 
 us certain things which we had never heard any Indian 
 or European mention, the opinion of the Indians in re- 
 lation to the Godhead, the creation, and the preservation 
 and government of all things. 
 
 "We acknowledge, he said, a supreme first power, some 
 cause of all things, which is known by all the Indians of 
 North America, hereabouts, whether Mahatans, Sinnekes, 
 Maquaas, Minquaas, southern or northern Indians, not only 
 by the name of Sackamacher or Sachamor (which the Dutch 
 for the sake of convenience will pervert into Sackemacher), 
 that is to say, lord, captain or chief, which all persons bear 
 who have any power or authority among them, especially 
 any government or rule over other persons and affairs, 
 and that name, it appeared to him, was used by others 
 to express God, more than by themselves; but the true 
 name by which they call this Supreme Being, the first 
 
 Milford, Guilford, and Branford in Connecticut, whence its name of Mil. 
 ford, which seems to have been applied to it for several years, although it 
 bore the name of Newark, in the town records, quite from the first. — Re- 
 cords of the Town of Newark, 4, 10. 
 
 Captain William Sandford, received his grant July 4, 1668, of all the 
 lands between the Hackingsack and Passaic rivers lying south of a line 
 drawn from one river to the other, seven miles north of their intersection. 
 This gentleman distinguished himself by declining any public office. His 
 tract of land was afterwards called New Barbadoes. — East Jersey under 
 the Proprietors, 47-8, 187-8. 
 
 Captain John Berry acquired his lands in June, 1669. 1 They adjoined 
 Sandford's, and extended north six miles into the country. — Ibid, 48. 
 
 Jacques Castelayne, as the reader has learned, was the Long Island 
 settler, Jaques Cortelyou. The error in his name was continued by Smith 
 in his History of New Jersey, as before noted, and no doubt from the au- 
 thority above cited. 
 
268 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 and great beginning of all things, was Kickeron or Kickerom, 
 who is the origin of all, who has not only once produced 
 or made all things, hut produces every day. All that we 
 see daily that is good, is from him; and everything he 
 makes and does is good. He governs all things, and no- 
 thing is done without his aid and direction. " And," he 
 continued, " I, who am a captain and Sakemaker among the 
 Indians, and also a medicine-man (as was all true), and 
 have performed many good cures among them, experience 
 every day that all medicines do not cure, if it do not please 
 him to cause them to work ; that he will cure one and not 
 another thereby; that sickness is bad, but he sends it upon 
 whom he pleases, because those upon whom he visits it 
 are bad ; but we did not have so much sickness and death 
 before, the Christians came into the country, who have 
 taught the people debauchery and excess; they are, there- 
 fore, much more miserable than they were before. The 
 devil who is wicked, instigates and urges them on, to all 
 kinds of evil, drunkenness and excess, to fighting and war, 
 and to strife and violence amongst themselves, by which 
 many men are wounded and killed. He thus does all 
 kind of evil to them." I told him I had conversed with 
 Jasper or Tantaqw, another old Indian, on the subject, from 
 whence all things had come, and he had told me they came 
 from a tortoise ; that this tortoise had brought forth the 
 world, or that all things had come from it ; that from the 
 middle of the tortoise there had sprung up a tree, upon 
 whose branches men. had grown. That was true, he 
 replied, but Kickeron made the tortoise, and the tortoise had 
 a power and a nature to produce all things, such as earth, 
 trees, and the like, which God wished through it to pro- 
 duce, or have produced. 
 
 It was now time to see if we could not take some rest in 
 a place not very well protected against the cold, and where 
 there was nothing to lie upon except the naked floor ; but 
 
AQUAKENONK. PASSAIC FALLS. 269 
 
 the negro wishing to favor my comrade and myself, showed 
 us a bunk (koy), in which there was nothing save a few 
 leaves of maize, and those thin enough. We lay down 
 there, but suffered greatly from the cold. We slept very 
 little, and lay shivering all night, and the slave sometimes 
 shaking us and waking us up. We were so stiff we could 
 not move ; but the nigbt passed on as well as it could, and 
 we rose early. It had rained, and we started at daylight to 
 the boat, and rowed into the stream. Gerrit grumbled 
 very much. He was a coarse, ignorant man, and had not 
 well calculated the tide. We went ashore about eight or half- 
 past eight to breakfast, and had great difficulty in making 
 a fire, for all the brush was wet through with the rain. 
 We were fortunate enough, however, at last, to succeed. 
 We took a walk for a short distance into the woods, which 
 were not the poorest. In the meanwhile, the ebb had run 
 out ; the water was calm, and taking a little of the flood, 
 we rowed on until we arrived at Ackquekenon, about one 
 o'clock in the afternoon. Ackquekenon is a tract of land 
 of about twelve thousand morgen, which Jaques of Najack, 
 with seven or eight associates, had purchased from the 
 Indians, the deed of which we have seen, and the entire price 
 of which amounted to one hundred or one hundred and fifty 
 guilders in Holland money, at the most. It is a fine piece 
 of land, the best tract of woodland that we have seen except 
 one at the south. It is not very abundant in wood, but it has 
 enough for building purposes and fuel. On one side of it 
 is the Northwest kil, which is navigable by large boats and 
 yachts thus far, but not beyond. On the other side, there 
 is a small creek by which it is almost entirely surrounded, 
 affording water sufficient, both summer and winter, to drive 
 several mills. 
 
 When we reached here, we took our provisions and 
 whatever was loose out of the boat into a hut of the 
 Indians, of whom there is only one family on this whole 
 
270 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 tract. We eat our dinner by their fire, and determined to 
 go in the afternoon to the falls, although it had already 
 began to rain. "We started oft' accordingly under the 
 guidance of Hans, the Indian. The rain gradually 
 increased, with snow, and did not hold up the whole day. 
 After we had traveled good three hours over high hills, we 
 came to a high rocky one, where we could hear the noise 
 of the water, and clambering up to the top, saw the falls 
 below us, a sight to be seen in order to observe the power 
 and wonder of God. Behind this hill the land is much 
 higher than on the other side, and continues so as far as is 
 known. A kil or river runs through this high land 
 between the hills, formed by several branches coming down 
 from still higher land. This river, running along the valley 
 to seek the sea, comes to this hill where it runs over a large 
 blue rock, which is broken in two, obliquely with the river. 
 One part is dry, which is the hill before mentioned; the 
 other is, where the river, running over a crevice or fissure 
 between both, appears to be eight or ten feet wide, having 
 on either side smooth precipices like walls, but some parts 
 broken between them. The river finding this chasm pours 
 all its water into it headlong from a height, according to 
 guess, of about eighty feet; and all this pouring water 
 must break upon the undermost piece of stone lying in the 
 crevice, which causes a great roaring and foaming, so that 
 persons standing there side by side, have to call out loud 
 before they can understand each other. By reason of the 
 breaking of the water, and the wind which the falling 
 water carries with it, there is constantly spray ascending 
 bike smoke, which scatters itself like rain. In this spray, 
 when the sun shines, the figure of a rainbow is constantly 
 to be seen trembling and shaking, and even appearing to 
 move the rock. The water in this fissure runs out on the 
 south ; and there at the end of the rock or point, it finds 
 a basin, which is the beginning of the lower kil. This 
 
LODGING IN A WIGWAM. 
 
 271 
 
 point, is, I judge, about one hundred feet above the water, 
 and is steep like an upright wall. When the fish come up 
 the river, this basin is so full of all kinds of them, that 
 you can catch them with your hands, because they are 
 stopped there, and collect together, refreshing themselves, 
 and sporting in and under the falling fresh water, which 
 brings with it from above, bushes, green leaves, earth and 
 mire, in which they find food. The water runs hence east 
 and northeast to Ackquekenon. The Indians come up this 
 river in canoes to fish, because it is one of the richest fish- 
 eries they have ; but the river is not navigable by larger 
 boats, though in case the country were settled, the naviga- 
 tion could be improved. The falls lie among high hills, 
 especially on the south, so that the sun does not penetrate 
 there well except in summer. We found heavy ice there 
 at this time, although it had all thawed away below. 
 When I saw this ice at a distance, I supposed it was the 
 foam. I took a sketch as well as I could, very hastily, 
 for we had no time, and it rained and snowed very 
 much. What I did, is not very happily done. I regret I 
 could not crayon it, for it is worth being portrayed. Night 
 coming on, we had to leave. We were very wet and cold, 
 especially in the feet. It was dark, and slippery walking 
 on such precipices, and crossing little streams. Tired 
 and weary, wet and dirty, we reached the place where we 
 had started from, about eight o'clock in the evening, and 
 went into the hu t of the Indians, having to-day rowed con- 
 stantly from early dawn until one or two o'clock, and then 
 walked, through heavy weather, twenty-four to twenty- 
 eight miles. 
 
 We endeavored to warm and dry ourselves in this cabin 
 as best we could. We could not stand up on account of 
 the smoke, and there were no means of sitting down unless 
 flat on the ground, which was very bad for us, on account 
 of our being so wet, but we did the best we could. We 
 
272 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 took our supper, and distributed some of our bread among 
 the Indians, with which they were as much pleased as 
 children with sweet cake. We gave each man four fish- 
 hooks, and the women and children each two. We also 
 gave them two small trumpets, and then they were great 
 nitaps or friends. We had to lie down there, and at first, 
 as long as it was warm, it went very well ; but the fire 
 being almost burned out, and the hut rather airy, and the 
 wind being no longer kept out by tbe heat in the opening, 
 through which the smoke escaped, we became stiff in the 
 knees, so that I could not, through weariness and cold, 
 move mine without great pain and difficulty. The longed- 
 for day came, and we went out in the snow to look through 
 the woods, and along the little stream, to see whether it 
 would be worth the trouble to erect a saw-mill there for 
 the purpose of sawing timber for sale, as Jaques had sup- 
 posed. But although we found the stream suitable for 
 mills, we did not discover proper wood sufficient for 
 the purpose. The soil seemed to promise good, and the 
 place is as well situated as it can be, to make a village or 
 city. The land on both sides of the Northwest kil is all 
 taken up, and the prospect is that the whole region will 
 soon be inhabited. It is already taken up on the south 
 side as high up as the falls. Eating our breakfast about 
 eight o'clock, we went on board of the boat, it being now 
 the 
 
 6th, Wednesday. We set off with a westerly wind, though 
 light and gusty. If the wind in this river do not come 
 straight from behind, you cannot derive much benefit from 
 it, in consequence of the land on both sides of it being so 
 high, and the bay so winding. The river is the pleasantest 
 we have yet seen. It is gratifying to look upon the con- 
 tinually changing views which present themselves in going 
 either up or down, with its evergreens of pine and cedar, 
 and other species, the names of which I do not know, and 
 
INDIAN DEBAUCH AT GOUANES. 
 
 273 
 
 its clean bottom and clear fresh water. We rowed and 
 sailed as well as we could, until the flood tide stopped us, 
 when we went ashore to eat our dinner, and make a good 
 fire to warm ourselves. When the ebb began to make, we 
 proceeded on our way. Our poor Indian who did nothing 
 in the boat, sat all the time benumbed with cold in his 
 poor little blanket. But as the day advanced, it was better. 
 The tide serving us, and the wind being stronger as we 
 came below the high land, we reached Adder kol before 
 evening, and set the Indian ashore at his hut, who told us 
 he would come and see us on Monday. It was calm, with 
 the wind more and more favorable, and we crossed over 
 the bay, and arrived at Gouanes bay about eight o'clock. 
 
 I had asked Hans, our Indian, what Christians they, 
 the Indians, had first seen in these parts. He answered 
 the first were Spaniards or Portuguese, from whom they 
 obtained the maize or Spanish or Turkish wheat, but they 
 did not remain here long. Afterwards the Dutch came 
 into the South river and here, on Noten island, 1 a small 
 island lying directly opposite the fort at New York, and to 
 Fort Orange or Albany, and after them the English came 
 for the first, who, nevertheless, always disputed the first 
 possession. But since the country has been taken several 
 times by the one and the other, the dispute is ended in 
 regard to the right of ownership, as it is now a matter of 
 conquest. 
 
 When we arrived at Gouanes, we heard a great noise, 
 shouting and singing in the huts of the Indians, who as 
 we mentioned before, were living there. They were all 
 lustily drunk, raving, striking, shouting, jumping, fighting 
 each other, and foaming at the mouth like raging wild 
 beasts. Some who did not participate with them, had fled 
 with their wives and children to Simon's house, where the 
 drunken brutes followed, bawling in the house and before 
 
 1 Governor's island. 
 
 35 
 
274 
 
 THE HUDSON AND JTS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 the door, which we finally closed. And this was caused hy 
 Christians. It makes me blush to call hy that holy name 
 those who live ten times worse than these most barbarous 
 Indians and heathen, not only in the eyes of those who 
 can discriminate, but according to the testimony of these 
 poor Indians themselves. What do I say, the testimony of 
 the Indians ! Yes, I have not conversed with an European 
 or a native born, the most godless and the best, who has 
 not fully and roundly acknowledged it, but they have not 
 acknowledged it salutarily, and much less desisted, disre- 
 garding all convictions external and internal, notwithstand- 
 ing all the injury which springs therefrom, not only among 
 the Indians, but others, as we will show in its proper place. 
 How will they escape the terrible judgment of God ; how 
 evade the wrath and anger of the Lord and King, Jesus, 
 whom they have so dishonored and defamed, and caused 
 to be defamed among the heathen ? Just judgment is their 
 damnation. But I must restrain myself, giving God all 
 judgment and wrath, and keeping only what he causes us 
 to feel therefor. Such are the fruits of the cursed cupidity 
 of those who call themselves Christians for the very little 
 that these poor naked people have. Simon and his wife 
 also do their best in the same way, although we spoke to 
 them severely on the subject. They brought forward this 
 excuse, that if they did not do it, others would, and then 
 they would have the trouble and others the profit ; but if 
 they must have the trouble, they ought to have the profit, 
 and so they all said, and for the most part falsely, for they 
 all solicit the Indians as much as they can, and after begging 
 their money from them, compel them to leave their blankets, 
 leggings, and coverings of their bodies in pawn, yes, their 
 guns and hatchets, the very instruments by which they 
 obtain their subsistence. This subject is so painful and 
 so abominable, that I will forbear saying any thing more 
 for the present. 
 
OPTICS. THE RIVER OPEN. 
 
 275 
 
 These Indians had canticoycd (geJdntekayt) there to-day, that 
 is, conjured the devil, and liberated a woman among them, 
 who was possessed by him, as they said ; and indeed, as 
 they told us, it had that appearance, but I have never seen 
 it. 1 
 
 We fared better this night than the last, and whether 
 from fatigue or other reasons, slept soundly. 
 
 7th, Thursday. We had intended to go to Najaeq, to 
 Jaques's, and afterwards to Elbert's in the bay, in order to 
 report to them how we had found their land, but Gerrit 
 having promised his father-in-law some firewood, he had to 
 take Simon's boat for the purpose, and Simon's wife also 
 had some errands in the city. We, therefore, determined 
 to go with them as we did, leaving Grouanes at ten o'clock, 
 and seeing the Indians putting up their huts which they had 
 entirely thrown down during their intoxication, although 
 it was not much trouble, as it was not much to make 
 them. With a tolerably fair wind we reached the city at 
 noon, where we gave ourselves up to rest. 
 
 We wished now to make a voyage to the Nevesinkx, 
 JRentselaer's Hoeck, and Sant Hock, but we could find no 
 opportunity, for the reason that this route is very little 
 navigated in the winter and spring, because it is somewhat 
 dangerous. Meanwhile, the weather continued very vari- 
 able ; sometimes we had frost and severe cold, then rain 
 and snow, wind and squalls, until the time of the sun's 
 
 1 The Canticoy appears to have been a dance which the Indians practiced 
 on various occasions. Denton calls it, " a dancing match, where all per- 
 sons that came were freely entertained, it being a festival time." Brief 
 Jjrsrrijitioit of Nap York, 11. Jacobus Koelman, a Dutch writer, who 
 seems to have seen it, alludes to it in speaking of the dances of the 
 Labadists, as a religious exercise. " I am well aware," he says, " his- 
 torically of the religious dances of the devotees among the Turks, called 
 demises, and that in the West Indies in New Netherland, a religious dance 
 is performed by the heathen, when they go after the dead, which in their 
 language they call kintekan,n$ I well remember." — Ilistorisrh Verhaal, 105. 
 
276 
 
 THE HUDSON AM) ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 crossing the line, when it began to become warm, but con- 
 tinned still variable, though it improved daily. 
 
 20th, W<</iirsf/«i/. While my comrade sat writing, he 
 observed a change in his vision, being able to see better 
 than before, when he had to look extremely close in writing. 
 It happened thus : writing as he was accustomed to do, his 
 sight in an instant became entirely obscured, so that he had 
 to stop, not being able to write any more. Not knowing 
 what it was, he shut his eyes and rubbed them, as they 
 usually do when any thing obstructs the sight, and then 
 undertook to write as he had done before, but yet he could 
 not see well ; when raising his head higher from the paper, 
 he saw much clearer than when he had to look close to it. 
 Had he kept his eves up so high before, he would scarcely 
 have been able to see at all. You could also perceive that 
 his writing was different afterwards. 
 
 A yacht arrived down the river from the Hysopus, from 
 which they learned the navigation was open, though boats 
 going up would have to tug through the ice. It brought 
 news of the death of the minister, Domine Grdesbeek, a 
 Cocceian, which had caused great sorrow. They had deter- 
 mined to call another minister from Holland, or Tessemaker 
 from the south. They had built a new church in the Hyso- 
 pus, of which the glass had been made and painted in the 
 city, by the father of our mate, Evert Duiken, whose other 
 son, Gerrit, did most of the work. 1 This Gerrit Duiken had 
 to take the glass to the Hysojms, and having heard we had 
 a mind to go there, he requested our company, which we 
 
 1 Evert Dnykinck, who came early to New Netherland, and was in the 
 employment of the West India Company, at the fort Good Hope, on the 
 Connecticut, at the time of the troubles with the English there in 1640, 
 was a glazier by trade. By the phrase, making the glass, we apprehend 
 glazing is all that is meant by our journalist. His son, Gerrit, was an 
 adherent of Leisler, and a member of his council. O'Callaghan's Cal- 
 endar of Dutch Manuscripts, 44, 326. 
 
A START FOR NEVESINK. 
 
 277 
 
 would not refuse him when the time came. He promised 
 to teach me how to draw. 
 
 23d, Saturday. The first boat arrived from Fort Orange 
 to-day, bringing scarcely any news except that a great num- 
 ber of Indians had died in the early part of the winter of 
 small pox, and a large party of them had gone south to make 
 war against the Indians of Carolina, beyond Virginia, for 
 which reason the hunting of beaver had not been good, 
 and there would be a great scarcity of peltries this year, 
 which was the chief trade of ~New Netherland, especially 
 in this quarter. 
 
 There was something published and posted by this 
 government to-day against that of New Jersey or Adder 
 kol, but I do not know precisely what it was. 1 We found 
 to-day an opportunity to go to Nevesinck. An Englishman 
 who had a little boat, and small enough, was going on Mon- 
 day without fail, and he had, he said, about sixteen pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 24tth, Sunday, and 25th, Monday. It stormed hard from the 
 northwest, and he could not go, but he came to tell us he 
 would give us notice when he would sail. 
 
 26th, Tuesday. He came and told us he would leave next 
 day at sunrise, and in passing by the house, he would come 
 in and call us. 
 
 27^/?, Wednesday. We waited for him from an early hour, 
 but it was nearly ten o'clock before we saw him. We 
 went to his boat which was poor enough, very small, light, 
 and lank, though it had been repaired some ; it had an old 
 sail and piece of a foresail, and yet this captain was as 
 
 •This was the proclamation of Governor Andros against Governor 
 Carteret's assuming to exercise the powers of governor of East Jersey, to be 
 found in Leaning and Bpicer's Grants and Concessions of New Jersey, G75. 
 We are enabled to identify it from th* date, which is the 13th of March 
 old style, corresponding with that of our journalist, who adopts the new 
 style, which had already been introduced at that time into Holland. 
 
278 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 stern and arrogant with his boat, as if it were a ship-of- 
 war. We waited there for the passengers, but they had 
 melted away to three, my comrade, myself and one other 
 person. We started about eleven o'clock with a good 
 wind and tide, though it was almost low water. When 
 we reached the Narrows [tic lion/dan, the wind veered 
 round to the southeast, which was against us. We dis- 
 covered the boat to be so leaky that she had a foot or two of 
 water in her, which he sought to excuse, but every word 
 he said on the subject was untrue. The pump was stopped 
 up, and we had to help him clear it out, which was accom- 
 plished after much trouble and bungling. We cleared it 
 out, but we had that to do three times, because in repair- 
 ing the boat they had left all the chips and pieces of wood 
 lying in the hold between the planks, and when we 
 pumped, this stuff would continually obstruct the pump, 
 though we succeeded in getting out most of the water. 
 Meanwhile the wind changed to the south and southwest, 
 with which there was every prospect of getting outside. 
 We tacked about and reached Coney ( Conynen) island, a 
 low, sandy island, lying on the east side of the entrance 
 from the sea. We came to anchor under its outermost 
 point, when we should have gone inside of Sandy Hook 
 (Scent Iloeck), in a creek, as we were able yet to do ; but he 
 said, we must go outside of Sandy Hook, round by sea, and 
 then make for a creek there. I began now to have other 
 thoughts. To put to sea in such a light, low, decayed and 
 small boat, with rotten sails, and an inexperienced skipper, 
 and that at night, did not suit me very well. The sea began 
 already to roll round the point of Coney island, and I appre- 
 hended bad weather from pain in my breast and other indi- 
 cations. He said the place where we were lying was 
 entirely shoal, and he, therefore, dared not go near the 
 shore, as there was only eight or ten feet water. But he 
 was much mistaken, for when he let the anchor fall, it ran 
 
CONEY ISLAND. THE LOWER BAY. 
 
 279 
 
 out six fathoms of rope before it struck the bottom. I had 
 seated myself all the time at the helm, and observed he was 
 a miserable person. It was then about half flood, and 
 having put things somewhat in order, he asked us if we 
 would go ashore with him. I said yes, and I did so for the 
 purpose of ascertaining how the westerly point of this 
 island was situated on the sea entrance. My comrade and 
 the other passenger having no wish to go, remained on 
 board. Upon reaching the shore, we saw immediately a 
 large ship coming up the bay from Sandy Hook, which we 
 supposed to be Margaret's ship, which she had left to be 
 repaired at Falmouth, as we have before mentioned. I 
 wondered why our skipper did not return on board, but he 
 not only remained ashore, and left his boat with two 
 inexperienced persons, but he had not hauled up on the 
 beach his small canoe in which we came ashore, or made it 
 fast. I went with him along the strand, on the sea side, 
 and saw that, close by Coney island, a strong flood tide was 
 running, which was pressed between the east bank and the 
 island, and that led us to think there was an opening there 
 through which you could sail out and in, which is the fact, 
 as I was afterwards informed by one who was very well 
 acquainted with the place ; but it is only deep enough for 
 boats, yachts, and other small craft. This island, on the 
 sea side, is a meadow or marsh intersected by several kils 
 or creeks. It is not large, being about half an hour or 
 three quarters long, and stretching nearly east and west. 
 It is sandy and uninhabited. They generally let their 
 horses run upon it to feed, as they cannot get off" of it. We 
 found good oysters in the creek inside, and eat some of 
 them, but seeing his carelessness, I could not remain longer 
 from the boat, as the canoe might be carried off, on the 
 rise of tbe water, by the tide or the wind, and my comrade 
 and the other passenger who was sea-sick, not know what 
 to do, the more so, looking at the inexperience and care- 
 
280 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLIEXTS. 
 
 lessness of the captain. I, therefore, hurried to the hoat, 
 running 1 across the island. On the inside of the island, I 
 found a sandy elevation like a dune or high dyke winch 
 hecame gradually lower towards Loug Island, and that is 
 all which shows itself here. This elevation is on the land 
 side, and is mostly covered with hollies, which, according 
 to my recollection, I have never seen growing in this region 
 except on dry and very fine sand. When we reached the 
 canoe, it was not only afloat, hut it had been thrown across 
 the beach by the sea, and was full of water. If it had 
 moved off, we certainly would have been at a loss. The 
 water being high, the sea came rolling in heavily around 
 the point into the bay, and caused the boat lying in the 
 current, which ran strong here, to pitch greatly. We were 
 even fearful about getting on board again, for the canoe 
 could scarcely hold us both. I told him to go on board 
 first, and bring the boat nearer the shore, and then he 
 could take me aboard, but he would not do so, we must go 
 on board together. We, therefore, both went into it, and 
 reached the boat, though it was very dangerous. As soon 
 as we came aboard, our skipper spoke about leaving there, 
 as we could not lie there well. I asked him where he would 
 go to. lie said to the city, which I did not much oppose, 
 and was secretly glad of, seeing it was from the Lord. We, 
 therefore, had to abandon our design of going to the Neve- 
 sinckx at this time. The large ship which we had seen, 
 sailed before us ; and we found that we had not been mis- 
 taken in our supposition, as it was the same vessel we had 
 left iu Falmouth. It commenced blowing hard in the 
 evening, and we had as much as we could stand, but we 
 reached the city while it was yet in the evening, very much 
 rejoiced. 
 
 28th, Thursday, and 29th, Friday. There was a severe 
 storm, accompanied with much rain, from the south-east, 
 it being about new moon. Certainly, if we did not see in 
 
GOVERNOR ANDROS. 
 
 281 
 
 this, the continual care of the Lord, in his providence, we 
 were worse than heasts, for it was too manifest not to be 
 touched by it. He gives us grace only to lose ourselves 
 more and more in him, and to offer ourselves up to his 
 service. 
 
 30th, Sunday. The storm continued the whole day. 
 
 31st, Monday. We determined to make a journey to 
 Albany the first opportunity, but this could not be done 
 without the special permission of the governor. Although 
 a regulation exists that no one shall go up there unless 
 he has been three years in the country, that means for the 
 purpose of carrying on trade ; for a young man who came 
 over with us from Holland, proceeded at once to Albany, 
 and continues to reside there. We went accordingly to 
 request permission of the governor. After we had waited 
 two or three hours, his excellency came in and received 
 us kindly. "We made our request, which he neither refused 
 nor granted, but said he would take it into consideration. 
 Meanwhile, we inquired after vessels of which there were 
 plenty going up this time of year. 
 
 April 2d, Wednesday. We went again to the lord go- 
 vernor for permission, who received us after he had dined. 
 He inquired for what purpose we wished to go above ; to 
 which we answered, we had come here to see the country, 
 its nature and fertility ; and that we had heard there were 
 fine lands above, such as Schoonechten, Rentselaerswyck, and 
 the Hyso-pus. " Those are all small places," he said, " and 
 are all taken possession of ; but I am ashamed I did not 
 think of this." He then requested us to come some morn- 
 ing and dine with him, when he would talk with us. We 
 thanked him, and took our leave, reflecting whether it 
 would be advisable to trouble his excellency any more about 
 the matter, as it was not of such great importance to us, 
 and he, perhaps, considered it of more moment than we 
 did. We then felt inclined to leave the country the very 
 36 
 
282 
 
 Tin-: iiudson and its affluents. 
 
 first opportunity, as we had nothing more to do here, and 
 it was the very best time of year to make a voyage. As 
 we had some of our goods left after we were forbidden to 
 sell any more, we went to see if we eould get rid of what 
 we had kept for Ephraim. As there was no prospect of 
 seeing him, we proposed to do the best we could with one 
 of our neighbors, named Cornells van Kb if, to whom my 
 comrade had spoken, and who was inclined to trade. He 
 entered into negotiations, but was a little timorous. We 
 offered to let him examine the bills of the persons from 
 whom we had bought the goods, and also of the freight 
 and custom-house duties, and he should give us an advance 
 of thirty per cent on their amount ; or, he might see what 
 they were worth, and could be sold for, and we would 
 divide the profits equally with him. After he had looked 
 at them, he did not dare to take them himself alone, but 
 said he would bring another person, in order that with the 
 two of them, they could make it safe. He did not say he 
 had no means of payment, though he did remark he had 
 no peltries, which we would willingly have taken in pay- 
 ment. The other person had the means to pay. We told 
 him we would wait until de la Grange returned from the 
 South river ; that I had spoken to his wife on the subject, 
 and that he was expected back every day ; at all events, that 
 we would wait until we had spoken to some other person. 
 Van Kleif's wife, however, took some fine thread, ribbons, 
 pins, and what she wanted for herself. 
 
 7th, Sunday. M. de la Grange arrived home from the 
 South river, and came with his wife in the afternoon to visit 
 us, both being under concern of mind. We addressed to 
 them what we thought necessary. He stated he had agreed 
 with his nephew to go in partnership with him, and could 
 not withdraw therefrom, unless God did something special. 
 They both hoped that God would have pity upon them. 
 
 We spoke of the remnant of our little stock, and of the 
 
GOVERNOR OF CONNECTICUT. 
 
 283 
 
 time advancing when we must be rid of it, so as to be 
 prepared to leave the country. He said as soon as the boat, 
 which he had chartered, returned from the South river, in 
 which he had some peltries, we would see what we could 
 do with each other. 
 
 8th, Monday. Van Kleif came to examine the goods 
 again. He had the disposition, but not the means to buy, 
 and wished to bring still another person to make the pur- 
 chase, whom he named, and who was one of the most 
 miserly persons in the city, which was not agreeable to us. 
 We, therefore, told him we had already spoken to M. de la 
 Grange. 
 
 10th, Wednesday. The boat of de la Grange arrived from 
 the South river, bringing a letter for us from Ephraim, in 
 which he informed us of his intention to come and visit us 
 the last of April or the first of May, which we much desired. 
 
 The governor of Hartford, a place situated to the north, 
 arrived in the city from the West Indies. Our governor 
 entertained him nobly, and parted with him with great 
 civility. 
 
 Two vessels sailed for Boston, where we much desired to 
 go, but we were not prepared. The governor investigated 
 whether either of them had taken any thing on board 
 below the city. 
 
 We left a small piece of bx-own serge, which stood us in 
 rather dear, but was very fine and strong, and which on 
 account of its high price, we had not been able to dispose 
 of, to be cut up for a coat, waistcoat and breeches for both 
 of us, with fur in front, so that almost the whole piece was 
 used, de la Grange taking the remnant, with which he was 
 much pleased, for a coat, because he did not know where 
 to obtain such goods in this country. Meanwhile, the 
 barter of our few goods was going on with him at the rate 
 of fifty per cent profit on the invoices, upon which con- 
 dition he took almost all of them. 
 
284 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 12th, Saturday. We called upon the governor, and re- 
 quested permission to leave. He spoke to us kindly, and 
 asked us to come the next day after preaching, thus' pre- 
 venting our request. 
 
 Uth t Sunday. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we 
 went to the lord governor, who was still engaged, at our 
 arrival, in the Common Prayer { but as soon as it was finished, 
 he came and spoke to us, even before we had spoken to 
 him, and said of a person who was with him, " This is 
 Captain Deyer, 1 to whom I have given directions to write 
 a permit or passport for you to go to Albany." He again 
 asked us where we came from, and where we lived, which 
 we told him. 1 [e also inquired something ajxmt the prince 
 of Friesland, and the princess, and also about the differ- 
 ences of the people of Friesland and his Royal Highness and 
 their High Mightinesses, which we told him. We then 
 thanked him for his favor, and said the object of our visit 
 was not only to ask permission to go up the river, but also 
 to leave the country. He thereupon stated that there 
 would be no boat going to Boston for two or three weeks, 
 but he intended to send one himself soon to Penncquieq, 
 which was at our service, and we could easily get to' 
 Boston from there by a fishing boat or some other vessel. 
 We thanked him for the honor and kindness he had shown 
 us, and further inquired of him whether it would be ne- 
 cessary to have a passport at our departure. He replied 
 no. We inquired, also, whether it would be necessary 
 to post up our names, as there is an established regulation 
 that it should be done six weeks before leaving. To this 
 he replied, if we were merchants, and owed any body, it 
 
 1 William Dyer, gent., was commissioned by the Duke of York in 1674 
 collector of the customs at New York, in which capacity he acted during 
 Andres's first term as governor of the province. He was mayor of New 
 1 ork in 1680-1.— New York Colonial History, III, 221, 304 
 
A BARTER. JACOB SWARTS FAMILY. 
 
 285 
 
 would be proper to do so, and then asked if such was the 
 case with either of us. We answered no ; then, he con- 
 tinued, it is not necessary. Tor all which we thanked his 
 excellency, and took our leave. 
 
 Reflecting upon this matter, we thought whether it would 
 not be more respectful to make the voyage to Albany, than 
 to leave, since we had several times requested permission 
 to do so, and he had now granted it. Should we not go, 
 it would, perhaps, not be well received by him, the more 
 so as there would not be any vessel going to Boston for 
 some weeks. Nevertheless, it was not bad that we had 
 shown his excellency it was not so important to us that we 
 could not let it pass. 
 
 lbth, Monday. We went in search of a boat to go to 
 Albany, and found one ready to leave immediately. The 
 name of the skipper was Ileus 1 Hoogboom, to whom we 
 agreed to pay, for the passage up and down, one beaver, 
 that is, twenty-five guilders in zeewant, for each of us, and 
 find ourselves. We gave him our names, to have them 
 inserted in the passport. 
 
 Meanwhile we disposed of all our goods to M. de la 
 Grange, upon the terms before mentioned, and received in 
 pay peltries of every description. But, as we were not 
 experienced in merchandise, and much less in peltries, we 
 deemed it proper to have what we received, examined and 
 valued against the goods sold, by Van Kleif, before 
 named. He valued some of the peltries much less than 
 they had been charged to us. But as there are few 
 merchants who do not hatchel each other a little, so stand- 
 ing near this merchant you could see he was not free from 
 this feeling, and you would believe, if he had owned our 
 goods and been free to receive payment for them, in such 
 kind of pay, he would have valued them much higher. 
 
 1 Meus is a contraction of Bartholomeus. 
 
286 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 However, there were three beavers among them which 
 were not current; these Mr. de la Grange cheerfully took 
 back, as they were not his, but had been borrowed by hirn 
 of his nephew, in consequence of his not having enough of 
 his own. 
 
 He was about to return to the South river, in order to 
 bring on more goods, which he had there. His wife was 
 going with him, to see if she would live there; for she 
 seemed to take the subject to heart of separating herself 
 from the sinful attachments of the world, giving up trade, 
 and going to live upon the land and out of the land. His 
 nephew was also going with them, for a pleasure trip, and 
 to see the country, and especially to learn the way of 
 trading. They were to leave this evening, having already 
 dispatched the boat on Monday last. 
 
 Kith, Tin ■«/"//. Before we proceed any further, I must 
 here insert a very remarkable circumstance, for the comfort 
 and joy of God's children, who rejoice with the holy and 
 blessed angels over the repentance of one poor great 
 sinner, more than over ninety and nine just men, who 
 need no repentance. The old man and his wife with whom 
 we lodged had several children, the husband and wife each 
 three by former marriages, and one between themselves. 
 The husband's children by his former wife were two 
 daughters and one son. One of the daughters was married 
 to Gerrit, the wheelwright, who had married her in New 
 Netherland, but upon the first change in the government 
 [1GG4], she left for Holland, and he followed her there after 
 a little time, and kept house at Zwolle ; but not being able, 
 after several years, to succeed very well in the Netherlands, 
 he came back in the same ship with us, leaving his wife 
 and children behind at Zwolle. Finding matters go on 
 here to his wishes, he sent for his family by Captain Jacob, 
 of the ship Beaver. This is Gerrit the wheelwright, or 
 carpenter, whom we have mentioned several times in our 
 
A REMARKABLE CONVERSION. 
 
 287 
 
 journal. Another daughter lived still at Amsterdam, for 
 whom he has given us several messages and a letter to take 
 when we leave. His son is a carpenter in the East Indies. 
 The children of the old woman were a daughter named 
 Geesie, married here, in New York, to one Peter Denis, 1 
 weighmaster; another daughter, named Rebecca, was also 
 married here with one Arie, 2 who gained his livelihood by 
 cultivating land and raising cattle, hut kept a tavern, or 
 drinking house, having a situation therefor, and living upon 
 a delightful spot at the Vers Water (Fresh Water), a little out 
 of town ; and a son, named Theunis, 3 who was married 
 and had six children, and who supported himself by farm- 
 ing at Sapokanike. The old couple had one child between 
 them, named Willem, now about twenty-three years old, a 
 carpenter by trade, a little rough and coarse, but otherwise 
 not an unjust kind of a person, according to the world. 
 He lived at home with his parents, where we lodged. He 
 was somewhat wronged in his inheritance, as the old 
 people acknowledged, and we reproved them for it. 
 They promised amendment. 
 
 JSTow the before named Theunis had led a very godless 
 life, and had been wild and reckless, extraordinarily 
 covetous, addicted to cursing and swearing, and despising 
 all religious things ; but he was not a drunkard, nor was 
 
 1 Peter Denyse ; who was farmer of the weigh house. He died soon 
 after this time. — O'Callaghari'a Calendar of English Manuscripts, 66, 96. 
 
 2 Arie, or Adrian Cornelisen, who; with Rebecca Idensen, his wife, was, 
 according to Domine Selyn's list of church members, still residing in 
 168G, over the Fresh Water, afterwards called the Kolk, and now Centre 
 street. He was living there as early as 1G64. Calendar of DutcJi Manu- 
 acripts, 265. For his children, see New York Manual, of 1863, p. 753. It was 
 to his house the travelers went on the first Sunday afternoon after their 
 arrival in New York. 
 
 3 Theunis Idensen. The names and times of baptism of his six children 
 are given in New York Manual of 1863, p. 779. 
 
288 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 he unchaste, though he previously had taken something that 
 did not belong to him. In a word, he was ignorant of the 
 truth and a godless man, yet his evil and wickedness were 
 more in the spirit than in the flesh. Nevertheless, it appears 
 that God had purposes of grace in regard to him, and the 
 time was approaching when God would touch him and 
 draw him to him. He had long since felt his conscience 
 gnawing him for his godless life, and that with a strength 
 which very much increased his chagrin. He became 
 meagre in body, his eyes were sunken in his head, he was 
 sombre of speech, he sought solitude in order to fly from 
 the evil, but found it was augmented manifold; and 
 gradually began to long for deliverance and a better life. 
 The devil had been assailing him for six years past, and he 
 was, therefore, in a miserable state, of both soul and body. 
 Thus he was, when, by God's providence, we arrived in the 
 country, and went to lodge at his mother's house, as we have 
 related. We had been at the house only two or three 
 days, when he also came there. I was writing in the front 
 room, and my comrade was with me. He heard us talking 
 together about God, and the Christian life in general, 
 which, so affected him, that he said to himself, "0, God! 
 what men are these ? Where did they come from ? Are 
 there such people still in the world ? " This he told us 
 afterwards. However, it took such hold of his heart, that 
 he more earnestly resolved to reform his life, while the 
 devil, being more displeased, assailed him the more 
 violently. His wife was a very ill-natured women, scolding, 
 growling, cursing and swearing at him, as well as at their 
 children, and constantly finding fault with him, through 
 her avarice, because he did not do more work, although 
 he wrought continually, and as much as three other men. 
 Their children, collectively, were very bad and saucy, and 
 cursed and swore at each other, except the oldest, a 
 daughter, who appeared to be the best of them. This 
 
A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES. 
 
 289 
 
 man being in such a state was pressed on all sides. He 
 sometimes, but not often, came to our bouse, and as we 
 knew nothing of bis condition, we only addressed to him, 
 occasionally, a general remark. However, his time and 
 that of the Lord were approaching. He heard a sermon 
 upon the requisites of communicants of the Lord's supper, 
 which he had never, as yet, enjoyed; and was thrown 
 very much aback, abhorring himself and many others, 
 who went to it, yet pursued as wicked lives as he did. For 
 bimself, he saw no probability of his ever being able to 
 partake of it, conscious as he was of his being wicked 
 and unworthy. He saw no means of release, and found 
 no help or consolation wherever he went or came. To 
 go to his minister, would, he thought, render him little 
 good, as he knew by several examples. He kept his 
 condition concealed from us, and did not dare speak to us, 
 so that he was in distress for himself, his family, and his 
 entire state, and often wishing to die. This caused him to 
 live in continual variance and quarrelling with his 
 neighbors. He lost several cows and other cattle, by 
 which he suffered great damage. A little daughter, about 
 fourteen years old, who lived with her grandmother, was 
 so badly ruptured, that there was no probability of her 
 being cured, or ever being fit to be married. He had 
 bought a piece of land, in common with Arie, his brother- 
 in-law, to make tillable land out of the rough woods. It 
 was to him like dead fruit. He worked on it three times 
 as much as the other did, in felling and chopping trees, 
 and making the best of it into timber, which was carried 
 to the city with little or no profit to him, but to the people 
 to whom Arie was indebted. Differences arose between 
 them as to the land and labor, and it was, therefore, 
 proposed to divide it, and separate; but, as has been 
 before mentioned, they had begun to clear off a part of it, 
 and they could not agree which should have the cleared 
 37 
 
2!J0 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 land, where he had bestowed so much labor. Great 
 bitterness sprung out of it, when the mother and friends 
 interposed, and settled the difficulty as well as they could. 
 Theunis obtained the cleared land on condition he should 
 make some indemnity to the other; and a part of the land, 
 where he had worked like a mole, and bought and paid 
 for, should be given up by him. He had a very large and 
 beautiful canoe, which was worth much to him, and had 
 been very serviceable to him ; this was entirely dashed to 
 pieces by a northwest storm, as Sapocanihh, where he 
 resided and the canoe lay, makes with this wind a flat lee 
 shore. Although his neighbors could have prevented the 
 breaking of the canoe, if they had done as they ought to 
 hare done, they had not at least attempted to prevent it. He 
 had a fine large negro, a slave, whom he had long possessed, 
 and taught to work and speak good Dutch ; who had done him 
 great service, and he had much love for him. The negro 
 was riding on horse-back, when the horse ran away with 
 him, and he fell and was injured internally in the breast. 
 He became sick, supposing it was a cold^ and died in a 
 few days. This event caused great sorrow to him, his 
 wife, and his whole family, as also to all his friends; for it 
 was a severe blow and damage to him. He was once 
 working in the field, and his wife was called to help one 
 of the cows which was sick and in a bad condition. This 
 happened eight or ten times at night as well as in the day, 
 whereby he and his wife had no rest night or day. He 
 was on one occasion attending her, when word came to 
 them that one of their little daughters had fallen dead in 
 the barn, and indeed they knew no better, for she lay in a 
 swoon as if dead; at which they were all much frightened 
 and out of their senses. Thus he had one blow after 
 another. The child, who was about nine or ten years old, 
 came to, when they thought her arm was broken, or at 
 least her shoulder out of joint, for she had fallen from a 
 
POSSESSED BY THE EVIL ONE. 
 
 291 
 
 great height. She was brought in that condition to her 
 grandmother's, at our lodgings, to be cured, which was 
 effected after some time. He has also had several mishaps 
 in the woods in chopping and felling trees ; and had about 
 this time an accident which broke him down. Having 
 felled a tree, it remained hanging with its branches in the 
 limbs of another one, and in endeavoring to pull it out his 
 whole hand was] crushed so that all his fingers festered. 
 This happened shortly after the others. All these mis- 
 fortunes depressed this poor man very much, and daily 
 increased his anguish. He could not sleep, and found rest 
 nowhere. He did nothing but sigh and complain of 
 inward trouble. When we heard all these things, we said 
 several times to each other, the Lord has certainly some 
 intention in regard to this man and this household : the 
 Lord visits this man ; although we did not doubt there 
 was something of the evil one. 
 
 About this time he came to our house, and we embraced 
 the opportunity to speak to him, which we did with great 
 earnestness and affection, by which he was strengthened, 
 and went home contented. But it did not continue long. 
 He became very much disturbed and troubled. He went 
 in the fields to plough, and the horses began to neigh and 
 bellow, and would not stand still an instant, springing and 
 jumping, entangling themselves together, foaming and 
 fuming so that he did not know what course to pursue. 
 As to himself, he became so frightened and perplexed, so 
 confused tbat he did not know what he did or where he 
 was ; he was bewildered, and his whole understanding lost ; 
 he was like one blind ; he wanted to go to the house, and 
 ran hither and thither, through water and everywhere, 
 his hat off his head, and across the fields, and thus reached 
 home. His wife and children were frightened because he 
 looked so horrible and disfigured. He demanded a rope 
 and wanted to harm himself, for he said he could live no 
 
292 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 longer. The wife and children cried ; neighbors were sent 
 for; one of the children brought the grandmother and 
 Rebecca, his sister, from the city. This was on Tuesday, 
 the 16th of April, in the afternoon. My comrade was in 
 the front room when the news came, though there were 
 no particulars. He came to me in the hack room sorrow- 
 ful, and said to me, vous ne savez que k malm a eu possession sur 
 noetre pauvre homme. What man ? I asked. " Our Theu- 
 uis," he replied, "word came that he had hanged himself, 
 and afterwards that they did not know whether he was 
 alive." We were alarmed; the old woman, his mother, 
 had gone to him; and after waiting a little time, we also' 
 determined to go, and as we wee a little quicker on foot 
 we reached Sapocamks almost as soon as she did. As we 
 approached the house we heard the lamentations of the 
 women and children, and on entering we found there no 
 one, except the mother, the sister Rebecca, and a female 
 neighbor who was a fans pieuse. As soon as we came in, 
 he stood up and came to meet us, holding out his hand,' 
 and calling out : " Friends, is there still grace with God[ 
 is there still grace for me with God?" We grasped his 
 hand and said: "Yes, there is grace for you with God, 
 and for all repentant sinners." He exclaimed, " What 
 wickedness have I committed ! how have I sinned ! how 
 have I stolen God's honor, his name profaned with vile 
 oaths, his sabbaths violated, his word despised! how godless 
 have I lived, and run from him ! But he has overtaken 
 me. How has the devil troubled and tempted me, how 
 has he for six years assailed me, seeing that I no longer 
 wished to serve him ! And now when God comes & to 
 touch me and draw me, he seeks to devour me; but he 
 shall not have me. God who protects me is stronger than 
 he," and much more of similar import. We then spoke 
 to him according to his state and condition, which did him 
 much good. This pieuse prated also after her manner, but 
 
WORDS OF ADVICE. 
 
 293 
 
 we tempered her down a little. She had urged him very 
 strongly to go and sit down and read I know not what 
 kind of a hook ; for, she said, she had also been in such a 
 state, and that reading had done her much good. She 
 was much astonished at our saying he should not read, 
 which could be done afterwards, and would benefit him 
 when he should be well and quiet, and felt a desire and 
 longing for it ; that he should now, if he could, go to work 
 at what had to be done or he had an inclination to do, 
 whether in the barn among the grain or in the stalls 
 among the cattle, or any other necessary work. We 
 exhorted him to put his trust in God, to pray to him and 
 cleave to him ; the devil would then have no more power 
 over him, as this perhaps was his last attack. He said, " I 
 fear him no more, God will protect me ; I feel more tran- 
 quil, I will not yield." We told him what he must do in 
 future. He answered, " I hope and trust it will go well." 
 He thanked us very much and added, " Friends you are 
 the cause that I still live and of my preservation." We 
 told him it was God to whom he must give the honor and 
 thank for his grace and mercy ; and that we would perhaps 
 call the next day, if we did not leave, at which he was 
 glad. We wanted to give a strong admonition to his wife 
 and children, for they had great need of it, and in order 
 that a greater impression might be made upon them by 
 this circumstance. Returning home we were atfected by the 
 grace of God towards a poor sinner, who truly told us things 
 from the bottom of his heart which were from God and 
 his Spirit, according to his word and our experience. In 
 leaving we told his wife how she must keep her eye on 
 him, and conduct herself towards him. 
 
 17th, Wednesday. We went to inquire whether the boat 
 was going up the river to-day, but it could not be got ready. 
 In the afternoon we went to visit Theunis again, whom we 
 found at home quiet and calm. He received us kindly, and 
 
204 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 we asked him how he was. Very well, he said, " I am as 
 much relieved as if I had a great burden taken from my shoul- 
 ders." He had rested well during the night. We praised 
 God, and exhorted him to perseverance, and to trust in 
 him. « Trust in him," he said. " I know as well that 
 I am a child of God as that I stand here, and I have 
 no fear of the devil any more. I know he can trouble 
 me, but he shall do longer have power over me." We 
 told him he must take care of his affairs, and work 
 when he felt inclined. " Work," he said, " I have no more 
 work." It is as if it were Sunday. I know that the cattle 
 must be taken care of and other things must be done, but 
 that concerns me not. I have no work, and will not work 
 again as I have done before. God will take care of me. 
 We admonished him that he himself and his whole family 
 ought to go learn and be reformed. " That I will do," he 
 replied, " if it please God, and if she only will listen and 
 learn ; but if she will not I cannot help it." We read to 
 him some portions of scripture, as Matt, v, 6. John xvi, 
 17. Matt, vii, 8, of the carefulness of the world, by which 
 he found himself comforted, and promised he would avoid 
 the world as much as he could, and wished he could fulfill 
 his inclination and go and live alone in the woods, away 
 from wicked men, for it was impossible to live near them 
 and not sin as they do. " Could I only go up the river," 
 said he, " with you and everywhere you go ! Oh, that I 
 were a young man I would not leave you." You could 
 see that he spoke with earnestness and from the uprightness 
 of his soul. 
 
 19th, Friday. We had been several times for our passport, 
 which we supposed would be a special one granted by his 
 excellency to us, but in that we were mistaken. Our names 
 were merely added to the common passport to go up and 
 down the river, as the names of all the passengers were 
 written on it. We left ls T ew York about three o'clock in 
 
SAILING UP THE RIVER. 
 
 295 
 
 the afternoon with a southerly wind, in company with about 
 twenty passengers of all kinds, young and old, who made 
 great noise and bustle in a boat not so large as a common 
 ferry-boat in Holland; and as these people live in the inte- 
 rior of the country somewhat nearer the Indians, they are 
 more wild and untamed, reckless, unrestrained, haughty 
 and more addicted to misusing the blessed name of God 
 and to cursing and swearing. However there was no help 
 for it; you have to go with those with whom you are 
 shipped. We were scarcely in the North river when we 
 saw a ship coming through the Narrows, but as it was so 
 far off we could not discern what vessel it was. Each pas- 
 senger had his own opinion on the subject. After we had 
 sailed along an half an hour we heard five or six guns fired 
 from the fort and otherwise, which was a proof that she 
 was from sea, As we were sailing along a boat came 
 up to us but lost her mast in boarding us. She was to the 
 leeward and we were sailing before the wind with a good 
 headway. She came too near our yard-arm which carried 
 away her mast, and it was lucky she was not upset. They 
 put on board some tons of oysters, which are not to be 
 found at Fort Albany or away from salt water. In passing 
 Sapocanike we saw Theunis standing upon an eminence 
 where he was busy ploughing, and observing us as long as 
 he could. We made rapid progress, but with the night 
 the wind slackened, and we were compelled to come to 
 anchor in order to stem the tide. 
 
 20th, Saturday. When the day broke we saw how far we 
 had advanced. We were at the entrance of the Highlands 
 which are high and rocky, and lie on both sides of the river. 
 While waiting there for the tide and wind another boat 
 came alongside of us. They had a very fine fish, a striped 
 bass, as large as a codfish. The skipper was a son-in-law 
 of Dr. Schaats, the minister at Albany, a drunken, worthless 
 person who could not keep house wkh his wife, who was 
 
290 
 
 the: iiudson and its affluents 
 
 not much better than lie, nor was his father-in-law. He 
 had been away from his wife five or six years, and was now 
 going after her.' The. wind coming out of the south 
 about nine o'clock we weighed anchor, and got under sail. 
 It gradually increased until we had drifted through the 
 Highlands, which is regarded no small advantage when- 
 ever they wish to sail up or down the river; because, if 
 they do not have a fresh breeze aft, they cannot have much 
 favorable wind, as i„ blowing crosswise over the High- 
 lands, it blows above the vessel, and sometimes comes 
 down in whirlwinds which are dangerous. In the evening 
 we sailed before the Ilysopus, where some of the pas- 
 sengers desired to be put ashore, but it blew too hard and 
 we had too much headway. It did not seem to be very 
 important. In consequence of the river above the Ilysopus 
 being difficult to navigate, and beset with shoals and pas- 
 sages, and of the weather being rainy with no moon, we 
 could not proceed without continual danger of running 
 aground, and so came to anchor. 
 
 21st, Easter Sunday. The wind was against us and calm, 
 but we advanced as far as the Koorman's kit* where we' 
 were compelled to come to anchor, on account of the strong 
 current running down the river. We went ashore here to 
 walk about a little. There are two high falls on this kil, 
 where the beautiful green water comes falling over inces- 
 santly, in a manner wonderful to behold, when you con- 
 sider the power, wisdom and directions of God. The 
 water was the greenest I had observed, not only on the 
 
 'Domine Scbaats had one daughter, Anneke or Annatje, who married 
 Thomas Davidse Kikebell, the skipper above referred to. Some account 
 of her may be found in VC'alla 0 /um's mtory of New Ketlierland II 568 
 It appears she was ordered away from Albany by the magistrates, and her 
 husband was now on his way to take her to New York. 
 
 'Not to be confounded with Norman's kil, adjoining Albany This 
 was a stream below Kinderhook, the Cats kil. 
 
ARRIVAL AT ALBANY. 
 
 297 
 
 South river, but iu all New Netherland. Leaving the 
 cause of it for further inquiry, I mention it merely in pass- 
 ing-. At the falls on this river stands a fine saw-mill 
 which has wood enough to saw. The man who lives 
 there, although not the mildest, treated us, nevertheless, 
 reasonably well. He set before us shad which had been 
 caught the day before, and was very good, better, we 
 thought, than the same fish in Fatherland. 1 I observed 
 along the shore, trees which they call in Holland, the 
 tree of life, 2 such as we have in our garden, but they grow 
 here beautiful and large, like firs. I picked up a small 
 stone in which there was some crystal, and you could see 
 how the crystal was formed in the stone. 
 
 A breeze springing up from the south caused us to hurry 
 on board the yacht, which we saw was making sail. We 
 reached her after a good time of hard rowing, and were 
 quite tired before we did so. The breeze did not con- 
 tinue a long time, and we came to anchor again. After 
 several stoppages we proceeded to-day as far as Kinder- 
 hook. 
 
 22d, Monday. We had again this morning a southerly 
 breeze, which carried us slowly along until noon, when we 
 came to anchor before the Fuyck, and Fort Albany or 
 Orange. Every one stepped ashore at once, but we did 
 not know where to go. We first thought of taking lodg- 
 ings with our skipper, but we had been warned that his 
 house was unregulated and poorly kept. Mons. van Cleif, 
 wishing to do us a kindness, had given us a letter of recom- 
 mendation to Mr. Robert Sanders, and M. de la Grange 
 had also presented us to the same friend. ¥e went ashore 
 
 1 The shad in Holland have larger bones, and a coarser flesh than ours, 
 although they are the same species. The feeding grounds are said to 
 cause the difference. 
 
 2 Arbor vitae. 
 
 38 
 
298 
 
 THE HUDSON A XI) ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 just as preaching was over, to deliver our letter. This 
 person as soon as lie saw us at his house, was pleased 
 and received us with every attention, and so did all his 
 family, giving us a chamber for our accommodation. We 
 did not remain his debtors in heartily serving him in what 
 was necessary, whether by instruction, admonition or re- 
 proof, which he always received kindly, as it seemed, 
 promising himself as well as all his family to reform, which 
 was quite necessary. 1 
 
 23d, Tuesday. Mr. Sanders having provided us with 
 horses, we rode out about nine o'clock, to visit the Cahoos 
 which is the falls of the great Marjuas Id (Mohawk river), 
 which are the greatest falls, not only in New Netherland, 
 but in North America, and perhaps, as far as is known, in 
 the whole New World. 2 We rode for two hours over 
 
 1 Robert Sanders, of Albany, was a distinguished and intelligent Indian 
 trader. lie became well versed in the languages, both of the Mohawks 
 and the River Indians, two languages radically different, and acted as 
 interpreter between them and the English authorities, on several occasions. 
 He was particularly designated by Mr. Miller, as a proper person to 
 furnish the government information in relation to the condition of Canada. 
 He rendered himself so obnoxious to the French governor there, in conse- 
 quence of his opposition to the Jesuit missionaries among the Five Nations, 
 that he was the subject of special complaint in the letter of that func- 
 tionary, M. Denonville, to Governor Dongan, in 1687. — Colonial Ilistory, 
 EI, 469, 483, 485; VI, 46, 63.— Miller's Description of New York (Gowans's 
 Edition), 81. 
 
 'The Cohoes falls certainly affords a sublime sight when the flow of 
 water is at its height, as it generally is at the time of year when they were 
 visited by our travelers. It is not surprising that they should have con- 
 sidered them the largest in America. As far as the topography of this 
 continent was then generally known, they were undoubtedly correct. 
 The falls of Niagara, it is true, were then known to Europeans, but they 
 had not been particularly described, and had been only obscurely men- 
 tioned by Champlain, Sagard and Father Ragueneau in the Huron Rela- 
 tion of 1647-8. Father Hennepin visited them in 1678-9, a year or two 
 before our travelers were at the Cohoes, but his account did not appear 
 in print until 1683. 
 
COHOES FALLS. 299 
 
 beautiful, level, tillable land along tbe river, wben we 
 obtained a guide who was better acquainted with the road 
 through the woods. He rode before us on horseback. In 
 approaching the Cahoos from this direction, the roads are 
 hilly, and in the course of half an hour you have steep 
 hills, deep valleys and narrow paths, which run round the 
 precipices, where you must ride with care, in order to avoid 
 the danger of falling over them, as sometimes happens. As 
 you come near the falls, you can hear the roaring which makes 
 every thing tremble, but on reaching them, and looking at 
 them you see something wonderful, a great manifestation 
 of God's power and sovereignty, of his wisdom and glory. 
 We arrived there about noon. They are on one of the two 
 branches into which the North river is divided up above, 
 of almost equal size. This one turns to the west out of the 
 highland, and coming here finds a blue rock which has a 
 steep side, as long as the river is broad, which, according 
 to my calculation is two hundred paces or more, aud rather 
 more than less, and about one hundred feet high. 1 The 
 river has more water at one time than another ; and was 
 now about six or eight feet deep. All this volume of 
 water coming on this side, fell headlong upon a stony 
 bottom, this distance of an hundred feet. Any one may 
 judge whether that was not a spectacle, „and whether it 
 would not make a noise. There is a continual spray 
 thrown up by the dashing of the water, and when the sun 
 shines the figure of a rainbow may be seen through it. 
 Sometimes there are two or three of them to be seen, one 
 above the other, according to the brightness of the sun 
 and its parallax. There was now more water than usual 
 4 in consequence of its having rained hard for several days, 
 and the snow water having begun to run down from the 
 high land. 
 
 1 Actual measurement makes the width of the Cohoes, nine hundred feet, 
 the total descent 78 feet and the perpendicular fall 40. 
 
300 
 
 TIIE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 On our return we stopped at the house of our guide, 
 whom we had taken on the way up, where there were some 
 families of Indians living. Seeing us, they said to each 
 other, "Look, these are certainly real Dutchmen, actual 
 Hollanders." Kobert Sanders asked them, how they knew 
 it. We see it, they said, in their faces and in their dress. 
 "Yes," said one, "they have the clothes of real Hol- 
 landers ; they look like brothers." They brought us some 
 ground nuts, but although the Dutch call them so, they 
 were in fact potatoes, for of ground nuts, or mice vnth tails 1 
 there are also plenty. They cooked them, and gave us 
 some to eat, which we did. There was a canoe made of 
 the bark of trees, and the Indians have many of them for 
 the purpose of making their journeys. It was fifteen or 
 sixteen feet or- more in length. It was so light that two 
 men could easily carry it, as the Indians do in going from 
 one stream or lake to another. They come in such canoes 
 from Canada, and from places so distant we know not 
 where. Four or five of them stepped into this one and 
 rowed lustily through the water with great speed, and 
 when they came back with the current they seemed to fly. 
 They did this to amuse us at the request of Mr. Sanders. 
 Leaving there forborne, we came again to the house of one 
 Fredrick Pie(ers,*where we had stopped in riding out. He 
 is one of the principal men of Albany, and this was his 
 farm; he possesses good information and judgment. My 
 comrade had some conversation with him. He expected 
 us, and now entertained us well. My comrade was in pain 
 from eating the ground nuts. On arriving home in the 
 evening, the house was full of people, attracted there out 
 of cui'iosity, as is usually the case in small towns, where 
 every one in particular knows what happens in the whole 
 place. 
 
 1 Pea-nuts. 
 
SCHENECTADY. A HALF-BREED. 
 
 301 
 
 2-ith, Wednesday. My comrade's pain continued through 
 the night, although he had taken his usual medicine, 
 and he thought he would become better by riding on 
 horseback. The horses were got ready, and we left about 
 eight o'clock for Schoonechtendecl, 1 a place lying about 
 twenty-four miles west or north-west of Albany towards 
 the country of the Mohawks (llaquaas). We rode over a 
 fine, sandy cart road through a woods of nothing but beau- 
 tiful evergreens or fir trees, but a light and barren soil. 
 My companion grew worse instead of better. It was noon 
 when we reached there, and arrived at the house of a good 
 friend of Robert Sanders. As soon as we entered my com- 
 rade had to go and lie down. He had a high fever, and 
 was covered up warm. I went with Sanders to one Adam, 2 
 and to examine the flats which are exceedingly rich land. 
 I spoke to several persons of the Christian life, each one 
 according to his state and as it was fit. 
 
 25th, Thursday. We had thought of riding a little further 
 on, and so back to Albany ; but my comrade was too sick, 
 and had the chills and fever again. The weather, too, was 
 windy and rainy. We concluded, therefore, to postpone 
 it till the following day ; and in the meantime I accompanied 
 Sanders to the before mentioned Adam's. While we were 
 there, a certain Indian woman, or half-breed, that is, from 
 an European and an Indian woman, came with a little boy, 
 her child, who was dumb, or whose tongue had grown 
 fast. It was about four years old ; she had heard we were 
 there, and came to ask whether we knew of any advice for 
 her child, or whether we could not do a little something 
 to cure it. We informed her we were not doctors or 
 surgeons, but we gave her our opinion, just as we thought. 
 
 1 This seems to be an effort to transmute the Indian name of Schenectady 
 into a Dutch word, meaning the beautiful portion. 
 
 2 See the note on a subsequent page in relation to the burning of Schenec- 
 tady and the massacre of the inhabitants by the French and Indians. 
 
302 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 Sanders told me aside that she was a Christian, that is, 
 had left the Indians, and had heen taught hy the Christian! 
 and baptized; that she had made profession of the reformed 
 religion, and was not of the unjust. Not contenting 
 myself with this account, and observing something in her 
 that pleased me, I asked her to relate to me herself how it 
 had gone w ith her from the first of her coming to Christ- 
 endom, hoth outwardly and inwardly. Looking at me she 
 said, " How glad am I that I am so fortunate ; that God 
 should permit me to hehold such Christians, whom I have 
 so long desired to see, and to whom I may speak from the 
 bottom of my heart without fear; and that there are such 
 Christians in the world. How often have I asked myself, 
 are there no other Christians than those amongst whom 
 we live, who are so godless and lead worse lives than the 
 Indians, and yet have such a pure and holy religion ? Now 
 I see God thinks of us, and has sent you from the other 
 end of the world to speak to us." She had heard me give 
 reasons to the others, and address them generally, before I 
 made this request of her. I answered, that all who pro- 
 fessed the Christian religion did not live as that religion 
 required, that such were false professors, and not Christians, 
 bearing the name only, but denying the truth. She had 
 said all this with a tender and affectionate heart, and with 
 many tears, but tears which you felt proceeded from the 
 heart, and from love towards God. I was surprised to find 
 so far in the woods, and among Indians; but why say 
 among Indians ? among Christians ten times worse than 
 Indians, a person who should address me with such affection 
 and love of God ; but I answered and comforted her. She 
 then related to me, from the beginning, her case, that 
 is, how she had embraced Christianity. She was born of 
 a Christian father and an Indian mother, of the Mohawk 
 tribes. Her mother remained in the country, and lived 
 among the Mohawks, and she lived with her, the same as 
 
A DESIRE TO BE A CHRISTIAN. 
 
 303 
 
 Indians live together. Her mother would never listen to 
 any thing about the Christians, or it was against her heart, 
 from an inward, unfounded hate. She lived then with 
 her mother and brothers and sisters ; but sometimes she 
 went with her mother among the Christians to trade and 
 make purchases, or the Christians came among them, and 
 thus it was that some Christians took a fancy to the girl, 
 discovering 1 in her more resemblance to the Christians 
 than the Indians, but understand, more like the Dutch, 
 and that she was not so wild as the other children. They, 
 therefore, wished to take the girl and bring her up, which 
 the mother would not hear to, and as this request was 
 made repeatedly, she said she would rather kill her. The 
 little daughter herself had no disposition at first to go ; 
 and the mother did nothing more with the daughter, than 
 express continually her detestation and abhorrence of the 
 Christians. This happened several times, when the 
 daughter began to mistrust the Christians were not such 
 as the mother told her ; the more so, because she never went 
 among them without being well treated, and obtaining 
 something or other. She, therefore, began to hearken to 
 them; but particularly she felt a great inclination and 
 love in her heart towards those Christians who spoke to her 
 about God, and of Christ Jesus and the Christian religion. 
 Her mother observed it, and began to hate her and not 
 treat her as well as she had done before. Her brothers 
 and sisters despised and cursed her, threw stones at her, 
 and did her all the wrong they could ; but the more they 
 abused and maltreated her, the more she felt something 
 growing in her that attracted and impelled her towards the 
 Christians and their doctrine, until her mother and the 
 others could endure her no longer; while she, feeling her 
 love of the Christians, and especially of their religion, 
 which she called their doctrine, to increase more and more, 
 she could no longer live with the Indians. They ceased 
 
304 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 not seeking to wrong ] ier , and compelled her to leave 
 them, as she did, and went to those who had so long 
 solicited her. They gave her the name of Ellk or llldic 
 (Alice). She lived a long time with a woman, with 
 whom we conversed afterwards, who taught her to read 
 and write, and do various handiwork, in which she advanced 
 so greatly that everybody was astonished. She had espe- 
 cially a great desire to learn to read, and applied herself to 
 that end day and night, and asked others, who were near 
 her, to the vexation and annoyance of the other maids, who 
 lived with her, who could sometimes with difficulty keep 
 her back. But that did not restrain her; she felt such an 
 eagerness and desire to learn that she could not be with- 
 held, particularly when she began to understand the Dutch 
 language, and what was expressed in the New Testament, 
 where her whole heart was. In a short time, therefore, 
 she understood more about it than the other girls with 
 whom she conversed, and who had first instructed her, 
 and, particularly, was sensible in her heart of its truth. 
 She had lived with different people, and had very much 
 improved ; she spoke of it with heart-felt delight. Finally, 
 she made her profession, and was baptized. Since that 
 time, she said, the love she felt in her heart had not di- 
 minished, but had increased, and she sighed to live near 
 Christians, who were good and faithful, and lived up to 
 their religion. Therefore it was, that she was so glad to 
 see us, and that God, who had so loved her before, still so 
 loved her as to permit her to see and speak to us, " me," she 
 said, " who have been such a heathen." I told her that 
 God had showed her still more love, as she well knew. 
 She believed it, she said, melting into tears, but she could 
 not express her heart. " Might I only live with such 
 people, how would my heart do good." "Blessed are 
 they who hunger and thirst after righteousness, for they 
 shall be satisfied," I repeated to her, and further expressed 
 
WOUTEE, A MOHAWK CONVERT. 
 
 305 
 
 what was necessary. " How many times," said she, " have 
 I grieved over these Christians, not daring to speak ont 
 my heart to any one, for when I would sometimes rebuke 
 them a little for their evil lives, drunkenness, and foul and 
 godless language, they would immediately say ■ ' Well, 
 how is this, there is a sow converted. Run, boys, to the 
 brewer's, and bring some swill for a converted sow,' words 
 which went through my heart, made me sorrowful and 
 closed my mouth. But I see that God still thinks of me 
 and loves me, now that he causes me to see and converse 
 with such people as you." We told her she must so much 
 the more receive with love and affection what we said to 
 her, out of regard to God and her soul. " Oh ! " said she, 
 " what you have told me is as dear to me as my heart," 
 and she spoke with such feeling and tenderness, such 
 depth of love, that I cannot describe it, and it affected me. 
 Yes, she expressed to me more reality of the truth of 
 Christianity, through the emotions of her heart, although in 
 language according to the genius of the person, which, 
 nevertheless, was nothing but loving — more, I said, than any 
 one, whether minister or other person, in all New Nether- 
 land. She had a brother who was also a half-breed, who- 
 had made profession of Christianity, and had been bap- 
 tized, and who was not by far as good as she, but, on the 
 contrary, very wicked ; though, I believe, he has been 
 better, and has been corrupted by the conversation of 
 impious Hollanders ; for this place is a godless one, being 
 without a minister, and having only a homily (postyl) read, 
 on Sundays. He was married, and so was she. She has 
 some children; her husband is not as good as she is, 
 though he is not one of the worst; she sets a good example 
 before him, and knows how to direct him. 
 
 She has a nephew, a full blooded Mohawk, named 
 Woutcr (Walter). The Lord has also touched him, through 
 her instrumentality. Wouter speaks no Dutch, or very 
 39 
 
:;im; 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 little. Pie has abandoned all the Indians, and his Indian 
 friends and relations, and lives with his uncle, the brother 
 of Illetie. He has betaken himself entirely to the Christ- 
 ians and dresses like them. Jle has Buffered much from 
 the other Indians and his friends. He has such a love and 
 comprehension of God, such reverence and humility towards 
 him and what is godly, that it is a joy to hear him speak. 
 His thoughts are occupied night and day with God and 
 Jesus Christ, wondering about God and his mercy, that he 
 should cause him to know him, to comprehend him and to 
 serve him. He is endeavoring to learn the Dutch language, 
 so as to be instructed in Christianity, and to be among 
 good Christians who live like Christians. That was all 
 his desire, thinking all the time about it, speaking always 
 with Illetie about it, who assisted and instructed him as 
 much as she could, and always with love, with which God 
 much blessed her. His uncle, with whom he lived, was 
 covetous, and kept him only because he was profitable 
 to him in hunting beaver. He, therefore, would hardly 
 speak a word of Dutch to him, in order that he might 
 not be able to leave him too soon, and go among the 
 Christians and under Christianity. He sent him to the 
 woods and among the Indians, for the sake of the devilish 
 profit of the world— these are the words of Robert 
 Sanders, and Illetie said not much less ; yet this poor 
 creature has, nevertheless, such a great inclination and 
 longing after Christianity. 
 
 Besides this inward desire, propensity and feeling, God, 
 the Lord, has given him outward proofs of his love and 
 protection, and among other instances I will relate these 
 two which I well remember. It happened once that his 
 uncle went out a shooting with him in the woods, when 
 the uncle began to sneer at him, saying, that he, a mere 
 stupid Indian, could not shoot, but a Christian was a different 
 character and was expert and handy : that he, Wouter, 
 
THE INDIAN HUNTER'S PRAYER. 
 
 307 
 
 would not shoot any thing that day, but he himself would 
 have a good hunt. To which Wouter replied; " it is well, 
 I cannot help it; I will have whatever God sends me." 
 Upon this they separated from each other in the woods, 
 and each went where he thought best. " Now when I was 
 tired out," said Wouter, for we heard it from him himself, 
 as well as from his aunt, " and had traveled and hunted 
 the whole day without finding any game, with the evening 
 approaching, grieved that I had shot nothing and troubled 
 at the reproach of my uncle, my heart looked up to God ; 
 I fell upon my knees and .prayed to him, that although I 
 was no Christian (he meant baptized), I loved God, and 
 only longed to learn the language in order to be instructed 
 in Christianity, and would receive it with my whole heart ; 
 that God would be pleased to send to me a wild animal to 
 shoot, so that the slur, which my uncle had thrown upon 
 me, might be wiped off." While thus down on his knees, 
 with his hat hanging upon a bough which was bent down, 1 
 his prayer not finished, there comes and stands before him 
 a very young deer, not twenty paces off; it com es softly 
 up to him; his gun rests along side of him loaded; he 
 takes aim, shoots, and hits, the deer in the breast, and the 
 creature drops before him on its two fore feet and there 
 remains. Without going to the deer, he thanks God upon 
 his knees that he had heard his prayer and had turned 
 back the reproach. " Oh," said he, " now do I know 
 there is a God, who is in the woods also, and hears, loves 
 and thinks of me there." He comes to the deer, which 
 is a young buck two or three years old, as fat and beau- 
 tiful as he had ever seen in his life, and takes it upon his 
 shoulders and goes with joy to his uncle, whom he found, 
 
 'Mcthinks he was moved by seeing this bended branch, to bend himself 
 before God, and, therefore, hung his hat upon it ; though I dare not so 
 aflirin certainly. — Note of the journalist. 
 
308 
 
 THE HUDBOU AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 and asked where was his good hunt and the game he had 
 shot. His uncle was angry and spoke angrily, saying he had 
 been going the whole day, tired and weary, without seeing 
 or shooting any thing, and had come there to look after 
 chestnuts. "That is well, that is good," said Wouter, 
 " reproach the Indians no more for not being good shooters. 
 Look at what God has given me upon my prayer;" for 
 he was very glad at what had occurred. The uncle stood 
 and looked, and knew not what to say, being ashamed at 
 what he heard and saw, and of himself. Wouter said 
 further; "I know there has been no wild animal round 
 about here, for I have explored the whole place, far and 
 near, without being able to discover any; and now in so 
 short a time this one presented itself before me, and it is, 
 therefore, certain that God placed it there or caused it to 
 come there. I have no doubt of it." Although the uncle 
 was ashamed, he was not much affected by the circum- 
 stance, and still less humiliated or improved. But Elletie 
 had taken it strongly to heart, and when they both told it to 
 us, we were affected by it ourselves, and saw God in it more 
 than he had done. 
 
 Another occasion was during the last harvest, in the 
 year 1679, while he was out in the woods hunting beavers. 
 He had then had a successful time and had killed some 
 beavers, the flesh of which he used for food, and had 
 nothing else to eat. The flesh of the beaver, although we 
 never relished it, is esteemed by others a great delicacy. 
 Nevertheless, as we have been told by those who are well 
 acquainted with it, it is a kind of food with which they 
 soon become satiated. He also became tired of it ; and 
 not having any thing else became sad. He felt his heart 
 boil — this is his own expression, and fell down upon his 
 knees and prayed that God who had heard him before, 
 might be pleased now again to hear him and give him 
 other food, not so much to satisfy him, as to show that he 
 
A FIGURATIVE BUSH. 
 
 309 
 
 was God and loved him — a God whom the Indians did 
 not know, hut for whom he felt he had a greater hunger 
 than his hunger for outward food, or for what the Indians 
 usually were satisfied with, which is beaver and heaver 
 meat, that is, to hunt successfully and trade the skins, 
 which is all they go out hunting for ; hut that he felt some- 
 thing else, a hunger which could not be satisfied with this 
 food and such like ; that he felt more hunger after other 
 food than what the Indians satisfied themselves with ; and 
 sought to be a Christian, and no longer to be an Indian. 
 
 While in the midst of his prayer, there stood a fine 
 deer before him, which he aimed at and felled at one 
 shot. He quickly loaded his gun again, and had scarcely 
 done so, when he saw close to him a young buffalo. 1 He 
 levelled his gun and brought it down ; but on running up 
 to it, he came to himself his heart was disturbed, and he 
 became anxious and ashamed in considering his covetous- 
 ness; that he had not thanked God for the first small 
 animal, so that he could go no further from joy and fear. 
 He fell upon his knees before God, in great humility, 
 shame, and reverence, confessing his fault and his want of 
 gratitude, praying God to forgive him, and thanking him 
 now for both ; saying that through his unthankfulness for the 
 first one, he was not worthy to have the second and larger one. 
 
 This may be believed as the true meaning and almost 
 the very words of the Indian, for they were repeated to us 
 from him in his presence, Illetie, who first told us, inter- 
 preting after him in the presence of five or six persons who 
 were well versed in the Mohawk language, and bore 
 testimony that he said what she interpreted, and that it 
 was not enlarged. . 
 
 1 There is nothing in this statement inconsistent with the fact that the 
 buffalo is not now to be found in this state. Vanderdonk says, buffaloes 
 were plenty when he wrote, twenty-five years before the date in the text, 
 and it is not probable they had all disappeared in that brief interval. 
 
310 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 Thus continuing to long after something which he did 
 not have, and being yet in the woods returning home, 
 he came to a bush which was growing in the shape 
 of a man's hand, and which he stopped to look at and 
 speculate upon. He wondered at it, and his heart was 
 disturbed and began to bml. He fell down upon his knees 
 by the bush striking his hands into it, and prayed : Oh 
 God ! you cause to come before me a sign or image of 
 what I want and for which I hunger and long. It is true 
 I have two hands with which I hunt and shoot and do 
 other things, but I feel I still require a hand to help me, 
 more serviceable than those I have and use, and stronger 
 and wiser than mine. I am in want of a third hand. It 
 is true I have forsaken the Indians and have come among 
 Christians, but this cannot help me unless a third power 
 make me a true Christian, and enable me to learn the 
 language, that I may inquire, read and enter into the 
 grounds of Christianity." This he did with great tender- 
 ness and love; and being so much affected, he cut off 
 the bush and took it with him in remembrance of his feel- 
 ings and the outpouring of his heart to God, more than for 
 the rarity of the figure in which it had grown. This stick 
 or bush we have seen ourselves and had in our hands. He 
 presented it to Robert Sanders, who carried it to Albany. 
 
 His aunt, Illetie, had taught him as well as she could, 
 bow he must pray, which she recommended to him to do' 
 every time he returned home, morning or evening, or on 
 any other occasion which might happen to him, which he 
 always did with concern and anxiety of heart. He always 
 rejoiced at the proofs of God's [care] over him, and was 
 sorry that he could not improve them, hoping and believ- 
 ing that God would yet give him what he still wanted 
 and hungered after. I asked Illetie, who first told me all 
 this, why they did not take him to some place, where he 
 could learn the language, and some handiwork, with read- 
 
WOUTER TO GO TO WIEWERD. 
 
 311 
 
 ing and writing and the like, and especially where he might 
 he brought to the knowledge and practice of Christianity. 
 She said there were two impediments, first his uncle, whom 
 we have mentioned, who only kept him as a kind of 
 servant, such as the English have, for the sake of vile gain ; 
 and, although he was free, and hound to nobody, would 
 never speak a word of Dutch to him, so that he might not 
 lose him. The other difficulty was, that as he was of age, 
 24 or 26 years old, or thereabouts, no one would receive 
 him for his board and clothing, fearful he would not learn 
 the one or other handiwork, and would, therefore, be a loss 
 to them. Whereupon I said if he would go with us we 
 would give him board and clothing for all his life, and he 
 should never be our servant or slave, and would be free 
 and clear of all obligation ; and if God should give him 
 farther the grace he would be our brother and as free as 
 we were. " Oh," said she, " how happy he would be if he 
 should be so fortunate, and God so honored him, as I must 
 shame myself for the honor and happiness he causes me in 
 enabling me to speak with you about these things." I 
 spoke to her further what I thought would serve for her 
 edification and consolation ; and told her as my comrade 
 was sick and not able to go out, and weather was too rainy, 
 she must come to us in the evening, and bring Wouter 
 with her, that we might see him, and converse with him. 
 
 I thereupon went home and told my comrade my adven- 
 ture, who was rejoiced at it, and would expect her in the 
 evening. Meanwhile he had become stronger. The parish 
 reader (voorleser van de plaeis), who is the son of minister 
 Sckaets, came to visit my comrade, and said he had heard 
 of us, and had been desirous to converse with us. He was 
 a little conceited, but my comrade having heard that he 
 was the voorleser, gave him a good lesson, at which he was 
 not badly content, and with which he went away. 
 
 When evening came, so came Illetie with her husband, 
 
312 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 and Wouter, and Adam and his wife, with two or three 
 others besides. We conversed together through Illetie, 
 who interpreted to him from us, and to us from him, and 
 he himself repeated all that Dletie had told me, as before 
 related. We spoke to him from the bottom of our hearts, 
 and he to us from the bottom of his heart and out of love' 
 to us. We exhorted, encouraged and comforted him as 
 much as he required, and his condition would permit. lie 
 thanked us with tenderness, that God had vouchsafed to 
 cause him to see and speak with true Christians, with 
 people whom he had so longed for, and with whom he 
 wished to spend his life. « What would you be willing to 
 give to do so," my comrade asked. Oh, said he, all that I 
 have in the world, and more if I had it, or it were in my 
 power. We told him he must leave it to God's liberty, 
 who would do what he pleased, would hear him, and re- 
 lease him when his time should come. After several 
 episodes, we inquired of him what was his greatest wish 
 and desire, his greatest hunger and strongest longing. " I 
 know not justly what it is," he replied, " but I am°like a 
 person who has three knives or some other articles which 
 are valuable, useful and necessary, but has lost the one he 
 has most need of, or is the most serviceable and necessary, 
 and without which the others are of little service. Thus I 
 have forsaken my relatives, and all my friends, my nation 
 and country, which is good, and that is one of the articles. 
 Moreover, I have come among Christians, and Dutch, and 
 begun to know something of God, and that also is good, 
 and is the second one. I3ut I am wanting something 
 more than these, and without which they are of no service 
 to me, namely, a knowledge of the Dutch language, ability 
 to enter into the grounds of Christianity, and become a 
 good Christian." We encouraged him, and assured him of 
 the way of the Lord, that God would hear his prayer, and 
 fulfill his desire, according to the words of the Lord Jesus • 
 
DEPARTURE FROM SCHENECTADY. 313 
 
 " Blessed are they who hunger and thirst after righteous- 
 ness, for they shall be satisfied." " Oh," said he to Illetie, 
 " how I love people who speak so kindly and mildly, and 
 know how to utter such sweet and beautiful comparisons. 
 Oh, what love I have for them ! " 
 
 After we had addressed him and her, earnestly and in 
 love ; and also the bystanders, to their shame and convic- 
 tion, for their godless lives, whereby they repelled the 
 heathen and wronged such as begun to be drawn [to God] 
 like these, and as having a terrible judgment to expect which 
 they could not escape, Illetie, said, yes, there were many Mo- 
 hawk Indians, who, if they were taught, as they seek to 
 be, and had good examples set before them by the Chris- 
 tians, by their lives, and were not so deceived and cheated 
 by the Christians who ought to assist them, would listen ; 
 but now they were repulsed, and the Jesuits who were 
 among them, and whom Wouter had heard preach several 
 times in his own language, corrupted them all. Having 
 said all that was proper to them at this time, we invoked 
 upon them the blessing of God. 
 
 26th, Friday. Wouter was early at our house, in order to 
 assist in getting the horses ready. My comi'ade finding 
 himself better, but still weak, we determined to leave, two 
 of us on horseback and he in a wagon belonging at 
 Albany, which we had the good fortune of meeting at 
 Schooncchtcn, and in which he could ride over a very com- 
 fortable road. It had frozen quite hard during the night, 
 but when the sun rose a little, it became warm enough, 
 especially in the woods, where the wind, which was north- 
 west, could not blow through. I went to take my leave of 
 several persons with whom I had conversed, and also of 
 Illetie, consoling and strengthening her once more and 
 committing her to God and his grace, and she leaving us 
 with tenderness and many tears. At a place where we 
 were taking our leave, the uncle of Wouter had come, who 
 40 
 
314 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 commenced saying in very good Dutch : " Well, gentle- 
 men, I understand Wouter is going to Holland with you." 
 We answered, we did not know it, nor had we thought of 
 it, hut nevertheless, our hearts were good and tender 
 enough to help him, hoth hody and soul, in whatever the 
 Lord had wrought in him, or should work in him, as far 
 as we could, which we considered to be our duty, and not 
 only our duty, but the. duty of all Christians. If he 
 wished to go to Holland) we would not prevent him, 
 because any person who is free, may go there if he 
 chooses ; and if he wished to go with us in the same ship 
 in which we should go over, he was free and might act his 
 mind ; yes, if he wished to be in our company we would 
 not be able to hinder him, and while he was free no one 
 could prevent him, or ought to, but on the other hand 
 should aid him ; especially as all who bore the name of 
 Christians ought to assist in bringing to Christ any one 
 who hungered and thirsted after him as Wouter did. 
 Well, he asked, without any feeling, what trade would you 
 teach him. Whatever God wished, we answered. And if 
 he should be taken by the Turks, he continued, who 
 would be his security, and who would redeem him. Well, 
 we asked, if we were taken by the Turks who would be 
 our security and redeem us ? God gives no security and 
 makes no agreement. Whoever wishes to be a Christian 
 must believe and trust in him, and follow him in faith, 
 and so must you, and I, and every one, who wishes to be 
 a Christian. Some hard words passed also between 
 Robert Sanders and him, about something relating to him- 
 self, namely, that Sanders had said the uncle only sought to 
 keep Wouter, on account of the profit to him. As the 
 time called us to depart, we took our leave and left him 
 standing there abashed. Having mounted our horses and 
 entered the wagon, we rode from there about ten o'clock, 
 over a smooth sandy road, and amved at half-past three at 
 
SCHENECTADY. 
 
 315 
 
 Albany, or Fort Orange, where Sanders's wife was glad to see 
 us, and where we were well received by his whole family. 
 
 This Schoonechtendeel, is situated, as we have said, twenty- 
 four miles west of Fort Albany, toward the country of the 
 Mohawks, upon a good flat, high enough to be free from 
 the overflowing of the water of the river, which sometimes 
 overflows their cultivated lands which lie much lower. 
 Their cultivated lands are not what they call in that coun- 
 try valleyen, but large flats, between the hills, on the mar- 
 gin, or along the side of the rivers, brooks or creeks, very 
 flat and level, without a- single tree or bush upon them, of 
 a black sandy soil which is four and sometimes five or six 
 feet deep, but sometimes less, which can hardly be ex- 
 hausted. They cultivate it year after year, without 
 manure, for many years. It yields large crops of wheat, 
 but not so good as that raised in the wood land around the 
 city of New York and elsewhere, nor so productively, but 
 it makes white flour. The wheat which comes from this 
 place, the Hysopus and some other places is a little blue. 
 Much of the plant called dragon's blood, grows about here, 
 and also yearly a kind of small lemon or citron, of which 
 a single one grows upon a bush. This bush grows about 
 five feet high, and the fruit cannot be distinguished from 
 any other citron in form, color, taste or quality. It grows 
 wild about the city of New York, but not well. I have 
 not heard of its growing in any other places. 
 
 The village proper of Schenectady, is a square, set off by 
 palisades. There may be about thirty houses which are 
 situated on the side of the Mohawk river (Maquas Ml), a stream 
 they cannot use for carrying goods up or down in yachts 
 or boats. 1 There are no fish in it except trout, sunfish 
 
 1 Charlevoix, corroborating the above description, describes.Schenectady 
 as being in the form of a long square and entered by two gates. This was 
 at the time of the surprise and massacre of its inhabitants by a party of 
 French and Indians in February, 1690.— NowceUe France, II, 45. Sixty- 
 
31G 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 and other kinds peculiar to rivers, because the Cahoos 
 stops the ascent of others, which is a great inconvenience 
 for the menage and for bringing down the produce. 
 
 As soon as we arrived in Albany we went to our skipper 
 Meus Hoofjhboom., to inquire when he was going to the city. 
 He said to-morrow, but he said he would come and notify 
 us of the time. We saw it would run on a much longer 
 time, as it usually does in these parts. 
 
 27th, Saturday* We went to call upon a certain Madam 
 Rcnlsclaer, widow of the Heer Rentsclaer, son of the founder 
 
 three of the inhabitants, including Domine Tessemaker, were murdered on 
 that occasion, in cold blood, while they were sleeping in their beds, and 
 twenty-seven were carried into captivity.— (JolderCs Five Nation*, 115. 
 Schenectady is said to be an Indian name, signifying in the Mohawk dia- 
 lect, beyond the pine plains; it was also called Corlaer after one of the 
 early settlers. From the circumstance that our journalists were in com- 
 pany with Mr. Robert Sanders, who took them to the most considerable 
 persons of the place, we are inclined to believe that the resident named 
 Adam, at whose house they metllletic and Wouter, was Adam Vrooman, 
 of whom we have the following account on the occasion of the massacre:' 
 " To some of the inhabitants this assault was not altogether unexpected, 
 and they had for some time previously taken the necessary precautions to' 
 prevent surprise. Among those who made a successful defense, and kept 
 the foe at bay was Adam Vrooman. Being well supplied with ammuni- 
 tion and trusting to the strength of his building, which was a sort of fort, 
 he formed the desperate resolution to defend himself to the last extremity ;' 
 and if it should prove to be his fate to perish in the flames of his own 
 domicil, to sell his own life and that of his children as dearly as possible. 
 His house was soon filled with smoke; his wife, nearly suffocated with it, 
 cautiously yet imprudently placed the door ajar. This, an alert Indian 
 perceived, and firing through the aperture killed her. In the meantime 
 one of his daughters escaped through the back hall door with his infant in 
 her arms. They snatched the little innocent from her arms, and dashed 
 out its brains ; and, in the confusion tjf the scene, the girl escaped. Their 
 triumph here, was, however, of short duration. Mr. Vrooman succeeded 
 in securely bolting the door, and preventing the intrusion of the enemy 
 On witnessing Mr. Vrooman's courage, the enemy promised, if he would 
 desist, to save his life, and not set fire to his building. This promise they 
 fulfilled, but carried off two of his sons in captivity."- Yates, in Dunlap's 
 New York, 1, 176-7. See ante, p. 301. 
 
MADAME VAN RENSSELAER. 
 
 317 
 
 of the colony of Rentselaerswyck, comprising twelve miles 
 square from Fort Orange, that is, twenty-four miles square 
 in all. She is in possession of the place, and administers 
 it as patronesse, until one Richard Van Rentselaer, residing 
 at Amsterdam, shall arrive in the country, whom she 
 expected in the summer, when he would assume the 
 management of it himself. This lady was polite, quite well 
 informed, and of good life and disposition. She had ex- 
 perienced several proofs of the Lord. The breaking up of 
 the ice had once carried away her mansion, and every 
 thing connected with it, of which place she had made too 
 much account. Also, in some visitations of her husband, 
 death, and others before. In her last child-bed, she became 
 lame or weak in both of her sides, so that she had to walk 
 with two canes or crutches. In all these trials, she had 
 borne herself well, and God " left not himself without 
 witness " in her. She treated us kindly, and we eat here 
 exceedingly good pike, perch and other fish, which now 
 began to come and be caught in great numbers. We had 
 several conversations with her about the truth, and prac- 
 tical religion, mutually satisfactory. We went to look at 
 several of her mills at work, which she had there on an 
 ever-running stream, grist-mills, saw-mills and others. 
 One of the grist-mills can grind 120 schepels 1 of meal in 
 twenty-four hours, that is five an hour.' Returning to the 
 house, we politely took our leave. Her residence is about 
 a quarter of an hour from Albany up the river. 
 
 28th, Sunday. We went to church in the morning, and 
 heard Domine Schaats preach, who, although he is a poor, 
 old, ignorant person, and, besides is not of good life, yet 
 had to give utterance to his passion, having for his text, 
 "whatever is taken upon us," &c, at which many of his 
 auditors, who knew us better, were not well pleased, and 
 
 1 One hundred and forty-four bushels. 
 
318 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 in order to show their condemnation of it, laughed and 
 derided him, which we corrected. 
 
 In the afternoon, we took a walk to an island upon the 
 end of which there is a fort built, they say, by the Spa- 
 niards. That a fort has been there is evident enough from 
 the earth thrown up, but it is not to be supposed that the 
 Spaniards came so far inland to build forts, when there are 
 no monuments of them to be seen down on the sea coasts, 
 where, however, they have been according to the traditions 
 of the Indians. This spot is a short hour's distance below 
 Albany, on the west side of the river. 
 
 29th, Monday. We should have left to-day, but our skip- 
 per said he could not obtain his passport. We called upon 
 several persons, and among others, upon the woman who 
 had brought up Illetie, the Indian woman, and had first 
 taken her from the Indians, and to whom we have alluded 
 before. This woman, although not of openly godless life, 
 is more wise than devout, although her knowledge is not 
 very extensive, and does not surpass that of the women of 
 New Netherland. She is a truly worldly woman, proud 
 and conceited, and sharp in trading with wild 1 people, as 
 well as tame ones, or what shall I call them, not to give 
 them the name of Christians, or if I do, it is only to dis- 
 tinguish them from the others. This trading is not carried 
 on without fraud,.and she is not free from it, as I after- 
 wards observed. She has a husband, which is her second 
 one, who is a papist, I believe. He remains at home 
 quietly, while she travels over the country to carry on the 
 trading. In fine she is one of the Dutch female traders, 
 who understand the business so well. If these be the 
 persons who are to make Christians of the heathen, what 
 
 1 Wild is the term used in the Dutch language to denote an Indian, in 
 the same sense as we use the word savage. So understood, the play upon 
 the words wild and tame in the place in the text, is the same both in Eng- 
 lish and Dutch. 
 
ALBANY OR THE FUYCE. 
 
 319 
 
 will the latter be ? But God employs such means as 
 pleases him to accomplish his purposes. He had given 
 Illetie more grace than to her, we are very certain. 
 
 We were invited to the fort by the Heer commandant, 
 who wished to see us, but left it to our convenience. We 
 went there with Robert Sanders, who interpreted for us. 
 This gentleman received us politely. He said he was 
 pleased to receive us, and to learn how we liked the lands 
 up above, and made a few such common observations. 
 He seemed to be not unreasonable, and a reliable person. 
 If he was not a Scotchman, he seemed, nevertheless, to be 
 a good Englishman, and, as we thought, a presbyterian. 
 "We soon took a friendly leave, and returned home. 
 
 "We spoke seriously to Robert Sanders about his pride, 
 arrogance, temper and passion, although according to the 
 world's reputation he was not a bad man. His wife is 
 more simple and a better person ; we spoke to her also, as 
 well as to their children, especially to the oldest, named 
 Elizabeth, who was tender-hearted and affectionate. He 
 and all of them promised to reform, and we saw with con- 
 solation that they in some things commenced to do so. 
 
 30//i, Tuesday. We were ready to leave early, but it ran 
 well on towards noon, when with a head wind, but a 
 strong current down, we tacked over to Kinderhoeck, lying 
 on the east shore sixteen miles below Albany. 
 
 Before we quit Albany, we must say a word about the 
 place. It was formerly named the Fuyck, by the Holland- 
 ers, who first settled there on account of two rows of 
 houses standing there, opposite to each other, which being 
 wide enough apart in the beginning, finally ran quite 
 together like a fuyck, 1 and, therefore, they gave it this name, 
 
 1 The fuyck is a hoop-net used for the purpose of catching fish, which 
 gradually diminishes in circumference from the opening until it terminates 
 in a small aperture through which the fish passes into a close net. The 
 body of it is in shape somewhat like a truncated cone. 
 
320 
 
 THE HUDSON" AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 which, although the place is built up, it still bears with 
 many, especially the Dutch and Indians living about there. 
 It is nearly square, and lies against a hill, with several 
 good streets, on which there may be about eighty or ninety 
 houses. 1 Fort Orange, constructed by the Dutch, lies 
 below on the bank of the river, and is set off with pali- 
 sades, filled in with earth on the inside. It is now aban- 
 doned by the English, who have built a similar one back 
 of the town, high up on the declivity of the hill, from 
 whence ii can command the place. From the other >ide 
 of this fort the inhabitants have brought a spring of water, 
 under the fort, and under ground into- the town, where 
 they have in several places always fountains of clear, fresh, 
 cool water. The town is surrounded by palisades, and 
 has several gates corresponding with the streets. It has a 
 Dutch reformed, and a Lutheran church. The Lutheran 
 minister lives up here in the winter, and down in IS T ew 
 York in the summer. There is no English church, or 
 place of meeting, to my knowledge. As this is the princi- 
 pal trading post with the Indians, and as the privilege of 
 trading is granted to certain merchants there, only as a 
 special benefit, who know what every one must bring 
 there, there are houses or lodges erected on both sides of 
 the town, where the Indians, who come from the far interior 
 to trade, live during the time they are there. This time of 
 trading with the Indians is at its height in the months of 
 June and July, and also in August, when it falls off; be- 
 
 1 A ground plan of Albany as it was in 1695, when the number of the 
 houses had doubled, but when the arrangement of the streets, gates, 
 churches and fortifications were not apparently altered from what they 
 were at this time, is preserved in Miller's Description of New York, London, 
 1843, Fig. 3. The new fort was built at the head of State street, which 
 then extended to Lodge street. The name of State street at that time is 
 not given, but Broadway is laid down and called Handelaer's street, that 
 is, Trader's street, and would seem from its sliape then, and as it remains 
 at the present day, to have been the original fuyck. 
 
ft 
 
 KINDERHOOK. CLAVERACK. 321 
 
 cause it is then the best time for them to make their 
 journeys there and back, as well as for the Hollanders, on 
 account of their harvests. 
 
 We came to anchor at Kinderhook, in order to take in 
 some grain, which the female trader before mentioned 
 [Illetie's mistress], had there to be carried down the river. 
 
 May 1st, Wednesday. We began early to load, but as it 
 had to come from some distance in the country, and we 
 had to wait, we stepped ashore to amuse ourselves. We 
 came to a creek where near the river, lives the man whom 
 they usually call The Child of Luxury, ('t Kind van Weelde), 
 because he formerly had been such an one, but who now 
 was not far from being the Child of Poverty ('t Kind van 
 Armoede), for he was situated poorly enough. He had a saw- 
 mill on the creek, on a water fall, which is a singular one, 
 for it is true that all falls have something special, and so 
 had this one, which was not less rare and pleasant than 
 others. . The water fell quite steep, in one body, but it 
 came down in steps, with a broad rest sometimes between 
 them. These steps were sixty feet or more high, and were 
 formed out of a single rock, which is unusual. I reached 
 this spot alone through the woods, and while I was sitting 
 on the mill, my comrade came up with the Child of Luxury, 
 who, after he had shown us the mill and falls, took us 
 down a little to the right of the mill, under a rock, on the 
 margin of the creek, where we could behold how wonder- 
 ful God is even in the most hidden parts of the earth ; for 
 we saw crystal lying in layers between the rocks, and when 
 we rolled away a piece of the rock, there was, at least, on 
 two sides of it, a crust or bark, about as thick as the breadth 
 of a straw, of a sparkling or glassy substance, which looked 
 like alabaster, and this crust was full of points or gems, 
 which were truly gems of crystal, or like substance. They 
 sparkled brightly, and were as clear as water, and so close 
 together that you could obtain hundreds of them from one 
 41 
 
322 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 piece of the crust. We broke some pieces off, and brought 
 them away with us as curiosities. It is justly to be sup- 
 posed that other precious stones rest in the crevices of the 
 rocks and mines as these do. I have seen this sort of crys- 
 tal as large and pointed as the joint of a finger. I saw 
 one, indeed, at the house of Robert Sanders as large as 
 your fist, though it was not clear, but white, like glassy 
 alabaster. It had what they call a table point. Robert 
 Sanders has much of this mountain crystal at his farm, 
 about four miles from Albany, towards the Cahoos, on the 
 east side of the river, hut we have not been there 
 
 On returning to the boat, we saw that the woman-trader 
 had sent a quantity of bluish wheat on board, which the 
 skipper would not receive, or rather mix with the other 
 wheat; but when she came she had it done, in which her 
 dishonesty appeared, for when the skipper arrived at New 
 York, he could not deliver the wheat which was under hers. 
 We set sail in the evening, and came to C layer rack 
 (Clover-reach), sixteen miles further down where we also 
 took in some grain in the evening. 
 
 2d, Thursday. "We were here laden full of grain, which 
 had to be brought in four miles from the country. The boors 
 who brought it in wagons, asked us to ride out with them 
 to their places, which we did. We rode along a high ridge 
 of blue rock on the right hand, the top of which was grown 
 over. This stone is suitable for burning lime, as the people 
 of the Hysopus, from the same kind, burn the best. Large, 
 clear fountains flow out of these cliffs or hills, the first real 
 fountains, and only ones which we have met with in this 
 countiy. We arrived ^at the places which consist of fine 
 farms; the tillable land is like that of Schooiv echten deel, low, 
 flat, and on the side of a creek, very delightful and pleasant 
 to look upon, especially at the present time, when they 
 were all green with the wheat coming up. The woodland 
 also, is very good for [making] tillable land, and it was one 
 
GOING ASHORE. 323 
 
 of the locations which pleased me most, with its agreeable 
 fountains. Coming back to the shore, I made a sketch, as 
 well as I could, of the Catskil mountains, which now 
 showed themselves nakedly, which they did not do to us 
 when we went up the river. They lie on the west side of 
 the river, deep in the country, and I stood on the east side 
 of it. In the evening, we obtained a still more distinct 
 view of them. 
 
 3d, Friday. We took on board early the rest of our 
 lading. Our tradress left us here in order to go back to 
 Albany, and we received two other passengers in her stead, 
 a young man of this place, named Dirck (Diederic), to 
 whom we made mention of our crystal. He said they had 
 at his place, a rock, in which there was a yellow, glittering 
 substance like gold, as they firmly believed it was ; he did 
 not know we were there, otherwise he would have pre- 
 sented us with a specimen. We spoke to him, as he was a 
 good hearted youth, several times of God and Christ, and 
 of the Christian life, and each time he was much concerned. 
 Truly we discover gradually more and more there is here 
 a hunger and thirst after God, and no one to help them. 
 They go everywhere wandering without a shepherd, and 
 know not where they shall turn. We also spoke to the 
 skipper's daughter, a worldly child, who was not affected 
 by what we said. The Lord will, in his own time, gather 
 together those who are of his elect. 
 
 We sailed from there about nine o'clock, but after going 
 eight or twelve miles, got aground in consequence of our 
 heavy lading, where we were compelled to remain until 
 four o'clock in the afternoon, waiting for high water. But 
 what was unfortunate, we missed a fine, fair wind, which 
 sprung up about eleven o'clock. Meanwhile, the passen- 
 gers went ashore. I walked a small distance into the 
 country, and came to a fall of water, the basin of which was 
 full of fish, two of which I caught with my hands. They 
 
324 
 
 TIIE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS 
 
 were young shad. I went immediately after the other passen- 
 gers for assistance to catch more, hut when they came, they 
 made such an agitation of the water, that the fish all shot 
 to the hottom, and remained there under the rocks. We 
 therefore, could ohtain no more ; but if we had had a small 
 . schep-net (casting net), we could have caught them in great 
 numhers, or if I had remained there quiet alone. But as 
 it was, we had to abandon it. These fish come at high 
 water from the North river into these little streams, where 
 they find clear, fresh water, and weeds and herbs. They 
 remain there eating and sporting, and, in the meantime, at 
 low water they are left in these holes or basins, and they 
 are thus caught in great numbers in many of the streams by 
 the Indians. 
 
 The water having risen, and the wind being favorable, 
 we went on board, and as soon as we were afloat, got under 
 sail. We proceeded rapidly ahead, and at sundown came 
 to anchor before the Hysopus, where we landed some pas- 
 sengers who lived there. 
 
 4th, Saturday. We went ashore early, and further inland 
 to the village. We found Gerrit, the glass-maker there, 
 with his sister. He it was who desired to come up here in 
 company with us, and he was now happy to see us. He 
 was engaged putting the glass in their new church, but left 
 his work to go with us through the country, where he was 
 better acquainted than we were. We found here exceed- 
 ingly large flats, which are more than three hours ride in 
 length, very level, with a black soil which yields grain 
 abundantly. They lie like those at Schoon ecte and Claver 
 rack, between the hills and along the creek, which some- 
 times overflows all the land, and drowns and washes out 
 much of the wheat. The place is square, 1 set off with 
 
 1 A ground plan of Esopus or Kingston, showing the stockade with its 
 gates, and the houses and fortifications as they are here described, may be 
 found in Miller's Description of New York. 
 
ES0PU8 OR KINGSTON. 
 
 325 
 
 palisades, through which there are several gates ; it consists 
 of about fifty houses within the stockade. They were 
 engaged in a severe war with the Indians daring the admin- 
 istration of the Heer Stuyvesant, which is, therefore, still 
 called the Hysopus war, partly because it was occasioned 
 on account of the people of Hysopus, and because they 
 have had to bear there the largest burden of it. In return- 
 ing to the village, we observed a very large, clear fountain 
 bubbling up from under a rock. When we arrived there, 
 we went to the house of the person who was the head of 
 the village where some people had assembled, who, having 
 no minister, and hearing my comrade was a theologian, 
 requested him to preach for them the next day. But our 
 skipper having finished what he had to do, we left there. 
 Here and in Albany, they brew the heaviest beer we have 
 tasted in all New JSTetherland, and from wheat alone, 
 because it is so abundant. The glass-maker informed us 
 that Willem, the son of our old people, was going to fol- 
 low the sea, and had left for Barbadoes ; that Evert Duyck- 
 ert, our late mate on our voyage out, who had gone as 
 captain of a ketch to Barbadoes and Jamaica, had arrived ; 
 that it was his ship we had seen coming in, when we were 
 leaving the city, and that, perhaps, he would go with her 
 to Holland. This place is about three-quarters of an hour 
 inland. At the mouth of the creek on the shore of the 
 river, there are some houses and a redoubt, together with 
 a general storehouse, where the farmers bring in their 
 grain, in order that it may be conveniently shipped when 
 the boats come up here, and wherein their goods are dis- 
 charged from the boats, as otherwise there would be too 
 much delay in going back and forth. The woodland 
 around the Hysopus is not of much value, and is nothing 
 but sand and rock. We had hardly reached the river, 
 when a man came running up to us as hard as he could, 
 requesting to speak to us. We inquired of him what 
 
326 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 he desired, when he complained of being sorely afflicted 
 with an internal disease, and said he had heard we well 
 understood medicine, and knew what to prescribe for him. 
 We told him we were no doctors, and had only brought a 
 few medicines with us for our own use, and most of them 
 we had given away. My comrade told him what he 
 thought of his disease, and that we could not help him : 
 whereupon, this poor wretched man went sorrowfully back 
 again, for he had spent much to be cured. We told him, 
 however, we would send him a brackish powder which had 
 done good in several cases, and which, if it pleased God to 
 bless it, would perhaps help him. We went on board the 
 boat, and immediately got under sail, with a favorable but 
 light wind, and by evening arrived at the entrance of the 
 Highlands. 
 
 5th, Sunday. The wind was ahead, but it was calm. 
 When the tide began to fall, we tacked, or rather drifted 
 along, but with little progress. We passed through the 
 Highlands, however, and came to anchor by the time the 
 ebb was spent. The weather was very rainy. 
 
 6th, Monday. The wind was still contrary, and blew hard, 
 therefore, we tacked, but in consequence of our being very 
 heavily laden, we advanced but little. We anchored again 
 when we went ashore at a place on the east side of the 
 river, where there was a meadow on fire. We saw there a 
 beautiful hard stone, as white and as clean as I have ever 
 seen either here or in Europe, very fine for building ; and 
 also many cedar trees of beautiful color and strong per- 
 fume. Some Indians came alongside of us in their canoes, 
 whom we called on board, and bought from them a very 
 large striped bass, as large as a codfish in the Fatherland, 
 for a loaf of stale bread worth about three stuivers, Holland 
 money, and some other fish, for a little old salt meat. 
 
 7th, Tuesday. At daylight the tide served, but the wind 
 was still ahead, though steady. We continued tackino- 
 
RETURN AGAIN TO THE CITY. 327 
 
 with considerable progress, and at ten o'clock, arrived 
 before the city of New York, where we struck upon a rock. 
 The water was falling, and we, therefore, immediately 
 carried out an anchor, and wore the yacht off. A slight 
 breeze soon afterward sprung up, and took us to the city. 
 The Lord be praised and glorified for his grace. We 
 delivered our letters, and executed the orders which were 
 committed to us. We inquired for Ephraim and de la 
 Grange, but they had not yet arrived. 
 
 8th, Wednesday. We had now nothing more to do, except 
 to get ready with all speed to leave for Boston. As we 
 had ordered some clothes, as we have said, to be made, we 
 urged the tailor to finish them. We iuquired for a boat 
 going to Boston, and found there were two, but the time was 
 up the next day for leaving, and we could not be ready so 
 soon. We went first to visit Theunis, concerning whom 
 there had been great talk during our absence. Even the 
 minister Niewenkuyse, dared to say that we had misled him; 
 and he intended to visit Theunis, for he had been to our 
 house. But Theunis anticipated him, and said he need not 
 give himself so much trouble, as he could go to him, 
 which he did. When the domine asked him about these 
 things, he told the domine he must not have any such 
 opinion ; that we had not misled him, but had led him 
 straight ; that he was not able to compensate us for the good 
 we had done him, since he was more edified, instructed, 
 strengthened, and comforted by us, than he had been by 
 any one in his whole life. The domine, therefore, had to 
 be satisfied, and said, " 'tis well then, 'tis well then, I did 
 not know that." Our old woman told us Theunis had been 
 so sad and oppressed again, they did not know what to 
 advise him. We, therefore, went to see him, and found 
 him home, in as good a frame of mind as could be wished 
 for one in such a condition. We asked him how he got 
 along. He said very well ; that God was good to him, and 
 
 t 
 
328 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 then related to us about his going to the minister, and his 
 standing upon the eminence when we were sailing by, look- 
 ing after us. We spoke to him affectionately, exhorting 
 him to faithfulness ; that he must instruct his wife and 
 children, and set them a good example. He informed us 
 that his wife was as changed as day from night in many 
 respects, and he hoped she would improve still more ; that 
 he would instruct his children as well as he could, if it 
 pleased the Lord they should be instructed, which com- 
 forted us, and we returned home. 
 
 The North river is the most navigated, and frequented 
 river in these parts, because the country about it, is the 
 most inhabited. Its larger population as compared with 
 . other places is owing for the most part, first to the fact 
 that the capital was originally established here, and has 
 ever since remained here, under whatever government has 
 „ prevailed, although the South river was first discovered ; 
 secondly, because it is the most convenient place for the 
 purposes of navigation, I mean the capital, and is the 
 middle and centre of the whole of New Netherland; and 
 thirdly, because this place, and indeed the river, possess 
 the most healthy and temperate climate. We will here- 
 after speak of New York, and confine ourselves now to 
 the North river ; which was so called for two reasons, and 
 justly so: the first of which is because, as regards the 
 South river, it lies in a more northerly latitude, the South 
 river lying in 39°, and the North river in 40° 25', and 
 being also thus distinguishable from the East river, which 
 although, it is more easterly, as its name denotes, never- 
 theless, lies in the same parallel. The other reason is 
 because it runs up generally in a northerly direction, or 
 between north by east and north northeast. It begins at 
 the sea in a bay; for the sea coast, between the North and 
 South rivers, stretches northeast by north and northeast, 
 and southwest and southwest by south; and from the 
 
THE RIVER PROPER. LOCAL NAMES. 
 
 329 
 
 North river, along Long Island for the most part east and 
 west. Besides this name which is the most common and 
 the best, it bears several others ; such as Maurits river, 
 because it was discovered, and taken possession of in the 
 time of Prince Maurice ; Montague river because one de la 
 Montague was one of the first and principal settlers, 1 and 
 lastly, Manhattans river, from the Manhattans island, or the 
 Manhattan Indians, who lived hereabouts and on the 
 island of Manhattans, now the city of New York. To be 
 more exact, its beginning it seems to us, ought to be re- 
 garded as at the city of New York, where the East river, 
 as well as Kil achter kol separate from the North 
 river. The waters below the city are not commonly called 
 the river, but the bay ; for although the river discharges 
 itself into the sea at Sandy hook, or Rentselaer's hook, 
 this discharge is not peculiarly its own, but also that of 
 the East river, Achter kol, Slangenbergh bay, Hacking- 
 sack creek, Northwest creek, Elizabeth creek, Woodbridge 
 creek, Milstone river, Raritan river and Nevesinck creek, 
 all of which deserve the name of rivers', and have nothing 
 in common with the North river, but with Long Island on 
 one side and Staten Island on the other. The water below 
 the Narrows to Sandy hook, are usually called the Great 
 bay ; and those of the Narrows and above them as far as 
 the city, and up to, and beyond Sapocanikke, the Little bay. 
 
 1 This origin of the name of Montagne, as applied to the North river, is 
 perhaps apocryphal ; yet it is a singular fact, that it is the only derivation 
 of the word given by any of the early Dutch writers, by whom alone it seems 
 to have been used ; probably because it is obvious enough that it is in- 
 tended to be Mountain river. De Laet, who first mentions it in his 
 Nkuwe Werldt, 1025, says the North river is called by some Rio de Mon- 
 taigne, which is partly Spanish and partly French, but he attempts no 
 explanation of its meaning in any of the editions, Dutch, Latin or French, 
 of his work : though in a subsequent page he calls the river the great rieviere 
 de Montaines. On many of the earlier maps preceding the work of De 
 Laet the region of this river is designated as Montana, a ridge of mountains, 
 evidently on Spanish authority. Hence probably De Laet derived the 
 ■name of Rio de Montaigne. 
 
 42 
 
330 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 Although the Great hay is so called, it is not hy any means 
 as large as that of the South river. Above Sapocanikke 
 the river is about two miles wide, and is very uniformly 
 of the same width as far up as the Hysopm and higher, 
 except in the Highlands, where there are here and there a 
 narrow strait and greater depth. Above the Hyaopiu, 
 which is 90 to 96 miles from the city, it still maintains a 
 fair width, but with numerous islands, shoals and shal- 
 lows, up to Fort Albany, where it is narrower. It is easily 
 navigable to the Hysopus with large vessels, and thence to 
 Fort Albany with smaller ones, although ketches and such 
 craft can go up there and load. It carries the ordinary 
 flood tide into the Highlands, but with much of a down 
 flow of water, only up to them ; though with an extraordi- 
 nary flow down and a dead neap-tide, the water becomes 
 brackish near the city. With a slight flow of water down, 
 and a spring tide, accompanied by a southeast storm, 
 the flood tide is carried quite through the Highlands, and 
 they said they had had a change in the water even as far 
 up as the Hysopust The land on both sides of the river is 
 high and rocky, but higher in some places than others, as 
 at the Highlands, eminently so called because they are 
 higher than the others. In passing by the Hysopus you 
 see the Kalskil mountains, a little inland, which are the 
 highest in this region, and extend from there, in the form 
 of a crescent, into the country of the Maguaas. Although 
 these mountains are from 112 to 120 miles distant from 
 the sea, there are skippers, who in clear weather have seen 
 them while sailing along the coast. 1 All the reaches 
 {racken), creeks (Men), headlands (hoeken), and islands, 
 bear the names which were accidentally given them in the 
 first instance : as Antonis neus (Anthony's nose) a headland 
 and high hill in the Highlands, because it has a sharp 
 
 'The highest mountains in the Catskill range is that called Round Top 
 which is 3,804 feet ahove tide water. Moulton'sHist. of New York, 243, note. 
 
BRANCHES OF THE RIVER. FISH. 
 
 331 
 
 edge running up and down in the form of a man's nose; 
 Donderbergh (Thunder hill), because it thundered there 
 frightfully at the time the first explorers of the river 
 passed it ; Swadel rack (Swath reach), a short strait be- 
 tween high hills, where in sailing through they encounter 
 whirlwinds and squalls, and meet sometimes with accidents, 
 which they usually call sioadclen (swaths or mowing 
 sweeps) ; Danskamer (Dancing chamber), a spot where a 
 party of men and women arrived in a yacht in early times, 
 and being stopped by the tide went ashore. Gay, and 
 perhaps intoxicated, they began to jump and dance when 
 the Indians who had observed them, fell upon them in 
 the height of their merriment, and drove them away. In 
 remembrance of this circumstance the place has since been 
 called the Dancing chambei'. It is on the west side of the 
 river, just through the Highlands. Boterberg (Butter 
 hill), and Hoyberg (Hay hill), the one, because it is like 
 the rolls of butter which the farmers in Holland take to 
 market, and the other, because it is like a haystack in Hol- 
 land; 'tClaver rack (Clover reach), from three bare 
 places which appear on the land ; 1 and Kinder hoeck 
 (Children's point), Noten hoeck (Nut point), Potlepels 
 Eylant (Potladle island), Kock achie, &c. 2 
 
 Above Fort Albany there are occasionally good flats on 
 both sides of the river, at the foot of the hills, and also 
 some fine islands up to the Cahoos ; which is where the 
 colony of Rentselaerwyck is planted. The river begins 
 above Fort Albany to divide itself, first by islands, and 
 then by the main land, into two arms or branches, one of 
 which turns somewhat towards the west and afterwards 
 
 1 A fancied resemblance to trefoil or three leaved clover (claver). 
 
 2 Coxsackie ; the true orthography of this name is probably Kocksrackie 
 (the Cook's little reach) to distinguish it from the Koeks rack (the Cook's 
 reach) below the Highlands, near New Amsterdam. See Nic. J. Visscher's 
 map of New Nethcrland (Noci Belgii Tabula). 
 
332 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 entirely west through Schoonechten, towards the country of 
 the Maquaas, and this branch, on which the Cahoos lies, is 
 called the Maquaas kil. The other preserves the course of 
 the main river for the most part, or a little more easterly, 
 and retains also the name of the North river. It runs far 
 up into the country, and has its source in a lake 120 to 
 160 miles in length, out of which a stream prohably 
 empties into the St. Lawrence, a river of Canada; for not 
 only do the Indians, but the French also, pass over here in 
 canoes from Canada. We, ourselves, have conversed with 
 persons who have thus come over, some by water, and 
 others by land and on foot. Of the Cahoos we have 
 already spoken, in relating our journey there. Those falls 
 are a great and wonderful work of God ; but, although 
 tbey have so much water that the wind causes the spray 
 and moisture to rise continually in the air, so that specta- 
 tors, who stand two hundred feet or so, higher, are made 
 wet, especially when there are any gusts of wind driving 
 from one side, as happened to us, yet we regard the falls 
 on the Northwest kil [the Passaic], as more curious, though 
 smaller, and having less water. Even on the North river, 
 there are several small creeks and falls more rare to see 
 than the Cahoos. Beyond the Cahoos, the land is not so 
 high above the water ; and no fish pass from below, into 
 the river above, in consequence of the interruption caused 
 by the falls, nor can any boats be carried over the falls, up or 
 down, which is a great inconvenience for those who live 
 above the Cahoos, at Schenectady and other places, al- 
 though when the country shall become more inhabited, 
 and they shall have more occasion, they will take means 
 to remedy this difliculty. Through the whole of that ex- 
 tensive country they have no fish, except some small 
 kinds peculiar to the streams, such as trout, sunfish, roach, 
 pike, &c. ; and this is the case in all the creeks where there 
 are falls. 
 
DOMINE VAN ZUEEN. 
 
 333 
 
 The North river abounds with fish of all kinds, through- 
 out from the sea to the falls, and in the branch which 
 runs up to the lake. To relate a single instance; some 
 persons near Albany, caught in a single haul of a common 
 seine, between five and six hundred fine shad, bass, perch 
 and other fish, and there were, I believe, over five hundred 
 of one kind. It is not necessary for those who live in the 
 city [of New York], and other places near the sea, to go to 
 the sea to fish, but they can fish in the river and waters 
 inside; or even to the Great bay, except such as live 
 upon it, and they can by means of fuycks or seines not 
 only obtain fish enough for their daily consumption, but 
 also to salt, dry and smoke, for commerce, and to export 
 by shiploads if they wish, all kinds of them, as the people 
 of Boston do; but the people here have better land than 
 they have there, where they, therefore, resort more for a 
 living to the water. 
 
 There is much beautiful quarry stone of all kinds on 
 this river, well adapted for building purposes and for burn- 
 ing lime ; and as fine cedar wood as we have seen any- 
 where. Nevertheless, for suitableness of navigation, and 
 for rich land on both sides, all the way up, the South 
 river excels the North ; but what gives the North river 
 the preference, and crowns it over the South river is, its 
 salubrious climate; though above Christina creek, the 
 South river is healthy, and it is every day becoming more 
 so, along the whole of that river. On the North river, 
 however, one has not to wait and die before this improve- 
 ment may take place. 
 
 As soon as we arrived in the city, we resolved upon 
 going to Long Island, for the purpose of taking leave ac- 
 cording to promise of the kind acquaintances we had 
 living there ; and, therefore, on the 
 
 9th, Thursday, we started about ten o'clock. In cross- 
 ing the ferry we met Elbert [Elbertsen Stoothoff], the 
 
334 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 father-in-law of Jan Tbeunissen, who came over with us 
 and professed so much friendship towards us. Elbert was 
 going to the city and intended to return again soon ; but 
 we thought it would not be before evening, which would 
 be too long to wait for him. We, therefore, proceeded on 
 to his house at the bay, where we arrived at noon We 
 found there Gerrit, the wheelwright; and Jan Tbeunissen 
 soon came in from the fields ; but, as the father [in-law] 
 . was not home we had to tarry, although we had intended 
 to go to Najaek. While we were sitting there, Dommc Van 
 Biuret? came up, to whom the boors called out as uncivilly 
 and rudely as if he had been a boy. He had a chatting 
 time with all of them. As Jan Theunissen had said to us 
 in the house, that if the domine only had a chance once 
 to speak to us, Oh, how he would talk to us! that we 
 avoided him, and, therefore, could not be very good 
 people; now, as we were there, we sat near him, and the 
 boors, and those with whom he was conversing. He spoke 
 to us, but not a word of that fell from him. Indeed he 
 sat prating and gossiping with the boors, who tal'ked 
 touDy and otherwise, not only without giving them a 
 single word of reproof, but even without speaking a word 
 about God, or spiritual matters. It was all about houses 
 and cattle, and swine, and grain; and then he went away ' 
 10th, Fndwj. The morning was rainy, and we could not 
 go out early; but the weather became better after break- 
 fast about nine o'clock, when we took our leave and left 
 for JSajack, where we arrived at eleven o'clock at Jaques's. 
 He had been sick with a large ulcer on his neck, but that 
 Was now b etter. We were welcome. Among other mat- 
 
 ' This was the Rev. Casparus Van Zuren who succeeded Rev. Theodoras 
 the charge of the Dutch churches on Long Island n l 6 " 
 He continued m tins pastoral service until 1685, when he received a caU 
 romh, former church at Gouderak in Holland and returned to ^Father 
 land. Strang's History of Flatbush, 79-80. 
 
A CONFESSION. SETTLING UP. 
 
 335 
 
 ters, he told us that he had heard the report about our 
 Theunis, hut he did not know what to believe or think of 
 it. We told him the whole truth about it, as he was 
 capable of believing it, for he was, at the best, a Socinian. 
 Theunis had formerly lived in that neighborhood and 
 Jaques at that time missed a cow which was pasturing in the 
 woods with the other cattle, as they always do. They 
 made a thorough search after her, but could not find her. 
 Although Jaques had some suspicion of Theunis, he did 
 not manifest it even to those who spoke to him about 
 Theunis in connection with the subject. It happened that 
 Theunis came to Jaques's house, when Jaques embraced 
 the opportunity, and took him on the shore near his house. 
 After talking of various matters, Jaques spoke to him 
 about his cow, how she was carried off, and they never 
 could hear any thing about her. He then began to push 
 Theunis a little closer, who laughed at it heartily at first ; 
 but by hard pressing and proofs which Jaques gradually 
 brought forward, and especially by appeals to his con- 
 science, whether he had not the fear of God before his 
 eyes, Theunis acknowledged he had done it, and, falling 
 on his knees, prayed for forgiveness. He had stolen the 
 cow, and killed her. Jaques, who is one of the justices, 
 said, I forgive you from the bottom of my heart, but I do 
 this, only to cause you to reflect .and desist from your 
 wickedness, and to show you that you do not know or 
 fear Gocl, and that you may fear him more. Whereupon 
 Theunis was much affected, and went away entirely sub- 
 dued, while Jaques was rejoiced that he had had the op- 
 portunity of relieving his mind about Theunis. Jaques, 
 who had known him from his youth up, said he had been 
 a very godless person, cursing and swearing, and, in a 
 word, living in direct hostility to Gocl. We told Jaques 
 that better things were now to be expected from him, at 
 which Jaques was pleased. 
 
336 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 We dined with Jaques; and his little son came and pre- 
 sented us a humming bird he had shot, Jaques impressed 
 us very much with his sincerity and cordiality in everything 
 we had to do with him, or wherein he could be of any 
 service to us. We left with him the little book which we 
 had lent to him, and which he said he had found much 
 pleasure in reading, Les Paise.es de M. Pascal. We took 
 our leave of him, and went directly through the fields to 
 Gouancs, where we arrived at two o'clock. Simon and 
 his wife were out upon some newly cleared land planting 
 watermelons; for water melons must always have new 
 ground, or the worms will destroy them. They went into 
 the house with us. They also spoke about Theunis, and 
 we disabused them of several things. They showed us 
 some pieces of ambergris, which their brother had brought 
 from the Caribbean islands, and which we thought was 
 good. We said to them what we deemed proper for them, 
 and took our leave, reaching the city in good time. 
 
 De la Grange and his wife, arrived this evening from 
 the South river by land, leaving their nephew behind, who 
 had made arrangements to come over with Ephraim in 
 eight days. Meanwhile, we made inquiries about going to 
 Boston, and they informed us that a vessel had sailed during 
 our absence, but we were not ready, and there would be 
 another one going in eight or ten days. 
 
 Ulh, Saturday. We finished with our tailor, and paid 
 him 77 guilders in zeewan, that is 25 guilders and 8 
 stuivers in Holland money [ten dollars and sixteen centsl 
 
 13th, Monday. We settled with our old hosts and paid 
 them. We continued our inquiries for an opportunity to 
 leave, but without success. 
 
 loth, Wednesday. As we were crossing the street, the 
 lord governor passing by, saw us and called to us ' We 
 went to him, and he asked us what we thought of the 
 lands around Albany. We answered, they were very 
 
RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCES. 
 
 337 
 
 good, but limited, being flats bere and there, and that 
 tbe woodland, in particular, was not worth much. But, 
 he said, you have not been to Wappings Ml. We replied, 
 that we had not. That is, be rejoined, a beautiful place, 
 about three-quarters of an hour inland, on a fine creek 
 which you can navigate with yachts, and it lies just through 
 the Highlands, directly opposite the Dans kamer. And with 
 that he left us. 
 
 16th, Thursday. As there was still a portion of our small 
 stock of goods remaining, we traded it with de la Grange, 
 who expected his boat from the South river with peltries 
 and other articles, with which he would pay us. 
 
 11th, Friday. The boat which they had said would sail 
 to-morrow, was posted to sail next "Wednesday ; but we 
 think it will be postponed still longer. 
 
 18th, Saturday. "We prepared our letters for patria. 
 
 19th, Sunday. A ship arrived from the Barbadoes. One 
 had also arrived last week from London, which had been 
 six weeks and three days on the voyage ; but we did not 
 receive any letters, nor did de la Grange, and we could 
 learn nothing certain. 
 
 Meanwhile we conversed with several persons who 
 came to visit us, among others with a woman who had 
 undergone several years ago, some remarkable experiences ; 
 of a light shining upon her while she was reading in the 
 New Testament about the sufferings of the Lord Jesus, 
 which frightened her very much. It did not continue 
 long but soon passed off ; yet it left, nevertheless, such a 
 joy and testimony in her heart as she could not describe. 
 She kept it to herself, without making it known to anyone 
 except only one woman. Some years afterwards, while 
 lying abed in the morning, she heard a voice which said 
 to her, she must make this glory known, which she did do 
 to Domine Nieuwenhuise, who told her he did not know 
 what to say. She had also mentioned it to others, and to 
 43 
 
338 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 one man who played the part of a wise man, hut who was 
 not a good man.' He said to her, "you must not go any 
 more to church, for you are wise enough, and will hecome 
 still wiser. You must not go to the Lord's Supper, for 
 the Lord has said, ' do that until I come,' " and many 
 other such things, in order to frighten the poor woman. 
 He once came to her house and asked her very harshly 
 and roughly, why she continued to do so, and in whose 
 hands she would rather fall, into the hands of God, or the 
 hands of men ? She said, poor woman, in the words of 
 David, " Rather in God*s hands." " And I not," said he ; 
 " I would rather fall in the hands of men," and then went 
 away. This has so sorely disturhed this poor woman, 
 that for a long time, she has not known what to do ; for 
 not to go to church, and to leave the Lord's Supper, she 
 could not in her heart consent. We told her that as re- 
 gains what had happened to her, many thingshad occurred 
 to us, and further, what was serviceable therein, without, 
 however, condemning them in her; hut, that the person 
 Avho had so spoken to her was a false teacher, and she 
 must be cautious of him ; that for herself in all these and 
 the like matters, she must seek for true grace, for a new 
 heart and power unto true repentance of life, and for true 
 humility of soul and renunciation of herself and the world. 
 And, thereupon, she left. Her name was Marie. She was 
 a Frenchwoman; and her husband, a Frenchman, who had 
 also been to us twice. He was the' son of Pierre Jardinier 
 of whom we have before spoken. He had a book with the 
 title of Le Grand Heraut, &c, which he highly esteemed ; 
 but he was a real reformed, of France, as they said. The 
 other person, who played the wise man, was also a French- 
 man. His name was Nicolas de la Pleyne, a relation of her's 
 and professed to be of the reformed. He had not, for a 
 long time, been to the Lord's Supper, but had now gone to 
 it again. He was a tobacco twister by trade. 
 
AN IMPORTANT PROMISE. 
 
 339 
 
 We wrote up the river to Robert Sanders, of Albany, 
 and to the poor sick man at the Hysopus, sending him a 
 vomitorium by Meus Hoogboom. We also went to see the 
 Boston skipper, but he had not obtained any freight. 
 
 22th, Wednesday. Mr. Reinclerman arrived over land 
 from the South river, leaving Ephraim still there. He 
 started the same day that de la Grange left there, but was 
 not able to overtake him. He had been all this time on 
 the road, and had had a difficult journey, in consequence 
 of there being so much water upon the land. 
 
 2M, Thursday. We went again to inquire after our boat, 
 and found that the time was changed for the voyage, which 
 made it a great inconvenience to us to be here so long, 
 without being able to accomplish any thing. But some 
 other Boston vessels had arrived, which, they said, would 
 return the first opportunity. 
 
 2ith, Friday. Ephraim arrived from the South river at 
 noon to-day, with his wife, and her sister's mother, and 
 other company, over land. 
 
 25^/i, Saturday. We went this forenoon to welcome him. 
 He was still very much attached to us, and so was his wife, 
 and both were persuaded and touched with the love which 
 we had shown them, and the wife particularly, for the 
 favor I had granted her, in sending her the translation of 
 the Verheffinge des Gestes, in reading which, she had ex- 
 perienced great enjoyment, and had been sometimes 
 tenderly affected. She thanked us for the little parcel of 
 braided goods, we had sent her, which had been very 
 agreeable to her. He promised, moreover, if it should please 
 God to call us again into this country to live and to esta- 
 blish his beloved church, we need not be at a loss to find a 
 place ; that the land which belonged to him, namely, Bohe- 
 mia in Maryland, where his father lived, and of which we 
 have before spoken, should with his consent, be applied to 
 no other purpose; that it should never go into English 
 
340 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 bands, hoping that God would give him this grace. He 
 had brought with him a piece of spermaceti, a portion of 
 winch he presented to us. He told us of the disposition of 
 the heart of the Ileer Jan Moll, towards us, who showed 
 us so much friendship, as we have before related, and will 
 show us all possible kindness in the future; that he had 
 taken well to heart what we had commended to him, and 
 had even reformed several matters in his household,' and 
 otherwise; and how it grieved him that Domine Tesse- 
 maker had not grace or ability enough to accomplish any 
 thing serious in the congregation there, of which he was 
 the elder, as well as president of the king's court. His 
 wife was so far gone in consumption, that they saw no 
 hope of her recovery. 
 
 26ih, Sunday. Domine Niewenhuyse being sick, there 
 was no preaching yet to-day. 
 
 27th, Monday. We went to call upon Ephraim again, in 
 order to speak to him particularly, but did not succeed in 
 consequence of his being visited so much, the more so 
 because his wife's sister was soon to be married. 
 
 28th, Tuesday. The supercargo of the last arrived Boston 
 vessel, named Padechal, was at M. van Clief s, who spoke to 
 him about our wishes, and he promised to give us every at- 
 tention and accommodation, and that he would leave in 
 the coming week. This inspired us with new hope of 
 getting away finally after so much delay. 
 
 Wednesday. The -before mentioned Boston trader 
 came to speak with us himself, at the house* of M. van 
 Cleif. We talked with him, and he promised us every 
 thing fair. The fare from ^ew York to Boston is twenty 
 shillings, in English money for each person, which with 
 the loss of exchange, is a pound sterling in the money of 
 Old England, which certainly is dear enough. 
 
 30^, Thursday. It was now Ascension day, according to 
 the old style, a day greatly observed by the English. It 
 
THE BURNT MILL. THE WALEBOCHT. 341 
 
 reminded us of the day we left home on our travels, which 
 was Ascension day, old style. "We wrote to-clay to Robert 
 Sanders at Albany, in order, as we were so long in New 
 York contrary to our intentions, he might regulate him- 
 self in the matter of our poor Wouter, the Indian, who, 
 according to our mutual understanding, was to go to 
 Boston by land, with an address from Mr. Robert Sanders, 
 to one John Pisgcon, merchant, of that city, so that we 
 might find him, or he us, in order to go to Europe with 
 us, which he so earnestly desired, and we endeavored with 
 our whole heart to effect ; and as this could not well be 
 done by the way of York, on account of the governor and 
 other hindrances, we had chosen that way, as it seemed to 
 us the best. 
 
 M. de la Grange came with his wife to invite me to 
 accompany them in their boat to the Wale bocht, a place 
 situated on Long Island, almost an hour's distance below 
 the city, directly opposite .Correlaers hoeck, from whence I 
 had several times observed the place, which appeared to 
 me very pleasant, although I had never been there. He 
 had an old aunt and other friends living there. We set 
 off accordingly in the boat, but the strong flood tide 
 carried us beyond the bocht (bay), to a place called the 
 Burnt Mill # ( Verbrande Ifeulen), where we could let the 
 tide run out. Meanwhile, we fished a little, but we caught 
 nothing except a small codfish. From there we landed on 
 the Mahatans, a little north of the Burnt mill, on a beauti- 
 ful farm, having two fine ponds of water before the door, 
 where a mill was standing. These ponds were full of sun- 
 fish, and other fish, some of which we caught. The flood 
 having run out at noon, we left there and arrived about 
 two o'clock at the Wale bocht. This is a bay tolerably 
 wide where the water rises and falls much, and at low 
 water, is very shallow and much of it dry. Inside of the 
 easterly point there was a ship aground, which had struck 
 
342 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 on the reef of rocks which put out from Corker's hook 
 towards this bay, and had floated over here and sunk. She 
 was a French privateer, which had taken some rich Dutch 
 prizes in the hay of Cainpeachy and was going through 
 here to New England, in order to dispose of the goods 
 which would not bring money enough in New York. 
 There were many goods still in the sunken ship, and they 
 have tried several times to raise her, but to no purpose. 
 We went ashore here, and observed several kinds of 
 fish, which I had not seen before in this country, such as 
 flounders, plaice, sole, &c. The aunt of de la Grange, is 
 an old Walloon from Valenciennes, seventy-four years old. 
 She is worldly-minded, living with her whole heart, as 
 well as body, among her progeny, which now number 145, 
 and will soon reach 150. Nevertheless, she lived alone by 
 herself, a little apart from the others, having her little 
 garden, and other conveniences, with which she helped 
 herself. 1 The ebb tide left our boat aground, and we were 
 compelled to wait for the flood to set her afloat. De la 
 Grange having to train next week with all the rest of 
 the people, at New York, bespoke here a man to go as his 
 substitute. The flood tide having made, we arrived home 
 by evening. 
 
 31*/, Friday. We sold to the wife of Evert, fjie late mate 
 of our ship, a small looking-glass, a steel thimble, a pound 
 
 1 This woman, in some respects an historical personage, was Catalina 
 Trico, one of five of her sex, who came over in 1623, in the first ship sent 
 out to New Netherland by the West India Company. She married Joris 
 Jansen de Rapalje, by whom she had ten children. She went first to live 
 at Fort Orange, where she resided three years, and where her first child, 
 Sarah, " the first born Christian daughter in New Netherland," was born, 
 on the 9th of June, 1625. She afterwards settled at the Waleboght, where 
 she died September 11, 1689, aged 84 years. Her depositions made the 
 year before her death, to be found in the Documentary History of New York, 
 III, 31-2 (4to, edition) 49-51, (8vo, edition), establish the time of her 
 arrival in this country, and her first residence. 
 
PETER BAYARD. 343 
 
 and a half of white darning yarn, and a half a pound of 
 brown thread, for which she gave us a piece of eight. 
 
 June 1st, Saturday. Nothing transpired to-day, except 
 several persons came to converse with us, to each of whom 
 we spoke according to his state. 
 
 2d, Sunday. There was no preaching in consequence of 
 Domine Mewenhuise's continued sickness. Ephraim and 
 his wife, among others, called upon us, and we had several 
 conversations with them, and satisfied them in regard to 
 our departure. 
 
 3d, Monday. We went to enquire whether our voyage 
 would take place, as they said, on Wednesday. They 
 now fixed the last of the week, which did not please us 
 a great deal, because there was so much fine weather pass- 
 ing away without our being able to do any thing ; and 
 also because we discovered we could depend as little upon 
 the word of the people of JSTew England, as of others, 
 although they wished to pass for more upright persons, 
 which we have not been able to perceive. 
 
 4:th, Tuesday. We were again visited by several persons, 
 and also by Ephraim, and one Pieter JBeyaert, a deacon of 
 the Dutch Church, a very good sort of person whom God, 
 the Lord, began to touch and enlighten, both in regard to 
 the destination of the world in general and of himself in 
 particular. He had a good intention to perform, through 
 
 It will be observed, that the record, which styles her daughter, Sarah, 
 " the first-born Christian daughter in New Netherland," (Benson's Memoir 
 in New York Jlisiorical Collection, II, 94, second series), does not conflict 
 with the statement of Jean Vigne {ante, p. 114), that he was the first male 
 bom here of European parents; although, Judge Benson, and others, 
 from this record only, call her the first born child. 
 
 Some further particulars in regard to Catalina Trico, and her daughter 
 Sarah, who married Hans Hansen Bergen, the ancestor of the Bergen 
 family, in this country, may be found in the genealogy of The Bergen 
 Family, 12, et seq. 
 
344 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 the grace of God, whatever God convicted .liiin the truth 
 of ; for, he said, he had for Home time past felt that God 
 had some purpose concerning him, and to incite him to 
 serve God with more earnestness ; but it was impossible to 
 do 60 in the city, and in this city of traders, where he 
 lived; and as he observed the hand and providence of God 
 in this matter because there had fallen to him a good piece 
 of land and farm, without any effort of his ; and as he felt 
 thaf a private life was better for him, and brought him 
 nearer to God, he intended to abandon the city and com- 
 merce and go and live upon his farm, which is on the 
 South river, a small distance below where Caspar Hermans 
 lives. We said to him on this subject what we believed 
 he was in need of, which he received kindly. 
 
 The large ship of Frederick Flipsen, of which Singleton 
 was captain, besides being lank of herself, was also very 
 badly stowed and laden. In attempting to run out to sea, 
 she was compelled to put hack to Staten Island, in order to 
 be restowed, which delays his voyage for several weeks. 
 
 5th, Wednesday. We now learned that our voyage was 
 postponed until Monday, and perhaps longer, so little 
 calculation can be made upon voyages in these parts. 
 
 (ill, Thursday. We visited Theunis, whom we found 
 well, the Lord confirming and strengthening him in the 
 grace he had manifested towards him, which comforted us, 
 and we wished him the blessing of the Lord. 
 
 7(h, Friday. We went to take our leave of the lord go- 
 vernor, who was very much engaged with the officers of 
 the burghers, who were to train the next day, and also 
 with the affair of the Lord Carteret, governor of Xew 
 Jersey. After we had been waiting a long time, he ob- 
 served us and called us. He asked us what we came to 
 say, not with his accustomed kindness, but a little 
 peevishly, as if he were tired of us and we annoyed him. 
 We answered, we came to take our leave of him, as we 
 
MILITIA TRAINING. 
 
 345 
 
 intended to leave for Boston, and to thank him for the 
 favor and kindness he had shown us. He enquired with 
 whom we were going ; and we named the person. He then 
 asked, when; and we said on Monday. Well, said he, 
 you will undoubtedly find there in the east a better oppor- 
 tunity than you have found here. We felt that he said 
 this in irony; and replied, we did not think so, as we had 
 seen several good situations within his government, and 
 had been informed they were not so good at the east. He 
 cut off the conversation by wishing us a happy voyage, for 
 which we thanked him and left. We also went to take 
 leave of Frederick Flipsen, whom we requested, in case any 
 letters addressed to us came into his hands, he would be so 
 kind as to direct them to us in the Fatherland, which order 
 we afterwards changed, and gave to M. de la Grange, 
 because we were apprehensive, as he and the governor were 
 one, it might be that our letters, coming from the Father- 
 land, had been withheld from us by them, as some persons 
 had absolutely declared, and others had half insinuated. 1 
 
 8th, Saturday. There was a training and. muster to-day, 
 which had not taken place before in two years, because the 
 small-pox had prevailed so much the last year. Some 
 were on horseback, and six small companies were on foot. 
 They were exercised in military tactics, but I have never 
 seen anything worse of the kind. They comprised all the 
 force of New York and the adjacent places. Dfc la Grange, 
 who supposed he could put in a substitute, had to appear 
 on horseback himself, although some who were to come 
 so, did substitute others in their places. 
 
 This day was the anniversary of our departure from home, 
 and we would have now taken our departure from here, if 
 it had not been postponed. 
 
 1 See note at the end of this chapter in regard to Frederick Phillipse and 
 his wife Margaret. 
 
 44 
 
346 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 9th, Sunday. Pinxter (Whitsunday). Domine Nicwen- 
 huyse, having recovered from his sickness, we went to 
 hear him preach, in order not to give any cause of offense 
 at the last. His text was the usual one. 
 
 10th, Monday. The second day of Pinxter. We had 
 several visitor.-* whom we received with love and affection, 
 each one according to his circumstances. 
 
 11th, Tuesday. We called upon Kphraim, from whom we 
 received in charge some spermaceti, with orders to send 
 him from Amsterdam a good new Bible. He presented us 
 on behalf of his wife, who was not at home, two beautiful 
 otter skins, which we dared not refuse, and accepted with 
 thanks. 
 
 The governor, attended by his whole retinue of ladies 
 and gentlemen, escorted Carteret, the governor of New 
 Jersey, in great pomp, home to Achter kol. As we are 
 now about to leave New York, and the affair of the Heer 
 Carteret appears to be finished, which happening during 
 our stay here, we would have noticed from time to time, 
 only we thought it was not well to write then what we 
 saw, for various reasons, we do not regard it improper 
 now to state what we heard of it. 
 
 These two governors lived at first in friendship and con- 
 cord. C.arteret came often to New York, and generally to 
 church, when he usually went to the governor's, in the 
 fort. A difference afterwards arose between them, but 
 the cause of it I have not heard, or whether it was per- 
 sonal or puhlid It is certain, however, that the governor 
 of New York wished to bring Carteret and his government, 
 to some extent, in subordination to him. Carteret claimed 
 to be as perfectly governor of his province, as the other was 
 of his, and to possess the same prerogatives as the governor 
 of New York, and even more than he, in respect to trade and 
 other privileges. The governor of New York disputed with 
 him all right of navigation, declaring the North river was 
 
ABDUCTION OF GOVERNOR CARTERET. 347 
 
 under his own jurisdiction, and, therefore, all persons who 
 passed in or out of it, must acknowledge him, pay him duties, 
 and even unlade there, and actually commenced seizing 
 some vessels. Carteret thereupon complained to England, 
 and the governor of New York sent Captain Dyer over 
 there as a commissioner, which he disavowed with an oath, 
 as it is said. This Dyer returned with skipper Jacob, or 
 about that time, but with what instructions I do not know. 
 There also arrived with him a collector for Boston, on 
 behalf of the king, as they said, which was contrary to 
 their privileges of liberties, and he was, therefore, never 
 acknowledged as such by the merchants there. 1 Frorn this 
 time forth the governor of New York began to act more 
 stringently towards Carteret, and also towards his own sub- 
 jects. Carteret obtaining information of what had been 
 done in England by Captain Dyer, called together all the 
 principal men among his people, who represented under 
 their signatures the circumstances of the case, and sent the 
 paper to England. The governor of New York went to 
 Staten Island, as to the jurisdiction over which they disa- 
 greed, and sent for Carteret to come there in order, as he 
 said, to negotiate with him in peace and friendship. Car- 
 teret probably perceiving his purpose, refused to go, and 
 requested of him if he had any thing necessary to com- 
 municate to come to him, as he was now not far from his 
 residence, and as he, Carteret, had been so frequently at 
 the fort in New York, he should come once to his house, 
 where he might be assured he would be welcome. Here- 
 upon the governor returned again to New York with his 
 object unaccomplished, and shortly afterwards, by procla- 
 mation, declared the nullity of the government of Carteret ; 
 that at the most he was only the head of a colony, namely, 
 New Jersey ; and that he was guilty of misusing the king's 
 
 1 This has reference undoubtedly to Edward Randolph. 
 
348 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 i 
 
 name, power and authority. He sent boats several times 
 to Achter kol to demand the submission of the place to bis 
 authority, which the people of Achter kol jeered at and dis- 
 regarded, being ready to uphold the king and their own 
 governor, whom they bound themselves by an oath to 
 maintain. This occurred repeatedly, and Carteret said that 
 so far from wishing himself to oppose it, he would, on the 
 contrary, immediately submit, if the governor of New York 
 would produce the least authority from the king for what 
 he claimed or did. He, however, never brought forward 
 any thing of the kind, but continued his proceedings ; and, 
 at night, and unseasonable hours, and by surprise, took 
 from New Jersey all the staves of the constables out 
 of their houses, which was as much as to deprive them of 
 the power to act. Seeing he could accomplish nothing by 
 force, he declared the inhabitants released from their oaths 
 to the Heer Carteret; they answered they could not 
 acknowledge any release from their oaths, unless by the 
 same authority which had required it of them or the 
 exhibition of a higher one, that of the king. At length he 
 corrupted one of Carteret's domestics, for Carteret had no 
 soldiers or fortifications, but resided in a country house 
 only. He then equipped some yachts and a ketch with 
 soldiers, arms, and ammunition, and despatched them to 
 Achter kol in order to abduct Carteret in any manner it 
 could be done. They entered his house, I know not how, 
 at midnight, seized him naked, dragged him through the 
 window, struck and kicked him terribly, and even injured 
 him internally. They threw him, all naked as he "was, 
 into a canoe, without any cap or hat on his head, and 
 carried him in that condition to Xew York where they 
 furnished him clothes and shoes and stockings, and then 
 conducted him to the fort and put him immediately in 
 prison. When they seized him at Achter kol the armed 
 boats had gone home, and the seizure was accomplished 
 
TRIAL OF CARTERET. 349 
 
 t' 
 
 through treachery. Two of the head men of Carteret 
 immediately took possession of his papers, such as were of 
 importance to him and traveled, one to Maryland, and the 
 other, crossing the upper part of the North river, to 
 Boston over land, and both to England, in order to re- 
 monstrate. The governor sent immediately to Achter kol, 
 took possession of the place, posted up orders, and caused 
 inquiries to be made for the man who had set Carteret 
 over the river, but without success. 
 
 While Carteret was in prison he was sick, very sick, 
 they said, in regard to which there were various surmises. 
 Meanwhile a court of assizes was convened, to which on 
 every occasion the governor was conducted by three 
 trumpeters in advance of him. Carteret was brought be- 
 fore the same court, after him. The governor had caused , 
 a seat to be erected in the court room high up above all 
 the others, and higher than usual ; on which he sat. Go- 
 vernor Carteret, as a criminal, was in the middle. The 
 court being seated, the governor presented Carteret as 
 guilty of misusing the king's name, power, and authority, 
 and usurping the government of New Jersey ; that he was 
 only the head of a colony, &c. Whereupon, Carteret hav- 
 ing the right to speak, said, it was far from his intention 
 to seek to defend his case before that court ; he did not 
 acknowledge it as a court having power to decide his case, 
 because, in the first place the question could not be de- 
 termined in a court of assizes, as it did not concern a 
 private right, but the right of the king ; in the next place, 
 if such a question could be disposed of in such a court, 
 this, nevertheless, could not act, because he was not subject 
 to its jurisdiction; and thirdly, because it was a court of 
 one party, and he said this without wishing to offend any 
 of the individual members of the court; yet, notwith- 
 standing all this he was content that he and his case should 
 be brought before them in order that they might be wit- 
 
350 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 nesses of what was done and to be done. As to what the 
 governor of New York alleged, he said it was wonderful 
 to him that he should be thus treated, and that they should 
 dispute a mutter which neither the governor of New York 
 nor his court, nor any one in the world had ever disputed, 
 or with reason could dispute. The governor said he had 
 never acknowledged him as governor of New Jersey. 
 It is surprising, said Carteret, that at one time there can 
 be disavowed before all the world, what has been assented 
 to before all the world at another; and thereupon he took 
 out of his pocket, several letters of the governor of New 
 York all addressed to the governor of New Jersey. The 
 governor did not know what to say to this except that he 
 had so directed them, because Carteret was generally 
 styled governor, and not because he was so in fact; " for," 
 said he, "although I have done that, can I, therefore, make 
 you governor?" "No," replied Carteret, " hut the king 
 has made me governor, and you as well as all the world 
 have acknowledged me as such." The acts of the king 
 in relation to the governorship were then produced, and 
 it was found that the one to Carteret was some time 
 older than that to the governor of New York, and, there- 
 fore, said Carteret, it is to be preferred. The governor 
 of New York replied, " mine is younger, and yours is 
 therefore annulled by it.'" "That is to be shown," re- 
 
 *Sir George Carteret, as already observed, derived his title to East 
 Jersey from the Duke of York, first by deed to him and Lord Berkeley 
 jointly on 24th June, 16G4, of the whole ofNew Jersey, and afterwards by 
 confirmatory deed to himself alone on 29th July, 1674, of East Jersey ac- 
 cording to the partition between him and Lord Berkeley. On the day last 
 mentioned the king had confirmed the grant to the Duke of York 
 of the whole territory between Connecticut river and Delaware bay' 
 These confirmatory patents were deemed necessary in consequence of the 
 intermediate reconquest of the country by the Dutch. But before they 
 were made, king Charles issued his proclamation dated the 13th of June 
 1674, acknowledging the title of Sir George Carteret to East Jersey and 
 
AN INDEPENDENT JURY. 
 
 351 
 
 joined Carteret. Although the governor of New York 
 had employed a lawyer, he could not succeed. When at 
 last the jury retired, in order to consult among themselves, 
 Carteret exhibited letters from the king himself, in which 
 he called him governor of New Jersey. The jury re- 
 turned and declared Carteret not guilty of what was 
 charged against him. The governor made them retire a 
 second time, saying to them it would be well for them to 
 consider what they did, as more depended upon the matter 
 than they imagined. They came back a second time with 
 the same verdict. "Whereupon the governor became very 
 angry, and caused them to go out again with threats that 
 they should look to what they did as there was too much 
 depended upon it, for themselves, their entire condition 
 and welfare. Whereupon Carteret told them they had 
 nothing to fear in committing themselves into the king's 
 own hands who had given him authority. Again the jury 
 returned and gave in the same verdict : that as Carteret 
 was not under them and did not acknowledge them as his 
 judges, they could not do otherwise in the case ; but they 
 advised Carteret to return to his house and business at 
 Achter kol as a private individual until the case be de- 
 cided by higher authority, which Carteret was willing to 
 do, not because it was a sentence of theirs against him, or 
 even their advice, but because he was compelled to do so 
 and could not at that time do otherwise. And thus the 
 affair stood at our departure, the governor taking him 
 back to Achter kol with all the magnificence he could. 
 Some think this was all a made up piece of work, and 
 that the governor of New York only sought to possess the 
 government and had no design against the person of 
 
 his right to govern the same. Andros was commissioned governor by the 
 Duke of York, of his territories, on 1st July, 1G74. Learning and Spicer, 
 49, et ante. It is this state of the case undoubtedly that was exhibited in 
 Governor Carteret's trial. 
 
352 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 Carteret; and having obtained what he wanted, had no 
 other or better means than to release him with some show. 
 The principal persons who have assisted the governor 
 herein, are Captain Dyer before mentioned, Captain 
 Nicols, and some others. This matter transpired before 
 all the world. The principal speeches which were made 
 in court were related to us and as regards the other 
 transactions we saw them. It is fortunate we were there 
 when the affair terminated, as we were thus enabled to 
 understand the nature of this government as well as of the 
 governor. 1 
 
 1 A brief account of his trial written by Carteret himself, though not 
 quite so circumstantial in all respects as that here given, is to be found in 
 Learning and Spicer, 683-4. "My imprisonment," he says, "was five 
 weeks before they brought me to trial. When I came to my trial my in- 
 tention at first was not to have entered a plea, and to have protested 
 against the jurisdiction of the court; but finding the court over-ruled by 
 him, I was forced to enter a plea and pleaded not guilty of what he al- 
 leged against me in my presentment, and was also ready to make out and 
 justify my actings as governor of New Jersey to be legal and by virtue of 
 power derived from the king, to which purpose recommended to the view 
 of the court my commission with other instructions to manifest the same 
 which was delivered with a charge to the jury, who after a perusal of the 
 same were to make a return of their verdict concerning it, with their ver- 
 dict in matter of fact, which was thus brought in by the jury : The prisoner 
 at the bar not guilty. Upon which he asked them questions and de- 
 manded their reasons, which I pleaded was contrary to law for a jury to 
 give reasons after their verdict given in. Nevertheless he sent them twice 
 or thrice out, giving them new charges, which I pleaded as at first to be 
 contrary to law, notwithstanding the last verdict of the jury being ac- 
 cording to the first brought in by them, Tfte prisoner at the bar not guilty, 
 upon which I was acquitted accordingly." There seems to be no reasona- 
 ble doubt that these proceedings of governor Andros were carried on 
 under the sanction of the duke, that the visit of Captain Dyer, to England 
 as explained by our journalist, was made for the purpose of obtaining in- 
 structions on this point, that he brought them verbally or in writing and 
 they were kept secret. The right seems clearly to have been with Car- 
 teret. Upon the arrival of the report of the proceedings of Andros in 
 England, the opinion of Sir William Jones was asked and obtained to 
 the effect, that in the grant to Sir George Carteret, there was no reserva- 
 
TKADE WITH BARBADOS. 353 
 
 As to what the governor has done in regard to his own 
 subjects: wherever they lived, they had the right to do 
 whatever they considered best for a livelihood ; but as this 
 country yields in abundance every thing most essential for* 
 life, if the inhabitants so apply it, its shipping does not 
 amount to much, for the reason that they have every thing 
 at home, and have little occasion to borrow or buy from 
 their neighbors ; and as the exports or imports were not 
 much, and produced few customs or duties in which his 
 profit consists, there was little bought from the merchants 
 of articles obtained from abroad. There was, therefore, no 
 profit from that source to them or him — ,for he also is a 
 merchant, and keeps a store publicly like the others, where 
 you can buy half a penny's worth of pins. They usually 
 make at least an hundred per cent profit. And here it is to 
 be remarked, that as Fredrick Flvpsen has the most shipping 
 and does the largest trade, it is said he is in partnership 
 with the governor, which is credible and inferable from 
 the privileges which Frederick enjoys above the other 
 merchants in regard to his goods and ships. Now one 
 of the principal navigations of this place, is that with the 
 Barbados, which formerly did not amount to much, for 
 the people could obtain the productions of Barbados cheap 
 enough from Boston, which had a great trade with that 
 island, and where its productions are cheap in consequence 
 of their exemptions from duties, for they paid scarcely any 
 duty, customs, or other charges. As no French brandies 
 can come into the English dominions, they can not be 
 
 tion of jurisdiction. — Colonial History of New York, III, 284. And a release 
 was executed by the Duke to Sir George Carteret, heir of Sir George, the 
 original grantee, who had died the preceding year. Andros was ordered 
 home, apparently to answer for his conduct in this and other matters in 
 whicli he evidently had acted under the duke's orders. He remained in 
 favor and was appointed in 1686 by the Duke of York, then King James 
 II, governor of New England, New York and New Jersey. 
 45 
 
354 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 4 « 
 
 imported into New York, though they are free at Boston ; 
 and as New Netherland is a country overflowing with grain, 
 much liquor was distilled there from grain, and, therefore, 
 they had no necessity of going elsewhere to buy strong 
 liquors. This brought no profit to the merchants, but on 
 the contrary a loss, for in the first place, a large quantity of 
 grain was consumed in distillation, by which means the 
 grain continued too dear, according to the views of the 
 merchants, who received it from the poor boors in payment 
 of their debts, there being no money in circulation ; in the 
 second place, it prevented the importation of rum, a 
 spirituous liquor made from sugar in Barbados, and 
 consequently any duties ; and thirdly, the merchants did 
 not realize the double per centage of profit, namely, upon 
 the meal they might send to Barbados, and upon the rum 
 which they would sell here. The governor, therefore, pro- 
 hibited the distilling of spirituous liquors, whereby not 
 only were many persons ruined who supported themselves 
 by that business, but the rum which had to be procured 
 from the merchants, rose in price, and they sold it as high 
 as they pleased ; on the other hand the price of grain fell 
 very much, because it could not be consumed, and the mer- 
 chants gave no more for it than they chose. And thus the 
 « poor farmers soon had to work for nothing, all their sweat 
 and labor going with usury into the pockets of the trades- 
 men. The trade to the Barbados now began to increase, 
 and the merchants and the governor to make more gains. 
 The common people, who could not trade to the Barbados, 
 but could buy what they wanted at Boston as cheaply as 
 they could order it from the Barbados, sent their flour to 
 Boston, and obtained their goods much cheaper than their 
 own merchants sold them. But as this was contributing 
 too much to Boston, although the trade had always been 
 free there, and was injuring the profits of the merchants of 
 New York, the governor forbid any further trading to Bos- 
 
THE FARMERS OPPRESSED. 
 
 355 
 
 ton ; though the people of Boston should have the privilege 
 to come and buy at New York on their own account. This 
 took away almost all the trade with Boston, which had been 
 very large, and straightened the farmers and common people 
 still more, while the merchants became, if not worse, at 
 least great usurers and cheats. The grain, by this means, 
 fell still lower in price, and while we were there, the people 
 could not obtain more than four or five guilders in zeewan 
 for a schepel of fine wheat, that is, sixteen stuivers or one 
 guilder of Holland money. 1 On the other hand, the mer- 
 chants charged so dreadfully dear what the common man 
 had to buy of them, that he could hardly ever pay them off, 
 and remained like a child in their debt, and consequently 
 their slave. It is considered at New York a great treasure 
 and liberty, not to be indebted to the merchants, for any one 
 who is, will never be able to pay them. The richest 
 of the farmers and common people, however, in company, 
 or singly, sent their goods to Barbados, on their own 
 account, and ordered from there what they thought proper ; 
 and although they had to pay duties and freight to the mer- 
 chants for the goods which were carried in their ships, they 
 nevertheless, saved to themselves the profits on the goods. 
 The governor at last has forbidden any flour to be bolted 
 except in the city, or to be exported, unless [the exporters] 
 come and reside in the city, and buy their burger or trader- 
 right, which is five beaver skins, and has forbidden all 
 persons whomsoever from carrying on trade, except those 
 whom he licenses, and who know what they must pay him 
 yearly, according to the amount of their sales. All goods 
 sold outside of the city, in the country, must be bought in 
 "New York, and not imported on private account from 
 abroad. Madame Rentselaer had even erected a new bolt- 
 ing mill before the last harvest by his advice, which was not 
 
 1 Forty cents for one bushel and a fifth of a bushel. 
 
356 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 yet in operation, when he prohibited bolting. Such was 
 the situation of affairs when we left there. It is true that 
 all goods imported into the South river from ahroad, had 
 to pay not only import, hut also export duties, hut those 
 bought in Xew York, or from the merchants there on 
 their own account, pay little or no export duty. And it 
 would appear as if the whole of the proceedings with Car- 
 teret and him were founded in this, if they have no 
 higher cause. 
 
 They say now, as he has accomplished these objects 
 in regard to his own people and Carteret, he will turn his 
 attention to the quakers on the South river, who claim they 
 are not subject to his government, and also to the people on 
 the Connecticut ( Versclie ririer), who claim to be members 
 of the republic of Boston, and even to those of Boston ; but 
 whether all this is designed by him is doubtful. 
 
 The shoemakers, in consequence of the abundance of 
 hides and bark in the country, have prepared their own 
 leather ; but as it was not necessary that every shoemaker 
 should have his own tannery, some of them have put up 
 several tanneries jointly, and others who were not so rich 
 or had not so much to do, had their leather tanned by them, 
 or tanned it themselves in those tanneries, satisfying the 
 owners for the privilege. The proprietors of the tanneries 
 began to exact too much from those who had their leather 
 tanned, whereupon the poorer ones complained to the 
 governor about it. He seized the opportunity to forbid all 
 tanning whatsoever, and to order that the hides should be 
 sent to Europe, and the leather ordered from there for the 
 purpose of making shoes, or else ready made shoes 
 imported. By this means the farmers and others would be 
 compelled to come and sell their hides to the merchants, 
 who would give for them what they chose, he would derive 
 taxes and duties from them and the merchants, their freight 
 and percentage of profit ; leather which is dear in Europe 
 
AKBITEAKY ACTS OF THE GOVERNOE. 
 
 357 
 
 would pay perhaps taxes once or twice there, and freight 
 and taxes or duties again here ; the merchants would have 
 their profit, and then the shoemaker would get the leather 
 for the purpose of making shoes. A pair of shoes now 
 costs 16 or 20 guilders, that is, four guilders in Holland 
 money [one dollar and sixty cents], what would they cost 
 then ? And as labor in Europe is cheaper than here, it is 
 certain that shoes made there would be cheaper than the 
 leather would cost here, and thus all the shoemakers here 
 would be ruined, and all their means go to the governor 
 and the merchants. This subject was under discussion, and 
 had not yet gone into effect when we left. As they dis- 
 covered that leather is contraband, I think the order is 
 stopped for that reason. The intention, however, is evident. 
 
 He has taken away land from several country people, and 
 given it to others who applied to him for it, because it was 
 not inclosed, and he wishes, as he says, the land to be cul- 
 tivated, and not remain waste. But it is impossible that 
 all the land bought in the firs.t instance for the purpose of 
 being cultivated by the purchasers or their heirs, as they 
 generally buy a large tract with that object, can be put in 
 fence immediately and kept so, much less be cultivated. 
 He has also curtailed all the farms in the free colony of 
 Rentselaerswyck, as well as their privileges. Some persons 
 being discouraged, and wishing to leave for the purpose of 
 going to live under Carteret, he threatened to confiscate all 
 their goods and effects. He said to others who came to him 
 and complained they could not live under these prohibitions : 
 " if they do not suit you, leave the country, and the sooner 
 you do it the better." 
 
 A certain poor carman had the misfortune to run over 
 a child which died. He fled, although the world pitied 
 him, and excused him because he could not have avoided 
 it. The court, according to some law of England, on 
 account of his having seven sons, acquitted him, provided 
 
358 
 
 TITE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 his wife with her seven sons would go and prostrate them- 
 selves hefore the governor, and ask pardon for their hushand 
 and father. The carman was restored hy the court to his 
 business, which he began again to exercise, when the 
 governor meeting him on his cart in the street, asked him 
 who had given him permission to ride again. The carman 
 replied : " My Lord, it is by permission and order of the 
 court." "Come down at once," the governor said, "and 
 remember you do not attempt it again during your life." 
 Thus he violated the order of the court, and the poor man 
 had to seek some other employment to earn his bread. 
 
 A citizen of Xew York had a dog which was very useful ' 
 to him. This dog, by accident, went into the fort, where 
 madam, the governor's wife was standing, and looked 
 steadily at her, in expectation, perhaps, of obtaining some- 
 thing from her, like a beggar. The lady was much dis- 
 composed and disturbed, and related the circumstance to 
 her husband. The governor immediately caused inquiries 
 to be made as to the ownership of the dog, summoned his 
 master before him, spoke to him severely, and ordered him 
 to kill the dog forthwith. The man was very sorry for the 
 dog, and endeavored to save him till the anger of the 
 governor was over. He placed him on board of a vessel 
 sailing from and to the city, so as to prevent his coming 
 on land. The governor being informed of this by some 
 spy or informer, I know not whom, but of such there is no 
 lack, summoned the man again before him, and asked him 
 if he had killed his dog. The man answered he had not, 
 but had done thus and so, whereupon the governor repri- 
 manded him severely, imposed a heavy fine upon him, and 
 required, I believe, two of his sons to be security until he 
 had killed the dog in the presence of witnesses whom he 
 would send for that purpose. 
 
 This will be enough, I think, to enable such as have 
 understanding, to comprehend him. As for us, we did not 
 
THE TRAVELERS SUSPECTED. 
 
 359 
 
 have much difficulty in interpreting him from the first. 
 Grace and power have been given us to act, so that neither 
 he nor any one else should have any hold upon us. For, as 
 we were openly before the world, he had not much to do 
 with us, the more so, as you could trust no one, because 
 he has people everywhere to spy and listen to every thing, 
 and carry what they hear to him ; so every one endeavors 
 to stand well with him. In a word he is very politic ; 
 being governor and, changeably, a trader, he appears 
 friendly because he is both ; severe because he is avari- 
 cious; and well in neither capacity because they are 
 commingled. The Lord be praised who has delivered us 
 safely, and the more, because we were in every one's eye 
 and yet nobody knew what to make of us ; we were an 
 enigma to all. Some declared we were French emissaiies 
 going thcough the land to spy it out; others, that we were 
 Jesuits traveling over the country for the same purpose; 
 some that we were Recollets, designating the places 
 where we had held mass and confession ; others that we 
 were sent out by the Prince of Orange or the states of 
 Holland, and as the country was so easily conquered, to 
 see what kind of a place it was, and whether it was worth 
 the trouble to endeavor to recover it, and how many sol- 
 diers it would require to hold it ; others again that we had 
 been sent out as the principals to establish a new colony, 
 and were, therefore, desirous of seeing and examining 
 every thing. And thus each one drifted along according 
 to his wishes. The papists believed we were priests and 
 we could not get rid of them ; they would have us confess 
 them, baptize their children, and perform mass ; and they 
 continued in this opinion. The quakers said we were 
 quakers, because we were not expensively dressed, and did 
 not curse and swear, that we were not willing to avow our- 
 selves as such; but they were jealous because we had not 
 associated with them. Some said we were Mennonists ; 
 
3G0 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 others that we were Brownists, and others again that we 
 were David Jorists. 1 Every one had his own opinion, and 
 no one the truth. Some accused us of holding conventi- 
 cles or meetings, and even at the magistrate's or burgo- 
 master's, and named the place where and the persons who 
 attended them, some of whom were recmired to purge 
 themselves of the charge, and others were spoken»to in a 
 different way. It was all finally found to be false, and 
 that they were mistaken, though few of them were cured 
 of their opinion. The ministers caused us to be suspected ; 
 the world and the godless hated and shunned us; the 
 hypocrites envied and slandered us ; but the simple and 
 upright listened to us and loved us ; and God counseled 
 and directed us. May he be praised and glorified by all 
 his children to all eternity, for all that he is, and all that 
 he does, for all that he is doing for them, and all that he 
 may do for them, to all eternity. 
 
 12th, Wednesday. Theunis came to our house and took 
 leave of us with great tenderness and with many tears, he 
 committing us, and we him, to God and his grace, recom- 
 mending himself to our prayers and the prayers of God's 
 children,— his beloved brothers and sisters, he said, to 
 whom, although he had never seen them, he requested us 
 to make his salutations. 2 In the evening Ephraim also 
 came to take leave, intending to go south in order to leave 
 his wife there during her confinement. We said to each 
 of them what we deemed necessary. 
 
 13^, Thursday. It was first announced we were to leave 
 
 1 David Joris, or George, the founder of the sect called David Jorists or 
 David Georgians, was a native of Delft in South Holland. He proclaimed • 
 himself the son of God ; and denied the existence of good and evil, of heaven 
 and hell, and future punishment. " He reduced religion to contemplation, 
 silence and a certain frame or habit of soul, which it is equallv difficult to 
 define and to understand."— Mosheim, XVI, 3, 24. 
 
 2 The community of Wiewerd. 
 
A DOUBTFUL ARTICLE. 
 
 361 
 
 on "Wednesday, then the following Saturday, afterwards 
 on Tuesday, and again on Thursday without fail. Finally 
 we spoke to the skipper or supercargo, Paddechal, who 
 told us he could not leave before the governor returned, 
 who had some letters of importance to send by him. This 
 evening Annetje Sluys, of whom we have spoken, came to 
 see us. She had some ambergris which she wanted us to 
 take, but we did not know what to do in regard to the 
 terms. Among others, we made three different proposi- 
 tions ; namely, we would fix the price at eight pieces of 
 eight the ounce bere, and would endeavor to sell it in Hol- 
 laud as high as we could, and would take one-half of what 
 it brought over that valuation for our trouble, provided we 
 could take our portion of the profit out in ambergris at 
 the current price ; or, we would take it all ourselves at 
 eight pieces of eight the ounce to be paid for in Holland; 
 or, she should give us one ounce for our trouble and we 
 would sell the rest of it for her and send back the proceeds 
 to her in goods. The second proposition seemed to be 
 the most profitable, if we had a correct knowledge of the 
 ambergris, but we had none at all ; and if it were not good it 
 would be a great loss. The first proposition might, or 
 might not, yield us a profit, but it seemed to us too trades- 
 manlike. It therefore remained with the last one. There 
 were twelve ounces of it good, or what we considered good, 
 and four ounces bad. One ounce was weighed off for us, 
 and the rest was taken upon that condition. My com- 
 rade gave her a- receipt, acknowledging it was received 
 from her on such conditions, and she gave a memo- 
 randum of the goods which she wanted for the pro- 
 ceeds. 
 
 [Here occurs a break in the journal, embracing a period 
 of five days, that is, from June 13th, to June 19th, and 
 filling twenty-four pages of the manuscript, equal to thirty 
 printed pages. The missing part probably contained a 
 46 
 
:ii»2 
 
 TIIF, HUDSON AM) ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 general description of the city of New York, according to 
 the practice of the journalist on taking final departure 
 from a place, and as promised in regard to that city, under 
 date of 8th of May.] 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 345. 
 
 Frederick Philipse, and Margaret, his wife, who was the acknowledged 
 owner and supercargo of the Charles, and was, with her daughter, Annetje, 
 a fellow passenger of our travelers in that ship on their voyage to New 
 York, have figured largely in these pages, and seem, therefore, hefore we 
 part from them, to require some particular notice, especially as he and some 
 other member* of the family were conspicuous in the early history of 
 the colony of New York ; and more particularly because the public records, 
 colonial and ecclesiastical, prove that the statements hitherto published in 
 regard to them are exceedingly erroneous. 
 
 Frederick Philipse, whose name is thus anglicised from the Dutch, 
 namely, Flipsen.or as he himself spelt it.Flypsen, that is, the son of Flip or 
 Philip, was born in the year 1626, at Bolsward, in Friesland, the little town 
 near Wiewerd, where our travelers, it will be recollected, entered the canal 
 boat on the morning they set out for Amsterdam, to take ship for New- 
 York. In what year he left Friesland, does not appear; but it was not in 
 I608, as the accounts referred to state, for he was in New Amsterdam in 
 when we find him named as an appraiser of a house and lot of Augus- 
 tine Heermans in that city. If he came over with Governor Stuyvesant, 
 as it is asserted and as is not impossible, then he arrived here in May, 1647. 
 But he came in no lordly capacity, nor for the purpose of taking possession 
 of landed estates, which it is pretended, he had acquired here. He was a 
 carpenter by trade, and worked as such at first for Governor Stuyvesant. 
 
 Margaret, his first wife, was the daughter of Adolph Ilardenbrook, who 
 came from Ervervelt, in Holland, and settled at Bergen, opposite New Am- 
 sterdam. She married Peter Hudolphus De Vries, a merchant trader of 
 New Amsterdam, in 1659, and had by him one child, a daughter, baptized 
 October 3, 1G60. Rudolphus died in 1661, leaving a considerable estate, 
 which, by^ law, devolved upon his widow and child with a community 
 of interest. 
 
 In October, 1662, bans of marriage between Frederick Philipse and 
 Margaret Hardenbrook were published, when the Court of Orphan Masters 
 of New Amsterdam summoned her before them, to render an inventory 
 of her child's paternal inheritance. This she declared she was unable to 
 do, probably in consequence of the commercial character of the assets j 
 
FREDERICK PHILIPSE. 363 
 
 whereupon the court received the ante-nuptial contract between her and 
 Frederick, Philipse in lieu of the inventory, in consequence of its embody- 
 ing an agreement on his part to adopt the child of Rudolphus as his own, 
 and to bequeath her one-half of his estate, unless he had children born to 
 himself, and in that case to give her a share equally with them. Adoption 
 was permitted by the laws, and also the limitation of successory estates by 
 marriage contracts, and the child thus in legal intendment, became the 
 child of Frederick Philipse upon the consummation of the marriage in 
 December following. In the baptismal record, the name of this child is 
 written Maria. This may have been, and probably was, an error of the 
 registrar; certain it is, that Frederick Philipse, by his will, made pro- 
 vision for a child, which he calls his oldest daughter, named Eva, who was 
 not his child by marriage, as it seems ; and he makes no provision for 
 Maria, as he was bound to do by his marriage contract, unless it be that 
 for Eva. The conclusion, therefore, seems irresistible, that Eva and Maria 
 were one and the same person. 
 
 By his marriage with Margaret Hardenbrook, Frederick Philipse became 
 entitled to a community of property with her. She did not, however, relin- 
 quish to him the sole management of the estate which she possessed, but 
 on the contrary, continued the business of her former husband, a practice 
 not uncommon in the colony, and became a woman-trader, a character 
 which does not appear to have always been a very amiable one, judging 
 from our journalist's description of her, and of the mistress of Illetie the 
 Indian at Albany. She went repeatedly to Holland in her own ships, as 
 supercargo, and bought and traded in her own name. By her fortune, 
 Thrift, and enterprise, however, as well as by his own exertions, Philipse 
 soon came to be the richest man in the colony. His property was valued 
 in 1674 by commissioners appointed by Governor Colve, at 80,000 guilders; 
 an amount large in those days, and yet small compared with his subse- 
 quent wealth. On her death, his commercial operations became more 
 extensive. It is not certain when Margaret died, though it was not in 1G62, 
 as strangely stated by some, for that was the year of her marriage with 
 Frederick Philipse. She was alive, and a passenger in the ship with our 
 travelers in 1679, but she must have died before 1692, when Frederick 
 Philipse espoused Catharine van Cortlandt, widow of John Derval and 
 daughter of Oloff Stevensz van Cortlandt, for his second wife. He became 
 the largest trader with the Five Indian Nations at Albany, sent ships to both 
 the East and West Indies, imported slaves from Africa, and engaged, as 
 it was with good reason alleged, in trade with the pirates at Madagascar. 
 His gains and profits were much enhanced, it was believed, by his con- 
 nection with the government, and his intimacy with the governors, by 
 which he obtained immunities not granted to others. He was a member of 
 the council under all the governors, from Andros to Bellomont, embracing 
 an uninterrupted period of twenty years, with the exception of the brief 
 usurpation ofLeisler. When the latter event occurred, he was in conjunc- 
 tion with Stephen van Cortlandt, left in charge of the government by 
 
3G4 
 
 THE HUDSON AND ITS AFFLUENTS. 
 
 Lieutenant Governor Nicholson. After resisting for a few days the pro- 
 ceedings of Leisler, as became his position, he wisely, when the public 
 sentiment pronounced itself in favor of them, submitted to them as the acts 
 of the government ik- facto, much to the chagrin of Bayard and his associates 
 lie was subsequently clothed by Governor Slaughter with similar powers, 
 in conjunction with Nicholas Bayard, during the absence of that governor 
 at Albany. He had the ear of Fletcher, who bestowed upon him and 
 his son Adolphus, extravagant grants of land. When the Leisler party 
 came into power under Bellomont, in 1098, he resigned his seat in council, 
 inconsequence, as he alleged, of his advanced age, which was then 
 seventy-two, though In reality, it would seem, to avoid, if possible, the blow 
 Which w as already given in an order for his removal by the home govern- 
 ment, on account of his practices with the pirates, an order which arrived 
 a few weeks after his resignation. 
 
 In 1080, he acquired a piece of land from the Indians, the title to which 
 was confirmed by patent in the same year from Governor Andros, situated 
 on the Pocanteco or Mill river, in the county of Westchester, running along 
 Sleepy Hollow, the region since made famous in our legendary lore. 'I his 
 acquisition was the nucleus of the large tract in that county extending 
 from Youkers to the Croton river, which, with a small piece on the oppo- 
 site side of the Hudson, near Tappaan, and the bridge across the Spytcnduy- 
 vel, called Kingsbridge, were purchased or patented by him, and erected by 
 Governor Fletcher in 1003, into a manor, with the customary privileges of 
 a lordship, of holding court lcet and court baron, and exercising advow- 
 son and right of patronage of all churches to be erected within its limits, 
 to be held by him, his heirs and assigns, by the name of the manor of 
 Philipsborough. This property remained in the family until the American 
 revolution, when, by reason of the adherence to the British crown of the 
 proprietor. Colonel Frederick Philipse, great grandson of the founder of 
 the estate, it was confiscated by the state of New York. 
 
 Frederick Philipse was, as we have seen, twice married. He had no 
 children by Catharine van Cortlandt, his second wife. By Margaret Ilar- 
 denbrook, he had four : L Philip, baptized Ma rch 18, 1664 II. Adolphus, 
 baptized November 15, 1605. III. Annetje, baptized November 27, 1007, 
 and IV. Bombout, baptized January 9, 1070. The genealogy in Burke's 
 Dictionary of the Landed Gentry of Great Britain and Ireland, says he had 
 two children, Frederick, born in 1050, and Eva, and makes Philip and 
 Adolphus to be sons of this Frederick by Margaret Hardenbrook j while 
 that in Bolton's History of Westchester County, gives him one child, Frede- 
 rick, born in 1050, at Bolsward, and makes Margaret Hardenbrook to be 
 the wife of this Frederick, and Philip, Adolphus, Eva and Annetje to be 
 bis children. The errors of these statements are so palpable on the face of 
 them, as hardly to require being pointed out. Margaret Hardenbrook 
 married Frederick Philipse, as the record shows, in December, 1662 ; surely 
 then, her husband could not have been born in 1656, only six years before. 
 Frederick Philipse was in this country as early as 1653, remained 
 
FREDERICK PHILIPSE. 
 
 365 
 
 here and married his first wife in 16C2. He could not have had a son born 
 to him in Friesland in 1G56. All this confusion arises from the mistake of 
 these writers in supposing that there was a son Frederick born to the first 
 Frederick, and attributing to two Fredericks what pertains to one. 
 
 Frederick Philipse, the first of the name in this country, and the subject 
 of t his sketch, died in 1702, in the seventy-seventh year of his age. He left a 
 will, by which he devised to Frederick Philipse, his grandson, the son of 
 Philip, his oldest son, the Yonkcr's plantation and other lands ; to Eva, his 
 oldest daughter, who married Jacobus van Cortlandt, May 7, 1691, a house 
 and ground in New York, and a mortgage of Domine Selyns ; to his son 
 Adolphus, the land at the upper mills in Westchester county ; and to his 
 daughter Annetje, wife of Philip French, a house and ground in New 
 York, and an estate in Bergen. Rombout is not mentioned in the will, 
 having probably died in infancy ; nor is there an}' mention of any son 
 Frederick, or of the children of such a son. Eva, his oldest daughter, was, 
 as we have concluded, such by adoption, and not by birth. This is to be 
 inferred from the absence of her name in the baptismal record, and by 
 the times of the birth of his other children as given by the same record. 
 
 Adolphus Philipse was, for several years, speaker of the colonial assem- 
 bly. Mary, daughter of Frederick Philipse, named in the will of the first 
 Frederick, and sister of Colonel Frederick Philipse, in whose hands the 
 manorial estate was confiscated, won, it is said, the affections of Wash- 
 ington, but the demands of his country called him away, and she became 
 the wife of Colonel Morris, who embraced the cause of the king. 
 
 As this sketch of Frederick Philipse differs materially from the accounts 
 heretofore published, we adduce here the authorities for all the essential 
 facts presented. 0' Callaghan's Calendar of Butch Manuscripts, 50,210, 218. 
 Valentine's History of New York, 144. New York Colonial Manuscripts, 
 X, 281. Calendar of English Manuscripts, 26, 118, 158, 206, 270. New Neth- 
 erland Register, 100. Valentine's New York Manual for 1862, 617, 623 ; for 
 1863, 801-807. Record of Court of Orphan Masters, city clerk's office, New 
 York, sub dato December 18, 1662. New York Colonial History, II, 699 ; III, 
 IV, passim. Records of Wills, in surrogate's office, New York, Book VII, 
 101. Burke's Biclionary of the Landed Gentry of Great Britain and Ireland 
 for 1851, 1, 890; II, 1361. Bolton's History of Westchester County,!, 320, 
 323, and pedigree ; II, 418, 466, 467. BlaJce's History of Putnam County, 80-3. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 op orni 
 
 VOYAGE FROM NEW NETHERLAND 
 
 UNTIL 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL AT W1EWERD, LN FRIESLAND. 
 
BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 1680, June 19th, Wednesday. We embarked at noon in 
 the yacht of Mr. Padechcd, supercargo and captain, resid- 
 ing in Boston. The anchor was weighed at last ; but as 
 we had to wait a long time for the governor's yacht, the 
 tide was nearly all spent. The wind was from the 
 northwest. The crew consisted of three men and a boy, 
 besides the captain ; but there was another sailor on board 
 who was a passenger. Many persons came to escort the 
 captain, and also a woman, who was going with us ; and 
 as soon as they had gone we hastened to leave. The wind 
 being ahead, we tacked and towed, until we anchored at 
 Hellgate, almost at flood tide, at four o'clock in the 
 afternoon. The woman who was going over with us, was 
 born at Rhode Island, in New England, and was the wife of 
 the captain of the Margaret, one of Frederick Flipsen's ships. 
 I have never in my whole life, witnessed a worse, more 
 foul, profane or abandoned creature. She is the third 
 individual we have met with from New England, and we 
 remarked to each other, if the rest of the people there, are 
 to be judged by them, we might, perhaps, do them great 
 injustice ; for the first one from Boston whom we saw was 
 a sailor, or he passed for one, on board the ship in which 
 we sailed from the Fatherland. They called him the 
 doctor, and if he were not, or had not been a charlatan, he 
 resembled one; the second, was our skipper, Padechal, 
 who had told us so many lies ; and now, this infamous 
 47 
 
370 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 woman. They all belong to this people who, it is said, pre- 
 tend to special dcvoutness j hut we found them, the sailor, 
 and the rest, like all other Englishmen, who, if they are not 
 more detestable than the Hollanders, are at least no better. 
 
 20th, Thursday. It was about ten o'clock in the forenoon 
 before the flood began to make. The wind was south- 
 west, but light. "We weighed anchor and towed through 
 Ifellgate, when the wind and tide served us until we passed 
 Wbitefltone (dc witte klip), as far as which the tide, from the 
 direction of New York, usually reaches. We sailed 
 bravely by and obtained the ebb tide in our favor which 
 carried us this evening beyond Milford. 
 
 21*/, Friday. We had shot ahead very well during the 
 night, with the wind west and south southwest, on a course 
 due east, so that by morning we reached the end of Long 
 Island. The governor's yacht which had to stop at Fisher's 
 island, a little to the leeward of us, which is subject to New 
 England, but which the governor is now endeavoring to 
 bring under his authority, and for that purpose had sent 
 his yacht there with letters, left us this morning with a 
 salute. We observed a vessel ahead of us under sail, 
 running before the wind, and we came up to her about 
 nine o'clock. She was a small flute from Milford, laden 
 with horses and bound for Barbadoes. We hailed her, and 
 as her captain was an acquaintance of our captain and an 
 independent, our captain went on board of her where he 
 staid two hours. When he returned we kept our course, 
 and she sailed to the south in order to get to sea. As soon 
 as we reached the end of Long Island, they began to throw 
 their fish lines, and continued to catch mackerel all day 
 long. I think the European mackerel are better and 
 fatter. We came to an island called Maertens Wmgaert 
 (Martha's Vineyard), about four o'clock in the afternoon, 
 having the Elizabeth islands on the larboard and sailing 
 between the two, with our course easterly and a lighter 
 
DOUBLING CAPE COD. 
 
 371 
 
 wind. Our captain had prayers every evening, performed 
 in this way. The people were called together, and 
 then, without any thing heing spoken previously, he read a 
 chapter, then a psalm or part of one was sung, after that 
 they all turned their hacks to each other, half kneeling, 
 when a common formulary of prayer was said which 
 was long enough, but irreverently enough delivered. It 
 was not done mornings. From what I have experienced 
 the Hollanders perform it better, are more strict mornings 
 and evenings, and more devout. 
 
 There was no moon, and the weather was cloudy. We 
 continued sailing onward until two o'clock after midnight, 
 when the captain going aloft, cried out, " Strike the sails ! 
 strike the sails ! let them run ! let them run ! we are on 
 the rocks, let the anchor fall ! " This startled me so that 
 I cannot tell how I reached the deck, and ran forward. I 
 saw we were indeed close upon a reef of rocks directly 
 before us, and that we were under considerable headway. 
 We did our best to lower the sails, and throw the anchor 
 over. The headway was checked some, but the anchor 
 would not hold. We found that the spritsail had caught 
 in the anchor stock in consequence of the hurry in lower- 
 ing the sail and throwing anchor, but it was some time 
 before we could discover what was the matter and get 
 the anchor loose ; it then held fast in three fathoms of 
 water at a musket shot's distance from the reef and about 
 as far from the shore. We lay there until daylight on a 
 lee shore, but fortunately it did not blow hard. 
 
 22d, Saturday. As soon as the day broke, and we saw 
 where we were, we got under sail again with the wind, 
 the same as before. In sailing between the land, namely 
 Maeriens Wyngaert and the reef, the course is to the point 
 of the island, running east southeast in three and two and 
 a half fathoms till you have this point on the side, and 
 then you have passed the reef. We continued on until we 
 
372 
 
 BOSTON, AND TITE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 reached the westerly point of the inland of Nanlochd, along 
 which we sailed to the easterly point, and thence due 
 north until noon; hut the flood tide running in strong, 
 and the vessel not being well steered, we were carried to 
 the west among the shoals. The weather was rather 
 rough and the atmosphere hazy, so that we could not see 
 far. The shoals were ahead of us, and we had only two 
 fathoms, and even less, of water. The captain and helms- 
 man, were confused, and hardly knew where they were. 
 This happened two or three times. In order to avoid the 
 shoals, we had to keep to the east. We were fearful we 
 would strike upon them, and it was, therefore, best to look 
 out and keep free of them. About three o'clock we 
 caught sight of the main land of Cape Cod, to which we 
 sailed northerly. We arrived inside, the cape about six 
 o'clock, with a tolerable breeze from the west, and at the 
 same time saw vessels to the leeward of us which had an 
 east wind, from which circumstance we supposed we were 
 in a whirlwind. These two contrary winds striking 
 against each other, the sky became dark, and they whirled 
 by each other, sometimes the one, and sometimes the 
 other being strongest, compelling us to lower the sails 
 several times. I have never seen such a twisting and 
 turning round in the air, as at this time, the clouds being 
 driven against each other, and close to the earth. At last 
 it became calm and began to rain very hard, and to thun- 
 der and lighten heavily. We drifted along the whole 
 night in a calm, advancing only twelve or sixteen miles. 
 
 23d, Sunday. A breeze blew up from the northeast. It 
 was fortunate for us, that we arrived inside of Cape Cod 
 yesterday evening, before this unfavorable weather, as we 
 would otherwise have been compelled to put back to 
 Rhode Island. We could now still proceed ; and we 
 laid our course northwest to Boston. We arrived at the 
 entrance of the harbor at noon, where we found a con- 
 
ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. 
 
 373 
 
 siderable rolling sea caused by the ebb tide and wind 
 being against each other. There are about thirty islands 
 here, not large ones, through which we sailed, and reached 
 Boston at four o'clock in the afternoon, our captain run- 
 ning with his yacht quite up to his house in the Milk- 
 ditch (Melk-sloot). 
 
 The Lord be praised who has continued in such a 
 fatherly manner to conduct us, and given us so many 
 proofs of his care over us ; words are wanting to express 
 ourselves properly, more than occasions for them, which 
 we have had abundantly. 
 
 We permitted those most in haste to go ashore before 
 us, and then went ourselves. The skipper received us 
 politely at his house, and so did his wife ; but as it was 
 Sunday, which it seems is somewhat strictly observed by 
 these people, there was not much for us to do to-day. Our 
 captain, however, took us to his sister's where we were 
 welcome, and from there to his father's, an old corpulent 
 man, where there was a repetition of the worship, which 
 took place in the kitchen while they were turning the spit, 
 and busy preparing a good supper. We arrived while they 
 were engaged in the service, but he did not once look up. 
 When he had finished, they turned round their backs, 
 and kneeled on chairs or benches. The prayer was said 
 loud enough to be heard three houses off, and also long 
 enough, if that made it good. This done, he wished us 
 and his son welcome, and insisted on our supping with 
 him, which we did. There were nine or ten persons at 
 the table. It being in the evening, and we strangers, Mr. 
 Padechal requested us to lodge with him this night, as we 
 did, intending in the morning to look out for accommoda- 
 tions. We were taken to a fine large chamber, but we 
 were hardly in bed before we were shockingly bitten. I 
 did not know the cause, but not being able to sleep, I 
 became aware it was bed bugs, in such great numbers as 
 
374 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 was inconceivable. My comrade who was very sleepy, 
 fell asleep at first. He tumbled about very much; but I 
 did not sleep any the whole night. In the morning we 
 saw how it was, and were astonished we should find such 
 a room with such a lady. 
 
 But before we part from the East river, we must briefly 
 describe it. We have already remarked that it is incor- 
 rect to call this stream a river, as both ends of it run into 
 the sea. It is nothing but salt water, an arm of the sea, 
 embracing Long Island. It begins at the Little bay of 
 the North river, before the city of New York, pouring its 
 waters with those of the North river, into the sea, between 
 Sandy hook and Coney island. In its mouth before the 
 city, and between the city and Red hook, on Long Island, 
 lies Noten island opposite the fort, tfie first place the Hol- 
 landers ever occupied in this bay. It is now only a farm with 
 a house and a place upon it where the governor keeps a 
 parcel of sheep. From the city, or from this island, the 
 river runs easterly to Correlaers hoeclc, and the Wale bocht, 
 where it is so narrow they can readily hear one another 
 calling across it. A little west of Correlaers hocck, a reef 
 of rocks stretches out towards the Wale bocht, half way 
 over, on which, at low tide, there is only three or four feet 
 of water, more or less. The river then runs up northerly 
 to Hellgate, where there is an island, in front of which on 
 the south side are two rocks, covered at high water, and 
 close to the island, besides others which can be easily seen. 
 Hellgate is nothing more than a bend of the river, which 
 coming up north, turns thence straight to the east. It is 
 narrow here, and in the middle of the bend or elbow, lie 
 several large rocks. On either side it is wider, conse- 
 quently the current is much stronger in the narrow part ; 
 and as it is a bend the water is checked, and made to eddy, 
 and then , striking these rocks, it must make its way to 
 one side or the other, or to both; but it cannot make its 
 
MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 
 
 375 
 
 way to both, because it is a crooked bay, and therefore, it 
 pursues its course until it is stopped on the opposite side 
 of the bay, to which it is driven, so much the more be- 
 cause it encounters these rocks on the way. Now, between 
 the rocks, there is no current, and behind them it is still ; 
 and as tbe current for the most part is forced from one 
 side, it finds liberty behind these rocks, where it makes a 
 whirlpool. You must, therefore, be careful not to ap- 
 proach this whirlpool, especially with small vessels, as 
 you will be in danger of being drawn under. It makes 
 such a whirlpit and whistling that you can hear it for a 
 quarter of an hour's distance, but this is when the tide is 
 ebbing, and only, and mostly, when it is running the 
 strongest. The river continues from thence easterly, 
 forming several islands, generally on the left hand side, 
 although there are some in a large bay on the right. 
 When you have passed the large bay of Flushing, which 
 is about eight miles from Hellgate, or rather, as soon as 
 you get round the point, and begin to see an opening, you 
 must keep well to the northeast, in order to sail clear of a 
 long ledge of rocks, some of which stick out of the water 
 like the lizard in the channel near Falmouth. After you 
 have passed this you sail easterly along the shore without 
 any thing in the way. There are islands here and there, 
 near the land, but they are not large. The end of Long 
 Island, which is one hundred and forty-four miles long, 
 runs off low and sandy. Continuing east you pass Plum 
 island, which is about four miles in length. Behind the 
 bay of Long Island called the Gramme Gouwe (Crooked 
 bay) 1 there are several small islands, Gardiner's island, 
 and others. At the east point of Plum island, there is a 
 reef, or some small rocks, but keeping on to the eastward, 
 you sail far enough from them. From Plum island to 
 
 1 Pecouic bay is meant. 
 
376 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 Adriacn Blocz island, the course is east a distance of twenty 
 or twenty-two miles. This island is eight miles long. 
 Thence to Maertens Wingaert the distance is fifty-two to 
 fifty-six miles further east, and Bloekx island is hardly out 
 of sight when you see Maertens Wingaert. Between Plum 
 island and Bloekx island, you leave Fisher's island to the 
 north, nearest Plum island ; and between Bloekx island 
 and Maertens Wingaert you leave on the coast Rhode Island, 
 which does not lie within the coast, as the chart indicates, 
 but outside, and lies nearest Maertens Wingaert. "With 
 Maertens Wingaert begins the Elizabeth islands, which 
 consist of six or seven islands lying in a row, close to each 
 other, towards the coast. The width between Maertens 
 Wingaert and the Elizabeth islands is eight miles. There 
 is a fine sound or strait for sailing between them, although 
 Maertens Wingaert is somewhat longer. This island is 
 about twenty-eight miles in length towards the east. A 
 little within the east point of it a reef of rocks stretches 
 out three miles from the shore, so that it is best to keep 
 nearest the Elizabeth islands, although there is room 
 enough between Maertens Wingaert and the reef to sail 
 through with large ships, as there is three and two and a 
 half fathoms of water at low tide. At the westerly point 
 of the Elizabeth islands there are several rocks, one large 
 and several small ones, called after their fashion, the Sov) 
 and Pigs. There is a beautiful bay, and anchorage ground 
 [Holmes's hole] on the east end of Maertens Wingaert. 
 From this point of Maertens Wingaert the course is east 
 southeast about twenty miles, to Nantoeket upon the west 
 point of which there is a good bay with anchorage ground. 
 The land is low and sandy ; it is fourteen or sixteen miles 
 long. There are several shoals outside in the sea, and also 
 inside between the island and the main land, but they do 
 not run out beyond the east point. When you have the 
 east point to the west southwest of you, steer straight north 
 
GOVERNOR BRAD STREET. 
 
 377 
 
 to Cape Cod, about twenty-eight miles ; but you must 
 here time the tides, which run strong east and west ; the 
 flood to the west, and the ebb to the east. The flood tide 
 pulls to the shoals, and the ebb tide on the contrary sets 
 eastwardly to the sea. Cape Cod is a clean coast, where 
 there are no islands, rocks or banks, and, therefore, all 
 such laid down on the charts of the great reef of Malebarre 
 and otherwise is false. Indeed, within four, eight and 
 twelve miles, there is sixty to sixty-five fathoms of water. 
 This cape or coast is about twenty-eight miles long due 
 north; and from thence to Cape Ann it is also clue north, 
 but to Boston it is northwest. There are many small 
 islands before Boston well on to fifty, I believe, between 
 which you sail on to the city. A high one, or the highest, 
 is the first that you meet. It is twelve miles from the city, 
 and has a light-house upon it which you can see from a 
 great distance, for it is in other respects naked and bare. 
 In sailing by this island, you keep it on the west side ; on 
 the other side there is an island with many rocks upon and 
 around it, and when you pass by it you must be careful, 
 as a shoal pushes out from it, which you must sail round. 
 You have then an island in front, in the shape of a battery 
 which also you leave on the larboard, and then you come 
 in sight of the island upon which the fort stands, and 
 where the flag is flown when ships are entering. That, 
 too, lies to the larboard, and you pass close enough to it 
 for them to hail the ship, what you are, from whence you 
 came, and where you are bound, &c. When you are there 
 you see the city lying directly before you ; and so you sail 
 into the bay before the town, and cast anchor. There is a 
 high hill in the city, also with a light-house upon it, by 
 which you can hold your course in entering. 
 
 24(h, Monday. We walked with our captain into' the 
 town, for his house stood a little one side of it, and the 
 first house he took us to was a tavern. From there, he 
 48 
 
378 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 conducted us to the governor, who dwelt in only a common 
 house, and that not the most costly. 1 He is an old man, 
 quiet and grave. lie was dressed in black silk, hut not 
 sumptuously. Paddechal explained the reasons of our 
 visit. The governor inquired who we were, and where 
 from, and where we going. Paddechal told him we were 
 Hollanders, and had come on with him from New York, 
 in order to depart from here, for England. He asked 
 further our names, which we wrote down for him. He 
 then presented us a small cup of wine, and with that we 
 finished. We went then to the house of one John Taylor, 
 to whom "William Van Cleif had recommended us; hut 
 we did not find him. We wanted to obtain a place where 
 we could he at home, and especially to ascertain if there 
 were no Dutchmen. They told us of a silversmith, who 
 was a Dutchman, and at whose house the Dutch usually 
 went to lodge. We went in search of him, but he was 
 not at home. At noon we found Mr. Taylor, who ap- 
 peared to be a good sort of a person. He spoke tolerably 
 good French, and informed us there was a ship up for 
 England immediately, and another in about three weeks. 
 The first was too soon for us, and we therefore, thought it 
 best to wait for the other. We also found the silversmith, 
 who bade us welcome, nis name was William Ross, 
 from Wesel. He had married an Englishwoman, and 
 carried on his business here. He told us we might come 
 and lodge with him, if we wished, which we determined 
 to do ; for to lie again in our last night's nest was not 
 agreeable to us. We exchanged some of our money, 
 and obtained six shillings and six-pence each for our 
 ducatoons, and ten shillings each for the ducats. We 
 
 iSLnon Bradstreet was then the governor of the colony of Massa- 
 chusetts, having at the age of seventy-seven been elected the preceding 
 year to succeed governor Leverett. He died in 1G97, at the age of 94. 
 He -was the husband of Anne Bradstreet, the poetess. 
 
FASTING AND PRAYER. 
 
 379 
 
 went accordingly to lodge at the goldsmith's, whom 
 my comrade knew well, though he did not recollect my 
 comrade. We were better off at his house, for although 
 his wife was an Englishwoman, she was quite a good 
 housekeeper. 
 
 25 th, Tuesday. We went in search of Mr. Paddechal 
 this morning and paid him for our passage here, twenty 
 shillings ~New England currency, for each of us. We 
 wanted to obtain our goods, but they were all too busy 
 then, and promised they would send them to us in the city 
 the next day. "We inquired after Mr. John Pigeon, to 
 whom Mr. Robert Sanders, of Albany, promised to send 
 Wouter, the Indian, with a letter, but he had received 
 neither the letter nor the Indian ; so that we must offer up 
 our poor Indian to the pleasure of the Lord. We also 
 went to look after the ship, in which we were going to 
 leave for London. We understood tbe name of the captain 
 was John Foy. The ship was called the Dolphin, and 
 mounted sixteen guns. Several passengers were engaged. 
 There was a surgeon in the service of the ship from Rotter- 
 clam, named Johan Ovins, who had been to Surinam and 
 afterwards to the island of Fayal, from whence he had 
 come here, and now wished to go home. There was also 
 a sailor on board the ship who spoke Dutch, or was a 
 Dutchman. The carpenter was a Norman who lived at 
 Flushing. 
 
 26^?, Wednesday. We strove hard to get our goods home, 
 for we were fearful, inasmuch as our trunk was on deck, 
 and it had rained, and a sea now and then had washed 
 over it, that it might be wet and ruined ; but we did not 
 succeed, and Paddechal in this, exhibited again his incon- 
 siderateness and little regard for his promise. We re- 
 solved to take it out the next day, go as it would. 
 
 21th, Thursday. We went to the Exchange in order to 
 find Mr. Taylor, and also the skipper, which we did. We 
 
380 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 agreed for our passage at the usual price of six pounds 
 sterling for each person, with the choice of paying here or 
 in England ; hut as we would hav^ less loss on our money 
 here, we determined to pay here. After 'change was 
 over there was preaching, to which we had intended to go ; 
 hut as we had got our goods home, after much trouhle, and 
 found several articles wet and liahle to be spoiled, we had 
 to stay and dry them. 
 
 28/A, Friday. One of the best ministers in the place being 
 very sick, a day of fasting and prayer was observed in a 
 church near by our house. We went into the church 
 where, in the first place, a minister made a prayer in the 
 pulpit, of full two hours in length ; after which an old 
 minister delivered a sermon an hour long, and after that a 
 prayer was made, and some verses sung out of the psalms. 
 In the afternoon, three or four hours were consumed with 
 nothing except prayers, three ministers relieving each 
 other alternately ; when one was tired, another went up 
 into the pulpit. There was no more devotion than in 
 other churches, and even less than at New York; no re- 
 spect, no reverence ; in a word, nothing but the name of 
 independents; and that was all. 
 
 29/A, Saturday. To day a captain arrived from New York, 
 named Lucas, who had sailed from there last Friday. He said 
 no ships had arrived there from Europe, and that matters 
 remained as we left them. There was a report that 
 another governor was coming to New York, and it was 
 said he was a man, who was much liked in Boston; 
 that many complaints had been made against the other 
 one, such as oppressing the people, imposing high duties 
 when his instructions provided they should not be more 
 than two per cent, I believe; rendering a false account, 
 in which he had charged a dock as having been made 
 at a cost of twenty-eight pounds sterling which had not 
 cost a cent, as the citizens had constructed it themselves, 
 
REV. JOHN ELIOT. THE INDIAN BIBLE. 381 
 
 &C 1 This will, perhaps, cause some change in these parts 
 and relieve the people. Lucas brought with him the 
 sister and brother-in-law of Ephraim's wife, recently mar- 
 ried, but we had never spoken to them. 
 
 30th, Sunday. We went to church, but there was only 
 one minister in the pulpit, who made a prayer an hour 
 long, and preached the same length of time, when some 
 verses were sung. We expected something particular in 
 the afternoon, but there was nothing more than usual. 
 
 July 1st, Monday. We wrote to de la Grange, at New 
 York, concerning our letters from Europe, and also to 
 Robert Sanders, at Albany, in relation to Wouter. 
 
 2d, Tuesday. We had a conversation with the captain at 
 the Exchange. He intended to sail round Ireland, which 
 suited us very well, for although it was said the Hollanders 
 were at peace with the Turks, there were many English 
 vessels taken by them daily, and under such circumstances 
 we ran some danger of being plundered, fighting with 
 them, and perhaps being carried into Barbary. It was, 
 therefore, better to go around, although it would be late. 
 We went on board the ship, with the captain, in order to 
 look through her. She pleased us very much, as she was 
 larger than the Charles, in which we came over. We 
 bespoke a berth in the gunner's room, on the starboard 
 side. The ship was said to be a good sailer, and the 
 captain to be one of the most discreet navigators of this 
 country. All that was agreeable to us. In the even- 
 ing Ephraim's wife's sister and her husband called upon 
 us, but they were not much in a state to be spoken to, in 
 regard to what was most necessary for them, nor was 
 there much opportunity. 
 
 1 These charges against Andros were subsequently to this time officially 
 inquired into. See Lewin's report and Andres's answer in iV. T. Col. Hist, 
 III, 302, 308. 
 
382 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 M, Wednesday. Our captain said he would leave a week 
 from to-day. Nothing further occurred. 
 4th, Thursday, Nothing transpired. 
 
 5th, Wtday. In the afternoon Thomas De Key and his 
 wife, half .sister of Elizabeth Roodenherg, came to visit us, 
 hut we conversed little about religious matters, following 
 the providence of the Lord. 
 
 6th, Saturday. Nothing occurred. 
 
 1th, Sunday. We heard preaching in three churches, by 
 persons who seemed to possess zeal, but no just knowledge 
 of Christianity. The auditors were very worldly and inat- 
 tentive. The best of the ministers whom we have yet 
 heard, is a very old man, named John Eliot, who has 
 charge of the instruction of the Indians in the Christian 
 religion. He has translated the Bible into their lan^ua^e. 
 We had already made inclines of the booksellers for a 
 copy of it, but it was not to be obtained in Boston. They 
 told us if one was to be had, it would be from Mr. Eliot. 
 "We determined to go on Monday to the village. where he 
 resided, and was the minister, called Roxbury. Our land- 
 lord had promised to take us, but was not able to do so, in 
 consequence of his having too much business. "We, there- 
 fore, thought we would go alone and do what we wanted. 
 
 8th, Monday. We went accordingly, about eight o'clock 
 in the morning, to Roxbury, which is three-quarters of an 
 holir from the city, in order that we might get home early, 
 inasmuch as our captain had informed us, he would come 
 in the afternoon for our money, and in order that Mr. 
 Eliot might not be gone from home. On arriving at his 
 house, he was not there, and we, therefore, went to look 
 around the village, and the vicinity. We found it justly 
 called Rocksbury, for it was very rocky, and had hills en- 
 tirely of rocks. Returning to his house we spoke to him, 
 and he received us politely. Although he could speak 
 neither Dutch nor French, and we spoke but little English, 
 
STATE OF EELIGION. CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 383 
 
 find were unable to express ourselves in it always, we 
 managed, by means of Latin and English, to understand 
 each other. He was seventy-seven years old, and had 
 been forty-eight years in these parts. He had learned 
 very well the language of the Indians, who lived about 
 there. "We asked him for an Indian Bible. He said in 
 the late Indian war, all the Bibles and Testaments were 
 carried away, and burnt or destroyed, so that he had not 
 been able to save any for himself; but a new edition was 
 in press, which he hoped would be much better than the 
 first one, though that was not to be despised. We inquired 
 whether any part of the old or new edition could be ob- 
 tained by purchase, and whether there was any grammar 
 of that language in English. Thereupon he went and 
 brought us the Old Testament, and also the New Testament, 
 made up with some sheets of the new edition, so that we 
 had the Old and New Testaments complete. He also 
 brought us two or three small specimens of the grammar. 
 We asked him what we should pay him for them ; but he 
 desired nothing. We presented him our Declaration in 
 Latin, 1 and informed him about the persons and condi- 
 tions of the church, whose declaration it was, and about 
 Madam Schurman and others, with which he was de- 
 lighted, and could not restrain himself from praising God, 
 the Lord, that had raised up men, and reformers, and be- 
 gun the reformation in Holland. He deplored the decline 
 of the church in New England, and especially in Boston, 
 so that he did not know what would be the final result. 
 We inquired how it stood with the' Indians, -and whether 
 any good fruit had followed his work. Yes, much, he 
 
 1 The justification of his separation from the Walloon church by de 
 Labadie, was published in French, in a small tract which was subsequently 
 enlarged and printed in Dutch, German and Latin, and in the latter lan- 
 guage, under the title of, Veritas sui vindex, sen solennis fidei decluralio. 
 Joh. de Labadie, Petri Yton et Petri du Lignon, pastorum, dec., Hervor, 
 1672 ; and afterwards, further enlarged, at Altona. 
 
384 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 said, if we meant true conversion of the heart ; for they 
 had in various countries, instances of conversion, as they 
 called it, and had seen it amounted to nothing at all ; that 
 they must not endeavor, like scribes and pharisees, to 
 make Jewish proselytes, but true Christians. lie could 
 thank God, he continued, and God be praised for it, there 
 were Indians, whom he knew, who were truly converted 
 of heart to God, and whose profession was sincere. It 
 seemed as if he were disposed to know us further, and we, 
 therefore, said to him, if he had any desire to write to our 
 people, he could use the names which stood on the title page 
 of the Declaration, and that we hoped to come and converse 
 with him again. He accompanied us as far as the juris- 
 diction of Roxbury extended, where we parted from him. 
 
 9th, Tuesday. We started out to go to Cambridge, lying 
 to the northeast of Boston, in order to see their college, 
 and printing office. We left about six o'clock in the 
 morning, and were set across the river at Charlestown. 
 We followed a road which we supposed was the right one, 
 but went full half an hour out of the way, and would have 
 gone still further, had not a negro who met us, and of 
 whom we inquired, disabused us of our mistake. We 
 went back to the right road, which is a very pleasant one. 
 We reached Cambridge, about eight o'clock. It is not a 
 large village, and the houses stand very much apart. ' The 
 college building is the most conspicuous among them. 
 We went to it, expecting to see something curious, as it is 
 the only college, or would-be academy of the Protestants 
 in all America, but we found ourselves mistaken. In ap- 
 proaching the house, we neither heard nor saw any thing 
 mentionable; but, going to the other side of the building, 
 we heard noise enough in an upper room, to lead my 
 comrade to suppose they were engaged in disputation. 
 We entered, and went up stairs, when a person met us, 
 and requested us to walk in, which we did. We found 
 
HARVARD COLLEGE. PRINTING OFFICE. 385 
 
 there, eight or ten young fellows, sitting around, smoking 
 tobacco, with the smoke of which the room was so full, 
 that you could hardly see ; and the whole house smelt so 
 ^trong of it, that when I was going up stairs, I said, this is 
 certainly a tavern. We excused ourselves, that we could 
 speak English only a little, but understood Dutch or 
 French, which they did not. However, we spoke as 
 well as we could. "We inquired how many professors 
 there were, and they replied not one, that there was no 
 money to support one. We asked how many students 
 there were. They said at first, thirty, and then came down 
 to twenty ; I afterwards understood there are probably 
 not ten. They could hardly speak a word of Latin, so 
 that my comrade could not converse with them. They 
 took us to the library where there was nothing particular. 
 We looked over it a little. They presented us with a 
 glass of wine. This is all we ascertained there. The 
 minister of the place goes there morning and evening to 
 make prayer, and has charge over them. The students 
 have tutors or masters. 1 Our visit was soon over, and we 
 left them to go and look at the land about there. We 
 found the place beautifully situated on a large plain, more 
 than eight miles square, with a fine stream in the middle 
 of it, capable of bearing heavily laden vessels. As regards 
 the fertility of the soil, we consider the poorest in ~New 
 York, superior to the best here. As we were tired, we 
 took a mouthful to eat, and left. We passed by the 
 
 1 This was the true condition of Harvard college at that time. There 
 was no president. The Rev. Uriau Oakes was elected in 1675, but de- 
 clined then to accept the position. He was reelected in February, 1679, 
 but was not installed until August, 1G80. He was the minister of Cam- 
 bridge, and acted as superintendent of the college before he became presi- 
 dent. The number of graduates in 1680 was five, and did not average 
 that number for the ten preceding years. — Quincy's History of Harvard 
 University, I, 472. 
 
 49 
 
380 
 
 HOSTO.N, AM) Till; VOYAGE HOME 
 
 printing office, but there was nobody in it; the paper sash 
 however being broken, we looked in ; and saw two presses 
 with six or eight cases of type. There is not much work 
 done there. Our printing office is well worth two of it, 
 and even more. We went back to Charlestown, where, 
 after waiting a little, we crossed over about three o'clock. 
 We found our skipper, John Foy, at the house, and gave 
 him our names, and the money for our passage, six pounds 
 each. He wished to give us a bill of it, but we told him it 
 was unnecessary, as we were people of good confidence. I 
 spoke to my comrade, and we went out with him, and 
 presented him with a glass of wine. His mate came to 
 him there, who looked more like a merchant than a sea- 
 man, a young man and no sailor. We inquired how long 
 our departure would be delayed, and, as we understood 
 him, it would be the last of the coming Week. That was 
 annoying to us. Indeed, we have found the English the 
 same everywhere, doing nothing but lying and cheating, 
 when it serves their interest. Going in the house again, 
 Ephraiin's brother-in-law, Sir. De Key, and his wife made 
 us a visit. 
 
 107/i, Wednesday. We heard that our captain expected to 
 be ready the first of the week. 
 
 Wth, Thursday. Nothing occurred. 
 
 12/ h, Friday. AVe went in the afternoon to Mr. John 
 Taylor's, to ascertain whether he had any good wine, and 
 to purchase some for our voyage, and also some brandy. 
 On arriving at his house, we found him a little cool ; in- 
 deed, not as he was formerly. We inquired for what we 
 wanted, and he said he had good Madeira wine, but he 
 believed he had no brandy, though he thought he could 
 assist us in procuring it, AY"e also inquired how we could 
 obtain the history and laws of this place. At last it came 
 out. He said we must be pleased to excuse him if. he did 
 not give us admission to his house ; he durst not do it, in 
 
THE TRAVELERS SUSPECTED. 
 
 387 
 
 consequence of there being a certain evil report in the city 
 concerning us ; they had been to warn him not to have 
 too much communication with us, if he wished to avoid 
 censure; they said we certainly were Jesuits, who had 
 come here for no good, for we were quiet and modest, and 
 an entirely different sort of people from themselves ; that 
 .we could speak several languages, were cunning and 
 subtle of mind and judgment, had come there without 
 carrying on any traffic or any other business, except only 
 to see the place and country ; that this seemed fabulous as 
 it was unusual in these parts; certainly it could be for 
 no good purpose. As regards the voyage to Europe, we 
 could have made it as well from New York as from 
 Boston, as opportunities were offered there. This suspi- 
 ■ cion seemed to have gained more strength because the fire 
 at Boston over a year ago was caused by a Frenchman. 
 Although he had been arrested, they could not prove it 
 against him; but in the course of the investigation, they 
 discovered he had been counterfeiting coin and had 
 profited thereby, which was a crime as infamous as the 
 other. He had no trade or profession ; he was condemned; 
 both of his ears were cut off; and he was ordered to leave 
 the country. 1 Mr. Taylor feared the more for himself, 
 particularly because most all strangers were addressed to 
 him, as we were, in consequence of his speaking several 
 languages, French, some Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, 
 
 1 On the 8th of August, 1G79, a great fire occurred in Boston, in which, 
 says Hutchinson, " eighty odd dwelling houses, and seventy odd ware- 
 houses with several vessels, and their lading were consumed to ashes. 
 The whole loss was computed to he two hundred thousand pounds." — 
 History of Massachusetts, I, 349. Mr. Drake adds, that by a manuscript 
 record, it appears that at the court of assistants, held on the 2d September 
 following, one Peter Lorphelin, a Frenchman, accused of uttering 
 rash and insulting speeches in the time of the late conflagration, thereby 
 rendering himself justly suspicions of having a hand therein, was seized 
 and committed to the jails in Boston. His chest and writings were ex- 
 
388 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAOK HOME. 
 
 Italian, &c, and could aid them. There had also, some 
 time ago, a Jesuit arrived here from Canada, who came to 
 him disguised, in relation to which there was much mur- 
 muring, and they wished to punish this Jesuit, not because 
 he was a Jesuit, hut because he came in disguise, which is 
 generally bad and especially for such as are the pests of the 
 world, and are justly feared, which just hate we very un- 
 justly, but as the ordinary lot of God's children, had to 
 share. "We were compelled to speak French, because we 
 could not speak English, and these people did not under- 
 stand Dutch. There were some persons in New York, 
 who could speak nothing but French, and very little 
 English. The French was common enough in these parts, 
 but it seemed that we were different from them. Of all 
 this, we disabused Mr. Taylor, assuring him we were as 
 great enemies of that brood, as any persons could be, and 
 were, on the contrary, good protestants or reformed, born 
 and educated in that faith; that we spoke only Dutch and 
 French, except my companion, who could also speak 
 Latin, and had not come here to trade, but to examine 
 the country, and perhaps some morning or evening the 
 opportunity might arrive for us to come over with our 
 families, when affairs in Europe, and especially in Holland, 
 might be settled, as the times there had been bad enough; 
 that if they would be pleased to listen to Mr. Eliot, the 
 minister at Roxbury, he could give them other testimony 
 
 amined. In his chest were found two or three crucibles, a melting pan, a 
 strong pair of shears to clip money, and several clippings of the Massa- 
 chusetts currency, and some other instruments. He denied ever having 
 made any use of these things, but said they were given him by a privateer! 
 But on being remanded to jail, he made up another story by wbich he 
 hoped to clear himself. All, however, to no purpose. He was sen- 
 tenced to stand two hours in the pillory, have both ears cut off, give 
 bonds of £500 with two sureties, pay charges of prosecution, fees of court, 
 and stand committed till the sentence be performed.— History of Boston, 
 437, note. 
 
ELIOT AND HIS SON. SHAM BATTLE. 389 
 
 concerning us, as we had particularly conversed with him. 
 This seemed in some measure to satisfy him. I think this 
 bad report was caused by some persons who came from 
 New York, truly worldly men, whom we had not sought 
 when we were thei'e, nor they us, and who, although they 
 knew better, or at least ought to have known better, yet 
 out of hatred to the truth, and love of sin, said of us what 
 they conceived, and their corruption inclined them to say. 
 But the Lord who alone knows us rightly will forgive 
 them, and make himself known to them if it pleases him, 
 and then they will know us. 
 
 Saturday. As we had promised Mr. Eliot, to call 
 upon him again, we went to Roxbury this morning. We 
 found him at home, but he excused himself that he had 
 not much time, and had a great deal to do. He called his 
 son, who was there, and who also appeared to be a minis- 
 ter, to speak with us ; but we excused ourselves, and said 
 we would not hinder him and would rather leave. How- 
 ever, several questions and reasons passed between us in 
 relation to the Confession which we had given him, and 
 which he praised highly, and in relation to the professors 
 of it, both pastors and people, in regard to which we satis- 
 fied him ; but the son who was neither as good nor as 
 learned as his father, had more disposition or inclination 
 to ridicule and dispute, than to edify and be edified. We 
 told him what was good for him, and we regretted we 
 could not talk more particularly to him. But the father 
 remarked that if the professors were truly what they de- 
 clared in the Confession, he could not sufficiently thank 
 God for what he had done. We assured him it was so, 
 and took our leave. He requested us to stop and dine 
 with him, but we excused ourselves. 
 
 14ih, Sunday. We went to church, but heard a most 
 miserable sermon by a young person, a candidate. 
 
 15 th, Monday. The burgesses drilled and exercised in 
 
890 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE BOMB, 
 
 the presence of the governor. There were eight compa- 
 nies on foot, and one on horseback, all which divided them- 
 selves into two troops or squadrons, and operated against 
 each other in a sham battle, which was well performed. 
 It took place on a large plain on the side of the city. It 
 did not, however, terminate so well, but that a commander 
 on horseback was wounded on the side of his face near the 
 eve > the shot of a fusil, as it is usually the case that some 
 accident happens on such occasions. It was so in New 
 York at the last parade, when two young men on horse- 
 back coming towards each other as hard as they could, to 
 discharge their pistols, dashed against each other, and fell 
 instantly with their horses. It was supposed they were 
 both killed, and also their horses, for there were no signs 
 of life in them ; but they were bled immediately, and 
 after two or three hours they began to recover, and in 
 two days were able to go out again. One of the horses 
 died. We went to see John Taylor, and paid him for the 
 wine and brandy. He seemed to have more confidence in 
 us. "We gave him to read as further proofs, the letters 
 which Mr. Ephraim Hermans and Mr. John Moll had 
 written to us from the South river, both of whom he 
 knew. He told us the reformed of Rochelle had sent 
 some deputies to the colony of Boston and the inde- 
 pendent church there to request the liberty to come over 
 and live in a place near them, or among them, and in 
 their country, which was granted them; and that they 
 returned home three months ago. 1 
 
 16th, Tuesday. We packed our goods in readiness to 
 leave. 
 
 1 We find no allusion to this deputation of the Huguenots of Rochelle, 
 in any of the writers or annalists of New England. In regard to the 
 settlement by the French protestants five or six years later at Oxford, in 
 Massachusetts, see Dr. Holmes's Memoir in Collections of the Massachusetts 
 Historical Society, 3d Series, II, 1-83. 
 
A THUNDER STORM. PUT TO SEA. 
 
 391 
 
 17th, Wednesday. We placed our goods on board ship. 
 
 18th, Thursday. We took leave of Mr. Taylor, thanking 
 him for his attention and kindness, and presented him 
 with a copy of our Cantiques Sacrees, for which he was 
 thankful. We would cheerfully have given him the 
 Maxhnes 1 also, hut our goods were packed on board the 
 ship, and we could not get at them. He was now of a 
 better mind and well satisfied, returning us our letters 
 with thanks. While we were sitting at table this noon, it 
 thundered very hard, whereupon one of the daughters of 
 the woman of the house where we were staying, com- 
 menced to scream and cry. We asked her if she were 
 afraid of the thunder, upon which her mother inquired of 
 us, if we were not. Wt said no, but the word had scarcely 
 escaped our lips before there came a frightful clap, which 
 seemed to cleave the heart from the body, and entirely 
 changed our ideas. My comrade, Mr. Vorsman, turned 
 as pale as a white sheet, and could hardly speak. I was 
 fearful he had met with some mishap, but he recovered 
 himself. It was said there had scarcely ever been heard 
 there such thunder. One man was killed, and two others 
 not far from being so. These three persons were running 
 in a field, and two of them seeing and hearing the weather 
 lay down flat on the ground under a tree ; the third man 
 played stout and brave, jeering at the others who called to 
 him to come with them. Soon the lio-htuinc; struck him 
 dead to the earth, and separated the other two from each 
 other. There was also a hard rock, not far from our lodg- 
 ings, split through. 
 
 19th, Friday and 20th, Saturday. Nothing occurred. 
 
 21st, Sunday. Coming out of the church, Mr. Taylor 
 
 1 This work was, an " Abrege du Heritable Chrutianisnie on reeandl des 
 Maxintes Chretiennes. Par Jean de Labadie." A second edition in French 
 was published at Amsterdam, in 1685. 
 
 a 
 
392 
 
 BOSTON, AM) Till: VOYAGE IIOMK. 
 
 spoke to us, and invited us to dine with him, hut we 
 thanked him. 
 
 22^/, Monday. We took our leave, and went on boon! 
 the ship, which was all ready to sail, exeept they were 
 waiting for the captain. 
 
 23</, Thursday. After some delay the eaptain came on 
 hoard with the rest of the passengers, accompanied hy 
 many of their friends. Weighed anchor at three o'clock 
 in the afternoon it heing most low water, and set sail with 
 a southwest and south southwest wind. In passing the 
 fort we fired the salvo, which it answered ; the pilot and 
 the company then left us and we put to sea. But hefore 
 going farther to sea we must give a brief description of 
 New England, and the city of Boston in particular. 
 
 When New Netherland was first discovered hy the 
 Hollanders, the evidence is that New England was not 
 known ; hecause the Butch East India Company then 
 sought a passage by the west, through which to sail to 
 Japan and China; and if New England had been then 
 discovered, they would not have sought a passage there, 
 knowing it to be the main land; just as when New 
 Netherland and New England did become known, such a 
 passage was sought no longer through them, but further 
 to the north through Bavis and Hudson straits. The 
 Hollanders when they discovered New Netherland, em- 
 braced under that name and title, all the coast from 
 Virginia or Cape Hinloopen, eastwardly to Cape Cod, as 
 it was then and there discovered by them and designated 
 by Butch names, as sufficiently appears by the charts. 
 The English afterwards discovered New England and 
 settled there. They increased so in consequence of the 
 great liberties and favorable privileges which the king 
 granted to the Independents, that they went to live not 
 only west of Cape Cod and Rhode Island, but also on 
 Long Island and other places, and even took possession of 
 
THE INDEPENDENTS OF NEW ENGLAND. 393 
 
 the whole of the Fresh river [the Connecticut], which the 
 Hollanders there were not able to prevent, in consequence 
 of their small force in New Netherland, and the scanty 
 population. The English went more readily to the west, 
 because the land was much better there, and more accessi- 
 ble to vessels, and the climate was milder; and also 
 because they could trade more conveniently with the 
 Hollanders, and be supplied by them with provisions. 
 New -England is now described as extending from the 
 Fresh river to Cape Cod and thence to Kennebec, com- 
 prising three provinces or colonies, Fresh river or Con- 
 necticut; Rhode Island and the other islands to Cape Cod; 
 and Boston, which stretches from thence north. They 
 are subject to no one, but acknowledge the king of 
 England for their honor (eer 1 ), and therefore no ships enter 
 ■ unless they have English passports or commissions. They 
 have free trade with all countries ; but the return cargoes 
 from there to Europe, go to England, except those which 
 go under the thumb [secretly] to Holland. There is no toll 
 or duty paid upon merchandise exported or imported, nor 
 is there any import or excise paid upon land. Each 
 province chooses its own governor from the magistracy, 
 and the magistrates are chosen from the principal inhabit- 
 ants, merchants or planters. They are all Independents in 
 matters of religion, if it can be called religion ; many of 
 them perhaps more for the purposes of enjoying the benefit 
 of its privileges than for any regard to truth and godliness. 
 I observed that while the English flag or color has a red 
 ground with a small white field in the uppermost corner 
 where there is a red cross, they have here dispensed with 
 this cross in their colors, and preserved the rest. They 
 baptize no children except those of the members of the 
 congregation. All their religion consists in observing 
 
 So in the original. Probably heer is intended, that is, lord. 
 50 • 
 
394 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE IIOME. 
 
 Sunday, by not working or going into the taverns on that 
 day; but the houses are worse than the taverns. No 
 stranger or traveler can therefore be entertained on a 
 Sunday, wmch begins at sunset on Saturday, and continues 
 until the same time on Sunday. At these two hours you 
 see all their countenances change. Saturday evening the 
 constable goes round into all the taverns of the city for 
 the purpose of stopping all noise and debauchery, which 
 frequently causes him to stop his search, before his search 
 causes the debauchery to stop. There is a penalty for 
 cursing and swearing, such as they please to impose, the 
 witnesses thereof being at liberty to insist upon it. Never- 
 theless, you discover little difference between this and 
 other places. Drinking and fighting occur there not less 
 than elsewhere; and as to truth and true godliness, you 
 must not expect more of them than of others. When we . 
 were there, four ministers' sons were learning the silver- 
 smith's trade. 
 
 The soil is not as fertile as in the west. Many persons 
 leave there to go to the Delaware and New Jersey. They 
 manure their lands with heads of fish. They gain their 
 living mostly, or very much by fish, which they salt and 
 dry for selling; and by raising horses, oxen and cows, as 
 well as hogs and sheep, which they sell alive, or slaugh- 
 tered and salted, in the Caribbean islands and other places. 
 They are not as good farmers as the Hollanders about 
 New York. 
 
 As to Boston particularly, it lies in latitude 42° 20' on 
 a very fine bay. The city is quite large, constituting about 
 twelve companies. It has three churches, or meeting 
 houses, as they call them. All the houses are made of 
 thin, small cedar shingles, nailed against frames, and then 
 filled in with brick and other stuff; and so are their churches. 
 For this reason these towns are so liable to fires, as have 
 already happened several times ; and the wonder to me is, 
 
BOSTON HARBOR. THE PASSENGERS. $95 
 
 that the whole city has not been burnt down, so light and 
 dry are the materials. There is a large dock in front of 
 it constructed of wooden piers, where the large ships go to 
 be careened and rigged ; the smaller vessels all come up 
 to the city. On the left hand side across the river, lies 
 Charlestown, a considerable place, where there is some 
 shipping. Upon the point of the bay, on the left hand, 
 there is a block-house, along which a piece of water runs, 
 called the Milk ditch. The whole place has been an island, 
 but it is now joined to the main land by a low road to 
 Eoxbury. In front of the town there are many small 
 islands, between which you pass in sailing in and out. On 
 one of the middlemost stands the fort where the ships 
 show their passports. , At low tide the water in the 
 channel between the islands is three and a half and four 
 fathoms deep, in its shallowest part. You sail from the 
 city southeasterly to the fort, bypassing Governor's island 
 on the larboard, and having passed the fort, you keep close 
 to the south, then southeast, and gradually more to the east 
 to the sea. On reaching the sea we set our course due 
 east, with the wind south southeast, and made good pro- 
 gress. 
 
 24th, Wednesday. The wind and our course continued 
 the same ; but it is to be observed, the compass here is a 
 point and a half northwesting. We spoke an English ship 
 bound to Virginia. We found our latitude 40' north, and 
 the distance we had sailed 96 miles. 
 
 25th, Thursday. The wind became more southerly, but 
 we held our course the same as before, or east by south. 
 Latitude 42° 68'. Distance reckoned to be 136 miles. 
 The English ship which had remained in company until 
 now, left us. It began to blow so hard in the evening, 
 that we had to reef the topsails and take in the mainsail, 
 and proceed with the mizzensail and foresail. 
 
 26th, Friday. The wind was due south, although it had 
 
:>,<M BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 been a little more westerly during the night. We observed 
 the latitude 42° 51' ; reckoned the distance run 96 miles. 
 
 We had stipulated when we engaged our passage, to eat 
 in the cabin, but when we got to sea, we did not do so. 
 There were ten passengers besides us two, and among 
 them two females. These ten had jointly bought a large 
 quantity of provisions and groceries, and placed them in 
 the cabin, they having such power over the captain. We 
 were therefore compelled to remain outside, although we 
 remonstrated. We saw afterwards that it was the Lord's 
 doings, who would not that we should be in nearer com- 
 munion with such wicked persons. We then arranged to 
 eat with the mate and another passenger above on the half 
 deck. We four brought together what provisions we had, 
 and were well satisfied with each other. We had to-day 
 a good topsail breeze and fine weather. 
 
 27/A, Saturday. It was rainy during the night; and 
 although our bunk was in the gunner's room, it leaked in 
 there very much. At sunrise it cleared up a little. We 
 could not obtain any observation, but supposed the latitude 
 w r as 43°. The course was east southeast, the distance 
 run 100 miles. As it was Saturday evening a hog was 
 killed, there being seven or eight on board the ship. 
 
 28th, Sunday. The weather was fine, with a westerly 
 wind, but not an entirely clear atmosphere. 
 
 Among the passengers in the cabin was a minister, an 
 Independent, who had formerly been in the East Indies, at 
 Bantam on the island of Java. He had been visiting his 
 friends in Xew England, but undoubtedly could not obtain 
 any situation among them, and was returning to England 
 in order to sail if he could in the first ships back to the 
 Indies. This poor minister, every morning and evening, 
 made a prayer, read some chapters out of the Old and Xew 
 Testaments, and sang a psalm, all after the manner of the 
 Independents. On Sundays he preached both in the morn- 
 
FINE FISHING ON THE BANKS. 
 
 397 
 
 ingancl afternoon, and we attended in order to avoid scandal 
 and dissipate as much as possible the breath of calumny. 
 
 "We could not obtain any altitude to-day, in consequence 
 of the haze. Our course had been almost the whole night 
 southeast by east and the course was therefore east by south ; 
 the distance was upwards of eighty miles. At noon it be- 
 came calm, afterwards rainy, and in the evening the wind 
 changed to the northwest, but continued still. 
 
 29lh, Monday. We found the height of the pole at noon 
 to-day 43° 29', as to which another person and myself, who 
 took the height, differed twenty minutes, and others ten. 
 The distance run was forty miles ; the course was about 
 east. At noon a strong breeze sprung out of the northwest 
 and we therefore went ahead again on a course east north- 
 east. Gave a ham from our stores to be cooked. 
 
 SOih, Tuesday. The wind northwest and our course east 
 southeast. We had run only about eighty miles. Lati- 
 tude 43° 43'. How unskillfully the steering was managed 
 I cannot say. We supposed we had now passed the island 
 of Sable, and held our course for the banks of Newfound- 
 land. It was quite calm in the evening. We were daily 
 amused at the swimming and tumbling of potshead whales, 
 and the swiftness of the tunnies which are much more 
 numerous here than about Europe ; but we observed no 
 other fish. 
 
 • 31st, Wednesday. The wind east and east by south, but 
 
 light. Could not sail south southeast as we had done 
 during the night, and at eight o'clock in the morning, we 
 wore ship and were thus enabled to sail about northeast. 
 We took the altitude of the pole above the horizon, 
 and found it 43° 52'. Our whole progress was 32 miles to 
 the northeast. We could afterwards sail east northeast, 
 but made little progress. Towards evening it began to 
 blow a little from the southeast, which caused us to go 
 ahead more. 
 I 
 
398 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 August 1st, Thursday. The beginning of this month 
 brought fo mind that we were in this region a year ago. 
 We made good progress last night, east northeast. It was 
 misty and rainy for which reason we could not take an 
 observation. We reckoned we were in 45° 20' and had 
 sailed 96 miles, being about 100 miles northeast by north 
 from Cape Race. The water was very clear which in- 
 duced us to believe we were on a bank, not the great bank 
 of Newfoundland, but the bank they call Banc au vert. 
 After dinner the deep lead was thrown, as we had done for 
 two or three days previously without sounding bottom. 
 We now found thirty-eight fathoms of water and a bottom 
 of white sand and small pebbles. Every thing was pre- 
 pared in order to fish, most of the sails taken in, and the rest 
 muzzled. We had at first three hooks and towards the 
 last another, and in about three hours caught one hundred 
 and fifty large codfish, which the captain salted down for 
 the ship's provision. We had fresh fish for a day or two, 
 but the English do not understand how to cook or dress 
 fish. Catching such a large quantity of fish in such a short 
 time, was very exciting ; it seemed as if the entire bottom 
 of the sea were covered with them, but you did not see 
 them. Two hooks were constantly being pulled up while 
 the others were being let down. Our hearts could not other- 
 wise than ascend to God, admiring him as the source of 
 such abundance, in the bosom of the wide ocean as well as 
 upon the land, of creatures which he subjects as it were by 
 force, to unworthy and sinful men, who instead of being 
 drawn thereby to him to glorify him and sanctify them- 
 selves and these creatures, by their use, to God, are not 
 only not affected at his plenitude and goodness, but mis- 
 use such good creatures to the scorn and dishonor of their 
 Creator. I let my thoughts run as they come. I have 
 found this reason for there being so many more fish at 
 these places than at others. Although these banks are 
 
WHAT THE FISH FEED ON THERE. 
 
 399 
 
 from 200 to 250 miles distant from Cape Race, the nearest 
 land, there is, nevertheless, a great stream which can be 
 easily discerned by the eye and is also found by observa- 
 tions in sailing. This current, or stream, coming across 
 the entire sea, as we have shown, by the Caribbean islands, 
 stopping and turning in the Gulf of Mexico, running 
 thence through the channel of the Bahamas, along the 
 coast of Florida, Virginia, New Netherland, New England, 
 and Acadia to this latitude — this great stream, scouring 
 all along the coast, carries with it whatever is found there, 
 of food for fish, and also whatever is discharged into the sea, 
 out of the numerous rivers it passes by, and brings the 
 loose soil, pebbles, rubbish and food to these banks. 
 
 The reason why these are stopped here, and washed no 
 further is, because a counter current comes behind Iceland, 
 from Davis and Hudson straits, and from the great river 
 St. Lawrence or Canada, and meet upon the point of Cape 
 Race, and there make whirlpools with each other. In 
 consequence of these whirlpools and choppings, all the stuff 
 for the food of fish is collected together; and as this is 
 constantly brought there by the stream so also are the fish. 
 The codfish feed upon a species of crab or sea spider, and 
 a small fish which lives in the sand, that we call smelt, in 
 Zeeland, where many are taken from the sand on the 
 shores. The bank upon which we caught them is desig- 
 nated on the sea chart by the name of Banc au vert. 
 
 The wind changed in the evening and blew harder. 
 "We therefore left off fishing, and set the sails again. 
 The wind was easterly and we laid our course south, sail- 
 ing southeasterly, but with short sails. The wind in- 
 creased so that we had to take in the foresail, and lie by. 
 It seemed as if we were compelled to pay for the pleasure 
 of fishing and fish. 
 
 2d, Friday. It blew hard all night with a heavy beating 
 of the sea in front. At the head of our bunk in the gun- 
 
400 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 ner's room, was a bunk crosswise, before tbe stem of the 
 ship, and up almost against tbe deck. In this bunk there 
 was a small window, which the passenger who slept there 
 had forgotten to shut, and through which the water came 
 occasionally upon him in consequence of the rolling of the 
 sea. It came so strong at last that he became frightened, 
 gasping for breath and screaming as if he had fallen into 
 the sea. Indeed he not only thought he was in the sea, 
 but that he alone was sinking. He awakened us all up, 
 but we had to laugh at him. 
 
 We had drifted about eight miles north while we were 
 fishing, as the wind was easterly. When the day broke, 
 and after prayer, the mainsail was reefed so that it ex- 
 tended a little over the stem of the ship. Steering south- 
 •east with a course south by east or south southeast we 
 reckoned our progress in all twenty-eight miles. At 
 evening it was calmer. 
 
 3d, Saturday. Although it was more calm, we remained 
 under short sails, with a frightful jolting and pitching of 
 the ship, in consequence of fhe sea rolling in front of us, 
 loosening and making every thing crack. In the forenoon 
 the reefs were let out and topsail set, but we did not make 
 much headway. "We calculated we had made thirty-two 
 miles, and the latitude was 44° 35'. At three o'clock in 
 the afternoon we wore ship to the north, and laid our 
 course northeast, that is, with the variation, northeast by 
 north. The wind gradually veered to the south and in- 
 creased some, but the sea was not entirely quiet. 
 
 4th, Sunday. Wind southwest, and course same as be- 
 fore. We could not obtain an observation, but reckoned 
 the latitude 44° 6' and the distance sixty miles. It was 
 very foggy ; nevertheless, saw six or eight vessels fishing, 
 which we supposed were French, but we spoke none of 
 them. I had several times suspected that our small 
 stock of wine, which was lying behind our berth, had suf- 
 
STILL ON THE BANKS. 
 
 401 
 
 fered an attack, for I thought I could perceive it had, as 
 well as our bottle case of brandy; but to-day, after we 
 came from prayer, wishing to tap a little of it, we found it 
 had been touched, and a fourth part of it gone. "We were, 
 therefore, compelled to remove both wine and brandy from 
 there and place them in the hut. It seems, while we sat at 
 prayer, they went out in order to play this trick, and had 
 performed it several times. And, therefore, although it 
 was Sunday, we removed them in order that they might 
 be protected from such birds of prey. 
 
 5th, Monday. The course at one time was east by south, 
 and afterwards east. The distance was east sixty-six 
 miles. The wind west northwest and northwest. We 
 could take no observation, and we reckoned the latitude 
 45° 15'. We had thrown the lead early, and found thirty- 
 eight fathoms of water. The sails were taken in, and we 
 began to fish, but caught nothing. We drifted without 
 any wind, and made little or no progress. In the afternoon 
 we caught a fine codfish, whereupon the sails which had 
 been set, were taken in, in order to fish again, but it was in 
 vain. Several whales came to-day to amuse us by their 
 swimming and tumbling, as a recompense for our catching 
 no fish. 
 
 6th, Tuesday. Fourteen days at sea. We had made little 
 progress during the night, but with the day came a fresh 
 breeze from the south and southwest. We set all our sails 
 and made good headway. It being misty at noon, we 
 were prevented from taking an observation, but calcu- 
 lated the latitude 45°, 50', and the distance upwards of 
 forty miles. The course was east northeast, that is, north- 
 east by east. The captain supposed we were still on the 
 Banc au vert, and had not yet reached the great bank. 
 We threw the lead at evening, although the water was black, 
 but we run out more than 140 fathoms without finding 
 bottom. The reason that our captain was fearful, was be- 
 51 
 
402 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 cause on the land side of the great hank of Newfoundland 
 there are twenty large rocks about sixty miles from Cape 
 Race, lying southeast and northwest, which he last year 
 came very near to, and was in great danger. "We were 
 compelled this evening to eat in the cabin, where those 
 wretches laughed at our going upon deck, which we were 
 obliged to do in order not to give them any umbrage, and on 
 the other hand to take care lest we might be like them in 
 any thing. 
 
 7th, Wednesday. The wind and course as before ; atmo- 
 sphere misty, and we therefore could not obtain the altitude. 
 "We calculated we were in 47° 10', and that the distance 
 sailed was 128 miles. In the afternoon, the wind was more 
 westerly, and even northwesterly. We went along tolera- 
 bly well the whole night. 
 
 S(h, Thursday. The ship ran 160 to 108 miles in the 
 twenty-four hours. It blew a storm in the first part of the 
 night from the northwest; but after midnight it subsided, 
 though the sea hove so, that not only was the progress 
 stopped, but the ship tossed and pitched exceedingly. 
 
 9th, Friday. The wind was less at daylight, and the 
 pitching of the ship gradually lessened. Reckoned the 
 latitude 49° 30', and the distance 140 miles. About mid- 
 night the wind shifted to the southwest, and afterwards 
 south southwest, with heavy rain. The course was a little 
 northeast by east, and afterwards in order to keep the ship 
 straight before the wind, northeast by north. 
 
 lOih, Saturday. The wind began with the day to subside 
 gradually. The course was laid northeast. We reckoned 
 the distance 120 miles. 
 
 11th, Sunday. It was quite good weather, but cloudy. 
 The captain took an observation as well as he could, which 
 gave 52° 23'. The distance was reckoned 100 miles. The 
 captain and mate took an observation of the north star. 
 
 12th, Monday. The wind west northwest, a light topsail 
 
CARDS. SPOILED FISH. 
 
 403 
 
 breeze. Obtained a good observation ; and fonnd tbe lati- 
 tude 53° 46', tbe distance sailed 136 miles, tbe course beld 
 northeast. We were now about 640 miles from Ireland. 
 
 13^/t, Tuesday. Tbe wind northwest, and north northwest, 
 with a cloudy sky. Course northeast by east. Tbe dis- 
 tance sailed 118 miles. 
 
 14^A, Wednesday. Last evening tbe wind was northeast 
 and north northeast, and we had, therefore, to sail on seve- 
 ral courses, but the course held was east by south, and the 
 distance made 60 miles. Although it began to be cold we 
 could endure it the more cheerfully because we were 
 approaching home. 
 
 15th, Tlmrsday. It became quite calm. We obtained an 
 observation at noon, and found the latitude 54° 49'. The 
 distance was 56 miles, and the course held east by south, 
 a little more easterly, but by noon it began to blow so that 
 the topsails had to be reefed. Our passengers, who sat 
 every night, almost the whole night, playing cards, minister 
 and all, bad played and drank so this night, that they were 
 at daylight assaulting each other pell mell. They fre- 
 quently deprived us of sleep. We had to thank God, 
 which we did in our hearts, that he had kept us from being 
 in their company. 
 
 16ih, Friday. The wind as before, and the progress good. 
 The course northeast. We obtained a good observation of 
 56° 20'. The distance sailed was 132 miles. In the after- 
 noon the wind was west and west southwest. 
 
 At the time the sea burst into the gunner's room, it ran 
 into the powder room where there was a large quantity 
 of dry fish. This began to rot, and for a long time 
 caused a stench in the gunner's room, the cause of which we 
 could not imagine. We could hardly stay there day or 
 night. There was also lying in the crib a wounded Hol- 
 steiner, who had lain sick three years with his wound at 
 Boston, and was now going to Europe. We gave this 
 
404 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 poor fellow all the blame of the stench, and not altogether 
 unjustly, for he could not help himself much; but, never- 
 theless, we had done him wrong, for the powder room being 
 opened, all the fish had to be brought up in order to be 
 dried, and those which were spoiled thrown overboard. 
 There was also a large chest of cloaks, all new, which had 
 been taken to the Barbados for sale, and thence to Boston ; 
 but were now being carried from Boston to England, 
 because they could not be sold. They were now wet with 
 foul, salt and stinking water, and half spoiled. There was 
 also a case of white braided gloves for women and children, 
 which had to be washed in fresh water and dried, and a 
 large parcel of beaver skins. 
 
 17/A, Saturday* I slept very little last night in conse- 
 quence of the noise. We had sailed during the night a 
 little to the east, because our captain was afraid of falling 
 on the island of Bus, as he was not much west of it, though 
 according to our reckoning he was to the east of it. We 
 found our latitude was 57° 30', and therefore hoped to pass 
 Bus and the rock Rockol. We sailed on several courses, 
 but the one maintained was northeast by north. The dis- 
 tance sailed was 100 miles. I remained on deck myself, 
 in order to keep a lookout for the great rock Rockol. 
 
 18M, Sunday. We took an observation. Latitude 58° 30'. 
 It was very cold here and the days long. The wind con- 
 tinued northeast and north northeast, with hard weather, 
 which caused us to take in our sails, and about ten o'clock 
 in the evening to tack about. 
 
 19th } Monday. We obtained an observation at 57° 51', 
 and we still more believed we were before the rock Rockol, 
 which lies in 57° 40' : but we put our hope and trust in 
 God, committing ourselves into his hands. 
 
 20th, Tuesday. It became gradually more still, and at last 
 we could sail east northeast, and northeast. We had sailed 
 72 miles. We could not take an observation. 
 
THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 
 
 405 
 
 21st, Wednesday. The wind was northwest, and our 
 course east and east by north, with little headway. We 
 found the latitude 58° 10' ; the course held was east by 
 north ; the distance 40 miles. We, therefore, supposed we 
 were between Rockol and St. Kilda. Towards evening the 
 wind shot from the north northwest, so that we could sail 
 east northeast, and afterwards northeast by east ; but there 
 was a rolling sea, and, therefore, we could not go ahead 
 much because it came from the front. The wind, how- 
 ever, improved. 
 
 22rf, Thursday. The wind was west northwest, and the 
 course northeast by east, with the sea continuing to roll 
 against us in front. We found ourselves at noon in 59° W 
 at which we rejoiced, because we had to enter the North 
 sea between the 59th and 60th degree. The distance 
 sailed was 88 miles upon several courses. At noon the 
 course was set northeast by east in order to sail above the 
 island of little Barro. There was a small purse made up 
 by the passengers, each one contributing what he pleased, for 
 the person who should first discover land. "We gave two 
 shillings each. The minister would not give any thing. 
 It seems that meanness is a peculiarity of this class of 
 people. This was done, in order that the sailors might 
 look out more zealously for land, and so we might not 
 fall upon land unexpectedly. The purse was nailed to the 
 mast, so that being always in sight, it might be a constant 
 incentive, and whoever might first see land might take 
 it ofi°. We were becalmed the whole night. 
 
 23c?, Friday. It was calm, beautiful weather. They 
 thought they saw land; so the sailors said; and that it 
 was Barro ; but I could observe nothing. We also had 
 greener water, and, therefore, supposed we were on sound- 
 ings. The deep lead was thrown, but at 200 fathoms it 
 came short. The latitude was 79° 34'. The wind north- 
 east, and we sailed east, for we were almost in the latitude 
 
406 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME 
 
 of the south point of Shetland. We saw several times, 
 quantities of spermaeeti drifting, a yellowish fat, which 
 lies in the water, all together, hut solid like the green 
 scum, which floats in ditches. We also saw rockweed 
 floating ; and a small land bird came on hoard tlie ship, from 
 which wo concluded we were approaching land. The 
 wind was more free, and after running out and in, it re- 
 mained north northeast. It blew so hard that the topsails 
 had to he reefed at first, and then taken in. We sailed 
 sometimes east, then east hy north and east hy south, and 
 again east. 
 
 24/A, Saturday. It blew very hard from the north north- 
 east accompanied hy rain, and we, therefore, could not 
 ascertain the latitude but reckoned we were in 59° 20'. The 
 course was held half way between east and south, which 
 brought us near the before mentioned rocks. It became 
 calm at night. 
 
 2i)(/i, Sunday. It continued calm until noon. We ob- 
 tained the altitude, 59° 30'. Our progress was 40 miles, 
 and the course a little more north than east. At noon the 
 wind was south and south southeast, with a fresh breeze. 
 We saw this morning a flock of land birds, like finches ; 
 also pigeons and small gulls, which keep themselves on 
 the shore. Towards evening it was very foggy. We 
 sailed during the night east southeast. 
 
 Monday. It was tolerably good weather, but it 
 soon came up thick and rainy with a strong wind. We 
 continued sailing east by south. Calculated the distance 
 56 miles. We kept a good look out, for my reckoning 
 upon the one chart was out and differed from the other 
 only 32 miles. The Lord protects us from disaster, and 
 will guide us further, as we fully trust in him. 
 
 21th, Tuesday. We had not had during the whole voyage 
 such hard weather as during this night. The wind was 
 southeast and south southeast, with a thick mist and rain, 
 
THE ORKNEYS. RIDICULOUS FRIGHT. 407 
 
 which at last made us lie by, with only the mizzen sail, in 
 a hard short sea which tossed and pitched us. We saw all 
 day many land and sea birds which caused us to look out 
 carefully for land. The distance made was 84 miles. At 
 evening the wind was south southwest, whereby we sailed 
 or drifted east by south and south southeast until day. 
 
 28th, Wednesday. It was better weather, and we again 
 began to sail. The wind was southwest. The lower sails 
 were well reefed, but we shipped several heavy seas. The 
 sea rolled the whole day. It was lucky for a sailor that 
 the Lord preserved him from being washed overboard by 
 an over-breaking sea; it was a narrow escape, but in 
 floating off he caught a rope or something, to which he 
 clung and was saved. We saw much seaweed, and whole 
 flocks of rock and land birds, and also a species of ducks 
 and geese, besides another kind of bird. Fish lines were 
 made ready, but we could catch nothing. The latitude 
 was 59° 51', which was a good height and encouraged us. 
 We sailed still east southeast on a maintained east course. 
 
 29th, Thursday. While we were at prayer this morning, 
 "Land! Land!" was called out; and although these 
 prayers were so drowsy and miserable, especially for us, 
 who were opposed to their doctrines, I had to restrain and 
 mortify myself by not going up on deck, as several did, and 
 almost all wished to do. It was the gunner who first dis- 
 covered land, and took from the mast the little purse in 
 which he found 28 shillings and 6 pence sterling, that is, 
 fifteen guilders and fourteen stuivers, a good day's wages. 
 The land we saw was the Orkney islands, 28 to 32 miles 
 south southeast of us which we sketched as well as we 
 could. About two hours afterwards we saw very high 
 land in front of us to the leeward, which we supposed at 
 first was Fairhill, but we soon saw other land in front on 
 the starboard, and we now discovered that the land to the 
 larboard was the rock Falo, and that on the starboard was 
 
408 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 Faii-hill. 1 I sat on the main yard to observe how the land 
 rose up, and while there, saw a vessel or a sail, which soon 
 caused great consternation on hoard of our ship, and still 
 more when I said there were two of them. They were 
 afraid they were Turks; and so much did this idea hlind 
 them, that eyes, understanding and reason had no office to 
 perform. These small vessels were certainly large ships 
 and Turks. Every thing was put out of the way ; many 
 did not know what they were doing from fear, which in- 
 creased greatly, when they saw one of the vessels coming 
 towards us before the wind. It was all hurly-burly and 
 every one was ordered immediately to quarters. I was 
 very busy, our place being on the quarter-deck where 
 there were four guns, which I pushed into the port holes. 
 These were loaded and we were soon ready for fight. In 
 the meanwhile, the vessel coming nearer, the minister, 
 who should have encouraged the others, ran below into 
 the powder room, all trembling and shaking. He inquired 
 if that was far enough below water, and if he could be 
 shot there. Another person from the East Indies was 
 with him. The surgeon had all things ready for the battle, 
 but unfortunately I looked out and saw it was a Dutch 
 smack with a small topsail, flying the Prince's flag. But 
 they silenced me ; Turk it was, and Turk it should re- 
 main, and I must go back to my quarters. At last she 
 came along side, and they hailed her, but could not under- 
 stand what was replied. I was then called upon to speak 
 to them, and I went on the stern and saw it was as I had 
 said. I inquired where they were from, and what they 
 were doing there. They answered, they were from 
 Amsterdam; were cruising in search of two East Indiamen 
 which the chamber of Amsterdam had missed, and they 
 
 •A small island between the Orkneys and the Shetland islands. Several 
 shore line views of it accompany the journal. 
 
ENTERING THE NORTH SEA. 
 
 409 
 
 wanted to know whether we had seen an}' thing of them. 
 We informed them we had seen no ships since we were 
 on the banks of Newfoundland, and we were from New 
 England, bound to London. We asked if there were any 
 danger from the Turks. None at all, they said, which 
 gave courage to our captain and others, as well as the 
 minister, who had emerged from the powder room, where 
 he had hidden himself. We also inquired how affairs 
 stood with England, Holland and France. They answered 
 well, as far as they knew. Having obtained this informa- 
 tion, I told our captain such good news was worth a salute, 
 and he fired a six-pounder shotted. The Dutch captain 
 asked for a little tobacco in exchange for pickled herrings ; 
 but many excuses were offered, and he got none. He said 
 the other vessel was a Hollander from Iceland, and we 
 had nothing to fear ; that almost all the ships which we 
 might see in the North sea were ships from Holland ; a 
 remark which annoyed our captain and the others very 
 much ; and not being able to stand it, they tacked about 
 ship and wore off, leaving the cruiser and passing outside, 
 or between Fairhill and the Orkneys. 
 
 30th, Friday. We had lain over again at midnight, 
 with a south southwest wind. At daybreak it was entirely 
 calm. I was called out of my berth to go to the captain, in 
 order to discriminate the land, distinguishing Fairhill and 
 the Orkneys. He exhibited great ignorance and fear, for 
 we had seen the land well the day before, and the cruiser 
 had fully informed us ; he knew well enough how we had 
 sailed during the night, and with what progress, and that 
 we all agreed with the foregoing height of the pole. We 
 took several crayon sketches of Fairhill and the other 
 lands, the more because they are not shown from that 
 side in the Zcesjncgel of Lichtende Colom. 1 We found the 
 
 1 The Sea Mirror or Lightning Column, a book of sea charts published by 
 52 
 
410 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE ITOME. 
 
 latitude to-day to ho 59° 40'. Many birds came round the 
 ship, and some sparrow hawks and small blue hawks, 
 which we caught with our hands. We stretched over 
 again to the Orkneys, in order to be clear of FairhiU ; the 
 wind being southeast and southeast by east, we had foggy 
 and misty weather. 
 
 31st, Saturday. We saw the Orkneys this morn- 
 ing, although we had shifted eight miles during the 
 night. We stretched away from them again and dis- 
 covered a strong current, which the nearer Scotland and 
 the Orkneys it was the stronger it was. It runs mostly 
 east and east southeast, and west and west northwest. 
 The latitude obtained was 59° 26'. At evening we 
 found ourselves about 28 or 32 miles from Fairhill 
 north northeast. This is a beautiful round hill, as its 
 name in p]nglish denotes. We held our course with 
 several tacks, over and back, to reach the North sea. We 
 saw several ships but could not get near enough to 
 speak to them. 
 
 September 1st, Sunday. The weather was misty; the 
 wind as before, calm. Could not obtain the latitude, but 
 we reckoned we had sailed about forty miles, east by 
 south. We saw some herring-busses. 
 
 2d, Monday. The wind continued southeast and south 
 southeast. The weather was good but calm and misty. 
 We calculated the latitude 58° 40'. We kept beating 
 from and to the shore. 
 
 3d, Tuesday. It was still drizzling and calm. We saw 
 several vessels in which we would gladly have been, in 
 order to see if there were no opportunity of going in them 
 to Holland, whither they seemed to be sailing, or at least to 
 obtain some refreshment of fish or something else; but 
 
 Peter Goos, of Amsterdam, both in Dutch and English. The edition before 
 us is the English one, with the date of 1668. 
 
JUTLAND REEF. THE DOGGERBANK. 4H 
 
 the captain would not consent. At noon we turned 
 towards the shore and sailed mostly south. 
 
 4th, Wednesday. The wind southeast and south southeast, 
 with dead water as if we were sailing in a river. "We had 
 been near the shore all night, on various courses, of one, two 
 and three points difference. We took a good observation, 
 namely, 58° 8'; the distance sailed was sixty miles, the 
 course held south southwest. At noon the water was 
 greener, and we, therefore, supposed we were in deeper 
 water. We saw this morning the four ockcrs [Dutch fishing 
 boats], before mentioned behind us, but we were soon after- 
 wards out of sight of them. 
 
 5th, Thursday. Our course was east by north and east 
 northeast, now a little in, and then again out. The wind 
 was mostly south southwest. We found the latitude 58° 
 34', so much were we set north. We had not gone ahead far, 
 as there was not much wind, and the sea rolled directly 
 against us. We reckoned the distance to be at night 
 forty miles. But it was entirety calm, and the wind 
 subsided with mist and rain. We drifted thus all night. 
 The deep lead was thrown at midnight, and eighty fathoms 
 of water were found. We endeavored to catch some fish, 
 but did not succeed. We caught several sparrow hawks 
 and small blue hawks. 
 
 6th, Friday. We had made little progress. The wind 
 was northwest. There was a thick mist with drizzling 
 rain. Our course until noon was east southeast; the 
 latitude was 79° ; the distance 104 miles. We spoke an 
 ocker, and inquired where we were. He said he was lying 
 on the reef to fish, about 136 miles, he supposed, from New 
 Castle, in Scotland, southwest of him, which agreed well 
 with our calculation. Had 50 fathoms of water. This 
 reef shoots out from the coast of Jutland and runs into the 
 middle of the North sea, northwardly around the Shetland 
 islands, and- from thence almost to Rockol, but it lies nearer 
 
412 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 the Scottish coast than the coast of Norway, and a little more 
 so than is represented on the chart. We caught many birds 
 and also swallows. 
 
 1th, Saturday. It had been very calm through the night ; 
 but the wind shifted to the south, and we, therefore, had 
 to change our course continually; at last it was south 
 southeast, and we could not sail higher than west by north. 
 We found the latitude 56° 24', but could not judge well 
 because the sun was obscured. The reckoning was 55° 
 55' ; the course was south by west; the distance 56 miles. 
 We here came into a whole school of tunnies which 
 afforded us great amusement. We also saw several ships 
 ahead of us, and heard much firing of guns. 
 
 Hth, Sunday. Calm and rainy weather. We had made 
 this whole night and from noon yesterday, not more than 
 28 or 32 miles progress. The course was south southeast 
 sailing over against the wind, in order to come upon the 
 Doggerbank. Saw several vessels, one of which ran before 
 us, over to New Castle. Reckoned at noon to-day we 
 were 40 miles from the Doggerbank. 
 
 9//i, Monday. In the morning watch, threw the deep lead 
 in 25 fathoms, sandy bottom, green, white and red. About 
 ten o'clock we had 20 fathoms with the same ground. The 
 atmosphere was thick and hazy. The latitude we supposed 
 was 55° 19'. We were now certainly on the Doggerbank. 
 We caught many young spier hayties, which the English 
 call dogs, and because large numbers of these fish always 
 keep there, the bank, which is very large and almost makes 
 the figure of a fishing boat, is called the Doggerbank. At 
 four o'clock we had 18 fathoms, and in the evening 17. 
 The course still south southeast, and the wind northeast, 
 breezy and calm, intermingled. In the night the deep 
 lead was thrown several times, and we found 19, 18, 15 
 and 14 fathoms of water. 
 
 10^/*, Tuesday. The wind blew from most all points; at 
 
EASTERN COAST OF ENGLAND. 
 
 413 
 
 ten o'clock it was northeast and east northeast, with 12, 11, 
 10, 9J fathoms of water. The latitude was 54° 44'. We 
 saw several large ships and heard heavy firing of guns 
 which made our captain and others, very serious, for we 
 heard 40 or 50 shots. Seeing a ship behind us, we let the 
 sails run and waited for her. On her approaching us, we 
 found she was a Dutch flute ; and when we spoke her, 
 they said they were from Muscovy, bound for Amster- 
 dam. We wished with our whole hearts we were on board 
 of her with our goods, for we would then sooner have been 
 home. There was a rolling sea, so that there was no 
 prospect of being put aboard of her ; besides, the captain 
 would not have been willing. They could not tell us 
 much news. We asked where they reckoned they were, 
 and they said not far from where we knew, that they were 
 on the Doggerbank. In the evening we found the water 
 deeper than 20 fathoms, and afterwards 25, at midnight 
 30, and in the day watch 45, with a bottom of fine sand. 
 
 11th, Wednesday. In the forenoon, found the water more 
 shallow, 25, 23 and 20 fathoms, and we, therefore, believed 
 we had passed from the Doggerbank to the Welle, another 
 bank so called. We obtained a good observation, and the 
 latitude was 54° net, the ship's altitude 5' being deducted, 
 left 43° 55', which agreed very well with our chart, with 
 the depth, and our reckoning. The distance was put at 
 40 miles: We saw many ships around us, but could speak 
 none. It continued calm until evening, when we found 
 20 and afterwards 17 fathom water, over a coarse red and 
 white sandy bottom, mixed with small stones. The course 
 was south southeast. 
 
 12th, Thursday. The latitude 53° 45', that is the height 
 of our eyes above the water being deducted ; the distance 
 24 miles; the course south southeast, a little southerly. 
 We reckoned we were at the middle of the Welle bank. 
 We longed for a good wind, and we were only sixty miles 
 
414 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 from Yarmouth and 100 or 104 from Harwich. We fished 
 a little, but ouly caught two or three small codfish, and 
 hauled up with the hook a great quantity of stone and sea 
 weed. In the first watch the wind was north and north- 
 east, with slack water in 15, 14, 17, 19 and 20 fathoms. 
 The captain, therefore, sailed southeast and southeast by 
 south, through fear of the Lcmenoirs and other Yarmouth 
 shoals. 
 
 VUh, Friday. It blew a stiff topsail breeze. We had 17 
 and 18 fathoms of water, which looked quite white, and 
 made me think we were near the White water, another 
 bank so named, on which there is 17 and 16 fathoms. 
 We sailed south southwest. We waited for a herring-bus 
 coming towards us, and spoke to her. She was from 
 Rotterdam, had been to sea a long time, and had seen no 
 land. They told us they were between Wells and the 
 AVhite water, nearer the latter, and that South Foreland 
 was south southwest of us. They could tell us nothing 
 more. We wished we were in the bus, for then we 
 might have been in the Maes that evening, as she had a 
 good wind. The latitude was 52° 50'. We sailed south- 
 west in 23 fathoms of water, with a bottom of fine sand a 
 little reddish and mixed with black. In sailing towards 
 the shore we had 18 fathoms ; when about three, or half 
 past three o'clock in the afternoon they cried out, land ! 
 and proceeding further on, we saw the grove near Yar- 
 mouth, and shortly afterwards Yarmouth steeple, south- 
 west by west and west southwest from us. We sailed 
 more southerly and discovered the whole coast. We came 
 to anchor about seven o'clock in 16 fathoms. 
 
 1-ith, Saturday. It had been good weather through the 
 night, and we had rested well. We saw when the sun 
 rose, which shone against the coast and was entirely clear, 
 how the coast ran. The land is not so high as it is west 
 of the Thames to Land's End. There are many villages. 
 
ARRIVAL IN THE THAMES. LONDON. 415 
 
 Yarmouth, looked like a pleasant little place, as it lay 
 north northwest of us. We saw many ships sailing one 
 way and the other. Having waited for the ehb to run out 
 we got under sail about eight o'clock. "We sailed by 
 Sowls, 1 and came to anchor again about three o'clock in 
 the afternoon. The passengers had every thing ready to 
 go ashore, and so over land to London. There was a sig- 
 nal made with the flag from our ship, and a shot fired for 
 a pilot or some one else to come on board. Towards 
 evening a small boat came with five men, but no pilot. 
 The flood making about nine or ten o'clock in the even- 
 ing, and running along the whole Scottish and English 
 coast, from the Orkneys to the Thames, we sailed on 
 again until we came to another village where our passen- 
 gers went ashore. It was about midnight. The weather 
 was fine and the moon shone bright ; we fired five or six 
 guns. The minister was sad and complained that it was 
 Sunday, or Saturday evening, and he dared not go ashore, 
 lest he should break the Sabbath; but finally he let his 
 wishes override his scruples, and went off with the passen- 
 gers. "We obtained a pilot and some refreshments, and 
 then sailed on till we came before Dunwich, 2 the oldest 
 place in England, and once the mightiest in commerce. 
 We came again to anchor in order to wait for the tide. 
 The wind continued west southwest. 
 
 15th, Sunday. The wind mostly as before. We were 
 under sail about ten o'clock, with the flood tide, and 
 
 1 Southwold, a small seaport town on the east coast of England, 94 miles 
 northwest of London. Southwold or Sole bay was the scene of the great 
 naval battle between the Dutch, under De Ruyter, and the English and 
 French, under the Duke of York and Marshal d'Estrees, in May, 1672. 
 
 2 This town appears in old times to have been a great place of commerce 
 in herring. In the year 1195, it was obliged to deliver 24,000 herrings to 
 the king. Its importance has been entirely destroyed by incroachments 
 of the sea upon its harbor.— McCulloch. 
 
41G 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE ITOME. 
 
 tacked along the land in seven fathoms of water to the 
 point of Aldborough, to reach which we made five or 
 six short tacks. Running close to the shore, we came 
 among a fleet of, I think, full 200 coal ships, all beating 
 up the river, which made it difficult to avoid each other. 
 We passed through the King's channel. I have never 
 seen so many sunken ships as there were in the mouth of 
 the Thames, full eight or ten in different places, from 
 various causes. The tide being spent we came to anchor 
 before a village called St. Peter. 
 
 16th, Monday. The wind being mostly north, the 
 weather was cold and piercing. The whole fleet was 
 under sail, with the flood tide, and we along with them. 
 They had talked loudly in Boston of the sailing qualities 
 of our ship, but almost the whole coal fleet sailed ahead of 
 us. 
 
 18th, Wednesday. The wind remained still, with mist. 
 "We saw it would be some days yet before the ship would 
 reach the city, and, therefore, determined to go up in a 
 wherry, that is, a row-boat, from Gravesend. As soon as 
 one came alongside we went aboard, and passed by Graves- 
 end, and other villages. It was nine o'clock in the even- 
 ing when we landed at St. Catharines, and went to a 
 tavern called the Dutch Smack, but they would not re- 
 ceive us. We then went to the Inlander, the landlord of 
 which was a Fleming, and a papist, but not the worst one. 
 We paid for the boat three English shillings in all. We 
 three, namely, Vorsman, Jan Ovins, the surgeon of our 
 ship, a Rotterdammer, and myself, supped together ; this 
 was the first time we had slept in a bed in a long time. 
 
 19th, Thursday. We went through the city, the newly 
 built portion, as well as the other, but we found it very 
 different from what we had imagined. We went to the 
 Exchange and conversed with our captain and the 
 other passengers. We endeavored to find the first vessel 
 
ST. JAMES'S PARK. KING CHARLES II. 
 
 417 
 
 going to Holland. They told us there were two smacks 
 or galiots lying ready, and would leave on Monday, for 
 which we prepared ourselves. 
 
 20(h, Friday. We went to Whitehall, where the king 
 resides, and where we supposed we would see something 
 special in the buildings, hut in this we were mistaken. 
 There are better places in London ; the best house there 
 was the banqueting house, which does not surpass some 
 merchants' houses in Amsterdam. "We strolled into St. 
 James's Park, which is nothing but a large inclosed 
 meadow, with some canals and ditches dug through it, in 
 one portion of which are ducks swimming, and willow 
 trees planted. The guard on horseback coming ahead, we 
 heard the king was in the park. We went in, but did not 
 see him ; but walking through we saw his curiosities of 
 birds which he kept there in cages slightly enough closed, 
 such as eagles, cranes, a very large owl, a toucan, birds 
 which we call hoontjen, in Friesland, virviteaus, doves, 
 starlings, and others of little importance. He had received 
 from the Indies, by the last ships, two ostriches or casso- 
 waries which were shut up and much prized, though they 
 are very common in Holland. We came to his horse 
 stable ; there was only one horse in it, that was so lean it 
 shamed every one, as also did the small size of the stable, 
 which stood near that of the Duke of Monmouth, where 
 there were six tolerable good Frisic horses, with a saddle 
 horse or two. Our stables look more kingly than these. 
 We were about leaving the place when we heard them cry 
 out, " to arms ! to arms ! " to a troop of soldiers standing- 
 there, and looking around, we saw at a distance the king 
 coming, accompanied by six or eight noblemen, from 
 whom you could distinguish him only from his having his 
 hat on his head, while they had theirs off. He saluted all 
 who saluted him, as he passed along, which he also did us. 
 I will not speak of his person as he has been sufficiently 
 53 
 
418 BOSTON, AND TIIE VOYAGE IIOME. 
 
 described by pen and burin} Nor will I speak of tbe con- 
 dition of London. Tbe long and sbort of it is, that city is 
 larger than Amsterdam, but does approach it, or any other 
 city in Holland, either in neatness or in the regularity of the 
 buildings, even those erected since the great fire. What 
 are worthy of mention is a certain column, very high and 
 well constructed, erected on the spot where the great fire 
 broke out in 1666, and the tower, not prettily built, but 
 very old, constructed by the Romans in the time of Julius 
 Cresar. "Whitehall and Westminster, and all within them, 
 are not worth going to see. 
 
 31s/, Scdurday. Our ship having arrived before the city 
 yesterday, we went on board to bring away our goods, as 
 also did the surgeon. We took leave of the captain, mate 
 and carpenter, who was a young man and a Norman, 
 stupid, but not the most evilly disposed. He had our love, 
 and I had occasionally conversed with him when we were 
 on the watch together at night, and sometimes made an 
 impression upon him. lie lived at Flushing, and wished, 
 he said, he could go and live with me even for nothing. 
 He desired me not to forget him. I must also say this of 
 the captain, that he was well known in London, and in all 
 Boston, as a pious, good and discreet man; but I was as- 
 tonished when I saw and heard the following circumstance. 
 A poor servant, who had served his time out in New Eng- 
 land, came to him in Boston and asked if he could go over 
 with him; he would do his best in working like any 
 other sailor for his passage, as he well understood ship- 
 work. The captain told him he might go with him. 
 When we were at sea, this person was sick several days, 
 and when he recovered did as well as he could, but, it is 
 true, he did not do all that an experienced sailor could have 
 done. When we arrived in the North sea the captain made 
 
 1 Charles II. 
 
BOSTON WITCHCRAFT. DUKE OF YORK. 419 
 
 a memorandum by which this poor fellow promised to pay- 
 half the passage money, that is, thirty guilders, when he 
 arrived in London. He called him, and read it to him, 
 and told him, because he could not work like a good 
 sailor, he must sign that writing, and if he did not do so, 
 he would sell him again when he reached London, which 
 he assured him would be done. The man began to com- 
 plain and cry, saying he had not so promised, but he 
 would work like any other, and do as well as he could. 
 But, notwithstanding his crying and objecting, he had to 
 sign the paper, or be sold. In this, appeared the piety and 
 sense of justice of our captain, though perhaps the other 
 was not entirely without blame, though he had had blows 
 enough. It seems he had some friends in London who 
 paid the amount. 
 
 I must here mention another word about Boston, which 
 is, that I have never been in a place where more was said* 
 about witchcraft and witches. From time to time persons 
 had been put in prison, and executed ; and a woman was 
 in prison and condemned to die, when we left there. 1 
 Very strange things were told of her, but I will not repeat 
 them here. 
 
 22d, Sunday. I went into the Dutch church where a 
 young man, who was a Cocceian, preached. In the after- 
 noon we went to the French church, and in going there, 
 passed by a large gate, through which many people were 
 entering into a great hall. "We looked in, and when we 
 saw they were quakers, walked quickly away, and went 
 
 1 On the 20th May, 1680, Elizabeth Morse, the wife of William Morse, of 
 Newbury, was indicted and tried in Boston, for practicing with craft upon 
 her own husband. She was convicted and sentenced to be hung ; and 
 was in prison at Boston, at the time our journalist was there, awaiting 
 her execution. It is, undoubtedly, her case to which he refers. She was, 
 however, reprieved from time to time, and finally released altogether. — 
 Coffin's Newbury, 122, 126, 134. 
 
120 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 into the French church, whose congregation in much 
 linger, and its church much smaller than the Dutch 
 church — so small indeed, they could not all get in. 
 When, therefore, the Lord's Supper was administered, 
 they used the Dutch church, and the Dutch preached then 
 in the French church, as they are not far apart. But as 
 the French church was especially for the French, we went 
 out, my comrade for the purpose of inquiring after Mr. 
 Ovins, and I, to go to the Dutch church again, where 
 another Cocceian preached well enough. I saw there the 
 envoy from Holland, a Zeelander, whom I knew with his 
 family ; but he did not know me. 
 
 23d, Monday. It was said we were to leave to-day, but 
 we saw it would not be the case. The captain, with whom 
 we were to go, was one Douwe Hobbes of Makkum, who 
 brings birds over from Friesland, every year for the king. 
 There was a boat lying there ready to leave for Rotterdam, 
 but it seems they intended to go in company. 
 
 24/A, Tuesday. No departure to-day either. "While we 
 were at the Exchange, there was a great crowd of people 
 in the street. We saw and heard two trumpeters, followed 
 by a company of cavalry, dressed in red, then a chariot 
 drawn by six horses, in which was the Duke of York. 
 Then came some chariots of the nobility, and the Prince 
 Palatine, with several chariots, and two trumpeters in the 
 rear. 
 
 2bth, Wednesday. Could not sail yet, but the Rotter- 
 dammer sailed with thirty passengers, with little or no 
 freight. In going down she broke the bowsprit of our 
 ship." Mr. Ovins left us in her, after we had taken leave 
 of him. 
 
 26th, Thursday. Heard early this morning our ship was 
 going down the river, for she lay opposite our room ; we 
 immediately hurried ourselves. It was very uncivil in the 
 mate, for the captain was still in the city, and would go to 
 
GRAYESEND. HARWICH. 
 
 421 
 
 Gravesend. We took a wherry and went after her, as she 
 had not gone far in consequence of the mist and lightness 
 of the wind. We drifted to-day scarcely outside of the 
 ships. 
 
 27th, Friday. It was misty and calm. We, therefore, did 
 not go as far as the current would have carried us. We 
 had to come to anchor, in consequence of the mist, in 
 order not to drift against the ships, or upon the shoal. 
 
 28th, Saturday. We drifted and clawed along until we 
 came to anchor, hefore Gravesend, as the Rotterdammer 
 did an hour or two afterwards. Ovins, who was not very 
 well accommodated, called out to us as we passed, and 
 asked if we would not go ashore with him. We declined, 
 for we could not have wished to have been better accom- 
 modated, as we two had a large, fine cabin to ourselves. 
 
 29th, Sunday. When we took our goods out of the ship 
 at London, we let our trunks be examined, but there was 
 nothing inspected. We gave the inspectors a penny and 
 they were satisfied. Our skipper arrived now at Graves- 
 end in the night, and had every thing made ready for the 
 inspectors. We had ourselves ready for their arrival. 
 They came on board about eight o'clock, but they looked 
 once only in the hatches without asking any thing, and 
 went away again. We went ashore in the forenoon and 
 dined there. We had been to London, and the captain 
 said we should eat the ship's ordinary fare, which seemed 
 now to us, princely fare. However, as he was most of the 
 time drunk when on shore, he had given it no considera- 
 tion. We went through Gravesend to look at it, but it 
 does not signify much — it is more foul and dirty, in name, 
 than in fact. We also went out into the country a little, 
 which pleased us best. I have never seen anywhere, so 
 many blackberries, which were now ripe. The ebb tide 
 having come, we got under sail yet before evening, the 
 wind being good, but it did not continue so long. Oppo- 
 
422 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 site Gravesend, there is a strong castle well fortified, and 
 another one of less importance, on the lower side. When- 
 ever ships pass up or down ; they must strike here in going 
 between the two fortifications. We arrived at evening 
 before the river of Chatham, where we anchored. 
 
 $0th, Monday. The wind was easterly and light. We 
 scratched along as far as to get in the King's channel, as 
 also did the Rotterdammer, which sailed down with us. 
 
 October 1st, Tuesday. The wind as before; we, there- 
 fore, tacked with the tide, before the Naze, intending to 
 run into Harwich, both for the purpose of waiting for a 
 good wind, and to buy a store of provision which the skip- 
 per, through his drunkenness had forgotten. The Rotter- 
 dammer, which had not kept along the shore with us, 
 but had continued through the King's channel, finding no 
 good harbor there, returned again to Chatham, in order, 
 as the wind continued south southeast, to go out along 
 the south shore, and thus we separated. 
 
 2d, Wednesday. The wind still easterly, we, therefore, 
 made several tacks, and ran into Harwich; a miserably 
 poor little fort stands on the east point of the bay, yet 
 you must strike your flag as you sail by it. The bay is 
 large and suitable to harbor a great number of ships. 
 The town is on the west side, passing which, a small river 
 runs up into the land. We anchored about ten o'clock in 
 the morning. We went ashore and dined, and I then, in 
 company with some others, walked out of town ; but my 
 comrade returned, having concluded to cross over in the 
 packet boat, and went to inquire about it. When I re- 
 turned he told me it would leave that evening, and would 
 save much time. He spoke to our skipper, who was not 
 willing to release us, without paying him the whole pas- 
 sage money, namely, two ducatoons a piece. Many words 
 passed and hard enough they were on both sides, in which 
 the skipper was veiy impertinent, yet not altogether in 
 
CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 
 
 423 
 
 the wrong. We went aboard, and his passion having 
 subsided, we satisfied him with two ducats, and took our 
 goods to the packet boat. We went ashore to enter our 
 names, according to the custom ; my comrade giving his 
 acknowledged name, I was compelled to do the same. We paid 
 twelve shillings and six-pence each. We went into 
 another room to take fresh leave of our captain and mate, 
 when there came a scoundrel to take down our names, 
 and examine our goods as he said, and we were compelled 
 to give the same names again, in order they might agree 
 with those given before ; but he was a swindler and ob- 
 tained from each of us another shilling, for he did not go 
 on board to examine, although he could perhaps do so; 
 we went quickly on board to look after our property. It 
 was about nine o'clock at night when we started ; but as 
 it was so calm we came outside without casting anchor, 
 having a full moon and delightful weather. A sand reef 
 stretches out into the sea from the before mentioned little 
 fort, inside of which the water is the deepest, being three 
 and four fathoms at low water. It is shallowest in tbe 
 middle, and level towards the west shore, having two 
 fathoms of water or less. There are two lights in the 
 town, which you bring in range, in order to sail in or out. 
 The highest light stands most inside, and when that comes 
 west of the lowest you are west of the gate or channel ; 
 and when it is east, you are east of the channel, and are 
 on, or east of the reef. 
 
 3d, Thursday. The wind east southeast, and we, there- 
 fore, sailed along the shore past Orfordness into the sea. 
 The course thence to the Maes, is east by south, but we 
 sailed for the most part east, and sometimes east by north. 
 I thought our Friesland smack was at sea before evening, 
 for the wind was better for her than for us, as the course 
 from Orfordness to the Texel, is east northeast, which was 
 a due side wind. It was also better for the Rotterdammer. 
 
424 
 
 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 4(h, Friday. The wind east southeast and east by south, 
 hut still. We continued our course easterly, and some- 
 times a little more northerly. We threw the deep lead 
 and had 18 fathoms of water. The latitude at noon was 
 52° 25'. I warned them that we were too low, and would 
 come hefore Schevclingh. This packet was so full of fleas 
 that it was impossible for me to sleep. Every passenger 
 who desired a berth, had to pay five shillings for it, but 
 we did not. There was such a hard rain in the night, 
 accompanied by thunder and lightning, that we could not 
 keep dry in the vessel below, for it leaked there as if it 
 were open, or not much better. We had an English 
 minister on board, who had been called to the English 
 church at Rotterdam. lie lay and prayed, and groaned, 
 as hard and loud as if he would die of fear. 1 The wind 
 shifting to the southwest we held it close. 
 
 5th, Saturday. When day came, and it had cleared up 
 some, we saw at nine o'clock the tower of Schevclmgh, 
 directly east, or in front of us, and half an hour after- 
 wards that of Gravesend to the leeward, whereupon, we 
 were compelled to beat, in order to bring into the Maes, 
 which we continued to do the whole day till midnight, 
 hefore we reached Briel. Coming to the pier there, most 
 of the passengers left for Maassluis, so as not to wait, but 
 we could not do so on account of our goods. 
 
 6(h, Sunday. As soon as it was day we put our goods on 
 hoard the Rotterdam ferry-boat, which was to leave about 
 nine o'clock. In the meanwhile, we went to look about 
 the place, and in the church, where a Cocceian preaches. 
 After breakfast we went on board, but it was ten o'clock 
 hefore we got off. We had to beat as far as Schiedam, 
 
 1 The Rev. John Spademan, of Swayton, in Lincolnshire, was called to 
 the English Presbyterian church at Rotterdam, as successor to Mr. Maden, 
 ■who died in June, 1680. 
 
ROTTERDAM. THE HAGUE. AMSTERDAM. 425 
 
 where some royal yachts were lying, which had sailed with 
 us from Gravesend, and had brought over the Prince 
 Palatine, who had gone on to the Hague. We were de- 
 layed somewhat here, in consequence of transferring some 
 persons into another boat. We reached Rotterdam about 
 two o'clock, and were informed that no boat carrying goods 
 left for Amsterdam on Sundays ; but that one left Delft 
 at six o'clock, and we had time enough to go there. We 
 left our goods on board the treck-schuit, for Delft, and 
 started at three o'clock for that city, where we arrived at 
 five, and learned we had been misinformed, and the boat 
 from Delft to Amsterdam, left daily at four o'clock. We 
 had to go and lodge in a tavern for twenty-four hours. 
 We went to church. 
 
 1th, Monday. In order not to be all day at Delft, we 
 walked on to the Hague, and passed by the house of my 
 sister d' Owerk. I asked my comrade whether I should 
 not inquire after our friends, and if perchance any of them 
 were at the Hague ; but he would not consent. We re- 
 turned to Delft at two o'clock, and after dinner left at four 
 for Amsterdam. 
 
 8th, Tuesday. Having passed through the night as best 
 we could, we arrived at five o'clock in the morning before 
 the gate of Amsterdam, which was opened at six, and we 
 were admitted. We went close by the house of M. Bar- 
 dewits, 1 where I was again inclined to go in, but my com- 
 rade not approving of it at the Hague, I abandoned the 
 
 1 Of this person, we find the following mention by Jacobus Koelman. 
 Before de Labadie left Amsterdam for Herford, " he persuaded a merchant at 
 Amsterdam, who had heard him much, and had been his interpreter, to 
 preach or lecture to three hundred, he said, in his own house, after the 
 manner of the Christians in the church at Corinth, 1 Cor., xiv. This man 
 having no mission or calling to the ministry, was nevertheless to proclaim 
 the word in his house to those who might withdraw from the church but 
 did not go away with Labadie. And so to this day, such meetings of the 
 
 54 
 
426 BOSTON, AND THE VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 idea. We put up at the inn where we lodged before our 
 departure, and had our goods7)rought there, paying five shil- 
 lings freight for our goods alone. We separated in order to 
 do our business as speedily as possible. I went to deliver 
 all the letter*, and my comrade to sell the amber. We 
 met on the Exchange at noon. -When I had delivered my 
 •letters, I went to the boat for Sneek, 1 to inquire how it 
 was at the house, 2 and when she would sail. They would 
 leave on Thursday evening ; and all went well at the house 
 as far as they knew. My comrade who had also made in- 
 quiries, brought the same word. He told me also how he 
 had succeeded with the amber; that it was all spurious, 
 and was worth nothing. He, therefore, bad determined 
 to send it back again just as we had received it. We went 
 in the afternoon to perform some errands for the woman 
 with whom we had lodged at tfew York, delivering two 
 beaver skins to her husband's daughter. And with this 
 we consumed the day. 
 
 9th, Wednesday. This was a day of public prayer. We 
 had nothing more to do except to buy a large Bible for 
 Mr. Ephraim Hermans, according to our promise, with his 
 spermaceti, which we did. It cost us twenty-eight guild- 
 ers, because it was the last one of Kavesteyn's edition. 
 There was a new edition in press at the Fish Market, at 
 the place where we bought this one, upon the point of the 
 gate as you go to the Post office. We put it on board of 
 the ship of which Jan Gorter was captain and which would 
 
 separatists are held in the house of this merchant, named Bardewiis M ho 
 not pretending to be a minister, nor daring to administer the sacraments 
 of bapt.sm and the Lord's supper, every Sunday morning and afternoon 
 preaches after the manner of the public ministers, to a number of persons 
 who seldom, or ever go to the public assemblies, as if he only had <df ts 
 and grace."— Ektoimh Verhaal, 96-7. 
 
 1 In Friesland near Wiewerd. 
 
 2 Thetinga-State, or Walta House, the residence of the community. 
 
ARRIVAL HOME AT WIEWERD. 
 
 427 
 
 leave in a month's time, and addressed it to Mr. Arnout 
 de la Grange, to whom we also sent the amber with 
 directions what to do with them. My comrade wrote to 
 Ephraim, and also to Annetie Versluis. 
 
 10//i, Thursday. "We had our goods in good ■ time in the 
 boat. My comrade had also a basket with distilling 
 glasses (retorts) in it, which he had bought. I went to 
 Joannis Van Ceulen, mathematician, who had made a new 
 sea-atlas, a copy of which he had sent to the king of Eng- 
 land, and also to the king of France. It is a beautiful 
 work ; but he was surprised, after having corrected it so 
 much as he had, that I should point out to him several 
 errors. I endeavored to obtain a chart of Maryland, from 
 Augustine Herman's draught, but could not find it here ; 
 nor could I in England. At four o'clock we went on board 
 of tbe boat. The wind was light and contrary, so we only 
 drifted along. It was good weather. Our hearts gave 
 thanks to God when we reflected through what ways he 
 had conducted us, and how fatherly he had preserved us, 
 and brought us here. There sprung up a breeze in the 
 night, so that, 
 
 ll^A, Friday, in the morning, we passed by Urk, 1 and 
 arrived at the Lemmer, -where our goods were examined; 
 but we had nothing to pay, and went on. It was so calm, 
 with the wind contrary, that it was midnight before we 
 arrived at Sneek. It was very dark and rainy, and w© 
 were fearful we could not find the way, else we would* 
 have gone to The House in the night. 
 
 12th, Saturday. Having given directions to our skipper, 
 how he should send our goods after us, and having paid 
 him, we went to speak to the boatman, who was to take 
 the goods. It was about seven or half-past seven o'clock 
 when we left Sneek on foot. After going some distance 
 
 1 A small island in the Zuidcr zee, near the shore of Friesland. 
 
428 
 
 BOSTON, AND TI1E VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 on our way, we passed through Bosum ; and about ten 
 o'clock reached our house, where all arms and hearts were 
 open to receive us, which they did with affection and tender- 
 ness, in the love of the Lord, who had been with those who 
 had remained at home, and us who had traveled, all now 
 brought together, and united by his mercy. To him be 
 the power, and wisdom, and honor, and glory to all 
 eternity. Amen. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
INDEX 
 
 AaRSSENS, Cornelius van, of 
 Sommelsdyk, governor of Suri- 
 nam, xxvii, xxix. 
 
 Aarssens, van," of Sommelsdyk, three 
 sisters join the Labadists, xxvii, 
 xlv. 
 
 Aarssens, van, of Sommelsdyk, Lu- 
 cia, xxix. 
 
 Achter kol, East Jersey, origin of 
 the name, 147 ; visit to, 264 ; pro- 
 clamation against its government, 
 277 ; Governor Carteret abducted 
 from, 348. 
 
 Adams, Richard, planter in Mary- 
 land, 197, 203. 
 
 Aertsen, or Arison de Hart, Simon, 
 farmer at Gouanes, visits to, 122, 
 140, 264, 273, 336. 
 
 Albany, tax on goods going to, 263 ; 
 fare from New York, 285 ; called 
 the Fuyck, 297, 319 ; description of, 
 320. 
 
 Aldrichs, Peter, of New Castle, on 
 the Delaware, 181, 188, 233, 235. 
 
 Altona in Holstein, residence of the 
 Labadists, xxvi. 
 
 Ambergris, spurious, 336, 361, 426. 
 
 Amboy, on the Raritan, description 
 of, 252. 
 
 Amsterdam, in Holland, de Labadie 
 in, xvii, xxiii; the journalist in, 4, 
 425. 
 
 Andros, Sir Edmund, Governor of 
 New York, a papist, xxxi ; visits 
 Pemequid.lll ; conversations with, 
 258,281,384, 336, 344; entertains 
 the governor of Hartford, 283 ; 
 proceedings against Governor Car- 
 teret, 261, 277, 346 ; arbitrary acts 
 of, 353-8 ; a retail trader in New 
 York, 353; his character, 359; 
 charges against, 380. 
 
 Ann, cape, Massachusetts, 377. 
 
 Anthony's Nose, in the Highlands of 
 the North river, 330. 
 
 Apoquinimink, on the Delaware, 
 190, 226, 212. 
 
 Aquakenonk, New Jersey, 159, 264, 
 269. 
 
 Apples, 121, 156; called the double 
 
 paradise, 157. 
 Armenians, doctrines of the, ix. 
 Augustine, residence of Casparus 
 
 Heermans, on the Delaware, 192, 
 
 213. 
 
 BaNC au vert, shoals of, 398. 
 
 Barclay, Robert, the famous quaker, 
 visits de Labadie, xxv. 
 
 Bardewitz, a preacher of Labadism 
 in Amsterdam, 6, 425. 
 
 Barents, or Barn islands, in the East 
 river, 135. 
 
 Barent, a guide, 235. 
 
 Beeren,or Barren island, adjacent to 
 Long Island, 119. 
 
 Barkelo, Herman van, Labadist of 
 the colony in Maryland, xiv. 
 
 Barro, the little, in the North At- 
 lantic, 405. 
 
 Bayard, Peter, of New York, xxxiii ; 
 joins the Labadists, xxxix ; a 
 deacon in the Dutch church, 343. 
 
 Bayard, Samuel, of Bohemia Manor, 
 xiv. 
 
 Bay, the, now Flatlands, 129. 
 Beaver skins, value of, 285. 
 Beaver flesh, tiresome, 308. 
 Bergen, village of, 155; church at, 
 
 157 ; its farms, 158. 
 Berkeley, Lord, his grant of West 
 
 Jersey, to Mr. Billinge, 241-2. 
 Bermuda, island of, its storms and 
 
 spectres, 73; description of, 74; 
 
 hurricane near, 74. 
 Berry, Capt., his house on the Pas- 
 saic river, 266. 
 Bestek, a table in navigation, 62. 
 Bevesier, or Beachy Head, on the 
 
 southern coast of England, 21. 
 Bible, the Indian, by Rev. John 
 
 Eliot, 382-3. 
 Blind staggers, cure for, 264. 
 Block island, 376. 
 
430 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Boehme, Jacob, the German theoso- 
 phist, 12. 
 
 Boeyer, Jan, of Newcastle on the 
 Delaware, 22'). 
 
 Bohemia Manor, in Maryland, ex- 
 tent of, xxxi; visit to, 194; en- 
 tailed, 22'), 339. 
 
 Bolsward, in Friesland, 3. 
 
 Bon, Capt. Andre\ of New York, 118. 
 
 Boston, embarcation for, 309; harbor 
 of, 377; fast day in, 380; fire in, 
 387; sham battle in, 889; French 
 protectants in, 800: free trade in, 
 303; description of, 304; witch- 
 craft in, 410. 
 
 Bosum, in Friesland, 428. 
 
 Botcrberg, on the North river, 331. 
 
 Bouchell, Peter, son-in-law of Peter 
 
 Sluvtcr, xlvi. 
 
 Bonwery, village of the, 137. 
 
 Bowman. Mr., of Gravesend, Long 
 Island, 132. 
 
 Bownas, Samuel, his account of the 
 Labadists in Maryland, xli, xlv. 
 
 Bradslrccl, Simon, governor of Mas- 
 sachusetts, vi-it lo, 378. 
 
 Brake!, Theodorus, a-, a learned 
 Dutch divine, 134. 
 
 Brakel, Willem a-, a distinguished 
 Dutch divine, 134. 
 
 Brandy, importation of, prohibited, 
 808,868, 
 
 Brcukelen, village of, 120, 133. 
 
 Briel, 424. 
 
 Broadway, in New York, 113. 
 Bus, island of, in the North Atlantic, 
 404. 
 
 Byllinge, Edward, account of his 
 purchase of West Jersey, 241-2. 
 
 CaRTEBET, Capt James, ac- 
 count of, 137. 
 
 Carteret, Philip, governor of East 
 Jersey, 137-8, 254 ; his abduction 
 and trial, 346-352. 
 
 Catechising in New York, 134. 
 
 Cahoos falls, description of the, 290, 
 332. 
 
 Calvin, views of, in regard to church 
 and state, ix. 
 
 Cambridge, N. E., visit to, 384; 
 the college at, 384-5. 
 
 Canal between the Delaware and 
 Chesapeake, 209. 
 
 Canticoy, an Indian dance, 275. 
 
 Card playing on board ship, 403. 
 
 Carrying place between the Dela- 
 ware and Chesapeake, 210. 
 
 Catskil creek, 20G. 
 
 Catskil mountains, 323, 330. 
 
 Chaudronnier le, a settler on Staten 
 
 island, 14(5, 152. 
 Charles, the ship, 1, 4. 
 Charles II, king of England, riding 
 
 in St. James's park, 417-41K. 
 Chesapeake bay, 190, 200; Cheese 
 
 and Bread island, 223. 
 Child of Luxury, 321. 
 (.'hilling, a mode of discipline among 
 
 i In Labadists, xx.w ii. 
 Christina creek, 188; ride to, 223. 
 Christ ina, f, it, taken by Stuyvesant, 
 
 188. , 
 Claverack, on the North river, 323, 
 
 880. 
 
 Cocceians, origin of the, x. 
 
 Cod, cape, 372, 377. 
 
 Colony of Labadists in Maryland, 
 
 xxxi ; in Surinam. 
 Connncirvs, a planter in Maryland, 
 
 108, 201. 
 
 Oomniunipaw, or Ghmocnepaen, 
 
 155; described, 157, 258. 
 Coney island, description of, 118, 
 
 279. 
 
 Constable's hook, 204. 
 
 Corlaer's hook, 341, 374. 
 
 Cortelyou, Jacques, settler at Nyack, 
 120-7; owns land at Aquakeuonk, 
 159; visits to, 105, 207, 209,334. 
 
 Court of Friesland, tavern on Texel, 
 
 Coxsackie, on the North river, 331. 
 Qromroe Gouwe, Peconic bay, 
 Long Island, 375. 
 
 I3ANCING among the Labadists, 
 
 xxvi; 275. 
 Dankers, alias Schilders, Jasper, 
 
 writer of the journal, xxx ; makes 
 
 a second voyage to. New York, 
 
 xxxii ; a wine racker by trade, 
 
 200. ' 
 Danskamer in the Highlands of the 
 
 North river, 331,337. 
 David-.Iorists, or David-Georgians, 
 
 a religious sect in Holland, 360. 
 Deadnian's head, rock on the 
 
 southern coast of England, 24. 
 De Hart, Simon Arison,of Gowanes, 
 
 122, 140, 264, 273, 336. 
 Dekey, Thomas, 382, 386. 
 Delapleyne, Nicholas, of New York, 
 
 338. 
 
 Delaware, journey to the, 163 ; falls 
 of, 172; houses at, how built, 173; 
 description of the river, 237; its 
 discovery, 240; Stuyvesant's ex- 
 pedition to, 241 ; tax on merchan- 
 dise going to the, 263. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 431 
 
 Delft, in Holland, 425. 
 
 Dos Cartes, philosophy of, xi, xvi. 
 
 Dcnyse, Peter, weighmaster at New 
 
 York, 287. 
 Deutcl bay, Manhattan island, 257, 
 
 263. 
 
 Deventer, Henry van, xliv. 
 
 Dirck of Claverack, 323. 
 
 Dittelbach, Rev. Peter, becomes a 
 Labadist, xxviii ; his account of 
 the colony in Maryland, xxxv. 
 
 Doggerbank, the, 412. 
 
 Dolphin, one caught and described, 
 82. 
 
 Dolphin, ship, Capt. John Foy, 379. 
 Donderbergh in the Highlands of 
 
 the North river, 331. 
 Dort, decrees of the Synod of, x. 
 Dover, in England, 20. 
 Drunkenness amongst the Indians, 
 
 151, 274. 
 
 Ducat, a gold coin of Holland, 33. 
 Ducatoon, a silver coin of Holland, 
 33. 
 
 Ducks, wild, abundance of, in the 
 
 Chesapeake, 204, 208. 
 Dunwich on the eastern coast of 
 
 England, 415. 
 Duyckinck, Evert, mate of the 
 
 Charles, 19, 30, 103, 154, 125. 
 Duykcinck, Gerrit, glazier in New 
 
 York, 276, 324. 
 Duyne, Gerrit Cornelia van, 109, 160, 
 
 261, 269, 286, 334. 
 Dyer, Capt. William, collector of the 
 
 customs at New York, 284, 347, 
 
 352. 
 
 EdDYSTONE, the, reef on the 
 southern coast of England, 23. 
 
 Eliot, Rev. John, Apostle of the In- 
 dians, visits to, 382, 389. 
 
 Elizabeth, the princess, xxv. 
 
 Elizabeth islands, 370, 376. 
 
 Elizabethlown, New Jersey, 147. 
 
 Episcopal church-worship in New 
 York, 140, 148. 
 
 Esopus, or Hysopus, now Kingston 
 276, 281, 324; description of, 325. 
 
 Essenius, professor at Utrecht, xix. 
 
 Execution, public, in Maryland, 220. 
 
 Fairhill, near the Orkney is- 
 lands, 407. 
 
 Falmouth, in England, 24; its har- 
 bor, 26 ; cargo unladen there, 27 ; 
 Presbyterian church in, 32; de- 
 parture from, 40; description of, 
 44. 
 
 Farmers oppressed by Governor 
 Andros, 354. 
 
 Fasting and prayer, day of, in Bos- 
 ton, 380. 
 
 Fare and treatment on board ship, 
 104. 
 
 Fenwick, John, his proceedings in 
 West Jersey, 242-3. 
 
 Ferry between New York and Long 
 Island, 119, 133 ; over the Sassafras 
 river, Maryland, 196, 204. 
 
 First child born in New Netherland, 
 114, 117. 
 
 Fisher's island, 370, 376. 
 
 Fitie, of Comnnmipaw, 155. 
 
 Flatbush, 131, 133. 
 
 Flatlands, 129. 
 
 Flipse, see Philipse. 
 
 Flying fish, description of, 65-6. 
 
 Fore-ordination, a doctrine of the 
 Dutch reformed church, ix. 
 
 Fort Amsterdam at New York, 112. 
 
 Foy, Capt. John, of the Dolphin, 
 379, 416, 420. 
 
 Fransen Claes, the ferryman of Com- 
 nnmipaw, 156, 160-2'. 
 
 French ships on the banks, 4C0. 
 
 Fresh-kils on Staten island, 147. 
 
 Fresh-water, the New York, 136. 
 
 Frisby, Capt,, a planter in Mary- 
 land, 196, 208. 
 
 Fuyck, catching fish with a, 165 ; 
 Albany so called, 297. 
 
 GaESBECK, Domine, of Esopus, 
 
 a Cocceian, 111 ; his death, 276. 
 Galls, or Portuguese men of war, a 
 
 fishy substance, so called, 60. 
 Galper, the, a shoal in the English 
 
 channel, 20. 
 Gardiniere, Pierre le, a settler on 
 
 Staten island, 146 ; a son in New 
 
 York, 338. 
 Geese, wild, on the Chesapeake, 208. 
 Geresolveert, of New Harlem, 137, 
 
 139. 
 
 Godschalk, John, Van Schurman, 
 xvi. 
 
 Gomarists, a party in the Dutch 
 church, ix. 
 
 Gorter, Capt. Jan, 426. 
 
 Gouanes, a settlement on Long 
 Island, 120, 121, 261, 264. 
 
 Governor's island, in Boston har- 
 bor, 395. 
 
 Governor's (Noten) island, in New 
 York harbor, 112; first residences 
 of Europeans in New Netherland, 
 374. 
 
432 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Grange, Arnotit de la, merchant in 
 New York. 117, 188; his father 
 buys Tinicnm island, I?!). 
 
 Grapes, wild, 180, 180, 297. 
 
 Gravcscnd, on Long Island. 130. 
 
 Gravcscnd, in England, 4Hi. 
 
 Gravesend, in Holland, 424. 
 
 Greenland, Mr., of Pcscatteway, 
 170. J 
 
 Guttenburgh, fort New, remains of, 
 179. 
 
 1L 
 
 LACK IXC SACK river, ir,fl, 200. 
 Hague, the, 425. 
 
 Hans, au Indian guide, of Achter 
 kol, 204; his notions of the dciiv 
 207. " 
 
 Harlem, New, Manhattan island, 130. 
 
 Hartford, governor of, in New York, 
 283. 
 
 Harwich, England, 422. 
 
 Heermans, Augustine, his land in 
 Maryland, called Bohemia, xxxi, 
 xxxii, 194 ; makes a map of Man 
 land and Virginia, 194 ; sick, 190 ; 
 his will 225 ; notice of him, 23o| 
 note. 
 
 Heermans, Casparus, son of Au- 
 gustine, settled near New Castle, 
 190,212. 
 
 Heermans, Ephraim, joins the Laba- 
 dists, xxxiii, son of Augustine, 
 168 ; clerk of the courts on the 
 Delaware, 183; residence at New 
 Castle, 188; heir of Bohemia 
 Manor, 220, 230 ; promises to the 
 Labadists, 339. 
 
 Heermans, Miss Margaret, daughter 
 of Augustine, 188, 190, 232. 
 
 Helder, the, 12. 
 
 Hellgate, 135, 374. 
 
 Hendrick, Jacob, a settler near Bur- 
 lington, 174. 
 
 Hendrickson, Hendrick, a planter 
 in Maryland, 197. 
 
 Herford, in Westphalia, xxvi. 
 
 Hoerkil, the, on the Delaware, 219, 
 220. 
 
 Hoofden, the, or narrows, 98 ; v hy 
 so called, 118. 
 
 Hoogboom, Meus, skipper on the 
 North river, 285, 297. 
 
 Hoorn, a village on Texel, 9. 
 
 Hopkins, Mr., a planter in Mary- 
 land, 197. 
 
 Hosier, Mr., a planter in Maryland, 
 198, 201. 
 
 Howell, Mr., a planter in Maryland, 
 196. 
 
 Hoybergh, on the North river, 331. 
 Hurricane encountered, mar Ber- 
 muda, 74 ; damages from, 89. 
 
 IDEN8EN, Theunis, of Sapoka- 
 nikke, 287, 294, 887. 885; 
 
 Illetie, a Mohawk half breed, con- 
 verted to Christianity, 801 
 
 Independents, in New England, 393. 
 
 Indians, at Nyack, on Long Island, 
 98, 124; notions among, in rela- 
 tion to God, the oritrin of man 
 t-Vc, I 19, 207 : simplicity of one' 
 158-9; their opinion of the qua- 
 kers, 244 ; customs of some on 
 Millstone river, 247; their can- 
 ticoy atCouanes,273-5 ; at Aquak- 
 enonk, 209, 272; account of who 
 discovered the country, by Hans, 
 one of the, 273; drunkenness 
 amongst, 152, 274; small pox 
 amongst, 277 ; converts, 301-5. 
 Indian corn its production and use. 
 217. 
 
 Infanticide, an, in Maryland, 219. 
 
 ri ACOB, Skipper, 190, 255. 
 
 Jan, a baker, in New York, 202. 
 
 Jan, a passenger on board the 
 Charles, 11, 12, 24, 63. 
 
 Jaquet, M., of Christina creek, 188. 
 
 Jasper, an old Indian, a remarkable 
 character, 148. 
 
 Jesuits, in Maryland, 221 ; in Bos- 
 ton, 388. 
 
 Jochemseu, Capt. David, 115. 
 
 K EITII, George, visits the Laba- 
 dists, xxv. 
 Kicheron, the Indian's deity, 208. 
 Kieft, Governor, 113. 
 Kikebell, Thomas Davidsen, skip- 
 per, 295. 
 
 Kil von kol, west side of Staten 
 island, 118; origin of the name, 
 147. 
 
 Kinderhook, on the North river, 
 
 297, 319, 321. 
 Koch, Otto Ernest, proprietor of 
 Tinicum island, 180 ; Visit to, 182. 
 Koelman, Do. Jacobus, 134, 275. 
 Kok, or Cocceius, Johannes, his re- 
 ligious views, x. 
 Kolchman, Derick, of Bohemia, 
 
 Maryland, xlv. 
 Koning, Peter de, of Bohemia, Ma- 
 ryland, xlv. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 433 
 
 LaBADIE, Jean de, founder of 
 
 Labadism, account of, xii ; his 
 
 death, xlvii. 
 Labadists, origin and history of the, 
 
 xii ; colony of, in Surinam, xxix ; 
 
 in Maryland, xxxi. 
 La Grange, Arnout de, merchant in 
 
 New York, 117, 133. 
 Land, policy in regard to, in New 
 
 York, 357. 
 La Noy, Abraham de, schoolmaster 
 
 in New York, 134. 
 La Noy, Peter de, custom house 
 
 officer in New York, 115. 
 La Motte, Mons., buys Tinicum, 179. 
 Laws of New York in Dutch, 166. 
 Lawyer, a, in Maryland, 202. 
 Lightning, effects on three men 
 
 mowing, 391. 
 London, arrival in, 416. 
 Log houses of S-wedish origin, 175. 
 Longfield, or Langevelt, Cornelius 
 
 Van of Pescatteway, 249. 
 Long Island, description of, 118, 
 
 375. 
 
 Lorphelin, Peter, punished in Bos- 
 ton, 377-8. 
 Lucas, a Boston skipper, 380. 
 
 Man ,Mr., a planter on the Dela- 
 ware. 
 
 Manhatan island, description of, 135. 
 Maryland, colony of Labadists in, 
 
 description of, 194, 214, 221. 
 Matinekonk island, in the Delaware, 
 
 174. 
 
 Martha's Vineyard, 370, 376. 
 
 Marsbankers, 100, 145. 
 
 Marriage, the doctrines of the Laba- 
 dists concerning, xxvi, xxxvii, xi. 
 
 Maurice, an Irishman, in Maryland, 
 211. 
 
 Menades, 191. 
 
 Mennonists, their origin and doc- 
 trines, xlvii, note. 
 
 Menuret, a disciple of De Labadie, 
 xxiii. 
 
 Middelburgh, in Zeeland, de Laba- 
 die at, xvi. 
 
 Milford, or Newark, New Jersey, 
 266 ; in Connecticut, 370. 
 
 Militia training in New York, 344- 
 5; in Boston, 389. 
 
 Milk-ditch, Boston, 373, 395. 
 
 Mill creek, or Elizabeth creek, New 
 Jersey, 147, 168, 252. 
 
 Miller, Mr., a planter in Maryland, 
 198, 202. 
 
 55 
 
 Millstone river, New Jersey, 170, 
 245, 247, 251. 
 
 Ministers in Maryland and Virginia, 
 218; an Independent on board 
 ship, 397. 
 
 Mohawk river, the, 298, 332. 
 
 Moll, John, of New Castle, on the 
 Delaware, a Labadist, xxxiv, xlv; 
 visit to his plantation, 189, 191 ; 
 presiding judge of the courts, 222, 
 223-4; account of, 229, 340. 
 
 Monmouth, Duke of, his stables in 
 London, 417. 
 
 Montaigne, Nicholas de la, at Bohe- 
 mia Manor, xlv. 
 
 Mosquitos, 147. 
 
 Mouns, Mr., planter in Maryland, 
 196. 
 
 Mutton, price of, in New York, 157. 
 Muskrat described, 188. 
 
 Najack, or Nyack, Long Island, 
 124. 
 
 Nassau, a village began on the Rari- 
 tan, 250. 
 
 Nassau, fort, on the Delaware, 228. 
 
 Naze, on the coast of England, 422. 
 
 Negroes in New York, 136 ; in Ma- 
 ryland, 216. 
 
 Nevesink, 118, 171, 278. 
 
 Newcastle, on the Delaware, called 
 Sant hoek, 188 : delivered to Wm. 
 Penn, 189 ; description of, 227. 
 
 New Dorp, village on Staten island, 
 144. 
 
 New Guttenburgh, fort, remains of, 
 179. 
 
 New Harlem, village on Manhattan 
 island, 136. 
 
 New Utrecht, village of, 128. 
 
 New York, city of, Labadists in, 
 xxxii ; first view of, 99 ; descrip- 
 tion of, 135 ; the fresh water, 136 ; 
 negroes, 136 ; Bouwery village, 
 137; New Harlem, 137; Sapoka- 
 nikke, 139 ; Episcopal service in, 
 48, 284; Quaker meeting, 160; 
 Lutheran minister, 320; Dutch 
 reformed minister, 113 ; mer- 
 chants, 152 ; burgher right, 260 ; 
 commerce, 353. 
 
 Niewenhuisen, Rev. William, minis- 
 ter of Dutch reformed church, 
 New York, 111, 113, 160,258, 327, 
 337, 343. 
 
 Noormans kil, Catskil creek, 296, 
 297. 
 
 North river, description of the, 328. 
 Northwest kil, or Passaic river, 
 266. 
 
434 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Noten, or Nut island, Governor's 
 island, in New York harbor, the 
 first residence of the Dutch, 374. 
 
 OaTES, Titus, 20. 
 
 Observations on the voyage to New 
 
 York, 100. 
 Old Dorp, village on Staten island, 
 
 142-4. 
 Oostereind on Texel, 9. 
 Ooslercnd in Fricsland, 3. 
 Orange, Fort, Albanv, abandoned, 
 
 320. 
 
 Origin of the world and man accord- 
 ing to some Indians, 160-1, 260. 
 
 Orkney islands, 407. 
 
 Otto, a resident at Wicaco, 235. 
 
 Oude Schild, village on Texel, 7. 
 
 Ovins, John, surgeon on board 
 homeward ship, 370, 410,420. 
 
 Oysters, 123, 204, 295. 
 
 1 A DEC HAL, capt Of the Boston 
 packet, 340, 301, 309, 373. 378, 379. 
 
 Palisades, on the North river, 138-9. 
 
 Papegay, or Papegoia, Madam, 
 178-9. 
 
 Passage, price of, from Amsterdam 
 to New York, 1 ; trom Boston to 
 London, 380. 
 
 Passaic river, 260 ; falls of 270-1 , 
 
 332. 
 
 Passengers on the Charles, 103-4 ; 
 on the boat to Albany, 295 ; to 
 Boston, 369 ; on the voyage home, 
 390. 
 
 Pavonia, or Havcrstraw, 158. 
 Peaches, abundance of, 110, 120-1, 
 139 
 
 Pemequid, 111, 258, 324. 
 Pendennis castle, Falmouth, 26; 
 
 visit to, 31. 
 Penn, William, visits the Labadists, 
 
 xxv, xxvii ; New Castle delivered 
 
 to, 189. 
 
 Penryn, near Falmouth, England, 
 28, 45. 
 
 Pensees les, de Pascal, 166. 
 Peseatteway, village of, 170, 249, 
 250, 254. 
 
 Peters, Frederick, a settler near Al- 
 bany, 300. 
 
 Philipse, Annetje, daughter of Fre- 
 derick Philipse, 12, 85. 
 
 Philipse, Frederick, merchant of 
 New York, 258, 345, 353, 362. 
 
 Philipse, Margaret, wife of Frede- 
 rick, 1, 5, 12, 22, 37, 53, 62, 86, 100, 
 362. 
 
 Pidgeon, Mr. John, of Boston, 341, 
 
 379. 
 
 Pilots and pilotage in Holland, 17. 
 Pirates, fears of, 30, 41, 381, 408. 
 Pollepcl island, 331. 
 Poppe, Jean, of Flatlands, a retired 
 
 sea captain. 131. 
 Postage, in England, 29,30. 
 Prayers of New Englanders, 371, 
 
 373, 880, 381, 401. 
 Prayer of an Indian, 307, 806. 
 Print/dorp, Hie residence of Madam 
 
 Papegay at Upland, 183, 180. 
 Plum island, 375. 
 
 ( I T A KERS, visit de Labadie, xxv ; 
 similarity to the Labadists, xxv, 
 note; character of, 176; a pro- 
 phetess from Maryland, 182-3 ; 
 dispute between two females, 184 ; 
 settle in West Jersey, 241 ; opi- 
 nion concerning them by the In- 
 dians, 244 ; Robert Wade, of Up- 
 land, 183, 227, 235. 
 
 Quaker meeting in New York, 160 ; 
 at Burlington, 175 ; in London, 
 419. 
 
 ACOON, or hespaen meat, 156. 
 Raritan, the, 164, 280-1. 
 Reformed Dutch Church, conten- 
 tions in, xii. 
 Reinderman, Mr., 339. 
 Religion, decline of in Boston, 383. 
 Remarkable experiences, 337. 
 Rentselaer, Madam van, of Rentse- 
 
 laerswyck, visit to, 316. 
 Rentselaer's Hook, 96. 
 Rentselaerswyck, 281. 
 Rich, Captain, of the ship New 
 
 York, xxxii. 
 Rochefort. Rev. Charles de, convert 
 to Labadism, and afterwards ab- 
 jures it, xxiv. 
 Rochelle, deputation to Boston of 
 
 the protestants of, 390. 
 Rockol, a rock in the North Atlan- 
 tic, 404. 
 Rocky Hill, New Jersey, 171. 
 Rodenbergh, Elizabeth Van, wife of 
 Ephraim Heermans, 227,230,232, 
 262. 
 
 Rombouts, Francis, Mayor of New 
 York, interrogates the travelers, 
 
 259. 
 
 Ross, William, of Boston, 378. 
 Rotterdam, in Holland, 425. 
 Roxbury, visit to, 382 
 
INDEX. 
 
 435 
 
 SABBATH, controversy ill the 
 Dutch church concerning, xl. 
 
 Salsberry, Mr., a planter in Mary- 
 land, 197. 
 
 Salem, village of, in New Jersey, 
 228. 
 
 Salt meadow, or valey, 130. 
 Salters, Anna, a quakeress, 184. 
 Sandford, Capt.,of New Jersey, 266. 
 Sandv Hook, 90. 
 
 Sanders, Robert, of Albany, 297-8. 
 319, 379. 
 
 Sapokanikke, on Manhattan island, 
 
 139, 160, 329. 
 Sapaan, or hominy, 217. 
 Sassafras river, Maryland, 196, 224. 
 Schenectady, 281, 301, 311, 315. 
 Schaats, Do., of Albany, 111, 112, 
 
 317. 
 
 Schilders, Jaspar, pseudonym of 
 Dankers, the journalist, 1, 423. 
 See Dankers. 
 
 Scilly islands, 47. 
 
 Sea Mirror, a book of sea charts, 409. 
 Selyns, Rev. Henricus, minister at 
 
 New York, xxxii, 365. 
 Seven sons, curious law about, 358. 
 Servants sold, 191-2, 216. 
 Servaasz, Thomas, last Father of 
 
 the Labadists at Wiewerd, xliv ; 
 Seybry, Mr., planter in Maryland, 
 
 196. 
 
 Shelpot, or Schiltpadts kil, 187. 
 
 Shoemakers in New York oppress- 
 ed, 356-7. 
 
 Silver Poort-Klock, or Silver Gate- 
 bell, a book so called, 73. 
 
 Singleton, Thomas, captain of the 
 Charles, 1 ; his wife, 102-3. 
 
 Sketch of the Great Bay — Raritan 
 bay, 129. 
 
 Slangenbergh, or Snakes' hill, 126, 
 265. 
 
 Slaves prohibited to Labadists in 
 
 Maryland, xliii, 216. 
 Sluis Annetje, 361. 
 Sluyter, Hendrick, brother of Peter, 
 
 xxxi. 
 
 Sluyter, or Schluter, alias Vorsman, 
 Peter, one of the travelers, xxx ; 
 self-styled bishop of the colony of 
 Labadists in Maryland, xxxv; 
 death and will, xxxv ; a theolo- 
 gian, 260. 
 
 Sluyter, Johannes, xlvi. 
 
 Sluyter, Elizabeth, sister of Peter, 
 xxxi. 
 
 Smoker's hook, on Kil achter kol, 
 
 169, 252. 
 Sneek city, in Friesland, 427. 
 
 Snakes' hill, or the Slangenbergh, 
 156, 265. 
 
 Sow and Pigs, rocks, 276. 
 
 Sommelsdyk, the sisters, xxvii. 
 
 Southwold, Engl md, 413. 
 
 Spanish discoverers in New Nether- 
 land, 273, 318. 
 
 Spytendevil creek, 135, 138-9. 
 
 Stabley, Mr., planter in Maryland, 
 204. 
 
 Staten island, visit to and descrip- 
 tion, 140-148. 
 St. Catharine's, London, 416. 
 St. James's Park, London, 417. 
 St. Kilda, 405. 
 
 St. Mawes' castle, Falmouth, 26. 
 
 St. Peter's, at the mouth of the 
 Thames, 416. 
 
 Stoothoff, Elbert Elbersen, of Flat- 
 lands, 33, note, 119, 333. 
 
 Surinam, colony of Labadists in, 
 xxix. 
 
 Suspicions concerning the travelers, 
 
 17, 359, 387. 
 Swadelrack, on the North river, 331. 
 Swart, Jacob, of New York, 110, 
 
 286. 
 
 Swedes and Fins, character of, 227. 
 
 1 ACONY, Swedish village on the 
 
 Delaware, 177, 235. 
 Tapoesie, Mr., miller near Christina 
 
 creek, 187. 
 Taylor, John, merchant of Boston, 
 
 378, 379, 386, 391. 
 Tessemaker, Rev. Peter, proponent, 
 
 111, 142 ; at Bergen, 160 ; at New 
 
 Castle, 190 ; his preaching, 222. 
 Texel, island of, 8, 12 ; description, 
 
 15, 16. 
 
 Thetinga-State, house of the Laba- 
 dists at Wiewerd, xxvii, 426. 
 
 Theunissen van Dykhuis, Jan, of 
 Flatlands, a passenger in the 
 Charles, 33, 120, 129, 131, 334. 
 
 Thomas, baker in New York, 249, 
 250. 
 
 Tinicum island, 177, 182. 
 
 Tobacco, culture of, prohibited to 
 
 the Labadists, xxxi ; staple of 
 
 trade in New York, xxxi, 261 ; 
 
 extent of, in Maryland, 216 ; tax 
 
 on, 218. 
 
 Trico, Catalina, of the Walebocht, 
 342. 
 
 UPLAND, now Chester, Swedish 
 village on the Delaware, 183, 228, 
 234. 
 
 Urk, island in the Zuyder zee, 427. 
 
436 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 VaLEXTYNE, Mr., a settler at 
 
 Spytendevil, 189. 
 Valey, or v'ly, description of, 180. 
 Van Aarssens, van Sommelsdyk, 
 
 see Aarssens. 
 Van Burgh, Madam, of Pcscatteway, 
 
 170. 
 
 Van Ceulen, Joannis, of Amster- 
 dam, 427. 
 
 Van Duyne, Gerrit Cornelis, of 
 Long Island, a passenger on the 
 Charles, 10!), 100, 201, 20!), 2*0, 
 334. 
 
 Van J Iel m on I , Jean Baptiste, his 
 
 hook on medicine, 170. 
 Van Kleif, Cornelis, of New York, 
 
 282. 
 
 Van Kcntschier, Madam, visit to at 
 Rentselaerswyck, 310, 355. 
 
 Van Schurman, Anna Maria, fol- 
 lower of de Labadic, xvi, xxviii ; 
 death of, xlv. 
 
 Van Schurman, Jolin Godschalk, 
 xvi. 
 
 Van Waert, Mr., planter in Mary- 
 land, 195. 
 
 Y;in Ziircn. Kev. Casparus, of Long 
 Island, 111, 129, 334. 
 
 Vecre, in Zeeland, temporary resi- 
 dence of de Labadie, xxl. 
 
 Vign6, Jean, first born child of 
 European parents in New Nether- 
 land, 114, 117. 
 
 Vlieter, shoals in the Zuyder zee, 7. 
 
 Voet, or Voetius, Gysbert, his reli- 
 gious views, xl. 
 
 Vorstman, or Vorsman, Peter, pseu- 
 donym of Sluyter, one of the tra- 
 velers, xlvi ; 1, 423. See Sluyter. 
 
 Vroonian, Adam, of Schenectady, 
 312, 310. 
 
 WaDE, Robert, quaker of Up- 
 land, 183, 227, 235. 
 Walebocht, Long Island, 341, 374. 
 
 Walloons, on Long Island, 121. 
 Walta-IIouse, xxviii, 420. 
 Wapping's kil, 337. 
 W ar. Indian, at Esopus, 325. 
 Watermelons, new ground lor. 336. 
 Webblingh, Mr., settler at Spyten- 
 
 devil, 13!). 
 Weevil, ravages of the, 219. 
 \Yi >i (iiiiistcr, London, 418. 
 West hook, Staten island, 145. 
 Wheat on the North river, 315. 
 Whitehall, in London, 417. 
 Wicaco, Swedish village on the 
 
 Delaware, 234. 
 Wiewerd, in Friesland, xii, xxvii, 
 
 xiv. 
 
 Wight, arrival at the isle of, 22. 
 Wild, the people of the country are, 
 
 in. 
 
 Witchcraft in Boston, 419. 
 Witsius, professor at Franeker, 
 xxviii. 
 
 Woodbridire, village of, Xew Jersey, 
 169, 254. 
 
 Wooley, Rev. Charles, episcopal 
 minister at Xew York, 148 
 
 Wouter, a Mohawk Indian, his con- 
 version to Christianity, 305, 307, 
 310, 341, 379. 
 
 YARMOUTH, on the eastern coast 
 of England, 414. 
 
 York, Duke of, arms of, over Fort 
 Amsterdam, 118; his enfeoffment 
 to William Penn of Xew Castle, 
 189, note; his grants of New 
 Jersey, to Lords Carteret and 
 Berkeley, 241, 350, note; escorts 
 the Prince Palatine in the streets 
 of London, 426. 
 
 Yvon, Pierre, a disciple of de Laba- 
 die, xvi, xxiii, and his successor, 
 xxvii; death, xlv. 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 PLATE I. — FISHES, INDIAN WOMAN. 
 Translation of the memorandum at the top of this plate. " Although the 
 Banks of Newfoundland are represented on the increasing degree chart, 
 where the shoals are, yet it is probable they are larger, at least towards the 
 south, as the water indicates even as far as 38° or 37° ; and also that there are 
 several smaller shoals which lie deeper and which are not represented on 
 the chart." 
 
 The uppermost fish (mentioned p. 69, of the journal) is most probably 
 the Gempylus serpens, first figured in Sloanes's Jamaica, plate 1, fig. 2, and 
 to which the name of Scomber serpens, was given by Dr. Solander, who 
 captured one three feet long in Sept., 1768, near the Canary islands. His 
 description, stiU in manuscript, in the Banks Library, is quoted by Cuvier, 
 Histoire des Poissons, vol. viii, p. 211, where another species is also 
 described, from the Pacific. It is a rare fish, and it seems that no specimen 
 of it is preserved in museums. 
 
 Another rare fish somewhat resembles this one, the Alepidosaurus ferox, 
 first described and figured by the Rev. R. T. Lowe in the Proceedings and 
 Transactions of the Zoological Society of London, in 1833, as from the 
 Atlantic near Madeira. The first mentioned species has the finlets in 
 advance of the tail, as represented in the figure, which this last has not. 
 The faint indication of ventral fins in the figure would however make it 
 an Alepidosaurus, but the long anal and the finlets are more like Gempylus. 
 
 The middle figure of this plate, marked Dolphyn, is the common 
 dolphin of the Atlantic, the Coryphaena hippurus, of Linnaeus. In the 
 text, mention is made of these fish on pages 81, 82, 83, 85 and 86. 
 
 The lowest figure marked Pici porch, is the Pig fish or Trigger fish, the 
 Batistes vetula, or perhaps the Gapriscus, of Linnaeus ; a well known fish, 
 about a foot long, found in the banks of floating sea weed, with a hard 
 scaly skin, and with two spines on the back, a peculiarity in the articula- 
 tion of which, gives the fish its name of Balistes. The longer forward 
 spine, namely, A, cannot be depressed until the small hinder one B has 
 been pushed down. This rigid defensive weapon, no doubt, prevents 
 56 
 
438 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 larger fi9b from swallowing it. This curious property of these spines is 
 described on the plate as follows: "Caught in latitude '61°, 240 miles 
 east of Maryland. The horns A and B can he laid flat on the back to C, 
 where there is a hollow in the back in which the horns are placed ; but 
 they cannot be raised up more than is denoted in the figure. Whenever 
 they stand up in that manner they cannot be pressed down at A, unless B 
 be pushed down to C, when A falls as far as B is pressed down ; like the 
 lock of a gun or a fire-lock when it is shot ofl." 
 
 Several other fish arc mentioned in the narrative. The one described as 
 a Seacat, page (W, was probably a small BlennitiH ; the large Seapilce, page 
 71, was perhaps a Sword fish, the Xiphinn tjladittH of Linnams, and the 
 one described as a Sea hedge hog, page 91, was either an Antennarius, or a 
 Multhcu, both of which have something like the limbs or paws of a quad- 
 ruped. The other lish mentioned are too common to require further notice. 
 
 II — VIEW OF THE ENTRANCE AT SANDY HOOK FROM 
 FORT HAMILTON. 
 
 Mentioned on page 129 of the journal. The following is a translation 
 of the note : 
 
 " Views of the land on the southerly and southwesterly sides of the 
 great bay between the Neversincks and Long Island, 24 miles from New 
 York. 
 
 " A. Coney island. B. The gate [or opening] to enter. C. Sandy hook. 
 D. Rensselaer's hook, [now the Neversink highlands.] E. Some trees 
 serving as a land mark, [probably on a line with Pigeon hill.] 
 
 " In order to sail in between the shoals, keep S. S. W. from them, [that is, 
 close to the Hook.] D. E. F. The land called the Neversinckx. F. Kil 
 van kol. 
 
 " All as it appears from Jacques [Cortelyou's] house at Najak [Fort 
 Hamilton] on Long Island." 
 
 The bank drawn on the right is the West bank. Porpoises are still com- 
 mon in the bay, but whales, at that time frequently captured along our 
 coast, are now rarely seen. 
 
 HI.— VIEW OF NEW YORK FROM THE SOUTH-EAST. 
 
 This view, taken from Brooklyn heights, will prove exceedingly interest- 
 ing to the local antiquarians of New York, from the number of details 
 which are given of the city as it was in 1679. The draughtsman has tried 
 to copy what he saw, with minute accuracy and without the least attempt 
 to produce any effect. The city was at this time just beginning to creep 
 beyond the palisades on Wall street, which for fifty years had bounded it on 
 the north. It is unnecessary here to describe the different details repre- 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 439 
 
 sented, which, no doubt, will be studied and compared with other views 
 and with plans and documents of the period. We merely draw attention 
 to the accuracy of the view as proved by the fact that one block, the left 
 hand one in the view, with thirteen houses, corresponds precisely with the 
 plan given in Valentine's Manual of the Corporation of Neio York, which 
 shows fourteen lots on the same block, fronting on Pearl street or the 
 Ecere graft. The middle bouse in the view occupies two of these lots, 
 testing therefore the precision of the drawing. The fort with its church, 
 the dock, the Stadthuys, the halfmoon forts, the guard bouse at the water 
 gate, foot of Wall street, the ship yards, and the windmills on the hill near 
 the corner of the present Fulton street and Broadway, are all to be seen in 
 this curious sketch. From it an enlarged view of the Stadthuys, once the 
 city tavern, has been made, and is given on plate VIII. 
 
 IV. — VIEW OF NEW YORK FROM THE EAST. 
 
 This, view looking along the shore of the East river, appears to have been 
 taken from a point near the corner of the present Fulton and Water 
 streets. It shows the nortli side of the dock, the water gate from the 
 north, and the shipping. The church and Stadthuys are not distinctly 
 seen, as the sketch was probably taken from near the water level. A por- 
 tion of this sketch has been used in compiling the view on plate IX. 
 
 V— VIEW OF NEW YORK FROM THE NORTH. 
 
 This was probably taken from two points, in order to show as much as 
 possible of the south end of the island and of the North river. This has 
 caused some confusion in the perspective and in the line of horizon, which 
 is sought to be rectified in the compiled sketch on plate VII. 
 
 It appears to have been taken in part from near the head of the present 
 John or perhaps Fulton street. The buildings near the Bowling green 
 north of the fort, are hidden by the fall of the land there towards the Bat- 
 tery, and but little is seen of the main portion of the city along the East 
 river from a similar reason, the slope towards the river. Broadway is a 
 mere country road with fields open to the North river on the right, and 
 but few houses on its east side. 
 
 One of the windmills was put up before 16G4, and the other (the upper 
 one), shortly after the transfer of the colony to the English. . 
 
 The wagon appears to be turning down the Magdje Pad or Maiden Lane. 
 
 This is the only view of New York on the North river side at this early 
 period, known to us, except that in Hartger and Vanderdonk. 
 
 VI.— MAP OF THE SOUTH OR DELAWARE RIVER FROM 
 THE FALLS TO BURLINGTON. 
 
 From a plan accompanying the manuscript. It is mentioned at page 
 255 of the journal. 
 
440 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 The preceding plates are in fat simile of the original drawings accom- 
 panying the manuscript. The following are new drawings, rectifying some 
 portions of them ; except the last, which is a view of the present appear- 
 ance of the De Hart house at Gouanes, where the travelers were enter- 
 tained and the Indians held their cantecoy. See pages 122, 204, 273 of the 
 journal. 
 
 VII.— VIEW OF NEW YORK FROM TIIE NORTH. 
 Restored from the original sketch on plate V. 
 
 VIII.— TIIE STADTnUYS OF NEW YORK IN 1679. 
 
 Corner of Pearl SI. and Coentys Slip. 
 
 This has been taken from the original sketch on plate III. It corrects 
 in some points the appearance of this building, as given in Valentine's 
 Manual of the Corporation and presents a life-like picture of the north- 
 west portion of the oily dock and its surroundings, all the material for 
 which is to be found in the above mentioned sketch. 
 
 Erected as a city tavern in 1042, it was converted to the purposes of a City 
 Hall in 1606, and was finally torn down in 1700. The small half moon 
 fort in front of it once projected out into the river. 
 
 IX.— NORTH VIEW OF THE DOCK, NEW YORK, 1679. 
 Being a part of the original sketch No. IV. 
 
 X.-THE WATER GATE, FOOT OF WALL ST., NEW YORK, 1679. 
 Also from the original sketch, No. IV. 
 
 XL— THE EAST RIVER SHORE NORTH OF THE WATER GATE, 
 
 NEW YORK, 1679. 
 Taken from sketches Nos. Ill and IV. 
 
 Xn.— THE DE HART HOUSE, ON GOUANES BAY. 
 As it appears in 1867. 
 
 VIEWS MENTIONED IN THE TEXT BUT NOT FOUND ACCOM- 
 PANYING THE MANUSCRIPT. 
 
 Page 178 — View at Tinicum island. 
 
 " 193 — View near New Castle, Delaware. 
 
 " 193 — View at the head of (navigation ot) the Delaware. 
 
 " 197 — View of Passaic Falls. 
 
 VIEWS OMITTED. 
 
 Page 299 — Cohoes falls. 
 " 333 — Catskill mountains. 
 
I 
 
 Mayo/}'- **> 27r*v Netkjr.rlevrixtij 
 
pj.rv 
 
 VIBW OK NKW YORK WHOM THE NORTH, 1670. ttorlnukty Gj&ywrt *c /rmartjm. 
 
VIEW OF JNJiWYORK PROM THE NORTH 
 
THE DELAWARE RIVER FROM THE FALLS AT BURLINGTON. 167$. 
 
n viii 
 
VIEW OF NEW YORK FROM THE NORTH; 1679 
 
PI. XII. 
 
 VIEW OF THE HOUSE OF SlMON AEB.T.' 
 
 still standing" on Gowati^r Eav in '.