Columbia ®nit)er^ttp THE LIBRARIES MEMOIRS OF THE BAROMSS D'OBEMIRCH, COUNTESS DE MONTBRISON. WRITTEN BY HERSELF, AND EDITED BY HER GRANDSON, THE COUNT DE MONTBRISON. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: COLBURN AND CO., PUBLISHEES, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1852. The Count de Montbrison hereby notifies that he reserves the right of Translating this Work in France. C ** LONDON : PRINTED BY SCHULZE AND CO., 13 POLAND STREET. fl Oh 2- 2_ I CONTENTS OF VOLUME I Chapter I. Page Introduction — My birth — My grandfathers and grand- mothers — Malhause — My father — My mother dies young — My uncles — The Bouillon regiment — King Dagobert — The castle of Schweighausen — My edu- cation — My godmother — The Waldners — The Berekheim — The Glaubitz — Montbehard — Arrival of the Prince Eugene 1 Chapter II. The Baron Waldner at Paris — Presentation at Ver- sailles — The prince of Montbeliard and his family — Description of his mother, princess of La Tour and Taxis — First visit — The castle of Montbeliard — Princess Dorothea of Wurtemberg — Mdlle. Schnei- der, my waiting-maid — Madame Hendel, femme- de-charge at Montbeliard — Baron Maucler — Birth of a prince — Erection of the chateau of Etupes — Visit of the reigning duke — Some account of this prince — Negotiation for his marriage — Extrava- gances ; the States remonstrate — The duke is affianced — Countess Hohenheim — Prince Louis Eugene — Three brothers called Eugene, and why . 20 VOL. L b U^J 1' V IV CONTENTS. Chapter III. Page The daupliiness at Strasburg — Etiquette observed towards foreign princes — Entree of Marie Antoi- nette — Rejoicings and presentations — Description of the dauphiness — Pavihon in the Isle du Rhin — Disagreeable prognostic — Happy saying of the dauphiness — Rejoicings at Montbehard — The baron and baroness Boreck — Countess Wartens- leben — BUnd-man^s Buff — Audience of the prince ; grievances — Princess Dorothea of Wurtemberg — Her affection for me — Her mother's confidence in me — Soubriquets — Milord Carcasso — Origin of ' Lane ' — Birth of a prince — Gardens at Etupes — M. Tronchin — Antiquities of Mondau — The hermit — The page — Surprise — Government of Mont- behard — Theatrical representations at Etupes — M. de Beroldingen — The prince of Murbach — Vis- count Bombelles — Marriage of a Catholic and Protestant null — Duchess Mazarin — Discussions — M. de Wittgenstein— Baron Reinbach — General Strahlenheim — Baron Obenheim — General Wan- gen — Order of military merit — Jews — Ollwillon — Count Waldner, first grand cross — Birth of Prince Frederic— Bull of Clement XIV. — Death of Louis XV. — Poufs au sentiraent — Margrave of Bareith and Mdlle. Clairon — Accidental death of duke de Deux-Ponts — Duel of Bai^on Pirch . . 38 Chapter IV. Strasburg — Duke d'AiguiUon, Marshal Contades, Baron Lort, M. de Marzy - Madame Berekheim — M. de Dietrich — M. and Madame Franck — Luxury of Prince Heyderscheim — Chapter of Ollmarsheim — Mademoiselle de Flachsland — Fashionable colours — Lavater's letter — I send him my sil- CONTENTS. Page houette — Consecration of the bishop of Basle — Hereditary charge of Rothberg — House of Wangen — M. Gothe writes to me — Strange letter from M. Lavater — My marriage — Baron Oberkirch — Messrs. de Wurmser — I write to Princess Doro- thea — Conversation with my father — Interview — Kindness of the princes of Wurtemberg — The wedding day — M. de Turckheim — The dowager baroness Oberkirch, nee de Buch — Another letter from M. Lavater — Marriage of Princess Dorothea — Negotiation of Prince Henry of Prussia — His con- nection with Catherine II — The G rand-duke Paul Petrowitz sets out for Berlin — Departure of the princess — Sad adieus — She writes to me the day of her interview with the prince — Her letter — She is re-baptized and called Mary Foederowna — Nuptials — Another letter from the grand-duchess — She sets out for St. Petersburg — She writes again to me — Charming letter — Return of her parents to Montbeliard — Touching episode — Letter of M. Wieland 73 Chapter V. Birth of my daughter — Her illustrious godfathers and godmothers — Disappointment of M. d' Ober- kirch — Letter from the grand-duchess of Russia — Another letter from her — The Emperor Joseph II. at Stuttgard — Jest of Duke Charles— Naivete of the marshal of the Court — Fief of Falkenstein — The postilion prince — Joseph II. at Strasburg — M. de Vogn6 — Description of the emperor — His dress — Ma.rket-woman — Verses — Disappointment of Voltaire — The executioner of Colmar — Gag — Execution — Mademoiselle Heizelberg, a singer — Eirth of Alexander Paulowitz .... 109 VI CONTENTS. Chapter VI. The new Hotel de Ville at Montbeliard — Les Beueries — Count Wurmser in Austria — Ambassador to the — Grand-duke of Eussia — Letter of Paul Petrowitz — Adventure of the Baroness Hahn — Prince Louis de Eohan — Birth of Constantine Paulo^\dtz — Ma- dame Schack — Marriage of Prince Nassau Saar- bruck — The comte of Saarbruck — Verses— M. de Dietrich — Rejoicings at the chateau of Eeishoflfen — The strange husband ..... 142 Chapter VII. The commander made marechal-de-camp — The court at Montbeliard in mourning — Anger of Madame Hendel — Letter from Her Imperial Highness Mary — Madame Beckendorf — Caghostro at Strasburg — Visit to Cardinal Rohan — Saverne — Its magnifi- cence — Obelisk raised to Turenne— Caghostro is announced — His reception — Charlatanism — His influence on me — Predictions — Death of Maria Theresa — Her courage — Verses — Departure for Montbehard — M. de Waugens and M, de Witting- hoff — Death of Doctor Bernouille — Marriage of Princess Frederica — The coadjutor prince of Lu- beck — City and chapter of Lubeck — Titles of the prince — Arrival of the emperor at Montbeliard — I sup with his majesty — Object of his journey — Marriage of the grand-duke of Tuscany and Prin- cess Elizabeth — Confidence of the duchess of Montbehard — Landgrave of Hesse-Cassel — Friend- ship of Princess Antoinette for me — Departure dinner at Cardinal Rohan's — Caghostro again — FoUy of some women — Faith of the cardinal in Caghostro —Confidence — Eeflections . . 154 Page I I CONTENTS. Vll Page Chapter VIII. Birth of a prince — Projected journey of the grand duke and duchess of Russia — They leave St. Peters- burg — The parents of the grand-duchess go to meet her— I go with them — Recej)tion at Stuttgard — I fall sick — Devotion of Mademoiselle Cramm — Regret — Consolation — Projected journey to Paris — Journal — Birth of the dauphin — Golden dol- phins — The nurse — Anniversary of the reunion of Strasburg to France — Rejoicings — M. Gerard — Play by M. Rochon de Chabannes — Tribute of the peasants — Princess Christiana— Chapter of Remire- mont — Disputes betw^een les dames tantes and Us dames nieces — Baroness Wimpffen — M. Plachsland — M. de St. Germain, minister of war — M. de Maurepas — His presentation at Fontainebleau — Singular dress — Tragic event — Death of the prin- cess of Wurtemberg 184 Chapter IX. Party before my departure — M. Lagensteeker — Officers of the Alsatian regiment — Departure — Dowager baroness d'Oberkirch — The Catholic branch — M. de Butler and M. de Soettern — The Marquis of Talarn — LuneviUe — King Stanislaus — The gendarmes — Marshal Stainville — Prince Monaco — M. de StainviUe and the regent — The Zuckmantels — The countess of Lenencourt — The grands chevaux of Lorraine — The second order of knighthood — M. Franck, the great patriot — The Helvetius family — The Andlaus — The countess of LigneviUe — Nancy — Cathedral of Toul— The crabs — Na'ivet§ of an innkeeper — The rock of Sisyphus — The custom-house officers — Chalons-sur-Marne — Champagne and Rhine wine — Paris — Prince Baratinsky — Champigny — The marchioness de la Vlll CONTENTS. Page Salle — The dresses of the countess du Nord — Supper with Baroness Hahn — I go to Fontaine- bleau to meet the countess du Nord . . . 203 Chapter X. Arrival of the countess du Nord — Affectionate inter- view — Goodness of the countess du Nord — The marchioness of Bombelles — Her family — Madame Thavanet — Madame de Louvois — Follies of M. de Louvois — Strange anecdote — Mademoiselle Colombe — Crowd at the Russian embassy — De- scription of the count du Nord — M. and Madame Beckendorf — Prince Kourakin — Generosity of the countess du Nord — Procession of the hlue rthhons — The countess Skawronski — The countess Zolti- koff — General Wurmser — The Russian Court at Versailles — Baroness Mackan — Prince Baratinsky — Presentation of the count and countess du Nord — Timidity of Louis XVI. — The count du Nord visits the dauphin — The countess of Vergennes — The royal family — The high officers of the crown — Marshal Duras — Prince Beauvau — Marshal Biron — The countess of Provence — The countess d'Artois — Concert at court — The queen dispenses with the ceremony of my presentation — Her majesty ad- dresses me several times — Legros — Madame Mara — Supper at Madame Mackan's — Politeness of the count du Nord — The opera — Conflagration — Theatre at the Porte St. Martin — Rondo — Acci- dent — Goodness of the countess du Nord — Pre- sentiment — Petit Trianon — The queen of Golconda — M. de Monsigny — Supper at Princess Chinay's — Her monkey — The flower-girls of the Pont Neuf — Prisoners of " La Force " — The king's reprimand to M. St. Louis — The royal children of France — The wives of the Crown ministers — M. de Maurepas — CONTENTS. ix Page Tastes of Louis XVI.— The dukes of Aumont and Villequier— The duchess of Villeroy — M. de la Harpe— The princess of Bouillon— The duchess of Bouillon and Mademoiselle Lecouvreur — The coun- tess of Hallwill— The viscountess of Equevilly — The Vautrait— The jargon of fashion . . . 225 Chapter XL The countess du Nord at Notre-Dame — St. Peter's and Notre-Dame — Gift from the queen — Iphigenie en Tauride — Mdlle. Laguerre intoxicated — The duke of Bouillon, her lover— Couplets — Order of Felicity — Origin of Gluckists and Piccinists — Dancing — M. de Beaumarchais at the countess du Nord's — Jealousy of La Harpe — Reading of the 'Marriage of Figaro '—Seance at the Academy — M. d'Arnoud — Canes a la Barmecide —The countess du Nord at the Theatre Fran9ais— Verses — The new theatre — The actors — The pretended decay of art — Le Petit Dunquerque — Variet6s Amusantes . 263 Chapter XII. Visit to the countess de Vergennes — Adventure of Mdlle. *'^* — Indiscreet remark of the countess de Polignac — Brevet de dame — Court theatricals — Mdlle. Heinel, an opera dancer, retires to a convent — Verses — The rhymers of France — The princess de Chinay — Countess de Henin Lieland — The countess du Nord at Notre-Dame — Ordinance of the king concerning Protestant children — The countess de Bruce — Jealousy of Catherine II. — Disgrace — Les Invahdes — M. Thelusson — The Palais Royal — ^The cat of the house — A small house — Wit of Mdlle. Dervieux — An anecdote — Supper at Madame de Thavanet's — Reply to the king by CONTEXTS. Page M. De G***— The count du Nord at Bagatelle- Verses — The duchess de Lauzuu — Insolent admi- ration of the duke de Lauzun for the queen — The princess de H6nin and Mdlle. Arnould— Society of the princess de Bouillon — The globes of Father Coronelli— The gi-and-duke at the tomb of Riche- lieu — The opera of ' Theseus ' — The queen and the countess du Nord at the 'Bal d'opera' — Adven- ture of the duke de Chartres at the ball — Re- flections of the count du Nord 279 Chapter XIII. Breakfast at the duke of Penthievre's — Account of the marriage of the duke of Chartres — The king's repugnance to it — The Carmelites— M. Prati — Verses — Gross flattery — The duchess of Chartres' visit to the countess du Nord — Mesdames de Lcewestine and de Genhs' — Establishment of St. Sulpice — Gift of the czarina — The Boutin foUy — The count du Nord and M. Necker — Madame Necker and her daughter — M. de Condorcet — Incident at Madame de Montesson's — Her mar- riage with the duke of Orleans — Remark of Madame du Barry - M. de Caumartin — MdUes. Dugazon, Colombe, Lescot, and the Italian opera — Theatricals at Trianon — The queen sj)eaks to me — At supper I sit next to Madame Ehzabeth— Conversation about the Lort family — The female philosopher, author of thirty-two volumes . . 305 MEMOIRS OF THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRGH. CHAPTER I. Introduction — My birth — My grandfathers and grand- mothers — Malhause — My father — My mother dies young — My uncles — The Bouillon regiment — King Dagobert — The castle of Schweighausen — My edu- cation — My godmother — The Waldners — The Berek- heim — The Glaubitz — Montbehard — Arrival of the Prince Eugene. The pages wliicli I present to my reader are not memoirs, they are rather recollections. I have never had the slightest pretension to be a hel esprit, or to occupy a niche in the temple of Fame. I write that I may pass over in my mind the prin- cipal events of my life ; they are deeply interesting to me, nor will they be less so to my daughter. I know not in what light they may appear to others. I speak little of what concerns myself personally ; just as much as is necessary to make me known, and to prove that I have seen what I relate. My VOL. I. B Z MEMOIRS OF thoughts and my reflections are exclusively my own, I am not accountable to any person for them. My recollections are dear to me because I alone have a right to them. To divulge them would be to diminish the happiness they afford me. These pages, then, are but as a casket in which I place them, whence I may draw them forth in my old age. I write these pages in 1789, in my thirty-fifth year. I kept, in '82, a journal in which I minutely detailed my travels, with Madame la comtesse du Nord, to Paris, and from thence, through Brittany, Normandy, Picardy, Holland, and the Electoral States. I observed the same practice in '84 and '86, during two visits I made to Paris, whither I was drawn by the' kindness with which H.S.H. Ma- dame la duchesse de Bourbon deigned to honour me. I combine these journals and these notes to form the history of the first thirty-five years of my life. I speak in it of those that I have known ; of facts of which I have been the witness ; of the re- markable personages of this century with whom I have been intimately or distantly acquainted, or with whom I have had either personal or family connections. I add some of the letters which have been written to me by H.I.H. Madame la grande-duchesse Maria Foederowna. This august princess, spite of her abode in a foreign. THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 3 land, still entertains for me the deep and tender affection which sprung up in our infancy, and is good enough to write to me sometimes. My re- spectful devoted ness to this amiable princess is one of the most profound sentiments of my heart. As these memoirs may one day meet the eye of the careless or the cold, I would scruple to inter- weave in them that part of our correspondence which is solely confidential ; I cannot, however, resist the desire of making my daughter and her children, if she ever have any, acquainted with this noble mind, this tender heart, and this pure and lofty imagination, which the highest degree of worldly honours has never for a moment been able to corrupt, and which unconsciously reveal them- selves in this correspondence. The description of some of our ruined castles of Alsace leads me naturally to speak of the nobility of this country, of its local government, and the habits of its people — recitals which will, I fear, a few years hence, become matters of curious inquiry, for the tempest threatens the ancient social edifice, and God only knows how far His anger may pursue this perverse and abandoned generation. I shall often be obliged to relate things alike repugnant to my feelings and my principles, but which portray the epoch in which we live. I will, however, avoid low gossip, not possessing a b2 4 MEMOIRS OF talent for that style of wTiting wliicli gives such things currency. I record facts either more or less serious, and I will have at least the merit of an exact adherence to truth. I must, however, ob- serve, that the spirit of the times often found vent in certain expressions which, though far from ele- gant, I shall be obliged to record, believing them to be characteristic of the period. Must not the painter use the tint which will best portray his sulject? Now that I have warned my readers, if I should have any, of what they are to expect in these pages, I hasten to commence my subject, having always detested long prefaces. I was born on the 5th of June 1754, in the castle of Schweighausen, in Upper Alsace. I am the daughter of Francis Lewis, baron de Waldner de Freundstein, who became count on the death of his brother, and of Wilhelmina Augusta Elenora Sophia de Berekheim, of the branch of Ribecauville.* My maternal grandmother was still alive at the time of my birth. My other grand-parents had died before that event. This lady was a Berek- heim of the branch of Jebsheim, and had married her cousin Philij) -Frederick, baron de Berekheim- * Eibfecauville, or Rapolsweger, a lordship beloDging ori- ginally to the house of Eapolstein or Ribeaupierre. THE BARONESS D'OBERKIECH. 5 Ribecauville. Thus my mother united in her own person the two branches of this house, one of the most illustrious of the province. My grandfather de Waldner had married a Wurmser of the branch of Yenderheim-Sonderhau- sen, who died at Malhause in 1743. Her husband had died at the same place in 1735. I was bap- tised on the 7th of June 1754, in the parish church of Malhause, in the holy evangelical Protestant faith. My godfathers were Louis Anstatt de Wald- ner and Christian Louis Berekheim, my maternal uncle ; my godmothers, the comtesse de Waldner, nee de Vologer, wife of my uncle Dagobert. This uncle was afterwards lieutenant-general in the royal army, and Eve de Wurmser, cousin-german to my father. I was baptized Henrietta Louisa. Malhause was an important city allied to Switz- erland, and in which the Waldners had enjoyed at all times the honorary right of citizenship. This prerogative gives the right of serving in the Hel- vetic troops, amongst which the Waldners have a regiment. In order to preserve this privilege, the sons of our family were always baptized at Mal- hause, and the worthy citizens seemed highly flattered by this piece of politeness. Their terri- tory is surrounded on all sides by France. The aristocratic government is composed of seventy- eight members, and of three burgomasters, each b MEMOIRS OF governing in his turn. The domains of Malhause do not extend far beyond the walls of the city. The inhabitants are of the Protestant religion. There were, I have been told, great festivities at my baptism. I was treated as an heir. I would to Heaven that I were so ! I should not then be obliged to await in fearful expectation those convulsions which already announce them- selves, without entertaining a hope of being useful to my country, to my sovereigTis, who have over- whelmed me with kindness, to the cause of my caste and of my ancestors. I cannot persuade myself that a change of measures "svill bring an increase of happiness ; on the contrary, I believe that the destruction of the monarchy is inevitable, if our sovereigns enter on this dangerous path. May I be mistaken ! My father, the baron Francis Louis de Waldner, head of the family, served at first as captain, then as major, in the Royal Cavalry. He became after- wards colonel a la suite in the regiment Wurtem- berg, and at length commanding colonel of the regiment de Bouillon, from the 27th of February 1759, to the 1st of May 1760, when he retired. He is chevalier of the order of military merit, which is given to Protestant officers instead of the cross of St. Louis, and which differs from the latter only in the colour of the ribbon. THE BARONESS D'0BERKIRCH» 7 He is also commander of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, and president of the resident nobility in the circle of Suabia, canton of Ortenau. I never knew my mother, and my earliest recol- lection is that of the mourning dress which I wore for her when I was three or four years old. That was my age when she died. Poor mother ! I have often regretted her. Her counsels would have been so useful to me at my entrance into the great world ; and since that I myself have had a daughter, I feel how my mother would have loved me. She was married in 1751, and died at Bal-- denheim in 1757, in the flower of her youth and splendour of her beauty. She left three childreUj two sons and myself. The eldest of my brothers died young, as we shall see afterwards, and now in 1789 there remains to me only my youngest brother Godfrey, in whom the hopes of his family are centred. My father had three brothers, one of whom, lieutenant-colonel in the regiment de Waldner, died at Paris in 1764. I have only a slight recol- lection of him. Of the two survivors, one, Christian Frederick Dagobert count de Waldner, is lieu- tenant-general and proprietaire of the Swiss regiment de Waldner. The other, chevalier and afterwards commander of the Teutonic order, has been up to 1767 8 MEMOIRS OF colonel of the regiment de Bouillon. He replaced my father in this post, and left to become colonel of the royal Swiss-German regiment. My father and I visited him in his garrison in June 1766. How beautiful was that regiment de Bouillon ! What admirable discipline ! what order 1 what daring courage ! My father was enraptured, and my childish imagination deeply impressed. The soldiers and officers adored their former colonel, and paid me the most profound respect. I thought myself a personage of importance where I was so honoured by these moustached warriors, who always gave me a mihtary salute. How magnifi- cent my uncle seemed to me in his white coat with black facings, adorned with eight silver clasps (I have counted them; it was the act of a little girl), the collar, turned over, was also trimmed with silver lace a crejyines. I was at that time only tv/elve years of age, but all these things still present themselves vividly to my mind. That which struck me most, as I have said, was the affection of the older officers for my father. The tenderness of their attachment resembled that of a lover for a mistress. The prince de Bouillon, jyrojjrietaire of the regiment, could not have been received with more distinction. I remember nothing of my uncle Dagobeii: but his comical name. My brothers and I, when THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 9 children^ could not cease to speak of it, and no sooner was his name mentioned than the unlucky- song, with all its consequences, presented itself to our minds. My little brother Godfrey used to get into roars of laughter, for which we were both scolded, for I joined in them. A family tradition (I cannot vouch for its truth) was the cause of this odd name being introduced into our house. It is said that King Dagobert, master of the philosophic St. Eloi, became godfather, during his stay at Ruffach, to one of the ancient lords de Waldner. To perpetuate the remembrance of this honour, the name of Dagobert is found frequently inscribed on our genealogical tree. Whatever may be the truth of this tradition, certain it is that had the Almighty bestowed a son on me, I would not have given him this royal Christian name ; I would have feared that it might be the cause of his sister's supping on dry bread, a punishment to which I was condemned more than once, in memory of this great king of the first race. The castle of Schweighausen came into the pos- session of my ancestors on the extinction of a family that bore our name. It is situated on the route from Colmar to Belfort, a league to the south of Cernay, and a league and a half to the south-east of Thann, near an afflux of the Totter, or D otter, a little river issuing from the mountains 10 MEMOIRS OF of Vosges, between Alsace and Lorraine. The Totter passes through Masvaux or Masmunster, and falls into the 111, a league above Malhause. Schweighausen is a large square building, flanked on the north by a tower with a belfry. It is sur- rounded by a deep moat, constantly filled with running water, supiDlied by a little stream, and separated from a pretty pond by beautifully laid- out gardens. The entrance is guarded by an old- fashioned bridge leading directly to the outer court- yard, which is surrounded by extensive out-offices. To the west the land rises in a semicircular form, thickly planted with majestic trees. Thence one has a view of the whole chain of the Yosges, inter- spersed with many a mouldering ruin, and beneath in the valley rise the village spires and many " a fair abbaye.'' The whole forms a magic picture. Wooded hills ascend as if in regular gradations ; the various shades of foliage, blending or contrast- ing, curtain the mountain side with a magnificent drapery. O Alsace ! my beloved country ! nothing has ever been able to efface your remembrance from my heart — nothing is comparable to the splendour with which Nature decks herself in your woods and your valleys, your mountains and your streams. I can well conceive what ought to be the enthusiasm of her children for such a country, — a country which offers every charm, and THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 11 yields every comfort. I will speak hereafter of the castle of Freunstein, from which we have taken our name, and which was destroyed two centuries ago in the war of the Rustands, or peasants. I preferred Schweighausen to any spot on earth. The dear days of my childhood were passed there ; how happy were my brothers and I in that abode ! What good advice we received there ! What noble and what excellent examples were proposed to us ! My brothers were taught to sacrifice everything to honour and to duty, and I was desired to imitate my mother. We lived there in quiet and retire- ment, receiving the visits of our relatives and friends, praying to the Lord, and practising his holy religion, listening to the spoken word of God, and treasuring it up in our bosoms. Every evening we assembled round my father, who endeavoured to repay by the extreme tenderness of his affection the loss we had sustained in my mother. We lis- tened to his conversations with my uncles or the pious clergymen who often visited us at the castle. He related historical facts, the high deeds of our ancestors and of the people of Alsace, who have never bent beneath a foreign yoke, and scorned to admit a master. What giants these men were ! these noble knights, living in their eagle nests, and descending their mountains to redress, or, alas ! too often to oppress innocence. I adored these 12 MEMOIRS OF legendary tales; I could listen to them for ever; and, true to these memories, I will insert a few of them in the pages I propose to -wTite. After the death of my mother, my father was ^ very much embarrassed about my education. The idea of placing me in a Catholic convent could not for a moment enter his mind. We held these houses in detestation. I was then much more in- tolerant than I now am. An intercourse with the world has mollified my bigotry, and I have been obliged to tolerate what I could not proscribe. At that time my exaggeratedj fervour — I borrow a phrase from the Roman Catholic devotees, not being able to find one more expressive — would not allow me to make any concession. I followed strictly the spirit and the letter of the law. My father favoured these ideas, and therefore begged my godmother, Madame Eve de Wurmser, to fulfil in my regard the duties of a mother. She consented. I still remember her inaugiiration in the castle, the apartments that were allotted her, and the pretty little chamber that was appointed me close to hers. The chamber and little drawinof-room which during my mother's life were used by her, remained shut up ; my father did not wish that my godmother should take possession of them. These wounds of his heart still bled freshly. Ma- dame de Wurmser superintended my education, THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 13 which was based upon the strictest principles. She was a woman of elevated mind and strong -under- standing. She taught me a knowledge of the world, and made me feel that it was useless to ask her anything that she ought not to grant ; she taught me to govern my own mind, to repulse exaggerated fancies, the day-dreams of the imagi- nation. She had in early life known bitter sor- rows, which had rendered her pensive, nay almost sad. In her society my gaiety was soon damped, and I became in a little while edifyingly reserved and grave. My gTatitude to my godmother shall end only with my life. It is to her instructions I am indebted for anything that may render me valuable or useful in society. We often remained alone at Schweighausen when my father quitted it either for business or for pleasure. Madame de Wurmseris conversation made these days pass like minutes. I had from nature a decided taste for the study of history. I wished to know everything, to learn ever3rfching, to remember everjrthing. My extraordinary memory, especially for dates, assisted me, and smoothed away the difficulties. I could recite entire pages without a single mistake ; I abandoned myself with passionate ardour to the study of chronology, and had even the audacity to plunge into theological discussions. Madame de Wurmser soon forbid them ; and she was right, for 14 MEMOIRS OF I had become a disputant. I introduced contro- versial subjects, and a disagreeable bitterness was too often mixed in my observations. I plunge';'^ to an immeasurable depth into abstruse inquuies and knotty arguments, often forgetting in the mazy route the point from which I had started ; and would have become inevitably either a fanatic or a fool. My wise and watchful guide preached toleration incessantly ; she succeeded in inculcating the principle, and I am become most indulgent towards the religious belief of others, provided they do not attack mine. One of my favourite studies, as may be easily conceived, was that of the chronicles of our house ; and I really believe this to be a salutary study. When one is fully convinced of the greatness of one's ancestors, one would blush to degenerate from them ; one feels a noble emulation to imitate them, and to run the same glorious career. Never was adage more true than that : noblesse oblige (nobility ennobles). Genealogists carry back our family to the time of Louis le Debonnaire, and to one of his generals named, as they say, Waldner, who signalized him- self in 814 in the war against Kartwin, mayor of the palace, a revolutionist of that time accused of peculation and other courtesies of that kind. The genealogical charts of the third century which I THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 15 have consulted mention the Waldners as noble- men of high antiquity even then. They sustained during seven years a war against the city of Zurich, which had seized their suzerain, John of Hapsburg^ and kept him prisoner. In retaliation they shut up in their castle all the Zurichians that they had captured, and detained them until the de- liverance of John of Hapsburg, who thus owed them both his liberty and his life. Some time after they took up arms against Strasburg, against Soultz Rouffach, &c. In a word, they have played a very important part in the history of Alsace. They possessed many fiefs there, the ruins of which may be yet seen amongst our mountains. From the very foundation of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, knights of the house of De Waldner were to be found in its ranks, and one of them, Christopher de Waldner, was killed at Rhodes, in 1523, after performing prodigies of valour in defending this city against Solyman. A short time previous John de Waldner had been chancellor of the empire at the Diet of Worms, in 1497. My mother, as I have said, was a Berekheim of the branch of Eib^cauville. She had two brothers, of whom the younger, a commanding officer in the Royal Deux-Ponts regiment, and married to a Eathsamhausen d'Ehenweger, was my godfather ; he was to me indeed a second father. The other, 16 MEMOIRS OF six years older, and who was called Bereklieim de Loen^ach, was counsellor of the regency at Baden. He married a Glaubitz, a name of which the origin is rather curious. The Glaubitz, ancient barons of Silesia, emigrated to Poland, from whence one of the family trans- planted himself to the banks of the Rhine. This family is descended from an ancient knight, a member of the second Crusade. He fought, in sight of the two armies, a Saracen renowned for strength and courage, and conquered him amidst the applauding shouts of Christian and infidel. Plunging his sword into the bosom of his con- quered enemy, he exclaimed : " Glaub jtz,'' or "jetz"' — Believe now. Maria Octavia Louisa de Glaubitz, sister of my aunt, married a Berekheim of the elder branch, which united still more closely the house of Berek- heim, a family in which goodness is a patrimonial inheritance. They are adored by their vassals, and their estates, particularly that of Schoppenwyr, between Colmar and Schelstadt, where they usually reside, are, as the tenants and peasantry say, like the earthly paradise. I may perhaps have lingered a little too long over these accounts of my family, but I do not regret it. In the first place I wished it to be dis- tinctly known from what race I have sprung; I feel it to be a conscientious obligation, and besides THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 17 I find a pleasure in relating these particulars. I have the weakness, if it be one, to esteem what the heroes of the present day call trifles, and I ask, in my future son-in-law, if Providence should send me one in the midst of the chaos which surrounds us, and which seems about to swallow up all social order ; I ask, I say, in my son-in-law, only high birth ; there is a remedy for every defect but the want of that. Apologising for this digression, to which I would put an end were I not obliged, before entering further into the history of my life, to relate the origin of my intimacy with the illustrious family of Montbeliard and Wurtemberg : living in the same neighbourhood was the primary cause. We were only nine leagues distant from their serene high- nesses, and as the de Waldners have always attended their court, my father conducted me thither. I was overwhelmed with kindness in my first visit ; the Princess Dorothea, now grand- duchess of Russia, honoured me with her affection, and her illustrious mother, H.R.H. Madame la duchesse de Wurtemberg, princess de Montbeliard, testified for me an almost maternal kindness and affection. Montbeliard is the capital of a comte formerly attached to the German empire, but not belonging to any particular circle. Situated between the VOL. I. C 18 MEMOIRS OF principality of Porentrug, which belongs to the bishopric of Basle, Soudyan, Lorraine, and Franche Comte, it still preserves its independence. The state is composed of the comte of Montbeliard, properly so called, and of seven or nine lordships. The male line of the first reigning house expired 1394. The heiress married Eberhardt, comit of Wurtemberg, and gave him as a marriage jDortion the comte de Montbeliard ; the Wurtemberg family received the title of duke a hundred years after. Montbeliard was long the appanage of the younger branches, which became gradually extinct, and the comte returned to Wurtemberg-Stuttgard, the elder and reigning branch, who were also dukes of Wurtemberg-Montbeliard, and, by abbreviation, dukes de Montbeliard. I do not know how the custom of ^\Titing Wurtemberg has been intro- duced — it is not the ancient orthogTaph}^ In the beginning of this century, in 1723, the Prince Leopold Eberhardt not having left heirs capable of succeeding, the reigning duke of Wur- temberg-Stuttgard, Eberhardt Louis, received the investiture of the comte from the Emperor Leo- pold. Tliis prince fixed his abode there, but neither his cousin, Charles Alexander, who suc- ceeded him in 1733, nor any prince of the family, has followed an example so advantageous to the principality. THE BAROXESS d'OBERKIECH. 19 But in 1769 the Duke Frederick Eugene de Wurtemberg, third son of the Duke Charles Alex- ander, and father of the reigning Duke Charles Eugene, took up his abode at Montbeliard with his family. He had married nineteen years pre- viously, being then only general officer in the Prussian service. He had several children in his marriagfe with the Princess Frederica Dorothea Sophia, daughter of the Margrave de Brandenburg- Schwadt, niece to the great Frederick. The residence of this family was a blessing fi'om Heaven for this hitherto-abandoned little country. The inexhaustible benevolence of these princes, their solicitude for their subjects, who had been long accustomed to misery, soon spread abundance and richness around them. This comte, which had during seven centuries and a half preserved its in- dependence, soon took the position that its import- ance merited. The princes assumed the title of serene highness, by permission of the Emperor Leopold the First ; they had previously been named simply your Grace. The inhabitants, who were all Protestants, adored the august family to whom they owed all their happiness. It was imder these auspices, and in these circumstances, that I was presented for the first time at their court. C2 20 MEMOIRS OF CHAPTER II. The Baron Waldner at Paris — Presentation at Versailles — The prince of Montbehard and his family — Description of his mother, princess of La Tour and Taxis — First visit — The castle of Montbeliard — Princess Dorothea of Wurtemburg — Mdlle. Schneider, my waiting-maid — Madame Hendel, femme-de- charge at Montbehard — Baron Maiicler — Birth of a prince — Erection of the chateau of Etupes — Visit of the reigning duke — Some account of this prince — Negotiation for his marriage — Extravagances ; the States remonstrate — The duke is affianced — Countess Hohenheim — Prince Louis Eusrene — Three brothers called Eugene, and why. My father visited Paris, lie was very well received at Court. He had the honour of being presented to His Majesty Louis XY„ on the 23rd of Sep- tember 1769, when, after having jDresented his credentials, he took his place in one of the carriages which accompanied the king to the chase ; he was also once invited to Croisy, which may be considered a very high distinction, the king receiving there only those whom he honoured with his intimacy. My father was unfitted both by disposition and moral principles to please a prince who unfor tunately for France was entirely devoted to his mistresses. Perhaps his deportment was too grave, THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 21 or his serious conversation thought a check upon those joyous meetings ; however it was he was not invited again. He was promised that his brother the major should be made brigadier, a promise which was soon fulfilled, as my uncle was one of those promoted on the 3rd of January 1770. This uncle had been presented at Versailles the 12th of March 1755, fourteen years before. The early death of my mother prevented her enjoying a like honour, and my grandmother sought happi- ness only in seclusion. Later, as we shall see, I enjoyed this prerogative myself, for which I was prepared by serving my court apprenticeship at Montbeliard, under princes not difficult to please, for nowhere, not even in the humblest cottage, did the domestic virtues ever shine with greater purity and lustre than in this royal abode. My father returned from Paris about the same time that Prince Frederick Eugene fixed his resi- dence at Montbeliard, and hastened, accompanied by Madame Wurmser, to pay his respects to his royal highness. The prince and his august spouse received him in the kindest and most honourable manner. The Baron Waldner, my grandfather, had rendered important services to the Duke Leopold Eberhardt during the disputes of the latter with the empire concerning the succession of the principality The life of this Duke Leopold Eberhardt (as I shall 22 MEMOIRS OF relate in anotlier place) was filled with the most romantic adventures, in which love played only too important a part. In 1720 and 1723 he had requested M. de Waldner to supjDort his interests with the emperor and the regent of France ; but his cause, being either bad or difficult to sustain, failed, not"s\dthstandino' the zeal of mv oTandfather. My father's reception at the court of Frederick Euo-ene was as o-racious as if this neofotiation had succeeded. The comte of Montbeliard was re- stored to the reigning branch of Wurtemberg- Stuttgard. The jDages of these memoirs which mil relate to Duke Leopold Eberhardt will not be the least interesting amongst them. I will recount various anecdotes of this extraordinary man, for the authenticitv of which I can vouch, as Baron Waldner learned them at their source. He was a kind of Sardanapalus or Louis XIV., on a lesser scale ; he has left an immortal reputation in this countr}^, where such wild adventures as his were unknown, and where, if it please God, they will never be again enacted. My father had been colonel of the Wurtem- bergian regiment belonging to the Duke Louis Eugene, brother of the Prince Frederick Eugene, which regiment having been incorjDorated with the Royal German caused my father to join that of Bouillon. The prince spoke mth him for a long THE BAROXESS d'OBERKIECH. 23 time concerning this affair, and treated him with. the greatest distinction. Her royal highness the duchess was not less gracious to him and to Madame Wurmser. " I know that you have a chaniiing daughter, M. de Waldner," said she ; '' you must bring her to us very soon, I would wish my children to be acquainted Avith her ; they could not have a better friend, and, for several reasons, I would wish them to make a great many ; in a few days I will expect you and the Countess Henrietta/' (I was called countess because I belonged to a Protestant Chap- ter of Germany, of which the Canonesses bore this title.) Such an invitation could not be declined ; my father came home delighted : he told me of my good fortune, which in truth it was for me. I was very happy at Schweighausen, but at fifteen one feels new desires ; I hoped to see the world and to meet companions of my own age, with whom I could often talk and sometimes laugh. I was tall ; they said I had a distinguished air ; my face was good-looking, notwithstanding my health, which had been always dehcate ; and, besides, the most sensible girl has a thousand ideas, a thousand vague desires, which bear her imagination beyond the walls of a castle. A young bird spreads its wings and seeks to fly — a young girl desires to see, to 24 MEMOIRS OF know. I will say nothing of the pleasure I felt in a change of dress : my pinafores were put aside, I got long dresses ; and, perhaps because of my going to the court at Montb^liard, I was allowed to wear a hoop and court dress — think of my delight. The family into which I was to have the honour of being admitted consisted, in the first place, of the Duke Frederick Eugene de Wurtemberg, prince of Montbdliard, aged 37 years. He inherited some of the genius of his mother, the princess of La Tour and Taxis, whose powers of fascination were so generally recognised during her lifetime. The lively disposition of this princess, vivacious almost to petulance, and her strong passions, were a constant subject of conversation in the German courts. She was suspected of many weaknesses, whether justly or unjustly I cannot say ; all that I know is that she possessed the art of pleasing in an eminent degree, and was the most charming and the most captivating of women. Of this she could not be ignorant, as she heard it constantly ; but what influence it may have had on her is a secret between herself and God. The Prince Eugene had at first been destined by his father for the church, and had even received at eighteen the ecclesiastical tonsure at Constance. But he soon abandoned this career to enter the service of Frederick II. of Prussia, and served under THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 25 his orders during the seven-years' war. He covered himself with glory : the hero took notice of him. The duchess, his mother, who did not allow any oppor- tunity to escape, profited of this occasion to negotiate at Berlin a marriage between this prince (who was her third son) and the princess Frederica Dorothea Sophia, daughter of the Margrave of Brandenburg- Schwadt, and niece of the king. As it ought to be, they fell in love on their first acquaintance : never was there a happier or more suitable union. The princess of Montbeliard was an accomplished woman, in whom virtue ennobled every grace. When I had the honour of being presented to them, the princess was thirty-three years of age. They had five sons and three daughters. The eldest, Prince Frederick William, born in Pome- rania, where his father's regiment was in garrison, was of the same age as I, that was fifteen. His brother, Prince Louis, was thirteen. Prince Eugene the Third was eleven. The fourth was Prince William who was eight, and the fifth Prince Ferdinand who was only six. Of the three daughters, the eldest was my dear Princess Dorothea who, though only ten, was almost as tall as I. She then gave promise of all for which she has been since distinguished — a charming disposition, an excellent heart, and the most extraordinary beauty. Although she was 26 MEMOIRS OF short-sighted, her eyes were inagnii¢, and their brilhancy seemed but the reflection of her soul. The Princess Frederica, her sister, was four ; she has been since married to the coadjutor of Lubeck, and died in 1789, at twenty years of age, as we shall see hereafter. The last of all was the Princess Elizabeth, who was but two; she became grand- duchess of Tus- cany in 1788. All these princes were reared in the Lutheran religion, in accordance with the wishes of the king of Prussia, although the prince of Montb^liard was a Catholic, and had quitted the Prussian service to become general of cavalry in the Suabian circle. On the day fixed for my first visit, I rose with the dawn. My impatience to set out was so great that I could not remain quietly in any one place after I had put on a dress of pink gros de Tour, brocaded with flowers in their natural colours, and trimmed with silvered ribbon. It was worn together with a petticoat of plain white Indian silk over a small hoop. In my hair I wore a rose and a small aigrette of pearls, which had belonged suc- cessively to my grandmother and to my mother. I have always attached a superstition to this jewel, believing it to be a kind of talisman which would confer happiness on the wearer ; and, there- fore, never failed to wear it on all important THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH 27 occasions, counting amongst them my wedding day. On the way from Schweighausen to Mont- b^liard, I held myself as stiff as a soldier, lest I should derange my dress ; I was counselled not to forget my courtesies, not to speak except when spoken to, to be respectful to the young princesses, and reserved with the young princes. Until the very moment of our arrival I heard nothing but constant repetitions of etiquette and formalities, to which our royal hosts attached but little import- ance, but which it was our duty not to forget. At last we saw Montbeliard ! I will say a few words descriptive of the castle before relating my entrance into it, as I always wish to arrange my frame before placing my picture. The castle of Montbeliard dates no earlier than 1751 ; it has replaced a large and strongly-built mansion-house somewhat resembling a citadel, situated on the side of a steep rock, from which it overlooked the city, and was rendered almost im- pregnable by its position. It was partly dis- mantled in 1677, by the order of Louis XIV. It was composed of two parts, separated by the church of St. Mainboeuf, which was situated in the same enclosure. The more ancient part was called the " Mid-chatel,'' or the Chatel derriere; the other, the Chatel-neuf, or Chatel-devant, on account of its position with respect to the church. 28 MEMOIRS OF It is a tradition that it was formerly surrounded by cedars brought from the Holy Land by a count of Montb^liard in 1400. The baron of Gerniningen, governor of the principality, had the present edifice erected about the middle of the seventeenth century. The court- yard is delightfully shaded by linden and chestnut trees. The lofty and spacious apartments are, or rather were at that time, very simply furnished. The gay and gallant times of the Duke Eberhardt had passed away. The suite of then Royal High- nesses were sufficiently well lodged, comfortably, though without luxury. They sought to make all around them happy, and were universally and deservedly beloved. My heart, beat quick as our carriage entered the court-yard ; and as we as- cended a flight of steps where the chamberlain of the princess received us, my father whispered some words of encouragement : — " You will do very well, my daughter, do not be afraid.'' We entered, and saluted the duke and duchess. I was so timid that I could not see anything, but the voice of the duchess reassured me as it were by enchantment. She spoke to me in the most flattering and gracious manner ; and after per- mitting me to kiss her hand, she called the Princess Dorothea, and presented me to her herself -without the formality of an intermediate person. THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 29 " My daughter/' said she to her, " this is a young lady that I would wish to be your friend. Be as good and as attentive to study as she, and endeavour to impress upon her the pleasure we all feel in receiving her, that she may often be in- duced to come again/' The young princess replied by unceremoniously throwing her arms round my neck, which em- barrassed my father very much, and made their highnesses laugh aloud. " This is not "Versailles, baron," said the prince, " and I have not the least objection that your daughter should embrace mine." From this day I was as much at home with this royal family as if I had lived with them all my life. She who was to ascend the throne of the Czars, she who was to be mistress of half Europe, treated me as a sister, as an equal. She lavished on me the tenderest affection and the most un- bounded confidence, and allowed me to enjoy all the sweet familiarities of a mutual affection. When we were preparing to take leave, the prince told my father that apartments had been prepared for us, and that we and Madame Wurmser should pass some days at the castle. I can assure you that I required no entreaties to remain. I had brought my waiting-maid, Mdlle. Schneider, with me. I have never parted with her. She has rocked my 30 MEMOIRS OF cradle, tended my youth, and been a second self in my house since I possessed one of my own. She was at that time thirty-nine years of age. An ex- traordinary intimacy sprung up between her and Madame Hendel, femme-de-charge of the castle. What a strange person that Madame Hendel was ! What joyous peals of laughter she often caused to the young princesses and to me. We always called her Madame Pompadour, not that there existed any similarity between her and the lady of that name (or that w^e could have understood such an allusion if there did), but because of her pompous and majestic bearing. She usually wore a dress of stiflP violet silk, with red knots, the rustling of which was heard through all the corridors from the moment she left her room. She thought her- self the greatest lady in Europe after the princess ; and when speaking of herself always said, they have done so and so, they have been in such a place ; / appearing to her too vulgar and common- place for her rank. She was not aware that in this she imitated M. de Turenne, nor do I think she would feel flattered had she known it, a viscount being in her eyes a very humble person, were he even a Latour or a Bouillon. When the Princess Dorothea was married to the czarovitz, we thought she would have burst with pride. She was always raving of the power, of the vast dominions of her THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 31 dear mistress. To be able to appreciate the word vast, one should have heard her pronounce it as she opened her mouth to its fullest vertical extent. The governor of the young princes was the baron de Maucler, a distinguished military officer of high birth, and who possessed a brilliant understanding. All the family idolized him, and looked upon him as a beloved friend. I was soon on the very best terms with this amiable pedagogue, as the prince de Montb^liard used laughingly to call him. His wife, the baroness Lefort, to whom he has been since married, was born in Geneva, and was de- scended from the companion of the Czar Peter the Great. The Princess Dorothea looked on that as a mark of predestination when her marriage with the czarovitz was first spoken of The truth is, she was constantly questioning M. de Maucler about Peter I. and Russia ; and in our confidential con- versations she always spoke of this country with a burning curiosity that was almost prophetic. Per- haps she foresaw her future destiny. Some years after, when the prince of Montbeli- ard sent his three eldest sons to Lausanne for the completion of their education, M. de Maucler ac- companied them. He watched over them with paternal solicitude, which they repaid with filial affection. We will often again have occasion to speak of him. From the year 1769 I became an 32 MEMOIRS OF almost habitual inmate of the castle of Montb^- liard. I always lived there when my father was from home, and even sometimes remained there with him. The princess was enceinte, and rather delicate. She rarely went out, and I read to her in French or German : she always corrected me when I made a mistake in pronunciation, or when I uttered some ill-constructed phrase. During the months immediately preceding the birth of the young prince, she asked my father to allow me to remain with her to amuse her, as she said : she called me her reader, and taught me a wonderful tapestry stitch (le point de Troye), in which she embroi- dered fauteuils mth inimitable skill. The 3rd of May 1770 was a great festival at Montb^liard, H.RH. having given birth to a prince, who was called Charles Henry Frederic. This was her sixth son. The entire city was illu- minated, and the different guilds of citizens came one after the other to congratulate their sovereigns. I ate so great a quantity of sweetmeats that I was sick for two days, which greatly amused the Prin- cess Dorothea, who, though she had eaten more than I, and continued eating them a week after, escaped unhurt. Madame Hendel had six dozen boxes of them for her share, which she allowed to decay rather than waste one on the servants of the castle. THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 83 In the course of the same year the prmce ex- ecuted a favourite project, that of building a sum- mer residence at Etupes, a pretty village two leagues from Montb^liard, on the road to Basle. It was finished at the end of November. Beloved castle of Etupes, what tender memories twine around you ! how deserted do you now appear to me without my dear princess I How delightful you were then, when your splendour was softened by refinement ! how delicious were your gardens ! The 20th of December 1770, Charles Eugene, the reigning duke of Wurtemberg, came to Etupes, with his brother : my father and I had the honour of accompanying them. The Prince Charles Eu- gene had a fine classical head. At the birth of this prince, in 1728, it was little thought that he would ascend the throne of Wurtemberg, and yet, in 1737, every obstacle being removed, he became, at nine years of age, head of the ducal house. Placed under the guardianship of his mother and of the dukes of Wurtemberg-Neustadt, and of Wurtem- berg-Oels, his nearest relations, the duke minor was conducted to the court of the great Frederick. The intelligence and capacity which he soon showed caused his minority to be abridged. At six- teen the Emperor Charles VII. invested him with the government of the duchies of Wurtemberg and of Montb^Hard. He assembled around him a VOL. I. D 34! MEMOIRS OF brilliant court, whither the presence of his mother attracted all that could charm or delight. The treasures of the State soon became the prey of male and female favourites. Balls, concerts, shows, bril- liant hunts, employed all the time of this young prince, whose early youth had given promise of so much glory. Intoxicated by youth and power, surrounded by seductions of every kind, he flirted with every woman, adored several, and loved one, who afterwards became his Egeria, and was the means of recalling him to nobler pursuits. This court of Stuttgard became the principal one of Germany ; its luxury was alarming, and the duke lavished his millions without restraint. The consequence was that the different states of the duchy remonstrated with the duke, which had the effect of checking these excesses for a time, but could not entirely repress them. The prince was offended by this interference, which he considered disrespectful, and determined to continue his for- mer career. It was then that the lady of whom I have spoken showed him his danger — his errors. She represented to him what he was, what he might have been ; she painted what would be the terrible consequence of his extravagance ; she threatened to abandon him if he neglected her warning, and at length led him to acknowledge his errors, and to resolve to repair them. At the time THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 35 that I saw him at Etupes and Montbdliard he was forty-two years of age, and still one of the finest men in Europe. Experience had matured his un- derstanding ; he had become reconciled with the states, and had no higher ambition than to regain the affection of his subjects, to encourage agricul- ture, and to assist the development of other sources of national wealth. He was married to a princess of Brandenburg-Bareith, daughter of Erederica Sophia of Prussia, eldest sister of the great Frede- rick. He had no children, and would, in conse- quence, be succeeded by his next brother. Prince Louis Eugene. Charles Eugene's marriage had been negotiated by his mother, the charming prin- cess of La Tour and Taxis, of whom I have already spoken. She had arranged it immediately after the arrival of her son at Berlin, and it was decided that the affianced princes should themselves retain the power of annulling or fulfilling the contract. They were satisfied with the arrangements that had been made for them, though feeling for each other no warmer sentiment than that of friendship. The affections of the duke belonged to another. If any excuse could be found for this conduct, it would be in the extraordinary merit of the lady. Her beauty was her least charm, and she loved the duke with an unparalleled disinterestedness and devotion. We will again have occasion to speak of this countess d2 86 MEMOIRS OF Hohenlieim (this washer name), when we will find her connection with the prince legitimatized by marriage. The Prince Louis Eugene, his brother s heir ap- parent, is lieutenant-general in the French ser\ace, and has distinguished himself at the head of the troops of Louis XV. against Maria Theresa. He generally resides at Paris.* The three brothers, as we have seen, bear the name of Eugene, in accordance with the wishes of their father, who had a great admiration for. the celebrated Prince Eugene of Savoy ; however, the youngest brother only was called Eagene.-f- They were Catholics, their father having embraced that religion, but did not in consequence make any alteration in the constitution of the duchy, which had been, and still remains, Protestant. I feel great admiration for this forbearance : liberty of * He is an amiable prince, but unfortunately perpe- trates puns and " jeu de mots," which are, as M. de Vol- taire says, " L'esprit de ceux qui n'en ont pas." He writes yerses tolerably, and reads them extremely well. t The Duke Frederick Eugene has also reigned under the name of Frederick I,, from 1797 to 1799, but the comte of Montbeliard was reunited to France in 1792 as part of the department of Doubs. The Duke Frederick Eugene is father of the first king of Wurtemberg, and head of the reigning branch. He reigned from 1793 to 1798, and left two daughters, both married to princes of WaUenstein, and a natural son, the count of Sondheim. THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 37 conscience cannot be attacked with impunity. Louis XIY. himself has dimmed the lustre of his glory by repealing the edict of Nantes. Of all women of infamous celebrity, I feel the gTeatest antipathy to Madame Maintenon, notwithstanding the marriage which cast a veil over her errors. She has called down on the old Lion the maledic- tions of an entire people ; she has distracted France with intestine wars, and has caused its wealth and industry to seek refuge amongst foreigners. Honour, on the contrary, to the good and vir- tuous monarch, who, by the edict of '87, granted to Protestants equal rights with other citizens, and acknowledged the validity of those acts by which they became husbands and heads of families. May their gratitude to the king make them loyal, de- voted, and faithful subjects ! 38 MEMOIRS OF CHAPTER III. The dauphiness at Strasburg — Etiquette observed to- wards foreign princes — Entree of Marie Antoinette — Rejoicings and ^presentations — Description of the dauphiness — Pavilion in the Isle du Rhin — Disagree- able prognostic — Happy saying of the dauphiness — Rejoicings at Montbeliard — The baron and baroness Boreck — Countess Wartensleben — BUnd-nian''s Buff — Audience of the prince ; grievances — Princess Dorothea of Wurtemberg — Her affection for me — Her mother's confidence in me — Soubriquets — Milord Carcasso — Origin of ' Lane ' — Birth of a prince — Gardens at Etupes — M. Tronchin — Antiquities of Mondau — The hermit — The page — Surprise — Government of Montbeliard — Theatrical representations at Etupes — M. de Beroldingen — The prince of Murbach — ^Viscount Bombelles — Mar- riage of a Cathohc and Protestant null — Duchess Mazarin — Discussions — M. de Wittgenstein — Baron Reinbach — General Strahlenheim — Baron Obenheim — General Wangen — Order of military merit — Jews — Ollwillon — Count Waldner, first grand cross — Birth of Prince Frederic — Bull of Clement XIV. — Death of Louis XV. — Foufs au seiitiment — ^IVIargrave of Bareith and Mdlle. Clairon — Accidental death of duke de Deux- Ponts — Duel of Baron Pirch. Before speaking further of this visit of the reign- ing duke of Wiirtemburg to Montbeliard, I must relate a very interesting event which took place in the same year, and which I had forgotten to mention in its proper place. The dauphiness, THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 39 now queen of France, passed through Strasburg, where I went with my father to pay her our re- spects. Oh ! if I lived a hundred years I could not forget that day, its festivities, those exclama- tions of joy uttered by a people delighted by the presence of their sovereign. Madame Wurmser accompanied us. The delicate health of the prin- cess of Montb^liard prevented their highnesses undertaking the journey, and besides the etiquette of the French court is so severe and unbending towards foreign princes, that these naturally stay away except when absolutely obliged to appear. Their rank is not recognised, they can only see the king and queen in their cabinets, and even when their majesties invite them to dine, they cannot have the honour of touching their hands ; where- fore all those who have visited Versailles have assumed a fictitious name, not wishing, with their proper titles, to be mingled indiscriminately with the crowd of courtiers, as would certainly be the case. Besides, in appearing incognito, they retain their right to private receptions, where their rank is not disputed. There was no exception made even in favour of the relations of the queen (of course I do not include the emperor ; he is en- tirely out of the question) : however that may be, the court of Montb^liard, wishing to avoid these inconveniences, sent their apologies. 40 MEMOIRS OF The entree of the princess was magnificent. Three troops of children from twelve to fifteen years of age, were dressed a la Suisse, and sta- tioned along the path of her royal highness, v/hilst eighteen shepherds and as many shepherd- esses of the same age, presented her with baskets of flowers. Nothing could be more picturesque. Twenty-four girls (from fifteen to twenty), daugh- ters of the most resj)ectable citizens, magnificently dressed according to the different German fashions, strewed flowers before the princess, who received them as graciously as Flora herself The trooj)s of little Swiss got permission to mount guard at the bishop's court during the stay of the daujDhiness. The programme of these rejoicings was exactly copied from those of the journey of Louis XV., before his illness, at Metz, the devices being of course altered to suit the occasion. Some persons who were present at the fireworks gave me so lively a description of them, that I feel as if I had seen them myself What could equal those mythologi- cal figures ? those horses, chariots ? those sea-gods, arms, and flaming shields, placed in the centre of the river Ille, whose flowing waters reflected, as from a thousand mirrors, the brilliant emblems jolaced upon its surface ? It was like the end of the world ; all idea of time or place was lost. Nor were more substantial enjoyments forgotten; oxen THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 41 were roasted whole, wine flowed in abundance, and so great was the quantity of bread, that the poorest persons would allow it to remain untouched upon the ground. In the evening the entire city was illuminated, the cathedral was one blaze of light from cross to foundation ; every ornament of the building shone like a collection of stars. The different trades . displayed their strength and address in various games, for which the dauphiness distributed the prizes, accompanying each with some of those flattering words, whose talismanic influence she has often exercised on the throne of France. I had the honour of being presented with several other young ladies of quality. She received us with the most captivating simplicity and grace, asked our names, spoke graciously to each, and, before our departure, had distributed amongst us the superb bouquets which had been sent her by the Chambers de Treize and Quinze, of Suat, and the other authorities of the city. I preserved the most beautiful flower of mine in an herbarium as a souvenir, and gave it afterwards to the Princess Dorothea. The dauphiness was at this time tall and well made, though rather thin. She has changed very little since ; her face is still the same, long and regular, with its aquiline nose, high forehead, and 42 MEMOIRS OF lively blue eyes. Her mouth, which was very small, had even then a slight expression of disdain. She possessed the Austrian lip in a higher degTee than any member of her illustrious house. It would be impossible to describe the brilliancy of her complexion ; it was literally the mingling of the lily and the rose, and her hair was a light chestnut, in which she wore very little powder. The dignity of her bearing, the majesty of her figure, and the elegance and grace of every move- ment, were as remarkable then as now. In short, everything in her bespoke a high descent, a noble and generous heart, qualities which gained the aflfections of all around her. A pavilion in three divisions had been erected on the Isle du Rhin to receive the archduchess. I know not who it was that had the bad taste to ornament it with tapestries representing the mas- sacres and domestic quarrels of Jason and Medea. The princess and her attendants immediately observed it. " Ah,'' said the young dauphiness to her German waiting-maid, " what an omen \" Her attendants were sent back, as is the custom ; she wept a great deal at parting from them, and gave them an infinity of messages for the empress, for the archduchess, her sisters, and for her friends at Vienna. She was then attired in the French fashion, in magnificent dresses sent from Paris. THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 43 She looked a thousand times more charming in her change of costume. Apartments were prepared for her in the Episcopal palace, where the old cardinal de Rohan had the honour of receiving her. When she alighted the good citizens thought it their duty to address her in a long speech in German, but she interrupted them with astonishing presence of mind, saying — " Don't speak German, gentlemen ; from this day I know no language but French.'' The expression with which she spoke these words made them still more touching ; everybody was impressed then. Alas ! their influence is now no longer felt. The dauphiness is daughter of Francis Stephen, duke of Lorraine and Bar, who died in 1765, and of the celebrated Maria Teresa, archduchess of Austria, queen of Hungary and Bohemia, on the throne since the 29th October 1780. M. Durfort asked her in marriage for the dauphin the 16th of April 1770. The 17th she solemnly renounced all her hereditary claims, paternal as well as maternal. On the 19th the marriage ceremony was performed in the Augustinian convent, the archduke Ferdinand representing the dauphin (who became king four years after in 1774). Marie Antoinette left Vienna on the 21st, at a quarter to nine in the morning, and arrived at Strasburg on 44 MEMOIRS OP the 7th of May. His eminence cardinal Rohan, prince bishop of Strasburg, received her in his palace of Saverne ; a palace afterwards the resi- dence of Prince Louis, the unworthy nephew and successor of this venerable prelate, for whom his follies, together with the unfortunate affak of the necklace, have gained so undesirable a celebrity. The 14th of May the king met the archduchess in the forest of Compiegne, and on the 15th she was married in the chapel of the castle. I will often have occasion to speak of this noble princess, whom I had frequently the honour of approaching, and whose croodness I can never forg-et. After my journey to Strasburg we returned to Montb^liard, where we passed all the summer, with the exception of a few excursions to Schweighausen, which I contrived to shorten as much as possible. In November I went again to the city, but returned to Montb^liard in December to be present at the celebration of the birthday of the princess. On the evening of this happy day, Charles the reigning duke of Wurtemberg arrived ; he was not expected. We had played a thousand games with the permission of their royal highnesses. We were about com- mencing " Blindj-7)ian s Buff" in which the entire court was to take part, with the exception of the baron and baroness of Boreck, the two most singidar persons that I met during my youth. They were a THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 45 living representation of Philemon and Baucis, loving each, other extremely ; they never hesitated to express their affection as freely before the princes as if they were alone, calling each other " my love " and " my heart,'' and even as Prince Frederick told me (I never heard this), " my duck " and " my pet/' On this evening they played backgammon with the baron de Wurmser, grand huntsman, and baron Sch wager, bishop in partibus, high almoner to the Duke Frederick Eugene. These primitive people were often opposed as partners in the game, and then always made signs to each other without the slightest idea of doing anything dishonest. We annoyed them very much by our laughter, and by grotesque shadows which we contrived to cast upon the wall. In the midst of all this confusion, an ojSficer all bewildered bursts suddenly into the room and announces his royal highness. You may easily believe that the masqueraders quickly laid aside their humps, horns, masks, &c. The duke delighted in surprises, and always came unex- pectedly. The countess of Wartensleben, who was sitting next to me, was employing all her ingenuity to free me from the di'sguise in which I was to have represented the devil, but the strings seemed deter- mined not to untie ; the Princess Dorothea laughed excessively at my embarrassment ; I was very angry. At last we had the good fortune to accomplish our 46 MEMOIRS OF task before the duke observed us. The countess of Wartensleben, nee de Linas, was a very charming woman, beautiful, witty, and refined ; the princess loved her very much, and frequently invited her to Montbeliard. The arrival of the reigning duke was an excuse for fetes as splendid as the limited resources of this retired country would allow. Standards, bearing the arms of Wurtemberg, quartered with those of Montbeliard, floated from every eminence. The Montbeliard quarterings are, a field azure, two fishes or embowed. These fishes must not be con- founded with dolphins. Every lamp, torch, and candle in the town was lighted. The Baron de Boreck, who had some pre- tensions as a punster, said that these were indeed enlightened rejoicings ; at which witticism, his chaste better half, laughed immoderately. All who could display a silken dress or coat of barbacan came in procession to pay their resjDects to his royal highness. The thi'ee divisions of the ma- gistracy presented wdth great ceremony a list of grievances, which the duke received graciously, and promised to consider. In the evening he said to the prince of Mont- beliard, " I am very much changed, and I am very glad of it ; long ago I would have laughed at these good people who seem more ridiculous to me than THE BARONESS D'oBERKIRCH. 47 your children did the other day at ' Blind-mans Buff,' but to-day I was as grave as the honest folk themselves. Besides, they are in the right, and I must attend to their demands/' The public audience lasted from nine in the morning until seven in the evening. His high- ness heard all with patience, and none were refused but those who asked for something absurd. I remember one poor peasant woman, who requested that the bells would not be allowed to toll, as it caused her cream to turn sour. On the day of his departure, the reigning duke again received the magistracy, to whom he was still more gracious than on the former occasion. He had reflected, his discourse was touching, per- suasive, and paternal. All were affected even to tears, and we, young creatures that we were, wept with the others without knowing why. At noon, he departed in his carriage for Stuttgard, and his possessions beyond the Rhine. The cavalry of the town escorted him to the frontiers of the comtd of Montb^liard. All were delighted with him, espe- cially the Princess Dorothea, to whom he had pre- sented a very handsome ring. The kindness of this dear princess for me neither time or distance has been able to change. I loved her passionately, as indeed did every person who knew her, and nobody ever merited affection more than she. She 48 MEMOIRS OF was unaffected, witty, without the least pretension, free from all coquetry, and, above all, gifted with the gentlest disposition. She made no secret of her affection for me, and always called me Artiie, no matter who may be present. When I was absent, she wrote to me constantly begging me to return ; she could not exist without me, nor, indeed, I without her ; if I may be allowed so to express myself, considering the high respect I bear her. The princess, her mother, had the greatest confidence in me. She wished me to be constantly with her daughter ; and notwithstanding the dif- ference of our ages, our amusements were in com- mon. " My dear Lanele,'' said she to me, " you are sensible, and studious, and I would be very glad to give you as a model to my daughter ; she loves you so much that she will feel pleasure in imitating you." I have before told, that I was canoness of a Protestant chapter, which had the same claims to nobility and the same customs as Catholic chap- ters. I was, therefore, called the Countess Hen- riette de Waldner. Why I was called Lane, or Lanele, I ^vill now tell. Indeed, giving soubriquets was a custom at Montbeliard, which displeased Madame Boreck, who said truly, that it was very ill-bred. Our only gratitude for her advice was, to bestow a name upon herself We called her my ' THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 49 Lady Carcasso, for which may God forgive us! She was frightfully thin, and was constantly telling us of an Englishman that she had known when she was young, whom she called Milord Carcasso. It could not have been his name, or anything like it. No Englishman, no Christian, could have such a name as Carcasso. My surname of Lane, or Lanele, arose from a disguise that I wore during the carnival. I was dressed as a Catalane, and they were kind enough to say that I performed my part very well. For several days everybody called me Catalane. The youngest of the little princes, who was only begin- ning to speak, could not pronounce the entire word ; and, therefore, contented himself with the termination, and having great affection for me, he was constantly calling Lane ! Lane I The Princess Dorothea changed it into Lanele, and thus I was baptized for the remainder of my life in the house of Montbeliard. From all this it may be perceived that I passed a great part of my time at Montbeliard ; it was become a second home for me, and I was loved and looked upon as a child of the house. I was still there on 24th of April 1771, when the prin- cess's seventh son was born (he was called Alex ander Frederick Charles*). The union of the * Prince Alexander, married to the Princess Antoinette VOL. I. E 50 MEMOIRS OF princes of Moiitbeliarcl was certainly blessed by heaven, and notwithstanding the number of their children, each additional one was received with as much joy as if it had been the first-born. All the principality, both poor and rich, shared in the happiness of their rulers. H.S.H. celebrated this happy event by opening the theatre at Etupes, to our great delight. We were permitted to establish ourselves at Etupes, with Madame Boreck and several other grave ladies of the court, until the perfect recovery of the princess, wlien our amusements were to commence. We preferred the chateau of Etuj^es and its deli- cious gardens to any residence in the world. One might enjoy there the same ease and freedom as in the house of a rich private person who would wish to see all around him gay and happy. How well I remember those gardens, which are even more beautiful now than they were then, the trees being higher, and the buildings having lost that extreme whiteness which shocks the eye, according to M. Tronchin, of Geneva, who is considered an authority on these matters. The arrangements are perfect ; the orangery is considered one of the most beautiful in Germany. But one of its gTeatest of Saxe Coburg, was father of the Duke Alexander of Wurtemberg born in 1804, married 1837 to the Princess Mary of Orleans, who died in 1839. THE BAROXESS D'OBERKIRCH. 51 charms is a small temple (a happy idea of the princess) formed of rose-trees : the most delicious place in the world for reading or conversation. The dairy is built a la Suisse, ornamented with su23erb vases of fa^enza, a kind of ware made in the sixteenth century, which, though coarsely painted, is very much prized by connoisseurs for its correct drawing and beautiful designs. I would much prefer the pretty Saxon porcelain to these old earthen vases, but it appears that these latter are rarer. The grottoes are encrusted with very curious stalactites, which sparkle like diamonds when these |)laces are illuminated. There are several of these grottoes on artificial islands, in the river, which are connected by Chinese bridges. In the park is a triumphal arch, erected in honour of Frederick the Great, supported by Corinthian pillars, of which the bases and capitals were brought from the ruins of Mondau, formerly Epomandarum, a village in the comt^ of Mont- b^liard, to the south of the town. During the eight days immediately preceding the commencement of our theatrical amusements, we (to use the biblical language of M. de Boreck) tabernacled in the soi-disant hut of a wood-burner, isolated in the midst of a forest. Its exterior corresponded exactly with its designation, but within, thanks to the princess it was the per- E 2 52 MEMOIRS OF fection of refinement. The furniture, simple and elegant, had been ordered from Paris, and though destined for a rustic dwelling, gave undoubted proofs of the good taste which had directed its selection. The Princess Dorothea was so delighted with this romantic cottage, that she declared we should sleep there if it were only for one night. When Madame Hendel heard of this arrangement, she hooted like an owl, declaring that it would be an eternal disgrace to the reigning house. How- ever, she was obliged to submit ; but for many years after, when her young mistress had become grand-duchess of Russia, she would point with a tragic air to the cottage, saying, — " To think that the future empress of all the Moscovies had slept there I" Besides our favoured hut, we had many other amusements to wile away the time. There was a temple dedicated to Flora, whose statue we used to crown with garlands of wild-flowers. We made bowling-greens of the grass plots (to the horror of the gardeners), and many long and happy hours we spent in the aviaries, listening to the warbling of the birds, and feeding them with bread, cake, and fresh herbs. We taught parrots to speak ; and what ridiculous things the young princes used to make them repeat ! Afterwards, when the family were dispersed, a column was erected in a retired and shady part of THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 53 the grounds, and dedicated to " The Absent," whose initials were engraved upon it. How often the princess of Montb^liard and I have stood before this monument of affection, speaking with tears of her who was never to return ! It is a painful con- dition annexed to the high position of princes, that their natural sentiments and affections must often yield to political reasons. The Princess Dorothea would have been too happy if she could have remained near her mother. She was forced to purchase one blessing by the sacrifice of another ; and often amidst the pomp of St. Petersburg she resetted the retired home where she had been so much beloved. She has often done me the honour of saying to me, that if she had the power of choosing between her splendid destiny and the happiness of living obscurely at Etupes with her husband and parents, she would not hesitate for a moment ; so little influence had ambition over her mind. The day after our arrival at Etupes, as we were looking at the milking of the cows, a page came to tell the Princess Dorothea that a hermit who had lately come to live at the hermitage begged that she would do him the honour of paying him a visit. \ " Immediately ?" said she. ^' Immediately, if your highness wisL 3ii. 54 MEMOIRS OF "He is waiting for me ; and what shall I do Avith my cream ?" " If your highness could eat it as you walk along ?" " Or rather carry it to the hermit. Come, Lanele, it is some trick of my brothers, but I will let them see that I can repay them/' The bell of the hermitage (which was situated on a rising ground, and which was a gTeat addition to the beauty of the scenery) tolled without ceasing. The page, count of AVartensleben (son of the countess of Wartensleben, of whom I have already spoken, and captain in Anhalt), walked before us very gravely, and replied to the questions of the princess only ^vith " Her highness shall see," which annoyed us very much. We arrived at last, ex- pecting to find there a troop of waggish young jDrinces, but with what astonishment and respect we drew back when we saw before us the Duke Charles, who always found such pleasure in taking us by surprise. He was now come to inquire into the affairs of the province, and remained with us until the following August. Amongst other things with which he had occuj^ied himself during this time, was a law which he framed concernino' agfri- culture, for which he was blessed by the entire population. This little state mil be sure to have a well-ordered government now that H.S.H. has THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 55 turned his attention to the consideration of public affairs. The most important personage of the ma- gistracy is the bailhe, next the chancellor, then follow the councillors or members of the regency, whose number is unlimited, and last of all the procureur-general. The councillors formerly wore robes half yellow and half black, which were the colours of the house of Wurtemberg. All these lesser wheels of the government worked admirably under the immediate authority of the reigning duke. (It was afterwards that he appointed his brother stadtholder.) These gradations of autho- rity commencing with the people, and ending with the ruler, seems to me perfectly well organized. What more could one wish for ? All this time I have said nothing of our little comedy. I must now return to it. The duke was very amiable in his hermitage, and wishing to play his part to the end, he offered to tell our for- tunes. " You, my niece, will be married to an old elector, one-eyed and lame, who will not allow you to receive any visitors, and your entire court will be composed of apes, that your husband may appear handsome by contrast. You, Countess Henrietta, will remain a canoness, or you may be married to the prime minister of the elector, who will be withered and toothless, and who will go 56 MEMOIRS OF rabbit-hunting in a wheelbarrow, with you knitting beside him/' " Can your reverence see anything else ?" asked the princess, laughing. " I see a very brilliant star, which, I think, is yours, but it is a falling star, your friend's shines beneath. Really there never was seen so great an attraction between stars." " Oh ! that is because I love Lanele so well,'' said this adorable 23rincess, embracing me. The duke remained with us all the evening, and came to see us almost every day, until the opening of our theatre. The dancers were sent from Vienna. The j^iece chosen was the ballet of Medea, com- posed some years before by M. Noverre. This ballet had been originally performed at the court of Stuttgard by the celebrated Yestris, so that the duke knew it and admired it exceedingly. He regretted YestrLs very much, for the dancers from Yienna were far inferior to this celebrated artis-te. To us, ignorant peasants of Alsace, they were magnificent. No performance ever amused me so much ; the remembrance of it can never be effaced from my mind ; first impressions are so vivid.^ I still remember the dress I wore ; it was a beautiful quesaco. Madame de Boreck said that I emanated from the spirit of my dress. " You think that the dress of the Countess THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 57 Henrietta has a spirit, madam, and that she has a separate existence besides ; that is very fortunate, for I know a great many persons whose only exist- ence is in their dress/' The person who said this was M. de Beroldengen, dean of the chapter of Murbach, who was a man of refined wit, and somewhat inclined to epicurism, which latter quality he contrived to render unno- ticed by his witty conversation. He often came to Montbeliard with the prince of Rathsamhausen, abbe of the united chapters of Murbach and Lure. This latter died in '86, in the odour of sanctity. He was good and tolerant, as became a true mi- nister of God, to whatever communion he may belong. I remember once that the baron de Wurmser related before him the sad tale of M. de Bombelles, and that he reproved him with mildness and firmness. As I am not a saint, I may tell this story, of which the authenticity is much disputed. I have learned many of the details of this affair during my visits to Paris, where I was very inti- mate with the Bombelles family, who most certainly were calumniated on this occasion. People will give a decided judgment, though it is almost im- possible to know all the oninor circumstances of any case, which, however trifling they may be in themselves, would, if known, justify what other- wise seems unjustifiable. 58 MEMOIRS OF The public papers tell that an officer of the Piedmont regiment, the viscomit of Bombelles, had married some years before, somewhere in the in- terior, a Protestant young lady. The marriage ceremony was performed in both churches, and the lady and gentleman lived together for some time, when the gentleman unexpectedly marries another, saying that his first marriage was not binding, in consequence of the laws passed against the Pro- testants. If this be really the fact (I merely relate it to show that I was not ignorant of what was taking place around me), there may be some powerful reasons of which the public are ignorant, that would explain and perhaps excuse this extraordi- nary affair. Circumsta^nces are sometimes stronger than our inclinations. I neither approve nor blame ; my conscience and my position could not permit me to do either. It is said, however (to be im- partial one must tell everything), that the council of the military school where M. de Bombelles has been educated, have been greatly annoyed by these reports, and that they have written to him in the name of the school, expressing their sorrow and indignation for such conduct, feeling that the dis- grace attending it would in some measure fall upon them, and requesting that, if public report were correct, that he would not again present himself THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 59 amono'st tLem, I cannot believe all this. The Bombelles family, with whom we are acquainted, and who possess many fiefs in Alsace, is one of the most honourable and respectable families that I know. It would give me great pain to think that its honour should receive so deep a wound. Thanks to heaven and to Louis XVI., such things cannot happen again ; the edict by which the validity of Protestant marriages is recognised is one of the ofreatest benefits which this wise and virtuous mo- narch has conferred upon his people. We Alsa- tians never had anjrthing to fear on this account, the treaty by which Alsace was reunited to France having secured all our rights. We did not, on that account, feel the less pleasure at the justice granted to our brethren in the other provinces, as every- thing concerning the Protestant religion is of equal importance to all its members. 1772. — At this time a great many visitors came to Montbeliard, whose names it will give me plea- siu-e to recall. The memories of one's youth are like preserved flowers ; one loves to breathe their faint perfume, to revive those faded hues that were once so beautiful and fresh. I would not have much confidence in any person who would have an objection to review the past ; it would seem to me as if memory could only bring them remorse. One of the persons whose appearance struck me 60 MEMOIBS OF most was the baron de Glaubitz. He was tall, and had been as handsome as the god of day (as some ladies tell who were acquainted with him formerly). He still retained many traces of this beauty, when I saw him, although he was then nearly sixty years of age. His teeth were very good. During his journey he stopped some days at Belfort, where he had been present at some discussion which took 23lace between the dependents of the duchess of Mazarin and those of the duke of Wurtemberg He related this affair, mingled with various anec- dotes of Madame de Mazarin, in the most amusing manner possible. She had made an exchange with the duke of the dues and revenues that they respectively j)ossessed in the different villages and the Alsatian territories in the comte of Montb^- liard. This arrangement, which had been sanc- tioned by the king, and concluded by the duke's giving up his claims in these places, was the cause of much embarrassment between the inferior agents of these two powers, who pretended that it was due to the honour of their masters that they should not yield. I have often heard H.S.H. complain very much of this. Madame de Mazarin, nee Durfort de Duras, is daughter of a Laporte-]\Iazarini, last heiress of this family and of this title. She was married to the duke Yillequier, son of the duke d'Aumont, and THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 61 brought to him the duchies Meilleraye and Maza- rin, from which they take their title. The duchess is certainly one of the most singular women of this century. She was handsome, but her beauty seemed only to serve as a foil for that of others ; she was tall, and strong as a caryatide. Her shoulders were bent, as if under a great pressure. M. de Wittgenstein (he was then colonel, but has since become general of Anhalt) used to say that she was stooping under her own weight. She had a great deal of wit, and an immense fortune, both of which she lavished unsparingly, and was only laughed at in return. M. de Wittgenstein pos- sessed a talent for refined and delicate raillery, which was duly appreciated at Montb^liard. There were also there several general officers and some other persons, in consequence of the assembling of several regiments near Bel fort to exercise their men, for some reason or other that I forget. We had the baron de Reinbach (colonel of the regi- ment of Alsace, under M. de Wurmser ; the gene- ral de Strahlenheim, by birth a Swede, brave as a lion ; and the old General Oberheim, who is still alive, and may live for ever if time continues to treat him as gently as heretofore ; the old General Wangen, who had been colonel of the regiment of Alsace ; and many others. For several days the conversation in the drawing-room of Etupes was 62 ]\IEMOIRS OF entirely on military affairs. The baron d'Oben- lieim, who had been musketeer in 1722, enter- tained us with an account of the Marshal de Ber- wick. Another, M. de Hartmans (whose name I forgot to mention before), major in the Swiss regi- ment of Jenner, told how he had been wounded in 1759. A third (the Baron Christian de Glaubitz) had been imprisoned in Frauenburg and Embs- dorff in '41 and in '60. We felt more pleasure in looking at this latter gentleman than in listening to him. There was a long discussion about the order of military merit instituted in '59, by Louis XY., to recompense his Protestant subjects, as the cross of St. Louis could only be given to Catholics. This order has three grades of dignity : " The Grand Cross," " Commanders," and " Knights." On this occasion everybody spoke in the highest terms of my uncle the count de Waldner, who, mth the prince of Nassau-Saarbruck, was the first grand cross appointed by the king, although he was at that time only marshal-de-camp. This distinguished honour was still more enhanced by the flattering expressions with which Louis XY. accompanied it. " In instituting this order, M. le count," said he to him, " it was of you I was thinking." The Baron Diesken and Baron Wurrnser had been created commanders of the order at its insti- THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 63 tution. Four grand crosses had been appointed since. 1759 — Baron Waldner. 1743 — Baron Wurmser, 1770 — Prince Anhalt Coethen. 1770 — Baron d'Erlach of Biggisby. The rank and honours are the same as in the order of St. Louis. The ribbon is blue, the cross gold enamelled with white, and bears a sword en pal. The motto — " Pro virtute bellica.'' I hope I will be pardoned this digression, it came almost involuntarily from my pen, at the mention of this order of which we Protestants are so justly proud. I can assure you that I felt extremely flattered and delighted by the manner in which so many men of distinguished rank and merit spoke of my uncle, and my father and I determined to pay him a visit at his chateau d'Ollwillon. It was with great difficulty that Ave were permitted to leave ]^»Iontbeliard, and the Princess Dorothea would scarcely speak to me the day before our departure. However, we were reconciled before I left, on condition that I should return in eight days. I felt quite low-spirited on setting out, but my grief was soon forgotten in the amusement excited by two very grotesque-looking Jews that I saw on the bridge at Montb^liard. (It requires but little to dry the tears of youth.) They 64 MEMOIRS OF had two parallel strokes of white chalk on each oi theu^ hats, I asked one of our servants if he knew the reason : — " That means, Mademoiselle la comtesse/' said he, " that they have paid six sous nine deniers ; a tax imposed on the Jews for passing this bridge/' Poor Jews ! they must pay for everytliing ; but they know how to regain their money with interest. This nation, with its eternal brand, is a living proof of the truth of the Gospel ; and I cannot comprehend why they do not become converts to Christianity. To believe they need only look upon themselves. Ollwillon is a magnificent chateau, and one of the finest domains of Alsace. My uncle had it rebuilt before I was born, so that I never saw the ancient chateau. It is situated in the centre of Soultz. M. de Walduer was married in IT-iS to Mademoi- selle Heusse de Vologer (she was a year older than he), daughter of the marquis de Yologer, a very rich fermier-g^n^ral, whom the king had raised to a marquisate. She brought my uncle a very large fortune, which had enabled him to rebuild his ancestral castle. I hope that I \\dll be pardoned if I say a few words more of this count de Waldner, of whom I do not think it too much to assert that he is not only an honour to our family, but also to our province ; THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 65 and I think it may be permitted to his niece to speak of his talents and his services. I cannot "understand that false modesty which would not allow us to mention the nobler qualities of our relations, whilst it gives us full liberty to proclaim their defects. The Count Dagobert de Waldner, my father's second brother, is most undoubtedly a distinguished man. He is endowed, as well as his brothers, with a noble and handsome countenance, and looks extremely well in his military uniform, He was born in 1712, and entered the army at fourteen as ensign in the regiment of Pfiffer-Suisse. He raised a company in 1734, and in 1741 he was made captain of the regiment of Swiss guards. He distinguished himself at the sieges of Menin, Ypres, Fribourg, and Tournay, and also in the battle of Lafeld. In 1755 he became second colonel, and in two years after, by the death of M. de Wittener, full colonel of the regiment which he commanded at the battle of Busbach. He was appointed marshal-de-camp in 1758, and lieu- tenant-general in 1762. I have already told how my uncle had been made grand cross of the order of military merit on the day of its institution bv Louis XV. in 1759. The king had already recompensed his services VOL. I. F 66 MEMOIRS OF by gTanting him, in 17^2, the title of count, trans- missible to my father should the Count Dagobert die without posterity ; which seems jery likely to hajDpen. I hope that these records of service — to use a military^ phrase — will not appear out of place in these memoirs. I speak but little of myself or my relatives except when I consider it absolutely ne- cessary for the clearness or authenticity of what I relate. This count de Waldner was the hero of my youth ; my young imagination had been excited by the fame of his deeds of aomis, his virtues, and his benevolence. I love him extremely, and I would wish that my daughter, in inheriting this sentiment, should know^ the source from which it sprung. We were very well received at Ollwillon^ where M. de Waldner held great state.* I was very happy there. They were thinking of giving a ball for me, when I received a letter from my dear Princess Dorothea scoldino^ me for having- exceeded my leave of absence, and announcing the birth of a young prince. This was her royal highnesses eighth son They wished me to be present at the baptism, and I was obliged to leave all the j)leasures of my uncle's chateau to comply with this invita- * The portrait of the count de Waldner may be seen in the portrait gallery of the historical museum at Ver- sailles. THE BAEOXESS d'oBERKIRCH. 67 tion. The child was called Henry Frederick Charles. He is now seventeen (1789), and is certainly a prince in every way remarkable. He is frank, affable, and possesses a very high sense of honour. On the day of his baptism I got a very heavy cold, although it was the month of July. The Princess Dorothea and I persisted in taking a walk in the garden although it rained in torrents, and both got wet in our feet. I have very good cause to remember that cold, for I was not completely rid of it for six months. We were both obliged to keep our room ; and I do not know how it hap- pened that our conversation should be about public affairs, and the aggrandizement of Russia by the division of Poland. I have already observed that the princess seemed to have a presentiment of her future dignity. She took more interest in this great northern power than in any other. Wc hazarded many profound conjectures, and dis- coursed very sensibly about this division, inter- rupted by sneezing and occasional draughts of barley-water. Amongst other persons, we spoke of a certain Muscovite gentleman, whose name I forget, but at the mention of which we always laughed immoderately, because it happened that every time the princess attempted to pronounce it she was seized with a violent fit of sneezing. He was fortunately dead at the time of her marriage, f2 68 MEMOIRS OF or he midit have caused her an eternal cold in the head. The total dissolution of the order of Jesuits by the Bull of Pope Clement XIV. was one of the most important events of the year '73. I will not make any reflection on this affair, as I do not consider myself competent to judge either of monks or of the Catholic religion. Louis XV. died, and Louis XVI. ascended the throne on the 10th of May 1774. This reign opened with the most brilliant prospects, in which the people of Alsace took particular interest in compliment to Marie Antoinette. However, the baron de Wurmser remarked, that the princesses of the house of Austria never brought good for- tune to France. The mourning for the king delayed for some time the introduction of a very ridiculous fashion which usurped the place of the qitesaco. This was the 2^oiLf au sentiment. It was a head-dress, into which may be introduced the likeness of any person or thing for which one may feel affection, such as a miniature of one's daughter or mother, a picture of a canary or a dog, &c., &c,, adorned with the hair of a father or of a beloved friend. It was a most incredible piece of extravagance. We were determined to follow the fashion, and the Princess Dorothea once amused herself for an entire day by THE BAKONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 69 wearing on her ear the picture of a woman holding a bunch of keys, and which she declared was Madame Hendel. The femme-cle-charge thought it a striking likeness, and was almost out of her senses with pride and joy. 1775. The princes of Montb^liard were very much annoyed by the conduct of the margrave of Baruth, who, to the great scandal of the entire nobility, had brought from Paris Mademoiselle Clairon, an actress, to be governess to his children, Her royal highness could not repress her in- dignation. " Is there no means," said she, " of restraining that foolish old man ? Must we submit to see the affairs of the margraviate, and the education of the young princes, placed in the hands of a fille de the- atre, who has already shown what she is capable of.'' " But she can at least teach them to wear a court dress, and to pronounce a harangue correctly, madam," said the prince, who wished to teaze her a little. " Fie, sir," said she, "you ought rather to be ashamed than to laugh at it, for he is your ally. What ! Melpomene for prime minister ! She who has been constantly exciting quarrels in the green- room will most certainly set the whole principality by the ears. But the margrave will only get what he deserves." 70 MEMOIRS OF At this moment M. de Wurmser entered mth a mournful piece of intelligence, which caused this affair to be forgotten for some days. The duke of Deux-Ponts had been killed at the chase some days before, the stag having unexpectedly turned, and darting on him, killed him on the spot. This prince was very much regretted, and particularly on account of the manner of his death. Her royal highness the princess of Montbeliard, however, could never entirely forgive his having embraced the Catholic religion. She never mentioned this subject before the prince, but often spoke largely of it when we were alone. Christian III., duke of Deux-Ponts, was descended from the house of Berkenfeld. His father, duke of Berkenfeld, succeeded to Deux-Ponts as Christian 11. in 1734. The succession had been disputed by the prince palatine, but the dispute was settled by arbi- tration. The duke. Christian III., was succeeded as prince of Deux-Ponts by his nephew. This was a year of accidents. A duel occurred in Strasburg, in which we felt great interest, as we were acquainted with both parties concerned. The baron de Pirch, several years before this event, had left the Prussian service, for some reason of which I am ignorant, and entered that of France. He was a man of great talent and extensive THE BAROXESS D'OBERKIRCII. 71 information, and who seemed to be destined for a brilliant career. He has written several valuable works on military tactics. He was at the time of which I speak captain in the regiment of Anhalt, garrisoned in Strasburg. One of his brother officers, jealous it is said of his talents and position, sought a quarrel with him, the consequence of which was a duel, in which the baron was danger- ously wounded. Fortunately he did not die, and his adversary was overwhelmed with the reproaches and contempt of everybody. We admired Baron Pirch very much ; his manners were so dignified and refined ; and he was constantly cited as a model for the young nobles. This passion for fighting duels has caused a great deal of sorrow in France ; how many children has it not torn from their mothers ! how many husbands from their wives ! The idea of honour which is an- nexed to it cannot be easily argued away, and we are forced to submit to that which we cannot overcome. During this interval I had made many journeys, with my father to Schweighausen, of which I do not think it necessary to speak farther. I abridge these years of my youth that I may arrive the sooner at a more interesting portion of my life, when I was acquainted with many eminent and illustrious persons. However, our little court at 72 IMEMOIRS OF Montbeliard possessed more chamis and interests than at first would appear possible. But the time is coming when I will have other things to speak of. THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 73 CHAPTER IV. Strasburg — Duke d'Aiguillon, Marshal Contades, Baron Lort, M. de Marzy - Madame Berekheim — M. de Dietrich — M. and Madame Franck — Luxury of Prince Heyder- scheim — Chapter of OUmarsheim — Mademoiselle de Flachsland — Fashionable colours — Lavater's letter — I send him my silhouette— Consecration of the bishop of Basle — Hereditary charge of Rothberg — House of Wangen — M. Gothe writes to me — Strange letter from M. Lavater — My marriage — Baron Oberkirch — Messrs. de Wurmser — I write to Princess Dorothea — Conver- sation with my father — Interview — Kindness of the princes of Wurtemberg — The wedding day — M. de Turckheim — The dowager baroness Oberkirch, oiee de Buch — Another letter from M. Lavater — Marriage of Princess Dorothea — Negotiation of Prince Henry of Prussia — His connection with Catherine IL — The Grand- duke Paul Petrowitz sets out for Berlin — Departure of the princess — Sad adieus — She writes to me the day of her interview with the prince — Her letter— She is re- baptized and called Mary Fcederowna — Nuptials — Another letter from the grand-duchess — She sets out for St. Petersburg — She writes again to me — Charming letter — Return of her parents to Montbeliard — Touching episode — Letter of M. Wieland, My father wished to go to Strasburg this year, 1776. We were delighted with our visit ; the society was of the highest fashion, numerous and exceedingly gay. I began to love balls and fetes ; it was natural at my age ; however, I have never 7^ MEMOIRS OF transgTessed the bounds of the severe morality in which I was educated, nor swerved for a moment from the hereditary dignity of my family. "We Protestants are accused of stiffness ; we certainly set a high value upon reserve in the conduct of women, and strict moral principles. We are con- vinced that the purest happiness is to be found in domestic life, in a close adherence to the rules of honour, and a solemn respect for the holiness of the marriage tie. We are perhaps on that account less fascinating, but more trustworthy. The duke d'Aiguillon, governor of the province of Alsace, was not resident. The marechal de Contades, commander-in-chief, came sometimes. We often saw the baron de Lort, the king's lieu- tenant at Strasburg, commander of St. Louis and of St. Lazare. We had a very fine house, and entertained respectably. M. de Marzy, brigadier, commander of the military school, cared only for the society of military men ; we met at his house all the officers of the garrison. In our own family we had a great deal of society ; first Monsieur and Madame Berekheim de Schop- penw3rr. Monsieur de Berekheim was captain in the regiment of Alsace. He was my uncle after the fashion of Bretagne, being cousin-german to my mother. Madame de Berekheim was a Glaubitz. Monsieur Jean (Jio'rs) de Dietrich, eldest son of THE BARONESS d'OEERKIRCH. 75 the baron de Dietrich, whose wife was also a Glaubitz. M. and Madame Franck, bankers, were on an equality with the first people in the city, and went into the best society. Our nobility are, however, very exclusive, and justly so ; they are one of the oldest aristocracies in Europe. I shall often have occasion to speak of these excellent Francks, who have rendered good service to their country. My father was at that time very busy as Pre- sident of the Directory of the resident nobility of rOrtenau ; however he found time to visit the grand prior of Malta at Heydersheim. The baron de Waldner was commander of the order of St. John, and etiquette required him to offer this attention to the highest dignitary of the order in Germany. He had, from different causes, long delayed this visit, perhaps it was that I retained him at Montb^liard where I went often, and stayed as long as possible. The grand prior went to Heydersheim, in Brisgau ; the city belonged to him, having been given to the order of St. John of Jerusalem by the margrave of Baden-Hochberg, in 1296. He bears the title of prince of Heydersheim, and sits at the Diet as ecclesiastical prince immediately after the abbot de Murbach. He claims the sovereignty of the subjects of the grand priory, but the house of Austria contests the claim. 76 MEMOIRS OF There is one thing very clear, that if the grand prior furnishes his contingent to the empire, and sends part of the revenue of his offices to Malta, he still reserves the greater part for himself, for he is very rich, and distingiiished for his splendour through all Germany, where he spends a great deal of money.* During the absence of my father I made a most agreeable visit, for which I had his permission. I went to pass iny widoivhood at Altkirch, at the noble chapter of Oltmarskeim. Mde. de Flachs- land, who was abbess since 17'^7, was one of my mother's dearest friends, and she every year asked me to visit her. I met there charming young per- sons amongst the canonesses, who all bore the title of baroness. They practised a thousand endearing arts to induce me to remain longer ^^Ai\\ them. These eight days were passed in walking, in ex- amining the remains of Roman antiquities, in sing- ing and laughing a great deal, and even in dancing, for they saw a great deal of society at the abbey ; but above all, in speaking of the newest fashions. I was questioned very closely about my toilette. The baronesses wore high plumes upon their heads, a style of coiffure which suits only tall women ; the chins of the smaller ladies ajDpeared midway * He died the following year, and the count de Reinsch de Foussemagne was elected in his stead. THE BAE0XES3 d'OBEEKIKCH. 77 between their feet and the tij)s of these nodding plumes. The colours then in fashion were what was called cheveuo: de la reine ; this was a pale OTev and a bro\Miish violet, first worn bv her ma- jesty, and which the king said resembled a puce (flea). That shade of colour still retains the name^ though it varied for some time between cuisse de puce, verdre de puce, dos de^juce.^ All that is so French. The abbess, amiable and witty, though she was no lons^er vouno-. lested with us about these serious things. On arriving at Strasburcr^ after biddino- a tender farewell to mv new friends. I found a letter which interested me very much, and of which I was quite proud. It was from ^L Lavater, a Protestant mi- nister at Zmich, who had devoted much time to tracuig the relation which exists between the tem- per, the sentiments of the soid, and the features of the human countenance. He had been at EtujDes the previous auttmin, and my friends had spoken to him of me in a most flatterinu" manner. Here is the letter : — > " Dare I (am I to speak as an acquaiatance or as a strano-er ?) ask vou a favour, and a benefit, ex- * TTe fear that a literal translation of these terms would be too broad for English ears. It is sufficient to sav that the shade retains still the name of puce colour. 78 IMEMOIRS OF cellent countess ? All good people are connected by invisible and indissoluble bonds. They feel an inclination to love and to become acquainted "vvith one another ; and when they cannot meet person- ally they at least give each other a description of their respective features. You assuredly know what worship I have vowed to the physiognomy of wise and virtuous persons. Thus, without fur- ther preamble, will I pray your noble and good heart to send me your silhouette,* correctly and faithfully drawn, persuaded already that you will find a pleasure in doing that which will cause me so great a happiness. Let me only see a means of doing you, in my turn, the slightest service. "J. G. Lavater. "Zuricli, nth February 1776." It is scarcely necessary to say that this letter was written in German, and that this is a literal translation. I did not think that I ought to re- fuse my silhouette, and my father permitted me to send it. M. Lavater was seldom mistaken. I have known instances where his opinion was won- derfully correct. It was very interesting to hear him explain his doctrine which was perfectly clear and easily understood. He pointed out at Etupes the evil disposition of a confidential servant, and * A profile likeness in black. THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 79 the event justified the trutli of his doctrine. The prince de Montbehard frequently cited this example, and believed in M. Lavater as firmly as in God. My father was at home before me, and received me with rapture. Whilst we were relating our respective adventures during the eight days of separation, there was announced Monseigneur the bishop of Basle, the baron de Wangen de Gerolds- eck, who came in person to invite us to his con- secration. It was to take place on the first of the approaching month of March. The bishop of Basle is a nobleman of high rank ; and it is worthy of remark that there exist in Alsace high ecelesi- astical dignities, notwithstanding the differences of religion wliich divide the country. The bishop of Basle is spiritual and temporal sovereign of this bishopric, which forms a pretty considerable prin- cipality. The city of Basle, which formerly made part of the bishopric, has embraced Calvinism, and is no longer under the authority of the bishop, who resides at Porentiery, the capital of this sovereignty since the reformation. This city lies on the frontiers of Alsace, and its cathedral has a chapter of eighteen noble canons. The next con- siderable city is Delemont. The bishop is in alliance with seven Swiss cantons, and is under the spiritual jurisdiction of the archbishopric of 80 MEMOIRS OF Besanqon. He ranks at the Diet before the bishop of Liege. The Rothbergs hold here a very important hereditary office. They fixed themselves in the neighbourhood of Basle in the tenth century, as well as the Flachslands and a branch of the Andlaus, after the Hungarians had laid waste and depopu- lated this country in the reign of Bodolph II. M. de Wangen is about fifty years of age— a worthy man, and devoted to his duties. When he will be consecrated, nothing more will remain for him to do but to take an oath before the emperor ; a ceremony which mil take place, as he told us, very shortly. By how many bonds is this country still connected with Germany ! The family of Wangen is one of the most ancient of Alsace, and was formerly one of the most powerful. The Emperor Sigismond bestowed upon the Wangens the castle of Geroldseck, and other fiefs of the house of that name which had just become extinct. Gerold, father-in-laAv of Charlemagne, had built this castle on one of the mountains of Yosges quite close to Saverne. The IDresent baron de Wangen is a general officer. He commanded the regiment of Alsace, and was wounded and made prisoner in the affair at Clos- tercamp in 1760, which obtained him the rank of field-marshal. THE BAROXESS d'OBERKIRCH. 81 If I linger a little too long over these records of ancient days, it is because that, if we are to credit general appearances, they are about to disappear for ever, and I would wish to conserve the remem- brance of them for myself and my children. Alas ! how saddening it is to think that soon, very soon, only slight traces of those ancient laws will remain which protected our ancestors, and beneath which they lived happy during so many centuries ! Every- thing here below passes away — everything is de- stroyed ; the best as well as the worst have their appointed term, good and ill are alike transient ; all flits rapidly beneath the eye of the Sovereign Master, who is alone immutable and eternal. A literary star must have presided over my destiny this year. M. Gothe sent me a copy of his ' Claudine,' which I have found as deeply affect- ing as his ' Werther.' I am an enthusiastic admirer of this poet : I have read his tragedy of ' Gotz de Berlichingen' at least twenty times, and always with fresh emotion. M. Gothe finished his studies at Strasburg, and was there when the dauphiness, our present beloved queen, passed through. I will insert here the letter which accompanied the copy of ' Claudine' — " I send you my ' Claudine ;' may it procure you an agreeable moment ! During my author-life (in VOL. I. Q 82 MEMOIRS OF other respects a wearying pathway), I have been fortunate enough to meet and to appreciate many worthy people, many noble minds, amongst whom I find a pleasure in classing you. It is for such in particular that I delight to describe what most deeply impresses my mind and heart ; by this you mil understand that I ^viite for you. I think I ought to send you these few lines, which I know you will receive with indulgence. May you live as happy as one ought to be with a heart like yours, and deio^n to number me alwavs among'st the most devoted of your servants. " GOTHE. " Weimar, 13th May 1776.^' I have neglected to say, and indeed I do not know how it could have escaped me — I have neglected then to speak of a journey that M. Gothe made to Montbeliard where I saw him, and offered him the tribute of admiration which he deserved. He was good enough to form an oj^inion of me of which I was unworthy. Every one was so kind to Lmiele at ]\rontb^liard ! They overwhelmed me with kind- ness, and spoiled me with so good a grace. Tears spring to my eyes when I think of it. Oh ! one could never again make such friends ; one must be young, in the first flush of the illusions and affections of youth, to form such attachments. I feel it every THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 88 day more and more, as Time's cold wing flitting by chills and hardens the heart. M. Lavater replied to me by a letter so strange that I did not know, and do not yet know, what to think of it. I had sent him a sketch of myself ; many others had done the like, and I attached no importance to this present, if it were one. I wrote him a polite letter. I am not capable of granting a favour ungraciously. M. Lavater has the reputation of being a pious and estimable minister ; the word pastor is underlined after his signature. I think then that his letter proves a want of good taste, or it is more probably the result of his mystic imagi- nation. However that may be, here is the letter. Let every one judge for himself: — '' The most delicious, dare I say mother, sister, friend ? how shall I thank you for your double gift, for your dear likeness ? Still, what is it ? Pardon me a bold request, but we give again to those to whom we have once given. I am not yet satisfied. I have your silhouette ; it is only a shadow ! which contains more and less truth than your miniature, (for what would not this latter express !) which I also wish to have, but it must be as close in the resem- blance and as finely executed as the gift which I received enclosed. I am frank, because I believe, I love, I hope — ever more and more. I say little, my G 2 84? MEMOIRS OF sentiments are profound. Oh ! that I cannot perfectly express all my thoughts, and say all that I feel " I kiss 3' our beneficent hand, " JoHx Gaspard Layater, " Pastor. "Zurich, 22nd March 1776." A lady of Versailles would certainly have amused herself with this " all that I feeV I contented myself mth not rephdng, and keeping to myself a circumstance that may throw ridicule upon a mi- nister of our religion. I had besides something else to do. ]\Iy marriage with INI. d'Oberkirch had been jDroposed, and I thought only of the solemn act which was to influence the remainder of my life, and which could not be treated too seriously. Messieurs de Wurmser, our relations, Avere the first who had thought of this alliance, and spoke of it to my father, who received the proposal favourably. M. d'Oberkirch had served under the orders of the elder. Christian, lieutenant-general, formerly com- mander of the regiment of Alsace. The younger, Frank de Wurmser, now brigadier, was then lieu- tenant-colonel of the same reoiment. Both Avere o capable of ap^oreciating the bravery and the moral qualities of M. d'Oberkirch, who besides was their relative through the Buchs. The noble families of THE BAROXESS d'oBERKIRCH. 85 Alsace are all connected. Frank de Wurmserwas also colonel of the regiment of foreign volunteers de Wurmser ; M. de Tort de St. Victor served under him as commanding-colonel. The Baron Siegfried d'Oberkirch, head of the Protestant branch of his family, appeared to all my family a suitable match. Descendants of knights who figured in the tournaments of the twelfth century, they possess the fief of Oberkirch in Lower Alsace. During several centuries they have ranked amongst the noble families governing Strasburg, and the title of princess has been borne by several ladies of this house, amongst others by two abbesses of Hohenbourg (Saint Odile). M. d'Oberkirch was handsome, though not re- markably so. He was of small stature, but of a highly distingue air, and a most amiable expres- sion of countenance. He had a good understand- ing, and as mucli information as a man could acquire who had entered the army so young. He was talked of in Strasburg as a model of perfect elegance, and it may be said that he led the fashion there, though he was forty years of age. Breveted ensign in 17*16, at eleven years of age, in the Boyal Swedish Regiment, it was only in 1719 that he commenced to serve in the regiment of Alsace. In 1758 he received a captain's com- mission in the Royal Deux-Ponts : he made four 86 MEMOIRS OF campaigns, and fought several battles. He received the cross of military merit in 1763, and quitted the service. He is one of the nobles of the council of the Chamber of Fifteen in the senate of the free city of Strasburg, as his ancestors have been from time immemorial. His father was also Stattmeister, that is to say, president of this senate, in 1748. There was here a sufficiency of honourable titles, so that on this point I had no fault to find ; but I felt some hesitation when I reflected on the differ- ence of age. I was still very young, he was forty ; he had mixed a great deal in the world, I was only entering into life : could he love me as I would wish to be loved ? Msij not the habits of soldier- life render it impossible for him to content himself in the narrow circle of domestic duties, mthout seeking amusements elsewhere ? I feared all that, though he pleased me, and precisely because he did please me were my fears so lively. I had re- marked him several times in the different circles where we met : my father spoke to me of him at this time. I observed him more closely ; I saw that he watched me, and I began to think that he was as much interested as I. Messieurs Wurmser sang me litanies in his praise from morning till night. I was inclined to believe them — so well in- clined that I did believe them, and I gave my consent. THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 87 My father embraced me when I said yes. He wept as he blessed me, and pronounced the name of my mother. What a solemn day was that ! I had pledged myself for ever — we were not people to retract our word. My father and I supped tete- a-tete ; we were silent and grave. My father's eyes were never once turned from my face : I was so disturbed that I could not restrain myself — I went over to kiss his hand. *' You will be happy/' my dear child, said he, " and if you take my advice, we will hasten to conclude our arrangements. I have remarked at all times that marriages, where the negotiations are protracted, never turn out well. I have ac- quainted the Messieurs Wurmser with your answer and mine ; they have already, in all probability, informed M. d'Oberkirch. Have you any objec- tion that he should be presented here to-mor- row i " None, fa,ther," I replied ; " I detest all forma- lities.'' " Well, then, to-morrow the interview shall take place ; to-morrow the important day and hour shall be decided. We will have to acquaint all our re- latives, and their highnesses at Montb^liard." " My dear father, if you will allow me, I would prefer going myself to announce my marriage to the duchess." 88 MEMOIRS OF " We will go together, my dear child, it is a duty/' Immediately after supper my father retired to his room. He was deeply affected, and almost ill. It had been proposed that I should spend part of the year with my mother-in-law ; this would be a great privation for my ]3oor father, who had been accustomed to have me always with him. As for me, I was young, and life presented to me a smiling perspective — a husband that would adore me, I was told, and that whom, my heart whispered, I would adore ; but my dear, dear father, who was to be henceforth alone for a gTeat part of the year, given up to his memories and his regrets, and who yet consented to what he believed would secure my happiness. How sublime are parents in this con- stant sacrifice of self, and how seldom do children make an adequate return 1 However, I slept little : at six in the morning I was up and dressed, and immediately commenced a letter to the Princess Dorothea. I related to her the whole progress of my projected marriage, my reflections, my tardy consent, and my intention of going to tell her all that de vive voix. As soon as my father was risen I went into his room ; he was pale, he had evidently suffered much. "'My dear father, are you tormented about me T I said ; " in that case M. d'Oberkirch is too THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 89 honourable not to release you from your pro- mise? " I was thinking that I, too, married a woman that I loved ; that that woman was your mother, and that she will not be witness of your happiness, my dear daughter/'' " But, father, she watches over and beholds us \" I never could comprehend why Catholics pray for the dead, as if it were not much more consoling to think that they pray for us. Immediately after dinner the Messrs. Wurmser arrived, bringing with them M. d'Oberkirch, more elegantly attired than usual, and not a whit less embarrassed than I — ^which is saying a great deal. We made each a profound salutation. The elder M. Wurmser took the baron by the hand, and pre- sented him to me in form as my future husband. " Madam," said my betrothed, with a simplicity that I considered a good omen, "you have made me very happy, and I hope that you will have no cause to regret it." As to me, I made no reply. I have always re- marked that betrothed brides are particularly stupid. My father took the Messieurs Wurmser to the other end of the drawing-room, under pre- tence of talking about business, and we were left alone. I began to recover myself, and M. d'Ober- kirch was no longer afraid of me. He spoke of 90 MEMOIRS OF different things, keeping still in view the point which he jDerhaps was as anxious to discuss as I. As I have already observed, he possessed much tact, and manoeuvred the matter very well. I wore a dress of puce-coloured brocade, I remember it perfectly well, and a little cliapeaii poiif which was then the highest of fashion. He complimented me on my dress, and immediately added : — " You study fashion, countess." "When I have time to think of it/' " Do you follow closely its varying whims f "Ohno.— But your ''I often anticipate them/' " So I have heard," I said, smiling, though my heart beat quick. " Does that displease you T " No, provided I be the first to whom the secret is communicated." " Countess, I hope that you do me the honour of reckoning on my politeness. Are you not mis- tress in your own house, and would your chief servant wear a dress which had not previously met your sanction?" I felt myself blush ; it was the sole expression of my approval. " My mother will have the honour of visiting 3^ou," continued he. " It is I who ought to pay her my respects." THE BARONESS D'oBERKIRCH. 91 m " Afterwards, I hope ; but at present, as only- one of us, alas ! has a mother, it is she who ought to visit you. She is so kind — she Avill love you so/' " Oh, I am inclined to love her as much as — '' I stopped short ; I was near saying something stupid. M. d'Oberkirch perceived it, and, like a of tact, took no notice. " I fear that you will not find Quatzenheim as agreeable as Schweighausen ; it is a dreary and desert place. My grandfather purchased this place on account of its importance and its revenues ; my father and mother found it always very dull. "And Oberkirch?" " Oberkirch is still worse : I never go there but during the hunting season. I have the weakness to love this exercise passionately. You will not, I hope, forbid it T' " Passionately \" resumed I, with a little pout, ■which, as it seems, did not displease him. " My dear madam, replied he quickly, if we converse in German we will understand one another better.'' It was unnecessary : he pleaded his suit, and I understood him perfectly. I went with my father to pass some days at Montbeliard to announce my happiness to the prince and princess ; both congratulated me sin- cerely. At my departure the duchess de Mont- 92 MEMOIRS OF beliard gave me a diamond aoraffe, and her auojust spouse presented me an aigrette ; but that wliich gave me most pleasure was that my dear princess clasped upon my arm her own portrait. I wept on receiving it. I knew that there were vague rumours of her marriage, and that it was possible that we might be soon deprived of her. She did not hide from me a single thought. I knew her timid joy, and the struggle that contending feehngs wrought within her heart. Nothing was yet de- cided ; she did not even know the name of her future husband ; she knew that he was one of the most illustrious princes in Europe, but of all further particulars she was ignorant. The day of my arrival at Strasburg, M. d'Ober- kirch brought me an elegant vis-a-vis, and the next day the marriage articles were signed. He sent me very beautiful presents. My mother-in- law gave me a necklace of pearls. The important day at length arrived. I was all bedecked with English lace. I wore a dress of Venetian point over a white watered slip. M. d'Oberkirch was so exquisitely dressed that every tongue was loud in his praise. His coat of light blue, embroidered with gold, attracted universal admhation. My father wished that he should appear in his uniform, but it was decided that that was impossible. THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 93 Amongst the persons present at my marriage were, as a matter of course, my excellent uncle the baron de Berekheim de Ribecauville, second brother of my mother, and married to a Ratham- hausen. He was the best of men. He hastened to us at the first intimation of my marriage. He had always felt deeply obliged to my father for not having married a second time. M. de Berek- heim de Leyrath, his eldest brother, and my god- father, counsellor of the regency of Baden, whose wife was a Glaubitz. There was also present M. de Turckheim, gentleman in waiting to his highness the duke of Saxe- Weimar. He came direct from Weimar, and brought me intelligence of M. Gothe, who sent his respects and best wishes for my happiness. On leaving the church we went direct to the Hotel d'Oberkirch, situated Bue de la Nuee Bleus, near the square St. Pierre le Jeune, between the hotel of the grand prevot of the cathedral and the government hotel. I was to reside there thence- forth with the dowager baroness d'Oberkirch, nee baroness de Buch. I was received in great form. A superb suite of apartments had been prepared for me, the elegance and comfort of which did credit to my husband's taste. I must not forget to speak of wondrous hangings which were dis- played there. These were of India manufacture, 94 MEMOIRS OF richly embroidered, and had once belonged to the grandmother of M. d'Oberkirch. Spite of my grief at leaving my father, I soon became accus- tomed to my new mode of life ; my husband spared no care or attention on his part that could render it agreeable. We afterwards made visits with my mother-in-law to all the neighbouring nobility, who hastened in return to offer their congratulations, and during three days our hotel was not a moment without visitors. Scarcely was I married when I received another letter from M. Lavater; he had understood my silence, and changed his style : — " Honourable Friend '' (it was so he wrote), " An Italian abbe, the count Velo de Vicence, who has resided some time at Zurich, and whose conduct and character are unexceptionable, intends to make some stay at Strasburg, where, in order to arrange his affairs, he is most anxious to obtain an audience of the cardinal-archbishop of Stras- burg. I do not know any person at Strasburg to whom I could apply to help him to attain this object except you, the most noble, the best of women and patronesses. These lines will not be unj^rofitable if they serve me as well as those with which I took the liberty of asking as respect- fully, and so earnestly, your silhouette. I do not THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 95 know whether you are accustomed to so much frankness ; but I know, if your portrait does not deceive, that you will deign to tolerate my letters, such as they are. I expect a line to assure me that I have not erred in my opinion. " John Gaspard Lavater. " Zuricli, 11th May 1776." M. d'Oberkirch saw this letter, and insisted upon my sending my miniature to M. Lavater, to know what he would say of my disposition. I had not shown the former odd letter to my husband ; however, after fresh importunities I decided to obey him. Here is M. Lavater's answer : — " I thank you respectfully for your silhouette, for which I cannot really say much. I do not at first sight tell any one what I think of his portrait, whether good or ill, unless that I am under an imperious obligation to do so. I see noble things in your silhouette ; but I must confess (hoping that you can endure the truth), that the lower part of your face, thanks, perhaps, to the artist, is far from being as promising as it appears in the painted portrait. I would venture to say that the sil- houette has suffered in the cutting ; a hair's breadth would spoil all. " I am very grateful for what you have done for 96 MEMOIRS OF M. Velo. I ought to thank you more, and apolo- gize for my indiscretion, but I shall not do so ; the expression of your countenance assures me that you set little value on mere words. " May I one day have the happiness of assuring you, de vive voix, how much I honour you, and how highly I estimate the good fortune of the man who has the happiness of calling you his wife ? " John Gaspard Lavater, " Pastor. '•Zurich, 14th June, 1776." I had introduced his abbe to the prince de Rohan, bishop of Strasburg, fi^om father to son, as Mdlle. Schneider, my feiwme-de-chanihre, once said. He was very courteous to us, though we were not of his flock.' The letters of M. Lavater are not sjoirituelle, but in transcribing them at full length I was anxious to show that a man may be endowed with a particular talent without pos- sessing the charm of style. I never learned any- thing further about my silhouette and my portrait. M. d'Oberkirch would have it that he had nothing good to tell, and that he did not wish to say any- thing bad to my face ; that was his expression. It is worthy of remark, that all the time of this correspondence, M. Lavater and I had never seen each other. THE BAEONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 97 I was about to become a mother. I hastened to communicate this intelligence to my dear princess, who, in return, wrote, praying me, if my health would permit it, to come to her as she was immediately to leave Etupes for Berlin, where she would probably remain for a long time. She would tell me the rest de vive voix. " Ah," cried I, " the Princess Dorothea is going to be married, and we shall never see her again. I am glad in one sense, but I will long bewail her loss." M. d'Oberkirch gave me permission to go for a few days, but I was to use the greatest precautions. It was decided that he should not accompany me, as the moment in which the whole family were in a state of excitement by the announcement of an important piece of intelligence, would not be the most suitable to a presentation. This separation was painful to both, and my friend must have been very dear indeed, when I could make so great a sacrifice for her. I found the whole court of Mont- bdliard in agitation : a marriage had been unex- pectedly proposed — a marriage which certainly offered the highest rank in Europe, next that of queen of France. The suitor was no less a per- sonage than the Grand-duke Paul, heir to the throne of Russia. The entire event arose from the following circumstance : — Prince Frederick of Prussia, brother to Frederick VOL I. H 98 MEMOIRS OF the Great, and uncle to the duchess of Wurtem- berg-Montbeliard, had been sent in 1770 by the king, his iUustrious brother, to Russia, to the court of Catherine ll., to negotiate the affairs of Poland, and to try to prevent a war between Prussia, Austria, and Russia. The success of this negotia- tion was complete. The state of anarchy in which Poland was then plunged had excited the cupidity of Russia and Austria. Prince Henry, not being able to oppose the designs of the other courts, succeeded in obtaining a share of the booty for Prussia, in order to preserve the balance of power. He aiTanged the conditions for the partition of this unfortunate country, and Frederic said to him on his return : — " A god must have inspired you, my dear brother ! you have acted admired^ly/' The prince acquired an extraordinary influence over the Empress Catherine, and conceived the project of cementing the alliance between the two crowns by the marriage of the Grand-duke Paul with the Princess Dorothea of Wurtemberg-Mont- beliard, grandniece to the great Frederick. The grand-duchess, first wife of the Grand-duke Paul, princess of Hesse-Darmstadt, died this year (1776), whilst Prince Henry was at St. Petersburg. As she left no children, the czarina was anxious that her son should marry soon again. She happened THE BAROXESS d'oBERKIRCH. 99 to speak of this to Prince Henry, who immediately proposed the Princess Dorothea. Catherine was pleased with the idea. The affair proceeded quickly ; it was agreed that the Grand-duke Paul Petrowitz should set out for Berlin accompanied by Prince Henry. It was arranged that the mar- riage should take place in the Prussian capital, in order that the prince might receive his bride from the hands of the great Frederick. Prince Henry made what may be considered a triumphal entry into Berlin, the alliance which he had negotiated being the assured pledge of peace. Things were in this state when I arrived at Etupes. The princess was about to set off with her august father. She was in high delight. As soon as she saw me, she flung her arms about my neck and kissed me several times. " Lanele !" cried she, " I am very sorry to leave you all, but I am the happiest princess in the world. You must come to see me/' For my part, I wept, and the tears of the duchess flowed with mine. The splendour of the alliance did not hide from her the sorrows of separation. " And besides,'' said she, " terrible misfortunes sometimes befal the czars; and who knows what fate heaven has decreed for my poor child !" Happily she was mistaken ; her maternal in- stinct was here at fault. h2 100 MEMOIRS OF Our days and our evenings passed in conjectures and in projects. We could not sleep. The Princess Dorothea mimicked court ceremonies, which made us laugh in spite of ourselves. She saluted all the empty fauteuils, to practise, as she said, being gracious, taking care, however, that none should receive more or less than its due share of royal condescension. Sometimes she stopped suddenly in the midst of her sport, and said, turning to me, " I am very much afraid of Catherine ; she will terrify me, I am sure, and T will appear to her a great fool. Oh ! if I could only succeed in pleas- ino^ her and the mrand-duke."' The Princess Dorothea, born in 1759, was then seventeen years of age. She was beautiful as Aurora; of that majestic stature which sculptors love to imitate, combining with a delicate regu- larity of features the most noble and imposing grace. Hers was indeed a regal beauty. She took an infantine pleasure in talking of her marriage. However, during the last days of her stay amongst us, the shades of sorrow began to gather round her when she reflected that she was about to leave her mother ; to quit the country where she had been brought up ; this castle, where she had been so happy ; her brothers, me, all, even the people of tho country about were included in her regret. At the moment of departure it was necessary almost THE BAROXESS d'OBERKIRCH. 101 to tear tier from our arms ; she was borne, faint- ing, to her carriage, where she was received hy her father and two waiting-women. I had pro- mised to remain with the duchess during the first moments of her sorrow, and I wrote to M. d'Ober- kirch, praying him to join me, which he did not delay a moment to do. He made a most favour- able impression at Etupes, particularly on the duchess, who frequently said to me, " I would only ask of heaven to see my daughter as happily married as you/' How sad and dreary did this palace and these gardens now appear to me, where I no longer found my tender and illustrious friend ! I walked about all day with her poor mother, seeking sor- rowfully her favourite spots, where we lingered and spoke of the dear absent one. Her praise was for us an inexhaustible theme. She wrote every day to the duchess, always adding a few words for me, but she had promised to give me an account of the interview which was to take place on the 26th July. She kept her word. Here is her letter : — "Berlin, 2Gth July 1776. " My very dearest Friend, " I am satisfied, and more than satisfied. My dear friend, I could not possibly be more so. The grand- duke is exceedingly amiable : he possesses 102 MEMOIRS OF every charm. He arrived on the 21st, and on the 25th Prince Henry demanded a formal interview. I got precedence of all the princesses and royal duchesses. I dare flatter myself that I will be loved by my dear betrothed, a thought which ren- ders me very, very happy. 1 cannot tell you more at present, for the courier that my beloved j^apa is sending to Stuttgard sets off this moment, so I must give him this letter, that he may put it in the post at Cassel. Adieu, cJiere mnie, 1 am in heart and soul your tender and faithful friend, " Dorothea.'' State reasons are often very severe, and one needs a great deal of courage to submit to them with a good grace. The Princess Dorothea, on marrying the grand-duke, was obliged to embrace the Greek religion, and was rebaptized as Marie Foedero^\ma, as every one knows. She must have felt this very deeply ; she who was so attached to our holy religion, and so sincerely devoted to her duty. I bewailed this circumstance in the depth of my soul; but it was of unavoidable necessity, and God will, I hope, call her to the truth before the close of her life, spite of her left-handed sign of the cross and her worship of images. The nuptials were celebrated with the greatest magnificence, and formed the universal theme of THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 103 conversation throughout Europe. The newspapers were filled with details of all kinds, which we ex- tracted. The affectionate heart of the princess could not perfectly enjoy her happiness far from her dear mother, whom she prayed so earnestly to come, that at length the duchess set out, accompa- nied by some ladies of her court. I would certainly have gone with her, had not the delicacy of my health prevented the possibility of undertaking so long a journey, nor would M. d'Oberkirch listen to such a proposition — to risk the safety of his heir ! My dear princess did not forget me, and in the midst of the embarrassments of etiquette and of visits, wrote me these few lines from Marienwercler, 18th August 1776: — " My dear and charming Lanele, I have only two minutes to myself — I will bestow them upon you, to let you know that we arrived here happily, that we are well, and that we all love you very much, particularly I, who am ever your tender and faithful friend, " Dorothea, P. de M. W. " How is your health, my dear friend ? tell me all about it in your next letter. Papa, and mamma, and all the ladies send you a thousand compli- ments.'' 104 MEMOIRS OF The marriage took place on the 7tli (13th) October the same year. The princess became thus grand- duchess of Russia and reigning duchess of Schles- wig-Holstein ; the Czar Peter III. having been duke of Holstein-Gottorp, and his son having in- herited this duchy. Whilst yet in the first flush of her joy, the grand- duchess set out for St. Petersburg: with her hus- band. She was as happy as it is possible to be on this earth ; nothing was wanting to complete her felicity, for she possessed the power of doing good. And she did good —a great deal of good — and was not less beloved in the new country to which she went than she had been at Montbeliard. Ever kind, she did not forget our friendship. I received from her a charming epistle, dated 16th (27th) December 1776, St. Petersburg : — " My very good, very dear, and very tender Friend, " I have just this instant received your letter, dated Strasburg, my angel, and I hasten to reply, though I have only a couple of minutes to my- self Knowing the friendship and attachment that you bear my dear parents, I am convinced of the sorrow you must have felt at parting from them. Still, spite of that, you are happier than I, for, after your confinement, I hope that you will THE BAROXESS d'oBERKIRCH. 105 return to them ; but I, unfortunately, can never look forward to a like happiness. Whenever this thought passes my mind I become sad and melancholy for the rest of the day. But, lapng this topic aside, let us talk of yourself, my dear friend. Thank heaven, that notwithstanding the state you are in, you enjoy good health. I offer a thousand and a thousand prayers that you may get happily through this approaching sickness, and that my dear friend may be soon out of danger. As during the time of your illness, my dear angel, you dare not write yourself, pray let me hear of you through one of your friends. Provided that I know how you are, and how all is going on, I will be satisfied. Your dear portrait is placed in one of my rooms, but I do not think it a good likeness ; I pray you, as a favour, to get me a better. You should long since have had mine, were it not that of five that were painted only one was tolerable. This I sent to my brother Eugene ; but I am about to sit to another painter, who, I hope, will succeed better, and then I will send it to you. The tea shall not be forgotten. I hope that by this time you have received the heart, with my initials, which I ventured to send you. Adieu, my dear love, I embrace you a thousand times. If my little godson or my little god-daughter is born, give it a kiss in the name of its godmother. I am, ever 106 MEMOIRS OF dear and beloved amie, your tender faithful friend, " Marie, " Grand-cluchess of Russia, " ?i " carry it to the poor woman, and tell her that I will send her more to-morrow.'' My dear princess's heart was still the same. The next day she sent more money, as she had promised, and desired the messenger to make particular in- quiries about the state of the invalid. It was a great pleasure to the count du Nord to encourage this benevolent disposition in his wife. This night I slept at Versailles, in the ambas- sador's hotel. There were to be theatricals next day in the theatre of the palace, to which the queen was good enough to invite me. The grand- duchess was deeply touched by so thoughtful and delicate a manner of complimenting her. The 250 MEMOIRS OF theatre of the palace is magnificent, both from its size and the splendour of its decorations, This court life was very wearisome to me ; it was so fatiguing ; so painful to be so far from home, from my father and daughter, and my usual mode of life interrupted. I often suffered a great deal without a murmur ; for no person would pity me, every- body envying my position. It was very late when I went to sleep ; first, I was kept awake by the noises in the hotel ; and then I began to fancy that Mary was ill, and that it was concealed from me : M. d'Oberkirch had to make a thousand protesta- tions, before I was satisfied that this was not the case, so easily is a mother's heart disturbed : but it is a fact that Mary was sick this very night, and even at the very hour that I was so unhappy about her ; I acknowledge that I believe in presentiments. 2Srd May. — This morning I set out early to visit Le Petit Trianon. What a delicious walk, through groves perfumed with lilac, and filled with the charming songs of a thousand nightingales ! The weather was magnificent, the air loaded with the balmy odours of spring flowers ; whilst myriads of butterflies disported their gaudy wings, gilded by the rays of the sun. I could easily understand how delightful this charming retreat must be to the queen, who spends the greater part of every sum- mer there. THE barojn^ess d'oberkirch. 251 The Petit is exactly opposite to the Great Tria - non. It formerly belonged to Madame Dubarry, and was built and furnished by the orders of Louis XV. with the greatest taste and magnificence. Al- though the chateau is not large, it is very well arranged, and can accommodate a great number of persons. The grounds possess every imaginable de- coration — ruins, winding paths, grottoes, sheets of water, cascades, mountains, temples, statues ; in short everything that could diversify or beautify the prospect. One part of the gardens is laid out (according to the queen's wish) a VAnglaise, and is very much admired. The French part is in the same style as Le Notre and the quincunx at Ver- sailles. There is also a small theatre, where the queen is very fond of taking part in a comedy with the count of Artois and some intimate friends. At our return from Trianon, we dined at our hotel with Madame Bombelles, and then dressed for the play. The queen had the extreme polite- ness to place at my disposal the small grated box belonging to the king, and which was immediately behind her own. She did me the honour of addressing me several times, and always, with the most flattering amiability. The opera was ' Aline, or the Queen of Gol- conda,' the plot taken from a novel by the che- valier Bonfleur, who, it is said, had some such 252 MEMOIRS OF adventures himself. The words are by Sieur Sedani, the music by M. de Monsigny ; an (J it was arranged by M. de Laval, ballet-master to the king. The music was excellent, and very well performed ; but I was particularly delighted with the dancers. To what a degree of perfection this voluptuous art has been carried ! M. Gardel, aine, danced in the first act, M. Vestris in the second, and M. Nourri in the third. The scenery was enchanting, and so skilfully arranged that nature herself could not appear fresher or more lovely. Who would not be Aline, and reign over this delicious country ! M. de Monsigny is maitre-d' hotel in ordinar}'^ to the duke of Orleans ; he is highly esteemed, and everybody speaks of him in the highest terms. I was invited to sup after the opera with the Princess de Chinay, lady of honour to the queen. This lady had a pet monkey, the smallest I think that I have ever seen, who, whilst his mistress was at the theatre, contrived to break his chain, and escape unperceived into a cabinet near the dressing- room of the princess. Here he found a little dog, not larger than himself, with whom he established a very amicable acquaintance. He behaved very discreetly for some time, committing no greater depredations than pouring water into his com- THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 253 panion's porringer and on the carpet. Perhaps the sense of freedom was in itself sufficient amuse- ment for some time. After a little while he became more courageous, and ventured into the next room, and thence into the dressing-room, with which he was very well acquainted, being brought there every day. The crimson toilet-table had long been the object of his ambition, and you may suppose that he profited by the opportunity of making a nearer acquaintance with it. He over- turned boxes, powder-puffs, hair-pins, combs and brushes ; he spilled all the perfumes, taking care, however, to sprinkle himself well with them ; he then rolled himself in the powder, and to complete his toilet he put on rouge and patches, as he had often seen his mistress do, with this difference that he put the rouge on his nose, and the patches on his forehead. That was not all ; he made a head- dress of a ruffle, and thus, completely dressed, walked into the room where we were all quietly at supper, little expecting such a visitor. He jumped on the table, and ran towards the princess ; the ladies all fled shrieking, thinking it was the devil in person ; and it was with difficulty that his mistress herself recognised him. She soon dis- covered that it was indeed her dear Almanzor, and reassured her company as she pointed him out sitting beside her, apparently enchanted with him- 254 MEMOIRS OF self. The terror of the ladies was changed into laughter ; and they all began petting him, and giving him gingerbread and filberts. I could not share in the general amusement. I think monkeys very amusing at a distance, but not in a drawing-room, where they make so much mischief- However, I thought the little monkey of the princess very comic in his fantastic toilet. Whilst I was at Versailles, the countess du Nord was waited on by the flower-girls of the Pont-Neuf, who presented her with a basket of the most beau- tiful flowers in the world. The princess showed her gratitude with truly imperial generosity. She was passionately fond of flowers, and would, I am certain, if she could, have kept this basket all night in her room. She sent some of the most beautiful to my house, with directions that they should be preserved until my return. The countess du Nord visited some time after the new prison in the Rue des Ballots, at the old Hotel de la Force. She felt great pity for the poor prisoners, and she, together with her husband, shared amongst the prisoners for debt ten thou- sand livres.. God, the sick, and the unfortunate were her first care. Her first visit every day was to Notre Dame, then to the Hotel Dieu, where she distributed money in abundance. Immense sums were spent during this journey, but the THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 255 greater part in acts of charity, or incitements to industry. Tlie princess lavished little money except upon the poor. 24^/i May. — I was still at Versailles. I dined with Madame Mackan, who was always so amiable. We talked a long time together, and then M. Mackan conducted M. d'Oberkirch and me to see the royal menagerie. I remarked to him that there were few strange animals, to which he re- plied — " Have we not plenty of courtiers, and what more would you want 1" v The Chevalier St. Louis, governor of the mena- gerie at Versailles, a man of very singular tastes, bought a great number of turkeys as an addition to his collection of curious animals. The king passing one day, accompanied, as was usual, by twelve cent Suisse (twelve soldiers of his body guard) and their captain, saw these birds, and said to the governor that he thought them very disagree- able. The governor took no notice. When next the king passed he was displeased to find the turkeys there still, and said to the chevalier, " Monsieur, if fou do not dismiss this troop from your regiment, I pledge my royal word that I will deprive you of your commission.''' Madame Mackan had the goodness to take me to the apartments of the royal children. The prin- 256 MEMOIRS OF cess royal is a miracle of beauty, intelligence, and precocious dignity, and very like her august mother. She looked at me very attentively, and asked my name ; when she was told, she said — " You are German, madame ?" " No, madame, I am French, and Alsatian." " I am glad of that, for I could not love fo- reigners." How charming this was in so young a child ! The dauphin was a beautiful infant. What a pity that so lovely a bud should fall from the royal stem. After leaving the royal apartments, I went with Madame de Bombelles to visit the wives of the different ministers of the crown. These were — The count of Vergennes, minister of foreign affairs. The marquis of Se'gur, minister of war. M. d'Amelot, minister of the king's household. The marquis of Castries, naval minister. Toly de Fleury, minister of finances. M. de Maupeon, chancellor. M, de Miromesnil, keeper of the seals. The count of Breteuil, minister of Paris. The marquis of Segur, who was then lieutenant- general, and afterwards marshal of France, had both his arms shot off at the battle of Minden. It was that thoughtless minister, M. de Maurepas, who, from friendship for the elder M. Amelot, ap- pointed the younger minister of the royal house- THE BARONESS DOBERKIRCH. 257 bold. " No person/' said he, '' can accuse me of having chosen this man on account of his talent." The daughter of M. Amelot, secretary of state, was married to the count of Fertd Seneterre. These visits were not very amusing ; court cere- monies have always been disagreeable to me, but it was necessary that I should accustom myself to them. As a recreation, Madame Bombelles took me to visit the apartments and cabinets of the king, which I had not yet seen. They were not so handsome or as much ornamented as those of the queen. The simplicity of Louis XYI.'s taste is seen in everything about him. We ascended by a private staircase to a small room at the very top of the palace, where the king works as a locksmith, an occupation in which he takes great pleasure. As I entered this apartment, filled with tools, I was greatly impressed by these evidences of the simple tastes of so great a monarch. We returned to sup with the duchess of Yille- quier. The duke of Villequier (formerly marquis) is second son of the duke d'Aumont. His elder brother, married to Mademoiselle Dufort-Duras, bore the title of duke of Mazarin until the death of his father, when he inherited that of Aumont. I have before related how their daughter was mar- ried to the prince of Monaco, by which union were united the possessions of Mazarin and Valentinois. VOL. I. S 258 MEMOIRS OF The sister of the dukes of Aumont and Yille- quier was married to the duke of Villeroi, her cousin-german, and is certainly one of the most remarkable ladies at court. She is a woman of superior intellect, and of unerring judgment both in men and things. Her imagination is brilliant, and her memory prodigious. She possesses great talent for discussion, for which her powers of obser- vation furnish her with many piquant facts. She is rather vindictive, and her conversation at times extremely sarcastic. She has, however, a very good disposition, and is sensitive even to susceptibility. She well deserved the sobriquet of bonne me- chante, which was given to her at court. She loves or hates mth great ardour. In her youth she was passionately fond of music, literature, and the fine arts, but afterwards turned her attention entirely to politics, on which she will argue with gentlemen with most surprising clearness and judgment. She is strongly opposed to the present democratic tendency of public opinion. On the evening of which I write she supped with us at her sister-in-law's, and expressed great pity for us because of our playing the game of loto- dauphin. She made many very amusing remarks upon this game (which was very fashionable, but certainly did not require much exertion of the THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 259 mind), whilst she conversed in a corner with a gentleman, a kind of savant, whose name I cannot at this moment remember. This gentleman had apartments in the hotel d'Aumont at Paris, which was a great advantage for him in his studies. He was poor and timid, and the duchess would not allow any person to treat him unkindly. How often was her heart planning projects of benevo- lence at the very moment that her sarcastic conver- sation was inflicting deep wounds around her ! Un- fortunately, one word may do more harm than could be compensated by a thousand acts of good- ness. 26th May. — I returned from Versailles to Paris, and immediately after my arrival hastened to visit the countess du Nord. She made me stay to dinner, and we related to each other all that we had seen or heard during our separation. She travelled with great profit, making notes of every interesting or remarkable event, and seeking every opportunity of obtaining information. It was she who first suggested to me the idea of this journal, and consequently of these memoirs. " How delightful," said she, "it will be, as we grow old, to review the scenes and feelings of our youth ; and, besides, would you not wish to leave some trace of your existence after you had crossed the stormy sea of life? Our children will read s2 260 MEMOIRS OF the pages on whicli we inscribe our sentiments and our ideas ; they will learn from them how warmly we loved them, and cherish our memories with deeper and more lasting affection." M. de la Harpe dined with us, and after dinner he read to us his translation of Lucian, which is deservedly very much admned. I did not like him much ; I thought him stiff, pedantic, and self- satisfied. He poured forth streams of bile, in speaking of his brother authors, not one of whom he would allow to possess the least genius. The grand-duchess was entirely of my opinion. When Lucian was finished, I went to visit the princess de Bouillon. Her husband is colonel of the regiment which my father, uncle, and M. de Wim^DfTen have successively commanded ; he has the greatest friendship for my father. The princess, who is daughter of Constantino landgrave of Hesse- Rheinfelt-Rothembourg, and ol the Countess Mary of Staremberg, received me mth the greatest kind- ness. The duke of Bouillon, father to the prince, is still alive, and a widower, having lost his wife, who was a princess of Lorraine-Massan. The ancient dukes of Bouillon were of the house of Lamarck, which failing in the male line, the title was per- petuated in the family of Latour of Auvergne, by the marriage of the heness, Charlotte de Lamarck, with the Marshal Turenne, in 1591. The princess of THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 261 Bouillon asked me to remain to supper, but having promised the grand-duchess to sup with her, I was ^ bliged to refuse, though very anxious to see her father and mother-in-law. They were both remark- able persons, one being grandson of the great Sobieski, and brother of the princess of Rohan- Montbazon, and the other celebrated by her own adventures. She had been in love with Marshal Saxe, and public report accused her of having poisoned Mdlle. Lecouvreur, whom she suspected of supplanting her in his affections. To what a degree must she not have forgotten herself, before anybody would have taken the liberty of accusing a woman of her rank of so base a crime ! What a lesson it ought to be for others ! Before my return to the grand- duchess, I paid several visits, one to the countess of Halwill. The count of Halwill was marshal-de-camp, and had been for a long time colonel of the regiment of Halwill-Suisse, which was disbanded. The Hal- wills are a very ancient family. The name of Hal- will is mentioned in the record of a carousal at Augsburg in 1080, and a Philip Halwill appeared in a tournament at Zurich in 1165. My next visit was to the viscountess of Equevilly, Qiee Dieck, a very young and very agreeable w^oman, who was only a short time married, and had been presented about a week before. The viscount of 262 MEMOIRS OF Equevilly is second colonel of the dragoon regiment of Deux-Ponts. His father the marquis of Eque- villy was lieutenant-general and captain of the Vautrait, as the office of captain in charge of the tents and royal pavilion at the boar-hunt was vulgarly called. I paid many other visits, several of which were en hlanc, that is to say, that I left my card. The customs in this country have been always extremely fantastic, but we must go with the stream, or be called ignorant country ladies, as Madame de Villeroi angrily called the provincial ladies who visited her at her chateau. The countess du Nord, whose judgment was very correct, often laughed with me at these little great things, but, however, had the good sense to conform to them. Monarchs themselves must yield to fashion. THE BARONESS d'0J3ERKIRCH. 263 CHAPTER XI. The countess du Nord at Notre-Dame — St. Peter's and Notre-Dame — Gift from the queen — Iphigenie en Tauride — Mdlle, Laguerre intoxicated — The duke of Bouillon, her lover — Couplets — Order of Felicite — Origin of Gluckists and Piccinists — Dancing — M. de Beaumarchais at the countess du Nord's — Jealousy of La Harpe — Pleading of the 'Marriage of Figaro '—Seance at the Academy — M, d'Arnoud — Canes k la Barmecide — The countess du Nord at the Theatre Frangais— Verses — The new theatre — The actors — The pretended decay of art — Le Petit Dunquerque — Varietes amusantes. 1782. 2Qth May. — Madame Beckendorf took me to visit the dome of the Invalides, which in- terested me very much. She was enceinte and very delicate, which, however, did not prevent her from going everywhere, and keeping herself in a perpetual state of motion. We returned together to dine with the countess du Nord. We were very gay during dinner, and talked a great deal ; the princess entertained us with an account of the visit -she made to Notre-Dame during my residence at Versailles. She particularly admired the pictures with which the church is ornamented, of which she 264 MEMOIRS OF spoke with great judgment and taste, for she is herself very well versed in the art, and draws per- fectly well. Their imperial highnesses had expected to make their visit to this edifice quite incognito ; but, spite of their precautions, their intention was discovered, and they were received by the canons with due honour. The princess conversed there for some time with the Abbe de Lafaye, who has many relations in Alsace. As we were on the sub- ject of churches, the grand-duchess gave us a de- tailed description of St. Peter's and of Rome, the capital of the Catholic world. I was very much struck by the parallel she drew between St, Peter's and Notre-Dame ; two buildings which cannot bear a comparison, except in the point of view in which she considered them. " At St. Peter's,'' said she, "one feels oveipowered by the beauty, extent, and majesty of the edifice, and hardly dares to address the Supreme Being, in whose honour this gorgeous temple has been raised, so deep is the imjjression of one's own insignificance, and of the immense distance between the creature and the Creator ; but at Notre-Dame, built when religion had so much influence over the minds of men, there is a mysterious something which leads the soul to confidence and prayer One feels a certainty of being heard and pitied, one yields un- hesitatingly to the divine influence of love and hope. THE BAEONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 265 These, at least/' continued the princess, " were my sensations in the two churches ; but, perhaps, you will be surprised when I say that I prefer our Greek churches to either/' Happily for the grand-duchess, she had entirely conquered her regret for the worship of her child- hood. After dinner she showed us a magnificent fan, ornamented with diamonds, which the queen had presented her the day of the dramatic representa- tion at Versailles. There was an eye-glass in the handle, which served her majesty with an excuse for presenting it, which she did with that grace and tact peculiar to herself. " I know,'' said she, " that, like me, you are a little shortsighted, an inconvenience which I beg you will allow me to remedy ; and may I hope that you will keep this simple ornament in remem- brance of me ?" " I will keep it whilst I live," replied the prin- cess ; " and never will I forget that to it I owe the happiness of being better able to see your ma- jesty." After dinner I went with General Wurmser to hear Piccini's opera of ' Iphigenie en Tauride,' and ' Le Devin du Village,' of which both the words and music are by the celebrated Jean Jacques Rousseau. This ' Iphigenia ' of Piccini's is the 266 MEMOIRS OF same subject, and almost the very same words as tliat of ' Guimand de la Touclie/ set to music by M. Gluck in 1779, and of which the success was immense, the interest of the piece being very well sustained throughout, and the music in the most perfect harmony with the subject. Mdlle. Levasseur played Iphigenia ; Larriv^e, Orestes ; Legros, Pylades ; and Moreau, Thoas. It was two years after that Piccini produced his opera on the same theme, to the great indignation of the GlucJcists. At the second representation of Piccini's opera? Mdlle. Laguerre appeared on the stage quite intoxi- cated ; the audience were indignant, they hissed, stamped, hooted, and loudly demanded that she should be sent to Fort TEvesque, which was done at last, to the great annoyance of her lover, the duke of Bouillon, who has ruined himself for her. He carried his passion for her to the most ridiculous excess, and it was (as everything is in France), made the subject of a popular song. I will transcribe these verses, which are the best I have yet presented to my readers : — Bouillon est preux et vaillaut, II aime la guerre ; A tout autre amusement Son coeur la prefere ; Ma foi, vive un chambellan Qui toujours s'en va disant : Moi j'aime la guerre, 6 gue ! Moi j'aime la guerre. THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 267 Au sortir de I'opera Voler a la guerre, De Bouillon qui le croira C'est le caractere ; Elle a pour lui cles ajDpas Que pour d'autres elle n'a pas, Enfin c'est la guerre, 6 gue ! Enfin c'est la guerre. A Durfort il faut du TM C'est sa fantaisie, Soubise moins degoute Aime la Prairie. Mais Bouillon, qui pour son roi, Mettrait tout en desarroi, Aime mieux la guerre, 6 gue ! Aime mieux la guerre.^ This poor duke de Bouillon was a most singular man, and used to do the most extraordinary things : lie instituted an order for the younger ladies of the court, which he called the order De la felicite, and for which he had numerous aspirants. His friend the marquis of Chambonas, so celebrated for his wit and prodigality, was lieutenant maitre of the order, and its statutes were composed of maxims of gallantry to which all were obliged to conform. Its members wore on the left side a small cross sus- pended from a green ribbon. Green being the emblem of hope. The duke asked me to become a member, but I refused ; I could not admire all * These verses being entirely a play upon words, it would be impossible to retain their double signification in a translation. — Note hy the Editor. 268 MEMOIES OF this chivalry, nor did I need the order of Felicite to insure my happiness. But it is time that we should return to the opera of l23higenia (I am speaking now of Piccini's), and although a Gluckist, I must acknowledge that it possesses a great deal of merit. Why compare two men so absolutely different ? And why elevate one at the expense of the other ? This war origi- nated in 1778, from an expression of the Abb^ Arnaud, who said that Gluck had composed an Orlando, and Piccini an Orlandino. Marmontel, who had written the words of Piccini's opera, was absolutely furious ; he stormed, he raved, and sounded the trumpet of war in every direction. All flew to arms, ladies as well as gentlemen ; the whole order of things was disturbed, lovers quar- relled, friends fell out, husbands and wives were dis- united, because, forsooth, their musical tastes could not agree. I myself knew a very pretty woman, (whose name I will not mention,) who considered she gave sufficient excuse for her want of affection for her husband when she said, — " How could any one be faithful to such a man ? He is a Picciniste, and stuns my ears from morning until night/' " And you repay him from night until morning," replied some person. After ' Iphigenia ' we had the ' Devin du Village,' THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 269 a very pretty pastoral. The part of Collette was performed by a debutante, Mdlle. Maillot, who was very well received ; she sang better than her predecessor, Mdlle. Audinot, but her acting was not good. The Sieur Duquesney was very good in the character of Colin. The principal dancers were Mdlle. Guimard — a very handsome and graceful person, and who has been very much admired- — ^and Vestris's son and nephew. The son is called Vestris Allard, being the combined names of his father and mother ; and though he has had great success, it is said that he will never equal the dieu de la danse. At our return from the opera, a great pleasure awaited us at the palace of the countess du Nord, and which we enjoyed in defiance of M. de la Harpe, whom it gave me great pleasure to see annoyed. M. de Beaumarchais was to read to their imperial highnesses his ' Marriage of Figaro,' which had not yet appeared on the stage, as he had been refused permission to have it performed. M. de la Harpe came every day to the count du ISTord's, under pretext of being his correspondent, and the prince (as well as we) was become thoroughly weary of him. His excessive and ridiculous self-love was unbearable : no amount of compliments could satisfy him ; he was become a burden to us all. The count du Nord hesitated as to whether he 270 MEI^IOIRS OF sliould allow tlie reading of M, de Beaumarcliais' performance, fearing that it would excite the jealousy of M. de la Harpe, and said, laughing, — " I would not wish to fall out with the hiofher powers. '^ But the countess du Nord insisted, and he was obliged to consent. How great a difference there was between M, de Beaumarchais and M. de la Harpe ! I admired the former very much ; he had a handsome, open, intellectual countenance, with perhaps an expression a little too bold. I was told that he by no means deserved my good opinion — that he was a most worthless man ; which certainly may have been the case, but most undoubtedly he had a very exten- sive mind, a most daring courage, and a strength of purpose that no obstacle could overcome : it will be admitted that these were great qualities. Son of a clockmaker, his merit raised him to rank with princes ; he triumphed over the envy or ill- will of all his competitors, and by his talent has amassed an immense fortune. He was in every way a remarkable man. It is said that he loved his daughter with the greatest affection ; and I do not believe it possible that a good father could be a bad man. However that may be, we were very much pleased with his ' Marriage of Figaro.' It was THE BAEONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 271 not SO much admired as the ' Barber of Seville/ why I do not know ; perhaps that it outraged some dramatic law ; but I would most decidedly prefer it. I thought it more amusing, the dialogue more lively, and the style altogether more brilliant. His enemies asserted that he described himself in the character of Figaro ; which may be, but there are many other things to be admired in it. I will give the fruit of my reflections on this piece when I come to speak of its representation, at which I was afterwards present. May 27. — The countess du Nord was good enough to ask me to spend the morning with her in exa- mining the merchandizes of different shopkeepers, who were to bring their greatest rarities for her inspection. She bought some superb ornaments of enamel set in marcasites, which were a real curiosity, and cost as much as if they were of precious stones. Afterwards I had the honour of accompanying their imperial highnesses to the Academy, where a special meeting was held in their honour. This assembly had a very imposing air. M. de la Harpe read some verses in praise of the count du Nord, which I thought deficient both in taste and tact. In the first place, his poem was too long, and in the next place it contained a lengthened criticism on the German poets, which certainly was not the most agreeable subject to have read before 272 MKVIOIRS OF the grand -duchess, a German princess. She re- marked this to me herself. The countess du Nord is very well acquainted mth the poetry of her country ; and it is very possible that M. de la Harpe had never read one German poet in the original, without which it would be impossible to judge impartially. Further on in his composition he compares the gTand duke to Peter the Great ; but the prince, whose judgment is very correct, rejected the ill-judged flattery, saying, — " It is my greatest ambition to resemble him one day, and to continue the great work that he has commenced ; but at present I do not deserve to have my inglorious name inscribed beside his/' One thing that M. de la Harpe said in praise of the prince was indeed true ; it was, that " To envious courtiers he would be an excellent master in the art of pleasing.'' An address was then read by Count Schouwalow, which wearied everybody. M. Darmond spoke very long and very well on ' Julius Caesar :' this is the opinion that I heard, for I do not consider myself competent to form a judgment on such a composi- tion. At the conclusion of the meeting, M. Dalem- bert distributed medals amongst the persons com- posing the suite of their imperial highnesses. Never did I see a more ignoble-looking philosopher ; and he paid us compliments in a tone that would have THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 273 better suited an insult. At first I did not know in what sense I was to understand what he said. The countess du Nord astonished the acade- micians by her extensive information, and flattered them not a little by quoting passages from some of their most celebrated works. The illustrious tra- vellers promised their portraits to these gentlemen, and they are to be placed beside that of the cele- brated Christina, queen of Sweden. We returned to dinner, and our conversation was entirely of the immortal members of the Academy, and especially of M. de la Harpe. Poor M. de la Harpe 1 — epigrams showered on him like hail from all parts of Paris. I remember a very amusing anecdote that I heard of him : he was one day driving in the Bois de Boulogne, in a carriage with two ladies, one of whom, as well as I remember, was the duchess de Grammont. They were over- whelming him with the adulation and compliments which his self-love required from everybody, but which, to do him justice, he always returned with interest, naturally supposing that what was so agreeable to him must needs be so to all the world, when a man passed near the carriage, crying, " Who will buy my walking-sticks a la Barmecide f " Walking-sticks a la Barmecide,'' said one of the ladies ; " that ought to interest you, M, de la Harpe ; VOL. I. T 274 MEMOIRS OF allow me to present you with one of these canes in remembrance of your great success/^ M. de la Harpe considered that the representa- tion of his tragedy of the ' Barmecide' had been very successful. The man was called, and he approached the carriage, presenting three or four sticks, with very ugly ivory balls on the tops. " Why do you call them a la Barmecide V said the lady. " You shall see, madame," said the man, with a very knowing air. He took off the ivory ball and showed to the lady a large cat-call, hidden under it. The two ladies had the cruelty to burst into laughter, and poor LaHarpe was overcome by shame and wounded self-love ; " he could," said M. de Beaumarchais, " have shed tears of bile.'' After dinner their imperial highnesses went to the Theatre Frangais, where they had hired a box for the time they were to remain in Paris. This was their third visit ; they preferred it to every other public amusement, which undoubtedly is a proof of an enlightened taste. The performance was ' Mercure Galant,' and the ' Chasse de Henri Quatre.' The count du Nord was so j^leased with the latter piece, that he wished to have it repeated, which gave occasion to the following verses : THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 275 When the proud hearts of Frenchmen their Henry recall, They some trace of his glory would bring back for thee ; And, art rising triumphant, his virtues, and all That he once was in life, thou here pictured mayst see. And the virtues here recorded In thy breast a mirror find. Prince, thou weepest ; and applauded Is each tear by souls refined. And as he to his people a father hast been. So shalt thou unto thine when the sceptre thou'lt own ; But more perfect the likeness between you is seen. When we gaze on the bride thou wilt place on the throne. In her deep and tender feeling Thou love's balmy power shalt know ; And thy mighty mother's teaching To reign and conquer well can show. As thy tears for our Henry fast flowing we see. It proclaims that his equal one day thou shalt be. Their imperial highnesses were loudly cheered during the evening, to which testimony of public admiration they replied by the most gracious salu- tations. The theatre was quite new, and built near the Luxembourg, on the site of the old Hotel de Conde, which had been purchased from the civic autho- rities by the king, and given by him to his brother on condition that he should build a theatre there. Although the erection cost two millions, the public were very much dissatisfied with the accommoda- tion : the boxes were small, and there were many parts of the building from which the stage could not be seen at all. Another objection was the dazzling t2 276 MEMOIRS OF whiteness of the painting, which the ladies declared quite eclipsed the most distinguished toilette. The architecture was very heavy ; but here for the first time we saw the audience in the pit seated. Wliatever may be said to the theatre, the actors were unexceptionable. What an assemblage of talent ! There were Messieurs Preville, Brigard, Mole, Dugazon, Desessart, Larive, Pazincourt, Henry ; Mademoiselles Belcours, Yestris, Preville, Mole, Poligny, La Chassargue, Baucourt, Suin, Sainval, Contates, &c. To praise these would be, indeed, superfluous. Still we hear that the drama is declining. In my opinion people do not sufficiently consider all the study that it requires to make a good actor, and the long practice he must have before he will be quite au fait at the simulation of the thousand cha- racters that he must represent. The greatest genius does not appear in noon-day splendour in the morning of its career. It is not just to judge the debutant by the standard of the perfect artist, who is perhaps not more superior to the new actor than he is to what he was himself when first he sought the public favour. Mdlle. Bancourt, who has cast Mdlles. Clairon and Dum^nil quite into the shade, was considered at her debut much inferior to them. Preville and Mole excel their predecessors, and certainly Pazin- THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 277 court ; Fleury and Mdlle. Contates, who at the time of which I write gave only indications of ordinary talent, have since far surpassed their masters. From which we may safely infer that there is very little truth in the assertion that the histrionic art is on the decline ; our stage is and will be, I am certain, for a long time an honour to our country. 1782. — The Theatre Fran9ais suffered a great loss this year in the retiring of Mdlle. Susy, who was an excellent actress in her genre {de soubrette); she was very much regretted. We returned to sup with the countess du Nord, who was delighted with the evening's entertain- ment. " Ah," said she to the grand-duke, " if we could enjoy such a pleasure at St. Petersburg !" " What is there to prevent it ?" said he thought- fully ; "we must think about it.'' 28th May. — Madame Beckendorf came for me very early ; we were to visit the milliners, gold- smiths, &c. Amongst others we visited the ' Petit Dunkerque' (the shop of a celebrated jeweller at the Pont Neuf), and remained there several hours. Nothing could exceed the beauty of this reservoir of jewellery ; it was filled with trinkets of every kind, of which the original value was multiplied ten times by the beauty of the elaborate workman- ship. The price of every article was marked ; and 278 ME5I0IRS OF although the ornaments were most elegant and varied, and finished in the most exquisite manner, the jeweller had the reputation of selling at a very- moderate profit. The number of purchasers was said to be sometimes so great, that they were often obliged to bring a guard. We each bought a trinket that was then very fashionable ; it was a kind of little mill that was worn fastened with the watch. The grand-duchess took several of them to Russia. After dining with the Beckendorfs, I went with Madame SkawTonski to the Varietes Amusantes, where we were very much amused by ' Jerome Pointu.'' We afterwards visited the ware-rooms of the cabinet-makers, where we saw some of the most beautiful furniture in the world. It was nine o'clock when I got home. ! THE BAEONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 279 CHAPTER XII. Visit to the countess de Vergeimes — Adventure of Mdlle. *** — Indiscreet remark of the countess de Pohgnac — Brevet de dame — Court theatricals —Mdlle. Heinel, an opera dancer, retires to a convent — Verses — The rhymers of France — The princess de Chinay — Countess de Henin Lielaud — The countess du Nord at Notre-Dame — Ordinance of the king concerning Protestant children — The countess de Bruce — Jealousy of Catherine II. — Disgrace — Les Invalides — M. Thelusson — The Palais Royal — The cat of the house — A small house — Wit of Mdlle. Dervieux — An anecdote — Supper at Madame de Thavanet's— Reply to the king by M. De G'**— The count du Nord at Bagatelle — Verses — The duchess de Lauzun — Insolent admiration of the duke de Lauzun for the queen — The princess de Henin and Mdlle. Arnould— Society of the princess de Bouillon — The globes of Father Coronelli— The grand-duke at the tomb of Richelieu — The opera of Theseus — The queen and the countess du Nord at the ' Bal d'opera ' — Adventure of the duke de Chartres at the ball — Reflections of the count du Nord. 29th 3fay. — I WAS obliged to go alone to Ver- sailles, very mucli against my inclination, as I left M. d'Oberkirch ill ; but I could not stay away, as the queen had the goodness to invite me the day. before, and the countess du Nord would be greatly disappointed by my absence. I dined with Madame de Mackan, who entertained a very large company 280 MEMOIRS OF that day, and after dinner I paid several visits to various persons of the court. The first was to the countess of Vergennes, wife of the minister of foreign affairs. Her two brothers-in-law were, one a marquis and ambassador in Switzerland, the other a viscount, married to Mdlle. de Lentilhac, was lieutenant-colonel of the Gardes de la Porte. The conversation at Madame de Vergennes was entirely about an extraordinary adventure which had just happened, but was not publicly known. In relating this rather painful tale I will not men- tion names ; but if these memoirs should fall into the hands of any person who knew the parties concerned they will only too easily recognize them. A young lady of very high family was brought home from the convent where she had been edu- cated, and told that her parents had arranged a marriage for her with a very distinguished person. To the great surprise of her friends the young lady not only refused to marry, but absolutely declined appearing in any company whatever, even to see Madame Elizabeth who had wished to receive her. Her family were greatly disturbed : they asked the nuns, and her most intimate friends amongst the boarders at the convent, if they knew anything that could be the cause of this extraordinary con- duct, but in vain — the mystery was impenetrable. Her mother offered her everything that she could THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 281 possibly be supposed to wish for, if she would accompany her to a concert at tbe residence of the king's sisters. She refused : she was surrounded by spies ; but nothing could be discovered that would explain her conduct : they began to fear that she was a victim to monomania. This continued for three months, when one day she most unexpectedly said, that if she would be permitted that she would on the following Sunday go to the mass du roi. Her family were delighted with even this conces- sion ; and milliners and dressmakers were imme- diately employed in preparing a suitable toilet. Her appearance at church made a great sensation ; but she was quite self-possessed, and looked around as if seeking some person. When the congrega- tion was leaving, she uttered an exclamation of surprise, and turning to her mother said, " Madame, could you tell me who is that gentle- man dressed in gray ?" " That is the marquis of * * *." '^ And the lady who is with him ; who is she ?" " That is his wife, Mdlle. de * * *, to whom he is married about a fortnight/' " Married I" cried the poor girl, " He is mar- ried I" At this exclamation the persons near looked at her in amazement, but she took no notice of any- body, but rushed to the door, shrieking like a mad- 282 MEMOIRS OF woinan, as in fact she was. The anguish of the poor mother may be easily imagined. At their return home she questioned her, and at length dis- covered the entire truth. It appeared that the sister of this marquis * * * was a fellow-pupil of the young lady's, and often carried her with her to the parlour when her brother came to visit. The gentleman was struck by the beauty of his sister's friend (whose family he knew to be very rich), and did not allow his admiration to remain a secret. His sister, of course, entered warmly into his inte- rests ; and the imaginations of these two innocent girls were excited by the romantic interest always attached to a secret love affair, and they had the ingenuity to contrive many secret meetings without the knowledge of their governesses. Where they met, how often, or to what extent the intimacy was carried, was never known. One thing, however, is certain, that another bride was offered to the mar- quis, who, besides a very large fortune, could bestow on him a very important office, her uncle being in high favour with the monarch. This was a tempta- tion too great to be resisted, and the unworthy lover sacrificed his affection to ambition. Our heroine being about to leave the convent, it would be im- possible to conceal his treachery once she appeared in society, where she would of course hear imme- diately of his intended marriage, and her family THE BARONESS D'oBERKIRCH. 283 being very powerful miglit easily overturn all his projects. This was a serious dilemma; but our gentleman got out of it in a manner worthy of him- self. Calculating on the young lady's romantic disposition, and being certain of her affection, he fabricated a tale, which easily gained credence from her innocent and confiding mind. With a very mysterious air he told her that there was the greatest danger of their being separated for ever, but that it would be impossible for him to explain further at present ; and that their only chance of escaping so cruel a fate was by her refusing to appear in society for some time. The affectionate girl unhe- sitatingly agreed to do an3rthing that would avert their threatened separation. He made her swear on the gospels that she would not go out of her father's house, or receive any visits, for three months; but he told her that when that time would be expired, to go on Sunday to mass. Three months, he calculated, would give him sufficient time to conclude his marriage and receive his appointment. His plan was quite successful, as we have seen. The anger of the young lady's parents was bound- less ; but what they could do to punish him would only injure their child, and they were therefore obliged to bear this grievous mortification in silence. Their daughter, of a gentle and yielding disposition, was shaken both in body and mind by the false- 284 MEMOIES OF hood of her lover. She was earned into Languedoc, where her father had a magnificent chateau ; where, some time after, she was married to a gentleman of the neighbourhood, of good birth but ])oot. Living far from court, he was ignorant of the circumstance I have just related, and considered the rich Mdlle. * * * a very good wife, notwithstanding the weak- ness of her intellect. Time has had a most bene- ficial effect on this poor creature ; her mind has recovered its tone, and she has become warmly attached to her husband, and quite forgotten her first sad love. I have often met her ; she is uni- versally beloved, and is certainly one of the most estimable women of the court. The moral of my tale is this : that we ought never to despair, but trust in that Divine Providence who is ever ready to assist the weak. After my visits I returned to the countess du Nord, whom I found quite annoyed by an obser- vation of the Countess Diana de Polignac, lady of honour of Madame Elizabeth. The grand-duchess had that morning paid a visit to Madame Elizabeth, and when she withdrew, the Countess Diana con- ducted her through the apartments, a customary piece of court etiquette. The countess du Nord spoke mth great admiration of the beauty and amiability of the princess. " Yes,'' said the Countess Diana, " she is handsome, but she is too fat.'' THE BARONESS D OBERKIRCH. 285 There was very little tact in this reply, for if criticism could find anything to blame in the appear- ance of the grand-duchess it was an inclination to embonpoint. It may therefore be easily supposed that this remark was not very agreeable. She replied rather dryly, "I cannot see any fault in Madame Elizabeth's figure. I do not think that any person could look better. '' This countess de Polignac was neither married nor a canoness, although she wore the cross of the chapter of Lorraine. She appeared at court in virtue of a ' Brevet de dame/ granted to her by the king. She was not handsome, or well made, and was rather negligent in her dress ; but her wit and sensitive disposition made her a universal favourite. The least thing would disturb her, and make her blush like a girl just returned from school. She had, however, more strength of mind than was generally supposed, and loved and sus- tained her family with an energy beyond all praise. By her fascinating powers of conversation she gained many friends for the house of Polignac, whilst the fear of her piquant wit restrained many who would willingly have injured it. When I left the grand-duchess, I went to the theatre of the court, to which the queen had the goodness to invite me, and also to reserve for me the same box as before, and which was immediately 286 MEMOIRS OF behind that in which she herself sat with the countess du Nord. She addressed me several times, and in the most gi^acious and amiable man- ner invited me to sup with her on the following Thursday, when there was to be a great fete in honour of the OTand-duchess in the orardens of Trianon. The performance was ' Iphigenie en Aulide/ a tragic opera in three acts. The verses were "WTitten by M. du Bollet, and the music by the Chevaher Gluck. We had, after a ballet by Gardel, ballet- master to the king, the admirable pantomime of ' Ninette a la Cour,' in which Mdlle. Heinel ap- peared. She was a celebrated dancer, and it was said desperately in love with Yestris, who had retired from the stage about a year before. She had formerly belonged to the Stuttgard Company, and was considered to excel in the more dignified cast of character. Que dans tout son ^clat, Ninette a paru plaire Qu'embelli par Vestris, ennobU par Heinel, Le ballet a du satisfaire. Puisqu'il n'otait deja critique si severe, Qui ne dit ; quand on a Gardel On ne jieut regretter Noverre. Noverre was at that time in London, where his ballets were very successful. One of them, entitled ' Adele de Ponthieu,' he dedicated to the duchess of Devonshire. THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 287 The duchess du Nord was an object of universal admiration this evening ; every eye was turned on her ; she never looked so beautiful, and her dress was really magnificent Some person, I forgot who, compared her to Minerva, with the attributes of the Graces. Amonofst the verses with which our illustrious travellers were overwhelmed, the following appear to me the best, if it were only for their truth- They were composed on this same day by a gen- tleman of the court : — Loudly fame your name rehearses ; But lay a stock of patience by you To read the rondoes, odes, and verses With which the rhyming French will try you. These verses were given to me after the opera, by the princess de Chinay, lady of honour to the queen, in a visit that I paid her before going to sup with Madame de Mackan. She is a very good and amiable woman, equally distinguished for her refinement and her virtues. Her sister-in-law, the dowager princess of Chinay, 7iee Lepelletier de St. Fargeau, is lady of honour to Madame Victoria. Prince Chinay, father of Prince Henin, was mar- ried to Mdlle. Fitz-James, daughter of the duke of Fitz-James, governor of Limousin. They are of the family of ' Henin d'Alsace' or ' H^nin Lieland.' A daughter of Mdlle. d' Alsace was married to 288 MEMOIRS OF Count Caraman (Riquet), a descendant of the en- gineer who constructed the canal of Languedoc. The mother of the princes of Chinay and Henin was a Beauveau-Craon. The title of jDrince of Chinay formerly belonged to the princes of Ligne, and descended by marriage to the house of Henin. SOth. — I rose very early, as I had ^oromised the grand-duchess to accompany her to Notre-Dame. The ceremonies were magnificent. The archbishop, Monseigneur de Suigne, ojSiciated. We were placed immediately next the choir. The music was de- lightful, and I felt deeply impressed by the imposing pomp of these catholic ceremonies. The countess du Nord gave a large sum to the poor and the ' Enfans Trouves.' Her benevolence was inexhaust- ible ; it would not be possible to tell how much she and her august husband distributed in charity during their residence in Paris. No person applied to them in vain ; every day they left home Avith purses filled with gold, and returned without a louis. It was the wish of the empress ; and her children, hapjDy to obey her, did not spare the imperial treasury. This day I heard a piece of news which gave me great pleasure ; it was, that the king had registered in the Parliament an ordonnance, by which all cures were enjoined to record the declarations of all per- sons who presented their children, without question- THE BARONESS D'oBERKIKCH. 289 ing them in any way. This was to prevent certain cures from tr37"ing to cast a doubt on the legitimacy of Protestant children. It did not recognise the vahdity of Protestant marriages, but it gave us hope for a better future. The grand-duchess was as much pleased as I : in the bottom of her heart she still loved her ancient brethren. After mass we dined with the countess du ISTord, and went afterwards with Madame Beckendorf to visit the '' Gobelins/ This interesting manufacture is unique in Europe, and some persons assert that the beauty of the tints imparted to the wool is materially assisted by the waters of the little river that flows near. The king has presented several of these magnificent hangings to their imperial high- nesses ; they were shown to us, amongst others, and were of incomparable beauty. During this visit I was very much alarmed by Madame Beckendorf, who got ill three times. She over-fatigued herself, and notwithstanding the delicacy of her health, she would undertake anything or everything. We re- turned to sup with the countess Skawronski, who had invited us to meet a great number of Russians. My poor friend was so ill that she was obliged to go home, and I consoled myself with the countess de Bruce, a clever and beautiful woman, who had been a long timie honoured by the friendship of the empress, but which she is said to have lost through VOL. L U 290 MEMOIRS OF a jealous pique. They tell a rather strange story of this lady's powers of endurance. For an entire night she remained shut up in a press, where she ran the risk of being stifled, rather than appear before her irritated sovereign. When Catherine had retired, she was found almost expiring, but would never acknowledge the reason of her volun- tary punishment. Her husband, governor of St. Petersburg, did not share in her disgrace. I con- versed for a long time with this lady, whom I found very well informed, and without the slightest af- fectation. She laughed a great deal at one of her countrywomen, who was so tightly laced that she could scarcely breathe. " It is so delightful to inhale the air," said she. Perhaps she was thinking of the press. 81s^ May. — I went with the countess du Nord to visit 'Les Invalides.' The grand-duke admired this institution very much': we went over every bit of it. The dome is magnificent. Here, as every- where else, the grand-duchess was admired and wondered at for the extent of her information and the correctness of her taste. She criticised and praised the paintings of the chapels, and of the dome, like one who fully understood the subject on which she spoke. Every person was struck by the superiority of her mind and education. She spoke for a long time with the governor, M. d'Espagne. THE BAEONESS d'oBEKKIRCH. 291 The grand-duke inquired minutely into the state of these brave soldiers, who were better off then than when under the care of M. Leray de Chaumont, who was accused of amassing a fortune at the ex- pense of their comfort. The luxury of his delicious dwelling at Auteuil is considered a sufficient proof of the justness of the charge. This visit over, I called for the countess Skaw- ronski, and we went together to visit the ' Maison Thelusson.' This building was a strange fantasy ; it had already cost seven hundred thousand livres, •and was still far from being finished. It was one of the greatest attractions of Paris, and it was necessary to procure tickets of admission. It appeared to me more bizarre than beautiful ; the details were certainly most tasteful, and the stair- case superb. The arcade which looked on the street spoiled the perspective, and was universally condemned. People asked how would Mr. Thelus- son be able to support this establishment with the train of servants that it would require. He belongs to a very rich family of bankers. After dinner I set out again, still accompanied by the countess. We went to the Palais Royal, where we saw the pictures of the duke of Chartres, and the gallery of the Encyclopaedia. I was de- lighted with these pictures, amongst which were many chefs d'oeuvres ; but at the same time I do u2 292 MEMOIES OF not pretend to be veiy learned in the fine arts. We were very much amused by an old valet de chambre, who has charge of the invalids of the palace, without the walls of which he had not been for many years. He was born in the stables of the regent, to whom he was afterwards jockey. He had outlived many masters. He was very old, over eighty, but was still active, and related many a tale of past times. His greatest pleasure was to do the honours of the palace, of which he showed us every part, giving the history of every room and corridor. AVhen we offered him a recompense for his trouble, he refused it proudly, saying, " Monseigneur pays his people ; and the old La- place has eaten the bread of the house of Orleans since he was born.'' After leaving the Palais Royal we went to see the small house and garden of Mdlle. Dervieux, a celebrated " fille de Topera." It was a gem. The furniture alone was worth the ransom of a king. Both court and city had contri]3uted to its decora- tion. Although Mdlle. Dervieux was thirty, she had the reputation of being more beautiful than those even ten years younger. She made her debut on the stage at fourteen, and was long the rival of Mdlle. Grumard. This house was in the Rue Chantereine. The garden, which was ornamented with a thousand curiosities, was laid out a VAnglaise THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH. 293 If I were to describe all the beautiful tilings I saw there, I should never finish. This MclUe. Dervieux was said to be very clever. Amongst the witty sayings recorded of her, I will relate one which was stolen by Mdlle. Sophia Arnould, and which it is only just to restore to the rightful owner. " A young man from the provinces, of little note or fortune, fell desperately in love with this beau- tiful disciple'of Terpsichore. He wrote, he prayed, but all in vain ; she was deaf to his cries. At length one day he cast himself weeping at her feet, and implored her to grant him even a small portion of her love. " ' Will you not give it to me as an alms T said he. " ' It is impossible, sir,' said she, ' I have too many poor already.' " Here is the other : — The duchess of ***, a woman of very peevish temper, very wicked and very ugly, which latter quality she considered a serious misfortune, as she was a great coquet. (Am I not right in not telling her name ?) This lady had a great desire to see this celebrated house of the actress, and went there one day, accompanied by one of her adorers, who had also the reputation of playing the same part towards Mdlle. Dervieux. The duchess, like me, found the house without an occupant, at least apparently so, and thinking 294 ME^IOIPtS OF herself alone with her lover, gave free vent to the jealousy and the indignation with which all the luxury she saw inspired her. Of course the lady of the house was not spared. In entering the boudoir, the most delicious retreat in the world, she redoubled her exclamations. " Oh," said she, " this is too much, this exceeds all imagination ; it could only be equalled in the ' Arabian Nights !' -' At the same moment, a small door, skilfully con- cealed, opened, and showed the saucy and laughing face of Mdlle. Dervieux, who had been a concealed and angTy listener of all that had been said. " Yes, madam," said she, " you are right, and I doubt much whether you could offer anything half so charming." To what one exposes herself in entering into rivalry with these sort of persons ! I cannot under- stand how any woman could degrade herself thus, nor do I think that anything could excuse such conduct. I would not repeat these echoes of a dangerous and wicked world, but that I think it necessary to tell everything. After this visit, a little indiscreet perhaps, al- though we did not see any person, we visited St. Roch, St. Sulpice, and the church Des Quatre Nations, where we were shown the mausoleum of Cardinal Mazarin. It is a very fine piece of sculp- THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 295 ture, but inferior to the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu, which we saw at Sorbonne. I will not describe either, as every person must either have seen or heard of them, and I would wish to avoid as much as possible, all unnecessary details. We next bent our steps to the garden of the Tuileries. It was delightful to traverse its winding paths, and inhale the perfume of its million flowers. We did not leave this charming place until late, and I could scarcely have torn myself away then, if it were not that I had promised to sup with Madame Thavanet. At supper I met the Mackans, with whom I was becoming more intimate every day, and Mdlle. Zicart, a young lady who played very well on the harp. This instrument was just then coming very much into fashion, and many ladies looked on it only as an opportunity of dis- playing their lovely arms, and beautiful feet, besides that the attitude of the performer was very grace- ful. This, however, was not the case with Mdlle. Zicart, who was a very retiring person. I found much pleasure in her society, and took her and her mother home in my carriage. 1st June. — I dined with Madame Thavanet : M. d'Oberkirch could not come with me, as, to my great regret, he had been rather ill for some days. The dinner was very gay, I met there the countess of Clermont-Tonnerre, who had been married at 296 MEMOIRS OF tlie commencement of that year. She had been canoness of Remiremont, and lady of honour to Madame Ehzabeth. She was called Countess Del- phine de Sorrans. She wa,s lively, gay, and witty ; I felt a great desire to become intimate with her, which I afterwards did, and I will often again have occasion to speak of her. She told us that the day that the countess du Nord had been present at the theatricals at Versailles, that the king remarked that of all gentlemen present the marquis of G was the most elegantly and richly dressed, and complimented him upon it. This nobleman, who was very much in debt, replied to him with a serio- comic air, — " Sire, that is due.'' In the morning I had gone with the countess du Nord to see Bao'atelle, a charmino; little residence in the Bois de Boulogne, belonging to the count of Artois, who did the honours with his usual grace. We were entertained with a concert, at which every musician in Paris assisted. The grand-duchess was delighted. The collation was worthy an epicure. The count of Artois is a most amiabe man, and very clever, not like his brother, the count of Provence, serious and grave, but possessing the true French genius for raillery and repartee. The grand-duchess ad- mired him very much. As we were leaving, a gen- tleman of the court presented her the following impromptu, written in crayon : — THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 297 To all who around you admiringly throng, Noble pair, is your lineage revealed ; Had you wished an incognito lasting and long, 'Tis your virtues you should have concealed. After dinner M. d'Oberkirch having sent me word that he was better, I went to visit the prin- cess de Bourbon, with whom I found the duchess de Lauzun, and the princess de H^nin, her two friends. Madame Lauzun, grand-daughter of the marshal de Luxembourg, was one of the most charming women in the world, well informed, witty, accomplished, and of a most amiable disposition. She was very much admired ; but was generally sad on account of the conduct of her husband, who for- sook her society often for that of unworthy rivals, and who of late had the audacity to proclaim that he was deeply enamoured of the queen. Her majesty could not endure him. An anecdote of this gentleman's folly was whispered in all the drawing-rooms of Paris,— I say whispered, because no person would tell it aloud, to spare the feelings of his amiable wife. It is said that he had the effrontery to assume the queen's livery, and follow her all day as a lackey, and even spent the night crouched at the door of her apartment. The queen did not even recognize him: he was in despair, when fortunately an opportunity offered of making himself more conspicuous. Her majesty was to 298 • MEMOIRS OF drive from Trianon, and at the moment she ap- proached her carriage, he bent his knee to the ground, that she might tread upon it, instead of the usual step. Her majesty, surprised, looked at him now for the first time ; but like a woman of tact and good sense as she was, she did not pretend to know who he was, and calling a page she said — " I desire that that man should be dismissed ; he is very awkward ; he does not even know how to open a carriage door/" She passed on. M. de Lauzun was cut to the soul ; but, profiting by the lesson he had received, he very seldom after appeared at court. Madame de Lauzun does not complain, or even upbraid her husband, but she is generally silent and sad. The princess de Henin, who is equally neglected by her husband, takes it in better part, and declares herself very gTateful to his mistress, the celebrated actress, Mdlle. Arnould. She loves her husband just enough to prevent her hating him, and says that she is very glad he has got something to occupy him. " An idle man is so very wearisome," she adds. " Has the prince de Henin got something to do, then?" asked Mdlle. de Clermont, with malicious naivete. " Not from me, at least," replied the princess, THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 299 with the greatest coolness. The poor prince de Henin was in fact one of the most tiresome men in the world. I forget who it was that called him the prince dwarf The princess de Bouillon received the best and most select society. On the evening of which I was speaking, I met at her house a doctor from Holland, who had only come the same year to Paris, and who professed a very singular doctrine, which he summed up in these words : — " Friendship is a sentiment, which obliges one to receive everything from the person who is called a friend, but not to feel annoyed by the debt, as one should never feel embarrassed with a friend." At that time I was frightened and shocked by this doctrine ; but, as I get older, I am obliged to admit that there is some truth in the maxim of the Dutch doctor. 2nd June. — I went very early to the countess du Nord, who had asked me to accompany her in her visit to the royal library. We went, and spent several hours in looking at the scientific treasures it contains. What books, manuscripts, medals, curiosities, &c. &c. ! We examined particularly the two globes constructed by Father Coronelli, which were only just arrived. They have been since removed to Marly. They are the largest in 300 MEMOIRS OF the known world. They are placed upon columns in the great hall, in the rez-de-chaussde ; they are twelve feet in diameter, and M. count du Nord told me that the largest in St. Petersburg measured but eleven. The grand-duchess takes a great in- terest in everything relating to science and literature, and said that she would feel much more desire to possess the books she saw around, than all the gold of the world. She had been very strictly educated. The princess de Montbeliard had a great con- tempt for frivolity, and would not permit that her daughters should acquire any of our ridiculous French habits ; in which I think she was perfectly right. From the library we returned to dinner ; there were no strangers, and we conversed together for some time, — a pleasure which the gTand-duke prefers to all other amusements, and in which he performs his part very well. He laughingly told us what had happened to him the evening before, at the Sorbonne. He had gone to see the tomb of Eichelieu, and one of the learned residents of the establishment did the honours ; and when they came to the tomb, said, — " Your illustrious ancestor, Peter the Great, has knelt before this tomb, saying, ' Great man, if you still lived I would give you half my possessions to teach me how to govern the other half " " If I were the cardinal, monsieur,'' rej^lied the THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. SOI grand- duke, " I would not expect to keep the gift long/' There was great shrewdness in this answer, especially when it was uttered by a son of Cathe- rine II. General Wurmser took me to hear the opera of ' Theseus/ of which the music was composed by Sieur Gosset. The ladies were magnificently dressed. The music was applauded in the warmest manner ; it was very fine, particularly the chorus of demons. The acting was also very good. We had the Sieurs Legros and Larive, and Jvldlle. Duplau. The grand-duchess had made me promise to accompany her to the hal de Fopera, very much against my will, for I feel very little pleasure in such amusements ; but I would not wish to refuse her imperial highness. I supped with my dear princess, who was as joyous as a child, thinking of the pleasures of the ball. " I am going to be myself again,'' said she, '' until to-morrow." " Do not be so certain, madame," said the grand- duke. " You will have no more freedomx there than anywhere else ; and, for my part, I will have several spies there to watch you, for I am answer- able for you to the empress ; and, besides, the lieutenant of police will have ten of his men there. 302 MEMOIRS OF You will of course meet the queen, accompanied by the minister of the royal household, whose duty it is to be near her majesty on all such occa- sions. Do you think that enough ?" " Ah ! it is a great deal too much/' said the princess laughing ; " you have chased away all my gaiety — but I do not believe you/' The countess du Nord wore a superb domino e7h chauve souris (the latest fashion) ; it was left open in front to show her dress, which was mag- nificently embroidered "with jet and spangles. She did not leave her husband's arm until she took that of M. d'Amelot, minister of the royal house- hold, whose guardianship of the queen was under- taken by the count of Provence. The princesses went very little out of their box, and remained together all the evening. The queen never mixes in the crowd, without taking care that she may be knoA\Ti, although people accuse her of doing so. She goes once through the assembly. I heard of a very piquant remark addressed to the duke de Chartres by an unknown mask dressed as a tower ; it appears that it occurred quite close to me with- out my knowing it. The prince was talking to a lady, when this mask approached and took part in the conversation, which was not at all agreeable to the duke, and he let the mask see that he was an intruder. The mask persevered, and the duke THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 803 enraged asked him if he did not know who he was. The conversation had taken a very cynical tone, which was habitual to the duke, and on which he prided himself a great deal, although it was a great injury to him both at court and in general society. " I beg pardon, monseigneur," said the unknown, "I do know you, you have indeed unmasked your- self- The duke was stunned by this daring answer, and when he recovered his presence of mind, he said to one of the gentlemen of his suite who stood near — " Let that insolent man be arrested." The tower was seized, but it was empty ; its occupant had opened the door and disappeared amongst the crowd. The prince was outrageous, but there was no remedy. I remember the remark made by the count du Nord, with his usual pene- tration, when he was told of this adventure, 8.nd of some other things of this duke — " The king of France is very patient. If my mother had such a cousin he would not remain long in Russia. The consequences of these rebel- lions in the royal family are of more importance than may at first appear."^ I was very little amused by this ball. The atmosphere of such places breathes too much of 304 MEMOIRS OF intrigue. I do not know how any virtuous woman can find pleasure there — one is obliged to hear so many exjDressions that must make one blush. The Parisian ladies think nothing of it ; but we poor provincials, unaccustomed to such things, feel very much hurt, and for our particularity are only called prudes. Is that a disgrace ? Often when Hstening to what was passing around me, I have been inclined to consider it as a compliment. I THE BARONESS d'OBEEKIRCH. 305 CHAPTER XIII. Breakfast at the duke of Penthievre's — Account of the marriage of the duke of Chartres — The king's repug- nance to it — The CarmeHtes— M. Prati — Verses — Gross flattery — The duchess of Chartres' visit to the countess du Nord — Mesdames de Lcewestine and de Genhs — Estabhshment of St. Sulpice — Gift of the czarina — The Boutin folly — The count du Nord and M. Necker — • Madame Necker and her daughter — M. de Condorcet — Incident at Madame de Montesson's — Her marriage with the duke of Orleans- Remark of Madame du Barry — M. de Caumartin — Mdlles. Dugazon, Colombe, Lescot, and the Italian opera — Theatricals at Trianon — The queen speaks to me — At supper I sit next to Madame Elizabeth — Conversation about the Lort family — The female philosopher, author of thirty-two volumes. Srd June. — The countess clu Nord was so very- kind as to call for me at an early hour this morn- ing to bring me to Sceaux, the residence of the duke de Penthievre. She was to breakfast there, and insisted upon my going with her. I had no reason to regret my compliance. I visited a de- lightful abode : I saw the most virtuous, the best of princes, and the most charming of princesses. The count de Penthievre, son to the count de Toulouse, and grandson to Louis the Fourteenth, is certainly the most perfect man on earth. He lives at Sceaux in a charming retreat, far from the court, far from VOL. I. X 306 MEMOIRS OF intrigues. He is not yet consoled, and never will be consoled for the death of his only son, the prince de Lamballes. His is a grief that is beyond description, as it is beyond comfort. His only re- maining child is the duchess de Chartres, who has inherited her father's goodness and virtues, as well as his immense fortune. The marriage of Mdlle. de Penthievre, brilliant as was the connexion, took place against her father's will. Certainly the match was a great one. The first prince of the blood did great honour to an illeo^itimate race in allving^ himself with them. However, the prince de Penthievre did not desire the distinction. He did not ad- mire the duke de Chartres, and the happiness of his child was dearer to him than a brilHant con- nexion. The abbe de Breteuil, chancellor to the duke of Orleans, was the first who conceived the idea of this union, but the duke of Orleans was not inclined to consent. The prince de Lamballes was then alive, and the duke did not think the fortune of Mdlle. de Penthievre large enough to wipe away the stain of illegitimacy. Things continued in this state until the fatal illness of the poor prince de Lamballes. Then the abbe de Breteuil brought the matter again upon the tapis, and by the iiTc- sistible argument of a large fortune triumj)hed over the repugnance of the duke of Orleans. He THE BAKONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 307 begged the duke de Choiseul to arrange the affair. Durmg these proceedings, the prince de Conde asked the hand of Mdlle. de Penthievre for the duke of Bourbon, and he also apphed to the minister to further his aim. The duke de Choiseul did not conceal from him that his services were already engaged by the house of Orleans, and so gave him very little hopes of success. The duke de Penthievre had in fact accepted the Orleans" offer, arranged all his affairs, and made his will in favour of his daughter, but refused to give at that time more than fifty thousand crowns a year. The friends of Orleans exclaimed. M. de Penthievre replied that his son lived still — that though the physicians despaired of him God could work a miracle. The health of the prince was in fact im- proving. The duke of Orleans then withdrew his proposition, pleading the smallness of the fortune. The duke de Penthievre became furious ; the duke de Choiseul was also very angry with the duke of Orleans, and declared that during his life he would never again meddle with his affairs. The prince de Conde, observant of all these proceedings, thought the moment favourable to urge his suit ; the duke de Choiseul spoke for him. The duke de Penthievre would have perhaps yielded, but just at this time his son died. Then the Orleans family again came forward ; every calculation was x2 308 MEMOIRS OF macie ; the property of this house united to that of Mdlle. de Penthievre would amount to more than eight millions yearly ; such a prize ought not be allowed to escape. On the other hand, M. de Penthievre, offended though he was, felt the advan- tage of the connexion ; but what, above all, induced him to consent was the decided inclination of his daughter for the alliance. She had seen the duke de Chartres once at the house of Madame de Modene ; he handed her to her carriage ; and she declared, on returning to her convent, that she would never many any but him. But the great difficulty w^as to obtain the con- sent of the king. Whatever people may have said, and whatever they may still say, Louis the Fif- teenth had common sense ; he felt that this im- mense fortune would be a powerful lever in the hands of the first prince of the blood, and in times of revolt might become a dangerous weapon against the throne. He at first refused to consent. M. de Choiseul had much trouble to persuade him. " Sire, the elders have the crown, which places them beyond all rivalry." " Take care, duke, of giving the youngers the means of snatching it from them.'' The king refused for a long time, and at length yielded only to the entreaties of the duke de Pen- thievre, for whom he entertained a friendship THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 309 commenced in childhood. Still this consent was accompanied by restrictions and repeated observa- tions. " You are wrong, cousin ; the duke de Chartres has a bad temper, is a man of bad habits, he is a libertine. Your daughter Avill not be happy ; do not be in a hurry, wait.'' The princess, however, was in a hurry ; her father adored her, he yielded, and the marriage took place. Both father and daughter have often since had occasion to remember the words of the old king. All this did not render our fete at Sceaux less charming. The duchess de Chartres did the honours with extreme amiability. Fountains and jets-d'eau played in every direction. We made the tour of these beautiful grounds in open carriages drawn by six horses, and in which almost all the ladies found places. The society was very select — ^the breakfast was magnificent. The duke de Penthievre is adored by his vassals, who are loaded with his benefits. There is not an unhappy person at Sceaux. During the drive, their high- nesses were everywhere greeted with enthusiastic cries of joy ; I have never heard the like. How delightful it is to be loved as the good prince de Penthievre is by his vassals ! On returning to Paris I went to meet the SIO MEMO IKS OF Countess Skawronski, with whom I dined. We had made an appointment to visit the different churches. We went first to the two that are dedi- cated to St. Genevieve, then to the cathedral Notre Dame, le Val de Grace, and lastly to the Carmelite church. We there admired the superb picture of Madame de la Yalliere, representing the Virgin. It is there that this celebrated sinner finished her life in penitence and repentance, after thh-ty-eight years passed in retreat and tears. It is touching to reflect on this ; and no one thinks of reproaching her with faults which have been so bitterly lamented. We afterwards paid some visits, and supped with the countess du Nord. Nothing was talked of during supper but Sceaux and its owners. Our praises were inexhaustible. The count du Nord retained the most tender recollection of the good duke de Penthievre. That was indeed a prince according to his own heart. 4^A June. — Went to visit the countess du Nord, who showed me a ballad and a rondo for the harp- sichord, which had been presented to her the same morning by a musical composer, named M. Prati. They were ornamented with the cij)hers of the countess du Nord (Marie Federowna), and those of her husband (Paul Petrowitz), designed with great taste and elegance. Within the letters M. F. the following verses were inserted : — THE BARONESS D'OBERKIRCK. 3 1 1 Like the sweet flowers round lier springing, Bright and gentle Marie beams ; Nobly graceful, soft and winning, Like the youngest Grace she seems. Between the strokes of the letters P. P. the following lines were inserted : — When Europe Asia's victor saw O'er Russia rule by wholesome law, She wondering gazed ; her wonder rose, When regal power aside he throws, Could ev'ry tempting lure withstand, And knowledge seek from land to land. His crown shall now descend to you. And with his crown his genius too. The duchess de Chartres arrived in the midst of this discourse, accompanied by the countess de Loewestine, lady in waiting. The air and manner of the princess pleased and touched me still more than on the previous evening. Her smile is sad, and her eyes have a melancholy expression : when she ceases to speak, she sighs and seems lost in thought. She loves her children passionately, and one of her greatest causes of vexation is to see herself supplanted by Madame de Genlis in the direction of their education. I am not anxious to record scandals ; but this exceeds all the rest. Madame de Genlis, or Madame de Sillery, is very beautiful, very intellectual, but certainly a Httle pedantic ; she is a Mdlle. Necker refined. I do not know who has caricatured her armed with a 312 MEMOIRS OF stick of barley -sugar and a rod. No representa- tion could give a more correct idea of her character. Madame de Loewestine is daughter to Madame de Genlis. When the princess left, we went to visit the Gobelins, which I had already seen, but which I found pleasure in beholding again. The countess du Nord gave fifty louis to the workmen. AVe went afterwards to the establishments of the cure of St Sulpice, which the countess du Nord exa- mined minutely. The cure showed us everything himself, related a thousand interesting circum- stances, and presented to the gTand-duchess a golden medal that he had just received from the czarina, to whom he had sent a synopsis of his system. He was penetrated with gratitude, and lauded the empress to the skies. " You are perfectly right,'' said the princess, " the empress is the mother of her subjects ; she has the strongest intellect and the best heart in Europe." I have never heard the countess du Nord speak otherwise of the empress. Those who fancied that she entertained different sentiments were mistaken. I did not do much on this day. I returned home early ; their royal highnesses went to a private fete given by the duke of Orleans at his house in the Chauss^e d'Antin. oth June, — This was a very busy day. We were THE BARONESS d'oBERIvIRCH. 313 obliged to rise early and dress hastily, the countess du Nord having declared that she would take no excuse, and that I should accompany her every- where. Nothing could be more agreeable to me. My greatest happiness was to be with her, to see her as frequently as possible, knowing that I was not to enjoy this happiness long. We went before breakfast to visit the gardens of M. Boutin, rcceveur- general des finances, privy councillor and treasurer to the Admiralty. He is brother to the intendant des finances, who was so much talked of at the time of the formation of the East India Company. He called his garden ' Tivoli ;' but its popular appella- tion is ' Boutin's folly.' Folly it may well be called. He has expended or rather buried millions there. It is certainly a delightful place. At every step fresh wonders spring up : grottoes, groves, statues, and beautiful pavilions, furnished with princely luxury. It is only a king or financier who could indulge such expensive fancies. M. Boutin often gives suppers here, the elegance and luxury of which are in accordance with the sumptuous decorations of the place. After having seen Tivoli, where we were served with milk and fruits in golden vessels, we went to pay another visit, much more interesting in my opioion ; this was to M. and Madame Necker, at St. Ouen, where they had a country place. JA. o 14 MEMOIRS OF Necker had quitted the contvole-general in '81, after his celebrated conipte rendu. His disgrace or his retreat has made much noise in Europe Opinions are divided about him ; some praise him to the skies, whilst others blame him excessively. Whatever may be my sympathy for a Protestant, I must confess that M. Necker, after having spoken so much of diminishing the taxes, increased them. His enemies seem to have some grounds for ac- cusing him of charlatanism. The count du Nord conversed for an hour tete-a-tete with him. " I am come," said he, on entering the apart- ment, " to join my tribute of admiration to that of all Europe." It appeared to me that his highness, on quitting le grand homnie, was a little less enthusiastic. He asked us in the carriage whether we knew the fable of the sticks floating in the water. This remark from the lips of the grand-duke was sufficient evi- dence of his opinion. As to me, M. Necker's personal appearance did not please me. I was struck by his extraordinary likeness to Cagliostro. He does not, however, possess the Neapolitan's sparkling glance and spirit-striking expression. He was a mummied Cagliostro, of stiff and disagreeable aspect — a mere Geneva burgher. Madame Necker was still worse. Notwithstanding the high position she has occujDied, THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 315 she is a tutoress, and nothing more. She is pedantic and conceited beyond all bounds. Daughter of a village parson named Churchod, she received an excellent education, from which she drew a sort of perverse advantage. She is handsome, and not agreeable ; benevolent, and not loved. Her body, her mind, her heart, are deficient in grace. It seems as if the Almighty, before uniting her body to her soul, had steeped both the one and the other in a bucket of starch water. She has never pos- sessed the art of pleasing. In a word, she knows neither how to weep nor smile. Her father was poor ; she opened a boarding-school for young girls at Geneva. She w^as brought to Paris by Madame de Vermenoux, celebrated for her beauty and gallantry. This Madame de Vermenoux was intimate with the abb^ Raynal, with M. Mar- montel, with other philosophers, and, in short, with M. Necker. The latter soon wearied her ; I can imagine the rest ; he would have wearied me too. To get rid of him, she conceived the idea of marry- ing him to Mdlle. Churchod. " They will weary one another," said she, '' and that will be occupation for them." But it was strangers they wearied, for they adored 'one another, and their mutual compliments and flatteries were unceasing. Each became a thurifer to the other, especially Madame Necker, who 316 ME^IOIES OF burned large quantities of incense before her hus- band. Mdlle. Necker appeared to me a very different person from her parents, although she, too, had something of the Genevese stamp, and swung her thurible with great industry. But for her eyes, which are splendid, one w^ould almost say that she is ugly. Her figure is beautiful ; she is very fair, and there is a sparkling intelligence in her glance. I formed an opinion of her then which has since been realized ; she is and always will be a remark- able woman. The count and countess du Nord were very gracious in their deportment towards this family ; the gTand-duchess in particular said so many amiable things about their retirement, and the manner in which it was supported, that Madame Necker fainted, so deeply was she affected. The amiability, grace, and judgment of the princess, won every heart. This visit detained us until one o'clock. Their im- perial highnesses were expected at the Academy of Sciences, where they were received by the most dis- tinguished members. M. de Condorcet pronounced an emphatic, turgid, and conceited discourse. He entered into metaphysical discussions, very barren and weak in comparison to those of our German philosophers. The countess du Nord gave a sly THE BAEONESS b'oBERKIRCH. 317 glance at me whilst he poured forth this bathos. The count du Nord was presented with a piece of ivory, carved by Peter the Great, and of which he had made a present to the Academy in 1717 : it had ever since occupied a distinguished place in the collection. As for us, during all this time we were dying of hunger, so that the grand-duke, through compassion, abridged his admiration and his praises. Their imperial highnesses were shown out with the same ceremony with which they had been received ; but I can never forget Madame de Beckendorf, who, being enciente, had a perpetual appetite. Even whilst making her courtesy, she continued to nibble furtively a piece of bread that she had drawn from her pocket. She seemed like a little girl, afraid of the rod ; the grand-duchess could scarcely refrain from laughter at the sight. We sat at table like starving people. During dinner, the conversation turned upon the entertain- ment of the previous evening given by the duke d'Orleans, or rather by Madame de Montesson. The supper had been magnificent. The count du Nord had been rather ill, and did not stay for supper, neither did the grand-duchess. Their ab- sence was a serious mortification to Madame de Montesson. A little incident had occurred at the arrival of the princess, which annoyed her, and 818 MEMOIRS OF vexed seriously the cluke d'Orleans and tlie mistress of the house. Whilst Comus was making- his rounds, before the comedy, several persons had the indiscretion to take the best places in the theatre, without awaiting the arrival of the countess du Nord, nor leaving a vacant place for her. The duke d'Orleans testified loudly and warmly his ill- humour, and, notwithstanding all the efforts of the grand -duchess, who was very sorry to be the cause of so much annoyance, the persons who had taken the places were obliged to resign them. It was said at court that his serene highness, not being able to obtain j^ermission from the king to make Madame de Montesson duchess of Orleans, had become himself M de Montesson. As far as appearances went nothing could be more true. The prince identified himself mth the remarks, the quaiTels, and petty hatreds of the marchioness ; he saw only with her eyes, and certain it is that she had often made him forget his princely dignity. Madame de Montesson displayed in comedy much feeling and sensibility. She was a woman of talent, but cross and disagreeable when she wished. The reports relative to her birth did not agree ; some said she was noble, others plebeian, according to the likings or antipathies of the different parties. She had been first known as Mdlle. de la Haye, and married the duke de Montesson, a doting old THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 319 man, for the sake of his name and property. She won the affections of the duke d'Orleans, a worthy prince, but very dull. Before knowing this lady, his sole passion had been a devotion to the plea- sures of the table. Madame de Montesson had the address to keep him in her train, and to make a great display of virtue until the death of her husband, when his serene highness made her a proposal of marriage. The cunning puss accepted it, and paid great court to Madame du Barry during the life of Louis XV. Marriage was the aim and object of Madame du Barry. The degradation of the royal family weighed little with her ; and were the king inclined to marry her, she was incapable of that patriotic devotedness which, by refusing such an offer, would have saved the crown from being, so to say, trampled in the mud. It is well known that she said on this occasion, m her vulgar cant, to the duke d'Orleans, who prayed her intercession with the king, — " Marry first, gros peve — we will consider after- wards." He did marry, but he could never obtain permis- sion from the king to declare his marriage ; on the contrary, his majesty gave him to understand that if Madame de Montesson attempted, in any way, to take precedence of women of rank, he would, without ceremony, order her to be shut up in the 820 MEMOIRS OF Bastille. This decree was iiTevocable ; the prince complained, almost aloud. He was distractedly in love with the lady, and was in despair at not being able to give her the rank due to her charms. He gave her, at least, a fortune equivalent to her pretensions, for he expended extravagant sums of money for her, both at Sainte- Assise and at Paris. Amongst the performers favoured by Madame de Montesson, was M. de Caumartin, maltre des requetes, and son of the prevot des niarcliands.^ He was a young man of about thirty years of age, very agreeable, and a great favourite with ladies of all ranks. One of the ulcers of society, which is every day becoming more envenomed, and which will prove fatal if a remedy be not applied, is the attention paid by gentlemen to actresses and to women who disregard the ties of marriage. They devote a great deal of their time to them, not pub- licly, for they dare not do that, but in private. How many men ruin their properties to deck such women with gold and jewels ! It is an unparalleled scandal, repugnant to every upright mind, and to which no remedy has been yet applied, notwith- standing the lamentations of famihes. I have no desire to set myself up as a moralist, but I confess A rank corresponding to that of lord mayor of London. —E'litor's Note. THE BARONESS d'OBERKIRCH. 821 that I have often congratulated myself upon not having a son, that I may be free of this and other embarrassments. ^ih June. — I retired immediately after dinner to make my toilette, as I purposed going to the Italian Opera. I took a place in the box of the countess de Hall will. The piece was ' the Samnite Marriages.' It was not very amusing, but there are at the Ita- lian Opera three charming actresses, Mdlles. Du- gazon, Colombo, and Lescot. The first is very handsome, and plays with much spirit. The second has a lovely face, and a magnificent figure. The third is very graceful and artless in her ap- pearance. The following couplets have been made upon these three ladies : — C'est pour I'indolente richesse Que Ton inventa les soplias : Mais vers ce lit de la mollesse Mes desirs ne me portent pas. Je pref^re la belle nature A tous les coussins d'6dredon. Qui fait le mieux, je vous le jure Parler d'amour, c'est Dugazon. Circ6, changeant rhomme en oiseau, D'un seul coup de baguette, Fourmit la femelle au moineau, Le mile a la fauvette ; Chez elle, il faut s'appareiller : Qu'elle me transforme en raroier, Car j'aime la Colombe. VOL. I. Y 322 MEMOIRS OF En prenant des bains dans un fleuve, Mon mal de nerfs doit s'affaiblir, Je brule de tenter I'epreuve, Mais quel fleuve dois-je choisir? L'eau du Rhin n'est pas assez pure, Le Danube a trop de froidure, Le Senegal serait trop chaud, Je le vois, le mal que j 'endure Ne pent guerir que par VEscot. There is too much freedom of language and thought in these verses ; but I cite them in support of what I said a while ago. A spirit of unbridled licence is abroad. The free-and-easy manners which gentlemen acquired in the society of these demoi- selles has spread their contagion in circles within which deference should never be laid aside. Loose expressions are used in presence of the most re- spectable women. This is a trait of manners that I would not wish to omit, and of which the source is very remote. Volumes may be written on this truth, which is too true, as Figaro says. 6th June. — Mdlle. Schneider awoke me this morning at six o'clock This poor Schneider has never been able to learn a word of French, even in Paris, and makes incessantly the most comical blunders. She announces one name instead of another ; says that I am ill when I am perfectly well ; and a week since, made every exertion to induce me to swallow a dose of medicine that had been brought for M. d'Oberkirch, declaring that the THE BARONESS D'oBERKIRCH. 323 apothecary had said that it was for me, and that apothecaries ought to be obeyed. I had some difficulty in convincing her that the stuff was not for me. This blessed 6th of June she awakened me at the earliest dawn : I was to get my hair dressed, and make a grand toilette, in order to go to Ver- sailles, whither the queen had invited the countess du Nord, for whose amusement a comedy was to be performed. These court toilettes are never- ending, and this road from Paris to Versailles very fatiguing, especially when one is in coQtinual fear of rumpling her petticoat and flounces. I tried that day, for the first time, a new fashion — one, too, which was not a little genante. I wore in my hair little flat bottles shaped to the curvature of the head ; into these a little water was poured, for the purpose of preserving the freshness of the natural flowers worn in the hair, and of which the stems were immersed in the liquid. This did not always succeed, but when it did the effect was charming. Nothing could be more lovely than the floral wreath crowning the snowy pyramid of powdered hair. The countess du Nord was already in her apart- ment at the chateau when I arrived. I met the queen in the antechamber ; she had just left the 824 MEMOIRS OF princess. When I made a cnrtsy, slie had the goodness to notice me, and did me the honour of saying, with her customary grace, that she expected to see me that evening at Trianon. " I shall have much pleasure in seeing you there, baroness,'* added she ; " the countess du Nord speaks too frequently of you not to make us Avish to see you very often." The gi'and-du chess, to whom I repeated these words, did me the honour of sapng that nothing could be more gratifying to her, and that she would not fail to thank the queen. " A kindness done to my dear Lanele is more gratifying to me than if offered to myself.'' These were her very words. I was deeply affected. Friendship is a sentiment so rare in persons of her rank : but princes certainly need great discrimination to avoid being duped by their pretended friends. Self-interest is the universal touchstone and spring of action. Has God created man so egotistical, or is it the corruption of the times that has rendered him such ? I leave it to wiser heads than mine to decide the question. ' Zemire and Azore,' this delightful opera of M. Gr^try, was performed at Trianon. The sing- ing was enchanting. Her majesty is a very good musician, and pupil of the Chevalier Gluck. The THE BAEONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 325 little theatre at Trianon is a gem : the splendour of the diamonds was dazzling to behold. After ' Zemire and Azore/ ' La jeune Fran9aise an S^rair was performed. This is a ballet en action, by the elder Sieur Gardel, ballet-master to the queen. The dances were lively and grace- ful, the costumes admirable, and the actors still more admirable than the costumes. The court was radiant that day. The countess du Nord wore upon her head a little bird made of precious stones, so brilliant that no eye could gaze upon it steadily. It was fixed upon a spring ; the slightest movement of the wearer put it into motion, when it fluttered its wings above the rose on which it seemed to be perched. The queen admired it so much that she ordered a similar one for herself. Supper was laid on three tables ; places for a hundred persons at each table. I had the honour of being placed near Madame Elizabeth, and of beholding, at my ease, this pious princess. In the splendour of youth and beauty she refused every matrimonial alliance, that she might not be sepa- rated from her family. " I could only marry the son of a king,'' said she ; " and the son of a king should one day reign over the dominions of his father. I would be no longer French. I would not wish to give up my claim 326 MEMOIRS OF to my country : it is better to remain here at the foot of my brother's throne than to sit upon a foreign one." She did me the honour of speaking a great deal with me about the family de Lort, having known the mother at court and the daughter at St. Cyr. Madame Elizabeth still remembered this circum- stance, I do not know how, and made it the sub- ject of a very agreeable conversation.* The queen did me the honour of speaking to me several times, and of taking part in my conversation with the princess, whose remarks she caught notwith- standing the numbers who spoke around. The company afterwards descended to the gar- dens to see the illuminations, which were mag- nificent. Trianon is certainly an enchanting spot ; and yet the gardens of many private individuals have cost more, for example, the ' Boutin folly,' ^ St. James's folly,' the ' Beaujeu folly,' the park of ' Brunoy,' and many others. The queen has been accused of expending the public money on extravagant follies, because she got a Swiss hamlet built in her crarden. What an extravaojant ex- * The daughters of the baron de Lort were, the countess de Lort, canoness, who became ' intendante de la maison imperiale et royale de I'education,' founded at Milan by Napoleon ; the countess de Bernhausen, and a third sister. — Editor''s Note. THE BARONESS d'oBERKIRCH. 827 penditure for the queen of France ! ! ! Ah, envy, bitter envy is the secret cause of many of these outbursts of pretended justice. ^th June. — I returned from Versailles just in time for dinner. I had recovered the fatigue of the previous evening, and had walked a little in the park. After a conjugal dinner, I went to the house of an eheniste, named Pricourt, who made furniture of wondrous beauty : he showed us all kinds. I passed two hours there so agreeably that I was scarcely in time for the opera, whither I ac- companied the countess du Nord, who wished to see 'Thesee' again. My princess was delighted with the fete of the previous evening, and spoke incessantly of the queen and her kind attentions. " How I should like to live with her, and how delighted I would be if the count du Nord were dauphin of France, without ceasing to be czar ! '' added she, smiling. " I feel constantly the embar- rassment of rank, — how it thwarts the affections \" She gave me afterwards some very strange verses, which she had just received. I transcribe them with their conceited title : — A Prediction for the Countess du Nord, hy a Female Philosopher, author of thirty-two volumes. The star of the north, whose soft-beaming ray Throws over our court a radiance so bland, Seems to pause in its orbit, as wiUing to stay. And fix its abode in our happy land. 328 MEMOIRS, ETC. As it rises serene the clouds are dispersed, Apollo himself seems retracing his track, Recalling the rays that in showers were immersed, And leading young spring time all-blushingly back. It was not worth while to write thirty-two volumes to acquire the right to print a thirty- third of such nonsense as this. END OF VOL. I. PRIUTED BY SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET. r COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES This book is due on the date indicated below, or at the expiration of a definite period after the date of borrowing, as provided by the Ubrary rules or by special arrangement with the Librarian in charge. 1 DATE BORROWED DATE DUE DATE BORROWED 1 DATE DUE ■> I ■i ^m^ m ! 1 i C28(842)M50 920b22 O i ,r,:v';;,:;Ti ri'J^iv.r.l: