UULUMBIA LIBRARIES OFFSITE AVERY FINE ARTS RESTRICTED AR01 392395 m IE* ICtbrta SEYMOUR DURST When you leave, please leave this hook Because it has been said "Sver'tbing comes t' him who waits Except a loaned book." Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library NEW YORK by Sunlight and Gaslight. A WORK DESCRIPTIVE OF THE GREAT AMERICAN METROPOLIS. ITS HIGH AND LOW LIFE ; ITS SPLENDORS AND MISERIES ; ITS VIRTUES AND VICES; ITS GORGEOUS PALACES AND DARK HOMES OF POVERTY AND CRIME; ITS PUBLIC MEN, POLITI- CIANS, ADVENTURERS J ITS CHARITIES, FRAUDS, MYSTERIES, ETC., ETC. BY JAMES D. McCABE, AUTHOR OF "PARIS BY SUNLIGHT AND GASLIGHT," " PICTORIAL HISTORY OF THE WORLD "CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES," " CROSS AND CROWN," ETC. ILLUSTRATED WITH FINE FULL-PAGE AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS. JONES BROTHERS AND COMPANY: CINCINNATI, PHILADELPHIA, CHICAGO, KANSAS CITY. J. M. Olcott, Indianapolis; J. C. Chilton & Co., Detroit; T. N. James & Co., St. Louis; W. H. McClain, Des Moines. . m h I ma a) Copyright by DOUGLASS BROTHERS. 1SS1. t COLLINS, PKLNTEK. PREFACE. What Paris is to the Frenchman, or London to the Briton, New York is to the American. It is not only the Great Metropolis of the New World, but it is the chief attraction upon this continent, the great centre to which our people resort for business and plea- sure, and as such, is a source of never-failing interest. This being the case, it is natural that every American should de- sire to visit New York, to see the city for himself, behold its beau- ties, its wonderful sights, and participate in the pleasures which are to be enjoyed only in the Metropolis. Thousands avail themselves of this privilege every year ; but the great mass of our people know our chief city only by the descriptions of their friends, and the brief accounts of its sights and scenes which occur from time to time in the newspapers of the day. Even those who visit the city bring away but a superficial knowledge of it, as to know New York re- quires years of constant study and investigation. Strangers see only the surface ; they cannot penetrate into its inner life, and examine the countless influences at work every day in shaping the destiny of the beautiful city. Few, even of the residents of the Metropolis, have either the time or the means for such investigations. Few have a correct idea of the terrible romance and hard reality of the daily lives of a vast portion of the dwellers in New York, or of the splendor and luxury of the wealthier classes. One of the chief characteristics of New York is the rapidity with which changes occur in it. Those who were familiar with the city in the past will find it new to them now. The march of progress and improvement presses on with giant strides, and the city of to-day is widely separated from the city of a few years ago. Only one who has devoted himself to watching its onward career, either in prosperity and magnificence or in misery and crime, can form any idea of the magnitude and character of the wonderful changes of the past ten years. The volume now offered to the reader aims to be a faithful and graphic picture of the New York of to-day, and to give, in life-like iii IV PREFACE. colors, views of its magnificent streets and buildings, its busy, bustling crowds, its rushing elevated trains, its countless sights, its romance, its mystery, its nobler and better efforts in the cause of humanity, its dark crimes, and terrible tragedies. In short, the work endeavors to hold up to the reader a faithful mirror, in which shall pass all the varied scenes that transpire in New York, by sun- light and by gaslight. To those who have seen the great city, the work is offered as a means of recalling some of the pleasantest ex- periences of their lives ; while to the still larger class who have never enjoyed this pleasure, it is hoped that it will be the medium of their acquiring an intimate acquaintance with New York in the quiet of their own homes, and without the expense or fatigue of a journey. This volume is not a work of fiction, but a narrative of well au- thenticated, though often startling facts. The darker sides of New York life are shown in their true colors, and without any effort to tone them down. Foul blots are to be found upon the life of the great city. Sin, vice, crime and shame are terrible realities there, and they have been presented here as they actually exist. Throughout the work, the aim of the author has been to warn those who wish to see for themselves the darker side of city life, of the dangers attending such undertakings. A man who seeks the haunts of vice and crime in New York takes his life in his hand, ex- poses himself to dangers of the most real kind, and deserves all the harm that may come to him in his quest of knowledge. Enough is told in this volume to satisfy legitimate curiosity, and to convince the reader that the only path of safety in New York is to avoid all places of doubtful repute. The city is bright and beautiful enough to occupy all one's time with its wonderful sights and innocent plea- sures. To venture under the shadow, is to court danger in all its forms. No matter how " wise in his own conceit " a stranger may be, he is but a child in the hands of the disreputable classes of the great city. In the preparation of this work the author has drawn freely upon his own experience, the result of a long and intimate acquaintance with all the various phases of New York life. He ventures to hope that those who are familiar with the subject will recognize the truth- fulness of the statements made, and that the book may prove a source of pleasure and profit to all who may honor it with a perusal. November ist, 1881. J. D. m'c. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FAGS BARTHOLDI'S STATUE, "LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING THE WORLD," (Frontispiece) EVENING POST BUILDING (Full Page) 42 ODD FELLOWS' HALL 44 NEW YORK LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY'S BUILDING 45 DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE BUILDING (Full Page) 47 TRIBUNE BUILDING 4 8 STAATS ZEITUNG BUILDING 49 GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT (Full Page) to face 6i PAVONIA DOCKS, JERSEY CITY (Full Page) 90 BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF NEW YORK (Full Page) 93 BROADWAY, LOOKING NORTH FROM EXCHANGE PLACE 136 MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE BUILDING 138 ST. PAUL'S CHURCH (Full Page) 139 BROADWAY, AT THE POST OFFICE (Full Page) 141 LORD AND TAYLOR'S DRY GOODS STORE (Full Page) 150 SWELL TURNOUT ON FIFTH AVENUE (Full Page) 172 METROPOLITAN ELEVATED RAILWAY STATION, SIXTH AVENUE AND TWENTY-THIRD STREET (Full Page) to face 179 ELEVATED RAILROAD, CHATHAM SQUARE (Full Page) to face 183 COENTIES SUP (Full Page) to face 191 THE THIRD AVENUE RAILROAD DEPOT 241 MASONIC TEMPLE, SIXTH AVENUE AND TWENTY-THIRD STREET 252 METROPOLITAN ELEVATED RAILROAD, SIXTH AVENUE AND FOUR- TEENTH STREET (Full Page) to face 255 COACHING DAY IN CENTRAL PARK (Full Page) 263 COOPER INSTITUTE AND ELEVATED RAILROAD, THIRD AVENUE (Full Page) « to face 267 "PLEASE GIVE ME A PENNY" 271 SCENE ON WEST STREET (Full Page) 279 CITY HALL AND PARK (Full Page) to face 297 UNITED STATES SUB-TREASURY 299 CUSTOM HOUSE 301 CUSTOM HOUSE INSPECTION (Full Page) 303 STEINWAY HALL 307 COOPER UNION 309 NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN 312 GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT, FRONT VIEW (Full Page) 317 A VETERAN CALLER AT WORK (Full Page) 325 A CALLER WHO HAS HAD TOO MUCH PUNCH 327 NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE 335 BELL TELEPHONE EXCHANGE (Full Page) to face 351 CUNARD STEAMSHIP "GALLIA" 361 SOUND STEAMER BRISTOL (Full Page) to face 361 GRAND SALOON, SOUND STEAMER (Full Page) 363 COURTLANDT AND LIBERTY STREET FERRIES (Full Page) to face 367 AN ATTEMPT AT SUICIDE FOILED (Full Page) to face 397 \ VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAVONIA AND ERIE RAILWAY FERRY (Full Page) 405 THE TOMBS 410 SCENE IN A POLICE COURT (Full Page) to/ace 417 LUDLOW STREET JAII 419 UNION SQUARE, AT FOURTEENTH STREET (Full Page) to/ace 427 MADISON SQUARE (Full Page) 429 VIEW OF THE LAKE FROM THE TERRACE 451 THE LOWER TERRACE IN CENTRAL PARK 453 BRIDGE ACROSS THE LAKE (Full Page) 455 THE OBELISK (Full Page) 463 TRINITY CHURCH (Full Page) 471 A FANCY BALL AT THE BUCKINGHAM PALACE (Full Page) to face 481 A WATER STREET DANCE HOUSE (Full Page) 491 JAY GOULD 497 THE SIXTY-NINTH REGIMENT ARMORY 499 THE SEVENTH REGIMENT ARMORY 502 WM. H. VANDERBILT 503 RIVER PIRATES ESCAPING FROM THE POLICE (Full Page) 519 CREEDMOOR RIFLE RANGE 528 TOO MUCH RUM (Full Page) 531 HENRY BERGH (Full Page) 535 BROOKLYN BRIDGE AND EAST RIVER (Full Page) 538 SCENE IN A BROADWAY GAMBLING HALL 544 LOW CLASS GAMBLING DEN 547 THE TUNNEL UNDER THE HUDSON RIVER 554 A. T. STEWART & CO.'S RETAIL STORE (Full Page) 557 TENEMENT HOUSE IN BAXTER STREET (Full Page) to face 561 JERRY M'AULEY 564 MRS. M'AULEY 567 BOOTH'S THEATRE (Full Page) 575 GRAND OPERA HOUSE 576 THE HOMES OF THE POOR (Full Page) 582 SCENE IN THE CHINESE QUARTERS (Full Page) to face 585 SHANTIES IN EIGHTH AVENUE (Full Page; 587 HOSPITAL FOR CATS (Full Page) to face 591 THE EVENING MAIL BUILDING 600 CHEMICAL FIRE ENGINE 606 NEW YORK FIREMEN RESCUING A CHILD FROM THE FLAMES 611 HARRY U. ILLS (Full Page) 613 HON. JOHN KELLY 617 REV. HENRY C. POTTER, D.D 622 REV. JOHN C. HALL, D.D 625 REV. THOS. ARMITAGE, D.D 626 REV. W. M. TAYLOR. D.D 627 REV. ROBT. COLLYER. D.D 628 ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL (Full Page) 632 THE OLD BOWERY THEATRE 640 ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL 646 METROPOLITAN HOTEL 9 12 people since 1875, or 72,018 in ten years. The most densely populated portion of New York is the region embraced in the Seventh, Tenth, and Thirteenth wards, which lie upon either side of East MERIT WINS IN NEW YORK. 59 They take no root, and have no hold upon any genuine interest ; they attain no permanent success. It is only genuine merit that succeeds in the great city. Men are here subjected to a test that soon takes the conceit out of them. They are taken for just what they are worth, and no more, and he must show himself a man indeed who would take his place among the princes of trade, or among the leaders of thought and opinion. He may bring with him from his distant home the brightest of reputations, but here he will have to begin at the very bottom of the ladder and mount upward again. It is slow work, so slow that it tries every quality of true manhood to its utmost. The daily life of the dwellers in the great city makes them keen, shrewd judges of human nature, and they are pro- ficients in the art of studying character. It is said that New York is the wickedest city in the country. It is the largest, and vice thrives in crowded communities. How great this wickedness is we may see in the subsequent portions of this work. Yet, if it is the wickedest city, it is also the best on the Conti- nent. If it contains thousands of the worst men and women in our land, it contains also thousands of the brightest and best of Christians. In point of morality, it will compare favorably with any city in the world. It is unhappily true that the devil's work is done here upon a large scale ; but so is the work of God, upon an even greater scale. If the city contains the gaudi- est, the most alluring, and the vilest haunts of sin, it also boasts the noblest and grandest institutions of religion, of charity, and virtue. Being the great centre GO NEW YORK. of wealth and culture, New York is also the centre of everything that is good and beautiful in life. In its charities, New York is, as in other respects, the leading city of the Continent. It maintains its own charitable and benevolent institutions with a liberality, and upon a scale of magnificence and comfort, unequaled in other parts of the country. It spends millions to relieve suffering and disease within its own limits, andat the same time lends an open ear and a ready hand to the cry of distress from other quarters. There is no portion of the globe to which the charity of New York does not extend ; and when it gives, it gives lib- erally. When the yellow fever laid its heavy hand upon the Southern States during the summer of 1878, it was to New York that the sufferers first turned for aid; and the Metropolis responded nobly. In the course of a few months assistance in money and sup- plies was sent to the amount of several hundred thous- and dollars. During the recent war between Russia and Turkey, New York, with characteristic liberality, sent generous assistance to the sick and wounded of both armies. When Chicago was burned, the people of New York literally showered relief upon the afflicted citizens of the western Metropolis. It is enough for the great city to hear the cry of distress, no matter from what quarter ; its action is prompt and generous. The city authorities annually expend one million of dollars in public charities, while the various religious denominations and charitable associations expend annu- ally about five millions more. No record can be had of private charities — but they are large. This is the charity that begins at home. Of the aid sent to suffer- CHANGES IN POPULATION. 65 CHAPTER III. THE GROWTH OF NEW YORK. RAPID GROWTH OF NEW YORK DURING THE PAST THIRTY-FIVE YEARS— THE FLUSH TIMES AFTER THE WAR— EFFECTS OF THE PANIC OF 1873— A MOMENTARY CHECK — RETURN OF PROS- PERITY — PROSPECTS FOR THE FUTURE — INCREASE IN BUILDING OPERATIONS — HOW REAL ESTATE APPRECIATES IN VALUE— THE SECRET OF THE GREAT INCREASE OF WEALTH IN NEW YORK — FUTURE CENTRES OF POPULATION — WHAT NEW YORK WILL BE FIFTY YEARS HENCE — A GRAND DESTINY. We have already given the population of the me- tropolis according to the last three censuses, but before passing on, it will be interesting to glance at the growth of the city for the last thirty-five years. The United States Census is taken every ten years, and shows a marked change in every decade ; but the State Census, which is taken every five years, enables us to obtain a view of the movement of the city's population at shorter intervals. From it we learn that, notwith- standing the phenomenal growth of New York, there was a period, covering the duration of our civil war, when the metropolis, instead of increasing, actually de- clined in population. The returns since the year 1845, record the population as follows : In 1845, In 1850, In 1855, In i860, In 1865, In 1870, In 1875, In 1880, 371,223 5 I 5»547 629,810 813,669 726,386 942,292 1,064,272 1,209,561 70 NEW YORK. My motive for so leaving this property, is a firm per- suasion that it may, at no distant date, be the site of a village, and as it cost me much more than its present worth, from circumstances known to my family, I like to cherish the belief it may be realized to them. At all events, I want the experiment made, by keeping the property from being sold.' " Under the second date on the will — namely, June 23d, 1832 — the foregoing bequest is thus modified: — " 1 Whereas, in my said will I have left my farm, situ- ate in the Twelfth (formerly Ninth) ward of the city of New York, near the five-mile stone, to my son, James Lennox, for and during the term of his natural life, and after his death to his heirs, forever ; now I do hereby give and devise the said farm to my said son, James Lennox, and to his heirs, forever. At the same time, I wish him to understand that my opinion respecting the property is not changed, and though I withdraw all legal restrictions to his making sale of the whole or part of the same, yet I enforce on him my advice not to do so.' " A wise man in his generation was Robert Lennox. The farm at the five-mile stone originally cost the tes- tator somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000. Early in 1864, Mr. James Lennox, the fortunate legatee under the will quoted from, of the now historic farm, conveyed to his nephew, Robert Lennox Kennedy, the whole block between 7 2d and 73d streets, Madi- ison and Fifth avenues — a block 204 feet 4 inches in width on Fifth and Madison avenues and 420 feet in length on each street named. The consideration paid for this slice out of the golden farm was HISTORY OF THE LENNOX FARM. 71 $250,000. To Clarence S. Brown, on December nth, 1866, Mr. Kennedy, for $240,000, disposed of twenty lots on this block, comprising the whole front on 7 2d street, between Fifth and Madison avenues, and the plot 120 feet 2 inches by 100 feet, on the southwest corner of 73d street and Madison avenue. But four years had elapsed when Clarence Brown disposed of these identical lots to John Crosby Brown for $430,000. " Not to enter into further detail," said the gentleman who had furnished these particulars, " I may first add, that in 1875 tne f arm at the five-mile stone was valued at $9,000,000, without a building upon it. To-day I judge that the lot on the corner of 7 2d street and Fifth avenue, 27 feet by 100, would fetch in the open market in the neighborhood of $100,000, being more than twice as much as the shrewd old Scotchman paid for the whole thirty acres. At the present time the whole estate is probably worth $1 2,000,000. Many brokers have con- curred in the correctness of these views. Hall J. How said to me, only yesterday, 'Why, Amos Clark, of Boston, owns the lot on 7 2d street and Fifth avenue, and he would not sell it for $100,000/ "The late John D. Phillips was hardly so wise as the owner of 'the farm at the five-mile stone.' On the 2d of June, 1 85 1, he purchased of Peter McLaughlin the lot on the southeast corner of 84th street and Fifth avenue for $540. Tempted by the rapid rise in the value of the property, Mr. Phillips sold this lot to Stephen Roberts on the 18th day of August, 1853, for $1900. On Thursday last this identical property was purchased by George Kemp for $40,000. I wonder if it ever occurs to capitalists that, in the long run, more 88 NEW YORK. CHAPTER IV. THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK. NATURAL ADVANTAOFS OF THE HARBOR— THE OUTER AND INNER BAYS— EXCURSIONS— A TRIP DOWN THE HAKIiOK — SCENES ALONG THE ROUTE THE SHIPPING — THROUGH THE INNER BAY — GOVERNOR'S ISLAND — BEDLOe'S AND ELLIS* ISLANDS — BARTHOLDl's STATUE — LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING THE WORLD— THE KILL VAN KULL — STATEN ISLAND — THE NARROWS— THE FORTIFICATIONS — THE OUTER BAY — QUARANTINE— CONEY ISLAND — SCENES IN THE LOWER BAY— SANDY HOOK — OUT TO SEA— BACK TO NEW YORK. The Harbor of New York is one of the most beauti- ful sheets of water in the world. It consists of an In- ner and an Outer Bay, connected by the strait known as "The Narrows." Between them lie Staten and Long Islands, two natural barriers which render the Inner Bay one of the safest of snug harbors. The Outer Bay, though less sheltered than the Inner, affords safe and commodious anchorage for the fleets of the world. In the summer and early fall steamers make daily trips from the city to the ocean and back, and carry thousands of passengers bent on enjoying the sea breeze and the glorious scenery of the harbor. We invite the reader to take passage with us on one of these. We start from one of the up-town piers on the North River side, and make several landings between our point of departure and the Battery, at each of which we add largely to our cargo of human freight. The steamer glides swiftly along the city front, by the hundreds of vessels lying at the piers and anchored in the stream. Here, moored to their piers, each of which is covered by an enormous wooden shed, are the great European steamships. You may tell them by the color HARBOR SCENES. 89 of and the marks upon their smoke stacks. Two or three are anchored in the river, having just come in from the ocean voyage, and are still dingy and dirty with the smoke and grime of travel. Further down are the steamers plying between New York and Ameri- can ports, the floating palaces of the Hudson and Long Island Sound, and numbers of river craft. The huge ferry boats, black with passengers, cross and recross our track, and it requires not a little skill on the part of our steersman to keep safely out of their way. Tugs are puffing by us with heavily laden vessels, or vessels in ballast, guiding them skillfully along their course. The flags of all the countries of the world are floating out from ship and shore, and the river presents a gay and animated scene. On the opposite side is Jersey City, the most conspicuous objects of the shore line being the great ferry houses which mark the depots of the various railway lines leading south and west from New York. In the not distant future the tunnel now in construction under the Hudson will connect New Jersey with New York, and the railways will enter the city by means of it. The last landing has been made, and our steamer now turns her head toward the Inner Bay. Just off the Battery we pass a fine frigate and a monitor, fly- ing the national flag, and near them notice several foreign men of war riding at their anchors. From thi steamer's deck the lower end of the city and the spires and towers that rise from it make a pleasing picture, while across the East River is Brooklyn, its heights crowned with stately mansions, and between the two cities swings the great bridge that is to connect them. 92 NEW YORK. pedestal of the figure, which will rise high above any other object in the immediate neighborhood. " Allowing twenty feet for the height of the island above the water, the pedestal is to be one hundred and ten feet high, and the statue, to the flame of the torch, one hundred and forty-five. This makes the torch at least two hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of the Bay. It will equal in height the column of the Place Vendome, at Paris, and will be larger than the Collossus at Rhodes, so much celebrated by antiquity. Like that statue, it will have to be cast in pieces of man- ageable size, and built up, much after the manner of an armored frigate. The construction will be a curious piece of engineering skill. At night it is proposed that a halo of jets of light shall radiate from the temples of the enormous goddess, and perhaps the flame of the torch may be fashioned in crystal, in order that it may catch the light of the sun by day, and at night form a glowing object illuminated by electricity. " In respect to the pose of the statue, that has been calculated with care. A Liberty would have to be draped, even if a draped statue were not advisable, in a climate as cold as ours, where nude figures suggest extreme discomfort. But M. Bartholdi has also used his drapery to give a tower-like and therefore solid look to the lofty woman, without forgetting the neces- sity for variety in the upward lines. * * * * " She will stand so as to suggest that the strongest hurricane could never budge her from the pedestal she has chosen. Her gesture is meant to call the attention of the most distant person, and, moreover, to let him know unmistakably what the figure 104 NEW YORK. CHAPTER V. SANDY HOOK. DESCRIPTION OF " THE HOOK " — A NOTED LANDMARK — A SANDY WASTE — THE COVE — THE BEACH — THE LIGHT-SHIPS — THE LIFE SAVING STATION — SANDY HOOK LIGHTHOUSE — ITS HISTORY — THE KEEPER'S HOUSE — WRECKS — IN THE LIGHT»TOWER — A GRAND VIEW — OCEAN CEME- TERY — THE FORTIFICATIONS — TESTING THE HEAVY GUNS — THE NORTH LIGHT — THE SYRENS — THE TELEGRAPH STATION. Nineteen miles seaward from New York, on the western side of the Bay, is a narrow strip of white sand, projecting northward into the bright waters. Seen from a steamer's deck on a clear day it gleams like a streak of polished silver; but when the skies are dull and gray, or overhung with clouds, it lies leaden and dead in the half light. This is Sandy Hook, a long, low, sandy peninsular of drift formation, the continua- tion of a sand reef skirting the New Jersey coast. It projects northward five miles into the Lower Bay of New York, and forms the eastern breakwater of Sandy Hook Bay. In width it varies from fifty yards at the Neck, near Highlands Bridge, where jetties of brush- wood form but a frail protection against easterly storms, to a full mile at the point where the main light is located. Many an eye has watched this strip of sand sadly as some outgoing steamer turned its head to the sea and began its long way across the Atlantic ; and many a heart has beat more quickly as it came plainly into view, the homeward voyage over, for beyond it lie the bright waters and the smiling shores of home. SANDY HOOK LIGHT-SHIPS. 105 A pleasant and profitable afternoon may be spent in a visit to this interesting spot. Taking the Long Branch steamer, we are carried swiftly down the Inner Bay, through the Narrows, and out upon the broad bosom of the Lower Bay, which is finally left to the eastward, and our steamer passing into the calmer waters of Sandy Hook Bay, or, as it is more commonly called, " the Cove," lands us at the wharf of the New Jersey Southern Railway. Once on shore, we see a waste of sand all around us, covered thickly in parts with cedars and a scrub undergrowth, with clear patches of shining white here and there, and at intervals are a number of buildings which are used for various pur- poses. Leaving the railroad, we take our way over the sands towards the point of the Hook, and soon reach the bright and shining beach. At our feet the breakers roll in lazily with a monotonous plash as they waste themselves on the shore. Far away stretches the blue Atlantic, calm and fair to look upon now, but terrible at times. When the fierce gales of winter sweep down upon the coast, the surf comes rolling in "mountain high," and dashes upon the beach with a wild, angry roar, never to be forgotten by those who have listened to it. About a mile and a half to the eastward is the Scotland Light-ship, rocking lazily upon the placid sea, and six miles further east the Sandy Hook Light-ship is seen rising and falling with the long, regular heave of the ocean. The latter ship marks the point from which all vessels bound for New York shape their course for the Lower Bay, and from which the European steamers begin to reckon their voyages to the Old World. It is painted red, and carries two fixed 118 NEW YORK. CHAPTER VII. MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT. ORGANIZATION OF THE CITY GOVERNMENT — THE MAYOR AND BOARD OF ALDERMEN — THE COM' MISSIONEItS — DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS MUNICIPAL DEPARTMENTS — POWERS OF OFFI- CIALS — THE COURTS POLICE JUSTICES — THE MEN BY WHOM NEW YORK IS GOVERNED — RESPON. SIBILITY OF THE BETTER CLASSES FROM THE GROG SHOP TO CIVIL POWER — WHO THE LEAD- ERS ARE — THE " BOSS" — THE RING HOW BOSS TWEED MAINTAINED HIS POWER — SPASMODIC EFFORTS AT REFORM— MULHOOLYISM IN NEW YORK — AN INSIDE VIEW OF MUNICIPAL POLITICS — THE SLAVE OF THE RING LOOKING OUT FOR THE " BOYS " — THE INTERESTS OF THE CITY NEGLECTED — THE POPULAR WILL DEFIED BY THE RING. The City of New York is governed by a Mayor and a Board of twenty-two Aldermen, with various Boards of Commissioners. It is divided into twenty-four wards and 557 election districts, and constitutes the First Judicial District of the State. It sends 5 Senators and 21 Assemblymen to the State Legislature, and 7 Representatives to Congress. The Mayor is elected by the vote of the people for a term of two years, and receives a salary of $12,000 per annum. The Alder- men are chosen annually by the popular vote, and receive each an annual salary of $4000, except the President of the Board, who is paid $5000. 44 Six are elected by the voters of the city at large (no one being permitted to vote for more than four candidates), and three from each of the four lower Senate districts (no one being permitted to vote for more than two). The upper Senate district with the 23d and 24th wards elects four Aldermen (no one being permitted to vote for more than three)." The Mayor appoints the Commissioners and heads of departments, with the consent of the Board of Alder- BOARDS OF FINANCE AND TAXES. 119 men. These hold office for periods varying- from three to six years, and receive salaries ranging from $3000 to $15,000 a year. The principal department under the City Govern- ment is that of Finance. It has charge of all the fiscal affairs of the corporation, and is presided over by the Comptroller, who receives a salary of $10,000 per annum, and occupies the most important position, from a political point of view, in the city. He is generally the "Boss" of New York politics, and wields his power in a despotic manner. Next in importance is the City Chamberlain or Treasurer. He is appointed by the Mayor, and is confirmed by the Board of Aldermen. He receives a salary of $30,000, but out of this has to pay his office expenses, clerk hire, etc. The Department of Taxes and Assessments ranks next in importance. It consists of three Commis- sioners, appointed by the Mayor and confirmed by the Board of Aldermen. They hold office for six years, and one of them is President of the Board. The President receives $6500 a year; the others $5000. This Board fixes the rate of taxation upon real and personal property, and collects the taxes due the city. The Mayor, Comptroller, President of the Board of Aldermen, and President of the Department of Taxes, constitute a Board of Apportionment, which fixes the amount to be raised each year by taxation. This Board also decides how much shall be spent by the City Gov- ernment, and all appropriations for any branch of that government must receive its approval. It is thus really in possession of powers superior to those of the Board of Aldermen, and constitutes a check upon that body. 134 NEW YORK. CHAPTER VIII. BROADWAY. EARLY HISTORY OF BROADWAY — UNDER THE DUTCH AND ENGLISH RULE — PRIMITIVE NAME OF THE STREET — IT COMMENCES TO GROW — THE GREAT FIRE OF I776— THE BROADWAY OF TO- DAY — APPEARANCE OF THE STREET — A STROLL ON BROADWAY — THE LOWER STREET — TRINITY CHURCH — THE INSURANCE COMPANIES — THE TELEGRAPH WIRES — MAGNIFICENT BUILDINGS — SCENE FROM THE POST-OFFICE — A BROADWAY JAM — LOWER BROADWAY BY NIGHT — CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VARIOUS PORTIONS OF THE STREET — VIEW FROM CANAL STREET — THE HOTELS — AMONG THE PUBLISHERS — " STEWART'S " — GRACE CHURCH — BROADWAY AT UNION SQUARE — THE NARROWEST PART — MADISON SQUARE — A GRAND SIGHT — UPPER BROADWAY — A STREET OF MARBLE — THE GREAT HOTELS — THE CENTRAL PARK REACHED — STREET CARS AND OMNIBUSES THE NIGHT LIFE OF BROADWAY SCENES ON THE STREET — THE STREET WALKERS — THE ELECTRIC LIGHT — THE MIDNIGHT HOUR — BUSINESS ON BROADWAY. To the dweller in New York, Broadway is what the Boulevards are to the Parisian. It is the centre of life, gayety, and business; the great artery through which flows the strong life-current of the metropolis. From the Bowling Green to the Central Park, a dis- tance of five miles, it is lined with stately edifices and thronged with an endless crowd of busy workers, rest- less pleasure-seekers, the good and the bad, the grave and the gay, all hurrying on in eager pursuit of the objects before them. To the stranger it is the great " show street" of the city, and certainly no more won- derful sight can be witnessed than this grand thor- oughfare at high noon. The history of the street is the history of the city. It has grown steadily with it, shared its vicissitudes and good fortune, and, like a true mirror, has reflected every phase of the wonderful progress of New York. Broadway was laid out as a street by the original BROADWAY IN OLD TIMES. 135 Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam, and was called by them the " Heere Straas," or " High Street." In the days of the Dutch colony it was lined, especially on the east side, with rows of pleasant mansions, the gar- dens of which ran back to the marsh, on the present site of Broad street. Under the Dutch rule it was ex- tended to Wall street, where the city wall terminated it ; and beyond this were pleasant fields and pastures, where the portly " mynheers " turned out their cows to graze, and dreamily smoked their pipes under the wide-spreading trees. When the English came into possession of the city, and changed its name to New York, Broadway took a step forward. The character of the buildings was im- proved, and Bowling Green became the centre of a thickly settled and fashionable district. Mr. Archibald Kennedy, His Majesty's Collector of the Port of New York, built the house now known as No. i Broadway, a stately mansion in its day, and at one time the head- quarters of the British General Sir Henry Clinton. The great fire of 1776 greatly damaged the street, but it was afterwards rebuilt in a more substantial manner. By the opening of the nineteenth century, Broadway had advanced from the Old Dutch Wall to a point above the present City Hall Park, and by 181 8 it was built up beyond Duane street. In 1830 it had passed Canal street, and the portion between Chambers and Canal streets was the fashionable shopping quarter of the city. By 1 832 it had reached Union Square, and by 1841 had been extended to Madison square. Since that year the growth of the street to the Central Park has been steady and rapid. Year after year its various portions 13G NEW YORK. . have changed their character. Business has steadily driven out the residences, until now along the whole distance of five miles there is scarcely a dwelling house proper left. The first thing that strikes the stranger in looking BROADWAY, LOOKING NORTH FROM EXCHANGE PLACE. at Broadway, is its narrowness. The early citizens never dreamed of the future greatness of their favorite thoroughfare, and laid off a street with an average width of sixty feet. For many years past, numerous A BROADWAY JAM. 143 to cross Broadway, at times, at this spot, one must needs be a sort of animated billiard-ball, with power to carom from wheel to wheel until he can safely 'pocket' his personal corporacity on the opposite walk. The crush of vehicles here is sometimes so great as to delay movement for ten minutes or more, and it re- quires the greatest energy on the part of the police to disentangle the dense, chaotic mass and set it in pro- gress again. For those who are not obliged to cross the choked-up thoroughfare, the scene is full of a brief amusement — hack-drivers, truckmen, omnibus drivers, swearing vehemently at each other, or interchanging all kinds of 1 chaff' ; passengers indignantly railing at the delay, and police officers yelling and waving their clubs in their attempts to get the machinery of travel again running smoothly. If, at such a time, a fire- engine comes rattling up the street, post-haste for the scene of a fire, and attempts to enforce its right of way, the confusion becomes doubly confounded, and the scene a veritable pandemonium. Ordinarily, however* such tangles of traffic do not occur, for this locality is fully supplied with policemen, whose main business is to facilitate the passage of travel and prevent such a blockade as we have described. "The outlook down Broadway from the Post Office is in all respects picturesque and impressive, and fills the mind with a vivid sense of the immense activity of New York life. In the distance the towers of Trinity Church and the Equitable Life Insurance Building lift themselves as landmarks, and noble buildings thickly studding the squares between the New York Evening Post Buildingand the Western Union Telegraph THE FINEST VIEW IN NEW YORK. 151 west, lined with stately buildings. On the right is Madison Square, the handsomest of all the smaller parks, beautifully shaded with noble trees, and adorned with shrubbery, fountains and statuary. On the east side of the Square is Madison avenue, one of the stateliest and most fashionable streets of the metropolis. The Fifth avenue leads away to the northward, a splen- did mass of brownstone buildings, broken at intervals by numerous church spires. To the northwest is Broadway, lined with superb marble edifices as far as the eye can reach. The throng of vehicles and pedes- trians is very great here, coming and going in all directions, and all the streets which centre here pre- sent a gay and animated appearance, and the whole scene constitutes a panorama unequaled by anything in any of the great capitals of the Old World. Crossing 23d street and Fifth avenue at the same time, we come to the Fifth Avenue Hotel. This immense building occupies an entire square, from 2/d to 24th streets, and fronts on both Fifth avenue and Broadway. It is built of white marble, and is six stories in height. The block from 24th to 25th streets is occu- pied by the Albemarle and Hoffman Houses, in the order named. Both are of white marble. Immediately opposite, at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth avenue, is a handsome granite monument, erected to the memory of General W. J. Worth, a gallant soldier of the Seminole and Mexican wars. Facing this is the New York Club House, a tasteful red brick building, fronting on Broadway and Fifth avenue. Above this, and also fronting on both streets, is the famous restau- rant of Delmonico. At the southwest corner of 26th THE STAGE ROUTES. 157 CHAPTER IX. THE BROADWAY STAGES. POPULARITY OP THIS MODE OF CONVEYANCE — A CHEAP PLEASURE — DESCRIPTION OF THE VARI- OUS LINES — THE STAGES AS REGARDS COMFORT — THE OUTSIDE SEATS — "KNOCKING DOWN IN BY-GONE DAYS" — THE PATENT CASH BOX SYSTEM — THE 44 SPOTTERS " — A NIGHT RIDE WITH JEHU — THE 44 BOSS " ON THE WATCH — MYSTERIOUS SIGNALS — SKILL OF THE STAGE DRIVERS — A STAGE DRIVER PHOTOGRAPHED SUFFERINGS OF THE DRIVERS — UPS AND DOWNS OF THE CRAFT — THE MUTUAL BENEFIT ASSOCIATION. In spite of the success of the elevated railways, and of the large number of passengers carried by the street car lines, the stages or omnibuses still manage to hold their own. Until a year or two ago the fare on all the lines was ten cents, but since the completion of the elevated railways it has been reduced to five cents. The low fares and the fact that, except for a short distance on upper Broadway, the stages pursue routes free from the presence and competition of the street cars, enable them still to command a very large share of the street travel of the city. In Broadway, below Union Square, and in Fifth and Madison avenues, they are the sole dependence of those who wish to ride cheaply along those thoroughfares. The principal lines now are as follows: — The Broadway and Fifth Avenue, starting from the Fulton Ferry, on the East River, passing up Fulton street to Broadway, along which it continues to 23d street, where it enters Fifth avenue, and follows that thoroughfare as far as the Windsor Hotel. The Broadway, Twenty-third Street and Ninth Avenue, running along Broadway from the South KNOCKING DOWN. 159 sum to his own use. This led him to be veiy zealous in picking up passengers, for the larger the receipts the greater his chance of " knocking down " without detection. It was in those days a well-established fact that those who were the most skillful in helping them- selves always made the largest returns to the office. Now, however, each coach is provided with the Slawson patent cash-box, which is placed inside, at the front end of the vehicle. As he starts on his rounds the driver is furnished with little envelopes containing various sums, ranging from ten cents to two dollars. Each envelope contains a stage ticket and the balance of the amount, whatever it may be, in money. Passen- gers entering the coach, if they have the amount in change, deposit it in the Slawson box, which is so placed that the driver can see whether the correct fare is paid or not. If change is desired, the money is handed to the driver through a hole in the roof in the rear of his seat, and he returns an envelope containing a ticket and the remainder of the sum given him in change. The ticket is then deposited in the cash box by the passenger. As he must return the envelopes given him at starting, or their equivalent in money, the driver has no opportun- ity of "knocking down." His only opportunity for practicing the old game lies in the fares paid him by the outside riders, who cannot make use of the cash box. This has its risks, however, for he is closely watched, and the number of " outsiders " is carefully counted by " spotters " or spies placed along the route by the pro- prietor. Sometimes the " boss " takes this office upon himself, to the great disgust of the driver. One night, not long since, a Fifth avenue stage was THE "BOSS" ON THE WATCH. 161 you saw him; next trip he'll be down to Bleecker street; maybe he'll jump in and ride a few blocks. He's a sly one. He thinks more of a cent with a hole in it than I do of a good dinner. He hangs around every night till one o'clock, when the last 'bus goes up. He's got an awful grip on his gold, but some day some- body'll have his money to spend/' The thought of it gave an extra snap to the whip. "He does look pretty old, that's a fact." "Don't you worry about his dying off-hand. His father is alive now, up in Delaware county. No, sir; if I had his stamps I wouldn't hang around nights to catch a five-cent fare. When he finds a driver short a fare he docks him fifty cents." "How do the receipts now compare with the ten- cent days?" "We do more than double the business. A stage averages $3 more a day since they cut down to five cents. We used to take in $6 or $7, and now we count on from $9 to $11." It requires the nicest skill to drive a stage on Broad- way. Not only must the driver guide his ponderous vehicle safely through the crowded mass, but his quick eye must be all over the street, on the watch for pas- sengers, and he must be ready to stop to take up or let them down at any moment, and in such a manner as will not block the already crowded street. The ease and accuracy with which a stage will dart through a crowd of Broadway vehicles, never colliding with or in any way touching them, shows that Jehu has a firm hand and a quick eye. The stage drivers constitute a distinct and peculiar 11 THE CENTRE OF FASHION. 165 CHAPTER X. THE FIFTH AVENUE. FIFTH AVENUE THE CENTRE OF FASHION AND WEALTH— DESCRIPTION OF THE STREET — A GRAND PANORAMA LOWER FIFTH AVENUE— ENCROACHMENTS OF BUSINESS— FOURTEENTH STREET — THE 44 SWALLOW-TAIL" DEMOCRACY— AMONG THE PIANO MAKERS — CHICKERING HALL— CHURCHES CLUBS AND ART GALLERIES— TWENTY-THIRD STREET DELMONICO S— THE ASTOR RESIDENCES— STEWART'S MARBLE PALACE A REGION OF BROWN STONE— UPPER FIFTH AVENUE — THE HOTELS — THE CATHEDRAL — THE VANDERBILT MANSIONS — ALONG THE CENTRAL PARK THE LENOX LIBRARY — THE FIFTH AVENUE MANSIONS — HOMES OF WEALTH AND LUXURY — HOW THEY ARE FITTED UP — FIFTH AVENUE ON NEW Year's NIGHT — LIFE IN FIFTH AVENUE— THE WHIRL OF DISSIPATION WHAT IT COSTS THE STRUGGLE FOR SHOW THE " NEWLY RICH "—DARK SIDE OF FIFTH AVENUE LIFE THE SKELETONS FIFTH AVENUE HUSBANDS AND WIVES — THE CHILDREN— 44 ALL IS NOT GOLD THAT GLITTERS." Fifth avenue is the fashionable street, par excellence, of New York. It commences at Washington Square and extends to the Harlem river, a distance of nearly six miles, and is a broad, well-paved, and superbly built street for the first three miles of its course. To live and die in a Fifth avenue mansion is the dearest wish of every New Yorker s heart. Though the lower squares are being rapidly encroached upon by business edifices, the street as a whole maintains its character as the most magnificent avenue of residences in the world. The buildings along its course are mainly of brown- stone, though in the upper section, near the Central Park, marble and the lighter-colored stones are being used with pleasing effect. The avenue begins at Waverly Place, the northern boundary of Washington Square, and runs in a straight line to 59th street, the southern boundary of the Cen- tral Park, after which it skirts the eastern side of the Park to 1 1 oth street. At 120th street its continuity 1GG NEW YORK. is broken by Mount Morris Park, around which it passes, and commences again at 124th street, and pursues an unbroken line to the Harlem river. From Washington Square to the Central Park, a dis- tance of three miles, it is built up solidly, with magnifi- cent residences, splendid hotels and imposing churches. From 59th street, along the eastern side, it is being built up rapidly, and before many years have elapsed this section will be an unbroken line of buildings. It will be a very pleasant section, too, for the western boundary of the street will be the open expanse of the Central Park, and the occupants of the houses will have before them one of the loveliest landscapes in the world, as a source of perpetual enjoyment. From the upper end of the park to Mount Morris there are, as yet, no im- provements. Passing Mount Morris and entering the Harlem section of the avenue, we find it rapidly grow- ing, the houses here being equal in splendor to those below or opposite the park. Starting on our tour of inspection from Washington Square, we find the first blocks of the avenue occupied by stately, old-fashioned mansions, and shaded by fine trees. At the corner of Clinton Place is the Brevoort House, one of the most exclusive hostelries of the city, and largely patronized by English visitors. At the northwest corner of 10th street is the Episcopal Church of the Ascension, a handsome brownstone struc- ture, and on the southwest corner of nth street is the First Presbyterian Church, equally handsome, and also of brownstone. Fourteenth street is a busy, bustling, thoroughfare at its intersection with the avenue, and here are a number of fashionable "Apartment Houses," 178 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XI. ' THE ELEVATED RAILROADS. INCONVENIENCES OF OLD-STYLE TRAVEL — PLANS FOR RAPID TRANSIT — THE FIRST ELEVATER RAILROAD — THE PRESENT SYSTEM — THE METROPOLITAN AND NEW YORK ELEVATED ROADS — THE MANHATTAN COMPANY — DESCRIPTION OF THE ROADS — HOW THEY ARE BUILT— MODE OF OPERATIONS — STATIONS — EMPLOYEES— RAPID TRAINS — ADVANTAGES OF THE SYSTEM — ITS DRAWBACKS — IMMENSE TRAFFIC — RESULTS OF THE ELEVATED SYSTEM — RAPID GROWTH OF THE UPPER PART OF THE CITY — A RIDE ON THE ELEVATED RAILROADS — THE NIGHT TRAINS — FROM THE BATTERY TO HARLEM BY NIGHT. The peculiar conformation of Manhattan Island ren- dered it impossible for New York to grow but in one direction — from south to north. As the lower portions of the city were taken for business purposes, the popu- lation moved northward. In the course of time this state of affairs came about: the majority of the dwellers in the city had their places of business down town, at a distance of several miles from their residences. To reach the former in the morning, and return to the lat- ter in the afternoon, they were dependent upon the horse-cars and stages. These trips consumed a great deal of time, and imposed upon the people an immense amount of fatigue. Early in the morning and late in the evening the cars and stages were crowded, so that often the entire journey had to be made standing ; the vehicles were dirty and badly ventilated, and every discomfort was encountered. During heavy snows, hours would be sometimes consumed in making the journey, and at all times street blockades caused the loss of much valuable time. Altogether, the whole system of street travel was badly arranged, uncom- THE FIRST ELEVATED RAILROAD. 179 fortable, and entirely unsuited to the needs of a city like New York. This led to many plans for " rapid transit ;" that is, for a system of roads running the length of the city, and operated by steam, which should shorten the time between given points and increase the comforts of the traveler. At first these plans were for underground roads, but they were rejected almost as fast as pro- posed, as it was found that they would cost several million dollars per mile, and require a generation for their construction. After various other plans had been proposed, a company was chartered and began the construction of an elevated railroad on Green- wich street and Ninth avenue, from the Battery to the Central Park. It was proposed to operate the road by means of an endless wire rope, worked by station- ary engines at stated points along the line. This proved a failure, however ; the endless ropes would not work, and the stationary engines had to be abandoned. The road was then strengthened, dummy engines placed on it, and about 1870 it was opened for travel. After experiencing various changes of fortune it passed into the hands of the New York Elevated Railroad Company, and has since been rebuilt and strength- ened. It now forms a part of the western division of the New York Elevated Railroad. The next project was the Metropolitan Elevated Railroad, to run from Rector and New Church streets, by College Place, West Broadway, South Fifth avenue, Amity street and Sixth avenue to the Central Park. This scheme encountered a great deal of opposition from property holders along the route, but this was at NEW YORK SOCIETY. 195 CHAPTER XII. SOCIETY. THE VARIOUS CLASSES OF SOCIETY — THE BEST OF ALL — THE "OLD KNICKERBOCKERS" — A HEAVY SET OF SWELLS — RICHES AND CULTURE COMBINED— THE NEWLY RICH— THE CONTROLLING ELEMENT— HOW SHODDY GETS INTO SOCIETY — THE POWER OF MONEY— FASHIONABLE SNOB- BERY — FROM THE TENEMENT HOUSE TO THE FIFTH AVENUE MANSION — MANIA FOR COATS OF ARMS — HOW BOSS TWEED WAS VICTIMIZED SUDDEN APPEARANCES AND DISAPPEAR- ANCES IN SOCIETY " RICHES HAVE WINGS " A FAILURE AND A TRIUMPH — WHAT IT COSTS MONEY THE ONE THING NEEDFUL — EXTRAVAGANCE OF NEW YORK SOCIETY — LOVE OF DRESS — A FASHIONABLE LADY'S WARDROBE — FOLLIES OF THE MEN— PASSION FOR THE LEG BUSI- NESS FASHIONABLE ENTERTAINMENTS — THE END OF EXTRAVAGANT CAREERS — THE SKELE- TONS SOMETIMES COME OUT OF THEIR CLOSETS— FASHIONABLE BALLS AND PARTIES — KCW THEY ARE GIVEN — INVITATIONS — BALL ROOM SCENES — THE SUPPERS — A SWELL CONVERSATION FASHIONABLE THIEVES— -AN ARISTOCRATIC SNEAK THIEF— HOW A BROKER KEPT HIS PLACE IN SOCIETY A DETECTIVE'S EXPERIENCE IN FASHIONABLE LIFE — THE PRETTY WIDOW AND THE LACES — FASHIONABLE RECEPTIONS — WEDDINGS IN HIGH LIFE — ARRANGED ON A PECU- NIARY BASIS — MONEY THE ATTRACTION HOW HEARTS ARE BOUGHT AND SOLD — THE WED- DING FESTIVITIES GUARDING THE BRIDAL PRESENTS- — WHAT IT ALL COSTS — FASHIONABLE DEATH ONLY THE RICH CAN AFFORD TO DIE IN NEW YORK COST OF A FASHIONABLE FUNERAL — INTERESTING DETAILS. I. CONSTITUENT PARTS. Society in New York is made up of many parts, a few of which we propose to examine. The first class is unfortunately the smallest, and con- sists of those who set culture and personal refinement above riches. It is made up of professional men and their families — lawyers, clergymen, artists, authors, physicians, scientific men, and others of kindred pur- suits and tastes. Compared with the other classes, it is not wealthy, though many of its members manage to attain competency and ease. Their homes are taste- ful, and often elegant, and the household graces are cultivated in preference to display. The tone of this 196 NEW YORK. class is pure, healthful and vigorous, and personal merit is the surest passport to it. It furnishes the best specimens of manhood and womanhood to be met with in the metropolis, and its home-life is simple and at- tractive. In short, it may be said to be the saving element of the society of the metropolis, and fortunately it is a growing element, drawing to it every year new members, not only from the city itself, but from all parts of the country. It is this class which gives tone to the moral and religious life of the city, which supports the lectures, concerts, oratorios and scientific entertain- ments which form so pleasant a feature of city life, and it is seen in force at Wallack's and other leading thea- tres on the first night of some new play. Its members are generally sufficiently well-off in this world's goods to render them independent of the forms to which others are slaves. Travel and observation, added to natural abilities, enable them to estimate persons and things at their true value, and they maintain their posi- tions without caring to imitate or enter into competition with their wealthier neighbors. They are always ready to recognize and lend a helping hand to struggling merit, but sternly discountenance vulgarity and impos- ture. They furnish the men and women who do the best work and accomplish the greatest results in social and business life, and their names are honored through- out the city. The next class is composed of the descendants of the original Dutch settlers of New York, and style themselves "the Old Knickerbockers." They are clannish, and cling together, looking down with a lofty contempt upon all who cannot show a Dutch 202 NEW YORK. to be exclusive, and then it is hard to enter the charmed circle. Some years ago a gentleman, a man of brains and sterling merit, who had risen slowly to fortune, feeling himself in every way fitted for social distinction, resolved to enter society, and to signalize his entree by a grand entertainment. At that time he lived in a not very fashionable street, but he did not regard this as a drawback. He issued his invitations, and prepared his entertainment upon a scale of unusual magnificence, and at the appointed time his mansion was ablaze with light, and ready for the guests. Great was his morti- fication. Not one of those invited set foot within his doors. In his anger he swore a mighty oath that he would yet compel New York society to humble itself to him. He kept his word, became one of the wealthiest men in the city, indeed, one of the merchant princes of the land, and in the course of a few years society, which had scorned his first invitations, was begging for admis- sion to his sumptuous fetes. He became a leader of society, and his mandates were humbly obeyed by those who had once presumed to look down upon him. It was a characteristic triumph; his millions did the work. II. WHAT IT COSTS. Poverty is always a misfortune. New York brands it as a crime. Consequently no poor man, or even one of moderate means, can hold a place in New York society. Indeed, it would be simply impossible for any one not possessed of great wealth to maintain a posi- tion there, as to do this requires an almost fabulous outlay of money. As money opens the doors of the charmed circle, so money must keep one within it, HONOR SOLD FOR MONEY. 207 great though it be, melts steadily under such demands upon it, until there is nothing left, and bankruptcy and ruin end the story. From time to time the business community is startled by the failure, perhaps the sui- cide, of some nominally well-to-do merchant or banker. The affair causes a brief sensation and is soon forgot- ten. The cause is well known. "Living beyond his means," or "ruined by his family's extravagance," is the stereotyped reason given. Men suffer the tortures of the damned in their efforts to maintain their com- mercial standing, and at the same time to provide their families with the means of keeping their places in so- ciety. They are driven to forgery, defalcation, and other crimes, yet they do not achieve their object. Ruin lays its hand upon them, and the game is played out. As for Madame, she must have money. The hus- band may not be able to furnish it, and there may be a limit to even the pawnbroker's generosity ; but money she must have. Fashionable life affords her the means. She sells her honor for filthy lucre ; she finds a lover with a free purse, and willing to pay for her favors. She acts with her eyes open, a,nd sins deliberately, and from the basest of motives. She wants money and she gets it. Sometimes the intrigue runs on without detec- tion, and Madame shifts from lover to lover, according to her needs. Again there is an unexpected discovery; an explosion follows; Madame's fine reputation goes to the winds ; and there is a gap in society. No wonder so many fashionable women look jaded, have an anxious, half-startled expression, and seem weary. They are living in a state of dread lest their secrets be discovered and the inevitable ruin overtake them. FASHIONABLE SNEAK THIEVES. 213 of the man. The stealing which was here confessed is one of those crimes in the higher circles of society which are generally kept hidden from the public. "In the early part of last December the family of a prominent lawyer living on Fifth avenue gave a social entertainment, to which only persons of high standing in society were invited. The following morning it was discovered that rings, watches, and jewelry worth seve- ral hundred dollars, were missing. The most careful search and close examination of servants forced the conclusion upon the family that the robbery had been committed by some one of the guests, although this seemed incredible, as every name upon the list of those present seemed to forbid the thought of suspicion. The affair was put into the hands of private detectives, who were unable, however, to obtain the slightest clew to the thief or to the property. "A few days later a wealthy merchant entertained a large number of friends, and the following day a wed- ding ring and other jewelry, in value about $1000, but prized far more on account of family associations, were missing. Every nook and corner of the house was searched, and detectives watched the servants, but mys- tery continued to surround the matter. Meanwhile, another merchant held a reception in his brownstone house on a fashionable up-town street, and also suffered a loss during the evening of jewelry, watches, and other property, valued at from $200 to $300. The articles in this case were in a room where the gentle- men assembled, and the theft lay between some one of them and an old servant, whom the master of the house immediately exculpated, declaring that he did DETECTIVES AT FASHIONABLE PARTIES. 217 sented me with regular cards of invitation that the high-toned lady had brought with her. I was not a lit- tle embarrassed, you can well imagine, for ten years' knocking about among dangerous characters, and being constantly engaged in putting up jobs on the most brilliant members of what we call the ' swell mob/ had rather unfitted me for contact with members of the upper ten thousand, "' And I didn't have a dress suit! "'But that was easily managed, thanks to a costumer on the Bowery, and when I presented myself at the brownstone mansion at about half-past nine, I flattered myself I was quite the correct thing in my get-up. " ' Necktie, kid gloves, suit, boots, all proclaimed me the proper kind of guest. One thing I am certain of; I wasn't half as awkward as some of the gawks about me, and I hadn't been in the parlors ten minutes before I felt perfectly at my ease. "'The hostess introduced me as a friend of her late husband, and passed me over to a heavy old swell, who turned out to be in the grain trade. He got me in the corner, and kept buzzing me for nearly an hour about the crop failures in England, and the immense export- ing advantages it would be to this country. "'All this time, while I was listening to the aged cove, and trying to do my level best in replying to him, I didn't forget what I had come for. My eyes went up and down the room like a patrolman, studying each face and watching keenly if any of the guests disap- peared from the rooms, after formally entering them. There was no reason for anticipating any dishonest operation, and my position was looked upon, both by THE PRETTY WIDOW AND THE DETECTIVE. 219 " ' ' Hadn't I better take Mrs. a glass of wine ?' 'Certainly; it is very kind of you,' she replied, « and tell her I will be there in a moment to see if she needs anything else.' " 1 As I had anticipated, the parlor was empty, and what was more remarkable, the front door was open. " ' 1 went up the stairs as swiftly and as silently as I could. When I reached the door of the room contain ing the presents, I detected the odor of chloroform. " 1 The door was partially closed. I pushed it open, and it was easily seen from whence the scent came. There sat the darkey, insensible, in his chair, his head thrown back, his face covered with a handkerchief. The widow was in the act of pocketing the fichu, the position of the two parties in the room clearly showing how she had stolen on the negro unawares. I could have arrested her then, but I had a great curiosity to see what her future movements would be like ; so when she made a motion to turn, I stepped closely back in the shadow of the landing. She brushed past me, and floated down the stairs like a silken sigh, I after her. " ' All this hadn't taken more than five minutes. In- stead of going straight into the parlor, she passed to the front door, which, as I have said, was open. I crouched down, but still sufficiently in range of vision to see her beckon her coachman, who was, singularly enough, in the neighborhood at so early an hour. He came to the stoop, and she passed him the fichu. " 1 Then she entered the parlor again, and when I, in about ten seconds, followed her, she was the most beau- tiful sick woman, lying among the satin cushions of a sofa, that I ever saw. 250 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XIV. SIXTH AVENUE. RAPID ADVANCE OF SIXTH AVENUE IN PROSPERITY— DESCRIPTION OF THE STREET — THE LOWER PORTION — THE TENEMENT HOUSES — FRENCH FLATS THE ELEVATED RAILROAD AND ITS STATIONS — A BUSY SCENE — SIXTH-AVENUE STORES " MACEY'S " — THE JEFFERSON MARKET POLICE COURT — BOOTH'S THEATRE — THE MASONIC TEMPLE — " THE TABERNACLE" — SIXTH AVENUE BY NIGHT — A CHANGE OF SCENE — THE STREET- WALKERS — BRAZEN VICE — THE FRENCH WOMEN— SNARING A VICTIM SHAMEFUL SCENES ON THE AVENUE THE STREET A TERROR TO DECENT PEOPLE— THE ROUGHS— SIXTH-AVENUE OYSTER HOUSES AND BEER SA- LOONS — SCENE IN A FLASH SALOON — A YOUTHFUL CRIMINAL — THE DETECTIVE'S PRIZE — SIXTH AVENUE AFTER MIDNIGHT — A DRUNKEN SINGER — " IN THE SWEET BYE- AND-BYE " — NO EFFORT MADE TO CHECK THE EVIL. Of late years Sixth avenue has come prominently before the public as one of the most noted streets of the great city. It commences at the northern end of Carmine street, and runs northward to 59th street. At this point it is broken by the Central Park, but com- mences again at noth street, the northern boundary of the Park, and pursues its northward course to the Harlem River. It is traversed from its southern ex- tremity to the Park by the Metropolitan Elevated Rail- road, and below the arcade formed by this structure run the horse-cars of the Sixth-Avenue Railroad Com- pany, the northern terminus of which is 59th street. The avenue is solidly built up below the Park, and ranks next to Broadway as a business street, being devoted to the retail trade. In the lower part are a number of tenement-houses, but above 34th street the upper floors of the buildings are laid off in " French flats," some of which are elegant and stylish. For miles on both sides of the street are handsome retail stores, some of which are elegant and extensive enough ON THE ROAD TO RUIN. 255 Sixth avenue. Girls lounge about in the midst of the smoke ; do not hesitate to sit on the laps of gentlemen, and are always ready for one of the foaming glasses of beer which are pyramidally carried about by the ubiquitous waiters. There are many young men being ruined here. While we look on, an episode occurs that illuminates the whole subject as a flash of lightning does a gloomy wood. " At one of the tables has been sitting, with two girls of the town, a handsome boy of about eighteen years. The rose of health is still on his cheek, and, although the gin and water he has been drinking have given his eyes a false lustre, you can easily see that he hasn't gone far on the road. His vital organs are healthy. ; How about his moral tone ? " Directly back of him sits a silent and apparently abstracted individual, who has gone to such depths in a brown study that the glass of beer before him is as yet untasted, although it has been there ten minutes. " The youth gives the waiter a twenty-dollar bill, and his companions exchange glances. Just as the proprie- tor thrusts it into the drawer, the detective — for the abstracted man is none other — reaches over the bar, utters a few words, and takes the note and examines it. His suspicions are correct. It is a marked bill, marked that day in the down-town office where the unfortunate boy is employed. It is quite a tableau when the arrest is made. He turns pale as a ghost, and then goes out with an attempt at bravery and carelessness that is pitiable to behold. As for the women, in ten minutes they are drinking more beer, at the expense of some one else. PATENT DIVORCES. 281 CHAPTER XVII. DIVORCES WITHOUT PUBLICITY. CUEER ADVERTISEMENTS — THE " DIVORCE RING " — ITS FIELD OF OPERATIONS — THE DIVORCE LAWYER— WHO HE IS— HEADQUARTERS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE RING — SCENE IN A LAW- YER'S OFFICE — A RICH CLIENT — " OFF WITH THE OLD LOVE AND ON WITH THE NEW"— A CHARACTERISTIC CASE — " THE EASIEST THING IN THE WORLD TO GET A DIVORCE*' — WEST- ERN DIVORCES — 'HOW A MERCHANT MADE A MISTRESS OF HIS WIFE — WHO ARE THE CLIENTS COST OF A DIVORCE — HOW IT LS MANAGED — THE REFEREE SYSTEM — SPOTTING A HUSBAND — MANUFACTURING EVIDENCE — THE " OLD MAN " ENTRAPPED PROFESSIONAL WITNESSES — THE DIVORCE LAWYER'S SYSTEM OF DRUMMING UP BUSINESS — DIRTY" WORK FOR TEN PER CENT — SERVING A SUMMONS— A MOCKERY OF JUSTICE— POWER OF THE RING — THE COURTS AND BAR AFRAID TO BREAK IT UP. A leading New York daily, of a recent date, contains the following advertisements : — DIVORCES without publicity in 30 days ; all causes ; every State ; consulta- tion free; experienced lawyer ; success guaranteed. Smith, Brown & Co., 86 — Street. DIVORCES cheaply, without publicity; desertion, incompatibility, non-sup- port, intemperance, compulsory marriages; parties any State ; explanatory blanks free ; always successful; consultations free; confidential. Lawyer Smoothtongue, 105 — Street. Similar advertisements are to be found in other journals, especially in those of " sporting" proclivities. They announce to the public that there is in New York a powerful and regularly organized " Ring," whose business it is to untie the marriage-knot, and they guarantee to do it with the ease and celerity with which it is tied. This would seem strange in a State where the laws regulating divorces are so rigid ; but the di- vorce lawyer knows how to set even these at defiance, and that his efforts are successful, is shown by the handsome income he enjoys and the elegant style in which he lives. He does not rely upon New York 282 NEW YORK. alone for his field of operations ; other States are more liberal in this matter, and if the separation of husband and wife cannot be procured in the Empire State, he can easily accomplish it in some other part of the Union. The divorce lawyer devotes himself to this branch of his profession exclusively. He is sometimes an ex- member of the Bar, who has been disbarred for dis- honest practices, and cannot appear directly in the case himself. He hires some shyster lawyer to go through the formalities of the courts for him, and some- times succeeds in inducing a barrister of good stand- ing to act for him. His office is usually in the quarter most frequented by practitioners of standing, and is located in some large building with long halls, so that his clients may come and go without attracting special notice. The outer office is fitted up in regular legal style, with substantial desks and tables, and the walls are lined with cases of law books. The private consulta- tion room is elegantly furnished, and is provided with the coziest arm-chairs, in which the clients can sit at their ease, and pour into the sympathizing ears of the "counsellor" their tales of woe. Let us seat ourselves, unseen, in the private office of a leading divorce firm. They are located at the rear of a superb building on Broadway, and have ele- gantly fitted-up apartments. Counsellor , the head of the firm, conducts the consultations. He is a portly, smooth-faced, oily-tongued man, possessing great powers of cheek and plausiveness, just the man to lead a hesitating client to take the decisive step. A clerk from the outer office announces a visitor. A AN ATTEMPT AT SUICIDE. FOILED. 296 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XIX. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. THE CITY HALL— THE GOVERNOR'S ROOM — THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE— REMINISCENCES OF THE " TWEED RING" — THE HALL OF RECORDS — THE UNITED STATES SUB-TREASURY — THE GREAT VAULTS — HOW UNCLE SAM'S MONEY IS GUARDED — THE ASSAY OFFICE — THE CUSTOM HOUSE — A NOBLE EDIFICE— THE BUSINESS OF THE PORT OF NEW YORK — DUTIES OF OFFICIALS— THE BARGE OFFICE — PASSING THROUGH THE CUSTOM HOUSE — CUSTOM HOUSE BROKERS — TAM- MANY HALL — THE TAMMANY SOCIETY — POLITICAL ORGANIZATION — " BOSS KELLY " — THE COOPER UNION — WORK OF THE INSTITUTION — THE BIBLE HOUSE — A GREAT WORK DONE THE NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN — HOW THE SCHOOLS ARE CONDUCTED — ANNUAL EXHIBI- TIONS — THE YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION BUILDING — THE LECTURE ROOM — A REFUGE FOR YOUNG MEN — THE GRAND CENTRAL RAILROAD DEPOT — INTERNAL ARRANGE- MENTS — THE CAR HOUSE — THE FOURTH AVENUE TUNNELS. Apart from the great public edifices mentioned separately in these pages, there are many which de- serve special notice. Of the principal of these we propose to speak in this chapter. The most prominent of the public buildings is the City Hall, the headquarters of the Municipal Govern- ment of New York. It stands in the City Hall Park, in the rear of the Post Office, from which it is sepa- rated by a wide, open space, and between that building and the County Court House. The front and sides are of white marble, and the rear of brown sandstone. It is built in the Italian style, and was begun in 1803 and completed in 181 2, at a cost of more than half a million of dollars. It is 216 feet long and 105 feet deep, and is surmounted by a cupola containing a clock with four faces, which are illuminated by gas at night. On the summit of the cupola stands a statue of Justice. The building contains the Mayors office, the Common Council Chamber, the City Library, THE CUSTOM HOUSE. 301 The Wall street front is ornamented with a handsome portico supported by twelve front, four middle and two rear columns of granite, each thirty-eight feet in height. The building is constructed of Quincy granite, and was CUSTOM HOUSE. erected in 1835, at a cost, including the ground, of $1,800,000. It was used for a number of years as the Merchants* Exchange. It was subsequently sold to the United States Government for $1,000,000, and was COOPER UNION. 309 to a free library and reading room, and halls for lectures and for study. The institution was designed by Mr. Cooper for the free instruction of the working classes in science, art, English literature, the foreign languages, and telegraphy. Of late years there has been added to it a school of COOPER UNION. design for women. The course of instruction is very thorough, the ablest teachers being employed, and the standard of scholarship is high. Searching and rigid examinations test the proficiency of the pupils, and the graduates are sent forth into the world thoroughly prepared in the branches taught here. Mr. Cooper's plans have been ably carried out by the teachers in 316 NEW YORK. forms are sheltered by an immense glass and iron roof, of a single arch, with a span of two hundred feet and a height of one hundred and ten feet. The offices, baggage and waiting-rooms, etc., are located in the southern end and the western side. Besides these, the basement contains a police station, barber shop, and restaurant. The depot is occupied by four important lines of railways. The 4.26. street front contains the offices, waiting and baggage-rooms of the New York, New Haven and Boston, and the Shore Line Railroads ; and the Vanderbilt avenue, or western side, is taken up with the offices, baggage and waiting-rooms of the New York, Harlem and Albany, and the Hudson River and New York Central Railroads, the rooms of each road teing entirely separated from those of the other. The upper floors of the building are occupied by the offices of the various railway companies. All the apartments in the great structure are handsomely frescoed, finished in hard wood, and provided with every convenience. The car house, which comprises the principal portion of the depot, is very handsome. The roof is supported by thirty-one ornamental iron trusses, each one of which weighs forty tons and forms a single arch stretch- ing from side to side. Eighty thousand feet of glass admit the light of day, and at night the place is bril- liantly illuminated by gas jets supplied with large reflec- tors and lit by electricity. The platforms between the tracks and on the sides are constructed of a light- colored stone. Each road has its own tracks, and so perfect are the arrangements of the depot, that though 330 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXI. AMONG THE BULLS AND BEARS OF WALL STREET. DESCRIPTION OF WALL STREET — VALUE OF REAL ESTATE — ENORMOUS RENTS — ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF THE STREET — NOTABLE BUILDINGS — TRANSACTIONS OF THE STREET — THE SCENE AT NOON— THE STOCK EXCHANGE — THE LONG ROOM — OUTSIDE DEALERS— THE REGULAR BOARD — HOW BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED IN THE EXCHANGE — THE VICE-PRESIDENT — RULES OF THE EXCHANGE — GOOD FAITH EXACTED OF ITS MEMBERS — THE GOVERNMENT BOARD — CHARACTERISTIC SCENES — THE VAULTS AND THEIR TREASURES — THE TELEGRAPH INSTRU- MENTS — THE "TICKERS" — LIFE OF A STOCK BROKER — SPORTS OF THE EXCHANGE — THE CLEARING HOUSE AND ITS OPERATIONS— CURBSTONE BROKERS— RECKLESS TRANSACTIONS — STOCK SPECULATIONS— BUYING AND SELLING ON COMMISSION — UNCERTAINTIES OF THE STREET — HOW FORTUNES ARE MADE AND LOST ON WALL STREET — STOCK GAMBLING WHO ARE THB SPECULATORS— A DARING BROKER— " BLACK FRIDAY "—HOW AN OPERATOR WAS RUINED — STOCK SWINDLERS — SHARPERS IN WALL STREET — THE COMBINATION SYSTEM — A BAREFACED SWINDLE — ACTION OF THE GENERAL GOVERNMENT — HOW BOGUS OPERATORS FLEECE UNSUSPECTING CUSTOMERS— AN INSIDE VIEW OF THE COMBINATION SYSTEM — ENORMOUS PROFITS — THE SWINDLE EXPOSED — A WARNING TO WOULD-BE SPECULATORS. I. WALL STREET. Wall Street, the financial centre, not only of New York, but of the New World, is but half a mile in length, and is one of the narrowest thoroughfares in the Great City. It commences on the East side of Broadway, opposite Trinity Church, and runs direct to the East River, gradually sloping from its Western end towards the water. It is handsomely built up along the greater part of its course, and contains some of the most elegant buildings in the city. Marble, brown- stone and brick are the materials chiefly used, iron finding no favor in the financial heart of the city. The buildings are used for banks, brokers', lawyers' offices, and as the headquarters of some of the greatest cor- WALL STREET. 331 porations in the Union. The street contains the Stock Exchange, the United States Sub-Treasury and Assay Office, and the Custom House. All the buildings, with the exception of those just named, are filled from top to bottom with offices. Land is more valuable here than in any other section of the city; even Broad- way prices for real estate sink into insignificance when compared with those demanded in Wall street. Rents are in proportion, and the cost of a comfortable dwell- ing house is often paid for a year's use of a small office in a desirable location. Landlords reap a rich harvest here. Brokers must be close to the Stock Exchange, and the lawyers doing business here must be near their clients. These classes pay any rent asked in order to hold their places. The streets intersecting Wall street are lined for several blocks with banks, bankers' and brokers' offices, and are all included in the general term "Wall Street," in dealing with financial matters. Even Broad street is absorbed in the term, and yields precedence to its smaller rival. Wall street derives its name from the fact that under the rule of the Dutch, the northern wall of the city followed the line now pursued by the street. Long before the advent of the English, houses sprang up on each side of the wall, and the open space between them became a well traveled street, known as "Long de Wal," which was afterwards changed to the present name, Wall street. The wall was demolished in 1 699, and the stones were used to build a Town Hall, which stood on the site of the present United States Sub- Treasury. Prior to the Revolution, the lower part of 342 NEW YORK. carelessly or maliciously, shouts out, "I'll give '14 for a thousand; '14 for a thousand." The Vice-President plies his hammer: "Fine Ir- ving — fine Irving, fifty cents." The roll keeper proceeds to make his little note of it, and Irving, who has violated the rule, founded on common sense, which forbids a member making a bid below or an offer above the one which has the floor, immediately subsides, amid the laughter of his neighbors. Occasionally an interruption of a grosser character occurs, a member leaping from his seat on some slight provocation, and striking off the hat of the man who has offended. "Fine Harrison; fine Harrison again ;" "fine, fine him again." "Fine Harrison!" cries the Vice- president, repeating the word without cessation, until the broker's wrath has been appeased and he returns to his chair with the disagreeable reflection that a heavy score is against him for the semi-annual settle- ment day. Every repetition of that fatal monosyllable was a fresh mark of fifty cents or a dollar against his name. Generally, however, the Government brokers are more orderly than their neighbors in the Regular Board. Indeed, the whole proceedings are more decorous and respectful, the bidding, half the time, being carried on in a low conversational tone. At second call there is a brief excitement, but when things are dull throughout the street, this room peculiarly reflects the external influences. Very different it is, however, on days when some special cause provokes great fluctuations. Then the members spring from their seats, arms, hands, excitable faces, rapid vociferations, all come in play, and the ele- FORTUNES IN WALL STREET. 351 turn in the tide, and so they go on until they have nothing more to risk. if fortunes are quickly made in Wall street they are lost there with even greater rapidity. You may see men in rags, S o wretched that the Police Station is their lodging and the bread of charity their only sub- sistence, hanging about their old haunts in the street, watching the operators with wistful eyes, who were once high in the favor of the Exchange, and possessed of wealth and good commercial standing. They were ruined by stock gambling. Once they had palatial mansions on Fifth avenue, and were the favorites of fortune. Now they have no future, no hope. They have not the moral courage, even if they had the oppor- tunity, to seek to regain their former positions. They have fallen never to rise again. The best and most reputable firms in the street never speculate on their own account. They buy and sell on commission, and their only speculative dealings are for their customers. They take care in such cases to be protected by liberal "margins," which secure them against all possibility of loss. All sorts of people come into the street to tempt fortune, and the brokers could tell some queer tales of their customers did they see fit to do so. When a person wishes to speculate in stocks, it is not necessary for him to buy the securities outright, though that is by far the safer way in dealing with first-class stocks. If he can satisfy the broker that he is a responsible person, he will be allowed to begin operations by pay- ing down only ten per cent, of the value of the securities he wishes to deal in. Thus with $1000 he may buy 432 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXVII. THE PAWNBROKERS AND THEIR WAYS. THK SIGN OF THE THREE BALLS — LAWS RESPECTING PAWNDROKERS — HOW LICENSES ARE ISSUED — DISREGARD OF THE LAW BY THE PAWNBROKERS — SOURCES OF PROFIT — EXCESSIVE INTEREST — STORAGE CHARGES — SALES OF UNREDEEMED GOODS — WHO ARE THE PAWNBROKERS — THE JEWS — A DISHONEST CLASS — SUCKING THE LIFE BLOOD OF THE POOR — HOW CUSTOMERS ARE SWINDLED — CHARACTERISTIC SCENE IN A PAWN SHOP — THE JEWS' ONE PER CENT. — AN INSIDE VIEW OF THE BUSINESS — DRUMMING UP CUSTOM. The stranger in passing through East Broadway, the Bowery, Chatham, Oliver, Division, Catharine, Grand, Canal, Broome, or the neighboring streets, is struck with the number of quiet, dingy-looking shops over which are suspended the old sign of the Lombards — three gilt balls. These shops and the three-ball signs, all of the latter more or less dingy, may be seen in many other quarters of the city, but they are nowhere so numerous as in the streets named above, which are centres of the abodes of poverty and wretchedness. These are pawnbrokers' shops, and, as a rule, their proprietors are harpies, who suck the life blood of the poor, and grow rich upon their miseries. Of course, in all large cities there must of necessity be a great aggregation of poverty and misery. To the poor the pawnbroker is a necessity. They must have some place to which they can repair at once, and, by pledging such articles as they possess, raise the pittance they so sorely need. Municipal legislators the world over recognize this necessity, and endeavor to throw such safeguards around the business of pawnbroking that the poor shall not be entirely at the mercy of the AN INTERVIEW WITH " MINE UNCLE." 437 stuffy, and the room smells strongly of garlic or onions. A man with an unmistakeably Jewish face and a villain- ous expression of countenance stands behind the nar- row counter, the greater part of which is partitioned off from the public part of the room. We take our stand, invisibly, of course, and watch the proceedings. A young man enters, well dressed, and rather dissi- pated in appearance. The child of Abraham watches him narrowly, and begins to shake his head and groan, as if in pain. The visitor approaches the counter, and lays a gold watch upon it. The broker clutches it eagerly, examines it, and groans louder than ever. "Vat you vant on dis vatch?" he asks, mournfully. "Fifty dollars. It cost me one hundred and fifty," is the reply. "Fifty tollar! fifty tollar! Holy Moshish, vat you take me for!" Then, turning, he calls wildly, "Abraham! Abraham! you shust koom hier, quick." A second Jew, dirtier and more disreputable looking than the first, makes his appearance, and the proprietor, passing the watch to him, and holding up his hands, shrieks out, as if in despair, "Abraham! he vant fifty tollar on dat vatch. De man ish grazy." "Ve shall be ruined," echoes Abraham, hoarsely. " Ve couldn't do it. 'Tish too much." The proprietor waves his arms wildly, takes the watch from Abraham, and eyeing the owner sharply for a moment, says : — "I tell you vat I do. I gif you fifteen tollar. How long you vant de monish ? " "Only for a month," replies the young man, evidently struggling between disgust and despair. "OLD TRINITY." 469 CHAPTER XXIX. TRINITY CHURCH. " OLD TRINITY'' — THE THREE CHURCHES — DESCRIPTION OF TRINITY CHURCH— THE INTERIOR — THE ALTAR AND REREDOS— THE WINDOWS — THE SERVICES — FINE MUSIC — DAILY SIGHTS IN TRINITY — THE SPIRE — THE CHIMES — VIEW FROM THE SPIRE — THE CHURCHYARD — NOTED TOMBS— TRINITY PARISH— THE CHAPELS— WEALTH OF THE PARISH— ITS NOBLE WORK. The most interesting church edifice in New York is Trinity Church, or, as it is affectionately termed by the citizens, " Old Trinity." It stands on Broadway oppo- site the head of Wall street, and forms one of the most conspicuous objects on the great thoroughfare. The present edifice is the third that has stood on the site. The first church was completed in 1697, an< ^ was de- stroyed in the great fire of 1776. A second church was built in 1 790, and in 1839 tms was demolished, and the present stately edifice begun on its site. It was completed and consecrated in 1846. Trinity is one of the few specimens of pure Gothic architecture to be found in the United States, and is stately and beautiful within and without. It is built of brownstone from the base to the summit of the spire, and the interior is finished in the same material. The walls are fifty feet high, and the arch of the ceiling is sixty feet above the floor of the church. The roof is supported by massive brownstone columns. The spire is two hundred and eighty-four feet in height, and is surmounted by a bright gilded cross. The church con- sists of a nave, choir, and aisles. On each side of the choir are the vestry rooms. The south room contains 470 NEW YORK. the offices of the clergy, and is also the robing room. The north room contains a fine tomb, with a full length effigy in stone, to the memory of Bishop Onderdonk. The chancel occupies the choir, and is beautifully fitted up. At the sides are stalls for the clergy and choris- ters, with a fine organ on the north side, and at the back are the altar and reredos, which were erected as a memorial to the late William B. Astor, by his sons, both of whom are active members of the church. They are very beautiful, and are of a soft colored stone, richly ornamented with sculptures. The windows of the church are of stained glass, those at the sides being very simple. The great window back of the altar is a magnificent work. Over the Broadway entrance is a gallery containing the grand organ, one of the most powerful instruments in the city. Trinity is noted for its elaborate services. Morning and evening prayer are celebrated in simple style every day, but on Sundays and feast days the full choral service is used. The choir consists of men and boys, carefully trained by the Musical Director; they are surpliced, and are famous for their skill. No grander or more impressive service can be heard in the land than in Old Trinity on Sunday mornings. The church is always kept open during the day, and it is no uncommon sight, during business hours, to see numbers of persons kneeling in the pews of the church in silent prayer. A soft, subdued, holy light streams in through the colored windows, giving to the beautiful interior an air of solemnity, in harmony with its sacred char- acter. The spire of the church faces Wall street, and is 474 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXX. THE LOST SISTERHOOD. PREVALENCE OF PROSTITUTION IN NEW YORK— POLICE STATISTICS — FIRST-CLASS HOUSES — THE PROPRIETRESS — THE INMATES THE ARISTOCRACY OF SHAME THE VISITORS — VISITS OF MARRIED MEN AVERAGE LIFE OF A FASHIONABLE PROSTITUTE THE NEXT STEP — THE SECOND-CLASS HOUSES — TERRORS OF THESE PLACES — THE GREENE STREET BAGNIOS GOING DOWN INTO THE DEPTHS THE NEXT STEP THE WATER STREET HELLS — AVERAGE LIFE OF A PROSTITUTE — "THE WAGES OF SIN IS DEATH" — HOW YOUNG GIRLS ARE TEMPTED INTO SIN EFFORTS TO SAVE AN ERRING DAUGHTER THE STREET WALK- ERS — THE PANEL HOUSES — HOW MEN ARE ROBBED AND MURDERED IN THESE HOUSES — THE CONCERT SALOONS — THE WAITER GIRLS — THE DANCE HALLS — THE " BUCKINGHAM " — THE "CREMORNE" BUCKINGHAM BALLS ASSIGNATION HOUSES PERSONALS— THE MID- NIGHT MISSION — REFORMATORY ESTABLISHMENTS — ABORTIONISTS — THE WICKEDEST WOMAN IN NEW YORK. Prostitution is an appalling evil in New York. One can scarcely look in any direction without seeing some evidence of it. Street walkers parade the most prom- inent thoroughfares, dance houses and low concert halls flaunt their gaudy signs in public, and houses of ill-fame are conducted with a boldness unequalled anywhere in the world. The evil is very great, but it is far from assuming the proportions that some well- meaning, but misinformed, persons have assigned it. Some years ago Bishop Simpson, of the Methodist Church, made the startling assertion, at a public meet- ing, that the prostitutes of New York were as numer- ous as the members of the Methodist Church in that city. This drew from the Superintendent of Police a statement, in which he showed that while the evil was undeniably very great, it was not so bad as the Bishop had reported it. The truth is that there are about 600 houses of prostitution and about 90 assignation houses PROFESSIONAL PROSTITUTES. 475 in New York. The number of women known to the police as professional prostitutes is about 5000, in which estimate are included several hundred waiter girls in the concert saloons. The Census of 1880 returned the female population of New York as 615,- 815. This would give one professional prostitute for 123 females of all ages in the entire city. These fig- ures are horrible enough to contemplate, but they are not so bad as the statement referred to above. Of the number of women who resort to prostitution as a means of obtaining money, or from other motives, and who yet manage to retain positions of respectability in society, of course no estimate can be made. They are, unfortunately, very numerous, and are said, by per- / sons in position to speak with some degree of accu- racy, to equal the professionals in numbers. These things are sad to contemplate, and disagree- able to write about. The whole .subject is unsavory ; but no picture of New York would be complete did it not include an account of this terrible feature of city life, which meets the visitor at almost every turn ; and it is believed that some good may be accomplished by stripping the subject of all its romance, and presenting it to the reader in its true and hideous colors. The professional women of New York represent every grade of their wretched life, from the belle of the fashionable house of ill-fame to the slowly dying inmate of the Water street brothel. They begin their careers with the hope that they will always remain in the class into which they enter, but find, when it is too late, that they must go steadily down into the depths, 476 NEW YORK. closing their lives with a horrible death and a pauper's grave. The first-class houses of New York are conducted with more or less secrecy. It is the object of the pro- prietress to remain unknown to the police as long as possible, but she finds at last that this is impracticable. The sharp-eyed patrolmen soon discover suspicious signs about the house, and watch it until their suspicions are verified, when the establishment is recorded at police headquarters as a house of ill-fame, and placed under the surveillance of the police. These houses are few in number, the entire city containing, accord- ing to police reports, not more than fifty. Large rents are paid for them, and they are generally hired fur- nished. They are located in some quiet, respectable portion of the city, and outwardly appear to be simply private dwellings. It often happens that the neighbors are in ignorance of the true character of the house, long after it is well known to the police. It is hinted that even Fifth avenue is not free from the taint. The houses are magnificently furnished, and every attrac- tion is held out to lure desirable visitors to them. The proprietress is a woman of respectable appearance, and passes as a married woman, some man generally living with her, and passing as her husband. This enables her, in case of trouble with the authorities, to show a legal protector and insist upon her claim to be a married woman. The inmates are women in the first flush of their charms. They are handsome, well dressed, generally refined in manner, and conduct themselves with out- ward propriety ; rude and boisterous conduct, im- A FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 485 much discouraged. Not so my friend, who told me there was another lady down the street, who was really in want of girls to help her. We went to her house. It was another of the same sort ; but after I got in there my own clothes were tatcen away from me, and the lady furnished me with some sort of silk, trimmed with fur, and tried to make me behave and act like the other girls in her establishment. I remained there from Saturday to Wednesday night, because I could not get away. I had no clothes to wear in the streets, even if I should succee8 in reach- ing them, which was impossible, and the woman who kept the house was angry with me, and treated me brutally because I would not comply with her wishes. I and another young girl tried to escape by climbing over the fence of the back yard. The other girl got away, but I was discovered by the barkeeper, who drove me back into the house, with curses. On Wednesday evening I was made to sit at the window, and call a man, who was passing, into the house. He turned out to be a detective, and arrested me, and brought me here." The girl's story proving to be true, the magistrate restored her to her friends, and caused the arrest of the keeper of the house. The police are often called upon by the relatives of abandoned women to assist them in finding them, and rescuing them from their lives of shame. Sometimes, in the cases cf very young girls, these efforts are suc- cessful, and the poor creature gladly goes with her friends. Others again refuse to leave their wretched haunts ; they prefer to lead their lives of infamy. THE FIRST DIVISION. 499 CHAPTER XXXII. THE NATIONAL GUARD. THE FIRST DIVISION— ITS ORGANIZATION — HOW ARMED — APPROPRIATIONS BY THE CITY — PRIVATE EXPENSES — THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF — EFFICIENCY OF THE TROOPS — PAST SERVICES OF THE FORCE — OVERAWING THE MOB — PUTTING DOWN RIOTS — A REINFORCE- MENT TO THE POLICE— DISCIPLINE— THE ARMORIES — THE SEVENTH REGIMENT ARMORY — PARADES. The military organizations of the City of New York constitute the First Division of the National Guard of the State of New York, and are justly regarded with SIXTY-NINTH REGIMENT ARMORY. pride by the citizens of the Metropolis. The division numbers about 6,500 men, and consists of four bri- gades, which are divided into nine regiments of in- 502 NEW YORK. • strength of a fortress and the elegance and comfort of a club-house. It cost over $300,000, and the inte- rior was decorated and furnished at the expense of the regiment. The regimental drill room is 300 by 200 feet in size, and besides this there are ten company drill rooms, an officers' room, a veterans' room, a field and staff room, a gymnasium, and six squad drill rooms. SEVENTH REGIMENT ARMORY. The parades of the division are among the sights of the city, and draw great crowds to witness them. The martial bearing of the troops, their splendid uni- forms and equipments, and the perfect discipline which marks every movement, elicit hearty applause from the citizens who line the entire route of the march. THE RICHEST MAN IN NEW YORK. 503 CHAPTER XXXIII. WILLIAM H. VANDERBILT. THE RICHEST MAN IN NEW YORK — EARLY LIFE — BECOMES A FARMER — ENTERS THE RAILROAD WORLD— BECOMES VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE NEW YORK CENTRAL SYSTEM— SUCCEEDS THE OLD COMMODORE — THE VANDERBILT PALACES — LOVE OF FAST HORSES. The richest man in New York is Wfilliam H. Van- derbilt, Esq. He is the oldest son of the late Com- modore Vanderbilt, and was born at New Brunswick, New Jersey, on the 8th of May, 1821. He obtained his early education at the Columbia College Grammar School, and at the age of eighteen began his business career as a clerk in the banking house of Drew, Rob- 506 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXXIV. CRIME IN NEW YORK. PROFESSIONAL CRIMINALS — THEIR NUMBERS — THE THIEVES— SUPERINTENDENT WALLING's DE- SCRIPTION OF THEM — THB> THIEF LANGUAGE — GRADES OF THIEVES — BURGLARS — BANK ROB- BERS — SNEAK THIEVES— CONFIDENCE MEN — HOW THEY OPERATE — THE PICKPOCKETS — WHERE THEY COME FROM— THE ROGUES' GALLERY— THE RIVER THIEVES — DARING CRIMES — THE FENCES— HOW STOLEN GOODS ARE DISPOSED OF— TRICKS OF THE FENCES — THE ROUGHS— BLACKMAILERS — HOW THEY FLEECE THEIR VICTIMS. Strange as it may seem, men and women of certain grades of intellect and temperament deliberately de- vote themselves to lives of crime. These constitute the " professional criminals," who make up such a ter- rible class in the population of every great city. In New York this class is undoubtedly large, but not so large as many people assert. That it is active and dangerous, the police records of the city afford ample testimony. It is very hard to obtain any reliable sta- tistics respecting the professional votaries of crime, but it would seem, after careful investigation, that New York contains about 3000 of them. These consist of thieves, burglars, river thieves, fences, and pick- pockets. In addition to these we may include under the head of professional criminals, the following : — Women of ill-fame, about 5000 ; keepers of gambling houses, and of policy and lottery offices, about 600, making in all nearly 9000 professional law-breakers, or about one professional criminal in every 136 in- habitants in a population of a million and a quarter. This is a startling statement ; but unhappily it is true. THE NATIONAL RIFLE ASSOCIATION. 527 CHAPTER XXXV. CREEDMOOR. THE NATIONAL RIFLE ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA— THE CREEDMOOR RANGE— THE GROUNDS THE TARGETS — SHOOTING MATCHES — NATIONAL GUARD PRACTICE — AMATEUR MARKS- MEN. The rifle range of the National Rifle Association of America is located at Creedmoor, a little village on Long Island, about thirteen miles from New York. The association owns a tract of eighty-five acres of land, enclosed with a substantial fence, and levelled and sodded with turf. Buildings for the use of the association and marksmen are erected within the grounds, and at the extreme end of the lawn thirty- iron targets are placed, giving any desired range from 50 to 1200 yards. At various intervals are placed a "running deer" target, " a tramp" or "moving man" target, and a " ringing target," in the last of which a bell is rung when the centre is struck. A fine clock- faced wind dial is placed at a conspicuous point to show the marksmen the direction of the wind, and numerous flags and streamers are planted along the range for the same purpose. Frequent shooting matches are held at Creedmoor during the year, and draw large crowds from New York, Brooklyn, and the surrounding country. The scene at such times is very brilliant, as the ladies attend the matches in large numbers, and take great NEW YORK. interest in the sport. All the proceedings are regu- lated by a fixed code of rules, a violation of which subjects the offender to a forfeiture of the privileges CREEDMOOR RIFLE RANGE. of the range. Each regiment of the National Guard of New York and Brooklyn is required to practise at the Creedmoor range several times during the year, NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXXVII. HENRY BERGH. THE FRIEND OF THE BRUTE CREATION— ESTABLISHM ENT OF THE " SOCIETY FOR THE PRE. VENTION OF CRUELTY TO ANIMALS " — WORK OF MR. BERGH — HOW HE BECAME A TERROR TO TWO-LEGGED BRUTES — A NOBLE RECORD. One of the most familiar figures upon the streets of New York is that of Henry Bergh, the President of the " Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Ani- mals." Tall, erect, neatly dressed, and with a counte- nance remarkable for its expression of kindness and benevolence, he never fails to attract attention as he passes slowly along, seemingly preoccupied, but keep- ing a keen watch over the dumb creatures along his route, to whose protection he has devoted his life. Twenty years ago Mr. Bergh came to the conclu- sion that his mission in life was to protect dumb ani- mals from the cruelties practised upon them. He entered upon his self-appointed task with enthusiasm, drew others into the good work, and in 1866 suc- ceeded in organizing the Society of which he is the president. The necessary legislation was carried through the Legislature of New York through the ef- forts of the society, and its officers were empowered to enforce the laws thus enacted. Mr. Bergh is fifty-seven years old, and is possessed of ample means. He is devoted to the cause he has espoused, and serves the Society as its president with- out pay. Since he began his work he has created a HENRY BERGH. G16 NEW YORK. CHAPTER XLIX. JOHN KELLY. "BOSS KELLY " — BIRTH AND EARLY LIFE — EDUCATION — BEGINS LIFE AS A STONE-CUTTER — ENTERS POLITICAL LIFE — BECOMES AN ALDERMAN — ELECTED TO CONGRESS HIS CAREER IN THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES — IS ELECTED SHERIFF — LOSS OF HIS FAMILY- ASSISTS IN OVERTHROWING THE TWEED RING— LEADER OF TAMMANY HALL— APPOINTED COMPTROLLER — REMOVAL FROM OFFICE — PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS. One of the most noted men in New York is John Kelly — or, as he is commonly called, "Boss Kelly" — the leader of the Tammany Hall Democracy of the Metropolis. He is credited by his friends with being one of the most skilful political leaders in the country, and denounced by his enemies as the very embodi- ment of political trickery and corruption. His friends are warmly devoted to him, and his- enemies hate him with an intense bitterness. His sway over his partic- ular branch of the Democracy is absolute, and he can control its vote, and make or unmake political for- tunes with a power unsurpassed by that of any old- world despot. Mr. Kelly is of Irish parentage, and is # a native of the Fourth Ward, the classic region which produced his famous predecessor, " Boss Tweed." He received his preliminary education in the parochial school of St. Patrick's Cathedral, which he left at the age of twelve years. He subsequently attended the night schools established by the Board of Education, and displayed an ardent desire to obtain a liberal edu- cation. Upon .leaving the Cathedral school, he was apprenticed to learn the trade of a grate-setter and 1 HE TAMMANY BOSS. 617 soapstone-cutter, in which he became a proficient workman. He was a steady, resolute young man, without vicious habits, and exhibited a strong devo- tion to his widowed mother. In after years he edu- JOHN KELLY. cated his younger brother and established him in business, and extended similar assistance to his sis- ters, all of whom have become women of remarkable character. CHINESE QUARTER. 620 NEW YORK. CHAPTER L. RELIGION IN NEW YORK. NUMBER OF CHURCHES IN NEW YORK — VALUE OF CHURCH PROPERTY — THE DUTCH REFORMED CHURCH— THE EPISCOPALIANS — GRACE CHURCH— ST. THOMAS'S— " THE LITTLE CHURCH AROUND THE CORNER " — THE LUTHERANS — THE PRESBYTERIANS — THE FIFTH AVENUE- CHURCH — THE BAPTISTS— THE METHODISTS— ST. PAUL'S CHURCH— THE CONGREGATIONAL- ISTS — THE QUAKERS THE UNITARIANS — THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH — ST. STEPHEN'S ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL — THE JEWS — THE TEMPLE EMANU-EL — LOWER NEW YORK DES- TITUTE OF CHURCHES— FASHIONABLE RELIGION— STRANGERS IN CHURCH— THE MUSIC — PROFESSIONAL SINGERS— A TENOR'S SENSATION— THE FIFTH AVENUE PROMENADE— PEW RENTS — CHURCH DEBTS— RECKLESS EXTRAVAGANCE. There are more than five hundred churches, chapels, and places used for religious worship in New York, with seating accommodations for about 600,000 people. These are divided among the Orthodox Protestant de- nominations, the Roman Catholics, Quakers, the Greek Church, and the Jews. Of these, the Protestant churches number nearly 450, the Catholics over 40, the Quakers 5, the Greek Church 1, and the Jews 27. The total value of church property in the city is about as follows : Protestant, $30,000,000, exclusive of en- dowments ; Catholic, $8,000,000 ; Jews, $2,000,000 ; the Greek Church, $10,000. Apart from their church property, the various denominations own numerous schools, hospitals, and charitable and benevolent insti- tutions, which swell the value of their real estate to an enormous figure. It is of the churches, however, that we propose to treat here. The oldest denomination in the city is the Dutch Reformed. It was planted here by the first settlers of New Amsterdam, and the church records extend back, G34 NEW YORK. of the city, almost all being located above Canal street. Trinity, St. Paul's, and one or two others, are all that supply the religious wants of the dwellers in this sec- tion. One ward in this region, containing 30,000 people, has not a single place of worship in it, with the exception of a Chinese Joss house, which is kept, by its votaries, in the background. The morning services at the various churches, especially at the more fashionable temples, bring out a goodly crowd of worshipers, and it is difficult to obtain a seat. At the fashionable churches the lady members of the congregations have a bad habit of wait- ing until the services have begun before putting in an appearance. Then they sail up the aisles, to their softly cushioned pews, arrayed in all the finery to which they have devoted so much attention during the past week. These late entrances disturb the worshipers, but they enable the ladies to show off their toilets, and that, after all, is what the churches are for, so far as they are concerned. Strangers are expected to stand in the aisles near the door, and wait until the sexton can show them to seats. A certain fashionable sexton is said to have derived quite a snug income from the "tips" bestowed upon him by visitors wishing to obtain eligible seats. A good story is told of a certain high- toned church. A gentleman had been standing in the main aisle during the greater part of the service, vainly waiting for the sexton to show him to a seat. At last, finding the process tiresome, he leaned over, and, in a whisper, asked the occupant of a pew in which there were several vacant seats, "What church is this?" "Christ's," was the whispered reply. "Is He at home, c 2 S « § 3 5 © S ■s 13 o 0) ~- JO fc- 'P * e3 J3 a 2 a s 9 9 JZ c3 O P W) =3 St - 'P e3 O P R ft 03

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