Columbia (Bnittftsitp 
 
 mtfjeCtipofJtogark 
 
 THE LIBRARIES 
 
TOURIST IN EUROPE. 
 
*** Just published in a neat pocket volume, 
 A Companion to the Tourist in Europe: containing An Intro- 
 duction to French Pronunciation, a copious Vocabulaiy; a Selection 
 of Phrases; Models of Epistolary Correspondence; A Series of Con- 
 versations, on a Tour to Pans by four different routes, through Prance, 
 Holland, Germany, and Switzerland— with a Description of the Public 
 Buildings, Institutions, Curiositie?, Manners, and Amusements of the 
 French Capital. -Designed as a Guide to the Traveller, and. an 
 attractive Class Book for the student. 
 
 By Gabriel Surrenne, F. A. S. E., 
 French Master to the Scottish Military and Naval Academy, Edin- 
 burgh. From the fourth Edinburgh edition, revised and enlarged. 
 New- York: Wiley & Putnaui. 
 
THE 
 
 TOURIST IN EUROPE 
 
 A CONCISE SUMMARY 
 
 I 
 
 VARIOUS ROUTES, OBJECTS OF INTEREST, &c. 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN, FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, 
 GERMANY, BELGIUM, AND HOLLAND J 
 
 WITH HINTS ON TIME, EXPENSES, HOTELS, CONVEYANCES, 
 PASSPORTS, COINS, &C. 
 
 MEMORANDA 
 
 DURING A TOUR OF EIGHT MONTHS IN GREAT BRITAIN 
 AND ON THE CONTINENT, IN 1836. 
 
 By the AuthW of ' An Introduction and Index to General History .' 
 
 NEW. YORK: 
 
 WILEY & PUTNAM 
 
 161 Broadway. 
 1338. 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by 
 Geo. P. Putnam, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the 
 Southern District of New-York. 
 
 nm «>*>,?. 3.^' ^ 
 
 J. F. Trow, Printer, 36 Ann-street. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This little volume, while it may not, perhaps, be altogether 
 unattractive to the general reader, is intended to be practically 
 useful to Americans visiting Europe ; and especially those who are 
 planning a tour with reference to economy, either in time or money. 
 
 In the ' Notes for the Way,' brief suggestions are given 
 respecting the principal routes, the places and things most wor- 
 thy of notice, and the best detailed descriptions thereof. The aim 
 is to present a ' bird's-eye view' of what is before one in the Euro- 
 pean tour; showing how much may be done and seen in a limited 
 time, and at what expense ; and this last consideration is some- 
 times worth mentioning, however 'calculating' and unromantic it 
 may seem to the young and fair, who are looking forward with 
 buoyant hopes and bright imaginings, to the long-dreamed of 
 attractions of the ' Old World.' Yet our ' calculations' will not, 
 we hope, prevent their dreams from being realized ; on the con- 
 trary, we think the needful cost will be found even less than is 
 usually anticipated : and ' to those who are accustomed to consider 
 the beauties of the Sea Cybele and Imperial Rome as things of 
 poetical hue, not food for common eyes and minds, we would say, 
 with more than most travellers' veracity, that with scarcely a 
 greater sum than is often wasted in unsatisfactory pleasures, they 
 may glide in a gondola on the moonlit waves of I he Adriatic, to 
 gaze at the splendor of St. Mark ; or tread the classic soils of the 
 lava-crushed cities of Vesuvius ; or lastly, though not least in 
 the pride of man's history, they may glow with mingled rapture 
 and awe beneath Buonarotti's dome in the mightiest of existing 
 temples.' 
 
 A little English work, called the ' Continental Traveller,' as 
 the basis of this ' Outline,' has been incorporated with notes made 
 during recent personal observation at the places mentioned. 
 
 The. volume also comprises some brief 'Memoranda' from 
 
 1(18233 
 
6 Preface. 
 
 unstudied letters to familiar friends, during a visit to Europe in 
 1836.* 
 
 Without presuming to intrude a homily on manners, I may be 
 pardoned, perhaps, for one or two hints to my young countrymen, 
 touching their general deportment abroad, viz. 
 
 If you would win confidence and respect in good society, espe- 
 cially in England, preserve your republican simplicity of charac- 
 ter — be straight-forward and unassuming in your manner, and 
 honest, free, and at the same time unobtrusive in the expression 
 of your opinions. If you wish to make yourself ridiculous, the 
 best course is to-cringe to rank and wealth ; affect mysterious im- 
 portance and reserve ; and slander, either in words or practice, 
 your own country and her institutions. Do not deem these hints 
 intrusive; they are certainly well-meant. I have seen many 
 instances, and read of more, in which prejudice and disgust have 
 been excited against the whole American people, by this sort of 
 conduct on the part of their representatives. Such consequential 
 airs, if they ever do introduce you to high life, will only, sooner 
 or later, bring you into contempt. 
 
 An American, who conducts himself as a patriotic and gen- 
 tlemanly American should do, has no reason to be ashamed of his 
 name or nation. He belongs to Nature's nobility — and to a 
 country unequalled in extent, beauty, and natural advantages, by 
 any on earth: and he may, with reason, be proud of it. On the 
 other hand, avoid the too frequent practice of continually refer- 
 ring to it by invidious comparisons, or lofty boasts. " A word to 
 the wise." 
 
 I would also suggest that the voyager should take with him 
 some work on the statistics and resources of the United States; 
 for there is yet a surprising want of correct information on these 
 points, among even the intelligent and literary abroad. The 
 'American Almanac' contains much valuable and interesting 
 matter of this kind in a portable form. 
 
 • Some of ihese have appeared in ' the Knickerbocker.' 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. OUTLINE OF A TOUR and NOTES FOR THE WAY. 
 
 Pnee. 
 
 General Hints 9 
 
 England and Scotland 11 
 
 The Continent— Preliminary 22 
 
 Routes from London to Paris 24 
 
 Paris. 25 
 
 Switzerland 26 
 
 Italy 33 
 
 Germany 49 
 
 Holland and Belgium •• 52 
 
 Appendix— 1. Tables of Expenses 61 
 
 2. " Coins 67 
 
 3. List of Travels and Guide-Books 68 
 
 4. Tour for Health 71 
 
 PART II. MEMORANDA IN EUROPE IN 1836. 
 
 P-?e. 
 
 I. The Voyage— Liverpool 73 
 
 II. Birmingham— Warwick— Kenil worth— Stratford-on-Avon 81 
 
 III. London. 88 
 
 IV. London, continued 95 
 
 V. London, continued 100 
 
 VI. Scotland (via York) Ill 
 
 VII. Scotland, continued— Edinburgh 122 
 
 VIH. Tour to the Highlands 132 
 
 IX. " " 139 
 
 X. " " 147 
 
 XL London revisited— House of Lords— Windsor— Oxford, etc. 153 
 
 XII. London, continued— Literature, etc. 166 
 
8 Contents. 
 
 XIII. Journey to Paris, via. Boulogne 176 
 
 XIV. Paris, continued — Versailles, etc. ■ 187 
 
 XV. Switzerland, via Lyons— Geneva— Lake Leman 202 
 
 XVI. Switzerland, continued— Chamouni — Mt. Blanc — Mer de 
 
 Glace— St. Bernard, etc. 211 
 
 XVII. Switzerland, contin'd— Lausanne — Berne— Swiss Lakes 221 
 
 XV1I1. Switzerland, cont'd— Luzerne— The Rhigi— Zurich, etc. 230 
 
 XIX. Germany— The Upper Rhine— Frankfort— Leipsic, etc.- 239 
 
 XX. Germany — The Lower Rhine — Mayence— Coblentz 251 
 
 XXI. Prussia and Belgium— Cologne— Aix-la-Chapelle— Liege 
 — Namur — Waterloo— Brussels— Antwerp — Ghent — 
 
 Bruges — Ostend ♦ •••• •• 261 
 
 XXIJ. Valedictory. 292 
 
 Page 9. The outward passage in the New-York packets is $140, 
 including wines and stores, whether you use them or not. 
 Page 164. In the note— for five views, read/ine views. 
 Page 267. The ' heading' should be ' Q,uentin Durward' Scenes. 
 
OUTLINE OF A TOUR. 
 
 GENERAL HINTS. 
 
 A Passport is necessary for the continent, but not for 
 Great Britain. If you go first to London, it can be 
 obtained of the American minister there; otherwise, write 
 to the Secretary of State at Washington, and you will 
 receive it through the Collector of the Port. 
 
 Funds. A ( letter of credit'* on the Barings or some 
 good house in London is preferable to bills of exchange. 
 You present the letter on your arrival, and draw from timo 
 to time for £100 or more as you may require. For the 
 continent, bills or letters on Welles & Co, Amer. bankers 
 Paris ; or if you go first to London, buy there Herries & 
 Co's bills of exchange payable at all the principal places 
 on the continent in sums to suit, in the currency of each 
 place, and without commission. They give you a general 
 order, endorsed with your own signature, on their one 
 hundred and fifty European correspondents ; and you fill 
 up the blanks on presenting them ; so that they are both 
 safe and convenient. 
 
 The Voyage. Your choice is from the London, Liver- 
 pool or Havre Packets. The Liverpool are generally 
 preferred, both for superior accommodations and short 
 passages; and especially if a visit to Ireland and Scotland, 
 or a tour through England is intended. If you take the 
 London line, you are landed at Portsmouth, and have a 
 rather dull ride of seventy miles to the metropolis. Even 
 if your chief object is the continental tour, the Liverpool 
 route is scarcely less expeditious than that by Havre. 
 
 The price of passage in either line is $130. Retur- 
 ning, (the passage being longer) it is £35 or $175. 
 
 The beil mo Iboie of Prime, Ward i King, New-York. 
 
10 General Hints. 
 
 Take a pilot coat and a good stock of linens, for the 
 voyage, but you can replenish your wardrobe fifty per 
 cent cheaper in London than in New- York. 
 
 Travelling in Great Britain. The attention, civi- 
 lity, and sometimes servility of the servants you will first 
 remark ; and secondly, you will see the reason thereof in 
 the universal custom of certain fees to each one who has 
 ministered to your comfort. All 'gentlemen' are expec- 
 ted to pay in addition to their regular bills, 3d. per meal to 
 the waiter at the hotel, 6d. per day to the chambermaid, 
 and 6d. per day to the ' boots' and porter ; Is. each to 
 coachman and guard, (if there be one) for every thirty 
 miles or thereabout, and Is. to cicerones at ' show-places.' 
 More than the above is unnecessary; less, will not pass. 
 
 Take no more luggage with you in excursions &<c, than 
 is indispensable, as they charge for all over 30 lbs ; better 
 send it on to London, or your head quarters. 
 
 Let nothing appear on your luggage to indicate that 
 you are an American or a stranger, lest the understrappers 
 obey Scripture ' by taking you in.' A little authority and 
 decision, and a sort of ' knowing look' will sometimes serve 
 you advantageously. 
 
 Stage Fares &c, are always paid on 'booking your 
 name.' English public coaches are generally fitted for 
 four inside and eleven outside seats, the latter being half- 
 price, or about equal to stage fares in the U. S. — In good 
 weather, you will of course prefer the outside both for 
 pleasure and economy. Hackney fares : for cabs, pay Is. 
 per mile, or 2s. per hour: for coaches ditto for each per- 
 son. The lawful fare is less. 
 
 For list of Guide Books, etc., see Appendix. They can 
 be obtained best in London, at 421 Strand. 
 
NOTES FOR THE WAY, 
 
 ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 LIVERPOOL. Hotels : « The Adelphi' is considered ■ No. I,' 
 but you may be equally comfortable at • the 
 Waterloo', * Star and Garter', etc. 
 Town Hall. After ' passing' your luggage at the Custom 
 Exchange. House, and paying duty on such • parcels* 
 Cemetery, as your ' friends' have entrusted to. your 
 Docks, care, you may easily see Liverpool and its 
 lions in a couple of days or less. 
 [See Leigh's road-books of England, Ireland, etc.] 
 [If you intend to visit Ireland, a steamboat goes 
 daily from Liverpool to Dublin. A short tour may be 
 made thence to Belfast, or to the Giant's Causeway, and if 
 Scotland is an object, before proceeding to London, cross 
 from Belfast to Glasgow : (See Tour in Scotland,) 
 
 — or — 
 you may go to Scotland via the northern counties, the 
 lakes of Cumberland, &c. Take the Carlisle coach, stop- 
 ping as your leisure permits. If you wish to make an ex 
 cursioD to Derbyshire, Ncicstead Abbey, ccc. ; return, and 
 take the following route to the metropolis. (* Eaton Hall,* 
 the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Westminster, 16 
 miles from Liverpool, is worth visiting if you have time.) 
 You can go through, direct to London, in 24 hours; 
 or, by varying your course a little, several interesting 
 
12 
 
 Notes for the Way : England. 
 
 places may be visited, with but little more delay or ex- 
 pense : as follows. 
 Manchester. 
 
 Birmingham. 
 
 Town Hall, 
 
 Market, 
 
 Factories. 
 
 Warwick, 
 
 Castle. 
 Guy's Cliff*. 
 
 Kenilworth. 
 
 Stratford. 
 
 Shakspeare. 
 
 Woodstock. 
 
 Oxford. 
 
 Blenheim. 
 
 Bodleian 
 
 and 
 Radcliffe 
 Libraries. 
 
 by railway at 6 or 7 a. m. Time to see 
 cotton factories, &c, and proceed same day 
 by coach to 
 
 Hotels : ' Hen and Chickens' * Swan with 
 two Necks' and * The Albion ;' all good. 
 One day sufficient here. To 
 by morning- coach. Hotel : ' Black Swan.' 
 Time to see the finest existing specimen of 
 the old English baronial castle, hire a gig 
 for an excursion to the interesting Ruins 
 of Kenilworth (say 4 miles) and return to 
 take the p. m. coach for Stratford-on-Avon, 
 all the same day. (The fashionable min- 
 eral springs of Leamington are a few miles 
 from Warwick.) 
 
 Arrive at 6, p> m. and lodge at the ' Shaks- 
 peare.' Facetious host ; relics in his gar- 
 den. Birthplace of Shakspeare ; his tomb 
 in the church. 
 
 Coach for Oxford at 9 or 10, A. M. pass- 
 ing through the antique town of Wood- 
 stock, noted for gloves and ■ sweet Alice 
 Lee ;' and near the splendid palace and 
 park of Blenheim, the nation's gift to the 
 'great' duke of Marlborough. 
 Hotels ; ' the Star' and « the Angel,' both 
 aristocratic and ' dear.' 
 A most interesting and delightful place 
 where you would do well to spend two or 
 three days. Arrange, if possible, to stay 
 here over Sunday to hear the chanting, in 
 
Oxford — London. 
 
 13 
 
 Uaiver. Chapels. 
 
 1 Theatre' for 
 Annivers. 
 
 Clarendon 
 Printing Office. 
 
 Arundelelian 
 .Marbles. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 college chapels, especially Magdalen coll. 
 An introduction to some one connected 
 with the University is desirable, but there 
 are plenty of cicerones, who will escort you 
 wherever the 'public are admitted. The 
 Univ. buildings are stately and venerable 
 specimens of Tudor architecture, and the 
 libraries (among the largest in the world) 
 contain many rare and beautiful specimens 
 of the fine arts. Walks on the banks of 
 the Isis, (the father of the Thames.) Ex- 
 cursion to Cumnor, 4 miles, where lived 
 Leicester's Amy Robsart, (see ' Kenii- 
 worth,') and also to Blenheim. Broad st., 
 where Ridley and Latimer were burnt at 
 the stake, &c. &c. 
 
 Coaches leave for London four or five times 
 a day ; distance 40 miles. You will enter 
 modern Babylon without any general view 
 of its immense extent, riding along Ken- 
 sington gardens, Hyde-park and Oxford st., 
 probably to Regent Circus. 
 Hotels are, of course, innumerable. Among 
 the fashionable and expensive ones of the 
 « West End' are Mivarts, St. James', 
 Brookes', Waterloo, &c. Morley's in a 
 central and public situation (Charing 
 Cross) well known to Americans. ' The 
 Piazza,' Covent Garden ; « Tavistock,' do. 
 The Adelphi, Adams at., Strand, (both cen- 
 tral and quiet ;) FumiyaPs, Holborn ; Lon- 
 don Tavern ; N. and S. Arner. Coffee House 
 in 'the city,' patronized by American cap- 
 tains, and has files of N. Y. papers. Go to 
 
14 
 
 Notes for the Way : London. 
 
 a hotel on your arrival, of course, but if you 
 are to remain any length of time, it is both 
 cheaper and more agreeable to take pri- 
 vate ' lodgings,' which term includes a par- 
 lor and bedroom, with attendance. You 
 order what you please for your meals, and 
 suit yourself in hours, &c. The price of 
 lodgings varies from 18s. to j£5 per week. 
 In the * May season' they are higher than at 
 other times ; but you can be handsomely 
 accommodated for £2 per week, and re- 
 spectably for £1 to £1 10s. All articles 
 ordered are charged at cost, in your bill. 
 There are but very few ' boarding houses,' 
 on our system, in London. 
 You will find good and central lodgings 
 in Norfolk and other streets opening from 
 the Strand to the river; Leicester square ; 
 vicinity of Russell square, Lincoln's Inn 
 fields, &c, &c. 
 
 The London fashionable season commen- 
 ces in May, when the city is crowded with 
 strangers. 
 
 It is scarcely worth while to say to the 
 novice in London, beware of impositions of 
 all sorts. 
 
 These, and other matters in their vicinity, 
 may be seen (superficially) in one day. 
 A written order is necessary for admit- 
 tance to either house of parliament ; it 
 can be had on application by letter to a 
 member. They only give one at a time. 
 The sittings are usually from 4 to 12, p. m. 
 Residences of the nobility, &c, in Pica- 
 
 Charing Cross. 
 
 Whitehall. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Parliament Houses. 
 
 St. James's Park. 
 
 Palaces. 
 
 Waterloo Place. 
 
 St. James's Street. 
 
 Club Houses. 
 
 Hells. 
 
 Pall Mali. 
 
Notes for the Way : London. 
 
 15 
 
 Apsley House, 
 Hyde Park. 
 
 National Gallery. 
 
 Opera, &c. 
 
 Regent Street. 
 
 Colosseum. 
 Regent's Park. 
 
 Zoological Gardens. 
 
 British Museum. 
 
 Bazaar. 
 Law Courts. 
 
 St. Paul's. 
 
 Post Office. 
 Bank, 
 
 Monument. 
 Custom House. 
 
 The Tower. 
 Thames Tunnel. 
 
 dilly ; Cavendish, Grosvenor, Berkeley, 
 Belgrave and St. James' squares— wonder 
 at their plain and smoky exteriors. Gay 
 scene in Hyde Park, on fine p. m. Get a 
 saddle-horse, and go the rounds. 
 Another day's work. The National Gal- 
 lery is just completed in Charing Cross, 
 and contains several specimens of ' Great 
 Masters,' purchased by parliament for the 
 nation.' Collection scarcely equal to the 
 Louvre ! but yet should not be omitted. 
 Well worth visiting. Omit not to go 
 through the tunnel and see the giraffes, 
 &c. You must get a ticket from a member. 
 —Third Day— 
 
 Freely open to the public, except in Au- 
 gust. 
 
 Oxford St. 
 
 Guildhall, Westminster, Bow St., &c. 
 — Fourth Day — 
 
 Ascend to the outside galleries — but the 
 panorama in the Colosseum is better. 
 A noble edifice — like St. Paul's, somewhat 
 the worse for smoke. 
 
 You can go through most of it without cer- 
 emony. 
 
 Commemorative of the 'great fire.' 
 Near Billingsgate fish-market, on the 
 banks of the Thames. 
 Wortli a visit, however vulgar Mr. Cooper 
 may deem it. 
 
 Go in an omnibus from Fleet St. or in 
 a boat, as you please. 
 
16 
 
 Notes for the Way : London, etc. 
 
 Royal Academy. 
 Gall, of Paintings. 
 Adelaide Gallery. 
 
 Misc. Exhib. and 
 Amusements. 
 
 Excursions to 
 
 Greenwich aad 
 
 Woolwich 
 
 7 miles. 
 
 To Richmond. &c. 
 
 Hampton Court. 
 
 Windsor. 
 
 Brighton 
 Bath 
 
 —Fifth Day- 
 lii National Gallery. Exhibition open 
 from May to July. 
 
 ' Soc. of Water Colors,' of ■ British Art- 
 ists, ' open from May to July. 
 Of ' Practical Science ;' containing many 
 curious and interesting articles, with expe- 
 riments, &c. 
 
 Occasional — probably enough to occupy 
 you several days, especially if in May or 
 June. 
 
 By steamboat or railway. The park, ob- 
 servatory, hospital. Royal Military Acad, 
 at Woolwich. 
 
 Seven miles, by coach. View from Rich- 
 mond Hill. Pope's Villa at Twickenham. 
 Twelve miles. Palace, founded by Wol- 
 sey. Collection of paintings, by Sir Peter 
 Lely, &c. Cartoons of Raphael. Bushy 
 Park, labyrinth, gardens. 
 (Twenty-six miles,) should not on any ac- 
 count be omitted. The castle is unri- 
 valled ; views from the terraces ; the 
 parks ; Hearne's oak ; grand avenue ; 
 Virginia water, &c. ; Eton College. St. 
 George's Chapel, 
 if the court is there. 
 &c., &c. 
 
 Journey to Scotland. 
 (See ♦ Scottish Tourist,' Leigh 1 s Road Boole, etc.) 
 
 Choice of routes. — 1st : through by land, 
 to Edinburgh, (400 miles) stopping at 
 
Journey to Scotland. 
 
 17 
 
 Cambridge, York, and Newcastle ; 2d : by 
 steamboat, (cheap but horrible,) to Hull, 
 and thence by land, via York, &c. ; 3d : by 
 steam ship direct to Edinburgh — a sail of 
 42 hours — good vessels — fare £3. Either 
 in going or returning you should at least 
 visit York and its Cathedral. 
 If by land, you pass through 
 Edmonton & Ware See the sign of John Gilpin. 
 
 Cambridge. The seat of the second great University. 
 
 L EED 3. Noted for its woolen manufactures. Stop 
 
 here if you have time, and make an excur- 
 sion to the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, etc. 
 
 York. Lodge here. Hotel : The Black Swan ; 
 
 the coach house. 
 Cathedral. Noble specimen of Gothic architecture. 
 
 Great east window ; choir, &c, (destroyed 
 by fire in 1829,) recently restored in the 
 original style : immense organ ; chanting 
 every p. if. at 4. — Remains of Roman 
 walls, barriers, &c. 
 
 [You can proceed from York, by the coast 
 route, via Alnwick Castle, Berwick, Pres- 
 ton Pans, <SfC. ; but if you wish to take 
 Abbotsford, Melrose, in your course,* book 
 yourself for Newcastle, (one day's ride,) 
 passing the picturesque town of 
 Durham. Observe the Cathedral, Castle, &c. This 
 is one of the most wealthy bishoprics in the 
 kingdom. 
 The place of coals. Hotel : • The Turf.' 
 
 Castle. 
 Antiquities. 
 
 Newcastle 
 upon Tyne. 
 
 ♦ These plaoea cun easily be visiled 
 the first ruir.e. 
 
 excursion ol oue day fioin Edinburgh, If you cliOOM 
 
18 
 
 Notes for the Way : Scotland. 
 
 Lodge here, and take the coach next morn- 
 ing over the Cheviot hills, via 
 (See the Abbey) to 
 
 « George Inn.' Ascend the Eildon Hills. 
 The Abbey by moonlight if you are ortho- 
 dox and romantic. The host will furnish 
 you with a gig or carryall to go to Abbotts- 
 ford and Dryburgh, each about three miles 
 in opposite directions. You will lodge at 
 Melrose two nights, and leave next morn- 
 ing for the capital. 
 Splendid view in approaching 
 Hotels : ' Royal,' ' London,' ■ Caledonia,' 
 &c. 
 
 Menzie's, Waterloo Place — good, and mod- 
 erate charges. 
 
 Four or five days at least, should be spent 
 in this picturesque and interesting city. 
 The views from the principal eminences 
 are among the finest in the world. Mon- 
 uments on Calton hill, &c, to Hume, 
 Robertson, Playfair, Burns and Nelson 
 etc. Ascend the latter. Public buildings, 
 &c, well worthy of ' Modern Athens.' 
 Remarkable neatness, elegance and regu- 
 larity of the streets and squares of the 
 New Town. Walk out to St. Leonard's 
 hill, Arthur's seat, St. Anthony's Chapel : 
 John Knox's house, and the window from 
 which he preached in the Canongate. 
 See « Fortunes of Nigel.' 
 ' Heart of Midlothian,' (The Tolbooth is 
 destroyed.) 
 
 Jedburgh, 
 
 Melrose. 
 
 Abbey. 
 Abbottsford. 
 Dryburgh. 
 ;. k Newark Castle. 
 
 EDINBURGH. 
 
 Castle. 
 
 Parliament House. 
 
 Advocates 1 Library. 
 
 Tron Church. 
 
 University. 
 
 Canongate. 
 
 Holyrood Palace 
 
 and Chapel. 
 
 Arthur's Seat. 
 
 Calton Hill. 
 
 ^Princes' Street. 
 
 Botanic Garden. 
 
 k Royal Institute. 
 
 Heriot's Hospital. 
 Grassmarket, &c. 
 
Tour to the Highlands. 
 
 19 
 
 Excursions to Beautiful seats on the banks of the Esk — 
 near where Scott lived when first married 
 
 Roslyn, 
 
 Hawthornden, 
 
 etc. 
 
 (Lasswade) : may all be seen in one day. 
 
 Queensferry and 
 Kinross. 
 
 Lochleven. 
 
 Dundee and 
 
 Dunkeld. 
 
 Tour to the Highlands. 
 
 Most of the interesting scenery of Scot - 
 land may be visited in about a week by 
 making the following circular tour which 
 you can reverse if you please, from and 
 back to Edinburgh. [If pressed for time, 
 go direct to Stirling and Loch Katrine, 
 and return by Glasgow.] 
 Take the Perth coach at 7 a. m. via. 
 where you will stop to visit the ruins of 
 the castle of 
 and proceed same day to 
 Hotel : « The Star.' A handsome town ; 
 Roman and 'Waverley' reminiscences: fair 
 maids, &c. A steamboat goes often to 
 Dundee, the large and flourishing port on 
 the Frith of Tay — an excursion of 12 hours. 
 Walk out to the elegant modern palace of 
 Scone two miles from Perth, where the Scottish 
 Kings used to be crowned. 
 Presuming you are not going farther north 
 (to Montrose, Aberdeen, Inverness, or 
 StafTa,) you can ride out to Dunkeld, a 
 pretty little village, beautifully situated 
 among the hills* The Abbey, Ossian's 
 Hall, Duke of Athol's parks, &c., Birnam 
 Wood, (vide Macbeth,') on the Perth road. 
 Return to Perth and thence to 
 
20 
 
 Notes for the Way : Scotland. 
 
 Stirling. A dull ride ; pass the Abbey of Dumblane, 
 
 Sheriff -muir, &c. 
 Castle. Time to see the Castle, and the fine pros- 
 pects therefrom, the battlefield of Ban- 
 nocliburn, &c. ; and take the p. m. coach, 
 passing Doune Castle, to 
 A rude little village where you lodge. 
 [Walk out to ' Bracklinn bridge.'] From 
 this place you must hire a private vehicle 
 of the host, to the inn of Ardchinchrochan 
 at Loch Achray, passing Loch Vennachar, 
 &c A charming spot. Dine on fresh 
 salmon and trout, and walk out to the love- 
 ly Loch Katrine. Next morning the host- 
 ess will furnish you with a boat and rowers 
 to cross Loch Katrine : go through the 
 pass to Inversnaid on Loch Lomond, where 
 the Glasgow steamer will call for you, and 
 take you up the loch to Rob Roy's cave, 
 (the Clachan of Aberfoil is not far off,) 
 and unless you wish to ascend Ben Lom- 
 Tarbet. ona "> land you at Tarbet, where you will 
 hire a car, and go through the pass of Glen- 
 coe, round the head of Loch Long, to Loch 
 Fine, and there hire a row boat to Invera- 
 ry, a sweet little place to spend a day. 
 
 nvebaev. Inverary Castle and parks, (Duke of Ar- 
 
 gyle). Here again take the steamboat, 
 passing the isles of Bute and Arran, Dum- 
 barton Castle, Greenock, &c, up the Clyde 
 to 
 
 Glasgow. Hotels: 
 
 A large, handsome and thriving city : the 
 modern part substantially built of stone. 
 
 Callender, 
 
 Loch9 
 
 Vennachar, 
 
 Achray, 
 
 Katrine ; 
 
 The Trosachs. 
 
 Loch Lomond. 
 
Glasgow — Linlithgow. 
 
 21 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 University 
 
 Tolbooth 
 
 Exchange 
 
 Quais and Bridges 
 
 Excursions to 
 
 Paisley 
 
 Langside 
 Falls of the Clyde 
 
 Falkibk 
 
 Linlithgow, 
 
 Edinburgh 
 
 of Rob Roy and Baillie Jarvie memory. 
 
 a beautiful Corinthian edifice, 
 of stone. 
 
 the noted manufacturing town about 6 
 miles from Glasgow. 
 
 the last battle-field of the queen of Scots. 
 More interesting to English than Amerl 
 can tourists : i. e. those who have seen 
 their own country. 
 
 In returning to Edinburgh, take the stage 
 to 
 
 passing the ' Wallace' battle-field, and stop 
 at 
 
 to see the ruins of the old palace where 
 the unfortunate Mary Stuart was born. 
 Thence by coach or canal (try the latter if 
 you never have done so) to 
 Forty miles from Glasgow. Return to 
 London by either of the routes before-men- 
 tioned. 
 
NOTES FOR THE CONTINENT. 
 
 Tour through France and Switzerland, to Rome, Naples and 
 Venice, returning by the Tyrol, or the Rhine, Germany and the 
 Netherlands. 
 
 preliminary. 
 
 Conveyances. For particulars apply at Mauduit's office, 
 41 Regent Circus ; at * The Golden Cross,' 
 Charing Cross ; or at the * Cross Keys,' 
 Wood-st., Cheapside ; all corresponding 
 with the 
 
 Messageries Generates, Rue Notre Dame 
 
 des Victoires, Paris. 
 
 Also at 
 
 The * Spread Eagle Office,' Regent Circus, 
 
 corresponding with 
 Lafilte, Calliard <Sf Co., Rue St. Honore. 
 These are the two great lines in which places may be 
 * booked' the whole way to Paris, via Dover and Calais, or Bou- 
 logne, which secures you against delays on landing in France. 
 
 Respecting steam packets to Rotterdam, Hamburgh, Ant- 
 werp, Osteud, Calais, Boulogne, Havre, &c, inquire at the 
 General Steam Navigation Company's Office, 69 Lombard-st. 
 or 58 Hay market, London ; 8 Rue Castiglione, Paris. 
 
 You can if you please go through to Calais or Boulogne in 
 the steamboat for the trifling sum of 5s. sterling. Boulogne is 
 preferable for a stopping-place. The hotels are good ; nume- 
 rous English residents, sea-bathing, &c. Your choice may be 
 made from several other routes, according to circumstances. 
 By Dover and Canterbury (which are worth seeing) across the 
 
Notes for the Continent — Preliminary. 23 
 
 channel : by Brighton, Havre, and the Seine, stopping at Rou- 
 en : steamboat from London to Havre, &c, &c. 
 
 Passport of the American minister, (if you have not ono 
 from the Secretary of State,) to be countersigned at the French 
 office, No. 6 Poland-st., London, and at Paris by the ministers 
 of the states through which you are to pass. 
 
 Finds. Hemes and Co's bills, payable at 150 principal 
 places on the continent. [See p. 9.] Supply yourself with 
 the coins of the states through which you are to pass. 
 
 On landing in France, let the Commissioner of the Hotel 
 attend to ' passing' your luggage, passport, &c, and you will 
 save time and trouble. 
 
 Guide Books. It is desirable to have one of each country 
 through which you arc to pass, as referred to in their proper 
 places. You will find them all at Leigh's, 421 Strand.* The 
 best general ones are 
 
 Brockedoris Road Book from London to Naples : 8vo. London 
 1835. £1 6s. 
 
 This is more particularly tor affluent tourists, who travel by post. 
 
 Handbook for Travellers on the Continent. Lond., Murray 
 1836. Small 8vo. 
 
 . very comprehensive and valuable book, embodying nearly all the useful information in other 
 guides. 
 
 Starke's Directions for Travellers on the Continent. 5th ed. 
 Lond., Murray ; 1837. 8vo. 
 
 Particularly valuable for iis copious details ou Italy. 
 
 Boldoni's Noveau Manuel du Voyageur, &c. English, French 
 
 and Italian. Paris : Galignani. 
 
 De Genlis' Manuel du Voyageur t &c. Ibid. 
 
 Surrenne's New French Manual, an I Travellers Companion, 
 New-York : Wiley & Putnam. 
 
 ♦See lift of ' . 
 
Different Routes from London to Paris. 
 
 By Calais per 
 steam-boat 
 
 Boulogne by do. 
 do. by Dover 
 
 292 
 
 257 
 
 Dieppe by 
 Brighton 
 
 Havre by 
 Brighton 
 
 Havre by 
 Southampton 
 
 Ostend 
 
 251 
 
 301 
 
 315 
 331 
 
 A pleasant day's sail down the Thames 
 across the Channel. Hotels at Calais ; 
 The ' Royal,' (an English house ;) Des- 
 sein's (French) Hotel Bourbon, &c. 
 Ho f els at Boulogne : D'Orleans, (English) 
 d'Angleterre ; du Nord, &c. 
 Pass through Canterbury ; see the Cathe- 
 dral ; Becket's shrine, &c. 
 Hotel at Dover: 'The Ship.' See the 
 Castle, Landing-place of Csesar, Shaks- 
 peare Cliff, &c. 
 
 [Note. By crossing to Boulogne instead of 
 Calais, from Dover, you avoid a dull ride 
 of 30 miles. There are two routes to the 
 capital ; take that by Amiens, and look 
 into the Cathedral.] 
 
 Go the lower road by the Seine to Paris. 
 Rouen Cathedral, St, Ouen. 
 Fine harbor at Havre ; Hotel d'Angleterre 
 Steam-boat to Rouen and Paris. 
 Stop at Southampton ; Netley Abbey 
 Portsmouth ; Isle of Wight. 
 By Dunkirk, Lisle, &c, to Paris, 
 
Paris to Switzerland and Italy, 
 
 FRANCE. Mile 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 The Louvre 
 The Tuileries 
 
 The Palais 
 
 Royal 
 The Luxembourg 
 The Pamheon 
 Notre Dame 
 St. Sulpice. 
 St Roch 
 
 Abbaye St. 
 
 Martin 
 The Piaee 
 Vendume 
 
 Garden of 
 Plants. 
 
 Royal Library 
 
 Champs Klysees 
 
 Arc de I'Etoile 
 
 Bois de Bou- 
 logne 
 
 Ohambre des 
 
 \)C pules 
 
 • (See Reichard's Itinerary of France, Gal. 
 ignanVs or Plantas's Paris. Galignani's 
 Book and Reading Rooms, are No. IS Rue 
 Vivienne, where the American and other 
 papers, list of strangers, &c., may be seen, 
 and other information obtained.) 
 Hotels : Meurice's, in the Rue Rivoli is 
 the most fashionable and expensive ; « Ho- 
 tel de Lille et D'Aibion,' opposite the Pa- 
 lais Royal, a good house frequented by the 
 English ; Hotel du Portugal, Rue du MuiJ ; 
 * Bellevue ;' ' Brighton ;' ' Congres ;' Rue 
 Rivoli* 
 
 Presuming Paris to have been already visi- 
 ted, you will remember seasonably to get 
 your passport vise by the different Ambas- 
 sadors of the countries through which you 
 intend to pass, viz. the Imperial and Sar- 
 dinian Ambassadors, the Minister of the 
 Swiss Cantons, the Pope's Nuncio, and 
 the French Minister for Foreign Affairs 
 and Police. This will probably occupy 
 three days, which time can be agreeably 
 divided between the Cabinet de Lecture 
 the Gallery of the Louvre, and the cx-Mu- 
 see Charles X., th'3 Bibliotheque Royale, 
 Conservatoire des Arts et des Metiers, Jar- 
 din des Plantes and Museum, the Tuileries 
 garden lounge, and the Theatres. 
 If any length of time be devoted to Paris 
 it will be advisable to remove from tho 
 
 ♦ For". lie" [H- .r m , i M'or hold., msc ll.e I'arii Uuule Uookj. Meur.ce'* i* 
 
 douUlew lUe be»l lor iliote who o u uOl .-i e.ik French. 
 
 3* 
 
26 
 
 Notes for the Continent 
 
 Opera Francais MiUs - 
 
 Theatre Fran- 
 cais 
 Vane u's, &c, 
 &c. 
 
 Concerts Musard 
 Hotel de Ville 
 Val de Grace 
 Les Invalidcs 
 Les Gobelins 
 
 Sevres Porce- 
 lain 
 
 St. Cloud 
 Versailles 
 Les Trianons 
 
 By 
 
 Dijon 
 
 to 
 
 Besancon. 
 
 245 
 
 hotel to some appartemens meublts, which 
 may be had for forty francs a month. Al- 
 though there is, in fact, no half price at the 
 Theatres, you can always buy return-checks 
 at the doors for various prices ; so you can 
 also sell your own if you do not wish to 
 stay out, the whole entertainments. Do 
 not drink much iced water lest *****. Go 
 to St. Cloud and Versailles in a coucou — 
 you will see life and save expense. They 
 always ply on the Quai by the Pont Louis 
 XV. But, gentle reader, as Paris is only 
 a link in the chain, let us on.* 
 A place of renown, worth exploring — old 
 Burgundian Capital. 
 
 An ancient fortified town, finely situated. 
 Environs picturesque. It contains Roman 
 antiquities. A Diligence runs from Paris 
 to this place whence it will convey you to 
 Lausanne, Neufchatel, or Geneva. 
 
 (See EbeVs Swiizeiland and Atlas.} 
 An excellent city, finely situated on the 
 Rhine, over which is a bridge 280 feet 
 long. The Cathedral and Town Hall are 
 worthy of notice. The Trois Rois is an 
 excellent Hotel, but generally very full. 
 From this place you cannot continue post- 
 ing, but must hire horses as after men- 
 tioned. 
 
 Situated in a valley, possesses fine warm 
 baths, which are considered very bracing, 
 
 ♦ In proceeding to Switzerland and Italy, you m;.y lake the route named below, or 'hat by 
 war «f Lvous or Geneva, |See -Memoranda,' ] or ( ihe quickest and cheapest) ly Lyons and 
 Marfieilles, and thtnee by steamboat to Genoa and fsaples, returning by the Simploti through 
 Switzerland. 
 
 SWITZER- 
 LAND. 
 
 BALK 
 or 
 
 BASEL 
 
 Cathedral 
 Town Hall 
 
 40 
 
 Baden 
 
 40 
 
Tour in Switzei'lcuid. 
 
 27 
 
 Miles, particularly for females, and are much fre- 
 quented on that account, 
 jg The Bridge, Lake, and Walks will engage 
 your attention. L'Epee is a delightful 
 Hotel close to the Lake, along the banks of 
 which are some beautiful rides and walks. 
 There is always a great conflux of company 
 here in the season, and this Inn is the 
 great resort, but it is certainly not cheap- 
 At this place, as well as at all the princi- 
 pal towns in the country, you can hire a 
 good sociable, which closes when neces- 
 sary, and will carry four persons and a 
 servant on the box, for which you pay 
 about eighteen francs a day, and three for 
 the driver. This will travel at the rate of 
 thirty-five miles per day and more but you 
 must pay the same for his return, so that it 
 will be advisable to trace your route so as to 
 enable you to discharge him not far from his 
 home. They generally start early in the 
 morning, and rest three hours in the mid- 
 dle of the day, thus making two long 
 stages. 
 13 A delightful place, with an excellent Inn 
 close to the Lake and Bridge. The drive 
 to this place along the Zurich Sec is truly 
 picturesque, the Lake being studded with 
 towns and villages. This would be a fit 
 place for a repose of a few days. 
 20 Another delightful place, where there is a 
 comfortable and reasonable Inn at the end 
 of the Lake of Wallenstadt. This cxcur- 
 
 ZURICH 
 
 Lake of Zurich 
 
 Hotel de Ville 
 Arsenal 
 
 Public Granary 
 The churches 
 
 The Orphan 
 House 
 
 The Library 
 Caroline College 
 
 Rapperswyl 
 
 Wesen 
 
 Glarus 
 to 
 
28 
 
 JSotesfor the Continent. 
 
 LlNTHAL 
 
 and return 
 
 to WEaEN. 
 
 Wallenstadt. 
 
 Pfeffebs. 
 Coire or Chub 
 
 Via Mala by 
 The Splugen 
 
 Zug. 
 
 Zuger See or 
 Lake of Zug* 
 
 RlGHI KULM 
 
 ,liles - sion may be omitted. if pressed for time: 
 4 Q but it may be made in one day, starting 
 early. It is a fine drive through mountain 
 scenery of great beauty. There is a curi- 
 ous bridge over the Linth. Giarus is a 
 large manufacturing town on the Linth, 
 and a place of pilgrimage. From Wesen 
 you may continue your route up the lake to 
 Wallenstadt. There is no carriage road, 
 but there is a Passage Boat Daily which 
 takes you for 2 fr. Thence you may con- 
 tinue your journey to the Baths and Mon- 
 asteries of PfefTers, which would detain you 
 six hours ; afterwards to Coire, in German 
 Chur, half a league from the Rhine ; 
 thence by the Via Mala, across the new 
 road, over the Splugen to Como. You 
 may post from Coire. The road is excel- 
 lent, through mountain-passes of the utmost 
 sublimity, meriting its Italian cognomen 
 of Via Mala, from the circumventing hor- 
 rors. This is the nearest way into Italy 
 through Switzerland ; but in pursuing the 
 Routu here given for exploring more of 
 Switzerland, you must proceed from We- 
 sen to Zug. 
 40 A curious old town at the head of the Lake. 
 Here you take a boat to the end of the Zu- 
 ger See, as the Lake is called ; and on 
 landing you can hire horses to ascend the 
 Righi Kulm, (see Keller's Panorama,) where 
 you obtain a magnificent view of the great- 
 er part of Switzerland ; descending on the 
 
Tour in Sititzcrland. 
 
 29 
 
 Lake of Lu- 
 
 cern, or Lake 
 of the 4 cantons. 
 Sabnen. 
 
 LUZERN. 
 
 Hotel de Ville. 
 Arsenal. 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Library of Cap- 
 uchins. 
 
 Pfyfler's Plan. 
 someville. 
 
 Thun. 
 
 Interlaken, 
 
 Unterseen. 
 
 Miles - other side by the Lake of Lucerne, or 
 continue your mountain journey to Sar- 
 nen ; or if you are not disposed to ascend 
 the mountain, you may take a boat ; and 
 after walking about a mile, arrive at the 
 25 Lake of Luzern, where you engage another 
 boat which will take you direct to the 
 Town of Luzern ; or if the day is before 
 you, traverse the lake previous to reaching 
 the town. The carriage you take to Zug, 
 (if you have one) must meet you at Luzern ; 
 Hotel de Cygne. 
 
 The scenery on this lake is superb, the 
 bridges are curious, and the town is alto- 
 gether worth seeing : it contains a monu- 
 ment erected to the Swiss who fell in the 
 first French revolution ; and in the library 
 of the Capuchins is the celebrated plan of 
 Switzerland, in high relief, by the late Gen- 
 eral Pfyffer. 
 
 Someville is a retired country place, sur- 
 rounded with luxuriant land, where there 
 is good accommodation. 
 25 The drive to this place is through a fine, 
 fertile and hiJly country. The Lake of 
 Thun is very beautiful, and the Town is a 
 very striking object. From this place 
 commences some of the finest scenery in 
 all Switzerland. 
 
 As its name implies, is situated between 
 the Lakes of Thun and Brienz, near the 
 old romantic town of Untersecn, which is 
 watered by a rapid river running between 
 the two lakes. Besides the Hotel there 
 
 34 
 
30 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Gbindlewald 
 
 and 
 Lauterbrun. 
 
 BERNE. 
 
 The Town 
 House. 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Hospital 
 
 Arsenal 
 
 Freyburg. 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Vevey or Vivi9 
 
 19 
 
 L8 
 
 are several Boarding-Houses, which can- 
 not by law take you for less than seven 
 days. The charge is 5fr. per diem. Hor- 
 ses, donkeys, gigs and boats, are kept for 
 the visitors ; the number of English resid- 
 ing here at a time being very considerable. 
 The Glaciers are magnificent, and you can 
 drive there and back in one day, which I 
 have included in the above distance. In- 
 deed, I know of no place where a few 
 weeks may be spent more agreeably than 
 at Interlaken. There are also excellent 
 Hotels close to the Glaciers, both at Grin- 
 dlevvald and Lauterbrun, where you may 
 revel amidst mountain scenery of the most 
 sublime description, — adding as it were a 
 key-stone to your stock of awe. 
 The very best town in all Switzerland, 
 with houses built on arches. The Hotels 
 are good. The walks round the town 
 afford many fine views, particularly from, 
 the terrace near the cathedra!, command- 
 ing a view of the Aar. The Cathedral is 
 worth visiting, as is also the Hospital. 
 The Arsenal contains the arms of William 
 Tell. 
 
 A very old, romantic town on a high hill 
 on the Saane or Sarine. The side towards 
 Berne is truly extraordinary, being per- 
 pendicular in many parts, and surrounded 
 by the river. The Cathedral and Jesuit's 
 College are worthy of notice. There is a 
 good hotel. 
 Charmingly situated on the Lake of Gen- 
 
Tour in Switzerland. 
 
 31 
 
 Castle op 12 
 
 Chillon 
 and back to 
 Vevey. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 21 
 
 OUCHI. 
 
 Hotel de Ville 
 
 The Hospital 
 
 Notre Dame 
 
 Gibbon's House 
 
 La Maison de 
 Force 
 
 Le Chateau 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 M0H0E9 
 
 eva, the descent into which for several 
 miles affords good views. It is an agree- 
 able place for residence, as provisions are 
 cheap, and there is good society. 
 This ancient fabric is immortalized by 
 Bonnivard, and the British Poet who sang 
 his doom. Approach it poetically or not 
 at all — stone and mortar else have no 
 charm. The drive to it is by the Clarens 
 of Rousseau, through vineyards by the side 
 of the Lake. 
 
 May be taken by steamboat. It is pleas- 
 antly situated at a short distance from the 
 Lake, having a sort of port in Ouchi, a 
 town on the banks. The town is old, the 
 streets steep, yet it contains a number of 
 good houses. The public walks are well 
 laid out and command fine views. Visit 
 the Cathedral. Lausanne was the abode 
 of Gibbon and John Kemble, and is much 
 resorted to by the English in the summer 
 months, and indeed for general residence. 
 There is a very excellent hotel. A steam- 
 boat goes every day to Geneva, as well as 
 to Vevey. There is also a diligence which 
 sets off early every morning for Geneva, 
 and arrives there at eleven. The drive is 
 along the Lake, passing Morges, St. Prex, 
 Rollee, Nyon, Copet, Ferney, and several 
 pleasant villages and chateaux. There is 
 also a diligence which goes three days in 
 the week to Milan. 
 Considerable commerce is carried on here. 
 
32 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Its port, harbor, and warehouses indicate 
 enterprize. 
 
 A pleasant town with valuable baths. 
 A place of great antiquity. 
 The chateau of Necker and Madame de 
 Stael. 
 
 The chateau of Voltaire — out of the car- 
 riage road. 
 
 At the end of the Lake of the same name. 
 The Alps, Mont Blanc, the Jura, frown 
 along the horizon : while the near hills, 
 which rise on either side of the Lake smile 
 with verdure. The ramparts are pleasant 
 walks, commanding fine views. There 
 are several excellent hotels, generally 
 crowded with company ; the 'Bergues,' is 
 one of the largest and best in Europe ; and 
 at a distance of one mile is the Hotel Sech- 
 erons, much frequented by the first fami- 
 lies, consequently not for a travelling bach- 
 elor. Diligences go from Geneva to all 
 parts. Rousseau was born here, as were 
 also Bonnet and Necker. 
 A small village, in a charming valley at 
 the base of Mont Blanc, supported by trav- 
 ellers. There are two comfortable hotels 
 where the company generally meet at table 
 d'hote. Start early on your ascent, and 
 reach Montanvert to see the Glaciers, 
 which is a fatiguing operation ; but, by the 
 assistance of a guide, and if you are not a 
 pedestrian, by a horse, part of the way, it 
 may be well accomplished ; indeed, if you 
 go alone, two guides will be necessary, but 
 
 ROLLE. 
 
 Nyon. 
 
 COPET. 
 
 Ferney. 
 
 GENEVA or 33 
 Genf. 
 
 St. Peter 
 
 The Arsenal 
 
 The Academy 
 
 Ramparts 
 
 The Theatre 
 
 Hotel Secherons 
 
 Chamouni by 
 Salenche, 
 in order to as- 
 cend 
 Mont Blanc. 
 Cascade d'Arpe- 
 
 nas 
 Les Bains St. 
 
 Gervais. 
 Cascade de 
 
 Chede 
 Lac de Chede 
 Le Jardin 
 Le Montanvert 
 Mer de Glace 
 Glacier de Bois 
 
 CO 
 
St. Bernard and the Simplon to Italy. 
 
 33 
 
 Glacier des 
 Bossons 
 Cascade de h 
 
 Barberine 
 Le Pont St. 
 
 Martin 
 
 Cascade de 
 
 Bonnant 
 
 Col de Balme 
 
 over 
 
 Mount St. 
 
 Bernard 
 
 to 
 
 Martign-y 
 
 or 
 Martinach 
 
 40 
 
 each person must have one at 6fr. each, 
 and 3fr. for a horse ; and if ladies are of 
 the party, it may be advisable to have a 
 chaise, a porteur, for which you pay 20fr. 
 A whole day must be devoted to this ex- 
 cursion, which I need not assure you will 
 amply repay fatigue and expense. 
 You have now to cross mountains covered 
 with snow, for which purpose you engage 
 mules and guides from Chamouni. Stop 
 at the Convent at the top of Mount St. 
 Bernard, and there sleep. You then de- 
 scend to Marti nach in the Valais, (Wal- 
 lis,) where you join the great road to Simp- 
 lon from Geneva. You could now get into 
 Italy over the great St. Bernard by Cite 
 d'Aosta and Ivrea to Turin. The Val 
 d'Aosta is surprisingly beautiful. 
 
 [Note. — If you are not to go Italy, see the route from Martigny 
 to the north of Switzerland and Germany in the second part of 
 this wurk, where the Swiss lour is reversed. I 
 
 Sion, (Sitten) 
 
 and 
 
 Sierre, (Siders) 
 
 across the 
 
 Simplon to 
 
 ITALY, 
 
 (See Rei chard's 
 
 Italy) 
 
 by 
 
 Domo D'Ossola. 
 
 The drive through the Valais is very pleas- 
 ing. The road through the valley of the 
 Rhone or Rhodan, which extends to Brieg, 
 being along the banks of that river, 
 which it crosses near Riddes, and again at 
 Sierre, amidst fine mountain-scenery. 
 Sierre or Siders is replete with antiquities. 
 From this place the Simplon may be said 
 to commence. It takes nearly a day to 
 cross it ; and by starting from Sierre very 
 early in the morning, you reach Domo 
 d'Ossola on the Italian side, about five in 
 the afternoon. Or, if you like to remain 
 4 
 
43 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Great G allery ™ i[ss - 
 near Gondo 
 Galerie de 
 Schalbet 
 
 — d'Algaby 
 
 — de Gantliar 
 Galerie d'Yeselle 
 
 — des Glaciers 
 Ponte Alto 
 Pent de St. 
 
 Maurice 
 Dovedro and 
 
 Crevola 
 Defile of Dove- 
 dro 
 Val d'Ossola 
 Pont de Crevola 
 
 Baveno 
 
 on the 
 Lago Maggiore 
 
 borromean 
 Islands. 
 
 Sesto Calende 
 
 Laveno 
 
 and 
 
 Lake of Como 
 
 Lake of Lu- 
 gano. 
 
 Cadenobbia. 
 Lake of Como. 
 
 130 
 
 15 
 
 all night at the village of Simplon, to start 
 afresh towards the beauties of Dovedro and 
 Crevola, the Inn will be found very com- 
 fortable, with the recommendation of being 
 4840 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 offering chamois and a light champaign to 
 solace you in your fatigue. Across this 
 stupendous Pass, full of Nature's wildest 
 looks and her sweetest smiles, you are con- 
 veyed in a char a-banc containing four per- 
 sons, and built so low that you descend 
 when you please. The road into Italy is 
 very sublime, and will be enhanced even 
 by a due portion of, not fear perhaps, but 
 something very like it. A diligence leaves 
 Geneva, as I have before stated, three days 
 in the week, which will engage to take you 
 to Milan, but you must stop short of Milan 
 at Baveno, on the Lago Maggiore, where 
 there is a good Hotel near the Borromean 
 Islands ; having seen which, return to Ba- 
 veno and take the steam-boat, which passes 
 every morning down the Lake from Sesto 
 Calende. 
 
 Go to Laveno, where there is a tolerable 
 Hotel on the right. The Lake presents a 
 fine variety of scenery, and is at the end en- 
 compassed with stupendous mountains. 
 Hire a carriage to Lugano, a pleasant Lake 
 abounding with fish, not far distant, to the 
 extremity of which take a boat, and there 
 hire a carriage to Cadenobbia, a town on 
 the Lake of Como, where there is an excel- 
 lent Hotel, and an intelligent landlord who 
 
Italy: Como— Milan. 
 
 35 
 
 Steam-boat 
 
 Como 
 
 MIL AN, 
 
 in Italian Mila- 
 
 no, 
 
 in German 
 
 Mayland. 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Chiesa di S. \l- 
 
 lessandro 
 
 — s. Maria 
 
 — S. Lorenzo 
 
 — S. Victor 
 
 Villa Pliniana Miles - 
 
 45 
 
 25 
 
 speaks English. This is a most interest- 
 ing- excursion, and brings you about two- 
 thirds down on the Lake. There are some 
 charming chateaux to be seen, containing 
 statues and paintings ; one of which, a little 
 higher up, take a boat and see, ascending 
 a hill which commands the three divisions 
 of the Lake, afterwards returning to the 
 Hotel. The steam-boat stops for passen- 
 gers at tbe Hotel on its way to Como. 
 This is certainly the Queen of Lakes — 
 Nature and Art alike embellish it. Villas 
 and villages sparkle on its banks, amidst 
 verdant uplands and luxuriant gardens. 
 With a mind at ease and body " unwrung," 
 Como might be a paradise. To those 
 doomed to even " the sweet shady side of 
 Pali-Mall, " it is torturingly beautiful, ap- 
 pearing like a thing got up for the occasion 
 " by particular desire," " full of cunny nglye 
 contryved beautyes and choyce devyces." 
 This is a very good town, with an excel- 
 lent Hotel. The walks by the Lake are 
 very pleasant, being surrounded by villas. 
 The Cathedral is ancient and worthy of 
 notice. 
 
 A noble city, and most decidedly the best 
 in Italy. The suburb white marble Cathe- 
 dral, with the tomb of St. Carlo Borromeo, 
 malgre its intrusive Grecian windows, 
 ought to enchant yon, having this advan- 
 tage over an Italian that to you, marble is 
 somewhat of a rara avis, — to him, niente. 
 The Circus, the Arch of Napoleon — tho 
 
36 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 — S. Ambrozio 
 La Seal a Thea- 
 tre 
 La Canobiana 
 Gallery 
 Gymnasium 
 The Palace 
 Amphitheatre 
 The Hospital 
 Refectory of Sta. 
 Maria delle 
 Grazie 
 Last Supper 
 Villa Belgioso 
 Marengo Gate 
 
 Scala (the largest theatre in Europe) — the 
 Picture Gallery and Museums, Leonardo 
 da Vinci's Last Supper in the Refectory, 
 together with the drives and walks, will af- 
 ford great amusement. The white of the 
 Austrian uniform often hurts the eyesight. 
 The Hotels are the best in all Italy, and 
 not expensive. There are in all of them 
 Tables d'Hote, at 4 o'clock ; and if you 
 stop any time, they will contract at so 
 much per day. There is no diligence from 
 here to Florence ; but there is a molle-post 
 three times a week, which carries two per- 
 sons at four pence per mile each. 
 
 {Note.) — From Paris to Milan, direct oyer the Simplon, is 
 about 540 miles : but by taking the route through Switzerland, it 
 is double the distance. 
 
 TURIN or 72 
 
 tl Torino 
 through 
 Alexandria and 
 Novi. 
 
 La Superga 
 The Cathedral 
 
 — St. Filipo Neri 
 
 — La Consolata 
 Corpus Domini, 
 
 &c. &c. 
 Palazzo Carignano 
 King's Palace 
 University 
 Teatro di Carignano 
 Grand Theatre 
 The Grand Walk 
 Pavia to 
 
 A drive through a flat but rich and fertile 
 country, leads to Turin, the capital of Pied- 
 mont and of the states of the King of Sar- 
 dinia, The Palace, the Town-House, the 
 Superga, (the burial place of the royal fam- 
 ily,) about five miles distant, must not be 
 omitted. You have also a very extensive 
 view of the mountains of Savoy. The 
 Hotel on the Grande Place is the only good 
 one. Should you deviate in this route and 
 go to Pavia, do not omit seeing the Char- 
 treuse. 
 
Italy : Turin — Genoa — Leghorn. 
 
 37 
 
 GENOA 
 in Italian 
 
 Genova. 
 The Bochetta 
 Palazzo Andrea 
 
 — Durazzu 
 
 — Rosso 
 
 — Doria 
 
 — Ducale 
 
 — Carega 
 The Cathedral 
 Chiesa S. Maria 
 
 — Annunciata 
 
 — S. Ambrogio 
 
 — S. Stefano 
 
 — S. Dominico 
 Promenade of 
 Acqua Verde 
 Bay 
 
 Teatro S. Agostino 
 The Hospital 
 
 — Incurables 
 Albergo dei Po- 
 
 veri 
 
 Spezia 
 
 Miles 
 
 120 
 
 Lucca 
 PISA 
 
 Leaning Tower 
 
 Campo Santo 
 The Arno 
 
 LEGHORN, 
 
 in Italian 
 Livornu. 
 
 This is a fine mountain drive, replete with 
 the richest scenery, the latter part over the 
 new road across the Bochetta. There is a 
 good diligence from Turin to Genoa, stop- 
 ping one night at Alexandria, a town in 
 great decay, but with a tolerable Hotel. 
 The descent into Genoa by the Bochetta is 
 very grand. The Palaces and Churches in 
 Genoa are among the finest in Italy, and 
 abound with choice paintings. The Bay is 
 second only to Naples. The hills are cov- 
 ered with vineyards forming an amphithe- 
 atre round the city. There is a fine The- 
 atre, and the Hotels are upon a grand scale. 
 Take a boat and row about the bay. 
 
 Pursuing your road to the South, you will 
 pass Spezia with its splendid harbor, and 
 the marble quarries of Massa. 
 Lucca, a fine city, with Cathedral and 
 Churches adorned with paintings. Pisa, 
 the remains of a large ancient town, but 
 very dull. The Cathedral, Cemetery, 
 Leaning Tower, Monastery, Botanic Gar- 
 dens, are all curious objects. The Campo 
 Santo will of course be visited. The Arno 
 flows through the town, over which are 
 three bridges. This is considered the best 
 and mildest place for invalids in Italy. 
 House-rent in the winter is high, but pro- 
 visions are cheap. 
 
 Leghorn, about 12 miles from Pisa, is a 
 very large trading sea-port, with a safe 
 harbor. Amongst its population are 20,000 
 
38 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Jews, who inhabit one part of the city. 
 One long street runs through it, but the 
 place is dirty and the houses old, wanting 
 the aristocratic look of the other Italian 
 cities. Industry may thrive here, but the 
 traveller's epicurean vision will seek in 
 vain for the treasures of art, — the badge of 
 Italia. It is resorted to for bathing in the 
 season. The Lazzaretto is worth noticing. 
 You may go from Leghorn to Florence, a 
 fine drive of 70 miles, through villages, 
 (the inhabitants of which are engaged in 
 making straw bonnets,) and thence to 
 Rome, in which case you will not return 
 through Florence, as hereafter proposed, 
 but by the Adriatic and Bologna. 
 
 Lazzaretto 
 Leghobn to 
 Florence 
 and 
 Rome 
 returning by 
 The Adriatic 
 and 
 Bologna. 
 
 Marseilles to 
 Genoa, 
 Leghorn, 
 Civita Vec- 
 
 CHIA, 
 
 Naples. 
 
 Note. — Those "who go to Rome through the South of France 
 ■will find a steam-boat ihat leaves Marseilles three times a week, 
 and proceeds to Naples, landing passengers at Genoa, Leghorn, 
 and Civita Vecchia, and this would save both expense and time, 
 if the sea could be depended on, and there would be nothing lost 
 in point of country, since, by returning from Naples to Florence, 
 you would pass the same route by land. It is calculated that by 
 this plan ten days would be saved in going to Naples — and the 
 voyage, after allowing for stoppages at the several places, cannot 
 in fair weather exceed three days, having no tide to contend with. 
 
 SIENA. 
 
 The Cathedral 
 and Library. 
 Tower of La 
 
 Mangia 
 Tolomei Col- 
 lege 
 Church of the 
 Augustines 
 
 — S. Martino 
 
 — S. Quirino 
 
 There is no regular diligence going from 
 Leghorn to Rome, so that you must go by 
 Vetturino. 
 
 Siena stands high and enjoys the sea-breez- 
 es. It is considered the best air in Italy 
 for a constant residence, being free from 
 malaria, on account of which, and for its 
 cheapness, many English reside there. It 
 is a large old town, with several Churches 
 worthy of notice, particularly the Cathe- 
 dral, which is a superb edifice adorned with 
 fine paintings, especially the frescoes of 
 
Italy : Siena, etc. — Rome. 
 
 39 
 
 — Carmelites 
 Public Palace 
 Museum 
 
 by 
 Aquapendente, 
 
 BOLSENA, 
 VlTERBO, 
 
 to 
 
 ROME. 
 
 160 
 
 Porto del Pop- 
 
 ulo 
 Piazza Navona 
 
 — di Spagna 
 
 — Monte Cav- 
 
 allo 
 
 — Colonna 
 
 — St, Giovanni 
 
 Laterano 
 Arcli of Titus 
 
 — Constantino 
 
 — Severus 
 Temple of Jupi- 
 
 ut Statur, &c 
 
 Raffaello, some curious Mosaic, and busts 
 of all the Popes. 
 
 The country through which you after- 
 wards pass is hilly, and is strewed with old 
 towns, where you will find good accommo- 
 dations, although both the country and in- 
 habitants are very poor, cultivation being 
 much neglected. 
 
 Traveller, thou approachest Rome ! If thou 
 hast a grain of enthusiasm, unbar the flood- 
 gates of thy feelings and thy memory, — 
 whelming thy former littleness of concep- 
 tion in the grandeur that awaits thee. 
 Rome bursts upon thy view ! Imperial — 
 Republican — fallen Rome ; fallen, yet not 
 shorn either of dignity or respect. Where 
 Caesar once trod, there wilt thou tread. 
 Where Cicero once spoke, there wilt thou 
 speak. Where once the masters of the 
 world ruled in magnificent despotism, thou 
 
 wilt now behold but enough behold 
 
 and form thine own conclusions I 
 
 am but a guide, and yet, forsooth, must so- 
 liloquize and lecture. Pardon, gentle read- 
 er, and oi\. 
 
 The Porto del Populo ushers you into 
 Rome through the magnificent Piazza del 
 Populo, where you can choose of three 
 streets, — di Ripetta, del Babbuino, del 
 Corso, which shall have the honor of 
 leading you to further wonders. To at- 
 tempt to describe Rome in this Itinerary 
 would be absurd, and I can only refer you 
 to " Vasi's Rome," which will give you a 
 
40 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Palazzo Ponti- 
 fico 
 
 — Farnese 
 
 — Braschi 
 
 — Giustiniani 
 
 — Corsini 
 
 — Spada 
 
 — Colonna 
 
 — Alfieri 
 
 — Borghese 
 
 — Barberini 
 
 — Rospigliosi 
 
 — Matteo 
 
 — Chigi 
 
 — Bonaparte 
 
 — Me. Citorio 
 
 — di Sciarra 
 
 — Doria 
 
 — di Venizia 
 
 — Senatorio 
 
 — de Conserva- 
 
 tori 
 
 The Forum 
 The Capitol 
 The Pantheon 
 Palace of the 
 Caesars 
 
 St. Peter's 
 Chiesa di St. 
 Giovanni 
 
 — Sa. M. Mag- 
 
 giore 
 
 — St. Paolo 
 
 — St. Pieo. in 
 
 Vincoli 
 
 — Sa. Agnesa 
 
 — Maria degh' 
 
 Angeli 
 
 — S. Ignazio 
 
 — Maria del 
 Popolo, 
 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 complete description of it, and point out 
 the best mode of seeing the lions. You 
 may live here very reasonably. A bed at 
 the Hotel, II Gran Vascello, in the Strada 
 del Condotti, near which the English re- 
 side, costs Is. 6d. per night. Dinner, a 
 la carte, at the great Restaurateur lead- 
 ing out of the same street, 2s. 6c?. including 
 wine. Breakfast at a Coffee-House, lfr. 
 This you will find very comfortable. At 
 dinner you meet excellent society, of 
 every country, as all the artists dine in a 
 great room where there is a table for each 
 country. From them yon will meet with 
 much attention, and derive useful informa- 
 tion. At the Hotel Gran Bretagne, Eng- 
 lish is spoken. Sig. Cicognani, is the 
 American Consul at Rome. 
 Allow no preconceived notions to inter- 
 fere with your enjoyment of St. Peter's ; 
 do not quarrel with it for appearing less 
 than it really is ; for not, in fact, bullying 
 you into awe. Measure yourself against 
 the pillars— which begin where others end 
 — mark where the plinth soars — then say 
 you are disappointed if you dare. Think 
 of Buonarotti rather than Bernini. The 
 Vatican has any number of halls, stair- 
 cases, and windows that any traveller 
 chooses to say. Doctors do not quite 
 agree as to their interminability : there 
 are quite enough to forbid your counting, 
 therefore be satisfied. Enjoy it, for it is 
 
Italy: Rome — Naples. 
 
 41 
 
 Mllts the topmost peak of delight. Raflaello's 
 Loggics and the Sistine Chapel will 
 speak for themselves in the mighty accents 
 of the mightiest genius. Visit the Coli- 
 seum by moonlight, and afterwards say, if 
 you can, that you are no poet. Splendid 
 Palazzi cluster in heaps. Villas circum- 
 vent you with choicest treasures — trium- 
 phal arches and columns rear their stately 
 forms at every step, and splendid churches 
 vie with each other in almost every street. 
 Reader ! I envy thee thy future or present 
 delight. 
 
 Loggie di Raf- 
 
 laello 
 Library 
 Museo Chiara- 
 
 monti 
 
 — Pio Clemen- 
 
 tino 
 Sistine Chapel 
 Last Judgment 
 
 — Sibyls 
 Coliseum 
 Villa Mattel 
 
 — Ludovisi 
 
 — Borghese 
 
 — Madama 
 
 — ramfili 
 
 — Albani 
 
 — Doria 
 
 — Farnese 
 
 'Discordant relics of each fleeting age 
 That gild yet stain Rome's proud yet humble 
 
 page, 
 Where monarchs, heroes, legislators breathed, 
 Time spreads his sable arms with ivy wreath'd. 
 Low lie the masters of the antique world, 
 Low at their feet their haughty eagles hurled ; 
 Yet round their unknown graves some tro- 
 phies lie, 
 That breathe a majesty which ne'er can die." 
 
 NAPLES 
 in Italian 
 Napoli. 
 The Cathedral 
 Chi< -a SS. 
 Aposi 
 
 • Mirtino 
 
 — s. Dominico 
 - i. M. dei 
 
 ( 'arnu I' tani 
 
 — S. Severo 
 
 160 
 
 Awake — Rome seems a dream — yet your 
 dreams can scarcely equal it. 
 As there is no diligence from Rome to 
 Naples, you must go by Vetturino, the 
 charge for which is about-l^/. per mile, which 
 includes bed and supper, finding yourself 
 breakfast. The journey is made in four 
 days and a half. Whenever you engage 
 your place, always stipulate for a front 
 seat ; and by all means reduce your bar- 
 
42 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 — Francesco di 
 
 Paolo 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 Campo Santo 
 Royal Palace 
 Palace of Capo 
 
 di Monte 
 Palazzo Vecchio 
 University 
 Castle of St. 
 
 Elmo 
 
 — del Uovo 
 
 — Nuovo 
 Piazza di Palaz- 
 zo Reale 
 
 Theatre St. 
 Carlo 
 
 — St. Ferdinando 
 The Ridotto 
 Museum 
 
 The Chiaja 
 
 Caserta. 
 
 Pozzuoli. 
 
 Grotto of Pausi- 
 lippo 
 
 Lake Lucrino 
 Sibyl's Baths 
 Lake Avemus 
 Elysian Fields 
 Baia 
 Virgil's Tomb 
 
 Island of Capri 
 Sorrento. 
 
 P.ESTUM, 
 
 Pompeii, 
 Monte Vesuvio, 
 
 23 
 
 gain to writing. The back part of these 
 carriages, in genera), is disagreeable ; and 
 if the drivers tell you there are no others, 
 do not go, id est, say you will not. The 
 entrance into the noble city of Naples from 
 the top of the hill is strikingly beautiful — 
 the magnificent bay spreading before you. 
 The Hotel de Russie is in a good situation. 
 The Museum will repay the traveller's 
 fatigue in perambulating its halls. It 
 abounds in reliques from Herculaneum and 
 Pompeii, as well as paintings and sculp- 
 tures. However, for the principal objects 
 in Naples, I must once more refer you to 
 " Vasi's Naples." The Royal Palace of 
 Caserta, 16 miles from Naples, deserves 
 notice, but of that anon. 
 Engage a carriage at Naples to take you 
 to Pozzuoli and wait your return. See the 
 grotto of Pausilippo and the Cathedral, 
 formerly a pagan temple consecrated to 
 Augustus. Take a boat to Lake Lucrino, 
 the Sibyl's Baths, Lake Avernus, Elysian 
 Fields, Baia, and the Amphitheatre to Poz- 
 zuoli : and on you return, visit Virgil's 
 Tomb — a pilgrimage of taste and senti- 
 ment — which may be performed in one 
 day, and will form a basis for the reflection 
 of years. 
 
 Another day take a boat with four men to 
 the Island of Capri, the den of Tiberius ; 
 thence to Sorrento, where you must dis- 
 miss your boat, and engage a carriage 
 
Italy ; Excursions from Naples. 
 
 43 
 
 Herculanevm, 
 Palazza Favonta 
 back to 
 NAPLES 
 
 130 
 
 Caserta. 
 
 Aqueduct 
 Palace 
 
 CAPUA 
 
 and 
 ROME. 
 
 Mola Dx Gaeta. 
 
 Cicero's Villa 
 
 Bay of Gacta, 
 
 Miles, to go to Paestum, Pompeii, and Mount 
 Vesuvius, Herculaneum, and the Palazza 
 Favorita, to Naples ; the whole of which 
 may be accomplished in four days. 
 If you have already exhausted your curios- 
 ity at Naples, you will not have occasion 
 to remain there longer than to prepare for 
 your return, for which your passport must 
 be vise.* 
 
 In returning from Naples, hire a carriage 
 to go round by Caserta to Capua, a circuit 
 of about eight miles, by which you are 
 enabled to see the greatest Aqueduct in 
 Italy, it being many miles in extent. The 
 magnificent and immense Palace of Caserta 
 is rich in costly marbles, and possesses a 
 beautiful chapel. The gardens and groves 
 are well laid out. 
 
 170 Sleep at Capua, and take up the Vetturino 
 which comes from Rome, (in which you 
 must previously engage your seat.) It 
 arrives about ten in the morning. It gen- 
 erally reaches Mola di Gaeta early, and 
 rests for the night. There is an excellent 
 Hotel close to the sea, and most enchant- 
 ing views. The remains of Cicero's Villa 
 and Garden, the latter filled with oranges, 
 figs, and peaches, in the natural ground, — 
 the hills covered with olives and bay trees, 
 encompassed by a background of stupen- 
 dous mountains, with the Bay of Gaeta be- 
 fore you, to explore which properly you 
 must hire a boat. 
 
 ' Then Is a steam-packet from Nnpls* to Palermo, during the 
 rammer. 
 
44 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Here then you combine, not only truly 
 classic regions, but also the very spot ever 
 to be revered by the true Christian, being 
 the identical route over which the great 
 Apostle Paul was led captive to plead his 
 Master's cause. 
 
 Do not omit, whilst at Rome, to make an 
 excursion to that most classical, most lovely 
 spot — Tivoli, — to view the Cascade and 
 the remains of Roman Villas, and the Tem- 
 ple of Vesta. Frascati must also be seen. 
 In Italy, in fact, what must not be seen 1 
 A fine and most interesting country, being 
 the place where the famous battle of Thra- 
 sy menus was fought by Hannibal. 
 The capital of Tuscany, at the foot of the 
 Appennines, in the lovely Val d'Arno, wa- 
 tered by the river of that name. If Italy be 
 the garden of the world, the Val d'Arno is 
 the garden of Italy. The Etrurian Athens 
 boasts of a pure climate, a pure language, 
 and of being the cradle of Dante and Buon- 
 arotti, amongst the many mighty names 
 that quaffed inspiration in " la bellissima 
 Firenze." The Arno flows through the 
 city, and is crossed by four bridges. The 
 surrounding hills are covered with vine- 
 yards, and olive and bay trees, interspersed 
 with Monasteries and beautiful Villas. 
 The Royal Gallery of Florence is one of 
 the finest collections in the world ; and the 
 Tribune is, perhaps, the richest room of the 
 whole. See the collection of the Palazzo 
 Pitti, notwithstanding its prison exterior. 
 
 36 
 
 Tivoli 
 
 and back, 
 return from Rome 
 
 by 
 Temple of Vesta. 
 Frascati. 
 
 Perugia. 
 
 FLORENCE, 195 
 
 in Italian, 
 Firenze. 
 
 Val d'Arno 
 
 The Baptistery 
 
 Chiesa St. Marco 
 
 — S. Spirito 
 
 — Sa. (Jroce 
 
 — S. Lorenzo 
 
 — Ma. Novello 
 
 — del Carmine 
 The Arno 
 Hospital Sa. Ma. 
 
 Nuova 
 Royal Museum Nat. 
 
 History 
 Academia Florentina 
 Magliabechiana 
 
 Library 
 
 Royal Gallery 
 
 Palazzo Strozzi 
 
 — Riccardi 
 
 — Corsini 
 
 — Gerini 
 
 — Vecchio 
 
 — Pitti, &c. 
 
Italy: Florence — The Appennines — Bologna. 45 
 
 The Duomo 
 
 The Campanile 
 Leaning Pillar 
 The Pergola 
 
 Theatre 
 Cucomero 
 Teairo i\'uovo 
 Boboh Gardens 
 The Prato 
 — Cascine 
 
 Appennines 
 
 Milw - The Duomo is an imposing edifice. " Its 
 magnitude, no less than the costliness of 
 its workmanship and material, strikes for- 
 cibly at first." The Campanile, which 
 stands by the Duomo, is an elegant tower 
 faced with marble. The Park, the various 
 Churches, (particularly the Jesuits,) the 
 Leaning Pillar, the Bologna Gate, the An- 
 atomical Museum, and the one of Natural 
 History. The whole city is replete with 
 splendid buildings. It has, however, at 
 first, a heavy effect. There is a malle- 
 poste from Rome to Florence, but no dili- 
 gence ; it carries two passengers, at an ex- 
 pense of 4<i. per mile. The Hotels of Flo- 
 rence are excellent ; and there is the Hotel 
 Suisse, a large boarding-house, at 25s. per 
 week. Mrs. Clark's, an English boarding 
 house ; and Madame Hombert, who keeps 
 three hotels, all good. 
 As there is no diligence from Florence to 
 Bologna, you must take the vetturino. For 
 about 45 miles of the road you ascend the 
 Appennines, from the summit of which you 
 see the Mediterranean and the Adriatic. 
 There is a Hotel, where you rest at night, 
 and where you are sure of meeting travel- 
 lers passing and repassing. Hence to Bo- 
 logna is a descent. 
 
 Rome to 
 Bologna, 
 by Turn, 
 
 Nakni, 
 Pesaro, 
 Rimini. 
 
 I Note)— Should y>u 1 c dispoied to omit Florence, or Mipp,->- 
 •ing you **>', there i> n m.lle-poste lor 
 
 one passenger, who h poes direct from B -ua, a »iis- 
 
 I I by He- 
 iaro ami ) do may 
 
 ti- uk ii for foal l i 11 ore out 
 
 thre* nighu and two days, h ib an ex. riot, vita 
 
 four horsea, and two dragoons ■« j" re u aJaO a diii- 
 
 • I nearly hy the lame route, lint a little more cir- 
 cuiloui, 'jy Kun. in, ui live day*, resting occasionally at night 
 
46 
 
 Notes for the Continent, 
 
 BOH.: UN A 64 
 
 Academy of Fine 
 Ails 
 
 Anatomical Mu- 
 seum 
 
 Church of the 
 V.r^in 
 
 Tin- Palace 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Chiesa S. Petro- 
 uio 
 
 — Celesitni 
 
 — S. Salvatore 
 
 — S. Domenico 
 
 — S. Ppkoio 
 Palazzo Alclo- 
 
 brandi 
 
 — Zampierri 
 
 — Zaiiiueccari 
 Asnielli 'lower 
 Gansnida — 
 Fekrara 
 VEMZIA 
 
 102 
 
 VRMCR. 
 Palazzo Grim- 
 am 
 
 — Casa Manfe- 
 rmo 
 
 — Barherigo 
 
 — Pisani 
 
 — Pesaro 
 
 — llezzonico 
 The Dogana 
 The Arsenal 
 St. M..rk 
 Piazzi di S. 
 
 Marco 
 Palace of the 
 
 Doge 
 State Prison 
 Fialto 
 
 Bridge of Sishs 
 Chiesa S. Gior- 
 gio Maggiore 
 
 — Frari 
 
 — S. Giov. e 
 Paolo 
 
 At Bologna there are fine Statue and Pic- 
 ture Galleries, and the first Anatomical 
 Museum in all Italy. The Church of the 
 Virgin, with a covered walk to it of three 
 miles. An Opera House. The Hotels 
 are not particularly good. It is a very 
 large city but gloomy, owing in a great 
 measure to the arched pavements. There 
 is no mail or diligence on this road. The 
 country, though rich, is flat and uninterest- 
 ing, except Fi rrara, there being no place 
 worthy of notice. 
 
 Venice — floating Venice — is about five 
 miles from the main land by water, Who- 
 ever has seen Canaletti, has seen Venice 
 even as it is — majestic, yet forlorn. The 
 Doges have passed away, and their realm 
 of enchantment has sunk into a manacled 
 slave. The only horses to be seen are the 
 four of St. Marc. The only trees are in 
 the Royal Garden. The only banners are 
 those of Austria, — its only glory the past. 
 Engage a gondola by the hour, and row 
 round the canals ; for in this land of waters 
 pedestrianism is treason against the soil. 
 The objects most worthy of notice arr>, the 
 Arsenal, (with thoughts of what it was,) 
 the Palace of the Doge, and their portraits, 
 with Faliero's Pall, the most impressive 
 picture of the whole ; the eccentric and 
 splendid Cathedral of St. Marc ; the Pi- 
 azza ; and the Campanile ; the elegant 
 
Italy : Venice — Verona. 
 
 47 
 
 Academy of Arts 
 
 — Francesco 
 de la Vigtia 
 
 — S. Sal va tore 
 
 — II R'dentore 
 
 — of the Jesuits 
 
 — Maria delJa 
 Salute 
 
 — S. Caterina 
 
 — Sea zi 
 
 — S. Zaccaria 
 
 — S. Sebasthno 
 
 — S. G.obhe 
 &C. &C &c. 
 
 Piazza di Brag- 
 
 Iio 
 Hotel 
 Teatro della 
 
 Feuice 
 
 VERONA 
 
 Amphitheatre 
 Cathedral 
 
 Roman Arch 
 
 CO 
 
 Lago di Garda 25 
 
 RiaJto; Bonaparte's Palace, Picture and 
 Statue Gallery. 
 
 In the Academy of Painting are some fine 
 productions of Titian ; his exquisite Pietro 
 Martiro, and Assumption of the Virgin, 
 also the Miracle of St. Marc, by "the 
 sweeping Tintoretto." Many of the pri- 
 vate Palaces have also fine collections. 
 In taking lodgings, recollect the higher 
 you choose apartments the better, for the 
 canals are often offensive. If fashion 
 restrain you from such altitude, recollect 
 that Mich is the fashion in Venice. Be- 
 sides which, the anomaly of a fashionable 
 traveller! The Hotel de la Gran Bretag- 
 na is a very good house, and not expensive. 
 The cypress wine here is excellent, and 
 deserves to be quaffed. Old recollections, 
 and the epicurism of the present, equally 
 prompt to the libation. 
 There is a malle-poste wh'ch goes from 
 Venice io Verona three days in the week, 
 carrying four, which sets off at night, and 
 arrivi s at ten next morning. The Roman 
 Amphitheatre is a splendid monument of 
 antiquity, ranking next to the Coliseum. 
 Tit ■ Cathedral ; the Tomb of the Capu- 
 lets; Juliet's Tomb, two miles off; the 
 Roman Arch, are all worthy of notice. 
 The environs lire beautiful, and are highly 
 interesting to those who chronicle bloody 
 deed*, on account of the battle fought by 
 Bonaparte with the Austrians. 
 The excursion to this beautiful Lake will 
 
48 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 and back to 
 VERONA. 
 
 The Brenner 
 
 Brixen 
 
 THE TYROL. 
 
 Miles - only occupy one day, and will amply repay 
 the traveller. Lakes may be truly called 
 " gems of the purest water, set in the ver- 
 dant earth." They invariably create pleas- 
 ing- emotions, from the facility with which 
 they are received by the eye and the mind. 
 Nothing can be more lovely and sublime 
 than this route. You gradually advance 
 into mountain scenery, by a fine road skir- 
 ting the river Adige, a rapid, winding 
 river. On one side are hills planted with 
 vineyards and shrubs ; on the other, rugged 
 rocks. There is a malle-post, which car- 
 ries four, as far as Brixen, about 90 miles ; 
 whence you must go to Inspruck by vet- 
 turino; but the same malle-poste is con- 
 tinued on to St. Gall and the Lake of Con- 
 stance in Switzerland. 
 The Tyrol properly begins at Brixen, 
 where the scenery assumes a grand char- 
 acter. The Glaciers and the stupendous 
 Mountain Passes, she Tyrolean Costumes 
 and decorated Houses, add to the pictur- 
 esque effect. 
 
 If you can divest yourself of the idea of 
 bravery and happiness on entering the Ty- 
 rol, you are perhaps the first traveller who 
 has done so. There are certain harmless 
 associations which should be considered 
 sacred, and the halo of the Tyrol is so free 
 from the noxious qualities of most irradia- 
 tions of fame, that it behoves you, gentle 
 reader, even though you be an author, to 
 spare the land of Hofer. 
 
The Tyrol: Innspruck. Germany. 
 
 49 
 
 INSPRUCK 215 S '' ns P ruc ^ or Innsbruck is situated in the 
 
 Valley of the Inn 
 
 The Palace 
 
 The University 
 
 Palace of the 
 Government 
 
 Landhaus 
 
 St. James's 
 Cnureh 
 
 Statues an 1 
 Pillars 
 
 GERM A N V. 
 
 SALZUl'Hu 
 
 Hallein 
 
 to 
 Vienna 
 
 Danube 
 
 valley of the Inn, which wafts its glassy 
 stream through the town, amidst mountain 
 scenery of extreme grandeur. It is divi- 
 ded into the old and new towns, the latter 
 containing- some grand edifices, amongst 
 which is the Imp rial Palace, built by Max- 
 imilian, but finished by Maria Theresa, in 
 1768. The Riesensaal or Hall of Giants 
 has a plafond painted by Maulbertsch. 
 The Chapel should also be seen. The 
 University ; the Palace of the Govern- 
 ment ; the Landhaus ; the Triumphal Arch 
 erected in 1765 ; and St. James's Church, 
 will also deserve attention. There are 
 various pillars and statutes which orna- 
 ment the city. The rides and walks are 
 very picturesque. The Golden Sun in 
 the New Town is a good Hotel. 
 
 (See Domeier's or ReichariVs Germany.) 
 
 There is a diligence goes from Inspruck 
 to Salzburg, and continues its route to 
 Vienna, it being the grand route of the 
 Emperor to Milan. Salzburg is highly 
 worth seeing for its picturesque situation. 
 The Palace and Castle are of great an- 
 tiquity. The Salt-Mine at Hallein will 
 repay the trouble of a visit. There is a 
 diligence also goes from Salzburg to Mu- 
 nich. If the traveller should foci disposed, 
 to extend his journey to Vienna, this can 
 be easily accomplished from this place, 
 and return cither by the Danube to Frank- 
 
 5* 
 
50 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 MUNICH 
 
 in German 
 Munchen 
 through 
 
 AlJGaBURG 
 
 Glyptotheca 
 
 Miles. f ort? or ^y Dresden ; and there are com- 
 modious diligences go the whole of both 
 routes. 
 
 The capital of Bavaria, on the Iser, a fine 
 and improving city, and a good place of 
 residence. The Hotels are excellent, 
 with Tables d'Hote frequented by the 
 first company, both ladies and gentlemen. 
 But the great gem of Bavaria is the Glyp- 
 totheca or Museum of Sculpture, built 
 from designs by Leo Klenze, at the ex- 
 pense of Louis I., a monarch whose love 
 and pure taste for the refined arts bid fair 
 to make his small state an object of pil- 
 grimage to all men of xertu. It is in the 
 centre of the north side of the Konigs 
 Platz. There are twelve halls of extreme 
 beauty, being radiant with marbles, mosaic 
 and gold. 
 
 The Palace, with its magnificent saloon, 
 the Gardens, the University, with 1000 
 students, Italian Theatre, the Royal Gal- 
 lery of Pictures, Prince Eugene's Galley, 
 with Canova's Graces, and many other at- 
 tractions : — it is altogether a pleasant, 
 cheerful place, and very reasonable. 
 There is a diligence from Munich to Stutt- 
 gard in one day. This city has the ap- 
 pearance of a large country town, although 
 the capital of Wurtemburg. It is a plea- 
 sant place, with a fine palace and gardens. 
 Is a place worthy of attention, from its im- 
 posing appearance, presenting grand views 
 down the river Neckar. The ruins are 
 
 Palace 
 Royal Gallery 
 
 to 
 Stuttgabd 
 
 Heidelberg 
 
Germany: Munich — Frankfort — The Rhine. 51 
 
 FRANKFORT 
 
 on the 
 Maine 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 The RHINE 
 
 COBLENTZ 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein 
 
 Miles, grand. It has a good hotel. From Stutt- 
 gard there is a diligence either to Frank- 
 fort or Mannheim. 
 
 (See Panorama of Maine.) 
 
 This is a splendid city on the Maine, the 
 seat of the Diet. It is embellished with 
 walks laid out with great variety, which 
 extend round the town in the place of the 
 old fortifications. The Hotels are very 
 large and splendid. Conveyances may be 
 had to any part of Germany. The fair is 
 the second week in August. The Cathe- 
 dral, tht Cabinet of Paintings and Statues, 
 are not of the first class ; but the Reading- 
 Rooms are spacious, and admittance may 
 be easily obtained on application to Messrs. 
 Gogell and Co. the bankers. 
 
 (See Schreiberh Rhine and Panorama.) 
 From Frankfort you leave the Maine, and 
 get into the Rhine, passing Mayence,* 
 down to Cologne by steam-boat, and stop 
 at any of the intermediate places, but 
 above all at Coblentz to view the Castle of 
 Ehrenbreitstein and fortifications, a scene 
 of surprising grandeur, even though Tur- 
 ner and iStanfield have done their best to 
 spoil your first impressions of the Rhine. 
 There is an excellent Hotel on the Grand 
 Parade, where there is a good Table 
 d'H6le, well attended. A diligence goes 
 the whole route, scarcely losing sight of 
 
 • l-'r .-hi Mny.i.if ■ 1..- r .- || u itMIMr 'lir.ot 1,1 London for about 
 61, utucti ilnyi a. day ul ( ulogm ami KuiurJaiii. 
 
52 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Cologne 
 Aix la Chaf? 
 
 Maestricht 
 or by 
 
 Liege 
 
 NAMT7R 
 
 The Meuse 
 Spa 
 
 Namur 
 
 DlNANT 
 
 BRUSSELS 
 
 Waterloo 
 
 Miles, the Rhine the whole way to Cologne. See 
 Cologne Cathedral. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle (in German, Aachen) will 
 afford much pleasure. Charlemagne has 
 spread a halo around it. His ashes lie in 
 the cathedral. The Bettendorf Gallery of 
 Pictures. 
 
 The direct road thence to Brussels is by 
 Maestricht, which is very dull ; but by go- 
 ing twenty miles round by Liege, thence to 
 Namur and Brussels, you have a most de- 
 lightful route, a diligence going the whole 
 way. For forty miles from Liege to Na- 
 mur you go by the side of the Meuse amidst 
 enchanting scenery. In going this route, 
 by deviating a little in your way to Liege, 
 you may also see Spa, but no diligence 
 goes there. 
 
 Namur is finely situated, and on account of 
 its fortifications is well worth seeing. The 
 inns are excellent, and a day may be well 
 employed in going from Namur down the 
 Meuse to Dinant, a distance of seventeen 
 miles, returning by a diligence, thus seeing 
 the finest part of that river. 
 
 (See Romberg's Brussels.) 
 
 Brussels is a beautiful city, the seat of the 
 government. The Palace, the Chambers, 
 the Park, St. Gudule, and other objects, 
 will be found worthy of attention. Hire a 
 carriage (if you have more time than is 
 here indicated) to Waterloo, ' to "ight the 
 battle o'er ao-ain.' Peace follows war 
 
The Rhine — Belgium. 
 
 53 
 
 by 
 
 Lisle 
 
 to 
 
 Dunkirk 
 
 and 
 Calais 
 
 Total 
 
 130 
 3610 
 
 Miles. gr g 0j j t j s a pi]g r i ma gr e f peace. See the 
 Marquess of Anglesea's boot and foot 
 grave. Wonder at the smallness of the 
 field, at the Belgian Lion, if it be still 
 there, at the folly of hard knocks, and re- 
 turn to Brussels. 
 
 From Brussels, either take the diligence, 
 which runs daily between that place and 
 Calais, allowing you to sleep one night at 
 Dunkirk, where the Hotel de Flandres de_ 
 serves attention, being one of the best inns 
 on the continent ; or by Ghent and Bruges 
 to Ostend, thence by sea to Margate or 
 London. 
 
 Bruges is a fine old town, replete with ves- 
 tiges of the grandeur of the Counts of Flan- 
 ders. 
 
 When at Cologne on your return to Brus- 
 sels, you can pursue the Rhine by steam- 
 boat to Nimeguen, thence to Arnheim, Am- 
 sterdam, the Hague, Antwerp, and Brus- 
 sels, which you may do in about ten days. 
 
 Ghent 
 
 Bruges 
 
 Cologne i 
 to 
 
 NlMEGUEN 
 
 Arnheim 
 Amsterdam 
 The Hague 
 Antwerp 
 Brussels 
 
 from 
 
 Cologne 
 
 by 
 
 DUSSELDORF 
 
 Wesel 
 
 NlEMGUEN 
 
 Arnheim 
 
 (See Boyce's Belgian Traveller.) 
 
 Starting from Cologne by steam-boat, you 
 pass Dusseldorf on the right bank of the 
 Rhine, a handsome town, celebrated for the 
 remains of its Gallery of Pictures. The 
 next place of any importance is Wesel, at 
 the confluence of the Lippe and the Rhine. 
 It is a fortress of the first order. Nime- 
 guen is a strong, well-peopled town, with 
 some handsome Churches. From Nime- 
 guen to Arnheim by land, about 22 miles. 
 
54 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Amebongen 
 
 Utrecht 
 to 
 AMSTERDAM 
 
 Museum 
 
 Stadt Huis 
 
 BuYKSLOET 
 
 Bboek 
 
 Arnhcim, the capital of Guelderland, is 
 pleasingly sitnated. Before the Rhine en. 
 ters the Netherlands, it loses much of its 
 characteristic beauty, dwindling into a com- 
 monplace stream. From Arnlieim proceed 
 to Amerongen, thence to Utrecht, one of 
 the most beautiful cities in Holland ; the 
 view from the church spire being one of the 
 most extensive in Europe. Utrecht to 
 Loenern, thence to Amsterdam. The Ve- 
 nice of Holland is built on the confluence of 
 the Amstel and the Y, being the triumph of 
 perseverance and ingenuity in rearing a 
 noble city on a morass which consisted but 
 of a few fisherman's huts, when many cities 
 of Flanders had already attained celebrity. 
 The lover of art will find much in Amster- 
 dam to delight him. The Museum boasts 
 of Rembrandt's huge work, '• The Night 
 Watch, 5 ' and Vanderhelst's equally stupen- 
 dous production of tne " Treaty of Mun- 
 ster." A portrait of Peter the Great is also 
 worthy of remark. The Royal Palace in 
 the Dain is an enormous pile, and the inte- 
 rior is interesting. The Grand Hall is one 
 of the largest in Europe. Three days may 
 be spent well in Amsterdam, although it 
 would trench upon the ten days allowed. 
 The Bible Hotel, Warmoe's Straat, was, 
 when the author was there, a very comfort- 
 able Hotel, the master speaking English. 
 By crossing the Y to Buyksloet, y-.jti hire a 
 carriage to take you to Broek, a beautiful 
 specimen of a Dutch village. Returning 
 
The Netherlands : Amsterdam— Leyden, etc. 55 
 
 Saardam 
 Peter's Hut 
 
 Haarlem 
 
 Church 
 
 Castle of Altenberg 
 
 to Buyksloet, thence to Sardam, where 
 Peter the Great lived and worked. His 
 cabin is still preserved, with a book full of 
 autographs. From Amsterdam proceed by 
 canal to Haarlem, in the treckshuyt. Haar- 
 lem is one of the principal towns in Holland. 
 It is celebrated for its noble defence against 
 the Spaniards, in 1572, when after the most 
 fearful scenes of carnage and famine, it was 
 forced to surrender to its ruthless foes, and 
 fifty-seven of the best hearts in Holland 
 shed their life-blood to purchase a remission 
 of the sanguinary decree of extirpation. 
 St. Bavon, the largest church in Holland, 
 contains the celebrated organ — the largest 
 in Europe. 
 
 Ths treckshuyt will again take you on 
 your journey at a gliding pace of three 
 miles an hour, and land you at Loyden, 
 another celebrated town, built on the old 
 bed of the Rhine. The Rapenburo-, a 
 noble street, with a canal in the centre, 
 was the scene of the frightful explosion in 
 1807. The Town Hal! should be seen : it 
 contains pictures and curiosities ; amongst 
 the former, two to be esteemed by every 
 patriot of any country, representing the 
 Sie^e and Relief of Ley den. The Univer- 
 sity has an enviable renown, if not a bril- 
 liant one. By all moans visit the Castle of 
 Altenberg, and never mind the water. 
 spouts : it is perhaps the only specimen of 
 a mound in Holland, except the embank- 
 ments, which will always astonish and 
 
56 
 
 Notes for the Continent. 
 
 Catwyk 
 
 In Dutch 
 
 S'Gravenhage, 
 
 in French 
 
 La Haye, 
 
 in English 
 
 The Hague. 
 
 Palace in the Wood 
 
 ScHEVELING 
 
 or 
 
 ScHEVENINGEN 
 
 Rotterdam 
 
 often frighten the timid traveller. You 
 will hear a roaring " as of mighty waters," 
 and on ascending the barrier, you will 
 discover, indeed, the wide sea to have been 
 above you, as you were before down on 
 Dutch land. If you would prize human 
 intellect and determination, visit the works 
 of Catwyk, the noble preserver of the noble 
 Rhine from a sandy grave. The plans 
 were pronounced impossible ; but as great 
 nations are ever stimulated to the impossi- 
 bilities of weak ones, the Dutch overcame 
 all that " could not be," and made a mighty 
 thing out of discouragements and dangers. 
 The Canal will take you to the Hague, the 
 seat of Dutch royalty, and a very agree- 
 able town, although at times the canals are 
 even more annoying than dusty streets. 
 The Royal Museum is well worth the tra- 
 veller's attention as it contains a fine col- 
 lection of pictures, amongst others the 
 celebrated Bull, the size of life, by Paul 
 Potter ; and a small picture of Simeon 
 and the Infant Jesus by Rembrandt. 
 Walk through the Wood, a very agree- 
 able promenade to the Palace, where the 
 painted Hall offers specimens of the Dutch 
 and Flemish historic painters. Take a 
 morning trip to Scheveningen, about two 
 miles distant, a village on the sea-shore, 
 inhabited by fishermen, remarkable as the 
 spot where William I. landed in Holland. 
 Do not get tired of canals yet, for you 
 must even go by one to Rotterdam through 
 
Rotterdam — Antwerp. 
 
 57 
 
 Delft 
 
 Rotterdam 
 
 io 
 
 London 
 
 or to 
 
 Antwerpen 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Museum 
 Ruben's House 
 
 BRUSSEL9 
 
 and 
 Ghent 
 
 Delft, where you will have no time to stop. 
 Rotterdam is second onlv to Amsterdam ; 
 it is intersected with canals, and the 
 houses with their gables have a heavy, but 
 picturesque appearance. The English 
 traveller will be struck with the size of 
 the doors, and the uncontinental habit of 
 cleanliness so apparent in Hoiland. 
 For further particulars of Hoi. and and Bel- 
 gium, see Boyce's Belgian Traveller. 
 The traveller can now either embark a: 
 Rotterdam for London, or take the diligence 
 or steam-boat to Antwerp. 
 Antwerp is well worthy a visit. It has 
 many treasures to offer to the artist and 
 man of taste. The Cathedral with its net- 
 work spire, and the pictures of Rubens in 
 the transept, will attract, even after the 
 beauties of Italy. The Museum is als -» 
 very rich in master-pieces. The painter 
 will, of course, visit Rubens' House, manv 
 parts of which are i;, itu q . \s Rem- 
 brandt is the «• mighty magician" of Hol- 
 land, so Rubens is the "dazzling meteor" 
 of Flanders, and their works at every step 
 reward your toil. 
 
 And now, gentle traveller, leaving you to 
 return either by Brussels or Ghent, I hum- 
 bly take my leave. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
I. TABLES OF EXPENSES 
 
 I. Of a Travelling Bachelor, in 1836. 
 
 ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 L. s. d. Miles. Day*. 
 
 Liverpool, hotel, &c 1 6 3 
 
 To Manchester and do 13 0....30.. 1 
 
 To Birmingham and do 1 2 0....E0.. 2 
 
 To Warwick and do 12 0....24.. 1 
 
 Excursion to Kenilworth 11 8.. 
 
 To Stratford-on-Avon, and hotel 14 — 16.. 1 
 
 To Oxford and do 2 6 0.. 50.. 4 
 
 To London 15 0... 40.. 1 
 
 Hotel in London, one day .2 1 
 
 Apartments four weeks 6 6 28 
 
 Living &c, same time 4 — 
 
 18 17 248 42 
 Journey to Scotland. 
 
 L. ». 
 
 Boat to Hull and hotel ... 13 
 
 Coach to York and do 1 
 
 do. to Newcastle and do 1 6 
 
 do. to Melrose and do 1 
 
 Excursion to Abbottsford and Dryburgh '.1 
 
 Coach to Edinburgh ' 
 
 Hotel at Edinburgh, one week 1 15 
 
 Coach to Perth and hotel 15 
 
 Excursions to Dundee 12 
 
 " to Scone and Dunkeld — 16 
 
 Coach to Stirling and hotel 13 
 
 do. to Callender and do 10 
 
 do. to Loch Achray and do 10 
 
 Boat, &c, on Loch Katrine 6 
 
 Boat on Loch Lomond and poney 7 
 
 6* 
 
 d 
 
 Mile*. Day*. 
 
 0.. 
 
 .275.. 2 
 
 0.. 
 
 ..16.. 2 
 
 0.. 
 
 ..70.. 1 
 
 0.. 
 
 .60.. 1 
 
 0.. 
 
 ..12.. i 
 
 0. 
 
 ...26.. 1 
 
 0.. 
 
 .. .. 7 
 
 0. 
 
 ...45.. 1 
 
 0., 
 
 ...44.. 1 
 
 0.. 
 
 ..36.. 1 
 
 0., 
 
 .. 40. .,1 
 
 0. 
 
 ...24 . 1 
 
 0. 
 
 ...13.. 1 
 
 0. 
 
 ... 8.. 1 
 
 u. 
 
 ...15,. 1 
 
62 Appendix. 
 
 L. t. d. Miles. Days. 
 
 Cars and boats from Tarbet to Inveraryand Hotel 
 
 at Inverary 19 30... I 
 
 Boat to Glasgow and hotel 13 0.... ..2 
 
 Coach to Edinburgh via Falkirk and Linlithgow.. 10 0....40...1 
 
 Hotel at Ed. and St. bt. to London 4 0....400..3 
 
 Excursions from London and board 4 0..150..7 
 
 Cost LAO 3 2. ..1657.79 
 
 FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND GERMANY- 
 
 Francs Miles. Dnjrs- 
 
 To Paris, via Dover and Boulogne with hotel, &c. 
 
 at Boulogne 3 days 113.. ..292.. 5 
 
 Hotel at Paris 2 days 14 2 
 
 Apartments at do. 2 weeks 15 14 
 
 Passports, meals, &c 46 
 
 Diligence to Geneva via Lyons 68 370.. 4 
 
 Hotels, etc., on the road 16 — 
 
 Do. and board at Geneva, 5 days 26 5 
 
 Excursions with a party to Chamouni, Martigny, and 
 
 St. Bernard, back to Lausanne, in all 75 210. .7 
 
 Diligence to Beine, and hotel 25 72. .2 
 
 " to Thun and do 8.... 18.. 1 
 
 Boats, mules, guide, &c, to Luzerne 47 90.. 3 
 
 Exc. to Rhigi, and hotels 21.... 10.. 1 
 
 Boat, etc., to Zurich, and do 18 35.. 2 
 
 Diligence to SchafThausen, and hotel 19 30. .3 
 
 " to Off'enbourg, and do 31....120..1 
 
 " to Carlsruhe, and do 18....60..1 
 
 Steamboat to Mayence, and do 22 75.. 1 
 
 Diligence to Frankfort, and do 13 25.. 2 
 
 " Leipsic, and do 81... 212. .4 
 
 " Returning to Mayence 99. . . .237. .4 
 
 Steamboat to Cologne, and hotels 28.... 112.. 2 
 
 Diligence to Aix, and do 13 46.. 1 
 
 Do. to Liege, and do 12 25.. I 
 
 Do. to Namur, and do 10 41..1 
 
 Do. to Brussels, and do 13 40. .3 
 
 Railway to Antwerp, and do 16 24.. 3 
 
 Diligence to Ghent, and hotel 15.... 32. .1 
 
Tables of Expenses. 63 
 
 Francs. Mile Days. 
 
 Diligence to Ostend, and do 14 60. .1 
 
 Steamboat to London 45 150.. 1 
 
 Cabs and sundr.es 40 
 
 Cost 5)981... 2382. 76 
 
 or 8 1 96 - 
 
 In England and Scotland as above, 40/. say $200... 1657. 79 
 
 Add lees, guides, passports and sundries, say 100... 
 
 Passage both ways 325 .. . 7000 65 
 
 Ti months, Total 8821 . . 10939 220 
 
 ■ 
 
 For which you may make the extensive and varied European tour 
 described imperfectly in this work ; i. e., this sum covers all necessary 
 expenses of travelling and living respectably ; but it is of course no 
 difficult matter to spend five times as much, if you choose, especially if 
 you are a lover of wines, which in England are expensive, but on the 
 continent the vins des pays, through which you pass, cost compara- 
 tively Utile. 
 
 Ireland, Wales, excursions to the Northern Counties and lakes of 
 England, and some other places which you may wish to visit, are not 
 included in this table. 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 For those who intend going to Italy, (and who would not, if it 
 were possible?) I annex the following tables of expenses of tourists 
 from London : — 
 
 FIRST TOUK. 
 
 /,. a. d. 
 Expenses from London to Calais by steam, including all 
 
 charges of porterage, and meals on board 2 6 6 
 
 Hot I it Calais, and journey by diligence direct to Paris 3 5 10 
 
 Ten Hays at Paris, lodging at the Portugal U"t< 1, Rjue ilu 
 
 Mail 4 17 6 
 
 Travelling expenses through Lyons (where I slept) to 
 
 Turin, over Mont Cenis 7 g ^ 
 
 Turin one night, and travelling to Genoa by vetturino 2 
 
 Three nig its al < lenoa 1 q q 
 
 Travelling by vetturino to Florence 2 12 
 
64 Appendix. 
 
 L. s. d. 
 
 Florence, two months' residence, including every expense — 11 
 
 Travelling expenses from Florence to Rome, vetturino 2 
 
 Rome, four months, lodging nine crowns a month, every 
 
 additional expense, including a trip to Tivoli 22 
 
 Travelling through Ancona, Bologna, and Ferrara, to 
 
 Venice 4 
 
 Venice, one month 5 
 
 to England, through Vicenza, one night, Verona, 
 
 one night, Milan, two nights, over the Simplon, Lau- 
 sanne, one night, Geneva, two nights, Dijon, through 
 Paris, Havre, Southampton 25 
 
 [Say $460.] L 92 10 4 
 
 SECOND TOUR. 
 
 Route from London to Naples, and return by the Tyrol and 
 the Rhine. 
 
 Travelling 
 Miles. Kxpemes. 
 
 L. s. d. 
 
 Calais, per steam-boat 100 1 16 
 
 Paris, per diligence 180 2 4 2 
 
 Switzerland, Lausanne by Besanc;on, by diligence, 380 3 13 6 
 
 Italy, Milan by diligence, over the Simplon 300' 3 8 
 
 Bologna, through Parma, Reggio, and Placentia, 
 
 by vetturino 150 1 16 
 
 Florence, over the Appennines, by vetturino, sup- 
 per and bed included 80 19 2 
 
 Leghorn and Pisa, and back to Florence; by vet- 
 turino .126 14 4 
 
 Rome, by Sienna, by vetturino, beds and supper 
 
 included 200 2 
 
 Naples, by vetturino, beds and supper included" --lEO 1 7 1 
 
 Pozzuoli and back '12 2 
 
 Shareof boat to Baia 8 5 
 
 Share of carriage to Psestum, and back to Naples- -35 4 2 
 
 Rome, by Caserta, by vetturino, beds and suppers 
 
 included 180 1 10 
 
Tables of Exuenses. 65 
 
 Bjlogn v i, oy Terni, IS arm. ->poieto Pesaro, anu , , . l «• <*• 
 
 tii'- A<:r atie, per mai., witn guaras 280 4 4 
 
 Ferrara, by veiiurino.. . 25 4 2 
 
 Venice, by water per the Hrenta 95 15 10 
 
 Verona, uy Padua, per mail 90 IB 6 
 
 Botzjn, by the Adige, per mail 120 1 1 6 
 
 Inspruck, by veitunno, bed and supper 90 16 6 
 
 Munich, by vctiunno 105 14 7 
 
 Stuttgard, by Augsburgh, per diligence 150 1 14 10 
 
 Mannheim, per diligence, 70 16 7 
 
 Mayence, per diligence 45 9 10 
 
 Cubientz and Cologne, steam-boat in 12 hours lbO 1 4 
 
 Brussels, by Aix-Ia-Cluipelle, per diligence 140 1 7 
 
 Dunkirk, by Lisle, per diligence 112 1 
 
 Caiais 25 5 
 
 London, per coach and boat 1C0 2 12 6 
 
 Total 3503 £38 4 7 
 
 The whole performed in three calendar months, viz. 92 days. 
 
 L. s d. 
 
 Expenses as above, 3S 4 7 
 
 Living, '21. per week 27 
 
 Passports LA lis. 6d ^ 
 
 Seeing places I 16 > .4 1 
 
 Stamps for bills 11 6 J 
 
 [Say 8315.] .L.69 5 7 
 
 THIRD TOUR. 
 
 Route from London, by the Rhine, Switzerland and Italy. 
 Set off on the 8th Aug. 1S29, and returned on the 1st Nov. 
 
 Miles. Miles 
 
 From London to Mayence, by Heidelburgh 50 
 
 Calais, Lisle, Brussels, Liege, Carlsruhe 40 
 
 Aix la-Chapel le, Cologne and Strasburgb 50 
 
 niz, up the Rhine 600 Basle 85 
 
 Wishadin 5 Baden 38 
 
 Frankfort 21 Zflrich 14 
 
66 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Rapperswyl 17 
 
 Wesen 20 
 
 Linstall 22 
 
 Wesen 22 
 
 Zug 45 
 
 Lucern 15 
 
 Sommeville 40 
 
 Thun 25 
 
 Interlaken 18 
 
 Grindlewald and Lauterbrun 
 
 and back 34 
 
 Berne 18 
 
 Friburgh 18 
 
 Vevay 42 
 
 Chillon and back 12 
 
 Lausanne 12 
 
 Geneva 33 
 
 Chambery 60 
 
 Turin (over Mount Cenis) 167 
 
 Milan 120 
 
 Oomo 20 
 
 Lugano , ..45 
 
 Laveno 15 
 
 Lago M aggiore 35 
 
 Bellinzona 10 
 
 Coire 75 
 
 Wallenstadt 30 
 
 Wesen 12 
 
 Zurich 40 
 
 Basle 63 
 
 Paris (by Colmar) 35J 
 
 Versailles and back by St. 
 
 Cloud 24 
 
 Calais 175 
 
 Dunkirk and back 48 
 
 London 97 
 
 Miles. 
 
 .2848 
 
 Genoa 145 
 
 Absent 85 days— average 33 miles per day. 
 Travelling 6 nights, Coach-hire, share of L. s. d. 
 posting, &c. on the average 3d. per 
 
 mile 34 11 
 
 Living 8s. per day 33 1 8 
 
 Books, seeing places, coach-hire, pass- 
 ports, and bills of exchange 2 7 4 
 
 [Say $350. 
 
 k LJ0 
 
Table of Coins. 
 
 67 
 
 II. VALUE OF THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COINS, 
 
 In sterling money, and dollars and cents.* 
 
 Coins of Value in 
 
 Great Britain. ** '• d - 
 
 $ cts. 
 
 Penny 
 
 . u 
 
 Shilling 
 
 . 22| 
 
 Crown, or 5s 
 
 1 12 
 
 Sovereign, or 1/.... 
 
 .4 44 
 
 Guinea, or 21s 
 
 .4 67 
 
 France. 
 
 
 Piece of L centime mo. 
 
 .0i-s 
 
 11 I sous OJ. 
 
 . 1 
 
 " 5 "ifranc 2*. 
 
 . 5 
 
 " 10 "* ■■ 5. 
 
 . 10 
 
 " 15 "f " 7J. 
 
 . 14 
 
 " 20 "1 " 10 . 
 
 . 19| 
 
 « 40 "2 " 1 8 . 
 
 . 33 
 
 " 20 " 5 " 4 2. 
 
 . 94 
 
 Napoleon 20 " 16 9 . 
 
 .3 81 
 
 Louis d'or 16 8. 
 
 .3 81 
 
 Switzerland. 
 
 
 Kreutzer 1}. 
 
 . 1 
 
 Batz U. 
 
 . 3 
 
 Livre 1 2 . 
 
 . 27 
 
 Italy. 
 
 
 Ducat of Naples.... 3 9 . 
 
 . 81 
 
 Livre of Florence. 8£ 
 
 .. 16 
 
 Value in 
 
 . d. S cU. 
 
 4 8 ..1 5 
 
 ..3 20 
 
 4*.. 9 
 
 Bf.. 11 
 
 Crowns of Tus'ny. 
 
 Pislole 
 
 Carlin 
 
 Roman Paoli 
 
 Germany. 
 [Accounts are made 
 in rix dollars, flo- 
 rins and groschen.] 
 Austrian Kreutztrs, 
 " Groschen 
 
 " florin 
 
 " rix dollar 
 Hamburg rix dollar 
 Prussian do 
 
 " florin 
 
 Leipsic do 
 
 Saxon dollar 
 
 Holland. 
 
 Stiver 
 
 Scalln 
 
 Guider or florin 
 
 Rix dollar 
 
 * N. B. The value is not always given exactly to a fraction, though 
 near enough for the purpose of the touris-t ;— and it is the -par value, 
 exclusive of exchange. Thus the pound sterling for instance, at the 
 far of exchange, is worth U 80 to S4 87*. The best hard money for the 
 tourist, is the English Sovereign, French Napoleon, and five franc 
 pieces. These wilf pass for thefr fall value in any part of the Conti- 
 nent; but the coins of other States had better be disposed of where 
 they belong. 
 
 
 05 
 
 1|. 
 
 . 3 
 
 2 9 . 
 
 . 62J 
 
 3 5 . 
 
 . 77! 
 
 4 6 . 
 
 .100 
 
 3 . 
 
 . 68 
 
 1 . 
 
 . 23 
 
 2 2 . 
 
 . 48 
 
 3 1 . 
 
 . 69 
 
 1 . 
 
 . 2 
 
 6. 
 
 . 12 
 
 1 F . 
 
 . 38$ 
 
 4 3 , 
 
 ,. 97 
 
63 Appendix. 
 
 III. LIST OF SOME OF THE MORE RECENT BOOKS OF 
 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 
 
 Beattie : Switzerland and Scotland illustrated. Each in 
 
 4to, with fine engravings. London, 1837. 
 
 Beck ford : Italy; with Sketches of Spain and Portugal. 
 
 Philadelphia, 1831. 2 vols. 12mo. 
 [I Ins work was written seven years since.] 
 
 Brooks, (Jas.) : Letters from Europe in 1S35. [Pub- 
 lished only in the papers.] 
 
 Bui we r, E. L. : England and the English. New-York. 
 2 vols. 
 
 : Pilgrims of the Rhine. New-York. 12mo. 
 
 Condor : Italy. 3 vols., 18mo. London, 1833. 
 
 Carter: Letters from Europe. N.York, 1837. 2 v. 
 
 (One of the best books on Euiope.) 
 
 Codman, (Dr.): Visit to England, &c. 1836. 
 
 Cooper, (J. F.) : England, France, Switzerland and Italy. 
 lOvo's. 1836. 
 
 Colton, (Calvin) : Four Years in Great Britain, 1831-5. 
 i2mo. New-York, 1836. [Contains valuable statis- 
 tics, &o\] 
 
 Dewey, (Orville) : The Old World and the New. New- 
 York, 1636. 2 v. 
 (A delightful book, by an elegant writer ) 
 
 Grant : The Great Metropolis. New-York, 1837. 12mo. 
 Hauss<;z, the Baron d' : Great Britain in 1833. Phila. 
 1833. 12mo. 
 
List of Travels in Europe. 69 
 
 Head : Tour through the Manufacturing Districts of Eng. 
 
 land. New-York, 1836. 12mo. 
 Hoppus : The Continent in 1835. New-York, 1837. 
 
 12mo. 
 Irving, (W.) : ' Sketch Book,' etc. 
 Jameson, (Anna) : Visits and Sketches at Home and 
 
 Abroad. New-York, 1836. 2 vols. 
 
 (The works of art in Germany and Italy are copiously and grace- 
 fully referred to in these volumes ) 
 
 Peale, (Rembrandt) : Notes on Italy, 1829-30. Phila- 
 delphia, 1831. 8vo. 
 
 Puckler, (Muskau) : Tour in England, France, &c, in 
 1829. 1 v. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1833. 
 
 Pompeii. 2 v. 18mo. Boston, 1833, 
 
 Quin, (M. I.): Steam Voyage down the Dannie, etc. 
 New-York, 1837. 12mo. 
 
 Raumer : England in 1835. Philadelphia. 1 v. 8vo. 
 
 Rush, (Richard) : Memoranda at London. 8vo. 
 
 Slight Reminiscences of the Rhine, Switzerland, &c. 
 Philadelphia, 1835. 2 vols. 
 
 Slidell, (Lieut.) : An American in England. New- York, 
 1836. 2 vols. 
 
 Stewart, C. S. : Society in Great Britain. 1834. 2 v. 
 
 Switzerland, France, Italy, etc., illustrated by Prout and 
 Harding, with letter-press by Roscoc. Landscape An- 
 nual, 1830-7. Also in quarto. 
 
 Thorburn : Men and Manners in Great Britain. New- 
 York, 1835. 12mo. 
 
 Tour in Holland. 18mo, [Family Library.] London 
 
 183*. 
 
 7 
 
70 Appendix. 
 
 Trollope, (Mrs.) : Paris and the Parisians. 8vo. New. 
 York, 1837. 
 
 . : Belgium and Western Germany in 1830. 
 
 8vo. 
 
 Willis, (N. P.) : Pencillingsby the Way. Europe gener- 
 ally. 2 v. 1837. 
 
 Guide Boohs, etc. 
 
 1st. General: Brochedon's Road Book to Naples ; Hand 
 Book for Travellers on the Continent ; Starke's Direc- 
 tions, &c. [See p. 23.] 
 
 England: Leigh's Road Book ; Leigh's Picture of Lon. 
 don. 
 
 Scotland: Leigh's; 'The Scottish Tourist:' Picture of 
 Edinburgh, etc. 
 
 Ireland : Leigh's Road Book ; Picture of Dublin. 
 
 France : Reichard's Itinerary ; Galignani's or Planta's 
 Paris. 
 
 Switzerland ; EbeVs 
 
 Italy : Reichard's : Vasis, Rome and Naples. Picture of 
 Florence, etc. 
 
 Germany ; Reichard's. — Panorama of the Rhine, etc. 
 
 Belgium : Boyce's. — Romberg's Brussels, etc. 
 
Tour for Health. 71 
 
 IV. TOUR FOR HEALTH. 
 
 Dr. James Johnson, in his admirable work, " Chancre of 
 Air, or the Pursuit of Heallh and Recreation," gives the follow- 
 ing "Sketch of a Tour of Health." The following were the 
 regular journeys and the points of nightly repose. 1. Sitting- 
 bourn. 2. Dover. 3. Calais. 4. Boulogne. 5. Abbeville. 
 6. Rouen 7. Along the banks of the Seine to Mantes. 8. 
 Paris, with various excursions and perambulations. 9. Fon- 
 taineblloau. 10. Auxerre. 11. Vitteaux. 12. Dijon, with 
 excursions. 13. Champagnole, in the Jura mountains. 14. 
 Geneva, with various excursions. 15. Salenche. 16. Cha- 
 mouni, with various excursions to the Mcr do Glace, Jardin, 
 Buet, &c. 17. Across the Col de Balme, to Martigny, with 
 excursions up the Valais. 18. By the valley of Entrement, 
 &c, to the Great St. Bernard, with excursions. 19. Back to 
 Martigny. 20. Ivian on the lake of Geneva, with excursions. 
 21. Geneva. 22. Lausanne, with excursions. 23. La Sarna. 
 24. Neufcbatcl. 25. Berne, with excursions and perambula- 
 tions. 26. Thoun. 27. Valley of Lauterbrunen, with various 
 circuits. 28. Grindenwalde, with excursions to the Glaciers, 
 &c. 29. Over the grand Scheidec to Meyringen, with excur- 
 sions to waterfalls, &c 30. By Erientz, lake of Brientz, Inter- 
 lakcn, and Lake of Thoun, with various excursions to the Gics- 
 bach, and other waterfalls, back to Thoun. 31. Berne. 32. 
 ZofTengen. 33. Lucerne, with various excursions. 34. Zoug 
 and Zurich. 35. ScbarThauscn and falls of the Rhiae. 86. 
 Mewstad in the Black Forest. 37. By the Vallee d'Rnfei to 
 
72 Appendix. 
 
 Offlmburg. 38. Carlsruhe, with excursions. 38. Heidelberg. 
 40. Darmstadt. 41. Frankfort on the Maine, with excursions. 
 42. Mayence, with excursions. 43. Coblcntz, Bingen, Bonn, 
 &c. 44. Cologne. 45. Aix-la-Chapelle, with excursions. 
 46. Lieg.-. 47. Brussels, with a week's excursions. 48. 
 Ghent and Courtray. 49. Dunkirk. 50. Calais. 51. Dover. 
 52. London. 
 
 This tour occupied the months of August, September, and 
 October, being taken by slow journeys to suit invalids. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 MADE DURING A TOUR OP EIGHT MONTHS IN GREAT BRITAIN, AND ON 
 THE CONTINENT, IN 1836. 
 
 I. 
 
 The Voyage — Liverpool. 
 
 Liverpool, April 6, 1836. 
 Dear Mother : — Nineteen days only have passed 
 since the last link which bound us to home and the steamer 
 Hercules was severed from our goodly ship England off 
 Sandy Hook, and with the usual feelings of all [generous 
 and patriotic hearts on such occasions, we bade you and 
 
 "Our native land, good night!" 
 
 And now we are three thousand miles apart, and an ocean 
 rolls between us. 
 
 The voyage was very like others which have been 
 * written of in books' by Geoffrey Crayon and his numer- 
 ous successors. It was short and sweet, and had ' a plen- 
 tiful lack of incident ;' and you will certainly not expect 
 me to make any new disclosures of the wonders of the 
 great deep. Our gallant captain, ■ rough, bluff, and seven 
 and twenty,' (i. e. when the representative of Juliet 
 Capulet sailed with him,) was as courteous and popular as 
 ever ; the life of the company, the genius of good order 
 and the leader of all the fun. And then the mate, who 
 
 7 
 
74 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. ' 
 
 was always teaching our noble ship the ' push along, 
 keep moving system,' was the same Curtis* whom Fanny 
 has immortalized — the hero who shook her roughly by the 
 arm, to awake her to the glories of New- York harbor by 
 sunrise. And we had, too, a well-assorted variety of pas- 
 sengers, including a young couple, going forth on a bridal 
 tour — and all inclined to be merry and sociable. And like 
 the rich man in the parable, we fared sumptuously every 
 day. Truly it was a pleasant time we had. I almost con- 
 cluded that the terrors of a sea voyage were fabulous ; for 
 we could scarcely have been more comfortable, even, at our 
 best hotels. You well know how famous are our packet 
 ships, particularly those of the Liverpool line, for beauty, 
 fast sailing, and elegant accommodations ; and the ' Eng- 
 land' is second to none.f 'She walks the water like a 
 thing of life.' 
 
 You may perhaps be interested in the few mems made 
 during the passage, but as to " story, bless me ! I have 
 none to tell, sir !" 
 
 March 16th, (first day) : steamer left us at 3 1-2 P. M. 
 Before dark, the last faint glimmering of land had disap- 
 peared, and we were alone on the vast expanse of ocean, 
 with the heavens for our canopy. At dinner, the worthy 
 captain, the despotic sovereign of our little world for the 
 time-being, introduces its inhabitants to each other, with 
 some occasional Ion-mots, ' taking wine' with each at the 
 
 * Then of the ' Pacific.' 
 
 t I was gratified to find that the New-York packets are visited 
 among other lions at Liverpool, as models and curiosities in na- 
 val architecture. 
 
Voyage to Liverpool. 75 
 
 table in succession, and 'doing the honors' with both 
 dignity and good-humor. 
 
 17th. Awakened by the lowing of the cow, crowing of 
 chanticleer, and gabbling of the ducks, — strange sounds 
 for a morning at sea. We go ' ten knots ;' sea begins to 
 swell. * * * * 
 
 18th. I must acknowledge a queer feeling, a little 
 anti-salubrious, for a couple of hours, but now I am well 
 as ever, though the ship rolls, and pitches, and thumps me 
 and the moveables about most unmercifully. Saw for the 
 first time what the sailors would call a 'heavy sea;' 
 which tosses our huge vessel like an egg-shell, and but for 
 the nonchalance of the captain, and the coolness of the 
 sailors standing on the ropes and yards a hundred feet 
 above, and projecting over the dark abyss, a landman 
 might think there was danger in't. You know my propen- 
 sity for quotations : — did you ever appreciate Byron's 
 apostrophe to the Ocean ? — 
 
 " Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form 
 Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, 
 Calm or convulsed — in breeze, or gale, or storm, 
 Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime 
 Dark heaving ; — boundless, endless, and sublime — 
 The image of Eternity — the throne 
 Of the Invisible; even from out thy slime 
 The monsters of the deep are made: each zone 
 Obeys thee; thou goest forth dread, fathomless, alone." 
 
 And then how accurate are the lines : — 
 
 11 O'er the glad wat< rs of the dark l>hic sea, 
 Our thoughts as boundless, and our .souls as free," 
 
76 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 The water is literally of this color, and looks very differ- 
 ent from that near the shore. But the sublime, the awful 
 commotion ; the dark waters lashed into snow-white foam, 
 rising into vast hills and forming fearful chasms between ; 
 and yet our gallant bark rides proudly over them and goes 
 on her way * rejoicing as a strong man to run a race.' 
 Splendid sunset — it looked ' for all the world' like a pillar 
 of fire, resting on the water. We have sailed five de- 
 grees in twenty-four hours. 
 
 19th. N. W. snow, rain, and hail storm — cold and 
 dreary. Sea looks magnificently. Helped the captain 
 assort the ship's letters ; there are 6,159 ! and yet there is 
 a packet from New-York to Great Britain seven times a 
 month. While the men were discussing whiskey-punch 
 for the * health of sweethearts and wives,' (as usual on 
 Saturday evenings at sea) I was ungallant enough to be 
 revising the ■ London catalogue of books,' and heard a 
 whisper of one of the carousers : — 
 
 il A 'chiels' amang us takin' notes, 
 An' faith he'll prent it." 
 
 22d. By the captain's " observation" we are in long. 
 54 deg. or 1000 miles from New-York. Ladies still < un- 
 der the weather.' After dinner, a concert of ' sweet 
 songs' from Zip Coon to Barney Brallaghan, and the cap- 
 tain's ' Old England's on our lee, my boys.' 
 
 25th. We do not lack diversion, and to-day we had fun 
 extraordinary. Mr. , a good-natured soul, not over- 
 stocked in his ' upper deck' was formally indicted for di- 
 vers misdemeanors, and brought before a regular court in 
 
Voyage to Liverpool 77 
 
 the ladies' cabin, with a jury of four, and the captain in 
 suitable robes, perched on the bench as * my lord the 
 
 judge.' The district attorney, Mr. opened the 
 
 prosecution with five ' counts' — charging the prisoner 
 with entering the ladies' cabin without permission — riding 
 a broom-stick on deck, etc., thereby putting said ladies in 
 great bodily fear, etc., etc. Witnesses were called and 
 cross-questioned, the case ' for the people' was ably argued, 
 and I, as counsel for the prisoner, made out the defence, 
 closing by a hint to his worship and the gentlemen of the 
 jury, that 
 
 " The quality of mercy is not strained, 
 It droppeth as the gentle dew from heaven 
 Upon the place beneath." etc. 
 
 The judge ' summed up' and ' charged,' the jury retired, 
 and brought in a verdict of guilty — his lordship put on his 
 
 black cap, and pronounced sentence " that said • 
 
 shall not speak to said ladies for the space of twenty-four 
 hours !" — It was all done with grave and legal form, and 
 though you may think such child's play very silly, perhaps 
 you would readily join in it to relieve the monotony of 
 being day after day cooped up even in a floating palace 
 like this. Long. 38 dcg., or half-way to Liverpool ; clap- 
 ping of hands. 
 
 Sunday, 27th. Episcopal service in the cabin, and ser- 
 mon by Rev. Mr. J. — We all joined in an appropriate 
 hymn to the tune of Old Hundred. 
 
 28th. Dancing, games, singing, and recitations on 
 7* 
 
78 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 deck. Had a gale last night, which swept us along at the 
 rate of 14 miles per hour. Breeze still fresh and fair. 
 
 31st. The sea has changed to deep green, so we must 
 be near land. — P. M. We are now sailing along the coast 
 of Ireland ; at three o'clock we first saw land distinctly, 
 just fifteen days after bidding adieu to our own shores. 
 The passage seems like a dream. It has averaged 233 
 miles per day. Sundry speeches and toasts at dinner, com- 
 plimentary to the gallant seamen who had thus, as it were, 
 'annihilated time and space !' 
 
 April 1st. As if in keeping with the day, we are 
 cheated of our brilliant prospects by a storm and head 
 wind. This Irish channel is the worst part of the voy- 
 age* — the motion of the vessel is much more disagreeable 
 than in the sea, f the open sea' — ' the blue, the fresh, the 
 ever free !' Saw two steamboats — one bound from Bris- 
 tol to Waterford ; also, a ship seemingly just dismasted, on 
 the Welch coast. Eve. ; passed the ' Columbus,' bound 
 out, and '■ signalized' ourselves by two rockets. * * * * 
 
 4th. Well,- — not to be too prosy, I will only ' sum up' 
 the voyage with a ' curtailed abbreviation' of our 'making' 
 Holyhead, the rocky point guarding like a sentinel, the 
 entrance to Liverpool Bay ; and how we unkindly desert- 
 ed our noble ship, which had borne us so gently and safely 
 over the great deep, and stepped on board a pigmy steamer 
 for the sake of landing a few hours sooner ; and how beau- 
 tiful the dear old England looked as we thus left her in 
 
 * Vessels after crossing the Atlantic in 15 days, have been de- 
 tained 17 more, by foggy storms in this channel. 
 
Liverpool, 79 
 
 the silence of a starry night, bearing up bravely against 
 the tide with every inch of her canvass spread to the 
 breeze, and seeming to reproach us with our ingratitude. 
 Passing a fleet of vessels and a host of light houses, (one of 
 which, a revolving many-colored luminary, guided us 
 into the Mersey) we were landed at 11 P. M. at St. 
 George's dock. By the way, what docks are those, my 
 countrymen ! Substantial, spacious, well covered, and 
 well paved : what a contrast to those in New-York. But 
 hush ! I will not abuse home on my first day in Europe. 
 Coachman drove us to the Adelphi — 'quite full' — very 
 sorry, ' recommended the Waterloo' — and so thither we 
 posted, the Spaniard, the German, and I, the rest of us 
 being scattered to the ' Kind's Arms/ ' Star and Garter,' 
 etc. And here. I am, comfortably quartered in Liver- 
 pool ! 
 
 5th. Rained all day of course — I expected no other 
 introduction to « merry England.' The city looks much 
 as I expected — buildings high, and of a smoky, sombre 
 color. Store houses on the docks, immense piles, seven 
 or eight stories high, gloomy as prisons. Town Hall, a 
 handsome Corinthian edifice in a large square; cicerone 
 as portly and dignified as an alderman ; hardly dared to 
 offer the shilling to so stately a personage, but he took it 
 nevertheless, with a gracious bow. The halls are magnifi- 
 cent ; — the mayor's ' receiving room' alone, is as large as 
 our ' Masonic Hall.' Statue of Canning by Chantrey ; 
 paintings by Sir Thomas Lawrence : and thus ends my 
 first lesson in European lions. 
 
80 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 There are no public tables at hotels in England, as 
 you are aware. Each guest orders whatever he pleases, 
 and dines by himself at whatever time he pleases : a cus- 
 tom convenient, though rather unsociable. And how nice 
 every thing is — no gaudy show, but every thing appropri- 
 ate and good. Some of the servants look more like a 
 French dancing master in a ball dress, than like subor- 
 dinates ordered here and there at your pleasure. And how 
 respectful and obliging they are. 
 
 6th. So far as I have seen, Liverpool is less to be 
 liked than New- York, the docks only excepted. The 
 streets have a dark, dingy appearance, which makes one 
 melancholy. But a glance under an umbrella is scarcely 
 a fair test. 
 
Ride to Birmingham, 81 
 
 II. 
 
 Ride to Birmingham — Warwick Castle — Kenilicorth — Stratford- 
 oji-Avoii. 
 
 Birmingham, April 7. At seven yesterday morning, I 
 stepped into one of the cars of the Liverpool and Manches- 
 ter Railway. Near the depot we passed through a tunnel 
 several hundred feet long, cut through a solid rock, and 
 dark as Egypt. The speed varied from fifteen to twenty-five 
 miles per hour. We passed eight or ten trains, some with 
 passengers, others with coal or cotton goods. From the 
 American packets at Liverpool they obtain the raw mate- 
 rial, take it to Manchester, and return it in the shape of 
 cases of calicoes, etc. Having travelled thirty miles in an 
 hour and a half, before breakfast, we were at the ' Palace' 
 hotel in Manchester, the busy city of. factories and ware- 
 houses. 1 lacked curiosity enough to stay there more 
 than a few hours, and therefore perched myself for the 
 first time on the ■ outside' of an English stage coach for 
 the place of ' hardware.' Passed through Stockport, ' an 
 ancient town,' noted for makers of hats. Some of the 
 streets there, cross under the stage road, so that we rode 
 over the houses and people below. Amusing notices along 
 the road — ' This land to lease for 999 years.' ■ Vagrants 
 and beggars beware !' ' Richard Shakspeare, licensed 
 retailer of beer, porter, etc. to be drunk on the premises.' 
 Ina shabby little country village there was a 'Druggist 
 to the Queen' in flaming letters ; (query, does her Majcs- 
 
82 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 ty send there for her medicines ?) The country generally 
 level, and the roads excellent ; some high hills in the dis- 
 tance. Passed several 'gentlemen's seats' just observa- 
 ble from the road — with verdant lawns, neat ' porter's 
 lodges' and beautiful ponds, clear as crystal, and occupied 
 by the graceful white swans. Coachee, strange to say, 
 gave us time to discuss a tolerable dinner at Stafford, and 
 then, driving through Buxton, famed for its mineral springs, 
 Wolverhampton, and two or three more places, I was set 
 down at the Albion in Birmingham, the best town I have 
 seen yet in Albion's isle, and we have a fine day to see it 
 in. The market building is immense ; imagine three of 
 the Boston market houses put together side by side, and 
 open in the interior up to the roof of skylights, and you 
 will have a pretty correct notion of this. The town-hall 
 has an elegant Corinthian colonnade on all sides. 
 
 Warwick, 8th, 4 P. M. I have just returned from a 
 visit to the castles of Warwick and Kenilworth — excite- 
 ment enough to make one speechless for the rest of the 
 day. Need I describe what a host of learned authors have 
 already made familiar to you ? However, you wished me 
 to tell my own story in my own way, and now you may 
 bear the infliction.* Warwick Castle is on a rock over- 
 hanging the Avon, but a few minutes' walk from the town, 
 and is not to be seen as you come near the grounds, till 
 you arrive at the very walls. A well-dressed elderly man 
 with a cockade like our 'seventy sixes,' answered my 
 
 * We say a few words more of Warwick as being- a republi- 
 can's first lesson in such matters, and a fair sample of other ' noble' 
 residences. 
 
Birmingham — Warwick Castle. 83 
 
 summons at the porter's lodge, and with a glance at his 
 watch (strangers are not admitted after 11 A. M., while 
 the family are here) took me into the ' lodge' to see the 
 porridge pot of Guy Earl of Warwick ! (an iron bowl 
 which would contain half a barrel) and the walking stick 
 (eight feet long) and spear and helmet of this same Guy, 
 and then sent me up to the castle itself, through a long cir- 
 cular pathway cut out of a solid rock, the walls on each 
 side green with the creeping ivy. Novice as I am in these 
 matters, you may well suppose me awe-struck by the im- 
 posing grandeur with which the lordly towers first burst 
 upon the view. I passed under the battlements into the 
 area, and found myself surrounded by massive structures of 
 stone, forming a quadrangle, and covering three or four 
 acres. Bewildered by the number of entrances on all 
 sides, and not venturing to storm the castle by the princi- 
 pal portico, I finally found myself in the beautiful chapel, 
 where a person was standing before the altar whom I char- 
 itably concluded was the Earl at his devotions. Presently 
 entered the cicerone, a lady-like and intelligent person,* 
 and I commenced exploring. Expecting to see nothing 
 but dreary, antique halls, how was I delighted, when ush- 
 ered into that magnificent range of apartments, extending 
 three hundred and thirty-three feet in a line, on one side, 
 only, of the castle, overlooking the river, and furnished in 
 a style of which the epithet superb scarcely gives you an 
 
 + I was told that the cicerones at some of these ' show places,' 
 pay several thousand pounds per annum for their situations, so 
 profitable arc the fees ! 
 
84 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 idea, as we apply it to things insignificant in comparison. 
 And what is more, they looked comfortable ; a bright coal 
 fire in each room, with ottomans, and every modern ele- 
 gance. Not to tire you with a catalogue, I will barely 
 allude to the valuable paintings — this by Rubens, that by 
 Vandyck ; tables, curiously inlaid with brass, and others 
 of variegated marbles, beautifully polished ; an antique 
 head of Minerva, truly exquisite in finish ; * Queen Anne's 
 bed ;' tapestries ; and sundry other luxurious articles which 
 adorn these stately halls. I was shown all the rooms, save 
 that at the moment occupied by the earl's family ; i. e., 
 all in the inhabited part of the castle, which is only one- 
 fourth of the whole. The views from these apartments 
 are extremely pretty. The Avon meanders through the 
 grove, one hundred feet below the castle : and 
 
 " Birds on the branches are singing, 
 While echo repeats their lay: 
 In an enchanting grove." 
 
 Before taking leave, I was escorted (by special favor) to 
 the armory, a long hall, and about six feet wide, actually 
 cut out of the thickness of the castle walls ! Here they had 
 ancient armor of all sorts — Roman swords, helmets, spears, 
 bows, and coats of mail. 
 
 You are aware that this is much the finest of the old 
 English baronical castles — the most perfect and complete 
 in all its parts, and the only one now remaining entire. It 
 is the very beau ideal of strength, durability, and the pic- 
 turesque, in happy unison. Its walls have been standing 
 eight hundred years, and they look capable of existing as 
 
Ruins of Kenilworth. 85 
 
 much longer, and of defying the world with impunity. 
 But now, the visiter, instead of being welcomed at the pon- 
 derous portals by warriors bold, is received by a pretty 
 blue-eyed damsel, who will 
 
 " Bow him through donjon-keep and hall 
 For three and sixpence sterling." 
 
 And I departed, musing on ages past, when after a pleas- 
 ant ride of an hour from Warwick, I was set down amidst 
 a swarm of juvenile sellers of guide-books, at the entrance 
 to the ruins of Kenilworth. Here was a castle, once as 
 extensive and impregnable as the one I had just visited : 
 but now the massive walls are fast falling to decay, and 
 the sheep are grazing in peace and quiet where all the mag- 
 nificence of the Elizabethan age had been concentrated. 
 A good-natured old man, who makes a business of show- 
 ing the place, admitted me by the same portal through 
 which passed England's virgin queen, when she came to 
 honor the princely entertainments of her favorite Leicester. 
 The ruins are extremely pictucesque in their present state, 
 and show that the castle was of prodigious extent. I 
 climbed up ' Caesar's tower,' and looked down on the sites 
 of the ' presence chamber' and the little lake and floating 
 island, where the ' water-nymphs' had their aquatic sports 
 to amuse the haughty, sensible, and capricious queen. 
 The place is now a meadow for pasturing cows. And I 
 peeped into the dungeons of Mervyn's tower, 'where,' said 
 the old man, * they put the bad folks, and they couldn't 
 get out,' which seemed quite probable. What a pity, said 
 I, that the walls of the castle should have been so battered 
 
 8 
 
8G Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 down. ' Yes,' said my ancient guide, 'you may thank 
 old Cromwell for that.' These walls encompassing an 
 area of seven acres, were ' so spacious and faire that two or 
 three persons could walk together upon most places there- 
 of.'* But as Shakspeare sa) s — 
 
 "The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces^ 
 The solemn temples, the great globe itself, 
 Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve, 
 And like an unsubstantial pageant faded, 
 Or like the baseless labric of a vision, 
 Leave not a rack behind.'' 
 
 Well, after seeing so much I am going, the same day, to 
 the house of him whose name and works will live lone af- 
 ter these mighty castles shall have crumbled to the dust. 
 Yes — like all dutiful travellers, I of course added my name 
 to the list of illustrious pilgrims in the album at Stratford- 
 on- Avon. The birth-place and the tomb of Shakspeare ! 
 Who would go to England and pass them by without a' 
 visit ? What a host of grancfesimos, besides the multitude 
 of humbler gentry, have deigned to worship at this intel- 
 lectual shrine ! — or, in other words, to follow the old cice- 
 rone up those narrow back stairs to the lowly apartment 
 where the Bard of Nature was cradled, and there to scrib- 
 ble their names on the rude walls, or in the goodly quarto. 
 There I saw the autographs of ' William Henry, Duke of 
 Clarence,' 'Walter Scott,' 'Countess Guicciolli,' 'Cole- 
 ridge,' ' Charles Lamb,' with scores of similar names, and 
 in army of them from the United States. I copied some 
 
 * Description published in 1539. 
 
Stratford, on. Avon, 87 
 
 of the many inscriptions in the ' Ollapod' of an album, 
 which you may like to have : 
 
 "Of mighty Shak?peare's birth, the room we see, 
 That where he died, in \ain to find, we try ; 
 Useless the search ; for all immortal He, 
 And they who are immortal, never die. 
 
 Washington Irving." 
 
 " Shak?peare ! Thy name revered is no less, 
 By us, who often reckon, sometimes guess ; 
 Though England claims the glory of thy birth, 
 None more appreciate thy pages' worth, 
 Nor more admire thy scenes well acted o'er, 
 Than we of 'states unborn' in ancient lore. 
 
 James H. Hackett." 
 
 The esteemed and lamented Carter : 
 
 "Think not, Britannia, all the tears are thine, 
 Winch flow, a tribute to this hallowed shrine; 
 Pilgrims from every land shall hither come, 
 And fondly linger round the poet's tomb." 
 '1825. Nov. 18. N.H.Carter, 
 
 H. J. EcKFORD. 
 
 Not being ' wise above what is written,' I shall spare 
 you a rhi[ sody of my own on the occasion. To tell the 
 truth, as ill-luck would have it, I could not get up a fit of 
 enthusiasm. I was not inspired even by the (repressive little 
 sign which is poked out over the door, and tells the heed- 
 less urchin of Stratford, as well as the eager pilgrim from 
 foreign clinics, that 
 
 " The immortal S'hakfpeare 
 Was born in \h\s bouse." 
 
 Ami then to be bowed up stairi and down, 
 " For only six] < QQ Bterling !" 
 
Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 'Twas cheap, to be sure ; but there was something droll 
 in the idea. Of course, I spent half a crown beside, for 
 seeing the tomb in the church, which, by-the-way, is a fine 
 old edifice of its kind ; and mine host has also shown me, 
 gratis, the mulberry tree in his garden, which was planted 
 by the great bard himself. They are going to have a 
 'grand jubilee' here shortly ; and an oration is to be de- 
 livered by somebody whose name I have forgotten ; but as 
 he styles himself the * American Tragedian,' you will 
 know, I suppose, to whom this title belongs. 
 
 III. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Amusements — Paintings — Music — Princess Victoria — The King 
 and Queen — Noted Singers — Literary Residences — The Tower 
 — House of Commons. 
 
 London in May. — The ' fashionable season' is now in its 
 prime. Parliament is sitting, and every body is in town. 
 How strangely they arrange, or rather disarrange, the 
 order of nature here in England ! Come to town in May, 
 for the winter season, and go into the country in Decern- 
 ber, to spend Christmas ! Yes, if you wish to see London 
 in all its gbry, come here in the blooming month of May. 
 The queen of cities then puts on her gayest attire, and all 
 her thousand attractions and amusements are ready to draw 
 on your purse. First, if you like paintings, there is the 
 Royal Academy exhibition in Somerset House, which, by. 
 
Paintings — Music — Victoria. 89 
 
 the-way, is soon to be removed to a part of the new Na- 
 tional Gallery at Charing Cross, where you will see the 
 collection of old masters recently exhibiting in Pall Mail. 
 Then there is the Society of British Artists in the latter 
 street, and two societies of painters, in water-colors ; all of 
 whose exhibitions are crowded with fashionables. They 
 seem to pay special attention to this water-color depart- 
 ment, and the present collections are really brilliant. In 
 books, sculpture, natural curiosities, etc., there is that im- 
 mense repository, the British Museum, freely open to all 
 visiters. The Benevolent Society Anniversaries take 
 place this month, at Exeter Hall ; and there is always a 
 u r oar musical treat at St. Paul's for the charity children, 
 and also for the sons of the clergy. Speaking of music, I 
 was thriftless enough to go to Exeter Hall last evening, to 
 the great musical festival, where six hundred performers, 
 beside the organ and big drum, concerted together a ' con- 
 cord of sweet sounds.' I wonder what a Connecticut 
 singing-master, fortified with a pine pitch-pipe and a * Mu- 
 sica Sacra,' would have said to it ! The Dutchess of Kent 
 and the Princess Victoria were to be there ; and when 
 appeared in the front gallery seat, the whole audience rose, 
 and gave them three cheers, which were, of con; 
 ciously acknowledged' by their highnesses, with sundry 
 bows. The princess is now seventeen, unnecessarily pret- 
 ty, and dresses with a neatn< ss -wx^ simplicity which would 
 be a pattern for New- York belles. She appears to be in- 
 telligent, sensible, and unaffected, and is doubtless v< rv 
 thoroughly educated; they saj she can speak nearly all 
 8* 
 
90 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 the languages of Europe. She is evidently the darling of 
 the people, and, I hope, deservedly so ; but she must be a 
 very fine girl, if she can wear all her honors, and sip all the 
 flattery which is paid to her, and yet not be spoiled. Her 
 mother, the Dutchess, seemed to be a restless, bustling sort 
 of person, and I set her down as being, at least, no more 
 than a woman.* 
 
 Among the distinguished vocalists of the day, Henry 
 Phillips is pre-eminent. His voice is rich and highly cul- 
 tivated, and he uses it in the best taste. He sings in Balfe's 
 new opera, ' the Maid of Artois,' in which I had also the 
 fortune to hear the celebrated Malibran. Those who saw 
 her when she visited New-York, some years since, would 
 scarcely recognise the present brilliant tones, and great 
 compass of her voice, so much has it improved : and not 
 only does she astonish and delight you by such sweet and 
 thrilling strains of harmony as you never before listened 
 to, but her manners and acting are equally extraordinary 
 and fascinating. She is rather small and short in figure, 
 and her face, though not handsome, is peculiarly expressive 
 and intelligent. I saw her several times in this opera, and 
 
 * I had an opportunity also of seeing the Queen on a public occasior , 
 when a full vocal company, and an immense audience joined in the na- 
 tional anthem c God save the King.' The effect was quite inspiring— it 
 made every body loyal, at least for the moment. Her Majesty is tall 
 and slender, and about forty-five; she looks amiable, yet sufficiently 
 dignified, and is generally popular with the people. I heard her spoken 
 of as ' an excellent and exemplary woman.' The kine, who is now old 
 and feeble, seldom appears in public, but I had a glance at him the 
 other day, as he was setting off' with Her Majesty for Windsor, after 
 the levee at St. James, escorted by the ' lifeguards' on horseback. ^ He 
 is a plain, good-natured looking old gentleman. 
 
London : Noted Singers — Malibran. 91 
 
 also in ' La Somnambula,' and Bethooven's opera of Fide- 
 lio, which is her chef d'ceuvre.* 
 
 The only female vocalist who is named in the same 
 breath with Malibran, is Julia Grisi, of the Italian Opera. 
 Grisi is tall, very pretty and lady-like, sings sweetly, and 
 is evidently a great favorite. Of the other Italian singers, 
 the most noted are La Blache, a portly good-looking per- 
 sonage, with tremendously powerful lungs. Rubini, whose 
 voice is a rich and flexible tenor ; Tamburini ; and Ivan- 
 hoff. The King's Theatre or opera-house, where they 
 are engaged, is said to be (with the exception of La Scala 
 at Milan, and San Carlo at Naples) the largest and most 
 splendid in Europe. The interior presents an imposing 
 spectacle. There are five tiers of boxes, all private, and 
 uniformly decorated. None but the ' monied aristocracy' 
 can afford the enormous expense of these boxes ; and no 
 person, lady or gentleman, is admitted except in full dress ! 
 Imagine the brilliant display of beauty and diamonds, on 
 such an occasion as Grisi's benefit, when the royal family, 
 and princes, dukes, dutchesses, ambassadors, honor the en- 
 tertainment with their 'gracious presence.' Every thing 
 in this aristocratic establishment is on a princely scale. 
 I counted no less than fifty- three performers in the orches- 
 tra ; and the scenery, ballets, etc., are in due proportion 
 and excellence. 
 
 1 have also had the rare treat of hearing Braiiam, who 
 
 * This was written but a few weeks before the death of the lamented 
 artiste. No < vent which occum d while I was in England, created bo 
 
 much sensation and deep rcyrct as this. 
 
92 Memoranda in Europe in 1886. 
 
 is now about sixty years of age, but still looks young, and 
 sings as well as ever. Of Liston, (whose ' very name is 
 the first act of a comedy and his face the other four,') 
 Farren, Matthews, jr., Madame Vestris, Macready, Van- 
 denhoff, and other holders of « nature's mirror,' I might 
 discourse extensively, but you shall be spared. 
 
 We have passed a leisure hour in finding out some of 
 the antiquities and literary curiosities of the metropolis ; 
 such as Boar's Head Tavern, (Mrs. Quickly's,) where 
 FalstafF, Poins, and ' Hal' called for their cups of sack. 
 In Buckingham-street, near us, is the house where Peter 
 the Great lodged, when in London. 43 Lombard-street 
 was the residence of Jane Shore. In the Old Bailey, Jon- 
 athan Wild and Oliver Goldsmith lodged. Chapter Cof- 
 fee-house, where Dr. Johnson and his coterie frequented, is 
 yet the resort of penny-a-liners and newspaper-readers. 
 In Bolt Court, Fleet-street, we saw the literary leviathan's 
 residence, and we found also those of Byron, Blackstone, 
 Cowley, Hogarth, Pope, Lord Bacon, Garrick, Gibbon, 
 Handel, Hans Holbein, Hume, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir 
 Thomas Lawrence, West, Sheridan, Sterne, Spenser, etc. 
 
 To-day I have visited the Tower and the House of 
 Commons, The first is situated on the banks of the 
 Thames, and is surrounded by a broad deep ditch, over 
 which there is a draw. bridge. The island thus formed, 
 contains several acres, and is crowded with a motley pile 
 of buildings, high and low, dwelling-houses and store-hou- 
 ses, palaces and huts, which almost entirely obscure the 
 view of the Tower ; and this itself is composed of three or 
 
London: The Tower. 93 
 
 four distinct structures. At the gate there are always 
 several ' warders,' in scarlet-laced habiliments, who make 
 a business of conducting visiters to the curiosities, for the 
 moderate fee of 2s. sterling, each person. I was first 
 taken to ' Queen Elizabeth's armory,' where are many curi- 
 ous historical relics. I lifted the axe which struck off the 
 head of poor Anne Boleyn, and despatched also ' him of 
 Essex.* The hall is filled with specimens of armor, wea- 
 pons, etc., of all sorts, which have been preserved from the 
 days of Edward I., downward. « The Train of Artillery' 
 js in another building, and comprises a quantity of big 
 guns, mortars;, etc., which John Bull has at different times 
 captured from his enemies. But the most curious and 
 splendid sight is the ' New Horse Armory,' where are ar- 
 ranged, as if in battle array, effigies of all the kings and 
 several nobles, in chronological order, from Edward I. to 
 James II., in complete armor, and on horseback, thus 
 showing the style of armor, etc., of the different periods at 
 a glance. The horses are in spirited positions, and it seems 
 as if you might really shake hands with ' bluff old Harry,' 
 the gallant Richmond, as he appeared at Bosworth field, or 
 my lord of Leicester, ' and so on.' There is an immense 
 collection of curious affairs in this hall, arranged so as to 
 present the most romantic and brilliant display imaginable. 
 'The Small Armory' is a vnst hall, three hundred and 
 forty-five feet in length, and very high, filled to the very 
 ceiling with stacks of muskets and pistols, closely piled, 
 comprising two hundred thousand, and all kept brightened 
 and flinled for immediate use. Melancholy reflection ! 
 
94 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 that such a wilderness of deadly instruments should ever 
 be used by man against his fellow ! Not feeling half a 
 crown's worth of curiosity to see the crown itself, I depart- 
 ed by the ' Traitor's Gate,' thinking of the tragedies 
 which had been acted within those once dreaded portals. 
 
 The apartment at present occupied by the House of 
 Commons is arranged much like Mrs. Willard's school- 
 room, and is quite as plain, only on a little larger scale. 
 The house was ' in committee' on the bill for the commu- 
 tation of tithes. Lord John Russell, Sir Robert Peel, 
 Lord Ho wick, (a very ' smart' young man,) and two or 
 three others, spoke on the question. I was struck with 
 their singularly calm and unpretending manner of "speak- 
 ing. It seemed more like a familiar drawing-room con- 
 versation, than the stormy debate which might be expected 
 <*n such a question, which, as was remarked, was a very 
 important one. Lord John, in particular, who has been the 
 leader of the house, and long conspicuous in the political 
 world, is as plain, straight-forward a man as one could 
 wish to see. It would seem impossible to get him excited 
 or violent in debate. Every speaker was listened to civ- 
 illy, if not attentively, and the only interruption, or rather 
 cheering, was the cry of \ Hear ! hear !' which was often 
 heard from twenty voices at once ; and occasionally there 
 was a hearty laugh. The gallery over the speaker's 
 chair is filled with reporters for the different papers, who 
 will take down a long speech in short hand, at twelve 
 o'clock at night, and the next morning at daylight you will 
 see it in print. The houses of parliament are opposite 
 
London : House of Commons — St. PauVs. 95 
 
 Westminster Abbey, and the new buildings are to be 
 erected on the old site. The ruins of the old houses are 
 adjoining the halls now temporarily occupied. 
 
 IV. 
 
 LONDON, CONTINUED. 
 
 St. Pauls — Rev. T. Hartwell Home — Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Sunday, April 16. — I have attended church for the. 
 first time in London at St. Paul's. You are aware that 
 this vast and magnificent edifice stands in the very heart 
 of London — in the midst of the most crowded and busy por- 
 tion of this busy city. What a pity that it should be thus 
 obscured — and smoked too. as black as a stove pipe. I 
 entered cautiously, with my hand in my pocket, expecting 
 some civil, obliging person would tip his beaver, as usual, 
 for a shilling : but, strange to say, I was suffered to pass 
 unmolested. The greater part of the interior is one vast 
 open space, extending into the four wings, and up to the 
 very highest dome. As you stand in the centre and look 
 up to the windows of the topmost cupola, it seems almost 
 like looking into heaven. You see a truly grand and noble 
 triumph of man's ingenuity and perseverance. The im- 
 mensity of the structure is wonderful ; but you must look 
 again and again before it can be fully comprehended. On 
 the walls, and in the niches and corners, arc groups of 
 statuary and monuments, some exceedingly beautiful, and 
 
96 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 most of them to military and naval personages. Public 
 worship is held only in a chapel in one of the wings, form- 
 ing a mere item of the whole structure. I was guided to 
 it by the sound of the organ, echoing back from the vast 
 arches, and impressively grand in its effect. Men in robes, 
 wi h poles, stood at the door — ' beadles,' I believe they are 
 called. The chapel is of much the same size and style as 
 those at Oxford, and there were not more than one hundred 
 persons in it — the larger part of them apparently strangers, 
 attracted merely from curiosity, like myself. In fact, as I 
 afterward learned, there are few or no regular attendants 
 in this far-famed St. Paul's. Why, I cannot imagine. 
 The chanting was done by boys. The preacher was a 
 short, thick man, and read his sermon off ' like a book.' 
 It became so dark — being a rainy day — that he could not 
 see to read, and he had to stop once or twice. Poor man ! 
 But they say the officiates here are unbeneficed gownsmen, 
 and perhaps they cannot afford to study. His sermon was 
 dull and common-place, but delivered in a pompous, affect- 
 ed style, as if to pass it off for genuine eloquence. 
 
 Dined with Rev. T. Hartwell Horne — a name well 
 known throughout the theological world. This extraordi- 
 nary man was a bookseller's clerk, at a small salary. He 
 distinguished himself by his industry, won the notice of a 
 reverend Bishop, and was employed to make some indexes 
 to a large work, which were done so well, that he was 
 handsomely paid, and went to Cambridge and completed his 
 education with the fruits of his labors. His celebrated ' In- 
 troduction to the Study of the Scriptures,' in four large 
 
London : Rev. T. H. Home. 97 
 
 volumes, was the work of twenty years, and was all done 
 in the night, after the business of the day was over. It is 
 acknowledged to be the most accurate, comprehensive, and 
 valuable work of the kind in the language. Fifteen thou, 
 sand copies have been sold in England, and as many more 
 in the United States, and yet the three first editions scarcely 
 cleared expenses : the third produced him about one hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds for the labor of twenty years ! Mr. 
 Home is now engaged at the British Museum in preparing 
 a catalogue of that immense collection. He is a living 
 monument of industry and perseverance. He is rather small 
 in stature, remarkably neat in his personal appearance, and 
 quite active and robust, though now somewhat advanced, 
 and gray-headed. His manner is free, cordial, and busi- 
 ness-like. The moment he speaks, you are at once relieved 
 of all embarrassment, and feel that you are talking to a 
 friend — a plain, kind-hearted, unassuming friend. His wife 
 and daughter are just like him. They spoke of the many 
 Americans who had called on them — Bishops Chase, M'l!- 
 vaine, and Hobart, Dr. Wheaton, E. D. Griffin, Dr. Jarvis, 
 and Rev. Mr. Potter, formerly of Boston. * * * * I 
 was pleased to find many American books in the library, 
 and seated myself there with Mr. H. after dinner, while he 
 wrote his sermon for the same afternoon. He completed 
 it in about an hour, besides talking to me the while : and a 
 good little sermon it was ton, for I went with them to hear 
 it. * * * * The clerk drawled out the service in a 
 monotonous and pompous tone, which was really ludicrous, 
 
 9 
 
98 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 There was also a curate to read prayers, beside Mr. Home. 
 It seems, that in England each church must have a rector, 
 curate, and clerk. Mr. Home's manner in the pulpit is 
 meek, persuasive, and engaging. He uses the best words, 
 and no more than are necessary. Yet he would never be 
 called a great preacher. His talents are more useful than 
 showy. 
 
 Thursday. — Having an hour or two of leisure, after run- 
 ning about town for a week on business matters, I took a 
 stroll into St. James's Park, through Waterloo-Place, where 
 is a big monument to somebody, but it was so high I could 
 not tell who. Walked through the park by the pond to the 
 old Palace, where the king was holding a levee. As I had 
 no court dress, and no introduction, I concluded to defer 
 paying my respects to his majesty, and turned off to West- 
 minster Abbey. 
 
 Every thing of this kind must and will far exceed the 
 expectations of the uninitiated. I gazed with as much won- 
 der on the gigantic and venerable pile, as if I had never 
 heard of it before. The natural feeling of awe with which 
 one is impressed on approaching the entrance, is not much 
 increased, however, when he sees the sign over the door, 
 * Admittance three-pence.' John Bull must have his fees, it 
 seems, for every thing, and does not scruple to rill his pock- 
 ets by exhibiting the sepulchres of the mighty dead. I 
 thought of the man who was awakened from his solemn re- 
 verie after public worship in the Abbey, by the beadle's 
 announcement : 
 
London : Westminster Abbey. 99 
 
 ' Sarvice is done— it's two-pence now 
 For them as wants to stop !' 
 
 I entered by the Poet's Corner, of which you have read 
 too many descriptions to need one from rne. Having ' done* 
 the poets, I paid an additional shilling to proceed, and was 
 then' at liberty to go where I pleased ; and it is no very 
 short walk, that one may take through those long, lofty 
 arches and chapels. Monuments of all sorts, and to all 
 sorts, are as thick as blackberries, in every part of the edi- 
 fice. Many of them comprise three or four emblematic 
 figures in a group — some most exquisitely designed and 
 chiseled. I saw so many to admire, that I can scarcely re- 
 member one. There are little inclosures against the walls 
 of the Abbey, filled with tombs and monuments, principally 
 of kings, queens, and knights of old. It was curious indeed 
 to see those effigies of warriors in complete armor, cut in 
 stone or wrought in iron, laid out on the tombs, as it* they 
 were the very bodies of the renowned heroes of chivalry, 
 preserved there to frighten or enlighten their d generate 
 descendants. Many of these sepulchres are four, five, and 
 six centuries old. That of Mary Queen of Scots is beautiful. 
 There is a counterfeit presentment of her in marble: upon it, 
 and you can easily imagine you are seeing the lovely and 
 ill-fated queen herself, as she appeared i:i Iter death-robes. 
 The haughty Elizabeth sleeps in an adjoining apartment. 
 I noticed, also, monuments and sculptures of the two princes 
 murdered in the Tower by the bloody Richard, of Henry 
 Eighth, and indeed of all the kings and queens since Ed- 
 
100 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 ward First. The monuments to public individuals, and 
 those who have distinguished themselves, are in the more 
 open part of the Abbey. Folios and quartos in abundance 
 have been filled with their history and illustration ; and to 
 these I must refer you for ' farther particulars.' 
 
 London, continued. 
 
 Zoological Gardens — Parks — West End — Military Review at 
 Woolwich — Thames Tunnel — English Country Fair at Green- 
 wich — General glance at the Great Metropolis. 
 
 Friday. — To-day I procured a nice little saddle-horse, 
 and took a ride round the parks — going up the gay and 
 splendid Regent-street and Portland Place, by the Colos. 
 seum, the Crescent, and the range of ' terraces,' fronting 
 Regent's Park. I stopped at the Zoological Gardens, which 
 cover several acres, and are admirably arranged. Besides 
 the immense collection of plants and flowers of almost all 
 species, fountains, etc., here are wild animals, quadrupeds, 
 birds, and amphybise, of many species which have never 
 been exhibited in our country, and you see them almost in 
 their natural state ; not chained up in cages and close rooms, 
 but allowed free air and exercise. Bears were climbing 
 poles ; and scores of water-birds were revelling in the luxu- 
 ries of a pond. There are more than two hundred different 
 
London: Zoological Gardens — Parks. 101 
 
 species of parrots, and all are together: what a 'clatter' 
 they make ' to be sure !' But the chief ' lions' at present, 
 are the beautiful Giraffes and their attending Arabs, recent- 
 ly arrived. Well, as I was saying, I made the circuit of 
 Regent's Park, and then rode down to Hyde Park, which 
 is smaller, but more frequented. Hyde Park Ccruer is fa- 
 mous all over the world. Nothing can exceed the gavety 
 and splendor of the scene on a fine afternoon, at this sea- 
 son — the superb equipages of the great, with the gold-laced 
 and crimson-velveted footmen — the ladies and gentlemen 
 on horseback in another path, and the pedestrians in a third, 
 — but all mingled in dashing confusion. I rode boldly in 
 among the best of them, and had a fine chance to inspect 
 the interior of the carriages, and the pretty faces of my lady 
 this, and the dutchess of that — for many of these great ladies 
 are really pretty — and with what exquisite neatness and 
 elegance some of them dress ! The ladies on horseback 
 invariably wear men's hats — literally, and without the least 
 alteration, except that a black veil is appended. Tin's is 
 the fashion at present. What a luxury these parks are, in 
 such a city as this ! To have a fine open space ol three 
 or four hundred acres, kept in the nicest order, with foot* 
 paths, and carriage-paths, groves and ponds, etc.. surround- 
 ed by a collection of palaces! I can well believe Willis's 
 remark, that the Wesl laid of Lonc'on is unequalled in Eu- 
 ro ie. One of Miss Edgeworth's heroes rescued a chdd 
 from drowning in 'the Scrpe.itine river.' When I read it, 
 the idea of a river, in what 1 imagined a httl park, soine- 
 9* 
 
102 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 what larger than Washington square, seemed laughable 
 enough ; but this Serpentine river is in this park, and might 
 drown the king, if he should fall into it. The Humane So- 
 ciety have a house and boats close by, to receive the luck- 
 less wights who get drowned. There is good fishing in the 
 river, and it looks fresh and clear, and it is delightful to ride 
 along its banks on a warm day. These parks, especially 
 Regent's, would make a large farm. They afford abundant 
 room for an airy ride or walk without going out of the city. 
 At Hyde Park Corner is Apsley House, the Duke of Wel- 
 lington's residence, and c'ose by is the colossal statue of 
 Achilles, cast from carnon taken in the Duke's battles, and 
 erected to commemorate them by \ his countrywomen.' 
 
 Last Saturday I took it into my head to go to Woolwich, 
 nine miles from London, to help the Prince of Orange re- 
 view the troops. By dint of active exertion, I attained a 
 seat on the deck of a bit of a steam- boat, loaded with two 
 hundred and fifty pleasure-seeking mortals like myself, while 
 as many more were left disconsolate on the wharf— inad- 
 missible. Off we went with the tiJe, under Westminster, 
 Waterloo, Blackfriars, Southwark, and London Bridges, 
 over Thames Tunnel, and between a multitude of ships and 
 steam-boats, large boats and small boats, rowed perhaps by 
 a Jacob Faithful, or his posterity, and following the serpen- 
 tine course of • Old Father Thames' through a beautiful 
 green meadow, passed Greenwich, and arrived at our ulti- 
 matum in good time to see the show. The prince was 
 dressed as a general, decorated with half a dozen badges 
 
Greenwich Fair — Thames Tunnel. 103 
 
 of different orders; and he galloped about the field in true 
 military style, accompanied by his two sons, and a squadron 
 of princes, dukes, lords, etc. They fired bombs, and had 
 a grand imitation battle, with horse artillery — in other 
 words, a sham fight, which was all vastly fine. Returning, 
 I walked to Greenwich, three miles, where is the Observa- 
 tory from which longitude is reckoned all over the world, 
 as the school-girls are well aware. The Observatory is on 
 a high, steep hill, in the centre of a large and beautiful park, 
 filled with hills and dales, deer, trees, ponds, and every thing 
 pretty. The prospect from the Observatory is superb. 
 London on the left — St. Paul's and a few spires only peep- 
 ing above the dun smoke — the Thames, winding about in 
 a zigzag direction, covered with the ' freighted argosies' of 
 all nations, some just arrived perhaps from the East Indies 
 or the North Pole — others destined for Botany Bay or 
 Nootka Sound ; beyond, the green hills and meadows ; and 
 at your feet this lovely park, and the noble hospital for sea- 
 men, on the banks of the river. It is a scene for a painter. 
 To-day I have ' done' Thames Tunnel, and laughed at 
 the humors of an English country fair, in the old fashioned 
 style, at Greenwich. The Tunnel is just like the pictures 
 of it. You have 1o descend as many steps to get to it as 
 would take you to a church steeple. I walked to the end 
 of this subterraneous cavern, where they were at work, 
 under the very centre of the river. Ugh ! Only to think 
 of being at the mercy of those frail brick arches, under the 
 very bed of a mighty river, on which the largest ships are 
 
104 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 moving over our heads! What i( they should come in 
 contact with the arches, at low water ! The whole place 
 would be instantly filled, and wo to the luckless wight who 
 happens to be in it ! In case of such an accident, there is 
 no chance of escape.* 
 
 The fair was amusing enough. The immense park I 
 have described was the principal scene, and thousands of 
 country beaux and lasses were cutting up all sorts of capers. 
 Some were running down the steep hills, with dangerous 
 velocity, and many a poor girl fell sprawling in the attempt. 
 Some, in groups, were listening to a strolling songster — 
 others looking through the telescopes and glasses, on the 
 beautiful landscape. Here and there a ring was formed, 
 in which the damsels challenged their swains, by throwing 
 a glove, and then scampering away. The favored one 
 gives chase, brings back the blushing fair one, and gives 
 her a kiss in the centre of the ring. There were many 
 very well dressed and passably pretty girls in the collec- 
 tion. I took place in the circle without ceremony, deter- 
 mined to make the best of the sport. It was marvellous 
 what a sensation I produced ! The girls threw the gaunt- 
 let as fast as I could overtake them, and merry chases they 
 were.j" 
 
 * A slight breach has since been made in the wcrks, but no lives 
 were lost. The tunnel is now completed beyond the deepest a>id dan- 
 gerous pai t of the river. There are two arches for passengers in each 
 direction, partly open to each other and lighted by gas. This underta- 
 king.! t is estimated, will cost about 85,C00.C00. 
 
 t I p esume our vilage damsels would scarcely take part in such 
 unfeminine amusements. 
 
Reminiscences. 105 
 
 You will recollect the funny meeting of goed 'King 
 Jamie' and Richard Moniplies in this same park, veritably 
 related in ' the Fortunes of Nigel.' The great Elizabeth 
 also kept her court in Greenwich, and it was from here to 
 Deptford that she went in a barge to visit the Earl of Sus- 
 sex ; which voyage I have just finished, but there is no 
 Sussex there now.* Speaking of Nigel, my lodgings in 
 Norfolk-street are in the near vicinity of the Temple and 
 the classical Alsatia, the ancient ' city of refuge,' or sanc- 
 tuary for delinquents ; but I doubt whether it would now 
 be a safe retreat from either court warrants or the police. 
 
 To-morrow I propose to leave for Scotland, and I shall 
 have something more to say of London, perhaps, on my re- 
 turn. Meanwhile, if you are not already versed in the pe- 
 culiarities, topography, and general appearance of London, 
 a recent work called the Great Metropolis, with a good 
 map, will picture the huge city before your mind's eye as 
 vividly as any thing short of a visit to it.f As you will 
 
 * See Kenilworlh. The inn where the scene of lhat splendid 
 romance opens at Cumnor, is yet used as such, but the sign had been 
 altered. When the novel was published, the Oxford students sent a 
 deputation to mite host at Cumnor, and persuaded him to reinstate the 
 original portraiture of 'the Bear.' The bishops Ridley and Latimer 
 were burnt in Broad-street, Oxford, and Antony Foster there acquired 
 his nickname by firing the faggots. 
 
 t The following extract from a review of this work in the North 
 American, ia so graphic and beautiful, that we cannot refrain from 
 copying it : 
 
 " We have an affection for a great city. We feel safe in the 
 neighborhood of man, and enjoy the 'sweet security of streets.' 
 
106 Memoranda in Europe in 183G. 
 
 easily imagine, there is every variety, from the palace to 
 the hovel, from St. James to Billingsgate; mud, smoke, 
 
 The excitement of the crowd is pleasant to us. We find sermons 
 in the stones of side-walks. In the continuous sound of voices, 
 and wheels, and footsteps, we hear ' the sad music of humanity.' 
 We feel that life is not a dream, but an earnest reality ; that the 
 beings around us are not the insects of a day, but the pilgrims of 
 an eternity ; they are our fellow creatures, each with his history 
 of thousand fold occurrences, insignificant it may be to us, but all- 
 important to himself; each with a human heart, whose fibres are 
 woven into the great web of human sympathies; and none so 
 small, that, when he dies, some of the mysterious meshes are not 
 broken. The green earth, and the air, and the sea, all living and 
 all lifeless things, preach unto us the gospel of a great and good 
 providence ; but most of all does man, in his crowded cities, and 
 in his manifold powers, and wants, and passions, and deeds, preach 
 this same gospel. He is the great evangelist. And though often- 
 times, unconscious of his mission, or reluctant to fulfil it, he leads 
 others astray, even then to the thoughtful mind he preaches. We 
 are in love with Nature, and mostof all with human nature. The 
 face of man is a benediction to us. The greatest works of his 
 handicraft delight us hardly less than the greatest works of Na- 
 ture. They are ' the masterpieces of her own masterpiece.' Ar- 
 chitecture, and painting, and sculpture, and music, and epic po- 
 ems, and all the forms of art, wherein the hand of genius is visi- 
 ble, please us evermore, for they conduct us into the fellowship of 
 great minds. And thus our sympathies are with men, and streets, 
 and city-gates, and towers from which the great b?Us sound sol- 
 emnly and slow, and cathedral doors, where venerable statues, 
 holding books in their hands, look down like sentinels upon the 
 church-going multitude, and the birds of the air come and build 
 
General View of the ' Great Metropolis.'' 107 
 
 fog, narrow lanes, and staiely terraces ; omnibuses, cabs, 
 boatmen, great men and rogues. 
 
 their nests in the arms of saints and apostles. And more than all 
 this, in great cities we learn to look the world in the face. We 
 shake hands with stern realities. We see ourselves in others. 
 We become acquainted with the motley, many-sided life of man ; 
 and finally learn, if we are wise, to ' look upon a metropolis as a 
 collection of villages ; a village as some blind alley in a metropo- 
 lis ; fame as the talk of neighbors at the street door ; a library as a 
 learned conversation ; joy as a second ; sorrow as a minute, life as 
 a day ; and three things as all in all, God, Creation, Vi rtue.'* 
 
 " Now of all cities is London the monarch. To us likewise is 
 it the Great Metropolis. We are not cockneys. We were born 
 on this side of the sea. Our family name is not recorded in the 
 Domesday Book. It is doubtful whether our ancestral tree was 
 planted so far back as the Conquest. Nor are we what Sir Philip 
 Sidney calls 'wry-transformed travellers.' We do not affect a 
 foreign air, nor resemble the merry Friar in the Canterbury Tales 
 of whom the Prologue says; 
 
 " Somewhat he lisped for his wantonnesse, 
 To make his English sweet upon his tongue," 
 
 Nevertheless to us likewise is London the monarch of cities. The 
 fact, that the English language is spoken in some parts of it, makes 
 us feel at home there, and gives us, as it were, the freedom of the 
 city. Even the associations of childhood connect us with it. We 
 remember it as far back as the happy days, when we loved nurse- 
 ry songs, and ' rode a-horscback on best father's knee.' Whit- 
 tington and his cat lived there. All our picture-books and our 
 sister's dolls came from there; and we thought, poor children! 
 that every body in London sold dolls and picture-books, as the 
 
 ♦ Jean Paul. 
 
108 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 country boy imagined that every body in Boston sold gingerbread, 
 because his father always brought some home from town on mar- 
 ket days. Since those times we have grown wiser. We have 
 been in Saint Paul's church-yard, and know by heart all the green 
 parks and quiet squares of London. And now, finally, for us, 
 grown-up children, appears the New London Cries, this book 
 of The Great Metropolis. 
 
 Forty-five miles westward from the North Sea, in the lap of a 
 broad and pleasant valley watered by the Thames, stands the Great 
 Metropolis, as all the world knows. It comprises the City of Lon- 
 don and its Liberties, with the City and Liberties of Wesiminster, 
 the Borough of South wark, and upwards of thirty contiguous vil- 
 lages of Middlesex and Surrey. East and west, its greatest length 
 is about eight miles; north and south, its greatest breadth about 
 five; its circumference from twenty to thirty. Its population 
 is estimated at two millions. The vast living tide goes thunder- 
 ing through its ten thousand streets in one unbroken roar. The 
 noise of the great thoroughfares is deafening. But you step aside 
 into a by -lane, and anon you emerge into little green squares half 
 filled with sunshine, half with shade, where no sound of living 
 thing is heard, save the voice of a bird or a child, and amid soli- 
 tude and silence you gaze in wonder at the great trees c growing 
 in the heart of a brick-and-mortar wilderness.' Then there are 
 the three parks, Hyde, Regent's, and St. James', where you may 
 lose yourself in green alleys, and dream you are in the country ; 
 Westminster Abbey, with its tombs and solemn cloisters, where 
 with the quaint George Herbert you may think that, ' when the 
 bells do chime, 'tis angels' music;' and high above all, half hid- 
 den in smoke and vapor, rises the dome of St. Paul's. 
 
 " These are a few of the more striking features of London. 
 More striking still is the Thames. Above the town, by Richmond 
 Hill and Twickenham, it winds through groves and meadows 
 green, a rural silver stream. The traveller who sees it here for 
 
London at Night. 109 
 
 the first time, can hardly believe that this is the mighty river 
 which bathes the feet of London. He asks perhaps the coachman, 
 what stream that is; and the coachman answers with a stare of 
 wonder and pity, 'The Terns, sir.' Pleasure boats are gliding 
 back and forth, and stately swans float, like water-lilies, on its bo- 
 som. On its banks are villages, and church towers, beneath 
 which, among the patriarchs of the hamlet, lie many gifted sons of 
 song, 
 
 11 In sepulchres unhearsed and green." 
 
 In and below London the whole scene is changed. Let us view 
 it by night. Lamps are gleaming along shore, and on the 
 bridges, and a full moon rising over the borough of Southwark. 
 The moonbeams silver the rippling, yellow tide, wherein also 
 flare the shore lamps, with a lambent, flickering gleam. Barges 
 and wherries move to and fro; and heavy-laden luggers are 
 sweeping up stream with the rising tide, swinging sideways, with 
 loose, flapping sails. Both sides of the river are crowded with 
 sea and river craft, whose black hulks lie in shadow, and whose 
 tapering masts rise up into the moonlight like a leafless forest. A 
 distant sound of music floats on the air ; a harp, and a flute, and a 
 horn. It has an unearthly sound ; and lo ! like a shooting star, a 
 light comes gliding on. It is the signal lamp at the mast-head of 
 a steam-vessel, that flits by like a cloud, above which glides a star. 
 And from all this scene goes up a sound of human voices — curses, 
 laughter, and singing — mingled with the monotonous roar of the 
 city, ' the clashing and careering streams of life, hurrying to lose 
 themselves in the impervious gloom of eternity.' And now the 
 midnight is past, and amid the general silence the clock strikes — 
 one, two. Far distant, from some belfry in the suburbs, comes the 
 first sound, so indistinct as hardly to be distinguished from the 
 crowing of a cock. Then close at hand the great bell of St. Paul's, 
 with a heavy, solemn sound — one, two. It is answered from 
 
 10 
 
110 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 8outhwark , then at a distance like an echo; and then all around 
 you, with various and intermingling clang, like a chime of bells, 
 the clocks from a hundred belfries strike the hour. But the moon 
 Is already sinking, large and fiery, through the vapors of morn- 
 ing. It is just in the range of the chimneys and house-tops, and 
 seems to follow you with speed, as you float down the river be- 
 tween unbroken ranks of ships. Day is dawning in the east, not 
 with a pale streak in the horizon, but with a silver light spread 
 through the sky, almost to the zenith. It is the mingling of moon- 
 light and daylight. The water is tinged with a green hue, melting 
 into purple and gold, like the brilliant scales of a fish. The air 
 grows cool. It comes fresh from the eastern sea, toward which 
 \Fe are swiftly gliding ; and dimly seen in the uncertain twilight, 
 behind you rises 
 
 "A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping, 
 
 Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye 
 Can reach ; with here and there a sail just skipping 
 
 In sight, then lost amid the forestry 
 Of masts ; a wilderness of steeples peeping 
 
 On tip-toe, through their sea-coal canopy; 
 A huge dun cupola, like a foolscap crown 
 On a fool's head— and there is London town. 
 
 Don Juan, Canto X. 
 
York Minster. Ill 
 
 VI. 
 
 VISIT TO SCOTLAND. 
 
 York Minster— Melrose Abbey — Abbolsford — Dryburgh. 
 
 York Minster. — I did not repent varying my route a 
 little to see the ancient city of York, and its noble cathe- 
 dral, unquestionably the finest gothic structure in Great 
 Britain, if not in the world. This grand edifice is five 
 hundred and twenty-four feet in length, and, of course, ex- 
 ceeds St. Paul's on this score ; but in other respects, they 
 can scarcely be compared, as the style of architecture ia 
 entirely different. It stands in bold relief above all the 
 rest of the town, albeit not on a rising ground. To use 
 the words of the book, it is like 'a mountain starting out of 
 a plain,* and thus attracting all the attention of the spec- 
 tator. The petty, humble dwellings of men appear to 
 crouch at its feet, while its own vastness and beauty im- 
 press the observer with awe and sublimity.' It dates its 
 origin as far back as A.D.G42 ;f but the present walls seem 
 to have been erected in the thirteenth or fourteenth century. 
 The screen and the choir particularly are elaborate and 
 exquisite specimens of the Gotlec style. It seems strange 
 
 * Rather morn like on elephant in the midst of a flock of sheep, 
 t In the crypt I was shown the elephant's tusk on which the firai 
 deed of the land was inscribed. 
 
112 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 to us, who make the most of our room, that they should only 
 use so small a portion of these cathedrals for what one 
 would suppose was their chief purpose — divine worship. 
 Service can only be held in what is called the ' choir,' an 
 inclosure near the centre of the church, which has seats 
 for perhaps from one hundred to two hundred persons. I 
 went in, during the evening prayers, and had an opportu- 
 nity of hearing the gigantic organ, accompanied by the 
 choir, in some fine anthems. The whole of the east wing 
 of the cathedral was fired in 1829, by Martin, a lunatic, 
 who secreted himself behind the organ during service, and 
 so thoroughly effected his purpose, that the whole interior, 
 including the choir, was destroyed. The great painted 
 glass window, seventy-five feet by thirty-two, (capable of 
 admitting a large three-story house,) was saved as if by a 
 miracle. It is remarkable, that the whole of this wing has 
 been restored, so precisely in the original form, as scarcely 
 to be suspected for a modern work. The architect was 
 Robert Smirke, Eoq. It is asserted by the knowing ones, 
 that a work of equal magnitude to York Cathedral could 
 not be performed at the present day, for ten millions of 
 dollars, nor in less time than fifty or even a hundred years. 
 
 Mklrose, June 6, 1836. — In the sanded parlor of' The 
 George,' where lodged in days of yore that industrious and 
 worthy antiquary, Captain Clutterbuck, I now date my 
 first epistle from the ' land o' cakes.' 
 
 The ride from Newcastle to the ' border,' over barren 
 moors and the Cheviot Hills, passing the scenes of * Chevy 
 
Scotland: Tevioldale. 11.3 
 
 Chace,' was cold and dreary. But, arrived in Teviotdale, 
 a change came over the face of things, ar.d ^or throe o? 
 four miles near Jedburgh, there is a series of lovely pasto- 
 ral landscapes. Swiss scenery may be more wild and 
 majestic, but it cannot surpass in quiet beauty this charm- 
 ing region about the Tweed — rendered so interesting, too, 
 by its 'classical associations,' as some tourist sagely said 
 of Rom j. Here, within the space of fifteen miles, aro 
 Melrose, Dry burgh, and Jedburgh Abbeys, Abbottsford, 
 the Eildon Hills, the scenes of the Monastery, the Lay oF 
 the Last Minstrel, and of songs and romances innumer- 
 able. 
 
 Melrose is situated in a delightful vale of the Tweed, 
 environed on three sides by verdant hills, and flanked by 
 the gloomy, heath. covered peaks of the Eildon, which 
 seem to rise directly in the rear of the village ; but I had 
 to walk nearly two miles to the base of them, and the- 
 ascent was an afternoon's work. The wind was so strong 
 at the top, that 1 really feared being blown off". On the 
 summit are the remains of a fortification, chronicled in tho 
 books as a Roman prrctorium, and I saw no Edie Ochil- 
 tree to exclaim, ' I mind the bigging of u.' The view 
 from the top is worth the ascent. It extends twenty or 
 thirty miles on each side, and takes in the cream of tho 
 region so familiar to Scott and his readers. Tho path 1*3 
 across a rocky glen, where a 'stream is gently laving/ 
 and through a grove to ' the mountain's brow,' where tho 
 sheep are gently grazing ! 
 
 10* 
 
114 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Evening. — At dusk, I went alone to * the ruins gray' 
 of 'fair Melrose.' The cicerone, (a son of the 'honest 
 Johnny Bower,' who escorted Mr. Irving there.) has the 
 history of the Abbey and the Lay of the Last Minstrel all 
 by heart ; and he repeated several passages fluently and 
 feelingly, as he guided me through the ruins. We stood 
 on the tomb of Michael Scott, which William of Deloraine 
 so valorously explored at midnight. A ' wizard figure' 
 is carved on it. We trod on the graves of the Douglas 
 and of the heart of the Bruce. One window only remains 
 entire ; indeed the whole of this once splendid fabric is in 
 ruins ; but the very ruins are beautiful; they are just in 
 the state to be most interesting ; and the specimens of 
 ornamental slone work which yet survive, are the admira- 
 tion of those skilled in such matters. The sculptured hand 
 holding a boquet, is, as Lockhart remarks, most exquisite. 
 It is wonderful to me, that so much perfection and taste in 
 architecture should have existed at the time these cathe- 
 drals and abbeys were built. It would be difficult in these 
 days even to raise the funds for an edifice of this extent 
 and magnificence. 
 
 I was not sure, until my guide told me, that Melrose 
 was * the Monastery' of the novel. Here, then, Abbott 
 Boniface, Father Eustace, and their two hundred ' breth- 
 ren,' counted their beads, and feasted on venison. A mile 
 distant, is the bridge over the Tweed, and the place where 
 the ' white lady' frightened the Sacristan. Glendearg is 
 three miles farther, near the ' banks of Allan Water.' 
 
Melrose Abbey. 115 
 
 Midnight. — In order to be in the fashion, I have just 
 been ai^ain to see 
 
 ■' Fair Melrose aright, 
 
 By the pale moonlight,'* 
 
 or rather by starlight, for there is no moon now. It is 
 truly an excellent time for visiting such a place. I was 
 quite alone, and all was still as death. Not even 
 
 " The distant Tweed was heard to rave, 
 Or the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave." 
 
 The flapping of the night-birds' wings on the towers was 
 the only sound. I walked round the venerable pile, 
 (which is now almost obscured, on the village side, by a 
 cluster of unromantic cottages.) and found myself in the 
 grave-yard, under the noble oriel window of the chancel. 
 A fine scene and hour is this for a believer in ghosts ! But 
 what a place it is to cogitate in ! 
 
 Tuesday. — I have spent the whole forenoon at Abbotts- 
 ford ! Is not that saying enough ? It is easy to under- 
 stand the feeling which prompts one to say nothing, when 
 it is so impossible to express the thrilling delight or the 
 thousand associations which a place like this calls up. 
 But there is no place like this. It is unique in its situa- 
 tion and beauty ; it stands alone, in every point of view ; 
 a hallowed shrine, to pilgrims of all nations, for ages to 
 come. 
 
 It was a fine clear morning — the air as bracing and 
 
 * I was told that Scott himself never saw Melrose hy moonlight. 
 lie had a moonlight picture of it, which I saw at Abbottsford. 
 
116 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 pure as that of our favorite Brattleboro', (Vt.) a place 
 which Melrose resembles somewhat in its situation and 
 appearance. * * * * I set off after breakfast, and had a 
 charming ride of two miles over the hills and dales which 
 the poet was wont to frequent, the Tweed being now and 
 then in view, until the turrets of the house, or castle, as 
 you please, are distinguishable amidst a grove, near the 
 banks of the river. The building is then lost sight of, 
 until you arrive at the very gate — or as a Frenchman 
 says, vous tombez sur le chateau, which is approached 
 by a circular carriage-path through the grove. The 
 arched gateway is very handsome, and is substantially 
 built, as is the whole edifice, of a native gray stone. The 
 house cannot be mistaken ; the architecture is so quaint 
 and unique, and yet, on the whole, so pretty and even im- 
 posing, and the pictures of it are so accurate, that it 
 looked quite familiar. I was admitted by the solitary ten- 
 ant, who acts as housekeeper and cicerone, for the remain- 
 der of the family are now scattered abroad. The entrance 
 hall carries you back, as it were, to the days of chivalry : 
 it is just such a place as you would suppose the author of 
 * Maim ion' and * Ivanhoe' would contrive. Blazoned 
 shields and armor of the knights of old ; gothic windows 
 of painted glass, and curiosities and relics innumerable, are 
 arranged in this ' most picturesque of apartments.' Thence 
 crossing a vestibule, in which are figures of 4 grim warriors 
 in armor,' I found myself in the study — the sanctum sanc- 
 torum of the ' author of Waverley,' and in the very chair 
 in which he wrote. The books and furniture in this and 
 
Abbottsford. 117 
 
 the other apartments remain in statu quo as the poet left 
 them. There is a melancholy air about these now silent 
 and deserted halls which every one must feel : even the 
 cicerone seemed impressed with it. As an Edinburgh lady, 
 of a party here with me, remarked : * How differently one 
 regards this and Newstead ! There we may be interested, 
 but here, every thing is venerated. Scott left no poison 
 for his fellow 4 men : his works may be read by old and 
 young, both with pleasure and profit.' 
 
 Adjoining the study is a closet in the northwest tower, 
 where is preserved the last coat Scott wore, together with 
 his arms, swords, etc., neatly arranged. Next, we enter 
 the library, the largest and most splendid apartment, where, 
 with other things elsewhere described, is a fine bust of 
 Scott, by Chantrey — the best likeness, it is said, ever 
 taken. I should like to spend a month in that library. 
 What treasures there are on those shelves! — the rarest 
 and choicest gems of the bibliographer, and presentation, 
 copies from authors, all over the world, for the last thirty 
 years. We proceeded to the drawing-room, which con- 
 tains some beautiful ebony chairs, presented to Sco;t by 
 George IV. ; a copy of the Warwick Vase, and some fine 
 paintings ; next, to the breakfast-room, looking toward 
 the Tweed on one side, and the Yarrow and Ettrick, 
 famed in song, on the other. Here are beautiful drawings 
 by Turner and Thompson, a fine oil painting of Wolfe's 
 Craig, (Bride of Lammcrmoor,) etc. Then we passed to 
 the dining-room, where are several fine pictures, and to 
 Miss Anne Scott's room, as it was when she died. The 
 
118 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 book-cases in it are filled chiefly with poetry and ro- 
 mances. In the armory I saw Rob Roy's gun, and had 
 my hand in his purse ; Bonaparte's pistols, taken at Water- 
 loo ; IJofer's blunderbuss ; the work-box of Mary, queen 
 of Scots, and many similar rare matters, all tastefully 
 arranged and labelled. Most of the furniture, and the 
 ceiling in the various rooms, are of rich carved oak, for 
 which Scott seems to have had a particular fancy. I was 
 taken, by special favor, to the chambers, in all of which 
 are curious and interesting paintings. Indeed, every part 
 of this abode of romance is a museum in itself, and every 
 article has a legend or a history. Miss Scott's bed-room 
 looks into the front inclosure, but Sir Walter's commands 
 the Tweed and landscape for several miles. In the dress- 
 ing-room of the latter, is a curious old oaken cabinet, con- 
 taining human skulls, among others Michael Scott's, taken 
 from his tomb in the Abbey. I explored every room up 
 stairs and down, and most of them twice. It is idle, how- 
 ever, to attempt giving an account of all I was shown — 
 such as Ralph Erskine's pulpit ; a chair made of the wood 
 of the house where Sir William Wallace was betrayed, 
 with an inscription to Scott; a lion-skin sent from Africa ; 
 bamboo from India ; the keys and door of the Tolbooth, 
 (' Heart of Mid-Lothian ; ; ) ancient armor, swords, etc. ; 
 the urn containing bones brought from Greece, and pre- 
 sented to Scott by Loid Byron, when he repented of the 
 sweeping attack in the English Bards, and courted the 
 friendship of his great contemporary. The letter accom- 
 panying this gift was affixed to it in the library, and stolen 
 
Dryburgh Abbey. 119 
 
 by a guest! — a theft as silly as it was outrageous. It 
 would take months to examine every thing to one's satis- 
 faction ki this intensely interesting spot. The gardens, 
 grounds, walks, etc., are beautiful exceedingly, and made 
 so entirely, it is said, by the late proprietor — the site being, 
 twenty years ago, barren and uninviting. 1 took leave 
 reluctantly, and with feelings which those who have been 
 there only know. The only relic I could obtain, was a 
 twig or two from the bush under the study window. 
 
 Having seen Abbottsford, it is meet that one should 
 visit Dryburgh. Abbey. This picturesque ruin is much 
 more beautifully situated than Melrosa, being in a retired 
 and lovely spot, on the banks of the river, in the midst of 
 gardens and groves of trees, and thus obscured, like Ab- 
 bottsford, until you tumble upon it. It is covered with ivy, 
 and is in a state to please the most romantic. The ruin9 
 are scattered over several acres, and show that the Abbey 
 must have been immensely large, and the architecture 
 very noble, though not so rich and delicate as Melrose. 
 St. Mary's aisle is now covered with turf. Scott sleeps in 
 a retired corner, near the graves of his wife and his ances- 
 tors, the Haliburtons. The arch above the grave is repre- 
 sented in the pictures, but as yet there is no monument or 
 stone ' to mark the spot.' Do you recollect Scott's own 
 lines in the fifth canto of the Lay of the Last Minstrel ? 
 
 "Call it not vain ; they do not err, 
 Who say that when the poet dies, 
 Mute Nature mourns her worshipper, 
 And celebrates his obsequies : 
 
120 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Who say tall c iff and cavern lone 
 For the departed bard make moan ; 
 That mountains weep in crystal rill, 
 That flowers in tears of halm distil ; 
 Through his loved groves, that breezes sigh, 
 And oaks in deeper groan reply : 
 And rivers teach their rushing wave 
 To murmur dirges round his grave. 
 
 "Not that in sooth o'er mortal urn, 
 Those things inanimate can mourn, 
 But that the stream, the wood, the gale, 
 Is vocal with the plaintive wail 
 Of those who, else forgotton long, 
 Lived in the poet's faithful song ; 
 And with the poet's parting breath, 
 Whose memory feels a second death. 
 The maid's pale shade who wails her lot, 
 That love, true love, should be forgot, 
 From rose and hawthorn shakes the tear 
 Upon the gentle minstrel's bier. 
 The phantom knight, his glory fled, 
 Mourns o'er the field he heap'd with dead: 
 Mounts the wild blast that sweeps amain, 
 And shrieks along the battle plain. 
 The chief whose antique crownlet long 
 Still sparkled in the feudal song, 
 Now from the mountain's misty throne 
 Sees in thethanedom once his own 
 His ashes undistinguished lie, 
 His place, his power, his memory die ; 
 His groans the lonely caverns fill, 
 His tears of rage impel the rill : 
 AH mourn the minstrel's harp unstrung, 
 Their names unknown, their praise unsung." 
 
 How strikingly appropriate seem these lines, as one 
 stands on the spot where the minstrel that shall strike the 
 lyre no more, is mouldering to dust ! 
 
 Two miles above Dryburgh, are the ruins of Smaill- 
 
Dryburgh. 121 
 
 holme Tower, where Scott spent his boyhood ; the scene 
 of his ballad, ' The Eve of St. John,' and the Avenel Cas- 
 tle of « The Monastery.' 
 
 The same party I met at Abbottsford had preceded 
 me to Dryburgh. A young lady — a very pretty one — 
 climbed with me to the top of one of the highest tottering 
 towers, which threatened to tumble over with us, some 
 hundred feet or so. As we returned toward the ' Temple 
 of the Muses,' a pretty bower on the grounds, we met Sir 
 George Ascot, son of the late Earl of Buchan, and propri- 
 etor of the Abbey and its vicinity. He stopped and tipped 
 his beaver very courteously, * hoped every attention had 
 been paid to us at the Abbey,' inquired if we noticed this 
 and that part, and especially the busts of eminent charac- 
 ters, an eccentric collection made by the earl, in one of the 
 remaining halls. His residence is near the ruins, and he 
 has built a picturesque suspension-bridge across the Tweed 
 from his estate. The river is fordable, however, in most 
 places, and clear as crystal, the pebbly bottom being easily 
 seen, even from a distance. 
 
 11 
 
122 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 VII. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 Edinburgh — Calton-hill — Castle, etc. — Scott — Sir D. Bretoster — 
 Holyrood — Jeffrey — Slavery — Excursion to Roslyn, Dalkeith, 
 etc. — High Church — Politics — Effect of Scott's Works on Scot- 
 land. 
 
 Edinburgh, Wednesday evening. — Had a fine ride 
 from Melrose. Set off at ten, crossed the bridge just 
 above Abbottsford, took a last farewell of that ' romance 
 in stone and lime,' and for twenty miles kept along the 
 banks of Gala Water, (a nice little brook for trout,) 
 enjoying a variety of pretty views. Twelve miles from 
 Edinburgh, the dim outline of Arthur's Seat is discovered, 
 above the nearer hills. The environs are level and highly 
 cultivated. We passed several noble mansions, among 
 others Dalhousie Castle, At a turn of the road, the city 
 suddenly comes in view, and a splendid view it is. On 
 the right, the Frith of Forth, studded with sails and steam- 
 boats ; Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags flank the city 
 on the north-east, and its strong hold, the castle, on the 
 opposite side. Beyond, rises Calton-Hill, and its noble 
 monuments. Nothing can be more imposing than the 
 approach to Edinburgh, We entered a fine street of neat 
 modern houses, of stone, shaded with trees, crossed the 
 bridge over the gulf between the old and new towns, 
 
Edinburgh: Calton-hill — Castle. 123 
 
 turned into Princes-street, and were set down before the 
 granite buildings of Waterloo-Place. 
 
 Walked up Calton-Hill. The splendor of the prospect 
 in which one here revels, cannot be imagined. It is said 
 to be unequalled in Europe, even by the glorious view of 
 the Bay of Naples. Appropriately is Edinburgh styled 
 the modern Athens ; it is at least very like my ideal of 
 the ancient ) and, as if to heighten the resemblance, they 
 are building on the top of this model of Mars'-Hill a 
 superb monumental temple, copied from the Acropolis. 
 The massive Doric pillars of the front portico only are 
 finished, and from a distance they look like the ruins of 
 the Parthenon. The view from this eminence on all sides, 
 is rich and varied. No combination of nature and art 
 could produce a more magnificent panorama. 
 
 It was sunset when I went up to the Castle — the 
 scene of so many chivalrous exploits. Passing three or 
 four 'outward walls,' on which no * banner' of defiance 
 was now waving, the sentinels admitted me to the battle- 
 ments. From these there is another extensive and inter- 
 esting prospect. The interior of the castle is very queerly 
 constructed. The towers, batteries, and barracks rise one 
 above another, till you almost despair of reaching the 
 highest. At nine, the band perambulated the whole, play- 
 ing the evening salute. The fortress is at present garri- 
 soned by the ' Royal Highlanders,' and I met them at 
 every turn in the street, with their ponderous bushy black 
 caps, plaid kilts, bare knees, and buskins, as in the days of 
 Rob Roy and Fergus Mclvor. 
 
124 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 At the foot of the castle, looking up, it appears like a 
 mere cap on the head of a giant mountain of rock ; but 
 when you get up to the cap, lo ! it covers seven acres, and 
 contains a little village of barracks and ramparts. There 
 is a big gun in the yard, nine feet in circumference, and 
 twenty feet long — which is called Mons Meg, and thereby 
 hangs a tale. The ancient Scottish regalia is exhibited 
 in one of the rooms of the castle. Going down High-street, 
 there was a crowd around a zealous itinerant preacher, 
 who was holding forth somewhat in the Muckleraith strain. 
 I saw announced, in glaring letters, a Panorama of Jeru- 
 salem and of New. York ! and HerschePs Wonderful Dis- 
 coveries in the Moon, which I found were really believed, 
 with credulous simplicity, by many in this city of science, 
 twelve months after that ingenious hoax had been invented 
 and laughed over in New- York. 
 
 Friday, 10th. Called on Mr. W , an intimate 
 
 friend of Sir Walter Scott's, of whom he had much to tell 
 me. * No man,' he observed, ' could have worn his hon- 
 ors so meekly. Unassuming to all, he never affected lite- 
 rary character or distinction. He had always at command 
 an exhaustless fund of anecdote and humor, and made 
 every one about him feel quite at home, and at their ease. 
 His principles of honor were worthy of imitation. In- 
 volved largely in debt, by unforeseen circumstances, for 
 which he could not be blamed, he labored night and day, 
 at his advanced age, at the drudgery of revising the new 
 edition of his works, from the profits of which, his own 
 share being 67,000/., he honorably paid every penny ; but 
 
Scott — Brewster — Knox — etc. 125 
 
 the exertion cost him his life. The present publisher of 
 his works has also himself amassed from them a handsome 
 fortune. 
 
 Having a packet to deliver to the celebrated Sir David 
 Bkewsteb., I called at his lodgings in Dundas-street. The 
 worthy and learned knight, who is well known as the 
 editor of the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, and one of the 
 ablest scientific writers of the age, is a good-looking man, 
 about fifty ; his hair being quite white, he looks older. 
 He speaks with a slight Scotch accent, and his manners 
 are quiet, easy, and gentlemanly. He received me very 
 kindly, suggested the best tours, and gave me an introduc- 
 tion to an antiquarian gentleman of Perth, an order for 
 the Royal Institution, etc. He is said to be very retiring, 
 and even bashful, in public. 
 
 Among other curious things, 1 passed to.day the 
 house where John Knox lived, in High-street. It has a 
 projecting window, from which he used to preach to the 
 populace. His rooms are now used for a barber's shop. 
 
 You have seen pictures of this same High-street, and 
 the other parts of the old town, and are aware that many 
 of the buildings are from seven to eleven stories high. 
 They are of dark coloured stone, and have a gloomy 
 aspect. The upper stories were formerly considered the 
 most genteel and fashionable for the drawing-rooms of the 
 wealthy, and the lower floors were usually occupied by 
 the poorer classes ! How changeable is this arbitrary 
 dame Fashion ! You will suppose I was little interested 
 even in the printing office of the Waverley Novels. It is 
 11* 
 
126 Memoranda in Europe in 1886. 
 
 in the Canongate, a continuation of High. street, toward 
 Holyrood palace. The old Tolbooth is now no more : it 
 stood near the Parliament square. 
 
 After a walk through the splendid streets, squares, and 
 gardens of the ' new town,' with an admiring glance at 
 the classic taste of the Grecian ' Institution,' and at the 
 noble University ; with a visit to the blood-stained apart- 
 ments of Mary and Darnley, and the hall where Prince 
 Charlie gave balls and kept court at Holyrood, with its 
 one hundred and thirty-one portraits of Scottish kings, 
 back to three hundred and thirty years before Christ, 
 including Macbeth, Duncan, etc., all painted at the same 
 time ! I proceeded to the old Parliament House, now 
 fitted up for the courts of law. The hall where the Scot- 
 tish parliament assembled, is very large, and has a curious 
 oak ceiling, It is now a sort of public ' 'change' for ' limbs 
 of the law 1 and their clients. The advocates, and ' wri- 
 ters to the signet,' alias attorneys, were pacing about, or 
 reclining on the benches, talking to their customers. 
 Adjoining this hall, are the minor courts, in small rooms, 
 where causes are decided by single judges without juries ; 
 but from their decisions appeal can be made to the general 
 court, where all these judges officiate together with a jury. 
 On one of the doors was inscribed ' Lord Jeffrey,' — and 
 stepping in, I was fortunate enough to see on the bench, 
 in his wig and red gown, this celebrated character, for 
 many years editor of the Edinburgh Review, and exerting 
 more influence on the literature of the day than any other 
 person living. His famous critique on Byron's Hours of 
 
Holy rood — Jeffrey — Slavery. 127 
 
 Idleness, which called forth the biting satire of English 
 bards, contributed, no doubt, to make Byron a poet. Jef- 
 frey's physiognomy indicates all the acutcness, penetration, 
 and ability, for which he is distinguished. His very glance 
 is enough to silence all duplicity and prevarication. He 
 sifted the argument of the pleader in a cool, business-like 
 style, worthy of his station. 
 
 Dined with Mr. . No visiter here from the Uni- 
 ted States, escapes an attack on the subject of Slavery. 
 Mr. Thompson has made us all appear such cruel brutes 
 to the poor blacks, that the kind-hearted Scotchmen have 
 taken up the matter with the warmest and most disinter- 
 ested benevolence, and think they are called upon to move 
 in their behalf. They seem to marvel greatly that we 
 should not consider the blacks quite on an equality with 
 ourselves ; and when they have one here, which is but 
 rarely, they treat him with all sorts of respect and atten- 
 tion — give him dinnerparties, and escort him about in their 
 carriages.* 
 
 I had an opportunity of seeing the appurtenances of a 
 city dwelling-house of the better class, which, in many 
 respects, would be a model for our builders. Every tiling 
 seems intended for use and comfort, rather than for mere show, 
 in the residences of the trading classes of England and 
 Scotland. The buildings arc substantial, the walls varying 
 from eighteen to thirty inches in thickness. The walls of 
 
 * I was told of several such instances— though perhaps they occur- 
 red under peculiar circumstances. 
 
128 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 some of the old castles are from five to even nine feet 
 thick. They were not designed to tumble down, as an 
 Irishman would say, before they were up. Hence the 
 reason why fires are here so unfrequent, and so easily sub- 
 dued. I was in London three months, and had not a sin- 
 gle opportunity of seeing a fire, and only one of seeing a 
 fire-engine. There is evidently much less destruction per 
 annum by the devouring element, in all that vast metropolis, 
 than there is on an average in New- York. Insurance in 
 London costs next to nothing. 
 
 Saturday, — Rusticated a little, over to Roslyn, etc. 
 Stepped into a rail-road car at St. Leonard's Hill, where a 
 Jeannie Deans was spreading her newly^washed linens on 
 the grass ; passed the ruins of Craigmuller Castle, and the 
 seat of the wealthy Marquis of Abercorn, and in twenty 
 minutes was at Dalkeith, where I stopped to see the beau- 
 tiful and extensive parks, gardens, and palace, of the 
 Scottish Croesus, the Duke of Buccleugh — the Walter 
 Scott, at the request of whose mother, a greater man of 
 the same name wrote the ' Lay of the Last Minstrel.' The 
 parks, inclosed with the palace, cover eight hundred acres, 
 in a picturesque spot ; the rivers North and South Esk 
 both flowing, or rather tumbling in water-falls, through the 
 centre. Near their banks in a grove, and 'far removed 
 from toil and strife,' is a rustic bovver, in a capital place 
 for students or rhymsters, or philosophers of the school of 
 Jacques, who read the brooks and trees. From thence, 
 passing through Springfield, (where there is a paper-mill, 
 
Environs of Edinburgh. 129 
 
 but not Ames',) I walked seven miles to Hawthornden, the 
 seat of Drummond the poet, and now occupied by his des- 
 cendant. 
 
 " Who knows not Melville's beechy grove, 
 And Roslyn's rocky glen : 
 Dalkeith, which all the virtues love, 
 And classic Hawthornden?" 
 
 It was here that Ben Johnson came on foot from Lon- 
 don, to visit his brother bard. It is on the banks of the 
 Esk, in a romantic and beautiful situation. From the 
 rear of the house, there is a private walk along the lofty, 
 fir-covered, and picturesque banks of the river, to Roslyn 
 chapel and castle : 
 
 " Sweet are the streams, oh passing sweet ! 
 By Esk's fair banks that run ; 
 O'er airy steep, by copsewood deep, 
 Impervious to the sun." 
 
 This chapel is another of those fine ancient ruins with 
 which Scotland abounds. It is remarkable, that so costly 
 and elaborate an edifice should have been erected as a pri- 
 vate chapel to a single baronial establishment. The castle 
 is also in ruins — very little of it being left ; but the views 
 from its site are very pretty. A mile or two below, is 
 Woodhouslee, the seat of the late A. Fraser Tytler, (cre- 
 ated Lord Woodhouslee,) author of ' Universal History.' 
 Above is Melville Castle, Newcastle-Abbey, and Dalhousie 
 Castle. Scott's cottage of Lasswade, it will be remem- 
 bered, was on the banks of the Esk. 
 
 Sunday, June 12. — Wont to the High Church of St. 
 Giles, where the ' authorities' attend officially. The 
 
130 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 preacher was Dr. Gordon, an elderly man, considered, 
 was told, next to Dr. Chalmers as a pulpit orator and the- 
 ologian. They have no organ, and the church, as well as 
 the service, in strong contrast to the imposing splendor 
 of the English cathedrals, is as plain as the most zealous 
 puritan could wish. They use the quaint old Scotch ver- 
 sion of the psalms, and sing, sitting, the real old-fashioned 
 1 down-east' tunes. The « Magistrates/ alias the Common 
 Council of the city, with the Lord Provost, occupy the 
 front gallery seat, near the pulpit, on one side, and on the 
 other, are the judges and chief justice. Jeffrey was not 
 among them ; I presume he escapes to the Episcopal 
 church. The ' Magistrates' wear crimsoned robes, and 
 three-cornered caps, and are escorted to and from the 
 church in procession, by men in uniform, with lances, and 
 two in black, who bear the sword and the mace. Before 
 taking their seats, the magistrates and judges bow to each 
 other, as if to intimate the harmony between the makers 
 and executors of the laws. 
 
 Afternoon. — Attended St. John's Episcopal Church. 
 The building is very handsome, the singing and organ very 
 
 fine, and the preaching very dull. Dined with Mr. M . 
 
 It is remarkable how many of the middle classes, even of 
 the mechanics and tradesmen, in England and Scotland, 
 support the tory principles. I had supposed the tories 
 were only found among the wealthy and the nobility ; but 
 this is a great error. O'Connell and his measures are 
 denounced, even by the majority of the Whigs. None but 
 the ultraradicals ' go the whole figure' in reform, with 
 
Scotland' *s Benefactor. 131 
 
 him. It is singular, too, that so few of the intelligent people 
 have seen their own fine scenery and curiosities. I asked 
 a young lady here, who had painted a view from the 
 ' Lady of the Lake,' if she had been to Loch Katrine. 
 1 Oh, no !' she replied, in a tone which implied that such 
 an expedition would be considered quite uncommon. 
 They would think as much of it as we should of going to 
 Ohio. 
 
 When ' The Lady' first appeared, the continent was 
 blockaded by the armies of Napoleon ; so that English 
 tourists, now first hearing of the romantic scenery painted 
 in this poem, were attracted in swarms to Scotland. What 
 a benefactor was Scott to his country ! The good she 
 will derive from his works, for centuries to come, is incal- 
 culable. It is already felt in every part of the land. 
 New roads, hotels, and even villages, have sprung up in 
 hitherto solitary places among the hills and valleys of 
 which he has written, supported almost entirely by 
 inquiring visiters from every quarter of the civilized 
 world. 
 
132 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 Tour to the Highlands— Lochlcv en — Perth — Dundee — Dr. Dick — 
 Palace of Scone — Dunkeld — Ossian's Hall — Stirling Castle — 
 Bannockburn — Ride to the Trosachs. 
 
 Tuesday, June 15. — At 7 o'clock, on a fine morning, I 
 left Edinburgh for the lakes and highlands. My route for 
 the day was the same as that of the Antiquary and Love!.* 
 The coach, however, was much more prompt than in the 
 days of Mrs. Macleuchar, and started off while the clock 
 of St, Giles was striking, from Waterloo-place instead of 
 High-street. Arrived at Queensferry, seven miles, after a 
 beautiful ride, modern improvements were again visible ; 
 for, instead of waiting for the tide, as did Oldbuck and his 
 friend, we drove down a stone pier, at the end of which the 
 water is always deep enough, and transferring our lug- 
 gage and ourselves to a sail-boat, just sufficiently large to 
 contain the coach's company, guard and coachee included, 
 the canvass was spread, and in a few minutes we were at 
 North Queensferry, on the other side of the Frith of Forth. 
 Here we breakfasted ; the landlord, who could produce a 
 dinner ' peremtorie,' has been succeeded by one who has it 
 already on the table at the moment the coach drives up. 
 
 The ride from this place to Kinross is not particularly 
 
 * See 'The Antiquary,' by Scott. 
 
Lochleven Castle. 133 
 
 interesting ; neither is the scenery around Loch-Leven. I 
 stopped, however, of course, at the village, and walking 
 down to the lake, over some marshy flats, made a bargain 
 with a couple of fellows to row me over to the castle, on 
 the same side from which Queen Mary escaped. There is 
 a boat, it seems, kept by the cicerone of the place, who 
 charges five shillings sterling to each visiter — a great im- 
 position. My men had to keep out of sight, lest they 
 should be fined for trespass ! The whole lake is owned 
 by one person — Lord Somebody, who leases the privilege 
 of angling in it, for 500/. per annum, and the lessee charges 
 a guinea per day for sub-privileges ! It abounds with fine 
 trout. The castle, which is quite a ruin, only one tower 
 remaining entire, looks more like a prison than a place of 
 residence. 
 
 "No more its arches echo to the noise 
 Of joy and festive mirth ; no more the glance 
 Of blazing taper through its window beams, 
 And quivers on the undulating wave : 
 But naked stand the melancholy walls, 
 Lashed by the wintry tempests, cold and bleak, 
 Which whistle mournfully through the empty halls, 
 And piecemeal crumble down the tower to dust." 
 
 The door of the chamber pointed out as Queen Mary's 
 is not more than four feet high, so that you have to stoop 
 in entering it. The gate through which she escaped with 
 Douglas, is on the opposite side of the castle from her 
 apartments, and not the usual place for leaving the island. 
 The spot where she landed is yet called Queen Mary's 
 Knoll.* 
 
 See ' The Abbott,' by Scott. 
 12 
 
134 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 After leaving Kinross, there is some fine sceneiy, par- 
 ticularly near Perth, where I arrived about half-past two. 
 It is a large and handsome town, on the banks of the Tay. 
 In my first walk through it, I noticed, as rather singular, 
 a number of' fair maids.' There is one, however, an inn- 
 keeper's daughter, who seems to bear the palm, and is dis- 
 tinguished, I was told, par excellence, as ' The Fair Maid 
 of Perth.' I saw several vessels, coaches, etc., thus 
 named ; and yet I could not find in the whole town a sin- 
 gle copy of Scott's novel ! Wandering down to the river, I 
 6aw a steamboat just starting for Dundee,* twenty-two miles' 
 eail on the beautiful river and frith of Tay, and the fare 
 nine-pence ! So, not being very particular in my destina- 
 tion, I jumped on board, and was off in a trice, without my 
 dinner, which 1 had ordered at the hotel. The trip was 
 very pleasant, for it was a lovely day ; and at six o'clock 
 I dined in the best style, on ' three courses and a dessert,' 
 in a handsome parlor, at the Royal Hotel, Dundee, for two 
 shillings — the cheapest dinner and trip I have had in His 
 Majesty's dominions. Dundee is a very large and flour- 
 ishing place, and carries on more trade and commerce than 
 any other town in Scotland, Glasgow perhaps excepted. 
 It is admirably situated, and has quite a city-like appear- 
 ance. The docks would be an honor to New- York. 
 After dinner, I walked out to Broughty Ferry, four miles, 
 along the banks of the Frith, to call on Dr. Dick, the au- 
 thor of the Christian Philosopher, and several other very 
 
 * The ' Fan-port' of the ■ Antiquary.' Within the last twelve years 
 it has doubled in size and importance. 
 
Perth— Dundee— Dr. Dick. 135 
 
 able and popular works. He has a little of the pedagogue 
 in his appearance and conversation, but seems to be a very 
 plain, kind-hearted man. He is very much interested in 
 our country and its literature, and had many questions to 
 ask respecting his American correspondents. He thinks 
 we are far before Great Britain on the score of education ; 
 and says that such a work as Burritt's Astronomy would 
 be quite too deep and scientific to be used in schools there. 
 Of course, he touched upon slavery. He did not under- 
 stand why the blacks should not be admitted into society 
 and considered as equals in intellect with the whites ! In 
 the little attic room, are a variety of scientific instruments, 
 orreries, etc. Among the books were his last one, • The 
 Mental Illumination and Moral Improvement of Mankind,' 
 English and American editions- After tea, it being ten 
 o'clock, and yet light enough in this northern latitude to 
 read without a candle, the doctor kindly escorted me nearly 
 three miles on my way back to Dundee. 
 
 Thursday morning, at six o'clock, I mounted a coach 
 returning to Perth, with a fine clear sky, and the warmest 
 day I have experienced in Britain. The road is along the 
 banks of the Tay, and is very quiet and pleasant, passing 
 several splendid seats ; among them Kinfauns Castle, (Lord 
 Gray,) in the midst of a grove on an elevation, fronting tho 
 water. Near this, on the banks, are found fine onyxes, 
 cornelians, and agates. There is a handsome stone bridge 
 over the Tay at Perth. This is a lovely river, the current 
 being very swift, and the water deep, clear, and dark. 
 After breakfast, I walked two miles along the banks north 
 
136 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 to the palace of Scone, where the Scottish kings were for- 
 merly crowned. I saw the celebrated stone on which they 
 were crowned, in Westminster Abbey, whither it was re- 
 moved by Edward I. in 1296. The present palace is a 
 modern and very splendid edifice, the finest I have seen of 
 the kind, situated in an extensive park or lawn sloping to 
 the banks of the river. It is occupied by the Earl of 
 Mansfield, grand-son of the famous Lord Mansfield. The 
 apartments on the ground-floor are very magnificent, par- 
 ticularly the drawing-room, which I imagine is the ne plus 
 ultra of modern elegance. The tables and cabinets are 
 inlaid with brass, the ceiling carved with great taste, and 
 the walls covered with superb silk furniture, embroidered 
 in the richest manner. It is as large as four or five good 
 sized parlors. The library is of the same size. This, and 
 some other rooms, contain paintings by Lady Mansfield 
 herself, which are vastly creditable to her ladyship, and 
 would be to a professed artist. There is also a noble go- 
 thic gallery, one hundred and fifty feet long, with a floor of 
 polished oak, and a large organ. In the chambers, are 
 bed-curtains, etc., wrought by Mary, Queen of Scots, when 
 at Loch Leven. 
 
 Rode in the afternoon to Dunkeld, fifteen miles. Near 
 this town, we enter the grand pass to the highlands, which 
 here commence in all their beauty and grandeur. On the 
 road, we passed Birnam Wood, which it seems has not ail 
 * moved to Dunsinane,' a mountain twelve miles distant, 
 and seen from the top of Birnam.* Dunkeld is beautifully 
 
 * See Shakspeare ; Macbeth. 
 
Palace of Scone — Dunkeld. 137 
 
 situated, in a vale on the banks of the Tay, which is here 
 even fairer than at Perth, surrounded by lofty and pictur- 
 esque mountains, which closely overlook the town. The 
 scenery here exceeds any thing I have seen ; yet this ia 
 but the mere gate to the highlands ; and I may as well re- 
 serve my enthusiasm. 
 
 The principal landed proprietor in this region, is the 
 Duke of Athol, whose pleasure-grounds alone are said to 
 extend fifty miles in a straight line. We walked through 
 the charming garden on the banks of the river, to the half- 
 finished palace which had been commenced by the present 
 duke, but now remains in statu quo ; for the ' poor rich man* 
 became insane, and is now confined in a mad-house near 
 London. Crossing the rapid current of the river in a boat, 
 we climbed up to * Ossian's Hall,' a pretty bovver on the 
 brink of a deep precipice, and in front of a beautiful wa- 
 terfall, which comes tumbling down a rocky ravine from 
 an immense height, and is enchantingly reflected in the 
 mirrors of the bower.* From this height is a fine view of 
 the Grampian Hills, where 
 
 " My father feeds his flocks." 
 
 Stirling, June 17, P. M. — The Abbey of Dunblane 
 and the battle-field of Sheriff-Muir were the only objects of 
 interest during the ride from Perth : and there is little to 
 excite curiosity in the old and irregular town of Stirling, 
 
 * See Coiton's description of this romantic spot. Also ' Wavcr- 
 ley,' the early scenes of which are in these same Highlands of Perth- 
 shire; and perhaps this is the very spot described as the bower of the 
 high-souled Flora Mclvor. 
 
 12* 
 
138 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 except its noble castle, scarcely second to that of Edin- 
 burgh in fame and importance. Entering the esplanade, I 
 happened to meet the commanding officer, who inquired if 
 I was a stranger, and politely escorted me to every part of 
 the extensive fortification. ' In lliat room,' said he, ' James 
 VI. was born ;' this palace was built by James V., (the 
 * Knight of Snowdon, James Fitz James,') who often trav- 
 elled alone in various disguises. In those dungeons the 
 prisoners were confined after the battle of Bannockburn. 
 The views from the ramparts of the castle are very exten- 
 sive, and in many respects have been pronounced unri- 
 valled. They reach from Arthur's Seat, on one side, to 
 the highlands of Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond on the 
 other, a distance of sixty-five miles. Eleven counties, 
 comprising most of the places celebrated in Scottish his- 
 tory, may be seen from these battlements. On the south, 
 two miles distant, is the memorable field of Bannockburn, 
 where thirty thousand Scotchmen under Bruce, routed the 
 English army of one hundred thousand men, thirty thou- 
 sand of whom were killed. During the battle, when 
 victory was yet doubtful, the boys ('gillies'') who had 
 charge of the Scotch luggage, curious to know the result 
 of the contest, came with their carts to the top of the hill 
 near by, and the English, supposing them to be a fresh 
 army, took fright and scampered. So the place is called 
 « Gillies' Hill,' to this day. 
 
 At five P. M., set off for Callender, fifteen miles, cros- 
 sing the Forth, and passing ' the Banks and Braes of Bon- 
 nie Doune,' (but not Burns',) and the ruins of Doune Cas- 
 
Stirling Castle — Bannockburn, etc. 139 
 
 tie, a strong fortress, where Waverley was confined. A 
 little farther, we ride along the Teith, and pass the seat of 
 Buchanan, where Scott spent much of his boyhood, and his 
 taste for the sublime and beautiful in nature was inflamed 
 into a noble passion, by contemplating the scenery spread 
 before him. 
 
 Callender is a retired and quite a rude little village, at 
 the south-west entrance to the highlands, and is the usual 
 stopping place for tourists. The people here generally 
 speak Gaelic, and the children wear the highland kilt. The 
 inn is the only decent house in the place. Joined an agree- 
 able party from Edinburgh, and walked out to Bracklinn 
 Bridge, and a beautifully-romantic waterfall. For eigh- 
 teen hours out of the twenty-four, at this place, at present, 
 (June) it is light enough to read without a candle ; and at 
 eleven P. M., it is as light as our twilight. 
 
 IX. 
 
 SCOTLAND HIGHLANDS, ETC. 
 
 Scenery of 1 the Lady of the Lake' 1 — Lochs Vennachar, Achroy, and 
 Katrine — The Trosachs— Lochs Lomond, Long, and Fine— Iuve- 
 
 ra ry . 
 
 Stewart's Inn, Lock Achray, Friday eve. — This has 
 been a most delightful day. It was a soft and brilliant 
 morning, and we walked eight miles before breakfast to 
 the celebrated Pass of Leven, one of the grandest in the 
 
140 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 highlands. Ben Ledi, 'the Hill of God,' (where the natives 
 are said to have worshipped the sun,) lifts its lofty summit 
 on one side, and at its base are two lovely little lakes, their 
 glassy surface reflecting clearly the splendid picture 
 around. 
 
 After an excellent breakfast, M'Gregor, our host, fur- 
 nished us with the ' Rob Roy' car, and we were soon ush- 
 ered into the classic and romantic region of the « Lady of 
 the Lake ;' Ben Ledi being on our right, Ben An and 
 Ben Venue frowning upon us in front. Riding along the 
 banks of Loch Vennachar, on our left we passed Coilantogle 
 Ford, where was the ' combat,' in which Fitz James mas- 
 tered Roderick Dhu : 
 
 " By thicket green and mountain gray, 
 A vvildering path ! they winded now 
 Along the precipice's brow, 
 Commanding the rich scenes beneath 
 The windings of the Forth and Teith, 
 And all the vales between that lie, 
 Till Stirling's turrets melt in sky." 
 
 Our course was the same as that of the Knight of 
 Snowdon, reversed ; and every turn of the road brought 
 new beauties to view, in the splendid landscape. On the 
 opposite shore of Loch Vennachar, we saw the ' Gathering 
 Place of Clan Alpine ' where, at the shrill whistle of Rod- 
 erick Dhu, and to the surprise of Fitz James : 
 
 " Instant through copse and heath arose 
 Eonnets, and spears, and bended bows; 
 On right, on left, above, below, 
 Sprang up at once the lurking foe ; 
 From shingles gray their lances start, 
 The bracken bush sends forth the dart ; 
 
Scenery of the ' Lady of the Lake.' 141 
 
 The rushes and the willow-wand 
 Are bristling into axe and brand ; 
 And every tuft of broom gives life 
 To plaided warrior, armed for strife." 
 
 Every visiter here must remark the singular accuracy 
 of the pictures of scenery throughout this poem. So 
 closely has the bard copied nature, and the peculiarities of 
 identical places and things which, you supposed, existed 
 only in his imagination, one would almost conclude that he 
 had more talent than genius in this case — i. e. taking the 
 doctor's definition, 'genius invents, talent combines.' 
 
 The ' plaided warriors' are now scarcely to be seen 
 this side of the Braes of Balquiddar. How similar is their 
 case to that of our American Indians ! Like them, they 
 were the original possessors of the soil, and roved in law- 
 Jess freedom : 
 
 " Far to the south and east, where lay 
 Extended in succession gay, 
 Deep waving fields and pastures green, 
 With gentle slopes and groves between ; 
 These fertile plains, that softened vale, 
 Were once the birth-right of the Gael ; 
 The stranger came, with iron hand, 
 And from our fathers reft the land." 
 
 And as Roderick continues, addressing the king : 
 
 "Think'st thou we will not sally forth 
 To spoil the spoiler as we may, 
 And from the robber rend the prey V 1 
 
 A short distance beyond Loci! Vennachar, we came to 
 Loch Achrav, about half a mile long, and so placid and 
 
142 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 beautiful, that an Englishman took it for a work of art, 
 and remarked that it was ' very well got up !' On the 
 banks of this lovely lake, surrounded by the grand and 
 lofty Trosachs, is the rustic little inn of Ardchinchrocan, 
 where we stopped for the day. It ' takes' a Scott to do 
 justice to this charming spot, and the wild but majestic 
 scenery around. It seems far removed from the noise and 
 trouble of the * work-day world.' 
 
 After dinner, we took a walk to Loch Katrine, through 
 the most sublime and difficult of all the passes through the 
 Grampians — that formed by the Trosachs, or * bristled 
 territory.' All that is wild and stupendous in mountain 
 scenery here unites : 
 
 " High on the south, huge Ben Venue, 
 Down to the lake its masses threw ; 
 Crags, knowls, and mounds, confusedly hurl'd, 
 The fragments of an earlier world." 
 
 Not a shrub nor a plant can be seen on these heights. 
 Their rough, gloomy sides form a strange contrast to the 
 green vales below. The echo from them is remarkably dis- 
 tinct. We passed through the shady ravine, where the 
 green knights' ' gallant gray' fell, exhausted after ' the 
 chase.' A few steps from this, the charming Loch Kat- 
 rine suddenly appears. The upper part only is visible at 
 first, ' the Island' obstructing the view, so that new and 
 varied beauties are discovered at every step. The scene 
 is calculated to inspire and elevate the nobler feelings of 
 the visiter. Passing along the banks, we came to 'the 
 
Loch Katrine — The Trosachs. 143 
 
 beach of pebbles white as snow,' opposite ' the Island,' 
 where Fitz James first saw Ellen : 
 
 'I well believe.' the maid replied, 
 
 As her light skiff' approached the side, 
 ' I well believe that ne'er before 
 
 Your foot hath trod Loch Katrine's shore.' 
 
 The ' promontory,' ' the bay,' 'the brake,' 'the peb- 
 bles,' are all here ; and to enliven the scene, there was 
 an old man who might have been Allan Bane, playing 
 wildly on a flute ; and he gave us some fine old Scotch 
 airs, which were quite a treat. We had a thunder- 
 shower, too, and taking shelter in a cave, we heard ' hea- 
 ven's artillery' echoed through these mighty mountains, 
 with most impressive grandeur. On our return, with 
 much exertion, I at length achieved the summit of one of 
 the minor heights, and was amply repaid by the prospect 
 therefrom. It was at sunset ; and the whole of the three 
 Lochs Katrine, Achray, and Vennachar, with the snow- 
 capped Grampians on the north, and the distant ocean on 
 the west, were distinctly seen. The cattle on the nearest 
 mountains appeared not larger than cats. 
 
 Inverary, Head of Loch Fine, Saturday, IIP. M. — 
 With the moon. lit lake under my window, I resume my 
 disjointed narrative. Yesterday we had seen the Tro- 
 sachs in the clearest atmosphere, but to-day they were 
 encircled with the mists which rolled majestically along 
 their sides, while their summits were ' bright with the 
 beams of the morning sun.' Our hostess at Loch Achray 
 
144 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 provided us with a boat and oarsmen, and we proceeded 
 through the pass from which 
 
 " Loch Katrine lay beneath us roll'd — 
 In all her length far winding lay, 
 With promontory, creek, and bay, 
 And islands that empurpled bright, 
 Floated amid the livelier light ; 
 And mountains that like giants stand 
 To sentinel enchanted land." 
 
 How accurate and graphic the picture ! This lake 
 is about seven miles long, and perhaps half a mile wide. 
 We sailed over its smooth and brilliantly-dark transpa- 
 rent surface, and touched the banks of Ellen's Isle : 
 
 "The stranger vievv'd the shore around, 
 'Twas all so close with copse- wood bound, 
 Nor track, nor path-way might declare 
 That human foot frequented there." 
 
 Our boatman here gave us a specimen of the wonderful 
 echoes.* His shrill call was answered three times, with 
 perfect distinctness, and apparently from a great distance. 
 He had a pithy way of talking, this rower. ' Do the sun's 
 rays,' I asked, ' ever reach that glen under Ben An V who 
 here 
 
 11 Lifts high his forehead bare." 
 
 'Yes,' he said; 'they give just a peep, to say 'How- 
 d'ye-do ? and are off again.' 
 
 ' Is it five English miles across the next pass ? 
 
 * " ' Father !' she cried ; ' the rocks around 
 Love to prolong the gentle sound !' " 
 
Loch-Lomond to Inverary. 145 
 
 * English miles, but a Scotch road.' 
 
 We passed the goblin cave, and enjoyed all at which 
 4 the stranger ' was enraptured and amazed ; ' that soft vale,' 
 and 'this bold brow,' and ' yonder meadow far away.' On 
 landing, our boat-party found ponies in waiting to take U3 
 over the rough and dreary pass to Loch- Lomond. Our 
 cavalcade, with the guides, straggling along between these 
 wild hills and precipices, was a subject for the pencil. 
 There were some odd geniuses among us, too, who contribut- 
 ed much to our amusement. Arrived at Loch-Lomond, we 
 descended a rocky steep, to the banks where the steam-boat 
 from Glasgow was to call for us. The place is called In- 
 versnaid ; but the only habitation in sight was a little hut, 
 at the foot of a pretty cascade, where Wordsworth wrote : 
 
 1 And I, methinks, till I grow old, 
 So fair a scene shall ne'er behold, 
 As I do now— the cabin small, 
 The lake, the bay, the water-fall, 
 And thou the spirit of them all.' 
 
 The boat took us to the head of the loch to see Rob 
 
 Roy's Cave, (which also once gave shelter to Robert Bruce,) 
 
 and then reversed her course toward Glasgow. As we 
 
 proposed to see Inverary, and some of the Western Islands, 
 
 we landed at Tarbet, opposite Ben Lomond. The sky 
 
 looked too black to warrant an ascent ; but with glasses 
 
 we could see several persons on the sugar-loaf summit. A 
 
 tourist wrote on the window of the inn here, in 1777, a 
 
 chapter of metrical advice to those 
 
 'Whose taste for grandeur and the dread sublime 
 Prompt them Ben Lomond's dreadful height to climb.' 
 13 
 
146 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 From Tarbet, we took a car and rode through the grand 
 but dreary pass of Glencroe, Ben Arthur frowning upon us 
 for six miles, and went round the head of Loch Long to 
 Cairndow, on Loch Fine, where we again took boat for In- 
 verary, and had a charming moonlight sail. This is a very 
 neat and pretty little village, belonging almost entirely to 
 the Duke of Argyle. The houses are mostl r white, and 
 evidently arranged for effect, being clearly reflected in the 
 quiet lake, like Isola Bella, in Italy. The duke's castle, 
 near the village, is an elegant modern edifice, of blue gra- 
 nite, with a circular tower at each corner. We had a ride 
 through the extensive parks and pleasure-grounds, which 
 are filled with every variety of valuable exotic trees. Th 
 owner of this fine estate has not been here for fifteen years ; 
 no great argument for his grace's good taste, or justice to 
 his tenants. Some of the most eminent British artists have 
 found ample employment for their pencils in this neighbour- 
 hood. The loch is celebrated for its fine herrings, which 
 is the chief article of trade of Inverary. 
 
Loch-Fine— The Clyde. 147 
 
 SCOTLAND CONTINUED. 
 
 The Western Isles — Sail up Ike Clyde — Dumbarton Castle — Glas- 
 gow — Cathedral, University, etc. — Linlithgow — Return to Edin- 
 burgh and Londor —Steam Ships — Waverley Novels. 
 
 Monday Morning. — At three o'clock we were awaken, 
 ed for the steam-boat, and were not more than half dress, 
 ed, when the steam ceased from growling, and the bell from 
 toiling ; nevertheless, we caught up what garments remain- 
 ed, leaving a few as wind-falls to the chamber-maid, and 
 fled f ) the dock. The steamer was off, sure enough, but 
 ocimo to, and sent a boat for us, on seeing our signals. It is 
 now broad day-light, and was, indeed, at two o'clock ! The 
 sail down Loch Fine is rather tedious. It is a salt-water 
 lake, from thirty to forty miles in length, and the shores 
 are low and barren as the sea-coast. 
 
 We stopped at several places for passengers, and pass- 
 ing between the isles of Bute and Arran, (celebrated in ' The 
 Lord of the Isles,') we entered the Kyles of Bute, where 
 the shores are verdant and interesting. 
 
 At the town of Rothsay, on the Isle of Bute, we saw the 
 ruins of the famous Rothsay Castle ; and a few miles far- 
 ther we passed the Castle of Dunoon, and several pretty 
 summer-villas on the banks of the water. Entering the 
 Frith of Clyde, we stopped at the flourishing ports of 
 Greenock and Port Glasgow, and the strong fortress of 
 
148 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Dumbarton, built on a lofty and picturesque rock, at the 
 mouth of the river Clyde. From here, is a fine view of 
 the Vale of Leven, and the whole outline of Ben Lomond, 
 about fifteen miles distant. The pretty vale in the fore- 
 ground is the scene of Smol let's beautiful ode : 
 
 'On Leven's banks when free to rove, 
 And tune the rural pipe to love, 
 I envied not the happiest swain 
 That ever trod the Arcadian plain.' 
 
 In sailing up the Clyde, the most remarkable sight was 
 the immense number of steam-boats which passed us in 
 rapid succession. We met no less than twenty-one, of a 
 large class, on the river, all bound out ; and I was told 
 that upward of eighly are owned in Glasgow alone. "Wo 
 landed at Glasgow, after u voyage of twelve hours, during 
 which we had stopped at as many different places. I was 
 surprised at the extent and elegance of Glasgow, as much 
 as at its evident importance as a manufacturing and com- 
 mercial city. It seems to be scarcely second to Liverpool, 
 and is certainly the third city in Great Britain on the scoro 
 of population and trade. 
 
 It is too far up the river for a seaport, so that Greenock 
 is a sharer in its prosperity. The buildings, like those of 
 the new town of Edinburgh, are nearly all of a handsome 
 free-stone, which is found in great abundance near the city, 
 and is the cheapest as well as the best material they can 
 use. Loss by fire is especially rare. Some of the private 
 residences would do honor to the west end of London, 
 
Glasgow — * Rob Roy ' scenes. 149 
 
 The streets fronting the Clyde, on both sides, are very 
 imposing, and arc connected by four handsome stone bridges, 
 while the banks of the river are substantially walled with 
 granite, surmounted with iron railings. There is a public 
 park, pleasure-ground, and gymnasium, near the river. 
 The streets, particularly the Broadway of the town, Tron- 
 gate-street, were literally thronged, quite as much so as 
 Cheapside and Fleet-street in the Metropolis. In this street 
 I saw the remaining tower of the Tol booth, where Rub Roy 
 conducted Frank, and met Eail.ie Nicol Jarvie. From 
 thence I walked up II igh-street to the venerable Uuniversi- 
 ty, of which Campbell, the poet, who is a native of Glasgow, 
 was lately principal.* The structure is very antique, and in- 
 closes three squares. I passed through college after college, 
 looking as learned as possible, and graduated in the ' green,' 
 where Frank Osbaldistone encountered Rashleigh. Farther 
 up the street, I arrived at the old cathedral, one of the largest 
 in Britain. It is now divided into three churches for Presyb- 
 terians. The pillars which support the great tower are im- 
 mense. I measured my umbrella twice on one side of a single 
 square pillar. The crypt (basement) where Frank Osbaldis- 
 tone attended church, and was warned by Rob Roy, extends 
 the whole length of the cathedral, and is the most curious 
 part of it. In the grave-yard I noticed monuments to John 
 Knox, and McGavin, author of the Protestant. 
 
 * * The Merchants' Exchange is a splendid Corin- 
 thian edifice, and contains a noble public hall, and an ex- 
 
 * This office, as is well known, is )W held by bin Robert Peel. 
 13 ! 
 
150 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 tensive reading-room. I was surprised at the extraordinary 
 cheapness of rents, both here and in Edinburgh, compared 
 with those in our good city of Gotham. The very best 
 finished three-story houses, of stone, of the largest class, 
 and in desirable situations, may be had for four hundred 
 and fifty dollars per annum. Our New-York landlords 
 would demand for a similar residence, at least twelve hun- 
 dred dollars. In Edinburgh, as it is not a commercial 
 place, rents are still lower. Very superior houses, with 
 large gardens, etc., are let for eighty pounds per year. 
 
 After seeing Langside, about two miles from Glasgow, 
 where the cause of the ill-fated Queen of Scots was finally 
 overthrown, I rode to Linlithgow, for the sake of a glance 
 at her birth-place; the palace once so famous and ' fair.' 
 
 c Of all the palaces so fair, 
 
 Built for the royal dwelling, 
 Above the rest, beyond compare, 
 
 Linlithgow is excelling.' 
 
 The walls remain nearly entire, but the interior was 
 totally destroyed by fire, during one of the civil feuds. 
 The town, as well as that of Falkirk, a few miles beyond 
 is dull and gloomy.* Some of the old houses in Falkirk 
 were once occupied by the knights of St John, who had a 
 preceptory near the place. The field where the great 
 battle was fought, in which Wallace was defeated, is a short 
 distance from the town. I reached Edinburgh at ten p. M., 
 
 ♦ The house yet remains in Linlithgow, from which the Regent 
 Murray was shot. 
 
Linlithgow — Adieu to Scotland. 151 
 
 in the canal-boat from Glasgow, which goes at the rate of 
 nine miles an hour, and landed under the batteries of the 
 castle ; having passed a week in delightful weather, among 
 the most interesting parts of Scotland. I have been agree- 
 ably surprised at the evident marks of industry and pros- 
 perity which are almost every where apparent. The Scotch 
 are notoriously shrewd, enterprising, and thriving; but 
 we Yankees, like other nations, are apt to think ourselves 
 far before the rest of the world in ' inventions and improve- 
 ments ;' and though a foreigner would sneer at my pre- 
 sumption, I have really felt pleased when I have seen any 
 thing abroad * pretty nearly* as good as we can show at 
 home. It is folly, at the same time, for us to flatter our- 
 selves that we can in no wise take profitable example from 
 our father-land! 
 
 Notwithstanding the flattering invitation from Mr. 
 
 G , (of the agreeable party I had the honor and pleasure 
 
 joining in the Highland tour,) business called me speedily 
 to London, and I therefore took berth in the ' Caledonia' 
 steamer, and reluctantly bade adieu to my hospitable friends, 
 and to 
 
 'Edina! Scotia's darling seat, 
 With all her palaces and towers.' 
 
 The London steam-packets sail from Ncw-IIaven, one 
 of the seaports of Edinburgh. They are very large, and 
 are built and rigged like ships; with a fine dining-cabin 
 on deck, over that of the berths. The fare from Edinburgh 
 to London, (about five hundred miles by water,) is three 
 
152 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 pounds, meals included ; and they make the passage in from 
 forty -two to fifty hours. A good library in the cabin served 
 to relieve the tediousness of the trip ; and I found, on re- 
 ference, that I had visited or passed over many of the scenes 
 described in the Waverley Novels ; and what a gallery of 
 pictures do those works exhibit ! They are too familiar, 
 however, to need any reference. One of the principal 
 charms of Scott's fictions, as has been often remarked, is the 
 accuracy and truth to nature, both of his landscapes and 
 his characters. He studied scenery and localities, in the 
 course of his frequent excursions, as well as individual 
 traits; and as he has himself told us, he had an original in 
 his eye for most of his apparently imaginary portraits. 
 
 As we sail along the coast, we have a distant view of 
 several remarkable places. Preston. Pans, where the cheva- 
 lier and his Highlanders routed the royal army, under Sir 
 John Cope ; Dunbar, and its castle ; Dunglass Castle ; Ber- 
 wick-upon-Tweed, near the ' Border ;' Lindisfarne, or Holy 
 Island, which figures in ' Marmion ;' Flodden Field lies a 
 few miles from the coast; and Alnwick and Warkworth 
 Castles, 
 
 c Home of the Percy's high-born race, 
 
 are but a few miles from the Border, on the English side. 
 Carlisle and its famous castle, and Gretna-Green, are more 
 in the interior. The finest small views of Scottish scenery 
 may be found in ' Caledonia Illustrated,' now publishing, 
 edited by Dr. Beattie. 
 
 On board our steam-ship, I was amused at the specula- 
 
1 Waverley' scenes. — Yankeeism, etc. 153 
 
 tions of my neighbors at the table, respecting a person at 
 the other end of it, whom they finally pronounced a Yankee, 
 from the sure evidence of his chewing tobacco. They never 
 suspected me, it seems, for one of the barbarians, and look- 
 ed rather blank, when I spoke to him as a fellow country- 
 man. He was a pretty considerable thorough-bred down- 
 easter ; and it was not strange that John Bull detected him. 
 * * We landed at the East India docks, five or six 
 miles from St. Paul's, and considering myself pretty well 
 informed in the law, and not easily to be cheated, I hired a 
 hack, without saying a word as to the price, and had the 
 pleasure of being forced to pay five times the lawful fare, 
 because, forsooth, the law did not extend down the river, 
 and, m^-co*e r > it was a 'glass coach!' 
 
 XL 
 
 Londov, again — House of Lords — Applying for 'orders' — Duke 
 of Wellington, Melbourne, etc.— O'Connel— Service in Westmin- 
 ster Abbey— Windsor Castle— Politics— Oxford, University, Li- 
 braries, etc. 
 
 House of Lords. — There is no admittance for plebeians 
 to this * august assembly,' without a written order from a 
 peer; but we were not to be daunted on this wise. We 
 wrote a billet to some of the great 'uns, as follows : 
 
 1 To his Grace thf. Duhe of Wellington: 
 
 ' My Lobd Duke : The undersigned, a stranger from the United 
 
154 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 States, presumes to solicit your Grace's permission to visit the House 
 of Lords this evening. 
 
 'I am, my Lord Duke, 
 
 'Your Grace's Humble Servant, 
 
 Tin's circular was addressed also to the Duke of Buc- 
 cleugh, Viscount Melbourne, Marquis of Londonderry, etc., 
 for the Lords ; and to O'Connell, Hume, Spring Rice, and 
 Sergeant Talfourd, for the Commons. To ensure success, 
 I took a cab, and called on their graces and lordships in 
 person. At Whitehall-Gardens, the powdered and gold- 
 laced footman, gracefully bowing for a sixpence 'to drink 
 my health,' presented me with a note, neatly sealed with 
 the duke's arms, which purported thus : 
 
 'The Duke of Buccleugh presents his compiimeiua to ivTr. and 
 
 has the honor to inclose an order far the House of Lords.' 
 
 * * * This for my friend. Now to the premier's 
 for myself. The viscount's house is certainly not more 
 ostentatious than his neighbors.' 
 
 1 On business ?' asked the porter, as 1 presented my 
 'little affair.' 
 
 * Yes,' said I stoutly. 
 
 ' Then you must take it to the office, in Downing-street. 
 His lordship transacts no business at home.' 
 
 ' Oh !' it is private business — very special, and requires 
 an immediate answer,' returned I, remembering the advan- 
 tage of an air of consequence, with these 'gentlemen's 
 gentlemen.' 
 
 The official disappeared, and soon brought me a roughly- 
 
1 Orders' for the House of Lords, 155 
 
 folded note, addressed in true great men's hieroglyphics: 
 
 Esq., 
 
 ' 18 Norfolk-street, Strand. 
 Melbourne.' 
 
 It inclosed the order. Next, to Apsley House: 'The 
 
 duke will send an answer.' To Piccadilly : ' The Marquis 
 
 not in town.' To Cavendish-Square: 'The duke will be 
 
 at home shortly ; an answer at two o'clock.' To Lang- 
 
 ham-Place : Reply endorsed on the petition : 
 
 ' Finding Mr. is not a resident of a slave-holding state, Mr. 
 
 O'Connell has the honor to comply with his request. 
 1 Admit the bearer to the gallery.' Daniel O'Connell.' 
 
 To Guildhall: Mr. Talfourd, the author of Ion,' in court, 
 examining a witness. Asked the constable to give him my 
 note, when he was disengaged ; but he pushed inside, before 
 judge and jury, thinking I had something touching the case 
 in hand. Luckily the sergeant was busy, and I escaped, 
 A brace of orders came from him in season, so I supplied 
 my friends ; for no member can give an order for more than 
 one person at a time. 
 
 We went to the House of Lords at five P. M. The 
 room is about the same size as that of the Commons, but 
 looks, of course, a little more ' genteel. ' The throne is a 
 large arm-chair, under a crimson canopy, not particularly 
 splendid. The members' scats are elevated on each side, 
 and covered with red moreen. The 'ministerial bench' is 
 in front, near the woolsack and the bishops ; and their 
 party (at present whigs) all sit on the some side, while the 
 
156 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 opposition, or tories, occupy the other, facing their oppo. 
 nents. In this house, the tories, or conservatives, of course 
 predominate. The members were in plain citizen's dress, 
 except the bishops, the chancellor, and the clerks, who all 
 wear a black gown and big wigs. When we entered, a 
 witness was being examined in an election-bribery case: 
 presently the house was called to order, and the chancel- 
 lor (Lord Cottenham) took his seat on the woolsack, which 
 is nothing more than a good sized red ottoman. An or. 
 dinary-looking man, who it appeared was the Earl of Wick- 
 low, then rose, and made a studied speech, in which there 
 were far more words than ideas, against appropriations for 
 a charity-school in Ireland, which he alleged was under 
 Catholic influence. Some one at the door announced, ' My 
 luds ! a message from the House of Commons !' and on 
 each repetition of this, the chancellor, poor man, had to 
 leave his seat and come down the hall with a bag, which 
 they call the purse, to receive the ' message.' One of the 
 prelates (the Bishop of Exeter) rose and supported the 
 Earl of Wicklow's motion ; and then presented petitions 
 from manufacturing districts, praying for interference in 
 behalf of the children employed in factories, who w 7 ere 
 often required to work twenty hours out of the twenty-four, 
 and were otherwise ill-treated. The bishop made some 
 remarkable statements in the course of his appeal, which 
 was manly and sensible ; and I observed Melbourne, the 
 minister, who is a full-sized, elderly man, leave his seat and 
 whisper to somebody, and then return with a point-blank con- 
 
Melbourne — Lyndhurst — Wellington. 1 57 
 
 tradiction to one of the bishop's assertions, which of course 
 produced a rejoinder. 
 
 When I revisited the house on the 17th, the Marquis of 
 Londonderry had the floor. My object was to see Wei- 
 lington. « Pray is he here V 4 Yes ; don't you see his nose?' 
 Ah, there's no mistaking the duke. There he sits, between 
 the dandy-exquisite-moustached-tory-Duke of Cumberland 
 (the king's brother) and Lord Lyndhurst, the intellectual 
 giant of the house, the ablest peer of them all, and the best 
 orator, perhaps the only orator, among them. 'He is an 
 extraordinary man, that,' said my neighbor. « No doubt,' 
 thought I. His father was a native of our own Boston. 
 * That tall man, with a short neck, and black hair, is Lord 
 Ellenborough, and he in the rear, the Earl of Devon, all 
 tories — " birds of a feather. " Brougham is not here ; he 
 appears to have retired of late from public life. But hush ! 
 The duke is going to speak ! Lo ! the great captain, who 
 is at once two dukes, (Spanish and English,) a prince, (of 
 Belgium,) two marquisses, three generals, a field-marshal, 
 four or five ex-premiers, knight of the garter, Chancellor 
 of the University of Oxford, Constable of the Tower, and 
 filling I know not how many other stations; the conqueror 
 of Napoleon ; the commander of three great armies ; the 
 leader at the ball of Brussels, when 
 
 'There was a sound of revelry by night, 
 And Belgium's capital had gathered then 
 Her beauty and her chivalry ;' 
 
 this famous great-little man rose lo speak. And he spoke 
 'pretty well considering.' He hesitates and stutters at 
 
 14 
 
158 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 times, but when he gets warm with his subject, as he is now, 
 he waxes quite eloquent. He is evidently listened to with 
 much deference and attention. They have not forgotten 
 Waterloo. 
 
 A few days since a meeting of the "friends of O'Con- 
 nell and reform" was held at the 'Crown and Anchor' to 
 raise a subscription for the great agitator in consideration 
 of his expenses at recent elections.* Mr. Hume, one of 
 the radical leaders in the House, presided, and made a 
 speech. He is a Scotchman, and looks honest as well as 
 able and talented. At another meeting, in reference to the 
 case of Dr. Beaumont, an Englishman who had been im- 
 prisoned in France for some political offences, O'Connell 
 himself was in the chair, and exhibited his peculiar powers 
 of satire and bitter invective in an harangue against Louis 
 Philippe and the whole French nation. In person he is very 
 large and tall: with a full, broad, and strikingly Irish face, 
 and his style of oratory is well adapted to work on the pas- 
 sions rather than the reason of the populace. 
 
 I usually attend church on Sunday afternoons at West- 
 minster Abbey. I love to go there. One can read ser- 
 mons on the walls. The very tombs discourse history, 
 poetry, and philosophy. The verbal preachers are usually 
 sufficiently dull. Among others, I have heard the Bishops 
 of Hereford, Chester, and Exeter ; and (in his own church) 
 the Rev. George Croly, the poet, author of ' SalathieL' 
 Croly is a man of fifty, or thereabout, a high tory, and 
 
 * It was staled that one election had cost Mr. O'Connell, K I re- 
 collect right, 1 9,000 ! ! 
 
CTConnell— Thoughts in the 'Abbey.' 1 59 
 
 distinguished for his eloquence ; yet according to my 
 humble opinion, neither of these great guns will compare 
 with our Dr. H as pulpit orators. But there is some- 
 thing impressive in the church service in such a place as this 
 venerable abbey. Here you may sit within a few steps of the 
 spot where sleep the mortal remains of the royal Edwards, 
 Henrys, Richards, of old; the knights of chivalry repose 
 at your feet ; from the valiant deeds of the Black Prince, 
 the bloody career of the monster Gloucester, the mad 
 pranks of Falstaff's dearly beloved 'Hal,' the brilliant 
 court of Elizabeth, and the woes of the unfortunate Mary 
 Stuart, your thoughts turn, on a glance at other tablets, 
 to the lofty strains of him who sung of 
 
 • Things invisible to mortal sight,' 
 
 and to the splendid creations of the Bard of Avon ; the 
 epitaphs of the time-honored Chaucer; * O Rare Ben Jon- 
 son ;' and the whole host of poets, statesmen, and philoso- 
 phers — stars of the first magnitude in English literature — 
 meet your eye on every side ; and while you are so forcibly 
 reminded that 
 
 'The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, 
 
 And all that beauty, all that wealth ere gave, 
 Await alike the inevitable hour — 
 The paths of glory lead but to the grave ;' 
 
 the rich, full notes of the organ, softened by the voices of 
 the juvenile choir, are echoed through the lofty and vener- 
 able arches, as they chant in harmonious chorus : 
 
 ' Glory be to God on high !— on eartb peace, and good will toward men !' 
 Windsor Castle, July 11. — Atth<: i White Horse Cellar,' 
 
160 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Piccadilly, I perched myself on a Windsor coach, and off 
 we rattled by Apsley-House, Hyde-Park, and Kensington 
 Gardens, our coachee skillfully threading his way between 
 the innumerable omnibuses and other vehicles which ply 
 between the modern Babel and the hundred-and-one villages 
 in its environs. We passed through Kensington, Kings- 
 bridge, Hounslow, Brentford, Hammersmith, Kew, Turn- 
 ham Green, and a series of gardens between. The castle 
 is first seen from the road, crowning an elevation about 
 three miles distant, on the left, and, even so far off, it makes 
 a display, truly imposing and picturesque. The coach made 
 a short turn through the town of Eton, where is the cele- 
 brated school, or college, in which noblemen are proud 
 to have been educated ; and with a glance at its curious 
 Gothic chapel, we crossed a bridge over the Thames, and 
 were at once in the respectable old town of Windsor,, 
 where there are no doubt as many ' merry wives' as in the 
 days of Shakspeare and sweet Anne Page. There are 
 several approaches to the castle, the chief one being from 
 the Great Park; but the public are admitted only on the 
 side of the town, through the two ' outer walls,' each of 
 which are well flanked with towers of stone. The castle 
 itself covers as much space as a small village, and a nov- 
 ice is somewhat puzzled in its labyrinths of arches, donjons, 
 inner and outer walls, towers, and gateways. It is indeed 
 a magnificent and kingly structure, or rather assemblage 
 of structures, for the various parts have been built at 
 widely different periods, and in every variety of form ; but 
 the whole seems most happily combined in one vast edifice, 
 
Windsor Castle and Park. 161 
 
 in which the strength, grandeur, and castellated style of 
 the old baronial strong holds, is as remarkable, as the ele- 
 gance, splendor, and comfort of a modern palace. It is 
 well described by Von Raumer, in his letters. His majesty, 
 it appeared, had not been advised of my visit, and had gone 
 to take his dejeuner at Kew ; but I found that a couple of 
 his representatives, in the shape of shilling-pieces, would 
 introduce me at once into the state apartments ; and I can 
 conscientiously give my full approval of the audience- 
 chambers, the throne-room, ball-room, and St. George's 
 Hall, as being magnificent, in the highest degree. This 
 part of the castle has been recently renovated and mo- 
 dernized, at great expense. All the rooms are adorned 
 with fine paintings and tapestries, of which latter, the 'His- 
 tory of Esther' series is particularly beautiful. At the 
 Hampton. Court Palace I saw the duplicate original of those 
 tapestries of Raphael, which we had in New- York. From 
 the terraces of the castle, you have a thoroughly English 
 landscape ; green meadows, winding streams, and gentle 
 elevations. St. George's Chapel, adjoining the castle, is 
 considered a gem of Gothic architecture. It contains the 
 twenty-four stalls of the knights of the garter, with their 
 banners suspended above ; and I noticed also, a beautiful 
 monument to the late Princess Charlotte. In the park, 
 adjoining the castle, I looked for Hearhe's oak, and sure 
 enough, there was the tree where tradition says FalstafT 
 was enticed and pinched by the fairies; and near it is the 
 foot-path to Dachet Mead, where they ducked him in the 
 buck-basket. 
 
 14* 
 
162 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 The approach to the castle from the great park, and the 
 sweet little lake called Virginia Water, is through a noble 
 avenue, extending three miles in a perfectly straight and 
 level line, and shaded by rows of stately elms. One of the 
 best views of the castle is from the hill, at the end of this 
 avenue, I have made up my mind, that Windsor and 
 Warwick cannot be equalled, ' in their way,' as Mr. 
 Cooper says, in all Europe. 
 
 On the way back, there was an amusing dispute on 
 the top of the coach between a tory, a moderate reformer, 
 and a fiery radical. I was astonished to observe the 
 freedom and boldness with which they settled the affairs of 
 the nation, and railed at each other's party, or individuals 
 composing it. John Bull certainly allows his children 
 some liberties — those of speech, the press, and conscience 
 — (though perhaps scarcely the last,) and a stranger can 
 gain more insight into the character and opinions of the 
 people, in a mixed company, like that of a stage-coach, 
 than from all the books in the museum. 
 
 * * * The University of Oxford, which has 
 
 existed since the year 886, comprises no less than nine- 
 teen different colleges, each distinct and independent, with 
 a president and faculty; but united in a sort of federal 
 compact, and governed by a Chancellor, and Vice-Chan- 
 cellor, the latter being the acting and responsible officer. 
 The Duke of Wellington, as you well know, at present fills 
 the Chancellor's chair. The college buildings are nearly 
 all of the Tudor style of architecture, and most of them, in- 
 deed, were erected in the reigns of Henry VII. and VIII., 
 
Oxford — University, etc. 163 
 
 and of Elizabeth ; and they bear now a stately and vener- 
 able aspect. They are in the quadrangular form, covering 
 two or three acres, with a large area in the centre. Sev- 
 eral of them front on High-street, which is considered one 
 of the most imposing in Europe. 
 
 I had no letters to Oxford ; and my reception by Mr. 
 
 and Mrs. T , with only a self-introduction, gave me a 
 
 most favorable impression of English hospitality. They 
 invited me to their house with the cordiality of old friends ; 
 and with the most unassuming kindness, which will not 
 soon be forgotten, took pains to show me the many inter- 
 esting sights of this beautiful town. On Sunday I attended 
 their church, which boasts no little antiquity, having been 
 founded by Alfred the Great, in the eighth century. Its 
 style of architecture is of course Anglo-Saxon. 
 
 In the afternoon, I went with Mr. T to the beauti- 
 ful chapel of Magdalen college, to hear the chanting, which 
 is performed by a choir of boys, in the most perfect and 
 touching manner. It was the sweetest, most expressive, 
 and most appropriate church music I had ever heard. The 
 effect can scarcely be imagined by one who has only heard 
 the Episcopal chants in our churches. In this chapel is a 
 painting by Carlo Dolci, valued at eleven thousand guin- 
 eas ! Addison was educated at Magdalen College ; and 
 his favorite walk, on the banks of the Isis, is yfct called 
 ' Addison's Walk.' Gibbon, whose stately style is so 
 strongly in contrast with the classic ease and purity of the 
 1 Spectator,' took his degree here, also. The ' crack' col- 
 lege, in size, wealth, the extent of its library, and gallery 
 
164 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 of paintings, and the aristocracy of its members, is Christ 
 Church. Most of its graduates are sons of the nobility, 
 and the higher classes ; but yet it was in this college I was 
 shown the room occupied by Dr. Johnson, who was cer- 
 tainly a plebeian, albeit an inveterate tory. 
 
 But I will not inflict on you a prosing account of this 
 renowned University, or a catalogue of her sons ; are they 
 not all written in books?* I must say a word or two, 
 howbeit, of the two great libraries ; for, as friend Harper 
 says, ' that is somewhat in my line.' The Radcliffe 
 library is in a circular building, with a huge dome, and an 
 elegant interior. It contains, besides its one hundred and 
 fifty thousand volumes, a fine collection of casts and busts, 
 such as the Laocoon, Apollo Belvidere, Warwick Vase, 
 etc. The Bodleian is still more extensive. It has three 
 hundred thousand volumes, and a large picture-gallery, 
 with many noble paintings, and models of ancient temples. 
 These immense repositories of literary treasures, and gems 
 of art, are alone well worth a visit to Oxford. But I 
 could not help thinking, that the world would not be much 
 the wiser for a greater part of these books. It strikes us 
 
 * See Ingram's Memorials of Oxford'— containing fine views cf the 
 buildings, &c. The graduates of the two great universities, Oxford and 
 Cambridge, of course comprise most of the distinguished names in Eng- 
 lish literature. Among those of the former, beside the above mentioned 
 were Canning, Bishop Heber, Steele, Dr. Young, Shenstone, Collins, 
 Warton, Sir Wm. Jones, Southey, Prof. Wilson, Millman, etc — Cam- 
 bridge boasts of her famous f classics,' Bentley, Parr, and Porson ; and 
 of Barrow, Home, Milton, Dryden, Spenser, Sir Isaac Newton, 
 Sterne, Prior, Gray, Horace Wahpole, Mason, Home Tooke, William 
 Pitt, W T ordsworth, Coleridge, Byron, Shelley. 
 
Libraries — Noted * Alumni? etc. 165 
 
 practical Yankees, that books were made for use, rather 
 than to fill up long shelves, to be looked at only on the out- 
 side, and the mass of them never to be opened, even by the 
 1 favored few.' Among the rarities which they show here, 
 are an Ethiopic MS. version of the Book of Enoch, re- 
 cently brought from Africa, and Queen Elizabeth's Latin 
 exercise- book, in her own hand- writing. Connected with 
 the Bodleian, is a hall of ancient sculpture, containing 
 about eighty statues, which have been brought from Greece 
 and Italy. Near by, are kept the celebrated Arundelian 
 marbles ; and here 1 saw the original Parian Chronicle, 
 made two hundred and sixty-four years before Christ ! and 
 of course now somewhat illegible. This chronicle, you 
 know, was an important authority in ancient chronology. 
 I must not forget the ' Theatre,' an edifice not for dramatic 
 performances, but the college anniversaries, which we 
 call 'commencements.' This extensive hall is elegantly 
 decorated, and well contrived for a large audience. It 
 was here that the Emperors of Russia and Austria, etc., 
 were pompously received, when they visited England, in 
 1815. The connoisseur in paintings will find ample enter- 
 tainment in Oxford ; and if you come here, especially do 
 not omit seeing the altar-piece in All-Soul's chapel, a most 
 exquisite * Magdalen,' with an expression of countenance I 
 can never forget. A few miles from Oxford, is the splen- 
 did palace and park of Blenheim, given by the nation to 
 the great Duke of Marlborough, for his military services. 
 
166 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 XII. 
 
 London Police — American Literature in England — English Au- 
 thors — Intelligence amongst the ' working classes' 1 — Cockney Pro- 
 nunciation — Prejudice against Americans. 
 
 The police of London is, perhaps, more efficient, 
 without being oppressive,, than any other in the world. In 
 Paris, the agents of the police are very numerous ; but 
 they act in secret service : they are spies on the people ; 
 and though I am not aware of having seen a policeman 
 there, it is extremely probable that I met them daily at the 
 cafes and dining-rooms. But in London, there is no dis- 
 guise. They are distinguished by a uniform suit of blue 
 and a cockade, and are to be seen at every turn and cor- 
 ner, day and night, always on the watch for the least show 
 of disturbance. There must be, at least, two or three 
 thousand of these men constantly employed for the seem- 
 ingly idle purpose of walking the streets. Disorder is con- 
 sequently rare, and is always checked in the. bud; and 
 drunken vagrants, if ever seen, are soon disposed of, for a 
 policeman is always within call. There is, also, a night 
 horse-patrol for the environs. Each of the public build- 
 ings is sentineled by one or more of the ' Life Guards,' 
 who are richly dressed in scarlet, with tremendous black, 
 bushy caps, a la grenadier Francaise. These valiant 
 troops also attend the members of the royal family, when 
 they visit public places. A part of them are mounted, 
 
Estimation of American Authors. 167 
 
 and have their head-quarters at the 'Horse Guards,' in 
 Whitehall and St. James's Park. 
 
 A knowledge of, and respect for, American Literature 
 appear to be gaining ground in England ; but still, very 
 few of our writers can boast much foreign fame ; and many 
 a name, and many a book, familiar to us, have scarcely 
 been heard of, in the land of Shakspeare. There are some 
 bright exceptions, however. It is superfluous to say, that 
 I often heard Irving and his writings spoken of with 
 enthusiasm ; and the early novels, especially of Cooper, 
 stand as high in popular favor throughout Europe, as they 
 ever did at home. But the English are disposed, it would 
 seem, to claim these two writers as their own; many, at 
 least, never allude to them as American. The essays of 
 Dr. Channing have attained a wide celebrity in Great 
 Britain. I have seen no less than three rival editions. 
 Add to these three names those of Washington and 
 Franklin, and you can scarcely mention another Ameri- 
 can name which enjoys a thorough European reputation. 
 A number of our books have been republished, it is true, 
 and are known to some extent. I saw English editions of 
 one or more of the works of Miss Sedgewick, Paulding, 
 Simms, Flint, Fay, and Dr. Bird. Ouy poets they are but 
 little acquainted with. Mr. Irving, you know, endorsed a 
 London edition of Bryant, and Barry Cornwall conferred 
 the same honor on Willis, whose prose sketches in the 
 magazines, &c, have been highly praised here. lie has 
 certainly written himself into considerable notoriety. 
 Percival's poems were printed in England several years 
 
168 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 since. Some of Halleck's, and others, are well known 
 through the various " specimens of American poets." The 
 classical text-books on oriental and biblical literature, from 
 Andover, Cambridge, etc., are re-printed, and considered 
 high authority by English scholars and critics. Several 
 American books, of a useful and practical character, such 
 as Abbott's ' Young Christian,' Mrs. Child's " Frugal 
 Housewife,' etc., have had an immense sale in England and 
 Scotland. At least twenty thousand copies of each of the 
 two mentioned have been sold in the kingdom. The 
 sneering question of the Quarterly, ' Who reads an Amer- 
 ican book V is no longer asked ; but English prejudice is 
 yet slow to admit that ' any good thing can come out of 
 Nazareth.' I was told by a London publisher, that if an 
 American book were re-printed, it would be bad policy to 
 acknowledge its origin. I know several instances of our 
 books having been published in London and Glasgow as 
 original, and without a word of the source, or any altera- 
 tion, except the omission of local names, by which they 
 might have been detected ! In one case, an English copy 
 of a book thus re-printed, verbatim,, except the title, was 
 received by a New-York house, published as an English 
 work, and one thousand copies were sold, before it was dis- 
 covered that the copy-right belonged to the author and 
 publisher in Philadelphia ! * * * * A few of our higher 
 periodicals are favorably known here. Silliman's ' Jour- 
 nal of Science' is appreciated and praised by scientific 
 men throughout Europe ; and there are in London about 
 one hundred fifty subscribers to the North American Re- 
 
A few of the English Literati. 169 
 
 view, a work which has done more than all others to ele- 
 vate our literary character in the estimation of foreign 
 critics. 
 
 You will ask perhaps if I have met with any of the 
 English literati since I have been here. At the counting- 
 rooms of their publishers, I have been fortunate enough to 
 see Wordsworth, James, the novelist, and Rogers, the 
 poet. Wordsworth, the 'high-priest of nature,' as you 
 once called him, is apparently about fifty-five years of age ; 
 he is tall and rather thin, and he looks unassuming and 
 benevolent. Rogers, the rare instance of a wealthy- 
 banker poet, is now quite advanced, being over seventy- 
 six. He seems to be much respected. G. R. P. James, 
 on whom ' has fallen the mantle of Scott,' as some of the 
 puffers said, is a young man, active, and good-look- 
 ing. He seems to be something of a courtier, as his his- 
 torical romances indicate ; and he has recently been 
 appointed 'historiographer to his majesty.' I told you 
 that I brought a letter to Sergeant Talfourd, the author 
 of that most polished and elegant of modern dramas, * Ion.' 
 The sergeant is rather small, very neat in his dress, and 
 business-like in his manner. As a barrister, his reputa- 
 tion is of the highest stamp, and it was probably this pro- 
 fitable practice of his profession which induced him to de- 
 cline his late appointment of Recorder of the city of 
 Oxford. When ' Ion' was first performed the other even- 
 ing for Macready's benefit, (that great tragedian, who 
 must be at least sixty, taking the part of the youthful hero, 
 with Ellen Tree as Clemanthc,) Talfourd was there, with 
 15 
 
170 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 his friends Wordsworth, Walter Savage Landor, 
 Miss Mitford, etc. The performance was of course 
 warmly applauded, and the author being called for, was 
 greeted with great enthusiasm. Mrs. Jameson, whose 
 charming ♦ Characteristics of Women' you esteem so 
 much, is just about embarking, as she tells me, for New- 
 York, so I need not discourse of her. 
 
 A few days since I was introduced to Murray, the 
 celebrated publisher, whose name has been so closely iden- 
 tified with the literature of the last twenty years. His 
 portrait in ' Finden's Byron Illustrations,' is very correct. 
 His contracts with authors, as well as those of Constable, 
 his distinguished contemporary of Edinburgh, are a suffi- 
 cient refutation of the charge often made against publish- 
 ers, that they are illiberal and over-reaching. — Look at 
 the list of payments to Scott and Byron for the copy-rights 
 of their works, and say, if you can, that successful authors 
 are never properly remunerated. I was not a little curi- 
 ous to see Murray and his sanctum-sanctorum, where the 
 literary lions are wont to meet. He has two saloons over 
 the business office, appropriated for this purpose, elegantly 
 fitted up, with choice books of illustrations, etc., to amuse 
 the loungers. In these rooms are fine portraits of Scott, 
 Byron, Crabbe, Moore, Gifford, Murray himself, the north- 
 ern navigators, (Parry, Franklin, Ross, etc.,) and several 
 others. Murray is a high tory in politics and practice ; 
 he seems to be on intimate terms with titled personages, 
 and lives himself in aristocratic style. 
 
 You are familiar with the names of that extensive firm, 
 
Distinguished Publishers, 171 
 
 11 Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green & Longmans." 
 This has been for many years one of the most enterprising 
 and celebrated publishing houses in the world. The 
 members of it are all gentlemen of the highest respecta- 
 bility, and two or three of them are said to be quite wealthy. 
 I have had the pleasure several times of dining with the 
 whole firm together, save the elder Longman, who has 
 now retired from active business. Mr. Rees* was inti- 
 mate with Sir Walter Scott from his boyhood, and he told 
 me several interesting things of him, suggested by a full 
 length portrait of the poet in the dining-room, painted at 
 the age of 25. 
 
 Pickering and the Oxonian Talboys you are acquainted 
 with through the medium of their publications, which dis- 
 play their classical taste as much in selecting materials as 
 in putting them in a neat and elegant form. Mr. Picker- 
 ing is styled the ' modern Aldus,' and he ' treads in the 
 footsteps of his illustrious predecessor.' Mr. Talboys is 
 noted for his refined taste and judgement, and is doubtless 
 thoroughly educated — perhaps partly by himself. At 
 least, it is rather remarkable that he should have acquired 
 the German language within a few years past, sufficiently 
 to enable him to translate those elaborate historical works 
 of E leer en, Wachsmuth, Ritter, &c. When will our pub- 
 lishers be learned and industrious enough to perform such 
 tasks ? 
 
 The working classes, and even the ' tradesmen' of 
 England, as well as I could judge, arc far from being so 
 
 * This estimable and kind-hearted man died since my return. 
 
172 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 well informed as those of the United States. One of the 
 most obvious reasons is, the comparatively high price of 
 books and newspapers in England, which places these lux- 
 uries beyond the reach of such as gain the scanty pittance 
 of their daily bread by the sweat of their brow. Many, 
 even those who may be said to belong to the middle 
 classes, appear to have access to newspapers only at the 
 public dining-rooms ; and as to the publications of the day, 
 they are well content with the loan of them from a circu- 
 lating library, for nearly as much as the whole book may 
 be bought for in New- York. How many of the thousands 
 among us who get the last novel of Bulwer, James, or 
 Marryatt, for the trifling sum of fifty cents, would make 
 the purchase, if they had to pay one pound eleven shillings 
 and sixpence, or seven dollars, as in London ? New novels 
 can only be afforded there by the librarian, the nobility, or 
 the millionaire. But with us, all classes have books ; and 
 the mechanic's apprentice, with the penny paper in his hand, 
 may discuss the politics of the day as wisely, perhaps, as 
 his master, or the president himself. 
 
 I would not assume a critical nicety in matters which 
 belong to more learned heads, but I must say, that the vul- 
 gar pronunciation of many words, not only among the 
 cockney tribe, but, according to Mr. Cooper,* reaching even 
 to the bishops, was continually grating on my ear, in 
 London. I inquired for Hoi bom, which seemed to be a 
 
 * Mr. C. was asked by a bishop if he knew Dr. Hubbart, in New- 
 York, and was quite at fault, till he accidentally discovered that the 
 prelate referred to the late Bishop HobarU 
 
1 Clipping 1 and Coining of Words. 173 
 
 place unknown, until I learned that the English of it was 
 Hobun. Lombard, you must call Lumbud ; Warwick* 
 Warrick; Thames, Terns; Pall Mall, Pell-Mel/, and so 
 on. We have even the high authority of Lord Brougham, 
 or rather Lord Broom, for calling Birmingham Brumma- 
 gem. 1 really think that we Yankee rebels are far more loyal 
 to the king's English, than his majesty's liege subjects. 
 
 There are many words which the English use in quite 
 a different sense from ourselves, and many articles which 
 they call by a different, and often more appropriate name. 
 Every body knows that by a clever man, they mean a man 
 of genius and talent ; and a very clever man would be 
 with them a person of extraordinary celebrity ; whereas 
 we only apply the word to a good-natured * hail fellow, 
 well met.' The coachman would feel his dignity insulted, 
 if you called him driver ; and you should be careful to say 
 luggage instead of baggage, or there may be a whisper of 
 scandal. Nice is peculiarly an English word. Several of 
 our own coining having been endorsed in England, such as 
 talented, dutiable, etc. 
 
 The peasantry, and others of the lowest classes in Eng- 
 land, are a robust and hardy, but certainly an ignorant and 
 boorish race. Their highest enjoyment would seem to be 
 a horse-race, a mug of ale, or 'pot o' 'alf-and-'alf ;' and 
 they drink these brain-muddling beverages in prodigious 
 quantities. With their ale and roast bo f, it i- no wonder 
 that the English arc not of the lean kind ! 
 
 It is to be hoped that ignorance respecting the Ameri- 
 can people, and groundless prejudice against them, is daily 
 15» 
 
174 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 becoming less prevalent in England ; but a visiter from 
 the United States is yet often as much astonished as 
 amused, at the notions of the people there about us. A 
 traveller is always sure to fall in with conversible compan- 
 ions ; and it is gratifying to find on the way many agree- 
 able and intelligent persons, who, with but partial advances 
 on your part, will enter into your plans, and without im- 
 pertinent curiosity, will readily impart information, or ren- 
 der assistance. At Warwick, a few days after I first 
 landed at Liverpool, I met with a couple of gentlemen of 
 this stamp ; and, in the course of conversation, I mentioned 
 that 1 was an American. They both seemed surprised, 
 and remarked that I spoke English very well ; ' they should 
 never have taken me for an American ;* and gravely 
 inquired if ' the English language was usually spoken in 
 the United States.' These were evidently ' men of sub- 
 stance,' and they had just been complaining of the wretched 
 state of public education in England! I seldom confessed 
 that I was any other than 'a native born and bred,' but 
 whenever I did plead guilty of being an American, I 
 always observed an expression of wonder, if not of absolute 
 
 * I certainly never laid claim to purity of pronunciation, yet I might 
 have travelled from Land's End to Johnny Groats', without a suspicion 
 of being any other than a native of England. And there is probably 
 not a country in the world, great or small, in which there is so much 
 uniformity in dialect and accent, as in the United States. In the best 
 society of England, the language may be spoken more correctly than 
 it is on an average with us ; but in the mass of the people, (the Yan- 
 kee's 'I guess and calculate,' the Virginian's 'I reckon,' and a few 
 other sectional oddities excepted) the Americans unquestionably excel 
 on this point. 
 
Ignorance respecting America. 175 
 
 incredulity. It will scarcely be believed, but it is not more 
 strange than true, that many in this land of learning expect 
 to see in an ' American' a person of different color, habits, 
 and language, from themselves. They seem to apply the 
 word American only to the aborigines ; and the descend- 
 ants of those who have come from England, Scotland, or 
 other European countries, they consider as still belonging 
 to his ' father-land ;' and the mass of people in England 
 have the most vague and crude notions about matters and 
 things in this distant republic. Ten to one you may be 
 asked what State Virginia is in, or if there are * many In- 
 dians in New-York,' meaning the city. One good lady 
 had an idea that the Indians were black, and that they 
 were the same as our present slaves ! When the Ameri- 
 cans, in Parisjoined the English residents in congratulating 
 the king on his escape from assassination, one of the Eng- 
 lish committee proposed, that the republicans should appear 
 in their ' own court dress !' One would think, that with 
 the present facility of intercourse between the two coun- 
 tries, they might be better informed ; but it is certainly 
 the fact that, in the present 1836, you will hear blunders, 
 such as these specimens, from five persons out of eight, in 
 England, who have any thing to say concerning the United 
 States. 
 
176 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 JOURNEY TO PARIS. 
 
 Ride to Dover — The Channel — Boulogne — Diligence to the Capital 
 — ' First impressions of Paris' — Tuilleries — Champs Ely sees — 
 Arc de Triomphe — Gallery of the Louvre — Le Madeleine, etc. 
 
 Paris, Avgust, 1836. — After due deliberation respect- 
 ing the various routes, I chose the oldest and most fre- 
 quented, by Dover and Boulogne ; and in order to be in 
 Paris before Saturday evening, (that was Wednesday,) 
 took an outside seat in the night coach to Dover. It was 
 a fine evening, and as we rode out of London through 
 ' the main artery of the right hand of the world,' Charing- 
 Cross, down Whitehall and Parliament-street, over West- 
 minster bridge, and through the villages of Deptford and 
 Greenwich, I had a beautiful sunset view of the ' great 
 metropolis.' A glorious full-moon rose soon after we took 
 leave of the more dazzling luminary, and of course the 
 ride in such an evening was most agreeable. We passed 
 through Gravesend, a bustling and noted town on the 
 Thames, and our course lay for some distance along the 
 margin of the river. At eleven, we stopped for supper at 
 Rochester. The night which looked so promising, was 
 not to be very delightful ; a change came over the face of 
 it, in the shape of a cold, thick fog ; moreover, that use- 
 less and annoying animal, y'clept 'the guard,' kept us 
 awake by his fearful blasts on a large tin-horn ; and alto- 
 
Tour on the Continent. 177 
 
 gether, I was abundantly satisfied with my first experiment 
 in riding all night. Day -light came at last, just as we 
 were entering the ancient and honorable town of Canter- 
 bury, as weary pilgrims as ever went there in the days of 
 worthy old Chaucer. The cathedral is entirely surround- 
 ed by ordinary dwelling-houses, and the massive entrance 
 was at this hour of course closed. We could only get a 
 glimpse of its fine towers. At six A. M., we were set 
 down at the c Ship Hotel,' at Dover, and only had to pay 
 five shillings more than the regular fare, beside three shil- 
 lings to the guard, etc., for keeping us awake, and two 
 shillings more for porters, ladders, etc., to the boat, a pig- 
 my affair, y'clept the Britannia, on board of which we de- 
 scended, after a poor breakfast at the hotel ; and in a few 
 minutes we were rapidly receding from the ' white cliffs of 
 England.' The hills along this coast appear to be entirely 
 of chalk, and from a short distance, the shore looks as if 
 partly covered with snow. The castle and heights tower 
 above the town, and the latter give it the appearance of 
 our Brooklyn. The morning was brilliant and cloudless, 
 and the sea scarcely ruffled. So we glided over this far- 
 famed and much dreaded channel as gently as we should 
 cross from New- York to Jersey City, only taking some- 
 what longer time to do it. Before we had lost sight of 
 Dover, the coast of La Belle France' was very distinct ; 
 indeed the two coasts may always be seen from each other 
 in clear weather. We had three or four baskets of car- 
 rier-pigeons on board, which were liberated at intervals, to 
 announce our progress. They are used to communicate 
 
178 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 important intelligence, and never fail of arriving on either 
 side in about ten minutes.* 
 
 The distance from Dover to Boulogne is forty miles, 
 which we achieved in three hours and a half. Boulogne 
 is prettily situated on the open sea-coast, at the head of a 
 small bay. On an eminence near the town, is a conspicu- 
 ous monument, commenced by Napoleon to commemorate 
 his (intended) conquest of England, (!) and completed by 
 Louis XVIII,, to commemorate Napoleon's downfall ! 
 
 We sailed up between two long and excellent wood 
 piers, filled with expecting friends, porters, police, soldiers, 
 custom-house officers, etc., and stepping for the first time 
 on the soil of Europe, at least of the continent, I was 
 escorted by a companion through the eager crowd, amid 
 the clamorous calls of the commissioners, ' Hotel du Nord ? 
 Hotel D'Angleterre? Hotel D'Orleans? Portmanteau, 
 monsieur V At a little bureau on the quay our passports 
 were received, and we were permitted to proceed without 
 any personal examination, the commissioner of our hotel 
 (D'Orleans,) taking charge of our luggage, which he 
 1 passed' in an hour, without giving us a word of trouble ; 
 but we soon found we were not to escape vexations, for the 
 seats in the diligences had been engaged for four days to 
 come ! This is especially provoking, in such a place as 
 Boulogne. But repining avails not. 
 
 This is the second of ' Le Trois Jours,' and the tri- 
 colored flags are displayed from every house in town, giv- 
 
 * The death of Rothschild the banker, was thus announced a few 
 days since, with the simple words, " it est mort." 
 
Boulogne. 179 
 
 mg the streets a gay and lively face. Boulogne is a 
 remarkably clean and orderly place, and in this respect 
 forms a strong contrast to its rival, Calais. It is a famous 
 sea-bathing place, and, during the summer, English resi- 
 dents and visiters form one third of the whole population. 
 Indeed, the town is very a VAnglaise — more so, they say, 
 than any other in France. But still there is enough to 
 remind a novice that he is really in another country — in 
 the old world. The military on the docks and in every 
 street ; the poor women, bare-footed and bare-headed, per- 
 forming the labor of beasts of burthen, being in fact, the 
 public porters, and thankful for the, chance of carrying 
 your luggage for a few sous ; the incessant jabbering in a 
 strange tongue, (strange, alas ! to me.) for even the chil- 
 dren here, as one sagely remarked, ' talk very good 
 French ;' the streets without side-walks, and the pictur- 
 esque figures in them ; the immense clumsy diligences, 
 arriving and setting off in cautious pace ; the street harp- 
 ists and music-grinders, (of which we have abundant spe- 
 cimens ;) and sundry other petitioners for your spare 
 change, greeting you in pathetic and musical tones at every 
 turn of the street. The hotels form about one-fourth of all 
 the buildings of the town, and are all crowded. Mine host 
 has a summer pavilion on the banks of the sea, command- 
 ing an extensive view of the English coast, etc., and very 
 similar to that at Rockaway, (L. I.,) and to this we are 
 sent in a barouche to dine at the table d'hote, in a largo 
 airy hall, which accommodates one hundred or more. 
 The company to-day being mostly English, seemed rather 
 
180 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 awkward in this novel mode of dining ; and there was no 
 general conversation at the table. My neighbor, a raw 
 Berkshire youth, stared with astonishment when he found 
 I was not English, and still more so that I was an Ameri- 
 can, ' the first he had ever seen ;' and he looked on me with 
 something of the curiosity that one would inspect an 
 ourang-outang. The shore before the pavilion is covered 
 with little bathing-cars, which are drawn into the water 
 by horses, and there is a handsome assembly-hall near by, 
 for the bathers. After dinner, walked up to the ' barriers' 
 or ramparts, which surround an elevated part of the city, 
 and serve both for fortification and a public promenade. 
 The view from them is very fine. 
 
 Friday. — A rai.iy day, and the review and ceremonies 
 in the church are given up. Strangers at the hotels have 
 been invited by the mayor to a grand ball at the ' Salle du 
 Spectacle,' or theatre, this evening. A band of music at 
 the pavilion at dinner. Went to the theatre ; great crowd, 
 nine-tenths spectators ; much like our Masonic Hall balls, 
 except that there was no room to dance. The elite of the 
 town displayed their best, but the majority were English. 
 It was to be tres selecte, and has been the town-talk for a 
 week ; yet my companion said, with great surprise, that of 
 one of the prettiest of the dancers he had bought his gloves. 
 Made an appointment to meet him at Amiei/j cathedral at 
 five A. M. 
 
 Saturday. — A most vexatious mistake of my own has 
 lost me my seat again, and I must endure idleness and 
 ennui, in this purgatory, twenty-four hours longer. Hor- 
 
Ride from Boulogne to Paris. 181 
 
 rors ! What shall I do ? Wandered into a museum, and 
 killed an hour. Bought * Diary of Desennuyee ;' miser- 
 able trash ! Changed it for Mrs. Trollope's ' Paris and 
 the Parisians ;' precious little better. The longest day I 
 have known these two years J 
 
 August 31st. — Found myself actually mounted on the 
 rotonde of a French diligence, and proceeding, at the pace 
 of six or seven miles an hour, toward Paris. Splendid 
 morning ; and the roads are thoroughly sprinkled by the 
 late rain. The diligences of this line have been recently 
 modified a-VAnglaise, but they are yet far inferior in neat- 
 ness and expedition. This one has two outside rear 
 seats, or the rotonde ; the banquette, over the conducteur's 
 seat in front ; and the interior, divided into three apart- 
 ments. The front is called the coupe, and is the highest 
 price. The conducteur is a respectable personage, who 
 overlooks the whole team, delivers the passports, etc., and 
 the fee to him, and the postilion, is always regular, and 
 paid in advance. (The fees to waiters at hotels in France 
 are always charged in the bills ; so there is one annoyance 
 well rid of.) 
 
 The load to Paris, by Montreuil, Abbeville, and Beau- 
 vais, is flat, stale, and unprofitable. There is little to be 
 seen but wheat-fields and pastures, and here and there a 
 bit of a hut, with the philanthropic announcement, ' Loge 
 au pied et au cheval ;' which is equivalent, I presume, to 
 the similar English establishments' sign, * Entertainment 
 for man and horse.' Montreuil is an antique and strongly 
 
 16 
 
182 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 fortified town, entirely surrounded by a high wall, and sev- 
 eral outposts. Here we stopped to dine. Abbeville, the 
 next, is the largest town on the route, and quite continental 
 in its appearance. It was a fete-day, and the whole pop- 
 ulation were amusing themselves in the streets, some with 
 a dancing monkey, others listening to a buffoon, or impro- 
 visatrice. Then we passed through Airaines, Granvil- 
 liers, and Marseille to Beauvais, famous for its siege in 
 1472, by the Duke of Burgundy, which was raised by the 
 heroic Jean Hanchette, whose memory is still honored by 
 an annual festival. Here we took a good breakfast, for 
 which our night ride had created an excellent appetite. 
 Passing next through the small villages of Puiseux, and 
 Blaumont-sur-Oise, we came to St. Dennis, the burial- 
 place of the kings of France, and from thence proceeded 
 through a broad, straight, dusty avenue, to the capital, 
 without having any general view ; and were set down at 
 the bureaux of the Messageries Royal, where our luggage 
 was slightly examined, and I was then escorted by a young 
 companion, to the Hotel De Lille et d'Albion, opposite the 
 Palais Royal. 
 
 Dined at the table d'hote, with a company of thirty, all 
 English. Got a cab and rode over one of the bridges to 
 find my quondam Yankee doctor. Find it necessary to be 
 in earnest now about learning French. My ignorance is 
 rather awkward, but still it is not impossible to make my- 
 self understood ; and ' necessity is the mother of inven- 
 tion.' 
 
1 First Impressions' of Paris. 183 
 
 2d. — Hired a guide, or interpreter, to show me the 
 localities, and assist me in my business. In the city, in 
 general, I am disappointed. The narrow, filthy streets, 
 with gutters in the centre, and without side-walks, and the 
 antique and irregular buildings, do not realize my notions 
 of gay, elegant Paris. But the extent and magnificence of 
 the public buildings, palaces, gardens, parks, boulevards, 
 etc., are enough to atone for the dirty streets. The gen- 
 eral view of the city, from one of the centre bridges, (the 
 atmosphere being wonderfully clear and transparent,) is 
 grand and imposing in the extreme. The luxurious and 
 superb architecture of the Louvre, Tuilleries, Luxembourg, 
 and Palais Royal, and the immense extent, as well as the 
 great beauty and elegance, of the gardens and parks, con- 
 nected with these palaces, must astonish even the most 
 sanguine. 
 
 4th. — Took lodgings with Dr, in Rue D'Enfer, 
 
 opposite the garden of the Luxembourg, for three objects, 
 namely : to have a guide to the city ; to learn French 
 from him and the talkative landlady, and for economy's 
 sake, for I pay but seven and a half francs a week for a 
 snug room with attendance, in a good situation, and can 
 have breakfast (such as it is) for fifteen sous.* 
 
 6th. — Having disposed of most of my business, I com- 
 menced ' lionizing.' First, I walked over Pont des Arts, 
 
 * I am particular in the mention of these pecuniary facts, believing 
 that they will be useful to American leaders, who may contemplate 
 going abroad. 
 
184 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 through the Louvre and the Tuilleries, to the Gardens of 
 the Tuilleries, which I need not say, are laid out on a scale 
 of great extent and magnificence, and are profusely 
 adorned with fine statues, and groups in bronze and mar- 
 ble. Every one must admire the taste and munificence 
 displayed in the varied avenues of this fairy spot. And 
 then to expose those valuable and exquisite works of art so 
 freely and publicly to all classes and conditions of the 
 populace, and yet no mutilation or injury to thern, is even 
 thought of. Americans and Britons may well wonder at 
 it, and go and do likewise. It is perhaps this very liber- 
 ality in the display of the fine arts to the ' common people,' 
 which creates and promotes among them such instinctive 
 politeness, as well as taste and refinement. Although 
 thousands and tens of thousands are admitted at all times 
 to these public places, there is no jostling and crowding 
 each other, and rarely the least disorder of any kind. 
 Passed through Place de la Concorde, (late Place Louis 
 XVI.,) and the Champs Elysees, where they were remo- 
 ving the lamps, etc., used in the late fete of the three days, 
 and walked up the broad and noble avenue to the triumphal 
 arch de L'Etoile, which was completed a few days since, 
 and is one of the most conspicuous, and most admired 
 ornaments of the capital. I will send you a printed 
 description, which will save me a great many words. 
 Suffice it to say, that the most extravagant epithets will 
 not give you too high an idea of it. It is of white marble, 
 adorned with exquisite bas-reliefs, and is so immense in 
 
Tuilleries — VEtoile — Louvre — Madeleine. 185 
 
 extent and height, that from the Pont Neuf, about three 
 miles distant, it is conspicuous far above the tall trees of 
 the Champs Elysees, and all the surrounding objects. 
 
 Returned to the Louvre, and spent the forenoon in its 
 celebrated Musee and Gallery of Paintings. This gallery 
 is one thousand three hundred and thirty feet long, and 
 would reach from Broadway to Wooster-street ! The 
 ceiling is oval, and is elegantly gilded and adorned. The 
 perspective of the gallery is much like that of Thames 
 Tunnel, and the farther end appears to be only three or 
 four feet high. As to the paintings, I have marked in the 
 catalogue those which particularly struck me, and no far- 
 ther description would be worth while. The gallery of 
 ancient sculpture is of course intensely interesting, and con- 
 tains one of the finest collections in the world. (See Ma- 
 dame Starke.) Walked up to the Boulevards, which, 
 with Rue Rivoli, Rue Castiglione, and perhaps two or 
 three others, are the only streets which do credit to the 
 city. The Boulevards are quite modern ; and when the 
 trees are matured, and the building finished, they will be 
 much more beautiful than now. The Boulevard des Ital- 
 iens is the handsomest. In the Boulevard Conti, is the 
 superb church of St. Madeliene, the interior of which is 
 not yet completed. It is on the model of a Grecian tem- 
 ple, of white marble, surrounded with exquisite Corinthian 
 pillars, and ornamented with bas-reliefs, and is doubtless 
 the largest and most costly building of the Corinthian 
 order at present existing. It was commenced by Napo- 
 16* 
 
186 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 leon as a grand national temple, and the nation has paid 
 liberally for it. Gorgeous as it is in design and execu- 
 tion, the architecture is from the best classic models, 
 worthy of the palmy days of Athens and Sparta. In the 
 Place Vendome, near by, is the celebrated column (on the 
 model of Trajan's,) erected by Napoleon to commemorate 
 his victories. What a gigantic mind was Napoleon's ! It 
 is displayed as much in the monuments, edifices, and pub- 
 lic works, which he planned and executed, as in his ambi- 
 tious projects for the conquest of Europe. This column is 
 made of cannon taken in his battles, and you must see it, 
 in order to understand the difficulty as well as grandeur of 
 such a project. 
 
 Returned to my room before dark ; for recent examples 
 have shown, that it is not quite safe to be out alone, late in 
 the evening, in the streets of Paris. Several persons have 
 been attacked and robbed, and one or two killed, in this 
 neighborhood, within a few days. 
 
Napoleon's Column — St. Sulpice. 187 
 
 XIV. 
 
 PARIS, CONTINUED. 
 
 St. Sulpice— Versailles— Palace and Gardens— King of Naples- 
 Queen and Royal Family of France— Palais Royal— St. Roche 
 —Jar din des Plants— Gallery of the Luxembourg— Notre Dame 
 —Palais de Justice— Bibliothlque du Roi— Louis Philippe— Les 
 Gobelins— The Pantheon— Taglioni—Les Invalides— Chamber of 
 Deputies— Pere la Chaise— Prince Czartoryski — Beauty, etc. etc. 
 
 Sunday. — Went to St. Sulpice, which is ranked as the 
 second church in Paris, next to Notre Dame. It is Ro- 
 man Catholic, of course, for there are but four or five Pro- 
 testant churches in all Paris ! The front of St. Sulpice is 
 grand and imposing, but the rest is not particularly so. 
 The interior is spacious and lofty, but far less elaborately 
 finished and decorated than the cathedrals of England. 
 There are large niches around the walls, inclosed with a 
 railing, and adorned with fine paintings, an altar, etc., 
 which seemed to be private or family chapels. Several 
 companies of children, apparently belonging to schools, 
 were led into the church by priests in black cloth robes. 
 These priests were reading the service in various parts of 
 the church, and in the nitches, to groups often or twenty ; 
 but the principal one was before the grand altar, which is 
 gorgeous in design and decoration. 
 
 7th. — Went to Versailles, where there was to be a 
 grand review, etc. The doctor, a medical student, a New. 
 
188 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Orleans gentleman, and myself, took a hack together, and 
 started off about eleven o'clock. All the world had gone 
 or were going ; the vehicles of all sorts, from the superb 
 barouche of the nobility, to the go-cart of the market 
 folks, were innumerable. Rode along the Quai des Tuil- 
 leries and the Champs Elysees. Passed St. Cloud, the 
 favorite residence of Napoleon, and the scene of the blood- 
 less revolution which gave him the government of France. 
 Near the palace is a column for telegraphs, by which Na- 
 poleon communicated with Paris. A certain light was a 
 signal that he would see nobody. Neither lord nor lady 
 must approach. 
 
 Arrived at Versailles at one. Review just over ! The 
 palace here is immensity personified. It can hardly be 
 comprehended. From the magnificent gardens, the view 
 of it is superb. These gardens will more than realize the 
 most brilliant fairy scene of the Arabian Nights. They 
 extend several miles in each direction ; laid out with the 
 most perfect neatness and order ; and this is their only fault. 
 There is too much trimming— too much exactness. If 
 they were a little more like the wild beauty of nature, they 
 would please my eye as well. Statuary, of all sorts, is 
 liberally disposed throughout these vast grounds ; noble 
 avenues intersect each other at half-angles in the gardens 
 and park ; and in these the trees are so placed and trimmed 
 as to form a grand triumphal arch ; while the squares be- 
 tween are occupied by fountains, curiously devised, or by 
 a bed of flowers. 
 
Fete Day at Versailles — Royalty. 189 
 
 1 All the world and his wife ' were there. Suddenly, 
 there was a pressing toward one of the grand avenues. It 
 was to see the King of Naples, who is now here on a visit 
 to his aunt, the Queen of the French. The king and the 
 French queen were in an open car, accompanied by two 
 good-looking youths, about sixteen and eighteen, (the Dukes 
 of Nemours and Orleans,) and the two princesses, rather 
 pretty, and dressed with taste and marked simplicity. An 
 elderly gentleman, next to the King of Naples, was said 
 to be a minister or guardian, and he looks as if he needed 
 one. He is a mustachoed, dandyish-looking fellow, and 
 stared through his quizzing glass in a style quite amusing. 
 The people took off their hats as the car passed, but there 
 was not a whisper of applause or enthusiasm. 
 
 On our return, just as we stopped at the park of St. 
 Cloud, the French king's carriage came up, kept as close 
 as a prison ; and in a few minutes, the queen and he of 
 Naples arrived, and stopped in the park to change horses ; 
 so we had a chance to scan them all very closely. The 
 queen might have been handsome once, but she certainly 
 is not now. She bowed repeatedly to some one by the 
 carriage ; but not a word was uttered, which appeared very 
 strange. 
 
 My way to Galignani's reading room, every morning, 
 is through the portico of the hall of the celebrated French 
 Institute, over the Pont des Arts, and through the quad- 
 rangles of the Louvre and Palais Royal. What a world 
 
190 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 in miniature, (and not on a very small scale either,) is 
 this Palais Royal ! A palace that would cover two or three 
 of our squares, in the heart of the city, was converted by 
 its proprietor, the late Duke of Orleans, into an immense 
 bazaar; the entrance from every part being from the in- 
 terior court, which is a long promenade of itself, adorned 
 with rows of trees, fountains, and gardens. The lower 
 floor of the palace is divided into stores, in the arcade 
 fashion, in which are displayed every article, almost, which 
 can be imagined or desired, for use or ornament. The 
 jewellers are the most numerous. There are, I should 
 think, at least three or four hundred of these shops on the 
 first floor, and they each rent for four thousand francs per 
 annum. The second floor is occupied by cafes, reading- 
 rooms, and by gambling establishments, or ■ hells,' and the 
 upper stories by characters of all sorts, male and female. 
 In short, there is a specimen of every thing, good and bad, 
 in this Palais Royal ; and even the bad is made so alluring 
 and dazzling, that, altogether, it is no very difficult matter 
 for an unwary novice there to rid himself of his superfluous 
 cash. The imposing coup d'ozil of the palace and gardens 
 you can imagine better from the prints, than from any de- 
 scription. 
 
 The Bourse or Exchange stands in the centre of a 
 large square, and is one of the finest modern edifices in 
 Paris. This, like the ' Madeleine ' is in the Grecian style, 
 of white marble, supported on all sides by massive pillars. 
 
Palais Royal — Bourse — St. Roch. 191 
 
 The interior is richly decorated. On the ceiling of the 
 public hall, there are emblematical paintings, representing 
 Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. 
 
 Near the Bourse, is the Halle au Ble, an immense cir- 
 cular building, the dome of which is nearly as large as 
 that of the Pantheon at Rome. 
 
 In my ramble to-day, I dropped into a church, which 
 I found to be that of Saint Roch, one of the most beautiful in 
 Paris. Like Saint Sulpice, it has numerous private altars in 
 the inclosures around the walls, which are adorned with 
 fine paintings. Near the great altar, there is a represen- 
 tation of the sepulchre, made with real stones, and rough- 
 ly placed in the supposed manner of the original, and a 
 group of statuary, as large as life, representing the entomb- 
 ment. It is so well done, that the credulous devotees who 
 were kneeling before it seemed to think it was reality. 
 Near it is a representation of Mount Calvary and the Cru- 
 cifixion, similarly contrived. 
 
 In the aisle of Saint Roch, I met an English lady, and 
 her three daughters, whom I had seen at Boulogne. Hav- 
 ing travelled with the lady's husband, but not having been 
 formally introduced, I passed without speaking to them. 
 The lady turned and spoke to me, and politely invited me 
 to call at her hotel. I mention this, as proving that the 
 English are not always so tenacious about formal introduc- 
 tions as they have been represented. 
 
 9th. — Walked before breakfast to the Jardin des Plants, 
 where botanical students have the privilege of studying all 
 
192 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 the immense variety of specimens which are there display- 
 ed, in a garden of three-fourths of a mile long. A small 
 hill in the centre is surmounted by a little bronze temple, 
 from which there is a good prospect. On this hill are two 
 or three Cedars of Lebanon, which are esteemed very rare 
 and valuable ; it is a beautiful tree, and quite oriental. 
 Beside the plants in this establishment, there is a mena- 
 gerie, a museum of botany and natural history, etc. 
 
 Visited the gallery of the Luxembourg, which is ap- 
 propriated for paintings and sculpture by living artists. It 
 was a rich treat. See catalogue. The garden of the Lux- 
 embourg is a beautiful promenade, but not equal to that of 
 the Tuilleries. Nothing can exceed the gayety and bril- 
 liancy of the scene in these gardens at sunset, and early in 
 the evening, when the thousands are enjoying the cool re- 
 freshing air, or admiring the fountains and statues. In 
 the Tuilleries, a sculpture in bronze has been lately put up, 
 representing a lion crushing a viper or serpent. It seems 
 to attract much attention, as being emblematical of a strong 
 government putting down all insurrectionary vipers. 
 
 Visited Notre-Dame. The interior architecture will 
 not compare with that of York Minster, and other English 
 cathedrals, but it has a lighter and more cheerful appear- 
 ance. It is abundantly decorated with paintings, some of 
 which are very superior. A company of priests were 
 chanting in the choir, in the most doleful manner imagin- 
 able. Ascended by four hundred steps to the top of the 
 towers, from which there is a fine view of Paris and the 
 
Paris: Royal Library — Review. 193 
 
 environs. The clearness of the atmosphere renders the 
 view much better than that from Saint Paul's. The Pa- 
 lais de Justice, where the courts, etc., are held, is near 
 Notre Dame, on the lie de Cite. The Court of Cassation 
 are now engaged in the trial of persons lately arrested for 
 supposed treasonable plots. Poor Louis Philippe ! thine is 
 a throne of thorns ! Thou darest not show thyself in public, 
 lest thy life should be forfeited ! Who does not envy thee ? 
 And yet, I have never learned that the king has merited 
 these attempts on his life. The government, in spite of 
 some severe laws, has been as liberal as the character of 
 the people would justify. 
 
 The Bibliuthtque du Roi contains eight hundred thou- 
 sand volumes, the largest library in the world. I noticed 
 a work on the topography, etc., of France, alone, in two 
 hundred and nine large folio volumes ! Connected with 
 the library, is an immense collection of prints, and an- 
 tique medals, cameos, gems, etc. I saw the armor of the 
 Duke of Sully, Henry IV., and several of the French gene- 
 rals ; manuscript original letters of Racine, Moliere, Bos- 
 suet, Boileau, Voltaire, Fenelon, Rousseau, etc. ; manu- 
 scripts written in the third, fourth, and fifth centuries, beauti- 
 fully illuminated ; manuscripts in Turkish Arabic, Coptic, 
 Egyptian, etc., and paintings from the ruins of Thebes, 
 probably done before Christ. 
 
 The papers announced a review of the troops before the 
 Tuilleries, by the King and the King of Naples, but it was 
 
 17 
 
194 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 changed to the Champs Elysees, and the King of France 
 was not present. lie is said to be very courageous him- 
 self, and it is only the urgent entreaties of his family and 
 his ministers which keep him so close. He wished to have 
 the review on the 29th, but they would not permit him. 
 Just as 1 was leaving the Garden of the Tuilleries, the 
 king arrived in a coach-and-six, preceded by a courier, and 
 escorted by a party of dragoons. He looked out of the 
 carriage and bowed, and I had a good opportunity to see 
 him. The face was quite natural, and very much like the 
 prints. 
 
 This afternoon I visited one of the most curious and in- 
 teresting sights in Paris, the manufactory of the celebrated 
 Gobelin Tapestry, where those copies of the Cartoons of 
 Raphael, exhibited in New- York, were made. The ope- 
 ration appears perfectly simple, and yet not very easy to 
 be learned. The picture to be copied is hung on the wall 
 behind the loom ; the weaver sits with his back to it, and 
 works on the back of the tapestry. It is done entirely by 
 hand, and of course it is very slow work, six years being 
 spent on one piece. There are about ten or twelve rooms, 
 some of them containing two or three looms. Several of 
 the pieces now on the looms are very beautiful, but rather 
 too costly for any but kings and millionaires. Annexed to 
 the tapestry rooms, there is a manufactory of carpets of a 
 most princely description, uniting the thickness and dura- 
 bility of the Turkey carpets, with the softness and elegance 
 
Paris: Les Gobelins — Pantheon — Taglioni. 195 
 
 of the Wilton. The colors and patterns are really superb. 
 The carpets are always made in one piece. Tnese, also, 
 are such as the most wealthy only can buy. 
 
 The Pantheon, once called the Church of Saint Gene- 
 vieve, is a sort of national monument. It is an elegant 
 building, in the form of a cross, supported within and with- 
 out by Corinthian pillars. The dome is particularly lofty 
 and beautiful. On the walls, are four gilt tablets, on which 
 are inscribed the names of two hundred and eighty-seven 
 citizens, killed in the revolution of ]630. The crypt is 
 fitted for the purpose of receiving monuments of distinguish- 
 ed persons. Our guide, with a lantern, escorted us to this 
 subterranean region, ' where we meditated among the tombs.' 
 Suddenly he came to a statue, and raising the lantern to 
 the face, discovered to us features expressing a scornful 
 sneer, which made me start. It was a statue of Voltaire. 
 While there, another party came in, preceded by the guide 
 anJ lantern, and dodging every now and then from behind 
 the pillars of the crypt; it seemed like being in the regions 
 of the dead. 
 
 In the evening, I went to see the celebrated Taglioni, 
 at the Academic Royale de Musiquc, being her first appear- 
 ance for some time. So eager were the multitude lor seats 
 that the doors were blockaded by hundreds, several hours 
 before they were opened. The house is very large and 
 very elegant — And what a brilliant array of dancing 
 nymphs in the ballet; surely Taglioni herself cannot sur- 
 pass those fairy creatures. Ah! here she comes, — and 
 
196 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 what a bound was that ! — Surely she is not of flesh and 
 blood! — Such airy lightness — such exquisite grace — the 
 very ' poetry of motion.' " She's quite a spry little thing," 
 says the worthy doctor, " but I rather guess it Vint worth 
 while to be squeezed to death for the sake of seeing a gal 
 hop and skip ever so well." 
 
 Visited an exhibition of Sevres porcelain ; should like 
 to send home a set, but it rather exceeds my purse. The 
 Hotel des Invalides, is the largest building in Paris, if not 
 in the world. It is an asylum for maimed and superan- 
 nuated soldiers. The chapel connected with it, and espe- 
 cially the dome, is much admired, and is considered the 
 finest thing of the kind in Paris. The old soldiers of Na- 
 poleon are here to be seen in their cocked hats and military 
 dress ; some with one arm, others minus a leg. They are 
 all well taken care of, and have nothing to do. Near the 
 Invalides, is the Ecole Militaire, and the Champs de Mars, 
 where one hundred and fifty thousand men have been pa- 
 raded. 
 
 On the banks of the river, facing the Place de Concord, 
 is the Palace of the Chamber of Deputies, or Palace Bour- 
 bon. The Hall of Sitting is in the form of an amphithe- 
 atre, the seats raised above each other. It is very elegant, 
 and even gay, in its decorations. The front benches are 
 inscribed Ministres. The session of the chamber does not 
 commence till winter. We were also shown the other 
 apartments of the palace. Next to this is the Palace of 
 the Legion of Honor, and farther on is the Hotel des Mon- 
 
Paris : Les Invalides, etc. — Pere la Chaise. 197 
 
 naies, or Mint. This afternoon, at five o'clock, stepped 
 into an omnibus, in order to be at Pere La Chaise at sun- 
 set. It is on an eminence near the barriers of the city. 
 The street which leads to it was filled with women, who 
 were making and selling those yellow wreaths, (of which 
 I send you a specimen,) for the visiters to decorate the 
 tombs of their friends. Great numbers of these were placed 
 on the tombs, some fresh, and others faded and dried. The 
 cemetery is on the same plan as that at Mount Auburn, or 
 rather Mount Auburn is on the plan of this, but preferable 
 in situation, and much more beautiful in its arrangement. 
 There are no less than thirty thousand tombs here, display- 
 ing every variet)' of taste and whim in the style and pat- 
 tern, and filling a space of some hundred acres, the walks 
 through which form quite a labyrinth, insomuch that the 
 guides charge three francs to go through it, which I did not 
 choose to pay. I found the tombs of Abelard and Heloise, 
 Moliere and La Fontaine (which are side by side, and verj- 
 simple, and covered with names of visiting scribblers,) 
 Rousseau, La Bruyere, La Place, (the author of Meca- 
 nique Celeste,) Moreau, Volney, (a plain pyramid,) and 
 several other distinguished names. Many of the monu- 
 ments are very splendid, particularly that of General Foy, 
 and others, which I have forgotten. The inscriptions are 
 as various as the monuments. Some are very simple : a 
 mon pere ;' ' a notre cher ami ;' ■ a notre petite Julie,' etc. 
 Many of the monuments are little chapels, with altars, can- 
 dles, chairs, etc., and some even with paintings; having an 
 
 17* 
 
198 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 iron door, of open work, so that you can look in and see 
 the taste and superstition of the founder. It requires a 
 whole day, at least, to take even a passing view of all the 
 monuments. The view from the highest ground in the ce- 
 metery is very fine. 
 
 12th. I had sent a note to Prince Czartoryski, de- 
 siring to know if it was his pleasure that I should call on 
 him. This morning I received a polite and elegantly- writ- 
 ten note, in French, saying : * Le Prince Czartoryski pre. 
 
 sente ses complimens a Mr. , et a'sempresse de le pre- 
 
 venir qu'il aura le plaisir de l'attendre chez soi, demain a 
 11 h. dans la matinee. Co 10 Aout, 1836. 25 Faubourg 
 du Roule.' 
 
 I did not receive it till the day after that designated, but 
 still I went. There did not seem to be even a porter or a 
 servant on the premises. An old man escorted me up stairs, 
 and knocking, the door opened where a good looking gentle- 
 man was writing. I was at a loss to know whether he was 
 the prince or not, but he seemed to expect me. ' Mon- 
 sieur ?' ' Oui, monsieur.' He escorted me to the next 
 
 room, and took my card into another. In a few minutes, 
 a noble-looking man, about fifty-five, came out, and taking 
 
 my hand, was ' very glad to see Mr. ;' ' walk in ;' and 
 
 so I was seated on a plain gingham-covered sofa, with the 
 Prince Czartoryski. The apartments, furniture, etc., are 
 plain almost to meanness, and the prince's pantaloons them- 
 selves looked as if they had been washed five or six times ; 
 a fact which I consider highly creditable to him. He has 
 
Paris: Polish Prince Czartory ski. 199 
 
 decidedly one of the finest, noblest countenances 1 ever 
 saw. It is expressive at once of dignity, energy, and be- 
 nevolence. It indicates a contempt of every thing mean. 
 
 I must confess I felt rather awkward in this my first 
 tete-a-tete with a prince. It was so hard to have to say 
 4 your highness ' at every sentence, that 1 finally dropped 
 it entirely for the plain republican ' Sir.' He evidently 
 expects this form, but does not insist upon it. He inquired 
 about the condition of his countrymen in the United States ; 
 if they had obtained employment ; if they conducted them- 
 selves well ; what gentlemen had interested themselves for 
 them. I mentioned among others, our respected and mu- 
 nificent fellow citizen S. V. S. Wilder, Esq., and he told 
 the secretary to take his address. He asked if any asso- 
 ciation for the Poles existed in New-York, and if one could 
 not be formed ; if the Americans were not rather partial 
 to Russia, and thought she had done right. This I answer- 
 ed very warmly, and said that, on the contrary, our coun- 
 try had watched with astonishment the conduct of the other 
 powers of Europe in not interfering in behalf of Poland. 
 That the wrongs of Poland were a favorite theme for our 
 school-boys and girls, declamations. 
 
 After a conversation of half an hour or more, I took 
 leave, the prince inviting me very cordially to call on him 
 when I returned to Paris. The morning papers state that 
 4 the government (of France) yesterday made an applica- 
 tion to Prince Czartoryski for three hundred Poles to goto 
 Spain' — for which ' party,' I did not notice. 
 
200 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 I have marvelled at nothing more, in Paris, than the 
 rarity of female beauty. 1 have been in the Boulevards, 
 and other fashionable resorts, at fashionable hours, many a 
 time and oft ; but I do not recollect having seen a single 
 French woman decidedly pretty. In some of the Galle- 
 ries, I observed occasionally a lady who might be called so, 
 but they always proved to be English. It seemed more 
 singular, as the prevalent notions of Paris with us led me 
 to expect a brilliant display 'in this line.' But if the 
 French damsels are deficient in personal attractions, they 
 certainly are not in graceful and fascinating manners ; and 
 this remark will apply almost equally to the peasant girl 
 and the queen. The style of dress of the Parisian ladies 
 seemed to me very neat, simple, and tasteful, and certainly 
 much less showy than that of the belles of Gotham, who, 
 it must he owned, are apt to be somewhat ultra in the ex- 
 tremes of foreign fashions. There is sound policy, no doubt, 
 in the practice of employing young women as clerks in 
 the shops ; they have an irresistible way of recommending 
 their wares, charming you by their ineffable sweetness and 
 apparent naivete, while they draw as liberally as possible 
 on your purse. 
 
 They have a queer way of naming, or dedicating their 
 shops ; such as ' a la belles, Anglaise,' 'a la ville de New- 
 York,' etc. In many of them there is a notification that 
 the prices are fixed and unchangeable ; but I understand 
 they generally take care that the Anglaise, (who seem to 
 be proverbial as a wealthy nation,) shall pay a suitable ad- 
 
Paris: Beauty— The Military, etc. 201 
 
 vance. ' Combien V proves to be a very useful word, and 
 answers just as well as ' Quel est le yrix ? ' The bill 
 of fare at the restaurants is quite a curiosity. You may 
 have, in the medium establishments, an excelient dinner 
 for twenty-five or thirty cents, including two or three 
 1 plates,' and a choice from nearly one hundred and fifty, 
 beside the desert and the vin ordinaire. Omnibuses origi- 
 nated in Paris ; and they are now very abundant, conve- 
 nient, and cheap. You may ride from the Gobelins to 
 Mont M&itre, about five miles, for six sous; and if you 
 wish to stop on the way, they will give you, gratis, a cor- 
 respondence-ticket to proceed. They are regulated by go- 
 vernment, and taxed and licensed for so many passengers. 
 
 While admiring the palaces and public buildings in 
 Paris, one cannot but be surprised that the meanest huts 
 should be permitted to remain in their immediate neigh- 
 borhood, as at the Louvre, Tuilleries, Luxembourg, and 
 the palace of the Institute, where bits of book-stalls and 
 shoemakers' shops are placed against the very wails of 
 those stately edifices. 
 
 An American, of course, notices as something strange, 
 the military government, which is every where so apparent. 
 Wherever you go, in public buildings, in the parks, or in 
 the streets, you are always sure to meet soldiers, police- 
 men, or ' secret service' spies. The members of the ' Na- 
 tional Guards' are, (apparently for a politic purpose,) inter- 
 spersed among the * troops of tho line,' or standing army. 
 Tho National Guards are citizen volunteers, who serve by 
 
202 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 turns a certain length of time. Their whole number is 
 about two hundred and fifty thousand, and hence their im- 
 mense importance to the government. 
 
 Paris affords an inexhaustible fund of topics for the 
 travelling letter-writer, but I must recollect that it has been 
 spoken of, occasionally, before. Let me remind you again, 
 
 my dear , that these rough memoranda are not 
 
 intended to edify any one but yourself. 
 
 XV. 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Ride from Paris to Lyons — Alternative — Contrasts — Afproach to 
 Geneva — Distinguished Genevese — Lake Leman — Lord By ion — 
 American Reputation — English Chapels. 
 
 Geneva, (Switzerland,) August 19, 1836. — Yes, it is 
 even so ! After a rather tedious journey of three days and 
 four nights from Paris, I find myself in Switzerland ; in 
 Geneva, looking out upon Lake Leman by moonlight, on 
 a lovely summer evening. 
 
 To retrace : at four P. M. on the 14th, I seated my- 
 self in the diligence for Lyons. One of my companions 
 was a very nice and pretty young lady, who proved to be 
 Paulina Celeste, a Signorina of Milan, returning with her 
 mother from an engngement at the Italian Opera, in Lon- 
 don. She was quite intelligent, but could not speak a 
 
Journey to Switzerland. 203 
 
 word of English, except ' very warm,' (and indeed it was ;) 
 but I managed to amuse myself, if not her, in some funny 
 attempts at conversation in French. 
 
 We rode out of Paris over Pont Neuf, passing Notre 
 Dame and the Jardin des Plants, and proceeded by a dull 
 level road, (leaving Fountainbleau and St. Dennis on either 
 side,) along the banks of the Yonne to Vilieneuve, Pont- 
 sur-Yonne, Sens, Joigny, etc., without any remarkable 
 incident, except that I had the pleasure of being left be. 
 hind at one of the stopping places, at eleven o'clock at 
 night. The conductcurs, when they have taken your 
 money for the whole route, care very little whether you 
 proceed or not ; and 1 was indebted to a long hill for de- 
 taining the diligence till I overtook it, after a hot chase of 
 a couple of miles. The next morning at eleven o'clock, 
 we were graciously allowed time to break our fasts of 
 twenty-seven hours ; and a very ordinary dejeuner was 
 despatched, as you may imagine, with considerable zeal. 
 
 Nearly two-thirds of the journey is through corn-fields 
 and vineyards, affording no fine scenery, but entering a 
 score of petty villages, made up of the most uncouth and 
 wretched huts imaginable. The only places worth men- 
 tioning, were Auxerre, an ancient town, fortified by the 
 Romans; Autun, which we entered under a Ron in arch 
 or barrier; Mel tin, Avallon, Ville-Franche, and Chalons- 
 sur-Soane, which latter is quite a pretty place, in a fine 
 eituation on the banks of the Soane. We dined there on 
 poulet, pigeon, potage, melon, bits of lobsters two inches 
 
204 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 long, and a variety of dishes so disguised as to be name- 
 
 less; with fresh prunes, pears, and grapes for a dessert. 
 
 Delicious fresh prunes and grapes may be had here almost 
 
 for the taking, but apples, pears, and melons, are scarce 
 
 and dear. 
 
 At eight A. M., on the 17th, we entered Lyons, the 
 
 second city in the kingdom, celebrated for its silk and 
 
 other manufactories. A great portion of all the French 
 
 finery which you wear, comes from Lyons. This city is 
 
 built between the Rhone and the Soane, which are here 
 
 about an eighth of a mile apart, and both very rapid ; so 
 
 there are abundant facilities for water-power machinery. 
 
 The bridges and quays are of stone, and very handsome. 
 
 Lofty heights, surmounted with fortifications, flank the 
 
 city on either side, and give it an air of strength and 
 
 importance. Eagerly looking forward to Italy, there was 
 
 little to detain me here. I was disappointed, however, in 
 
 not finding any conversible travellers here, on their way 
 
 to the sunny land ; and ten minutes were allowed me to 
 
 decide whether I would go alone to Marseilles, and take 
 
 the steam-boat for Genoa and Naples, in the face of the 
 
 cholera, and at the risk of horrible quarantines ; or turn 
 
 off to Geneva, with the chance of finding a companion 
 
 across the Simplon. The safer alternative was adopted ; 
 
 and taking leave of the pretty danseuse, with a promise to 
 
 call on her at Milan, I mounted the banquette, and had 
 
 another uncomfortable night ride.* 
 
 * Geneva is about one hundred and fifty miles from Lyons ; and 
 yet the fare was but ten francs. 
 
Lyons — Frontiers of France. 205 
 
 The next morning, however, was beautiful, and we 
 already began to have a taste of Swiss scenery, which 
 appears to extend forty or fifty miles into France. The 
 remainder of the journey was over long hills and dales ; 
 and we walked a considerable portion of it, enjoying occa- 
 sionally a noble view of rough mountains and green val- 
 leys. At every hamlet and village, our passports were 
 examined by epauletted officers. Near the frontiers of 
 Switzerland, the Rhone comes tumbling down between 
 two steep and lofty hills ; those referred to, probably, by 
 < Childe Harold :' 
 
 " Where the swift Rhone cleaves his way hetween 
 Heights which appear like lovers who have parted 
 In haste— whose mining depths so intervene 
 That they can meet no more, though broken-hearted." 
 
 This is the only pass to this quarter of France, and is 
 rendered impregnable by a strongly-fortified castle, lately 
 built on the side of the crag, over the road ; so that all 
 travellers must pass through the court-yard, and submit to 
 close examination. At five P. M., our passports were 
 received by an officer in more simple uniform than usual ; 
 and this was the first intimation that we had left the domin- 
 ions of Louis Philippe, and entered those of his republican 
 neighbors. We soon saw other changes. The neat and 
 comfortable cottages, and the taste and industry displayed 
 in the adjoining grounds and gardens, in approaching 
 Geneva, form a striking contrast to the miserable huts and 
 farm-houses of the peasantry of France. Verily, the low- 
 er classes of the French are a filthy people. They seem 
 
 18 
 
206 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 to have no idea of neatness, propriety, or comfort, in any- 
 thing. As farmers, and in nearly all the useful arts, they 
 are a century behind the English. Madame Trollope, 
 methinks, might here indulge her satirical pen, to her 
 heart's content. But we were entering Geneva. 
 
 It was on a ' soft and lovely eve,' at six, when this 
 pretty town and prettier lake, with the charming walks and 
 gardens of the environs, first greeted our admiring vision. 
 The frowning Jura looks down upon the lake on one side, 
 and the distant snow-capped Alps, with Mont Blanc duly 
 conspicuous, bound the horizon on the other. At the 
 gates of the town, which is strongly walled, those impor- 
 tant documents, our passports, were again given up for 
 inspection at the Bureau of the « Confederation Federate.' 
 The diligence passed round the famous great Hotel des 
 Bergues, and over the pretty bridge which you see in the 
 pictures, and set us down at the Hotel de l'Europe, where 
 I was favored with a bit of a room on the fifth floor, for 
 the hotels are all crowded. The Bergues, by the way, is 
 considered the best public house on the continent. There 
 you may mix with the lords, princes, pretty ladies, and 
 handsome equipages, from all parts of Europe. This 
 place being the head-quarters for tourists to Italy, and 
 noted for its delightful situation and pure air, is always a 
 favorite resort, especially for the fashionable and wealthy 
 English. 
 
 I was so fortunate as to find a vacant room at Mon- 
 sieur W 's beautiful place in the environs, where I 
 
 have the society of two or three English and American 
 
Geneva — Ferney. 207 
 
 families, besides the Misses W , who are intelligent 
 
 sensible girls, and speak English ' like a native.' It is 
 a most interesting family — uniting the simplicity and 
 strength of the Swiss character with the refinement and 
 grace of the French. 
 
 Geneva, you know, traces her origin far back into 
 antiquity. It is mentioned by Julius Cscsar as a place of 
 strength and importance. It now contains twenty-four 
 thousand inhabitants. The city cannot boast much of 
 architectural beauty. There are few public buildings of 
 elegance, and the houses generally are antique and gro- 
 tesque. The cathedral, (the same in which Calvin used 
 to preach,) is the most conspicuous edifice in the town ; 
 but there are some large and substantial modern buildings 
 on the banks of the lake. The Rhone, which enters the 
 lake at the other end, leaves it here, and, ' as if refreshed 
 by its expansion, again contracts itself, and rushes through 
 the city in two branches, with the impetuosity of a tor- 
 rent.' On the little artificial island adjoining the bridge, 
 is a bronze statue of one of Geneva's gifted sons, Jean 
 Jacquks Rousseau. Besides Calvin, she can also boast 
 of Bbza, Caldkuini, and Pictet, among her theologians. 
 Sismondi, the distinguished historian, now resides here. 
 The library of the college, (which has twelve professors, 
 and six hundred students,) was founded by Bonnivard, tho 
 * prisoner of Chillon.' 
 
 After rambling about to the Hotel de Ville, Botanic 
 Garden, and the beautiful ramparts, from whence there 
 are charming views, I walked along the banks of the lake 
 
208 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 toward Voltaire's Villa, at Ferney, but by mistake took 
 the road to Lausanne, equally noted as the place where 
 Gibbon wrote the * Decline and Fall.' 
 
 " Lausanne and Ferney ! Ye have been the'abodes 
 Of names which unto you bequeathed a name." 
 
 In the course of this solitary stroll;, I found a retired 
 little cove, and had the luxury of a bath in the lake, from 
 the bottom of which I obtained several rather curious peb- 
 bles. After dinner, 
 
 " Lake Leman wooed us with its crystal face, 
 The mirror where the stars and mountains view 
 The stillness of their aspect, in each trace 
 Its clear depths yield of their far height and^hue;" 
 
 and a small party of us, therefore, took a small boat, and 
 rowed a few miles over its glassy surface. The lake is 
 literally as clear as crystal ; the bottom is distinctly seen 
 in every part of it ; and you recollect Byron says in a 
 note, that he once saw the distant reflection in it of Mont 
 Blanc and Mont Argentiere, which are sixty miles distant ! 
 We pushed out into the centre of the beautiful expanse of 
 water, and ' lay on our oars' to enjoy a scene which must 
 be almost unique in its loveliness, especially at this hour, 
 when the distant, snow-white peak of the mighty Blanc is 
 tinged with the rays of the setting sun. The picturesque 
 buildings of the town rise above each other at the head of 
 the lake ; the banks on each side studded with villas, em- 
 bosomed in trees, on green and verdant lawns ; while the 
 * dark frowning Jura' forms an effective back-ground of 
 the picture. In our sail, we passed the villa at Coligny, 
 
Lake Leman — Byron. 209 
 
 where Byron lived nine months, and wrote the third can- 
 to of ' Childe Harold.' He used often to go out on the 
 lake alone, at midnight, in violent storms, which seemed 
 to delight and inspire him. The change in the elements 
 described in the third canto, might be a counterpart of the 
 author's mind : 
 
 " Clear placid Leman ! thy contrasted Jake, 
 With the wide world I dwell in, is a thing 
 Which warns me with its stillness to forsake 
 Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring; 
 This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing 
 To wait me from distraction." 
 
 Mark the contrast : 
 
 " The sky is changed ! and such a change ! Oh night, 
 And s'orm and darkness, ye are wondrous strong, 
 Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light 
 Of a dark eye in woman. Far along, 
 From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, 
 Leaps the live thunder! Not from one lone cloud, 
 But every mountain now hath found a tongue, 
 And Jura answers from her misty shroud, 
 
 Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud !" 
 
 We were threatened with 'such a change,' which are 
 said to be frequent and sudden ; but it proved a false 
 alarm. 
 
 But we must return : 
 
 "It is the hush of night, and all between 
 The margin and the mountains, dusk, yet clear, 
 Mellowed ;irui mingling, yei distinctly e i n 
 Save darkened Jura, whose cap! heights appear 
 Precipitously steep ; and drawing near, 
 Then- Iti ith( ;i living fragrance from the shore, 
 Of flowers yet fresh with childhood ; on the car 
 Drops tlic light drip of the suspended oar, 
 Or chirps the grasshopper one good night carol more." 
 18* 
 
210 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Miss B , one of the American ladies at Monsieur 
 
 W 's, has resided four years in Italy. Among other 
 
 anecdotes, of which she has an entertaining and extensive 
 fund at command, she was telling us one, illustrating the 
 reputation of our 'great republic' with the common people of 
 Europe. Near the Hotel de Secherons, on the banks of 
 the lake, one mile from Geneva, she met a small boy at 
 the gate of a cottage, and amused herself by a little talk 
 with him. He seemed much surprised on learning the 
 two facts, that she was an American lady, and that she 
 boarded at the Secherons, ' where they paid more money 
 for one dinner than he ever had in his life.' ' Did you 
 ever hear of America V ' Oh yes, father told me all about 
 it. There was a famous Frenchman, Monsieur Lafayette, 
 went there once, and conquered the country.' ' Indeed ! 
 well, what did he do then V ' Why, they wanted him to 
 become king, but he would n't.' ' Why not V ' Because,' 
 said the boy, hesitating, lest he should give offence, ' be- 
 cause the Americans are so poor /' And thus he marvelled 
 that one of them should be rich enough to patronize the 
 Hotel de Secherons. 
 
 Sunday. — Attended the English Episcopal chapel, to 
 hear the celebrated Rev. J. W. Cunningham, author of 
 the * Velvet Cushion,' etc. He enjoined upon his audience, 
 mostly English travellers or residents, to conduct them- 
 selves abroad as best became ' British Christians.' There 
 are chapels of this kind for the English, in nearly all the 
 large cities of Italy, and throughout Europe. 
 
American Fame — View of the Alps. 211 
 
 XVI. 
 
 SWITZERLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Chamouni — The Alps — Frozen Sea — Chamois — Glaciers — Cole- 
 ridge — Pass of the Tete Noire — Valley of the Rhone — Simplon 
 Road — Visions of Italy — Disappointment — Convent on the Great 
 St. Bernard. 
 
 Chamouni, (Foot of Mont Blanc,) August 23. — Those 
 who describe Swiss scenery, with a feeling sense of its 
 beauty and grandeur, are apt to incur the charge of color- 
 ing the picture under the influence of an inflated imagina- 
 tion ; but I am sure of one thing, that no mere words ever 
 did or could give me a correct and full impression of the 
 scenes I have passed to-day, or of the one now before me. 
 To say that I am in the valley of Chamouni, at the very 
 base of the stupendous Mont Blanc and his gigantic neigh- 
 bors, on a moonlight evening, is to say enough for your 
 own imagination to fill up the picture. Well does Rogers 
 remark of the distant view of the Alps from the Jura, 
 where they are scarcely distinguishable from the vapors : 
 
 " Who first beholds those everlasting clouds, 
 Seeil-time and harvest, morning noon and night, 
 Still where they were, steadfast, immovable; 
 Those niighly hills, so shadowy, so sublime, 
 As rather to belong to heaven than earth, 
 But instantly receives into his soul, 
 A sense, a feeling that he loses not, 
 A something that informs him 'tis an hour 
 Whence he may date henceforward and for ever." 
 
212 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 It certainly is a school, where the egotist may learn 
 humility. 
 
 Our party, (Mr. and Miss M , and myself.) left 
 
 Geneva in a ' carry-all' yesterday morning at five o'clock. 
 It was another clear and brilliant day, and the ride, of 
 course, was delightful. Lake, hill, mountain, valley, cas- 
 cade, river, in their happiest combination, presented a 
 splendid panorama, during the whole distance to this place, 
 fifty- four miles. By way of variety, I must tell you my 
 troubles, also. About five miles from Geneva, we were 
 made aware of having left the Swiss, and entered the Sar- 
 dinian territory, by a summons, at a little frontier bureau, 
 for our passports. When lo ! it was discovered that mine 
 was minus the signature of his Sardinian majesty's consul 
 at Geneva,* and I was politely requested to return for it ! 
 This was particularly pleasant ! For to do it would be 
 to lose the whole day, and the party beside. After some 
 useless debate, the carbinier kindly permitted me to send 
 back the document by a loafer who happened along, 
 knowing that I could not go far without it ; and the 
 next day I received it at Chamouni, and had the pleasure 
 of paying five dollars for not heeding Madame Starke's 
 directions. 
 
 We breakfasted at Bonneville, a little village on the 
 Arve, worthy of its name ; and we were soon ushered into 
 a region of sublimer scenery than we had as yet visited. 
 The craggy summits, even of the minor mountains, liter- 
 
 * This personage has the brief authority to demand four lrancs for 
 affixing his cognomen to the passports of all who leave Geneva for this 
 route. 
 
Passports — Chamouni — Frozen Sea. 213 
 
 ally touch or rise above the clouds, while their sides, up to 
 a fearful height, are covered with verdure, and studded 
 with cottages : and the valleys below are laid out in 
 squares of varied green. At St. Martin, we changed our 
 vehicle for a charbanc, better suited to the rough and nar- 
 row path, for we were now coming where, nature displays 
 some of her wildest scenes : 
 
 " Above'me are the Alps, 
 
 The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls 
 Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, 
 And throned eternity in icy halls 
 Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls 
 The avalanche, the thunder-bolt of snow ! 
 All that expands the spirit yet appals, 
 Gather around these summits, as to show 
 How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below." 
 
 The village of Chamouni is situated in the middle of 
 the valley of the same name, which is ten miles long, and 
 forms one of the most popular 'lions' in Europe, for the 
 botanist, mineralogist, and all nature's students. Our first 
 expedition was to the celebrated Mer -de- Glace. We set 
 off from our inn on mules, headed by a guide, and shortly 
 came to a steep and laborious ascent of some thousand 
 feet, on Mont Anvcrt, from which, as we looked back, the 
 objects in the valley appeared dwindled to atomies. In 
 about three hours, that wonderful phenomena, the frozen 
 sea f suddenly burst upon our view : 
 
 " Wave upon wave ! as if a foaming ocean, 
 
 By boisterous winds to fierce rebellion driven, 
 Heard, in its wildest moment of commotion, 
 
 And stood congealed at the command of heaven J 
 
214 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Its frantic billows chained at their explo-ion, 
 
 And fixed in sculpture ! here to caverns riven — 
 There, petrified to crystal— at His nod 
 Who raised the Alps an altar to their God." 
 
 When you reflect that this sea is eighteen miles long, 
 and that the waves rise in abrupt ridges ten, twenty, and 
 even forty feet, frozen to extreme solidity, with chasms 
 between, some of which have been found to be three hun- 
 dred and fifty feet deep, you will believe the poet has not 
 exaggerated its appearance. It is surrounded by high 
 mountains of dark-colored rock, which taper off in fantas- 
 tic and beautiful cones ; and, altogether, it is a scene of 
 striking and awful magnificence, which must leave an abi- 
 ding impression on every visiter. The ice in the chasms 
 is very clear, and of a beautiful vitriol tint. It is remark- 
 able that this great natural curiosity was first made known 
 to the world in 1741, by two adventurous English travel- 
 lers, Windham and Pocoke. Its origin, of course, remains 
 a fearful mystery. 
 
 At the little hut on Mont Anvert, I obtained of the 
 guides some specimens of minerals, fine stones, and a cha- 
 mois cane. By the way, you will excuse me, perhaps, for 
 copying these ' Lines on liberating a Chamois :'* 
 
 "Free-born and beautiful ! The mountain 
 
 Has nought like thee! 
 Fleet as the rush of Alpine fountain — 
 
 Fearless and free ! 
 Thy dazzling eye outshines in brightness 
 
 The beam ol Hope ; 
 Thjne airy bound outstrips the lightness 
 
 Of antelope. 
 
 * Quoted in Dr. Beattie's beautiful work on Switzerland. 
 
Chamois — Glaciers — Mt. Blanc. 215 
 
 "On cliffs, where scarce the eagle's pinion 
 Can find repose, 
 Thou ketp'si ihy desolate dominion 
 
 Of trackless snows ! 
 Thy pride to roam where man's ambition 
 
 Could never climb, 
 And make thy world a dazzling vision 
 Of Alps sublime ! 
 
 "How glorious are the dawns that wake thee 
 
 To thy repa6t I 
 And where their fading lights forsake thee, 
 
 They shine the last. 
 Thy clime is pure— thy heaven clearer, 
 
 Brighter than ours ; 
 To thee, the deseit snows are dearer 
 
 Than summer flowers." 
 
 Our excursion had given us a capital relish for dinner, 
 and that despatched, and ' our mules refreshed,' we set off 
 again and climbed to the Glacier de Bossons, an immense 
 mass of ice, congealed in beautiful pyramids, on the side 
 of Mont Blanc : 
 
 11 Mount Blanc is the monarch of mountains! 
 They crown'd him long ago, 
 On a throne of rocks in a robe of clouds, 
 
 With a diadem of snow." 
 Around his waist are forests braced. 
 The avalanche in his hand." 
 
 That ' mighty Alp' itself, we did not care to ascend ; it is 
 an achievement which has never been accomplished but 
 thirteen times, as we were told by our guide, who was one 
 of the six that escorted an Englishman to the summit this 
 summer. The ascent is of course one of great fatigue and 
 danger. It takes from two to three days, and costs nine 
 
216 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 hundred francs. It is impossible to remain on the top 
 more than thirty minutes. The last adventurer was sick 
 several weeks at the inn, after his return. 
 
 You may imagine something of the situation of this 
 valley among the mountains, from the fact that, although 
 it is two thousand feet above the Mediterranean, it receives 
 the rays of the sun direct, only about four hours in the 
 longest days of the year ; and the moon, to-night, was not 
 to be seen in her whole course, though the opposite moun- 
 tains were bright with her ' mellow light.' 
 
 The people of these valleys seem to be honest and 
 industrious, as well as a little superstitious, if one may 
 judge from the number of crosses, and little chapels, with 
 images of the virgin, etc., which are placed by the way- 
 side. On one of them, near Chamouni, is a proclamation 
 in French, to this effect : 
 
 ' Monseigneur Rey grants an indulgence of forty days 
 to all the faithful who humbly and devoutly strike this cross 
 three times, saying, * God have mercy upon me V 
 
 August 24. — At six A. M., we mounted our mules for 
 Martigny, by the pass of the Tete Noir. Like Dr. Beat- 
 tie, on leaving Chamouni, I beg to refer you to the beautiful 
 hymn which Coleridge wrote here before sunrise, painting 
 its features a little more vividly than I can do it : 
 
 " Ye ice-falls ! Ye that from the mountain's brow 
 Adown ravines enormous slope amain ; 
 Torrents, methirtks, that heard a mighty voice, 
 And stopped at once amidst their maddest plunge ! 
 Motionless torrents, silent cataracts! 
 Who made you glorious as the gates of heaven, 
 Beneath the keen full moon 1 Who bade the sun 
 
Coleridge 's Hymn at Chamouni-^TUe Noire, 217 
 
 Clothe you with rainbows? Who, with living flowers 
 
 Of loveliest blue, spread garlands at your feet 1 
 
 God ! Let the torrents like a shout of nations, 
 
 Answer, and let the ice-plains echo, God ! 
 
 God ! Sing, ye meadow streams with gladsome voice 1 
 
 Ye pine-groves, with your soft and soul-like sounds ! 
 
 And they too have a voice, yon piles of snow, 
 
 And in the perilous fall shall thunder, God! 
 
 Ye living flowers that skirt the eternal frost ! 
 
 Ye wild goats, sporting round the eagle's nest 1 
 
 Ye eagles, playmates of the mountain storm ! 
 
 Ye lightnings, the dread arrows of the clouds! 
 
 Ye signs and wonders of the elements ! 
 
 Utter forth God ! and fill the hills with praise !" 
 
 There are two passes from Chamouni to the Valley of 
 the Rhone, viz : the Col de Balme, and the Tele Noire. 
 The latter is distinguished for its awful wildness and gran- 
 deur. The narrow path barely affords room for mules, 
 between steep rocky heights and frightful precipices, each 
 of some thousand feet. Rushing streams of snow-water 
 from the glaciers, cascades from the rocks, remains of ava- 
 lanches, and overhanging cliffs abound on every side. Our 
 cavalcade consisted of twenty-one mules, and six guides 
 on foot. A great many travel here entirely on foot, equip- 
 ped in a fro^ 1 - of brown linen, with belt, knapsack, a flask 
 of kirschwasser, and a six-foot pike-staff; and this is much 
 the best way to explore the country leisurely. 
 
 Our speed on mules was not great ; for we were all 
 this day going twenty miles. At six p. if., we came to 
 the last descent, from whence was spread out before us the 
 large and magnificent valley of the Rhone, dotted with 
 villages, of which Martigny and Sion are the principal; 
 and traversed by the river Rhone, and by Napoleon's great 
 
 19 
 
21S Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Simplon road, which may be seen for twelve miles, its 
 course being as straight as an arrow, through highly #ul- 
 tivated fields and vineyards. 
 
 Martigny is the stopping place for tourists to Italy by 
 the Simplon ; and here I was to decide whether I would 
 venture. There was the brilliant vision of Italy ! — a name 
 which called up my most ambitious, youthful dreams ; and 
 I was now separated from it but by a day's journey. But 
 alas ! there were the cholera, and the fifteen days quaran- 
 tine at almost every town ; and I was alone, unknown to 
 any mortal there, and to the language itself. Then a 
 thousand dangers and vexations rose up before me ; and 
 yet, when the last ten minutes for decision came, ' I screw- 
 ed my courage to the sticking place,' and resolved — to go. 
 My luggage was sent over, my seat taken in the diligence 
 for Milan; but my cane, which I had left at the inn, pre- 
 vented my seeing Italy ! In returning for it, I met a per- 
 son who had come here for the same object, learned that it 
 was impracticable, and soon persuaded me to give it up; 
 so, with the consoling reflection that 1 might still go to Na- 
 ples in November, I changed my course, hired a mule, and 
 soon overtook the party who had set off for the convent on 
 the Great St. Bernard. 
 
 Hospice de Saint Bernard, August 25, 1836. — I am 
 now writing before a blazing five, in the dining-room of the 
 convent, eleven thousand feet above the Mediterranean ,* 
 and a company of about thirty fellow. pilgrims, English, 
 Scotch, French, German, Austrian, Russian, and American, 
 are exercising their native tongues around me. 
 
Italy in Prospective — Convent of St. Bernard. xiy 
 
 The distance to the Convent from Martigny, the nearest 
 renting village, is twenty. seven miles, nine miles of it being 
 the steep ascent of the mountain ; of course it takes a long 
 day to achieve it. When Napoleon made the celebrated 
 passage of the St. Bernard, with the army of reserve in 
 1804, just before the battle of Marengo, the path was much 
 worse than it is now, and the idea of transporting heavy 
 ordnanc;, etc., for an army of sixty thousand, over a moun- 
 tain, which even now the sure-footed mules must tread with 
 great caution, was considered madness. But Napoleon 
 and Hannibal were not easily discouraged, neither were the 
 heroic ladies of our little caravan, who were content to 
 earn their supper and lodging in these upper regions, by 
 two days' hard work of climbing and descending. 
 
 We did not achieve the victory without bloodshed. Two 
 of the ladies were thrown violently from their mules, and 
 one of the animals took it into his head to stop short in the 
 midst of a pretty strong thunder-shower ; and I had a nice 
 chance of earning a reputation for gallantry, by pushing 
 boldly forward, and returning with another mule for the 
 hapless dame. 
 
 We all at last arrived, however, without broken limbs, 
 plentifully drenched by the shower, and well able t<> appre- 
 ciate the hospitality of the monks. They provided changes 
 of raiment for those who brought none, piled the wood 
 liberally on the fire, and soon spread the table as liberally 
 with an excellent supper. The ladies and their attending 
 squires supped by themselves, two of the most intelligent 
 of the brothers officiating, and dispensing bon caf/ and 
 
220 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 bon mots, while the supernumerary men-kind were enter- 
 tained in another room by the other monks, headed by the 
 Superior. 
 
 This famous convent is a very plain, large wooden 
 building, which at a distance you would take for a barn, 
 situated far above the regions of vegetation, and several miles 
 from the nearest habitation. It is supported partly by the 
 governments of Sardinia and Switzerland, for the purpose 
 of relieving travellers over the mountain ; for without it, 
 the pass would scarcely be passed at all. The monks ap- 
 pear to be plain, sensible and intelligent men, without that 
 austerity usually associated with that order. They freely 
 receive all who come here, either for curiosity or necessity, 
 without charge ; but visiters contribute whatever they 
 please to the box in the chapel. They turned out their 
 famous dogs for our amusement ; in the winter, they are 
 used for more important purposes. They are not so large 
 as I expected, but they are really noble animals. Many a 
 weary traveller have they rescued from death in the snow. 
 
 Some of the monks are the same who were here when 
 Napoleon's army came over, and they have a picture of 
 his arrival at the convent, in the little museum of antiqui- 
 ties. In the hall, is a tablet with this inscription : 
 
 ' Napoleoni primo Francorum Imperatori 
 Semper Augusti Republica Valesianae 
 Restaurotori Sempei^Optimo ^Egyptiano 
 Bis Italico, Semper Invicto in Monte 
 Iovis et Sempronii Semper Memorando 
 Republica Valesia Grata n. Dec. Anni mdccciv.' 
 
 We were nearly all early to bed, and those who linger- 
 
Ride and Sail to Lausanne. 221 
 
 ed, were packed off by the monks at ten, according to 
 rule. We were roused before sunrise by the lusty ring- 
 ing of the chapel bell for matins, which were zealously 
 kept up for two or three hours ; but I was heretic enough 
 to abscond, for the purpose of climbing the peak behind 
 the convent, from which I could look down on the side of 
 the mountain toward Italy ; 
 
 'Italia! too, Italia! looking on thee, 
 Full flashes on the soul the light of ages, 
 Since the fierce Carihayian almost won thee, 
 To the last halo of the chiefs and sages 
 Who glorify thy consecrated pages : 
 Thou wert the throne and grave of empires.' 
 
 XVII. 
 
 SWITZERLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 From the Convent to the Lake of Geneva — Castle of Chilian — 
 Clare a s — La usa nn e— Dili m ma — Morat — 7 'ra i ts cf To m ists — 
 Berne — Oberlands — Tim n — Interlacken — Swiss Lakes — Inns. 
 
 Lausanne, August 26. — We left St. Bernard, well 
 pleased with our hosts, and hastened back to Martigny, 
 where we procured an open carriage, and proceeded di- 
 rectly to St. Maurice, there to lodge. The ride along the 
 banks of the Rhone, in the cool of the evening, was deli- 
 cious. As it grew dark, the bonfires of the chamois- 
 hunters were lit up here and there on the distant moun- 
 19* 
 
222 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 tains; and among other things, we passed a beautiful cas- 
 cade, seven hundred feet high, flowing out of a solid rock. 
 At half past three this morning, we were aroused from our 
 slumbers at St. Maurice, to take the omnibus for Ville- 
 neuve, at the head of the Lake of Geneva. It was just 
 after sunrise, on another soft and lovely morning, when we 
 stepped on board the steamer ' Le Leman ' to sail down 
 this glorious lake, now placid and smooth as a mirror. 
 The boat was well filled, principally with English tourists. 
 We passed near the walls of the famous Castle of Chillon, 
 where Bonnivard, Byron's ' Prisoner,' lingered in chains : 
 
 'Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 
 
 And thy sad floor an altar— ior 'twas trod, 
 
 Until his very steps have left a trace, 
 
 Worn as if thy cold pavement were a sod, 
 
 By Bonnivard ! — May none those marks efface, 
 For they appeal from tyranny to God !' 
 
 The castle is at the foot of the hill, on the very mar- 
 gin of the Lake, and seems almost to rise out of the water. 
 The poet has finely pictured in his 'Prisoner' a striking 
 scene of loneliness, amidst nature's fairest works. We pass- 
 ed Clarens, too, the 'sweet Clarens' of the author of 
 'Heloise:' 
 
 ' 'Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot, 
 Peopling it with affections. 'Tis lone, 
 And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound, 
 And sense, and sight of sweetness : here the Rhone 
 Hath spread himself a couch,* the Alps have reared a throne.' 
 
 At eleven o'clock we arrived at Lausanne, via its 
 port, Ouchi, for the town is a fourth of a mile up the hill. 
 
 * Flowing in and from the lake. 
 
Castle of Chillon — Language, etc. 223 
 
 This is a largo but irregularly-built town, and is much fre- 
 quented by the English. The house where Gibbon lived 
 yet remains, and is now occupied by an English family. 
 Here I took leave of the friendly party, and am to proceed 
 alone to regions as yet to me unknown. 
 
 Berne, Aug. 28. — Had a moonlight night-ride from 
 Lausanne, whence we departed at seven, p. m. I am now 
 coming to the Cantons where German is usually spoken, 
 so I suppose I must play deaf and dumb, and talk by signs, 
 guessing the import of what they say tome, as I did, for 
 example, at the diligence office, when 1 paid my fare ; but 
 in this case I was left in a nonplus. When I took my 
 seat, they motioned me out; and 1 stood patiently waiting 
 to be disposed of. My luggage was put on, the diligence 
 was filled and started off, leaving me there, solus, in deep 
 cogitation. Well, 'thinks I to myself,' they are very po- 
 lite ! Presently, however, a smart buggy came along, and 
 the driver civilly beckoned me to take a scat. Feeling 
 very cool and good-natured, in I jumped, at the risk of go- 
 ing where 'the d — 1 drives;' for I really was somewhat 
 in the dark, and I could n't be positive whether it was not 
 the 'old gentleman' himself. Soon, however, these dis- 
 mal doubts were dispelled by our overtaking the diligence, 
 and receiving an English gentleman into the buggy ; and 
 then the simple truth flashed upon me, that the diligence 
 was full, and they were ' forwarding' me in an extra, as 
 they are obliged to do, by law of the land, all who apply 
 before the time. 
 
 In some learned discussions about England, I happened 
 
224 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 to say that the law securing the descent of property of the 
 
 nobility, there, exclusively to the oldest son, seemed to me 
 
 very unjust. My companion said he 'gloried in it ;' though 
 
 he himself was a ' younger son,' he abhorred democracy 
 
 and equality. And with some more talk I fell asleep, and 
 
 left him to his cigar. 
 
 At two, a. m., we stopped at a place called Peterlinden, 
 
 and got some coffee in a 'loft.' About daylight, we were 
 
 riding in sight of Lake Neufchatel, and passed the little 
 
 village of Morat, where the Swiss heroically defeated an 
 
 invasion of the Burgundians, in 1440 ; of which Byron 
 
 says :* 
 
 ' There is a spot should not be passed in vain, 
 Morat ! the proud, the patriot field ! where man 
 May gaze on ghastly trophies of the slain,t 
 Nor blush for those who conquered on that plain. 
 
 * * * 
 
 While Waterloo with Cannae's carnage vies, 
 Morat and Marathon, twin names shall stand.' 
 
 It is vastly amusing and edifying to observe the ' whims 
 and oddities ' of the various people one meets with on these 
 routes, or indeed any where. The English and Germans 
 generally like each other, while both dislike the French ; 
 and all are equally prejudiced against us poor Americans — 
 perhaps not without reason. There are too many young 
 Americans, who ape the worst traits of the English charac- 
 ter abroad, and ' ridicuHze ' themselves by sundry foolish 
 affectations, and a sort of haughty reserve. A couple of 
 
 * See also 'Anne of Gierstein.' 
 
 t A heap of bones of the vanquished remain to this day on the field. 
 
Morat — American Deportment — Berne. 225 
 
 these lofty youths at our Scotchman pronounced ' con- 
 temptible puppies, for they considered themselves too good 
 
 to speak to the Misses , because they kept a pension ; y 
 
 and he added, rather rudely and illiberally, that ' all Ameri- 
 cans are alike, when they think they have got money 
 enough to act the aristocrat.' This sweeping charge was 
 not worth notice, and would never be made by the better 
 class of English or Scotch ; but it must be owned, there is 
 some ground for it ; and it is too bad, that a few dandy 
 upstarts abroad should excite prejudice against the whole 
 of us. 
 
 At nine this morning, we rode through a long shady 
 avenue, lined with elms, into the handsome town of Berne, 
 the capital of Switzerland. It is built on a peninsula, form- 
 ed by the windings of a little stream called the Aar, in the 
 midst of an extensive and fertile plain. The two princi- 
 pal streets are long and uniform, the buildings being all of 
 gray stone, projecting on heavy arches over the side-walks. 
 In the Rue Grand are several public fountains, adorned 
 with grotesque figures. At the city-gate, a couple of wood- 
 en ' grisly bears,' (the arms of Canton,) look down upon 
 all visiters, with a scrutinizing but rather inviting glance. 
 The cathedral is a very curious piece of antique architec- 
 ture, especially the great door, which is elaborately orna- 
 mented with emblematical sculpture. But the most attrac- 
 tive spot in Berne is the public promenade, by the side of 
 the river, from whence you Have a magnificent prospect of 
 the whole range of the Oberland Alps, covered with per- 
 petual snows, probably the most imposing array of moun- 
 
226 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 tains in the world, at least the finest to be seen atone view. 
 A visit to some of this range, through the valleys of Grin- 
 dewald and Lauterbrun, is usually a prominent object to 
 the Swis? tourist. Near the summit of one of these peaks, 
 where ' winter reigns supreme,' the Jung Frau, is the 
 awful precipice where Byron's ' Manfred ' was stopped by 
 the chamois hunter from taking a final leap. 
 
 The city and canton of Berne have always been noted 
 as the most aristocratic of the confederacy, both in laws 
 and in the spirit of the people. Each canton, it seems, has 
 a different costume :* that of the Berne damsels is marked 
 by white starched over-sleeves, extending to the elbows, 
 and a broad black lace ruffle stuck up over the head, which 
 makes them look like Peter Wilkins' flying islanders. 
 
 29th. — Like Mr. Cooper, we patronize 'Le Faucon ;' 
 and the Rev. Mr. Cunningham has invited me among the 
 Anglaise to hear the church service read in his room. The 
 principal topic of the day in Berne is the dispute with Louis 
 Philippe, which at present looks rather squally. 
 
 Alpnach, Lake of Luzerne , 30th. — The ride from Berne 
 to Thun was very agreeable, notwithstanding I was obliged 
 to take the interieur, among some inveterate smokers. 
 The scenery continued to be beautiful, but very different 
 from that we had passed a i^ew days since — the ' lofty 
 heights' being in full view, but far distant. 
 
 Thun is a picturesque little village situated in an en- 
 chanting place on the .Aar, near the head of the lake of 
 the same name, which forms one of a series of the most 
 
 * The costume is worn only by the peasantry. 
 
The ' Oberlands '—Swiss Lakes, etc. 227 
 
 charming sheets of water in Europe. Instead of the dili- 
 gence route to Luzerne, I was tempted to enjoy the luxury 
 of a sail over these lakes ; and accordingly left Thun 
 yesterday morning in a little steamer, which plies on the 
 ' Thuner See' to Interlachen, ancther pretty village, situa- 
 ted, as its name implies, between two lakes, Thun and 
 Brientz. It contains several good pensions, and is much 
 frequented by tourists in search of health; and well it may 
 be ; for the region round about is a paradise. ' The air 
 itself is a nosegay, the coarse bread a banquet, and the 
 simple whey of the Alps is worth all the elixirs of the 
 apothecary.' You may not sympathize, perhaps, in my 
 enjoyment of this Swiss tour — would you were here to en- 
 joy it with me ! — for I know it is tantalizing to read of the 
 1 fairest places of the earth,' when one must long in vain 
 to be in them ; and yet it is pleasant to tell those we love 
 of the pleasant things we have had the good fortune to fall 
 in with. 
 
 On our way to Interlachen, from the boat, we passed 
 through the queer and romantic old town of Unterseen. 
 Interlachen is near the Lake of Brientz ; and there, with 
 the assistance of an obliging French gentleman, who volun- 
 teered as my interpreter, I hired a small boat with four 
 rowers, to take me over the lake to the town of Brientz, 
 a distance often miles, where I procured a horse and guide 
 for my In L 1113 \ by way of va- 
 
 . on foot, over the B run ig Alp. A violent thunder- 
 storm, which had closely pursued us mi the lake, overtook 
 me on the summit of the rugged Brunig, and, at the ex- 
 
228 Memoranda in Europe in 1836* 
 
 pense of a thorough drenching, 1 had a fine chance to ob- 
 serve the sublime commotion of the elements ; and sure 
 enough, 
 
 ' Far along 
 
 From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, 
 Leaped the live thunder ! ' 
 
 The movements of the clouds beneath me, after the shower, 
 were extremely beautiful and grand ; rising in detached 
 masses, gracefully and majestically up the sides of the 
 mountains, and parting slowly from their summits, or from 
 the green vales below, like a veil which had covered a 
 mystery. Huge masses of rock overhang the path in sev- 
 eral places, threatening to tumble suddenly upon the un- 
 wary traveller, or the cottages below ; and abundant are 
 the proofs that ' such things have been.' 
 
 I have said so much about fine prospects, that the one 
 from the Brunig shall only be referred to, and you may 
 read of it elsewhere. At Lungern, I dined, and hired a 
 chaise to take me, solus, to the Lake of the Four Cantons. 
 The ride was along the banks of two more lakes, Lungern 
 and Sarr.en, both of which are of a sea-green color, deep 
 as the blue of the * Leman.' There was little to remark, 
 except an occasional water-fail, or the ruddy peasant girls 
 on the banks, spinning flax. 
 
 At sunset, after traversing four lakes, and a mountain 
 of no mean dimensions, since breakfast, I was received by 
 mine host at the ' Cheval Blanc,' at Alpnach, who is much 
 noted, it seems, as an honest, attentive, and eccentric Swiss 
 publican ' of the old school.' The hotels, be it observed, 
 
Swiss Inns. 229 
 
 throughout Switzerland, are generally excellent. The 
 plain but substantial fare which they give you, among the 
 mountains, may be partaken of, after a ramble in those 
 regions of pure and bracing air, with a better relish than a 
 princely feast in courtly halls ; and in the larger towns 
 they will spread a table d'hote which would do credit to 
 Meurice, of the Rue Rivoli, or Boyden, of the Astor 
 House. At all the inns, visiters are expected, and even 
 required, to write in the ' Book of Chronicles' not only their 
 name and residence, but occupation, destination, and 
 
 * where from :' and in the ' Highland tour' they usually add 
 
 * remarks,' scraps of doggerel, and praise or abuse of the 
 last visited inn; such as ' Avoid the ' Epee' at Zurich.; 1 
 ' Go by all means to the ' Cygne' at Luzerne.' Italy being 
 blockaded by cholera and quarantines, this season, its 
 
 neighbor Switzerland is more than usually swarmed with 
 tourists ; and a good many American names may be 
 found recorded in the medley albums. 
 
 20 
 
230 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 SWITZERLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Luzerne — Thorwaldsen — Swiss Mercenaries— Anne of Gierstein — 
 Pilatus — Wm. Tell — View from Ike Rhigi— Sublime Spectacle 
 — The Rossburg — Zug — ' Fair Zurich's Waters' — Falls of the 
 Rhine — Swiss vs. American Scenery. 
 
 Luzerne, August 30. — In company with a couple of 
 very agreeable English gentlemen, who had just returned 
 from Italy, we took a boat at Alpnach, and were rowed 
 down the Lake of the Four Cantons to this beautiful place. 
 This lake is one of the largest, and certainly the most pic- 
 turesque, in Switzerland, being irregular in its shape, and 
 indented with little bays, and affording, in its whole 
 extent, every variety of scenery. After doubling several 
 of its promontories, in a sail of two hours, we landed 
 almost on the very steps of die favorite ' Hotel de Cygne' 
 at Luzerne. It is a capital house, close to the water, and 
 as we sit at dinner, we have on one side a fine panoramic 
 view of the Bay of Naples, and, on the other, the real 
 panorama of this beautiful lake and surrounding moun- 
 tains. 
 
 We dined sumptuously at the table d'hote, and then 
 walked out to a garden in the suburbs to see a famous 
 piece of sculpture from a model by Thorwalsden, the Swe- 
 dish artist. It is a colossal lion, pierced with a barb, cut 
 
Lake of Luzerne — Anne of Gierstein — Te 11. 231 
 
 out on the side of a hill of rock, and under it are inscribed 
 the names of the Swiss guards who fell in the French rev- 
 olutions of '89 and '33. It is remarkable that Swiss sol- 
 diers ;ire yet employed as the body-guards of the kings of 
 France, Naples, etc., as more trustworthy than their own 
 people. These guards are formally ' let out' by the Swiss 
 government ; but how such a proceeding js compatible 
 with national honor, I am at a loss to conceive. There 
 are two covered wooden bridges at Luzerne, each fourteen 
 hundred feet long : the interiors are adorned with curious 
 old paintings of the Dutch school, comprising a regular 
 series of Scripture subjects. 
 
 You will recollect that this is ihe place from whence 
 the travellers set out in the graphic scene of 'Anne of 
 Gierstein.' It is in the vicinity of the scenes of Tell's 
 exploits, of the battle-field of Sempach, and many other 
 interesting spots. The gloomy and ' cloud-capt' brow of 
 Mount Pilatus, where tra lition says Pontius Pilate threw 
 himself into the lake ! is a conspicuous object on one side ; 
 and opposite, is the isolated Mount Rhigi, on the top of 
 which we propose to lodge to-night, as all faithful travel- 
 lers here do, for the sake of 'the most magnificent sunset 
 and sunrise prospect which the world affords.' 
 
 Summit of the Rhigi, Sept. 1. — Yesterday, at eleven 
 A. M., I took boat with my companion, (an intelligent 
 young student from Cambridge, Eng.,) and we pushed 
 across the lake to Kusnacht, near William Tell's chapel, 
 and the place where he escaped from Gesler. Thence wo 
 proceeded without a guide, the ascent appearing to be 
 
232 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 quite easy ; but we had the luck to lose our way and lose 
 each other : nevertheless, we pressed forward to the goal, 
 like Bunyan's ' Pilgrim,' tugging and climbing under an 
 intensely hot sun. up, up, up, every step seeming to be the 
 last, until I for one almost gave up in despair, when the 
 friendly halloo ! of some peasants pointed me to the path. 
 At length we met each other near the top, on the side 
 toward Altorf ; and at six P. M. arrived at the inn, almost 
 fainting with hunger and fatigue, and well able to do jus- 
 tice to a good supper. 
 
 Much as report had raised my anticipations, the view 
 from the Rhigi Kulm far exceeded them : yet perhaps that 
 from some points half-way to the summit, if not so exten- 
 sive, is more pleasing and beautiful.* From the top, the 
 eye takes in too much ; and large towns and lakes appear 
 like baby's play-houses and frog-ponds, much as they 
 would from a balloon. But the grand whole is certainly 
 magnificent ; a view of the whole of Switzerland could not 
 be otherwise : 
 
 11 Lakes, rivers, long drawn vales, towns, hamlets, towers, 
 From Gothards glacier snows to Swabia's bowers." 
 
 Thirteen lovely lakes, of which those of Luzerne, Zug, 
 and Zurich are the nearest and most conspicuous ; with a 
 hundred villages scattered along their banks. On the 
 south, the sublime and gigantic array of the snowy Alps 
 of Unterwald and the Grisons, even to the borders of Italy ; 
 
 * The Rhigi is not remarkable for its height, being but five thou- 
 sand seven hundred feet above the plain ; but being isolated from the 
 great range, it affords much the widest view. 
 
Magnificent view from the Bhigi. 233 
 
 while on the other hand, « the view extends into the very 
 centre of Swabia, presenting a richly-colored relief, over 
 which the eye of the spectator roves in silent rapture, as 
 the eagle, hovering in mid air or from his eyrie, in some 
 isolated pinnacle of the Alps, looks down upon the states 
 and kingdoms scattered at his feet. The sound of sheep- 
 bells from the pastures, mingling with others that, with a 
 deeper and more distant chime, call the villagers to mat- 
 ins ; the smoke of the first fires, curling in light blue 
 wreaths above their sheltering woods ; the lowing of 
 herds rushing to their morning pasture; the mountain 
 peaks, varying in tint and distinctness as the light over- 
 steps their summits ; the glaciers, gradually changing their 
 snowy glare into a purple, and then a rosy glow ; spires 
 and pinnacles catching the first ray of light, and assuming 
 their wonted station as land-marks in the scene ; sails, half 
 in shade and half in sunshine;, skimming the lakes with their 
 rural produce and population ; the Alpine horn, pealing its 
 signals from the pastoral bergs around ; the pilgrim-troop, 
 with solemn chant and motley costume, bringing their 
 donations to the confessional of ' Our Lady ;' the scream 
 of the vulture in pursuit of his prey, and many other sights 
 and sounds which it would be tedious to enumerate, strike 
 the eye and imagination of the stranger so forcibly, that 
 he feels for a time as if transported into the mysteries of a 
 new world.' 
 
 This is in the early morning ; but the most beautiful 
 sight this evening was a sea of clouds resting on the minor 
 hills, far beneath us, the peaks just peeping above, like so 
 20* 
 
234 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 many little islands in the ocean. Bodies of vapor also 
 hung, like a canopy, over a part of the lakes ; but with us 
 the sky was perfectly clear, and the sun went down in 
 cloudless glory ; and when the last morsel disappeared, 
 the Germans of the party doffed their beavers, and made 
 him a low parting bow. 
 
 Zurich, Sept. 1. — Cooling as was the change of air on 
 the Rhigi, after such a warm ascent, T never felt brighter 
 than after my nap in that high position, five thousand seven 
 hundred feet above the tide. By-the-by, the announce- 
 ment at nine, of ' La June ! la lune /' produced a rush from 
 the supper table, but the keen, bracing atmosphere soon 
 compelled the ladies to retreat to their rooms. At 4 four- 
 and-a-half,' we were roused from our slumbers by a ' trum- 
 pet's martial sound,' announcing the approach of the ' king 
 of day.' It was beautiful to watch the changing tints of 
 the sky, for an hour before the sun appeared. Not a 
 cloud was to be seen in the horizon, for we were far above 
 them ; but when the sun's dazzling rays began to be 
 reflected on the hill-tops, and on the sea of vapor beneath 
 us, and the mists began to roll away from over the lakes, 
 gradually disclosing their varied outline, or lifting the can- 
 opy from the quiet towns, the scene was truly exquisite to 
 look upon. 
 
 I left the ' Kulm' alone, at six, and came down in an 
 hour and a half, on the side toward Goldau. This is the 
 village that was destroyed in 1806, by the fall of a part of 
 Mount Rossberg, when nearly five hundred persons, and 
 property to the amount of half a million, were suddenly 
 
Walk to « Fair Zurich's Waters. ' 235 
 
 buried under a mass of earth, which our Mr. Cooper as- 
 certained to be equal in bulk to all the buildings in New- 
 York put together!* From thence I walked along the 
 banks of the Zuger See, to the curious old town of Zug. 
 This lake is nine miles long. The road on its banks is 
 lined with fruit trees, and 1 filled my pockets with nice 
 fresh prunes for the gathering. Blackberries in profusion 
 are there also. It was another delicious day, and I experi- 
 enced none of the miseries so elegantly described by a 
 scribbler at Alpnnch : 
 
 "1 wandered 'midst the untrodden ways 
 
 Beside the banks of Zug ; 
 And there 1 met with scores of fleas, 
 And there with many a bug."t 
 
 There was ringing of bells, and firing of cannon, which 
 made a tremendous echo across the lake, but for what 
 cause I did not learn. At Zug I got dinner, and a direc- 
 tion to a by-path ' across lots' of potato-fields to Horgern, 
 on the Zurich See, where I was to take the steam-boat to 
 this place. I was alone, and not a soul on the way could 
 speak any thing but vulgar German. I was stared at as 
 if from the clouds ; and albeit not conscious, like the third 
 Richard, of any special deformity, yet, 
 
 "As I passed, the dogs did bark at me." 
 
 At one village, a cur at the first house commenced the 
 
 salute, which was continued to the last, by every 
 
 " Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound, 
 And cur of low decree." 
 
 • See his calculation in figures, in ' Sketches of Switzerland. ' 
 T " She dwelt amid the untrodden ways 
 
 Beside the springs of Dove." — Wordsworth. 
 
236 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 The folks did not know what I meant by Horgern, be- 
 cause 1 did not roll it out with their horrid nasal pronun- 
 ciation. I stopped to fill my flask at a spring, and had the 
 luck to learn of a farmer that I was going just the wrong 
 way. At length, after achieving another mountain, a 
 splendid landscape was spread out before me ; the Leauti- 
 ful Lake of Zurich, bordered with vineyards, and neat vil- 
 lages, flanked by another range of snow-capped Alps. 
 With staff in hand, and knapsack on back, as I ap- 
 proached 
 
 "The margin of fair Zurich's waters," 
 I met a posse of 'fair Zurich's daughters,' and of course 
 doffed my beaver to the fairest, whereat they were all vast- 
 ly amused, and perhaps a little jealous of the favored one 
 (a-hem !) but bon jour, or ? alack- well-a-day,' was all I 
 could say, so I proceeded to the ' margin,' found there 
 was no steam-boat, hired a boat, took in a lady, who applied 
 for passage, and pushed off for Zurich. It was a lovely 
 afternoon, and as pretty a sail as I have yet had. I had 
 this morning seen the sun rise from the summit of the Rhi- 
 gi ; and now, after walking thirty-five miles in nine hours, 
 under his hottest beams, I saw him set on the Lake of Zu- 
 rich. This lake is nearly twenty miles long. As we 
 came near the town, we passed several charming pleasure- 
 gardens, on the very margin of the water. Zurich is sit- 
 uated much like Geneva, being built on both sides of 
 the rapid stream which flows out at the head of the lake. 
 It is quite a large and city-like place, and evidently a flour- 
 ishing one. I saw several large buildings in the course of 
 
Zurich — Falls of the Rhine. 237 
 
 erection. The walks and rides in its environs, and the 
 sail on its waters, are delightful in the extreme. 
 
 It was eight o'clock, P. M., when my boatman landed 
 me on the dock, and it was with no little trouble that I 
 found the Gastqff Zum Schwardt, or Hotel de L'Epee, for 
 my pronunciation of the name would not pass. It is 
 a good inn, near the lake, but always full, and very dear. 
 Mine host politely gave me a ticket for the town museum 
 and reading-room. I had sent my luggage here by dili- 
 gence from Luzerne, and expected to meet my Rhigi com. 
 panion ; but he does not appear, and 1 must proceed in 
 single blessedness to the Rhine and Germany, unknowing 
 and unknown. 
 
 Schajfhausen, Sept. "2. — In the ride to this plnce, I had 
 my first glimpse of the Rhine, at the village of Eglisan : 
 and now I have been out to see the celebrated Falls of 
 the Rhine, near Schaffhausen. I came to them from 
 above, and was disappointed ; but I found the right view is 
 from the bend, on the other side. The falls are certainly 
 beautiful and picturesque, but not very grand or marvel- 
 lous. If the fills even of the Androscoggin at good eld 
 Brunswick were in Europe, they would be quite a ' lion' in 
 their way. 
 
 Having now ' done Switzerland,' you may ask, ' Have 
 we not scenery at home, equal to any in that land of won- 
 ders V And, at the risk, as Mr. Cooper says, of being 
 called unpatriotic and 'spoiled by travelling,' I must 
 say no — at least so far as my knowledge goes. The 
 1 Notch' at the White Mountains is equal in wildncss and 
 
238 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 grandeur to any scenery in Scotland ; of course it exceeds 
 any in England, and probably, the rest of Europe, which 
 is saying a good deal ; but Swiss scenery, t. e., among the 
 higher Alps, you must bear in mind, is on a vastly larger 
 scale than either. Think of mountains two or three times 
 as high as Mount Washington, in some cases rising almost 
 perpendicularly, or overhanging valleys eight or ten thou- 
 sand feet below, their summits tapering ofT in fantastic 
 shapes, and pyramids of rock. It is scenery of a different 
 character, probably, from any other ; unique in its wild 
 sublimity. So also with extensive prospects. Our Cats- 
 kill Mountain House is scarcely half as high as the Rhigi 
 Kulm, and as to the relative merits and variety of the 
 view, I would asrain refer you to Mr. Cooper's compari- 
 son. But witli these exceptions, we need not go abroad to 
 discover the ' beauties of nature.' Our rivers and river 
 scenery are as much superior to those of Europe as Niag- 
 ara is to the Falls of Trenton : even the far-fumed Rhine, 
 if I may judge from this portion of it, is not worthy to be 
 named with the Connecticut, far less with our noble Hud- 
 son. 
 
 The Swiss views, recently published, with letter press, 
 bv Dr. Beattie, are very correct as well as beautilul speci- 
 mens of art. They will give you a much better notion of 
 the country than any book I know of. You will perceive 
 I visited most of the originals, having passed through the 
 cantons of Geneva, Wallis, VVaadt, Freyburg, Ber^e, Lu- 
 zerne, Unterwalden, Schwvz, Zug, Zurich, and SchafF- 
 hausen, beside an excursion to Savoy and Piedmont. 
 
Swiss, vs. American Scenery. 239 
 
 How much Knowles' Mariaona says in the simple excla- 
 mation : 
 
 " Switzerland is a dear country — Switzerland !" 
 The name will always recall to me many pleasant associ- 
 ations. 
 
 I am not a little puzzled in choosing my route through 
 Germany. The most attractive is that through the Tyrol to 
 Bavaria, Munich, Prague, and Dresden; but it is a long tour, 
 and little travelled. ' The Glvptique' collection of the fine 
 arts at Munich, and the great Dresden Gallery, are doubtless 
 worthy of a visit ; but on the whole, I think I shall con- 
 tent myself wiih the sights of Frankfort, Lcipsic, Mayence, 
 the sail down the Rhine to Coblentz and Cologne, and 
 thence to Aix la Chapelle, and the cities of Belgium. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Schaffhausen — Carlsruhe — The Rhine to Mayence — Manhci?n, etc. 
 — Frankfort — Great Fair — German Smokers— Despotic Courte- 
 sy — Journey to Leipcie—Mr. Tav.chnilz — Book-Trade — Uni- 
 versity — Dining — Baltic of Lcipsic — Otho of Greece. 
 
 Carlsruhe, Dutchy of Baden, Sept. 5. — I was somewhat 
 amused by a good-looking Irish gentleman, who, after pay. 
 ing some pretty sensible compliments to the flavor of the 
 bon vins of mine host at Schaffhausen, very kindlv offered 
 me his confidence and friendship, ' free gratis for nothing/ 
 
240 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 and proposed a walk to the falls, observing by the way, 
 while telling me this, that, and the other, in the between- 
 you-and-me sort of a way, that a rascal, whom he had un- 
 suspectingly made his bosom friend and room-mate at Aix 
 la-Chapelle, had, with equal good nature, very benevolently 
 relieved him of the care of his purse and gold watch. 
 Poor Pat ! I fear he was in a fair way to be operated 
 upon again, with equal efficacy. 
 
 SchafThausen is a queer old Germanized town, quiet 
 and dull. The Hibernian and myself were the only guests 
 at the principal hotel. I had another dreary night ride 
 from thence to the frontier of this dutchy, where passports 
 and luggage were duly inspected. At sunset, I arrived at 
 OfFenbourg, a decent town, where I found a very nice inn, 
 kept by a nice man, who deals in wines and broken Eng- 
 lish. He entertained me excellently well, and sent me on 
 to this place this morning in an extra. We stopped to 
 dine at a town, which I took for our ultimatum, and lei- 
 surely disposed myself accordingly, when lo ! by mere 
 accident, I observed the carriage starting off, with my 
 portmanteaus safely behind. ' Ou allez vous V — ' a Carl- 
 sruhe !' So much for being among people of a strange 
 tongue. 
 
 There seemed to be a uniformity of costume in several 
 of the towns. Red vests and breeches and broad-brimmed 
 hats, were universal among men and boys ; i. e., of the 
 peasantry only, for they are a distinct order of beings on 
 the continent. The most laborious part of farming, etc., 
 is performed by the women ; the ' fair sex' here are 
 
Carlsruhe — The Upper Rhine* 241 
 
 expected to hold the plough, rake the hay, and dig the 
 potatos. What brutes must the men be ! 
 
 Carlsruhe, the duke of Baden's capital and residence, 
 is one of the neatest towns I have seen on the continent. 
 The streets are broad, straight, and well paved, and the 
 buildings all of stone, painted cream-color. The cha- 
 teau of the duke is in the form of a crescent, opposite a 
 block of private houses in similar style, thus making an 
 elegant circle, with a garden and orangery in the centre. 
 In the rear of the chateau, is an extensive hunting-park. 
 The whole of this dutchy appears to be one level plain, 
 not specially fertile ; and there is little to remark in riding 
 over it, except the extensive squadrons of geese, tended 
 by the lasses like flocks of sheep, and the battalions of 
 ganders, in the shape of the duke's soldiers. 
 
 Our introduction to his Serene Lowness the Rhine, did 
 not give us the most favorable impression of his majesty. 
 If one should see that part of the river between Switzer- 
 land and Mayence, and no more, he would pronounce its 
 far-famed beauties all a joke. It passes here through this 
 flat uninteresting dutchy, the banks affording nothing more 
 attractive than pine bushes, six feet high ; and the river 
 itself has lost its primitive attraction at Schaffhausen, 
 for here it is of a brown muddy color, instead of its once 
 transparent green. Occasionally, however, the monotony 
 of the shores is relieved by a pretty town, which, the at- 
 mosphere being clear, and the view unobstructed, may be 
 seen from a great distance. Among others, we passed 
 
 21 
 
242 Memoranda in Europe in 1830. 
 
 Spires and Worms, noted for their cathedrals, which are 
 very conspicuous objects from the river ; and Manheim, a 
 handsome town, with a fine palace, (now chiefly in ruins,) 
 in the midst of a beautiful park. Near Manheim is Hei- 
 delberg, celebrated for its university, which is the oldest 
 in Germany. These places are in the ' Grand Dutchy ' of 
 Hesse-Darmstadt, which adjoins that of Baden. The boat 
 stopped a short time at Manheim, and we went on shore to 
 see the palace. 
 
 It was dusk when we came in sight of the famous and 
 very pretty town of Mayence, our steamer passing through 
 the bridge of boats over the Rhine, which was promptly 
 opened to admit it. The spires, and domes of the town, as 
 seen from the river, give it quite an imposing appearance. 
 We stepped on the quay, with very little bustle, and with- 
 out any obstruction or examination. The hotels near the 
 river were all full, but we found good lodgings at the « Trois 
 Couronnes' in the interior. I shall proceed to-morrow to 
 Frankfort and Leipsic, with the intention of returning here 
 to take the Rhine to Cologne. 
 
 Frankfort on the Maine, Sept. 7. — The ride from May- 
 ence to this city occupied three hours and a half. The 
 approach to Frankfort is not remarkable, except for the 
 beautiful grounds and gardens laid out on the site of the 
 ancient walls and fortifications in the environs. Frank- 
 fort, you know, is one of the four free cities of Germany,* 
 (Hanse-Towns,) and is entirely independent of any other 
 
 * The others are Hamburgh, Bremen, and Lubeck. 
 
Manheim — Frankfort — Fair — Smoking. 243 
 
 state, being a coequal member of the Germanic confede- 
 ration, and important also as the seat of the Diet. Some 
 parts of the city are very handsome, and the whole has an 
 air of busy prosperity : it seems to be very like Paris, on 
 a smaller scale. The hotels are renowned for their size 
 and excellence : and as the great semi-annual Fair is in 
 operation, they are abundantly well patronized. This Fair 
 is quite an important affair to the city : all the public squares, 
 quays, etc., are filled with temporary stalls and ' maga- 
 zines' of articles, manufactured in different parts of Ger- 
 many, the merchant announcing himself 'from Berlin,' or 
 Dresden, or Leipsic. They often bring samples, only, of 
 their wares, and from them make extensive ' package sales.' 
 I should think that one half, at least, of these stalls were fill- 
 ed with pipes — a fair illustration of the smoking propensities 
 of the Germans. These pipes are long and clumsy, but 
 most of them are very prettily ornamented. The Ger- 
 mans are verily inveterate lovers of the weed. They 
 smoke every where and on all occasions ; the toll-keeper 
 puffs away while he opens the gate, the conducteur, regu- 
 lating the diligence, the shop-keeper, while he makes your 
 bill. All classes and degrees arc alike in this respect — 
 the duke, the ' professor,' the peasant. The charms of the 
 practice are especially exemplified in the interior of a 
 crowded diligence on a hot day, when three fourths of the 
 passengers are doing their best to suffocate one another 
 with fumes of smoke from pipes, ami brimstone from match- 
 es. Remonstrance from a novice in the science is vain. 
 
244 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 for though otherwise polite and obliging, they seem to 
 think smoking so much a matter of course, to prize it above 
 their meat and drink, even above their wine, that they do 
 not imagine it can be disagreeable. 
 
 The river Maine, which fulls into the Rhine at Mayence, 
 or Mainz, is an insignificant stream, only navigable by flat 
 boats which go down with the current, and are drawn up 
 by horses, as in canals. Frankfort is built on both sides 
 of the river, but the greater part is on the north. The 
 quays are broad, and afford a handsome architectural dis- 
 play, the buildings being all of a light cream color, like 
 those of the French capital. I observed no very splendid 
 public buildings, but the principal street, containing seve- 
 ral of the great hotels, is very spacious and stately. In 
 the Hotel de Ville is preserved, among other archives, the 
 original of the celebrated ' Golden Bull. 1 
 
 Leipsic, September 10. — Here am I, in the very heart 
 of Germany, in the centre of Europe, within ten hours' 
 ride of Dresden, one day of Berlin, two of Prague, three 
 of Munich, four of Warsaw, ten of St. Petersburgh, and 
 a few more of Rome, Constantinople, and Jerusalem, all 
 of which I would fain honor with a visit, did time and the 
 ' needful' permit ; at present, however, this will be my ul- 
 timatum, and to-morrow I shall commence what the French- 
 man said Napoleon did, after the memorable battle of this 
 same Leipsic, not a retreat, but a mouvementretrogra.de to- 
 ward home. My journeyings will now be toward the set- 
 ting instead of the rising sun. 
 
Frankfort to Leipsic — Diligences, etc. 245 
 
 The ride to this city proved, as I expected, extremely 
 tedious and disagreeable. We left Frankfort at half past 
 nine, P. ML, and were forty-one hours, including two nights, 
 on the way; the distance being two hundred and twenty 
 miles. 1 was again doomed to the interieur, amid five 
 smokers, as usual, neither of whom could speak English 
 or French ; and the idea of the mistakes and vexations to 
 which my solitary ignorance exposed me, was any thing 
 but comfortable. I escaped, however, with nothing worse 
 than the loss of a cloak in the Frankfort diligence ; for on 
 coming to the Prussian dominions, we were transferred to a 
 respectable vehicle, on which was inscribed : 
 'Ifcontfl. Drcugg, 
 
 <SlKIUll#0<it.' 
 
 (Query, mail or snail ? It Hoes not merit the latter appella- 
 tion so well as some of the French, to say the least.) The 
 public conveyances on the continent are all driven by a 
 postillion, in a kind of livery, with 'seven league boots/ a 
 trumpet with tawdry tassels, and a leathern hat : he always 
 rides the ' nigh horse,' and never goes more than one post, 
 as each 'team' has its own postillion. Every diligence 
 is superintended by a conductcur, who has the best scat in 
 the coupe, but does nothing himself, except delivering the 
 mails and small parcels on the way. The French and Swiss 
 conducteurs are often surly and uncivil, but those in Prussia 
 are very attentive, good-looking, and even well educated. 
 The most learned doctors of the university will converse 
 with them on familiar terms, with deference and respect 
 21* 
 
246 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 There is evidently much less exclusiveness in grades, 
 and less show of haughty superiority in the wealthy, and 
 even the noble, in these despotic countries, than in liberal 
 and enlightened England. From the Grand Duke down- 
 ward, it is usual to give a bow and a ' Ion jour] or ' adieu] 
 to the meanest servant in return for the same salutations : 
 and these courtesies certainly do not seem to be miscon- 
 strued into that familiarity which breeds contempt, but 
 rather to strengthen respect and attachment to the superior. 
 
 In coming to Leipsic from Switzerland, I passed through 
 no less than eight independent states and principalities, viz : 
 the ' Grand Dutchics ' of Baden, Hesse-Darmstadt, Saxe- 
 Weimar, Saxe-Gotha, Hesse-Cassel, the free city of Frank- 
 fort, and the kingdoms of Prussia and Saxony. The 
 boundaries of these great-little dutchies are marked by a 
 stone on the way-side, rose ibed, ' Weimar,' ' Gotha,' etc., 
 as the case may be. 1 observed nothing else to indicate 
 that the country was governed by so many different masters. 
 There is nothing on the route deserving the name of 
 scenery: even a gentle hill to relieve the dull, tame pros- 
 pect of long and often barren plains, occurs but seldom. 
 Of the towns I shall see more on my return. 
 
 I was sorry to find that the noted book-publisher, Mr. 
 Tauchnitz, Senior, died of apoplexy, very suddenly, a few 
 months since. His son, who continues the business, is a 
 very courteous and intelligent man, and speaks English 
 fluently. He received me very kindly, and invited me to 
 dine with him at twelve o'clock, m. ! In England, I was 
 
* Despotic' Courtesy — German Book Trade. 247 
 
 several times invited to dine at seven, P. M. The usual 
 dinner hour at hotels in Germany is one. 
 
 Before dinner, Mr. T. escorted me to the lions. In 
 the principal Lutheran church, I was a little surprised to 
 see paintings, altars and images! — things opposed, as I 
 thought, to the very spirit of Lutheranism. 
 
 The hooksellers have just completed a handsome Ex- 
 change, where the brethren of the 'trade' from all parts 
 of Germany assemble semi-annually, at the Easter and 
 Michaelmas fairs, to settle accounts, and make sales of 
 new books, etc., by sample. The book trade is carried on 
 here very extensively, and with a great deal of system. 
 Leipsic is the head quarters for the business in all the Ger- 
 man states, and all publishers in other places have their 
 agents here. You will be surprised, perhaps, at the fad, 
 that the number of new books published annually in Ger- 
 many, is greater than all issued during the same time in 
 Great Britain and France put together.* What a nation 
 of book-makers! What a mass of intellect in active ex- 
 ercise ! In a country not much exceeding in extent the 
 single state of New- York, there are six thousand new 
 works, comprising nine millions of volumes, printed every 
 year, beside reprints of old works, and all pamphlets and 
 periodicals! One would think the Germans ought to be 
 a learned people ! 
 
 * The average Dumber <>t new works per annum, issued for the first 
 time in Great Hriiain in the last three years, is about 1200; in France, 
 4,000; in Germany, (3,000. 
 
248 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Mr. Tauchnitz's establishment is one of the most ex- 
 tensive in the trade. He showed me the stereotype plates 
 of his well-known editions of the Greek and Latin classics, 
 of which he publishes a complete series, in an economical, 
 pure text form, one set filling a box twenty inches square. 
 So you may easily ascertain the exact bulk of all the in- 
 tellect of antiquity ! 
 
 The Leipsic University, which is one of the oldest in 
 Germany, is also about to occupy a neat and extensive edi- 
 fice just completed. The ancient fortifications of Leipsic, 
 like those of Frankfort, have been removed, and the space 
 they occupied is laid out in gardens and public promenades ; 
 a change decidedly for the better, as every peaceable man 
 will say.* As to beauty of architecture, this city has 
 little remarkable ; the buildings are mostly antique and 
 uncouth, and the streets narrow, and without side-walks. 
 
 At dinner to-day, at Mr. , the second dish consist- 
 ed of thin slices of two sorts of fish, literally raw. It 
 seemed to be regarded as a rare delicacy, but I could not 
 stretch my politeness enough to do justice to it. The din- 
 ner, otherwise, was excellent. You know the old man 
 who made the ' Bubbles from the Brunnens,' feelingly de- 
 scribes his consternation at the never-ending courses of a 
 German public table ; but he does not mention two-thirds 
 of the dishes I have tasted at a single sitting. The feast 
 commences, all the world over, with soup ; then comes 
 
 * A happy combination of safety, beauty, and convenience, is shown 
 in the ramparts of the city of Geneva. 
 
Leipsic University — Dinner — Battle Field. 249 
 
 the dry soup-meat, * which a Grosvenor-Square cat would 
 not touch with his whiskers!' but which is nevertheless 
 rendered quite palatable by a highly. seasoned gravy ; then, 
 cutlets, omelets, and messes of various sons ; followed by 
 poultry, wild fowls, beef, etc. ; fifthly, pudding, which 
 with us is a sign that the meat is disposed of ; but lo ! 
 'sixthly and lastly' comes a huge quarter of veal, roast 
 chickens, young lobsters, sallad, etc. ; seventhly, tarts and 
 confectionary ; ' and to conclude,' a desert of prunes, 
 grapes, peaches, cakes, etc., the whole capped by sundry 
 nibbles at a fair, round cheese, or peradventure, as to-day, 
 with coffee, in Lilliputian cups, which looked like baby's 
 play- things. Verily, one has a chance of finding some- 
 thing to his taste in this variety. 
 
 After dinner, Mr. Tauchnitz ordered his barouche, 
 with two beautiful bays, and a footman in livery, (Mr. T. 
 is a book-seller,) and we rode out to the field of the mem- 
 orable battle of 1813, about a mile from the town. The 
 whole vicinity of Leipsic, for several miles, is one vast 
 plain, which has always been, and probably will continue 
 to be, the theatre of battles, when the nations of Europe 
 see fit to fight at all. We walked to a slight elevation, 
 where Napoleon had his head-quarters during the battle. 
 The French had garrisoned the town for six years previ- 
 ous ; consequently they I'd I heir choice of position. Na- 
 poleon had made a mouvemeni retrograde from Dresden, 
 after giving up his second expedition to Russia ; he was 
 followed by the allied army; and here they met. Three 
 
250 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 days' hard righting, and the slaughter of twenty thousand 
 men was the consequence. The French were routed ; 
 but their possession of the town enabled them to proceed 
 in their retrograde toward Frankfort, (the same route I 
 had come,) and on the fourth day the allies entered Leip- 
 sic. Mr. T. was on the field during the fighf, and he gave 
 me a graphic description of it. ' Here stood Blucher, with 
 his Prussians ; there, Prince Schwartzenberg and the Aus- 
 trians.' What a scene of horror must that field have 
 been, when twenty thousand human beings lay there, 
 bloody corpses, and half as many more had fallen, wound- 
 ed and mangled, sighing for death as a relief from their 
 misery ! 
 
 Otho, the young king of Greece, is now in Leipsic on 
 a visit. He is shortly to be married to a German princess, 
 whose name I have forgotten. 
 
English Language — Where Spoken? 251 
 
 XX. 
 
 GERMANY, CONTINUED. 
 
 Return to Frankfort — English Language and where spoken — Pro- 
 fessor Wolff — Reminiscences on the Route — Jews — Beauty — 
 Frankfort full — Mayence at Midnight — Sail down the Rhine — 
 Castles — Ruins — Legends — Coblenlz — Peculiar Beauties of the 
 Rhine. 
 
 Mayence, Sept. 13. — At six, P. M., on the tenth, 1 was 
 again in the diligence. There were but three passengers ; 
 one of them asked me in German to sit with him in the in- 
 terior, but having persuaded him in English into a coupe' 
 seat, he complacently remarked that he was pretty sure, 
 from the first, that I was English. I declined the honor, 
 with equal good nature. 'Scotch?' No. 'Irish?' No. 
 He looked puzzled. ' You must have spoken English 
 from childhood?' 'Yes. I never spoke any other lan- 
 guage.' ■ Perhaps you have resided some time in Eng- 
 land V ' Never was there but three months.' Curious 
 whether he would discover me, I left him room to guess. 
 
 'From the East Indies?' No. ' But you arc a Brit- 
 ish subject ?' Oh, no. I acknowledge no king whatever. 
 
 'South America?' (!) No. 
 
 And strange to say, I was the first, after all, to hint 
 that there was a republic usually called the United States 
 of America. It did not occur to him, at the moment, that 
 
252 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 the English language was known to some extent in ' our 
 country ;' but singularly enough, when the happy land 
 was mentioned, 1 found him far from being ignorant cf it. 
 He had read of our ' manners' from his own Duke of Saxe- 
 Weimar down to Captain Hall and the Trollope; and he 
 was now writing a critical essay on American poetry. 
 In short, he was Dr. O. L. B. Wolff, professor of belles- 
 lettres in the University of Jena ; the author, you will re- 
 collect, of the History of German Literature in the London 
 Athenaeum, and of the other essays which have made his 
 name well known with us. lie seemed a good deal 
 interested in our literature, and we beguiled the hours far 
 into the night, in learned talk, parting near the battle-field 
 of Jena, with mutual promises of future correspondence. 
 
 The road lies over several memorable fields. Near 
 Lutzen, they pointed to a stone, ' Voila la Gustave tomber !' 
 It was the spot where the * Great Gustavus' Adolphus fell, 
 in the thirty years' war. We passed the house where 
 Charles XII. of Sweden signed his treaty with the Elector 
 of Saxony. At Erfurt is the cell where Martin Lu- 
 ther lived when he was an Augustine friar. At Gotha, 
 Weimar, Eisenbach, and Fultla, the capitals of their 
 respective duchies, are the ' chateaux de residence.' 
 
 The approaches to most of the continental towns are 
 through long avenues, shaded by elms or poplars, extend- 
 ing sometimes a couple of miles. One naturally looks for 
 something handsome, after passing such an imposing por- 
 tal ; but it does not always follow. One of the finest of 
 
Jews — Ladies — Salutations. 253 
 
 these triumphal arches leads to a filthy hamlet, which 
 would disgrace our backwoods. 
 
 They have a peculiar costume, at one of these towns ; 
 but in general, there is no costume in Germany. Both at 
 Frankfort and Leipsic, I noticed two remarkable items, 
 the Jews and the pretty girls. The Jews wear long black 
 gowns and girdles, with beards of nearly equal length. 
 They seem to be here a distinct and ' peculiar people.' 
 As to the German ladies, there is certainly more beauty 
 among them than I have seen elsewhere in Europe. 
 
 I was somewhat diverted with a prevalant custom of 
 the Germans — that of embracing and kissing each other, 
 when taking leave. I refer of course, to the men ; for an 
 affectionate salutation of this sort to the ladies, it would be 
 unpardonable to omit. But to see the ■ grave and reverend 
 seignors' bussing each other, is a little queer. 
 
 My second entrance into Frankfort was from a better 
 point of view, crossing the stone bridge over the Main. I 
 had been riding four nights, sans sleep, and in the vulgar 
 phrase, was ' quite done up.' It was of course delightful 
 to find that the ' fair' had so thoroughly filled the domicils 
 of every publican in the place, that not a nook or a corner 
 in all those immense hotels was to be had for love or 
 money. I wandered here and there, houseless and alone till 
 dusk, with a fair prospect of a loafer-like lodging in the 
 street ! This was actually the only alternative to going off 
 at ten P. M., to Mayence. There were probably at least 
 ten thousand strangers in the place at that moment. 
 
 The entrance into Mayence, at one o'clock at night, 
 22 
 
254 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 was quite impressive. On the opposite side of the river, 
 in Cassel, is an extensive military establishment, through 
 the gates and court of which we had to pass. The postil- 
 ion sounded a martial air on his trumpet, and the sentinel, 
 opening the ponderous gates, admitted us to the bridge of 
 boats, on which we crossed the Rhine to the city. Every 
 thing was still and quiet, but our rumbling diligence ; the 
 stars and the lights of the town were looking at their por- 
 traits in the river. At the city portals, another blast of the 
 trumpet* procured us admission, but no living thing was 
 to be seen, except the military ' guardians of the night.' 
 
 To-day it rains torrents. So I will merely tell you, 
 in guide book style, that Mayence, as well as Cologne, 
 owes its origin to the Romans, and was occasionally the 
 residence of some of the emperors. The city has also 
 been an electorcate of the German empire, but at present 
 it belongs to Prussia ; and it is remarkable, that, with a 
 population of thirty-two thousand, it has a garrison of twelve 
 thousand soldiers. It claims the honor of being the birth- 
 place of Guttenberg, one. at least, of the inventors of print- 
 ing, of whom there is a statue in one of the squares. I 
 have been to see the cathedral, noted only for antiquity, 
 
 * The ' Old Man' of the Bubbles denounces these trumpets, but 
 verily they are preferable to the long tin horns of the English 'guards,' 
 which are indeed enough to 
 
 "break the bands of sleep asunder 
 
 And rouse him like a rattling peal of thunder 
 
 Hark, hark'! the horrid sound ; 
 He raises his head as if waked from the dead, 
 
 And amazed he stares around !" 
 
Mayence — Sail down the Rhine. 255 
 
 and for the numerous monuments and statues of church dig- 
 nitaries in the interior. 
 
 Coblentz, (on the Rhine,) September. — The steam-boat 
 left the quay at Mayence this morning at six, with about 
 one hundred passengers, mostly English, on their home- 
 ward retreat. For two or three miles, the banks of the 
 river continued to be low and tame. We passed the pal- 
 ace of the Grand Duke of Nassau, a fine edifice, near the 
 river. The classical Brunnens of Langen-Schwalbach are 
 a few miles in the interior. 
 
 We were this day to see the only interesting part of 
 the ' glorious Rhine,' that between Mayence and Cologne. 
 Along here, there are a plenty of little islands, and the 
 banks of the river abound with picturesque rocky crags, 
 capped by ruins of castles, and relieved here and there by 
 a green meadow^ a vineyard, or a neat village. Johannis- 
 berg, a chateau belonging to Prince Metternich, is one of 
 the first from Mayence. This estate has fifty-five acres of 
 vine-grounds, from whence comes the most celebrated of 
 the Rhenish wines. Speaking of Me'ternich, 1 need 
 not remind you of his portraiture as l Bcekendorf,' in that 
 unique production, ' Vivian Grey.' Then we passed the 
 ruins of Klopp and Ehrenfels,* Vantsberg castle, at pres- 
 
 * Among the Rhenish legends, versified by Planche, is one of the 
 'Mouse-Tower,' near Ehrenfels, commencinir .• 
 
 " The Bishop of Mcntz was a wealthy prince, 
 w thby and proud waa he ; 
 
 He had all that was worth a wish on earth, 
 But he had not charitie ! 
 
256 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 ent occupied, from which we were saluted with a gun ; the 
 ruins of Falkeuberg, Guttenfels, Scheauberg, and the 
 
 He would stretch out his empty hands to bless, 
 
 Or lift them both to pray; 
 But, alack ! to lighten man's distress, 
 
 They moved no other way." 
 
 A famine came; the poor begged in vain for aid, till he { opened his 
 granaries free,' and then locked them in, and ' burned them every one.* 
 ' The merry mice! how shrill they squeak !' said the prelate : 
 
 "But mark what an awful judgement soon 
 
 On the cruel bishop fell ! 
 With so many mice his palace swarm'd, 
 
 That in it he could not dwell. 
 They gnaw'd the arras above and beneath, 
 
 They eat each savory dish up, 
 And shortly their sacrilegious teeth 
 
 Began to nibble the bishop ! 
 
 "He flew to the castle of Ehrenfels, 
 
 By the side of the Rhine so fair, 
 But they found the road to his new abode, 
 
 And came in legions there ! 
 He built him in haste a tower so tall 
 
 In the tide, for his better assurance, 
 But they swam the river, and scal'd the wall, 
 
 And worried him past endurance ! 
 
 " One morning his skeleton there was seen, 
 
 By a load of flesh the lighter ! 
 They had pick'd his bones uncommonly clean, 
 
 And eaten his very mitre ! 
 Such was the end of the bishop of Mentz ; 
 
 And oft at midnight hour, 
 He comes in the shape of a fog so dense, 
 
 And sits on his old 'Mouse -tower." 
 
Legends of the Rhine. 257 
 
 rocks of 'the Seven Sisters' in the river;* Sternberg and 
 Liebenstein, 'the Brothers,' etc., all famed by many a pa- 
 
 * Perhaps you may be amused by this legend. It runs as follows: 
 
 "The Castle of Schdenberg was lofty and fair, 
 
 And seven countesses ruled there : 
 
 Lovely, and noble, and wealthy I trow — 
 
 Every sister had suiters enow. 
 
 Crowned duke and belted knight 
 
 Sigh'd at the feet of those ladies bright : 
 
 And they whispered hope to every one, 
 
 While they vow'd in their hearts they would have none ! 
 
 Gentles, list to the tale I tell: 
 'Tis many a year since this befel: 
 Women are altered now, I ween, 
 And never say what they do not mean ! 
 
 " At the Castle of Schdenberg 'twas merriment all- 
 There was dancing in bower, and feasting in hall; 
 They ran at the ring in the tilt-yard gay, 
 And the moments flew faster than thought away ! 
 But not only moments — the days fled loo — 
 And they were but as when they first came to woo ; 
 And spake they of marriage or bliss deferr'd, 
 They were silenced by laughter and scornful word ! 
 
 Gentles, list to the tale I tell ; 
 'Tis many a year since this befel, 
 And ladies now so mildly reign, 
 They never sport with a lover's pain ! 
 
 " Knight look'd upon knight with an evil eye- 
 Each fancied a favored rival nich ; 
 And darker every day they frowned, 
 And sharper still the taunt went round, 
 Till swords were drawn, and lances in rest, 
 And the blood ran down from each noble breast ; 
 While the sisters >;i t in their chairs ofgold, 
 And smiled at the fall of their champions bold ! 
 22* 
 
258 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 thetic legend. There are also the pretty villages of 
 Rudesheim, Geisenheim, Bingen, Oberwesel, Saint Goar, 
 and others too tedious to mention ; and the rock of Lure- 
 ley, with an echo which repeats seven times. 
 
 The steamboat is now before the castle of Ehrenbreit- 
 stein, the strongest fortress in Europe, built on a rocky 
 elevation, commanding the river for several miles. The 
 city of Coblentz, nearly opposite, and connected with it by 
 a floating bridge, is strongly fortified, and garrisoned by 
 five thousand Prussian soldiers. It was founded by Drusus, 
 the Roman general, thirteen years before Christ. 
 
 Cologne, lAth. — I am now in the ancient and honorable 
 city of ' Les Trois Rois,' and of the eleven thousand vir- 
 gins. 
 
 On leaving Coblentz, the shores are again ' flat and 
 stale,' (though perhaps not ' unprofitable' to the vinters,) 
 
 Gentles, list to the tale I tell ; 
 'Tis many a year since this befel, 
 Times have changed, we must allow, 
 Countesses are not so cruel now. 
 
 "Morning dawn'd upon Sehoenberg's towers. 
 But the sisters were not in their wonted bowers, 
 Their damsels sought them the castles o'er — 
 But upon earth they were seen no more ; 
 Seven rocks are in the tide, 
 Ober-wesel's walls beside, 
 Baring their cold brows to heaven : 
 They are called, ' The Sisters Seven.' 
 
 Gentles, list to the tale I tell ; 
 'Tis many a year since this befel : 
 And ladies now may love deride, 
 And their suitors alone be petrified !" 
 
Cohlentz — Peculiar Beauties of the Rhine. 259 
 
 until thou comest unto Remagen, when there are a few 
 miles of the picturesque, and then the scenery of the Rhine 
 is finished. On the score of natural beauty, it would take 
 a good many Rhines to make a Hudson ; but, as Willis 
 says, here we are constantly reminded of the past ; history, 
 tradition, and song, have given every thing a charm, and 
 even these rough old ruins are tinted with a couleur de 
 rose ; but amidst the hills, and streams, and forests, of the 
 so-called new world, our thoughts stretch forward to the 
 future. We have already the rich material, and perhaps 
 the time will come when Europe may not claim superiority, 
 even in works of art, or in historical associations and re- 
 miniscences ; albeit we have no princely palaces or baro. 
 nial strong-holds, and, thanks to our democratic rulers ! 
 we are in no immediate danger of them. 
 
 But the Rhine is interesting — intensely so ; and I can 
 
 only regret, my dear , that you are not here to share 
 
 with me this long-wished-for pleasure. 
 
 "The castled crag of Drachenfels 
 
 Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
 
 Between the banks which bear the vine, 
 And hills all rich with hlossom'd trees, 
 
 And fields with promise corn and wine, 
 And scatter'd cities crowning these, 
 
 Whose far white wnlls along them shine, 
 Havestrew'd a scene which I should see 
 With double joy, wert thuu with me. 
 
 " And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, 
 And handi which oiler early flowers, 
 Walk smiling o'er this paradise, 
 Above, the frequent feudal towcra 
 
260 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, 
 And many a rock, which steeply lowers, 
 
 And noble arch in proud decay, 
 
 Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers, 
 
 But one thing want these banks of Rhine — 
 
 Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine. 
 
 " The river nobly foams and flows, 
 
 The charm of this enchanted ground, 
 And all its thousand turns disclose 
 
 Some fresher beauty varying round, 
 The haughtiest breast its wish might bound 
 
 Through life to dwell delighted here, 
 Nor could on earth a spot be found 
 
 To nature and to me more dear, 
 Could thy dear eyes, in following mine, 
 Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine." 
 
 If misery loves company, as the proverb says, why 
 should not happiness be also sociably disposed ? There is 
 to me a special loneliness in being in these regions of song, 
 with a crowd of strangers, but with no ' congenial spirit,' 
 who in after days would recall to us the fond recollection of 
 happy hours passed together in the distant land ; who with 
 a single word might bring vividly before us a glowing 
 panorama of scenes remembered as a dream. And is 
 there not even more enjoyment in these remembrances, 
 than in the ' first impression V 
 
 Beside the Drachenfels, there are a score of ruins this 
 side of Coblentz, such as Rolandzeck, Godesberg, and 
 other hard names ; and we also passed the pretty town of 
 Bonn, the seat of an ancient and well-endowed university. 
 From one of the castles, near the river, we were saluted 
 with three cheers by the garrison. 
 
Landing at Cologne. 261 
 
 To-morrow I shall write from Aix-la-Chapelle, for 
 here I must say, albeit not in the Byronic vein, 
 
 "Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted 
 The stranger fain would linger on his way ; 
 Thine is a scene alike where souls united, 
 Or lonely Contemplation thus might stray, 
 And could the ceaseless vulture cease to prey 
 On self-condemning bosoms, it wtre here, 
 Where nature, not too sombre nor too gay, 
 Wild, but not rude, awful, but not austere, 
 
 Is to the mellow earth as autumn to the year." 
 
 XXI. 
 
 PRUSSIA BELGIUM. 
 
 Cologne — Government, etc. of Prussia — Cathedral — Arx la Ctta- 
 pelle — Charlemagne — Relics — Liege — Qucntin Duncard — Na- 
 mur — The Mzust — Waterloo — Brussels — Park — Churches — &m- 
 perslilion — Palaes — Railroads — Antwerp— Cathedral— Ciladellc 
 — Rubens — Church Tower — Chimes— Ghent — Bruges — Ostend 
 — Retrospective. 
 
 Cologne, Sept. 14//i. — On the arrival of the steam-boat, 
 (alias, damschijfen, or le batteau d vapeur,) the bells of the 
 town were ringing, cannons firing, a band of music play- 
 ing, and the quays were filled with at least five thousand 
 people, who were kept in order by a party of soldiers. 
 Some distinguished personage seemed to be expecied in 
 the boat, but there was none forthcoming. The military 
 cleared a passage through the crowd, and we landed with- 
 
202 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 out any confusion, although it was dark, and there were 
 three hundred passengers (picked up on the way )_ t to be 
 supplied with porters and lodgings; and the place was 
 known to be full. At the fourth hotel I applied to, alone, 
 in the dark, in a strange place, I succeeded in securing an 
 attic ; but many others were even less fortunate. 
 
 After supper, I made a sally through the principal 
 streets, which are well lighted with gas. It seems to be a 
 busy and cheerful place, much like Paris ; buildings irregu- 
 lar, streets crooked, and ill-paved. The far-famed Eau- 
 de-Cologne forms a considerable article of its trade, and 
 has contributed not a little to familiarize its name all over 
 the world. The four brothers Farina rival each other in 
 the manufacture ; but the most noted artist is Jean Maria 
 Farina. I took a peep into his establishment ; and were 
 it not that His Majesty of England would make me pay 
 for it over again, I should like to send you some of the 
 1 genuine article.' 
 
 Aix la Chaj)eJJe, Sept. 15/7*. — My present date is from 
 the city of Charlemagne. To begin where I left off. 
 While writing last evening in my lofty apartment, looking 
 out upon the Rhine, the music on the quay suddenly re- 
 commenced, and the enthusiastic shouts of the populace 
 announced that the expected visiter had arrived. It proved 
 to be the crown prince of Prussia, and his two brothers. 
 Prussia now extends, as you are aware, this side of the 
 Rhine as far as Aix. The present king and all his 
 family are said to be exceedingly popular with the people. 
 The government, although in theory despotic, is evidently 
 
Prussian Government — Cologne Calhedral. 263 
 
 mild and liberal in practice. In education, I need not tell 
 you, Prussia stands pre-eminent ; and if you are curious 
 for information on this poim, I would refer you to the re- 
 cent report of Victor Cousin.* The regulations of the 
 police, the public conveyances, etc., in the Prussian do- 
 minions, are certainly excellent. 
 
 I was early awake this morning, in order to finish ex- 
 ploring Cologne before six, the starting hour for Aix. Es- 
 corted by a young cicerone, who 'politely volunteered his 
 services,' I went first to the cathedral, one of the most 
 celebrated on the continent. Five hundred years have 
 elapsed since this edifice was commenced, and yet it is 
 scarcely half finished ! The choir only is quite completed, 
 and this is very elaborately decorated within and without. 
 The grass is actually growing on the towers, which have 
 as yet attained but one third of their intended elevation, 
 (five hundred feet,) and being connected with the choir 
 merely by a temporary structure, they look like ruins of a 
 separate edifice. Yet, even in its present state, the cathe- 
 dral of Cologne is a wonderful specimen of human inge- 
 nuity and perseverance. 1 followed my cicerone to the 
 head of the choir, behind the great ultar, where he pointed 
 to a richly-ornamented monument as the tomb of the 
 1 Three Kings of Cologne. 1 It is to be hoped you are 
 versed in the veritable histor)' of these same three kings, as 
 well as that of the eleven thousand virgins before mention- 
 
 * Report on the State of Public Education in Prussia, etc. New- 
 York. Wiley & Putnam. 
 
264 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 ed, for neither memory nor time will permit me to edify you 
 in * legendary lore.' 
 
 Mass had already commenced, at this early hour, and 
 the good people were kneeling reverently on the marble 
 floor, saying their paternosters and counting their beads, 
 or watching, with humble simplicity, the movements of the 
 priests before the altar. I observed one of the boys, em- 
 ployed to swing the censers of burning incense, turn round 
 occasionally, with a piteous yawn. The painted windows 
 in this cathedral are very elaborate and beautiful. 1 had 
 time to 'drop in' to several other churches during matins, 
 where I saw much that was curious and dazzling, and heard 
 some fine organ-music. 
 
 There were twenty-two passengers ' booked* for Aix, 
 and according to law, they were obliged to send extras for 
 as many as applied before the hour. This route to Brus- 
 sels and Ostend is much travelled by the English, in pre- 
 ference to continuing on the Rhine to Rotterdam. 
 
 It was a bright morning again, and the ride proved 
 rather pleasant, though somewhat monotonous. The country 
 for several miles out of Cologne, is nearly level, and almost 
 quite treeless : near the city, it is laid out in one vast 
 vegetable-garden, without any inclosure, as is often the 
 case on the continent. Poaching does not seem to be 
 dreamed of. The fortifications of Cologne, and those of 
 Juliers, our first stopping-place, are of the most substantial 
 kind. Juliers is surrounded by three distinct walls, each 
 about twenty feet thick, and separated by broad deep ditches, 
 
Charlem ague — ' Sacred' Relics. 265 
 
 or canals. And yet in the present refined state of the art 
 of war, this fortress is far from being impregnable. 
 
 We arrived at Aix at 3 P. M., and having taken a 
 place for an evening ride to Liege, and had my passport 
 vised at the Hotel de Ville, the next thing was to visit the 
 cathedral containing the bones of the great Charlemagne. 
 His tomb is under the floor, in the centre of the church, 
 and is covered by a plain marble slab, on which is inscrib- 
 ed in lofty simplicity, 
 
 'CAROLUS MAGNO.' 
 
 After looking at the throne of the ' grand monarque,' 
 and at the immense windows of the choir, (remarkable for 
 the lightness and elegance of their frames.) we were con- 
 ducted by a priest to a closet, or sanctum sanctorum, to 
 see the famous cabinet of precious relics.* I send you a 
 printed account of these veritable relics, and as to their 
 authenticity, it is to be hoped your bump of marvelous, 
 ness is too large to permit you to doubt. Will you not 
 
 * Among them are, the point of the nail with which Christ was 
 pierced on the cross ; a piece of the identic,-;! cross ; the leathern L r ir- 
 dle, and a piece of the winding-sheet of Christ: nurceaux of the hair 
 of John the Baptist; of the chain with which St. Peter was bound; 
 of the sponge on which they gave vinegar to Christ; a tooth of St. 
 Thom is; the winding-sheet of the Virgin, Inside relics of Saints in- 
 numerable These are all printed in a book, and of course they 
 must be true! But the Charlems you will not question. 
 
 They are his hunting-horn, (an elephant's tusk,) a piece of his arm, 
 and his leg; his coronation swi.nl, and to crown all, the skull of the 
 emperor himself, taken from the tomb, and pr- served in a brazen 
 casque. And so I have actually bandied the skull of this redoubtable 
 hero and warrior, the ruler of Europe one thousand years ago ! 
 
 23 
 
266 Memoranda in Europe in 1830. 
 
 look upon me with a ' thrilling interest,' when I tell you 
 that I have seen and touched them with my bodily hands ? 
 They gravely tell you how the 'sacred' articles were ob- 
 tained, and how they were presented to Charlemagne by 
 the patriarch of Jerusalem. I doubt not they really find 
 them precious articles of speculation, and would be griev- 
 ed to hear a suspicion of their being genuine. The linens 
 worn by the virgin when Christ was born, are among those 
 too sacred for common eyes, and are only shown in seven 
 years, with much ' pomp and circumstance.' 
 
 By the way, I saw also the splendid crown of Isabella 
 of Castile and Arragon, (the patron of Columbus.) of pure 
 gold, covered with diamonds. And in London I forgot to 
 tell you of Charlemagne's Bible, a magnificent folio ms., 
 on parchment, richly illuminated, etc. It had intrinsic and 
 unquestioned evidence of being executed for the emperor 
 by Eginhard, the historian of that period. It was ' bought 
 in' at auction, for £1500, ($7,500,) but finally sold to the 
 British Museum. But you must be tired of relics. 
 
 Liege, September 16. — Last evening I reconnoitred the 
 town of Aix la Chapelle, heard two acts of the « Marriage 
 of Figaro' admirably sung in the Grecian Opera- House, 
 and then stepped into the ' Schnell Post.' On the frontiers 
 of Belgium, about midnight, we were stopped at a ' Bureau 
 de Police,' our luggage was all taken off and searched, 
 and our passports examined, during which operations we 
 all 'kept our patience,' save a poor Frenchman, who had 
 to pay duty on a couple of boxes of cologne, snugly stow- 
 
Liege — ■ Quenlin BurmaniV Scenes. 267 
 
 ed in his trunk. After rewarding the worthy gentlemen 
 for their politeness, we were suffered to proceed. 
 
 Liege, you will recollect, beside being famous in history, 
 was the scene of the tragedy so vividly pictured in ' Quen- 
 tin Durward,' the murder of the bishop by the ' Wild Boar 
 of Ardennes.' The bishop's palace was a short distance 
 from the town, but no traces of it remain. His city pa- 
 lace, (noted for its eccentric architecture, each of the inte- 
 rior pillars being in a different style,) is now used as a 
 market-house. Liege is built on both sides of the river 
 Meuse or Maes. It is quite a manufacturing place, as well 
 as lively and pleasant, and seems to be regaining its former 
 importance. The shop-windows present a really brilliant 
 display of merchandise, of every description. Two of the 
 modern streets, strange to say, are well paved, and have 
 side- walks four feet wide; an unusual phenomenon on the 
 continent. In the course of my ramble, I dropped into 
 three or four churches, for the churches in these countries 
 are open at all times; and they have abundant attraction, 
 at least in painting, sculpture, architecture, and music; in 
 short, they are museums of the fine arts. The prevalence 
 of superstition among the good people seems strange in 
 this 'enlightened age;' and yet on the whole, we cannot 
 wonder at it, if the proverb be true that 'ignorance is the 
 mother of devotion.' One of the printed notices of holy 
 days, etc., in honor of the virgin and the saints, com- 
 mences on this wise : ' Marie la Mrc de Dieu, est digne 
 de noire homage' etc. 
 
 Namur, 16. — The ride from Licgo to this place (forty 
 
268 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 miles,) along the banks of the Meuse, was delightful.* 
 The scenery, if not piftoresque, in the Frenchman's sense, 
 is at least beautiful. There was a very perceptible differ- 
 ence in the diligences on leaving the Prussian dominions; 
 the Belgian vehicle being large, clumsy, heavy-loaded, and 
 drawn by three miserable, creeping compounds of skin and 
 bones. On leaving Liege, we passed several close-looking, 
 high-walled convents and nunneries in the environs. There 
 was little else to notice during the journey, except the 
 boats on the Meuse, drawn up by horses ; and the cathe- 
 dral and walls of Huy, the half-way town. In approach- 
 ing Namur, the road makes a broad circuit, and enters the 
 gate on the Brussels side, giving the traveller an imposing 
 view of the fortifications on the heights overlooking the 
 town. It was late in the evening, when the diligence set 
 us down near the Hotel de Hollande, in which I am now 
 snugly disposed of, a solitary guest. 
 
 Brussels, Ylth. — I was on the top of the diligence this 
 morning at six, for another ride of thirty-six miles to the 
 capital of Belgium, over the field of Waterloo. The only 
 village on the route worth mentioning is Genappe. At 
 noon we came in sight of a large mound, in the form of a 
 pyramid, surmounted by a figure of an animal. It proved 
 to be the Belgic lion-monument, commemorating the great 
 victory of the allies. We soon came up to, and passed 
 over the centre of, the battle-field, our conducteur mean- 
 
 * Classic ground, again. 'Quentin Durward' escorted the ladies of 
 Croye on the same side of the river; and Namur will remind you of 
 Sterne ?nd 'My Uncle Toby.' 
 
Namur — Field of Waterloo. 269 
 
 while pointing out the various localities which he doubtless 
 has often had occasion to do before : ' Le Maison ou Na- 
 poleon logee.' ' Wellington et Blucher.' A tablet over 
 the door of the cottage explained : ' La belle Alliance. 
 Rencontre cles Generaux Wellington et Blucher dans la 
 bat i lie memorable de Jain 18, 1815.' On the right of the 
 road, 4 L'armie Prusse ;' farther on, ' L'armie Anglais ;' 
 on the left, ' L'armie Franchise.' We had now come 
 where the fight raged thickest, at present marked only by 
 the monuments to the more distinguished victims. The 
 field is smaller than I supposed. Those great armies must 
 have been necessarily in close contact. This is the spot, 
 then, where, at the expense of the lives of twenty thousand 
 men, the mastership not only of France, but of all Europe 
 was decided. 
 
 " And here I stand upon the place of skulls, 
 The grave of France — the deadly Waterloo." 
 
 And here, where, on that dreadful night, the groans of 
 the wounded and dying went up to heaven, calling aloud 
 for retribution on their ambitious fellow. man, who sought, 
 at whatever cost, to 
 
 " Get the start of the majestic world, 
 And boar the palm alone ;" 
 
 here you now see only the peaceful labors of the peasant 
 women, planting their (lax ami pol r the graves of 
 
 the slaughtered^ which scarcely have a 'stone to tell where 
 they lie,' or to remind you of the stirring scenes of the 
 night when the gayety of the ball at Brussels was changed 
 23* 
 
270 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 to anxious terror, by the cry of ' The foe ! they come ! — 
 they come !' 
 
 After leaving the field, we passed through the strag- 
 gling village of Waterloo, (now the abode of cicerones 
 and speculators in old swords, muskets, and sundry other 
 relics of the 'grand bataille,' most of which are doubtless 
 manufactured for the special benefit of credulous tourists, 
 we entered a thick and beautiful grove, two or three miles 
 long, and soon came in sight of the capital, which is nine 
 miles from Waterloo. The general view of Brussels, on 
 this side, is not more imposing than (hat of several minor 
 towns ; and the quarter we entered was still less favorable 
 for a ' first impression.' Instead of the fortified portal, 
 usual in insignificant villages in Germany, the city is 
 guarded at the ' Porte de Namur' by a wooden fence, 
 scarcely fit for a cow-pasture. In the ' Rue Haute,' 
 which we first traversed, the houses are neither high nor 
 handsome ; most of them with gable-ends to the street, in 
 the primitive Dutch style. But when I arrived at the 
 ' Hotel de Bellevue,' (chosen at random from the list,) the 
 face of things was changed. This hotel is in a large and 
 splendid square, next to the king's palace and the public 
 buildings, and directly opposite the park, one of the most 
 beautiful in Europe. The Rues Royale, de Brabant and 
 de Loi, which inclose that charming promenade, are de- 
 cidedly superior to Rivoli, the boast of Paris. The royal 
 palace and that of the ' prince hereditary,' are near each 
 other, in a corner of the square ; and on the opposite side, 
 extending the whole length of the park, is the immense 
 
Brussels ; — Park — Churches. 271 
 
 palace of the States General. These buildings are all of 
 the light cream color, so prevalent in Paris and Frank- 
 fort.* The park is adorned with several fine pieces of 
 sculpture, including a series of the Roman emperors. 
 The views from the various avenues through the trees are 
 magnificent. In rambling through the fairy place, I heard 
 from a building in the corner, 
 
 ■" A sound of revelry by night, 
 
 For Belgium's capital had gathered now 
 Her beauty and her chivalry." 
 
 It certainly has gathered a quantity of English visit- 
 ers, for the hotels are full of them, and they are now list- 
 ening to ' music with its voluptuous swell,' at the opera, 
 where I doubt not 
 
 " Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again, 
 And all goes merry as a marriage bell." 
 
 18th. — Just finished lionizing. Firstly, churches ; St. 
 Jacques ; Corinthian order ; remarkably elegant and 
 tasteful: Notre Dame des Victoires, Notre Dame de Cha- 
 pelle, and St. Michael; cathedrals richly adorned with 
 paintings and sculpture. The towers of St. Michael are 
 massive and conspicuous objects in the panorama of the 
 city ; and the magnificence of the interior is really aston- 
 ishing. High mass was here also in operation in more 
 
 * Why will nut our builders study good tuste, and abolish the 
 abominable custom of painting the exterior ofthur houses a flashy 
 red? How much better is a cream, had, or Btone color— even white 
 ^r yellow is preferable to red. And then the parks and public prome- 
 nades— when will the layers out anil rulers of OUI cities learn the im- 
 portance ol" these things, in promoting beauty and health? 
 
272 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 than usual splendor, but I need not detail the ceremonies, 
 with which I am free to say I was more amused than edi- 
 fied. In these cathedrals, as you are aware, there are no 
 such things as pews or permanent seats. The multitude are 
 content to kneel on the cold stone floor, or if perchance a 
 few chairs are provided, the occupants are often interrupt- 
 ed in their i Ave Marias' by a summons for the rent there- 
 of. Much did some of them seem to marvel that my 
 heretical self touched not the holy water. ' While T stood 
 wrapped in the wonder of it,' comes up a battalion of about 
 one hundred young ladies, all dressed alike, in black silk 
 frocks and straw bonnets, respectable and intelligent-look- 
 ing girls, probably belonging to some large Catholic semi- 
 nary. They were escorted by two ladies into the choir. 
 
 Close by Notre Dame, I passed a grog-shop with this 
 sign, verbatim : 
 
 'A LA GRACE DE DIEU: | 
 
 VALENTINE, MABCHAND D'EPICEBIES ET LIQUEURS.' 
 
 In all these churches there are little chapels around the 
 walls, dedicated to the different saints, with contribution- 
 boxes at the entrance, labelled in French and Dutch, ' let 
 on offre a St. Roch, patron contre maladies contagieuse ;' 
 ' Ici on offre & St. Antonie patron contre ;' something else, 
 I forget what. ' Ici on offre a Notre Dame des doleurs aux 
 pieds de la croix ;' and so on. 
 
 The next curiosity is the Hotel de Ville, a large and 
 curious old building, with a tower after the model of that 
 
Brussels : Palaces — Rail-roads. 273 
 
 of Babel. It was in this edifice that the Emperor Charles 
 V. signed his abdication. 
 
 The beautiful palace built for the Prince of Orange, 
 was just completed and furnished, when the revolution of 
 1830 broke out. Leopold, it seems, is too honorable and 
 conscientious to use it, so that it is kept as a show-place. 
 The interior is superb. It is a small edifice, comparative- 
 ly, but a perfect gem of its kind. Visiters are required to 
 put on cloth slippers, and slide, not walk, over the floors of 
 polished oak. In some of the rooms, the walls are of varie- 
 gated marble ; others are covered with the richest satin 
 damask. There is a fine collection of choice paintings by- 
 Rubens, etc., in this palace. They showed me also, in the 
 stable, the state-carriage of the Prince of Orange, which he 
 had not time to save when he lost Belgium. 
 
 In the king's palace the furniture is rather plain, and 
 somewhat the worse for wear. As their majesties are at 
 present * absent from home,' I was permitted to invade the 
 sanctity even of the private apartments. Some of the halls 
 are very large, particularly the ' Salic a Manger.' 
 
 Antwerp, l&th. — At two o'clock, or an hour and a half 
 ago, I was in Brussels, twenty-four miles distant. The 
 flight was not in a balloon, or in a ' bateau a vapour,' but in 
 the car of the ' Le Chemin de Fer ;' for be it known, the 
 Yankee notions are spreading so far, that there are two 
 rail-roads, of twenty-four and sixty miles, actually in ope- 
 ration on the continent of Europe ; and moreover, there are 
 three or four more contemplated or commenced, viz. : from 
 Frankfort, first to Ostcnd, the port of Belgium ; second, to 
 
274 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Hamburgh ; third, to Berlin ; fourth, to Basle, in Switzer- 
 land ; and from Vienna to Trieste and Milan. Verily, the 
 tour of Europe will be no such great affair, ' when such 
 things be.' It will lose all its romance ; and the book- 
 making tourist's ' occupation' will be ' gone' for ever ! It's 
 lucky / came before a ' consummation so devoutly to be 
 wished.' 
 
 The low countries are, of course, well adapted for rail- 
 roads and canals. There is scarcely e^ elevation of six 
 feet on the whole course from Brussels to Anvers * This 
 rail-road is under excellent regulations. The train con- 
 sisted of fifteen cars, part of which were open; and the 
 fare was only about twenty-five cents. You may break- 
 fast in Brussels, go to Antwerp to church, and return to 
 Brussels before dinner, with the greatest ease. I had seen 
 the opening ceremonies of the Catholic holy-day, at the 
 church of St. Michael, in the capital, and now I have been 
 to see them finished in the cathedral of Antwerp. I went 
 into this grand temple just at sunset, when they were per- 
 forming Te Deum on the immense organ, accompanied 
 by a large vocal choir; and nearly thirty persons in gor- 
 geous robes were officiating around the altar. This is one 
 of the largest churches in the world. The spire is far- 
 
 * The French and German names of several places are puzzling — 
 as for instance; Aix la Chapclle, Aachen ; L ege, Lutchcn; Mayence, 
 Mentz ; Ghent, Gand ; Munich, Munchen ; Antwerp, Anvers. The 
 coins, too, of the various states, are a great annoyance. IVone but 
 French and English gold, and five-franc pieces, are universally cur- 
 rent. The Swiss batzen will not pass in Germany, nor the Prussian 
 kreutzers groschen, florins or tha/ers, in Belgium. Each state, dutchy, 
 and canton, has a different currency. 
 
Antwerp : Cathedral — Citade/le, etc. 275 
 
 famed for its immense height ami graceful design. Among 
 the gems of art to be seen in the interior, is the celebrated 
 chef d'ceuvre of Rubens, the Descent fom the Cross. 
 
 I walked out this evening to the citadelh which sus- 
 tained, under General Chassr, the terrible siege of the 
 French, in 1832. It is a mile in circumference, and is 
 inclosed by five bastions. The walls and the houses in the 
 vicinity yet bear sad traces of the bombardment. During 
 the siege, which lasted a month, including ten days of in- 
 cessant cannonading, sixty-three thousand cannon balls 
 were fired by the French into the citadel, and often no less 
 than a dozen bombs were seen in the air at once. The 
 interior of the fortress, and several warehouses near by, 
 were reduced to a heap of ruins, before the resolute Dutch 
 general surrendered. Such an affair is more in keeping 
 with the days of Louis XIV., than with our own. 
 
 The diplomatists have not yet settled matters amicably 
 between Holland and Belgium. Kin^ William and sev- 
 eral of the despotic powers refuse to recognise Bel- 
 gium's independence, and there is little or no intercourse 
 between the two countries. Travellers are not permitted 
 to enter Holland from this side, without special permission 
 from his Dutch Majesty, for a Belgian passport is good for 
 nothing. Leopold, le premier^ may thank his stars if he 
 continues secure on the throne he acquired so easily ; for 
 there is apparently much discontent among the people, 
 especially the trading classes, who fee] the loss of the mar- 
 ket for their goods at the Dutch sea-ports. The Ant werp- 
 ers, at least, are decidedly inclined towards Holland. 
 
276 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 Antwerp, which in the sixteenth century was one of the 
 most important commercial places in the world, has long 
 been on the decline. It once contained more than two 
 hundred thousand inhabitants — now, scarcely sixty thou- 
 sand ; and it is said there are no less than eight hundred 
 houses at present tenantless. Its docks, once crowded 
 with vessels, laden with the wealth of the Indies, are now 
 almost deserted ; and the streets are strangely quiet, for a 
 place even of its present size. 
 
 The chief curiosities are the churches, for which Ant- 
 werp is renowned. But I have already inflicted enough 
 of this topic upon you, and the Antwerp churches are 
 much like those I have written about, save that they are 
 yet more rich and profuse in their decorations. Those of 
 St. Jacques, St. Paul, and the Jesuits, are the principal. 
 Superb altars, and pillars of the finest marble, statues and 
 paintings, in every variety, are to be seen in them. In St. 
 Jacques, I stood on the tomb of Rubens, who was a native 
 of Antwerp, and of a patrician family. Over his monu- 
 ment is a fine picture, by himself, of his wife and children. 
 In the churchyard of St. Paul's is a fearfully vivid repre- 
 sentation of Mount Calvary, the crucifixion, and entomb- 
 ment of Christ, and of purgatory ! While gazing at the 
 lofty tower of the cathedral, 1 was accosted by a cicerone : 
 ' Voulez vous monter V Combien demandez vous ? ' Deux 
 francs.' ' C'est trop. 5 ' Oui, monsieur ; mais tres belle 
 vue ; magnifique ; vous pouvez voir Bruxelles.' ' Eh bien, 
 je veux monter.' This is the way they get one's francs 
 away ; for, as the book says, the Belgian lions must be fed 
 
Church Tower — Chimes — Rubens. 277 
 
 as well as others. The view is certainly very extensive, 
 though Brussels, I must say, was rather indistinct. But 
 the Tower of Malines, or Mechlin, (that famous place for 
 lace,) was very conspicuous, though twelve miles off. 
 The prospects over such a country as Belgium are more 
 extensive than varied. Antwerp is situated near the 
 mouth of the Scheld, and the windings of the river may be 
 seen for several miles toward Ghent and the sea-board. 
 The tops of the houses in the city are mostly covered with 
 red tiles. 
 
 In the tower, I saw a chime of no less than forty-six 
 bells, and was shown the operation of winding the clock, 
 with a weight of one thousand pounds attached. The 
 large bell, meanwhile, struck eleven, and all the rest fol- 
 lowed like dutiful children. Somewhat of a sound they 
 made, sure enough ! Chimes originated in this country, 
 and all the churches have them playing in concert every 
 half hour. This tower is ascended by six hundred and 
 twenty-six steps. I went to the very top, thinking of some 
 one's exclamation at the cathedral of Cologne, ' What will 
 not man achieve !' 
 
 From thence, made a call at Ruben's house, which 
 still remains, and then looked in at the Museum, where are 
 three hundred 'tableaux,' comprising eighteen pictures by 
 Rubens, and six by Van Dyck. In the garden adjoining, 
 is a bronze statue of Mary of Burgundy, on her tomb. 
 
 Ghent, {or Gand,) Sept. 19. — III- majesty of Holland 
 not seeing fit to admit me into his dominions, from his late 
 rebellious territory of Belgium, the alternative was to cross 
 24 
 
278 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 over Flanders, by Ghent and Bruges, to Ostend, and there 
 embark, instead of at Rotterdam, for London. A ferry- 
 boat took passengers over the Scheld to the ' Tete de 
 Flandre,' where the diligence was in waiting. We ' nig- 
 gled' over a flat, fertile country, at the five-mile pace, see- 
 ing nothing very strange until nine P. M., when we passed 
 through a long village of one-story houses, rattled over an 
 excellent stone-bridge, and found ourselves in the worthy 
 old town of Ghent, or rather Gand ; but if the people are 
 Ganders, they have shown some wisdom, nevertheless, in 
 making so many nice, large, open squares, in their re- 
 spectable city. 
 
 Ostend, 20th. — This morning was to be my last on the 
 continent. I rose at six from my last coucher, in the fifth 
 story, took my last breakfast in the salle a manger, made 
 my last visit to cathedrals, paid my bill at the Hotel de 
 Vienne, and took my diligence seat for the last time. 
 The last trunk was placed on the top, the last passenger 
 took his place, the three lazy horses were affixed, the pos- 
 tillion mounted, the diligence rumbled forward, crossed two 
 or three spacious squares, and as many bridges, (for the 
 river or canals pass in several places through the town,) 
 entered the great archway under the ramparts, and pro- 
 ceeded with slow and stately step toward Bruges. The 
 whole of the road is broad, well paved, lined with rows of 
 elms and poplars, and for several miles keeps along the 
 banks of the broad canal, connecting Ghent with Bruges ; 
 and so level is the soil, that the towers of Ghent were in 
 full view for six miles. 
 
Ghent — Bruges— Ostend. 279 
 
 Bruges, or Brugge, is a beautiful town, replete with 
 reminiscences of the Counts of Flanders ; yet it is far 
 from being what it once was, in wealth and importance. 
 Like Antwerp, there is an unnatural stillness in the streets; 
 you would almost think an epidemic had depopulated 
 them. And yet there are many handsome private dwel- 
 lings, and many wealthy people in Bruges. It has also a 
 considerable number of English residents. 
 
 Ostend is dull enough. The harbor is bad, not admit- 
 ting large vessels, except at high tide ; otherwise this 
 place would improve rapidly ; for, save Antwerp and Dun- 
 kirk, it is the only sea-port of Belgium. When the rail- 
 road to Brussels is finished, Ostend will begin to look up. 
 The Belgians have always been a manufacturing rather 
 than a commercial people ; but now they are out off from 
 exporting their goods from the ports of Holland, they 
 must necessarily build up a commerce of their own. 
 They are now engaged in improving the harbor, etc., of 
 Ostend. 
 
 As an evidence of the discontent caused by the depres- 
 sion of trade since the revolution, it is said Leopold was 
 grossly insulted by the people of Ghent, about a year 
 since. He was on a visit there, and was going to the the- 
 atre ; but the Ganders hired all the best boxes, and locked 
 them up ! The Ostenders, however, are more loyal. The 
 king and queen were greeted at the theatre here, a few 
 eve. lings since, with a poetical address. The queen is hero 
 now ; but her consort has gone to England to negotiate, as 
 the papers say, for the Princess Victoria, in behalf of his 
 
280 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 a_ 
 
 nephew. "V^frether he or his beloved cousin of Orange will 
 succeed, yet remains a problem. 
 
 Well — Bologne was the Alpha, and now, after travel- 
 ling two thousand miles, Ostend is the Omega of my conti- 
 nental tour. To imitate the lofty style of Chateaubriand's 
 preface to his memoirs : I have been solitary in crowded 
 cities, and in the recesses of the Highlands of Scotland, and 
 the Alps of Switzerland ; I have promenaded the Regent- 
 street of London, and the Boulevards of Paris ; the parks 
 of Brussels, the Canongate of Edinburgh, the ramparts of 
 Stirling and Geneva ; sailed on Loch Katrine and Lake 
 Leman, on Loch Lomond and ' fair Zurich's waters ;' slept 
 on the Great St. Bernard, and by the side of Loch Ach- 
 ray. I have gazed on magnificent panoramas of cities, 
 mountains, lakes, valleys, from the summits of the Tro- 
 sachs and the Rhigi, from St- Paul's and Notre Dame, 
 from the towers of Antwerp, and Edinburgh, of Stirling and 
 Windsor. I have sailed on the Tay and the Rhine, the 
 Clyde, the Thames, the Rhone, the Seine ; scaled rocky 
 heights on the Swiss mule and the Highland pony ; 
 climbed to the sources of glaciers, water-falls, and the 
 Frozen Sea. I have been in the princely halls of Wind- 
 sor and Versailles, of Warwick, Scone, and Holyrood ; the 
 Louvre, Tuilleries, and Luxembourg ; rambled amidst the 
 ruins of Melrose and Kenilworth ; of Dryburgh and the 
 Drachenfels. I have heard the ' loud anthem' in the splen- 
 did temples of York and Antwerp, Westminster and Notre 
 Dame, St. Paul's and Cologne. I have stood over the 
 ashes of Shakspeare and of Scott ; the poets and heroes of 
 
Retrospective. 281 
 
 England and France. 1 have looked with silent pleasure 
 on the works of Raphael and Angelo, of Reynolds and 
 Rubens, of Flaxman and Canova. My hand has been in 
 Rob Roy's purse, and on the skull of Charlemagne ; on 
 Bonaparte's pistols, and Hofer's blunderbuss ; on the 
 needle-work of the Queen of Scots, and the school compo- 
 sitions of the great Elizabeth; on the crown of the Span- 
 ish Isabella, and the spear of Guy, Earl of Warwick ! I 
 have traversed the battle-fields of Bannockburn and of 
 Morat, of Leipsic and of Waterloo. I have seen men and 
 women of all grades, from the monarch to the chimney- 
 sweep ; kings, queens, princes, heirs apparent, nobles and 
 dutchesses ; I have seen Daniel O'Connell ! I have been 
 preached to by the plain presbyters of Scotland, and the 
 portly bishops of England ; and heard mass in the convent 
 in sight of Italy, and in the gorgeous cathedrals of Bel- 
 gium. I have seen wretchedness and magnificence in the 
 widest extremes. I have been dazzled by the splendors of 
 royalty, and have shuddered at the misery of royalty's 
 subjects. In short, (for I am giving you a pretty speci- 
 men of egotism,) I have seen much, very much, to admire ; 
 much that we of the ' New World' might imitate with 
 advantage, and more still to make me better satisfied than 
 ever that we are, on the whole, or ought to be, the happi- 
 est people in the world. Let us but pay a little more 
 attention to our manners, (for they certainly may be much 
 improved,) and let us cheek the spirit of lawless and fanat- 
 ical agrarianism, which has shown itself to be already 
 dangerous to our liberties and prosperity, and we may 
 24* 
 
282 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 with conscious pride take our station first among the na- 
 tions of the earth. Yes, my dear , be assured that, 
 
 "Midst pleasures and palaces though'you may roam, 
 Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home !" 
 
 XXII. 
 
 VALEDICTORY. 
 
 Touching the dismal voyage across the North Sea, 
 my third trip up the Thames, and fourth arrival at London ; 
 and how much like getting home again, it seemed, after 
 being so long among people of strange tongues, to tread 
 once more the ever crowded, and now to me familiar thor- 
 ough-fares of Cheapside, Fleet-street, and the Strand ; and 
 of divers and extensive peregrinations to the remote cor- 
 ners of this mighty and overgrown city ;* its lanes and 
 alleys, spacious squares and narrow ' turnstiles ;' its noble 
 bridges, (among the most remarkable of its architectural 
 ornaments;) and many other matters heretofore alluded 
 to ; and of the final leave-taking ; ride to Portsmouth, and 
 a stormy week's delay at the George Hotel of that uncom- 
 monly stupid place ; and how very magnanimously, on 
 learning that I was ' a foreigner,' they consented to admit 
 
 * As a specimen of the walks which we ' business men' are obliged 
 to take, remember that from Murray's, in Albemarle-street, to St. 
 Catharine's Dock, (where the American packets come in,) is rather 
 more than four miles. 
 
Valedictory. 233 
 
 me to the dock-yard, provided I would ' write to the lords 
 of the Admiralty at London for permission !' how we at 
 length espied ■ the star-spangled banner' waving in the 
 harbor, from the spars of the fine ship St. James, and we 
 gathered ourselves and our goods and chattels together, 
 and the dock of Garratt & Gibbon was the last point of 
 land on which the soles of our feet rested in Europe; and 
 how we gave the wink to one of the amphibious genus who 
 had daily attacked us during this sojourn of expectation, with 
 ' for New-York, sir?— boat, sir?' and at last pushed off, 
 while our beloved captain was yet taking a nap at ' the 
 Quebec,' which said nap lost us a whole day of fair wind ; 
 and how the order was finally given to ' heave away,' and 
 the anchor was weighed, the canvass spread, and we 
 slowly left ' the Needles,' passed the place where a vessel 
 had been wrecked a few days before ; the Isle of Wight 
 and the setting sun disappearing simultaneously from our 
 view — and we were fairly embarked on our way home. 
 And what happened unto us during the voyage ; the gales 
 and the calms ; the beautiful operation of speaking a vessel 
 at sea ; the ' moving accidents' which befel some of us who 
 were not wary enough to preserve an equilibrium suited to 
 the sudden and coquettisli propensities of our vessel, to in- 
 cline too much on one side during a storm ; the fashionable 
 ' Gazette' published in the St. James saloon, wherein the 
 follies and foibles of our miniature world were faceiiously 
 set forth ; how, after a voyage of forty-one days, both plea- 
 sant and tedious, the Highlands of Neversink first ap- 
 peared between sky and water, and the pilot guiding us 
 
284 Memoranda in Europe in 1836. 
 
 skillfully through the Narrows, we came gaily up the har- 
 bor, and stepped on our native soil once more, at the foot 
 of Maiden. lane ; — all this and more also, shall be buried 
 in oblivion, lest you should never be the wiser. And so, 
 gentle reader, farewell — and may your journeyings be as 
 prosperous, yea, and much more delectable than mine, and 
 may your discourse thereof be as rich with entertainment, 
 as the present one is dull and unprofitable. 
 
 Note— The Convent on the Great St. Bernard is 8074 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and not 11,000, as erroneously stated on p. 218. It 
 was founded in the year ^6\ and is undoubtedly the most elevated 
 habitation on either continent. M. de Saussure observed the ther- 
 mometer* there below zero on the first of August, at 1 P. M , and with a 
 bright sun.* * * * Every year seven or eight thousand persons tra- 
 verse the Grand St. Bernard ; and sometimes six hundred have passed 
 in a day. In the year 1782, the same evening, there were five hundred 
 sixty-one travellers, who consumed four oxen, twenty sheep, and three 
 large sacks of flour. From 1798 to 1806, one hundred and fifty thou- 
 sand persons have lodged in this convent, besides which, for a whole 
 year it had a garrison of six hundred men.t 
 
 * It was far less cold when I visited the convent in Aug. 1836. 
 t Coxe'i Switierland. 
 
A FEW COMPARATIVE STATISTICS 
 
 of the United States and Great Britain : 
 
 which may be useful for reference abroad, 
 
 [N. B. — For convenient comparison, the money is estimated, on 
 both sides, in dollars. The data are derived from Custom-House and 
 other official returns. There are a few blanks on the British side, 
 which we have not been able to fill.] 
 
 Square miles of territory- 
 Population, (1830) 
 Navy, (whole No. of Vessels) 
 Army- 
 Value of Imports, (1836) 
 
 Exports, Domestic Proc 
 Foreign 
 Tonnage of Merchant Vessels 
 Government Revenue, (1835) 
 
 11 Expenses '• viz., 
 
 Civil List, Foreign Intercourse, &c. 3,7-21,000 
 Military Service, Fortifications, &c. 9, 120,000 
 Naval Service 3,8G4,000 
 
 U States. 
 
 Ot. Britain. 
 
 1,570,000 
 
 118,209* 
 
 12,866,920 
 
 21,300,000 
 
 52 
 
 606 
 
 8,221 
 
 89,723 
 
 $189,980,085t 
 
 
 5 106,916,680 
 
 $260,000,000 
 
 21,746,360 
 
 
 1,350,000 
 
 
 *35, 130,000? 
 
 $311 : 530 ; 000 
 
 Total 817,005,000 $90,000,000 
 
 Of which the Royal Family has $3,100,000 
 
 Salary Pres't U. States 5 '><><) 
 
 " Salaries of Mem. Cabinet $34,000 470,000 
 
 Average Tax. whole pop'n, per head $2 1 2 - 30 
 
 * This includes England, Scotland, and Freland only. The popu- 
 lation of the whole British Empire, including the Easl India j 
 sions, colonies, &c , is I square miles. 
 
 t Of tins amount, t 71,000,000 was in American vessels, die re- 
 mainder in foreign vessels. >;i,n00,L00 of I wer< in the 
 'ton. 
 
 t Of this amount, about 17 millions win- from the customs, and 
 14 millions from Bab ^ oi public lands. The Surplu* litvcnut distrib- 
 uted according to tiic act oi 1-Jb, was SJ7, L68,C& 
 
286 Comparative Statistics, 
 
 U. Stales. Gt. Britain. 
 
 Length of Post Routes, in miles 27,578,620 
 
 Miles of Rail Road in operation, or 
 
 actual progress 1,671 
 
 Cost of do. $30,000,000 
 
 Miles of Canal, completed 2,757 1980 
 
 Cost of do. $64,573,099 
 
 Number of Colleges 95* 40 
 
 " Pupils in Common Schools 
 
 in proportion to the population 1 to 7 1 to 15 
 
 Number of Newspapers, (about) 1,350 375 
 
 " New Works, first pub'd in 1 year 450 1,100 
 
 Whole No. of Volumes printed, " 1,500,000 
 
 Thus it appears that while our home territory is 13 
 times greater than that of the British Isles, and our popu- 
 lation now equal to three-fifths of theirs, the whole ex- 
 penses of our government are scarcely one-eighteenth as 
 large, and our average taxation per head is but one-eighth 
 of that in Great Britain. 
 
 The amount of our exports is one-half as great as 
 those of Britain. Probably more than one-third of the 
 exports of Great Britain are to this country. 
 
 The tonnage of our merchant vessels is half the 
 amount of theirs ; and the amount of rail-roads and canals 
 is vastly greater in the United States. 
 
 The proportion of our newspapers to theirs is four to 
 one. It is probable that, although we publish but about 
 one-third as many new works per annum, as are issued in 
 Great Britain, the whole number of volumes printed is 
 even larger in the United States than there. 
 
 It follows, therefore, that in internal resources and im- 
 
 * Exclusive of Law, Medical, and Theological Seminaries. In 
 Great Britain there are forty colleges, including lj at Oxford and 13 at 
 Cambridge. 
 
The Book Trade. 287 
 
 provements, in popular education and general means of 
 intelligence, we are already surpassing our father-land. 
 
 Query. At the ratio of increase in some of the above 
 items for a few years past, how will the balance stand 
 thirty years hence ? 
 
 THE BOOK TRADE.* 
 
 The number of works published for the first time in the United 
 States in the year 1934 and 1335, was 1013, comprising about 1300 dif- 
 ferent vols. Allowing 1 00 copies to an edition, the wholesale cost of 
 these would be 81 220,000. This is exclusive of new editions of recent 
 and old works, of Bibles, of prayer-books, periodicals, etc , which 
 amount to at least as much more. 
 
 In 1836 this number was materially increased ; and the amount of 
 capital invested in the books issued from the press during that year, 
 is ascertained from the most authentic data to be at least a million 
 and a half, i. e., this sum is invested in books printed in one year, 
 lS-?0ths of which are issued in Boston, New-York, Philadelphia, and 
 Hartford. 
 
 In most instances the editions of the same work in the United 
 States are larger, and oftener repeated than in any other country. 
 Many reprinted English works have passed through three or four edi- 
 tions here, while the original publisher was disposing of one. One 
 book in particular can be named, of which the 4th edition (1000 copies 
 each) was published in England in December — the sale in America 
 having at that time exceeded 100,000 copies. 
 
 It is believed that the amount of American publishing has more 
 than doubled within the period of the last ten years. The aggregate 
 sales of Jive bookselling houses in the year 1836, amounted to one 
 million three hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The subjects of 
 books published in the year 1934, were in the following proportion : 
 
 Original American. Reprint!. 
 
 Education 73 9 
 
 Theology 37 18 
 
 Novels andTa'es 10 95 
 
 History and Biography 19 17 
 
 Law 20 3 
 
 Medicine 10 3 
 
 Poetry 8 ..-3 
 
 Voyoges and Travels 8 10 
 
 Eine Arts R 
 
 Miscellaneous 59 43 
 
 Total 253 201 
 
 ♦ Kxtrmclcd from Col Btona'l Spreeh at tin nooluellrrs' Pinner in Krw-Tork, March, 1837. 
 On UiC line occaiiou Dr. t'rancii naiad that ihe important an of itereotype printing wai origin- 
 
288 Book Trade in the United States. 
 
 From this statement, it appears that in our own books, the specu- 
 lative and the useful greatly preponderate ; and that works of the ima- 
 gination ate ehiefly supplied from abroad. Our school books are al- 
 most entirely written or compiled at home ; and the extent of their 
 manufacture may be judged from the fact, that of some of the more pop- 
 ular compilations of geography, from one to three hundred thousand 
 copies have been sold in ten years ; and works of this kind, in some 
 cases, produce an ample and even liberal permanent income both to 
 the author and publisher. 
 
 Such, sir, are the results of the great invention of Guttemburg and 
 Faust. How striking is the contrast between these days, when all the 
 treasures of knowledge are flowing past us in such ample streams, and 
 we are able to drink to the full, and the ages past to which I have ad- 
 verted. Then, when so much pains was essential to accuracy, and so 
 much labor required to produce such perfect and beautiful specimens of 
 penmanship as have come down to us, the production of a single vol- 
 ume was the labor often of a year, and sometimes more. Now, a single 
 house of this city, (that of the Messrs. Harpers,) publishes half a mill- 
 ion of volumes per annum ; and I have been informed by Mr. Carey of 
 Philadelphia, that his house issues a greater number still. A million 
 of volumes per annum— by two houses, to say nothing of many other 
 extensive publishing houses, in New-York, Boston, Philadelphia, and 
 Baltimore ! 
 
 A great deal has been said, Mr. President, about the duty of encour- 
 aging native literature. To do this is certainly the duty of our publish- 
 ers, and our buyers of books also ; but if the truth were generally 
 known, perhaps the publishers would have more credit given to them 
 than they have received. Considering that it is but a few years since 
 we began to think of having native authors and American publishers, 
 they have done tolerably well. A single publishing house has paid in 
 the five years previous to 1834, the trifling sum of one hundred thirty- 
 five thousand dollars for copy-rights, thirty thousand dollars of which 
 were for two books. The house of Carey, Lea & Blanchard paid thir- 
 ty thousand dollars last year, to American authors, and our own firm 
 of Harper & Brothers has ' transferred the deposites' to about the 
 same amount annually for several years. 
 
 That American Hterature is not exactly starving for lack of nutri- 
 ment, is tolerably well established by another fact — the rapid increase 
 of the proportion between first publications and reprints— that propor- 
 tion having more than doubled within five years ; and the ratio is con- 
 stantly changing in favor of books by American authors. 
 
 mted in NewYork, by (he late Gov. Colden. and was communicated by Dr. Franklin, then in Pa- 
 lis, to the celebrated Didot, who has since had the credit of the discovery. 
 
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