lili;^ Columbia ®nit)cr^itp mtl)f(£ilpof3lrtt»gs)rk THE LIBRARIES Dr, H. Karl '<*, K'mm Z^^- n//r yj/'a/v/e 'rf-HC ^Uu\ fm\m^ k\nB i©Aiu[p[K]QM'Y:, wii.. .cfe WALDENSES PROTESTANT VALLEYS OF PIEDMONT, DAUPHINY, THE BAN DE LA ROCHE. WILLIAM BEATTIE, M.D. IIIE UMV. OF EDIN. ; .MEJIB. OF THE ROVAL COLL. OF I'HVS. LONDON i OK THE HISTOB. INSTITl'TE ( PHYS. TO H. R. H. THE LATE DUKE OF CLARENCE ; AUTHOR OF "SWITZERLAND," "SCOTLAND," "a RESIDENCE IN GERMANY," ETC- ILLUSTRATED BY W. H. BARTLETT, ESQ. AND W. BROCKEDON, F.R.S. LONDON: GEORGE VIRTUE, 26, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW. .M OCCCXXXVIU. ^31 ^V R. CLAY, PaiNTER. BRKAD-STREET-I from tnc uinrary of HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY FREDERICK-WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA ETC. ETC. ETC. THE AUGUST P.\TRON AND MUNIFICENT BENEFACTOU or THE ANCIENT WALDENSES OF PIEDMONT AND OF THE MORE RECENTLY DECLARED PROTESTANTS OF THE TYROL fl^is JBffitorfe CONTAINING HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES PROTESTANT VALLEYS OF PIEDMONT, DAUPHINY, AND THE BAN DE LA ROCHE ^Mmtraten IS '.VlTIl HIS MAJESTY'S GRACIOUS PERMISSION AND WITH SENTIMENTS OF THE MOST PROFOUND RESPECT BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. The Work here presented to the reader, is the fifth of an illustrated series of volumes, which, under the auspices of public favour, the Author has now happily brought to a close. The illus- trations consist of seventy-two liighly finished steel-plate engravings, from original drawings taken on the spot, as stated in the Introduction. Tlie scenery of the Valleys of Piedmont and Dauphiny, is from the pencil of Mr. Bartlett. The route of Henri Arnaud across the Alps, was successfully explored by Mr. Brockedon in person, for the express object of illustrating that portion of the work which treats of the Expedition ; and it is only necessary to add, that the pencils of Stanfield and Harding have also contributed to the undertaking. Thus supported, the Work has gone on prosperously, from its first commencement, eighteen months ago, and will very shortly be translated into the French and German languages.* All, indeed, have admired its pictorial embel- lishments ; many competent judges have commended its impartiality ; and if any of our readers beyond the Alps have fancied that, on careful investigation, they detected a party-spirit pervading these sketches of the Protestant Waldenses, the imputation is so very unmerited, that it may be readily overlooked and forgiven. The Author of the present Work is no controversialist in matters of theology ; and, had he been liardy enough to appear in so critical a position, he would undoubtedly have chosen some better vehicle for its display, than the pages of a work so exclusively devoted to the Picturesque. Wide and varied intercourse with society abroad ; the personal friendship of enlightened Catholics at home ; and a becoming deference and respect for all wliose religious sentiments may differ from his own, have taught him to be uniformly guarded in his language, averse to the fostering of nan-ow-minded prejudices, and cautious of drawing hasty or harsh conclusions. If, therefore, he has offended any sensitive individual by quoting from long accredited historians — Catholic as well as Protestant — he can only regret that the truth should be of such a nature as to give offence to any one. For, if his views or statements be in strict accordance with the great standard authorities on this subject — as they certainly are — they must be true ; because the trutli of these authorities — though often impugned — has never been invalidated. With respect to the actual condition of the Waldenses, the Author's testimony is fully corroborated by all who, like himself, have visited tliem in their native Valleys. He has freely sympathized with them in their misfortunes, and expressed a liearty desire to see them invested with the rights and privileges of their fellow-subjects : he has deprecated, in their behalf, all religious persecution, all political intolerance; he has dwelt with admiration on their private virtues, their fervent piety, their exemplary lives, their patriotism, their loyalty, their patient endurance of many privations. But, if he lias only done this, he has only done what every enlightened Catholic of the present day will thank him for having done ; for there are, he is willing to believe, thousands professing that creed, who would rejoice to see the long persecuted Waldenses finally emancipated from the ban of religious distinction, and freely admitted, with themselves, to a full participation in all the rights and privi- leges of the State. The extinction of ancient prejudices, the abolition of oppressive edicts, and the * The French translation, by M. Du Biiuclas, will be completed in a few days. PREFACE. unbiassed recognition of those rights which all Roman Catholic subjects enjoy under Protestant Govern- ments, is all to which the Waldenses so ardently aspire ; and an edict to this effect would be hailed as a voice from heaven. Of better times there have been recent omens ; ' and the people, still looking to their King with unshaken loyalty and confidence, continue tlieir earnest prayer ; — .... Precibus si flecteris uUis Aspice nos hoc tantum ; et, si pietate meremur, Da deinde aiudlium, Pater, atque hajc omina firma ! ^ His Sardinian Majesty, Charles Albert — as we have repeatedly shown in the work before us — is very favourably disposed to his Waldensian subjects ; and there can be little doubt that, if their emancipation coidd be accomplished by a mere Jiat of the Crown, the line of invidious demar- cation, which has so long and painfully divided his subjects of the Valleys from those of the Plain, would be speedily thrown down. His encouiagoment of literature and science — his patronage of the fine arts— his promotion of every measure tending to advance the national glory— his personal notice of meritorious individuals, and many particular instances of favour evinced towards the Waldenses themselves, — all combine to show that he is at heart a wise and enlightened Sovereign, who is desirous that all his faithful subjects should enjoy equal privileges. His ministers, too, are well known to be men of liberal minds — tempering justice with mercy — and warmly partici- pating in the generous views of their royal Master. But, unhappily, all this flow of kindly intentions has been hitherto counteracted — or greatly modified in its effects — by a strong under- cun'ent of bigoted church policy, studious misrepresentation, and popular prejudice. For this however, the inferior clergy must not be exclusively blamed : they me but the subordinate instru- ments of a System, and no more answerable for what they do, than the soldier, who, in strict obedience to his general's order, is called to perform some painful and revolting service. It is the Hierarchy which has so often defeated the kindly intentions of former Sovereigns — which has had its emissaries in the council, the closet, the confessional — and that has so often placed a sword in the royal hand, which, if left to itself, would have extended towards the unfortunate Waldenses a " sceptre of mercy." There is, in fact, only one hope left for the Waldenses, but that hope is fixed on a strong basis — it rests on the inflexible justice of their enlightened Sovereign. To him, under Pro\adence, they look for the removal of all their hereditary burdens ; for the final abolition of all political distinctions ; and from him they implore an act of emancipation. In this they are joined by the prayers of all good men, among whom there is but one wish — namely, that the future line of conduct towards the Waldenses may illustrate the force and spirit of this ancient maxim — Tros Tyrhisqite mihi millo discrimine agetur ! ^ WILLIAM BEATTIE. 2, Tenterden Street, H.^nover Square, December, 1837. ' A very recent and most pleasing trait of royal beneficence was evinced by the king in behalf of a Wal- densian officer, who died in garrison at Aoste. In this case, his majesty, with a magnanimous disregard of ancient precedent, not only granted to the deceased soldier the privilege of a grave among his Protestant kindred, but settled a pension upon his disconsolate widow. We have this anecdote from the best authority. 2.3 ViRG. Mneid,l.iLU. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Paget THE WALDENSES.-Introcluctory Sketcli...Profes8ors of Primitivi- Cliristiaiiity...Persecutions... Present State ............ 1— fi SITUATION. i;\ri;N r. \\:m;mi \ii\i;ii< \ ,!:o - \- :-/,., ,- m,,: ...,.,; ii„.se secluili''! I ' ^ ■ : ' I I ■ .' 1 - ,. I liDii... Elegano ,• ■ - . r I; ^ - I', • , ^, ■■, ■ ' ' ' •- ' - :- ' I'^nce VALLEYS OF LUZERN AND FELICE.— Approach...Vniage of St. John...ValIey of Luzem... La Tour...The beautiful Octavia ..New Collece...Publie Hospita!...Church...Protestant Service... Traits uf \'aiuloi>fliaiactcr,..lhr..ii- .\iti(.ii... Mount Van'kliii... Convent of Villar... Tradition... Diabolici! S:;,;i j^, ',1 i',,i u. .i I'h-I.i , 1,'nc I. i-i r,,ii i;:,>l Sc r nety... Histotical Recollcctions... LaSanc' I. I i .,: ",: i-|iiracy defeated, &c. . . 7 VALLEYS iH 1,1 I \ ■ ^ 1 i \ 1 M , . \ ( iitv, interesting Anecdote.. .Extra- orilinaM i I I 1 I Miliiitsiif .Tanavel.and Pianessa... I'l-'.' I, > " ' \ 'i : < liiiii h.,.I'ra-deI-tor... Synod of l''i ' I •; 1' ,, ^ i! , -:<- I ,: ■, ! • !■ I ', I rations of Comte de la 'r I ' i' 1' 1 < .'i V i' . (Jommuneof Pramol . 44 VALLK\ I'l -I \i^■■ii^ ^ - I,. \ (, ...... ()„:-M- v:n--,. of Peruu.r. I • . ■ ...■■■• r . r r ..| ' > „.s... Pomarn ..... r .... > ! . I T . .. I ■ .-..d... Maneili.' >) ■ . I ■ . I'. . < ' . . I '. 1' i .. ■ .i . ... . ir., ' !,'...:.. . ' i .. i. ..: ! ' .ili... Churdi. \ ^ s ., .. ... ,,.. ., ,,. . i . . |. . , , ,.„,,,: . -..,■.(■ ,.. Sab- bath ill tl. \ r ..'.. \ . w . I .. , ... :,.r^ i...ii.|.;!ir.l. 1 .inuv.iiiia from theCoTP, .1 ■ \ - . W \: I, ... l,l,,m-L-...Cahin, Kiiifi.laiiiesl... KinK\\'i. IN '.!.. I . I . . (. . i . i-„.,».ta.'tors...C'(ilmiel Hci-knith... Count.lr W .ii.;!...ii!^. . I'm:, I: III !...i;, li.. II \ :J|, .,., li,tcat,and Iln|.l■isu^nlf•nt...Cross- ingthe Aiiis...Arri\al mini . . . n uam tlic'ir liilientance...Failure of the PJnterprise... Patronized by Willum ill I . iouof BRANDENBiiRG...Another Eft'ort to return... Embarkation of the Exil. - 11 : \ . .1 appointed Commander.. .Account of . . 67- RETURN OF THE EXlIJ-.s \ : ' ..f Force, and cnmnienciment of the March...Firet Encounter -Sifi.iHl : 1:1 ~ M 1 ■. , i '.!.- i In.. u. li s ill. n. ii,-..A-rciit uf Haute laice... Two ALvi.i,.iits.. I'.i- .■ ..: ■ . 1 . . . 11 . ' l;, Ill, I . .ri.u.Miil,. i;r...|.ti„nat St.Foi...l;.-lat I,.: ' 1 ,.:'... 1 ....... . . I'„,_.,:,v,.,;„„llt,. !;..>to. ration. ..llar.!-lii|.- M ■ i . r.i . ,: .: i , ... ■ -. n ..unt '^.i^lli^■l•-...KIlte^- tainment at Sai.ii.. ■ ■' ,,.,_ ; :,lil \ ., .... I.. K. l._..|.- Snli... 1.11 Hi-t -i_iit of their Nativ,. liill-. 1 >. . . . ! . \ .ulii ol i',-,^, hi... .Nn.tli ! l.ii ..l lli.ir .M.irrli..,'J'nih^iu tions in desceudiny tin- ( . . 1' \ nil at I'.iKdl.. I'lilili.. W,n>liii. in tli.. Chuiili nf (liii.jou... Rencontri. wiib tl... I .... i ■ ^ .mil 1 1, i..;ii .ii |'„.hi, ( i.ii h t.il,, n ni s lii.n.i,.. ,* ti.uk and ( '.ii.lure e Enemy... amp...SKir- VALLEYS OF DAUPHINY.— Description...aueyras...Freissinieres...Mont Genevre...Cesanne... Brian(,-on... Roman Antic|nities...St. Ambrose... Historical Memoranda. ..The River Durance...State of theInhahitalits...l)i.Th.iu\s .V.-miint nf flic Inhabitants Hinniihars Kn.-id, Val I,oui.se...FKLIX NEFF...Ui'\"ltin^ ^i.;--.i." . . I..I I'... Ii. ,.!''. . I I :..- 1 1.-, in. 111. ii 1 1. n II 1 M . .i i-.' .SirralarWatcr- fall...PriiniiiM.Si.|., . ■ •- 1 .,■. :i . .' i i' Avalanches... Pallon...Cli.iii.. 1..I- ^11. 1. 1 .. -. \ i: ■ - \ ..ll.-y of theGuil ...Gran(li.ur..tii-~-. . . |. i' \ I I , \ . :1 .. .M r. Ehrmann.. La Chalp. ..Biu.ii.l '. \ \:. .1 - . il„. Pastor.... Valley of St.Veran...Moliin - \ \ ' .... : ii i. . - \ccount...Champsaur... Vars...LaGrave...l' 1 . M . . , ,,,, . . 171—200 BAN DE L.\ not ill -11 ... Sk.tcb of the Life and Labour.. ..: I 'I . I : 1 ''1 '■ 1 -Annals of the Ban ...Anec.;.. . in., ili -h 1 1; ... 1 i . 1 Krviewoftho subject .i I . W :. -. \ . r .' '. ■■ I.. 1- 1.. I'. I .' ( 'hamois and Lammc.rul .■! IT. \ .d l-n..,., I l.m.:, 1 i.f d'l,. ...... \ .il i. . ..i 1 1 ..l.i.ll..n I 'i.l n.. d' .nillr... Appendix ...Historical Dncunicnts... Loyalty and I'uty of the W aldi.iisi.s...Uniiiiial Anecdote of the King... Their Co.\FES.sioN OF Faith, as published with the Manifesto, A.D. ll)5o . . . . 200— 21G N.B. The above Volume will be found to contain : — Sketches of History, Statistics, Society and Manners ; Education, Literature, and Science ; Mineralojiy, Botany, Geology ; Bioyraphical and Characteristic Notices; Anecdotes and Traditions; Popular,Customs and Amusements : Arts, Agricutture,Produce, and Manufactures ; vnth much diversified matter ; the results of personal intercourse with the country and people of the Valleys. %* The Poetry interspersed in this Volume, unless where otherwise marked, is original. DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. LIST OF PLATES. ARTISTS. BTT.-Bartletl. BR.-Brockedon. %.-Stanfield. H.-Harding. ToSacePage Portrait Vignette— ViLi.AR, Val-Pelice . . . .Btt. Map of the Valleys SusA Btt . Turin, and the Plains of Piedjiont . Btt . St. Ambrogio, near Susa Btt . 10 Turin, from the Vigne de la Reine . Btt . Bridge of the Po Btt . The River Dora Btt . Pignerol, from the East Btt . Pl(!NEROL, BY MuONLIGHT BtT . 20 St. John, and Luzern Btt . 22 La Tour, Val-Pelice Btt . La Tour, and Luzern Btt • The Protestant Church, Bobi,Val-Pelice,Btt . 33 Ruins of Fort Mirabouc, V.vl-Pelice . . Br . 38 Bobi and Val Pelice Btt . 44 The Col de la Croix, during a Tourmente, or Snow-Storm Btt . 48 Val Angrogna Br . 57 Pra del Tor, Valley of Angrogne . . Btt . 59 The Barricade of Pra del Tor . . . . Br . 65 St. Germain, Val Clusone Btt . 67 The Fort of Fenestrelle Btt . 70 Pomaret, Val St. Marti.n Btt . 73 Maneillb, in the Val Germanasca . . . Ba . 78 I'he Balsille, with the Col de Guignevert and the Col du Pis Br . 81 Prali, Val St. Martin Btt . 84 Post of the Vaudois in the Serre-le-Cruel, Btt. 89 Monte Viso, from the Col de Julien . . Br . 98 Scene in the Val Isere, near Tignes . . Br . 113 The Lake of Gene\'a and Mont Blanc, from the Forest of Nyon Br . 120 Castle of Ivoire H . 123 Boege Bb . 126 FiLLi S . 127 Thk Lake of Geneva, prom Col des Voirons, Br 128 Viti, AND THE Mont Mole Br . 129 Cluse, Savoy Br . 130 The Valley of Maglan, from Comblou . Br . 132 To face Migeves, Savoy Br . Col d'Haute Luce Br . The Col de Bon Homme .... . . Br . Sey, or Scez, Val Isere Br . Gure, Val de Tignes Br . Bonneval, Valley of the Arc . . . . Br . The Col of the Little Mont Cenis . . Br . Head of the Valley of Jaillon . . . . Br . Fort of Exille, Valley of the Dora . Br . Salaeertrann Br . The Valley of Pragelas, opposite the Col du Pis, Morning after the Battle . Br . La Traverse, Val Pbagelas Br . L.4C NOIR, ON THE CoL DE ClAIREE . . . Br . The Bal.sille during the Attack . . Btt . Cesanne, on Mont Genevre .... Btt . Approach to BR1AN90N, from Mont Genevre,Btt. Approach to BRIAN90N, fro.m Mont Dauphin, Btt Val Queyras, from the Entrance of the Valley OF Arvieux Btt . Lake La Roche, Valley of the Durance, Btt . The Approach to Dormilhouse . . . Btt . Church and School op Felix Neff, Dorjiil- HousE Btt. Mont Dauphin, Champcellas, Val Durance, Btt Scene in the Pass of the Guil, between Mont Dauphin and Queyras .... Btt . Bridge over the Guil, near Mt. Dauphin, Btt . La Chalpe, and Brunichard .... Btt . Chateau Q,ueyraz, Valley of the Guil Btt . St. Veran Btt . Pallons, Val Freissiniere Btt . Mountains of the Ban de la Roche, from the Cathedral of Strasbourg . . . . Br . ScHiRMECK, Ban de la Roche Br . FouDAi, Ban de la Roche Br . St. Joire, Val Isere Br . Pont de la Cret Br . St. Foi, in the Val Isere Br . The Mountains op the Vaudois, from the Col de Touilles Br . THE WALDENSES VAUDOIS OF PIEDMONT. " Amatores maxime pacis et tranquillitatis : morum suavitate confirmationeque singulari ; opens laboribusque maxime dediti." Camerarius, de excidio reliq. Valdensium. " Tributa principi, et sua jura dominis sedulo et summa fide pendebant : Dei cultum assiduis precibus, et morum imiocentia proseferebant."— THUANi,Hts<. lib. vi. INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. In the great political divisions of Italy, every district presents some epoch in its history, more prominent than the rest, which the natives refer to with exultation, and strangers peruse with interest or advantage. Every section, however limited in extent, has its amials — every community some emphatic page— in which the strife of faction or struggles for independence have developed, in their course, the passions and energies of the human mind. But of all nations or provinces, where the noblest virtues have hcen called into action, and where love of coimtry and zeal for reHgion have alternately endured the most grievous calamities, or led to the most glorious results, these Valleys of Piedmont— a spot scarcely noticed in the maps of Europe— stand forth in brilUant distinction. From the magnanimous traits, heroic sacrifices, and startling incidents which their history presents, it has aU the character of an ancient epic, aU the materials and variety of a tragic drama, but of a drama stamped with the seal of truth. As a distinct people, the Waldcnscs became first knowni in history at the commencement of the ninth century, during the life of Claudius, bishop of Turin— the WicklifTe of his day, and the strenuous advocate of primitive Christianity. By tradition, however, carefully handed down through a long X THE WALDENSES. line of ancestors, they trace their origin to the first dawn of revelation, and, in tlie present day, profess the same doctrines which they imbihed from the apostles.* Till this period, however, they had been comprised within the diocese of Turin, and offered few distinctive features in religious dis- cipline which coidd excite the jealousy of their neighbours, or the suspicion of the universal church. Down to this time, much of the original spirit of Christianity had maintained its sanctifying influence over the minds of men; but this being gradually undermined, innovations crept in. Rival altars were established mider papal sanction, and the primitive worship of the Trinity was polluted by the introduction of images, to which oblations were to be offered, and days 'appointed to be kept holy.' Thus, what enriched the church in a temporal view, overthrew its gospel purity : it dispersed the flock in pilgrim- ages ; established fines and penance as peace-offerings for sin ; threw down the altar raised by the apostles ; and substituted ' many divinities ' for the one sole Intercessor between God and man. Dm-ing the general tide of corruption, however, the Waldenses stood aloof. Strengthened by the example of their excellent prelate, under whose spiritual jurisdiction they had enjoyed the blessings of a somid faith, they were neither carried away by the force of example, nor ensnared by the seductions of those who advocated the new and imposing ritual. They regarded image worship, or the offerings presented to the relics of saints, as not only diverting the mind from the sacred channel of devotion, but- as an insult offered to their reason, degrading to the dignity of christian worship, and in direct opposition to its first principles. Their rules of life and doctrine were drawn from the authority of Scripture ; and by this infallible standard their religious opinions were framed and exemplified in practice. Though sufficiently distinguished by their lives and conversation to be already suspected of disaffection towards the chm-ch — the pmity .of wliich had been so glaringly profaned by recent abuses — their own peaceable character, and tliat inte- grity and moral worth for which they were proverbially distinguished, still screened them from persecution, and even endeared them to those with whom they had social intercourse. Thus practically inculcating peace and good-will, and too obscure to be made the objects of political resentment, they became the faithful depositaries of that sacred truth, which was one day to strike deep root into the soil, and call the nations to partake of its fruit. In the mean time, sanctioned by the innovations of a former Council,f the universal church con- ♦ St. Paul and St. James are supposed to have been the first messengers of glad tidings in these Valleys, t Iconolatria, or the worship of images, was first recognised in a council convened by Pope Adrian at Nice, a.d. 792. INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 3 tinned to fall away from its evangelical simplicity — In pejus mere ac retro suhlapsa referri. Pomp, and ceremony, and festivals, were multiplied ; new saints were added to the calendar; cities, and churches, and communities were called by their names, and formally dedicated to their protection. The simpUcity of early worsliip had degenerated into gorgeous ceremonial; and, in proportion as corruption invaded the sacred province of the sanctuary, the distinctive features of the Waldensian creed became more conspicuous. As a lamp gathers bright- ness amidst surromiding darkness, the lustre of their example became more and more seen and felt. But this, though evident to all with whom they came in contact, was not yet suffered to destroy their peace; the influence of moral rectitude, and the strict observance of those precepts which had descended to them from the first preachers of Christianity, proved their safeguard ; and thus, though not exempted from trials, the Valleys were long the scene of comparative tranquillity. Their barhes, or theological teachers, trained up their youth in a knowledge of the Scriptures, and extended their colonies by numerous ramifi- cations in Italy and the adjoining countries. But, at last, the aspect of affairs was changed ; and towards the close of the fifteenth century, the storm that had long been gathering over this devoted people, burst upon them in a series of persecutions. Prejudice and superstition, and the grossest calumnies, now singled them out as reprobate schismatics, against whom their fellow-subjects vented their abhorrence, Rome fuhninated its anathemas, and heaven manifested its WTath. Their lives and property were at the mercy of inquisitors. De- barred from social uitercourse, expelled fi-om the sanctuary, denounced by the priesthood, beset with spies, and burdened with imposts, they had no re- sources but in the purity of their consciences, no refuge but at the altar of their God. But the fierceness of persecution seemed only to increase the measiu'e of tlieir fortitude. Althougli open violence and secret treachery, the soldiers of the state, and the hired assassin, united to exterminate the proscribed race, and eradicate their very name from the Valleys : although marked as the victims of indiscriminate massacre, of lawless plunder, of torture, extortion, and famine ; their resolution to persevere in the truth i-emained unshaken. Every punish- ment that cruelty could invent, or the sword inflict, had expended its fury in vain ; nothing could subvert their faith, or subdue their courage. In defence of their natural rights as men — in support of their insulted creed as members of the primitive church — in resistance to those exterminating edicts which made their homes desolate, and deluged even their altars with blood, the Waklenses exhibited a spectacle of fortitude and endurance that has no parallel in history. 4 THE WALDENSES. It attracted the sympathy of Christendom, and betrayed even their enemies into expressions of admiration.* They preferred exile and confiscation to the favours tendered them as the conditional rewards of perfidy. They perished in dungeons, by famine, and by a series of refined cruelties, on vehich we shudder to reflect.f When, at last, driven from their homes, and exposed to the horrors of an Alpine desert, where many expired, and many sorrowed over their expiring friends, the remnant were still supported by the consoling thought, that they were exiles and martyi-s, but not apostates .' They felt also— for nothing less could have upheld them under such accumulated misery— they felt that, although many had sealed their testimony with their blood, an invisible hand was still leading them onward, and that the time of restoration would yet arrive : ' They were persecuted, but not forsaken ; cast down, but not destroyed.' Of this expatriated remnant, those who succeeded in effecting their escape were joyfully received by the Protestant states of Switzerland, Germany, and Holland, where the facts of their oppression and wTongs had long preceded them, and awakened that fraternal charity which had no place in the hearts of their countrymen. Here they were received with open arms, respected as men, adopted as citizens, honoured as martyrs, imitated as Christians, and, where the expression of public favour was withheld, cheered and consoled by private sympathy. But the hospitality and sympathy of strangers could not appease the yearnings after home. Nothing could stifle in the Waldensian exile the remembrance of those Valleys with which were associated all that is holy in the sanctuary, or endearing at the paternal hearth. In his dreams by the Aar, the Rhine, the Neckar, or the Elbe,:): the waters of his native Pelice or Clusone resounded in his ear ; the living and the dead rose up before him, and called upon him to return. By day, his thoughts were absorbed by the past ; and wherever two or three were met together, prayers were breathed, and tears mingled, for their native land. Like the disconsolate Hebrews by the rivers of Babel, they wept when they thought of their native Zion, and invoked heaven for her peace. There, it is true, they had suffered ignominy and persecution in its most appalling forms ; and here they were at peace — provided with the means of industry, * For numerous testimonies to this effect, see Reynerus contra Valdenses. Thuani Historia, lib. xxvii. Baronius, ad Ann. xii. 127, Camerarius, and numerous others, which will be quoted in the course of these pages. t " Being destitute, afflicted, tormented . . . they wandered in deserts and in mountains, and in dens and caves of the earth . . . They had trial of cruel mockings and scourgings ; yea, moreover, of bonds and imprison- ment. They were stoned, they were sawn asunder, were tempted, were slain with the sword'." Heb. chap. xi. X Rivera, oa the banks of which they received the rites of hospitality, and established colonies. INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 6 and enjoying the protection of fraternal governments. Still, those scenes which had v\-itnessed their sufferings, had w-itnessed also their happiest hours. In these Valleys rested the bones of their ancestors ; and there, if still one voice survived near their graves, it seemed to implore them to return. They reasoned and felt as exiles only reason and feel; but as men, who have not suffered as they had suffered, can but feebly comprehend. Under the guiding influence of that invisible Power, which was leading them forward, to establish their feet at length on the paternal threshold, they resolved on the fearful chance of a return to their native soil. How this perilous enterprise was conducted ; by what miraculous efforts a band of eight hundred exiles — ill pro%'ided with every thing that could hold out any rational prospect of success- scaled the Alps, conquered at Salabertrand, and finally achieved the " glorious recovery" of their valleys, will form the subject of the foUowing pages. The warm interest which England has so often evinced in behalf of her " elder brethren," the Waldenses, is gratefully remembered by their descendants of the present day. Her generous sympathy, expressed by active benevolence, has been attended with results on which every Briton may reflect with honest pride. Of this brothei-ly spirit — the most imequivocal test of practical re- ligion—we have lately had ocular demonstration, and heard the aspirations of gi-ateful hearts, and the prayers of a long persecuted church, breathed for the prosperity of England. By the boimty of the state, and the collec- tive liberality of individuals, much has been effected ; but much stUl depends for its success on the prospective and continued exercise of christian bene- volence. For a time, and so long as the French retained possession of the countrs', all exclusive religious distinctions were abolished, and the Waldenses freely admitted to every right and pri\'ilege enjoyed by their fellow-subjects of Piedmont. But, with the last Peace, a new order of things arose ; the recent law in their favour was annulled, and many of the old laws were again put in force. They were subjected to severe restrictions ; charged with exclusive taxations ; politically disqualified from holding any command in the army; shut out from every avenue in the civil departments, by which integrity and worth might hope to arrive at distinction ; and exposed to numerous petty vexations, which showed that, in the mistaken policy of the government, they were still a marked race, suffering— not the punishment awarded to crime, but the penalty attached to their creed. Under these circumstances, the events which restored the ancient dynasty to the throne, and filled Piedmont with loyalty and rejoicing, proved to the Waldenses the signal of renewed sorrow and degradation. But that religion O THE WALDENSES. wliicli had animated and supported tliem, under former trials and humiliations, was agaki their solace and support. They had hoped, indeed, that the recorded proofs of intrepid resistance with which they had opposed the enemy at the first opening of the campaign, and the remembrance of that hereditary loyalty to which even their princes had borne grateful testimony, would now have been allowed to plead in their favour. But in the day of political reckoning, these merits were overlooked. Nevertheless, setting themselves peaceably to their tasks, fearing God and honouring the king, they devoted those energies to the state which had rendered them so formidable to its enemies. In this situation the Waldenses remain to the present day, and in this condition we found them last autumn. It is earnestly hoped, however, that, before long, the Sardinian government, by adopting a more generous and enlightened policy, will remove all odious distinctions, and do justice to itself in doing justice to this industrious portion of its most faithfid subjects. With respect to the scenery of these Valleys, the engravings speak for themselves. They embrace a rich and striking diversity of subjects — such as may be expected on the confines of two countries so different in physical character — and range between the awful solitudes of Fressiniere, or Dormeil- leuse, and the summer valleys of Luzern* and the Po. But, had nature been less auspicious to the painter — had the scenery been less sublime, or pic- turesque, or beautiful than it is — the actions alone, of which, for so many centuries, it has been the theatre, would stamp its bleakest rocks with an interest which no mere landscape, however beautiful, could inspire. The scenery, indeed, is well calculated to fascinate the eye and enchant the imagina- tion ; but it is only when surrounded by associations that it has power to reach the heart,— addressing us, like an intelligent spirit, through the allurements of a beautiful exterior. The connexion between natural scenes and liistorical records is here so peculiarly striking, that it would be difficult to fix on any point of Waldensian landscape which, in the almost incredible series of thirty- three wars, has not been the vantage groimd of religious freedom, or the sepulchre of its champions. — " Monemur, nescio quo pacto, locis ipsis qviibus eormn quos diligimus aut admiramur, adsunt vestigia. "f • In the topographical descriptions incorporated with this worlv, the English or French orthography has been generally substituted for tlie Italian. Something like uniformity seemed desirable in this respect, as several English writers appear to have adhered to no particular mode of spelling, but to have used both modes indifferently. If however, it be allowable in English to drop the final vowels in Milano, Turino, and numerous others, the same rule will sanction the spelling here adopted, and may prevent confusion. The natives themselves, it may be added, change the terminations of their proper names according to the language in which they write or converse : for example, Peyran or Peyrani j Pellagrin or Pellegrini. t Cicero de Legibus. ... \p SITUATION AND BOUNDARIES. SITUATION, EXTENT, AND BOUNDARIES. " Angustse Valles ubi cunctis exul ab oris Relij,no stabilem linxerat usque larem."— Verenfelsius, lfi95. The Valleys, so long consecrated as the retreat of this primitive community, and the theatre of events on which the reader still pauses with mingled sj-mpathy and admiration, are situated on the French and Italian frontiers, and combine, to a certain extent, the character and peculiarities of each. They belong to that division of the Alps,* described in ancient geography as the Cottian range, or great barrier between Piedmont and Daupliiny, and occupy the space where these moimtains, lajang aside their more savage aspect, are softened down into picturesquely wooded hills, green pastures, vine-covered slopes, and those fertile tracts stretching along the rivers, which jield a rich territory for the plough. Their situation has been defined with still greater precision by a native historian, who describes them as situated on the western confines of Piedmont, and included between the French frontier of Brian§on and the Italian prodnces of Pignerol, Susa, and Saluzzo. Their extent is about twelve Itahan miles from east to west, and nearly the same in the direction opposite, thus occu- pying a square of twenty-four French leagues.f Taking the to^vn of Pignerol as a point of survey, the spectator observes fom- diflferent valleys diverging before him, namely:— that of Pragela, or Clusone, towards the north, with Perouse, or St. Martin, at its further extremity ; on the west, the valley of Luzern, of which Angrogne is only a branch ; and on the south, that of Rora, the least considerable, but most elevated of the four which, collectively, form the Vallees Vaudoises, or Protestant Valleys of Piedmont. Till after the conclusion of the late war, few travellers had penetrated these interesting retreats; for they had little to gratify idle curiosity, and nothing that could allure the fasliionable tourist. Their glory was in their history. At various intervals, however, an occasional pilgrim left the beaten tract to \'isit • This range extends between Monte Viso anil Mont Cenis, iilong the Mont Genc\TC, and is so cilled from kingCottius, who had his residence at Susa, and was distinguislied as the friend of Cajsar and Augustus. Amm. Marcellinus has given a minute sketch of the Cottian Alps in his Rer. Gest.ar. lib. xv. c. 10 ; and Silius Italicus has painted them in all their real as well as poetical horrors, lib. iii. v. 479. But as the first of these authorities passed them with the Roman army, his debcription is graphic and exact. t " A I'occident du Pi^mont cntrc Brian9onnais et la province dc Pignerol, entre le Marquisat de Susc et celui de Saluccs, se trouvent ces Valines que les Vaudois ont rendues si cetebres. Lc\ir (Jtendue est d'environ douze milles d'ltalic d'orient en Occident, et autant (hi sud au nord : ce qui fait a peu pros un quarrtf de vingt- quatre lieues franfaises."— Brez. Their position is thus briefly stated by JIu.ston : " Pepuis Aosle jusqn'ik la mer, du cot^ du Pidmont il y a douze vallees, dont celles dcs Vaudois occupent prccisi!mcnt le centre."— Liv. i. p. 70. 8 THE WALDENSES. those scenes of the Waldenses on which history had stamped their achieve- ments; and thus the people, who on every occasion justified the hereditary virtues to which they laid claim, became the objects of enlightened charity, and a new study for the active philanthropist. During the last twenty years these valleys have become better known: the reports furnished by several of our distinguished countrymen* have met with a reception which, independently of their other merits, shows how deeply the peojjle of England feel interested in the research, and with what avidity they listen to every appeal on behalf of the Waldenses. Animated by a kindred spirit, and already familiar with the Alpine scenery in which they are embedded, the writer had last year the pleasui-e of carrying into eifect a long projected \-isit to the Waldenses. While there, it was his object to collect such information respecting the jjlace and people as should entitle his observations to some claim of originality, and bring down the chain of events, on which they are foimded, to the present day. But an essay of this nature, on which the highest attaimnents of the fine arts have been so liberally employed, must be expected to differ materially, in its features and treatment, from the many learned and popular works in which the subject has hitherto appeared. The nimierous scenes for which this christian " Sparta " has been rendered so remarkable, are here presented, for the first time, in a collective shape, and naturally direct attention to the physical and statistical, as well as to the moral, condition of the country — circumstances which must necessarily influence the literary matter, and demand a larger share of picturesque description than would be necessary in a work embracing the more general topics of history. But although limited in this respect, as well as by the circumscribed nature of the text, notliing, it is hoped, of paramount interest has been omitted. Much theological discussion, indeed, has been intentionally avoided ; but no important fact has been suppressed or disguised which could illustrate the character of the people, or aSbrd a faithful picture of their country in its past and present con- dition. In allusion to the past, however, the author has endeavoured to observe a middle course ; neither yielding to the strength of early predilections, nor led away by the force of prejudice. The best wTiters, ancient and modern — Catholic • Among these, the Rev. Dr. GiUy is entitled to special honour, tlis familiar acquaintance mth their wants, unwearied solicitude for their relief, his able and learned vindication of their cause, and his personal efforts in forwarding every object connected with their happiness, have associated him in a peculiar manner with all that is most dear to the hearts and hopes of the Waldenses. In the same career of active benevo- lence, we cannot pass in silence another faithful representative of British philanthrophy, Colonel B • who, after sharing in the last glorious campaign which reestablished the tranquillity of Europe, found a new field of generous exertion in the Protestant Valleys of Piedmont, where he is emphatically regarded as a friend and a brother. SCENERY OF PIEDMONT. 9 as well as Protestant— have been consulted; and, without implicitly adopting the opinions of either, he has endeavoured to reconcile their discordant endence. Wliere that has failed, as it too often has, the wi-iter has confined his obser- vations to such statements as are grounded on the immutable nature of facts, which no human testimony can invalidate, and to those ancient liistorical documents of which the authenticity has never been questioned. As a proper accompaniment to the subject thus briefly introduced, we shall now indulge in a few discui-sive observations on the countries by which the Valleys are immediately surrounded — but more particularly Piedmont, with which they are physically as well as politically connected. By these means, the reader will form a more clear and correct notion of each locality, and its respective bearings, and be enabled to follow the writer through the different stages of his subject without confusion or obscurity.* This done, we shall proceed to take the Protestant valleys in detail ; but, passing over their less important features, fix only on those which have either some striking place in history, or to which the beauty of their natural scenery has given peculiar attractions. The sketch of Savoy will be incorporated with those scenes representing the wild and perilous track by which the Waldenses returned from exile under the intrepid Arnaud, and were reinstated in their native valleys. The %dews in Dauphiny and of the Ban-de-la-Roche, in Alsace— localities with wliich the recent labours of Felix Neff and the Pastor Oberlin are so closely associated— vsdU complete the work, and furnish the wi-iter with some interesting materials respecting men who, in the highest acceptation of that term, were the bene- factors of their species. In its natural featm-es and productions, the territory of Piedmont is one of the most varied within the vast curtain of the Alps ; and viewed from those lofty summits that flank the plain of Turin and the Po, never fails to awaken in the spectator's mind a degree of surprise and pleasure which is scarcely to be felt when seen from any other point of the Italian frontier. A vast plain, variegated by innumerable towns, villages, and the summer residences of the nobility, extends at his feet. Behind, and above, the Alps soaring aloft in all their wild sublimity, exhibit their glacier summits, their scathed and shapeless masses of granite— -here mantled with dark forests, and there rent into profound chasms, through which the cataract pursues its thundering course to the valley. Isolated summits, stationed like outposts in advance of the colossal group of Alps, relieve tlie uniformity of tlie plain; and, crested here and tjicre * This, however, will be rendered e.isy by a filance at the newly constructed Map, which forms a valuable accompaniment to this work, and exhibits every feature of the Valleys in its relative position. D lU TilE WALDENSES. with the monuments of religious or feudal domination, serve as landmarks in liistory, which meet the eye m every direction, and revive the records of their owii particular epochs.* Over the wide space which intervenes between the Apennines, and the more advanced bulwarks of the Alps, numerous rivers pour their copious waters, which, after contributmg to the beauty and fertility of the landscape, carry their tribute into the Po. The etymology of Piechnont is self-evident, and describes the natm'al position of the country as extending along the base of the mountains. But this distinc- tive appellation is comparatively modenr ; its ancient name of Liguria included many distinct provinces, of which the Statielli inhabited the eastern portion ; the Vagiennij that tract which extends between the Po and the Tanaro ; and the Tam-ini — so called from their warlike ensign of a bull — the fertile space included between the Po and the Doria Riparia. The country between the Doria Baltea and the Sesia, was occupied by the Libeti — the tract now com- prised in the districts of Biella and Vercelli. But the only provinces to which, in the recent statistics of Piedmont, the present work has any special reference, are those comprised under the political sections of Tui-in, Susa, and Pignerol — and to these we limit the present remarks. Of the three regions into which Italy may be divided, in respect to its cHmate, soil, and commercial resources, the first is that wliich opens at Susa, and extends along the valley of the Po — a tract which fully vindicates its characteristic title of "the garden of Italy." It is the country of luxuriant harvests and unfading pastui-es; where the vine, the olive, the walnut, and the mulberry, amply repay cultivation ; and where crop succeeds crop without exhausting the soil or becoming deteriorated in quality. The wine of Pied- mont, though abundant in quantity, has not hitherto been brought to such perfection as to render it an important article of commerce; that of Asti, and some others, however, are high in price and reputation. The rearing of silk-worms is a department in which the inhabitants of Pied- mont — -with great encouragement on the part of the landed proprietors — have found much lucrative speculation. Their forests of mulberry trees constitute a certain annual revenue ; and from the food thus amply supplied, and to which every year makes some fresh contribution, silk-wonns are here propagated to an unlimited amount, and a vast quantity of raw silk prepared for the market, f * With the exception of the Superga, the most remarkable of these rock-built palaces is the Convent of St. Michael, perched, like an eagle's nest, on a rock, nearly precipitous and overhanging the village of Sant. Ambrogio. The Chateau of Rivoli is also, in point of site, a commanding feature. t One of these raw silk manufactories has been very recently introduced at Latour, which promises to be PKOVINCE OF TURIN. — SOIL AND PRODUCE. 11 Silk, indeed, is the staple commodity of Piedmont, and tlie principal source of its rural industry. One great advantage resulting from the cultivation of the mulberry is, that it thrives in a soil where hardly any other vegetable would. The cultivation of rice is another branch of rural economy, but confined to localities natui-ally marshy, or subject to periodical, inimdations. The rich allmdal soil, of which the plain is chiefly composed, produces excellent crops of wheat, flax, and hemp, and affords luxuriant pasturage for the breeding of cattle, which are annually exported in considerable numbers. Turkey wheat is also raised in great quantities, and of superior quality. On the higher grounds — which assume the shape of longitudinal or transverse ridges — the soil is light, dry, and gravelly ; and on that account reserved for the ^dne, which, if managed with the same skill as in France, might be rendered an important agent in extending the public revenue. But here, as in most parts of Italy, the mysteries of the ^nne- press are still a sealed book. On the acclidties, where the grape ceases to flourish, and where, as already stated, no other profitable crop could be raised, the mulberry fills up the blank, and luxuriates, seemingly, in proportion to the sterility of the soil. The stem and branches of the tree are not only more vigorous and healthy, but the leaves are infinitely better in quaUty than those grown in a humid soil — a fact which is known to produce a very sensible difie- rence in the quality of the silk.* "Wedged in between the Pennine, Grecian, and Cottian Alps, and — by its natural position under their very shadow — involving a certain weight of atmo- spheric influence, the climate of Piedmont must be necessarily variable. But, bounded towards the south, by the wavmg chain of the Apennines, and traversed by numerous rivers and canals, which di-ain the soil of its superabundant moisture, the evils which might otherwise result fi'om situation are happily neu- tralised, or at least greatly modified. The torrents constantly discharged by those inexhaustible reservoirs, the glaciers of the Alps, and which, if only impeded for a day, would transform the magnificent plain, through which they circulate with vi\'ifying influence, into a pestilential marsh, are here concentrated and hurried forward to the Adriatic.f Thus, dried by the influence of a powerful sun, and drained by the great natural aqueduct of the Po, the soil is refreshed without attended with many advantages to the iniUistrious poinilation ; but how it may operate in a moral point of view is a question of no slight importance to the rising generation. This will be noticed under its proper head. • On the rearing of silk-worms, .ind other topics connected with this important branch of mdustry, the reader may peruse irith advantage the treatise on that subject by Comte Dandolo. t It is calculated that one-third more rain falls in Italy than in the middle provinces of France. The proportion as to Piedmont is probably still greater ; and yet, at times, the drought is severely felt. 12 THE WALDENSES. being saturated, and the air purified of tliose noxious exhalations which, under other circmnstances, would accumulate, stagnate, and corrupt every source of health and enjoyment. The winter of this chmate is generally severe ; the snow falls early, and often covers the plain for several successive months.* During the tramontana, or wind from the Alps, . the cold is peculiarly searching. The sudden, and continued, alternations of temperature which attend the vernal equinox, are prejudicial to health, and a source of considerable annoyance to strangers. But, on the very frontier of these gigantic Alps, where the causes of atmospheric phenomena are in constant operation, and of which the angry breath is sufficient to scatter a bhght over the fairest vegetation, an equable temperature is the last thing to be expected. If the wnter be severe, the smnmer is generally in the opposite extreme ; and it is then that the langour and oppression thereby induced are relieved by the evening breeze from the mountains — a luxury to which all who have made summer rambles in the valley of the Po will bear grateful testimony. To preserve their vines from the effects of this severe cold, the proprietors are in the habit of covering them vdth earth during winter, and of observing various other precautions respecting the fruit trees, to which the cold woidd be destructive, in proportion to its sudden access, after long continued heat. Violent storms of thunder and lightning are the usual announcement of winter — a fact which, as it has often been observed, explains the well-known passage of Horace,f in which, unless convinced of the fact, we should be apt to treat the affirmed connexion between snow and thimder as a 'poetical licence.' The study of meteorology, however, fully exonerates the poet, and confirms the truth of his philosophy. In the month of August last year, the wi-iter was overtaken, by one of those ouragans, or premonitory tempests, between Pignerol and Turin. The evening was just closing in, and the effects of the lightning, as it burst from its cloudy tabernacle, truly appalling. Every .succeeding flash brought the minutest objects into view, and, by contrast, rendered the darkness which followed intense. The thimder, which broke immediately overhead, and with a commotion that seemed to shake the earth, • On setting out for Turin, a few years snice, the ivriter left France with all the usual symptoms of an early spring; but on his arrival here, the ground had been covered with snow for many weeks, and continued so. When he visited the Superga, the path, in several places, was cut through a layer of snow several feet thick. In the beginning of March, a few days after his arrival in Piedmont, he set out for Genoa, where again the spring seemed rapidly advancing, and, in its symptoms, formed a striking contrast to what he had witnessed on the Po. t " At cum tonantis annus hyhernus Jovis Imbres nivesque comparat." PROVINCE AND CITY OF TURIN. 13 was accompanied ^vith rain which, in a quarter of an hour, had transformed every ■ trickling stream into a torrent. The storm lasted upwards of three hours, and wjis attended, as we afterwards learnt, wth several distressing accidents and loss of life. The adroitness and resolution with which our postiUion managed his horses during this difficult passage, were deserving of the highest praise. Though so near the Po, the fall of liis ancestor, Phaeton,* seemed never once to have crossed his mind. Of the magnificent plain of Piedmont— so richly interspersed with objects that powerfully arrest the stranger's attention — the great and commanding feature is the city of Turin. The regularity of its plan, the multiplicity of its puhhc buildings, and the elaborate style of architecture by wliich they are aU more or less distinguished, give it an easy precedence over every other capital in Europe. Its situation, at the confluence of the Doria and the Po, is parti- cularly happy ; and the beauty of this natural position has been most liberally seconded by the embellishments of art. Though neither an extensive nor populous city, it is buUt with admirable regularity ; and, in a bird's eye view, exhibits its series of streets and squares — all laid down with mathematical precision, and presenting, in general, the most harmonious proportions, f The two principal architects employed in its construction, were Guarini and Giuvara. Turin is about a league in circumference, and surrounded by walks and drives wliich offer a delightful resource for exercise or amusement. Formerly, the city was strongly defended by ramparts and bastions; but these warlike securities have at last given place to the public walks alluded to — a change by wliich the inhabitants have been gainers in all that relates to health and pleasure. It contains thirteen squares and eighty-four streets — the latter drawi in a sti-aight line, and crossing at right angles, so as to distribute the city into one hundred and forty-five quartiers, or compartments. The four gates, namely, those of Susa, the Po, the Palace, and Porta Nova, are all of handsome architecture, particularly that of the Po on the east, and the Porta Nova on the south, which are cased vrith marble and highly ornamented with statues and pillars. To the stranger, nothing is more striking than the view presented to him as he enters by the gate of Susa. The street is of great length, straight as a line, and in the distance, where it terminates in the Piazza del Castello, seems diminished to a point. The perspective is singularly fine. Tlie buildings • According to those who explain this fable of the poets, Phaeton was a prince of this countiy, who studied astronomy, and in whose age the Valley of the Po was parched hy excessive heat, t According to Pliny, Turin— the Augusta Taurinorum— was the most ancient city of Liguria. 14 THE WALDENSES. which Kne the street are all of an imposing architecture ; and, in many instances, the house of the private citizen would pass for some elegant public edifice. It seems, indeed, a street of palaces ; and, although surpassed by the Strada Novissima at Genoa, is uirrivalled by any other in Europe. As a characteristic feature in these domestic edifices, every window is defended by projecting jalousies, or Venetian shutters, and crowned ynth. a handsome pediment. The entrance consists of a vestibule ornamented with columns and pilasters ; while the extremity of the court, seen from the street, generally exhibits some work of taste — in sculpture or painting — calculated to please the eye. The Strada del Po, flanked on each side by lofty arcades, and opening on the bridge, with the new marble church in front, and a series of hills, sprinkled with villas, is a dehghtful promenade, and available at all seasons, whether for shade or shelter. On the opposite extremity it terminates in the great square, where the old ducal palace of Savoy is an object of curiosity, if not of taste — for it is the theatre of many dark deeds, and " could a tale unfold" if it could find a historian. Its immediate but gentle descent towards the Po, and the excellent police regulations to which it is subject, render the streets of Turin remarkably clean. The salubrity of the air, particularly in summer, is improved and insured by the excellent custom of opening the sluices every night, so that for several hours out of the twenty-four, the centre of every street is traversed by a rapid current of water from the Doria, which refreshes the air, sweeps away every kind of refuse, and serves another important purpose, that of affording an abundant supply of water in case of fire. During the greater part of last summer and autumn, when the cholera at Genoa, Nice, and Coni, was committing such frightful ravages, this and other sanitary regulations were strictly enforced ; and to these vigUant measures, under Providence, Turin and other towns, probably, owed their comparative exemption from the visitation of that dreaded pestUence. Although a great many of the inhabitants, naturally fearful of coming into contact vrith so terrible an enemy, sought a temporary asylum among the Alps of Savoy and Switzerland, it is, nevertheless, highly to the credit of the Turinois, that by far the greater and more influential portion remained at their posts, actively employed in suggesting measures for the public safety, and encouraging the timid by their example. Happily for Turin, the mortality from cholera was limited to a very few cases, the first of which occurred while the writer was there. For the whole day after its announcement, the effect was visible in every countenance ; the shops were neglected ; the people talked in melancholy groups under the piazzas ; PROVINCE AND CITY OF TURIN. J5 the churches were crowded ; processions moved from shrine to shrine ; and the town presented much the appearance of a city in wliich the word has passed tliat — " the enemy is in the breach." Of the numerous churches, palaces, theatres, and public institutions with which Turin is so profusely benefited, enlivened, or adorned, no detailed account can be given in the limits of the present work. The same apology must be offered for other omissions respecting the state of society, the progress of science, education, and various other branches of statistics, moral and political, but of wliich brief notices will be found interspersed in the body of the work. A late census of the population of Turin makes a return of a hundred and ten thousand inhabitants ; but, calculating the effect of several buildings now in pro- gress, this estimate will soon be increased. The View here given is taken from the left bank of the Po, at a short distance from the bridge, and at a point where the new marble church — of a rotimda form, like the Pantheon — the Capuchin Monastery on the hill, the Vigna della Regina, the suburb, and a few villas scattered along the coUine, or accli\-ities, are seen to great advantage. Several of the market-boats that na-vdgate the Po are drawn up to the quay, and show the half-gondola stj'le of boat-building practised here and along the whole course of the river to the Adriatic. The bridge— or Ponte del Po, by distinction from that on the Doria — is an elegant specimen of art, built entirely of granite and marble, and combining the very difficult qualities of a light and airy span, with perfect soUdity of structure. On the right is seen the first house of the Piazza, and the StradadelPo, terminating, as before stated, in the great square. Higher up, on the same bank of the river, are seen the towers belonging to the Valentin palace, built, as the inscription informs us, by Christina of France, and dedicated to the " royal amusement" of her sons.* In the back-ground, the course of the river is seen terminating in the Alps on the south-west, with the isolated siunmit of Monte Viso on the left. The breadth of the Po at this point is stated at two hundred fathoms ; its depth is every where consi- derable, and its current strong and rapid. This magnificent river— the " Rex Flmiorum Eridanus" — takes its source about ten or twelve leagues from Turin, in the recesses of Monte Viso— the Vcsidus of poets, and which Virgil has described as aboimding in pine forests, celebrated for the number and fierce- ness of the wild boars that frequented them.f The Po becomes navigable • Hie ubi fluviorum Rex, ferocitate deposita placide quiescit, Christina a Francia Subaudise Ducissii, Cypri regina, tranquillum hoc suum delicium regalibus filiorum otiis dedicavit anno pacato 1G60. f " De montibus altis Actus aper, multos Vesulus quern pinifer aniios Defendit." Vmo. .T.ti. x. 70U. 16 THE WALDENSES. considerably above Turin; and, in a course of three hundred miles, receives the tribute of thirty rivers ; washes the vraUs of fifty cities and tovms ; * and communicates fertility and riches to the vast tract of coimtry known as the Regio Circumpadana, or Valley of the Po. In the environs of Tm-in, the number of churches, convents, villas, and chateaux, is almost unprecedented ; while the prospects they command, and the artificial riches they contain, are topics of general admiration among strangers. But of all these, both in the history of its origin, in the style of its architecture, and in the imposing aspect which it presents from a hundred different points, the church of the Superga is the most remarkable. This gorgeous temple was erected by Victor Amadeus II. in performance of a vow made on the spot, that if the Virgin would prosper his arms and enable him to expel the French, then beleaguering his capital, a church should here perpetuate his gratitude.f The vow was accepted ; the French were compelled to raise the siege, and the conditions faithfully complied with on the part of the conqueror. The plan was furnished and superintended in its execution by Don FUippo Giuvara, a native of Messina. The sums expended on this mag- nificent structure have been immense, and would have buUt, and endowed, a first rate university. In addition to the vast quantity of precious materials employed, the labour and expense of having them conveyed to their destination on the top of this steep and isolated summit were enormous. The church consists of an octagon dome, supported by eight massy columns, all of difierent and richly variegated marbles, with chapels of the most elegant design and costly decoration. To give any thing like a detailed account of this sumptuous pile — its cloisters, arcades, frescoed waUs, its " jewelled and enamelled altars" J — all of fine proportions and elaborate finish, would far exceed the prescribed limits of the present work. As a gorgeous monument, showing what may be effected by art when fostered by the superstition of princes, and the mistaken piety of their subjects, the Superga is a lesson for all ages, and resembles in its internal features the celebrated chapel of Lorenzo the Magnificent. Here is • This, however, is considerably under the estimate given in the following verses ; where the cities and rivers are estimated at a hundred each. " Qua Eridanus centum Jiuviis comitatus in fequor Centum urbes rigat et placidis interim'' undis.- — Fracast. Spph. p. i. t Victor Amadeus did not begin to redeem his promise till nine years after; and as it was not a written one, ungratefully gave her painted wood and plaster for marble. — Brockedon-, Excursions, p. 85. t On being shown the painting in this church, in which Victor Amadeus is represented addressing himself to the Virgin, and propitiating her aid by the promise of a splendid temple, Marshall Villars observed, that the Virgin bore an extreme resemblance to the duchess of Burgundy—" La Vierge," dit-il, " reasemble, on ni pent pas davantage, a madame la duchesse de Bourgogne." TURIN. — CHURCH OF SUl'F.Rri A. ]7 the royal sepulchre, where crowned death's heads, and richly emblazoned surcophagi, announce the precious relics committed to their keeping. " Even the storied um. Disguising Death by its magnificence, proclaims its mortal record traced in gems : Scroll, scutcheon, jewelled crown, and breathing bust— A glittering satire— shrine the royal dust !" As a station for the painter, and every lover of Nature's magnificence, the situation of this church is unrivalled. From its summit the panoramic effect is of the most richly variegated and comprehensive character. The accom- panying View embraces the whole chain of Alps, from Monte Viso on the left, to Monte Rosa on the right. The city of Turin spreads its towers and cupolas in the centre ; Rivoli in the distance ; under Mont Cenis, the Pass of Susa; and a little nearer and more to the left, the city of Pignerol and the Waldenses. The outline of the Alps is singularly bold and striking — here shooting up into colossal groups, and presenting the illusion of towers and battlements; there dividing into isolated pinnacles, and reposing their glacier crests on the relief of a deep blue evening sky. Immediately beneath are seen the windings of the Po, its confluence with the Doria and Stura, a vast plain covered with the freshest vegetation, and animated by innumerable country houses, whose dazzling whiteness forms a delightful contrast with the luxuriant foliage in which they are embosomed. This great landmark of the country, and lasting memorial of its founder and the passion of his age, is the first object that meets the traveller as he enters the great plain of Piechnont, and the last that disappears. But the hill of the Superga, as Dr. Gilly has well remarked, " would have commanded the same extensive prospect without the aid of that aspiring dome. Its bold elevation would- of itself have reminded posterity that there stood Prince Eugene by the side of the warlike duke of Savoy,* when his great mind com- prehended at a glance the blunders of the French army, and formed a plan for their defeat; but the basilica of Victor Amadeus ought .never to be seen without raising emotions unfavourable to its founder. It was cemented with the blood, and washed with the tears, of his people. He kept his vow to the Virgin, and thousands must have been wrtmg from his subjects to enable him to do so; but he knew not how to abide by his promises of protection to his * Eugene and the duke of Savoy first met in a meadow near Carmagnola : the one had the interview by descending from the Tyrolese Alps, and traversing the plains of Lombardy by his victorious troops, and the other by stealing a march from the recesses at the foot of Monte Viso, where he had been concealed, and protected by the Vaudois. They ascended the heights of the Superga together: and the transport of the royal fugitive was so great at hearing Eugene's plan for the relief of his capital, that when he was asked where he would dine, " At Turin !— at Turin f was his exulting reply.-GiV/y, p. 52. F 18 THE WALDENSES. faithful Vaudois, although tiiese promises were (ira\vn from iiim by services and sacrifices which deserved the amplest recompense." Taking leave of Turin, for the present, we now approach the Waldensian frontier, through the rich and extensive plain which terminates on the west at Pignerol. The landscape presents nearly the same features as those akeady noticed. On the right are the snow-clad summits of the Alps; on the left, the Po descends in a copious and fertilizing stream ; whilst the interval is filled up with hamlets, richly cidtivated fanns, fields bright and luxuriant with irrigation, and groves of fruit and mulberry-trees. The road, spacious and well kept, presents a succession of avenues, which generally command some prominent object at the extremity, or open in agreeable vistas to the Alps on one hand, and the hills of Saluzzo on the other. The first view of Pignerol, rising like an ampliitheatre in the midst of vei-dure, and backed by hills that gradually merge into the Alps, is picturesque and striking. The avenue, which terminates in its principal square, is lined for several miles with luxuriant vines, trained from tree to tree, wth crops of wheat in the intervals, and in the vintage season bending under the weight of the clustered grape. To the right, crowning a gentle swell of the landscape, a large convent rises through the midst of fig-trees and vineyards, as if to show how sanctity ' may prosper although surrounded by temptation.* The chief feature of Pignerol is the Cathedral, the terrace of which commands one of the most varied prospects in Italy. Within the last year it has undergone numerous repairs and decorations, but chiefly at the hands of the painter, who has now generally superseded the sculptor in tlie embellish- ment of the sanctuary ; and for this good reason, that the operations of the pencil are much more expeditious than those of the chisel, and wood and canvass cheaper than marble. This retrenchment has been considered a robbery of the shrine, and thereby endangering the safety of the state ; but hitherto no special proofs of " celestial disi)leasui-e" are recorded. The number of " votive tablets" in the church is very great — some of them remarkable speci- mens of the ludicrous and grotesque, but others of very tolerable finish and expression ; and the whole well calculated to illustrate the state of religious, or rather superstitious, feeling in this province. • " There solemn Capuchin, with cowl and cord, Doth sorely mortify the stubborn flesh ! In vain for him rich viands press the board- In vain for him the grape is gushing fresh ; For well he knows what banquet joys beget, Where wine abounds, sly Satan spreads his net." PIGNEROL. — CATHEDRAL. — NUNNERY. 19 " Here crown, heart, crucifix, and costly braid ; Rose knots, and beads— by holy palmer strung In Calvary's sepulchre, or hallowed shade Of rich Loretto— on its altar hung; Tablets that may interpret for the tongue Hopes fondly cherished, dreams to memory dear. Known but to heaven and the confessor's ear." The Citadel, formerly of great strength, is now a mass of ruins, having been demolished in compliance with one of the former articles of treaty con- cluded between France and Piedmont, In a tower of the extensive barracks constructed by Louis XIV., the " Man in the iron mask" — the object of so much curiosity and speculation — is said to have been imprisoned. Not far from the Cathedral, and a little lower, is a very ancient Nunnery, founded by Adelaide of Savoy in the beginning of the seventh century. The situation is highly picturesque, and commands a fidl and distant view over the beautiful landscape, but to which its consecrated inmates can never more return. It is a prison from which death alone can emancipate the captive — " Its threshold, like the gloomy gate of Dis, Shows other worlds, but shuts the path to this." The present Nunnery was formerly an abbey of monks, who distinguished the pious zeal of their order by the unrelenting rancour with which they persecuted the Waldenses ; but its gentler occupants of the present day, it is hoped, practise the dictates of a milder creed. It is always pleasing to accept the virtues of the daughter as an atonement for the father's intolerance. It would be difficult to find a scene better calculated to soothe the spirit, to elevate the thoughts, and inspire kindly feelings towards our fellow-creatures, than that which here engages the spectator. But, when he tiu-ns from the land- scape and opens the page of history, the beauty of Nature appears as if sombred over by the records of human deeds: the stake and the scaffold rise in melancholy contrast before him, and Pignerol, with all its present air of tranquillity, and all its natural beauty, seems transformed into a prison for the oppressed, and a stronghold for the oppressor. It was the priesthood and garrison of this city that had the Waldenses under their more especial surveil- lance. Here was the fortress from which the government could so readily dispatch troops into the Valleys for the execution of its inhiunan manifestoes; and here the ministers of the inquisition could hold a convenient tribunal for disposing of those unhappy prisoners whom the alleged crime of heresy had placed in their hands. Here also, as well as in the capital, an hospital existed — and still exists, although with very restricted privileges — for the reception ZO THE WALDENSES. of Waldensian cliildren, who had been decoyed from their parents, to be made the innocent converts to the Catholic faith. It was an asylum, only in one sense, for the infant ; but to the distracted parents it was the living sepulchre of their fondest hopes — the altar at which their name and creed were to be abjured — the school where their child, on whom they doated, was to be trained in the language of an apostate, and taught to regard its natural ties with abhorrence. No interviews were permitted between parents and children, and the only terms ever proposed for this effect were on condition that the former should renounce their creed ; for those wily " shepherds," the priests, naturally inferred, that by capturing the young of the flock the old must follow ; and that in a mother's bosom the love of her offspring was stronger than religion. But they were mis- taken in their calculations. The system, indeed, f)roduced a sorrow " deeper than the wail above the dead," but it does not appear that it made a single convert among the parents it had thus cruelly bereaved. Tlie edict which authorised this treatment of the Waldenses was repealed in 1794 — an epoch at which the government found it expedient to conciliate its Protestant subjects, by granting them permission " to see their children," provided " necessary precau- tions were taken at the interview." It forbade their forcible abduction with the view of obliging them to abjure the religion of their parents ; and ordered that girls and boys, who, at the respective ages of ten and twelve, presented themselves voluntarily at the asylum, should be under the direction of the ecclesiastical judges ; children who had not arrived at the prescribed ages were to be restored. But this indidgence was the result of political embarrassment, and not the spontaneous dictates of the court or church. The storm was gathering thick on the frontier, and the ties of nature were now to be respected, that the well-tried courage of the Vaudois might be made available in the great collision that was to follow. A regard to personal safety makes us " wondrous kind." Pignerol is the see of an archbishop, the Comte de Reis, whose instal- lation took place in September, 1824.* During the French occupation, part * The ceremony is thus graphically sketched by an eye-witness. " The day (5th of September) was exceed- ing wet. The large square had been levelled and strewed with sand and soft soil, which the rain soon converted intomud, ankle deep." . . " The archbishop arrived about five o'clock, and much of the ceremony was evidently abridged. He was preceded by two dripping trumpeters, and followed by about twenty people on horseback, forming a motley cavalry.". . . " At length the rain abated, the processional forces which had been dispersed by its violence reassembled, and in sometliing like order proceeded to the church." ..." The halt, the lame, and the deformed, headed by the verger dressed in a new suit of tawdry, and with a long sword, which puzzled his legs exceedingly, took the lead. These were followed by half a dozen squalidtlooUing monks ; then the priests of the city and those attached to the cathedral ; then the archbishop himself, wearing his mitre, beneath a white canopy, borne by four persons, and riding upon a white horse, caparisoned with white cloth and silver APPRO \rH TO THE VALLEYS. LUZF.RN. 21 of the episcopal revenue was appropriated to the maintenance of the Pro- testant clergy, but was again withdrawn on the re-establishment of the old r^qime. VALLEYS OF LUZEllN AND FELICE. In our advance westward, the landscape assumes a new and more imposing character. The mountains rise in abrupt masses ; here mantled in dense forests, and sprinkled with hamlets, or isolated habitations; and there, soaring up in sterile sublimity, and overlooked in the distance by the glittering pinnacle of Monte Viso. Along the base of the mountain frontier, the usual products of the soil — " corn, wine, and oil" — thrive with undiminished luxuriance. In the inten-al between the first swell of the mountains and Pignerol, the Clusone descends wth its copious tribute to the Po, but often leaves fearful endence of its power in the disrupture of its bridges and embankments. " Sternit agros, steniit s-ita la^ta." The nearer we approach those fastnesses in which, for so many centuries, the "Waldenses have entrenched their faith and freedom, the more we are struck by the contrast which they offer, compared with the rest of Piedmont; the more we appreciate those heroic drtues that have left in every defile imperish- able records of what they have achieved and suffered ; and the more we admire that piety and patriotism which counted nothing a sacrifice so long as they were left to serve God in the simplicity of their hearts, and to earn a frugal subsist- ence by the labour of their hands. Surrounded by powerful nations, in whose state policy they had little participation, and isolated by their religion, no less than their natural position beyond the pale of common sympathy, here they cherished in silent thankfulness that vital flame, first kindled by the apostles— a flame which has survived the shock of revolutions, the fall of empires, and descended with undiminished brightness to the present day.— Europe was shaken by bullion. This was not in imitation of his Master's humility in cntc.ing Jerusalem. The Ijreat mans house- hold followed ; and the proces.iion was brought up hy a large mob of citizens, and the ncishbourini; pe.isantr>-. On entering at the church door, the archbishop sprinkled those nearest to him with holy water-they had just received some purer from heaven. At the porch he went through some ceremonies too long for us to witness, in the midst of a crowd from whidi we found it difficult to extricate onniUe%r-Brockcdons Eicurtwnt, pp. 89, 90. 22 THE WALDENSES. convulsions ; Italy was overrun by successive hordes of barbarians ; the monu- ments of her ancient glory were trampled under foot; the shrieks of the oppressed were heard in every city, and the march of rival armies resounded from sea to sea ; science and art gave place to violence and the sword ; mind was every where held in subjection to matter ; endowments, which confer dignity on human nature, were brought into degrading contrasts with physical strength ; and the whole fabric of society convulsed and degraded during a period which has been justly characterised as the dark ages of history. But here, during the long reign of ignorance and superstition that intervened— like " a vase in which some precious treasure had been hermetically sealed up" — these Valleys enclosed the precious doctrines of revealed truth ; and, while the surrounding nations " sat in darkness," continued in the enjoyment of its light. When, at length, the passion for crusades had wasted itself in fruitless expeditions, and the symptoms of a new morn began to cheer the moral horizon of Europe, the " vase" was opened, and from this sequestered corner of the christian vineyard a new race of evangelists disseminated those "glad tidings" of which they had long been the faitliful depositaries. To their labours in Bohemia, where their tenets were first ])romulgated by John Huss and Jerome of Prague, and previously embraced by WicklifFe, England is indebted for the earliest seeds of the Protestant Church. " Dift'used, and fostered thus, the glorious ray Warmed where it went, and ripened into day. 'Twas theirs to plant in tears the precious shoot, "Tis ours in peace to reap the promised fruit. By them the hulivark of our faith was built— Our church cemented by the blood they spilt ; In Heaven's high cause they gave all man could give. And died its martyrs, that the Truth might live." In the Valley of Luzern, the first Waldensian or Protestant village is that of St. John, the residence of the moderator M. Bonjour, a man thoroughly informed on every subject connected with his sacred office ; active in the discharge of its important duties, and — happily for the flock, to whom he is endeared by every tie of duty and affection — still in the vigour of Ufe. The Protestant church formerly existing at Chiabas, near Angrogne, and now in ruins, has been substituted by a handsome edifice in this village. It is the best of the Waldensian temples,, and, being erected on a considerable eminence, forms an agreeable feature in the landscape. Overlooking the village, and meeting the eye at a distance, it informs the spectator that here is the first line of demarcation which separates the popish and apostolic chuirches. The interior is of an oval form, simple, but elegant in arrangement, and crowned by a handsome cupola. VALLEY OF H'ZF.UN. LA TOUR. i2;} It has two small towers, but ol" an arcliitccture much too superficial to he used as belfries. A paratonnerre, or electric conductor, however, ought to be — and probably now is — employed, in order to prevent the recurrence of that melan- choly catastrophe from lightning, which, in the summer of 18,S3, caused the death of several individuals. The Catholic church only is furnished with bells ;* but their peal serves the double purpose of assembling the two congregations. To avoid, however, as much as possible, all risk of contamination from the sounds that issue from the Protestant temple, and to shelter the lambs of their own fold from the " heretic wolves" on the opposite side, the Catholic party have erected a strong barricade in front of their sanctuary. But, in former times, this barricade would have been composed of bayonets; so far, therefore, has the christian spirit of toleration manifested its progress in the Valleys of I'iedmont. The Valley of Luzern, composed of alluvial soil, is by far the richest of those in which the Waldensian Confederacy have any settlements ; and of these, the parochial district of St. John — comprising the hamlets of Peyi-ots, Gonin, Blonat, and Au-Fond — may be considered the garden. It consists of a picturesque and fertile plain, bordered towards the south by verdant meadows, dipping gradually into the waters of the Pelice, and in every other direction presenting a rich melange of fruit-trees, vineyards, and corn-fields. The vineyards are ])articularly luxuriant, and festooned from tree to tree at such a height from the ground as to leave spacious avenues, under shelter of which the oppressive heat of summer is unfelt, the labours of husbandry are carried on, and reapers gather in the rich wheat harvest. In the season when the mingled foliage of the \-ine and mulberry has acquired its full expansion — when the grapes descend in drooping clusters from the arched berceau — when the husbandman and his steers are seen at intervals through the trees, and the sound of happy voices unites in one universal expression of gladness and gratitude — it is a picture such as poetry itself could hardly exaggerate, and never fails to make a vivid and lasting impression on the stranger. The public road, the footpaths, and fences, are generally lined with fruit-trees of various kinds, but chiefly \vith mulberries, which, for the reasons already stated, the husbandman prefers to all others. He feeds the silk-worms with the leaves; and by his own and the kbour of this wonderful insect, pays the lancUord and the heavy taxes of the state. * The Protestant temple liaviiig two tnwcrs mlliout iiulls, ami tlie Catlinlic churcli one tower teith bell?, tlie circiimshince has given rise to the following pun : " A SI. .lean il y a trois clochers et deux s.ins (deui cents) cloches.'* — il/M.«/on, iiv. i. p. 45. — An excellent work, the second volume of which is anxiously expected by all readers of Waldensian History. 24 THE WALDENSES. As we advance towards La Tour, the capital of the Protestant Valleys, the sceneiy becomes bolder. Riclily wooded hills rise in undulating swells to the right and left ; in front, the Valley, contracting into a defile, shows at intervals the rapid course of the Felice, by which it is alternately wasted and ferti- lized. Luzern, a small Catholic town, is conspicuous on the opposite side of the river, and contributes, by its convenf. and church, to the picturesque features of the landscape. Its streets, now grass-grown, have been the arena of several tragical deeds, to which we shall advert in a future portion of the work. Between Luzern and the public road, a handsome building has been lately erected, the white walls of which form a pleasing contrast with the dense foliage in which it is embowered. But it is only deserving of notice as the first silk manufactory introduced into the Valleys, and where little short of a hun- dred individuals are now supplied with. the means of a comfortable subsistence. A little further the road crosses the torrent of Angrogne ; and La Tour, over- hung by the bold rocks of Castelluzzo, opens before us. La Tour, so called from the ancient fastness which closed the entrance to this defile, and built in an angle formed by the streams of Angrogne and Pelice, is much more remarkable for the station it holds in Waldensian history than for any peculiarity of situation or scenery. It engages the mind, rather than the eye of the spectator, and awakens associations which, for the interest they excite, are entirely independent of external appearance. But, had it been less famous in the history adverted to, its picturesque situation — with the bold rocks of Mount Vandalin in the back-ground, surrounded by vineyards, orchards, and embowered under the loftier shadow of walnut, chestnut, and mulberry trees — woidd have been sufficient to recommend it as a delightful residence. But when we view it in connexion with the ennobling virtues which have so often dis- tinguished its inhabitants. La Tour may be justly considered as the " Lacedtemon of the Valleys." The tower, by which it was formerly held in subjection, was dismantled by Francis I., destroyed by Lesdiguieres, but again rebuilt, and at last so completely razed that its very foundations have almost become a matter of question. The eminence on which it stood is still named the Fort ; but every other trace of its military importance has long disappeared under the shade of luxuriant vineyards. During the pestilence of 1630, La Tour was resorted to by several families of distinction as an asylum during that fearful visitation. Amongst others, tliat of Solaro retired hither with a daughter, the beautiful Octavia, whose death offers an affecting episode in the history of the time. Equally admired for the nrtues of her mind and the graces of her person, she was literally the " Rose EPISODE. — NEW COLLEGE AT LA TOUR. 25 of the Valleys,"* and might have served as an original for the following portrait : — " Early in years, and yet more infantine In figure, nhe had sometliing of sublime In eyes which sadly shone as seraphs' shine. All youth, but with an aspect beyond time, Eadiant and grave — as pitying man's decline Mournful, but mournful of another's crime, She looked as if she sat by Eden's door, And grieved for those who could return no more."* La Tour has been the scene of many calamities, to which we shall again advert. In 1593, the Spanish mercenaries laid a great portion of it in ashes, and continued their pillage with a brutality worthy of the cause in which they had embarked. t Previously to this, it was the scene of indiscriminate massacre, under the Count de la Trinite, in 1560, but the horrors of which were far exceeded by that which took place ninety years later, xmder the atrocious Pianezza. La Tour is the only place in the Valleys where the inhabitants are allowed the benefit of a classical seminai7.J For all the higher departments of a liberal education, the youth of the Waldenses have hitherto resorted to Geneva and Lausanne. A more propitious epoch, however, has at length arrived, and the public school of La Tour will henceforth be identified with a coUeo-e, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and which, we were happy to observe in the * Amongst other suitors she attracted the admiration of one whose religious sentiments were diametrically opposed to her own. For a long time, it appears, his attentions met with no encouragement ; for, however desirable in a temporal point of view; still, at a period when the violence of persecution had suffered little abe Acklaso's Compendium of the Hislory of the Vaudois. * " Praecipua Castitatis cura et lionos inter Valdenses; adeo ut vicini, qui alioqui ab eonun religione alieni erant. ut filianim suarum pudicitiae consulerent, vim a licientioso milite Teriti, eas Valdensium cura ac fidsi committerent." — Thuani, lib. xxvii. t ii. p. 19. 62 THE WALDENSES, of people Vfho resorted hither — particvJarly to the chmxhes of the Val- Luzern, as lying more in convenience with lower Piedmont — and who required the fi'equent preaching of the gospel, the pastors were also obliged to minister in various other places where the Protestants were numerous. They went about from place to place baptising infants, consoling the afflicted, instructing the ignorant, and all who were in need. They had stated times at which they repaired to the castles and other residences of the chief nobility, where the sacra- ment of the Lord's Supper was administered from time to time. For a field of labour so extensive, the number of preachers was insufficient ; and of the apostolic barbes who still survived, some, enfeebled by age, had earned an honourable retirement from the laborious duties of life, while others were engaged as missionaries in Calabria, Apulia, and other provinces of Italy.* This passage is remarkable under more than one consideration; it shows how much Italy was disposed at the time in favour of the doctrines thus pro- midgated ; and those visits of the poor barbesf to the castles and manors of the nobility — there to preach and inculcate the Word of God — is not the least interesting feature in their character. Much has been said of the troubadom-s, who went about from castle, to castle singing the exploits of heroes, or the charms of a mistress : is it less interesting to behold those messengers of peace engaged in a much more adventurous enterprise, presiding at the solemn rites of a proscribed religion — or prosecuting the more distant objects of their sacred missions in a pilgrimage which could not be performed vrithout personal risk and habitual privations? In the month of October, 1560, the Comte de la Trinite made preparations to invade this frontier with a powerful army, and force the Waldenses to capi- tulate on his own terms. As soon as the latter were certified of the hostile measures adopted, and of the numerous levies ordered for the service, they resolved to meet the danger with becoming firmness, and to avail themselves of those slender resources stiU left at their disposal. Various meetings were accordingly held, in which it was anxiously debated what expedients were to be used in order to defeat an expedition which threatened their very existence. * GilleSy chap. viii. Muston, liv. i. — This fact is supported by the following testimony from another source. " In nonnuUis Italia partibus, tarn Spoletanffi provinciee, quam etuun aiiarum circumjacentium regionum nonnullos ecclesiasticos et mundanos religiosos et seculares utriusque sexus versari, qui novum rilum intro- ducere moliantur." — Bull of Innocent VIII. Muslon, p. 183. t. The term barbe, that by which the Waldensian pastors were commonly distinguished, is a Piedmontese word, signifying uncle ; and was given in order to conceal their quality in times and places where its open avowal would have drawn upon them persecution and death, while at the same time it served as a pass-word, or term of recognition among the scattered members of their own community, to whom the barbes were sent in frequent pilgrimages. — Muslon. PREPARATIONS FOR BATTLE. 63 Tlie result was — To accept no conditions derogatory to the lionour of God and his revealed word ; to give themselves seriously to prayer and supplication, that He would avert the impending calamity; that every individual should provide himself with such necessaries as the case demanded ; and that all their movable property and provisions, their aged and invalids, women and children, should be carried up into the mountains, and there deposited in some place of security till the approaching struggle should decide their fate. About the end of the month the enemy's colunms were put in motion, and the Waldenses prepared for their reception by observing a day of solemn fast. The devout performance of their religious duties inspired them vdth a courage which nothing else could supply ; and, instead of lamenting their fate as victims, they already prepared themselves for battle with the confidence of victors. In every family the praise of God was expressed in psalms and spiritual hymns; and in this manner they mutually soothed and encouraged one another. Several, however, were of opinion that they should not take up arms till the last extre- mity, in order to evince their respect for their sovereign, and their great reluctance to shed blood. But reflecting that sooner or later it must come to this, and that, if the enemy were suffered to ravage their possessions, and plunder without restriction, they might be reduced to famine, it was resolved to stand on the defensive, and trusting in God, the witness and protector of innocence, to resist the first hostile inroad to the utmost of their power. But, said they, should it happen that we lift the sword in vain, and that God, in his inscrutable pro\ddence, has reserved us for still greater humiliation and suffering, then will we bear the chastisement, not only without a murmur, but with a full conviction that, although deferred, the day of our deliverance will yet arrive. The simple and affecting picture which the historian Gilles has given of this scene, is highly dramatic ; and Muston, in allusion to the same episode in his country's annals, closes his observations with the annexed comment.* Boyer, who was intimately acquainted with the character of the people, and whose admiration increased in proportion to that acquaintance, exclaims : — " Of all the nations that have existed from the earliest ages dovm to our own time, there is none, that of the Jews excepted, whose history presents such a mass of extraordinary occurrences as that of the Waldenses." But on this passage • " QAie j'aime ce stylesimple et n!uf,comme celui d"un fvans^liste qiii ferivait ses douleurs. Jen'ai jamais pu lire ce feuillet Kins une emotion qui s'est rarement renouvelfe. Ces hymnes de proscrits se retirant avec leurs families dans les montagnes ; ces touchantes et solennelles ceremonies ; cette sainte joie de soufFrir pour le Seigneur; et, en meme temps, ce courage si plein de noblesse et de dignity, dans des simples campagnarda. N'est-ce pas un tableau unique, admirable ? Jamais Walter Scott, ou Byron, jamais un Homere, eut-il conyu des scenes plus sublimes que celle d'un peuple entier se preparant a des pers&utions comme a une solennite !" 64 THE WALDENSES. Muston rightly observee, that the Jewish nation had miracles wrought in its favour, whereas the Waldenses have no pretension to any thing preternatural — nothing beyond a series of daring exploits, accomplished by the happiest imion of hearts, and a fearless devotion to the duties of their religion. In the month of February, the Waldenses were suddenly attacked in their position at the Pra-del-tor by three divisions of the enemy. The first advanced upon them by the opening from the valley, the second by the mountains of Pramol, and the third by the heights of Val-St. Martin.* The first division advanced slowly, in the midst of conflagrations ; the second was repulsed at the first shock. While Louis de Monteil, who commanded the third, taking advantage of the pause occasioned by the defeat of the others, was advancing rapidly across the snow, a Vaudois youth overtook and slew him at the head of his battalion. All the troops would have fallen into the hands of the Waldenses, had not their minister ordered them to fall upon their knees, and return thanks to Him who had given them the victory. In this manner he checked the spirit of revenge by awakening that of gratitude. He then exhorted them to spare the flying, and to shed no blood, unless where their own preser- vation rendered it unavoidable. In the mean tune, whilst all this was passing on the surrounding heights, the old men, women, and children, left at the Pra-del-tor, were in a state of agonizing suspense. During the day, they had heard the sounds of battle every where around them, and knew not what might be the result. In a short time, however, they beheld their fathers, husbands, and brothers, returning with the trophies of victory ; and the same evening the voice of public thanksgiving resounded fi-om every vale and hill. " Lift your voices on high ; let your hearts be lifted up in thankfulness to Him who hath given us the victory. A mighty army was set in array against us ; they counted the spoil, they spake of their ti'iumph ; they said in their hearts, ' We will root them out for ever ;' we vsdU give their houses to the flame — their wives and their children to the sword; that no remnant may be left. The earth trembled at their approach; the brightness of their armour — the trampling of their steeds — the shouts of the troops as they hastened to shed blood; and the * During four successive days, charge followed charge, with no other intermission than the time occupied in relieving the defeated columns by fresh troops from the rear. Having lost four hundred privates, eight captains, and two colonels, left on the field, in addition to the wounded, and those who had been interred, the Count was forced back upon La Tour. His second attempt to reduce this fastness was still more disastrous than the preceding. The force now brought against it consisted of Spaniards, who, after witnessing and suffering a repetition of the catastrophe, broke out into open mutiny, and refused to continue their operations against a post which they firmly believed was under the defence of supernatural agency ! A complete rout wns the consequence, in which the precipices and torrents of Angrogne were still more fatal than the swords of their pursuers.— ie.9ej-, p. 33 Morland, p. 23o.— Hist. Univ- "- i.x. BARRICADE. — PRA-DEL-TOR. 65 devastation that marked their course, were terrible to behold. They rushed upon us from the valley ; they burst down from the mountains ; they scaled the snowy precipices ; they hemmed us in on all sides. The thunder of battle opened its mouth; but the God of our fathers was on our side. Lift, then, your hearts to Him who hath given us the victory !" Their position is seen in the Barricade* of the Pra-del-Tor, which served the twofold purpose of a college and a citadel. It was the sacred spot in which they ihibibed the doctrines of their religion, and the natural ramparts on which they had so often assembled for its defence. It was here, says Muston, that, shortly before the attack, a Catholic matron thus prophetically addressed the Comte de la Trinite : " Sir," said she, " if our religion be better than the religion of those people, your arms will be victorious; but, if their religion be better than ours, then you will sustain a defeat." In his retreat, the comte was obliged to pass close to the gulf of Saquet, where, in 1488, a captain of that name resolved much in the same way to carry this ancient post of tJie Vaudois by storm ; but having entirely failed, and seeing his army routed, he terminated his career by throwing himself, vrith severalfof his followers, into the gulf which still records the disaster. The associations likely to arise in such circumstances could have had nothing to console the comte for such a residt — more particidarly as he had that very morning declared his resolution to exterminate the heretics. The central church of Angrogne stands in the hamlet of St. Lawrence, at the lower extremity of the valley, and, like that of Serres, a mile higher up, was constructed about the middle of the sixteenth century. Down to that epoch, it was only in the pastors' houses, or in those of private individuals, that religious meetings were tolerated. In this primitive sanctuary the people have, on more than one occasion, assembled to take upon themselves the vows of miion and fraternal concord by which alone they could hope to maintain a precarious existence. Here also, in 1532, was held the memorable assembly of Waldensian pastors, who were called upon to decide respecting certain questions of doctrine to which the Reformation had given fresh importance. Prassuyt, the hamlet already named, is remarkable as the place where, at the close of the fifteenth century, the duke of Savoy sent a bishop to hold a conference with the * La Barricade — to which the accompanying view, drami by Mr. Brockedon, presents a close resem- blance — is a narrow defile upon the side of the torrent : it is fenced in by steep rocks; and at the spot where the rocks were supposed to leave too wide a passiige, a strong wall of flints was thrown uj) to add to the natural strength of the position, and so contrived that one opening only was left by which the retreating party might escape to the fastnesses behind it See GUly's Ej-cursions. bb THE WALDENSES. Waldenses, respecting the peace which had been so glaringly violated by the sanguinary proceedings of Aquapendente, and other agents of the Inquisition. Of the rich and romantic scenery of Angrogne, our limits will not permit us to enter into any detail ; but when we describe it as a picture in miniature of Switzerland, the reader will form a just conception of its general features. All the ingredients of Alpine landscape, torrents, rocks, precipices, gloomy ravines, and gushing fountains — forests, that at once afford shelter and suste- nance — verdant meadows, to which the meandering streams carry freshness and fertility — fields and gardens, containing the produce of different climates, clinging to the very precipices, and evincing that unwearied industry on the part of the inhabitants which has purchased the means of life under the most unfavourable circumstances. But this department has been ably sketched by Dr. Gilly, and to liis work we have pleasui-e in referring oiu" readers. Descending into the Val-Clusone, by the Vachera — not the Alp celebrated in the history of ■ the Waldenses, but a hUl much less elevated, and nearly enveloped in forests — we enter the commune of Pramol. Until tire year 1573, the inhabitants of this place formed no part of the Protestant community, but were converted from the Catholic faith in a very remarkable manner, by the pastor of St. Germain, and at the very time that Bivague, on the other hand, was employing every possible agent for the conversion or destruction of the Waldenses. It was in this village, also, that, in 1630, the pastors of the Valleys assembled during the plague, which at that time was committing fearful ravages in Piedmont. The object of this meeting was to concert measures for arresting, or at least modifying, the virulence of the scourge ; but in their humiane efforts and unwearied vigilance to save others, the greater number among themselves fell victims to the disease. So great was the blank thus occasioned in the different parishes, that they had to be supplied by others from among the pastors of Geneva and Lausanne. ST. GERMAIN. 67 THE VALLEY OF ST. MARTIN; INCLUDING THOSE OF CLUSONE, PEROUSE, AND PRAGELAS. The village of St. Germain, as seen in the accompanying plate,* occupies a slight undulation on the right bank of the Clusone, which here descends in a copious flood, and in the present day forms the " Rubicon " between the Waldenses and their Catholic neighbours. In former times, however, the Protestants had settlements along the whole valley of Pragelas ; and it is well known, that, if lefl to the freedom of conscience, a great portion of their successors would now adopt the primitive doctrines of the Waldensian church. But, on this point, the legislative enactments are too explicit to be misunder- stood, too strong to be slighted, and too terrible in their denunciations to be openly braved. But of this we have already spoken, and may again advert to it in another place. St. Germain is advantageously situated in point of soil and climate. Along the base of the hills by which it is flanked on the west, corn, wine, and fruit are produced in abundance. Tlie same spirit of industi-y which distinguishes the communes through which we have just passed, is here evinced under the like pleasing forms; but the village presents nothing of sufficient interest to call for particular desci-iption. Its humble temple, how- ever, will repay the stranger for a visit; and when he quits its threshold, the records of other days will rise upon his memory in renovated freshness. St. Germain occupies no inconsiderable portion in the history of those wars, the violence of which was excused by a pretended zeal for religion — a zeal which too often impelled its blinded votaries to the perpetration of cruelties to which the readers of a more enlightened age attach reluctant credence. One instance we may here introduce in illustration of the fact: — In the year 1560, the venerable fathers belonging to the adjacent monastery of Pignerol were exceedingly desirous of getting into their power the worthy pastor of St. Germain. But to do so by force would have been attended with some risk ; they resorted, therefore, to stratagem, and succeeded in bribing a person of his acquaintance to betray him into their hands. True to his engagement, * The drawing is taken from the Pignerol si Je of the river, induding the picturesque wooden bridge, shortly to Ije replaced by another of stone, preparations for which were making hist autumn. Excellent quarries of granite in immediate contact, afford abundant materials for this pur])Ose. THE WALDENSES. this unprincipled individual called one morning upon the pastor, and with his story ready concocted, stated that his assistance was immediately wanted by some person in distress. At this appeal to his christian charity, the good man came instantly forward ; but the moment he did so, and met the eyes of his guest, the embarrassment of the latter betrayed his guilty purpose. The truth flashed upon the pastor ; but, seeing the snare into which he had been drawn, he still preserved his self-command, till the traitor, tliiidiing his plan quite suc- cessful, and unwilling to betray himself by any act of unusual vigilance, entered on the pretended subject of his visit. The ambuscade, however, came unex- pectedly in sight ; and with such a prospect before him, the pastor had good reason to fear the worst. Seizing, therefore, a momentary pause in the conversation, he betook himself to flight, but the same instant a shower of bullets wliistled round his head. The report of muskets brought a crowd suddenly to the scene; but when they gathered round their beloved pastor, they found him already bleeding, and severely wounded. Thus circumstanced, the troops employed in so base a service, and headed by their Judas, had little difficulty in binding their prisoner. Some attempt being made for his rescue, several persons of the village, men and women, were also captured, and conducted to the fortress of Pignerol. Their houses were piUaged, the inhabitants maltreated, and the fruits of the expedition, says the narrator — prisoners and plunder — conveyed to the monastery. Here, kept in strict confinement, the pastor was exhorted to renounce his heresy forthwith, or abide the worst consequences. The exhortation was followed by a command — the command with the threat of an ignominious death ; but still the pastor remained unshaken. The monks were mortified by his rejection of their offers ; his fortitude they termed obsti- nacy ; the dispassionate statement of his faith, a tissue of rebellious sentiments against the church of Rome, and his whole conduct in direct defiance of its authority. Under such circumstances, a speedy method presented itself of at least imposing silence on the man they could not convert. They caused a funeral pile to be erected in the square ; but, to give the scene greater effect, and to spare their own dependents the duty of so degrading an office, they compelled the miserable individuals who were carried off' along with their pastor, to bear the faggots that were to consume him. This done, the minister was led from his dungeon to the stake, and bound in the midst of the combus- tibles ; the fire rose fiercely around him, and he died glorying in that he was accounted worthy to suffer for the religion of Christ. In the evening, when the monks passed the pile of ashes for the performance of vespers, the embers, it is said, became suddenly red, as if again fanned into flame by their presence. GRANITE-QUARRY. — PEROUSE. 09 Was this the accusing witness that spoke from the glovWng aslies, and addressed to each tlie awful inquiry — " Where is tliy brother ?" Nearly opposite the ullage of St. Germain, is the famous granite quarry, from which materials are di-awn for all the chief public buildings in the country, and often transported for that purpose to a great distance. It gives employment to many hands, and at the time we passed, exhibited a picture of great activity. Several immense blocks and columns lay ready to be transported to their several destinations — numerous chisels were employed upon others — while the steep face of the rock, " black vrith the miner's blast," and excavated into a variety of chambers, showed the busy groups employed on the work — here separating the colossal pillar from its native mass — there rendiiig that mass asunder by the power of art, and lowering the huge fragments thus dislodged to the base. There is hardly, perhaps, a more interesting or convincing proof of the powers with which man has been invested by modern invention, than the manner in which these powers are here exercised, and the facility with which he subdues to his purpose one of the most imtractable substances in nature. The solid rock is rent at his touch — split into fragments— and his art made to exhibit those phenomena wliich tlie ancients would have regarded as the terrible effects of lightnmg and thunder, such as they themselves could only accomplish by the tedious process of manual labour. From this point to the village of Perouse, we proceed along the spacious military road communicating between France and Piedmont, by the fort of Fenestrelle. This route became the great medium of intercourse between the two frontiers during the time Pignerol remained in possession of Louis XIV., and the line of march by which the troops under Catinat and Lesdiguieres uaade their descent into Piedmont. By this defile Caesar is supposed to have effected his expedition into ancient Gaul. At the present moment, it is almost exclusively used in the upper Valley as a mere line to connect the fort with Pignerol. The scenery along the river is bold and rugged, particularly on the right bank, but variegated with patches of cultivation, crowned with straggling forests, and enlivened with cottages, wliich appear as if mere projections of the natural rocks, which, for so many ages, have been the refuge of their inhabitants. These heights form the modern frontier of the Waldenses to the east, and, rising from the river's channel in beautiful gradation, fade away at last into the Cottian Alps. Numerous traces of recent inundations, embankments broken do\Mi, bridges swept av/ay, corn fields destroyed, and damage done to the road, showed with what impetuosity the lateral torrents rush at times into their principal channel, the Clusone. In situations like this, territory is held on a very imcer- 70 THE WALDENSES. tain tenure. Surrounded by so many destructive agents, it requires to be watched like a city exposed to the constant danger of an assault ; for — " While the peasant Bleeps — Dreaming of golden harvests — in a night, Down from tlie hills a rushing tempest sweeps His ripened field ; there leaves the dismal blight Of barren sand— ploughed up, and piled in heaps Upon the scene !" On the right of the road, occupying a gentle swell in the acclivity, is a handsome villa, the summer residence of a family of distinction. Its lofty cupola, rising above the building like that of a consecrated edifice, renders it conspicuous in the landscape. The village of Perouse is announced by its church and tower, built on an abrupt, elevated ridge, and commanding the approach, like a military post of observation. The soimd of its bells, as we advanced, was a sorrowful attempt at the science of tintinnabuUsm — nothing could have been less inviting — a satire upon all " sacred melodies." But the cause was soon explained ; the metal had been cracked by over-exertion in some former festival; and now, instead of the fine full-toned bell of other days, had degenerated, if we may use so homely a comparison, into that of a " pestle-and-mortar harmony." In former times a strong castle defended this pass, and kept a jealous eye upon the adjacent Valleys. Tliis has been long superseded by other meajis of security, and the pass more effectually watched by the garrison of Fenestrelle. This vast fortress closes the extremity of Val-Pragelas, and serves the double purpose of a military stronghold, and a state prison. It is considered impreg- nable ; and, wMe well calculated to arrest the progress of a hostile army, takes cognizance of the most humble pedestrian. The fear of having its fortifica- tions committed to paper by any rash peripatetic of the Arts, occasions strict vigilance. A crayon and portfolio in hand are almost as fatal to the bearer as if he had arrived to plant a mortar-battery in its face. But to Fenestrelle and Val-Pragelas we may again advert ; and in the mean time the reader will observe a perfect resemblance to that alpine citadel in the accompanying drawing by Mr. Bartlett, whose crayon had the good fortune to escape the cannon of the fort.* Speaking of the primitive simplicity which characterises the inhabitants of the romantic valley of St. Martin, a native writerf has the following passage :— " Tlie * He was challenged, however, \>j the sentinel, and conducted into the presence of the officer, but, after a strict scrutiny and certain costs paid to the veteran who conducted him, allowed to resume his journey. + J. Bresse, Hist, des Vaudois. PROSELYTISM. — ANECDOTE. 71 authors of poems and romances, in giving ilieir enchanting descriptions of pastoral life, have excited a feeling of deep regret in sensitive minds that the originals of their pictures are no vi^here to be found. But I can solace those friends of innocence and virtue by showing them where they may really find what they have vainly sought after in other parts of the world ; and that asylum of innocence is no other than the Valley of St. Martin. There may be seen shepherdesses, in every sense of the word, as amiable and interesting as the heroines of romance. If the delightful author of Estelle and Galatee," he continues, " had lived among them as I have done, he might have added many a lively tint to his portraits — and these the more charming as being real tran- scripts from nature and truth." ..." Imagine," he adds, " virtue vsdthout vanity or pretension— grace without frivolity — and amiability without coquetry, and these set off by that true modesty which their simple habits inspire— and you have a genuine picture of our Vaudois heroines. Had I been bom a poet," he concludes, " these should have formed my theme." Having spoken in a preceding page of the system of proselytism as sanctioned by the laws of the country, we annex the following anecdote as illustrative of the fact.* A little girl, the daughter of Vaudois parents in this Valley, and brought up under their eye till seven years old, had been allowed to associate familiarly with the children of their Catholic neighbours. She was tempted, however, says our authority, even at this early age, by various allure- ments, to renoimce her baptism; and, occasionally, serious arguments took place on the subject between the priest and those engaged to make converts of Vaudois children. The child was clever, and having been well grounded by her pastor in the principles of the Vaudois creed, resisted for a long time the solicitations employed to entrap her infant mind, and concealed from her mother the promise which had been extorted from her, " not to divulge any thing that had been said to her by the priest and her playmates." But, at length, terrified by the threats of eternal punishment by which they endeavoured to accelerate her conversion, she revealed the whole to her mother. A quarrel between the opposite parents was the consequence, and the girl was removed to the house of a pastor at some distance, who was a relation, and here she remained for some time in apparent security. At the end of the vintage, however, a supper was given in the field, and the child permitted to enjoy herself with the rest of the family. But when the rural merriment was about to termi- nate, and the party to disperse, twenty or thirty armed men suddenly rushed into the circle, and forcibly carried her off. The only explanation ever given * Histor. Details, p. 73. 72 THE WALDENSES. was, that the girl had voluntarily embraced the Catholic faith, and therefore belonged to other guardians. This armed force, as it afterwards appeared, acted luider the sanction of the bishop of Pignerol. Petitions were presented by the bereaved parents, but in vain ; they remained unread or disregarded, and it was not till seven years afterwards that the father was at last informed that liis daughter was in a convent at Novara. When old enough, she became a novitiate, subsequently a nun, and was then permitted to vvrite to her mother ; her letters, however, evinced sufficient evidence that they were not of her o%vn dictation. In 1805, when she must have been upwards of twenty years of age, the abbess wrote to say that she had been carried off by fever. But it was suspected she was only removed at that time to some other convent, lest she should have been restored by means of the French, who were then masters of the country, and the avowed friends of the Waldenses. The mother was so overcome by the bereavement that she could never speak of it without tears. It continued to prey upon her mind, till her health being gradually undermined, she dropt into a consumption, and died soon after her daughter's untimely fate was announced. The unhappy girl, it is stated by the same authority, had an advantageous offer of marriage during her novitiate, from a young Catholic nobleman of good fortune, but on her refusing to accept him for her husband, no alternative was left but to take the veil. It is remarkable, that while this system of violence is resorted to by the Catholic clergy, the Vaudois pastors are liable to the most severe penalties for making a convert, while the convert himself may, by the existing laws, (1825,) be brought to the stake.* But, in the midst of dangers and sacrifices which both pastor and proselyte might sin-ink to encounter, it is pleasing to record such acts of christian intrepidity as the following. A pastor on the right bank of the Clusone having made some healthy impression on the mind of a Catholic subject on the opposite side, and finding him sensibly touched by his exhor- tations from the pulpit, resolved to profit by the circumstance, and bring his half converted hearer to a thorough conviction. For this purpose they met for some time by concert ; but on the evening, or rather midnight — their usual hour of interview — when the good intention was expected to reach its full accomplishment, and the pastor to add one more name to his flock, a sudden storm in the Alps had swollen the torrent of the Clusone to such magnitude that all possibility of intercourse was apparently cut off, and the river, leaving its channel, deluged the neighbouring fields. The pastor, however, had promised to keep the meeting, and must redeem his pledge at every risk. . Gilly. POMARET. — PEYRAN. 73 To have shrunk back at this critical moment, would have belied his confidence in that Being, who, it might be supposed, had sent this storm for the trial of his faith, and could deliver his servant who did not sacrifice the sense of duty to that of personal safety. Hastening to the spot, he plunged resolutely into the torrent, and for some time was borne downward with a force which no skill or effort could counteract. But, with a strength sufficient for the struggle, and a courage upheld by a good conscience, he stemmed the surge, and at length landed on the forbidden shore. Tliis heroic act, as it may be imagined, contributed not a little to exalt him in the estimation of his convert. " He could not be otherwise than sincere," said he, " who had encountered so much personal hazard to evince that sin- cerity ; nor could he be otherwise than under the special protection of Heaven, who had thus cheerfully exposed his life in its service, and escaped destruction." Before dawn, the confirmation of his neophyte was complete ; and the pastor, again commending liis convert to God, and committing himself to the stream, reached his own hearth by sunrise.* PoMARET, the first Protestant settlement in the Yal-St. Martin, and so named, probably, from its orchards, is picturesquely situated at the entrance of the defile. It is washed by the torrent of the Germanasca, and flanked by rocky precipices and \ineyards, which confer a Rhenish character upon the scene. The rugged escarpments which defend it on the north resemble, on various points, the remams of rviined battlements, mantled with vines, sprinkled with patches of cultivation, and thus presenting an aspect of mixed fertility and desolation. The village, distinctly considered, offers little to interest the inquisitive stranger ; but, to the readers of Waldensian controversy, is chiefly remarkable in modei-n times as the parochial residence of Jean Rodolph Peyran, late moderator of the Valleys, whose tomb, in the newly enclosed cemetery, is a never-failing object of attraction. + • The adventure recorded, liowever, was scarcely more fonnid.^ble than what is uniformly encountered during the winter months by several of the Waldensian pastors in the discharge of their ministerial functions^ Take for example the communication between Prali and Rodoret, which the worthy pastor has to keep up durinK the whole winter in preaching to his congregations in both places. But of this hereafter. t The character of this learned and pious minister is thus expressed on the marble slab, within the porch of the church, which commemorates his worth and labours. S. M. JoH.\NNIS R0DOI.PHI L. S. PbYR.VNI, qui post VIT.».M .ll.ICHVM, NON SUI, OMNINO STUDIO.S.\M, OBIIT ANNO SALUTIS MDCCC.fXIU. JKTAT. SUi. LXXJI, EcCtBSLE VaI.LENSIS PrESBYTKR ET MODERATOR; LiTERIS Hl'MANlS KT S.ICRIS APPRIME DOCl'US ; NEQUAOUAM GI.OBIANS NISI IN CKUCE DOM. NOST. J. C. ; IN PATBUM ET RELIGIONEM INTE.MERATA FIDE NOTfS; ANIMO ERGA O.MNES BENEVOLnS ; OPERJBUS INGEND, NON AUTEM PKiMU.S, FEI.I.X. Nr BEXB.MERENTI, CITI VTVO DEKRANT FKRK OUNIA, DEESSBT KTIAM MORTUO TUMWLUS, HOC TANDEM POSITO MAHJIORE CURAVIT ALIBNIGENA. 74 THE WALDENSES. " 'Stablished in faith, the interpreter of Heaven, The intrepid advocate of christian trutli : His days, his nights, to holy vigils given, His age fulfilled the promise of his youth. " Learned, like Paul, but like the apostle, poor ; Pining in health, with many cares perplexed ; But, weaned from this dark world's corrupting store. The Pastor's wealth was treasured in the next." Peyran was a native of the Valleys of Piedmont, where, \vith honour to themselves and advantage to the church, both his father and grandfather had filled the same important office. After completing his studies at the university of Geneva, he returned home and took upon him the duties of pastor in this retired village. In addition to these, his literary labours were prosecuted with unwearied assiduity, in aU of which he discovered a fund of information and diligence of research which were not surpassed by any writer of his day. The extent and variety of profound topics thus embraced, and in every instance illustrated by a mass of erudition,* are subjects of astonishment to all who reflect that the author pursued his studies in this alpine solitude, with none of those advantages which intercourse with society, extensive libraries, or enlightened conversation so readily supply. The worth and abilities of M. Peyran, whilst honourable to the pastors and people with whom he was immediately connected, did not escape the notice of the late governor of the province. His firm attachment to the ancient line of princes of the house of Savoy, evinced his loyalty as a subject; while his zeal as a learned and pious divine rendered him a model for imitation. On one occasion, when passing through the north of Italy, Napoleon, so distin- guished for his acute perception of character, proposed several questions to Peyran on the antiquity and exploits of the Waldenscs— questions to which the Moderator was eminently qualified to reply. • The work, edited by the Rev. Thomas Sims'— consisting of the Nouvelles Lettres sur les Vaudois, by Peyran, or Historical Defence of the Waldenses— affords ample proof of the indefatigable research, im- partial examination, and conclusive evidence with which the learned Moderator lias illustrated his subject. These letters, which present so ample a fund of information, were written on the following occasion :— During the time that Napoleon usurped dominion over Italy, Cardinal Pacca having excited his displeasure, that prelate was confined as a state prisoner in the fortress of Fenestrelle, already mentioned, and within a few miles of the Moderator's residence at Pomaret. Anxious, during his imprisonment, to obtain correct informa- tion respecting the tenets of so remarkable a body of Christians as the Waldenses, a short correspondence seems to have taken place between himself and M. Peyran, and led to the Letters, in which the author under- takes a regular historical defence of the ancient body of Christians over whom he presided.— 5i»n«. M. Sims, Editeur d'une partie de ses ouvrages, et genfreux bienfaiteur de nos Valle'es, qui 1 tombeau. — Muston, liv. i. PEYRAN.— LEGER.- -VILLE SECHE. 75 After an illness endured with exemplary patience, he closed his earthly career at the age of seventy-two, and was attended to the grave, not only by his own flock, but by a great number of his Roman Catholic neighbours, to whom he was endeared by a spirit of christian philanthropy wliich recent circumstances had often called into exercise. When a hostile army, on its march through the valley, threatened to burn the town of Ferouse, Peyran, by prompt and earnest intercession with the French general, obtained his protection for the place, and thus secured from its Catholic inhabitants a well- merited tribute of respect and gratitude.* Speaking of Peyran—" Son carac- tere," says Muston, " se rapprochait beaucoup de celui du celebre Paul-Louis Courier. L'un et I'autre ecrivains pleins de verve et d'orig-inalite, auteurs des pamphlets admirables, et des pages couvertes de science, ils amaient a se qualifier des titres les plus simples. On salt que Courier ne se donnait jamais que celui de Vigneron. Peyran avait, comme lui, cet esprit mordant et caustique, joint a une bonte d'ame peu commune.^f Peyran has been succeeded in the pastoral office of Pomaret by M. Jalla, whose parish comprises the hamlets of Vivian, Aimar Cerissieres, Faure, About, Amfou, and Clots. The church is new, and erected, as already mentioned, by foreign contributions, among which was that of the Emperor Alexander. Continuing to ascend the valley, the next commune deserving of particular observation is Ville Seche, the birth-place of the historian Leger. The village occupies an accUvity on the left bank of the Germanasca, surrounded by Alpine scenery, and participating but sparingly in the productive qualities of tlie neighbouring valley. The vineyards of Pomaret are here succeeded by corn and potatoe fields, which, with the track of mountain pastures adjoining, con- stitute the prmcipal resources of the inhabitants. Of the Leger family several descendants still inhabit the paternal soil. The historian himself thus records the circumstances which made the hour of his birth a presage of the storms and persecutions which assailed him in after life. " I was born at Ville Seiche," ♦ See the work already named. . , . , u- • i • t The Co,«.t Crotti, intendant of the province, was very fond of hie conversation, ana once took him in his carriage to Pignerol, and having introduced him to the episcopal palace, provoked a theological discu-ssion between the Moderator of the Vaudois, and the Roman Catholic bishop of the diocese. . . A military officer of high rank and accompUshments, who prided himself upon the address with which he could discuss most topics heard of Peyran's renown as a controversialist, and sought an opportunity of enteru.g the lists with him The aged pastor was victor at every tilt. At last, the general, determining to try his strength on ground which he considered entirely his own, introduced the prijiciples and science of gunnery. But here, also, he found Peyran equally upon his guard, and confessed with great candour tbat he was more than a match for him-Gillv's " Waldensian Researches,- and " Excursions," in which the reader will find a rich ftuid of anecdote, personal and historical, to which the limited nature of our present work will not allow us to advert more fully. See also, " Authentic Details of the Waldenses." 76 THE -.VALDENSES. says he, " on the second of February, 1615,* during one of the most tremen- dous hurricanes ever remembered, and which imroofed the houses and uprooted the ti'ees. To me that storm was a presage of the furious shocks and tempests which ' the prince of the powers of the air 'f was preparing for my destruction ; and under which I had certainly sunk, had not my house been built and my hopes firmly established on the Rock of Ages, which neither the winds can shake nor the torrents undermine." On perusing this passage of Leger, the reader \vill observe an evident allusion to the repeated attempts made to assassinate him. Near the Pont-de-la-Tour, — a wild pass in our ascent from Pomaret, — his enemies, on more than one occasion, lay in ambush to accomplish the diabolical design. But, by the mercy of an overruling Providence, Leger was delivered from their hands, and reserved as a recording witness of that exter- minating \'iolence to which his unhappy countrjanen were afterwards exposed. The Church of Ville Seche, under the pastoral care of M. Rostaing, sen., includes the population of nine or ten adjoining hamlets — namely, the communes of St. Martin, Bovil, and Traverse, on one hand, and those of Fact, Serres, and' Rioclaret, on the other. During the troubles of 1560, the hamlet of Rioclaret was much harassed by its feudal lords, Charles and Bonif.ice de Truchet, whose hostility to the Waldenses was evinced by secret machinations and open violence. On one occasion, while the latter were assembled at worship, Charles Truchet, heading a strong detachment of armed accomplices, directed his steps towards the church, in hopes of surprising the congregation,, and obtaining violent possession of the pastor. To prevent suspicion, however, he sent on before him certain renegades, who pretended to resort thither from motives of piety, but whose instructions were to surround the preacher as closely as possible, so as to prevent the possibility of escape. This being accomplished, and while the service of the day was going forward, Truchet arrived in front of the church. At a given signal, one of the traitors, a powerfril man, threw himself upon the pastor, M. Fran9ois, with the intention of securing him as his prisoner : but the latter, who was also of robust frame, made a sudden effort, and disengaged his arm from the traitor's grasp. Roused to indignation by the insult — doubly aggravated by the circumstances of time and place — and seeing the danger which thus menaced the sacred person of their minister, the congregation, though totallj' unarmed, rushed «pon the offenders. Laying hold of whatever feU in their way, they made such head against those violators of the sanctuary, that the pastor was speedily rescued, and Truchet and his troops driven in shame and discomfiture from the scene of their unhallowed enterprise. ' :,eger, P. II. c. 26. p. ,'!.59.-id. 368-9. + Ejhesians, li. -2. SUFFERINGS OF THE. VAUDOIS. DEFEAT OF TRUCHET. 77 The leader himself, Charles Triichet,* had nearly fallen a victim to the plot he had so artfully devised. He was an experienced soldier, tall, of athletic proportions, and completely armed ; but, in the violence with which he pushed his adventure, a villager, regardless of the death which seemed to await hun, sprang upon the desperate noble, and, pinning him against the trunk of a tree, might there have strangled him. But, for the respect due to his quality as seigneur of the place, he was, by an act of ill-merited courtesy, suffered to depart. Far, however, fi-om acknowledging this generous treatment, his hatred of the Waldenses was evinced by renewed persecutions, which were only suspended by the payment of sixteen liundredf crowiis — an immense sum to the oppressed and already impoverished families. But no sooner was the money received, than, in open violation of the conditions solemnly ratified, Truchet resumed his former course of unmitigated oppression. On the second of April, the same year, he arrived with an army, which he had obtained per- mission to levy at Nice, and began the work of devastation at the first houses in Ms route. The inhabitants, stripped of all their property, could only save their lives by flying to the mountains, where many of them, without clothing, had only the dreadfid alternative left of falling by the sword, if they returned, or, if they remained, of perishing among the snows. They were pursued through the mountain forests, and wherever seen were fired upon. The band of plun- derers, when fatigued with the exercise of their sanguinary orders, returned to the deserted homes of the fugitives, and there divided the spoil and indulged in riotous excess. Hunted from every hospitable corner of the Valley, and exposed to the extremes of cold and hunger — hardships which were rendered doubly poignant by agony of mind, and the exhausting effects of that sleej^less terror which followed them into every recess — their sufferings were such as words cannot give utterance to. A minister, and another individual belonging to the \illage of St. Martin, having been taken prisoners during this lawless inroad, were conducted before the monks of the abbey of Pignerol, and there burnt at the stake. Moved with the most lively sympathy for the wretched fate of the survivors, who were still in hiding among the mountains, and exhorted by the pastors to espouse their cause, about four hunched of their friends and relations from Val-Clusone set out for that purpose. This detachment was headed by the pastor Martin, who. * " Charles Tni'set, or Truchet, lord of a Certain town callel Rirclaret, a man of great strength, most daring, and not only exercised in arms from his very cliildhood, bu! one generally reputed most utout in action."— See Lentul. Neapolitan. Cambridge MSS. t Muston, i. 25; but. according to others, sixteen thousand crowns. Scipio Lentulus. Gilly, Append. viL lb THE WALDENSES. like " Moses leading his army of Hebrews in the desert," halted at intervals, and falling on his knees in front of his troop, invoked the blessmg of Heaven on their fraternal enterprise. Continuing their march, they came at length in sight of the depredators. The conflict commenced. The force under Truchet, although strongly posted, and prepared for the attack, were completely routed,* and the wi-etched inhabitants restored to their desolate hearths. f Maneille, like the hamlet of Ville Seche, is situated on a mountain slope, and embosomed in scenery still more alpine in character and productions than the tract through which we have already proceeded. The chain of mountains behind divides it from the Val-Pragelas. Nearly opposite is the Rocca-Bianca, or white rock, a mountain so named from its fine white marble, conspicuous at a great distance. This country abounds in excellent marble, most of which, in closeness of grain and brilliancy of colour, will bear comparison with that of Paros, or Carrara ; but the great difficulty of transport precludes almost the possibility of working the quarries to advantage. Within the last two years, however, the attempt to make tliese treasures available, has been resumed in the Valleys, J and with the prospect of rendering the enterprise successful. In the same locality is a quarry of talc, jnerre douce, so called on accoiuit of its oleaginous feel, and friable consistence. It furnishes, nevertheless, blocks, extremely compact and durable, out of which the iidiabitants form excellent kitchen utensils. § • GiJles, cli. A'li \']> '■'''■ ' ', 'riiti.uii liist. torn. ii. Muston, liv. i. t TrucliL't- !■ M I i M.-isting of about six hundred men, on that side of the mountain where it was littk' 1 III Lome, advanced with his men to the top of a mountain where he overlooked tliL . ,:..., i; li.iC.i, i.; \, ..l^lu.i: lis. This observed, the latter, pouring out prayers before the Lord — for they had always a uiiiusLer oi the gospel along with them — marched courageously towards the enemy, who, in full anticipation of an easy victory, came down with much apparent mirth to receive them. As soon, however, as the main body w.'is engaged, six Vaudois slingers, by a passage known only to themselves, gained immediate possession of the crest of the mountain, which the enemy, believing it to be inaccessible from any other point, had just abandoned. Thus, taking the invaders on the rear, and rushing domi upon them with irresistible impetuosity, their strength was broken and paralysed, while that of tlie Waldenses became invin- cible. At this critical moment, the auxiliary force appearing in full march toivards the scene of conflict, the enemy instantly fled ; but the snow at this time being nearly two feet deep, and the defiles intricate and deceitful, part, of the fugitives fell headlong over the rocks, and part were skughtered by the pursuers. With respect to Truchet, having had his leg broken in the milie by a stone, he was led in this disabled state between two of his soldiers ; but the victors pressing hard upon them, and having received a second womid fiom a sling, he was deserted by his soldiers, and finally despatched with his own sword by a peasant. — See the work above quoted ; also. Append, vii. Gill;/. Cambridge MSS. Vol. P. i " Si nous avons encore le bonheur que vous honoriez notre pays d'une visite, et comme vous vous inti?ressez aux particularit^s d'histoire naturelle, nous pourrions visiter ensemble les carrieres de marbre noui^ellement inises en ceuvre, dans la vallie de St. Martin, et comme notre climat participe par sa nature aux climats chauds, temp^r^s, et froids, on poiu-rait dans les memes courses, trouver des plantes appartenantes a ces ditferents climats," &c. iic.— Extract from a Letter addressed to the Author. Aw/. 1836. § '■ Ayant pris un jour quelques fragmens d'un pared vase qui avail subi Taction du feu, je les trouvai rem- plis de crlstallisations pentae'driques, noires et bnuies, comme le pyroxene et la tourmaline. Je ne sais pas ai MACEL. — M. TRON. — THE BALSILLE. 79 In a survey of these Valleys, however, no object calls forth so many stirrinsj recollections in the stranger's mind as the Balsille — a rock towering up m the narrow valley of Macel, and immortalized by the sufferings and triumphs of the Waldensian exiles. The approach to this natural fortress is rugged and picturesque. After descending into the valley by a wild alpine track, we enter a gorge, where there is hai'dly space left by nature for constructing a path. For some distance, indeed, it is formed chiefly by planks of timber, similar to those employed, for the like pm-pose, in various parts of Switzerland. To this portion of the way succeeds a deep wooded defile, where a handful of men stationed among the rocks might arrest the progress of an army. Emerging from this pass, the valley opens on a mountain hamlet — Macel, another Protestant settlement ; soon after which the unusual feature of a large handsome house presents itself as a contrast in this alpine region. This is the residence of a gentleman whose hospitality to strangers, who make annual pilgrimages through this pass, merits every acknowledgment. Beyond this, the Balsille takes possession of the scene, and fiUs the mind with those marvellous incidents in its history on which it is impossible for the reader of Waldensian heroism to reflect without emotion. It consists of a conical mass of rocks, rising at the angle where two valleys unite — namely, that of the Germanasca, terminating in the Col-du-Pis ; and another, traversed by a torrent which descends from Mount Guignevert. Thus situated, it is of diflicult access from aU but one point, which is that just above the small village of Balsille, where a school has been lately erected — another gratifying monument to the philanthropic exertions of Colonel Beckwith, and other friends of the Waldenses. The approach from this village is very steep, and when protected by strong barricades, must have presented difliculties of the most formidable character. The mountain has some- thing very remarkable in its general appearance, and such as readily distinguishes it fi-om all others. It consists of several precipices, rising successively above each other, and fringed with straggling pine-trees. The vestiges of its intrench- ments, however, are either very imperfect, or such as can only be detected by minute inspection. The " barricades," and every thing in this form that could arrest a common observer, have disappeared; but their memory, like that of their defenders, is imperishable. The rock called the chateau, or castle of the Balsille, is occupied by only two or three huts, and commands the narrow Valley of the Germanasca. From the village, the Col-du-Pis is seen to advantage ; and ce phenomene," adds M. Muston, " se fait remarquer dans toutes les pierrea semblables, qui ont €t€ soumisea a une grande chaleur."— Liv. i. p. 23. Talc nearly resembles mica in appearance ; the plates are flexible, but not clastic. It is much softer than mica, and ?wt fusible ; hence its use in the manner described. 80 THE WALDENSES. on the side of the distant mountain, a beautiful cascade throws an animated feature into the landscape.* After a casual survey of this celebrated Rock, the space appears so confined, and disproportionate to the great number of troops, French and Piedmontese, brought together for its reduction, that some degree of scepticism is apt to arise in the spectator's mind as to the actual amount of that force. But the records on this subject are supported by authorities which it would be rash to impugn, and impossible to controvert. That so small a body of men, ill-pro- vided with all that could be considered indispensable for successful resistance, should so long have held at bay the combined forces of France and Piedmont, has been treated by some as an extravagant fiction. But that they did so — that a band of exiles, entrenched behind barricades on these rugged escarpments, not only maintained their post like an impregnable citadel, but often repulsed the besiegers at the point of the sword, are facts too well established, by the existing records of those who shared in the struggles, to be shaken by any discordant testimony. Here, during a whole winter, these exiles prolonged their existence in a manner wliicli approaches the very extreme of human suffering and privation. Sheltered in huts excavated in the rocks — mounting guard — labouring at the fortifications — they were supported by the scanty supply of wheat gathered with great difficulty from under deep snow, which was thus preserved for their support, the unharvested products of the field. This was often their only storehouse, and, as they felt and believed, a special inter- position of Divine Providence in their favour. For, had not winter interrupted the regular process of reaping, the exiles could not have maintained their position in the Balsille, but must have fallen victims to famine, disease, or the sword. But He who provided manna in the desert for the Hebrews, provided a harvest in winter for the persecuted Waldenses. In digging the ground around this hardly contested spot, broken implements of war are often discovered — relics of that disastrous conflict in which they were so unhappily employed. But, as we shall have to notice the Balsille more fully in a future portion of the work, we now proceed to other features intimately connected with the subject. Here, as in Switzerland, the mountain districts, which are exclusively used for pasture, are termed alps; and here the breeding of cattle and the produce of the dairy are the principal sources of rural wealth. The Alp of * Bresse compares it to the Pizevache in tlie Vallais, (See Switzerland Illustrated ; ) but the latter preci- pitates itself in greater volume. That in the Valley of Macel is particularly striking, from its closing the vista towards the Col-du-Pis. MANEILLE. --rRALI. SI Guignevert, wliich immediately borders the gorge of the BalsiDe, is of this description. Hither, as in other parts of the Valleys, the flocks aaid herds are conducted as soon as the summer verdure replaces the snow, and pastured till the sj-mptoms of winter again usurp the scene, and compel them to descend by degrees to those sheltered spots which enjoy a longer summer. During this period of the year, the scene presented on these elevated pasture-lands is highly interesting, and exhibits a picture of human life which an inhabitant of the city can hardly imagme. " Far o'er the steep the chalet glances dim. Through clouds that gather on the glacier's rim ■ And here the cataracts—in maniac wrath. And share of foam — ploughs up its furious path But, drained from fountains of eternal snow. Converts to flowers the verdant vale below." Rodoret, like Macel, both of which formerly belonged to the parochial district of JManeille, has now its o\to pastor,* and enjoys, in conuiion with its neighbours, all those spiritual means of instruction for which the Waldenses have made so many and severe sacrifices. The village is situated in the centre of a small valley, closed by Fontaine, another hamlet ; and in the opposite direction are those of Arnauds, Belassa, and a fine cascade, which M. Muston observes, resembles that of Tourtemagne, in the road to Brigg, in the Vallais. In the intervening space between the BalsiUe and Rodoret, several villages give an air of cheerfulness to this alpine landscape— each with some tradition of former times: but of these, the limits of our present work preclude any detailed account. The scenery of the Val-St. Martin changes frequently and rapidly from the most harsh and rugged aspect to that of the most attractive beauty. Stupen- dous clifis and terrific precipices give place to verdant and flowery spots ; and a turn of the mountain path by the torrent side would bring us out of a deep cleft of rock, where our feet were bruised by the stones, to a bank of lavender, or a green plateau of herby grass, soft as a carpet ; or to a sunny nook, where the little property of corn land is cultivated, like the patriarchal inheritances of the ancient tribes of Israel, by father and son fi-om generation to generation. The Germanasca, whose waters we have followed, was of the same changing character. The deafening roar of its flood almost stunned us in some places ; and soon afterwards we came to a deep, still pool, of azui-e blue, where it seemed * A; this time, however, the church of Rodoret wao vacant ; thai o; Macel was under tlie pastoral chaigi' ot M. Jaila, jun 8SJ THE WALDEISSES. to rest for a while before it resumed its impetuous course, and where we felt as if we could be tempted to sit for hours with Izaak Walton's Angler, or Sir Humphrey Davy's Salraonia, in our hands, and there enjoy the repose of the scene.* The town of Prali, which borders on the French territory, is the only remaining settlement in the Val-St. Martin which demands particular notice. The country through which the traveller reaches this from Rodoret, presents a succession of pine-clad hills, the timber of which is of gigantic proportions, and, with better means of transport, would yield a noble revenue to the country. f The district around Prali is little favourable to the labours of agriculture. Its climate is keen in proportion to its elevation ; the produce, consequently, is limited to a little corn — chiefly rye — potatoes, and the more ordinary garden vegetables; but milk and honey, the poetical symbols of plenty, are abundant.^ " Here, in those flowery pastures where the bee. Alights with every breeze, and banquets free ; And summer, in her brief profusion, throws On rock and dell the perfume of the rose." The commune of Prali has had its full share in those disasters by which, in former times, the spirit of persecution manifested itself in every district of the Valleys. Early in the summer of 1488, with the view of taking the inhabitants by surprise, and avoiding the risk of open rencontre, about seven hundred Catholics descended, says Gilles, like a torrent fi-om the north-west frontier, and swept on towards the small town of Pommiers. Here, however, the inhabitants, having narrowly watched their movements, were prepared to give them a wann reception ; and falling upon them sword in hand, left only one man to record their enterprise. This individual, the standard-bearer of his party, having escaped during the milee, threw himself into a torrent, the channel of which he followed under a mass of snow, not yet melted, and there remained concealed, till cold and hunger forcing liim from his miserable retreat, he threw himself on the mercy of the people. This obtained, he was • Gilly, Waldejis. Research, pp. 496-7. t " Ses melezes, du cote du Julien, ofFrent sur leur tronc de petites mousses, en bouquets, d'un jaune dor admi- rable. II y en a d'autres, plus developp&s, qui pendent a leurs branches, en tongues barbes de capncin, noires, grises, et verdatres; lorsqu'elles sontmouille'es, elles prennent toute cette derniere couleur."— AfKs(ial ne venait pas d'eitx, mais d'une cause majeure qui les entrainait forciment, et a laquelle il leur eut ete impossible de resister." viii. " Si les Vaudois du 212 THE WALDENSES. Piemont ont ete exposes a des persecutions, ce n'a ete que par la reaction d'tme influence etrangere." 23. " Chaque fois que nos Souverains, les Dues de Savoie, daignerent ecouter les apologies que leurs sujets Vaudois leur presenterent a la suite de quelque Edit defavorable Ton vit toujours, ou que la religion des Dues avait ete surprise, ou que des raisons politiques les avaient contraints, malgre eux, de maltraiter cepeuple notoire- ment soumis aux lois, fidele, brave, moral, et dont I'unique tort etait de perseverer dans la Foi Evangelique, dont il avait herite de ses peres." Pp. 23, 24. " Vers I'an 1534, on les poursuivit de nouveau comme heretiques." ..." Heureuse- ment, le Due Charles III, qui ne se pretait qu'avec repugnance a ces violences finit par les arreter.". . . ." II compta avec raison sur la bravoure et la fidelite de ses sujets Vaudois, pour s'opposer au Monarque Fran^ais, (Fran9ois I,) leur ennemi declare." 26-7. " Emakuel-Philibert, ainsi que la Duchesse (sreur de Henri II de France) fut d'ahord tres favorable aux Vaudois." 28. " Des que le Due apprit I'affreuse tiotivelle des massacres de la Saint- Barthelemy, il en eut horreur ; et ne vit plus dans les Reformes, que d'innocentes victimes de la haine et de Vambition ! II defendit a Castrocaro toute violence envers ses sujets Vaudois, et permit meme a. ceux de recevoir et d'accueillir leurs malheureux freres de France persecutes." 31-2. " Charles-Emanuel I reconnut la valeur et la fidelite de ses sujets Vaudois ; et pour recompenser leurs utiles services, il confirma leurs anciens privileges." 32. " Puis Victor-Amedee I, son fils, quoique obsede successivement par les ennemis des Vaudois, ne laissa pas de renouveler les privileges des habitans des Vallees : Charles- Emanuel II imita merac son pere et son ai'eul, par des edits que son equite naturelle lui inspirait." 34. " 1686. Louis XIV en chassant les protestants de son royaume, invita le Due VieioR- Amedee II a ' I'imiter envers ses sujets des Vallees.' L'ascendant du Monarque Fran9ais etait si prononce, q\i'i?iviter le due, c'etait lui ordonner. La cour de Turin fit comprendre (aux representation des L. Cant. Evang. de la Suisse), que ' le mal etait sans remede, et qu'on nefaisait en Piemont qu'obeir aux ordres de Versailles' " 37. " 1694. Le Due Victor-Amedee incorpora les Vaudois (exiles) dans ses propres troupes, les assurant de sa bienveillance et de sa protection: par son Edit il declara franchement ne les avoir persecutes, que farce quit y avait ete force par une Puissance etrangere." 41 . (See a7ite, p. 169, the original words). . ." Comme les Fran^ais assiegeaient meme sa capitale, Le Due Victor-Amedee II retira pendant quelque temps chez les Vaudois, qui lui servirent, en quelque sort, de gardes du corps: il put done voir de ses propres yeux combien ils lui etaient devoues, et 6taient prets a verser leur sang pour son service." 44. (See this incident fully related, p. 51.) " 1730. La Cour de France reclamait I'expulsion des Protestans Fran^ais, qui s'etaient refugies dans les Vallees, et le Pupe Clement XII menacjait de revoquer un concordat avantageux a la cour de Turin ' si elle ne sevissait contre les relaps et les renegats :' en sorte que potir satisfaire aux deux Puissances le Roi VieTOR-AMEDEE II promulga TEdit qui occasionna de nouveaux bannissemens." 48. [It is in this manner that these truly loyal subjects inculcate the firm belief that their sovereigns have never persecuted them, unless from some unavoidable necessity.] " De 1792 a 1798. S. A. R. Le Due d'Aoste (depuis le Roi, Victor-Emanuel) habita THE CREED OF THE 'WALDENSES. 213 quelque temps paimi les Vaudois, et fut nieme charge par S. 31. Viclor-Amedee II, son Pere, ' de lew temoigner piibliquement sa satisfaction et sa royale bienveillaiwe.' " 50. [This fact is a sufficient answei- to those who have charged the Waldenses with encou- raging revolutionary principles.] " Les evenements arrives en Piemont en 1821, et la tranquillite dont jouira les Vallees, attestent la moralite et la fidelite du caractere des Vaudois. L'asile sur que trouva parmi eux un ministre d'etat, dans ces circonstances critiques, et Vamour que leur portait S. M. feu Victor-Emanuel, sont des teinoignages flatteurs qui n'auront pas peu contribue a incliner le Roi Charles-Felix a leur etre aussi favorable." 52. Our limits prevent us from enlarging on this subject ; and we have only to add, that the kindness of his present Majesty, Charles Albert,* has exceeded that of all his pre- decessors. And this we trust is the sure omen of happier days for the Waldenses. THE CONFESSION OF FAITH. (FESSION DE FOI DES EGLISES Nous CROYONS, I. Qu'il y a un seul Dieu, qui est une Essence spirituelle, eternelle, infinie, toute sage, toute misericordieuse, et toute juste; en un mot, toute parfaite ; et qu'il y a Trois Personnes en cette seule et simple Essence, le Pere, le Fils, et le Saint-Esprit. II. Que ce Dieu s'est manifests aux hommes par ses oeuvres, tant de la Creation que de la Providence, et par sa Parole revelee au commencement par oracles en diverses sortes, puis redigee par ecrit dans les Livres qu'on appelle I'Ecriture-Sainte. III. Qu'il faut recevoir, comme nous recevons, cette Sainte Ecriture pour Divine et Canonique, c'est-a-dire pour regie de notre foi et de notre vie, et qu'elle est contenue pleinement dans les livres de 1' Ancien et du Nouveau Testament : que dans I'Ancien Testament doivent etre compris seulement les livres que Dieu a comniis a I'Eglise Judaique, et qu'elle a toujours approuves ou reconnus pour divins, assavoir : les cinq Livres de Moise, Josue, les Juges, Ruth, le I. et II. de Samuel, le I. et II. des Rois, le I. et II. des Croniques ou Paralipomenes, le I. d'Esdras, Nehemie, Esther, Job, les Psaumes, les Proverbes de Salomon, I'Ecclesiaste, le Cantique des Cantiques, les quatre grands Prophetes, et les douze petits ; et dans le Nouveau Testament, les quatre Evangiles, les Actes des Apotres, les quatorze Epitres de Saint Paul, une de Saint Jaques, deux de Saint Pierre, trois de Saint Jean, une de Saint Jude, et I'Apocalypse. I'V. Que nous reconnoisons la divinite de ces Livres sacres, non-seulement par le * A very recent and most pleasing trait of royal beneficence was evinced by the King in behalf of a Wal- densian officer, who died in garrison at Aorte. In this case, his majesty, with a magnanimous disregard of ancient precedent, not only granted to the deceased soldier the privilege of a grave among his Protestant kindred, but settled a pension upon his disconsolate widow. 3 I gl4 CONFESSION DE FOI temoignage de I'Eglise, mais principalement par I'eternelle et indubitable verite de la doctrine qui y est contenue ; par I'excellence, la sublimite et la ma.jest6 toute divine qui y paroit ; et par I'operation du Saint-Esprit, qui nous fait reeevoir avec deference le temoignage que I'Eglise nous en rend, qui ouvre nous yeux pour decouvrir les rayons de lumiere celeste qui 6clatent dans I'Ecriture, et rectifie notre gout pour discerner cette viande par la saveur divine qu'elle a. V. Que Dieu a fait toutes choses de rien, par sa Volonte toute libre, et par la puissance de sa Parole. VI. Qu'il les conduit et gouverne toutes par sa Providence, ordonnant et adressaut tout ce qui arrive au monde, sans qu'il soit pourtant ni auteur ni cause du mal que les creatures font, ou que la coulpe lui en puisse ou doive en aucune fa^on etre iniputee. VII. Que les Anges ayant ete crees purs et saints, il y en a qui sont tombes dans une corruption et perdition irreparable, mais que les autres ont persevere par un effet de la bonje Divine qui les a soutenus et confirmes. VIII. Que Thomme qui avoit ete cree pur et saint, a I'image de Dieu, s'est prive, par sa faute, de cet etat bienheureux, donnant ses assentiments aux discours captieux du Demon. IX. Que I'homrae a perdu, par sa transgression, la justice et la saintete qu'il avoit revues, encourant, avec I'indignation de Dieu, la mort et la captivite sous la puissance de celui qui a I'empire de la mort, assavoir le Daible ; a ce point que son franc arbitre est devenu serf et esclave du peche, tellement que de nature tous les hommes, et Juifs et Gentils, sont enfans d'ire (ou de colere), tous morts en leurs fautes et peches, et par consequent incapables d'pvoir un bon mouveraent pour le salut, ni nieme former aucune bonne pensee sans la Gr^ce ; toutes leurs imaginations et pensees n'etant que mal en tout temps. X. Que toute la posterite d'Adam est coupable en lui de sa desobeissance, infectee de corruption, et tombee dans la meme calamite, jusqu'aux petits enfans des le ventre de leur mere, d'oii vient le nom de peche originel. XI. Que Dieu retire de cette corruption et condamnation les personnes qu'il a elues par sa misericorde en son Fils J6sus-Christ, y laissant les autres par un droit irreproch- able de sa liberte et justice. XII. Que Jesus-Christ ayant ete ordonne de Dieu, en son decret eternel, pour etre le seul Sauveur et I'unique Chef de son Corps qui est I'Eglise, il I'a rachetee par son propre sang dans Taccomplissement des temps, et lui ofFre et communique tous ses benefices par I'Evangile. XIII. Qu'il y a deux natures en Jesus-Christ, la divine et I'humaine, vraiment en une meme personne, sans confusion, sans division, sans separation, sans changement ; chaque nature gardant ses proprietes distinctes, et que Jesus-Christ est vrai Dieu et vrai homme, tout ensemble. XIV. Que Dieu a tant aime le monde qu'il a donne son Fils pour nous sauver par son obeissance tres-parfaite, nommement par celle qu'il a montree en souffrant la mort maudite de la croix, et par les victoires qu'il a remportees sur le Diable, le peche, et la mort. XV. Que Jesus-Christ ayant fait I'entiere expiation de nos peches par son sacrifice DES EGLISES VAUDOISES DU PIEMONT. 215 trt's-parfait, une ibis offert en la croix, il ne peut ni ne doit etre reitere sous quelque pretexte que ce soit. XVI. Que le Seigneur Jesus nous ayant pleinement reconcilies a Dieu par le sang de la croix, c'est par son seul merite et non par nos oeuvres que nous somraes absous et justifies devant lui. XVII. Que nous avons union avec Jesus-Christ, et communion a ses benefices par la foi qui s'appuie sur les promesses de vie qui nous sont faites en son Evangile. XVIII. Que cette foi vient de I'operation gracieuse et efficace du Saint-Esprit qui eclaire nos ames, et les porte a s'appuyer sur la misericorde de Dieu, pour s'appliquer le merite de Jesus-Christ. XIX. Que Jesus-Christ est notre vrai et unique Mediateur, non-seulement de redemption, mais aussi d'intercession, et que, par ses merites et sa mediation, nous avons acces au Pere, pour I'invoquer avec la sainte confiance d'etre exauces, sans qu'il soit besoin d'avoir recours a aucun autre Intercesseur que lui. XX. Que comnie Dieu nous promet la regeneration en Jesus-Christ, ceux qui sont unis a lui par une vive foi doivent s'adonner et s'adonnent en effet aux bonnes oeuvres. XXI. Que les bonnes oeuvres sont si necessaires aux fideles qu'ils ne peuvent par- venir au Royaume des Cieux sans les faire, etant vrai que Dieu les a preparees afin que nous y cheminions : qu'ainsi nous devons fuir les vices, et nous adonner aux vertus Chretiennes, employant les jeunes et tous les autres moyens qui peuvent nous servir a une chose si sainte. XXII. Que bien nos oeuvres ne puissant pas m6riter, notre Seigneur ne laisse pas de les recompenser de la vie eternelle, par une continuation misericordieuse de sa grace, et en vertu de la Constance imrauable des promesses qu'il nous en fait. XXIII. Que ceux qui possedent la vie eternelle ensuite de leur foi et de leurs bonnes oeuvres, doivent etre consideres comme saints et glorifies, loues par leurs vertus, imites dans toutes les belles actions de leur vie ; mais non adores ni invpqu§s, puisqu'on ne peut prier qu'un seul Dieu par Jesus-Christ. XXIV. Que Dieu s'est recueilli une Eglise dans le monde pour le salut des honimes. qu'elle n'a qu'un seul chef et fondement qui est Jesus-Christ. XXV. Que cette Eglise est la compagnie des Fideles, qui ayant ete 61us de Dieu avant la fondation du monde, et appeles par une sainte vocation, s'unissent pour suivre la parole de Dieu, croyant ce qu'il nous y enseigne, et vivant en sa crainte. XXVI. Que cette Eglise ne peut defaiblir ou etre aneantie, mais qu'elle doit etre perpetuelle. XXVII. Que tous s'y doivent ranger, et se tenir dans sa communion. XXVIII. Que Dieu ne nous y instruit pas seulement par sa Parole, mais que de plus il a institue des sacremens pour les joindre a cette Parole, comme des moyens pour nous unir a Jesus-Christ, et pour coramuniquer a ses benefices ; et qu'il n'y en a que deux communs a tous les merabres de 1' Eglise sous le Nouveau Testament, assavoir le Bapteme et la Saint-Cene. XXIX. Qu'il a institu6 celui du Bapteme pour un temoignage de notre adoption, et que nous y sommes lav^s de nos peches au sang de Jesus-Christ et renouveles en saintete de vie. 216 CONFESSION DE FOI DES EGLISES VAUDOISES. XXX. Qu'il a institue celui de la Saiiite-Cene ou Eucharistie, pour la nourriture de notre ftme, afiu que, par une vraie et vive (bi, par la vertu incomprehensible du Saint- Esprit, mangeant eftectivement sa chair, et buvant son sang, et nous unissant tres- etroitement et inseparableraent a Christ, en lui et par lui nous ayons la vie spirituelle et eternelle. XXXI. Qu'il est neeessaire que I'Eglise ait des pasteurs juges bien instruits et de bonne vie par ceux qui en ont le droit, tant pour precher la Parole de Dieu que pour administrer les sacremens, et veiller sur le Troupeau de Jesus-Christ, suivant les regies d'une bonne et sainte discipline, conjointement avec les Anciens et les Diacres, selon la pratique de I'Eglise Ancienne. XXXII. Que Dieu a etabli les rois et les magistrats pour la conduits des peuples, et que les peuples leur doivent etre sujets et obeissans en vertu de cet ordre, non-seule- ment pour I'ire, mais pour la conscience, en toutes les choses qui sont conformes a la Parole de Dieu, qui est le Roi des rois et le Seigneur des seigneurs. XXXIII. Enfin, qu'il faut recevoir le Symbole des Apotres, I'Oraison Dorainicale et le Decalogue, comme pieces fondamentales, de notre croyance et de nos devotions. Etpour plus ample declaration de notre croyance, nous reiterons ici la protestation que nous times imprimer I'an 1603, assavoir que nous consentons a la sainte doctrine avec toutes les Eglises Reformees de France, d'Angleterre, des Pays-Bas, d'Allemagne, de Suisse, de Boheme, de Pologne, de Hongrie, et autres, ainsi qu'elle est exprimee en leur confession d'Augsbourg, selon la declaration qu'en a donnee I'Auteur. Et pro- mettons d'y pers6verer, Dieu aidant, inviolablement en la vie et en la raort, etant prets de sceller cette verite eternelle de Dieu de notre propre sang, comme I'ont fait nos predecesseurs, depuis le temps des Apotres, particulierement en ces derniers siecles.- — Et pourtant nous prions bien humbleinent toutes les Eglises Evangeliques et Protestantes de nous tenir, nonobstant notre pauvrete et petitesse, pour vrais membres du corps mystique de Jesus-Christ, souffrant pour son saint nom ; et de nous continuer I'assistance de leurs prieres envers Dieu, et tous les autres bons offices de leur charite comme nous les avons deja abondamment experimentes, dont nous les remercions avec toute I'humilite qui nous est possible, et supplions de tout notre coeur le Seigneur qu'il en soit lui-meme le Remunerateur, versant sur elles les plus precieuses benedictions de sa grace et de sa gloire, et en cette vie et en celle qui est a venir. Amen. r, rUINTEK, EBEAD-STRKET-HILL BRITTLE DO NOT PHOTOCOPY ^ 30UND 0» ao '^'^ APR 2 1982