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PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878. 
 
 MONOGRAPHS 
 
 ON THE 
 
 Tusser and other Wild Silks of India, descriptive 
 of the Objects and Specimens exhibited in the 
 India Section of the Paris Exhibition, 
 
 AND ON THE 
 
 Dyestuffs and Tannin Matters of India and their 
 Native Uses, descriptive .of the Collection in 
 the India Section of the Paris Exhibition ; 
 
 BY 
 
 THOMAS WAEDLE, F.C.S., F.G.S., 
 
 MEMBER OF JDRY, CLASS 34. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY GEORGE E. EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE, 
 
 PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN’S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. 
 
 POR HER MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OEFICE. _ 
 
 1878. 
 
 Price Fivepence. 
 
I 
 
 9 
 
 i V 
 
 f* • ‘ 
 
Monograph on the Wild Silh Industry of India, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY THE CONTENTS OF THE LARGE GlASS 
 
 Case containing Wild Silk Specimens in the 
 India Section. 
 
 It is the silk pi’oduced by the Tasar, Tusser or Tussore worm, 
 in which the chief interest of the case lies. 
 
 I have endeavoured to exhibit this silk in as full a manner as 
 the space assigned to me would permit, representing it in all states 
 of its manufacture and tinctorial enrichment, showing the recent 
 improvement in manufacture and dyeing of which it is capable, as 
 well as illustrating the Natural History of the Tusser insect in all 
 stages of its development, by preserved specimens of its several 
 phases, except the larvos, which it has not been possible to obtain. 
 
 Tusser silk has long been known and used by the natives of 
 India. They have exported it in considerable quantities of late 
 years, but from their imperfect mode of manipulating it in its 
 earlier stages of manufacture, and from the difficulty of dyeing it 
 well, it has made but little way in Europe except for ladies’ and 
 children’s dresses in an undyed state. 
 
 In Bengal and the adjoining provinces from time immemorial 
 the natives have manufactured this silk into cloth called “ Tusseh- 
 doot’hies,” which is worn by Brahmins and other sects of Hindoos. 
 
 In 1858 Dr. Bird wood bi’ought the wild worms under the notice 
 of this country, and urged their utilization. 
 
 The silk is found from the North-west range of the Himalaya 
 south as far as Midnapore, in Bengal, and through the North-east 
 range to Assam, and southward to Chittagong, and probably 
 further. It is found also in the Presidencies of Bombay and 
 Madras. It is said to be abundant in Bhagulpore in Bengal. It 
 abounds chiefly in the Eastern districts of Chattisgarh, namely, 
 Baipur, Bilaspur, and Sambulpur, in the Chanda district of the 
 Nagpore province, and the Leone district. 
 
 The natural colour of the silk is a darkish shade of fawn, much 
 unlike the golden and white colours of the Mulberry-worm silks. 
 
 It has much less affinity for dyestuffs, especially for those Avhich 
 grow in India, and it has not until recently been much dyed. 
 
 For several years I have been engaged with considerable success 
 in improving the methods of dyeing, and the results are shown in 
 the case, Nos. 10, 11, 12, 20, 40, 41, 42, 52. 
 
 Important improvements which I have had effected in the 
 manufacture of Tusser silk are shown in Nos. 8, 9, 18, 19, 21, 51, 
 53, 54, 55, which will be fully described in their turn. 
 
 These improvements in the manufacture and dyeing are most 
 likely to have a very great influence on the cultivation of this silk, 
 and probably also of other wild silks, the demand for which may 
 in a few years be only measured by the quantity which can be 
 produced. 
 
 The first specimen under No. 1 in the case is a leaf of a species 
 of Terminalia containing eggs of the Tusser moth, which are said 
 to hatch in from two to four weeks. 
 
 1 355. Wt. G 203. A 2 
 
4 
 
 * PATHS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 ! 
 
 The larvee, when fully grown, 'are about four inches in length 5 
 they have twelve joints or articulations, besides their extremities ; 
 their colour is green resembling the leaves on which they feed ; 
 and thev are marked with reddish spots and a reddish yellow band 
 running lengthways. They feed on several plants : — 
 
 Rhizophora calceolaris. Linn. 
 
 Terminalia alata glabra ( Assum tree) . 
 
 Terminalia tomentosa (the Saj tree). 
 
 Terminalia Catappa (Country Almond tree 
 
 Tectona grandis. (Teak tree.) 
 
 Zizyphus jujuba. (Ber tree.) 
 
 Shorea robusta. (Sal tree.) 
 
 Bombax heptaphyllum. (Semul.) 
 
 Careya sphasrica, 
 
 Pentaptera tomentosa. 
 
 Pentaptera glabra. 
 
 Ricinus communis (Castor oil plant). 
 
 Cassia lanceolata. 
 
 In six weeks from the time they are hatched they begin to 
 spin their cocoons, which they most curiously suspend from 
 the branches of the trees by constructing a thick hard cord or 
 filament of silky matter, which is made to grasp the branches, as 
 seen in the specimens No. 3. 
 
 As soon as the worm has spun its cocoon it takes the form of 
 chrysalis or pupa (see No. 2), and remains a prisoner in the 
 cocoons for about nine months, or from October until July. At 
 the end of this time the chrysalis takes the form of a moth, and 
 whilst its wings are in an imperfectly developed state it softens one 
 end of the cocoons with an exudation which enables it to separate 
 the filaments of silk and to work its way out of the cocoon. This 
 it effects during the night. 
 
 Those shown under No. 4 are cocoons from which the moth 
 has emerged. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Tusser cocoons from Sambulpur, in the Central Provinces, but 
 larger than those under No. 3. 
 
 The weight of the ordinary Tusser cocoon with its pupa 
 enclosed and the cord by which it is attached to the branch is 
 about five grammes. 
 
 Nos. 6 and 7. 
 
 Are specimens of Tusser moths known under the following 
 names : — 
 
 Antherea Paphia (Linnaeus). 
 
 Bombyx „ (Hiibner) . 
 
 Saturnia ,, (Heifer). 
 
 Phalaena Attacus Mylitta (Durmy). 
 
 „ Paphia (Roxburgh). 
 
 Bombyx Mylitta (Fabricius). 
 
 “ Bughy ” of the native of Burbhoon Hills where 
 the silk (which the same people call “ Tusseh ”) 
 is manufactured. 
 
WILD SILK INDUSTRY OF INDIA. 
 
 5 
 
 The male is of a reddish pale brown colour and the female much 
 yellower. 
 
 Mr. O’Neil in his report says : — “ The moths are particularly 
 “ revered by the people engaged in the culture of the worms, the 
 “ occulili on their wing being considered as the ‘ chakra ’ or mark 
 
 of Vishnu. These people also px'etend to observe the greatest 
 “ purity of life during the time they are in the jungles rearing 
 “ the worms, and also do not eat flesh, flsh, or spices, do not shave 
 “ or cut their hair, do not wear washed clothing, nor anoint their 
 “ bodies with oil, and do not touch any of whom a relative may 
 “ have recently died.” 
 
 Nos. 8 and 9. 
 
 Organzine and Tram Tusser of the quality and state of manu- 
 facture now used in England for weaving, and a good representa- 
 tion of the present state of its manufacture which gives a size of 
 255 deniers (15 drams per 1,000 yards). The sizes of the Tusser 
 silk generally used in England run from 152 deniers (9 drams) to 
 255 deniers (15 drams). These are very coarse sizes and must 
 necessarily be unfit to produce such fine textile work as the mul- 
 berry silk which is manufactured into Organzine and Tram of 21 
 deniers and upwards (1^ drams) and from which are made the 
 finest silk fabrics. 
 
 The printed cloths Nos. 21 and 55 are made with Tusser 
 Organzine and Tram of the coarse size of Nos. 8 and 9 and of the 
 same quality. 
 
 The want of fineness and quality is owing to the imperfect and 
 unskilful mode of manipulating it from the cocoon upwards in 
 India, and the want of better machinery to prepare it in the raw 
 State, 
 
 Nos. 10, 11, and 12. 
 
 The same silks dyed in colours and black. Nos. 10 and 12 are 
 dyed entirely with Indian dyestuffs, and are well worthy of notice. 
 
 No. 13, 
 
 Native reeled Tusser raw silk, undyed. From Bhagulpur. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Another specimen of native-reeled Tusser raw silk, undyed. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 The same silk dyed by the natives. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 Native reeled Tusser raw silk, undyed. From Eogra, 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 Native reeled Tusser, from Bengal, undyed. 
 
8 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 Leaving the question as to whether it can be successfully wound 
 or not, one important consideration respecting its use presents 
 itself, namely, its capability of being spun like cotton and wool. 
 The great improvements made in late years in England in spin- 
 ning machinery have proved that marvellous results in making an 
 even thread from Avaste silk and unwindable cocoons for sewing 
 and weaving purposes may be attained, and I Avill venture to pre- 
 dict a future for this and the produce of all unwindable silk Avorm 
 cocoons that Avill compensate for their collection. 
 
 The industry of the natives should be stimulated to the gather- 
 ing in of all kinds of wild silk cocoons, whether windable or not, 
 for there is no doubt that those kinds which cannot be wound can 
 be most easily spun, and there is at the present moment a request 
 on the part of silk spinners for a larger supply of Tusser silk 
 cocoons and Tussore silk waste, for spinning purposes, and no 
 doubt other silk cocoons would be gladly bought up. 
 
 No. 25. 
 
 A sample of Eria silk, spun, no doubt by hand, by the natives. 
 
 No. 26. 
 
 The same imperfectly dyed by them. 
 
 No. 27. 
 
 Eria silk made by the Ricini-fed worm of Assam. 
 
 No. 28. 
 
 The same from another district of Assam (Lakhimpur), 
 
 ; Nos. 29 & 30. 
 
 Are specimens, male and female, of the moth : — 
 
 Attacus Atlas (Hiibner). 
 
 Phalasna Attacus Atlas (Linnieus). 
 
 Bombyx Atlas (Fabricius). 
 
 This moth feeds on the Phyllanthus emblica. 
 
 No. 30. 
 
 Is a specimen of the cocoon of this splendid moth which might 
 easily be spun. 
 
 No. 31. 
 
 Actias Selene ; 
 
 Phalsena Attacus ; 
 
 Feeds on Munsooree (Coriaria nipalensis). The cocoon is enclosed 
 between two leaves. The silk does not appear to be Avindable, but 
 is of a coarsish kind and might also be spun. 
 
 No. 32, 
 
 Cocoons of Actias Selene. 
 
WILD SILK INDUSTRY OP INDIA. 
 
 9 
 
 Nos. 33 & 34. 
 
 Moths, male and female, and cocoons of Bombyx Attacus (Yam 
 Mai). 
 
 Although this insect is a native of Japan it is found also in China 
 and India. 
 
 In Japan the silk of tiiis worm is said to be most highly prized 
 and reserved for the use of Royalty, but this lam inclined to doubt, 
 as the silk is not fine, the cocoon is of a beautiful pale green 
 colour. 
 
 It has been naturalized in Europe. 
 
 A cross between the Yama Mai and Bombyx Attacus Pernyi is 
 a great success in France. It is so hardy that hatching is said to 
 take place at freezing point. 
 
 Nos. 35 & 36. 
 
 Cocoons and silk of the Mooga or Moonga worm, Antherea 
 Assama. 
 
 There are five breeds of this worm per year. The feed on the 
 Addakoory, Champa, Soona, Kontooloa,Digluttee, Pattee, Shoonda, 
 and Souhalloo. 
 
 Promises to be a useful silk under proper care. 
 
 No. 37. 
 
 A silk catled Ya-baine from the district of Prome, Burmah, the 
 produce of the Bombyx Mori. 
 
 No. 38. 
 
 Eggs, cocoons, moss, and silk grege of the Bombyx Mori. This is 
 the Bengal silk of tiommerce. The worms feed on the leaves of the 
 Mulberry tree as in China, Japan, and Europe. 
 
 No. 39. 
 
 “ Pat ” silk. A rare kind of silk fiom Assam, probably a variety 
 of Bombyx Mori, but stated to be the produce of Bombyx Texta. 
 The w'orm is fed on the Mulberry leaf. 
 
 No. 40. 
 
 A rare silk from Mezankuri, Assam. 
 
 No. 41. 
 
 Another specimen of “ Pat ” or “ Pat Suta ” silk with cocoons. 
 A mulberry silk from Assam. 
 
 Nos. 42 & 43. 
 
 A set of Tusser patterns dyed with Aniline colours. 
 
 These are placed here to show the shades Aniline dyes can be 
 made to give on this silk, and not as a recommendation of their 
 use in this direction. The native dyestuffs will give more per- 
 manent colours, properly mordanted. Aniline dyes are fugitive, 
 and their use for artistic purposes or for goods intended to last a 
 long time cannot be too seriously lamented. 
 
10 
 
 PAEIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1 878 : 
 
 No. 44. 
 
 This is a sample of ordinary Bengal Organzine, dyed with a dye- 
 stuff common in most parts of British India, not used, as far as I 
 know, in Europe. 
 
 ( It is the powder brushed off the capsules of the Mallotus Phil- 
 I lipensis, called in India “Kapila ” or “ Kamala,” which contains 
 I 70 to 80 per cent, of colouring matter. By mordanting the silk 
 with carbonate of soda and alum, the powder yields a rich variety 
 of shades of golden yellow and orange colours. It appears to be 
 worthy of the notice of European dyers. 
 
 Nos. 4o and 51. 
 
 A series of patterns to show to what uses the waste of Tusser silk 
 and the cocoons pierced by the exit of the moth can be put by 
 spinning in the same way threads of cotton and wool are manu- 
 factured. It commences with samples of pierced cocoons which 
 could not be wound, waste silk from ordinary Tusser manufacture, 
 and followed by samples showing the various processes the silk 
 undergoes before it is made into thread or cord for weaving or for 
 sewing purposes. 
 
 This suggests forcibly a promising economy in store for the pro- 
 duce of all silk-maldng wox’ms. There are many species unknown 
 to commerce, rejected because of their not being capable of being 
 wound in the ordinary way, but, as I have before stated, now 
 spinning machinery is in such a perfect state, all cocoons may be 
 spun and converted into materials of some use or other. In Simla 
 alone, there are said to be eight or nine species of Bombyx, which 
 no doubt might be utilized in this way. 
 
 These remarks lead me to describe — 
 
 Nos. 53 and 54, 
 
 which are patterns of spun Tusser made in the way and from the 
 material I have just described, threads of various sizes for sewing 
 and weaving purposes as well as for fringes and knitting, dyed 
 and undyed. They may be dyed almost any shade. 
 
 No. 56. ' 
 
 Are fabrics made of this spun Tusser, woven undyed, in several 
 designs for me by Messrs. Clayton, Marsdens, Holden, & Co., silk 
 spinners, of Halifax, who also made me the samples 45 to 57 from 
 pierced cocoons and waste Tussore with which I funiished them, 
 from material collected for me in India by order of the Govern- 
 ment of India. 
 
 No. 57. 
 
 A pattern of the same kind as No. 56, but which I haTO printed 
 in seven colours. 
 
 No. 57a. 
 
 Cocoons of the Bengal Mulberry silk, Bombyx Mori. 
 
 No. 58. 
 
 Grege, or raw fine Bengal silk from Ragshaye district. 
 
WILD SILK INDUSTRY OF INDIA. 
 
 11 
 
 No. 59. 
 
 A skein of Bengal yellow raw silk from Eagskaye district. 
 
 No. 60. 
 
 A skein of Bengal White raw silk from Kagshaye district. 
 
 No. 61. 
 
 Cocoons of “ Poll ” silk (Attacus Kicini) from Fonghoo, Bur- 
 mah. 
 
 No. 62. 
 
 “ Poh ” raw silk (Attacus Ricini) Fonghoo, Burmah. 
 
 No. 63. 
 
 Cocoons of Moonga or Muga silk (Antheroea Assama), Ramrup, 
 Assam. 
 
 No. 64. 
 
 Grege Moonga or Muga silk from Ramrup, Assam. 
 
 No. 65. 
 
 Cocoons and spun silk, not exported ; 100 maunds made 
 annually. 
 
 No. 66. 
 
 Cocoons and raw silk “ Pat ” from Ramrup, Assam. Bombyx 
 texta. 
 
 No. 67. 
 
 Cocoons of Tusser silk from Beerbhoom, Bengal. 
 
 No. 68. 
 
 Black and drab cloth made from Tusser silk. Price in Decem- 
 ber 1877 Rs. 6 a than, or R. 1 per yard. From Sambulpur, 
 Central Provinces. 
 
 No. 69. 
 
 Plain Tusser silk cloth. Price in December 1877 Rs. 5 per 
 piece. From Sambulpur, Central Provinces. 
 
 No. 70. 
 
 Tusser silk cloth. District Belaspur. Central Provinces. 
 
 No. 71. 
 
 Interesting piece of dyed Tusser cloth, maroon plaid. 
 
 No. 72. 
 
 Piece of Tusser cloth, black and natural colour. 
 
 No. 73. 
 
 Piece of Tusser cloth, natural colour with stripe. 
 
 These cloths have all the defect of being too highly sized. They 
 would be more marketable in Europe without the sizing, and feel 
 and look much better. 
 
12 
 
 PAKIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 Tusser silk is, therefore, proved to be capable of extended use, 
 both from the improved manufacture I have spoken of, and from 
 the circumstances that it is capable of being dyed and printed in 
 the greatest variety of colours, and that the refuse portions can be 
 spun into threads for such a variety of purposes that there need 
 be no waste ; and I am thankful to have had the honour of being 
 entrusted to point out the extended usefulness and application of 
 the Tusser, and all other species of wild silks. 
 
 I attach a tabular statement of microscopic measurements of the 
 primary fibre of Tusser and other silks, which 1 have made for the 
 purpose of comparison. 
 
 (Signed) Tiios. Wardle, 
 
 June 18th. 1878. Leek, Staffordshire. 
 
WILD SILK INDUSTRY OF INDIA, 
 
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Monograph on the Dyestuffs and Tannin Matters 
 OF India, explanatory of the Specimens exhibited 
 IN the India Section, by_ Thomas Wardle. 
 
 Nos. 1 and la. Acacia Auabica. 
 
 This tree is very common in India, growing in all parts of 
 Bengal, Coromandel and the Deccan. 
 
 Babul. 
 
 Nan-lung Kyen. 
 Karivelam. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 The bark may be turned to advantage by the dyer in many 
 ways, and is also much used in India for tanning leather. By 
 simply boiling it in water it is made to produce various shades of 
 brown, and by adding during boiling catechu, the produce of the 
 plant treated of under Nos. 3 and 4 (Acacia catechu), and lime, a 
 somewhat permanent dye is obtained. By adding, instead of 
 cateehu and lime, sulphate of iron, a black dye is produced. In 
 Sindh this bark is the chief produce of lac ; and in Midnapur, 
 where it is termed “ Babla,” it is made to dye a very good drab 
 on cotton fabrics. Soap also is obtained from it. 
 
 As well as the bark the leaves and pods have in India various 
 tinctorial uses as yet unknown in the dyeing industry of Europe. 
 
 Nos. 2 and 3. Acacia Catechu. 
 
 r {Burm.') - Shea-dza. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind.) - Katha. 
 
 ( Tamil) - Kash katti. 
 
 This is one of the most common trees on the Bombay coast and 
 its Ghaut jungles, it is also found on the Malabar and Coromandel 
 coasts, the Northern Circars, and in the Dekhan ; it grows, too, at 
 Serampore, Delhi, Nepaul, and other parts of India. 
 
 An extract of the wood is the catechu of commerce which has 
 been used for a long time in Europe very extensively for dyeing 
 browns on silks. 
 
 No. 4. iEcLE Mar MELOS. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Bel. 
 
 Vernacular -<' {Burm.) - Oo-sheet. 
 
 [_ ( Tel.) - Maradu chettu. 
 
 This is a common plant in waste places, inland forests, and old 
 gardens on the Bombay side of India. It is known in England 
 as “ Bengal quince.” 
 
 The part of the plant which is useful tinctorially is the pulp of 
 the fruit which produces a yellow dye. This pulp is also astrin- 
 
 gent. 
 
DYESTUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 15 
 
 No. 5. Agynica Cecinia. 
 
 A tree found in Pegu, and known in tlie Burmese language by 
 the following names : — 
 
 H’ta li’men. 
 
 H’soke gyee. 
 
 At present it appears to be unknown to European dyers, but 
 the bai’k, pounded, mixed with water, and sifted is used in India by . 
 fishermen for dyeing their nets, to which it imparts a deep red | 
 colour, and, by virtue of a kind of gum which it contains, protects ) 
 the nets from the bad effects of the water. 
 
 No. 6. Aloes Sp. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 f (Burm.) 
 
 l( 
 
 Mok. 
 
 Alia. 
 
 Elva. 
 
 Musabbar. 
 
 Mussambram. 
 
 XTcL) 
 
 A dye is produced from various species of this genus of plants 
 and known under the same name. It is prepared from a bitter 
 resinous juice stoi*ed up in greenish vessels lying beneath the skin 
 or epidermis of the leaf. The leaves are cut transversely, and the 
 juice which exudes is gradually evaporated into a firm consistence, 
 in which state it is seen in the specimen in the case and is known 
 in commerce. By proper preparation with several other in- 
 gredients it is made to produce an almond colour. 
 
 No. 7. Alum. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 {Hmcl) I 
 {Tel.) 
 
 Phatakri. 
 
 Tawas. 
 
 Pathcaramu. 
 
 This substance, so well known and so largely used in Europe as 
 a mordant, both in dyeing and printing on cloth, has not hitherto 
 been produced to any very considerable extent in India. At 
 Kalabag on the Indus, however, it is manufactured from a sort of 
 slate which is found in vast quantities in the neighbouring moun- 
 tains. There are at Kalabag 14 manufactories for the purifica- 
 tion of this mineral, the effluvia from which, especially in the heat 
 of summer, greatly add to the natural unwholesomeness of the 
 atmosphere. These manufactories produce annually about 430 
 tons, which is sold at 78 rupees per ton. There are also alum works 
 at Kutch and at Kotkee in the Punjab. Alum occurs native in 
 Nepaul and at Chownsilla. 
 
 No. 8. Amaranthus Polygamus. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r {Beng.) 
 
 J {Hind.) 
 [(7^am.) - 
 
 { 
 
 Champa nuti. 
 Chumli sag. 
 Chulai. 
 
 Mulli kirey. 
 
\6 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 This plant is cultivated all over Southern Asia, Its ashes are 
 mixed with Tarota seeds, lime, and indigo, for dyeing shades of 
 colour varying from blue to black. 
 
 No. 9. Amygdalus Persica. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 f (Ars.) - Khookh. 
 
 \ {Hind.) - Shaft-aloo. 
 
 A variety of the peach tree, apparently not yet known in 
 European tinctorial industry. It grows in the vicinity of 
 Shanghae. 
 
 No. 10, Anilia Sak. 
 
 This is the Indian name for a dyeing material, of which the 
 specimen marked No. 10 is a sample, but which is not known at 
 present, as far as I can gather in Europe. 
 
 Nos. Hand 12. Artocarpus Integripolia, 
 
 '{Hind.) - Pannas. 
 
 {Beng.) - Kantal. 
 
 Vernacular {Burm.) - Peing-nai. 
 
 {Mahr.) - Fannas. 
 
 ' \j^Tam.) - Pila maram. 
 
 This tree, known to Englishmen by the name of ‘‘Jack tree ” or 
 “ Jack fruit tree,” is indigenous to and grows freely in Pegu and 
 Bassim. The wood is used for dyeing light to deep shades of 
 golden yellow on silk and cotton. It is mainly used for dyeing 
 the robes of the Burmese monks. If combined with “ Htouksha” 
 or vitex arborea it gives a light green, which is permanent. 
 
 No. 15. Bahakar. 
 
 An Indian dyeing material not used at present, as far as I am 
 aware, in Europe. 
 
 No. 16. Bassia Latifolia. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r {Beng.) 
 
 ) {Hind.) 
 
 {Mahr.) 
 
 J^Tam.) 
 
 Mohwa. 
 
 Mahwa. 
 
 Moho. 
 
 Illupa. 
 
 A tree known in England as the Mahwa tree, growing in the 
 mountainous parts of the Circars, in Bengal, the Terace, Oudh, 
 Gwalior, Punjab, iu Malwa, Nagpore, and Guzerat. 
 
 The bark is used in India along with other ingredients for dye- 
 ing a beautiful golden yellow on cotton. 
 
 No. 13. Curcuma Longa. 
 
 Turmeric powder of which No. 13 in the case is a sample, it will 
 be found more fully described under No. 54. 
 
BYE STUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 17 
 
 No. 14. Bhushee. 
 
 This is another name for carbonate of soda, quod vide. 
 
 No. 17. Bauhinia Purpurea. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Deva Kanchun. 
 
 Vernacular {Mahr.) - Kunchuu. 
 
 [(TcZ.) - Bodanta Chettu. 
 
 This tree which is a variety of B. variegata and synonymous 
 with B. acuminata and B. purpurascens grows throughout the 
 year in the Mauritius, Ceylon, Assam, and both peninsulas of India. 
 It is rare in Coimbatore and does not seem to be indigenous on 
 the Bombay side where it is cultivated as also in the Punjab, the 
 Dekhan, and Teuasserim. 
 
 At present it appears to be unknown tinctorially in Europe but 
 has probably the same dyeing properties as B. variegata which is 
 described under No. 18. In England it is known under the name 
 of the “ Purple mountain ebony.” 
 
 No. 18. Bauhinia Variegata. 
 
 r {Beng.') - Eaeto Kanchan. 
 
 Vernacular < (Mahr.) - Kanchan. 
 
 1^ (^Ilind.') - Kuchnar. 
 
 A tree common in India, found in Burmah and at Ajmeer and 
 sparingly in the Bombay forests. The bark is used in India as an 
 ingredient in dyeing yellows on cotton. 
 
 ' The tree is known in England as the “ mountain ebony,” and it 
 iwill be observed that its vernacular names somewhat resemble 
 those of B. purpurea, which is a variety of it. 
 
 Nos. 19 and 20. Berberis Lycium. 
 
 r r - Chitra. 
 
 Vernacular*/ (^Hind.')^ - Kashmal. 
 
 [. Sumulu. 
 
 Known in England as the Raisin Berberry, and found at an 
 elevation of from 3,000 ft. to 9,000 ft. on the Himalaya, and at 
 Missuri and Kaghan but not west of Hazara. 
 
 The root and wood yield a beautiful yellow dye. 
 
 Nos. 22 and 23. Berberis Tinctorium. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 { 
 
 (the tree) {Hind^) 
 (the extract) {Hmd.) 
 
 “ Chitra ” or “ Chotra.” 
 “ Rusot ” or “ Rasaut.” 
 
 This tree is well known in European tinctorial industry, and 
 has in fact received the name of “ Dyers’ berberry.” It ranges in 
 the mountains of India from the Himalaya to the Neilgherries and 
 to Newera Ellia in Ceylon. 
 
 Both root and wood contain a beautiful yellow colouring matter 
 which exists in the root to the extent of 17%. This yellow colour- 
 ing principle according to Leschenault is contained by B. tinctoria 
 in a greater state of purity than by the common English Berberry. 
 This tree is said to be identical with B. aristata. 
 
 I 355. 
 
18 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAI. EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 No. 24. Bhauri Leaves. 
 
 A dyeing material used in India for the preparation of a red 
 colour and found in the jungles. The Mahratti name is Shunkrong- 
 hlai. 
 
 No. 25. Bhushee or Bhusxi. 
 
 Identical with Carbonate of Soda, quod vide. 
 
 No. 26. Bixa Orellana. 
 
 Vernacular < 
 
 
 {Beng. ^ Hind.) 
 (Btcrm.) 
 
 {Mahi\) 
 
 (Tel.) 
 
 Latkan. 
 
 Thiden. 
 
 Kisree. 
 
 Jaffra Chettu. 
 
 Synonymous with Bixaceae orellacea. There are two varieties 
 of this plant, “ Cariboea ” with rose coloured flowers cultivated in 
 the West Indies, and “ Indica ” with white flowers cultivated in 
 India. The pulp of the seed forms the arnotto of commerce so 
 extensively used as a dye for silks and cloths of many descriptions. 
 A great variety of very beautiful red and orange colours are ob- 
 tained by it, and by' mixing it with other dyes. It is also much 
 used as a colouring matter for cheese. The dye of the Indian 
 variety, however, is neither so good nor so abundant as that of the 
 West Indies. The plant is much cultivated in Singapore, Mysore, 
 and the northern parts of India. Dr. McClelland mentions that it 
 is largely cultivated all over Pegu for the red and yellow dyeing 
 properties of its capsule. 
 
 ! No. 27. Bokal Bark. 
 
 r (Beng., Hind., Sans.) - Bakula. 
 
 , J (Burm.) - - Kya-ya. 
 
 Vernacular- j - - Baoul. 
 
 ' \(Hind.) - - Mulsari. 
 
 The bark of a tree botanically known as Mimusops elengi. The 
 tree is found in Ceylon, throughout the peninsulas and the north 
 of India, in Burmah, Pegu, Tenasserim and the Moluccas. In the 
 Bombay forests it is mostly found as a cultivated tree, more rarely 
 wild and then only below the Ghats. The bark is used for dyeing 
 various shades of drab on cotton. 
 
 No. 28. Buchania Latifolia (Roxb.). 
 f (Burm.) - Lumbo. 
 
 1 (Hind.) - Pyah 
 
 Vernacular (Mahr.) - Char. 
 
 I • j (Sanse.) - Chara. 
 
 [_( 7' el.) - Chara chettu. 
 
 A tree common for some distance west of Jumna in the lower 
 hills. It also grows in Ajmeer and in the Bombay presidency, 
 where it is found in the inland districts more than the coast jungles. 
 In Canara and Sunda it is most frequent among the Ghats par- 
 ticularly north 'of Dandellee. It abounds, too, in Mysore and 
 Cuddapah, and occurs in Cuttack. The bark is used for tanning. 
 
DIE STUFFS AND TANNIN MATTEKS OP INDIA. 
 
 19 
 
 Pouk pin. 
 Parasa. 
 Pullus. 
 Kinouka. 
 Telia mocluga. 
 
 Nos. 29 and 30. Butea Feondosa. (Eoxb.) 
 
 { {Beng.) - Pulasa. 
 
 {Burm.) 
 
 ]^ahr]) 
 
 (Sanse.) 
 
 {Tel.) 
 
 This plant occurs in most parts of India. An infusion of its 
 flowers and also of those of B. snperba produce on cotton, pi’c- 
 viously mordanted with alum, a great variety of beautiful yellow 
 colours, and by the application of an alkali to the cotton subse- 
 quently to dyeing a deep reddish orange can be obtained. The 
 seeds are also useful to the dyer, producing on cotton a light 
 yellowish salmon colour. During the last five years, in Nagpur, 
 the crops of Butea flowers have, altogether, amounted to 500,000 
 maunds. In Oudh the price is 2s. to 16s. per kutcha maund. 
 This plant in England is called the Pulas tree. 
 
 No. 31. Caesalpinia Coeiaria (Wield.). 
 
 A plant found in gardens in Madras, growing plentifully also 
 about Singapore, Salem, Bangalore, Hoonsoor, and Chicacole. It 
 was introduced into India in 1842 by Dr. Wallich. The seed 
 pods are extensively used for dyeing several varieties of black and 
 for tanning leather. The selling price of the pods with the seeds 
 removed is from 8/. to 13^. per ton. They are known in English 
 by the names of Libi libi,” “ Divi divi,” and American 
 sumach. 
 
 No. 32. Caesalpinia Sappan (Linn.). 
 
 r {Beng.) - Bakkam. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hmd.) - Pattangay. 
 
 \^{3Iahr.) - Pattang. 
 
 This tree grows all over S.E. Asia. Its wood, 3,000 or 4,000 
 tons of which are annually imported into Ehgland, is used for 
 dyeing reds on silk. 
 
 No. 33. Calotropis Gigantea (Brown). 
 
 ' {Burm.) 
 
 Vernacular -< Hmd.) 
 
 l{Tel.) 
 
 A tree growing all over India and Burmah, the fibre from 
 which is used for making a cloth which is said to be very durable. 
 The bark, termed Madar bark, is said to have tinctorial properties. 
 
 • Mai-oh. 
 f Akund. 
 
 1 Ak. 
 
 Telia jilledu. 
 
 No. 34. Calysaccion Longifolium (Eoxb.) 
 
 {Btc?’m.) - Tha-ra-bi. 
 
 ( Can.)- 
 {Tel.) - 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 Taringa. 
 
 Sura ponna. 
 
 Surunji (in Ahmednagar). 
 
 A tree growing on the Northern Circars, Konkans, Kennari 
 Jungles, and Western Mysore. i The roots and bark are used in 
 
 B 2 
 
20 
 
 PAKIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878. 
 
 Ahmediiagar along with the flowers of Grislea tomentosa and the 
 fruit of Terminalia chebula for dyeing cloth a green colour. The 
 flower buds are also said to have tinctorial properties upon silk. 
 
 No. 35. Carthamus Tinctoria. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 This plant is grown in great abundance all over India, and the 
 flowers, which have received the name of Safilower, are largely 
 exported, and also used by the native dyers. The safilower from 
 Paterghanta and Belispore is considered in the London market to 
 be the best exported from India. With regard to the inland trade 
 the quantity exported to the town of Nagar alone during the 
 year 1874-5 was valued at about Rs. 12,000, about two-thirds of 
 which were sent to Bombay, and the rest consumed locally. 
 Safflower is exported in large quantities from the Nizam’s 
 dominions, and commands a price of Rs. 20 to Rs. 40 per palla of 
 120 seers, while that produced in the district of Ahmednagar sells 
 at Rs. 15 per palla. It is used for dyeing silk and cotton to 
 which it imparts beautiful shades of pink and scarlet. 
 
 No. 36. Cassia Auriculata. 
 
 Tar war. 
 
 Tangada Kurra. 
 
 The bark of this tree, which grows in Madras and the Deccan, 
 is useful for tanning leather. The value of the quantity produced 
 in the district of Ahmednagar annually is Rs. 25,000, of which 
 four-fifths are sent to the Bombay markets and one-fifth consumed 
 locally. 
 
 No. 37. Cassia Fistula. 
 
 ( Tam.') - Koannay. 
 
 1 {Mai.) - Choonnay. 
 
 Vernacular {Tel.) - Kela. 
 
 {Hind.) - Amultas. 
 {BenqS - Sonaloo. 
 
 Synonymous with Carthartocarpus fistula. The bark of this 
 tree is used for tanning, but not being very astringent is of no 
 great value. In England this tree is known as the “ Pudding 
 Pipe tree.” 
 
 No. 38. Cassia Tora. 
 
 Chakunda. 
 
 Prabunatha. 
 
 Tagary. 
 
 The seeds of this plant called Tartigyan seeds are used in the 
 preparation of a blue dye which is fixed by lime water. The 
 plant abounds all over the plains of India and in Tenasserim. 
 
DYE STUFFS AND TANNING MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 21 
 
 No. 39. Casuarina Muricata. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 
 
 A tree grown in all paris of the Deccan, where it was introduced 
 in 1830, and diffused over Bengal. A brown dye has been ex- 
 tracted from its bark. Its wood is known in England as “ Beef- 
 wood.” 
 
 No. 40. Garth ART ocARPUs Fistula. 
 
 Synonymous with Cassia fistula quod vide. 
 
 No. 41. Cedrela Toona (Eoxb.). 
 
 r {Beng., Sansc.) - Tunna. 
 
 I {in Bombay') - Kooruk. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Burm.) - - Thit-ka-do. 
 
 I {Hind.) - - Toona. 
 
 K{Tam.) - - Toona maram. 
 
 The tree grows at the foot of the Himalaya and to the south, iu 
 Bengal, Mysore, and both peninsulas of India in varying abun- 
 dance. It is said to exist plentifully in Travancore. Its flowers 
 are useful in dyeing nankeens on cotton, and will produce a good 
 fawn colour on unbleached calico. In conjunction with safflower 
 they are used by the natives of Mysore for dyeing the beautiful 
 red colour there known as “ Gul-i-Nari.” The bark is very 
 astringent. The tree is known in England under the name of Toon 
 tree. 
 
 No. 42. Cercops Roxburghianus. 
 
 Garan. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r {Beng.) 
 
 Y^Jomm.) |Kn-byen. 
 
 A tree growing on all the coasts of tropical Asia. The bark is 
 used among dyers iu India, chiefly in the presidency of Bengal. 
 
 No. 43. Chaikatha. 
 
 A tree growing in the Balasore district, an infusion of the 
 wood and roots of which produces a light drab colour on cotton. 
 
 No. 44. Citrus acid a. 
 
 Vernacular - {Hind.) - Limbu-ka-chal. 
 
 The lemon tree, the rind of the fruit of which, in Shikarpur, is 
 used in dyeing as a mordant. 
 
 No. 45. Coccus Cacti. 
 
 r {Guz., Hind., Pers. 
 Vernacular -< {Tam.) 
 
 \{Tel.) 
 
 Kermij . 
 
 Cochinil puchi. 
 Cochinil puruga. 
 
 “ An insect, a native of Mexico, the dried bodies of which ^ con- 
 stitute the substance known as cochineal, which is so extensively 
 used as a dye, and which imparts to silk and wool such splendid 
 
22 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 and permanent shades of red, crimson, and scarlet. Great Britain 
 pays annually about 440,000/. for this insect (1870), considerably 
 more than 1,000 tons being imported every year, and purchased 
 at about 3s. Qd. per lb. Cochineal is an expensive colour, and is 
 rarely in the hands of the Indian native dyer, but if supplied to 
 him he understands the method of using it. The Coccus cacti is, 
 at seasons, plentiful in many parts of India, and Sir Charles 
 Layard informs me, also in Ceylon. It was introduced into India y 
 in the year 1799. The insects feed upon the prickly pear (Cactus | 
 indicus) and swarm to localities where it grows ; 70,000 of them { 
 weigh only 1 lb. The use of cochineal has most unfortunately jy 
 been immensely restricted since the discovery of the reds derived n 
 from aniline, to the great detriment of lasting dyes, as cochineal \ 
 when used with proper mordants is very permanent and gives a 
 great variety of shades. 
 
 No. 46. Coccus Lacca. 
 
 ^ r {In Nagpur) - Lakh. 
 
 Vernacular -< (/w Mergui) - Khyril. 
 
 Lakh Dana. 
 
 The insect which produce the substance called lac. It inhabits 
 India and is found on various trees in great abundance on 
 Ficus religiosa, F. Indica, Butea frondosa, and Ehamnus 
 jujuba. When the females of this coccus have fixed themselves . 
 to a part of the branch of the tree on which they feed, a pellucid 1 
 and glutinous substance begins to exude from the margins of the 1 
 body, and in the end this substance covers the whole insect with a 
 cell which when hardened by exposure to the air becomes lac. 
 
 So numerous are these insects, and so closely crowded together 
 that they often entirely cover a branch. The broken twigs covered 
 with these incrustations are called stick lac. After the colour has 
 been extracted and further purified shellac results. Lac is used \ 
 as a bright red dye on wool and other cloths and for some ) 
 piu’poses instead of cochineal. It is largely manufactured in 
 Bengal. 
 
 No. 47. CoNOCARPUS Latieolius (Roxb.) 
 
 { {Hind.) “ Thoura. 
 
 {Mahr.) - Dawura. 
 
 ( Tel.) - Duca. 
 
 ■ '“■1 4 • 
 
 This tree grows in the Kenneri jungles, valleys of the Konkan 
 rivers, on the inland Dekhan hills, and at Chillaime and Chittagong. 
 The leaves are used for dyeing yellow, and the gum from the tree 
 for a thickening for the colouring liquid in printing on cloth. 
 
 No. 48. Copper. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 f {Burm.) 
 {Mai.) 
 {Sansc.) 
 Tam.) 
 Tel.) 
 
 Ky-a-ni. 
 
 Tambaga. 
 
 Tamraka. 
 
 Shembu. 
 
 Tambram. 
 
UYB STUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 23 
 
 Copper ores occur in the Jepoor dominions, in the vicinity of 
 Nagpore, in the form of sulphuret chiefly in Ramgurh, and the 
 
 carbonate in Ajmeer. ’ • , . 
 
 / 
 
 No. 49. Copperas. 
 
 f{Hi7id.) - Mortuth. 
 
 , ) (Sansc.) - Tulthanjana. 
 
 Vernacular -< . Turishu. 
 
 [.(TeZ.) - I'urishi. 
 
 This substance is largely manufactured in several parts of 
 India. 
 
 No. 50. CosciNiuM Fenestratum. 
 
 , r (Tam.) - Mara munjib. 
 
 Vernacular - Mani pasupu. 
 
 A tree which grows in Ceylon and Southern India. Its wood 
 yields a yellow dye. 
 
 No. 51. Crotalaria Juncea. 
 
 r {Hind.) ‘ Sunn. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 J {Bu7'm.) " Pan. 
 
 ] {Tam.) - Wakkoo. 
 
 1^ ( Tel.) - Sannamu. 
 
 This plant is cultivated for its fibre in many parts of India. 
 
 No. 52. Curcuma Amada. 
 
 Amada. 
 
 Tommon Munga. 
 A plant of Guzerat, Concan, and Bengal. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 
 
 No. 53. Curcuma Aeomatica. 
 
 Synonymous with C. Zedoaria quod vide. 
 
 Nos. 54, 55, 56, 57, 58. Curcuma Longa (Roxb.) 
 
 y r{Be7ig.,Hind.) - Haldi. 
 
 y I {Malay.) - - Hoonhet. 
 
 I Vernacular -< {Sansc.) - • Haridra. 
 
 I ( Tam.) - - Munjall. 
 
 l(TeZ.) - - Pasupu. 
 
 A plant which grows all over India and the Archipelago. The 
 root is Imown as turmeric and is a dyestuff which is very exten- 
 sively used. It imparts very bright yellows to f 
 used along with indigo green colours are obtained. On 
 silk turmeric produces a gold colour. It is very fugitive b^ m 
 several parts of the east the colour is successfully fixed by mor- 
 
 danting. 
 
 No. 58a. Curcuma Turmerica. 
 
24 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 No. 59. Curcuma Zedoaria. 
 
 r {Beng.) - - Sliutliif. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind., Sansc., Tel.) - Kucliur, Karcliura.) 
 
 \^{Tam.) - - Kasturi manjab. 
 
 A plant indigenous to Bengal, Chittagong, and China. In 
 England it has the name of the “ long-leaved turmeric,” and like 
 C. Longa yields a yellow dye. 
 
 This is an interesting collection of the species of Curcuma 
 although not complete. I believe all of them yield a yellow dye. 
 They are also severally used in perfumery, medicine, and as a 
 condiment. 
 
 No. 60. Datisca Camialbina. 
 
 Vernacular - {Hind.) - Ik’l-bir. 
 
 A tree gro wing in Cashmere, Kanawur, Nepal, and the Hima- 
 laya. The bark and root are esteemed in the Punjab for dyeing 
 yellow. 
 
 No. 61. Delphinium Pp. 
 
 Vernacular - {in Ahmednagar) - Espharka palli. 
 
 This species of Delphinium is used in Ahmednagar along with 
 pistachio galls for dying light red. 
 
 No. 62. Diospyros Sp. 
 
 Vernacular - Dhanbaher. 
 
 A tree of India, the bark of which is used for tanning leather. 
 
 No. 63. Diospyros Haspi. (The Ebony Tree.) 
 
 Vernacular - {Kendu.) - Tai. 
 
 A tree growing in Henzada, by which is yielded a dyeing 
 material which is exhibited in a liquid state in the case. 
 
 No. 64. Carbonate of Soda. 
 
 r ( Gtcz., Hind.) - Sajikhar. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind.) - Khar. 
 
 \_{Tam., Tel.) - Applacaram. 
 
 In India carbonate of soda is obtained from Salicornia Arabica. 
 West of Surdurbuns, and from Salicornia Indica, west of Malabar. 
 It is extensively used for washing and cleaning fabrics and textile 
 materials of every description previously to dyeing. 
 
 No. 65. Emblica Officinalis. 
 
 Vernacular -< 
 
 ~{Beng.) - Aoula. 
 
 {Malay) - Malaca. 
 
 {Hind.) - Amliki. 
 
 {Tam.) - Nellikai. 
 
 _( Tel.) - Amla kanni. 
 
 A tree growing in south of Peninsula and the Southern Mah- 
 ratta country. The fruit produces a very good slate colour on 
 cotton and the bark is used for tanning leather. 
 
DYESTUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 25 
 
 No. 66. Embryopteris Glijtinifera. 
 
 r {Beng.^ Hind.) - Gal. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Tam.) - - Tumbika. 
 
 - - Tumei. 
 
 This plant grows in the north of Ceylon, the Peninsula, Tra- 
 vancore, and Bengal. An infusion of the unripe fruit, which 
 contains a very large proportion of tannin, is used for steeping 
 fishing nets to make them more durable. 
 
 No. 67. Eugenia J ambolana. 
 
 r{Beng.) - Kalo jam. 
 
 I {Hind.) 
 
 Vernacular - < {Mahr.) 
 
 I {Tam.) 
 l{Tel.) 
 
 A plant growing in Madras, Bombay, and other parts of India. 
 It is used with indigo in dyeing cotton yarns blue. 
 
 Burra jamon. 
 Jambool. 
 
 Peru nagal. 
 Pedda neredu. 
 
 No. 68. Euphorbia Tirucalli, 
 
 f {Beng.) - Lanka sij 
 
 Vernacular -i 
 
 t(m) 
 
 Sendh. 
 Seyr teg. 
 J emudu. 
 
 The plant grows on the Bombay side, in Coromandel, Malabar, 
 and Bengal. It is known in England as the “ Milk hedge.” 
 
 No. 69. Ficus Infectoria. 
 
 r ( Can^ - Bassari mara. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind.) - Jovi. 
 
 (^(216^.) - Juvvi. 
 
 A plant growing in Ceylon and the peninsula of India. The 
 root furnishes a red dye for cloth. 
 
 No. 70. Ficus Religiosa. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r {Beng.) - Ashwuth. 
 
 J {Hind.) - Pipal. 
 
 I ( Tam.) - Arasa maram. 
 \_{Tel.) - Raya manu. 
 
 This tree grows in most of the countries of S.E. Asia. In Mid- 
 napur the bark, which is termed Asud dial,” is used to produce 
 a reddish drab on cotton. The leaves are used for tanning 
 leather. 
 
 No. 71. Fuller’s Earth. 
 
 Vernacular - {in Shikarpur) - Mait. 
 
 Of this substance 4,000 maunds annually are produced at Roliri 
 and sent to Shikarpur, where it is bought at Rs. 5 per maund. It 
 is used for cleaning silk and wool previously to dyeing. 
 
26 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 4878 : 
 
 No, 72. Garcinia Eoxburghia. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 " Toung-tlia-lay. 
 
 VeinacuJai - j 
 
 This tree grows in Ceylon, Travancore, Malabar, Chittagong, 
 and on the hills of British Burmah. A light yellow dye is 
 extracted from the bark. 
 
 No. 73. Gul Jullil. 
 
 SiUc is steeped into a solution of this substance, which is found 
 in Hyderabad, previously to being dyed yellow with turmeric. I do 
 not know the botanical name, but the dye is obtained from the 
 pale yellow flowers and stalks. 
 
 No. 74. Gossypium Indio dm. 
 
 Vemacdar ^ 
 
 b {Hind.) - Kapas. 
 
 The cotton plant, which grows in Hyderabad, Jacobabad, and 
 other parts of India. The flowers, called in Jacobabad “ Vonum- 
 jo-gul,”^are used as a mordant in dyeing various colours. 
 
 No. 75. Grewia Oppositifolia. 
 
 • 1 r (Hind^ - Daman. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 ^ ^ _ Bihull. 
 
 A plant which grows in the Kheree Pass and in the Dheera 
 Dhoon, and is found in the Sutlej Valley, between Rangpur and 
 Sungnam. I am not yet acquainted with its use as a dye. 
 
 Nos. 76 and 77. Grislea Tomentosa. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Dhae-phul. 
 
 Vernacular {Hind.) - Dhai. 
 
 l_(7b^.) - Godari. 
 
 This plant is found in every part of the continent of India. The 
 flowers are used as a red dye, and with the bark of Calysaccion 
 longifolium and indigo as a green dye on cloth. 
 
 No. 78. Gushum Lai. 
 
 A substance from Kane Hill which gives a black dye. 
 
 No. 79. Hedyotis Umbellata. 
 
 Vernacular ' Choj^. 
 
 Vernaculai . g^ya. 
 
 This plant grows on the Coromandel coast, and is called in 
 England “ Chay ” and “ Indian Madder.” The root gives a very 
 good and durable red dye for cotton cloth, and a purple and 
 brown orange dye are also procured from it. 
 
 No. 80. Hirakus. < 
 
 A substance used in dyeing in Hyderabad. 
 
DYESTUFIi’S ANP TANNIN MATTEKS OF INDIA. 
 
 27 
 
 No. 81. Hiemich. 
 
 All Indian dyestuff. 
 
 No. 83. GtAll Nuts. 
 
 Vernacular - {Hind.') - Haldo. 
 
 Gall nuts are found in the Nizam’s territory, where they are 
 used for dyeing black on silks. 
 
 No. 84. Hymenodyction Excelsum. 
 
 { ( j^T- j\ f Kala bachnak, 
 
 'V ernaciilar - ^ ^ Bundarn. 
 
 b ( Tel.) - Chetippa. 
 
 This tree is common all round the foot of the Neilgherrie and 
 in the mountainous parts of the Circars. In England it is called 
 Cedar wood. The bark is used for tanning leather. 
 
 No. 85. Indigofeea Tinctoeia. 
 
 r {Guz., Hind.) - Nil. 
 Vernacular -< (Burm.) - Main-ay. 
 
 b {Malay) - Nila. 
 
 This plant is extensively grown in India, as well as in many 
 other parts of the world. It yields the substance called indigo, 
 which is well known to all connected with the dyeing of textile 
 fabrics, as producing a good and permanent blue colour. Indigo 
 is also much used along with yellow tinctorial substance in order to 
 obtain many shades of green. 
 
 It is much to be lamented that its use for dyeing is restricted to 
 wool and cotton. I am hoping to revive its application to silk 
 dyeing, which since Macquer has gradually died out in Europe. 
 It is the only durable blue on silk. 
 
 No. 87. Ikon Rust. 
 
 { {Burm.) - Than Khya. 
 {Mai.) - Tai Basi. 
 
 ( Tam.) - Tuphu. 
 
 This substance, used by dyers in India, is produced in Shikarpur 
 at a price of Rs. 8 per maund. 
 
 No. 88. Jasminum Geandiploea. 
 Vernacular 
 
 f {Burm.) 
 '^^{Hind.) 
 
 Myat lac. 
 r Chambeli. 
 
 \ Jati. 
 
 A plant grown in India and used in Hyderabad with the seeds 
 of Morinda citrifolia and other ingredients for dyeing red on 
 Khadi cloth. 
 
 No. 89. Jateopha Glandulifeea. 
 
 , f ( Tam.) “ Addale. 
 
 Vernacular ~ ^^{'j'd,) - Nila amida. 
 
 This plant is a native of the East Indies, and grows in the 
 Deccan and the Northern Circars. The leaves are used for dyeing 
 
28 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 green. One mauud of them in a dried state will dye 1,280 yards 
 of cloth an apple green colour. 
 
 No. 90. Kahu. 
 
 A dyestuff from the Berars yielding a brown colour. 
 
 No. 91. Kais. 
 
 An Indian dyestuff, of which 50 maunds per annum come from 
 Dadhur to Shikarpur, and are bought at Rs. 4 per maund. 
 
 No. 92 Kauna Bark. 
 
 The bark of a tree growing in Ceylon. Used tinctorially in 
 India. 
 
 Nos. 93 and 94. Lawsonia Inermis. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 Hind:) - Mehndi. 
 
 veinacuiar . . p^gni. 
 
 A shrub which grows all over India and many other Oriental 
 countries. It is the Camphire of the Bible. A reddish brown 
 substantive dye is procured from the leaves, which is used in the 
 East for dyeing ordinary stuffs. The women of Turkey and other 
 Oriental countries use it for dyeing the tips of their fingers, to 
 which it imparts a beautiful rose colour. It is best known under 
 the name “ Plenna.” The Arabs use it to dye the manes and 
 tails of their horses a reddish orange colour. It is also used among 
 some men in the East to dye their beards. 
 
 No. 95. Lime. 
 
 { {Hind.) - Chuna. 
 
 {Mai.) - Tur. 
 
 {Tam.) - Chunambu. 
 
 This substance is used as a mordant in dyeing in Shikarpur, 
 Jacobabad, and the Central Provinces. 
 
 No. 96. Loranthus Longiflorus. 
 
 f {in Kangra) - Pand. 
 
 Vernacular -I {in the Punjab)- Banda. 
 
 - - Amut. 
 
 A tree which gi’ows in the Punjab and on the Himalaya moun- 
 tains. The bark is used by tanners. 
 
 No. 97. Maholi. 
 
 This substance, which yields a red dye, is found in all parts of 
 Oudh forest. I do not know its scientific name. 
 
 Nos. 98 and 99. Mallotus Phillipensis. 
 
 , f {Sansc.) - Kambha. 
 
 Vernaculai- . gendri. 
 
 This plant is common all over British India. 
 
 The powder brushed off the ripe capsules and collected forms a 
 most valuable dyeing material, although at present it has been 
 
DYE STUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 29 
 
 very little employed in the tinctorial industry of Europe. It pro- 
 duces on silk mordanted with carbonate of soda and alum a most 
 beautiful variety of shades of golden yellow and orange, and is so 
 rich in colouring matter as to contain 70°/^ or 80°/^. It appears 
 to be very permanent, for three samples I dyed with it (see 
 No. 44 in the case of wild silks) do not seem to have lost any 
 colour exposed to bright sun for the first two months of the 
 Exhibition. 
 
 No. 100. Mangifeea Indica. 
 
 f (3Ialay) - Manga. 
 
 Vernacular -< (Scinsc.) - Amx’a. 
 
 \.(nind?) - Am. 
 
 This tree is very extensively cultivated in India, and is known 
 ill England as the Mango tree. Gallic acid is said to be produced 
 from the seed, but it is most probably tannic acid. 
 
 No. 101. Mao Nutgao. 
 
 Probably synonymous with Mangifera Indica quod vide. 
 
 No. 102. Media Azedaeach. 
 
 r (Hind.) - - Drek. 
 
 Vernacular -< (Hind, and MaJir.) - Nim. 
 
 [_(Te/.) - - Vepa manu. 
 
 A plant common in Northern India and useful for tanning. 
 
 No. 103. Memecylon Tinctorium. 
 
 r (in Bombay) - Anjun. 
 
 Vernacular -< (Mahr.) - - Kurpa. 
 
 [_ ( Tam.) - - Kasha maram. 
 
 This plant grows in the Malay peninsula, Tenasserim, and 
 Coromandel. The leaves yield a yellow dye. 
 
 No. 104. Mijmosa Abstergens. 
 
 ■^r 1 f (Hind.) - Sikka-kai. 
 
 Vernacular - 1 ^ . geekayah. 
 
 Grows in Mysore. The pods or legumes are used in India 
 instead of soap for washing the head. 
 
 No. 105. Mimosa Sirissa. 
 
 { r - Sirissa. 
 
 (Mahr.)< - Chi. 
 
 L- Sal. 
 
 Used tinctorially in India. 
 
 No. 106. Morinda Angustifolia. 
 
 A plant found on the Garro Hills, Assam, and used for dyeing 
 scarlet. 
 
30 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 Nos. 107 and 108. Morinda Citripolta. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 {Hind.') - Al. Ach. Ak„ 
 {Biirni.) - Yai-yoe. 
 
 {3Iahr.) - Bartondie. 
 
 {Tel.) - Maddi cliettu. 
 
 A small tree common in Kotah and Boondee. It is much cul- 
 tivated in the Bombay Presidency, and grows also in that of 
 Madras, as well as in Pegu, Cochin China, and the Moluccas. 
 From the roots and bark a scarlet colouring matter is procured 
 which is used in India for dyeing handkerchiefs, turbans, &c. It 
 is employed also to assist more expensive dyes in giving a red 
 colour to yarn and cloth, the red thread used in carpet making 
 being entirely dyed with it. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 No. 109. Morinda Exserta. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Bun-uch. 
 
 A small tree of the Circars, Bengal, and Burmah, which like 
 other Morindas yields a red dye. 
 
 No. 110. Morinda Lanceolata. 
 
 Vernacular {Hind.) - 
 A plant of Bengal which yields a yellow dye. 
 
 No. 111. Morinda Tinctoria. 
 
 { {Beng., Hind.) - Al. Uch. Ach. 
 
 {Tel.) - - Maddi-chettu. 
 
 {Sans.) - - Uchyuta. 
 
 A small tree, supposed to be the same as M. Citrifolia in its 
 wild state. It is pretty common in every part of India, and is 
 largely cultivated at Ganjam, Gumsur, Boondee, Kotah, and 
 other places. The bark of the root is used to dye red, the 
 colour is fixed with alum, but it is neither bright nor dux’able. 
 The roots may also be made to yield a beautiful golden yellow on 
 cotton. 
 
 No. 112. Morinda Umbellata. 
 r {Burnt.) - Aya. 
 
 Vernacular -</ {Malay) - Mang kudu. 
 
 ' [_ ( Tam.) - Nuna maram. 
 
 A plant found in the western parts of India, Courtallam, and 
 Malabar. The roots yield a yellow dye, and with the addition of 
 Sapan wood a red dye for cotton. 
 
 No. 118. Multanis. ' 
 
 An Indian ilyestulf not used at present, as far as I am aware, in 
 Europe, 
 
DYESTUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 31 
 
 No. 114. Neepasay Glay. 
 
 The root of an Indian plant used as a dyeing material in Pegu. 
 
 No. 115. Neepasay Gyee. 
 
 The root of a plant growing in Pegu and used in dyeing both 
 red and yellow on silk and cotton. 
 
 No. 116. Nyctanthes Arbortristis, 
 r {Beng.) - Shioli. 
 
 Vernacular -< (^Mahr.) - Pahar-butti. 
 
 l_(*S'an5.) - Sephalica. 
 
 This plant grows in Ajmeer. The tubes of the corollas yield a 
 most beautiful though transient yellow on silk and cotton. 
 
 No. 117. Odina Wodier. 
 
 f {Burm.) - Na-bhay. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind.) - Kiamil. 
 
 [_ ( Tam.) - Ani-carra. 
 
 A tree growing on the Coromandel mountains, in Bengal, and 
 Travancore. The gum which exudes from the trunk of the tree 
 is used as a thickening for the colours in printing on cloth. The 
 bark is used in Oudh for dyeing brown. 
 
 No. 118. Oryza ‘Sativa. 
 
 Vei-nacular 
 
 The rice plant, which grows all over India. The husk of rice 
 is used tinctorially in India, but not yet, as far as I am aware, in 
 Europe. 
 
 No. 119. Parmelia Chamcadulis. 
 
 A lichen, gathered on the Himalaya and used in India in 
 dyeing. Amongst the Himalaya it is known by the names of 
 “ Chalchalira” and “ Ausneh.” 
 
 No. 120. Papdi. 
 
 Synonymous with carbonate of soda, quod vide. 
 
 Nos. 121 and 122. Phyllanthus Emblica. 
 
 Synonymous with Emblica officinalis, quod vide. 
 
 No. 123. PiNus Bxcelsa. 
 
 , f {in the Punjab) - Biar. 
 
 Vernacular ’ [\Be.as. Sutlej, ^e.) - Kail. 
 
 A tree growing in Narambethy, Nepal, Simla, Bootam, Sirmooi, 
 and Gurhwal. 
 
32 
 
 rAEIS UNIVEKSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 No. 124. 
 Vernacular - 
 
 PiNus Longifolia. 
 
 {Hind) - 
 
 ( Chir. 
 
 ^ Sulla. 
 
 L Thausa. 
 
 A tree growing on the Himalaya, in the entrance to Nepal, in 
 the Cheree Pass, and along the Tonse and Jumna rivers. 
 
 Nos. 125 and 126. Pistacia Vera. 
 
 Vernacular - {Hind.) - | Pista^^' 
 
 This plant grows in many parts of Asia. The galls and flowers 
 are used for dyeing a light red colour on silk. 
 
 No. 127. Potash. 
 
 , 7 - 1 r {Hind.) - Khar iowkshar. 
 
 V ernacular -{)rr \ tvt 
 
 \{lam.) - Manu-uppu. 
 
 This substance is produced in Jacobabad, and is used for clean- 
 ing silk before dyeing. 
 
 No. 128. Pterocarpus Marsupium. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Y’egy, Vaygah. 
 
 Vemacular -I {Hind.) - Bibla, Pit shala. 
 
 {Mohr.) - Bheulah. 
 
 A tree of southern India and Malabar. The wood contains a 
 yellow colouring matter extensively used in India in dyeing and 
 calico printing. 
 
 No. 129. PuNicA Granatum. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 J {Hind.) 
 \ {Tam.) 
 
 Anaar-darim. 
 Madalum palam. 
 
 The Pomegranate tree, common in Bombay. The rind of the 
 pomegranate is used for tanning and also produces a deep shade 
 of yellow on cotton. 
 
 No. 130. Quercus Incana. 
 
 An Indian oak, the galls of which are used for tanning and for 
 dyeing black. 
 
 Nos. 131 and 132. Quercus Infectoria. 
 
 Vernacular - {Hind.) - Majoo-phal. 
 
 An oak tree growing in various parts of Asia. The galls and 
 bark are used in tanning. 
 
 No. 133. Easum Buti. 
 
 An Indian dyestuff not used, as far as I am aware at present, in 
 Europe. 
 
 No. 134. Ehus Kakrasinghee, 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 
 A plant found in Kangra^ the Himalaya, and Rumaon. Its pods 
 are used for tanning. 
 
DYESTUFFS AND TANNIN BIATTEES OF INDIA. 
 
 33 
 
 No. 135. Eubia Munjista. 
 
 { {Beng.') - Arana. 
 i^Hind.^ - Munjit. 
 
 ( Tam.') - Sawil kodi. 
 
 A plant growing in Assam, Nepal, and Bombay. In England 
 it is called Indian madder,” and the roots, stems, and large 
 branches yield a red dye, which is, no doubt, much similar to that 
 yielded by E. Tinctorium. 
 
 No. 136. Eubia Tinctorium. 
 
 Vernacular - (^Hind.) - Menjithe. 
 
 This plant is grown all over India and Ceylon. Its root yields 
 the valuable dyeing material known as madder, which is so 
 extensively used in Europe by both dyers and calico printers, and 
 produces most beautiful and permanent shades of red and scarlet 
 on cotton silk and wool. 
 
 No. 137. Eung GtACh. 
 
 An Indian dyestuff, not yet used, as far as I am aware, in 
 Europe. 
 
 No. 138. Sakea Beri. 
 
 An Indian dyesHuff, not used at present, as far as I am aware, 
 in Europe. 
 
 No. 139. Semicaepus Anacardium. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r {Beng.) - Bhela. 
 
 J {Burm.) - Chai-bin. 
 
 I {Hind.) - Bhalawan. 
 
 ^ {Mahr.) - Bibooa. 
 
 This plant is found in Madras and Bombay. The nuts are used 
 in dyeing as a mordant, and a black juice is also extracted from 
 them wdiich is used to mark all kinds of cotton cloth. 
 
 No. 140. Sesamum Indicum. 
 
 r {Bimn.) - Ilnan. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Beng., Hind.) - Til. 
 
 - - Tila. 
 
 This plant is found all over India. Potash is obtained fi’om it 
 which (as stated under the head of ‘‘ Potash ”) is used for cleaning 
 silk previously to dyeing. 
 
 No. 141. Shingeuf. 
 
 An Indian dyestulF, not known at present, as far as 1 am aware, 
 in Europe. 
 
 No. 142. Soymida Febeifugu. 
 
 { {Beng.) - Eohuna. 
 
 {Hind.) - Eohitaka. 
 
 ( Tam.) - Shem-maram. 
 
 I 355. 
 
 c 
 
34 
 
 PAKIS UNIVEBSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 : 
 
 This tree is found in Coimbatore, Cuddapah, and the moun- 
 tainous districts of India. The bark dyes brown of various shades, 
 according to the nature of the cloth. 
 
 No. 143. Safplowee Cake. 
 
 The flowers of Carthamus tinctoi'ia, quod vide. 
 
 No. 144. SULPHUE. 
 
 r {Burnt.') - Kan. 
 
 Vernacular »< {Malay.) - Balirang. 
 
 - Gendagum. 
 
 This substance, much used for bleaching purposes, is found in 
 India, in the regions of both active and extinct volcanoes. The 
 price in Shikarpur, to where about dOmaunds annually come from 
 Kachi, is Es. 12 per maund. 
 
 Nos. 145 and 146. Symplocos Racemosa. 
 
 { {Hind., Beng.) « Lodh. 
 
 {Mahr.) - Hoora. 
 
 ( Tel.) - Lodduga. 
 
 This tree grows in Nepaul, Kumaon, and Bengal. The bark of 
 the root is sold in India at one rupee for four seers and is used for 
 dyeing reds. On silk a beautiful shade of deep crimson may bo 
 produced by it. 
 
 No. 147. Tagetes Eeecta. 
 
 Vernacular ■ {Hind.) - Genda. 
 
 This plant, which grows in Oudh, yields a yellow dye which is 
 transient. 
 
 NoSi 148 and 149. Tamaeix Oribntalis. 
 Vernacular - in the Punjab 
 
 This tree grows on the Punjab plains and in Peshawur. The 
 Galls, termed in Hindustani “ Bari mai,” are employed as a mor- 
 dant in dyeing silk, and in parts of the Punjab the flowers also 
 are used for dyeing. The bark is used in India for tanning. 
 
 No. 150. Teeminalia Alata. 
 
 r {Hind.) - Urjan. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Mohr.) - Kunjul. 
 
 (*S'a?wc.) - Arjuna. 
 
 A tree growing in the Punjab and the Peninsula. The bark is 
 used for tanning the skins of deer, goats, &c. 
 
 Nos. 151 and 152. Teeminalia Bellerica. 
 
 r {Beng>) 
 Vernacular -< {Mahr.) 
 
 Buhura. 
 
 ^ Berda. 
 
 [_ {Sansc.) - Babira, 
 
 This plant grows in Ceylon, Pegu, and the Peninsula of India. 
 The fruit is used for tanning leather, and a yellow dye is obtained 
 from the galls. 
 
t>YESTUFFS AKD TANNIN MATTERS OF INOIA. 
 
 35 
 
 Nos. 153, 157, 158, 159, 160. Terminalia Chebuea. 
 
 r {Beng.) - Haii tuki. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hmd.) - Har. 
 
 \{Mahr.) - Heerda. 
 
 This tree grows in Ceylon, both Peninsulas of India, Nepaul, 
 and the Punjab. The bark is used for tanning leather. The 
 galls, too, are used for tanning as well as for making ink, and they 
 produce a durable yellow colour on chintz and carpet yarns. The 
 oval fruits, which are termed myrabolans, also contain much tannin, 
 and with alum yield a good durable yellow dye, and with salts of 
 iron a black dye is produced. 
 
 No. 154. Terminalia Citrina. 
 
 This plant is found in Assam, Khassya hills, and the Kotah 
 jungles. It yields a yellow dye. 
 
 No. 155. Terminalia Catafra. 
 
 A tree growing in the Moluccas, both Peninsulas of India, 
 Deccan, Bengal, Madras, and Bombay. 
 
 The bark and leaves yield a black pigment, with which the 
 natives dye their teeth and make Indian ink. Tussah silk worms 
 feed on the leaves. 
 
 Nos. 161, 162, and 163. Terminalia Tomentosa. 
 
 A tree growing on the Malabar coast, the Concans, Monghir, 
 Rajmahal, Oudh, the N.W. Provinces and Manbhoom. The bark 
 is astringent and is used for dyeing black. 
 
 Nos. 164 and 165. Thespesia Populnea. 
 
 A tree growing in Ceylon and Southern India, and known in 
 England as the Tulip tree. The capsules are used by the Cinga- 
 lese for dyeing yellow. The flower buds and unripe fruit also 
 yield a yellow viscid juice, useful as a dye, and a thick deep red 
 coloured oil is expressed from the seeds. 
 
 C 2 
 
36 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878 
 
 No. 166. Vbntilago Maheraspatena. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 ■ iTel.) 
 
 Erra chiratah. 
 Surugudu. 
 
 This plant is common in Mysore, Ceylon, and the Indian Penin- 
 sula, and it is also found in Tenasserim. It is known in England 
 as the Purple Chuckway. In Mysore an orange red dye is pro- 
 cured from it. 
 
 No. 167. WooDEORDiA Floribunda. 
 
 Vernacular - Hind. - Kangra. 
 
 A plant growing in the Punjab. Its use is not known at pre- 
 sent, as far as I am aware, as a dyestuff in Europe. 
 
 ^ No. 168. Wrightia Tinctorli.. 
 
 r {in Bombay^ - Bhur-kuri. 
 
 Vernacular -< {Hind., Mahr.') - Kala-koodoo. 
 
 \^{Tam.') - Pala maram. 
 
 The plant grows in Coimbatore, Godavery, and other forests of 
 the Madras Presidency, and is very common in all the forests of 
 Bombay. The leaves afford an inferior kind of indigo called 
 “ Pala-indigo.” 
 
 No. 169. ZiZYPHUS JUJUBA. 
 
 r (Ar.) - Zruf. 
 
 Vernacular {Beng.) - Kulyach. 
 
 p {Hind.) - Nazak. 
 
 A tree growing throughout British India and Ceylon. It has 
 in England the name of ‘‘ Ber tree.” In the north of India this 
 tree bears a kind of lac called “ Beree-ki-lakh,” used for dyeing 
 leather, cotton, and silk. 
 
 No. 170. 
 
 Mr. Locke’s very interesting album of cloths and yarns dyed in 
 colours produced by dyestuffs indigenous to Bengal. 
 
 No. 171. Eed Ochre. 
 
 Vernacular 
 
 r Tha kar. 
 
 \ Tholas saupar. 
 
 No. 172. Terbiinalia Chebula. 
 
 This ])lant is found in Manbhoom, and its fruit, which is termed 
 “ Myrabolans,” yields a black dye, and is used for tanning. 
 
 No. 173. Coccus Lacca, 
 
 Vernacular - Ai-agu. 
 
 A plant found in Mysore, and from which lac dye is obtained. 
 
DYESTUFFS AND TANNIN MATTERS OF INDIA. 
 
 37 
 
 Nos. 174, 182, 183, 187. Carbonate of Soda. 
 
 . fDulla. 
 
 Vernacular J DuUa undata. 
 
 I Hhusnee. 
 
 [_Nemuk dulla. 
 
 This substance comes from Loonar Lake and the Berars, and is 
 used in the manufacture of soap, and as a substitute for soap, also 
 as a mordant in silk dyeing. 
 
 No. 175. CaesalpH^ia Sappan. 
 
 V ernacular - Bakam. 
 
 This plant, the wood of which is used for dyeing red on silk, is 
 found all over S.E. Asia. 
 
 No. 176. TERmNALiA Bellerica. 
 
 Vernacular - Bahera. 
 
 A plant found in the N.W. Provinces, the fruits of which are 
 used for tanning. 
 
 ■No, 177. PiSTAciA Terebinthus. 
 
 Vernacular - Boz gand. 
 
 The galls of this plant are used for tanning, and as a mordant 
 for Kamila. 
 
 No. 178. Terminalia Angustifolia. 
 
 A plant found in the Peninsula. Its fruits are termed “ Myra- 
 bolans,” and like the other two species of myrabolans dye with 
 alum a durable yellow, and with salts of iron black. They are 
 also used for tanning. 
 
 No. 179. Lacca Laccifera. 
 
 A plant found in Mysore. Its galls, called Tamarix galls, are 
 used for dyeing scarlet. 
 
 No. 180. Plumbago Zeylanica. 
 
 Vernacular - Chitra-chita. 
 
 This plant comes from Mysore, and its root is used for dyeing 
 black. 
 
 No. 181. Sapindus Sp. 
 
 The pulp of the seeds of this plant is used for washing silk 
 
 No. 182. See No. 174. 
 
 No. 183. See No. 174. 
 
 No. 184. Sapindus Saponaria. 
 
 Vernacular - Aritha. 
 
 This plant is found in Bengal, and its berries, called “ Soap 
 berries,” are used in dyeing as a detergent. 
 
38 
 
 PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION, 1878. 
 
 No. 185. Butba Frondosa. 
 
 Vernacular - Dhak. 
 
 This plant comes from the Berars, and its flowers are used for 
 dyeing yellow. 
 
 No. 186. Nyctanthes Arbortristis. 
 
 Vernacular - Shioli. 
 
 A plant foimd in Ajmeer, the flowers of which are used for 
 dyeing a reddish yellow. „ 
 
 No. 187. See No. 174. 
 
 No. 188. Cedrela Toona. 
 
 Vernacular - Toona. Tunna. 
 
 This tree is found in Bengal, and its bark is very astringent. 
 
 No. 189. Cocoas Cacti. 
 
 Vernacular - Kermij. 
 
 An insect found in Mysore, the dried bodies of which constitute 
 cochineal, a substance extensively used for dyeing red and scarlet 
 on silk and wool. 
 
 My authorities for the native uses of the foregoing dyestufls are 
 the Commissioners of the several districts in India, who were in- 
 structed by the India Office in 1874 to collect India dyestuffs and 
 information concerning them, also Balfour’s Cyclopaedia of India, 
 and the interesting and instructive Album containing dyed samples 
 of cloths and yarns of silk, wool, and cotton beautifully arranged 
 and described by II. H. Locke, Esq., Secretary of the Economic 
 Museum, Calcutta, &c., to which I have great pleasure in calling 
 attention, &c. {See No. 170.) 
 
 Thomas Wardle, 
 
 Leek, Staffordshire. 
 
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