COLUMBIA LIBRARIES OFFSITE AVERY FINE ARTS RESTRICTED AR01 402641 —J :\ i£x SItbria SEYMOUR DURST "t ' 'Tort nU Je M^nhatans (NEW YORlt ) , 1651. When you leave, please leave this book Because it has been said "£ver'tbincj comes t' him who waits \ Except a loaned book." y^e* Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/penandinkpanoramOOmath_0 I A PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA NEW-YORK CITY. CORNELIUS MATHEWS. NEW- YORK : JOHN S. TAYLOR, 17 ANN-STREET. 1853. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by JOHN S. TAYLOR, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New- York. JOHN J REED, Print., 16 Spruce-Street. SUB-DIVISIONS. Introduction...... ........ 5 Walk Preliminary 10 Disadvantages of Being Born a New-Yorker.... 16 Broadway * 30 Phineas T. Barnum, Esquire 38 The Happy Family 50 Way-Sidr Histories...., 55 Little Trappan • .*.. 56 The Hairless Horse 66 Disbanded Lamp-Posts 69 The Horse-Radish Enthusiast 73 A Short Excursion *.« 78 The New York Fireman 92 A Grand Pageant 102 A Director of Pageants 107 The Sempstress --• .'.09 Abdurd Calculations 120 The Bowery 124 The Uproarious Young Gentleman 137 '* Tickets for Greenwood." 143 Mrs. Always 152 Seeing the Bear Dance 159 Chatham-Street 161 Reforming the World by Wholesale 170 Our Festivals 173 On the Road 181 The Newsboys 1 182 The Crystal Palace 195 Bird's-Eye View of the City 203 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA OF NEW-YORK CITY. In the little canvass I propose to open before you, ladies and gentlemen, I have attempted to paint a home picture. The seven colors of the rainbow have been pretty freely used, I may say, quite exhausted, by previous artists : there is little more to be clone with them. We have had panoramas of the Thames, of Cali- fornia, the Mississippi, the Holy Land, gor- geous with all the tints of the palette. What, then, is left to me, that I too invite you to a panoramic exhibition ? There is a single un* b INTRODUCTION. employed color, common writing-ink, and for a pencil, the old, familiar, and easy-motioned grey goose-quill. With the aid of these, and your kind indulgence, I shall endeavor to body forth something for your entertainment, by unrolling before you the streets and characters of a great city, which I have studied from my boyhood — each high -way and by-way of which I may say that I know, as familiarly as the dog-eared pages of Robinson Crusoe or the Pilgrim's Progress. In an hour or two we will accomplish lengths and breadths of this town w T hich it would take you, unaided, twenty years, more or less, to traverse. In this Pen and-Ink Panorama, you w T ill have a street per- spective ; a sketch of character ; we shall oc- casionally stop and visit an interior ; it may be a place of amusement, a reading-room, a little quaint old school : by way of relief and landscape to our gallery, we may take an ex- cursion out of town, up the North River, or I across the East, to a suburban burial-place. I INTRODUCTION. 7 invite you, ladies and gentlemen, to bear me company. You must be content, I give you notice, to see objects for the time through my glasses — which, for your sakes, I keep as bright and clear as I can. Do not think time wasted if I loiter, even at a penny show, or pause to meditate by an an- cient lamp-post. Do not despise the home- spun dresses in which my characters appear. It is true that this panorama, now about to unroll, relates to these common streets. But, I pray you, are not these very streets tho- roughfares for those creatures of divine make, men and women, as good, as kind, as friendly, and noble as any that walk the earth ? I for one avow plainly that I love New York — and I will seek to make you love it, too, even with all its cares and troubles, and wicked people, and bad ways. I sometimes fancy that there is no city in the world like this very New York of ours, that there never has been and never will be. 8 INTRODUCTION. In one of these suppositions, at least, I am probably right. There is no living rival or re- semblance to our metropolis, in many of its peculiarities and characteristics. "Whether hereafter any city just like it will spring into existence, no one, except the happy mortal who carries the spy-glass of prophecy, can possibly foresee. I love to go back into old history, and to fancy that it has in times past had a twin-brother, as is curiously illustrated in more than one trait and usage, which iden- tify old Rome (which was at its height of pow- er and glory a couple of thousand years ago) with modern New York ; proving that human nature is very nearly the same, whether under the toga, worn with so much dignity by the Roman Senators, as we see on the stage, or under the dress-coat made by Mr. Snip-Snap, the Broadway or Bowery tailor. For in- stance, we know r it is the fashion of our popu- larity-seeking politicians on election day, to make their appearance in the neighborhood of ► INTRODUCTION. 9 the polls in a fusty hat and shabby coat, to se- cure the sympathy of their humbler fellow- citizens. This is an old " dodge," and was played by candidates for office, with the Ro- man populace ; those self-sacrificing patriots beating our own, by allowing their beards to grow, and emptying a pan of ashes upon their heads, to make them look destitute and ple- beian. That the Roman cobblers, who were great demagogues, were accustomed to lead the mob about for the purpose of getting themselves into work by wearing their shoes out, we have high authority for believing. Our New York politicians, on the other hand, know a trick worth two of that — they inflame the people, and hurry them off at a high trot to a church, a flour store, a printing office, and run them out of breath so that they may have the satisfaction of filling their bellies with east wind, in an empty and boisterous harangue. Like occasions breed like results ; and our at- tention is often called to this parallel between 10 WALK PRELIMINARY. two great cities of ancient and modern times, by proceedings like those of a late meeting on the affairs of Cuba, in the Park, in which fig- ured Captain Rynders — Excuse me, ladies and gentlemen. I do not intend to become either personal or political. Now to the raising of the curtain, for a view of the promised entertainment. That you may plainly understand the humor in which this panoramic exhibition is got up, before we enter upon the grand scenes, let us take a short WALK PRELIMINARY. Has it ever happened to you, my friends, to go into the streets at an unusual hour, at a time, I mean, different from your customary routine, earlier or later, when the city has not arrived at or is past that state of development, in which you are generally accustomed to see it ? You must know, if you take any note of Huch things, that each hour of the twenty four WALK PRELIMINARY. 1 1 in a metropolis has its peculiar dress and un- dress, as much as a fine lady — who may be, early in the morning, a housewife out of curl — somewhat later a tidy receiver of calls — then a well-attired promenader — afterwards in dinner costume — and again operatically apparelled. Having occasion, on a late morning, to make a journey into the city a couple of hours be- fore my usual time of appearance, so different was its aspect, everything seemed to me more like a dream than a reality. I scarcely knew myself to be in New York. There were no merchants abroad — no women — none of the old familiar faces. I seemed to have lost my reckoning, and in the dreamy humor brought on in this change of the scene, everything seemed new, peculiar, strange, and somewhat fantastical. The horses in the early omnibuses I regarded as toy-horses, not the oat-fed trot- ters of the middle of the day ; the omnibuses I regarded as toys ; and the drivers, up there, as a sort of mandarins or queer kind of ghosts. 12 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. I remember looking upon such of the horses as pricked up their ears and galloped briskly, as being a little out of their heads, in taking a pride in drawing the stages : while such as drooped and ambled along, appeared to me to have a greater stock of common sense, and a much more correct appreciation of the busi- ness they were engaged in. The blank streets stretched away, like the avenues of Venice or far-off Thebes in the cosmoramas at the Mu- seum, and one or two prompt maid-servants in the windows looked as if they were at work by sunrise, in Bagdad. I suppose it is the power of so voluntarily stepping out of the familiar round and regarding things about us in a novel light, pretty much as an intelligent spirit or angel might, which the world has agreed to call genius. By familiarity we lose the sense of objects about us — they cease to be men, houses, streets, and become mere ma- terial forms — differing a little in height, color, or shape, but having no appreciable character WALK PRELIMINARY. 13 or distinguishableness, one from another. In the humor to which I refer, a young man who walked before me in the ordinary sack of the season, and with the common beaver hat and black leather gloves, did not seem to me, as no doubt he was, a clerk or shop-tender on his way to the store or counting room — but some- thing queer, curious, inexplicable. The absur- dity of his dress, which was not in the least degree absurd, seen at the usual hours and in the accustomed connection with other things, came upon me like a revelation. I could not, for a moment, regard him as any relation of mine ; but kept contemplating him for a long distance, as some strange, outlandish creature, newly landed. After him, from a cross street, my eye encountered another spectacle in a roundabout of cloth, with a tin kettle at the end of his arm ; a workman, no doubt, on the way to his job. Nothing ever seemed more ridiculous — so belittled and disturbed my idea of a hitman being, as to believe that this grown- 14 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. up creature — for I noticed that his short-cut locks were grizzled — should have gone on or come on, as I am sure he had, from the be- ginning of his manhood to this grey time of life, doing nothing but wear a roundabout and carry a tin can in his hand. I never felt more forcibly in my life that man is a fallen creature, and that Adam had something to answer for. It is not worth while to trouble you further with the speculations of the morning, except to say, that when you are tired of books from their everlasting similitudes and wearisome repetitions — if you would have a novelty of sensation, stir out of bed an hour earlier than usual or tarry from it an honr later in a walk down Broadway — and you will have inter- chapters and original episodical views, equal to our best living writers of fiction. It is in this very spirit, taking the city by surprise and unaware of our eye of observa- INCIDENTAL. 15 tion, that we are now venturing fortn. And what kind of a panorama is it that (after all these preliminaries of expectation) I now call your attention to? To what new region, Mr. Panoramist, do you invite us with so clamor- ous a tinkle of the bell ? There are several unexplored quarters to w T hich you might be taken. For instance, there is China ; we have no panoramic painting of that. There is the great Desert of Sahara — a very fine subject; and two or three hundred more remote pro- vinces of the Earth. Turning my back upon all these, will you believe, will you not laugh in my face, when I announce that I have se- lected as a subject, this very hurry-skurry, hum-drum, hodge-podge, harum-skarum City of New York ? It is, as I have acknowledged, a plain, home- spun subject, and it has its difficulties. So peculiar, variable and shifting — such is its mis- cellaneousness and the constant change of its aspect, by the infusion of new material from 16 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. all quarters, that it is no easy matter for a Na- tive to keep his foothold and point of observa- tion ; in fact, and not to the matter in the least, I might as well at the outset avow plainly, in this respect, THE DISADVANTAGES OF BEING BORN A NEW YORKER. A delightful humorist (a noble-hearted Eng- lishman by the way) once presented to the world a capital and conclusive paper on the inconvenience of being hanged ; and, prompt- ed by my own experiences, I shall be able to establish, I am pretty sure, that one might as well be hanged as This is broaching the matter too bluntly; I must approach the grand Quod Erat De- monstrandum with a little preparation. It will not do to state, in so many words, that it would have been more comfortable for one to have been born a Carribean, with a privilege of wielding a club in his own defense ; or a A DISADVANTAGE. 17 Choctaw, with the inalienable natural right of cleaving my enemy's skull with a tomahawk ; or a Hindoo, with idols of one's own to wor- ship, and not imposed on me by other nations, although they might be of wood ; or, in a word, anybody else, or anywhere else, than a free republican citizen of this vast confede- racy. I propose to begin at the beginning, and to show, in my own simple history, the utter absurdity of being born an American ; that in the creation of an American, Nature intends a huge joke ; or, to sum up all in brief, that it may be fairly doubted, if not entirely demonstrated, whether, properly speaking, there is any such place as America. I am wil- ling to admit that the title " America" does appear in various geographies, gazetteers, and other publications of a like kind : also, that there is a certain considerable superficial space marked off in many, perhaps in all of the maps or atlases in common use, which passes also under that designation ; but whether 18 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. there is any distinctive country, with its own proper customs, habits, and self-relying usages, answering to that name, or any such charac- teristic creature, representing such customs, habits, and usages, called American, will ap- pear or not, ladies and gentlemen, when we have advanced a little further in the subject. I was first led to entertain doubts in this way. It was the custom of my father — peace to his memory ! — to have me accompany him to the shop of the barber, where he submitted every other day to his quarterly shaving. In these visits, it happened, not rarely, when the shop was well attended with customers, that I, a lad perhaps some five or six years of age, was prompted to mount a chair, and recite or improvise a brief oration on some current sub- ject arising at the moment ; and my success was often so considerable that I received an honorary gratuity of a sixpenny piece — which altogether inspired me with the feeling that native talent was held in high esteem among DISADVANTAGES. 19 my countrymen. This opinion I cherished and held fast till my tenth year, when my mind was disturbed by the unusual commotion in the same shop at the announcement of the death of the British Premier, George Canning, and the appearance, shortly thereafter, in an honorary gilt frame, of a colored head of the said Canning, assigned to the most conspicu- ous position on the wall. This shock was fol- lowed up with a pair of boots, purchased for my juvenile wearing, which I heard named Wellingtons, and which, vended as they were freely in my own city here of New York, I learned were so named in honor of a distin- guished general who had spent his life in fight- ing the battles of the English Government. As I grew in years, evidences thickened upon me. To say nothing of Liverpool coal, Kidderminster carpets, and such indoor impor- tations, I found the same shadow crossing my path in the public streets, laid out by the same native corporation. I struck out to the east, 20 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. and found myself rambling in Albion Place; I wandered to the west, and landed in Abing- don Square ; I pushed for the north, and came square upon the snag of London Terrace. 1 used to rub my eyes, and wonder whether I was in the New World or the Old ; and w T as afflicted with the uncomfortable sensation of the man who went to sleep in the mountains, and waking up after a twenty years' nap, opened his eyes under a republican govern- ment, although his slumbers had begun under a royal rule. Mine was merely reversed : I fancied I had slept backwards to the good old times of George the Third, and w T as surprised to miss the statue of that excellent king from its old post of authority in the centre of the Bowling Green, next to the Battery. When I had grown up to be old enough to take an interest in books, I found the same happy delusion still maintained. I put out my hand, as I suppose boys do in other countries, to seize upon some ballad, history, or legend DISA DVANTAGES. 2 1 connected with the fortunes of my own peo- ple ; and I found twenty busy gentlemen zeal- ously filling it with English publications. — Whatever my humor might be, to laugh or cry, for a glimpse of high life or low, for verse or prose, there was always one of these industrious gentlemen at my side, urging on my attention a book by some writer a great way off, which had no more to do with my own proper feelings or the sentiments of my country, than if they had been Persian or Patagonian — only they were in the English language, always English. I said to myself, as I began to consider these matters, I'll take to the newspapers ; surely these, as belonging to the country, published in the country, and by men like myself, must make me ample amends for being practised upon in the bound books : 1 will read the newspapers. Never was boy, thirsting after patriotic reading, more completely duped. One after the other, here were police reports, with slang phrases that 22 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. certainly never originated in any of the courts or prisons of the New World ; elaborate ac- counts of prize-fights and cricket matches, and what not of that sort ; and withal, such an out- pouring of disagreeable associations, that the shadow fell upon my spirit again, and I was more than ever clear upon the point, that who- ever had the naming of this quarter of the globe in the maps and gazetteers, had clearly committed an egregious mistake in calling it America : he should have named it Little Bri- tain. In spite of these discouraging convictions, I saw that the people about me were given to laughter, and, in a way of their own, had some- thing of a relish for merriment. I have it at last, I said to myself: they let these heavy dogs of Englishmen name their streets and edit their newspapers ; but when they come to anything elegant, sportive, and cheerful, they take the matter into their own hands. I'll go to the Museum and see what the Ameri- DISADVANTAGES. 23 cans, my fellow-countrymen, are about there. Will you believe it ?— as I live, the first object I encountered in the hall was the cast-off state coach of Her Majesty, Queen Adelaide, so blocking up the way that I made no attempt to advance further ; but, turning on my heel, I determined to indemnify myself at one of the theatres. I struck for the nearest, and, as if in conspiracy with the state coach, the first notes I caught from the orchestra were c( God Save the Queen," played with great energy by the musicians, and vigorously applauded by a portion of the audience. I tried another house immediately, where I was entertained during my short stay, by an old gentleman in a wig, (unlike any other old gentleman I had ever seen in my life,) who was denouncing some- body or other, not then visible, as having con- ducted himself in a manner altogether unwor- thy an " honest son of Britain !" There was still another left to me — a popular resort — where flaming bills, staring me in the face 24 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. every time I passed, had promised abundant " novelty suited to the times." I have you at last, methought ; you cannot escape me now ; this is the theatre for my money. What was my astonishment, on entering and possessing myself of one of the small bills of the evening, to discover that they had taken one of -those new books I had come away from home to avoid, and made a play of it : it was really too much partridge by a long shot. There was not a mouthful of air, it would seem, to be had for love or money; the moment I opened my mouth, wherever it might be, at home or abroad, for health or pleasure, these busy die- tarians were ready with their everlasting par- tridge, to gorge me to the throat. Where was the use of repining ? Time heals all wounds of the youthful spirit. I grew to man's estate. Now (said I, chuckling to my- self at the thought,) I will set this matter right. These men mean well ; they would give just what you desire, but, poor fellows, they havn't DISADVANTAGES. 25 it to give. That (I continued to myself,) is easily settled ; I will take an American sub- ject, (allowing, for the nonce, that there is such a place as America:) I will represent a man of character, a hero, a patriot. I will place him in circumstances deeply interesting to the country, and to which the republican feeling of the country shall respond with a cheer. No sooner thought than done. The play was written : an American historical play. With some little art a hearing was procured from one of these gentlemen — a stage manager, as they call him. I stuffed him, that all the pipes and organs of his system might be in tune, with a good dinner ; which he did not disdain ; although I may mention that the greens were raised in Westchester, and the ducks shot on the Sound. I announced the title and subject, and proceeded to read : during this business he seemed to be greatly moved. At the con- clusion of the MS. I found my manager in a much less comfortable humor than at the table.. 26 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. In a word, with ill-concealed disdain, he pro* nounced the play a failure, and wondered that anybody would spend his time on subjects so unworthy the English Drama, as little provin- cial squabbles like those of American History, He was right : American History is not a suit- able subject for the English Drama. With doubts still thickening in my mind whether this was America, I paid the reckoning, thrust my play in my pocket, and hurried home, anxious to consult some authentic chronicle, to make sure whether there had been such an event as the Revolutionary War. Such an event was certainly there set down, at consi- derable length, and one George Washington was mentioned as having taken part in it. The printed book I read from was called the His- tory of the United States ; but from all I could see, hear, and learn, daily, about me, the United States, so referred to, was decidedly non existent, at least so far as I had yet pushed my researches. DISADVANTAGES. 27 But I did not, even now, altogether despair. I said again, Perhaps I am limiting myself to too humble a range of observation ; why should I confine, myself to the city of New York, Empire City though it be, and capital of this great Western Continent ? I will change the scene ; I will go a journey ; I will strike for Bunker Hiil : if I find that, all is safe. Bos- ton is not at the end of the earth, nor is one a life-time in getting there. I found Bunker Hill : I could not easily miss it, for there was a great pile of stones, a couple of hundred feet high, which a blind man could not have missed if he had been traveling that way. You are mistaken, young man, (I again addressed my- self, as I contemplated the granite pyramid :) there has been a Revolutionary War: the American Colonies fought it, and after a severe struggle, great waste of blood, treasure, and counsel of great men, they severed them- selves from the Mother Country, and they were free ! The little grievances which have 28 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. irked you, such as names of streets, play-houses, and such trifles, are scarcely worthy of your consideration : politically, you are free. You have your own political institutions, with which no stranger can intermeddle : what more could you ask ? I w 7 as hugging myself in this comfortable conviction, pacing proudly in the shadow of Faneuil Hall, that venerable cradle of our boasted Independence, when a boy placed in my hand an " extra sheet," from which I learned that a steamer had just arrived from England, and had that moment landed, on the very w r harf of Boston where the tea was dumped, an emissary, apparently authorized by the Mother Country, for he was a member of the British Parliament, who had come to resume in due form, the old political authority of the Mother Country, and to direct us, ex cathedra, in the regulation of those very politi- cal concerns of which we fancied we had ac- quired the exclusive control by fighting through DISADVANTAGES. 29 that old Revolutionary War. You see, my dear friends, it was all a mistake : the whole thing is a cunningly devised fable ; there w T as no such man as George Washington, (face- tiously represented as the father of his coun- try ;) and there is no such country us America. The sooner we reconcile ourselves to the facts, the more comfortable we shall all be. Chris- topher Columbus, in the order of Providence, was a grand mistake — Even out of this new dilemma, desperate as it seems, there is a little magic fellow of a fan- tastic temper who can perhaps help us. Fancy is the young gentleman's name. We will in- vite him to go along with us through New York City, and he may be able here and there,, (for he has the power,) to beguile us into the belief that there is something worth looking at in this Domestic Panorama. In truth 30 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. it is that lively person that has had, I believe, most to do in getting up the speculation ; and for the time being we must all become, for pro- fit's sake, dealers in fancy stock. "Which shall be the first division of our Picture ? BROADWAY. This is Broadway, ladies and gentlemen. A wonderful highway, is it not ? Old and know- ing, and what stories it could tell of the sights and the people it has seen and known ? If we were out of temper we could rail at you, Broadway, by the hour. What scamp of high or low degree ! — what hard-hearted woman of fashion — what knavish politician — what pompous man of wealth — small official — blackleg — what painted bawd, or smooth-faced hypocrite — what idealess dandy or sickly girl of sentiment — in a word what form of folly or crime have you not lent yourself to — made much of? Giving the benefit of your sunshine and promenade-side to every one of them in BROADWAY. 31 their newest gloss. Oh, the villains thou hast entertained, Broadway ! The men of pretence ! newly arrived Viscounts ! returned exquisites ! celebrities, notorieties, infamies of every color and degree ! And yet, turning to the other side of the ledger, there is a large credit for thee, for thou hast shown us the great-bearded Turk, John Chinaman, the Choctaw in his blanket, prophets, long-haired reformers, and whatever else of strange and wonderful in char- acter, the world could furnish. Thou hast the first of everything — of a General returned from victory — of a night procession with its flaming torches — the long funerals — it is you that open wide your arms and give a welcome to great men from every quarter of the land. No matter what the complexion of their politics ; it's all the same to you You look with an equal pride, an equal smile of satisfaction upon Webster, and Jackson, on Scott and Clay. Has any man ever undertaken to estimate the notabilities, who have been irretrievably swal- 32 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. lowed up in its ever flowing wave ! Of a few of the humbler we can recollect within the few past years, that dietetic phenomenon, the gin- ger-bread man, who, in spite of the energetic buttoning of his coat to the throat, and the enormous strides he was used to take, was overtaken and submerged. And Posthlewaite Page, the mighty calculator of the functions of A in the tap of a beer-barrel, as affecting the sidereal system, where is he ? And Nazro, that modest inculcator of Hebrew at 100,000 doubloons per lesson? The long-bearded man with the inexhaustible long nine ? And the white-wash man ? Alas ! these have all per- ished from the sight ! Strange to say, although this mighty medium for the exhibition of all that is singular and eccentric, Broadway cannot claim a single pe- culiarity for itself. There is not a single fea- ture by which you can define it — no one qual- ity by which it is distinguishable from the com- monest street. You can say of it, it is a great BROADWAY. 33 sheet of glass, through which the whole world is visible as in a transparency. In fact, rest you content in New York, and making a pil- grimage from time to time to this thoroughfare, I will engage, you shall see in due succession, whatever your heart is set on. The world will come to you, from every part, in Broadway. You have heard, perhaps, of an elephant in Siam of exceeding size, wonderful docility, the temper of an angel — you would give a finger to have a sight of him : one day a trumpet is blown, you prick up your ears and making for Broadway behold " Siam," just arrived, and marching in state at the head of a caravan. The celebrated Musical College of La Scala, Milan, is in high enthusiasm with the singing of Signorina Luni. Shall we ever hear her ? will her countrymen part with her ? You fear, never. A turn of the wheel, and the Signorina is seen through a coach-window, taking her first drive in America, in Broadway. So of dancers, jugglers, lords, marchionesses, panoramas, cos- 34 FEN- AND INK TANORAMA. moramas, dancing birds. In questions of apparel, Broadway has an equal variety and preference ; if there's a peculiar hat born and and worn in Bond-street, London ; a new re- volutionary blouse in Paris ; an extraordinary pair of trousers in Berlin ; or a special style of beard among the Persians ; or Russian whis- kers, or Itoman moustache — in its season, and when each has attained its ripeness — look for it in Broadway, and you shall find it. The whole world, once in the course of its life, flocks to Broadway ! And yet nothing sticks. There is not in all Broadway a memorable building — (shall we except Trinity Church and Mr. Stewart's Dry Goods Store ?) — not a mon- ument — not a sight worth the seeing ! It s chief characteristic is that all things shall be brought to a certain well-bred and immovable level. Mark the passengers : not as the people in other democratic precincts, scrambling freely about, dashing to right and left, taking across the way at an angle — but all moving in BROADWAY. 35 a right line, to the right up, to the right down. All dressed in about the same decent habili- ments, all carrying heads up, and observing the decorum of the street with due gravity and steadiness. Broadway never, or rarely, has its gentlemanly propriety disturbed by the rush of a fire-engine, or a drove of cattle, or the tramp of a target excursion. For real life, and the display of numbers, Broadway is in full force through Sunday, and with an increased power on Sunday evening. It is then that the nice dressing of New-York- ers is to be seen in the highest perfection — a solid mass from Grace Church to the Battery — a perfect Mississippi, with a double current up and down, of glossy broadcloth and unblem- ished De Laines. An army on the march to battle could not move with stricter precision — a procession of monks and nuns bound convent- ward, with more sacred gravity. New York in Broadway, on that day, makes a mighty 36 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. sacrifice to solemnity, requiting itself a little in the evening by stepping aside into the shops and gardens, and revelling in innumerable ice- creams. It is above all other streets, localities, and positions, the test of respectability. If you can touch your hat to fifty people in Broadway, your character is " o. k.," — you are an estab- lished man. But beware of " cuts." They are dealt about in that thoroughfare with an awful profusion. If you are in doubt about yourself, if you are under a cloud, if your hat is rusty, or your coat u going," if you have been para- graphed as having failed, or as involved in any little unfortunate matter, shun Broadway as you would a fire. You will be shot down on your first appearance like an outlaw. You will not have a minute's mercy allowed you. You will not pass ten steps before some kind gentle- man, suddenly oblivious of your countenance, will bring home to you painfully a sense of BROADWAY. 37 your miserable condition. Till Fortune be- friend you, sneak through the side streets. There are hundreds and thousands in New York who cannot live out of Broadway : who must breathe its air at least once in the day, or they gasp and perish. They are creatures of conventionality, whose chief enjoyment in this world, is to have certain hats touched to them every day of their life in Broadway. This is their morning's anticipation, their evening's reminiscence; and when, at length, they find this world and its affairs closing upon them, they call a confidential friend to their bedside and whisper in his ear, as they are goiiig, " Let the funeral go through Broadway !" This is the American Museum, la-dies and gentlemen, spitted at the fork of the City Park. Did you ever hear of a gentleman named Bar- num ? Perhaps you would like to know a lit- tle more ? Well, I shall therefore treat you forthwith to 38 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. AN AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT OF P. T. BARNUM, ESQ. It is a favorite notion of ours, that artists, soldiers, and poets — the learned professions and the legislatures — do not exclusively pos- sess all the best talent of the world. Sustained by observation of men in the various walks of life, we do not hesitate to assert that no small share of what is called genius is engaged in the every-day business of buying and selling. Without intending to stimulate their vanity and prompt them to cherish an undue idea of their own importance, we point to the men most conspicuous before the world for business enterprise — whatever its sphere — and ask wmether these individuals are not strongly marked in the career which they have respect- ively shaped out for themselves, as Daniel "Webster, Michael Angelo, or my Lord Byron ? To test the question fairly, we would take them in pursuits which are not at all heroic in their PHINEAS T. BARNUM, ESQ. 39 nature, and where nothing but a native energy and originality in scheming, could have secured success and a large return. Mr. Barnum, for instance, of the Museum, began with a few shells, and two or three stuffed animals ; he is now known and recognized all over the world. Another, from the humble starting point of a mere confectionery, like Mr. H. Wild, sets out on a brilliant course of achievement in panorama, . poetical handbill, and sugared statuary, (all of which centres round his business,) of which that modest beginning seems scarcely capable. Has any one read Mr. Bartol, the shade paint- er's admirable treatise on landscape and the beautiful, as applied to the proper decoration of window screens ? Take these alone, for the present, and they are but leaders among many like them ; and we confidently ask, what but an originality of character as unquestionable as that shown by men of genius, recognized by the world, could have wrought so much from so little ? It is true they have been wise — in 40 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. this, wiser than the Grecian Hero — in securing the Press for their historian. Here they con- stantly announce their mighty schemes, record their victories, and secure the transmission to the latest posterity, of the wonders they are doing, and meaning to do. Change their dress — put cocked hats on their heads — an army behind, or an audience before them, and you would have in Barnum, Wild, and Bartol, a Napoleon, a Byron, and a Demosthenes. It is dress and circumstance only, that make the difference between these, our worthy fellow- citizens, and the most renowned men of past Every community, in the natural course of events, demands an individual who shall take upon himself all sorts of extraordinary achieve- ments in the way of public amusements : who will advertise largely in all the newspapers ; set great banners flying from the house-top ; display enormous pictures of whales and giants; who will catch intolerable anacondas ; and PHTNEAS T. BARNUM, ESQ. 41 nurse unwonted fat boys up to the highest mark of heft and rotundity; who will crowd the streets, and distract the walkers therein, with transparencies and musical vans : in a word, every great community needs a Barnum : and New York is fortunate in having him. And we hold it as utterly impossible for Barnum to have become Barnum without a genius for it, as for Captain Post to bottle Horse-Ea dish with- out corks. There was a touch of the melo- dramatic — a fine effect — connected with this eminent gentleman's origin; for he was born at Bethel Village, in Connecticut, which w 7 as burnt by the British in the War of the Eevolution. Young Barnum, however, had no hand in the fire. There is a big Elm tree, by the old Earm House, of an exceeding bright green ; and Barnum, in his later prosperity, having re-pur- chased it, it is now the residence of Mrs. Barnum, the elder, the mother of E. T. The proprietor of the American Museum, was born, as might have been expected, next door to the 42 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA Fourth of July : to wit, on the 5th of that month, in the year 1810. "When about fourteen years of age, being at the time in receipt of a couple of dollars a month as clerk in a store, and holding his fath- er's due bill for some eleven dollars, the estate proving insolvent, young Barnum was com- pelled by the executors to pay out of his later earnings for the very shoes he wore to his fath- er's funeral. An extraordinary example of the stony-heartedness of executors, and the "No- you-don't-put-me-down" power of young genius. We next find Barnum, fall fourteen years of age, clerk in the store of a fellow-townsman at Brooklyn ; when, after snuffing the roguery of the neighboring metropolis of New- York for a couple of years, he returned to Danbury, where, with a fast developing faculty for some- thing on a grander scale, something pictorial, like stage-scenery, he at once opened a Confec- tionery and Fruit Shop — passing from that PHINEAS T. BARNUM, ESQ. 43 rapidly to a Dry Goods Shop, with calicoes of tremendous patterns ; (with a little parenthesis here, at the age of seventeen, in groceries :) and when all the Danbury world is wondering what Barnum will do next, he flies in a light wagon to New- York, and gets married ; sorely against the consent of his excellent mother, for Phineas is yet without the dollars necessary for the proper maintenance of a household. It is but a little while that private life can hold such a spirit ; it is always bursting to get out — and when in '30 and '31a great religious excitement came into Bethel, Barnum was there, and rose up, like one man, against what he conceived to be its unheard-of enormities. Rushing to the press, with characteristic im- petuosity, he demanded to be allowed to enter his protest in the county paper — in a case where a man had brained his children, (upon a supposed commission from Heaven,) and his wife jumped out of a window, because she was not willing to regard herself as included in the 44 PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. said commission. The local Journalist set down his foot, and flatly refused : Barnum lifted up his — he did not kick the cowardly local Journalist — but walked away, and made immediate preparations to publish an opposi- tion paper. With a thundering motto from Thomas Jefferson, the new " Herald of Free- dom" loomed upon the horizon, in a short fort- night from the insolent and diabolical refusal of the local Journalist to right Barnum. The Herald was conducted by young Phineas three years, in the course of which period he fell into a furious libel quarrel with the venerable Judge Dagget, which occasioned the immurement of the fearless champion of popular rights in a gloomy dungeon. He lingered there the allot- ted time, when he was called for at the prison- door by some 15,000 people, or so — borne to the very Court House where he had been (per- haps) ignominiously sentenced, where he de- livered, (it is said) one of the most masterly PHINEAS T. BAPwNUM:, ESQ. 45 vindications of the Freedom of the Press, which has ever been heard in Bethel. Immediately after this triumphant vindica- tion of the Eights of the People, Barnum (still young, and in the very prime of his powers,) engaged in the sale of Lottery Tickets, in which he was known to clear $1000 a day, by sub- agencies alone. He made an immense hit by the sale of one of the great Prizes ; which, in the joyful enthusiasm of the moment, prompted him to entertain his fellow-citizens at a grand public dinner, where he offered them a splendid opportunity to realize fortunes, by disposing of five hundred dollars worth of tickets in ac- commodating lots. All this time, however, he informs us, he hankered after caravans, wild beast shows, and public exhibitions generally. He was fearfully stirred up whenever he fell in with one of the large-sized circus handbills, and could not sleep for several nights. Much as he had accomplished — hard as he had fought in the dry-goods shop — in the vindication of 46 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. the freedom of the press, and in the sale of lot- tery tickets, (and all this before he had at- tained his 30th year !) Mr. Barnum had not yet had an opportunity to appear before the world in his real character ; the most success- ful contriver and caterer of public amusements that ever has lived or ever will live in all the rolling ages of time. His head was teeming — this was in 1836 — with all sorts of brilliant con- ceptions and daring designs, when one day, traveling along the borders of Western Ken- tucky, somewhere back of Louisville, on the look-out for wonders, he came upon a miserable little old hovel, with a miserable little old woman in it, all by herself. This little old woman was black, and with a decision stri- kingly characteristic of the man, Mr. Barnum promptly made up his mind to two points, that she was about one hundred and fifty years old, and had been the nurse of Washington. Being clear on these two points himself, his next step was to satisfy the public. Having taken his ESQ. 47 determination to do so at all hazards, he pur- chased the little old black woman from a gentle- man who appeared to be her owner ; her name was Joyce Heath, and this was the name which Mr. Barnum had inserted in the bill of sale he drew upon parchment, (the original must have been lost or mislaid,) to the father of George Washington. To take away the suspicion of any fraud or deception on his part, Mr. Barnum steeped the parchment in tobacco juice, and smoked it for some time over a slow fire, which gave it the appearance of an ancient deed. To heighten the effect, Mr. Barnum employed a small boy, by the day, to open and fold the parchment, so as to convey the idea of its having been frequently handled in the course of the century during which it had been in existence. The hearty welcome with which the aged and venerable nurse of Washington was received, wherever she ap- peared, cannot be forgotten. Mr. Barnum was regarded as a great public benefactor, and 48 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. took in large sums of money at the doors of all the public exhibitions where the venerable Joyce appeared. The throngs of people who everywhere attended the interesting conversa- tions she held on religion with learned divines, and her very many satisfactory interviews with men of great scientific insight, satisfied her that she was somewhere about one hundred and fifty years old. Mr. Barnum was satisfied, (every deduction being fairly made) that she could not have been at that time less than sixty ; a most careful post-mortem examination by an eminent surgeon, in the presence of some fourteen hundred anxious witnesses, singularly enough sustained this view of the age of Mrs. Heath. It would give us vast delight to dwell upon the after course of Mr. Barnum, from this brilliant starting point ; his purchase of steamboats, of the grand contest presented and matured by him, between the celebrated Signor Vivalla, and Boberts, the native plate-spinner ; his connection with a circus company, with PHINEAS T. BARNUM, ESQ. 49 Diamond, the flower of negro dancers, (who bloomed and blossomed under the auspices of Barnum,) of his agency for the United States for Sears' Pictorial Bible, the great sign of which, lately to be seen at the corner of Beek- man and Nassau streets, in this city, is of Bar- num's own devising ; of his establishment of the American Museum on its present popular foundation ; of the wonderful, mysterious, and imposing triumphs of Barnum with Tom Thumb ; his grand climax in the late engage- ment of Jenny Lind ; his enlargement of the Museum to an entertainment of the first class, which is open at this time — these are matters blazoned every day in the newspapers, where this man of restless activity and untiring in- vention, keeps the public on the alert, allowing them not a moment's peace, but opening their eyes every morning to something new, some- thing more wonderful. There is but one Barnum, and the world (we are satisfied,) will never live to see another. 50 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. Spare a moment to visit the American Mu- seum. What have we here ? THE HAPPY FAMILY. An ingenious old fellow, by the name of iEsop, has happily embodied a History of Human Nature and its chief motives and pas- sions, in a series of fancy-scenes where birds and beasts are the principal characters. No- body ever pretended that YEsop was an actual witness to these conversations, or that they ever actually occurred. The modern succes- sor of the old fable-maker, who is to be found at the American Museum at all hours, day and evening, " without extra charge," has pushed the scheme a step further, and brings directly before us in a large wire cage, the entire com- pany of performers. AVe have observed the young man closely, and have attentively sur- veyed his collection, and if we are not grossly mistaken, Barnum's iEsop is quite as sly and deep as his ancient predecessor. He is evi- THE HAPPY FAMILY. 51 dently a man of satirical disposition, and in visiting the country at this time had a motive which any man may discern with half an eye in his head. He has a little moral to enforce (aside from wages,) and he has skilfully chosen his time. If we have read the graphic an- nouncement of the small bills aright, and if our eyes — which are generally true to us on such occasions — have not egregiously deceived us, in the inspection which we made on a late afternoon, you all, free citizens of the United States, are interested in the exhibition of the hundred trained animals and birds of the most diverse characters ; yet all to be found, in singular association, in the same inclosure. When we mention that in this country a Presidential Election is always approaching, and call your recollection to the strange inter- mingling of parties, the odd combinations of per- sons, and the pie-bald and party-colored appear- ances which present themselves in every direc- 52 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. tion, suddenly associating " on terms of lasting friendship and amity" — you will understand at once that this Happy Family of birds and beasts at the Museum is but a type of the political condition of the country. Here we have them all in a cage, Whigs, Democrats, Free Soilers, Webster men, Hards, Softs, Scott men, Lot men, Free and Inde- pendent, Tide-Waiters, Natives, Liberty men, Higher Law and Lower Law, Eegulars and Irregulars — each one by his representative. In this singular assemblage, says our modern iEsop — we follow his announcement literally — are to be found bear, racoon, opossum, mon- keys, squirrels, cats, rats, dogs, rabbits, guinea pigs, hawks, owls, parrots, pigeons, partridges, blackbirds, (genuine Free-soilers, no doubt,) and others in great variety. And for a graphic picture from the hand of a master, of the delightful aspect of a nomina- ting convention, just on the eve of passing their " unanimous resolve." This Happy THE HAPPY FAMILY. 53 Family, continues the small bill, although op- posed to each other — born enemies — neverthe- less live together as happy as a bride and bridegroom during the honey-moon. The weak are without a fear, and the strong without a disposition to injure. Several monkeys and other animals are constantly performing a variety of strange and laughable manoeuvres, and you see the game dog caressing squirrels; rats and cats in friendly intercourse ; hawks doing the amiable to young pigeons ; and owls brooding over mice as lovingly as if they were juvenile owlets, fresh from the shell. It is (in conclusion,) the most extraordinary instance of the annihilation of antipathies for the common good, and must be witnessed to be appreciated. "While the Museum is as lively as it can be with its wonders, let us step forth and take note of one or two little histories which w 7 e en- counter by the way-side. 54 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. It does not require a long journey in this mighty metropolis of ours — with its thousand currents dashing hither and thither — to come upon some little rill or offsetting stream of life, which shall distinguish itself from the rest, and engage the attention. There are little his- tories by the way-side, quite as well worth reading as the great volumes of national poli tics and commerce. Strolling along at leisure in the welcome sunshine, we begin by espying, seated in the sun, upon a druggist's shop-step, a little fellow, sound asleep, with his head resting on the handle of a basket. His face is as calm as the late Nicholas Biddle's, when it approached most nearly the blandness of a " summer morn- ing.'' It is in the heart of Broadway, and the omnibusses rattle by unheeded: the church bells ring, elegant women, and quick-moving men glide by — and even high above all, (an- other strange sight for Broadway, too,) an old woman raises her voice, " Yher's your good WAY-SIDE HISTOraES. 55 'East !" He sleeps unmoved, and seems by his smiling looks to have pleasant dreams. God bless the child, whatever his future fortunes may be ! And here we have, resting on the curb of St. Paul's church-yard, opposite the gay Mu- seum, a pale woman in black, holding her head upon her hands and sitting mournfully and closely veiled. Ah ! what a history of sorrow and heart grief is there ! Not in one chapter, hastily written, soon begun, and soon ended — but a long, wearisome story — told by day, told by night, on Sabbath and week-day, in fast and feast — alone, and in the crowd — at home, and far away. The spectre, who is the historian of her troubles, follows her still, keeps at her back, is in her eye, in her mind — it is the image of her Lost Virtue, a fearful apparition, which no earthly power can lay, and which will only fade from her view (and then, forever, let us hope,) with the closing light of the world ! 56 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. Up the street we go ! Fancy suggests to us just here, to step inW that high -shouldered building on the corner of Leonard-street, in remembrance of an odd little friend of ours, a notable New-York char- acter, recently deceased. Gently cross the threshold, and lay aside the hat, in memory of LITTLE TRAPPAN. Tenderly let us deal with the memory of the dead — though they may have been the hum- blest of the living ! Let us never forget that though they are parted from us, with a recollec- tion of many frailties clinging about their mortal career, they have passed into a purer and bet- ter light, where these very frailties may prove to have been virtues in disguise — a grotesque tongue to be translated into the clear speech of angels when our ears come to be purged of the jargon- sounds of worldly trade and seltish fashion. While we would not draw from house- hold concealments into the glare of general LITTLE TRAPPAN. 57 notice any being whose life was strictly private, we may, with unblamed pen, linger for a mo- ment, in a hasty but not irrespective sketch, over the departure of one whose peculiarities — from the open station he held for many years — were so widely known, that no publi- city can affront his memory. Thousands will be pleased sorrowfully to dwell with a quaint regret over his little traits and turns of char- acter, set forth in their true light by one who wished him well while living, and who would entomb him gently now that he is gone. Whoever has had occasion, any time, for the last ten years, to consult a file of newspapers at the rooms of the New York Society Library, must remember a singular little figure which presented itself, skipping about those precincts with a jerky and angular motion. He must recollect in the first half-minute after entering, when newly introduced, having been rapidly approached by a man of slender build, in a frock coat, low shoes, a large female head in a 58 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. cameo in his bosom, an eye-glass dangling to and fro ; and presently thrusting into his very face a wrinkled countenance, twitchy and pe- culiarly distorted, in (we think it was) the left eye. This was little Trappan himself, the superintendent of the rooms, and arch-custodian of the filed newspapers : who no doubt asked you sharply on your first appearance, rising on one leg, as he spoke : " Well, sir, what do you w T ant ?" This question was always put to a debutant with a sternness of demeanor and severity of tone, absolutely appalling. But wait a little and you will see the really kind old gentleman softening down, and meek as a lamb, leading you about to crop of the sweetest bunches his garden of preserves could furnish. It was his way only : and, while surprised into admira- tion of his new T suavity, you were lingering over an open paper which he had spread before you with alacrit}', you were startled into a fresh and greater wonder, at the uprising of a LITTLE TRAPPAN. 59 voice in a distant quarter, shouting, roaring almost in a furious key, and demanding with clamorous passion — " "Why the devil gentlemen couldn't conduct themselves as gentlemen, and keep their legs off the tables !" Looking hastily about, you discover the little old man, planted square in the middle of the floor, firing hot shot and rapid speech, in broad- sides, upon a doubled-up man, half on a chair, and half on the reading-table — with a perfect chorus of eyes rolling about the room from the assembled readers, centering upon the little figure in its spasm. Silence again for three minutes, and all the gentlemen present are busy with the afternoon papers, (just come in) when suddenly a second crash is heard, and some desperate, unknown mutilator of a file — from which an oblong, three inches by an inch and a half is gone — is held up to the scorn, con- tumely, and measureless detestation of the civi- lized world. The peal of thunder dies away, 60 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. and with it the spare figure has disappeared at a side door, out of the Reading Room into the Library : but it is not more than a couple of minutes after, that the Reading Room tal are alive with placards, bulletins, and announce- ments in pen and ink, variously requiring, im- ploring, and warning frequenters of the room against touching said files with unholy hands. These are no sooner set and displayed, than the irrepressible Superintendent is bending over some confidential friend at one of the tables, and making him privately and fully ac- quainted with the unheard of outrages which require these violent demonstrations. And yet a kind old man was he ! We drop a tear much more promptly — from much nearer the heart — over his lonely grave, than upon the tomb of even men as great and distin- guished as the City Aldermen, who once wel- comed Father JIathew among us with such enthusiasm. Little Trappan had his ways, and they were not bad ways — take them altogether. LITTLE TRAPPAN. 61 He cherished his ambition as well as other men. ■i It was an idea of his own — suggested from no foreign source, prompted by the movement of no learned society — to make a full, comprehen- sive and complete collection of all animated creatures of the bug kind taken within the walls and in the immediate purlieus of the building, (for such he held the edifice of the New York Society to be par excellence.) This led him into a somewhat more active way of life than he had been used to, and involved him in climbings, reachings-forth of the arms, rapid scurries through apartments, in pursuit of flies, darning-needles, bugs, and beetles, which, we sometimes thought, were exhausting too rapidly the scant vitality of the old File-keeper. He however achieved his object in one of the rarest museums of winged and footed creatures to be found anywhere. We believe he reckoned at the time of his demise, twenty-three of the beetle kind, fourteen bugs and one mouse in his depository. In one direction he was foiled. 62 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. There was a great bug, of the roach species, often to be seen about the place — a hideously ill-favored and ill-mannered monster — which, with a preternatural activity seemed to possess the library in every direction — sometimes on desk, sometimes on ladder, tumbling and roll- ing about the floor — and perpetually, with a sort of brutish instinct of spite, throwing him- self in the old man's way, and continually thwarting his plans. And he was never, with all his activity and intensity of purpose, able to capture the great bug and stick a pin through him, as he desired. This, we think, wore upon the old man and finally shortened his days. It is not long since that the little superintendent yielded up the ghost. We hope some friend to his memory will succeed in mastering the bug, and in carrying out the (known) wishes of the deceased. This curious and rare collection was, how- ever, but a subordinate object in the ambition of the bite excellent superintendent. It was a LITTLE TRAPPAN. 63 desire of his — the burning and longing hope of his life — to found a library which should be in some measure worthy of the great city of New York. With this object in view, he made it a point to frequent all the great night auc- tions of Chatham-street, the Bowery, and Park Eow : and he scarcely ever returned of a night without bringing home some rare old volume or pamphlet not to be had elsewhere for love or money — which nobody had ever heard of before — and which never cost him more than twice its value. He seemed to have acquired his peculiar taste in the selection and purchase of books from that learned and renowned body, the trustees of the Society Library, with which he had been so long associated. It has been supposed by some that he was prompted in his course by a spirit of rivalry with the parent institution. There is some plausibility in this conjecture, for at the time of his death he was pushing it hard — having accumulated in the course of ten years' diligent devotion of 64 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. the odd sums he could spare from meat and drink and refreshment, no less than three hun- dred volumes, pamphlets, and odd numbers of old magazines. We suppose, in acknowledg- ment of a generous emulation, it is the inten- tion of the Trustees to place a tablet to his memory on the walls of the Parent Institution. There is a single other circumstance con- nected with the career of the deceased super- intendent scarcely worth mentioning. It is perhaps, too absurd and frivolous to refer to at all : and to save ourselves from being held in light esteem by every intelligent reader, and impelling him to laugh in our very face, we shall be obliged to disclose it tenderly, and under a generality. A character so marked and peculiar as Little Trappan, (Old Trap, as he was familiarly called,) could have scarcely failed to attract more or less, the attention of the observers of human nature. They would have spied the richness of the land, and dwelt with lingering LITTLE TRAPPAN. 65 pleasantry on his little traits of character and disposition from day to day. And it would have so happened that among these he could not have escaped the regard of men who made it a business to study, and to describe human nature in its varieties. For instance, if Little Trappan had been, under like circumstances, a denizen of Paris, he might, probably, long before this, have figured in the quaint notices of Jules Janin; Hans Christian Andersen would have taken him for a god-send in Stock- holm : Thackeray must have developed him we can readily suppose, with some little change, in one of his brilliant sketches or stories. Then what a time we should have had of it ! Such merry enjoyment, such peals of hon- est laughter, over the eccentricities of little old Trap ; such pilgrimages to the library to get a glimpse of him f such paintings by painters of his person; such sketches by sketchers; such a to-do all round the world ! But it was his great and astounding misfortune to belong 66 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. to this miserable, wo-begone, and fun-forsaken city of New York, and to have fallen, as we are told, (though we know nothing about it) into the hands of nobody but a wretched American humorist, who, it is vaguely re- ported, has made him the hero of a book of some three hundred and fifty pages — as in a word — New York is New York^Little Trap- pan, Little Trappan — and the author a poor devil native scribbler — why, the less said about the matter the better ! We trust, however, his friendly rivals, the trustees of the library, will be good enough to erect the tablet ; if not they will oblige us by passing a resolution on the subject. And now, ladies and gentlemen, if you please, we will stroll up the street. "What have we announced here with such a display of body, legs, and tail, on a canvas which covers the whole house-side ? " The THE HAIRLESS HORSE. 67 Horse without any hair on his tail !" A friend of ours asserts, (we have never seen the wonder for ourselves,) that he has had a private inter- view with this horse without any hair on, w T ho is stabling for the present, in Broadway, near Houston-street, next door to that prime house of entertainment, " The Eldorado." (We strongly suspect our friend has been indulging at that house.) He asserts that he had it direct from the horse himself, that he is naturally pro- vided with as good a coat of hair as any decent beast that lives. That he w 7 as taken in his youth and shaved to the very hide, with the hope that the hair would never come back again ; that it does come back, and will keep coming back ; but as the proprietors were de- termined to have a " hairless horse," they gave out that they had one ! The consequence is, (continued the' horse, as reported by this gentleman,) I have no peace of my life. To keep me clean-shaved, I am followed about wherever I go, by a regiment of barbers, who 68 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. are constantly at me with their razors and tweezers, so that I am half the time flayed alive. These fellows are now behind that little screen you see there, and the visitors' backs are no sooner turned than they rush out, lather me from snout to tail, and commence peeling me with their razors. Don't believe a word of it. I am (in spite of the handbills) a humbug ! a catchpenny ! and not a natural curiosity ! Nor am I a hairless horse, caught in South America by the celebrated Indian Crossman, whom you can now see in Broadway, third door above Houston-street. Nor is this animal most beau- tiful to look at, and perfectly broke — without any hair — and looks like India rubber. I have, it is true, been seen by thousands of ladies and gentlemen ; but they have not — not one of them — expressed their surprise and satisfac- tion. The owner has not been offered six thousand dollars, and refused it. So much for the report of our curious friend. He has evidently been misled by that wicked DISBANDED LAMP-POSTS. 69 horse, who is, no doubt, a long-headed fellow, and wishes to get the sympathy of the public, and to secure more oats, and perfect liberty to run at large. He is hairless, for we have seen him with our own eyes, and there's not so much as an eyelash about the brute. As we may have a night scene or two before we are through our panoramic pilgrimage, and remembering that the moon is not always to be depended on, I dropped in the other morning upon the General Superintendent of Lamps for the City and County of New- York. While waiting in his office, we cast our eye into the yard, and discovered a great heap of disbanded wooden lamp posts — thrown out of use by the introduction of gas and the employment of iron posts. Such, said we, moralizing to ourselves., are the mutations of fortune : to-day, the Whigs are in power, and have all the good 70 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. gifts in their possession ; to-morrow it is the Democrats ; one hour the rich merchant carries his head high, as did these old lamp-posts, above the surrounding crowd — the next he is laid low with the common herd of the bank- rupt; beauty shines, like these, to-night, and when the morrow comes, she pales in age, and is extinguished forever ! "We did not, however, stop with these reflec- tions, but set ourselves upon thinking of the various stations these dead lamp-posts had oc- cupied in their time. How some had gloried in the glitter and throng of Broadway, while others had led a retired life in remote streets ; of the different scenes they had witnessed — from early evening, when the wan sempstress hies homeward, on through the night, as revel grows high and general. Some we fancied, from a peculiar twist of the neck, had been more observant than others. There was one — ■ a rusty, ragged, much-decayed gentleman — we were quite sure, had been a citizen and DISBANDED LAMP-POSTS. 71 looker-on upon affairs^ here in our island, as far back as the time of the old Kevolutionary war ; and we imagined, if he could but once speak, he would be able to tell strange stories of plots and counterplots, of secret dispatches read by his pale light, and rebel patriots and tory gen- erals gathered about his base. There was another, on which we thought we discovered traces of crimson stains, partially w 7 orn away or sunk into the w^ood. Ha ! — thought we — this fellow has seen a murder; and then we ran back, in our mind, to the time of Johnson, who, it will be remembered, stab- bed Murray, in an alley. He may, staggering into the street, have clutched with his blood- spotted hands, this very old lamp-post for support. A sudden turn was given to our reflections by seeing some fifty of these decayed gentle- men borne away on a cart, which immediately set our fancy in motion, to conceive whither they were going. Out of fashion and laid low 72 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. in the favor of the world, they were doubtless retiring to the suburbs of the town, there to set up for a season, to give light and comfort to the villagers — to watch and wait — to light and to be extinguished — till the advancing w T ave of civilization should once again sweep them from the earth, and bear them away still farther and farther westward, till, one day, we may chance upon some of these, our old acquaintances, illuminating the streets of San Francisco, on the furthest borders of the Pacific ! But let us get on apace with our Panorama ! Who is this that slouches past us, in rusty hat, dusty dress, and a dead cigar rolling like a dismasted spar from one side of his mouth to the other ? Small of person as he is, that is one of the most eminent of New- York notabili- ties — in a word, and in your ear, that is THE HORSE-RADISH ENTHUSIAST. 73 THE HORSE-RADISH ENTHUSIAST. When we were first told that there was a man in this city who had devoted himself to the interests of the humble, though high-flavor- ed plant known as the Horse-Radish ; that he believed in it ; had studied its qualities, and had given his life, from earliest youth, to its culture and circulation, we were, we confess, entirely incredulous. We had never seen the man and had some reasonable doubts of his existence. "We made diligent inquiry for his whereabouts — and were told that he kept his strong-hold and headquarters somewhere on the East River. Struck by the strangeness of the character described to us, and determined to settle, once for all, the question of his exist- ence or non-existence, we resolved on a pil- grimage of discovery in that remote section of the metropolis. Selecting a sunshiny morning, and appropriating to ourselves a seat in a Dry Dock stage, which would carry us, we were 74 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. told, somewhere in that vicinity, we set ou full of hopes and doubts as to the result of our venture. In a half hour's ride, and a walk of a quarter more, we found ourselves in the front of a building, ornamented with a painting at full length of a gallant sailor with hat in hand, supporting a banner, spread to the breeze, inscribed " A little more Horse-Eadish — Captain Post ;" and underneath in broad, un- mistakable capitals, " Our Motto — Eough and Keady — Our Country, Horse-Kadish and Liberty." Of course our curiosity was not a little aggravated to get a view of the man, who could thus in a broad expansive spirit, identify the diffusion of Horse-Radish with free institutions and the welfare of his native land. Besides the main picture we found a flag with similar devices flying from every win- dow and loop-hole of the house ; and in the open door of the main hall we espied a four- teen pound gun planted with a point blank range towards the entrance. " This man," we THE HORSE-RADISH ENTHUSIAST. 75 said to ourselves, " certainly sets a high value upon the plant he has taken under his protec- tion, since he appears to be prepared to protect it at the hazard of his life." On the proper inquiry we were ushered into a large back room, and as we found, into the presence of Captain Post himself, whom we discerned in the centre of a great swarm of small bottles with sealed tops, and holding in his hand an enormous root of the species of Radish in which he deals. Captain Post, to our pleased sur- prise, addressed us in the most affable and familiar manner, and from the first moment of our introduction to him, treated us as a friend and equal. There was a glow of satisfaction on his countenance, which was explained when we learned that the root he then had in his hand, was known to be the largest ever grown in America, and that ithad been raised directly under his own eye. Captain Post, in person is of small build, about the mould of the late Emperor of France, Napoleon Bonaparte, 76 THE TEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. and has a good deal of the quickness of eye and vivacity of countenance which distinguish- ed that eminent general. He has also, in his movements, a good deal of the rapidity and decision of character which marked Napoleon ; often getting a couple of dozen of the grated Radish into bottles be- fore breakfast ; and dispatching ten or twenty dozen to the down-town hotels in the course of the day. He takes a great interest, as might be perhaps expected, in our chief public houses, and speaks of the Astor House, American Hotel, and others of the larger ordinaries as one who wishes them well. That he does, is shown in the fact that he furnishes them con- stantly with Horse Radish, (a hundred small bottles apiece per week,) at a reasonable ad- vance on the manufacturing prices. In his domestic circle, and in all the intercourse of private life, Captain Post is much more amiable and gentle of deportment than we could hope to find one who spent the better part of his THE HORSE-RADISH ENTHUSIAST. 77 time — his most laborious and thoughtful hours — in the preparation and bottling of so stimu lating an article of diet — he is about thirty-five years of age, and has a long life of public use- fulness before him. When we consfaer closely the nature of his business — we will learn how much he has to do with our dearest interests " For," as he properly says, " this yer city of York would be sure to go to sleep if I didn't prick it up with the grated Radish, reg'larly." There is no doubt that something — if not a great deal — of the extraordinary activity of our citizens in business, which has made them famous all the world over, is ascribable to the piquant and lively qualities of Captain Post's admirable preparation. It is regarded by per- sons who have given attention to the subject, as decidedly the liveliest, and most wholesome Horse Radish that comes into market. As Captain Post is constantly visited by great numbers of strangers from all parts of the country — curious to see a man who has im- 78 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. parted so extraordinary a celebrity and inter- est to what many have regarded as a very humble esculent — a mere weed — we may men- tion, definitely, that he is to be found on the corner of j£venue C and Sixth-street — most at leisure — at about three in the afternoon, (when the main bottling of the day is through with,) and that persons arriving in carriages will find it to their convenience to set down with the horses' heads towards the new reservoir of the gas company at the foot of the street. The sun begins to decline a little upon our picture. We have had something of a tramp up and down, and I think that here, ladies and gentlemen, we may fairly treat ourselves to a short -holiday, and make an excursion of an hour or two into the country, for the sake of fresh air. The w r eather is delicious ; and by- the way, before we set out let me tell you that A SHORT EXCURSION. 79 capricious as it seems, New York furnishes a singular evidence of the constancy of Nature. Examining the other day some old books and records relating to the early history of our island, we found set down to its credit the self- same weather and climate which belong to it at this day in the good year of eighteen hun- dred and fifty-three. The same soft days of sunshine and summer creeping in upon the bleakness, and no doubt causing the Indian dames and warriors to skip along the heights and ridges, pretty much as do our fine ladies and exquisites on the promenade side of Broad- way. Even in the human nature of this island, some would say two hundred years of war, steam, and trade, had wrought no considerable change ; that in their essential qualities the men and women are the same; that the paint used by the squaw was only got out of the earth with her own hand, while that employed by the modern fine lady is procured from the store with her purse ; that the Indian-chief 80 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. dandy strutted in a blanket, while his Broad- way rival disports in a swallow-tail; and that if they were all (according to the old familiar illustration,) shaken in a sack together, the old sachem who had spent the prime of his life in scalping his neighbors, would have quite as good a chance of coming out first, as the Wall- street broker who devotes himself to the shav- ing of notes. And now we will set forth to enjoy part of 4N AFTERNOON NOT FAR FROM NEW YORK. Who knows when he tosses a copper in the air, whether it shall come down a naked " One Cent," or the bountiful goddess of Liberty ! A great poet has said there are but two mo ments in the life of a pearl-diver — the one, when he plunges, a beggar — the other when he rises, a prince ! But who can promise him self when he sets forth on an excursion of pleasure, that he shall bring back anything but A SHORT EXCURSION. 81 an aching bead, weary limbs, and a memory too tenacious of sandy roads, and a bad inn? There is a fortune in small things as well as great ; and as we push our course for a little way-side ferry on the North River, who would have assured us that we were to be gratified in the slightest degree, beyond the ordinary run of travellers, and the lean chances of mor- tality ? To-be-sure, there is something hope- ful in coming, whilst tarrying under the awn- ing, upon a candy dealer with his basket, who presents a marvellous and highly colored re- semblance or copy of a distinguished Ameri- can author — suggesting to us, in his basket of knick-knacks and small comfits, a happy parody of the dainty trifles with which his great ori- ginal has titivated the public any time these twenty years. The Hudson River, too, may be set down at any time of day or night, as a pretty sure card. You may hug yourself con- fidently on its waters with securing two or three cabinet pictures, a well executed land- 82 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA scape, and light and shadow of scenery near by and far off, not to be esteemed meanly. Aboard the boat, bound in due course for Fort Lee, up the river, we encounter baskets with spring-lids, in possession of sundry heavy- whiskered descendants of David, and which it is a sworn thing store something with a relish, from the awful eyes with which they are re- garded by the crew of boys and girls of the bread and butter age, who hover about, and who, whatever the crisis of affairs in the navi- gation, never once lose sight for a moment of the handles. No incident, so far, worth record- ing, till we approach Bull's Ferry, when, lo ! a long red streamer is discovered flying from a pole planted directly at the door of the public house at the landing ; as we near it, we read on the streamer " Ned Buntline's Own" — and spreading himself on the verandah we dis- cover a broad-chested man in a blue frock coat, with a military undress air — and lying, just off the shore, abreast the tavern, a yacht, with A SHORT EXCURSION. 83 another penon with a like inscription — from all of which we understand that a well-known city editor has taken possession of the neighbor- hood and holds court at the ferry, as the bar- ons of old at a castle of strength. Here, we are informed, he keeps his state, and makes merry with a crew of roysterers, on land by day, and in cruises by night. FalstafF and his route of followers come to life again ! What matters it whether we are of his inclining or not ? Whether we approve his organ of opin- ion in the city as orthodox or not ? We look upon the thing as it is. And here is a bit of fun under our very noses, in the heart of the busy nineteenth century, which teaches us something if we will take the trouble to look at it with our own eyes. A city editor has pitched his stronghold on the Jersey shore, and letting grow his fiery beard, snaps his fingers at the town, and puts at scorn and defiance, all the puissance of tip-staves, courts, and posses. We are, however, bound up the river, and 84 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. haven't the time allowed us to stop if we would. With a good head of steam (the captain has mounted a new hat this morning, and feels bound to do something extraordinary,) we pass in the awful repose of its shut-up and deserted inn, Tilletudlum the classic ; though why it is called Tilletudlum, rather than the village of Tompkinville, or the village of Small Beer, or Puddle-come-bung, we find laid down in none of the current guide books. Fort Lee at last, and the pick-nickers with their baskets ashore, mounting the acclivity they pitch themselves in the shade, directly in the lee — before the very door of the public house — for which there is no charge — and proceed to entertain the landlord with the sight of one of the best en- joyed banquets we have ever known. The landlord comes to the door once or twice and grins strangely, goes in, in haste, and presently an outcry is heard in the upper chamber — known by its peculiar character to belong to the landlord's oldest son undergoing a u lam- A SHORT EXCURSION. 85 ming," The pick-nickers hold on their course and laugh louder than ever. They propose to leave the crumbs on the lawn, that it may not be forgotten that they have been there. There is a company of dancers from the city on the other side of the house, who are perhaps dancing to the same purpose. We have seen something, but not all yet — we might sit a long afternoon, with our cigar, under the awning, watching the sloops that come and go, speeding past, like dreams, with their spread sails — but the cigars we have with us are of that temper which will neither light nor go out — neither tobacco — nor weed — nor stick — utterly, hopelessly, and irrecoverably impracticable, and such as it is the delight and glory of sinful dealers to sell, with a hope or perhaps inward consciousness that they are to be attempted remote from civilized life, and all prospect of relief; and that distant woods and solitudes shall be made vocal with long, loud, 86 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. and unrestrained curses in acknowledgment of their wicked craft. We must tramp it back, part of the way at least, by the woods. It is discussed whether to Tilletudlum or Bull's Ferry, and is pre- sently concluded that no power of foot could attain the lower landing before the boat would shoot by. To Tilletudlum then in a gentle jog — when to our horror off goes the bell, which we supposed had a half hour at least to spare and keep quiet in — and we are forced to push on at a bouncing pace or lodge in the woods. In a breathing space we sit down in the solitude of that village, or rather villa of mighty name : and have the satisfaction of noticing the steamer lying quietly at her wharf, not having, in spite of all her notification, stir- red a peg as yet. She comes along bye-and- bye, and when w r e are once aboard, w T e suppose she is bound to New-York. No such thing. She espies a hat and petticoat on the hill — more hats — more petticoats — and the road as A SHORT EXCURSION. 87 far as you can see, is alive with trampers, (another party of pick-nickers from the back country who have been startled in their revelry, and are making for the boat for dear life.) At the head of the line, watched anxiously in his mighty paternal struggle, a middle-aged gentle- man in white breeches is espied, dragging on with the speed of an Eclipse and the energy of a Hercules, a wicker-wagon by a pole. It is his first-born, and to do the poor man jus- tice, he toils down the slope like a giant. All hands in the boat are assembled at the rails to welcome him in, should he reach the boat in time ; but modest, as worthy — (lost sight of for a moment at a toil -gate on the road) — he has resigned the pole to a female hand, and tries to look about, as he comes aboard, as if he had no connection with the wicker- wagon whatever. It is now discovered, as they infuse them- selves among the old assortment of passengers, that the new-comers are rather distinguished 88 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. people ; and that they embellish the boat, be- sides their own delightful and tonnish persons, with sundry triangles, banjos, and tamborines, and a strong suspicion spreads about that they are from East Bowery, in their primitive estate. The presumption is raised that they may be sometimes seen in the pit of the Bow- ery Theatre, and that they are original read- ers of the cheap weeklies. They are at least so markedly peculiar in dress and appearance, as to color the company wherever they mingle with it. At first — the boat is under way — they are in a wonderful state of commotion, moving uneasily about, pushing and pulling each other freely, and indulging in a good deal of vigorous horse-play. The young ladies of the party go forward on the upper deck, where they encounter a spanking gale — which with the dilation of dress and coy development of form it occasions, brings on a decided increase of merriment in the party. At length, and all A SHORT EXCURSION. 89 at once, as if it were a sort of rocket shot into the air, a cry is raised, u Let's have a dance !" With precious little delay and still less cere- mony, an impromptu committee clears the deck, setting aside old women, and certain spare young men of the " aristocratic quarter," who are somehow on board, along with the stools, as if they were no more to them than so much dumb furniture in the way. The banjo and triangle take up their station against a post in the centre : two sets are formed and away they go. Free as air — zig-zag, with a dash and a fling — with more muscle expended in one shuffle than in a whole evening of a fashionable party — the young women half mad with zeal, they never stay at a single dance, but go right on, like a strong-chested reader, without minding colons, or periods, or ends of sentences — from one dance to another without taking breath. 11 Hallo ! There he is ! That's him !" " No, that ain't Neddy." "Yes it is!" "/know him !" and the dance is broken up in a hurry, 90 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. and all parties rush to the rail. The broad- chested man of Bull's Ferry, in the military undress, has come down from his post on the verandah, and is standing under a broad- brimmed hat on the wharf. " Three cheers for Neddy I" Three cheers are given which evi- dently throw the gigantic Edward into a doubt — he don't know whether they mean it or not — (the East Boweryites are fast practical jokers,) he slides off his hat, smiles sideways, and compromises the matter with a waive of his hand which may express " Much obliged, gentlemen !" or u No you don't !" just as you please to interpret it. Vigorous dances again without number, then negro songs attempted with doubtful success. A man-boy of the party with a crippled brown linen coat, and a hat of the kind generally worn by circus-men in their private character, undertakes a complicated melody, referring to one Tucker, fails, and withdraws down stairs, slightly chop-fallen and a good deal laughed at. A SHORT EXCURSION. 91 Other singers, with various fortunes, occupy the time, when presently Brown Coat returns and whispers to one of the party, the news, what- ever it is, spreads as if by electric telegraph, or faster — and the male portion of the company rise as one man, and rush below stairs. " Fight " proved to have been the magical summons — but it was merely a fetch of the Brown Coat, in revenge for his own misfortune. They were down there and they wouldn't go up for noth- ing — so they all take a drink at the bar. The ship most surely tossed must and may reach a port — and steamboats will get to the wharf, if you will have patience. Having in a single afternoon travelled twenty-two miles by water, and two by land — having seen and con- templated an indefinite range of scenery — hav- ing discovered at least four distinct varieties of character of the human species; havinglearned something new (as in the case of the Hebrew pic-nickers and the impracticable cigars,) of the artful selfishness of men, and (in the case of 92 THE PEN-AND-INK TANORAMA. the landlord's son,) of the unjust distribution of rewards and punishments in the world — with a vast deal more which the intelligent observer must fathom and disclose for himself — we have come to the conclusion that open a door wher- ever you will, whether it be closet or parlor, you are sure to come upon a store of strange sights, which will pay you well for the trouble of turning the knob. In town again, w 7 ith eyes sharpened by our holiday — let us follow our panorama as it moves along. Ladies and gentlemen, you have probably seen several historical paintings, and read a number of historical romances in your time with profound admiration ! Will you be good enough to look this way at THE NEW YORK FIREMAN. Mark the picture before you. It is the THE NEW YORK FIREMAN. 93 morning of a wide and fierce conflagration. The clouds are dull and sullen — the streets are bare. There is no pomp of banners, no music of chivalry, but a band of worn-out men are dragging on their faithful engine, grimed and sooty. At their head marches the fore- man, his leathern cap cased in ice of the frozen water, his breast with a mail of the same qual- ity, rope in hand, his trumpet hanging listlessly at his side. And so they pass on wearily and slowly, for they have not seen sleep nor known pause in their contest with the elements for two days' space. And now tell us, where in history or romance is to be found a picture of self-devotion and modest manliness, of forti- tude and courage like this ? No knight return- ing from the field, no victor-chief from battle, with gorgeous pennons and the plaudits of his people, presents to us a spectacle which more keenly touches our sympathies, and prompts us more readily to acknowledge the nobility of our nature, than the sight of these brave 94 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. Firemen, returning to their homes in the weary morning. In the famous Middle Ages, ladies and gentlemen, there was a man who separated himself from society, put his head in a steel cask, his body in a steel jerkin, and his feet in stirrups, and? pricked forth through Europe, with his lance, to rescue damsels, quell drag- ons, and do the work of righteousness gener- ally — at his own charges. This ancient cheva- lier for a long time lived in history, an example of pure benevolence and disinterested virtue, without a successor. In fact it was not till the Nineteenth Century, and in the city of New York, that one having anything like rival claims, w r as to be found. This more recent night- errant encases his head in a leathern cap, his body in a red flannel shirt, and with turned-up trowsers and heavy boots, rushes forth, on foot, to do execution, without hire or reward, on that fiery dragon Combustion itself The only pure specimen extant, of the unadulter- THE NEW YORK FIREMAN. 95 ated man of benevolence of modern times, and the present mixed state of society, is the Fire- man. What motive has he ? — what motive can he have, (unless pure madness,) in rushing from his bed at midnight, snatching at his clothes, tumbling down stairs, and in a half distracted condition pulling foot for the engine- house, tearing open its doors, hustling out the machine, and seizing the rope, hurrying away at the rate of ten miles an hour, shouting him- self hoarse by the way, " Fire — F ire — Fire ! Fire ! Fire !" — throwing himself like a sala- mander into the very thickest of the raging element — and in a couple of hours walking home to bed, sweating like a porpoise ? We look upon a Fireman, in his disinterest- ed integrity, as all that survives uninjured from the golden age of Man, a truly noble character, despite his errors. To-be-sure some little remains of mortal frailty hang about the Fire boy. People of a censorious turn have said he loves a smasher — rather stiff. He is 96 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. seen often in company with a strong-flavored long-nine. He cocks his hat upon his head in a manner a little irksome to the strictest taste. He sometimes chews : and, perhaps, occasion- ally swears a little. It is one of the peculiari- ties into which he has no doubt fallen, from being pitched in the midst of the corrupt civi- lization of our times, that he hangs about corners at night, in gangs; and that somehow or other he slides with a marvelous rapidity into a " muss" or row. He even alleges that he must be indulged in one of these, now and then, or he will " spoil." But in the great, manly virtues — which the stony-hearted Nine- teenth Century has little faith in — of doing an immense amount of work for no pay — he " can't be beat." The number of houses, churches, theatres, hotels, buildings of every name and kind be has saved, without receiving a farthing of their rents or revenues, without being in the slight- est degree concerned in their title, no man can THE NEW YORK FIREMAN 97 count. The Fireman's personal graces are per- haps not in all cases quite equal to his goodness of heart. His knowledge of the Fine Arts may be rather limited — his acquaintance with Music being confined to the ring or roar of the City Hall Bell, and the jingle of the Hose Cart — for Pictures he may chiefly devote himself to the back-board or tail of the " machine" — - and as to Statuary, he has perhaps never given the slightest heed to more than one specimen, and that is the wooden Fireman with the trumpet in his mouth, (always a blowing,) over 15 in Chrystie-street. His carriage of his person in the street is peculiar — rather abroad, and in the style of movement sometimes of a heavy- footed Buffalo. This is an eccentricity all the inculcations and elegant directions of Mr. Parker at Tammany Hall have never been able to qualify. It belongs to the race, and will we suppose, last with it. " Clear the way there ! What do you mean 3 eh ! stopping the street, old feller ?" 98 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA* " None of your lip, leather head — I've cum on the track first — d'ye give away !" " Boys, stand by." Pop — smash — crash — blood — two men down — a club flying about — bang— whose down now? Who swung that slung shot? I see you, Bill Peterson. Bang again — crash — four men carried off badly wounded. And the two machines separate and sullenly make their way home. This is considered by many persons a neces- sary variety in the course of a Fireman's life; a fight at least every three months. The machine represents the head of the clan, and the bitterness is often as desperate between 22 and 45, as the feuds between the old Scotch clans, or the fiercest Indian tribes on our bor- ders. They are handed down from one gen- eration of firemen to another; if the machines can't head each other in getting to a fire, or " overflow" them there in a fair contest, they must have a fight on their way back. THE NEW YORK FIREMAN. 99 The Firemen — the genuine Firemen — we believe, generally belong to the two sides of the city, rarely to the centre ; if anything the East side has the decided preponderance, and furnishes the richest specimens. He rarely leaves the city, and has never been seen farther out of town than Hoboken. No persuasion, no temptation could lure him out of sound of the Hall bell. When he ceases to hear that, he is a dead man. You may bury him. On Sundays he often mounts a heavy horse, (one of his boss's — the butcher,) and sets forth on the Third Avenue. Sometimes he gets possession of a gossamer sulky, and doesn't allow himself to be challenged to a trial of speed more than once without responding. He took a drink at starting from town — at the end of the race he drinks again. To acquire steadi- ness in aiming the pipe at fires, the Firemen often form themselves into target companies, and parading the streets in a half-uniform, with a target borne aloft by a small black boy, they 100 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. seek some suburb where they practice at the mark, and returning, display the target (the negro boy rolling his eyes with awful rapi- dity, as if he had fired all the shots,) pierced to the very centre with holes. There are those who have no faith in these apparent perforations — who regard them as having been made strictly in accordance with the laws of mechanics — and not of projectiles — by the augur, not by the ball. There is a class of people who consider these Firemen's target- parades, as an assumption, a make-believe altogether, an artful concession to the military spirit of the times. Some say they are not real Firemen who partake of them, but pre- tenders : that no real Fireman would so far degrade himself as to wear the livery of a mere soldier, &c, &c. We believe Firemen have fired at the target and hit it. Others are wel- come to their own opinion. As it is the glory of the hero to die on the open field of battle, it is the ambition of a Fireman to fall at a fire. THE NEW YORK FIREMAN. 101 It is then only that he dies truly and in char- acter. Then the fire-bells are muffled and rung dolefully, the machines put on crape, the companies are marshalled in solemn array to the funeral, the engineers with their trumpets, the City Aldermen in attendance with their staves of office, enwreathed in black. It is only in such a death that the community is once in a while, taught to feel that in every Fire- man it has a hero, who is ready at all times to yield his life for the safety of the orphan and the widow — who is willing to perish that society may sleep in peace. May his leather cap be immortal, may its bright gloss never be dimmed, and may his patent-leather belt be still resplendent as Orion, with al^the virtues ! Cross the city due East : in that direction lies a mighty region, through which our pan- oramic painting should roll like the Mississippi, but it is checked in its flow by 102 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. A GRAND PAGEANT. - Every now and then — at least as often as twice in the year — there comes a sunshiny day upon this great city, when one, wandering into the remote settlements of the town, will observe, from an early hour in the morning, a peculiar and mysterious quiet brooding over the streets. He will feel that this is, in some way, but he cannot tell exactly how, connected with a bay nag with a demi-pique saddle, and holsters and shiny housings, standing by the walk in a by-street, held in the bridle by a vagabond black boy, with other boys of the two orders lingering about. "Wherever the philosophic observer goes, he finds similar horses, trappings, holders, and groups, which seem to belong to the day, and to be spon- taneous, like so many mush-rooms of the early spring. The crop multiplies with the clock, and gets presently to be pretty thick in all the by-ways of the town ; and begins to take a A GRAND PAGEANT. 103 bristling form in lines of troops ranged against house walls and along curb stones. And now, following these, w T hich are the faint streaks in the East preceding the broad glory of the day — there is an obvious set of the tide of the city towards a central line. The occasion is clearly a pageant ; from a crapy feeling in the air it must be a funeral pageant. The main line of the procession is Broadway ; and, like a great magnet, as it lies along the city, it draws the population from remote streets, first one by one, scattering along; then the drums begin to beat at the quarters — troops hurrying to- wards the Park — on foot — horseback — and in omnibuses, with their bayonets thrust into the air out of the windows and back-door. More people making for Broadway ; enterprizing boys climbing the trees in the Park ; the great platform filling ; red, blue, and gray companies of citizen soldiery rapidly assembling — General Sanford on horseback, calm and decidedly ele- giac of feature — Mr. Mace's show-hearses, with 104 THE FEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. six horses apiece, and some eighteen or twenty black and white plumes, have entered the great gates — with a sensation in the crowd — various gentlemen in citizen's dress, with long sticks in their hands, are seen emerging from the Hall and ranging themselves on the upper plat- form. The coffin with the heroic remains of the patriot- warrior are brought down the steps from the Governor's Room — where the brave General, alive in an admirable portrait by Kel- logg, is looking upon himself dead and changed in the coffin which is directly under his eye — the vast crowd receive them in silence. With wailing trumpets on the move into Broadway, and now look — look with all the eyes you have t Saw you ever such streams of people — such flocks — lanes — crowds — groups. On foot, in trees, on stoops, in areas, the windows, balcon- ies, house-tops, alive with faces, and smiling or looking forth tenderly from the crapen ban- ners and hangings with which the houses and hotel-fronts are darkened — so many lovely A GRAND PAGEANT. 105 faces, that you wonder from what populous and hidden paradises they have stolen upon the light of common day in Broadway. You know that they are in some way related to the habitual dwellers in these houses — that they are either townspeople or acquaintances who have made an interest in time for a look-out on the Pageant. On it moves — the mournful music keeping before — and telling a mile away that it is coming. Of all sad things in the whole solemnity, the saddest being the horse of the deceased hero, walking slowly along in the line with all his mountings, but riderless. We cannot fail to observe as it passes on, some shows and exhibitions — here, as in other places ■ — of the fantasies of sympathy and grief: Among them we have a small liberty pole dis- played from one window wound in crape : in another a bust — supposed to be the late Gen- eral — with a wreath of flowers and a black band or ribbon about the neck. With an im- mensity of people not to be counted — all civil, 106 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. temperate, and decorous, the well-behaved Pageant flows on, till it reaches one of the customary turnings of the current and passes into the Bowery — where we find another whole city of people, in windows, on walks, stoops, posts, house-tops, more curious than the others — and sharing more (we believe, in their simple souls, in the feeling proper to the occasion. — with more grief for the dead, and more wonderment for the living Captains and Colonels in their cocked hats on horseback. By the time the ceremony has returned to the Park, the heart of the people has calmed, and they quietly ebb back to their own homes. They have had their holiday, and holiday they will and must have, under some pretext or another. The appointed orator recites before a great multitude the Funeral Eulogy — the lights come slowly out upon the darkness, and all again is peace — the peace of Liberty to the living — the peace of blest Immortality, let us hope, to the dead I A DIRECTOR OF PAGEANTS. 107 For the further ordering of these popular displays, does a new officer, not in our present catalogue of city magnates, seem needed ? A DIRECTOR OF PAGEANTS. Of late years, the passion for holidays and holiday shows has started into a vigorous growth, which must be approved of as a re- lief to the monotonous business-habits of the community. With the impulsiveness which urges them in everything they engage in, our people now rush as eagerly into sight-seeing as a few years ago they hurried the other way. There is, however, unhappily, a want of tern perance and discretion in the employment of this newly-awakened energy, which robs even enjoyment of half its beauty and enjoyability. Without considering the when, the how, the where, our citizens at one time celebrate the Fourth of July, for example, by cramming themselves in churches to hear anniversary orations, then by cramming themselves into 108 THE PEN-AND-INK- PANORAMA. booths to eat roast pig and imbibe lemonade ; at another time it's all steamboat and railroad car, and nobody left in town to admire the mili- tary. So with regard to public pageants. There appears to be no method nor order in these enthusiasms. The displays are generally mere swarms or medleys of people. There is neither beginning nor end to the procession. Odd Fellows, soldiers, Common Council men, sailors, students, firemen, societies of mechanics, societies Hibernian and Italian, consuls, bishops, all hurried one after the other in confused suc- cession with an extraordinary interspersion of all sorts of flags, banners, poles, tressels, badges, pyramidical symbols, and crapes of every length, quality, and character. Instead of being harmonized into a complete whole, every thing and every body seems to be left free to consult his own taste or no taste ; and the re- sult is, that the pageants of the city, which might have proved a soothing and agreeable spectacle, send home the thousands who stand THE SEMPSTRESS. 109 for three hours in the pelting sun watching its progress, weary and dissatisfied. As pageants of this kind have become one of the customs of the country, we think no better provision could be made for their successful execution, than the appointment of some man of taste to their Directorship. A reasonable salary al- lowed to such an office would be money well spent. Let us leave pageants and spectacles. "Who is this little, brisk, tidy, pretty-faced figure that glances across our path, before we plunge into the great stream of the Bowery ? THE SEMPSTRESS. Is it a sin to be young? to have good teeth ? a graceful carriage ? intelligence, and ease, if not absolute elegance of expression ? In a word, to have all lady-like qualities of youth, 110 THE PEN- AND INK PANORAMA. beauty, and person, (except a hundred dollar Cashmere, and a rich husband's bank account to draw upon at pleasure) ? Of how many per- sons describable like this, does our Christian reader suppose the question is discussed in this Free Land, in this Eepublican City, every morning, whether she shall take her meals with the family or after them ? "We cannot tell him the hundreds — they may even count them by thousands. And in how many is the question decided against the young, fair, and accom- plished beneficiary ? Three out of every four, we will venture on our lives. It is this for a woman to get a living by honest handiwork in America, and it is this to be called a Semp- stress ! Now we would like, without invidious hostilities between rich and poor, to ascertain where, how, and how efficiently the line is drawn by which the laborer is separated from her mistress. Which shall beget a larger soul — to be born the pale daughter of a nabob, talked non- THE SEMPSTRESS. Ill sense to by hireling nurses from infancy, con- ducted straight from the parlor to the fashion- able boarding-school, (stopping to see or know nothing of humanity or nature by the way,) there shut up with a hundred or more of like- faced, pale creatures, to hear the twangling of a piano for an hour, the parroting of French adverbs for another, the pirouetting of a pair of thin French legs for another ; to go from this at eighteen to talk to coxcombs and drink light wines at parties till midnight or two next morning — or, being the child of a dusky, strong- working mechanic, talked with as a thing of sense, by a mother who must use her wits to bring the day about; to be pitched in, head foremost, (not to speak profanely,) at a Public School, among several hundred bust- ling girls, to make her way as best she can, in her native force of character; to be put to work, and to count how much it comes to pei day and per week, at sixteen years, when she (fuits school ; to buy books for her own read- 112 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. ing ; to live on all her holidays in the open air, in a pic-nic on Long Island, or an excursion down the Bay, or a singing anniversary of one of the churches, of which she is a director. Which of these is most likely to be a woman ? to have a heart and soul ? an intelligent judg ment ? an observant eye ? We know very well how the fashionable young lady, coming of age, disposes of herself. She marries a broken-down foreign Count, and in about ten years' bitter experience has " all the nonsense taken out of her;" or, if she escapes that, lives an inanity, and begets inanities to the end of time. Let us look a little more closely into the career of our Sempstress. The Sempstress generally lives in some two- story wooden tenement in East Bowery, (that is, the region lying on the eastern side of that great thoroughfare,) with her mother, aunt, grandmother, or sometimes with a fellow Semp- stress. She has a room, often a few flowers in pots at the window, a colored print of " Paul THE SEMPSTRESS. 113 and Virginia" in a frame against the wall, and perhaps a bird — the bird rarely, for there may be no one to look after him during the day, while she is absent at work. She subscribes to one of the Magazines with fashion-plates, and often invades the small hours after her return from her task, hanging in breathless suspense over the romantic adventures of Sir Philip de Grey ; or weeping, as if she would break her heart, over the loves and crosses of a certain "William Hamilton, an excellent youth, and Clara Howard, a young lady of peerless beauty. We state, with some reluctance, that our noble-minded Sempstress has a rather un- due admiration of the roan palfrey which figures freely in the novels of Mr. James. On Sundays, endowed in her best hat and gown, our young lady makes her way for the nearest Methodist church — of which, nine times out of ten, she is a member — and there her voice is heard in praise and thanksgiving among all ; for she is not a little proud of her 114 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. voice, and she is not ashamed, like the tine lady, to be heard singing aloud in the presence of her Maker. She puts silver in the plate oftener than Dives. But what is the course of her daily, work-a- day life ? In the morning she rises betimes. If she works for the down-town shops, she pre- pares breakfast and dispatches it promptly. It may be a couple of eggs, a piece of fish, and a cup of coffee; but we'll engage, at all hazards, there's a pickle somewhere on the table. She then takes from the great heap on the chair and disposes over her left arm, a sufficient pile of pea-coats, or cheap waistcoats, or summer pants, or whatever the goods just then in re- quest, to break the back of a small mule. With these she makes for the Bowery, ponder- ing as she goes with all the power of thought, a most important question. Whether, firstly, she can afford a sixpence in an omnibus ride on the present job ? Secondly, whether she shall take the ride down or up ? for remember THE SEMPSTRESS. 115 she is to come back freighted with an equal weight of luggage from the shop. The omni- bus is coming — she gives it a glance — spies John Harrison, the young printer, going down to work — and that settles the point. If she carries down no work, made at home, she may, being a cap-maker, or something of the sort, be seen with nothing but a small parcel, (a slice of bread and meat,) and returning there is a presumption that some friendly John Harrison or other, will providentially appear at a corner where she must pass, and accompany her home. If she is a house-seamstress, she takes it a little more leisurely, and encumbers herself no far- ther than with a pair of scissors and a thimble. Her arrival is generally the cue for a good deal of whispered conversation through the house. " How late Miss Smith comes to work ?." " Half the day is gone already !" " We shall make a precious time with the dress at this rate — it will never be ready !" It being taken for granted, invariably, that the sempstress 116 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. is an enormous swindler, and that her showing herself at that hour is a deliberate fraud. The day's work over, she begins to make a motion for departure, by gathering up the odds and ends, sticking the needles in the cushion, sheathing her scissors, &c, at which the mis- tress alw T ays expresses vast wonder and aston- ishment. « Why, Miss Smith, it isn't anything like dark yet ; you can work a good bit yet — at least half an hour." " It's seven o'clock, by my watch /" We suppose no such wonder — no such un- believing horror was ever before expressed on human countenance as showed itself the first time a Sempstress in this city (it is something like eight years ago,) announced this sentiment and confirmed it by the exhibition of a real little, bona fide gold watch. The appeal w T as acknowledged by all the upper classes, the very first circles of society, to be the most sub- lime display of plebeian effrontery on record. THE SEMPSTRESS. 117 The Sempstresses, however, " still keep it up," — as many of them, at least, as can afford watches. About the time her bonnet is adjusted, there is as fair a presumption as there was of the appearance of John Harrison in the other case, that some smart young cousin, a student- at-law, clerk, or something of that sort, may be at the door — and, if there's moonlight, so much the better. In either case, there being no re- gular champion at hand, it may happen that one of those lively young gentlemen, (an " over- powerer," as he calls himself at the Restau- rants,) with a short cane at his teeth, volun- teers his services, and is saluted at once with a blow in the face, perhaps, or, this is much more artful, is allowed to dance attendance till they come abreast of some good strong shop- lights and a great throng of people, when she announces, in a bold clear voice, " You had better go home, you insolent puppy, and mind your own business." 118 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. It does sometimes happen, though this is very rarely the case, that some worthy young gentleman of an honest disposition is taken with her beauty, and accosting her with the distance and reserve which softens the impro- priety of a street introduction, an acquaintance ensues; and we have known happy matches grow out of these chance-encounters. We can- not regard them as strictly cannonical; although if angels will come in this guise, may we not give them welcome ? Encompassed with all this armor of proof, we can imagine another catastrophe. Let us consider for a moment the other side of the picture. Suppose on some dreary, weary night, the down-town worker for the shops, is making her way home on foot, (without even the small sixpence for the omnibus,) trade not having prospered with her, or her little week's earn- ings not forthcoming ; in faded frock, with bonnet three fashions old, and altogether, an THE SEMPSTRESS. 119 object of pity to look on. She hears a voice trilling, cheerily, and casting her eye up, espies a " young lady" at the height of fashion (a lit- tle beyond it,) in her dress, jewels on her hand, a chain about her neck, the gaze of all the people as she makes her way along. What wonder if for a moment the poor plodding sempstress falters in her course : if now and then one drops over into the abyss. Her native love of virtue was strong, it was enforced by good example and proper habits — but when the pressure of necessity passes a certain limit, there are some in all societies who will yield. Let us not, therefore, judge harshly of our fel- low-creatures. It is often the chance turning of a street corner which determines a career of virtue or vice. We are better in garb than our neighbors, but He who searches beneath all disguises, will discern, under the plain attire of the poor girl, who plods her weary way along the city street at night fall, a spirit, noble, just, honorable, and struggling gallantly against manifold enemies and temptations. 120 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. As we are engaged in sight-seeing, which is regarded by certain very shrewd and long- headed persons, as a sheer waste of time, you must allow me to stop the panorama a moment to say a word or two on ABSURD CALCULATIONS. Every now and then — and at pretty regular intervals — we come in the newspapers, upon an elaborate table, making known to us the immense sum we might realize by foregoing cigars and tobacco, or mint juleps, or theatres, or something else in the small expenditure line. In other words, we are told if we should lay by sixpence a day, and put it out at inter- est for forty years, we might come into posses- sion, at the time we were about sixty or seventy years old, of some twenty or thirty thousand dollars. This is certainly a very agreeable prospect for enterprizing young men — but it has one or two little drawbacks worth noticing. In the first place, the little problem we refer ABSURD CALCULATIONS. 12 1 to, requires for a successful solution, that the sixpence aforesaid should be invested at com- pound interest. Now, we are not acquainted with any bank, broker, or other corporation, or gentlemen in the money business, who have made arrangements to take sums of that amount on deposit. If we could find a stock jobber of an extraordinary imagination — a little hard up for a drink — we might perhaps persuade him to accept a loan of that amount on deposit, but how it is to be effected in the ordinary course of dealing we are not sufficiently fami liar with the market to see just at the present time. In the second place the tables in ques- tion (so accurately prepared) go upon the in- genious supposition that man is especially con- structed for a six-penny saving machine, and that the gratification of his natural functions is a foolish and idle perversion of the original design. To save sixpence a day it is taken for granted is the sole end and purpose of his being. If he had been formed of wood, cast iron, or 122 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. sheet tin, like a child's money-box, this would be an exceedingly plausible theory — but as he happens to have a heart, a pulse, a tongue, and two or three other lively appliances, he is very apt to forget the necessity of laying by sixpence a day, and clapping an extinguisher on all his faculties and enjoyments, while the investment is accumulating at compound interest, in some imaginary and impossible bank. Were we disposed to deal further with our profound and far-seeing table-makers, we should humbly suggest that some men would like to have a little return for their economy some time this side of seventy, when we would sup- pose, according to the Psalmist's computation, that most promissory personal notes drawn upon this world, are very likely to run out. To have twenty thousand dollars just when you don't want it is neither mercantile nor reli- gious, nor even plain common sense; it is good husbandry neither for the present nor the next world. Thrift is very well in its way ; with. ABSURD CALCULATIONS. 123 out economy of some kind or other, no man can make sure of a day's peace or happiness ; but vague and impracticable propositions for saving, like these oft repeated calculations of the newspapers, are likely to bring discredit on everything in the name of economy. By pre- senting impossible and unbusiness-like state- ments, they discourage the young from the very idea of prudence, and drive them abroad into a still freer indulgence in the very ex- penses they are meant to warn them from. Figures (as a great philosopher once said) do sometimes make awful blunders. And now that we are assured we are losing no money by it, let us go on with the show. After a pretty long journey through many scenes and sights, ladies and gentlemen, we have reached 124 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. THE BOWERY. When Captain John Smith sailed up James's Eiver in the early day of Virginia, while it was a new country, his heart leaped within him at the sight of the rich bottom-lands, the huge green trees, the clear, deep waters ; but what touched him most was the vast abundance and variety of game flying about. The writer, the sketcher of men and things, when he enters the mouth of the great Bowery, at Chatham- Square, is similarly affected. He is at the entrance of the greatest street on the Continent, the most characteristic, the most American, the most peculiar: with all sorts of game, plenty of high grass, so to speak, deep water, and heavy timber before him. He cannot turn his pen in any direction, without bringing down some rare beast or strange wild fowl. At the first step he has the Mastodon, (the largest of known creatures,) exhibited in a transparency by Dr. Beach, with music in the balcony ex- THE BOWERY. 125 tensively patronized and highly approved of by crowded audiences along the sidewalk. Seeing how the Hat stores swarm already, one would think these Boweryites were a many-headed race — something like the Anthropophagi, with a difference — and wore three hats (as certain gentlemen ride three horses,) apiece. Immor- tal Charlotte Temple, and that profligate Bri- tish officer — this little yellow house under the tree at the corner was the scene of all that ! And now we have the North American Hotel, with the ragged wooden boy a-top, (a full length of the founder as he appeared in his early for- tunes,) and in its doorways, clustering like bees in midsummer, the circus-riders, in highly colored cravats, who perform at night over the way; and standing about the neighboring tavern-steps, an infinite variety of young men, all well-dressed, with coats of a particular cut, shiny hair, and a peculiar glazed look about the eye. What is the business or calling of these young men ? No mortal man has been 126 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. able to discover! They are not connected with the Bowery Theatre next door, nor the Amphitheatre over the way even ; nor with the taverns at their back. And yet they are al- ways standing along these stoops day after day, night after night, the supply never gives out — steady, constant as the sun and stars, they come out upon the face of daylight and darkness. We begin now to appreciate how miscella- neous a world the Bowery is, for at every step We have taken, a new business, a new kind of shop and traffic has disclosed itself: saddleries, stove-shops, poulterer's stands, stage offices, clothiers, grocers, druggists, jewelers, candy and peanut stands, four-cent boards, &c. We have counted no less than two hundred and forty distinct trades carried on in the line of the Bowery. What is not to be had and seen there, can be found nowhere. As a general, an almost universal rule, business in the Bow. ery is done on a small scale, with more of an eye to comfort than splendor. There are no THE BOWERY. 127 great plate-glass windows, no gorgeous jewel- er's shops, no overpowering furniture establish- ments. The only attempts at magnificence — and these do not partake of the brilliant — are in sundry clothing emporiums, stacked high to the very ceiling, and hung thick along the shop fronts with great Bowery overcoats, blazing waistcoats, and everlasting pants — all con- structed as for a race of big-limbed, and broad- chested giants. Among all the numberless stores and ware-rooms of that street, we can- not remember a single undertaker's shop or coffin -warehouse in its whole length. Life is too cheerful and full-flushed in that street to al- low of such an impertinence. It inclines, on the contrary, to excess of enjoyment and animal indulgences, and keeps itself in high tone with perpetual raw oysters and stiff smashes. We state from actual count, that there are no less than twenty-seven oyster-houses and fifty-two taverns in the Bowery — enough to keep the street at fever-heat through the whole twenty- 128 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. four hours. By a wise provision of nature, there is no end to the sights to be seen in this Bowery thoroughfare ; it is a perpetual kale- idoscope : from morning till night something rare and strange constantly starting up. It is to the study of what passes in the street that the Boweryites are mainly indebted for what they get of education. They trouble them- selves very little with gilt-edged annuals, Greek Dictionaries, or McCulloch on Commerce. They take things in the lump ; a pound of sugar costs at wholesale six cents, Mr. Bow- ery retails it at eight, and makes a couple of cents profit. That he understands. A man presents himself with a broken nose, low fore- head, and a sinister cast in his eye ; Mrs. Bow- ery knows him to be a villain, (although she has never made the acquaintance of Iago,) and keeps her grown-up daughters out of the way accordingly. In their personal deportment, the Bowery people are perfectly independent — every man for himself. You needn't trouble THE BOWERY. 129 yourself to put a coat on when you go into that street, if it is not agreeable ; no one will cut you for that breach of etiquette. They are as near to a primitive state, as people in a great city can be, preserving their original traits pretty much as they came from the hand of Nature. In their unsophisticated curiosity about sights, for example, the last monkey that comes into the street excites as vivid attention as the first. Monkeys are monkeys in the Bow- ery, and have a respect and consideration be- stowed on them there, far beyond any other part of the city, some of the remoter regions of the extreme Eastern side alone excepted. Some have expressed a belief that the people of that whole section of the city lying east of Broadway are composed of different material from the settlers about Fifth Avenue and Union Square ; that they are an essentially distinct and inferior race. This is the doctrine I believe, taught in many of the fashionable academies, in the best dancing-schools, and in 130 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. both our Collegiate Institutions. One unmis- takeable evidence that they are a somewhat degraded caste is, that they pay their debts much more regularly than the high-toned people of the Western quarter. We do not know whether this distinction, in regard to the two sides of the town, is laid down in the new geographies or marked in the city maps ; but we are confident that there are thousands in the western part of the city (grown-up men and women,) who couldn't find their way to the Bowery without a guide. Is Human Life, take it altogether, happiest in Broadway or the Bowery ? on the Aristo- cratic or Democratic side of New York ? In the one it's short-cake — substantial, but per- haps a little lumpish ; in the other, fancy tea- cake, with all sorts of caraway-seed and dainty frost-work — with an inclination, perhaps, to engender flatulency. The one looks after the useful — the other the ornamental. The one is especially careful to fill his belly — the other to THE BOWERY. 131 illuminate his back. Light goods, of more show than substance, are for Broadway wear — heavy, with a strong tendency to coarseness for the Bowery. The one thinks more of the homely virtues — the other of the elegant ac- complishments. And yet we would not take it upon our consciences to affirm that the road to Heaven lies straighter through the Bowery than Broadway — that the workman's tin-kettle is a better provision for the journey than the filagree reticule of the lady of fashion. While in Broadway, (to rest a moment there,) the apparel is notable for its rieatness and careful arrangement, the people of the Bowery have, all of them, an appearance as if they had got up of a sudden and dressed in a hurry — -with the exception, now and then, of a notability who is known as a Bowery dandy. The style of this gentleman's costume is startling and ex- traordinary. Blazing colors — -stark-sl tring blue for coat, brick red for waistcoat, bre >ehes with a portentous green stripe, hat brushed 132 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. up to the highest gloss, shiny as a new kettle — he rolls down the Bowery a perfect Meteor, before whose slightest scintillation a Broadway exquisite would dwindle to undistinguishable nothingness. The Broadway dandy dresses snug and small, reducing his person by stays and pulleys, close-fitting coats, pants, vests, and gloves. The Bowery dandy would im- press you with an idea of largeness, strength ; he swells his chest, makes broad the brim of his hat, the skirts of his coat — cuts close his hair, which conveys a notion of vigor — and as for gloves, his muscular, broad, brown hand speaks for itself — he has never been known to wear them. You see no children in Broadway — the little, tricked out things in fringed panta lettes, fantoccin coats, and South American castors, are scarcely to be reckoned children : in the Bowery they swarm and multiply — the real bare-legged bread and butter-eaters ; they pour down from up above, flood in from the side streets — seem to spring, mushroom fashion, THE BOWERY. 133 out of the very ground. On the occasion of a public procession or entree, there is no end to them ; for, in this street, processions have a heartier acknowledgment and reception— here, as in ancient Rome, on the transit of a great man, (they don't always insist on the first order of greatness either,) the democracy mount the awning-posts, windows, roofs— yea, to the very chimney-tops with their children in their arms, Does not the Bowery, you ask, grow torpid ;md lethargic under so great a burden of sight- seeing as you describe ? Indifferent — -so that, at last, it is difficult, if not impossible to move or startle it, by any exhibition, however pro- digious ? We confess there is something in this. But if we w r ere asked what we had known to affect it most strongly — what had wrought it in its whole length to the highest pitch of attention and wonder ? We should unhesitatingly men- tion the Mammoth Ox, Daniel Lambert, which came in from West Farms, in the year '40, we 134 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. think it was. No ! We should make an ex* ception in behalf of the Tiger, which, escaping from the old Menagerie at 94, made its appear- ance in the street one autumn morning, and went about the better part of the day, trying on hats, putting his nose in divers sugar barrels, and glaring at small fat children, in good case, in second-story windows. The business occu- pied the attention of the Bowery for better than a fortnight. The Bowery is the main thoroughfare for the country-stages, and in spite of the rise and progress of railroads, a few of the old Whips are to be found lingering around the West- chester County Hotel, early in the morning. But at this hour, the street is mainly tilled with porters making for the down-town stores, then after them clerks ; then the sempstresses and binder's girls. All its ordinary and lawful uses being disposed of, we find it quite a com- mon thing, in our opinion very reprehensible, for certain of our great nobs who have a sin- THE BOWERY. 135 cere respect for a shilling-piece, and who oc- cupy some of the best houses in Broadway and the fashionable squares, to make a convenience of the Bowery when they have a small bundle to carry home. They can fetch and carry here with impunity, at a very small risk of encountering their fashionable friends. A better class, but of the same kidney — men of a benevolent turn, but not indifferent to appearances, transport pine-apples and other little nick-nacks to their families in this manner, by hand, through the Bowery. We should not be surprised if the residenters one day rose against this abuse of their street. Another practice, allowable perhaps to the infirmity of human nature ; down-town men, whose residences lie in the West, in Waverly- Place and thereabouts, on the laying over of their first note at the bank, as a common thing- make their way home for that afternoon, (though altogether out of their way,) through the Bow- ery. By this means, and it is we suppose a 136 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. pardonable weakness, they avoid not the face of men, but the face of those men whose good opinion is their life-breath. In the first flush of misfortune they dare not encounter them. In truth the Bowery is very much haunted by broken merchants, men in bad hats, gentlemen under indictment at the Sessions ; the smaller class of reporters and scribblers sometimes take their " drinks" in the Bowery. If bad luck, in any shape is on you, you may walk the Bowery with safety ; nobody will pry into your troubles, or think any the less of you for a coat out at elbows. If you're just out of prison they'll forgive you. In a word, it's the only noble-spirited and Christian street in New York! And who is this that swaggers into the pic- ture with a cock of the hat and an independent roll of the shoulders ? This, ladies and gentle THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN. 137 men, is a very worthy native of this region, and, therefore, I propose to make known to you something of the habits of THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN. The uproarious young gentleman generally enters a room with a " Ha ! ha ! my lads — how are ye I" shakes hands boisterously all round, and manages to introduce something into each one of his salutations that shall, at least, re- motely, justify a roaring burst of laughter. If a new book is lying on your table, or a present from a friend in China, he clutches it up with tremendous eagerness and enthusiasm, and ex- claims, " Hallo ! what have you got here !" The uproarious young gentleman is good-look- ing, with fat, burly countenance, and a pair of commanding whiskers. He is sometimes a stout clerk in a jobbing-house, oftener a junior partner in a wholesale grocery, and still more frequently a respectable young butcher with big arms and broad shoulders, in a blue coat, 138 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA with a silk hat with a crape wound about its base, and who is known familiarly as a " Bow- ery Boy !" Uproarious young gentlemen are not, how- ever, confined to these three interesting classes of society, but are found sprinkled in every company, less rarely, it is true, as you ascend the scale. To be overtaken in the street by an uproarious young gentleman cannot be con- sidered the most delightful event in one's life ■ he invariably slaps you on the back, at the same time bawling in your ear, " Ah ! my hearty, which way ?" in such a manner, as if you are a non resident or standing bail for an indicted gentleman who has fled the county, to bring your heart into your mouth. The number of shoulders the uproarious young gentleman has dislocated in the most public manner, cannot be counted, and it would seem that he should be followed as regularly by a surgeon with his box of instruments and a roll of bandages, as if he were a shark or a chain-shot. The chief THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN. 139 possession of this lusty young gentleman is a pair of brass hinged lungs, which are never out of repair, and which he keeps in fine order by constant exercise at public places, by cry- ing " Hey I Hey ! M in a sharp, fife-like key at political meetings, to set the cheerers on ; by joining a boat-club and practising horrid boat- songs on the bay, in express violation of the law against " disturbing the quiet of our waters ;'.' and more particularly by going home late at night, and bursting out directly under the windows of peaceful citizens, in a voice which shoots sheer perpendicular up the side of the house some sixty feet, like a fizzing sig- nal rocket. The uproarious young gentleman is conspic- uous at fires, and may be seen dashing about in a box coat, with a red worsted comforter about his neck, shouting, " Play this way — more hose — and two or three boys !" By these means he keeps himself in a very pleasurable state of excitement, and impresses the looker- 140 THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN, on with the idea that he is an amazingly pub- lic spirited individual and active young man. If he be at a party among " pleasant sort o' people that use ingrain carpets, and don't mind a little fun !" and a break-down jig is sugges- ted to wind up the evening with, the discreet housewife slips into the basement immediately under the parlor where the uproarious young gentleman is going through his paces, and clears the glasses and light crockery from the table to prevent breakage, if the uproarious young gentleman should think proper, in the progress of his jig, to work his way through the upper floor ! This uproarious young gentleman appears to have but one grand object in life — and that is to make as much noise and pother as he con- veniently can. In furtherance of this laudable design, he pulls your door-bell as if he were tugging at the great Tom of Moscow; his knock is thunder itself ; and his cheers at the theatre and bravos at the opera, a series of ex- THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN. 141 plosions which break from him as if, like voices from tombs and caverns of the earth, they would rend his body to obtain an utterance. In ice-cream saloons he thumps the floor of the box as if a convention of auctioneers were there assembled practising their hammers pre- paratory to an exposure of nothing less than the entire planetary system to public sale, and at the hotel table, he lifts his voice in his re- peated calls to the waiter, as if he thought that useful white or colored gentleman, had planted himself on the extreme point of Cape Magellan or Cape Horn, as far out of hearing as possi- ble. There is, be it known, another species of the genus uproarious young gentleman, which may be styled the zoological young gen- tleman, and whose uproar consists mainly of admirable offhand imitations of various mem- bers of the animal creation, for whom the said gentleman entertains the warmest sympathy and most profound admiration. For instance : when a party is breaking up, and the young 142 THE PEN-AND-TNX PANORAMA. ladies are on the stairs with their hoods and shawls on, descending into the hall, the zoolog- ical young gentleman who is in their very midst, suddenly, and to the great trepidation of the fair creatures by whom he is surrounded, breaks into a compound noise, part screech, part hoot, in imitation of his friend the owl — that wonderful bird having just such a round bush head, and just such a pair of round star- ing eyes as this uproarious young gentleman himself. Shortly after, when they are standing on the door-steps, bidding their hostess good night, the zoological gentleman flutters his arms rapidly against his sides, and utters a clear, vocal cock-a-doodle-doo, in token of his having engaged to wait upon the pretty young lady in blue eyes and white satin, in the very teeth of a desperate young man in black whis- kers and six dollar beaver hat. The zoological young gentleman also gives you the lion with a sore throat ; a quail in a rye stubble ; and, tc amuse a select company collected at Mrs. THE UPROARIOUS YOUNG GENTLEMAN. 143 Twirk's, a market sloop with its live stock en- tire, pigs, poultry, boatswain, milch-cow and captain. This species of the uproarious young gentleman, natural historians observe is be- coming more scarce every year. Tight neck- stocks and a rigid system of police, are un- favorable to the development of his peculiar kind of talent I Our boisterous gentleman is suddenly extin- guished by a cloud. Ah, Trade! Trade ! my friends, what a hold it has upon this great com- mercial emporium ? What are these lying in this shop-window, like so many cards for a benefit-night at the Bowery Theatre, with a placard announcing "TICKETS FOR GREENWOOD." If the faces of the present generation of men bear any impress of their acts, they should to a superior being or a mortal observer not 141 THE FEN-AND-INK PANORAMA, faring in their spirit, look terrible and hid- eous. Calmly separating ourselves from the general movement of the times in certain directions — it seems to us as if the ancient faith, reverence, devotion, and all conscious- ness of the sanctity of life had utterly died out: that all modern civilization lay loosely upon the surface : that our earthly pilgrimage is in truth as in metaphor, a mere day's jour- ney, a hurried scamper, from the cradle to the grave ; and that all were pressing to crowd the vehicle of swiftest conveyance. How can we doubt that it is so regarded when we find in shop-windows on the common highway of our city — displayed and advertised (as if they w r ere the mere tokens of an ordinary excur- sion) — passes to a burial-place — " Tickets for Greenwood." There was a time, and not very far distant, when silence was the usher to that last sacred abode; when from the shade] house the grievous pageant wound sadly for- ward to the church aisle and the lonely vault; (< TICKETS FOR GREENWOOD." 145 to the old country homestead ; to the retired family burial-place under the green tree; and in consecrated earth the beloved remains were laid away, for ever sequestered in their resting- place as in the affections ; memorable to grief and kinship — in all the agitations and chances of the after-hours. But now — alas ! alas ! the change — hostile systems contend for our living bodies, and we are buried by corporations. We live in mobs, and mob-like we throng to the cemetery : as if we feared to be alone. In daily proclamations : in circulars, and experi- mental trips, we are invited to the newly- opened grounds, as to a ball or other festive entertainment. We take stock in graveyards as we do in banks and railway schemes. Graves are bought by the lot at a discount : so much off, if several are taken at a time. We are stimulated to secure the best places, the choice spots, as if they were premium benches at a concert, or private boxes at the opera. Oh, that we have come to live in such an age ! No 146 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. wonder — no wonder — the poets are dead ! That men believe they know not what; that they doubt everything ; and that they would regulate this great world, with its mountains and waters, as with a screw and lever. It is in Mr. Berryman that our tragi-comic era finds its most perfect representative and development : Mr. Berryman, who, in his one person, exercises the double function of Sexton of the Fashionable Church and Manager of Fashionable Parties : Berryman who wields in one hand a silver ladle to serve oysters, in the other a shovel to dig a pit for the shells : Ber- ryman who dismisses, with Napoleonic rapid- ity, the coaches of a grand re-union in Fifth Avenue on a Saturday evening, that he may rally, in a few hours of interval, at the opening of the rectorate on Sunday morning : Berry- man who, like the late Charles Mathews, groans on one side of his face and grins on the other : who makes a mock of life and death ; and conjuror-like, keeps the two balls in motion " TICKETS FOR GREENWOOD." 147 in the air, heeding little — like the times he re- presents — which of the two comes down first; and dodging with marvellous dexterity to save bis head damage from either : in the great game he is playing (we speak it in no disrespect,) it seems to be a matter of indifference to this ready double-dealer, whether he serves to his customers diamonds or spades : whether his white waistcoat of rejoicing or his black gloves of woe are called for. In the familiar dialect of the west, he is thar' ! We are inclined to believe that in the secret recesses of the soul of Berryman, (as in the consideration of the era, whose truest type he is,) the whole affair on both sides is regarded as a huge jest : a mere farce, rather broadly played, but of short dura- tion : and that lying in one of these finical cof- fins, or sitting at ease on one of the parlor otto- mans, is only a part of the pre-arranged per- formance : something done, as in the course of the play, merely to help the piece along : and that he looks upon these new-fangled 148 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. cemeteries as no more than stage gardens, with a fancy fence and canvas shrubbery — a mere show and make-believe — nothing more. If we are to judge by what we see, Death — once known as the grim tyrant, the cruel enemy of our peace, the invader of households — is the Merry Andrew of the scene; the director of Public Amusements. It is he who announces with such boastful promise in the daily papers, the scheme of his entertainment : who invites the editors to the opening of his new play-ground : who rails in his ring with quaint fences: who engages a company of lively directors : who has an office in Wall- street : who publishes fresh catalogues of his attractions in colored covers : who contrives new coffins of a patent convenience, (like a Mr. Rice in the Virginia Mummy,) as a rare sport to get into : who takes shops of display in Broadway : and he it is who has entered into partnership with Mr. John Mace, in that great glass warehouse, (a rival to the structure of U TICKETS FOR GREENWOOD." 149 Industrial Exhibition of 1853, up- town, n^ar the Keservoir,) at the corner of Carmine street. Life ! my lively fellow — he seems to say — you are not to have it all your own way. You have had the good things of this world long enough! My turn now, if you please: your Mrs. Furbelow has had the turbans and feath- ers in her drawing-room long enough — all the shows and spectacles shall not belong to the Bowery Theatre ; so, my dear Mr. Mace, bring me out six iron-grey horses with sable plumes : if there are to be balls and parties for live folks — light me up, late into the evening, an undertaker's shop with transparent walls of glass, that our neighbors may see how merry we are. Let the women and children who grow melancholy with serious sports and semp- stress's work in the day time, have a roaring regale of grinning silver plates and waxen polished mahogany coffins ! Come and be buried, my merry men all ! A shiver, a cold, 150 THE PEN- AND INK PANORAMA. sl*eet, a few people standing around in black coats — open the door — and you are in — Eter- nity ! That's all ! Thanks, Mr. John Mace, for the gentle introduction. This is, a sad and damnatory truth, the spirit of the times. It is a part of our nature to cherish foolish hopes, to believe well of our kind : and in our vain fancy to contrive sanctuaries a little re- moved from the street and the market-place, to remember that while we are of the earth, earthy, good Providence has assigned to us immortal souls, whose business may be in another scene, where there is no traffic, where painted fashion enters not, and where a light from far-off stars and music from distant spheres may play about our enfranchised spirits. Shall we go to that as scholars who have learned no part of their coming lesson ; where, when we mumble over the topics of the exchange and the counting-room, our new fel- "tickets for greenwood." 151 low-citizens of the upper sphere will account us foreigners and strangers ? Oh, let us, if \v T e can, even in the hurry and bustle of this the busiest age of the world, re- serve one little domain sacred to our nobler studies. However far peaceful valleys are in- vaded with the whirl of new mechanisms, old lakes and rivers vexed, though the temples of worship themselves are overthrown in the furious speed of grasping barter, let the grave — the dear, sacred grave — where our fathers and mothers, our sisters and our brethren have gone before us, lie aloof, as of old, and possess a twilight peace of its own. The scene change sonce again to a queer little thoroughfare, and behold 152 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. MRS. ALWAYS, AND THE LITTLE SCHOOL IN THE CROOKED STREET. Memory has its holiday time, to the most of us — and let it ever cherish this benignant power ! — opening a little gallery of its own : a series of Portraits and Interiors tinted with cheerful colors, which live as fresh to-day on the canvas, as in the first hour they were put there. It calls up to most of us a picture or two, which teaches us that while we are grow- ing old — and gliding swiftly to the great ocean which opens outward on another world — com- munities and metropolises are also sailing on- wards in their larger bulk and with their wider shadow, towards the same great bourne of all things. It is within our remembrance — and we are not by any means " the oldest inhabi- tant" — it seems but yesterday — that Indians wandered among us at holiday-time, and near upon Christmas were used to make their ap- pearance in the old Square, (named after that MRS. ALWAYS. 153 noble friend of ours, Lord Chatham,) with bow and arrows, and to shoot at pennies in a cleft stick at some thirty paces — for what they could hit ; a sport patronized of youth and sometimes lingeringly watched by grown-up men, bound homewards with the Christmas turkey in hand. Has it ever occurred to you, by the way, to note the bearing of a working- man, a thrifty cartman or mechanic, as he con- voyed this pride of the season at his side. There is no countenance in the world, I take it, which so happily mingles all that we can imagine of the grand and lowly — a cross be- tween pride of purpose and consciousness of a naked bird in its plumpness dangling by the legs — as belongs to the Christmas turkey- bearer ! This, by the way, only, and in con- nection with the circumstance that a marvel- lous train of these — more than one would suppose that narrow precinct could hold — were visible on such days traversing the Square, and disappearing at that crook-necked per- 154 THE PEN-AND-INK PANOPwAMA. versity of a street just at its head. Here or there it was, in an angle not easy to be found, that Mrs. Chanty Always, the widow of an excellent Quaker dealer in paints and oil, had her seat or rather bench of authority, with the modest blazon of " Select School for Children," faintly denoted on a yellow board on the gate of entrance. The room within was a triangu- lar, with two slips against the wall, lined with children in frocks and pinafores ; we doubt whether there was an authentic coat or com- plement of breeches in the whole company. As we take pleasure, seeing the full-grown bird on the wing, in his strength and beauty spreading himself in the heavens, and circling the land in his daily flight, in going back to a recollection of the humble spotted egg in the obscure nest from which he pitched his wing : so can we help comparing what we remember of the modest beginnings of schools we knew in our youth, with the grand and comprehen- sive sweep of our present public Seminaries, MRS. ALWAYS. 155 Free Academies, and great Colleges of learn- ing? Prim, precise Mother Always, (as she was known,) sat in her rocker, her ancient sil- ver spectacles lifted from the nose, rod in hand, (for in those days the hide was by no means tenderly considered,) diligently forwarding and expediting by reasonable stages her little fleecy flock of innocents up the roads and over the rugged hills of knowledge. It was all head and hand work in those days, main per- sonal strength of teacher and learner, that achieved anything. In those days there were no picture-books, no colored primers, block- letters, toys, sliding alphabetical contrivances of encouragement ; but the twenty-six primary monsters of the language, to be met in their naked hideousness, and conquered one by one in open battle. No singing, no combination in classes, no division of labor ; it was a work of salvation, in which each little struggler was put to dig out his own deliverance : no straps nor servants to carry books, but an unmis- 156 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. takable bag, in a string about the neck, if the invoice amounted to so much — at any rate, the plain old spelling-book in its dingy-blue shingle cover, on the worst (that is to say to us now in the fancy, the best) of paper. Severity ! Have you ever looked on a gen- eral at the crisis of battle ? A Judge deliver- ing a sentence of death with the black cap on ? A tiger at feeding hour ? Mother Always, kindly-hearted woman as she was, when she came to the house to take- tea with the parents out of school-hours, could have sat for her por- trait, and given them odds in rigidity of fea- ture and unwavering resoluteness of purpose. I tremble when I meet her now — although I have practised law since, and badgered Judge and Jury in my time. She seems a reproach- ful ghost or spectre, with her pale, unmoving, quiet features, stepped out of the past, with a dreadful account to settle of forgotten alpha- bets, misreckoned sums, loiterings to schools, and truancies of absence. She, too, has never, MRS. ALWAYS. 157 changed her relations one jot, or in a single relaxed look, towards her childish scholars. Samuel D , the Congressman, is still in the first form with her ; Barney H- , although a mighty College Professor is still stumbling in words of two syllables ; E. N , though accounted one of the most correct and finished writers of the land, is still blundering in his accidence with her. No attempt at a greater familiarity of any one of all has ever, so far, succeeded with her. She still holds the rod in terror em in all her encounters. A blessing on her careful steps — wherever they tread now ! Though it is many a day since they fearfully crossed us — may she still linger long upon earth to appropriate to herself as she quietly does, all their achievings ; weaving in upon the plain ground of her Quaker cap, all the laurels, and chaplets, and glories they are earning. She it is, in her way of looking at it, that sits upon the Judge's bench, writes all those fine books, and delivers all those great 158 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. speeches in the House. " For," she reasonably asks, " what would they all have been with- out me ?" True, venerable mother ! It was you that opened the gate, and let us into those wide pastures ; you instructed our timid teeth in those first cautious nibblings, and shall we now deny the voice of the shepherdess ? The tree has grown, and has spread wide its verdurous branches; but it was you that had the acorn in your pocket, (that mysterious cavern where so much disappeared,) and if you and others of your kindred had not had the goodness to plant it, would our beloved city have been at this happy hour other than a waste howling wilderness, without college roof or academy spire, to lift its cheerful summit over our heads, and the heads of our children ? Stop a moment here, if you please, and let us have a word to say on STREET ENTERTAINMENTS. 159 SEEING THE BEAR DANCE AND OTHER STREET ENTERTAINMENTS. Time appears to have taken notice of the bitter complaint of the great comic novelist of England, that he could find no street-mice, hurdy-gurdies, or other comforts of that sort, in the highways of New- York. Mice are still scarce ; but in the interval since his lament, hand-organs have visited every thoroughfare, and there is scarcely a house iu the metropolis without its attendant grinder, as regular in his appearance as a well-paid family physician. Monkeys, too, abound ; blind harpers ; Swiss pandeans; Italian choruses; performers on the flute, and whole caravans of fantoccini. At no season of the year are these indolent men idle — they pay no heed to swallows or butter-cups, but are in a state of perpetual bloom along the side-w T alks — always in blow. We have a surprising growth of street spec- tacles in the great thoroughfares ; out-of-door 160 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. shows of a more ambitious character — small theatres and spectaculums. For instance, in a sort of rivalry with the Bowery and Chat- ham — midw 7 ay between these popular houses — what is it we have before us? A small structure on wheels, at the corner of the Square and Mott-street, with a big-lettered announce- ment, that the Bear is dancing within at two cents a sight. Payment not being required in advance, and the price, in consideration of a rival cosmorama, a yard off, having been let down to a penny, we put our head under a crimson hood, and get a capital view of a bril- liant interior — exhibiting a series of affection- ate dances of some half-a-dozen lively bears with so many lovety young ladies, underillumi- nation from the back of the box. The crowd stand off in a respectful circle awaiting our cri- tical report ; and when it is announced to be a most satisfactory and enchanting exhibition, the pennies, you see, pour in with great vio- lence, the conductor smiles, and leaving the CHATHAM- STKEET. 161 women and children about the Bear Dance, in the happy alphabet of their education, as wit- nesses of a first performance, we strike forth- with into CHATHAM-STREET We have known Chatham-street since our boyhood. It is a necessary part of the educa- tion of a New-Yorker. Not to have studied humanity in that great highway, is to have read " Othello" omitting the third act — to have eaten icecream, neglecting the last dainty dropping in the glass— to have partaken of straw-berries, leaving the largest and ripest in the dish — in fact an extremely absurd and foolish thing. To consider Chatham-street rightly, we may take it either by the handle or the bowl, for it lies like a spoon, with its bulge at the square, declining gently till it comes to an end at Tammany Hall. To begin at the small end, it must be confessed that this re- nowned thoroughfare has a rather shabby and 162 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. deserted look in that quarter, having but one side to it, and being confronted in its poverty by the stately public buildings, the City Hall, Hall of Records, &c., although it even then stickles for its rights, and puts forth its three balls under Mr. Simpson's patronage, inviting small parcels, umbrellas, family jewels, and other nick-nacks, thither in pledge! We could tell a story, just here, that would bring tears to your eyes — of a little child whose sole wish from infancy, was to see his grandfather, (poor grandfather was dead — he had been a noted beau in his time,) and who was instructed to seek him at Mr. Simpson's, whither resorting he had shown him the cane, the cocked hat, the breeches, ruffles, and other appendages of his venerable progenitor — which had been duly spouted in his life-time ; but no matter, the story's rather long, and as it has been told more than once before, you had, perhaps, better be spared. Not far from this, just past the Fork, is a spot memorable for its con- CHATHAM-STREET. 163 nection with the late Mexican war. The num- ber of times that small boy in regimentals has beaten that drum, and the number of stories that gentleman in the belt and sergeant's hat, has told to innocent-looking young men from up town, would be hard to calculate. We sup- pose there has been about as many of the one as of the other. And that they might come down to the rendezvous duly sharpened to warlike thoughts, some special providence has planted just above it a long range — the longest in the metropolis — of gunshops, their windows filled with all sorts of murderous instruments, brist- ling with dirks, rampant with cocked pistols and clamorous with great open-mouthed mus- kets. If you were asked through what street in New-York, in a given time, the greatest num- ber of dirty shirts passed, we think the chances are ten to one you would name Chatham ; and yet, strangely enough, this very street has been selected as the stronghold and entrenchment 164 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. of the linen drapers. With their great trans- parent windows, equipped with endless relays of new shirts, staring forth with fresh pearl buttons, they are a perpetual reproach to tra- vellers in that street, and seem to be saying to them constantly, " Go home, my poor fellow, and put on a clean shirt !" where perhaps there is no shirt to be had to put on. But Chatham-street rallies characteristically on the other side of the way : for it is there that Old Clo' has pitched his paradise ; it is there, that to be shorn of their buttons, to have a small rent in the back, to be out of color is no objec- tion in a coat or other garment, not the least ; but rather commends it, connecting it by secret association with the antiquity and long- descended history of their own race. You have perhaps not been a student of the Chat- ham-street Jew ? You have done yourself a great injustice. In our earliest recollections of him, he lived in patriarchal simplicity, in a small burrow at the back of his shop, from CHATHAM-STREET. 165 which he was contented to observe the world of traffic through a glazed window, running forth into the shop from time to time, as the calls of trade required him. Presently, as he grows more corrupt in the midst of an advan- cing civilization, he takes up his station in the shop. Even here he would not be at rest, but shortly seized his stool and sallied forth at the shop door and planted himself firmly on the stoop. These movements were simultaneous through the whole range, so that you, at the selfsame instant, heard the clatter of the advancing stools from every shop in the street. Now many pleasant dialogues ensued between the young gentleman of Jewry, of a right witty and trenchant character, and many friendly appeals were addressed to gentlemen from the country, in which their attention was soli- cited to a " first-rate coat," or " them pants," or " not'ing of this sort, neighbor ?" This pleasant game was, by times, carried so far that these Jewry-men did take to marching, 166 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. even like the men of G-ilgal before Jericho, up and down the walk, and seizing by violence the men from the far countries, hauled them, with force, within their fastnesses, and there impressed them, whether they would or no, in garments of the strangest make, dimensions, and fitnesses. This street, reader, was in the old times of this Island, a war-path of Man- hattan Indians to the West ; civilization hath not affected it greatly. The old red men scalped their enemies, the Chatham Go' men skin theirs. So little difference have two hun- dred years in changing the character of man- kind ! Leaving the clean linen and faded clothes shops to stare each other out of countenance as long as they choose, let us go up the street a little way. There seems to be a wonderful activity in this street, a perpetual movement of mighty streams of people, and it would be curious, if we could, to ascertain the springs, or spring which set them a-going. All through CHATHAM- STREET. 167 this thoroughfare, to whatever part we pro* ceed, we discover in great baskets, festooned on strings, piled in tin measures, and spread out on great boards, endless supplies of a little bulbus vegetable, which men, women, and boys are busy dealing out to passers by, who, par- taking thereof, go on their way rejoicing. The pea-nut is the motive power of Chatham-street, and all Chatham-street has of culture, litera- ture, the drama, springs from the pea-nut. Without the pea-nut Chanfrau had never been, the great Mose were non-existent; without the pea-nut, trade w ? ould decline, and civilization become extinct in that portion of the metropo- lis. It is the bread-plant of these east-siders, their manna in the wilderness. Watch them closely ; if any great blight has come over their spirits ; if there has not been enough fires or too little water ; if the Chatham Theatre is shut, or Mr. Chanfrau has gone to Boston, or any other circumstance has happened to affect their lightness of heart — note their con- 168 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. duct ! They will keep from the pea-nut, with a sort of holy and self-imposed abstinence for many days, and only by degrees, as matters mend with them, (a great fire is the speediest relief,) take to them again. Such is man in all ages of the world ! But listen ! We are nearing one of the Prairies, with all the bull buffaloes of the west assembled in one place, all roaring at once ! Or, is it a second Niagara burst from the earth, clamoring with the voice of fifty thousand demons ? Let us climb the hill and learn for ourselves — and now we get for the first time a view of the renowned Chatham Square, at the height of its glory, for it is auction-day, and with the red flags flying, and furniture and utensils of every name and kind strewn on every side, it has the look of a lively field of battle, where the contest is well-sustained on every hand. But even these almighty lungs at last give out; carts and barrows rush in; the square is cleared ; the sun declines, and CHATHAM. STREET. 169 with long streams of bright tin-ketties making for the Bowery, Division-street, and the thor- oughfares on the East-side, the day draws to a close. A comparative silence broods over the Square, broken by a sailor getting up from the East side by way of Oliver-street, and making for a harbor somewhere in the keys and recesses of Doyer and Pell streets ; a stray fisherman comes out of Catherine-street, and with his rickety wagon and long trumpet, steers for the Points through Mott-street, break- ing the silence with a doleful cry, " Oysters ! — ■ any good — Oy-s-ters I" Midnight strikes from the clock at the Fork, and — we all go to bed. And here, ladies and gentlemen, we stand where we can look straight down into that dark and dismal hollow of the Five Points, which sets us as we walk through — step care- fully, ladies and gentlemen ! — thinking upon 170 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. REFORMING THE WORLD BY WHOLESALE. If we encounter a fellow-being who is hun- gry, and hand him a loaf of bread, which appeases his appetite, we know that we have done him a service. If we announce from the house-top, and in the market-place, that we think the condition of every man on the face of the earth should be ameliorated, and come down only to organize great societies to go to Australia and the North Pole, to repeat the same theoretical statement, we ought not to be sure that we have done " any great things," after all. By great brags and large professions of universal kindness, we are very likely to let go our duty to our neighbors, and those who are nearest and should be dearest to us. These reflections occur to us in connection with a recent incident. A meagre, hollow- chested gentleman, with straight hair, and of a chalky complexion, waited upon us one day REFORMING THE WORLD BY WHOLESALE. 171 last week, and insisted upon laying before us a comprehensive plan for the reformation and improvement of the citizens and subjects of Eussia, Prussia, France, Italy, Ireland, and Great Britain. We took the liberty of asking him whether his own condition could not be improved ? " In what respect, sir ?" " Why, sir," we replied, " if you would get up every morning, and throw stones into a cart for a couple of hours, or saw fire- wood for your neighbors, we think you would enlarge your chest, which seems now to be rapidly falling in, and greatly add to your own imme- diate comfort." He looked blank for a moment, but recover- ing himself, proposed to argue the question on the celebrated Five Points of Theology. We had no time to spare for further answer, than to recommend him to study the Five Points of Orange, Cross, and Anthony streets. With a ghastly smile, he departed, and we never ex 172 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. pect to see him again. While his head is in a frenzy about the people at the other end of the world, poor fellow, he is " caving in" him- self as fast as he can. His plans are altogether too vague and distant. And he is but a better specimen of a whole race of modern reformers — men of so loose ideas, that they are always at least a mile wide of their mark, in their at- tempts to benefit their fellow-men. The breeches (with respect,) these people contrive, are so large and comprehensive, that while they are intended for all mankind, they fit so poorly, that they do not afford the least comfort to the limbs of a single member of the whole human race. It is the philanthropy of the moon, which, while it looks very full and pure, does not furnish one ray of heat ; while the honest old sun goes about his day's w T ork with genuine ardor, and makes the world happy with his every-day light, without any pretence of excessive purity or freedom from OUR FESTIVALS. 173 blemish, which that wretched impostor and borrower, the moon, claims as her special virtue. Ladies and gentlemen, having conducted you through the city on both sides, with such pictorial help in illustration of scene and char- acter as I could, I have but a " stretch" or two more of canvas to unroll before I dismiss you. "Will you pardon me, as we approach a sort of grand climax in the Panorama, if I say a word upon a general topic of which that is for the present moment the special example ? What is to be thought of OUR FESTIVALS. The metropolis of New York is unquestion- ably the favorite child of Brother Jonathan ; and repeats the features of its wide-awake and universal parent, with the greatest truth and 174 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. freshness. Ours is an age of miscellaneous activity, of which Jonathan himself may fairly claim to be the prime representative, and of all miscellanies, Manhattan is certainly the most comprehensive and various. Of contributions to this mighty medley a notion may be formed when it is known that in a late report, the im- migration for one year to this port ranged from a single Malay up to a hundred thousand Irishmen, embracing in the intermediate figures of the scale, representatives of something like thirty nations. The result is that in our streets a thousand streams of character, dress, dialect, cross each other, and that no such thing as a pure streak is to be had ; there is scarcely any class large enough to stand by itself and to control public opinion. This will explain in a considerable degree why it is that in all our public entertainments, theatres, concerts, balls, lectures, &c, &c, and even in the pro- fessedly exclusive opera itself, provision is required to be made for all tastes ; so that a OUR FESTIVALS. 175 sufficient number may be called in to counte- nance and sustain the enterprise. Where an average is in this way struck in literature or the arts, it will of necessity fall below the high- est standards ; common-place would become the rule : and if our glorious metropolis should therefore, fail on public occasions to produce the impression which might be expected from its size and its resources, it will be understood that in the very scale of these resources lies the chief difficulty. A village spectacle of the humblest compass would, we fancy, as a mere piece of picturesqueness, be more effective and satisfactory than the grand and enormous " turn outs," in which New York from time to time, indulges. New York has all the mate- rials in ample variety and abundance, for an epic city on a grand scale ; but it wants direc- tion and unity. How are these to be acquired and secured ? Clearly nothing can be accom- plished in pursuits or engagements of a private character. We cannot prescribe to the build- 176 THE FEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. ers of residences that they shall be constructed on any general principles, or that harmony shall be observed either in a suitable concord or discord of arrangement. "We cannot bring the proprietors of omnibuses to acknowledge pictorial propriety in the build and embellish- ment of their coaches ; nor can we enact or enforce sumptuary laws for the regulation of the dress of our citizens, so that they shall present suitable colors and agreeable contrasts. For all these and like matters, the town is a chartered libertine, and will have its own way without let or hindrance. There is, however, a very decided inclination among our people to come together, without distinction of class, caste, or degree ; and this is one of the happiest auguries of our age and country. In no coun- try on the surface of the globe are so many professions, callings, and trades represented, ranging from the highest to the humblest, mingled in common, and on terms of perfect equality, as in one of our public assemblies, OUR FESTIVALS. 177 whether it be church, theatre, lecture-room or political gathering. It is a fortunate necessity of our community, so various in country and pursuit, that they are thus brought together on a free footing ; and the oftener it occurs, the more speedily and constantly shall we be- come a fraternal, united, and homogeneous community. The occasions to which we have referred, are, however, limited in their scope and in the numbers upon which they act. The influences and opportunities are rare which inspire the whole body of our citizens with a common sentiment, and force them into a like- thinking and like-feeling society. Such, for instance, as the death of a President, the com- mon ruler of the country, (although this may be touched with partisan biases;) or the achievement of a national victory, as in the case of the late Mexican war, when, we re- member with a glow, how the whole inhabita- tion of our metropolis poured into the streets at night, and we saw no less than a hundred 178 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. thousand men, women, and children — inclu- ding the fairest in costly apparel, and the plain- est in homely garb — assembled in a public park, as witnesses of the triumphant illumina- tion. We knew the heart, we felt that night the power of the great community in which we live ; and we will engage that a secret in- spection of the movements and motives of our fellow-citizens would have shown less asperity, and the pressure of a kindlier bond following that night's joyful celebration. Occasions like these are, in their very nature, accidental and rare : and we can accordingly found our hope only on established holidays of regular recur- rence. Meanwhile, let us confess that this is an excitable city of a wonderfully changeable humor. The spirits of New York are up and down, the entire length of the barometer, at least a dozen times in the year. One short month works w T onders in the aspect of our volatile metropolis. Houses are down that were up — brick-piles, inspired with OUR FESTIVALS. 179 life by the magic glance of the architect, spring up to be houses. Streets are shut up which were open — -and new highways cut through earth and rock. Churches changed into auction-rooms — theatres into churches. All alive with a dog at every door — and then not a yelp to be heard in all the town. New liberty-poles erected, and flags flying one day for France, the next for Italy, the next for Hungary — shad come and gone — strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, and all the kindred and family of berries — wedding-garments made and worn-out — funerals by the score, by the hundred. Some general malady, for example, comes upon the town — how sad the city ! As in a single night all smiles depart — the eyes of the city as of one man, dull and gloomy — ■ the step of the people slow and troubled — the very negroes stop laughing. This is under the first access and alarm. One short month, and under Providence, the healthy con- stitution of our Island City has happily sur- 180 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. vived the shock, and promises to live on a long life of peace, liberality, and prosperous com- merce. The citizen has recovered his New York rapidity of pace — -the children are out again with their hoops — the dustman has con- fidence to lift up his voice — the milkman wields his bell with its old clamor. The very trees shake their leaves as if they knew, (as they probably do,) that the prevailing epidemic is gone or going. We hear sundry canary birds of our acquaintance, absolutely tongue-tied for weeks, singing as if for dear life — and we think we discover at Niblo's Garden that Francois Ravel has several extraordinary comic twists of the leg and contortions of the countenance which he had laid aside for a time — brought forward as fresh as new. The mayor of the city recovers something of his proper municipal pomp of manner, and the Board of Aldermen and Assistants begin to smack strongly in the supper-room. ON THE ROAD. 181 And now that we have dispatched the city- proper, let us take car and roll along our pan- oramic way to the extreme landmark of its present civilization, to wit, the Crystal Palace. "What line shall we take ? Here are yellow cars and red cars, and salmon-colored cars, and clean cars, and dingy cars ; and omnibuses two-horsecl, four-horsed, and twelve-horsed, (with feathers in their ears,) all pouring toward that great up-town terminus — which shall we take ? If there were a car or an omnibus with a comfortable seat a-top, there would be a chance — for unless you have tried it, you can't fancy the new views of life you get from an elevation like the driver's seat of the omnibuses — glimp- ses of interiors, far-off views, river and country- perspectives down side streets, all utterly lost to the poor prisoner caged within, and lim- ited to the narrow look-out of the window. We have made our choice and away we go ! A steamer is just in, as is known by the guns 182 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. fired in the direction of the Battery half an- hour ago — and what cloud is it that has rained down these clamorous boys all over the city ? and who are these wonderful boys to be seen everywhere — swift of foot, wide-awake, nimble- fingered, superhuman in activity, and typical in their universality, of this great metropolis itself? These are THE NEWSBOYS. The genuine Newsboy, in his full develop- ment and activity, we fancy, does not exist, except in New York. Your Philadelphia Newsboy, now, has a sort of slow-and-easy, deliberate sing-song, which inspires you with anything but a desire to read the news. But in New York the quick, snapping cry, uttered while under a full run, and trailing along like the smoke of a steam-pipe with the boat at the top of her speed, communicates a sort of excitement to the dullest laggard in the street, and sets the whole city in a state of THE NEWSBOYS. 183 effervescence directly. The Newsboy is the lemon in the tumbler of everyday life, making it pungent and smart with a flavor. Without him, the giant's arm, the Press, would lose much of its power, and half its activity. He is the spider's leg which feels and forewarns the com- munity of approaching news — the taster of the great cup of Newspaperism, which everybody quatfs. Formerly the Newsboy cried the leading featnre of his news — but he found that many hundreds did not care to hear any more, and passed on without buying. So now he has become chary of his crying, and gives as little as possible of the purport of his budget. If you stop him and inquire what is the news, you may get a civil answer — but we would advise you not to rely too much on the accu- racy of the intelligence. If you would have the news, fork over your pennies for an Extra Tribune, Times, Herald, or Sun, and then read it honestly and with a clean conscience. We have never made the attempt to count 184 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. the Newsboys, but we suppose, from a gener- al observation of them in all their haunts and localities, that there are about three hundred regularly and permanently on duty — increased by fifty or more on extraordinary occasions. "When the first Newsboy appeared, or where he came from, no man has yet told : we sup- pose, as to his parentage, he was the son of an Oysterman, from whom he derived his voice, and the free and self-possessed manner with which he employs it in the street. In his dress, he does not affect the latest fashions. No Newsboy, no legitimate News- boy, has ever been seen in a whole suit. The uniform of his Craft is a slouched cloth cap, dilapidated roundabout and breeches, no shoes nor stockings, and a dirty face with hands to match. Notwithstanding the diligent and elaborate search we have instituted, we have not been able to ascertain where the Newsboy has fur- nished himself with his dress. We have in- THE NEWSBOYS. 185 quired at all the tailors : not one of them is tailor to the Newsboys. At the slop shops they work for the sailors, not for the News- boys. At the second-hand clothes-dealers in Chatham-street, they do not recollect to have ever had a Newsboy for a customer. Some have supposed their rigs, or fit outs, are thrown into the street over night, by unseen hands, and picked up early in the morning by the Boys. Others, that they grow upon the News- boys by degrees, like moss about tree-trunks : that one day a pair of trousers comes, the next week what they call a coat, and then, as the season advances, an old cloth-cap. For ourselves we believe these suits have descended to the Nineteenth Century from a remote antiquity ; that they are fragments of the costume of a remote period, artfully reconstructed : and it is not impossible, (and the heathen manner in which they are freely riddled gives plausi- bility to the conjecture,) that some of them have figured in the Crusades. Find us the 186 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. tailor who makes the Newsboy's Uniform, and we will tell you when the American Union is going to be dissolved. "We are afraid Tom Newsboy is a trifle pro- fligate ; he swears, we know, freely ; drinks, fights, and very often stays out all night. This last we must not dwell on too strongly as a vice, for it is often a necessity. Tom having no home to go to, and not thinking it worth while to be at a charge for lodgings, takes up his quarters for the night in a box or bunk, under a stoop or in an entry way, where half a dozen of them frequently huddle together, heads and points, with a shaggy dog in their midst, as good a fellow as any of them. Tom indulges, too, in games of chance, and is scarcely ever without dice, small cards, and other implements of hazard in his pocket. "We believe he has some games peculiar to himself, of his own devising. He pitches pennies sometimes, like all other boys, or plays at marbles ; but this he holds to be a small busi- THE NEWSBOYS. 187 ness. In general he disdains the common sports of youth, and rises on the wing into a loftier region of his own. The most extraordinary feature, perhaps, in the whole history of the Newsboy, is his pro- found passion for the Theatre. This is one of the earliest uses to which he devotes his first earnings. The Chatham or the Bowery, has always the first-fruits. At the opening of the doors he throws himself into the pit, and with judicial steadiness watches the progress of the piece. He generally takes possession of the middle of the benches : many of them, by inscribing their names thereupon with a knife, securing them' against invasion, and oc- cupying them, (as they suppose,) by as good a right, and with more regularity nightly, than the rich frequenters of Grace Church and St. Patrick's, their pews, with their names embla- oned on polished plates, at an annual rent of five hundred dollars the pew. He affects, in his dramas, thunder and light- 188 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. ning, long-swords, casques, and black-whiskered villains, with mysterious exits and entrances, in preference to every-day life. In bloody and violent death-scenes he revels like a little pirate. There was a Mr. Kirby — he is gone now, poor fellow — we hope he passed into the other world at theE. H. door ! — who had great favor among the Newsboys by his convulsive, awful manner of yielding up the ghost on the stage. Many boys whose engagements did not permit an entire attendance, have paid the full price to be in at one of Kirby's death- struggles. They were unquestionably the most magnificent things (of their kind) ever seen in this country. The Newsboys, however, held the late Mr. Kirby to a strict account. If he omitted a single groan or distortion of fea- ture, there was a general howl of disapproba- tion through the pit, and that actor was com- pelled, more than once, to go through a death- struggle a second and even a third time, till it THE NEWSBOYS. 189 satisfied the high requirements of these young censors. Not only in his keen judgment in such ques- tions of Art, but in all Newsboy accomplish- ments, the New York practitioner, compared with the Newsboy of other cities, takes the lead by several lengths, in speed of foot, power of vociferation, rapidity of utterance, force of character — in fact, like every thing New York, he is at the head of his class. After the theatre, the chief luxury of the Newsboy is, in common, a glass or half-a-dozen glasses of a crimson whity mixture, supposed to be or to stand for ice-cream ; and in winter, an equal number of cups of gloomy coffee, at a penny a cup, as the other is a penny a glass. No won- der they have customs and usages of their own : for this is, certainly, a peculiar business which summons forth young boys, mere lads, at all hours, associating them in a manner with the mighty Press, at that early time of life, and cramming their pockets with silver, more 190 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. spend ing-money than the richest merchant's son, which they may disburse, when, how, and where they desire, without accountability to any one. They often make two and three dol- lars from a steamer's " Extra," in an hour ; selling from fifty to one hundred and fifty papers, at a heavy advance on first cost. It is the duty of the Newsboy to watch the Press, as a rat watches a mouse; to be on hand at all hours, seasonable and unseasonable, for foreign or domestic news of importance, as much as the editors or proprietors of the journal. At the moment of delivery, he seizes the reeking paper, and rushing forth like one distracted, they fill all the streets of the city, far and near, in an inconceivably short space of time, with their bold and startling cries. These are not always to be taken as Gospel. They sometimes bring on a revolution impromptu, and depose a king without notice. Against certain mem- bers of the royal families of Europe, they seem to cherish a bitter spite. We believe the THE NEWSBOYS. 191 Newsboys itched for months to announce the deposition of Louis Phillippe : as much might have been inferred from the fervor — the more than fervor, the fury — with which they bel- lowed out his downfall, when, at last, it did come. We think, as a body, they would an- nounce the flight of Prince Albert and Queen Victoria, and the disruption of the British Empire, with the greatest satisfaction. As in all communities there are leaders, so there are Chief Newsboys or Foremen ; small Capital- ists, who furnish the papers to the boys, re- quiring an account at night, and allowing them a part of the profits or reasonable wages. It is to these — to whom King Mark McGuire is the Chief — that the " bursted-up" boys apply, to be set up again in business, when by impro- vidence or neglect, they have become insolvent. The Newsboys, for the sake of the fresh air, sometimes make short trips down East, or to Albany, in the steamboats, or on the cars be- tween the cities, getting a free passage, (with 192 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. a newspaper or two to the clerk or conductor,) and selling what they can by the way. The city, is, however their main stay. We have been told that Newsboys have been seen at cock-fights, in back-yards and sub- terranean places about the city ; and that they have even figured as owners of game-fowls. This we do not believe. It's a scandal put in circulation by the enemies of the brotherhood. That the}^ swear, fight, cheat, and run wild at night, we have frankly admitted, but the cock- fights we deny. We have a friendship for the Order, and we must make a stand somewhere. It has also been asserted (from some touches of grandeur we have noticed glimmering out from among his rags — we can believe this,) that in the pride of his spirit, and in the dig- nity of his intimate connection with the pub- lic journals, two or three newsboys have been known to club together, and purchase at auc- tion, a horse and wagon — both of light build — (value of the outfit, including harness, tail- THE NEWSBOYS. 193 board, &c, $4.25,) with which they have been seen sporting in afternoon rides on the Avenue, like so many young gentlemen of fortune. We wonder whether it has ever occurred to any Newsboy of reflecting turn, what a mighty instrument for good or evil, he has in that voice of his — the peace of how many families he has broken or cheered by his loud and long cry of steamer or packet — what mischief he has wrought by false alarms — how many ears have been strained to catch its far-off* sound, whose all of weal or woe in this life, hung suspended on the Newsboy's breath. A piece of advice we shall venture, as the friends of these young gentlemen : If the pas- sion is strong upon them to dabble in literature, let them stick to the legitimate business of the Morning and Evening newspapers, regular and extra, and not allow themselves to be seduced by grown men, (who should have more sense and self-respect,) to deal in dirty foreign novels, and filthy compositions of home manu- 194 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. facture on a similar mode]. Let them shun the contraband sale of obscene books and prints, as they would red-hot coals of fire ; which would burn up in them every good prin- ciple, and reduce them to a sapless, ashy, and worthless old age. We can imagine no more pitiful or revolting sight than one of these chil- dren, under the promptings of some old fiend of mischief from behind his " respectable" counter, sneaking about the hotels, steamboat landings, and public parks, having concealed in his bosom, the seeds of ruin, and stealthily seeking to cast them in the laps of others. Heaven must weep and devils grin, when poison is so diffused with a double damnation, killing the soul of buyer and seller with a subtle and fatal power. Boys ! you had better jump into a furnace at white heat, than to have any thing more to do with this low and nasty traffic ! Stick to the newspapers ! What kind of citizens these Newsboys will make — what kind of creatures will spring from THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 195 these mixed elements of turmoil, street-running, precocious activity of body and mind, and pre- cocious profusion of cash, no one can guess; for the system — started some ten or fifteen years since — has not been long enough in ope- ration to bring many of them of age. Onr best wishes are with the Boys. I am not going to put myself out of favor with all mankind, by asserting that this is the finest Panorama ever penned or painted, and that New York is the only city in all Christen- dom worthy of such special pictorial notice ; but this I will say, ladies and gentlemen — I have said it before and I will abide by it now — New York is the eldest and favorite child of Brother Jonathan, and that whatever toy he takes a fancy to, the boy must be indulged in his humor. Yorkey has taken a fancy for a Crystal Palace, and a Crystal Palace the darly- 196 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. darling shall have. The lad must every now and then be furnished with a knob, a good, big, palpable knob, to open the door to some new amusement, and here he has it. By some secret law of aggregation, analogous to the movements of the blood in the human system, the world comes periodically to a head upon some spot on its surface, and breaks out at pretty regular intervals, with a new island at sea, a volcano on lnnd, an Eglinton tournament, or a World's Fair. These may be vents of relief or tumors indicating foregone excesses of the old globe, which, being once fairly dis- charged, the world is free for a time to pursue its regular paths with the steady gait of puri- fied convalescence ; or, on the other hand, they may be looked on as the crests or knolls of history, by the use of which Time advances from one era of development to another. It is doubtless in this fairer light that observers are just now disposed to speculate upon the Exhi- bition of the World's Industry in this very THE CRYSTAL FALACE. 197 Metropolis of New York. As a mere assem- blage of people, it will prove one of the most motley and various within the remembrance of man : not a clime nor country, however far removed from that centre, but will have its representative, urged thither by all the preter- natural agencies of our times ; stimulated to the very extremities of the earth by steamer, railway, and telegraph ; and in the Crystal Palace, Eeservoir Square, Manhattan Island, the Tower of Babel will rise again, in a confu- sion of tongues which no polyglot nor series of polyglots can ever attempt to interrupt. The place is New York ; the products are the con- tributions of all nations — there are no other elements of unity discoverable — and what white men call hodge-podge, and the Indians harum-scarum, will inevitably rule the univer- sal medley. No scheme could have been de- vised by metaphysical ingenuity so likely to draw into question the unity of our race ; and we can imagine something of the astonishment 198 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. with which the representatives of the different points of the compass will find themselves in contact — ail bi-furcated creatures — without any other possible point of alliance or sympa- thy: None other than the Grand Central Building known as THE CRYSTAL PALACE. If we fancy the Island of Manhattan a great hump whale which has struck for the Atlantic by the way of the Highlands of the Hudson River, and has come to a pause with its snout in the Bay of New York, the Crystal Palace, midway up between the two rivers, will stand for the hump. And — oh ! Bacchus, son of Semele ! — what seas of drink we have about us, for the whale to swim in — from what oceans of julep, and cobbler, and punch, and port, and toddy, does that beautiful dome spring into the air. One would fancy from the great abundance of springs of a peculiar sort here- about, that the Crystal Palace was a fairy THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 199 structure in the desert. Look around ! Here is the Empire House and the Troy House, and the Trojan House ; Jones's, Cox's, The Tontine, The Albion, and, in a perfect swarm, the whole military family of the Thompson's, (powerful in the drinking line,) Colonel Thomp- son's, Major Thompson's, Captain Thompson's, Corporal Thompson's. We all exclaim, what a dreadful thirsty neighborhood is this ? As if all the publicans in the world had said — and with a truth — as Sir Charles Lyell, English Commissioner to the American Exhibition, would certify to us — " That's a sandy soil up there — dry as Sahara — we must go up thither and moisten it : come, ye mighty pourers-out of cobbler, ye mixers of punch, concocters of cock-tail, and all ye other sons of the bar — the earth gapes for drink !" And then, beside the human necessities, behold ! what cattle — the twelve fat oxen, and the mammoth steers, that huge living crocodile, to say nothing of the dancing bear, and the anaconda from Brazil, 200 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. the alligator nine feet long, (there's stowage for fluids !) the three live rattlesnakes, the calf with six legs, and the wonderful cow with double horns — (two men to wait on her alone !) Was there ever such surrounding to such a structure ? But, my friends, let us tarry no longer with- out — let us enter the beautiful building : it is about to be opened this day. We have crossed the threshold, and all those eccentric surround- ings are forgotten — we are now in a new world. How far away stretch the aisles ! how loftily the dome lifts up ! and riding through the centre, as author and master of the scene, that great image of Washington horsed in bronze — serenely he regards this scene of tran- quil industry as there he sits aloft — the Man without bigotry, without bias, acting for all, aided by all; a renown great at the beginning : deepening its hold, spreading its base, and lift- ing loftier its summit in every subsequent gen- eration : energetic in a righteous war, equally THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 201 ready for a righteous peace : honored by all honorable men at home and abroad. Even as on that great horse, upon the affections of the People he marches on over the land, and we bless the day that gave him to us; The day to us this man was born, Whose memory is like the morn, Which riseth calmly in the East And brightens on toward the West, Each hour more lovely and more blest ! Far shores and isles behold, and praise The champion of our gloomy days — Happy the father of such son, Happy the mother who upon His cradle poured her benison ! He was a child of Truth and Peace, And loved the silent fields' increase — The sword he took and laid aside, Calmly, and with far less of pride Than when he mowed with sickle wide • 202 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. Behold ! how the crowds of fair women and quick eyed men, throng from the galleries, spread themselves thick upon platforms about the floors — the trumpets are blown, and enter — successor to the mighty man there up on high — the present President of the United States — the Palace is inaugurated — and as if contact with him were electrical, and had some- thing of the virtue ascribed in old times to the royal touch, there is a general dash for the Pre- sidential hand — he wheels — he grasps — now you see him and now you don't ! — he is over- borne as by the waves of the sea — men of all nations, of all climes, are there, eager to ac- knowledge the living embodiment of our great Continent, The crowds melt away from the platforms, trickle off from the galleries — all is still — the glorious light of the moon beams through the dome — and Washington, still riding triumphantly, is alone in the House Beautiful ! bird's-eye view of the city. 203 We have now, ladies and gentlemen, passed some time together upon the level ground — we have been up street and down street, across the town and about the town : and now by way of a final novelty have you any objection to rise with me into the air and from a con- siderable elevation, (not quite as lofty as the Alps or Mount Blanc,) to get a notion of the Metropolis as a whole, and in the far-com- manding position it bears on the general map of the country ? Up we go, then, to take our grand closing BIRD'S- EYE VIEW OF tfEW YORK FROM LAT- TING'S OBSERVATORY. Having breathed our way three hundred feet, to the highest window of the wooden tower, (which is dashed down just at the side of the Crystal Palace, like a tall mark of ex- clamation at the completion and beauty of that structure,) in the grey of morning, we see a mighty blank of haze spread on every side 204 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. from which emerges, first some houses near at hand, then, as the sun unrolls the wide veil, there comes out more and more of the great city, the two rivers, the East and the North, then the suburbs ; Brooklyn, near by, rising on its heights ; New Jersey, with its great factory chimney ; Hoboken, w T ith its green walks ; "Williamsburgh, with its countless little cot- tages ; then in the Bay, the Islands, Governor's, with its dark stone fort ; Gibbet's, (where the pirates are hung) ; Staten Island, with ridgy back ; villages dropped along the shore ; Pater- son with the Falls, scarcely visible ; farther on in Jersey, Newark, quite conspicuous ; the Nar- rows, with early ships coming in, all sail set, or fading aw r ay into the distant ocean ; Gow T an- us, on Long Island, with the gleaming monu- ments of Greenwood Cemetery here and there discernible ; Bedford ; Flatbush, with its tidy w 7 hite country mansions, almost lost in trees ; Jamaica, with its celebrated race-course ; Newtown ; then, re-crossing the East River, bird's-eye view of the city. 205 Yorkville, springing up among the rocks ; Bloomingdale. advertized by its single church- steeple ; Harlem, a good deal at random, but defined by its heights and the bridge ; and be- yond all, Morrisania, and divers steeples, prick- ing up in "Westchester County, as far as the eye can reach. As for the city itself, it bears, generally, a flat appearance ; as of a level har- vest field bristling with spires — the streets, at that height are so many threads. At sunrise, or just before, a faint murmur of life begins to creep up, lumbering market-wagons are com- ing in from the country for the first sales ; as the day advances, it grows rapidly with sounds of carts, stages, labor, factories, the clang of iron, the racket of stores, the cries of workmen ; human feet, thousands upon thousands beating the pavement every minute — into a mighty roar, or rather moaning, as of a great bull ; no one sound distinguishable from another, ex- cept, perhaps, a well-blown trumpet blast when a band of music passes directly under the 206 THE PEN-A\ T D-1NK PANORAMA, tower. Scarcely anything is sharply marked enough to discolor the broad stream of life ; you may see the white-backed omnibuses pouring down Broadway in quick succession ; a military procession tinges it with a few streaks of red and white. You always see flags flying over the city, but you can't tell at that height whether they are at the top of the staff, half-mast, or run down ; whether for a rejoicing or a calamity. The shipping you can't help taking notice of, if you would ; it fringes the city like a heavy beard ; contending with the church-spires, and out-numbering them a hundred to one. Sails are making for New York from every direction, down the Sound through Hell Gate, and the East River; on the broad Hudson; in from the Ocean ; ships, sloops, steamboats ; an everlast- ing activity of these last from morning till night, plying in the rivers and about the Bay. And, running your eye about the limits of the city proper, you begin to acquire from that bird's-eye view of the city. 207 commanding look-out, some idea of the vast size — the gro\ving power and expansion of the city. You have known it before piece-meal — a street here, a building or two there — but now you see it in the mass, stretching towards the East, stretching towards theWest — with chim- neys innumerable, avenues, parks, public build- ings, huddling upon each other, as if no man could count them. In the edges you do not see it growing as in its infancy, with a strag- gling house here or there ; but whole blocks and squares of new edifices starting from the ground at once, and in a hurried rivalry of brick and mortar, racing out of town. As a sort of morality for yourself, in this ascent and approach to heaven, by way of this lofty wooden tower, you acquire some- thing of a heaven-like consciousness of the unimportance of earth, and affairs earthly; for you cannot make out — you cannot bring home to yourself — strain your eyes as you may — a single object which engages your 208 THE PEN-AND-INK PANORAMA. worldly interests or affections, when you are at your ordinary level below — youV shop, your house, your church — (that which, in its peculiar purity, you think Heaven must surely take notice of) — where are they, in all that heap of things ? Specks, dust, fly-blows. One thing, however, and above all, you are clearly sensi- ble of at that great height — you feel it, if you do not see it — a universal movement of all the inland country towards New York as its cen- tre ; everything, by an irresistible impulse or momentum, driving or driven on towards the city. It is not merely so much of the neigh- borhood as you can reach in an easy walk, that belongs to New York, but the whole country as far as the eye can sweep — farther, too, than that — is its suburb. There's not a man in a distant wagon, on a far-away Jersey road, not a ploughman in the field in the very depth of Westchester, nor a fisherman toiling in the ocean, ever so far from land, whose heart is not fixed on New York, who is not thinking of bird's-eye view of the city. 209 the markets and the cash of the metropolis, when he drives his cart, or marks his furrow, or casts his net. The birds that pass, as they often do, at this starry height, cannot, with all their strength of wing, fly to where New- York is not a paramount idea, affecting the business and the conduct of men. Ladies and gentlemen, the Pen-and-ink- Panorama of New-York City is closed — I am much obliged to you for your attendance, and hope to have the pleasure of meeting you again. TH E END. \