SEYMOUR DURST -t ' 'Fort nUutv ^rn^tTtl4t^ eUerie I IIK IIVDSUN BlViER, THE WES) . STiGEROAD; COMPRISING ALSO THE ROUTES TO LEBANON, BALLSTON, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS. NEW-YO I'SlNTED B? J. &. }. HARPKB, No. 82 Cliff-strcef SOUTHERN DISTRIC'I" OF NF.W-VORK, j». BR IT BBMEMBKREn, That on the 30ih day of July. A. I). 1830, iti Ihe fiflyfiflh year of the independence ftf the tinired Slalea ot America, R. J. VANDKWATER, of the said district, has deposilwi in this nSice the title of a liook, Ibe right whureoi be claims as Author and Fmprietor, ia the words followiog, to wit : " The Tourist, or Pocket Manual for Travellers on the lludsnn River, the Western Canal, iind yiage Road ; comprising ;rf«f), Ihe Routes to Lelianon, Ballstnnj and Saratoga Springs." In conformity to the Act of the^^ngress of Ihe United State*, entiflc) " An Art for the encouragement of Leamin^^, by securing tlic copijes of map«, charts, and Ixiolts, tii the authors and proprietors of soch copies, during (he times therein mentioned." And also to an Act entitled, "An Act, supplementary to as^pl* entitleii an Act for th^ encwi- ragement of I.ean!iing, by securing the copies of in^iL charts, and bnoki, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, durin; Ihe times therein mention^")!, and exlendini; the benefitB thereof to the arts of de«igning, engraving, and etchini^ hiilot ieal and olher prints. FRi:i)i;iucK .i. nKT r.'*. C'crft of tht SaiUhtrn DUtritl of Knv-iark. PREFACE. The object of the work wliicli is now presented to the public, is to imbody, within the smallest practicable limits, the information most needed by the traveller, to direct him to scenes and objects worthy of notice, and calculated to excit. curiosity. It is believed that all the information required by tourists through this state, will be found in the pages of this work, divested of unnecessary de- tails, and clearly arranged and classified. Some of the items, especially in relation to this city, the steamboat navigation, and the canal and stage routes, are probably more full and accurate than have been contained in any of the itineraries already published ; while in the enumeration of interesting points on the Hudson and elsewhere, brevity has been observed, from a desire, as much as possible, to compress the work, so as to render it emphatically the pocket companion of the tra- veller, and its price proportionally moderate. The Compiler having been long connected with one of the North River steamboats, has had the best opportunities of obtaining correct informa- tion.; and every statement made in thi^ work may be relied on as accurate. HEJFEilEiNOEjj. * Places at which tho regular steamboats, run- ning between New- York and Albany, land. E. S. East side of the river. W. S. West side of the river. Distances on the river will be ascertained by referring to the map of the Hudson which is con- nected with this work. Distances on the canal will be seen by referring to the table at page 3?. STEAMBOATS FROM NEW-YOR'' NORTH RIVER LINE. From the foot of Barclay-Street. North America* .... Capt. James Benson Albany J. G. Jenkins Leave New-York and Albany alternately every day (except JVTonday) at 7 o'clock a. m. New Philadelphia . . . Capt. G. E. Seymour Dewitt Clinton Sherman' Leave New-York and Albany alternately every day (except Sunday) at 5 o'clock p. m. HUDSON RIVER LINE. From the foot of Cortlandt-Street. Ohio Capt. M. Bartholomew Constitution A. Hoyt Leave New-York alternately every day (ex- cept Sunday) at 5 o'clock p. m. On Sundays at 10 o'clock A. M. Leave Albany every day at 10 o'clock A. H. * This splendid boat made the papsagc from Alliany to New-Vorkf in 1839, in 10 hours and 10 mimilps, including stoppoi^es, wlticll w«i>^ at least one hour. Thia is ttie shortest p:i5sttge on record. Constellation A 2) NAVIGA';|JION LINE. From the foot of Ciftlandt-Strett. Commerce . . . ' . . Capt. Pease, with the Safety barege Lady Clinton . . . Cowdin Leaves New-York Tuesdays, Thursdays and Satur- days. Albany, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Swiftsure Capt. Murray Leaves Albany with freight barges Fridays and Tuesdays, and New-York Tlhursdays and Saturdays. TROY LLNE. From the foot of C'ortlandt-Strect. Chief Justice Marshall . . . Capt. Ira Ford Leaves New-York and Albany three times a week. UNION LINE For Philadelphia, from the battery, Pier JVo. 1 , Korlh River. . Swan Capt. De Graw Leaves evei-y day (except Sunday) at 7 o'clock 4. M. Through by daj'light, via. New-Brunswick and Trenton. Thistle Capt. Diehl Leaves every day (e.xcept Sunday) at 12 o'clock, noon. Passengers lodge at Trenton and arrive in Philadelphia early next morning. CITIZEN''S LINE For Philadelphia, from the foot of Morris-Street, J^orth River. New-York Capt. George Jenkin? Leaves every morning (except Sunday) at ♦ o'clock. Through by daylight, via. Bordentown: SXEAMiiO-VrS 111031 JMiU-VOJtK. < NEW-YQRK and JOSTON LINE. ^ Fresident Capt. R. S. Bunker Chancellor Livingston Coggeshall Benjamin Franklin E. S. Bunker Wasbington Comstock One oPtlie boats leaves every day Xexcept Sunday) at 4 o'clock, p. M. The Washington from the foot of Fulton-Street, East River, and the others from the foot of Cortlandt-Street, North River. The boats go to Providence, Rhode Island, where pas- sengers take stages, and ride 40 miles to Boston. NEW-HAVEN LINE From the foot of Maiden-Lane. United States Capt. Beecher Hudson Sanford Leave alternately every day at 8 o'c^ck a. m. Citizen Capt. Brooks Leaves the foot of Catherine-Street for JVeai-Zfown, touching at Norwalk and Bridgeport, every day (ex-* cept Sundaj') at 6 o'clock a. m. Victory Capt. S. Smith Leaves the foot of Beekman-Street,£ast River, for Harford, on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 4 o'clock p. M. Newark . Capt. B. Tate Leaves the fbotof Barclay-Streeteveiy day (except Sunday) at 10 o'clock a. m. and 4 p. .^i., for Newark, (New-Jersey.) General Jackson ...... Capt. Vanwart Leaves the loot of Warren-Street for Tarrytown, Singsing, and Peekskill, every morning at 8 o'clock, :ind returns in the afternoon. 8 THE TOUHIST John Jay . . . f ^ .... Capt. Bailey Leaves, for the saine^laces, frofh the foot of Mur- ray-Street eveiy afternoon at 3 o'clock ; returns in the morning. Orange Capt. Leaves the foot of Robinson-Street for Njjack every day (except Sunday) at 11 o'clock a. m., and leaves there returning, at 4 o'clock p. m. Bolivar Capt. O. VanderhiJt Leaves Whitehall dock, daily, at Sand 11a. m. and 3, 5, and 7 p. m. for the Quarantine ground (Slaten Island), and returns at the intermediate hours. Kkishing Capt. Peck Leaves Fulton-market slip everj' day for Flushing, Long Island, touching at Hallet's cove and Ward s Island ; returns the same day. Linnaeus Capt. E. Peck Leaves^ulton-inarket slip every day for New- Rochelle Musqueto Cove, at 3 o'clock p. m. Steam Ferry-Boals ^ Leave the loot of Barclay-Street for Hoboken every 15 minutes. The lawn, groves and walks, along the bank of the river at Hoboken, afford a delightful prospect and are visited by immense numbers.' BOATS leave the footofCortlandt-Streetfor Jer- sey City every 15 minutes. BOATS leave the foot of Fulton-Street, East Ri ver, for Brooklyn every 10 minutes. There are a number of other small steamboat which ply to and from various nlaces. Halts oj' Fare in Hackney Coaches in .\'eu;- k oric. If the driver and stranger disagree as to distance, the street commissioner will decide. For t^ing a person any distance not ex- i;eeding one mile $0 25 For taking one person any distance ex- ' ceeding a mile, and within the lamp and watch districts . . . . ; "SO For every additional passenger ... 25 For carrying a passenger to the new alms- house aiM returning 76 For every additional passenger and return- ing For conveying a passenger around the first or Sandy Hill tour 1 00 For conveying a passenger around the second or Love Lane tour 2 00 For conveying a passenger aroun(^.the third or Lake's tour . 2 50 For conveying one or more passengers around the fourth or Apthorp's tour, with the privilege ' • . Upper Red Hook. (E. S.) The village is about two miles from the landing, ia the interior. There is a hotel, a number of stores, storehouses &c. at the landing. " i" ^ The mansion south of the dock is the residence of Robert Tillotson, Esq. The first mansion north of the landing belongs to Jolfh Swift Livingston, Esq. I'ASSAtiK LI' THE IIUUSOA. It is one ol the most bnautifiil locations on the Hudson. A lew yards above is the rcsideuce of Mr. Elmendorf, also in a very eligible "situation. ♦After proceeding two miles farther, the traveller has n view of the splendid -brick mansion of R. h. Livingston, Esq., formerly tlie residence of Chancellor Livingston. A large and well-stocked hot-Iiouse is attached to ths south end of tlie building. E. P. Livingston's mansion is a few yards farther north. Bristol. (W. S.) Two sloops sail from this vil- lage to New-York. Trumpore's Landing. (\V. S.) There are four or five houses at this place : — it is the next above IJristol. Oak Hill. (E. S.) The large storehouse and dock at this place belong to Harman Livingston, Esq. His splendid mansion is situated on tiie hill ju^ above the landing. * Catskill. (\V. S.) This is the landing place for 'Uiose who visit- the Catskill Mountain House. A stage leaves patskill for Ithaca every morning at 7 o'clock to meet the steamboat on Cayuga Lake, which runs to Cayuga bridge, where stages are in readiness to convey passengers innnediately to Eochester. Passengers for Ithaca generally land at this place or Newburgh. Raimhoni Creek is seen winding through the marsh about a quarter of a mile south of the Catskill dock. Catskill Creek empties into the Hudson at the south side of the dock. It is a very considerable stream, and forms a harbour for the sloops that sail from this place. Stages are always at the dock on the arrival of the 7 o'clock boats from New-York, ready to take parties to the Mountain. The distance by the road i- 13 miles, although in a direct line, it is only s. 22 THE TOCKIST. The time taken in performing the journey is about 4 hours id going, and a little over 2 hours in return- ing. The road is very fine and level for 9 miles,, when the ascent from the foot of the mountain com- iflences by a winding road which leads to the west end of the Pine Orchard; for the following descrip- Elliott, of Catskill. ' Pine Orchard. — Few places of fashionable resort present stronger attractions to the tourist than the Pine Orchard. A few years ago this delightful retreat was almost unknown and rarely visited, but by the hardy hunter in pursuit of the deer, the bear, and the wolf, who had hitherto maintained undis- turbed possession of its cliffs and caverns. At lengtl), the tale of the extent and beauty of the prospect and the grandeur of the scenery, drew the attention of individuals of taste, and the glowing descriptions they gave of its surpassing magnificence effectually roused and fixed the attention of the public. Each successive season the number of visiters has increased till the temporary buildings at first erected for their accommodation have given place to a splendid Hotel, 140 feet in length and four stories high. This establishment has been erected by the Mountain Association, at an expense of about $22,000. It oc- cupies the Eastern verge of a table of rock some six acres in extent, and about 3000 feet above the river. An excellent line of stages is established to this place from Catskill, a distance of twelve miles. The public are much indebted to their smalt but energetic friend— that mirror of stage pioprietors E. Beach, for the excellence of his horses and car- riages, and the employment of skilful and careful drivers. The ride from Catskill to the foot of llic mountain is not particularly interesting — but as you ascend every moment developes something magni- tion of which, we are indebted PASSAGE CP THE Ht7DS0K. 23 ficent and new. The sides of the mountain, sleep and seemingly inaccessible, tower far above . you, clotlied in the rich deep foliage peculiar to such regions ; while below your path a clear stream runs, one moment bubbling over its rocky bed^and the next leaping down ils cascades to the valley. The road is extremely circuitous, and so completely hemmed in by the luxuriant growth of forest trees that the traveller is for a long time unable to judge of his progress in the ascent by any view of the country he has led. At an abrupt angle of the road,, however, he obtains at once a full view of the iVIountain House — perched like the eyrie of an eagle among the clouds — or rather like the enchanted castle in faiiytaSe ; seemingly inaccessible to mortal foot, still ifjfeminds him of such terrestrial comforts as'are sure to be acceptable after exercise in the pure air q|||the mountains. Another turn and it again disappears, and the excited traveller next finds him- self on the level rock of the Pine Orchard, and ap- proaching the hotel from the rear. A moment more and he is on the edge of the precipice in front of the noble building. At first glance he would be led to believe, with Leather Stocking, that creation was all before him, and he is forced to admit that hisv wildest anticipations are more than realized. The view from Table Rock has been compared, by those who have seen both, to that from the summit of Vesuvius over the bay of Naples and the adjacent coasts. In features they are unlike ; but in cha- racter the same. From this lofty eminence all inequalities of surface are overlooked. A seemingly endless succession of woods and waters — farms and villages, towns and cities, are spread out as upon a boundless map. Far beyond rise the Taghkanick Mountains, and still larlfier the highlands of Con- necticut and Massachusetts. A litllc to the left, and 2-1 at a still greater distance, the Green Alountains ol Vermont stretch away to the north, and their bine summits and the blue sky mingle and melt together. The beautiful Hudson, studded with islands, appear- narrowedin distance — vvith steamboats almost con- stantly in sight ; while vessels of every description, j spreading; their white canvass to the breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loitering in the calm. These may Be traced to the distance of nearly seventy miles with the naked eye ; and again at times all below is enveloped in dark cloud and . rolling mist, which, driven about by the wind, is con- ' tinually assuming new, wild, and fantastic forms. — The whole produces an effect on the beholder une- qualled by that of any other scene %i this countiy. The gazer turns from the sight, compSled to ac- knowledge that all is beautiful and all is new. Visit- ; ers who have here assembled from variousftolives all \ depart satisfied and delighted. The student, pale ( and exhausted with study and continemeni, has for I g while forsaken his books, and found new vigour ih the " medicinal freshness" of the mountsin air. — The idler and the invalid have Ijeen well rewarded for their toils ; the one by the accession of health jond strength, the brightened eye and quickened • pulse, and the other by obtaini ng excitement, exercise, and pleasure in exchange for the irksome monotony of the world below. All are for a while freed from the idle ceremonials of life, and permitted to hold unrestrained converse with Nature and her works. From the Pine Orchard a ride or walk of miles ^ brings you to the Cauterskill Falls. — Here the outlet of two inconsiderable lakes, leaps down a perpendicular fall of 180 feet — then glides away through achan ; nel it has worn in the rock to a second fall of Si feet. Below this it is lost in the dark ravine throuf' I'ASSAGi; IP THE ntlDSOS. which it finds its way to the valley of the Catskill. The waterfall bold as it is, forms, however, but one of the many interesting features of this scene. Standing on the edge of the tirst fall you look down into a dreary chasm whose steep sides, covered with the dark ivy and the thick foliage of summer, seem like a green bed prepared for the reception of the waters. Making a circuit from this spot, and de- scending about midway of the first fall, you enter a footpath which conducts into an immense natural ampitheatre behind the waterfall. The effect, of this seen, is imposing beyond description. F.-irover your head projects a smooth surface of rock forming a magnificent ceiling to this amphitheatre. In front is the ever-falling water, and beyond the wild moun- tain dell with the clear blue sky above il : the seen* can only be appreciated on IIr- spot. The tourist should bear in mind that the falls must be seen from below to produce the best effect, and that the view from the Pine Orchard is much finer from 3 o'clock P. M. till sunset than in the middle of the day. Coaches leave the Mountain every morning at*? o'clock, and arrive in time to take the boat that leaves Albany at 7 o'clock for New-Yoik. They also leave in the afternoon, and arrive in tiuie Ibr the day boat for .Albany, and the night boat fdl New-York. * Hudson. (E. S.) This is quite a lai^e and im- portant city, the only incorporated town between New-York and Albany. It is situated on an ele- vated plain. The bank rises from the river, in the form of an abrupt bluff, from 50 to 60 fee! in hei4;ht. It has great advantages of water-power in 'he % vicinity. , The city of Hudson ranks as the third in manufacturing importance in the state. This»'!s the landing place for those who wish to visit Lebanon Springs at the Shaker Setilement, for a C 26 THE TOURIST. iiolice' of which, see page 58. Stages leave Bryan's Hotel for the Springs, daily, at half past 7 in the morning, and in the afternoon on tlic arrival of the morning boats from New- York. 'J'lie Clavcrack Falls are 9 miles from Hudson. Mo stages run regularly to the Falls, but they can be procured, at any time, at Bryan's Hotel. The water falls 150 feet without interruption, except by a small pointof rock whichjuts out from the main crag. CotiiMBrAViLLF.,(E. S.) four miles above Hudson, is in sight from the river, about a quarter of a mile from its bank. It is situated on Kinderhook Creek, which empties into the river. There are two cotton factories at the village, owned by Messrs. Wild and Jenkins. The scenery in the vicinity is of a wild %nd romantic character. Athens, (W. S.) opposite Hudson, is a large village, located on plains gently'sloping towards the river. A large number of sloops sail from this place. Numerous mansions of private gentlemen adorn this pleasant village. — A canal has been cut tTirough a low marshy island in the river, between this place and Hudson, through which a horse ferry- boat plies regularly every hour. Four Mile Piiiiit, (W. S.) is a low point of land, 41 miles above Athens. *Cox5ACKiE (W. S.) This is a small village not remarkable for any thing except a ship-yard, and a hay-press. Many sloops and canal boats are built here, and two or three steamboats have been con- structed in this ship-yard. Small ships occasionally haul up here to repair. ♦ Kinderhook (E. S.) contains about 30 houses, a few stores, a post-olhce, church, &c. Nearly op- posite Kinderhook is a light-house, erected in 1829, under the direction of Samuel Swartwout, collector of the port of New-York. Two miles above, on the PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 east side, is another, which was erected at.the.same time. New-BaltimoUe; (W. S.) There is a yellow store-house on the dock, and a sloop sails once a week. CoEYMANs. (W. S.) Red store house on the dock. Castleton, (E. S.) 8 miles from Albany — brick store on one dock, white luiy-press on the other. J'Ae Overslavgh, three miles beloW Albany, is a place where the channel is very shoal and narrow, and occasionally tlie steamboats are obliged to " lay-to" for an hour or two, until the tide rises. An immense sum has been expended for the im- provement of the channel ; but it soon tills up again. Albany is in sight from this point. Greenbosii is nearly opposite Albany. *A steam ferry boat plies between the two places. AiBANV — the capital of the State. " The fine points of Albany are, that being built partly on high ground, several of the public buildings, and many of the best private dwellings, are on a commanding eminence. This gives a remarkably favourable ap- pearance to the city when approached on the river, as the eye takes in not only the long line of river craft and substantial piers and wharves, but also an eictended back ground of lofty edifices, in which the Capitol and several churches are conspicuous. This elevation of course affords to the inhabitants of the upper part of the town, a most enchanting prospect ot several miles both up and down the river. " There appears to be a good deal of public spirit here ; for they have erected a city academy, a large and ponderous looking edifice, of dark freestone, which cost, I was informed, nearly ^590,000, and are now building a City Hall, which is to cost *80,000 more. There'was also shown to me, fhfe plan of a 28 private building now goir^ up on the cciriicr Slale and Market streets, which is to be built nearly a semi-elliptical form, and which, when coi pleted, will, I venture to say, be onp of the n». •• magnificent pnVate buildines in the Union. Whal is surprising about it is, that the city is indebted to the rare enterprise of a single firm, for v\ hat in almost any other place the courage of a joint-slock company would have been hardly adequate. " Three out.pf the five banks here are built' marble, or bav6 marble fronts, which, as they stan is the same thing for effect. I was informed by au intellitient gentleman of a plan that had beep sug- fested for the purchase by the State and Commercial anks of the property between the Mechanics' and the Canal bank, and building two new banking- •liouses for their own occupation. If this should tro into operation, the improvement both in elegaii' ^hd convenience would be incalculable, and lii 0 part of Albany would be exceedingly beautiful." Stages are in wailing, ready to convey passen- gers to any point of the compass. Immediately after the arrival of the steamboats, the reiterated cries "f " Pass(.'ngej« for the spi ings," " Passengers for the West," &c. as^^ the ears of the traveller ■ I'roin all directions, vo^Bmated by the runnere sen ■• on board by the different proprietors of stages. The public houscl> in Albany are equal to any in the State ; and the IrayelUr may rely upon being well acconnnodated at any of the houses mentiaried in the first pages of this work. There are no>v no packet- 0 boats on the canal between Albany and Sclienectady. Two boats of this description were employed on this mute in t827 ; but did not succeed, in consequence ol' the detention at the locks, no less than twenty-seven in number. , The distance is 28J miles. By the turnpike it is only 15 miles, which is accomplisbi (ji between two and three hours, whifc on the car PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 29 the passage occupies from twelve to fourteen liours. Persons wisliing to take the packet-boats, (which leave Schenectady for the West at 2 and 7 P. M. and at midnight), take coaches at Albany on the arrival- of the 7 o'clock boat from New- York and arrive at Schenectady for the 12 o'clock night boat ; and on the arrival of the 5 o'clock boats from New-York, and arrive at Schenectady for the 2 o'clock packet, or at 3 o'clock, P. M. and arrive for the 7 o'clock packet. * For Teoy, 6 miles north of Albany, stages leave every hour, and there are three small steam- boats, viz. James Fairlie, Alitlilda, and Caroline, which leave on the arrival of every boat from New- York,, and at intemicdiate hours. Stages leave daily for JiaUston and Saratoga Springs, at 6 and 9 o'clock, a. m. For Iftica, Rochester, and Buffalo dailyiat 9 a. m. and 3 and II p. m. • For WhitehaU daily at 9 o'clock a. m., and on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings at 4 o'clock, to meet the steamboat on Luke Ckamplain, which runs to St. John's, where passengers take stages for Mpntreal, distant about thirty miles. For Boston (through in two days)', via Lebanon •^rings, Filtsficld, Northftmptmi, and Worcester, daily, except on Sunday, at 2 o'clock a. m. For PRovmENcE (through in two days), via West-field, Miiiison, and Slockhridgc, daily, except on Sunday, at 2 o'clock, a. m. For IIaktford (through in one day), via- SheMeld and Norfolk, daily, except on Sunday, at I o'clock,^ A. M. J For Nbw-H AvEN (through in a day and a half ), jrla Litchfield, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'cwk, p. M. - For Lebanon Sprinos, via Nassau Village, every morning at 9 o'clock. C 2 30 I'WL Toi-ms'r. For MoNTREAi. (during; the winter), every morn- ing at 2 o'clock, — througli in tliree days. Principal buildings in JUbairy. The Capitol or SlateHouse, at the head of State-Street (a broad and 'handsome] J -built avenue, ascending a rather steep acclivity), is located in a cnninianding situation. The Acadf^my, a few rods norlli of the Capitol, is a 'fine, substantial building. Its architecture has been mui'h admired. The Lyceum of the Albany Institute occupies o part of this edifice. The City Hall in Eagle-Street IS a veiy fine structure. State House, in State-Street, is a building of antique api earance ; but not other- wise reinarfeable. It is occupied by the secretary of state, chancellor, register, &c. The Bank of Albany, Caniil Bank, and Mechanic; and Farmers' Bank, stand in juxta position at the fc; ofState-Street. The New-York .Stale Bank stand? i the centre of State-Street. The Comme rcial Ban; lis at ibe loot of Slale-Slreet, on the south side. • The New Building, not yet completfd, at the comer of State and North Market-Streets, probabb displays the best style of architecture in the cit; The upper part will be occupied by'the Musciw,, and the basement story by the Posi-Offiie. The Law Buildings, at the corner ci Beaver and South Market-Streets, constitute one of the ornaments to the city. The South Dutrh (JInirch, enclosed in well-arranged grounds, exlrmling from Beaver to Hudson-Street, exhibits at each end a lofty portico supported by six large column- "f fiecstcpc. The Ai.RASY 'I'heatke build- ing, scanti^ sbppliid willi ::arnenl? ilWront. The interior is c(ii:ii; c«.u u.-, and ■ It is perhaps one of the best second-rale Im the country, is welI*conducted, ;infl i!s r , possesses a_^r share of dramai " WESTERN ROUTE FROM AEBANY. The traveller leaves Albany, and after riding 15 miles over a sandy road, and through a barren coun- try, with nothing to attract or interest the eye, he findshimseK in the ancient and sombre city ol .S'ffteftcc- tady. This is the oldest cityfin the State. It vpas a place of some considerable business, principally forwarding, a few years since,, when goods were carried across the turnpike to the balleaux on the Mohawk River ; but since the canal has been in operation, the business of Schenectady has been nearly annihilated, as it passes immediately on to Albany. 'I'he Moharek and Hudson Railroad is "being lilt" between this city and Albany ; it will pro- ' ly be finished in 183-3. The first ground was mken on the 29th of July. Theqp is a veiy fine Hotel at Schenectady, kept by H. Davis. ■ ' Union College occupies a very eligible situation, short distance nortb-east of the city. Dr. Nolt jiresident of this iiiititution. The traveller now resumes bis tour upon the great Western Canal, the most stupendous chain of artificial navigation in Ibis OT any other country. In passing for lium lreds of miles through rich and fertile tracts, anit over obsjacles which presented almost impassable barriers'ito the great work of internal improvement ••ii bo'dl3' planned and perseveringly completed by ihe inresiiiht, wisdom, and indefatiga- ble exertions of Clinton .ind his compeers, the re- fleotton will inevitably suggest itself, that the state of Aew-Yorl' Ins ample reason to indulge a feelil)^ of pride in cotitaHlfplatint; the beneficent results of 4he triuniphanti(Tm)ours of these who planned and eompletetf lliis monument to her pubhc spirit and onterprije. • ♦ 32 THE TODKIST. CANAL ROUTE. The several places and distances, as Ihey occur on the canal route Ironr Albany to Buffalo, are as follows : lace. DISTANCE FROM p. o >^ lesler. _2 o cz TO u •o CS « 0 no 270 363 7 103 263 356 2 9 101 261 354 Schenectady . . . . 21 30 80 240 333. 46 64 224 317 Schoharie Creek . . . 7 53 57 217 310 Caughnawaga . . . . 4 57 53 213 306 Sprake's Basin . . 9 66 44 204 297 Canajoharie . . . . 3 69 41 201 294 Bowman's Creek . . . 3 72 38 198 291 88 22 182 275 95 15 175 368 100 10 170 263 110 0 160 253' Whitesboiough . . 4 114- 4" a56 249 . . 3 117 7 153 246 . ■. 8 125 15 145 238 132 22 138 231 133 38 132 225 Oneida Creek . . . . 3 141 31 129 222 146 36 124 217 New-Boston . . . . 4 15% 40 120 213 Chitteningo . . • . 4 m- 44 116 209 163. 52 108 201 » l UOM Al.BATSV. 3 o u a cheS: ffalo. o < 5 X » Orviilf ■s 1G5 55 105 • 198 6 171 61 99 193 2 173 63 97 190 G 179 69 91 184 Canton . . -. . . 6 185 75 85 178 6 191 81 79 173 Weed's Basin . . • 6 197 87 73 166 3 200 90 70 163 Monlezunfa (Lakepoit) G 206 96 64 157 11 217 107 53 146 ') 226 116 44 137 7 233 123 37 130 8 241 131 29 122 FuHom's Basin . . 13 254 144 16 109 6 260 150 10 103 10 270 160 0 93 Ogden 13 282 J 72 13 81 Adams' Basin . . . 3 385 175 15 78 290 1^ 20 73 Holley 5 295 185 4^25 68 10 303 195 35 58 Po?t»ille .... 4 309 199 39 54 Oak Orchard . . . . 5 314 204 44 49 . 7 321 all 53 i2 iS 333 63 *) 340 230 76 S3 Toi&wanda . . . . 12 352 842 83 11 Black Rock . . . . 8 3fi0 250 90 3 Hiiffa!o 3 3(;3 253 93 0 34 THE TOURIST. ' The Canal Packet Boat, by which J.he traveller to the west continues his journey from Schenectady, is about 80 feet in length, and 14 wide. A cabin in the forward part of the boat is fitted for ladies, with twelve births, in a similar style to those of the steamboats on the Hudson. The dining cabin is about 30 feet in length. The gentlemen's births are not stationary, but are hung up in the dining cabin at bedtime, by means of hooks fitted for the purpose. Back of the dining cabin is a recess deck, about 7 or 8 feet in length, which is the entrance to the boat. In (lie rear of this deck is the kitchen and sleeping cabin for the hands. • After leaving Schenectady, the boat passes through the town of Rotterdam, a most delightful tract of country, to the first lock, which will prove an inte- resting sight to those unacquainted with the science of canal navigation. The lower gates are opened, the boat runs in, the gates are closed, and the upper flood gates opened. As an equilibrium takes place between the high water above the lock and that in the lock, the boat rises gradually about 8 feet, to the level of the water above. 1 he acclivity be- ing thus surmounted, the boat moves on uninter- rupted. The distance from Schenectady to Uticti is 80 miles, and the passage is performed in from 20 to 23 hours. The boats are drawn by three horses ahead of each other. The horses are changed about every 10 miles. After proceeding 15 miles, the tourist has a view of the village of Amsterdam, on the opposite side of the Mohawk River. A very fine bridge crosses the river at this place. A few miles farther is seen the stone house formerly the residence of Sir William Johnson. Schoharie Greek. The Canal crosses this creek by means of a guard lock on each side, the gates of WESTEEN KOtJTE PEOM ALBANY. 35 which are closed, when the water is higher in the creek than the level of the canal, in order to pre- vent it from rushing into the Canal and tearing away the embankments. There is a narrow bridge which the horses walk over, and the boat is taken across in the following ingenious manner. On each side of the creek there is a horizontal wheel, around which a rope is drawn, and the ends fastened toge- ther ; there is a horizontal shaft (projecting from the upright shaft of one of the wheels), to which a horse is attached. When a boat arrives at the creek it is fastened to this rope, the horse at the wheel is started, and the boat drawn directly across into the opposite lock. The ruins of Fort Hunter are to be seen near the mouth of the creek. The Indian Church called QueenAnne's Chapel is near this point. Jinthofiy^s JVose, on the south side of the Canal, is one of the most prominent mountains on the whole line of the Canal. Canajoharie, 38 miles from Schenectady. ' The canal runs through the northern section of this vil- lage, and a bridge crosses the river to Palatine. Fort Plain village is 3 miles above Canajo- harie. A large creek empties into the Mohawk at this place. The canal crosses the creek by means of a pair of guard locks. Little Falls, 22 miles from Utica. These are rather rapids than falls. On each side the mountains are very high, leaving but a narrow space for the river, canal, and road to pass through. For about 2 miles the canal is formed by throwing up a wall into the river from 20 to 30 feet high, then excava- ting into the mountain and filling it up. This was one of the most difficult and expensive parts of the canal, as it was necessary to blast the rock with gunpowder, to form the bed of the canal, for nearly the whole distance. A beautiful marble iilE TolBIS'i . aqueduct cmsics tXie river at lliis "place, and Icaiis into a basin opposile, w here boats discharge and re- ceive lading. There is a bridge just above the aqueduct, trom which you have a tine view of the aqueduct, and (he slab-on which is engraved tne names of the canal commissioners, the builders, Sic. There are a number of fine buildings in the village on the opposile side of the river, princi- pally of stone. Passengers that are disposed to f)edestriani3m, generally leave the boat at the second ock, and walk until they reach the last. They are si.x in number, liy which tlie boat is so much de- tained, that a person may walk quite leisurely through the most wild and romantic scenerj' that can easily be' imagined. A stage runs from this place to Trenton Falls every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at half past C, a. m., distance 24 miles. After leayin"; Little Falls, you pass through a most deliglitful plain, called Germun Flatts, for 7 miles,. • }u!n the village of f; Herkimer is seen on the opposite side of the , i\ er. There is an island in the river at this place from which a bridge leads to either shore. Pro- ceeding 5 miles farther, tlie canal passes through the village of Frankfort. Thence the traveller pursues his journey 10 miles, and finds himself in the beau- tiful and flourishing village of Utica'. Utica is located on the site of old Fort Schuyler, on the south bank of the Mohawk River, 95 miles west of Albany. A charter was granted to this village in 1798, since which time its population has increased very rapidly. In 1813 it contained 1700 inhabitants ; and now, by the census of July, it con- tains S"ji4 souls, — 4155 males, and 3966 females. Among the public ins'-tutions are tlie following : the Oneida Institute of Science and Industry, which , ^VESi'EE^^ kovte ruoji albakv. iias a large farm attached to the Institution, on which each student labours fronl 3 to 4hours each day — the Classical Academy, a Library, the Lyceum, two Banks, and nine Churches. Very pleasant excur- sions are frefluently made from this place to Whites- borough, York Mills, Clinton Village (containing Hamilton College), Rome, and to the wild, pictu- resijue, and romantic Trenton Falls. Stages leave Utica every morning at 5 o'clock for Auburn, Ro- chester, and Buffalo ; they also leave in all direc- tions on the arrival of the packet boats from the east and west : stages leave for Trenton Falls i times a day during the summer months ; packets leave for Schenectady every morning. Trenton Falls constitute an object of curi- osity and admiration, to which the traveller is irresist- ibly attracted. It does not comport with the design of this work to enter into a detailed description of these falls ; merely to call attention to them fulfils our design. They are on the West Canada Creek, a large stream, which empties into the Mohawk, and are about 24 miles above its mouth. They consist of several chutes, commencing near the Black River Road, and terminating at Conrad's Mills, a distance of more than two miles. The Upper Fall is 18 or 20 feet, but the previous descent of the water in the two miles above is supposed to be 60 feet. The water at this first fall is received into a large basin, and winds its way downward through a precipitous ravine 100 feet in depth, and on the summits of the banks 300 feet across. This ravine presents some of the most romantic peculiarities. In many places the topmost crags overhang the stream, and some hardy trees, rooted in the crevices of the rock, throw their branches athwart the aby.s3. There are six distinct falls ; the one we have already noticed, which is above the bridge on the Black 38 THE TOCBIST. lliver Road. Tlie next consists of two pitches, and is known as " the Cascades," where the water is compressed into a very narrow space, and falls 18 feet. At the Mill-dam Falls, next in succession, the descent is 14 feet. A sliort distance below are the High Falls, consisting of three pitches, the first of which is 48 feet, the second 11 feet, and tlie third 37 feet ; the three, including the intervening slopes and pitches, constituting a descent of 109 feet. The fifth is called Sherman's Falls, about 70 rods below the High Falls, and the descent is about 35 feet. The last fall is at Conrad's Mills, and is six feet. The whole descent from the top of the upper fall to the foot of that at Conrad's Mills is 387 feet. When the water is high, many of the distinct pitches are lost in the rushing cataract ; and it is only when the stream is low that each fall can be separately seen. A stairway is formed at the bottom of the ravine, l/y means of which a view is obtained of Sherman's tails, and whence the visiter passes up within the ravine, under overarching rocks, to the foot of the high fall. The whole forms a stupendous scene ; and those feelings of awe which the wilder works of Nature impress upon the mind are powerfully ex- cited. Organic remains have hitherto been found in abundance in the ravine, and Mr. Sherman (at whose house accommodations are ailbrded to vi- siters) has a cabinet of these remains, which are ex- hibited to the curious. The following are the principal Hotels in Utica : the Canal Coffee House, kept by Mr. Shepherd, late of the United States Hotel, is at the Packet Boat landing — the National Hotel, 3 doors north of the Canal, by J. Welles, late of the Canal Coffee House — .Mr. Bagg's Hotel, corner of Maiti and Genesee Streets : United States Hotel ; Oneida 'I'emperanct WESTERN HOCTE PROM ALBANY. 39 House, and Clinton House, are all very fine esta- blishments. The Packkt Boats leave Utica every day at 2 o'clock, p. M., for Rochester. The following is an extract from the advertisement of the Proprietors. " This line is intersected by a line of Packets run- ning between Syrarnsc and Osmcgo. Passengers travelling between Utica and Oswego will meet with no delay in passing from one line to the other at Syracuse, and will find this route both interesting and expeditious. A boat for passengers will ply between Geneva and Montezuma, where this line is also intersected by the steamboat on Cayuga Lake." The boat passes through the following vil- lages on the passage t Rochester : — Whiteshormgh, Rome, New-Londm, Canostota, New-Boston, Chit- tenango, Manlius, Syracuse, Canton, Jordan, Mon- tezuma, Clyde, Lyons, Newark, Palmyra, and arrives at Rochester in time for the morning boat for Buffalo. There is nothing of much interest on the Canal, for the first sixty miles west of Utica. It is a perfectly level and marshy country, without a lock in the whole distance ; therefore the general course is to take (he stage in the morning and arrive at Syracuse in the evening, lodge at Mr. Comstock's " Syracuse hotel, and kept in the first style), and be ready to take the Packet, as it passes, about 5 o'clock in the morning. Syracuse is the most important place between Utica and Rochester, and contains about four hun- dred buildinjjs ; among which are a church, two very extensive Hotels, one on each side of the Canal, which is lined with lofly warehouses, giving it the appearance of New-York in miniature. The importance of this flourishing village is principally owing to the immense quantity of salt produced extensive well-furnished in the vicinity. Great quantities are manutacturea from the vast number of sprins;s by which the whole body of the soil is impregnated. — The salt is manufactured by solar evaporation. The water is brought in logs from the villag;e of Salina, about one mile distant, and emptied into the vats, which occupy nearly 300 acres. The vats are all covered with light roofs, which are moveable at pleasure, to admit the rays of the sun upon the water, or to prevent the rain from mingling with it. The salt is removed from the vats twice or three times in the course of the summer. ■ Salina is a mile and a half north of Syracuse. The (lkI salt spring was discovered at this place by the Indians, from the circumstance of its being visited by deer and other animals. The Oswego Canal commences at this place, the surplus water of which is used for the purpose of forcing (by a powerful liydraulain) the salt water 85 feet up the hill into a large reservoir. It is forced up at the rate of 300 gallons per minute, whence it is con- veyed by logs to the factories in the neighbourhood, which amount to 175 within a circuit of 7 miles. The springs and works all belong to the State, to which the manufacturers pay imposts of 63 cents per barrel of 5 bushels, which are applied, according to the Constitution of the State, towards discharg- ing the Canal debt. The Omego Canal extends from Onondaga lake to lake Ontario, at Oswego. It includes 20 miles of the Oswego river. The whole distance is 38 miles. Geddes is a small village, 2 miles west of Syra- cuse. A number of valuable salt springs have been discovered at this place very recently. The ma- nufacturing establishments are within a few rods of the canal- After pursuing its course 7 miles farther^ WESTERN BOl'TE FROM AlBANY. 41 the canal crosses Nine Mile Creek, by means of an aqueduct with two arches, under which the cteek flows. Weed's Basin, 15 miles from Syracuse, contains about 60 houses. AuBUBN is 7 miles south, for which place stages leave daily. The Slate Prison is located at Auburn, on the banks of the Owasco creek. The machinery of the prison is propelled by the water from this creek. Montezuma is a flourishing village. There is a salt manufacturing establishment one mile north of it, to which a side-cut frotp the canal aCFords means of communication. Passengers intending to visit Ithaca Falls land here. In relation to lliose inte- resting falls, the following is an extract from a ma- nuscript work, called " The Guide to the Lakes." Ithaca Falls {Tompkins emmly). .So much has been said of the Falls of Trenton, that it is time something should be said of the falls at Ithaca, situ- ated at the. head of Cayuga lake. The high fall of Fall liivcr is the first which strikes Ihe eye on liditig from the steamboat landing to the village. Its height is 116 feet, and its breadth Is proportionate. Two immense piles of rocks enclose the stream, and on the right-hand, high up the bank, a mill race is seen winding around a point of the bank, sus- pended in mid-air, and now and then an adven- turous visiter carefully treading his way along the dizzy path. This race-way was built in an cxtraor- dinaiy manner : a person let himself down from a tree standing on a high point ab(jve, and swinging over the giddy steep, he there dug out pl.aces in the rock ih which to fasten the prini-ipal supporters of the race. The view from this point is grand and impressive. A short distance from this, up the rocky 1)6(1 of the creek, the visiter proceeds until his steps 42 THE TOl/Klsr. are arrested by another splendid fall ; the bank pt» senting the most curious forms, the most surprising ar rangement of strata, and crowned with all tne glories of forest vegetation. The fall is beautiful ; it is not so high as the first, but it is more wild ; the water pours over in large sheets, commencing as it were from the topmost ledge, and then spreads out wildly and boldly below. The basin into which the water falls is also very picturesque. Above this, at about thirty yards distance, is another, very much of the character of the falls at Trenton, where points of the lock intervene and separate the principal chutes. The fall of the next sheet of water is diagonal ; it runs as it were trom right to left across the rock, and then suddenly contracts and falls into a narrow chasm, from whence it emerges in a more subdued tone and glides away. Beyond this is still another, being the uppermost of all ; the bank here is bar- ren, and steeper than below, and the volume of water pours down almost in one sheet. It is one of the highest of them all, and is very imposing in its appearance. The five falls we have thus partially described have a descent of 438 feet in the short space of one mile ! and afford an unbounded variety of the wild and wonderful, as well as of the beautiful. The falls upon the CascadiUa are not less fine, though upon a smaller scale. The one is in an appa- rent chasm of rock, and falls nearly perpendicular. The other fall which we shall notice on this creek is a bolder and more striking one ; it is a handsome sheet of water, and bursts over the ledge of rocks with great force. Beyond this are others equally attractive. The Six Mile Creek is also an object of curiosity ; after yon pass up a short distance, the most beautiful scenery awaits you. Fall after fall (though the walking was formerly less practicable to them than WESTERN BOUTK FEOM ALBANY. 4 10 the others) rewards you for the search, and na- ture seenns to breathe nothing but the breath of wa- ters and incense of groves. The Buttermilk Creek is distant a short ride of about a mile from the vil- lage. It is diversified with the most singular ap- pearances, and is, if possible, more wild ana gloomy than the others. At a distance of eight miles from Ithaca there is a landing called (Joodwin's Point, where the steamboat from Cayuga bridge stops regularly twice a day. At this place a stream called the 'I'aghcanic empties itself Upon this stream there is a fall of 238 feet perpendicular. Words cannot describe the magnificence of the ravine into which it tails, nor the etfect which it produces on the mind. This is a favourite resort wiih the lovers of the pictu- resque ; and pic-nic parties are often made up to visit the falls of Taghcanic/ , A superb hotel, called the Clinton i/m/sc, has beeii opened to the public at Ithaca, and thf comlbrts of private parlours, priva e tables, or an excellent table " d'hote," are offered at the low rale of $2 to $2,50 per week. The Lake scenery is itself worthy of all praise ; but our object is merely to point out the character of the falls, and of the scenery about them. One mile from Montezuma the canal enters the Montezuma raaish, 3 miles in extent, which is a most _ solitary, desolate, and dreary swamp. After leaving the marsh and travelling 8 miles, the travel- ler passes the flourishing v illage of Clyde, which contains a glass-blpwing»establish- ment. Palmyra is a handsome business-looking village in Wayne county. It is built on the southern bank of the canal. There are a number of factories and mills in the vicinity situated on Mud Creek, virhich 44 THE TOURIST. runs eastward about 40 rods from the main street. Passengers and goods destined for Caiiandaigua land at this place. Follom's Basin, 13 miles from Palmyra. The distance by canal to Rochester is 16 miles, and by land only 7 1-2 ; in consequence of which passen- gers frequently take stages from this place ; by doing this, however, the view of the Great Einhankmeiit isjlost. The embankment commences about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and extends 2 miles, at an elevation of about 70 feet, from which there is a fine prospect of the surrounding country. PiTTSFORD, containing about 90 buildings, is 2 miles farther. After proceeding 10 miles from Pitts- ford, the boat arrives at the large and prosperous village of Rochester, the most extensive, populous, and im- portant place i[i the western country. It has been termed the " Western New- York." The Gemsii river passes through the village, aud the Griiat Fall.'-, 97 feet in height, are alinut 80 rods below. From the centre of these falls the celebrated &im Patch, of immortal memoiy, made his "last jump," in the autumn of 1829. He precipitated himself from a scaftbld erected 20 feet above Table Rock, making an elevation of 125 feet. An immense number of per- sons had collected from many miles distant, to wit- ness this last and, as it proved, fatal leap. His body was not found unliflhe ensuing spring. In 1812 Rochester was a wilderness ; and in the short space of 18 years its growth has been unpiccedented, as will he perceived by a slight glance at its preserjt statistics. It contains 2000 buildings, and a popula- tion of about 13,000. In the south part of the vil- lage the canal runs parallel wilh (be eastern bank of the river for half a mile, and at but u short dis- tance. At the centre of the village it crosses the WESTERN JtOUTE FBOM ALBANY. 4 liver by a splendid aqueduct, 804 feet long, with 11 arches of from 26 to 50 feet chord, elevated 14 feet from the surface of the river. It is constructed of red freestone, and cost over $80,000. The height of the canal at Rochester is SOI feet above the tide waters of the Hudson, and 64 feet below Lake Erie. There are two bridges across the riVer. The principal hotels are, the Eagle Tavern, Rochester House, Mansion House, Jlrcaaaiflouse, and Clinton House. The principal public buildings are, the Court-house, Jail, Globe Buildings, 11 churches, and 2 banks, viz. Bank of Rochesti r and Bank of Munro. In the vicinity of the village there are ele- ven flouring mills, with 53 run of stones, capable of grinding 12,000 bushels of wheat every 24 hours. The Arcade was erected in 1829. It is 100 feet front by 135 deep, and 4 stories high, exclusive of the attic and basement. There are 6 stores in front, besides a large hall, whii h leads to the Arcade, where the Atheneuin, Posl-Office, Arcade-House, and a variety of offices are situated. An Observa- tory, in the form of a Chinese pagoda, is erected on the top, from which the visiter may obtain a magnificent view of the country. Stages leave Rochester, daily, for Albany, via Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Onondaga, Utica, Little Falls, and Schenectady, distance 237 miles. They also leave daily for BufiFalo, via Lcvviston and Niagara Falls, passing over the ridge road, distance 104 miles ; and via Caledonia, Leroy, and Batavia for Buffalo, distance 7" miles. Packet Boats leave Rochester every morning for Buffalo and Albany. After leaving Rochester in the boat for Buffalo, and passing a number of small places, the traveller arrives at the thriving village of Oak Orchard, 44 miles from Rochester. It is located on the bank of a creek of the same name. 46 THE TOrKIST. The largest arch on the whole line of canal is at this place, over which the canal crosses the creek. Travellers, wishing to sec this " work of man," must leave the boat a snort time before reaching it, as no stop is made, and walk rapidly forward in order to gain time ; and they will be taken on board at the village, when the boat passes. There is a passage to the bottom of the arch by means of circular steps, and a path underrSsath, which leads to the village. 19 miles farther is the flourishing village of LocKPORT. It is situated on the mountain ridge ; and there are here 5 locks for ascending and 5 for descending by the canal, situated a few yards below the viUage. These locks are constructed in the most permanent manner, and the science and solidity displayed by them has often been spoken of with admiration. There are stone steps between the rows of locks, guarded on each side with iron rail- ings. This is the most stupendous work on the whole route. In 1821 there were but two bouses at this place ; now, there are nearly 400. Passengers, who intend visiting the Niagara Falls, frequently take stage here, and proceed to Manchester (the American Fall), 23 miles distant, or to Lewiston, which is 7 miles below tlie Falls, and visit Man- chester afterward. After passing Lockport 7 miles, the boat arrives at Tonnewanta Creek, which forms the canal for 12 miles, to its mouth. Hence the canal is carried along the shore of the Niagara river for 8 miles to the village of Black Rock, which is on the west bank of the river, and is a place of considerable size. The former activity of this village has recently much diminished, as Rochester has oveigrown it, and attracted most of the business once transacted here. The private mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war (who resides here), makes quite a WESTERN KOOTE FBOM AhDAKS. 47 splendid appearance from the water. From Black Itock the canal runs along the bank of the river, 3 miles, to Buffalo. Buffalo is a beautiful, flourishing village, at the outlet of Lake Erie, possessing the twofold advan- tages of a lake and canal navigation. The time is not far distant when it will rank as one of the prin- cipal places in the state. Its population is not pre- cisely known (a census is now being taken), but is estimated at nearly 7000. There are about 1000 buildings. The Cfouri-house in the highest part of Main-street and the Presbyterian Cliurch, in the same street, are very Ijeautiful buildings. There are a number of fine Hotels : among which is the Eagle Tavern, kept by Mr. Rathbun. This house ranks among the best in the Union. At the Farmers' Inn, in street, there is a vciy good Livery Stable, kept by Mr. John Mahon, who furnishes coaches for Lewiston, the Falls, &c., " at short notice." Stages leave Buffalo every morning for Utica, via Canandaigua, through in 3 days, stopping nights ; — and every evening, through in 2 days, going day and night. — Eveiy day for Kochester. — Every morning, at 6 o'clock, for Niagara Falls (on the Ame- rican side), passing through the villages of Black Kock and Tonnewanta, distance 23 miles. After remaining at the Falls 2 or 3 hours, this Stage pro- ceeds to Four Niagara, riasfiiig through Lewiston. — Every morning, at ii o'clock, for Niagara Falls, on the Canada side, passing through Black Rock, crosses the river to Waterloo, passes over the Chip- pewa battle ground, through Chippewa village to Niagara Falls ; distance 22 miles. Stages leave Niagara for Queenston and Fort George daily, at 3 P. M. , Stka.mboats leave Buflalo eveiy morning, at 8 o'clock, for rhippewa village (passmg round (5rand 48 THE TOLlilSr. Island), and reach there about noon. Stages a.: in readiness at this place to convey passengers to the Falls. The Boats return to'Bulfalo at 7 in the eve- ning. — Every other day (or Detroit, via Erie, Grand River, Cleaveland, and Sandusky ; distance 305 miles. — Every day for Erie (Penn.), via Dunkirk and Portland. After leaving Buffalo in the stage, and passing the village of Black Rock, the Niagara river is crossed by a horscboat, and the traveller arrives at the small village of Waterloo on the Canada side ; near which are the ruins of the memorable Fort Erie. This place is celebrated as the theatre of several severe battles during the last war. After passing 15 miles farther, over a sandy, though very good, road, the tourist arrives at Chippewa battle ground. The^ battle of Chippewa, pmbably one of the most brilliant actions ret orded in the annals of war, was fought on the 5th of July, 1814. One mile north of the battle ground, the traveller notices a small clus- ter of buildings : this is the village of Chippewa. There are two or three mills in the vicinity, situate on Chippewa Creek, which runs through the vil- lage. Lundy's Lane is one mile farther north. A sanguinary battle was fought here on the 25th of July, 1814. Burning Spring is half a mile north of Lundy's Lane. The spring is«enclosed by a small building. A b irrel is placed over the spring, which has a cover with a tube in it, through which the gas (sul- phuretted hy trogen) escapes : when a light is ap- plied, it ignites and burns brilliantly. The keeper of the spring requires a small fee from visiters. Haifa mile north of this spring are the celebrated Niagara Falls. These Falls are situated below Cfrand Island, on the Niagara River, about 20 miles from Lake Erie, and 14 miles from Lake Ontario. 49 This river unites the waters of these two lakes, and is froili li to 6 miles in width. Above the Falls the banks are from 4 to 100 feet in height, and, imme- diately below, not less than 300. They gradually diminish in height until they reach the shores of Lake Ontario. The river at the Falls is about one mile in width ; the cataract pours over a concave summit, and falls (on the American side) almost perpendicularly 164 feel. The horse-shoe fall (on the Canada side) descends, in a curved form, pro- jecting about 50 feet from its base, to the distance of 158 feet. The descent of the rapids above the falls about 58 feet, making the whole height over SOO feet. Table Rock, which projects about 50 feet, is generally considered the most eligible place for viewing the Falls on the Canada side. The descent from the rock is by circular steps, which are en- closed ; at the foot of these stairs commences the passage under the^ 'great sheet of water, where visitants are supplied with dresses and a guide. The farthest approachable distance i;^ Temiinalion Rock, 153 feet from Table Rock. An English writer, in speaking of Ibis passage says, " We reached a spot 153 feel from the out- side, or entrance, by the assistance of a guide, who makes a handsome livelihood by this amphibious pilotage. There was a tolerably good, green sort of light within this singular cavern ; but the wirtti blew at first in one direction, then in another, with such alarming violence, that I thought, at first, we should be fairly can iedof}' our feet, and jerked into the roaring caldron beneath. This tempest, how- ever, was not nearly so great an inconvenience as the unceasing deluges of water driven against us. Fortunately, the direction of this gale of wind was always more or less upwards, from the Pool below, right against the face of the cliffs ; were it other- 60 THE TOtlKIST. wise, I fancy it would be impossible to go behind the Falls with any chance of coming out again. Even now there is a great appearance of hazard in the expedition, though experience shows that there is no real danger. Indeed, the guide, to reassure us, and to prove the difficulty of the descent, ac- tually leaped downwards to the distance of five or six yards, from the top of the bank of rubbish at the base of the Cliff, along which the path is formed. The gusts of wind rising out of the basin or pool below blew so violently against him that he easily regained the walk." Forsyth's Hotel, on the Canada side, is situated on a commanding spot above the falls. The visiter has a beautiful view of the surrounding country from the roof or piazzas. It is a handsome buildmg, and is capable of accommodating over 100 persons. The Falls on the American side, are magnificent and sublime, though of less magnitude than those on the British side. — A flight of stairs has been erected from the bank to the bottom, a few rods below the falls. A bridge has been erected, by Gen. P. B. Porter of Black Rock, from the shore about a quarter of a mile above the Falls, to Bath Island ; which is connected to Goat Island by means of another bridge. There is a splendid view of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada side from Goat Island ; which is prin- cipally a wilderness. Iris Island, near Goat Island. At the foot of this island is what is called the Biddle stairway, erected by N. Biddle, Esq. President of the U. S. Bank. Here Sam Patch made a leap of 1 18 feet de- * scent into the water below ; a platform supported by ladders was erected for the purpose. This was in the fall of 1829, a short time previous to his last fatal jump at Rochester. A celebrated tourist says, " All WB8TEBN EOUTE FROM ALBANY. 51 parts of Niagara are on a scale which baffles every attempt of the imagination to paint, and it were ridiculous, therefore, to think of describing it. The ordinary materials of description, I mean analogy, and direct comparison with things which are more accessible, fail entirely in the case of that amazing cataract, which is altogether unique." And we, fully concurring in his opinion, leave all farther de- scription for the imagination of the tourist. Two fine Hotels are located on the American side, in what is called the village of Manchester. This village was burnt by the British in 1813. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO BALLSTON AND SARATOGA SPRINGS. The Stage calls at any place in the city, and the traveller has merely to send his name and address to the Stage-oifice. At the northern extremity of the city is the Mansion House of Gen. Stephen Van- Rensselaer, who is possessed of an immense estate (extending 10 miles along the river, and nearly 20 east and west), and bears the old Dutch title of " Patroon of Albany." His liberality in advancing literature, agriculture, and charitable institutions, is proverbial, as he contributes largely to all. Here the Stage strikes the MacAdnmhed road, which is just finisbed, between Tioy and Albany. It is C miles in length, and cost over ^90,000. After tra- velling five miles upon this delightful road, you ar- rive at the U. S. Arsenal, located in a most eligible situation on the west bank of the Hudson. The buildings are constructed of brick and stone. From the arsenal to the upper ferry is a continued range of houses divided into three villages, viz. Watervliet, Port Schuyler, and West Troy ; but where the lines of distinction between these places are drawn it is difEcult to tell. There are two routes hence to Wa- terford ; one leading through Troy and Lansing- burgh, and the other by thejunction of the Erie and nbrtnern canals and Cohoes Falls, which are worthy of a visit. The traveller can pass over both routes in going to or returning from the Springs. In pur- suing the Troy and I-Mnsmgburgh route, the Stage crosses the Hudson in a horseboat from West Troy to the City of Troy. The Citv of Troy is located on the eastern bank of the Hudson, and the scenery in the vicinitT EOtlTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPBINBS. S3 is remarkable'for its beauty, presenting on all hands the alternation of hill and vale, covered with refresh- ing verdure, and the indications of a fertile soil. The streets in the city cross at right angles, running east and west, and north and south. The buildings are many of them elegant, and generally of brick ; and in some of the streets are shaded by trees on each side. Among them are three banks, 7 churclies, a Court-house, Jail, and Market. The most splendid are the Episcopal church (a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture), the (^ourt-house, a veiy fine building ; the Merchants' and Mechanics' Bank, and the Farmers' Bank, adjoining each other, both built of freestone, and very respectable buildings. The Troy Female Seminary, under the superintendence of Mrs. Willard, occupies a large three story brick building belongina; to the Corporation. There are about 13,000 inhabitants in Troy. Mount Ida is in the rear of Troy. From the sum- mit of this hill there is a beautiful view of the river .nnd surrounding country. The Rensselaer School is one and a half miles north of Troy. It is in a flourishing condition, and was established under the patronage of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer. Lansingburgh consists of one long street, run- ning parallel with the river. It is three miles from Troy. It was formerly a place of considerable business, but has now a somewhat dilapidated ap- pearance. The far-famed " diamond rock" is on a hill in the rear of the village. It has at times a very brilliant appearance from the reflected rays of the sun. One mile north, a very stanch bridge crosses the river to the village of Waterford. This is an important village, lo- cated at the confluence of the Mohawk and Hud- son : the Northern Canal communicates with the £3 THE T0VKI3T. river at this place, which gives it many advantages for trade. It has apopulation of about 1700. There is a fine Hotel kept at Watertbrd by Mr. Demarcst, and another liy Mr. Fisk. The Route by the junction of the canal and the Cohoes Falls, uom West Troy to Waterford, is about the same distance as by Troy (4 miles). From West Troy to the junction of the canal and the Hud- son is 2 miles. There are 17 locks on the canal at this place, within the space of three-fourths of a mile. About a mile farther, a bridge crosses the Mohawk river and affords a fine view of the . CoHOES Falls, which are about a mile above the bridge. The descent of the rapids above the falls is about 30 feet, and the perpendicular fall is 40 feet, making a total descent of 70 feet. There is a path by which persons approach within a tew feet of the precipice over which the cataract falls. It is one mile Irom the Cohoes to Waterford, and 8 miles far- ther north to Mechanic-Ville, generally called by the inhabit- ants the Borough, ft contains about 20 dwellings, a cotton factory, and a number of mills. Dunning-Sireet is 8 miles north-west of Me- chanic-Ville, containing a few dwellings, two ta- verns, and a store. It derived its name from a family, who were the first settlers, and still reside there. Four miles thence, in a north-westerly di- rection, is the Ballston Spa, and Saratoga Springs 8 miles north. Ballston Spa is the resort of hundreds of tra- vellers during the summer months. There are a number of springs in the vicinity, the waters of which are not unlike those of Saratoga. A beautiful creek flows along the east end of the village, called the Kayaderosseras, on which a mill is situated a short distance from the viUaje. This creek is a great r.OIITli rK03I ALBANV To THE SPKINUS. 5» )esorl for sporlsmen. Two of the springs ate near Mr. Aldridge's Boarding Hotise ; and the U. S. spring is at the east end of the village near the Sutis Souci Hotel. A lai^e bathina; house is located near this spring, which is furnished with waters (for the purposes of bathing) from all the different springs in the vicinity. There is in the village a Court-house, two churches, an academy and a female seminary ; also a printing office and book store, to which a read- ing room is attached. This village was chartered in 1807, and is directed by three trustees, who are chosen annually. Its population is about 800, and it contains 130 houses. The principal Hotels are The Sans'Souci, kept by Mr. Loorais ; this is the mostextensive, and has more company than any other house. It is 3 stories high, 160 leet in length, with two back wings of 150 feet, and capable of accom- modating over 100 persons. There is a large garden attached to it. Aldridge's Boarding-House has a more retired location, and receives a good Ishare of patronage. 4f There is an extensive and beautiful garden connected with this establishment, which is always open to the guests. The Village Hotel, kept by Mr. Clark, is a few doors from the Sam Souci, and is a very agreeable boarding-house. The Mansion House, in the centre of the village, is well kept by Mr. Kid. Mrs. ]W Master's private boarding-house is near the west spring on Ine flat. Those who wish a re- tired situation will be pleased with this house. The price of board at the houses varies from g3 to 8" per week, A regular mail arrives and depart.s every day. — Sfrangere should be particular to have their letter^; 66 TUE TOURIST. directed " Ballston Spa," as there is another post- office in the {own of ballston. Ballston Lake is six miles from the village, and a ride to' its banks affords a very pleasant ex- cursion. It is 5 miles long and one in width. Hunt- ing and fishing abound on the borders and in the waters of this lake. Sakato(;a Si'KiNGs are situated 7 miles from Balls- ton Spa, in a north-easterly direction. The cele- brity of these springs, not only for their medicinal qualities, but as a lashionable resort, during the summer months, renders any minuteness of detail unnecessary, were it not incompatible with the ob- jects and dimensions of this work. The springs are numerous, and among the most celebrated are the Congress, Hamilton, High-Rock, Columbian, Wash- ington, President, and Flat-Rock. They lie east of the village, on the borders of a valley. The Con- gress spring is the most important, and has the best accommodations for visiters. The Iligh-Rock spring, so called from its being enclosed in a rock of a conical shape, five feet in neight, over the sides of which it formerly flowed, is nearly half a mile * from the Congress spring. The water in the for- ' mer now rises only to within two feet of the summit of the rock, and from this circumstance it is conjee- lured, probably with correctness, that it has found an--iOutlet beneath its base. Commodious bathing houses are established at the Washington, Hamilton, and Mom'oe springs. A library and suit of Reading Hnoms are connected with a bookstore in the village. They are conveniently arranged, and well furnished with periodicals, newspapers, maps, &c. A mine- ralogical collection is also attached to this establish- ment, containing a variety of specimens, both Euro- pean and American, and all those discovered in the neighbourhood. A book is also kept here, in ROUTE I'KOM ALBANY TO THE SPEINGS. 57 tered. The public houses here are conducted on an extensive scale, and equal, in elegance and the ac- commodations afforded the traveller, the hotels of our largest cities. Congress Hall, kept by Mr. J. Westcott, is located in the near vicinity o"f (he Con- gress spring-. Its dimensions are large, and its situa- tion eligible, and a shaded avenue communicates with the spring; and it can accommodate about two hundred persons. The United States' Hotel is situated in (he' centre of the village, and being four stories in height, has a very imposing appearance. Other buildings have been added to the main one. rhis establishment is partly surrounded by grounds laidoul inatasteful manner,and shaded by flourishing trees. It is a splendid house, and admirably kept by Messrs. Ford and Marvin. The Pavilion is next in importance. It is built of wood, and ornamented with colonnades in front of very chaste architecture. It IS near the Flat-Rock spring, is conveniently ar- ranged, and can accommodate nearly one hundred « and fifty visiters. Its proprietor is Mr. J. C. Dillon. The Union Hall is also an extensive and commodi- ous hotel. It is situated opposite Congress Hall, is three stories high, and has a spacious piazza in front, supported by ten lofty pillars. The grounds connected with this house are laid out with taste. Its internal arrangements are convenient ; and its landlord, Mr. VV. Putnam, thoroughly understands (he art of making his guests comfortable. The Co- lumbian Hotel, situated near the Pavilion, in the midst ot gardens, is also a good house, and will not lose by comparison with its rivals. It is kept by Mr. Wil- liams. In a more retired position is Washington Hall, of which Mr. I. Taylor is proprietor; plea- santly situated at the north part of the village, where the invalid, and those who do not mingle with tho which the names of visiters to the Spring 58 THE TOUEIST. gay throng, who pursue pleasure instead of health, may be accommodated in the best style. Amuse- ment is always to be found during a sojourn here. Besides that which arises from the contemplation of the various shades of character with which the crowded scene is enlivened, the library, the reading Tooms, the billiard rooms, and dancing, which seems to prevail among the fashionable invalids, afford all the opportunities for killing Time — that arch enemy — which could be desired. There are also ponds in the vicinity, where the angler can realize all the fileasures so philosophically described by honest saac Walton ; and excursions of a few miles to Saratoga Lake are frequently made. Here the visiter can spend his time in trout-fishing or shooting, «r enjoy a sail along the lake, which is nine miles in length, in boats kept ready for the purpose. There are two pleasant houses on the western border of the lake ; one kept by Mr. Greene, and the other by Mr. Kiley. The mail from New-York arrives every evening, and leaves for New-York and Boston every morning. Visiters should order their letters to be directed to the Saratoga i^Wn^s, as there is another post-office in the town of Saratoga, some miles dis- tant, to which, otherwise, they may chance to be sent. Stages leave the Springs at nine, A. M. and . thfjee, P. M. daily, for Schenectady, passing through Ballston, to meet^he canal packet boats and stages for the west. New Lebason, on the road from Albany to Boston, is about twenty-five miles from Albany, and the same •distanee from Hudson. It is a delightful village, con- taining many attractions for travellers, among which is a mineral spring, which, together with the plea- santness of the countiy, renders it the resort of inva- lids, and those who seek for health in the fresh air of the country. There are here several bathing houses, EOOTE FBOM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 59 well conducted, for which the water is well adapted, being less medicinal than that of the Saratoga Springs, but clear and soft. In the vicinity of the spring is the Shaker Village, consisting of a consi- cferable number of plain wooden houses, painted and adorned in the most unostentatious manner. The peculiar religious services of this people excite the curiosity of strangers, and access to them is easily obtained. THE END.