ravvi- ChC.ua. -f 'Trade ' IN CHINA, INDIA & EUROPE, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE PRESENT DAY. “All knowledge is of itself of some value. There is nothing so minute or inconsiderable that I would not rather know it than not.” Dr. Johnson. ■- RADIES’ UNDEI! CLOTHING. CHEMISES. Plain 2/5 to 10/9 Frilled 2/11 to 16/9 Corded same prices. Trimmed Lace 2/11 to 16/9 NIGHT GOWNS. Plain 3/11 to 10/6 Frilled 4/11 to 13/6 Trimmed 5/6 to 16/6 DRAWERS. Plain and Tucked 2/2 to 1 0/6 Trimmed 3/4 to 18/6 SKIRTS OR PETTICOATS. > Plain and Tucked 4/11 to 13/6 Trimmed 7/11 to 25/6 Children’s Drawers, Chemises, Night Gowns in all sizes. Stays and Corsets in every variety. Amott and Company, Outfitters, 61 & 62, St- Paul’s Church Yard. L ace, embroideries, flowers, feathers AND CRINOLINES. All the New Crinolines for the Autumn, prices from 1/11 to 1 Guinea. French Flowers, Feathers and Wreaths, in great variety, at moderate charges. Silk Braid, Chenille and Fancy Hair Nets. Latest Novelties in Lace Falls. French and English Blond Laces, Ac. &c. A large assortment of Black and White Thread Maltese, Valenciennes Edgings, Ac. A great variety in Muslin Collars and Sets, from 6f to 20/. Black and white Pusher, Yak, Maltese and Spanish Shawls. The latest Novelties in Cap Fronts. An extensive variety of Garibaldi Jackets, in Lace, Cambric, Merino, Tweed and Flannel, from 2/11. AMOTT & COMPANY, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. IN CHINA, INDIA & EUROPE, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES to the PRESENT DAY. •‘All knowledge is of itself of some value. There is nothing so minute or .inconsiderable that I would not rather know it than not.” Dll. JoHNSOM t PRICE SIXPENCE. LONDON : PRINTED FOR AMOTT & COMPANY, SILK MERCERS, &c. St. Paul’s Churchyard. 1865. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Columbia University Libraries https://archive.org/details/silkproductionOOamot B E f 1 1 - 75 - Chawer I. — Discovery of Silk by the Chinese — Its Introduction into India and Europe. Chaftbr II. — Rise and Progress of the Art in Rome, Greece, and Continental Cities. Charter III. — Progress and Perfection of Silk Manufacture in England. Chaster IV. — Effects of the Free Trade Policy. Chapter V. — Silk Rearing, Throwing, and Weaving.— Jacquard and his Loom. Chapter VI.— The Silkworm and the Cultivation of the Mul- berry Tree. ' . Chapter I. DISCOVERY OF SILK BY THE CHINESE; Its Introduction into India and Europe. N China was first discovered the valuable and elegant uses to which the Cocoon might be applied. The written records of that country declare that an Empress was the first to unravel, with her delicate fin- gers, the filmy thread, and dexterously to work it into a beautiful web of cloth. This event is alleged to have taken place nearly three thousand years before the Christian era, so that the discovery of Silk dates back to a very remote period. That a long and successful practice of the Silk manufacture must have been in operation in the Celes- tial Empire before it was introduced into Europe is certain. So important was it, indeed, that the Chinese and their country are named Seres and Serica in ancient writings, from the Chinese word Se, which means Silk. The Macedonian Greeks employed the term Serica to designate the country which produced the elegant fabric; 6 that came overland from the north of China. So little was known respecting Silk in the early ages, that some writers considered it a natural product, and describe it as “ a downy wool combed from the leaves of trees.’* For ages the material itself was imported from China,, and manufactured in Persia, Tyre, Berytus, and other cities ; and thus the woven fabric readied several parts of Europe and Asia. The author of the u Periplus of the Erythraean Sea,’* speaks of Silk in Malabar as “ an article imported from countries farther to the East.” Hence it would appear that the culture of the silk- worm and the manufacture of Silk had not even been introduced into India four hundred years after Silk was known in Europe. In. the country of the Thinae, both the raw and manufac- tured article were obtained. The silk-worm all this, time was unknown, except to the privileged inhabitants, of the Celestial Empire. Aristotle and Pliny, how- ever, had obtained accurate accounts of it. The former is the first Greek author who alludes to it — [Hat. Hist, v. 19.] He affirms that “ Silk was first spun in the- Island of Kos, one of the Islands of the Grecian Archi- pelago ; but that the raw material was still an Oriental product.” Pliny in commenting on this passage, observes, that the Silk came from Assyria, and was worked up by the Greek women. But the fact of' Pamphila, a native of Kos, being the first to unweave imported silken fabrics for the purpose of spinning and /weaving them anew into lighter or gauze materials,, seems conclusive against this assertion** of Aristotle. A similar practice was adopted by the Ladies of Rome~ 7 Tlie “ Median Robes,” spoken of by Greek authors, during the time of the Persian Empire, and so highly extolled for their lustrous beauty and brilliancy, were doubtless silken vestments. Long afterwards, when Silk had been introduced into Europe, Procopius states that the “robes which were formerly called Median by the Greeks are now called silken.” The probability is that Silk was used in Western Asia, prior to its being known to the Greeks, and that it was in general use among these people long before they were awa-re whence the substance was derived, and how it was produced. Precise information respecting the substance from which the Seres formed their cloths is given by Pausanius. “They have” he remarks, “a spinning, insect which is kept in buildings, and produces a fine spun thread, which is wrapped about its feet.” The singular obscurity which enveloped this subject was not cleared up until the sixth century. Silk was at that time an article of general use among the Romans, and was manufactured for them by the inhabitants of Tyre and Berytus in Phoenicia. The Persians mono- polized the supply of the raw material, and guarded their trade with so much jealousy, both by land and sea, that travellers from or to China were not suffered to traverse the Persian dominions ; and at the time of Justinian, owing to some interference with the trade, they had altogether discontinued the importation of Silk. The trade in Silk was in this unsatisfactory condition when a fortuitous occurrence took place, which ex- tended the manufacture of the commodity to the Western World. The circumstance is noteworthy. 8 Two Nestorian Monks of Persia, wlio had gone to th» East in the capacity of Missionaries, returned to Con- stantinople. While in China they had carefully ob- served, and apparently fully comprehended, the various processes connected with the rearing of the silk-worm, the character of the trees on which it fed, and the preparation of the Silk itself. They brought with them safely to Constantinople, a quantity of the eggs of the silk-worm, securely secreted in a hollow cane. These were hatched by artificial means, and fed upon mul- berry leaves. Justinian, to whom the Monks revealed the secret, gave every encouragement to the intro- duction of this valuable insect. At Constantinople these Monks continued to superintend the rearing of the insects, and the process of manufacturing Silk. Thus, from so small a beginning have sprung the myriads of silk-worms, which throughout Europe and Western Asia have met the continuous and increasing demand for Silk. The breeding of silk-worms in Europe was for six centuries confined to the Greeks of the Lower Empire. In the twelfth century the art was transferred to Sicily. During the thirteenth century, both the rearing of silk -worms, and the manufacture of Silk were introduced into Italy, and from thence into Spain and France. £ 9 Chapter II. RISE AND PROGRESS OF THE ART In Rome, Greece, and Continental Cities. OR several centuries the Persians .supplied the Roman Empire with the Silks of China. Caravans traversed the ! entire latitude of Asia, in two hundred and forty-three days, from the Chinese ocean to the sea-coast of Syria, carrying this commodity. This was after the con- quest of Persia, by Alexander the Great. The Emperor Heliogabulqs is said to have been the first man among the Romans who wore a garment of fine Silk, and such was considered a wanton prodi- gality. In the reign of Augustus, this fabric was very little known ; while in the reign of Tiberius, Silk from the East was only worn by Ladies of distinguished rank. Aurelian complained that a pound of Silk was sold at Rome for twelve ounces of gold , and it is said that, owing to its exorbitant price, he refused to give his wife permission to wear it. Men were forbidden to wear any silken fabric, so they substituted for it a mixed material known as sub-sericum , which the Roman women likewise used. The great cost and difficulty attending the importation of Silk to Rome, caused Marcus Antoninus (in the second century) to send Envoys to China, in order, if possible, to establish commercial 10 relations with the people of that country. The Embassy met with little success ; so Rome continued to be sup- plied with Silk as before, by means of the Caravans of Persia. During several years the manufacture of Silk, so imperfectly commenced, remained in the hands of the Romans. But a rival nation was destined to outdo them. The silk -worm became gradually introduced into Greece, and the Mulberry tree planted to supply food for the insect ; so that ultimately the Greek Empire became the great European seat of the manufacture, and reaped the advantage of the monopoly for nearly six hundred years. The Greek Ladies, who had few amusements, employed themselves assiduously in the manufacturing arts, of which that of Silk was doubtless the most agreeable. Even in the heroic age wives and daughters did not pass their time fruitlessly. Homer introduces Penelope, Queen of the wandering Ulysses, as busy at her loom ; from whence has arisen the story of “ Penelope’s web,” emblematic of women’s cease- less toil. Upon the sacking of Corinth, Athens and Thebes, in 1447, by Roger II, King of Sicily, large numbers of the inhabitants of these cities were carried off to Palermo and Calabria, where they introduced the culture of the silk-worm and the manufacture of Silk. From Palermo this profitable art made its way into Italy, so that Venice, Florence, Lucca, Modena, and Milan, became celebrated for the beauty and extent of its Silk fabrics. Florence, at the commencement of the sixteenth cen- tury, began the experiment of producing and preparing 11 Silk, under the direct patronage of government ; and in 1300, many thousand persons were employed in the manufactories of that city. During the preceding cen- tury the raw material had to he imported ; for the Mulberry tree being of tardy growth, the Florentines were induced to occupy their land in the cultivation of more certain though certainly less profitable products. The laws regulating the manufacture of Silk were particularly stringent, and the greatest jealousy was displayed towards foreign manufactures, especially to that of the Lucchese, their instructors in the art. It appears from a return that Florence produced about four hundred bales of raw Silk annually, in addition to brocades and similar sumptuous fabrics now compara- tively unknown, to the amount of a Million of Gold ! Tills valuable and important branch of industry, how- ever, was nearly extinguished by the protection laws of the seventeenth century. So high was the manufacture of Silk held in Venice, that the occupation was considered in no way deroga- tory to the more distinguished classes of the commu- nity ; and Venice could boast of a proud aristocracy. Bologna, until the beginning of the sixteenth century, was the only city of Italy which possessed proper throwing mills. The consequence was that the manu- facturers of other cities had to send their Silk there to be twisted, and otherwise prepared for the weaver. Spain, no less than Italy, proved very favourable to the culture of the silk-worm ; while the cities of Granada, Murcia, and Cordona, possessed numerous establish- ments for the production of silken fabrics. 12 Before the taking of the City of Antwerp by the Duke of Parma, in 1585, the merchants of that place carried on a very extensive and lucrative trade in Silk. Singular to say, however, they retained none of the costly goods for their own wear. An old writer thus quaintly alludes to their primitive manners : u They buy infinitely but it is to sell again. They are the great masters of Indian Spices and Persian Silks, yet wear plain linen and feed upon their own fish and roots. They sell the finest of their own cloths to France, and buy coarse cloth out of England for their own wear. In short, they furnish luxury which they never practice, and traffic in pleasures which they never taste.” The introduction of Silk into France is attributed to Louis XL, who obtained workmen from Genoa, Venice, and Florence. The first Silk manufactory was esta- blished at Tours. But the experiment did not succeed, and a fresh importation of workmen, in the time of Francis I., had to be obtained from Milan. These artizans were established at Lyons ; and under the en- couragement and fostering care of the monarch, their efforts to restore Silk production proved prosperous. Finally, the manufacture flourished and extended to other parts of France, supplying not only the demands of that kingdom, but a superabundance for foreign markets ; that of England among the rest. Since that period Silk manufacture has become one of the most important branches of the national industry. When the French Revolution broke out, the estimated quan- tity of native Silk produced annually, was one million 13 of pounds. Owing to the state of war there had been no increase for twenty years. Between the years 1812 and 1820, we have no estimate of the progress of pro- duction ; but according to the official report of Dr. Bowring, the annual Silk produce of France in 1832, was about three million pounds. The total value of the Silk industry of France is calculated at two hun- dred thousand francs, or about eight million sterling. French Silk is generally of very excellent quality. This is accounted for by the fact, that the soil is favourable to the promotion of that degree of vigour in the vege- tation which gives to Mulberry leaves a peculiar quality that imparts a degree of fineness and brilliancy to the Silk produced from the worms fed thereon. li Chapter III. THE PROGRESS & PERFECTION OF SILK MANUFACTURE IN ENGLAND. 3 ROM a very early time Silk has been used in England, but only as an occasional article of sumptuous display. Shortly after the Conquest, mention is made of silken fabrics. On the occasion of the nuptials celebrated between Margaret, (daughter of Henry III), and Alexander II, of Scotland, as many as one thousand English Knights appeared clad in Cointisses of Silk, and these were replaced the following day by other garments equally splendid. The successful progress of Silk manufacture in France, induced an increased supply and a more general use of the fabric in this country, and to such an extent as to alarm the Rulers of the Nation. They were afraid that home productions would suffer by the importation of foreign goods. Hence a sumptuary law was passed during the reign of Mary, (a.d. 1554), purporting, “That whoever shall wear Silk in or upon his or her hat , u bonnet , or girdle , scabbard, hose, shoes, or spur leather, u SHALL BE IMPRISONED DURING THREE MONTHS, AND “forfeit ten pounds.” This ridiculous enactment was repealed shortly after the accession of James I. to the Throne. It must be borne in mind, that about the period to 15 which we refer, elegance had no existence. The use of linen was almost unknown, and the most delicate of the fair sex considered it not uncomely to wear a woollen chemise and woollen shoes ! During the reign of Henry Till, the Peers of the Realm carried their wives behind them on horseback when they travelled to London, and in the same manner took them back to their country seats, having hoods of waxed linen on their heads, and wrapped in mantles of cloth to protect them from the cold. Even in Italy, during the thirteenth century, the greatest Ladies thought that they were full dressed with a close gown of coarse scarlet cloth, taken in at the waist by a girdle of leather, and a fur mantle, the hood of which covered their heads ; while the women of low degree wore a dress of the same shape, only made of coarse green cambray. Silk garments, during early times in this country, could only be worn by persons of opulence and distinc- tion. Once an inferior domestic of the Duke of Leeds attempted to celebrate his Grace’s Marriage, in doggrel verse, where amongst other privileges that of wearing an expensive silken fabric is introduced : — Two of the stanzas are as follows : — “ When the Duke of Leeds shall married be, To a fine young Lady of high quality, How happy will that gentlewoman be, In his Grace of Leeds good company ! “ She shall have all that’s fine and fair, And the best of Silk and Satin shall wear, And ride in a Coach to take the air, And have a house in St. James’s Square.” 16 What a revolution in dress has been affected at home and abroad during the present century ! Now, all classes of the community wear silken fabrics of various kinds. A celebrated Lady now living, once startled Thomas Moore, the poet, by showing him a single dress worn at the Queen’s Ball, worth one hundred thousand pounds! The moderate prices for which rich Silk Dresses and other Silken fabrics can be obtained at the present day, are not the less surprising, as the reader may discover upon visiting the Establishment of AMOTT & COMPANY, St. Paul’s Churchyard, London. Nor should the growing taste and ambition of all classes of the community to dress well be discouraged, or regarded as improper. This desire arises from the public advance in prosperity, education, and refinement, and exhibits striking evidence of increasing national pride and individual self-respect. When a gentleman informed the celebrated moralist and writer, Dr. Johnson, that he had bought a rich suit of Silk for his Lady, he said, “ Well, sir, you have done a good thing and a wise thing.” “ I have done a good thing,” said the gentleman, “ but I do not know that I have done a wise thing.” “Yes, sir,” retorted Johnson, “no money is better spent than what is laid out for domestic satis- faction. A man is pleased that his wife is dressed as well as other people ; and a wife is pleased that she is dressed.” ^ James I. was very solicitous (particularly in 1608 ), about the new manufacture, and manifested consider- able anxiety to have it introduced into England. For 1 i this end he recommended the subject several times from the Throne, but without any practical effect. Towards the close of the King’s reign, however, (about 1620), the broad Silk manufacture was intro- duced into this country, and prosecuted with vigour and profit. So considerable, indeed, had this branch of industry become in London alone, that the Silk throwsters of the City were incorporated into a Guild. In 1661, this Company employed over forty-thousand work-people. A great spur was given to the promotion of Silk manufacture in 1685, by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. This decree banished from France a large number ©f her most skilful artificers, about seventy thousand of whom took refuge in England and Ireland. A considerable body of emigrants, Silk weavers by trade, settled in Spitalfields, whose de- scendants are still to be found in that plebeian locality. England was entirely dependent upon foreigners for crganzine Silk, until 1719, when Mr. Lombe, of Derby, set up a Silk-throwing machine in that city. This gentleman being an excellent mechanic and draughts- man, set out to Italy the previous year, disguised as a common working man. Upon seeking admission into one of the Silk manufactories of Piedmont, he was at first repelled ; but he effected his purpose eventually by bribing two of the workmen. The information thus received he carefully committed to paper each night before he retired to rest, besides taking accurate draw- ings of the Silk-tlirowing machinery. Upon his return to England he erected a mill on the river Derwent, which excited no small degree of astonishment at tha ; 18 time. An account is preserved of it. The "building was five stories high, and one-eighth of a mile in length. The machinery embraced 26,586 wheels, and 97,746 movements, which worked 73,726 yards of organzine Silk thread with every revolution of the water wheel by which the machinery was set in motion. As this wheel revolved three times every minute, the daily produce of organzine amounted to nearly four million of yards. Subsequently, the proprietor’s cousin, Sir Thomas Lombe petitioned Parliament for a renewal of the patent, which was declined. He received in lieu of this privilege a grant of £14,000, owing to the national benefit accruing from the labours of his family. It is only within the past quarter of a century, that the manufacture of Silk has been firmly established in this country, although Silk goods have been made since the time of Edward III., and various laws passed for the protection of that particular industry. The foreign manufactured article was strictly prohibited in 1765, nor was any change made in our fiscal policy for a long series of years. Although a treaty of commerce was entered into with France in 1786, singular to say, Silken fabrics were excluded therefrom. This arrange- ment legally secured to the English manufacturer the exclusive possession of the home market. Had it been otherwise, he could not possibly have competed with the undeniably superior productions of foreign looms. Upon the importation of raw and thrown Silk, heavy duties were imposed. The English manufacturers, secure in their legal monopoly, possessed no stimulus ito improvement; consequently, very tardy progress 19 was made, in some degree, owing to the intermittent changes of fashion which subjected them to violent vicissitudes. Up to the year 1824, therefore, the Silk trade of England was constantly alternating between prosperity and distress. This anomalous state of things became wholly changed at the period stated, and was the precurser of better things to come. “ The high duties,” observes Mr. G. R. Porter, in his excellent work The Progress of the Nation , “of 5/6 per lb. imposed upon raw Silk, and of 14/8 per lb. upon thrown Silk were reduced, the former to 3d., and the latter to 7/6 per lb. These rates were afterwards further reduced, that on raw Silk to Id., and that on thrown Silk to 3/6 per lb.” The duties on importation, which were prospectively repealed in 1824, became wholly abolished in 1845. The quantity of raw, waste, and thrown Silk imported during 1824 exceeded four million of lbs. ; but in 1849 it nearly reached seven million of lbs. It has been observed that during the years when the Silk manufacture is depressed and when there is less than the usual de- mand for thrown Silk, our importations of that article are invariably greatest. So long as the manufacture is prosperous, the Silk throwsters of Italy find ready buyers in France and Germany. When the ordinary demand is checked, England is their only available market. The progress of Silk manufacture in this country may be conceived from the following statistics. In 1820, the number of Silk mills in the townships of Manchester and Salford was but five, whereas in 1832 20 they had increased to three times that number. In 1832 there were 286 Silk mills in England, employing nearly 35,000 persons of both sexes. Of these mills the greater number were worked by steam power. England now possesses better machinery, capital in abundance, and manufacturing skill and commercial combinations which set all other countries at defiance. Apparently we are behind foreign nations in the pos- session of taste and the invention of patterns. But these disadvantages may be overcome were the English manufacturer but made to feel that he must enter the field of competition with foreign producers on equal terms. The public are not deficient in taste, for the handsomest French fabrics are always preferred to those of home manufacture. “ As regards the texture of Silk fabrics,” observes Mr. Porter, F.R.S., the author already quoted ffom, “ English-made goods are now fully equal to the best that are produced by our neighbours. The greater cheapness of the necessaries of life in France as com- pared with England, gives an advantage in point of price to the French weaver over his English compe- titor, and this advantage is, of course, the greater in those descriptions of goods into the cost of which labour enters in the greatest proportion, such as gauzes, and other light and fancy fabrics. We have seen, however, that as regards other kinds of Silk goods, our manufacturers are enabled to compete with their formidable rivals in matters which are equally open to both, and that we are, in fact, exporting continually the produce of our Silk looms to France itself.” 21 In both countries the result of the manufacture is placed in striking contrast in one particular. It is ascertained that while two-thirds of the Silk goods made in France are exported, the export of English- made fabrics does not amount to one-tenth of the quantity that passes through our looms, which are more than replaced by the foreign manufactures im- ported for use. Upon calculating the difference between the population and the cost of production in France, the conclusion is inevitable, that the consump- tion of Silk goods is more than five times as great in the United Kingdom than it is in the French Empire,; where Silk fabrics below the value of three million sterling are only left for a population exceeding tliirty-.- five million of inhabitants. 22 Chapter IY. EFFECTS OF THE FREE TRADE POLICY. HE effect of Free Trade measures "concerning Silks up to 1846 lias been productive of benefit, and not of evil, to the manufacturers of this country. Up to the year 1846 the duty chargeable upon each kind of foreign-made Silk goods was about 30 per cent, on the value. This protection was reduced in the year just mentioned exactly one-half, or 15 per cent. Ruin was at once predicted. The Edinburgh Review for July, 1849, observes : — “ We have made particular inquiries and are assured by one of the largest wholesale dealers in both British and foreign Silks, carrying on business in the metropolis that, ‘ speaking generally of the silk trade of this country, no prejudicial effect whatever has been produced by the last reduction of duty on foreign Silks ; but, on the contrary, a very beneficial one, by bringing the manufacturers of this country more closely into competition with the French, and thereby calling their silk into more active operation, by which the manufacture itself cannot fail to benefit. There can be no better proof of the advancing skill of the English manufacturer than the fact of his produc- tions meeting those of other countries in third markets. This they do to a considerable extent ; not, as has been asserted, in the single form of Silk yarn spun from 23 the refuse of the throwing mills, but in rich goods, stubs and ribbons, lace, hosiery, and almost all the other forms given by the loom and frame to the material. During 1848, when our export trade with Europe was materially lessened through political troubles, which deranged the pursuits of almost every continental state, our exports of Silk stuffs and ribbons exceeded 400,000 lbs. weight.’ ” As respects raw Silk, till 1842 the produce of British India was not only unfairly burdened, but was allowed an advantage in our tariff over foreign Silk — the duty being then at the enormous rate of 5/6 and 4/0 per lb. In 1824, the duty was reduced to 3d., and in 1826 to Id. per lb. equally on all Silk wherever produced. The charge made by English throwsters, previous to 1824, for converting raw Silk into organzine was somewhat about 10/0 per lb. At that time the duty imposed upon foreign organzine was 14/8 or 9/2 beyond the duty upon raw Silk, and yet a much larger proportion of the material used in our Silk looms was then thrown abroad than has since been the case. Now that our throwsters have been for over twenty years exposed to competition with foreigners, they have suc- ceeded in bringing down their charge from 10/0 to from 3/0 to 5/0 per lb., the rate depending upon the quality of the Silk. Aftqr the opening of our markets to foreign coun- tries, great evil was apprehended by the Silk manufac- turers of England, who being accustomed to work only for the higher classes, had necessarily to undergo the evils attendant upon a circumscribed market. 24 That these fears were perfectly groundless the expe- rience of the first twenty-five years fully establishes. For by improvements in manufacture and the great reduction they were enabled to make in the prices of their goods by the application of machinery, they include among their customers a very considerable part of the population, whose growing taste, self- respect, and education, induce them to dress after a better model than persons of their class did of yore. The important reductions of duties upon foreign Silks •effected by the Government in 1846 must further tend to develope this particular branch of manufacture. Not only has the Silk manufacturer reached the poorer classes of this country, but he successfully competes in foreign markets, the value of exported Silk goods from the United Kingdom amounting to, if not over, a million sterling. Three-fifths of the exports are made to Europe, but the most considerable part of our ex- port of Silks are shipped to British America, the United States, and the West India Islands. A tide of prosperity set in owing to the reduction of the cost of the material. The throwing mills in the country increased from 1 75 to 266, and the number of •spindles from 780,000 to 1,180,000. Notwithstanding this productive power, it was impossible for the throwsters to keep pace with the demands of the weavers, who “ were frequently kept waiting whole months for Silk to enable them to complete the orders which they had on hand.” Prosperity was checked by the panic at the close of 1825. The manufacturers clamoured at the time, but 25 the distress that had overtaken their trade quickly passed’ away, and in 1827 a larger quantity of Silk was manu- factured in this country than had ever before passed through our looms. The advantage which has attended the relaxation in our prohibitive policy is clear. During the ten years preceding 1824, the quantity of raw and thrown Silk used by our manufacturers amounted to nearly nineteen, million of lbs., or nearly two million per annum ; that in the ten years immediately following the change of system, the quantity used was nearly thirty-seven million of lbs., or nearly four million per annum, or an increase of 95 per cent. Notwithstanding the great increase in the quantity of Silk employed in our looms, the quantity of thrown Silk imported has not augmented but rather diminished during the last sixty years. Competition has driven forward manufacture in both its branches. By means of improved machinery the cost of the process has been diminished. By the adoption and improvement upon the ingenious machinery of Jacquard, our weavers are now enabled to produce fancy goods fully equal, and in some instances actually superior, to those of France, although the cost of production is not reduced to the level of that country. In 1810, when the smugglers’ difficulties were in- creased by the war, the quantity of contraband Silks brought into consumption in this country was felt to be so injurious to the manufacturers, that they formed themselves into an association for the prevention of smuggling. Again, in years 1818-19, numerous pefci-' 26 tions were presented to Parliament by the Silk weavers of Coventry and Spitalfields, complaining of tbis illegal competition, and stating that by means of it “ tbe demand for manufactured goods bad for some time past so decreased as to afford serious ground of alarm to tbe manufacturers, and to threaten tbe existence of tbe Silk manufacture of tbis country.” Even low rates of duty bad great evils attendant upon them. A large proportion of tbe Silk goods shipped from France for England found their way into use without passing through the Custom House. From tbe years 1827 to 1843, this contraband trade bad been excessive, fifty parts in one hundred of the Silk goods shipped from France to England having been smuggled. In 1846, a considerable abatement was made in tbe rates of duty chargeable on foreign Silk manufactures, while last year the duty was entirely removed, thus placing Silken fabrics within the reach of those who otherwise could not afford to purchase them. 27 Chapter V . SILK REELING, THROWING & WEAVING. JACQUARD AND HIS LOOM. CCOKDING to Bonbycidse, the na- turalist, cocoons average in weight about three grains each, the average ^M^-'length of Silk upon which, on beim reeled off, being 300 yards. Twelve lbs. of cocoons, however, are required to yield one lb. of reeled Silk, so nume- rous are the impurities to be got rid of. About one ounce of Silkworm eggs will produce 100 lbs. of cocoons. Sixteen lbs. of Mulberry leaves will afford food sufficient for the production of one lb. of cocoons, and each Mulberry tree will yield about 100 lbs. of leaves. These figures will afford easy means of 'Calculating the number of insects, eggs, trees, leaves, &c., necessary for the production of six or eight million lbs. of Silk, about the annual consumption of the United Kingdom. The process of reeling, or the drawing off of the silken filament from the cocoon, is usually accomplished only in those countries where the worm is reared. The insect is not suffered to die a natural death, but the. cocoon is exposed to the heat of the sun or of an oven; until the insect is stifled. Then an external soft en- velope is removed, constituting floss 8/17?, the real Silk ; 28 being wonnd closely around the cocoon in an aggluti- nated mass. The cocoons are immersed in warm water until the gum is dissolved. The reeler, generally a woman or girl, detaches with a whisk or brush the ends of ten or twenty filaments from as many cocoons, winds them, two or three together, on a reel, then joins a few of these groups together, and so on until all form one thread, very much thicker than the original filament, but nevertheless exceedingly fine. Fresh cocoons are thrown into the vessel of hot water as quickly as the old ones are exhausted, so that the thread is made thereby continuous, the temperature of the water being made such as to enable the cocoons to give off the fila- ments as quickly as the reeler can wind them. Such is the simple operation of reeling. Subsequently the reels are made up into hanks, which present different appearances according to the country from whence they are obtained. At one time it was considered that the process of reeling could only be carried on in Silk-producing countries, because the cocoons cannot be conveyed long distances with safety, and as a warm climate is neces- sary. At Middleton, Manchester, and Macclesfield, inventions have been successfully employed and a .system of apparatus applied for reeling silk and for throwing or twisting the Silk so reeled. By this pro- cess (the details of which would not interest the general reader), the winding into hanks as performed by the Silk growers abroad, the winding of bobbins from the hanks, and the necessary cleansing process as per- formed by the throwsters, are entirely dispensed with. 29 The regularity of the movement produces a thread more free from knots than ordinary reeled Silk, there being in fact, no reeling, no hank, as the Silk is spun directly, from the cocoons. The bobbins of the machinery rotate 3,000 times per minute. As the principle of the cotton-spindle and flyer is adopted, there is means of adapting the apparatus to the production of different kinds of thread — an extraordinary advantage. Besides there is said to take place a more complete extraction of the silk from the cocoons, a greater regularity and uniformity in the thread, an avoidance of waste, and though last not least, a saving of wages. Silk is now imported in hanks simply reeled and not regularly twisted. In China and India the Silk is reeled very unequally, there being as few as five and as many as fifteen filaments in each thread. In the throwing mills of Lancashire, Derbyshire, &c., the Silk is doubled, twisted, and hardened. Silk is made into what are technically called dumb singles, for weaving into gauze and other light fabrics ; into thrown singles , which, when wound, cleaned, and thrown, is used for weaving into ribbons and common Silks ; into tram , which is doubled as well as thrown, and is employed for the weft of the better description of goods ; into organzine , used for the warp ; and finally into sewing Silk, which is the thickest and best of all. These various descriptions of Silk are obtained by the pro- cesses of winding, cleaning, doubling, and twisting, carried to a greater or a lesser extent. The winding is the transference of Silk to bobbins ; the cleaning is effected by passing the filament through a cleft in a 30 piece of steel, whereby impurities and irregularities are removed ; and the doubling and twisting are pro- cesses in which two or more threads are twisted round each other. Silk spinning is comparatively a modern process, differing only in detail from the general routine of cotton-spinning. We cannot more opportunely conclude the present chapter than by making brief reference to Jacquard and his famous invention. Jacquard was a straw-hat manufacturer of Lyons. It is said that his attention was first directed to the subject of mechanical invention by reading a paragraph in a newspaper offering a reward for a machine capable of making nets. He produced the machine ; but, sin- gular to say, did not claim the reward. Finally he was sent for to Paris, and introduced to the Emperor, Napoleon I., who had him employed in correcting the defects of a loom belonging to the State, upon which a large sum had been expended. Not only did he suc- ceed, but he improved upon the model of Yaucauson by producing an apparatus called after his name. He returned to his native city with a pension of 1,000 crowns. The apophthegm that a prophet is not favourably received in his own city and amongst his own people, had another illustration in the case of Jacquard. The Cornell de Prud 1 homines appointed to guard the in- terests of the Lyonese trade, ordered his machine to be destroyed in La Place Publique , when, to use the pathetic expression of Jacquard himself, “ The iron was sold for iron, and the wood for wood, and he, its in- 31 vent or, was delivered over to universal ignominy!” Other countries, however, appreciated the invention, and had it in successful operation, rivalling and even excelling the products of the French loom, before the Lyonese perceived their folly or repented of their error. 32 Chapter VI. THE SILKWORM AND. THE CULTIVATION OF THE MULBERRY TREE. HE Silkworm, the scientific name of which is Phalcena, Bornbyx , is a species of larvae or caterpillar which, like all others of its class, undergoes, during the course of its existence, several transforma- tions. The changes of form it assumes are four. The eggs of the Silkworm are deposited during summer, by the female, in the peculiar form of a grey moth. The eggs, when first laid, are in size similar to a grain of mustard seed and of a yellow colour, which colour in two or three days changes to a bluish cast. These eggs are covered with a liquid which glues them to the cloth or paper on which the female is made to deposit them, but from which they are freed easily by immersion in cold water, and being afterwards dried and kept at a proper temperature, they may be preserved during the winter and spring without danger, until the food on which they feed when in a more perfect state is ripe for consumption. For hatching in France they are tied up in packages which are tied round the girdles of the women during the day and placed under their pillows at night When otherwise treated they are placed in a room heated gradually by a stove up to a temperature 33 of about eighty degrees. In the course of eight or ten gays the eggs are hatched. The worms are now covered with sheets of paper on which the leaves of the Mulberry tree have been spread. The sheets of paper are perforated with numerous small holes, through which the worms make their way up to the Mulberry leaves, their natural food. The leaves soon become covered with worms. These leaves with the worms are now carried off the sheets of paper and laid upon shelves of wicker work covered with brown paper. This is continued twice a day until all the hatched worms are laid on the wicker-work. The Silkworm when first hatched is black in colour, and in length does not exceed one-fourth of an inch. The desire for food is the first symptom it exhibits of life, and at this period it is more active than at any other. When about eight days have elapsed after its hatching, it becomes much enlarged and it turns sick, refuses food, and remains in a state of lethargy for about three days. This sickness would appear to arise from the pressure of the animal’s skin, which has become too tight for the increased bulk of its body. Nature has furnished it, however, with the power of casting its skin, and when this operation has been performed, the animal again revives# and betakes itself to food. In five days after the first moulting, the worm has acquired consi- derable size, being now generally half-an-inch long, at which period it again sickens and a second moulting takes place. In five days more it has acquired tho length of three-fourths of an inch, and a third moult- ing comes on. In five days more the worm casts its 34 fourth and last skin, having increased in length to about two inches. It now devours much food, *and increases greatly in magnitude for ten days, when it has reached its full growth of about three inches in length. The worm may now be more advantageously examined as to its structure than at any other period of its existence. Its body is begirt ' by twelve rings, which approach to or recede from each other during the motion of the animal. It is furnished with six scaly legs in front and ten membranous ones behind, the latter being terminated by small hooks. The mouth is very large compared to the size of the body ; it opens vertically, unlike the mouths of most animals, and the jaws are formed after the manner of the teeth of a saw. There are nine breathing holes on each side of the body, and there are likewise seven eyes on each side of the head. Below the jaw there are two small orifices through which the worm ejects its silken fila- ment. At the period of the worm’s existence of which we have been speaking it shows a disposition to leave its food, when it considerably diminishes in bulk, becoming at the same time semi-transparent. Twigs of broom or green oak are now laid on the wicker frames, and the worms are placed more closely together. The spinning process now commences.' The worm throws its head about in various directions and spins the floss or outer net-work of its cocoon, and then winds the Silk thread round its body as regularly as a spinner builds the thread upon the cope. The silken substance is a liquid glutinous matter in the body of the animal, and this glutinous property causes the two 35 filaments issuing from the orifices above mentioned to adhere and form one continuous thread. The spinning process is finished in the course of from three to four days, after which the cocoons are collected together, the finest being selected for seed and the rest set apart for winding. The animal remains in its silken tomb for about twenty days. It then exudes a lubricating liquid to facilitate its freement, and by knocking its head against the cocoon it extricates itself in the form of a butterfly. The number of eggs produced by the female moth varies from 200 to 500 ; about 200 cocoons will yield one ounce of seed, and one ounce of seed-eggs will produce eighty lbs. of cocoons, or even more. The Silk of a cocoon weighs two and a half grains, and affords a length of thread equal to from 750 to 1,160 feet. As we have already stated, the leaves of the Mul- berry tree are the natural food of the Silkworm, and therefore it can only be reared in those climates where such trees grow. Attempts have been made to substi- tute other vegetables, such as lettuce leaves, but the re- sults have not been such as to induce the practice to any extent. The Mulberry (monos) is a genus of plants allied to the nettle, and belonging to the natural family urti- cacece. The species are trees bearing alternate simple and often lobed leaves and unconspicuous flower's. The fruit is edible. The white Mulberry (M. alba) is the most in- teresting of the genus on account of its leaves being used as food for Silkworms. It grows to the height of forty or fifty feet, with a trunk two or more feet in diameter. The berries are white, sometimes, however, 1 36 varying to red, and possess a sweet and insipid taste. The tree is a native of China, and was brought from India to Europe about the middle of the sixth century. It is now cultivated and naturalised through- out the south of Europe, and in some of the central parts of that continent. In southern climates the leaves appear to contain a less proportion of water and more of that substance which causes the worms to produce silk in greater abundance and of a finer quality. In Greece, Asia Minor, and Persia, it is usual to give the worms the branches with the leaves attached to them ; but in Spain, Italy, and France, the leaves are carefully stript from the trees, care being taken to despoil each tree entirely, otherwise the sap will be unequally attracted. The Mulberry tree which is to be met with in England is the black Mulberry (M. nigra), is about as large as the white Mulberry, and is said to be a native of Persia. The leaves are sometimes substituted for those of the white Mulberry for Silkworms, but such experi- ments have not proved satisfactory. James the First was desirous to promote the breed- ing and rearing of Silkworms during his reign, and in 1608 addressed circular letters to persons of influence throughout the country, recommending the subject to them. The experiment was attempted accordingly, but it proved unsuccessful. Most of the old Mulberry trees found in the present day in the neighbourhood of ancient mansions were planted at the period referred to. Although several times attempted in America, the experiment met with no better result. , Dr. Bowring’s second official report on the commer- 37 cial relations between France and England, contains an extract from a paper furnished by Messrs. Thomas^ Freres of Avignon, and the information therein con- tained will serve to account for the vast increase expe- rienced in the production of Silk when compared with the early part of the century “ The cultivation of Mulberry leaves,” remarks Messrs. Thomas, “ was for a long time only an acces- sory branch of the income derived from their estates by the small as well as by the larger proprietors ; their cultivation, as compared with that of grain and other articles peculiar to certain districts, was the less thought of because the rearers of Silkworms in the South of France were so much under the influence of long-standing practice, prejudices, and ancient absur- dities, that the management of their business was unin- telligible, and its production most uncertain. Had they attended, as they finally did, to the simplest elements of chemistry, they would have rendered these harvests more certain than any other crop. “ These rearers of Silkworms differed materially in their method of proceeding. Sometimes the farmers sold the Mulberry leaves, or gave them in lieu of a participation of the profits, to some rearer of Silk- worms who devoted his particular attention to the worm alone. Sometimes the leaves were sold to other rearers, who from the excessive numbers they hatched, were not able sufficiently to provide them with leaves. So late as twenty years back, so imperfect were the methods pursued, that on a farm furnishing leaves for ten or twelve dozen of Silkworms’ eggs, which should 38 produce from eighty to 100 lbs, df cocoons per ounce, it was considered a good crop if five or six lbs. alto- gether were produced. It was not until the close of the reign of Napoleon, ‘when the iactive spirit of the nation sought other fields for exertion than the field of battle, that, guided by the studies and examples of some enlightened agriculturists, and stimulated by the high prices to which Silk had been advanced, our people of the South devoted themselves with ardour to the cultivation of the Mulberry tree and to the rearing of the Silkworm. It was then that establishments were formed which, by their importance and the cer- tainty and value of their results, would have excited astonishment at the commencement of that age.” Some time since an earnest attempt was made to disseminate the Silkworm in various parts of Europe. In 1854 some eggs reared at Assam were brought from Calcutta to Malta, not the usual kind, however, but a variety (the Bombyx Cynthia ), which feeds on the castor-oil plant. Sir William Eeed, the Governor of Malta, caused these eggs to be carefully tended. Five hundred of them were hatched and fed on the castor- oil plant. A portion of the store was sent to Pied- mont, Algiers, and the West Indies, so that trials might be made at different places. It is known, let us observe parenthetically, that the castor-oil plant suffices to give the worms the Silk -producing power ; for the Assamese make shawls, dhoties, coverlets, tur- bans, and women’s dresses with Silk thus obtained. Early' in 1855 the worms at Malta declined and died off from some cause not clearly traceable, and the 39 attempt failed so far as that island was concerned. In 1856 some of the eggs reached Prussia, and great en- deavours were made to foster the culture in Germany, Sweden, and Russia. The Silk produced by this kind of worm is not so fine as the Mulberry Silk. It can, nevertheless, he easily worked if the insect can only he made to thrive. In England, Silkworm rearing is resorted to simply as an amusement, and as an experi- ment possessing no commercial value; although ac- cording to statements in the Philosophical Transactions this climate is not unfavourable to their development. . v . J • •• 79'. I ' - ••••. ' ■ rfl ' " • •• ■ • 40 ADVERTISEMENTS. N ew silks for the season, in all the New Designs and Fashionable Colors. Rich Moire Antiques, Beautifully Watered, and Warranted all Silk, 10 yards full width to the Dress, in Black and all the New Shades, 3| guineas. Rich Pompadour, Figured and Brocaded Silks in the Richest Qualities and Newest Styles, for Morning, Evening, and Dinner Dresses, 2|, 3£, and 5£ guineas. The Full Robe of 14 yards, very wide. A Choice Assortment of Rich Chenie and Brocaded Moire Antiques, 2£, 4£, 6£ and 8| guineas, from 10 to 14 yards in each Robe, according to width. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. caul’s Church Yard. N ew shades in glace silks, in fashionable Colors for Autumnal Wear, commencing at 2/11 per yard, any length cut. A Special Quality made to Our Order, and such as we can with confidence recommend, 3/11 per yard. A very Large Assortment of the Richest Lyons Glaces, extra width, always on hand, prices 4/11 to 6/11 yer yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. S PITALFIELDS GROS GRAINS, strongly recommended for wear in a new range of New Colours, 3/9 to 4/11 per yard. Rich Lyons Gros Grains in every fashionable shade, some colors very beautiful, 4/6 to 6/11 per yard, any length cut. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. E ICH GROS DE SUEZ AND CORDED SILKS, made in very new shades, suitable for full plain skirts for Promenade or Evening wear, 3/6 per yard. The same in foreign manufacture, very rich quality, and extra width, 5/6 |per yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. ADVERTISEMENTS. 41 N ew checked and striped silks, for Autumn and Winter wear, commencing at 1/1 1^ per yard. The Rosenau and other New Colours, 2/6 per yard. New and Stylish Striped Silks in some of the most beautiful shades, 3/6 per yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. N ew black ground silks Brocaded in Colours, having a near resemblance to Embroidery, commencing at 3/11 per yard. Some very rich French Robes, beautifully worked on Gros Grain Grounds in the New Patterns and Colourings, at 4-£ guineas. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. P LAIN AND TARTAN IRISH POPLINS, A large Assortment in the Clan Tartans and Fancy Designs, at 3/6 per yard. Plain Double Poplins, extra quality, in every new shade, 4/11 per yard. Some Very Handsome Robes in Exhibition Dublin Poplins, Watered, Brocaded, or Checked, 5/9 per yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. S PITALFIELDS & LYONS VELVETS. Genuine Spitalfields Velvets in the New Colors, 4/9 per yard. Rich Colored Lyons Velvets, 7/6 per yard. Black Silk Velvets Eo. 1 3/11 per yard „ 2 4/11 „ „ 3 5/11 „ 4 6/11 „ „ 5 7/11 200 Pieces of Rich Lyons Velvets at 10/6 per yard, worth 14/. Amott and Comfany. Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. 4/3 ADVERTISEMENTS. B lack spitalfield silks. Good Durable Black Ducapes, a choice from 200 pieces, 2/6 per yard, wide width. A Superior quality at 2/llJ and 3/6 per yard, can be recommended for wear. Several Hundred Pieces of Genuine Black Grosgrains, 3/3 to 4/11 per yard, may be depended upon for strong useful wear. Rich French Gros Grains, 4/6 to 6/6 per yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. B lack drap de lyonand poult de soil. Good Bright Drap de Lyon, 3/6^ per yard. A Large Stock extra wide, soft and bright at 4/9 per yard. Very Rich Silks by Dufour Bonnet, and other eminent makers, 5/9, 6/9 and 7/9 per yard, these are unequalled for wear. Genuine Black Poult de Soie, in reliable makes, 2/11, 3/6, 4/4j and 4/9 per yard. A Splendid Assortment of French Poult de Soie, 5/6 to 6/9 per yard. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 . & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. RITISH AMD FOREIGN BLACK GLACE SILKS, commencing at 1 Guinea the Dress. A very large lot at 2/6 per yard, usually sold at 3/3. Several cases of Genuine Lyons Glaces, at the following prices according to letter. A 1/1 lj per yard. B 2/4J „ C 2/6* „ D 2/91 „ E 3/- F 3/6 G 3/11 „ H 4/4 I 4/9 J 5/- K 5/6 L 5/9 The above French Glaces were purchased some months back before the great advance, and are consequently 30 per cent, cheaper than any now to be had in the market. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul's Church Yard. adyertisem'Snts. 43 B lack moire a n t i q it e s, French and Spitalfields Manufacture. A large parcel of Rich ./Black, all ‘ Silk, Moire Antiques, very bright, and handsomely watered, 2 j Guineas the Dress of 10 yards. These are unusually cheap. Any length cut at 5/3 per yard. No. 2 is a very superior make, 'warranted all bright Italian Silk, very durable, large handsome water, 3d- Guineas 10 yards. Any length cilt 7 /4-| per yard. No. 3. Manufactured from purest Italian Boiled Silks, soft and beautifully bright, very rich water and may be fully depended upon for wear, price £4 10s. Rich Black Figured Antiques, in simple or handsome designs,, from £1 10s. 6d. to 6-1 Guineas the Rohe. AAott and Company, Silk Mercers, 1 » 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. M ourning silks a n d crapes, Good Widows’ Black Corded Silk, commencing at 3/11 per yard. A superior article strongly recommended 4/9 per yard. Very rich, double warp, ,5/6 per yard. Richest Quality made, extra width, 6/9 per yard. These are warranted to wear and are from firms of known celebrity. Black Radzemeres, Baratheas, Armures, and every descrip- tion ofsilk suitable, fop mourning wear. Black Patent Crapes in every quality from the best makers. Silk Skirts ready made, trimmed grape suitable for every grade of mourning ; always a large stock of the above on h^nd • -,- ,, ) r, Amotjt and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. 44 '- ADVERTISEMENTS. R eady-made silk skirts in glace, gros Grain and Fancy Silks, trimmed in the most prevailing and fashionable style. We have now all the new French Patterns, for the season, some of which are very handsome. We specially call your attention to the following — The Imperieuse Guineas. The Czarina 3^ The Evelina 4 K-! V";;. The Vanessa ±2 as. The Gladiateur 5 •>s The Zambezi The Rosenau n. Amott and Company, Silk Mercers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. N ew dresses for autumn & winter. Several thousand pieces of useful new materials bought under very advantageous circumstances, are being sold at 5/11 12 yards. These goods are genuine and very cheap. Good Stout Scotch Knickerbocker Winseys, 7/11 the 12 yards ; very strong and useful. The New Snow Flake Winsey, unusually pretty, in all the best colourings, 8/11 12 yards. The New Mount St. Bernard Reversible Knickerbocker, 12/9 12 yai’ds, very wide. The very best Aberdeen Knickerbockers made, both sides alike, thereby rendering them doubly serviceable, 1/6J per yard. An assortment of fifty mixtures to choose from. Amott and Company, Dress Warehousem'en, 61 & 62, St Paul’s 1 Church Yard. N EW WINSEY AND CHAMBRAY CLOTHS. Hundreds of pieces of genuine Scotch Winseys, in every color, 5fd., 7fd., 9§d., 1/0-b, and l/6£ per yard. All the new colors in the beautiful Silk Warp Winseys now so fashionable. The New Malabar wide-stripe Winseys, in every new colour. ' ■' ■■■ : . aim/; The Scarborough Chambrays, very new and fashionable, 16/9 12 yards very wide. Amott and Company, Dress Warehousemen, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. ADVERTISEMENTS. 45 W INTER NOVELTIES IN DRESSES. The New Regalia Serpentine, a pretty and new mixture, 18/9 12 yards. The New Marine Serges, a fashionable novelty for travel- ling, and a useful walking dress, 1/0| per yard. Some superior qualities, extra -wide and heavy, at 1/6 and 1/11 per yard. The Zambezi Roubaix, a new and elegant dress, 12/9 12 yards. / • New Verona Twills, 10/9 12 yards. Amott and Company, Dress Warehousemen, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. N ew silk striped and crossover fancy Dresses, 9/11 to 14/6 12 yards. Hundreds of Double Silk Alpaccas for Autumn wear, 12/9 to 1 guinea the dress. French Merinos, French Twills, Russell Cords and Stuff Dresses of every description from 6^ to 2/9 per yard. The New Thibet Cashmere, twilled the same on both sides, recommended for wear, 16/9 the dress. Amott and Company, Dress Warehousemen, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. T HE NEW UTRECHT KLARINSKA reps. A novel and beautiful fabric, £1 5s. 6d. 12 yards 30 inches wide. . < > j. 1/. [■ V ...fit ... . .. , / .Zf’ ,,, ~X The New Storm Proof Evelina Cloth, 12/9 for 12 yards, is highly recommended for wear, warmth and durability. ' This dress has been universally admired. Amott and Company, Dress Manufacturers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Churph Yard. 46 ADVERTISEMENTS. M ourning dresses. Black, Black Paramattas, Black French Twills, Black Alpaccas, Black French Merinos, Black Cords, Black Veronas, Black Serges, Black Henrietta Cloths, Black Challis, Black Baratheas, Black Llamas, Black Crapes, and all goods suitable for Mourning at a saving of 20 per cent. Amott and Company, Mourning Furnishers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. A utumn and winter made dresses. The Mount St. Bernard Travelling Dress, warm, com- fortable, durable and new, quite a favourite, 1 guinea complete. The Windsor, a Dress of considerable novelty, made from the New Snow Flake Knickerbocker, the same on both sides, and warranted to wear, £1 5s. 6d. complete-. The Regalia, a New and Useful Winter Dress, warm and stormproof, li guineas. The Biarritz Costume, quite a novelty, in all the new materials, £1 15s. 6d. complete. The Rosenau Costume. Muff, Jacket and Dress to match, this is the Greatest Novelty of the Season, and lias been more admired than any Dress we have yet produced. Price complete, 2 guineas. m dtuirm ■ Amott and Company, Dress Warehousemen, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard., N ew jACiKijjprs for autumn and winter. Our trade pas so largely increased in this department, that we have found it necessary to extend our manufactory, and we are now in a position to execute large orders for the home and foreign trade with the utmost dispatch. „ r . Several hundred House Jackets in new. and pretty styles, from 5/11 to 1 Guinea each. The New Walking Jacket Rosalinda, in cloth of a good quality, 12/9. The Imperieuse, in the new ribbpd. cloth, 16/9. The Mayonaise, a novel Jacket, handsomely braided and quite the leading fashion, 1 Guinea. The Inca, a great novelty in the new materials, £1 15s. 6cL ADVERTISEMENTS. 47 7 JACKETS FOR AUTUMN AND WINTER Continued. The New Truxillo Lamb, the newest and most fashionable Jacket ever introduced, 1-b Guineas. The Devna Snow Flake, a, warm and comfortable Jacket, very stylish, £l 15s. 6d. The New Bulgarian Beaver, a great favourite in first- class circles, £1 18s. Gd. The Rosenau Muff and Jacket, as worn by the Court in Germany; new and very elegant, complete, £2 2s. The Edelsberg Walking Jacket, a new stylish short Jacket, now the fashion on the Continent, in Rich Silk Velvet, £1 15s. 6d. and 2^ Guineas. The Violetta, a new and pretty Velvet Jacket, simple in trimming, 3 Guineas. The Princesse, a very lady-like Jacket in the Mount St, Bernard Lambskin, £2 18s. 6d., and in Rich Silk Velvet, 3J Guineas. . The Giralda, the most distinguished Jacket of the season in the New Porcupine Cloth, with Muff en suite, £3 18s. 6d. The Ischia, a new Velvet Jacket, in perfect taste — one of the favourites of the season, 41- Guineas. The Rossini, a very elegant Velvet Jacket, richly orna- mented in the newest style, 54 Guineas. The Regalia at 6 Guineas. The Alberta at 7 Guineas and the Florence at 8 Guineas, in rich foreign Velvet, trimmed with real lace ; are beautiful in the extreme, and the highest fashion of the season. Several splendid specimens in Needlework Embroidery on Jackets of Genoa Velvet, at 9-j-, 1C|-, and 12-1- Guineas. Waterproof Cloaks, Warranted Storm Proof, Large Tweed Circulars, warranted to withstand any weather, 16/9, 1 guinea and I-/,- guineas. ' t\T The New Snowden Waterproof Cloak, is a marvel of simplicity and comfort, it can be so adjusted as to L perfectly protect the entire dress and cover the bonnet without injury, price £1 15s. Gd. A mott and Company, Mantle Manufacturers, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. 48 ADVERTISEMENTS. C alicoes, sheetings, blankets, table LINEN &c. Horrock’s Long Cloths, and other good makes, by the piece, at the wholesale price. Blankets and Counterpanes of all sizes. Large Size Blankets, 10/ per pah - . Handsome Marsailles Quilts, from 10/9. Stout Linen Sheets, 1/11 per yard. Very Wide Linen Sheets, 2/6 per yard. Ditto. Three Yards wide very fine, 3/9 per yard, worth 5/. Magnificent Double Damask Table Cloths, 10/9 Napkins to match 6/9 dozen. Every Size and quality equally cheap. Amott and Company, Linen Factors, 61 & 62, St, Paul's Church Yard. T owellings, flannels, prints, &c. Genuine Huckaback Towellings, 6/9 per dozen all linen. Strong Medical Towellings, 7/11 dozen. Fine Diaper Towelling, 12/6 dozen. Saxony Flannels in every quality. Genuine Welch Flannels, from 1/0$ per yard. Colored and Shirting Flannels, 1/7$ per yard. Hoyles celebrated Prints in all the new patterns. Genuine Fast Color Print Dresses, 3/11$. Amott and Company, Linen Factors, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. ,£j AM BRIO HANDKERCHIEFS, Genuine all linen, 5/8 Cambric Handkerchiefs, 2/6$ per doz. Several dozen Boxes very fine in quality 3/11, 5/11 and 7/11 per dozen. A largs Stock of 3/4 and 7/8 Handkerchiefs, equally Cheap. Hemstitched Handkerchiefs in fine quality, 5/11 per dozen. Tucked Cambric Handkerchiefs, 7/6 per dozen. Amott and Company, Linen Factors, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. ADVERTISEMENTS. J^ARGE CONSIGNMENT FOR THE AUTUMN OF THE CITY GLOVE ! Is. 6£d. per pair, or 9s. the half doz., Wear and Fit Guaranteed. Amott and Company having made arrangements with a French Manufacturer of eminence, to introduce this superior Glove to the Public at the above moderate price, which will be found equal to those usually sold at ‘2s. 6d., a sample pair will be sent for approval upon receipt of 20 stamps. Trade mark — The City Glove. The French Kid Glove, Chamouliere, at 1/11 ^d. per pair, will be found the best value in London. The Aveline Paris Kid Glove at 2s. 6£d. per pair, will be found unsurpassed by any house in the trade Our very best French Glove, recommended for wear, 2/111 per pair. Amott and Company, Crystal Warehouses— 61 & 62, St. Paul's Church Yard. H osiery, for autumn & winter. All the leading novelties in Flannel Shirts for Gentlemen. Wool and Merino and Angola Vests, Pants and Socks. Entire Outfits for Gentlemen. Ladies and Children s Winter Hosiery in immense variety including every novelty of the season. Entire outfits for Ladies, all of the best manufacture, at the most moderate charge. Amott and Company, Outfitters, 61 & 62, St. Paul’s Church Yard. FASVliLY MOURNING. Ladies requiring General Mourning Outfits, can lie supplied at prices unequalled by any other establishment in London. Messrs. AMOTT having determinod to supply the public with GENERAL MOURNING. In every grade and description, both in the piece and ready-made articles, suitable for either deep or Contracts for Mourning executed to any extent. AMOTT & COMPANY, Silk Mercers , Mantle , Shawl , Dress and General Warehousemen , Outfitters and Linen Factors, CRYSTAL WAREHOUSES, 61 & 62, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON. PATTERNS POST FEES.