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AUTHOR: 
 
 FORD, WILLIAM 
 
 TITLE: 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 SCENERY IN THE LAKE 
 
 PLACE: 
 
 CARLISLE 
 
 DA TE : 
 
 1840 
 
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 Tord, William. 
 
 ''^ '^^'-.'Ini s.''*'°'V"^ '"'""'.r '" ^^' ^"'^" Uistrict^hLnucrofor.]:':bintended 
 as a yuide Lo strangers /fpcby William Ford ... 
 
 Secotid edition. 
 
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 and all other booksellers, |cl84u. 
 
 . laps :'|cl9\',/'^" ^" ^^^ ^''^^'''' °^' "^''^^^ ^"""^ ^°^'*^''' :^bill., tables 
 
 Td'n rn j,"'*'^^ , ^^^"^"^^ ^^^'^ (England) |xDescrip t ion and travel^rxGuide-books. 
 
 740 01 Ford s Guide to the lakes 
 
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 DESCRIPTION 01 SCENERY 
 
 IN THE 
 
 LAKE DISTRICT 
 
 m 
 
 INTENDED AS A 
 
 GUIDE TO STRANGERS. 
 
 BT THE 
 
 REV, WILLIAM FORD, B.A. 
 
 
 CAREFULLY EEVISED THROUGHOUT. 
 
 JHttiStratetf toitS M^P^ antf ^Xatti, 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 •• After all, it is upon the mind which a traveller brings along with him, 
 that his acquisitions, whether of pleasure or profit, must 
 principally depend. ' '—Wordsworth. 
 
 CARLISLE: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY CHARLES THURNAM 
 LONDON: C. TILT, 86. FLEET STREET; K. GROOMBRIDGE. 
 PANYER ALLEY, AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 1840. 
 

 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The Lake district extends over a portion of 
 the three counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, 
 and Lancashire, being bounded on the south and 
 west by the sea, which combines beautifully from 
 many elevated points with the inland scenery, and 
 occupying an area of about thirty miles in diameter. 
 It consists of large masses or clusters of mountains, 
 generally terminating in one aspiring and pre-emi- 
 Ci" nent point, with the intermediate valleys occupied 
 either by lakes and their subsidiary tarns, or by 
 winding rivers. 
 
 The chief nuclei of these clusters are, Skiddaw 
 and Blencathra, Helvellyn, Fairfield, Coniston Old 
 Man, Blackcomb, Scafell, Gable, Red Pike, Gras- 
 moor, Grisdale Pike, and the Lano^dale Pikes. 
 Many noble and commanding mountains rise around 
 these, rivalling them in height and grandeur, but 
 
 334133 
 
 .■^ . V (?«£^ 
 
 If.-«,ii5.ijij; ja&ii jftfanife ti><afatiiia 
 
11 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 • • • 
 111 
 
 still serving as large buttresses only. In the 
 presentation of endlessly-diversified forms, these 
 Mountains yield to none, however individually 
 inferior they may be, owing to their being seldom 
 seen in a detached point of view ; although, on the 
 other hand, they have thus the advantage of form- 
 ing combinations at once grand and sublime, tower- 
 ing above each other, or rising in ridges, like the 
 mighty billows of the ocean. 
 
 Their general covering is a rich green turf, 
 affording excellent pasturage to large flocks of 
 sheep. The brown of the dying fern, and the pur- 
 ple hue of the heather, add to the variety no less 
 than the beauty of the tints. On some, rocks 
 predominate ; others have their fronts torn and 
 ploughed up by bursts and speats of rain, exposing 
 and lavino^ bare the soil. 
 
 The Vallevs which lie between these masses, 
 are not formed like those of Wales, by the sloping 
 sides of the mountains meeting, so as to leave little 
 room for any thing but a terrace road and rugged 
 bed of a river ; but they wind amongst the hills 
 with intricate and abrupt turnings, and in the level 
 
 I 
 
 bottoms, either a lake quietly rests, or wooded hows 
 
 and little knolls, on which the cottages are perched, 
 
 rise out of green meadows and smiling corn fields. 
 
 It is a great recommendation also to these vales, 
 
 that each has its peculiar character, no one, taken 
 
 as a whole, bearing much resemblance to any other. 
 
 There is, however, sometimes a likeness in the 
 
 mountains, but more in their parts, considered in 
 
 detail, than in their whole composition, arising 
 
 from the similarity of their geological construction. 
 
 There is, moreover, in all the engulphed vales 
 
 somewhat of a melancholy solemnity, caused by the 
 
 grandeur of the surrounding hills, and the scarcity 
 
 of inhabitants. 
 
 The forms of some of the Lakes have been 
 
 objected to, as too much resembling those of rivers, 
 
 especially when viewed from such a height as to 
 
 embrace the whole lake at once. But this faulty 
 
 appearance vanishes when they are seen from their 
 
 shores, or from some moderate elevation, suflicient 
 
 to serve as a naturally appropriate foreground. 
 
 Then their boundary lines, boldly indented with 
 
 a2 
 
IV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 masses of rock, or gracefully varied by the allu- 
 vial promontories, created by the little streams 
 which flow into them — the steep shores crested 
 with wood and lawns of verdant green, enamelled 
 with clumps of trees, and gently sloping to the 
 
 water fill the eye and satiate the mind with the 
 
 most exquisite feelings of delight. 
 
 The Islands are neither numerous, nor on the 
 whole do they add much to their beauty ; but the 
 multitude of torrents and brooks, and the internal 
 springs, render them truly vivi lacus. 
 
 The Tarns form another peculiar feature of 
 this country. Sometimes found in the vales, but 
 more numerous among the mountains, they answer 
 the useful purpose of reservoirs, arresting the tor- 
 rents which would otherwise be precipitated in 
 destructive floods upon the valleys beneath, and 
 afi'ording a constant supply of moisture against the 
 overpowering heat of summer. Lying as they do 
 in the solitary recesses of lofty mountains, at 
 the foot of steep precipices, huge fragments of 
 rock strewed on their shores, and heath-clad pro- 
 
 i.*jf»agBW-jiaa>.»..^»«^v.^.-- ^^^jjg^gajaiaauewteMaai^^ 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 montories dividing their black sullen waters, they 
 excite in the mind feelings of melancholy and awful 
 solemnity. 
 
 The Wood consists of oak, ash, and birch, 
 elms, hazels, black and white thorns, and hollies, 
 alders and willows, and the black yew, which are 
 scattered through the district. There are, too, 
 many plantations of larches. Sycamores and 
 Scotch firs are the usual and beautiful shelter of 
 the cottages. The coppice-woods and intricate 
 hedge-rows give an idea of what the country once 
 has been, though now bereft of its leafy covering. 
 The minor shrubs and plants cannot escape the 
 eye of the tourist, much less of the botanist. The 
 bilberry in early spring, with its flowrets creeping 
 under the shade of a tree — the broom with its 
 golden blossoms — and the hardy juniper — and last, 
 though least in size, yet inferior to none in beauty, 
 the lichens and mosses — all contribute to the attrac- 
 tion of this favoured land. 
 
 Having glanced at the natural features of the 
 
 country, we will now notice those which owe their 
 
 existence to man. 
 
 a3 
 
Tl INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The Cottages stand either clustered or scat- 
 tered in groups, or singly up and down the valleys. 
 Their forms and colours generally harmonise with 
 their situations. The dwelling-houses, originally 
 white, but stained and weather-beaten, present the 
 grotesque appearance of such various additions as 
 the necessities or caprices of successive owners 
 have suggested. They may be seen placed on 
 knolls, or up the hill-sides, beyond the reach of 
 floods, and their doors protected from wintry blasts 
 by porches of slate. Above the rough slated roofs 
 (the abode of lichens, mosses, and ferns) rise the 
 low chimneys, consisting sometimes of four upright 
 little pillars, with a slate at the top and a stone to 
 keep it steady, sometimes of a square base, sur- 
 mounted by a tall cylinder. The garden is near, 
 with its flowers and pot-herbs and shed for bees ; 
 and not far off" is the mountain rill, falling into a 
 rude trough of slate, or trickling through a wooden 
 spout. 
 
 The numerous Bridges, once models of simple 
 elegance in the structure of the arches, have many 
 of them been swept away by the hand of improve- 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Vll 
 
 ^ 
 
 ment. In sequestered districts, they still form 
 interesting features in the scenery. 
 
 With regard to the Climate, this country being 
 mountainous, and mountains being the natural 
 resting-place of clouds, rain is frequent ; it comes 
 down, however, not in cold drizzling showers, but 
 heartily, and is almost always succeeded by bright 
 clear weather ; then the streams, 
 
 ** As at a first creation, and in haste 
 To exercise their untried faculties, 
 Descending from the region of the clouds. 
 And starting from thf hollows of the earth, 
 More multitudinous every moment, rend 
 Their way before them." 
 
 Days of unsettled weather, with partial showers, 
 are frequent, which, as they fly along from hill to 
 hill, alternately brighten or darken them, revealing 
 the deep coves of the mountains, and again wrap- 
 ping them in sombre gloom. 
 
 " —The clouds, 
 The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns. 
 Motions of moonlight, all come thither— touch. 
 And have an answer — thither come, and shape 
 A language not unwelcome to sick hearts 
 And idle spirits." 
 
 Of antiquities, British or Roman, and historical 
 associations, this country is rather barren. The 
 
vm 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IZ 
 
 mountains themselves, and the fastnesses which they 
 afforded, were a sufficient barrier ; and there was 
 little in the frowning masses, or in the deep, intri- 
 cate, and unexplored glens which wound amongst 
 them, to tempt invaders from the fertile vales and 
 rich alluvial plains which lie around them and along 
 the coast. A few Druidical circles are found here 
 and there, and rare, though distinct, traces of 
 Roman forts and camps are observable. The 
 Norman conquerors, however, seem to have left this 
 tract wholly to itself: all the remains of the castles 
 being found on the outskirts, as Egremont, 
 Cockermouth, Brougham, and Kendal. Even the 
 religious enthusiasm of monachism scarcely ad- 
 vanced within the shadow of the mountains, much 
 less penetrated into their secluded dales. Furness, 
 Calder, St. Bees, and Holme Cultram abbeys, are 
 all in the open country. For a long period, indeed, 
 the population must either have been extremely 
 small, or their religious interests neglected ; per- 
 haps both might be the case. As a proof of this, 
 we need only point to the large and extensive 
 parishes of Kendal, Greystoke, Crosthwaite, 
 
 ^f 
 
 *'s 
 
 Brigham, and Saint Bees, and the numerous 
 dependent chapelries, which have been erected 
 within them since the time of the Reformation. 
 These chapels present no architectural features 
 worthy of notice, and the mother churches are for 
 the most part extremely plain, partaking of the 
 progressive alteration of style from Norman to early 
 English. 
 
 With respect to the time of visiting the Lakes, 
 it is difficult to speak, so as to unite the convenience 
 and taste of tourists with the most advantageous 
 season; however, we may say that either early 
 spring or autumn affords, on the whole, the greatest 
 diversity in the colouring of the scenery. In 
 summer there is too general a green, and if the 
 weather should not prove rainy, the misty and hazy 
 state of the atmosphere prevents distant views. 
 Perhaps the best time is between the end of May 
 and the middle of June ; the days are long, the 
 weather fine, many of the trees are in full leaf, the 
 deciduous trees are breaking out, and the spring 
 flowers still linger ; then there is the early song of 
 the birds, with the fascinating call of the cuckoo ; 
 
 •>«B«iiiiBatttatiSfevatei 
 
X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and down in the intacks the lambs are joyously 
 skipping about, and bleating in all the enjoyment 
 of a new existence. 
 
 As far as possible, the Lakes should be approached 
 from their outlets ; and their eastern sides should 
 be traversed in the morning, in order to catch the 
 sunbeams lighting up the opposite pinnacles, and 
 creeping down their sides into the vales, thus gra- 
 dually unfolding the scene, as it were, and throwing 
 over the whole one mantle of rosy light. He, too, 
 who is in search of the picturesque, will leave the 
 beaten track, and travel along the rough side 
 screens, and catch the beauties of the lake as they 
 arise in smaller portions — its little bays and wind- 
 ing shores — its deep recesses and hanging promon- 
 tories — its garnished rock and distant mountains. 
 To close these introductory remarks, it may be 
 necessary to observe, that the principal towns 
 and stations contain all that is requisite for the 
 agreeable residence of individuals and families ; by 
 whom it should be remembered, that a transient 
 visit would scarcely afford time to enjoy fully 
 the effect of the scenery, and that many of the 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XI 
 
 more remarkable spots deserve a repeated inspec- 
 tion. The man of science, also, and the artist, will 
 find that by remaining a few days at each station 
 successively, they will travel with more advantage 
 and with greater pleasure to themselves, than by 
 scouring over the country in a hasty perambulation. 
 The best order in which the tour of the country 
 may be made, will perhaps be found to coincide 
 with the arrangement adopted in this work, though 
 it will, in general, be influenced by many adventi- 
 tious circumstances. 
 
A DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 LAKES IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND. 
 
 " O Nature, how in every charm supreme I 
 
 Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new ' 
 O for the voice and fire of seraphim. 
 To sing thy glories with devotion due !" 
 
 The order in which the Lakes should be visited, 
 if seen in any prescribed order at all, can be pointed 
 out much more easily than satisfactorily. Lan- 
 caster and Kendal in the south, Carlisle and 
 Penrith in the north, formerly offered the readiest 
 facilities of access to this Northern Elysium ; but 
 since the improvement of steam navigation, White- 
 haven and other ports have become equally suitable 
 as starting places. One advantage, however, 
 remains in favour of the old routes, that the direct 
 lines are better, especially for carriages, althouo-h 
 to the pedestrian this will not be a matter of any 
 great importance. 
 
 Since the greatest influx of tourists is from the 
 south of England, and the Lancashire Lakes are 
 best approached from that quarter, it may not be 
 
2 LANCASTER. — THE SANDS. 
 
 improper to commence our description, by entering 
 into the district from Lancaster. 
 
 LANCASTER 
 
 Will without doubt excite the curiosity and admi- 
 ration of the tourist. The massive towers of the 
 castle proudly overlooking the town — the church 
 — the sessions-hall — and noble bridge crossing the 
 Lune, will by turns engage the attention ; and the 
 beautiful prospects which embrace the town, the 
 river, and the sea, will give him a rich foretaste of 
 the enjoyment awaiting him amid the blue high- 
 lands which close in the distance. 
 
 From Lancaster to Coniston, the more circui- 
 tous but safer road, is by Milnthorpe to Ulverstone, 
 thence to Dalton and Furness Abbey. Bold and 
 adventurous spirits may cross 
 
 THE SANDS 
 
 From Lancaster. Over these extensive and dan- 
 gerous wastes, covered by every succeeding tide, 
 travellers are conducted by guides appointed by 
 government. The first guide, who is on foot, con- 
 ducts parties over the Keer ; the next guide, who 
 is on horseback, and is familiarly styled " the 
 Carter," leads them over the Kent. The Priory 
 of Cartmel was formerly charged with the main- 
 tenance of this guide, and had Peter' s-pence and 
 synodals allowed towards their reimbursement. It 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 !1 
 
 X 
 
 CARTMEL. Q 
 
 is now held by the Duchy of Lancaster by patent, 
 and the Carter receives twenty pounds per annum, 
 besides what trifling remunerations people choose 
 to give towards the encouragement of welcome 
 civility. The views in crossing are very extensive : 
 the principal and most interesting feature is the 
 bands themselves, bounded by the low promon- 
 tories and sloping shores that are enlivened by 
 villages, backed in the distance by the Cumberland 
 and Westmorland mountains. Mr Stephenson pro- 
 poses in his line of Railway, intended to connect 
 Preston with Carlisle and Glasgow, to carry an 
 embankment across these Sands, by which protect 
 an immense quantity of land would also be ac- 
 quired. 
 
 CARTMEL 
 
 Is a small market-town, situated on the peninsula 
 formed by the Kent and Leven rivers. The most 
 interesting object, as is usually the case in all our 
 smal towns and villages, is the church, dedicated 
 to bt. Mary, an ancient and handsome structure, 
 formerly a priory, and containing several fine 
 monuments. The town is chiefly supported by its 
 mineral spring, called Holy Well, three miles south 
 of the town, celebrated as a remedv for stone, gout 
 and cutaneous complaints. The ;ater flows from' 
 a projecting rock of limestone, called Humphrey 
 Head, and its healing qualities cause a consider- 
 able influx of visitors from the neighbouring places. 
 
 afflassm..^.. >--^.,.. as. ■ :a« j— ^ 
 
4 ULVBRSTONE. 
 
 In the neighbourhood is Holker Hall, the seat of 
 Lord G. Cavendish, in which there is a fine col- 
 lection of paintings. 
 
 Between this place and Ulverstone, the Leven 
 Sands must be crossed, which are very dangerous 
 in consequence of their constant shifting, and are 
 three miles in breadth. 
 
 ULVERSTONE, 
 
 (Vulgarly Ooston,) though ancient as regards its 
 foundation, is modern in its appearance. Neat and 
 cheerful looking, from the houses being roughcast 
 and whitewashed, it stands on uneven ground, at 
 the foot of green and sloping eminences, and is 
 the mart for the agricultural and mineral produc- 
 tions of Furness. The market-place is ornamented 
 with a modern cross of cast-iron, erected in 1821 ; 
 and there are four spacious streets, from which 
 several small ones branch ofi*. Being about a mile 
 from the Leven, a canal, cut in 1795, enables ves- 
 sels of small tonnage to come up to the town. 
 Considerable quantities of iron-ore and wrought- 
 iron are exported to different places. The church, 
 dedicated to St. Marv, stands at a little distance from 
 the town under a hill ; it was enlarged and nearly 
 rebuilt in 1804, and consists of a nave, chancel, 
 and aisles, adorned with several monuments of the 
 Dodding and Braddyll families. The east win- 
 dow represents, in painted glass, the four Evange- 
 lists, and Christ risen from the sepulchre, after 
 
 :^ 
 
 IM.LTON. 5 
 
 Rubens; the altar-piece is the " Taking down from 
 the Cross," after Sir Joshua Reynolds : the lay 
 rector, T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq., of Conishead 
 Priory, generously defrayed the expense of both 
 these pictorial embellishments. Instruction and 
 amusement are supplied to the inhabitants by 
 libraries, a theatre, and an assembly-room ; and the 
 economical habits of the poor are encouraged and 
 upheld by a savings' bank. 
 
 A short distance out of the town is Swarth Moor 
 Hall, embosomed in shady sycamores, once the seat 
 of that Judge Fell, whose widow married George 
 Fox. The Friends have a Meeting-house near it, 
 with this inscription over the door, " Ex dono 
 G. F. 1688." 
 
 On the site of the ancient priory, Mr. Braddyll 
 has raised a magnificent edifice, in a style of Eng- 
 lish architecture, tastefully agreeable to its locality 
 and name. The gardens are extensive and beauti- 
 ful, and the walks through the park are finely 
 shaded with trees, and command beautiful views of 
 the bay and the mountains. 
 
 From Ulverstone, the tourist should proceed to 
 Dalton and Furness Abbev. 
 
 DALTON 
 
 Is situated in a valley which stretches about four 
 miles from it, in one large, sweeping, and narrow 
 curve, till it opens on a noble view of Cartmel bay. 
 It is an ancient little town, and was once the capital 
 
 B o 
 
O FURNESS ABBEY. 
 
 of Furness — flourishing, from its neighbourhood to 
 the rich and mitred Abbey of Saint Mary. The 
 square tower of its castle overlooks the town, giving 
 an air of dignity to the single street, which forms 
 its spacious market-place. The church, dedicated 
 to our Lady, has, since 1825, been nearly rebuilt. 
 Dalton would, however, attract but few visitors, 
 were it not from the same cause that formerly gave 
 it opulence. The ruins of the once magnificent 
 abbey still draw the pilgrim of taste — the lover of 
 contemplation — and the artist in search of broken 
 pillars and ivied walls. 
 
 FURNESS ABBEY 
 
 Was first planted at Tulket, in Amouriderness, in 
 the year 1124, three years after which, on the 1st 
 of July, 1127, it was translated and founded by 
 Stephen, Earl of Bologne and Morton, (after- 
 wards king of England,) in the vale of Beckans- 
 gill, or the Glen of Deadly Night Shade. He 
 brought monks from Savigny in Normandy, en- 
 dowing them with the lordship of Furness and 
 other extensive privileges. They, however, having 
 fallen from their first estate of Benedictine simpli- 
 city and purity of manners, submitted, after some 
 hesitation, to a reform in their discipline, and by 
 taking the rules of St. Bernard became Cistercians, 
 the rules of which order they observed until the 
 general dissolution. It then shared the fate of its 
 compeers, when its revenues were valued at 
 
 FURNESS ABBEY. 7 
 
 £905 16s., according to Dugdale, or £966 7s., 
 according to Speed. 
 
 Its ruins consist of the conventual church, the 
 chapter-house, hall, and school-house, which oc- 
 cupy a space of about sixty-five acres, secluded in 
 a deep glen, which, nevertheless, opens out below 
 into an expanse of fertile meadows, irrigated by a 
 murmuring brook, and screened by a forest of 
 stately timber. The style of its architecture is a 
 mixture of Norman and early English. The nave 
 is supported by fine massy clustered piers, from 
 which spring circular arches of massy deep mould- 
 ings. The transept is distinguished by long ele- 
 gant lancets, and the chancel has been a specimen 
 of more decorated workmanship, having four beau- 
 tiful sedilia on its southern side. The tower, 
 low and square, has been supported by four magni- 
 ficent arches, of which only one remains entire; 
 they appear to have rested upon finely clustered 
 piers. The chapter-house, a noble room of sixty 
 feet by forty-five, had a vaulted roof formed of 
 twelve ribbed arches, springing from six pillars in 
 two rows, at fourteen feet distant from each other. 
 The roof has now fallen in. 
 
 The inside length of the church, from east to 
 west, is two hundred and seventv-five feet : the 
 length of the transept from north to south is one 
 hundred and thirty feet ; the width of the nave is 
 sixty-six feet; whilst that of the choir is only 
 twenty-eight feet. 
 
 The finest view of these interestinci: ruins is from 
 
pi 
 
 8 
 
 CONISTON WATER. 
 
 the hill opposite to the east window, through which 
 are seen, in lengthened perspective closed by woods, 
 the choir and nave. 
 
 From Ulverstone, whither the tourist must re- 
 turn, there are to Coniston two roads, uniting at 
 Lowick bridge. The road by Lowick village is 
 along a narrow vale, with hanging enclosures and 
 scattered farm-houses, from which there is a dis- 
 tant view of Coniston Water winding round the 
 mountain foot in a north-eastern direction ; a low 
 sweep of dark rocks is seen over its surface, and 
 the whole range of the fells above. The road by 
 Pennybridge presents no distant prospects, but the 
 village and bridge, the thick woods, and the Man- 
 mountain, ten miles off, form an agreeable combi- 
 nation. The river connecting Coniston Water 
 with the sea is the Crake, which joins the Leven 
 a little to the south of Pennybridge. 
 
 CONISTON WATER 
 
 Is six miles in length, and about three quarters of 
 a mile in breadth. The depth does not exceed 
 thirty fathoms, and the waters abound with char 
 and trout, the former being larger and finer than 
 those found in any other lake. Its direction is 
 from north to south, the head or northern part 
 being engulphed in lofty mountains, whilst the 
 extremity reaches into the vale below. The southern 
 shores are beautifully indented by rocky promon- 
 tories, stretching into the waters, which are mar- 
 
 CONISTON WATER. 
 
 9*^1- 
 
 gined by meadows, intersected by hedge-rows. 
 The views from the eastern side are the most 
 mteresting, excelling those from the opposite, by 
 havmg as back grounds the sublime mountains of 
 Coniston. 
 
 An excellent carriage road surrounds the water, 
 often on its margin, scarcely ever a mile from it. 
 Passing along the western side, from its foot to 
 Oxen Houses, the mountains compose agreeably 
 with the water, from a variety of stands. Several 
 rocky eminences present themselves on the left 
 from which both ends of the lake are visible ; at the 
 head, the Coniston, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite 
 fells rise up out of the water; the lofty mountains 
 about Rydal and Grasmere are seen above them • 
 and Fairfield and Hellvellyn finish the prospect! 
 In advancmg, the mountains are occasionally shut 
 out by pastures and meadows, their pretty white 
 farm-houses and cottages glistening amid ashes, 
 oaks, and sycamores. Coniston Hall, the ancient 
 famdy seat of the Flemings of Rydal, is on the 
 right hand on the edge of the lake, and althou<rh 
 very much spoiled by alterations, is a pleasing ob- 
 ject with the trees, the water, and the fells of Yew- 
 dale. The road passes the slate dep6t, throuo-h 
 low but pleasant pasture and meadow grounds, to 
 the inn at Waterhead. 
 
 The best time for traversing the eastern side is 
 the morning. The Coniston fells from above 
 Nibthwaite are in full glory, looking diagonally 
 across the water in a north-west direction. The 
 
10 
 
 ASCENT OF THE OLD MAN. 
 
 water here is embayed, Peel island stretches boldly 
 to the western shore, beyond which are green 
 fields, scattered woods and rocks, fishermen's cot- 
 tasres and farm-steads, and the awful Man mountain 
 rising over them, and shutting in the scene. On 
 this side, the middle portion of the road is the 
 least interestinof. Towards the head, Coniston 
 Hall, with its aged sycamores and groves of trees, 
 form a charming picture, amid the hedge-rows 
 and dependent ftirm-steads. From Tent Lodge, 
 once the residence of Miss Elizabeth Smith, (that 
 excellent Hebrew scholar and poetess,) there is a 
 beautiful view of the lake, with the church and 
 village of Coniston on its opposite side, backed by 
 an intermixture of the Coniston, Yewdale, and 
 Tilberthwaite mountains. 
 
 Should the tourist adopt the plan recommended 
 in the introduction, of occasionally prolonging his 
 stay at places whose neighbourhood present objects 
 worthy of such delay, Coniston Head will at once 
 detain him, since the following excursions cannot 
 but give great satisfaction. 
 
 ASCENT OF THE OLD MAN. 
 
 This almost peerless mountain rises majestically 
 on the west side of the lake, having, at its base, 
 the sweet village of Coniston, its groves and green 
 fields. On one side the ascent is gradual from 
 the base to the summit ; on the other a secondary 
 mountain rises steep and rugged, its point heaped 
 
 YEWDALE. 
 
 11 
 
 into ridges and worn into furrows, forming a scene 
 of wildness and grandeur. Between this and the 
 Man mountain is a deep valley, from which the 
 Old Man rises abruptly, and in some places per- 
 pendicularly. One half is covered with rocks and 
 stones, the other with vegetation. The ascent is 
 pleasant, safe, and comfortable. On the summit 
 are three beacons of stone— the Old Man, his Wife, 
 and Son. From it there is a complete view of the 
 fine bays and estuaries of the Lancashire, and part 
 of the Cumberland coasts—the isles of Walney and 
 Man— and in a very favourable state of the atmos- 
 phere, the Snowdonian range in Wales. The road 
 may be traced from the top to Low Water, a tarn 
 lying just beneath. Proceeding in a northerly 
 direction under the summit of the Old Man, 
 Levens Water is discovered, a tarn about a mile in 
 circumference, open only toward the south, being 
 enclosed in every other direction, and makino- a 
 beautiful picture with part of Coniston Water,°the 
 hills about Nibthwaite, and beyond, a strip of sea 
 reaching westward from the river Leven. The 
 descent to Coniston, by the side of the stream flow- 
 ing out of the tarn, is easy and picturesque. 
 
 YEWDALE. 
 
 From the inn at Coniston, a leisurely traveller 
 might have much pleasure in looking into Yewdale, 
 with Its venerable tree, which is tall and beautiful, 
 though not umbrageous, like those of Patterdale 
 
12 
 
 SEATHWAITE. 
 
 aod Lorton — and Tilberthwaite, with its hundred 
 woody knolls — returning to the inn from the head 
 of Yewdale by a mountain track, having the farm 
 house of Tarn Hows on the right. On this road, 
 Coniston Water is resplendently exhibited in its 
 whole length, with all its pretty bays and mazy 
 windings. 
 
 SEATHWAITE 
 
 Is a vale deeply environed amongst mountains of 
 great sublimity ; it has no lake, but the copious 
 stream of the " silver-bright Duddon," whose feed- 
 ers flow precipitously from the Shire stones, winds 
 amongst fields, rocks, and hills. The finest part 
 of this valley is from the chapel to Goldrill Crag. 
 Untutored nature seems to hold absolute sway ; 
 the cottages are prettily situated, some being pic- 
 turesquely adorned with trees. Its highest part, 
 called Mosedale, is tame and unmeaning. This 
 secluded valley may be approached, either by 
 Broughton, or over Walna Scar, or it may be 
 entered at its head over Wrynose and Cockley 
 Beck. The Walna Scar road leaves Church 
 Coniston, and proceeds by an easy path under the 
 foot of the Man mountain, whence there is a steep 
 craggy ascent to Goats Water, whose length is 
 half a mile, and margin stony. The road to Sea- 
 thwaite Tarn is over a pass, little inferior in height 
 to the Man ; this tarn contains on its northern side 
 a rocky island, and Fairfield may be seen over its 
 
 ESKDALE. 
 
 13 
 
 surface, between side screens formed of rocky pre- 
 cipices. By following the stream which issues out 
 of this water, the descent into the valley cannot be 
 mistaken, to Nettleslack bridge, whence to the inn 
 at Newfield by the chapel, is only a short distance. 
 The wonderful Walker officiated as clergyman for 
 a long period in this vale. A mountain track from 
 Goldrill Crag leads into 
 
 ESKDALE, 
 
 (Vulgarly Eshdale,) and the first object of interest 
 is Birker Force, perhaps the finest cascade in Cum- 
 berland ; the rocky cheeks which contain the water 
 are of the grandest dimensions. On the same side 
 of the hill, but lower down in the valley, is Stanley 
 Gill, which may be seen by application at Dale- 
 garth Hall, the ancient mansion or house of the 
 Austhwaite family, which became extinct in the 
 time of Edward III, but now belonging to E. 
 Stanley, of Ponsonby Hall, Esq., M.P. The 
 stream of this vale passes under the woody steeps, 
 on which stands Muncaster Castle, the handsome 
 residence of the Penningtons, seated on the 
 northern banks, amidst beautiful walks and gar- 
 dens, with a spacious walk, whilst the neighbouring 
 hills enrich the view with their covering of forest 
 trees. On Birkby Fell, the antiquarian may find 
 employment for his conjectural genius in researches 
 among the ruins of the city of Barnscar, the site 
 of which is an oblong of three hundred yards by 
 
 c 
 
14 
 
 BOOTLE. — SETON NUN. 
 
 one hundred yards. Silver coins have been found in 
 
 the ruins. 
 
 Ravenglass, a small market town, at the con- 
 fluence and embouchure of the Mite and Irt, con- 
 tains nothing to detain the traveller, who may 
 pursue his route to Westwater, or to 
 
 BOOTLE. 
 
 The scenery round this place is so varied and 
 interesting as to make it matter of surprise that it 
 is not oftener visited, especially by those who have 
 leisure. The church is a small structure dedicated 
 to Saint Michael, having within a monumental 
 brass plate, representing the effigy of Sir Hugh 
 Askew, " late of the seller to Edward VI," who 
 was knighted at the battle of Musselburgh in 1547, 
 and died in 1562. The font is remarkable, and is 
 of black marble, of an octagonal shape, having 
 shields, and an inscription in black letter characters. 
 
 SETON NUN. 
 
 Whilst at Bootle, the antiquarian may visit the 
 ruins of a priory of Benedictine nuns, called the 
 Nunnery of Lakelay, near Seaton Hall, which was 
 formerly the seat of Sir Henry Askew, to whom 
 the priory was granted in 1542, being then valued 
 at £12 12s. per annum. There are some remains 
 of the conventical church, with lancet-shaped win- 
 dows. 
 
 BLACKCOMBE. — HAWKSHEAD. 
 
 BLACKCOMBE, 
 
 15 
 
 Rightly so called from the gloomy heather on its 
 surface, may be most eligibly ascended from this 
 town, a very gentle ascent leading to its summit. 
 The base being at the extremity of the mountain 
 chain, on the sea-shore between Ravenglass and 
 the estuary of the Duddon, the prospect is one of 
 great variety. The sublime ocean forms one-half 
 of the circumference, with Peel Castle and the Isle 
 of Walney on the south ; in the west, the Isle of Man 
 is a conspicuous object ; the fine indented coast, 
 the bulwark of Cumberland, trends away to the 
 north; the towns of Egremont and Ravenglass, 
 Bootle and Broughton, give animation to the 
 scene ; the beauties of Duddon repose at the feet ; 
 and far in the east, a mighty assemblage of moun- 
 tains rear their gigantic heads. 
 
 It will produce an agreeable variety to make the 
 return to Broughton, and by Torver, back to 
 Coniston Water-head. 
 
 With feelings of mingled delight and regret, the 
 tourist may now leave Coniston and proceed to 
 Hawkshead, over a road wild and dreary, among 
 heath-clad rocks, and past some picturesque cot- 
 tages, beyond which is seen the town, its white 
 houses, church, and lake, and Furness Fells, mak- 
 ing a beautiful pastoral picture. 
 
 HAWKSHEAD 
 
 Stands in a warm sheltered valley, and the small 
 
 c2 
 
16 
 
 ESTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 round-topped verdant elevations give a softness 
 and beauty to this part of the lake scenery that 
 can scarcely be excelled. The town is of great 
 antiquity, and several of the houses are old, sin- 
 gular, artist-like subjects. The Old Hall of the 
 abbots of Furness is now a farm-house. The 
 market-place is pretty spacious, and has a neat 
 town-house erected a few years ago. The church, 
 dedicated to Saint Michael, appears to be of an 
 early age, and stands upon an eminence command- 
 ing a prospect of the lake and valley. The 
 Grammar-school, founded by Archbishop Sandys, 
 has produced many eminent scholars. 
 
 ESTHWAITE WATER 
 
 Is about two miles in length, and half a mile across. 
 It is encompassed by an excellent carriage road, 
 and from its unequal figure and enclosures — its two 
 peninsulas fringed with trees, shooting into the 
 lake — form exceeding good scenery. Perch, pike, 
 eels, and trout, are the fish taken in its waters. 
 A small floating island also occasionally appears to 
 astonish the beholder. 
 
 In passing round the lake, there are three re- 
 mote but distinct distances, which add grandeur to 
 the placid lake, and its surrounding open valley and 
 ffentlv swellino^ eminences — the Lanordale Pikes, 
 the Fells of Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside, 
 and Gunner's How. 
 
 Some think the most advantageous point of view 
 in which this water appears, is to the traveller 
 
 MILNTHORPE. 
 
 17 
 
 descending from the ferry over Windermere— in 
 this, the lake, Hawkshead church, and Langdale 
 Pikes, are prominent : others, again, that in which 
 part of Esthwaite Hall is seen, lands with wood on 
 each side of the lake, villages and groves of trees, 
 and the lofty mountains of Grasmere, Rydal, &c., 
 in the distance. The view which greets the eyes 
 in descending the hill from Coniston yields to 
 neither in sweetness. 
 
 From Esthwaite the tourist may either go directly 
 towards Ambleside, or through the village of Claife 
 to the Ferry inn on Windermere, and thence by 
 Bowness to Ambleside. 
 
 It is a pleasant, although not direct road to 
 Kendal by Kirkby Lonsdale, through the vale of 
 Lune. The more usual route, however, is by 
 Milnthorpe and Levens. 
 
 MILNTHORPE 
 
 Is a small but well-built market-town, on the north 
 side of the river Belo, near the estuary of the Kent. 
 The place consists principally of one lono- street 
 at the east end of which are some elegant houses 
 in open situations. Many improvements have been 
 effected in it, the most conspicuous being an ele- 
 gant chapel in the English style, consecrated by 
 the present Bishop of Chester. It is in the parish 
 of Heversham, a neat and pleasant village, about a 
 mile further on. The church was built in 1601, 
 on the site of the old one, destroyed by fire, and 
 
 c3 
 
18 
 
 LEVENS HALL. 
 
 consists of a nave and aisles, and a square tower 
 containing three bells. It was re-pewed in 1775, 
 and its interior is now remarkably neat. There 
 are several monuments to the Bellingham, Preston, 
 and other families. At the grammar-school here, 
 Bishop Watson was educated by his father, who was 
 head master. 
 
 LEVENS HALL, 
 
 Thebeautiful seat of the Honourable Fulke Greville 
 Howard, stands " amidst its tall ancestral trees," 
 on the east side of the river Kent. The hall is a 
 venerable mansion, deeply embosomed in wood. 
 The interior possesses an endless variety of excel- 
 lent carved work, the oak wainscoatings beinsr en- 
 riched with figures, emblematical devices, and 
 ornaments, which are profusely lavished on every 
 part. The gardens were laid out in the old Dutch 
 style, by Mr. Beaumont, gardener to James H, 
 and they are still kept up in the same imposing 
 style of heavy magnificence. The river enters the 
 grounds by a cascade of foaming whiteness, and 
 pursues its way amid lawns, sweetly diversified with 
 trees, whilst herds of deer 
 
 across their grcen-sward bound, 
 
 Through shade and sunny gleam ; 
 And the swan glides past them, with the sound 
 Of Kent's rejoicing stream." 
 
 As an object for the attention of the antiquary, or 
 the lovers of the picturesque, this hall is unrivalled 
 in this part of the country. Levens chapel, a new 
 
 SIZERGH HALL KENDAL. 
 
 19 
 
 building of English architecture, stands on Bea- 
 thwaite Green, its tower and spire rendering it a 
 conspicuous object. About two miles further on, 
 near the high road, is 
 
 SIZERGH HALL, 
 
 The ancient castellated seat of the Stricklands, in 
 the midst of fertile grounds sprinkled with wood, 
 which finely contrasts with the wildness and steri- 
 lity of the hill above. Built in the days of feudal 
 discord and border rapine, its strong towers give it 
 a formidable appearance ; the interior, however, is 
 elegantly furnished, and the dining-room is ceiled 
 and wainscoated with richly carved oak. The 
 Queen's room is so called from Catherine Pan- 
 having once lodged in it. 
 
 Hence the tourist will speedily reach 
 
 KENDAL, 
 
 The largest town in Westmorland, seated on the 
 west side of the river Kent, beneath a lofty scar, 
 opposite to the ruins of the ancient castle. It is 
 intersected by four principal streets, one of which 
 runs north and south, forming a busy thoroughfare 
 of one mile in length, and leading to the Lakes. 
 Ihe houses are built of limestone, capable of 
 receivmg a high polish, and covered with slate. 
 J he town, although very ancient, has now a modern 
 appearance, nearly all the old houses haying been 
 
20 
 
 KENDAL. 
 
 rebuilt, and many new streets erected during late 
 years. The whiteness of the houses is greatly en- 
 livened by the number of poplars which grow about 
 them, the long range of hanging gardens on the 
 west, and the sloping meads and plantations on the 
 east, where the Kent washes the skirts of the town, 
 and is crossed by three good bridges. The com- 
 pletion of the canal to Lancaster, in 1819, gave a 
 powerful impulse to the building spirit of the inha- 
 bitants, which still continues to extend the limits of 
 the town, and to improve its general appearance 
 and public accommodations. 
 
 The chief objects of interest are the castle, of 
 which four broken towers and part of the outer 
 wall still remain. In 1813 the foundations were 
 strengthened and skirted with a thriving plantation, 
 enriching the view from the town. This fortress, 
 the seat of the Barons of Kendal, and birth-place 
 of Catherine Parr, stands on the east side of the 
 Kent, upon a hill composed of rounded stones, em- 
 bedded in a black sandy cement. It is well worth 
 visiting, both from the beauty of its commanding 
 situation, and from the interest always excited by 
 the venerable relics of former days. Opposite the 
 castle, on the west side of the town, is Castle-how- 
 hill : on this eminence the inhabitants, in 1788, 
 erected an obelisk to commemorote the glorious 
 revolution of 1688. The White Hall, a large pub- 
 lic edifice, with handsome stone fronts, looking into 
 Lowther-street and High-gate, was built, in 1825, 
 from a design by the late Mr. Webster, architect, 
 
 KENDAL. 
 
 21 
 
 at the cost of £6000. It is one hundred and fortv- 
 eight feet long, and thirty-seven broad, having the 
 principal entrance ornamented by a receding bal- 
 cony, fronted with columns and pilasters of the 
 Ionic order, supporting a pediment. A handsome 
 circular lantern gives light to the billiard-room, 
 besides which are a library, news-room, and elegant 
 ball-room. The church, dedicated to the Holy 
 Trinity, stands in the township of Kirkland ; it is 
 one hundred and eighty feet long, and ninety-nine 
 feet broad, consisting of five aisles, divided by 
 arches, which spring from eight pillars. The tower, 
 seventy-two feet in height, is very strong, and con- 
 tains a peal of ten bells. In the church are four 
 chapels, three of which belonged to the Parrs, 
 Stricklands, and Bellinghams ; the other is the 
 proper choir of the church, though called the 
 Aldermen's choir, because they were wont to sit 
 there. The Stricklands of Sizergh Hall still use 
 their chapel as a burial-place, and several of the 
 family lie entombed under a rich marble monument. 
 This church was given by Ivo de Talebois to St. 
 Mary's Abbey, York, and granted, after the disso- 
 lution, by Queen Mary to Trinity College, Cam- 
 bridge, to which the patronage, great tithes, tithes 
 of wool and lamb, still belong. Saint George's 
 chapel fronts the Market-place and Strickland- 
 gate. Another chapel, in the lancet style, has been 
 erected and consecrated also by the present bishop 
 of the diocese. 
 
 Kendal was governed by a corporation formerly 
 
22 
 
 KENDAL. 
 
 consisting of a mayor, recorder, aldermen, and 
 capital burgesses. By the recent Municipal act, it 
 is divided into three wards, under the superinten- 
 dence of a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen 
 councilmen. By the Reform bill, the town returns 
 one member to Parliament. It was formerly noted 
 for coarse woollen goods, called Kendal cottons, 
 but goods of a finer description are now more com- 
 monly manufactured. The river Kent affords 
 plenty of water for its numerous mills and dye- 
 houses. There are also very extensive marble 
 works. As the country people for many miles 
 around attend the markets and fairs, the town thus 
 combines the character of a manufacturing place 
 with that of the centre of a rich agricultural dis- 
 trict. 
 
 Kendal can also boast of beins: furnished with 
 schools and charitable institutions, as numerously 
 and liberally endowed as any town of equal popu- 
 lation. Indeed, in this respect the county of West- 
 morland exceeds all others, owing chiefly to the 
 number of clever and eminent men who have dis- 
 tinguished themselves, and have sought to return 
 back to their native county some portion of those 
 benefits w^hich they themselves derived from it. 
 
 The road leaves Kendal by a steep ascent, having 
 the workhouse and prison on either hand. The 
 views northward, in the direction of Shap and 
 Orton, are pretty, not unlike the vale of Derby- 
 shire : southward, there is an opening through the 
 marble jaws of Underbarrow, showing the varied 
 
 KENDAL. 
 
 23 
 
 but pleasing localities of the country. Five miles 
 from Kendal is Stavely, situated in a deep and pic- 
 turesque part of the vale of Kent. Drunken Bar- 
 naby resided here in his latter days. The chapel has 
 a handsome tower and three bells. From Stavely, the 
 hills rise steeply to the north and east. The next 
 village that presents itself is Ings; the chapel, which 
 IS a neat edifice, was rebuilt in 1743 by Robert 
 Bateman, a poor lad, who being furnished with a 
 small subscription by the congregation to assist him 
 on his pedestrian journey to London, rose from the 
 lowest menial office in the house of a wealthy mer- 
 chant, to be his master's partner. The Lake of 
 Windermere shortly afterwards bursts upon the eye 
 like a fairy vision-the islands-the mazy windings 
 of the shores, clad with thick wood or skirted with 
 verdant plains. The town of Bowness with its 
 white houses, and the rocky mountains of Rydal at 
 a considerable distance, rivet the gaze of the silent- 
 ly admiring tourist. A little further is Elleray, the 
 seat of Professor Wilson, on a most desirable and 
 commanding situation ; hence, Calgarth appears 
 over trees of rich and massy foliage, beyond which 
 IS the lake, and at its head Brathay and Clappers- 
 gate, with the Coniston, Eskdale, Wastdale, Lang- 
 dale, Borrodale, Wythburn, Rydal, and Troutbeck 
 mountains. Down the lake, the eye rests upon the 
 Monarch Isle, lyingamid his dependents-the Ferry 
 House and Station on the west^Bowness on the 
 east, shutout by Heathwaite and Drummers Stile— 
 whilst the summer-house of Storrs on its lengthened 
 
24 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 promontory, with Rawlinsons Nab — are con- 
 spicuous and beautiful objects. Both ends of the 
 lake are visible at once. Rayrigg, standing in the 
 recess of a quiet bay, on a delicate elevation above 
 the lake, presents views up and down it, of extra- 
 ordinary beauty. 
 
 WINDERMERE 
 
 
 Is the largest lake, being ten miles and a half long 
 by water, and thirteen by land ; its breadth varies, 
 though the extreme does not extend two miles : 
 the same may be said of its depths which is from 
 five to thirty-seven fathoms. Its circumference is 
 about twenty-six miles, and its waters cover an 
 area of from four to five thousand acres. The 
 chief feeders are the streams of the Rothay and 
 Brathay, which unite at the landing-place. The 
 former, descending from the Raise Gap and from 
 Easedale Tarn, passes through Grasmere and 
 Rydal ; the bicipitous sources of the latter, rising 
 in Langdale Head and Wry Nose, mingle their 
 streams in Elter Water, and after dashing over 
 Skelwith Force, flow gently to the lake. A stream 
 from Troutbeck enters the lake at Calgarth Park. 
 The waters of this mere, preserve nearly the same 
 level, there being scarcely any perceptible differ- 
 ence either in wet or dry weather ; they discharge 
 themselves by the river Leven, and enter the sea 
 in the Bay of Morecambe. Trout, pike, perch, 
 eels, and char, abound in them ; and wild fowl of 
 
 4 
 
 L. ifcaihrfavrij; rniMrmfiir inifnrrarmitf 
 
'•/</ " hi/ ll'/f.Z r^tir.r 
 
WINDERMERE. 
 
 25 
 
 various kinds, as swans, geese, ducks, teal, and 
 widgeons, resort to its islands and secluded bays. 
 The islands are clustered together in the middle 
 and narrowest part of the lake. 
 
 This lake should be seen both from the shores 
 and surface. It unfolds so many beauties to the 
 sailor, owing to the size, its islands, and its having 
 two vales at the head, with the surrounding moun- 
 tains of equal dignity, which can only be seen at 
 once from the bosom of the water. The islands 
 may be explored at any time ; but Mr. Wordsworth 
 says that one bright unruffled evening should be 
 set apart for the splendour, stillness, and solemnity 
 of the upper reach, and a peep into the river, which 
 seems like a gentle overflow of the lake. The best 
 land views are on the east side, three miles south 
 of the head ; but very rich views may be obtained 
 from the following points: — First, the Langdale 
 Pikes are seen between Waterhead and Bowness. 
 Second, the islands looking down the lake, begin- 
 ning north of Skelgill, and ending near Rayrigg. 
 Third, the head of the lake^ with the greater and 
 less islands in the middle, and the Rydal mountains 
 in the extreme distance, as seen from a hill between 
 Bowness and Belman ground. Fourth, the view 
 from the station over the great island, having Ray- 
 rigg and Calgarth on the banks, with Applethwaite 
 and Kentmere mountains in the distance. Fifth, 
 the Rydal and Ambleside mountains, from between 
 Bellgrange and High Wray. Sixth, the sunset 
 view from Grathwaite, having Rawlinson's Nab 
 
 www— »ria«tiiaMiaaif- .^agi%ftlfeB^^Ja&^^JM«ab. ^,4 
 
26 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 and Storrs on the left and right, and the Troutbeck 
 mountains in the background. 
 
 The road which encircles the lake, presents very 
 noble views, but the neighbouring high grounds 
 afford more extensive and splendid ones. Its grand 
 characteristics are diffuseness, stately beauty, and 
 magnificence. 
 
 Of the numerous islands that crowd the narrow 
 part of the mere, we shall only mention two: 
 Lino-holm, which is two miles from the Ferry 
 House, a small rocky island covered with wood, 
 and presenting some fine views; and Curwen's 
 Island, or Belle Isle, a very sequestered spot, 
 belonging to H. C. Curwen, Esq., of Workington 
 Hall. It contains about thirty-six acres, is nearly 
 two miles in circumference, and there is a gravel 
 walk round its margin, on which strangers are 
 allowed to walk. Its figure is oblong, the shores 
 irregular, with tiny creeks and retiring bays, in 
 which the weeping willow droops its elegant 
 branches. Great variety of forest trees and other 
 wood adorn the island— the massy Scotch fir, 
 the noble chestnut, and the embowering plane, 
 with ancient thorns and yews. The house is of 
 a circular form, and was built by Mr. English, a 
 former proprietor of the island. The views most 
 worthy of notice are— First, Rayrigg, with the 
 Lady and Hen Holm Island — the wooded en- 
 closures up to Elleray, Applethwaite, and Kentmere 
 —Hill Bell and High Street closing in the back- 
 ground. Second, the Ferry House and Station, with 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 27 
 
 the hilly ground above Grathwaite. Third, north- 
 ward up the lake to the Rydal mountains. Here 
 Dove Nest is a pretty object, and the Pike of Wans- 
 fell is seen rising over Calgarth, which is on the 
 banks of the water. 
 
 Windermere, being so extensive, cannot be 
 thoroughly examined from any one point ; the 
 Ferry Inn and Bowness, Low Wood Inn and 
 Ambleside, are the most favourable resting-places, 
 from whence its varied scenes of beauty, grandeur, 
 and sublimity, may be contemplated. Newby 
 Bridge, also, is a delightful situation at the foot, 
 seated under a wooded hill of considerable eleva- 
 tion. The Leven is a noble stream, and higher up 
 above the bridge, gradually widens in sportive 
 curves and charming little bays. At Fellfoot, en- 
 compassed by majestic woods, the Coniston moun- 
 tains peer above the lake. Hence the road skirts 
 Gunner's How past Trover Wood, a little beyond 
 which Curwen's Island appears as united to both 
 sides, and thus cutting the lake into two parts; 
 beyond is Calgarth, and the distant mountains of 
 Fairfield, Scandale, Coldale, and Hill Bell. Nearer 
 the spectator stands Storrs Hall on a far stretching 
 promontory, and on the opposite side the pretty 
 projecting woodlands of the Ferry-Point and Berk- 
 shire Islands. The scenery from Bellman Ground 
 exceeds that from any other place south of the 
 Island. Storrs Hall, the Rectory, the Ferry 
 House, the little islands, Bowness and the elegant 
 winding shores up to Ambleside, and the Rydal 
 
 d2 
 
 5.''f-jtawte»'*aia»Miaaiiatwaiaaitjitj.s.AH" am., jw.-- ...^ ■ 
 
FERRY HOUSE. 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 BOWNESS. 
 
 mountains shutting in the scene, engage the atten- 
 tion, and excite the admiration and mute astonish- 
 ment of the traveller. 
 
 BowNESS — (BuUness) 
 
 Is a small market-town, charmingly placed on the 
 east shore of Windermere. It is the chief port on 
 the lake, possessing boats employed both in fishing 
 and in the exportation of roofing slate. From its 
 admirable position, it is much frequented by 
 tourists, who find excellent accommodation, as well 
 in lodgings as in two inns, the White Lion and the 
 Crown. Pleasure-boats and carriages for excur- 
 sions are also to be obtained at moderate prices. 
 The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a large 
 white edifice, with a low square tower. It consists 
 of a nave, separated from its aisles by pointed 
 arches, springing from piers unadorned by capitals, 
 and the roof 
 
 " — Upheld 
 By naked rafters intricately cross'd, 
 Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove. 
 All wither'd by the depth of shade above/* 
 
 The east window of the chancel is large, and filled 
 with fine old painted glass, brought from Furness 
 Abbey ; by its present arrangement, however, the 
 eff'ect is very diminished. Among the monuments 
 are some belonging to the Philipsons, the ancient 
 possessors of Calgarth. By far the most interest- 
 ing is that to Dr. Watson, late bishop of Llandafi*, 
 who lies buried at the east end of the churchyard. 
 
 with the following plain inscription : — " Ricardi 
 Watson, Episcopi Landavensis, cineribus sacrum : 
 Obiit Julii 1, A.D. 1816: iEtatis 79." The 
 rectory is on the banks of the lake, along whose 
 shore the glebe land extends to some length. 
 
 On the opposite promontory, almost hid amidst 
 the leafy shade of sycamores, stands 
 
 THE FERRY HOUSE. 
 
 He who cannot delay to see Coniston, should cross 
 to this spot. Hence are commanded three views, 
 widely distinguished from each other, yet all noble. 
 First, the prospect looking down the lake, by Berk- 
 shire Island and Storrs Hall to Rawlinson's Nab, 
 is one of amenity and richness. Second, in a 
 north-easterly direction over the great island, the 
 eye rests upon Hill Bell ; below, but beyond two 
 promontories stretching, one from the island, the 
 other from the Rector's land, appears the water, a 
 single island set like a gem in its crystal surface, 
 and the green slopes of Rayrigg over it. Third, 
 looking north from the place where the carriage 
 boats are moored. Crow Holm rises out of the 
 water on the right — Curwen's Island extends 
 beyond it — opposite to which is Furness Fell — 
 the island seen in the midst is one of the Lily of 
 the Valley Islands— and the Pike of Wansfell, with 
 Dove Nest below, is overtopped by ScanJale Fell 
 and the Rvdal mountains. 
 
 On a hill above the Ferry is the Station House ; 
 
 d3 
 
 VjmSiA'ShX&i 
 
 t.A ■f.afeduWiSUj.a^xsrfa.aaiiacw.iai iHiu^iiii • 
 
 
30 
 
 FERRY HOUSE. 
 
 its windows are filled with glass, coloured so as to 
 represent the landscape as it appears at the differ- 
 ent seasons of the year. The lake is here seen at 
 your feet, Curwen and all the islands studding its 
 waters — the wooded parks and uplands of Trout- 
 heck and Applethwaite— Hill Bell and High Street 
 terminating the prospect. The view to the south- 
 ward is a great contrast to this. Here the promon- 
 tories of Rawlinson's Nab and Storrs Hall push 
 boldly into the waste of waters, whilst the well- 
 wooded but moderate heights of Gunner's How 
 and Fell Foot close the distance. 
 
 The roads from Bowness and Kendal join a 
 little beyond what is called Miller Ground, whence 
 there is a view of Windermere and the Pikes of 
 Langdale, which is one of the richest in nature. 
 The lake is visible all the way from Bellegrange 
 to its head, with its far winding bays and groves. 
 Between the eye and the water lies Calgarth. On 
 the opposite shores. High Wray and the buildings 
 at Brathy give animation to the scenery. The 
 Pikes of Langdale— the Eskdale, Wastdale, and 
 Borrowdale mountains— finish this splendid exhibi- 
 tion. On the left is Calgarth Park, built by Bishop 
 Watson, on the site of the ancient seat of the 
 Philipsons. The greater part of the road to Am- 
 bleside, along the borders of the water, is shaded 
 by wood of fine growth, comprising oak, sycamore, 
 beech, chestnut, and ash, and is rich in a diversity 
 of grand and pleasing scenery. Should the pedes- 
 trian be tempted to step aside and ascend the emi- 
 
 LOW WOOD INN. 
 
 31 
 
 nences near the road, every field he will find to 
 add a fresh charm, and amply repay his additional 
 toil. 
 
 LOW WOOD INN 
 
 Is delightfully situated on a small bay, over which 
 are beheld Brathay Park and the Pikes of Great 
 Langdale, Loughrigg Fell, and Fairfield; while 
 southward, the lake steals quietly away between 
 sloping shores adorned with woodlands and farm- 
 steads, till the view is stopped by Cur wen's Island. 
 By those who love retirement, this inri will be 
 chosen as a place of temporary abode, more espe- 
 cially since the excursions generally made from 
 Ambleside can be equally as well accomplished 
 from hence. Beautiful views towards each extre- 
 mity of the mere may be enjoyed from the fields 
 above the inn and the lane leading to Troutbeck, 
 a mountain valley, distinguished by the Fells at its 
 head— the picturesque remains of cottage architec- 
 ture — and the fine foregrounds formed by the river 
 at every step. This stream rises in High Street, 
 flows over a very stony channel down to the park, 
 whence it glides one while quietly, at another, 
 chafing with foam, till it is lost in the silent depths 
 of Windermere. The village is half a mile long, 
 wildly scattered on the side of a steep hill, at the 
 foot of which are the chapel and school. The 
 views of Windermere are enchanting, and Calgarth 
 on its shores appears to the greatest advantage. 
 
32 
 
 AMBLESIDE. 
 
 In visiting this valley, it is best to commence at 
 Troutbeck Bridge and descend to Low Wood. 
 
 In proceeding from Low Wood Inn, the tourist 
 leaves the shores of the lake at Waterhead, where 
 the boats belonging to Ambleside are moored. 
 
 AMBLESIDE, 
 
 A small market-town, romantically situated in the 
 vale of Brathay, and half-encircled by a range of 
 stately mountains. It is a mile north of the head 
 of Windermere, and is built in pleasing irregularity 
 on the side of a hill, commanding prospects of the 
 vale, the parks of Rydal, Brathay, and Winder- 
 mere, amongst which the various outlets and 
 approaches wind interestingly, detaining the tourist 
 at every step by new combinations and unexpected 
 beauties. Excellent fare can be had at the Salu- 
 tation, Commercial, and White Lion inns, and in 
 lodgings. From its central station, the town is 
 frequently made the head-quarters of tourists for a 
 considerable time, as within the compass of seven 
 miles are the following lakes : — Windermere, Esth- 
 waite Water, Elter Water, Coniston, Rydal Water, 
 Grasmere, and Ulles Water. It was formerly the 
 site of a Roman station ; ruined walls and traces of 
 fortifications are discernible, and armour and coins 
 have been found. Most of the houses have been 
 rebuilt or altered ; the old market-house, also, 
 which was supported on pillars and galleried round, 
 shared the same fate in 1796, so that the town now 
 
 STOCKGILL FORCE. 
 
 33 
 
 wears a modern appearance, and although deprived 
 of many of those delightful studies which enamour- 
 ed the artist Green, possesses more of internal 
 comfort. The chapel, standing at the north end 
 of the town, on an elevated station, was rebuilt in 
 1822, by a rate; it had been made parochial in 
 1675 by the Bishop of Chester. The town also 
 reaps the benefit of a well-endowed grammar- 
 school, founded by John Kelswick in 1721. 
 
 Such is the suitable position of Ambleside, that 
 several short walks and excursions may be taken ; 
 and these again can be agreeably varied by others 
 of greater distance and requiring longer time. 
 
 STOCKGILL FORCE 
 
 Rises in the Screes on Scandale Fells, not far from 
 Kirkstone, and divides the town of Ambleside. The 
 finest part of the stream is between the Woollen 
 Mill and the Force. In looking up the river from 
 its bed, the Pike of Wansfell forms a fine apex. 
 Proceeding along the edge of a chasm for a short 
 distance, the Fall bursts upon the sight of the 
 visitor, when standing on the brink of the preci- 
 pice opposite to it, and at a point midway between 
 the top and bottom. Its height is about one hun- 
 dred and fifty feet, and it is divided at the summit 
 by a huge crag into two streams, which again unite 
 before they are finally precipitated into the basin 
 below ; from which the waters rush along a gill, 
 luxuriantly adorned with rock and wood, and wind- 
 
34 WANSFELL AND SKELGILL. — FAIRFIELD. 
 
 ing through it for the space of a mile, to which the 
 Langdale Pikes form a fine distance. On the 
 bridge below stands a summer-house, the only relic 
 of Ambleside Hall, now hid by other buildings 
 from the eye of the stranger. 
 
 Scandale Beck, on the road to Keswick, presents 
 some pretty cascades, especially if the walk be 
 extended up from Scandale Bridge. The Nook 
 Bridge and the Gale are equally inviting. 
 
 W^ANSFELL AND SKELGILL. 
 
 Mountain excursions of moderate elevation, and 
 almost without fatigue, may be made to Skelgill 
 and Wansfell Pike, whence the localities of Amble- 
 side are displayed as on a map, and thus the 
 stranger is enabled to form a better idea of his posi- 
 tion with regard to the mighty masses around him. 
 Windermere, also, is seen in a new point of view. 
 
 FAIRFIELD. 
 
 The attainment of the top of this mountain pre- 
 sents a lengthened excursion, attended with more 
 of enterprise and fatigue ; it is two thousand nine 
 hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, 
 closing on the north the Rydal domains, whence it 
 should be ascended, in a course directed on the left 
 to Nab Scar. In a circular round from this point, 
 Windermere, Blelham Tarn, Esthwaite Water, 
 Coniston, Elter Water, Rydal Water, Grasmere, 
 
 LOUGHRIGG FELL AND TARN. 
 
 35 
 
 and Easedale Tarn, the river Rothay in all its 
 windings, Morecambe Bay, Milnthorpe Sands, and 
 the Yorkshire mountains ; and, lastly, the moun- 
 tains about Eskdale, Borrodale, Wastdale, and 
 Ennerdale, are visible. From the highest point, 
 Graysdale Tarn and Ulles Water, Penrith, and 
 Crossfell, are discernible; and there is a grand 
 rocky view into Deepdale and Hartshope succes- 
 sively. 
 
 LOUGHRIGG FELL AND TARN. 
 
 No fell unfolds scenes so unequalled from such 
 a moderate elevation, with so little fatigue, as 
 Loughrigg, lying to the west of Ambleside. Leav- 
 ing the Market-place, the pedestrian proceeds to 
 Miller Bridge, from whence there is a fine retros- 
 pective view of the town, thence to Ivy Crag, and 
 so to the top, which is one thousand and fifty feet 
 above Windermere. A considerable part of the 
 Queen of Lakes, as well as Rydal and Grasmere, 
 may be seen by traversing its diiferent points, 
 together with portions of Coniston and Thirlmere, 
 and the Tarns of Blelham and Elter Water! 
 Loughrigg Tarn lies under the west end of the 
 Fell, having a margin of firm green meadows, reeds, 
 and lilies, adorning its tiny bays, which are bor- 
 dered here and there with gravel, whilst a small 
 stream issues out of it. A few cottages are reflected 
 m Its bosom, above which rise rocky and barren 
 steeps, intermingled with wood; and the solemn 
 
36 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 37 
 
 Pikes of Langdale overlook the low, cultivated 
 ridge of land, that forms the northern boundary of 
 this small, quiet, and fertile spot. 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 " We started — and he led towards the hills, 
 Up through an ample vale, with higher hills 
 Before us, mountains stern and desolate. 
 But, in the majesty of distance, now 
 Set off, and to our view appearing fair 
 Of aspect, with serial softness clad, 
 And beautified with morning's purple beams." 
 
 The chief excursion, and one accomplished with 
 most advantage from this station, is that to the two 
 Lano-dales, and the Pikes. The best views are 
 looking up the vale, that is, in a westward direction. 
 You pass through Clappersgate, leaving Brathay 
 Bridge on the left, the river flowing towards you, 
 flanked on either side by the Tilberthwaite and 
 Langdale mountains. Having proceeded two miles, 
 the road divides, the one on the right to Great 
 Langdale, the left, which you pursue leading to 
 Little Langdale, by Skelwith Bridge. Here there 
 is a superb view of Elter Water with Lingmire. 
 
 A little above the bridge is Skelwith Force, re- 
 markable not so much for the height as for the 
 body of water which forms the spectacle. The 
 river is here contracted between a chasm in the 
 bed of rocks, forming a crooked trough, into whose 
 abyss the waters are flung from a height of twenty 
 feet ; the Pikes again compose fine distances. 
 
 The next and perhaps the finest fall, is Colwith 
 
 I 
 
 Force with Wedderlamb, forming a grand object as 
 beheld from the bed of the river. A stupendous 
 crag rises out of the river ; the glen sinks below to 
 the depth of a hundred feet, and the water rushes 
 down in four leaps, the last being the deepest, 
 sending 
 
 " From hollow clefts up to the clearer air 
 A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun, 
 Varies its rainbow hues." 
 
 The neighbourhood is uncommonly grand and 
 beautiful. 
 
 Little^ Langdale is parallel to Great Langdale, 
 from which it is separated by Lingmire. It is of 
 higher elevation, and is distinguished by mountain 
 wildness and seclusion, the rugged hills being clad 
 with heath and furze. The entrance into° it is 
 narrow and crooked, and through a profusion of 
 birch and hazel, which conceal the river that issues 
 out of the Tarn, having the Great and Little 
 Carrs as its background. Further on to the left 
 is Fell Foot, an ancient inn, on the Old Bell road 
 which led from Kendal to Whitehaven over Hard 
 Knot and Wry Nose. 
 
 Blea Tarn, the next object, is on the heights 
 between the Langdales, and is enriched by the 
 Pikes, Bowfell being in direct prospect, 
 
 " A quiet, treeless nook, with two green fields, 
 A liquid pool that glitter'd in the sun. 
 And one bare dwelling, one abode, no more !" 
 
 At Wall End you look down into a scene com- 
 posed of extraordinary grandeur and sublimity ; a 
 circuitous and level bottom of rich enclosures 
 
 B 
 
38 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 and wood straggling up the sides of the mountains, 
 amidst which meanders the mountain-born Brathay, 
 fed with the dews and storms of heaven. From 
 Wall End the road passes across the valley to Mill 
 Beck, whence is commenced the ascent of the 
 Pikes. 
 
 In a fissure of the mountain, and enclosed by 
 gloomy rocks, is Dungeon Gill, a considerable 
 stream tumbling from a lofty precipice, between 
 sides of impending and perpendicular rock, into a 
 deep dark basin. From the summit a fragment of 
 rock is suspended, forming a rude arch ; the 
 stranger will admire, but shudder, to pass this na- 
 tural bridge. 
 
 Stickle Tarn is a circular piece of water in the 
 bosom of the mountain, having soft turf on three- 
 fourths of its margin, and reflecting in its calm 
 surface the dark and towering crags of Pavey Ark, 
 which rise from its brink, and are perhaps the most 
 magnificent range of rocks in the country : a good 
 point to view them from is the outlet of the lake. 
 
 The summit of the mountain is crowned with 
 three lofty pikes, all composed of perpendicular 
 rocks, and seeming like pillars to support the hea- 
 vens. 
 
 " — There the sun himself, 
 At the calm close of summer's longest day, 
 Rests his substantial orb ; between those heights. 
 And on the top of either pinnacle, 
 More keenly than elsewhere in night's blue vault. 
 Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud." 
 
 They appear to rise not far from each other, but 
 it takes many a weary and toilsome step to travel 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 39 
 
 from one to the other. The north-west pike is the 
 lowest, but most regular and conical ; the south is 
 more broken and rugged ; and the east, which is 
 the highest and most easy of ascent, overlooks the 
 rest, and all these mountain regions, rising in 
 masses, that are beheld with somewhat of terror. 
 Langdale Head and Scafell Pikes are quite close. 
 On the right are Great End in Borrowdale, Sea- 
 toller in Yewbarrow, Great Gable in Wastdale, 
 Glaramara and Rosthwaite Cam, Grasmire, 
 Grizedale and Causey Pikes, Lord's Seat, and the 
 distant coasts of Cumberland and Scotland. In a 
 northern direction are seen Skiddaw, and on the 
 left of him, Helvellyn, Fairfield, and Wansfell, 
 Ambleside, with Windermere, Loughrigg Tarn, 
 Elter Water, and Esthwaite Water. 
 
 After descending, the slate quarries at Thrang 
 Crag are on many accounts worthy of inspection. 
 The dependent chapel of Langdale, at the foot of 
 Silver How, is small and neat, adapted to its con- 
 gregation. 
 
 Elter Water Tarn has low marshy shores, fre- 
 quently inundated by its waters ; seen in conjunc- 
 tion with Windermere, it, however, forms a beauti- 
 ful picture. From the chapel, the tourist may 
 return either by Loughrigg Tarn to Ambleside, or 
 round Loughrigg Fell, along the terrace road of 
 which there are sweet views of Grasmere and 
 Rydal ; both which waters should be seen from their 
 western sides, although the carriage road, along 
 their eastern banks, is replete with beauty. The 
 
 E 2 
 
^ 
 
 40 
 
 LANGDALE AND THE PIKES. 
 
 inspection of the western sides ought to fonn a 
 separate journey, the return to Ambleside being by 
 the east. 
 
 Bidding adieu to Ambleside, highly gratified 
 with it and the neighbouring scenery, we shall now 
 proceed on the direct route to Keswick. 
 
 The road from Ambleside is adorned with beau- 
 tiful trees, amongst which the Lord's Oak is con- 
 spicuous. On the right is Rydal Hall, the large 
 mansion of Lady le Fleming, embosomed in a shady 
 park, on a gently rising eminence at the junction 
 of two vales ; behind it rise the steep and lofty 
 Fairfield, and the ravine of Rydal Head. The 
 Rydal Waterfalls are shown by a domestic ; the 
 stranger is introduced into a summer-house, from 
 which he suddenly beholds the Lower Fall, forming 
 an enchanting garden-scene. He is then conduct- 
 ed amidst groves of oaks, through whose opening 
 glades peeps are obtained of the huge mountains 
 above, and the sweet vale below, to the Upper Fall, 
 which is fine in all seasons ; the stream is much 
 contracted, and precipitated down a perpendicular 
 wall of rock into a dark basin. From the bed of 
 the river at the top of the lower cascade, this fall 
 is a scene of considerable interest. The houses at 
 Rydal are prettily covered with ivy and other 
 creepers, and the old-fashioned, picturesque chim- 
 neys are retained. It is now also ornamented by a 
 tasteful little chapel, of the English style of archi- 
 tecture, and its hexagonal tower finished with pin- 
 nacles, is a beautiful object from various points. 
 
 
 
 RYDAL WATER. — GRASMERE. 
 
 41 
 
 Above the hall is Rydal Mount, the residence of 
 WilHam Wordsworth, Esq., looking down the vale 
 of Ambleside and Windermere on the one side, and 
 of Rydal on the other ; the house and gardens are 
 in the best taste, the latter having been laid out by 
 the poet himself. Ivy Cottage on the road side, is 
 the beautiful creation of the sportive genius of Dr. 
 Tilbrooke, formerly a fellow of Peter House. 
 
 RYDAL WATER 
 
 Is a small lake, two miles from Ambleside, about 
 one mile long and half a mile broad, and surround- 
 ed closely on all sides by lofty fells. The shores 
 are picturesque, having a rocky promontory here 
 and there, and bays in which the reeds wave over 
 the floating flowers of the lily. Two wooded islets 
 add to its beauty. Pike, perch, eel, and trout, are 
 found in its waters, which have been at difierent 
 times the graves of rash and thoughtless skaters. 
 
 At the White Moss Slate Quarry, the new and 
 old roads to Grasmere separate. Pursuing the 
 new road, which winds through a narrow defile, 
 having the Rothay on the left hid amidst a profu- 
 sion of underwood, a sudden bend introduces the 
 traveller to the Dale and Lake of Grasmere, on 
 whose shores the road lies for a small distance. 
 
 GRASMERE. 
 
 This water is oval, and lies at the south end of 
 
 an oval valley. Its dimensions are a mile one wav, 
 
 e3 
 
42 
 
 GRASMERE. 
 
 and half a mile the other. In its centre is a single 
 island of verdant pasture, rising boldly from the 
 water in a fine swelling form. Being completely 
 encircled by mountains^ a view of Grasmere from 
 any direction is varied with bold and ennobling 
 mountains, but those are the most awakening which 
 include ihe church. There are two inns in the 
 dale, so that the tourist may stay here for a while, 
 and examine its component features in detail. 
 
 The finest views are from the terrace road under 
 Loughrigg. Here the lake is at your feet, with 
 the church and village scattered amid green enclo- 
 sures at the base of Butterlip How. On the left 
 are the beetling rocks and woods which ornament 
 the front of Silver How ; on the right, Fairfield 
 and Seat Sandal ; and in front Helm Crag, with 
 its rugged top, surnamed the Lion and Lamb ; 
 beyond which is seen the road stretching through 
 bare enclosures up to the Raise Gap. The descent 
 from Langdale gives very nearly the same features, 
 and, if I am not mistaken, has been thus felicitouslv 
 described by the master-hand of Wordsworth : 
 
 " — So we descend ; and winding round a rock. 
 Attain a point that showed the valley ; stretch'd 
 In length before us, and not distant far, 
 Upon a rising ground, a grey church-tower, 
 "Whost^ battlements were screened by tufted trees. 
 And, tow'rds a crystal mere, that lay beyond 
 Among steep hills and woods erabossomed, flow'd 
 A copious stream with boldly-winding course ; 
 Here traceable, there hidden — there again 
 To sight restor'd, and glittering in the sun. 
 On the stream's bank, and every where, appeared 
 Fair dwellings, single or in social knots, 
 Some scattered o'er the level, others perch'd 
 On the hill side, a cheerful quiet scene, 
 Now in its morning purity array'd." 
 
 GRASMERE. — EASEDALE. 
 
 43 
 
 The approach from the old Ambleside road ex- 
 tends the prospect into Easedale. The views on the 
 descent from the Raise Gap, which are in the oppo- 
 site direction, were much admired and most charm- 
 ingly described by the poet Gray. There is a most 
 extensive view in the approach from Patterdale, in 
 which this laTie forms the foreground, and Coniston 
 Water and the Duddon Estuary gleam in the dis- 
 tance. The church and the rectory stand near it, 
 nearly in the centre of the dale, the former being de- 
 dicated to Saint Oswald, and consisting of a nave, 
 with aisles, south porch, and a chancel. The tower 
 is square and embattled. The doors are ornamented 
 with old iron scroll work. The interior is dark and 
 gloomy, occupied by oaken benches, and the floor 
 strewed with rushes, which are renewed amid much 
 rejoicing every summer, when a queen of the sports 
 is appointed. The painter. Green — indefatigable 
 and praise-worthy artist! — lies buried in this church- 
 yard, towards which he seems to have had some 
 kindly predisposition. " The church-yard of Gras- 
 mere, shaded by aged pines and sycamores, is inte- 
 resting to those who court silence and solitude. 
 Some charitable stranger has lately added the 
 mournful yew, a tree sacred to such situations." 
 
 The Red Lion, which stands about one hundred 
 yards from the church, is a good situation for those 
 who desire to make tours into 
 
 EASEDALE. 
 
 Coldale Fell separates the Easedales. Passing 
 
44 
 
 EASEDALE. 
 
 over Butterlip How, a little rocky and wooded hill 
 north of the inn, proceed to Goody Bridge. Here 
 the road rises into this quiet dale, and affords a 
 glorious panorama of the surrounding vale, embrac- 
 ing the lake, church, and neighbouring dwellings, 
 with Loughrigg behind. Steel Bridge is an artist- 
 like subject ; and Sour Milk Gill and Coldale Fell, 
 as backgrounds to a bridge, compose admirable ob- 
 jects for the pencil. This water runs out of Ease- 
 dale Tarn, one of the largest of the elevated lakes ; 
 Coldale Fell shelters it from the north and west, 
 and Blakerigg appears over the water's head, when 
 viewed from its foot ; whence also there is a pretty 
 peep at Hollin Grove, backed by Nab Scar and 
 Wansfell. It will be pleasanter to return the same 
 way back, than to pass forward, as may be done 
 by pedestrians, either into Borrodale or Wythburn 
 Head. 
 
 The Swan inn stands on the high road, beyond 
 the lake and house in which Mr. De Quincy took 
 up his residence. From hence the road is a long 
 and gradual ascent, mounting in mazy serpentines 
 to the Raise Gap ; the steepest part of the road is 
 from Highbroad Rain, through the turnpike, to a 
 long dreary pass, through which the wind sweeps in 
 piercing blasts. On the left brawls along the 
 Rothay or Raise Beck, over which towers the naked 
 Helm Crag. On the right of the Raise Gap, is a 
 stream that divides the counties of Cumberland 
 and Westmorland, and in wet weather presents a 
 number of fine falls. 
 
 DUNMAIL RAISE. — HELVELLYN. 
 
 45 
 
 DUNMAIL RAISE 
 
 Is a Cairn or Burrow of stones, marking the place 
 where the last king of Cumbria was defeated by the 
 Saxon Edmund, who put out the eyes of the son 
 before the father's face, wasted his kingdom, and 
 then gave it to Malcolm, king of Scotland, to hold in 
 fealty. The wall dividing the counties is built over 
 it, and the road is partly cut through it. This gap 
 is seven hundred and twenty feet above the sea. 
 
 On the left are Steel Fell, the green cove of 
 Wythburn Head, and Nab Scar, and on the ri^ht 
 are the bulwarks and buttresses of Helvellyn. Im- 
 mediately before the spectators are the chapel of 
 Wythburn and inn, then the lake, and Skiddaw 
 closing the end of the valley, which from the almost 
 utter absence of wood, wears a cold and desolate 
 aspect. The Horse Head inn is an excellent rest- 
 ing place, and a guide, at a moderate charge, can 
 be obtained here for the ascent of Helvellvn, which 
 is most easily accomplished from this place. Whilst 
 the luncheon is preparing, let the tourist take a look 
 at the little chapel on the opposite side of the 
 road ; it is an advanced post of Crosthwaite Church, 
 and is one of five similarly situated. The building 
 does not claim much attention, being small yet com- 
 modious ; but unfortunately for the dalesmen, the 
 chapel-yard is unconsecrated, and thus one source of 
 useful and heart-softening reflections, arising from 
 the sight of their relations' graves, is closed to them. 
 
46 
 
 HELVELLYN. 
 
 LEATHES WATER. 
 
 47 
 
 At the very beginning of the ascent, there is a 
 beautiful cascade on the stream which is dashed 
 down the steeps of Whelpside. The summit can- 
 not be seen from the road, neither is the mountain 
 Itself seen anywhere to so much advantage as some 
 others, from being crowded in on all sides by lofty 
 compeers. Striding Edge and Swirrel stand on 
 the east, Whelpside and Dolly Waggon Pike, with 
 the Middle Tongue, on the west, embracing many 
 noble eminences, beautiful villas, and sweet habi- 
 tations, within their shadows. The ascent is long, 
 but neither difficult nor dangerous. Arrived at the 
 top, a vast tract of mountainous country is over- 
 looked ; the most prominent object, and tiiose seen 
 with the greatest distinctness, are the lofty moun- 
 tains as they point towards the sky ; behind these 
 vast masses are hid many interesting scenes, while 
 beneath and beyond are vistas of variously mingled 
 landscapes, whose parts are indistinctly seen. Look- 
 ing north, Skiddaw and Saddleback appear over 
 Whiteside and Styx ; at its foot are Keppel Cove 
 Tarn and Red Tarn, on the edge of which 
 Cough's remains, after having been watched over 
 by his dog, «« through three months' space," were 
 accidentally found by a shepherd ; the middle and 
 lower reaches of Ulles Water and Place Fell on its 
 borders ; Angle Tarn and the Calcades falling to- 
 wards Hartshope, which cannot itself be seen ; and 
 then the tops and ridges of St. Sunday Crag and 
 Dolly Waggon Pike. Far away to the south, 
 
 Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, the Lan- 
 caster Sands, and Yorkshire mountains, fill the 
 horizon ; in the west, the Langdale Pikes and Wry 
 Nose rise beyond Wythburn Head; the Scafell 
 Pikes, with Great End and Lingmell, the Borrow- 
 dale mountains, Glaramara, and Great Gable, 
 stand in bold relief against the sun's declining 
 beams. The Derwent mountains complete the 
 circle, the surface of Bassenthwaite glowing like 
 burnished gold, and the lordly Criffel lifts hislzure 
 head over Solway's foaming tide. Helvellyn is 
 three thousand and fifty-five feet above the level of 
 the sea. 
 
 LEATHES WATER. 
 
 The inn is a mile from the head of the lake, 
 which is known by the several names of Leathes 
 Water, Thirlmere, Wythburn Water, and Brack- 
 mere. It is about three miles in length, though 
 rarely exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth ; 
 the depth is not above eighteen fathoms, and its 
 waters, which are the most elevated of any, are not 
 remarkable for clearness. Pike, trout, and perch, 
 are the chief fish. It is nearly equally divided by 
 two promontories, connected by a series of wooden 
 bridges and stone causeways at a place where it is 
 fordable. The lower half, containing a small 
 island, presents the most beautiful views; the 
 upper part being more remarkable for wildness and 
 sublimity. Tourists are generally content with a 
 
48 
 
 LEATHES WALER. 
 
 sight of this lake from the high road, but the 
 western side ought not, on any account, to be passed 
 by without a perambulation. This mere is fed by 
 two streams; the main one rising in Wythburn 
 Head ; the other, not much inferior, pours down a 
 rocky gill, after issuing out of Harrop Tarn, a 
 marshy water of considerable size, situated at the 
 foot of a precipice, in a coom on the western side 
 of the valley. 
 
 ** There sometimes rtoth the leaping fish 
 Send through the tarn a lonely cheer ; 
 The crag repeats the raven's croak, 
 
 In symphony austere ; 
 Thither the rainbow comes — the cloud — 
 And mists that spread the flying shroud/' 
 
 In order to see this vale from its western side, 
 cross the meadows from the inn to a few white 
 cottages, enlivened by the green leaves of the 
 cheerful hollin tree, called the City, a corruption 
 undoubtedly for some more homely epithet ; thence 
 a road, not suitable for modern carriages, leads 
 under towering precipices and crags to an eminence 
 or rather promontory jutting into the lake, from 
 which Helvellyn appears to rise directly and per- 
 pendicularly out of the water. In front is the 
 upper lake and alpine bridges, separating it from 
 the lower reach, with the wood-crested How and 
 Naddle Fell on one hand, on the other the black 
 and storm-shattered fronts of Fisher and Raven 
 Crags ; and often between these rocky frames 
 Blencathra hangs suspended in aerial blue. In a 
 coom on the left, between Bull Crag and Fisher 
 
 LEATHES WATER. 
 
 49 
 
 Crag, are the Deargarth Cascades. Armboth 
 House is pleasantly situated on the top of a gentle 
 eminence under the Fells, whence the ground falls 
 in easy slopes all round to the water's edge : the 
 views from the house are commanding, and the 
 eye rests upon the huge surfaces of Helvellyn and 
 the Great Dodd. Raven Crag is a mighty mass 
 of dark, frowning crags, that have braved the fury 
 of many a storm. From its foot, looking dia- 
 gonally across the lake, Dalehead Hall, amid 
 woods of a modern growth, and, for the first time, 
 the summit of Helvellyn, form a magnificent pic- 
 ture. Hence to the outlet of the lake, where the 
 river may be watched, forming still pools between 
 low meadows of green pasture, and stealing quietly 
 and rather sluggishly away to foam and chafe with 
 the rocks and wilds of Legberthwaite, the tra- 
 veller will shortly after join the direct road, from 
 which he had diverged, in the dreary moss of Shool- 
 thwaite. 
 
 From the Horse Head inn, the carriage-road 
 winds under Helvellyn by the margin of the lake, 
 which it leaves by a very steep ascent. This side 
 of the dale presents the sternest features, seen, too, 
 most impressively — 
 
 " When the storm 
 Rides high — when all the upper air is fill'd 
 With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow 
 Like smoke, along the level of the blast." 
 
 From the top of this hill, is that admired and 
 magnificent view of Legberthwaite, or, as it is fre- 
 quently called, the Vale of St. John ; here is neither 
 
a.wjaataiaifaigawM'^A'-.:;!' .•. <■,■-■«.■* 
 
 50 
 
 LEATHES WATER, 
 
 KESWICK. 
 
 51 
 
 lake nor stream, the carriage-road is the only 
 foreground — sweet enclosures repose in their fresh- 
 ness between Helvellyn and the Castle Rock, the 
 How and Naddle, whilst the crags of Wanthwaite 
 frown on a scene, which is closed by the couthern 
 front of Blencathra, torn into frightful ravines, and 
 gullies, and precipices. There is an inn here, 
 the King's Head, whence Legberthwaite and the 
 grounds about Dalehead Hall can be more readily 
 visited. A little beyond, cross St. John's Beck, the 
 water of which flows out of Thirlmere, by Smal- 
 thwaite Bridge of one arch, which is a fine study 
 for the artist, along with its accompaniments. 
 Thence the road leads through Shoolthwaite Moss, 
 a peat-bog lying between Naddle Fell and the Iron 
 and Gait crags. Rougha Bridge is another sketch 
 with its neighbouring crags, that should grace the 
 portfolio. A little in advance from this, is a station 
 which displays to the traveller the three mountains 
 of Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Helvellyn, visible to 
 their summits. Blencathra perhaps appears most 
 favourable to the eye, the middle-ground harmonis- 
 ing best with it. The stranger now arrives at 
 Castle Rigg Brow, from whence a prospect, which 
 the last few miles of dreary desolation had not led 
 him to count upon, bursts upon his gladdened 
 sight. The gleaming waters of Bassenthwaite 
 shine amid the well-wooded and highly-cultivated 
 valley, which extends from that lake to the town 
 of Keswick. Crosthwaite church, with innumera- 
 ble, seats, villages, and cottages, lie interspersed 
 
 throughout the rich and glowing plain. On the 
 south and west, Bassenthwaite is bounded by the 
 craggy tops stretching from Grizedale Pike to the 
 cultivated lands beyond Wythop Woods, and the 
 widely-extended vale is sheltered by Skiddaw on 
 the north. The view expands as you descend to 
 Brow Top, whence the eye takes in Derwent Water 
 and the Borrodale mountains at its head. 
 
 KESWICK 
 
 Is a neat market-town, consisting of one long street 
 of good houses, situated near the foot of Derwent 
 Water. The chief inns are the Royal Oak and 
 Queen's Head ; but there are several smaller inns, 
 where parties may be accommodated, besides many 
 neatly-furnished private lodgings. Post-chaise's 
 and ponies may be had at the inns, with intelligent 
 guides for excursions by land, and neat pleasure- 
 boats Tor the water. Here are two museums, ex- 
 hibiting the geological history of the surrounding 
 locality, and many foreign curiosities; one was 
 established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, and is 
 now kept by his son. At both the museums the 
 various mineral productions of the district are ex- 
 posed for sale. The Town-Hall was built in 1813, 
 on the site of the old Court House : the bell on 
 which the clock strikes, was removed from the 
 seat of the Radcliffe's on Lord's Island, and is 
 inscribed " H. O. R. O., 1001." This building is 
 used both for a court-room, and also for marketino- 
 
 F 2 
 
52 
 
 KESWICK. 
 
 and other public purposes. The parish church 
 of Crosthwaite stands almost in the centre of 
 this finest of vales ; the parish is very extensive, 
 containing scenery not to be surpassed, whether 
 you regard the varied beauties of Derwent Water, 
 the stern majesty of Thirlmere, the lovely rural 
 meads of Newlands, the sublime gorge of Bor- 
 rowdale, or the lone grandeur of Watendlath. The 
 church, dedicated to St. Kentigern, is a building 
 of the age when the perpendicular style of architec- 
 ture was becoming debased, and consists of a nave 
 with aisles and chancel. There is an interestino- 
 hexagonal font, having shields and figures carved 
 on each of the fronts ; and in one of the windows 
 there is some stained glass. The church was an- 
 ciently covered with lead, which was exchanged for 
 a roof of slate in 1812. The vicarage is beautifully 
 placed on an eminence half a mile from the church, 
 and commands a rich, extended prospect. Near the 
 parish church-yard is the Grammar School, and 
 the charitable institutions are very numerous and 
 creditable to the inhabitants. A new church of the 
 pointed style, having a tower and spire at the west 
 end, has been built by the late William Marshall, 
 Esq., the purchaser of the Greenwich property, 
 situated here. This is a pleasing object in the 
 approach from Penrith. At Keswick are manufac- 
 tories of coarse woollen goods, edge-tools, and black- 
 lead pencils. The great high-roads from Kendal 
 and Penrith to Cockermouth, Whitehaven, &c., 
 unite here, rendering this place the grand rendez- 
 
 j^igiij^^^^msg^ggsm^^um^i 
 
^iMM^^^g^riMMlHiii 
 
DERWENT WATER. 
 
 53 
 
 vous of tourists whilst visiting the northern parts 
 of the Lakes. 
 
 We shall now hasten to describe the lake, which 
 is the chief object of attraction, and then the 
 various walks and short tours which can be most 
 conveniently undertaken from this point. 
 
 DERWENT WATER 
 
 V 
 
 Is of an oval shape, three miles long, and one mile 
 and a half broad. Its waters abound with trout, pike, 
 perch, and eels ; and are separated from Bassen- 
 thwaite by low, flat, marshy, meadow lands. This 
 lake is surrounded by magnificence. On the south, 
 rise the fantastic mountains of Borrodale ; to the 
 north, the solitary majesty of Skiddaw uprears his 
 lordly head ; on the east, the steeps of Wallow Crag, 
 Lowdore, and the Gowdar Crag ; and on the west. 
 Cat Bells and the clustering mountains of Newlands. 
 It has been said to partake of the majesty of UUes 
 Water, and the lovely scenery of Windermere. 
 
 The near views of this lake are from Crow Park 
 
 Friar's Crag— Stable Field-— and the Vicarage; 
 the more distant are from Latrigg — Ormathwaite 
 — Applethwaite— and along the foot of Skiddaw 
 towards Bassenthwaite. Good bird*s-eye views are 
 presented from Castle Hill — Ashness — and Low- 
 dore. 
 
 The islands rather take from, than add to, 
 the attractions of the water. Their uniform round- 
 ness and thickness of foliage, with the manner of 
 
 f3 
 
54 
 
 DERWENT WATER. 
 
 their disposition, when viewed with any of the 
 grander features about the lake, are deformities. 
 Lord's Island, six acres in extent, once the residence 
 of the unfortunate Radcliffes, is now entirely covered 
 with wood : it is, along with Rampsholm, the pro- 
 perty of W. Marshall, Esq., who purchased the 
 Greenwich Hospital estates in this district. The 
 Vicar's Island, in olden times pertaining to Foun- 
 tain's Abbey, now belonging to General Peachy, 
 IS beautifully laid out in pleasure-grounds, and 
 crowned with a neat mansion, nearly hid amidst 
 the variety of trees, having a view to the south 
 only. St. Herbert's Island, nearly in the middle 
 of the lake, was the residence of the saint whose 
 name it bears. In his life-time he was intimate 
 with St. Cuthbert of Durham, and died, according 
 to Bede, in 687. There is a small grotto near the 
 remains of what are thought to have been the her- 
 mit's cell. The island belongs to Sir Wilfred 
 Lawson, of Brayton Hall, Bart. There are some 
 smaller islands, but not of such importance as to 
 demand a separate description. Of the Floating 
 Island, or rather rising and sinking Island, the 
 account given by Mr. Otley is perhaps the best 
 and most plausible ; as an object of interest, how- 
 ever, it is worth nothing to the tourist. 
 
 In riding round the lake, numberless are the 
 views of beauty, magnificence, and sublimity, which 
 will strike the traveller of taste and discernment. 
 Leaving Keswick and proceeding southwards along 
 the eastern side, you have the grandest side-screens 
 
 DERWENT WATER. 
 
 55 
 
 and foregrounds in Wallow Crag and the several 
 precipices in that range, which sometimes come 
 magnificently forward, sometimes retire and lean to 
 the east, their grey fronts often enlivened by green 
 woods, and combining with the water — the small 
 meadowy promontories and tree-clad eminences — 
 with Glaramara and his azure compeers in Borro- 
 dale. The first we shall particularise is one of the 
 lake, as seen over Lord's Island, Castle Head being 
 on the left and Friar Crag on the right of that 
 island, and beyond. Causey Pike with Newlands 
 Ivinff between Grizedale and Cat Bells. On Bar- 
 row Common may be observed that finely-wooded 
 promontory, which boldly projects almost into the 
 middle of the lake from the hall built by the late 
 Joseph Pockllngton, Esq., and commanding a fine 
 view of Derwent Water and Skiddaw. The cas- 
 cade, at the back of the house, may be seen by 
 leave ; there are two falls, but the upper one is"" 
 artificial ; fine trees, grassy banks, and rocks richly 
 decked in many greened mosses, are the adornments 
 of these falls, and their height is one hundred and 
 twenty-two feet. After leaving Barrow, the far- 
 famed Lowdore possesses irresistible claims on the 
 notice of the wanderer. This Force, after incessant 
 rains, is with its accompaniments sublime, but un- 
 fortunately, perhaps, for those who visit the Lakes, 
 few have the opportunity of seeing it at such a time. 
 The chasm through which the river passes is im- 
 mense, and in dry seasons the stones or fragments 
 of rock subdivide and obscure its waters. Gowdar 
 
56 
 
 DERWENT WATER. 
 
 Crag upon the left, broad, bold and finely marked, 
 rearing its aged head to an enormous height, over- 
 looks the embattled projection of Shepherd's Crao- 
 on the right. These rocks, exhibiting surfaces of 
 grandeur, are finely contrasted and beautifully en- 
 riched with oak, ash, and birch, of which some are 
 large and stately, others picturesque and wild, fan- 
 tastically expanding over, and impending from, and 
 partially obscuring, rocks where vegetation could 
 scarcely be expected. There is a good inn where 
 refreshment may be had at a moderate charge. 
 Further on is a scene greatly and deservedly admired 
 we mean the bridge and village of Grange, plant- 
 ed on the west banks of the Derwent ; the sweetlv- 
 wooded Holm Crag and other knolls swell above 
 the houses, over which masses of rock and precipi- 
 tous crags sublimely tower. The road here, with- 
 out crossing the water, enters Borrodale. Along 
 *the western side of the lake are two terrace-roads, 
 the lower one of which is commonly used, and 
 commands a succession of scenes replete with gra- 
 tification. The retrospective views are into Bor- 
 rodale, but in front are the islands studding the 
 glassy mirror of the lake, the finely-embayed coast 
 about Water End and Brandelow, with the deeply- 
 indented shores of the rich country beyond, and the 
 town of Keswick overlooked by Lonscale Fell, 
 Skiddaw, and Blencathra. Passing by Derwent 
 Bank and Lodge with Foe Park, you come to 
 Portinscale, a small village on the gentle swell of 
 a hill, which rises from the lake and river. From 
 
 ■ aij8Hii.w<sit8aaK!>a:aatB» 
 
 CROW PARK. 
 
 57 
 
 the neighbouring grounds that are higher than the 
 houses, may be viewed the lakes of Derwent Water 
 and the Bassenthwaite, with all the finely-wooded 
 and fertile country reaching from Swineside to 
 Skiddaw, a scene which for extent, beauty, and 
 sublimity, can rarely be equalled. Hence you cross 
 the Long Bridge over the Derwent, and passing 
 the church by the high-road or through the mea- 
 dows of Howray, arrive again at Keswick. 
 
 The boating on the lake presents the same grand 
 objects from a different surface and point of view. 
 We should, therefore, recommend the excursion to 
 be left to the discretion of the boatmen, who are 
 also guides. If it could be made by moonlight, the 
 gratification would be intense. 
 
 As might naturally be expected, Keswick is sur- 
 rounded by delightful walks, and is the grand focus 
 from whence rides, embracing every variety of lake 
 and mountain scenery, radiate. 
 
 CROW PARK, 
 
 Lying between the town and lake, and once covered 
 with oaks, though now denuded of its leafy honours 
 is a gentle eminence presenting several beautiful 
 views, which shall be pointed out by way of enu- 
 meration. The first view is towards the head of 
 the lake, beyond which the Borrodale mountains 
 are observed clustering together above Castle Crag, 
 the conical hill in the centre of the opening. Se- 
 cond, directly west over the lake, between Vicar's 
 
58 FRIAR CRAG. — COCKSHOT CASTLEHEAD. 
 
 Island and the isthmus, are the Nevvlands mountains, 
 and beyond them, Robinson and High Stile on the 
 east and west sides of Buttermere respectively. 
 Third, over the lower end of the lake is a scene of 
 beauty and grandeur; villas and the village of 
 Braithwaite, partially hidden by trees, are scattered 
 over gentle eminences, Grizedale Pike towering 
 over the whole. And fourth, a very narrow strip 
 of Bassenthwaite may be observed over the mea- 
 dows, and the easy swelling hills which in the 
 remote distance grace the foot of the lake. 
 
 FRIAR CRAG 
 
 Is the grand promenade, and the place to which all 
 strangers are conducted on their arrival in Keswick. 
 The latter part of this walk is through a grove of 
 oaks and firs ; and at the end there is a bench to 
 rest on, whence may be seen nearly the whole cir- 
 cumference of the lake. 
 
 COCKSHOT 
 
 Presents a general view of the lake, and from its 
 vicinity to the town, its ease of access, and its 
 numerous charms, demands peculiar attention. 
 
 CASTLEHEAD AND WALLOW CRAG.* 
 
 There is a beautiful and entertaininsr walk to 
 the summit of these, which is gained by proceeding 
 
 THE GRETA THE DRUID's CIRCLE. 59 
 
 a short distance on the Borrodale road, and then 
 turning up the woods to the left. At the com- 
 mencement is a superb view of Keswick, the church, 
 and Bassenthwaite. On the top are benches, 
 where you may rest, and look over the soft bosom 
 of the lake full into the gorge of Borrodale, which 
 IS the grand aspect. To the north is Bassen- 
 thwaite Water and the stately Skiddaw. 
 
 ft 
 
 THE GRETA. 
 
 There is not a more interesting walk than up this 
 river, which presents splended views of Blencathra 
 as you follow the stream up its course. Downwards 
 there is an attractive picture, the cotton-mill being 
 in front, whilst over a bend of the stream, flanked 
 by woods, are seen the distant mountains of New- 
 lands. 
 
 THE DRUID's circle. 
 
 " A few rude monuments of mountain stone 
 Survive : all else is swept away." 
 
 This religious monument is situated on the top 
 of a lone hill, one mile and three quarters on the 
 road from Keswick to Penrith, in the centre of the 
 loftiest mountains in the district, away from the 
 sight and sound of human life. It occupies a cir- 
 cular area three hundred and thirty-six feet in cir- 
 cumference, and one hundred and fourteen feet in 
 diameter, surrounded by thirty-eight granite stones 
 
60 
 
 THE DRUIDS CIRCLE. 
 
 from three to eight feet high, having at the east end 
 ten other stones, forming three sides of a square. 
 From these stones is seen the whole encircling 
 country ; Skiddaw and Blencathra to the north 
 present their deep-chasraed and precipitous fronts ; 
 the Dodds, Wanthwaite Pikes, with the savage 
 dale of Naddal, shut up the scene to the south ; 
 and to the west, the fells beyond Keswick rear their 
 majestic and undulating summits to the clouds; 
 whilst on the east, the dreary waste of Hutton 
 Moor is overtopped by the blue summit of Cross 
 Fell. It was amidst such scenes as these that the 
 Druid sage warmed into piety the hardy tempers of 
 the Britons, and employed the solemnity of nature 
 to aid the sanctity of religion : for 
 
 ** There his temple rose ! no fretted aisle. 
 No vaulted roof adorned the simple pile, 
 But clouds above them, and around the wood — 
 Roofless and vast .the circle columns stood! 
 Such relics still the wondering shepherd sees. 
 Where ocean rocks the storm-clad Hebrides : 
 "Where Keswick's lake expands its glassy breast. 
 Or Mona's cliffs conceal the eaglet's nest; 
 Or where dim silence holds his spectral reign. 
 O'er Scotia's heaths and Sarum's lonely plain. 
 Time spares them still — to tell how short the span. 
 Assigned to earth's uncertain wanderer — man ; 
 How long his works, like summer's twilight ray, 
 Outlive the sunset of his own decay 1" 
 
 Having described the neighbouring walks, such 
 as may be made in an evening, or when the weather 
 has perhaps for part of the day kept the tourist 
 within, and he is at a loss to fill up the remainder 
 
 tiBfrjiaiBaaiaiiiiaMgs^jSaaghMiKa 
 
 WATENDLATH. 
 
 61 
 
 profitably, an account of these which demand longer 
 time, shall follow. 
 
 WATENDLATH. 
 
 The road pursues the eastern side of Derwent 
 Water as far as Barrow Common, when it ascends 
 the hill, having Barrow House on the rio-ht. 
 Ashness Bridge crossing the stream which forms 
 that cascade. There is a fine retrospective view 
 of Derwent Water, with Skiddaw, Bassenthwaite, 
 and the distant lands. The road then passes 
 through a narrow valley, walled in on the right by 
 steep precipices two or three hundred feet hio-h; 
 while the other side recedes upwards, so that its 
 slopes admit of the plough. Through this defile, 
 flows the stream forming Lowdore, which on leav- 
 ing the valley enters an abyss, rendered gloomy by 
 beetling crags and shadowy trees. The hamlet is 
 in a solitary valley three hundred yards above 
 the surrounding vales : all the houses arc richly 
 coloured, and well combined with wood and back 
 grounds. The bridge is worthy of notice, and 
 crosses the stream at its outlet from the lake or 
 tarn, which is large and circular, fringed with trees 
 and guarded by rocky heights. The stream that 
 enters it, flows from Blea Tarn, which is higher 
 up, whence there is presented a most extensive 
 mountain prospect. Leaving this upper story of 
 society, we shall descend into Borrodale, after 
 passing 
 
 G 
 
62 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 
 
 " A dreary plain, 
 With a tumultuous waste of huge hill-tops, 
 A savage region." 
 
 But from the top is opened out a magnificent 
 scene of mountains, inclosing the Vale of Ros- 
 thwaite, Seathwaite, and Stonethwaite, and their 
 wild boundaries. The return from Rosthwaite to 
 Keswick is past the Bowder Stone, and along the 
 banks of Derwent Water ; or it may be by the top 
 of Lowdore Fall, for the sake of the view of Der- 
 went Water, Skiddaw, &c. 
 
 THE WEST SIDE OF LEATHES WATER. 
 
 From Keswick the tourist must proceed on the 
 Ambleside road till he arrives at the end of Shool- 
 thwaite Moss, where he will deviate to the right 
 into a rugged cart-road. This leads to the foot of 
 the lake, and thence along its western side, as before 
 described, to Armboth. Cross the lake here, and 
 pass through the park of Dale Head Hall as far as 
 the main road, whence is the fine view of Legberth- 
 waite, with Blencathra as its background. Pass 
 through this rugged valley, affording room for little 
 more than the road and river, to the rock of St. 
 John's or Green Crag. The approach into the 
 valley from Threlkeld displays this rock in the 
 most poetical point of view, and under some states 
 of atmosphere it requires no stretch of the imagina- 
 tion to transform its grey perpendicular masses into 
 an impregnable castle, whose walls and turrets 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 
 
 63 
 
 
 waving with ivy and other parasitical plants, form 
 the prison of the immortal Merlin. Legberthwaite 
 Mill at its foot was destroyed some seventy years 
 ago by a water-spout, all the destructive traces of 
 which the healing hand of time has effaced. On 
 the right are the huge, sullen, and severe crags of 
 Wanthwaite, which for terrific grandeur vie with 
 any in the district. Immediately beneath them, 
 on a gentle knoll, is the pleasant mansion of Low- 
 thwaite, overlooking the agreeable vale of Threlkeld. 
 The river, and bridges spanning its stream in dif- 
 ferent places, form fine foregrounds to various 
 charming scenes. Towards the left, on Naddle Fell, 
 stands the chapel of St. John, secluded from the 
 cheering rays of the sun during a quarter of the 
 year. The road continues till it meets the line 
 from Penrith, and so again passing the Druid's 
 Circle, you reach Keswick. 
 
 SKIDDAW 
 
 Is less difficult of ascent than the rest of the supe- 
 rior elevations, and the road from the town is so 
 conducted as to render the way easy either on foot 
 or on horseback. The views in the ascent are 
 perhaps superior to those presented from the sum- 
 mit. One of the finest is where Ormathwaite 
 appears splendidly surrounded by majestic trees, 
 and all the populous and beautifully-embowered 
 plain extending from lake to lake. A little further 
 IS an exquisite view of Keswick and the lake, with 
 
 g2 
 
64 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 
 
 65 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK, 
 
 the Borrodale, Langdale, and Wastdale mountains. 
 On the steepest part of the road, Derwent Water 
 gradually unfolds and extends itself in its whole 
 encircling and heautifully-embayed coast, its islands, 
 and its fertile shores and savage boundaries. Hence 
 also the high mountains of Langdale, Coniston, 
 Eskdale, Borrodale, Wastdale, Buttermere, and 
 Newlands, are observed in an arrangement superior 
 to their appearance from any other point. There 
 are seven distinct tops or heaps of stone, which 
 should be visited in succession by the pedestrian : 
 most of these present interesting and varying views, 
 but the chief elevation is deficient in not allowiuif 
 a sight of Derwent Water. The grand and exten- 
 sive prospects embrace five difterent ranges of moun- 
 tains : First, Grizedale, rising from the enclosures 
 of Braithwaite. Second, succeeded by Barrow and 
 Stile End. The third range rises from the fields 
 of Newlands, and terminates in Causey Pikes and 
 Grasmire. The fourth in this wild combination, 
 includes Cat Bells, Hindscarth, Robinson, and Red 
 Pike. The fifth and last is that sublime chain ex- 
 tending from Coniston to Ennerdale. In the dis- 
 tant sea is observable the Isle of Man ; the towns 
 of Cockermouth and Workington on the Derwent ; 
 the Solway, with Maryport and Allonby ; Ireby at 
 the foot of Binsey ; Wigton and Carlisle ; High 
 Hesket and Tarn Wadling ; and Blencathra and 
 Wanthwaite Cra^s. 
 
 The descent will appear to many more pleasing, 
 both as it is easier, and as it is agreeable to see 
 
 every thing resuming their original shapes and just 
 proportions, which they lose when viewed from 
 such an unusual elevation. The returning symp- 
 toms of life, the hum of bees, the song of birds, 
 and the voice of busy people, restore tone to the 
 spirits depressed by over much excitement. 
 
 BLENCATHRA OR SADDLEBACK. 
 
 In order to reach the toj) of this mountain, it is 
 best to go along the road towards Penrith as far as 
 Scales, a hamlet six miles from Keswick ; here a 
 bye-road keeps close under the fell, which must be 
 pursued till a shepherd's green path can be traced, 
 winding up the hill- side. The first ridge this path 
 reaches, gives a glimpse down into the vale, watered 
 by the Glenderamaken ; thence to the summit it is 
 easy. From Linthwaite Pike, the highest point, 
 the prospect is open to the north, east, and south. 
 At the base of an enormous perpendicular crag, call- 
 ed Tarn Crag, depending from the top, is Scales 
 Tarn, a beautiful circular piece of transparent water, 
 with a well-defined shore, covering an area of three 
 acres and a half, and being eighteen feet deep. 
 Here you are engulphed in a basin of steeps, having 
 Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling from 
 Sharp Edge on the east, and on the west the 
 soft turf on which the descent has been made. From 
 the summit of the moi;ntain you may descend either 
 directly upon Threlkeld, or by Lile Fell, Priestman, 
 and Knott Crags, to the Glenderaterra, the stream 
 
 g3 
 
 &i <— >i.t^..*f>aj'i:^-«»-»J'afl'j^i;i.«nil#Tll!?ltaaMlftiSi.J', 
 
 sa£a»;i&gS8aK"*»'i"^- 
 
 iA:.rttiaa^aAtet..ij>Ajfl^B'*a«^ * 
 
66 
 
 BORRODALE. 
 
 
 BORRODALE. 
 
 67 
 
 that flows out of Skiddaw Forest ; a bridge crosses 
 the beck, and the path will conduct you through 
 Brundhohn by a pleasant walk to Keswick. 
 
 Keswick being the head-quarters for the Cum- 
 berland Lakes, there vet remain manv animatino- 
 excursions for the entertainment of the active tra- 
 veller. 
 
 BORRODALE. 
 
 Not the least interesting is that into this dale, 
 at the entrance of which we were in the ride round 
 Derwent Water. At a distance it seems as if all 
 further progress were staid by a barrier of moun- 
 tains, but upon approaching this wall, one moun- 
 tain corner is found to be set a little past the other, 
 so that a windin<r entrance is left : the "roro-e is 
 straight, the whole width being occupied by the 
 road and river. 
 
 Within the entrance is Castle Crag, on which 
 tradition says that an ancient Roman fortification 
 once stood, commanding the pass into Borrodale. 
 Its summit commands a view northward of the 
 whole encircling shore of Derwent Water, with the 
 village of Grange in the foreground, Manesty, 
 Falcon, and Wallow Crags, being the immediate side 
 screens ; Crosthwaite church and Flatts bound the 
 lake, the woods of Foe Park rise in the west. Cas- 
 tle Rigg and Lat Rigg on the east, and Skiddaw 
 shuts off the scene. To the south, the prospect is 
 into the dale. The Bowder Stone and the wind- 
 
 ing river are below, the village of Rosthwaite is 
 in front at the junction of the vales of Stonethwaite 
 and Seathwaite, while the Eagle Crag and Glara- 
 mara tower above. 
 
 The Bowder Stone next arrests the attention, 
 standing on a high bank overlooking the river Der- 
 went. 
 
 "Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground, 
 The hidden nook discover'd to our view 
 A mass of rock, resembling, as it lay 
 Right at the foot of that moist precipice, 
 A stranded ship, with keel upturn'd, that rests 
 Fearless of winds and waves." 
 
 This is an immense fragment of rock, which may 
 possibly at some very distant period have fallen 
 from the mountains near, and have ever since re- 
 mained in its present position. Its dimensions are 
 as follows : — length, sixty-two feet ; height, thirty- 
 six feet ; circumference, eighty-nine feet ; mass, 
 twentv-three thousand and ninetv cubic feet ; and 
 estimated weight, one thousand nine hundred and 
 seventy-one tons. The appearance of it is not im- 
 proved by the ladder affixed to it to enable people 
 to see from its top, what can be much better viewed 
 from Castle Crag. A slate bench near it, presents 
 a pleasing view into Borrodale. On the right are 
 Sanderson's Band Rocks ; beneath meanders the 
 Derwent, enriching with welcome fertility the fields 
 and meadows through which are scattered the 
 dwellings of Borrodale. These rich meadows 
 stretch to the borders of the mountains, whose 
 
68 
 
 BORRODALE. 
 
 bases and sloping sides are covered with wood 
 almost to their aspiring tops. At Rosthwaite, the 
 principal hamlet, is a small inn. The vales of 
 which Borrodale is composed diverge from this 
 village, up which the tourist approaches from 
 Keswick to the north ; Seatoller leading to Butter- 
 mere to the west; Seathwaite and over the Stye 
 Head to Wastdale in a southerly direction ; and 
 Stonethwaite to the south-east, which again sepa- 
 rates into Langstreth, leading over the Stake into 
 Great Langdale, and Greenup leading into Ease- 
 dale, and thence into Grasmere. 
 
 A little up the road from the inn towards Stone- 
 thwaite is a splendid view, the river forming the 
 foreground, and Eagle Crag the distance. The 
 tourist should not fail to proceed to the point where 
 the grains of Greenup and Langstreth separate, 
 which he must do bv crossin(T Stonethwaite Bridsre. 
 This makes a picturesque subject, the village com- 
 posing the middle ground, and the Hay Stacks the 
 distance ; then ascend a little way up the wooded 
 rocks on the left, by which means he will command 
 a view of both at once, divided bv the towerins" 
 precipices of Eagle Crag, having Bull Crag 
 directly in front. The mountains of this dale, clad 
 with oaks and ash, yews and thorns, almost to their 
 summits, are the loftiest and most beautiful in 
 Borrodale. 
 
 Leaving Rosthwaite to proceed onwards to Wast 
 Water, whither we shall pursue our journey, on the 
 left is the neat small chapel belonging to this dale. 
 
 WAD MINE. 
 
 69 
 
 It is situated at the foot of steep mountains, and was 
 rebtiilt in 1706, Joseph Harris being chapel-warden, 
 as an inscription declares. Further on is a small 
 bridge over the Seathwaite-arm of the Derwent. 
 The road to the right leads by Seatoller to Butter- 
 mere, which we shall have occasion to notice after- 
 wards. Seathwaite Bridge and village combine 
 happily with Aaron End and Sprinkling, which 
 cross the head of the valley, above which Great 
 End swells sublimely, having on the left Keppel 
 Cove and Hind Crag, and on the right Bays Brown. 
 Hence may be visited the famous 
 
 W^AD MINE, 
 
 Which is in the south-east part of Giller Coom, 
 flanked at its ends by Seatoller Fell and Bays 
 Brown. It has been opened at different places, 
 where the wad had probably appeared on the sur- 
 face. This curious and valuable substance is met 
 with in masses, often at a considerable distance 
 from each other, and found with great difficulty in a 
 rock of grey felspar porphyry. When the mine was 
 first opened, has not been ascertained. Formerly 
 It was wrought only at intervals, and in such a man- 
 ner as to keep up the price of the article ; but not 
 being so rich in quantity, and inferior also in qua- 
 hty, it is now carried on ren^ularly to meet the in- 
 creased demand. A house is built over the mouth, 
 where the workmen are examined every time they 
 leave the mine ; but owing to the great value of the 
 
70 
 
 SCAFELL PIKES. 
 
 WASTDALE. — WAST WATER. 
 
 71 
 
 wad, the greatest precaution has scarcely been able 
 to keep the miners honest. The principal owner 
 is H. Bankes, Esq. Its main use is for the manu- 
 factory of pencils, which the artist would now find 
 it a great inconvenience to want. 
 
 After leaving the mine and Seathwaite, keeping 
 Taylor's Gill on the right, Stockley Bridge will 
 tempt the artist to make a memento of it, and the 
 rest will also prepare him for the ascent up Aaron, 
 which leads in a zig-zag course, till it reaches the 
 Stye Head, one thousand two hundred and fifty 
 feet above the valley. The tarn under Great End 
 Crag is a fine subject for the pencil. A mile 
 from hence up a runner is Sprinkling Tarn, noted 
 by all anglers for its trout. Hence 
 
 SCAFELL PIKES 
 
 May be most conveniently ascended. The South 
 Pike, which is three thousand and ninety-two feet 
 in height, is most accessible from Wastdale or Esk- 
 dale. This aspiring pinnacle presents a more 
 sublime and not less elegantly-varied range of 
 mountains, dales, and sea views, than either Hel- 
 vellyn or Skiddaw ; a considerable part of the Lan- 
 cashire, Cumberland, and Scotch coasts, with the 
 Isle of Man and Snovvdon in Wales being visible. 
 The Pike which is three thousand one hundred and 
 sixty feet in height on the north peak of the fell, 
 commands a view of Windermere and Derwent 
 lakes ; and, upon the whole, presents a more com- 
 
 plete panorama than the other point. These, 
 though only twelve hundred yards in a direct dis^ 
 tance, are separated by a chasm called the Mickle 
 Door, costing a distance of two miles' severe tra- 
 velling to overcome. Very little or rather no 
 vegetation is to be seen on this fell ; rocks and 
 large blocks of stone piled one upon another, are the 
 principal features, and the geographicus hjchnicus 
 appears m peculiar beauty. The distance of Sea- 
 fell from any house of entertainment, the run-o-ed 
 ground, and the danger of being caught in m'ists, 
 prevent this mountain from being visited by any 
 but hardy pedestrians, neither would we recommend 
 such even to venture without a guide. 
 
 WASTDALE. 
 
 The road is cut in a serpentine manner down the 
 side of Great Gable, having Great End and the 
 Pikes on the left. Over Lingmell Cra-s, the 
 ground-work of the Pikes, is seen the deep, co'lifined 
 and fruitful valley of Wastdale Head, with its 
 chapel and half-dozen houses scattered upon a 
 plain of meadow and corn-ground, divided into 
 chequers by stone walls. Beyond, within a bed of 
 steep rocky mountains of pure, unmixed, impene- 
 trable sterility, is the long, narrow, stern, and de- 
 solate lake of Wast Water, to the head of which 
 from these houses it is two miles. Refreshment may 
 be had at any of these very respectable states- 
 men, and the tourist wiU not offend them by offer- 
 
72 
 
 WAST WATER. 
 
 CALDER ABBEY. 
 
 73 
 
 >i 
 
 ing a sufficient remuneration for their civility and 
 trouble. Near their dwelling is the humble Chapel 
 of Ease, past which a mountain track leads under 
 Scafell by Burnmoor Tarn into Eskdale. 
 
 WAST WATER 
 
 Is three miles and a half long, and three quarters of 
 a mile broad, the depth is from forty to fifty fathoms, 
 and it is probably owing to this, in proportion to 
 the extent of its surface, that it has never been 
 known to freeze. Trout in great quantities, and a 
 few char, frequent its waters. The chief feeders 
 are Over Beck on the south of Yewbarrow, and 
 Nether Beck on the north of Middle Fell, issuing 
 from tarns near the Havcocks, and runnino- throuo-h 
 Bowderdale. The waters are discharged by the 
 Irt at Raveno^lass. 
 
 Being a border lake, its end lying in the low 
 country, whilst its head is nestled in mountains, it 
 appears from the foot to the greatest advantage, 
 and is under that aspect most distinguished for 
 sublimity. The mountains are naked to their base, 
 their sides and summits are uniform, shooting up 
 into lofty points and ending in pyramidical forms. 
 Looking upwards, Yewbarrow forms a fine apex ; 
 Kirkfell pushes forward its front to the left ; and at 
 the head of the dale, the Gable appears conspicuous. 
 On the right, Lingmell comes finely forward, over 
 which the pikes of Scafell reign supreme. Up the 
 side vale of Bowderdale, is the Haycock ; and the 
 
 Pillar crowns the head of Mosedale. Middle Fell 
 runs along the margin of the lake ; and on the oppo- 
 site side are the Screes, which seem going to decay, 
 their foundation in the water, and their surface and 
 soil being gone, while immense debris and torrents 
 of rocks and stones cover their sides. This range 
 of fell prevents the circumambulation of the lak°e. 
 Proceeding onwards, a retrospective view of Yew- 
 barrow, the Gable, and the Pikes, seen over Over 
 Beck Bridge, is a fine picture. From Nether Beck 
 Bridge the road passes over a rising ground, and 
 from a field in front of Crookhead, where a beauti- 
 ful cottage has been built by Stansfield Rawson, 
 Esq., of Halifax, is one of the finest views of VVast- 
 dale Head and Water. At the Strands, at Nether- 
 wasdale, is a comfortable inn, where entertainment 
 may be had, set off with civility, and enhanced by 
 economical charg-es. 
 
 On the road to Calder Abbey, the antiquarian 
 must perforce stop at Gosforth, which has a re- 
 markably neat church, and in the churchyard a tall 
 cross of British or Danish origin, sculptured on its 
 four faces with various figures and devices. From 
 hence, it is a good and pleasant road to Calder 
 Bridge, where, at either of the two excellent inns, 
 the weary traveller may rest for the night. 
 
 CALDER ABBEY. 
 
 On the north side of the river, about a mile above 
 the bridge, stand the sequestered ruins of this 
 
 H 
 
 
74 
 
 CALDER ABBEY. 
 
 EGREMONT. 
 
 75 
 
 abbey ; and on tbe opposite side of the stream are 
 the vestiges of a Roman encampment. From the 
 Brido^e Inn there is a sweetlv-wooded walk alono- 
 the banks of the stream, which presents several 
 glimpses of the solemn ruins, the tower rising mag- 
 nificently out of the massy foliage of the forest 
 trees, by which it is now enveloped. Ranulph, son 
 of the first Ranulph de Meschiens, founded this 
 abbey for Cistercian monks in 1134 ; its revenues 
 at the dissolution amounted only to £64 3s. 9d. 
 None of the conventual buildings remain ; Mr. 
 Irwin's house most probably stands upon their site. 
 The church was of the usual cross form. The 
 south side of the nave is gone. The west door is 
 good Norman, but plain. The nave consists of 
 five arches in length, pointed, and the mouldings 
 flat : all this part is richly covered with ivy. The 
 centre tower stands on four pointed arches, sup- 
 ported by lofty piers. The east end of the choir 
 is gone ; it has had no lateral lights, but the walls 
 are adorned with long slender pillars and niches ; 
 and on the south side are four circular niches, foli- 
 ated, one being pierced as a door. There are the 
 remains of cloisters on the south side, suflScient to 
 show them to have been beautiful specimens of 
 early English. There are some old monuments 
 with recumbent figures. The grounds are kept in 
 excellent order ; the greensw^ard is beautiful ; and 
 no noxious weeds are allowed to disfigure the pre- 
 cincts of this once-hallowed shrine* 
 
 A short distance west from the inns, is Ponsonbv 
 
 Hall, standing in a noble park on the opposite side 
 of the road, built about 1786, and remarkable for 
 the elegance and convenience of its apartments. 
 The garden and walks on the woody banks of the 
 Calder are beautiful ; and the view by sea and land 
 is extensive. Among many curious pieces of anti- 
 quity brought from Dalegarth Hall, in Eskdale, is 
 a carved bedstead made about 1345, having the 
 arms of the Austhwaite family quartered with the 
 Stanleys. The church stands in the park, and is 
 a pretty stone building, well paved, and containing 
 some stained glass brought from Dalegarth. 
 
 It is usual for tourists to proceed" direct over 
 Copeland forest to Ennerdale Bridge and village, 
 and thence by Lamplugh to Lowes Water ; but we 
 shall endeavour to carry them a more interestino- 
 route. ° 
 
 On the right, in pursuing the road, is the white 
 village of Hale ; and before you lies, in a fine agree 
 able vale, fertilized by the Ehen, 
 
 EGREMONT, 
 
 With its ruined castle crowning the northern banks. 
 The heights above the town conceal beneath their 
 surface a productive iron mine. The bridge over 
 the river, and the castle above it, form a romantic 
 scene ; indeed, the town and castle, from many 
 points on the Ehen, display pleasing assemblages of 
 the picturesque. The castle, situated upon a rising 
 ground, flanked on the south by the Ehen, was pro^ 
 
 H 2 ■ 
 
76 
 
 EGREMONT. 
 
 bably built by William de Mescbiens, first lord of 
 tbe barony of Copeland, to which he was presented 
 by his brother Ranulph, who held Cumberland and 
 Westmorland under William the Conqueror. Little 
 of it remains at present. The principal part is the 
 keep. The arch of the gate-way is the horse-shoe 
 arch, and its groining is by plain cross-springers. 
 The outward wall has, from its base upwards, ten 
 courses of herring-boned work. The other arches 
 which remain are three in number, pointed and 
 covered with ivy. But within these few years, this 
 building has suffered more from wanton spoliation 
 than from the ravao^es of time. There is nothino- 
 worth notice in the town ; it is small, neat, and 
 clean ; the houses adjoining the market-place have 
 many of them rude colonnades of wood in front, 
 under which the corn is exposed for sale durino- 
 rainy weather. The church, dedicated to Saint 
 Mary, has been much modernized ; the east end is 
 circular in its centre, with flat wings, each con- 
 taining two pointed windows, ornamented by a 
 single shaft. The name of Egremont signifies the 
 " Mount of sorrow :" but it must not be confounded 
 with Wotobank, which is two miles from the castle. 
 From Egremont it is four miles to Saint Bees ; 
 which is a long village reaching down the side of a 
 ridge into a deep, contracted vale, which embraces 
 in a semi-circular sweep the bold bluff heads. It is 
 chiefly celebrated for its grammar-school, and for 
 its abbey. 
 
 ABBEY OF SAINT BEES. 
 
 ABBEY OF SAINT BEES. 
 
 77 
 
 The abbey owes its first foundation, according 
 to tradition, to a holy woman called Bega, who 
 came over from Ireland in the year 65o! This 
 house did not escape the barbarous ravages of the 
 Danes, for we find William, brother of Ranulph de 
 Meschiens, re-establishing it as a cell for a Prior and 
 SIX Benedictine monks, dependent upon St. Mary's 
 in York. Another great benefactor was William 
 de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle. Its revenues at 
 the dissolution were £149 19s. 6d. It was granted 
 to Sir Thomas Chaloner, of York, but now belongs 
 to the Earl of Lonsdale. The Abbey Church con- 
 sists of a nave with aisles, used as the parish church, 
 transepts, and choir, which has had a south aisle,' 
 and is at present fitted up for the Clerical Institu^ 
 tion. The general style is early English, but the 
 west front has a Norman door of imposing appear- 
 ance, which is a plain bold specimen of that style, 
 though much dilapidated, from the nature of the 
 stone and exposure to the sea blasts. The piers, 
 five in number, that support the arches of the nave,' 
 are round, hexagonal, and clustered : this part is 
 spoiled by the introduction of modern sash windows, 
 quite out of character. The transepts, from the 
 way in which they are appropriated, cannot well be 
 examined. The interior arrangement at the east 
 end of the choir is singular ; three beautiful lancets 
 rise from a string, the centre one being higher and 
 
 h3 
 
 'Sj i|J>* 
 
78 
 
 ABBEY Oy SAINT BEES. 
 
 LAKE OF ENNERDALE. 
 
 79 
 
 wider, as is usually the case, and between each are 
 two tiers of niches, one above the other, having 
 clustered shafts and ornamental capitals, and a 
 common dripstone runs round the whole. The 
 north side of the choir is lighted by a series of 
 lancets, having single shafts set on the sides, the 
 interior shafts being plain, whilst the exterior are 
 filleted. The tower, which rises at the intersec- 
 tion of the nave and choir with the transepts, is 
 only a square in height ; it has a modern embattled 
 parapet, and a turret at the north-east angle. The 
 choir and north transept are used as lecture-rooms 
 for the Clerical Institution, and they are so fitted 
 up as to prevent you from seeing their correct pro- 
 portions. The library belonging to this establish- 
 ment is not large, but select, and contains a beautiful 
 full-length portrait of Dr. Ainger, presented by the 
 students. There are some pretty views of the Ab- 
 bey and parsonage from the meadows on the south, 
 and the heights in descending to the village ; but the 
 best display of its architectural features is from the 
 door of the grammar-school of Archbishop Grin- 
 dal. The inscription over the door is laconically 
 appropriate, 
 
 E. 1587. G. 
 Inoredere ut Proficias, 
 
 Four miles will carry you from the quiet, stu- 
 dious cloisters of Saint Bees, into the midst of the 
 bustling and commercial activity of Whitehaven. 
 The piers and coal-pits are the chief objects of 
 
 notice here. The Earl of Lonsdale has also a large 
 mansion, called the Castle. The tourist from Dub- 
 lin, Liverpool, or Glasgow, may land here and 
 penetrate into the Lakes byway of Egremont, Gos- 
 forth. Wast Water, over the Stye Head into Bor- 
 rodale, and thence to Keswick or Ambleside. 
 
 From Egremont, however, we hasten onwards to 
 Ennerdale, passing through Cleator, chiefly inha- 
 bited by those engaged in working the iron mines. 
 The church at this village, owing to its dilapidated 
 condition, is to be rebuilt forthwith. On the right, 
 the river Ehen flows the whole way, occasionally 
 appearing and disappearing, as it glides through 
 brakes and bushes of alders and willows in its course 
 from the lake of Ennerdale. 
 
 LAKE OF ENNERDALE. 
 
 This water is about two miles and a half lono- ; 
 near its foot it is half a mile across, but towards the 
 head it grows much narrower. It is well stocked 
 with trout and an inferior kind of char. It is much 
 secluded, difficult of access, and, consequently, rare- 
 ly seen. The shores are bold and somewhat savage. 
 The best scenery is between its foot and the side of 
 the hill to the north, in descending from Floutern 
 Tarn. Tourists generally rest satisfied with what 
 may be seen in passing the lower end, on their 
 progress to Buttermere, few liking to extend their 
 journey into the dale. Pedestrians anxious to ex- 
 plore the recesses of the mountains, may pass alono- 
 
 iuVtoWuw.^ fr ^Ti-iaitt ^«n>* a-tu 
 
 fUPtti^TS'-^gr l*>a 
 
80 
 
 LAKE OF ENNERDALE. 
 
 the eastern side from Ennerdale village ; the view 
 from How Hall, or Castle How, anciently the seat 
 of the Patricksons, now belonging to the Senhouses, 
 embraces the lake between Herd House and Bow- 
 ness Knott on the left, and Angling Stone and 
 Anglebarrow on the right, with the Steeple and 
 Pillar between them. On the Smithy Beck, beyond 
 Bowness, are some beautiful cascades. A mile and 
 a half from the water is the lonely farm of Giller- 
 thwaite ; whence you may pursue the Liza (once 
 the channel of a dreadful water-spout) in a course 
 of five miles to its source in Great Gable, which 
 lies at the head of the valley. 
 
 " A mountain-valley, in its blessed breast 
 Receives the stream, which there delights to lie 
 
 Untroubled and at rest. 
 
 Beneath the untainted sky. 
 Where in a lovely lake it seems to sleep." 
 
 On the left, it is possible to pass over the Scarf 
 Gap into Buttermere ; on the right, over the Black 
 Sale, between Kirkfell and the Pillar, into the head 
 of Mosedale, and thence to Wastdale Head. This 
 water may also be approached from Buttermere 
 Inn by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn ; or from 
 Scale Hill, through Mosedale, to Floutern Tarn ; 
 or by High Nook near Lowes Water, over Blake 
 Fell, past the west end of Gavel Fell, to the village 
 of Crossdale. These paths are mentioned rather 
 with a view of informing the pedestrian tourist what 
 is practicable, than of recommending such to his 
 notice for adoption. 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 81 
 
 At Ennerdale Bridge are two public-houses. 
 The chapel is a small fabric, which was re-pewed 
 in 1786 ; the thorn hedge which enclosed the burial- 
 ground was removed in 1825, and a stone wall built : 
 being six miles distant from the mother church of 
 Saint Bees, it enjoys parochial privileges. 
 
 The road from Ennerdale by Lamplugh keeps 
 the fells at some distance on the right, skirting 
 their bases as it leads onwards. The irreo-ular 
 swells and lofty eminences seen in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, are Blake Fell and Knockmurton. 
 On the right is Lamplugh Hall, an ancient edifice 
 situated at the foot of a lofty green hill, with an 
 extensive view north and north-west. The church 
 is an antique structure, near the principal gate-way 
 leading to the hall, the residence of the family of 
 Lamplugh, of known valour in the service of their 
 country, but who became extinct in T. Lamplugh, 
 who died at Copgrove, in Yorkshire, February 
 18th, 1783. Four or five miles further, on the 
 left, but out of the way, is Eaglesfield, which we 
 notice because once possessed by a family of that 
 name, one of whom, Robert, was confessor to Queen 
 Philippa, consort of Edward HI, and founder of 
 Queen's College, in Oxford. 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 This is an ancient borough and market-town at 
 the confluence of the Derwent and Cocker, which 
 after flowing through Buttermere and Crummock, 
 
 >«.<iMiyvatfgiaailfaf'aa«-ii.'«il».-^J5ii&iMtjaf.!i.jr:.«. .->> '<gt'L''ai:"^'."'.ii.:if>l. 
 
82 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 83 
 
 and through the vale of Lorton, loses its name in 
 the elder brother-stream. It is divided by the 
 Cocker, the market-place, castle, and church, being 
 on its eastern side. The two principal streets are 
 spacious. The bridge over the Derwent consists 
 of two arches, and is two hundred and seventy feet 
 in length ; the Cocker is spanned by one noble 
 arch, one hundred and sixty feet long, and was built 
 in 1828 at the cost of £2600. Besides being well 
 watered by these fine rivers, it is intersected by 
 small rivulets, which is a great convenience to the 
 manufacturers, who produce cotton checks, ging- 
 hams, and coarse woollen goods. The whole place 
 is very prosperous ; the markets and fairs are nu- 
 merously attended and well supplied. The borough 
 returns two members to Parliament, and is also the 
 nomination place for the western division of the 
 county under the Reform Act, and was anciently 
 the place of election for the whole county. 
 
 The church or chapel of ease, is dedicated to All 
 Samts, and stands on an eminence at the top of 
 Kirkgate. It has no pretensions to architectural 
 beauty, but being enlarged in 1825, presents ample 
 accommodation. The tower contains six bells and 
 a set of pleasing chimes. The parsonage was built 
 in 1814 at the cost of £1300, defrayed by the 
 Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty and the Earl 
 of Lonsdale. The grammar-school in the church- 
 yard was founded in 1676 by Lord Wharton, Bishop 
 Smith, and others; a library containing valuable 
 books in divinity is attached to it. There are also 
 
 alms-houses and charitable societies for dilfferent 
 purposes ; neither is that most useful of all want- 
 ing, a dispensary. The late Earl of Egremont, 
 with his wonted munificence, presented the sum of 
 £2000 to the inhabitants, to be disposed of for the 
 benefit of the town. It has accordingly been appli- 
 ed in the erection of a convenient and handsome 
 market-place. 
 
 The castle stands on a bold elevation, strong by 
 nature, between the Derwent and the Cocker, 
 where it w^as built soon after the conquest, by Wal- 
 dieve, first lord of Allerdale. It forms an irre- 
 gular square, inclosed by strong walls, and defended 
 at the entrance by a portcullis, drawbridge, and 
 moat. On each side of the gate-way leading to the 
 interior court is a deep dungeon. The south-west 
 front, of which much still remains, stood on the 
 brink of the precipice above the rivers, where 
 appears to have been the state-room, and other 
 apartments in the great tower. Under this tower 
 is a vault thirty feet square, lighted by a small 
 grated window, and approached by a descent of 
 twelve steps, the roof upheld by a single octagonal 
 pillar, which branches out into ribs supporting the 
 groining. This castle was kept in repair till the 
 civil war, when it was reduced by the Parliament- 
 arian forces and dismantled ; since then it has lain 
 m ruins, with the exception of the gate-house and 
 the court-house at the east angle, which are kept 
 in repair for the occasional residence of the lord 
 of the manor. There is a bowling-green within 
 
84 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 the walls. The gate-way tower is ornamented 
 with the arms of the Umfranvilles, Multons, Lu- 
 cies, Percies, and Nevilles, for to all these fa- 
 milies this fortress has by turns belonged; the 
 main body is covered with ivy, and with the walls 
 and other towers forms a ffood study. On the 
 margin of the Derwent is a plain of considerable 
 extent, in which is a public walk beautifully ter- 
 minated by lofty cliffs, covered with trees — at the 
 other by the ruins of the castle impending over the 
 river, whose opposite banks are diversified by til- 
 lage. Indeed, the country round the town is plea- 
 santly varied with hill and dale, wood and water. 
 The Globe is the chief inn, and is most respectably 
 conducted. The Sun and the Apple Tree inns 
 may be mentioned. 
 
 Before leaving this town, the village of Papcastle, 
 crowning the ridge on the northern banks of the 
 Derwent, should be visited. Many of the houses 
 are genteel and commodious ; but above the village 
 is the site of a Roman Castrum, where a sfreat 
 variety of coins, urns, inscriptions, and remains of 
 baths, have been found. It subsequently became the 
 seat of the first lords of Allerdale, before they trans- 
 ferred themselves to the more advantageous posi- 
 tion occupied by Cockermouth Castle. 
 
 As Bridekirk is only two miles distant, the anti- 
 quarian tourist ought to spare time for the purpose 
 of inspecting the rare and curious Font in the parish 
 church. 
 
 The new road from Cockermouth to Bassen- 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 85 
 
 thwaite lies through the cultivated vale of Emble- 
 ton, stretching at a short distance in a direction 
 parallel to that through which the Derwent flows. 
 There is nothing very interesting for a few miles* 
 till the traveller obtains a view of the lake, with the 
 lordly Skiddaw looming over it, his head most 
 probably graced with a tiara of clouds. After 
 descending a hill, the road winds through a narrow 
 dale, with moderate eminences on either side clothed 
 with wood, till it reaches the water's edge : at this 
 point there is spread out before the ey°es a sweet 
 view of Armathwaite Hall, the residence of Sir 
 
 Vane, with its trees, single or in clumps, 
 
 sprmkled over the sloping lawns, the rising grounds 
 behmd enrobed with forests, and the silvery lake 
 filling the middle of the picture. 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER 
 
 Is four miles in length, and in some places almost 
 one mile in breadth. Lying on the edge as it were 
 of the mountain district, it is not viewed with the 
 same interest as others l)oth less in magnitude and 
 inferior in beauty or grandeur. It has no islands. 
 Its western side is bounded by the Wythop Woods 
 and Lord's Seat, which approach close to the 
 water's brink. Its eastern side is indented by 
 several pretty bays and promontories, as Bradness 
 and Scarness, which present excellent views, and 
 rich cultivated grounds occupy the space between 
 the margin of the lake and the lofty Skiddaw with 
 
I 
 
 86 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 his Dodd ; on the south are the flats irrigated by 
 the Derwent, its main feeder ; and on the north are 
 the beautiful park-grounds of Arraath waite Hall with 
 Binsey behind. Pike and perch are its principal 
 fish, and salmon pass through to deposit their spawn 
 in the Derwent. 
 
 The road passing through the woods of Wythop, 
 which are too thick and umbrageous, though afford- 
 ing here and their partial views of the lake and Skid- 
 daw, we should recommend going round the foot of 
 the lake, and passing by its eastern side to Keswick. 
 The tourist must ascend the road as it rises up the 
 hill, leading towards Ireby, and when immediately 
 above the Haws village, he will have the whole vale 
 below on his right hand, a scene of rich cultivation 
 waving with the golden harvest, the lake stretching 
 along, gleaming and flashing under the dark woods of 
 Wythop ; houses, hamlets, woods, and the far-spread- 
 ing landscape, fading away in the blue mountains 
 heaped together about the head of Derwent Water. 
 Thisisa view for beauty, grandeur, and magnificence, 
 which has not its superior. From the same point, 
 looking westward, a different prospect is beheld, one 
 almost entirely rural — the vale of Embleton divided 
 from the vale of Derwent, and each swelling out into 
 eminences scarcely aspiring to be hills, and adorned 
 with joyful crops, laughing under the ripening beams 
 of a glowing sun. The descent is rapid down to 
 the Haws, a village watered by a stream called 
 White Water Dash, and issuing from the north side 
 of Skiddaw. The bridge is uncommonly pictur- 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 87 
 
 esque, and indeed the artist may here enrich his 
 portfolio with several choice studies. A chapel of 
 ease is placed here, totally devoid of a single charm. 
 Follow the higher road of the two, to Keswick, 
 because its elevation gives a greater command over 
 the details of the valley, and a peep of the lake. You 
 come into the low road, where a branch leads off to 
 the church, which is old and was built about 1471, on 
 the margin of the lake, not far from the promonto- 
 ries of Bradness and Scarness. On the direct road 
 to Keswick, on the right, is Mirehouse, the seat of 
 T. Spedding, Esq., enveloped in woods. The 
 upper end of Bassenthwaite has been said to bear 
 some resemblance to the Lake of Como. It may 
 be worth while to deviate to Millbeck, which is si- 
 tuated on the left in one of those deep gullies in the 
 front of Skiddaw. Derwent Water is seen from it 
 to great advantage, with some pleasing foregrounds 
 that are not always to be had, at least such as are 
 suitable and appropriate. Hence to Keswick the 
 return is through the open vale. From the stone 
 stile leading over the fields, the church, with the 
 Newlands mountains behind, is a pleasing object. 
 
 The next ramble we shall take is not so exten- 
 sive, and is comprehended within the last, like a 
 small circle in a larger, touching only at the com- 
 mon point at Keswick. 
 
 Passing over the same ground, then, till he 
 reaches Rosthwaite, the observant tourist will dis- 
 cover many new objects to amuse that had escaped 
 
 i2 
 
I 
 
 88 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 BUTTERMERE. 
 
 89 
 
 his notice on the former occasion, even if the wea- 
 ther should produce no alteration in the aspect of 
 the scenery. From this village, instead of proceed- 
 ing on to Seathwaite, we shall turn sharp on the 
 right up to Seatoller, a small hamlet sealed on the 
 mountain's side, in a recess, filled with oak, ash, birch, 
 and larch. From a picturesque wooden bridge, ap- 
 pears in retrospect the mountains at the head of 
 Watendlath and VVythburn, Rosthwaite, Camcoom 
 Head, and Glaramara. The top of this road, 
 which is not passable for carriages, is eight hundred 
 and eighty feet above the Derwent. 
 
 On the right is Yew Crag Quarry : on the left 
 that stupendous precipice, Honistar Crag, rises sheer 
 out of the valley to the height of one thousand six 
 hundred feet, on which are extensive blue-slate quar- 
 ries. The river that runs through to the lake—" in 
 light and clouds it has its mortal birth"--is as wild as 
 the valley itself, having no banks but such as are 
 formed of fragments of rocks—no bed, but a channel 
 composed of rocky strata, among which the water 
 forces its course. Lower down is a view of Butter- 
 mere, with High Street and High Crag in the distance. 
 The sheep-farm-house and others called Gatesgarth, 
 stand at the end of Honistar Crag, half a mile from 
 the head of the lake, which is here seen under the 
 Hay Stacks, High Stile, and Red Pike, with the 
 wooden bridge between Buttermere and Crummock, 
 and the inn. From this hamlet are several fine 
 views of the Lakes. Hasness is on the banks of 
 
 Buttermere, whence it is a mile to the inn, which 
 is more closely and deeply entrenched in mount- 
 ains than any other. 
 
 BUTTERMERE 
 
 Is a mile and a quarter long, half a mile broad, and 
 about fifteen fathoms in depth. It is situated in a 
 valley of its own name, and is encompassed by 
 superb rocky mountains. Buttermere Moss and 
 Robinson bound it on the east ; the Hay Stacks, 
 High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, on the west; 
 and the north end or outlet is separated from 
 Crummock Water by a fertile plain of meadows. 
 
 The chapel of ease is a small ancient buildin<r, 
 scarcely capable of holding more than two score 
 souls. " A man must be very insensible who would 
 not be touched with pleasure at the sight of this 
 chapel, so strikingly expressing by its diminutive 
 size, how small must be the congregation there 
 assembled, as it were, like one family; and pro- 
 claiming at the same time to the passenger, in con- 
 nection with the surrounding mountains, the depth 
 ot that seclusion in which the people live that has 
 rendered necessary the building of a separate place 
 ot worship for so few. The edifice is scarcely 
 larger than many of the single stones or fragments 
 ot rock which are scattered near it." 
 
 Scale Force is often visited from Buttermere. 
 I^romthe inn there is a foot-path, but over very 
 swampy ground ; it is, therefore, better to take a 
 
 i3 
 
II! 
 
 ri 
 
 90 
 
 CRUMMOCK PARK. 
 
 boat and row down Crummock Lake about a mile ; 
 on landing, a rugged path brings you to it. 
 
 " It springs at once, with sudden leap, 
 Down from the immeasurable steep, 
 From rock to rock, with shivering force rebounding, 
 The mighty cataract rushes." 
 
 This is the deepest fall, the water being hurled 
 downwards in one clear leap of one hundred and 
 fifty-six feet, next, in another of forty-four feet. 
 The chasm into which the waters sink, is from 
 twelve to twenty feet in width, and is between two 
 walls of sienite, beautifully covered with trees, 
 which have fixed their roots in the interstices, whilst 
 the sides are clad with a profusion of plants. The 
 coolness and dampness are very great, and will soon 
 warn the tourist from this stupendous scene. 
 
 CRUMMOCK LAKE 
 
 Is three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in 
 breadth, and twenty-two fathoms in depth. This 
 lake abounds in trout and char, and receives its 
 main supply of water from Buttermere, from which 
 it is parted by low flat meadows, that are little more 
 than half a mile in breadth. JNIelbreak rises ab- 
 ruptly on the west side ; Rannerdale Knott forms 
 a bold promontory projecting from Buttermere 
 Hawse, which advances up to Grasmire and White- 
 side, that close it on the east. Its waters flow 
 out by the Cocker under a pretty bridge. It has 
 three small islands, one a rock, the other covered 
 
 LOWES WATER. 
 
 91 
 
 with wood, but being too near the shore, they add 
 nothing to its beauty. 
 
 The best general views are from Buttermere 
 Hawse on the east, and from the road between 
 Scale Hill and Lowes Water. But the mountains 
 of this vale, and those at the head of Newlands, are 
 nowhere so impressive as from the bosom of this 
 lake, some of the loftiest rising from its very mar- 
 gin. The middle part of the lake presents the ut- 
 most grandeur. In passing along the eastern side 
 of this water to the inn at Scale Hill, after leaving 
 the hamlet of Langthwaite Green, the tourist has 
 a fine view of the rural and cultivated vale of Lor- 
 ton, with the Cocker winding its way along a rocky 
 channel, sparkling with numerous cascades, be- 
 tween banks fringed with wood. The vale is about 
 three miles in length, bounded by lofty mountains, 
 and is a parochial chapelry under Brigham. 
 
 Scale Hill is a commodious inn, where boats may 
 be had, and from whence Lowes Water may be most 
 conveniently visited. 
 
 LOWES WATER 
 
 Is a narrow lake, extending more than a mile in 
 length, and from five to ten fathoms in depth. It 
 is tame at its head, the water being bordered with 
 little cultivated estates, the dwelling-houses in the 
 centre, and the green enclosures lying around ; but 
 when viewed in the contrary direction, it presents a 
 magnificent assemblage of mountains at its outlet, 
 
92 
 
 NEWLANDS. 
 
 where its waters flow out, passing the Hamlet into 
 Crummock Water. The mountains that lie around 
 are high and rocky, rising abruptly from their bases, 
 and assuming conical forms. The declivities are 
 covered with brushwood and scattered trees, addino- 
 greatly to the romantic and diversified scenery of 
 the country. 
 
 The stranger may proceed to Cockermouth 
 through Lorton, or return by Whitehaven, or re- 
 tracing his ground to Buttermere chapel, pass 
 through Newlands. 
 
 The road over Whinlatter presents some grand 
 views of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, "oris- 
 dale Pike keeping you company on the right for 
 some distance. On the top of the road, Thorn- 
 thwaite village and Jenkin Hill, flanked right and 
 left by Longside and Dodd, and Thornthwaite Fell, 
 with Bassenthwaite Water overtopped by Binsey, 
 is the first prospect that stops you. A little fur- 
 ther on, Derwent Water, with Vicar's Island, Lord's 
 Island, the Isthmus, and Keswick, are seen lying 
 beneath Wallow Crag, Falcon Crag, and Bleabury 
 Fell ; over which rise Skiddaw, Saddleback, Mell 
 Fell, Wanthwaite Crag, St. John's Dodd, Stybar- 
 row Dodd, Styx, and Helvellyn. The road pro- 
 ceeds through Braithwaite to Keswick. 
 
 NEWLANDS. 
 
 The road through Newlands leaves the chapel 
 of Buttermere, and advances by a very steep and 
 
 NEWLANDS. 
 
 93 
 
 long ascent between Robinson and Whiteless Hill. 
 These mountains present nothing but endless grassy 
 slopes, which is the characteristic of the scenery all 
 the way till you get down to Keskadale, the first 
 houses in Newlands. The views in this valley are 
 chiefly of a rural description, adorned with all the 
 beauties of luxuriant nature, and decorated with 
 wood. The mountains are beautiful and picturesque 
 in their forms, generally green to their summits, 
 looking down upon comfortable houses, seated amid 
 enclosures of emerald verdancy, irrigated and re- 
 freshed by gentle streams, now lost amidst the lux- 
 uriant growth of leafy trees, now betraying them- 
 selves by their bright sparkling. On the right, a 
 fine branch of this vale extends to Dale Head, 
 guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High 
 Crag, on the north by Goldscope and Hindsgarth. 
 At Stony Croft Bridge the road turns on the left 
 to Cockermouth ; and at Stair Mill is the way to 
 Newlands chapel, which is under Crossthwaite. 
 A rude bridge here forms a picture with Causey 
 Pike. The traveller will now get a pretty glimpse 
 of Bassenthwaite, screened by Barrow and Swin- 
 side, with Caer Mot in the distance. Between Foe 
 Park and Swinside is a retrospective view, beauti- 
 ful and grand, of Newlands. Through Portinscale 
 we shall again arrive at Keswick, of which we must 
 now prepare ourselves to take leave. 
 
 Hence we shall proceed to Carlisle and its neigh- 
 bourhood, returning through the vale of Eden to 
 Penrith. The stranger, however, who has not 
 
94 
 
 NEWLANDS. 
 
 NEWLANDS. 
 
 95 
 
 time for this lengthened excursion may pass directly 
 to Penrith. The little deviation on the left, avoid- 
 ing the barren waste of Hutton Moor for the pur- 
 pose of seeing Greystoke Castle and church, will 
 amply repay him : it is the residence of H. How- 
 ard, Esq., to whom it was bequeathed by the late 
 Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 Four miles and a half from Keswick on the Pen- 
 rith road, is Threlkeld, an irregular built village, 
 on the south side of Blencathra, with a fine view 
 up the vale of Wanthwaite; the chapel is dedicated 
 to Saint Mary, and is in the parish of Greystoke. 
 At Scales, the tourist must turn off under Souter 
 Fell along the bye-road, not very passable for car- 
 riages, though it is formed on a terrace, and com- 
 pletely overlooks the valley, through which winds 
 the Glenderamaken ; a small stream trickling out of 
 a dreary waste is seen joining it ; its banks are 
 fringed with wood and enclosures, chiefly corn-fields 
 spotted with farm-steads, and spread a short distance 
 on each side, overlooked by White Pike ; and in the 
 west, the mountains beyond Keswick rise in majes- 
 tic array. Souter Fell has acquired some notoriety 
 as having been the scene of meteorological appear- 
 ances, which were observed some considerable time 
 back. In an opening between it and Bowscale Fell, 
 through which the Glenderamaken flows from Scales 
 Tarn, is Mungrisdale, where is a chapel of the 
 usual oblong form, with a bell-gable and porch : 
 this is a miserable situation, and seems to be expos- 
 ed to all the winds of heaven, being placed exactly 
 
 at the elbow of that mountain mass which compre- 
 hends Skiddaw and Blencathra as its summits, and 
 the Dodd, Carrick and High Pike, Bowscale, and 
 Souter Fell, as the buttresses. The water-mill, and 
 the green-swelling conical fells behind, form a pretty 
 enough picture. At Bowscale, in the gorge of 
 another opening, the road crosses the Cafdew, 
 where it issues out from its birth-place in the wild 
 and solitary regions of Skiddaw Forest, solitary in 
 all but its abundance of grouse, which is strictly 
 preserved by the Earl of Egremont, the lord of the 
 manor. Mossdale, where there is a Quakers' 
 meeting-house, at the foot of Carrick Fell, is not 
 more pleasantly situated than Grisdale ; indeed, the 
 tourist now comes upon a portion of country wild 
 and desolate in the extreme, yet interesting to the 
 geologist. ^ On the left is Carrick Fell, its front 
 strewed with immense masses of rock and rivers of 
 debris which encroach on the road below : on the 
 right is a dismal swamp or peat-moss, bounded by 
 the heavy uniform ridge of Greystoke Park on the 
 east side. After toiling over the common for five 
 miles, leaving this dreary scene, you descend for' a 
 mile through a lane bordered with fertile lands and 
 hedge-rows planted with trees, amongst which the 
 blue curling smoke betrays at intervals the low- 
 roofed cottages and farm-steads. Almost at the 
 end of this lane you pass another Friends' meeting- 
 house and cemetery, placed in a scene of quiet and 
 peaceful solitude. A wild brook washes across the 
 road, and with the wooden bridge for foot-passen- 
 
96 
 
 THE HOWK. 
 
 gers and the little cascade below, is a pleasing 
 feature at the entrance of the neat little town of 
 Hesket-New-Market, agreeably seated in the open 
 vale. The Old Hall, much modernized, stands on 
 the right as you leave the town for Caldbeck. 
 
 This is a large straggling village ; the houses 
 seem to have been dropped down without order or 
 connection over the wide rambling valley at the foot 
 of High Pike and Carrick. The church, standing 
 on the brink of the Caldbeck, is a very ancient 
 structure, dedicated to Saint Kentigern, and bear- 
 ing date 1112. On the stream which pours down 
 from High Pike through this village, is that strik- 
 ing curiosity, 
 
 THE HOWK, 
 
 Which is a deep waterfall in the bed of the river, 
 over which is a natural bridge of limestone rock. 
 Under this bridge the stream rushes with great im- 
 petuosity, and dashing along over rugged rocks, it 
 empties itself into a basin boiling in whirling eddies, 
 covered with foam. The intertwining branches of 
 oak, ash, and hazel, intercepting the sun's rays, 
 throw a dense gloom over the recess even at noon- 
 day ; whilst the long dark weeds and matted grass 
 hang over the wave-worn rock in rich festoons, in- 
 terlaced with bright green ferns. On one side is a 
 deep excavation called the Fairy's Kettle, the re- 
 ceptacle in time of floods of another cascade that 
 falls about twenty yards down perpendicular rocks: 
 
 ROSE CASTLE. 
 
 97 
 
 a httle to the right of which is a cavern eio-hteen 
 yards long, called the Fairy Kirk, in which the 
 noise of the cataract has an imposing effect : this 
 and the Kettle, which is then filled, are inaccessi- 
 ble at high floods. The finest approach to this in- 
 terestmg scene is, by permission, up the north side 
 of the ravme, which is feathered with wood. The 
 bridges over this water further down, the church, 
 and the rectory, form some good pictures. 
 
 The road hence leads over Warnell Fell, havino- 
 on the right the Hall, once the seat of the Dent 
 tons, now belonging to Lord Lonsdale, built on a 
 hill-side, profusely scattered over with wood, and 
 It. base laved by the Caldew. Welton on the top 
 ot the hill, enjoys an extensive prospect of what is 
 generally allowed to be one of the pleasantest vales 
 in the county, that of Sebergham. 
 
 ROSE CASTLE. 
 
 The pedestrian, indeed, might pass down as far 
 as Rose Castle by the banks of the river, a route 
 that would greatly enhance his pleasure; but the 
 tourist who possesses the accommodation of a car- 
 nage, must be content with a passing look of the 
 vale as he proceeds along the heights, down which 
 the road presently descends to Rose Castle, the 
 episcopal seat of the Bishop of Carlisle. The 
 Honourable and Right Reverend Hugh Percy has 
 nearly re-edified the whole castle, which, Vrom 
 having been repaired at different times, according 
 
98 
 
 ROSE CASTLE. 
 
 ROSE CASTLE. 
 
 99 
 
 to the prevalent taste in architecture, had assumed 
 an appearance incongruous with its original castel- 
 lated style. The castle presents a fine mass of 
 towers built on the north side of the vale, sur- 
 rounded by hanging gardens that rise, terrace above 
 terrace, up to the level lawn on which it stands. 
 The keep, or Strickland's Tower, is a little de- 
 tached, and partially covered with ivy. The en- 
 trance-hall between BelFs Tower, almost concealed 
 by creepers, and Percy's Tower, which is quite 
 modern, contains the grand staircase of carved 
 English oak, the bannisters ornamented with roses 
 and shields alternately, leading to the chapel and 
 drawing-room. The chapel is lighted by a row 
 of windows on its south front, and is most chastely 
 fitted up with oaken stalls and wainscotting. The 
 reading-desk and pulpit are of the same substantial 
 materials ; and across the west end extends a series 
 of beautiful niches with elegant canopies, under one 
 of which is the bishop's seat. The dining-room 
 and library are on the ground floor ; the latter is 
 a fine apartment, elegantly and simply fitted up 
 with oaken cases. The fire-places throughout are 
 all of chiselled stone, richer or simpler in their de- 
 signs according to the uses of the apartment. The 
 new portions were designed by Mr. Rickman, under 
 the immediate superintendence of the Right Reve- 
 rend Bishop, to whose intimate acquaintance with 
 architecture is owing the absence of every thing 
 that could offend the most correct and fastidious 
 taste. The square embattled towers rise magnifi- 
 
 cently out of the noble forest trees, by which they 
 are partly surrounded and sheltered. The ap 
 proach is through an old archway covered with ivy. 
 The oaks and Scotch firs are splendid, and with the 
 meadows, the wooded hill, and the distant Fell of 
 Carrick, unite with the castle in producing scenery 
 rarely equalled for amenity and splendour. 
 
 Proceeding onwards. Holm Hill is on the right. 
 Not far from it is Hawksdale Hall, once the resi- 
 dence of Nicholson the antiquarian, who, in con- 
 junction with Chancellor Burn, wrote a History 
 of Cumberland and Westmorland, which no subse- 
 quent publications have as yet superseded. At 
 Oaks, the tourist cannot but admire the remaining 
 lordly oak that, with another, gave name to the 
 house. Here the vale of Dalston opens out to view, 
 presenting a scene of mixed fertility and desolation, 
 caused by the excessive rapidity and violence of the 
 Caldew's swollen waters. This village, or rather 
 knot of villages, is populous, being the seat of busy 
 cotton manufactories. The church is a plain 
 building, consisting of a nave, chancel, and south 
 transept. The bell-gable is curious. The chan- 
 eel has been lately repaired in the most tasteful 
 manner by the Lord Bishop, who is patron and im- 
 propriator. The walk hence along the wooded 
 banks of the river Caldew to Carlisle is charming. 
 
 Following, however, the high road, the only ob- 
 ject to be noticed is Dalston Hall, now used as a 
 farm-house. It has a venerable look of olden times : 
 the outline is varied with turrets and battlements. 
 
 k2 
 
100 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 Just below the parapet is a cornice ornamented with 
 stone cannon, in imitation of the early invented 
 ones, formed of bars of iron welded together, or 
 rings twisted. It has long passed from the famUy 
 of that name. A fine avenue of trees leads up to 
 it, and commands, from the rising ground, an ex- 
 tensive and beautiful prospect of Dalston, the vale, 
 the woods of Rose, and the distant fells. The 
 traces of a Roman encampment are observable in 
 front. Hence the city of Carlisle is in sight the 
 whole way, till you enter it by the suburbs of Shad- 
 dongate. 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 The limits of this work will not allow of a large 
 and minute description, but only of such particulars 
 as shall appear to be most interesting to the lake 
 tourist. 
 
 The city has lost many objects of antiquity, and 
 wears as neat, clean, and stately an aspect, as any 
 within the borders. It stands on a gentle eminence 
 in the midst of an extensive plain, watered by the 
 Petteril and Caldew, which here unite with the 
 Eden, and from their banks as foregrounds join in 
 pleasing combinations with the distant city. Ap- 
 proach it as you may, it is seen to great advantage. 
 From the south, after passing through the suburbs 
 of Botchergate, adorned with the new edifice of 
 Christ Church, the entrance is between the court- 
 houses, impressing the stranger with the not im- 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 101 
 
 probable idea that he is entering through the bas- 
 tions of a fortified city. The entranc°e from the 
 west is graced by Trinity Church of Gothic archi- 
 tecture, while admiration is excited by the Infirmary, 
 a noble Doric building, and in front frown the ram- 
 parts and massy keep of the Castle. The road 
 from Glasgow approaches the city from Stanwix 
 Bank, where the east or Newcastle road joining it, 
 they pass into the town over the substantial bridge 
 crossing the Eden. From the Newcastle road Is 
 presented the most picturesque view : the meadows 
 and woods of Rickerby, the bridges, and over them 
 the castle and cathedral, are the most strikino- ob- 
 jects. 
 
 This city is well supplied with public walks lying 
 around in various directions: these the tourist should 
 by all means perambulate, particularly those on the 
 northern banks of the river, along which passed the 
 Roman Wall. From Etterby Scar, lying on this 
 side of the river, a mile down the stream, is perhaps 
 the most extensive and lovely. On the brink of 
 the precipice the stranger takes his stand. At his 
 feet roll the rapid waters of the Eden, which he sees 
 forming a large semicircular sweep. Full in front 
 over a beautiful level tract of meadow, intersected 
 by the Caldew and partially divided by hedge-rows, 
 lies the city, the long high roofand square tower of 
 the cathedral crowning its highest ground. The cas- 
 tle, with its towers, and walls, and buttresses, occupies 
 the whole centre. On the right are the suburbs of 
 Caldewgate, the church, the canal basin, and ship- 
 
 K 3 
 
102 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 ping, with the infirmary ; and over all, far away, 
 are seen the range of mountans, amongst which we 
 have been so long roaming, Helvellyn just discern- 
 ible, Blencathra peeping over the Stack between 
 Carrock Fell and High Pike, beyond which towers 
 the noble Skiddaw. On the left again of the ca- 
 thedral, lies the densest part of the city, in whose ser- 
 rated ridge may be distinguished Saint Cuthbert's 
 Church, and the Town Hall, the round towers of the 
 Court Houses, and the slender spire of Christ Church, 
 in Botchergate. Over the lengthened bridge is a 
 tract of rich land, sprinkled with farm-steads and 
 seats ; and beyond the woods of Corby, the eastern 
 fells terminating in the distant but aspiring Cross- 
 fell. Nearer at hand, the high banks are enlivened 
 with the ancient village of Stanwix and the hamlet 
 of Etterby. By moving into the field behind, and 
 looking in the contrary direction, the panorama is 
 completed, from Criffel rising in azure over the long 
 silvery tide of the Sol way, which is visible, Burns- 
 wark, and the distant range of Scotch mountains, 
 to the crags, bounding the wastes of Gilsland and 
 Bewcastle. 
 
 The Castle is at the north-west corner of the city, 
 on a bold eminence overlooking the river Eden. 
 It was begun in the reign of William Rufus, since 
 which it has undergone many changes, and been 
 the scene of various historical occurrences. At 
 present it consists of a large area, surrounded by 
 strong walls, entered through an embattled ffate- 
 way, in which the portcullis still frowns, and within 
 
 103 
 
 are various buildings for infantry. An inner area 
 was originally defended by a half-moon battery, 
 nowremoved, though the gate-way remains, throu-h 
 which IS the approach to the great keep, at present 
 used as an armoury. The angular tower in which 
 Mary of Scotland was imi)risoned, has, after having 
 been appropriated to barracks, lately been taken 
 down. This fortress is now used as \he dep6t of 
 an infantry regiment, and a small detachment of 
 artdlerymen are stationed to take care of the ar- 
 moury. There is something very interesting in its 
 appearance, and it is chiefly valuable as a massy 
 feature, giving a character to the distant appear- 
 ance of the city. 
 
 The Cathedral is a noble building, deprived, 
 indeed, of the greatest part of its nave. What 
 remains is of ever-during Norman architecture, 
 with low round pillars and circular arches ; it is 
 now very neatly fitted up as the parish church of 
 St. Mary. The transepts are narrow, without 
 aisles, and of the same style ; from the south end 
 the cloisters originally extended ; the north transept 
 IS used as the consistory court. The choir is sup- 
 ported on clustered piers, with enriched capitals, 
 trom which spring eight pointed arches ; above is 
 an elegant triforium of three openings, and a cle- 
 restory which once had a rich parapet, pierced 
 with foliated circles, but wantonly destroyed. The 
 tabernacle work or stalls is of very elegant carved 
 oak black with age. The pulpit and throne are 
 modern, and not so rich in design. The roof is 
 
104 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 105 
 
 vaulted in stucco, with cross springers. The east 
 window is by far the finest decorated window in 
 the kingdom ; it consists of nine lights, and the 
 head is filled with the richest flowing tracery con- 
 ceivable ; it is, however, painful to add, that it is 
 in a state of rapid decay. The north and south 
 aisles of the choir are similar in character, and ter- 
 minated by windows of two lights. Beneath the 
 sill of the aisle windows a row of beautiful niches 
 is continued all round. In the north aisle Dr. 
 Palev lies buried — a fine mural monument simply 
 recording his name and age. In the choir. Bishops 
 Law and Smith are interred, both eminent in their 
 generation. The prevaihng style of the choir is 
 early English, the east end being decorated. The 
 entrance into the abbey is under an ancient gate- 
 way, havino^ a circular arch, round which is an in- 
 scription purporting its having been built by Chris- 
 topher Slee, Prior. Within the precincts are the 
 deanery and prebendal houses, the fratry, and 
 register office. The deanery contains, in its 
 square tower built by Prior Senhouse, a fine apart- 
 ment used as a drawing-room, whose ceiling is 
 worthy of inspection : it is of oak, carved in square 
 pannels, the intersecting knots being highly adorned, 
 and the whole painted in difierent colours, with 
 armorial bearings emblazoned on shields, and mot- 
 toes scattered about. The fratry or refectory of 
 the ancient priory is now used as the chapter-room ; 
 the south front is lighted by a row of elegantly- 
 proportioned windows of the Tudor style, the op- 
 
 posite wall is ornamented with three niches, whose 
 crocketted canopies are delicately chiselled and sup- 
 ported by slender pillars. In this building is a 
 curious stone chair, having an impanelled foliated 
 ceiling, called the confessional. From the Abbey 
 the Cathedral is seen in the best point of view ; a 
 low square and embattled tower rises over the in- 
 tersection of the cross. The east end cannot be 
 viewed but in pieces : its centre is filled by the mag- 
 nificent window, on each side of which rise buttresses 
 with crocketted pinnacles ; the gable is adorned 
 with crosses, and its blank space filled with a right 
 angled spherical window. The design of this 
 front is one of grandeur, the great size of the win- 
 dow, the boldness of the buttresses, and the rich- 
 ness of the crockets, crosses, and finials, unite in 
 rendering it the admiration of ail. The north side 
 of the cathedral forms a fine street-scene, with the 
 row of trees around its church-yard wall, which 
 has been lately rebuilt and surmounted by cast-iron 
 rails, the very elegant design for which was hand- 
 somely furnished by R. W. Billings, Esq. 
 
 The Church of St. Cuthbert is a plain modern 
 building. Trinity Church, in Caldewgate, and 
 Christ Church are new, having been lately built by 
 the aid of subscriptions from the inhabitants and 
 from the Church Building Commissioners. The 
 former is of the Tudor, the latter of early English 
 architecture, and both have spires, rising from 
 square towers, though in a diff'erent manner. 
 
 At the head of Castle-street, near the Market- 
 
 ! ' 
 
 'I; 
 
106 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 107 
 
 place, stands that excellently-conducted inn and 
 posting-house, the Crown and Mitre Hotel and 
 Coffee House, better known by its latter name. 
 Opposite the Bush Inn, which is also well-known 
 on the road as a superior posting-house and hotel, 
 stands the News-room and Library, built by private 
 subscription, from the designs of Mr. Rickman, 
 who was also architect for the churches. The 
 County Gaol and Court-houses were designed by 
 Smirke. One of the circular towers forms the Nisi 
 Prius Court ; the other, connected with the prison, 
 the Crown Court. The prison is on the radiated 
 plan, the governor's house being in the centre, and 
 communicatino: bv means of f^alleries with the dif- 
 ferent wards. The Infirmary, near the canal, will 
 repay the walk, besides the fresh views of the town 
 gained in this direction. It is built on a very con- 
 venient plan, and has a centre portico of four large 
 Doric pillars, supporting a pediment. The merits 
 of its situation have been a subject of much dispute ; 
 but what is still worse, owing to litigation between 
 the contractor and the building committee, although 
 finished some time past, it has not yet been opened 
 for its purposes of benevolence. 
 
 The city of Carlisle has a police establishment, 
 is lighted with gas, and is under the municipal con- 
 trol of a corporation, composed of mayor, aldermen, 
 and common councilmen. It returns two members 
 to Parliament, and is now the nomination place for 
 the eastern division of the county. 
 
 It is a place of great manufacturing bustle, 
 
 chiefly in cotton, hats, and whips. The cotton 
 trade gives employment to numbers of persons en- 
 gaged in spinning and hand-loom weaving. The 
 markets are well supplied with almost every thing 
 that can gratify the palate of the gourmand, and 
 at rates so low as to render it, in these respects, a 
 very desirable place of residence for persons of 
 Hmited fortune, but accustomed to luxurious indul- 
 gences. The Grammar School, founded by Bishop 
 Smith, affords an opportunity of obtaining an eco- 
 nomical English and classical education. With 
 regard to institutions for promoting the education 
 of the poor, supplying their necessities, whether in 
 food, or medicine, or medical attendance, the Dis- 
 pensary and House of Recovery, the National School, 
 the Lancasterian School, and others, fully attest 
 that Carlisle is no whit behind the most favoured 
 towns. It is also an excellent place whence con- 
 veyance may be obtained to all parts of the king- 
 dom ; mails daily leave the city for Portpatrick 
 and Belfast, Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London by 
 way of Leeds and Manchester; besides several 
 stage-coaches. The Newcastle and Carlisle Rail- 
 way offers opportunities four times a-day of travel- 
 ling between those places; and from the canal 
 basin, a swift fly-boat conveys passengers to Bow- 
 ness on the Solway, whence they can be comforta- 
 bly and safely conveyed to Liverpool either by the 
 Royal Victoria, City of Carlisle, or Newcastle 
 steam-packets, in a single tide. 
 
 We shall now proceed from Carlisle in an east- 
 
 M 
 
108 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 
 erly direction by the military way leading to Bramp- 
 ton : this road runs parallel to the Roman Wall, 
 which lies rather more to the north or left hand, 
 along a higher ridge of land. The first village you 
 pass through is Crosby, whose plain unpretending 
 church stands by the way-side. Two miles further, 
 at a cross-road, is a Roman Castrum, planted with 
 fir-trees. Leaving the main road here, and passing 
 down this lane, you will shortly open upon the 
 circular, rural, and well-cultivated vale of which 
 Irthington and its church form pretty features. 
 Round sandy knowes jut into the plain, watered by 
 the Irthing and Kirkcambeck streams, and the sur- 
 rounding banks are planted with wood. The nave 
 of the church, which has been originally larger, is 
 separated from the chancel by a noble Norman 
 aisle, sadly disfigured, however, by being wretch- 
 edly painted in imitation of blue marble. In this 
 church-vard lies buried Richard Bowman, who lived 
 to be one hundred and eighteen years old, retaining 
 the use of his faculties to the last. Hence after 
 crossing: the water of Kirkcambeck, the tourist will 
 pass in front of the elegant and modern residence 
 of Walton House, belonging to W\ Ponsonby John- 
 son, Esq., built on the site of the Roman Casteads. 
 Several Roman remains dug up at this station are 
 preserved here. A little further stands the village 
 of Walton, on the line of wall, as its name denomi- 
 nates. From hence the road descends to King- 
 water, over which there is a long wooden bridge ; 
 this water rises in a dreary waste ; its banks are 
 
 LANERCOST ABBEY. 
 
 109 
 
 fertile, but the ridges which bound it on the north, 
 or separate it from the Irthing, parallel to which it 
 flows for some distance, are naked, cold, and unin- 
 viting. A sudden turn down the hill, on the top 
 of which the traveller has been proceeding for a 
 mile or two, presents the sweet smiling Holm of 
 St. Mary. On the right, fine woods clothe the 
 swelling ridges which die away in the meadows 
 below, in the midst of which, rising from among 
 majestic elms, are seen the venerable ruins of 
 Lanercost Abbey, backed by the woods that slope 
 down from the baronial castle of Naworth to the 
 clear murmuring streams of the Irthing. 
 
 LANERCOST ABBEY. 
 
 The grey ruins of Lanercost, approached through 
 the remains of a gateway, covered with ivy, stand 
 a little distance from the Irthing on its northern 
 banks, in the green holms of St. Mary. This 
 Monastery was founded in 1 1 16, by Robert de Val- 
 libus, for monks of the order of St. Augustine, 
 chartered in the sixteenth year of Henry II., A.D. 
 1 169, and dedicated by Bernard, Bishop of Carlisle, 
 to Mary Magdalene. 
 
 The church consists of a nave with north aisle, 
 transepts with aisles east of them, used as monu- 
 mental chapels and choir. The western front is 
 one of great beauty and simplicity ; a magnificent 
 door, pointed and of many mouldings, fills the 
 lowest compartment ; above it runs a string of 
 
no 
 
 LANERCOST ABBEY. 
 
 elegant niches, then seven long tall lancets fill the 
 whole length of the front, having the alternate 
 ones only pierced for lights; in the gable is a niche 
 containing a statue of the Virgin and Child, and 
 on each side, shields charged with the armorial 
 cognizances of the abbey and the Dacres, and the 
 top is crowned by the fragments of a beauteous 
 cross. The nave is fitted up as the parish church, 
 and is lighted by a row of eight clerestory windows ; 
 these have the toothed ornament, the only kind used, 
 which, with the cornice that runs round the whole 
 building, give a rich appearance to the general plan 
 of the exterior. The low Norman tower rising 
 about a square in height above the roof, is support- 
 ed by massive angular piers. The transepts and 
 choir are unroofed, and suffered to go to decay. 
 The opposite sides of the choir are different in their 
 architecture, and the transepts respectively partake 
 of it. Tall circular piers, with only the clerestory 
 windows above, is the disposition of the south side ; 
 whilst the north has low massive circular piers and 
 a triforium as well as clerestory. The east end is 
 lighted by two tiers of lancet windows, three in 
 each ; this and the south side are now profusely 
 covered with ivy and mountain ashes ; wall-flowers 
 wave over the other parts, and diffuse their fragrance 
 in the air. There are several monuments in this 
 part of the church belonging to the Dacres, to 
 whom the Abbey lands fell at the dissolution, and to 
 the Howards their successors. Two of the monu- 
 ments belonging to the Dacres are under ogee 
 
 LANERCOST ABBEY. 
 
 ill 
 
 canopies, and ornamented with quatrefoils and 
 shields of arms. The Howards, are more gorge- 
 ously decorated with all the insignia of armorial 
 blazonry. Unfortunately little care has been taken 
 of these splendid tombs ; the long dank grass and 
 weeds and moss are fast defacing these proud me- 
 morials of the haughty barons, once lords of this 
 beautiful domain. 
 
 The cloisters run parallel with the south side of 
 the conventual church, and have been connected 
 with it. The groininff is early Enfj^lish, wath cross 
 springers diverging from a row of piers running up 
 the middle and from pilasters on the sides. The 
 dormitory which was above, is now a garden, so 
 that there is a constant dropping and dampness 
 below. There are some Roman antiquities which 
 have been found in the neighbourhood, preserved 
 here. Of the remainder of the conventual build- 
 ings we may observe a square tower, with square 
 muUioned windows, three stories in height, which 
 was erected, or at least considerably repaired, in 
 the sixteenth century, by the bastard Dacre for his 
 residence. Another tower, with the Tudor flower 
 in the cornice, forms part of the residence of the 
 present aged curate of Lanercost. In the church- 
 yard is the recumbent eflBgy of a knight, having the 
 hands clasped on the breast. 
 
 This Abbey forms fine pictures from the grounds 
 
 of Naworth and the surrounding woods. The best 
 
 near view is from the corner of the area in which 
 
 it stands, under the wide-spreading elms ; hence the 
 
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112 
 
 NAWORTH CASTLE. 
 
 NAWORTH CASTLE. 
 
 113 
 
 west front, the north side, and north transept, are 
 presented, conveying an idea of magnitude and 
 grandeur to the beholder, which no other point of 
 view gives. The east end with the north transept 
 again, is another noble picture from amidst the 
 numerous tombs of the church-yard. 
 
 There is a decent inn at the bridge, where refresh- 
 ment may be procured. From the bridge, which 
 crosses the river by two bold arches, a public 
 carriage-road leads through the park to 
 
 NAWORTH CASTLE. 
 
 Here, however, we should recommend the car- 
 riage to be sent up to the Castle, while the stranger 
 pursues the banks of the Irthing by a footpath 
 which leads to the right from the river up a deep 
 ravine, whose steep sides wave with aged woods. 
 The oaks are splendid, and the grey turrets and 
 battlements of the Castle seen in combination with 
 them, impress the mind with feelings of solemn 
 grandeur. 
 
 A short distance in front of the keep is a circular 
 bastion or barbican. The keep stands a little in 
 advance of the main body of the Castle, and over the 
 archway are carved in bold relief the armorial bear- 
 ings of the family. The Castle forms a complete 
 quadrangle, the front being an extended curtain, 
 battlemented, and connecting the two square and 
 lofty towers at the angles. Having entered this 
 through a small passage, you stand in the court- 
 
 yard, and those who have visited Cambrido-e or 
 Oxford will be struck with its resemblance to some 
 of the college quadrangles. On one side a flight 
 of steps leads to the long ancient hall, in which are 
 a succession of portraits of the English kings, and 
 some rude wooden armorial emblems brought from 
 Kirkoswald Castle, besides figures clad in plate 
 armour, one in that belonging to Lord William 
 Howard. The chapel is in another angle ; its ceil- 
 ing is adorned with the genealogical tree of the 
 Dacres and Howards. Both the hall and chapel 
 are lighted with perpendicular windows, whose mul- 
 lions are embattled. The state drawing-room and 
 bed-room, with their tapestried walls and decaying 
 furniture, show the poor comfort that the nobles of 
 old times enjoyed, compared with what even poor 
 people possess at present. The gallery is enriched 
 with a few portraits, and several good specimens of 
 ancient armour. But the chief objects of curiosity 
 are the apartments of Lord William Howard, which 
 are entered through a small door-way, strongly 
 barred by a massy iron door, having the pannels 
 filled with oak, and strengthened with a couple of 
 bolts of corresponding dimensions. One person at 
 a time only can enter; then the stair-case winds 
 spirally up to the oratory and study, similarly pro- 
 tected, and thus rendering the access still more 
 difficult. His bed is still preserved, but sadly tat- 
 tered and torn by persons anxious to possess some 
 memorial of Belted Will, the severe but salutary 
 
 scourge of a race of bold, reckless, murderous 
 
 L 3 
 
 ^ggjgg^^^y^g^^ 
 
114 
 
 NAWORTH CASTLE. 
 
 moss-troopers. His books, at least some of them, 
 remain to show what his studies were in those 
 intervals, which his important and busy and watch- 
 ful situation as Lord Warden of the Marches 
 allowed for such peaceful, soul-soothing pursuits. 
 The ceiling is of massy oak, in plain intersecting 
 pannels. The dungeons below are arched and 
 without light ; the rings still remain to which men, 
 whose fierce untamed nature could not otherwise 
 be subdued, or taught that there was neither 
 honour nor glory in such wild raids and burnings, 
 were chained and treated as the wild beasts of the 
 forests. And the tourist will haply think how 
 blessed he is, that his line has been thrown upon 
 quiet waters and in such peaceful times, and under 
 a constitution that both wills and enables every 
 man to sit under his own vine, and eat with thank- 
 fulness the labour of his own hands. There are 
 other apartments which are kept for the Earl of 
 Carlisle and his family, whenever thev visit this 
 part of their possessions. The Castle is situated 
 on the tongue of a precipice, surrounded on all 
 sides by deep glens, except the front, from which 
 the park extends up a gradually-rising ground, so 
 that to the spectator approaching from Brampton 
 it appears very low. 
 
 Hence the tourist may pass to Gilsland Spa, 
 which is further up the vale, between high banks 
 and precipices, where the river Irthing, emerging 
 from the desolate heath-clad moors in which it 
 springs, turns westward into the pleasant haughs 
 
 GILSLAND SPA. 
 
 115 
 
 of Denton and Lanercost. The antiquarian will 
 prefer travelling from Lanercost to Gilsland, 
 along the heights of the northern bank, as he 
 will have an opportunity of examining the Roman 
 Wall, more especially at Birdoswald, the Amblo- 
 gana of the Romans, where the mass of the wall is 
 visible, though its facings are gone. 
 
 GILSLAND SPA 
 
 Is a place of great resort, and in point of salu- 
 brity and natural beauty, it is far superior to many 
 spas of modern celebrity in the northern part of the 
 island. 
 
 From the Railway Station at Rose Hill, a good 
 carriage- road leads up in a gradual ascending sweep, 
 passing a beautiful mansion called the Orchard 
 House, until it reaches the Shaws Hotel, which stands 
 upon an eminence skirted with fine wood. This 
 hotel has recently been thoroughly repaired, enlarg- 
 ed, and remodelled, and now presents good accom- 
 modation to family parties and visitors, whether 
 for health or pleasure. From a terrace-garden in 
 front there is an extensive view, embracing a con- 
 siderable portion of the line of the Newcastle and 
 Carlisle Railway, reaching from Greenhead down 
 towards Naworth Castle. 
 
 Behind the hotel is a field with walks and seats, 
 exhibiting various windings of the Irthing, in its 
 course from the wild fells in the waste. This field 
 covers the mass of rocky strata, at the foot of which, 
 
 fiaajtasir »?j>a 
 
116 
 
 GILSLAND SPA. 
 
 and on the margin of the river, the celebrated spa 
 issues into day. The strata below the surface 
 mould are said to be disposed in the followino- 
 order : — First, a course of stratified sandstone, then 
 bituminous shale, which includes a stratum of 
 aluminous schistus, and next porphyry slate, be- 
 neath which the sulphurated water issues through 
 a leaden tube, enclosed in a small stone fountain, at 
 the rate of two gallons and a half per minute. The 
 whole height of the precipice is about 90 feet. The 
 strata are intersected by two veins, one upon each 
 side of the sulphurated water, which commencing 
 at the surface, approximate pretty uniformly until 
 they reach the river, at which place they are about 
 150 yards distant. These veins are composed of 
 calcareous spar and iron pyrites, and contain the 
 above-mentioned strata between them. 
 
 This water is remarkably transparent ; when 
 poured from one tumbler into another, it sparkles 
 very briskly. To most palates the taste is very 
 agreeable, being somewhat accidulous, and it has 
 generally been found to sit lightly on the stomach. 
 The smell is so strongly impregnated with sulphur 
 as to extend to the distance of several yards. It 
 was originally known by the name of the Holy Well, 
 also by that of Wardrew Spa, the latter name 
 beino^ taken from the tenement and farm on the 
 Northumberland side of the water, and which ap- 
 pears to have been, at one time, the only original 
 place of entertainment. The present mansion was 
 erected in 1752, and is a large and elegantly- 
 
 GTLSLAND SPA. 
 
 117 
 
 finished place, though now in a state of great 
 dilapidation. 
 
 These waters may be employed either externally 
 or internally in a diversity of diseases, with great 
 success. There are hot and cold baths fitted up in 
 the immediate contiguity of the spring, and also at 
 the hotel. In drinking the water, no other pre- 
 caution or preparation seems necessary than that 
 of commencing with moderation. Time and ex- 
 perience have proved its virtues ; and during the 
 last century up to the present time, it has been used 
 both externally and internally with amazing success. 
 
 The walk from the hotel down to the spa is short, 
 dry in all weathers, and rather too steep, and will 
 be found inconveniently so on the return by the 
 invalid, although seats are placed at suitable dis- 
 tances, to render the fatigue as light as possible. 
 At the bottom of the hill the path is continued 
 along the water's brink, on a paved terrace to the 
 spa. On the right, adjoining the river, are some 
 plain buildings for the baths, and immediately across 
 the water, a number of large stepping-stones enable 
 you to visit the opposite banks, which are finely 
 wooded, and offer several interesting views from 
 various open points. 
 
 Gilsland is a very favourable station for persons 
 engaged either in picturesque or antiquarian pur- 
 suits. The Roman Wall may be examined in its 
 course, from the Crags in Northumberland to its 
 entrance at Birdoswald in Cumberland. Thirlwall 
 Castle, on the Tippal, is within a short walk : 
 
118 
 
 BRAMPTON. 
 
 CORBY CASTLE. 
 
 119 
 
 Blenkinsopp Castle may be looked at in a tour to 
 Featherstone Castle, reposing amidst rich haughs 
 ennobled with trees on the South Tyne. Naworth 
 Castle and Lanercost Priory may also be examined; 
 they lie down the river Irthing, along the banks of 
 which is a very pleasant bridle road. And the 
 tourist, who has time and curiosity enough, will reap 
 no little satisfaction from a ride over the northern 
 moors, passing Triermain Castle to Bewcastle, 
 where are the ruins of an ancient castle, within a 
 Roman encampment, and a very remarkable Runic 
 pillar. 
 
 From Lanercost or Naworth it is two miles to 
 Brampton, an irregular-built market-town. Hence 
 to Low Gelt Bridge is two miles, past the Capon 
 Tree, which has once been a magnificent oak, now 
 venerable in its decay, and protected by a belt of 
 beech trees. The High Sheriff usually met the 
 Judges of Assize here, where they partook of a 
 luncheon under its then spreading branches. It 
 deserves a place in any collection of remarkable 
 forest-trees. To Carlisle the cavalcade proceeded 
 at full gallop, owing to the insecurity of the roads, 
 from their contiguity to the Borders. Up the river 
 Gelt are the Written Rocks — the precipitous face 
 of a stratum of red freestone has had a Roman in- 
 scription, showing that these quarries have been 
 wrought by this people, and which is preserved 
 by Horsley, for the antiquarian will in vain search 
 for it. The walk up this glen, by the side of the 
 river, through the quarries to Middle Gelt Bridge, 
 
 is splendid ; immense masses of rock beetle over the 
 glen, whose sides are feathered with ash, and beech, 
 and hazel, whilst the river winds its mazy way 
 between, now in whirling eddies over deep pools, 
 now in foaming water-breaks over moss-ground 
 rocks. The Railway between Carlisle and New- 
 castle crosses the water and ravine by a grand 
 bridge of three arches, about eighty feet in height, 
 springing from rustic piers, which harmonise with 
 the scenery in the most effective manner. 
 
 Through the very neat village of Hayton, it is 
 about four miles further, along a good country 
 road to the village of Great Corby, near which is 
 
 CORBY CASTLE, 
 
 The seat of H. Howard, Esq. The building has 
 been so much altered by the addition of two new 
 fronts in the Grecian style, as no longer to wear 
 the appearance of a Castle. It stands upon the 
 brink of a lofty precipice, overhanging the Eden, 
 which is seen from the lawn in front flowing down 
 with a divided stream, between two high banks pro- 
 fusely clothed with umbrageous woods, the village, 
 church, and priory gateway of Wetheral, crowning 
 the western receding sides. The walks through 
 the park carry the visitor for a mile along the edge 
 of impending rocks, adorned with several noble 
 specimens of the oak, then turning down to the 
 water's edge, bring him in a circuit back to the 
 house. From a wooden seat about half-way in the 
 
120 
 
 CORBY CASTLE, 
 
 WETHERAL. 
 
 121 
 
 return, there is a romantic peep across the water, 
 through an opening in the trees, of the cells of St. 
 Constantine, excavated in the front of the preci- 
 pice, forty feet above the raving flood below, and 
 overhung by steep towering crags, overshadowed 
 with trees, amid which the gnarled branches and 
 roots of aged oaks are seen fantastically twisting 
 forward. From the Templetto, a small Grecian 
 edifice, neatly fitted up, and the wall painted in 
 fresco .with Swiss scenery, is a rich view of the 
 house at the extremity of a green vista, whose sward, 
 shaven close and smooth, sweeps upwards between 
 ivy-clasped oaks, sycamores, noble pines, and ma- 
 jestic Scotch firs. Advancing by this mossy car- 
 pet, which stretches along the margin of the river, 
 the magnificent bridge for the Railway greatly 
 enriches the prospect, extending from cliff to cliff; 
 the river rolls away under five lofty arches, eighty 
 feet in span, and ninety feet above its surface. The 
 walks that extend along the banks to the north of 
 the Castle present superior views of Wetheral, but 
 they are reserved for the private use of the family. 
 The interior of the Castle is elegantly fitted up, 
 and contains a collection of paintings. The grounds 
 are open to strangers on Wednesdays only. 
 
 At the foot of the village of Corby, another 
 noble bridge of seven arches crosses a narrow glen. 
 Mr. Howard has formed a new approach to his re- 
 sidence, which passes through beneath the centre 
 arch of this viaduct. 
 
 WETHERAL 
 
 Is on the western banks of the river, and is a plea- 
 sant village with a charming green, at the distance 
 of four miles from Carlisle. The church is a neat 
 edifice of the perpendicular style, consisting of a nave 
 with aisles and clerestory windows, and a chancel 
 with north aisle, the burial-place of the Howards. 
 A modern tower stands at the west end. In the 
 chancel, on a table monument having its sides 
 adorned with foliated circles in squares, lie the mu- 
 tilated eflSgies of Sir Richard Salkeld, knight, and 
 his lady, the ancient possessors of Corby, from 
 whom that manor passed by purchase to the pre- 
 sent proprietors. The monumental chapel of the 
 Howards contains that masterpiece of Nollekins', 
 his monument to the first lady of H. Howard, Esq. 
 She was daughter of Lord Archer, and died in giving 
 birth to her first child. She is represented as half 
 reclining on, the tomb, the infant lying across her 
 lap, and an angel in a stooping posture directing 
 her upturned gaze to heaven. Further description is 
 needless : tender minds will always feel themselves 
 sensibly afifected by the contemplation of a fate so 
 melancholy, and that will be increased by the view 
 of it, pourtrayed as it is here in so touching a 
 manner. 
 
 The walks along the western banks are perhaps 
 as fine as those on the Corby grounds. The 
 woods are equally interesting, the rocks as precipi- 
 
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122 
 
 WETHERAL SAFEGUARDS. 
 
 WETHERAL PRIORY. 
 
 123 
 
 tous and more richlv adorned with mosses, and the 
 paths, if not so trim, are more in keeping, and lead 
 by natural windings through copse wood and flower- 
 ing broom, golden-blossomed whins, and tangled 
 briers. 
 
 WETHERAL SAFEGUARDS. 
 
 The Caves of St. Constantine, or Wetheral 
 Safeguards, may be explored. They are three in 
 number, deeply excavated, and protected by a breast- 
 work of masonry, in which is a fire-place and three 
 small lights. There is now a wooden gallery, by 
 which they are rendered accessible : formerly they 
 w^ere approached by a dangerous path from the 
 bottom, and gained by a ladder, which was after- 
 wards drawn up. Tradition says they were ori- 
 ginally the retreat of an ascetic of the name of 
 Constantine ; but it is far more probable that they 
 were formed by the monks of the priory, as places 
 of safety in w^hich to deposit their plate, vestments, 
 and relics. Since then, they have undoubtedly 
 been devoted to the same purposes by the inhabi- 
 tants, as safeguards in the disturbed state of the 
 Borders. 
 
 Further on is a summer-house, generally called 
 the Folly, which presents a view of unrivalled mag- 
 nificence. Far below, the Eden foams and thun- 
 ders over its rocky channel, which here pursues a 
 serpentine course ; on either hand steep banks 
 arise, hidden beneath the dense foliao^e of the Corby 
 
 and Wetheral woods. In front stands Corby Cas- 
 tle, and far away the blue highlands of the Borders. 
 Returning back along the summit of the woods, 
 you come to the small and interesting remains of 
 
 WETHERAL PRIORY, 
 
 Which was founded by Ranulph de Meschiens in 
 1088, for eight monks, and dedicated to the Holy 
 Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Constantine. It was 
 a dependent under the abbey of St. Mary's in York ; 
 on its dissolution, it was granted to the Dean and 
 Chapter of Carlisle. Nothing now is left but the 
 gateway, a square embattled tow^er of English per- 
 pendicular architecture. Over the very obtuse arch 
 of the gateway is a watch-room, having on each 
 side a small arched cell with slit-holes, commanding 
 the approach north and south. The rest of the site 
 is occupied by farm-buildings. . 
 
 The tourist may proceed up the river to Arma- 
 thwaite on either side ; we would, however, recom- 
 mend him to cross the water again to Corby, and 
 go from that village up the hill, passing the lodge 
 of the Castle. On the summit of the hill, let him 
 stop and take a farewell retrospective view. At 
 the bottom of the hill is Corby, amongst its smiling 
 gardens, and orchards, and noble woods ; stretching 
 across the glen are seen the majestic Roman arches 
 of the Viaduct ; the middle ground occupied by the 
 
 rich holms that extend as far as Warwick Hall, its 
 
 M 2 
 
124 
 
 WETHERAL PRIORY. 
 
 ARMATHWAITE. 
 
 125 
 
 village and church crowning the left banks of the 
 ground that descends with its hedge-rows down 
 to the river, which, though invisible, skirts it the 
 whole way. Below the ancient church of Warwick 
 is the newly-built bridge, and more to the right 
 is the busy manufacturing village. On the extreme 
 right, where the fells decline into the plain, the 
 white turrets of Edmund Castle and the tower of 
 Hay ton church are discernible, and that mass of 
 smoke marks the locality of Brampton. In the 
 front distance are scattered numerous seat-houses, 
 marking the line of the military road from Carlisle 
 to Newcastle ; and bevond, the blue distance termi- 
 nates in the uplands of Nichol Forest and the wild 
 district of Bewcastle, backed by the heath-clad hills 
 in the neighbourhood of Langholm. 
 
 The road leads through an extensive wood, and 
 past the village of Cumwhitton, for about five miles. 
 The Eden flows at a short distance through windinsr 
 vistas, where water, wood, and rock, holms, and 
 sloping banks, combine to produce scenes rarely 
 equalled, never surpassed, but seldom seen by stran- 
 gers, and therefore comparatively unknown. After 
 a rather dull road, you are presented with it rolling 
 down to you from Armathwaite past the pleasant 
 mansion of Low House. The road as a foreofround, 
 the river skirting its rocky and wooded banks on the 
 left, its meadows and haughs on the right, with the 
 blue smoke curling upwards from Armathwaite, 
 sheltered by the Cooms and Baron Wood, and 
 
 through the opening the distant range of mountanis, 
 of which the highest point, Helvellyn, is visible, 
 form altogether an exquisite landscape. 
 
 ARMATHWAITE 
 
 May also be reached bv a direct and better carriao-e- 
 road leading to it from Wetheral, along the west 
 side of the river Eden. It lies on both sides of the 
 river, which is crossed by a bridge of three bold 
 and graceful arches. The Castle is a plain square 
 tower, standing on the river's bank, fitted up so as 
 to meet the wants and comforts of modern refine- 
 ment. The chapel of ease is a rude picturesque 
 edifice, in the patronage of the owners of the Castle, 
 and incumbency of the Rev. W. Hudson. On the 
 eastern side is the elegant rural retreat of J. de 
 Whelpdale, Esq., of Bishopyards, in Penrith, sur- 
 rounded by lawns, and protected by some fine 
 plantations. An interesting walk through an 
 avenue of flourishing larches, leads for a mile along 
 the margin of a rapid eddying stream to the salmon 
 leaps, where the Eden pours over a rocky wear, 
 and forming a part of the great whinstone dyke, 
 which crosses the island, stretching across its whole 
 breadth. Above, the water forms a deep, still, 
 lake-like scene, rocks shoot up perpendicularly out 
 of it, and the immense masses of the Cooms and 
 Baron Wood, cast over it a deep gloomy shade — 
 
 "Awful scenes, that calm the troubled breast, 
 And woo the weary to profound repose." 
 
 M 3 
 
 j.w.-«rj **«■■>..■ 
 
 . jfife. <tayawwa!5jH>. . 
 
126 
 
 NUNNERY. 
 
 Hence the road leads up a very long and steep 
 hill, on the top of which is an extensive view of the 
 neighbouring country : two reaches of the Eden 
 form a bright silvery crescent, brilliantly contrasted 
 with the almost endless woods around, backed by the 
 dark heathy ridge of Blaze Fell. The road then 
 descends more gradually, till it arrives at 
 
 NUNNERY, 
 
 Where the Croglin, a mountain stream, joins the 
 Eden. The grounds on this side of the stream 
 belong to Major Aglionby, whose house is a heavy 
 red pile of building. The walks on that side for- 
 merly belonged to L. Ross, Esq., of Staffold Hall, a 
 neat cheerful-looking mansion immediately forward. 
 But the property is now included in that of Major 
 A. It mav, we think, be safelv asserted that the 
 Croglin, in this last part of its course for the space 
 of a mile, during which it pours along a deep ravine, 
 has no equal. It first enters this savage dell by a 
 fall of forty feet, forcinf^f its way throuji^h a cleft 
 into a deep caldron, scooped out of the rock, in 
 which the water is agitated and whirled around in 
 boiling eddies, till it finds an escape by a narrow 
 opening in one corner, whence it rushes down 
 several leaps, foaming over the large masses that 
 hinder its impetuous progress. The rocks are piled 
 on each other up to the height of one or two hun- 
 dred feet, projecting their bold fronts forward over 
 the river, " here scorched with lightning, there with 
 
 ;«iijfjaMt«aaawaaf*a 
 
 NUNNERY. 
 
 127 
 
 ivy green,*' or grey with aged lichens and mosses. 
 On the south side, the path is carried round the 
 protruding masses of rock on rudely-framed gal- 
 leries, supported by rough timbers, thus afibrding 
 the best and most striking views, because the rocks 
 and woods on the northern side, which are the 
 grandest, are seen to the best advantage. At one 
 time you are on the margin of the water, beneath 
 overhanging crags, the brook before you rushing 
 furiously over moss-coloured fragments and stones, 
 forming cascades of exceeding beauty, whilst the 
 trees waving in the breeze, reveal the shaggy rock 
 that supplies their roots with scanty nourishment. 
 At another, you are on the brink of the precipice, 
 looking down into a dense mass of wood, out of 
 which the twisted branches of the rift oak, stripped 
 of their bark, " toss their giant arms amid the 
 skies," contrasting with the deep green behind, 
 while the water is betrayed by its sparkling sheen 
 and softened roar. 
 
 The Eden also presents some magnificent views, 
 but the Croglin must ever be considered the same 
 attraction. This sketch, though not adequately 
 describing this most romantic of streams, may give 
 the tourist a faint idea of what he has to expect ; 
 for the most glowing description would fall short 
 of the original. It would be as diflicult to transfer 
 the clear distinguishable depth of its shadows, the 
 sea-green colour of its transparent waters, and the 
 flashing light playing upon its precipices and dense 
 foliage, to the canvas. In a small building are 
 
128 
 
 KIRKOSWALD. 
 
 LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 
 
 129 
 
 some monumental remains of the Aglionby family. 
 The site of the Nunnery is now marked by a pillar 
 of masonry, standing on the hill above the present 
 
 house. 
 
 Bevond Staffold Hall, on the road-side, is a 
 white farm-house, called Prospect Hill, from its 
 commanding a view of Kirkoswald and the sur- 
 rounding country. The Eden runs through a 
 more open and expanded vale ; fertile holms and 
 rich corn-fields adorn the banks of this clear-flowing 
 stream, which is crossed by the bridge of Lazonby, 
 a village straggling up the hill on the west side. 
 Over Kirkoswald are the woods of Little Salkeld, 
 with Crossfell in the distance. 
 
 KIRKOSWALD 
 
 Is an irregular-built market-town, crowning the 
 rido-e of a hill. The most interesting objects are 
 the Church and Castle. The Church is an old 
 building, consisting of a nave, aisles, and porches, 
 north and south, and a chancel. It is built at a 
 little distance from the town, under a hill-side, a 
 noble avenue of sycamores leading to it. A copious 
 spring of pure water issuing out in the Church, runs 
 through the whole length, and emerges into day at 
 the west end. The style is late Norman or very 
 early English, with many modern alterations. The 
 belfry, containing two bells, stands on the hill 
 above ; for, otherwise, their sound would be inau- 
 dible in the town. On the east side of the town. 
 
 on high ground, stands the Castle ; the ruins are 
 very scanty ; the angle of what has once apparently 
 been a high tower, and the ground thrown together 
 in irregular heaps, now grown over with grass, are 
 all that remain. A branch of the Northumberland 
 Fetherstonhaughs is seated at the College in this 
 town. 
 
 About three miles further, after traversing a 
 pleasant road between fine hedge-rows and noble 
 trees, we arrive on a black moor, where our eyes 
 are greeted with the sight of 
 
 LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 
 
 "A weight of awe, not easy to be borne. 
 Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast 
 From the dread bosom of the unknown past, 
 When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn : — 
 And her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn 
 The power of years — pre-eminent and placed 
 Apart, to overlook the circle vast." 
 
 The road passes through the midst of the circle, 
 as also does a wall, forming the boundary of the 
 common, thus injuring the effect of this mighty 
 monument of British superstition. The stones, 
 sixty-six in number, are of various sizes, some lying 
 hid amidst the herbage, others standing erect, and 
 forming a circle three hundred and fifty paces in 
 circumference. On the south side, without the 
 circle, stands Long Meg, a large upright stone, 
 about fifteen feet round, and eighteen feet high, of 
 unhewn freestone, which seems to have been brought 
 from Lazonby Moor, all the rest being a kind of 
 
 iir 
 
130 
 
 LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 
 
 PENRITH. 
 
 131 
 
 whinstone. Within the circle, near Lonfi: Meg, 
 four of them form a square ; and towards the east, 
 west, and north, two stones of greater magnitude 
 are placed at a much wider distance than the rest. 
 On the east the hills terminate in Cross Fell ; on 
 the west, Helvellyn, Mell Fell, and Blencathra, are 
 visible above the near ground, which is composed 
 of wild heathy commons. 
 
 The road leads down the common to the village 
 of Little Salkeld, on the banks of the Eden, where 
 
 Hodgson, Esq., has his residence, seated 
 
 amongst pleasantly-wooded grounds, interspersed 
 with agreeable walks leading along the banks of 
 the water, and in some places scooped into caves, 
 affording cool retreats. 
 
 At the village of Longwathby the tourist will 
 cross the Eden by a good bridge of five arches, 
 built in 1636. The church is parcel of the vicar- 
 ao-e of Edenhall, which is a mile and a half further, 
 and three miles and a half from Penrith. 
 
 Edenhall is the beautiful mansion of the Mus- 
 graves, lately rebuilt of white stone in a style of 
 classic elegance. The grounds around it slope 
 gently towards the river, and are highly adorned 
 with wood variously disposed. In the hall is pre- 
 served a very curious and beautifully painted drink- 
 ing-glass, in an ornamented case : this is the " Luck 
 of Edenhall." The church, dedicated to St. Cuth- 
 bert, is a singular and beautiful fabric ; it has a 
 low tower with machicholated battlements, and con- 
 tains several marble monuments of the Musgraves ; 
 
 the windows also have some good pieces of painted 
 glass in them. 
 
 We shall now, leaving behind the sweet-flowing 
 Eden, quickly reach the market-town of 
 
 PENRITH, 
 
 Vulgarly called Perith, an ancient, respectable, 
 and well-built town, consistino: chieflv of one lonor 
 street, at the junction of the roads from London 
 and Manchester to Glasgow. The houses, built 
 of stone, are generally plastered and whitewashed. 
 
 In 1807 the town was much improved by the re- 
 moval of the market-cross, shambles, and moot-hall ; 
 and the south entrance from Appleby has lately 
 been widened and carried by a gentle curve out of 
 the town, instead of by a narrow, crooked, and dan- 
 gerous road, as it formerly was. The markets and 
 fairs are well attended, and rank high as marts for 
 agricultural produce. 
 
 The parish church, dedicated to Saint Andrew, 
 is a large structure, rebuilt in 1722, by a rate and 
 subscription ; the tower, which contains a set of verv 
 sweet chimes, is ancient. In the churchyard is a 
 curious relic of antiquity, called the Giant's Grave, 
 consisting of two large pillars, ten feet in height, and 
 distant fifteen feet from each other in the direction 
 of east and west, having the space between them 
 partly enclosed on each side by four large thin 
 stones. Near them is another pillar named the 
 Giant's Thumb, but it is six feet in height. The 
 
132 
 
 PENRITH. 
 
 PENRITH. 
 
 133 
 
 ruins of the Castle are on the west side of the town : 
 it is thoutjht to have been built about the end of 
 the fourteenth century, during the reign of Edward 
 IV., and was once the residence of Richard of 
 Glo'ster. It was dismantled in the civil wars. From 
 the remaining parts of the walls, the Castle seems to 
 have been a very strong and spacious fortress, with 
 the usual accompaniments of dungeons. On the 
 north side of the town is the excellent race-course, 
 furnished with a grand stand, built in 1814. Horse- 
 races and stag-hunts are held in the autumn, and 
 attract a large concourse of spectators. At the 
 George Inn is a spacious assembly-room, and at the 
 Crown a news-room, which, with libraries, form a 
 fund of amusement for the inhabitants. 
 
 Above the race-course, on the point of a wood- 
 embowered hill, stands the Beacon, which the 
 traveller may visit for the purpose of seeing from 
 a moderate elevation the country lying around, 
 and thus of forming a correct idea of the relative 
 situation of places of interest. To the north. 
 Cross Fell is the most conspicuous object, nor can 
 the Pikes of Dufton escape the eye, with the range 
 of mountains reaching from east to west of Car- 
 lisle. Stainmore and the heights of Wildbore 
 Fell, towards Kirby Stephen, fill the east. On 
 the south are Lowther and Brougham, with their 
 teeming plains and luxuriant woods ; and the circle 
 on the west is enriched with the town of Penrith 
 and the rural Vale of Eamont, overtopped by 
 Skiddaw. 
 
 
 
 Many pleasant and picturesque walks are in 
 this neighbourhood; and, within five miles, are 
 Lowther Castle, Brougham Hall, Eden Hall, 
 Dalemain, Greystoke Castle, Hutton Hall, and 
 Ulles Water. 
 
 A pleasant road leads to Eamont Bridge, so 
 picturesque an object that it ought to be ''trans- 
 ferred to the sketch-book of every artist. Turnino- 
 immediately to the right is Arthur's Round Table, 
 on the banks of the stream, an amphitheatre twenty- 
 nine yards in diameter, surrounded by a ditch and 
 mound. To the west of it, on the right of the road 
 to Pooley, is Mayburgh's Mystic Round, a hill, on 
 the summit of which is a circular enclosure, one 
 hundred yards in diameter, formed by pebble stones, 
 having in its centre a column of unhewn stone eleven 
 feet high, and twenty-two feet in circumference. 
 Antiquarians have hazarded several but unsatisfac- 
 tory conjectures, as to the uses of these mysterious 
 structures. They are evidently of British origin, 
 and to be classed along with such as Long Meo- 
 and the Keswick Circle. Following the Shap 
 road till you arrive at the Lowther, on a finely- 
 wooded eminence, on which it is perched like a nest, 
 is Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham and 
 Vaux. It is a lofty and aged pile, having a long 
 front to the west, with an embattled parapet, and 
 a terrace extending north and south : the windows 
 of the Hall are filled with stained glass. The 
 shrubberies and pleasure-grounds are extensive, 
 and laid out with taste. On the high road, a little 
 
 N 
 
 Baito^giiSmaa I 
 
134 
 
 BROUGHAM CASTLE. 
 
 LOWTHER CASTLE AND PARK. 
 
 135 
 
 further on, is Clifton : its old hall, now a farm- 
 house, is a turreted building. The moor is famous 
 as having been the scene of an engagement be- 
 tween the Highlanders and the Duke of Cumberland, 
 to which allusion is made in Waverley. From this 
 pleasant village extend the walk to the Countess' 
 Pillar, a lofty and handsome stone obelisk, erected 
 by the good Countess of Pembroke in 1656, to 
 commemorate her parting with her mother, the 
 countess dowager ; it is adorned with dials and 
 armorial quarterings. On the return is 
 
 BROUGHAM CASTLE, 
 
 On the site of the Roman Brovoniacum, at the 
 confluence of the Eamont and Lowther,where many 
 Roman remains have been found. The present 
 Castle is Norman. The first Roger Lord Clif- 
 ford built part, as appears from an inscription — 
 " This made Ro^er." In 1651 the countess re- 
 edified it, after it had lain in ruins from 1617. 
 The entrance is by a machicholated gateway and 
 tower, and a short covered way leads to an under 
 gateway with iron-grated gates. The Dongqon, 
 a stately edifice of excellent masonry, rises from 
 the midst of the area : within this is a vault, the 
 groined roof of which is supported by a single 
 octagonal pier. The outward and inner gateways 
 are both vaulted with common arches, and have 
 been defended by portcullises. 
 
 These ruins, standing on a tree-clad eminence 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 at the junction of two pretty streams, wear a vene- 
 rable and majestic appearance, and are, as a whole, 
 a conspicuous and romantic object in every ap- 
 proach. The return is by the London road, which 
 here crosses the Eamont by a new bridge, erected 
 on the site of one washed down in the great floods 
 of 1822. 
 
 Lowther Castle and Hawes Water are most usually 
 and conveniently visited from Penrith. The tourist 
 must go on as far as Eamont Bridge, and then turn 
 direct to the right towards Yanwath, the old hall 
 of which wears a very castellated look, towering 
 out of the old ancestral trees, and standing on the 
 south bank of this beautiful stream. The guide- 
 post will direct him to the left; and having tra- 
 versed five miles, he will arrive at Askhara, a good 
 village in a pleasant situation, opposite to Lowther 
 Park. The hall is an oblong turreted buildino-, 
 either rebuilt or greatly enlarged in 1574, as ap- 
 pears from a curious inscription over the door. It 
 was in 1828 converted into the rectory for the 
 parish. The church is a small edifice, dedicated 
 to St. Peter, having a large chapel belonging to 
 the hall. Cross the river to 
 
 LOWTHER CASTLE AND PARK. 
 
 The Castle stands in a park of six hundred acres, 
 
 on the east side of the delightful vale of Lowther. 
 
 The building was begun in 1802, and its general 
 
 form is pyramidal, the wings adorned with turrets 
 
 N 2 
 
136 
 
 LOWTHER CASTLE AND PARK. 
 
 and towers, rising up to an immense square tower 
 occupying the centre. The north front is four 
 hundred and twenty feet in length, having before 
 it a rampart, forming a semi-polygon, flanked by 
 circular bastions at the angles ; below there is a 
 large area enclosed by a parapet wall, with a 
 covered way, and bastions at the corners. At the 
 entrance is a porter's lodge, with a double gate and 
 postern, and in the centre a large gateway, guard- 
 ed bv two stronf]: octa^fonal towers. The south 
 front forms a remarkable contrast to this, being 
 built in the decorated style, with pointed windows 
 enriched with tracery and niches ; the cloisters 
 also give additional interest and eiFect to this side. 
 A lawn of velvet smoothness and emerald green, 
 shut in by trees of the loftiest growth, stretches 
 along this front. The interior of the Castle is fit- 
 ted up with correspondent taste, oak being very 
 plentifully used. The staircase, which ascends in 
 the central tower, is magnificent. A beautiful 
 flower-garden is separated from the park by a sunk 
 fence, and from the south front several walks wind 
 away to Low ther Terrace, through groves of forest 
 trees. Below, the river Lowther pursues with 
 gentle stream its devious course, through flowery 
 meads and beneath the leafy foliage, sometimes 
 betraying itself by its glittering stream, sometimes 
 by its noisy babblings. The view from the great 
 central tower is extensive, being shut in by Skid- 
 daw, Helvellyn, St. Sunday Crag, and other dis- 
 tant mountains. 
 
 HAWES WATER. 
 
 137 
 
 The tourist who has complained of the deficiency 
 of magnificent forest-wood, will here, at least, have 
 found no reason to renew his complaints, and, 
 indeed, scarcely during any of the latter part of the 
 tour. The princely residences of the nobility are 
 scarce in the north country — the halls of the gen- 
 try are not numerous — and the lands being in the 
 hands of statesmen, who are in general mere agri- 
 culturists, they look upon wood as exhausting the 
 fertility of the land. 
 
 At Bampton, the Lowther is joined by the stream 
 which issues out of Hawes Water. This is a villao-e 
 placed on both sides of the water. The church, 
 vicarage, and grammar-school, are on the south 
 side of the vale. The road through this valley is 
 amidst green enclosures and pretty lanes, bordered 
 by wild roses, and honeysuckles, and copse-woods, 
 which beguile the way till you reach the lake. 
 
 At Bampton is a free-school, which has pro- 
 duced many great scholars, especially Edmund 
 Gibson, Bishop of London, and the late Judge 
 Wilson. 
 
 HAWES WATER, 
 
 Belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, is a less Ulles 
 
 Water, undefiled by bad taste. It is three miles 
 
 in length, and generally half a mile in breadth, 
 
 abounding in perch, trout, eels, and chubs. The 
 
 eastern side is screened by pretty wooded rocks, 
 
 and its western girt by a few cultivated fields, thinly 
 
 N 3 
 
138 
 
 HAWES WATER. 
 
 KENTMERE. 
 
 139 
 
 studded with farm-houses, that are sheltered bv 
 groups of trees. A richly-wooded promontory, that 
 stretches from the west side of the lake, appears 
 to cut it into two : a little beyond is Fordingdale 
 Beck, presenting some beautiful cascades, and the 
 grand assemblage of mountains at the lake head 
 in the noblest point of view. Rranstree, Harter 
 Fell, with its ridgy projection, Riggendale, High 
 Street, Kidsty Pike, which has two points, and is 
 low in the middle like Saddleback, and Whelter, 
 stand around its head, and send down the trickling 
 streams and silvery cascades to feed this interesting 
 water. The views, indeed, in passing up, are a 
 composition of magnificence and sublimity, as seen 
 from the carriage-road in the most favourable 
 manner ; the scenes looking down the lake, form a 
 striking contrast — all is rural beauty and sylvan 
 sweetness. 
 
 About one mile further from the head of the 
 lake stands Mardale Chapel, which is under Shap ; 
 it is a wild solitary region, surrounded by lofty 
 mountains and fells. Near this, in former days, 
 there stood " a simple cottage among rocks, woods, 
 and solitary mountains ; it bore on its varied roofs 
 and numerous gable-ends the marks of former 
 centuries ; its owners had lived there in succession 
 for many generations. A few paces took them 
 to Mardale Chapel, their place of worship, and 
 when they died, their long home was on their own 
 premises. They were surrounded by woody knolls, 
 and these knolls were surrounded by lofty moun- 
 
 
 I 
 
 tains. Most of these remain, and will remain. I 
 only regret that the ancient cottage, with its ac- 
 companiments, is superseded by the modern house 
 with its five windows in front. I should have pre- 
 ferred at Mardale Hill the ancient cottage with its 
 antiquated windows, its lowly roof fringed with 
 moss, and its chimneys smoking through the trees, 
 as the abode of quiet and the home of solitude." 
 The change here so eloquently lamented has, un- 
 fortunately, too often been the case in numerous 
 other instances, which the stranger will have been 
 obliged to notice. 
 
 The traveller may, by several ways, each exhi- 
 biting scenes worthy of admiration, pass out of this 
 vale. One mountain path leads up Riggendale, 
 over High Street, and down Troutbeck Hundreds, 
 to Ambleside or Low^'ood Inn, 
 
 KENTMERE, 
 
 Or he may follow the course of the stream flowing 
 out of Small Water, over the Pass of Nanbield, 
 then down a steep descent into Kentmere, a nar- 
 row vale, watered by the Kent, which expands into 
 a tarn one mile long, abounding with trout, perch, 
 and wild ducks, and margined by swampy grounds. 
 The houses are scattered throughout the dale. At 
 Kentmere Hall, an ancient tower, that unwearied 
 apostle of the north, and sincere confessor of the 
 gospelj. Bernard Gilpin, some time rector of Hough- 
 ton-le- Spring, in Durham, was born. Near the 
 
 * 
 
140 
 
 LONG SLEDDALE. — SHAP ABBEY. 
 
 Hall stands the chapel, in a burial-ground that was 
 consecrated in 1701. Hence by Nether Stavely 
 and Strickland Kettle, the road reaches Kendal. 
 
 LONG SLEDDALE. 
 
 Another path leads upwards by a mountain 
 stream from Chapel Hill, between Harter Fell and 
 Shap Fells, then down by Sadgill into Long Sled- 
 dale, and thence to Kendal, from which place 
 Hawes Water is frequently visited by this route. 
 The valley is, on the average, half a mile in width, 
 and is intersected by the Sprint rivulet, which runs 
 parallel to the road. From the bottom, which is 
 covered with a mixture of arable and meadow 
 ground, hanging woods and rising pastures ascend 
 the sloping sides, terminating in sheep-walks on 
 the mountains. It is divided into small estates, 
 having the farm-steads at the foot of rising grounds 
 almost every quarter of a mile. On an eminence, 
 midway, stands the chapel, and near it the school. 
 The most interesting mansion in the dale is Yew- 
 barrow Hall, having an ancient tower, whose walls 
 are several feet thick. 
 
 The last track, at the traveller's choice, crosses 
 over Branstree, and through the deep and narrow 
 vale of Swindale, to 
 
 SHAP ABBEY, 
 
 Founded by Thomas, son of Gospatrick, who de- 
 
 SHAP ABBEY. 
 
 141 
 
 dicated it to God and St. Mary Magdalene, en- 
 dowing it for canons of the Premonstratensian 
 Order. Their revenues, at the dissolution, were 
 £154 17s. 7d. The abbey church appears to have 
 been a large building. The great tower is the 
 only part now standing, but extensive foundations 
 of buildings were discovered in 1825, on the south 
 side of the abbey; near which the pillar of an 
 ancient bridge is still to be seen in the midst of the 
 river. 
 
 Near the town of Shap is a stupendous monu- 
 ment called Karl Lofts, composed of two lines of 
 huge unhewn masses of granite, enclosing an area 
 of half a mile in length, and from twenty to thirty 
 yards in breadth, having at its south end a circle 
 of similar stones, eighteen feet in diameter, and 
 near the north end a square plot of stones partly 
 covered with earth, above which, on Skellaw Hill, 
 is a small tumulus. The stones in each line are 
 some of them three or four yards in diameter ; but 
 many of them have been blasted and carried away 
 for the erection of buildings in the parish. 
 
 The town of Shap, standing on the high road, 
 has excellent inns ; and not far from it, the Earl 
 of Lonsdale has erected a commodious and eleofant 
 hotel, for the accommodation of visitors to the 
 Wells, which have lately become a place of genteel 
 resort. The high road, in return, passes through 
 Thrimby and the pleasant village of Hackthorpe, 
 to Penrith. 
 
 From Penrith the stranger can proceed by two 
 
 l'^!^ifJiiMit^^,^£afSiAtv^j^is;>x»!^»i,it& i 
 
142 
 
 SHAP ABBEY. 
 
 roads to Ulles Water ; one along the north, the 
 other along the south side of the Eamont, both 
 meeting near Pooley Bridge, a hamlet at the foot 
 of the lake, where that river speeds its limpid way 
 out of it. 
 
 The northern road leads past Dalemain Hall, 
 built in the style of architecture that marks the 
 reign of William III, and seated on the Dacre, 
 which, rising in the moorish country of Penruddock, 
 flows down a soft sequestered valley, past the gloomy 
 and monastic Hall of Hutton John and the Castle 
 of Dacre, joining the Eamont in the park. It forms, 
 with Dacre Castle and Blencathra behind, a grand 
 picture as viewed from this Hall. On the right, 
 are Dacre Castle and Church. The Castle is now 
 converted into a farm-house ; the moat is filled up, 
 and the outworks destroyed, but the main building 
 remains in a perfect state, consisting of four towers 
 of excellent masonry. The church is a neat stone 
 fabric, dedicated to St. Andrew ; it contains several 
 monuments of the Hasell family ; and on the north 
 side of the altar-table is the effigy of a knight in 
 armour. In the churchyard are four remarkable 
 monuments, being the figures of bears, about five 
 feet in height, sitting on their haunches, and 
 clasping a rude pillar. 
 
 The road, by the south, leads over Eamont 
 Bridge, thence by Yanwath, (that fine specimen of 
 the old Westmorland hall,) through Tirril, and 
 past Barton church to Pooley Bridge, where there 
 is a pretty good inn, aff'ording accommodation. 
 
 II I 1 cMikTPR 
 
ULLE*ATER. 
 
 I'.'.tl ' /;/ il'fi.J.Utir.t 
 
ULLES WATER. 
 
 143 
 
 saddle-horses, jaunting-cars, and pleasure-boats. 
 On the opposite side of the water is Dunmallet, 
 which the tourist cannot but notice, from its conical 
 figure and its being covered with wood; it was 
 anciently crowned by a Roman station. 
 
 ULLES WATER 
 
 *:» 
 
 Is the largest lake, next to Windermere, in the dis- 
 trict, being nine miles in length and one in breadth. 
 Its average depth is from twenty to thirty-five 
 fathoms ; and its waters abound in excellent trout, 
 and are crowded with shoals of skellies, a kind of 
 fresh-water herring : a few char are also found in 
 the lake, and great quantities of eels are taken in 
 the Eamont, as they migrate from the lake in 
 autumn. The principal feeders are Grisedale 
 Beck, overflowing from a large tarn, high up 
 between Seat- Sandal, and Helvellyn, and Goldrill 
 Beck, whose waters are the united streams that 
 pour out of Blea and Angle Tarns. The water 
 is of a zig-zag form, running as it were into the 
 mountains, the hill-sides plentifully covered with 
 wood, and rich meadows lying at its foot. It con- 
 sists of three reaches : the first or lowest, three 
 miles in length, has pretty sloping banks ; the view 
 up this has, in front, Hallin Fell, with Swarth Fell 
 on the left, and on the right, the sweetly-situated 
 villas of Rampsbeck, Beauthorn, Lemon Hall, and 
 the white hamlet of Watermillock. The second 
 reach is four miles long, having the huge Helvellvn 
 
 S^^yi^j 
 
144 
 
 ULLES WATER. 
 
 rearing his crested form in front, with Hallsteads 
 on the long low promontory, round which the lake 
 doubles, the woods of Gowbarrow adornino- the 
 right, and on the left Hallin, Birk, and Place 
 Fells. The highest and last reach is two miles 
 long, spotted with a few rocky islands of small 
 importance. The steep and rugged front of Place 
 Fell forms its left boundary, nnd the precipitous 
 rocks of Stybarrow, oaken-crowned, start up out of 
 the waters on the right, the crags of St. Sunday, 
 Helvellyn, and Fairfield, forming the towering 
 distance. 
 
 " Turn where we may, said I, we cannot err 
 In this delicious region. — Cultured slopes, 
 Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves, 
 And mountains bare, or clothed with ancient woods. 
 Surrounded us ; and, as we held our way 
 Along the level of the grassy flood, 
 They ceased not to surround us ; change of place, 
 From kindred features diversely combined. 
 Producing change of beauty ever new." 
 
 On the whole, this water generally stands con- 
 fessed the most beautiful and grandest of all, afford- 
 ing the greatest variety of views, in which, how- 
 ever, the sublime unquestionably preponderates. 
 
 In advancing up Ulles Water, we should recom- 
 mend the south or Westmorland side of the shore 
 to be taken as far as How Town, where a boat 
 should be in readiness to carry you across to Old 
 Church, Watermillock, inasmuch as the views are 
 incomparably finer, both with regard to the fore- 
 grounds and the combinations of the distance. 
 
 ULLES WATER. 
 
 145 
 
 This side cannot be pursued to Patterdale, but 
 by pedestrians, who after leaving How Town, pene- 
 trate into Martindale, a sequestered spot shut out 
 from the lake ; its one-arched bridge, a chapel with 
 low roof and simple bell-gable, and a picturesque 
 yew-tree, are romantic objects. At the head of 
 this dale, where it divides into two grains, is a 
 hunting-box of the Hasell's. The want of wood 
 here gives interest to the few scattered houses 
 which are embowered in sycamore. A green path 
 leads to the top of the western ridge, whence there 
 is a view of the last reach of Ulles Water, bordered 
 by black steeps — the narrow grassy vale of Bordale 
 immediately beneath — Penrith beyond — and Cross 
 Fell in the extreme verge of the horizon. In pas- 
 sing down to Patterdale, several beautiful views 
 are presented of that dale, and of Brother Water, 
 with the heights of Kirkstone. 
 
 The carriage-road leads from Pooley Bridge, 
 on the Cumberland side, along the first reach, 
 which is comparatively speaking tame, having 
 Soulby Fell, a smooth green hill, on the right. 
 Near the pleasant village of Watermillock, stood 
 the old church, in a very sequestered bay ; the old 
 church-yard yew-tree still survives. The new 
 church is built further up the hill-side, and was 
 consecrated by Osbaldistone, Bishop of Carlisle, 
 on his way to crown Elizabeth. At the extremity 
 of the church promontory stands Hallsteads, the 
 modern residence of J. Marshall, Esq. Imme- 
 diately after passing this, on the left, you enter 
 
 o 
 
146 
 
 ULLES WATER. 
 
 into the grounds of Gowbarrow Hall; and then 
 the Park, in which is situated Lyulph's Tower, a 
 rude hunting-seat of the Duke of Norfolk, that 
 exhibits one of the finest views on the lake. The 
 lover of nature may llncjer here for hours. A 
 powerful brook dashes through rocks hung with a 
 happy mixture of natural wood, beds of luxuriant 
 fern, aged hawthorns, hollies, and honeysuckles; 
 while fallow deer are seen glancing and bounding 
 through the thickets and over the lawns. The attrac- 
 tions of the retired views, and the ever-varvino^ fore- 
 grounds, which heighten the beauties of the water, 
 are not to be described. 
 
 " Ah ! that such beauty, varying in the light 
 Of living nature, cannot be pourtrayed 
 By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill. 
 Rut is the property of him alone 
 Mho hath beheld it, noted it with care, 
 And, in his mind, recorded it with love." 
 
 The explorer of nature's hidden charms must 
 here leave the road, and follow up the gill above 
 named, till he arrives at Airev Force, where the 
 stream falls eighty feet between two rugged cheeks 
 of rock. 
 
 «f 
 
 ■Sending 
 
 From hollow clefts up to the clearer air 
 A cloud of mist, that, smitten by the sun. 
 Varies its rainbow hues." 
 
 A wooden brid^^e crosses the top of the fall. 
 After it has rested for a moment in the basin that 
 receives it, making a bend, it rushes down a lower 
 steep, at the foot of which another romantic bridge 
 is thrown over the agitated waters. Altogether 
 
 ULLES WATER. 
 
 147 
 
 the scene is incomparably grand. After reluctantly 
 leaving the enclosed park, the scenery still con- 
 tinues most fascinating. The road that passes down 
 the hill on the right, is the direct carriage-route from 
 Keswick, through Matterdale, a wild and interest- 
 ing valley. The horse-road from Keswick unites 
 with this at Dockwray, through which hamlet, after 
 springing out of Dowthwaite Head, runs the stream 
 that, in its progress through Gowbarrow Park, 
 forms the noble fall of Airey Force. On the hill- 
 top there is a magnificent view of the two upper 
 reaches of the lake, having on the left. Silvery 
 Point and Place Fell, the steeps of Glenridden, 
 with Stybarrow Crags and Patterdale Hall; aftd 
 beyond, the mountains of Graysdale and Harts- 
 hope, Scandale Fell, and St. Sunday Crag. Pro- 
 ceeding onwards, on the right, lurking in a recess, 
 is Glencoin, a farm-house belonging to the Duke of 
 Norfolk, in a rich cultivated bottom, with high and 
 splendidly-wooded mountains in the back-ground: 
 the stream here divides the counties of Cumber- 
 land and Westmorland. Hence the road ascends, 
 and is cut .through the crags of Stybarrow, from 
 which there is a Claude-like view towards the foot 
 of the water. On a grassy promontory stands 
 Glenridden, the seat of the Rev. H. Askew ; the 
 dale opening upwards to the right, is adorned with 
 fertile fields, cottages, and natural groves, that 
 agreeably unite with the view of Ulles Water. The 
 pedestrian may follow up its stream, along bold 
 
 2 o 
 
148 
 
 ULLES WATER. 
 
 BROTHER WATER. 
 
 149 
 
 water-breaks and falls, to a silent tarn in the recesses 
 of Helvellvn, 
 
 t* 
 
 -From the summit of whose craggy mound 
 
 The perching eagle oft is heard to cry, 
 
 Or on resounding wings to shoot athwart the sky." 
 
 On the right is Patterdale Hall, the former 
 residence of the kings of Patterdale, but now 
 belonging to William Marshall, Esq. The stream 
 that rushes down across the road, flows out of 
 Graysdale Tarn, through a green moist dale, with 
 one single house embosomed in sycamores. 
 
 Patterdale chapel stands on one side of the road, 
 with scarcely a single tombstone in its burial-ground, 
 its noble tree, the solemn yew, adding dignity even 
 to the hallowed ground. 
 
 " These dalesmen trust 
 The lingering gleam of their departed lives 
 To oral records and the silent heart — 
 Depository faithful, and more kind 
 Than fondest epitaphs ; for, if that fail, 
 What boots the sculptur'd tomb ?" 
 
 A little further is the excellent inn, where every 
 accommodation mavbe had for viewing this sublime 
 nucleus of dales, and where a day or two should be 
 spent for such a purpose. The water should be 
 navigated, the recesses of the dales explored, and 
 Helvellyn ascended. No one, not even the transi- 
 tory visitor, should omit to walk to Blowick, which 
 may be done while dinner is preparing. It has still 
 its land-locked bays, and its rocky promontories, 
 though deprived of all its wood — thus displaying all 
 
 its charms at once, instead of unfolding them in 
 delightful succession. 
 
 Leaving the inn, we shall proceed up the dale. 
 On the right is Deepdale, which is terminated by 
 a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous 
 sides, the receptacle of the snows of Fairfield. On 
 the left, the road leads to Low Hartshope, a romantic 
 villao'e, throuo^h which flows the stream from Havs 
 Water. 
 
 BROTHER WATER. 
 
 At Cowbridge is the outlet of this pretty sheet of 
 water, which is situated in a fertile vale, clothed 
 with wood. On its western side, near the head, 
 stands the ancient and lowly Hall of Hartshop. 
 This water may be readily circumambulated, and 
 the views around it are sublime. It is fed by Kirk- 
 stone Beck, and that which rises under Dove Crag, 
 which issues from a cove richly decorated with 
 native wood ; from this recess there is a view back- 
 wards on the gleaming surface of Brother Water, 
 and forwards to the precipitous sides and lofty 
 ridges of Dove Crag. 
 
 The tourist may proceed over the rocky pass 
 of Kirkstone to Ambleside, or return to Penrith. 
 
 3 o 
 
AN 
 
 ITIKEMM OF THE LAKES, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A CORRECT DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, SKATS, 
 
 AND ALL OTHER OBJECTS WORTHY OF NOTICE 
 
 TO THE TOURIST. 
 
 I. LANCASTER TO KENDAL, BY MILNTH0RPE.-2Um. 
 
 MILES. LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 4 Bolton-le-Sands .... 4 
 
 2 Carnforth 6 
 
 6^ Beetham 12^ 
 
 ij Milnthorpe 13| 
 
 MILES. LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 H Heversham 15 
 
 H Levens Bridge 16^ 
 
 H Sizergh 18 
 
 3i Kendal 21:^ 
 
 Lancaster is an ancient town, and the capital 
 of the county-palatine of Lancaster, beautifully 
 situated on a hill above the river Lune, which falls 
 into Morecambe Bay, at the distance of seven miles. 
 On the summit of the hill is the Castle, an imposing 
 structure, built by Roger de Poictou, in the 11th 
 or 12th centuFy, and enlarged by John of Gaunt, 
 Duke of Lancaster, in the 14th. The assizes are 
 held in the Castle, and part of it is also used as a 
 county prison. The principal public buildings, in 
 and near the town, are the Town-hall, in the mar- 
 ket-place, the Custom-house, the Assembly-room, 
 the Theatre, and the county Lunatic Asylum, which 
 is capable of accommodating 300 patients, is per- 
 fectly secure, and conducted on an excellent plan. 
 
152 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 153 
 
 The trade of Lancaster is very considerable, not 
 only at Glasson Dock, where the larger ships 
 generally unload, but also at the Canal, which is 
 one of very great extent, and connected with many 
 of the principal towns in the manufacturing dis- 
 tricts. Fairs for the sale of cheese are held here 
 twice a-year, at which immense quantities are sold. 
 Lancaster is incorporated under a mayor, alder- 
 men, &c., and sends two Members to Parliament. 
 Population, 12,613 ; market-days, Wednesday and 
 Saturday ; inns. Kings Arms and lloijal Oak, 
 
 Bolton-Ie- Sands In the neighbourhood of this 
 
 villatre, the mountains of Westmorland and Cumber- 
 land combine very beautifully with Morecambe Bay. 
 
 Carnforth, — Two miles hence is the remarkable 
 cave, called Dunald Millhole, into which a brook 
 descends, and runs under ground, until it breaks 
 forth again at this village. 
 
 Beetham is a neat village in the secluded vale of 
 the Belo, on the new road from Lancaster to Ul- 
 verstone. The Hall, now a farm-house, was a 
 large fortified mansion, standing within an area, 
 enclosed by a wall pierced with loop-holes. The 
 ruins of Hilslack and Arnside towns are not very 
 distant ; they seem to have been erected to guard 
 the Bay of Morecambe. 
 
 MiLNTHORPE, a small but well-built market-town, 
 is situated on the north side of the Belo, and is the 
 only sea-port in Westmorland, enjoying a share of 
 the coast trade to Liverpool, Glasgow, and the 
 intermediate ports ; it is in the parish of Hever- 
 
 sham. An elegant and beautiful chapel, in the 
 lancet style, has lately been built and consecrated 
 for the use of the inhabitants. Population, (with 
 Heversham,) 1509; market-day, Friday; inn, 
 Cross-Keys. Near Milnthorpe, on the left, is 
 Dallam Tower, the residence of Colonel Wilson. 
 
 Heversham is a neat small village, having a 
 grammar-school, at which Bishop Watson received 
 his early education under the immediate super- 
 intendence of his father, and a noble church, 
 of which there is a very striking view in pas- 
 sing. Near this are three pleasant villas — Plump- 
 tree Bank, Wilson, Esq. ; Plumptree Hall, 
 
 Pedder, Esq. ; and Deepthwaite, Bind- 
 
 loss, Esq. 
 
 Levens-Bridge spans the Kent. The roads to 
 Bowness and Ulverstone, through the romantic 
 vale of Witherslack, turn off here to the left. A 
 beautiful foot-path through Levens-Park, leads 
 along the wooded banks of the Kent to Kendal, 5^ 
 miles. Levens-Park, the seat of the Hon. Fulke 
 G. Howard, is the admiration of every one. 
 
 Sizergh Hall^ on the left If the tourist has 
 
 any penchant for fine old carved wainscottings, &c., 
 and rooms exhibiting the massive and splendid 
 style of ancient days, he should by all means turn 
 aside to this remnant of feudal strength. 
 
 Kendal is a flourishing town, being the largest 
 in Westmorland, and is placed in a very agreeable 
 valley, enlivened by the meanderings of the Kent. 
 A full description of it will be found at page 19. 
 
154 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 II. LANCASTER TO KENDAL, BY KIRKBY-LONSDALE,- 
 
 30 MILES. 
 
 MILES. LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 5 Caton 5 
 
 2 CJaughton 7 
 
 2 Hornby 9 
 
 2 Mellins 11 
 
 MILES. LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 2 Tunstall 13 
 
 2 Burrow 15 
 
 2 Kirkby. Lonsdale 17 
 
 13 Kendal 30 
 
 Caton, — Between this village and Lancaster 
 there is a grand view, from a field by the side of 
 the road, of the fertile vale of the Lune, with the 
 Yorkshire mountains towerino^ hi^jh over it. 
 
 Claughton, — The ancient hall is now, as is com- 
 monly the case with these ancient relics of bye-gone 
 days, occupied by a farmer. 
 
 Hornby — On the right is Hornby Castle, the 
 property and possession of the estates attached to 
 which, have latterly been a source of lucrative emo- 
 lument to the gentlemen of the long robe. 
 
 Kirkby-Lonsdale , — A small market town, agree- 
 ably placed on the west bank of the Lune, lying 
 near the verge of Lancashire, and within a few 
 miles of Yorkshire. The churchyard is celebrated 
 for the fine views which it commands of the valley. 
 The bridge over the Lune is an admirable and 
 remarkable structure, narrow, however, and better 
 suited to the times in which its three ribbed arches 
 were first thrown across the angry and chafing 
 stream below. The mills are singularly situated, 
 and are used for different purposes. Although 
 the town has not been much increased, it is still, in 
 importance, the third town in Westmorland. Popu- 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 155 
 
 lation, 1G86; market-day, Thursday; inns, Rose 
 and Crowh^ and The Dragon. 
 Kendal. — (See page 19.) 
 
 III. LANCASTER TO ULVERSTONE, OVER THE SANDS,— 
 
 21 MILES. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 3^ Hest Bank 3^ 
 
 i Lancaster Sands 3| 
 
 9 Kent's Bank 12| 
 
 1 Allithwaite .. 13f 
 
 MILES. LANCASTER TO MILES. 
 
 1 4 Flookboro' 15 
 
 1 Leven Sands 16 
 
 5 Ulverstone 21 
 
 Hest Bank, — A bathing-place on the edo-e of 
 Morecambe Bay. 
 
 Lancaster Sands — From Hest Bank to Cartmel 
 the Sands are about eleven miles in breadth, and 
 guides are stationed on them to preserve travellers 
 from devouring quicksands, deep channels, and the 
 flowing tide, which, twice a-day, covers the whole 
 sandy plain many feet deep in water. The Sands 
 can only be crossed when the tide is out, and should 
 never he attempted without the guides. The views 
 , here are very fine, embracing the whole coast of 
 the Bay of Morecambe, Peel Castle at its entrance, 
 the crags of Warton and Arnside on the rii^-ht, 
 Ingleborough and its buttresses to the east, and in 
 front, the Westmorland and Cumberland moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Allithwaite is a village in the parish of Cartmel. 
 
 Cartmel is a small market-town, having an 
 ancient and handsome church. Three miles hence 
 is a medicinal spring, called Holy Well, much fre- 
 
 - -'*- nr-£S8ia«t/<a«'*iA.fe^» 
 
156 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 157 
 
 quented, Population, 347. Not far from this 
 town is Holker Hall, the seat of the Burlingtons. 
 
 Flookhoro was anciently a market-town, by char- 
 ter of Edward I. 
 
 Leven Sands are fordable at low water, and are 
 about three miles in breadth. Splendid views are 
 obtained in crossing them, as they are bounded by 
 the woods of Holker Hall and Conishead Priory, 
 and closed in by a nucleus of mountains, of which 
 the Man Mountain is the most conspicuous. 
 
 Ulverstone is the capital of Furness, and a 
 flourishing market-town and port. A new church 
 has lately been erected. The old church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Mary, was enlarged in 1804, and is 
 now one of the handsomest churches in Lancashire. 
 There is a coach daily to and from Lancaster. 
 Population, 4876 ; inns. Sun and Braddyll Arms. 
 In this neighbourhood are Conishead Priory, the 
 modern mansion of Braddyll, Esq., and Swart- 
 moor Hall, once the property of George Fox, of 
 Quaker notoriety. 
 
 IV. EXCURSION FROM ULVERSTONE TO FURNESS 
 
 ABBEY.— 12 MILES. 
 
 MILKS. ULVERSTONE TO MILES. 
 
 5 Dalton 5 
 
 1 Furness 6 
 
 Return by 
 
 Urswick. 
 
 Dalton, a small market-town, was anciently the 
 capital of Furness. It consists of one street, ter- 
 minated by a spacious market-place, where an old 
 
 Castle, consisting of a square tower, overlooks the 
 town. In this Castle are held the courts of the 
 liberty and manor of Furness, of which the Duke 
 of Buccleugh and Lord Beaulieu are lords. Rom- 
 ney, the portrait-painter, was born at a place called 
 Beckside, in Dalton. Population, 759; market- 
 davj Saturday. 
 
 Furness Abbey — For a detailed account of it, 
 see page 6. 
 
 In returning from Dalton, the tourist may take 
 the Urswick road, over Birkrigg, the top of which 
 commands an extensive prospect of the sea, and 
 the Isle of Man, with the surrounding mountains. 
 
 V. ULVERSTONE TO BOWNESS, BY CONISTON.— 24iM. 
 
 MILES. ULVERSTONE TO MILES. 
 
 6 Lowick Bridge 6 
 
 2 Nibthwaite 8 
 
 8 Coniston Water Head.. 16 
 
 MILES. ULVERSTONE TO MILES. 
 
 3 Hawkshead 19 
 
 4 Ferry House 23 
 
 H Bowness 24^ 
 
 Lowick Bridge crosses the Crake, which issues 
 out of Coniston Water. At the separation of the 
 Broughton and Hawkshead roads, there is a very 
 fine view of Coniston Water, and the mountains 
 about its head. 
 
 Nibthwaite is on the east side, and near the foot 
 of the lake, and is a station affording noble views 
 of the lake. 
 
 Coniston Water (See page 8.) 
 
 Coniston Water Head There is here a good 
 
 inn, situated at the head of the lake, and backed 
 
158 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 by some magnificent fir-trees. Here the tourist 
 may stop for the purpose of making the following 
 trips, which amply repay the delay they require — 
 viz., (1.) The ascent of the Old Man, and the con- 
 tinuation thence as far as the Chapel in Seathwaite, 
 returning by Torver ; (2.) The walk into Yewdale 
 and Tilberthwaite ; and (3.) The ride or walk round 
 the lake itself. These excursions will be found 
 described in this work, 
 
 Hawkshead is a neat small market-town, stand- 
 ing in a warm and sheltered valley, surrounded by 
 the lofty fells of Furness, and is doubtless of great 
 antiquity, although there is no authentic record of 
 its origin. The Free Grammar School has been 
 the nursing mother of many eminent scholars. 
 The beautiful and pastoral lake, Esthwaite Water, 
 may very conveniently be perambulated from this 
 place, and comfortable quarters may be had at the 
 Red Lion, Population, 749; market-day, Monday. 
 
 The Ferry House is a good inn, delightfully 
 situated on the banks of Windermere. Horses 
 and carriages pass over the lake by this Ferry. 
 Above the inn is a pleasure-house, called the 
 Station, whence some exquisite views are to be had. 
 
 Bowness is sweetly situated near the centre of 
 the eastern shore of Windermere; and from the 
 happiness of its position, is a great rendezvous of 
 tourists, who find good accommodations at the White 
 Lion and The Croimi. The islands on the lake 
 mav be most conveniently explored from this port. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 159 
 
 VI. KENDAL TO HAWES WATER.— 32m. 
 
 MILES. KENDAL TO MIl6s. j MILES. KENDAL TO MILES. 
 
 4i Staveley 4^ 4 Sadgill 22 
 
 4^ Kentraere Tarn 9 
 
 5 Small Water 14 
 
 3 Chapelhill 17 
 
 1 Hawes Water 18 
 
 2 Yewbarrow Hall 24 
 
 3i Watch Gate 27A 
 
 44 Kendal 32 
 
 Staveley, a large, flourishing village, situated in 
 a deep and picturesque part of the vale of Kent, 
 where the Gowel-beck falls into that river. 
 
 Kentmere Tarn is in a narrow vale, about two 
 miles in length. The Tarn is one mile long, and 
 cannot be approached except at one point, owing 
 to the swampiness of its margin. Near it stands 
 the ancient Hall, a tower building. 
 
 Small Water is a tarn between High Street and 
 Harter Fell. The tourist, by following the stream 
 which issues out of it, will soon fall down to 
 
 Chapelhill — Mardale Chapel of Ease, in a pic- 
 turesque and fertile situation, surrounded by lofty 
 fells, stands here ; and Chapelhill is the property 
 and residence of the Holmes', whose ancestor came 
 into this country with the Conqueror. 
 
 Hawes Water — The western side of this lake 
 may be traversed by the tourist, as far as agreeable. 
 
 Sadgill — The return from Chapelhill must be 
 
 up the hill, having the stream from Small Water 
 
 on the right, till a small stream is seen flowing 
 
 down into Long Sleddale, which extends hence 
 
 about six miles. The chapel stands near the centre 
 
 of the dale, which is watered by the Sprint. 
 
 Yewbarroic Hall is now occupied by a farmer. 
 
 p 2 
 
160 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Watch Gate is on the high road from Kendal to 
 Shap. 
 
 VII. KENDAL TO AMBLESIDE.— 13^m. 
 
 MILKS. KENDAL TO MILES. 
 
 5 Staveley 5 
 
 U Ings Chapel 6^ 
 
 2" Orest Head s} 
 
 MILES. 
 
 KENDAL TO 
 
 MILES. 
 . 10 
 
 2 Low Wood Inn 12 
 
 li Ambleside 13^ 
 
 1^ Troutbeck Bridge.. 
 
 In^s Chapel is a neat edifice, rebuilt in 1743. 
 
 Orest Head is ornamented by several villas, and 
 commands very noble views of Windermere. 
 
 Troutbeck Bridge crosses a rivulet, issuing from 
 the high grounds on the right, and flowing down 
 the deep and picturesque vale of Troutbeck. The 
 village, or rather string of hamlets, bears the names 
 of Town-end, Town-head, High-green, Cragg, 
 and High-fold, and is distant from three to four 
 miles north by east of Bowness, and south-east of 
 Ambleside. From the elevated parts of the road 
 above Troutbeck Bridge, splendid views of Winder- 
 mere are obtained. The valley of Troutbeck is 
 well worth visiting, and pleasant walks may be con- 
 trived to it from Ambleside, Low Wood Inn, and 
 Bowness. 
 
 Low Wood Inn, distant from Bowness four and 
 a half miles, is delightfully placed on the margin 
 of a small bay, from which the head of Windermere 
 unfolds itself with exceeding grandeur, the woods 
 and lawns of Brathay Park bounding its receding 
 waters, and backed by the fantastic outline of the 
 Lano^dale Pikes, and their neighbouring mountain 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 161 
 
 masses. The accommodation at this inn is excel- 
 lent, and it is a good station for a few days' stay. 
 
 Ambleside is a small market-town in the vale 
 of the Rothay, romantically built on the side of a 
 hill, commanding prospects of the vale, the parks 
 of Rydal and Brathay, and Windermere. Excel- 
 lent quarters may be found at the Salutation, the 
 Commercial, and White Lion inns; and from its 
 central situation, the town is generally made the 
 head-quarters of tourists for a considerable time, 
 as many very interesting excursions may^ be made 
 from it. Population, 1095; market-day, Wednes- 
 day, 
 
 Windermere. — (See page 24.) 
 
 VIII. AMBLESIDE EXCURSIONS. 
 
 Pleasant walks and excursions will serve to 
 engage the tourist for a few days' delay at Amble- 
 side. 
 
 Stockgill Force must not be overlooked. Scan- 
 dale Beck and Sweden Bridge are delightful 
 evening walks. Wansfell and Skelgill afford pros- 
 pects from a moderate elevation, which may be 
 accomplished without incurring much fatigue. 
 Loughrigg Fell and Tarn are not to be surpassed, 
 the former in its command of Windermere, Rydal, 
 and Grasmere waters — the latter for the quiet, 
 pastoral character of the scenery, which it presents 
 to the eye that delights in simple, unadorned nature. 
 
 A more extended excursion generally performed 
 
 p 3 
 
 %»ltiaiSS^iSt4tSaieMe»^m&»agasJs^a^iii^.<'^^jif-->''. ?wt>-. fe^«^^^l < 
 
162 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 163 
 
 from Ambleside, is that into Langdale, which may 
 be made partly in carriages, although it is more 
 usual to effect it in carts, which wav will indeed be 
 found the most convenient and suitable to the roads, 
 as well as enablinfj the tourist to carrv the neces- 
 sary creature comforts for a mountain ramble. The 
 traveller may proceed, first, to Skelwith Bridge, 
 three miles, just above which is the wild waterfall, 
 called Skelwith Force ; then by a road command- 
 ing views of Elter Water and great Langdale, he 
 may proceed to Colwith Force, five miles from 
 Ambleside. Three miles up Little Langdale, over 
 a slack on the right, is Blea Tarn, so faithfully de- 
 picted in Wordsworth's '* Excursion." Descending 
 the hill to the head of Great Langdale, the Lang- 
 dale Pikes appear immediately in front, with Bow- 
 fell on the left. The conical pike is called Pike of 
 Stickle, and the broad-headed pike, Harrison 
 Stickle. Great Langdale is entered at the farm- 
 house of Wall End, whence Bowfell may be as- 
 cended, or Borrodale penetrated, by passing over 
 the Stake. The regular excursion, however, will 
 bring the tourist down to Millbeck, where he may 
 see the waterfall of Dunfjeon Gill. Still descend- 
 ino^ the valley, he may, when in view of Elter Water, 
 turn to the left, and cross the hill by High Close, 
 whence are interesting views of Windermere and 
 Langdale, on one side, and the vale and lake of 
 Grasmere, on the other. A road back by Lang- 
 dale Chapel, will bring him again to Ambleside, 
 after a circuit of nineteen miles, viz. : 
 
 I 
 
 3 Skelwith Bridge. . . . 
 2 Colwith Force .... 
 2^ Blea Tarn 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 7^ 
 
 4 Dungeon Gill 11.^ 
 
 4 Langdale Chapel .... 15^ 
 3^ Ambleside, by Rydal 19 
 
 IX. AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK.— 16iM. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 AMBLESIDE TO MILES. 
 
 1^ Rydal 1^ 
 
 3^ Swan Inn 5 
 
 2 Raise Gap 7 
 
 H Wythburn Chapel . . 8^ 
 
 MILES. AMBLESIDE TO MILES. 
 
 2| King's Head Inn.... lU 
 
 4 Castle Rigg 15^ 
 
 1 Keswick 16^ 
 
 Rydal Water is one of the smallest of the lakes, 
 but very beautiful from its wooded islands and 
 
 shores, which give it an air of great seclusion. 
 
 (See page 41.) 
 
 Rydal Hall has been converted into a laro^e, 
 staring mansion, from the interesting and pictur- 
 esque form of the old Westmorland hall. In the 
 grounds are two beautiful cascades, extremely pretty 
 as garden scenes. Rydal Mount is the residence 
 of that contemplative, philosophic, and soul-sub- 
 duing poet, Wordsworth. 
 
 Grasmere is a mile beyond Rydal, and is sur- 
 rounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, from 
 any elevated situations on which, and wherever 
 chosen, romantic views may be obtained of this 
 most lovely vale, and its green-enamelled lake, 
 with the fine old church, and the white-washed 
 houses, shininor out from amidst their wood-srirt 
 enclosures. The Swan Inn stands by the road- 
 side, and a little distant on the left, near the church, 
 is the Red Lion, Both these inns will afford suf- 
 
 iaJBtjaafaa 
 
 ilfeliaiffl»jat I 
 
164 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 165 
 
 ficient accommodation for a tourist, disposed to 
 journey into the hidden beauties of this and its 
 auxiliary vale of Easedale. On the left, in passing 
 up this valley, the traveller will observe a lofty 
 conical hill : it is called Helm Crag. The summit 
 is composed of vast rocks, in whose forms fancy 
 has discovered the resemblance of a lion and lamb. 
 
 DuNMAiL Raise is a large cairn, now marking 
 the boundarv line between Westmorland and Cum- 
 berland : tradition ascribes it to the memory of a 
 British king of that name, who was here defeated 
 and slain in battle by Edmund I. of England. A 
 little beyond this dreary and wind-swept pass, there 
 is a view, forward, of the cold and forbidding vale 
 and water of Wythburn, bounded by the sloping 
 sides of Helvellvn and Seat Sandal, on the rio^ht, 
 and by the Borrodale fells, on the left, with Skiddaw 
 closinor in the view to the north. 
 
 Wythburn Chapel — Opposite to this is the Horse 
 Head Inn, the half-way house between Ambleside 
 and Keswick. A guide may be obtained here for 
 ascending Helvellyn, which is most accessible hence. 
 
 Wythburn Water, know^n also as Thirlmere or 
 Loathes Water, is a narrow and deep lake, divided 
 into two by a wooden bridge and piers. The lower 
 end of this water ought to be visited, and a plea- 
 sant, agreeable tour may be made from Keswick, 
 by approaching it along Shoolthwaite Moss, keep- 
 ing up its western side, under Raven Crag, as far 
 as Armboth House. Here crossing the lake, pass 
 through Dalehead park into the public road j 
 
 I 
 
 thence through Legberthwaite, having the castle 
 rock of St. John's on the right, to Threlkeld, and 
 so to Keswick. 
 
 King's Head is a decent house of entertainment, 
 situated in Legberthwaite, a vale which comprises 
 as much pastoral beauty, enclosed in as much stern 
 and wildly-magnificent scenery, as any in the dis- 
 trict. A little beyond this, the picturesque bridge 
 of Smalthwaite spans, with a single arch, St. John's 
 Beck, in its progress to unite its streams with the 
 Glenderamaken and the Glenderaterra, after which 
 it is known as the Greta. 
 
 Castle Rigg* — Before arriving here, you pass 
 through the dreary moss of Shoolthwaite, whence 
 there is a retrospective view of Helvellyn from his 
 base to his crown. The view from Castle Rigg 
 must be left to speak for itself. 
 
 Keswick, a small market-town between the foot 
 of Skiddaw and Derwent Water. It mav be consi- 
 dered as the capital of the Lakes, and is frequented 
 by a great number of visitors during the season, 
 who make excursions from it to the surrounding 
 lakes, valleys, and mountains. It has manufactures 
 of woollens, black lead pencils, and spades, &c. 
 There are two museums, containing many curiosi- 
 ties, and specimens of the mineralogy and geology 
 of the district. Guides, horses, and boats, may be 
 obtained for excursions, and all the accommodations 
 for visitors are good. Population, 2159; market- 
 day, Saturday; inns, Royal Oak and Queens Head* 
 
 F»«ii*^.BMija»faajW«a*^JMfei!R-i&a.-«aaii»iJjt.rf'-t;- ^ajwaitosnit i. 
 
166 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 x. excursion from keswick, round derwent 
 
 Water.— iom. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 2 Barrow House 2 
 
 I Lowdore Inn 3 
 
 1 Grange 4 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 1 Manesty 5 
 
 3^ Portinscale 8^ 
 
 1^ Keswick lo' 
 
 Barrow House is the residence of Joseph Pock- 
 lington, Esq. Behind the house is a cascade, 122 
 feet in height, in two falls. 
 
 Lowdore Inn, — Close to the inn, in the ravine 
 betwixt Gowdar Crag and Shepherd's Crag, is 
 the fall of Lowdore, so whimsically described by 
 Southey. In dry weather, the water almost dis- 
 appears amongst the jumbled pile of rocks, over 
 which, when full, it rushes with tremendous impe- 
 tuosity and force. 
 
 Grange is a small village, at the entrance of the 
 narrow pass which leads into Borrodale. 
 
 Manesty — Near this place is a medicinal spring; 
 and the retrospective view over its woods into 
 Borrodale, is magnificent, especially if seen under 
 the influence of a settinof sun. 
 
 Portinscale is a small village, near the foot of 
 Derwent Water. Near it are situated the villas 
 of Derwent Bay, Derwent Bank, and Derwent 
 Lodge. From the neighbouring heights may be 
 viewed the lakes of Derwent Water and Bassen- 
 thwaite, with all the finely-wooded and fertile countrv 
 reaching from Swinside to Skiddaw. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 167 
 
 XI. KESWICK TO BORRODALE, RETURNING BY 
 WATENDLATH.— 14m. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 3 Lowdore Inn 3 
 
 2 Bowder Stone 5 
 
 1 Rossthwaite 6 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES, 
 
 2 Watendlath 8 
 
 3 Ashness 11 
 
 3 Keswick 14 
 
 Lowdore Inn — Proceeding forward, as in the 
 last route, the tourist must keep the river on his 
 right hand. The pass presents grand and savage 
 scenery, the road in many places making such 
 abrupt windings as to appear occasionally blocked 
 up. The river runs in a deep channel, with rocky 
 banks, considerably below the road, and the moun- 
 tains rise on either hand in rugged and awful pre- 
 cipices. Castle Crag rises up into a bold cone, 
 crested with wood, almost in the middle of the 
 pass. The Romans, with military precision, for- 
 tified this eminence. 
 
 BowDER Stone is a rock of great dimensions, 
 which has probably fallen at some far distant period 
 from the crags above. The stone is 62 feet long, 
 and 36 feet high, its circumference is 89 feet, and 
 it weighs 1971 tons. From this point a fine view 
 of Borrodale is obtained. The village of Ross- 
 thwaite lies in front, overhung as it were by Gla- 
 ramara and Eao^le Crag*. 
 
 Rossthwaite — Near this village is the Chapel of 
 Ease, standing at the point whence the three vales 
 or grains of this extensive valley diverge. Whilst 
 here, the tourist should extend his ramble into 
 Stonethwaite, and return. Refreshment mav be 
 
168 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 had here ; and then let the visitor cross the river 
 behind the inn, and strike right up the fell, imme- 
 diately in front. In this ascent the most splendid 
 and magnificent views open out, which bid defiance 
 to the pen. 
 
 Watendlath is a narrow upland glen, through 
 which runs a mountain stream issuing out of Blea 
 Tarn, lying high up on the lonely fells. A hamlet 
 consistinor of two or three houses, are sweetly re- 
 fleeted in the small tarn, the surplus water of which 
 escapes under an extremely rude but picturesque 
 bridge at its foot. 
 
 Ashness The tourist must then proceed down 
 
 the narrow valley, till he comes into the high road 
 round Derwent Water, by Ashness. Above the 
 fall of Lowdore, the view of the lake of Keswick, 
 with the gleaming surface of Bassenthwaite in the 
 distance, is particularly fine. 
 
 XII. KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE, THROUGH 
 BORRODA.LE.— 23m. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 6 Rossthwaite 6 
 
 2 SeatoUer 8 
 
 4 Gatesgarth 12 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 2 Buttermere 14 
 
 5 Newlands 19 
 
 4 Keswick 23 
 
 SeatoUer is a hamlet in the upper part of Bor- 
 rodale. A carriage may proceed as far as this 
 place ; but here begins the ascent of Borrodale 
 Hawse, and the road is so narrow, rugged, and 
 steep, that cars pass with great difficulty. After 
 reaching the summit, Honister Crag, on the left, 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 169 
 
 and Yew Crag, on the right, come in view. Ho- 
 nister Crag is 1500 feet in height. Passing down 
 a very rugged path, which crosses the water several 
 times, it leads through a desolate valley to the 
 hamlet of Gatesgarth, and the vale of Buttermere. 
 
 BuTTERxMERE is pcHiaps the most deeply-em- 
 bosomed in mountains, of all these fairy sheets of 
 water. It is bordered on the east by woods and 
 meadows, and on the west, by the steeps of High 
 Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike (See page 89.) 
 
 Crummock Water is separated from Butter- 
 mere by a small tract of flat meadow. The head 
 of the lake is beautiful, the middle part grand, and 
 the foot richly adorned with wood. On the west 
 side of Crummock is Scale Force, situated in a 
 deep chasm, and the water-falls, at a single leap, 
 156 feet — (Seepage 89.) 
 
 The road leads up from the inn by the humble 
 little chapel, between Whiteless and Robinson, 
 diversified by little of scenery, till the traveller 
 approaches Keskadale, whence there is a prospect 
 of the smiling vale of Newlands. 
 
 Newlands contains several scattered hamlets, 
 and is intersected by a stream which flows to Bas- 
 senthwaite Water. The mountain called Hind- 
 scar, pushes itself into tho vale with much grandeur. 
 The chapel of ease stands in the pleasantest pan 
 of the vale, near Little Town (See page 92.) 
 
 Pertinscale, — (See page 56.) 
 
 Keswick, — (See page 51.) 
 
 Q 
 
 ttAlbii4h-aask ■*ffl^iiaii?3h'aj»S-fc'iahMg«>'-.fiaa <.« ■jaa.aM-.-a 
 
170 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 XIII. KESWICK TO LOWES WATER, ENNERDALE, x\ND 
 
 WAST WATER— 56m. 
 
 1st Day. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 KESWICK TO 
 
 MILES. 
 
 9 Buttermere,byNevvlands 9 
 
 4 Scalehill 1^ 
 
 2 Lowes Water 15 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES 
 
 4 Lamplugh Cross 19 
 
 3 Ennerdale Bridge .... 22 
 7 Calder Bridge 29 
 
 2nd Day. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 3 Gosforth 3 
 
 4 Strands 7 
 
 6 Wastdale Head 13 
 
 2 Stye Head 15 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 3 Seathwaite 18 
 
 3 Rossthvvaite 21 
 
 6 Keswick 27 
 
 Scalehill, — Here is an excellent inn, situated at 
 the foot of the lake, at which the tourist may arrive, 
 either by the vale of Newlands, or by the nearer 
 route over VVhinlatter, and by Lorton. 
 
 Lowes Water is surrounded by noble mountains, 
 and pours its waters into Crummock Lake. 
 
 Lamplugh Cross — Near this is the old Hall of 
 Lamplugh, situated at the foot of a green hill, 
 commanding an extensive view to the north and 
 north-west. The church is an antique building, 
 near the gateway of the Hall. 
 
 Ennerdale Bridge — Descending the hill to this 
 place, is Stockhow Hall, whence there is a pretty 
 view of the fertile vale of Ennerdale, and of the 
 lake stretching up to the high mountains. There 
 is a public-house here, where refreshment may be 
 had. 
 
 Calder Bridge, — From Ennerdale the traveller 
 must proceed over the bleak fells of Copeland 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 171 
 
 Forest, significantly called Cold Fell, to Calder 
 Bridge, where are two inns, at which accommoda- 
 tion for the night may be obtained. A beautiful 
 walk up the river leads to Calder Abbey, a fine 
 specimen of Norman and early English architecture. 
 Close to the village, in a spacious park, stands 
 Ponsonby Hall. 
 
 On the second day, the tourist must proceed to 
 
 Gosforth^ a large, irregularly-built village, where 
 the antiquarian tourist will be gratified by the in- 
 spection of a tall and beautifully-ornamented pillar, 
 which stands in the churchyard, on the south side. 
 From this village, two roads lead to Wast Water — 
 one directly to the left, over rising grounds, which 
 brings you immediately to the lake ; the other is 
 by the Strands. Here are two good inns, about 
 a mile and a half below the foot of the lake. 
 At Crookhead is a very picturesque cottage. 
 
 Wast Water — The principal approach to this 
 lake is that by which we have introduced the tour- 
 ist to it, viz. by the foot. This lake is well worth 
 the notice of the traveller who is not afraid of 
 fatigue : no part of the country is more distinguish- 
 ed by sublimity. 
 
 Wastdale Head contains only a few scattered 
 houses ; and its small chapel has only eight pews, 
 and is without a burial-ground. 
 
 Stye Head, — From this hamlet, the tourist must 
 ascend the road which winds along the side of 
 Great Gable to the summit of the pass, having the 
 Pikes of Scafell on the right. 
 
 Q 2 
 
 aaifeiiej«>.. ,it.!riaaaAasi-,wit3iSiii tfi<W!*fe '" .k-i/sffJ^v'mtsSk&nVhSin^iis^ti ■ 
 
172 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Seathwiite, — Thence the road leads down into 
 the pastoral vale of Borrodale, having on the left, 
 near this village, the far-famed Wad Mine. 
 
 Hence the road has been described to Keswick. 
 
 XIV. KESWICK TO THIRLMERE AND ST. JOHN'S 
 
 ROCK.— 18m. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 1 Castle Rigg 1 
 
 3 Shoolthwaite Moss . . 4 
 
 2^ Raven Crag 6^ 
 
 \ Armboth House .... 7 
 
 1 Dalehead Hall 8 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 2 Legberthwaite Mill ... 10 
 
 2 Lowthwaite 12 
 
 2 Threlkcld 14 
 
 4 Keswick 18 
 
 This tour has already been noticed, and will be 
 found a very pleasant one. 
 
 XV. WHITEHAVEN TO KESWICK.— 27m. 
 
 MILES. WHITEHAVEN TO MILES. 
 
 2 Moresby 2 
 
 2 Distington 4 
 
 2 Winscales 6 
 
 3 Little Clifton 9 
 
 MILES. WHITEHAVEN TO MILES. 
 
 5 Cockermouth 14 
 
 '2h Enibleton 16^ 
 
 Tji Thornthwaite 23 
 
 4 Keswick 27 
 
 Whitehaven is a well-built town. During the 
 last century, it has risen into importance in conse- 
 quence of its vicinity to the extensive coal-mines 
 of the Earl of Lonsdale. The harbour is large 
 and safe, being protected by an extensive pier, 
 built after a design by Sir John Rennie. Upwards 
 of 140,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported. 
 There are three churches in the town, a Scotch 
 church, and several dissenting meeting-houses. 
 
 177 
 
 TABLE 
 
 OF THE LENGTH, BREADTH, &c. OF THE LAKES, 
 
 COLLECTED FROM DIFFERENT AUTHORITIES. 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 17 
 18 
 19 
 
 Names of Lakes. 
 
 Height 
 
 above sea 
 
 in feet. 
 
 Coniston Water. . . . 
 
 Devoke Water 
 
 Wast Water 
 
 Ennerdale Water. . . 
 
 Buttcrmere 
 
 Crummock Water. . 
 
 Lowes Water 
 
 Thirlmere 
 
 Derwent Water. . . . 
 Bassenthwaite Lake. 
 
 Brother Water 
 
 Ulles Water 
 
 Hawes Water 
 
 Kentmere 
 
 Grasmere 
 
 Rydal Water 
 
 Elter Water 
 
 Windermere 
 
 Esthwaite Water, . . 
 
 273 
 
 • ■ 
 
 546 
 228 
 210 
 
 • • 
 
 318 
 714 
 
 • • 
 
 180 
 156 
 
 • • 
 
 108 
 198 
 
 Lenpth 
 in miles. 
 
 3 — 31 
 
 2i— 
 3 — 
 
 3. 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3.. 
 4 
 
 -21 
 
 3^ 
 
 Brcadtli 
 in miles. 
 
 2 
 
 3. 
 
 i- 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 1^ 
 
 9 — 
 3 — 
 
 ^— 1 
 
 10 —12 
 2 — 11 
 
 I — 
 
 1 — 
 
 I —2 
 
 Depth 
 in futnums. 
 
 27—30 
 
 45— 
 13— 
 15— 
 22— 
 10— 
 18— 
 14— 
 12— 
 12— 
 35— 
 50— 
 
 12— 
 9— 
 
 40—37 
 13— 
 
 Q 3 
 
178 
 
 179 
 
 ELEVATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, 
 
 ACCORDING TO DIFFERENT AUTHORITIES. 
 
 Names of Mountains. 
 
 1 
 O 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 20 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 
 Sea Fell Pike 
 
 Sea Fell 
 
 Helvellyn 
 
 Skiddaw 
 
 Bow Fell .' ] 
 
 Rydal Head .. .. *.". 
 Great Gavel, Wastdale . . 
 
 Fairfield 
 
 Cross Fell, near Alston 
 
 Pillar 
 
 Grasmoor 
 
 Red Pike, Buttcrmere . . 
 Blencathra, Saddleback.. 
 Kentmere High Street .. 
 Grisedale Pike .. .. 
 Conision Old Man.. .. 
 
 Hill Bell 
 
 I.an2:dale Pikes 
 
 Carrick, near Caldbeck . . 
 
 Calf Hill 
 
 Nine St:indards,Yorkshire 
 
 and Wastend 
 High Pike, Caldbeck .. 
 
 Causey Pike 
 
 Coat Scar, II awes Water 
 
 Black Com!)e 
 
 Lord's Seat .. 
 
 ^^'aMs Fell 
 
 Cat Bell '.*. 
 
 I-atrlg- 
 
 Dent, near Whitehaven. . 
 Pennih I5eacon 
 
 Kendal Fell 
 
 Scilly Bank, Whitehaven 
 Fgremont 
 
 Dal ton. 
 
 3240 
 3210 
 3180 
 30y0 
 3090 
 
 2901 
 
 28r,5 
 2850 
 
 2736 
 
 • • 
 
 2580 
 243G 
 
 2232 
 
 1989 
 
 1020 
 648 
 
 Otley. 
 
 138 
 
 3160 
 3100 
 3070 
 3022 
 2911 
 
 2925 
 2950 
 
 • • 
 
 2893 
 275G 
 
 2787 
 2700 
 2580 
 2577 
 
 2400 
 2110 
 
 Tri". S. 
 
 Jamiesoii 
 
 2030 
 
 1919 
 1728 
 1590 
 1448 
 IIGO 
 
 3166 
 
 2789 
 
 2680 
 2576 
 
 2290 
 
 2101 
 2040 
 
 1115 
 
 500 
 293 
 
 3313 
 
 3383 
 
 2889 
 
 2000 
 2188 
 
 2136 
 
 No. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 
 WATERFALLS. 
 
 Name and Situation of Fall. 
 
 Scale Force, near Buttermere 
 
 Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside. . . 
 
 Stockgill Force, near Ambleside 
 
 Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick. . . 
 
 Lowdore Fall, near Keswick 
 
 Dungeon Gill, Langdale 
 
 Sour Milk Force, near Buttermere 
 
 Airey Force, Gowbarrow Park 
 
 Rydal Fall, near Ambleside 
 
 Birker Force, Eskdale 
 
 Stanley Gill, near Eskdale 
 
 Nunnery Fall, one mile from Kirkoswald 
 
 Skelwith Force 
 
 Howk, Caldbeck 
 
 Height. 
 
 sd&tinaiii,u&esae£st'VJi!^s aaioatrfacr ;^ 
 
180 
 
 
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 ITINERARY. 
 
 173 
 
 Steam-packets ply between Dublin and Whiteliaven 
 regularly, as well as Liverpool, the Isle of Man, 
 and Scotland. This town sends one member to 
 Parliament. Population, 11,393; market-days, 
 Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; inns, Black 
 Ziion, Golden Lion, and Globe, 
 CocKERMouTH. — (Scc page 8L) 
 
 Bassenthwaite Water (See page 85.) 
 
 Keswick. — (See page 51.) 
 
 XVI. WORKINGTON TO KESWICK.--21M. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Workington to Cockermouth, 8 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Cockermouth to Keswick, 13 
 
 Workington, a sea-port of Cumberland, situ- 
 ated on the south bank of the Derwent; has a 
 good harbour, and an extensive trade in coal, from 
 the valuable collieries of Henry Curwen, Esq., and 
 several other collieries, many of which are at a con- 
 siderable distance. On the east side of the town 
 is Workington Hall, the manor-house of the ancient 
 family of Curwen, finely situated on an elevated 
 position above the river. It is remarkable as 
 having afforded an asylum to the unfortunate and 
 persecuted Mary Queen of Scots, when she landed 
 at Workington. Population, 6415 ; market-day, 
 Wednesday ; inns, Green Dragon, New Crown, and 
 King's Arms, 
 
 Q 3 
 
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 ITINERARY. 
 
 173 
 
 Steam-packets ply between Dublin and Whiteliaven 
 regularly, as well as Liverpool, the Isle of Man, 
 and Scotland. This town sends one member to 
 Parliament. Population, 11,393; market-days, 
 Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; inns, Black 
 Lion, Golden Lion, and Globe, 
 CocKERMouTH. — (Scc page 8L) 
 Bassenthwaite Water, — (See page 85.) 
 Keswick, — (See page 51.) 
 
 XVI. WORKINGTON TO KESWICK.— 21m. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Workington to Cockermouth, 8 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Cockermouth to Keswick, 13 
 
 Workington, a sea-port of Cumberland, situ- 
 ated on the south bank of the Derwent; has a 
 good harbour, and an extensive trade in coal, from 
 the valuable collieries of Henry Curwen, Esq., and 
 several other collieries, many of which are at a con- 
 siderable distance. On the east side of the town 
 is Workington Hall, the manor-house of the ancient 
 family of Curwen, finely situated on an elevated 
 position above the river. It is remarkable as 
 having afforded an asylum to the unfortunate and 
 persecuted Mary Queen of Scots, when she landed 
 at Workington. Population, 6415 ; market-day, 
 Wednesday ; inns, Green Dragon, New Crown, and 
 King's Arms, 
 
 Q 3 
 
174 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 175 
 
 XVIII. KESWICK TO PENRITH.— 17^m. 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 4 Threlkeld 4 
 
 1^ Penruddock 11^ 
 
 MILES. KESWICK TO MILES. 
 
 3^ Stainton 15 
 
 2| Penrith 17^ 
 
 Threlkeld On the right is seen the truly-inte- 
 resting valley of St. John, at the high end of which 
 is a mass of rock, called the Castle Rock of St. 
 John. 
 
 Penruddock About three miles to the left, and 
 
 visible from the high-road, is Greystoke Castle, 
 the seat of Henry Howard, Esq., a fine and ancient 
 structure; containing some splendid pictures, and 
 many objects of curiosity. 
 
 Penrith, — (See page 131.) 
 
 XVIII. PENRITH TO CARLISLE.— 18m. 
 
 MILES. PENRITH TO MILES. 
 
 4^ Salkeld Great 4.1 
 
 i Plumpton 5 
 
 44 High Hesket 9^ 
 
 H Low Hesket 10| 
 
 MILES. PENRITH TO MILES. 
 
 4| Carleton 15^ 
 
 1 Harraby 16^ 
 
 H Carlisle 13 
 
 Plumpton, — On the left are the ruins of Old 
 Penrith, formerly a Roman station, traces of which 
 still remain. It was 170 \ards from south to north, 
 and 110 from east to west. The station is about 
 200 yards from the river Petteril. The ramparts 
 are still hi^^h, and the ditch very visible. Horsley 
 supposes it to have been Bremetereracum, 
 
 High Hesket, a large village, half-way between 
 
 Carlisle and Penrith. Has an excellent inn, the 
 White Ox, On the right is Tarn Wadling, a lake 
 covering about one hundred acres of land. 
 Carlisle — (See page 100.) 
 
 XIX. 
 
 SKETCH OF A TOUR FROM CARLISLE TO THE LAKES, 
 
 Comprising most interesting and beautiful Scenery. 
 
 " Carlisle — Bush and Crown and Mitre inns, 
 excellent— Cathedral— Castle:— Corby Castle, the 
 
 picturesque seat of Henry Howard, Esq Castle 
 
 and walks shown every Wednesday— will occupy 
 a day ; returning to Carlisle. 
 
 " Leaving Carlisle, at six miles on the London 
 road, by the left, proceed to the village of Arma- 
 thwaite; cross the river Eden, by the right, to 
 
 Nunnery, the seat of Francis Aglionby, Esq the 
 
 walks on the Eden and Croglin rivers are magni- 
 ficent, and shown daily; cross the river Croglin 
 to Staffbld Hall— the walks on the Eden and Croo-lin 
 rivers, equally splendid, are shown on Fridav; 
 through the market-town of Kirkoswald, on the 
 left, and then on the right, through Glassonby; 
 then on the right, in half a mile, on the right in a 
 field, a slight deviation from the road, there is a 
 druidical monument, called ' Long Meg and her 
 Daughters,' consisting of one very high stone, and 
 about sixty others, forming a circle, the property 
 of Colonel Lacy of Eden Lacy ; through the village 
 
 8-'JJS5i!t.N.>Wt?r'ri1fatif>ll»fa.iim Xf.>i 
 
 ■ tsutiai£t.'j:^:stis^ai^iaiAdiKlssitSiti4£ia*-iX3it flJgfeTisaftvfj 
 
176 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 of Little Salkeld to Longwathby ; cross the river 
 Eden to Penrith — Crown Hotel and George Inn^ 
 excellent. The drive is about twentv-seven miles, 
 and four horses in posting, &c., recommended. 
 
 " Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lons- 
 dale — Castle and grounds shown daily; from Low- 
 ther, on the left, cross the river Lowther to Euse- 
 mere, at the foot of Ulleswater Lake ; proceed to 
 the head of the lake, Patterdale ; returning down 
 the lake, Lyulph's Tower, the property of Henry 
 Howard, Esq. of Greystoke Castle — a cascade in 
 the grounds — proceed down the lake, and by the 
 banks of the river Eamont to Penrith. 
 
 " Leave Penrith for Keswick, Derwent Water, and 
 Bassenthwaite Lakes, Borrowdale, Barrow Cascade ; 
 from Kesw^ick to Cockermouth, bv Bassenthwaite 
 Lake, Buttermere Lake, and Scale Force Cascade, 
 Lowes Water Lake, Crummock Lake. Return to 
 Keswick by the same road, or by Whinlatter Fell. 
 
 *' Leave Keswick for Ambleside, Grasmere Lake, 
 Rydal Cascade, Windermere Lake, Coniston Lake, 
 &c. — Leave Ambleside for Kendal." 
 
 181 
 
 ROUTE. 
 
 POSTING LINE OF ROAD FROM CARLISLE TO LONDON. 
 
 Towns. 
 
 Penrith 
 
 Appleby 
 
 Brough 
 
 Greta Bridge 
 
 Catterick Bridge .. 
 Leeming Lane .... 
 Borough Bridge. . . . 
 
 Wetherby 
 
 Ferry Bridge 
 
 Doncaster 
 
 Barnby Moor 
 
 Scarthing Moor 
 
 Newark 
 
 Grantham 
 
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 Wansford 
 
 Alconbury Hill .... 
 
 Eaton 
 
 Biggleswade 
 
 Stevenage 
 
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 Barnet 
 
 London 
 
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 Angel 
 
 Angel 
 
 Angel. 
 
 Bell 
 
 Black Lion 
 
 Clinton Arms . . 
 
 George 
 
 Bull 
 
 Hay Cock 
 
 Wheat Sheaf 
 
 Cock 
 
 Lion 
 
 Swan 
 
 Salisbury Arms 
 Green Man 
 
 • • • • 
 
 Innkeepers. 
 
 Foster 
 Herd . 
 
 Kilvington.. 
 Martin .... 
 
 Fryer 
 
 Couldwell . . 
 
 Cook 
 
 Clemishaw.. 
 Atkinson . . 
 Brooks .... 
 
 Inett 
 
 Sharpe .... 
 Lawton .... 
 Burbidge . . 
 Hardy .... 
 Percival .... 
 "Warsop , . . . 
 Walker .... 
 Mitchell. . . . 
 
 Cass 
 
 Townsend . . 
 Newman . . 
 
 Miles 
 
 18 
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 19 
 14 
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 12 
 12 
 17 
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 14 
 13 
 11 
 14 
 10 
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 16 
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 14 
 12 
 
 9 
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INDEX. 
 
 Aaron End 
 Airey Force 
 Allithwaite 
 Allonby. . 
 Ambleside. . 
 
 17,27 
 Fells 
 Hall 
 
 Angle barrow . . 
 Angle Tarn . . 
 Angling Stone . 
 Applethwaite . . 
 Armathwaite Castle 
 Hall 
 
 32, 
 
 Arraboth 
 
 Amside 
 
 Ascent of the Old Man 
 
 Ashness .. 53,61,168 
 
 Arthur's Round Table 133 
 
 Askham .. .. 135 
 
 69 
 
 146 
 
 155 
 
 64 
 
 161 
 
 16 
 
 34 
 
 80 
 
 143 
 
 80 
 
 30, 53 
 
 125 
 
 85 
 
 49 
 
 155 
 
 10 
 
 B 
 
 Bampton 
 Barnscar 
 Baron Wood . . 
 Barrow Cascade. . 55, 
 
 ' Common 
 
 ■ ■ House 
 
 Barton. . 
 Bassenthwaite . 
 
 ' Haws , 
 
 Bays Brown 
 
 Beathwaite Green 
 Beauthorn 
 Beetham 
 Belle Grange .. 
 
 Isle 
 
 Bellman Ground 
 Belo River 
 
 137 
 
 13 
 
 124 
 
 61, 166 
 
 55 
 
 166 
 
 142 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 69 
 
 19 
 
 143 
 
 150 
 
 25,30 
 
 26 
 
 25,27 
 
 17 
 
 Berkshire Island 
 Bewcastle 
 Binsey.. 
 Birdoswald 
 BirkbyFell .. 
 Birk Fell 
 Birker Force . . 
 Birkrigg 
 
 Blackcombe . . 
 Black Sale 
 Blake Fell 
 
 Rigg 
 
 Blea Tarn 
 Bleabury Fell . . 
 Blelham Tarn . . 
 Blencathra 
 Blenkinsopp Castle 
 Blowick 
 
 Bolton-le-Sands 
 Bootle . . 
 Bordale . 
 Borrodale 
 
 Chapel 
 
 Hawse 
 
 Bowderdale 
 
 Bowder Stone 
 
 Bowness 17, 23, 27, 28,' 158 
 
 27 
 
 102 
 
 64 
 
 115 
 
 13 
 
 144 
 
 13 
 
 157 
 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 80 
 
 44 
 
 37, 61, 143 
 
 92 
 
 34 
 
 . - 50, 65 
 
 118 
 
 148 
 
 J 52 
 
 .. 14, 15 
 
 145 
 
 56, 61, 66 
 
 68 
 
 168 
 
 72 
 
 67, 167 
 
 Church 
 Rectory 
 Knot. . 
 
 Bowscale 
 
 Bradness 
 
 Braithwaite 
 
 Brampton 
 
 Brandelow 
 
 Branstree 
 
 Brathay . 
 
 ' Bridg( 
 
 ■ Park. 
 
 R 2 
 
 28 
 .. 27, 29 
 80 
 95 
 85 
 58 
 
 118 
 56 
 
 138 
 
 23, 28, 34 
 
 36 
 
 31 
 
 lUl^iiiljW^ii^ttMiiiHliiSJy 
 
184 
 
 Bridekirk 
 Brother Water . 
 Brougham Castle 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hall 
 
 Broughton 
 Brow Top 
 Brundholm 
 Bull Crag 
 Burn moor Tarn 
 Butterlip How. . 
 Buttermere 
 
 ■■ ■ Moss 
 
 Hawse 
 
 Caldbeck 
 Calder Abbey . . 
 
 Bridge . . 
 
 Caldew . 
 Calgarth 
 
 Park 
 
 Camcoom Head 
 Capon Tree . . 
 Carleton 
 Carlisle 
 Castle , 
 
 24 
 
 84 
 
 149 
 
 134 
 
 133 
 
 12, 15 
 
 51 
 
 66 
 
 48 
 
 72 
 
 42,44 
 
 89, 169 
 
 89 
 
 90 
 
 96 
 
 73 
 
 71 
 
 97 
 
 23 
 
 27,30 
 
 88 
 
 118 
 
 174 
 
 100 
 
 102 
 
 103 
 
 107 
 
 106 
 
 1, 
 
 Cathedral 
 
 Grammar School 
 
 Infirmary 
 
 ■■ and Liverpool Steamers 
 
 107, 115, 119 
 
 Carnforth ,. .. 152 
 
 Carrick Fell 
 Carrs . . 
 Cartmel 
 
 Bay 
 
 Holy Well 
 
 95 
 37 
 
 3, 155 
 5 
 
 3, 155 
 
 Castle Crag 50, 57, 66, 167 
 
 Head 
 
 Hill 
 
 How 
 
 Catbells 
 Caton . . 
 Causey Pikes 
 Chapelhill 
 City . . 
 Claife .. 
 
 58 
 
 53 
 
 80 
 
 50, 65 
 
 55, 64 
 
 154 
 
 64 
 
 159 
 
 48 
 
 17 
 
 Clappersgate 
 
 Claughton 
 
 Cleator 
 
 Clifton 
 
 Cocker 
 
 Cockermouth 
 
 Church 
 Castle 
 
 Cockley Beck . . 
 Cockshot 
 Coldale Fell . . 
 Colwith Force . . 
 Conishead Priory 
 Coniston Church 
 
 Water 
 
 Hall 
 
 Fells 
 
 Old Man 
 
 Cooms.. 
 Copeland Forest 
 Corby . . 
 Countess' Pillar 
 Cowbridge 
 L/raKe • • • • 
 
 Criffel .. 
 Croglin 
 Crosby . 
 Crossdale 
 Cross Fell 
 Crosthwaite . . 
 
 Crow Holm 
 Park 
 
 Church 
 
 2,8, 
 9, 
 
 Crummock Water 
 Cumwhitton .. 
 Curwen's or Belle Isle 
 
 D 
 
 Dacre . . 
 Dalegarth Hall 
 Dalehead Hall. 
 
 Park 
 
 Dalemain 
 Dalston 
 
 Hall . 
 
 Dalton 
 
 Deargarth Cascades 
 
 Deepdale < . 
 
 23,36 
 
 154 
 
 79 
 
 134 
 
 82,83 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 
 12 
 
 58 
 
 43 
 
 37, 162 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8, 10 
 
 124 
 
 75 
 
 119 
 
 134 
 
 149 
 
 8 
 
 102 
 
 126, 127 
 
 108 
 
 80 
 
 60 
 
 52 
 
 45 
 
 29 
 
 53, 57 
 
 90, 169 
 
 124 
 
 26,29 
 
 142 
 
 13 
 
 49,50 
 
 164 
 
 142 
 
 99 
 
 99 
 
 5,56 
 
 49 
 
 149 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Deepthwaite .. 
 Denton 
 Derwent River 
 
 Vale .. 
 
 " Water 
 
 Dockwray 
 Dolly. Waggon Pike 
 Dowthwaite . . 
 Dove Crag 
 
 Nest 
 
 Druid's Circle 
 Drummer's Stile 
 Duddon 
 
 Dufton Pikes .. 
 Dunald Millhole 
 Dungeon Gill . . 
 Dunmallet 
 Dunmail Raise 
 
 53 
 
 153 
 115 
 . 56, 81 
 86 
 64, 166 
 147 
 46 
 147 
 149 
 27 
 59 
 23 
 . 12, 15 
 132 
 152 
 38 
 143 
 45, 164 
 
 £ 
 
 Eagle Crag 
 Eaglesfield 
 Eamont 
 
 ■ Bridge 
 
 Easedale 
 
 ■ ■ Tarn. 
 
 Eden .. 
 
 Edenhall 
 
 Edmund Castle 
 
 Egremont 
 
 Ehen . . 
 
 Elevation of Mountai 
 
 Elleray. . 
 
 Elter Water .. 
 
 Embleton 
 
 Ennerdale Bridge 
 
 — Water 
 
 Eskdale 
 Esthwaite Hall 
 
 ■ Water 
 
 Etterby Scar . . 
 
 F 
 
 Fairfield 
 Fairy's Kettle . . 
 Fairy Kirk 
 Falcon Crag . . 
 Featherstone Castle 
 Fell Foot 
 
 68 
 81 
 132, 134 
 135 
 43 
 . 24,44 
 124, 125 
 130 
 124 
 75 
 75, 79 
 ns 178 
 '23 
 2-1,39 
 85 
 81, 170 
 79 
 13 
 17 
 16, 17, 158 
 101 
 
 9, 12, 34 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 92 
 
 118 
 
 . 27,37 
 
 Ferry House . . 
 
 Inn 
 
 Fisher Crag . . 
 Floating Island 
 Flookboro' 
 Floutern Tarn . . 
 Foe Park 
 Fordingdale Beck 
 Friar Crag 
 Furness Abbey 
 Fells . . 
 
 G 
 
 Gable .. 
 Gait Crags 
 Gale . . 
 Gatesgarth 
 Gavel Fell 
 Gelt Bridge, Low 
 Middle 
 
 Giant's Thumb 
 Giller Coom . . 
 Giilerthwaite . . 
 Gilsland Spa . . 
 Glaramara 
 Glencoin 
 Glenderamaken 
 Glenderaterra 
 Glenridden 
 Goat's Water . . 
 Goldrill Beck . . 
 
 Crag . . 
 
 Goldscope 
 Goody Bridge . . 
 Gosforth 
 Gowbarrow . . 
 Gowdar Crag . . 
 Grange 
 Grasmere 
 
 185 
 
 . 29, 158 
 
 27 
 
 48 
 
 54 
 
 156 
 
 80 
 
 56 
 
 138 
 
 58 
 
 .. 2, 6 
 
 .. 15, 29 
 
 Church & 
 - Fells . 
 Red Lion 
 
 I 
 It 
 
 Grasmire 
 Grathwaite 
 Graysdale Tarn 
 Greystoke Castle 
 
 ■ Park 
 
 Great Dodd . . 
 
 3 
 
 71 
 
 50 
 34 
 
 88 
 80 
 118 
 118 
 131 
 69 
 80 
 115 
 55 
 147 
 (]5 
 65 
 147 
 12 
 143 
 .. 12, 13 
 93 
 44 
 . 73, 171 
 144, 146 
 . . 55, 56 
 . 56, 166 
 . 41, 163 
 Rectory 43 
 .. 9, 16 
 43 
 64 
 25 
 148 
 133, 174 
 95 
 49 
 
 ai..,.».f»...iigyi.^.»>.-.j^-;jj-^Jt ■ ■ — .u«* ..■<■'■ . -■^.-■r«Ariae..jjlM»MMttajg-iHa^.aiai>.i.^||tijMliriitmi11^ 
 
186 
 
 Great End 
 Green Crag . 
 Greenup 
 Greta . . 
 Grisdale Beck . 
 
 Pike . 
 
 Grizedale 
 Gunner's How 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 70 
 
 62 
 
 68 
 
 165 
 
 143 
 
 92 
 
 .. 56, 64 
 
 27, 16, 30 
 
 59, 
 
 H 
 
 Hackthorpe . . 
 Hale . . 
 Hallin Fell . . 
 HaDsteads 
 Hard Knot 
 Harrop Tarn . . 
 Harter Fell 
 Hartshop 
 
 Hall 
 
 Hasness 
 Hawes Water . . 
 Hawksdale 
 Hawkshead 
 Church 
 
 Old Hall 
 
 Haycock 
 
 Haystacks 
 
 Hayton 
 
 . Church 
 
 Heathwaite 
 
 Helm Crag 
 
 Helvellyn 
 
 Hen Holm Island 
 
 Herd House .. 
 
 Hest Bank 
 
 Hesket- New-Market 
 
 Heversham . . 
 
 High Broad Rain 
 
 Crag 
 
 Hesket .. 
 
 Nook 
 
 Pike 
 
 Stile 
 
 Street . . 
 
 - Wray 
 Hill Bell 
 Hindscarth 
 Hind Crag 
 
 137, 
 
 t m 
 
 15, 
 
 141 
 75 
 
 143 
 
 145 
 37 
 48 
 
 138 
 
 149 
 
 149 
 88 
 
 159 
 99 
 
 158 
 77 
 16 
 72 
 68 
 
 119 
 
 124 
 
 23 
 
 42, 164 
 
 9,46 
 
 26 
 
 80 
 
 155 
 96 
 
 153 
 44 
 93 
 
 174 
 80 
 95 
 88 
 26, 31 
 25,30 
 26 
 64 
 69 
 
 17, 
 
 Hindsgarth 
 Holker Hall , 
 Hollin Grove . 
 Holm Hill 
 
 Crag . 
 
 HonistarCrag 
 Hornby 
 Castle 
 
 93 
 
 .. 4, 156 
 
 44 
 
 99 
 
 56 
 
 ..88, 169 
 
 154 
 
 154 
 
 Horse Head Inn, Wythburn 45 
 How Hall 
 Town 
 
 Howk . . 
 Ho wray 
 
 Humphrey Head 
 Hutton Moor . . 
 
 Hall . . 
 
 ■ John . . 
 
 Introduction 
 Ings . , 
 Ingleborough 
 Ireby .. 
 Iron Crags 
 Irt 
 
 Irthing 
 Irthington 
 Isthmus 
 Ivy Cottage 
 — Crag 
 Jenkin Hill 
 
 23. 
 
 K 
 
 Karl Lofts 
 Keer . . 
 Kendal 
 
 Kent 
 
 Castle 
 
 Castlehow Hill 
 
 Church 
 
 St. George's . . 
 
 White Hall . . 
 
 Bank 
 Mere 
 Sands 
 
 Kentmere Tarn 
 
 Hall 
 
 Keppel Cove Tarn 
 
 80 
 144 
 
 96 
 
 57 
 3 
 
 60 
 133 
 142 
 
 1. 
 
 IfiO 
 
 155 
 
 64 
 
 50 
 
 14,72 
 
 108 
 
 108 
 
 92 
 
 41 
 
 35 
 
 92 
 
 141 
 2 
 19, 153 
 20 
 20 
 21 
 21 
 20 
 
 18, 19, 20 
 
 3 
 
 139 
 
 3 
 
 159 
 
 .. 139 
 
 46 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 Keskadale 
 Keswick 
 
 Church 
 
 Kidsty Pike . . 
 King Water . . 
 
 ..93, 169 
 
 51, 165 
 
 52 
 
 138 
 
 108 
 
 King's Heud, Legberthwaite 50 
 Kirkby Lonsdale 17, 154 
 
 Stephen .. 132 
 
 108 
 
 72 
 
 128 
 
 128 
 
 129 
 
 149 
 
 81 
 
 65 
 
 Kirkcambeck 
 
 Kirkfell 
 
 Kirkoswald . . 
 
 Church and Castle 
 
 College 
 
 Kirkstone 
 Knockmurton 
 Knott Crags 
 
 143. 
 
 Lamplugh Cross 
 Hall 
 
 Lancaster 
 
 ' Sands 
 
 Lanercost 
 Langdale Chapel 
 
 Head 
 
 ' Little . . 
 
 Pikes . . 
 
 170 
 
 81 
 
 1,2, 151 
 
 .. 2, 155 
 
 109 
 
 ..39, 162 
 
 . . 24, 39 
 
 ..37,162 
 
 . 25,36, 162 
 
 C8 
 
 • • • • ^ J 
 
 . . 53, 6G 
 
 128 
 
 47 
 
 West side of 62 
 
 ..49, 165 
 
 Mill . . 63 
 
 Lemon Hall . . . . 143 
 
 Length & Breadth of Lakes 1 77 
 
 Langstreth 
 Langthwaite , 
 Latrigg 
 Lazonby 
 Leathes Water 
 
 Legberthwaite 
 
 Leven River 
 
 Sands 
 
 Leven's Bridge 
 
 Chapel 
 
 Hall .. 
 
 W^ater 
 
 Lile Fell 
 
 Lily of the Valley Island 
 
 Lingholm 
 
 Lingmell 
 Lingmire 
 
 11, 24,27 
 4, 156 
 153 
 18 
 18 
 11 
 65 
 29 
 26 
 71 
 36 
 
 Linthwaite Pike 
 
 Little Salkeld . . 
 
 Liza 
 
 Long Bridge . . 
 
 Meg 
 
 Longwathby . . 
 Lonscale 
 Lord's Island . . 
 
 Oak . . 
 
 Seat 
 
 Lorton . . 
 Loughrigg 
 
 Lowdore 
 
 Fell. . 
 Tarn 
 
 Inn 
 
 Low House 
 Lowes Water 
 Lowick. . 
 
 • Bridge. . 
 
 Lowther 
 Lowthvvaite . . 
 Low Hesket . . 
 
 Water .. 
 
 Wood Inn 
 
 Lune .. 
 Lyulph's Tower 
 
 M 
 
 Man, Isle of . . 
 
 Maiden Moor . . 
 
 Manesty 
 
 Mardale 
 
 Martindale 
 
 Maryport 
 
 Matterdale 
 
 Mayburgh 
 
 Mei break 
 
 Mell Fell 
 
 Middle Fell . . 
 
 Tongue 
 
 IMilbeck in Lano:dale 
 
 187 
 
 65 
 
 128, 130 
 
 80 
 
 57 
 
 129 
 
 130 
 
 56 
 
 . . 54, 92 
 
 40 
 
 85 
 
 91 
 
 35 
 
 35 
 
 53, 55, 166 
 
 . . 56, 66 
 
 124 
 
 91, 170 
 
 8 
 
 .. 8, 157 
 
 135 
 
 63 
 
 .. 174 
 
 11 
 
 27, 31, 160 
 o 
 
 • • ^ 
 
 .. 146 
 
 Miller 
 
 Bassenthwaite 
 
 Bridge 
 ■ Ground 
 
 INIilnthorpe 
 Mirehouse 
 Mite . . 
 Monarch Isle 
 
 2 17 
 
 11, 15 
 93 
 
 166 
 
 138 
 
 145 
 
 64 
 
 147 
 
 133 
 
 90 
 
 92 
 
 72 
 
 46 
 
 38 
 
 87 
 
 35 
 
 20 
 
 152 
 
 87 
 
 14 
 
 23 
 
 € 
 
 tt*a»a»^ai(5<Mi&fc,«3g?..:Ka.i*H»iiMi&'.Jk»'jiri^^ 
 
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188 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Morecambe Bay 
 Mosedale in Seathwaite 
 Mossdale 
 Muncaster Castle 
 
 Mungrisdale 
 
 Nab Scar 
 Naddle Fell . 
 Nanbield Pass 
 Naworth 
 Nether Beck 
 
 N 
 
 Bridge 
 
 — Wasdale 
 
 Nettleslack Bridge 
 
 Newby Bridge. . 
 
 Newcastle & Carlisle Railw.107 
 
 24 
 12 
 95 
 13 
 94 
 
 34 
 
 48,60 
 
 139 
 
 112 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 73 
 
 13 
 
 27 
 
 Newfield 
 Newlands 
 Nibthwaite 
 Nichol Forest 
 Nook Bridge 
 Nunnery 
 
 O 
 
 Oaks . . 
 Old Man 
 
 Penrith . . 
 
 Orchard House 
 Orest Head . . 
 Ormathwaite . . 
 Orton . . 
 Over Beck 
 
 Bridge 
 
 Oxen Houses 
 
 Papcastle 
 Patterdale 
 Pavey Ark 
 Peel Castle 
 
 Island . . 
 
 Penny Bridge . . 
 Penrith 
 
 Beacon . . 
 
 Castle 
 
 Penruddock . . 
 Petteril River . . 
 
 13 
 
 92, 1C9 
 
 9,67. Ill 
 
 124 
 
 34 
 
 126 
 
 99 
 
 10 
 
 174 
 
 115 
 
 160 
 
 53, 63 
 
 22 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 9 
 
 84 
 
 148 
 
 38 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 1, 131 
 
 132 
 
 132 
 
 174 
 
 100 
 
 Pillar 80 
 
 Place Fell . . . . 144 
 Plumpton .. .. 174 
 
 Plumptree Bank & Hall 153 
 Ponsonby Hall 74, 75, 171 
 Pooley Bridge . . 142 
 
 Portinscale .. 56, 166 
 
 Posting & Coaching Routes 180 
 Priestman . . . . 65 
 
 Prospect Hill . . . . 1 28 
 
 R 
 
 Raise Beck . . . . 44 
 
 Glass .. ..24,43 
 
 Rampsbeck . . . . 143 
 
 Rampsholm . . . . 54 
 
 Randerson's Band . . 67 
 
 Rannerdale Knott . . 90 
 
 Raven Crag . . . . 48 
 
 Ravenglass .. ..14,15 
 
 Rawlinson's Nab . . 24, 25 
 
 Rayrigg ,. ..24,25 
 
 Red Lion, Grasmere . . 43 
 
 Pike . . . . 64, 88 
 
 Tarn .. ., 46 
 
 Rickerby .. .. 101 
 
 Riggendale .. .. 138 
 
 Robinson . . . . 64, 89 
 
 Rose Castle . . . . 97 
 
 Hill .. .. 115 
 
 Rosthwaite .. 67, 167 
 
 Rotliay .. 24,41,44 
 
 Rougha Bridge .. 50 
 Route from Carlisle to Lond. 181 
 
 Rydal Falls . . . . 40 
 
 Fells .. .. 9, 16 
 
 Hall .. 40, 163 
 
 Mount .. 41, 163 
 
 Water .. 41, 163 
 
 Saddleback 
 Sadgill . . 
 St. Bees 
 
 College 
 
 St. Cuthbert . . 
 St. Herbert's Island 
 St. John's Beck .. 
 
 65 
 
 140, 159 
 
 77 
 
 78 
 
 105 
 
 54 
 
 50, 166 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 189 
 
 St. John's Chapel 
 
 -Dodd 
 
 Rock . . 
 
 -Vale 
 
 St. Mary 
 
 Ulverstone 
 
 St. Mary's Holme 
 St. Sunday Crag 
 Sea Fell 
 
 Scale Force 
 
 Hill 
 
 Scales .. 
 
 Tarn .. 
 
 Scandale Beck 
 
 Bridge 
 
 Fell .. 
 
 Scarf Gap 
 Scarness 
 Screes . . 
 Seathwaite 
 
 62, 
 
 ■ Bridge 
 
 • Chapel 
 
 ■ Dodd 
 
 Tarn 
 
 Village 
 
 Seatoller 
 Seaton Nun . . 
 
 Hall .. 
 
 Seat Sandal . . 
 Sebergham 
 Shap Abbey . . 
 Shaws Hotel, Gilsland 
 Shepherd's Crag 
 Shire Stones . . 
 Shoolthwaite . . 
 Silver How, in Langdale 
 Grasmere 
 
 63 
 
 92 
 174 
 49 
 109 
 4 
 109 
 46 
 . 39, 70 
 89 
 91, 170 
 65 
 65 
 34, 161 
 34 
 . 29, 33 
 80 
 85 
 73 
 12, 172 
 69 
 13 
 92 
 12 
 . 68, 69 
 69, 168 
 14 
 14 
 42 
 97 
 140 
 115 
 56 
 12 
 49 
 39 
 42 
 
 Sizergh Hall .. 19, 153 
 
 Skelgill .. .. 25,34 
 
 Skelwith Force . . 24, 3 7 
 
 Bridge .. 161 
 
 Sketch of a Tour .. 175 
 
 Skiddaw .. ,. 63 
 
 Sleddale, Long . . 140 
 
 Smalthwaite Bridge .. 50 
 
 Small Water .. 139, 159 
 
 Smithy Beck . . . . 80 
 
 Solway .. .. 64 
 
 Sour-Milk GiU 
 Souter Fell .. 
 Sprinkling Tarn 
 Sprint River . . 
 Stable Field . . 
 Staflfold Hall . . 
 Stainmore 
 Stair Mill 
 Stake . . 
 Stanley Gill . . 
 Stanwix 
 Station House 
 Stavely . . 
 
 ' Nether 
 
 Steel Bridge . . 
 
 Fell 
 
 Stickle Tarn .. 
 Stockgill Force 
 Stockley Bridge 
 Stonethwaite .. 
 Stoney Croft Bridge 
 Storrs Hall . . 
 Strands 
 
 Strickland Kettle 
 Striding Edge . . 
 Stybarrow 
 Stye Head . . 
 
 Tarn 
 
 Styx . . 
 
 Swan Inn, Grasmere 
 
 Swarth Fell .. 
 
 Swarthmoor Hall 
 
 Sweden Bridge 
 
 Swindale 
 
 Swinside 
 
 Swirrel Edge. . 
 
 Tarn Crag, Saddleback 
 
 Hows .. 
 
 Wadling. . 
 
 Tent Lodge . . 
 Thirlmere 
 Thirlwall Castle 
 Thornthwaite.. 
 
 44 
 94 
 70 
 140 
 63 
 126 
 132 
 93 
 68 
 13 
 101 
 29 
 23, 159 
 140 
 44 
 45 
 38 
 33, 161 
 70 
 68 
 93 
 . 23, 27 
 73 
 140 
 46 
 144, 147 
 70, 171 
 70 
 46 
 44 
 143 
 5 
 161 
 140 
 57 
 46 
 
 64, 
 
 Fell 
 
 Thrang Crag 
 Threlkeld 
 
 65 
 
 12 
 
 175 
 
 10 
 
 47 
 
 117 
 
 92 
 
 92 
 
 39 
 
 94, 174 
 
 iii<»ja>flM'Bi(Jtt'iaM»rf.feMi!>yji!Q5<iB^^ a<iiwaa«Mi'.iia'a 
 
190 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 r, 
 
 Thrimby 
 Tilberthwaite 
 
 Fells 
 
 Tippal . . 
 Tirrii. . 
 Torver. . 
 "Wood 
 
 Triermain Castle 
 Troutbeck 
 Bridge 
 
 Hundreds . 
 U 
 
 Ulles Water . . 
 Ulverstone 
 Underbarrow . . 
 
 Vicar's Island. . 
 Vicarage, Keswick 
 
 W 
 
 Wad Mine 
 Wall End 
 Wallow Crag . . 
 Walna Scar . . 
 Walney Island 
 Walton 
 
 House . 
 
 Wansfell 
 Wanthwaite Bridge 
 
 Crags 
 
 WarnelFell .. 
 
 Hall .. 
 
 Warton Crag . . 
 Warwick Bridge 
 
 Hall. . 
 
 Wast Water . . 
 Wastdale 
 Watch Gate . . 
 Watendlath .. 
 
 141 
 
 9, 12 
 
 9 
 
 117 
 
 142 
 
 15 
 
 27 
 
 118 
 
 24,31 
 
 32, 160 
 
 139 
 
 143 
 
 4, 156 
 
 22 
 
 54, 92 
 53 
 
 69 
 
 37 
 
 55, 58 
 
 12 
 
 11, 15 
 
 108 
 
 108 
 
 34 
 
 63, 92 
 
 50 
 
 97 
 
 97 
 
 155 
 
 124 
 
 123 
 
 72, 171 
 
 71, 171 
 
 160 
 
 ..61, 168 
 
 50 
 
 Waterfalls .. .. 179 
 Water End . . . . 56 
 
 Water Head, Coniston 9, 157 
 Windermere 25, 32 
 
 Watermillock . . 
 Old Church 
 
 Wedderlamb . . 
 
 Welton 
 
 Wetheral 
 
 ■ Priory 
 
 Safeguards 
 
 Whelpside 
 
 Whelter 
 
 W'hinlatter 
 
 Whitehaven . . 1, 78, 
 
 Whiteless 
 
 White Moss Slate Quarry 
 
 White Pike .. 
 
 Whiteside 
 
 White Water Dash . . 
 
 Wigton 
 
 WildboreFell.. 
 
 Windermere . . 
 
 Ferry 
 
 Workington 
 
 HaU 
 Wotobank 
 Wray .. 
 Wrynose 
 Wythbum Chapel 
 
 Head 
 
 Water 
 
 Wythop 
 
 Yanwath 
 Yewbarrow . . 
 
 Hall 
 
 Yew Crag Quarry 
 Yewdale 
 Fells . . 
 
 143 
 
 144 
 
 37 
 
 97 
 
 121 
 
 123 
 
 122 
 
 46 
 
 138 
 
 92 
 
 172 
 
 93 
 
 41 
 
 94 
 
 46 
 
 86 
 
 64 
 
 132 
 
 23,24 
 
 17 
 
 173 
 
 173 
 
 76 
 
 25 
 
 12, 24 
 
 45, 164 
 
 45 
 
 164 
 
 86 
 
 135 
 
 72, 159 
 
 140 
 
 88 
 
 II 
 
 9 
 
 CARLISLE: 
 
 Printed by Charles Thumam. 
 
I 
 
I 
 
 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 
 
 0032250070