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 THE 
 
 MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA, 
 
 FROM THE 
 
 LETTERS AND JOURNALS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Revs. J. B. THOMSON AND A. W. DODGSHUN, 
 
 AND 
 
 Messrs. E. C. HORE and W. HUTLEY. 
 
 WITH MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE USE OF THE DIRECTORS, 
 
 BY YATES & ALEXANDER, CHANCERY LANE. 
 
 MARCH, 1879. 
 
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 WITH ADDITIONS FROM LATER AUTHORITIES, 
 
 I BY JOSEPH MULLENS,D.D. F.R.G.S, 
 April_ 1879 . 
 
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 Geographical : 
 
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 Printed for the London Missionary Society. 
 
 Eds*? Weller. Red Lion Square. 
 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2018 with funding from 
 Columbia University Libraries 
 
 https://archive.org/details/missionincentralOOIond 
 

 M’oniimt 
 
 MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA, 
 
 FROM THE 
 
 LETTERS AND JOURNALS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Revs. J. B. THOMSON and A. W. DODGSHUN, 
 
 Messrs. E. C. HORE and W. HUTLEY, 
 
 WITH MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE USE OF THE DIRECTORS, 
 
 BY YATES & ALEXANDER, CHANCERY LANE. 
 
 MARCH, 1879. 
 
Junkit 'Missionary Society. 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 "f T is well known to the Society’s friends that the missionary party sent 
 X out two years ago to commence the mission on Lake Tanganyika 
 found themselves unable to complete their journey in a single season ; and 
 at the end of the first year settled down for a temporary rest among the 
 hills of Usagara, a hundred and sixty miles from the sea-coast. Their 
 resting-place was Ivikasa, a village on the south side of the River Wami, 
 •or Mukondokwa (as its upper waters are called) ; and here, on the slope of 
 m hill facing northwards and sheltered from the south-east winds, they 
 huilt a little settlement of five houses, stored the greater part of their 
 baggage and goods, and enjoyed a pleasant and refreshing rest in the pure 
 Tresh air. 
 
 They had reached this place by a route partly new and partly old. The 
 •road usually taken by travellers into the interior starts from Bagamoyo, 
 and, passing by Simbamwemi and Mbumi, enters the Usagara Hills and 
 makes for Mpwapwa from the south-east. During his preliminary 
 inquiry, Mr. Price found a drier and shorter route on the north of the 
 AVami. He started from Saadani, on the north-west of Zanzibar. The 
 new line included the hill and village of Ndumi; the villages of Magubika, 
 Kikwazo, and Kwedig-wami; crossed the Rukigura River, near Mbuzini; 
 and came upon a bend of the Wami River at the village of Ividudwe. At 
 •this point the traveller faces the Nguru Mountains; and Mr. Price dis¬ 
 covered a broad gap in them, out of which run several feeders of the 
 Wami, and found that the level plain between the bordering ranges was a 
 fertile country, full of population. He rested in the villages of Mkiropa 
 and Makundi; made his way up rough ascents at Mamboia and Kitangi; 
 .and finally reached Mpwapwa from the north side of these hills. It is 
 interesting to notice that, on his recent journey, Mr. Stanley had also 
 discovered the upper portion of this line of road. Crossing the Wami 
 River near Kagongo, he also entered the great gap in the Nguru 
 Mountains, and came upon Mpwapwa from the north-east. In their 
 
4 
 
 TIIE MISSION IN' CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 journey to Kirasa, our missionary brethren turned away from tliis gap and 
 kept along the river, tlius entering the old line of travel adopted by 
 their predecessors. On this road they passed Msoero, where they v r ere 
 most kindly received by its Makua people; made friends with the 
 villagers in Tarahami and Iviola, whom they supplied with medicine; and 
 finally reached Kirasa, where their winter quarters were erected. During 
 all their journey they moved in perfect safety among the people; they 
 found “ the Waseguha an interesting people,” “ more numerous than they 
 expected,” and “most friendly and favourable to the expedition.” 
 
 In planning their further advance at the commencement of last year, 
 they found that owing to the undoubted presence of the tsetse fly in the 
 districts which they were about to traverse, it would be useless to attempt 
 to carry their wagons onward; and arrangements were made for the con¬ 
 veyance of themselves and their stores by the usual bands of native porters, 
 called pagazi. Messrs. Thomson, Hore, and Hutley formed one party, 
 with two hundred and forty bearers ; and an agreement was entered into 
 with M. Broyon, a trader from Mirambo’s country, for the transport of the 
 remainder of the goods, some 13,0001bs. in weight. Mr. Dodgshun 
 accompanied him. At the outset of their new journey our brethren in the 
 first party were short-handed, and found great trouble in adjusting the 
 burden of the baggage and goods they were taking with them. The 
 arrival of additional bearers from Zanzibar solved their difficulties, and at 
 last, on Wednesday, June 12th, they started from the Church Missionary 
 Station at Mpwapwa with 240 men. Of the importance of this position, 
 two hundred miles from the coast, Mr. Price reported to the Directors in 
 1876 in the following terms :— 
 
 “ Mpwapwa is decidedly dry, high and dry, and therefore healthy ; and 
 this is saying a good deal of a place in Equatorial Africa. There is nothing 
 like a swamp, or anything that would generate malaria anywhere near, so 
 far as I could see or hear. In fact, I could not conceive the place to be 
 otherwise than healthy for Europeans. The district seems to be productive 
 enough of everything that can afford to wait for the rain, which, I am 
 told, never fails to come in the proper time. Native food is abundant. 
 
 “ There is a considerable population at Mpwapwa, but it is of a very mixed 
 and nondescript character. The most numerously represented people are, 
 
 I think, the Wasagara. Then come the Wakaguru. There are also 
 villages of the "Wagogo. The all-pervading Wanyamwezi are there too in 
 considerable numbers. There are also numbers of coast Arabs there, or 
 people who call themselves Arabs, but whose pedigree is probably as 
 uncertain as well can be. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 5 
 
 Like Shoshong, in South Africa, Mpwapwa is not just the place one 
 would choose to live at. But, like Shoshong, Mpwapwa is a kind of gate¬ 
 way to vast regions beyond. At Mpwapwa meet all the roads from the 
 •coast to the Lake regions, from Dara Salaam, from Bagamoyo, from Wliinde, 
 and from Saadani; and it forms a fresh starting-point for caravans after all 
 their trouble and hard labour in the maritime and mountainous regions. 
 Like Shoshong again, it is a most important position to occupy, both as a 
 mission and trading station. The population of Mpwapwa itself is suffi¬ 
 ciently lai-ge to justify the establishment of a mission there. Then there is 
 Tubugwe, with a considerable population. It, too, might be visited from 
 Mpwapwa. But the occupation of Mpwapwa is all-important in view of 
 the establishment of missions in the far interior, and should not be deferred. 
 As a trading station, the importance of Mpwapwa cannot be overrated.” 
 
 The Church Missionary Society had two missionaries at Mpwapwa when 
 ■our brethren passed. Mr. Ilore says of the place:—“ The Church 
 Missionary Society has three temporary houses here in a beautiful district. 
 Their collection of buildings looked much like a road-side inn, with farm¬ 
 stead and outhouses, in the Australian bush ; and it proved as welcome to 
 the weary traveller. Our tents were pitched opposite Mr. Copplestone’s 
 house.” In a rather severe illness from which Mr. Thomson suffered, he 
 was nursed with the kindest care by Dr. Baxter, and appeared rapidly tc 
 recover. 
 
 On commencing their new journey from Mpwapwa, they laid out their 
 march on the following plan. Mr. Hore says :— 
 
 “ We have now actually entered upon Central Africa. When a few men 
 who are behind come up, we shall have 240 men, all told, in our caravan, 
 and, as the large number of men who ran away from Kirasa and Mpwapwa 
 were mostly weaklings (either bodily, from disease, or mentally, from fear 
 •of the journey), I may say they are, if anything, on the best side of the 
 average Swahili porter. We carry with us fifty-three loads of Amerikani, 
 twenty-eight loads mixed cloths (Amerikani and the various coloured 
 cloths), nine loads of beads, two loads of wire, twenty-six loads of pro¬ 
 visions, medicines, &c., and the rest general stores, baggage tents, &c., &c. 
 I have allowed a margin, the result of former experience, of about thirteen 
 men without loads (they, however, carry their comrades’ clothes, food, &c.), 
 to allow for sickness and runaways. As nearly three loads of Amerikani 
 will be consumed weekly for food, if all goes well, our caravan will rapidly 
 get into light travelling trim. 
 
 “I have taken some pains to arrange this caravan decently. We have 
 ^altogether five head men: Juma Nasibu, 1; Abdulla Songoro, 2 ; Juma 
 
€ 
 
 TILE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 Mackay (!), 3 ; Faragalla, 4 ; Moosa, 5. No. 1 is tlie head man of all, ancl 
 gets all his orders direct from myself (this man was with Cameron, and 
 joined us first on our arrival at Zanzibar). Nos. 2 and 3 take equal rank 
 as leaders, each over half the men, and carry the flag on alternate days, or 
 as they may arrange between them. They are responsible for the stowage' 
 of the goods in camp, and for the general care of the men, having under 
 them respectively 7 , as assistants, Nos. 4 and 5. Moosa, in addition, has 
 charge of the erection of the tents, and has to bring the pagazi with the 
 travelling baggage to the tents, &c., while Faragalla, as a parallel duty 7 ,, 
 works immediately under me as packer and general man for the opening 
 or packing of loads, See. Mr. Thomson is to manage all the hongo pay¬ 
 ments, or any other business with chiefs, &c., and the never-ending medical 
 duties. To myself has been apportioned the charge of the caravan 
 generally 7 , the care of the men both as to their food and work, and all 
 arrangements of transport. Mr. Hutley has charge of our own com¬ 
 missariat, and assists in anything which otherwise might require my 
 presence in two places at once. I feel very glad that Mr. Dodgshun will be 
 •with the large part of our stores that we have left with Broyon. The- 
 present start looks more like getting to the Lake than any we have yet 
 made. 
 
 “ Wednesday, June 12 tli .—Under weigh shortly after daydight, taking all 
 the loads estimated, and still having, apart from the head men and servants 
 and two men carrying Mr. Thomson, ten men not carrying our goods; they 
 were, of course, however, loaded with mats and bundles, &c., belonging to- 
 their comrades. Descended Mr. Last’s road to the river, now a shallow 
 stream flowing here over the sand, but under which it soon after dis¬ 
 appears ; passed along the terrace formed by the first rise of the plain towards 
 its mountain border, making thus a semi-circular course towards the- 
 Chtjnyo Pass, which we could see plainly 7 from the C. M. S. station;, 
 passed several tembes and over many small water-courses with red soil,, 
 some forming deep but narrow chasms six to eighteen feet deep; to our 
 left, the enclosed Mpwapwa plain ; close on cur right its mountain border 
 to the south the lofty Itubeho stretches as far as the eye can reach. From 
 the mountains on our right descend many steep and rugged water-courses, 
 which, in the verdant season, must form romantic-looking cascades and 
 falls arched over in places completely by entangled and luxuriant 
 grow'th. At the tembe of Kisokwe we halt a short time, and then push on 
 for the pass, which is plainly visible to west of us ; cross two more sandy 
 nullahs and numerous rocky torrent-beds coming down the mountain sides, 
 and so on into the pass, leaving on our left two hills which, from Mpwapwa?,, 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 4 
 
 appear as part of the range, and which now, as we wind into the pass, 
 shut out our view of the Mpwapwa plain. As we enter the pass we step 
 over numerous upright edges of sandstone strata standing perpendicular 
 and cropping out on all sides of us, weathered into the wildest forms. This 
 sandstone is still full of mica and thin quartz veins, loose quartz on surface 
 also containing mica. The pass is but little above the Mpwapwa plain, 
 being almost level with the C. M. S. station. The camping-place at 
 Chunyo is just in the western discharge of the pass, on a little level patch 
 about 300 feet above the plain of the Marenga Mkali, upon Avhich the 
 pass opens. To the north and south rise the mountains, steep and pointed, and 
 on the northern side there is close at hand a high, bluff, semi-detached 
 hill which is conspicuous. Away to the west there is yet but a limited 
 view of the Marenga Mkali, much of the view (until we entirely emerge 
 from the pass) being shut out by scattered hills which, in the distance, 
 appear as a smaller range running north and south. These hills, usually 
 of long gradual slopes, but withal generally detached, form an ordinary 
 feature (with the flat plain with which they are surrounded) from here 
 right through Ugogo. In the Marenga Mkali these plains are covered 
 with a thick scrub of stunted trees and dreadful thorns—now looking fierce 
 and dread in their wintry garb. The Chunyo River, descending as a torrent 
 through the mountain gorges on the southern side of the pass, crosses the 
 pass and emerges upon the plain along the northern portal. The much- 
 dreaded waters of this river, now found in isolated pools in its otherwise 
 dry, sandy bed, are indeed nauseous, and only endurable, as tea or coffee, 
 taken medicine-wise ; our pagazi, however, seemed to put but little 
 restraint upon their use of it. An Arab caravan of 300 men shortly after 
 arrived, and the Arabs wished to join caravans with us for strength through 
 Ugogo. Tried without success after some koodoo [deer] on the southern 
 hill. 
 
 “ Friday , June 14 th .—Got under weigh this morning and commenced the 
 passage of the dreaded Marenga Mkali. The road descended from the pass 
 close round the southern portal of the pass, and on through rough scrub 
 and thorn bush, with few bare open patches, for eight miles, when a halt 
 was called. This morning I have suffered from the effects of the Chunyo 
 water. The journey tired Mr. Thomson very much, and he was carried for 
 the remainder of the day—very glad of the short rest at the halting-place. 
 Had the poorest ox killed for the benefit of the pagazi. After about two 
 hours started again and made another eight miles to camp ; same country. 
 
 “ Saturday, 15 th .—Made about the same distance as yesterday, arriving at 
 camping-place at Ndebwe about noon ; the same scrub and thorn continues 
 
8 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 to within a couple of miles of Ndebwe, -when it suddenly ends, and the 
 open country is seen for a wide space. A few scattered hills bound the 
 view, and Ndebwe is entered through long and wide-spreading gardens of 
 matama and meweri. 
 
 “ Ndebwe is a scattered collection of forty-one tembes on a flat, and now 
 almost bare, plain of rough burnt grass stubble, dotted with baobab-trees, 
 under one of which our camping-place is situate. Very tired, men all 
 knocked up from their long forced marches, so it was some time before the 
 tents were pitched and all made snug. Found that a load of mixed cloth 
 had been opened and a piece of Amerikani gone; Juma found out the 
 carrier, who, after a few smart blows from that party’s stick, expressed 
 himself willing to show where he had put the cloth. Faragalla returned 
 with him and the cloth in about tw r o hours ; the lad alleged that he had 
 only taken it out of the load, to relieve himself of the weight. Here was 
 brought to us for sale, fat, ground-nuts, beans, and pumpkins. 
 
 “ Sunday .—Enjoy a quiet rest, the Wagogo not troubling us with 
 their impertinence half so much as we had been led to expect. 
 
 “ Monday , Yltli .—Eight miles to Mvumi over several nullahs and two dry 
 rivers of good size ; same country. We are now fairly in Ugogo, and, alas! 
 within the clutches of the hongo-squeezing Wagogo. The large plain—not 
 unlike a dirty bare common in England—is horrible with the filth and 
 refuse and ashes of many caravans, the little huts of branches, reeds, 
 and grass having done duty for many travellers, each new caravan 
 enlarging or shifting the little huts, either sometimes bodily, or sometimes 
 piecemeal, to suit their convenience and the size of the boma they may 
 require. We made our camp close to that of a Wanyamwezi caravan 
 bound coast-wise. The day after we arrived they announced by beat of 
 drum that their hongo" (which had consisted of eight days’ work of 
 carrying firewood, &c.) was completed. 
 
 “ In reply to our advances we received a message from the chief that as 
 yet we had scarcely arrived in his country, and he could not think of 
 commencing business till to-morrow. Our camp became, as at Ndebwe, 
 just like a bazaar or fair, "with a touch of the Zoological Gardens—the 
 people gathering round the tents just exactly as people in England look at 
 the animals there, their observations, of course, covering all our belong¬ 
 ings as well as ourselves, the remarks passed upon us being very similar. 
 One instance as an illustration :—Some young men were gazing intently into 
 my tent, when one laid hold of his friend, very earnestly saying, “ Oh, come 
 over to the other tent; there’s one there with a big beard ! ” Old men and 
 women, young men and maidens, are all the same. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 9 
 
 “ Thursday, 20th .—Under weigh in the morning, very glad to he away 
 from this tiresome place, and arrived at Matamburu after a march of eight 
 miles. Still the same flat plain between hills, which, though there are 
 often many of them, and at a distance look something like a chain, are still 
 isolated hills with a distinct plain between. From Mvumi to Matamburu 
 there are many tembes and gardens, and scattered scrubby bushes are 
 dotted over the plain. In addition to the numerous small nullahs, we passed 
 ■over two good-sized river beds. As our camp was being formed, the old 
 chief himself appeared with a troop of noisy warriors, and commenced an 
 altercation with several of our pagazi about their having removed some 
 huts from another camping-ground, resulting, our men afterwards told us, 
 in their having to pay a penalty of Amerikani. I went up to the old chief 
 at once and saluted him with ‘ jambo,’ which he heartily returned and 
 shook hands. I then said to him that he should leave such small matters 
 to some of his men, and come and sit a while in the tent of the Masungu, 
 thinking it a good opportunity of getting an early commencement of the 
 hongo business. He accordingly came into the camp, and I introduced him 
 to Mr. Thomson, but no business was done to-day. The chief is a jolly old 
 fellow, if such a character can be reconciled with demands for hongo. 
 
 “ Saturday , 22nd .—After great business we settled the hongo to-day, but 
 to do so I had to hand over to the Wagogo my double-barrelled gun, and 
 then, instead of the 150 cloths they demanded at first (for ourselves and the 
 caravan of Wanyamwezi who travelled with us, and who desired us to 
 make one business of our hongo and theirs), they now were satisfied with 
 ninety for the two caravans, the total hongo for the two caravans thus 
 amounting to forty-two rings brass wire, one dressing gown, about Gibs, 
 beads (white and pink), and sixty cloths paid by ourselves and thirty-five 
 of a very inferior kind by the Wanyamwezi. The hongo being finished, 
 the next business was to settle matters with the Wanyamwezi, and this 
 proved as big a job as the hongo itself, for they were very unwilling to 
 part even with a single cloth, while, to settle matters, we wanted from, 
 them thirty-six. 
 
 “ Tuesday , 25 th .—A short march of four miles this morning brought us to 
 Iaididimo. Mr. Thomson had an interview with the chief. Large corn¬ 
 fields abound all over the country, while butter, milk, eggs, matama meal, 
 ground-nuts, beans, and honey are brought to the camp for sale. Many 
 bee-hives are deposited in the trees. They consist of split trunks of trees, 
 Followed out, the ends being left and the two parts finally lashed together. 
 
 “ W r e managed to get the hongo settled to-day for twelve doti of cloths, 
 six being of those received from the Wanyamwezi. 
 
10 
 
 TIIE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “ Wednesday, 2Q>tdi .—After leaving Kididimo we seem to enter a new 
 country, more resembling the best aspects of the coast region. Here is a 
 fine grass, and for the first five miles we pass through jungle not so scrubby 
 and thorny as hitherto in Ugogo. We pass many tracks of large game, which 
 is said to be very plentiful. We halted on the same spot where Stanley 
 stopped on his first journey. After a good long rise we suddenly descend 
 into a sort of bog, where the water is retained in a kind of basin ; just 
 below is the river bed of which Stanley speaks, and very fine grass and. 
 soft verdure is abundant. Here we stopped till noon, having rest and 
 refreshment. 
 
 “After leaving this halting-place at noon we rise a little into a really 
 beautiful forest, through which the road leads us the whole day. Good 
 soft grass abounds, and though the winter is far advanced there is still 
 enough green to make the scene pleasant. Here are large forest trees again,, 
 such as we have not seen since leaving Mpwapwa, and such a fine collection 
 of straight trees, so suitable for building and other purposes, we have not 
 seen in the country before ; many acacias also ; and the ebony and other 
 trees remind one of the pleasantest parts of the coast region. Nearly all 
 through this forest a sandy soil is revealed by the path, though animal and. 
 vegetable deposit has rendered the place competent to the production of 
 the most luxuriant vegetation—the large baobabs are still here—altogether 
 a very fine forest, on either border of which, or indeed in a clearing of the- 
 forest itself, could, I think, be found some most desirable places for a 
 settlement. In the middle of the forest, water is obtained very near the 
 surface in little holes, and I should say that a constant supply could easily 
 be obtained for a settlement by the construction of wells. A journey of 
 good twelve miles to-day and we camp in the forest; there is still thorny 
 wood enough for a boma to be quickly constructed, and we are glad of rest 
 and refreshment after being under weigh all day. 
 
 “ Thursday, June 27th .—A march of three more hours brings us with a 
 slight descent on to a similar plain to that of Eastern Ugogo—an open and 
 level plain dotted •with baobabs and scanty bushes, and covered with white- 
 saline deposits. Palm-trees are now seen in the far distance, and numerous 
 tembes, with for-stretching and straggling corn-fields, testify to a con¬ 
 siderable population. 
 
 “ As we approach the large tembe of Pembera Perah, the chief of 
 Nyambwa, we pass by a fine large tamarind-tree, the first I have seen in 
 this region, and a few castor-oil plants are also encouraged in the close 
 neighbourhood of the tembes. 
 
 “ The hongo business was commenced as soon as possible, but as the chief 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 11 
 
 was in a state of drunkenness it proved a most humiliating business ; it was 
 finally settled, however, to-day after the payment of one coil of copper wire 
 and thirty-nine cloths.” 
 
 “ Friday , 28 th .—We got away as quickly and quietly as possible this 
 morning, fearing all the time lest we should he again stopped by the drunken 
 chief, hut we got away all right. The corn-fields of the Nyambwa folks 
 lined our road for the first mile, after which the broad open plain extended 
 as far as the eye could reach on either side. Scattered tembes and corn-fields 
 the whole route and palm-trees now took the place, to a great extent, of 
 the baobabs; a few scattered bushes broke the monotony of the salt-encrusted 
 plain. To the westward now appeared a ridge looking like a blank wall 
 right before us ; a steep termination to the northward about three points 
 north of our path merged off into the haze ; southward, the ridge extended 
 as far as I could see. Not a vestige of this sudden ascent (for it is really 
 one immense steep step of 800 feet on to the plateau beyond) which has 
 such a striking appearance, rising abruptly off this level plain. Half-way^ 
 on our road we pass between two little sharp hog-backs of granite extend¬ 
 ing in a line about north-west and south-east, with a quarter of a mile 
 between them ; and now as we draw near Mizanza, the palms appear in 
 great numbers. 
 
 “ Stanley has truly described Mizanza as being situate in a grove of 
 palm-trees. Numerous and large tembes and corn-fields, herds of cattle and 
 a small troop of donkeys, add to the lively scene. This place presents its 
 romantic appearance only spoilt by the refuse and filth of the camps of 
 many caravans. We camp amidst the palms, and are politely told that no 
 liongo can be treated for to-day, for the people must have a chance to barter 
 with our pagazi and get their cloth. On approaching Mizanza the ridge to 
 our westward reminded me forcibly of the cliffs of England being approached 
 from seaward. I could very well imagine the Shakespeare Cliff, and the 
 termination or rather point to northward answered admirably to the South 
 Eoreland. As no hongo was to be done to-day I started off for the hills 
 Avith Faragalla and another man, passing many tembes and large corn-fields, 
 these latter extending close up to the foot of the hills, which rise abruptly 
 off the leA’el plain. We commenced the ascent where a spur enables the 
 traveller to make it gradually and arrive at the top, 800 feet aboA’e the 
 plain. Immediately beneath us and farther north the hill-side is almost wall¬ 
 like. A pathway made by the natives in traversing the hills in search of 
 building-Avood leads right along the ridge forest clothed ; the baobab, ebony, 
 numerous acacias, and other trees thickly clothe the hills; a good soft 
 grass covers the ground, and partridges, guinea foAvls, and doves abound- 
 
12 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 To the west the plateau extends at first somewhat brokenly ; this ridge, or 
 edge of the plateau, lies nearly true north and south. A view of the level 
 plain of Ugogo was limited by a border of haze which prevented a distant 
 view, and we returned to camp at dusk. 
 
 “ Saturday, 29 th. —In the early part of the day I was busily employed 
 repairing some of our loads and preparing cloth for our men’s posho— 
 •a job of some extent, some 230 two-yard pieces of calico having to be 
 measured and cut off. The serving out, however, takes up the most time; 
 but it is now greatly facilitated by the use of the tin tallies with which 
 we have supplied the men—every man, as his name is called, showing 
 his number. This matter settled, I had to hand out the hongo in 
 instalments. 
 
 “ Sunday. —Enjoyed a good day’s rest. We met together in my tent in 
 the evening for prayer and worship. 
 
 “Monday , July l,st.—Under weigh early, our road leading towards the 
 northern point of the ridge before us; from here the elevation or mountain- 
 wall trends north-westerly, with which our path is nearly parallel all the way 
 to the tembes of Lugossy; the whole of this road is a dead level salt 
 plain. On emerging from the grove of palms in which Mizanza is situate 
 (which palms extend in a sort of belt, north and south), we come upon a 
 bare plain, or rather marsh, its monotony varied, as viewed in the distance, 
 with streaks of dirty white and bright green—the dirty white being a salt 
 deposit, and the green a short marsh grass. For twelve points there is a 
 clear horizon to northward, devoid of tree or bush. Here, about half a 
 mile off, I saw two large ostriches (a fine ground for them) ; there are also 
 many tracks of all kinds of game on the crisp, frost-like saline deposit. 
 
 “ Lugossy consists of about sixteen tembes under the Chief Mgono 
 Kamongah, a tall, slender person, of considerable importance in his own 
 eyes ; a few scattered palms in the immediate neighbourhood of the tembes 
 relieve the otherwise monotonous scene, for there is naught else from 
 north-west to north-east save the same bare plain ; the people’s gardens 
 are close up against the foot of the hills. The Wagogo and Waliumba 
 rseem to live together here in amity. The Waliumba are certainly a 
 • distinct race, having their own particular features and manners. Here, as 
 all through Ugogo, plenty of food was brought into the camp. The chief 
 visited us this evening, bringing his battered and broken powder flask—he 
 begged a new one—and his Prime Minister, a cunning old Myamwezi, 
 carried two pistols for repair, but I could do nothing to them, for they both 
 wanted new nipples. He sent us some milk this evening.” 
 
 “ Wednesday , July 3rd. —The step on to the plateau, along which our road 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 13- 
 
 passes, becomes now less and less steep, nntil farther west, when we make 
 the ascent beyond Mukondoku. There is a far more gradual (though still 
 steep) slope out on to the plain, forming a border of forest and tangled 
 vegetation between the plain and the hills. The people here are a thorough 
 mix up of Wanyamwezi, Wahumba, and an inferior class of Wagogo. 
 The Wagogo hereabouts smear their bodies with white clay in various 
 hideous devices—a favourite one being whitened shins and thighs, with 
 parallel wavy lines so stretched as to show the dark skin—also white 
 dabs or beauty spots on cheeks and temples. Could do nothing towards 
 settling the hongo to-day. Here, for the first time, the people, apparently 
 immensely astonished, ran by the side of the caravan as Cameron describes^ 
 Messrs. Thomson and Hutley, being in front some distance, had passed by 
 before attention had been thoroughly aroused, but by the time I passed the 
 first tembes they came running to see the Masungu (Englishmen), and I 
 was closely followed by a curious and increasing crowd. 
 
 “ Friday, July 5th .—Started at daybreak in the morning; very cold; 
 marched about one mile and a half, and halted on outskirts of Mukondoku. 
 Here, though no hongo, they made us pay a few beads for the use of the 
 water. Had a crowd of gazers here the whole time till we started off 
 again in the afternoon. Went on about ten more miles, the last mile being 
 the commencement of the ascent; entered a forest which here forms a 
 border between the hills and the big plain. There is a very thick under¬ 
 growth in places. Camped in pleasant forest ground on ridge. 
 
 “ Saturday, July 6 th .—-Up at daybreak and got to Simbo, three-quarters 
 of a mile, and halted till afternoon ; crossed a rocky mountain torrent bed, 
 and, a little higher up, Simbo-water in a number of little granite basins, 
 where, in the wet season, must be a fine cascade. 
 
 “ Sunday, 7th .—Off again at daybreak (men without food), arriving at Koi 
 Ivirondah about eleven. Camped about half a mile beyond the town. 
 Until tw r o miles from the village the same fine forest land, which then 
 opened upon large clearings on a gently undulating country covered with 
 large corn-fields, and giving a well-to-do aspect to a large tembe of 
 Wakimbu, many of whom we found industriously employed cutting the 
 large posts of which their tembes are made; others were fashioning boxes, 
 or rather bins, of bark—like huge bandboxes—forming most excellent 
 receptacles for grain, &c.; they are stored on the .roof tops ; the maize- 
 pods in bundles are elevated on poles in the same position. They also have 
 a sort of rack, about four feet off the ground, but depressed in the middle,, 
 on which the matama is exposed and dried. These people, being almost 
 devoid of ornament, although clothed more decently than the Wagogo, 
 
14 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 appear to tlie traveller (fresh from Ugogo) as being almost in undress. 
 The forest here supplies splendid, wood for building purposes, and also all 
 the useful barks, such as those used for lashings and for boxes, &c., kc. 
 
 “ After crossing another wide undulation of spreading corn-fields, we 
 arrived at the main tembe of Ivoi Kirondah. This is the largest and best- 
 built tembe I have yet seen in the country; here is a little colony of 
 Swahili, or Mrima men, and I must say that, unless they are engaged in 
 slaving (and we saw no signs of it), they must be an immense civilizing 
 influence upon the more savage races of the locality. Under the influence 
 of these coast men, this tembe presents the appearance of quite a respect¬ 
 able and good-sized town. All the houses, or rather compartments, are 
 half as high again as those solely of native architecture, while there is a 
 great deal of respectable workmanship bestowed upon the building ; com¬ 
 fortable doors and verandahs, plastered walls, and many other little 
 additions to household comfort and cheerful appearance. There are also 
 several clusters of houses. In the centre space one large house is built 
 with huge wooden posts and an extensive verandah. It is the residence of 
 some of the well-to-do traders—some resident, some guests—and here we 
 squat on little stools or sit on the clean mats and talk with these people, 
 who, on the whole, seem a very respectable lot of men. 
 
 “ In the town generally, the native element seems comparatively small, and 
 nearly all either working for, or in some Avay connected with, the coast men. 
 Our pagazi were quite at home here, and in their best garments paraded 
 about the town as if they were in Zanzibar; many had friends to greet, 
 and all had bargains to make, for here is great plenty of beans and maize 
 and matama, pumpkins and sweet potatoes, to say naught of the pombe and 
 tobacco, in which they revelled during our stay. One enterprising towns¬ 
 man killed an ox, which was cut up in its skin in the public square, and, 
 being disposed in quantities suitable for small purchasers, the meat was 
 transformed very quickly into good Amerikani. I noticed the sem-sem seeds 
 collected here in quantities for the manufacture of oil. Plenty of oxen, but 
 few sheep, goats, and chickens. Some of the coast men in the town politely 
 sent to our camp, each of the two mornings we were here, a liberal supply 
 of good, sweet milk, which proved very acceptable to us. About fifteen 
 of the late Lieutenant Smith’s men were here on their way to the coast, 
 and from them we had news of Mr. Mackay’s progress. Here we obtained 
 some Indian meal to make porridge, enabling us to enjoy that good morning 
 refreshment without using the objectionable matama meal. 
 
 “ Monday , July 8th .—Remained all day at Ivoi Kirondah to let men rest 
 and buy food for the journey of a whole week before us without inhabitants. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 15 
 
 “ Saturday , July 13 th .—Trouble again at starting, the men hanging round 
 the fires till driven away. After considering this matter a good deal, I 
 have determined to commence to enforce fines to-morrow for those who do 
 not come out of their huts to take up the loads. Same alternate jungle and 
 ojien forest with tracks of large game. We made an hour’s walk in the 
 morning and halted at a pool of fine clear water, beautifully cool, a small 
 ■quiet pool in a nook in the forest, and having white and yellow lilies. 
 
 “ July 1 &th .—The fine system promises to answer well. This morning 
 we got away unusually early, and I did not even have to sound the time 
 signal, every one of the loads being picked up at the start. Road generally 
 through the same scattered forest, but more varied now, with open glades 
 .and broken ground. Fresh breeze during the day with flying clouds; 
 night, fine and clear. Camped in the fine open forest. These forest 
 camps (when good water is at hand) are the best we have : the old camps 
 nnd bomas near villages are abominations. During the afternoon, while I 
 was quietly seated in the tent repairing our flags, a cry was raised that 
 one of the men had been carried off by a lion. I rushed out with my gun 
 and with about 150 men armed with guns, spears, and clubs went off in 
 pursuit; of course, such a wild army cleared the lion away very quickly, 
 and he abandoned his prey, which turned out to be a zebra. The party I 
 was with traced the lion a good way, but he was off far out of reach. 
 Meantime, a party of our Wanyamwezi friends found the zebra, and by 
 the time I arrived he was being jointed ; in another few minutes all 
 was shared out. Our Zanzibar men, of course, could not partake of this 
 meat, but I see they do not refuse some of the spoils, his mane and tail 
 and pieces of his skin being secured as dandy decorations for some of the 
 swells. 
 
 “ Friday .—Seven miles march, arrived at Hitukah. Eight or nine 
 flourishing villages with extensive corn-fields and gardens, the latter laid 
 out in high ridges for tobacco, beans, mhogo, &c. Camped in a corn¬ 
 field ; friendly chief ; food brought for sale. 
 
 “ Saturday , 20 th .—A march of six miles brought us to Kwikuru, the 
 capital of Uyui, a very large village, or rather town, with many evergreen- 
 trees inside, the milk-bush hedges round the village giving it a very 
 pleasing appearance. We camped about a quarter of a mile beyond the 
 town, although, as we passed, Said bin Sxlim sent out to invite us inside. 
 Shortly after pitching camp, Mr. Thomson and myself went to visit the 
 sheikh, meeting on the way messengers from him bearing a tray of rice and 
 curry, and a bowl of milk. Said bin Salim, the late governor of Unyanyembe, 
 we found to be a very respectable-looking old gentleman ; and, although 
 
 / 
 
16 
 
 TIIE MISSION IK CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 not living in the style to which he had been used in his more comfortable 
 circumstances, he still has the air and manner of a well-to-do Arab. There 
 are several other Arabs and half-castes, and a goodly number of Zanzibar 
 men and other followers, who are all respectful to, and seem to revolve 
 round, the Said as their patron. Said bin Salim received us most amicably r 
 and we conversed about the road, &c., and also about his deposition from 
 the government of Unyanyembe, he complaining that he had had all his- 
 things taken from him, while Mr. Thomson explained to him that he had 
 come to look at the country, kc. Shortly afterwards, I was obliged to- 
 leave in order to serve out our men’s posho, and Mr. Thomson then pre¬ 
 sented his letters of introduction. 
 
 “ Wednesday, 24 th ,.—Started after the usual trouble and drive; one mile 
 north-west by west brings to the North Gombe Nullah : the water stand¬ 
 ing in pools. The drift grass and wood high up in the trees show what an 
 immense body of water must sweep past here in the rainy season. The 
 actual nullah seems but a little trough in the bottom of the great water¬ 
 course into which the waters subside as they pass away ; where the w r ater 
 has been is also well indicated by the luxuriance and fresh green tints of 
 the herbage. Crossing the nullah we now enter the district of Ulikampori. 
 Just before coming to Kwiktjru (the capital) the forest opens on to a 
 plain dotted with hills, and reveals a populous and flourishing country in 
 the numerous well-to-do looking villages and surrounding corn-fields; much 
 of this plain, however, is still boggy. Eight miles from camp brings us to- 
 the stockaded village of Kwiktjru in Ulikampori. Inside the stockade 
 this village is abundantly shaded with crowded plantain-trees and milk- 
 bush ; gardens with tobacco, beans, kc., outside. Speke’s ‘ Ulikampori r 
 must be south of this. The natives say there are other towns of Ulikam¬ 
 pori to the south. This Kwikuru, as also our to-day’s camp due west of it,, 
 is in lat. 4° 40' south. Here we halted a short time to bring up the 
 stragglers, and started across the plain in a winding path for our camp in 
 Unyambewa. Threading our way through corn-fields we closely skirt 
 three villages, all stockaded and thickly shaded and hidden with plantains 
 and milk-bush. The houses inside are, some oblong with flat roofs (like 
 pieces of tembes), others round with neatly thatched conical roofs. The 
 people come out to stare ; some are delving in their gardens, and others 
 are already bringing food to sell in our camp. Outside two of the villages 
 w r ere little blacksmiths’ shops. I went to one to see the operations. They 
 showed me a coil of iron wire which had just been drawn; and except 
 that the iron was of inferior quality the work was very good. The wire is 
 drawn through little blocks of iron with holes of the sizes required, which 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AERICA. 
 
 17 
 
 blocks are inserted firmly in a post. At some distance is a rude but 
 effective windlass; a stout bark rope is secured to the end of the wire to 
 be drawn, and being taken round the windlass is thus drawn. The forge 
 was not here, and I only saw a few rough tools—hammer, tweezers, and 
 chisel. The people seemed quite pleased for me to examine their things. 
 
 “ Thursday, 25th .—Hazy and cold morning. We proceeded a full hour 
 after sunrise. One mile and a quarter brought us to the large mud 
 plastered tembe of Kavikuru of Unyambewa. Before us was a rolling 
 country with thick and varied vegetation, but fewer trees. Through corn¬ 
 fields, long grass, and between several hills, about north-west. Eleven more 
 miles bring us to camp in thick grass and scrub. A short distance from 
 Kanoeo, between the hills, we had to wade through several bogs of black 
 mud, which is disagreeable after our long journey on dry hard ground. 
 Passed the ruins of two villages, which we were told had been capsized 
 during some of Mirambo’s battles. One had been an extensive place ; the 
 vegetation around was very thick, and the ruins of the village itself were 
 completely buried in a dense mass of vegetation, amongst which were 
 plantains, corn, beans, milk-bush, potatoes, and creepers matting the •whole 
 together. Many of the various uganga, with which all the Wanyamwezi 
 villages are supplied, still remain on the ends of some of the long stockade 
 poles wdiich rise up above the debris—old pots, calabashes, horns and 
 skulls of game, &c. Many of our men stopped here and ransacked the 
 wild gardens with some success, many obtaining potatoes and tomatoes. 
 
 “ Saturday, 2ltli .—All lively and cheerful for the start to Mirambo’s 
 town. Descending gradually through grass and scattered bushes, and past 
 a fine spring pouring out upon the road, we come to the North Gombe 
 Nullah. Here are evidences of this river being in the rains an immense 
 body of water, which just here must cover at times a large tract of country. 
 There remains here about half of a long bridge said to have been built by 
 Mirambo. It consisted originally of two rows of about 150 forked poles, 
 which are four to six feet apart; there are beams across, covered with 
 other poles longitudinally, forming the road. From here we ascend 
 gradually about two miles to a large stockaded village. When I passed, 
 the people were all out to greet us. I was followed for a quarter of a mile 
 by about 150 women, of all sizes and ages, making the most terrible din, 
 screeching, yelling, and singing at me, and dancing and running and 
 flinging themselves about in a strange style. I was completely mobbed, 
 and was told it was no impertinence, but genuine rejoicing at the arrival of 
 the Wasungu: they followed me till they were tired out. 
 
 “ And now, with slow and stately step, we march towards the great man’s 
 
 B 
 
18 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 tembe. Our new Union Jack creeps along in tbe front, for it would not be 
 dignified for tbe caravan to hurry now, in the opinion of our head men. 
 As we approach guns are fired, and warriors and people run and prance 
 about like mad folks. Inside the tembe we find a square house—in course 
 of erection—set apart for our accommodation, and the great Mirambo 
 welcomes us to his Kwikuru. So is completed the second stage of the 
 journey of the London Missionary Society’s Tanganyika Expedition. To 
 God we would give the glory and praise for our safety and many mercies.” 
 
 Summary of Observations. 
 
 “ From Mpwapwa to Mirambo’s I have secured a good number of reliable 
 latitudes, each one being dependent upon altitudes both north and south 
 (sometimes every other day). I have got sets of lunars at Mpwapwa, at 
 Ivwikuru of Uyui, of the position of which from Unyanyembe I obtained 
 as reliable information as I could. With Captain Speke’s latitude of 
 Unyanyembe, mine of Uyui, and the independent witness of several 
 natives as to the direction, I make Unyanyembe to bear from Kwikuru of 
 Uyui, the residence of Said bin Salim, S. 5° W. (true) at a distance of 
 sixteen miles (geographical). I also have material for a good section by 
 observations with boiling point thermometer at every important change of 
 altitude, tbe intervals being filled up by aneroid. The boiling point 
 thermometers give most excellent result, and the aneroid I am using 
 (Mr. Dodgshun’s) keeps with them most satisfactorily. The error of 
 compass (one cannot safely call it ‘ variation ’ in such an iron country as 
 this) has increased more slowly than I expected. It will, doubtless, 
 change with greater rapidity now that our northing is done. 
 
 “ Captain Speke gives the latitude of a place called Ulikampori as 4° 46' 
 27". We found Ulikampori to be a district, and Kwikuru (the capital) of 
 Ulikampori is in 4° 40'. On inquiry on the spot, I was told there were 
 several more towns of Ulikampori south of this ; one of these is perhaps 
 Captain Speke’s Ulikampori. Or, as likely as not, there is now no town at all 
 there; for a year or two here is sufficient to change the whole face of a 
 district as regards the position of its villages, which are anything but 
 permanent. I just mention this to show how easy it is for a startling 
 difference of position to be made by two travellers, if these things are not 
 taken into consideration. Until I can prove satisfactorily any error, I shall 
 certainly believe in Captain Speke’s latitudes. His modestly bare map I 
 regard as a superior article, and his fellow-traveller’s book is the best we 
 have. 
 
 “ The country from Kirasa to this place, Kwikuru of Urambo (i.e., the 
 
TIIE MISSION IN CENTRAL AERICA. 
 
 19 
 
 capital or chief town of Mirambo’s country), may be divided for facility of 
 description into four parts, or stages. From Ivirasa in lat. 6° 42' 30", 
 elevation 2,700 feet, to Mpwapwa, lat. 6° 22', 3,200 feet, we are still in 
 the coast or maritime region. Leaving the Mukondoku to our south, we 
 gradually rise to Mpwapwa, along an enclosed plain; it can scarcely he 
 called a valley. To the north, the lofty boundary of the Usagara Hills 
 extends to Mpwapwa ; south, the Rub eh o forms a similar boundary ; but 
 between us and them are many isolated hills, of which Gombo Hill is one. 
 As Mpwapwa is approached, the mountains of that range bound the view. 
 Westward, forming the distinct boundary-line of the maritime region, the 
 waters of Simbo and of the Mpwapwa stream are, in my opinion, mere 
 tricklings left by an immense and irregular flow of water during the rains, 
 which I suspect will alter the whole face of the country, will open the 
 eyes of our Church Missionary Society friends, and reconcile the con¬ 
 flicting accounts we have got about the Gombo Lake. 
 
 “ The Chunyo Pass is the back-door of the maritime region ; a slight 
 descent brings us to the plain of the Marenga Mkali—a plain which may 
 be said to extend right through Ugogo, unless the break of elevated forest 
 ridge between Ivididimo and Nyambwa may be said to divide it into two 
 portions. Assuming this, the first portion, consisting of the Marenga 
 Mkali and Eastern Ugogo, exhibits a similar character throughout—a very 
 gently undulating plain, with harsh, thorn, scrubby vegetation and small 
 trees—its monotony broken by small irregular and rugged granite hills ; 
 a slightly elevated ridge, with a really beautiful forest, divides the first 
 from the second portion of the second stage. Slightly descending from 
 the forest ridge we enter this second portion, a flat plain, crusted with a 
 salt deposit, the view bounded by a far horizon broken by the tall palm- 
 trees which here form a new feature. South, the country is slightly more 
 irregular. North, the level plain is a vast marsh, and, as far as we can 
 see, unbounded by hill or rise. It was only on arriving at Mugondoku 
 that the weather became sufficiently clear to enable us to place bounds to 
 this vast level; we then saw that the dividing forest ridge extended far 
 north, ending apparently in broken hills trending north-westerly, and thus 
 forming some northerly, as well as easterly, boundary to the marsh. 
 
 “ At Mizanza our second stage terminates abruptly at a wall (for here 
 it is precipitous) of 800 feet, the elevated forest plateau forming the third 
 stage. This wall, or ‘ step,’ here extends north and south, but north of 
 Mizanza it trends away to north-west and west-north-west, which bend we 
 follow and mount into the third stage, a little beyond Mugondoku, the 
 
 westernmost town of Ugogo. The third portion is the vast forest plateau 
 
 b 2 
 
20 
 
 TIIE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 of Uyanzi and Unyamwezi, on to which we mount from Mugondoku, 
 which extends almost unbroken to nearly the meridian of Unyanyembe. 
 
 “ At Uyui we enter the fourth stage or portion, the hills and dales of 
 Unyamwezi, which character continues to this place. The hills, often 
 little elevated ridges, trend generally north and south, and in our western 
 course we crossed many of their shoulders. The dales are seldom guiltless 
 of a bog, and this, with the change of air, warns us that we are in a far 
 different climate to that of the third stage, where we thoroughly enjoyed a 
 comparatively bracing atmosphere. In this, the third stage, we also 
 reached our highest elevation, about 4,400 feet, in the meridian of Jewe-la- 
 Singa, and also made the greater part of our northing. Kwikuru of 
 Uyui is in latitude 4° 53', 3,924 feet, and this place, Kwikuru of Urambo, 
 4° 37' 30" and 3,815 feet. To continue the description of the fourth stage 
 or portion :—To look at the avenue-like arrangement of hills on Speke’s 
 map, a hastily formed opinion might not reconcile it with my description, 
 but it must be remembered that Speke here made a northerly course, and 
 therefore, to him, these north and south hills would appear as 
 represented, while to us, travelling westward, they would appear all over 
 the country. This is the region of the Gombe Nullah—nullah, indeed— 
 to the passing traveller the drift wood and grass in the trees overhead 
 speak to him of some vast inundation rather than of a stream. The Gombe 
 Nullah is the lowest drain of a vast body of water, whose general direction 
 towards the Malagarasi is indicated by it. "When we crossed the nullah 
 at Ugombe, and again near here, it contained a few standing pools. This 
 fourth stage has brought us on to the watershed of the Tanganyika. 
 
 “ Much more interest is now awakened in the traveller by the distinct 
 characteristics of the natives, as varied as the countries they inhabit, than 
 in the mixed races of the maritime region. He is able now to say, this is 
 an Mgogo, or an Mhumba, or an Myanwezi, as the natives come before 
 him. I hope some day to give a more detailed description of these tribes 
 than I have time for now. In our dealings with the natives the same 
 tactics are necessary as in dealing with our own kith and kin, viz., a study 
 of their character. The variations in our dealings correspond with the 
 variations of the character and prejudices of those with whom we deal. 
 The slow and deeply mysterious dealings of some of the petty coast chiefs 
 contrast strongly with the off-hand, overbearing nature of the Wagogo 
 (though they, too, have an air of mystery withal) ; and most strongly with 
 the smart, business-like proceedings in this tow r n of Mirambo’s, though this 
 cannot be said to be the characteristic of the Unyamwezi nation; it is the 
 influence of an active chief with a comparatively large bump of organiza- 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 21 
 
 tion. The above-mentioned slowness and mystery, by-the-way, is 
 frequently a mask for stupidity and indecision. As all the world over in 
 dealing with peoples of differing characters and prejudices, so here, one 
 must be slow and deliberate, or off-hand and business-like, bold or humbly 
 patient, as circumstances require.” 
 
 Mirambo and his Country. 
 
 Rev. J. B. Thomson—August 4th, 1878. 
 
 “ We reached Mirambo’s new town, which he is busy building, on ths 
 27th of July. He received us most kindly, and has treated us very 
 handsomely while we have been here. He has certainly done his best to 
 show himself friendly to us; but when the novelty wears off I think he 
 will not be so kind. His missionary will have to treat him with much 
 firmness and kindness, never getting too familiar with him, but always 
 treating him with respect. He wished us to remain a month with him, 
 but when I told him how we washed to push on, and get houses built 
 before the rains, he was willing to let us go, but expressed a hope that I 
 would come back soon, and stay with him for a month. We leave here to¬ 
 morrow morning, the 5th inst. We have been here a week. We have 
 stayed a week, partly on Mirambo’s account, but chiefly to let our lame 
 and sick men get better. The chief has promised us men to go with us tc 
 show us the road. He says he has men who can go to Ujiji in five days, 
 but it will take our caravan from twenty-five to thirty days to get there. 
 [It actually took eighteen.] There is a near road through the Upa country, 
 but the Mapa are very bad people, and it w r ould not be safe for caravans to 
 go that way at present. The chief has given us seven head of cattle and 
 one fine sheep. I gave him two muskets, two pound tins of powder, two 
 boxes of caps, my own camp-chair, one woollen blanket, five coloured 
 cloths, and ten rupees, and £1 10s. in gold which he asked for specially. 
 He sent for my two head-men, and told them to tell me that he loved me 
 very much, but now he saw that I did not love him or I -would not have 
 kept the good guns to myself, and given him these poor things. He said 
 he was not a pagazi to use such guns. I sent back word to him that we 
 did not measure a man’s love by what he gave ; but the chief did not see 
 it, and nothing -would please him till I had to give him my own good rifle 
 and he returned the two muskets, the powder, and caps. I was unwilling 
 to part with this good and expensive gun, but I felt if it would aid in 
 securing his friendship and help our work, it -would pay us in the end to 
 part with it. It will be of the utmost importance to our work on the Lake 
 and to our communication with the coast to retain his friendship. At 
 
22 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 present the chief is extremely pleased with his gun, and says he will do 
 everything he can to help us both now and hereafter. He says he will help 
 Broyon to get men to take our things on to the Lake as soon as he arrives 
 here. If he does all he promises, my rifle will he money well spent. 
 
 “ I took an early opportunity of explaining to him the object of our 
 coming into the country and the nature of our work. He seemed pleased 
 with what I said, hut he thought the Wajiji would not learn, the Arabs had 
 been too long among them. He said he wanted white people to live with 
 him, and I told him there were some on their way now who would soon be 
 here, who were going to live with him. I think this is a most excellent 
 sphere for missionary labour ; and prudent, cautious, and generally practical 
 men would soon have abundant reward of their labours, but they will have 
 to be very prudent in their conduct with the chief for two or three years 
 till he gets to know what missionaries are. The country generally I would 
 say is unhealthy, but I think pretty healthy places could be found for a 
 station, and there are numerous fountains in the country, so that the mis¬ 
 sionary could grow his own food. He might not be able to get a fountain 
 close to his house, but that would not matter much. There is one uncom¬ 
 monly fine fountain five miles from here, and the water could be led out 
 easily, as it runs almost on the surface. 
 
 “This road is closed to wagons for years to come. We had quantities of 
 tsetse-fly every day from Ugogo till we came here, and Mirambo says his 
 country is full of it, and one has only to look at his cattle to see the truth 
 of this statement. I do not see the remotest hope of using vehicles on this 
 road until the whole country is thickly peopled. Long ago there was no 
 fly in Mirambo’s country. There were a thick population and many cattle, 
 but there has been so much fighting among them that the people are all 
 scattered and destroyed, and since then the fly has come and there are now 
 very few cattle. 
 
 “ Mirambo is about forty years of age, 5ft. lOin. or 5ft. llin. in height, 
 not stout, but firmly and well made, very active, far-seeing, and clever 
 mean if anything, but makes himself very agreeable. He has none of the 
 put-on dignity which kings so often assume. He has twenty wives and five 
 children living. His name is much feared among the natives, and I believe 
 he will do good in his way. He is gathering together the many scattered 
 tribes who live by plundering all they can. Already he has done a good 
 work in this way between this and Uvinza. He says, two years ago 
 caravans could not travel this road, but now travellers can go safely. As 
 a boy, the chief was brought up among the Wangeni or Watuta. By-the- 
 way, there are some of them here just now, and they speak Zulu, and I 
 
THE MISSION IN' CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 2 
 
 can converse with tliem. Mirambo can also speak Ivengoni, and I can 
 converse with him very well. We have had many conversations together 
 on religion and morals. He seemed much interested to hear that God was 
 the Father of all men, and that He loved all, and that He was the Maker 
 of everything, and that in Him everything lives, moves, and has its being. 
 
 “ Ivisessa, the governor of Unyanyembe, has sent a message to this chief 
 to turn us out of the country, and he (Ivisessa) is sending people into 
 Ugogo to rob caravans. He is doing his best to stop white men coming 
 into the country. Mirambo asked me to write a letter to Dr. Kirk for him, 
 in which he urges Dr. Kirk to get Kisessa removed. Mirambo says his 
 country is open to all white men, but Kisessa is doing his best to close it.” 
 
 Mr. Hore says :—“ Mirambo is a study—I have seen hut very little of 
 him, not enough to form an opinion; his people and his town tell of 
 activity and organization; the far-spreading allegiance to him tells of a 
 man of power, if not of influence ; but, when one sees his cliild-like way¬ 
 wardness and surprise in the presence of white men, one loses sight of the 
 great and firm man. From what little I have seen of Mirambo, however, 
 I have certainly been favourably impressed. His acquired power and 
 wealth do not seem to have spoilt the man. He is strictly temperate, and 
 actively engaged, as far as I can see, trying to establish a nationality and 
 promote the progress and improvement of his people. He longs for fundis 
 (handicraftsmen) to improve his works, and I think entertains a genuine 
 good feeling towards white folks; regarding them, I fancy, as a people who 
 will bring good things into his country.” 
 
 Mr. Hose’s Journal ( continued ). 
 
 “ Monday, August 5th. —Got up very early to start caravan, despatched 
 our mail to the coast in charge of Assani and Isa, Hamadi Seringe, and 
 Mabruk Maluk. The men came along for the loads in very good time, and all 
 seemed wonderfully refreshed by their stay here ; Mirambo came on astern, 
 shortly after we started, with Mr. Thomson. Walked off over a gently 
 undulating elevated plain, and this is certainly by far the best bit of 
 country in the neighbourhood of Mirambo’s town ; scattered and stunted 
 trees and bushes. Road bends to north of true course. Camped in the 
 village of Uyoa, which contains a large mud-brick house belonging to 
 Mirambo, who keeps one of his wives here—the house is called Ivanongo ; 
 there are ruins also of another house of the same kind. The village contains 
 some neat little round houses, and is surrounded with the (now) inevitable 
 milk-bush hedge. 
 
 “ Tuesday } 6th. —Got out of the village with the usual excitement. Our 
 
24 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 road is over the same elevated undulating plain. Passed by eleven villages 
 on the march, many of them consisting almost entirely of mere bee-hive 
 grass huts. The Wanyamwezi make very nice hark boxes of various sizes, 
 with attempts at ornament, and have a good notion of preserving pro¬ 
 visions in them and various other receptacles. I saw a hark box or bin to¬ 
 day, four feet in diameter. Sweet potatoes are very abundant; long grass 
 in places, scattered bushes and stunted trees, except a few palms and 
 tamarinds ; villages stockaded, and having milk-bush hedges. At five miles 
 on road we leave Urambo and enter Usange; water in a few pools and 
 puddles. Camp at village Kwikuru of Usange. Time on march five hours 
 and fifteen minutes. This evening two messengers arrived from Mirambo 
 to tell us that the little party of Watuta we saw at his town had left 
 suddenly; and that, from this and some information let out by one whom 
 he made drunk for the purpose, he warned us to hurry on to the Malagarasi 
 River with all speed lest the Watuta should have hostile intentions towards 
 us: beyond the Malagarasi it is thought we shall be safe; the country 
 being thickly populated. 
 
 “ Wednesday, August 7th. —Passed over same level country, except that 
 at three and a half to four miles on march we passed through half a mile of 
 fine forest tree jungle, abundant tracks of large game : six hours on march, 
 a weary time for the pagazi and very hot. Total, sixteen miles and three- 
 quarters. 
 
 “ Thursday, 8th. —Pagazi show that they suffer from yesterday. All the 
 march through forest, with a gradual dip about middle of march, after 
 which we rise again. At three miles passed through the large village 
 Kwikuru of Usagosi (Chief Karundi), and at nine miles another large 
 village (Chief Marui), with a fine pool of water—the road is then through 
 waterless forest for the rest of march. All very hot and tired and many 
 stragglers. Camped inside a very small stockaded village of Usagosi after a 
 march of fifteen miles and a half, time nine hours. 
 
 “ Friday, August 9th .—This hard travelling is beginning to tell on our 
 men, making it difficult to get away in the morning ; alternate forest and 
 open glades with scattered bushes—almost level—but rough ground over 
 the hard-baked deep mud ; foot-marks of man and game ; the elephants and 
 rhinoceros have left immense holes in some places where the mud has 
 been soft. At two miles and three-quarters passed a village on our left 
 hand, then the large stockaded town of Kwikuru of Ugala, where for the 
 first time I saw human skulls stuck on poles. These large villages have 
 mostly a huge hedge of the milk-bush and clumps of plantains forming a 
 barrier outside the stockade of the village—the intervening space being 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 25 
 
 used as garden, and often consisting of a tangled and overgrown mass 
 of ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, yams, tomatoes, pumpkins, &c., which, 
 together with the steam from numerous small standing waters, render the 
 close neighbourhood of these villages anything but salubrious. The next 
 village we passed was in the district Uvungu, and is ruled by the Chief 
 Karangu ; he is commonly termed ‘ Mtoto Mirambo,’ being some relation 
 of the great man’s. When we passed this village it was only partly com¬ 
 pleted, surrounded by a fine strong stockade, and the people busy erecting 
 round houses as at Urambo. We camped between the hedge and stockade 
 of another large village called Ugala, in a luxuriant garden, in which our 
 oxen were permitted to roam at pleasure, and thus got a fine feed of green 
 young shoots. We are told that the lions are numerous hereabouts, but 
 did not hear them during the night. Troubled very much by swarms of 
 mosquitoes. Six hours and fifty minutes on march. Too cloudy for 
 sights. 
 
 “ Saturday , August 10^.—Great trouble to get the men and loads away 
 —many being sick and tired—so we made a late start; passed through 
 thin forest and many palm-trees to the village of Kanyepo, after which we 
 descended slightly and waded for two miles, ankle deep and sometimes 
 knee deep in water. The distinct and permanent water-marks upon every 
 tree and bush form a perfectly straight line as viewed in the distance, 
 from the ground to the water-mark being of a much darker shade than the 
 rest of the wood ; the line is also continued most distinctly round many 
 little hillocks which in the rains are islets. As we wade along here the 
 water-mark is a clear foot above my head, and this level extends away to 
 the north to the Malagarasi, the line of verdure bordering which is now 
 clearly discernible. 
 
 “ Soon after leaving this village we enter Nvinsa and camp inside a large 
 village abounding in stockades, and hedges, and overgrown gardens, 
 Kasabula’s in Nvinza. The North Gombe Nullah, here the eastern arm of 
 the Malagarasi, flows parallel with our path one mile and three-quarters to 
 the northward, with low banks ; indicating the presence, in the masika 
 [rainy season], of immense marshes. This village of Kasabula’s is of good 
 size and very much divided up, the people evidently having an idea of 
 little private gardens fenced round with their houses. They have several 
 arrangements for making salt here—the dirty mass of mud and sand and 
 water, in a large bark box, on top promises little, but the clear salt water 
 is dripping out beneath. I went out a little way with our Mirambo’s 
 guide to look at the river about a mile and three-quarters north ; it is 
 called here the Nyika ; but they are sure about its being ‘ the same water 
 
26 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 as the Gombe Nullah’—that ‘it is not the Malagarasi but that ‘it 
 runs into that river a little farther down.’ This village they say used to 
 be called Usenye; and I think it perhaps is the Usenye of Burton and 
 Speke. A good mercurial altitude of Vega, simply corrected for refrac¬ 
 tion by Norris’s tables (without correction for barometer and thermometer), 
 gave lat. 4° 59' 46", which is exactly the latitude Speke gives of Usenye. 
 A mean of stellar observations north and south on two successive nights 
 agree in placing it in lat. 5° 0' 10". 
 
 “ Sunday , 11 th. —A day of rest and wonderful quiet considering we were 
 inside a village. We have always been enabled to meet together in peace 
 and comfort in my tent—the people listening wonderingly to our hymns. 
 Now Mr. Dodgshun is not with us to conduct the music, we use Sankey's 
 hymn-book, and always manage somehow to raise a tune. 
 
 “ Monday, 12 th. —Very glad to get the caravan out of the village. I 
 have a dead-set against camping with the caravan inside a village ; it is all 
 very well when one is travelling alone and light; but not with a caravan. 
 Kasabula, I am glad, has now advised against doing so. Marched 
 through thick growth of grass and bush and stunted forest; at three 
 miles passed across another patch of over-flow one mile with eight feet 
 water-mark; at seven miles, came to a ruined village said to have been 
 destroyed by Mirambo, district of Usunsu, and shortly afterwards arrive at 
 the first of Katalambula’s villages beyond which we camp. Heaps and 
 heaps of sweet potatoes, the people busily cutting them up to dry in the 
 sun. Katalambula is living or has gone on ahead to the ferry, but the 
 liongo man or representative of Msogera, the Sultan of Uvinza, is here ; 
 also the representative of said Katalambula, besides brothers and other 
 important persons, who unitedly put in a claim for very large hongo, which 
 is finally settled by paying them twenty-three doti (two pieces) Amerikani, 
 twenty doti (ten pieces) of kaniki, three durbwani, three sonbayah, three 
 sumpunga, three doti handkerchiefs, and one sahari.” 
 
 “ Wednesday , 14 th. —A winding and descending road through little bogs, 
 over shoulders of small irregular hills, past several ruined villages, and so 
 through more hills and broken ground down to the river, which, from here, 
 looks like a vast marsh. The camp is on the slope of a hill, and looks 
 right over the river below us ; it appears from here rather like a huge 
 swamp. Settled hongo for the river to-day by paying thirty cloths—viz., 
 eleven doti Amerikani, ten doti kaniki, two sumpunga, two sahari, one 
 dowli, one durbwani, and three sonbayah, also two fringed sonbayah—one 
 each for Mzogera and Katalambula. 
 
 “ Thursday , 15 th. —Waited an hour owing to delay of the boatmen, but 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 27 
 
 after a good looking up and agitation were enabled to get off' and down to 
 the river about eight o’clock. A descending path of a quarter of a mile 
 brings right into the marsh, which here borders the river on either side ; 
 from edge to edge, including the river, is three-quarters of a mile. The 
 deep water where we crossed was divided in two by a central patch of mud 
 bank over which the canoes have to be dragged; only these two central 
 deeps are at all clear of the long, tangled, rope-like grass with which the 
 rest of the river is covered, and to a great extent masked. We had to 
 wade thigh deep for 500 or 600 yards through this marsh in order to reach 
 a little hillock or island which was made the starting point for the boats. 
 
 “ The passage of the river by our caravan occupied five hours and a half 
 —there being about fourteen bark canoes, eighteen feet long by eighteen 
 inch beam, and three dug-outs, rather shorter, broader, and decidedly more 
 substantial. On the arrival of the canoes at the starting place, we found 
 that we should have to pay each canoe-man for every passage he made, 
 although the chief had promised yesterday that the hongo he received 
 should cover every expense of the crossing. In this paying of fares I 
 expended forty-eight yards of calico and about six pounds of beads. The 
 boats generally took two men and their loads at a time, for which were 
 paid half to a yard of calico, or a few beads. 
 
 “ It was nearly three p.m. when, all the men and loads having been got 
 off, I myself embarked; just when I was ready to go a canoe arrived 
 bearing for me a dish of stewed fowl and potatoes, which Mr. Thomson 
 had considerately forwarded from the other side. 
 
 “ I found our camp to be in lat. 5° 5' 27", two miles north of the place 
 where Burton and Speke and Cameron crossed, but still the crossing was 
 from ‘ Ngaga ’ to ‘ Mpete,’ these being the names of the districts on the 
 east and west banks respectively. 
 
 “ Friday , 1 6th .—Got started this morning in reasonable time. The road 
 led through thin forest for the first six miles with broad slabs of sand¬ 
 stone ; sometimes a slight descent led across little bogs fed by streams of fine, 
 but often iron-impregnated water. After this the road began to wind about 
 fearfully, and I soon became aware, by coming upon the caravan halted 
 and disputing about the road, that the track was lost. Here I was told that 
 Mr. Thomson and those with him (the vanguard) had gone on a path which 
 led north by east, but I was sure this could not be right. By compass 
 I soon decided which was the right direction, and we proceeded. 
 
 “ Messrs. Thomson and Hutley, however, turned up about two hours after¬ 
 wards by the same road we had come, very weary, and having come back 
 to the village the other side of the pori and then followed us. Hamees, the 
 
28 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 guide provided for this part by Said bin Salim, had proved altogether in¬ 
 competent, and had led them far astray. Served out the men’s posho and 
 decided to remain here over Sunday.” 
 
 “ Monday , August 19 th .—A close morning. I am tired of describing 
 the ‘ getting away.’ After a little broken ground, the road to-day lies 
 over the same elevated plain with occasional dips containing streams of 
 fine water, spreading out into bogs, and sometimes forming pools; here and 
 there, traces of iron revealed in a stream with a shiny scum. Farther on, 
 fine forest lands, with outcrops of horizontal strata of sandstone. At two 
 miles and a quarter on road we passed Pasumba’s village. To the north of 
 our road is a level open country, relieved, however, to north-east by an 
 isolated hill ridge, which is conspicuous—its highest point bears from 
 Pasumba’s north-east by east (comp.), and its lay is north-west and south¬ 
 east. From here we rise slightly on to a fine forest land. At three miles 
 a small village. And, after a long march, we come to the River Rusige, 
 rising here south-westerly. 
 
 “ Tuesday .—One of these ridges, high and conspicuous, close on our 
 northern hand at starting. Nine miles and three quarters bring us to the 
 Ruguon River, spanned by a rough bridge consisting of poles, apparently 
 pitched into and across the little river bed at random until accumulated 
 sufficiently for men to walk or clamber over. It proved a long and weary 
 march, many of the pagazi lying down at short intervals. I was eight 
 hours on the march, and the last man did not arrive till one hour after¬ 
 wards. Camped a little west of the river. Spring is approaching. The 
 trees are all sending forth their green young shoots, not, as at home, here 
 and there a leaf, but in great moist light green masses, affording most 
 juicy tit-bits for the elephants hereabout, whose tracks are numerous. 
 We saw striking evidence to-day of the immense strength of these 
 beasts in several shattered and prostrate trees, which they had knocked 
 down to crop off the fresh shoots. Arranged this evening for Mr. Thomson 
 to go on to Ujiji in order to find a suitable camping place. Overclouded 
 all day and at night. 
 
 “ Wednesday , August 21 st .—The men are much livelier to-day, and we 
 both got away well and made a good march. Nearly the whole track 
 leads through a very thick forest with long grass, and now and then strips 
 of dense jungle to right and left of path. About half-way on march the 
 forest was on fire, and myself and a few of the rear men had to wait some time 
 for its subsidence, the thick long grass burning up very rapidly before a fresh 
 south-wester. Arrived in camp a quarter of a mile west of River Masungwe 
 in five hours and a half. Overclouded all forenoon—too cloudy for sights. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 29 
 
 “ Thursday , August 22nd .—The men are all anxious to get to Ujiji, and 
 were ready for a start this morning before daylight. First three miles 
 through undulating forest, and then alternate ridges and valleys and broken 
 ground. To our north the Mountains of Uhha. Crossed three small rivers, 
 feeders of the Ruche; one at two miles and three-quarters, one at five 
 miles, and the other in the valley at eight miles, formed the boundary of 
 Ukaranga. The last three miles of march over a hill broken up into holes 
 and steep slopes covered with bamboos ; the hollows and ravines full of a 
 luxuriant growth of palms, creepers, plantains, &c., forming thick, dark, 
 damp masses of vegetation. A pleasant little brook meanders through 
 the hollow, and we camp, after a march of eight hours aud three-quarters, 
 one mile west of the old site of Niamboya. 
 
 “ Friday, August 23rd. —Everybody, myself included, in a great hurry 
 to get to Ujiji. We got away just before daybreak. Crossing the pretty 
 little brook which winds round the broken bamboo hills, over another 
 bamboo hill, and then along the side of a long slope through scattered forest, 
 with great variety of stone fragments, we slightly ascend until, at four 
 miles and a quarter, we are on the top of a ridge, and begin to descend 
 towards the winding valley through which the Ruche flows. From here 
 we get the first view of the Tanganyika ; we overlook Ukaranga Bay, and 
 plainly see the point Kasimbo, which bears west by west half south*. From 
 where I stood the valley was hidden by the tree tops beneath me, so that 
 it looked like a great gradual descent of tree tops right to the Lake. 
 Perhaps I should have taken off my hat and shouted had mouth and hands 
 not been both fully occupied at the time with my breakfast. As it was, I 
 sat down on a camp-stool and finished my breakfast with this glorious 
 view before me. 
 
 “ The pagazi were rapidly descending the rugged and stony path, and I 
 must keep up the impetus; we had never marched like this before. 
 Hurrying up to a party of men I would shout to them to go on, and as I 
 passed them shout to them again to come on. Juma hurried them from 
 behind, and Faragalla, alternately laughing and scolding at them, seemed 
 to be everywhere. We passed over two smaller hills in descending, and 
 then, instead of striking across the valley straight to the ridge of hills 
 overlooking Ujiji, as Stanley seems to have done, we made a long detour 
 to north-west to avoid the bog into which the river is spread out here, 
 eventually crossing the river at eight miles and a quarter on route. The 
 Ruche was here from ten to thirty yards wide, a very winding course with 
 many elbows ; lower down it spreads out in places into wide marsh. The 
 river has many deeps and shallows. Where we crossed it the first half was 
 
30 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 thigh deep, the second knee deep, and a swift current. I can quite undei- 
 stand now how one of Burton and Spelce’s routes crosses the Ruche twice , 
 Mr. Thomson, who went over it this morning early, tells me he crossed it 
 four times. Now a wide detour north to west to south-west hi mgs us, 
 after crossing several hills, a considerable feeder of the Ruche, another 
 small stream, and two small but deep pools, to the Ujiji gardens ; a dense 
 plantation of plantains, palms, beans, and little open gardens of maize and 
 potatoes. Winding through these gardens, a long ascent at last brings us 
 up to the heights overlooking TJjiji and the glorious Tanganyika beyond. 
 Between the Ruche and Ujiji, this elevated ascent and ridge is dry and 
 wholesome (except to the north-west, where there is a hole and little 
 swamp), and the air seems good and fresh. The valley of the Ruche on 
 the one side, and the hollow of Ujiji, filled up as it is with damp groves of 
 palms and plantains, on the other side, are bad. Here the caravan halt 
 according to my orders, that all may come up and proceed in proper order. 
 Three-quarters of an hour brings all hands together (except that Mr. 
 Hutley and his party—the vanguard—have missed their way and not yet 
 turned up ; I sent Uaragalla and another man after them). Ammunition 
 had been served out to the men for the march through the pori, after 
 leaving Mirambo’s, and, as I knew it would never be returned after the 
 journey, I thought we might as well have a little benefit out of it somehow'; 
 so I gave the men permission to make the usual display and noise as they 
 entered Ujiji. Meantime, I had retired to the bush and donned clean attire 
 (after having first carefully ascertained that there was no more bog on the 
 road), and gave the order to proceed. As avc descended towards Ujiji, the 
 open descent, bare of trees, shoAved off the Avhole caraA'an to good ach'antage 
 at a glance ; and never in my life ha\*e I seen a procession which has given 
 me such joy and pleasure. Yonder is Ujiji, towards which Ave lurre so 
 long marched and Avaded, and here, in due order, are our goods intact and 
 ourselves in excellent health. Two hundred and tAventy-five men in single 
 file, each, save the head man, with his load on head or shoulder. In front 
 Avalks the portly and consequential Songoro, bearing the Union Jack Avith 
 Avhite border; then the pagazi’s Kilangozi, Avith lofty head dress of 
 nodding ostrich plumes, perseveringly working his legs to gh'e due sound 
 to the iron bells hung round his knees ; then come box and bale, bag and 
 bundle, tents, pots, and kettles, and little bundles of matting and cloth 
 (the‘bed’ so easily Avalked off AA'ith). In the centre of the procession 
 Juma Mackay displays, on long bamboo, the dove of peace Avith olive 
 branch. After the last load, I march in orthodox position as master of the 
 caraA'an, followed by the head man, Juma, Avith his three stripes ; and his 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 31 
 
 mate Sudi closes the rear with the English ensign. As we near the town 
 the people run to look ; it is a great day for them (and indeed it is one for 
 us) ; some of our leading pagazi shout to the rest, who answer in chorus ; 
 and Juma fires his gun as a signal for a salute—bang, bang, now in front, 
 now behind, and anon a ‘ pistola ’ vies, with its big charge of powder, with 
 the larger weapons. Juma and Sudi, close behind me, seem to be trying 
 who can make the most noise with their gun, the excitement resulting in 
 Juma firing into the ensign and giving it a sad tear ; and at that I well 
 know they are congratulating themselves that I am in an excellent humour. 
 We entered the town and camped in the gardens of Bwana Musa. Mr. 
 Hutley turned up shortly afterwards, and the men who had lost their way 
 came in before dark. 
 
 “ Praise God ! ” 
 
 Arrival at Ujiji. 
 
 Mr. Thomson—Ujiji, Tanganyika, August 25, 1878. 
 
 “ We arrived here on Friday, the 23rd, all in good health and strength. 
 
 I hope you got my letter from Mirambo’s. We have just been eighteen days 
 in coming from there to this place. I am sending three men off with letters 
 this morning, trusting they will reach Zanzibar in time for the October mail. 
 They have very short time to do it in—about forty-five days—but I think 
 they will reach in time, and I am sure it will be a great pleasure to you to 
 know that avc have arrived safely. We had to pay fifty-six cloths at 
 Ivatalambula’s, the amount they charged us for liongo, and again we had 
 to pay forty-four yards of calico and six pounds of beads to the ferry-men 
 for bringing us across the Malagarazi Ith T er. This is all we have had 
 to pay since Ave left Mirambo’s, but I am sure, if Mirambo had not sent 
 men Avith us as far as the Malagarazi, avc should have had to pay much 
 more. 
 
 “ Through God’s blessing Ave have performed one of the quickest and 
 most prosperous journeys which have been done to Ujiji. We were just 
 seA T enty-three days from MpwapAva, Ave have lost none of our goods, and 
 Ave have had feAv of those troubles which other travellers seem to haA r e 
 had. I cannot tell you hoAV pleased Ave are to get here. I came on in 
 front on Friday to look for a good camping-place, but could not find one, 
 so Ave pitched our tents in the town, and yesterday Mr. Hore and I traA'elled 
 all OA'er in search of a good camping-place, and Ave found a most healthy- 
 looking site for our station, close on Ivigoma Bay. It is the highest hill 
 about here, but there is no good running stream near it, and if Ave wish 
 to make a garden to groAv wheat, Ave Avill lm r e to make it at some distance 
 
32 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 from the station. We will move to this place to-morrow and pitch our 
 camp there, until we try further to get a place as healthy with a running 
 stream close to it. The place I speak of is about three miles from Ujiji, and 
 can be seen from it. We have got no letters since two days after we left 
 Mpwapwa.”* 
 
 Settling in Ujiji.—Mr. IIore. 
 
 After describing Mr. Thomson’s very serious illness, Mr. Hore con¬ 
 tinues :—“ Hutley and myself continue strong and in good health. We 
 can get all ordinary food required in the daily market here, and with our 
 grand stores of preserves I have yet been at no loss for cookery for the 
 sick. We have hired a house for a term of twelve months from an Arab, 
 one Bin Nassur, at the rate of 25dols. per month, with a good piece of 
 garden ground attached, containing a spring of water for irrigation and a 
 few plants, plantains, bananas, and pomegranates and papaws in bearing; 
 also cotton. The house is undergoing extensive repairs, and for the present 
 we are living in our tents set up under an extensive shade, or temporary 
 house of reeds and grass. The house will be ready in a week or two. It 
 is spacious, of the Arab tembe style, with roof, with enclosed yard, out¬ 
 houses at the back, capable of accommodating four or five persons, with 
 good private rooms, a general room, a roomy verandah, two store-rooms, a 
 pantiy, bath-room, kitchen, and out-house, with some other mysterious 
 little upper chamber or granary. It is in certainly the highest and best 
 situation in Ujiji, and at its north-eastern extreme open from the east-north¬ 
 east to south with a front view of the Lake. We have also hired from 
 Said bin Habib his boat, likewise for a term of twelve months, for the sum 
 of 800dols., 400dols. having been paid (in paper on Zanzibar) on striking 
 the bargain, the other half to be paid in six months. This appears at 
 first sight an exorbitant price, but, as far as we can make out, Cameron 
 paid to the value of 600dols. for the use of a smaller boat for a few weeks. 
 The Arabs all agree in their accounts of the large sums of money they (the 
 boats) can make by conveying caravans across the Lake, and, as you will 
 see farther on, we are precluded from purchasing a boat or building one. 
 I believe I could have got this boat for 900dols., the old gentleman’s 
 named price being l,200dols. This boat is the best in Ujiji, and of the 
 kind is good and strong, but very heavy, with a stern something like a 
 Chinese junk ; she is thirty-eight feet long overall, and I am in good hope 
 of fitting her up pretty comfortably. I have already got a good part of 
 
 * This letter reached the Directors in London on Monday, November 11th, having 
 been only seventy-eight days in transit from hand to hand. 
 
TIIE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 33 
 
 the carpenter’s work done to her, having retained one of our pagazi, who 
 proved to be a Zanzibar shipwright, to work with me. 
 
 “ The stores I have brought to fit her out will just, I think, be appropriate 
 for her. I reckoned roughly, if you recollect, for a forty-feet boat. 
 Mr. Hutley is busy at various little matters, and already has a saw-pit 
 going; but there is no wood here, it will have to be brought by boat. He 
 is making tables and stools for the house, &c. The boat will be ready, I 
 expect, before it will be well for me to be away from here long at a time. 
 Said bin Habib is to supply me with the wood, nails, cotton, and asplialtum 
 for caulking, &c., which we require for the boat. He is also giving me a 
 little canoe for a dingy, and has lent me an Arab adze suitable for my 
 Zanzibar workman. The Arabs gaze in apparently friendly wonder at our 
 proceedings ; but more of this. 
 
 ‘‘We arrived here on Friday, August 23rd, and were greeted most 
 cordially by all the Arabs, or rather, I should say, the Sultan’s subjects, 
 for there are only four or five real Arabs here. Several of them sent us 
 large trays of food. One Musa, to whom we had a letter of introduction 
 from Said bin Salim, of Uyui, was most marked in his attention. We 
 camped in his sliamba, and he expressed himself, and still does so, and, I 
 think, acts up to it, as having ourselves and our caravan ‘ all upon his 
 head.’ The day after our arrival, in accordance with the promise of 
 Muinyi Heri, the Wali, that we could choose our own camping-place, 
 Mr. Thomson and I, accompanied by a young Arab, a protege of the 
 Wali’s, proceeded to Kigoma, a place which I had long since pitched upon, 
 in my own mind, from study of the available maps and books, as the site 
 for our mission station. On a hill overlooking that bay, and about 
 three miles and a half from Ujiji, we placed a little pile of stones to mark 
 the spot of our choice for a camping ground, and, probably, for a temporary 
 station. 
 
 “ Here in Ujiji we eat, drink, and sleep, as it were, in the public square, 
 our every movement is known, and that same night it was officially announced 
 to us that the Arab community of Ujiji requested (?) that we should not 
 move from our present camp until we had fully made known to them our 
 purpose in coming here ; and whether we intended to stay or otherwise, 
 nnd the like. They moreover requested our attendance at a public meeting 
 to be held on the Monday for that purpose. 
 
 “ On the Monday forenoon w r e appeared before the assembly at the house 
 of the said Muinyi Heri, and in a very friendly conversation explained to 
 the Arabs that we had come here like Livingstone or Cameron or Stanley, 
 
 to look at the country and Lake and people; that we probably should stop 
 
 c 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 34 
 
 in the country and endeavour to teacli tlie people many tilings which they 
 did not know but that we did, and to endeavour to improve their condition 
 morally and generally; that we wished to be friendly with all we might 
 meet, and would willingly endeavour to forward and promote trade by any 
 information we could give them, &c., but that we did not wish to trade our¬ 
 selves ; and finally that we could not say yet whether we should stay in 
 Ujiji or not. To this the Arabs unitedly replied that the Sultan in his 
 introductory letter had said nothing about our staying in the country ; that 
 we having been placed ‘ upon their heads ’ by the Sultan, they could not 
 think of our living for the present anywhere out of the town of Ujiji, where 
 we should be beyond their protective influence, and, on the other hand, that, 
 fearing what the Sultan might say to such proceedings, they could not risk 
 offending him (not yet knowing what we might be going to do) by allowing 
 us to acquire a possession in the country, either ashore or afloat, until they 
 heard further from him. We must therefore write to Zanzibar, and they 
 would do the same, to hear what the Sultan might say about us; and until 
 that time we could purchase neither house nor boat, but were at perfect 
 'iberty to secure the temporary use of any house or boat in the place, and 
 further, for the same reason, we must not build either, but can go to and 
 fro on the Lake and on shore whither we will. 
 
 “ I have written fully to Dr. Kirk on this subject, and requested him to 
 use his influence to obtain for us a suitable letter from the Sultan. Mr. 
 Thomson wrote to the same effect by our returning pagazi, in case they 
 might reach the coast before this mail. 
 
 “ I cannot think that Ujiji town will be the place for our station. The 
 natives are not here—only Arabs, Wangwana, and their slaves and hangers 
 on. The natives live near the beautiful Bay of Kigoma, with its elevated 
 sites, its harbour, and natural breakwater, and still farther north, on the 
 wooded heights of Bemba, all still in the district of Ujiji. 
 
 “ The Arabs here are generally agreed that there is a month yet before 
 the rains. After repeated stellar observations I can make the latitude of 
 Ujiji no other than what is virtually the same as Captain Speke’s, viz., 
 4° 54' 50". On Cameron’s map of the Lake (R.G.S.) the latitude is 4° 58' 3". 
 
 “ The turn boiling point thermometers give respectively for the height 
 of our house (which is about sixty feet above the Lake), 2,787 feet and 
 2,735 feet. Cameron calls the altitude of the Lake 2,710 feet. 
 
 “ The Arabs say that the grass in the Lukuga was all clean swept away 
 last rains by the rising of the Lake, and that it is now an out-flowing river. 
 One of them, Abdullah, went down it to the Kamolondo Lake, and had an 
 encounter with the natives (!).” 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 35 
 
 Death of the Rey. J. B. Thomson. 
 
 Me. E. C. Hore—Ujtji, October 17th, 1878. 
 
 “ I hope ere this a telegram has informed you of the trial which God 
 has called us to bear. At the time of writing my last letter to you, I 
 fully believed, as I then told you, that Mr. Thomson was in a fair way to 
 recovery. He had indeed, in a very great measure, as far as I could 
 judge, recovered from the first serious attack with which he was seized; 
 but it proved to be only the last effort of his naturally strong constitution 
 in its attempts to oppose the progress of fatal disease. From that very day 
 on which I wrote, Wednesday, September 18th, the poor sufferer gradually 
 relapsed, and quietly went home to Jesus (after another period of insensi¬ 
 bility which followed a second fit) on Sunday afternoon, September 22nd, 
 about a quarter-past two o’clock. So has our heavenly Father seen fit to 
 take from us one of our number, and one who had often been thought to 
 be the strongest among us. His will be done. 
 
 “ Hutley and I had an anxious time of it; but the anxiety after Mr. 
 Thomson’s death and the call for action, I think, kept us both up. We 
 both stopped up on the night of Mr. Thomson’s death. Hutley made 
 a coffin of teak planks, the only material obtainable; it was then covered 
 with black canvas and a tin plate etched with nitric acid, so as to record 
 the name and date. The next day was one of anxious waiting, first for 
 permission to dig the grave in the place I had chosen, then as to a 
 rumour that the Wajiji were hindering our men, and finally for the return 
 -of our men, that we might be strong enough to carry the heavy coffin; at 
 last, however, the day was so far gone that we were obliged to borrow six 
 men from our landlord, and proceed to the grave. 
 
 “ We buried the poor mortal remains on the hill at Kigoma, about five 
 miles north and west of this place (on Monday evening, the 23rd of 
 September), a spot which I had previously visited in company with Mr. 
 Thomson, and the situation of which he was pleased with. lie was 
 followed to the grave by all our men, who also knelt reverently round 
 it while, in simple service, we committed the body to the earth in sure 
 hope of a glorious resurrection unto life eternal. You will recollect 
 that, on leaving Mpwapwa, our personal outfits were reduced as low as 
 possible. The bulk of Mr. Thomson’s property is therefore yet to come. 
 I have, however, selected from what is here one pagazi load, consisting 
 (except a few pieces of cloth for packing) entirely of such things as there 
 can be no doubt it would be desirable to send home—namely, letters, 
 diaries, watches, Bibles and a few other presentation books, &c., &c. This 
 
36 
 
 TIIE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 pagazi load lias just started for the coast by one Juma Mselim, leader of a 
 caravan bound to Bagamoyo.” 
 
 Mr. Hutley adds :—“ I need hardly say how great his loss is to our 
 already small party, especially as one to whom we all looked as our 
 leader and guide in the ordinary matters connected with our Mission. For 
 myself, I felt that in losing him 1 was losing a very dear friend, from whom 
 I have received help and comfort at all times when I may have needed it, 
 and one who has helped me forward very much, both by precept and' 
 example, in that Diviner life which it is our constant duty to strive to. 
 
 “ As soon as possible after his death, -we consulted how best to proceed. 
 Having some planks, which I had cut up for a table, I set to work with 
 these, and ere the next morning our poor friend’s body was placed in this 
 rough coffin, and on the following day (Monday, September 23rd) we buried 
 him at Kigoma, a very pretty place some distance from any village or 
 garden. It is on a spot overlooking the Lake, and it is also one which he 
 himself had visited and approved as a suitable locality for a mission station. 
 
 “ Mr. Hore and I have visited the place once since the day on which 
 we buried our friend. We had a good look round the neighbourhood, and 
 we saw several places which are worthy of further examination with regard 
 to the formation of a station. Among other advantages, there are those 
 of a little bay, into which Mr. Hore has been recommended to place his 
 boat, as it is the quietest piece of water in the neighbourhood. A soko, or 
 market, is also held in the vicinity, and wood can be easily obtained; 
 •whereas here Ave liaA'e had to buy fire-wood, although we do not now, but 
 send our own men to cut it.” 
 
 Occupations and Influence of the Mission. 
 
 “ As regards work, since Ave have been here I haA'e been busy in making 
 furniture and fittings for the house. Among other things, I made a feAv 
 camp-stools, and these, in the eyes of the Arabs, Avho are our frequent 
 A’isitors, are almost the height of skilled AA’ork : to tAA'o of them, to 
 Avhom we liaA r e been indebted for their hospitality, Ave made a present of 
 one each, and they both seemed most highly pleased. 
 
 “ With regard to our Avork as a mission party, w'e have seemed to^ 
 progress rather sloivly Avith the people AA'hom Ave came to deal Avith more 
 especially. HoAvewer, Avhen Ave first came here, the Wajiji passed us by 
 Avithout looking, and on asking an explanation I was told they were afraid. 
 Noav, I am glad to say, they come to see us A T ery frequently—some for the 
 purpose of trade, others out of curiosity. One old Mjiji elder A T isited me- 
 some days ago, in company of a young Arab, who is a friend of his.. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 37 
 
 After showing him various things — not forgetting our most precious 
 one, the ‘ Bible ’—he declared, in his own language, that, from the time 
 of his great-grandfather till now, no one had seen such wonderful things 
 as he had seen in this one day. 
 
 “ You will be pleased to hear that, by our simple presence here, our 
 influence is felt, and we are doing some good. Only yesterday I was told 
 that, since we have been here, there have been but very few floggings 
 amongst our landlord’s slaves, and he has a great number ; and the slaves 
 say it is because of our presence here, and that before we came he had 
 thrashed a slave to death. A caravan, also, which left a few days ago, 
 taking’ with it a number of slaves for sale at the coast, conveyed most 
 of its human merchandise out of the town before daylight. One of our 
 own men told me that they were marched in chains, with a gun in front 
 and one behind. Thus, by degrees, we are making ourselves felt, and, ere 
 long, the poor down-trodden African may have cause to rejoice that we 
 are here as his friends. God grant that the day may soon come when they 
 shall rejoice that we are here, not only as their friends, but as their 
 instructors in the path of life, and of that God of whom, now, their notions 
 are so very vague.” 
 
 Movements of the Rev. A. W. Dodgshun. 
 
 Bigilo, 3rd Camp prom Bagamoyo, August 21st, 1878. 
 
 “Just a line or two to inform you of our progress with the second 
 through caravan. We got away from the neighbourhood of Bagamoyo on. 
 Monday, 19th inst., with a large caravan, for M. Broyon is entrusted with 
 goods for the Belgian expedition, and for the French Roman Catholic mis¬ 
 sionaries, who seem all to have suffered from inexperience of the mode of 
 transport, and to have expended their goods more rapidly than they antici¬ 
 pated. Experience in this country seems to be a very expensive commodity. 
 I have had to engage a small number of Wanyamwezi to carry my baggage, 
 and I am glad to say that transport is so cheap and plentiful this year that 
 I have only had to pay 6.50dols. each for the journey to Mirambo’s, in¬ 
 stead of 12dols. (M. l’Abbe Debaize’s price), or even 20dols., which are 
 usually paid. Then the food for these men is much cheaper than that 
 which we have hitherto paid to the Zanzibar men, and the loads are some 
 lOlbs. heavier than those of the latter.” 
 
 Mpwapwa, October 1st, 1878. 
 
 “ I wish to write a line or two, sending by favour of the Church Mis¬ 
 sionary Society, to announce our arrival here in safety, and to acknowledge 
 
•'38 
 
 THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the receipt, about twelve days ago, of your letter accompanying that to 
 the party. 
 
 “For the help of future coadjutors out here, I intend making a list of 
 the things we have found needful and useful in our journeys and settle¬ 
 ments. By this means I trust that) much unnecessary expenditure may he 
 avoided, and greater efficiency obtained.” 
 
 Matvara, Ugogo, October 28tii, 1878. 
 
 “You will doubtless wonder to see that I am no nearer to Urambo or the 
 Lake than this, the first bongo station on the road. We have been 
 detained at least a month at Kirasa and Mpwapwa by the dearth of 
 Wanyamwezi. Now, however, we are going on again, always excepting 
 this iniquitous bongo system, which has already caused us to stay over 
 . eight days here, and is not likely to be settled for two days more. Pombe- 
 • drinking and perhaps the influence of Iviscssa of Unyanyem.be are the 
 hindrances; although several minute occurrences have given them an 
 ■ excuse to annoy us more. The demands have increased since my brethren 
 passed; water must be dearly bought, but food is not dear. Since the 
 change of the moon we have had very stormy weather, with wind and rain. 
 To-night threatens, too. I cannot add much to my last letter. I have 
 not much hope of a very favourable reception by Mirambo, for I am only 
 ‘ little master,’ like Messrs. Hore and Ilutley, and have practically 
 nothing to give to his highness. Then this serious illness of Mr. Thomson 
 tells me to get to Ujiji as quickly as possible, for before April (perhaps) 
 work—building, &c.—would be difficult, if not impracticable, and it is not 
 good for man to be alone. If, after consultation and report, we find 
 Mirambo’s a desirable station, I am willing to go there. But the recruits 
 should be good and strong, and thoroughly common-sense men; not less 
 .able than I find myself after all this experience of the country.” 
 
 Uytji, December 28th or 29th, 1878. 
 
 “ At last I see some hope of an opportunity of sending to the coast, 
 and hasten to write what I can. You will have had news from Mr. 
 Hore of late date, for I hear that a post has left Unyanyembe within 
 a few days. I have only heard to-day of Mr. Thomson’s death, and the 
 news has greatly troubled me. Now, more than ever, I regret that ever 
 Mr. Price left us. While I intend to do my utmost to carry out the wishes 
 of the Directors, and shall lose no time in hastening on to Mr. ITore’s and 
 Mr. Hutley’s assistance, I feel greatly the responsibility which thus falls on 
 me. I hope you will be able to send out at least two good men to help us. 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 39‘ 
 
 and that soon. If another of us should he taken, the Mission will he in a 
 sad way, and almost daily, since coming to this end of Ugogo, I have had 
 reason to doubt whether I should ever reach Ujiji, for Mirambo and his 
 allies are at war with the Arabs of Unyanyembe, and have stopped the 
 road. 
 
 “ At Mukondoku, in Ugogo, we were within an ace of being attacked 
 by over 100 of the natives, fully armed, and thirsting for the blood of the 
 white men. Their only ground of complaint was that M. Broyon’s little 
 child had lost a toy—an indiarubber doll—in our camp, which they found, 
 and persisted in calling ‘ medicine to ruin their country ! ’ When con¬ 
 vinced that they were wrong, and that we had not the slightest wish to 
 injure them, they only grew the more violent, and told the pagazi to leave 
 us alone that they might kill us. A heavy payment of cloth smoothed the 
 Avay for peace, but we fully expected to have to fight for our lives, as we 
 had not a single man to be depended on to stand by us. 
 
 “ You may think our fears groundless, but w r e, on the spot, think far 
 otherwise. It is here a daily dodging of fate, and it is not a comfortable 
 state of things. Now, I hope, the danger is past. We have had to go 
 round by Utaturu and Ukimbo to avoid the murderers of Mr. Penrose, 
 and, on the way, have had the painful task of burying the remains of 
 hi. Wautier, of the Belgian expedition, who died of dysentery at Ikungu, 
 in Ukimbo, on the 19th.” 
 
 Uytti, January 8th, 1879. 
 
 “ I find that I have another opportunity of reporting myself along 
 with Mr. Ilore’s admirable communication of December 9th. I am very 
 glad to find that, in spite of difficulties, they seem to be doing a good work. 
 I am most anxious to get to them speedily ; but, owing to the very un¬ 
 settled state of this corner of the country, it is difficult to know how to 
 make even one day’s march. My pagazi, who w r ere engaged to go to 
 Mirambo’s, as well as M. Broyon’s, have run away here, and we are 
 obliged to hire men for each stage, at exorbitant rates. We have been 
 led to turn to Unyanyembe, rather than trust ourselves in the hands of 
 Mirambo, who is now at war vrith Ivisessa, the Arab Governor of Unyan- 
 yembe. I am trying to get some of our returning Ujiji men to go back 
 ■with me at once, via Mirambo’s. If I go thus without covctable wealth, he 
 can hardly care to detain or try to fleece me, and thus I may be able to 
 join my brethren sooner than I could do hy waiting to get Wanyamwezi. 
 We must hope this wretched war will soon end, for no one’s life is safe 
 from the plots of the contending parties.” 
 
•10 
 
 THE MISSION' IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 Mr. Hore—Kawele, Ujiji, December 9ih, 1878. 
 
 “ I have endeavoured to make the acquaintance of the Wajiji in many 
 ways. I am already on visiting terms with Abe, and with the Mteho of 
 Bangwe, both of whom I have doctored. We also have several acquaint¬ 
 ances who visit us occasionally, but the great attraction is the medicine. 
 By its means we have already made many friends amongst all classes, and 
 in this work, considering my inexperience, I have had wonderful success. 
 Abdullah bin Suliman and Muniyi Heri, the leader of two opposing factions 
 among the Arabs, both expressed their gratitude to me, one for relief from 
 rheumatism, the other from fever, while Muniyi Ahida, a third leader (an 
 old patient of Dr. Livingstone), rejoices in a considerable increase of eye¬ 
 sight due to the collyrium I administered to him. Nor is the fame of our 
 medicines confined to the town ; it has spread far and wide. For one poor 
 man, many miles away, his friends sent for medicine; he was burnt all over 
 his body by a gunpowder accident; the medicine was sent at once, but the 
 poor man expired before it reached him. One of Habib’s slaves has been 
 a regular out-patient for many weeks ; he had his hand blown off by the 
 bursting of a gun. When he came I was away working at the boat, and 
 when I came home I was told the blood was stanched at present, and I 
 could attend to it in the morning. However, I could not rest, for I thought 
 it could not be all right, so I went to find the man out. He was living in a 
 little tiny grass hut into which I crawled, and found the poor man much 
 exhausted, and just slowly dying from loss of blood; for his arm was quite 
 bare, and unbandaged, and dripping into a pool of blood. I asked for a 
 little bit of rag, but no one could furnish it. My own men seemed equally 
 apathetic with the slaves; no one would move or do anything. One of my 
 men, however, produced a bit of rag, and then, with a few grass fibres, I hastily 
 tied up arteries and flesh and all, after setting up the screw bandage, and 
 returned for better appliances. I then came back with a bit of candle and 
 bandages, See., and stopped the bleeding. I felt deeply thankful that I had 
 been moved to go and see the man, for otherwise he would certainly have 
 been dead before morning. Next morning I removed the protruding wrist 
 bones and trimmed all up as neatly as I could, and he is now getting all 
 right; but the process has been slow, owing to his poor food. Not a day 
 passes without a patient of some kind, and in this way we are getting- 
 many friends. 
 
 “ January 10 th, 1879.— I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of Mr. 
 Dodgshun, both in order that we may together select a site or otherwise 
 arrange for our permanent station, and that I may, without^ further loss of 
 
THE MISSION IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 41 
 
 time, get about my work on the Lake. If we do not stop in this house, 
 there are several sites around the possession of any of which would enable 
 us to comply with the instructions you have given us with regard to posi¬ 
 tion. Both in Kasimbo, Cashu, and Kigoma, are numerous real Wajiji 
 villages. We shall probably have to purchase the land, notwithstanding 
 the promise of the chief, but I think it would be cheap. I have been 
 busily engaged in setting up housekeeping, in keeping our landlord up to 
 the mark with the work of completion, in keeping up friendly relations 
 both with the natives and the wily but friendly-faced Arabs, and in laying 
 the foundation of a medical mission—for I am able now and then, while 
 giving medicine, to say a word or two as to the goodness of God in supply¬ 
 ing in nature the remedies for our diseases, as to the need of thanking 
 Him for all such mercies, and the necessity of doing that only which shall 
 please and glorify Him. 
 
 “ The winds and weather are now very unsteady; hardly any wind lasts 
 more than two or three hours. The hills hold on to the clouds, so that at 
 times the Lake catches none of the rain. Rainfall here in November, 
 4'53in.; in December, 4‘42in. On the mountains around us much more 
 rain has fallen, and on the Lake less. Thermometer on a table in the 
 house has not yet attained to 80° this month. Maximum generally 77° 
 or 78°.” 
 
 D 
 
LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY YATES AND ALEXANDER, 
 LONSDALE BUILDINGS, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.