South America Mission METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH Uainaf Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Columbia University Libraries https://archive.org/details/aroundacrosssoutOOcarr_0 H. K. CARROLL, LL.D. Around and Across South America Viewing the Mission of the Methodist Episcopal Church By H. K. CARROLL, LI,.D. First Assistant Corresponding Secretary THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH OPEN DOOR EMERGENCY COMMISSION 150 Fifth Avenue, New York PRICE, TEN CENTS Edited by CHARLES H. MORGAN AROUND AND ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA THE TOUR IN OUTLINE tour and observations, account of which given in the following pages, were under- ken in response to the instructions of the jard of Managers of the Missionary Society the Methodist Episcopal Church to make a thorough inspection of its mission fields in South Ame-iica, The time was opportune. South America, next to Africa the earliest field of missionary operations by our church, was entered in 1836. The years of comparatively slow development permitted in 1893 the organization Time of all our work on the continent as the South Amer- Opportune ica Conference. In 1897 the portion on the Pacific coast was given separate organization. But by the General Conference of 1904 the field was reorganized, so that the South America Conference should include the republics of Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil ; the Andes Conference, the republics of Chile and Bolivia; and the North Andes Mission, the northern part of the continent. Bishop Thomas B. Neely also became the first resident bishop, and it was in company with him in his entrance upon his work in South America and presidency at the sessions of the Mission and two Conferences named that my tour of inspection was made. I left New York December 28, 1904, with Bishop and Mrs. Neely and their niece, by the steamer Seguranca, and after an uneventful voyage of seven days landed at Colon 5 January 4, 190.5. I visited the Isthmus of Panama and studied conditions along the line of the canal, with the view to the establishment of missions in the new repul)lic; spent some days in Lima and Callao, attending the first Stages of annual meeting of North Andes ^Mission and inspect- Tour ing our work in Peru; attended the first meeting of Andes Conference at Coquimbo, Chile, and visited other points in that republic, including Iquique, Antofaga.sta, Serena, Valparaiso, Santiago, Concepcion, Temuco, and Vic- CASCADnS, CHAGRES RIVER, I'AXAMA toria, and inspected our church and school properties. My tour of the West Coast completed, I crossed the Andes, start- ing from Santiago, and visited Mendoza, Mercedes, Buenos Ayres, La Plata, Lomas, and Rosario, in Argentina, and Montevideo, in Uruguay, where the South America Confer- ence met in annual session March 22. From Montevideo the return voyage was by steamer to Rio Janeiro, where G SOUTH AMERICA — ROUTE OF OR. CARROLL lour days were spent, and direct from Rio Janeiro, by the steamer Byron, reaching New York April 19, 1905. The tour occupied nearly four months, or, more exactly one hundred and twelve days, of which fifty-two were spent at sea. In all I traveled about 15,000 miles. The ocean voyage was free from storms and high winds, and my journe 3 's on land were marred by no accidents, illness, or disagreeable occurrences. MEN AND THINGS ON THE ISTHMUS The isthmus is not particularly picturesque. I, oft}" hills lie to the north and the south of the Canal Zone and at the Pacific entrance, with one, Culebra, about three hundred feet high in the path of the canal. Where the railroad crosses, following the course of the canal, the country lies low. Isthmus mostly, and much of it is swampy. The cocoanut Described and other palms flourish, and the banana greedily drinks in the moisture and glories in the heat. It would seem that sugar cane, cacao, and other tropical pro- ductions would flourish if enterprising men would give them the chance. The railroad is a little less than forty-eight miles in length. It is said to have cost an immense sum when it was built, some fifty years ago, largely by American capital. It is a single-track road, five feet gauge, with first-class and second- class cars. The best trains make the trip from ocean Railroad to ocean in about two hours. It has been a paying in- vestment from the beginning. The employees, except conductors and engineers, are colored men, largely from Ja- maica. Great numbers of these West Indian negroes are on the isthmus, and they form two thirds or more of the popu- lation of Colon. They generally speak English. Nation’s Recent It is wonderful how Uncle Sam is spreading Record himself in these recent years, and how well known he is in the wide, wide world. Here he is in the Isthmus of Panama, two thousand miles south of Chicago, running a railroad, digging a canal, and caring for the health of Panamanians. You see his flag on one of his war vessels when you disembark at Colon ; you see 8 it in tlie Canal Zone, ten miles wide, as yon cross tlie isthmus, and you see it on another war vessel in the Pacific as you leave Panama. And the finest building in Panama is not the cathedral, nor the palace of the president of The Governor the repul)lic, but the big four-story, clean-looking General edifice occupied by General Davis and other offi- cers of the canal. It is something in tliese days to be one of Uncle Sam’s numerous children. But is it not strange that the United States should begin the greate.st undertaking of modern times Iry making war on HOSITI AL .-vr COLON moscpiitoes? AA'hen the I.sthmian Railroad was built, more than half a century ago, there was a frigid ful loss of human life. The sacrifice, it is commonly said, was a man for every railroad tie. While it is true the French Canal Coin- War on pany did not fight the mosquitoes, they did make M osquitoes generous provision for the health of their employees. We want to guard against malaria and pernicious fevers, and especially again.st the dread scourge, yellow fever. Bacteriological research has shown that the cause of these diseases is a minute germ, a bacillus, and these bacilli are 9 curried about by a I'einale inos(juito of the genus known as “ anoplieles.” W'e are making war on the mosfiuito, and taking sanitary measures to make the istlimus a healthy place to live and work, and put an end to Yellow Jack.” This is according to the latest science, and it not only has the support of a sound pliilosophy, but is grandly philanthropic Cn.KBR.C CCT, T>AN.\.MA CANAL Old Freiu li at work Uncle Sam is trying to inculcate cleanliness. Every passenger receives a circular advising certain precautions foi’ the preservation of the health, one of which is always Physical and to sleep under a mosquito canopy, which the hotels Moral Clean- provide for every bed. The governor of the Canal liness Zone is also solicitous for the morals of the Zone, anti has forbidden the sale of tickets of the Panama lottery therein. The lottery company, which has its office in the episcopal palace building, contends that the treaty to gives tlie goveriHjr no autliority to prohil.)it the sale of its tickets, but the United States jiuige here has decided that it does, and an appeal to the United States Supreme Court has resulted in sustaining his decision. Isn’t it fine to belong to a nation which believes that cleanliness is akin to godliness, and that morality partakes of godliness? But some one will ask: “ Isn’t the United States doing any- thing but ‘cleaning up’ the zone? Isn’t it doing any digging?” Well, yes. I was pri\-ileged with Bishop Neely to have an invitation, with the memlrers of the Pan-American Powerful Medical Congress, meeting early in ,Ianuary, in Pan- Machines ania, to go on an excursion to the ileep cut at Cule- at Work lira, about half an hour’s ride l)y train from Panama. 'We watched a dredge operating on one of the slojies, smoothing them off rapidly, and loading the clay in cars. But wliat most of the company were specially intere.sted in was an American machine loading broken rocks, and they could not withhold hearty applause at some of the wonderful feats of the powerful machine. After it was announced that twenty of these dredges had been ordered, a doctor of the party said: “I have been skeptical as to this canal, but I am so no longer. I believe it will be built.” The canal will be much larger than the French jilan called for. It will have thirty-five feet of water iirstead of twenty- nine. It will be one hundred and fifty feet wide at the bottom instead of seventy-five, and the sides will proli- Features alily be built of ma.sonry. It will cost hundreds of of Canal millions, Imt it will pay, and it will be a great boon to floating commerce. Colon lies low and is wet and warm ; Panama is cquallv hot, but the climate is drier and free from the heavy .storms which break occasionally on the Atlantic side. Pan- Isthmian ama is a typical Spanish-American city. Its streets Cities and are narrow, uneven, and dusty ; its buildings of a People uniform .shape, order, and color; its plazas well kept, with plants and royal ]ialms offering bright oases of green in the desert of brick and mortar ; its population more cosmopolitan than one would expect. English is as 11 coniinon as tlie S])anisli. The Tanania Herald is bilingual. Hut tliougli clerks and caliiiuai ahuo.st invariably speak the tongue ol' tlie Americans and many citizens of the United States are residents here, the American s])irit is lacking. There is no enterprise, no progre.ssiveness. The people are willing Tim ('.\Tm:i)ii.\i., enougli to have prosperity, but somebody else mu.st Iiring it. Tliey are keen to jirofit by the increased demand for prop- erty, which is scarce ; but they will hohl on to ecclesiastical and other ruins, as they have ilone for half a century or more, and ask exorbitant jirices for them, in.steail of rebuilding them and offering them for rent or for sale. . They had a tramway in Panama, but they got rid of it, and take cabs over the coljblestone streets to the depot and pay fifty cents native money, when they miglit ride smoothly and cheaply in a trolley. Part of the track .still remains. An.ericans must come to the isthmus and teach these easy-going jieople how to mend their ways, so that the stay of the tr.-n'eler in Panama will l)e less of a horror and more of a pleasure. The Panamanians also need to learn better ways in morals ami religion. On the west sitle of the chief plaza .stamls the cathedral; on the north side is the palace of the bishop. Under the epi.sco])al residence is the Panama lottery. Lax Everyliody patronizes it, and the church, I am told. Morals profits by the business. The jiriests arc well-dressed, fine-looking men, dignified in bearing, and in ajipearance more intellectual than those of the W'est Indies; but in mor- als they are said to be far below grade. The assistant to the bishop lives openly, a respectable, and intelligent resident told me, witli the woman who has liorne children to him. What of the influence of the church wlien its priests set such examples? The week spent on the Isthmus of Panama was chiefly occupied with ascertaining what oiiportunities there might be for missionary work there. Ur. I\'ood had been in the city of Panama for many weeks, and gave us much Missionary help in our search for property. The chief places Opportunities along the line of the canal are the city of Panama, on the Pacific, ju.st outside the Canal Zone; Colon, on the Atlantic; Culebra, where the deeji cut in the canal is to be made, and wliere four hundred or five hundred ma- rines are encamped, ami Ancon, the headipiarters of the canal government, near Panama. Besides tlie marines and officers and engineers at Canpi Elliott, for whom there is no Protestant service, there are at Ancon and in Panama hun- dreds of Americans, nearly all connected with the canal, with no Protestant pastor to care for them. In Colon there is an Anglican and a Wesleyan cliapel, in charge of colored pastors from Jamaica, and a po.st of the 13 Salvation Army. TIio liisliop and mysell' concur in tlie judgment tliat we liav(> no call to enter Colon, whose popu- lation, numhei'ing two or three thousand, is Religious Work chiefly colored. A reading room and occasional at Colon services would he a boon to the officers and men .stationed there. Panama, the important city of the Isthmus, has an Angli- can and a Wesleyan clia])el for the colored people, luit no other Protestant churches. Among its twenty thousand in- habitants are many Americans and others who speak English. The Spanish-speaking majority, seeing that American influ- ence must ]iredominate, are alive to the imjxjrtaTice of having their children educated in American scliools; and as a means of reaching the higher classes, whose religious prej- Beginnings udices are .strong, we deemed it important to open at Panama a school in the city, and Brother "Shmee and wife who are teachers of experience with a fair knowl- edge of the Spanisli language, were appointed I)y Bishop Neely for that purjiose. They iirrlved in Panama in April, IhO.i, and opened a school. Services in .Spanish and En- glish were inaugurated by Dr. AVoorl at the end of April. The selection of one or two missionaries to preach in iSjianish in Panama and in English in Ancon and ('ulel)ra is in the bishojr’s jilan, and with the approval of the Board of .Mana- gers, it is ho])ed may be ]iromptly made so as to relieve Dr. AVood and allow him to I’eturn to his work in Peru. INTO AND OUT OF ECUADOR AND PERU From Panama to Callao, Pent, is a journey of about nine days. ( )n the way we stoi)ped a day or so at C;uaya(|uil, Ecuador. Some of our former missionaries, under Dr. AVood’s superintendence, have been teachers in government Normal Schools at (juito and Cuenca, and their Prospects in names have appeared among the ajipointments of Ecuador the Lima District. Brother Trigoyen, an ordained deacon, a colporteur of the American Bible Society, has reported small companies of evangelical believers at Guayaquil and other places as one of the results of his work, H I)ut we have no organized clmrcli in Ecuador. The new presi- dent, though a Liberal, is not believed to po.ssess the firmness of his immediate predecessors in keeping down the active spirit of persecution by the priests, and outbreaks such as have occurred at Quito and C'uenca within recent years might have serious consequences both for those engaged in the Normal Schools and for Brother Irigoyen, whose new appoint- ment is as pastor in Guayaquil and vicinity. It is no doubt COAST IXDIA.VS or PKRr however, our duty to begin direct and open evangelistic work in Ecuador, where Methodists as Bible colporteurs have prepared the way for the organization of congregations. The long coast line of Peru is repellent. Bare, barren shores, without tree or plant or lilade of grass, unblessed by drop of rain, stretch interminably along the thirteen hundred miles from Ecuador to Chile, and rise into hills and mountains which stand as grim, silent sentinels of inhospitality. Coast and But lying between these and the great Andean range Mountains are valleys and plants which burst into bloom when of Peru the cool water of the mountain streams is spread over them, and sugar cane and even rice are pro- duced in large quantities. The mountains are rich in mines of silver and gold and copper, and American engineering skill has built a railroad to them, one hundred and thirty-eight 15 miles from Callao, climhing where it is possible to climb, tunneling where the grades are too stee]-) and a circuit could not lie made, up and u]i and up, through seventy-eight tun- nels, until a height of sixteen thousand feet is attained — the highest railroad in the world. oricurAs i.v ck.meteuv With cniidle aiui lioly water Here you see the curious llamas, the mountain camels. They are beasts of burden and carry sacks of ore from mine to railroad. They are patient and carry without complaint a hundred pounds. Beyond that their strength does not enable them to go and they cannot be made to carry. They !'•> are driven \vith,~sling and stone, the weapon David used against Goliath. In the inoimtains also are the Quichuas, descendants of the Incas. They are fanatical Catho- Llamas, lies, but are l)y no means inacce.ssil)le to the gospel. Quichuas It is to be hoped that our missionaries and native min- i.sters may be happy instruments of their conversion. The journey from Callao, the port, to Lima, the capital of Peru, may be made either by electric or steam power. The electric cars are large, comfortable, swift, and cheap, and run at short intervals until midnight. For a fare From Coast of ten cents you can make the trip in half an to Capital hour, passing through a level country, marked here and there witli huge mounds, the tomljs of ancient Incas. Thougli rain never falls on this plain, you will see flour- ishing vineyards and fields of maize, ke])t green by irrigation. Here was laid, in greed and blood, the foundation of an empire of Spanish republics. Conquerors H o w d i f- Pilgrim ferent the Fathers scenes at- tending the Pilgrims as they landed at Plymouth Rock and l^egan the work of building the mightiest state on the American con- tinent ! The Pilgrims were religious; so were the Spanish conciuerors. Lima bears witness still to their zeal for the church. The president of the lower House of Congress sits at the table, when he presides, around which gathered the inquisitors of the Holy Office three centuries ago to try and condemn heretics. The bells of seventy-eight churches speak daily of the thought and care of state .and people for the outward rites and cere- monies and symbols of religion. Seventy-eight churches for one hundred and twenty thousand peojde, and many of the edifices immense in extent, and most of them in good con- dition. The interior of the archbishop’s cathedral Zealous but has mucli to delight the eye. The stalls of the Superstitious choirand tlie chairs of the Pope’s delegate, the archbishop, and his coadjutors are of magnificently carved wood, the pillars around the altar are covered with gold, and the vaulted roofs are decorated with the metal which in- spired the heroic deeds of the Spanish conquerors. The air is THE CWTHEDKAl,. PEKC laden with incense, and convenient benches call the worshiper to his knees. Surely this is the house of God, the very gate of heaven to awaiting souls. Alas! There is that whicli pleases the eye and delights the ear, but the soul is not touched by the fire of God. .^11 1 lie honors of worship go to the Virgin Mary. iMiss Elsie Wood tells me of a church in Cuzco which liears this in- scription over its doors; “ Come, ye heavy laden, unto ^lary.” 18 What is being done in Peru to disseminate a living and I'niitful I'aitli is being done almost solely by tlie Methodist Episcopal (''hurch. The Anglican Cliurch has a chapel in Callao and another in Lima. The former Peru’s Protes- is practically aljandoned, and we hold English tant Field ser\’ices and Sunday school in it. We have congregations in Lima and Callao, and it was my good fortune to see the three — two Spanish and one En- glish. We have, including two which may be said to l)elong X.VTIVE I'HHISTl.AX F.iMII.V to the M'oman’s Foreign IMi.ssioi'.arv Society, six .scliof)ls in Callao, the newe.st being a kindergarten taught l)y .Mrs. Foreman. There is also a school in Tarma. a considerable town northea.st of Lima. The American Hilde Society has colporteurs in Peru and Ecuador, and they pre]>are the way for scliools and evangelists. It was a ] 1 ri^■ilege to attend a love fea.st in Callao ami hear glad testimonials of men and women as to the power of the gospel to save and to keep. There was some hesitation due to the presence of a stranger, but more than a dozen spoke or offei'ed prayer. Dr. Wood, a veteran in the service of the Missionary Society of thirty-five years, laid tlie foundations of our work Dr. Wood’s in Peru in 1891. Since then he and liis faithful wife Work have toiled with heroic endurance, unfaltering com- age, and a faith that nothing conld overcome, and two of tlieir daugliters have joyfully taken up the w'ork which has so much of trial and discouragement. Bishop Neely held the first session of North Andes Mission jMission and the hrethren of the Mission, foreign and Session native, separated with new courage and a larger hope. Evangelize, organize, develop the native ministry, were the watclnvords of the Conference. i(jri(,iri-: cou-kck— (co-euuc.^tion'.vi,) CHILEAN PORTS AND PEOPLE I'h’om Callao down the Pacific coast the journey is leisurely. The managers of the steamship seem to forget that they have passengers who may be in a hurry, and only to remember that theie is freight to be delivered and received at short intervals on the rugged and barren coast. Always the land 20 presents the same uninviting aspc'ct of red, barren lulls and mountains and treeless valleys. The rains of heaven fall not at all, either on the just or on the unjust, and our last glimj)ses of Peru and the first of Chile are of a country dead indeed to vegetation. A great business in nitrates, or saJilre, Chile’s Rain- as the natives call it, has developed, and makes less Coast Iquiciue and other cities in the raiidess region what they are. New deposits are being discovered elsewhere, and the shipments from Iquique are less than they used to be ; but a trust or association regulates the out- put everywhere, and keeps prices unil'orm and profitable. COOKIXG CI..\SS, AVKHK'.A.N COI.I.EGK. ((l.XCI-.l 'CION Chile is undoubtedly the longe.st and narrowest republic in the world. It has a coa.st line of three thousand miles, and its greatest width scarcely exceeds two hundred miles. Hot and dusty in these thousands of miles of thirsty Long, Nar- land? Most of it. Unendurable? Xo. C)n the row Republic shady side of the street or under a roof, at night, when the stars are blazing as they never blaze in northern skies, it is cool — muy fresco, as the natives say. Keep out of the sun and you can be comfortable day or night, 21 so far as the weather is concerned. Dust you must expect and perhaps Ret used to. In some places it is kept down a little l)y street sprinkling; hut it is always ready to rise when stirred hy the feet of horses or cattle. On lioard ship the THE .\LHA.MI!li.\, S.\.\T].\(;() After the AlhanOira in Spam weather is delightful, and only delightful. Not too hot by day, it is cool enough for wraps at night. The southern trade wind never fails to blow when you are twenty-four or thirty-six hours out of Panama, going south. A cool current flows along the coast northward and moderates the tropical climate to a wonderful degree. Chile is ready for the gospel — more ready fo receive than the church of Christ is to give. That fact I have seen demon- strated. At Antofagasta and Co(juimbo I saw congregations of converts from out the whited sepulcher of Ca- Welcomefor tholicism. At Valparaiso I saw congregations of Saving Truth three hundred to four liundrcd, mostly converts, on two successive week-day evenings, gathered to listen to the story, ever old, but new and fresh and delightful to them. At San- tiago I saw on Sunday even- ing in our new church, a few blocks from Santiago College, a crowded house of artisans, laborers, and their families. They heard from Idishop Neely’s lips and heart the doctrine of the world’s re- demption by the sacrifice of Jesus Chri.st. Every sign of favor was shown, and when the invitation was given to come and bow at the altar and have their sins washed away by the sprinkling of the atonement, scores came with- out delay. They knelt at the altar, as many as could reach it, and in the sjrace in front, and at benches on either sitle, and prayed most earnestly for themselves, while Dr. Hoover and Brothers Arms and Vanegas prayed in succession for them. Members of the church knelt with the seekers and tried to show them the way to Christ. At Concepcion a week later the same scene gladdened our hearts. The liishop’s strong and searching sermon was blessed by the Holy Cho.st, and many came forward and earnestly cried unto God for mercy, 23 and obtained it. I saw full houses on week nights in Te- inuco and in Victoria, come together not only to hear and welcome bishop and secretary, but to show their interest in evangelical religion. These people have the same experiences, the same tempta- tions, the same victories, and the same aspirations as the devout in the United States. They get tired of the useless, wicked lives they lead, and are hungry for the true Spiritual lircad of the gospel. ( )ne of those who knelt at the Needs like chancel rail in Santiago was asked why he had come. Ours “( ), I have come,” he said, “ because I am tired of lie- ing a useless drunken fellow.” Another’s tears of penitence rained upon God’s altar. Both te.stified with joy that their supplications had been answered. For bread the priests have been git'ing them stones, for fishes serpents. What kind of C'hristians do these converts make? In the main, they persevere. Few ever return to the old life or the old church. Most of them have much to learn, and they don’t learn it all at once. But the process of education Genuine goes on steadily and encouragingly. If couples have Converts been living together out of wedlock, they seek honest marriage the first thing. They give up liquor and gambling and profanity, and with liquor they generally give up tobacco also. They are more diligent in business, and more provident of their earnings. Their efforts to l^e clean, physically and morally, to hat'e decent homes, to be indus- trious and honest in their business, to learn their duties as parents and citizens, always tell in their favor. They be- come more prosperous, get more work and more remunera- tive work, and their employers are delighted with their trustworthiness. These evangelical Christians are, therefore, constantly rising in the scale of civilization. Pure religion lifts them out of the degraded life into which the Roman system had caused or at least permitted them to fall. Prot- estant natives can thus get positions more readily, particu- larly responsible positions, than Catholic natives. A non-Protestant employer in Concepcion says Protestants •24 are trustworthy; lie was never deceived in any of his Prot- estant employees hut once. What wonderful men have lieen called to leadership in our South America fields! John Dempster, William Goodfellow, Henry (1. Jackson, Thomas B. ^^'ood, Charles W. Drees, John F. Thomson, Ira H. La Fetra, all of whom save the Missionary first two are still on this side of the dark stream — Leaders men of consecration and devotion and intellectual power. The name of that evangelistic and mi.ssion- ary apostle, William Taylor, must ever he associated with tlie heg'innings of our missions on the West Coast of South I. America, and it was he who called to the work inaugurated hy him, hoth educational and evangeli.stic, the man who was more completely to organize it, to shape its policies, direct its energies, and carry its burdens. That man was Ira H. La Fetra, whose mind and heart and soul are wrought into our colleges and churches as those of no other man. He and his wife luive laid wide and enduring foundations for the fu- ture of vital Christianity in all the southern portion of the West Coast. Methodism has a grand field in Chile, particularly in south- ern Chile. We could make wonderful advances if we had fifteen or twenty thousand dollars more annually, all to lie devoted to evangeli.stic work. Our schools are doing Calls to well ; they ha\’e prepared the way for the churches ami a Advance .strong native mini.stry. The four college.s — oneforf)oys and girls in Icpuque, one for girls in Santiago, and one for hoys and one for girls in Concepcion — are widely known and have had an immeastiral)le influence in softeinngthe prt'j- udices of cvcit the most de- voted Catholics. .\11 exceiit one of the colleges were self- supporting in 1904, jiaying all expenses except transit of teachers, with a handsome sur- plus to spare. The college properties, well situated and entirely free from del)t, excei)t the mortgage on the vSantiago College for the Ijeneht of the {)ress, are in good condition. A strengtheiung of tlie teach- ing corps, and additional facilities for growth in the two Con- cepcion colleges, better church l)uildings, and an increase in the force of missionaries of two or three energetic evangelistic workers for special work in Santiago, Valparaiso, and Con- cepcion are the mo.st pressing immediate needs. THE CONTEST OF FALSE AND TRUE STANDARDS Irreverence for sacred things is a marked characteristic of the people of this country, even of those whose devotion is unejuestioned. Sacred names and terms are used in a way .\J.\KI.\li .MKTIIOIIIST ITl.l'ITS IN CHILE tliat seems hlasplie- mous t-o a visitor I'rom tlic North. Supensti- tioiis regard Irreverence for tlie cross and makes it a Superstition common ob- ject. On every liill or mountain toj) overlooking a village, town , or city t he sacred emhlem appears, that all “may he under the cro.ss.” .\s to morals, one cannot truly describe the condition of the masses witli- Low Morality out seennng and to deal in the Lottery wholesalede- traction. They are frightfully low, and the priests di.sgrace their holy call- ing byscandalous lives, and are patterns of vice more often than examples of purity. The lottery every- where flouri.shes, and is used by the church itself, as witness ad- vertisements to raise funds for pious pur- poses. The forms of the church are observed. 28 mass is celebrated, prayers are said, rites performed, particu- larly those of baptism and absolution, the confessional is maintained, and religion is duly honored by the state; the church pervades tlie state and the state pervades Form without the cliurcli, and the republics are nominally Chris- Substance tian; luit t hough the peoide may honor God with their lips their hearts are far from him, and their lives tlo not correspond with their profession. I am referring how to the church as a whole. I would not say there are not F.Wn.TIES (IK THE TWO .MET 1 1 OH 1ST ( 'o I.EEO ES. ( '(I N( ' E l>( TO.M exceptions, perhaps many, where the heart ami life are en- gaged; but that the rule is as above stated one who sees, hears, and observes cannot long deny. Many lives seem not to be touched by the church at all, except at two points: the beginning and the end. Every infant must be baptized. At death, also, the aid of the church is reque.sted. A man may have led an evil life, been a scoffer, and neglected all his religious duties: but when he comes to his last hour, the i9 priest is called in to hear his confession and to give him abs('- lution. Tluis a life may compass all that is evil, and the record be wiped out by the final act of a priest. As the church does not excommunicate except for denial of the faitli or of its own autliority, it is easy to see how men may feel free and even encouraged to follow the bent of their evil natures. TO.Mli UF BE]iX.\KIlU (j'HiGOIXS, S-\XTI.\GO A Liberator of (.'bile The Scriptures would show men the folly and danger of sucli a course, Init the church is not a friend to tlie free use of the Scriptures. Comparatively few of the priests, it is said, own a Ihble. They know their mi.ssal and by it Bible Kept from know something of the Word of God, but are ig- the People norant of much scriptural history and teaching. They do not wish members of their flock to have the good Book or read it, and for instances where it has been di.scovered in Catholic homes, confiscated, and publicly burned one need not go far into the past. Colpor- 30 teurs of tlio American Bilile Society are persecuted at the instance of the priests, and in some cases driveai out of cities and towns I:)y the public authorities. Everybody remembers how Penzotti was imprisoned in Callao eight months for the crime of selling Bil.)les. The prison where he suffered was pointed out to me at the foot of the Calle Colon. Christian countries are these, or so they are called, and the church which donnnates them calls itself Chri.stian, and yet the Christian Bible is treated as something dangerous to the Christian faith and, therefore, to be deined l.o the faithful! KIIOXTIEK CH.M'EL XE.M{ VICT(lin.\ Desjute the priests the Scriptures find their way through faithful coljiorteurs into many Catholic families, and are read, too, with much intere.st and rarely, it is believed, without some profit. Sometimes the purchaser (they are Colporteurs and never given away) reports to the priest, and is the Scriptures ordered to give up the l:)Ook as an improper one. Generally the latter is not informed. Whenever the book is sold it is accompaided with a testi- mony as to its value in making men and women better Chris- tians. Not a few have been led to a better life by it, and, forsaking the Roman Church, die without the presence of a 31 priest, believing in salvation by Christ only. Of this fact we may be fully convinced: there are no countries needing the pure gospel more sorely than these, and Protestantism, with its free Bible, must furnish it, or it will not be had at all. .MOUNT .VC()XC.\(:U A, AM>E.S li.^NOE Higliest summit feet) in the western hemisphere CONDITIONS IN THE PLATA COUNTRIES The journey across the .Vndes from Santiago had little in it of peril or hardshij), and the disagreeable features, if such there were, can with difficulty be recalled, they were so com- pletely swallowed up liy the continuous delights of the Over the ever-changing scenery, always lieautiful, often wonder- Andes ful, and at times truly majestic. Leaving Santiago on Friday moi'ning, we were in Mendoza, on the eastern side of the Andes, Saturday evening, a little after seven o'clock, having made the entire journey l\v rail, excepting about 32 twenty-nine miles, including the climli over the pass, some thirteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, which was accomplished in a coach. Tunnels are being bored through the mountains, and in a year or two the rail route will be complete, and express trains are expected to make the dis- tance between ^'alparaiso, on the Pacific, ami Buenos Ayres, on the Atlantic — some nine hundred miles or more — in forty- four hours, so that the bishop at Buenos Ayres will l)e able to reach any of our churches in South Chile, except at Punta -Arenas, in less tlian three days. wirii s.\i)iii.Kii.\(:s IX akK>!V. .MONTEVIDEO Miss Stolhi C. Lolita, M.l)., Princiiml, in ceiitn- where brave Brother Justus H. Nelson labors faithfully on, refusing to abandon his j^ost. Four days were spent in Rio Janeiro, the capital of the inunense republic which Brazil and embraces so much of the area of the southern its Capital continent. If there is a more beautiful harbor than that of Rio Janeiro I have not seen it. Built on almost as many hills as Rome, the city itself lies in the embrace MdXr.MKNT or GKXEll.VL (illt.tAO. I'A1,.\CE SOU.\UE. I> A K A , BRAZIL of mountains made glorious liy rich tropical verdure. Its long arcades of majestic royal palms are worth a journey of thou- sands of miles to see. But the Brazilian capital, rich be3mnd comparison with its natural glories, is a Portuguese cbys second in po]Hilation among the cities of South America. '■,w ''\>.;.:^;05''^ .*rV^< ■h'VW-'p :” ■ ' ;; ■'■> .^s I *;i' !^■',v^> /r. •■’f ' '‘'.'-‘i S''*4''''V- Tc '" •’• ' ’/**•. '•>’*1 ^ ' -‘' i"; P 'V; '• '.t- '1. S ■':V: i'’ 'V,',-‘: S' ;^'''' ;,','1 * ■: ' '^i;v TS';i; ‘i ,^-i^ '■ ' , '* .'' ' ’:~;''Yy;-!' 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