MASTER NEGATIVE NO. 95-82342- 19 COPYRIGHT STATEMENT The copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted materials including foreign works under certain conditions. In addition, the United States extends protection to foreign works by means of various international conventions, bilateral agreements, and proclamations. Under certain conditions specified in the law, libraries and archives are authorized to furnish a photocopy or other reproduction. One of these specified conditions is that the photocopy or reproduction is not to be "used for any purpose other than private study, scholarship, or research." If a user makes a request for, or later uses, a photocopy or reproduction for purposes in excess of "fair use," that user may be liable for copyright infringement. The Columbia University Libraries reserve the right to refuse to accept a copying order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. Author: Cunard Steamship Company, Title: Official guide and album of the Cunard Steamship Place: London Date: 1878 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DIVISION BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET MASTER NEGATIVE * ORIGINAL MATERIAL AS FILMED - EXISTING BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD 565 0912 Cunard stean-sbip company^ limited. Official guide and album of the Cunard steam- ship company. Rev. ed. London, Sharpe, 1878. 266 p. plates, maps. Z0-^\ Advertising matter included in paging. Contents—The Cunard steamship company. He- printed, Tvith additions, IVom "The Times " of No- vember 17th, 1875...!nie Mediterranean.-Enrland to America. Hints for travellers in the United States, Meredith Edwards. -Right across, A flight from San Francisco to Neir York, by W. H. Dixon. —Transatlan- tic trips, by G. A. fC9NTIMUCD OM NEXT C:ahs») >asiNK9t 565 C912 Cunard steam-ship company, limited. Official guide and album ... 1878. (Card 2) Sala.— Liverpool, by Joseph Hatton.- -London, by IV. B. Jerrold. — London to Paris, by Hinton Campbell. --Paris, by ^T. B. Jerrold.— Les ruines de Paris, par Kdmond About.— The Paris e^diibi- tion. RESTRICTIONS ON USE: HLIM SIZE: ?&ml\\ TRACKING « : TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA REDUCTION RATIO: 1 (0^ IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA IB IIB DATE RLMED: MM INITIALS: FILMED BY PRESERVATION RESOURCES. BETHLEHEM, PA. BIBLIOGRAPHIC IRREGULARITIES MAIN ENTRY: Cunard Steamship Company, ltd. Official guide and album of the... Bibliographic Irregularities in the Q riffinal Document: List all volumes and pages affected; include name of institution if filming borrowed text. Page(s) missing/not available: V olume(s) missing/not available:__ Illegible and/or damaged page(s): ^Page(s) or volume(s) misnumbered: X Bound out of sequence: pages 89-96 __Page(s) or volume(s) filmed from copy borrowed from: Other: TRACKING*: MSH04339 CO O 3 3 03 cr I? ^ JO M CO 00 Nl CO U1 3 3 sE c < o COM O tit 3 3 CD in O o m CD CD -T" 3S CX) CJI ^ o o < H O 3 3 > in 8 3 3 ro te ABCDEFGHimMNCIPQRSTUVWXYZ >tlcia4ghi|tilninopantuv C u 1 TJ ^ 7^ O 00 31 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefigh i j k I m n opq rstuvwxyz 2.5 mm 1234567890 CJI 3 3 b 3 3 I? << TO N GO do"! "CO ;D X -< • The Cunard Steamship Company. offioiaij guide THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP REVISED EDITION. SUTTON SHARPE AND CO., 145. QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, MDGCCLXXVIII. AND COMPANY. r SAILING ARRANGEMENTS, PAr.E Fleet of Steamships - - - - - - 30 Notice to Passengers - - - - - 31 Transatlantic Royal Mail Service - - - 32-33 Liverpool to the Mediterranean - - - 34-35 French Service - -- -- -- 36 Bermuda and St. Thomas . - - . 37 Glasgow and Londonderry ----- 38 Glasgow and Belfast ----- 3^ England and Scotland - - - - _ Cunard Line — Post Office Telegraphs - 41 Bill of Fare 42 List of Prices for Wines, Spirits, and other Liquors - -- -- -- 43 Rules and Regulations ----- 44-45 Instructions Regardlvg the Ordinary and Colour-Vision of Look-Out Men - 46-47 ILLUSTRATIONS. CUNARD STEAMSHIPS "Abyssinia" and "Algeria" (with cabin plans) - - . CUNARD STEAMSHIPS "Bothnia" and "Scythia" (with cabin plans) CUNARD STEAMSHIP "Gallia" (with cabin and deck plans) - - - - CUNARD STEAMSHIP "Russia" (with cabin plan) - - - - - - TRACK CHART— Atlantic Routes — Mediterranean Routes - CONTENTS PACE PREFACE - - - xi THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Re- printed, WITH ADDITIONS, FROM " The Times " of NOVEMBER 17th, 1875 - - - 1-2? THE MEDITERRANEAN - - - - 49-54 ENGLAND TO AMERICA Hints for Travel- LERS IN THE UNITED StATES. By MeREDITH Edwards ------- 55"^^ RIGHT ACROSS : A Flight from San Fran- cisco TO New York. By W. Hepworth Dixon - - - 67-88 TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS. By George^ Augustus Sala - . - " ~ " . ^9il£5 LIVERPOOL. By Joseph Hatton - - - 107-118 LONDON. By W. Blanchard Jerrold - 1 19-134 LONDON TO PARIS. By Hintqn Campbell - I35-H3 PARIS. By W. Blanchard Jerrold - - 145" LES RUINES DE PARIS. Par Edmond About 163-172 THE PARIS EXHIBITION - . - - 173-178 b PREFACE THE CUNARD COMPANY, in the preparation of the Third Editkm of the Guide to the sailings of their fleets and lines of steamers have added in several important respects, to the informa- tion given in the former editions. The two articles entitled " London to Paris" and "England to America" will remove many of the small doubts and difficulties by which travellers are liable to be perplexed ; and the article upon the Paris Exhibition will be useful as a guide to the greatest European attraction of the year. The account of the new steamer, Gallia, aflFords proof of the constant solicitude of the Company to give every possible accommodation and convenience to j their passengers, in addition to the safety for which the Cunard fleet j has so long been renowned. As in the previous editions, there will also be found several essays by known writers, intended to assist in lightening the inevit- { able tedium of a voyage. Liverpool, March, 1878. THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Reprinted, with additions^ from the " Times " of November Vfth, 1875. THIRTY-SIX years ago^ a tune so short that a man scarcely past middle age can remember it as if it were yesterday, although so long if we measure it by the materia! progress which it has witnessed, the mails between England and Halifax (Nova Scotia) were conveyed in sailing vessels, Government ten-gun brigs, which, in the naval parlance of the day, were commonly known as " coffins." The possibility of steam navigation had been demon- strated about twelve or fourteen years earlier, and coasting steamers were then actually engaged in trade. Between Glasgow and Liver- pool there were two keenly competing lines of such steamers, one of them represented by the Messrs. Burns, of Glasgow, the other by the Messrs. Maclver, of LiyerpooL Thoughtful men had already begun to foresee that this steam coasting trade would probably, in time, be extended to the ocean; and the British Government had pledged itself to use the first opportunity of so extending it, by the substitution of steam mail boats for the vessek then in use. Mr. (afterwards Sir) Samuel Cunard entered heart and soul into the proposed enterprise, came to England for the purpose of promoting it, and accepted the Government tender for the carriage of mails across the Atlantic. He put himself into the hands of Mr. Robert Napier, of Glasgow, the eminent marine engineer; and to his skill and .judgment in the early stages of the enterprise, especially with r^gfuxl to the class of vessels to be employed, the owners attril)u|e much of the success which has. B I THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. attended it Mr. Napier ' introdticed Mr. Cunard to the Messrs. Bums and the Messrs. Maclver, and the proposals which he made to these gentlemen were so acceptable to them that he was able to induce the former rivals to unite with him, and thus to con- stitute the co-partnership which has since been familiarly known as the Cunard Company, and which undertook to carry the wishes of the Government into effect. In pursuance of this undertaking, the new Company entered into a contract for the iScMtnightly conveyance oX. mails between Liverpool and Halifax, Boston, and Quebec The contract was for a term of seven years, and the ships em{4oyed under it were to be of such a build diat tbey m^t be availaUe as troop ships, or for transporting stores in time of war. Four steamers were at once conunenced, die Br^mmia, the Acadia, the Caledonia, and the Columbia, each of one tiiousand two hundred tons gross register, and of four hundred and forty horse power. The first of these, the Britannia, left Liverpool on her first voyage on the 4th of July, 1840, the day known to Americans as " Celebration Day," thus inaugurating the " service " by a happy coincidence which, although unpremedi- tated, was none the less significant of future success. The Britanma entered Boston harbour after a run of fourteen days and eight hours. Even to those who watched her as she was receding from the shofts ftf England, the departure of the first Adantk steamer was an event of no small sigmficance; but her rapid passage and her safe arrival at Boston were there hailed with an en&iisiasm wiifeh qmu^ fitxn a quick and just appreciation of die benefits wMdi wodd feOow m her wake. At that time the American people, aldioiigii they had surmounted some of the difficulties incidental to the establishment of the Union, and were beginning to realize the boundless resources and the gigantic future of their countr)% were nevertheless fully conscious of their comparative isolation from the arts and sciences of the old world, from the glories of its Hterature, from the competitions of its commeroe, and from the associations of its past. The Britanma was like a hand stretched out finom England to invite America to assume ha proper pboe in the comity of natioiit; and her voyage not ooty but was feit to be, the harim^ of tint prod^fkxis gniwdi of THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, intercourse, and that prodigious rapidity of communication, which are among the greatest marvels of our own marvellous age. The good ship came to her moorings late on a Saturday evening, but die inhabitants of Boston thronged the wharves to welcome her. and fired salutes of artillery in honour of her arrival. Three days afterwards, on Ae 22nd of July, Mr. Josiah Quincey, junior, pre- sided at a public banquet, held in celebration of the establishment of steam postal communkation between Great Britain and America; and it is recorded that Mr. Cunard, who had himself acccnnpanied this first great venture of his firm, received one thousand eight hundred invitations to dinner during the first twenty-four hours of his stay in Boston. For seven years, the four steamers already mentioned, rein- forced by two others of increased dimensions and power, the Hibe7'nia and the Cambria, each of one thousand four hundred and twenty-three tons, were sufficient for the fulfilment of the mail contracts, and for the demands of the mcreasing traffic both in passengers and cargo. At the expiration of this time the British Government, realizmg the increasing importance of the mail service, called upcm the Cunard Company to double the number of its sailings. This change rendered it necessary to double the fleet, and four new steamers, die America, Cantada, Niagaret, and Europa were added early in 1848. These ranged from one thousand eight hundred to one thousand nine hundred tons burden, and from six hundred to seven hundred horse power ; and they were followed, in 1850, by the Asia and the Africa, each of two thousand two hundred and twenty-seven tons, and of seven hundred and fifty horse power. These again were followed by two others, one of which was sold to the West India Company, the other being the Arabia, which rendered good service during the Crimean War. She was of two thousand four hundred tons burden, and two hundred and e^ty-five feet Vx)%\ this bemg the greatest length upon which it was thought desuable to venture, in a wooden vessel, with a view to strength and endurance in the Adantic Every new steamer was, in some respect, an improvement upon her prede- cessors — generally in point of size and capacity, and always in point of comfort and accommodation. J Prior to 1853, Oie fleet itte Cuoard Company had consisted entirely of nooden vessels, propelled by paddk-wheds ; but in that year the Andes and A^, both iron vesseb with screws, were added to the long " catalogue of the ships." These were afterwards taken up by the British Government for transport service to the Crimea; and they were followed, in 1854 and in 1855, by the ^tmi and y^^na, both iron screws, and both for the Atlantic trade. In 1856, with the Persia, the experiment was tried of building an iron paddle-steamer. The Persia was of three thousand three hundred tons burden, and nine hundred horse power; and she was followed in 1862, by the Sealia, also built of iron, and of still larger dimensions. It soon became sqpparent not only that iron was die best material for ocean steamers, but also that the screw was the best means of propelling them ; and in all the subsequ^t additions to the iket these truths have been recognised and acted upon. The next improvement adopted by the Company was the intro- duction, in 1870, of what are known as compound engines, by which a considerable saving of fuel was effected ; and, in the course of time, a variety of minor improvements in machinery have been adopted, as soon as they were shown to be conducive to safety or efficiency. While no effort has been spared to render the Atlantic steamers fitting channels of communication between two great nations, the operations of die Cunard Company have not been confined to this sing^ source erf* traffic The Conqiany was formed, as has been said, by the amalgamation of firms o 133 r34 lO !o 139 140 o lo 140 160 I5S IS6 mmmmwmmm 1 I6S m 172^ Sstu* Steps I.C* Itf.QiMnllnflmSt Lndoo. THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. shipment to America and to Mediterranean ports. They have now thirty-seven steamers (including the vessels which have carried the mails for thirty years between Halifax, Bermuda, and St Thomas), which go to Havre and to all the chief Mediterranean ports of Europe, Asia, and Africa, as Gibraltar, Malta, Syra, Constantinople, Smyrna, and Alexandria, to the Adriatic, and to the gulfs of Lym Balaklava to Scutari, and were by no means the only auxiliaries furnished by the Company. On the 24th of February, 1854, the Niagara sailed with eight hundred and eighty-seven officers and men, and twelve horses, few Malta, in anticipation of the great struggle with Russia which was then im- pending. She had only arrived from Boston on the 13th of the same month, and less than a week was consumed in preparing her for her new duties. On the 14th of the same month the Cambria arrived from New York, and was immediately fitted up to receive six hundred and forty-seven men and twelve horses. She was ready on the i8th, and sailed for Dublin on the 22nd to embark her troops. The Jura, the Europa, the Arabia, and the ^tna were all employed in Ae same manner, and were all prepared with the same alacrity. In 1855, Ae Arabia was ^>ecially required for the transport of horses, and the necessary accommodation for two hundred and three horses was fixed on board of her widiin tourteen days from the receipt of the order. The Emeu was bought from the European and Australian Steam Navigation Company to supplement the fleet, then overtaxed by the exigencies of the Government requirements. THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Again, in 1861, when the friendly relations between Great Britain and America were put in jeopardy by the forcible arrest of Messrs. Mason & Slidell on board of the Royal Mail steamer Trent, the resources of the Cunard Company were at once brought, into requisition to convey troops and stores to Canada. The arrest of Messrs. Mason & Slidell was made at the beginning of winter, when ttme was of exceeding value. On the 4th of December onkrs were telegraphed to Liverpool to fit up &e Anstraiasum as a transport She was coin|deted on the lodi, took in her coals on the nth, embarked the 60th Rifles aad stores on the 12th, and sailed fat Halifax on the 13th. On ^ 5th of Decsember siniilar orders were received with regaitl to the Persia. She received her coals on the 14th, embarked one thousand two hundred and seventy officers and men on the 15 th, and, under the command of Captain Judkins, landed them at Bic, on the St. Lawrence. It is no small addition to the military resources of Great Britain that one of her commercial companies should be able to render her such prompt and powerful assistance, and that they should render it, as they have always done, not only with w31ing« nesfik but also with energy and zeal. Suice 1840^ when the Cunard Company, strictly so called, came into existence^ it has built one hundred and twenty-two steamers; but the members of the firm, since 1824, have bdlt no less than one hundred and fifty-eight, the list commencing in that year with the Pimga/f two himdred and ninety-six tons burden, and one hundred horse power. During this long period many perils have, of course, been encountered ; but in no single instance has the life of a passenger been lost by any accident. In only two instances has a passenger sustained any bodily injury ; and in each of these, an action for damages having been brought, and having been defended on the ground that the injury was due to the negligence or fault of the sufferer, the verdict of the jury was given in favour of the defendants. This exemption frcMn casualties has sometimes been described as ''luck," but only by those who fail to perceive that no person, and no firm, was ever continuously " lucky for fifty years. It has, in truth, been simply the natural result of a care and foresight which have 6 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, scarcely left luck an opportunity for intervention, which have dealt equally with the largest questions and the minutest details, which have extended to every particular of construction, equipment — and service— and which, not content with seeing everything well done in the first instance, have secured the perpetual maintenance of the prescribed standard by incessant watchfulness and supervision. On this point it will be necessary to speak once more when the pre- parations for the departure of each ship are described. The Cunard Beet, as at present constituted, consists of forty-six vessels, having an aggregate of eighty-four thousand and fifty-four tons of gross tonnage, and twelve thousand nine hundred and eighty-eight nominal horse power. Twenty-one vessels are in the Atlantic mail service, eleven on the Mediterranean and Havre line six ply between Glasgow and Belfast, three between Liverpool and Glasgow, three between Halifax and Bermuda, and two betwe^in Glasgow and Londonderry. The following list gives the names, capacity, and steam power of them all ; — ATLANTIC MAIL SERVICE In what Year built. 1 Tonnage. Nominal Passenger Capacity. Na Vessel s Name. Gross. Raster. Horse Power. Cabin. Steerage I Abyssinia • . • • . . 1870 3376 2159 500 202 X068 2 Aleppo •* . • • . 1865 2057 1398 2S0 46 593 3 Algeria • • . . a • 1870 3428 2192 500 200 1054 4 Atlas . . . • • • ... 1S60 2393 1552 300 69 833 5 Batavia ... • . . 1870 2553 1627 450 150 800 6 Bothnia • • • . 1874 4535 2923 600 300 1 100 7 China .•• ■•• 1862 2638 1613 420 150 753 8 Gallia .•• 1878 5000 3200 700 300 1 200 9 Hecla ... ... i860 2421 1578 270 70 800 lo Marathon ... .«• i860 2403 1552 300 70 850 II Olympus ... i860 a4i5 1585 270 70 900 12 Palmyra ... •*. 1866 2044 1389 260 46 650 13 Parthia ... ... 1870 3167 2035 450 150 1031 14 Russia ... ... 1867 2960 1709 600 430 15 Samaria *.. .«• 1868 2605 1694 300 130 800 16 Siberia 1867 2497 1698 300 100 800 17 Scythia ... ... 1874 4556 2906 600 300 IIOO 18 Saragossa ... ... 1874 2165 1390 300 74 548 19 Tarifa ... • • • 1865 2058 1399 280 50 650 20 ai Satellite ) Jackal > Tcndcis... (1848 1i«S3 157 180 82 III 80 80 600 600 7 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, MEDITERRANEAN AND HAVRE SERVICE. In what Year built Nominal Hone IJassenger Capacity. Kedar Morocco Malta Sidon Demerara Trinidad Brest ... 8 Cherbouig 9 Nantes Balbec Britiaii Qaeen lO II 1861 1861 1865 1861 1872 1872 1874 1874 1873 1853 1849 1875 1855 2132 1853 1904 1900 1472 1614 1472 774 763 17614 1215 1193 1449 1 198 1231 1228 949 1037 949 484 3X3 212 280 •3X3 300 300 160 160 160 130 140 11408 3366 40 76 40 69 46 46 8 4 8 29 71 494 550 555 550 22 16 127 386 157 166 Na In what No-ninal Passenger Capacity. Year built. Register. H .se Powcf. Caliin. Steen^eu I 2 3 4 5 6 Bufialo Uama Camel .„ ... Racoon Mastiff Wtiius ... 1865 1865 1866 1868 1878 1878 686 686 691 831 1000 1000 391 391 393 479 550 550 250 280 250 300 300 300 1 1 1 1 1 1 4894 2754 1680 YtamStTSImmt. In what Year boilt Tonnage. Nominal Horse Power. Passenger Capacity Gross. R^;ister. Cabin. 1 Steerage. I 3 3 Raven Penguin Owl „^ 1869 1864 1873 778 680 914 490 439 150 180 930 80 66 100 3T0 285 330 3,373 »i43« 560 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, GLASGOW AND DERRY SERVICE. No. Vessel's Name. Inivfaat year built. Tottaage. Nominal Horse Power. Patwgcr Cqwcity. Gross. Register. Cabin. Steerage. I 3 Bc&r... ... Wasp 1870 1874 632 550 391 320 150 xoo HALIFAX AND BERMUDA SERVICE. No. Vessel's Name. In what yeerbiiOt Tonnage. Nominal Horse Power. PasMBger Capaoty. Gross. Register. Cabin. Steerage. I 2 3 Alpha ... ••• DeltA ». »• Beta .M ••• • 1863 1854 1873 653 644 1087 514 428 677 XI2 120 160 2384 1619 392 SI JMMARY. No. paratas from the bridge to this house, so that ordefs can be conveyed instantly to the man at die wheel, and the leoe^ of these ordeis can be acknowledged 1^ a letum signal. There is also a steam steering ai^>anitiis in feserve, to be used in case of need, and a system of signals and fclmm signals between the bridge and the engine-room. The vessd is divided into nine watertight compartments, by wrought-iron bulk- heads, and die openings through these bulkheads, required for ordi- nary traffic, can be instantly closed by watertight wrought-iron doors, which are secured by lever handles acting upon wedges. The accommodation for passengers is of the most luxurious description ; the sleeping cabins are large and airy, the saloons light, spacious, and tastefully decorated. The Bothnia carries ten boats, which are ca^aiUe containing her full complement of people; and she has a crew of one hundred and fifty of&cers and men, all told, divided into the three classes of seamen, engineers or firemen, and stewards. It has always been part of the Cunard Cmnpan/s agrslem that every man, iriiatever his duties on board the shqp^ iteuld be a member of some paitknlar boat's icrew, and that the crew of ea^ boat diould be formed firom all three of the dasses which nave been mentioned. The arews aie only engaged fen- the single voyage out and home; and altiiough the same men may ship over and over again, yet every crew is liable to contain men who are new to the service. As soon as all are on board, each man is informed to which boat he is attached, and who is the commanding officer of that boat, and each boat (^cer is expected to know ever}' member of his boat's crew. Tn order to prevent mistakes, each man receives a metal badge, with a brooch £utening, which bears the number of his boat; and, as soon as an order for boat service is given, each man is y tmA to fqpair instantly to the boat to which he belongs. THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, and to await further orders. In each boat's crew there are four seamen, every one of whom has his definite work with regard to releasing and lowering the boat and shipping the oars, so that they an know exactly what is required of them, and are not liable to get in each olho's way, or to wrangle about their duties in times of emergency. When a vessel is ready to sail, but before the passengers are received on board, a complete inspection is made by her commanding officer, who is always accompanied by one of the Messrs. Maclver, and by the marine superintendent, Captain Inglis. The crew are drawn up for the inspection in two lines, on die star- board and port sides of the deck, each man wearing the badge of his boat, and ready to answer to his name. The general muster roll having first been called, orders are given to prepare for boat service, and the men break up into the necessary number of crews, each at its own station. Each boat's crew is then called over, the four seamen answering to their names by saying " number one," " number two," number Aree,*' and " number four," but the engineers and stewards answering "here" only. When this is done the order "boats out** is giv^ The boats are covered by proper tarpaulins, under which they contain such necessaries as a keg of water, oars, spars, sails, an axe, and oAer alliances. Each boatfs crew works independently of Ae rest, but a certain emularioo to be first stimulates them all, and in the case of the Botkma three minutes suffices to have her ten boats in the water, while the captain, from his place of vantage on the bridge, looks sharply after laziness or awkwardness. When the boats are down, and proof has been given that everything connected with them is in its place and ready for service, the order to haul them in is given, and in a few more minutes they are all restored to their customary resting-places. The same organization of crews is applied to fire duty; and as soon as the boat inspection b completed a fire drill takes its place. In this some men have charge of buckets, with rqpes attached to them, so that they can be filled over the side and hauled in. Otibers have to f<^!ch and join the hose, to connect it with pumps worked by the engines, or to take diatge of die jets. Others are prepared with blankets, to be wetted and thrown over the flames, but the essential matter is that every man has his place THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. and his duty, and every man is acquainted with them both. The I same division into crews, as for the boats, is also used for manning the pumps ; and, as soon as the fire drill is over, the pumps receive the next attention. Each crew is expected to be in its place ; each | pump is tested and examined, and it is shown that there is no i water in the bilge. This done, the crews are dismissed, but the \ in^yrting party proceeds to make a complete tour of the vessel. The store-rooms are visited, and the steward is cautioned with regard to his duties in req>ect of them, and is e^ieciaUy tdd that no odwr fight than that of a closed and locked hasp must ever be taken to dieni. Every water-ti^ door is shut and tested to see that it HMkres fine^ on its hinges, and that none of its lever fartenii^ are msted or out of order. The supply of rod%ts and other signals is i>yi^tnitMi was in^>ected by responsiWe peofde before the voyage was commenced, that nothing is jammed, or rusty, ix£ out of gear, but that everything b dean, and ready to work smoothly and easily in its place. The reig^i of order, on such a vessel, is well nigh as absolute and as complete as on board an English man-of-war. Among the many precautions regularly taken by the Company, it may be mentioned that, on account of the danger of navi- gating the Mersey by insufficient light, the ships are seldom aDowed to leave Liverpool in the afternoon or evening. They genera% sail in the morning ; and, in consequence of the state of 12 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. the tide, this often necessitates an early departure. It not unfrequendy happens Aat passei^:ers are inclined to grumble at this particular proviinon for their safety, especially when it compels them to leave their beds on diore at an hour which they consider unreasonable. It is a source of considerable expense to the Company itself, since every ship which carries emigrants must receive a permission to depart from an official of the Board of Trade, and for this permission, when it involves a visit of in- spection in other than business hours, an extra fee is demanded by the Government. The inspecting officers, on such occasions, are apt to support the passengers in grumbling ; and they certainly grumble with better reason. It is strange, but none the less true, that they are not themselves permitted to receive any benefit from the higher price which is set upon their matutinal services. Another precaution against an avoidable danger is to be found in the care which is taken to test the sight of the men who are employed in look-out duty. These men are examined, in accord- ance with the instructions g^iven to the medical officers of the Company, in such a manner as to test the perfection of their vision of distant objects both by day and in fading light ; and also with reference to their power of distinguishing the two lights, respectively red and green, which are carried on the port and starboard sides of ships at night Colour blindness in a signalman is said to have been more than once the cause of a railway accident, and the defect, although less common than is generally supposed, is occasionally met widi. The Cunard Company, in pursuance of dieir policy to foresee and provide for ev^ything, leave no opportunity for this or any other ascertainable fSwilt of sight to imperil the safety of their ships or passengers. The ships of the Cunard Company have all been buik in the Clyde, chiefly by the Messrs. Napier, and, of late years, by Messrs. J. and G. Thomson and others. The builders have no responsibility beyond that of following the plans and specifications which are delivered to them by the Company, and in which the most minute points of detail are provided for with a care which cannot be surpassed, and with a fulness of knowledge which is the result of more dian forty years of an experience which has been 13 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. i impreoede&ted in its extent and its variety, as weO as in the fflKiality by which it has been guided, and in the wisdom with whidi its teachings have been applied. With a fleet thus numerous, thus built, thus manned, governed, and provided, there must, it is evident, be an enormous business to be done, and one which must afford the means of subsistence to a large number of persons. It has already been said that (in the Ocean line) the crews are engaged only Ux a single yo^ige out and home ; and a sing^ sailor isasf be dius engaged as many as ten times in the year, and may be counted ten times over. With thb pvefiwe, die first tiung to mention is» tbat the Company di^iped aad diadiaiged forty-diree thousand men durii^ die twelve moodis between the ist of July, 1871, and the same date in 187a ; so that they may be said to have given constant employ- ment afloat to at least eight thousand six hundred persons, the great majority of whom would be the bread-winners of families resident in Liverpool or its vicinity ; and the figures of this single year fairly represent the ordinary course of their opera- tions. Besides the crews, about fifteen hundred men find r^^ular employment in the work of loadii^ smd unloading the ships; and from five to fifteen hundred more are enga^;ed, at the docks of I the Company in Lhrerpool, in fittii^ and re^tttng vessds to meet die doBMids "It was aaaounced to us that the nxaA momrag we should be at Liverpod. On die ooododing day iA the voyage it is usual to prolong die dinner-hour beyond the ordinary time; a quantity of wine is put upon the table, and the gifted in song and eloquence edify the company by the exercise of their powers. The sea by tliis time has lost its horrors to even the most tender susceptibilities ; every one is in high good humour and excitement at the prospect of a speedy release from their confinement, and it is generally ^ ^A<^ the 18 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. occasion of great rejddng. Very flattering things are said of the qualities qf the sWp and the skill and virtues of the c^tain, and of the vast advantages of such speedy communication b^ween the two greatest nations in the w'-one years those contracts had been in force." The cheers of the House at this announcement, which could be made again to^ay, were the best possible evidence how much the service thus rendered was appfedated in Parliament. 24 THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY, Besides passengers and mails, the great fleet conveys every year countless tons merchandise, composed of articles infinite in number and in variety. The greater part of this is a home- ward trade, because, in the ships which carry out emigrants, more of the steerage is left free for cargo on the homeward voyage. Still there are large exports, consisting to a great extent of iron machinery of various kinds, yarn, soda, fine goods from Manchester, French silks, and ''articles de Paris!' The imports consist largely of cotton, cheese, grain, and leather; and the best notion of the magnitude of the transactions of the Company may be gathered from the amounts which they pay in tonnage dues, and from the proportion borne by these amounts to the whole tonnage of the port of LiverpooL Taking eight years, from July, 1866, to July, 1874, and quoting from the figures of the official returns, it appears that during this time ^ Company paid no less than one hundred and eighty-nine thousand three hundred aifd fifty-one pounds sterling in tonnage dues, or an average of close upon twenty-three thousand six hundred and sixty-eight pounds a year. In the same period the total tonnage dues of the port were, for steam and sailing vessels together, two million four hundred and nine thousand three hundred and four pounds ; and, for steamers alone, one million two hundred and twenty-six thousand and forty-five pounds. It follows that the Cunard Company pay about one-thirteenth of the total tonnage dues, and about one-seventh of the steam tonnage dues, of the port of Liverpool, and, with tiiis crowning evidence of the greatness of their work, this brief narrative of its rise and progress may be fitly brought to a conclu^on. E 25 THE NEW STEAMER "GALLIA." 1 I I THE past history of the Cunard fleet is an unbroken record of i progress, as regards the size of the vessels, the power of the engines, the perfection of the equipment, and the amount of care i bestowed upon the accommodation and the comfort of passengers. The ships of a bygone period, which were looked upon as leviathans in their day, have gradually been superseded by others, possessing capacity and speed which a few years ago would have been thought ^ £d>ulous ; and in this respect the Company, true to its traditions of | the past, is constantly seeking the means of further advancement in the same direction. The "Bothnia" and the "ScyAia," in some re- spects, surpassed all their predecessors, and the pc^ularity which they have earned, and the success which has attended their voyages, have induced the Company to contract for the building of another steamer of similar appointments, but of increased size and speed. The new vessel is being constructed by the usual builders of the Company, Messrs. G. & J. Thomson, of Glasgow ; and she will be named the "Gallia" in honour of the Paris Exhibition. It was intended that j she should take her place in the line during the present season, and i be instrumental in furthering the passenger traffic which the Exhibition may be expected to produce ; but ^e strikes on the Clyde have in- terfered wi^ her progress ; and the Company make it a rule never to press forward either the construction or the steaming of their vessels i in any way which may possibly interfere with perfect workmamship or with perfect safety. It would doubtless have been possible to complete the " Gallia " in some fashion, but not with an absolute ! assurance of first-class work in every particular. The last consideration ' outweighs all others, and the new ship will not appear in the Atlantic line until next spring. She will, however, be represented at Paris by E 2 27 THE NEIV STEAMER " GALLIA. a model ; and a (Hcture of her, together with diagrams of her three decks — the spar deck, the saloon deck, and the main passenger deck — win be found among the illustrations of this volume. These diagrams win be sufficient to diow at a glance that nothing has been left | undone in her construction to provide for the comfort and pleasure of her passengers. On both these points the long experience of the Company affords a guidance the value of which it would be impossible to overrate; and which they have endeavoured implicitly to follow. Alone among their competitors for the Atlantic traffic, the Cunard Company is still building, or, in other words, is still applying the lessons of the past for the advantage of the future. The "Gallia" does not stand alone ; for the steamers " Wakus" and ** Mastiff" are just about to be launched as additions to the Compan/s mail line running between Gla^fow and Bel^isL The well-known and popular passenger steamers of the Atlantic i line, includii^ the "Russia" {which differs from the rest in being a non-emigrant steamer, that is, in not carrying steerage passengers), the " Bothnia," the " Scythia, the " Abyssinia," and the " Algeria," \ have all undergone complete examination in dock during the winter, I and have been fitted with additional accommodation and with other improvements to meet the expected increase of traffic of the present year. In addition to this preparation of the fleet, special arrangements have been made for the transmission of baggage to Paris. Passengers ffom America by the Cunard line may have their baggage passed free, by steamers bebnging to the same Company, from Liveipod to Havre; and from thence by raO to Paris, without any custmns examination until Paris is reached. Those who desire to make cmly a diort stay in Ei^^and will be aUe in this way to send forward the bulk of their bo^Egage to await their arrival ; and there caja be no doubt that the power to do this will be greatly appreciated by travellers. ! i 28 REDUCTION RATIO 18:1 CO b 3 3 01 cr Too Is in ^ •——J (J1< CTtX OOM VD O cn 3 o > I? go ^< OOM VO o 3 3 > DO 0)0 o m (D O ^ o o X N -< 8 3 3 e 3 3 8 \^ P p i i ABCKFGHUIOMNOtXJOSTUwnn itcinwiiimiiiiiwiiiiwuwigMSt'WO ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 2.0 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ zhiiklmno 1234567 abcctefgh^klmnogqrstuvwxyz ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghiiklmnqpqrstuvwxyz 2.5 mm 1234567Bd0 o D ^ ni n is? 3) ;5 -L I ^ O m "CO m »! 31 O g \ ^^^^ i 3 b 3 3 IS §1 Is si OOM 8 ro ui 3 3 > CD a,0 o m O) CD o fl X < X -< EiTgat JUail ^Umt PROMENADE DECK =a j — ■ 1^ ram [Diura CD)ffl|[D|(D(CD|ai oolooiooj^Aloo J \Q o IP oloo I xiQ o lo Qj\.- [— 1 nSlqI V OQlOd V oo|oo1 >.v TO W>>u/ S9 9©a©9*©*& 9 ssssaa SAL O ON e » 9 a as 9 »e s a § 8 i »»» • 8 I..i '••e99@9#$@® oo^tf 9#t SPAR DECK. MAIN DECK. REDUCTION RATIO 16:1 CO b 3 O > 3 -^-< oorsi O (a) 3 3 O >> — o Is N C/) 00 M ^3 3 > Q) O o m — H -1- OQ X ^ o o c CO < H N X -< i i o 3 3 8 3 3 |£ Is i 2.0 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPORSTUVWXYZ abcdetthiiklmnoMfSluvanyz 1234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghiiklmnopqrstuvwnwz 1234567890 It o o ■o m "o O Ll "o 3 ^ -L > C b) > O ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghi i kl mnopqrstuvwxyz 2.5 mm i2a4567B%) 6^ 01 3 3 0) I? |i •< TO OOM b 3 3 0) Is I o aix oorsi 8 ui 3 3 > GD Q, O o m (DO opS° X »< N 2? l^irjiai JUit ^temtt JL le Ii I o 12t -lij — iiy Otpoto' -m — (•Ml PROMENADE DECK. : W CD IDffl ffllfflTmlD] fflfflfflO] Rovn- f51'~l L- Ul lU=i /feU^J g 9 d » o ® 9 9 i tiittM- (B© 9 ©@ ©09® ©0® ®9 S A 1. O ON r SPAR DECK MAIN DECK. dntUB StapeftC! M6.QuMtlb!tina9i :. E^gai Jkit ^Umtt PROMENADE DECK. THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP COMPANY. CO >* H 00 O ^ Q <: 00 VO I r» VO 00 M C5 55 (—1 U o u w H CO > e -< < o < a, Ck4 > Pi o 0! Z U o ug < ?> s O H C/3 CA > O T 6 - <51 o • I c " c > M > M > M to I N ON W > M .1. O I IE 5 S IT^c" to S to oo I O ' I O I 1-1 ^ M - 2 p.5 " O 4) .5 Sot ■•en OS H > u < (U 'O 'T "TS ^ tj. to •g « 2- i I !n O I ir> 11 w I O ' ^ ' 00^ to to o to ov o VO 00^ to to M 00 00 o vr> to 00 CO »o tl VO NO O «o Ov VO «^ f« w Q Hi 00 VO dv to to 00 r>. t» VO to Ov tT 00 M N to VO I* to to o M 00 v£r m OV •h to to Ov to VO VO oo_ to VO VO Cv O VO N to to O U PC t4 OV OV 00 to 00 to to o to 00 M «^ to to to M VO VO 00 to to VO* to vd* to Ov O VO to ocT 00 to VO o cv to O 00 VO M O O O to to 00 o to to M to t« to VO VO to to to ov to to •<1- o to to *^ to to VO to ov to VO cv M o to M ov VO 00 t-H 00 vo" to vd* 00 O Ov vd" 00 o rt-o 5 2 o t-l V t> c4 3 5 to I 00 IH . I M 00 to r--. I 00 to 00 to I 00 VO I to 00 I VO 00 29 FLEET OF STEAM SHIPS, OCEAN SERVICE. ABYSSINIA. KEDAR. ALEPPO. MALTA. ALGERIA. MARATHON. ALPHA. MOROCCO. ATLAS. NANTES. BALBEC. OLYMPUS. BATAVIA. PALMYRA. BETA. PARTHIA. BOTHNIA. RUSSIA. BREST. SAMARIA. BRITISH QUEEN. SARAGOSSA. CHERBOURG. SCYTHIA. CHINA. SIBERIA. DELTA. SIDON. DEMERARA. TARIFA. GALLIA. TRINIDAD. HECLA. CHANNEL SERVICE. BEAR. BUFFALO. CAMEL. JACKAL. LLAMA. MASTIFF. OWL. 30 PENGUIN. RACOON. RAVEN. SATELLITE. WALRUS. WASP. Notice to Passengers READING ROOM, &c, AT THE CuNARD WEST END Office, LONDON. IN ADDITION 10 THE COMPANv's CENTR-A-t. LONDON OBTIOE, 6, ST. HELEN'S PLACE, BISHOPSGATE STREET, A WEST END OFFICE HAS BEEH OPENED AT 28, PALL MALL LONDON, Where ^issengers can obtain aH information desiraUe for Toiiristi staying in the Metropolis, and where they can enjoy, FREE OF CHARGE. Tiie advantages of a Reading Room, Smoking Room, &c Tki Rmdh^ Roam is st^^ud with ike prmc^ BRITISH, AMERICAN, AND CONTINENTAL NEWSPAPERS AND JOURNALS. 31 NOTICE, With the view of diminishing the chances <^ Collision, the Steamers of this Line take a ^>ectfied course for all seasons c£ ibe year. On the Outwaid Passage from Queenstown to New York or Boston, Grossing the Meridian of 50P at 43^ Lat, or nodiii^ to tiie Noidi of 4$/* On the Homeward Passage, crossing the Meridian <^ 50P at 42° I^t.. or nodiiiig to the North of 42^. LIVERPOOL, l^/ci Queenstown, and NEW YORK & BOSTON Fleet of Steam Ships Abyssinia. China. Marathon. Aleppo. Demerara. Morocco. Algeria. Qailia. Olympus. Atlas. Hecla. Palmyra. Batavia. Kedar. Parthia. Bothnia. Malta. Russia. Samaria. Saragossa. Scythia. Siberia. Sidon. Tarifa. Trinidad. Bvery Sabmlay for H£WTOM(a.^)& every Thursday for BOST^^^ SAN FRANCISCO, CHINA, JAPAN, INDIA, NEW ZEALAND, AND AUSTRALIA, BY PACIFIC RAILWAY AND MAIL STEAMERS, ^ iQmtiiuudm next pagt. BlITIS Shewini TRACK CHART O F TH £ H AMERICAN ROML MAIL STEAM FACME' CUNARD LINE, the Routes taken to and from America by the Company^ Steamers. COMPANY. U N O A V A a A V atico* i Quebej Montrei BB-UxswicK hip^^ ^^C.Bmim\ Great Bapk GITI.F Mluhnanl.s. MthOkcn 20 Win Lat 50 ±7M 30 ■■ ■■ 4917 fO .. .. 46.44^ Meridian 40 West inLctt.^x < 6N. 30 .. .. fff.S/ XX, .. .. - 20 BvmBBStiuttndeavourto Sua • Bvm San^MmApassmyMntiuicet on Grmt Orde to Cf^n/siUon of in 4030S: Steer for Of Bfsi Um of 4-5KoHh and nO Weftt thence A » i^NandSOWest from thti ice en- - ' " ■ ..... dfm/mirtosteerin Greal Cirdc [J7TDI OUTWARD OurwAKD. The Oreat Cirdeervsst. f llommwAHo,The Great CtrAex rosses ''J^^J^ ^^^^ HOMEWARD. *CRace \ FlemUk Cap ■JiUin s »lei/i/f liuixjireirau Sauibro of Ya^esledi/e^^^^CBnMZillf ^^Y*^ Island MASS A'.*' n'.Jnn Seal I* ^"'"^SxW '^*^ Georges Sh04a ..-Cr:;^^ ^"yfintucheli We irYor FEmWYWAMiAiJ San^^ibok ■Jfay VIK(.I.N sroi i CAIM)1 %^ C. Matte I us fft"" Mil'* OUTWARD ' HOMEWARD c: V liinnjr . '•Yoni Fastnato ci^rosiiion by i ireat OnielfSlgMUes thence o Sant^ Book 1086 MUs Total 27afMat8. Fhrni Sandy- llaok to L Vi'FoiSiUim. imHOes thence tofastnet ijf^ Great Circle 1730iBles Total 2m Miles. ^ySfMctUUi IHMISTRAHULL CRnistene smalls Jjund\l i O pO'TO R tj C5 SPAIN Lisbozi J50 I o FARES From Liverpool or Queknstoww to New York or Boston. Per Steamers Carrying Steerage Pawengeri. Per Steamers Carrying no StMrage Passengerf CABIN...IS GUINEAS, 17 GUINEAS, AND CHIEF CABIN SECOND CABIN.. CHIEF CABIN, RBTORN TICKET ... JQ^ dvmlakU forl2 Months. St GUINEAS. According to Accommodation. CABIN. RETURN TICKET ... 30 GUINEAS. Available for 12 Months. SSBXRJklBtK,&ai0»Jcmmef £6 6t. » v u w CHUJXRBN. fe OUkt, between 2 and 12 Years, Half Fare ; in Steerage, between i and 8 Years. HaU v»^««M, » p^^^ ^ INFANTS under 12 Months, £l is. Passengers Booked to and from all parts of Europe and America at Lowest Rates, By steamers Not Carrying Steerage. By Steamers Carrying Steerage. FIRST CLASS gijoGold. FIRST CLASS ... •toandiwoGoM; SECOND CLASS WoGoM. Aeetrimg to Aeammudatim. Rvtum Tickets (avmilable for 12 months), i o per cent, discount. Steerage at Lowest Rates. CHILDREN IN CABIN, BETWEEN 2 AND 12 YEARS OF AGE, HALF FARE. TICKETS TO PARIS $16 GOLD ADDITIOMAIi. PASSENGERS BOOKED TO AND FROM ALL PARTS OF EUROPE AT LOWEST RATES. DOGS not taken on any terms. MTTo fUevent disappointment or difficulty* Faaaengen are remeetfully infonned that Packages of Modiandisewfflnot be alkrwedto be shipped as Luggage, or with their Luggage. All Cabin Passengers are allowed twenty cubic feet of Personal Luggage free of frwigilt, bat «h« AigivBto do nok guarantee to reserve room for more than that quantity ; and Passengers will be charged tt^ht on thoir PwnMmal lAggago wlien i( sxceeds half-a-ton measurement. The Passengers and Goods for New York are intended to be landed at Jersey City, within the jurisdiction of the Custom-house of New York. Goods for Chicago and the West are taken nb Boston at Through Rates. Freight to America payable either in Liverpool or America, at the current rate of Exchange for Bankers' Bills on the date of Steamer's arrival. All risks of river cnft, Hghteraee, mad fre to be borne by Shippers. Goods will Qoly be taken subject to the clauses and conditkios printed in the Bills of Lading of thisUne. Letters for Consignees, or otben, nast bms through the Post-office. None will be reeoved at the Office of the Agents. Parcels will be received at the OfTices of the Liverpool, New York, and Boston Agents, until Six o'clock on the Evenings previous to sailing. Drafts issued on New York, Boston, and Liver- pool, for sums not exceeding ;^io, free of charge. The Attention of Shippers and Passengers is specially directed to the following f ^ T^Mm from the Merdiant Shipping Act, 1878. Sacnon J3.— if any person sends, or attenpts to send by, or attempts to cany in any viosd any dangeroos goo is, (.«., Aquafortis, Vitiid, Naphtha, Benzine, Gunpowder, Lucifer Matches, mtco-Glycerine, Petroleum, or any other goods of a dangerous nature, without distinctly marking their nature on the outside rf the pa^age^ and giving written notice of the nature of such goods, at or before the time of sending the »ame to be shipped, or taking the same on board, he shall for every such offence incur a penalty not exceeding /loo. Section 24, If any person knowipgly sends, or attempts to send by, or carries, or attempts to carry in any vessel any dangerous goods, or goods of a dangerous nature, under a false description, or falsely describes the tender or carrier thereof, he shall incur a penalty not exceeding j^soo. By the 26th section the master or owner is empowered to throw dangerous goods overboard. Careo likely to take Fire, or cauao daaugo to other Goods, will therefore not knowingly 00 received : and Shippois of mehirffiM liaUo for all eonaoqumeos, aad wiU alaobe proMovloAM iKwMnt/tm. tS" Apply at the Companv's Office, New York, to Chari.es G. Francklvt.. Agent ; at the Companya Office, Boston, to James Alexander, Agent; in Halifax, to William Cunard; in Havre, to Burns ft ItAC IVSB, 8i> Quai d'Orleans ; in Paris, to Burns & Mac Iver, 12, Place de la Bourse ; in London, to WIXUUN CUNARD, 38, PaU Mail. S.W., and 6. St. Helen's Place, Bishopsgate Street, E.G. ; inMsa- diester, at 77A, Market Street ; ia Dundee, to G. & I. BuKlis, 11. Pauniue Street ; in Gla^ow. to G. 1^ JL BURNS, 267, Argyle Street ; iaWttMl. to A. O. S. WCmjuocH ft Son ; to Qnea ' IX ft C MUr. Ivsb; or to D. & C. JVIAC IVER, 1878. F 8, Water Street, LIVERPOOL 35 THr Steamers of this Line are of the Largest Class, Fullr^owered and Very Fast. The Passenger Aceommodatkm is good, and each Vessel carries a Stewardess. LIVERPOOL /h. mediterranean, . VIB8T-0I.ASS SCBEW flOBAX-SHIPS. ALEPPO ATLAS BALBEC BREST BRITISH QUEEN CHERBOURG DEMERARA HECLA KEDAR MALTA MARATHON MOROCCO NANTES OLYMPUS PALMYRA SAMARIA SARAGOSSA SIBERIA SIDON TARIFA TRINIDAD ITALIAN, SICILIAN AND ADRIATIC LINES. Steaineii Rqiplaily fix GIBRALTAR, GENOA, LEGHORN, NAPLES, PALERMO, MESSINA, CATANIA, PATRAS, CORFU, BARI, ANCONA, TRIESTE and VENICE, and frequently proceeding to ALEXANDRIA. LEVANT LINE. Stbamkks RnsuuuM.Y rox QlBRAtJAR, UALTA, SYRA, SUYRNA, CONSTANTINOPLE. AND (sometimes) SUUNA. TAKIHO CARGO AT THROUCH RATIS TO PiiUEUS^ YOLO, DEDE-AGATCH, SALONICA, TREBIZONDE, VARNA, BURGOS, BATOUM SAMSOUK. POTI, KUSIENDJIE, GAUTZ, AND IBRAIL 34 TRACK CHART OF LIVERPOOL TO THE MEDITERRANEAN FARES FROM LIVERPOOL), INCLUDING PROVISIONS, BUT WITHOUT WINES OR UQUORS. WHICH CAH BE OBTAINED ON BOARD. To GIBRALTAR ... £8 To CORFU ...£20 GENOA ••• ••• • 13 13 „ ANCONA ... 21 „ LEGHORN... • • • ... 14 14 'FRI£S'r£ •■• ... 21 NAPLES ... 1515 If BSALnrA «*• ... IS „ PALERMO (7'ta Italy) ... 16 16 If SYR A . . . ~. IS „ MESSINA (via Italy) ... ZKlKmh.(viaLltaly\ ... ... 17 17 „ SMYRNA ... IS ... 17 17 „ CONSTANTINOPLE ... ... ao BARI ••• ••• ••• ... x8 18 „ MALTA aadbMk ... 2Z ^ PATRAS ... 20 Voyage Out and Home, £40. CHILDREN OVER 2 AND UNDER 12 YEARS OF AGE HALF FARE. The Passage-money as above is exclusive of beer, wines, and spirits ; and in the event of quarantine, passengers will be maintained on board at the rate of 5s. per day. PASSENGERS.— Tickets are granted for the voyage out and home, by any one of the above routes, for ^40 each passenger, available for four months, entitling the holder to stop at two ports on the route, and to continue the voyage by succeeding steamors. Malta and Gilnaltar are generally the only ports at which the steamers call on the passage home. The voyage out and home usually occupies from seven to eight weeks. BAGGAGE. — ^First-class passengers are allowed 20 cubic feet of personal baggage. One shilling per cubic foot will be charged on all above that quantity. Names and destina- tion to be distinctly marked on the packages ; and passengers are requested to reduce to the smallest quantity such indispensable articles as they may require to have in the cabins, in which no heavy baggage, trunks, boxes, or portmanteaus are jdlowed. The Company not to be held liable for any damage to or loss of baggage, nor for unavddaUe ddays, accidents, fire, steam, or sea risk q they are cancelled. No allowance will be made for any Ticket lost, mislaid, or not used. TiMIti aUHt be procured b^ore roinK on board the Steamers. Cabin Berths secured at the Steam- Packet Offices in GlaMw and Londonderry. Cabin Tickets sold at the Railway Stations at Glasgow and Paisley. ServanU in Cabin i>a» fuU Kre ; Children above 3 years and nnder I2 years of aj^e pa* M aadi is Cabi> aad n. h Ttwiiii W« Balf M^wa rickets issued. "* •^ww Passengers must take charge of * "Iff:! IT llil h mwilBlilllt h Ml ■■■ lii Hi Passengers holding Through ^ -''Ttl I r I lljlllll itll J«WM|| ^iSMSm%ll«K^l^klM to remain in Londonderry over a night " HORSES. CAiUOAGES, LIVE STOCK, and QX3)0IO&, at* notiMi SUm< MbiMt to «• "~ maA Conditions printed in the Bills of Lading of this Line. " """fl"* ■» ^loodB are Booked Through to or from Glasgow or Greenock and Oaacb, If nniiMlha. flmn aai eifeir VUk ■for th ■" Western Stations. ' ^ Flue Carried at Moderate Through Rates from all the Principal Markets in the North of Ireland to Greenock and Glum*. cattle Camed at very Low 1 hrougii Rates between Londonderry and Carlisle, via Greenock or via Glasgow. ^»junpowderwill not be earned by these Vessels on any Terms, and Aquafortis. Vitriol, and other basaideaa artklM m Sg5^^g;gg?jr- *P*''?**H .^Sen«^^^^ II I ■l lll I ll an wKifO occMi — by or to the same. Hi t I .III— -^ ^.A.... ^.,..^-;— t:.^..ij ^.-^.^ ^ Apply to D. LIVINGSTOXE, LONDONDERRY; to WILLIAM SINCLAIR. GREENOCK: to (i. & J. BURNS, DUNDEE; to C, AIAC IVER & CO., i, Rumford Street, UVfiRPOOL; « tO G. & J. BURNS. 267, Argyle Street, GLASGOW. ^ t. 1878 38 SCOTLAND AND IRELAND, ROYAL MAIL LINE. DAILY SERVICE BETWEEN GLASGOW & BELFAST Via GREENOCK (Prince's Pier), ifc cmnectim with the Glasgow and South- Western and other Railw^s, RACOON, CAMEL, LLAMA, BUFFALO, PENGUIN, WASP, MASTIFF, WALRUS, AR* A»OINTED BY HER MAJBSTTS POSTMASTER-GENERAL TO SAIL (Unless prevented by unforeseen d lcniMtt nci as undernoted :— FROM GLASGOW. EVERY DAV (Sunday excepted) by Steamer punctually at 5 p.m. in Summer, and 3 p.m. in Winter, and by Train from St. Enoch's Station, Glasgow, at 8 p.m., Paisley (by pre- oedbg Tkain) at 7-14 p.m., to join the Vessel MilfaiC fiom Prince^ (kteoodk, at 8-45 P.M. Ar Tktmigk Bo^ktrng Cotuueiimtv>ak Dobum, LomxmDBmKT, Poktrusb, BDDntntoi, ftc, tec, tee Time TabUt. FROM BELFAST. EVERY EVENING (Sunday excepted) at 8 P.M., to connect with Train leaving Prince's Pier Greenock, at 4-43 A.M., due in Paisley at 5-15 A.M., and in Glasgow at 5-30 A.M. (No Tim fiOK Greenock to Glasgow on Sundays.) OltASOOW, VAX8LET, OB (Inclvdino Steward's Fbb). CABIN- AND FIRST CLASS, SINGLE JOURNEY, 12s. 6d. STEERAGE AND THIRD CLASS. SINGLE JOURNEY RETURN, 20s. PASSENGERS are BOOKED THROUGH behveen GLASGOW, PAtSLBY, mr GRBBNOCK, and tk* Principal Railway Stations in IRELAND ; also /rmm BELFAST it tk* frimeipml i gwW w y Stahtm M SCOTLAND and tk€ NORTH OF ENGLAND. PASSENGERS. All RETURN TICKETS are available for One Calendar Month, but are NOT TRANSFERABLE. H not used within the prescribed period they are cancelled. No allowance will be made for any Ticket lost, mislaid, or not used. The Fares are exclusive of Conveyance of Passengm, or their Luggra^e, between the RaiUvay Termint in blasgow or Belfast, and the Royal Mail Steamers, but Passengers' Luggage is transferred to and from the Steamers and 1 rains »t Prince's Pier, Greenock, free of charge. l o -i The North and East of Scotland ThrouRh Fares include conveyance between Glasgow and Greenock by Kailway. Passengers holding Through Tickets for or from interior Irish Stations HUt ptOOaad fcom BolOMt M the day Oi arriv.il there, except on Sunday, when they may remain over until Monday. . . <■ i TickeU most be pncnrad befera joing on board the Steamers. Cabin BflcOs MOmd at ttwStMlls-Fa«t O"0"> »• Glasgow and B«l&st Servants ia Cabin pay full fare. Local fare of children above t Teanaadander ityeanef ag^ is- 6d. each in cabin, and 2j. in Steerage. No Half-Return Tickets issued. Londonderry Tickets are available f»a Coleraine or Omagh. _ , u u j PaiMBgm most take charge of their Luggage, as the Ship is not responsible in any way for its safety unless booked. GOODS AND LIVE STOCK. DAILY COMMUNICATION with Stations on every Railway in Scotl ind, the North of England, and the North cf Ireland, and the utmost despatch ensured by the Caledonian, North British, and Glasgow and South- Western Routes, i/ja GREENOCK or GLASGOl^. Wagons run alongside Steamers at East India Whar^ and Albwt Harbour, Oreenoclc. Through Rates to and from Belfast to the Principal Railway Stations in Scotland, and New^stle Gatesh^d. Shields, Durham and other Stations on the North-Eastem Railway, and between Glasgow or Greenock and the maapU Railway Stations in Ireland. . , »t , rx , j i .tr-io....... Moderate Through Rates for FLAX from the Markets in the North of Ireland to Greenock and Glasgow. GOODS taken at Through Rates between Belfast and Hamburgh, Haarburg, htettin, Copenhagen, fahent, UmOLOK, Lille, Antwerp, and Rotterdam, via Leith ; Rotterdam, via Grangemouth ; and Bordeaux and Havre, wa Jf^SSf^n... in order to preveat Od^rbr dietr beiag aeat bj any oth« Route, Goods should be addressed Per Messrs. Bma* '*"hORSES, CARRIAGES, LIVE STOCK AND GOODS, are received and shipped salgect to the Conditions printed in the Bills of Lading of this Line. ^ NO LIVE STOCK Carried by thi SATURDAY EVENING STEAMERS^^ Gunpowder will not be carried by tbcM veHels «■ aajT tttmM, aaA A^aatetl^ VltXSOt, can only be taken by special agreement For further particulars, apply in DUNDEE to G. & J. HUi^NS.ii.Panmure Street SINCLAIR, Excise Bnil^n: in BELFAST to A. G. S. MCCULLOCH * SON. oc CHARLBT ft MALCOLM Donegall Quay; in LTVERTOOL to C. MAC IVER ft Ca, I. Rumfoi » w. -r— . - — , -, Rumford Street; or to O. « J. BURNS, 267, Argyle Street, GLASGOW. 39 ENGUND AND SCOTLAND. OWL, EAVEN. PENGUIN, TIWM or O^er fint-class Steamers sail regularly (almost DAILY), with Goods and Passengers, between CALLING AT GREENOCK. Passet^^s may Join the Steamer at Greenock by Caledonian Railway trains from Glasgow. Horses, Carriages, Live Stock, and Goods are Received and Shipped solgect to the Clauses and Conditions printed on the Bills of Lading of this Line. Passengers must take charge of their own i^uggage, as the Ship is not wpwwfcto IB way for hs ssAety. The Contents of Boxes and Packiges eootatid&g Liqoidt must 1» spedied in the Shipping Note before shipment. Gunpowder, Aquafortis, Vitriol, Petroleum, Paraffine, Naphtha, Shale, or any other Dangenm* Oils or Spirits, will not be carried by these Vesse li on any terms. The Senders, Consignees, and Owners of dangerous articles aKB raSfNMMible under all Tirrr*"***"*^* for damage occasioned by or to the same. PARESr-CABIN (st'eSfi»ee) 12s. 6d.: RETFM.JGl; STEEEAGE, 6s. Servants in Cabin ^ay full fare ; Children above z years and under 12 years of age ptiy^.ki. each mCaMn and y.mSieerttge. No Hmlf Sdmm Tickets isstud. Rsnntir Tickbts are available for One Calendar Month, by Owl, Raven, PENomN, or Princess Rotal and are Not Transferable. If not used within the psescnbed poiod they arc cancelled. No allowance made for Tickets lost, mislaid, w not used. G. & J. BURNS, 867, Argyle Street, Glasgow; and ii, Panmure Street, Dunobb. C MAC IVER & CO, I, RoMFoao Strbet, LnrsKvooi.; and 77A, Mabicbt Stkbbt, IIamcrbstkb. OFFICES OF THE BRIDGEWATER NAVIGATION CO., LIMITED, AND OLD QUAY COMPANY, I, Meal Street and Water Street, Mancuestbb. WILLIAM SINCLAIR. Eic» BmuiiHO^ Gbbbmock. Jem, I. 1^ 40 Under special airangement with the Postmaster-General, the Pursers upon the Transatlantic Steam Ships of the Cunard Line are supplied with TELEGRAPH MESSAGE FORMS, and are authorized to take charge of Tel^iams (properly prepaid by means of British Telegraph Stamps, which can also be obtained fiom the Pursers) addressed by Passengers to places in the United Kingdom. All such Telegrams entrusted by P^asengers to the Purser will be sent off to the Postal Telegraph Office at the first port of arrival in the United Kingdom, for transmission to destination forthwth. i The charge for the transmission ''X^ ••• SHSRR.Y ]iCA.DErRIA • • • • ••• CHARTREUSE (Liqueur) ... UQUEUR GINGER BRANDY (Bret's ''Negro-Hbad'^ ... SPIRITS. BRANDY WHISKY (Dublin) ( The famous brands of John Jameson &» Son, Wm. Jamtcon A» Cfk, Sir Jo}m and George Hoe 6f Co,) WHISKY (Scotch) HOT^IjANDS ««• . ^^LD X'C)^'^ ••• ••• «•» •mm 7 6 4 O 6 3 5 S S 6 4 4 7 o 6 o o o o o o 6 3 2 3 3 3 6 o o o o 5 o Barn*. & d. 3 o 2 6 I'ower 6* 2 6 4 o 3 o & d. o 6 o 6 o 6 o 6 o 6 Ale, 6d. Porter, 6d. Soda Water, 6d. Ginger Ale, 6d. Lemonade, 6d. English Seltzer, 6d. German Seltzer^ is. Congress Water, is. Kali Potass, 6d. Sarsaparilla, 6d. ALL, EXCEPT WIN ES, TO BE PAID F OR ON DELIVERY. The Steward is directed to Present and Collect the Wine Bills against Passeii|NBn on the day pievious to the Ship's Arrival. 43 RULES AND REGUUTIONS. /I bmtg obvious thai, on a (Passage of some days' duration, the comfort of a numerous body of (PjiSSEJ>fGEpast 9. 12. — Luncheon to be on the Table from 12 to i o'clock. 13. — The before-dinner Bell to be rung at Half-past 3 — Dinner to be on the Tal^ at 4 — the Cloths to be removed the instant it is over. I4< — ^Tea to be on the Table at Half-past 7. 15. — Supper, if required and ordered, to be before 10 o'dock. 16. — Lights to be put out in the Saloons at Half-past 1 1, and in the State-rooms at 12. 17. — As the labour of the Servants must be very great and the space required for a larger number absolutdy preventing an increase, the Passengers are requested to spare them as much as possible between the Meal Hours, and particularly precedii^ Dinner. 18. — ^No Passenger is allowed to change his State-room or Berth without the knowledge of the Purser; and it is understood that the Passage Tickets are to be given up to him before the termination of the Voyage. Liverpool, July 4, 1840. 45 Instructions Regarding the Ordinary and Colour- Vision of Lqoli-Out Men. CUNARD LINE. Ittfi^ ^ I'orfh |mf|ic8tt Jogal Jail ^Um lackl i To Captain R.M.S. I?ear Sir, Office, 8, Water Street, Lwerpool, 22nd March, 1876, Annexed is a Z^tUr addressed to the Smgwm af your Sh^. VoM wiU ai once perceive tlie importance of being assured of the eapam^ of yomr Look-onis, esfteciaUy at Night; and, besides taking the o^itmm of the Surgeon 1^ the question, wUl you kindly ingress f^m your Officers that grave responsibility rests with them in Mr se&tOon of men for a duty which is of paramount importance. Yours truly. D. & C- Mac Iyer. 46 Instructions Re^ardin^ the Ordinary and Goiour- Vision of Look-Out Men. CU NARD LIN E. |riftsli ^ |^0rf!t Jiwrnam ^ogiil ^^ttl |j^am |wkel ft" OJice, 8, Water Street, Liverpool, 22nd March, 18^6, To THE Surgeon-, R.M.S. JDear Sir, As it is of the greater importance that a tkorou^y efficient Look-out should be always kept, we have to request that upon the day of muster you will kindly pay particidar attention to the Eyesight of the Men who are told off as Looh-outs; so as ^ ascertain whether these Men have sufficiently good Vision to enable them to see with natural acuteness both by daylight and in the evening, and also readily to dis- tinguish the colours of ^ different liglUs displayed by Ships at night, so that they may report quickly and accurately, and may otherwise fulfil the duties of a thoroughly efficient Look-out. In tJie event of your hamng any doubt as to ^ possession of the necessary qualifications by any of the men, will you please to report your opisdon to the Captain, so that tJtese men may not be employed upon a duty for which in the exercise of your professional discretion, you consider them unfit. Yours truly, . D. & C- Mag Iyer. 47 THE MEDITERRANEAN. 'Thb wyi^, w1m» tails from the daric waters of the restless Atlantic into the deep blue Mediterranean, notices at sunset a rich purple haze, which rises apparently from the sur- face of that fair inland sea, and drapes the hills and vales along the beauti- ful shore with a glory that fills the heart of the beholder with unutter- able gladness. The distant snow- covered peaks of old Granada, clad in the same bright robe, seem by their regal presence to impose silence on those whom their majestic beauty has blessed with a momentary poetic in- spiration which defies all power of tongue or pen. It touches nothing which it does not adorn, and the commonest objects are transmuted by its magic into fairy shapes which abide ever after in the memory. Under its softening influence the dingy sail of a fisherman's boat becomes almost as beautiful an object to the sight as the ruins of tiie tem- ple which crowns the height of Cape Colonna. But when he approadies nearer to that which had seemed so charming in its twilight robes, his poetic sense is somewhat interfered with, and the shore, though it may still be very beautiful, lacks the super- nal glory imparted to it by dis- tance." THE "fair inland sea," the charms of which have insfMred so many descriptions worthy of them, and whose every bay and cape and point and headland are intwined with associations which recall everything that is exquisite in art, or famous in history, or glorious in heroism, forms one of the great centres of attraction to travellers from beyond the Atlantic; and their requirements with regard to it are matters for which the Cunard Company have made H 49 THE MEDITERRANEAN. special and careM prov^oii. The Mediterran^ui b soi^lit by Ameri-- can and £i^[Uah vtsitm under the influence of very different reasons ; by many who are in quest of health* by many who are in quest of recreation, and by many who oideavour to combine these objects. The first-named, for reasons which will be given hereafter, are generally advised to remain in the Western Riviera, while the two remaining classes wander from place to place, as circumstances may direct or chance may guide them. On the actual shore-line they have the attractions of Gibraltar, Barcelona, Marseilles, Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Alexandria, Algiers, and Oran, besides a multitude of smaller ports. The sea is studded with islands, the beauties of which a lifetime could scarcely exhaust; and the cities of Italy and Greece, the Nile and the Pyramids^ and Jerusalem itself, are all within easy distances of the coast Geography teUs us that die Mediterranean Sea is uiduded within 45^ and 30*^ of north latitude, and between 5^ west and 36® of east longitude. Its extreme length, from Gibraltar to Syria, is 2200 miles. Its breadth at the narrowest part, from Sicily to Afifica, is 79 miles; at the broadest part, from Africa to the head of the Adriatic, 1200 miles. It is bordered on its northern shores, from Gibraltar to Constantinople, by mountains which form the southern boundary of Europe, and on the southern shores partly by the mountain range of Atlas, and partly by the great deserts of the continent of Africa. The islands are the summits of the highest peaks of what may be described as a submarine range of mountains, which roughly divides the sea into a northern and a southern basin, each of great depth. At the Straits of Gibraltar the channel is comparatively shallow, so that there is a barrier between the deeper parts of the Mediterranean and those of the Atlantii^ and the. interchange of currents is limited to the supeifidal waters of cadi. Hence die cold undertow which the Atlantic icoeiwi fiom the Polar seas does not enter the Mediterranean, and its watera^ evoi didr extremest depths, preserve at all seasons a somewhat elevated temperature. The climate of the shores is greatly dependent upon the prevailing winds, and is further modi- fied in many localities by the direction of the shelter which is afiforded by the neighbouring mountains. The sea as a whole is 50 THE MEDITERRANEAN exposed to wind coming from the north, which, in the winter sea- son, when frost prevails in Norway, Sweden, the Baltic and Polar regions, brings cold weather even to its southern shores; and also to a south-west equatorial or to a south-east Sahara wind, either ol which, in the course in exchai^ for it At hotels, this ooOe^on of baggage is one of tiie recognised businesses of the house, and the visitor has only to surrender his cheques at Ae bar, or, as it is there called, the "office," in order to find his baggage safely in his bedroom. On leaving Chicago, our traveller would instruct the hotel people to express his baggage to San Francisco, and he would again pay and receive a cheque. On reaching San Francisco, he would surrender both his cheques, and would receive both his packages, the one sent from Chicago, and the one sent through from New York ; while, in the event of any chance delay of a few hours, he would fiadl back upon his hand- bag, and would be able to await with tranquillity the arrival of the bulk of his bekmgings. This system of diecking baggage is by no means without its advantages; although it has not attained the absolute peifection 59 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. which is sometmies ascribed to it. It is very pleasant to be free fiora all care about bagg^ at a lailway statioii, eitfaer in depart- ii^ or arriving, and it is likewise {feasant to feel tolerably sure of picking up your belmigings at the predse place where they will be wanted. On the other side of the question, the system is an expen- «ve one ; and the express charges add very considerably to the cost of travelling. If the foresight of the traveller has been imperfect, and if he has by chance put into the San Francisco trunk some- thing he will want at Chicago, it is disagreeable to know that he must go or send his cheque to San Francisco before his desires can be satisfied. Again, the delay in obtaining baggage is often provoking, and should be guarded against by a full devetopment of the hand-bag system, which is, indeed, the natural and necessary si^iplefflent of dieddng. The witter was once ccHnpelled to wait amtl midnight for his baggage, althoc^h he had reached his hotel at six fl^ciodt ; and, being then inexperienced in the ways of American travel, his hand-bag did not enable him to go to bed in j comfort. Lastly, the pecuniary liability of the Express Companies, \ for loss or damage, is limited to loo dollars for a package ; and the knowledge or suspicion that any package contained property much in excess of this value might seriously handicap the chances j of its safe arrival at the dep6t to which it was consigned. Notwithstanding all this, if the travdler has a compact and well-fitted lumd-bag^ if his heavier pacb^^es are few in number (eadi one, however small, beii^ charged Ibr), and if h» route is deariy hid down befofefaand, the cheque system, in America, is not willioiit its use% and will not feil to save hun from trouble and inoonvemeDoe. It is an unsatisfactory substitute for proper porter- age; but it is, perhaps, the best substitute which the genius and the institutions of the country will allow. In order to use the system upon arrival, it is only necessary, when the Custom House authorities are satisfied, to desire one of the porters at the landing place to procure you baggage cheques for any hotel or other destination in the city ; and, having done this, and paid the chaigiQ, which is usually half-a-dollar a package, there is nothing more to do than to walk a few hundred yaids to die Debmses Street Ferry. The landing place fixm the Omaid 60 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. steamers is not in New York, but in Jersey City, which is separated from New York by die Hudson river, across which huge steam ferries are constantly plying. The fare on these ferries is five cents for each passenger, payable at an office at the entrance to their piers. It is possible to hire a carriage on the Jersey side, and to be driven on to the ferry, and so taken across; but this adds considerably to the expense, and the distance is so short that it is best for any who are not unfit for the exertion to walk. On reaching the other side, and entering New York proper, the traveller will have his choice of various conveyances, namely: hackney carriages, street cars, and stages; and his choice among diese ^ouM be guided pardy by his destination, and partly by his willingness or unwillingness to spend money. The hackney carriages of New York are large and somewhat cumbrous vehicles, generally mounted on high wheels, so that stq»s have to be let down, in* order to give admission to diem. They are mosdy drawn by a pair of horses, and driven by a respectably clothed coachman, who thinks it no part of his duty to carry civility to excess. The fares charged are, to European notions, extortionate; and there is neither any recognised tariff nor any prompt legal redress for over-chaige. Two dollars is the smallest sum for which one of these conveyances can be hired- to go into the next street ; and die passenger who is going to one of the principal hotels may tfiink himself fortunate if he is driven diere for three dollars. This state of things is said to be the result of a coalition among the car proprietors, whose influence prevents die passing of any municipal law for the control of hackney carriages, which, if properly regulated, would be likely to interfere with the exisdng car traffic. There is said to be some prospect of a better arrangement by-and-by ; but it would be premature to reckon upon this until it is actually in operation. Besides the hackney carriages, there will be found in attend- ance at the landing place, or on the other side of the ferry, stages from die principal hotels, for the accommodation of passengers going to diese hotels only. In diese stages die fere is half-a-dollar, widi anodier half-a-dollar fw each package; and, if there is a stage from die hotel to whkh die traveller Is 61 ENGLAND TO AMERICA, bound, the best course open to a stranger is to take advantage of it The alternative is to take a tramway car, and to change fitmi one to another until the point nearest to the destinatkm is reached. The cars run along all the avenues of New YoA except die Fifth ; and the (are is five cents for any distance^ excepting in Ae Fourth Avenue, where it is seven cents. In the FifUi Avenue there are st^^es, small ommboses^ which start from the Windsor Hotd, at the corner of For^-sixdi-street, and go down Broadway. In these die ^ is ten cents, and it is paid into a box inside die stage as soon as die passenger enters. The driver will give change to die amount of two dollars, and the passenger must put " die exact fare into the box. American cities, as a rule, are built in squares, on such a principle that the name of the street ahnost indicates its position; and a stranger should lose no time m procur^ a good map, by' which he may soon master die mediod by which any city is laid out, and its streets are named or numbered. Half-an-hour dius occupied win^ in most cases, make him perfecdy at home, and readily to find his way to any destination. The streets wWch run nordi and soudi are called avenues, and are numbered firem west to ea^ The streets which run east and west are caBed streets, and are numbered from north to south, with the additional help that they are called east and west such a street, according as they are east or west of Fifth Avenue. The excc^ tions are that the long street called Broadway cuts the whole system diagonally from south-east to north-west, intersectii^ bodi streets and avenues , and diat some of die. streets at die nordiem extremity of Broadway retain die names, such as Wafl Street and die like, by which diey were known before die more modem system was introduced. The great hotels of New York and odier large cities are vast <^Wii hnfiett t^ often sumptuous in their fiimiture and fittings, and awady conducted^ on what is called the " American plan," that is to say, on die prindple of an uniform daily payment which covers the use of a bedroom and of the public sitting-rooms, together widi all meals. The only extras are boot-cleaning, for which ten cents must be paid whenever the operation is perfonned, and aU kinds 62 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. of alcoholic, fermented, or crated drinks. Travellers are ofteai warned by printed notices not to leave their boots outside dienr bedroom doors at night, lest they should be stolen ; and the accep- ted custom is to put them on dirty, and to have them cleaned on die feet of die wearer in a room provided for the purpose. The meals are served only at stated times, so diat a traveller cannot procure dinner or breakfast, or any other regulation meal, except widim die Umits of time stated on die bill of fare. At the best hotels die ofdmary charge is five dollars a day for each person, with a dollar and a half extra for a bedroom to v/hkh a bathroom is attached. The latter, for many reasons, must be regarded as a very questionable luxury. There are fairly good hotels at whtdi accommodation may be obtained for three dollars fifty cents; but it is usually desirable to know something about these cheaper houses, from direct personal recommendation, before deciding to go to them. There are also, in the great cities, good hotels upon the so-called " European plan," notably, the Brevoort House, at New York, in which the traveller is charged so much for his bedroom, and for each meal of which partakes. It wouki be invidious, and beyond our province, to mstitute comparisons between rival establishments of eidier kind; but die Windsor Hotel in New York, and die Grand Pacific, in Chicago, must be mentioned as types of American hotels of the highest excellence. The American railway system differs firom die Eng^ in many particulars. The lines are often carried through die streets of villages and towns, and in many instances are only single traclra. Hence it is important, for the avoidance of accidents, that a tram should give warning of its approach, and that it should admit of being brought to rest in a short distance. Each engine, there- fore, carries after dark what is called a head-light, a large lamp so placed as to li^t up die track for a considerable distance in advance, and also a teud bdl. whkh is kept constandy ringing by die motion. The head-light is not only seen by odiers as die train approaches, but it enabks die driver to see any stray catde or odier obstacles upon die track; and every train is equipped with some form of continuous brake, by which it can be pulled up in its own lengdi from anv rate of speed. The brake most commonly used is 63 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. the Wesdnghouse aut beds resemUing those on board a first-dass steamer, so diat neatly all traveOii^ in die Slates can be got tiuoiigfa at n%ht, widiout faSOffnt or k»s of rest The same sleep- mg car is ooci^Med both by kidBes and gentlemoi ; an arrangement wittdi seems a litde odd to those who are unused to it, but which is manifesdy necessary. In some trains there is an hotel car, from which food and drink can be served to the passengers ; and, when this is not the case, arrangements are made for sufficient stop- pages at stations where there are hotels, and where meals are pre- pared to await the arrival of the trains. Notwithstanding this, it is as well to make room in the hand-bag for a sniaU store of biscuits or other refreshment, and for a pocket flask. At most <^ the hotels, and also in the Greets of some of die kuge ddes, diere are offices for the sale ol laihvay tickets; and it 64 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. is most prudent to buy tickets for the Pullman cars a few hours before the train starts. The necessary accommodation will then certainly be provided ; whereas, if the ticket is not asked for until the traveller reaches the depdt, it may often happen that all the berths | are engaged. The times erf departure and arrival of trains, for j die whde Union, are given in an "official railway guide" which may be called the American Bradshaw, and which is, perhaps, not more mysterious than its English prototype. It carries on its cover an important diagram, showing the local time which, in each princi- pal city, corresponds to twelve o'clock at Washington. The general absence of porters in America, and of idlers at \ stations who are ready to do menial work (although in New York this class is represented by a ragged regiment of Irish boys), carries with it a corresponding absence of the demand for backsheesh, trink- geldt pour-boire, which, in some form or other, is so constant a con- comitant of Euippean travel. The stranger will sometimes be at a kiss for anyone from whom he can ask a trifling service, and may occasionally be at a loss for informadon which is important for his giudance ; but he wtll neither be asked for small gratuities nor be expected to offer them, nor be able to do so without offence. An important part of the baggage of every English tourist in America should be the series of excellent guide-books, on the plan of Baedeker's, which may be obtained from Mr. Stanford, at Charing ! Cross ; and which, in well-arranged sections, include the whole of die United States and Canada, and give ample information about '■ routes, hotel charges, and points of interest. The course taken by each traveller will be governed, necessarily, by private and personal consideradoDS ; but the visitors to the States should endeavour to see die three great natural wonders: the Mammoth Cave, near LouisvUle, in Kentucky; the Yosemtte Valley, in California; and | the Falls of Niagara. He shoukl see also Pittsburgh, the Amerkan Birmingham; Washington, the seat of government; Boston, die home of intellectual cultivation and refinement; Baltimore, a city of the aristocratic traditions of the South ; Philadelphia, famous for the Centennial Exhibition of 1876; Cincinnati, the centre of the largest bacon curing industry in the world ; Chicago, arisen in a magnificence, which even yet is not complete, from the ashes of the K 65 ENGLAND TO AMERICA. dinstioiis fire in which it was entombed ; and San Fiandsco^ the future capital of the Pacific States, the emporium of the Pacific com- I merce. He should also lose no opportunity of visiting great manu- ! facturing establishments, of whatever kind ; and in these he will generally find an economy of human labour, and an ingenuity in j the employment of mechanical contrivances, which are not to be ■ equalled in any other country. Lastly, if he is so fortunate as to j have letters of introduction to Americans of position, he should suffer nothing to stand in the way of presenting them. He will be received with an abounding hospitality, and a constant and thought- I fid Idiidiies8» such as in any odier part of the worid are sekkm equalled, and certainly never surpassed. ! i t i 1 66 RIGHT ACROSS: | A FLIGHT FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK. BY W. HEPWORTH DIXON. o SAN FRANCISCO. CITY of the Golden Gate and Grand Hotel, we leave a pilgrim's blessings on thy quays! Cities are not always networks of dull streets, banked by heaps of bricks, and cut by dusty squares, through which you trudge with weary feet and vacant eyes. Some cities are enchanted homes — plays, pastorals, histories, novelets, in stone — in which the streets are avenues of light, the houses palaces of poets, and the shrubberies gardens of the gods. Is not Jerusalem an epic, Stamboul a tragedy, Venice a picture ? Is not Prague an elegy, Damascus a dream, Granada a romance? These cities are the crowns and coronets of the earth. In each a beautiful and striking site combines with stirring and poetic memories to lift the place into a h^her jJane than that of Liverpool and Baltimore, Hambuig and Bordeaux. A time must come when San Fraaciaoo will be dassed with Venice and Stamboul, among cities of die imagi- nation rather than of commerce. Now, she is all for trade— ships 67 RIGHT ACROSS: A FLIGHT FROM and shares, banks, hotels, and factories; and this is good for her at present, since material wealth and progress are essential to her growth in higher things. The noble oaks and venerable cedars in her suburbs find their nutriment in the earth. San Francisco is dowered nature with that of pbysical beau^. which die soul of man most easily tiam^Mtes into lomance. Her people have that quick, meridional temperament, in which the &e and gloom, the grace, ^ ardour, and die gaiety, most readily asnime poetic shapes. Venice was not built by men in search beauty, nor was Stamboul conceived by people wanting to be picturesque. Poor fishermen, needing places of safety for their boats and nets, laid out the Grand Canal; sharp traders, with an eye to hides and tallow, occupied the Golden Horn. The poetry came afterwards unsought; so will it come to the bright city and the hospitable people keeping watch above the Golden Gate. SAN FRANCISCO BAY. El Capitan, the ferry barge, hisses from her moorings out mto the bay — the cheery and abounding bay—just as the winter son peeps over Bushy Nob, near Ahamont Great huOs of ships rise 19 on every side; ships of all eastern nations, Chmese, jfapanese, Rnsstaa, Polynesian, but; most of all, diat Ei^^ nation which has ports on eveiy continent, and ships on every sea. Thousands of gulls aad geese are a lriniming on the waves. A fringe of golden shadow pams over Akatraa and Yeiba Buena with the subtilty of a smile. In front of us fie the park-like roads of Oakland, and above them frown Ae peaks and clefts of Monte Diablo, a mountain higher than the topmost peak of Snowdon. To our left the waters of the inland sea run up towards San Rafael, to our right they race towards Santa Clara. Where, on earth, excepting in the Bosphorus, can eye of man behold a roadstead so amadous and a lai^dicapf so divine ? Have a paper—Gi//, Chronicle^ AUaV cries a young cttiaen. Id evemng diesa; with dirty shirt and mode diamood pin. 68 SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK. *• How much for each ?** "Two bits," says the young gentleman, with a saucy toss. Two bits make a shilling, and the actual selling price is two cents — one penny. " The price is two cents, and no boy on the quay asks more than five cents each." "Boys on the quay!" sneers the young gentleman in evening dress and dirty linen; "how do you think I could live, if I sold my papers for no more than those boys on the quay ? " Unable to answer my inquisitor, I turn to salute the Golden Gate, the Pacific Ocean, and the pleasant city lying at the foot of Telegraph Hill; then lea^ on shore, push through the crowd of Chinese market men, and seek my state-room in the Central Facffic Railway Cars. CENTRAL PACIFIC COMPANY. A gay and happy group of people come together in my car, to live in company for a week, and share the perils and the pastimes of a mountain trip. First, there is Mrs. Daisy Chain, a young Californian widow, bright and blonde, with lithe, plump figure, and a smile to make a withered cedar tingle into bud. Near her, caressing her like a father, sits Governor Laurel, bland and amiable old gentleman, who makes a post-bag of his hat, and spends his time, when Daisy leaves him, pottering over letters — full of nothing worse, one hopes, than state and mercantile secrets. Here is Jack Brazenose, a youngster from an English cdkge, seeing the world, testing the effect of climate on Utter beer, and waiting for his beard to grow. A miner with a baby in his arms — ^a great, stout fellow, and a puny child — make part of our litde group. Then we have three or four merchants and bankers, with their plump and pretty wives. A San Francisco lady, living on palms and lotos leaves, is always pretty and nearly always plump. The day is fine, the sunshine bright. Every one has just received a present, mostly in the shape of fruit and biscuit, wine and 69 RIGHT ACROSS: A FLIGHT FROM pigeon pie. Nothing like a present for making pec^ quick and gay! As we are going up into the \cf regions, where the snow may be twenty feet deq», and the ookl seventy degrees below freesii^ point, we are disclosed to talee our last bath of- sunshine with a gladsome heart Every one throws m his qiiqp and craidc Even the grave business of ^Bat Railway line is done in jokes. No sooner is the train in motion than the oondnctor hands you a card, with i n 8C iip t i oii--> Put this in your or where can C it. COAST RANGE AND VALLEYS. After skirting the Bay some miles we rush against the j hills, and scale the first range; stopping to give the iron horse a drink at Livermore, the centre of a rich stock-raising district, with a farmer's exchange, and a queer old Mexican quack, called Jock Toon, who cures diseases in horses and cows by spells. Look at this hybrid sittii^ on hb pkm^^ too lazy to either hold or ' drive— that's the sost of feUow who feeds Jodt Toon, and k»es half Im herd. A fanner riding his plough, is on the road to ruin. | From Albmiont, a rocky pass, we drop into the San Joaquin valley, one wait the morning train. A yom^ and rising city, with a fairy- like tMK^e, flying oyer a ca|Midous liver, in one channel this we^, sloping into anotibar diannel next week, Omaha is called a Hot pfac^ and is laid out with very great expectations of the coming years. The streets are long and duty, and the Pacific Hotel, built for ooovoiiaioe of railway travellers, stands two miles from the station ! Everything is scattered. If the houses stood together, Omaha would be a town, but being a "live place," a hundred persons have bought up real estate in the neighbourhood, and each is trying to force the rest to come his way, and buy his comer lot. While Thief-catcher and myself are exchanging warm drinks, Flnsoner makes a bolt for freedom. "Not a chance Ua him to get 80 SAN FRANCISCO TO NEIV YORK, swsiy" says Thief-catcher, slipping out. In five minutes he returns. ••All right— locked in his room— and waiters put on guard." We sip our drink and creep to bed. PRAIRIE STATES. From Omaha to Chicago, we traverse two Prairie States, Iowa and Illinois, countries over which the buffalo hunters roamed not forty years ago. A hundred railways nett and cover them to-day, with two main lines, connecting Omaha with Chicago and the Eastern States. Flat, rolling plains, broken by sweeps of pine and oak, a farmstead here, a lumber mill there, bring us to Des Moines, Rock Island, and Lasalle. Our company is breaking up. Lily left us in Omaha; in fact, she left us at Fremont, for the Scalpless Man came out to meet his bride, and having squeezed her into a comer, hspt her in future out of ^ht. They will be man and wife before we reach New York. Is Daisy glad? Next morning Daisy leaves us — ^not, I hope, without regret. If Mrs. Daisy Chain should ever read these lines, they will recall to her a week of travellers' trials, which were lightened to many persons by her joyous courage and her pleasant ways. More flats and runs, more woods and mills, more maize and oats, and then we roll into the Pacific Station of the marvellous City of the Lake. CHICAGO. "Waiting Rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association** are the first words we notice in the station. Special Waiting Rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association ! Is Chicago, then, a pious city — more puritanical than Boston ? On another wall a poster invites me in red and blue letters to see the can- can danced in public, at the low price of fifty cents. The can-can danced in public! Is Chicago, then, a wicked city — more shame- less than New York? Truth must answer, she is both; more M 81 RIGHT ACROSS: A FUGHT FROM ascetic than Boston, more riotous tfian New York. There are more churches in Chicago than in any other place of equal siae; there are certainly more betting-rooms and gaming- lld!s than in any other place of equal size. Chicago is a home of preachers and professors; a paradise of gamblers, courtesans, and thieves. A flush of life is on her streets and on her lake— a fervent, restless flush, not always stopping short of fever, and her energy runs forward into good things and into bad. Her meat and drink are strong. If you desire to hear fine i»eadiii^ go to church ; if you prefer naughty dialogue, go to theatres. Afl tastes are met, and every article is spiced. Cobden had not called Chicago the wonder of America, cvciy one with qres would say she is a fine city. Though she may not have a building to compare with either Girard College in Phaaddphia, the Capitol at Washington, or the City Hall, un- tmiriied, m San Francisco, she has a scale of grandeur in her plan, almost without a parallel in the world. Washington has a similar plan, but Washington is unbuilt. St. Petersburgh is laid on a colossal scale, but after all St. Peters- burgh is a city with a single street. Broadway in New York, Broad Street in Philadelphia, may be finer than any one thorough- fare in Chicago, but Chicago has twenty or thirty streets nearly as good as Broad Street. The scale of things first strikes a stranger's eye ; and even beyond the scale she has a certain rich- ness in her blocks and piles. London is improving &st; yet London, at her best, is hardly better than Chicago at her mean. If Queen Victoria Street were loigthened two or three miles it would make an ordinaiy bosmess street in diis Qty of the Lake and not even our little Vift^ has a finer or better af^pointed hotel than the Grand Pacific^ in Ouc^a THE FRONTIER LANDS. i Parting finom Thietoldier and his two prisonera, who have to tep on American ground, we nee Arough the billowy prairies t& MK%an to Detroit, a quaint French town, reminding you of New Qilean% and thence, by way of the Huron Bosphorus, to SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK, Windsor, in Ontario, whence we race and race, on British ground, along the border line, hugging the shores of Lake Erie, to our haven in Prospect House, at Table Rock. The province of Ontario is the frontier land. The border questions have been settled, yet the border is as brisk in local passion and excitement as it was before David Webster and Alexander Baring signed the famous treaty, which Lord Palmerston described, satirically, as the Ashburton capitulation, and which moderate men of all parties accepted as a pledge of Almost every country has some boundary question on her hands. France has an unsetded boundary in Chablais and Faucigny. Spain has a doubtful boundary in the Pyrenees. Italy has a dis- puted boundary on tlie ade of Nice. Denmark has a boundary trouble in Schleswig. Sweden has a disputed boundary in Lapland. Prussia has a vexatious question of boundar)' on the Vistula. Russia has disputed boundaries on every side. Turkey has an unsettled boundary in Asia ; Eg}'pt an unsettled boundary in Africa. Brazil has hardly any boundaries at all. No questions are so difficult to arrange. The wrangling of France and Spain over certain villages in the P}Tenees, goes back to the days of Fernando the Catholic. The Schleswng quarrel dates from the seventeenth century. Russia and Prussia have been haggling ever since the first partition of Poland. Switzerland appeals against France to a decision of the Congress of Vienna. In the midst of so many quarrels, oil sudi ancient standing, it is surely something to say that England and America, the two countries wfaidi have the largest frontier in the worid to guard, have had enough good sense and liberal feeling to arrange all matters in dispute between them, to the satisfaction of neariy all living men. The frontier is a border, and the border people are in every country a peculiar folk. In England they were given to cattle- lifting and revenge. In Spain the borderers are contrabandists. In Germany they are mostly money-changers, inn-keepers, and droschky drivers. In Italy they are bandits. In Russia they are mostly rebels, and in India they are always outlaws. In America the frontier men have been everything in turn, but change has fallen 83 RIGHT ACROSS: A FLIGHT FROM on the frontier as on other spots. The Falls have ceased to nurse Canadian rebds, and provdce American raiders. It is now a gene- ration since a band of rebds took poesesaoii' of Navy Island, just above these rapids. It is several years since a gang of Fenians stole across the Lake and landed in Ontario. Happily such tales are history, like the border feuds between the English and Ae Scotch. NIAGARA FALLS. Cape Horn, Salt Lake, and Niagara Falls are called the three lions of our trip. Cape Horn and Salt Lake are left behind us, and Niagara claims a word. C^eat things define themselves, and need no expletives. In olden times the tidal seas beyond the Pillars of Hercules were called the Ocean, and in modem days the mountain peaks from Savoy to Carinthia are called the Alps. One rule prevails in every dime. The Missouri is called the River; the Kansas prairies are called the Hains. It is the natural emf^iasb secured by an un- rivalled fact Wdlii^[toa was the Duke, Napoleon the Emperor, Albert the Prince. Such wimders as the Chaudidre, Montmorency, and Saute Stc. Marie, need more special names, for strange and lovely as those waters are, they find their peers in Chamounix, Yosemite, Saute du Rhone, and other falls. Niagara stands alone, without a rival on the earth, and therefore the Niagara waterways are simply called the Falls. This passage of Niagara river is the narrowest part of the dividing line between Ontario and New York. Two bridges span the gorge. A ferry paddles you across the stream in summer time, a ri^^ of icefloes bear your weight in winter time. For fifty cents you pass from the United States to Canada, and from Canada back to the United States. Evasion is at once a cheap and easy process. Hence, Niagara river is the feyourite stream of faithless wives, sii^pected burglars, and abscmiding clerics. Again, tt is a dangerous place. Death looks into your eyes from every bush and ridge, from every rock and path. If you are cardess of life, nothing 84 SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK, is easier than to lose it near the Falls. Thus, Niagara has become the chief scenery of tragic accidents, the paradise of romantic suicides. , . How well the scenery befits this character, and suggests this fate! Wandering by the FaUs in every season, when die cedar- trees of Goat Island were young in leaf, when they were daric in tint, when they were clothed in snow, I have always fiwnd Ae scenery sombre, weird, and ghostly, the roar of water in Hic diasm beneath the falls a strange and maddening monotone. The cataracts are brighter, but the cataracts are never gay. The cedars on thdr banks are grave as night ; the roar of waters, as they break among the rocks, is an unceasing knell. Each note is deep and lullmg to the sense. Each cry across the ledges seems to moan:— " Let's sit us down. And tell strange stories erf the deaths of Idngsl *' The cedar is a type of life in death. This sombre aspect of Niagara charms all young and sentimental hearts. Niagara is the pilgrimage of love, as Stratford on-Avon is the pilgrimage of genius, Mount Vernon Ae pilgrimage of patriotism, Santiago the pilgrimage of superstition. At Niagara, happy, lovers breathe their vows and pledge their troth, invoking the loo^y woods, the lashing waters, and the rising clouds of spray, as wit- nesses of burning love and stedfast truth. At Niagara, hapless swains and maidens, crossed in their affections, blighted in their prospects, wander by the isles and banks for one last hour, and then, with arms entwined and hearts inseparable, go headlong over into peace— " God gave me His great gift of life > I ghre it all for thee!" Not long ago a young man came across from the American side, accompanied by a pretty girl, and by a little child. He hired a boat, not far above the rapids, put the lady and the child into the stem, and throwing his oars into the boat, pushed off into the stream. An old boatman, standing near them, warned him to beware of going out too far. The young man, smiling and nodding, pushed straight out into the flood. At once the boatman saw RIGHT ACROSS: A FLIGHT FROM that he had lost control of his little craft, and shouted to him eagerly to edge about as he was running with the rush. The rower raised an oar in answer to his cries; the shaft was snapped across, but whether done on purpose who could say ? " God help you T sighed the hoahium la a moment they were gone. NEW YORK. From Niagara to New York we have our choice of lines: a northern route, by way of Rochester and Oneida to Albany, and thence down the left bank of Hudson river to Manhattan; and a southern route, by way of Horaellsville and Binghamptoa to Goshen, and thence across the upper ridges of New Jersey to Hoboken. Both lines run through charming sceneries and placed full of lore. On the northcra line you pass through the Burnt district. At Rodiester yoo find the spirit-rappere ; at Oneida the BiUe fiumlics: at Poog^ikeepsie ^e harmonic spheres. Nor is the southern route less aiagidar. The nsad from Buffalo to HorodkyiHe lies duough a virgin country, mostly peopled by Senecas, Tusearoras, and Cayugas— redskins who are called civilized and thought to be reclaimed. Salamanca, in this district, is an Indian town where you may study the red puzzle with but little danger to your scalp. At Binghampton a man may peer into the great mystery of the Erie ring without much danger to . his purse. Here is the river, there New Yorkl not rising on the sight, like Cadiz or Venice— a siren of the sea— crowded with cupolas and rich in gold and alabaster; but a solid place, with front of wharf and magazine ; a Bordeaux on the sea, and a HKwe splendid Amsterdam. Not that New Yoik is devoid k^v ■Til MA. iiili |l81 ISZI nr» 180 177 178 ODD NUMBERS ARE UPPER BERTHS SttOML Sbupe fcCV 14&.Queaa^fictana.St.Landeu f TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS. BY GEORGE AUGUSTUS SALA. STUDENTS of Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy" will not fail to remember the passage in which that learned old reduse, who tried his hardest to think and write as a misanthrope and a cynic, but who only succeeded in persuading posterity that he was the kindest and keenest of humorists, has set up his famous caveat against curiosity. The warning is far too diffuse to quote in its entirety, here ; but you may buy an edition of Burton at small cost (he is not half as much read as he should be) ; and if you be not edified, you will be at least amused by reading what the seemingly crabbed but really good-natured old college Don (he even liked that terribly unsympathetic Doctor Fell, and left him, in his last will, "his second best bed")** has set down concerning the futility of Curiosity, " that tyrannising care, that itching humour or kind of longing to see that which is not to be seen, to do that which oi^ht • This bequest has always induced in my mind the opinion that Shakespeare meant no disparagement whatever to Mrs. S. when he left her, by will, Ms " second best bed." Such a legacy seems to have been a common one in Shakespeare's time ; and from internal evidence may be generally assumed to have been dictated by kindly rather than by ill-conditioned feelings towards the legatee. The oddest marital bequest that I can call to mind is the one in which a devoted husband leaves to his wife " the stick with which I so oft did beat her, so that she may take Time by the forelock with her second mat^ and cudgel him lustily." TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS. not to be done, to know that secret which should not be known ; to eat of the forbidden fruit. What matter is it for us," he goes on, "to know how high the Pleiades are, how far Perseus and Cassiopeia from us, how deep the sea, &c ? We are neither wiser, nor stronger, nor modester, nor better, nor taUer, iK>r richer, for die knowledge of it." But I must not quote any more. I have quoted enough, perhaps, to show how very omvincingly the sage old gentleman has argued against that sin, the commission of which got our First Mo&er into such terrible trouble, and which her descendants are committing every day. It follows, very naturally, on thk eadiaustive diatribe against indulging in curiosity, that Burton himself was one of the most inquisitive scholars that ever existed. He was the Paul Pry of erudition ; but, when he had found out most human things, he stopped short, and, like P. P., "hoped he didn't intrude," disparaging the very vice (if it be a vice; but I very much doubt the fact) to which he was most addicted. Do not be afraid that I sJiall digress again concerning Burton, save to hint, once for all, that the "Anatomy of Melancholy" is about the best book I know that a traveller should take to sea with him. You are aware that, on board ship, the reading of con* tinuously sustained narratives, or even of the long drawn out dialogues in a novel, is always distasteful and generally impossiUe. AUaUum is a faculty, the exercise of n^ich is imperatively necessary in such lectures; but when you are at sea-— as a pas- senger, mind, not as a mariner (then you must be Incessantly Attentive) — the art of attention is very slightly called into action : first because your horizon is generally bounded by your nose, or, at farthest, by the ship's bulwarks; and next because, by the mere fact of being a passenger, you are relieved from the greater number of the responsibilities of life. You have only to do your best to take care not to slide off your legs when you go on deck, and not to tumble over on your nose when you descend the companion ladder; and for the rest, under Providence, the captain and his ofi&cers, — "the bo' sun, and all the ship's crew,*' as the song says» — the cook and the steward will take care of you. We are^ in a manner, at nurse when we are at sea, and an extremely **wet'* nurse, oftttmes, is Madam Thetis. Or; I mig^t put it thus:—- that 90 TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS. when you are travelling by a Cunard Steamer you are in a kind of perambulator: only, the nursemaid who is at the helm is the carefuUest of steerswomen, who never gossips with men-o'-war, (I mean Life Guardsmen) on the way, and never "cannons" against other carriages. As regards books at sea, it appears clear to me that the traveller derives much more pleasure from the perusal of short and not very closely connected paragraphs, than from that of lengthy and didactic essays (and that is why I have made my own style as disjointed and rambling as it was competent for me to do). Read Burton, then, or Joe Miller, or Howell's "Letters,** or Montaigne, or the "Celebrated Jumping Frog." Read anything, in fine (if you can read anything) which you can easily take up or lay down : which may divert, but which cannot bore you. For, being bored, you must needs become a bore, and a bore at sea is the most dismal of nuisances. He is caput lupimim. Hang an albatross about his neck ! Masthead him ! Thrust him into the furnace ; or, best of all, throw him overboard, and let him weary the fishes. Ennui is the Real Flying Dutchman. Clap on all sail ; get up steam to its highest ; and let us get away from that awfullest of all bores. Captain Vanderdecken, late of the Dutch merchant navy. Still, I fancy that I can tell you a better way by which you may defy the demon of lassitude. Gratify to the full that natural spirit of curiosity and tnquisitiveness which the old schoolman deprecates so drolly. Inquire into everything; wonder at every- thing ; speculate upon everything. To the man at the helm you are aware that you must not speak ; the captain and his officers are not to be teased with irrelevant interrogations; and if you put foolish questions to the boatswain you might receive an unpleasantly evasive answer. Yet there are seasons when the loftiest commander and the austerest chief officer may be accosted without impropriety ; and I will wager that, if these gentlemen endeavour to call to mind the conversations they have held with their passengers, they will agree with me that ninety-nine out of every hundred guests, after the first salutations, and their first remarks concerning the weather (on which they are usually in error), begin and end their parley by asking questions. It is natural. We are never so inqui- sitive as when we are at sea, because there is so little that we can 91 TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS, know. We are never less mquisitive than in our wandering through a museum, because there is so much knowledge lying loose about us. Those who dwell in the land where the pigs run about ready roasted, with knives and forks stuck in their crackling, and crying, '* Come, eat us ! " do not care, I have been told, for pork. Coeteris paribus^ when you are at sea, you don't care much for reading Mr. Plimsoll's pamphlets, or the " Wreck of the Kent, East Indiaman." You prefer to ask questions of all who will listen to you: — about how many knots the ship is making per hour; how many miles she made yesterday ; how many miles she will probably make to-morrow; and in (Kuticular, how long it will be before breakfast, or lunch, or dinner, or tea, is served. You know quite as well as the steward can do of whom you ask the question; but it passes tiie time to ask it Anything that will serve to devour that Time who, on shore, boasts, that he is Edax Rmm^ is a boon and a Uessing when your life is on the ocean wave. German block-puzzles; "historical questions," ''spellings bees," bouts rimSs, conundrums, charades, are all excellent in their way. The line only must be drawn at puns. The punster is Vanderdecken. Pitch him into the dingy, and tow him aft. I have been at sea a good deal in the course of a varied life — on voyages short and long, in weather temperate, and weather tempestuous, and in all kinds of company, from privateers- men to princes, and from smugglers to savants. I never was on board a pirate, but quien sabe ? I may be yet fated to sail under the Bkck Flag, to walk the plank, or, haply, to swing at the yardarm. I am generally very happy when I am at sea; first, because the recurring mornings fail to bring with them their dreary pabulum of newspapers ; next, because tiiere is no postal delivery: and I am, therefore, spared the reception of missives imploring me to send an order for the purchase of three dozen of the celebrated "Vino Oxrkalorum'* (a Natural Sherry), or to become a subscriber to the Imperial Infirmary for Diseases of the Eyebrow (a form of testamentary bequest to the trustees of the infirmary is obligingly enclosed by the secretary) ; and, finally, because I am out of the way, and safe from the malice of my enemies. It is virtually impossible, so at least I take it, that you Q2 TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS, or your enemy can be long at sea together, because of two things, one: — either you must close with your foe, and bite him, and try to throw him overboard; or (and this is what most frequently happens) you discover your enemy to be a very good fellow. Whereupon you shake hands with him, listen with deh'ght to his droll stories (which he has told so often to the Marines), and make room for him by your side in the "Fiddler," when the pleasant time of night is come, and the stewardess is tucking up the ladies, and putting oranges and other goodies under their pillows, and the menfolk assemble in the capstan house to smoke their last cigar. But I am speaking of thirteen years ago. Times change so rapidly; and, for aught I know, there may be no nocturnal "fiddling" now. There are three topics which, when I am at sea for a good long spell, and in whatever latitude I may be (I except only the ridiculous but abhorrent passage across the Straits of Dover, during which wretched transit every minute is mentally lengthened to the dimensions of an hour), never fail to excite in me a feeling of speculative wonder and curiosity. I am always extremely anxious to find out Three Things, differing as they do in their nature from one another as widely as Duff Gordon's Amontillado diflfers from the Cockalorum (a Natural Sherry). I wonder, first, how on earth, or rather on sea, the cook can contrive to prepare in the course of every twenty-four hours so many plenteous meals for such a vast number of hungry people : and all in a single caboose not much bigger than a birdcage. In the next place, I continue to ask myself whether I shall be sea-sick before the end of the voyage. I have been asking myself the self-same question, at intervals, during the last five-and-twenty years ; and } ou might think that the problem might be considered as satisfactorily solved when you get into port without having known a day when )ou were unable to eat, or drink, or smoke: but that is quite beside the matter. You undertake another voyage ; and, so soon as you have got your sea-1^, and have opened an account with the steward for brandy and soda, you begin to wonder whether you will be ill this time, prior to reaching Jersey City on the one side, or the Mersey on the other. There is no use in coming to dogmatic conclusions on this point. All our calculations, based on years of active expe- 93 TRANSATLANTIC TRIPS, rience, may be suddenly upset by an unforeseen, or rather unprefelt roll of the ship or a wrench of the screw : — by the odour of a dish you do not like, or by over-indulgence in one which you have liked too much. It is in no man's power — no, not even to the haughtiest and most prosperous of us — to assume with certainty that he will not be hanged; and that he has escaped the dread operation of sms: per. cell: during half a century, affords no absolute guarantee that he will not swing are he has reached three score. Thus you may have outdone the late Madame Ida Pfeififer, or the still hazily living Mr. John Livesey, as an Ocean highwaywoman or highwayman, and you may be terribly sick befcne your fiftieth trip across the Atlantic comes to a closet The utmost you can do» in the first instance, is to try to avoid being hanged; that is, by refraining from shooting inoffensive people through the head, by declining to drink Cockalorum Sherry, and by always keeping your business appointments. Any sensible Ethical Life Office would grant you an indisputable policy under these circumstances, and reward you with handsome annual bonuses besides. Anea]dng) of reaching your joum^'s end in safety. p 105 LIVERPOOL. BY JOSEPH HATTON. NEXT to London, this city of ships is the chief port of the United Kingdom. The Mersey, on which it is built, carries the noblest vessels of the British Mercantile marine into every sea. Liverpool is known all the world over, and in England is synonymous with enterprise and wealth. Visitors to England should make a point of remaining a few days in Liverpool. They will find it a good introduction to the greater world of London. Much that is done in the metropolis has its smaller counterpart in Liverpool, while in some tilings Liverpool is in advance of London. For example, there is haidly a finer building in the kingdmn than St Geoige's Hall ; and London has no Free Ubraiy to compare with the Ltveipool institution. There are m a n u fact ories in Liverpool of peculiar interest, and special objects of note will be found in a drive along the quays and in a visit, by ferry, to Bufkenhead. Music, the fine arts, and the drama, are wdl represented. There are societies and clubs which claim positions as high in the scale of Art and Society as the kindred schools of London. The Liverpool concerts are famous among musicians. Liverpool merchants pride themselves upon their patron- age of the arts. The theatres and concert-rooms are worthy of a great city, and, what is even more important to the traveller, a marked improvement in hotel life is a feature of Liverpool progress. The lx)ndon and North Western Hotel is a modem estabSshment, 107 LIVERPOOL. widi elevators, dectric bells, and every possible prolectkm agunsl fire. Its service is s^)od, and its sitnatioa exoqjtioiialty oonveiiieiit. M. BIsserot, the manager, has had the advantage of a long expe- rience of hotel management, on a large scale. Its proprietors, the London and North Western Railway Company, rq;ard die house as an important part of thor railway system, which has its administra- tive departments in the same range of buildings as the hotel Unlike the majority of English towns, Liverpool presents few features of interest to the antiquary, though its history is a re- markable story. The etymology of the name is derived from a fabulous bird called the liver. Doomsday Book does not mention the town, although it is pretty certain that fishermen had established themselves here before the Norman Conquest. About 1076 Roger de Foictier built a castle here, and soon afterwards the cluster of houses that nestled in the shadow of the walls gave the town its name. Henry I. granted Liverpool its first charter in 11 29. The conquest of Ireland in 1172 opened up an intercourse between die two ooontries, iriuch may be said to have laid the foundation-stone of liveipoors oommercsal fiune. In 1540 the town was almost de- populated 1^ the plaguy iriiidi spread like a deadly b%ht over all the land. Thoc^ commerce fiist made her home here about 1 172, the year 1565 only found Liverpool with twdvc ships, having an aggregate burden of two hundred and twenty-three tons, and navigated by seventy-five men. The town then consisted of one hundred and thirty-eight houses and six hundred and ninety inhabi- tants. Long before the days of Elizabeth, however, Liverpool possessed the privilege of representation in Parliament ; but this was denied the burgesses from the twenty-fifth year of the reign of Edward L, until Edward VL came to the throne. During the rdgn of this monarch the electors allowed their members two ah^ings a day for the maintenance of their rank and station," a sum of money which, even at its highest proportionate value in diese days, a Liverpool meichant would spend in cigars for his guests. In 1650 the town was comprised in half-a-dosen streets. Dale Street, Casde Street; Chapel Street; Old Hall Street, and Titbdbara Street, names fiunOiar to this day. Qromwdrs troops dismantled casde^ and the nuns remained until 172 1, when the 108 LIVERPOOL site was cleared for St Nicholas Church. Thus it will be seen that two centuries ago Liverpool was little better than a fishing village. It has now a population of over five hundred thousand, and the Dock Estate has an annual revenue, from shipping dues, of over £ i ,000,000 sterling. The chief historical event in the not very eventful story of Liverpool, is the siege in 1644, by Prince Rupert, when the town was held by the Commonwealth. Colonel Moor ably defended it against the prince, but eventually succumbed. Sir John Meldrum afterwards defeated the king's forces, and re-took the town in spite df a gallant attempt at relief by the Earl of Derby. The illustrious house of Stanley has advanced enormously in wealth since those days. The pres«it Loid Derby gets his princely income chiefly from the family estate at Knowsley, which has devdoped in value with the rising fortunes of Liverpool. During the course of the year some nine million persons are ferried over the Mersey, between Liverpool and Birkenhead, and a scheme is on foot f<»: a tunnel and railway to have termini in the centre of the two towns, thus connecting Birkenhead, without a brceik of line, with the railway service of the United Kingdom. The first wet dock was constructed in 1709. At that period it was a novelty. Its site has long since been appropriated to the erection of custom-house and dock offices. In 1720 great works were entered upon for facilitating intercourse between Liverpool and Manchester. The navigatbn of the Mersey and Irwell was im- proved, and a canal commenced. Like some of the modem cities of America, Liverpool has suffered gready by fires. The first Exchange was burned in 1795. In 1802 property worth £\^ooofiOO sterling, and in 1833 £iQOjXO wortb of property was destroyed by fire. In 1836 wardioused property» valued at about ^^300,000 was burnt, and 500,000 worth in 1842. Great fires have occurred ' since these dates ; but beyond all t^iese misfortunes, from a financial and social point of view, was the cotton famine brought about by the American war, which, however, exhibited in the operatives of Manchester a spirit of endurance and loyalty, only equalled by the public generosity of Liverpool, London, and the country at large. While Liverpool is a fine, well-built town, and has many 109 LIVERPOOL. picturesque churches, chapels, ftod pidklic buildings, its most notable architecture lies pretty close together and may aoon be inspected. The most inqposiiig of public bufldings is St Geoige's HaM, irfiich will be recognised at once by its magnificest portico sormounting a pedestal of stqw of splendid width. There is no better example of ^ beauty of the Gorintiuan order of architecture in England. Outside the building there are admiraUe statues of the Queen and Uie late Bince Consort, by Thomeycroft. The great hall is remark- able for its exquisite ornamentation. It is used for public meetings, flofwer shows, bazaars, and instrumental concerts on a large scale. The Ofgan cost / 10,000, and is a splendid instrument. Mr. Best, one of the most dexterous English organists of the present day, is permanently engaged by the Corporation of Liverpool to give per> formances twice a week throughout the year, except during Assize time, when the large hall forms a vast waiting-room for those engaged in the adjoinmg law courts. The hall measures one hundred and sixty-seven by seventy-seven feet, with a magnificent arched roof at a height of eighty-two feet Adjacent are die law courts, and a small concert hall, exquisitely ornamented, in which ddighted audiences have listened to dassical music, interpreted by the most eminent nmsndans, and in which tiie late Charies Dickens and Mark Lemon gave their readmgs. St Geoige's Hall, from fiist to last, has cost over /3oo,ooo. The Free Library and Musenm are well worth a viat They were presented to the town by Sir William Brown, and cost /3 2,000. In the galleries of the Free Library an annual exhibition of modem pictures has been hdd erf" late years. This exhibition may be said to have marked an epoch in the history of Liverpool Art progress. Until it was started by Mr. Edward Samuelson, an ex-mayor, and other energetic townsmen, the local exhibition of pictures was entirely m the hands of dealers and frame makers. Mr. Samuelson's endeavours induced a wealthy town-councillor, Mr. Walker, to present on the occasion of his election to the civic chair, the sum of £20jocx>, to be applied to the purpose lays itself especially 112 LIVERPOOL. when stimulated by drink, which may, with ail truth, be said to be the bane of Liverpool. Innumerable means have been suggested and attempted to countmct the attraction and influence of intoxi- cating liquor, but so fer to very little purpose. Mr. Robertson Gladstone, brother of the ex-Premier, a Liverpool celebrity, some time ago had a Drunkard's List published every week in the local newspapers, thinking to improve the habits of delinquents by exposing the names of those who had been convicted of being "drunk and incapable.'* The exposure had, however, no result. The list was a weekly scandal to the 'town, and its length being a heavy tax upon the papers, it was ultimately discontinued. The most important measures against crime of every descrip- tion in Liverpool are those adopted by the Roman Cadiolic clergy. Nothii^i Uxc instance, can exceed the energy and zeal in die wel- fare o vo 00 d to lO so" o 00 00^ rj OS OS »o »o so «*5 00 M o TO 00 •I 1^ to SO «0 t cc o (J so o_ to OS so o" 00 to N to 00 to CO so N SO 00 I-I vi 00 «0 PI so 00 M I o i .8 00 lO 00 ■« bO I 00' 00 so 00 o V) g e 00 so 00 c c 5" 00 so 00 M E o 4> tn ft o c PI 00 C3 ' bo rt C C o H '"I- o^ M lO pT to vo OO" 00 PI 00 M SO 00 H< E o cn ttf V I-I u c IN LONDON BY W. BLANCHARD JERROLD. IF I were asked to advise a friend from abroad how he should set about seeing London, I should say : Start {torn the West from your hotel by Hyde Park Comer, or Portland Place, or Charing Cross, to the Park. Be early, and spend an hour by the Ride watching the ladies and gentlemen of England taking their morning canter : in their freshness and vigour — after overnights of dinner, 1 opera, and rout— and that of their flaxen-haired children, bestriding sprightly and wilful ponies, you will see some of the reasons of the healthy life which keeps the country straight, of the viens satia in c&rpore satto which is conspicuous still in Old England. Back to breakfast at the hotel and the morning papers, in which you wiU read over jresterday's life and to-day's, and put yourself au cmrant with all that is going on in the London you are to ^m before next bedtime. Then set out for the East along Oxford Street and Holbom, having dipped into Peter Cunningham's « Hand-book of London," under the heads of the main thoroughfares through which you will pass in the course of the day — say, Oxford Street, Holborn, Newgate Street, Cheapside, London Bridge, Leaden- hall Street, Thames Street, St. Paul's Churchyard, Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street, the Strand, and Charing Cross. As you proceed eastward you will perceive rapid changes in the aspect and character of the citizens. You leave the fashionable 119 IN LONDON. shops and the easy-going people behind you, and get amid crowds of people who are earnest and impatient bread-winners. You will become familiar with every description oi London conveyance, and all grades of the commercial classes, from the millionaire merchant to the lean and sad curbstone vendors of penny watches, leadier money-bags, key-rings, and ^ywers and fruit; the dapper clerk, the ^bby attome/s hack, the sleek and smiling tradesman, the poor Respectability going shamefaced in search of needlework, the rest- less-eyed Jews who grow fat on London poverty in Petticoat Lane and in every corner of Shoreditch, the burly draymen and porters, the lusty butchers' men by Newgate Street, the stalwart City police, the sharp and saucy shoeblacks, the proud beadles of the Bank, the solemn persons who go on 'Change, the City porters, the pale compositors and reporters of Fleet Street, the barristers and their clerks of the Temple; then the wonderful medley iA men and women of that most ancient and interestii^ h^way, the Stiand; and so on to where the kmngers and nonworkers are — to the clubs of Fill Mall and St James's Street, the shopping of Bond Street and Regent Street, and back to the Park at half-past five o'clock! During such a day, in which there should be no haste nor attempt at sight- seeing, but an easy taking-in by eye and ear of all that may flow to them, a stranger to London may obtain a just general impression of the mighty whole, on which he may safely proceed to build his estimate of the English capital. He will have seen the lounging West and the bustling, impatient East ; the wealth and rank, the industry, the keen fight for bread, and the poverty, as they appear from day to day in London streets and public places. The observer should be on foot: leaning over the rsuHngs in die Ladies' Mile, resting upon one the stone beoclies (tf the Royal Exchange, loiterii^ in Cheapdde or along Conihill, and examining the shops of the Strand, Bond Street, and Regent Street, he obtains glimpses of character and remarks cvery-day incidents of the great city's life, that will help to form his judgment and to fix the details of the scene in his mind. In order to arrive at a correct estimate of a national character, a traveller must penetrate into the national home-life ; he must peer into the nursery, assist at the christening, attend the marriage, and see pater 1 20 IN LONDON and mater in their robe-de-ckambre as well as at the head of the dinner-table, or bowing to guests when their rooms are crowded. But there are classes who are most at home in the street, to whom the curbstone is a shop and the pavement a counting-house, the luncheon-bar and the tap-room almost a home. In the streets the bearing of one class towards another is to be marked, and the observer of a great city should begin with the general out-door life before he proceeds to the domestic aspect of the citizens, and a study of the separate classes by whom the city is peopled. The way to get an idea of the chief monuments of London has been made easy by the completion of the Thames Embank- ment on the north bank of the River. A pleasant walk through St. James's Park to Whitehall, by the Horse Guards, will open to the traveller a morning of rambles amid the memories of the past, folded in a series of ancient structures not to be outmatched for historical interest in any city on the face of the earth. He stands opposite the Whitehall of the Stuarts and of Cromwell, to begin with. To the left he commands the Statue of the First Charles, the Nelson Column, and the National Gallery ; and to the right, whither his steps should be bent, lie the great Offices of State, the Palace of Parliament, Rufus's Westminster Hall — the seat of Justice, and the Abbey, the foundations of which lie buried in the far-off misty past — the Christian upon the ruins of the Pagan shrine. London has no £urer scene in summer-time than the Broad Sanctuary. Our statues to statesmen, the Drinking-foun tain, the Hospital, the Houses of Parliament, the parterres and lamps, and the mighty Clock-tower, are of the Present; and the sober grey Abbey — the background of the picture — is of the silent Past. It is an imposing and a beautiful scene, in which the centuries of our national life lie linked together. Within the Abbey the stranger paces by the ashes of great Englishmen of our various historical epochs, down to the Victorian age, which has laid in the dust, side by side, the mortal part of Palmerston and Grote, Lytton and Dickens, and the Christian wanderer Living- stone ! Again and again modem pilgrims make their way to Poet's Comer, for in the immortal shadowy company of this narrow place is the imagination most powerfully exdted. I have observed R 121 IN LONDON. of the hallowed spot, when making my London pilgrimage with my friend and fellow-traveller, Gustave Dore, "The air is filled Willi immortal spirits; and the memory snatches at the gems of each. Rare Ben, Shakespeare, 'blind old Milton,' Dryden, the singer of 'The Faerie Queene,' Pope, Sheridan, Gray, Addison, Handel, the voice that charmed and gave cheeriness to 'The Marineis of England,' Macaulay, Grote, the parent of ' Pendennis,' and tiie gentle heart that hymned an immortal 'Christmas Carol' to the world, crowd upon the thoughtful spectator and keep bis feet leaded to the ground. It is, as it were, the whispering gallery of the great of our country, whence they are speaking to fer-oft l)osterity. Hard by lie the ashes of the great Chatham and of Sir Isaac Newton— immortal memories that compel the reverence of pilgrims from every clime. Each day, each hour, in the Minster has charms to the serious and sensitive creature. The choir thrills to the heart; the organ lifts the feet from the earth as it vibrates through the chapels filled with the dust of kings and trembles through the shadowy, meditative cloisters: or the soul is stirred and the eyes arc gladdened when, to the stately cadences: of the *Weddii^ March; a marriage procession, like a beam iilcfare's beyoncL He ndio has studied his Kn^t, Peter Cunningham, Timbs and Thombury, who is &ndliar with the Eng^ writers of the e^teentfa century, and cares for those of the nineteenth, and who can afford to loiter, think, and explore, may spend a delightful aitemoon in Fleet Street and the Strand. Almost every house has its story. There is Wolsey's Palace opposite Chancery Lane. Under the gateway and into the Temple! To the left, by the church, is the grave, out in the highway, of Oliver Goldsmith, just where he would have chosen to lie, within the hum of Fleet Street, the shadow of the Temple Church, and under the windows of the chambers, where happy, as well as miserable, hours were spent. There is nothing more interesting in all London — no spot in which the past and present are so pleasantly mingled — than the ancient scat of the Knights Templar, now covered with stacks of chambers and ancient halls and gardens, and' given up, for many a generation, to men kamed in the kw, or growing learned. The shadows troops of great men people the narrow ways; but perhaps the two names and shades which come up most in men's minds as they saunter through the courts and buildings are those of Johnson and Goldsmith. There is a tavern m Fleet Street 124 IN LONDON where Johnson's chair is kept as a relic; but I leave to my dear old friend, Peter Cunnii^ham, with whom I have spent many happy days in this vicinity, listening to the outpour of his vast store of knowledge of Londyal attendants and servants, are things of the past embodied in oiur modem fife. The seardiing the cellars of Ae Mace oast, under the management of Mrs. Bancroft; old Druiy Lane, where there is pantomime at Christmas, opera in the season, and spectacular drama in the autumn ; the Lyceum, where Mr. Irving in Shakspearian characters is the sole and sufficing attraction, if we except that consummate artist, Mr. Swinboume ; the little Strand, 131 IN LONDON. where there is always a hearty laugh ; the Vaudeville, where Messrs. James, Thorn, and Farren inline in polite comedy; the Olympic, given up to stnx^ drama, are the principal houses. To diese must be added the Covent Garden Opera House, , the Gruid» and odier popular hotels. Thb SoDTHAioiosr AXD Havrb Routs ofiers attractions only to tourists who have not seen the Isle of Wight, or are anxious to visit Havre. The leisurely traveller, however, can make a noteworthy tour this way. He can pause, for instance, for a few hours at Winchester, to see a charming specimen of an English cathedral town. The port of Southampton, with its West India mail steamers; the Solent, bright and lively with craft of all kinds ; the great English yachting station— Cowes, Ryd^ the royal residence of Osborne, the natural beauties of the Isle Wight— these are the elements of two or three days' loitering rmtU for Paris, via Southampton. Leaving Southampton about midnight, the tourist reaches Havre, at the mouth of die Seine, in the morning. The port and docks of Havre offer a study of the maritime commerce of France, the like 140 LONDON TO PARIS, of which is not to be had elsewhere in that country. It is second in impressiveness only to the stories of wealth and enterprise which lie in the docks of Liverpool and the port of London. Time permitting, and it be summer time, the tourist should take one of the little steamers which ply between Havre and Trouville. The trip is only across the mouth of the Seine, and Trouville is a new sensation. It is the most renowned, the prettiest (Biarritz, perhaps, excepted), the gayest of French watering-places; and if the tourist can find quarters at the Roches Noirs Hotel he will be able to study Paris fashionables in their most fantastic moods. Here that which is plain is most eccentric, and that which is sober or homely is most conspicuous. It is Vanity Fair, in &ncy dresses, brought to the sea'^ide. From Havre the way to Paris lies through Rouen. The Thames Route. — The stranger who has not seen the Thames from London Bridge to die sea, or who has travelled no farther on its bosom than the white-bait resorts of Greenwich or Blackwall, will find his journey by " the silent highway " to Boulogne, en route for Paris, full of stirring interest. The Thames was a famous highway of commerce in the days of Chaucer. Its ebb and flow have borne along many generations of adventurous men from many lands. It leads to die most renowned and mighty trade port on die (ace of the globe. Stately processions of steam and sailing ships are for ever passing to and fio between its shoces. At every point and reach there is historic ground. As in die night, or in summer in the grey dawn, the Boulogne boat moves sb^y away from St. Katharine's Wharf down the Pool, the serried ranks of craft of all builds and colours show black forests of masts on either side. Then the hulls of ships in builders' yards stand out against the horizon; and so through a maze and tangle of the crowded river, the ship threads her way to Greenwich, with its noble Hospital facing the shore. The Thames winds in sharp curves towards die sea. On the left sweeps die flat shore of Essex, desolate around die Purfleet stores of gunpowder; to the right are the green slopes of Kent, by pleasant Erith, dear to the Thames* yacht^nan. And so on to Gravesend, where a fleet of outward-bound ships — many laden 141 t LONDON TO PARIS, with emigrants for the antipodes— lie at anchor; and to Tflbiiry Fort, associated with Queen Elizabeth and the Armada. The river flows, ever broadenii^ to die Nore, where countless fishing- boats are working for the voracious London market. Beyond the Nore, to the right, off Sheerness, and at the mouth of Ae Medway, lie British ships-of-war. The steamer then skirts the rising Kentish coast, and passes the Reculvers, Heme Bay, Margate, Broadstairs, and Ramsgate— lying, to all appearance, embedded in the chalk cliffe; the Foreland light^ships, Deal, and, finally, by stately Shakespeare's Cliff, Dover. Off Dover the steamer shapes her course across the Oiannel; and the white line erf Albion has not disappeared from the horizon when the bold, brown headland of Cape Grisnez rises under the prow, and the dark fine of the French coast appears, with the Napoleon cohunn crowning the Boulogne cliffs. On landing, the passenger must follow his luggage to the Custom House, pass it, and see it booked for Paris. There is no registration direct from London Bridge by this route. These are the various ways between the two great capitals, which are described with the view of givii^ practical directions as weU as a co m preh e nsi v e survey, in acfaiate chapteiB of this v<^ume. ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS. Fares.— Times a/ Siariimg^.-^Length of Joumey.-^Plam of InUnsi m ike Way. The Mail Route.— Fares, ist Class, £3; 2nd Class, 5*. Hours of Startii^ : From Charii^ Cross, 7-40 a.m., and 8 25 pan. ; Cannon Street, r45 ajn., and 8-30 p.m.; Victoria, 7 40 a.m., and 820 pjn.; Holboni Viachict, 7-35 zjol, and 815 p.m.; Ludgate Hai, 7-38 ajn., and 8*15 p.ni. Time, 10 houre. Places of interest m rmd€: Chatham, Dover, Calais, Boulogne, Amiens, Chantilly. ii2 i LONDON TO PARIS. The Tidal Roum — Fares, ist Class, £7. i6f. ; 2nd Class, £2 2s. Fop hours of Starting see "Bradshaw" or the "A B C" Guide. Time, 9^ hours. Places of interest en rotUe: Folkestone, Boulogne, Amiens, Chantilly. The Newhaven and Dieppe Route. — Fares, ist Class, £1 13J.; 2nd Class, £\ ^s. Hours of Starting, see "Bradshaw" or the **A B C" Guide. Average time, 15 hours. Places of interest £n route: Dieppe, Rouen, the Valley of the Seine. The Southampton and Havre Route. — Fares, ist Class, £1 13^.; 2nd Class, £\ \s. Hours of Starting, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, latest train from Waterioo Station to catch the boat, 9 p.m. Time, 17^ hours. Average passage across the Channd, 7 hours. Places of interet m rotUe: Winchester, Southampton, Isle of Wight, Havre, Trouville, Rouen. The Thames Route. — Fares, ist Class, £1 js. 6d. ; 2nd Class, £1 35. Hours of Starting: the steamers leave Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf, London Bridge, daily, except Sundays; for the hour see the Times Shipping Advertisement columns. Average time from London Bridge to Boulogne, 9 hours; from Boulogne to Paris, 6 hours. Places of interest em rouie: Greenwich, Erith, Gravesend, Tllbiny, the Nore, the Mouth of the Thames and Medway, Shakespeare's Oiflf, tiie Napoleon Cdumn on the French Coast, Boulogne, Abbeville, Amiens, Chantilly. t43 IN PARIS. BY BLANCHARD JERROLD THE great Boulevards, that stretch from the Madeleine in the west to the July Column in the east, are Paris. You may make excursions away from them to visit certain buildings, or gardens, or sights, or files, but you gravitate naturally to them night and day. When you are not sight-seeing, or visiting, or shoppings or at the races, you are on the Boulevards. You consent to leave them just to go to bed, to get the rest tiiat will enable you to return to them in the morning. It is on the Boulevards you meet everybody; on the Boulevards you can tmy ev^yiluiig. The theatres are there; Peters's, the Grand Caf4 Boon's, the Maison Dor^e, the Caf<& Ridie and the Caf6 Anglais, and Tortoni's are there. The Boulevard des Italiens is the centre of *' the centre of dvilization.** It is here you will meet Parisian celebrities and types by the score ; and on this Boulevard you may speedily learn whether Paris is full or empty. Under the Empire it afforded the most wonderful study of men of all nations to be found in the world. The strangers are fewer now, for Paris has lost much of its gaiety since the war and in the unsettled political atmosphere of France. Nevertheless, you will soon persuade yourself, while taking an ice outside Tortoni's or breakfasting at the Riche, that the Boulevards are the highway of all nations. Within a few minutes you may hear neariy every European language. u 145 IN PARIS. Paris, like London, has been spreading out to the west, of late years, to the detrimeiit of the Palais Royal and the old- fashioned hotels thereabouts. Twenty years ago the Galignanis were in the Rue Vivienne, by the Bourse, with the Hotel des Etrangers opposite them and Michel L6vy for neighbour; and strangers dined with Vefour, or the Trois Freres, or Very. But all this is changed. The Galignanis' home is under the colonnades of the Rue de Rivoli (and a trifle out of the way even there) ; and travellers repair to the Grand Hotd, and the Splendui^ and those of the Rue de la Baiz; and even the Michel L6vys aie in the Rue Scribe, whidier the crystal staircase, eist of the old Flakus Royal, has been carried. The old hotds of the Rue de Rivoli, dd^^itlul as die view over the Tuileries Gardens is from their windows, are neglected, especially since the days of the Commune; the procession of travellers that crowded the way from the Rue Castiglione to the Hotel de Ville is broken up ; for what may be seen now but the ruins of the palace and the magnificent municipal hotel, and a vast expanse of hoardings In these days, people make special journeys to this part to visit the Louvre, the church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois, the Tour St. Jacques, and the works of the new Hotel de Ville; but they lounge about the western Boulevards* A better first da/s drive in is not to be made than one fix>m the Madeletne along the great Boulevards to the Cdumn of July, which terminates them, and bade by the Rue de Rivoli and the Rue de la The Boulevards alone afibrd a glimpse at all die daaaes, and almost all the trades and varieties of shops and houses, of the capitaL There are the rich people and the gorgeous shops and eafis in the west, as far as the Rue Vivienne; and then the busier and more commercial Boulevards b^n. The Faubourgs Montmartre and Poissonniere are crowded trading quarters. Past the Portes St. Denis and St. Martin, where Paris is purely commercial, but not the less picturesque, the great Boulevards assume humbler pretensions. The cafes and r&siaurants are poorer ; the working and small trading classes throng the way ; the smaller theatres appear; and so on to the Place de la BastiQe, which is the centre-point of laborious Paris. On the one side is 146 IN PARIS. the Marais, on the other the turbulent St Antoine Quarter, with the Prince Eugene Barracks handy, to prevent barricades. Undoubtedly the centre of fashionable Paris, now-a-days, is the Quarter of the New Opera. Here is the Grand Hotel, to begin with; and close at hand are the Jockey, Washington, and other Clubs; the Grand Caf6, the great American houses of the Rue Scribe, the tasteful establishment of Doucet Jeune, chemisier, in the Rue Hal^vy, those of Siraudin, Boissier, the Printemps, Gouache, Monsieur Worth, the diamond retailors of the Rue de la Pais, Klein's, Giroux's, Jones's, the Cosmopolitan, the QaSk de la PaiiL At this point the visitor enters upon the modem Paris of spacious Boulevards created by Napoleon III. To the east lies old Paris; to the west and north-west the Paris of the Second Empire. Out- side the Grand Hotel the visitor is on the liveliest spot of the capital, with all its attractions and seductions grouped around him. At his elbow are the telegraph offices, booking places for the thea- tres, the best cigar depdt, and in the kiosks before him lie the papers of all nations. Round the corner are the offices of the transatlantic lines, the American Register, CarUinetUal Herald, and European Review bureaux, the bar devoted to the drinks peculiar to the United States. This is, iii short, the very heart of the Americaa'i> Paris — and the En^^shman's also, for the matter of that. A day in Paris is unlike one in London. To begin wiA, the Parisians are not much addicted to early-morning horse exercise. There is nothing in the Champs Elysees or the Bois de Boulogne like the early equestrian show in Hyde Park. The few riders by the lake are mostly foreigners. It is late in the afternoon — but not so late as in London — that the Champs Elys6es and the tour of the lake are thronged with the fashion of Paris. The Avenue de rimperatrice, the lake, and the richly- wooded drive round it — indeed, all the cultivated splendour of the Bois de Boulogne — are the handiwork the Second Empire. Before 1848 the wood was a dusty, ragged, and neglected one; widi superb bits of effect in it, it is true, but wanting water and roads. The Bois de Boulogne is now the most spacious and splendid fashionable drive in the world. If it has not the grand timber to be found in the old London Parks, it can boast many attractions to which the London Park H7 IN PARIS. teequenter is a stranger. The Great Cascade, the Madrid, the ptetty rwsiammmts perched here and there in woody seclusion, the Race-courae, the Garden of Acdimatization, the Pre Catelan, Long- champs are so many distinct and happy features inviting pleasure- •edcera to loiter in the open air. When the day is fine, can anything be pleasanter than a gentle drive throughout the afternoon in the shady by-ways of the Bois, a dinner at the Madrid or at the ^ Cascade Cafe in the evening, with a row on the lake and an ice on the island restaurant, and then gendy home at night down the Champs Elysees, sparkling with the lights of the Gafe Alcazar and other open-air concerts, and enlivened by the music stealing through the trees ? The Champs Elysees are not to be passed over as the mere highway to the Bois de Boulogne. TlMsy are the iint <^.air pleasure ground of Paris, with the Areh of Triumph for western boundary and the noble Place de k Concorde Ux eastern limit Wheal PSttis is making hdiday, peo(^ of all dc^^rees flock to these Elysian Fields. The Place de la Concorde is alive with laughing proces^as of people, the roadways are packed with carriages of ewery build. All dasses are mingled. There is no place where I»ivate carriages may pass and hired vehicles may not. The same general liberty, or equality, is observable on the ride round the lake. In the Champs Elysees— where the merry-go-rounds, the goat-chaises, the gingerbread and sweetmeat stalls, the Mario- nettes, and immortal Guignol, are, on fine summer afternoons, and especially on Sundays and Mondays and feast days, at their merry work— it is delightful to observe the general giadouaiess with which folk of various degrees mingle, to the manifest advantage of all. In these same Champs Elysees the observer will perceive the huge capacity for enjoyment which is a characteristic of Oie Latin race. Perhaps it is most strikingly perceptiUe In the crowd that is for ever Bering before the rival children's theatres of Guignol and Gringalet A roped ^»ce before the theatre is covered with bendws and chairs, and up(»i tiiese will be found ranged, not only diildren and dieir bmmes^ but grave parents, and even grey-headed men; while outside Ae cord is a dense concourse of men and women of all classes, including whole companies of soldiers— and 148 IN PARIS. all to see a performance that may be generally described as a refined and artistic development of the humours of Mr. Punch. It is difiicult to say whether the heartier laughter comes from the young or the old. But the exuberant spirits of the people are noticeable in every part of this great playground. Upon the wooden horses of the merry-go-rounds will be seen men and women as wdl as litde children — the grown folk are but the bigger children. If we pass to a quieter scene, namely, to that of the Tuileries Gardens, where the children are playing under (he trees, or swimming their boats by the fountain basins, or plying their skipping-ropes by the children's avenue, we shall still see grown men and women taking parts in the games. In the children's avenue, by the Rue de Rivoli, old men are to be seen spending their afternoons in turning the skipping-ropes for the children. I remember, in the days of old, a venerable man who not only plied the skipping-rope daily, but actually wore pumps and joined in the infantile dances. Then there were other merry old men who fed the birds, and would delight in whistling down flights of sparrows from the trees upon the gravel walks and throwing crumbs to them. Tired at last of their diversions, they would find a place by a sunny wall, take the Dibats from their pockets, unfold thdr speetades, and take a deep draught of politics. In the evening the pleasures of the Champs £lys6es are con- fined to the harmonies of Musard (where the select wmid congre- gates — especially on Fridays), to the grotesque open-air concerts, where music is supplemented by beer and coffee and ices, and to the dazzling, but not very wholesome, gaieties of Mabille. The stranger will find the characters of the Parisian open-air pleasure-scene vary very much with the locality. Let him drive to the southern bank of the Seine, and up the Rue des Saints Peres, the Rue Bonaparte, or the Rue de Seine, to the Luxem- bourg Gardens; here he will note, amid the handsome parterres^ and in the leafy avenues stretching away to the Observatory, a more serious company than that which generally peoples the Champs Elysees. It is true that he will come upon groups of loud-talking and musical sbidents of the Quartier Latin, but the ma^rity of the loungers are persons to whom life is a very serious 149 IN PARIS. matter indeed. The genteel poor live round about the Luxem- bourg Palace ; its gardens give fresh air to the children of the dd noblesse, and of the poorly-paid pntfessois of the great schods at hand. In the tranquil by-ways of the Luxembuig the Ruis actor loves to rehearse his part. Again, in the Square Montholon, by the Great Ncxthem Raflway Station, are to be seen, of evenings, crowds irf decent workfolk and their children. The Palais Royal has lost its dd ea^. When the band plays, on summer after- noon% crowds d" Ae commercial classes who dwell round about are still drawn to the open space, but the old liveliness of the place is departing, as modern Paris is, like the "great Orion," slowly sloping to the west. The most exclusively fashionable gardens of Paris are those included within the railings of the lovely Pare Monceaux, at the upper end of the Boulevard Malesherbes, just as the park of the Buttes Chaumont, by Belleville, at the north-eastern extremity of the capital, is the recreation-ground (and a most beautiful one it is) (rf the Parisian workii^-dass. No stranger should leave Plans without having seen the Buttes Qiaumont. In the afternoon of one of the days which the traveller will surdy give to the Louvre, he cannot do better than indulge in a lounge akx^ the quays. As he leaves the quadrangle of the Louvre on the river «de, he will face the Pont des Arts and the famous Institute of France, the head-quarters of the forty Immortals. To the east lie many attractions : there is the old Pont Neuf, with the statue of Henri-Quatre ; beyond is the gloomy Conciergerie, where Louis XVL and Marie Antoinette lay, and in which Napoleon III. was once a prisoner; and from behind it pierces the glittering spire of the Sainte Chapelle. The Chamber of Commerce, the Palace of Justice, Notre Dame, the new Hotel Dieu, are all on this renowned island, every indi of which is pregnant with history. Along one bank is the Quai de I'Horlogerie ; here, also, was the Morgue, but it is now rebuilt further east, dose by the Halle anx Vins. Should the lounger so £aur east as the Halle auz Vins and the Jardin des Flantes, whkA are dose ti^;ether, he should turn homeward some little time before the sun is'setdi^, and then, following the southern 150 IN PARIS, bank of the river, he will get, on the left, some rich glimpses of old Parts, with a succession of fine views of Notre Dame, the bridges, the Louvre, the Institute, and the picturesque lines of the Quai Voltaire, all aglow in the sunset. Just before he reaches ihe Bridge of Solferino, opposite the Tuileries Gardens, he will come upon the charred ruins of the Palais d'Orsay, a black linger-mark of the Commune still left standing. The markets of Paris contrast most advantageously with those of London. The Parisians are a marketing people, because they are an eminently prudent race. The Parisian housewife has no bills, she buys, cash in hand, the provisions for each day; she is, therrfcnne, an admirable economist, and knows how each item of her necessities is to be most advantageously bought Ladies who pretend to excdlent positions m .society never disdain the market Again, cooks, or femmes-de^iuag^e^ go to market every morning, and, it being undo-stood that they levy a percentage of one sou in the franc upon thdr purchases for their employers, buy at a rate far cheaper than that the shiftless housewife, who never sees a market, pays. There is a commodious, well-built, dry market for each of the twenty arrondissevicnts of the French capital, to say nothing of the special markets, as the Temple, the charming flower market by the Madeleine, the wine, the corn, the cattle, and other markets. But, first of all, there are the Halles Centrales, the most spacious and best designed central markets in the world. Within the great square on which the luUUs are built are the butter miaiket, the fish market, the poultry market, the oyster maiket, ^e meat market, the vegetable and fruit markets, with spacious streets on all sides opening towards every quarter of the capital The central space is occupied by the v^table and fruit, over which the famous da$nes-4e4«t-kalU-AQXtsai^s^<^ and buxom dames of firm wrist and flexible tongue, who have played notable parts in troublous times — ^preside, noisily and often wittily provoking custom. In these Halles Centrales the close observer will find an example of that love of order, that passion for depart- ments and sub-departments, and of wheels within wheels, so conspicuous in all the commercial and political aspects of French life. It is impossible to have dealings in a large French shop — 151 IN PARIS. the Petit St. Thcmias or the Ma^iasins du Louvre, for instance^ without beii^ stmck, not ooly with the oomi^at machineiy set in motioQ, bat also with the admhable precision and thoroughness of its wofk. The rayons or zones are without number, and the army of shopmen is eaOraordinary, but there is not the least confusion, because the customers are as intelligent in deferring to the system as the dealers are in administering it. Take a Paris omnibus conductor, the superintendent of a cab-stand, or the dames de comptoir of one of the famous Duval Bouillon establishments, and you will remark that the French have a genius for methodical activities. They delight in a contrdle. Observe with what rigour they insist upon the rules of a queue at a theatre or a railway ticket office : it is not of the least use to endeavour to in- sinuate yourself out of your fair place; yon must be the ring of the tail before you can be the first After a morning ^nt amid the antiquities of the Hotel Quny, or at the distant Gobelins, or at the Palais des Aichives, or, better still, in ^ Conservatoire des Arts et M^ers on tiie fine Boulevard Sebaotopd, I should recommend the visitor to make his way throi^ such busy and old streets as the Rue MontorgueO, and diose running eastward from it, to the famous Temple, the great second-hand clothes market of Paris. It is the place where the genteel poor go to obtain extraordinary bargains. Every kind of garment is to be obtained — second- hand. Here shop-folk, who are compelled to make a good ap- pearance, wives of inferior officials, and struggling professional men, actresses of the humblest and honester degrees, and persons of slender means who belong to good society, buy the cast-ofl feathers of the successful financier's lady. The Frenchwoman is keen at a bargain, and it is amusing to watch the contests in sharpness which are for ever going forward in the multitudinous avenues of the Temple. Lace, embroidery, bonnets, under-linen, boots, furs, false hair, codced hats, swords, china, ghos, perfumeiy, glove% imttatioo jeweDeiy, stage crowns and sceptres, gdd-laced ooats, are arrayed in special avenue^ on the universal department plan. It has been said, there is nothing that adorns the human form idbidi is not to be found second-hand at the Temple. 152 IN PARIS. But the Temple is not the receptacle for Ae old clothes of the working population. It is not a place of rags. To see how the chiffotmwrs live, and deal, and drink, the inquisitive mind must be carried through the Quartier Latin to the Montagne St. G^^vidve, by the Pantheon. It is vastly improved since the days when I penetrated the cellars which the rag-pickers used for cafes, and ran the gauntlet of their drunken ribaldry in the foul alleys where they sorted the contents of their baskets. Baron Hausmann drove broad streets and boulevards through .the noisome nei^^hbourhood, and got fresh air to the College of France, the Sorbonne, and the School of Medicine, which lay, before Napoleon IIL's day, in the thick of one of the poorest neighbourhoods of the capital. The rag-pickers' quarter was also that of the students; the midnight oil was burned near where the ckiffimniet^s lamp was trimmed for his nocturnal rounds. The Pantheon is the centre, still, of the Quarter of the Schools, and to the north of it is the Fbbfic Library of St G^^vi^e (hard by the fomous old church of the l>atron saint Paris), which is well worth a visit in die evening, when it is thronged by free readers. The student-life of Paris is no longer that of Murger, Privat d'Anglemont, or Balzac. The grisette has disappeared, to begin with. The life has lost much of its old picturesqueness. If vice, as Burke tells us, loses half its evil by losing all its grossness, I am afraid that not one atom more than the half of the evil has been destroyed by the annihilation of the coarser phases of student-life in the Pays Latin. It has lost a very great deal of its bonhomie, and simplicity as well. I remember the days when a notable colony of English Bohemians inhabited the Hotel Comeille, by the Oddon, and, for a few days, I shared some of their experiences. It was when Henry Qapp (afterwatds sumamed the King of Bohemia, in New Y(»k) was of the colony. I had met him in very stiff drawing- rooms in London, where he was presented as a grave poet and the ardoit friend of slave emancipation. As Quarder-Latia student, and participator in the peculiar humours of the Hotel Comeille, he was still the grave thinker, and was rallied often for the seriousness of his demeanour, and the habit he had of taking the abuses that were rife in the world, to heart. But he was not, for all this, X 153 IN PARIS. deficient in humour; and when his friends were bidden to the marriaee of their washerwoman's daughter, he was one of the merriest at that strange and wild rejoicing. The extravagant dressing of those times is not now apparent in the students* cafts nor at their balls. The Chaumi^re has given place to the Closerie des Lilacs; the erfymerie to M. Duval's gaudy bouillon establishments; and the students are only very rough imitations of the gentlemen whom you meet on the gjnak imkvards; but they repay study at ther sdiods» or at their amusements, for they are the germs of the Fiance of the future. He who knows a litde;, and only a little, of the French people, is of opinion that they are not a hard-working race. He is in error. The pleasure capital of Europe is a place where people toil very early and very late ; and where, in the midst of the gaiety parents never forget to make provision for their children. M. Thiers, who rises between five and six, is not a singular man in this respect. Early rising is the rule with all classes. The banks and counting- houses round about the Bourse, in the Faubourgs Montmartre and Poissonniere, and in the Marais, are open earlier than those of London. The Paris clerks have more working hours and fewer holidays than English clerks have. In order to know how Paris toils, the observer must be about in the streets betimes. At seven o'clock he will see gentlemen on their way to their offices. Fsuris is astir a full hour earlier than London. To be sure^ the English* man is a quicker worker: he gets on with fewer forms and ceie- nKNiies. There is no better illustration of the drcomlocution with wfaidi Faris bysiness proceeds than is to be found in the bill depart- ment of the Bank of France^ where the gututs quietly crawl past the diffisrent cashiers' desks, and a man will patiently pass three- quarters of an hour before his turn comes to pay his bill of perhaps 200 francs ! But then the Bank of France is the bank of the French people, which the smallest tradesmen and the skilled work- men use. The distance from the Bank of France and the Bourse, through the picturesque Place des Victoires, to the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, is short. In this old street is the General Post Office, a place worth a visit, as a sample of a French Govenunent depart- 154 IN PARIS, ment. The elaboration with which a money order is issued or paid, or a letter is registered, is very striking to the observer who has been acaistomed to the swiftness of the English post office. While a crowd is standing b^xe his guickett a Paris post-office derk vrill hxM a conversation with his neighbour, or proceed with his business with the most provoking deliberation. Time is not made for him, nor, it would seem, for the people who are waiting his good pleasure. It is the ease with which all the concerns of life are transacted by the light-hearted Parisians, even to their funerals (which are of twelve categories, each category being regulated to the minutest point), that leads the superficial observer to the con- clusion that they are not hard-workers. This ease comes, in part, from a methodically-arranged life. Whereas the energetic, impro- vident Saxon lives in the present, and leaves the future to the future; the Gaul lays down the lines of his life and travels lightly along them, making always small seivings as he goes; free from care and independent in ^irit. Unhappily, are many exceptions to the general rule of thrift and independence; The Paris w(»rk-folk are not so sober as they were twenty years as loiterers in the St Antoine Quarter, by the Place de la Bastille, or at Bdfeville, or by the unsavoury banks of the Bi^vre, where the tanners work, or in the famous out- lying quarries, where the lowest of the population are huddled and hidden, will soon learn, especially on Mondays, when the workshop is forsaken for the wine-shop. Directly the head of the family becomes a wine-shop frequenter, the economy of the family is destroyed. There is no more thought about the daughter's little dot; the savings vanish, and with the first illness the first approach is made to the Assistance Publique. The French Poor-law system is admirably administered ; it may be easoly mastered. There is no prettier sight in Paris than may be seen, almost any morning, behind the Louvre, at the Mairie, by the »de of the
' deeply respected by the Parisian community, that ridicule is the general portion of the deceived husband, and that, by way of moral counterpoise, people adore their mothers. A little knowledge of French society will show the impression derived from the theatre to be a correct one, in the main. In Paris there is a universal reverence for the parental character ; the middle-aged man bears himself dutifully and respectfully towards his aged parrats, and he adores his own children, although he may be hardly on speaking terms with their mother. The coarse hnnuNtr which prevails at the Palais Royal Theatre proclaims a loose con- dition of society; it is, indeed, a £udiful reflection of this sode^'. The comedies <^ M. Dumas, JUs, at the Gymnase reveal another and mm terrible ^ase of French inmiorafity, for the demi-wumde is but an o&hoot d die grand momUt and we find tihe two on the stage vieing in eactravagance and sham^essness one with the other. In the lesser theatres the foibles and the vices of society are more bcoadly presented. According to a recent census, there are 114 cafes-concerts in Paris ; they range from the Alcazar to the Concert des Oiseaux at Menilmontant, near Pere la Chaise, and are worth visiting by the observer who wants to get near the heart of things in Paris. At the latter concert, situated in a maze of narrow and dirty streets, the very poorest of the population are to be seen listening to the songs they love best. Bdranger has penetrated even this forlorn quarter, for next to the concert-room is a wine-shop with this agii. Souvenir de B6rai^^." To the me-shop a great stove is T58 IN PARIS. attached, where customers can cook their dinners at a fixed charge of one sou per dish; the landlord acts on the shrewd calculation that he will make up for the cost of his fire with the sale of his wine and spirits. But he who cannot find time to go so £ar, or who does not care to venture into the maze of the Menilmontant quarter, can vi^t some of the poor cafl concerts, say, of the Rue Mouffetard, where the guests consume coffee and a glass of brandy for three s&ms. It is when a man has gone the round of die show-places of a great city, and seen the things his friends tell him he must see^ that he begins to feel a little at home, to shake off the dust of the tourist, and to live the life of the citizens amid whom his lines are for the moment cast. Paris, at this stage of the stranger's expe- riences, is most attractive. He has acquired the right to lounge, and lounging is to be done by the banks of the Seine with greater satisfaction to the lounger than in any other capital of which I have experience. Let me note some of the experiences to be had. The art-connoisseur and bric'a-brac hunter has always the Hotel Drouot open to hiuL In this great house of sales there is always movement, always novelty, always something worth picking up, if the buyer be a discreet and wary person. The throng of pe<^le, moreover, is an amus^ study. Is the lounger a book-worm — a bibliophile ? IxA him, in die cool <^ die nunming, saunter through the Tttilaries Gardens, wher6 the children are at play and the bonnes are indulging in passages of sentiment with soldiers, past the ruins of the palace, over die bridge, to the Quai Voltaire. From the Rue du Bac, east, to the Pont Neuf, along the parapet of the quay, are spread stores of second-hand books, in boxes; and all the length of the way he will meet students, professors, priests, and savants, fumbling over the dog's-eared treasures. A more delightful morning, to the bookish man, than that to be had over the book- boxes of the quays, I cannot conceive. Many a treasure have I carried home from them. The curious in the underground wonders of Paris must visit the sewers (even ladies may be of the party), and should certainly seek out the day — they are rare — when the Catacombs are to be ejqplored. Valleys of the shadow of death, with human bones on 159 IN PARIS, ei^ber »de i — the work <^ dealb over head and under foot — the winding passages of intenninaUe Iraigth cfaiU the Mood and opfiress the imaginatkm. But there are bright days enough above ground, over the silent city of dead men's bones. What is more enjoyable than a trip to the banks of the Seine, by Sevres, and a dinner of fritiires and omelettes in one of the bosquets on its banks ; or a matelotte at the Porte Maillot, after a stroll in the Bois ; or a dinner with the Pere Lathuile, by the outer boulevard, at the end, of the Rue d' Amsterdam? Lathuile did a wonderful business when the barriere was just on the right side of his establishment, and he could sell cheap wine that paid no octroi duty ; but he is popular still, although he has taken to glass and gilding, for his stdims are a rdief after tiiose of die great Boole^vaids. Or go to Fontenay aux Roses, or Asnidres, in the boatii^ season; or pay a visit to the peach gardens <^ Mont- reuil, or to Qiiarries» where the mushromns are grown ; or take a sly peep at the Moreau's, by the Pont Neuf, to eat her renowned ckhufis and other presoved fruits, at her gorgeous coun- ters; or arrange a trip to Saint Germain, where the cooks have dressed their spits in the forest, and half Paris is gambolling and eating under the trees — or, better still, when the old place is quiet, and you can stroll on the terrace of the castle enjoying the grand view, while your dinner is preparing in the pavilion Henri Quatre. Of course, Versailles — I think it was Walpole who called it a "huge heap of littleness" — commands more than one visit But it is a hot and dusty place, and when the Great Waters are playing it is intolerably crowded, and deficient in the power of serving good dinnefs. He who goes ibrth to see die Great Waters, if he be a man who knows what a comfortaUe dinner means, will return to Paris before he breaks his fast Let him radier trust himself to the open-air hospitality of the Moulin Rouge or Ledoyen, in die Champs Elys^es, than run die hazard of a folk in a Versailles resttmrmU, If he prefer to be in Paris, the Boulevards are before him where to choose. There is the solid dinner of Peter's, there are the exquisite cuisines of Bignon, at the comer of the Chaussee d'Antin, of the Riche, the Doree, the Cafe Anglais. For quiet, Bignon's or the Anglais is best. 1 60 IN PARIS. Brabant's, beyond, is a good cuisine ; and, in homelier French fashion, you dine well at Bonnefoy's, on the Boulevards, or at Janodet's, or the Boeuf a la Mode, in the Palais Royal, or at Voisin's, in the Rue St Honor^ He who wants a thoroughly well>cooked and well-chosen dinner, at a fixed reasonable price, may rely mpleteness not previously attained, will be another prominent attraction of the show. It is comforting to hear that the legal and municipal authorities of Paris have taken thought for the comfort and safety of their numerous expected visitors, and that the various purveyors of necessaries have resolved upon a policy of moderation in respect of charges. The whole floating population of pickpockets and thieves has been placed under arrest until the close of the Exhibition ; and the leading hotel-keepers have decreed that there shall be no advance upon ordinary charges to those visitors who board as well as lodge A A 177 THE PARHS EXHIBITION. ni tiieir houses. Tliefe will be an abundance of cheap restaurants, more or less under the control and inspection of the authorities. One of these restaurants has been erected in the Champ de Mars. It will accommodate 2,000 persons ; and its tariff has been fixed by the officials, who will take from the lessee a royalty of one franc fifty centimes for every thousand visitors to the Exhibition. It should not be forgotten, by any who visit Paris even for mere pleasure, and still less by any who participate in the great educational advantages likely to accrue from the Exhibition, that the worid is inddMed for it to Madame MacMahon. The ideai was suggested by her at the break£ist-taUe of die Elys^ and was pressed on in spite <^ meeting witii some discouragement in the first instance. It has been Madame la' Mardchale, who has never wavered in her deter- mination to render die enterprise a conspicuous success ; and it was due to bar foresight and her influence that the preparations were not suflered to languish during the prevalence of wars and rumours of wars. Whatever France and the world may gain from the display will place them under a lasting debt of gratitude to this illustrious lady. PRIVILEGED ESSAYS AND NOTICES. HUNTLEY & PALMERS, Wholesale and Export Biscuit Manufecturers, Reading, and 9, Rood Lane, London, KC— pages 185-192. ELKINGTON & CO., BIRMINGHAM, 22, Regent Street, and 45, Mooigate Street, London ; 25, Church Street, liver- pool; and St Anne's Square, Manch e ster. A Descriptive Essay by Gbor6£ Augustus Saul— /d(SKr 193-199. W. C JAY & CO., BY AFronmiENT to the Queen, a43» «4S» «47» a49» *5i» R^ent Street, Ixmdon, W.—pajga 200-203. SIR JOSEPH WHITWORTH & CO. (LIMITED), MANCHESTER. Tool^ fluid Cominesaed Steel, and Gwuk--ptiges 204, 205. MIDLAND RAILWAY COMPANY, Head Office, Derby. Service of Trains between Liveipooi and London, Hotels, Map of Line and Connections.— /^^i?^ 206-209. TIFFANY & CO., Gold and Silver Smiths, Union Square, New York,— ^^«r a 13. LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY, AND HOTELS, Description of, with Map of Line and Connections.— 214-217. CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.— J^age 218. GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY. The Best Route to the Continent, with Continental Map of Line and Connections. —^ge 319. DUBUN WHISKY, GENUINE & SPURIOUS. Aa Acoount of die Fiaods piactiaed upon Consmnen.— /^gKc 220-241. Gsa ROE & ca, DMtaiera, 157, Thomas Street, Dublin. "Old StUl" OistiUeis only.— N.a No ^lOmiSimoa the ¥Kama.—^ge 342. WM. JAMESON & OX, Distillers, Mamnihoiie Lane, DnbUn. Established a.i>, 1799. ** Old Still" ■ Dnblin Whisky otAj.—^ge 343. THE LIVERPOOL AND LONDON AND GLOBE INSURANCE COMPANY, I, Dafe Street, Ltveipool, and 7, ConihiD, Ixxidoii.^^ BANK OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, Head Office— 3, Clement's Lane, London, E.C. Branches and Agencies in Dominion of Canada • Agencies m New Yoric and San Fiancisca— 345. QUEEN INSURANCE COMPANY, Queen Insurance Buildings, Liverpool, and Gracechurch Street, {^ondcm. page 245. .RXJINART FERE & FILS, REIMS. Oiampagne Growers and Shippers.— /<3!^^ 245. HEIDSIECK & CO., REIMS, Champagne Growos and Proprietoi&— /^^^ 246. WACHTER & CO., EPERNAY, CHAMPAGNE, Panreron to Her Mtyeaty the Queen, H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and other Members of the Royal YmeStj (see Extracts of Letters).— /i^ 347. 180 PERRIER, JOUET & CO., Vineyard Proprietors and Wine Growers of Champagne, Epemay, France. — ^ge 248. KRUG & CO., Champagne Shippers. London Agents— INGUS & CUNNINGHAM, 60, Maik Lane^ 'E^C-~pagt 349. ERNEST IRROY & CO., Champayie Fioi»ietofs, Rdms, Ytnaat.'—p^ 350. JULES MUMM & CO., Champagne G^oiveis and Shippers.— 351. G. H. MUMM & CO., Champagne Growers and Shippers. Agent, EMIL QUACK, 11 Dale Street, liverpooL— />a^]f^AGNI£ COLONIALE, PARIS. CSiooohte Maiwifactm efa . / a ig t 257. T. MORSON & SON, 31, 33 and 124, Southampton Row, RnaaeD Square, London, England. Makm of Bq^one and aB Cbaokaa^—^fegts 258, 259. WILLIAM TARN & CO., Dnqiers, Costumiers, Silk Mercers, Mantle Makeis, Caipet Warehousemen, and Furniture and Bedding Manufacturers, 165 to 173, Newington Caoae- my, and 5 to 17, New Kent Road, London, &,E^-^ 360. KEEN, ROBINSON, & CO., Mustard and Patent Barley and Groat Manufacturers. Purveyors to Her Majesty the Queen and H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Established a.d. 1742.— page 261. CANTRELL & COCHRANE. (^nger Ak^ Mmend and Mcdidnal Water Ifanafiurtoiers, by Her Majesty's Rofal Letten FUait Woika— 'DobUn and Bel£u^ Iidand^-^v^ 262. DOUCET Jedns, Shirt Maker, &c, 10^ Rne Halevy, (Fbce de I'OpeiaX 263. JOHN G. McGEE & CO., Belfast, Ireland. Inventors of the "Ulster" Overcoat. Specialitks for Ladies' and Gentlemen's Travelling Garments, Perfect Protection against cold, wind, and rain. Prize Med al l is t , Gieat Fahihition, London, x85i.--^h^ 363. HUDSON & KENNEDY, Export Wine and Spirit Shippers, 11, Queen Victoria Street and 25, Budge Row, E.C. — page 263. H. LAMPLOUGH, 113, Holborn Hill, London, E.C. Proprietor oi the "Pyretic Saline.** — page 264. HOTEL DU LION D OR, RHEIMS. LOUIS DISANT, Proprietor.— 264. x8a I BINGHAM & CO., Taikns and Military Outfittats, 29, Conduit Street, Bond Street, London. — SUTTON SHARPE & CO., Printers, Publishers, and Contractors. Central Offices : 145, Queen Victoria- Street, London, E.C. — page 264. SPIERS & POND, Holborn Viaduct Hotel, London Terminus, Chatham and Dover Railway, for Families and Gentlemen. — page 265. J. BOLLINGER (RENAUDIN BOLLINGER & CO.), \ Champagne Grower and Shipper, Ay (Champagne). Agent, L. MENTZEN- DORFF, 6, Idol Lane, London, 'EJl.—page 266. F. DESSANDIER & CO., COGNAC . Agent, L. MENTZENDORFF, 6, Idol Lane, London, E.C.— 265. EDWARD & JOHN BURKE, DUBLIN, LIVERPOOL^ AND NEW YORK. Wine and Fordgn Export Bfordiants.— 367. IHLERS & BELI^ 30^ Moor Street Back Goree, Liverpool, EiqKxt Botdm ot Bass's India Pale Ale and GfUUMtVi Eata Stoat— ^o;^ 368. Huntley & Palmers 3^CUIT MANUFACTl/ft£^^ ■J 1 J DIPLOMAofHONOOR^ ^ ^ AND A GOXJ) MEDALAW!&RDED BY THE NATIONAI^ ACADEMY OP AGRICULTURE MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE, PARIS. WERE EXHIBITORS AT THE FOLLOWING EXHIBITIONS LO N D ON, I6SI&I8C2( PA R I S, 165 5 & I / Caraway Tunbndge Citron // Cheese Biscoits Cocoa Nut Drops LIST O Coifee Biscuits Combination i> (14 kinds) Coronet » Cracker // Cracknel » // Fancy " // Cup » II Toy « Crown " Cuddy » Corrant Tnnbhdge Diet Biscuits Digestive " Dessert « (16 kinds) Dover // Excursion // Fancy Sweet « (21 kinds) Fancy Machine" Fancy NieliM» Festal » Fete '/ Finger Ginger Bread Finger Bosks Filbert Biwnits Finger F BIS Fiji Biscuits Fruit V Fruit Drops Ganfaaldi BiMnta Gem 9 German Rusks Gingerbread Ginger Nuts Grissini Biscuits (Bread Straws) Inlants' Food Jamaica Biscuits JOU JOU II Knobble '/ Lemon Tunbndge Leopold Biscuits Lome /' Lunch '/ Macaroons Me Kscnits are made of tte ftieat laatariala, and from tlMir srcat wioty of Shapa maA Flammr, aeknoir. ' ° -'vr_i . 1 <3i ta m a d a yery ortenaiTe and ioenaaioffaale - -* ■ > ' Caaka aad Bona, to meet the oonrenienoeof ■M Trade and Shippers Biscuits sont composes des meilleures matieres premieres. lis se dLStinguent par leur grande facility de •OMervation, leur vari^te de forme et de goflt, et la superiority reconnue de leur fabrication, qui leur out obtenu ne vente tr^s ^tendue et toujours croissante en Angleterre, sur le Continent d" Europe, et sur tous les marches du ■Made en g^n^ral. ^^Ils sont embaH^s dans des Boites de far blanc de poids divers k partir d'une livre, et aussi en Barils et Gnsses, k la convenance des acheteurs. Bitse ISwcnits htxbtn bon Urn Ccinsttn fflattrialim angtfrrtigt tinlf Jjabtn Hurtfj liic fflannigfaltigftftt i^m lamutit iijxtn aBoi)Ignc[nnack, tit annluumtt IBaxjias^iuit iiftet ZuiitrettnnssiDtist unH tit £tsen> scifsSttiibfmMnlirlNilRMtifa^ . 1^ im JtstlanUt tinS auf allra fflarfttra Her JSStIt triangt. .1. &u tnctHm in BItd)Iui»n bon I $fun1i nnH aufbarts berpackt, togbitlitn in Smtxa ont tnttpmb wi a ten WSCnxudftn Des ^anHtls nnli Her VmtXj^. Estas Galletas son hechas de los mas finos materiales ; y per la gran variedad de sus Formas y Gustos, la bien conocida superioridad de su Fabricacion y el tiempo que se conservan, ban merecido un despacho muy considerable non. solamente en Inglaterra, ; Continente de Europa, sino tambien en todas la pioblaciones del Mundo que scan dealguna impcrtancia. Van embaladas en Cajas de Hoja de Lata de unalibi? iaglesa de peso 6 mas, 6 en Barriles 6 Cajonaa a^gon sea nas conveoiente al Comr fftadoK. ^ Y i^PPOlRTUEHT TO M.M' THE KOBEN. THE GREAT BISCUIT TOWN. IT may be said that modern Reading is built upon biscuits^ Reading-by-the-Thames, that is, flowing on its way to Windsor and London, is the principal commercial place of the Royal county, and it is a good sample of a flourishing English market town. It has its interesting past history; it figures much in English history from the time when the Danes occupied it; it is die burial-place of Henry I. ; it was residence of kings, and the scene of a grand tournament under Edward IIL, and four Parliaments have been held within its precincts. There are picturesque ruins of the olden splendours of the place stiU to be seen, especially of the Abbey; but the attractions of modem Reading, to travellers seek- ing to get a fair knowledge of England, lie in its completeness as an expression of our municipal institutions, and the vigour and variety of its commercial activities. Cattle, corn, flour, iron, beer, and biscuits, are the staples of the Royal county town; but, as we have observed, modem Reading is built chiefly upon biscuits. As HUNTLEY & PALMERS, 187 I* ; THE GREAT BISCUIT TOWN. you approach it by railway 3'ou perceive the tall i chimneys of the extraordinary factofy, whence dainty morsels J of a hundred shapes and many flavours are borne forth to the remotest corners of the earth. Seldom a ship sails from England that does not bear within his ribs a Reading biscuit The biscuit has met the tooth of every civilized race under the sun. It has become as ^miliar to the Parisian as to the Londoner. The American, who is a bom connoisseur in "cradcers/' adopts it as he travels over £ur(4)e ; and he finds it as easity in the Swiss mountains, in Italian cities, almig the banks of the Rhine, and in the ^ent old towns in Belgium, as at the Langham in London, or the Grand Hotel in Paris. You cannot get beyond the reach of it "up country" in India. John Chinaman munches it; it is known to the Daimios of Japan. So that it is not surprising people of many lands, when they reach England, and are on the tour, repair to the great biscuit town, to look at the immense factory in which exquisite machinery, as clean and dainty as the works of a lady's watch, converts flour, ^;gs, milk, and butter into cracknels, wafers, nuts. Napoleons, pearls, pic-nic% rmks, and fifi^ other appetizing forms The pnx%ious» skilfully-ordered activity of this factory, in which some two thousand men, women, boys, and giris are biscuit making aU the year toaadi aSords to the thoi^tful observer an excellent examine ci Ae results obtainable horn the concentration of mind on f one operation. The economies exhibited within the factory gates are evidence of a continuous process of thought, acting upon a single object— cheap and perfect HVRTLET A PALMERS, 188 THE GREAT BISCUIT TOWN. production. As you approach you perceive that a railway has been laid through the heart of the factory. A train of biscuits is moving out of the establishment. Overhead an aerial line carries a train of nuts and crackers across the Kennet River, which divides the groups of buildings. From the picturesque confusion of red-brick houses, a little forest of chimneys towers into the air and is feathered lightly with smoke. You enter the labyrinth of bakeries, sheds, store-rooms, and maga- zines, and you are bewildered with biscuit crates travelling up in lifts, casks sliding down to places towards the biscuit railway station ; with golden showers of aromatic nuts and cracknds, dancing of their own accord out <^ rows of ovens into baskets ; and with long processions of trays moving majestically into ovens. Then you pass into Depart- ments where men with flat wooden spades are mixing the biscuit materials (mathematically weighed, and delivered from an upper floor through tubes in revolving pans), or where the tougher material of hard biscuits is being kneaded in drums, or rolled into lengths that look like thick blanketing. You turn, and you light upon ovens that are positively raining filberts, and at hand are boys pressing biscuit crowns and other moulds, each covering his pan. Then you are introduced to rows of powerful machines that are punching out biscuits from aidless bands of spotless dough, and gently depositing them upon trays, that move in admirable order towards the ovens hard by. A little beyond is the Cracknel Department. The cracknel requires distinct machinery, for it is cast into yonder boiling cauldron, fished out with n hand nets, and plunged into cold water, before it is J ready for'the oven. All this is very daintily TLEY & PALMERS, 189 18 ea.- 1ND1J ^V'^ THE GREAT BISCUIT TOWN. -Q 6 and precisely done, and the method by which care is insured in the baking is as ingenious as it is I equitable. To each oven is attached a premium. There is a J baker to every group of ovens. For every pound of biscuits he spoils he IS fined. The baker we questioned observ^ed that "last week he spoiled biscuits to the extent of sixpence;" which would be deducted from premium on good baking. We might be led by ournose to the department of macaroons and their congeners. The pungent; spicy odoun are those of Araby Boys cuttii^ mounds of blanched ahnonds machinery, others plant- ing them upon the macaroons ; men arranging these ladies' favourites iqi^pans filled with tiie creamy substance that wiU adhere to them as ' ri^? «f «tafia buttons or nuts, occupy an attractive comer of tiie mighty fectwy. Then we pass the Cocoa-nut Depart- ment, of sweet and cod odour, and so past pails of shelless eggs and vast cans leon IIL, an exquisite sOver casket in niello and damascene; die famous enamelled chess-table of Herculaneum pattern; the swrtomi dt taUe composed of a plateau, ^ergiu, and candelabra, designed m a pure Greek style of art (a testimonial from die Midland Railway Company to W, P. Price, Esq.), and last but not least, the fac-simik of a widcerworic basket filled with natural ferns, foliage, and grasses, coated, by means of dec- tricity, with gold, silver, and copper, the original of which was presented by the hands of Miss Elkington to H.R.H. the Princess of Wales, on the occasion of Her Royal Highness's visit to Birmingham, in November, 1874. The visitor may now, through the politeness of the firm, be privileged to pass beyond the portals of the show-rooms, and to explore the inner penUraMa of actual manufacture. Order, system, neatness, and cleanliness are the chief, features of these immense industrial dqiartments. The processes are multitudinous; the parts to be put togedier wdl*nigh defy enumeration; die names of the tools emi^oyed are legion ; but there is a place for everything, and everything is in its place. Fn»n 1800 to 2000 woric-people— artisans mainly <^ a very superior class — must be employed in these gigantic atditn: yet the great army of Labour work together quietly, steadily, and harmoniously. Thus the scattered parts of production gradually but steadily assimilate into a compact and perfect Whole, which excites the admiration and tends to the convenience of a Public who often bestow but little thought on the labour, in^jcauity, and dexterity by which all these processes, 195 mechanical, chemical, and manipulative, have been brought together now to produce so exalted a Final Cause as an *' Invention Trophy" or a *• Milton Shield." Let me now induct you into the art studios and modelling rooms of Messrs. Elkington. No gdid, silver, or rainbow-hued enamels will here fascinate the eye or giatiiy the critical . In lieu thereof day, plaster- o£-Paris, and red modelling-wax; cartridge-paper, charcoal, draw- ii^-chalks, modelling-tools^ compasses, and measuring rules surround the embryos and the craves d the great trophies you have admired in tiie aiiow-ioom. A tribe of busy art-woikers are busily emploiyed, widi skilful fingers or wtdi cunning^ fiishioned spatula, fiiduoning plastic day and wax into models of the things of beaitty that are to be. Faint spectres of race-cups, hazy sketdies of diallenge shidds, first notions of appliquk Renais- sance mirrors, eidolons of candelabra, phantoms of caskets, and goblets destined to decorate the saloons of princes, the halls of municipalities, and the cabinets of connoisseurs loom vaguely from work-table, easel, and drawing-board. The apparition of a tea-pot in clay, the shade of a side-dish, the wraith of a coffee-biggin, the ignis fatuus of a cruet-stand, are dimly apparent. And now I should counsel the studious visitor to dismiss for a moment from his mind all the impressions he has derived from his recent contemfdation of the sumptuous examples (tf the genius of tiie artistic des^;iier and modeller, and <^ the weU-instmcted craft of the muri/abtr. For the nonce he must think no more of Benvenuto CeOmi or Bfaao Fin^fuerra ; and he should Ibfget imaginative or fn4r*»*^^ fine art, and be prepared only to survey the marvels of MedMaucal aad manwal labour. Tmmenae ranges of woriesliops lie before him. The socmd of hammers will deafen his ears. The con- tinuous ** thud" of the stamping-press will be audible to him. Legions of swart artisans will flit round him. The fumes of acids will arise; and, although he will still be in the regions of gold and silver, the sands of Pactolus will be in strictly chemical solution ; and Plutus, god of riches, will be under the sway of Galvani and Volta, monarchs of electric science. Sterner still will be the acquaintance that he must make with the genius of mechanics. He will be ushered into the great Stamp-Shop, the ■aunmers in which will give blows of the force of twenty tons, m wiU deMead with delicate and gentle pereMwon just powerful 196 enough to crack a filbert. He will see the stamping-presses which raise and sink the German-silver blanks of metal into all kinds of embossed shapes, by means of sted dies. He will learn that spoons and forks are not stamped, but rolled, in order that they may possess greater strength. The die-sinking shop should prove a mine of technical information to him ; and in the braziering department he will be amazed by the fiery puissance of the Elking- ton Blow-Pipe in soldering pieces of electro-silver together. Then he may watch the mystery of "filling-up" candlesticks, and the exceeding artfulness of mounting and raising ornaments. He will visit shops full of engravers, full of chasers, full of finishers and burnishers. Then he will ascend into another set of ateliers^ where he will see carried out to their minutest details — now by veteran art workmen, now by skilful young men,— now by quick-fingered young women — all those eUborate processes connected with the colour- ing and firing of the cloisonni and ckamp-levi enamels in the show-rooms. But the visitor must not tarry long among the tracers, the wire-benders, the solderers, and the finishers of the enamel work-rooms. He must descend ; for the voice of a spirit calls him away— that spirit has hovered continually over the premises of the Elkingtons— it is the spirit of Electra. You are in the Hall of the Vats, and in the presence of the most powerful galvanic battery in the world. Peer into the dim waters and you will discern, suspended from the bars, the plates of gold and silver which, under die operation of electricity, are to give off portions of their precious contents to the objects with which they are connected. The articles are suspended by means of wires on metal rods, and so arranged in each compartment as to eiqx)se an equal amount of sur&ce to receive the deposit of silver, or gold. The operation of plating is so nicdy regulated that the rate at which the predous metal is being deposited can be exactly as- certained ; and the considerable quantity of twenty-four ounces of silver can, so to speak, be veneered on to the surface of the metal, perfectly smooth and extremely hard, in the course of one hour. This thickness of silver accounts for the great durability of the articles manufactured by the Messrs. Elkington. When the article has been in the bath a sufficient length of time it is taken out, rinsed in cold water, and dried. After that it is carefully weighed, and the correct thickness of silver on the artide is thus checked and 197 duly r^fisteied, for upon diis test depends the wear of the article. Afber the woik has received its assigned proptMtion o£ silver it is forwarded to die finishing dqiartment; and here it may be stated that the smaller the quantity of silver deposited the more easily is tiie object finished. The siuface of the metal before platii^ being made very smooth by polishing, a small coating of silver is easily burnished ; but when a thick coat of silver is put on, the surface becomes rougher, and will not take a high polish until the article has been hammered all over. The workman closes all the pores and produces an even surface by assiduous hammering, and this has another advantageous effect, since it makes the article harder, and gives it an additional prospect of long wear. When the *' bright hammerer" has completed his office, the articles are sent to be either burnished or "handed up." The latter process is performed in the same manner as that which the silversmith adopts in toning kis work, and is dmie by the hand with rouge or fine oxide <^ iron. All fint-class work is thus **ccAmind'' after it is boraished, a» the efiect is much dearer, and the silver is made much smoother. In the noble science <^ galvano-plastics, or electro-deposited broore^ IfesBis. Elxington have attained magnificent results. In their show-rooms you will have seen facsimile reproductions, in electro-deposit, of the statues of Edmund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith, modelled by the late J. H. Foley, R.A., and which have been erected in Dublin to the memory of the most illustrious of Irish statesmen and orators, and the most genial of Irish poets and humorists. Messrs. Elkington have also reproduced in electro-deposit, an antique group, discovered at Her- culaneum, the subject of which is Hercules d»troyii^ the .^nooiaa st^ (the Third Labour). I have not ventured to describe in fullest detail the maim- fiicture of spoons and forks^ for the reason that if this essay have any nml at all, diat mocal must be ck»ely connected wilh the Spoons and Forics question. When you have duly thanked all the polite aad intdligait managers, heads of departments, art directors, ddOed artisans, and overseers, who have explained to yon the contents of Ae diflferent celb of this wonderful hive, wend your waqr home, and bear this Cardinal Fact in mind. The wofks of Messrs. Elkington should, to the discriminative observer, 198 possess two aspects, closely allied one to the other, yet thoroughly independent each from each. The firm of Elkington have pursued two branches of industry: — The first Artistic and iEsthetic; the second Industrial and Commercial. On the Artistic side of their operations I have endeavoured, as earnestly as I could, to dwell. I have striven to show how the present members of the firm, carefully following in the footsteps of their estimable Founder, have never ceased in their endeavours to exalt that which was formerly a merely mechanical trade into a most beautiful and ennobling vocation. I have tried to explain to the reader how, v by unflinching perseverance in seeking for artistic talent iHieresoever thait talent could be found, they have secured the services of a staff of modellers and designers equal to all and second to none of those famous practitionecs who are die glory of Paris and* <^ Vienna. I have shown how, by bringing about a happy union between Graphic and Plastic genius and the delicate scientific processes which the Elkingtons have discovmd or have developed, they have succeeded in producing marvels of art manufacture, hitherto only to be found in the cabinets of mil- lionaire collectors. It has been my aim, in fine, to demonstrate what this firm has done for Art, and to vindicate their claims to be classed as teachers of the Elevated and the Beautiful. Now, itt conclusion, I elect to regard the firm as Commercial producers of essentially-useful articles, for nowhere in the whole world can be found a collection of plate, whether in solid silver or dectro, as in the show-rooms of the Elkingtons, at Birmingham, or at thdr branch houses in London, Liverpod, and Manchester. Do you, 0! Reader, fond of domestic oorafbrt; remember die badly-soldered candlesticks, the leaky tea-pots, the blunt forics, the heavy spoons, and the plated salvers which showed the copper beneath ? The firm of Elkington have radically reformed this dreary state of things. Their energy, skill, and inexhaustible ■ fertility of resource have ministered to the artistic enjoyment and the corporal bien ttre not only of their own countrymen but of the whole civilized world. They have shown that it is possible to produce an article of domestic use, which shall be at once beautiful in design, solid in material, excellent in durability, and moderate in price. Such Art-manufacturers, I take it, have somewhat of a right to be considered as Benefactors to the civilization of their epoch. 199 MOURNING. e TO indite a complete, or even a tolerably compendkms histoiy of Mourning Garments in all ages and in all countries, ivonld be^ obviously, a task very sl^dy inferior in magnitade and d^Scoltyto that of composing a complete chronide ace at our command, to trench upon tiie province of tiie Kanch^ tiie Fairholts. the Quicherats, and the « Bibliophiles Jacobs" who have written so learnedly and so exhaustivdy upon the annals of Dress. It wiU be suffiaent for our purpose to mark tiiese fects:--tiiat what we term modem civilization has, so fu- as Western Europe is concerned, accepted three colours— Bhick, Whiter and Videt-as symbolical of the sorrow we fed for tiie dqarted.^ It msqr be again expedient to point oiittiial; many centuries before Paris became ti ie chosen metropolis of IT ^7' adduces as an instance of the afifecdon of Charles 300 the world of fashion, the head-quarters of the Moc/e were fixed at Milan in Lombardy (tiie ancient Mediolanum), the traditions of whose ancient supremacy as respects feminine apparel still survives in our word " Mfllinery," and which to this day retains a faint tinge of her former- sumptuary glories, in not very extensive but undeniably tasteful manufactures of black silks, the certainly ingenious idea of a Magasin de Deuil, or Emporium, specially afforded to the display and sale of Mourning Costumes, has long been held to be exclusively and originally French ; but our refined and quick-witted neighbours have, to speak the plain truth, originated very few things (the father of French cookery was the German physician to Francis I., assisted by the Italian Cardinal Camp^^gio) ; and the Magasin de Deuil is but a brilliant and elaborate adaptation of the old Mercerie de lutto of the Italian cities. Continental ideas may be slow to reach this essentially conservative country; but when they do find acceptance with us they rarely fail, wttiun a brie! poiod, to attain that vast extension of capacity and that solidity of magnificence whidi are so characteristic of the English people. Such extension and such development could scarcely be exhibited in a more marked degree than in tiie London General Mourning Warehouse, 243, 245, 247, 249 and 251, R^nent Street, an establishment which dates from so fiur back as the year 1841, and n^ch, during tiie lengthened period whidi has ekpsed since its foundation, has never ceased to enlarge its sphere of action, to extend its resources, to complete its scheme of organization so as to serve its patrons at once quiddy, satis£au:torily, tastefully and cheaply, until it has become, of its kind, a mart well nigh unrivalled and unique, both for the quality and the quantity of its commodities and tiie widdy em- bracing nature of its attributes. Here, indeed, we see the advantages of the union between Continental fancy, symmetry, and artistic perception, and British keenness of practical purview and ISberality of enterprise ; thus the result has naturally been that fordgners have been tl^ first to admit that Jay's London General Mourning Warehouse is in no sense an imitation, or a replica^ of even the most elaborate of the Magasms de Dmil on the Boulevards, but that it presents so many amdiorations of former schemes and so many original and thoroughly Ei^;lish amplifi- cations of bygone ideas, as to stand alone : — to become a mart for mourn- ing suigenens, and one the arrangement and ordomiance of whidi tiie leading commercial houses on the Continent might profitably imitate. We find that the spacious and handsomely decorated premises in Regent Street, occupied by the Messrs. Jay, are divided for the requirements of business, the more efficient display of fabrics and tlie D D 201 general convenience of patrons into numerous sectional and distinctive Departments. For example there is the section of Modes, or Millinery, properly so termed, in which any variety of Mourning bonnet, hat, cap, or other headgear of the coiffure class can be viewed, chosen, ordered, or tried on ; and herein not only deep mourning is found to be predominant, but coiffures de demi deuil are found to admit, both in the colour of the fundamental fabric, and in such accessories as flowers, feathers, gauze, and ribbons, a delicate varia- tion of the tone of grey, violet, mauve, lilac, and pensee. To this section succeeds the highly important Mantle Department, and the Atelier for Dressmaking. There, superposed on the deepest mourning, or on the subordinate mourning hues, lace and other ornamentations display their graceful influence. It cannot be too emphatically pointed out that the article of Black Silks, being pre- eminently the speciality of the House, the Messrs. Jay have always devoted, and continue to devote their very best energies to secure an ample supply for the use of their patrons of a fabric at once elegant and durable, and which is always in season and always in fashion. No sooner does an alteration take place in the Lyons market than envoys of the House are at once despatched to the spot to take advantage of the change; and in the commercial intelligence of Continental Journals the phrase — ''La Maison Jay de Lojidres a fait de forts achats'' — frequently and significantly points to the influence of the extensive operations of the Messrs. Jay on the French Silk Market. Their system is one from which they never swerve. It is to buy the commodity directly from the Manufacturers, and to supply it to their patrons at the very smallest modicum of profit, compatible with the legitimate course of trade. In their vast stock every grade in the Silk manufacture is represented, from the cheaper fabrics to the superb productions of the £unoiis House of Bonnet et Ol \ and, in short, the most complete arrange- ments are made fully to satisfy those who require that the Silks supplied to them should combine brilliancy of hue with durability of texture. In the class of Mantles, must naturally be ranged the Mourning Shawls. The materials for mourning costumes must always virtually remain unchangeable; and few additions can be made to the list of silks, paramattas, crapes, cashmeres, grenaditus and tulles as fabrics. They, and their modifications must be ever in fashion, so long as it continues fashionable to wear mourn- ing at all ; but fashion in design, construction and embellish- ment may be said to change, not only every month, but weU 303 nigh fswet wed^. That which may be all the rage to-day, may hediseaidedvto-momywj the costume, which shields the form of Beaiity in July— may be cast aside in August. It will be sufficient to observe that in this, perha^ the leading and mnst serviceable portion of Messrs. Jay's enterprises. Dressmaking is r^^acded from four distinct points resentitivet» the recipients of orders for mourning, or the bearers of the re- quired commodities themselves to distant patrons; and it is by no means infrequent to meet, in first-dass railway carriages on our great lines, on the quarter-decks of steamers on the Scottish rivers a id lochs— even to those of the remotest Highlands— or on a return voyage in one of the magnificent steamslups of the Cunard Line, the courteous and experienced employis of the House of Jay, all bent on carrying out their misskm— which is, naturally, "Mourning"— with celerity, with tact, and with discrimination. 203 TOOLS, FLUID COMPRESSED STEEL, AND GUNS. npHE true i^aae and the power of accurate measurement form the bass of an important mechanical operations, and as accuracy of measDranent dqpends on the employment of true surfaces, the true i^bne is the most important appliance in every engineer's shop where work of a high class is carried on. True planes were first exhibited by Sir Joseph Whitworth in 1840, at the meeting of the British Association at Glasgow. The surfaces then shown were true when each plate rested on its three points, but when it was suspended by its two handles for the purpose of being applied to the work, the plate, although stroi^ly supported by ribs, was strained. The distortion which took {dace in this postticm was appreciable when the plate was of lai^ dimensioas. To obviate this distordoo. Sir Joseph Whitwordi has htaiy introduced an heza^^onal surfiure i^ate, idiich, being sus- pended firam the same Hme points on which it rests, is as true ^Am applied to the woric as it is when resting on these three points. The new i^ates are made of different sizes, ranging from 5 to 40 incfaes across the flats of the hexagons. The measuring instrument was designed subsequently to the introduction of the true planes, as it was found that by the aid of the latter the most minute differences of size could readily be ascertained. In 1 85 1 a machine with a standard yard of end measure^ and by which one-millionth of an inch could be accurately measured, was shown at the Great Esdubition. It is of ^ greatest importaaoe in OMistructuig- machmes to be able to measure with extreme accuracy, in order that the parts wUdi wofk together may be of die exact diameter which eiperience has proved to be the bat The Wytwortli system of rifles and guns was worked out from SIR JOSEPH WHITWORTH & CO., LIMITED, Gboillaa Stin^ MaiusheBter. 204 1855 to 1857, and the great success that was achieved was in a great measure due to the accuracy obtained by means of the true plane and of accurate measurement. The same system is carried throughout, and is identical for the rifles which fire a projectile of 480 grains, and for the 35 ton 12 inch guns which fire for penetration projectiles we^ng 1250 lbs. To construct guns capable of firing such enormous projectiles it was necessary to obtain an absolutdy trustworthy material, which should combine the necessary strength with the requisite ductiliQr. Ductfle steel, if perfecdy sound, possesses these qualities in a greater degree than any other metal, but by' die ordinary method n- dnent of Europe, on application, from Messrs. Cook, Son, & Jenkins, 261, Broadway, New York. Saloon carriages are provided on the Midland system for parties of seven or more first-class passengers on notice being given at the Central Station, LiverpodL or at St Pancras, London. The magnificent Grand Hotel, St Pancras, probably the finest in Europe, contains nearly 400 Bedrooms, and provides most spacious and sumptuous aooommodation in its Coffee, Reading, Drawing, and Private Rooms. Every information can be obtained from the Offices at Derby, or at any of liie principal towns on the Midland S3rstem. JAMES ALLPORT, Derby, Dece aider, iS;6. General Mamger, 207 MIDLAND RAILWAY. KEW AND PICTURESQUE ROUTE LIVERPOOL AND LONDON, Through the Peak of Derbyshire and Vale of Matlock. A REGULAR SERVICE OF EXPRESS TRAINS /s now ruHning between Liverpool and London, by this Route, as follows LIVERPOOL (Mid. Sta., Randi^ St)dep. LONDON (Pt. Panoras) an WEEK DA7S. a.ni. 9 o - 55 CLin. lo 45 4 '5 1 noon. 12 O 5 50 1 p.m. 2 35 p.m. 4 p.m. 10 40 5 15 4 10 5 LtVERFOOL (Mid. Sta., Randi^ St)arr. a.m. 5 15 IOS5 a. m. lO o 3 45 noon. 12 6 p.m. 3 15 9 p. m. 5 10 35 night. 12 6 p.m. 2 50 8 55 Tttase Times may be variable from Month to Month, for which see Company's Time Tables. The any Steamer from America, for FUTI or more First Class Passengers. VTben this accommodatiga ia dMttad, and flMB reanisite numl)er of Passengers, a Telegram should he sent from Qneenstown to the ¥imn. lin»tj Bafiway Company will ran a Special Express Train from Liverpool to London immediately on the anival of ■ * "• ■ ~ 1 Pa ~ .. . r . .. sen Bahelagh Street, Liverpool, naming the hour at which the Train is required to be ready. Xhe Midland Company's Trains running between Liverpool and London pass through the most interestine ptrtim ^tke PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE md VALE OP MATLOCK. PULLMAN DRAWING ROOM CARS ARE ATTACHED TO TEX TRAINS LXAVIMG LIVERPOOL for LONDON at zo^ a.m. and 12.0 noon, AND LONDON for LIVERPOOL at 12.0 noon ^aA so p.111. PULLMAN SLEEPING. CARS ARK RUN BY TUB NIGHT TRAINS LBAYIMG LIVERPOaL a£ ZCMO and LONDON at Z2 o'clock. The ChwEc for a Se«t ia d>e Donring Room Can is 3s. 6d., and far « Bath in Slwapit Can 6i., m m1<&mb to 1^ First Class Railway Fare. The MIDLAND STATION AT LIVEBPOOIi is situate in the centre of the principal business thoroughfares, and close to the Adelphi, Washing^ton, and other principal Hotels. The MIDIjAND GRAND HOTEL, one of the largest in Europe, adjoins the Station at ST. PANCSAS, and Visitors to London will find it replete with every convenience. The Station and Hotel are situate in the Euston Koad, London, and there is commTiniaattOtt bolfc IbgrXall* way and Omnibus every few minutes between the City and West End. For Map showing the principal Districts to which there is Direct Communication by Midland Railway, see other side; ari for General Train Service see Time-Tables, which may be had on Ikard the American Steamers, and at all First Clasi Hotels. JAMES ALLPORT, GMNSMAL MANAGER, SB 209 TIFFANY & CO., UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK. THE fH i Wi i h ii Krt of Mean. Tawjorr, In UBkm Square^ Neir Toih^ it one iriHch Amdi be impeded bf evcij matot to tbe Uailed Stalet of America. It comams Ae htgalt aod moH mdndde coneete of Wedts ef Ait^ in Jowdliay, Metal, Lacquer, Porcelain and Glaai^ ^MA haa ever been bm#t togetber in cay Coontrf; and k difien from the European houses vMdi aie '* " ^^^ is ■asfin' business in the very notewoilby characteristic that it also contains a large assortment of useful and ornamental goods m Cutlery, Leather-work, and Stationery, — «D remarkable for the beauty and completeness of their artbtic finish, and all pur- chasable at prices which bring them well within the reach of those who are only moderately wealthy. The general result of this combination is that visitors who desire to procure costly articles will find the richest gems and the most elaborate gold and tShrtat work awaiting their selection; while those whose means are less anqile may equally enjoy the pleasture of leasdng their eyes upon art treasures such aa CM MMhtwi dee be aeen, and, at tbe same time, may bring away some useful at a ood baldly eaceediog wbat diey would be charged fx tbe most and poDMtive mglmeai at aaj odier pboes wbcfe mamiiartmes of tbe aae to be obtuned. Tbe fs t aW i rfim ent occupies tbe sot toon of a magnifioent boose &ciog mpou Union Square, and having a side entrance into Fifteenth Street The basement is devoted to vaults and safes, so constructed as to be both fiieiaoof and thiefpioo^ and in which valuables may be lodged for safe custody ; the owners bavii^ dio liir additioiud guarantee of an insurance upon the value of their HA p^ j^g The ground floor contains the department for jewellery, plate, and presentation pUiie; as weU as those for stationery and leather goods, fo' a variety of miscellaneous 3IO articles, and for the reception and registration of things left for repair. On entesiug, the jewellery will be found in front and on the right hand of the visitor; and it comprises every conceivable kind of personal ornament in gold and predons stones — the latter, in many in^~^, being absolutely of tbe first beauty and water; and die settings, bodi bi their oijglnality and tbcsr artistic tnidifiifaieai» being wmAj of tbe gent wUcb tbey enshiine. Tmast still onwards^ tbe caaea to left and ligbt contain gold and aSver pbite, bo^ in fiam forms for ordtnaiy table use, and also in emy variety of costly pieces for deoocition. Among tbeae diings it wQl be found dnt the spirit of Japanese Ait baa been largely utilised, while at the same time it baa heea so modified as to be broi^t into full harmony with the requiremoits of American and of European civilization; and to afibrd, in the hands of American workmen, results of the most striking kind. The repoussee silver should also receive especial notice, much of it being unequalled both in design and execution, and the many yachting and other competitions of America having afforded great scope, by reason of the numerous articles which are required for prize and presentation purposes, for the development of art of this description to its highest limits. In the scanty vgaxst which is here available, the departmoits for leather goods, cutlery, stationery, and fimcy artides genoally, can onty be me nt ioned as ezteing. Tbe wpptx floors are raidered omvaiiendy accessible by a luxurious elevator, and tbqr differ fiom the floor bdow m rontaining mainly thmgs whidi are c£ fovrifl^ manufacture. On the second floor will be found an assemblage of Ixooses which is widioat paiaDel in the world, and wiiidi contains many of the moat precious works of Barfa^dienne's aidier, induding not a fow for iriudi, on aoooont of tibeir ptioe^ it would scarody have been possiUe to find porchaaers in Europe. There is abo an absolute museum of the most exquisite qtedmena aoooidlDg to location. THE TABLE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED. BEINQ THE SAME TO ALL. A radiielion vrW b« atade fmn fhe above Prices to Partios remaining a Week or more. DESCRIPTION OF THE GRAND PACIFIC HOTEL. Cod of Building Cott of Furniture He^ht of Building Size of Buildii^ (Four Fionts) Nnmber of Rooms &rita of Room^ with Baths, flomtcctuig ... ... Siseof Fsrloois .. &C., . ^1,300,000 ^360,000 130 feet 250 100x25 130x60 Size of Ladies' Ordinary Size of Ladies' Promenade Size of Office Rotunda Size of Exchange ... Size of Kitchen Length of MUn Halls Width of Main Halls Billiard and Bar Rooms Entire Frontage 60 feet square. 130x30 feet. ■001*60 M 12 „ 80x80 „ 1050 THs fMgntfi^ent Hotel occupies an entire square opposite t/u Federal Building, is in the centre of Chicago^ and is rtpUU with all the ee^^ris 4^ a fint-dau En^ish HOel. The Ventilation of the Hotel is perfeet, having every modem improvement. A SPECIAL FEATURE OF TURKISH, ELECTRIC, RUSSIAN. AND VAPOUR BATHS U CONNECTED WITH THE IIOTEU rOHN B. DRAKE 6- CO., «i3 THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY. 1HS LQIINHI AMD MCHrTH WESIEKR HOTEL, UME STREET, LIVERPOOL -J0«- PASSENGERS to and from the United States are conveyed, in Liverpool, direct to the above magnificent Hotel, and in London to the Euston Square Hotel. One is on the platform and the other on the station premises. Both are the property and under the management of the wealthiest of English Railway Companies. The traveller arriving from the States will find a short stay in Uveipod mefid and mteresdng as the port next in importance to London ; while OB Mt WKf to tte great metropolis he can bieak his journey at Leamington, and is liie wj htnt. of Shakapeare^ coontiy he maj atndy the finest examples of die feodal aidiileclnie of oKaent England, and obtam hn first inqicessiont of modem lifis and manners. A fiwhion a bie watering-phoe, Leambglon has hr nei^iboais Warwick town and castle, Kenilworth, and Stratfofd-npcw-Ayon. The London and North Western Railway system, which has tto headquarters at London, is the most influential in the United Kingdom. The Company has 1600 miles of road, and a capital of ;^65,582,365 sterling, equal to 325,195,35a dollars. Its route is the best and fastest between Liverpool and London. Sleeping Cars have recently been added to the night trains. In addition to this ^edality, 214 which is quite a new fisitare ci English travellings salo(» carriages can be attached to any train oa reasonable notice being given to Mr. Junes Shaw, ^ dktrict siqier- intendent at lime Street For parties tiaveUii^ tog^ier fimn Liverpool to any part of the Kingdom the saloon carriage has many advantages of comfiMt and convenience cmnpared with the ordinary compartments. The London and North Western line may be regarded as the first of English railways, for it was originally that ^unous Liverpool and Manchester line which was the outcome of the mechanical genius of George Stephenson. Since those early days of locomotive traffic the Company have extended their o;^rations in the truest spirit of English enterprise. Uidr Gfomd Servtee to Scotiand and Holyhead is nigarded as a manel of railway ma;uigement. HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, ON Hu nRQuurr jookmeys to scotlamo^ ALWAYS TRAVELS BY LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN, Whose systems take in the loveliest scenery of Great Britain. For ezampd^ die line traversed by the Iiidi mail fixxn Liverpool passes over the oeletHated viaduct and bridge at Runcorn, and gives die travdler vuws (A the Menai Straits, with tl» fiunous Inidges o£ Telford uid &!^henson, Ctmmwf Casde^ Great Orme's Head, the Vale of Clwyd and Qiester. The express trains of the Company are known for their speed and punctuality. The mail from Holyhead to London runs 264 miles, with few stoppages on the road, in six hours and forty-five minutes, and trains from Liverpool to London in five hours. The Company has central offices in Manchester and Birmingham, in addition to its administrative departments in London and Liverpool, where every information concerning rates, routes, and traffic can be obtained at all times. Thiouj^ tidc^ for Paris and other principal dries can be obtained at Liverpool (Lime Street Staticm), available by the various routes soudi of London to the continent of Europe. Full informarion with reference to all matters of mterest connected with conti- nental travel can also be obtained in London at Messrs. Gaze & Sons, Tourist OSBat, No. 142, Strand. Mr. George Findlav is the head of the Traffic Administration, Mr. G. P. Neele is the Chief Passenger Superintendent, and Mr. Thomas Kay the Chief Good Manager. These gentlemen may be addressed at the Euston Station, London. ai5 7« ' I I t LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY. and Canadian Tourists, on arrival at Queenstown or Londonderry, will find that tte IRISH MAIL SERVICE, id Holyhead (which is anu^ed to run in connection with the anhral of the AiHetiCM Steamers), affords the most expeditious means of reaching LONDON, LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, EDINBURGH, Glasgow, aiid all parts of England, Wales, & Scotland. A SLEEPING SALOON Is attached to the Night Irish Mail Trains between Holyhead and London vx both diiections» and beitlia can be secui«d by a payment of Five ShUlingi in addition to the Ordinaiy Pint Class Far& A Cooi^ttt* Btent is ^wcia&y rosenred for Ladies. AT LIVERPOOL This Company have a large ud commodious Hotel— **THE NORTH WESTERN,"— «djoiniiig tfie Line Street Station, whence Express and Mail Tnuns for Londcm and all principal towns leave at fteoneat intervals. This Hotel contains upwards of 200 Bedrooois, with spacious CMfee-ioom availiUe farLadktand Geatkao^ Drawing-room, Reading and Writing Romis, Billiard and Smolring Room. THE LONDW AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY IS THE SHORTEST ROUTE BBTWKEM LIVERPOOL & LONDON. The Train Service between Liverpool and London is as under: — WEEK DAYS. STJNTDAYS. Liverpool — a.m. a.m. a. ni. a. m. noon. p.m. p.m. p.m. p.m p m. p.m. a.m. a.m. p.m p.m. p. m. (Lime StrMl)M~~>(iep. 3 3 4S 7 20 9 15 II 13 .45 4 5 10^50 II 10 3 45 II 04 10 50 10 45 London— (EmUa Slatien>M.arr. 8 15 9 20 la 50 2 15 s 30 7 lO 8 o. 9 10 15 4 5 5 30 9 20 4 5 5 30 Mon. Mon. 5 9 3° only. ex. 1 London — a.m. a.m. a.m. a.in. a.m. a.m. noon. p.m.| p.m. p.m. a.m. p.m.l p.m. (Euston Station)»..arr. 5 IS 7 15 7 30 , 9 10 "° 12 a 4S| S 9 »5 to 5 9 IS Liverpool — (Linne Street) dep. 10 30 12 25 I 25 a 45 3 4 4 = I ' ■ : ■ A SALOOI CAEEIAGE * 1st & 2nd Class only, Is attached to the il.o a.m. Train from Liverpool, and the 12.0 noon from London daily for the use of First Class I'assengers, at Ordinary Fares. FARES:— First Class, 29s.; Second Class, 2\s. Third Class, i6s, gd. A SLEEPING SALOON Is also run daily between LIVERPOOL and LONDON by the Tndn leaving Liverpool at 11. 10 p.m. (11x45 p.ai. on Siaa^^), and from London by the Train Leavingat 9.15 p.m., extra chuse 5s. (in addition to the ordinary First Class fare for each berth occupied). At the London Terminus, Passengers will find First Class Accommodation at tJie Company's Eustm and Vtcbtria Hotels^ facing:: the Eustm Station. LUGGAGE. — First Class Passragers are allowed 1 20 lbs. free ; over that weight, the charge is i^d. per lb. Second CHass Fass^igexs aie allowed 100 lbs. free. G. FINDLAT. Chief Traffic Manager's Office EraroM Sriav^, May, 1878. F F 217 CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. "O Caledonia! stem and wild, I Land of brown heath and shnggy wood, Med nurse for a poetic child, I Land of the mountain and the flood 1 " The Caledonian Railway, which has been selected as the route for the Royal Mails, on account of the directness of its course, is also the connecting link between England and the loveliest scenery of the North, its grand passes, its romantic glens, its battle-fields feunous in history and immortal in fiction. The line commences at Carlisle, unites Edinburgh and Glasgow, and proceeds, by way df Stirling, to Perth, Dundee, and Aberdeen. Near Perth it enters into that Highland system which leads through the magnificent Pass of Killiecrankie to Inverness, and round the Western forths to the Ord of Caithness, where, bending inland, it passes through Strath Halladale to reach the wildest Moors of Scotland, and terminates in two divisions at Wick and at Thurso — witiiin si^t of Duncansby Head and of the Orkney Islands. From point to point the main lines are connected, by branches, by wdl-appointed coaches, or by luxurious steamers,^ with the places on either side which are most attractive to visitors; and convenient tours are arranged to meet all the ordinary require- ments and wishes of travellers. The trains which run to and fixwn Carlisle are in direct ccmnection, through the London and North Western system, with Loiklon (Euston Station), Birmingham, Man- diesler, Leeds, and Liverpool. On the Firth of Clyde the steamer Imia meets the Caledonian trains at Greenock to convey passengers to Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, the Kyles of Bute, Tarbert, Oban, lona, Staffa, Ballachulish, Glencoe, Fort William, Caledonian Canal, the Falls of Foyers, Inverness, and the Isle of Skye ; and other steamers proceed to Loch-Long, Lochgoil, Inverary, Kilmun, Blair- mm, and Anan. Farther n<»th, among many other scenes of interest, the Coach tours cover the classic ground of the " Lady of the Lake,'* the Trosachs, Loch Katrine, and Loch Lomond ; St Fillan's "blessed spring" and Loch Earn; Loch Tay and Tay- mouth Castle; and the place of the Massacre of Glencoe; all of them localities in which the genius of the Wizard of the North has Idi its deepest footprints. Full particulars may be obtained from the time tables and programme of Tours issued by the Company; and it may be mentioned here that tourists are allowed to break the long journey at suitable places, and that sleeping- cars run through between London and Glasgow. JAMES SMITHELLS, GmtnU Manager CMMMomuM Railway CoMPAmr's Otficbs, Glasgow, 1877. 218 GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY. CONTINENTAL MAP. SsE Pagb 219. li HARWICH, THE GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY COMPANY HAVE not only shortened the distance between England and the Continent by means of fast trains and steamers, but they have done all that is possible to make the voyage comfortable. What the great ocean steamers have done for Indian and American voyagers, the vessels of the Great Eastern have now done for travellers between England and the Continent. Small steamers, which promote mal-de-mer, have been abolished, and in their place they have, on the Harwich route, boats worthy of the age. The latest additions to the fleet, the Princess of Wales and the Claude Hamilton, are steamers of more than two thousand horse- power, and their working speed reaches fifteen knots per hour. There are dining-saloons, smoke-rooms, sleeping-saloons, separate cabins for ladies and gentlemen, and every other requirement necessary for comfort ; while the latest precautions for safety that science has yet invented have been introduced in the construction of these handsome and commodious vessels. The only other practical routes to the Continent are via Calais and Ostend. Now for both these ports the draft of water must not be more than six feet, which means small and necessarily uncomfortable boats. Both Rotterdam and Antwerp give twelve feet of water, which enables the Great Eastern to carry their passengers in roomy ocean- going vessels; and herein lies one of the special attractions of the Harwich route. Another spkudiU is the character of the provisions which are supplied from the Great Eastern Company's own Hotel at Harwich, and are of a description to be met with on no other short sea-route. Goods and Parcels are conveyed at low throughout rates and with all possible despatch, between the principal English and Conti- nental cities. The fares for passengers are lower than by any other first-class route. Tickets can be obtained at 28, Regent's Circus ; Cook's Tourist Office, Ltidgate Circus; H. Gaze & Son, Tourist Office, 142, Strand; or at Liverpool Street Station; arid all information can be obtained by personal application at tJiese Offices, or by letter addressed to the Continental Department, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C. 219 DUBLIN WHISKY, GENUINE AND SPURIOUa AN ACCOUNT OF THE FRAUDS PRACTISED UPON CONSUMERS. INTRODUCTION. THE issue of tlu following pages seems to feqmrt a few words of cr- fimmiim, Fimr years ago we, wAose names are given below, were t/ie mfy eUsHUers in Dublin; and emr disHUeries have hem emiducied fy our fe^€ctive families since the latter part of tJte last century. We have never .mmmfacimnd anytkingbni genuine or **fot'Siill** Wkisfy, and we have never been concerned m a$^ **blendit^'^ operatwns. We have lofig d^ared the great fronds which, of late years, have been committed in the Whisky trade; and, mm that attenOan has been called to these frauds by the press, we have 220 thought it due to mr own reputation, to tJie reputation of our vianu/acture, and to consumers^ that we should take advanUtge of the opportunity which has been afforded us, and titat we slwuld endeavour, by all legititnate means, to spread abroad a knowledge of the particulars which these pages amtain. John Jameson & Son, Trade Mark JJ&S Bow Street Distillery, Dublin. Wm. Jameson & Co., Trade Mark Marrowbone Lane Distillery, Dublin. John Power & Son, Trade Mark: John's Lane Distillery, Dublin. George Roe & Co., Trade Mark Q- R, Thomas Street Distillery, Dublin. Dublin, Aprilf 1876. 221 WHISKY FRAUDS. TT is a «n«A,bl= circmMta™ thtt tb. popol., ^ whfch i. o^ed Wh.sk, L, r , of th. AtUmtic, to . great d.splay of .ngenuUy on the part of person, who «, „^tio ^ of the ^eat classes described by the Tichborne Claimant that they mat « W b. adm,.ted to have "plenty brains." I. „„„,d be hardly correct, now thtt A« operatic,, haye^been to a considerable extent successful, to say they ^ ^T'i: '"'^ ^ Sreat deal, and that they r^."*i «.'»,'»f^ •tach w. amnot be expected to approve. In ^^'S^teTB^ ^ -Wh«Ky h« heen to defraud the revenue; in ^e Umted B.«do« d>. >».. Itohed UDhitie. d«U.n h., been to palm off a fictitious or •• changeling" spbH upoa the cemmer. ^ On the irt of Fetao«,, .876. the r»« ,«diM|rf a» fcBowing "IRISH WHISKY. intended .0 prevent the saleTf c^^oS ■ ^::flr ^ed'^ha?if„„rs mr/wrw;^.' rr-^-^d^" " MB. SO., Dtt also that the Government encouraged this nrarH/^- • • • .he healU, and sanity .he peopte. In theX^H^s t^e Tere'Z':^ ihusthe purchaser and the consumer were deceived and defauded llr tJ^^L a Z^TLtk "SL"^ ^"'"^^^ ^?:^-,he'^a^StaVl iWe 5?,.?^ and invited Mr. O'SuUivan 10 discuss it pnvately with him on another occasion, so as to cone to- a tk j «. U.e«fore^.hdrawn; bu, the evil if which r^0^s:i:T^,].ir^''tJ,"'Z '^ ^n1i;e"nsSL&' an fndepend™. ^es^ early m the eosnnv Sesiion. There may, perhaps, be some doubt as to the oecessitv of any legislation wi.h regard to it; but .here can be no d«*t fliS the 1^ ^^mpo^t «^ consumers of Whisky, and that they ought .0 be^„^ a"?; ascih^i .0 it. the demand thi."^ i-«.^ts:^:'^:r^"^'^ 222 displaced others in the estimation of the public. But the increased demand has led in its turn to the manufacture, by dealers, on an immense scale, of a mixture which is sold as Irish, or even as Dublin Whisky, but which has nothing in common, save its name and a basis of alcohol, with the true Whisky, of which it is an imitation, and on the reputation and qualities of which its sale is founded. The result has been that many persons who have ignorantly bought the artificial compound under the belief that it was genuine Irish Whisky, in the original sense of the term, have been disappointed in its flavour and properties; and hence, during the last year or two, the sale of all varieties of Whisky has undergone a diminution in favour of other spirits, on account of the discredit which has been attached to the name by those imitations of Whisky to which Mr. 0*SnIfivan r^erred. "A very large number of vegetable substances can be made to yield ardent spirit by distillation ; and this ardent spirit, when it is prepared by any of the simple stills which were formeriy in ewdusive use, omtuns not only alcohol, the common basis of all spirit, mingled with more or less water, but also an admixture of other inc-^redicnts. mostly oils, acids, ethers, or analogous compounds, which are soluble in the diluted alcohol, and which are in every case more or less characteristic of the source from which the distillate is obtained. The alcohol and the water are invariably present, but the other ingredients constitute the flavourin<^ matter by which any one kind of spirit is distinguished from other kinds, and by virtue of which it possesses its special properties, be th^ beneficial or injurious. Thus, spirit so distilled from tbe grape contains the oenanthic ether, or essential oil of wine ; spirit so distilled from com contains fusel oil ; and spirit so distilled from molasses, or beetroot, or potatoes, contains substances proper to its raw material ; insomuch that an experienced person would have no difficulty in declaring, by smell or taste, the source from which any sample of recent spirit had beat obtained. At the beginning and at the close of distillation the flavouring matters come over in larger ■ quantities than at other times ; so that the first and last parts are more strongly flavoured, or, in technical language, are ' coarser,' than the rest, and are received in separate vessels, that they may not impart their character of coarseness to the bulk. It is obvious that the management of this part of the process of distillation, on which the quality of the product greatly depends, must be managed imUi much drill and care ; and some portions of the proceeds are submitted to redistiUation befote tfaey are thought fit to be set aside for use. "The crude, or new spirit, as it comes from an old-fashioned still, is never fit for human consumption. In some instances the essential oils broaght over ifHth the distillate are so noxious in their character, or so excessive in quantity, or so unpleasant in flavour, that it is necessary to remove them by rectification, which is a process of redistillation, after admixture with substances calculated to fix and retain the oils. In other instances the oils, although unpleasant at first, undergo oxidatira or other chemical changes in course of time, and pass into new compounds of an agreeable character. This process, which occurs but slowly under ordinary conditions, is capable of being awderated by an elevated tenqierature and by free exposure to air, so that, in the West Indies, it has been a common practice to render new rum drinkable by allowing It to percolate through a sort of filter made of green bushes. But in the case of spirits, as in the analogous case of wine, the best results are olrtained by allowing the maturing inrocess to proceed in bulk, and at its natural rate ; and hence, among those -who are consumers of alcohol, many kinds of old spirits have come to be highly and deservedly esteemed. "Among these, as far as the British Islands are concerned, a prominent {dace has long been held by Irish, and especially by Dublin Whisky. This ^irit, when genuine, is prepared in old-fashioned stills called ' pot ' stills, by the distiUation of a mash made partly from malted and partly from unmalted barley. The process of distillation is so managed as to bring over a product of the proper fineness, loaded with only so much essential oil as will undergo the desired changes within a reasonable time ; and the new spirit is then stored in old sherry casks, from which it derives some additional flavour, and also its well-known yelloirish tint (all distilled spirits being originally colotirless), and it is kept in bond generally for about three years. By the end of that time the fusel oil which it once contained has undergone conversion into 223 other compounds, and the result, the real Dublin Whisky, is a spirit singulaily free ?iZlni^ T *** produce acidity, and flavoured, in a manner highly esteemed by rmnoiMiiiit, hf the products of the gradual and spontaneous decomposition of its fusel oil, which, although itself noxious, is ultimately replaced by essences of a harmless character. ^ From Whisky made and treated as described the bulk of the fusel oil generally disappears in about twelve months, although the spirit continues to undergo beneficial changes for a much l<^er period ci time. Genuine or original Scotch Whisky differs from Irish in being distilled from a barley mash only, without malt;* and in Ireland a certain quantity of Whisky has been distiUed from a malt mash alone. ••The IiM mamifocttire, notwithstanding the existence of a few provincial stills, was for a long period vested almost exclusively in the hands of the four great ^stilling firms in Dublin—namely, Messrs. John Jameson & Son, Messrs. William Jameson & Co., Sir John Power & Son, and Messrs. George Roe & Co. These firms held a posi- tion analogous to that of the great brewers in London and Dnhlm ; and, partly becatise they had established reputations at stake, partly on account of their command of the grain market and of the necessary knowledge and skill in manufacture, they turned out prodnds wUdi had pmnts oi dattaeoce as among thonsetves, but which were always of genuine character and of superior quality, so that they placed Dublin Whisky in high estimation as a spirit for ordinary domestic use, and also as a form of alcohol especially sailed to dyspeptics and other invalids. The market which was thus created became so la^ tiuU some of the dealers or middlemen who intervened between the prodncen and the consumers, began to cast about for fresh sources of supply, fnmi which they might themselves derive a larger share of the profits of the trade than had hitherto fallen to ttCM. In ttiis quest' they were gmded by a well-known precedent, and they seem to feftve neglected none of the lessons which it taught. "The Dutch followers of King William III. had introduced into England the practice of drinking ' Hollands ; ' and the demand for this spirit led, in no long time, to the manufacture of a cheap imitation ci it, which was called ' Geneva,' and ultimately ' gin.' As soon as the trade in gin was well established, it gave rise to a competition in price, which could only be maintained by a competition in adulteration, and dealers tied one another in p roduc in g a fiqnid at a mmimum of price, and possessing a maximum of fiery and intoxicating properties. Cayenne pepper, turpentine, cocculus indicus, and a variety of other drugs, were either used or supposed to be used, until at length the name of * blue ndn ' became a synonym for gin, and the phrase ' gin- Ainker ' became a synonym for degtadatimi. It is well known that the poisons which are added to diluted alcohol, to conceal its weakness and to render it intoxicating, pro- duce a drunkenness of a more hurtful and a more hopeless kind than that which is pro- duced by akohcrf itsetf, Gia VOL into disrate ammig the resectable classes of society, and it is pwhnhlB tfcat lha tnde in ifpoaa imitatia— of it to loMe atett stored in the decline. "In the year i860 an Act of Parliament gave permission to mix, or, as it is euphemistically called, to ' blend ' spirits in bond ; and this permission led to a new era in the Whisky Trade. Previously, a cask of Whisky purchased from a distiller could not be tampered with until the, purchaser had paid the duty and had carried his property wmw/% nd Oe laige aaaount on the ingredients which are employed for this purpose. Who can pretend to say vriiat these ingredients are, or what may be their effects, seeing that eacli dealer may work by his own recipe and may have special secrets of his own ? Considering that the ordinary basis of the manufacture is silent spirit of known value, it may be pre- sumed that variations of price are mainly due to variations in the cost of flavourfaig matter, or to variations in the time which different kinds of flavouring matter require before the mixture is ready to be sent out. Among the ingredients which are not kept secret, preparations called • prune wine ' and ' essence of sherry ' may be mentioned, and it is tnppftwd that the thousands of butts of a vile compound called Hiwhwiy aherty, 00 a«5 "W* £^ or £9 a. butt, which annually pass througli tbit English Customs on their way to Ireland, are not consnmed in that country, but are Ibrtified with silent spirit and returned to England under the name of Irish Whisky. We do not pretend to expres;* QP|°io° on the merits of the various manufactures to which we have referred, but flie opiaiw of tte pofaiic is distinctiy adverse to them. Under the impression which they have produced upon consumers, the Whisky trade has been dedining, idatively to the trade in the varieties of spirit which are sold under other names. The importation of nkat qnrit from Scotland into Ireland has also declined, but this is because some of the dealers, who at first carried on business l»y means of an office with two rooms, aided by the facilities which were afforded them to use the bonded warehouses as misbg rooms, have found it prudent to render themselves veritable distillers by setting up, often soBsewhere hi Ireland, patent stills, or even one or two pot stills, of their own. Silent spirit is also made in England in larger quantities than fonneriy, so diat the Scotch manufacturers have no longer the command of the maiket ••NotwWistanding the reply of the Chancellor of the Exchequer to Mr. O'SulUvan's motion, ft secas manifest that a sound Adulteration Actf although it might not prohibit the proceedings which we have described, would prevent the public from being deceived by them. If there are consumers who like to drink silent spirit variously flavoured, we ■ee BO reason why they AmM not be iadnlged. Our view goes no further than that such artificial compounds, however delectable in themselves, ought not to be add under tiie nameof Whisky but under a name or names which should truly express their nature. WMaky is a perfectly definite liquid, with characters of its own, and those who desire to purchase Whisky should be protected against fiandafeat hnitations of it, even if these were actually more wholesome than the genuine article. We all admit that the inter- ferenceof legislation wilji t rade is undesirable, and that it should at best be regarded as « aecessaiy enL Nolwitfastandn^, tiiis laxity must stop somewhere, and it may as well stop short of encouraging misrepresentation and deceit. In the meantime it seems likely that a purchaser might obtain some security by demanding the Whisky of a ^ ^ stipulating that it should be of a certain age, and that it The disclosures contained in the foregoing article fell like a thunder- bolt into the camp of the conspirators, and were speedily followed by the appearance of four or five letters from distillers who had not been mentioned " " specially indicated, but who were exceedingly eager to call out, Of conne only fiv tlie infionnatioii of the public, " Please, sir, it wasn't me!'' After a period of breathing time, many of the makers of "silent spirit " put forth dabotate ugammkB in defence of their proceedings ; these arguments being sometimes issued in their own names, and sometimes as editorial articles in any newspapers which could be induced to espoose their eanse. The general tone adopted was to treat the Times' disclosoies as if they were merely tx parte statements ; or to maintain that the spirit was good, and that its importation ought to be encouraged. No attempt was made to show the propriety of sending spirit to Ireland only that it might be exported again under a false name. In the mean while, Mr. Punch, ever ready to lift his baton in defence of lair dealing, had stepped into the fray;* and on the 15th of •**'WHISKY r. 'SOJEHT SFIRIX.* <«A1m. ahs idr Wlasky, That spirit pure and clear, That made its drinker fitisky, Tct left Mi Jhar desr 226 February the Daily Telegraph devoted to the subject a leading article, from which we subjoin a considerable extract : — "Those who wish to avoid violent extremes in the treatment of a question on which it seems far from probable that English humanity will ever come to a unanimous agceonait, are natoralfy anziotts to select for their moderate potations the least norious of spirituous liquors, and to make use of all possible means within thdr power to ascertain that the liquor which they purchase is what it professes to be, anl not a fimodnlent and oibea miwlMdeaome imitation. Hitherto the palm tot purity seems to have been, by a genend consensus, awarded to Iridi M^islqr. not ooljr by the gnat Now vile adulterators Have caused its name to stink ; Can UdmieB be tnutofs To &diad% B fl M f t f dindc ? ** The aeetaroos amber fluid That Erin used to send — Pure stuff as e'er was brewed— 1» now a pdsonoos 'Uend;* For the true potheeny flavour, And the fire from headache free. From ftad. oH its savour, Its coaaeqveaoe^D.T.! ** O spring of merry laughtcrl O fancy, frolic, 6ml That drew no liaidk bOe after. From honest worms while ran. Koar solko, silent s{Mtit Seta brains aad blood aboQ ; €^ Erin ani^t inherit But woe fiom fiisel oU ? Of Vintner and of Grocer We long have been the sport: Claret to ink oooms doaor, And elder rules in port. Petroleum fizz of Roederek Uaups Um faaoaa faiaad! And Hamburg, wholesale murderer. With her sherry floods the landl **In wonder I am stranded. So strange it seems to think The Irish, nation candid. Should send ns filth to drink. Vile spirit, which the deuce is The nose and cheek to blotch. And Erin's calm excuse is — *We get it from the Scotch.' " O Finns of both the Jamesons 1 O Finns of Power 8c Rob, Don\ let HiBERNiA claim as sons The .scamps who treat her so. Home-Rolen efferveacent Poor Erin may endure. But she'll ne'er be convalescent, TQl her potlieen ii pore." AmcA, M. tttk, 227 %ody of the poblic, but by those medical men who do not set their faces absolutely ag^ainst the consumption of alcohol. Even the uncompromising Dr. Benjamin Richard- son, while he denounces ' cordial gin ' as a deleterious compound into which there may entcf sadi uigiedieiitv ss oH of jtmipn', oil of Utter ahnonds,' essence of ang[elica, oil of coriander, carraway, vitriol, garlic, Canadian balsam, and Strasburg turpentine, candidly admits that Whisky is fax less falsified than gin; and the worst he can say against the first-named prodnct is that it acquires its yellowish colour by being kept in old sherry casks. But the doctor falls into a cnrioas error when he observes that Whisky is modified by 'blending,' or mixing with other preparations of alcohol 'so as to <:ommunicate extra qualities of softness and smoothness.' , It is precisely against this pw i clk c of * blending ' tliat not only 1i» legitimate manvfactorers, but the connoisseurs among Irish Whisky consumers are just now most hotly protesting. They declare it to be neither more nor less than an audacious adulteration of the pure spirit, lowering the quality of the beverage, spoiling its flavour, and endangering the health of the drinker. The trumpet-note of alarm was first sounded by Mr. O'Sullivan, M.P., during the debate in the House of Commons on the Adulteration of Food Bill, in April, 1875, •when the honourable Member moved an amendment prohibiting further traffic in a mysterious compound known in the trade as *nlent' Wlusky, which, it seems, rince i860, when the 'blending' of spirits in bond was first authorized by the Legislature, has been mingled in enormous quantities with the product, purporting to be Dublin WMsky, lying in the Iri^ bonding wardioases. ICr. O'SuIlivan's description of the taste of 'blended' Whisky is diametrically at variance with Dr. Richardson's conclusions as to the ' softness ' and ' smoothness ' communicated to the article by mixing it with anodier fiennented agent; since the honourable gentleman mentioned that he had persuaded a friend to taste some of the ' silent Whidty,* and that the person in question declared the effect produced upon his fauces was as though ' a torchliglil procession had gone down his throat.' To this humorous accusation was joined the nMM« serioos ^trge ttat, vvhereas gennine Iriaii Whisl^ was wortli 6s. a gall' 4» »• 4» »• *• 5* i> With what possible object, as the 7mms has already pointed out, could aU thia Scotck aa«it apSr^ be sent over to Ireland, and then sent back mpm, except that it mi^ be made to pass aa Iriah Whisl^? In tiie Times of Febmaiy the ajrd, there is m paimgrsfdi which contains of a stateawitt pi^qpared bgr <«Scotcii Diatfflen,** In reply to the article of February the ist. The "Scotch Distillers" in question aio not named, and we therefore have no means of knowing how far they are representative men ; but the Times has permitted them to state their case very fully, and almost in their own words ; so that it is necessary for us to examine the arguments they have used. They say that the "accepted definition of Whisky " (accepted by whom ?) is " spirit distilled from a mixture of grain and malt; or malt alon^" and that tiie term applies equally to pot still or patent still spirits. Th^ forget that Whisky was a favour^ beverage befine patent stilhi weie in odstence; and hence that the only proper definition of Whisl^ is spirit distilled from the materials and by the metliod which were in use when the name was given. They proceed to say that the " so-called " Dublin Whisky has therefore no exclusive right to "the appellation." What this means is not quite clear ; but it can hardly be denied that Whisky made in Dublin has an exclusive right to the appellation of " Dublin Whisky," or that Whisky made in Ireland has an exclusive right to the appellation oi "Irish Whisky." Next, they deny that "silent" spirit is so called because it tells no tales about its sources; and, in support of tiiis denial, they assert that the prodiue their own patent stills sometimes stinks abominably, and can only be add ior methylatkm. Of this hut asseiticm we axe willing to give them the full benefit. Next, they say that nothing but "perfect grain, and skill and care in the manufacture, can produce even a partially silent spirit " (what is " partially silent ? ") ; but they do not explain what becomes of all the spirit that is distilled at Alloa from the damaged grain cargoes that come to Leith ; and they leave upon the mind the general impression that the Scottish rBpirit used in making spurious Whisky is a good deal worse than it was supposed to be. They deny that drugs are used to give pungency to "blends," on the ground that blending is effected under the supervision of Government officers, and by law no drugs can be added.** What truly Arca- dian innooence and dmfdicityl If by Uw no drugs can be added, of course they never aie acUed; and equally of course the "Mended" spirit is never medicated at any subsequent time. They say that the charge of adulteration with Hamburgh sherry has been "sufficiently disposed of" by a letter signed " Se Defendendo," of which we shall have to speak anon. They think it not surprising that dealers should buy what is cheap (and nasty ?) in preference to what is of higher price; and they declare that patent still spirit is to a large extent stored for years in sherry casks (why ? ), and that it is this " old " spirit which is " often " used for blending. In point of fact patent still spirit is so highly distilled or rectified, in the process of preparing it, that it is sunply BUoobxA and water and nothing more; and hence it follows that it does not undogo any diange, other than simple loss, by keeping, and that it is incapable oS being matured or improved by time. It does not contain any of the ingredients by virtue of which the pot-still spirit proceeds to its full development ; and, if it is indeed stored in sherry casks as represented, the only object of thus storing it must be that it may acquire from them colour and vinous flavour, so that it may be better adapted to mislead the public. It is impossible to conceive that the blender would waste the strength ol silent spirit by keeping it 235 ■Bless it were ototaining some medication to compensate him for his loss. I««tl7, tile amhon deprecate Government interference; and they triumphantly point out tiM praaence of the word "blended" on every cask in which Mended ^irit ia coataioed. They do not say, however, that this word ••bteoded" ia fiuntiy acmtched on tiie wood, in anch a manner as to be illegible, and tiiat tiie Commiaaieiiefs of Inland Revenoe, ia tiie interests ot the Scotch silent spnit tade, have prateated against its bong affixed m a distinct and proper manner. On the whole, the "atatement" ia a wy cniioos one; by reason of the ingenuity with which it evades at every point, while professing to refute them, the charges of which its authors complain. It is necessary in this place that we should guard ourselves against the possibility of wounding Scottish susceptibilities by any unguardedness of expreaaioa. We must say distinctly what we hope is already plain, namely, that tteee ia no qoestion of making Scotch Whisky pass for Irish Whisky, hat oaiy of flMldng Scoleh silent spirit pass for Irish Whisky. We accept tiie happy phiaaa of tiie MmUcml Bxammtr tiiat tiie difierence between genuine Scotch Whisky and genniae Iriah Whiaky ia analogooa to tiie diflnence between Bordeaux and Burgundy, each bemg excellent m ita kind, and each commending itself to educated palates. It is our good fortune that the pahtea which ptefer Dublin Whisky are more numerous than those which prefer Scotch; and hence, whilst the demand for Scotch Whisky is chiefly in Scotland, or among Scotchmen in other countries, the demand for Dublin Whisky is very large in England, and among Englishmen aU over the world. To the maker of genuine Whisky, whether aaaafKtnved in Scotland or Ireland, we hold out the right hand of iilnaBhip ; and ao w« do to the maker of silent spirit, when that article is ^Vfiad to fta praper nsei aa for hasning in spirit lamps, for making varnish, for con n wpwdi ng mediemea, aad for a great many pnrpoaea ia chemistry, pharmacy, and the arts. We only olgect to it wlien it is ahipped to Fiance and returned under tiie name of Cognac, or when it ia shipped to IfeUmd and " blended " there, in order that it may be sent into the Engliah market under the name of Irish Whisky. Taken alone, it has the virtues and the fanlta of alcohol ; but when it is bedevilled into sham Whisky, or into sham Brandy, it is without the special virtues, over and above those of their alcohol, which real Whisky and real Brandy possess, and it has faults which are all its own, and which arise from the ingredients which must be added to it in order to fiva ooloar to the name by which it ia called. Among these, perhaps tiie leaat noodona ia the fiiael oS of oew or eoatae Whiskies, altiiough that alone ia UaUe to prodnce a pecaSaily violent and infariooa fona of intorii^ ^ttiftn. We have eveiy reason to believe that drnga atill more haitfol are added by aome dealers in cheap sham Whisky, and we have recentiy been infbimed tiiat ^t is called " purified naphtha," or « spirit of methyl," is among the number. Thia "spirit" purified to any extent short of potability, is admitted free of duty; and, when not potable by itself, it may still come into play as a flavouring agent for a large bulk of silent spirit. The duty free import of spirit of methyl, in 1875, naa to about looo gallons over the average. It may possibly be applied to tarn kaimleaa or Iq^ftimate purpose, for we do not orofess to know the secrets 236 of the nefarious trade of Whisky adulteration — any more than we know the details of the processes used in coining bad money. We are content to nail the imitation coin to the counter, and to call attention to its baseness ; and when we have done this, we leave the task of further investigation to the police. There is one part of the question, however, to which we have already made slight reference, and whidi requiies forther attention. We mean the alleged employment of Hambai|^ Sherry as an ingrediatt of sham Whisky. A writer, who signed himsdf **Se Drfemdsndo;* denied, in the Times paper, the troth of this alk^tion. He Appeased to be unconscious of a certain element of humour in the statement that the Hamburgh Sherry which went to Ireland was fortified with silent spirit and returned as Whisky, and hence he is, we suppose, a Scotchman, into whose head, as Sidney Smith once declared, a joke can only be made to enter by a surgical operation. It must be admitted that this parti- cular form of "blending" cannot be done in the Custom House, but only in private warehouses and with duty-paid materials. Mr. Keene, of the London Custom House, pointed out in the Times, in reply to "S* DefemUndo," tiiat too gallona <^ ailent spirit at 25 O.P. and at las. 6d. per gallon duty, mixed with an equal quantity of Hambni|^ Sherry at 42 U.P. and at 2s. 6d. per gaSon doty, would give 200 gallona of a mixture 16 or 17 U.P., the strength at which bottied Whisky is usually sold, and at 7s. 6d. per gallon duty. This would leave a gain of loid. a gallon in duty, towards advertising and similar expenses. We have been favoured with a copy of a letter on this subject which was addressed to the Chancellor of the Exchequer by an eminent London wine merchant some years ago, at a time when the wine duties were under discussion. The writer referred to the notorious use of Hamburgh Sherry as a diluting agent in the manufacture of spurious Whisky, and showed that the dealer obtained a profit of £7 as. 6d. per butt by buying his . spirit m this form. The butt of 108 gallona of Hamboi]^ oontaming 45 gaUooa of proof apirit, would coat £9 to purchase, and £13 los. for duty; ao that tiie purchaser would get 45 galkma of duty-paid inoof vj^xit for £22 xoa., or at xos. a gallon, without reckoning anything for the 63 gallons of water, containing sugar* flavouring and colouring matters. Now 45 gallons of silent proof spirit in any other form would cost los. 2d. per gallon duty, and 3s. per gallon to purchase, in all £29 12s. 6d, or £7 12s. 6d. more than the equivalent quantity of spirit bought as Hamburgh " Sherry." The 63 gallons of flavoured and coloured water, mixed with the latter, would have their value — for, as Mr. Keene has shown, the blends of equal parts of Hamburg sherry and of 25 O.P. silent spirit gives a mixture of the precise strength at which Whisky is commonly sold. As we have said already, the use of Hamburgh sheny for the purpose indicated ia notoriooa, and tiioae who deny it would deny the presence of the sun at noon- day. Our readers are well aware, of course, that this so-called sheny is derived from sources which are whc^y indqwndent of the gmpe ; and that it ia no more wine than it is Whisky. We come next to the chemical part of the business, and on this the Medical Examiner has struck the key-note of a much-needed warning. As applied to the analysis of food, drink, and adulterations, the chemistry of the 237 unless it were oDtaining some medication to compensate him for his loss. LMdy, the authors deprecate Government interference; and they triumphantly ^ presence of the word "blended" on every cask in which Meirfed ^liiit is contained. They do not say, however, that this word "blended" is fiuntiy scntehed on the wood, in such a manner as to be iUegible, and that the Commissionera of Inland Revenue, in the interests oi the Scotch silettt ^ tiade, have protested against its b^ affixed in a distinct and proper manner. On the whole, the *erienced thst the toddy of one house is salutary, and that of anotiier pemidoos, evm tihough the latter, being less pleasant^ is drunk in smaller quantity. The eiqilanation is not far to seek, and is that the former is made from genuine Whisky, the latter from a spurious compound. Even if chemistry could unravel all the ethers of genuine Whisky, and could form artificially something which seemed precisely to resemble it, there can be no doubt that the artificial spirit would be inferior to the genuine, just as no artificial mineral water has ever possessed the full qualities of that of which it was an imitation. Before we leave the chemists to their own devices, we must call attention to the habitual misuse of a word which has suffered greatly at their hands, and which has served, more, perhaps, than any other, to mislead the public That word is ** purity.** We are told that everything is **pure,'* from plastered sherry to farinaceous food ; and we once saw on a hand-barrow a placard wbidi announced *' pure ginger-beer." Now ** pure," in its chemical sense, means unmixed, or, at all events, containing no foreign ingredient, and it cannot be applied with propriety to any compound of a complex nature unless that compound is itself perfectly definite and invariable, and unless all the ingredients proper to it are present, and are present in their proper quantities and proportions. In speaking of wines and spirits the word " pure'* is nonsense, and should be replaced by " genuine." There is no standard of "purity," because there is no standard of composition — the genuine liquids not only diflEering somewhat from year to year, according to difiierences in the qualities of the fruit or grain from which they are made, but also undo*, going spontaneous progressive changes with the lapse of time. Of course. Whisky would be obviously "impure** it it were adulterated vrith some totally foreign ingredient. Silent spirit, on the other hand, may reasonably be called " pure," but then it is not pure Whisky, but pure silent spirit, and it ceases to be in any sense pure when it is flavoured to represent Whisky. It is no longer pure silent spirit, because the flavouring is an impurity ; and no amount of flavouring can ever make it into Whisky at all, any more than a cat can be changed into a dog by cropping its tail and altering its name. Genuine Whisky, on the other hand, may in a sense be impure, and may be the b^r for the impurity. The flavour and colmir wtnxik it derives from storage in sheny caslot an^ strictly spealdng, impurities, but they are pleasant to most consumers and usurious to mom. We advise the puUic, when they buy Whisky, to shun with especial care the allurements of pn^essing "purity;" but to spare no pains in their endeavour to secure "genuineness." A few pages back, when comparing spurious Whisky to counterfeit coin, we referred to the police; and the reader will naturally ask why it is that the police are supine. As the Times very fairly stated, there could be no objection to the public sale of medicated silent spirit under any name which should express its nature; but the fraud of which we complain as twofold, — first, that medicated silent spirit should be called Whisky at all — ^Whislqr bemg sometiiing else, whidi has earned a hig^ reputation; notf 239 ' that the silent spirit should be brought from England or Scotland to Ireland only that it may be brought back again as "Irish" Whisky, which it would not be, even if it were Whisky of some sort. Messrs. Haig, in their letter to the TsMMt — kom wbkb wo have already quoted— conclude by saying that they will with evoy coofidaoee tniat their case to the Commiseioners of Inland Revenue, ** who are capaUe of jodgiog iriiat is to be allowed and what ia not." The Commissioners of Inland Revenne woe long ago appedei to, ia conseqnaiioe of our applications to the Government, and th^ wrote a lettor, or made a report, to the Treasury, which, were; it not that they rqradiate jodgment in the case, should certainly have been headed by the well-known motto of the Edinburgh Review, " yiidex damnatur cum nocens absolvitur." The Commis- sioners say that it is the " proper function of a revenue department to see that ao regulations in restriction of the operations of trade are enforced by their oflken hot sodi as are imperatively required for the security of the revenue." liilBB the Romaa Emperor Vespasian, they iuM that the tribnte-money does not smdl of tiitt aonne finom which it ia obtained. They a&nit, thMiretically, that it mi|^ be their doty to interfere if the eooseqnancea of non-interference would be prejudicial to the public health; bat they argue that this coaditioa is not fulfilled in the case under consideration, because "the silent s^iit is a pure and wholesome liquid;" and they add the erroneous statement that "it is notorious that the Dublin Whisky owes a great part of its peculiar flavour to the fusel oil which it contains, and from which the silent spirit is nearly free." It has of late years been a recognized principle that entire ignorance of everything rdating to ships is an essential qualification for the office of Rrrt Loid of the Admiralty; and, in like manner, the Commissioners of Ifliaad RevemM have probabfy tbonght it a duty to m^inftjii fh^f feeedom from pr^ndice hy kee]^ themselves m absolnte ignorance of eveiy- thing relating to spirits. Had they not followed this course, they would have known that the very "purity" of the silent spirit, which they extol, renders it unfit, or at least unacceptable, for drinking; and hence that the blendmg which they call harmless necessitates, as its immediate consequence, the delete- rious adulteration by which the flavour of true Whisky is supposed to be in aome degree imitated. They would have known, also, that fusel oil disappears from trae Whisky befeie it ia fit for use, and gives place to new compounds of a wholeaome and pleaaaat character ; precisely as the acidity and harshness of green fruit are converted hdo sweetness aad flavour durmg the natural process of ripening. They should have spokea, timfofe, not of the fusel oil wUdk it contains, but of that which it once contained; and Aey should also have avoided the further error of saying that Irish Whisky is added to the Scotch spirit as a colouring agent, because it is really inconceivable that they do not know that all Whisky, or for the matter of that, all spirit, is originally colourless, and hence that the Irish Whisky has no colour to impart. In their plea that restrictions on blending are not required in the interests of the revenue there is perhaps some force; bat these gentlemen undermine their own position when tfa^ admit that they might be called upon to interfere if the public health weie at stake. S40 It would seem, however, that the best legislative remedy, next to the totid prohitntion of Mending in bond, would be a provision that to sdl one Imid of spirit under the name of another should be punishable as a fraud. Those who bought Whisky would then get v^at they asl»d for; and those who had medicated silent spirit to sell would have to find a new name for it, and to do their best to bring it into favour on its own merits. That such an undertaking would not be quite hopeless was shown a few years ago, when a Silent Spirit flavoured with the sweepings of tea warehouses was alleged to possess certain virtues, and even attained some temporary popularity. In the meanwhile we have determined to use the opportunity which the public press has put into our hands, and to endeavour so to instruct consumers that they will at least have some power to protect themselves. 1 1 241 Cfe^ §Mu Wi\hk Crak. Thomas Street Distill Dublin, January, iQje. In comeiiiieiice of refiresentatkxis which have fi^quently been addressed to us from abroad, we have decided upon supply- ing the Export Trade with our Old Wuiskt IN CASES OF ONE DOZEN EACH, CONTAINING TWO GALLONS, Bottled expressly under our own siqwrv^on, in bond, at the prices stated bebw. We are. Sir, Your obedient Servants, GEO. ROE & Co. BRAND Label Cask* / GR PRICES IN BOND. ^ ^ :^ 201 Per Cue - . ♦ W/'PerCaae - F. O. B. at Dublin. In London, or liverpool, i/- per Case more. la bottles. 13 bottles. BRAND am Cork AND Capsule GR Messrs. Roe b^ to inform shipping firms that tiieir old and very old Whiskies, in Butts, Hc^sheads, and Quarter Casks, can be obtained from the Wholesale Wine and Spirit Merchants, as well as finom Dublin direct. Quotatiofis, etc, can be had on applicatioQ as above ; or to Mr. E. J. FIGGIS. Commercial Buildings. Dublin. 342 DUBLIN WHISKY. Marrowbone Distillery, Dublie. ILLIAM JAMESON & Co. beg to state that they bottle tbeir OLD WHISKIES in Bond for Export These Whiskies are bottled in Aeir mm* Wadioiue. UHderthdr «wn suUnnsion, and protected by their Tkade Makk~ w on Cork, Capsule, and Label. They are offered Free on Board at Dublin at prices quoted below, for a quantity of not less than 100 Cases, in Cases «^ ff » !f «if »i !q; one dooen, or two gallooseech. Free on board at London, Liverpool, orGb^gofw, xs. per Ctse extn. Fac-simile of LabeL BRAND ON CASES. (White and Gold Label), z8/- per Que. (Green and Gold Labd), 13/- per Case. ft Agents for the United States: Messrs. JAMES REID & Co., N«wYoffk. Canada: Messrs. JOHN HOPE & Ca, Montreal. Auitimlia & New Zealand: Mr. JULES BERTHEL, Market Butldings, William Street, Melbourne. «43 Liverpool & London & Globe INSURANCE COMPANY. speeia^'S ESTABLISHED IB, FIRE. — ^ANNUITIES. — LIFE. Net Ammal lacaaiie, j£i,537,7ii.— $7,688,555 | Total Funds jeS.8i4.3fi7-^07x.83S fntsitts — ITibtrpooI. J. Wiaimi, Vwj . J. A^ToMm, »■» DIRECTORS Ciaimtttn—H. B. Gibrramv Elf. Aq^k^ Chairmen— a. Castellain, Bi^ asd G. H. Loxdale, Esq. J. Hubback, Esq. H. Littledale, Esq. O. Melly, Esq. H. H. Nicholson, Esq. William Paton, Esq. James Rome, Esq. CkariesT. Bowxing, Esq. T. Brocklebank, Eaq. C J. Corbally, Esq. -Mfred Fletcher, Esifc Arthur P. Fletcher7»l. W. D. Holt, Esq. J.A.Toliia,E>9. St a t ttr y^ikt C em fmiv J . M. Dove. Ea^ , Dimcaii, Esq. tip |bb l«l iMil. OJ!ce—AS, Wniiam Street. B. Mintnni, Esq. Esq. I Charles H. ] Anson P. Stokes, Esq. 124, 1^ Salle Street. ■Jolm Creiar, Esq. 184, Gravier Street. 'D. Uiqnliart, Esq. I 6Mq^W%r.Eat. J, F. Sdmder, Eaq. Tamu Elliot. E>q. Cntsttes — ITonbon. SirChnfatNidK>baa.B«t.| WDHa* Miool, Esq. W. DIRECT011& Ciairman— Sir Charles Nicholson, Bart., D.C.L De^ijf-Chairmatt^'Vf. Nicol, Esq. W. Pleydell Bouverie, Esq. W. J. R. Cotton, Esq., Aid.. M.P. Hoa.£. Dmmmond. F. Fanning, Esq. R. W. Gaossen, Esq. Hon. S. Carr Glyn. W. Macnawghwii, Esq. Eoq. Office — 422, California Street. Chairman — ^W. F. Babcock, Esq. Lucius H. Allen, Esq. | William Alvord, Esq. Isaac Friedlander, Esq. ffrrf'W StenUuy—^iS&m B. Johmton, €^ HPIfuiitEl ^mhAl QjSet rWn tCAgmmt. Deputy Chairman — Thomas Cramp, Esq. Sir A. T. Gait, K.C.M.G. I T. Hart. Esq. George Stephen, Esq. RtadtntStcntary—Q. F. C Smith, Esq. Q^bw— soob ^ Sticet. .a Haa.SbX.I>.1lMMM%CBi TVBiflvr 'HrJ Honty; Sir F. Murphy ; Sir J. McCdhck. iMmtMrnm^H Gowtt Bward, Es» paid hf Hw Compai^, ki and St. John Conflagrations pud imce the estabUshment of the Company ;Ci,026,8oo.— 134,000. ;fii4,4o6,8i4.-$72,034,O70. HEAD OFFICES: 1, DALE STREET, LIVERPOOL, & 7, CORNHILL, LONDON. '44 BANK OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ESTABLISHED IS 1836. Paid-up Capital One Million Sterling. INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER IN xtffK Reserve Fund Two Hundred & Eleven Thousand Pounds Sterling. J. J. CATER, Esq. ROBERr A. 15. DOP.REE, Esq. HENRY R. FARRER, Esq. ALEXANDER GILLESPIE, Esq. COURT OF DIRECTORS I RICHARD H. GLYN. E.sq. HENRY J. B. KENDALL^ Eaq. J. J. KINGSFOR D. Esq. FREDERIC LUBBOCK, Es o w AGENTS FOR GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND- A.BOURSOT&C? [ePERNAY) 9. HART STREET, CRUTCHEO FRURS, (epERNAYJ LONDON. 248 A '® KRUG & Co.'S '■%^;/CH AM P AGN E ^ IS) w h h CO P h 5 o IS o AGENTS: A. fiOGHESEAU & 00. I "^Z Y^:^.^ South Wmiam street jx» ^vujuMAu w vv. ( jj^^ OfiLEANS : 18, St. Louis Street. < h o O AGENTS: Cali&nua : HELLMANN fi£OS. & 00., San f laadsco. ^nat Britain antr (lAmm\ INGLIS AND CUNNINGHAM, 60, MARK LANE, LONDON. K K 349 AGENTS FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM, CUDDEFORD & SMITH, 66, Mark Lane, JLoudon. CHAMPAGNE. AGENT FOR AMERICA, FRANCIS O. DE LUZE, 18, South William St., New York, «5o ac "—J CO w O U o < Reims [TM-DRY EIGLAND. Extra Drjr JULES MUMM & Reims. MoGULLAGH & CO., 49, Beaver Street, New York, General Agents for the U. S. and Canada. WiS^SilMSL k CO., 49, Beaver Stml^ iBvToii; 351 >S ^ O as > a PI m I o X > > o -^8 > o !► 3 « O 9 li G. H. MUMM & CO.'S CH AM PAGN ES Extra Drjr G.H.Mumm&C2 — ) i EMIL QUACK. Queen Buildings. 11. Dale Street. LIVERPOOL. ^ ^ "GOLD^LAOK" ^^/^^^ "CABINET" O MP A AY EN CHAMPAGNE AGENTS: J. R. PARKINGTON & CO., 24> Crutched Friars, Mark Lane, London. S52 I Appointment to H.M.the King of Norway and Sweden GUSTAVE GIBERT'S. MEDALS AWARDED , CHAMPAGNE. 6MIB IIM DO BOI REIMS TRAO£ MARK MEDALS AWARDED • SOIB- AG^^TS -FDRrTHElfKlTED -IQKGDOH. (m^Smm65,GFTOWERj5TRPT.LONDQNix; POL ROGER & CO.'S CHAMPAGNE. HeSEIIVE CUV^E. Aleuts ffir GREAT JSJUTAIN and IRELAND: REUSS, LAUTEREN & CO., 39, CRUTCHED FRIARS, LONDON. •53 PREMISES OF 0X&RD-DDPUY&C9 cognac. Fine Old Brandies SUPPLIED TO THE CUNARD LINE FOR THE LAST TWENTY-FIVE YEARS. JULES ROBI_N & CO COGNAC AGENTS - LONDON .DAVIES, SPACKMAN & CO. LIVERPOOL JAMES MURDOCH. NEW YORK. E. LAMONTAGNE. MONTREAL JOHN HOPE & CO. MELBOURNE ...DALGETY, BLACKWOOD & CO. I SYDNEY LEARMONTH, DICKINSON & CO. 25s Si : \ i i 5^ IHEMYBRETTsC! LONDON. j| Price 45/.perdozehsQuarefiiassstopperedbotUesinDam^^^ bin cases "An Article of undoubted purity.** Dr. LETHEBY. "Poculiarly free from acidity." Or. ANDRfiW UML 256 TRADE HARK. PUHE CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURED BY THE COMPAGNIE COLONIALE, PARIS. AMONG useful discoveries and inventions which have added to the comfinrts of human life, that of Cocoa and Chocolate is one of peculiar interest. Chocolate, or Paste of Cocoa, a most wholesome and nourishing article of food, which also makes a most ^^reeable and refreshing beverage, is obtain^ from the seed- beans of the Theobroma C^cao, a beautiful plant indigenous to the tropical parts of America and the neighbouring islands. As the word cacao is not eaqr fear Riigy^'^ lips to pronounce, the article in England is always named Cocoa. The COMPAGNIE Colonialb of Paris has undertaken the task of reforming certain grave faults and abuses in the omunercial and manufacturing arrangements for the supply of this precious gift of Nature to mankind, and their immense factory at Passy is a model of mechanical ingenuity and cleanliness, and compasses all the attributes by which the most perfect products of chocolate are manufactured, which has placed them beyond the pale of rivaliy. The Chocolate of the Compagnie Coloxiale is manufactured of the best CocOA and Sugar only, forming the most Nutrtitve and Economical Breakfast. It contains no mixture of Flour, Arrowroot, Starch, or other useless or pernicious matter, and is not deprived of its most valuable ingredient, the CocoA Butter. It is recom> mended fay tiie medical authcMnties to DBUCAIS Persons and those sufifering frmn iNOlGSSnON. From the "Lancet." We have recently received and examined a variety of the Chocolates of the Compagnie Coloniale, of Paris, and we found them to consist solely of cocoa of superior quality, and sugar. From the "kledlG&l Times and Gazette." The Chocolates oS the Compagnie Colonialf. boast themselves with justice on high quality, careful preparation, no admixture save sugar, and moderate prioe. From the "lledlcal Press and CIreular." We bdieve the prodnctiaas of the Compagnib COLONiAU to be e««plioDa&r honest in qualitr. carefully pvqMned. ridi in aatraioB, and agmaim to the paate. From the " Praetlthtur." This article is free from the admixture of any foreign ingredient, except sugar, and is prepared from the fiaest q;iecinien» of the COooa-bean. SgM at all the Prmclpal Houses throughout the World. LL 257 SOLE ENGLISH MAKERS OF CREOSOTE (FROM WOOD TAB). — TestofPuri^: Insoluble m Price's Glyccriftc. WHEAT PHOSPHATES. R § n m mmd » ,d by Dr. Tilbury Fox, A OKTETIC PREPARATION, SOTVUmO Alt IMPORTANT DEFICIENCY IN THE OKDINABT POOfi Of IHTAIJSS AND cwTT.n^m aVMUIliT IB BIIA9 US MILK). SaliiK4. aad 16 oz. botUes, vUl Mi dbeeticms for use. PATENT GELATINE, A PURE AND ECONOMICAL SUBSTITUTE FOR BUSSIAN ISINaifASS; FORMING A COLOURLESS JELLY, WHICH POSSESSES THE NUTRITIOUS AND RESTORATIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEST CALVES* FEET JELLIES. Sold faiiNM±M3.witli> tained from the Pancreas, by which the d^i^ioa and assimilation of fat ii Dose, 20 to 30 grains. MORSON'S EF FERVESCING CITRATE of .MAGNESIA. CHLORODYNE ~ Has BOW obta ined such univenal celebrity as a remedial agent, it can scarcely be considered a speciality, its essential •sapaHtMa betng known teatert European practitioners. Many of the Chlorodynes of commerce are not of J*"**^*"? """J *■ eBBCts, which has induced Morson & Son, to compound this preparation to remed v thoedefccte. The doM for an adolt m m to so drape (Mid I arim is e^ ta a Tfci iws mu. Ill .7. " T-TIKifn^l^ ~ ^ ? y aria&M^ tat it is b«t tit Trimiii liiiiii in 11.^1 tM 80U3 IN BOTTLEa. HOBSON'S PfiEPABATIONS are sold by aU Ghamits aad Sn^giite j< throughout the World. WORKS : Hornsey Eoad, N., and Summerfield Works, Homerton, K, r^im^p MORSONS KOBSON'S P^daa PrqpanliMM MORSON'S Pepsine Frepaxatio&s MOBSOITS MOBSON'S Fepsine Foroi Pare HOBSON'S MOBSON'S Fepsine Fowdsr MOBSOirS MOBSOITS FepdM mi* MOBSOm P«piiiM Losenges MOBSOITS MOBSOITS Fepsine Oloboles MOBSOITS PEPSINE.— Amone the results of the application ci science to the practice of medicine, none appear to promise more impottaat results than Pepsine, the d^festive {nindple of the gastric juice, which in a pmified state, wid mixed with some inert vegetable powder, or d^sotved in win«, or made into a lozenge, forms a mfaable madiciiie. It appears that the use of tlus important agent is greatly increasing as the IctKMfriedge of its effixts becomes more widdy dif- tosed. A few grains put into a wine-glass with some water forms at once an artificial stomach in which food may be digested ; in this way the relative values of different samples of Pepsine may be deter- mined. At a lecture that was ddivered a short time ago at the Society of Arts, by Dr. Letheby. an experiment of this sort was made, in which laige quantities of aidmal fibrine were digested in bottles, during the lecture, \rith Morson's Pepsine— Extract from the Morning Herald and Standard Newspapers. When CoRvisAKT first announced his invention of Pepsine not a tew of the faculty were inclined to denounce it as one more added to the already tong list of empirical remedies. But by degrees it made its way, and when the preparations of this active principle of the gastric juice of Messrs. BoUDALT, of Paris, made under the personal su- per\'ision of the inventor, were supplemented by the improvements introduced by our own eminent chemists, Messrs. Mokson" c with choice Goods at a very Sv?^^^ K " *^5* ^^^""y ^"'i the correctness of this principll 2 proved by the enormoos development of the Business of the House. The premises for business puiposes only, cover an. area 0/45,000 square feet, and upwaiS^ofrcS SsoM Ji^h^ 'Ti* • S.*" t «"b-divided into the undTni^d De^rtments! each of which is under tlie care of a Manager, who makes a sp^cialtf^ of his oJm oa?^ t^cular branch ; and there axe also laige Factories for the Biodw^oo Sii GLSI«fiSl demand special and penoMd care in their production. " SILKS. VELVET* LACES. RIBBONS. HOSIERY. GLOVES. PARASOLS. HABERDASHERY. «X>8TUME8. DEPARTMENTS. MANTLEa BONNETS. SHAWLa FURS. DRESS MATERIALS. CLOTHS. OUTFITS AND BABY LINEN. CARPETS. DRESSMAKING. FURNITURE. BEDDING. CURTAINS. CRETONNE& CHINTZES. TRIMMINGS. FLOOR CLOTHS. HOUSEHOLD DRAPERY. OF EVERY DESCRIPTIOM. Visitors to London who wish to see a large and choice Stock of Novelties in aU the above Departments, both of our own Manufacture and from all the best Eaelish and Fweiennroducers, are resp^tfaUy invited to inspect our Stock before purchasing llsewhere V^Sm^h^^iJc^ktS. ^^"^ ^^"^ respective clasps, and the 165 TO 173, NEWINGTON CAUSEWAY, 5 TO 17, NEW KENT ROAD. Fmkm$$ : WeilimgUm Street, (Rockingham Gardens, (Brandon (Row, LONDON, S.E. t6o ROBINSON'S GROATS & BARLEY. LETTERS PATENT GRANTED A.D. 1823. Gruel made thin, as is customary, is a comfort m rickness, is sootfahuftotiie ^ stomach, and gives warmth to the body ; made thick, as porridge, it is the most ' nourishing of cereal foods. Barley Water, made thin and nicely flavoured, is a drink especially suitable for warm climates ; made plain, it is a cooling drink in fevers or for motfacn Bomng ; made thick, it is a food for young childiien; or baked, a ddieious paddit^. For aB these putposesthe above-naaied pi^anitioiisaaeadBittedly die best a -- — ^ KEEN'S MUSTARD. First Manufactured A.D. 1742. Is sold throughout the world in square canisters, covered with the well-known red and yellow labels, bearing the above trade mark. The general knowledge of the sdentifie fiict diat Pore Mnstaid is a valuable remedy ia rickness or em erge n cy, and also a condiment of agreeable flavour, stimulating the appetite and promoting healthy activity of the digestive organs, without producing local irritation like red and other peppers, has caused En^ish Mustard f£ fine quality to beomie an isdiqiensaUe hooseiidd requisite. Two Gold Medals. THREE ROYAL WARRANTS, .5) ^LM^ii^^*,. OMLT 1U9AL, pim.AnizT.pinA, &>U) WHOLESALE AND FOR EXPORTATION ONLY BY THE MANUFACTUREIO, KEEN, ROBINSON, & CO., LONDON. a6i ▼arks BELFAST CViwMfc^ EALMlERHAKnosIES CONTRACTORS FOR THE ABYSSINIAN EXPEDITION CUNARD STEAM SHIP C9 INMAN STEAM SHIP C9 MONTREAL 8TEAM SHIP 09 OCfANIC STEAM SHIPC9 lUTIONAL STEAM SHIPC« MCIFIC STEAM SHIP C? 4M6N0IIOTEAM 9H» Cf &POBI Orders Packed AEDALS THE OMLV RRIZE MEDAL FOB ''SUPCMOII EXCELLENCE » ^WASAMMKDOUBUN EXN? BV VIENNA EXH9 ma TVDPfOZES AWARDED MOAT THE MRIS MARUIMB EXHIBITION 1X75 ACOLO MEDAL WAS AWARDED In a Most Superior Manner For ALLpABiilkliiKilkMLo 969 DOUCET JEUNE, Best British Hosiery- Exclusive Novelties IN Scarves. SHXRT MAKSR, 10. RUE HALEVY, (PLACE DE L'OPERA), PARIS. ID Speciality for Monograms AND Embroidered HANOKEnoHiere. ttb aitablishment is recommended for its elegant taste and the careful exeontion of all Ordan. American Customers are atte nded to by M. Doucet Jeane, himself. ^^cotf CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. Exhibited m the British Section^ Class 33, THE CELEBRATED ULSTER" OVERCOAT. BY THE INVENTORS AND ORIGINAL MAKERS, JOHN M'GEK & CO.. BELFAST, IRELAND, WHO AT THE SAME TIME WILL SHOW THEIR VARIOUS SPECIALITIES IN and Gentlemen's Travelling, Shooting, Hunting, and Sporting 6anneal% INCLUDING THE WELL-KNOWN AND MLCH-APPKECIATED Deerstalker Overcoat, the Connemara Wrapper, and Ulster Overcoats for Ladles; ALSO SPECIAL GOODS IN DESIGN AND MATERIAL FOR TRAVELLING WRAPPERS AND BLANKETS. JonN G. M'G£B&Co.wiU have an experienced Assistant in charge of their case, who will afford every infDmutioB to HUDSON & KENNEDY, 11, QUEEN VICTORIA ST., & 25, BUDGE ROW, LONDON, EX. Proprietecs of tiie famed H. & K. CHERRY BRANDY. LV CASES AND CASK'S. A large Stock of Bottled Sherries always on hand in Bond, suitable for any climate. AGENTS FOR THE GLENBURGIE WHISKY. INDENTS TO fi£ ACCOMPANIED WITH REMinANCE OR LONDON REFERENCE. 263 LAMPLOUGH'S PYRETIC SALINE (Have it in your Houses and while Travelling) Isfond pie-eminently beneficial in preventing and curing £PID£]IIC SJtAliIj-POX, by Purifying, Invigorating, ■ad Viulmng the Blood, hasf p«r*n «lw aiicMty has tlu* oomplMiit should take it, and be kqit ia a cool and darkened room to pw v w tt its leaving any tnoB oa A* ftatuiM . (See the new Directions for Usa.) It k inpoftaiit to all, more especially Eociish Ministers, Briti»h Cowols, and Europeans seeking to reside in safety ia Xmical aid FoNtga C" SICKNESS, HEADACHE and NAUSEA are, in most cases, immediate^ siliBMdIqrtakiiwa I of cold water. This can h»nfmtmi oMMarnrica in two boai»^"neetfa]L aggaaal ba sea or bilious sickness. ______ For BILIOUS CONSTITUTIONS, giving rise to vitiated Secretions, Indigestion, and Eruption* am Am Skk^a tMk> spoonful should be taken daily with the dinner in a tumbler of water, and the same quantity on going to bed. OATTTION.— ITse no substitute. See perpetual injunction against imitators; also the Ti»»»»i4».ir»Ti« Judgment asainst the Inland Revenue, before Lords Justices Bramwell, Brett. — - «»■«*• ■ '"'lit Ttim— ITT. 1878, in H. Ijamplough's favour. 118,?^*— '---^ — (In Bottlei^ as. 4f. 6i£., lis., and au.) HOTEL DU LION D'OR. Opposite the Cathedral, RHEIMS. Oat of the best mamged and most comfortable Family Hotels in France. LOUIS DISANT, Proprietor. Q T V • BINGHAM & CO., TAlIiORS AND MILiITABY OUTFITTKRS, 29, CONDUIT STREET, BOND STREET, LONDON. BmeHAU & 00. especially inite the attettiM ef Amtrkan and other tmilltrs to tktir veil knom reputation for qnalitj md West End style. SUTTON SHARPE & CO., PRIKTERS, PUBLiSHERS, AND CON TRACTORS, CENTRAL OFFICES.'— 145, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, LONDON, E.G. 264 LMENT ZENDORFF.e.M ol. lane, londoibr ^^^^^^^ 15^ Jilt iy£ySi2J6aver StreelJ^ewYoilL _ - ^ M the United Kingdom, LMENT ZENDORFF. 6. Idol Lane, londoru. F. DESSANDIER & C2 COGNAC T. ■P ^^T DlSn .TJ"^ "'^'^^'^ STATES .r AMERICA.^ t.M»iJURKE.40.Beayer StreeU^ewYoit 366 • • ! • • • J. BURic^, 6> EXTRA FOREIGN STOUT. Samuel Allsopp & Sons', BURTON-ON-TRENT, ^LES IN BULK & BOTTLE. SOLE AGENTS IK THE OHTTED STATES, Edward & John Burke. 40, Beaver Street, New York. isroTio BOTTLED BY Ihlers & Bell IHLERS & BELL give notice that BASS ALE bottled by tlum is now secured by BETTS' PATENT PROTECTIVE CAPSULE, pey fcLc-simiZes at foot) •ujii'h OPAQUE GREEN SIDES AND YELLOW TOP PRINTJEO IN RED LSTTXHB. THUS FRONT TOP P3* \ Co TMMC MACW ^ Cork ia branded with thair Autograph. BACK fiw « /!» 09fy gfiaraatm for its gemtinmss. Date Due tZ 195S NEH NOV 121994