EXPLORATIONS f\ X i C— &—> f FOR THE MISSION TO UMZILA’S KINGDOM. SOUTHEASTERN AFRICA. American 2£oarti of Commissioners for foreign ^i&sions s, M BOSTON: PRINTED FOR THE BOARD, 1 Somerset Street. 1882. W.R.FISH PHOTO-ENG. BOSTON- EXPLORATIONS FOR THE MISSION TO UMZILA’S KINGDOM, SOUTHEASTERN AFRICA. 3Cmmran 23oar& of Commissioner^ for foreign fissions BOSTON: PRINTED FOR THE BOARD, l Somerset Street. 1882. 4 Mission to Umzilas Kingdom. “ Financially the place is poor, though it has the only good harbor for hun¬ dreds of miles. Transport is by porters, and they demand such wages that there is little business done. Only two carts are to be seen, though cattle can live here. Bricks, sand, and stone are carried on the heads of women. Impoverishing rum is sold to all, black as well as white, without stint. Small rum shops are found everywhere, even out among the kraals, and kept by Kaffirs. “July 30. Had a pleasant chat with the governor to-day, at his office door. He said religion could be freely taught under Portuguese rule, and asked how many Kaffirs came to meeting last Sunday. I replied, ‘ None, but if I have time enough here I will go out among the kraals and see what I can do.’ His Excel- lency smiled assent. If I can establish, as an actual fact, the free preaching of the gospel in English and Kaffir at Lourenzo Marques, this month of waiting will be well spent. “ As nearly as I can now judge, Delagoa Bay is not a place more dangerous to live in than Iroquois County, in Illinois, was fifteen years ago. There have been very few deaths during the past season, and those mostly from other causes than fever. There is a high ridge running northward, facing the bay, where I think a pretty healthy residence might be found. But in some form, if only by coming from Natal and laboring for seven or eight months of the year, this important place should be enlightened with missionary instruction. A shrewd Englishman told me yesterday that I had gone far enough for this year.” When the next steamer came along, Mr. Pinkerton again embarked, August 10, expecting to be landed at Inhambane, and was again disappointed. “A very severe winter storm has prevented the steamer from going into In¬ hambane, so we shall be carried to Zanzibar [1,400 miles distant], and brought back by next steamer. Again there is no doubt as to the case. It is a clear act of God, in whom I humbly trust for guidance. The winter season up here has been most unusual; floods of rain.” The steamer touched at Quilimane, at the entrance to the river Zambesi, and then at Mozambique. August 14, he wrote : — “ A new light arises. An English exploring and hunting party is at Zanzibar and is coming down by the return steamer. The steamer is expected to tow a dhow, for this expedition, from Quilimane to a point opposite Sofala, and there let go the dhow to sail into port with the expedition. It is thought altogether proba¬ ble that I can land with this expedition at the nearest point d’appui to Umzila’s kraal. Steamers will not attempt, for any consideration, to call at any point be¬ tween Inhambane and Quilimane. The hidden dangers from sandy shoals are too great. All concur in the opinion that Umzila’s kraal is the most important strategic point at present for new missions, in this part of Africa, and urge me to keep steadily on my course thither. The fact that Umzila’s Country has not only the sea, with the Portuguese ports, in front, but that it has a secure back door of approach through the Transvaal, is regarded as of very great importance, if I can mak^ friends with Umzila, it will open the country from Delagoa Bay to the Zambesi. If I get landed with Captain Wybrants, at Sofala or Chiluwan, I shall be fresh for the short journey up to the king’s. There are some Inham¬ bane Kaffirs on board, who have been to Umzila’s, and who say they will land with me and help me to reach his kraal. A. very decent trader, who knows the coast, is going with us. 5 Mr. Pinkerton's Journey. “To-day I have been on shore [Zanzibar], Captain Wybrants very kindly offers to land me with liis party at Sofala. Bishop Steere and Dr. Kirk, both of them, received me with great cordiality and show the greatest interest in my work. A Portuguese officer on board has given me letters to a very influential official at Mozambique, and also to the Governor of Sofala. The number of friends I am making, of officials and other residents on this Mozambique coast, gives me hope. We expect to sail southward on Thursday, the 26th. I hear there are Jesuit missionaries now at Umzila’s.” They sailed in due time. At Quilimane, Captain Wybrants kindly took Mr. Pinkerton with his company on board the sailing vessel. They started in tow of the steamer, but the weather proved rough, two hawsers parted, and finally they cast off from the steamer and sailed back to Mozambique. “ This is an unexpected and bitter disappointment, for it did seem a most de¬ sirable and practicable thing, to take this opportunity of getting with all my stores to one of the ports nearest Umzila’s. We were almost there, as it were, when the breaking of a rope threw us back. All advised me to go to Sofala or there¬ abouts with Captain Wybrants. It was regarded as an unusual and favorable opportunity, put right in my way, and so I hope it may yet prove.” He adds “ In my own mind I have been for some weeks doubtful whether it is or ever has been wise for me to attempt getting to Umzila’s kraal this spring. But nearly every practical man on this coast advises me, even urges me, to go and make friends with Umzila, if possible. My own thought is that it might be better to go to In- hambane, hire a house or build huts, get acquainted, learn all that is possible of the coast road to the Sabi, and go ahead next May. I may yet go in by the So¬ fala region, visit Umzila, and open communication with Inhambane, or go there ; but I suspect it will turn out that Inhambane must be our base, and that we shall have a station there. We have heard that the road from Inhambane to Umzila’s is dangerous, which can only be settled by going to the border of the country and finding out.” Captain Wybrants made arrangements to proceed in his sailing vessel to Sofala. Mr. Pinkerton, after waiting at Quilimane nearly a month, when the steamer came along for Inhambane, finally concluded to go there instead of accompanying Captain Wybrants. “ We left Quilimane yesterday, October 1. The weather is fine and we ex¬ pect to go into Inhambane River to-morrow afternoon, if there is no great gale blowing. I pray him who is mightier than the winds and waves of the sea, to make the way open before us. “ My assistant, Mr. Jourdan, has a touch of fever since leaving Mozambique, but I am well thus far. Mr. J. has had the fever before, and gets over it soon. As Inhambane is said to be the healthiest of the Portuguese ports here, I hope we may be well while there, and get up to Umzila’s in due time. “ I alluded in a former letter to my reasons for not trying to go now , from Quilimane to Umzila’s, via Gorongoso. My judgment may turn out to be incor¬ rect, but the risk of failure to get through the region of Manica seemed too great for me, a stranger to Umzila, to make the attempt. All local accounts represent the Landeens, under Umzila’s orders, as very jealous of any white men going to Manica, on account of its gold-fields. Accordingly, I think progress will be much surer at first from Inhambane. After we get acquainted, the route by Quilimane may be the best. 6 Mission to Umzila's Kingdom. “1 think the main-land about Mozambique is a field that some missionary so¬ ciety will find open. The port is good, and communication is regular. Very comfortable houses can be rented or purchased cheaply. There is some fever, but not the worst. There is high, mountainous land within twenty-five miles northward, where a mission might find a salubrious place, but the natives are hos¬ tile to the Portuguese. The language is said to be Makua. No Zulu is un- derstood there. “ Captain Wybrants expected to sail from Mozambique for Sofala, in a small sailing vessel, soon after I left. If he gets on well we shall have a full exploration of those regions, which will help the Board in its new work. INHAMBANE : THE COUNTRY AND CLIMATE. “ October 2. We are anchored off Inhambane, waiting for high tide. The weather is just what I have prayed for, perfect. The coast is higher than else¬ where this side of Natal; looks like the coast there. I trust all will be favorable on shore to our successful progress. “ j Evening. Safe in the river. Prospects are favorable, so far as first impres¬ sions go. Steamer goes to-morrow, so I cannot give you much information till next month. “ I am now at the borders of the Gasa country, at a place where there is not very much fever at any time. I will try to act with vigor and wisdom to promote the object for which I am sent here. Do not cease to pray for me and this work.” At Inhambane Mr. Pinkerton was most hospitably received and entertained by Mr. J. D. Schippers, agent for the Handels-Compagnie. “ To-day, October 6, 1880, I called on the Governor, with Mr. Schippers. Ilis Excellency greeted me with a warm welcome to this province ; said he had seen much of the good work done by American missionaries on the West Coast, and that he should encourage me to the utmost. He insisted on turning out plenty of Kaffirs to carry my goods right up to opposite Bazaruto. So, wonderful pro¬ vision seems to have been made for me here. The acquaintance I formed during my trying delays at Delagoa Bay and Mozambique have helped me greatly. Now if I am given humility and skill and strength rightly to use this official favor, it will be a great help in’getting directly and quickly into the confidence of a large number of people of more than one race, and open a field for the Board in East Africa, which is of the highest strategic importance, and which will tax its powers rightly to improve. No time should be lost in securing the right kind of young men, who can work with enthusiasm, and who, learning Portuguese to some ex¬ tent, and Zulu well, will come and take up this work. . . . The Governor pro¬ poses to send me directly across country to Uinzila.’’ October, 1880, Monday morning, he wrote : — “I am all ready to start; the men to carry my things have been enrolled and paid by government; a few of them are on hand. The first rains have begun ; it is very cool, and if we are once fairly on the road, it is the best time to march just now. I am feeling the full force of tiresome African delays, but I hope to bear up through them all and get to Umzila’s, and do what we hope to accom¬ plish, i. e., establish a mission there, or prepare the way to do so. People here think I shall have only the ordinary inconveniences of going a long journey among the kraals, with very good preparation for doing so. As heretofore my 7 Country and Climate of Inhambane. own health is at my best, no touch of fever, but I cannot say as much for Mr. Jourdan and John Pohleni. They have had a little fever, but I hope regular work at the land journey will occupy them, and be favorable for them. I have been all the time so busy with mind and body, that it has helped, I think, to keep me so well. “ October 22. Tyipambu’s (or Chipumbu’s), northern part of Inhambane Province. You will be glad to hear that we are about fifty miles north from In¬ hambane, walking to Umzila’s, under what seem to be most favorable conditions. We left Inhambane last Tuesday morning in a launch, and came to the northern point of the bay, perhaps twenty miles, to a place owned by Captain La Forte, where we spent the night. We had eighteen porters, and a colored sergeant, who is our head man in charge. One young woman goes with her husband. This is a very good thing for us, as a woman makes the party less like an army. The weather has been perfect, air fine, and we have come from chief to chief, having food in abundance given us, and getting a few men at each chief’s to carry loads to the next chief’s. This morning two petty chiefs carried loads for us on their own heads. They do this in kindness to the porters, who are mostly of their own Tonga race. The fact that our party is under government patronage doubtless helps us. “ The Inhambane government insisted on helping me get to Umzila’s, and on supporting me by sending up supplies and stores after me. Commandant La Forte has selected men who he thinks will place me at Umzila’s kraal, and dur¬ ing these four days of our march thus far they have done splendidly. The gov¬ ernment has paid these men liberally in advance. Everybody in Inhambane took great interest in the expedition. “ There was more or less rain during the week before we left Inhambane. Be- fore that the heat was severe, but this week is fair and cool. The country thus far is much covered with bush. The villages are some miles apart. We cannot talk about wagons at present. My own course for the near future, as to whether I remain at Umzila’s, or return soon to Inhambane, will be determined by provi¬ dential circumstances. If the king is willing, I may try to remain until April, and then meet Brother Richards somewhere, and bring him in, with another mission¬ ary, of course. Communication from here with Natal and America requires time, but I will do my best to keep the latest news reported, and I trust no time will be lost in getting arrangements perfected to place reenforcements in this field. They should land not earlier than May 1, and then, the sooner the better. I will try to see what can be done with a party if it lands at Chiluwan. Possibly we can arrange to take a party from Inhambane to Chiluwan, in a small sailing cutter. Some of the smaller steamers might get in at Chiluwan, but the many miles of sandbank off that port, with shallow water, make it dangerous until better known. ON THE ROAD. “This is our third day of marching. We are tired, but have got along splen¬ didly. We are at the kraal of the last chief in the country ruled by the Portu¬ guese. My men all behave admirably. I have a road cook, who went up with Benningfield., and has been well trained. “ My expedition to Umzila’s has been a taking and very popular thing among the natives, as well as the Portuguese. If it is as popular in Umzila’s Country 8 Mission to Umzila , s Kingdom. my way will be easy. The Lord is giving me a fine start. May be also give me wisdom to improve it. The native’s huts are much better than those in Natal. Last night I slept on a rough bedstead. I have just had some porridge made of beautiful fine meal. Corn is here pounded in large wooden mortars. The coun¬ try has much hush, and it would he unpleasant traveling in the most rainy part of the year. There are different dialects spoken, but Zulu is everywhere under¬ stood. The custom of saluting each other by clapping hands holds among the people here. I do not see any cattle. The people fear Umzila’s Zulus. The road is crooked and winding in places, but there are not any high or steep hills ; there is a little sand in places. “ John Pohleni started from Inhambane sick with fever, hut marching has brought him up. My men have heavy loads, yet they sometimes run out of the path, prancing about in the bush with their loads on their heads. I feel more at home than since we left Natal last year. I do not know that any missionary ever went along here before. I am preaching and teaching Christ in the uttermost parts of the earth, now as never before. The natives here are even in denser darkness than those about Indunduma when we went there. “ 2 od October , noon. A long march this morning, in cool air, has set us eight miles on our way. Passed much swamp and fine bush. Crossed a fine swift stream of beautiful water. Soil is more fertile. Very little high grass, burnt and not grown. “ Sunday afternoon. We are resting to-day. We had a meeting this morning ; a good number present. This is among the untaught heathen. But for my com¬ ing it might be long before the voice of a Christian teacher was heard in this bush. May God bless our effort. Next Sunday we hope to be well along toward the Sabi River. We go rather slowly, but get comfortable huts to sleep in, better than the huts in Natal. We get beautiful meal, both of mealy and amabell. There is said to be plenty in the regions ahead. Marching does not tire me as much as I expected. I waste no strength at hunting or going after curiosities. I push for the main object only, with all my energy. When not shortening the distance between Umzila and me I rest. “ Monday noon, October 25. We have made a long and delightful march this nice morning, and are resting at Tyungu’s kraal for dinner. This is a bush country, rather sandy, mostly level ground. No such hills as in Natal. It is much more of an Illinois country than anything else. I shall send this letter back from the last Portuguese police kraal to-morrow. Then we go into the regions which are ruled by Umzila, but we shall still be among Tongas, and my men are Tongas, and we get on well with Tongas so far. I am visiting all the petty chiefs and head men on the road. We are taking the road near the coast, although it is longer than au inland path. But our road has good water all the way, and the other has not. If all is well we shall reach the Sabi some time next week, and I presume we may reach Umzila’s kraal on the following week. Thus the cul¬ mination of my long journey is rapidly approaching, and the exciting interest in its full success deepens as we move forward. God hath helped and will help us. Continue steadfast in prayer for us. “ Wednesday October 27, a. m. We are at the border, more than ninety miles by path north of Inhambane, and a little south of Bazaruto. All well; weather fine. We go right on.” 9 Death of Mr. Pinkerton. The next word was a telegram received from Natal, December 8, 1880 : — “ Pinkerton died, fever, tenth November, Jourdan returns.” Mr. Jourdan continues the history as follows : — “ We left Inharnbane on October 19, for Umzila’s Country, and everything went on very well until November 3, when we suddenly came into a famine coun¬ try. Here, Mr. Pinkerton made up his mind to send me back with part of our boys. I refused to go back unless all went, and so we sent John back with five boys to buy food. We stayed at this kraal waiting for John till Friday morning, when he came back with about two days’ food for the men, and we again started, and on Friday night, November 5, came to Bakot’s kraal. We rested here for the night, intending to start again in the morning, but Mr. Pinkerton not feeling very well we determined to stay here until Monday morning. On Sunday morn¬ ing he felt no worse and no better. I advised him to let me take him back, but this he would not consent to until the following Tuesday, when he consented. At that time he was much worse, and was growing more so every hour. I was up with him all Tuesday night, and at about 4 A. m., on Wednesday, he told me to take him out of the hut and carry him away to the bush : ‘ For,’ said he, ‘ if I die in this hut, the natives will murder you.’ These were the last words he ever spoke. I got all the boys together, and put Mr. Pinkerton in a hammock and started. I came to the Gabulu River, which I had to cross in canoes. I got everything over all right. This was about 11.30 a. m., of November 10. I had been across about half an hour when Mr. Pinkerton quietly breathed his last. He had his senses up to the time of his death, but was too weak to speak. I was obliged to bury him the same day, and I did so at 4 p. m., John reading the fune¬ ral service in Zulu. The place where he is buried is on the east bank of the Gabulu River overlooking the ferry, under a large moss-covered tree. Latitude 21° 15' South. Longitude 34° 45’ East. “After we had buried Mr. Pinkerton we again started on our march back, and arrived at Inharnbane on November 26, after a hard march of fourteen days.” In the Missionary Herald for March, 1881, will be found a sketch of the life of this pioneer to Umzila’s Country. MR. RICHARDS TAKES UP THE WORK. Mr. Pinkerton expected to return to Natal, and “ to take in Brother Richards and another missionary,” in April, 1881. Rev. Erwin H. Richards and his wife left America, October 9, 1880, and reached Natal, to learn, before they landed from the steamer, that Mr. Pinkerton had fallen by the way ; “ sadly disappointed, because it would discourage the effort to establish the mission in Umzila’s Land, and also because of the great loss the mission suffers in the death of Mr. Pinkerton.” Mr. Richards had no thought of giving up the undertaking. “ I can get but little experience and less knowledge of the language between now and next May. But what there is of me will be ready to start and undertake the work, if you deem it prudent to let me go. Mrs. Richards is just as ready to do all a woman can do, and will go if there is any prospect of success. But we feel as if some experienced head, and one who was thoroughly conversant with the language, ought to go with us. We are very anxious to have the mission carried on, and hope you may find some man to take Mr. Pinkerton’s place.” 10 Mission to Umzila s Kingdom. The mission in Natal was just then weakened by the return of two of the breth¬ ren, for imperative reasons, to the United States. There was no one with suffi¬ cient health who could be spared for Umzila’s Country. After frequent discus¬ sions, in which the decision preponderated, sometimes in favor of deferring, and sometimes in favor of renewing the expedition, the mission finally consented to allow Mr. Richards alone, with Mr. Jourdan, who accompanied Mr. Pinkerton, and two native brethren, to take up the work Mr. Pinkerton laid down. In consultation with those best acquainted with the region, arrangements were perfected to insure success as far as possible. It was decided to go in by Sofala or Chiluwan. As the steamer would only take the company to Inhambane, and would not touch at Sofala, a vessel was chartered for transportation from Inham¬ bane to Sofala, May 12, 1881. Mr. Jonrdan went in advance to Inhambane, to have everything ready there. May 22, Mr. Richards (his wife remaining in Natal and assisting in one of the mission schools) embarked at Durban on board the schooner Dee, with John Pohleni, and William of Inanda. With their goods they took two donkeys for riding. On reaching Inhambane, the aspect of things changed so much that it was thought wisest to give up the voyage further to Sofala, and instead to go inland from Inhambane. Mr. Richards and his company le'ft this place accordingly, June 22, with everything propitious. His own letter uells the story most vividly. “Durban, Natal, May 20, 1881. “ I find myself just on the eve of departure for Inhambane and thence to Chil¬ uwan. In accordance with the advice of our committee here, I have chartered Mr. Rufus Benningfield’s schooner, called the Dee, from Inhambane to Chil¬ uwan. Our cargo will go, according to the usual freight rates, to Inhambane. My native force consists of William of Inanda, and John Pohleni, who is to be all the interpreter I am to have. Mr. Jourdan sailed last Thursday, for Delagoa Bay, and will sail from there on the 22d of May. He will not reach Inhambane more than three days before I do, if we are favored by the winds. I have, at the last moment, secured two donkeys, together with sufficient forage. All of our goods are on board. I intend to remain long enough to gain the favor of Umzila, and to prove the ability of a missionary to remain in health in that country, God being with us. “ I have a letter of introduction to Umzila, from Bishop Colenso. He sends his private card as a token, which Umzila has seen before and will recognize. I also have had letters from the Colonial Secretary of Natal to the Portuguese authorities at Inhambane, and from Dr. Stuart to the Governor of Inhambane.” DECIDES TO GO BY LAND FROM INHAMBANE. “ Inhambane, June 15, 1881. “ Since I last wrote you, much has transpired of vital interest to the present expedition. I left Natal, as I wrote, on the 22d of May, in Mr. Benningfield’s schooner, the Dee. We had calms and bad winds, and very rough sea, till, in the end, we did not reach this place till the 7th of June. On landing, I met Mr. Jourdan, who had been here some ten days, and he had been very thoroughly ad¬ vised to go from this place to Umzila’s by land. I met Mr. Schippers, of the Holland Handels’ Compagnie, who so very kindly boarded Mr. Pinkerton, and aided him in many essential matters; and he immediately took his men and 11 Mr. Richards takes up the Work. rowed me across the Bay to the Governor’s residence, distance two miles. The Governor received us very cordially indeed. I presented my letters from the Colonial Secretary of the Natal Government, and they were received favorably, the Governor telling me he would do all in his power to aid me. His remarks were to the purport that he would provide as many men as I needed, to go by land from this place to Umzila’s, we going direct from his province into Umzila’s Country; but that if I went to Chiluwan, as I intended, he could assure me of no favors, but would give me a letter to the Governor of Chiluwan. I then consulted my best reasoning powers, and after prayer for guidance, I consented to accept tbe Governor’s kind assistance and go by land from this place to Umzila’s. I have since had no reason to change my plans. I am assured, by the Governor, of porters, who will land me safely at Um¬ zila’s, and will return with me, bearing my goods, as many as I choose to bring back. I am also assured that if /hire the men, they will go nicely one or two days and then they will become suddenly ill, and my goods must be left. This is the custom here, and traders have great difficulty. They pay from kraal to kraal, and are subject to great inconveniences, and there is no redress. “ I had planned to sail up to Chiluwan and walk from there to Umzila’s, and from there back to Inhambane. If I walk up to Umzila’s and go from there to Chiluwan, and from Chiluwan return to this place by ‘lighter’, the walking dis¬ tance will be the same. There are two lighters at Chiluwan capable of carrying eighteen tons (ship) each, and they can be hired to come to Inhambane. “I now intend to come back via Chiluwan, but if Umzila gives me credible as¬ surance that next season he will send carriers forme, so that there will be no diffi¬ culty at Chiluwan in securing porters, I may or may not come that way. Chiluwan is a very low, fever-breeding district, and I do not care to reach there in Septem¬ ber or after. July is quite safe. The Governor tells me he will send me by the middle route from this place to Umzila’s. This is high land most of the way, and Umzila’s kraal can be reached in twenty-one days marching from this place. It is only seven days from Umzila’s to Chiluwan. Porters will make the journey in this time, if I can stand it. But I shall go slowly and not make great speed. I have the full congratulations of all the people here in my choice of season, and am assured that there is plenty of food to be had for small pay. “ As I told you, I landed here on June 7, and the same day I assented to the Governor’s proposal to supply me men. lie said they would be ready in ten days, and in seven days a sergeant of the Portuguese army marched forty-three men into my door-yard, and I took their names; but when I inquired how much pay they wanted, I was surprised at their demand of twenty pieces of cloth. I told the Governor that I preferred to pay for the men, and asked him to set the prices. He reluctantly consented, and said I should pay the same as they had before, namely, ten pieces of blue cloth of eight yards each, at three shillings a piece, i. e. thirty shillings. When the men refused, I sent for advice from the Governor. He sent to the chief of native affairs, and the answer was returned while the men waited, that every one who wished more than ten pieces should go home and more men be supplied in their places. They all went but six. To-day the ser¬ geant placed forty-five other men on file before Captain Laporte, and he regis¬ tered them and sent them to me. Ten men came in and I took their names, and gave them ten pieces each, they promising an early start on Monday, the 20th. 12 Mission to Umzila s Kingdom. The rest of the men will present themselves to-morrow. This is native custom, and owing to the great abuse of the natives by some traders, payment for services must be made invariably in advance. When my forty-one boxes were landed from the ship, Mr. Schippers had to stand on the beach with a bag of coppers in his hand and pay each man a half-penny before he went to the ship, or he could not get a man; and as soon as the native gets enough half-pennies for a drink, off he goes and you will see him no more for that day.” INHAMBANE A FIELD FOR MISSIONS. “ Inhambane is on a low flat on the southeast side of the bay, while on the opposite side there is a beautiful range of hills free from fever the year round. There are more than 60,000 natives in and around this place, and Mr. Schippers is surprised that no one sends missionaries here. I think the range of hills to the north of Inhambane cannot be equaled for situation, and as near as I can learn there are upwards of 100,000 natives within reach of a mission, and nearly all would readily understand the Zulu. Mr. Pinkerton recommended this place very highly. I shall know more when I have been through it. Inhambane is not a desirable place in which to reside, by any means. It is composed entirely of convicts sent out from Portugal, with a few officers and soldiers from home. “ I do not know how long I shall remain at Umzila’s. I will do all that will insure success, and will keep my eyes open for a suitable place for a mission. Mr. Benningfield tells me to remain but a short time at Umzila’s headquarters, to do my business and then come away. I am anticipating a pleasant journey and a fair reception by Umzila. “ Father Blanco, who was sent out from Italy, and who came via Cape Town, Free States, and the Transvaal, to the Matabele country, and thence to Inham¬ bane, has just called on me. We had a very friendly visit. He had been wait¬ ing to hear from his missionaries, Catholics, who went to Umzila’s from Matabele- land. Last evening a messenger returned bringing no tidings of any kind, and Blanco thinks his men must have gone back to Matabele-land. lie will go to Natal by the first steamer. He assured me that Umzila’s land was very low, wet, and inhospitable, which I have no other reason at present to believe true. He said Father Law went with oxen and wagons to Umzila’s via Matabele-land. “ Saturday , June 18. It has rained for three days and my plans have been hin¬ dered somewhat in consequence. The men have not all come yet. I expect to get started as soon as Wednesday, the 22d, at least. Mr. Benningfield mounted a horse and with a heavy ox-whip, he — as did Mr. Erskine— compelled his men to come up to their agreements. But such means are not for us to use, and I must wait as patiently as I can till all is prepared. If I am delayed long I will write again.” ON THE ROAD. Mr. Richards wrote again from Maganga, July 2d: — “ We left the point across the bay from Inhambane on June 24th, and during the seven days of marching we have traveled 414 kilometers. The paths in Africa are very crooked, and we go in a zigzag line most of the way. My loads are very heavy ; the provisions are encased in tin, and the tin in wood, each case containing forty pounds weight, and the case making the whole weight sixty-one pounds, while thirty-five is far better. The gross weight of the loads is a ton and On the Road. 13 a half. I have forty-five porters, one cook, two native preachers, and a Portu¬ guese sergeant. My men complain little, although at the end of one hour’s march they will tremble under their loads, and perspire very freely. The people, without exception, are very kind. We have abundance of food at no cost what¬ ever. It is no light draft on a kraal to supply fifty men with food, and especially native porters. A week ago to-day a native chief asked me to stop with him, and be his missionary, and yesterday Ianbye, a dignified chief, asked me to send to America for a teacher for him. How I hope for the same success at Um- zila’s! , “ My native men are John Pohleni and William of Inanda. While we stopped for dinner yesterday William got the whole kraal together and preached to them. “ Every day but one we have had an airy, cool, dry path. I should think fever would not be found here. There is much bush, and oxen would not find water. My donkeys are of very great help. I ride more than half the way. There seem to be a great many people here, and they would respect a missionary. We are ‘one day from the sea,’ so the natives all say; but this means any dis¬ tance from twenty-five to fifty miles. We are to the west of Mr. Pinkerton’s route, on what is called the middle way. I have enjoyed the way very much. Our preparations seem to have been complete, save the medicine chest, which was left in Durban, and we have no need of that yet. “ I saw some of Umzila’s people last night. They had guns, and had been out on a hunt. They were friendly, and I am quite hopeful that I shall succeed among such men. We are well received wherever we go, and I hope we may be among Umzila’s people. “ I have prayers with my men every morning just before starting. We eat by candle-light in the morning, starting at about half past seven o’clock, and at four in the afternoon we come to a halt. Tne villages are not arranged to favor trav¬ elers, and the days are very short. It is dark about five o’clock, p. m., and not light until six and a half A. m. Some days we have to go far, and some days we have to stop at noon, because we cannot make the next kraal or village. I have the best there is at every place. The nights are quite chilly. I have always a native hut to sleep in. Sometimes it is quite nice and clean, and sometimes all filth and insects. The thermometer stands at about 55° at six o’clock, a. m., and at noon it is about 80°. “I hope to reach the Sabi River next week, and Umzila’s in ten days more, but cannot tell how we shall get on. 1 have not had to pay once for food for my men. I do not know how it will be after to-day, but I suppose I must pay for everything at the rate of about two yards of cloth for a day’s food for man and beast. “If you were here to-day you would see me writing under abundant shadows. About twenty natives are watching every move to see if they cannot learn how it is done. I gave one a piece of paper and a copy, and he performed about as well as a child of three years would do. “ We have found no water for two days except in wells, very large, and with a bark ladder to the bottom. We are not in a region of much game. There is no water here for game. Buck are plenty. Their hides retail at fifteen shirt-but¬ tons each. “ I hope to reach Umzila in sixteen days. May God hear the prayers of the 14 Mission to TJmzilas Kingdom. American Board and of all Christians, and give his word a speedy entrance among this most needy people.” SUCCESS OF THE EXPEDITION. By the special favor of Almighty God Mr. Richards succeeded in his great undertaking. He penetrated to Umzila’s capital, laid before the king his object, was cordially welcomed and requested to establish a Christian mission in the country. He returned to Inhambane by way of Chiluwan, November 22, and December 8 reached Durban. His letter from Inhambane, November 23, and his more complete report, January 4, 1882, from Natal, give most interesting and instruc¬ tive particulars of his journey and graphic pictures of the king and country. “ The 3d of July being Sunday,” he writes, “ we rested and held services, and on July 4 (1881), we entered Umzila’s country, and, as 1 think, took it in the name of the Lord. While you were celebrating the birthday of a grand old gov¬ ernment we were busily engaged in discovering favorable symptoms for a grand new mission. Some of the real difficulties of travel in Africa manifested them¬ selves at once. Our work was laid out one half way between the coast route, taken by Mr. Pinkerton, and the direct route from Inhambane to Umzila’s. The direct route was abandoned for lack of water, and the middle route ventured upon for a period of three days from the Portuguese lines. We met with no opposition from the natives; but though food was abundant water was so scarce and so impure that we could not get enough to use, and used with difficulty what we did get. “ My men had to roast their corn in lieu of making porridge, and we could hardly filter enough water for coffee. The donkeys bravely ignored what they could not obtain, and went for three days on three quarts of w r ater each. Under these circumstances I thought best to turn eastward to the coast route, and did so, reaching the swamps at the head of the Gabula River in two days, where food and water were in grateful abundance. Food was supplied gratis through the Portuguese country, but now it was sold to us in baskets containing about one bushel each, or in goat skins of the same capacity. The price of the food was the same whether it were peanuts, corn, beans, or isindhlubas. The cost in this locality was, usually, two yards check or four yards lopas, both thin cotton cloths, — one nine pence per yard, the other four and a half pence per yard. Two bas¬ kets per day were sufficient. The head man of the kraal usually gave a small dish of cimabele, or native corn, resembling our wheat. Sometimes a basket of corn was given, or a couple of chickens, or a dozen of eggs, which were usually spoiled, and on one occasion an old chief made the extravagant gift of fourteen dead rats, which were roasted and eaten as a delicious morsel by the porters, who seldom tasted meat of any kind. For each of these ‘ presents ’ I was ex¬ pected to make one in return, and occasionally a blanket or a coat or a ‘ piece ’ of cloth (eight yards) was demanded. Ordinarily a knife or a small mirror suf¬ ficed.” DELAYED BY SICKNESS. “ On reaching these swamps sickness delayed us for three days. William of Inanda was out for a hunt in the morning, and in the afternoon he was taken with the fever, the symptoms of which were headache, vomiting, intense heat, Mr. Pinkerton’s G-rave. 15 and diarrhoea. Quinine was the only fever medicine I had, as the medicine- chest had been lost somewhere in the ship transportation. [It has recently ap¬ peared, and is now in the possession of the committee of the mission.] Mr. Jourdan went out for a hunt, did not get back till nine p. M., and he had fever the next day. Also two porters, who had bathed in the swamp, were taken with fever. However, in three days’ time, rest, Dovers powder, and quinine had re¬ paired the broken health, and we went on our way. Our course now was due north. We were on the west side of the Gabula River and to the eastward of three lakes which lie spread out over an area of forty miles long by about one and a half or two miles wide. There were no kraals for forty-four miles, and we traveled by day and camped out at night beside the lake. These lakes are all connected, and in the rainy season they empty into the Gabula River. They abound in fish, are covered with geese and ducks, while a myriad of antelope, buffalo, hippopot¬ ami, and other game nightly visit their waters. On July 18th we reached Bo¬ gota’s kraal, the sad terminus of the former expedition, having made the distance from Inhambane in eighteen days’ marching. Mr. Pinkerton came by the coast route to the east of the Gabula River, and reached the same point in sixteen days’ marching.” mr. pinkerton’s grave. “ Bogota, an old man of eighty years and upward, was formerly chief of all the territory south of the Limpopo River. But, upon Umzila’s accession to the head¬ ship of the kingdom Bogota was reduced to the rank of a common Induna, and he now rules a very small space of territory. He is an old man, and exceedingly afraid of Umzila. When Mr. Pinkerton arrived at his kraal, Bogota failed to send messengers to the king, and for this breach of native law Umzila sent down and took away two of his wives. He asked me to pay for his lost cattle, his wives being valued at ten head of oxen each. The next Induna was also fined simi- larly for not sending word to the king of Mr. Pinkerton’s death, and I was requested to remunerate him. I answered them both that that was the king’s business and none of mine. The hut in which Mr. Pinkerton was sick was burned down; the one in which Mr. Jourdan stayed was removed, and the ones in which the porters slept were deserted. Mr. Pinkerton is buried fifty-two miles from the head of the Gabula, and thirty-four miles south from the point where it makes a right angle to the eastward, and seventy-five miles from the Sabi, accord¬ ing to the route. I did not visit the grave, as it was some two hours’ walk and across the river, and the sun was excessively hot. Bogota told me that the mis¬ sionary slept in peace, and that the ford of the river had been changed so as not to disturb him. “ I feel that here I ought to correct certain false impressions of the conduct of Mr. Pinkerton. It was reported that his expedition was poorly equipped and badly provisioned. I took the same purchasing goods, adding nothing, save fifty pieces lopas, which I intended as a present to Umzila; and though delayed beyond all expectation, I had plenty to carry me through, and am sure Mr. Pin¬ kerton would have had no trouble. He had calculated more wisely than he knew, and had foreseen one important item for which the committee of the last expedi¬ tion had made no provision, namely, food for the porters, which bill amounted to upwards of £100. In regard to provisions for himself I cannot write so hope¬ fully. However, I think he had thought the matter through, and it was clear in 16 Mission to Umzila's Kingdom. his own mind. He took the advice of many men at Natal and Inhambane, who declare food an unnecessary burden. He placed confidence in his gun and in the word of friends, and went his way. In our journey we found the country full of ducks and chickens, a crop which is not dependent upon the clouds as are the different grains. I am confident there was food, though they might be obliged to send men out some distance to obtain it. We met with districts where it was necessary to dispatch men to the front and rear for daily food. Had Mr. Pinker¬ ton been well he would doubtless have seen his way clear. Furthermore, there was returned to Inhambane forty pounds of flour, eighty pounds crackers, baking- powder, butter, curry-powder, coffee, tea, sugar, canned fruits, jams, and all that one would need, save meat. So the report that Mr. Pinkerton, or any other member of the expedition, suffered from hunger I regard as a fabrication. Neither do I think Mr. Pinkerton could have been poisoned, as reported, by eating mag- wctkiva, a kind of apple from which, some say, strichnine is extracted. I ate it freely with no perceptible effect save that it satisfied the appetite. Strychnine is extracted, if at all, from the seeds, which are so hard that one cannot crush them in his teeth, aud they are never eaten, so fir as I have observed. “ The distance from Inhambane to Bogota the way we came is two hundred and fifty-six miles. We made it in eighteen days. Mr. Pinkerton came direct in sixteen days, the distance being about fifty miles less. So I conclude it was not forced marches that caused his sickness. But from experience I can say that one day’s march in a November sun, amid swamps and marshes, is quite liable to give one fever; and, as nearly as I can understand the case, I think Mr. Pinkerton died from fever caused by exposure in the sun. Mr. Pinkerton is also charged with being unwise in journeying inland in the rainy season. But I venture to say that any ordinary able-bodied Christian would have done the same thing. Everything was ready. The Christian people at home were enthusiastic, the Home Board anxious, the Natal Mission hopeful, £500 had been expended, the rainy season was not considered necessarily fatal; and, rather than return to report his own efforts a failure, and bring to naught so many expectations and so great an outlay of funds, he chose to go ahead and take such chances as a kind Provi¬ dence should throw in his way. Though he did not live to see the king, and scarcely to view the land, yet his name will rightfully be put down as the first corner-stone of that which is to be in the new mission.’’ APPROACHING UMZILA. “ From Bogota we followed on up the Gabula three days, nearly fifty miles, till we reached the angle where it turns eastward to the sea, lat. 21° 15' S. (Baines). Here we turned to the northwest, and in about three hours came to the chief Induna of Umzila, south of the Sabi. IBs name is Masikewana, a fine specimen of the Zulu race, very dignified and grand in his habitation, and here we were obliged to wait until a message was sent to Umzila and one received from the king. We were told this would take ten days. It took thirty-seven days, and all the time my porters were eating away my cloth. I made the chief a present of a fine blanket, and he gave me food in abundance. Food was plentiful and at quite reasonable prices at Masikewana’s. The average cost per day was seventy- five cents, or one and a half cents per man. Each morning my door was sur¬ rounded with from twelve to twenty persons who wished medicine. Tooth pulling The King's Kraal . IT was quite a novelty, and several teeth were extracted with the wonderful machine which would take them out in a moment. The native dentist dUs the tooth out with an iron spear, often working for hours and lacerating the victim to an extent almost unimaginable. “ Time dragged its slow length along until the thirty-seventh day had come, when the messengers returned at five o’clock in the morning. Masikewana im¬ mediately called a council to hear the report, and in due time we were told that Umzila was favorable, and that we should go ahead at once. We required no urging, and on the morning of the 27th of August (Saturday) we started. We were delayed by sickness of men two days, and reached the Sabi safely Friday noon, the 2d of September. We struck the Sabi at Shibasan. Here the banks were very high, two hundred and fifty feet (according to Baines), and the river two hundred yards wide and five feet deep. The deep, narrow valley of the river, the clear open waters of the Sabi, and the foliage which crowned the crest of the steep and rocky banks was a most refreshing sight. Here was the first pure and plenteous water we had seen since we passed the lakes, seventy-five miles below. All this was in pleasant contrast with the Gabula, a river which was a sluggish, muddy stream, fifteen yards wide. I have no means of knowing how far from the coast Shibasan is situated, but think it is about forty miles. The natives said one day’s travel without a load. We journeyed three days on the south side of the Sabi; then crossed for one day, and the next day crossed and recrossed again, the cause being that the path was mostly in the bed of the river, and the channel drove us from one side to the other. We came to Sandabas on the 7th of Sep¬ tember (this is the place from which Benningfield and Erskine branched off for Umzila’s) ; but we were so afraid of a poor water supply that we followed the river thirty-three miles further, and then made direct for the king’s kraal, having followed the Sabi for a distance of ninety-two miles. Our path now lay through a dense rubber jungle, and rocks and hills became abundant, and also little ravines which caused much inconvenience to, both men and donkeys. We found food and water to be very scarce when we left the river, and they continued so until we reached Chiluwan on our return. We got on, however, without serious difficulty; emerging from the thorny wilderness we came to a beautiful country, the land rising higher and higher every hour of our march, with clear fresh water, which at this time was the greatest luxury. Saturday afternoon, September 17, we reached Umlas, a small village on a high hill, twenty-eight miles from Umzila’s kraal. Here I was taken quite suddenly with fever. The fever did not continue for more than three or four hours, but a dysentery set in which confined me to my bed for twenty days in a hut recently used for a goat-shed, and nearly ex¬ hausted me. My men told me, ‘Africa no good, Umfundis die.’ But the hand of the Lord was under me all the time. I was able to sit on my donkey, and, though very weak, reached Umzila’s in one day’s march of twenty-two miles. The march did me good, and on October 10 I fired my good-morning salute of six guns at 1 Umoyamuhle,’ Umzila’s royal residence. The name of Umzila among the natives is Uyamondwa. His subjects never call him by his right name. The name of his kraal is Umoyamuhle, i. e., ‘a haven of fair winds.’ It is on an extensive plain, on the south bank of the Mligwayatna River. The plain is fif¬ teen hundred feet high by my aneroid, which gave the same as Baines’s. White men are not allowed within the royal harem, and we were obliged to pitch our 18 Mission to Umzila's Kingdom. tent under a big tree in a meallie garden. The king gave permission for us to settle where we liked, and sent four pots of pombe and two goats for our morning meal. He also deputized Induna Uhlakauhlaka to convey messages to us.” INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. “Erskine, Owen, and Benningfield, who had visited Umzila, informed me that I would not see the king under four days’ time after my arrival. But at four p. m. of the first day he sent word that he was ready for an interview. Uhlakauhlaka had given instructions how to divide the presents, and, taking such as he had indi¬ cated, we set out to meet the king. Being unable to walk, or scarcely to stand, I rode a donkey. We found the king with one Induna, his only body guard, sitting under a tree not far from his kraal. My hoy spread a fine blue blanket before the king for him to sit on, hut he refused, saying the ground was accustomed to him. The Induna saluted us all for Umzila, and immediately I began laying the business of our coming before the king. John Pohleni acted as interpreter. Umzila gave excellent attention to all that was said from first to last. He is the finest looking black man I have ever seen. His face is full of intelligence, and is genuinely pleasant. He is tall, somewhat spare in flesh, yet he is well propor¬ tioned, and might be called a handsome gentleman in any country, — if gentlemen ever are handsome. I began by stating wdiere I came from and who sent me, and called his attention to the Natal mission, and the fact that he already knew much of missionary enterprise. Then I mentioned the good which it was hoped would accrue, both spiritually and temporally, from a mission in his land, and that I had been sent on purpose to take back his permission for the missionary to come and begin labors among his people. Umzila then asked the name of our king, and of the Indunas who sent me. I gave the name of President Garfield, and described our government; and for Indunas gave the names of the officers of the A. B. C. F. M. and of the members of the Prudential Committee. “ The king could not understand how I knew so much of Natal, but the matter was duly explained. He then inquired after Cetewayo. I reported him well and safe, and that I hoped to see him soon returned to Zululand. “ The sun had now set and the king reminded me that it was time to go. So I bade him good-by, shaking hands with him, and he promising to call me again as soon as his chief Induna, Magajou, should come. “ On the next day it stormed violently, but the king did not forget us, for about eleven A. M. he sent down four bullocks, bidding us take our choice for one to slaughter. The day after he sent two tusks of ivory to say ‘good morning’ with ; one weighed twenty pounds and the other six pounds. This was Tuesday, and it rained till Friday. “ On Saturday Umzila sent word that he would see me, but other important business took him away, and in the evening I sent word that I could not see him on Sunday. On Monday, at six a. m., he sent for me, and I went, and found him on a mound just in front of the gate to his kraal. After the usual salutations the king asked me to repeat what I had previously told him, so that Magajou, who was now present, should hear. I did so. Then many questions were put on many subjects. Could I pull teeth ? Could I put them back again ? Could I cure various diseases ? Could I make powder ? This latter question he dis¬ cussed at length. I finally agreed to tell them how it was made, but they must Return to the Coast. 19 find the ingredients and do the work themselves. Magajou was quite imperious about the powder, and made it a sine qua non of our returning. He said he must be taught to make powder first, then we could go on with our ordinary work. But Umzila had previously indicated his own mind by asking that when I came again I should bring so and so. Furthermore he did not insist on our bringing powder so much as on bringing our wives. He wished us to come to stay, if we came at all. Then there was a show of the presents, and further busi¬ ness was delayed for the time. The thing for which the king was most grateful was an old copy of the Testament, much used by Mr. Pinkerton on his expedi¬ tion. He sent a special messenger four different times, through a heavy rain, to thank me for the book. “ Blankets that had red in them were rejected or given to his children. Red being a royal color could not be given away out of the king’s family. Knives, forks, plates, candles, matches, etc., were received with favor. Coats and blan¬ kets were given away on the spot to Indunas and friends. When the presents had all been bestowed, the king sent a boy to carry a forty-pound tusk to my tent for a ‘ good-by tusk.’ He then told me I could report that he would receive five missionaries and their wives, and wished them to come as quickly as possible. We had a final shaking of hands, and the king went away to invoke the various spirits to bless his meallie gardens, while I returned to the tent and prepared the boxes for the return trip. During the day Magajou came down to bid us good- by, and took home with him a present of a blanket, one pound of powder, and one bar of lead. He was quite friendly and was anxious to have us return soon.” RETURN TO THE COAST. “ Early in the morning of October 18 the porters had adjusted their loads and we had begun our homeward march. We had gone fourteen miles when a delegation of four men, sent out by Umzila, came up to pilot us through to Makupi, a distance of eighty miles. This was an entirely unexpected favor. The men were very pleasant in all their relations with us, and often supplied food which we should not have got had they not been the king’s officers. We had no diffi¬ culty in reaching Makupi, a chief of great importance and extensive command. This is where Captain Wybrants died. The place is in a line due east from Um¬ zila, and five days from the Sabi River. The water is so scarce here that Maku- pi’s wives are obliged to go a distance of four and a half miles to obtain a supply for their daily wants. We reached the place at 10 A. m.,' on October 22, and on the evening of the same day we met Mr. W. J. Mayes, engineer of the late Wybrants’ expedition. He had been commissioned by the English consul of Mozambique to bring the remains of the late Captain Wybrants to Zanzibar, and was now on his way to Makupi. Mr. Mayes had been accused of having taken the goods of the Wybrants party, and sold them on his own account. I found his jmpers satisfactory, and the ‘ canons,’ as the natives called them, are at Um- zila’s now, namely, about fifty loads of flour, sugar, etc., sealed in iron tubes, of the contents of which I have a complete list. These goods will be left for us to examine and purchase, probably at reasonable rates. Mr. Mayes went to Makupi, but a Mr. Heathcoat of iuhambane had preceded him by a few days, and the body had already been removed. Mr. Mayes then resolved to go back to 20 Mission to Umzilas Kingdom. Chiluwan with us, and for valuable services rendered on the way I took him on to Natal, as he was without money and friendless. “ On our first day’s march, after meeting Mr. Mayes, we made an error in cal¬ culating the distance, and the result was quite a serious attack of sun fever, which fell to my lot. We started at 2 A. m., and at 8 a. m. reached water and a kraal, and ought to have stopped for the day ; but after inquiry we thought we could make the next kraal by 11a. m., and so decided to move on. But the kraal did' not appear till 4 p. m. The sun was very hot, and I became baked to quite an uncomfortable extent. The fever did not last long, but its effects reduced me seriously, and I was carried to Chiluwan in a shilah or hammock. Food and water were very scarce. We kept to the north of the Sabi all the way; did not go within twenty miles of the river. The mouth of the Sabi is some twenty-five miles below Chiluwan instead of above it, as Baines has put it. We were cordially received at Chiluwan, November 3, by Mr. A. A. Pinto, and during our stay of seven days he did all in his power to make us comfortable. Governor Continho also showed us many favors and promised to aid us in every way within his power. For twenty-five pounds we hired a small boat called a baroquine, sufficient to take us and our goods to Inhambane, but not the porters or the donkeys. The por¬ ters were supplied with cloth with which to purchase food, and sent overland to Inhambane. The donkeys were sold. I was the recipient of many presents at Chiluwan and also at Inhambane. “ November 10 we left Chiluwan and touched at Bazuruta Island on the 12th, where the commandant entertained us most hospitably and hoped we could call there on our return. We reached Inhambane the 17th of November, where Mr. Scbippers gave us free entertainment. He is agent of the British India Steamship Company, and also of the Holland Trading Company, and last season the American Zulu Mission made him their agent at Inhambane. Here I learned that three Catholic priests who entered the port of Sofala on their way to Umzi- la’s had all died at Sofala, and that two priests who came in toward Umzila’s from the west were also dead. This I learned on Catholic authority, and do not doubt its probability. “ After a pleasant stay of eight days we left Inhambane on the schooner ‘ Sara ’ for Natal, where we arrived safely December 1, after a smooth passage of six days. “ I sold provisions to the value of sixteen pounds to the captain of the ‘ Sara,’ and at Chiluwan and Inhambane I paid the customary prices of board for all of our party out of provisions and cloth, unused in the interior, although the board was offered gratis. This I did lest it might be reported that this expedition was also ‘ close-fisted.’ A full account of.all gifts presented or received will be found among the treasurer’s bills.” RESULTS AND SUGGESTIONS FROM THE JOURNEY. “ I will now mention a few points which have not been noticed heretofore. In regard to my companion, Mr. Jourdan, I must say that during my sickness he was most attentive, and usually he was quite companionable. Of John Pohleni and William of Inanda I can say nothing but good. They preached at every kraal from Inhambane to the Sabi, and from there onward they did much service for the Master. John went ahead and made arrangements for food, while William 21 Results and Suggestions from the Journey. was my right-hand man for all circumstances. As soon as we camped they both called together groups of natives and read the Bible, and sang and talked till supper was ready. “ The porters were exceedingly well behaved. Several times they went from sunrise of one day till 9 or 10 p. m. of the next without food, save such as they could pick from bushes by the way, and they never came to me with complaints. They chose the route, and when food was wanting they held their peace, took an early start in the morning, and went till they found it. They carried their sixty pounds each for a distance of 825 miles for $7.50. This was paid them in cloth. “The donkeys proved themselves to be all that could have been expected. They ate but little, drank little, gained in flesh, and would carry a man twenty- five miles in a day. They were slow in their movements and would not keep up with the porters, but we all came together on the halts that were made at every shade-tree and watering-place. They were stung by the tsetse several times without any visible effects. I washed them in ammonia, however, every morning while passing through the fly district. “ The country from the Portuguese lines to the Sabi is almost a dead level. We saw no hills, but one river, the Chipumbi, before reaching the Gabula; no rocks, no stones, no large trees, nothing but grass twelve feet high, or paths through the ashes where the grass had been burned. There is little or no water away from the rivers, and the land seems almost uninhabitable. On the banks of the rivers are flourishing fields of native crops. Cotton grows wild, and in goodly quantity. “ The Sabi valley is one delightful garden ; sweet potatoes, peanuts, corn, ama- bele, pumpkins, beans, and izindhloon being the chief products. “ After leaving the Sabi the country was rocky and covered with underbrush and thorns. Emerging from this we gradually ascended until we reached the plain on which Umoyamuhle is situated. My aneroid, as does that of Mr. Baines, marks this plain at fifteen hundred feet. Just across the little river, at the back of Umzila’s kraal, the hills rise from one thousand eight hundred to four thousand feet high, extending north to Mt. Tshamatshama. Umoyamuhle is to the south of a range of hills, which are south of the Umswaliza River. This whole Umzila district very much resembles Natal in hills, bush, and climate, and no doubt the same crops will grow here as in Natal. I consider this whole range of territory as healthful and inviting to missionary enterprise. “ From Umzila’s, to the eastward, we descended till we reached Makupi, and from there to the coast the country consists of vast level plains. Makupi is situ¬ ated in a dense rubber bush which is eighty miles through. From this rubber bush to the coast food and water were very scarce, and the kraals far apart. There were large herds of antelope, buffalo, and eland, but it required an expe¬ rienced huntsman to secure any game. The herds remain in the center of a large plain, and when disturbed they do not leave the plain but caper about in it, and always just out of range of the best gun made. Wherever game is found the tsetse fly abounds. This destructive little creature, with his wings folded like a pair of scissors, resembles an ironclad monitor in appearance, and in oper¬ ations, too, for that matter. Our dog lived till we reached Umlaus, having passed the fly district in safety. But it was of no avail, for at Umlaus he was devoured by a leopard. 22 Mission to Umzila s Kingdom. “ I found the people to be most numerous in the Portuguese territory, and the next most populous district was the region of the Sabi, and after this Umzila’s vicinity. There are, however, an abundance of people within reach of missionary efforts in any of these localities. On the Sabi and beyond, the kraals contained either eight, sixteen, twenty-four, or thirty-two huts, according to the wealth of the head man of the kraal. The kraals are as near together on the Sabi as in the Portuguese region, but not so prosperous. They are in these places from four to six miles apart. At Umzila’s, after leaving a few clusters of huts close to the royal kraal, on going eastward it is fourteen miles to the first kraal, fourteen miles more to the second, and on an average from Umzila’s to the coast the kraals are nineteen miles apart. To the north and west of Umzila’s, I am told that the kraals are much thicker than to the south and east. All the people were far better clothed than in Natal. The men dress in skins alone, and are well covered from the hips to the ktiees. Often a fine skin covers the body from the should¬ ers to the feet, both before and behind. The women also were clad from the hips to the knees, but with cloth instead of skins. To one traveling through the country, native modesty in both men and women seemed to be strictly re¬ garded. If the porters wanted water or wood day or night, two or more always went together, — one to report any misdemeanors. If men and women went at the same time for water the two parties were totally oblivious of each other’s presence. So far as I could judge, I would that the civilized of Natal were more like the heathen of Umzila’s land in matters of dress and propriety. “ The people from Inhambane upwards build quite fine huts. They are usually about fourteen to twenty feet in diameter, as high as they are wide, and with an upright wall six feet high, and floor and wall cemented with white ant clay. The door resembles a woodchuck’s hole more than an aperture for human beings to enter. “ The people have an idea of a creator, not altogether incorrect so far as it goes. They call him the Nkulunkulu, the ‘ Great Great.’ The creation of the world and the headship of all power is ascribed to him, but in a very general and quite indefinite manner. Superstitions of various kinds are denoted by the bones and skulls of animals hung up in the trees of a kraal as tutelary deities. The people have an idea, probably obtained from Natal, that it is not well to work on Sunday. They do not observe the Sabbath, however, unless it is con¬ venient. “ The people are divided into two classes, the Amatonga (the original owners of the country, but now the plebeians), and the Amanguni (the Zulu lords with Umzila for their chief), who wrested the land from the Amatonga. Umzila con¬ trols the Amatonga, who are in the large majority, by placing an Amanguni for a chief over every five or six kraals. This prevents amalgamation and sudden revolts. The Amanguni speak the pure Zulu. The Amatonga have a dialect of their own, but are quite familiar with the Zulu, though they do not use it. Zulu is the court language of the kingdom. Umzila collects skins for taxes from all his people. Ilis system is good though extreme, as he takes away anything he can find in the way of skins, save what the people wear at the time of taxing. These taxes sustain his army while in the field. All his able-bodied men are sol¬ diers, though they live at home. They are a kind of minute militia-men. The Portuguese soldiers of Chiluwan and Inhambane are nearly all mep who have Results. — Thermometric Markings. 23 served in Umzila’s army. The Governor of Chiluwan said that he dare not take them to the main land lest they turn traitors and fight for Umzila. Chiluwan and Inhambane have each about two hundred of this royal kind of soldiers. “ The scientific instruments which I had were all satisfactory. I have no rea¬ son to doubt the accuracy of the pedometer, though it made our walking distance 825 miles. The path was always serpentine, and we often went in a zigzag direc¬ tion across the country to find food and water or to avoid bush and swamps.' The markings of the thermometer are given elsewhere. “ Divine Providence was round about us from the first to the last. There was but little sickness ; we were not obliged to travel on the Sabbath save once only, and then for lack of water; food and water came to hand before the hour of ex¬ treme need ; the king’s heart was softened and he granted our request; provision was made for our transport where we least expected it, and all things were made ready before us, where human agency seemed unavailing. “ Thanks be to God for all his mercies. And now that the way is opened, let us unite in prayer to the Divine Master for good and faithful men to enter in and reap the harvest of souls for the kingdom above.” “Blessed are they that do IIis Commandments.” MARKING OF THERMOMETER AT UMZILA’S KRAAL. The record for June is copied from Mr. W ■ J. Mayes. Date. Morning. Noon. Night. Date. Morning. Noon. Night. 1881. 1881. June 1 60° 62° , - Oct. 11 60° 78° 60° 2 62 72 70° 12 68 7° ) . 70 3 60 72 60 13 64 68 / muC I i 68 4 54 68 53 14 62 i rain. 65 5 54 80 60 15 70 78 70 6 54 89 60 16 80 90 86 7 60 90 60 8 60 84 60 9 60 90 60 10 60 80 60 11 60 84 60 24 Mission to UmziloL s Kingdom TABULAR VIE AY OF DAILY DISTANCES TRAVELED. From Inhambane to Umzila’s. ■ 1881. MILES. June 24.15 25 .• .... 10 26 Sunday.0 27 .15 28 .24 29 .9 ;io.13 July 1.12 2 .7 3 Sunday. 105 miles from In- hambane.0 4 Reached limits of Portuguese territory.23 5 .15 6 .18.6 7 ..15 8 .12.6 9.17.4 10 Sunday.0 11 Reached the Gabula River . . 5.8 12 William sick.0 13 Four men sick.0 14 .12 15 .18 16 .12.6 17 Sunday.0 18 Arrived at Bogota, 255.8 miles from Inhambane .... 10.8 19 .12 20 .11.4 21 Leave the Gabula River and arrive at Masikevvan ... 12 Aug. 27 Leave Masikewan.12.6 28 Sunday.0 29 Men sick.0 30 Men sick.0 31 .13.2 Sept. 1.20.4 2 Reached the Sabi River, 337.4 miles from Inhambane . . 16.8 3 .12.2 4 Sunday.0 5 Crossed Sabi River .... 16.2 6 Crossed Sabi River twice, Son- daba.13.8 7 .22.4 8 .10.2 9 Left the River Sabi .... 12.6 10 .19.2 11 Sunday.0 12 .22.8 13 .7.6 14 .23.8 15 .6 16 .16.8 17 Reached Umlaus. Sick here twenty days.12 Oct. 8.22 9 Sunday . 0 10 Arrived at Umzila’s .... 6 Total distance. 577.8 Days traveled, 41. From Umzila’s to Chiluwan. 1881. MILES. Oct. 18.14.4 19 .22.4 20 .19.8 21 .14.8 22 Arrived and left Mkupi ... 18 23 Sunday.0 24 .24 25 Sick here.0 26 .23 27 .0 28 .14 29 .21 30. Sunday. No water .... 20 31.27 Nov. 1.21 2 Arrived at the coast .... 17 Total distance.246 Days traveled, 13. Whole number of miles, 824. Whole number of days traveled, 54. Average number of miles per day, 15-jU /■