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'^lisstons to tljc l^catljcn 
 
 No. XXXI. 
 
 i 
 
 ! 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK 
 
 WITH THE 1 
 
 i 
 
 BISHOP OP NEW ZEALAND, 
 
 FROM 
 
 ^uflilanli t(j faranalii, 
 
 IN AUGUST 1855. 
 
 BY THE YEN. C. J. ABRAHAM, 
 
 ARCHDEACON Or WAITEMAT.A. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED POR 
 
 TBE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL; 
 
 AND OV TH8 
 
 SOCIETY rOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOIVLEEGE, 
 
 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS ; 
 
 4 , ROTAL EXCHANGE ; 16 , HANOVER STREET, HANOVER SQUARE ; 
 RIVINOTONS, BELL St DALDY, HATCHARDS, AND iLL BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 1856. 
 
 Jane.] Price Sixfl^nce. 
 

JOURNAL, 
 
 <te. 
 
 July 31s<. — The Bishop arrived at the College in the 
 afternoon, and at 5 o’clock set out for Papakura. The 
 party further consisted of Rota Waitoa, the Bishop’s 
 trusty companion in all his former walking Visita- 
 tions ; and two Maori men who had been working on 
 the College farm of late. It is quite delightful to 
 see how perfectly unchauged Rota is in the sim- 
 plicity of his character, notwithstanding his raised 
 position to be a Deacon in the Church. He car- 
 ried a portion of my burden all the way to Tara- 
 naki, after the first day or two, when he saw it was 
 too much for me ; and -worked away much more 
 readily and cheerfully than our paid lads, at striking 
 the tent, cooking, »kc. ; in short, the Bishop said he 
 was just as useful to him in these respects (and much 
 more so in others), as when he took him twelve years 
 ago on his first overland w'alk. My pikau (or 
 burden) weighed 30 lbs. ; and very hard work did 
 I find it, that first night, ploughing through mud 
 up to our knees, from Panmure to Papakura. The 
 Bishop exchanged with me occasionally, and so 
 helped me on ; for his weighed only 15 lbs. or so. 
 I began to fear that I should be a drag upon him, as 
 A 2 
 
4 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 we were bound to Taranaki on urgent business. 
 The GoTernor had requested the Bishop to go down 
 there, to try and arrange matters between the two 
 contending parties of natives, who had begun firing 
 at one another within five miles of the tOTsm of Xew 
 Plymouth ; and the English were afraid that if the 
 party they favoured was beaten, they woiild take 
 refuge in the town, and so involve the settlers in 
 the quarrel. They had, consequently, made urgent 
 applications for troops to be sent to keep the peace, 
 and the soldiers were to be there in a fortnight or 
 so. But as the arrival of soldiers might be mis- 
 understood by the natives, the Government was 
 anxious that the Bishop should go down, and try to 
 make peace between them ] and explain that the 
 soldiers were not coming to interfere in their 
 quarrel, but to protect the English town from being 
 involved in it. Therefore, we were anxious to be 
 there before the ship andved with the troops; and, as 
 the Bishop had been sent down there ten years ago, 
 with Rota, on exactly the same errand, and had 
 accomplished the journey in seven days, by forced 
 marches of thirty miles a-day, I felt pretty sm’e that 
 if that was to be the order of mai'ch this time, I 
 should knock off in a couple of days. Howevei’, as 
 we went on we found, by the end of the third 
 day, that a year’s stay in England, with railway 
 travelling and seven months’ sea voyaging, had 
 beaten the Bishop oflf his walking legs ; and Rota 
 was much fatter and less active than in the year ’45 ; 
 so that when Rota relieved me of 15 lbs. of my 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 5 
 
 pikau, I was equal to the pace, and was not likely 
 to detain them. Besides, on that former occasion 
 they had no companions to carry the food, &c. ; 
 whereas now our two lads were knocked up the two 
 first days, being quite unused to the work. 
 
 Well, to go back to our first afternoon, we started 
 in the rain, and there was no moon ; so we scrambled 
 on as we best could, through the swamp between 
 Panmure and Otahuhu. There we overtook the 
 mail, who wished to go in company with us as far as 
 Kawhia. We had not got out of Otahuhu, when we 
 heard a cry behind us that Mr. Ashwell was there in 
 a house, having ridden down from his station ex- 
 pressly to see the Bishop, and having thus almost 
 missed him. We stuck in the mud, waiting for him 
 to overtake us, and held a Synod of Clergy there, 
 drenched with rain. It was most amusing to see, 
 or rather to hear him — for it was pitch-dark — con- 
 tinually jumping off his horse into the swamp, and 
 tiying to persuade the Bishop or me to ride. He 
 seemed so shocked to be riding aloft, while his 
 Diocesan was up to his knees. 
 
 We got to Papakura by 9 o’clock that night, 
 having walked about thirteen miles from College. 
 There is a beautiful place for an encampment there, 
 — wood and water in abundance, and we soon 
 pitched our tent, and made ourselves comfortable, 
 in spite of rain. 
 
 Aug. ls<. — Up early. Breakfasted and started off 
 for Waiuku. This is a roundabout way of getting 
 there. We might have crossed from Onehunga in 
 
6 
 
 JOURNAL OF A VTALK FROM 
 
 twelve hours; but I fancy the Bishop took the land 
 route to spare me the sea-sickness. After leaving 
 Kunciinan’s farm at Opaheke, it is a verv’^ unin- 
 teresting country. We took the surveyor’s line for 
 a path, and found the tide tip, which stopped our 
 progress over a creek. The Bishop found a ford. 
 There are several rapid streams to cross, very deep, 
 but not wide. We generally got over them by 
 fallen trees ; but as these trees are very narrow, and 
 our wet shoes very slippery, it is a chance if you 
 get over without a ducking. The Bishop fell iu 
 over head and ears at once. The only remarks he 
 made, was one of an.\iety for his watch and his 
 pedometei’, — the other, when he found them unin- 
 jured and kept dry iu his waterproof girdle, was, 
 that he now understood the full meaning of the 
 poet’s language about “purling brooks.” We did 
 not reach Waiuku that day; stopped at Whanakahu, 
 all of us foot-sore and weary. The mail left us. 
 
 A^lg. 2d . — Started early for the Awaroa, and found 
 a very large pai’ty of natives encamped there, at the 
 portage, with supplies of wheat. There could not 
 have been less than 200 people, and we could see 
 uj)wards of thirt}^ canoes. The AVaiuku carts were 
 carrying off the produce, to be embarked for the 
 Auckland market. Of course, we had much talk 
 with all these people. They were veiy hearty in 
 welcoming back the Bishop, and asked infinite ques- 
 tions about England and the Queen. They were 
 chiefly from Eangiawhia, (the people who sent the 
 Queen the present of flour some years ago, — the 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 7 
 
 first grain that has been grown and ground by the 
 Maories ; and to whom slie sent a present of the 
 picture, which is iiighly -valued by them,) and were 
 guided across the river in a war-cauce. At last, we 
 got off on our walk, aaid were guided across a very 
 deep and ugly swamp, a quarter of a mile wide, on 
 fallen trees, under water, so that you had to feel 
 -with your stick before you for your footing. Luckily, 
 
 I had hobnails in my boots, and so ching to the 
 slippery boards; but the Bishop had none, and he 
 had some very narrow escapes. The natives of the 
 place very kindly eased me of my pikau, or else I 
 should have tumbled in. We then had a walk on 
 the beach for ten miles to Maraetai, Mr. Maunsell’s 
 old station at AVaikato heads. We hailed a canoe ; 
 and when it arrived with three people in it, one man 
 named Tiopira, and most undeserving of the name 
 (Theoi)hilus), wanted to charge 16s. for taking us 
 over. We refused, and stepped back on shore. The 
 other two remonstrated with the fellow, and accord- 
 ingly he reduced his charges to whatever we ehose 
 to give him. The native teacher and chief on the 
 other shore was very indignant at the Bishop’s being 
 so used, and promised to make a tariff ; and, more- 
 over, he made us a present of food. This is a fair 
 instance of the eharacter of the people, perhaps- 
 Many persons abuse the whole race as covetous, 
 because they meet with such impostors as this 
 Tiopira ; but they forget that two out of the 
 three were the very reverse, and that the leading 
 men repudiate such conduct. An Englishman here 
 
8 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 said to tlie Bishop the other day, “ I find your 
 Lordship’s words in one of your Journals fully 
 verified, where you say that the Maories are the 
 most covetous people you ever met with.” To 
 which the Bishop added, “ But you have only quoted 
 half my sentence, for I said further, ‘ except the 
 English.’” 
 
 We got to Mr. Maunsell’s empty house at 9 
 o’clock at night, very tired ; the sand-walking being 
 a very fatiguing termination of our day’s work. 
 We were right glad, therefore, to have no tent to 
 pitch, and to find wood and water at hand. The 
 Bishop had established half-a-dozen frightful “raws” 
 on his soles and heels, and was besides very sick and 
 unwell. Rota and I did what we could to make 
 him comfortable ; and we agreed to give ourselves a 
 thorough rest that night, so that we might enjoy 
 Sunday at one of our own villages before we got 
 among the Wesleyans, who occupy all the territory 
 between Waikato and Taranaki. 
 
 Au^. 3d . — We did not start till 10 o’clock in the 
 morning. The Bishop better, and cheering up as we 
 reached the top of the first hill, and saw our desti- 
 nation before us, 100 miles off, — the snow pyramid 
 of Mount Egmout, overhanging Taranaki, and rising 
 8,000 feet above the sea, greeted our eyes, spai’kling 
 in the sun, and seemed to lighten the hearts of our 
 Maori lads, when, for the fimt time, they saw the 
 glorious monarch of New Zealand mountains. It 
 reminded me very much of my first impressions on 
 seeing Mont Blanc, twenty yearn ago, from Geneva. 
 
ACCKLA^•D TO TARAXAKI. 
 
 9 
 
 Not that this has any avalanches for his sceptre ; 
 but at this time of year the snow comes two-thirds 
 of the way down his sides, and the “eternal sun- 
 shine settles on his head,” as seen in the distance ; 
 while the necklace of clouds float half-way, and 
 when you are on the spot very often shut out the 
 view. The walk from this point to Taranaki con- 
 sisted of continual changes from ridge-paths and 
 table-land to woods; up and down, high and low, 
 sandy beach, rocky beach, cliffs and rivers, so that 
 every muscle was alternately called into action, 
 and no one set overwrought ; besides, the successive 
 varieties freshened the spirits. I cannot think of 
 any place but the coast of Devon, north and south, 
 that could afford such beautiful and grand scenery 
 for so many days continuously. We were never 
 more than a couple of miles from the coast. We 
 were then walking for an hour, perhaps, on the 
 beach ; then inland, on an underclifiP, like the Isle 
 of Wight ; then rip the side of a high hill, covered 
 with forest trees of every variety of colour and 
 shape, starred with luxuriant fern trees on the 
 slopes. Of course, the ascent involved a descent 
 through the forest on the other side; and though 
 this is difficult walking, from the slippery paths 
 and the tanglement of the roots and supple-jack, 
 yet it changes the muscles, and helps you to get over 
 the ground pretty quick. Then we come down into 
 a rich valley or glade, with a fresh stream rattling 
 over the stones to the sea, or else deep enough to 
 make you wade up to your waist. The bath re- 
 
10 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 freshes you for another hour’s walk on the beach, 
 and then comes the tug of war. After dinner, a 
 stray goat-path along the side of the cliff, the earth 
 crumbling beneath every step, and your nails worn 
 out with digging “ stand punkts ” diffei'ent from 
 Neander’s, and your hands cut to pieces by the toe- 
 toe, which you rashly laid hold of to save yourself 
 from falling. Luckily, there are no dinner-pai-ties 
 on the road, or at the end of your journey, else 
 3 mur hands would be hardly presentable, what with 
 toe-toe and rocks. These last form the colophon to 
 the day’s varieties. I did not care for the slippery 
 cliffs, for I had hobnail shoes, as I said before. But 
 when we came to the rocky beach, and the tide was 
 coming in, and we had to leap from stone to stone, 
 and climb the rocks as best we could, the Bishop 
 was in his element; springing from one to another 
 like a schoolboy ; laughing and joking, scrambling 
 and clinging on, like a sailor to a mast ; while my 
 hobnails were slipping off every stone, and my hands 
 streaming with blood from every crag 1 had to seize 
 hold of. However, his turn for the struggle had 
 come, — up the muddy, clayey, or crumbling cliffs, 
 when his shoes were like glass, and his poor wrung 
 heels and soles were gnawed half-an-inch deep with 
 holes. Kothing, however, could dam up the vein 
 of humour and wit with which all this was met ; 
 and he assured me that he did not suffer half so 
 much as I thought he did; and that he now be- 
 lieved what post-boys in England used to saj' of 
 horses with raws, that they would not feel them when 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 11 
 
 they got hot, and that he ■wasted a good deal of un- 
 nessary compassion upon them. “ Non si male nunc 
 et olim sic erit,” ■was my motto; but he would not 
 allow it ■was male at all. llis keen sense of the 
 beauty of nature, his painter’s eye for a sketch, 
 and thorough enjoyment of the beautiful weather 
 we had had since the first day, and his unceasing 
 flow of quotations from Homer, Milton, and Horace, 
 made the walk comparatively light to me. As to 
 himself, in spite of his heels, he always asserted 
 himself “ Persarum recje heatiorem,'’’ and pitied the un- 
 happy folk that rode in railway-carriages. But not- 
 withstanding his making the best of everything, he 
 never incurred himself, or put us in the way of, 
 unnecessary danger. And so, on this evening, when 
 about 4 o’clock, or an hour before sunset. Rota led 
 us up a winding precipice where no path was visible, 
 and the landslips had made all uncertain, and he saw 
 there was every chance of our being benighted on 
 this precipice, and having to pass the cold winter’s 
 night on our hind-legs, or else break our necks in 
 the attempt to ci’oss ; he marched us back to Waikato 
 River, and there we slept. 
 
 Aiig. ith . — We had the usual alternations of ridge- 
 paths and sandy beach to Rukerewa. The people 
 came out to greet us, and made us presents of pota- 
 toes. We carried off the population with us to 
 Rangikahu, the last station of any Clcurcli Missionarj’ 
 towards Taranaki ; so we wished to spend our 
 Sunday there. We found ourselves, accordingly, 
 arrived at our destination by early afternoon. 
 
12 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 Such a beautiful spot for a regular Native Con- 
 gregation to take root, if they could be persuaded to 
 make a right use of their position. It is an amphi- 
 theatre intersected by a stream, which comes down 
 from the distant hills ; and would carry all their 
 produce in canoes to the sea, a mile off ; and small 
 vessels could come in near enough to take off their 
 pi'oduce to Manakau, for the Auckland market. On 
 one side, — where the few people now live, and where 
 we encamped, — it is all fern land, and the lower por- 
 tions on both sides the river would grow beautiful 
 crops of wheat and potatoes ; while the upper por- 
 tions, near the sea, would make excellent sheep runs. 
 Then, on the opposite side, there is a forest affording 
 an inexhaustible supply of wood, and bush range for 
 cattle. The Bishop pointed out to the people all 
 their advantages, and urged them to come and live 
 together in closer connexion ; so that they might the 
 more easily support themselves, and have the advan- 
 tages of pastoral visitation more frequently, besides 
 those of education. However, they are intent solely 
 on keeping pigs, which run almost wild in the bush ; 
 and give no thought or trouble, besides that of hunt- 
 ing them up with dogs, twice a year, wheu they wish 
 to drive them 100 miles to market in Auckland. 
 The Bishop always points out to them the different 
 moral effect of the swineherd’s and the shepherd’s 
 and tiller’s mode of life ; and illustrated it very 
 happily from the language of Scripture, where all we 
 read of the former is, that after the miracle of the 
 devils entering the herd of swine, the Gadarenes 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 13 
 
 besought him to depart out of their coasts ; and the 
 Prodigal Son, who had left his father’s home, went 
 to feed swine, and would fain have eaten the husks 
 that the swine left : while, on the other hand, every 
 most tender and winning name and work of Christ, 
 is connected with the life of the shepherd, and the 
 tiUer of the earth. 
 
 We found a state of things at Rangikahu sadly 
 illustrating some of his words ; for the Chapel, by the 
 side of which we pitched our tent, was shamefully 
 neglected and uncarcd for, and in fact had become a 
 pigsty. The Bishop set himself and us to work to 
 clean it out, and all the churchyard around it ; and 
 Rota effected quite a metamorphosis of it by strew- 
 ing it with fresh fern, to the astonishment of the 
 native teacher and his people. After this work 
 was done, we set off to fetch firewood, &c., for our 
 two days’ use. I was amused at seeing every even- 
 ing, immediately on our arrival at our sleeping-place, 
 how exactly the Judge's remark was fulfilled about 
 the Bishop unconsciously resembling Paul at Melita, 
 who evidently had gone to fetch firewood directly he 
 landed, and from it shook off the viper into the fire. 
 
 Aug. 5th . — We had a good attendance at all the 
 Services. At the early morning we had the Litany ; 
 then, at 10, the rest of the Morning Service. The 
 Bishop preached on the Gospel of the day, — the 
 Parable of the Bad Steward, — and applied it with 
 great force to the state of things in the island gene- 
 rally ; especially reminding them of their own former 
 zeal and attention to religion, when he was there 
 
14 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 some years back, as contrasted with their present 
 slackness in all matters of religion ; and their activity 
 in acquiring money, yet at the least possible cost 
 of care and industry ; all this, of course, based on 
 the verse about “ the children of this world being in 
 their generation wiser than the children of light.” 
 But talking with the people about this sad change 
 that has come over them, we got the invariable 
 answei', “ E tika ana,” “ It is true what you say 
 which at first used to please me to find that they 
 so readily acknowledged what was wrong in them- 
 selves, and what would be the right thing. But 
 since I see that this goes no further than words, and 
 does not the least imply that they intend or wish 
 to remedy their faults, I fear the acknowledgment 
 falls under the head of that son’s answer, who said, 
 “ I go. Sir,” and went not ; and perhaps it would be 
 more hopeful if they did not so readily acquiesce in 
 what you say, but afterwards “ repented and went.” 
 At School, in the afternoon, the Bishop took the 
 children ; Rota, the non-readers ; and I, the readers. 
 They were all more than usually ignorant ; but when 
 the Bishop catechised all on his sermon, they one 
 and all showed how thoroughly they had caught the 
 gist of the matter. In the evening I preached on the 
 Epistle for the day. Altogether we spent a very 
 quiet and peaceful day, and were refreshed for the 
 week’s walk that awaited us. 
 
 Ai/^. &th . — We crossed over the ridge- paths to the 
 beach, which we called Hardbake — it looked so like 
 that well-known confection — and reached Whanga- 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKT. 
 
 15 
 
 roa by noon. There we found one of our College 
 scholars of yore, Wiclif by name ; he was looking as 
 pleasant and amiable as ever, and did not seem to 
 have fallen back at all into Ramya Maori ways. He 
 and his friends were exceedingly hospitable to us ; 
 and after having given us a good dinner on potatoes 
 and shell-fish, they launched their canoe, and paddled 
 us five miles up the river to our road. The old 
 chief came down to accompany us, dressed in a large 
 military cloak, given him by Governor Wynyard, and 
 a white hat, holding in his hand his sceptre, or in- 
 signia of chieftainsliip — the Meri, a large flat piece 
 of green stone, handed down, like Agamemnon’s of 
 old, from generation to generation . Her was delighted 
 at the Bisliop’s salutation, “ Haere mai, Kawana,” 
 “ Come hither. Governor of Wliangnroa thus recog- 
 nising in him a sort of English office, as well as his 
 native chieftainsliip. For, stranye to say, this old 
 chief is most anxious to sell parts of his land to the 
 English, and to get them to settle amongst his 
 people, and become one with them ; and he actually 
 took us all the way in his canoe, begging the Bishop 
 to write down certain words he had used about the 
 two races dove-tailing into one another like, that he 
 might show them to his own people and the neigh- 
 bouring chiefs that oppose him. I say, strange to 
 say ; for this was no other than the notorious old 
 Kiwi, who had written to the Attorney-General six 
 months before, to threaten he would fling over the 
 cliff any Englishman that passed his way, unless the 
 Englishman who killed the native (one of his tribe) 
 
IG 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 on Christmas-day last, was hung. However, the 
 old man was ashamed of his letter before the day of 
 the trial, and came to the judge to make a sort of 
 apology, and offered to accompany the judge on the 
 day of trial to court, which of course the judge de- 
 clined. The old man afterwards told the j udge that 
 he was quite satisfied with the trial by jury, in all 
 points but one ; and that was that he had expected to 
 see gentlemen and educated men on the jury, instead 
 of an Iwi to-carta (a set of men that drove carts). 
 However, I should say that no great reliance can 
 ever be placed on these wayward creatures holding 
 to any notions they have taken up, or adhering to 
 their peaceable intentions ; for this same old gentle- 
 man, “ Te Kiwi,” on the same day after the trial, 
 came into Major Nugent’s house as wild as a tiger, 
 and with evident intention of mischief. He held his 
 Meri behind his back, and danced about the room in 
 a towering rage, threatening vengeance. Major 
 Nugent kept his eye fixed on him, and got a table 
 or chair or something always between him and the 
 chief, till at last another native came into the room 
 in a state of gi'eat excitement, and forced old Kiwi 
 out. Major Nugent thoroughly underetands the 
 people, and deals with them as a pai’ent would deal 
 with a wayward, wilful child. Instead of making a 
 fuss about old Kiwi’s antics, he persuaded him that 
 no man of rank ought to go about without shoes 
 and stockings ; accordingly he got the old man in 
 the stocks by inducing him to wear a pair of tight 
 boots, which made him limp about instead of being 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 17 
 
 able to dance and flourish bis tomahawk round men’s 
 heads. He has quite succeeded in subduing the 
 dangerous activity of the old man. Major Nugent 
 has learned these sensible lessons of managing the 
 Maories, as a mother of a family would manage her 
 troublesome fractious children, from Sir George 
 Grey, to whom he was private secretary for some 
 time, and who always gained his objects with the 
 native chiefs by some such simple process of “ Nur- 
 sery” government; as, for instance, when he got 
 Rangihaeata to make a road by giving him a gig — 
 the immediate consequence of which was that the 
 old waiTior set all his slaves and free people to work 
 at making a road, on which he could drive his new 
 toy. 
 
 AVe found some English settlers in the open spaces, 
 formerly cleared by natives, as we walked through 
 the forest : one family of the name of McArthur, 
 another Phillips from Bath, another Day. All 
 seemed pleased with the land, which, though small 
 in quantity, was very good in quality. ^Ye stopped 
 half-an-hour after sunset at one of these “ saltus,” 
 called Mata, where Rota and our lads had proceeded ; 
 and pitched our tent in a beautiful spot, where I 
 expect to see, in five years’ time, a fair population, 
 and perhaps a Church. 
 
 Auff. 1th . — Walked off towards Aotea harbour; 
 passed through a village of W esleyan natives, called 
 Makaka, very kind and hospitable. They had had 
 a man'iage the day before, and we came in for the 
 remains of the feast. Certainly, we fonnd no dif- 
 
 B 
 
18 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 ference of treatment from these people all the way 
 down ; their hospitality perhaps exceeded what we 
 met with from our own, till we came to Taranaki ; 
 and here the Wesleyans have been very zealously 
 endeavouring to make out that Katatoi’e and his 
 party are all Churchmen and bad people, while 
 Adam Clarke and his Te ninia Pa are all good Wes- 
 leyaus. Unluckily for this argument, Katatore’s 
 baptized name is Waitere, the name of the leading 
 Wesleyan Missionary in these parts, Mr. Whitely. 
 We got down to the entrance of the Aotea harbour, 
 where the canoes generally cross, but the wind was 
 so high, and the waves so rough, that no one would 
 venture to come and fetch us across ; so in vain we 
 lighted fires and made signals — we lost the whole 
 day, and no one came till 7 o’clock at night, when 
 the wind lulled. This loss of a day was a serious 
 * one ; not only for itself, but because it threw us out 
 of the low tide sand-walking all the rest of the week. 
 
 Aug. 8th . — Walked off early to Kawhia, nearly 
 seven miles, intending to be there to breakfast with 
 Mr. Mitford, the Custom-house officer. Finding him 
 in small quarters, and his wife not well, the Bishop 
 only stayed with him, though he was very pressing 
 to me. I went with Kota and our lads to the inn, 
 where we were most hospitably treated by Mr. Charl- 
 ton’s married daughter, who refused all payment for 
 our hearty breakfast. We bought fresh provisions 
 for our journey, and she gratuitously added a large 
 supply of dough she had made up, which fed us for 
 the rest of the week. 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARzLNAKI. 
 
 19 
 
 At Kawhia we fomid gi'eat excitement, in conse- 
 quence of a letter from Mr. Turton, the Wesleyan 
 Missionary at Taranaki, summoning them to the 
 number of 400, to come 'with guns and help “the 
 friendly natives,” as he chooses to call Adam Clarke’s 
 party. These Kawhia people had the good sense to 
 say that they would not stir at the bidding of a 
 Tangatoa Noa,” who had no business to interfere 
 in such a point ; but if the Governor sent for them, 
 they would come. Curiously enough, another A\'cs- 
 leyan Catechist, the Schoolmaster there, told iis that 
 it was a most dangerous experiment sending for 
 these natives at all, as it was by no means certain 
 what side they would take when they got there. 
 
 A couple of Englishmen, named Wcstmacott and 
 Peter, took us in Mr. Mitford’s boat across Kawhia 
 harbour, five miles to Maiha. Thence we passed 
 by the tomb of the two great chiefs, Pihopa and 
 Te Manihcre, that have lately died, who would have 
 interfered with effect to settle this unhappy quaiTel. 
 “ Atawhaitia te Pakeha,” “ Be kind to the English,” 
 was the burden of all their talk in former days. I 
 should have said that at Kawhia, near Mr. Mitford’s 
 house, the natives point out the spot where the first 
 native canoe (the Tainni) from Hawaiki, landed 500 
 years ago. There is a rock, something like a canoe, 
 on the beach, which the Maories believe to be that 
 identical Tainni petrified. A full account of this 
 canoe and her voyage is given in Dr. Shoidland’s in- 
 teresting second volume “ On the Manners of the 
 New Zealanders.” 
 
 B 2 
 
20 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 The view from the mountain top between Pihopa’s 
 tomb, is perhaps the grandest I have seen in New 
 Zealand. Looking northwards, you have Kawhia 
 harbour, surrounded with richly-wooded hills, Whan- 
 garoa promontory, and the sea ; and a distant view 
 reaching to ^tlanakau and Auckland. To the south, 
 the two pretty landlocked lakes of Taharoa lying 
 below us, in the midst of the wooded hills; just 
 beyond them, the gi'eat hill called Mocatoa, and 
 Tapiri Moko Cliff; and Taranaki’s snowy top in the 
 far distance, out to seaward. I wished for my wife’s 
 pencil. The Bishop could have sketched these 
 grand views, but he never has used his opportunities 
 for drawing like his brother Bishop of Tasmania, not 
 for lack of interest and pleasure in it, but for lack 
 of time ; because generally when he is travelling 
 through the country, wherever he stops, he has to 
 talk to the natives, instead of indulging his own keen 
 taste for the beauties of nature. 
 
 After some indifferent beach-walking, we reached 
 Hari hari, and found the place empty, but plenty of 
 potatoes stored up on the top of the house, which we 
 took the liberty of helping ourselves to, and next 
 day met the owner, to whom we acknowledged our 
 debt. It is not unusual to help yourself in this 
 way, and write up on the door that you have done 
 ^so, and hang up a shilling or so in payment. 
 
 Auff. 9th . — This was the hardest day’s work we 
 had all along, and most thankful were we that the 
 fine weather lasted up to the close of this day; as, if 
 the rain that fell this night had caught us on 
 
AUCKLAXD TO TARANAKI. 
 
 21 
 
 Thursday, the route would have been almost dan- 
 gerous, and perhaps not passable. It began with an 
 ascent up a place called Hapuku, where no path was 
 visible ; a landslip having left the cliff almost desti- 
 tute of shrub and clothing. Consequently, we had 
 to dig our way with our hands, and feet, and sticks, 
 along a crumbling slippery goat’s path. The Bishop 
 was pioneer, and did the hard work, as usual ; and I 
 certainly could not help amusing myself with the 
 thought of some of the good people in England, who 
 have complained of the Bishop not visiting the West 
 Coast oftcner, trying the experiment of a Visitation 
 this way. I pictured to myself the complainants 
 holding on by their hands and nails to this crumbling 
 crag, 500 feet overhanging the sea; and when they 
 slipped, catching hold of the grass which cuts your 
 hand like a knife. The fact is, however, that the 
 Bishop has been this route three times in twelve 
 years, and has visited the West Coast by sea on six 
 other occa.sions. When we complained to one of 
 the old chiefs about this road, he conceived he had 
 given a sufficient reason why he should not try to 
 improve it, by saying that God made the earth, and 
 we must take it as we find it : whereto the Bishop 
 replied that " God made the potatoes grow, but he 
 doubted whether the old gentleman ate them in 
 their raw state.” The fact is, there might be a 
 beautiful road made, at no very great expense, the 
 whole way to Taranaki, by just skirting round the 
 hills and keeping inland a little. After the slippery 
 ascent of Hapuku, we had to mount Mocatoa by 
 
22 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROJI 
 
 a ridge-path. We were an hour and a-half going 
 the one and a-half mile of Hapuku, and an hour 
 going up Mocatoa, according to the Bishop’s new 
 pedometer. We have tested the instrument now in 
 many ways, and found it pretty correct. The Bishop 
 will probably walk back from Wellington to Auck- 
 land before Easter, and test his former measurements 
 of the East Coast, and then publish a full and cor- 
 rected itinerary in the almanack. The present path 
 up Mocatoa is on a ridge overlooking the old pre- 
 cipitous goat’s path of Tapirimoko. It is a fright- 
 ful-looking place ; and I cannot conceive how people 
 used it so long. 
 
 The place is like the inside of a brown cup, with 
 a small ledge just inside the idm. We got to Xuku- 
 kakiri that night, and pitched our tent inside a half- 
 finished house. The rain came on at night, 
 loosened the earth in which the tent-peg's were fixed, 
 and brought it about our ears, in the middle of the 
 night, and swamped us. The Bishop assured me 
 that nothing gave you a better night’s rest than 
 having been waked up in the middle; an Irish, yet 
 not altogether unfounded view of the matter, as I 
 certainly did sleep sounder afterwards. I find I am 
 not a good hand at sleeping on the hard ground, 
 and seldom got more than four hours sleep at night ; 
 though, for lack of caudles, we went to our blanket- 
 bags at seven or eight o’clock at night. The great 
 treat was, when you could pitch a tent on the sand, 
 and could dig out a little hole for your hip to lie in. 
 But I was mainly kept awake by cold feet. — How- 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 23 
 
 ever, as one has not much time for reflection by day, 
 when walking along a bush path, and keeping your 
 eyes and thoughts intent upon it, lest you break 
 your shins or neck by carelessness, — it is no un- 
 pleasant thing to lie awake at night, and review 
 the day’s work, with the past, present, and future. 
 The Bishop used to laugh at me for saying I had 
 been awake at night; and seemed to think it was 
 like what we charge our wives with at Taurarua, 
 when a book is being read out, and they drop off, 
 and yet never allow it. 
 
 We were kindly received by the people of Nuhu- 
 kahari . Rota has been this way six times ; and is so 
 heartily welcomed by the people, that he is sure to 
 attract all kinds of presents of food, even if the 
 Bishop were not with us. 
 
 Aug. lOf/t. — One of the native Teachers, a relative 
 of Rota’s, accompanied us on the road, and helped 
 us up the rope-ladder, which is rather a formidable 
 affair, as it consists merely of flax leaves tied to- 
 gether; and you have to pull yourself up a sheer 
 precipice of rock by it, w'hich, as I said before, my 
 hobnail boots rendered more difficult. This man 
 carried our knapsacks for us up the rock, so that an 
 active man would not make much of it. At Waik- 
 awau — the next village — we saw a specimen of an 
 old Maori chief of the best style, — a perfect gentle- 
 man by nature ; very handsome features ; quite grey 
 hair. He made us a present of potatoes, and es- 
 corted us to the boundary of his estate The 
 adjoining portion he had sold to the Government; 
 
24 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 and, as he stood under a large Puriri tree, which was 
 eighteen feet in circumference, and pointed it out as 
 the border mark of his land, I wished I could have 
 sketched him and his tree, each so noble of the 
 kind. We could not get far that afternoon, as we 
 reached Kaiawhi-point too late for the low-tide 
 passage. This is a precipitous rock running out 
 into the sea, and can only be rounded at low water 
 by jumping from stone to stone. Accordingly, we 
 had to wait on the north side till twelve o’clock the 
 next day before we could start. 
 
 Avg. Wth . — When the tide was half out, we at- 
 tempted the passage, but were foiled. Papaki tonu 
 is the expressive onomato-poeia to describe a place 
 where the sea beats against a rock, and leaves 
 no space : (it is pronounced like pop-pok-i;) and 
 great would have been Johnny’s delight to have 
 seen his papa chasing and playing hide-and-seek 
 with the waves, as he attempted to jump to the first 
 stone, and had to run for it again and again. At 
 last he I'eached the first block, and there found a 
 reservoir of kupus, which, though pronounced like 
 cuckoos, are not birds, but shell-fish. Immediately 
 that he had discovered this, he gave notice to the 
 !Maories, who are so fond of the food, that they 
 made an attempt to reach the place, and got a good 
 ducking thereby. Having no such appetite, and 
 standing in fear of my hobnails, I bided my time. 
 It took us an hour or more to accomplish the half- 
 mile round the point, and the whole process may be 
 described by the old game of “ Hop, step, and a jump.” 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 25 
 
 I suffered severely from sci’cambling up the rocks, 
 made doubly rough by the small shell-fish which cut 
 my fingers to pieces : but there was no danger, and 
 only the fear of getting thoroughly soused ; so that 
 the whole scene was more like a parcel of boys out 
 larking, than a Bishop, Priest, and Deacon on a Vi- 
 sitation. We rounded the point at three-quarters 
 tide, but it must be remembered that they wei’e 
 «ea;>tides ; and probably we could not have done so 
 had it been the spring-tide. 
 
 On reachiug the southern side we came in sight of 
 a fine headland, like a judge with his full cauliflower 
 wig on. A man put us across the Awakerio River, 
 and we got to Mokau by 4 o’clock. Mr. Schna- 
 kenberg, the Wesleyan German Missionary, was away 
 at Taranaki. His English wife, a genuine simple 
 woman, cried at seeing the Bishop again, and 
 begged hard for a good chat about England, and 
 wanted to be hospitable to us; but we had been so 
 long on the road that we could not afford to lose an 
 hour or two; and, besides, we were rather shy of 
 taxing the old lady to receive so many for two nights 
 and a day, as the morrow was Sunday. She sent us 
 across the Mokau River in her canoe ; and we had to 
 run hard to get round the southern head of the 
 river, as the tide was rushing in so fast. We got to 
 a place called Waiki for Sunday. 
 
 Aiiff. \2th . — As the place belonged entirely to 
 Wesleyans and Roman Catholics, we contented our- 
 selves with our Service from the Prayer-book, which 
 they all attended; and, instead of a Sermon, the 
 
26 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 Bishop catechised the children on the Creed. They 
 fed us, while we stayed, on potatoes ; and we nursed 
 a crying baby, and fed it with arrowroot, which the 
 poor little thing relished, and found less griping than 
 its mother’s tobacco milk. We left her a supply of 
 arrowroot and sugar, and taught her how to make 
 it. 
 
 Aug. loth, Monday . — Starting early, we at length 
 came among our people again at Wai-iti; where the 
 Ngatiawa tribe begin northwards, reaching, as they 
 do, all along the coast, with intexwals, to Wellington, 
 and over to Nelson, and as far oflF as the Chatham 
 Isles on the east. The people of Wai-iti immediately 
 recognised the Bishop’s shovel-hat, and greeted him 
 warmly. There was nothing remarkable about our 
 walk this day. 
 
 From Mokau to Taranaki it is all flat plain sailing, 
 except one spot, called Pari-ninihi (Slanting Clifis), 
 of white chalk-looking clay. This had been the 
 bugbear of the march. We heard continually of 
 the rope descent, 150 feet perpendicular, and I was 
 prepared for my hands being sacrificed, in going 
 down the rope like a sailor, of which the Bishop, 
 being a skipper, thought little. Like most other 
 apprehended dangers, it turned out a molehill instead 
 of a mountain. A landslip had occurred, and the 
 descent by rope was only twenty feet, and not more 
 difficult than going down the side of a man-of-war 
 into a boat. 
 
 Aug. lith . — The natives have so neglected their 
 inland paths, that two of the Wai-iti men who 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 27 
 
 undertook to escort us toward Waitera by the path 
 inland instead of the beach (as it was high-water), 
 altogether lost their way, and dragged us through high 
 fern bush for an hour or two, till at length we 
 reached Onacri. As all the male inhabitants of the 
 Wesleyan villages above Mokau had gone off to 
 Taranaki, to aid Arama Karaka, so the men of these 
 parts had gone to aid Katatore and William King. 
 The former belonged to the Ngatimaniapoto tribe, 
 and these to the Ngatiawa. From Oneiro and other 
 places, men accompanied us to Waitera, canying 
 guns, and w'e began to feel oui’selves in the midst of 
 war. We walked along the beach to Tanawha Cape ; 
 which I suppose was worshipped in former days as 
 a god, that being the name of their Kerens, Neptune, 
 or Proteus. It grew dark as we approached Waitera ; 
 we saw lights in the distance, and heard loud shouts, 
 which we supposed indicated a military camp, with 
 all its lawlessness and excitement. What was our 
 surprise, then, at finding, when we reached the river, 
 and were carried across in our English cargo boat, 
 that so far from there being any war camp, or any 
 hostility to the English on W. King’s part (of which 
 he is accused), that he aud all his men had gone out 
 to tow off an English schooner which had got agi'ound 
 at the mouth of the river, and which they were pre- 
 paring to haul out when the flood-tide came up. 
 Accordingly, we saw only one or two men that night, 
 who gave us board and lodging in the Pa. I had 
 never been inside a regular Pa before, and next 
 morning was struck with its character. Having a 
 
28 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 high stockade of forest timbers all round, and standing 
 on two or three acres of ground, it is broken up 
 within into small squares, where separate families 
 reside ; all strongly fenced and connected by nan'ow 
 passages, well adapted for defence. Once in the 
 middle, it is like a labjTinth to find the way out, or 
 from one house to another. These men succeeded in 
 getting off the schooner, which was full of potatoes, 
 which a trader had bought of the Maoriesfor 1,000^. 
 
 Aug. \5th . — Next morning, before we were up 
 and out of our hags (not beds), two natives put their 
 heads in at the tent-door, and tena koe'd the Bishop. 
 One was a fine old gentleman, with a kindly face and 
 no guile in it. The other younger, but perhaps 
 sixty years of age, with a broad, open, handsome 
 face, somewhat bloated, perhaps, yet not at all un- 
 pleasant. They came in, and sat talking for an hour, 
 while we shaved and dressed and ate our breakfast 
 with them. When they went away, I asked who they 
 were, and the Bishop said the first was an old chief 
 of the tribe he had known long ago at Nelson, and the 
 younger of the two w'as the notorious and much-abused 
 William King, the man who first saved the Govern- 
 ment under Sir George Grey in 1 844, by driving old 
 Rangihaeta out of the country; and then took a 
 decided line against the Governor, who tried to pre- 
 vent his coming up here to Taranaki, to settle in the 
 inheritance of his forefathers, whence he had been 
 driven by the Waikatos twenty-five years ago, but 
 was now' allowed to return in peace to the unoccupied 
 land, when Sir George Grey threatened to prevent his 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 29 
 
 returuiug, by planting guns at his canoes. He still 
 persevered, and some of his people brandished their 
 tomahawks about the Governor’s head ; and come 
 they did, in spite of the threats and guns, and most 
 determined are they to retain their lands, and prevent 
 the English getting hold of any ; hinc illoe lacrymce. 
 Hence all this disturbance we have come to try and 
 settle. Rawiri and his party wanted to sell the dis- 
 puted land to the English ; Katatore shot him down 
 in cool blood, unarmed. 
 
 After breakfast, we all went to have Service, and 
 about 200 people assembled in the open air; for I am 
 sorry to say they have fallen away so far from all 
 their good habits at Waikanae, that instead of having 
 a Church capable of holding 500 people, and attending 
 it daily for Seiwice and school, they have neither 
 Church Service nor school. However, they came in 
 good force to Service this morning ; and the Bishop 
 preached a short sermon on some words from the 
 Lesson for the day, in which he reminded them of 
 the happy days they spent at Waikanae of old, — 
 when they and their children met daily for worship 
 and school, — when they and their Clergyman were 
 like children under the eye of a good Father. Then 
 he spoke of the change, — the absolute neglect of all 
 external religion, and the absence of all signs of 
 inward faith ; their wars, and rumours of wars, their 
 drinking habits and covetousness. It was a touching 
 scene. The Bishop spoke more energetically and 
 earnestly than ever, and his heart is deeply attached 
 to this people, to whom he ministered personally in 
 
30 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 former days, when Archdeacon Hadfield was ill, and 
 whom he has since seen spread over lialf the several 
 islands of New Zealand — and all so fallen from their 
 first love ! I do hope that if he ordains Levi, their 
 native teacher in former days, who has since been 
 under Mr, Hadfield’s and Mr. Kissling’s eye, and 
 lately preparing for ordination under the Bishop 
 himself — this excellent man may raise again their 
 tabernacle, and be enabled to revive the dead bones 
 to something like their former state. 
 
 We had a conference after Church, and heard 
 their account of their part in this quarrel between 
 Katatore and Arama Karaka ; whose Pas are three or 
 four miles off, between Waitera and Taranaki. W. 
 King said that he did not wish to take a part in it, 
 but Arama Karaka had lately come on some disputed 
 ground nearer Waitera, and he began to be afraid lest 
 he should gradually draw nearer to Wilham King’s 
 land at Waitei’a, and sell it to the English. Proximus 
 ardet Ucalegon was his principle of action. The 
 English here accuse him of duplicity, because he 
 promised the Governor to take no part in itj but 
 things have altered since then, and he found his 
 roads tapu-ed by Arama Karaka, and his people pre- 
 vented from coming into market. If Arama Karaka 
 would retu'e from Te Ninia (this new lighting Pa), 
 he would retire. All this talk being ended, we 
 marched off with a dozen of them, to Katatore’s Pa, 
 Kaipahopaho. It was certainly an exciting scene to 
 see these men di'essed like Sir Walter Scott’s High- 
 land chiefs, in tartan kilts, with mauds gracefully 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 31 
 
 tied across the shoulder, a band of crape and oilskin, 
 with a feather in it, round the temples, and guns in 
 their hands, with a cartouche-box round the waist. 
 William King’s fine handsome face and iron grey 
 hair, and his giant form of six feet three inches, with 
 breadth in proportion, certainly gave one the idea of 
 a warrior chieftain. The dress reminds one of the 
 Highlands ; but the face and customs of the Jews 
 — and Wiremu Kingi would not make a bad portrait 
 of Saul, before the evil spirit had settled on his heart, 
 and marked him externally, such as Kembrandt con- 
 ceives of him in that wonderful picture at Knowsley 
 Hall. We reached Katatore’s Pa, and found one 
 hundred men or so within. It had been newly-fenced 
 for war, and inside an earthwork four feet high 
 thrown up, between which and the outer fence was 
 a trench and an embrasure for the men to lie in and 
 attack the besiegers. They are almost impregnable 
 to mere musketry. Within the earthworks are the 
 houses ; and all the followers were seated on the 
 gi'ound to hear what the Bishop had to say. After a 
 few minutes a man, dressed like a would-he flash 
 criminal at Newgate, came up to us. It was Kata- 
 tore j a little, cunning-looking, ill-favoured rascal as 
 I ever saw, dressed in a black paletot, moleskin 
 trousere, boots, and a little hat on the top of an 
 immense bush of hair. He then told us the story 
 of the murder. When he came to it, the Bishop 
 said, “ So, then, you killed an unarmed man in 
 cold blood for the matter of land?” “Yes.” 
 “ Then you repeated the act of Cain towards Abel, 
 
32 
 
 journal of a walk from 
 
 and in the sight of God and man you are a 
 murderer.” 
 
 The man started up in great wrath, but the Bishop 
 calmly repeated it. The man started on his feet and 
 left the ring of people, muttering and gi-owling ; but 
 his own people did not seem disposed to support 
 him on that point, nor to question the Bishop’s 
 judgment or right to express that judgment. The 
 bold plainness of speech the Bishop used towards the 
 murderer, and the abuse that the newspaper writers 
 have lavished on him for holding any intercourse ’at 
 all with the murderer, &c. &c., seem together exactly 
 to make up the duties required of a Chi’istian 
 minister in the Collect for St.John Baptist’s Day: — 
 that he should “ boldly rebuke vice, constantly speak 
 the truth, and patiently suffer for the truth’s sake.” 
 It has been the Bishop’s practice for the last thirteen 
 years, during which he has been so attacked by the 
 same person in all the settlements, to “ answer him 
 never a word.” Still the Bishop has written a 
 Pastoral Letter to his own people and flock, ex- 
 plaining the course and the view he has taken 
 of the native quarrel, and the land disputes existing 
 between the natives with one another, and with the 
 English. 
 
 After the conference was over at the Kaipakopako 
 Pa, some of the people escorted us to the stream 
 boundaiy that separates them from their enemy in 
 the Ninia Pa. The two opposing Pas ai'e about 
 half a mile from one another, and the men that 
 escorted us handed us on to the enemy with cries of 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 33 
 
 “ Pihopa-ma.” There did not seem to be individual 
 enmity between the followers of Katatore on the one 
 hand, and of Arama Karaka on the other. They met 
 on the borders of the Waitaka River, and hailed one 
 another just as the French and English picqnetsheld 
 friendly conversations and made presents of food 
 to one another across a river in Spain during the 
 Peninsular War. We were received, first, by one 
 man perfectly unarmed, then we met two more, with 
 guns, I suspect, under their blankets ; and we were 
 conducted to Ninia Pa, and welcomed by Arama 
 Karaka ; a fine, courteous old gentleman, with a 
 pleasant countenance enough — certainly a great con- 
 trast to Katatore. 
 
 The Bishop made a speech to them as to the 
 Kaipakopako people, recommending them to send 
 away their allies, who had nothing to do with the 
 quarrel, and then go, each to his cultivation for this 
 month or two, till the new Governor should arrive 
 and settle the dispute ; leaving the Pas in the hands 
 of a few men on each side while the truce lasted. 
 This advice was not accepted by either party at first, 
 and the Bishop left them to think over it. We 
 walked off at sunset to the town, and reached the 
 parsonage at seven o’clock ; where we were heartily 
 greeted by Mr. Govett, the Clergyman, and son of 
 the Vicar of Staines and Laleham, with whose person 
 and ministrations I had been so familiar all the 
 early part of ray life. His son is wonderfuUy like 
 him in appeaiTince, as I knew him thirty and twenty- 
 five years ago. 
 
34 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 Aug. 16</t, \lth, \%th . — "We lasted quietly, and 
 gave our sore feet time to recover, while we 
 thoroughly enjoyed looking over the beautiful 
 scenery -of this country. The mountain, in all its 
 glorious diadem of snow, sending down such healthy 
 bracing breezes day and night as speedily restored 
 our strength, and added to the hush appetite that we 
 had brought with us. Instead of the old proverb, 
 “ Good wine needs no hush,” the Bishop always reads 
 it, “ Good bush needs no wine ; ” and certainly its 
 effects are lasting and most exhilarating — I have 
 been quite ashamed of my appetite. I feel as if I 
 have a lee-way of a fortnight’s bush-fare to make 
 up, over and above the stimulating effects of this 
 delicious climate. We have completed our walk of 
 245 miles, as shown by the corrected pedometer. 
 
 The country here seems to be fern-land for the 
 first two or three miles back from the sea, and then 
 forest, no one knows how far inland; — about three 
 miles of it has been reclaimed by settlers. The soil 
 is very rich and productive, immediately it is cleared. 
 The fern-land is a beautiful light scoria, mixed with 
 mould and sand, admirably suited for potatoes and 
 clover paddocks. But though it looks so flat, it is 
 broken up into gullies and valleys as much or more 
 than Auckland, and the roads worse and more steep, 
 besides having no stone very near for metalling. 
 The sea-shore, however, would afford supplies of 
 large round stones, which would cost a good deal to 
 break up. But the porous nature of the soil soon 
 lets the roads dry up with a warm sun and a cold 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 35 
 
 mountaiu bi’eeze. The general appearance of the 
 country is that of a number of small farms (held 
 by substantial English yeomen and native owners) 
 somewhat overstocked with sheep and cattle, and 
 a scattered village for the chief township. 
 
 Sunday, Auy. \dth . — The Bishop took the Morn- 
 ing Service in the town at St. Mary’s Church. This 
 is by fiu- the prettiest and most ecclesiastical 
 building I have seen in the Colony, and the Bishop 
 says there is certainly nothing like it elsewhere. It 
 is an early-pointed stone Church, with a very high 
 pitched roof, the interior of which is in keeping and 
 good taste. It was built by Mr. Thatcher, through 
 the energy and zeal of the first Clergyman, the Bev. 
 William Bolland, Avho died in 1847 ; and almost 
 everj’ Church work, material or spiritual, in the 
 district, seems to have owed its origin to him. The 
 present Clergyman follows in his steps, and succeeds 
 in securing the respect and good-will of his con- 
 gregation and the community by his own genuine 
 single-mindedness and goodness, and by a rigid ad- 
 herence to all that iMr, Bolland introduced. The 
 love and regard for Mr. Bolland’s memory was 
 proved by our finding, on a visit to his grave, some 
 fresh flowers strewn over it by some iinknown hand ; 
 — no relative of his is residing here now. 
 
 The Bishop went in the afternoon to the Pa for 
 Service. I had walked over on Saturday evening to 
 Omata, a village five or six miles off toward the 
 south ; and had gone to the Clergyman's house, the 
 Rev. G. Bayley’s, to see him and offer assistance on 
 C 2 
 
36 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FEOil 
 
 Sunday. The Chapel there is in a most dilapidated 
 state ; and I am thankful to say that, at a meeting 
 of Church-people held there in the course of 
 the ensuing week, they agreed to remove the building 
 to a more eligible site, that has been given for 
 Church and School purposes, and to put it up as 
 a temporally Church, and to be used as a School- 
 room when the new Church is erected on the land 
 given by Major Lloyd. 
 
 I returned, in the afternoon, to the town, and took 
 the Evening Seiwice at St. ^Mary’s. The chanting 
 and singing seem to be the relics of what once was 
 good; but, owing to the usual disagreements of 
 musicians, they have now sunk into a scarcely- 
 audible di'awl, di’owned by an harmonium. — As at 
 the Morning Service, I understood that several Dis- 
 senters had attended to hear the Bishop. 
 
 Aug. 20th, Monday . — Being now pretty well re- 
 freshed and re-invigorated for foot-tramps, we started 
 off to the hostile Pas after breakfast; and first 
 visited Ai’ama Karaka (Adam Clarke’s), which is 
 nearest the town. We found him and his people 
 very “ pakehe" and obstinate. The “Duke of Port- 
 land” had arrived on Sunday evening with 200 
 troops of the 58th Regiment and some Sappers and 
 Miners; thi'ee guns and a Captain of Engineers; 
 another of Artillery, and* six officers of the 58th; 
 under ^lajor Nugent. The Ninia people had become 
 veiy insolent, and one chai'ged William King, the 
 Chief of Waitera, with being implicated in the 
 murder of Rawiri; for which the Bishop rebuked 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 37 
 
 him, and referred him to the ninth commandment. 
 Some of them also insulted him ^dth a cry of 
 “ Haere hi te karakia hi ou tamariki ■whahahehe 
 to to ,” — “ Go and have Service with your blood- 
 shedding children;” alluding to his having gone 
 yesterday to Kaipakopaho for Afternoon Seiwice; 
 and they asked him what was the good of his going 
 “to preach to those bad men?” The answer was 
 obvious from our Lord’s own words and deeds : but 
 the self-complacent Pharisaism of these men was 
 very disgusting; the more so that it had probably 
 been put into their minds by others who ought to 
 know better. 
 
 We went on to Kaipakopako Pa; and there we 
 found the people in a great state of excitement 
 about the soldiers having come ; and they had evi- 
 dently been told that the opposite party would now 
 attack them in conjunction with the soldiers. They 
 began by a sort of hint that the Bishop was deceiving 
 them in saying the soldiers had not come to take 
 any part in their quarrel, but only to protect the 
 English. He reassured them of his own frankness 
 and openness to them, and of his positive belief that 
 there was no idea of the soldiers being used against 
 them. They were all dressed for action; and most 
 striking, certainly, was their appearance. Most had 
 red tartan kilts, with shawls round their waists. 
 Katatore himself looked very different from what 
 he had before when he had English clothes on. 
 Now, he had a kilt of red pocket-handkerchiefs and 
 a handsome tartan plaid gi-acefully thrown over his 
 
38 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 shouldei', hanging down on one side to his feet. He 
 had no hat, but his mop of black hair stood up a 
 foot above his headj and as he spoke to the Bishop, 
 calmly or energetically as the subject suited, he 
 evidently swayed his people to and fro with the 
 talent of a real orator. 
 
 The burden of his speech was, that now the 
 soldiers had 'come, and there was a danger of their 
 being attacked, and his being captured, he had gone 
 to the different tribes that had come to help him, 
 and said to them, “ Hadn’t you better go home, now 
 that the soldiei's are cornel Leave me to my fate, 
 and don’t risk your lives for me ! ” But they one 
 and all had said, “ No; we will stand by you.” 
 
 The cunning of this affected generosity and appeal 
 to their honour was, of course, obvious; but it 
 carried his point and secured their adherence. Then 
 up got a talkative Wesleyan, of the Ngatiwana 
 tribe, (for it is a great mistake to say that Kata- 
 tore’s people are all Churchmen, and Arama Karaka’s 
 Wesleyaus,) who worked himself up into a great 
 passion about the Englishmen’s desire for their land. 
 It was a curious sight to watch the fellow’s move- 
 ments. He ran back to the further end of the 
 circle in which we were sitting, and then crept up 
 towards us, clawing the gi'ouud with his toes like 
 a tiger, as he poured forth with great rapidity his 
 whakaaro, (or thoughts.) It gave one an idea of 
 a beast of prey playing with his victim ; — but when 
 he hud finished he came up very good-humouredly 
 to the Bishop, and sat down laughing, while the 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 39 
 
 Bishop said, “ Does not this dog bite as well as 
 bark?” Just then a messenger an-ived with Colonel 
 Wynyard’s letters to William King, assuring him 
 that the Government meant no violence in sending 
 the soldiers, but only the preservation of peace 
 between Natives and English. This came in very 
 happily to confirm all the Bishop had said; and 
 they forthwith were very amicable; produced their 
 lampreys and potatoes; seemed to know about King 
 Henry of England having killed himself with eating 
 lampreys ; and we parted very good friends with all 
 but Katatore, who is angiy with the Bishop for 
 urging the allies to return home. When I wished 
 him good-bye, adding, in Maori pbrase, “ Sit down 
 on the top of the Bishop’s advice,” he “umphed,” 
 and turned away with a sign of displeasure. 
 
 However, the leaven has been at work since then ; 
 and fimt the allies on one side, and then of the 
 other, have gone off to their plantations, and left 
 the original belligerents, their old women and cats, 
 to take care of their Pas — about twenty-five in 
 number on each side. 
 
 We then walked off to a Chureh Meeting of 
 English folk, in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 the battle-field, where we found that only one man 
 of the whole community had the least fear of danger 
 from the proximity to the scene of action; and he 
 had only lately been talked over in the town to the 
 side of the panic. 
 
 The Church Meeting was satisfactory. The people 
 agi'eed to build a Chapel, and to collect money for 
 
40 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 the endowment of their Clergymen, and 5QI. were 
 subscribed in the room. There are some very well 
 disposed people in this district j and I never saw 
 Divine Service better conducted in a private house 
 than it was on one of the following Sundays in Mr. 
 Hurst’s. The whole of the family sing sacred music 
 very nicely, and evidently take a pleasure in having 
 the Service in their house, and accommodating their 
 neighbom’S in every way they can. 
 
 Aug. 2\st, Tuesday . — We walked off to Omata for 
 a Church Meeting, to be held in Mr. Bayley’s house. 
 There, as I said before, some practical resolutions 
 were earned, and have since been partly acted on. 
 We spent that night and the following morning at 
 the hospitable house of Mrs. McKellar, whose well- 
 ordered family really seems to deseiwe the name of 
 “ The Church in the house of Phoebe.” 
 
 Aug, 22d, Wednesday . — We went in the middle 
 of the day to Omata Bush, through depths of mud 
 unfathomed, and intricacies of forest well-nigh 
 impervious. 
 
 After visiting the neighbours fii’st, and holding 
 a meeting, like all the preceding ones, at a settler’s 
 house, we started off in pelting showers, to find our 
 way back to Mrs. Me Kellar’s. 
 
 We were escorted by some of the neighbours with 
 pine torches, which, however, the rain put out at 
 last ; and Dr. Sealy, one of our company, borrowed 
 a lantern at a cottage we passed, and most kindly 
 led us right through the bush to our destination. 
 
 Aug. 23cZ, Thursday . — A meeting this afternoon at 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 41 
 
 Tataraimaka, eight miles fui'ther south. The road 
 was partly veiy pretty, and the land very good for 
 sheep-farming. We reached Mr. Greenwood’s in the 
 middle of the day, and were heai*tily greeted as 
 brother Etonians. There were two meetings there ; 
 the first at noon in the open air, being a native 
 gathering. They had come to talk about joining 
 the English in subscriptions for a Clergyman; but 
 the old men had come to negative any application 
 for land to build Church or School upon; as this is 
 the sore point at present with all the old Maories, 
 who fancy that the English are shoving them off 
 the land on to the “shark’s fins,” as they call it. 
 The Bishop got a hint of this intended opposition, 
 and said nothing about their giving land, to their 
 surprise ; so they all agreed to make collections for 
 clerical endowment and current maintenance, and to 
 combine with the English. It is quite curious to 
 hear how both English and Natives insist upon 
 ministerial weekly visiting as the condition of sup- 
 port. It is very gratifying to find how this is not 
 only recognised, but required by all alike. One 
 native said, “ The old women of my Pa say that 
 they want not only Simday services, but week-day 
 visits.” A Clergyman might gain great influence 
 over his flock, that had strength and will to visit 
 them regularly from house to house. 
 
 It was a bitter cold meeting this of three hours 
 in the open air, on an exposed flat. We then ad- 
 journed in doors to the Enghsh meeting ; strange to 
 say that half of the number that met was formed of 
 
42 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK PROM 
 
 Dissenters. A Roman Catholic was the most hearty 
 assistant there, offering to saw 500 feet of timber for 
 the church, giving a sovereign besides, and having 
 been in the habit for the last year of putting up the 
 tent for service every Sunday, and fetching chairs, 
 &c. all round the neighbourhood for the people ; and 
 all because his wife was a Church of England woman. 
 !Money was collected for building the church, aud 
 ground given for the site of the church, school, and 
 parsonage. 
 
 The Clergyman and Bishop had given lOZ. each, 
 and a layman 5Z. ; so, when another wealthy layman 
 said to his lay-brother, “ I’ll follow your example,” 
 the Bishop said, “ Hadn’t you better follow the Cler- 
 gyman’s, and then you’ll have ‘benefit of Clergy?’” 
 
 Then, after the meeting had ended, our host 
 entered most warmly into endless Eton recollections ; 
 and evidently enjoyed the opportunity of a talk with 
 two men that were at Eton with him, or just about 
 his time, and so could talk about the same persons, 
 things, and places. His room was full of pictures 
 and sketches of Eton and Windsor, and the public 
 orator of Cambridge might have said of him as he 
 did of P. G., that he was certainly “ Etonce aman- 
 tissimus." 
 
 We walked back that night to Omata, having 
 made an engagement to meet Major Nugent the next 
 morning early, to go to the “ Pas.” 
 
 Avg. 2ith, Friday . — Walked back to the town. 
 Major Nugent having much business on hand in 
 pitching his soldiers’ camp, put off the visit to the 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 43 
 
 native “ Pas ” till the next day. This evening we 
 had a final meeting of Chiu’ch people in the town. 
 Here, as elsewhere, the Bishop’s admirable arrange- 
 ment of the Endowment Funds met with ready 
 acceptance; and, I trust, in the town, as in the 
 suburbs, the foundation has been laid for a per- 
 manent provision for the Clergy. 
 
 It has been quite unexpected and pleasant to find 
 how readily the Bishop’s plan for the endowment 
 has been accepted, now, in every parish of this Pro- 
 vince. It was a very difficult theorem that the 
 Bishop had to solve; and when he had solved it to 
 his own satisfaction, it was a great question whether 
 it could be made a problem and be practically ac- 
 cepted; whether the “ Q. E. D.” could become 
 a “Q. E. F.” The facts are these: the New Zea- 
 land Company made grants for Church pui’poses in 
 all its settlements, on condition that they were met 
 by equivalents from the Society for the Propagation 
 of the Gospel in Foreign Paits, which was done. 
 The money was to be invested in land or mortgages 
 in the several settlements'; but it got into the hands 
 of trustees in England who would never move in the 
 matter, and all the last twelve or fourteen years it 
 has remained in the English funds, bearing three per 
 cent, instead of producing twelve here, or being laid 
 out in valuable estates when the market was cheap. 
 
 This was the identical fund of which 
 
 told Lord Grey, our Bishop did not know the 
 purposes and nature; whereas he had calculated 
 annually the amounts due to the several settlements 
 
44 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 doMU to a fraction, minus the income-tax. Seeing 
 the trouble the Bishop has taken about all this 
 matter, it afforded us great fun to see him shown 
 up in a Parliamentary Blue Book, as entirely igno- 
 rant of the whole Trust. Well, when the Bishop 
 was in England, he got the Court of Chancery to 
 move, and got the Trust handed over to the Society 
 for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, in 
 a deed reciting all the purposes of the Grant. Xow 
 the difficulty lay in this : that the F und belongs to 
 the whole Pi'ovince, which, of course, is not yet 
 filled up or occupied ; and he could not give the 
 sum to the present parishes only, and this generation. 
 So he proposed to the existing parishes that they 
 should purchase, as it were, a permanent claim upon 
 the fund by contributing an equivalent to what they 
 received fr-om it ; e. g. if they contributed 200?., they 
 should receive 200?., and so on ; and this sum should 
 be managed by elected Tnistees from the several 
 contributing paidshes, who should invest the money 
 in mortgages or land, and pay the current rate of 
 interest to the particular contributing parish; any 
 surjffus should go to the endowment of future 
 parishes on a similar plan. Thus the 1,000?. belong- 
 ing to New Plymouth will become 2,000?., and 
 endow, in part, three Clergymen, instead of one. 
 
 This closed our series of Church meetings. 
 
 Ang. loth, Saturday . — TheBishop w’ent with Major 
 Nugent to Kaipakopaho, and Te Ninia Pas, to try 
 and induce the latter people to take the tapu off the 
 road, whereby they had debaired Wiremu King from 
 
AUCKLAND TO TABANAKI. 
 
 45 
 
 comiiig into town to trade. Arama Karaka was 
 pakeke, but the leaven is gradually working; and he 
 allowed an Englishman, who had bought wheat of W. 
 King, to bring it into the town on the native carts. 
 
 While they were there, the only hostilities, or 
 approach to fighting, occurred, that we have heard 
 of since we came here. W. King was sending a pre- 
 sent of potatoes to the soldiei-s, as Arama Karaka 
 had done, and the other natives ; and the latter sent 
 out a party of men to turn them back, and, if neces- 
 sary, to fire at them. It ended quietly. 
 
 It is quite curious to see the deeds of peace and 
 war mixing so closely as they do here ; all round 
 the Pas the men are ploughing and putting in 
 potatoes. It reminds one of Homer’s Shield of 
 Achilles, where a rim of war adjoins a rim of peace. 
 
 Sunday, Aug. 2Qth . — The Bishop held a Confirma- 
 tion at St. Mary’s. It was a very wet day ; but only 
 one of the Candidates failed, though many came 
 from neighlwuring parishes. I took the Morning 
 Service at the little district chapel of Te Henui, and 
 the evening at St. Mary's. 
 
 Monday, Aug. 27 tk . — This week was a wet one, so 
 we were glad to have got over our Church Meetings 
 the preceding week ; and this one was spent in hear- 
 ing and discussing in aU directions, the attacks that 
 have been made upon the Bishop respecting the Land 
 and Maori question here. The people here have 
 generally confounded two such distinct things as Life 
 and Land ; because Wiremu Kingi has set himself 
 against the sale of land, he is as violently opposed 
 
46 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 and attacked as Katatoi'e, who murdered Rawiri. 
 AYe had a series of tea-parties this week at the 
 houses of the neighbours, who have been very civil, 
 and show a kindly disposition ; and I cannot recol- 
 lect any event worth recording till Friday the 31st 
 of August, when AA'illiam King sent for Major Xu- 
 gent and the Bishop, in gi’eat huny, to say that he 
 had heard that Mr. Turton had sent for Eawiri’s 
 widow and the widows of the others who were killed 
 on that occasion, to get waiTants taken out against 
 Katatore, and that the resident Magistrate intended 
 applying to the Militiuy to put them into execution. 
 They rode over and reassured him, and prevented his 
 doing what would have been a most alarming step 
 for the outlying settlers ; namely, taking refuge in 
 the Bush, and building a Pa, where he would be 
 free from the attack of the soldiers, and could easily 
 maraud the neighboui-s, to which he would be driven 
 by lack of food. This was stopped, and Major 
 Nugent found on his return a letter from the resi- 
 dent Magistrate, as AAk King had heard. Major 
 Nugent said he had no instructions to do the police 
 work of the province, but only to defend the English, 
 and recommended Mr. TmTon to keep himself to his 
 own spiritual duties. So things have settled down 
 quietly, and the Ngatirianuis have returned home, 
 according to the advice of the Bishop. It was very 
 striking to see the men’s delight when he wound up 
 his speech with their old song ; 
 
 “ Ka tangi te riroriro, 
 
 Kei te ahi au tamaritu ! ” — 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 47 
 
 the Maori equivalent for Lady bird, lady bird, fly 
 away home,” &c. All the good advice and sober 
 counsel given before, seemed to tell but little ; but 
 this quotation set the whole party on the alert, and 
 it was repeated and bandied from one to another, 
 well illustrating the well-known saying, “ Give me the 
 siting of your ballads, and I don’t care who makes 
 the laws.” 
 
 Sept. IsL — Our letters and newspapers came in the 
 “ Gem ” from Auckland, giving us the accounts of 
 the bombardment of Sebastopol, and its failure. The 
 fatigue of reading up a dozen newspapers to get at 
 the pith, instead of keeping au courant of the news 
 by driblets, as in England, gave rise to the Bishop’s 
 making an apt quotation from Horace, who speaks of 
 the limoe labor, the labour of the file in polishing 
 down vemes, and compositions of all kinds. The 
 Bishop says that in a Colony this means a file of 
 newspapers. 
 
 It was a refreshment in its way, however sad and 
 humiliating are the circumstances, to have the cui’- 
 rent of talk and thought turned from the pettinesses 
 of this Colonial town to the groat interests at stake in 
 Europe. The Bi.shop having just come from England, 
 and having seen there so many well-informed per- 
 sons and private lettera, is able to give more gi-aphic 
 sketches of the siege than one gets even from the 
 “file ” and “ our Special Correspondent.” He talked 
 on very wisely about the grievous mistake the 
 English Government made in 1827, after the battle 
 
48 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TFALK FROM 
 
 of Navarino, in not getting the Christian question in 
 Jerusalem and the Turkish dominions settled then 
 by treaty, and so effecting the objects of the 200 
 years’ Cnisading, and forestalling the Russian inter- 
 ference and designs upon Turkey and Europe under 
 the pretext of defending the Christian. That “ im- 
 toward event,” as it was called, might have been 
 used to save us this awful war ; the end of which 
 does not even loom in the future ! 
 
 Those cunning fellows at the fighting Pas here 
 have got hold of this Russian war and its history; 
 and when we were urging their allies to retire, and 
 calling them Pokanoas, (men who have interfered 
 in a matter that did not concern them,) one fellow 
 quietly asked how it was that the English were mixed 
 up in the war between Tm-key and Russia ? 
 
 Though I spoke slightingly just now of the petty 
 questions of Colonial towns, I must record one of the 
 most petty of the acts of this provincial Govern- 
 ment, for the sake of the comment that was made 
 upon it. A trader here demanded the services of a 
 cai'go-boat, belonging to Government, on the same 
 ground as a man demands a place in a railway-car- 
 riage, or a coach, being public conveyances. It was 
 refused ; he brought an action against the master, 
 and gained it. Immediately the Provincial Council 
 passed an Act retrospective and prospective, that no 
 provincial officer was responsible to the Law Courts. 
 Next week the Pound-keeper became a defaulter to 
 some amount; and when the Government sued him, 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 49 
 
 this act was pleaded in his favour, and he escaped, 
 which whole transaction the Bishop called “ Penny 
 wise and Pound foolish.” 
 
 Sept. 2d, Sunday . — The Bishop went to Omata 
 and Omata Bush, I took the Military Service and 
 St. Mary’s at eleven. The Gospel for the day, being 
 the Parable of the Good Samaritan, afforded a good 
 opportunity for speaking to the former about the 
 war in Europe, in which they are soon likely to bo 
 engaged ; and reminding them of the Clmstian spirit 
 shown by our soldiers to the Eussian woimded, as 
 contrasted with theirs to oius; Of coiuse, too, I 
 took the occasion to enforce their duties towards tlio 
 natives at Taranaki, and to make them feel towards 
 them as fellow-subjects and brother Christians, which 
 I am afraid is not the kind of teaching they would 
 get in the town, as one man had said to us, “ Now 
 there is a chance of our getting British law and 
 British justice, as one of the soldiers has threatened 
 to drive his bayonet into an impudent Maori.” 
 
 I went out to the Bell Block, the neighboirrhood 
 of the fighting Pas, and had a very pleasant simple 
 service witli the good folks of that district, who I 
 liope will have then- Chapel up before I go again in 
 December. 
 
 Sept. 3cZ to 8tk. — Waiting idly for the steamer. 
 Our Church work being done, and the native quairel 
 having apparently subsided for the present, the 
 Bishop, who must always be doing something, carried 
 all his party on to the road, which was very dan- 
 
5U 
 
 JOURNAL OF A WALK FROM 
 
 gerous and fall of great holes; and having in vain 
 tried to persuade the people to mend them, we all 
 “ turned to,” and in a day and a-half had made it 
 passable : a broad hint to them in eveiy sense “ to 
 mend their ways.” The Church was fully repre- 
 sented in this way-wardenship, there being a Bishop, 
 a Priest, and a Deacon, and two Lay Maories, and four 
 Lay boys. It caused much amusement to the 
 passers-by, but I am afraid little shame. 
 
 Sept, ^th, Sunday . — The Bishop went to Henui 
 Chapel in the moiming, and St. Mary’s in the even- 
 ing. A very striking passage of his Sermon on the 
 Evening Lesson, Jer. rxii. 29 — “0 earth, earth, 
 earth, hear the word of the Lord.” Thrice earthy 
 man ! 1st. Whom God formed out of the dust of 
 the ground, who was doomed for sin to return to the 
 diist whence he was formed — Hear the word of 
 God the Father, who made aU the world. 2dly. 
 0 earth, hear the word of God the Son, who 
 hath redeemed thee and aU mankind. The first man 
 was of the earth, earthy ; the second is the Lord 
 from heaven. As we have borne the image of the 
 earthy, so shall we bear the image of the heavenly. 
 0 death, where is thy sting? 0 grave, where is 
 thy victory ? Thanks be to God, who giveth 
 us the victory thi’ough Jesus Christ our Lord ! 
 3dly. 0 created, redeemed eai-th, once more, hear 
 the word of the Lord ! Fallen and cursed, yet re- 
 deemed man, still falls back into the eai'thiness of 
 sin, wallows in the mire, cleaveth to the gi-ound, still 
 
AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI. 
 
 51 
 
 regenerated and renewed by the Spirit, grieve Him 
 not, neither quench Him, but be raised to heaven, 
 and in heart and mind thither ascend by the Holy 
 Ghost who sanctifieth all the elect people of God. 
 
 Sept. \ Wh . — The “Ziugari” steamer arrived, and we 
 were off by five o’clock p.m,, and reached Manakau 
 by six P.M. next day. Got into Champion’s Boat, 
 reached Onehunga, and walked home by eleven p.m. 
 Sept, lltli. All well. Deo Gratias. 
 
 THE END 
 
 n CLAY, PRINTER BREAD STREET IllLI- 
 

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