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The Columbia University Libraries reserve the right to refuse to accept a copying order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. Author: Lok, Sir William Title: An account of materials furnished for the use of. Place: London Date: [1 862-63] kv^s**/ -•-•«— •*• •••^W"*** 9^-s^^^-i MASTER NEGATIVE « COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DIVISION BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET ORIGINAL MATERIAL AS FILMED - EXISTING BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD ■i^ t 1 ^ f ^ ■■■'yy^ BUSINESS I 430.394 L83 Lqk, Sir Willian, 1480-1550. 7»Tr,T.tr'^:?^^"yAn account of materials furnished for the use of Queen Anne Bolejni and the Princess Elizabeth, by Willinn Loke, "the king's mercer", between the 20th Jany. 1535 (27th of Henry VIII, ) and the 27th April, 1536 j communicated by J. B. Heath. I.1862?3 22 p. 21 cm. I O RESTRICTIONS ON USE: TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA FILM SIZE: [Vl\r^ REDUCTION RATIO: . /^^ IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA IB MB DATE FILMED: ^^dMl INITIALS: ^ii^ TRACKING # : MSHOIOIR. FILMED BY PRESERVATION RESOURCES, BETHLEHEM, PA. OJ ■t^ en (ji 3 3 3 3 > Q) DD ABC bcdef m 44a Q-Z! =.m (D ^0 0?^ — ^ =3 r" N)^:^ a»3 z <2 ^5 f^ CO RST stuv ^^ ^ c a^x X < oorsi N < X ISI ^e '^/ A^' A/ ^^y^ %y^ .^^ 01 e^ ^y>^^ > o 3 3 . A^^ %^^ ^^r-^ ^ ^.. o o 3 3 O1 o f"'^i^Pi^K|g|; i° i^ 1^ If Os a) K5 b K5 io I 00 10 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm ABCDEFCHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijk mnopqrstuvwxyi 1 234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 2.5 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 ■'^o ^o ?d> fp ¥0^ ^^ V <.« .<' <"' y> K' ^CP ¥cP fp f^ m 3 o ■o m -o > C CO I TJ ^ "CO 5 m O m *A. A^^'^. '/!•. OQ />^ fo f^ •-^ hO CJl E 3 3 0) CT O > I^li g-CD s5 3x 3i ^^ IJKLMN nopqrsti 1-^ z OPQ uvwx ^S t*H ^ ^ roc rsi c/) $1 0^;^ 8 a>x ^-< OOM ^o 1 LIBRARY Retool of JBusiintsii W^t iWontgomerp Hifirarp of iSctountamp rJ^k- C.I EtTfl \ If « 1 AN ACCOUNT OF MATERIALS FURNISHED FOR THE USE OF QUEEN ANNE BOLEYN, AND THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH, BY WILLIAM LOKE, " THE king's mercer,** BETWEEN THE 20TH JANY. 1535 (27TH OF HENRY Vni.), AND THE 27TH APRIL, 1536. Communicated by J. B. Heath. r M O g- J) 430.334- L^5 « ti INTRODUCTION. R. F. W. FAIRHOLT* in the preface to his ex- cellent book entitled Co/- tume in Englandy* ftates that " a knowledge of coftume is, in fome degree infeparable from a right knowledge of hiftory/* I am fo entirely of that opinion that I ven- ture to lay before the Members of the Philobiblon Society an ancient document which treats of no lefe a matter than the coftume of a Queen and of a Princefs. A few years ago, by the retire- ♦ Cojlume in England; a Hijiory of Drefs from the earlieft period till the clofe of the i^th century, F. W. Fairholt, F.A.S. London: 1846. 4 IntroduSiion. ment from adive life of an eminent archaeologift, I became the pofleflbr of a number of MS. documents, among which I difcovered feveral illuftrative of the domeftic manners and habits of diftinguiflied perfon- ages in the fixteenth and feventeenth centuries. There is one in the feries which is fo curious, and which is in fo decayed a ftate that I think its contents ought to be preferved while the paper on which it is written ftill holds together. There is no more effedtual mode of attaining this ob- je<9: than by placing it among the mifcellaneous records of the Philo- biblon Society. The document in queftion is an account of articles of drefs, &c. for the ufe of Queen Ann Boleyn and the infant princefs Elizabeth between the XX January 1535 (27 Hen. VIII.) to the xxvii April 1536, with the addition of a few articles for the ' I IntroduSiion. 5 jefter Will. Sommers, furnifhed by William Loke, 'Hhe King's Mercer r This individual makes a confider- able figure in the annals of the City of London — he obtained the free- dom of the Mercer's Company in 1^07, was made an Alderman, and ferved for Sheriff in 1 548, but never attained to the Mayoralty. He was an efpecial favourite of Henry VIII. who occafionally honoured him by dining at his houfe, he being " the King's Mercer." He was knighted, and was afterwards entrufted with a key of his Majefty's private chamber, " to come to him when he would." Sir William Loke died in 1550, at his houfe in Bow-lane, and was buried in the Mercers' Chapel in Cheapfide. There is one circumflance, how- ever, connedled with Sir William Loke's career which fheds more luftre on his name than all the I 6 IntroduSiion. honours and favours beftowed on him by Royalty. He was an anccf- tor of the illuftrious philofopher John Locke, who was the grandfon of Michael Loke, brother of Sir William, "the King's Mercer/' This Michael laid claim to the credit of originating Sir Martin Frobifher's firft voyage for the difcovery of the north-weft paffage to China, and of fitting him out. J. B. Heath. Willin Loke mcr the Quenes M. WiU. Lok m8 A** xxvij ^lafc f T TO THE QUENE. ^ Dew to Wyllira Lok £8^ of. London the xx day of Jenyf^^ ano dofii xvCxxxv. It i Roll bokeram^ IFor a gowne of tawny velvet furryd w* blak boee* It iiij** yardes qH^ fsenet^ blak -. fFor lynyng of the fame gowne at lxix» ii*^ iiijos vid J >■ uy my Evereft fett vur It ii Rolls bok7 blak fFor taynt- ^ yng^ of a nyght gowne of orenge vi' culler taffeta -* It iij q*t fsenet blak taffeta | ^ makyng ffor lynyng of iij ptelytts^ J^ It i Roll bok blak for tayntyng Vj, of ii nyght gownes embroytheryd^*^ J It xi yardes chamlet bleu ffor a "X^^^^^ jjj: gowne for the fole" at ij' viii** J •' It d^2 yarde d q*t brugs fatten ^^ S ^^ L ffor a cappe ffor the ffole at J '"A vur ::d '-^ I i II i' 10 Materials for the Ufe of ■I flFor lynyng of iii payer of flevys for my Lady pryfes It i yarde d fsenet whyt ffor lynyng of a gowne of orenge cullar velvet fFor my lady prynfes^* at It iiij yardes q*t fsenet Ruflet lynyng of a gowne of RufTet cafFa^* at mf vr It q*t velvet blak for a ^telet ^^ fFor my lady prynfes at It q*t fatten blak for a ^telyt fFor my Lady prynfes at It q*t f nayll tafFeta f senet blak ffor lynyng of the fayde ii ^telytts It d q*t velvet RufTet for edging of a kyrtyll" of Ruffet velvet for my Lady prynfes It the xiiij° daye of Jenyf An** xv*^xxxv. It i yarde d damafke grene p M. Everefl ffett at vi' 5 II 5 It i Roll bokeram blak ffor a . gowne Ruffett Caffa at . It q*t fsenet^^ crymfyn It q*t |senet^9 pu'pull It q*t fsenet whytte It d qH velvet yelow for edging of a kyrtyll of yelow fatte^*^ for my Lady pryfes It the xvij daye of Jenyv' An° doin xvCxxxv vi' ix** J [xix' ii** |ii« iiij** |ii» i** 1 . . . x** J } |ix» ni" nij* • • • • J xnij** * * * * j4 xuij** ....J xnij° Ixx** J p M" Eve reft fett p M*^ Ever- eft ffett ^een Anne Boleyn. , It ii Rolls bok blak for taynting of a nyght gowne of ruffet caffa . It d yarde i nayll velvet blak for fchoys ^^ It d q*t velvet crymfon ffor edging of a nyght gowne of crynr- fyn velvet It q^t f nayll f senet tawny It q*t velvet whyt for edging of a kyrtyll of whyt fattyn It iii yards luk velvet*- Ruffet for edging of a nyght gowne of Ruf- fett fatyn furryd*^ w' lyfards at xvi' It vi yardes d fatten whyt ffor a kyrtyll at vi^ viij** It ii yards d Caffa damafke whyt ffor a kyrtyll ffor my Lady pryfes at vi' viij** It i yard damafke tawny ffor pf omyng** of a gowne of tawny damafke ^ «' ? '• = It iij yards luk velvet tawny ffor a gowne of tawny damafke at xvi* It the xxviij daye of fef'ell*^ An° 1535 It d q*t velvet whyt ffor edging of a kyrtyll of whyt damafke for my Lady pryfes It iij yards q*t fsenet blak ffor a gowne of blak velvet at iiij' vi** 12 >vi' viij** Iviij' vi** Ux** XVUJ** I ... .... jllj' lUj' 1 J xlviij" \ xliij' iiij** XVl' VUJ** |Viij' Ixlviij* [xx** \ xix' ij* 12 Materials for the Ufe of If p M*^ Ever- . eftfet h >l It i Roll bokeram blak for y* ) -..s ..j-od fame gown } ^ •' 10 i8 4 It qt d velvet tawny fFor edging -^ of a Kyrtyll of tawny fatten & a W' payer flevys^^ J It q*t f nayll duble gene velvet^ "j blak for fhoys p Arnollde yo^ fho- i iiij' ix** maker fFett ^ It qH & nayll duble gene velvet^ | ••••s • a blak fFor (hoys p Arnold fFett > "*J *^ It xxxii yards iij qH bok grene 7 ^^., ^^ for lynyng of prefTes at vi^ 3 It the xxiij daye of Fe^ell An* xv'^xxxv It q*t d velvet RufFet for edging i ^ of a kyrtyll of RufFett fattyn \ ^ It i Roll bok blak for a gown of ) ..., ....^ tawny damafk j J J It iiij° yards qH fsenet tawny -^ fFor lynyng of the fame gowne at i xix' ij*^ iiij^ yi^ j It vii yards damafke RufFet for ^ covering of a bedde for my Lady J li" iiij** prynfes at vii** iiij** J It qH fatten blak fFor MufFelars =8 ii» It q*t tafi'eta ssenet for lynyng of | j *- the fame MufFelars ^ ^^ } It i yarde d duble gene velvet -n blak fFor fhoys p ArnoUd yo*" fho- Ixxij' vi** maker fFett J ^een Anne Boleyn. ^3 p M"^ Ever- eft fett xix' ii** For ii Muf- felars p M"^ Evereft fett .'::d p M"^ Ever- efl fett '^ It i Roll bok fFor lynyng of a ^ gowne of tawny fatten furryd w* t iij' iiij lyfards ^ It iiij yardes qH fsenet blak fFor "j a gowne of blak velvett lyned w* | fatten -' It i Roll bok fFor lynyng the | ...g .... fame gown ) •' •' It q*t ssenet purpuU fFor lynyng -| of a fleve of purpull fatten ymbro- [xiiij** theryd fFor my Lady prynfes ^ It q*t f nayll velvet blak fFor a "] payer of flypps^^ ^ Arnollde yo*" iiij' viij fhomaker frett -* ^ It iij naylls velvet blak* iij" It iij naylls fatten blak xviij** It iij naylls taffeta for lynyng of) j^yijjd the fame ) 8 13. 7 It d q*t velvet grene fFor edging -. of a kyrtyll of grene fatte for my [xx** Lady prynfes J It d yarde velvett blak for Muf- | ^jj-. felars for my Lady prynfes 3 ^ It d yarde f nayll velvet blak fFor ^ upp bodys^^ of a gowne of blak iviij* velvett J It d yarde f nayll damafke tawny -| for upp bodys of a gowne of tawny [iiij* vi* • damafke -* It ii yards q*t bok blak for lynyng ^ the upp flevys of a nyght gowne a of blak damafk p M"^ Mallte fFett | "^^ at vii^ J f I \ I i\ w i I I! I h 14 Materials for the Ufe of It d yarde f nayll duble gene ^ Ivett for upp boding^ of a kyrtyU j viij' vi^ hlak velvet . ' xv^ velv of blak velvet It i yarde duble gene velvet \ tawny for upp boding & the [ pM'Ever- piakard^^ of a gowne of tawny ( eftffett ^{;,i^et J It the XXV daye of March An*» xv*^xxxvi It d yarde duble gene velvet blak -^ for edging of a gowne of blak Uii» vi** . damafke lyned w* the fame at J It i p doble f senet blak g*** xxxvi*^ -\ It i p doble f senet yelow g*" xlii I j^^^jii ^s It i p doble fsnet grene g*" xxvi*^ f Sm* cv yardes at v' ^ It xiiij yards fatten grene ^^ | y'' ii' viii'' vii» iiij** It X Rolls bok blak at vi^ ^...It th© fyrft daye of Ap'ell An** xv*^xxxvi It ii yardes fatten blak for the "1 upp pa'^ts of a blak velvet KyrtyU rxii ymbrotherid It xij yardes d damafke redde for a fpaWar^- p EdwaMe fleude y^^^w ^, ^d yoma^^ of y* wa'drope of the beds fFett at V* viii*^ 40 o 2 It viij yards bokeram blewe fFor -j lynyng of the fame fparvar^'^ p Ed- , iiij ward Flewd fFec ^ xxxuj^nij*' xuj' nij' :os ^een Anne Boleyn. 15 It q*t nayll doble gene velvet -j blak for fhoys p ArnoUde the fho- Miij' ix'* makar fFett -* ItqHd |senet redde fFor mendyng 1 ..g of a bedde p Edward Flowde &cdi / r -rj 1 1.1 r in, y \ J«J. p M"^ Ever- ett fFett It d yarde cloth a fylf* brnchyd^'* ->| of a gowne of Vxvi" vnj" iij" xv' p M' Ever- ^ eft fFett p M"^ Ever- eft fett ffor upp bodys ^- -c^- — -- , branchyd^ cloth fyl^ J It iij yards ryght crymfyn velvet -j for the flevys^^ of a gowne of whit | iij*' - fatten ^ It Ix yardes damafke crymfyn f -j yelowe for curtyns p Edward Flode xxij" x» fet at vii» vi^ ^ It ii yards iii q*t brugs fatten | blak for a cloke^ cafTe at ii» y Vid It ii yards d bok blak fFor lynyng i^c ime cloke cafFe at vi** J * * * * /I j" xuij" of the fai It q*tf senet yelowe for p^frng^^^ y of a gown -' Itm iij qH f nayll doble gene^ velvet blak for fhoys f flypps p >xii« iij** Arnold fFea J It i yarde f senet whyt for pfor-^ myng the lynyng of a gowne o^ [jiijos yjjjd purpull clothe of goUde lyned w* [ •' •' fylf ' ^ It ii yards fatten crymfyn for the -| upp bodys of a kyrtyll of crymfyn xvi» viij** fatten prynt ^ It qH fatten whyt for a plackard i ... of a gowne of whyt fatte -» J \ \ 1 6 Materials for the Ufe of i :::xviij oftyfleu^s J It q*t d velvett blak fFor edging -| of a kyrtyll f a payer of flevys of Iv' crymfyn fatten prynted J 30 12 5 It q*t fsenet blak taffeta making | j. fFor lynyng of a ptelyt of blak It iii q*t brugs fatte Ruflett 1 fFor . . . p*« fFor the fole i It i Roll bok blak for lynyng of ^ a gown of RufTet chamlet for the Uii' ^ fFoile J It ii yards duble gene velvet ■\ blak for weltyng^^ f lynyng of a I ^^, nyght gown of blak damafk p MM Malt fet at xv^ ^ It vi yards velvet ryght crymfyn 1 jju ^^j, for a kyrtyll at xxvi* ■' It i yard q*t fatten crymfyn fFor "^ the upp ptys*2 of the fame kyrtyll Uxiij* iiij at xni" nij** J It i yard d fatten whyt for upp |j^» boding of a kyrtyll of whyt damafke J It q*t d velvet crymfyn ryght ^ fFor edgyng of a kyrtyll f a payer >ix* ix'^ of flevys of crymfon velvet J :::d ii» F p M*" Malt fett >\* vnr ^een Anne Boleyn. 17 It q"t d velvet whyt fFor edging ^ of a kyrtyll of whyt fatten and a >v' payer of ilevys at J It iii q*t velvet purpull fFor edg- " ing of ii kyrtylls f ii payer of flevys of purpull damafke ic pur- pull fatten It q*t d velvet wh)rt for edging "I . of a kyrtyll of whyt damafk J It a yarde velvet fFor edging of ^ a kyrtyll of blak damafke for my J-vi" Lady Margyt dugles'*^ J It the xxvii daye of Aprell Ann® doin xvcxxxvi It i yarde d duble gene velvet blak for (hoys p Arnoldde fFet 14 3 9 It q*t d velvett crymfyn for edg- ing of a . . .*♦ f a payer of flevys ^v of crymfyn taflTeta r It vi yards d Sarfenet tawny fFor "j lynyng of a Cloke of tawny fatten Ixxviii' ii imbrotheryd J It ij yards bokeram blak for lyn- -»•. • , '-{{A tawny for edging of the fame Cloke j ^ It v yards d fsenet blak fFor lyn- -v yng of a Cloke of blak clothe at l,xxiij' } } vi** • •«. • • • '^i nij* nij** It ii yards bok blak fFor the flevys ^ of the fame cloke at vi** ) ( i8 Materials for Anne Boleyn. It i p bok grene fFor lynyng of '\ a lyttefl bede of grene fatten p Wii» vi'* Flewde fett J It q*t f iii naylls taffeta crymfyn '\ ffor a payer of (levys p M"^ Evereft ^iiij*'* viij* feet J It xiii d luk velvet tawny fFor '\ my Lady gyfForde p M' Evereft U" xiij» fFett at xvi* J 14 16 6 Sm" toft cxxiiij" xv» ii** i k NOTES. 1 188— Mercer. 2 Jenyf — January. ^ Bokeram — buckram. * Boge— budge. Minfhew fays, particu- larly, ^^lamb's fuvy' which is confirmed by a pafTage in the Cambridge flatutes, directing facings to be made, " furruris buggeis^ five agninis ;" the Latin word being evidently in- tended to explain the barbarous one. — Nares' Glojary. 5 qH — quarter. ^ |senet — farfenet. 7 Bok — buckram. 8 Tayntyng. NeitherMinfhew nor Skinner furnifh any clue to the meaning of this word, which occurs twice in the account— the ma- terial ufed, namely buckram, leads me to fuppofe that it was intended for flifFening, efpecially as a night gown did not mean a bed gown, but an evening drefs. 9 Ptelytts— -partlet ; a rufF; a band, or collar, for the neck ; fo called becaufe it was i ) I ) 20 Notes. the parting between the head drefs and body drefs. — Webster. ** Tir'd with pinnM ruffs, and fans, and partlet ftrlps." — Hall. ^° Embroytheryd — embroidered. ^* Fole — fool. This was evidently Will Sommers, jefter to Henry VIII. Armin, in his Ne^ of Ninnies, thus fpeaks of him : — ** Few men were more beloved than was this fool, Whofe merry prate kept with the King much rule. When he was fad the King with him would rhyme ; Thus Will exiled fadnels many a time." *^ d — dimidium — half a yard and half a quarter. ^ Brugs fatten — Bruges fatin. ** Lady prynfes — the Princefs afterwards Queen Elizabeth. ^^ CafFa? — I am unable to difcover the meaning of this word. . ^^ ptelet — partlet, fee Note 9. *7 Kyrtyll — kirtle — an upper garment, a fort of loofe gown. Cyrtely Saxon. •* What ftufFwilt thou have a kirtle of?" 2 Hen. IF. ii. 4. *8 |senet crymfyn — crimfon farfenet. ^9 |senet pu'"pull — purple farfenet. 20 Satte— fatin. *^ Schoys — fhoes. ^ Luk velvet — Lucca velvet. ► Notes. 21 *^ FurrydwMyfards — bordered with lizards. ^* pfomyng — decorating or trimming. ^ Fef^ell — 28th February, 1535. \, ^^ Payer flevys — pairs of fleeves. ^'^ Duble gene velvet — double Genoa vel- vet. ^ MufFelar — muffler, a part of female drefs. "Quod roftrum occultet.*'— Minshew, Emendatio, 1627. A fort of veil, or wrapper, worn by ladies in Shakefpeare's time, chiefly covering the chin and throat. " He might put on a hat, a muffler ^ and a kerchief, and fo efcape." — Merry fVives of fFindfor, iv. 2. ^9 Slyp|)s — flippers. ^ Upp bodys — upper bodice, or corfet. ^^ Plakard — placket — a woman's petticoat. " It has occafioned Ibme confufion among the Shake- fpeare commentators by being confounded with the plac- card or placcate." — Fairholt's Cojiume in England, Gkjfary^ P- 583. Webfter ftates that this word is from the French plaquer^ to clap on. ^^ Spa'^var, or fpawar — fparver, the canopy, or tefter, of a bed. " Believe if, lady, to whomfoever I fpeake it, that a happie woman is feen in a white apron as often as in an embroidered kirtle j and hath as quiet (leepe, and as contented wakings, in a bed of cloth, as under a fpar- ver of tiifue." — Nares, vol. ii. p. 820. 1 I ri < K 11 22 Notes. \ i *» Yoma of y* waMrope — yeoman of the wardrobe. ^ Cloth a fylf* branchyd— cloth branched with filver. ^ Slevys — fleeves. Walpole, in his Jnec- dotes of rainting^ vol. iii. p. 208, gives the following defcription : — " Anne Boleyne wore very full purfled, or flaftied fleeves, faftened clofely to the wrists." ^ Cloke cafle— cloak cape. ^^ P*fing— piecing. ^ Ca'"n''con — carnation. 39 TyflTeu— tiflfue. *o Here the MS. has perifhed .... p for the fool. *i Weltyng. Welting means that the gowns were edged with velvet like thofe pur- fled or edged with furs, and which were com- monly worn at this time. *2 Upp ptys — upper parts. *3 Lady Margyt dugles— Lady Margaret Douglas. ** Here the MS. has periftied. I ;v II' ' f COLUMBIA UNIVERS 0041409248 TY L BRARIES t4Skl 0/0/S NEH MAR 2 81994 END OF TITLE