Columbia Bnibergitp 
 
 intijeCitpofi^cto^orfe 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
TOUR 
 
 THROUGH PARTS OF 
 
 THE NETHERLANDS, HOLLAND, 
 
 GERMANY, 
 
 SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, AND FRANCE, 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1821-2. 
 
 INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 THE RHINE VOYAGE IN THE MIDDLE OF AUTUMN, 
 
 AND THE STUPENDOUS SCENERY OF THE ALPS IN THE 
 DEPTH OF WINTER. 
 
 By CHARLES TENNANT, Esq. 
 
 ALSO CONTAINING, IN AN APPENDIX, 
 
 FACSIMILE COPIES OF EIGHT LETTERS 
 
 IN THE HAND-wniTING OF 
 
 NAPOLEON BONAPARTE TO HIS WIFE JOSEPHINE. 
 
 Whoever prints a book runs a very great risk, it being of all impossibilities 
 the most impossible to write such an one as shall satisfy and please all kinds of 
 readers. "d part of Don Qiixoti:, c. o. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR 
 
 LONGMAN, HURST, UEES, OKME, BROWN, AND GREEN, 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
 1824. 
 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In travelling through foreign countries, various 
 peculiarities in the character, manners, and cus- 
 toms of the people will strike the observation of 
 travellers in different ways, and many of these 
 peculiarities are passed over by well informed 
 and observant travellers, to be caught up by 
 others on a hasty and superficial view. 
 
 It is the same with respect to the general ap- 
 pearance of a country. One traveller may call 
 down the attention of those who follow in his 
 route, to situations and objects of interest, which 
 others, from accident or particular circumstances, 
 have overlooked. 
 
 To such feelings it is that the public are 
 mainly indebted for the numerous publications 
 of this kind which have of late years poured 
 forth from our press. 
 
 A 3 
 
 183969 
 
VI INTUODUCTION. 
 
 Most travellers, now-a-days, fancy that tliey 
 have somethinu^ new and interesting to commn- 
 nicate ; and although in this respect they may 
 have been mistaken, yet, on the whole, I am 
 inclined to think that the public have been 
 gainers. 
 
 Many things, undoubtedly, are told, that are 
 not worth the telling, and many tilings are told 
 that have oftentimes been told before ; but even 
 all this is not wholly unproductive of good. 
 
 For my own part, I believe that if the supe- 
 riority of the English nation, as a people, in 
 respect of general information over other nations, 
 be attributable more to one circumstance tlian 
 to another, it is to that restless spirit of cncjiiiry, 
 the predominant trait in the English character, 
 and which marks the Englishman in every por- 
 tion of the globe. 
 
 Let the traveller enquire amongst the inhabi- 
 tants of the secluded Alpine vallies, or of any 
 other sequestered places of particular interest 
 out of the common route, what is the })roportion 
 of the visitors from other nations compared with 
 the visitors from England ? Or let him cast his 
 eye through the travellers' book, with which 
 almost every little inn abroad is provided, and 
 
INTRODUCTION. Vll 
 
 in which every traveller is requested and ex- 
 pected to enrol his name and country. I do not 
 pretend to say that the results from this mode of 
 enquiry can be relied upon as very accurate ; 
 but my curiosity induced me to make the en- 
 quiry, and this was the mode which I adopted 
 for want of a better. As it was a calculation 
 which afforded me amusement, I took some 
 pains in making it, and I do not know that I 
 ever missed a satisfactory opportunity of trying 
 and proving it. I confine the calculation to 
 Switzerland, because that is a country which few 
 strangers visit but in quest of information and 
 amusement ; and I give the following as the 
 average results in favour of our countrymen. 
 
 The account may be thus stated : — 
 With Dutchmen as 1 to 100. 
 With Frenchmen as 30 to 100. 
 With Italians as 35 to 100. 
 With Germans as OO to 100. 
 
 I do not carry this enquiry further, as other 
 nations furnish hardly any criterion for such a 
 calculation, although Denmark, in proportion 
 to its population, might perhaps shew an aver- 
 age coming nearer to England than that of any 
 other nation. 
 
 A 4 
 
VIU INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Here, then, is a large balance in favor of our 
 countrymen, and I have no doubt that if a simi- 
 lar account could be taken of the number of 
 Englishmen visiting foreign countries, in pro- 
 portion to the number of foreigners visiting 
 England, the results would be at least as favor- 
 able as these here produced. 
 
 Curiosity may be considered, perhaps, as the 
 principal moving power in all this locomotion ; 
 and it should be recollected that most of those 
 from England, when they quit their homes to 
 roam abroad, are quitting comforts which foreign- 
 ers can hardly estimate. Foreigners can find 
 such comforts as they are accustomed to, almost 
 w^heresoever they may go, but Englishmen never 
 hope to find English comforts but in England. 
 
 In order that the reader may form some gene- 
 ral notion of what he may here expect, I shall 
 now say a few words in explanation of my opinion 
 upon the duties of a travel-writer. 
 
 It seems then to me, that the most important 
 of these duties may be included in one observ- 
 ation ; viz. that of relating accurately such facts 
 and circumstances as fall within his own obsei'v- 
 ation, and are worthy of being recorded. 
 
INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 With respect to any remaj'ks thereon in which 
 the traveller may indulge, these, generally speak- 
 ing, if at all likely to be valuable, are much 
 more likely to be so when given from first im- 
 pressions, before the mind has become habitu- 
 ated to the change which is presented, and be- 
 fore the novelty is worn away. There is a bet- 
 ter chance that the conclusion then arrived at 
 will be the opinion of the person observing, and 
 not an opinion borrowed from some former 
 observer ; when the great desideratum is more 
 likely to be attained of presenting objects to the 
 reader's mind, such as they really appeared to 
 the writer. 
 
 This being my feeling upon the subject, and 
 wishing to have it in my power at future times 
 to recal the recollection of first impressions, as 
 well as to have the means of gratifying those of 
 ray friends who, with less opportunity or inclin- 
 ation for roaming than myself, might find plea- 
 sure in following me in imagination through my 
 route, I proposed to myself at starting, to note 
 down in the shape of a Journal not only my 
 course and the general appearance of the coun- 
 try, but also whatever objects and incidents 
 upon the road might interest or amuse me. With 
 my note-book and pencil ready to my hand, I 
 marked down the object or incident as it was 
 
X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 presented, or as it occurred, and these short 
 notes it was generally the amusement of the soli- 
 tary evening to review and methodize. The 
 past and the present tenses may often be found 
 jumbled together, for it sometimes happened that 
 the note was made upon the occasion as it is here 
 written, and sometimes, owing to fatigue or 
 want of opportunity, was left to be reduced into 
 form at a more convenient time, but which was 
 seldom beyond a day or two. It has since been 
 the amusement of the leisure hour, snatched now 
 and then amidst other and more important avo- 
 cations, to review these notes, and to arrange 
 them in the more connected shape in which they 
 here appear ; and I now present them to the 
 reader, not professing to offer a complete itine- 
 rary for the convenience of those travellers who 
 may follow in my route (although they may per- 
 haps find here some notices convenient on the 
 road,) but a correct account, as far as I know, 
 of what I saw and considered worthy of remark, 
 introducing occasionally what I heard from those 
 about me, and intruding sometimes what I 
 thought myself. 
 
 There is, we all know, a love of the marvel- 
 lous, or a sort of longing for something out of 
 the common way, so inherent in human nature, 
 that almost every one who only sets his foot out 
 
INTRODUCTION. xl 
 
 of his own country, meets with, or fancies that 
 he meets witli, many adventures ; and, like tlie 
 renowned knight of I^a Manclia, is apt to con- 
 stiue trifling occurrences into serious encounters. 
 
 It will perhaps be considered that I have not 
 entirely escaped the little failing at which I am 
 now pointing ; but whether this be to be added 
 to my list of human weaknesses or not, the 
 reader will have the goodness to determine for 
 himself. 
 
 With respect to the incidents and anecdotes 
 which I have here related, I guess it will be said 
 by many, — these might as well have been omit- 
 ted. The truth of this remark I will not dis- 
 pute, but merely observe, that I have here re- 
 lated them either because they amused me at the 
 time, and therefore may amuse others, or be- 
 cause I considered them descriptive of some trait 
 of national character. 
 
 But the reader throughout will be pleased to 
 bear in recollection, that these pages are not 
 presented under any deliberately assuming title, 
 but as containing a Journal of a hasty tour 
 through several countries, or a Scrap Book filled 
 with odds and ends, originally intended only for 
 the amusement of the collector himself^ and 
 
Xll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 such of his own personal friends as might chance 
 to find amusement therein. 
 
 But although I liave, like many before me, 
 yielded to the persuasion of friends that I would 
 submit these notes to the public eye, yet, in 
 giving this explanation, I would by no means 
 wish the usual inference to be ch'awn from 
 thence, that I desire to avail myself of this as an 
 excuse for the numerous imperfections which 
 will probably be betrayed. I of!er it rather as 
 an apology to the Public for a sort of liberty 
 which I fear I may be considered to have taken ; 
 and as 1 cannot but feel sensible that the sight 
 of so many pages is calculated to excite some 
 poi'tion of apprehension in the minds of those 
 upon whom I can have no claim to personal in- 
 terest, I have here reserved to myself the right 
 of offering to them the following assurances, not 
 of what they will find, for that might be difficult 
 to say, but of what they will not find. 
 
 In the first place, then, they will not find any 
 long digression into the history of the different 
 nations through which the traveller passed, nor 
 into the history of cities, towns, or villages. 
 These are subjects which should seem to be 
 better suited to the sedate historian than to the 
 liasty tourist. 
 
INTRODUCTION. XlU 
 
 In the next place, tliey will not find any ela- 
 borate detail upon the statistics of France, Hol- 
 land, Germany, or Switzerland, nor any treatises 
 upon the state of literature in those countries. 
 Crude and imperfect indeed must be the review 
 of such subjects by the })assing stranger, if given 
 as results of personal observation, and very un- 
 satisfactory if resting upon loose and general 
 conversations amongst the inhabitants. 
 
 Any curious and well-authenticated facts upon 
 these or such like subjects, are well noticed by 
 the traveller : but the elaborate details upon the 
 state of literature, the statistics, and, to use a 
 fashionable term, the political economy of the 
 various nations of the continent, whicli we 
 sometimes see presentedby modern Tourists to the 
 public with more of ostentation than research, 
 are, in my opinion, generally speaking, not only 
 out of place, but, being too often composed from 
 the most flimsy of materials, or transcribed from 
 other works seldom quoted as books of reference, 
 the whole, in either case, is vague and unsatis- 
 factory, proving little more, to put it in the mild- 
 est way, than that the vanity of the waiter has 
 misled the judgment. 
 
 And, lastly, the reader may have the satis- 
 factory assurance, that he will not here be wea- 
 
XIV INTIIODUCTION. 
 
 lied with long and tedious extracts from cata- 
 logues of }3icture galleries, nor with minute 
 criticisms or remarks upon the Contour, Passion, 
 Chiaro-Scuro, Harmony, and Repose of pictures 
 which he never saw, and never may see. 
 
 However, it is but justice in the writer to 
 declare, that he has a besetting sin of which the 
 reader should be warned, and this is what a 
 celebrated writer upon men and manners has 
 pointed out with the milder term of a vulgar 
 error, — the aptitude for being thrown into a state 
 of admiration. 
 
 This, however, will be found, generally, to 
 have been caused by the sight of nature's works, 
 and if he should be thought sometimes rather too 
 enthusiastic in his admiration, he hopes that 
 some allowance may be made for the warmed 
 fancy of a solitary being wandering amidst 
 scenes of the most romantic beauty and sublime 
 magnificence, at periods of the year when tiie 
 one is heightened into perfect loveliness by the 
 glowing tint of autumn, and the other magni- 
 fied into terrific grandeur by the frozen garb of 
 winter, and the whole viewed at that period of 
 life when fancy is supposed to reign with 
 strongest sway. 
 
INTRODUCTION. XV 
 
 To those who take but little interest in de- 
 scriptions of scenery, because never seen, or never 
 likely to be seen by them, I can only say that 1 
 do not so far flatter myself as to suppose that 
 they will find sufficient amusement in the fol- 
 lowing pages to repay them for the time and 
 trouble of perusal. But to those whose fancy 
 can take wing and fly away from life's more 
 sober occupations, thus far will I venture to 
 say, — that I rely much upon their indulgence 
 for errors and imperfections, hoping and believ- 
 ing as I do, that I have narrated and described 
 — faithfully. 
 
 C. T. 
 
 Russell Square, 
 1824. 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 1821. Thursday, August 30. Left London 
 this morning, by the steam packet, for Margate, 
 accompanied by one, who, to postpone the hour 
 of separation, had determined to proceed with 
 me to the coast. 
 
 The beauties of the Margate voyage, and the 
 superior advantages of the steam packets, which 
 now ply between BilUngsgate stairs and Margate 
 pier with nearly the same punctuality as the 
 daily coaches between Brighton and the metro- 
 polis, are so well known and estimated, that on 
 these topics nothing need be said in the way of 
 admiration or encomium. 
 
 After the usual passage of about eight hours, 
 we were safely landed amidst the gazing multi- 
 tude upon the pier ; but having no greetings to 
 receive from expecting friends, we desii'ed the 
 man who had seized upon our luggage, to make 
 the best of his way through the crowd to the 
 hotel on the parade, and keeping close to his 
 
 VOL. I. B 
 
2 DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 heels, we escaped out of this scene of bustle and 
 confusion, and were soon quietly seated in our 
 own room, well satisfied to see around us a cor- 
 rect sum total of portmanteaus, travelling-bags, 
 and parcels. 
 
 Amidst the motley crowd for which Margate 
 is so justly celebrated, if there be not to be found 
 here much gentility and flishion, the air, manner, 
 and general appearance of the busy scene can- 
 not fail to afford some diversion even to the more 
 refined visitor to this place of popular resort. 
 
 Friday^ Saturday^ and Sunday, were spent in 
 an excursion round this part of the coast to 
 Kingsgate, Broadstairs, and Ramsgate. But now 
 our httle trip of pleasure was at an end, and the 
 concluding part of Sunday evening was occupied 
 in making those disagreeable preparations which 
 mark the near approach of the period of depar- 
 ture for a long journey. 
 
 It is a painful reflection that, a few hours 
 more, and I am separated for a distant and un- 
 certain time from country, family, and friends. 
 The uncertainty of life, the apprehension of 
 calamities befalling those on whose happiness 
 our own depends, and the fear that these may 
 come when we are not near to assuage the griefi 
 or mitigate the pain, are the dark forebodings 
 which fill the mind of the departing traveller 
 with temporary sadness, and dissipate at once all 
 
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 3 
 
 the pleasing visions of the imagination in the 
 anticipated novelties of foreign land. 
 
 Monday y Sept. 3. Having now parted with 
 my brother at Ramsgate, I shortly afterwards 
 observed a packet just getting under weigh off 
 the pier head, bound for Calais. In another 
 minute my luggage was on the shoulders of two 
 sturdy porters, who setting off at a running trot 
 towards the pier, I followed. A boat with two 
 ready rowers was presently at hand, and although 
 the packet was already under sail, we soon made 
 up to her. Coming alongside under these cir- 
 cumstances, the tardy and eager passenger is 
 placed rather at the captain's mercy in respect 
 of charge. " You know the fare, Sir," said he, 
 as advancing to assist me up the side of his ves- 
 sel. " No matter," said I, " ii' fair mean reason- 
 able J** *< Reasonable enough, Sir," was the reply j 
 ** only a guinea." This would not have struck 
 me as unreasonable at any other time, or in an- 
 other situation j but a suspicion now crossed me 
 that this man was taking some unfair advantage 
 of me, and to put the fairness of his dealing to 
 a test, I loosed my hold, and shoving off the 
 boat, told the two lads of the oar to take me 
 back to where they found me. 
 
 To judge from the change in the captain's 
 face, it might have been supposed that some- 
 thing had gone wrong on board, or tliat tlie 
 
4 " ARRIVAL AT CALAIS. 
 
 wind had suddenly veered round to an unfavour- 
 able quarter ; for scarcely had I seated myself 
 in the boat to return ashore, when he again cried 
 out, but in an altered and sulky tone of voice, 
 " Come alongside, Sir, and jump up ; I see 
 you are a gentleman." But not wishing to sub- 
 ject him to any disappointment on the score of 
 my gentility, "What's your fare, man?" said 
 I. " Half-a-guinea, Sir," was the short and 
 grumbling reply ; upon which I climbed up, 
 and took my seat on the deck amongst the other 
 passengers. 
 
 It was now just ten o'clock ; and about five in 
 the afternoon, after a pleasant passage, we entered 
 the harbour of Calais. But the steam-boat, 
 which had left Dover at two o'clock, liad run in 
 about ten minutes before us. 
 
 After passing through the vexatious ordeal of 
 the Custom-House, I took up my quarters at 
 the very comfortable hotel of Mons. Dessin, 
 changed my English money into French ciu'- 
 rency, took my place in the diligence for Dun- 
 kirk for to-morrow morning at three o'clock, and 
 then sitting down at a very well-spread dinner- 
 table, with a bottle of good wine before me, at 
 a moderate price, I found it was possible to make 
 oneself very comfortable even in France. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 4. Having missed the dili- 
 gence by the neglect of the servant, who waked 
 
DUNKIRK. 5 
 
 me half an hour after the time, Mons. Dessin 
 forwarded me on to Dunkirk with post-horses. 
 I arrived between nine and ten o'clock, a.m., 
 and demanded how much to pay ; when the 
 driver informed me that he had received direc- 
 tions firom his master not to take any thing for 
 the hire of the horses. I made my acknowledg- 
 ment to the man in additional drink-money. 
 
 Mons. Dessin and the captain of the packet 
 crossed my mind at the same moment j but now, 
 like most other Englishmen, " hating all preju- 
 dice and Frenchmen," this association was dis- 
 agreeable, so I called for breakfast. After a 
 hasty meal, I set out to take a slight survey of 
 this town, the once fruitful subject of discord 
 between the two great rival nations. 
 
 It is a substantial looking town, holding an 
 important station on the coast, and still present- 
 ing a w^arlike front towards the sea ; but the for- 
 tifications on the land side exhibit great appear- 
 ance of neglect. 
 
 The quay is a large and convenient space, 
 enclosed within high brick walls. The town is 
 almost entirely built with a dingy brick, and the 
 houses being large and lofty, Dunkirk on the 
 whole presents a gloomy and monotonous 
 appearance. The principal street, however, 
 leading down to the quay, is long, broad, and 
 handsome, and with the venerable old chuixh 
 
 B S 
 
6 DUNKIRK TO FURNES. 
 
 and some ancient buildings, produces a good 
 effect, and shows a character of importance. 
 
 Having satisfied my curiosity by a view of this 
 town," I hired a caleche and post-horses to 
 Furnes. 
 
 The road to this place is remarkable, being for 
 about twelve English miles over a very hard and 
 perfectly level sand, along the sea-shore, which 
 is so flat and unobstructed, that the ^dew is 
 bounded only by the horizon. The vastness of this 
 dreary solitude, in which no vestige of a human 
 being or sign of animal life w^as visible, (save when 
 every now and then a flock of alarmed sea-birds 
 took wing at our approach,) presented an appear- 
 ance so very different from what I had ever seen 
 before, that as I looked around I could not help 
 exclaiming, " This is indeed another country.'* 
 
 But after first surprize was over, the long- 
 continued sameness of the scene sunk the mind 
 into repose, and brought reflections to remind 
 me of the " lengthening chain" which I was 
 now dragging over this vast pathless, sandy 
 tract. 
 
 Afler jHirsuing for upwards of twehe miles 
 this level course along the margin of tlie sea, Ave 
 turned off the shore to w^here a range of low sand- 
 hills marks its separation from the land, (if a 
 continuation of sand deserves to be so called,) 
 and here stands the miserable looking \illage of 
 
FURNES. 7 
 
 Furnes, now restored to its legitimate sovereign, 
 the King of Holland and the Netherlands, whose 
 territory here commences. 
 
 A ragged soldier, harmonizing in his every 
 look with the misery around him, now came for- 
 ward, and in a gruff tone of voice informed me 
 that this was the barriere du Pays Bas. With- 
 out knowing the immediate object of this com- 
 munication, I thanked my informant for his 
 mformation ; but, as casting my eyes around, I 
 could not bring myself to say one word of com^ 
 pliment upon the appearance of the Pays Bas, I 
 therefore took what I considered to be the more 
 polite course, of leaning back in my carriage, 
 and remaining silent. The soldier also preserved 
 a decent silence, but this he presently interrupted 
 by again informing me, " Monsieur, c'est ici la 
 barriere du Pays Bas." I bowed, and stared at 
 this second intimation of a fact which seemed to 
 me matter of very little importance ; but I still 
 continued silent. 
 
 This man of war had in the mean time ascended 
 to where my luggage was secured, and now 
 beginning to untie the cords, his next speech, 
 uttered in a more gruff and authoritative tone, 
 enlightened me. — " Monsieur, les clefs de votre 
 baggage." — " Oh, monsieur le militaire," said 
 I, now understanding well what key was want- 
 ing, " il seroit dommage de vous donner la 
 
 B 4 
 
FURNES TO GISTHELLE. 
 
 peine ;" and dropping into his hand a two franc 
 piece, this worthy servant of the crown descended, 
 gave the signal for putting-to the fresh horses, 
 and permitted me to drive off with whatever 
 contraband goods my baggage might contain. 
 
 Immediately after passing this barriere the 
 whole country presents the same flat unvaried 
 surface, extending as far as the eye can carry, 
 and apparently on a level with the sea, from 
 which it is separated only by a range of low 
 sand-hills ; in short, it is most expressively 
 designated by the appellation of le Pays Bas. 
 
 The next post from Furnes is Gisthelle. The 
 country here considerably improves, and although 
 not possessing much natural advantage in respect 
 of quality of soil, yet exhibits an appearance of 
 fertility which speaks very favourably of tlie 
 industry of the inhabitants. 
 
 Shortly after changing horses at tlie last post, 
 a ludicrous incident occurred. A huge, overfed 
 Flemish mare, which, from first setting out, had 
 been unruly, became soon unmanageable, and 
 after much plunging and kicking, to the immi- 
 nent danger of her companion in harness, the 
 vehicle, the driver, and myself, she at last en- 
 tangled herself very awkwardly with one leg 
 over the splinter-bar. 
 
 The driver, with mucli dexterity, instantly 
 released himself from his perilous situation, and 
 
GISTHELLE TO BRUGES. 9 
 
 I, perhaps less active, but certainly in a part 
 of the vehicle from which it was more difficult 
 to extricate myself, made a sudden spring, 
 which, indeed, effectually cleared all obstacles, 
 but which brought me to the ground with a most 
 unpleasant violence. I was not so much stunned 
 as to be unconscious of the disagreeable effects of 
 this shock ; but it was not until I began to lend 
 assistance in extricating the animal and rescuing 
 the vehicle, that I discovered I had sprained my 
 right hand ; and now, thinking more of myself 
 than the kicking jade and the lumber attached 
 to her, I began to feel about the wrist for a frac- 
 ture ; but the effect of a strong bandage soon sa- 
 tisfied me that the mischief went no further than 
 a sprain. In the mean time, however, I coidd 
 not help being much amused by the dexterity of 
 the driver. In the midst of the struggles of 
 this powerful animal, he seized her by the nos- 
 trils, and with such determined force as soon 
 brought her head to the ground, and rendered 
 her perfectly quiet. In this situation she was 
 held until assistance was procured, when the 
 harness was withdrawn, and all was replaced in 
 proper order. We now resumed our places in 
 the carriage, but no sooner were we seated than 
 the last act was preparing o\er again with all 
 its former violence. In an instant down went 
 the reins again, and almost at the same moment 
 
10 BRUGES. 
 
 all was quiet, for the mare's nose was again 
 brought to the torture, and she underwent on 
 her fat sides some as hearty coups de j>ied as were 
 ever inflicted upon beast. 
 
 This punishment, however, seemed to make 
 but little impression on her spirits, for when the 
 reins were again resumed, she shewed every in- 
 clination to repeat her tricks, and would, no 
 doubt, have amused us with another exhibition, 
 had not the furious pace at which she was kept 
 prevented the opportunity. 
 
 At full gallop we completed this post, and 
 thus entered the fine old city of Bruges, and 
 here ended a long day's journey. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. 5. Having some business 
 of importance at Rotterdam, the intervening 
 space was literally run over, and little opportu- 
 nity was afforded for tlie gratification of curiosity 
 beyond a cursory view around me. I, however, 
 contrived to shape my course through what I 
 considered the most interesting route, but as 
 this led me somewhat out of the direct road, 
 my leisure time was necessarily still more con- 
 tracted. 
 
 To make the most, however, of the short time 
 I had to spare for Bruges, I rose with the first 
 dawn of morning, and sallied forth into the 
 town. Some of tlie principal streets are broad 
 and handsome, and many of the houses seem to 
 
BRUGES. 11 
 
 combine comfort witli grandeur, but the gene- 
 rality of the streets are narrow, and the height 
 of the buildings throws around a gloom which is 
 much increased by the forlorn appearance of the 
 town itself. There is great neatness and clean- 
 liness observable throughout, but this deserted 
 air, and the silence which here reigns amidst a 
 scanty population, forcibly remind the stranger 
 that the glorious days of Old Bruges are gone 
 
 by- 
 
 The town-hall is a fine specimen of Gotliic 
 architecture, well deserving of notice. The ,« 
 church of Notre Dame is another venerable 
 structure, which the stranger should not neglect 
 to visit. Here is one of those curiously carved 
 pulpits, so peculiar to many of the churches in 
 the Netherlands, and which, as specimens of in- 
 tricate and higlily-wrought carving, are probably 
 unrivalled in any other country of the w^orld. 
 
 Bruges is situated in the midst of a most fer- 
 tile and highly-cultivated country, which seems 
 to produce so abundantly all the comforts and 
 luxuries of life in eating, drinking, and cloth- 
 ing, that, when economical living, with comfort, 
 is a principal object, few places, I should think, 
 could be found to offer greater advantages for a 
 residence than this town. As to house-rent, spa- 
 cious mansions, bedecked with all the remnants of 
 their ancient splendour, and provided with exten- 
 
1-2 CANAL FROM BRUGES TO GIIFA'T. 
 
 sive gardens, are to be procured here, as I learnt 
 upon enquiry, at the rate of thirty-five and forty 
 pounds per annum, rent and taxes included. 
 
 Between ten and eleven o'clock I quitted Bru- 
 ges by the trekschuyt, or packet-boat, for Ghent 
 by tlie canal. This canal is upon a noble scale, 
 and affords to the traveller an easy and cheap 
 opportunity for seeing this fertile part of the 
 country to advantage. Although not a single 
 lock occurs between Bruges and Ghent, yet the 
 scene is so ornamented with fanciful villas, con- 
 structed and laid out in the true Flemish fa- 
 shion, and the whole line is so varied with planta- 
 tions of beech, willow, and poplar trees, tliat the 
 disagreeable monotony of a perfectly flat coun- 
 try is really not observable ; and the scene, if it 
 cannot properly be called beautiful, is at least 
 highly pleasing. 
 
 The only drawback to my pleasure was an 
 almost intolerable stench arising from the water 
 of the canal, which was now as black as ink, appa- 
 rently with putridity, and covered with dead fish. 
 The cause of this was attributed to the washing 
 of flax in the neighbourhood of Lisle, in France, 
 near the source of the river which runs into tliis 
 canal at Ghent. But whatever was the cause, the 
 pestilential effluvia, now rising more powerfully 
 under a hot sun, was to me no slight annoyance, 
 although to the other passengers this circum- 
 
GHENT. 13 
 
 stance seemed to be quite a matter of indiffer- 
 ence, for with a segar constantly in the mouth, 
 they hung over the side of the boat in a state of 
 the most perfect composure, and to all appear- 
 ances might be supposed to be inhaling odours 
 agreeable than otherwise. I was yet too little 
 accustomed to the smoke of tobacco to avail 
 myself of this advantage, but I found the ad- 
 vantage of a pinch of snuff occasionally, an 
 enjoyment which no snutf-taker need ever fear 
 the want of when in company with a Flemish 
 gentleman. 
 
 At one o'clock was spread, in the grand cabin, 
 an excellent dinner for those of the higher rank 
 of passengers who chose to partake of it, and 
 we sat down a pretty large company, exhibiting 
 almost as much variety as the dishes. The whole 
 fare, including the passage, dinner, dessert, and 
 half a bottle of wine, amounted to six francs. 
 About four we landed at Ghent. 
 
 Ghent is considerably larger than Bruges, and 
 also rivals it in the size and general beauty of 
 its streets, but, like Bruges, it presents another 
 instance of the change of times, and of the de- 
 pressed state of the commerce of this country. 
 
 With respect to convenience for trade, Ghent 
 offers many advantages, being situated on the 
 river Scheldt, at the influx of three navigable 
 
14) GHENT. 
 
 rivers, with a fine canal communicating with the 
 sea coast at Ostend. 
 
 But notwithstanding all these advantages its 
 quays are now deserted, its streets are silent and 
 neglected, and the scanty population seems only 
 half employed. 
 
 The churches being the most interesting ob- 
 jects in this town, I directed my valet de place 
 to lead me firstly to the cathedral church of St. 
 Bouvon, the interior of which is considered one 
 of the most beautiful specimens of rich work- 
 manship to be met witli on the continent. Hows 
 of pillars of the purest white Italian marble form 
 a striking contrast with the beautiful black mar- 
 ble with which the cathedral is lined, and the 
 floor of black and white marble with numerous 
 sculptured tombs and superb ornaments, produce 
 altogether an effect which, for richness and 
 splendour, could hardly be surpassed. The prin- 
 cipal altar is also superbly beautiful, and the 
 pulpit is an exquisitely fine specimen of carved 
 work in wood. 
 
 There are also some very fine specimens of 
 modern sculpture, and some valuable paintings 
 by the early Flemish masters ; but all these the 
 visitor will not fail to discover and admire with- 
 out notice or assistance. 
 
 The steeple of this cathedi'al presents the 
 
GHENT. 15 
 
 same abrupt termination and unfinished appear- 
 ance which I afterwards observed in many of the 
 churches of the Netherlands. 
 
 I next visited the church of Saint Michael, 
 which, in respect of exterior architecture, is 
 more grand and imposing than that of Saint 
 Bouvon, but my principal object was the paint- 
 ing of " The Crucifixion." Before this chef- 
 doeuvre of the great Vandyke, I stood and gazed 
 until lost in admiration. 
 
 hi the mean time I had sent my attendant 
 with the compliments of an English gentleman 
 
 to Monsieur Van , requesting permission to 
 
 inspect his valuable collection of paintings ; and 
 the permission being granted as a matter of 
 course, I now set out to visit one of the finest 
 private collections of pictures in this town. 
 
 In our way we took the Botanical Garden, 
 which, although nothing extraordinary, is yet 
 worth seeing. 
 
 As to this private collection of pictures, tliey 
 are all choice, and well worthy of a visit, but so 
 numerous, that I had only time to run my eye 
 hastily over them ; and I was also obliged to be 
 contented with a very cursory view of the pub- 
 lic collection of pictures in the Academy, con- 
 taining several fine pieces by Rubens and Van- 
 dyke. 
 
 Evening was now far in advance, and after 
 
16 GHENT TO ANTWERP. LOKEREN'. 
 
 proceeding to the Messagerie Royale to secure 
 my place in the dihgence to Antwerp for to- 
 morrow^ morning, I returned to the inn, some- 
 what vexed that I should be unable to pay a visit 
 to Brussels w^hen within the short distance of 
 thirty miles from that interesting capital. 
 
 Thursday^ Sept. 0. The road from Ghent 
 to Antwerp is through a highly-cultivated coun- 
 try, but of a variable soil, being in some places 
 light and sandy, and in others rich and loamy. 
 
 The first village of any importance, after quit- 
 ting Ghent, is Lokeren, which exhibits a very 
 pleasing specimen of that neatness, plenty, and 
 content, so generally found in the villages 
 throuo'hout the Netherlands. It is situated in 
 the midst of water meadows, w'hich are used for 
 bleaching-grounds, the principal manufacture of 
 this village being linen cloths. 
 
 The contrast of the bleached linen with the 
 rich verdure of the surrounding meadows, pro- 
 duced a very pleasing eifect ; and the numerous 
 persons occupied, some in laying out the pieces 
 of cloth, which extend to an amazing length, 
 others in fastening dow- n these pieces, and tightly 
 extending them with pegs, and others again 
 en^aijed in waterin"; these extended leno-ths from 
 various little intersecting channels, from whence 
 the water was dexterously thrown out to a great 
 distance in sprinkling showers, by means of long 
 
LOKEREN. — ST. NICHOLAS. 17 
 
 and narrow wooden scoops, like those used on 
 board a ship to wet the sails, rendered the whole 
 a busy and amusing scene. 
 
 The population of this village is very great, 
 but every one seemed occupied, and at every 
 cottage door were seated women and children 
 cleaning and spinning flax, or working lace. It 
 was an interesting sight, for all seemed as comfort- 
 able and happy as they were busy ; and, indeed, 
 whatever I Iiave yet seen of the little country 
 towns and villages of the Netherlands, bespeaks 
 the industry and contentment of the inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 The next post is Saint Nicholas, another neat, 
 pretty, and industrious village. An immense 
 quantity of flax is grown in this part of the 
 country, and the peasantry were now busily em- 
 ployed in spreading it out to dry, and in carting 
 it home. 
 
 About three leagues from the village of Saint 
 Nicholas, the appearance of the country under- 
 goes a sudden and remarkable change ; mea- 
 dows, corn fields, &c. and trees all at once 
 disappear, and the whole country presents the 
 appearance of one continued marsh, as far as the 
 eye can carry. 
 
 This marsh being of a deep rich soil, produces 
 in the dry season of the year a short good pasture, 
 and was now covered with herds of cattle ; but 
 
 VOL. I. c 
 
18 ANTWERP. ARSENAL. QUAY. 
 
 the banks and ditches shew that the whole of 
 this extensive flat is under water during the win- 
 ter season. 
 
 In the midst of this wide plain stands the noble 
 city of Antwerp, on the bank of the majestic 
 river Scheldt. 
 
 After rattling over numerous drawbridges, 
 and passing under several ponderous portcullises, 
 we reached the river side. Here we quitted the 
 coach, and a boat was in readiness to convey us 
 with our luggage to the op})osite shore. At 
 twelve o'clock I entered the city of Antwerp. 
 
 The general appearance of this city is magni- 
 ficent and venerable, and the noble Gothic edi- 
 fices and numerous stately buildings declare its 
 antiquity and former grandeur. But the effect 
 of the whole is much injured by the mixture of 
 the meanest dwellings with splendid mansions ; 
 and the want of a foot-pavement tends also to 
 detract from the handsome appearance of the 
 buildings. The public arsenal is on a truly 
 magnificent scale, and the quay and docks are 
 surely unrivalled throughout the world. 
 
 The quay cannot, I should think, be less than 
 two miles in extent j and the tide, which now 
 
ANTWERP.— DOCKS. l9 
 
 when I obsei-ved it marked eighteen feet, was 
 twelve feet below usual high water mark, and 
 eighteen feet below high water mark at spring 
 tides ; thus giving thirty-six feet of water, which 
 enables men of war to navigate the river several 
 miles above the town. 
 
 The docks consist of an inner and an outer 
 basin, each, I should think, amply spacious for 
 the reception of upwards of one hundred sail of 
 the line. The harbour is also upon a prodigious 
 scale, and is said to be capable of accommodat- 
 ing between two and three thousand ships. This 
 harbour branches off into four large canals, along, 
 side wliich are ranged extensive quays, ware- 
 houses, and magazines, with every other conve- 
 nience for trade, to an almost unlimited extent. 
 
 The dock-gates are stupendous, and the enor- 
 mous blocks of granite on which these are hung, 
 excited my particular attention and admiration. 
 In short, the vastness of the whole design, and 
 the strength and neatness of the execution, must 
 excite the admiration of every one, and the 
 whole must be ranked amongst tlie most extra- 
 ordinary works of the modern age, 
 
 Buonaparte's views with regard to this city 
 are yet fresh in the recollection of Englishmen, 
 
 c 2 
 
so ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 whose rival exertions prevented Antwerp from 
 becoming the grand emporium for the merclian- 
 dize of the world. The destruction of the com- 
 merce of Great Britain was, however, beyond 
 the powder of this arbiter of the fate of nations ; 
 and Antwerp now remains only a noble memo- 
 rial of one of the great and bold, but frustrated 
 designs of disappointed ambition. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river is seen the 
 commencement of another of Buonaparte's great 
 works. By his command a new city, intended 
 to have been dignified with his name, was there 
 preparing to rise up for the protection of Ant- 
 werp, on what is considered to be its weakest side. 
 But with the departure of the projector the work 
 stopped, and the workmen are still waiting for 
 further orders. 
 
 The cathedral was the next object of my 
 attention. This is universally admitted to be one 
 of the noblest Gothic structures on the conti- 
 iient, and the tower is perhaps the most beautiful 
 specimen of the minutely carved and ornamented 
 Gothic in existence. It was evidently the oiigi- 
 nal intention that a corresponding tower should 
 have been built by its side, and the want of this 
 is, to my eye, a deformity, as it seems to give to 
 the whole building an unsuitable irregularity of 
 
ANTWERP. — CATHEDRAL. 21 
 
 design, as also an unfinished appearance. But 
 independently of this disadvantage, if such it 
 be, the single -tower is left perhaps a more strik- 
 ing object, than if the whole of the original 
 design had been completed. 
 
 The nave is truly magnificent, and, devoid of 
 all false ornament, exhibits a specimen of simple 
 and solemn grandeur. 
 
 Most of the paintings which formerly enriched 
 this cathedral liave been rescued from the grasp 
 of the French, and the traveller again gazes with 
 admiration on the works of the early Flemish 
 painters, in the midst of the imposing scene for 
 which these specimens of the art were originally 
 designed. Here the noblest works of the im- 
 mortal Rubens, " The Elevation of the Cross," 
 *' The Descent," and the exquisite altar-piece, 
 representing *' The Ascension of our Saviour," 
 by the same prince of painters, transfix with 
 deepest interest the attention of the beholder, 
 and with his thoughts seem to transfer his very 
 existence to the time and place of the awful 
 events here represented. The stranger will also 
 dwell with delight upon several noble pictures 
 by Vandyke ; and tlie painting of the dome by 
 Schultz, in tlie centre of the cathedral, repre- 
 senting the heavenly choir chaunting the praises 
 
 c 3 
 
23 ANTWERP. — CHURCHES. 
 
 of the Holy Virgin, will, in its turn, fix the at- 
 tention, and call forth the warmest admiration. 
 In short, this holy edifice is filled with the noblest 
 works of the great masters, which require the 
 uninterrupted attention and contemplation of 
 many hours ; but Rubens, who seems to have 
 particularly studied the fame of this his native 
 city, has here enriched many other churches by 
 his noble art, which therefore well deserve the 
 attention of the traveller. 
 
 Afler devoting as much time as I could afford 
 to the cathedral, I visited the church of Saint 
 Augustin, where are to be seen several very fine 
 pictures by Rubens and Vandyke, which lately 
 hung upon the walls of the Louvre. 
 
 There are some other paintings in this church 
 which cannot fail to attract the attention of the 
 stranger, as also will the pidpit, another beauti- 
 ful specimen of carving in wood. 
 
 The church of Saint Walbourg was the next 
 object of attraction, principally on account of 
 its celebrated altar-piece, *' The Elevation of 
 the Cross." 
 
 I afterwards proceeded to the church of the 
 Dominicans, where are some highly and justly- 
 
ANTWERP. — PICTURES. 23 
 
 admired works by Rubens and Vandyke, parti- 
 cularly " The Scourging of Christ,'* *• Bearing 
 the Cross,'* and " The Crucifixion." 
 
 There is, however, near the entrance into this 
 church, that which the inhabitants of Antwerp 
 seem to prize as highly as any of their paintings, 
 though exhibiting a more striking instance of 
 religious fanaticism than good taste. This is a 
 representation of Mount Calvary, professing to 
 be a fac-simile of that scriptural scene, thronged 
 with patriarchs, prophets, and apostles, almost 
 as large as life, and all exhibiting correct like- 
 nesses of the originals ! 
 
 Descending a few steps under an artificial 
 rock, the stranger is shewn the tomb of Christ. 
 Here, by the light of a few dim tapers, is seen 
 the Saviour, shrouded in dusty finery; whilst 
 near him are represented, in glaring red, all the 
 horrors and torments of purgatory. 
 
 My guide devoutly crossed himself as he 
 approached this part of the scene, about which 
 were prostrated many old men and women, appa- 
 rently with unfeigned devotion. Rude and bor- 
 dering on the burlesque as is the whole of this 
 representation, yet there is something serious 
 
 c 4 
 
iS^ ANTWERP. 
 
 and solemn in the sight, and no one can gaze 
 upon it altogether unaffected. 
 
 Antwerp boasting of the extraordinary honour 
 of ha\ing been the birthplace of Vandyke, as 
 well as Rubens, besides Teniers, Snyders, and 
 many other great artists of the Flemish school, 
 I was very desirous of getting a sight of tlie 
 public exhibition of paintings belonging to this 
 city. This I did just accomplish, but it became 
 dark before I coidd examine half the riches of 
 this splendid gallery. 
 
 There are also some noble private collections 
 of paintings in this city, but my time and strength 
 were now both exhausted, and when I reached 
 the inn, I was glad of the opportunity of rest. 
 
 Friday^ Sept. 7. Left Antwerp (or as it is 
 better known to the inhabitants, Anvers) at four 
 o'clock this morning, for Bergen-op-Zoom, which 
 celebrated fortress I had some curiosity to 
 visit. 
 
 About a league and a half from the city, the 
 appearance of the country changes from low 
 grazing land to an extensive and barren licath, 
 producing notliing but a short purple heather, 
 and the high road now becomes lost in a sandy 
 
BERGEN-OP-ZOOM. 25 
 
 track, in which our carriage-wheels sunk nearly 
 a foot deep in loose sand. This wide scene of 
 sterility is bounded at a considerable distance 
 by the sea, wliich presents the appearance of a 
 great lake, intersected by various low islands, 
 clothed with underwood, as also by vast accu- 
 mulations of sand and mud, covered with reeds 
 and rushes. Here the road continues to approach 
 until it runs under the large dyke or sea-wall, 
 which alone prevents the sea from overwhelming 
 the whole country as far as the eye can reach. 
 
 From hence, amidst numerous flats, or mud 
 deposits, the extensive sands of south Beveland 
 are just visible above the surface of the water. 
 The whole is a strange scene, certainly deriving 
 any interest which it possesses from the circum- 
 stance of its novelty rather than from its natural 
 beauty. Pursuing our course for some leagues 
 through this extraordinary country, we at last 
 came in sight of the fortifications of Bergen-op- 
 Zoom, and the clanking draw-bridges announced 
 our near approach to the town, of which no part, 
 with the exception of the church steeple and a 
 tower, was yet visible. Presently our carriage 
 rattled through the dark covert- ways, and pass- 
 ing under several ponderous and threatening port- 
 cullises, we at length entered the town by a 
 massy gateway. 
 
26 BERGEN-OP-ZOOM. 
 
 There is something about the entrance into a 
 regular fortress such as this, which, in the stran- 
 ger's mind, gives rise to a variety of feehngs of 
 a serious and impressive nature. The numerous 
 draw-bridges by which he passes, the dreary and 
 swampy moats circUng within circles, the mys- 
 terious darkness of the long and winding covert- 
 ways, the ponderous engines of destruction wliich 
 he sees suspended over his head, the gloomy and 
 massy gateways, the clanking of chains, and the 
 screeching noise of slowly-yielding grating, witli 
 the silent and surly-looking sentinels stationed 
 at their respective posts, throw around the dis- 
 mal and confined scene a sort of fearful solem- 
 nity which pervades the mind, and so distempers 
 the imagination, that the traveller, imused to 
 such sights, now fancies that he sees realized 
 around him half the dark mysteries of Udolpho. 
 
 The town itself is small, and the streets are 
 dark, narrow, and irregular. It is situated on 
 the river Zoom, and but for the low surrounding 
 swamps towards the sea, seems to be entirely 
 wanting in all natural advantages for defence. 
 As a specimen of art, however, this fortress is 
 said to be the most perfect ever formed, and has 
 always been considered as tlie chef-d-icuvre of 
 the celebrated Coehorn. But })ossessing so little 
 knowledge as I do upon the subject of fortilica- 
 
WILLIAMSTADT. 27 
 
 tion, any attempt on my part to enter into a 
 scientific description on the present occasion, 
 would, in all probability, serve only to heap to- 
 gether a collection of misapplied terms of art, 
 amidst which the reader would soon be utterly 
 lost. I shall therefore content myself with ob- 
 serving, that upon more minute inspection, I 
 was struck with amazement at the appearance 
 of impenetrable strength here displayed by hu- 
 man ingenuity, and I will venture to say, that 
 similar will be the feelings of every traveller, 
 whether practised in military tactics or not, on 
 his first visit to the fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom. 
 
 Impregnable, however, as this fortress appears 
 to be, it has not proved strong enough to resist 
 the force of British arms, and I know not whe- 
 ther the recollection of this fact, or the sight of 
 these barriers themselves, operate most power- 
 fully on the mind, if contemplated as instances 
 of human ingenuity. 
 
 The next place of any importance through 
 which I passed, was the sea-port town of Wil- 
 liamstadt. This is another strong fortress, and 
 is considered to be one of the keys of Holland. 
 
 It is most unhealthily situated in the midst of 
 mud-banks and marshes, and its streets are close 
 
28 WILLI AMSTADT. FERRIES. 
 
 and narrow. This fortress stood out successfully 
 a siege by General Diunourier, at the period of 
 the French Revolution, and the inhabitants are 
 yet proud of shewing upon their houses the 
 marks of that tremendous assault. 
 
 Here I crossed over in a boat one of those 
 large channels or inroads of the sea so frequently 
 occurring on this part of the coast of Holland. 
 I had already crossed several smaller channels, 
 but these had been passed over in flat-bottomed 
 boats, formed for conveying the carriage with 
 all its incumbrances, and the traveller keeps his 
 seat no otherwise disturbed or incommoded than 
 by the violent and sudden contrariety of motions 
 to which he is necessarily subjected during his 
 descent and ascent into and out of the bark. 
 
 On the present occasion, as the channel to be 
 crossed is above a league in breadth, the prepa- 
 rations were something more important, and 
 here, quitting the carriage altogether, my luggage 
 was conveyed into a stout sea-boat, regularly 
 equipped with sails. 
 
 Having a fine breeze, we scudded rapidly 
 along, passing to the right of the island called 
 Over Flackee, and in about twenty minutes we 
 landed at a little village on the opposite side. 
 
DORT. ROTTERDAM. 29 
 
 I now hired a Dutch-fashioned vehicle on two 
 wheels, (the most uneasy sort of convenience on 
 wheels, without any exception, that I was ever 
 seated in) and in about an hour and a half I 
 arrived at Dort ; but, being anxious to get on to 
 Rotterdam this evening, I set out again without 
 delay, and after passing over two large branches 
 of the Meuse, I at length readied the place of 
 my destination. 
 
 As other thoughts now occupied me than the 
 novelty of the scene around, I hastened (after 
 depositing my luggage at the hotel d' Angleterre) 
 to seek out the parties concerned in the imme- 
 diate object of my visit here. Unluckily, how- 
 ever, they were not now at llotterdam, but at a 
 place called Oerschot, a small village in the in- 
 terior of the province of Dutch Brabant. After 
 talking the matter over with a gentleman in the 
 house of our excellent consul, he very politely 
 offered to accompany me to tliis out-of-the-way 
 place, being well acquainted with the country 
 and the language, two points of information 
 now highly necessary. 
 
 During the evening I took a stroll by moon- 
 light about the town, and by accident wandered 
 on to tlie beautiful quay called the Boompjes. 
 The bright reflection of the moon upon the 
 
ROTTERDAM TO OERSCHOT. DORT, 
 
 waters of the Meuse, here sweeping onward in 
 a broad full stately course, was now contrasted 
 with the dark shadows thrown upon the river 
 by tlie long avenue of lofty trees which lines the 
 margin of the quay ; the noble houses which 
 occupy the opposite side of the walk added 
 grandeur to the effect ; and the stillness of night 
 heightened the interest of the whole. It was a 
 scene of much novelty to me, but it was also 
 majestic and impressive. 
 
 Saturday y Sept. 8. Set out early this morn- 
 ing on our way to Oerschot ; re-passed the two 
 great ferries, and arrived once more at Dort. 
 
 As we stopped here to take an early dinner, 
 this second visit afforded me an opportunity of 
 seeing something of the town. Dort, or Dord- 
 recht, is said to be one of the most ancient towns 
 of Holland. It stands on an island formed by 
 the Meuse, having been separated from the 
 opposite shore some centuries ago, by a frightful 
 irruption of the waters, which laid waste the 
 whole of this part of the country ; sweeping 
 away at the same time a great proportion of its 
 population. Formerly this was the great com- 
 mercial town of Holland, but its trade is now 
 very much reduced, although its natural advan- 
 tages of situation remain. It, however, still car- 
 
ROTTERDAM TO OERSCHOT. DORT. 31 
 
 ries on a considerable trade in timber, which is 
 floated down the Rhine, in the shape of immense 
 rafts. 
 
 Rotterdam has principally subtracted the 
 trade of Dort, a fact which, on seeing the 
 superior advantages of this latter town, causes 
 some sui-prise. Ships of six and seven hundred 
 tons can, as I was informed, sail with ease into 
 the town of Dort, whereas ships of only four 
 hundred tons with difficulty enter Rotterdam ; 
 nor could I learn that Rotterdam possesses any 
 one advantage over Dort as a commercial poit, 
 other than what has been acquired by the ex- 
 penditure of a greater capital. 
 
 The river is trained in the shape of canals of 
 great depth, and noble width, through all the 
 streets of Dort, but the buildings for the most 
 part are old fashioned, and present nothing par- 
 ticularly interesting in exterior appearance. 
 
 After making a hasty meal we stepped into a 
 small open boat, in readiness to convey us across 
 the last and broadest of these ferries. This was 
 the same channel which I had already passed over 
 from Williamstadt, but we now crossed in a 
 broader part. 
 
32 ROTTERDAM TO OERSCHOT. MOERDYK. 
 
 During the passage we were overtaken by a 
 tremendous storm of thunder, Hghtning, and rain, 
 but not a perceptible breath of wind moved over 
 the surface of this vast and ahnost motionless ex- 
 panse of water ; and therefore, being entirely 
 dependant upon the oars, we had sufficient time 
 for the contemplation of this singular and im- 
 posing scene. The sluggish and hardly-percep- 
 tible motion of the water, the apparent deadness 
 of the air, the tremendous peals of thunder roll- 
 ing and crashing through the wide vault of 
 liea\'en around us ; the clattering of the close 
 and heavy rain, and our own exposed situation, 
 in a little open boat, raised such a variety of 
 emotions in the mind, tliat I can hardly say 
 whether the feelings of awe, astonishment, or 
 delight, at the solemnity and novelty of the 
 scene predominated. 
 
 By the time that we had run our boat up the 
 little inlet to the village of Moerdyk, on the 
 opposite side, the storm had passed over, and 
 having, with tolerable success, by means of ample 
 travelling cloaks, contrived to protect ourselves 
 from the wet, we now hired another caleche, 
 and a pair of horses, for the remainder of our 
 journey, this being the last place on the road 
 where such acconnnodations could be found. 
 
ROTTERDAM TO OERSCHOT. 33 
 
 The nature of the road to be passed required 
 stout cattle, and the worthy host himself seemed 
 to think that one of them was incapable of per- 
 forming the journey, though when the unfortu- 
 nate animal was brought out, he sought all in 
 his power to comfort us by such consoling assur- 
 ances, as that the " paard" was better to go than 
 to look at. There seemed however to be no 
 choice, and our steeds being harnessed, we 
 stepped into the carriage and drove off. 
 
 We had not proceeded far when our driver's 
 halloo announced to us that a cart-horse belong- 
 ing to his master, which had been at work in the 
 fields, was in view : presently the cumbrous 
 trappings of the cart were transferred to our 
 aged and discarded servant, and a sleek and 
 bouncing mare was invested with our light rope 
 harness. The animals themselves appeared in 
 more appropriate character ; all parties seemed 
 better pleased, and now, all right, we again set 
 off, but with brisker pace and lighter spirits. 
 
 We now pursued a course across the country, 
 between Breda and Bois-le-duc, over one conti- 
 nued expanse of barren heath, as far as the eye 
 could distinguish, and with no other road than a 
 mere sandy track. 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
34} ROTTERDAM TO OERSCHOT. 
 
 The whole of this part of the country presents 
 a scene of as utter desolation as the imagination 
 can picture, being a continuation of a flat 
 sandy heath, here and there varied with a little 
 brushwood. 
 
 Arrived in the evening at a miserable little 
 village, about four leagues from the place of our 
 destination, we came just in time to witness 
 the conclusion of an afternoon's jollification 
 amongst the Dutch boors of this sequestered 
 spot. 
 
 But this is a scene which has been so fre- 
 quently described by Teniers, and other cele- 
 brated painters, and the description is still so 
 accurate, that it is here unnecessary for me to 
 enter into details. I shall therefore onl}- observe 
 that, having laughed often and heartily at these 
 copies from nature, on canvass, i found an infi- 
 nite deal of amusement in this original. 
 
 After chatting over coffee till a late Jiour with 
 my intelligent companion and fellow-traveller, 
 from whom I received miicli interesting inform- 
 ation about this country, I retired to bed, but 
 alas ! not to rest, for after much mananivring 
 between sheets, coverlids, and blankets, in vain 
 attempts to escape from the host of blood-thirsty 
 
OERSCHOT. 35 
 
 enemies which unrelentingly pursued me through 
 the night ; I was literally, before the dawn of 
 morning came to my reliefj chased from every 
 hiding place, and forced to seek my safety, as a 
 last resource, in flight. 
 
 Sunday^ Sept. 9. Eager to escape from this 
 place, I proceeded to the chamber-door of my 
 fellow-traveller, and, acquainting him with the 
 cause of my restless state, I urged our speedy 
 departure. Similar motives to mine brought 
 ready acquiescence on his part ; and, by the dawn 
 of day, we were both again seated in our car- 
 riage. 
 
 Between nine and ten o'clock we reached 
 Oerschot, and the remainder of the day was oc- 
 cupied in the object of my visit to this place. 
 
 The business of the day being completed, I 
 accepted a polite invitation to join a family circle, 
 which, besides the recommendations it possessed 
 within itself, received a very agreeable addition 
 in the company of an elegant and accomplished 
 young lady, a foreigner, on a visit here j the 
 afternoon passed so pleasantly away, that this 
 village of Dutch boors, in the midst of these bar- 
 ren and sequestered wilds, m as quite forgotten. 
 
 D 2 
 
96 OERSCHOT. 
 
 On my first entrance into our little inn par- 
 lour this morning, I was struck with the appear- 
 ance of an old painting on pannel, " The Virgin 
 and Child,'* by Otto Van Veen. By means of 
 my companion, who was my interpreter, I ex- 
 plained to my hostess that I had taken a fancy to 
 this picture, and that if she were inclined to part 
 with it, I would tell her down forty guilders. 
 The old lady asked time to consider the offer, 
 and our treaty was accordingly postponed until 
 to-morrow. 
 
 Monday y Sept. 10. Afler taking my leave of the 
 agreeable family before mentioned, I returned 
 to the inn, and found the old woman of the house 
 and her husband looking out for my arrival. 
 Though the heir-loom seemed to be much prized, 
 yet they observed that forty guilders would pur- 
 chase many comforts. In fine, the money was a 
 strong temptation to disobey the alledged injunc- 
 tion of the old lady's forefathers, and the picture 
 was handed over to me ; I then made the old cou- 
 ple quite happy by throwing in an additional guil- 
 der for luck money. Having stripped off a black 
 cumbrous frame (thereby reducing the picture 
 to a convenient cabinet size), and whilst the 
 old woman was carefully packing the treasure 
 in brown paper, our carriage drove up to the 
 door, and in a few minutes more my companion 
 
BOIS-LE-DUC. 37 
 
 and myself were on our road to Bois-le-duc. 
 Of the village of Oerschot I have yet said nothing, 
 and there is but little to be said, as it consists 
 only of a few houses, built round a large open 
 space, in the centre of which is the usual orna- 
 ment of most of the Dutch villages, a fine old 
 yew tree. Hard by is a large antiquated brick 
 church, capable of accomodating at least three 
 times the population of this place, and the sur- 
 rounding coimtry is the same barren sandy heath 
 as before described. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock in the after- 
 noon, we reached Bois-le-duc, one of the principal 
 fortified towns on the line of demarcation between 
 Holland and the province of Dutch Brabant. 
 
 This town, which, as I was informed, owes 
 its name to the circumstance of having been 
 formerly surrounded by a wood, in which the 
 Dukes of Brabant used to hunt, is situated on 
 the Dommel, at its confluence with the Aa, and 
 is so completely surrounded with swampy and 
 impassable marshes, that the only access is over 
 a high and extensive causeway. 
 
 To the force of arms, these fortifications are 
 considered impregnable, for, besides the great 
 natural advantages of situation, the town itself 
 
 D 3 
 
38 BOIS-LE-DUC TO UTRECHT. DYKES. 
 
 is protected by lofty and massy walls, and the 
 whole of this lon<^- causeway being capable of 
 being defended inch by inch, by means of })()vver- 
 ful bastions, enfilading batteries, &c. and the 
 communication being liable to be cut off in all 
 directions by numerous draw-bridges, no artillery 
 can be brought to bear with any effect. 
 
 After spending an hour in walking about the 
 town, the most remarkable character in the inte- 
 rior of which is, the great number of bridges 
 and canals, we set out for Bommel. 
 
 The country now becomes more interesting, 
 and the advantages of the dyke system are here 
 strikingly apparent. Comfortable little habita- 
 tions are seen around in all directions, and the 
 country assumes the appearance of one rich 
 meadow. Some of the dykes, on the top of 
 which the high road generally runs, are here 
 upon a stupendous scale, and the extraordinary 
 sight is frequently presented to the traveller of 
 a canal, between forty and fifty feet in breadth, 
 the surface of tlie water in which is only a few 
 inches below the level of tlie road on one side, 
 w^hen at about the same level on the opposite 
 side of the road, are seen the chimney tops of 
 the farm houses, wliich are built at the foot of 
 these enormous mounds, apparently for shelter 
 
BOIS-LE-UUC TO UTRECHT. BOMMEL. 39 
 
 and protection. Remarking that these situations 
 arc generally preferred by the farmers for erect- 
 ing their liabitations, I was led to suppose that 
 this choice is not made without some good reason, 
 and it seems that these situations are considered 
 to be the safest in cases of sudden inundation. 
 
 Not far from the town of Bommel, I saw the 
 effects of a recent breach in one of the minor 
 dykes. This breach was now repaired, but a 
 large tract of land was under water. The mode 
 of repairing these ruptures seems to be, to carry 
 out a new dyke in a semicular form, joining at 
 both ends with the fractured part. In the present 
 instance the new work embraced a very extensive 
 sweep. 
 
 About nine o'clock we entered Bommel, an- 
 other almost impregnable fortress. This town 
 stands on a small island, formed by the separation 
 of the river Waal into two branches. 
 
 The principal commerce of the place is in 
 agricultural produce, but even this is very preca- 
 rious, owing to the frequent inundations to which 
 the surrounding country is subjected. 
 
 Having agreed to push on to Utrecht to-night, 
 we now bargained for another carriage and pair 
 
 D 4t 
 
40 BOIS-LE-DUC TO UTRECHT. DYKES. 
 
 of horses, and whilst these were preparing, we sat 
 down to tea and coffee, with excellent bread and 
 butter, telling of the richness of the land, and 
 the usual accompaniment of hogsvleesch, and 
 various dried meats. 
 
 In due time our vehicle was announced, and 
 having made all necessary arrangements and 
 having adjusted our travelling cloaks, the better 
 to enable us to encounter the chilly air of night, 
 we gave the order for advance ; a flourishing crack 
 of the whip was the recognizing signal and notice 
 of departure. 
 
 At a short distance beyond the fortifications 
 of the town, we crossed rapidly over the other 
 branch of the Waal, by means of that simple and 
 admirable contrivance, the flying-bridge. 
 
 The moon was now beautifully bright, and 
 enabled me to see this interesting part of the 
 country to advantage. Here the attention of 
 the traveller is arrested by majestic rivers, exten- 
 sive lakes, and broad canals, raised sometimes 
 upwards of twenty feet above the level of the 
 surrounding country, and by the luxuriant ap- 
 pearance of the meadows which fill up the watery 
 landscape. The dykes also arc here enormous 
 in their construction, and form another peculiar 
 
BOIS-LE-DUC TO UTRECHT. DYKES. 41 
 
 feature in this extraordinary scene ; generally, 
 however, as accui'ately as I could determine by 
 the eye, these dykes are from fifteen to twenty 
 feet in height, sloping at an angle of from thirty 
 to forty-five degrees, between twenty-five and 
 thirty-five feet wide at the top, and something 
 more than double that width at the base. One 
 side of the dyke frequently forms the bank of 
 the canal, which is usually upon a large scale, 
 and about five or six feet in depth, so that the 
 bottom of the canal is consequently between ten 
 and fourteen feet above the level of the sur- 
 rounding country ; and where the dyke forms 
 the only embankment against a river, as is often 
 the case, the whole work is upon a still larger 
 scale ; how great, therefore, must be the solici- 
 tude of the inhabitants for the preservation of 
 these mighty barriers, may be imagined. 
 
 About twelve o'clock we crossed the river 
 Leek, by another flying-bridge. 
 
 The morning air now came very cold over 
 this wide expanse of open country, and wrap- 
 ping ourselves more closely in our cloaks, by 
 degrees our conversation flagged, until at last 
 we pursued our course in silence. About one 
 o'clock our meditations were disturbed by a 
 distant sound of human voices ; as we advanced 
 
42 UTRECHT. 
 
 the sound approached, and our curiosity in- 
 creased until we saw before us, in the road, a 
 motley crowd of chaunting pilgrims. What 
 with the grotesque appearance of some of these 
 figures, their monotonous and melancholy noise, 
 and the time and place of meeting, there was a 
 strange mixture of solemnity and absurdity in 
 this sight ; but I fancy the latter of these oppo- 
 site effects prevailed, for although now nearly 
 overcome with drowsiness by the chilliness of the 
 air, I could not refrain from a hearty laugh at 
 this holy procession, even before it had fairly 
 passed us on the road. 
 
 About three o'clock in tlie morning we arrived 
 before the gates of Utrecht, but not being able 
 to enter the town at this unseasonable hour, we 
 stopt at the door of a small neighbouring inn, 
 W'hen our driver commenced vociferations in 
 tones so audible, as quickly brought our host's 
 head out of his little chamber window. 
 
 A Dutchman, perhaps, more readily than any 
 other person in the world, will put himself to 
 personal inconvenience for a con-si-dc-ra-tion ; 
 and presently the outer door was unbolted, when 
 a gigantic figure in white stood before me. This 
 was our host, who had been so liastily disturbed 
 as to have had little time left at his disposal for 
 
UTRECHT. 43 
 
 the toilet. But it was a good-tempered giant, and 
 he quickly set about getting things as comfort- 
 able as the short notice permitted. 
 
 A double-bedded room happened to afford 
 the best accommodation, and, being too weary to 
 be fastidious, in a few minutes afterwards I was 
 sound asleep. 
 
 How long I enjoyed my refreshing slumber 
 I can only guess; for about day-break I was 
 awakened by tremendous vociferations in the 
 Dutch language, and which seemed to issue from 
 so near a quarter, that I started up in bed 
 under the sudden impression of impending dan- 
 ger ; but all was now silent. I remained, how- 
 ever, in my sitting posture, and before I had 
 recovered from my first amazement, the same 
 fearful and unintelligible sounds were repeated. 
 I now discovered that these issued from the 
 neighbouring pallet, occupied by my fellow- 
 traveller, and the whole mystery being at once 
 explained, I laid myself down, and all recol- 
 lections were again soon lost in sleep, which, 
 wath the exception of occasional interruptions, 
 owing to my friend's discursive fancy and sten- 
 torian lungs, continued until broad day. The 
 cause of this uproar is probably already antici- 
 
*4 UTRECHT. 
 
 pated ; and my fellow-traveller is discovered to 
 be one of that race called Somnambulists. 
 
 In the course of our progress along tlie road 
 during the night, my companion had prudently 
 favoured me with the following pleasing inform- 
 ation, together with many interesting particulars, 
 which I need not here enumerate. He informed 
 me that he was one of that class of Somnambulists 
 which, for the purpose of distinction from the 
 harmless and sentimental sleep-walkers, may be 
 termed " the Franticks.*' 
 
 As far as a short acquaintance enables me 
 to speak, this is an agreeable and intelligent 
 gentleman, in whom mildness is apparently, 
 when awake, a predominant trait of character. 
 When asleep, however, he describes himself as 
 an infuriate being; and the specimen of to-night 
 induced me to give full credit to his claim to 
 this title at such times. He had, it seems, 
 already twice nearly destroyed his wife during 
 these sleeping paroxysms. On one of these 
 occasions, lie describes that he fancied a tiger 
 in tlie act of tearing his wife to pieces, and that 
 to rescue her he seized the ferocious animal 
 by the throat, in the hope of effecting its de- 
 struction by strangulation ; but unluckily he 
 
UTRECHT. 45 
 
 mistook his wife for the tiger, and had it not 
 been for timely assistance, brought by tlie noise 
 of this fearful contest, the work of destruction 
 would probably have been effected before the 
 mistake had been discovered. As it was, he 
 related that he, as well as his wife, were a long 
 time in recovering, the one from the severe 
 shock on coming to his senses, and the other 
 from the bruises she received. His little child, 
 who slept in the same room with them, on 
 another occasion, had a similar and equally nar- 
 row escape. He, however, now contrives at 
 home to have assistance near at hand ; and he 
 gave me the comfortable assurance that when- 
 ever he sleeps away from home, he always takes 
 the precaution of securing himself strongly to 
 his bed. The knowledge that this precaution 
 had been taken, accounts for my composure on 
 the present occasion. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 11. Rose at seven, and rousing 
 my still slumbering fellow-traveller, we attired 
 ourselves and entered the celebrated town of 
 
 Utrecht. 
 
 Utrecht is remarkable and pleasing in its 
 appearance, being situated on the banks of the 
 Rhine, and on what in Holland is a rare occur- 
 rence, a rising ground. 
 
46 UTRECHT. CANALS. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 The canals which intersect the streets produce 
 a singular effect, being generally twenty or thirty 
 feet below the level of the houses, most of which 
 communicate with the canals by means of sub- 
 terraneous passages. One of the bad conse- 
 quences of this, however, is, that the offal of the 
 town is flung into the canals, which are thereby 
 made to partake too much of the nature of com- 
 mon sewers. 
 
 Independently of this disagreeable feature, the 
 town presents a pleasing appearance, and the 
 public promenade, through numerous avenues 
 of handsome trees, is highly ornamental. 
 
 The cathedral, which is here shewn as an 
 admired structure, is in ruins, and from this 
 circumstance, in my opinion, derives its principal 
 interest. The tower is very lofty, and from the 
 top is said to be seen the most extensive view in 
 Europe. This, whether a fact or not, was suffi- 
 cient to induce me to undergo the fatigue of 
 ascending, a labour by no means trifling, the 
 height being reckoned at about four hundred 
 feet. Mid-way up to the old and ruined belfry, 
 is a large space converted into a dwelling-place 
 for a numerous family. The novel appearance 
 of this ele\ ated domicile excited my curiosity, 
 which, a considerable degree of exhaustion from 
 
UTRECHT. CATHEDRAL. 47 
 
 the exertion of mounting the steep and narrow 
 stair-case, induced me to gratify by resting here. 
 A Uttle furniture, and a snug chimney-corner, in 
 which were seated a woman and several young 
 children with their porringers, had thrown an 
 air of comfort around this gloomy spot: so cheer- 
 ing, even in the most dreary solitude, are any 
 objects associated with the habitation of a human 
 being. 
 
 Having gained breath by this pause, we set 
 out to accomplish the remainder of the ascent ; 
 but which, from the more confined and winding 
 stair-case, was now still more fatiguing than 
 before. Determined, however, to complete ef- 
 fectually our laborious task, we climbed to the 
 highest accessible elevation, and were fully recom- 
 penced for all our trouble. The view, indeed, 
 is so extensive, that how to convey any idea of it 
 to the reader I know not, furtlier than by telling 
 him what the man who dwells below, and attended . 
 us up here, told me, which is, that the eye from 
 hence can distinguish between fifty and sixty 
 walled towns and cities. This statement I am 
 unable to contradict or to confirm, but the view 
 is certainly more extensive than I could have 
 imagined capable of being brouglit before the 
 sio'ht at once ; and if not beautiful, is assuredly 
 extraordinary and interesting. 
 
48 UTRECHT TO AMSTERDAM. DUTCH VILLAS. 
 
 After making as minute a survey as time would 
 allow, we commenced our descent, both of us 
 being higlily gratified, but greatly fatigued. As 
 to the descent, by the time that I reached the 
 bottom, I was absolutely giddy and full of aches. 
 I would therefore warn those whose curiosity 
 may lead them to the top of the cathedral tower 
 of Utrecht, not to attempt this undertaking before 
 breakfast, for such was now my state of exliaus- 
 tion, that when I sat down to the breakfast- table 
 all appetite was gone. 
 
 After this meal, alike unrefreshing to my 
 companion as to myself, we hired another car- 
 riage and pair of post-horses to Amsterdam. 
 
 The road from Utrecht to Amsterdam is con- 
 sidered by all Dutclimen as passing through the 
 most beautiful and picturesque part of Holland. 
 Tlie whole line is over a flat and fertile country, 
 along the banks of the great canal, which is orna- 
 mented on both sides with nearly one continued 
 range of country-seats, belonging to tlie wealthy 
 merchants. 
 
 The extremely rich appearance of this part of 
 the country, the noble breadth of the canal, over- 
 hung with weeping willows, and the quick suc- 
 cession of ornamented villas passing before the 
 
ENTRANCE INTO AMSTERDAM. 49 
 
 view, render this certainly a very interesting 
 scene, and not without rural beauty. 
 
 Besides the advantage of witnessing the most 
 admired of all Dutch scenery, the traveller during 
 this ride is gratified with the sight of what are 
 considered to be the best specimens of Dutch 
 taste in architecture, and ornamental grounds. 
 Some of these villas are built in the midst of 
 stagnant pools, others are surrounded with 
 stagnant canals; but all boast the ornament 
 of a piece of water presenting a fine verdant 
 surface. 
 
 A little above the village of Loenen, the river 
 Vecht turns off and pursues its course into the 
 Zuyder Zee, and soon, at a great distance, is 
 seen Amsterdam, looking like a magnificent city 
 rising from the waters. 
 
 I know no city, the distant view of which is 
 so striking as that of Amsterdam. The eye 
 travels over one vast flat meadow of the richest 
 herbage, and at the extremity of this, the view 
 is bounded by a thick crowd of towers, cupolas, 
 and spires. On a nearer approach, so level is 
 the wide expanse around, that the eye seems to 
 embrace at once the whole of this magnificent 
 city, and crowds of masts are seen mingling 
 
 VOL. I. E 
 
50 ENTRANCE INTO AMSTERDAM. 
 
 with tlie houses. It is a sight truly imposing, 
 and worthy of this great commercial nation. 
 
 After having had this noble object for at least 
 an hour in view, we reached the river Amstel, 
 and pursuing our course along its banks, we 
 entered the grand commercial metropolis of 
 Holland. 
 
 The effect of this entrance is very striking. 
 The river here flows with a broad and handsome 
 sweep between an avenue of lofty and shady 
 trees, and on each side is a line of splendid man- 
 sions, the residences of the wealthy merchants. 
 
 Proceeding through several other streets, all 
 of which, in respect of exterior magnificence, 
 must reahze the fullest expectations of the 
 stranger, we entered into the bustle of the city. 
 
 Here, owing to carts, sledges, carriages, ships, 
 and bridges, our progress was much impeded, 
 but at last our vehicle stopj)ed before the door 
 of the Hotel du grand Doelcn, wliere the host 
 and hostess, with a collection of domestics, were 
 presently assembled for our reception, and we 
 now underwent all the ceremonious congra- 
 tulations and obsequious attentions usually be- 
 -stowed upon travellers of onr a])j)earance. 
 
AMSTERDAM. CANALS. 51 
 
 After a polite reception from the British 
 Consul, with wliom I had to dispatch some offi- 
 cial business, I joined my companion at the inn 
 at a late dinner. 
 
 The usual cup of coffee being concluded, we 
 took a moonliglit stroll about this part of the 
 town. But the pleasure of an evening walk 
 through the streets of Amsterdam, at the present 
 period of the year is, to a stranger, almost de- 
 stroyed by the pestilential stench arising from 
 the canals. In the day time the nuisance is bad 
 enough, but when the evening exhalations begin 
 to rise after a hot sun, the nuisance, to one unac- 
 customed to a residence here, is scarcely sup- 
 portable. Most of the canals of this city are of 
 great breadth, and contain so large a body of 
 water, as not to shew much appearance of im- 
 purity until the passing of a barge has, by 
 means of the long poles used to impel it, dis- 
 turbed some of the filthy sediment. The nox- 
 ious vapour which then arises, (particularly at 
 the close of a hot autumnal day,) is only to be 
 imagined by those who have inhaled it. 
 
 My companion, although for some years past 
 a resident at Rotterdam, was now equally glad 
 with myself, and for the same reason, to return 
 to the inn, and we eacli of us shortly afterwards 
 
 E 2 
 
52 AMSTERDAM. ORIGIN OF. 
 
 retired for the night to our separate apartments. 
 But so possessed was I with the disagreeable 
 stench, that now, on entering my room, I could 
 not help fancying myself pursued by the offen- 
 sive vapour. At last, however, this stench 
 seemed so fixed and substantial, that I began to 
 think it partook more of reality than fancy, and 
 I actually set about hunting down the scent; 
 nor was it long before I succeeded, for, applying 
 my nose to the crevices between the boards of 
 the floor, all doubt, as well concerning the 
 cause as the existence of the effect, was instantly 
 removed. 
 
 This little room, in one corner of which 
 stood my bed, I should observe, was upon 
 the ground floor, which even the inhabitants 
 themselves, as I afterwards learnt, consider very 
 objectionable for the purposes of a sleeping 
 room. The reason of this, to those who are ac- 
 quainted with the history of the first foundation 
 of Amsterdam, must be very apparent. 
 
 In the thirteenth century, the space wliere 
 this city now stands was a deep and pestilential 
 morass, at the mouth of the river Amstel, covered 
 only with a few fishermens* huts. 
 
 By means of strong piles driven into the mud, 
 houses were erected over this morass, and by 
 
AMSTERDAM. FOUNDATION OF. 53 
 
 the ingenuity and perseverance of this extraor- 
 dinary people, Amsterdam, to the astonishment 
 of Europe, rose, as of a sudden, into all its pre- 
 sent s^Dlendour. 
 
 Every building in this magniiicenc city stands 
 upon enormous piles, and it was in allusion to 
 this forest foundation, that Erasmus, when he 
 first visited Amsterdam, observed, ** that he had 
 reached a city, the inhabitants of which lived 
 like crows upon the tops of trees." 
 
 What, therefore, must be the underground 
 scene in Amsterdam, may be left to the imagi- 
 nation. 
 
 However, to return to my little bed-room, my 
 olfactory nerves had now convinced me with 
 quite as much certainty as my optics could have 
 done, that I was not very far above the water 
 level. But weariness, I hoped, would soon over- 
 power all the senses, — and so it did, — all but 
 one, — for thougli I contrived to sleep and to 
 forget damp sheets, which were more than suf- 
 ficiently moist to have satisfied Dr. Franklin 
 himselfj I seemed never once throughout the 
 night to have forgotton that I was sleeping a few 
 inches above a stinking ditch. 
 
 E 3 
 
54f AMSTERDAM. IIARIJOL'K. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. V2. With tlie first dawn 
 of morning, I escaped from my den of pesti- 
 lence, but not without being very sensibly and 
 most unpleasantly affected with various unfavor- 
 able symptoms. 
 
 My first measures, on leaving my room, 
 (which of course I determined never to enter 
 again,) were of a precautionary nature, and for- 
 tunately succeeded more effectually than I could 
 have expected; but enough of this, if it only 
 operate as a caution to other novices like myself, 
 never to sleep on a ground floor in any town of 
 Holland. 
 
 After breakfast I found myself so mucli re- 
 covered, that we planned, as a scheme for the 
 dayj a visit to the little village of Brock. 
 
 As this village is situated at some distance 
 ofij on the opposite side of the harbour of Am- 
 sterdam, it was necessary to pass over in a boat, 
 which afforded me an opportunity of witnessing 
 this busy and interesting scene to advantage. 
 
 The harbour of Amsterdam is in the channel 
 which forms the communication between the 
 Zuvder Zee and tlie. Haarlem Meei*. Owiiiff to 
 the narrowness of this strait, the current liere sets 
 
AMSTERDAM. HARBOUR. 55 
 
 in very powerfully, and to break its effect towards 
 the town, as also to keep off the large floats of 
 ice which would in winter be productive of se- 
 rious damage, the whole of this side of the town 
 is protected by ranges of strong piles. These, 
 appearing high above the water, present a curi- 
 ous appearance, but much more curious is the 
 appearance on close examination. Most of these 
 piles are more or less covered with holes of vari- 
 ous sizes, from the sinallest dots to about two- 
 thirds of an inch in diameter. The water being 
 now low, afforded me an opportunity of observ- 
 ing the singular cause of this appearance. It is 
 all effected by a sort of grub of a greyish colour, 
 and these creatures, continuing their operations 
 of boring through the different periods of their 
 growth, leave these various traces of the pro- 
 gressive increase of their size, nor does the M^ork 
 of destruction stop until the whole remaining 
 substance presents the appearance of a honey- 
 comb. When this state arrives, the strength of 
 the wood can no longer be relied upon, and the 
 diseased pile is then entirely withdrawn, to be re- 
 placed by a new one, and although cut out of 
 the tougliest heart of oak which can be procured, 
 yet, as I was informed, so rapid are the ravages 
 of these creatures, that in a few years the full 
 extent of mischief is effected. 
 
 E 4 
 
56 AMSTERDAM. GRAND CANAL. 
 
 I myself saw one of the piles, which for this 
 cause had been taken up, and what remained of 
 the original substance, was, I should be in- 
 clined to think, even harder than when first put 
 down. I was desirous of possessing a small 
 piece of this wood as a specimen of this curious 
 effect, but it was some time before a man with 
 a heavy cleaver could make any impression, and 
 at last, after many efforts, only a small piece flew 
 off, like a bit of iron separated by a violent and 
 sudden blow. 
 
 But to quit this digression : after satisfying 
 our curiosity about the harbour, we landed on 
 the opposite side, and here my attention was 
 arrested by another subject of so great interest, 
 that I cannot pass it over without mention. 
 
 This is a new grand canal, which connects the 
 harbour of Amsterdam with the Texel, and 
 which, for magnificence of design, and for the 
 manner of execution, reflects high credit upon 
 the Dutch nation. 
 
 The communication between the Texel and 
 the port of Amsterdam has hitherto been through 
 the Zuyder Zee, wliich, always a difficult and 
 even dangerous na^■igation, owing to numerous 
 sand-banks, has latterly proved ahnost a fatal 
 
AMSTERDAM. — GRAND CANAL. 57 
 
 inconvenience to the commerce of tliis city. 
 This noble canal is an effort towards restoring 
 Amsterdam to all its former greatness, by 
 enabling it to compete in natural advantages 
 with the other commercial nations of Europe, 
 and although only commenced about three years 
 ago, is already in such a state of completion, 
 that ships of war, as well as merchants' ships, 
 can now, as I was informed, sail direct out of 
 the Texel, over this inland navigation into the 
 very town of Amsterdam. The lock into the 
 harbour is, of course, upon an immense scale, 
 and exhibits a beautiful specimen of workman- 
 ship, both in the masonry and the carpentry. 
 This, and the lock into the Texel, as I was also 
 informed, are the only two locks upon the whole 
 line. The canal, requiring to be continued into 
 the deep water of the harbour, was obliged to 
 be carried out for some distance on artificial 
 ground, supported between two large dykes or 
 banks. But this was a difficulty to which the 
 Dutch are accustomed, and one which they well 
 know how to overcome. Already this part of 
 the work, though yet unfinished, seemed to defy 
 the utmost power of the winds and waves. The 
 workmen being now occupied in raising these 
 banks still higher above the water's reach, afford- 
 ed me an op])ortunity of observing the mode of 
 the proceeding, which is simply this : the side 
 
58 AMSTERDAM. GRAND CANAL. 
 
 next to the water presents a smooth and regular 
 basket-work of strong oziers, strengthened at 
 near intervals by powerful withy stakes ; within 
 this framework are laid, in a horizontal direction, 
 large bundles of green oziers, as closely as they 
 can be })acked together, and a slight quantity 
 of mould being thrown in, just sufficient to fill 
 up the interstices, another range of similar bun- 
 dles is placed transversely with the last, and over 
 this is laid a thin layer of mould well trodden 
 down, and thus the work proceeds narrowing to 
 the top, where the whole is well secured by a 
 strong covering of clay. Thus the bank soon 
 becomes a mass impenetrable by air or water. 
 
 I anticipated this second digression, but per- 
 haps the interest of the subject may be a suffi- 
 cient apology. But again to proceed. After 
 satisfying my curiosity wdth these observations, 
 I mounted to the top of a high protecting bank, 
 running parallel witli tlie towing-path, where, 
 pursuing my way tor some distance, I enjoyed 
 at tlie same time an extensive view over the sur- 
 rounchng country. From hence the eye ranges 
 over a wide and swampy tract, apparently only 
 just above the level of the surrounding water. 
 Ships, masts, and scattered habitations are seen 
 in all directions ; and afar off) forming a ciuious 
 feature in the scene, is an extraordinary con- 
 
SAARDAM. 59 
 
 course of windmills, which marks the situation 
 of the village of Saardam. 
 
 This is the village so renowned in modern 
 history, as the place where Peter the Great, in 
 disguise, entered into the service of a common 
 shipwright, for the purpose of learning the art 
 of ship-building. The little wooden hut is still 
 shewn, where the czar of all the Russias resided 
 during the period of his apprenticeship. 
 
 Saardam, however, now chiefly owes its im- 
 portance to its numerous mills, used for various 
 purposes, but chiefly for sawing timber. All 
 these mills are turned by wind, and the number 
 (said to be between two and three thousand) as 
 may be supposed, presents a curious sight, and 
 one which would certainly have confounded the 
 valorous Don Quixote himself, had fate led him 
 in quest of adventures into these distant parts. 
 
 Having arrived at a little village on the bank 
 of the canal, we hired a strange looking sort of 
 vehicle, but drawn by a pair of good strong 
 horses, to convey us to Brock. 
 
 It may not be amiss to apprize the reader that 
 this is a little village so remarkable foi' the neat- 
 
60 BROCK. 
 
 ness of its appearance, as probably to be unique 
 throughout the world. 
 
 The name, according to my companion, well 
 skilled in the Dutch language, seems to be a 
 corruption from Broekachtig, a Dutch word, sig- 
 nifying marecageux, or marshy, probably de- 
 scriptive of the original appearance of the spot on 
 which this whimsical settlement stands. 
 
 Remarkable as are the Dutch for the cleanli- 
 ness of their dwellings, this village, even amongst 
 themselves, is considered as a curiosity, and, in 
 fact, it is nothing short of the burlesque. 
 
 On our arrival we put up our carriage at the 
 little inn, and, after a slight refreshment, we set 
 out to take oiu' view. 
 
 At the entrance into the village is posted up 
 the ancient lex scripta, requiring that every 
 rider, on passing through, should dismount and 
 lead the animal by its nose ; and that no person 
 should smoke in any part of the village without 
 a guard over the ball of the pipe, in order to pre- 
 vent the ashes from falling out, on pain of for- 
 feiture of the })ipe in question. 
 
BROCK. 61 
 
 Such is the purport of the public notice at the 
 entrance into this Httle miniature town, but being 
 written in the Dutch language, I was indebted 
 to my companion for the translation. These and 
 many other similar regulations are, as I was in- 
 formed, still scrupulously observed by the inha- 
 bitants. Not a cat or a dog is to be seen loose 
 in the village ; and certainly, during my visit 
 here, I did not see one tobacco-pipe without the 
 required guard, and I may almost venture to 
 say, that I saw as many tobacco-pipes as male 
 inhabitants. 
 
 With respect to the situation of this village, 
 it is built partly round the banks of a small cir- 
 cular lake ; but these are the residences of the 
 wealthier inhabitants, and are ornamented in the 
 highestDutch fashion, with plenty ofgreen,w]nte, 
 and yellow paint, the favourite colours in the exte- 
 rior of all Dutch houses. The whole appearance 
 of these buildings bespeaks the most minute at- 
 tention to neatness ; the windows are of unsullied 
 brightness ; every thing has a shining air of 
 freshness ; and the stranger looks in vain for a 
 grain of dirt, or a particle of dust, for these are 
 scarcely to be found upon the ground. 
 
 The houses which form the town are small, 
 low, and detached buildings, in perfect Dutch 
 
62 BROCK. 
 
 style, and the streets, (if streets they can be 
 called, for the houses are generally built on one 
 side of the road only,) running in serpentine 
 lines, and being paved in mosaic work, with 
 various-coloured bricks, small round pebbles, or 
 pounded shells, the wliole effect is the most ex- 
 quisitely neat that can be imagined. 
 
 Along one side of most of these little streets 
 runs a small stream, in a channel neatly lined 
 with brick on both sides, and supplied with clear 
 water from the lake. Tlie numerous little bridges 
 consequently required afford plenty of opportu- 
 nities to these natty people for exhibiting their 
 taste* in fanciful devices, and in the intermixture 
 of bricrht colours. 
 
 There is also a little spot of a few yards 
 square, which I suppose may be called the pub- 
 lic garden, and where the inhabitants of this 
 little colony have exercised their taste and inge- 
 nuity over nature, by turning every small tree 
 and shrub into some green monster of earth, 
 air, or water. 
 
 Observing that the shutters to the front win- 
 dows of most of the better sort of houses were 
 generally closed, I endeavoured to ascertain the 
 cause ; but I could learn no other reason, than 
 
BROCK. 
 
 63 
 
 tliat it was a practice in general use, for the pur- 
 pose of excluding dust and dirt. These shutters, 
 however, although in the open air, are kept in a 
 high state of polish, and I observed, in some 
 cases, are richly ornamented. On gay occasions 
 tliey are thrown open. 
 
 But there is another custom here which, for 
 its singularity, deserves particular notice. Almost 
 every house in the village has two entrance doors ; 
 one is the common and usual entrance, the other 
 is opened only on two occasions : one to let in 
 the bride and bridegroom after the celebration 
 of the marriage ceremony, the otlier to let-them 
 out on their way to their last home ; a somewhat 
 unsentimental idea for the bride, on crossing for 
 the first time the tlu'eshold of her new resi- 
 dence, but quite characteristic of this phlegmatic 
 people. This door, opening to mark the two 
 most important incidents to which human life is 
 subject, is generally of a black colour, suitable 
 to the solemnity of the purpose, and from the 
 glossy brightness which it presents, is no doubt 
 an object of the housewife's daily and peculiar 
 care. This door is also carved with ornamental 
 designs, apparently according to the wealth or 
 consequence of the owner, but it is placed high 
 from the ground, without any step, and without 
 
64 BROCK. 
 
 either of those usual appendages of handle or 
 knocker. 
 
 In this village it is no easy matter for a stran- 
 ger to gain admittance into any of the houses; 
 but as I was desirous of seeing a specimen of 
 the interior of one, I knocked at a door, and my 
 companion was thus necessarily made the spokes- 
 man. 
 
 There was certainly no very inviting counte- 
 nance in the female who came to ask our plea- 
 sure ; but whilst my friend was explaining the 
 curiosity of two strangers, I saw there was no 
 positive refusal on the part of the woman to gra- 
 tify it, and I therefore made bold to enter, a 
 movement which had the effect only of shorten- 
 ing our preliminary conversation. 
 
 On entering, we found a young family seated 
 round the dinner-table, before a large bowl of 
 potatoes and porridge, and exhibiting all the 
 cleanliness and comfort which might have been 
 expected. If women in general be not suscepti- 
 ble of flattery, this good woman was an exception 
 to the general rule ; for taking care to manifest all 
 the admiration which I really felt at the sur})riz- 
 ing neatness of every thing around, and not for- 
 
BROCK. A DUTCH DAIRY. 65 
 
 getting to admire the nice appearance of her 
 children, (altliough the distressing sight of one 
 poor Httle girl, far gone in a decline, drew from 
 me unfeigned expressions of pity,) I succeeded 
 in dispelling something like a feeling of displea- 
 sure at the abruptness of our entry, and we were 
 now shewn about with all the readiness and good- 
 nature which would have welcomed expected 
 visitors. 
 
 It happened that this house was used for the 
 double purpose of a dairy and a residence, and 
 I had thus an opportunity of seeing the process 
 of cheese-making in this country ; but to me 
 the most interesting part of the sight was the 
 very great neatness and cleanliness observable 
 throughout. 
 
 The cheeses are first squeezed in linen cloths, 
 and then placed in wooden moulds to receive the 
 rounded form peculiar to Dutch cheeses. After 
 having remained a sufficient length of time in 
 the frames to receive the rounded: shape, they 
 are arranged on little shelves, and there left to 
 harden. The room appropriated for this purpose 
 was now filled with carefully-arranged rows of 
 these round cheeses, in all the different stages 
 towards maturity, previously to being stowed 
 away as fit for market. 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
66 MONNIKENDAM. 
 
 It is a curious fact wortli mentioning, tliat this 
 cheese-room immediately adjoined the cow-house, 
 which contained between fifteen and twenty 
 stalls ; and as better calculated to convey an idea 
 of neatness, than any description which I could 
 give, I will inform the reader that it was in tliis 
 cow-house the family dinner-table was spread out 
 before a comfortable looking hearth, and that 
 here the family chiefly resided, the little adjoin- 
 ing parlour being preserved more for shew than 
 use. 
 
 Having satisfied our curiosity, and whilst my 
 fellow-traveller was interpreting our thanks to 
 the good woman of the house, I went up to the 
 little party still seated round the dinner-table, 
 (though occupied more in gazing than eating,) 
 and found means of making myself intelligible 
 to each of them ; after w^hich we took our leave, 
 all parties being apparently well pleased with 
 the visit. 
 
 We now returned to the inn where we had left 
 our vehicle, but it was too late to extend our 
 excursion much further ; and after visiting the 
 little village of Monnikendam, for the purpose 
 of viewing the neighbouring shores of the 
 Zuyder Zee, and the stupendous barriers which 
 enclose that great body of water, (but concern- 
 
AMSTERDAM. 67 
 
 ing wliich I must suspend any particular notice 
 for a more favourable opportunity,) we returned 
 to the little village where we had first taken our 
 carriage, and finding the trekschuyt, or (accord- 
 ing to the Dutch spelling of this barbarous 
 word) the trekjagt, just setting out for Amster- 
 dam, we stepped on board. Presently a heavy 
 rain commenced, and drove all the passengers in 
 one large crowd into the common cabin, where 
 I was huddled up for above an hour, amidst as 
 great variety of company as it ever fell to my 
 lot to be mixed up with. But the scene was 
 quite new to me, and there was plenty of amuse- 
 ment in the variety ; for this was now the period 
 of the grand annual fair at Amsterdam, to which 
 city the people were crowding from all parts of 
 the country, decked out in their holiday dresses 
 and gayest ornaments. Amongst our party were 
 several inhabitants of the distant province of 
 East Friesland, and the variety of costume, with 
 the singularity of the ornaments of the females, 
 were not the least amusing part of this novel and 
 bustling scene. 
 
 It was late when we reached Amsterdam, and 
 the rain continued to pour down in torrents. 
 Seeing no chance of escaping a wetting, we 
 quietly pursued our way towards the inn, where 
 
 F 2 
 
68 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 we arrived as thoroughly drenched as if we had 
 been dragged through the canals. 
 
 An additional glass or two of" brandiwijn, fol- 
 lowed by a good supper, prevented, probably, 
 any ill consequences from this wetting ; but, 
 however, I could not hide from myself that my 
 health was already sensibly affected by my resi- 
 dence in this city, and as I was to be deprived 
 of my travelling companion to-morrow morning, 
 I now came to the determination that after I had 
 blunted the edge of curiosity, the sooner I quit- 
 ted Amsterdam the better. 
 
 Thursday^ Sept. 13. After taking leave of 
 my companion early this morning, I sallied forth 
 with a valet de place, and spent the whole of the 
 day in traversing Amsterdam in all directions, 
 and in \dewing such of the sights of particular 
 interest as happened to fall in my way. These, 
 however, are too numerous to be particularized, 
 and I shall therefore only notice a few of 
 those which struck me as being most worthy of 
 remark. 
 
 With respect to the situation and form of this 
 city, towards the end of the day I had obtained 
 a general and pretty correct notion. 
 
AMSTERDAM. BRIDGES. 69 
 
 Amsterdain stands on the conflux of the two 
 fine rivers, the Y and the Amstel. The Amstel, 
 as soon as it enters the city, separates into two 
 streams, from which branch off innumerable 
 canals, communicating with each other and with 
 the Y, and intersecting ahnost every street. 
 
 The form of this city is semicircular, and is 
 crossed breadth-wise by five principal canals, 
 running nearly in parallel lines with each other. 
 Into these run cross-canals, communicating with 
 every part of the town. 
 
 As to the bridges, these are so numerous as 
 to appear countless ; but the principal, and the 
 one which struck me as most deserving of notice, 
 is the great bridge over the Amstel. The con- 
 trivance of the common bridges, however, which 
 permits the passage of ships and barges with the 
 masts up, much pleased me, and I am surprized 
 that this plan is not more generally adopted in 
 other countries. 
 
 It is simply this. — The bridge is separated 
 across the centre. Over the entrance at each 
 end is raised a powerfid cross beam, supported 
 on two strong uprights. On the top of these 
 uprights is fixed a strong horizontal beam, at 
 
 F 3 
 
70 - AMSTERDAM. BRIDGES. 
 
 one end of each of which is an iron chain fas- 
 tened to each side of the bridge. These hori- 
 zontal beams are strengthened by heavy wood- 
 work, so as to give the preponderating weight 
 at the other extremity where the power is wanted; 
 consequently, when the bridge is down, these 
 horizontal beams are directed npwards, but from 
 each end hangs a small piece of iron chain, by 
 which a man, or even a boy, by laying hold of 
 and pulling downwards, uplifts the bridge, and 
 this pendant chain being secured by means of 
 an iron hook and ring at each side, the bridge 
 remains suspended. After the vessel has passed, 
 the chain is unhooked, but the bridge not falling 
 into its place by its own weight, it is the amuse- 
 ment of the collected passengers to run up the 
 steep declivity, and thus to give the required 
 preponderance, which, however, a man's weight 
 is sufficient to effect. The two halves of the 
 bridge thus meeting, hook into each other, and 
 an iron bar is then let down, which being fas- 
 tened by a ring, the whole is tightly secured. 
 This operation, including the time required for 
 the passage of the barge, occupies scarcely three 
 minutes. 
 
 If the bridge be narrow, the whole is thus 
 lifted up at once, and the frame-work at one 
 side only is required. 
 
AMSTERDAM. STREETS. WORKHOUSE. 7^ 
 
 This, I am aware, is in principle the old- 
 fashioned draw-bridge, but the simplicity of its 
 adaptation to large bridges, to which it is evi- 
 dently as well suited as to small ones, induced 
 me thus particularly to notice it. 
 
 On the whole, the streets and houses of this 
 city are formed more for the convenience of 
 trade than for effect in appearance. But there 
 are several streets extremely handsome, such 
 as Keysers gragt, Heere gragt. Prince gragt, 
 (Emperor street, Lord street, and Princes street,) 
 and some others, where a fine row of stately 
 trees lines each side of the canal, and the 
 houses are of princely magnificence. 
 
 Amongst other sights of to-day I must men- 
 tion the workhouse. This is a very extensive 
 building, situated within the suburbs, and, with 
 regard to the plan upon which it is conducted, 
 it is perhaps without a parallel ; for this estab- 
 lishment, whilst it affords a comfortable refuge 
 for the poor, is a school of industry for the 
 idle, and a house of correction for the vicious. 
 But the correctional part is confined to small 
 oiiences, and some of these are of a nature 
 scarcely cognizable by other governments. In 
 short, this institution is a receptacle for almost 
 all classes and descriptions of persons, except- 
 
 F 4- 
 
72 AMSTERDAM. WORKHOUSE. 
 
 ing only the more serious offenders. Here the 
 infirm mendicant finds a comfortable home, and 
 the more able-bodied vagrant is sheltered, fed, 
 clothed, and put to work. Here the wife is 
 placed, at the instance of the husband, for any 
 conduct unbecoming a good housewife ; and 
 here also the husband is placed by the wife for 
 any misconduct on his part. But, as a domestic 
 convenience, this establishment is more used by 
 parents who place their children here for misbe- 
 haviour, where they are kept until satisfactory 
 symptoms are manifested of their improvement. 
 
 All those, however, who become resident 
 members of this institution, whether high or 
 low, are subjected to the disciphne of the house, 
 and such as are able to work are kept to some 
 useful employment. 
 
 The first process on the entrance of a new 
 member, is to lead him or her to a bath, where 
 the person entering is stript, washed, and habited 
 in costume, which, for the male part of the 
 community, consists of a jacket, waistcoat, and 
 trowsers, made out of a very coarse descri})tion 
 of sackcloth, manufactured in this establishment ; 
 and, for the female, a high gown of the same 
 coarse material. Being now duly elected, the 
 new member is put to labour according to the 
 
AMSTERDAM. WORKHOUSE. 7^ 
 
 nature of the offence committed, the principal 
 employments being those of beating hemp, pick- 
 ing flax, carcUng, spinning, weaving, &c. 
 
 The young ladies of the higher classes of 
 society who are entered here for undutiful be- 
 haviour, or other naughtinesses, as their parents 
 may choose to term them, are placed to lighter 
 works in a separate part of the establishment, 
 and are not permitted to be seen by strangers. 
 This ward in particular I was therefore the most 
 desu'ous of visiting ; but no persuasion, or even 
 bribery, could prevail. There is also another 
 division for the better sort of young gentlemen, 
 who here undergo temporary confinement for 
 slight offences. 
 
 But the common herd, and the incorrigibles, 
 are kept together at work in two immense rooms, 
 one being for the men, and the other for the 
 w^omen. 
 
 Accompanied by the superintendant of the 
 establishment, I walked through these spacious 
 apartments. The great number of persons ha- 
 bited in the same singular dress, the buz and 
 rattle of the numerous machines in motion, tlie 
 sight of so many liuman beings reduced to a 
 state of degradation, and the variety of coun- 
 
74' AMSTERDAM. — WORKHOUSE. 
 
 tenances, in some of which grief and shame 
 were as strongly marked, as vice and effrontery 
 in others, formed altogether a spectacle calcu- 
 lated to excite in the mind of one unused to 
 scenes like this, feelings of a very varied nature. 
 The person who attended me was ready in an- 
 swering all my enquiries, and as we passed along 
 he pointed out to me those delinquents whose 
 cases or histories were remarkable. Amongst 
 these there was one young man in particular, 
 apparently about twenty-five years of age, whom, 
 for a few minutes, I stopped to look upon and 
 to pity. He w^as occupied in manufacturing the 
 coarse sort of cloth in which he w^as clothed, 
 but, unlike those around him, who were gazing 
 at the stranger, the head of this unfortunate was 
 bent steadily over his work, nor did I observe 
 that his eye was once raised towards me. Yet I 
 could just sufficiently distinguish the down-cast 
 face, to read in the wan cheek and sunken eye, 
 the abject wretchedness of the mind. 
 
 My attendant informed me, that this was the 
 son of highly respectable parents of this city, 
 and that his friends had lately placed him here 
 as a cure for many bad habits. 
 
 Proceeding down the room, my attendant 
 pointed out to me, amongst others, a remarkably 
 
AMSTERDAM. WORKHOUSE. '^5 
 
 fine looking lad, oii a lively and intelligent coun- 
 tenance, who, although apparently not more than 
 fourteen years of age, had been shut up in this 
 receptacle of misery and vice for upwards of 
 three years, during which time his sole employ- 
 ment had been that of picking and spinning 
 flax. The parents of this unfortunate boy, who 
 were also termed respectable persons, had in- 
 sisted upon his being detained in this abode as 
 
 an incorrigible thief. Mistaken parents ! and 
 
 ill-judging government ! 
 
 Long habit seemed to have accustomed this 
 poor youth to his situation. He appeared to 
 be fidl of fini and tricks, and as the superin- 
 tendant, passing by, patted him on the head, 
 he slyly held out his hand, (which is against 
 rule,) and with the most arch countenance, in 
 an under-tone of voice, and in tlie French lan- 
 guage, begged a few copper coin of the kind 
 stranger. Had Sterne happened to have been 
 present, this was a scene to have called forth 
 all his sympathy — with him nature would have 
 over-ruled the rule of the establishment — how 
 could it be otherwise with me ? 
 
 I next visited the room appropriated to the 
 females. All were engaged at their respective 
 works ; but there was more cflrontery in their 
 
76 AMSTERDAM. WORKHOUSE. 
 
 looks and manners than amongst the men. Here 
 vice appeared more disgusting, and I was glad 
 to quit the scene. 
 
 At present the number of persons contained 
 within these walls was considered very small, 
 being only about five hundred, including the 
 infirm mendicants, and the young ladies and 
 gentlemen of respectable families placed here 
 temporarily for their improvement ! 
 
 If, however, there be much in the plan of 
 this establishment which is objectionable, there 
 is much also which is commendable. The prin- 
 ciple of annexing useful occupation to the loss 
 of liberty is highly judicious, and furnishes a 
 good example to many countries. The M'hole 
 of the interior arrangement is also admirable, 
 and well deserving tlie particular notice of 
 foreigners. The attention to 'the cleanliness 
 and health of the persons under the protection 
 of this institution may astonish even the English 
 visitor. He may even in these respects observe 
 many things worthy of being recollected on liis 
 return to his own country, and he may here also 
 see practically illustrated the important fact, 
 that workliouses need not be made the recepta- 
 cles for idleness. 
 
AMSTERDAM STADT-HOUSE. 77 
 
 The day's work is distributed out to each in- 
 dividual in the morning, and idleness is punished 
 by abstinence. 
 
 Two hours of the day are allotted to air and 
 exercise in an adjoining court-yard ; and this is 
 a regulation, compliance with which is not dis- 
 cretionary but enforced. 
 
 Several of the private rooms of this institution 
 are hung round with portraits of some of the 
 early burgomasters of the city, painted by Rem- 
 brandt, in his best style, and which are parti- 
 cularly well deser\dng the attention of stran- 
 gers. 
 
 The next object of my curiosity w^as the Pa- 
 lace, lately the residence of Louis Buonaparte. 
 This was originally the Stadt-house, and it is 
 certainly a magnificent and substantial struc- 
 ture, being a square stone building, upon a very 
 large scale. With respect to elegance in ex- 
 terior design, there is, in my opinion, very little 
 pretension, but in the interior there is much to 
 admire in the size of some of the state-rooms, 
 the splendour of the decorations, and the pro- 
 fusion of fine marble. The grand saloon and 
 the presence-chamber, for magnitude and mag- 
 nificence, are perhaps unequalled in any palace 
 
78 AMSTERDAM. MUSEUM. 
 
 throughout Europe. The paintings are also 
 numerous, and some of" tliem are liighly and 
 justly esteemed. In short, the stranger will 
 here find very many interesting objects well de- 
 serving his attention ; but, as these are of a na- 
 ture better fittinc; to be seen than described, I 
 will avoid entering into particulars. The niuii- 
 ber of piles upon wlucli this building is said to 
 be erected, is calculated to excite astonishment. 
 What this number is I will not pretend to quote 
 accLU'ately from memory, though, as my recol- 
 lection serves me, it is nearer 14 than 13,000; 
 nor does this sound as very improbable when 
 the magnitude of the structure is considered. 
 It presents nearly the figure of a square, and the 
 measurement is stated to be, in length, between 
 280 and 290 feet, in depth between 250 and 
 260 feet, and in height about 120 feet. In the 
 architectural design, however, there is this great 
 prominent defect, — tlie want of a principal front 
 entrance. 
 
 I next visited the museum belonging to this 
 city, which possesses an extensive and most 
 valuable collection of paintings. Here the con- 
 noisseurs will find gratification to their heart's con- 
 tent; but, however, tliinkingas I do, that criticisms 
 upon pictures are generally uninteresting, out 
 of all this valuable collection of paintings, I will 
 
AMSTERDAM. FELIX MERITIS. 79 
 
 only mention two ; one is, " The Night Watcli,** 
 by Rembrandt, which appeared to me the hap- 
 piest specimen I had ever seen of this great ar- 
 tist's striking and pecuUar style ; and the other 
 is, " The School by Candle-light," by Gerard 
 Douw. The effect of this picture, which is 
 placed in a darkened corner of the room, is 
 truly astonishing, for it seems to throw a can- 
 dle-light around, and it may really be said to re- 
 quire the aid of another sense than that of sight 
 to discover the deception. 
 
 Amongst the numerous public establishments 
 in this city connected with literature and gene- 
 ral science, there is one which struck me, as 
 particularly liberal and extensive in its design. 
 This is the society called " Felix Mentis ;" a 
 modern institution, having been established 
 within the last forty or fifty years ; but in which 
 are already enrolled the names of almost all the 
 first characters for rank and talent in the coun- 
 try. This society is divided into five classes : 
 The first is directed to agriculture, commerce, 
 and manufactures ; the second to mathematics 
 and natural philosophy ; the third to painting, 
 sculpture, and architecture; the fourth to music, 
 and the fifth to general literature. Each class 
 has its separate museum, library, and hall of 
 assembly, and the rules and regulations of each 
 
80 AMSTERDAM. CHURCHES. 
 
 department are as liberal as the objects are en- 
 larg-ed. The building itself is neat and com- 
 modious, and in a central and convenient part 
 of the town. 
 
 In the evening I went to the French theatre ; 
 but the house is gloomy and mean in its appear- 
 ance ; the performance was indifferent, and the 
 company small. 
 
 Friday, Sept. 14. The whole of to-day, like 
 yesterday, was occupied in seeing sights. 
 
 I looked into many of the churches, but the 
 interior of most of them is rambling and shabby, 
 possessing nothing of that neatness and appro- 
 priate elegance so generally found in the 
 churches of the Netherlands, and the exterior 
 has little claim to architectural beauty of de- 
 sign. The old church, however, is worthy of 
 being visited by the stranger, if it be only to 
 cast a look upon the tomb of the great De Witt. 
 The pulpit also is worth noticing as a very deli- 
 cate piece of carved work in acacia wood. 
 
 I also visited what is called the New Churcli, 
 but principally to sec the handsome mausoleum 
 erected to Admiral de Ruyter. 
 
AMSTERDAM. RASP-HOUSE. 81 
 
 I shall pass over the great variety of sights 
 which I hastily inspected to-day, mentioning 
 only one peculiar to this city, called the Rasp- 
 house, or House of Correction ; another peni- 
 tential abode, well worthy of being visited by 
 the stranger. Although crowded with prisoners, 
 every attention is paid to their necessary com- 
 fort; and by not being permitted to be idle, they 
 are rendered, in some degree, useful to the pub- 
 lic, and their progress in vice is checked, at 
 least inasmuch as the opportunity of practice is 
 taken away. The stranger visiting this estab- 
 lishment, if he ask, will be told that cases are of 
 very frequent occurrence in which the habits 
 of orderly behaviour acquired in the Rasp- 
 house, are retained through life, and that many 
 who are forced within these walls as too dan- 
 gerous to be left at large, are sent forth into the 
 world qualified to become useful members of 
 society. 
 
 The Dutch government is still, as it long 
 has been, humanely sparing of the lives of its 
 subjects ; and to this may perhaps be attri- 
 buted the cause why the prisons of most of the 
 towns of Holland are filled, as is said to be 
 generally the case. But be it so, and Holland 
 has still this great boast to make, that, by milder 
 means than perhaps any otlier government of 
 
 VOL. I. G 
 
82 AMSTERDAM. RASP-HOUSE. 
 
 Europe, she, as effectually as any of them, and 
 more effectually tlian most of them, checks the 
 progress of crimes ; fortothe punishment of death, 
 which is inflicted only upon the most atrocious 
 criminals, she has rarely occasion to resort. 
 
 Idleness appears always to have been con- 
 sidered by this people as a crime, and one which 
 was formerly rather too severely punished, if we 
 may judge from a curious contrivance shewn in 
 a court-yard of this establishment. It is a con- 
 fined place, into which a stream of water en- 
 tered on one side, with a piunp on the otlier, so 
 that if the culprit did not incessantly work at 
 the pump, he must inevitably be drowned. 
 
 This device is said to have been made use of 
 formerly, but only towards those who were in- 
 corrigibly idle. It hardly need be said, that in 
 these days some other expedient is adopted for 
 discouraging idleness. 
 
 In the evening I went to the Dutcli tlieatre. 
 The representations were a comedy and a pan- 
 tomime, which last being without the aid of 
 language, I could best comprehend. This is 
 the principal theatre, but it is inelegant and 
 gloomy to an English eye. The company was 
 more numerous than at the French theatre ; yet 
 
AMSTERDAM. SPIEL-HOUSES. 83 
 
 it is evident that the drama is not a favorite 
 amusement with the Dutch. 
 
 After this entertainment was over, I looked 
 into several of those extraordinary establish- 
 ments, called spiel-houses, or musicos, which 
 swarm in this city as in most of the principal 
 towns of Holland, undoubtedly to the great dis- 
 grace of the whole nation. 
 
 The spiel-house is a licensed brothel of the 
 most vicious description. The unfortunate vic- 
 tims, here devoted to infamy, are seated on each 
 side of a large room, at one end of which are 
 some musicians, whose office it is to continue 
 playing through the greater part of the night. 
 Any wretch who chooses, may, by a nod, select 
 his partner for the dance, and for the night, and 
 the wretched girl has not even the privilege 
 which belongs to the most abandoned of her 
 sex, — the privilege of refusal ; for the keeper of 
 this haunt of iniquity has, by a signed agree- 
 ment, and an advance of money, acquired a 
 right of property in the person of the hapless 
 victim, which right is recognized even by the 
 police, until the debt be paid. But the power 
 of discharging this debt is effectually taken away, 
 and hope of escape is lost for ever ! Here, in 
 
 G 2 
 
84 AMSTERDAM. SPIEL-HOUSES. 
 
 this loathsome prison, repentance comes too late 
 to bring with it earthly aid; — the wretched fe- 
 male, if she meditate escape, sees herself aban- 
 doned by all mankind, even by the laws of her 
 own country ; — if she look forward to remain, 
 she anticipates the short period of her youtli, 
 her health, her beauty gone ; when, no longer 
 able to earn even the wages of sin, she sees 
 herself stripped of her tinselled finery, and 
 turned out into the world diseased, destitute, 
 and despised ! 
 
 Although these brothels pay a heavy contri- 
 bution to the government for the protection af- 
 forded, yet nothing is demanded for admission. 
 They are open to all who choose to enter ; but 
 the visitors to these haunts are expected to take 
 something in the way of wine or spirits, and 
 these being generally distributed as treats 
 amongst the females in advance upon the usual 
 retail price, a sufficient profit is thus derived. 
 
 Little curiosity as I have for prying into the 
 blemishes which darken the bright picture of 
 human life, I stepped out of my way to look 
 into these scenes of infamy, and I })aid the piice 
 in a glass of wine or spirits, or cup of coffee, liut 
 these were handed over to my valet de place, 
 who attended me ; and I returned to my inn 
 
AMSTERDAM. DOCK YARD. 85 
 
 less inclined than ever to gratify curiosity on 
 such occasions. 
 
 Saturday^ Sept. 15. This morning was princi- 
 pally devoted to the inspection of the dock-yard; 
 but there is little novelty here for the English 
 visitor. Tlie model-room, however, belonging 
 to this establishment, possesses some curious and 
 interesting objects. Here I saw" a model of the 
 machine called the cameau, or camel, which is a 
 contrivance for lifting large ships over the shoals 
 and sand-banks of the Zuyder Zee. 
 
 This machine is in principle very simple, and I 
 may therefore, perhaps, be enabled to explain it. 
 
 Two large w^ooden vessels filled with water, 
 and so formed as to receive the body of a ship, 
 are connected together by strong chains. These 
 vessels being sunk by the weight of water con- 
 tained in them, the ship to be lifted over the 
 shoal is brought between them. The water is 
 then pumped out, and the vessels rising by de- 
 grees fit themselves to each side of the ship's 
 body. As tlie water is thus drawn off, these 
 vessels, becoming more and more buoyant, con- 
 tinue to rise, and consequently to lift up the 
 ship, until the required height be gained for 
 passing over the shoal with safety. 
 
 G S 
 
86 AMSTERDAM. ZUYDER ZEE. 
 
 I was informed that the height thus capable 
 of being gained is as mucli as six or seven feet. 
 But liowever ingenious this simple device may be, 
 it is evident that practically it must be very in- 
 convenient; and soon all further occasion for this 
 contrivance will probably cease, in consequence 
 of the more favorable navigation now opened by 
 the great canal already mentioned. 
 
 Before quitting Amsterdam I must offer a few 
 remarks upon the Zuyder Zee, or, as in our 
 English tongue it may be called, the South Sea. 
 From the appearance of some of the islands 
 which almost shut up its entrance, these, in all 
 probability, were separated from the continent 
 at the same time when this great body of water 
 rushed in and overwhelmed the neio-hbourino- 
 country ; and there is also every reason to be- 
 lieve that at that time the whole of tliis part of 
 Holland was nothing better than a morass. 
 
 Tliis inland sea is satisfactorily ascertained to 
 have extended its limits very considerably since 
 the time of the Romans, and it now, as is well 
 known, covers an immense tract of country be- 
 tween the provinces of Friesland, Overyssel, 
 Guelderland, and Nortli Holland. What, there- 
 fore, must have been the difficulties in opposing 
 the still further progress of this enormous bodv 
 
AMSTERDAM. DYKES. 8^ 
 
 of water might be imagined, even if the history 
 of this extraordinary country did not sufficiently 
 bear record. 
 
 This sUght introduction may serve to lead the 
 mind of the reader to the contemplation of the 
 difficulties which must have been encountered 
 and overcome before the accomplishment of this 
 stupendous undertaking. As the work of hu- 
 man beings, the dykes which pen up this inland 
 sea must fill the mind of the beholder with won- 
 der approaching to incredulity. 
 
 Tracing with the eye this large expanse of 
 water, it seems as if the ships were sailing high 
 above the level of the surrounding land, and 
 as if the whole neighbouring country were de- 
 pendant for its safety upon this artificial barrier, 
 in which if a breach were made in the direction 
 of Amsterdam, in a few minutes no vestige 
 would remain of that great city, except perhaps 
 its steeples and its towers. 
 
 A great part of Holland, as it is calculated, is 
 between twenty and forty feet below high water 
 mark on the surrounding coast ; but astonishing 
 and fearful as this fact may appear, the natives 
 seem to live in perfect confidence of their 
 security. 
 
 G 4 
 
88 AMSTERDAM. DYKES. 
 
 The care and management of the dykes being 
 a subject of the first moment to the country, are 
 therefore under the immediate protection of 
 government; and of all the servants of the state, 
 le ministre des digues is undoubtedly the most 
 responsible. From him issue all orders and 
 directions respecting the management and su- 
 perintendance of the main dykes, and him the 
 nation holds accountable for any disastrous con- 
 sequences attending a breach in these bulwarks 
 of the country. 
 
 Rescued from the waters, as Holland may 
 be said to have been, by the laborious perse- 
 verance of Dutchmen, (and as is even expressed 
 by the derivation of the word " hoi," signifying, 
 in the Dutch language, a hole), to retain what has 
 been thus recovered, seems to require all that 
 steady industry which forms one of the strongest 
 characteristics of this people. It seems as if na- 
 ture had adapted the character and constitution 
 of Hollanders to the peculiar situation of their 
 country, and as if they alone were fit to be its 
 masters* 
 
 Talking upon this subject with a very intelli- 
 gent gentleman of Amsterdam, he informed me, 
 that during the time this country was in the 
 hands of the French, the inundations throughout 
 Holland were more frequent and more disastrous 
 
AMSTERDAM. DYKES. 89 
 
 than had been recorded since the difficulties of 
 the early times ; and he assured me, that it was 
 not only his opinion, but an opinion very general 
 in the country, that had the French continued 
 many years longer in the occupation of Holland, 
 a great part of the kingdom would have been lost. 
 The expence of supporting the dykes, as may be 
 supposed, forms one of the heaviest items in the 
 expenditure of the nation. The sum annually 
 raised for this purpose is enormous ; but it is a 
 tax w^iich seems to be paid with the least unwil- 
 lingness by the people. 
 
 With respect to the formation of the dykes, 
 it is similar to the process already described in 
 the formation of the banks of the great canal 
 into the harbour of Amsterdam ; the dimensions 
 of the work, of course, varying according to the 
 strength required. 
 
 In situations where great precautions are ne- 
 cessary, there is usually a second dyke, leaving 
 a space or channel between the two, so that if 
 the water should burst or overflow the outer em- 
 bankment, the inner one may stop for a time an 
 extension of the mischief Withys, and a very 
 strong species of reed, are generally encouraged 
 on the side of the d\ ke towards the sea or river, 
 and these, catching tlie sand or mud, soon accu- 
 
90 AMSTERDAM TO HAARLEM. 
 
 miilate a mass which adds much to the stabiUty 
 of the whole. 
 
 I had now pretty well satisfied my curiosity, 
 and although I could have wished to have spent 
 another day or two in Amsterdam, yet the 
 noisome vapour from the canals had already 
 so disagreeably aifected me, that I thought it 
 prudent to take my immediate departure. I 
 therefore returned to the inn, strapped up my 
 portmanteaus, and set out in a nondescript sort 
 of vehicle to join the trekschuyt which starts for 
 Haarlem at mid-day. In the mean time, whilst 
 on my way, it may not be amiss to give a short 
 description of my vehicle, for it is apt to strike 
 the stranger as something unusual and ludicrous 
 in its appearance. 
 
 It is a machine between a traineau and a 
 fiacre, or a sledge and a hackney-coach, and 
 partaking of both, being in precise resemblance 
 with the body of one of our hackney-coaches, 
 suspended by leathern straps, upon one of those 
 simple little contrivances of our London brewers 
 for conveying a single cask or two of beer to 
 some pressing customer, who cannot Avait for 
 the periodical visit of the slow and ponderous 
 dray. This Amsterdam contrivance is also 
 
AMSTERDAM TO HAARLEM. Ql 
 
 drawn by one horse ; but the driver docs not 
 himself enjoy the luxury of riding. With the 
 reins in one hand, and in the other a piece of 
 thick rope attached to a cord, (the thick part 
 of which is every now and then thrown into 
 the canal, and afterwards dexterously brouglit 
 under the sledge to cool tlie heated iron), this 
 humble Jarvie trots alongside his steed, and 
 apparently with the same indifference to wet 
 and dirt. 
 
 Ridiculous as is the appearance of this vehicle, 
 it is said to be encouraged by the magistrates 
 in preference to wheel-carriages, as being less 
 likely to shake the pile foundation of the city. 
 Wheel-carriages, however, are in use here, but 
 these are not numerous. 
 
 At twelve o'clock I was seated in the passage- 
 boat for Haarlem, and as the clock ceased 
 striking we were in motion, so habitual is 
 punctuality with these people in all the ordinary 
 transactions of their lives. 
 
 The country through which the canal runs, 
 is very low and flat, and resembles a rich water 
 meadow ; but on approaching the large lake, 
 called the Meer of Haarlem, the whole face of 
 
92 HAARLEM MEER. 
 
 the country })resents one extensive sheet of 
 water. 
 
 The appearance of the canal here is very 
 I'emarkable, for close on one side stretclies 
 the arm of the Ziiyder Zee, or, more correctly 
 called, the River Y; and on the other side is the 
 vast expansive meer of Haarlem ; so that the 
 canal itself looks as if supported between two 
 banks rising from the sea, and the road on the 
 top of the dyke looks like a path amidst the 
 ocean. 
 
 This meer or lake covers a great tract of 
 country between Leyden, Haarlem, and Am- 
 sterdam. From my own observation, with such 
 vague information as I could collect, the great- 
 est breadth is about fourteen English miles, 
 and the length about seventeen miles. It is 
 navigable over its whole extent but owing to 
 its exposed situation, it is so liable to sudden 
 squalls, tliat for the purpose of navigation it is 
 little used, and vessels from Leyden to Amster- 
 dam generally prefer the much longer but safer 
 course by the canal. 
 
 In one part of the line tlie river Y approaches 
 so nearly to this meer, tliat the junction is pre- 
 
HAARLEM. 93 
 
 vented only by a single dyke and a sluice. 
 This sluice, however, is upon a stupendous 
 scale, and of prodigious strength, as may be 
 supposed from its successful resistance against 
 the boisterous element whicli lashes it on both 
 sides. 
 
 I was informed here, though I know not 
 whether upon good authority, that the idea has 
 long been entertained by the persevering na- 
 tives, of reclaiming the vast tract of land now 
 covered by Haarlem meer, and that probably 
 their operations would before long commence. 
 
 From what I could learn, it is proposed to 
 accomplish this extraordinary undertaking gra- 
 dually, by the usual mode of erecting dykes, 
 and of throwing the water over these, by means 
 of windmills, until the whole of the water be 
 thus drawn off. 
 
 I reached Haarlem sufficiently early in the 
 afternoon to have at my disposal a few hours 
 for looking about. This, like most of the Dutch 
 towns, is remarkably neat, and possesses several 
 handsome streets and canals, ornamented on 
 each side, after the usual fashion, with rows of 
 trees. In the principal square or place, is a co- 
 lossal statue of Koster, erected by his towns- 
 
94 HAARLEM. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 people, to commemorate the inventor of the art 
 of printing, which, Hke many other useful inven- 
 tions, has several claimants for the honor. 
 
 The trade of Haarlem was formerly very 
 considerable, but it is now much reduced ; and 
 its population is reckoned at less than one-half 
 of what it was one hundred and fifty years ago. 
 The trade then consisted, as it now does, princi- 
 pally in the manufacture and bleaching of linen, 
 the water of the meer of Haarlem being sup- 
 posed to possess some peculiar bleaching pro- 
 perty. 
 
 Flowers, and tulips in particular, when in for- 
 mer days these articles were in great request, 
 were also a considerable source of trade and 
 profit to this town, which always stood in high 
 repute for these productions. But the Jiora- 
 mania has now so much subsided, that the trade 
 in tulips is at present too inconsiderable to de- 
 serve mention. 
 
 The cathedral is, in my opinion, more remark- 
 able for its size than for its beauty; and it pro- 
 bably derives its celebrity cliiefly from its organ, 
 which is universally admitted to be the finest in 
 the world. 
 
HAARLEM. ORGAN. 95 
 
 To hear this organ played upon is, of course, 
 one of the principal objects of curiosity for 
 every visitor to Haarlem ; yet, strange to say, 
 I heard it not. The price asked by the organ- 
 ist for gratifying my curiosity in this respect, 
 was fourteen florins; and, piqued at the exorbi- 
 tance of the demand, I made an offer of the 
 moiety, as the uttermost extent of my extrava- 
 gance. But the answer was, that this was the 
 established charge, and that nothing less would 
 be taken ; and as I had declared par mille dia- 
 bles, that I would not encourage such an impo- 
 sition, we separated mutually dissatisfied. 
 
 A walk, however, in the beautiful wood ad- 
 joining the town, restored me to better temper, 
 and returning to my inn to supper, I retired to 
 bed in good time, and in very good humour, 
 excepting when the organ occasionally crossed 
 my recollection, which induced me to deter- 
 mine upon quitting Haarlem to-morrow morning. 
 Soon after this consoling determination was 
 made, I fell into a comfortable sleep, which 
 continued without interruption until 
 
 Sunday y Sept. 16, five o'clock in the morn- 
 ins:. In another hour I was seated in the trek- 
 schuyt, for Leyden. When arrived within a 
 short distance of the town, I was reminded by 
 
96 LEYDEN. 
 
 the sound of the church bells, tliat this was Sun- 
 day ; and it now for the first time occurred to 
 me, that had I waited a few hours longer at 
 Haarlem, my curiosity would have been grati- 
 fied, free of cost. — It was a painfid recollection, 
 but there was no remedy, and to curse the organ 
 of Haarlem, and my own stupidity, was the 
 only consolation left. 
 
 After breakfast, I walked througli the streets 
 of Leyden. It is the boast of the inhabitants 
 that their principal street, called the Ilapen- 
 burgh, is unrivalled throughout Europe; but, 
 although I cannot agree to this extent, yet I 
 must admit, that the eflfect is very fine. Indeed, 
 the whole appeai'ance of this town is very pleas- 
 ing; for almost all the streets are intersected by 
 canals, ornamented with rows of trees, and 
 many handsome houses and venerable looking 
 buildings give to Leyden an air of superior 
 importance. 
 
 But, like most of the towns of Holland, not 
 immediately dependent upon commerce or ma- 
 nufactories, Leyden presents that gloomy ap- 
 pearance of desertion, arising from a scanty 
 population, and tlie absence of any thing like 
 the bustle of trade. A lifeless (juiet reigns 
 through all the spacious streets, and a person 
 
LEYDEN. STADT-HOUSE. 97 
 
 ignorant that tliis is the chief university town of 
 Holland, and was once the far celebrated seat of 
 learning, might be very likely to pay a visit 
 here, and to depart as ignorant of these facts as 
 when he came. 
 
 The university building is a large old-fashioned 
 structure, but being Sunday it was not open to 
 strangers. 
 
 The public museum, which is considered to 
 be of great value, was also shut. I obtained 
 admission, however, into the botanical garden. 
 This has lately been much enlarged, and re- 
 arranged, and affords now an admirable school 
 for the student in botany. 
 
 By a mode of application, generally success- 
 ful, I also obtained admission into the ancient 
 stadt-house, an uncouth looking building, de- 
 riving its principal interest from some old paint- 
 ings which it contains. But that which most 
 arrested my attention, was a picture of a more 
 modern character, upon a large scale, though 
 who the artist was I could not learn. Here, 
 however, my gaze was for a long time riveted, 
 and I noted down this picture as the sight 
 which most interested me in Leyden. 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
98 SIEGE OF LEYDEN: 
 
 The subject is the famous siege of Ley den by 
 the Spaniards, in the year 1575, under Reque- 
 senes, who, in the preceding year, had succeeded 
 the infamous Duke of Alva in the government 
 of the Low Countries, and who now continued 
 the work which his atrocious predecessor had 
 unsuccessfully commenced. 
 
 The horrors of the siege, the determined re- 
 sistance of the besieged, and the extraordinary 
 means by which tlie town was preserved from 
 its ferocious invaders, are well known ; and as 
 one of the finest instances of heroic devotion to 
 a country's cause to be met with in the annals 
 of history, the siege of Leyden will never be 
 forgotten, though such a picture as this might 
 have assisted to hand down to posterity a less 
 memorable subject. 
 
 It represents this town in nearly its last state 
 of deprivation, when pestilence and famine had 
 left scarcely a sufficient number of survivors to 
 perform the mournful office of burying the dead. 
 The artist has seized upon the moment when 
 these wretched few, driven to despair by long- 
 protracted suffering, and the horrors of the scene 
 around them, assembled before their governor, 
 and tumultuously demanded food, or that the 
 keys of the town should be surrendered to the 
 
SIEGE OF LEYDEN. 99 
 
 enemy. The governor, well knowing the mer- 
 ciless ferocity of the Spaniards, and the sad fate 
 of Haarlem, five years preceding, being yet fresh 
 in recollection, is represented standing on the 
 ramparts of the castle, with the keys of the town 
 in one hand, and a drawn sword in the other, 
 whilst in the act of addressing the imploring 
 multitude in these memorable words : " Food 
 I have none, or I would give it to you : if my 
 death can serve you, take me, tear me into 
 pieces, and devour me : I shall die with satis- 
 faction if I know that my death will benefit you 
 by protracting your defence ; but I have sworn 
 never to surrender my fellow-citizens to the 
 cruel and perfidious Spaniards, and I will die 
 rather than violate that oath." 
 
 The effect of this address is so forcibly de- 
 picted upon the different countenances of the 
 auditors, that the beholder whilst gazing on the 
 canvass, although inspired with a sort of heroic 
 fervor, drops the involuntary tear of sympathy, 
 and seems to partake of the painful emotions of 
 a spectator of the real scene of misery. 
 
 He sees the emaciated countenances of the 
 soldiers fixed upon their heroic governor, and 
 expressing stern defiance to their enemies ; and 
 of the assembled wives and mothers, some are 
 
 H J^ 
 
100 SIEGE OF LEYDEN. 
 
 expiring over the dead bodies of tlieir husbands, 
 others, as if under the stupefaction of excessive 
 grief at hearing these last words of the governor, 
 are still fixing upon him the vacant gaze of un- 
 conscious wretchedness or wild despair, wliilst 
 their famine-stricken children lie dead and dying 
 at their feet ; and other poor mothers are seen 
 clasping their withered infants to their breasts as 
 if bereft of every ray of hope. 
 
 It is well known how the determined spirit of 
 the inhabitants protracted this siege, until, at last, 
 the elements themselves, as if providentially, in- 
 terfered in their behalf. 
 
 The States General, filled with admiration at 
 the heroic conduct of the burghers of Leyden, 
 but unable to bring into the field a force suffi- 
 cient to attack the Spaniards, came to the des- 
 perate resolution of laying tlie pro\ince under 
 water. The dykes were torn down, and the 
 ocean rushing violently in, the whole of the sur- 
 rounding country was soon overwhelmed. Nu- 
 merous flat-bottomed boats were in readiness to 
 afford succour to the famislied inhabitants of the 
 town. But what must have been their constern- 
 ation on seeing tlie water rise only a few feet, so 
 as to incommode, but not to endanger the situ- 
 ation of the besiegers, who now continuing their 
 
SIEGE OF LEYDEN. 101 
 
 blockade still more closely than before, rendered, 
 tiie approach of the succour which was in sight, 
 impracticable. 
 
 For three sad weeks were the vessels, destined 
 for the relief of these wretched sufferers, hover- 
 ing around the town, but unable to approach, 
 until pestilence had nearly carried off all those 
 whom famine and the sword had spared. 
 
 At last the equinox arrived, and one of those 
 storms arose, which even the nati\es themselves 
 had been used to contemplate with terror. Ac- 
 tive hostility now ceased ; every thing was 
 hushed in silence, as if the contending parties 
 w^ere waiting the approach of something, which 
 all expected would be unusual and terrible. 
 
 The besieged watched the progress of the 
 wizard of the storm, as a guardian angel com- 
 ing to their protection, when every hope of 
 earthly aid was gone ; and the besiegers were 
 seized with consternation at a sight to which 
 they were unaccustomed, and which forboded 
 some calamity to them unknown. To seek es- 
 cape in flight was the first impulse of alarm, but 
 it was too late. Flight, already impeded by the 
 inundation, was soon rendered impracticable ; 
 for the sea, no longer restrained by those stu- 
 
 H 3 
 
102 SIEGE OF LEYDEN. 
 
 pendous mounds which had before held it in 
 subjection, now rushed over the land, and swept 
 away to death or to destruction every thing 
 within its mighty course. The forts of the be- 
 siegers were covered with water, and the furious 
 element continuing to rise, every Spaniard, who 
 had not saved himself by timely flight, now 
 found a watery grave. 
 
 In the mean time the little fleet of flat-bottom- 
 ed boats advanced undauntedly and triumpli- 
 antly amidst the storm, and reached the city 
 gates in safety, just time enough to save some 
 of the remaining few of the famished inhabitants, 
 and amongst these the heroic governor, Adrian 
 de Verf, a name still justly dear to Holland, and 
 handed down by history to the admiration of all 
 nations. 
 
 Such is the interesting subject of this pic- 
 ture ; and the feelings of every one who looks 
 upon it, will testify sufficiently to the artist's 
 skill. 
 
 In commemoration oi' this event, and as a 
 reward to the brave defenders, the prince of 
 Orange gave to the inhabitants of Leyden the 
 choice of exemption from taxes for a certain 
 period, or the foundation of a miiversity in their 
 town. They nobly chose the latter — and 
 
SIEGE OF HAARLEM. ROMAN CASTLE. 103 
 
 never did a seat of learning spring from a nobler 
 cause. 
 
 Near this interesting picture is an appropriate 
 accompaniment in the portrait of the heroine 
 Kennava, who, at the head of a regiment of 
 females, assisted in protracting to the last extre- 
 mity, the fatal siege of Haarlem, in the year 
 J 570, conducted by a son of the duke of Alva, 
 a blood-thirsty and cruel wretch, worthy of his 
 sanguinary and ferocious father. 
 
 From the stadt-house I proceeded to visit the 
 ruin of a Roman castle, situated on a high, but 
 apparently artificial, mound, now enclosed in a 
 garden belonging to a little inn. These were 
 the first Roman remains which I had met with 
 in Holland, and I broke off, though not without 
 some difficulty, a small piece of one of the bricks 
 as a reminiscence. 
 
 These bricks seem to be in colour nearly that 
 of the clay in its original state, and do not ap- 
 pear to have been baked, but merely diied. 
 They are, however, of an almost impenetrable 
 hardness, and the mortar in which they are set 
 seems to be of equal durability. 
 
 The view from the top of this ruined tower 
 is remarkably fine. Leyden stands in the midst 
 
 n 4 
 
104 LEYDEN. RHYNLANO. 
 
 of a tract of country known by the appellation 
 of the Rhynland, which is justly denominated 
 the garden of Holland. 
 
 The view, however, is thoroughly Dutch, and 
 therefore without any pretensions to be called 
 picturesque and beautiful out of Holland, for 
 although the Rhynland presents one uninter- 
 rupted scene of the richest cultivation ; yet, 
 from this very circumstance, and the great ex- 
 tent of level surface, the prospect partakes rather 
 too much of the monotonous to be long pleasing 
 to any but a Dutchman's eye. 
 
 A branch of the Rhine, which still retains this 
 name, passes through the middle of tlie town, and 
 supplies water to such an infinite number of canals, 
 that it is doubtful whether the water or the land 
 occupy the greater space. The town is defended 
 by a broad and deep canal, and surrounded by 
 a rampart, which, being laid out in handsome 
 shady walks, forms a very agreeable promenade 
 for the towns-people. 
 
 Having made my hasty survey of Leyden, I 
 returned to the inn, hired a caleche and post- 
 horses, and set out for a small fisliing village on 
 the sea-coast, called Katwyk-op-Zee, or Sur Mer, 
 to distinguish it from a small neighbouring vil- 
 lage, called Katwyk-sui'-Rhin. 
 
KATWYK-OP-ZEE. 105 
 
 Katwyk-op-Zee, which is distant from Leyden 
 only a few leagues, is the scene of, perhaps, one 
 of the most gigantic works of the kind in mo- 
 dern days. 
 
 On arriving at the village of Katwyk-sur-Rhin, 
 I quitted my vehicle, and proceeded on foot to- 
 wards the coast. 
 
 " Wliere the Rhine loses his majestic force 
 In Belgian plains, won from the raging deep 
 By diligence amazing." 
 
 It is well known that one of the main outlets of 
 this majestic river formerly lost itself in an ex- 
 tensive sandy flat, and that the whole country, for 
 a considerable extent around, was an unproduc- 
 tive and unhealthy swamp. The idea had long 
 been entertained of draining this morass by cut- 
 ting a channel for the purpose of conducting 
 this branch of the mighty river into the sea ; 
 but the difficulties proved so overwhelming, that, 
 although the work was many times undertaken, 
 it was always abandoned. 
 
 To have even contemplated such a scheme as 
 this, after having seen the country, would proba- 
 bly have been considered, by any other people in 
 
106 ARTIFICIAL CHANNEL OF THE RHINE. 
 
 the world than Dutchmen, as a delusion of the 
 wildest of speculators ; and any attempt towards 
 carrying such scheme into execution, as nothing 
 short of an act of madness. No soil was then 
 here visible. The country around was one wide 
 waste of sand, fathomless in dej)th, and so much 
 below the level of the sea, that the whole would 
 have been overwlielmed, but for a range of sand- 
 hills along the shore; — yet, notwithstanding all 
 apparent impossibilities, this gigantic project was, 
 in the year 1804, again undertaken, and, in 1810, 
 was successfully completed: such being the dates 
 given to me on the spot. 
 
 The mode by whicli this work has been ac- 
 complished is well deserving of a particular de- 
 scription ; and this explanation may serve also to 
 give a more definite idea of the magnitude of 
 the design. 
 
 The channel through which this branch of 
 the Rhine is now conducted, extends tlu'ough 
 between three and four miles of country, and 
 the breadth of the cut, as I could judge by the 
 eye, may be about thirty yards. The depth of 
 water was now about fourteen feet, but as this 
 was considered low, the depth, in time of floods, 
 must be considerably greater. 
 
ARTIFICIAL CHANNEL OF THE RHINE. lO/ 
 
 The bottom of this channel being several feet 
 below high-water mark, the waters of the Rhine 
 are pent up by means of sluices or flood-gates, 
 and these being raised at low tide, as occasion 
 requires, the Rhine then disgorges its accumu- 
 lated waters into the sea. 
 
 The first range of sluices immediately fronting 
 this exposed coast, are necessarily of prodigious 
 strength, and as the span across would have 
 been far too great for a single gate, the space is 
 secured by five gates of convenient size and 
 more secure dimensions. To relieve the pressure 
 upon these, two other ranges of sluices, of three 
 gates and two gates each, are placed in different 
 positions higher up the channel. 
 
 The little fishing village of Katwyk is situated 
 amongst the low sand hills which bound the 
 flat-sea shore. In the immediate vicinity there 
 is little or no appearance of vegetation ; for 
 nature has destined this to be ever what it now 
 is, a tract of loose and barren sand. But the 
 surrounding country has already assumed a cul- 
 tivated and comfortable aspect, and instead of 
 being a swamp, is now much drier than most 
 parts of Holland. 
 
108 MANUFACTORY OF SALT. 
 
 At a short distance above the great skiices 
 of Katwyk, and on the bank of this artificial 
 channel of the Rhine, is a curious manufactory 
 of salt from sea- water. 
 
 The contrivance appeared to be so simple and 
 ingenious, tliat it drew down my particular atten- 
 tion, and as it was new to me, it may here, there- 
 fore, be thought not unworthy of remark. By 
 means of a pipe let througli the sluice-gate front- 
 ing the sea, the sea- water at high tide is conveyed 
 into a boat, stationed under this pipe upon the 
 river. The boat, when thus filled, is brought 
 alongside the works, and the water is then raised 
 out of this receptacle by means of a pump worked 
 by a windmill, to a height of about forty feet 
 from the ground. 
 
 The water is here received into a trough of 
 about one hundred feet in length, which is 
 raised upon a scaflblding, and the intervening 
 space from this elevation to the ground, is filled 
 up with small and closely-})acked faggots. Along 
 the bottom of this trough, which is between six 
 and seven inches in breadth, and the same in 
 depth, are numerous roimd holes, about one 
 inch in diameter, through which the water flows 
 into another trough immediately beneath. Here 
 
MANUFACTORY OF SALT. 109 
 
 the water is let out in numerous little trickling 
 streams, which, falling into the great body of 
 faggots, filter consequently in small drops from 
 the top to the bottom, where the water is again 
 received by another trough, and thus conveyed 
 into a sort of well, from whence it is again 
 raised by the same power to the former height, 
 when the same process is repeated through a 
 _similar erection on the other side of the wind- 
 mill, this moving power being between these 
 two filterers. 
 
 A narrow passage, defended by a railing, is 
 continued along the side of the upper trough, 
 and the supply of water passing through this 
 is regulated by means of the holes at the bottom, 
 which are plugged up, or opened as required, 
 the object being to expose the falling water, as 
 much as possible, to the wind. If the wind blow 
 from the opposite quarter, the holes in this 
 trough are all plugged up, and the water is turned 
 into a similar trough along the opposite fi'ont, 
 where it undergoes the same process as already 
 mentioned. 
 
 The effect of tliis mode of evaporation is 
 greater than perhaps may be imagined. I tasted 
 the water as it came from the sea, and it was 
 like other sea-water. I tasted it after it had 
 
110 MANUFACTORY OF SALT. KATWYK-SUR-RHIN, 
 
 passed through the first filtering process, and it 
 had become very much saher ; and I tasted it 
 after passing through the second tihering process, 
 but it had then become so briny as to bhster the 
 mouth. 
 
 The superintendant of the work informed me, 
 that this was a modern experiment, and that it 
 was considered to be a great improvement upon 
 the common process of evaporation by boihng, 
 the salt by this mode being produced much 
 more expeditiously, of a better quality, and at a 
 less expence, one boiling after tlie second filtering 
 being now found to be sufficient. From the 
 same person I also received the following average 
 results, viz. : that two hundred cubic feet of 
 water could be passed through the two filterers in 
 the course of twenty-four hours ; that five pounds 
 of sea-water, after passing through the second 
 filtering process, were reduced to one pound ; 
 and that from one hundred pounds of sea-water 
 were procured about two pounds of pure salt. 
 
 Having satisfied my curiosity here, I walked 
 back to the village of Katwyk-sur-Rhin, where 
 I had left my horses to be refreshed ; and after 
 taking care of myself, I resumed my seat in the 
 carriage for the Hague. 
 
THE HAGUE. Ill 
 
 The country through which I now passed is 
 extremely rich and pretty, being the only part 
 of Holland which I had yet seen with a tendency 
 towards undulation, and on a nearer approach 
 to the Hague, the road becomes even beautiful, 
 being for several miles through an avenue of 
 lofty trees meeting at their tops, so as to form 
 an harbour over head. Entered the Hague 
 between six and seven o'clock, and after a hasty 
 dinner, spent the remainder of the evening in 
 looking about the town. 
 
 Monday^ Sept. I7. The whole of this morn- 
 ing occupied in inspecting the principal public 
 buildings of the Hague, and in walking about 
 the beautiful environs. The principal street, 
 called the Voorhout, presents a magnificent ap- 
 pearance, the houses being upon a splendid 
 scale, and the centre of the road being occupied 
 by several rows of noble trees, with a car- 
 riage-way on either side. The handsomest part 
 of the town, however, is the Vyverburg, a large 
 oblong square adjoining the palace, with a spa- 
 cious walk and several fine avenues of trees on 
 one side, and a large basin of water under the 
 windows of the palace on the other side. 
 
 The large square, formed by the red brick 
 buildings of the old palace, presents a curious 
 
J 12 THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. 
 
 appearance from the strange intermixture of 
 various nondescript styles of architecture, yet 
 there is some interest even in the antiquated 
 singularity of the whole. One side of this square 
 is appropriated to the meetings of the chamber 
 of peers and deputies, another to the drawing of 
 the state lotteries, and the rest of the building 
 to other state purposes. 
 
 The appearance of the Hague altogether is 
 striking and handsome, and worthy of the seat 
 of government ; but the stagnant and filthy state 
 of the canals must be a great drawback to the 
 comfort of a residence here, particularly in the 
 summer months. It is probably owing to this 
 circumstance, that the court fixes itself during 
 the six summer months at Brussels ; a period of 
 extreme dullness consequently for the Hague, 
 which is entirely dependent for its existence 
 upon the royal residence. 
 
 The Museum contains a small but valuable 
 collection of paintings. Amongst these is the 
 famous " Heifer," the chef-d* ceuvre of Paul Potter. 
 This picture, which is upon a large scale, struck 
 me as being, without any exception, the most 
 wonderful imitation of nature that I had ever 
 seen. 
 
THE HAGUE. 11.'3 
 
 After looking over this collection of paintings, 
 I spent the remainder of the day in walking 
 about the beautiful wood adjoining the town. 
 This wood I should judge to be about tliree 
 miles in length, and about a mile and a lialf in 
 breadth. The trees, which are principally oak, 
 are of magnificent growth, and the effect of the 
 whole is grand and beautiful. Here is to be found 
 almost every variety of walk which a level coun- 
 try can afford ; sequestered and lofty avenues, 
 through foliage so thickly interwoven at the top, 
 as almost to obscure even the sun's rays. In 
 another part is the appearance at a distance of 
 an impenetrable forest of gigantic trees, but on 
 a nearer approach, little walks are discovered, 
 which, after leading through a thick labyrinth of 
 wood, conduct to beautifully undulating lawns, 
 laid out in the English fashion, and bordering an 
 elegantly- formed and extensive piece of water, 
 which is generally varied with little islands 
 covered with verdure, or ornamented with shrubs, 
 and affording safe retreats to numerous swans. 
 
 The palace is beautifully situated at the ex- 
 tremity of this wood, but I was too much occu- 
 pied by the beauties liere displayed by nature, to 
 find any time to spare for those of art. 
 
 VOL. I. I 
 
1 14 DELFT. 
 
 Tuesday^ Sept. 18. Left the Hague early 
 this morning by the trekschuyt for Delfl. Tliis 
 is an ancient and gloomy town, built on each 
 side of the canal, and the deserted streets 
 too plainly declare that the best days of Delft 
 (once so celebrated throughout Europe for its 
 pottery ware) are past away. Every thing about 
 the streets and houses shews remarkable atten- 
 tion to neatness ; and Delfl, although deprived 
 of all the interest attending the bustle of trade, 
 remains a true specimen of an old Dutch town. 
 
 A heavy rain setting in without any prospect 
 of cessation for the next twelve hours, I cur- 
 tailed my visit here, and proceeded by another 
 boat to Rotterdam, where I arrived between 
 seven and eight o'clock in the evening, and 
 shortly afterwards, in a dripping state, I reached 
 my old quarters at the Hotel d'Angleterre. 
 
 Wednesdaij^ Sept. 19. The rain continued 
 without intermission initil after breakfast tliis 
 morning, when, the clouds dispersing, the sun 
 came out, and made ample compensation for the 
 wet and gloominess of yesterday. 
 
 Joined again by my former travelling com- 
 panion, I had all the advantages of an excellent 
 
ROTTERDAM. CANALS. 115 
 
 guide about Rotterdam, and we spent the greater 
 part of the day together in visiting the principal 
 objects of interest in this town. 
 
 Rotterdam is situated at the influx of a small 
 river called the Rotte with the Meuse, from 
 which circumstance this town derives its name, 
 or rather from the dyke or dam against the rivef 
 Rotte, as Amsterdam takes its name from the 
 dyke or dam against the Amstel. 
 
 Of all the towns of Holland, this, in respect 
 of size, commerce, and wealth, is inferior only 
 to Amsterdam ; but for pleasantness as a place of 
 residence, it is superior to Amsterdam beyond 
 all comparison. 
 
 The canals here are upon a splendid scale, and 
 the river Meuse flowing into them, they have 
 the advantage over most other towns of Hol- 
 land of being much less stagnant. The advan- 
 tages of situation are also great at Rotter- 
 dam. Ships of three hundred tons can dis- 
 charge their cargoes at the merchant's door, 
 and from the other side of his house he can 
 lower his goods into a barge for any part of the 
 
 kingdom. 
 
 I 2 
 
116 ROTTERDAM. QUAY. BUILDINGS. 
 
 Ill respect of public buildings, Rotterdam can- 
 not boast of any thing remarkable ; but the quay 
 called the Boompjes, already mentioned, presents 
 a long line of handsome mansions, the residences 
 of the wealthy merchants. 
 
 There is in this town a peculiarity in most of 
 the buildings, wliicli, being contrary to tlie usual 
 rule of architecture in other countries, arrested 
 my attention, and excited my curiosity to learn 
 the cause. The peculiarity is in erecting the 
 buildings so much out of the perpendicular, that 
 to a stranger, at first sight, they seem to be in 
 imminent danger of falling ; but on further ob- 
 servation it is evident that this is not matter of 
 accident, but of design. On inquiry I was in- 
 formed that this departure from usual rule is, in 
 fact, intentional, under the idea that the building 
 is preserved from damp by thus more effectually 
 throwing off the water from the foundation, and 
 that it is only the front of the building which 
 is out of the perpendicular; the front being 
 here the last part of the work, and in little or 
 no degree contributing to the support of the 
 fabrick. 
 
 Thursday, Sepl. 20. Spent the whole of this 
 morning in visiting the dock-yard, the exchange. 
 
R0TTERDA3I. ERASMUS. 117 
 
 the stadt-house, and other pubUc establishments, 
 but needing no particular notice. 
 
 The principal public ornament is in the mar- 
 ket-place. It is a colossal figure of Erasmus, a 
 native of this city. The figure is in bronze, 
 about nine feet high, and stands upon a pedestal 
 of six feet. 
 
 Rotterdam contains no public collection of 
 pictures of any importance, but here are several 
 valuable private collections, to one of which I 
 obtained admission, where I found much amuse- 
 ment for the remainder of the day till dinner- 
 time. In the evening I joined a party to a con- 
 cert given by four mendicant singers, calling 
 themselves " Les Quatres Chanteurs de Vienne." 
 The principal novelty in tlie evening's entertain- 
 ment was several Tyrolese airs, sung in imita- 
 tion of the native mountain notes. These are in 
 a curious falsetto voice, but the effect is wild and 
 pleasing. 
 
 My apprehensions had lately been daily in- 
 creasing, lest I should quit Holland without 
 being able to say that I had met with one in- 
 stance of what I could call native female beauty. 
 This evening, however, I was relieved from all 
 further apprehension on the subject, by sitting 
 
 I 3 
 
118 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 near a young lady, apparently about twenty years 
 of age, of beauty dazzling and dangerous to tlie 
 eye of man. The briglit black hair, the spark- 
 ling eye, the fair yet expressive features of tliis 
 lovely figiu'e — but no more. Like a delusive 
 phantom, which sometimes flits before the imagi- 
 nation and then is lost for ever, so this fair crea- 
 ture came and past away, and like the phantom 
 let her be forgotten. My curiosity, however, 
 led me to enquire the name of this young lady, 
 and I learnt thus much, that she is the daughter 
 of a general officer in the Dutch service. 
 
 Friday y Sept. 21. The period for my depar- 
 ture from Rotterdam had now arrived, and hav- 
 ing visited the most interesting parts of this 
 extraordinary country, I this morning came to 
 the determination of pursuing a direct route 
 into Germany ; for notwithstanding the numer- 
 ous little potations of brandiwijn, and the fre- 
 quent use of cegars, which I contrived to adopt 
 in compliance with the practice of the natives, 
 yet the extreme dampness of the atmosphere, 
 and the noxious exhalations from the canals, 
 began now sensibly to affect my liealth. 
 
 This determination made, the necessary ar- 
 rangements for my departure were soon com- 
 pleted, and whilst the church clock was striking 
 
ROTTERDAM. CLOCKS. 119 
 
 for the second time the eleventh hour of day, I 
 stepped into my carriage, and took my Hnal 
 leave of Rotterdam. 
 
 As well for the purpose of explanation as for 
 noticing a strange peculiarity, I should here 
 inform the reader, that the public clocks in most 
 of the towns of Holland strike the hour twice, — 
 once half an liour before, and again at the cor- 
 rect time. Custom renders this less inconveni- 
 ent than might have been supposed. But I have 
 heard even the nati\es admit, when approving of 
 the practice, that they themselves are sometimes 
 deceived, though to be half an hour out in the 
 calculation of time is considered by them as an 
 instance of great heedlessness. 
 
 Nearly the whole line of my road was now on 
 the top of the great dyke, which protects this 
 part of the country from the waters of the Meuse 
 and the Waal. 
 
 Crossed several ferries over the Leek, the 
 Meuse, and the Waal, wliich last is only a 
 branch of the Rhine. But here is such confu- 
 sion of rivers, lakes, canals, and swamps, that, 
 even with my map in hand, I could scarcely dis- 
 tinguish one river from another. I must there- 
 fore leave those who wish for closer information 
 
 I 4 
 
120 ROTTERDAM TO NIMEGUEN-. DYKES. 
 
 on the geography of tliis part of the country to 
 consult the map themselves. 
 
 Perhaps in no part of Holland is the interior 
 dyke system to be seen on a greater scale, nor 
 can the advantages of this system be more strik- 
 ingly manifested than here. 
 
 Most of the land which here meets the 
 eye, is upon an average at least twenty feet 
 below the surface of the waters of the Meuse, 
 the Leek, and the Waal ; and here is seen 
 the same extraordinary sight which I have 
 before mentioned of the cottage chimney- 
 tops upon a level with the surface of the 
 road. 
 
 In various situations where these mighty 
 rivers, coming round with a sweep, present a 
 greater and a stronger body of water, the 
 dykes are upon a scale so enormous, that the 
 stranger can hardly bring himself to believe that 
 he is looking upon the works of human hands. 
 
 But, intersected and overhung with water as 
 this part of the country is in all directions, yet, 
 by the industry and ingenuity of the inhabitants, 
 the rescued land is rich and abundantly fertile. 
 Great quantities of hemp, flax, and tobacco are 
 
ROTTERDAM TO NIMEGUEN. GORCUM. 121 
 
 here raised, and large tracts of swampy land, 
 fit for no other purposes, are converted into 
 ozier beds, or abandoned to natural crops of a 
 very tall and strong species of reed, which is 
 applied to various useful purposes, such as the 
 making of baskets, mats, &c., and whicli serve 
 also to thatch the farmer's house and rick. 
 
 Reached Gorcum about eight o'clock in the 
 evening. This is an inconsiderable but fortified 
 town, situated on the bank of the Waal, near 
 its confluence with the Meuse ; after these two 
 rivers have formed the little island of Bommel, 
 from whence they flow together into the sea of 
 Dortrecht. Being thoroughly wet witli the 
 penetrating mist which had fallen during the 
 whole of the day, a short walk through this 
 town sufficed to gratify my curiosity ; and after 
 supper I enjoyed the comfort of a well-aired 
 bed. 
 
 Saturday, Sept. 22. Left Gorcum at five 
 o'clock this morning, and at en arrived at 
 Thiel, a small town on the Waal 
 
 The road still continues on the top of the 
 great dyke, and the country is similar to that 
 through which I passed yesterday, still afford- 
 ing a succession of objects interesting and as- 
 
12*^ ROTTERDAM TO NIMEGUEX. — THIEL. 
 
 tonisliing. Tlie water, however, seems here to 
 have gained more upon the hiiid, and the efforts 
 of the natives to keep out this powerful enemy 
 appear to be greater. Numbers of httle wind- 
 mills are seen scattered about in every direction, 
 for the purpose of throwing the water over the 
 small dykes, with which the parcels of land are 
 di\dded. 
 
 Thiel is a better sort of town, very pleasantly 
 situated, close upon the bank of the river, whicli 
 is here of great expanse. 
 
 After breakfast I had some little difficulty in 
 bargaining for a vehicle and post-horses to Nime- 
 guen. The bargain was, however, at length 
 concluded, by means of an intei'preter, and 
 about mid-day I was again upon my road. 
 
 Leaving Thiel, the country displays some 
 beautiful specimens of Dutch scenery, and the 
 land, hereabouts, being better protected against 
 the water, presents a scene of the highest lux- 
 uriance and cultivation. Every thing around 
 bespeaks forcibly the industry and ingenuity of 
 these extraordinajy people ; and it may here be 
 truly said in the expressive words of the poet, 
 that the traveller 
 
 " Sees an amphibious world beneath him smile." 
 
ROTTERDAM TO NIMEGUEN. 123 
 
 Here, fiom this elevated road, the dyke is seen 
 intersecting in all directions the wide expanse 
 around, 
 
 " The slow canal, the yellow-blossom'd vale, 
 The willow-tufted bank, the gliding sail." 
 
 In short, every object which meets the eye be- 
 speaks the industry of man, and possesses some- 
 thing to interest and occupy the mind. The 
 thickly studded villages, and the little wind- 
 mills working at their never-ending work ; the 
 mighty river at one side, bearing on its widely- 
 sweeping course the deeply laden barges ; with 
 other rivers and canals in view, all bearing their 
 respective burdens, give continued life and ac- 
 ti\ity to the scene ; whilst tlie stupendous arti- 
 ficial barriers against the waters, stretching in 
 various directions, as far as the eye can carry, 
 with the numerous other devices of this ingeni- 
 ous and laborious people for protecting them- 
 selves and their country against a powerful ele- 
 ment, threatening to overwhelm them from 
 every quarter, aftbrd to the mind a variety of 
 subjects, surprising, am losing, and instructive. 
 
 The whole line of road, almost without in- 
 terruption liom Rotterdam to Nimeguen, is on 
 the top of the great dyke against the Meuse 
 
124 ROTTERDAM TO NIMEGUEN. -BROADS. 
 
 and the Waal, and tlie widtli of the road along 
 nearly the whole of this distance is sufficient to 
 permit two carriages to drive abreast with ease ; 
 and in many parts this width is more than 
 doubled. 
 
 These roads, considering the materials with 
 which they are constructed, are generally in 
 very good condition. They are, how ever, kept 
 up at great expence, and the tolls consequently 
 are hea^y, owing to which, and the facility of 
 water carriage, the public roads in Holland, com- 
 paratively w ith other countries, are little used. 
 
 As far as my own observation went, the 
 public roads throughout Holland arc of two 
 kinds only : one is paved with small hard bricks, 
 called clinkers, and which are fitted so closely 
 together that scarcely a crevice can be dis- 
 covered ; and the other appears to be made 
 wdth the common soil, mixed with shells and 
 sea-sand. The former, when once done, is lit- 
 tle liable to be deranged ; but then the first ex- 
 pence is very great, and to this may be added, 
 what may, perhaps, be considered another ob- 
 jection, that of impenetrable hardness, which 
 cannot but be injurious to the horses' feet. 
 The latter being made with materials much 
 less durable, of course requires much more at- 
 
APPROACH TO NI3IEGUEN. FLYING-BRIDGE. 125 
 
 teiition J bat, however, this sort of road, shght 
 as the materials are of which it is composed, is 
 not only very agreeable, but substantial ; for the 
 surface water, one of the great causes of de- 
 struction to roads in most other countries, is, on 
 these elevated roads, it is hardly necessary to 
 remark, an evil easily got rid of. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock in the after- 
 noon I came before the town of Nimeguen, and 
 here I quitted my carriage to pass the river by 
 the flying-bridge. Some slight derangement 
 having occurred to part of the apparatus, I was 
 detained for about half an hour before I could 
 cross over ; and I will, therefore, make this de- 
 lay an occasion for entering into a short descrip- 
 tion of this ingenious contrivance, called the 
 flying-bridge. 
 
 The Rhine being here extremely wide and 
 rapid, the swing, by means of a line of boats in 
 the usual way, would be subjected to many in- 
 conveniences ; to remedy which, a strong 
 wooden pier is carried out to some distance 
 from each side of the river. The passage 
 being thus narrowed, two large decked barges, 
 attached together by chains, swing between 
 these two projecting piers, from a line of eleven 
 boats, (the first of which is tightly fixed in the 
 
12G NIMEGUEN. 
 
 centre of the current); and thus the sweeping 
 force of this broad and rapid stream, which, 
 perhaps, no human ingenuity could resist, is 
 converted into a never-faihng power, which 
 affords a quick and convenient communication 
 with either side. 
 
 The object in liaving two vessels instead of 
 one of larger size, seems to be in the greater 
 facility of guiding two bodies thus attached by 
 cliains ; for these two barges having a little 
 play, one yields rather more to the ciu'rent than 
 the other, and thus acts in some respects like 
 a rudder in forming the required swee}), which 
 is always effected with the nicest accuracy. 
 Having safely lodged my baggage at the inn, at 
 a little after four o'clock I set out to make the 
 most of the short time w^iich I intended to be- 
 stow upon this town. 
 
 Nimeguen, or Nimwegen, as it is here pro- 
 nounced, is the capital of Guelderland, and 
 appears to be an ancient, populous, and wealthy 
 town. 
 
 It is built upon a steep elevation, reaching 
 down to the water's edge, and the precipitancy 
 of the descent is such, that many of the streets 
 are scarcely passable for wheel carriages j added 
 
NIMEGUEX. THE BELVIDERE. 127 
 
 to this inconvenience, most of the streets are 
 dark and narrow. There are, however, two or 
 three tolerably broad and well-formed streets, 
 and the one leading into the open market-place 
 presents a sufficiently good appearance. 
 
 The principal cliurch is a liandsome structure, 
 and the town-hall, by the antiquity of its exterior, 
 also arrests the attention of the stranger. This 
 building is said to contain some interesting spe- 
 cimens of ancient architectiu'e and sculpture ; 
 but I had too little time at my disposal to be able 
 to devote any portion of it to interior inspections. 
 
 What most gratified me during my visit here 
 was the A'iew from the top of an ancient tower, 
 called the Belvidere, situated on the highest ele- 
 vation just above tlie town ; and I noted this 
 down as the most extensive and the most extra- 
 ordinary view that I had ever beheld. 
 
 The evening was beautifidly calm and clear, 
 and the setting sun had thrown around tlie far- 
 distant horizon the appearance of one continued 
 sheet of fire. All Holland seemed to lie like a 
 map before me, presenting a flat of such extent, 
 that the eye is almost wearied with wandering 
 over the boundless space, and which is so inter- 
 sected in every direction with rivers, canals, and 
 swamps, that the whole country looks as if but 
 
128 NIMEGUEN. 
 
 yet half recovered from the mighty universal 
 flood. From Ariiheim in tlie north, to Gueldres 
 in the south, and from Utrecht in the west, to the 
 forests of Guelderland, and even of Westphalia 
 in the east, the whole country here lies open to 
 the view ; and at a fearful depth below is traced 
 the broad majestic Rhine, sweeping onward in 
 its full and steady course tlirough tliis wide 
 favouring land, to where tlie horizon, sinking 
 into earth and water, terminates the scene. 
 
 From the situation of this ancient tower, and 
 the town itself, it seems evident that Nimeguen 
 was formerly one of Holland's strongest bul- 
 warks against Germany ; and no where has 
 nature, perhaps, more strongly marked the boun- 
 dary line between two countries. 
 
 The elevation on which this town is built is a 
 range of high land stretching round like the side 
 of a great basin, with a large sweep towards the 
 north as far as the eye can carry. In another 
 respect also, the basin is not an inappropriate 
 comparison, for it seems as if Nature had here 
 kindly interposed a barrier against the further 
 progress of the waters, and as if^ tired with lier 
 monotonous labours, slie had said, * Here will I 
 * finish Holland ;' and raising herself high out 
 of the reach of Holland's swampy flats, had com- 
 menced another work called * Germany.' 
 
129 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE MANNERS AND 
 CUSTOMS OF THE HOLLANDERS. 
 
 In passing through Holland, my remarks have 
 chiefly been directed to the peculiarities in the 
 appearance of the country ; but I cannot now 
 quit it without making a few remarks upon the 
 character, as also upon the customs of its no less 
 singular inhabitants, although in so doing I am 
 aware of the risk which I incur of saying what 
 may often have been said before. My oppor- 
 tunities for observation in these respects have 
 necessarily been few, and even these are almost 
 entirely confined to the middling and lower 
 classes of society. 
 
 But here, perhaps, should traits of national 
 character be looked for. The higher ranks of 
 society throughout Europe are now so much 
 associated together, that, as may be supposed, 
 their habits and manners have very much assi- 
 milated. But the middling and lower orders of 
 society being kept more distinct, with less oppor- 
 tunity of intercourse with foreigners, are more 
 likely to retain any customs or habits peculiar 
 to their own nation, and to preserve these in a 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
130 GENERAL OBSERVATICWS. 
 
 state nearer approaching to original purity. No 
 country of Europe, perhaps, affords a stronger 
 proof of this than Holland. 
 
 The national characteristic of this people, 
 which most forcibly strikes the attention of the 
 stranger, is industry. But this, however, is a 
 sort of industry which may almost be said to be 
 peculiar to Dutchmen, — persevering application 
 without energy. 
 
 Numerous and great as are here the monu- 
 ments of human labour, I never happened to 
 meet with an instance amongst these people of 
 violent and strenuous exertion. All seems here 
 to be effected by slow and steady perseverance. 
 Though eminently gifted with bodily strength, a 
 Dutchman rarely calls it into fuU action ; and so 
 well does he understand how to profit by the 
 advantages which his flat country affords him in 
 the way of rivers and canals, that he but seldom 
 indeed has even occasion for the exercise of 
 great muscular power. 
 
 " Thus, while around, the wave-subjected soil 
 Impels the native to repeated toil ; 
 Industrious habits in each bosom reign, 
 And industry begets a love of gain.'' — 
 
 So said, and truly said, that observant traveller, 
 our favourite poet, Goldsmith j for, with steady 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 131 
 
 and peisevcring industry, frugality is certainly an- 
 other characteristic of this people J andso strongly 
 are both these features marked in the Dutch 
 character, that a very short residence in Holland 
 is sufficient to enable a stranger to determine 
 that these are the prominent features throughout 
 all classes, from the highest to the lowest, in this 
 land of merchants ; as also that these are effects 
 from one cause, and which, it has been often said, 
 will discover a Dutchman in any quarter of the 
 globe, viz. the inordinate desire of accumulating 
 wealth. This is evidently a feeling paramount 
 in the Dutchman's mind. It seems as if it were 
 the first feeling inculcated in infancy, and the 
 only one which did not weaken with old age. But 
 eager as is the pursuit of these people after gain, 
 seldom or never does it happen that caution is 
 outrun. In every speculation in which a Dutch- 
 man is concerned there must be a certainty of 
 some profit. A sure basis must be seen for pro- 
 tection against loss, before any calculation of 
 profit is commenced ; and as you hear it in the 
 mouth of the highest merchant, down to the 
 lowest pedlar, this may be called the Dutchman's 
 creed, — '* Small gains, and little risk." 
 
 But whilst on the subject of the commercial 
 character of this people, let it be remembered, 
 that although it be universally admitted that they 
 
 K 2 
 
13'2 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 yield to none in tlie art of making money, yet 
 that, in the estimation of the workl, the Dutcli 
 merchants yiekl not to tliose of any other nation 
 in honest and honourable dealing. 
 
 The natural consequence of persevering in- 
 dustry, with the habit of frugality, is, that indi- 
 vidual comfort sliould be generally extended 
 throughout the country ; and from my own ob- 
 servation, I feel strongly impressed with tlie 
 belief that there is less misery, and more indi- 
 vidual comfort in Holland, in proportion to the 
 extent of its population, than, I had even almost 
 said, in England, but certainly tlian in any other 
 country which I have ever visited. 
 
 Cleanliness, and an extraordinary love of 
 neatness, is also anothei" characteristic of these 
 people, and is exemplified no less in their per- 
 sonal appearance than in the exterior of their 
 habitations, which, however humble, are gene- 
 rally as blight and gay as white- wash or yellow 
 ochre, and gaudy-coloured paints can make 
 them. 
 
 Nor are these attentions to their habitations 
 confined to exterior shew. The inside of every 
 cottage, generally speaking, indicates the most 
 minute attention to nicety and cleanliness ; and 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 133 
 
 the chief deliij-ht of the cottage wife is in exhi- 
 biting a httle room, into which the entrance of 
 almost every particle of dust seems to be pro- 
 hibited. Here a table and chairs, shining as if 
 through a coat of varnish, are orderly arranged; 
 and generally, in one corner of the room, is a 
 little collection of china, fimcifully disposed in a 
 small glass cupboard. In short, this may be 
 called the little sanctuariiim, which, though kept 
 with all its contents only to be looked at, seems 
 to afford to the Dutch housewife a never-failing 
 source of pride and pleasure. I, however, feel 
 myself obliged to admit, that there are many 
 practices still in vogue in this country amongst 
 the lower and middling classes of society, and 
 even amongst the higher classes, which cannot 
 fail to shock and disgust the English stranger. 
 But, generally speaking, as far as my observation 
 went, all ranks of society throughout Holland 
 shew great attention to personal cleanliness ; and 
 in this respect the females of the middle class 
 struck me as being scrupulously nice. They are 
 also very fond of ornaments for the person; but 
 some of these are so extraordinary in appearance, 
 that one might have expected to have met with 
 them amongst tlie females of Otaheite rather 
 than of civilized Europe. 
 
 K 3 
 
134 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Ill some of the provinces, what are called ear- 
 rings, are large gilded protuberances very much 
 resembling twisted rams*-horns. In other parts, 
 and particularly the country about Amsterdam, 
 the favourite ornament is a bandeau of silver 
 gilt, encircling the forehead, with large plates of 
 silver, or silver gilt, at eacli side of the head 
 over the ear. 
 
 The less fortunate helleSy who cannot afford 
 to decorate with the precious metal, content 
 themselves with imitations in copper and tin. 
 But so much are the silver ornaments coveted 
 by all ranks, that these are frequently found 
 upon females in almost the humblest stations of 
 life, having been handed down to them through 
 several generations, or purchased by themselves 
 witli the savings out of their own hard-earned 
 wages ; a fact which carries with it a proof 
 of more importance than that these women, 
 like most others, are fond of ornaments. The 
 effect thus produced about the head of the 
 fair damsel is in appearance not very much 
 imlike tliat of a cuirassier's helmet, excepting 
 that the Dutch beauty is anxious about tlie 
 display of a great number of little distinct 
 curls, which are carefully arranged o\'er the 
 forehead, and there secured in the most perfect 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 135 
 
 order by the metal bandeau. Whether or not 
 this be a becoming ornament is a question which 
 I gladly leave to be determined by the best 
 judges in the world of true taste in the female 
 dress, — our English ladies. 
 
 I am now about to observe upon another cha- 
 racteristic of this people, one which is considered 
 to be so strongly marked, that it has become 
 proverbial against the whole nation, — I mean 
 apathy, or a sort of indifference to those pursuits 
 and occurrences in life which occupy and inte- 
 rest the generality of mankind. 
 
 I must confess that this common charsce seems 
 to me to be much exaggerated, or I found less 
 ground for it than I had expected. 
 
 The Hollander is certainly more phlegmatic 
 than his neighbours; but this, in some degree, may 
 be tlie effect of his more industrious habits and 
 persevering application in the pursuit of gain. 
 His hours of relaxation from the cares of busi- 
 ness are therefore fewer, and the tobacco-pipe, 
 being his greatest solace, is generally resorted to. 
 This practice is not favourable to conversation, 
 and the frequent use of tobacco probably does 
 not enliven the imagination ; add to which a 
 very dense and humid atmosphere; and to these 
 
 K i 
 
136 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 causes may perhaps be attributed much of that 
 insensibihty and plilcgm of cliaracter which has 
 been so often, and, as I think, somewhat harshly 
 charged against this people. 
 
 Having ventured to express thus much against 
 the commonly-received opinion, and against that 
 of the before-quoted * observant traveller, our 
 favourite poet, Goldsmith,' who charges the 
 Hollanders with being 
 
 " Dull as their lakes that slumber in the storm ;" 
 
 I must go a little further, and say, that I think 
 this is as illiberal as several of the preceding 
 lines are opprobrious and unjust. 
 
 A Dutchman, retired to his country residence, 
 and with his pipe in mouth, seated in his little 
 summer-house, surrounded by a green and stag- 
 nant ditch, if not a romantic object, is at least 
 one of much tranquil enjoyment ; and so tho- 
 roughly am I impressed with the complacency 
 and happy state of that Dutchman's mind, (par- 
 ticularly if he closed his books for the day with 
 a favourable entry,) that 1 do verily believe, if I 
 were asked, into which amongst all the civilized 
 nations of tlie earth I should go to seek out the 
 most placid and contented mind, Holland would 
 be my country, and this my man. 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 137 
 
 There is much meaning in an observation of 
 Sir W illiam Temple's, whose long residence in 
 Holland gave him sufficient opportunity for be- 
 coming well acquainted with the character of 
 the people, *' that a Dutchman is always well 
 when he is not ill, always pleased when he is 
 not angry.*' 
 
 The soil, climate, and occupations of these 
 people are, I do believe, less favourable to the 
 growth and cultivation of the more refined 
 feelino-s of the mind than in most other coun- 
 tries ; but, however, if fancy has never yet, in 
 any of her flights, alighted upon the marshy 
 flats of Holland, nature has endowed the inha- 
 bitants, and perhaps more liberally than some of 
 their neighbours, witli many of those amiable 
 and useful qualities which contribute essentially 
 to the tranquillity and happiness of society. 
 
 With all the peculiar local disadvantages of 
 Holland, the Dutch seem to prefer it to any 
 other country of tlie world ; and though with less 
 enthusiasm of character, they possess, perhaps, 
 as much love of country as the people of any 
 other nation. 
 
 Contentment, also, is another prominent fea- 
 ture in the character of Dutchmen, and I know 
 
138 GENERAL OBSERVATIOXS. 
 
 no country wliere this valuable quality is more 
 generally manifested than in Holh\nd. 
 
 Amongst the lower classes, whenever I spoke 
 to any of them about the depression of trade, 
 none were so desponding but that they could 
 draw consolation from the relative state of their 
 own nation with that of others, and from the 
 hope of better times. Such were the answers 
 of those engaged in commerce, and similar were 
 the answers of the farmers, who, in many dis- 
 tricts, were the most suffering part of tlie com- 
 munity. Amongst the higher ranks I had fewer 
 opportunities for observation, and I am less 
 able to offer even a vague opinion ; but here 
 contentment seems to be proverbial, for over 
 almost every maison de plaisance of the wealthy 
 is a board, upon which is written some motto, 
 signifying the happiness and contentment of the 
 owner, such as, " Peaceful is my garden,'* — 
 " Contentment is my lot," — and so fbrtli. 
 
 Amongst these and other good qualities of 
 the Hollanders, I myself feel strongly disposed, 
 even after my short acquaintance witli them, to 
 include mildness and docility of cliaracter, not- 
 withstanding that an enraged Dutchman, parti- 
 cularly amongst the lower classes, is proverbially 
 as dangerous as a wild beast. 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 139 
 
 There is, I think, observable, not only towards 
 strangers, but amongst themselves, an unaffected 
 courtesy and gentleness of manner : but what 
 inclines me more to rank this quality amongst 
 the national characteristics of these people is, 
 that universally throughout the country I ob- 
 served benevolence extended towards the animal 
 creation, a circumstance to which I own I attach 
 much consequence, feeling as I do, that a person 
 who can wantonly ill-treat " a dumb animal^** 
 will be more apt than another person to ill-treat 
 any of his own race when he dare, with im- 
 punity. 
 
 I was much struck with the kind treatment 
 and careful attention which horses in particular 
 meet with throughout Holland. Whenever I 
 travelled with the same horses over more than 
 the usual distance, the brown loaf of coarse 
 bread for their refreshment was never forgotten, 
 and this was always an additional feeding. 
 
 There is also another general practice in most 
 parts of Holland, which shews attention to the 
 comfort of these animals, and this is, the practice 
 of building large sheds on the road side, into 
 which the horses are driven, vehicle and all, 
 when the doors are immediately closed. Here 
 the poor animal is sheltered from the weather 
 
140 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 whilst eating its feed of corn, or brown loaf, 
 which is cut up into small pieces ; and when 
 this is finished, two opposite folding-doors are 
 thrown open, and the coachman, seated on his 
 box, drives out, and is upon the road again. 
 
 Such are the traits which struck me as 
 being most prominent in the national character 
 of these people. I am aware, that observations 
 upon the character of a nation carry with them 
 but little weight, unless coming as results from 
 long experience ; and I am, therefore, aware 
 how very slight are my pretensions for entering 
 upon such a subject. Short, however, as was 
 my stay in Holland, yet, being desirous of form- 
 ing opinions for myself^ my attention was mi- 
 nutely directed to the country and to the people, 
 and therefore in offering these '* Observations," 
 which I do with all proper deference, I must at 
 the same time say, that I offer them with the 
 confidence of self-conviction. 
 
 And now to proceed with my intention of re- 
 marking upon some of the peculiar customs of 
 this country, many of wliich are curious and cha- 
 racteristic of the people, though partaking, as it 
 may be considered, rather too mucli of the Dutch 
 taste to please our fancy. 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 141 
 
 One of these, perhaps more convenient than 
 sentimental, is the mode adopted in most of 
 the towns of Holhind for advertising deaths. I 
 had often observed men parading through the 
 streets in a bkick gown, with long streamers of 
 black crape flying behind, and with a three- 
 cornered hat, to which is attached another long 
 pendant piece of crape ; and seeing these per- 
 sonages knock at diflerent houses as they passed 
 along, I was induced to enquire into their pro- 
 fession, and the nature of their employment. 
 To my surprize, I was informed that, instead of 
 being members of some college, as I had su])- 
 posed, from their academical looking costume, 
 they were public officers, called Aanspreckers, 
 whose duty it is to go about to the different 
 houses of the relations and friends of the de- 
 ceased, for the purpose of communicating the 
 melancholy tidings of his death. There was, to 
 me, I must admit, (however little creditable such 
 an admission may be,) something ludicrous 
 in the contrast between the two figures at the 
 first opening of the door. The actor in this 
 melancholy scene goes through his sad part with 
 an air more obsequious than solemn ; and, bend- 
 ing forward with his hat in one hand, and a list 
 of his daily round in the other, in an acquired 
 voice of sorrow and condolence, he announces 
 the painful subject of his visit. The part of the 
 
142 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. * 
 
 other actor in this scene is, in general, perhaps, 
 less artificially performed ; but the various modes 
 of expressing surprize and consternation at the 
 very sight of this unwelcome visitor, although 
 naturally expressed, and arising from an affect- 
 ing cause, are, nevertheless, to a stranger looking 
 on, and prepared for the effect of the shock about 
 to be communicated, much less affecting than 
 the occasion might seem calculated to inspire. 
 
 In cases of births, the pendent crape and black 
 streamers are, as I was informed, exchanged for 
 a long white neck-kerchief, reaching down to 
 the middle, and a pair of white gloves is sub- 
 stituted for black. 
 
 In their funerals I saw no instances of osten- 
 tation j and, as I could learn, pomp in the cere- 
 mony of conducting to the grave is not the 
 practice of the country; but, that respect is 
 shewn to the rank of the deceased, according to 
 the time of day at which the funeral takes place, 
 and which regulates the price. Every funeral 
 procession passing through the streets of a town, 
 is subjected to a certain tax or toll, which, early 
 in the day, is very trifling, but as the day ad- 
 vances, the price increases, and in the evening 
 and towards night rises to a considerable sum. 
 On this subject, however, I only write after the 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 143 
 
 information which I received, and whetlier this 
 practice extend over all the towns of Holland ; 
 or whether this is a law wliich is strictly en- 
 forced, I am unable to say, though I have no 
 reason to doubt that such is the law, and that it 
 is in force throughout tlie country. I saw 
 several funerals, but these were all in the day- 
 time, and conducted without pomp; the coffin 
 being exposed in an open hearse, similar to tlie 
 practice in France. 
 
 There is a custom in many of the towns of 
 Holland, when any individual oF a family is ill, 
 which, to a stranger, appears rather singular, 
 but which has sometliing like convenience to 
 recommend it. This is the practice of hanging 
 out upon the front door of the liouse a daily 
 Dulletin of the health of the invalid ; and if it 
 be a case of accouchement^ a board, tastefully 
 ornamented with a fringe of lace or plaited linen, 
 describes the state of health of mamma and the 
 little one. 
 
 The ceremony of a Dutch marriage I had 
 not an opportunity of witnessing, and as this 
 varies very much in different parts of Plolland, 
 I shall not therefore go into any hearsay de- 
 scription upon the subject, but merely remark 
 that from all accounts, marriages are here, as in 
 
144 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 other countries, occasions for much rejoicing 
 amongst the friends and acquaintances of the 
 bride and bridegroom, and that, amongst the 
 lower classes, the scenes of merriment are still 
 the same as represented in the pictures of the 
 old Dutch artists. 
 
 There is also a custom on these occasions 
 which is observed by all classes from the highest 
 to the lowest, and which seems to be similar 
 with the old custom still existing in the northern 
 parts of England, viz. that every bidden friend 
 is expected to contribute something to the wed- 
 ding feast. 
 
 Of those extraordinary establishments called 
 the spiel-houses, which are licensed by the go- 
 vernment, and are so numerous in all the prin- 
 cipal Dutch towns, I have already made some 
 mention ; and as the subject is little pleasing, 
 I sliall here pass it over witliout further obser- 
 vation, only remarking that it excited in me 
 some surprize to hear these establishments spoken 
 of as places of public resort for the better sort 
 of tradespeople with their wives and daugliters, 
 as well as for thieves, vagabonds, and prostitutes. 
 
 This may be considered as another specimen 
 of Dutch taste, or may be justified upon the 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 145 
 
 principle which induced the ancient Romans 
 to exhibit, their slaves in a state of intoxication 
 to their youtlis. But without approving of any 
 such mode of education, I will however most 
 unreservedly declare, that as far as I had oppor- 
 tunity of forming an opinion, the females of this 
 country seemed to me to preserve in a very high 
 degree that decorum in their manners of which 
 an Englishman so proudly and so justly boasts 
 as the peculiar characteristic of his country- 
 women. 
 
 I can truly say, that in passing through this 
 country, I do not recollect to have met with 
 one instance of. the want of due decorum, which 
 would make me think more lightly of the female 
 character in Holland than in England. 
 
 There are, however, many fashions prevalent 
 amongst the Dutch females of all classes, from 
 the highest to the lowest, which would be into- 
 lerable if adopted by our English females. 
 
 Amongst other practices, I allude particularly 
 to that of keeping up the animal heat by the 
 introduction under the petticoats of either the 
 little box tilled with hot charcoal embers, or the 
 small pot of burning turfi according to the rank 
 in life. It seems that no lady ever thinks of 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
146 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 moving during cold or damp weather, without 
 this accompaniment, called the chaiiffc-pied. If 
 she be walking, it is carried behind her by her 
 servant ; but as soon as she is seated, this little 
 article resumes its usual situation, and the pro- 
 cess of warming and smoking again goes on. I 
 once took the liberty of rallying a Dutch lady 
 on this practice, but she answered, that custom 
 had sanctioned it, and that in point of fact it 
 was extremely comfortable. 
 
 The mode of warming a bed in some parts of 
 the country is also rather peculiar, and struck 
 me as being not a little uncouth. A large bas- 
 ket, containing a pan of burning turf, is thrust 
 between the sheets, and thus the bed is aired 
 and fumigated, or smoked. A similar practice, 
 however, I have heard is adopted in some of the 
 marshy districts of Italy, it being there consi- 
 dered as conducive to health. 
 
 During my sojourn in Holland, the weather 
 for the greater part of the time was so extremely 
 damp, that dry sheets were luxuries seldom to 
 be met with without this process, so that I rea- 
 dily overlooked the trifling inconvenience of 
 smoke. The same machine is also used for the 
 purpose of airing linen, which is hung over and 
 round the basket. 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 147 
 
 The general practice of warming the houses 
 is by means of the stove usually dignified with 
 the name of its inventors. The consequence is, 
 that the atmosphere of the Dutch rooms is gene- 
 rally unpleasantly close. There is, however, a 
 good notion of comfort about a Dutch house, 
 to which the habitual neatness and cleanliness of 
 the inhabitants much contribute. 
 
 In the interior fitting-up, particularly in the 
 great commercial towns, I was much surprized 
 at seeing the profusion of beautiful Italian mar- 
 ble, used sometimes for the commonest purposes. 
 Nor is this apparent extravagance confined to 
 the splendid mansions of the wealthy merchants, 
 for frequently I found the same sort of material 
 forming the floor of the rooms and passages of 
 the very inferior description of houses. 
 
 It is highly probable that this costly material 
 was brought over by the Dutch ships, chiefly for 
 the purpose of ballast, when Holland, in the 
 zenith of her glory, nearly monopolized the trade 
 of Venice. 
 
 Whilst upon the subject of the houses, I should 
 not omit to notice, in most of the Dutch towns, 
 certain curious little appendages to the front 
 windows, for these struck me as being rather cha- 
 
 L 2 
 
148 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS^ 
 
 racteristic of that tranquil sort of enjoyment 
 in which the Hollanders seem so peculiarly to 
 delight. These are two little mirrors, so fixed 
 on each side of the window, as to reflect every 
 passing object; and here the Dutchman, with his 
 pipe in mouth, sits and gazes away his hour of re- 
 laxation from the cares of business, or the house- 
 wife, here seated with her needle-work, varies 
 the monotony of her employment by every 
 now and then casting a glance upon the silent 
 figures passing and repassing close beside her 
 elbow. 
 
 With respect to the exterior appearance of 
 Dutchmen, I should say tliat they are rather 
 below the usual standard height in England, and, 
 in general, of thicker make. As to the personal 
 appearance of the females, I will \enture to say 
 but little ; for, if grace of flgure there be any, 
 it is effectually concealed under cumbrous and 
 mis-shapen petticoats, which give an unusual 
 appearance of rotundity to the female form. 
 
 Upon the question, however, of the female 
 beauty of a whole nation, it perha})s hardly 
 becomes any one to ofler an opinion, much less 
 one so young and inexperienced as myself; but 
 yet if I were to venture upon so delicate a sub- 
 ject, I incline to tliink that 1 should agree with 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 149 
 
 the celebrated female writer who said, that she 
 could never find any thing to admu'e in " the fat 
 white fishy flesh of Holland.'* 
 
 But as I do not wish, after the fashion of many 
 travellers, that my last observation on quitting 
 Holland should savour of ill-nature, I will con- 
 clude with saying, that I universally found 
 throughout this country great courtesy and kind- 
 ness ; and although I can laugh at the farewell 
 sentences of many celebrated writers, such as 
 that of the cynic of Ferney, — 
 
 *' Adieu ! bateaux, batards, betail ; 
 Adieu ! canaux, canards, canaille !" 
 
 or that of our surly countryman, Smollett, — 
 
 " Amphibious wretches ! sudden be your fall, 
 May man un-dani you, and G — d d — n you all !" 
 
 and such like ; yet I have seen enough to make 
 me look upon all this as harsh and unmeaning 
 censure, applying, but for the pun, as well to one 
 country and people as to another. 
 
 Travelling in Holland will be found to be, on 
 the whole, dear to those whose time and patience 
 will not permit them to adopt the cheap and 
 slow conveyance of the trekschuyt. 
 
 L 3 
 
150 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The cliarges at the inns are in general high, 
 and the expence of horses, with the lieavy tolls 
 at the turnpike-gates, render the price of post- 
 ing here perhaps higher than the present price 
 in England. The traveller will, however, 
 throughout Holland, or at least as far as my 
 experience enables me to say, meet with civil 
 and attentive treatment, excellent provisions, 
 and the beds, if not generally so dry as an 
 Englishman likes them, will always have the 
 great recommendation of being clean. 
 
151 
 
 ENTRANCE INTO GERMANY. 
 
 Sunday^ Sept. 23. Left Nimeguen at four 
 o'clock this morning by the diUgence, for 
 Cleves. 
 
 To the traveller coming out of Holland the 
 change in the appearance of the country is here 
 very remarkable. Our heavy vehicle, or post- 
 waggon, misnamed the diligence, continued for 
 a long time slowly mounting the high range of 
 land already mentioned ; and, at last, having 
 reached what may be called the top of this natu- 
 ral barrier between the two kingdoms, instead of 
 the flat and fertile meadows of Holland, are 
 seen the monotonous and sandy plains of Ger- 
 many. 
 
 Large forests here and there help to break the 
 dull uniformity of the scene, but the view is very 
 extensive over a wretched-looking country, indi- 
 cating the barrenness of the soil no less by the 
 appearance of the country itself, than by the 
 poverty and misery of its inhabitants. For every 
 forlorn and comfortless habitation which here 
 
 L 4 
 
152 CLEVES. 
 
 meets the eye, in Holland might be seen a snug 
 and cheerful village. Here every thing around 
 declares a change of country; and as, walking 
 behind our slowly-moving vehicle, I surveyed the 
 enormous and useless width of road, and watched 
 the clumsy wheels ploughing through tiie deep 
 sandy tracks, trifling as these circumstances may 
 appear, yet to me they seemed to mark no less 
 the change of people than of country. 
 
 At nine o'clock w^e reached, through a wide 
 avenue of lofty oaks, the suburbs of the ancient 
 town of Cleves. Here, opposite to the post- 
 house of the messagerie royale, our vehicle 
 stopped, and I was not sorry to be released from 
 this ponderous machine. 
 
 Cleves, the ancient capital of the duchy, stands 
 upon a declivity, in the midst of an extensive 
 plain, through which the Rhine pursues its course, 
 half a league distant from tlie town. The streets 
 are irregular and ill-formed, and, as far as I 
 could discover, possess no buildings worthy of 
 remark. Upon the summit of a steep hill, rising 
 in the midst of the town, stands an ancient 
 castle, from the terrace of which is a fine and 
 extensive prospect. The steep sides of this hill 
 are tastefully laid out in groves and gardens, for 
 the benefit of the towns-people. 
 
CLEVES. 153 
 
 After surveying this extensive prospect from 
 the castle terrace, and musing for a short time 
 over the town which was the birth-place of an 
 unhappy queen of England, I found little fur- 
 ther to interest me in Cleves ; and, therefore, 
 changing my determination of remaining here 
 for the day, I hastened back to the post-house to 
 prepare for my departure by the first convey- 
 ance. 
 
 On enquiry I found that a diligence would set 
 out from thence at twelve o'clock for Cologne. 
 I had, therefore, about half an hour to spare for 
 breaking my fast with a dejeiiner a la fouchette. 
 Being quite prepared for this meal, a sort of con- 
 venient substitute for breakfast and dinner, I 
 adjourned to a neighbouring auberge, and a 
 piece of bouilli, (in English, boiled beef, or beef 
 boiled to rags,) with a loaf of black bread, were 
 soon spread iq)on the board. 
 
 Behold me now seated at the table, not nice, 
 but eager, and satisfied to see before me where- 
 withal to pacify a craving appetite ; then may be 
 fancied my state of vexation and disappointment 
 at seeing my food about to be carried awa}', or 
 defiled, by a nasty and ignoble race of enemies. 
 These were nothing more than flies ; and it may 
 seem fastidious in a traveller to mention such a 
 
151' CLEVES. 
 
 circumstanco as a special f^ricvance. The reader 
 therefore slioiild be apprized, that 1 complain not 
 of flies such as are seen in England, nor of what 
 in P]ngland are called swarms, but of large 
 black German flies, and of swarms such as are 
 fbinid in Ciermany. Seeing every part of the 
 kitchen thickly covered, and the room for the 
 reception of travellers absolutely black with 
 these horrid insects, I petitioned my hostess for 
 some chamber wherein I might have a chance 
 of eating my meal in peace. In compliance with 
 this request, the cloth was removed to a chamber 
 apparently but seldom visited, though a bed in 
 one corner denoted it to be occasionally used as 
 a sleeping-room. The bed, one old chair, and a 
 small deal table, were the only articles of furni- 
 ture, and the air of desolation which fllled this 
 apartment was now to me its chief recommend- 
 ation. 
 
 Here, at least, 1 hoped to escape from the 
 ravenous and })ursuing crew ; and to ensure a 
 safe retreat, no sooner was my humble fare 
 served up, than I hastened to shut the door and 
 window, ho|)ing thus to cut off all communica- 
 tion from without. But, unluckily, the door and 
 window when shut were far from being closed, 
 and before 1 had taken many mouthfulls, these 
 loathsome insects were crawling in swarms over 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. 155 
 
 my plate and dish, in all the filthiness and in- 
 firmity of old age. The smell of prey soon mul- 
 tiplied these carnivorous swarms to myriads, and 
 being as yet only filled with disgust and vexa- 
 tion, I snatched up a handful of bread and meat, 
 and jaelding the remainder to my insatiate ene- 
 mies, I rushed out to finish my breakfast in the 
 open air. 
 
 Happiness, in the common acceptation, is 
 only a term of comparison with reference to 
 some state of misery. I was now, therefore, 
 happy, and I felt thankful. 
 
 At twelve o'clock our five cart-horses were 
 yoked to, and in a few seconds afterwards our 
 postilion, (in the uniform of his Prussian mo- 
 narch, bearing the royal eagle, and that neces- 
 sar\* appendage the bugle-horn slung round his 
 shoulder,) scrambled upon his saddle, and with 
 much adroitness succeeded in dragging after 
 him his pair of monstrous boots. The usual 
 cracking with the whip now proclaimed that all 
 was ready, and the machine moved forward. 
 
 A slight survey around was suflficient to dis- 
 cover that my cojnpagnons de voyage were not 
 of the choicest sort, and the day being insuffer- 
 ably hot, my prospects in this part of the journey 
 
1.56 CLEVES TO COLOGNE. 
 
 were far from agreeable. Commodioiisly large 
 as these vehicles are built, yet we were all very 
 closely packed, and the best places being taken 
 according to the order in which the persons 
 apply, the last applicant has consequently the 
 worst choice, which was now my lot. Unluck- 
 ily, also, the covered seat in front, called the 
 cabriolet, was occupied, and I was therefore 
 obliged to content myself with the space left for 
 the eighth inside passenger, and to comfort my- 
 self witli the hope, that when the chill of night 
 should set in, my fellow-traveller in the cabriolet 
 might be glad to exchange places with me. 
 
 Of all our party, one man only could under- 
 stand or answer me in French, and he being 
 better calculated to amuse the rest of the com- 
 pany than me, I was left to my own meditations 
 in the midst of the high and low jargon of the 
 two coiuitries ; and so closely was I packed be- 
 tween two Dutch squabs, (either of whom on a 
 cold day might have made one hot to look iq)on,) 
 that the effect, in the present sultry state of the 
 weather, kept me in continual remembrance of 
 what I had once suffered between two feather- 
 beds in Holland. In this situation, my medita- 
 tions through the remainder of the day were so 
 varied, so broken, and so much about myself^ 
 that even if it were possible to recollect and to 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. 157 
 
 arrange them, I can hardly flatter myself tliat 
 they would be acceptable to any one. 
 
 As to the face of the country, from what I 
 could see of it, nature has been more bountiful 
 in the wild beauties of barren heaths and exten- 
 sive forests, than in beauties of the milder sort. 
 The principal towns through which we passed 
 on this line of road were Guelders, Creveld, and 
 Neuss. 
 
 My comrade in the cabriolet, as I had calcu- 
 lated, found his birth becoming less agreeable 
 with the decline of day, and towards dusk an 
 exchange of places was effected, to the satisfac- 
 tion of both parties. There is, however, one 
 inconvenience to which the traveller in this part 
 of the vehicle is subjected ; and, speaking from 
 my own feelings, this is an inconvenience which 
 only habit and a choice of disagreeables can ren- 
 der tolerable. I allude to the close companion- 
 ship which must unavoidably exist in the cabriolet 
 between the traveller and that important append- 
 age to the machinery of the diligence, the con- 
 ducteur. This is a personage often as little 
 agreeable in manners as nice or prepossessing in 
 appearance, but he not only takes his place along- 
 side the traveller in this part of the vehicle, but 
 
158 CLEVES TO COLOGNE. 
 
 quite as a matter of course he takes his seat be- 
 side you at breakfast, dinner, and supper. 
 
 Holding it to be the duty of every traveller 
 to accommodate himself to the customs and 
 manners (as far as he morally may and ought) 
 of the people amongst whom he has intruded 
 himselfj I now endeavoured to console myself 
 under many annoyances, by the reflection that 
 these being incurred by my own voluntary act, 
 it became me to bear with them patiently. These 
 wise reflections, however, appear to convey so 
 little immediate relief, that practically the bene- 
 ficial results, if any, are not always perceptible. 
 Such partly was the real state of the case in my 
 present situation. 
 
 My companion in the leathern conveniency 
 being very much addicted to the smoke of to- 
 bacco, had no notion tluit it could be otherwise 
 than agreeable to me, and lie therefore passed it 
 on into my face in abundant and never-ceasing 
 whiffs. Initiated as I had lately been in the art 
 of inhaling in large quantities these stupefying 
 fumes without any very unpleasant consequences, 
 I was for a long time smoke-proof even in this 
 close conflict, but at last I became enveloped in 
 a cloud so dense and pungent in its nature, that 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. ' 159 
 
 tears started in my eyes, and giddiness, with 
 other symptoms of intoxication, began to mani- 
 fest themselves. The power of reflection, how- 
 ever, had not quite deserted me, and I meditated 
 what was to be done in this dilemma. Many, 
 thought I, would have said, ' Friend, smoke no 
 more ; this is a nasty practice, and to me most 
 disagreeable :' but then it occurred to me, that 
 had I been born and bred in Germany, I should 
 have said no such thing ; and that having volun- 
 tarily placed myself in this situation, I ought to 
 submit to the inconveniences attending it, and 
 to consider myself to all intents and purposes a 
 native. So I said nothing, thereby at least in 
 one essential point, resembling a true German. 
 
 Relief, however, came at last with niglit, for 
 aL a little village (the name of which, my ear, not 
 yet sufficiently germanized, was unable to catch,) 
 where we stopped to change horses, it was sig- 
 nified to me tliat here we also stopped ** trois 
 quarts (Theure pour souper." This meal, accord- 
 ing to the custom of the country, was a second 
 dinner, consisting of a variety of dishes to suit 
 all tastes. But for myself, I was better pleased 
 with the smiling face of the good-humoured and 
 active German lass who waited at the table, than 
 with these various specimens of German cookery. 
 Her long dark hair thrown back from her broad 
 
IGO CLEVES TO COLOGNE. 
 
 forehead, and fastened up witli a fanciful device 
 in one large smooth fold behind, displayed the 
 broad German countenance, which, if not beau- 
 tiful, is often strongly marked by those two in- 
 teresting and important features in female beauty, 
 simplicity, and good-nature. Here was nothing 
 of the pert forwardness of a French waiting girl, 
 but unobtrusive readiness ; and as I looked upon 
 this open countenance of mildness and good- 
 humour in the midst of all the clamour of Imn- 
 gry travellers, I could not help thinking, that 
 had it been the lot of this poor girl to occupy a 
 higher rank in life, how much might her perso- 
 nal appearance, now unobserved, have been no- 
 ticed and admired. 
 
 Hearing some neighbouring sounds of mirth 
 and music, I enquired the cause, and learnt that 
 some of the peasantry were celebrating a village 
 fete in an adjoining room, and I soon afterwards 
 discovered, that our young female attendant was 
 anxiously looking forward to the time when the 
 duties of her office would permit her to join the 
 merry meeting. 
 
 I so far entered into the same feeling, that 
 having quickly satisfied my appetite at the supper 
 table, I hastened to gratify my curiosity in the 
 scene of merriment. 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. — A VILLAGE FETE. I6l 
 
 If I were to dwell on the subject of this vil- 
 lage-dance so long as it might please my fancy, 
 I doubt not it would become tiresome to the 
 reader. But, notwithstanding the risk, which I 
 know is great, of proving tedious, yet, as I 
 proposed at setting out, to notice such incidents 
 as interested me on the road, I cannot let this, 
 which was to me a very pleasing incident, pass 
 without remark. 
 
 At the upper part of the room sat three itine- 
 rant musicians playing upon a violin, a violoncello, 
 and a guitar. The whole party appeared to be 
 composed of peasantry, or persons in that situa- 
 tion of life. The young men were all dressed in 
 their best suits, and, in their tight little jackets, 
 blue stockings, and coloured garters, shewed 
 many dapper, and not ungraceful figures. But 
 with the dresses and appearance of the young 
 Paysannes I was much interested. To the ac- 
 coiuit of novelty, no doubt, may be attributed a 
 great portion of my admiration on the present 
 occasion ; and now, when I am in my sober 
 senses, 1 do believe that there may not have 
 been sufficient in reality to have fairly warranted 
 all the Arcadian notions which were then pre- 
 sented to my imagination. But, however, as my 
 original notes are made, so let them stand ; they 
 
 VOL. I. M 
 
162 CLEVES TO COLOGNE. A VILLAGE FETE. 
 
 explain my real feelings at the time, and these 
 it is my object to convey. 
 
 The dresses of these young lasses were so va- 
 ried, according to the fancy of the wearer, that 
 I will not here attempt any thing beyond this 
 general description — that the exterior garment 
 of most was of lily whiteness, bordered with 
 fancy colours, with a boddice of party-coloured 
 works. The mode of dressing the hair also 
 presented many appropriate and pleasing speci- 
 mens of fanciful arrangement, being generally 
 thrown back from the forehead and gatliered into 
 one large smooth fold, hanging partly down the 
 neck, — a fashion which seems to be generally 
 adopted in this part of the country. 
 
 Thus arranged, the hair is then turned up and 
 tastefully fastened on the top of the head, and 
 generally, I observed, just behind this top-knot 
 w^as fixed, with some fanciful device, a small 
 round piece of lace or worked muslin. 
 
 The dance was that in universal favour through- 
 out Germany, the waltz ; and not the least re- 
 markable and pleasing part of this exhibition was 
 the perfect decorum and propriety of manner 
 observed by all parties. 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. A VILLAGE FETE. l63 
 
 The young peasant bowed as he held out his 
 proffered hand to his rustic partner ; he then 
 encircled liis arm around her waist, and she 
 slightly inclining her head towards his shoulder, 
 rested on this support, and thus they spun round 
 together in the whirling dance. After making 
 a few circuits, he then handed her to a seat, and 
 again bowing, placed himself beside her, or led 
 out another fair one to the giddy round. No 
 instance could I observe of the slightest attempt 
 at an improper liberty, nor could I discover one 
 look or action indicating an immodest thought. 
 
 On expressing my surprize at this propriety of 
 manner, I was told that so habitual is its observ- 
 ance, even amongst the lowest class of people, 
 on these occasions, that no one ever thinks of 
 committing the slightest breach of decorum ; and 
 that any offender against the rules of propriety 
 would instantly be expelled from further partici- 
 pation in the evening's amusement. 
 
 The countenances of many of these young 
 German girls, if not beautiful, were animated, 
 expressive, and interesting. But there was one 
 brunette with bright black eyes, who was certainly 
 the queen of beauty here ; and, without paying 
 a bad compliment to our English ladies, might 
 perliaps have had fair claim to the same title if 
 
 M 2 
 
l64> CLEVES TO COLOGNE.— A VILLAGE FETE. 
 
 transferred, -even in her present fancy dress, to 
 tlie more splendid rooms of Almacks. Her 
 countenance was mild, and expressive of reserve 
 and shyness, but her deep hazel eye seemed to 
 be brightened into more than usual brilliancy by 
 the vivacity of the dance. 
 
 The small round piece of lace, the substitute 
 for the cap, was elegantly fixed with a gilded 
 dart to her dark-brown liair, and as hanging on 
 her partner's arm she whirled in the dizzy round, 
 I gazed upon this figure of rustic beauty, sim- 
 plicity, and innocence, until I thought I saw 
 
 realized before me but I guess it will be 
 
 thought that my imagination was now some little 
 bewildered, — perhaps such was the fact; and 
 upon this part of the subject, therefore, I had 
 better say no more. 
 
 There was one circumstance which struck me 
 as a peculiarly pleasing trait in the character of 
 the scene before me. 
 
 Among these young and buxom lasses in tlie 
 dance were several females so very matronly in 
 appearance, that, in most other coiuitries, and 
 especially in ours, it would have been said, tlieir 
 prime of life and dancing days had long gone 
 by, and that the poor old women liad forgotten 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. A VILLAGE FETE. l65 
 
 this unlucky circumstance ; but here they found 
 youthful partners, and apparently received all 
 the same attentions as the fairest female rustic 
 in the room. 
 
 Whether or not it be quite in character with 
 old age to join in the fantastic dance, I offer 
 no opinion ; but it must be admitted, that the 
 feelings which can prevail upon a young pea- 
 sant to lead out an ancient sybil to the softly- 
 gliding and voluptuous waltz, w^hilst a fair young 
 damsel is sitting by her side, are, at least, in 
 principle, pleasing and very praise- worthy ; for 
 the sole object, one would think, must be to 
 show respect, and contribute to the few amuse- 
 ments of old age. 
 
 But among the dancers there were no old 
 meu. These were disposed of at the lower end 
 of the room, and over their choj^pins they 
 seemed well contented to be quiet spectators 
 of the merry scene. 
 
 The appearance of a stranger and a foreigner 
 excited a little temporary commotion in this hum- 
 ble party, but notliing like impertinent observation 
 or vulgar curiosity was manifested. My host, seeing 
 me much interested with the scene before me, had, 
 as it seemed, whispered about the room that the 
 
 ivi 3 
 
166 CLEVES TO COLOGNE. A VILLAGE FETE. 
 
 young stranger would probably, if invited, lead 
 out some fair one to the dance ; at least so I 
 guessed, for when my host came up to signify 
 to me how much pleasure and honor I should 
 confer upon the whole party if I would conde- 
 scend to select a partner for the waltz, I ob- 
 served every eye directed towards me, as if eager 
 to recognize some token of compliance. Dancing 
 "N^as never one of my favorite amusements. The 
 ci"owded and heated ball-room, where every 
 thing bespeaks formal preparation, studied ef- 
 fect, nature in disguise, and ill-disguised art, 
 never had charms for me, and seldom can I re- 
 collect to have felt any inclination to be other 
 than a looker-on. 
 
 But here the case was different. Here was the 
 pretty artless rustic standingnearme, — her bright 
 expressive eyes looking ready to receive my 
 answer, and declaring all her hopes and wishes. 
 Tlie invitation which this look of unaffected sim- 
 plicity conveyed, cost me a wish and a regret ; 
 I would have accepted the invitation, but I 
 dared not. Our language could only liave been 
 the language of the eyes, and tliat was danger- 
 ous ; and the consciousness of my own inferiority 
 to all the present company in the graceful move- 
 ments of the waltz, filled me with apprehen- 
 sions. I declined, for the first time in my life, 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. A^VILLAGE FETE. l67 
 
 I believe, with any feeling of regret. I, how- 
 ever, requested that I might be permitted to 
 continue in the character of spectator, and I 
 desired my interpreter to explain to the party, 
 that the English stranger would gladly have 
 accepted the in\dtation to join in their national 
 dance, could he have hoped to execute it with 
 a due portion of that grace and elegance which 
 universally characterized it throughout Ger- 
 many. 
 
 Smiles and whispers informed me that my 
 polite answer was circulating about the room, 
 and I continued in the quiet character of spec- 
 tator for some short time longer, until it wa^ at 
 length announced by the appearance of my com- 
 panion of the cabriolet, (though not until after 
 a considerable extension of the original *' trois 
 quarts d'heure'') that all was again in readiness. 
 Many nods and tokens of farewell, not without 
 some smiles, were now passed and repassed 
 about the room, and in a few minutes more I 
 was again seated cheek by jowl with my greasy, 
 tobacco-smoked companion, in the aforesaid lea- 
 thern conveniency. 
 
 I now considered myself disposed of for the 
 night, with so many hours before me for sleep 
 
 M 4 
 
168 CLEVES TO COLOGNE. NIGHT. 
 
 or meditation, and witli little prospect of being 
 disturbed in either, for my companion, as unin- 
 clined to be communicative as he was unable, 
 had already resumed his tobacco-pipe ; and if 
 not likely to verify the old Latin adage, Comes 
 jucwidus in via pro vehiculo est ; or as the old 
 English proverb goes, " Good company upon 
 the road is the shortest cut," was at least likely 
 enough to prove a very peaceable companion. 
 
 The night was mild and beautiful, and the 
 surrounding country, although not presenting 
 any picturesque scenery, yet spread before the 
 view over a wide extent of space, shewing many 
 towns, villages, and forests, and occasionally the 
 course of the full- flowing and majestic Rhine, is 
 not altogether an uninteresting flat. The brig] it 
 full moon, " shedding soft influence" over tliis 
 wide expanse of country, and the dead silence 
 of " the witching time," in.terruj)ted only by the 
 monotonous rumbling of our slow and heavy 
 vehicle, or by the occasionally ungovernable 
 and snorting notes from oiu- postboy's bugle, 
 or from the nasal organs of my snoozing com- 
 rade at my side, rendered this altogether some- 
 what of a contemplative scene, which helped 
 *' to wile the tedious hours of night away," un- 
 til, " deep in meditation wrapped," and watch- 
 
CLEVES TO COLOGNE. MORNING. 19^ 
 
 ing " the grey dawn and the Pleiades," I — I fell 
 asleep ! 
 
 Mondaij, Sept, 24. It was broad day when 
 the tinkling sound of my neighbour's little pocket 
 flint and steel brought me back again into a 
 state of consciousness of life's realities, and gave 
 me notice of the one in preparation. 
 
 The white and thickly curling smoke which 
 now began to fill our small leathern inclosure, 
 induced me to seek some more agreeable situa- 
 tion ; and not thinking it necessary to consult 
 the convenience of a comrade who so little con- 
 sulted mine, without any ceremony I threw back 
 our heavy covering in front, and standing up, I 
 enjoyed the great blessings of the fresh morn- 
 ing air, and the siglit of a brilliant sun-spread- 
 ing its cheering rays over an extent of country 
 open to an unbroken horizon, or bounded by far 
 distant and widely stretching forests. Here and 
 there are now caught more frequent glimpses of 
 the approaching Rhine; and far over the wide 
 plain through wliicli this noble river sweeps its 
 course, is seen tlie town of Neuss. But many 
 a long mile the traveller is dragged before this 
 distant object seems to approach much nearer 
 to his view, and before he reaches it, ex])ecta- 
 tion will probably, as it did with me, quite 
 
lyO CLEVES TO COLOGNE. NEUSS. 
 
 weary him : so far are the travellers' wishes in 
 Germany apt to outrim his vehicle. 
 
 We stopped only to change horses at Neuss, 
 and the time being barely sufficient to allow me 
 to take a cup of coffee, I have nothing more to 
 say about this town than can be learnt on pas- 
 sing through it. 
 
 It seems to consist of a great collection of old 
 houses, and as if it had been once of more im- 
 portance tlian at the present day. It is built on 
 a river, navigable by small craft, called the 
 Erfft, which, at a short distance below the town, 
 falls into the Rhine. 
 
 Almost opposite to Neuss on the other bank 
 of the Rliine, is the beautifully situated town of 
 Dusseldorf}'. Before the treaty of Luneville in 
 1801, this was considered to be one of the 
 strong towns of the Rhine, but the castle and 
 fortifications were then destroyed by the French j 
 and now, instead of a turreted castle, an ele- 
 gant church spire, being the most prominent ob- 
 ject, first attracts the eye ; and the whole, instead 
 of a fortified town, presents the appearance of 
 a quiet and pleasant village. 
 
 The face of the country, during the remainder 
 of my route to Cologne, presents so much simi- 
 
COLOGNE. 171 
 
 larity of appearance with that already described, 
 as to need no further description ; therefore, 
 reader, to save your patience and my trouble, 
 suppose me passing under the dark and heavy 
 portals of the ancient and fortified town of Co- 
 logne, and after rattling through the dark mazy 
 streets, which seemed to ha\^e no end, be thank- 
 ful, as I was, for being at last released from a 
 German diligence. 
 
 After the many musing hours lately passed, I 
 was little prepared for the change of scene which 
 was now presented. 
 
 Oh ye! whose lot it has ever been to be 
 turned out of a Margate-hoy upon Billingsgate- 
 stairs, imagine me now turning out of my lea- 
 thern dormitory into the streets of Cologne, go- 
 ing I knew not whither, and assailed by a crowd 
 of harpies, all fighting for their prey, and uttering 
 sounds to me as unintelligible as strange. Patient 
 submission, to the strongest of these invaders 
 upon my liberty and property, seemed to me my 
 safest course, and keeping as closely as I was 
 able to my portmanteau and effects, I stood a 
 silent spectator until all these were singled out 
 and seized by a hardy ruflian-like fellow, who 
 told me that he woidd conduct me to the best 
 accommodation in Cologne. He then led the 
 
172 COLOGNE. 
 
 way, and I followed for at least half an hour, 
 when we stopped at the Hotel du Saint Esprit, 
 situated on the bank of the Rhine, and for a one- 
 franc piece I now purchased the title of un grand 
 seigneur. 
 
 After a hasty alteration in my dress, I found 
 that it was four o'clock, and that an hour had 
 already passed away since my arrival within the 
 walls of Cologne. To make the most, therefore, 
 of the time which remained, as I intended to set 
 off early the next morning for Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 I now requested the attendance of that useful 
 personage called " le commissionaire." This to 
 an English ear is a high-sounding title, and may 
 be apt to convey a more lofty notion of rank 
 than the duties of the office warrant. ^A hat 
 these duties are it is rather difficult to define; 
 but they certainly embrace all those of valet de 
 chambre, valet de place, laquais, and errand-boy. 
 In short, " le commissionaire" is always in at- 
 tendance, always ready to make himself useful, 
 always the humble servant of his employer, and 
 generally a great rogue. But in the character 
 of valet de place he now appeared before me. 
 It is well known that there are tricks in most 
 trades, and as this is a trade embracing many 
 callings, so does it include many tricks. How- 
 ever, I was now not quite a novice in the tricks 
 
COLOGNE. 173 
 
 practised upon travellers on the continent ; and 
 in giving this obsequious attendant to under- 
 stand that I engaged his services as a guide 
 about the town, I also gave him to understand 
 that, as I should quit Cologne early to-morrow 
 morning, it would be unnecessary for him to 
 reserve the best sights for a future day, and that 
 accordingly as I was pleased so he would be 
 remunerated. 
 
 In reply, he admitted the candour of this 
 explanation, but that the time allotted was too 
 short to enable him to do his duty to his satis- 
 faction. He, however, congratulated me on my 
 good luck in meeting with him, as there Avas not 
 an object of interest in this town with which he 
 was not acquainted, nor one ancient inscription 
 within its walls which he could not repeat by 
 heart. These preliminaries closed, I set out 
 upon my survey. 
 
 The appearance of Cologne, viewed from 
 without its fortifications, is that of an immense 
 crowd of houses encircled by a high and massy 
 wall, within which rise towers and steeples innu- 
 merable. From hence the whole is a striking: 
 and imposing object ; and the broad majestic 
 Rhine, sweeping beneath the dark stone wall, 
 imparts to this once " Holy City'* a character of 
 
174 COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 romantic interest. But viewed from tlie interior, 
 its grandeur and nearly all its interest disa})])ears. 
 The houses are lofty, mishapen, and dirty ; the 
 streets are long, gloomy, irregular, and dirty; and 
 as to the inhabitants, they seem as dirty as the 
 town they live in. 
 
 Proceeding through such a maze of narrow 
 streets as would baffle the closest observation of 
 the stranger, and render it no easy matter for 
 him to retrace his steps without the assistance 
 of a guide, we came at last into the area where 
 stands the cathedral, a noble and imposing 
 Gothic structure, but surrounded with the 
 clumsy buildings of the after, or, as it is termed, 
 the more enlightened age. 
 
 The interior of this cathedral is not less im- 
 posing than the exterior. That " heavenly pen- 
 sive contemplation" which the Gothic style of 
 architecture is so well calculated to inspire, and 
 which has so strong a tendency to lill the mind 
 with solemn and religious sentiments, is here 
 powerfully incited by the long and gloomy aisles ; 
 and the softly mild and melancholy light ad- 
 mitted through the richly painted windows, 
 tlirows over the lofty arches and numerous 
 gigantic columns of this holy edifice a solenmity 
 so deep and so impressive, that the beholder 
 
COLOGNE. CHURCHES. 175 
 
 gazes around hiin until he almost fancies the 
 period of his existence transferred back to the 
 dark monastic age. 
 
 I next visited the church of Saint Peter. 
 The interior of this church is also striking, for 
 although it does not possess the stern solemnity 
 of true Gothic architecture, yet it derives much 
 interest from the stamp of antiquity observable 
 throughout. Perhaps one of the principal causes 
 of the celebrity of this church in the present day, 
 is the possession of an altar-piece representing 
 "The Crucifixion of Saint Peter," byRubens. But 
 noble as is the whole of this composition, it struck 
 me as being inferior both in design and colouring 
 to any of his altar-})ieces which I had seen, and 
 I incline to think tliat this must be one of the 
 great artist's early productions. Rubens is said 
 , to have been christened in this church, and it 
 seems to me not improbable that this picture 
 was in consequence one of his earliest presents 
 after his name had attained celebrity. 
 
 I next proceeded to the church formerly 
 belono^ins; to the Jesuits. This is worth visit- 
 inff, if it be only for the beauty and richness 
 of the interior decorations. In short, the stran- 
 ger should recollect that Cologne was once 
 " the holy city," and that as the numerous 
 
170 COLOGNE. ST. URSULA. 
 
 churches were tlien its cliief pride and boast, 
 so they are now its principal objects of interest. 
 
 My guide, of course, thought it his duty to 
 introduce me to the ancient convent of the 
 huhes of St. Ursula, rendered so famous by the 
 devotion of that saint, and her eleven thousand 
 virgins, whose skulls are there still carefully 
 preserved. These, some hundreds of years ago, 
 when set upon the shoulders of their fair owners, 
 might have been a goodly sight, but now, liow- 
 ever fantastically arranged, I felt so little interest 
 in these remnants of a barbarous superstition, that 
 I declined an introduction to them. But enough 
 of churches and old bones. I now only desired 
 to see as much of the town as I could, and I 
 therefore wandered through its mazy streets as 
 long as there was light. Nevertheless I disco- 
 vered in tliis walk so little to repay me for my 
 trouble, that I am here not inclined to impose 
 further trouble upon the reader. Recollecting 
 that I had not yet dined, I requested my guide 
 to conduct me by the shortest way to the inn, 
 with the blaspheming sign. 
 
 N. B. Mine host of the Saint Esprit proved 
 to be the most arrant and unblushing cheat that 
 I had yet met with on the continent. 
 
 Tuesday^ Sept. 2.5. At six o'clock I was rat- 
 tling through the gloomy and now deserted 
 
OUTSKIRTS OF COLOGNE. 177 
 
 Streets of Cologne on my way to Aix-la-Chapelle; 
 and after passing under many dark and massy 
 gateways, over which liung the ponderous and 
 threatening portcullis, I beheld before me the 
 more pleasing sight of clieerful morning break- 
 ing over a vast expanse of fertile country, whilst 
 the mists of night seemed yet to overhang the 
 high and distant hills in the horizon. 
 
 For some miles round Cologne the country 
 presents rather the appearance of a large kitchen- 
 garden than of farming land ; and the strong 
 luxuriancy of the cabbages and various other 
 vegetables here cultivated, indicates a better 
 soil tlian I had yet noticed since quitting 
 Holland. 
 
 About half a league from the city, close by 
 the road side, is a spot which I cannot here pass 
 by without remark. It is the Pere la Chaise of 
 Cologne, comprising several acres within an 
 enclosure, shaded by various sorts of funereal 
 trees and shrubs; and the spots where lie the 
 mortal remains of the departed, are marked out 
 by crosses and other symbols and devices of 
 catholic worship. 
 
 This mode of disposing of the dead, I must 
 confess, always appeared to me, to say the least 
 
 VOL. I. N 
 
178 PUBLIC BURIAL GROUND. 
 
 of it, more pleasing to the fancy than the prac- 
 tice with us of entombing the dead beneath the 
 feet of the hving in crowded cities. The space 
 set apart by the road side, open to the free 
 winds from heaven, and shaded with the dark 
 and melancholy cypress tree, the weeping willow, 
 the laurel, myrtle, and other evergreens, is a 
 memento mori to the passing traveller; and instead 
 of exciting in his mind horror and disgust, is 
 calculated to inspire feelings congenial with those 
 reflections, which are naturally suggested in the 
 contemplation of that awful change which awaits 
 him, and of which he is here reminded. 
 
 Such, at least, is my feeling on the subject, 
 and, with the minstrel of the North, say I, 
 
 Let vanity adorn the marble tomb 
 
 With trophies, rhymes, and scutcheons of renown, 
 
 In the deep dungeons of some Gothic dome, 
 
 Where night and desolation ever frown. 
 
 Mine be the breezy hill that skirts the down ; 
 
 Where a green grassy turf is all I crave, 
 
 With here and there a violet bestrown, 
 
 Fast by a brook or fountain's murmuring wave, 
 
 And many an ev'ning sun shine sweetly on my grave." 
 
 About two o'clock we entered the strongly 
 fortified town of Juilliers, formerly the capital of 
 the duchy of the same name. 
 
JUILLIERS. 179 
 
 As it was here necessary that our horses should 
 take a full hour's rest, I had some time at my 
 disposal after dinner, for walking round the town 
 and fortifications. These were once considered 
 almost impregnable; but although this is a term 
 perhaps, in the present state of the science of 
 war, scarcely applicable to any fortress fortified 
 by art only, yet, these broad and numerous 
 ditches, these high mounds and masked batteries 
 might still prove formidable impediments in the 
 way of an invading army. This fortress now 
 belongs to Prussia, and is garrisoned by Prussian 
 troops. 
 
 Between three and four o'clock, I was once 
 more seated in my carriage, and after passing all 
 the gloomy contrivances of war, I found myself 
 again in the open and proverbially fertile country 
 of the duchy of Juilliers. 
 
 The same rich and champagne country con- 
 tinues to Aix-la-Chapelle, but becomes more 
 wooded and picturesque as the traveller ad- 
 vances; and at last, after gaining the summit of 
 a long and tedious ascent, he looks down upon a 
 beautiful and fertile country, enclosed as if in a 
 bowl, formed by high surrounding hills ; and at 
 the bottom of this natural basin, his eye first 
 
 N 2 
 
180 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 rests upon the domes and spires of the old impe- 
 rial city. 
 
 By the time of our arrival the gates were shut, 
 and the darkness of night had obscured all dis- 
 tant view. But the entrance was striking, and 
 the lamps fixed upon the iron gates, which ex- 
 tend across the spacious road, threw around light 
 sufficient to give a very handsome effect, and to 
 favor first impressions. 
 
 My carriage stopped, and presently the door 
 opening, in pop})ed the head of a grim looking, 
 mustachoed militaire, who, according to usual 
 form, but in no friendly greeting voice, demand- 
 ed, * votre passeport,' * votre qualite,' * quel 
 age avez vous, ' ' d'ou venez vous, ' * ou allez 
 vous, ' * ou logez vous : ' all which impertinent 
 questions being satisfactorily answered, the gates 
 were thrown open, and I was presently set down 
 * au dragon d'or.' 
 
 Wednesday Sept. 26. The whole of this day 
 was devoted to the inspection of this ancient 
 city, so full of antiquated buildings and sacred 
 relics. 
 
 As to the city itself, it has no particular claim 
 to notice, either in respect of size, or general ap- 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. HOTEL DE VILLE. 181 
 
 pearance; and probably the interest which it ex- 
 cites in the stranger, is more attributable to histo- 
 rical recollections, and to the fact that it was the 
 birth-place and favourite residence of the great 
 conqueror, and first emperor of Germany, who 
 here closed his earthly career, and whose mortal 
 remains are here deposited. There is also a cer- 
 tain gloomy air throughout this city, which tends 
 rather to heighten its interest to the stranger, 
 perhaps, by rendering his mind more susceptible 
 of those impressions, which the sight of places 
 memorable in history is calculated to excite. 
 
 From the appearance of the fortifications, now 
 far gone into decay, it is evident that this was 
 once a place of great strength, and from the 
 many vestiges of Roman castles which still re- 
 main, it was probably a strong-hold even in the 
 time of the early conquerors of the world. Its 
 history, however, I leave to the research of those 
 who desire such information. It is for me only 
 to attempt to convey some idea of the present 
 state of things, and to notice those objects which 
 struck me as worthy of remark. 
 
 The hotel de ville, which is one of the most 
 striking buildings of this cityj is an ancient edi- 
 fice, facing the market-place, or as it is called, 
 la Grande Place. But how to convey any idea of 
 
 N 3 
 
182 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 this antique structure, 1 really know not ; forwith 
 its large slated roof, its minarets and towers, it 
 comprises so many styles of architecture as 
 scarcely to be reducible to any. The whole, 
 however, presents a venerable appearance, and 
 derives some interest from the recollection tliat 
 this was the palace, or, more probably, the scite of 
 the palace, wherein Charlemagne was born, and 
 in which he chiefly resided ; and that this very 
 building contains the room in which so many 
 German sovereigns have been crowned, and in 
 which the peace of Europe was confirmed after 
 the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748. 
 
 In the front of this building is a large bronze 
 basin and fountain, with a figure of Charlemagne 
 in armour, between two black eagles, all of the 
 same metal. 
 
 The cathedral is a venerable specimen of the 
 early Saxon architecture, said to have been built 
 by Charlemagne, and consecrated by Pope Leo 
 III. in 804. The original structure, liowever, 
 bears so many evident marks of comparatively 
 modern workmanship, tliat probably a small 
 portion of the great founder's work is left. Un- 
 der the dome in the centre of the church, are 
 preserved the ashes of this renowned monarch, 
 who died at Aix-la-Chapelle, in 814. The spot 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CHARLEMAGNE. 183 
 
 is marked by this simple inscription on the pave- 
 ment, « Carolo Magno.* 
 
 Among the numerous reUcs which this church 
 contains, and which for a trifling gratuity are 
 shown to the curious stranger, are the scull and 
 arm-bones of Charlemagne. Although we all 
 know that these are in appearance very like the 
 bones of the most ignoble of the human race 
 who ever trod the earth, yet, in the contem- 
 plation of any thing which once appertained to 
 greatness, whether good or bad, we are all more 
 or less acquainted with certain feelings which 
 make us regard these objects wdth attentive in- 
 terest, and, on such occasions, credulity is apt to 
 be strained. But in this rich treasury of relics, 
 all of which are here preserved with the most 
 holy care, the demands on our credulity are un- 
 usually large. 
 
 For my own part, after examining with due 
 respect and attention a piece of the wood which 
 composed our blessed Saviour's cross, the girdles 
 of Jesus and the Virgin, the napkin in which 
 John the Baptist's head was placed, a piece of 
 Aaron's rod, and some of the original manna 
 from the wilderness, my stock of credulity was 
 over-drawn, and my patience was exhausted. 
 
 N 4 
 
184 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CHURCHES. 
 
 No where have I witnessed superstition so 
 general, so egregious, and so shocking as at 
 Aix-la-Chapelle ; and no where have I seen the 
 sad consequences so prominently marked. 
 
 It is melancholy to see the miserable beings 
 who, sunk to the lowest ebb of human wretched- 
 ness and degradation, are crowded, for want of 
 other shelter, into the holes and corners of the 
 open churches of this city, and prostrated day 
 after day before some disgusting symbol of 
 Catholic superstition, to extort by the abject 
 wretchedness of their appearance, some pittance 
 from the stranger, or credulous devotee. It is 
 indeed a melancholy and loathsome sight ; ex- 
 hibiting human beings in a state so little differing 
 from that of non-existence, tliat they seem, as 
 lying along the cold damp pavement of these 
 gloomy ailes, like so many of the dead given up 
 from the tombs beneath. What a contrast be- 
 tween these sights of woe, and the pompous cere- 
 monies of Catholic worship ! and, if tlie natural 
 sentiments were not extinguished by gloomy 
 mystery, how varied must be the feelings of 
 those who come to adore the providence of God 
 in the midst of all this gloomy grandeur, splen- 
 did pageantry, and human degradation ! But 
 these are contrasts and feelings, observed and 
 felt perhaps only by those wlio can contemplate 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. THE REDOUBT. 18.5 
 
 siicli scenes iiiishrouded by the dark veil of bi- 
 gotry and fanaticism. 
 
 Having satisfied my curiosity in the cathedral, 
 I next proceeded to anotlier and a different sight, 
 calculated to raise feelings so little in unison 
 with the last, that this change may appear some- 
 what too abrupt. However, by the time that I 
 had walked through some of the principal streets, 
 and reached the colonnade which directs the 
 stranger to the far-famed redoubt, or public gam- 
 ing house, my feelings had so far recovered their 
 natural tone, and so expert had I now become 
 in the convenient art of transition from one sub- 
 ject to another, however opposite, that from holy 
 ground, and scenes of human suffering, I now, 
 quite unconcerned, stept upon unholy ground, 
 and into scenes of vice. 
 
 This building, called the Iledoutensaal, arrests 
 attention, not by the beauty of its structure, but 
 by an open colonnade in front, where prints of 
 all sorts and subjects are exposed to sale. Adjoin- 
 ing is a large shop, or sort of bazaar, for the sale 
 of books, toys, and trinkets, with other articles 
 manufactured in this town or neighbourhood. 
 But I would warn the stranger against including 
 books in any of his ])iucliases here, as these are 
 
180 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. BATHS. 
 
 articles which bear an advance of about one- 
 third upon the Paris prices ; an instance, amongst 
 many others, explanatory of the principles of 
 government in this city. 
 
 But to proceed to the grand saloon, or rendez- 
 vous of vice. This is a splendid room, lined 
 with mirrors, with a ceiling beautifully and richly 
 carved. In festive times this room is applied to 
 the purposes of balls and concerts, and then glit- 
 ters with the stars of royalty ; but now it exhi- 
 bited a motley crew, crowding around the well- 
 baited trap, which, when it catches one, is sure 
 to entice another miscalculating victim, hke the 
 deceitful birdcage-trap, which, having inveigled, 
 closes upon the little flutterer ; with this differ- 
 ence, how^ever, that the man-trap is always 
 baited, alw^ays set. 
 
 Escaping from this scene as soon as I had 
 satisfied my curiosity, I next visited some of the 
 principal baths. The springs of mineral water 
 here are very numerous, and various in quality 
 and temperature. I pretend not to give the 
 result of any analysis of these waters, but the 
 taste indicates them to be strongly impregnated 
 with sulphurous and saline matter, and the olfac- 
 tory nerves are sensibly affected by a consider- 
 able portion of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. .Some 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE HOT SPRINGS. 187 
 
 of these springs are cold, and some rise to the 
 extraordinary temperature of 150" of Fah- 
 renheit. 
 
 The medicinal properties of these springs have, 
 from time immemorial, rendered them famous 
 throughout Europe, and all ages have considered 
 them as blessings sent by a beneficent Being for 
 the benefit of man. 
 
 It is, however, amusing to see to what various 
 purposes these blessings are applied in the dif- 
 ferent parts of this town. In some of the streets 
 through which the hot stream pursues its course, 
 are ranges of washerwomen busily employed in 
 their vocation, and in other places, where a laro-e 
 commodious tank affords a greater depth of 
 water, are seen in the midst of the sulphureous 
 steam, a crowd of people engaged in pursuits 
 too various to be described, though the process 
 of scalding a fresh-slain porker, struck me as 
 singular, even in the variety. This tank, how- 
 ever, soon relieves itself from the numerous and 
 gross impurities with which it is defiled, and the 
 water resumes its natural clearness. 
 
 With respect to the appearance of the streets, 
 these are for the most part gloomy and irregular, 
 and the principal one, called la Rue Comphausbad, 
 
188 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. A RECOGNITION. 
 
 cuts but a sorry figure as tlie chief of this once 
 imperial city. 
 
 Whilst gazing about in idle curiosity, I met 
 with a gentleman apparently occupied in a simi- 
 lar way, except that he seemed to be looking for 
 something, and I for nothing. I felt an inclina- 
 tion to offer my assistance, and I thought tliat 
 he seemed half inclined to ask it ; but unfortu- 
 nately we were both English, and we had never 
 been introduced. However, I hate ceremony ; 
 and therefore, in defiance of the rule of English 
 good breeding, I went up and asked the stranger 
 if he were looking for any thing to which a 
 stranger like himself miglit perchance assist 
 liim. 
 
 This difficulty being removed, the stranger 
 courteously thanked me, adding that he had just 
 then arrived in the town, and that he was look- 
 ing about for the post-office. As it happened, 
 this was a place which I had already had occa- 
 sion to seek out ; but as I should have had some 
 difficulty in describing the road, I proposed 
 to accompany him there, wliich offer was with 
 many thanks accepted. 
 
 On arriving at the bureau, lie enquired if there 
 
 were any letters for Sir James de B . With 
 
 jnuch surprise^ I exclaimed ; " Do vou know that 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. THEATRE. 189 
 
 name ?" " I ought to know it," replied he, *' for 
 it belongs to me.'* " Then,'* said I, " you should 
 know mine also ; for although it seems that a 
 few years ha\'e made some alteration in our ap- 
 pearances, yet our names are the same as when 
 we were schoolfellows at Harrow." A mutual re- 
 cognition of person as well as name now took place, 
 and on a sudden we became, I may say, better 
 acquainted than we had ever been before, even 
 in our scliool-boy days. We both looked upon 
 this incident as une heureuse aventure^ and agreed 
 that, as the objects of our visit to Aix-la-Cha- 
 pelle were very similar, we would proceed in 
 concert upon further schemes, during the remain- 
 der of our stay. But as I had to avail myself of 
 the post, we now parted for our separate hotels, 
 having settled to meet again in the evening for 
 the play. 
 
 Upon the subject of this amusement I have 
 nothing to say, excepting that the dialogue was 
 conducted in the broad German tongue, which 
 was to me unintelligible ; and, as far as I could 
 judge of tlie dumb show, it was a continuation 
 of very bad buffoonery. 
 
 As to the house itself, — O, all ye lovers of the 
 drama, how great will be your surprise and dis- 
 appointment on entering the salle de spectacle 
 
190 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. MOUNT LOUISBERG. 
 
 of this imperial city! — a long, dark and dusty 
 passage, formed simply by a covering over mo- 
 ther earth, is the principal entrance into a spa- 
 cious oblong — what shall I call it? — for take 
 away the benches, and, in plain English, little 
 better than a barn remains ! 
 
 Thursday^ Sept. 27. The day was beautiful 
 and highly favourable to an arrangement which 
 had been made with my newly-discovered ac- 
 quaintance for visiting the delightful environs of 
 this town. The favourite promenade is a neigh- 
 bouring hill called Louisberg, and this was to 
 be our fii'st object. 
 
 It seems that until the late inroads of the 
 French, this was a naked hill ; but as these in- 
 vaders generally thought it necessary to leave 
 behind them some memorials of their taste, as 
 well as of their skill in war, after they had taken 
 possession of this city, they obligingly set about 
 forming an agreeable promenade for the inhabi- 
 tants, by covering the naked sides of Mount 
 Louisberg with ornamental shrubs and trees, and 
 by cutting easy and commodious walks. All 
 this appears to be tastefully arranged, and the 
 inhabitants, no doubt, feel as thankful as they 
 ought. But these obliging guests seem to have 
 been desirous of leaving behind them some fur- 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. BURSCHEID. 191 
 
 ther memorial of their visit, by erecting a high 
 obehsk of imperishable stone on the summit of 
 this hill. Their sudden departure, however, 
 and the indifference of the natives to the exist- 
 ence of so durable and prominent a memento of 
 this visit, may perhaps account for the fact of 
 this obelisk being left in its present unfinished 
 state. However, before the stranger quits Aix- 
 la-Cliapelle, I would recommend him to take the 
 trouble of ascending to the spot where stands 
 this unfinished obelisk. From hence he will 
 survey a beautiful panoramic scene, shewing the 
 ancient city in its best point of view, as also 
 a fertile and well-wooded country for many 
 miles around. The liill itself seems to be prin- 
 cipally composed of a very light sandy soil, 
 containing loose and faulty strata of argillaceous 
 and calcareous stones, mixed with petrifactions 
 and marine productions. In the course of this 
 walk I picked up several small sea-shells. 
 
 Our next visit was to the ancient town of 
 Burscheid, in the vicinity of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 also famous for its hot-baths. On this account 
 it principally deserves the stranger's notice, for 
 the town itself is without interest, consisting of 
 ancient and dilapidated buildings, and presenting 
 no very pleasing picture of cleanliness or com- 
 fort. The situation, however, is very pretty, 
 
192 BURSCHEID. HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 being partly in a valley, and partly on tlie decli- 
 vity of a hill. 
 
 In this valley rise several liot-springs which 
 flow through some of the streets, and are traced 
 far away l^y the low cloud of steam which fol- 
 lows, but which leaves behind a fragrance inore 
 powerful than the rincings of ten thousand gun- 
 barrels. 
 
 Near the entrance of tlie lower part of the 
 town is a deep and spacious basin, into which is 
 seen bubbling up at almost boiling heat, one of 
 these sulphureous springs. The water, although 
 of a green and yellow tinge, shews the transpa- 
 rency of crystal. Whilst w^e were admiring the 
 curious and beautiful appearance of this water, 
 a poor woman came out from a neighbouring 
 cottage, with a glass, w^hich, dipping into the 
 basin, she presented to my companion brim 
 full, and smoking hot. He, however, declined 
 the compliment, and but for a sort of wish that 
 the poor woman might feel she had done some- 
 thing to entitle her to a small gratuity, I pro- 
 bably should have done the same ; but under 
 this feeling I received the crystal vessel, wdth 
 its equally transparent contents, which holding 
 until I thought it sufficiently cool, I quaffed 
 down as nauseous and scalding a draught as I 
 
BURSCHEID. -r- HOT SPRINGS. IQS 
 
 had ever swallowed in my life. However, put- 
 ting the glass and a franc piece into the poor 
 woman's hand, I received in return a short 
 prayer, that her offering might prove as great a 
 blessing to me as mine would be to her. She 
 gave us much information about the different 
 springs, and expatiated upon their salutary 
 effects. She also informed us, and I have no 
 doubt correctly, that the temperature of these 
 springs is the same in the hottest as in the 
 coldest weather. 
 
 The country, hereabouts, is very uneven, and 
 bears evident marks of subterraneous fires. At 
 the distance of about a league below Burscheid, 
 is a small lake of tepid water, supplied by two 
 rivulets from the hot-springs of the neighbour- 
 ing mountains. This small lake is said to con- 
 tain a great number of pike, carp, tench, and 
 other fisli, which grow to an unusual size. Over 
 the surface of the water, as I was informed, may 
 frequently be seen hovering a thick and steamy 
 vapour. These two rivulets, afterwards uniting 
 with other streams, form a small river called the 
 Worm, which passes by Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 The day was now far advanced, and we re- 
 turned to the city, where we arrived just in time 
 
 VOL. I. o 
 
194 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO SPAA. 
 
 for the table d*h6te ; and after dinner, having, in 
 comphance with the general custom, adjourned 
 to the comfortless kaffe-haus to sip coffee, and 
 loiter over a dull and newsless newspa})er ; my 
 friend and I passed the remainder of the evening 
 in walking about the public promenades. But the 
 gay season had gone by, and the groves of lin- 
 den trees, and all the shady walks were tenant- 
 less and deserted. 
 
 Here, with many and mutual expressions of 
 satisfaction at the fortunate circumstance of our 
 meeting, my friend and I parted, and I returned 
 to the inn to make the necessary preparations 
 for my departure. 
 
 Friday, Sept, 28. Before day-light I was 
 seated in my carriage, on the road to Spaa. 
 For some distance around Aix-la-Chapelle, the 
 appearance of the country is highly picturesque 
 and beautiful, presenting a varied scene of 
 mountains and vallies, with comfortable farm- 
 houses, scattered amidst rich pastures and corn- 
 fields. The soil of tlie higlier land, however, 
 is light and sandy ; and after a long and toil- 
 some ascent through a deep sandy road, the 
 traveller sees before him a wide extent of ele- 
 vated and less fertile country. 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO SPAA. — HERRENH AUSEN. 1 95 
 
 Here he should be warned that he is entering 
 upon the territory of another sovereign, in order 
 to be prepared for the inconvenience which at- 
 tends this change. Presently, at a wretched 
 looking village, called, if I recollect rightly, 
 Herrenhausen, I was inlbrmed that I had now 
 entered " le royaume des pays-bas^" that I 
 must descend from my carriage, produce my 
 passport, and deliver up the keys of all my lug- 
 gage. As I had nothing to apprehend from this 
 investigation but the inconvenience of delay, I 
 immediately alighted, and proceeded to the 
 bureau, to request the favour that the inspection 
 of my baggage might be commenced and con- 
 cluded as quickly as suited the convenience of 
 messieurs les douaniers. But unfortunately, 
 upon entering, I forgot the ceremony of taking 
 off my hat, of which neglect I was soon, though 
 in no very polite manner, reminded ; and at the 
 same time I was given to understand by these 
 worthy officers of the crown, that my luggage 
 would be inspected at their pleasure. 
 
 I had already learnt that on these occasions 
 compliance is discretion ; and I therefore thought 
 this a good opportunity of looking out for 
 breakfast ; and so it proved in point of time, 
 though not of place, for I was detained here up- 
 wards of an hour, but could not procure a cup 
 
 o 2 
 
196 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO SPAA. BATICE. 
 
 of coffee that was even tolerable. Heartily 
 glad was I, when once more seated in my car- 
 riage, and fairly out of this accursed village of 
 insolence and filth, and roguery to boot ; for 
 upon the only article in my possession liable to 
 duty, viz. a small carriage blunderbuss, these 
 licensed rogues, as I afterwards discovered, 
 charged me six times the tariff rate. Thus much 
 to remind the traveller, to let his hat be in his 
 hand, not upon his head. 
 
 At the small town of Baticc, about tliree 
 leagues from Liege, the road turns off suddenly 
 to the left, and descends through some very 
 interesting scenery into a rich and fertile valley, 
 at the bottom of which stands the populous 
 town of Verviers, famous for its extensive and 
 excellent manufactories of woollen cloth. 
 
 There being in this town much to interest the 
 stranger, I stopped here to dine, and thus 
 gained a little time for looking about. 
 
 I was fortunate in meeting with an intelligent 
 and communicative person, engaged in one of 
 these works, from whom I received much inter- 
 esting information. From this informant I learnt 
 that the cloth made here is that which is held in 
 such general and high estimation throughout Eu- 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO SPAA. VERVIERS. 197 
 
 rope, under tlie name of French cloth, and that 
 from hence France is principally supplied. In 
 some of these works, he also informed me, that 
 between 4 and 500 men are kept in constant em- 
 ployment, and that the largest of these was con- 
 ducted by an Englishman. The number of in- 
 habitants is reckoned at about 1^,000. 
 
 Having attained the summit of the long and 
 steep ascent above this town, the traveller should 
 alight from his carriage to survey the beautifully 
 picturesque and varied scene around him. 
 
 At the bottom of the deep valley from which 
 he has just emerged, his eye will first catch the 
 holy spire rising from amidst the innumerable 
 houses of the populous and industrious town of 
 Verviers ; and around him he will see other val- 
 lies, encircled with bold and cultivated hills, and 
 little hamlets, or small groups of houses scat- 
 tered about the numerous fertile hollows, 
 which now lie open to his view. The whole 
 forms a delightful and varied panoramic scene, 
 and the flocks and herds of grazing cattle here, 
 declare the comfort and prosperity of the far- 
 mer's state. 
 
 Another long and steep ascent, however, 
 changes this scene of fertility and cultivation, 
 
 o S 
 
198 APPROACH TO SPAA, 
 
 and the traveller sees before him only a vast 
 extent of heathy country, boinided b}' lofty 
 mountains. After traversing for some leagues this 
 bleak and barren tract, he is apprized of his ap- 
 proach to Spaa by a long and rapid descent into 
 a narrow valley or ravine between the mountains, 
 the lower parts of which are clothed with the 
 most luxuriant woods, whilst above are seen pro- 
 jecting the high fantastic rocks in rugged naked- 
 ness. 
 
 The suddenness of the change, from an ex- 
 posed and barren heath into this fertile crevice 
 of the mountains, furnishes a contrast which 
 cannot fail to astonish and delight ; and for my- 
 self I can truly say, that this struck me as the 
 most romantic and picturesque scene which I 
 had hitherto witnessed on the continent, or per- 
 haps elsewhere. 
 
 After winding for some distance between these 
 lofty mountains, where space is left but just suffi- 
 cient for a narrow road, and lor the course of a 
 deep transparent stream, a sudden turn presents 
 to view a beautifully situated chateau, belonging 
 to an English gentleman, named Cockerell ; and 
 presently, turning a])rojccting corner of a moun- 
 tain, the traveller on a sudden finds himself in a 
 spacious level road, leading through avenues of 
 
SPAA. 199 
 
 linden trees, at the extremity of which is seen 
 the small, but celebrated town of Spaa, over- 
 hung by bold and lofty mountains, which so 
 effectually close in the scene, as apparently to 
 forbid all further progress. 
 
 On first entering this town, the stranger is 
 struck by the contrast of the numerous and 
 handsome hotels mixed up with a collection of 
 shabby houses, and mean little cottages, scat- 
 tered about with scarcely any distinguishable 
 claim to the form of a street, or the least regu- 
 larity of design. Whilst reflecting on the way- 
 wardness of mankind, (for I was just then 
 tliinking of the many lords and ladies who quit 
 tlieir gay towns and splendid mansions for the 
 attractions of this place,) my carriage stopped at 
 the hotel door, and I descended in the midst of 
 a numerous collection of very obsequious hum- 
 ble servants, all eager to pay their respects, and 
 to offer their services to the newly arrived stran- 
 ger. My host, however, foremost in the crowd, 
 soon cleared the way, and ushered me into a 
 room wdth as much form and ceremony as if I 
 had really been milord Anglais, thus bewailing 
 as we went, *' Ah, milord ! c*est dommage que 
 voiis ne soyez pas arrive plutot ! en verite tout 
 le monde est parti ! il ne r^este personne dans 
 laviller 
 
 o 4 
 
200 SPAA. MEDICINAL SPRINGS. 
 
 In due time I succeeded in stopping the good 
 man's lamentations on this account, by assuring 
 him that I came pour voir la ville, et pas pour 
 voir le monde ; that I was not milord, but gentil- 
 homme Anglais ; and that if he would gi\'e me 
 good accommodation for a day or two on rea- 
 sonable terms, I should be very well contented. 
 After which, ordering a supper ' comme ilfaut' 
 with a bottle of ' vin ordinaire' and another 
 de meilleure qualite, I found tliat I had about 
 two hours at my disposal before dark. 
 
 The principal, and, I believe, I may say, the 
 only public building likely to attract the stran- 
 ger's notice, with the exception of an old church, 
 remarkable for its ugliness, is a neat stone edi- 
 fice erected over one of the four medicinal 
 springs, called Pouhon, which rises in tlie in- 
 terior of the town. This is a plain square 
 building, with a large open vestibule, supported 
 by handsome stone pillars; and from the whole 
 appearance, and the inscription, * Pierre le 
 Grandy over the entrance, it is, 1 presume, in- 
 tended to represent a temple dedicated to the 
 great Czar, wlio is said to have been benefited 
 by the w^aters of this spring. 
 
 The Pouhon spring seems to be the one most 
 in repute. It is a chalybeate, containing a con- 
 
SPAA. — MEDICINAL SPRINGS. 201 
 
 siclerable quantity of carbonic acid gas, and 
 wlien drawn from the bottle effervesces, and 
 very much resembles Celtzer water, like which 
 it is exported in stone bottles in large quantities. 
 The taste of this water, however, as taken from 
 the spring, is nauseous enough. 
 
 The three other principal springs are called 
 Geronstere, Sauveniere, and Tonnelet, all of 
 which are said to possess certain differences of 
 quality ; and the nature of the complaint must 
 be quite new, if one of these mineral springs be 
 not recommended as particularly efficacious. 
 However, not having had occasion to practice 
 any experiments with these waters upon myself, 
 and sincerely hoping that I never may, I dismiss 
 the subject by referring those whom it may con- 
 cern to the little printed account which every 
 visitor to Spaa will easily procure, and where will 
 be found a full description of these several 
 springs, their properties and wonderful effects ; 
 and now I hasten back to my hotel, with an 
 appetite, thank God, not requiring such, or any 
 other artificial aid. 
 
 As the conversation with my host during 
 dinner caused a change in my plans, which led 
 to an incident forming a feature in my subse- 
 quent narrative, I must here give the result of 
 
202 SPAA. 
 
 tliis conversation by way of explanation. In tlie 
 first place, then, I should state, that when I left 
 Cologne, for the purpose of visiting Aix-la- 
 Chapelle and Spaa, it was with the intention of 
 returning to the Rhine across the country from 
 Spaa to Bonn. 
 
 As this line seemed very convenient on the 
 map, I never doubted that it would be equally 
 convenient in reality ; and it was therefore with 
 some surprize I now learnt that no such road 
 existed, or, rather, no practicable road for a car- 
 riage, and that my nearest route would be to 
 return to Cologne by the same road by which I 
 had left it. This being the case, I came to the 
 determination of abridging the intended length 
 of my visit here, and of making the best of my 
 way back to Cologne. The loss of time was 
 vexatious and disappointing to me, but there 
 seemed to be no remedy, and so I retired to 
 bed. 
 
 Saturday^ Sept. 29. Rose with the first dawn 
 of morning, to make the most of the short time 
 which remained to me for viewing the beautiful 
 environs of Spaa. 
 
 Most of the neighbouring hills and mountains 
 are clothed with native wood and heath, and 
 
SPAA. PROMENADES. 203 
 
 many of them are rendered accessible by winding 
 paths, which, ornamented by the hand of art, 
 are converted into shady and agreeable pro- 
 menades. But amidst these are seen other moun- 
 tains so abrupt and rugged, that nature seems to 
 have consigned them to a state of nakedness 
 everlasting ; and thus the whole scene is one of 
 boldness, variety, and picturesque effect. 
 
 After enjoying for some time from these 
 mountain tops a view over the surrounding 
 country, now brightened by the cheering rays 
 of morning sun, the pure air at lengtli reminded 
 me of breakfast, and, descending, I returned to 
 the inn. 
 
 I now learnt that a diligence would set out 
 from Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle to-day at two 
 o'clock ; and accordingly deciding to take the 
 benefit of this public conveyance, I gave orders, 
 though to the evident discomposure of my host, 
 that a carriage might be in readiness at eleven 
 o'clock to convey me and my baggage back 
 to Verviers. 
 
 This arrangement made, I had two hours at 
 my further disposal, which I occupied in visiting 
 the various promenades at the outskirts of the 
 town, and other places of fashionable resort. 
 
204 SPAA. SALON DE JEU. 
 
 Amongst these was, of course, included the 
 celebrated Salon de Jeu ; but it was now quite 
 deserted, except by the persons to whom the 
 table belonged, and two or three hired decoys. 
 Immediately upon my entrance I observed an 
 appearance of play commenced ; but on stating 
 that I was a stranger, who came merely to look 
 round the room, at the same time begging that 
 I might not put them to any unnecessary trouble, 
 even this pretence was discontinued, and the 
 men resumed their conversation with the most 
 perfect indifference. This room is very spacious 
 and elegant, far too much so for the purposes to 
 which it is applied. 
 
 The mineral springs seem to be the only 
 sources of wealth and importance to this town, 
 for besides a few^ trifling manufactories of work- 
 boxes, snuff-boxes, toys, and various other little 
 articles of varnished wood, known by the name 
 of Spaa ware, there appears to be nothing in the 
 way of trade. 
 
 Having now made my few cursory observations 
 upon this celebrated place of resort to the fa- 
 shionables of Europe, it is time to hasten away. 
 
 On returning to the inn, I found my carriage 
 at the door, and all my luggage stowed, so that 
 
SPAA TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. *205 
 
 it only remained to settle the reckoning with my 
 host, and to say * bonjour* This being done, 
 I was just about to step into tlie carriage, when 
 I saw from my coachman's maimer tliat he had 
 some request to make, w^hicli lie was lialf afraid 
 would not be granted. Sli^'lit encouraorement, 
 however, emboldened the man to speak, and it 
 at last came out, that he wanted my permission 
 to accommodate a lady witli a seat in my car- 
 riage as far as Verviers. 
 
 It happened that compliance with this request 
 was particularly inconvenient, for the vehicle was 
 a caleche, made for the accommodation only of 
 two persons, and the place of one was ah-eady 
 occupied by part of my baggage. 
 
 However, a lady being in the case, I felt 
 inclined to put myself to some inconvenience, 
 and enquiring whetlier, in point of fact, this 
 were such a lady as an English gentleman would 
 like for a companion in a crowded carriage, I 
 received in reply, " Ah! majoi, monsieur, c'est 
 une bien brave femme — ." This decided me — I 
 stepped in, and signifying my consent, we drove 
 off. Presently the carriage stopped, and it was 
 not without some alarm I saw that this was be- 
 fore the door of a little cabar^et a bierre, corre- 
 sponding with our hedge alehouse. After a few 
 
206 SPAA TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 minutes ofpainful anxiety, all my apprehensions 
 were confirmed, for fi-om imder this liumble roof 
 came stepping out, with many signs and tokens 
 of farewell to those she left behind, a little old 
 woman, with a reticLde in one hand, and a small 
 bundle tied up in a pocket handkerchief, in the 
 other. 
 
 This was sufficient to declare the rank in life 
 of my traveUing companion, and needed not the 
 further evidence of a gown of russet black, nor 
 under garments peeping forth to shew their 
 thread-bare faces. 
 
 One other fact remained to be ascertained, — 
 one hope alone existed ! But alas ! one glance 
 at her wrinkled face, declared her age, and left 
 me hopeless. 
 
 So violent and sudden was my chagrin and 
 disappointment at the sight of this " biYive 
 femme,'' that I had all but pronounced a reversal 
 of my decree in her favour, on the ground that it 
 had been obtained from me by surprise and 
 fraud. But when the poor old woman came 
 tripping forward, and, with an air so humble and 
 yet so earnest, thanked me for this act of kind- 
 ness and condescension, had she poisoned the 
 very air around with garlic fumes, I could not 
 
SPAA TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 207 
 
 have found heart to have retracted. The car- 
 riage door opened, and with a sigh I handed 
 the fair one in, but with as stern a countenance 
 as I could put on, I tried to catch my coach- 
 man's eye ; but it was in vain, the rogue hung 
 down his head, and never once looked up until 
 fairly seated on his box, and we were again 
 en route. 
 
 After proceeding for a short distance my situ- 
 ation became so irksome, that whilst the carriage 
 was crawling up a steep hill, I took this oppor- 
 tunity of calling to the coachman to alight and 
 let me out ; at the same time explaining to my 
 female companion, that as there was rather a 
 want of accommodation for two persons, and as 
 the weather and the face of the country were so 
 charming, I should proceed the rest of the way 
 on foot. So wishing the old lady a pleasant ride, 
 and directing tlie driver where to put up, accom- 
 panied with a look, w'hich his half-grinning 
 countenance plainly explained was understood, 
 I set out, and soon from afar off, I saw the car- 
 riage still slowly winding up the hill. 
 
 The walk proved very agreeable, and the hills 
 enabled me to keep so well up with the vehicle, 
 that about ten minutes after it, I entered once 
 more the town of Verviers. 
 
208 SPAA TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 In about half an hour after my arrival I was 
 seated in the diligence for Aix-la-Chapelle ; but, 
 as I have already described this route, I sliall 
 hasten to set myself down again in the imperial 
 city. 
 
 This part of the day's journey, if it furnished me 
 with but few incidents, afforded me ample leisure 
 for my own reflections ; for although there were 
 two other travellers in the diligence besides my- 
 self^ yet these were two English gentlemen, and 
 I was a stranger to them. From the circum- 
 stance of occasional remarks passing between 
 themselves, it was pretty evident that they were 
 friends, or acquaintances, or at least that they 
 had been introduced to each other. But as I 
 had no such claim to notice tiom either of them, 
 and as I was evidently by many years the 
 youngest of the party, it seemed to me that I had 
 only to preserve respectful silence. Hour after 
 hour had passed away, and I had neither spoken 
 nor been spoken to, when one of the gentlemen 
 observing to the other, that he wondered which 
 was the best inn at Aix-la-Chapelle, it occurred 
 to me that they might be thinking as I was, what 
 great simpletons we all were, and therefore, 
 taking this as an invitation to speak, I ac- 
 cordingly ventured to recommend the " Golden 
 Dragon," as an hotel where, I could say, 
 
SPAA TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 209 
 
 from experience, they would find very comfort- 
 able accommodation. A recognizing bend for- 
 ward, and a " thank-ye," which may have been 
 intended to convey either the interrogatory of 
 *' Who spoke to you ? " or the complimentary re- 
 turn of " I am much obliged," was the reply. 
 Which of these two senses was really intended, 
 1 never knew, for this was the commencement 
 and conclusion of our conversation. 
 
 About ten o'clock the diligence stopped at the 
 place of its destination, and after having been 
 shut up in close companionship with my two 
 fellow-travellers for nearly eight hours, we now 
 stepped out and separated without another 
 word. 
 
 Well, " chacun a son gout^'' though this is 
 not according to my notion of agreeable ; and 
 travelling on the continent, I must confess, 
 would indeed be irksome, at least to me, if all 
 my companions on the road were like these two ; 
 for I can say with the good old Vicar of Wake- 
 field, " It has been my constant rule in life never 
 to avoid the conversation of any man who seem- 
 ed to desire it." 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 30. Rose at four o'clock, and 
 saw my luggage safely stowed in the huge 
 
 VOL. I. p 
 
210 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 
 
 vehicle in wliich, an hour afterwards, I took my 
 seat with five others, as yet strangers to me, 
 under the veil of night. As morning advanced, 
 and the Hght of day increased, I became better 
 acquainted with the exterior appearance of my 
 fellow-travellers ; and as two of these will ajipear 
 in many of the subsequent pages of my Journal, 
 I must here beg leave to introduce them to the 
 reader with a few personal remarks. These were 
 two young military-looking men, with large mus- 
 tachios, and altogether presenting a ^'ery martial 
 appearance. The elder, apparently about two 
 or three and thirty years of age, bore evident 
 marks of having been in the wars, and although 
 somewhat disfigured by the loss of part of his 
 left cheek, yet there was a bright and lively eye; 
 and notwithstanding the formidable mustachios, 
 a mild expression of countenance, which goes 
 far to conciliate even at first sight. The younger, 
 about five and twenty in appearance, carried 
 more of the fierce and martial air of the German 
 soldier, and more of the German taciturnity and 
 resei've. 
 
 There are so many thousand ways of shewing 
 an inclination to good fellowsliip, that in all situ- 
 ations, when there is the will, opportunities are 
 never wanting. 
 
ATX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 211 
 
 Scarcely had the hght of day made iis ac- 
 quainted with each other's appearance, before 
 the eldest of these my two fellow-travellers found 
 opportunities for shewing such inchnation, by 
 various little courteous attentions, but free from 
 the slightest obtrusiveness of manner ; and by the 
 time that we had breakfasted, and were re-seated 
 in the diligence, we seemed to have become 
 acquainted, and the younger companion had laid 
 aside much of what appeared to be a natural 
 reserve of manner. I will not attempt to enu- 
 merate our various topics of conversation through 
 the day ; it will be sufficient here to say, that I 
 found in these two young officers very agreeable 
 companions, and in the elder in particular, who 
 had seen much of the continent, a well-informed 
 and observant man. I also learnt in the course 
 of the day's journej' that these were two brothers, 
 who had obtained leave of absence from their 
 regiments, and were now on their way home to 
 Croire in the grisons of Switzerland. This was 
 a joyous occasion, and likely to call forth the 
 good qualities of the heart to those around ; for 
 besides parents and snowy mountains, so dear to 
 every true Swiss, the elder of these two brothers 
 was returning, not only to parents and native 
 mountains, but, as he himself described, to an 
 anxiously expecting wife and child, whom- he 
 had not seen for three long years. He informed 
 
 p 2 
 
212 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 
 
 me, that he liad been bred up to war from early 
 youth ; that he now held tlie rank of captain in 
 the service of the King of Bavaria ; and that his 
 title was the Chevalier de Salis Soglio, a branch 
 of the celebrated and ancient family of the 
 Counts de Salis. He had served in many of 
 Buonaparte's campaigns ; and it was in the 
 battle of Hanau that a musket-ball carried aw^ay 
 part of his cheek. 
 
 All this communication required something in 
 return from me ; and as it appeared tliat for 
 some distance we should be pursuing the same 
 route, it was proposed and agreed that as long 
 as it might be mutually convenient, we should 
 all three proceed together. 
 
 Much of our conversation now turned upon 
 the beauties of the country of the Rhine, up 
 which we were soon to navigate ; and the eldest 
 of these two brothers being, as he informed me, 
 well acquainted with every bend, and with all the 
 legendary lore of this bright full-flowing magic 
 river, with the name of every mountain which 
 rises from its enchanted banks, and with the 
 history of every ancient cliateauin the sheltered 
 valley, and of every ruined tower on the gloomy 
 heights above, he lioped, if such sights, with 
 tales of other times, had ought of interest for me, 
 
COLOGNE. 213 
 
 that I might find him not witliout some recom- 
 mendations as a compagnon de voyage, at least 
 as far as we, probably, should proceed together. 
 
 Such was my introduction and firstacquaintance 
 with these two young officers, in whose company 
 I passed an agreeable day, and who afterwards 
 proved themselves to me useful and interesting 
 companions ; and such was the contrast with my 
 travelling companions of yesterday. 
 
 Between five and six o'clock I again entered 
 the town of Cologne, and putting myself under 
 the guidance of my new acquaintances, we pro- 
 ceeded with our baggage to an inn where, with 
 respect to accommodation, I had no reason to 
 repent of my submission ; and with respect to 
 charge, I learnt the advantage of being in the 
 company of persons who talked the German 
 language, and were acquainted with German 
 prices. 
 
 After dinner we proceeded to make enquiries 
 about the packet-boat up the Rhine to Mayence ; 
 and learning that one started the next morning at 
 six o'clock, we sallied forth to procure an inter- 
 view with the master of the boat, and, finally, 
 arranged for embarking with him at the hour 
 appointed. 
 
 p 3 
 
214 COLOGNE. 
 
 The remainder of the evening was spent in 
 walking about Cologne, and on our way back to 
 the inn we looked in at a bookseller's shop, where 
 we lounged away some time over an immense 
 collection of books, in almost all the written 
 languages of the earth. A little book of poems, 
 in the German language, happening to lie before 
 us, my friend the captain put it into my hand as 
 the production of his father-in-law, J. G. Von 
 Salis. 
 
 I shall never forget the surprize and pleasure 
 depicted in the bookseller's face at seeing before 
 him so near a connection of, to use his own 
 words, " un hoimne le plus refiomme de tons les 
 poetes modernes de rAllemagne. — " I, of course, 
 could not do less than lay down the price of the 
 book ; and although I may never be able to 
 read it, yet I shall always be well pleased to 
 have in my possession this memento of a person 
 from whom I afterwards parted with more regret 
 than I have felt on parting with an older ac- 
 quaintance. 
 
215 
 
 THE RHINE VOYAGE. 
 
 Monday, Oct. 1. At six o'clock this morning 
 we were in the bark, which was stoutly moored 
 in the strong current just under the walls of 
 Cologne. Presently two horses were attached 
 by a long rope, and then commenced the bustle 
 of launching out into the wide and rapid 
 stream. * 
 
 The bark is a long and narrow vessel, con- 
 taining two cabins ; one being for those who can 
 afford twelve francs for their passage ; the other, 
 for those whose poverty forces them to put up 
 with less accommodation, and to construct tables 
 and chairs out of the boxes and baggage of their 
 more fortunate fellow-passengers. Beyond this 
 is a sort of recess where the cooking operations 
 are carried on. The accommodation for all, 
 however, is bad enough. 
 
 * Since these notes were written, I accidentally met with 
 a series of twenty-four views on the Rhine, lately published 
 by Mr: Ackermann,and I had the curiosity to compare them 
 with my description of the scenery which they are intended 
 to represent. If any one should find sufficient interest in 
 tracing the similarity of the images created in the mind by 
 the pencil and the pen, he will have no difficulty in assigning 
 to each view the position it would take if introduced in its 
 proper place in this volume. I should consider it as a poor 
 compliment to myself, to point out by more particular refer- 
 ence these positions. 
 
 p 4 
 
216 THE RHINE VOYAGE. THE BARK. 
 
 Ha^Tng introduced the reader to our bark, I 
 must now introduce him to the company in 
 which he is likely to continue for some few days. 
 
 To begin, then, I must first mention a lady, 
 of respectable and rather pretty appearance, 
 with her two little children; next, a quiet sort 
 of gentleman, of mercantile demeanour, with his 
 little boy ; and, next in order, a young woman, 
 entrusted with the care of herself; then follow, 
 a lean and sallow-faced man, but who appeared 
 to be a very good sort of person, and, as I after- 
 wards learnt, a comedian, about to join his com- 
 pany at Basle, from whom he had been separated 
 by bad health ; lastly, and certainly the least 
 agreeable, a vulgar, bawling Englishman, who 
 soon informed me that he was engaged very 
 extensively in the bookselling line, that the 
 way of his trade kept him much on the continent, 
 and that he had now been absent a long time 
 from dear old England. Would that you had 
 been there now, thought I to myself, or any 
 where but here. 
 
 Such, with the exception of a few others in 
 the second cabin, or baggage-room, was our 
 party on quitting Cologne. Some few additions 
 to our number occurred in the course of the 
 passage ; but of these hereafter. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM COLOGNE. '217 
 
 Now fairly launched upon the broad deep 
 stream, and cutting through the strong opposing 
 current of its bright blue waters, I watched the 
 receding steeples of Cologne, glittering under a 
 brilliant morning sun, until a bend in the river's 
 course shut out this city and its steeples from 
 my view. 
 
 All the party were now variously occupied in 
 the cabin below. The lady w^as engaged with 
 her two children ; the young woman with a 
 German book, no doubt, a novel ; the English- 
 man had spread his length along a bench, and, 
 under the cover of a Scotch plaid travelling- 
 cloak, was trying to compose himself to sleep 
 (for frequent twists and tiu'ns shewed that he 
 had not yet succeeded) ; all the other male part 
 of this little comnumity, including my two ac- 
 quaintances, were quietly engaged in puffing 
 into each other's faces such copious streams of 
 tobacco-smoke, as soon filled this small apart- 
 ment with a dense white cloud, and drove me 
 upon deck, where, alone and unobserved, I took 
 my seat. 
 
 There was something so conducive to con- 
 templation in every object in tliis placid scene, 
 that to be alone just now produced a charm 
 which, whilst it seemed to heighten in effect all 
 
218 THE RHINE VOYAGE. BONN. 
 
 Nature's works around, seemed yet as if depend- 
 ent for its existence upon being enjoyed alone. 
 
 The boatmen, now relieved from work, were 
 reclining witli folded arms below ; whilst the 
 steersman, resting on his helm, with ])i})e in 
 mouth, seemed to be performing a routine of 
 duty, in which frequent use supplied the want 
 of thought. 
 
 There is nothing, however, particularly strik- 
 ing in the appearance of the country here, 
 which is rather level, and the high sandy banks 
 on either side the river bespeak no great fertility 
 of soil. But the Rhine itself, sweeping along in 
 its broad clear course, is a noble sight, well cal- 
 culated to prepare the mind of the stranger for 
 the wonders of the scenery to come. 
 
 After turnins^ another sudden bend in the 
 Rhine, the striking objects which arrest the 
 attention are the tops of seven high mountains, 
 marking afar off the river's course. The first 
 town of any importance is Bonn, which is built 
 on a declivity, down to the water's edge. The 
 crowd of blueish slated roofs, contrasted with 
 the clean wliite a})pearance of the houses, form 
 an interesting object in the distance ; and, owing 
 
THE RHINE VOYAGE. BONN. 219 
 
 to the river's widened course in the front of 
 the town, the whole view improves on a nearer 
 approach. The effect produced by the glowing 
 rays of an unclouded sun upon the wide ex- 
 panse of blue transparent water, as we stemmed 
 its sweeping current, to bring -to alongside the 
 town, was brilliant, soft, and beautiful in the 
 extreme. The appearance of the country is no 
 longer poor and naked. Fertile meadows, in- 
 terspersed with shady trees, and numerous vil- 
 lages, with detached habitations scattered along 
 the banks, give an air of cheerfidness and com- 
 fort to the scene. 
 
 Having fastened our bark along side the little 
 quay of Bonn, we now all stepped on shore to 
 dine. The way being led to a neighbouring 
 auberge^ I followed, and we came in for the last 
 course of a table (Thote. The table was occupied 
 principally by young men in strange fantastic 
 dresses, who, as I afterwards learned, were 
 students of the university here. The dishes were 
 now quickly reproduced, but as our boatman 
 had informed us that the utmost law he could 
 afford, would be trois qum^ts d^heure, I made 
 short work of this meal, and sallied forth to catch 
 such a glimpse of the town and its environs as 
 time permitted. 
 
THE RIIIXE VOYAGE. BOXX. 
 
 The streets are dark, narrow, and irregular, 
 and the liouses, however respectable lor age, 
 are for the most j)art sufficiently mean in exte- 
 rior appearance. They tell you, here, of many 
 handsome buildings, and various other objects 
 of attraction, but I found them not, — to be sure, 
 I had little opportunity. The university is the 
 principal building ; but I was chiefly struck 
 with the ancient castle, the view from the ram- 
 parts of which is remarkably fine. 
 
 At the expiration of the time allotted I was 
 at the river side. Some of the party had al- 
 ready resumed their places in the bark, and the 
 remainder presently coming up, in a few mi- 
 nutes we had slipped our moorings, and were 
 again stemming the rapid current. 
 
 Here may be considered as commencmg the 
 beauties of the Rhine; and my two military 
 companions took their seats beside me on the 
 deck to enjoy these beauties (for which frequent 
 repetition had not yet destroyed their relish) 
 and to point them out to me. 
 
 The river still continues of a noble width, and 
 numerous villages are thickly dotted along the 
 bright water's edge on either side. The coun- 
 try here presents a more hilly appearance ; and 
 
GODESBURG. — KoNIGSWINTER. 221 
 
 at a short distance above Bonn, near the httle 
 village of Godesburg, is a mountain, on which 
 are seen tlie ruins of an ancient castle, supposed 
 to be, as my elder friend informed me, of Roman 
 origin. About a league higher up, on the op- 
 posite side of the river, is the small town of 
 Konigswinter, where commences what is called 
 the Valley of the Rhine. Here the undulating 
 hills assume the bolder shape of mountains, 
 which, gradually approaching, contract the 
 river's course. The green meadows now give 
 way to the brown mountain pastures, and the 
 rugged summits of the seven ynountains throw 
 around an air of grandeur, which prepares the 
 mind of the traveller for the change of scenery 
 at hand. 
 
 Konigswinter is situated at the foot of lofty 
 hills, covered with vineyards. Just above this 
 town begins the range of mountains, visible 
 so far off by their seven lofty tops ; and the ef- 
 fect, as w^e stemmed the rushing current under 
 the gloom of these stupendous objects, was most 
 impressive. 
 
 My companion, who had already proved him- 
 self no less friendly than useful, now distin- 
 guished these seven peaks by their respective 
 names, and pointed out many interesting par- 
 
222 THE RHINE VOYAGE. 
 
 ticulars, wliicli probably would otherwise iKue 
 escaped my notice. The most remarkable of 
 these seven heights is called the Drachenfels, 
 on the lofty summit of which is a ruin so corres- 
 ponding with the grey appearance and shapeless 
 ruggedness of tlie rock itself j as scarcely to be 
 distinguished from it. 
 
 To this grey ruin is attached a legend w^hich, 
 at a more convenient opportunity for listening, 
 my friend promised to relate. Adjoining the 
 height of Drachenfels is that of Wolkenbourg, 
 signifying " the castle of the clouds/' from the 
 circumstance of a castle formerly standing on this 
 lofty summit. On the right of the Draclienfels, 
 and inclining towards the Rhine, is the rounded 
 head of Stromberg, on which is just visible a 
 little grey stone building, being, as I was in- 
 formed, formerly a chapel, dedicated some hun- 
 dreds of years ago to St. Peter, by certain hermits 
 of the Augustine order. Behind these three 
 mountains rise four others, and highest of all 
 the seven is tiiat called Lowenberg, or Lions' 
 Mountain. Each of these seems formerly to 
 have boasted of its strong castle ; but the grey 
 ruins, naked to the storm, or sheltered in thick 
 brushwood, now serve only to carry back the 
 recollection of the traveller to the ages past, and 
 to remind him of the change of times. 
 
LE DRACHENFELS. 223 
 
 Our bark was cutting lightly through the 
 opposing current, but the gloomy peak of Dra- 
 chenfels, with its grey mouldering ruin, was yet 
 in view ; and as I thought the sight would aid 
 the- story, for *' fictions to please sliould wear 
 the face of truth," I gave my companion to 
 understand that I was now quite ready for his 
 traditionary lore. Those who feel otherwise 
 inclined may therefore turn over the two fol- 
 lowing pages together, for being pleased with the 
 tradition, I took the first opportunity, whilst the 
 story was in recollection, of recording it in my 
 mother tongue, and here it is : 
 
 LE DRACHENFELS. 
 
 Tn olden times, according to ancient tradition, 
 the cavern which is seen on the top of this moun- 
 tain served for a retreat to a monstrous dragon, 
 to which the inhabitants of the neighbourhood 
 rendered divine honours, and offered human 
 victims, who were generally the prisoners taken 
 in war. These, according to the opinion of the 
 inhabitants, were the most acceptable offerings 
 to their horrible divinity. 
 
 One day they found amongst their captives a 
 young female, the daughter of a neighbouring 
 
221< LE DRACHENFELS. 
 
 chiefi and brought u}) in the Christian worship. 
 After much dissension amongst the young war- 
 riors as to wliom the right of property in this 
 prize should belong, it was decided by the elders, 
 in order to prevent further discord, that the 
 young virgin should be offered to the dragon. 
 
 Clothed in white, and crowned with flowers, 
 the beautiful captive was conducted to the top 
 of the mountain, and there bound to a tree near 
 the entrance of the monster's cave. At the foot 
 of this tree was a large stone, which served for 
 an altar. Numbers of people had assembled at 
 a distance to witness the frightful spectacle, and 
 there were few hearts so insensible to pity as not 
 to deplore the unhappy fate of this lovely victim. 
 But she was calm, and in pious attitude her eyes 
 were fixed on heaven. 
 
 In the mean time the first rays of the sun 
 began to dart upon the summits of the moun- 
 tains to the east, and to pierce the obscure 
 entrance of the frightful cavern. Soon tlie 
 monster, with glaring eyes, saw the expected 
 offering, and, with hastened pace and extended 
 jaws, advanced. The lovely and pious maid now 
 drew from her breast an image of the .Sa\iour, 
 and at the last moment, in firm reliance, placed 
 the holy figure before the scaly beast. The 
 
LE DRACHENFELS. — HONNEF. 225 
 
 dragon started back, terrified, and, raising the 
 most horrible hissing, precipitated itself into a 
 neighbouring and profound abyss, never more 
 to be seen or heard. 
 
 The people, stupified at the sight of this mi- 
 raculous deliverance, hastened to unbind the 
 young Christian, and beheld with astonishment 
 the little crucifix. But the captive instructed 
 them in the subject of her faith, and iiv the 
 power of Him whom she adored, when the mul- 
 titude, falling at her feet, supplicated for instruc- 
 tion in this new belief. 
 
 In the place where the stone had stood, which 
 served as an altar to the dragon, a small chapel 
 was soon afterwards erected, and the ruins now 
 mark the spot where Christianity was first estab- 
 lished in these districts. 
 
 At a small village, about half a league from 
 Konigswinter, the seven mountains terminate ; 
 but these only give place to the gloomy heights 
 of Honnef. Here the Rhine, dividing into two 
 streams, forms the beautiful little island of 
 Nonnenworth, wliere, peeping between the trees, 
 is seen the dark slated roof of a decaying convent, 
 yet inhabited by a few of the remaining sister- 
 
 VOL. I. Q 
 
226 ISLAND OF NONNEN WORTH. 
 
 hood, who, deprived of then- right of property in 
 the rich little territory around them, are graci- 
 ously permitted to enjoy it lunnolested during 
 the continuance of their penance here on eaith. 
 
 Above this island rises the lofty and gloomy 
 mountain of Rolandseck ; and upon its dark and 
 dizzy height are seen, looking down upon the 
 convent, a few grey mouldering walls, all that 
 now remains of Roland's castle. The whole 
 scene is so full of striking contrasts and romantic 
 effect, that it could not be without its traditionary 
 interest. This is, in fact, the scene of one of the 
 most popular and pleasing traditions of theRliine, 
 and one which even the poetic genius of Schiller 
 thought not undeserving his attention. 
 
 My companion had excited my curiosity. I 
 felt as if living in the early age of chivalry, as 
 if lost in the delusions of romance ; and whilst 
 yet passing through the gloom which this lofty 
 mountain throws around, I was all attention to 
 the following tradition, which is handed down 
 concerning the ancient castle of Roland, called 
 
 LE ROLANDSECK. 
 
 The valiant chevalier Roland, nephew of 
 Charlemagne, wearied with the long repose of 
 peace, sought to pass away his time in \ isiting 
 the beautiful country of the Rhine. Surprised 
 
LE ROLANDSECK. 227 
 
 by night at the entrance of a burg, he demand- 
 ed hospitahty, and was received with that noble 
 frankness, which, in those days of chivahy, every 
 gallant knight was sure to find. The master of 
 the chateau shook him heartily by the hand, as if 
 he had found a friend of his younger days, and 
 Hildegonde, his daughter, in all the grace and 
 elegance of lovely youth, served him with bread 
 and wine, — the first offering of hospitality. With 
 a modesty which heightened the carnation of her 
 unfolding charms, the fair Hildegonde presented 
 the cup of wine, and Roland accepted it, strange 
 to say, with a trembling hand, and countenance 
 abashed. " What ! '* said he to himself, " is this 
 the hand which has so often wielded the firm 
 cymeter ? Is this the countenance which has 
 viewed so many hordes of Saracens unmoved ?" 
 Tlius he recovered his wonted character, and 
 passed the remainder of the evening with the hos- 
 pitable master in talking over feats of war, and 
 the grand objects of the noble Charlemagne. 
 
 They retired for the night, but Roland closed 
 not his eyes ; the image of the lovely Hilde- 
 gonde was ever before him. On the following 
 morning he prepared to take his leave, and wish- 
 ins; to avoid the honors which w^ould be shower- 
 ed down upon him if recognized in these coun- 
 tries, he with difficulty declared his name. The 
 
 Q 2 
 
2^8 LE ROLANDSECK. 
 
 old master, transported at possessing in his lioiise 
 the flower of chivalry, ])ressed him, and obtained 
 his promise to remain another day. Hildegonde, 
 with downcast eyes, said not a word ; but it was 
 easy to see that the stranger's stay did not dis- 
 please her. Roland most willingly acquiesced ; 
 his passion had now increased so higli as to carry 
 him over first timidity. He only waited a flu or- 
 able opportunity to declare himself a lover ; and 
 a favorable opportunity occurred. Walking in 
 the garden, he found the fair Hildegonde seated 
 under a shady tree, her eyes fixed upon heaven, 
 and her hands joined in the attitude of prayer. 
 Roland approached her, but he knew not how to 
 commence the conversation. Hildegonde saw a 
 rose upon a neighbouring bush, and advanced to 
 pluck it : Roland begged it. "Until now," said 
 he, " no sign or token of remembrance decorates 
 my helmet plume, and when the knights vaunt 
 the graces and virtues of their chosen fair, with 
 downcast eyes my empty heart i-e])lies not." Tlie 
 lovely and blushing Hildegonde lumg her head. 
 One movement of the hand seemed to give the 
 rose, and another modestly uithdr.ew it; but 
 raising her eyes upon the expressive countenance 
 of Roland, she yielded the valued present. Ro- 
 land, emboldened, spoke of love ; and Hilde- 
 gonde with a look, told him he was repaid. 
 The two lovers now swore eternal fidelity ; and 
 
LE ROLANDSECK. 2^9 
 
 Roland obtained lier promise, that after his re. 
 tiu'n from the campaign against the Infidels, their 
 nuptials sliould be celebrated. Their farewell 
 was a calm, but mournful scene ; a simple pres» 
 sure of the hand was all that passed, but their 
 eyes spoke eloquently what it was impossible to 
 express. 
 
 Hildegonde passed the time of absence in pro^ 
 found retirement. She lived only to think every 
 day of the news she expected of her lover. The 
 news at last arriv ed — sanguinary conflicts, peril- 
 ous encounters, traits of heroic valour, and al- 
 ways the name of Roland in every mouth ; his 
 exploits were the burden of every boatman's 
 song upon the Rhine. 
 
 In the mean time months rolled on, and after 
 a long year of absence, the happy news Arrived 
 of a glorious peace, which was to bring back the 
 hero crowned with laurels. 
 
 One evening there arrived at the burg a 
 knight covered with dust, who demanded hospi- 
 tality. This was one of the companions in arms 
 of the brave Roland. Anxious, and agitated 
 wdth a sad foreboding, Hildegonde ventured to 
 speak of Roland. Alas ! the stranger knight 
 had seen him fall at his side covered with wounds 
 
 Q 3 
 
QSO LE ROLANDSECK. 
 
 and glory. Hildegonde spoke not, — shed not a 
 tear. Motionless, as if under the sudden stroke 
 of death, she sat like one of those marble images 
 which guard the silent tomb. Eight days after- 
 wards she obtained the permission of her father 
 to enter the cloister, and to take the veil in the 
 neisrhbourino; convent of Frauenworth. The 
 superior, related to the family, permitted Hilde- 
 gonde to abridge the term of her noviciate, and 
 three months had scarcely elapsed before she had 
 pronounced her vows, which hid lier from tlie 
 world for ever. Lamentable precipitation, which 
 caused the misery of two faithful lovers ! 
 
 Roland arrived suddenly at the burg which 
 his faitliful Hildegonde had just abandoned. He 
 came now to conduct her to the altar. He had 
 fallen exhausted under his wounds : a state of 
 lethargy arising from extreme weakness, had oc- 
 casioned the report of his death, but the assidu- 
 ous cares bestowed upon the mucli-cherished 
 hero, had restored him to life. 
 
 He learnt that indissoluble bonds had sepa- 
 rated him for ever from his beloved Hildegonde. 
 The trophies which he had brought with him 
 from the field of glory to place at the feet of her 
 whom he was never more to see, he now hurled 
 into the Rhine j and no hope, no wish remaining 
 
LE ROLANDSECK. 231 
 
 for him in the world, upon the lofty summit of 
 a gloomy rock, since called Rolandseck, at the 
 foot of which is the convent of Frauenworth, he 
 built a castle, where he determined to pass the 
 remainder of his life. 
 
 Day after day were the eyes of Roland direct- 
 ed from his solitary mansion towards the convent 
 beneath. At morning dawn he rose to catch 
 the angelic sounds ascending from the vaulted 
 choir below, and all that now remained to Ro- 
 land of life's enjoyment, was the pleasing fancy 
 which distinguished amongst the voices, that of 
 Hildegonde. 
 
 Two years had thus passed away, when one 
 morning Roland, directing his eyes as usual up- 
 on the convent, saw the preparation for a tomb. 
 A secret voice seemed to whisper — it is for 
 Hildegonde : he sent to enquire, and received 
 the news of her death. 
 
 For the first time, Roland now descended up- 
 on the holy spot, which hitherto he had feared 
 to profane by the presence of a heart, agitated 
 with an earthly passion. He joined in the pro- 
 cession, and assisted in the last duties to the re- 
 mains of his lost Hildegonde. He united his 
 fervent prayers to those of the nuns, for the 
 
 Q 4 
 
232 GOTTESHULFE. OBERWINTER. 
 
 eternal repose of their departed sister ; and on 
 the following morning he was found seated, as 
 usual, at the casement towards the convent : but 
 grief had composed to rest the earthly man, and 
 his bursting soul had fled away in search of the 
 pure spirit which had already taken its flight to 
 happier realms. 
 
 jtsu^rr-ajcs-gcaw 
 
 The channel of the Rhine is here still more 
 contracted by the approaching mountains ; and 
 a little higher up, at a place called by the boat- 
 men, Gotteshiilfe, (God's assistance), the cur 
 rent is extremely rapid. Presently, however, 
 the scenery undergoes another cliange : the 
 mountains retire a sliort distance from the bank 
 on either side to make room for little ^•illages 
 and fertile vallies ; and the river*s widened course 
 presents the appearance of a placid lake, on the 
 bright transparent face of whicli was seen reflect 
 ed the houses of the little village of Oberwinter. 
 Every object now partook of the mellowed glow 
 of parting day, Mhich heightening the deep 
 autumnal tint around, produced an effect upon 
 this lovely scene so — so far beyond the pain- 
 ter's art, and my prosaic pen, that I must leave 
 the rest to be supplied by tlie imagination of 
 
OBERWINTER. UNKEL. Q33 
 
 those who have witnessed the sight of the setting 
 sun in these more favoured regions. 
 
 There is a pecuharity in the appearance of all 
 the towns and villages of the Rhine which must 
 strike the mind of every traveller with the 
 same pleasing effect. This is produced by the 
 light and shade of the houses, all of which are 
 white or grey, with dark blueish slated roofs. 
 These throw a mild and sober hue around the 
 little clustered habitations, which is in unison 
 either with the green meadow or the shady val- 
 ley, the brown mountain, or the dark craggy 
 rock, and which harmonizes well with all the 
 varying shades of the full-flowing and transparent 
 waters of the Rhine. 
 
 Evening was now fast drawing to a close, but 
 lingering twilight still befriended us. Passing 
 Oberwinter, the broad appearance of a lake 
 gradually disappears, and the river, making a 
 sweeping bend, soon brought us before the little 
 town of Unkel on our left. Here, owing to a 
 group of basaltic rocks, which project into the 
 river, and are in some places scarcely covered 
 by the water, the navigation is impeded, and 
 safety requires an expert and experienced boat- 
 man. On the left bank numerous little villages 
 
 \ 
 
234. RHEINMAGEN. LINZ. 
 
 are seen dispersed about, and the neighbouring 
 hills present a more fertile appearance ; some of 
 them being covered even to their steep summits 
 with the clinging vineyards. 
 
 With another bend in an opposite direction, we 
 passed before the small and beautifully situated 
 little town of Rheinmagen. But night had 
 now begun to draw around her darkening veil, 
 and even near objects were but indistinctly visible. 
 
 At a short distance below Rheinmagen, on the 
 same side of the river, and nearly opposite to the 
 small town of Linz, is the little village of Krippe. 
 Here running up our bark alongside the bank, 
 she was safely moored for the night, and we now 
 all quitted lier to seek for beds and refreshment, 
 at the village inn. 
 
 On arriving at the inn, which had as little to 
 boast of in internal accommodation, as in exte- 
 rior appearance, I found that tlie party had been 
 beforehand with me, and that I, with one or two 
 others, had come too late in an application for a 
 bed. My two military companions had been 
 lucky enough to secure one bed between them, 
 but finding that I had been less fortunate, tliey 
 pressed me much to accept it in their stead, and 
 
KRIPPE. Q35 
 
 so forcibly did they urge their offer, on the 
 ground that habit had rendered them less Hable 
 to be inconvenienced by soldiers' fare than I 
 should be, that to support my first denial was no 
 easy duty, and I was at last obliged to assure 
 them that as the boatman had fixed the hour of 
 departure to-morrow morning at four o'clock, I 
 should prefer rolling myself up in my cloak and 
 lying down in the cabin of the bark. Upon 
 hearing this, the discussion ended, and they de- 
 termined to keep me company through the night, 
 and accordingly resigned their bed to the other 
 Englishman, who, surprised at my refusal, made 
 no ceremony himself in accepting the good offer. 
 
 By the time all these arrangements were con- 
 cluded, a supper consisting of numerous dishes 
 smoked upon the board. But I, keeping in 
 recollection the old proverb, " that a light sup- 
 per at night, makes a clear head in the morn- 
 ing," now surprised my hostess and companions 
 not a little, by calling for some tea. After long- 
 search for such an article, a small quantity (and, 
 as I suppose, from the total loss of its native fra- 
 grance, an ancient remnant), was at last discover- 
 ed in an old broken cup ; but I was loath to be 
 disappointed, and I tlierefore ordered the boiling- 
 water to be brought. The length of time which 
 now elapsed seemed to shew that I was putting 
 
236 KRIPPE. — NIGHT. 
 
 the good people of tlie house out of their usual 
 way, and at hist the arri\ al of some liot water in 
 a jug, made manifest that tlie process of tea- 
 making was here not well understood. After 
 some further time passed in endeavouring to 
 make the good woman of the house understand 
 that it was the fashion in England to use boihng 
 water on these occasions, I put the tea into the 
 pot, and requested her to iill it from the kettle. 
 After another tedious time had elapsed in came 
 the teapot, when, seizing it with eagerness, I 
 poured out a cupfull. The fine deep colour of 
 this decoction a little surprized me, as I recol- 
 lected that the tea itself was green ; however, 
 full of thirst and confidence, I quaffed down the 
 greater part of a copious cup, before I discover- 
 ed the nauseous qualities of this black dose. 
 The first impulse was to satisfy myself that it 
 was nothing worse than nauseous. Having set 
 at rest all fears by discovering the principal in- 
 gredients to be cinnamon, the hostess was again 
 called in, but our mutual attempts at explanation 
 were equally in vain. She looked like one who 
 had failed in all her attempts to please ; and I, 
 no doubt, looked as ungracious as I felt disap- 
 pointed. 
 
 But supper in the adjoining room was now 
 finished, and as it was pretty clear that 1 shoukl 
 
KRIPPE. MORNING. 237 
 
 lie down siipperless to-night, I joined my two 
 companions ; and this httle adventure furnished 
 the subject for some laughter until we reached 
 the bark. We stepped in, and each making his 
 own nest upon the cabin bench, prepared himself 
 for courting " gentle sleep." I was soon in- 
 formed that the suit of the two soldiers had been 
 accepted ; and I, wrapped up in my ample tra- 
 velling-cloak, was not long after them in suc- 
 cess, for 
 
 — Weariness 
 
 Can snore upon the flint, when restive sloth 
 Finds the down pillow hard." 
 
 Tuesdaij, Oct. 2. At a little after four o'clock 
 in the morning we were awakened by the 
 bustle of the out-lodgers resuming tlieir places 
 in the bark, and before I was aw^are of it, we had 
 slipped oiu' moorings, and were again stemming 
 the river's rapid course. 
 
 A candle now burnt upon our cabin table, and 
 gave light just sufficient to enable me to take a 
 survey of the group around. We all looked as 
 if too soon taken from the arms of " oiu' foster 
 nurse of nature," or in other words, yet scarcely 
 wide awake. No one seemed inclined to give, 
 or ready to receive the morning salutation, but 
 
238 RHINE VOYAGE. DAY-BREAK. 
 
 each slunk in silence to a seat, whilst the dim 
 taper shewed faces 
 
 *' ■ unlustrous as the smoky light 
 
 That's fed with stinking tallow." 
 
 The two little girls were already making a 
 continuation of their niglit's rest in their mother's 
 lap, and but for an occasional sigh and yawn, and 
 every now and then a half audible execration in 
 good plain English, proceeding from a muffled 
 figure in one corner, it might have been su})posed 
 that all w^ere again hushed in sleep. As for my- 
 self, I confess I felt very much as the others ap- 
 peared, fitter for sleep tlian aught else, and I do 
 believe, I had soon so far yielded to the influence 
 of a doze, as to be not quite sure that I was not 
 again asleep ; however, be this as it may, I 
 became conscious that somebody, not very far 
 from me, was " taking his quiet pipe," and this 
 put the question of asleep or awake beyond 
 further doubt, for, wrapping my cloak around 
 me, I stepped out of the cabin, and resumed 
 my seat upon the deck. 
 
 It was now the time of morning just before 
 ** night's candles are burnt out," and their di- 
 minished lustre is supplied by '* jocund day," 
 from the *' misty mountain top," and the chilly 
 
RHINE VOYAGE. DAY-BREAK. 239 
 
 air told of autumn far advanced ; or, in a few 
 plain words, it was now rather dark and cold. 
 
 Although the view was limited to a small cir- 
 cle around our little boat, yet, even this dark, 
 unseasonable hour was not without its charms ; 
 and muffled up as I was in my warm cloak, I 
 would not have resigned my place for the best 
 featherbed in England. 
 
 The low and mournful noise of the river's 
 sweeping current, the rip])ling of the parted 
 stream against our opposing bark, or the hollow 
 whistling of a neighbouring eddy disturbing 
 "the stillness of the quiet time," were sounds to 
 me as full of harmony as the Eolian harp's soft 
 notes floating in a summer's evening on the gen- 
 tle gale. And where vision could not pierce the 
 gloom around, 
 
 " There was bright Fancy near at hand, 
 To picture scenes of fairy land." 
 
 Soon the lights of night had entirely disap- 
 peared, and now succeeded an interval of more 
 gloomy darkness than before. But this was of 
 short duration, for presently 
 
 . " The grey-ey'd morn smiles on the frowning night," 
 
240 RHINE VOYAGE RISING SUN. 
 
 who thereupon began to draw aside lier darken- 
 ing mantle, and next 
 
 " in his east the glorious lamp was seen, 
 
 Regent of day, and all th' horizon round 
 Invested with bright rays, jocund to run 
 His longitude thro' heav'n's high road : — 
 
 There is something in the opening of tlie 
 dawn, and first appearance of the orb of day at 
 every season of the year, which, when the mind 
 is well at ease, fills the breast w^ith thankfulness 
 and joy. 
 
 In the cold, dark wintry season, the heart of 
 man is warmed and comforted. In the opening of 
 the verdant spring, nature, in her bright new dress, 
 appears to smile on every thing around, and all 
 mankind, and the whole brute creation, seem en- 
 livened at the change. In the sultry summer 
 months the feverish air of night is chased away, 
 and all the animal, and even the vegetable world 
 shews a refreshened face ; and in the season of the 
 falling leaf, the mind seems filled with a sort of 
 cheerful seriousness brought on by tiie recollec- 
 tion, that like the revolving year hastening to its 
 winter season, so are we hastening to oiu's, when 
 even those, who, like the strong and liealthy leaf, 
 have weathered through the blights of early 
 
RHEINECK. HONINGEN. 241 
 
 spring, and withstood the parching heats of sum- 
 mer, are yet assure " to fall into the sear," and 
 like the yellow leaf, first drooping, then to di'op ! 
 
 But away with moody musings in such a scene 
 as this, where bright reality engrosses all the 
 thoughts, and calls forth the warmest admiration. 
 
 We were now before the little village of 
 Rheineck, with its ancient castle, on the summit 
 of a steep mountain, nearly opposite to which, 
 on the northern bank, is the small town of 
 Honingen, surrounded by hills covered wdth the 
 vine. The appearance of some of these elevated 
 vineyards is remarkable. In many parts of the steep 
 acclivities, where nature has intended no cov^ering 
 to the rude rock, man has profited of the favour- 
 able aspect by building up little walls one above 
 the other, and thus made resting places for the soil 
 afterwards brought hither to form the sloping 
 bed in which the vine is planted. In other parts, 
 too steep for the stone wall, and in the clefts 
 amongst the rocks, the vines are seen rising from 
 wicker baskets filled with earth, exhibiting not 
 only pleasing instances of industry and ingenuity 
 in the native peasantry, but the most beautiful 
 patches of luxuriant vegetation in the midst of 
 barren ruggedness. 
 
 VOL. I. R 
 
242 CASTLES OF ARGENFELS AND MAMMERSTEIN. 
 
 Passing Honingen, the ruins of the ancient 
 castle of Argenfels, overlooking the river from 
 a neighbouring hill, next arrest the attention. 
 This, once tlie strong fortress of one of the petty 
 tyrants of the country of the Rhine, is now but a 
 mouldering fragment, serving only as a pic- 
 turesque object for the pencil of the sketching 
 tourist, or as a subject for the musings of a so- 
 litary wanderer, and to tlie country people as a 
 sort of peg whereon to hang traditions. 
 
 A little higher up, on the summit of an enor- 
 mous rock, are seen the ruins of the castle of 
 Hammerstein, covered with the creeping i-vy, 
 and more than half concealed by brambles. 
 From hence has originated many a tradition and 
 tale of terror ; and, as tlie history goes, the last 
 possessor of this castle was one Count Otto, 
 in the tenth century, whose desperate robberies 
 and cruelties obliged the neighbouring lords to 
 coalesce, and drive the common enemy from his 
 fortress, in which they succeeded, and then the 
 castle was demolished. 
 
 The country on either side now exhibits 
 Scenery of the most romantic interest, and the 
 little valley of the Brol, through which runs a 
 small river of that name, looks as if formed 
 
VALLEY OF THE BROLL. ANDERNACH. 243 
 
 within a mountain rent asunder. Here are quar- 
 ries of cement stone, in which the inhabitants 
 carry on some trade. But objects of interest 
 now crowd so closely in every direction, that the 
 attention becomes distracted, and the impres- 
 sions carried away are but imperfect and confused. 
 Fertile vallies, and steep vineyards, with their 
 trailsparent and purple fruit clustering under the 
 broad luxuriant leaf, as if in mockery of the sterile 
 rock beneath, the little habitations of the hum- 
 ble vine-dressers hanging midway on the moun- 
 tain side, the numerous small towns and villages 
 along the bright river's banks, and straight be- 
 fore the view, the wooded mountains and dark 
 rocks of Andernach, with a ruined castle on 
 almost every gloomy height around ; all brought 
 together within one small circle, present to the 
 eye such a variety of brilliant imageiy, and to 
 the mind so many striking contrasts, that the 
 sight becomes at last wearied with overwork, and 
 the imagination bewildered in its own delusions. 
 
 We now approached the sombre heights of An- 
 dernach, and soon came before the town, situated 
 at the foot of a stupendous rock. The Rhine is 
 here closely hemmed in by mountains, and rushes 
 on its course with increased rapidity. Every ob- 
 ject partakes of the surrounding gloom, and the 
 whole scene is dark, terrible, and threatening. 
 
 R e 
 
244 ERLICH. NEUWID. 
 
 The same dreary aspect continues for some dis- 
 tance, and a ruined nnnnery close upon the wa- 
 ter's edge, heightens the melancholy interest of 
 the scene. 
 
 Emerging from the defile of Andernach, the 
 dark rocks disappear, the mountains recede on 
 each side, and the llhine flows in a wider and a 
 steadier course. Here is seen, upon the northern 
 bank, a spacious chateau, formerly belonging to, 
 and inhabited by, some petty prince of Neuwid, 
 but now exhibiting a ruin so dilapidated and de- 
 plorable, that it well deserves the name given to 
 it by the country-people, as our boatmen in- 
 formed us, signifying in English, the Devil's own 
 House. A little higher up, on the same side, 
 is the pretty village of Erlich, and a little fur- 
 ther on, is the town of Neuwid. The appearance 
 of this town in the distance, peeping through 
 avenues of lofty and closely planted poplars, is 
 extremely pretty, nor is the pleasing effect les- 
 sened by nearer approach. 
 
 The exterior character of this town differs from 
 any of those hitherto noticed upon the Rhine. 
 There is here a neatness and regularity in the 
 appearance of the houses which seem to be- 
 speak more than usual wealth and consequence 
 in the inhabitants, and the pubhc walks and gar- 
 
WEISSE THURM. ENGERS. — SAYN. 245 
 
 dens, with a beautiful little palace, reflected in 
 the transparent waters of the Rhine, give to 
 Neuwid not only an air of comfort and elegance, 
 but something of the importance of a little ca- 
 pital. Passing Neuwid, a little higher up on the 
 opposite side, is the village of Weisse Thurm, 
 (signiiying a white tower, which is a prominent 
 and neighbouring object). Near this village, 
 on a small hill, is a monument to the French Ge- 
 neral Hoche, who here crossed the Rhine in 
 1797> after a long and desperate resistance by 
 the Austrains. His own life, with the loss of the 
 greater part of the soldiers under his command, 
 were the price of his success, and his remains 
 are deposited near Coblentz, by the side of those 
 of a gallant young brother in arms, G eneral Mar- 
 ceau. 
 
 Proceeding a little further, we came in sight 
 of the small towns of Engers and Sayn, sur- 
 rounded by beautiful gardens and undulating 
 vineyards; and on a neighbouring mountain, 
 round which the river Sayn flows into the Rhine, 
 are seen the ruins of an old castle, formerly be- 
 longing to the ancient and powerful Counts of 
 Sayn. 
 
 Turning a bend in the river, the height of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, and what remains of its once 
 
 R 3 
 
246 EHRENBREITSTEIN. COBLENTZ. 
 
 famous fortress, become visible. Although not 
 far distant, it was for some time difficult to dis- 
 tinguish the crumbling ruins of the fortress from 
 the rugged rock around. 
 
 The appearance is that of one chaotic mass of 
 rocky fragments. On a nearer approach, these 
 fragments seem to form into the shape of walls. 
 And nearer still, the fortress itself is distin- 
 guished, rising from a heap of blackened ruins. 
 
 We now came in view of the clean white- 
 looking town of Coblentz, built on a nook of land 
 formed by the confluence of the Rhine and the 
 Moselle, and surrounded by barren and lofty 
 mountains. 
 
 As this was to be a sort of resting station, all 
 was now bustle upon our little deck, and it being 
 here necessary to unhook the horses from our 
 bark, the boatmen had only their oars and boat 
 hooks to depend upon in stemming the rapid 
 current. This was a work of some difficulty, 
 but with a good deal of dexterity and muscular 
 exertion we were at length safely moored along 
 side the quay. Here we all landed, and our 
 little party, with one consent, proceeded to a 
 handsome looking inn facing us, where no time 
 was lost in ordering breakfast, or, to use in the 
 
COBLENTZ THAL EHRENBREITSTEIN. 247 
 
 present case a more appropriate term, a dejeuner 
 a lajburdiette which was a sort of meal better 
 suited to my appetite, now, as may be supposed, 
 sufficiently sharpened by long fasting. 
 
 The time allotted for our stay at Coblentz 
 being two hours, afforded opportunity for a slight 
 survey of the town and its environs ; and my two 
 companions having a friend here to visit, I sallied 
 forth alone 
 
 Opposite to our inn, on the other side of the 
 Rhine, the stupendous rock of Ehrenbreitstein 
 rears its embattled head, threatning every build- 
 ing in the town of Coblentz, and holding full 
 command across the Rhine, and over the en- 
 trance of the Moselle. On the other side of the 
 river is the little town of Thai Ehrenbreitstein 
 (valley of Ehrenbreitstein) which communicates 
 with the quay of Coblentz by a bridge. Here 
 crow^ds of market-people, passing and repassing, 
 threw an air of lively bustle into the scene, and 
 formed a pleasing and striking contrast with the 
 surrounding gloom. The appearance of the town 
 itself is pleasing. Some of the streets are well 
 formed, and the white buildings give an air 
 of cleanliness, to which many of them add that 
 of elegance. But every street appears deserted, 
 many of the better sort of houses look as if un- 
 inhabited, the otJiers as if but half tenanted ; 
 R 4 
 
248 FORTRESS OF EHRENBREITSTEIN. 
 
 and the elegant palace on the Rhine, built by 
 the last elector of Treves, too plainly declares 
 the long absence of a royal tenant. Every thing, 
 in short, about this ill-fated town, bespeaks ne- 
 glect and degradation, and its situation imme- 
 diately beneath the dark and threatening fortress, 
 is calculated to excite a feeling of melancholy 
 interest, even approaching to sadness. 
 
 How numerous and fearful were the vicissi- 
 tudes which this celebrated fortress of Ehren- 
 breitstein underwent during the late continental 
 wars, is yet fresh in the recollection of many. 
 Blockaded from time to time, and cannonaded 
 from every neighbouring height without success, 
 it was at last pronounced to be impregnable to 
 all human force. " But cunning creeps where 
 force can never climb," — and in January 1799, 
 this formidable fortress yielded to the unsparing 
 grasp of famine, the last, but most destructive, 
 the slowest, but most sure, of all the stratagems 
 of w^ar. Shortly afterwards, by treaty at tlie 
 peace of Luneville, the fortress was undermined, 
 and its lofty towers, with huge fragments of rock, 
 were blown into the air, and fell with a tremend- 
 ous crash into the river and the valley, and upon 
 the smoking ruins of the town beneath. The 
 little town of Thai Ehrenbreitstcin, accustomed 
 to the disasters of war, soon rose from its ruins, 
 and the fortress itself^ on which the workmen are 
 
NIEDERLAHNSTEIN. ALLERHEILIGENBERG. 249 
 
 now employed, will shortly be restored to its 
 former shape and strength. — But I had lost too 
 much time in contemplating this preparation for 
 future misery, and I was now obliged to hasten 
 back to the quay, where I found all our party 
 assembled, and ready to embark. 
 
 The river winding between the lofty mountains 
 behind Coblentz, the town is soon shut out from 
 view, and wooded heights, steep vineyards, and 
 little orchards along the water side, close in the 
 narrow scene before. Soon we passed on our 
 left the small town of Niederlahnstein. 
 
 Here the river Lahn, issuing from a defile in 
 the mountains, falls into the Rhine, and just at 
 the influx stands an old church, apparently de- 
 serted. The Lahn is a considerable river, rising 
 some distance off in the mountains called the 
 Westerwald, which is a lofty range stretching 
 across the country on the left, and forming a 
 corresponding barrier with the dreary chain of 
 the Hundsdruck mountains on the ris-ht. 
 
 "&• 
 
 Behind the town of Niederlahnstein rises a 
 high mount called Allerheiligenberg, on the 
 summit of which are the remains of what is said 
 to have been formerly a hermitage, or the resi- 
 dence of one of the early preachers of Christianity 
 
250 RHENSE. — OBERLAHNSTEIN. BRAUBACH. 
 
 in these parts ; and on a neighbouring height are 
 seen the ruins of the ancient castle of Lahnect:. 
 On our right, a decayed tower seems to mark 
 the antiquity of the small town of Rhense. Near 
 this place my friend pointed out to me the spot, 
 whereon lately stood a curious memorial of the 
 simplicity of early times, called the Konigstuhl, 
 or King's Seat. This was a small stone building, 
 with seven stone seats for the seven electors who 
 used to meet here to deliberate on the interests 
 of Germany, as also to conclude peace, and to 
 elect and depose their emperors. A few stones 
 are all that now remain to mark this memorable 
 spot. According to my informant, the French, 
 during their visit here, assisted time in destroying 
 this monument of the simplicity of early ages. 
 Stones, it is said, have ears when treason is about ; 
 in this instance, probably, it was thought that 
 stones also might have tongues. 
 
 The Rhine here makes broad and frequent 
 bends through a beautifully fertile country, and 
 on the left bank we passed the town of Ober- 
 lahnstein. 
 
 At a short distance higher up is the snug town 
 of Braubach, with its pointed steeple rising from 
 the midst of a little nest of houses, and above, 
 perched upon a high rock, is the strong castle of 
 
BREY. BOPPART. 251 
 
 Marksbourg, belonging to the House of Nassau. 
 Almost opposite, on the other side of the river, 
 is the pretty little village of Brey, surrounded by 
 fruit trees. The Rhine now makes one of the most 
 considerable bends which has yet occurred, and 
 seems as if rising out of an opposite and lofty 
 mountain. Round here the river pursues a 
 broader and more rapid course, and passing the 
 bend, at the foot of this high barrier the town of 
 Boppart, with its antique towers, rise before the 
 view. Here the Rhine presents the appearance 
 of a lake, and the heights on either side are 
 covered chiefly with vineyards. 
 
 Just above the town of Boppart our bark was 
 hailed, and we brought to alongside the bank. 
 It was to take in another passenger, " a little 
 robustious perriwig-pated fellow,'* brimfuU of 
 fun and good humour, whose rusty sable dress 
 bespoke the calling of a parson, but whose little 
 rubicund nose declared him to be also in full 
 orders as a priest of Bacchus. It appeared that 
 he had but just now finished celebrating the mys- 
 teries of his heathenish god, and being filled with 
 enlivening inspiration, lie soon contrived to im- 
 part a portion of it to our little party. The circle 
 was formed, the cup of favourite Rhenish passed 
 quickly round, and to convivial songs succeeded 
 boisterous mirth ; nor could I forbear joining in 
 
252 BORNHOFEN. SALZIG. 
 
 the frequent and hearty laugh at the sight of 
 " the lack-lustre eye," the rolling head, and the 
 little squat figure of this Father Tuck in minia- 
 ture. 
 
 As the surrounding country now becomes 
 more fertile, dilapidated convents and other an- 
 cient ruins meet the eye in all directions, and, on 
 the left bank, the mouldering towers of the old 
 castles of Liebenstein and Sternfels are striking 
 and imposing objects in the scene. These two 
 castles, from an old tradition attached to them, 
 are generally called *' the Brothers." Beneath 
 is the picturesque little village of Bornhofen, 
 with a handsome church belonging to a convent 
 of Capuchins. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river, before the 
 little village of Salzig, said to be famous for its 
 cherries, most of which are sent to Holland, our 
 bark stopped at the request of the merry little 
 parson to afford an opportunity for replenishing 
 the now nearly exhausted stock of favorite 
 Rhenish. 
 
 This also afforded me an opportunity of dis- 
 engaging myself from my noisy companions, and 
 I now quitted the bark to pursue my way on foot 
 along the river*s bank. 
 
AUTUMNAL EVENING ON THE RHINE. 259 
 
 The evening was beautifully serene, and the 
 setting sun had thrown over the surrounding scene 
 a rich and glowing tint of pinkish hue, unknown 
 in the more northern latitudes, and producing an 
 effect, of which alone the painter's art can con- 
 vey even a faint description. The high neigh- 
 bouring mountains, crowned with forest trees of 
 various sorts, now shewed the varied hues of an 
 autumnal foliage, tinged with the glowing colour 
 of the medium through which they were pre- 
 sented : and the broad leaves of the climbing 
 vines, forming through the fervid glow a smooth 
 refreshing surface whereon the eye could rest 
 delighted and relieved, served also to mark the 
 contrast with the neighbouring mountains, where 
 the grey mouldering ruins peeping from between 
 the tangled brushwood were so many dark spots 
 resisting the bright influence around. But love- 
 liest of all the objects in this most lovely scene 
 was the broad full-flowing Rhine. The silvery 
 stream, here gently gliding on its winding course, 
 by soft gradation assumed the glowing tinge, and 
 blending with the deeper tint of the horizon, was 
 prematurely hidden from the view in the rich 
 carmine of the distant mountains. — O! it was a 
 scene of fairy land, or like a dream existing only 
 in the bright delusions of the fancy ; for here 
 nature, by combining all her choicest beauties, 
 and exhibiting tli£m in one view and through the 
 
'25i AUTUMNAL EVENING ON THE RHINE. 
 
 brightest colouring, had so outrivalled her own 
 works that even nature seemed unnatural. It 
 was a scene of calm repose, which sunk the mind 
 of the beholder rather into a lethargy of delight, 
 than startled it mth the lively feelings of amaze- 
 ment. Numerous fishers in their little boats, 
 laden with their spoil amongst the finny tribe, 
 were now reclining at their ease, and gliding in 
 the current's gentle course — the humble la- 
 bourers in their little skiffs were paddling home- 
 ward from their neighbouring vineyards — here 
 and there along the river's banks were groups of 
 younger peasantry — and the old woman, having 
 finished her domestic labours for the day, was 
 seen seated in placid ease before her cottage door, 
 whilst her old helpmate near her, bending upon 
 his crooked staff, was gazing upon the scene 
 around ; still, perhaps, even in his old age ad- 
 miring, or watching the approaching bark which, 
 perhaps, was bearing to the shore the now chief 
 supporter and future master of his little cot. 
 Every thing around bespoke the labors of the day 
 concluded, and the calm succeeding interval 
 announced the coming of that peaceful time when 
 nature seems as if participating in the quiet of 
 mankind. 
 
 The picturesque beauties of the scene now 
 vary with every bend in the river's course, but 
 
TWILIGHT. CASTLE OF RHEINFELS. 0,55 
 
 the valley of the Rhine here gradually contracts 
 between the approaching mountains which, as we 
 advanced, appeared to close, and to forbid our 
 further progress. These high barriers, no longer 
 seen through a delusive light, now assumed a 
 gloomy and more natural aspect — the lingering 
 rays had followed the departed sun — short suc- 
 ceeding twilight had shed its soft influence 
 around and passed away, and 
 
 " Now is the pleasant time, 
 
 The cool, the silent, save where silence yields 
 To the night warbling bird, that now awake 
 Tunes sweetest his love labor'd song; now reigns 
 Full orb'd the moon, and with more pleasing light 
 Shadowy sets off the face of things. " 
 
 Lofty and barren rocks in the distance, looking 
 like frowning barriers opening into dark and 
 fearful scenes, now reared their rugged heads, 
 and seemed to throw a mysterious solemnity over 
 the surrounding gloom. On the summit of a 
 high and sterile rock were just discernible the 
 blackened ruins of a fortress which shews the 
 hand of man as well as that of time in the work 
 of demolition. These are the ruins of the an- 
 cient castle of Rheinfels, which, as I afterwards 
 learnt, was transformed some centuries ago by 
 one Count Thierry, of Katzenellenbogen, from 
 its original and peaceful purpose of a monastery. 
 
256 ST. GOAR. NIGHT. 
 
 into a strong and warlike castle for the purpose 
 of commanding the passage of the Rhine, and 
 thereby of enabling this petty tyrant to exact a 
 toll from every passing boat. The neighbouring 
 towns and nobles finding themselves too weak to 
 oppose alone and effectually this act of tyranny, 
 formed an extensive coalition, which led ulti- 
 mately to the destruction of their powerful rival, 
 and gave rise to the first confederation of the 
 Rhine. 
 
 Pursuing my way along the river's bank, at 
 length 1 reached the town of St. Goar. This 
 is generally considered the most wild and strik- 
 ing in its situation of all the towns along the 
 Rhine, but 
 
 ' Now black and deep the night begins to fall 
 A shade immense. Sunk in the quenching gloom, 
 Magnificent and vast, are heaven and earth ; 
 Order confounded lies ; all beauty void ; 
 Distinction lost ; and gay variety 
 One universal blot; such the fair power 
 Of light, to kindle and create the whole." 
 
 Knowing this to have been fixed upon as our 
 resting-place for tlie night, I proceeded to the 
 inn, but the company fi'om the bark had not yet 
 arrived, and I therefore had an opportunity of 
 taking first choice amongst the beds. This being 
 an advantage which seemed fairly placed before 
 
ST. GOAR. GOARHAUSEN. MORNING. ^57 
 
 me, I did not hesitate to make the most of it, 
 and accordingly I secured, for the benefit of 
 myself and my two military companions, the 
 best accommodation which the house afforded. 
 The party soon afterwards arrived, and we all 
 sat down together at the public supper-table, I 
 being now one of the number ; for I had learnt by 
 experience that it is sometimes better for one's 
 own sake to follow the example of those about 
 one. 
 
 Wednesday, October 3. — At a little before 
 four, A. M., my slumbers were disturbed by 
 the announcement of preparations for depar- 
 ture. Making the toilet at this unseasonable 
 hour, becomes agreeable only by long habit ; and 
 I certainly was never one of those who delight 
 in groping about in the dark at this time of the 
 morning. However I managed to attire myself, 
 and joining my two companions, whom I found 
 waiting for me, we proceeded to the bark. Our 
 small party being soon complete, we slipped 
 ropes, and the town of St. Goar, and the little 
 town of Goarhausen, on the opposite bank, were 
 soon lost in the misty vapour. 
 
 For a short distance, as far as I could distin- 
 guish, the ornamented valley still continued, but 
 the approaching mountains gradually lost their 
 
 VOL. I. s 
 
258 DEFILE OF THE RHINE. 
 
 woods and vineyards, until at last the grey morn 
 dawned iijDon our little bark, stemming the roar- 
 ing current, now pent up in a narrow defile 
 between the gloomy rocks, which, as we ad- 
 vanced, became so lofty, dark, and terrible, that 
 the effect around seemed like a renewal of the 
 shades of night. 
 
 Steep and craggy rocks were now seen rising 
 from the river on each side, and stretching forth 
 in fearful ruggedness far and high into the air ; 
 and the eye, tracing the lengthened towing- 
 rope, distinguished afar off, upon a lofty and nar- 
 row ledge, three struggling horses, (contending 
 for their own lives as well as ours) in the midst 
 of this mighty conflict, between the raging 
 waters and opposing rocks. 
 
 It was a curious and fearful sight, at this 
 sombre hour of morning, to watch our little 
 bark twisting and doubling in its course, to avoid 
 the whistling whirlpools, and the deceitful ene- 
 mies, which, peeping forth, shewed their dark 
 heads beneath the foaming waters. The eager 
 countenance of our steers-man shewed that all 
 his skill and care were now required. Being 
 myself the only passenger on deck at this un- 
 seasonable hour, I took my seat in silence by the 
 steers-man's side. 
 
DEFILE OF THE RHINE. 259 
 
 The scenery of this defile is considered to be 
 the grandest and most imposing of all the scenery 
 of the Rhine. This mighty river, here con- 
 strained by lofty barriers of basaltic and calcare- 
 ous rocks, rushes through its contracted channel 
 with a fury in some places inconceivable, and 
 meeting with numerous and huge obstacles, in 
 the shape of sunken rocks, and high opposing 
 fragments, is thus checked in its furious course, 
 and thrown back into foaming waves or sweeping 
 whirlpools. It is a scene of strife, which may 
 be likened to a fray between mortal combatants, 
 bent upon the destruction of each other. The 
 only objects which here meet the eye are rock 
 and water ; each seems as if contending with 
 deadly animosity against the other, and all is 
 noise, terror, and confusion. The chilly air of 
 early morning, at the present advanced season 
 of the year, tended also to heighten the effect 
 of this imposing scene ; and the grey dawn, 
 which now penetrated the defile, threw around 
 a gloom more impressive than if darker ; for 
 there was light just sufficient to make visible all 
 the terrors of the sight ; and upon tlie high 
 ruffsed rock could be discerned the rude and 
 weather-beaten cross, bending over the steep 
 precipice, and looking down upon the fearful 
 fray beneath, as if, in the midst of so much 
 savage dreariness, to cheer the passing traveller 
 
 s 2 
 
260 THE LURLEBERG. 
 
 with holy thoughts, or to impart to the affrighted 
 boatmen some blessed hopes of immortality, 
 when every ray of earthly hope is lost in tlie 
 sweeping vortex of the whirlpool. 
 
 Here, in these rocky wilds, according to tra- 
 dition, the pious hermit, St. Goar, fixed his 
 habitation, and in these dark solitudes first re- 
 vealed the light of Christianity to the untaught 
 natives of the neighbouring country. 
 
 Pursuing our fearful course, midst rocks and 
 whirlpools, we passed a huge mass of black 
 basalt, which is seen rising near the middle of 
 the Rhine, and high above the waters* reach. 
 
 This rock is called the Lurleyberg, and is re- 
 markable for producing an extraordinary eclio. 
 It is also the favourite liaunt of the river sprites, 
 and is still, on this account, at certain times, the 
 boatman's dread ; for the pranks of these little 
 fancied beings are so full of mischief i and are 
 still so currently believed, that many a stout- 
 hearted boatman, in a moonlight night, fears 
 the sunken rock and curling eddy much less 
 than the malicious water-sprite. 
 
 The frightful whirlpools and dangerous cur- 
 rents around this rock have been, through all 
 
THE MAID OF LURLEY. 26l 
 
 ages, causes of frequent disasters to the boat- 
 men of the Rhine, and superstition has not 
 failed to lieighten the terrors of nature by caUing 
 in the aid of supernatural agency. The extra- 
 ordinary echoes of this rock, with the inclination 
 to the marvellous in the human mind, still tend 
 to confirm the natives in their belief of the va- 
 rious traditions, carefully preserved and handed 
 down by each succeeding generation, concern- 
 ing the imaginary beings which here hold their 
 midnight revels. 
 
 As a pleasing specimen of one of the most 
 popular of these traditionary histories, I will 
 here introduce, with a close observance of the 
 circumstances as related to me, the story of 
 
 THE MAID OF LURLEY. 
 
 In days of yore, there appeared oflen upon 
 the Lurleyberg, at decline of day, and in the 
 pale moon-light, a beautiful figure of a young 
 and lovely female, clothed in white, who sung 
 with a voice of such unearthly sweetness, that 
 all who heard were stupified with exquisite de- 
 hght, and the bark abandoned, was frequently 
 swallowed up, with all its crew, by the treacher- 
 ous current. No one had yet ever seen this 
 lovely but dangerous nymph, excepting a few 
 
 s 3 
 
262 THE MAID OF LURLEY. 
 
 young fishermen, who sometimes, at twilight, 
 would find her at their sides, pointing out to 
 them where to throw their nets, which then never 
 failed to make a good capture of the finny tribe. 
 Much was the talk througiiout the neighbouring 
 country of the Maid of Lurley, her mischiev- 
 ous, friendly, and sometimes cruel pranks. 
 
 The son of a Count Palatine, who held his 
 court in a neighbouring country, heard of this 
 sweet mysterious being, and burning with desire 
 to behold the lovely form, he one morning, be- 
 fore the rising sun had yet begun to gild the 
 mountain tops, unknown to any one, mounted 
 his fleetest steed, and pursued at full gallop the 
 road to Wesel. When he reached Wesel, the 
 sun was sinking down a sky of burnished gold, 
 and had already nearly vanished from the view. 
 Having hastily refreshed himself from the fatigues 
 of the day, he sought the most experienced and 
 steady boatman, who, after many threats and 
 entreaties, was at length persuaded to conduct 
 the young count in a bark to the rock of Lurley. 
 
 The mild twilight of an early and beautiful 
 autumnal evening had now thrown over the sur- 
 rounding scenery a soothing softness, and little 
 doubt was entertained that the Maid of Lurley 
 would be found on her favorite spot. 
 
THE MAID OF LURLEY. Q6S 
 
 Having arranged the plan of approach through 
 the dangerous currents and whirlpools, in the 
 midst of which this rock arises, the boatman, 
 with watchful care, and intent upon the manage- 
 ment of his boat, steered into the roaring torrent. 
 In vain the young Count strained his eager eyes 
 to behold the lovely maid ; — the rock was just 
 visible, but to expiring twilight had succeeded 
 the first veil of night, and the fancy, better than 
 the eye, could now distinguish objects. Pre- 
 sently, however, sounds of such sweet melody 
 as before were never heard by human ears came 
 wafted through the air, and the boatman crying, 
 " Hark ! there is the bewitching fiend,'* redoubled 
 his efforts to steady the tossed bark in the now 
 whirling current. At this moment the bright 
 moon burst forth, and the young Count saw, 
 seated upon a corner of the rock, the lovely 
 figure clothed in a light and floating robe that 
 vied in whiteness with the foam around her. 
 There, playing with her flowing hair, she sat] 
 mingling the heavenly sweetness of her voice with 
 the discordant whistling of the troubled waters. 
 The young Count gazed with stupifying wonder 
 on this aerial form, and the melodious sounds 
 which floated in the air left him no longer master 
 of himself Determined to seize the bewitching 
 
 o 
 
 figure before him, he forced the boatman to 
 drive further into the roaring torrent. The bark, 
 
 s 4 
 
264 THE MAID OF LURLEY„ 
 
 swept violently along, passed within a few feet of 
 the rock ; the young Count s})rung from the 
 boat ; his foot reached, but held not upon the 
 slippery rock ; he fell backwards, and disappeared 
 in the foaming water. The White Maid now 
 raised her wild and bewitching notes, and the 
 shattered bark, tossed out of one whirlpool to 
 be swallowed up by anotlier, arrived at last in 
 fragments afar off on either shore. The half- 
 drowned boatman, clinging to a piece of his frail 
 tenement, was driven at random through this 
 roaring strife into the steady current, and wafled 
 to the grassy bank, he gained dry land. There, 
 wringing his drenched garments, he thanked his 
 guardian star for having safely guided him in this 
 hour of peril, and he pursued his way home to 
 tell his fearful and melancholy tale. 
 
 The sad news soon reached the ears of the 
 unhappy father. Grief and rage struggled 
 alternately in his breast, and he gave directions 
 for hastening to the abode of the seducing 
 nymph, there to seize her dead or alive. The 
 most valorous of his captains were selected for 
 this dangerous expedition, and with a chosen 
 few the old Count set out upon his enterprize. 
 
 At the ajiproach of night the fearfid rock was 
 surrounded by the valiant cavaliers, who formed 
 
THE MAID OF LURLEY. 265 
 
 a circle out of the reach of the whirlpools and 
 foaming torrents. 
 
 After some consultation, the old Count with 
 three of the most courageous of his band, launch- 
 ed into the roaring current, and surrendering 
 themselves to the mercy of the waving element, 
 they guided their boat as well as they might 
 towards the fatal spot. Through frightful dan- 
 gers the tossed bark, by the adroit management 
 of its fearless navigators, was always righted, 
 and falling at length into a sweeping current, 
 the boat was safely lodged between two pro- 
 jecting points of the Maiden's Rock. — There, 
 seated on the summit, the lovely maid of Lurley 
 was descried. — She saw the approach of the 
 ravishers, and demanded what they sought. — 
 " It is thou, infected witch," exclaimed the old 
 Count, *' whom we come to seek through these 
 perils of the Rhine, there to hurl thee to per- 
 dition." — " Ah, ah !" cried the White Maid, 
 laughing, "let him come who may." — At 
 these words she took from her head a cora] 
 wreath, and leaving her flowing hair to the 
 wafting winds, she rose from her seat, and 
 seeming to float upon the gentle zephyrs over 
 tlie highest summit of the pointed rock, she 
 raised her melodious voice, and in her sweetest 
 notes thus sung — 
 
Q66 THE MAID OF LURLEY. 
 
 " Haste, my father, haste to me, 
 Haste, to set thy daughter free. 
 Send thy aid to Lurley's height, 
 
 My nightly haunt. 
 
 Whene'er I chaunt 
 Wild notes by the pale moonlight. 
 
 Speed thee, father, speed to me, 
 Danger now at hand I see, 
 Lead me to thy coral cave, 
 
 And evermore, 
 
 Tliis peril o'er, 
 I'll sing in thy bright blue wave." 
 
 — Her voice was no longer audible — a furious 
 storm now raged — the waters rolled and 
 twisted their conflicting torrents into every 
 varied shape — the Rhine boiled up, and seemed 
 to know no bounds — the foaming waves con- 
 tinued to rise one above another, and death to 
 the Count and his party appeared inevitable. 
 Terrified at the scene of horror around, they 
 now tlioLight only of saving themselves from 
 the pursuing waters, and with eager steps they 
 clambered up the sides of the steep and fearful 
 rock. The raging water still pursued the af- 
 frighted fugitives, who, just as they reached 
 the summit, saw by their side the fairy form of 
 the White Maid of Lurley — but at tlie same 
 moment a foaming wave received her ; smiling 
 at her vain pursuers, and waving jicr beauteous 
 arms in token of adieu, she yielded herself to 
 
THE MAID OF LURLEY. 267 
 
 the wave — there visible for a few moments like 
 a bright speck upon the foam, she was heard 
 chaunting her last farewell ; but when the 
 melodious voice ceased, the Maid of Lurley 
 disappeared for ever from mortal view. 
 
 The storm died away, the waters gradually 
 subsided to their usual level, and more than 
 usual stillness was restored; even the turbu- 
 lence of the water around the rock had almost 
 yielded to the general calm. 
 
 The old Count and his three brave compa- 
 nions, each lost in the wonder of the scene, now 
 returned in silence to their bark, and having 
 succeeded in joining the remainder of their 
 party, who had given them up as lost, they all 
 directed their course homeward, the father 
 ruminating upon his loss, and the others upon 
 their escape from unheard-of perils. What 
 must have been their surprize and joy upon their 
 arrival at the palace, to see the young Count 
 amongst the first to meet them ! — Swallowed 
 up in the foaming whirlpool, a kind wave had 
 borne him tlirough the opposing waters, and 
 landed him in safety on the opposite shore. 
 
 Since this time the Maid of Lurley has never 
 more been seen, and her melodious voice has 
 
268 OBERWESEL. 
 
 ceased to sing. She, however, as it is supposed, 
 continues to frequent her favourite spot, and tlie 
 neighbouring rocks, where slie amuses herself 
 by deceiving the boatmen with imitations of their 
 voices. 
 
 Approaching Oberwesel, the Rhine becomes 
 more and more deep and narrow, and rushes 
 with increased velocity througli its constrained 
 passage between the lofty and gloomy rocks. 
 Here we passed a rude contrivance, attached to 
 a large boat, for entrapping salmon, which are 
 said to be caught in this part of the river in 
 great abundance, and of enormous size. Stur- 
 geon, it is also said, are sometimes taken here. 
 
 Presently we passed before the town of 
 Oberwesel on our right. The ruined towers and 
 fine old gothic church by the water side, give to 
 this town an appearance of great antiquity, 
 which adds mucli to the efiect of its wild and 
 romantic situation. This was formerly an im- 
 perial town, but afterwards became attached to 
 the archbishopric of Treves. The ruins of an an- 
 cient castle, called Schonberg, crown the gloomy 
 summit of a neighbourintr height. 
 
CAUB. CASTLE OF PFALZ. 269 
 
 A little higher up, on the opposite side of 
 the river, stands the small town of Caub, sur- 
 rounded by high rocks and lofty mountains of 
 dark slate. We now unhooked our horses, and 
 crossed over to this town, where we landed for 
 a short time, and took a hasty breakfast. 
 
 In this neighbourhood much of the Rhenish 
 wine is made, which, with slates, constitutes 
 the principal trade of Caub, 
 
 Just above the town, on a steep mountain 
 which is ascended by numerous flights of steps, 
 are the venerable ruins of the old castle of Gu- 
 tenfels, (the rock of Guda) so called from a beau- 
 tiful Countess of Guda, who, by her charms, is 
 said to have subdued the great warrior and 
 Emperor Richard, and whose amours have left 
 behind these two lovers several pleasing tradi- 
 tions, which stand a chance of surviving even the 
 last remnant of their mouldering habitation. 
 
 Opposite to the town of Caub the Rhine 
 again assumes the broad and smooth appearance 
 of a lake, and near the centre, situated upon a 
 rock, is a very ancient and curious building called 
 the castle of Pfalz. This castle is said to have 
 been used in the early and insecure times, as a 
 place of safe retreat for the wives of the counts 
 
270 BACHARACH. 
 
 of the Palatinate during tlie periods of their 
 accouchement. The room supposed to have 
 been set apart for this purpose is still shewn, 
 and a sort of fearful interest is thrown over the 
 whole building by stories of dark passages com- 
 municating with hideous dungeons and subter- 
 raneous apartments liewn out of the soUd rock 
 beneath the river's bed. Whether these be true 
 stories or not, I cannot say ; for after Hstening 
 to many tales of terror concerning this insulated 
 castle and its underground labyrinths, I had 
 no time left for ascertaining the truth of their 
 existence. 
 
 Pursuing our course for a short distance fur- 
 ther over the now broad and })lacid stream, the 
 Rhine makes a long leach, and here comes 
 sweeping down majestically powerful. Richly 
 coloured and luxuriant vineyards now clothe the 
 range of mountains on either side, ivy-bound 
 or grey and crumbling ruins crown the varied 
 summits in all directions, and numerous vil- 
 lages crowd under the sheltering base along the 
 bright water's edge. 
 
 At the foot of a steep mountain on the right 
 bank, and situated in the very midst of the 
 richest vineyards of the Rhine, is the small but 
 ancient town of Bacharach, (the Bacchi Ara 
 
NIEDERHEIMBACH. ^71 
 
 of tlie Romans) said to be so named from an 
 altar of Bacchus, supposed to have been erected 
 by them in gratitude for the quantity and quality 
 of the wine produced in this neighbourhood *, 
 and on the same account held in grateful re- 
 spect through all succeeding ages to the present 
 day. 
 
 Ruined monasteries and dilapidated convents 
 thickly scattered about this highly favored part 
 of the valley of the Rhine, bespeak all that 
 good taste of the early inmates, which, it is 
 known, so generally distinguished the holy 
 fraternities of former times in the selection of 
 their places of abode during their dreary pil- 
 grimage on earth. But bats and solitary owls 
 are now the only tenants of these dilapidated 
 mansions, which remain upon tlie same bright 
 face of the unchanging scene, like so many 
 gloomy monuments of the dark and superstitious 
 ages. 
 
 At a short distance above Bacharach is the 
 beautifully situated village of Niederheimbach, in 
 view of the two old ruined castles of Furstenberir 
 and Stahleck. 
 
 * See Dr. Moore's Journal, vol. i. 378. 
 
272 LORRICH. KEDRICH. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river is the town 
 of Loirich. Behind this town opens a narrow 
 valley called the Wisper Thai, or Whispering 
 Valley, from a shrill wliistling sound caused by 
 the wind sweeping through this narrow defile 
 between the rocks, but by the natives attributed 
 to a much more mysterious cause. Here rises the 
 steep and lofty mountain called Kedrich, or 
 L'Echelle du Diable. Many and extraordinary 
 are the tales of wonder here told about this 
 mountain, on the steep sides of which, in former 
 times, when inaccessible to mortal man, little 
 figures, in the shape of human beings, were fre- 
 quently discernible, running up and down with 
 as much ease as if up and down a common hill. 
 Some time ago, however, as tradition says, a 
 flight of steps, the work of one night, were dis- 
 covered hewn out of the almost perpendi- 
 cular side of this stupendous rock, w^hich ren- 
 dered it accesible to mortal man even to its 
 summit. 
 
 Since then the little figures have never been 
 seen, although, it is said, they are sometimes 
 heard, as if at work with small hammers and 
 pick-axes, within the body of the rock. No one 
 in the neighbourhood entertains a doubt that 
 this flight of steps was the work of these super- 
 
THE devil's ladder. 273 
 
 natural little beings. As this extraordinary piece 
 of masonry, therefore, stands upon so well au- 
 thenticated a history, I will here give it as related 
 to me, adhering as closely to the original account 
 as a translation from one language into another, 
 and my recollection will admit, 
 
 THE DEVIL'S LADDER. 
 
 There are still to be seen a little below Lor- 
 rich, or Lorch, on the northern side of the Rhine, 
 and upon the confines of the Rhingau, the ruins 
 of an ancient burg. 
 
 This was formerly the dwelling of Sibo de 
 Lorch, a man strong and courageous, but strange 
 in manner, and somewhat unsociable. 
 
 One stormy night somebody knocked at his 
 door. It was a little old man, who demanded 
 hospitality. The master brutally refused to re- 
 ceive him. 
 
 ** You shall pay for this," muttered the little 
 old man as he retired. 
 
 Sibo soon forgot his insignificant visitor ; but 
 on the following day, when the bell had sounded 
 the hour of dinner, his daughter, whose beauty, 
 
 VOL. I. T 
 
274 THE devil's ladder. 
 
 like the opening rose, was just beginning to deve- 
 lope its sweet charms, his only daughter, now in 
 her iiftcentli year, had disappeared. Instant searcli 
 was made in every direction, but all in vain. In 
 the mean time the distracted father met a young 
 shepherd boy, who related that he had that 
 morning seen a young damsel plucking flowers 
 at the foot of the inaccessible Kedrich, and that 
 in a moment he saw her surrounded by several 
 little old men, who taking her by the arms, 
 climbed with her to the summit of the mountain, 
 apparently with as much ease as he could have 
 run along the meadow. " Oh, heaven !" cried 
 the affrighted father, " these are the goblins who 
 hold their sabbath on the height of Kedrich, who 
 are so easily vexed, and whose anger is so fear- 
 ful.'' With terror the master raised his eyes to- 
 wards the summit of the mountain, and there, 
 indeed, on the highest point, was his dear Gar- 
 linde, seeming as if stretching forth her arms 
 towards him in useless supplication. 
 
 He now hastened to collect together his vas- 
 sals, hoping to find one wlio would attempt to 
 climb the mountain, but in vain ; all declared 
 it to be a thing impossible for any mortal man. 
 The master, however, could not be quieted, nor 
 his affliction soothed, and he ordered ropes and 
 machinery of all descriptions to be brought to 
 
THE devil's ladder. 275 
 
 the steep side of this inaccessible height, in the 
 hope of forming some contrivance for ascending. 
 He put all his men to work, and he laboured 
 with them ; but scarcely had they finished the 
 first step, when an enormous stone rolhng down 
 from the summit of the mountain, forced all to 
 fly for safety, and a voice was heard to say — 
 ** Thus it is we revenge ourselves for the refusal 
 of hospitality." 
 
 Sibo, although dispirited, left no means un- 
 tried to withdraw his daughter from the hands 
 of these evil spirits. He made vows, spread 
 charity around with open hand, and offered 
 large rewards. But days, weeks, and months 
 rolled on, and his only consolation was to know 
 that his child still lived, for morning and even- 
 ing his first and last duty was to fix his eyes 
 upon the height of Kedrich. TJiere the father, 
 in silent sorrow, beheld his daughter, and the 
 daughter, looking down into the valley, gazed 
 affectionately upon her father. In the mean 
 time the gnomes spared nothing to preserve the 
 health and beauty of their stolen prize. Precious 
 stones and shells, and all the richest productions 
 of the earth and sea were laid before her for her 
 amusement, and fruits unknown to mortals were 
 served up for her refreshment. In short, no- 
 thing was neglected to render agreeable the days 
 
 T 2 
 
^6 THE devil's ladder. 
 
 of her captivity, and now and then an old gnome 
 would wliisper in her ear, " Courage, my child, 
 I am preparing for you bridal clothes, richer 
 than ever queen has given to her daugliter.'* 
 Four years had now elapsed since the poor Gar- 
 linde had been snatched away from home, and 
 her father had abandoned all hope of her return, 
 when Ruthelm, a young and brave knight, re- 
 turned from Hungary, where he had acquired 
 great glory in fighting against the infidels. His 
 castle was about half a league from Lorrich, and 
 when he heard the unhappy fate of the beauteous 
 Garlinde, his noble mind conceived the idea of 
 her deliverance. 
 
 He sought the disconsolate and solitary fa- 
 ther, and imparted to him his project. 
 
 Sibo presented him his hand. " I am rich,'* 
 said he ; "I have but one child j restore her to 
 me, and she is thine." 
 
 Ruthelm now hastened to the execution of 
 his plans. He carefully made his measure- 
 ments, and examined the rock in all directions ; 
 but on every side itpresented a wall nearly perpen- 
 dicular, and smooth as the surface of the floor. 
 
 Pensive and confounded, he wandered round 
 and round the mountain, in the hope of finding 
 
THE devil's ladder. 277 
 
 something like an accessible place for the com- 
 mencement of his nndertaking, until the ap- 
 proach of night obliged him to desist his useless 
 search. Already was he on his return home, 
 when a little dwarf stepped before him in his 
 path. " Have you not heard, good sir,'* said 
 the little figure, ** of the beautiful Garlinde, 
 who dwells on the summit of this rock ? She is 
 my pupil, and if you will marry her I will give 
 her to you." " Indeed !" said the knight, offer- 
 ing his hand, but shaking his head sorrowfully 
 with the smile of incredulity. " I am but a 
 dwarf in your eyes," replied the little good man, 
 « and I know I talk like a giant ; but the lovely 
 child is for you if you chuse ; only remember, 
 upon this condition that you find not the road to 
 her too difficult ; and indeed the prize is worth 
 the risk, for, upon the faith of a dwarf, no maid 
 of thellhingau can dispute with mine for beauty, 
 wit, or gentleness." 
 
 The little good man smiled and disappeared in 
 an adjoining wood, and Ruth elm, thinking that 
 this little figure had been jesting, thought nothing 
 more about him, but seating himself upon a 
 rock, was soou absorbed in his own sorrowful 
 meditations. There musing, with his eyes fixed 
 upon the summit of the mountain before him, 
 in a broken voice, he sighed : " Ah, if I had 
 
 T S 
 
278 THE devil's ladder. 
 
 but wings to reach the top !'* -~ " You may reach 
 the top without wings,** said a voice. The 
 knight, astonislied, looked around, and saw 
 standing near him a httle old man, who tapped 
 him familiarly on the shoulder. 
 
 " It was my brother who just now spoke to 
 you/* said this little old man. " I overheard 
 what he told you. The father of Garlinde of- 
 fended him ; but a punishment of four years* 
 duration has been inflicted, and that is enough. 
 The beautiful and lovely maid is none the worse 
 for the mountain air. I love her as my child, 
 and should wish nothing better than to see her 
 under the protection of such a knight as you. 
 My brother has given you his word, and in that 
 we never fail. Take this little bell, and descend 
 into the Whisper Thai. There you will find the 
 entrance of a cave, overhung with a beech tree, 
 and a poplar grownig from the same trunk. My 
 younger brother dwells there, and will come 
 when he hears this signal. You will tell liim it 
 is I who have sent you ; and pray him to make 
 you a ladder as higli as Ked rich's height. You 
 may then reach the summit without danger.** 
 Ruthelm took the bell, and was about to ask 
 some questions, but the little old man had disap- 
 peared. 
 
THE devil's ladder. 279 
 
 Iliithelm was for some minutes lost in amaze- 
 ment. He fancied himself awakening from a 
 dream, but the recollection of the bell seemed 
 very like reality. The first little old man also 
 recurred to his mind, and he now repeated over 
 to himself every word of the second little figure 
 which had just parted from him. He deter- 
 mined punctually to follow these directions. He 
 hastened to the Whisper Thall, found the cave, 
 which was an abandoned mine, and gave three 
 strokes with his little bell. At the third stroke 
 there appeared from the bottom of the mine a 
 little grey-headed old dwarf, with a miner's 
 lamp in his hand, and he demanded of Ruthelm 
 what it was he wanted. 
 
 The knight explained the object of his visit, 
 and received the order to attend on the followinar 
 
 o 
 
 morning at the foot of Kedrich. The dwarf 
 then drawing up his diminutive body, gave three 
 shrill whistles, and immediately the valley was 
 filled with little figures armed with hammers, 
 saws, and pickaxes. The knight, far distant on 
 his return home, heard the shock of hammers, 
 the noise of hatchets, and the crash of fallinar 
 trees, and his heart palpitated with hope and 
 
 joy. 
 
 T 4 
 
280 THE DEVIL*S LADDER. 
 
 At the first crowing of the harbinger of morn, 
 Ruthelm hastened to the foot of Kedrich, and 
 there he found a ladder raised, and firmly fixed. 
 
 With the eagerness of unbounded joy, which 
 sees no danger, Ruthelm now rushed forward to 
 commence his arduous task, but at the first step, 
 when he lifted up his eyes to the fearful height 
 above him, he looked and shuddered. Hope, 
 however, brought fresh courage to his assistance, 
 and he advanced. 
 
 Aurora had just begun to tinge with rosy 
 streaks the ^\ide horizon round, as Ruthelm 
 gained the height of Kedrich. There he saw 
 before him the fair object of his toil and care, 
 the beauteous Garlinde, lying upon a bed of 
 moss, and surrounded with all tlie finest per- 
 fumed flowers of the mountain. vShe was in a 
 profound sleep. The knight, transfixed by the 
 lovely form before him, gazed in rapturous ad- 
 miration. She awoke, and opened her bright 
 blue eyes. The knight advanced, and kneeling, 
 told her that he was come to conduct her to her 
 father. Garlinde, taken by suj'prize, rose has- 
 tily from her couch ; but tears of joy and blushes 
 were her only answer. Presently, the old dwarf 
 appeared, who had carried away the beauteous 
 Garlinde ; and with him came the little old mo- 
 
THE devil's ladder. ^81 
 
 ther, who served as nurse to the lovely captive. 
 The old dwarf advancing took the hand of the 
 fair Garlinde, and resigning it to the knight, 
 said, " Take her, and protect her, and be more 
 hospitable than her father. But you have yet 
 further perils to pay for her ransom. Go you 
 the way by which you came. We know where 
 to find a more convenient road.'* 
 
 Ruthelm, full of hope and confidence, did not 
 wait for further orders. As for Garlinde, she 
 was led by her little old nurse through a sub- 
 terraneous passage to the foot of the rock, 
 where, hidden from human view, was a secret 
 entrance. The little old nurse on quitting her 
 charge, handed her a casket of precious stones, 
 and said, — "Take it, my child, there is the 
 dowry I have collected for thee." — Garlinde, 
 with tears in lier eyes, thanked the good little 
 woman for all her kindness, and bade adieu. 
 
 Ruthelm, now in possession of her, in whom 
 rested his brightest hopes in life, led the way to- 
 w^ards the burg. 
 
 The meeting must be supposed, for who could 
 describe the joy, tlie transports of the hap})y 
 father in clasping to his arms the only remain- 
 ing object of his tenderness, his long lost darling 
 child ! 
 
282 THE devil's ladder. 
 
 Corrected by this long and painful trial, Sibo 
 de Lorch from henceforth was an altered man ; 
 his heart opened to tlie pleasure of obliging 
 others, and every stranger who presented him- 
 self at Lorrich was sure to find at Sibo*s burg 
 the hospitality required. 
 
 Ruthelm obtained the hand of the lovely Gar- 
 linde, and the fond couple lived through their 
 long lives in a state of happiness uninterrupted. 
 
 The little old men of the mountain were never 
 known to renew their acquaintance with the 
 happy pair; though many kind offices, as it is said, 
 were attributed by the knight and his fan' lady 
 to tlie little old friends of their early days, and 
 certain it is, that at every lying-in the good old 
 nurse brought a rich present to the new-born. 
 
 The wonderful ladder to the summit of this 
 lofty and precipitous rock still exists, and the 
 inhabitants of the neighbourhood continue to 
 regard it as the work of goblins. Hence it has 
 received the name of L'Echelle du Diable, or 
 the Devil's Ladder. 
 
THE RHINGAU. 283 
 
 From the town of Lorrich commences that 
 much celebrated and most luxuriant part of the 
 country of the Rhine, called the Rhingau. 
 This is a large tract of the richest and most 
 highly cultivated land, extending along the 
 northern bank of the Rhine, nearly to the con- 
 fluence of the Maine, and many miles into the 
 interior of the beautiful little territory of the 
 Prince of Nassau. 
 
 The Rhingau is a district which seems as if it 
 enjoyed a climate even more favourable than the 
 surrounding country. It is sheltered from the 
 keen winds at every point by ranges of blue and 
 lofty mountains. It comprizes valleys, diversi- 
 fied with smiling villages, ornamented villas, 
 ancient chateaux, ruined monasteries, and di- 
 lapidated nunneries, sunny hills co^•ered with 
 luxuriant vines, from whence are drawn the rich- 
 est and most delicious of the Rhenish wines, 
 majestic heights crowned witli thick and varied 
 woods, with moss-grown towers, or other ves- 
 tiges of the feudal times. In short, the Rhingau 
 may justly be called the rich garden of Germany, 
 tlie vale of Tempe in the west, the Paradise of 
 Bacchus. 
 
 The brilliancy of the day, and the enchanting 
 scenery around, now invited us to quit the bark, 
 
284< ASMANNHAUSEN. JOHANNISBERG. 
 
 and to pursue our way on foot, and the invi- 
 tation gladly accepted as well by my two com- 
 panions as myself, we ordered the boatman to 
 steer to the northern shore, and there to land 
 us. 
 
 Now at liberty, we ranged the luxuriant vine- 
 yards on the mountain's sides, and climbed the 
 steeps where lately the delighted eye had roamed. 
 
 From the neighbouring heights of Asmann- 
 hausen (famous for its red wine) some of the 
 riches of the Rhingau were spread before our 
 view, and amongst the loftiest of tlie grape- 
 crowned mountains, Johannisberg reared its 
 sunny head, if rivalled, not outvied by any ^•ine- 
 yard of the Rhine. Looking down upon the 
 silv^ery stream, it seemed like a steady lake en- 
 closed by high and verdant mountains, and in 
 its bright and placid surface were reflected many 
 of the numerous villages which stand upon the 
 water's edge. On the opposite bank are seen 
 the ruins of the three ancient castles of Falken- 
 bourg, Rheinstein, and Pfalzberg. 
 
 Pursuing our course along the northern shore, 
 we arrived at the little town of Riidesheim, also 
 celebrated for its wine. Near adjoining, rises the 
 bold mountain from whence, principally, this 
 
BINGEN. LA TOUR d'hATTON. 285 
 
 town derives its justly-acquired celebrity, and 
 on the cloud-capped summit is still seen a vestige 
 of the castle formerly belonging to the knights 
 of Riidesheim, as celebrated for their valour in 
 former days, as the mountain for its wine. A 
 little higher up, on the opposite side, a sudden 
 bend shews the river rushing violently over a 
 bed of rocks, and under the dark shadow of a lofty 
 mountain stands the ancient town of Bingen. 
 Here the navigation of the Rhine is again much 
 impeded by dangerous currents, and in the 
 centre of the river, standing upon a rock, is a 
 little old tower in ruins. It is probable that 
 this building w as originally placed here as a pro- 
 tection to the navigators in passing the danger- 
 ous currents and sunken rocks which surround it; 
 tradition, however, assigns a different reason for 
 its origin. It is called " La Tour d*Hatton, " 
 and is said to have been built by one Hatton, 
 Archbishop of Mayence, in the 10th century. 
 But here is the ancient traditionary history of 
 
 LA TOUR D'HATTON. 
 
 Hatton, Archbishop of Mayence, was a man 
 hard hearted and avaricious, who opened his 
 hand oflener to bless than to give. 
 
286 LA TOUR d'hatton. 
 
 During his episcopal reign, there happened a 
 terrible famine throughout the country of the 
 Rhine, and numbers met a miserable death. 
 
 Crowds of half famished wretches assembled 
 round the palace of the Arclibishop at Mayence, 
 and demanded bread. The Archbishop, insen- 
 sible to their sufferings, cruelly refused to relieve 
 their wants, although his granaries were filled 
 with grain, and he treated the starving supplicants 
 as idlers who would not work. With their suffer- 
 ings, however, their clamour became greater, 
 and Hatton at last proclaimed that one of his 
 granaries should be opened to the populace. 
 In rushed men, women, and children of all ages, 
 but a band of archers was in attendance, who 
 now surrounded the building, and closing the 
 doors, set fire to the whole granary. 
 
 Here was a spectacle so liorrible, that stones 
 might have wept, but in the midst of this ter- 
 rifying scene, Hatton jeered the sufferers in their 
 torments, asking them if tliey heard not the 
 squeaking of the rats amongst the grain. 
 
 But behold the just vengeance of offended 
 heaven. Enormous swarms of rats over-ran 
 the palace of the Archbishop, so that no one 
 could protect himself. 
 
LA TOUR d'hatton, 287 
 
 The more killed, so many more there came. 
 The whole palace was one continued swarm, and 
 in the general terror every one sought only to 
 save himself. So great was the terror of Hatton, 
 that he fled towards Bingen, and built a tower 
 in the middle of the Rhine, hoping there to es- 
 cape from the dreadful pest around him. The 
 tower built, he hastened to take refuge in it, 
 but the rats, still pursuing, followed him into the 
 boat which conveyed him to his new abode. 
 Increased swarms swam across the Rhine, and 
 climbed the tower, and there falling upon the 
 now conscience-stricken Hatton, they devoured 
 him alive, leaving not a vestige of himself or 
 dress behind. It is said in the neighbourhood 
 that his spirit has continued ever since occasion- 
 ally to appear over this tower in the form of a 
 dense fog. Possibly this may be the reason that 
 since his fearful end no one has ever ventured 
 to inhabit this solitary abode, which is now a 
 ruin, and is called even to this day Hatton's 
 Tower, or the Tower of Rats. 
 
 The situation of Bingen is all that can be 
 imagined of luxuriant and romantic scenery 
 
^88 BINGEN. BINGERLOCH. 
 
 intermingled with the wild and terrible. Close 
 behind the town a chain of dark wooded moun- 
 tains forms an amphitheatre, which ending ab- 
 ruptly in black and rugged rocks, plunges into 
 a deep gulf, and there causes the much dreaded 
 whirlpool, called Bingerloch. The river Nah 
 forcing its way through a defile of rocks, here 
 mingles its troubled waters with the Rhine, and 
 lends its assistance to increase the strife. Hang- 
 ing on a neighbouring steep is seen a ruined 
 castle, and in the distance, peeping between the 
 trees, are the remains of what was once a church. 
 — Such is the scene before us on the other 
 side of the river. Around us, the picture, if 
 less impressive in the wild and terrible, yet ex- 
 cels in the more attractive charms of boldness 
 with luxuriance. 
 
 On one side Rudesheim's rich mountain 
 spreads its glowing treasures to the imshadowed 
 sun, and the creeping ivy and dark brown moss 
 clinging to the grey tower*s mouldering w^alls, 
 hide the barrenness of this lofty top. Be- 
 hind, and rising highest of a surrounding group, 
 another rocky summit uplifts another ancient 
 and decaying castle called Ehrenfels, a name 
 once as well known as dreaded, now as little 
 known as cared for. 
 
GEISENHEIM. 289 
 
 The road before us presents a range of moun- 
 tain vineyards, which joining the wooded heights 
 above, descend in an inverted curve to the river's 
 undulating bank. A Uttle further on we passed 
 the melanclioly looking ruins of the ancient nun- 
 nery of Eubingen, founded by a holy lady named 
 Hildegard, famed in this neighbourhood for her 
 noble family, her rigid i)iety, and prophetic writ- 
 ings ; but probably none of these causes of cele- 
 brity have extended very far beyond the limits 
 of their glooming mansion, so let the holy lady's 
 fame rest with her in the silent tomb, and when 
 she awakes to settle her account, may she have 
 full credit for all the benefits which she has ren- 
 dered to mankind by her prophecies and penances. 
 
 The mountain ransre has here receded from 
 the Ilhine, and running far into the north forms 
 in the horizon a widely stretching barrier of blue. 
 On the opposite side of the river, the mountains 
 appear as if abruptly terminating behind the 
 towni of Bingen, but presently the chain is seen 
 stretching far into the south, and forming ano- 
 ther high barrier of blue, corresponding with the 
 lofty barrier in the north. 
 
 Hard by the ruined nunnery of Eubingen, is 
 the little tov\'n of Geisenheim. Here by previous 
 arrangement was to be our dinner station, but as 
 
 VOL. I. u 
 
290 TERMINATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE RHINE 
 
 the remainder of our party had net yet arrived, 
 ^we entered a neat little inn, which first pre- 
 sented itself. 
 
 Ample time having been allowed to us for 
 partaking of our host's good cheer, and for drink- 
 ing each a bottle of his old hock, with another of 
 the very best by way of mutual pledge, our mas- 
 ter-boatman came to announce that the period 
 for departure had arrived. 
 
 Now near the termination of our voyage, we 
 filled up for this good man a full bumper of our 
 best, and thanking him for his skill and care in 
 bringing us safely througli all the perils of the 
 Rhine, we told him to choose two of his own fa- 
 vorite bottles for a merry-making with his com- 
 rades, and to carry on board with him half a 
 dozen bottles of the best llhenisli for our own 
 private stock. Our host, with seeming pride as 
 well as pleasure, now sallied forth to seek 
 amongst his stores below for what he signifi- 
 cantly assured us would do him credit. Not 
 doubting that our boatman would punctually 
 perform his promise of seeing this little stock 
 safely stowed on board, we now set out again to 
 pursue our way on foot along the river's bank. 
 
 The valley of the Rhine may here be consi- 
 dered a8 terminating, and with it the bold and 
 
TERRITORY OF THE PRINCE OF NASSAU. 291 
 
 picturesque scenery. But the receding moun- 
 tains throw open to the view, on either side the 
 river, a rich extent of country, abounding in all 
 the charms of luxuriant fertility and varied cul- 
 tivation. The sunny slopes covered with the 
 thriving vine present a smooth and undulating sur- 
 face of glowing verdure. Orchards interspersed 
 in all directions give shade and variety to the 
 scene ; and, for the rest, it is like an open and 
 richly cultivated garden, through which flows 
 in a meandering course the broad transparent 
 Rhine. Little towns and numerous cheerful vil- 
 lages throw around an air of comfort, which seems 
 to tell of an industrious and contented people, 
 as also of a wise and prudent prince j for, although 
 a long and familiar acquaintance with the inha- 
 bitants is necessary to form a correct judgment 
 of the genius and manners of a nation, yet very 
 little observation is sufficient to give a pretty ac- 
 curate idea of the nature of its government. 
 The desolating effects of despotism, or the 
 benign influence of a mild and liberal form of 
 government, are so strongly marked, that they 
 cannot fail to strike the eye even of the most 
 careless traveller ; nor can this mild influence be 
 mistaken or overlooked in the smihng country 
 and happy peasantry here northward of the Rhine. 
 This is part of the territory of the young and en- 
 ightened Prince of Nassau, under whose govern- 
 
 u 9. 
 
292 ANECDOTE OF THE PRINCE OF NASSAU. 
 
 ment the liberty of the subject, and of the press, 
 is perhaps more respected than in any other of 
 the German states. 
 
 Relative to this young prince, my friend the cap- 
 tain related to me an anecdote which some sliort 
 time ago occurred, and which., although trifiiiig 
 in its nature, is yet interesting, as marking a 
 dignified and spirited character. 
 
 This prince, like the sovereigns of the other 
 petty states of Germany, which support a larger 
 standing army than can be employed at home, per- 
 Hiits his extra forces to enter into foreign service. 
 A part of this force had accordingly entered into 
 the service of fhe King of the Netherlands, and 
 of course became subjected to the military dis- 
 cipline of that king's troops. It happened that 
 some order was given by the Dutch commanding 
 officer for a trifling alteration in the dress or ac- 
 coutrements of the soldiers, and non-observance 
 of this order w^as to subject the offenders to 
 punishment. The General of the Nassau troops, 
 considering that this order could not properly 
 apply to the men under his command, gave them 
 a counter-order. 
 
 On the next parade day all the regiments 
 shewed a due observance of this direction, with 
 the exception of those belonging to the Prince 
 
ANECDOTE OF THE PRINCE OF NASSAU. 293 
 
 of Nassau. Their general officer was now called 
 out in open parade, and subjected to severe re» 
 buke from tlie Dutch commander in cliief. The 
 general remonstrated on the ground that he was 
 acting under the autliority of his master the 
 Prince of Nassau, and that without permission 
 lie could not feel liimself justified in allowing any 
 alteration in the dress of the soldiers under his 
 command. This was considered an act of dan- 
 gerous insubordination and open defiance, and 
 the general was put under arrest. The proceed- 
 ing of the Dutch commander was afterwards ap- 
 proved of and confirmed by the king, and the du- 
 ration of imprisonment for the refractory gene- 
 ral was limited to the period of his obduracy. In 
 the mean time, however, information of this af- 
 front was conveyed to the prince. Like a spirited 
 man under the influence of insulted feelings, he 
 considered not his own inferior power, but wrote 
 to the King of the Netherlands demanding repa- 
 ration. 
 
 The general was forthwith released, but the 
 troops under his command were instantly recalled 
 by an order from the prince, who not only signified 
 his approval of his servant's conduct by investing 
 him with honours, but shewed his sensibility of 
 the insult thus put upon him, by forbidding any 
 
 u 3 
 
294 BIBERICH. 
 
 of his soldiers for the future to enter into the 
 service of the King of the Netherlands. 
 
 But whilst talking about the Prince of Nassau, 
 our attention had been so occupied tliat we liad 
 forgotten our little bark, which was now making 
 way far ahead of us, and as the Rhine here pur- 
 sues a very broad and winding course, we 
 thought it prudent to resume our station on 
 board, lest a longer separation might render it dif- 
 ficult to return ; we therefore hailed the boat 
 whilst yet within hearing, but it being now de- 
 pendent upon its sails and oars, some tacking 
 and trouble were required to bring it to the shore. 
 
 'Ilie appearance of the Rhine here is some- 
 thing like an inland sea, with little islands inter- 
 spersed about the centre, and many of them only 
 a few inches above the surface of the water. 
 These are chiefly occupied by osiers and weep- 
 ing willows ; but some present the appearance 
 of rich water meadows, and on many of these 
 were groups of peasantry employed in cutting 
 their luxuriant crops of grass. Here on tlie left 
 bank of the river, situated on the water's edge, is 
 a handsome chateau, the summer residence of 
 the Prince of Nassau. — But our boat is at the 
 green bank side, — in we stept, and pusliing off 
 stood out towards the opposite shore. During 
 
GERMAN STUDENTS. 295 
 
 our absence there had been an addition of five to 
 our party. These were five of those strange 
 beings, in their fancy dresses and long flowing 
 hair, called German Students, who, costumed 
 after their own wild fancies, with each a knapsack 
 on his back, a small allowance of money in his 
 pocket, and a head filled with wild romantic 
 notions upon almost every subject moral and po- 
 litical, go in parties roaming and raving about 
 the neighbouring countries, as far from home as 
 their purses and summer vacation will permit, in 
 search, as they profess, of knowledge and expe- 
 rience ; but, in fact, more frequently to indulge 
 in the wildest and the coarsest dissipation. 
 
 With pipes in their mouths, and a sort of 
 bludgeon in their hands, these sturdy vagrant- 
 like companies are found throughout almost 
 every part of Germany, and often many hundred 
 miles from home. With the scholastic youths, 
 however, of our present party, I mean not to 
 find fault, for I had nothing to complain of. 
 Their dresses and appearance altogether were 
 absurd enough, but during our short acquain- 
 tance I was not troubled with that boisterous 
 mirth and forward insolence so peculiar to these 
 roving troops just let loose from school, and 
 fresh crammed with German metaphysics. 
 
 u 4 
 
Q9^ GERMAN STUDENTS* 
 
 Much has been said by modern writers, civil, 
 and pohtical, on the moral effect of the course of 
 education adopted in those seminaries of learning, 
 which send forth such united groups of students, 
 in every direction througliout Germany. These, 
 for the most part, issue from the universities 
 of the Prusssian monarch; and as every individual 
 amongst them must by law serve in the military 
 ranks some portion of that time which in other 
 countries is allotted to prepare the mind of youth 
 for the part which he is to act in the great 
 theatre of life, it cannot be doubted that import- 
 ant consequences must ensue. Future historians 
 will probably have to record this system of edu- 
 cation as the nucleus of great revolutions. 
 Amongst these students are to be found the 
 younger branches of many families of distinction 
 in their own country ; their dress, both in and out 
 of their academies, distinguishes them from 
 all other classes of men ; they indulge in tlie 
 wildest fancies of theoretic philosophy, at a time 
 of life when enthusiasm is at its highest pitch, 
 and they naturally acquire an esprit de corps 
 Vhich may be turned to the most important pur- 
 ■poses. The taste for a military life, unites with 
 that for the doctrines of their favorite authors. 
 Already have they become a formidable phalanx 
 even to their own government, and have shewn 
 themselves "jealous and quick in quarrel" ready 
 
GERIMAN STUDENTS. "^Q? 
 
 to seek " the bubble reputation even in the can- 
 non's mouth.'* 
 
 The young men \\'lio liad joined our present 
 party, complained loudly of their want of liberty, 
 as well moral as political. They railed against 
 the restraint imposed by arbitrary power upon 
 the freedom of thought, and of the press, as also 
 upon their feelings of personal right. — "Whilst 
 the whole world," say they, "is open to the 
 youths of other nations, rulers prescribe oiu' 
 bounds : these are, indeed, extensive, but to be 
 found beyond them without permission, is a crime 
 w^hich subjects us to severe punishment; a first 
 offence to temporary imprisonment ; a second, to 
 a more extended confinement ; and a tliird, to 
 incarceration for life." Reflecting on these 
 marks of the collar, I silently congratulated 
 myself that I was an Englishman. 
 
 To contrast the universities of our own coun- 
 try wdtii these seminaries of physico-political 
 education, we have only to compare their fruits. 
 The academic dress of our colleges never extends 
 beyond their confines ; the student is left to such 
 pursuits as may best accord with his taste and na- 
 tural qualities ; he directs his reading to tlie objects 
 of his future destination, and having for a time 
 submitted to the discipline necessary for control- 
 
298 GERMAN STUDENTS. 
 
 ling youthful impetuosity, he walks forth into the 
 world a mere individual, with habits chastened 
 by learning, with a mind composed by study, and 
 with passions tranquillized in proportion to the 
 information he has acquired, ready to fill that 
 character in society, civil or military, which his 
 pride, or his inclination, or his ability may lead 
 him to aspire to. No galling restrictions thwart 
 his will, or control his person ; to him the world 
 is open, and he is free. 
 
 The German student is a creature of another 
 description. Trained from infancy under the 
 arbitrary will of some superior, he reaches the 
 rigid discipline of the schools. Here he associates 
 with enthusiasts, whose aim is to distinguish them- 
 selves by bold enterprize and daring adventure. 
 
 The wildest doctrines animate the whole fra- 
 ternity ; they become associated both in moral 
 and political feeling. In due time they enter 
 upon their military duties, with all those fierce 
 and uncontrolled passions incident to their time 
 of life. Themselves smarting under tyranny 
 they become tyrants in their tiu'n, and the gentler 
 arts of life are altogether neglected and despised. 
 Many splendid exceptions might, no doubt, be 
 selected, but we are now considering general 
 principles and practical results. The rising gene- 
 
GERMAN STUDENTS. ^99 
 
 ration of the Iiigher classes, sent forth in vast 
 numbers thus quaUfied, appear to be calculated 
 to produce a moral change in the habits of the 
 country, and, possibly, a complete revolution in 
 its government. Like the Scotch covenanters, 
 they have only to unite in some favorite dogma 
 of religious or political creed, give their cause 
 the title of" //o/y," raise the banner of sedition, 
 and involve their country in all the miseries of 
 civil discord. 
 
 Being now on board without much to occupy 
 us, we set about constructing a little table on 
 deck, and were soon seated before our bottles and 
 other stores. The usual courtesy of foreign man- 
 ners requiring that we should invite those about 
 us to partake of our wine, our five new compa- 
 nions, with all the ease of foreigners on such oc- 
 casions, accepted our invitation. Under these 
 circumstances, we of course soon became better 
 acquainted, and it was not long before we learnt 
 from them that they had quitted their university 
 at Berlin about six weeks ago, that they had pur- 
 sued their route hither on foot, through sucli and 
 such towns, and tliat they were now proceeding 
 to visit Mayence and Frankfort, on their way 
 home. This may give some notion of the pedes- 
 trian powers at least of these young scholars. 
 
300 APPROACH TO 3IAYENCE. 
 
 The Rhine still flows in a broad smooth course 
 througli a beautiful and fertile country, but the 
 scenery is of a description rather to delight tlie eye 
 than to surprize the mind, and to encourage, ra- 
 ther than to suspend sociability and conversation. 
 
 The bottles passed merrily round our little 
 varied group, and cheerfulness and good humour 
 made us all fellow-travellers well met. Many a 
 road anecdote and adventure called forth the 
 hearty, and sometimes rather boisterous laugh, 
 but this last was only occasional, and mirth and 
 good humour wiled away the afternoon. 
 
 There being but little wind, we had for some 
 time past, and as soon as the river permitted, 
 resumed the towing rope, and although this was 
 now of an amazing length, yet the effect upon 
 our progress was very evident. 
 
 Between six and seven o'clock, we had made 
 a reacli in the river, which brought before our 
 view the venerable towers of the once famous 
 Archiepiscopal Capital, and chief electoral town 
 of Germany. 
 
 Now near the completion of our voyage and 
 the period of our separation, I proposed, as a 
 prelude to our long farewell, that first the bum- 
 
APPROACH TO MAYENCE. 301 
 
 per slioiild go round to our mutual welfare. The 
 brimfull glasses met over the centre of our rude 
 table, and each in his own mother tongue pro- 
 nounced the social blessing. The next bumper 
 v.as to be to the honor of our king and country ; 
 but who was to take the lead ! loud acclamation 
 presently announced in favor of the proposer of 
 the toast, and " TJie King of England" resound- 
 ed alono; the banks on either shore. Our national 
 anthem of " God save the King" was then called 
 for, and I gave it, at least in the true English 
 style, with all my heart. 
 
 Next in a full bumper came, " Der Konig von 
 Preussen, und moge er leben um aufgeklart zu 
 werden !" and in a chorus of five voices, Prussia's 
 national air, — and next with cordial warmth was 
 drank, "La RepubHque Helvetique, et qu'elle 
 soit pour jamais !" This was followed by a fa- 
 vorite Ranz de Vach, given by my two Swiss 
 comrades, and with an earnestness of feeling 
 whicli bespoke as much love of country as could 
 inspire the breast of man. Two or three other 
 songs followed, in whicli I caused all the crew to 
 join, at least in making a noise, and in which I 
 succeeded to the utmost of my wishes, by promis- 
 ing an additional cup of Rhenish to the loud- 
 est voices. But our jollification was put a stop 
 to when at its highest pitch, for presently the 
 
302 TERMINATION OF THE RHINE VOYAGE. 
 
 town of Mayence appearing full in view, all was 
 preparation for the approaching bustle, and a 
 clear deck being required for the convenience of 
 our steersman, in piloting through a crowd of 
 vessels, our whole party was put to flight. 
 
 By the time that each had singled out his lug- 
 gage, the motion of the bark had ceased, and we 
 were stationary along-side the quay. 
 
 It was now all darkness, bustle, and confusion ; 
 but in the midst of this there was many a hand to be 
 shaken, and many a farewell to be said ; for after 
 having been shut up in a narrow space for three 
 days, although it be \vith strangers, yet there is a 
 something in the idea of an eternal separation, 
 even after a short, transitory acquaintance, which 
 conveys in the extended hand somewhat more 
 than a mere stranger's feeling. I w^ill not talk of 
 my own feelings on this occasion, for I have a 
 better instance to produce, one where nature 
 may be presumed to shew itself free from all dis- 
 guise. This was in the two little girls of our 
 female companion. 
 
 My friend the Swiss Captain liad been so suc- 
 cessful in his good natured endeavours to amuse 
 these little children,and to beguile the tediousness 
 of their three days' captivity, that to them tlie long 
 
TERMINATION OF THE RHINE VOYAGE. 303 
 
 anticipated moment of release was forgotten un- 
 der the weight of overwhelming woe, brouglit 
 with the period of separation ; nature here could 
 not be stifled, but in the bursting sob pro- 
 claimed herself without disguise. 
 
 Time and experience in the world enables us 
 to meet this sort of conflict against nature more 
 successfully, though still I must believe that it ia 
 ever, more or less, a struggle. 
 
 The young officer now took the two weeping 
 children in his arms, and hugging them until 
 their sobs had ceased, with kind words and kisses 
 he handed them over to their mother's charge ; 
 but their grief then broke out afresh, and louder 
 than before. I was standing by, and saw the 
 averted face of the young soldier, as he abruptly 
 turned away and left the cabin ; I followed him 
 on deck, and by a sort of natural impulse took 
 him by tlie hand. The bright moon was now up, 
 and its pale light fell upon the scarred face and 
 toil-worn features of this youthful warrior ; there 
 was a smile upon his countenance, but the half- 
 wiped tear was visible : he seemed to think that 
 I observed it, and that some apology was neces- 
 sary, for with a squeeze of the hand he said, 
 " Mon ami, voiis n'etes pas pere, mot, je le suis.'* 
 We now stepped on to the quay, and whilst his 
 
30 i MAYENCE. MINSTRELS. 
 
 brother was giving directions to tlie boatman 
 about our luggage, we two walked forward 
 tqwards the inn. 
 
 On reaching our quarters, the iii'st direction, 
 as usual, was for tlie immediate preparation of a 
 meal, and after a comfortable alteration in our 
 dresses, we sat down to a well-served supper in the 
 true German style. But better than all the dishes, 
 to my liking, was the music. The arrival of the 
 strangers, liad attracted two of those mendicant 
 musicians who, in almost every town of any 
 note throughout Germany, are in attendance to 
 greet the w^eary traveller. It was always with a 
 feeling of interest mixed with pity, that J 
 looked upon these poor wandering minstrels, 
 whilst pouring forth their plaintive airs to the 
 heedless crowd of a Table-d'hote, or noisy Cafe, 
 for the humble recompence of a few sous caught 
 from the waiter's accidental change ; but in the 
 two poor children, now before me, of this ne- 
 glected race, I was struck with something more 
 than usual interest. They were brother and 
 sister, both very young, and apparently within a 
 year or two of the same age. The boy had his 
 violin and the little girl her harj). They per- 
 formed some of the favorite airs of Mozart ajid 
 Rossini with a correctness of taste and execu- 
 tion, quite extraordinary ; but the little girl ac- 
 
MaYENCE. MINSTRELS. 305 
 
 companied some of these with a voice so soft 
 and sweet, and with a manner so diffident and 
 elegant, that although I listened with delight, yet 
 the bending downcast figure of this poor child 
 of harmony, was a sight to me so full of pain- 
 ful melancholy, that I wished myself away, for, 
 
 *' Is there a heart that music cannot melt ? 
 Alas ! how is that rugged heart forlorn." 
 
 The little mmstrel had just finished the beau- 
 tiful air of " Di taiiti palpiti,** and was about to 
 commence another, when walking up to her to 
 praise her skill, and to say some kind word in re- 
 compence, Iput into her hand a dollar, and wished 
 her a good night. She looked up with a coun- 
 tenance, brightened by sudden and intense sur- 
 prize. This was the first time that I had caught 
 a distinct view of her mild and graceful features; 
 but the uplifted face of surprize was presently 
 hid in the downcast look and humble bend of 
 gratitude, and with a low courtesy, taking her 
 brother's arm, she left the room. 
 
 Various subjects of conversation occupied the 
 remainder of the evening, probably the last that 
 we three should ever pass together. Pressing 
 was the invitation of the two brothers, that I 
 would continue my route with them to their na- 
 tive country of the Giisons, and pay a visit to 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
806 MAYEXCE. 
 
 their sequestered home. The plan of. my route 
 was hardly ever formed before tlie time for ac- 
 tion had arrived, and being now in this glorious 
 state of uncertainty, I was half tempted to 
 accept the invitation. But the interesting tract 
 of country which I must thus necessarily pass 
 hastily over, decided me, after a few moments re- 
 flection, to abandon the idea, and exi)ressing the 
 hope that my course through Switzerland would 
 Jead me to their native mountains, for the pre- 
 sent I reluctantly declined. 
 
 This subject disposed of, we talked about 
 Mayence, and its objects of interest to the stran- 
 ger ; and my two friends, as they were well ac- 
 quainted with the city, determined to postpone 
 their departure until to-morrow evening, which 
 would leave the day at their disposal to my ad- 
 vantage. I felt that this was a sacrifice greater 
 tlian I ought to accept, but I had not tlie pri\i- 
 lege of refusal, and after arranging our schemes 
 for making the most of to-morrow, we separated 
 for the night. 
 
 Thursday, October 4. Rising early this 
 morning, we took a stroll about the town before 
 breakfast. 
 
 The streets of Mayence are for the most part 
 dark and narrow, and the houses generally 
 
MATEN€E. 307 
 
 lofty ; but there is something in the numerous 
 venerable buildings which plainly declares this 
 to have been once a celebrated city, already fallen 
 into neglect, and fast sinking to decay. 
 
 The solemn gloom of mouldering magnificence 
 seems to constitute the chief interest in the 
 exterior appearance of this ancient ecclesiastical 
 capital. 
 
 The gothic stone- work of its buildings can no 
 longer be admired as specimens of the sculp- 
 tor's art, for the corroding hand of time has so 
 smoothed the projecting surfaces, and blotted 
 out the chisel's lines, that the shapeless marks 
 upon the stone serve now for little more than 
 by their indistinctness to lead the mind into 
 vague conjectures upon the antiquity of the 
 work. Besides the obliterating hand of time, 
 the more suddenly destructive hand of war has 
 left its baleful marks on almost every part of 
 this venerable city ; and the wide and dreary 
 vacant spaces, or ruined fabrics, shew the sad 
 effects of the destroying cannon, and tell of the 
 late disastrous history of Mayence. 
 
 After breakfast we attended the parade, where 
 the Prussian troops, quartered here, were going 
 through their exercise. The military music 
 
 X S 
 
808 MAYENCE. CATHEDRAL. 
 
 was remarkably fine, being performed by the 
 Prussian and Austrian bands united, the town 
 being now occupied by the troops of these two 
 powers. 
 
 From the parade we visited the cathedral, a 
 massy and inelegant building of red stone, and 
 deriving its principal interest from its venerable 
 appearance. We entered by a ponderous door 
 of carved bronze, marked in several places by 
 tremendous strokes of cannon balls. The interior 
 view of the cathedral is very imposing, not by 
 the elegance of the structure, but by the vast 
 extent of heavy grandeur, which meets the eye 
 through the solemn and pervading gloom. 
 Here are many interesting and ancient monu- 
 ments, which might afford much amusing em- 
 ployment to the linguist and the antiquary, — 
 but as I pretend not to lighten the labours of this 
 class of persons, I pass over these memorials 
 of past times, not doubting that for a slight re- 
 compence the curious stranger will always find 
 much better assistance on the spot than I could 
 render him, and that, amongst other tombs of 
 the departed greats the spot where rests the 
 remains of the wife of Charlemagne will not 
 fail to be pointed out with due precision, ac- 
 companied by all the necessary particulars. 
 
MAYENCE. CATHEDRAL. 309 
 
 After spending some time in surveying monu- 
 ments, decyphering inscriptions, and examining 
 many curiosities which have escaped the vigilance 
 of enemies, our guide led us round the gloomy 
 vaulted aisles, into the damp and grass-grown 
 cloister, an interesting specimen of the simple 
 but heavy architecture of that early period com- 
 monly miscalled the dark age. 
 
 Here the attention of the stranger will pro- 
 bably be drawn by his guide to what, otherwise, 
 in all likehhood, would escape notice, a small 
 slab of red stone to the memory of a certain 
 gallant hero, the early Anacreontic bard of Ger- 
 many, called Henry Frauenlob, or in English, 
 " praise the ladies ;" and who, in return for the 
 services which he is considered to have rendered 
 to the fair sex, is still said to be holden, by all 
 German ladies, in grateful veneration. 
 
 Over the cloister are seen the destructive 
 effects of a bomb which burst upon this part of 
 the venerable structure in the famous siege of 
 1792. Another part of the building is also 
 much impaired by a similar accident, which did 
 more mischief in one moment, than perhaps 
 would have been effected by the slow hand of 
 time in the long period of 500 years* 
 
 X 3 
 
31,0 MAYENCE. —• CASERNE. 
 
 My companions being acquainted witli a 
 Prussian officer here, we now proceeded to seek 
 him out for the purpose of inspecting the mih- 
 tary part of the estabhshment in this town. 
 We soon succeeded in discovering the officer, 
 who gave us a very pohte reception, and ex- 
 pressed the greatest reacUness to be of any ser- 
 vice to his two " braves camarades, et Mon- 
 sieur PAnglois.'* 
 
 The usual form and desultory conversation of 
 a first introduction being over, we visited tlie 
 Caserne, a large, and once a liandsome public 
 building, but not improved in its appearance by 
 the use to which it is now applied. In the hirge 
 open space behind, were several detached 
 parties of Austrian and Prussian soldiers going 
 througli their various exercises and military 
 manoeuvres. All this was curious and anuising 
 enough to me, and I had the benefit of plenty 
 of explanation upon the various evolutions. I 
 also learnt many interesting particulars respect- 
 ing the military discipline of the Austrian and 
 Prussian troops. These, however, are subjects 
 which might lead into long and here misplaced 
 detail, and I shall therefore only observe that the 
 impression left upon my mind of the extreme 
 misery of a soldier's life in the Austrian or Prussian 
 service, was such as to excite wonder that 
 
MAYENCE. DRUSUS' TOWER. 31 1 
 
 human nature could be brought to a state of so 
 much painful endurance. The whole system 
 tends to reduce the common soldier to a mere 
 machine, dependent for every motion upon some 
 separate and higher powder. It seems like a 
 life of continued harassing and hardship, with- 
 out the prospect of relief or change but in 
 death, — without one ray of hope but in the 
 grave ! Such, however, cannot be the actual 
 state of the poor soldier's mind, for life could 
 not thus long endure. As the intellectual and 
 finer faculties are checked and blunted, the 
 grosser properties of human nature are left be- 
 hind to strengthen, and as these flourish and 
 gain faster hold, the victim becomes less con- 
 scious of his loss, and like the brute creation 
 lives and enjoys by instinct. Sad experience 
 has proved the truth of this, and the poor cap- 
 tive has been known to be so long inured to 
 misery, as at last to hug his chains, and be in 
 love with darkness. 
 
 We next proceeded to survey the adjoining 
 and now neglected fortifications which extend 
 around the town. Here, upon the decaying 
 ramparts, yet stands, in defiance of all the 
 stoi'ms of heaven and earth, a little round tower 
 called Drusus' Tower. Its masonry plainly 
 declares its Roman origin, and in all probability 
 
 X 4 
 
312 MAYENCE. — DRUSUS* TOWER. 
 
 it is correctly attributed to Drusus, who has 
 left about these parts many traces of his marches. 
 
 Our companion the Prussian officer had in 
 his pocket the key to the httle wooden door 
 of this tower, by which we entered. A spiral 
 flight of small stone steps leads to the ruined 
 top of this ancient look-out, from w^hence we 
 enjoyed a noble view over the town and sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 I know not whether I possess the organ of 
 altitude, as Dr. Gall would say, but certainly, 
 like the chamois, my inclination always leads 
 me to high places. On entering a new town, 
 or coming into a new country, the first impulse 
 of my inclination is to gain the highest elevation, 
 and thereby to enjoy the fullest advantages of 
 the exercise of sight. This, to a traveller, is 
 like taking a map out of his pocket, and spread- 
 ing it before him on the table ; it seems to give 
 him a general notion of his actual position, and 
 if his examination be afterwards more minute, 
 a previous bird's-eye view will be found of great 
 advantage. 
 
 Here, from the summit of this Roman tower, 
 the eye wanders over a noble extent of country, 
 presenting in one view a rich and varied scene. 
 
MAYENCE. VIEW FROM DRUSUS* TOWER. 31 
 
 Looking to the south, an undulating but less 
 fertile tract is bounded by a range of lofty 
 mountains, — towards the north, Mayence is 
 seen beneath the feet, and, on the opposite side 
 of the river, the little town of Cassel, — from 
 thence, the beautiful and gently flowing Main 
 is traced through its luxuriant country of glow- 
 ing vineyards into the distant horizon bounded 
 by the Taunus Mountains, — and westward, 
 where the Rhine sweeps onward in its broad 
 majestic course, the delighted eye follows the 
 silvery stream, nor parts with it until lost amongst 
 the purple mountains of the Rhingau. 
 
 We now returned to the inn, and my two 
 Swiss companions having made their travelling 
 arrangements, and concluded a treaty with the 
 innkeeper for the hire of a caleche as far as 
 Stutgard, we all sat down to dinner. In about 
 another hour the caleclie was at the door. My 
 kind friend, the captain, renewed his persuasions 
 that I would step in and fill the vacant seat, and 
 proceed with him to his snowy Grisons ; or, if 
 the only impediment were my wish to visit 
 Frankfort, he offered to postpone his journey 
 for two days, and to set out with me from thence. 
 This last proposal went some way towards the 
 removal of a principal difficulty, but I was not 
 so selfish as to accept the offer, and after many 
 
31 i BIAYENCE. A FAREWELL SCENE. 
 
 hearty farewells, the two brothers stepped into 
 the carriage, and we parted — in the hope that 
 accident might again in some portion of the 
 globe throw us in eacli other's way, although 
 the probability was but too apparent that this 
 was a parting — for ever. We have all of us, 
 surely, some time in our life, felt what it is to 
 be suddenly deprived of a friend, or an agree- 
 able acquaintance. It makes the loser feel 
 lonely in a crowd, indifferent to every thing 
 around, and like one forsaken. The mind dwells 
 upon its loss, and for a long time from this 
 source of pain derives its only pleasure. Thus 
 are we, as it were, innately told, that from so- 
 cial intercourse comes the chief blessing to 
 mankind on earth, and hapless must be that 
 man's state who lives a stranger to tliis feeling. 
 Short as had been my acquaintance with my 
 two late companions, I felt sensible of a loss, 
 and my mind now dwelt upon the recollection 
 of the last few days in preference to all other 
 subjects. There is, we all know, a certain 
 melancholy sentiment which creeps across the 
 mind on feeling that one is performing any 
 act, however trivial, for the last time in one's 
 life. There is so mucli awful mystery associated 
 with our notion of eternity, that it is an idea 
 which the human mind can hardly contemplate 
 without emotion. Such were my present feel- 
 
MAYENCE. THEATRE. 31,5 
 
 ings, for, to my two departed comrades, I felt 
 that I had said my last farewell. 
 
 The remainder of the afternoon I spent in wan- 
 dering through the shady walks along the green 
 margin of the Rhine's bright silvery stream, and 
 in the beautifully planted promenade around tlie 
 town. These public walks within a convenient 
 distance from any quarter, are peculiar to the con- 
 tinental towns, and besides the purpose of a de- 
 lightful ornament, must contribute much to the 
 health and comfort of the inhabitants. 
 
 In the evening I went to the play, and was 
 much amused with the representation of an inci- 
 dent in the life of the Great Frederick. The 
 interior of the theatre is tolerably spacious, and 
 well formed, but, as far as I could see by the 
 dingy light, very much in want of paint and 
 scrubbing brushes. 
 
 After the })lay I took my cup of coffee in a 
 neighbouring kafe-haus, and returned home 
 with the intention of retiring immediately to 
 bed. But on reaching the inn, I found my 
 poor little minstrel with her harp, and attended 
 by her brother, waiting my arrival. A smile of 
 joy lighted up their countenances as I entered. 
 
316 MAYENCE. MINSTRELS. 
 
 Musick, never unseasonsable with me, came now 
 mo^t suitably. With a nod of recognition and 
 assent, I sat down, and the little girl striking 
 her harp raised her voice in a plaintive German 
 air. Several other airs followed in German and 
 Italian, occasionally accompanied by her brother 
 on his violin. — If it be an act of extravagance, 
 said I to myself, as putting my hand into my 
 pocket and finding another dollar, — if it be an 
 act of extravagance, it is the last which I 
 shall ever be guilty of towards these two poor 
 children. — The slightly formed fingers of the 
 girl seemed to tremble on the strings, and I fan- 
 cied I perceived a faltering in her voice. — These 
 might have been symptoms of fatigue, or the 
 consequences of anxious expectation, but wishing 
 not to continue either, I dropped the dollar into 
 her hand. — Her features instantly bespoke the 
 realization of a cherished hope, but yet the gift 
 seemed to come like an unaccustomed and over- 
 whelming act of bounty. Unusual kindness 
 seemed to have stopped the expression of these 
 poor children's thanks. — Bending in lowly gra- 
 titude they left the room, and I retired to bed. 
 
 Friday, October 5. Took an early stroll 
 about the town, and by accident directed my 
 steps towards the market-place. It happened to 
 
MAYENCE. MARKET. 317 
 
 be market day, and the immense assemblage of 
 persons, the varieties in dress, language, and 
 appearance, rendered this a sight full of novelty 
 and amusement. The profusion of every de- 
 scription of provision was astonishing, and par- 
 ticularly of game, poultry, fruit, and vegetables. 
 Nor were the prices matter of less surprize than 
 the quantity. In Englisli money, fowls were 
 about eight-pence the couple, a brace of par- 
 tridges ten-pence, a hare five-pence. The varieties 
 of river fish were numerous and cheap beyond 
 belief. And as to fruit and vegetables, it was 
 matter of surprize to me how the prices could 
 repay the trouble of collecting and bringing to 
 market. The whole scene was one of life and 
 animation, and afforded me much amusement, 
 for a more varied group I had never seen col- 
 lected together ; and besides the variety of gro- 
 tesque figures, jabbering in a dialect to me un- 
 intelligible and uncouth, there is sometiiing to 
 my fancy highly amusing in observing the vari- 
 ous ways which people of different nations have 
 of doing the same things, even in the most 
 trifling circumstances. The lower classes of 
 society certainly afford the most ample field for 
 this sort of observation, and no opportunity per- 
 haps is more favorable than such an assemblage as 
 this, composed of the farmers and peasantry of 
 
S18 MAYENCE. QUAY. BRIDGE OF BOATS. 
 
 the surrounding country collected into one small 
 space, and exhibiting all the eagerness of rivalry, 
 amidst all the bustle of confusion. 
 
 Whilst returning to the inn to breakfast, I 
 calculated that I had now bestowed upon 
 Mayence as much time as I could conveniently 
 spare, and I determined upon setting out for 
 Frankfort by mid-day. 
 
 My arrangements being completed accord- 
 ingly, I found a full hour at my disposal after 
 breakfast. This vacant time I spent in wander- 
 ing along the quay, and in visiting the small 
 town of Cassel, on the opposite bank. 
 
 The quay is broad and handsome, and gives 
 an air of some commercial importance to the 
 exterior appearance of this city ; and the old 
 ecclesiastical palace of red stone, facing tlie 
 river, excites all that interest which belongs to a 
 sight of decaying splendour. 
 
 The approach to the town of Cassel is over a 
 bridge supported upon pontoons. As I walked 
 along I counted the number of pontoons, which 
 amounted to fifity-two. These are placed at 
 equal distances of about eighteen feet from each 
 
MAYENCE. CASSEL. 319 
 
 other, and each pontoon, as I should guess by 
 the eye, is about six feet, which gives for the 
 breadth of the river here one thousand two 
 hundred and forty-eight feet, or four hundred and 
 sixteen yards. The whole is perfectly firm, and 
 the heaviest vehicles pass and repass without the 
 slightest inconvenience ; nor is the navigation 
 for ships much impeded, for separating the 
 bridge for the passage of vessels is the work 
 only of a few minutes. 
 
 Cassel is an inconsiderable town yet hardly 
 recovered from its last bombardment, and its 
 situation as a tete du iiont subjects it too much to 
 the horrors of war to permit it to become of 
 greater importance as a town, probably, than it 
 now is. 
 
 At a little afiter 12 o'clock, I was rattling over 
 this bridge of boats in my heavy vehicle, on the 
 road to Frankfort. No sooner does the traveller 
 cross the Rhine, than he finds a change in the 
 language, and almost, it may be said, in the 
 very appearance of the people. The mix- 
 ture of French in the language and character 
 of the inhabitants of Mayence suddenly dis- 
 appears, and I now again felt that I was amongst 
 Germans. 
 
S20 HOCKHEIM. WEILBACH. HOCHST. 
 
 The distance to Frankfort is about seven 
 leagues, and the road passes through a fine fertile 
 country. 
 
 At a short distance beyond Cassel is Hock- 
 heim. This is a small town situated on a sunny 
 height, and looking down upon the Main. It is 
 surrounded by vineyards celebrated for their 
 wine ; but there is one small and sheltered hill 
 spread before the sun, which produces what has 
 acquired the reputation of being the purest of 
 tlie Rhenish wines, better known to us by the 
 name of hock. But it is to be hoped that this 
 is not the only hill from whence the true liock is 
 to be procured, or it might be an unsatisfactory 
 piece of information to some, to be told that this 
 favored spot does not present a greater space 
 than about ten acres. 
 
 Two leagues further is the small town of 
 Weilbach, where there is a very strong sul- 
 phureous spring, celebrated for its medicinal 
 qualities. 
 
 The next town of any importance is Hochst, 
 very prettily situated on the river Nidda, which, 
 just below the town, falls into the Main ; and 
 next rose before my view, in the wide and 
 fertile valley of the Main, the ancient Inau- 
 
APPROACH TO FRANKFORT. 321 
 
 gural City of the German empire. As we 
 approached, the appearance of the ^ity, its situ- 
 ation, and the beauty of the surrounding coun- 
 try were most imposing. The sun, fast sinking 
 in its west, gilded with rich and glowing colours 
 the bold wooded chain of the Taunus mountains, 
 and the bright rays darting almost horizontally 
 upon the blue slated roofs and handsome white- 
 faced houses, which look down upon the Main's 
 gently flowing and transparent stream, threw a 
 brilliant splendour over this entrance to the town, 
 and to the notion of its wealth added that of 
 elegance and comfort. But my carriage is now 
 rattling through the streets of Frankfort, and I 
 am presently set down at a magnificent hotel, 
 called " la Cour d'Angleterre,'* occupying 
 nearly one side of a handsome square or place, 
 and facing an elegantly playing fountain. 
 
 In the evening I visited the Casino, a hand- 
 some house in the same square, and here I was 
 very politely received and introduced by M. de 
 Bethmann. 
 
 The Casino is a liberal and convenient esta- 
 blishment, found in most of the principal towns 
 of Germany. It is a sort of club-house, where 
 all the foreign papers and periodical public- 
 ations are taken in, and where the best society 
 
 VOL. r. Y 
 
322 FRANKFORT. 
 
 meets in the evening to drink coffee, converse, 
 read, or play a rubber at whist. The Casino 
 here is on a very handsome scale, and possesses 
 every accommodation and comfort which can be 
 wished. The stranger will find these establish- 
 ments particularly agreeable, an introduction 
 by a member, and the insertion of his name in 
 the stranger's book, being all that is required 
 to give him free access at all times, during any 
 reasonable stay in the town. 
 
 Saturday^ October 6. To-day was spent in 
 visiting the city and its principal buildings. Most 
 of the streets are in the style of other German 
 towns, long and narrow, and the lofty old- 
 fashioned houses, although very venerable in 
 appearance, are also very gloomy. There are, 
 however, some broad and handsome streets, and 
 one in particular in the central part of the town, 
 which can boast of regularity in form, and some 
 handsome and substantial buildings. 
 
 The whole of the afternoon was spent in the 
 delightful promenades around the town. These 
 public walks exceed in beauty any thing of the 
 kind I have ever seen, and give an extra- 
 ordinary air of health, comfort, and elegance 
 to Frankfort. 
 
FRANKFORT. PUBLIC WALKS. 323 
 
 This city is built in an oval shape towards the 
 nver, and was formerly surrounded by fortifica- 
 tions. These have been entirely demolished 
 and filled up, and the space thus gained has been 
 converted into walks and gardens laid out in the 
 English fashion. 
 
 Commencing my walk from the river's bank, 
 I proceeded through spacious and shady avenues 
 of linden and acacia trees, varied with lofty 
 shrubberies of myrtles, laurels, and other ever- 
 greens, or with the grassy lawn and flower-gar- 
 den, laid out in all the elegance of our modern 
 taste. In some places a piece of water serpen- 
 tines through verdant slopes, and winds through 
 the open and ornamented garden adjoining, 
 which belongs to the handsome neighbouring 
 mansion of some wealthy merchant ; and in other 
 places the high road crosses the walk, and, pass- 
 ing through the shrubberies, opens to the view 
 the bustling town. 
 
 Through these varied and delightful scenes I 
 pursued my way until I found myself again upon 
 the river*s bank from whence I started, and I 
 now discovered that I had made tlie full circuit 
 of the town. 
 
 Y 2 
 
S24 FRANKFORT. PUBLIC WALKS. 
 
 It had been a long walk, and the sun had just 
 sunk into the west, but the square old tower of 
 the cathedral, and the surrounding heights were 
 yet gilded by the lingering rays, and the clear 
 and gently gliding stream caught here and there 
 the bright reflection. 
 
 It was the mild, delightful, and refreshing time 
 of evening, best calculated " to soothe the 
 throbbing passions into peace,'* and every thing 
 around invited " to woo lone quiet in her silent 
 walks.'* I accepted the invitation, and wander- 
 ed some time longer in the deepening shade of 
 the now deserted avenues. 
 
 The difference observable in the manners and 
 feelings of the people of different nations, was 
 one of the subjects of my meditations, and one 
 suggested by the place itself. The neat and 
 well-swept walks, the smooth sliorn lawns, the 
 ornamented parterres, and beds decked out with 
 flowers, amongst which are many rare and 
 beautiful exotics, and all open to the highway, 
 present to an Englishman a striking instance of 
 national character, and at the same time mark 
 the difference which exists in different coun- 
 tries. 
 
FRANKFORT, PUBLIC WALKS. 325 
 
 Here are no gens d \aines, or civil officers to 
 protect tliis common ])roperty, it is open at all 
 times, and to all classes. The wealthiest and 
 the poorest citizen share alike in the enjoyment 
 of it, and each has therefore the same interest in 
 its preservation. 
 
 In the course of my w^alk I met one of the 
 gardeners, and I asked him if he ever missed 
 any of his more valuable plants, or if he ever 
 saw about the gardens or shrubberies any in- 
 stances of malicious destruction or of wanton 
 waste. His answer was, " that he had been in 
 his present employment about fourteen years, 
 and that during this period he had missed a 
 plant or two, but tliat the loss was a very rare 
 occurrence ;" and as to any wilful destruction, it 
 was evidently, from the man's manner, quite un- 
 known, for he could hardly comprehend the 
 question. These walks, he informed me, are 
 supported by contributions from the towns- 
 people, who frequently make presents of any 
 thing new or curious in the way of plants and 
 slirubs for the benefit of the general effect. 
 
 All this seemed to present to me a state of 
 society so unlike what I had been accustomed 
 to, that, trifling as was the cause, it was sufficient 
 to lead the train of thoughts j and as I loitered 
 
 Y 3 
 
<526 FRANKFORT.— -CATHEDRAL. 
 
 on my way towards the inn, I could not help 
 fancying to myself how hopeless would be the 
 chance of raising public walks and flower gardens 
 such as these, around our own metropolis. I 
 know, by the time I reached my apartment, I 
 had come to the conclusion in my own mind, 
 that to effect this, would be as difficult as to pay 
 off our national debt. 
 
 Sunday^ October f. This morning, during 
 the hour of service, I visited the cathedral. 
 
 This is a large, clumsy, but venerable looking 
 edifice ; sadly disfigured by a crowd of dirty 
 little shops and booths which closely surround it. 
 Twice I walked round this nest of low and mean 
 buildings, before I could find the entrance to the 
 ancient pile. But there is little more to boast of 
 in the interior than in the exterior view. There 
 are a few ancient monuments for the gratifica- 
 tion of the antiquary, and upon the walls hang 
 some pictures which bear the stamp of great an- 
 tiquity, to which, in my eyes, they are principally 
 indebted for what little interest they possess. 
 
 Before the celebrated golden bull, which was 
 passed in the year 1355, in the reign of the Em- 
 peror Charles IV., this cathedral was the scene 
 of the coronation of the emperors of Germany. 
 
FRANKFORT. — PICTURES. 327 
 
 By this famous edict the election only of the 
 emperor was confined to the city of Frankfort 
 and the ceremony of coronation was transferred 
 to Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 The remainder of the morning I spent in ex- 
 amining the collection of pictures belonging to 
 the city. It is not a very extensive collection, 
 but boasts of some choice pictures of the Dutch 
 and Flemish schools, well worthy the stranger's 
 inspection ; as also some curiosities of the early 
 German masters. 
 
 The city also possesses a valuable museum, 
 but this having been lately removed until a 
 building in preparation should be completed, an 
 order for admission was now necessary, to have 
 procured which would have required more time 
 and trouble than I could afford. 
 
 As I had an engagement to day to dine witn 
 M. de Bethmann, my rambles were brought to an 
 earlier conclusion. 
 
 Of this gentleman, to whom for his great 
 courtesies towards me I feel much indebted, I 
 must here make some mention. 
 
 Y 4 
 
828 FRANKFORT. 
 
 M. de Bethmann, perhaps with the exception 
 of M. Rothschild, is the wealthiest of the wealthy 
 merchants of this city. He is here known by 
 the title of " le roi de Frankfort," and he ap- 
 pears to have derived this honorary appellation 
 from the worth of his private character, as well 
 as from the hospitality and splendour of his es- 
 tablishment. 
 
 I could not help being reminded yesterday 
 during my evening walk of an early and amus- 
 ing friend of mine. Monsieur Nongtongpaw. 
 Almost every object most strikingly attractive 
 by its beauty and magnificence belonged to 
 Monsieur Bethmann ; and my further enquiries 
 seemed to conhrm this character of M. de 
 Bethmann, as general monopolizer of all that 
 is elegant and costly in and about Frankfort. 
 
 His summer residence, where I now visited 
 him, is situated just at the outskirts of the town, 
 at the side of the public gardens, and facing a 
 large bronze monument, erected to the memory 
 of the brave Hessians who perished on the tak- 
 ing of the city in the revolutionary war. 
 
 A military guard of honor before the door 
 bespoke the presence of some princely visitor. I 
 
FRANKFORT. 329 
 
 was ushered with much state into the drawins:- 
 room, where I found most of the company as- 
 sembled, and enjoying the delightful afternoon 
 under the awning of a spacious balcony. Here 
 conversation was carried on until dinner was an- 
 nounced. As this afforded a good specimen of 
 a dinner party in the highest style of German 
 fashion, a short description may not be amiss. 
 
 On entering the room, the first appearance was 
 novel and imposing, as well in elegance as splen- 
 dour. Over a long and spacious table was spread 
 a service of the richest china, containing only 
 the most costly and delicious fruits. In the cen- 
 tre of the table stood in a porcelain vase, a large 
 and beautiful exotic, reaching nearly to the lofty 
 ceiling ; and at the top and bottom were two 
 other rare plants in similar vases, smaller, but 
 not less beautiful. Plate and cut glass filled up 
 the remaining space ; and opposite to each guest 
 were two richly cut decanters, filled with two 
 different sorts of wine, another decanter for 
 water, and a variety of glasses, with a reserve of 
 the finest china ])lates. 
 
 This may give some idea of the brilliancy of 
 the display, but the elegance of the coi/p (I'ml is 
 hardly to be imagined. 
 
330 FRANKFORT. 
 
 W^e now sat down, sixteen in number, and the 
 glittering of the stars and orders of the com- 
 pany, with the splendid dresses of the numerous 
 domestics, gave additional lustre to this brilliant 
 scene. 
 
 The lady and gentleman of the house were dis- 
 tinguished by no particular places at the table, but 
 each took a seat apparently as by accident. I could 
 not help remarking, however, that I found myself 
 seated between a gentleman and lady wlio could 
 talk fluently in the French, and a little in the 
 English language. Whether this were merely 
 accidental, or courteously designed I know not, 
 but I afterwards remarked that these were the 
 only two visitors in the room who appeared to 
 be acquainted with a word of our language. 
 
 As to the dishes, all these were handed round 
 by the servants, and never made their appear- 
 ance on the table ; but here I must avoid any 
 attempt at description, the profusion was 
 fatiguing, and I am little skilled in culinary 
 learning. 
 
 I will however mention one peculiarity wliich 
 struck me as being the ne plus ultra of modern re- 
 finement. 
 
FRANKFORT. 331 
 
 Behind every three or four guests was stationed 
 a man of majestic and warlike mien, clad in a 
 richly ornamented uniform, with a cocked hat 
 and high green feather. If, instead of standing 
 behind my chair, he had been seated at the table, 
 I, as a stranger, might reasonably have mistaken 
 him at least for a field-marshal. A celebrated 
 Saxon marshal, although apparelled in his military 
 uniform, was certainly less imposing in figure and 
 appearance. This noble-looking personage, how- 
 ever, behind the cliair, was consigned to more 
 ignoble duties, for his sole office seemed to be to 
 help those submitted to his care to the proper 
 wines after certain dishes. This duty he appeared 
 fully to understand, and executed it in the most 
 gallant style. He poured out in ample libations 
 the most luxuriant wines, calling out the name of 
 each, and no doubt presenting each in the most 
 approved order; but the varieties were so nu- 
 merous, and the succession so rapid, that I was 
 unable to keep pace, and long before the feast 
 was over, taste was confounded, and even 
 curiosity could carry me no further. 
 
 As to the numbers of dishes, these seemed as 
 endless as the variety, and the ceremony of eat- 
 ing was continued until it became positively 
 tedious. At last, however, the removal of the 
 napkins around the border of the table announced 
 
332 FRANKFORT. 
 
 the conclusion of the dinner, and rare hqueurs 
 came in for the finale. Perfumed waters were 
 now handed roiuid in vessels of tlie richest and 
 most elegant devices. These were not only 
 grateful for their coolness and refreshing sweet- 
 ness, but as affording an agreeable cessation from 
 eating and drinking. But it was a short pause, 
 for presently ices were brought in, and these 
 v> ere succeeded by fruits of more varieties than I 
 •can enumerate, all of whicli, whether in or out of 
 season, bore the bloom and fragrance of per- 
 fection. Wines in still greater abundance and 
 variety than before, vicing in coolness with the 
 ice, and in fragrance with the 'fruits, were now 
 pressed into the service. But I had already 
 been on harder duty than I had been accus- 
 tomed to, and I was now contented to be a 
 looker-on. 
 
 The beauty and splendour of the dinner table 
 was still preserved. No signs or remnants of a 
 feast here met the eye, — every object was seen in 
 its original purity and freshness, and tlie same 
 elegance of arrangement was preserved as when 
 we first sat down, for nothing originally on the 
 table had been touclied. 
 
 After tlie dessert and wines liad been twice 
 handed round, the company rose and adjourned 
 
THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 333 
 
 to the drawing-room, to converse and sip cof- 
 fee in the cool refreshing air of the balcony. • 
 
 In about half an hour the party broke up for 
 other engagements. The opera, as usual, on 
 Sunday evening was the principal attraction, and 
 I was invited to make one of the party to this 
 scene of gaiety and fashion. But I chose a qui- 
 eter engagement to a small family party and pri- 
 vate concert, where I was much pleased with the 
 performances of some young German ladies. 
 
 Monday, October 8. — Rose early this morn- 
 ing to prepare for a little excursion towards the 
 Taunus mountains. This is a lofty range, com- 
 mencing near Homburg, about four or five 
 leagues from Frankfort, and branching off in 
 three directions towards the Rhine, the Main, 
 and the Moselle. In these mountains rise a great 
 variety of mineral springs, which supply the 
 celebrated baths of Taunus. 
 
 I had heard much of the richness and beauty 
 of this part of the country, and my two com- 
 panions from whom I parted at Mayence strongly 
 recommended me to visit this interesting scenery. 
 My time, however, was too limited to enable me 
 to catch more than a glimpse around. 
 
334 THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Taking the road to Rodelheim, the country 
 opens hke a fertile garden, interspersed with 
 ornamented vilhis. Here tlie bold range of 
 Taunus on the right closing in the scene, directs 
 the eye over part of the luxuriant Rhingau, where 
 nature is displayed all-bounteous and beautiful. 
 
 A short distance further is the small town of 
 Kronenberg, beautifully situated at the foot of 
 Mount Altkonig. This and the Feldberg, near 
 adjoining, are the two high summits seen from 
 Frankfort, and are the loftiest of the range. 
 From hence is presented a fine expanse of fertile 
 country, varied with picturesque vallies and bold 
 mountains with their ruined castles. Of these 
 the most remarkable and interesting are the ruins 
 of the ancient castle of P^alkenstein, situated on 
 a rocky eminence not far from Kronenberg. I 
 had much curiosity to visit this memorial of early 
 times, not only on account of its great antiquity, 
 but for its remarkable situation, and the noble 
 prospect it affords. 
 
 Attached to this ancient castle is an interesting 
 tradition which was also communicated to me by 
 my late companion the Swiss captain. I fancy I 
 have already so far shewn my partiality for old 
 women's stories that I now hardly need be 
 ashamed of owning that a desire to visit the scene 
 
FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 3S5 
 
 of this tradition was a little secret motive for my 
 present curiosity. I had not, however, time 
 sufficient to enable me to gratify it fully on tliis 
 occasion ; but yet as there may be some equally 
 curious as myself in traditions, I will here give 
 this from recollection, and even if its historical 
 information should be considered dubious, the 
 very antiquity of the authority may carry with it 
 some interest to the reader. 
 
 FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 
 
 Above the fertile valley of Kronenberg, upon 
 the highest point of a steep and barren rock, are 
 seen the solitary walls of the once renowned 
 castle of Falkenstein. TJie founder of this castle 
 was a knight of a gloomy spirit, and of a cold 
 and distant manner. Irmengarde, his only 
 daughter, was beautiful and affable. If the knight 
 was inhospitable, and hard as the rock on which 
 he dwelt, the lovely Irmengarde was like the 
 evening star shedding its soft light upon the 
 desert. No one could behold her without open- 
 ing his heart to all the soft sentiments of love. 
 This was the effect of a first interview upon the 
 young knight Cunon de Sayn, whom some affairs 
 with the lord of Falkenstein had brought upon a 
 visit to the castle. 
 
336 FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 
 
 One look from Irmengarde, and a voice full of 
 charms, were the firebrands which so suddenly 
 inflamed the heart of Cunon; and on quitting 
 this scene his only consolation was in the deter- 
 mination he had made with himself to return 
 shortly to demand her hand. Eager hope has- 
 tened his return, and in a few days from the time 
 of liis departure Cunon was again a visitor at 
 Falkenstein. 
 
 The father gave him but a cold reception. 
 They stood before the window which looked far 
 over the vast and fertile country below, but after 
 the first formal greeting, silence ensued. 
 
 " There is no castle like yours for situation,'* 
 said Cunon, hoping to break tliis chilling pause, 
 *' but it is difficult of access." — 
 
 " Who is it that lias forced you to come here 
 then?" replied the fatlier. — 
 
 " Sir, — it is your daughter Irmengarde who 
 has forced me to come here a captive — I come 
 to demand her hand," said Cunon, in a fal- 
 tering voice, at the little prospect of success 
 before him. The fiither smiled : — this was a bad 
 presage. — Some moments of silence then ensued. 
 
FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 337 
 
 — " Knight," said he, " you shall have my 
 daughter; — but upon one condition.*' — " Ac- 
 cepted," interrupted the knight, *' whatever that 
 maybe." — " Well," said the father, " pierce me 
 a road through yonder rock; but it must be 
 done to-night — hear you that?" 
 
 Cunon started; then rested in suspense.— 
 The father grinned at his infatuation, and walked 
 away. 
 
 But Cunon was now deep in love ; and love is 
 a passion to which nothing seems impossible, 
 and which will hazard all. 
 
 He hastened instantly to the mines, addressed 
 himself to an old and faithful master miner, con- 
 fided in him his own situation and designs, and 
 besought his best assistance. 
 
 The old man hung his head. — " I know," said 
 he, *' that cursed lump of rock ; three hundi*ed 
 miners could scarcely succeed in eight days, and 
 to attempt it in one night!" — Sad and dejected, 
 Cunon sat down at the entrance of the mine, and 
 the dews of night ascending gradually from the 
 meadows below, he was at length enveloped in a 
 gloomy mist. Now roused from his inactive 
 state, in a fit of wild distraction, he suddenly 
 
 VOL. I. z 
 
338 FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 
 
 jumped up, and looking around like one bereft 
 of hope, he saw by his side a diminutive little 
 figure of an old man, with a beard reaching to 
 his middle, and seeming as if blanched by 
 upwards of a hundred years. 
 
 «' Kniglit," said tlie little figure, ^ " I have 
 heard what you have said to the old miner. He 
 is a fine old fellow, but I understand his trade 
 better than he." — " Who are you?" demanded 
 Cunon. 
 
 " Knight," replied the old man, " it matters 
 little to you who I am — I am not alone, but one 
 of many. To us it would be but a trifle to make 
 a convenient road to the castle through this rock 
 in an hour." 
 
 " Ah if you could ! and if you would !" ex- 
 claimed the knight. 
 
 *' I can, and I will, " — was the reply ; — 
 *' but for one recompense .... attend . . . 
 Stop the working of the mine of St. Marguerite, 
 which will soon penetrate into our sombre dwell- 
 ings, and force us to quit the mountain 
 
 . . . that is all . . . vou shall lose nothing. . . 
 to the left you will find abundant seams of ore, 
 these lie from west to east, but we are to the 
 north." 
 
PALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 339 
 
 Cunon eagerly replied, that for all the gold 
 and silver of the world, the mine of Saint Mar- 
 guerite should not continue in its present course; 
 and the little old man promised him that the 
 morning should find his wish accomplished. 
 
 Elate with joy and hope, the knight returned 
 home. But from tlie castle window, in sad and 
 silent melancholy, the lovely Irmengarde sat gaz- 
 ing at the cruel rock which rose between her 
 and her faithful lover ; for the father had already 
 told her of the knight's proposal, and of the con- 
 dition which he had accepted. 
 
 The eleventh hour had struck, when on a sud- 
 den she heard strange noises of hammers, pick- 
 axes, and iron-crows. Her heart palpitated, but 
 she feared to stay to look. 
 
 The father, awakened by the noise of tools, 
 rose and advanced to the casement of his cham- 
 ber. — " Is he mad, this knight of ours ?" mut- 
 tered the master to himself; " Is he hacking up 
 my only foot path ? — We must be wound up in 
 baskets to our castle ..." He opened the 
 casement ... an impetuous wind agitated the 
 dark and lofty forests, — all the trees bent their 
 gigantic heads. Presently the windows and 
 the doors flew open with a rushing noise, bursts 
 z '■2 
 
840 FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 
 
 of laughter pierced tlirongli the stormy air ; 
 and the affrighted Irmengarde now flew for 
 shelter and protection to her fatlier, there by 
 his side to murmur her prayers for botli. Pre- 
 sently again all was calm. It seemed as if ex- 
 hausted nature had sunk iuto repose. 
 
 The father, now beginning to breathe more 
 freely, tried to calm the fears of Irmengarde. 
 He told her, it was only the demon of the chase 
 who had passed, and that sometimes in his youth 
 he had heard the like. Irmengarde, reposing in 
 the word of her father, again besought lieaven's 
 blessing, and retired to rest. But he was not so 
 easily composed ; his conscience, not so pure as 
 that of his sweet daughter, felt not the same 
 confidence or peace. Pondering over this strange 
 event, uncertain of its meaning and fearful of 
 its result, sleep forsook him, and he closed not 
 his eyes until Aurora had cliased away the clouds 
 of night, and tlie birds liad commenced their 
 morning melodies. 
 
 With the first rays of the sun the Chevalier de 
 Sayn, upon his favourite palfrey, passed rapidly 
 over the draw-bridge. The trotting of tlie liorse 
 roused the now lialf-sleeping father, who, in 
 surprize, hastily arose, and running forward, 
 threw open his casement window. — '* Good mor- 
 
FALKENSTEIN CASTLE. 341 
 
 row, lord of Falkenstein, ** cried the knight, smil- 
 ing; " you are beautifully situated here — 
 how delightful and easy is the access!" — 
 
 Is this a dream ? am I indeed awake ? " said 
 the father, whose eyes were now struck with the 
 altered appearance of the road. 
 
 Cunon entered the castle, enjoyed the surprize 
 of Irmengarde, detailed the history of his despair, 
 and of the succour which he had received. — "I 
 keep my word, *' — said the father, comforted by 
 this recital; "I keep my word,'* and he united 
 the two lovers without delay. 
 
 The subterranean road to the castle still exists, 
 and it is called to this day " Le Chemin du Dia- 
 ble," or the Devil's Road. 
 
 In the midst of this enchanting scenery, where 
 lavish nature was now displayed in all her love- 
 liness, time slipt away unheeded, and it was 
 not until the setting sun had gilded with its part- 
 ing rays the western hemisphere, and thrown 
 over the far-stretching Rhingau a richly coloured 
 veil of various hues, darkening in the distance to 
 deep purple, that I noticed the decline of day. 
 
 z 3 
 
342 FRANKFORT. A MUSICAL PRODIGY. 
 
 Having an engagement this evening at a public 
 concert, and being still some distance fromP'rank- 
 fort, I was now obliged to hasten my return, and 
 be contented witli tliis glimpse over a tract of 
 country which, for its fertility and beauty, is de- 
 servedly designated " the garden of Germany." 
 
 The dusk of night overtook me before I 
 reached the city, but shortly after my arri\al 
 I was apparelled in my evening dress, and on my 
 way to the concert room. The performance had 
 already begun, and the room was crowded to ex- 
 cess ; but, with tlie assistance of a little interest, 
 I obtained an cHgible seat fronting the orches- 
 tra. This was the debut of a young Jew boy, 
 a juvenile performer, and a prodig}', and much 
 curiosity seemed to have been excited. His 
 countenance struck me as the finest and most 
 expressive that I had ever seen in a child; and 
 long jet black hair, curling over his shoulders, 
 was not an luibecoming singularity. He per- 
 formed on the grand piano forte, and executed 
 several very long pieces of the cramj) and diffi- 
 cult music of the German composers with taste 
 and execution truly astonishing. 
 
 At the conclusion of the concert, which was 
 filled up by various other instrumental perform- 
 ers, I took the liberty of asking the little boy 
 
FRANKFORT. DANAEKER's ARIADNE. 343 
 
 his age. *' Huit ans, Monsieur,'* was the reply j 
 but lie had now so many caresses to receive, and 
 so many questions to answer, that he hardly knew 
 wiiich way to turn, or whom to answer first. I 
 wrote down his name and age, intending to re- 
 cord my prognostication, that if this youth lived 
 we should hear much talk of the famous Jew 
 performer on the piano forte; but, unfortunately 
 for the credit of my prophecy, I mislaid my 
 memorandum, and cannot now recollect his 
 name. 
 
 Tuesday^ October f). The morning occupi- 
 ed in ins])ccting the fine collection of sculp- 
 ture belonging to Mons. Bethmann. This valua- 
 ble collection is arranged in an appropriate build- 
 ing erected for the purpose in one of the pleasure 
 gardens fronting the house, and adjoining the 
 public walks. 
 
 Here are to be seen, besides an admirable col- 
 lection of casts executed from the most celebra- 
 ted antiques, some noble specimens of the art, 
 both ancient and modern; but to my taste the 
 most striking of the whole is a beautiful and 
 full-sized statue, in white marble, of Ariadne 
 seated on a tiger. The graceful ease and per-* 
 feet loveliness of this figure surpass any thing 
 
 z 4 
 
344 FRANKFORT. DANAEKER*S ARIADNE. 
 
 of the kind that I have ever seen attempted in 
 modern sculpture. 
 
 The figure is represented recHning on one side, 
 her right arm resting on the animal's shoulder, 
 her head turned with agraceftd but pensive air, 
 with one drooping hand holding the slight and 
 falling drapery, and the other lightly supporting 
 her right foot. 
 
 This attitude, although from description it may 
 be thought constrained and intricate, struck me as 
 being no less appropriate m conception than 
 beautiful in execution. The tiger is also nobly 
 executed, and affords a spirited contrast, in its 
 fierce expression, and sinewy limbs, with the mild 
 and lovely countenance and melting softness of 
 the forsaken and disconsolate Ariadne. The 
 statue stands upon a pedestal which turns upon 
 a pivot, and thus aflfbrds convenience for viewing 
 the figure in various lights. This admirable work 
 is the production of Danaeker, a native of Stut- 
 gard, who, as I was informed, is now employed 
 by M.Bethmann on another work, as a companion 
 to this exquisite specimen of art. 
 
 As I intended quitting Frankfort this after- 
 noon by the diligence, it was now time that I 
 should set about preparing for my departure. 
 
FRANKFORT. FREE CITIES. 345 
 
 Frankfort, though certamly on the whole a fine 
 town, does not attract the attention of strangers 
 by any very remarkable buildings. 
 
 The streets, howev^er, are tolerably spacious 
 and well paved, there is also a good display of 
 numerous and well-stored shops, and the houses 
 of the bourgeois are clean, have an air of com- 
 fort, and are often stately. 
 
 Frankfort, Hamburg, Lubeck, and Bremen, 
 are the four imperial cities restored, by the power 
 of gold, and the grace of the Holy Alliance 
 assembled at Vienna, to their ancient free- 
 dom. 
 
 A small surrounding territory of about 65,480 
 acres in extent, including two towns and six 
 large villages, was graciously bestowed upon 
 the free city of Frankfort, and by the restoration 
 of its ancient magistracy, composed of two bur- 
 gomasters, a senate, and a council, supported by 
 a military force consisting of 300 men, besides 
 a militia corps of loyal citizens, this little state 
 boasts of a constitution established on the foun- 
 dation of old imperial times. This foundation 
 is the celebrated Golden Bull, the edict, or im- 
 perial constitution made by the Emperor Charles 
 IV., the reputed Magna Charta, or the funda- 
 mental law of -the German empire. Before the 
 
34(3 FRANKFORT. GOLDEN BULL. 
 
 publication of the Golden Bull, the form and 
 ceremony of the election of an emperor were un- 
 determined, and the number of the electors was 
 not fixed. This imperial edict regulated tlie 
 functions, rights, privileges, and pre-eminences of 
 the electors, (which were limited to seven, three 
 ecclesiastical, and four secular,) and, as already 
 noticed, fixed the election of the emperor at 
 Frankfort, and the ceremony of coronation 
 at Aix-la-Chapelle. It seems to hav'e derived 
 the name of Golden Bull merely from the cir- 
 cumstance of a golden seal, in the form of a pope's 
 bull, and which is attached to the instrument by 
 cords of red and yellow silk ; upon one side of 
 the seal is the emperor represented sitting on 
 his throne, and on the reverse the ca})itol of 
 Rome. The whole of this famous document is 
 written in Latin, on vellum, and was witii much 
 form and ceremony approved of by all the princes 
 of the empire. 
 
 The original is still preserved, and now a bit 
 of useless old parchment ; it lies in the Roemer 
 or Town House (a large ugly old white build- 
 ing in the Roemer Square, a principal place of 
 of the city) open to the inspection of the curi- 
 ous who do not object to pay for peeping. 
 
 In Frankfort all religions ai'e tolerated, but 
 under certain restrictions. These restrictions 
 
FRANKFORT. JEWS. 347 
 
 towards the Jews, however, appear to savour of 
 severity. The long, dark, and narrow street, 
 called " la rue des Juifs," in which these poor 
 despised children of Israel are cooped up every 
 night like so many black cattle, as Dr. Moore 
 has observed in his visit to this city, still evi- 
 dences unkind treatment. 
 
 The houses are very lofty, and the groimd 
 floor of each is so crammed with ragged mer- 
 chandize of all descriptions, that scarcely a ray 
 of light can penetrate, or a breath of fresh air 
 purify these wretched tenements ; and the upper 
 apartments, to the very top story, are crowded 
 with Hebrew families. The whole is a loath- 
 some and melancholy scene of filth and dark- 
 ness. It is said that the Jews have made fre- 
 quent offers of large siuns of money to the 
 magistracy of Frankfort for leave to purchase 
 better accommodation, but that all their proposals 
 have been rejected. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening I was seated in 
 the diligence for Darmstadt, about six leagues 
 distant. Passing the Main over a handsome 
 stone bridge, we entered the faubourg of Sach- 
 senhausen. From hence the view extends over 
 a flat and wooded country. Presently we passed 
 through a magnificent wood of oak and beech. 
 
318 DARMSTADT. — THE BERG-STRASSE. 
 
 and as it was now dark, we were escorted by a 
 military guard on horseback. Our road lay 
 through two or three other noble forests, which 
 involved us in pitchy darkness, but unfortunately 
 for the lovers of romance we reached Darmstadt 
 about ten o'clock at night in perfect safety, 
 and without a single adventure. 
 
 My intention was to have spent at least a day 
 or two in this town, but finding upon enquiry 
 that I might be detained here longer than con- 
 venient if I w^aited for the next public convey- 
 ance, I therefore determined to make the most 
 of the light of the moon during the hour which 
 our diligence allowed us here, and to proceed 
 by the same conveyance to Heidelberg. 
 
 The town of Darmstadt stands in an exten- 
 sive sandy plain, through which, afar off, the 
 Rhine is seen pursuing its w inding course. 
 
 Towards the north, at the distance of a few 
 leagues, the view is relieved by the wooded 
 Bergstrasse mountains, which now, under the 
 mild splendour of a bright moon, formed a noble 
 barrier in the scene. Darmstadt presents an 
 appearance entirely new. The streets are wide 
 and regular, and the houses, which are built 
 with a handsome gray stone, are grand and lofty. 
 
DARMSTADT. 349 
 
 though plain and uniform in their style of archi- 
 tecture. The main street is of great length 
 and width, and, forming the continuation of an 
 avenue through a fine wood of trees, presents a 
 handsome and striking effect. A spacious exer- 
 cise place, and the neat and comfortable build- 
 ings allotted toiheCorps-de-Gai^de seem to declare 
 the well-known fondness of the reio;nin£]c Duke 
 to his little military concerns. In short, every 
 thing here announces the miniature capital of a 
 petty German sovereign. 
 
 Shortly after eleven o'clock, I was again 
 seated in the diligence, and on the road to 
 Heidelberg. 
 
 The night was beautifully fine, and I had the 
 advantage of having only one fellow-traveller, 
 and that a very agreeable one, from whom I 
 picked up some interesting information respect- 
 ing the part of the country through which we 
 were journeying. 
 
 The country, as we proceeded, continues flat, 
 but becomes more fertile, and still more wooded. 
 We crossed several forests of considerable ex- 
 tent, and these occur so frequently, that our mi- 
 litary escort attended us through the night. 
 
350 AUERBACH. THE MELTBOCUS. BENSHEIM. 
 
 When out of tlie influence of these dark 
 covers, the view over the surrounding country 
 was impressively fine. The thick woods of oak 
 and forests of fir, covering the liigli mountains 
 of the Bergstrasse, towards which we kept ap- 
 proaching, now flung around a deep and solemn 
 gloom, and thus heightening the effect of the 
 bright full moon over the fine expanse of country 
 to where the broad Rhine pursues its winding 
 course, rendered the whole a grand and im- 
 posing scene. The Bergstrasse is a high moun- 
 tain road stretching along the lofty Avooded 
 heights which extend in a continuous line be- 
 tween Darmstadt and Heidelberg, and is sup- 
 posed to be the strata-montana of the ancients. 
 
 At Auerbach, a considerable and beautifully 
 situated village, about three leagues from 
 Darmstadt, is a fine villa belonging to the Grand 
 Duke. In the neighbourhood of this village 
 rises the lofty Melibocus, the highest of the 
 Bergstrasse, and of all the other mountains of 
 this part of Germany. It is much celebrated 
 for the extent and magnificence of the view from 
 its summit. 
 
 About half a league from Auerbach is the 
 little town of Bensheim, situated at the foot of 
 
HIPPENHEIM. THE ODENWALD. WEINHEIM. 351 
 
 a mountain covered with vines, and surrounded 
 by ruined fortifications. 
 
 At a short distance further is Hippenheim, 
 a small town situated amongst the mountains 
 of the Bergstrasse. Here as we approached 
 the wild scenery of the Odenwald, the aspect 
 of the country becomes more bold, mountainous, 
 and gloomy. 
 
 The Odenwald, or forest of Odin, is a district 
 stretching over a vast extent of country a few 
 leagues from Darmstadt to the Neckar, and 
 across the Bergstrasse to the Main. To the 
 lovers of wild and romantic scenery this is a 
 range of country which must afford the highest 
 interest. 
 
 Weinheim is the next town of any importance.' 
 This is a small town bordering on the Odenwald, 
 and is e^ddently of ancient origin. Its situation 
 is extremely beautiful, and now, viewed through 
 the mild light of morning dawn, was highly in- 
 teresting. 
 
 The night had now passed away, — to mc 
 without repose, and without the want of it. 
 Tlie succession of varied and interesting scenery 
 had afforded me, through the lagging lioui^ of 
 
352 THE ODENWALD. 
 
 the quiet time, a constant supply of objects to 
 delight the fancy, and to occupy the wandering 
 thoughts. As to my companion, he probably 
 would have enjoyed a better night's rest had he 
 been alone. He seemed only to sleep, or rather 
 to doze by snatches, for he appeared as desirous 
 to gratify my curiosity for information about 
 his country, as I was to be informed ; and when- 
 ever we approached any remarkable scenery, or 
 any mountain, ruined castle, or spot of peculiar 
 interest, he w-ould start up as if by instinct, 
 and without any other preface than — '* Voila, 
 Monsiew^ ! voyez vous /" — begin his expla- 
 nation. 
 
 How easily can the stranger secure to himself 
 these little courtesies when travelling through 
 a foreign land ! — and how much do they con- 
 tribute to his information and amusement ! 
 
 If the objects of the traveller be to acquaint 
 himself with the country and the people, what 
 itineraries or books can convey all the minute 
 details which are opened to the traveller iu 
 conversation wdth respectable natives ! As re- 
 gards the geography and descri})tion of the 
 country this is a source from whence correct 
 information may be expected, and which, if 
 sought for, will generally be found. 
 
MANHEIM. — NEUENHEIM. 3 53 
 
 For my own part I can say, that in travelling 
 abroad, most of the little stock of information 
 which I have picked up about the people, and 
 the different countries through which I have 
 passed, has been collected from the inhabitants 
 themselves ; and I recollect very few instances 
 where the wisli to convey information has not 
 been manifested in the same degree with the 
 desire to be informed. 
 
 The traveller through Germany will find this 
 feeling particularly prevalent ; and, as far as my 
 little experience goes, I think I may say, he will 
 generally find the inhabitants as able as willing 
 to afford any information about their country 
 which the passing stranger can reasonably re- 
 quire. 
 
 We were now about four leagues from Hei- 
 delberg, and the termination of oar journey. 
 Soon the towers of the city of Manheim, situated 
 at the confluence of the Neckar and the Rhine, 
 rose before our view. 
 
 About a quarter of a league from Heidelberg 
 and near the village of Neuenheim, on the right 
 hand side of the road, my companion pointed 
 out to me a little old fashioned house, where 
 
 VOL. I. A A 
 
35'h APPROACH TO HEIDELBERG. 
 
 Martin Luther is said to liavc lodged the night 
 before the meeting ot'tlie famous Diet at Worms, 
 when on his way to join that gi'ave assembly. 
 Out of respect to which circumstance this build- 
 ing is said to be preserved in its oiiginal style and 
 character. It has tlie appearance of having been 
 formerly appropriated to a religious purpose, 
 but seems now to be inhabited by some humble 
 tenant. 
 
 Crossing the Neckar over a stone bridge, 
 Heidelberg, beautifully situated on the river's 
 bank at the opening of the Neckar Valley, lies 
 before the view ; and rising majestically above 
 the town are seen the ruins of the once finest 
 castle throughout Germany, 
 
 Here at the bridge I took a friendly leave of 
 my companion, who now quitted the diligence 
 with a courteous and pressing invitation, that if 
 my time permitted I would pay him a visit on 
 the banks of the Neckar, where the only induce- 
 ments he had to offer would be some of his best 
 Berg-strasse wine, a beautiful country, and 
 a hearty welcome. Our adieus being said, a 
 few minutes afterwards I was safely lodged 
 with all my baggage in the principal inn at 
 Heidelberg. 
 
HEIDELBERG. — THE CASTLE. 355 
 
 Wednesday/, October 10. My first order was 
 for breakfast, but as my visit here was intended 
 to be short, this meal was dispatched wnthout 
 much loss of time, and I then sallied forth to 
 view the town. 
 
 The first object of my curiosity, as may be sup- 
 posed, was the castle. After a long and precipit- 
 ous ascent, and after passing through the rem- 
 nant of the covert- way, over the old draw-bridge 
 and across the outer court yard, I found myself 
 upon the broadpaved and now grass-grown terrace. 
 
 From hence, at a fearfijl height, is seen the 
 beautiful river Neckar, gliding on its swift 
 though smoothly flowing course between a range 
 of noble mountains, and beneath, looking like a 
 small cluster of buildings, is the town of Heidel- 
 berg. Turning to survey the castle, now a 
 scene of ruin, the mind is wrapped in wonder. 
 
 As a work of human hands, raised on a height 
 which art alone has made accessible, even the 
 remaining outline of this stupendous fabrick must 
 strike every beholder with feelings of amaze- 
 ment ; and contemplated as the shattered frag- 
 ment of a once lordly castle, it is well calcu- 
 lated to fill the mind with melancholy reflections 
 
 A 2 
 
356 HEIDELBERG. THE CASTLE. 
 
 upon the inconstancy of fortune, and the muta- 
 bility of all human enterprizes. 
 
 The history of this town and its castle has 
 been eventful and calamitous. 
 
 Heidelberg, the capital of the Lower Palati- 
 nate, was once the place of residence of the Elec- 
 tors, and the most celebrated seat of learning in 
 all Germany. In the year 1662 the town was 
 ransacked and demolished by the Spaniards. 
 During the campaign of the Rhine in I675 the 
 town and castle were again besieged, and with 
 the surrounding country again subjected to 
 all the horrors of war. The great Tiu'enne 
 was on this occasion the unfeeling agent of 
 Louis XIV. But however dreadful were the 
 flames lighted by Turenne, those were only like so 
 many torches, compared witli the conflagration 
 which followed by the orders of the same un- 
 feeling monarch. 
 
 This happeued in the campaign of l()9o. 
 The French army was commanded by De Lorges, 
 a nephew of Turenne, and the whole of this fine 
 country was rendered a scene of desolation. 
 The greater part of the town of Heidelberg was 
 again destroyed, and its noble castle, save what 
 
HEIDELBERG. THE CASTLE. 357 
 
 time and the fury of the elements have since ac- 
 complislied, reduced to its present state of ruin. 
 
 The particulars of the frightful scene of havoc 
 of this cam])aign, have been handed down from 
 father to son, and are still spoken of with horror, 
 as the most sanguinary and inhuman vengeance 
 ever executed upon a conquered country, and 
 for which, amongst the peasantry even to this 
 day, the French nation appears to be held in exe- 
 cration and disgusts 
 
 But to proceed : after surveying the remnant 
 of the stately front, which bears evident traces 
 of more modern date than the other parts of 
 the building, I entered the grand quadrangle. 
 
 Here is a scene of still more impressive sad- 
 ness. The beholder finds himself surrounded 
 with huge crumbling masses of masonry, and 
 fallen statues, half hidden in grass and net- 
 tles. 
 
 Here the eye wanders over long broken lines 
 of varied architecture, exhibiting the lightness, 
 elegance, and the numerous grotesque ornaments 
 of a gothic palace, with the stately massiveness of 
 an ancient mountain fortress. Here the dilapi- 
 dated windows, the shattered and sinking portals, 
 
 A A 3 
 
358 HEIDELBERG. THE CASTLE. 
 
 the tenantless niches, the fallen towers, and the 
 massy buttresses rent asunder, all tell the latter 
 history of this once noble pile, and fill the mind 
 with sadness ; not ^vith that pleasing melancholy 
 caused on beholding the progress of the slow 
 mouldering hand of time, but sadness mingled 
 with feelings of surprize and awe; for every ob- 
 ject which here meets the eye seems to speak of 
 some fearful convulsion of the earth, or direful 
 disaster, though on a nearer examination, the 
 innumerable marks of cannon balls declare this 
 demolition to be the work of man. Tliere is, 
 however, in contemplating the scene of any great 
 catastrophe or extraordinary event, a feeling of 
 deep and impressive interest, with which most 
 persons are more or less acquainted ; the mind 
 pictures to itself the difierent actors in the part, 
 and entering into all their hopes and fears, enjoys 
 some of the excitation of reality, without any of 
 its pains or apprehensions. 
 
 Passing through the grass-grown area into the 
 inner quadrangle, there the same dreary sight of 
 devastation meets the eye ; all is forlorn and de- 
 solate; and the stillness which reigns throughout 
 this scene of wreck and ruin inspires a solemnity 
 of feeling approaching even to the sentiment of 
 fear. 
 
HEIDELBERG. THE CASTLE. 359 
 
 This castle is situated on an abrupt ledge or 
 foreground of tlie high mountain which over- 
 hangs the town and the river Neckar. Around 
 are thick shrubberies and serpentine walks, 
 winding amongst ornamented declivities and 
 flower gardens. At the back rises the height 
 called Geisberg, covered with a thick forest of 
 beech and chesnut trees, intermixed with firs 
 which join the ornamental shrubberies and plant- 
 ations around the ruined castle, and crown this 
 mountain, even to its lofity summit, with one 
 variegated mass of wild luxuriance. 
 
 From these shady syh^an walks the scene of 
 ruin is viewed to the best ad\antage. One of 
 these sequestered paths winds round a massy 
 tower, which presents a very remarkable sight. 
 This tower, surrounded with a fosse now half 
 filled up and overgrown with thickets, was for- 
 merly the magazine for gunpowder, which, 
 being struck by lightning, exploded. From the 
 solidity and massive thickness of this wall the 
 explosion must have been tremendous, and the 
 effect was no less extraordinary. One side 
 of the tower was rent asunder, and fell edge- 
 ways in one solid mass into the fosse beneath, 
 where it has ever since remained nearly in an 
 upright posture, and looking as if it would ex. 
 "-^iir fit into the place from whence it has slipt out. 
 
 A A 4 
 
360 HEIDELBERG. THE NECKAR. 
 
 From these walks and wooded heights the 
 prospect is magnificent and varied. In one di- 
 rection the beautiful valley of the Neckar is 
 ti'aced afar off in its winding course amidst 
 the lofty mountains of the Bergstrasse, and in 
 the opposite direction, towards the open country 
 of the Rhine, the eye roams over a vast and fer- 
 tile plain, to where the heiglits of the far distant 
 Vosges and Mount Tonnerre bound and relieve 
 the view. 
 
 The greater part of the day had now been pas- 
 sed amidst these ruins, in wandering through 
 the sliady and sequestered walks, and in climb- 
 ing the steep and wooded heights around. An 
 aged gardener was the only human being whom 
 I had yet met in these high solitudes, and al- 
 though no want of care was visible in the long 
 alleys and little ornamented parterres, yet all 
 was still and forsaken as the desert. 
 
 Returning to tlie ruined pile on my way back, 
 I stopt in the great quadrangle, to take a last view 
 of this scene of devastation; and whilst busily 
 occupied in observing a long series of Electors* 
 heads carved out of the red stone front, I was 
 startled by a little barking dog close by me. 
 In the midst of my wonder where this noisy 
 animal could come from, I was still more sur- 
 
HEIDELBERG CASTLE, A CHARACTER. 361 
 
 prized by seeing a man's head pop out of the 
 little top window of an adjoining tower. 
 
 An order in a severe and commanding tone of 
 voice was issued to the dog to cease its noise, but 
 although the cur did not implicitly obey, yet this 
 seemed like an intended courtesy in its master, 
 and taking it for an invitation, I sought my way 
 up an old dark and winding staircase. Having 
 reached the top, I discovered a little door, and 
 presuming this to be the entrance into the apart- 
 ment of the recluse, I made bold to give a gentle 
 tap. The door was instantly opened, not by a 
 venerable white headed anchorite, but by rather 
 an elderly, though sprightly looking little man, 
 habited in a gray morning gown and cap. One 
 glimpse around this little apartment was suffi- 
 cient to satisfy me, that the inhabitant w^as no so- 
 litaire, who had retired hither to avoid the noise 
 and bustle of a wicked world, but one of that 
 sect called antiquaries, who, for the more con- 
 venient gratification of a propensity for grubbing 
 amongst old ruins, had fitted up this little room, 
 in which he was content to run the risk of being 
 buried alive. 
 
 To describe the infinite variety of nick-nacks, 
 curiosities, and antique remnants crowded into 
 this little space, would lead me too far in detail. 
 
36^ HEIDELBERG CASTLE. — A CHARACTER. 
 
 It is an antiquary's work-shop and museum, and 
 may be pretty correctly filled up by the imagi- 
 nation. 
 
 But the antiquary is also an artist, and he was 
 now employed in sketching from his window a 
 large and mJnute drawing of the whole of one 
 side of the quadrangle. This drawing, which 
 was nearly completed, exhibited much skill in 
 the art ; and was performed with such minute 
 accuracy, that here I recognised e\^en the very 
 countenances of my former acquaintances the 
 Electors. As I did not fail to express my com- 
 mendations on the artist's skill, he next brought 
 forward several port-folios filled with drawings 
 and engravings, exhibiting nearly every portion 
 of these ruins, in almost every point of ^'iew. 
 These drawings, and his researches amongst the 
 ruins, had been his sole occupation, as he him- 
 self informed me, for the last thirteen years, and 
 he calculated that it would take him at least twelve 
 years more to finish the great work he had un- 
 dertaken ; which is, a series of drawings of these 
 ruins, exhibiting them with minute accuracy in 
 various points of view, as also all the numerous 
 antiquities which have here been discovered. 
 
 I was much amused with this singular instance 
 before me of the variety in the human character. 
 
HEIDELBERG CASTLE. A CHARACTER. 363 
 
 Here was a man, not tired of the world, nor too 
 old to be sensible of its enjoyments, who, in the 
 pursuit of a favorite object, had voluntarily shut 
 himself up, away from all mankind, amongst a 
 heap of ruins. Yet after thirteen years passed 
 in this dreary solitude, his natural flow of spirits 
 seemed not to have forsaken him ; and that his 
 zeal had not abated, is pretty well evinced by 
 his placid contemplation of such an age as twelve 
 more tedious years of solitary confinement. Oc- 
 casional visitors, he said, varied the monotony 
 of his life, and his occupations never permitted 
 him to be idle. He was quite happy, and I be- 
 leived him when he said so, for it was accom- 
 panied with these words, or something like tliem : 
 " Jusqii'ci ce que faiirai Jini ce grand ouvrage^ 
 mon dme sera tout occupee;" — and certainly with- 
 in the circuit of these ruins all his earthly wishes 
 at present seemed confined. 
 
 After laying out a little money in a selection of 
 engravings of the castle from his portfolio, (an 
 exchange which seemed not unacceptable), I took 
 my leave of this strange character, wishing him 
 health and strength for the accomplishment of his 
 noble undertaking, and many years afterwards for 
 the enjoyment of the honor and profit which must 
 follow. But courtesy would not permit him to 
 part with me here, and with frequent precau- 
 
364> THE HEIDELBERG TUN. 
 
 tionary ejaculations lie politely attended me down 
 his dark and narrow staircase. During my slow 
 and cautious descent, he asked me if I had visited 
 the celehrated Tun, and as I answered in the 
 negative, he offered to go and fetch the person 
 who could sliew it to me. I accepted the offer, 
 and after waiting a short time, he returned witli a 
 gruff-looking fellow, to whose care he now consign- 
 ed me, and wishing me adieu, re-mounted to his 
 workshop. My guardian, who was certainly not 
 prepossessing in his appearance, now led the way 
 in silence towards a large wooden door hard by, 
 and which seemed like the entrance into a vault; 
 here we stopt — a great key was then displayed, 
 and presently the door yielded to the push. No 
 sooner were we in, than the huge door again 
 grated on its hinges, but, to my surprise, the key 
 was again applied, and the massy bolt was turn- 
 ed. I was just about to forbid this unnecessary 
 precaution, but seeing it was too late, I thought 
 it more prudent to hold my tongue. My guide 
 was also silent, and seemed as little inclined for 
 conversation as I now felt. Presently the sight 
 of this stupendous vessel drew from me ex- 
 pressions of surprise, and curiosity induced me 
 to ask some questions. But I barely got answers, 
 and as my eye every now and then fell upon the 
 ill-favoured countenance of my companion, 
 which the gloomy light did not improve, my 
 
THE HEIDELBERG TUN. 365 
 
 curiosity became quickly satisfied, and I felt 
 more anxiety to get out of this dark apartment 
 than I had ever felt to get into it. As soon, 
 therefore, as I could, with due regard to appear- 
 ances, I politely signified my wish to emerge 
 into the open air. With silence suited to the 
 solemnity of the place, we advanced towards the 
 door ; the heavy bolt rolled back, and the door 
 once more creaked upon its hinges, but it was 
 yet only what is called a-jar, and my jailor stood 
 before the opening, as if demanding a parting 
 fee for the liberty of egress. I understood his 
 meaning, and feeling myself still in his power, I 
 showed him that I took the hint, by taking out 
 my purse; the door opened a little wider, and the 
 fellow inclined a little backward ; I sprung sud- 
 denly foi'ward, and, thus gaining the right side 
 of the door, I dropt into the extended hand, a 
 demi-franc ! Not a word was spoken, but as I 
 walked away I caught another glimpse of the 
 stern face now directed towards the still open 
 hand. It was certainly the face of one in doubt 
 as well as in displeasure, and I guess the doubt 
 was, whether to accept the gift, or fling it at the 
 giver. But I walked along my way, and was 
 left to suppose that the affront was pocketed. 
 
 As to this stupendous piece of cellar furniture 
 I must leave its dimensions and capacity to the 
 
366 THE HEIDELBERG TUN. 
 
 information of" a more accurate observer, for of 
 either I am utterly unable to inform the reader; 
 but having seen one of Mr. Meux's largest vats, 
 I should imagine that its dimensions might ex- 
 ceed those of the Heidelberg tun, in tiie propor- 
 tion of a seventy-four gun ship to a frigate. In 
 answer to my question whether this were the 
 original and celebrated tun, a gruff affirmative 
 was the reply. The evident appearance of mo- 
 dein workmanship sufficiently disproves this, but 
 it is well known that the original has long since 
 been destroyed. I believe the only piece of in- 
 formation which I collected from my surly at- 
 tendant concerning this huge vessel was, that it 
 was then filled with hock. By the side of the 
 great tun is a small one which excited my atten- 
 tion by the remarkable neatness of its workman- 
 ship, the staves being all fitted and kept together 
 without a single hoop. 
 
 The day was far gone when I reached the 
 town, in which there is little to interest the 
 stranger ; and after wandering through some of 
 its gloomy and half-deserted streets, I returned 
 to the inn. A diligence was just setting off to 
 Karlsruhe ; my luggage was all ready to be 
 tossed in, I was quite ready to follow, and in a 
 few minutes I was again en ?'oute. 
 
BRUSCHAL. BADEN-DURLACH. 367 
 
 We took the road through Bruschal and Dur- 
 lach, which, for a great part of the way, is skirt- 
 ed by a continuation of the range of high moun- 
 tains from Heidelberg. The evening was suffi- 
 ciently clear to show that the country towards 
 the Rhine presents a level and uniformly rich 
 ap])earance. 
 
 Bruschal is an ancient town, and was formerly 
 of more importance than at present, this being 
 once the place of residence of the prince bishops 
 of Spire. About four leagues further is Durlach, 
 the capital of the old margraviate of Baden- 
 Durlach. But we did not stop here, and in 
 the appearance of this town there seemed little 
 to interest the stranger. 
 
 The road now makes an abrupt turn towards 
 the Rhine, and is carried in a perfectly straight 
 line for the distance of about a league between 
 a noble avenue of lofty poplars. At the extre- 
 mity of this avenue is situated the new and 
 beautiful little capital of Karlsruhe. The night 
 was brilliantly clear, and the eiiect as we entered 
 the town through this long avenue of lofty trees 
 was highly curious and pleasing. 
 
 At a little after ten o'clock I found myself 
 very comfortably lodged in a handsome and com- 
 modious inn. 
 
368 KARLSRUHE. 
 
 Thursday, October 11. Tlie whole day spent 
 in walkino' about Karlsruhe and its environs. 
 
 This town, which is now the capital of the 
 Grand Duchy of Baden, is beautifully situated 
 about a league from the llliine, and is built 
 partly in the forest of Hartwald. It is a town 
 which has sprung up entirely within the last 
 century, and has now extended to a very respect- 
 able size. All the buildings are constructed with 
 a handsome gray stone, which presents great 
 neatness and uniformity of appearance. But 
 the form of the town itself is very remarkable. 
 One broad street of about half a league in length 
 intersects it in a straight line. At a short dis- 
 tance behind this street is a large open area, in 
 the front of which stands the grand duke's pa- 
 lace, in the shape of a crescent, and on each side, 
 the various buildings attached to the palace. 
 These communicate with other buildings, be- 
 longing to the corps-de-ga]"de, so as to form al- 
 most a circle of buildings round the open area, 
 which is a large space laid down in grass, and 
 used as a parade for military exercise. From 
 this spot all the streets in the town diverge like 
 so many radii of a circle, exce})ting the main 
 street already mentioned, which is tiius crossed 
 at different angles, and so as that from all these 
 diverging streets the palace terminates the view. 
 Or to convey a more accurate idea of the ground 
 
KARLSRUHE. FOREST OF HARTWALD. 3C9 
 
 plot by a simple comparison, it exactly resembles 
 the shape of an extended fan, the streets all 
 diverging like the sticks of a fan from one 
 point. 
 
 Behind the palace a large space is enclosed 
 from the forest, and laid out in walks, but most 
 of tlie noble trees are permitted to stand. 
 
 Being a stranger I was allowed to look through 
 the principal apartments of the palace. The 
 state rooms are handsome, and, for a German 
 palace, the whole appears tolerably comfortable. 
 But the most interesting part of this survey to 
 me was from the look-out on the top of the 
 tower. The prospect from hence over the 
 surrounding country is very extensive and re- 
 markable. 
 
 The whole forest of Hartwald lies before the 
 view, and presents a curious appearance of con- 
 formity with the figure of the town, for all the 
 streets have corresponding radii through the 
 forest. These are alleys cut through the whole 
 breadth of the forest, and carried in straight lines 
 from three to six and seven leagues in length. 
 Round the whole circuit of the forest I counted 
 twenty-four of these alleys, which, as my at- 
 tendant informed me, added to the eight radii 
 
 VOL. I. B B 
 
370 KARLSRUHE. THE GRAND DUKE. 
 
 formed by tlie streets, were systematically intended 
 to represent the number of leagues which de- 
 scribe the circumference of this forest. Here 
 wild boars, deer, and various other game abound, 
 and are preserved for the amusement of the 
 Grand Duke, who is devoted to the sport. From 
 what I heard, he lives in this palace with very 
 little state, that he is less inclined to military 
 amusements than his neighbours, and that his 
 principal relaxations from the duties of his little 
 state are the chase and the opera. I met him 
 walking in the streets with only one attendant 
 behind him to carry his military cloak. He 
 stopt to speak to several persons as he passed 
 along, and in return to the military salutes from 
 his officers, I observed that he always took off 
 his hat, and that to the people, even to the low- 
 est, in return for their obeisances, he never failed 
 to touch his hat. It was more like an English 
 landlord amongst his tenantry, than an independ- 
 ant sovereign in his own capital. 
 
 Quitting the palace I visited the Botanic 
 Garden, which is spacious, w^ell filled, and aj)- 
 parently well arranged j also an extensive range 
 of green-houses, containing a rare and beautiful 
 collection of j)lants. The Gallery of Pictures 
 belonging to the Duke was the next object of 
 my attention, but with the exception of a 
 
KARLSRUHE. THE OPERA. 371 
 
 few good Flemish paintings, there is notliing here 
 remarkable. 
 
 After an early dinner I spent the remainder 
 of the afternoon in strolling about the Forest, 
 which certainly presents the finest specimen of 
 forest scenery that I have ever seen. So de- 
 lightful was its novelty and grandeur to me, 
 that time slipt away unheeded, until the shades 
 of evening warned me to return, when I made 
 the best way back into the town to prepare for 
 the opera. 
 
 The building appropriated to this purpose 
 adjoins the palace, and presents rather a shabby 
 exterior, but the interior is spacious and well 
 formed. It is, however, like most of the conti- 
 nental theatres, dark and dirty. Besides a 
 miserable lamp hanging from the centre of the 
 ceiling, the body of the house was lighted by 
 fourteen candles, of which number I counted 
 eight in the three boxes belonging to the Duke 
 and his principal nobility. But gloomy as is the 
 audience part of the house, there is no want of 
 light upon the stage, and this is generally the 
 case in most of the theatres of the Continent. 
 The instrumental part of this establishment is on 
 a grand scale, the opera being here, as in most 
 B B 2 
 
372 KARLSRUHE. LUTHERAN CHURCH. 
 
 of the little German States, so immediately 
 under the patronage and direction of the reign- 
 ing Duke, that it may be considered as his own 
 private property. He however tlu'ows it open to 
 all his subjects, and upon terms so moderate, 
 that the opera expences must form a ])retty 
 considerable item in the annual account of his 
 Civil List. 
 
 The opera establishment of the Duke of 
 Darmstadt is said to be upon a still larger scale, 
 and to be probably unrivalled by any court of 
 Germany. 
 
 Friday October 12. After an early breakfast 
 I visited the new Lutheran church just com- 
 pleted. This is a structure here much admired, 
 and is the w^ork of an arcliitect, a native of this 
 town, said to be rising into high repute, but 
 whose name I have forgotten. The entrance, 
 which is under a large portico supported by 
 lofty Corinthian pillars, struck my unscientific 
 eye as stately and elegant. The interior of tlie 
 church affects great simplicity of design, and 
 did not please me. The galleries on each side 
 are supported upon gigantic columns, with gilt 
 capitals ; but there is a harshness and monotony 
 in the outUne which seems to want relief^ and 
 the gilding is, in my eyes, gaudy and unbecoming. 
 
KARLSRUHE. — ETTLINGEN. SjS 
 
 The period of my visit to Karlsruhe had now 
 expired, and returning to the inn I hired a 
 caleche and post horses to carry me to Rastadt. 
 But before I quit this interesting Httle capital 
 there is one fact wliich I must mention as 
 worthy of remark ; — it is, that during my stay 
 here I did not see a single beggar. 
 
 Leaving the town through another long 
 avenue of lofty poplars, corresponding with the 
 opposite entrance, and after passing the limit of 
 the forest, a noble extent of rich country opens 
 before the view to the right, and at a short dis- 
 tance to the left stretches the lofty chain of 
 wooded mountains already noticed. 
 
 About two leagues from Karlsruhe we passed 
 through Ettlingen, a small town on the left, 
 prettily situated at the opening of the valley of 
 the Albe. 
 
 In this part of the country maize is cultivated 
 to a great extent, and the vast tracts of land 
 covered with these large and richly coloured 
 heads of grain, which the peasantry were now 
 busily employed in collecting, formed a pleasing 
 novelty in the scene. A large species of pump- 
 kin, of a deep yellow colour, is also cultivated in 
 
 B B 3 
 
374 RASTADT. 
 
 great quantities here, and were now left scat- 
 tered about the fields to ripen in the sun. 
 
 Rastadt is a curious old fashioned town on 
 the river Murg, with a large rambling old cha- 
 teau, formerly the residence of the Margraves 
 of Baden-Baden. The most remarkable cha- 
 racteristic of this town now, seems to be its 
 forlorn appearance. Grass grows even in the 
 market-place, and all the streets are silent and 
 forsaken. 
 
 On returning to the inn to dinner after my 
 ramble, I enquired of my host in what might 
 consist the principal trade of this ancient town. 
 
 This query called down an enumeration of re- 
 markable buildings and objects of curiosity well 
 deserving the attention of the stranger, with 
 more minute particulars concerning the magnifi- 
 cent chateau. All this contained no answer to 
 my question ; I was obliged to repeat it. But the 
 declining commerce of the town was evidently 
 not a favourite topic with my host. He however 
 informed me that very lately there was a con- 
 siderable manufactory of paper here. This was 
 coming nearer, though not yet quite to the point, 
 for the paper manufactory had stopt some years 
 ago. My next question was whether or not 
 
RASTADT. — THE CHATEAU. 375 
 
 tliere existed any manufactory here at this pre- 
 sent time. — Oh ! certainement out, MonsieuVy** 
 was the reply. This was coming still nearer, 
 and I was encouraged to push my advantage — 
 *' De grace, dites-moi ce que c^est,** — said I — 
 ^^ Eh bien. Monsieur, il y a unefahrique de res- 
 sorts pour les carrosses, et , . . e/ . . .'* — 
 ** Et voila tout!'' said I — " Helas ! Monsieur," 
 said he, shrugging up his shoulders, " Voild 
 tout r — 
 
 The dishes now upon the table put a stop to 
 our further conversation, and after a hasty 
 meal I paid a visit to the old chateau, situated 
 on a gentle eminence just above the town. This, 
 like many other things which excite our curiosity, is 
 worth seeing, merely for the satisfaction of know- 
 ing that it is not worth the trouble of seeking. 
 It is a large red-coloured formal looking edifice 
 in humble imitation of the palace at Versailles. 
 I went through the long galleries, and out of one 
 room into another, until absolutely wearied with 
 monotony, and the sight of old staring figures in 
 tapestry, and frightful daubs of family portraits. 
 Amongst these the renowned hero, the Mar- 
 grave Louis of Baden and his celebrated consort, 
 Sybilla Augusta, who reared this mass of build- 
 ing, as it is said, to the honour of her husband's 
 name, are to be traced through the various periods 
 B B 4 
 
376 RASTADT. THE CHATEAU. 
 
 of youth, maturity, and old age. The whole 
 building, both externally and internally, exhibits 
 a scene of antiquated magnificence sinkmg fast 
 into decay. It is without historical notoriety, 
 without a trace of elegance or comfort in the 
 design, old enough to have become ruinous, but 
 wanting age to give it even the interest of a ruin. 
 On the roof in the centre of the building is 
 a sort of tower, or look-out, surmounted by 
 a gilt figure of Jupiter. This heathen deity does 
 not require particular notice, but the view" from 
 hence over the surrouncUng country is very fine. 
 Karlsruhe and its forest are distinctly visible, as 
 also several other towais and numerous villages ; 
 and following the noble Rhine along its winding 
 course, the lofty steeple of Strasbourg is just 
 discernible. 
 
 But I had overstepped my time, and hastening 
 back to the inn I hired another vehicle, and was 
 presently on the road to Baden. 
 
 The scenery, as we approached the high range 
 of wooded mountains on the left, becomes more 
 and more wild and gloomy ; and after passing 
 through a varied succession of rich meadows, 
 woods, and vallies, we began a winding course 
 amongst the hills, and soon afterwards reached 
 the sequestered town ot Baden. 
 
BADEN. BATHS. 377 
 
 The situation of Baden is most romantic. It 
 stands partly on a high hill, and partly in a deep 
 hollow, through which runs the little river Os. 
 The whole town may be said to be hidden 
 amongst the hills, for the entrance is up a long 
 and steep ascent ; on one side rises a still loftier 
 iieight, on the other a high range of thick wood- 
 land scenery, and close upon the back ground 
 the lofty and fir- clad chain of mountains which 
 borders the Black Forest. 
 
 Proceeding up the town I first visited the 
 Baths. These are comfortably fitted up, and by 
 various contrivances are adapted to the ac- 
 commodation of the invalid. The hot sulphureous 
 vapour which, in many cases, is considered very 
 beneficial, is conducted from the springs by 
 means of pipes and tubes of various shapes for 
 its more convenient application to the part af- 
 fected. The heat of these springs is extremely 
 great. By the person in attendance at the baths 
 I was informed that the natural degree of heat 
 was 54>° of Reaumur, or, according to our more 
 usual mode of reckoning, 153^° of Fahrenheit. 
 Near these baths is a rock, out of a cleft in 
 which rises one of the principal springs. This 
 rock is partly covered with white marble, evi- 
 dently of Roman workmansliip, and the water 
 as it issues forth is received into a large tank, 
 
378 BADEN. ROMAN ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 which being of a considerable depth, and the 
 water of a scalding heat, throwing out a suffo- 
 cating vapour, is very properly always kept co- 
 vered and locked up. 
 
 Just below, and filled from this reservoir, is a 
 large basin or trough, which, probably, in for- 
 mer days might have been used by the poor for 
 the purposes of a bath ; but being rather too 
 much exposed to the public gaze to be so applied 
 at the present day, it seems now to be confined 
 to purposes of a culinary and domestic nature. 
 
 Ill the building over this spring is a sort of 
 open portico, defended by iron-railings, where are 
 deposited various Roman monuments and anti- 
 quities found in and about Baden. But I ob- 
 served nothing of any particular interest in this 
 collection, which consists chiefly of sepulchral 
 stones, mile-stones, honorary tablets, and broken 
 vessels of pottery ware. 
 
 I next visited the chiu'ch, which is ratlier a 
 handsome structure, but it has been so frequently 
 repaired, that the great antiquity of the original 
 fabrick would hardly be supposed from the ex- 
 terior appearance. The interior is neat and ap- 
 propriate, and numerous marble monuments to 
 the memory of the ancient Margraves deposited 
 
BADEN. CHURCH. CASTLE. 379 
 
 here, add much to the venerable effect of the 
 whole. A series of pieces over the altar are 
 pointed out as deserving of notice, but I could 
 not discover their merits. These are said to be 
 painted by Lill, after celebrated originals. 
 
 I now pressed into my service a little boy, to 
 guide me up the steep and hidden path which 
 leads to the castle, an ancient and dilapidated 
 pile, situated on the summit of a lofty eminence 
 commanding the town. 
 
 The setting sun had long since sunk from view 
 behind the western heights, but the parting rays 
 still lingering on the dark fir tops around, for a 
 time successfully disputed with the gathering 
 gloom. Soon after I had reached the castle gate 
 the shades of evening had prevailed. Entering 
 the grass-grown and forsaken court yard, here I 
 discharged my little guide for one more service- 
 able to my present objects, and after looking 
 about for some time in search of a human being, 
 I observed a female coming forward to offer her 
 services in the capacity of guide, which were ac- 
 cordingly accepted. 
 
 The castle itself is in a state of ruin, and con- 
 tains nothing deserving of particular notice, but 
 
380 BADEN. — CASTLE. 
 
 its subterranean excavations are highly curious 
 and interesting. 
 
 My female guide having procured candles, I 
 now submitted myself to her protection, and she 
 trusting herself to mine, we commenced our de- 
 scent by a narrow flight of steps into the regions 
 of darkness, and were soon deep in the bowels 
 of the rock underneath the castle. 
 
 These excavations, which are supposed to be 
 of Roman origin, are said to be yet only in part 
 explored ; but I passed through sufficient to sa- 
 tisfy me of the great extent of this extraordinary 
 and fearful work. After winding through a long 
 and narrow passage cut out of the solid rock, we 
 came to a stone door. The woman took hold of 
 an iron ring, and the door swung easily round 
 upon its hinges, exhibiting one solid block of 
 stone of enormous magnitude, and of the aston- 
 ishing thickness (according to the best measure- 
 ment which I had the means of making) of be- 
 tween 9 £vnd 10 inches. When I saw the woman 
 close the huge door behind us, it was not without 
 a sudden and involuntary start of terror, nor 
 could I be satisfied to proceed further until I had 
 stepped back to try whether or not this stupen- 
 dous block would yield to my own push. It did 
 so without difficulty, and now more at my ease. 
 
SUBTERRANEAN EXCAVATIONS. 381 
 
 I went forward. In om' progress we passed 
 tlu'ongh several similar door-ways opening into 
 chambers all cut out of the solid rock, where no 
 cheering ray of day-light ever penetrated, and 
 where now, from our dimly burning candles, 
 
 " No light, but rather darkness visible, 
 Served only to discover sights of woe." 
 
 For every chamber my guide had some fearful 
 tale to tell, as if purposely to increase the horrors 
 of the place. Although these excavations bear 
 marks of Roman origin, yet it is also evident that 
 there are many additions to the original work, 
 and these additions, in all probability, were made 
 in subsequent and darker ages. According to 
 the history, and all the traditions of this castle, 
 these subterraneous chambers were converted in- 
 to dungeons for the execution of the dark works 
 of one of those secret and self-constituted tri- 
 bunals, which in early times are well known to 
 have existed in various parts of Germany, to the 
 terror of all classes. 
 
 Many of these chambers are surrounded by 
 secret passages and undermined by other still 
 more hideous dungeons ; and in one, called tlie 
 Torture Chamber, are still to be seen a row of 
 iron rings, supposed to have been used for pur- 
 poses of torture. 
 
382 BADEN. — -CASTLE. 
 
 In some of these dark recesses are also to be 
 seen the niches in the walls, in which, as it is 
 said, formerly stood images of saints, so placed 
 that when the unliappy but unsuspecting vic- 
 tim advanced to seek consolation in prayer, 
 he must inevitably fall into the dark pit beneath, 
 at the bottom of which were rows of iron spikes 
 to receive his wretched body. These pits are 
 now covered up, as being too dangerous to be 
 left open ; but, as I was informed, several rem- 
 nants of these infernal machines have been 
 drawn up. 
 
 The whole of this dark scene of horror is cal- 
 culated to make deep impression upon tlie mind, 
 and there is a certain degree of interest arising 
 from this sort of contemplation ; but, for my own 
 part, I must admit that there is also a degree of 
 terror which, in spite of one's self^ will creep into, 
 and thus disturb one's sad reflections. I could 
 not help picturing to myself what would be my 
 situation in these dark mazy passages, if, by de- 
 sign or accident, our two candles should go out. 
 However distant may be the probability of dan- 
 ger, the possibility flashes across the stranger's 
 mind, and the horrors of tlie fate which would 
 then await him are so forcibly presented through 
 the sense of sight, that the very apprehension 
 cannot be entertained without a shudder. 
 
SUBTERRANEAN EXCAVATIONS. 383 
 
 Although higlily interested in this gloomy 
 visit, yet, I must confess, there was something 
 gratifying to me when emerging from these dark 
 recesses, I came within reach of the cool refresh- 
 
 Night had now enveloped all in darkness, and 
 after lingering for some time longer about this 
 gloomy edifice, I turned my steps towards the 
 inn. Whilst walking slowly on my way, the 
 bright moon rose from behind a wooded moun- 
 tain, and throwing its silvery light upon these 
 gray towers and decaying turrets, formed a 
 beautiful and impressive contrast with the deep 
 gloom of the surrounding heights. 
 
 It was the time best suited to such a sight, for 
 whilst the eye gazed upon the dilapidated and for- 
 saken fortress, every thing around conspired to fix 
 the imagination upon its secret chambers andhide- 
 ous dungeons, and a sort of melancholy gloom, 
 w^hich now overspread the scene, seemed to have 
 imparted to my mind a train of moody thouglits. 
 But not wishing to encourage these, I quickened 
 my pace towards the inn. A good supper, with 
 a bottle of Bergstrasse wine proved no bad anti- 
 dote to 
 
 " Black ey'd musing cursed melancholy ;" 
 
384 BADEN. HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 and I was presently in a state of mind to look 
 forward with delight to my intended excursion 
 of to-morrow.. 
 
 I should here inform the reader, that I had 
 come thus far out of my way into this sequestered 
 district, principally for the purpose of making an 
 excursion to a part of the country called the 
 Murgthal, orValley of the Murg, which, although 
 perhaps the most romantic and beautiful spot to 
 be found in this part of Germany, appears to be 
 but seldom visited by strangers. 
 
 After supper I rung the bell for mine host, 
 and as all dealings with innkeepers in any thing 
 out of the usual way ought, generally speaking, 
 throughout the Continent, to be matter of pre- 
 vious bargain, I now concluded an agreement for 
 the hire of a strong vehicle and a pair of stout 
 horses, to be at my disposal from to-morrow morn- 
 ing at four o'clock, at so much per day, as long 
 as I might have occasion for them. 
 
 This arrangement made, I next proceeded to 
 the baths, my host informing me that these were 
 always ready in his house, the water being con- 
 ducted thither, and into most of the principal 
 houses of the town, by means of pipes. It was an 
 agreeable piece of information to me, and I found 
 
EXCURSION TO THE VALLEY OF THE MURG. 385 
 
 all the benefit of this great restorative to the 
 weary traveller. These hot springs are strongly 
 impregnated with sulphur, and with some propor- 
 tion of alum and nitre. But it is now past one 
 o'clock, and so, reader, for three liours — 
 farewell. 
 
 Saturday, October 13. — Before the appointed 
 time I was ready equipped and waiting for my 
 veliicle, which, punctually at the hour of four, 
 drove up. I stepped in, and with a pair of strong 
 animals before us, we rattled off at a brisk pace. 
 Turning down a steep pitch to the right, we 
 passed through the lower part of the town, and 
 there crossing the little river Os, we ascended 
 the opposite side. Here the road winds through 
 a beautiful promenade, shaded with linden and 
 acacia trees, and various ornamental shrubs. 
 But presently we came to a steep hill, where our 
 rapid course was checked by a straight and almost 
 upright ascent. Here the driver descended, and 
 I followed his example, but walking forward I 
 soon left the vehicle far behind. 
 
 The moon, surrounded by her bright attend- 
 ants, was still riding " through the heavens* wide 
 pathless way," and the summits of the dark fu'- 
 clad heights on either side the road were yet 
 tinged with the silvery light. 
 
 VOL. I. c c 
 
386 APPROACH TO THE MURGTHAL. 
 
 The steep ascent and bordering thicket 
 (through which the little river is heard rushing 
 on its impetuous course) limit the short extent of 
 view in front, and the whole foreground seems 
 as if effectually closed in by interminable heights, 
 covered with dark and impenetrable forests. 
 Looking back upon the deep hollow from which 
 w^e were emerging, the gloomy depth of which 
 the eye could now scarcely scan, the view is 
 somewhat more extensive and more varied. Here 
 the church steeple, and the gray towers of the 
 ancient castle, rising above a thick cluster of 
 house tops, first attract the notice ; and the eye 
 then w^andering round the little circle of the 
 town, lofty wooded mountains shut in the scene, 
 and seem to form a barrier of separation from the 
 exterior world. 
 
 As proceeding on my way I came in sight of 
 the termination of this steep ascent, I saw before 
 me issuing from the gloom where the tall fir-trees 
 meet across the road, a group of female peasantry 
 bringing down their various articles of produce 
 for the market. Tlieir grotesque figures, strange 
 jargon, and the native airs with which some of 
 this merry group lightened their burdens and 
 relieved the tedium of the way, were all in pci- 
 fect character with the wild scene around, and 
 threw into the })icture that lively interest which 
 
APPROACH TO THE MURGTHAL. 387 
 
 was wanting to relieve the gloom. As these 
 passed by, a wain, filled with more weighty 
 produce for the market, and drawn by oxen, 
 next appeared, slowly crawling forward to where 
 the steep descent commences. Presently the 
 signal for a halt was given, and, whilst the sober 
 beasts willingly obeyed, the driver locked the 
 wheel. 
 
 Now the signal for advance bemg given, the 
 rude and cumbrous machine was again in motion, 
 and presently the huge and awkward beasts, bear- 
 ing all the weight between their horns, according 
 to the mode of harnessing usually adopted with 
 these animals in this part of the country, came 
 shuffling and shoving by me at a quicker, but 
 apparently less comfortable pace. 
 
 I had now gained the summit of this laborious 
 ascent, but my vehicle was far behind, and out of 
 sight. As there seemed, however, little like- 
 lihood of my getting out of the right track, I 
 proceeded, and as the road continues up and 
 down, I saw nothing more of my equipage for 
 several miles. 
 
 But now 
 
 the morning trembles o'er the sky, 
 
 And unperceived unfolds the spreading day." 
 c c 2 
 
388 APPROACH TO THE MUHGTHAL. 
 
 Emerging from the dark wood of" firs through 
 which this steep ascent is cut, tlie view opens 
 over a country of'hills and valhes, bounded on all 
 sides by mountains rising one above the otiier, till 
 terminating in one lofty and stupendous barrier. 
 Small parties of market people and groups of 
 peasantry now passed in quicker succession along 
 the road towards the town, and the coming day 
 announced the re-commencement of the bustle 
 of mankind. 
 
 Soon bright streaks shooting across the 
 gray horizon in the east foretold the near ap- 
 proach of the great source of light ; and next, 
 rising majestically above the screen of mountains, 
 in all its splendour, the glorious orb itself ap- 
 peared, spreading such floods of light around as 
 seemed to penetrate into the deepest recesses of 
 these dark woods. 
 
 Pursuing a winding road amidst a varied scene 
 of hills and vallies, the country assumes a more 
 cultivated aspect. Here and there, situated in 
 the fertile hollows, are seen little villages and 
 hamlets, and some of the neighbouring steeps 
 are covered with the vine, though generally of a 
 stunted growth. Having reached the descent 
 which leads down into the small town of Gerns- 
 bach, once the little capital of the lords of Eber- 
 
GERNSBACH. 389 
 
 Stein, here I rested for about half an hour, until 
 my vehicle came up. 
 
 The view is now over a chaos of high hills 
 and mountains ; beneath me is the little town, 
 surrounded by vineyards, and behind this is seen 
 the opening of the Murgtlial. But in the midst 
 of my admiration the vehicle drove up. I step- 
 ped in ; the driver locked the wheel, and we 
 rattled down the steep descent to Gernsbach. 
 
 Here I left my carriage, and after taking such 
 a breakfast as I could procure, I set out on foot 
 to proceed up the Murgthal. 
 
 Gernsbach is a small ancient town, remarkable 
 only for the beauty of its situation. 
 
 Passing through the town, and crossing the 
 river over an antiquated stone bridge, the valley 
 of the Murg opens before the view. The little 
 brawling and transparent river here, just above 
 the town, dammed up into a broad deep head of 
 water, turns a clattering saw-mill ; adjoining is 
 the sawyers' timber-yard, and groups of merry 
 children playing uj)on the large prostrate firs 
 stranded along the river's shallow course, threw 
 around a pleasing air of life and bustle, 
 c c 3 
 
390 THE MURGTHAL. 
 
 Pursuing the road along the river's bank for a 
 short distance, a bend in the valley brings before 
 the view the steep majestic fir-clad mountain, on 
 the lofty summit of which, perched like an eagle's 
 nest, is seen the chateau formerly belonging to 
 the ancient and powerful family of the counts of 
 Eberstein. 
 
 At the foot of this mountain is a very small 
 Catholic chapel. Here my attention was attracted 
 by deep and solemn sounds, which issued from 
 this sacred spot. I looked in, through a little 
 grated window by the road side, and saw a mot- 
 ley crowd performing the ceremony of mass 
 before a tinselled figure of the Virgin, placed in a 
 sort of iron cage between two tall rush-lights. 
 I paused, and for a few minutes was a looker-on. 
 It was a sight exhibiting certainly much fervency 
 of devotion, and the chorus of voices which rose 
 in solemn chant to the glory of the Most High 
 and Father of all, even from this humble con- 
 o:res:ation, was a delightful sound, rendered more 
 than usually impressive by tlie deep interest of 
 the scene around. 
 
 I now began to mount the steep ascent towards 
 the castle. This height is only made accessible 
 by zig-zag walks, which rise like steps one above 
 the other ; and the firs, wliich Iiere attain unusual 
 
THE MURGTIIAL. CHATEAU D*EBERSTEIN. SQl 
 
 size and stateliness of growth, are so closely 
 crowded, that the thick foliage, in many places 
 involving me almost in the gloom of night, ren- 
 dered all my care and circumspection necessary. 
 About half an hour was thus occupied in winding 
 through these dark and mazy paths before I 
 reached the garden-gate, and as this was open, 
 I entered. All appeared tenantless and deserted, 
 and I wandered about in search of some human 
 being, until I began to think the place was indeed 
 untenanted. At last, however, I roused an old 
 deaf domestic, or at least I saw an aged man with 
 a watering pot in his hand advancing towards me, 
 for he was so deaf, that whether my halloos had 
 roused him or not I cannot say. But this to me 
 was matter of little consequence, for, as regards 
 conversation, we were quite unintelligible to each 
 other. Without much difficulty, however, I sig- 
 nified my wish to inspect the interior of the cas- 
 tle, and the old man in return made me under- 
 stand that he would fetch the necessary keys. 
 The interim I filled up in taking a more parti- 
 cular survey of the exterior. 
 
 This is a nondescript sort of building, being 
 an ancient castle transformed into a modern 
 sash- windowed chateau, and presenting a strange 
 incongruous mixture of the ancient and mo- 
 dern style of architecture. On the arrival 
 c c 4 
 
392 THE MURGTHAL. — CHATEAU D*EBEH6TEIN. 
 
 of the keys we proceeded to an interior inspec- 
 tion. But here the same inappropriate alter- 
 ations are displayed, neither leaving the inter- 
 resting character of an ancient castle, nor in- 
 troducing the comforts of a modern dwelling- 
 house. The rooms are for the most part small 
 and mean, and the only one of any interest is a 
 large chamber which appears to have escaped 
 the hands of the modern architect. By the 
 appearance of this chamber (which is still hung 
 round with trophies won from the wild inhabit- 
 ants of the forest) it was probably in former 
 times dedicated to the purposes of conviviality 
 after the fatigues and dangers of the chase. 
 From all these rooms, however, the views over 
 the Murgthal are wonderfully fine ; but as the 
 most noble prospect is from a look-out on the 
 highest part of the building, to this spot, wliicli is 
 a little modernized square room, exhibiting on 
 its walls the boar's head, and various quarter- 
 inffs in the arms of the ancient and noble fa- 
 mily of Eberstein, I must beg the reader to 
 follow me. 
 
 It is, I am well aware, at best but an unsa- 
 tisfactory attempt to convey by words a de- 
 scription of the beauties of a scene, and that, 
 generally, the more laboured and minute the 
 detail, the less striking is the etiect produced. 
 
THE MURGTHAL. 393 
 
 Bill: a few hasty words, like a few dashes from the 
 pencil of a ready artist, sometimes furnish a 
 rough outline, which, left to be filled up by the 
 imagination, affords a tolerably correct picture 
 of the whole. Rather, tlierefore, than pass over 
 this noble prospect with the bare mention of 
 it, I will attempt by words to sketch the out- 
 line, and hazard all the chance of failure. 
 
 The beautiful and romantic valley of the 
 Murg, then, extends in an eastward direction 
 between the lofty mountains of the Black 
 Forest. On either side mountains upon moun- 
 tains, mostly covered with thick forests of dark 
 firs, rise one above the other in wild confusion, 
 and limit the prospect to the narrow space across 
 the valley ; but to the west the opening hills, 
 permitting an extended view, shew the sunny 
 slopes now tinged with the varied hues of the 
 deeply-coloured vineyards, and in the midst of 
 these are seen the gothic tower, and gray-slated 
 roofs of the little town of Gernsbach. The 
 busy scene around the sawyer's yard next 
 catches the attention, and looking up the valley 
 the rising smoke marks out the little hamlets 
 half-liidden by intervening woods round which 
 the river gently winds, or in a more direct and 
 rapid course pursues its way, covered here and 
 there with floating trees, the long, straight, 
 
394 THE MURGTHAL. 
 
 bulky growtli of which bespeaks tlieir origin 
 and downfall upon tlie neighbouring heights. — 
 Such are the leading features of this scene, and 
 these, in order to present a beautiful and faith- 
 ful picture to the mind, the fancy of the reader 
 must review and bring together ; for, in the 
 most finished drawing of a female face, the 
 fliirest features, if separated and viewed apart, 
 are often void of interest or beauty, but blended 
 together, the effect may be all that the mind 
 can picture to itself of perfect loveliness. Here 
 the artist with his pencil has the great advan- 
 tage of presenting to the mind at once the com- 
 bined efforts of his art ; but the writer with his 
 pen can present, and that imperfectly, only a 
 single feature at a time, and the effect of the 
 whole depends not entirely upon his skill, but 
 partly upon the fancy or imagination of the 
 reader. 
 
 Having gratified my curiosity about this 
 castle, which has little more to recommend it 
 than its situation, and after complying with the 
 request of this old w arden by entering my name 
 in a book, kept perhaps for the gratification of 
 his curiosity, or for the benefit of future visitors, 
 and not forgetting the perquisite on these oc- 
 casions, I set out upon my descent into the val- 
 
THE MURGTHAL. 395 
 
 ley, whicli, in clue time and witli due caution, 
 was accomplished without accident. 
 
 Higher up the valley tlie scenery continues 
 for some distance, varying amidst the most ro- 
 mantic beauties, until the road, gradually as- 
 scending amongst the mountains, the coiuitry 
 presents a wilder and more dreary aspect, and 
 the Murg changes its character from a brawl- 
 ing stream to a roaring torrent. 
 
 Here the scene is one of wild magnificence, 
 and amongst the dark surrounding heiglits rises 
 pre-eminent the dreary head of Stauffenberg, on 
 the summit of which are still visible the ruins of 
 an ancient castle. 
 
 On my return to Gernsbach, towards the 
 decline of day, I stopped at a little hamlet to 
 recruit my strength, and to pick up some in- 
 formation about this interesting and sequestered 
 spot, for I had hitherto been without a guide. 
 I was lucky enough to direct my enquiries to an 
 old man who could make himself intelligible to 
 me, and who seemed to be well acquainted with 
 the early history, as well as the gcograpliy, of 
 this wild district. From tliis old man, in the 
 way of historical information, I learnt that the 
 ancient territory of the lords of Eberstein in- 
 
396 THE MURGTHAL. STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 eluded a great extent of this wild country, over 
 which they long ruled with sovereign sway, in 
 defiance of all jealous neighbours, and that by a 
 family alliance it at last became annexed to the 
 Margraviate of Baden. 
 
 The modernized chateau, as I also learned, is 
 still the favourite residence, for a few weeks in 
 the summer months, of some of the royal family 
 of Baden. 
 
 I received also a good deal of geographical 
 information from this old man, about the sur- 
 rounding wilds, and amongst other subjects I 
 picked up some scraps of traditionary history 
 concerning the ruins still visible on the dreary 
 head of Stauffenberg. These, according to my 
 informant, are the remains of an ancient castle, 
 formerly belonging to a noble and powerful 
 family, the Counts de Stauflen. 
 
 I fancied that I perceived a sort of su})ersti- 
 tious dread in this allusion to the history of the 
 last proprietor of this castle, the last of his 
 noble race, and my curiosity was so much ex- 
 cited, that I pressed for more minute particulars. 
 But the old man shook his head, for it was a 
 fearful and uncertain tale, of which nothing 
 more was known than what had been handed 
 
THE MURGTIIAL. STAUFFENBERG. 397 
 
 down from family to family through the suc- 
 ceeding generations. My surprize and curiosity, 
 however, were considerably augmented on hear- 
 ing repeated, the principal incidents of that beau- 
 tiful little fairy-tale presented to the public, a few 
 years ago, under the title of Undine. I will con- 
 fess there was something quite bewitching in 
 the very idea that I now stood in the midst of 
 the fairy scene, and with increased interest my 
 eye wandered up and down the brawling stream 
 before me — But it was all in vain, — no fairy 
 figure rose from the bright flowing w^aters, and 
 no grey-headed sprite w^as now visible above the 
 rippling surface. The fairy days are gone, but 
 some interest for those days may yet remain. 
 The old man seemed pleased and flattered by 
 my credulity, and the interest w^hich I appeared 
 to take in the traditionary history of his neigh- 
 bourhood, made him more willing and familiar 
 in his communication. He was not forgotten at 
 our parting, and when the sinking sun re- 
 minded me that I had yet some distance to 
 walk to Gernsbach, I started up so much re- 
 cruited and refreshed as to look forward to the 
 walk with pleasure. 
 
 On reaching the inn there was so little ap- 
 pearance of comfort or accommodation, that I 
 
398 RETURN TO BADEN. 
 
 ordered out the horses, and set off with all haste 
 on my return to Baden. 
 
 As my route was along the same road tliat I 
 had already passed, my imagmation wandered 
 back to the fairy land which I was quitting, and 
 Undine engrossed a fair portion of my thoughts. 
 
 During the ride I occupied myself in recollect- 
 ing and arranging the broken incidents whicli 
 had been related to me respecting this interest- 
 ing tradition, and afterwards, at the first oppor- 
 tunity, I put them together on paper, following 
 most of the principal events as I had received 
 them, saving a liberty similar to tliat taken in 
 the elegant little translation of this tale from the 
 German, by introducing an object for the mar- 
 riage of Undine, wliich the original narrative 
 does not appear to warrant. Saving this, and 
 any thing which may be deserving of the name 
 of embellishments in the recital, the following is 
 the real tradition, as related on the spot where 
 it originated. 
 
 I sliould observe that I have adopted the 
 word " Ondine," because tliis accords with the 
 German pronunciation. 
 
399 
 
 LE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 Dirminger Comte de Stauffen, who in very 
 early times inhabited this castle, was one 
 day returning from the chase, when finding 
 himself exhausted with the fatigues of the day, 
 he loitered behind his party, and descending, 
 led his horse to a small spring rising in the 
 wild sequestered valley of the Murg, and sur- 
 rounded with lofty and shady oaks. 
 
 There he saw a young damsel of bewitching 
 form and beauty, seated by the side of the spring, 
 wlio, as he advanced, rendered him a modest 
 salute, calling him by his name. 
 
 The astonished Comte demanded who she 
 was, and from whence slie came ? " I elwell 
 close by," said she, *'and I liave seen you come 
 oftentimes to this spring with your hunters, by 
 which means I have learnt your name.** 
 
 Stauffen, yet young and disengaged, was much 
 struck with the beauty and spriglitly manner of 
 this lovely maid, and love, unperceived, crept 
 into his heart. 
 
400 THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 The following day, at the same hour, Dir- 
 mhiger hastened to the spring, but the lovely 
 unknown was not tliere — long he waited in 
 anxious hope, but she came not. On the 
 second day he attended, waited, but she came 
 not. The third day found him again upon the 
 spot, waiting, disappointed, and dejected. The 
 fourth day, towards the evening, as he was seated 
 on the verdant turf by the side of this clear 
 spring, leaning against an oak, and lost in 
 thought, he was startled by a sound resembling 
 a human voice, but more soft and sweet than 
 ever yet was heard from human being, and seem- 
 ing to come from beneath the water, singing in 
 sweetest melody the following words : — 
 
 *' Canst thou, mortal! canst thou prove 
 Constant to requited love ? 
 If thy soul can blend with mine, 
 The fates allow 
 Our plighted vow ; — 
 Swear this, — and Ondine is thine." 
 
 He raised himselfj looked about on every side 
 with impatient curiosity, but could discover no 
 one, and tlie sound gradually diminishing, was 
 now no longer audible. He was then about to 
 resume his seat under the oak, in the hope that 
 the voice of the invisible would again be heard, 
 when, turning round, he saw the unknown seated 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 401 
 
 upon the stone which he had just quitted. There 
 she appeared more beautiful and lovely than 
 before, lively and gentle, full of mirth and merri- 
 ment. To every question of the enraptured 
 Comte some arch reply was always ready, nor 
 could he procure a single answer to gratify his 
 eager curiosity. But with all her vivacity and 
 wit was mixed so much engaging loveliness, that 
 a lieart not already occupied could scarcely have 
 withstood unmoved so many charms. The en- 
 raptured Comte, in all the ecstasies of love, 
 could brook no longer the delays of courtship, 
 but flinging himself at her feet, declared him- 
 self lost in the world without her. 
 
 All the sprightliness of the lovely maid in- 
 stantly disappeared, but a pensive smile lighted 
 up her bright and beauteous features ; she spoke 
 not, but waived her arm of fairy form to the still 
 kneeling Comte in token of adieu. With the 
 boldness of advancing love, he seized tlie snowy 
 and extended hand, and in silent rapture pressed 
 it to his lips. The fair unknown now informed 
 the Comte, that the time for her departure had 
 arrived, and naming tlie hour of the following 
 morning that would find her here again, the 
 fairy hand slipt from the lovers grasp, and the 
 beauteous figure darting between the trees, was 
 hidden from further view. 
 
 VOL. r. D D 
 
402 THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG . 
 
 Dirminger, stupified with amazement, gazed 
 for some time in the direction where the lovely 
 and mysterious being had vanished from his 
 sight, but the recollection of her promise recalled 
 his bewildered senses, and he returned still 
 deeper than before in love and wonder. 
 
 Scarcely had morning dawn chased away the 
 stars of night, when the Comte was upon the ap- 
 pointed spot, and just as the rising sun began to 
 gild the mountain lieights, tlie lovely unknown 
 maid 'appeared from a neighbouring copse, 
 with a step so light, and form aerial, that she 
 looked like an inhabitant of some other world, 
 and the wondering lover gazed upon her as a 
 being dropped from the morning star. 
 
 Her flowing hair, in rich and negligent profu- 
 sion, fell as if to mark the contrast with a neck 
 that might have vied in whiteness with the purest 
 mountain snow, as in smoothness with the eider 
 down ; a robe in texture like the gossamer, and in 
 colour of pale emerald green, entwined around 
 her fairy form, half hid a figure of such match- 
 less sl>ape as human eyes before had never seen ; 
 and sandals of platted grass, lined with the softest 
 moss, were twined round feet that seemed 
 unused to touch where mortals tread. 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 403 
 
 With a countenance as full of innocence as 
 loveliness, she fixed her bright blue eyes upon 
 the enamoured Comte, and he, seizing her droop- 
 ing hand once more, hazarded to speak of love. 
 
 She answered not, and the pensive smile again 
 lighted up her lovely features, but this was mo- 
 mentary ; gazing upon him with a look of sor, 
 rowful expression, she beckoned to him to take 
 his seat upon the grassy bank bordering the 
 spring, and seating herself by his side, she thus 
 addressed him : — " Dirminger, you have confided 
 in me the secret of your heart ; I fear I have be- 
 guiled you ; but the time has now arrived when I 
 must inflict upon myself the pain of undeceiving 
 you. Know then, that I am not what I seem, a 
 child of this world. In the waters was I born, 
 and there I dwell. I am of a race of beings not 
 insensible to love, but we give not our love with- 
 out our hand, nor our hand without our love. 
 But hearken, Comte, and attend. By giving my 
 hand to a mortal, I myself become in part a mor- 
 tal, and, like other mortals, I subject myself to 
 the certainty of death, which now can never 
 reach me until the W'Orld shall stop its course, 
 and then all our race will dissipate in air ; but 
 with this certainty of death I gain the blessing of 
 eternal life. And now, Comte, consider well what 
 I am about to say. If I accept your oflered hand I 
 D D 2 
 
404 THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 must receive with it your whole heart, and I 
 must occupy it for the remainder of your days. 
 Your fideUty must be pure as this hmpid stream, 
 and firm as the steel of your girded sword. One 
 single act of infidelity will cause your death, and 
 mine." Slie ceased ; and for some moments 
 longer the Comte continued gazing upon her in 
 silence ; but it was the pause of silent wonder and 
 admiration, for presently, as if waking from a 
 trance and seeing by his side the bright image 
 of his dream, he seized her in his arms, confirmed 
 his former vows with a solemn oath, and de- 
 clared that it was as impossible for him to prove 
 unfaithful as to live without her. 
 
 The nymph, whose sparkling eyes and lovely 
 smile bespoke her fervent joy, now presented 
 to the Comte an emerald ring, through 
 the transparency of which was seen her 
 name Ondine. The enraptured lover again 
 pressed the lovely donor to his breast, talked of 
 the charming situation of liis castle, and of the 
 life theysliould lead of contijuied happiness and 
 love. The following day was fixed for conduct- 
 ing her to his castle, and for witnessing the mar- 
 riage ceremony. But by the time the sun had 
 reached its mid-way course, Ondine signified to 
 the Comte that she must bid him farewell until 
 to-morrow, " for," added she with a sweet smile. 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 405 
 
 but tlirough which the pensive air was again vi- 
 sible, *' I am now about to visit my native ele- 
 ment, perhaps for the last time, and I have there 
 kind relatives whom, perhaps, I never more shall 
 see ; . . . their disobedient daughter deserts them 
 all ; . . . sacrifices every thing for blessed immor- 
 tality and love." At these words she dropped 
 into the spring, and kissing her hands to the 
 gazing Comte in token of adieu, she gradually 
 vanished from his sight beneath the waters. 
 
 The Comte hastened to his castle, and instant 
 and splendid were the preparations for the ensu- 
 ing day. But on the following morning, as he 
 passed through the grand chamber in which the 
 ceremony was to be performed, great was his 
 surprize at the splendour of the sight before him. 
 On a grand table were displayed riches unknown 
 to human eyes, and in the midst of these were 
 three baskets of curious and exquisite workman- 
 ship, one full of gold, the other of silver, and the 
 centre one, the largest of the three, was filled 
 with precious stones ; over the handle of this 
 centre basket was an emerald of extraordinary 
 size and beauty, upon which were engraved 
 words signifying "The dowry with Ondine." 
 
 The altar now was ready, the sacred fire was 
 burning, the bishop with holy reverence attended, 
 
 D D S 
 
406 THE CHATEAU £)E STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 the company in silent expectation were assem- 
 bled, and the happy bridegroom strained 
 his ean;er eves to catch the first view of the 
 coming bride. Presently the folding doors flew 
 open, and surrounded by her maids, arrayed as 
 if in light, the lovely bride appeared. Advan- 
 cing towards the altar she took the offered hand, 
 but expressed a wish, before the ceremony com- 
 menced, to speak with the Comte in private. 
 Seated by his side in an adjoining cabinet, she 
 thus addressed him. *< Dirminger, I am come 
 to put your sincerity to the test ; how dearly I 
 love you I have already shewn, and that your 
 love to me is now pure and earnest I cannot 
 doubt ; — but, oh Dirminger ! is it a love that will 
 be constant? — think yet once more before it be 
 too late of what you are about to do, — think of 
 all that I have told you ; for, if your heart should 
 over cool for me, and warm at the thought of 
 another, oh — Dirminger ! that instant my power 
 is gone, — my race will prevail over me, we both 
 are lost, and you will have a sign of your ap- 
 proaching death j — the sign will be this right foot, 
 which is all that you will ever see of me again, 
 and your name will be extinct." She paused, 
 and the Comte tenderly embrachig her, renewed 
 his vows with all the impetuosity of violent 
 love. 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 107 
 
 The smile of love and confidence ao-ain licrhted 
 up the features of Ondine, and after warning the 
 Comte to guard the emerald ring which she had 
 given him, and which, as long as he wore upon 
 his ringer, would preserve them both from harm, 
 she yielded up her hand to the enraptured 
 lover, who now led her to the altar. They were 
 married. Days and months passed over in hap- 
 piness complete. The lovely Ondine was like a 
 flower in perpetual bloom, ever beautiful and 
 charming, and spreading charms around her. 
 
 Scarcely had the year revolved when the 
 Comte was the happy father of a son. Soon af- 
 terwards a terrible war broke out upon the fron- 
 tiers of France. Dirminger was brave, and de- 
 lighted in deeds of arms. But in his breast love 
 now struggled against glory. 
 
 Ondine woidd not oppose the current of his 
 noble feelings, but hanging over him in bitterest 
 sorrow, she consented to his departure, conjur- 
 ing him with her last words not to forget her, 
 or tlie pledge of their tender love. 
 
 Dirminger, at the head of a chosen troop of 
 vassals, passed the Rhine and joined the standard 
 of a Duke of the Franks. 
 D D 4 
 
408 THF CHATEAU DE STAUFFENiBERG. 
 
 The skill, the intrepidity, and tlie powerful 
 arm of Dirminger were soon conspicuous. The 
 Duke knew how to appreciate him, and on one 
 occasion, in the midst of a hot attack, it was to 
 the brave Dirminger that the Duke was indebted 
 for his life. It was the skill and intrepidity of 
 Dirminger also, which mainly contributed to de- 
 cide the victory which brought a speedy and 
 an honourable peace. 
 
 The Duke, full of gratitude to his preserver, 
 thoua'ht that he could not do less than offer to 
 him in marriage the youngest and most beautiful 
 of his daughters. 
 
 Dirminger was not insensible to her charms, 
 nor to the honour of an alliance with a house 
 so ancient and illustrious, but his nature was 
 too open to act the part of a deceiver ; he dis- 
 closed the fact of his marriage, and related frankly 
 all the circumstances attending it. 
 
 The Duke chagrined, in silence hung his head. 
 Presently however, he attempted to remove this 
 difficulty by telling him that an evil spirit had 
 inveigled him, that a promise to such fantastic 
 beings was better observed in the breach than 
 in the performance, and that, for the good of his 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 409 
 
 own soul, he desired to see him delivered from so 
 dangerous a connection. 
 
 But the image of the beautiful and endearing 
 Ondine seemed ever before him, as if to watch 
 and keep the heart she had engrossed. 
 
 The Duke, earnestly desirous of this union 
 with his family, partly to rej^ay a debt of grati- 
 tude, and with the hope of thus withdrawing 
 the Comte from what he looked upon as a fearful 
 league, and seeing that his words were all in 
 vain, now sought to entangle the heart of 
 Dirminger by stratagem. For this purpose the 
 Duke used every art to prolong his stay at the 
 palace ; the days were spent in hunting parties, 
 and the evenings in festivity and dance. Thus 
 passed days and weeks, and as time obliterated 
 the recollection of the sweets of quiet and do- 
 mestic life, it heightened the enjoyment of the 
 present hour of gaiety. 
 
 The youngest daughter of the Duke, now in all 
 the bloom and sprightliness of lovely youth, whe- 
 ther in the chase or in the dance, seemed ever in 
 the path of Dirminger. But her very artless- 
 ness had so disguised the intentions of her father, 
 and the Duke himself had so carefully abstained 
 from hinting at a repetition of his former offer, 
 
410 THE CHATEAU UE STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 that Dirminger, guileless himselfby nature, was 
 almost incapable of suspecting others. Lulled 
 into tlie belief of his security, he neglected the 
 precaution of defence ; he first only admired the 
 lively innocence of a young and lovely girl, but 
 as the image of Ondine grew fainter and fainter 
 on his mind, the personal attractions of her rival 
 became stronger, and as the one still faded, the 
 other strengthened ; until at last the image of 
 Ondine, effaced by absence and neglect of 
 thought, the power of the seducer in his path 
 prevailed, and the heart of Dirminger was en- 
 snared. 
 
 The Duke, seeing his success, now urged all 
 his former reasoning to the Comte, but the pro- 
 posal to desert Ondine was a dagger to his heart; 
 not yet so deep in guilt as to contemplate this 
 act without a start of horror, he had yet resolu- 
 tion left for making the determination to fly from 
 the danger which surroimded him. Exhausted 
 by the struggle of conflicting emotions he sunk 
 into a chair, and his head drooped upon his breast. 
 In this attitude of uncertainty, despondency, 
 and guilt, the eye of the now conscience-stricken 
 Comte glanced on the emerald ring upon his 
 finger ; there the name * Ondine ' shining 
 through tlie transparent gem recalled to mind 
 the loving, lovely, and once-beloved donor ; the 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG, 411 
 
 effect was magical, it seemed to conjure up be- 
 fore him the figure of his lovely wife, still lovely 
 as when first he met her near her favourite spring, 
 but with a countenance now bespeaking care 
 and sorrow. The bright image passed rapidly 
 before him and disappeared; but there was a mild 
 complaining look, expressing sorrow and forgive- 
 ness, which struck deep into his soul, and he 
 heard, or fancied that he heard, these plaintive 
 sounds: " Oh, Dirminger! if thou hast forgotten 
 me, remember yet thyself and child." 
 
 The Comte started up as if to pursue the lovely 
 image that had vanished from his sight ; his ap- 
 pearance was like one awakened by a frightful 
 dream — like one bewildered, or possessed, and 
 he rushed out of the chamber, uttering in piercing 
 cries, " Oh Ondine ! Ondine ! stay for me ! I 
 come ! I come ! " 
 
 The Duke, terrified at this scene of violence, 
 which he attributed to the effect of magic, fol- 
 lowed the distracted Comte, and by kind and per- 
 suasive words at length drew him into that state 
 of torpor which, it is known, so often follows 
 bitterest anguish. 
 
 The Duke, now taking advantage of tliis tem- 
 porary weakness of the mind, urged him again 
 
412 THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERC. 
 
 to break loose from the spell witli wliicli he was 
 surrounded, and to dissolve the league into which 
 he had entered with beings of another race ; he 
 lu'ged the present instance of the power which 
 these supernatural beings had gained over him ; 
 and that his peace, and perhaps his safety, were 
 now at stake. 
 
 The chaplain was called in ; he confirmed and 
 strengthened the reasoning of the Duke, and as- 
 sured the Comte that as soon as he had received 
 the benediction of the church, the magic illusion 
 which now decieved him would be dissipated. 
 
 The mind of Dirminger, long torn by the con- 
 flicting passions of remorse and love, was now 
 unable to make one further eifort. The Comte 
 was overcome ; he consented to es})ouse the 
 daughter of the Duke, and the day was fixed. 
 
 In the mean time all was rejoicing, and the 
 bustle of preparation was heard throughout the 
 palace. The lovely bride was gay and blooming, 
 and by degrees the Comte recovered his usual 
 cheerfulness. At length the day arrived, and 
 now for the first time, as the Comte was appa- 
 relling himself in his bridal garments, he missed 
 from his finger the emerald ring — attliis instant 
 a shaft seemed as if to have pierced through his 
 
THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 413 
 
 very heart, but it passed away ; a rising thought 
 had ahiiost stifled liiin, but it was repressed. 
 The ring was missing, it might only luive shpped 
 off his finger, and would again be found. 
 
 If mortal body can be sensible of joy when 
 conscience is aching under wounds, such was 
 now the joy of Dirminger when leading to the 
 altar his innocent and lovely bride. 
 
 The solemn rite was celebrated, and the mar- 
 riage vows pronounced. 
 
 On the evening of the same day a messenger 
 from StaufFenberg arrived in breathless haste to 
 inform the Comte that his wife and child had sud- 
 denly disappeared from the castle. 
 
 Dirminger informed himself of the particulars, 
 and found that the time of their disappearance 
 accorded precisely with the period of the mar- 
 riage ceremony. 
 
 This account seemed to confirm the truth of 
 what the holy father had assured him, and with 
 a heart now more at ease he mounted his horse, 
 and capering by the side of the prancing palfrey 
 which bore the lovely blushing bride, the ca\al- 
 cade moved forward towards one of the neigh- 
 
414 THE CHATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 
 
 bouring villas of the Duke, where the marriage 
 feast was to be held. 
 
 As all were gaily seated in mirthful humour 
 round the table, the Comte by accident cast his 
 eyes upon one side of the saloon, and there, re- 
 presented on tlie wall, he saw the figure of a 
 beautifully formed female foot. Motionless as a 
 statue he gazed upon the sight before him ; he 
 rubbed his eyes, but only the more clearly did he 
 see the fatal warning. Terror and remorse now 
 seized the unhappy Comte, and all the torments 
 of a troubled conscience rushed over him. 
 
 Cup after cup he tossed down in hope to dissi- 
 pate the dark presages which crowded on his 
 mind, "his imagination became bewildered, and 
 he heard, or fancied he heard, a solemn dirge, 
 conveying to his ears a whispering sound, heard 
 only by himself, in which he distinguished the 
 following words: — 
 
 <* Whither, whither canst thou flee, 
 
 Child of sin and perfidy ! 
 
 Penance cannot aid tliee now, 
 
 For dying groan 
 
 Can ne'er atone 
 
 For a broken nuptial vow ! 
 
 Silence closes o'er Ondine, 
 
 Child of tliine shall ne'er be seen, — 
 
THE CFIATEAU DE STAUFFENBERG. 415 
 
 Woe thy name and race betide ! 
 
 Oblivion's pall 
 
 Shall shroud them all, 
 And pillow thy virgin bride.** 
 
 The feast and revelry being over, tlie bride 
 and bridegroom, with all the bidden guests, re- 
 mounted their steeds and palfreys on their retiu'n 
 to the palace. In their way it was necessary to 
 ford a river. Scarcely was he in the middle of 
 the stream, when it began to foam around him 
 like a roaring torrent; the horse took fright, 
 floundered, threw its rider, and gained the op- 
 posite shore. For a few minutes afterwards the 
 waters raged with redoubled fury, but gradually 
 subsiding into a calm, the stream pursued its 
 usual peaceable and limpid course. 
 
 The Comte de Stauffen had disappeared, and 
 his body was never seen again. 
 
 It was dark when I arrived at Baden, but be- 
 ing eager to push forward, I determined upon 
 proceeding through the night to Kelil, a small 
 town, situated on this side the Rhine, just op- 
 site to Strasbourg. But, however, as there were 
 several dark forests to be passed through in the 
 night season, I thought it might be as well to 
 
41 G BADEN. 
 
 take this opportunity of fortifying the body with 
 a substantial supper, and of recruiting the spi- 
 rits with a bottle of the best Margraviate. 
 
 After dinner, I took the precaution of taking 
 from my portmanteau a brace of travelling com- 
 panions, which put the weak man, in respect 
 of strength, upon equality with the strongest ; 
 and by the time that I had served out to each a 
 fair proportion of powder and lead, and care- 
 fully allotted them snug places in my travelling 
 cloak, I heard my carriage drive up to the door. 
 
 My luggage stowed, and my account dis- 
 charged, all was now ready. I stepped into my 
 caleche ; " en route,'' resounded from my host, 
 and being re-echoed by my driver, we set off 
 at full speed down a steep descent, and were 
 presently enveloped in the gloom of the sur- 
 rounding heights. 
 
 Having descended from the wooded lieights 
 of Baden into the level country of the Rliine, 
 the remainder of our road ])resented little va- 
 riety, being cliiefly through the extensive woods 
 of oak and fir skirting the high range of moun- 
 tains which borders the Black Forest, and Avhich 
 here runs nearly parallel with the Rhine. 
 
STOLLHOFEN. BISCHOFSHEIM. 417 
 
 Occasionally, however, the view opened over 
 the extensive plain, and shewed by the pale moon- 
 light the fertile fields strewed with the golden- 
 coloured heads of the yet ungathered maize, 
 and the large deep-yellow pumpkin already men- 
 tioned. But tliese were only short and occasional 
 changes in the scene, for the overshadowing 
 woods prevailed, and shrouded all surrounding 
 objects as witli the darkest veil of night. 
 
 Passing through the small towns of Stollhofen 
 and Bischofsheim, we entered again into the 
 open country, where the Rhine pursues its 
 smooth majestic course. Here the mountains 
 of the Black Forest are vseen verging towards 
 the high opposite range, the mountains of the 
 Vosges, and seeming, afar off, to effect a junction, 
 the whole presents the appearance of a vast am- 
 phitheatre formed around the level country, 
 between these two strong boundary lines. 
 
 Soon was seen rising through the mists of 
 night the beautiful and lofty spire of the 
 Munster of Strasbourg, and presently the moon 
 beams, reflected from the river, discovered the 
 low straggling town of Kehl, an ill-fated town, 
 so frequently the scene of the miseries of war, 
 that it now appears almost deserted, and its few 
 straggling houses declare it to be yet but half 
 
 VOL, I, E il 
 
418 KEHL. 
 
 risen from the ashes to which, at the last con- 
 flict, it was again reduced. 
 
 This was formerly one of the most important 
 of the fortified towns on this part of the frontier 
 of Germany, and being situated on tlie bank of 
 the Rhine, directly opposite to the strong town 
 of Strasbourg, was always considered as one of 
 the principal keys which opened into Germany. 
 
 Having knocked up the master of the post- 
 house at Kehl, here I took up my quarters for 
 the short remainder of the night, and for a 
 reason which may be worth knowing. 
 
 The opposite side of the Rhine being in the 
 French territory, the travellers* baggage under- 
 goes the chsagreeable process of a very close 
 scrutiny ; on this side the traveller is in Ger- 
 many, and he is unmolested. 
 
 Sunday^ October 14. Rose early this morn- 
 ing, and leaving my baggage behind me at Kehl, 
 I walked into the town of Strasbourg, which is 
 situated on the opposite side of the Rhine, about 
 half a league distant. 
 
 The river, which is here broad, is separated, 
 excepting in the time of high floods, into two 
 
STRASBOURG. 419 
 
 channels, but both of these, as the current here 
 is neither very deep nor powerful, are crossed by 
 one long wooden bridge, supported upon strong 
 posts. The water of the Rhine, I also re- 
 marked, here presents a different appearance 
 from what I had hitherto observed, being now 
 of a beautiful light blue colour. Here this river 
 takes the name of the Upper Rhine, which it 
 retains as far as Mayence, from whence to Co- 
 logne it is called the Middle Rhine, and from 
 Cologne to the mouths in Holland the Lower 
 Rhine. 
 
 After passing the bridge, the road to the 
 town presents a fine appearance, being, for the 
 greatest part of the way, through handsome 
 avenues of trees. At a short distance from the 
 road, on the left hand side, and in an open 
 space, appropriated for the purpose, is a monu- 
 ment, erected by Buonaparte to the memory of 
 General Desaix, who fell gallantly in one of the 
 great conflicts on the Rhine. The attention of 
 the stranger is arrestedby the appropriate neatness 
 of this design. It is a pyramid, supported upon 
 a pedestal, the four sides of which are orna- 
 mented with finely executed bas-reliefs. 
 
 I stepped out of the road to pause over this 
 just and expressive tribute to the departed hero. 
 
 E E 2 
 
420 STRASBOURG. GENERAL DESAIX. 
 
 Various are the feelings at the sight of these 
 cold stones, overhung with evergreens and weep- 
 ing willows ! 
 
 The inscription is short and simple. To the 
 passing traveller it is left to fill up the epitaph 
 accordingly as his recollection of past events 
 may serve, for the following is all that is con- 
 veyed by words : 
 
 AU GENERAL 
 
 DESAIX 
 
 l'armee DU RHIN, 
 
 1800. 
 
 The entrance into Strasbourg is through a 
 series of intrenchments, one within the other, 
 presenting an appearance of formidable strength. 
 
 This town, since it has been appro])riated to 
 the territory of France, has been considered by 
 the French nation as one of its strongest frontier 
 holds, for whilst it secures an easy entrance into 
 Germany, it presents a powerful clieck against 
 any attempt at invasion from tliat quarter. The 
 value which the Frencli attiich to tliis place is 
 sufficiently evinced by the care and expence 
 manifested in the support of its fortifications. 
 Modern, however, in appearance, as are the 
 
STRASBOURG. 4^1 
 
 surrounding works, Strasbourg itself has all the 
 appearance of an old imperial city. 
 
 The liouses are lofty, and the streets, with the 
 exception of a few of the principal ones, are 
 dark and narrow. The Broglio, however, is a 
 handsome oblong square, planted with acacia 
 trees, and forms the most fashionable promenade 
 of the town. The two sides are occupied by 
 irregular, but good looking buildings, chiefly 
 cafe houses and i^staurateurs, and at the bottom 
 of the square stands the theatre, a neat and 
 handsome stone building, the front entrance of 
 which is supported by six lofty Corinthian stone 
 pillars. 
 
 This being the day for life and gaiety in all 
 the promenades, after dinner I mixed in the 
 busy scene. The public walks along the banks 
 of tlie 111 and the Breusch, two small rivers which 
 run through the town, were now thronged with 
 gaily drest and happy-looking bourgeois, and 
 presented a sight of much novelty and interest. 
 But the long and numerous avenues of noble 
 chesnut and beautiful acacia trees, with here 
 and there the open gardens tastefully laid out, 
 and ornamented with flowers along the margin of 
 the bright blue llhino^ formed one of the liveliest 
 and gayest scenes I ever witnessed. 
 E E 3 
 
4^2 STRASBOURG. — CATHEDRAL. 
 
 With respect to public buildings, Strasbourg 
 has nothing in particular to boast of besides the 
 cathedral, but this, indeed, is a noble and im- 
 posing structure. 
 
 The tower, which is reckoned between 550 
 and 560 feet in height, is, I beheve, the highest 
 in Europe, and probably the most elegant. 
 
 It does not present, I should think, so much 
 minute workmanship as the tower of the cathe- 
 dral at Antwerp, neither is it to be compared 
 with this in richness of effect, but it is incom- 
 parably more light and elegant ; so light, indeed, 
 in appearance, that the spectator can hardly be- 
 lieve that he is really gazing upon stone-w^ork. 
 The exterior of the church is the ornamented 
 Gothic ; but the finest of the ornamental work 
 is in the numerous niches which are occupied by 
 well executed figures carved in stone. Most of 
 these, however, are defaced by time and acci- 
 dent, but many of them are still sufficiently 
 legible to shew that they are too indecently sa- 
 tirical against the monkish vices of former days, 
 to be very appropriate ornaments in their pre- 
 sent situations. 
 
 The interior is plain, but heavy and im])res- 
 sivc, and the windows, which are considered iis 
 
STRASBOURG. CATHEDRAL. 423 
 
 the most beautiful specimens extant of painted 
 glass, are so darkened as to throw over the whole 
 church a deep gloom, which tends much to 
 heighten the solemnity of the effect. But this 
 beautiful structure is so generally admired and 
 known, that I feel it is unnecessary to detain 
 the reader here with further or more minute 
 details. 
 
 Whilst I was busily engaged in surveying the 
 interior of the church, my attention was sud- 
 denly diverted by the approach of loud clattering 
 noises, and presently I saw the general and prin- 
 cipal officers of the troops stationed in this town, 
 enter the cathedral, attended by a regiment of 
 soldiers, in full military equipment. 
 
 In another minute or two, when the officers 
 were seated, and the soldiers had taken their 
 places in ranks down tlie body of the church, I 
 was astonished by a tremendous crash of drums, 
 which ceasing, divine service commenced, and 
 the music was performed by a military band. 
 
 The sight of the body of this solemn edifice, 
 filled with armed soldiers engaged in holy prayer, 
 with the sound of warlike instruments resound- 
 ing through the long and lofty aisles, created in 
 my mind such a variety of emotions, that the 
 K f: 4 
 
424 STRASBOURG. CHURCH OF ST. THOMAS. 
 
 first feelings of surprize soon gave place to others, 
 better suited to the solemn and imposing scene 
 before me. To those accustomed to our simple 
 and unaffected form of public worship, there 
 seems a strange incongruity in this association of 
 military pomp with the holy duties of the church, 
 and this feeling marks one of the distinguishing 
 peculiarities between our established religion 
 and the religion of the continent. The one 
 entering immediately through the mind, re- 
 quires not the aid of exterior show ; whilst the 
 other, conveyed into the mind by the help of 
 material objects and outward forms, is strength- 
 ened by splendour of effect. 
 
 I next visited the church of St. Thomas, 
 principally pointed out to strangers as containing 
 a superb mausoleum, executed by the great 
 French sculptor, Pigale, to the memory of 
 Marshal Saxe, and another beautiful monument 
 to Schopflin. But these, however, owing to the 
 following trivial circumstance, I did not see. 
 The church doors being shut when I attempted 
 to gain admission, a person in attendance ofiered 
 to open them, and to point out to me tlie dif- 
 ferent interesting monuments, which civil offer I 
 readily accepted, and the door was accordingly 
 opened. But no sooner had I entered, than my 
 attendant retreated, and he was Justin the act of 
 
STRASBOURG. — THEATRE. 42.5 
 
 closing tlie door upon me, when I cauglit him 
 by the arm, and walked out with him, wishing 
 him, ' Boil soir.' His surprise seemed to be no 
 less than mine, and, for aught I know, with as 
 much reason ; his excuse now being that he was 
 about to step to his house for some other key 
 which would be wanting ; all of which might 
 have been very true, only this explanation came 
 rather late, and I did not see the necessity of so 
 much caution in closing the door after liim. 
 
 In the evening, according to the custom of 
 the country, and which is my only excuse, I 
 went to the theatre. The interior of the house 
 is elegant, clean, and convenient, and now filled 
 with the first rank and fashion of Strasbourg, w^as 
 a sight well worth a stranger's seeing. 
 
 Monday^ October 15. After roaming for about 
 a couple of hours this morning through the 
 streets of Strasbourg, before the shops were open- 
 ed, I walked back to Kehl, and about ten o'clock 
 I set out for Offenbourg on my road to Schaf- 
 hausen, intending to make that entrance into 
 Switzerland through the Black Forest. 
 
 Offenbourg is an ancient town, formerly of 
 some note, but now falling into decay. It is situ- 
 
426 OFFENBOURO. BLACK FOREST. 
 
 ated in a fertile plain on the liigji road to Basle, 
 and near the entrance into a beautitul valley. 
 
 Through this valley I now pursued my course. 
 For some distance the scenery is of the more 
 beautiful and cultivated description, but as the 
 valley becomes narrower and narrower it as- 
 sumes a wilder aspect, and at last terminates in 
 a narrow defile amongst the mountains of the 
 Black Forest. After winding for some time 
 through a route so narrow, that leaning out of 
 the carriage window, I could have touched the 
 mountain on either side the road ; we emerged 
 from this defile into the high and dreary country 
 of the forest. Here are seen mountains upon 
 mountains in wildest confusion, their lotly sum- 
 mits covered with stately firs, and beneath with 
 firs and oaks. It was altogether a scene of novel 
 and striking effect, which was now much heighten- 
 ed by night setting in, and with unusual darkness. 
 This darkness was but a bad foreboding, and 
 soon all my apprehensions were confirmed, for 
 towards night the wind became tempestuous, 
 and the rain descended in torrents. 
 
 It struck me as a curious circumstance that 
 the first storm, and almost, I might say, the first 
 rain which had occurred since I left Holland, 
 
THE BLACK FOREST. 427 
 
 should happen to overtake me in this wikl and 
 dreary country. It seemed as if intended to 
 prepare me for some adventure of romance, and 
 I now for the first time felt myself to be in the 
 midst of Mrs. Radcliffe's favourite scenery. In 
 vain I looked out of my carriage window, hoping 
 to excite romantic fancy to its highest pitch by 
 watching the tall pines bending their dark heads 
 beneath the pelting storm. In vain I looked out 
 for something to compare to Baptist's cottage ; 
 in vain I listened for the female shriek piercing 
 through the warring winds. Yes, it it was all in 
 vain ! I looked out, but could see nothing ; it 
 was darkness impervious to mortal eye. I listen- 
 ed, but could hear nothing, save the rain beat- 
 ing against my carriage windows, and the stormy 
 wind wrestling with the mighty forests round. 
 It was all in vain ! nothing would go wrong ! the 
 driver would not lose his way and play the rogue, 
 the carriage would not overturn, nobody would 
 come and rob me — nobody was going to be 
 murdered, and nobody wanted my assistance! 
 In short, I plainly saw that there was no likeli- 
 hood of any call, at least at present, either for 
 my pistols or my valour, and so placing the for- 
 mer articles in the carriage pocket, and myself 
 with all my stock of the latter article in a snug 
 corner of the vehicle, 1 gradually sunk into a 
 doze. How long this happy state continued I 
 
'428 THE BLACK FOREST. 
 
 cannot say, but it was certainly my vehicle com- 
 ing suddenly to a stop which brought me to a 
 consciousness of my situation ; when starting up 
 M'ith all tlie eagerness of one ready for some des- 
 perate encounter, I cried out, ' De quoi s*agit- 
 il ? ' ' Rien, monsieur, nous allons changer les 
 chevaux.^ 
 
 There was a something in the manner of this 
 reply which seemed at once to annihilate every 
 hope of an adventure, and I began to think that 
 the Black Forest might not be so very dreadful 
 as its name portended, and that possibly it might 
 afford me as good a supper as another place ; on 
 which last point, in order to inform myself^ I 
 now alighted, and forthwith entered a house of 
 entertainment for man and horse. But I soon 
 bescan to think that the entertainment would 
 prove better for the horse than for the man ; nor 
 was this impression afterwards removed, for such 
 was the filthiness and wretchedness of every 
 thing around, that a piece of bread sufficed me, 
 and would probably have sufficed a more craving 
 appetite than mine, if equally imused to the dis- 
 play of forest fare. Tliis wretched abode was, 
 to me, even more cheerless tlian the wide forest 
 itself, and I was glad to get back again into my car- 
 riage. Not so, liowever, thought my driver, and 
 
THE BLACK FOREST. 429 
 
 it required the oft repeated shout and ' Allojis,* 
 before we were again oi route. 
 
 The sighing of the wind and the pattering of 
 the rain soon lulled me into a train of quiet re- 
 flections, and these gradually subsiding into bro- 
 ken slumbers, the remainder of the night was 
 passed in a state of " half asleep and half 
 awake." 
 
 Tuesdai/, October 16. The break of day now 
 discovered to me a scene of as much savage 
 dreariness as the mind can picture. 
 
 The wind had fallen, but the rain continued to 
 pour down with persevering steadiness, and with- 
 out any present prospect of cessation. The gloom 
 of night seemed still suspended over the black 
 surrounding heights, and the dripping firs now 
 hung their tall dark heads, as if for very wretch- 
 edness. 
 
 Every object which here meets the eye njay 
 almost be said to speak the language of romance, 
 and indeed the whole of this forest district is full 
 of traditionary history, and wild tales of terror, 
 most of which seem to have been suggested by 
 the dreariness of the scene, or by some peculiar 
 though natural object. As an instance of this, I 
 
430 THE CHURCH OF ROCK. 
 
 will here relate the tradition recorded respecting 
 an enormous rock, in the shape of a church, 
 which is situated on the edge of a dark forest, 
 and is seen in passing through a wild and dreary 
 defile, between Oberachern and the valley of 
 Allerheiligen. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF ROCK. 
 
 Early tradition says, that this was the first 
 Christian church of the canton, built by a Ger- 
 man chief. 
 
 This chief dying, left seven daughters, as 
 beautiful as virtuous, who lived in deep seclu- 
 sion in an adjoining castle. This was in the 
 time when Attila, king of the Huns, arrived 
 upon the Rhine, in war against the Gauls. 
 
 For the purpose of conveying his innumerable 
 hordes over this river, he caused a great quan- 
 tity of rafts to be made, and numerous detach- 
 ments were sent into the Black Forest to fell the 
 necessary timber. 
 
 One of these detachments, by accident, w^an- 
 dered into the neighbourhood of the castle, 
 where dwelt the seven sisters, and soon the castle 
 and its unprotected inhabitants were discovered. 
 
THE CHURCH OF ROCK. 431 
 
 These barbarians had no respect for virtue or 
 for weakness, and their brutality knew no re- 
 straint. Tlie seven sisters seemed to have no 
 choice left but in death or in dishonour. With 
 such a choice they remained not long in doubt, 
 and were about to seek their safety in death, 
 when an old and faithful servant pointed out to 
 them the secret of a subterraneous passage lead- 
 ing to the church. Hither they hastened, and 
 full of pious resignation and holy zeal, they 
 gained the sanctuary, where they believed them- 
 selves secure from mortal harm. 
 
 But a faithless domestic betrayed the secret, 
 and the Huns, in fury, hastened to the chuich. 
 Finding the door secured, they ran into an ad- 
 adjoining wood ; there felling a lofty fir, and 
 lopping its branches and its top, with this tre- 
 mendous engine they returned in triumph to 
 force the oaken door. But arriving near the 
 church they were all amazement, for there was 
 neither door nor window, nor any means by 
 which to penetrate. The church was there, but 
 it presented the appearance of one solid piece 
 of rock, and from within were heard low and 
 mournful voices, rising in solemn chant. 
 
 The isolated inhabitants of these mountain 
 recesses hear still sometimes, in the dead of 
 
432 THE ORIGIN OF TRADITIONS. 
 
 night, the soft and lonely voices of the seven 
 virtuous sisters. The sounds seem to issue from 
 the rock, but they are of such a holy and ])a- 
 thetic sweetness, that instead of inspiring any 
 thing like a sentiment of fear, they warm the 
 heart with a religious fervour, and remind the 
 hearers of another and a better life. 
 
 Here, then, is a tradition arising evidently 
 out of a peculiarity in a natural object, althougli, 
 probably, the inroads and barbarities of the 
 Huns, or some of the nortliern tribes which, in 
 the early ages, over-ran these districts in their 
 progress to the more favoured countries of the 
 south, may have afforded some foundation to 
 this, and many similar traditionary histories, to 
 be met with in the Black Forest. 
 
 But some of these traditions, and which, i)ro- 
 bably, are of the earliest date, are free from all 
 historical allusion, and seem to rest wholly upon 
 natural circumstances. 
 
 To instance this, I will give the following 
 tradition, which has originated in a wild and se- 
 questered spot in the Black Forest, not far fi'om 
 the town of Fribourg, and which is called 
 
433 
 
 THE GROTTO OF SAINT ODILLE. 
 
 Odille was the daughter of Attich, Duke of 
 Alsace. She had beeu brought up iu the con- 
 vent of Mayenfield, and in her own mmd had 
 long resolved to devote herself to a holy life, 
 and to take the veil. 
 
 One day she left the convent to visit her fa- 
 ther's court, and all the youthful knights were 
 deeply stricken with her beauty. 
 
 Soon the young and beautiful recluse was 
 surrounded by lovers, and amongst the number 
 was a German Prince, whose suit the Duke ap- 
 proving of, his daughter was ordered to approve 
 of also. But Odille, considering herself as al- 
 ready devoted to a religious life, viewed the 
 proposal with horror, and knowing that her fa- 
 ther's will was to her a mandate, she divested 
 herself of her rich garments, and taking the 
 habit of a wandering beggar, she reached the 
 Rhine, and passed'safely in a little boat to the 
 opposite side. 
 
 Her flight was soon discovered by the Duke 
 who sent pursuers after her in all directions. 
 
 VOL. I. F F 
 
434 THE GROTTO OF ST. ODILLE. 
 
 He himself mounted his swiftest steed, and by 
 accident took tlie road which Odille had just 
 passed. The boatman described her so ac- 
 curately, that the Duke felt no doubt he was 
 close upon his daughter's steps, and with in- 
 creased eagerness he now pressed on. 
 
 Odille had already ascended half way up one 
 of the high mountains of the forest, looking 
 down upon the Rhine, when worn out with 
 fatigues to which she had been little used, she 
 seated herself upon a rock, and lifting up her 
 eyes to heaven, joined her hands in prayer. But 
 presently, startled by a distant sound of horses' 
 feet, she looked around, and beheld an ap- 
 proaching troop of horsemen drest in her father's 
 colours. 
 
 She hastily arose to save Jierself by rapid 
 flight. Fear at first acted like wings upon her 
 nimble feet, but soon her weak and gentle 
 nature yielded, and she fell exhausted upon a 
 rock. 
 
 The horsemen advancing witli a rapid pace 
 were now near upon the spot, when Odille, 
 trembling, lifted up lier hands to implore de- 
 liverance from heaven. Suddenly the rock 
 
THE GROTTO OF ST. ODILLE. 435 
 
 opened ! Odille entered, and instantly the rock 
 closed ! 
 
 Presently she heard the sound of horses* feet 
 above her, and her father's voice calling her by 
 name. 
 
 " My father," answered Odille, and Attich 
 gazed around in mute surprize. *' Odille," 
 cried he again, and he was seized with terror 
 onhearino; a second time the voice of his daughter 
 issuing as if from the rock beneath him. '* You 
 persecute him wlio protects me," replied Odille, 
 and she then related what had passed. Attich 
 now recognized the will of a superior power, and 
 swore to respect his daughter's vow, and to build 
 for her a convent. Upon this the rock opened, 
 and Odille came forth, arrayed in a garment of 
 celestial light. She fell into her father's arms, 
 and besought his blessing and forgiveness. 
 
 The rock has remained opened from that 
 day, and in the grotto which had liidden 
 Odille rises a medicinal spring, possessing many 
 virtues. 
 
 Numerous pilgrims and invalids make visits 
 to this sainted spot, and Saint Odille and lier 
 
 F F 2 
 
436 TOWNS OF THE BLACK FOREST. 
 
 holy life, though not recorded in the page of 
 history, is carefidly handed down by every fa- 
 mily within her presiding district. 
 
 Our route towards Schafhausen was, during 
 the whole day, through this vast forest. 
 
 We passed through several wretched villages, 
 the principal of which are called, as well as I 
 could catch the names, Hornberg, Villingen, 
 Donaueschingen, Blomberg, &c., all miserable 
 enough in appearance, but some exhibiting more 
 striking scenes of filthiness, loneliness, and 
 wretchedness, than I had e\'er before witnessed. 
 In one of these lonely villages, where I stopped 
 to breakfast, I was surprized to see placed be- 
 fore me some of the whitest and finest bread I 
 ever saw. , I observed also that which is gene- 
 rally found amongst the peasantry in most parts 
 of Germany, and which is preferred by them, a 
 sort of bread almost black, and so sour as to be 
 extremely disagreeable to those unaccustomed 
 to the taste. 
 
 Towards mid-day appeared harbingers of a 
 change of weather. Soon afterwards the rain 
 
SCENERY OF THE BLACK FOREST. 437 
 
 ceased, the clouds began to disperse, and about 
 one o'clock the sun burst forth in cheering 
 splendour. 
 
 The still dripping firs, now glittering in the 
 brilliant rays, began to uplift their over-biu- 
 thened heads, and nature, even in this dreary 
 wild, where, save the driver and myself, no 
 human being, bird, or beast, was visible, seemed 
 now enlivened into smiles. 
 
 The scenery throughout the day continued to 
 present the same wild character, sometimes en- 
 veloped in black impervious woods, sometimes 
 opening over wide tracts of desolation, inter- 
 spersed with large clumps of firs, and patclies 
 of cultivation, marking the poverty of the soil, 
 and the whole intersected and environed with 
 mountains clothed to their loftiest summits with 
 dark forests, impenetrable but to the wild ani- 
 mals which there find shelter and security. 
 
 There is in all this something singularly im- 
 pressive upon the mind ; not that the traveller is 
 here so much astonished by stupendous scenery, 
 as struck by the vastness and dreariness of these 
 high solitudes. Every object which meets the 
 eye is calculated to tinge the mind with gloom, 
 or rather with that sort of sadness called pleasing 
 F F 3 
 
438 BLACK FOREST. RAFTS OF TIMBER. 
 
 melancholy. Even the tall dark firs seem to 
 wear a funereal air in character with the scene, 
 and so well according with the appearance of 
 every thing around, that the siglit of these sug- 
 gested to my mind tlie idea of so many mourn- 
 ers, mourning over a wide waste, deserted by 
 man, and left to hideous bears, wild boars, and 
 ravenous wolves to roam and shelter in. 
 
 From this immense forest, however, Holland 
 is chiefly supplied with timber, which, being cut, 
 and carried by mountain torrents into the vari- 
 ous small rivers which here take their source and 
 fall into the Rhine, is from thence floated down 
 in the shape of rafts of enormous size. 
 
 The process of conveying these long and 
 bulky trees through the sliallow rivers of the 
 forest, must, however, require not a little inge- 
 nuity, and after all be a work of great labour and 
 difficulty. I happened to be passing by when a 
 large float of timber was coming down one of 
 these small rivers of the forest, and I stopped for 
 above half an hour to observe tlie process. 
 
 The trees laid lengthways, were fastened to 
 each other at both ends by ozier ropes, and thus 
 formed one large raft. Tlie river here making 
 several sudden bends as also shnllows, and stroiio- 
 
BLACK FOREST. RAFTS OF TIMBER. 439 
 
 rapids, it was necessary, in order to render the 
 raft manageable, to separate it into three divisions, 
 which was done by merely cutting the ozier 
 bands where the separations were required, and 
 each division was then pulled over the shallows 
 and through the rapids by means of horses, men 
 being at the same time stationed on the raft with 
 long poles for the purpose of keeping it off the 
 bank on either side. Each division being thus in 
 turn brought safely over the difficulties, the three 
 were then attached together as before, forming 
 one float, which extended certainly not less than 
 a quarter of a mile in length, though, owing to 
 the winding of the river, I never had the whole 
 of this float at once in view. Several little huts 
 were erected in diflerent parts of the rati for the 
 accommodation of the men who had the guidance 
 of it, but the accommodation, as may be sup- 
 posed, was cheerless enough with the water 
 rising between every tree. These floats, on 
 reaching the Rhine, are attached together, and 
 thus, formed into one raft of prodigious extent, 
 are carried down the stream to Holland, prin- 
 cipally to the town of Dort, where, as I have al- 
 ready mentioned in my visit to that town, the 
 shipment of this timber to different parts of the 
 world constitutes the chief trade. 
 
 F F 4 
 
440 BLACK FOREST. RAFTS ON THE RHINE. 
 
 In my passage up the Rhine I met one of 
 these immense rafts coming down, and the sight 
 to me was not a Httle curious. It appeared Uke 
 a Uttle colony afloat, with numerous and com- 
 fortable little habitations, live and dead stock, 
 and all the various necessaries for the subsistence 
 of a considerable population during a long voy- 
 age. The extent of this floating island I can 
 hardly venture to state, but all the common and 
 distant communications are by telegraphic sig- 
 nals. I saw the wicker basket hoisted upon the 
 top of a high pole to announce the time for the 
 general meeting at dinner. 
 
 In these unwieldy machines, which are of course 
 subjected to a great variety of accidents during 
 the navigation, are embarked very large capitals ; 
 and therefore a system of discipline and close at- 
 tention is necessarily kept up. The whole is 
 generally under the direction of one master, who 
 has the assistance of several others in subordinate 
 authority ; but as great skill and knowledge of the 
 currents of the Rhine is absolutely required, the 
 navigation of these extensive floats is an em- 
 ployment confined to a few individuals. 
 
 But to return from this digression. Having 
 watched the strange looking vessel first describ- 
 ed, until the wincUng of the river amongst 
 
BLACK FOREST. COSTUME OF THE FEMALES. 441 
 
 the woods had hidden it entirely from my view, 
 I resumed my seat in the carriage, and pro- 
 ceeded on my dreary route, sometimes vary- 
 ing its monotony by quitting the vehicle, and pur- 
 suing my way far in advance on foot. 
 
 Between two and three o'clock in the after- 
 noon we stopped for the purpose of refreshing 
 our horses at a small town, consisting of a few 
 scattered and wretched looking houses. Here I 
 had an opportunity of dining upon such viands 
 as the place afforded, and there was some time 
 to spare for looking about. It happened to be 
 fair day, which made unusual bustle in this little 
 town, and brought together a concourse of the 
 forest inhabitants. 
 
 The whole appearance of this group is suffi- 
 ciently strange, but the costume of the females is 
 remarkable. It consists of a short black velvet 
 jacket over a black stuff petticoat of scanty 
 length, worked in the front of the boddice with 
 gilt twist over a piece of red cloth, and a round 
 hat of white chip with a large brim. 
 
 But this description, though accurately given, 
 is calculated to convey a very erroneous idea of 
 the reality, for every visible part of this female 
 dress is so filthily dirty as to be disgusting to the 
 
442 THE INHABITANTS OF THE BLACK FOREST. 
 
 sight, and the whole looks as if it had never been 
 taken off from the time wlien it was first put on. 
 In short, from all I saw, my opinion of the inha- 
 bitants of the Black Forest is, that they are a very 
 dirty race, dirty in their persons and in their 
 habitations, and that this is the effect of choice, 
 or rather of hidifference, which is here the same 
 thing. 
 
 They appear however to be a hardy and con- 
 tented people, having but few wants beyond their 
 bread, wine, and tobacco, all of which they seem 
 to enjoy in sufficiently good quantity and quality. 
 The bread I generally found very good, fre- 
 quently excellent, and the wine, which is chiefly 
 white, and of a light sort, and which is the com- 
 mon beverage of the inhabitants, is pleasant 
 enough and cheap enough. For a chopine of 
 this wine, w^hich is a measure containing perhaps 
 rather better than an English pint, I never paid 
 more than twelve kreutzers, (about three half- 
 pence of our money) and sometimes a few kreut- 
 zers less, and no doubt I was always overcharged. 
 
 About six o'clock we reached tlie confine of 
 the forest district, and soon commenced a long 
 and steep descent into the canton of Schafhausen. 
 At the bottom of tliis descent the road en- 
 ters a defile between two high ranges of hills 
 thickly covered with oak and fir, and this defile 
 
SCHAFHAUSEN. 413 
 
 gradually expands into a valley in which is situ- 
 ated the town of Schafhausen. 
 
 But it was now past eight o'clock, and the 
 darkness of night had already, in this sheltered 
 valley, rendered nature " one universal blot," and 
 I was not sorry to find myself soon afterwards 
 snugly lodged in' the little parlour ' a I'Aigle 
 noir.' 
 
 Here comfortably seated before a very nicely 
 served supper, with only my own thoughts to 
 keep me company, the circumstance of my en- 
 trance into another country naturally threw me 
 into reflections upon that which I had just 
 quitted ; and so amusing w^ere the recollections 
 which then crowded fresh upon my mind, that 
 notwithstanding tlie fatigues of a long day, I 
 found the night far in advance before I was 
 aw^are of the arrixal of tlie usual hour of rest. 
 
 And here with a retrospective glance will 
 I close my narrative through Germany. — 
 The reader who may have been beguiled of a 
 few hours by following my steps along the dykes 
 of Holland, or in tracing with me the course of 
 the majestic Rhine, will not, I trust, regret this 
 expenditure of his time, i^ I should have suc- 
 ceeded in bringing back to the recollection of 
 those who may have pursued the same route. 
 
444 RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the iniao'GS which these scenes could not fail to 
 leave upon their minds, or in creating in the 
 imagination of strangers a faint impression only 
 of those which are imprinted on my own, I shall 
 not altogether have failed in the object which 1 
 have proposed to myselfj in thus exhibiting to 
 the test of criticism, an attempt at description of 
 scenery which, it may, perhaps, be truly said, 
 sets at defiance the utmost powers of the pencil 
 or the pen. 
 
 As to the observations in which I may have 
 occasionally indulged, I am conscious that the 
 rigid censor wall pronounce them light and su- 
 perficial ; but, be it remembered, that I have only 
 promised to describe faithfully what I saw and 
 felt, and this promise I know I have performed. 
 
 However imperfectly I may have succeeded, 
 either in description or in remark, I still flatter 
 myself that enough has been said to furnish ma- 
 terials for deeper reflection, and for more inte- 
 resting observation in others. In contemplating 
 the character of the Hollanders, much will be 
 foimd for admiration in that steady and per- 
 severing industry w^hich has enabled them to 
 recover, as it were, even from the elements, the 
 very soil upon which their habitations rest, and 
 to exhibit a peo})le living below the level of sur- 
 rounding waters j holding a high rank amongst 
 
RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 445 
 
 the powerful nations of Europe, and enjoying an 
 ample supply of the luxuries and refinements of 
 distant countries. 
 
 In the varied scenes through which the Rhine 
 holds its unceasing course may be selected pic- 
 tures to please every imagination. Those v/ho 
 delight in the magnificence of nature's works, or 
 who can find charms in the rich and sequestered 
 spots which incessantly strike the eye as the 
 abodes of a peaceable and contented peasantry, 
 may alike be gratified ; and the whole cannot fail 
 to exalt the mind to loftier thoughts, and to the 
 adoration of the " Great First Cause." 
 
 I must call in the assistance of the more i)lay- 
 ful reader to plead my excuse for the legendary 
 tales in which I have indulged. These will 
 generally be found amongst descriptions of scen- 
 ery calculated to lead the imagination into the 
 pleasing delusions of romance, and to accom- 
 modate the mind to the superstitious credulity 
 which gave birth to these fictitious histories, or 
 grounded them upon some early traditions, which, 
 in many cases, appear to have had some basis of 
 truth for their foundation. 
 
 To the sedate reader, who may say that works 
 of fancy ill associate with a narrative professing 
 
446 RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 to deal in facts, I would deprecate his censure by 
 assuring him tliat none of these are fictions of my 
 own imagination. 
 
 If, as I hope, tlie facts and observations con- 
 tained in this narrative bear the impress of truth, 
 or convey to otliers the honest impressions of my 
 own mind, these, surely, cannot be impeached or 
 w^eakened by an introduction of the recorded 
 fancies of past ages ; for, as I have already stated, 
 these do in fact exist as legends in the countries, 
 and are attached to the very spots referred to. 
 The incidents are, I believe, faithfully related, 
 and any liberties which I have taken are almost 
 entirely confined to style and language. To this 
 I shall only add, tliat the fancy displayed in 
 these relics of the early times have not been 
 thought lui worthy of notice by many of the most 
 celebrated of the German poets, in whose works, 
 as I have been informed, most of these tradition- 
 ary tales arc to be found ; but as these are in a 
 foreign language, and have been subjected to the 
 fancy of the poet, I have thought tliat they might 
 not be the less acceptable to English readers, by 
 being presented to them in plain English prose, 
 with as much of their native simplicity of cha- 
 racter as the change of language would permit : 
 but if they only serve as marks to arrest the 
 attention and fix upon the memory of past or 
 
RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 447 
 
 future ramblers like myself, the scenes referred to, 
 trifles as they may be called, I shall not consider 
 these, even, as having been written altogether in 
 vain. 
 
 To my promise, however, of not presuming to 
 trespass upon the province of the historian, or to 
 venture upon the task of offering to the intelligent 
 reader remarks on the political or moral state of 
 countries well known, I shall faithfully adhere. 
 
 Presumptuous, indeed, would it be in me to 
 of][er any observations of mine on subjects which 
 have been handled by Mad. de Stael and many 
 other able writers. I shall therefore content 
 myself with observing in general, on my route 
 through Germany, that the traveller will find 
 perfect security, both of person and property, 
 slow but sure conveyance from town to town, 
 and bad accommodation, with tolerable fare at 
 reasonable prices. 
 
 The numerous petty states into whicli Ger- 
 many is divided, and the rigid military system 
 which exists in all, ensure protection to the liarm- 
 less traveller; and the Germans, wlio seem proud 
 of assimilating their national character witli tluit 
 of our countrymen, will leave the English gen- 
 
448 RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 tleman nothing to complain of in respect of hos- 
 pitality or courtesy. 
 
 The facilities of travelling in Germany are very 
 similar to those in France, the landkutche or 
 diligence, and the post horses, being under the 
 control of tlie respective governments. The 
 German postilion, however, being employed to 
 convey the carriage and its contents for a certain 
 distance, and possessing, perhaps, less vivacity of 
 character than his French brother of the whip 
 and reins, or, certainly, more regard for the ani- 
 mals entrusted to his care, proceeds much more 
 leisurely along the road; and, however impatient 
 the traveller may be, he will soon be convinced 
 of the inutility of persuasion or threat in accele- 
 rating his speed. In this respect, the German 
 postilion of the present day seems to be precisely 
 what he was in the time of Dr. Moore, a part of 
 the machinery of the vehicle, calculated to move 
 at the rate of one German mile per hour, and no 
 more. 
 
 To this living automaton threats or persuasion 
 are alike unavailing ; he turns his head at the 
 sound of either, takes the pipe from his mouth, 
 listens, answers " Yaw, Mynheer, yaw, yaw," re- 
 places the pipe in his mouth, and jogs on as before. 
 
RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 449 
 
 The roads, in general, are wide and neglected, 
 but certainly improve towards the south, and are 
 there, sometimes, even what in England would be 
 called sound and good. I allude here particu- 
 larly to the Bergstrasse road, which is altogether 
 excellent, and which adds much to the pleasure 
 of that beautiful and imposing part of the 
 country. 
 
 I am now about to trace my course through 
 Switzerland, and if the reader should be tempted 
 to accompany me further, he may meditate with 
 me amongst the regions of eternal snow. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 VOL. I. G G 
 
London : 
 
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