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The Columbia University Libraries reserve the right to refuse to accept a copying order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. Author: U.S. Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce Title: The hosiery industry Place: Washington, D.C Date: 1915 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DIVISION BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET ORIGINAL MATERIAL AS FILMED • EXISTING BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD ff 360 Un3 '♦.>*- / U-.'i. Buroau of foroign and domostio oommeroe* • • • The ho3iery industry. Report on the cost of production of hosiery in the United States. V/ash- ington. Govt* print, off., 1915« 268 p. inol. diugr«, chart. S5oin« ^Miscollar- neous Qorioa, no,3l) At head of titlet Department of oonmieroe. •# Bibliography: p«256-258* RESTRICTIONS ON USE: MASTER NEGATIVE # TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA FILM SIZE: 3>^m«/> REDUCTION RATIO: na IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA (ha) IB MB DATE FILMED: 2.\\S\^^ TRACKING # : AfS// ^VfegG INITIALS: W-^ FILMED BY PRESERVATION RESOURCES. BETHLEHEM. PA. J^/ A^' a^ '^. > DO O a II o IN CO CJl OOM O ^^. ^e: 3 3 > o m OQ C/) < N M a: .'^' A' ^, <^ ^. _"& ^^^ ^^. ^^. ^ e' e^ *^: =i^ A^ .V^ ^i5 o o 3 3 o 3 3 o o 3 3 O pi^i^iiPi?ig|g|. 1^ 11^ I g o> 00 b ro In 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm AB« DEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdef[ihi|klmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 2.5 mm ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890 ^^ tr i? ^ A /• i^ ■/!> A?' '^ fA? c .<^^> ^^-v ^^"^^^ <^ -^ fo ^p m O O ■o m "o > C c*> 1 7j ^ 0(/) ; m 3D o m w. m '^ Cf 4ft 3 3 if s O 3 3 3 X f/3 >c ' i' DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE BUREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE E. E. PRATT. Chief SEP -' ^ 1923 MISCELLANEOUS SERIES-No. 31 T TTPJTJ 11 W^^ SCHOOL OF BUSINESS THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY REPORT ON THE COST OF PRODUCTION OF HOSIERY IN THE UNITED STATES WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1915 (Columbia Winiixviitv mttjeCttpof ^etogorfe y \ LIBRARY School of Business DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE BUREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE E. E. PRATT, Chief MISCELLANEOUS SERIES-No. 31 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY REPORT ON THE COST OF PRODUCTION OF HOSIERY IN THE UNITED STATES WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1915 lil '»; CONTENTS. ADDITIONAL COPIES OF THIS PUBUCATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS GOVERNMENT PRINTIN«i OFFICE WASHINGTON, D. C. AT 25 CENTS PER COPY CO ■ 3) Ur^■3 .\ Letter of submittal ^^^' Introduction ' The hosiery and knit-goods industries ' . '\ g Scope and method of investigation 34 Summary Capital, profit, and turnover 00 Cost and profit by groups of establishments 35 Cost and profit by specified units 37 Manufacturing conditions 00 Simplified cost accounting «« Selling methods ^ Hosiery products ^j Hosiery machinery ^^ Losses from antiquated machinery ^ Machine gauges and yam counts ^ Manufacturing processes aa Employees ...[[.]... 45 Wages and hours of labor ^ Imports of hosiery ^ Exports of hosiery and knit goods ^ Imports and exports of hosiery machinery 40 Chapter I. — Capital, profit, and turnover 49 Manufacturing and final profit qa Percentages of profit on capital and net sales 51 Higher profits on full-fashioned hosiery 52 Varying profits according to locality 53 Percentages of profit by establishments 55 Profits earned by large and small establishments 53 Profits of full-fashioning mills 53 Turnover of capital ^g Profits of mills using different materials go Tariff rates on hosiery of different materials qi Chapter II. — Cost and profit by establishments ^3 Cost and profit based on net sales ^3 Percentages of specified items of cost gg Largest profits made on full-fashioned hosiery gg Comparative administrative and selling expense 70 Percentages of cost and profit by establishments 71 Cost based on manufacturing and selling expense 82 Factors in successful manufacturing 55 Establishments with highest percentages of profit 85 Profits not dependent on low labor cost 90 Establishments operating at a loss. 91 Direct and indirect labor combined gg Labor cost and import duties 99 Wages and cost of materials 99 Conditions under tariff acts of 1897 and 1909 100 8 CONTENTS. Page. Chapter III.- Cost and profit by specified units 104 Cost and profit of units sold to retailers 104 Cost and profit of units sold to jobbers 122 Cost and profit by grades 123 Cost of materials in units 125 Cost of direct labor in units 142 Chapter IV.— Manufacturing and selling 146 Manufacturing conditions 146 Large and small factories contrasted 147 Efficiency necessary for success 149 . Inadequate cost-finding methods 150 Simplified cost accounting 153 The quantity method 154 The direct labor method 155 The prime cost method 155 The dual method 156 Selling methods 158 Branded hosiery 159 Expense of selling to retailers 160 Comparative advantages of different methods 162 Methods of selling by establishments 163 Profits on sales to retailers and jobbers 165 Profits as affected by national advertising 167 Trade abuses 168 Chapter V.— Products, machinery, and processes 171 Hosiery products 171 Kinds of hosiery 171 History of hosiery styles 171 Demand for seamless and full-fashioned hosiery 172 Hosiery improvements 172 Hosiery machinery 173 History 173 American development of hosiery machinery 176 Seamless knitting machine 178 Full-fashioning knitting machine 178 Flat seamless knitting machine 179 Ribbing machine 179 Recent improvements in seamless ma( hinery 179 Looper 181 Boarding machine 181 Cost of machinery 182 Losses from antiquated machinery 182 Machine gauges and yarn counts 186 Needle spacing 185 Yam counts 186 Yams commonly used 187 Manufacturing processes 188 Winding 1^ Ribbing 189 Transferring or topping 189 Knitting 190 Welting 1«1 Looping or joining 191 CONTENTS. 5 Chapter V. — Products, machinery, and processes — Continued. Manufacturing processes — Continued. page. Seanfing 192 Inspecting or examining and mending 192 Dyeing 192 Boarding 192 Pressing 193 Pairing 193 Stamping 193 Ornamenting 193 Folding 193 Boxing 194 Order of processes 194 Chapter VI. — ^Working conditions Id5 Employees 195 Wages and hours of labor : 198 Chapter VII. — Foreign trade 218 Imports of hosiery 218 Rates of duty under recent tariff acts 219 Imports during recent years 221 Exports of hosiery and knit goods 233 Imports and exports of hosiery machinery 234 Superiority of American machinery 235 Exportation of American machines 236 Suggestions for increasing foreign trade 237 Argentina 239 Austria-Hungary 241 Brazil 242 Canada 242 Chile 243 China 244 Colombia 247 France 247 Germany 247 India 249 Italy 249 Pern 250 South Africa 250 Sweden 251 Tasmania 251 Turkey 251 United Kingdom 252 Venezuela 253 Imports into outlying territories and foreign American countries 254 Chapter VIII.— Bibliography 256 LETTER OF SUBMITTAL. Department of Commerce, Bureau op Foreign and Domestic Commerce, WasJdngtonj August 20^ 1915, Sir: I beg to submit herewith a report on the cost of production of hosiery, which is the second of a series of reports to be issued by the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce regarding the cost of production in different branches of the clothing industry. This investigation was undertaken in accordance with the act of Congress approved August 23, 1912. In addition to the cost of production, the report contains information concerning imports and exports, working conditions, factory equipment, selling methods, and other trade conditions of interest in coimection with the hosiery industry, and some practical suggestions with regard to efficient factory management based on interviews with manufacturers and on the personal observations of the special agents. According to the Census of Manufactures, the value of the hosiery produced in the United States in the calendar year 1909 was $68,721,825, of which the value of cotton hosiery was $55,909,987. The importations of cotton hosiery in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1909, were valued at $6,390,923, or 11.43 per cent of the production in the calendar year 1909. Such importations during the fiscal year 1914 amounted to $2,949,678, or 5.28 per cent of the domestic pro- duction in 1909. This percentage would undoubtedly be much lower if the imports in 1914 were compared with the domestic production in that year. During the nine months from October I, 1912, to June 30, 1913, the average rate of duty on the imports of cotton hosiery, computed on the ad valorem basis, was 69.35 per cent. During the period from October 4, 1913, when the new tariff went into effect, to June 30, 1914, a month before the war in Europe began, the average ad valorem rate on such importations was 44.6 per cent. Nearly aU of the im- portations of hosiery are of the cheaper grades of full-fashioned cotton hosiery. The production of such hosiery in the United States is small as compared with the production of seamless hosiery. The labor cost of making full-fashioned hosiery is larger than the labor cost of 7 8 LETTER OF SUBMITTAL. making seamless hosiery. No tariff act has ever made a distinction between the rates of duty on full-fashioned hosiery and those on seamless hosiery. The statistics of exports do not classify the exports of hosiery separately from those of other knit goods, but the exports of all classes of cotton knit goods increased from $] ,016,325 in the fiscal year 1909 to $2,546,822 in the fiscal year 1914, or over 150 per cent. In the investigation of the cost of j^roduction of hosiery, reports were secured from 73 establishments located in 16 States. Some of these establishments were large and some small, but all were fairly representative of the industry. Their sales during their last business period, usually a year, amounted to $27,010,893. Manufacturers usually were found to be willing to furnish the information desired in this investigation, but 24 of thosc^ visited, of whom 15 were in Philadelphia, refused. The concrete results of the investigation appear in the summary of this report while the detailed information is given in the various chapters. The general conduct of the field work of the investigation has been under the direction of Walter B. Palmer, a special agent of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. In the field work and in the preparation of the report he was assisted by Special Agents David M. Barclay, Joseph Broido, Edward S. Fawcett, Harry Gell, J. Knight Rector, Thomas A. Williams, and Stanley D. Winderman. The general direction of the office work and the editing of the report has been in charge of Gustavus A. Weber, expert in charge of the cost of production division, assisted by Henry J. Bierman. E. E. Pratt, Ohiff of Bureau. To Hon. William C Redfield, Secretary of Commerce. COST OF PRODUCTION IN THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. INTRODUCTIOir. THE HOSIEBT AND KNIT GOODS INDTTSTEIES.o In the value of products the hosiery and knit goods industries (considered as one industry) ranked thirtieth among the industries of the United States in 1899 and twenty-seventh in 1904 and 1909.^ The industry is widely distributed; in 1909 there were one or more estabhshments making hosiery or knit goods in 38 of the 48 States. Of the total production in the United States during 1909, amounting to $200,143,527, the per cent produced in each of the 10 States with the largest production was as follows: New York, 33.5; Pennsyl- vania, 24.8; Masssachusetts, 7.4; Wisconsin, 3.9; Ohio, 3.2; Illi- nois, 3; Connecticut, 2.9; North Carolina, 2.6; New Hampshire, 2.4; Michigan, 2.*^ The principal centers for the manufacture of cotton hosiery in the United States are Philadelphia and Reading, Pa. Woolen hosiery is largely made in New England. A large proportion of the cotton knit unaerwear manufactured in the United States is made in Utica, Amsterdam, and other places in the Mohawk Valley in New York State. Cohoes, N. Y., is an important center for the manufacture of woolen knit underwear. New York City is the principal center for the manufacture of bathing suits. Little Falls, N. Y., is a center for both sweaters and cotton knit underwear. In the last few years there has been a great increase in the manufacture of both hosiery and knit underwear made of cotton in the Southern Atlantic and Middle Western States. Table 1 gives data regarding the production in various cities: Table 1. — ^Manufacturing Centers op the Hosiery and Knit Goods Indus- tries, 1904 and 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. vni,p. 125] Cities. Philadelphia, Ta. . New York, N.Y.. Amsterdam, N. Y. Utica, N.Y Cohoes, N. Y Little Falls, N.Y. Reading, Pa Value of products. 1909 1904 $23,901,699 12,386,254 8,158,701 8.053,844 5,087,315 4,464,852 4,551,087 $15,770,873 6,030,721 4,677,022 5,261,166 4,126,873 2,547,676 2, 540, 105 Per cent of United States total. 1909 12.0 6.2 4.1 4.1 2.6 2.3 2.3 1904 11.5 4.4 3.4 3,9 3.0 1.9 1.9 a In this introductory chapter describing the industry in the United States as a whole it was not pos- sible to consider the hosiery mdustry separately from that of the knit goods industry because in the Census reports from which the figures were mainly obtained these two industries are group^ together. The other chapters of the report relate to the hosiery industry only. * Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. VIII, p. 45. cIbid.,Vol. X,p. 68. 10 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. INTRODUCTION. 11 In the reports of the Bureau of the Census statistics are given of ^W.P'^ 15''^^'''' ""^ ^^''^ t ^^^ foUowing classes of goods: flosiery; mI^^J drawers; combination suits; sweaters; cardigan jackets ti^l ?- ^ ^""^ "^^^r^ ^ ^i'''^^ ' ?^^^^ •' ^^bi^«^ ^^^' ; «i^a^^s ; boot and shoe hnmgs; yams for sale; and all other products. Except as re- gards production, however, the statistics in the reports of the Bureau goods^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ separately given for these diif«irent classics of \.Z^^ information which follows regarding the manufacture of hos- iery and knit goods was compded from a section of the report of the Census of Manufactures in 1909.« Statistics of the hosiery and knit goods industries were first ob- tained by the census of 1849, when 85 establishments were reported, Zt fl^n^flA ^ • r^ ^^ $1,028 102^ In 1859, 197 estabUsLents ZXIf^r f .^.^^ products valued at $7,280,606. Table 2 sum- f?n^ 1 Lq ? ^1 nno^'''^ f ^^^^^ industries for each census for 40 y<.ars, from 1869 to 1909 inclusive.^ The financial figures for 1869 are given in currencv, which at that time was worth only about 80 cents gold to the dollar For strict comparison, therefore, these figures should be reduced about 20 per cent. ; 5 u uiu c Ji'^'^%'^^?'- '"^ 1^09 1,374 establishments in the hosiery and knit goods industries, in which 136,130 pei-sons were engaged, of wliom was /^9 Tirfi^rf^^T^ ''"'l- ^^ ^^^^^^^ P^^^ i^ ^^1^^^^ *^nd wages was $5^,4dl,b80. Ihe value of products was $200,143,527- the cost of materials $110 241,053, emial to 55.1 per cent of W value of prod- ucts; and the value added by manufacture was $89,902 474 Be- tween 1899 and 1909 the number of wage earners increased 54.5 per cent, while the cost of materials, value of products, and value added by manufacture more than doubled. Part of the increase shown in cost of matenals and value of products, however, may doubtlesn be Attn bu ted to increased pnces. The growth of the industry has been continuous throughout the penod covered by Tables 2 and 3, each census showing a substantial increase as compared with that preceding. The number of estab- lishments reported for 1909 was more than five times bs great a., in 18b9 and the value of products nearly eleven times as great. The greatest relative growth took place during the decade 1879-1889, each Item for which comparable figures can be presented showing a greater trT'bf ^^ increase for this decade than for any other covered by a Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, pp. 6&^; also separately issued as a bulletin. MiLUONS or DOLLARS • W 1* NEW YORK PiNNSVLVANIA MASSACHUSETTS iwiSCONSIN 'oMO ILUNOIS CONNECTICUT NORTH CAROUNA NEW HAMPSHIRE MICHiOAN RHODE ISLAND NEW JERSEY TENNESSEE QEORQIA VIROINIA INOUNA MINNESOTA VERMONT MARYLAND COUTH CAROUNA Pio. 1. — ^Value of the products of the hosiery and knit-goods industries in the more important States, 1899 and 1909. 9 fS,OM,000 to M.ooe.ooo 3 tl.Oai,000 to $3,000,000 o tumjm to tt,ooo.ooo O Lev than tl,000,00t FiQ. 2.— Distribution of the value of products of the hosiery and knit-goods industries, by States, 1909. ■ I n^^Tigj mi^et^£uaammimtaii>4 12 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 2. — General Statistics op the Hosiery and Knit-Goods Industries Census Y'ears 18()9-1909. ' [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 67.] Items. Number of establishments.. Persons engaged In the in- dustry Proprietors and firm members Salaried employees Wage earners (average niunber) Primary horsepower Capital Expenses Services Salaries Wages Materials Miscellaneous Value of products Value added by manufac- ture (value of products less cost of materials) 1909 1,374 136,130 1,134 5,721 129, 275 103,709 $163,641,171 175, 729, 583 52,431,680 7,691,457 41,740,223 110,241,053 13, 056, 850 200,143,527 89, 902, 474 1904 1,144 109,489 1,067 4,330 104,092 78, 769 $106,943,072 123,276,675 36, 069, 758 4, 455, 151 31,614,607 76, 789, 348 10,417,569 137,076,454 60,287,106 1899 1,006 («) («) 2,831 83,691 57, 346 $82 0(55,517 8) ;W5,367 27 .-.72,657 ;5, 138, 160 21, 134,497 51 195,330 •).t.27,380 95^ ^33, 692 44,(138,362 1889 824 («) (°) («) b 59, 774 34,564 $.50, 686, 206 57,922,723 18, 325, 261 («) (o) 35,949,865 3, 647, 597 67,446,788 31,496,923 1879 398 6 30,699 11,561 $15,732,291 (o) 6.839,195 («) (a) 15.449,991 («) 29,613,581 14.163,590 18fl0 248 («) («) («) b 14, 788 6,498 $10,931,260 («) 4,429,085 («) («) 9, 8;ir), 823 («) 18,411,564 8,575,741 a Comparable figiires not available. b Figures not strictly comparable with those for later years. Table 3. — Growth of the Hosiery and Knit-Goods Industries in the Census Years 1869 to 1909, Expressed in Percentages. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 67.] I terns Per cent of increa.se.o 1899-1909 1904-1909 21 1 24 3 6.3 32 1 24 2 31 7 63 42 5 45.4 72 6 41 5 43.6 25 3 46.0 49.1 1899-1904 1889-1899 1879-1889 1869 1879 Number of establishments 36.6 13.7 22.1 107.0 60.5 Persons engaged in the industry Proprietors and firm members Salaried employees 102.1 54.5 80.8 99.4 105.8 90.2 145.1 83.1 115.3 97.0 108.8 101.4 52.9 24.4 37.4 30.3 44.4 30.8 42.0 29.4 50.0 57.2 43.0 35.1 Wage earners (average number) Primary horsepower 65.9 61.9 47.4 50.5 199.0 222.2 77.9 43.9 Capital Expenses Ser\ ices 167.9 54.4 Salaries Wages Materials 42.4 81.7 42.1 41.7 132.7 57.1 Miscellaneous Value of products 127.8 122.4 60.8 65.2 Value added by manufacture (value of products less cost of materials) a Where percentages are omitted, comparable figures are not available. Table 4 summarizos, by States, the more important statistics of the industries, the States being arrangid according to the value of products reported for 1909. Of the 10 leadmg States in 1909 on the basis of value of products, North Carohna showed the largest percentage of increase from 1899 to 1909 (403.6). Still higher percentages of increase, however, are shown for Tennessee and Minnesota. Vermont and South Carolina are the only States which show a decrease in value of products between 1904 and 1909. ' The diagram (fig. l,p. 11) shows graphically the value of products reported for the most important States in the industries in 1909 and 1899, and the map (fig. 2, p. 11) shows the distribution of the value of products, by States, for 1909. INTRODUCTION. 13 P5^ <1S 05 „ HO OS OObH M nr r? 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If » 3 — I « o 2 >.3 .S ^-^ 3 fc » 3 C to 14 THE HOSIERY INDUSTBY. INTRODUCTION. 15 Table 5 shows in some detail the products of the hosiery and knit- goods industries in the United States during the census years 1909, Table 5— Quantity and Value op Hosiery and Knit Goods Produced in 1899 iyu4, and 1909, and Per Cent op Increase prom 1899 to 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 79.) Table 5.— Quantity and Value of Hosiery and Knit Goods Produced in 1899 1904, AND 1909, and Per Cent op Increase from 1899 to 1909— Continued. ' Hosiery: Dozen pairs Value Cotton, merino, and woolen- Hose— Dozen pairs Value Cotton — Dozen pairs Value Mo'ino or mixed — Dozen pairs Value Woolen or worsted- Dozen pairs Value Half hose— Dozenpairs Value Cotton — Dozenpairs Value Mwino or mixed — Dozen pairs Value Woolen or worsted — Dozen pairs Value SUk- Dozen pairs Value Shirts and drawers: Dozens Value All cotton — Dozens Value \[".[." Merino or mixed — Dozens Value " All wool — Dozens Value Silk and silk mixed- Dozens Value Combination suits: Dozens Value [ All cotton — Dozens Value Merino or mixed — Dozens Value ] ' " All wool — Dozens Value Silk or silk mixed- Dozens Value Sweaters, cardigan jackets, etc.: Dozens Value Gloves and mittens: Dozen pairs Value Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc. : Dozens Value 62,825,069 168,721,825 34,499,562 $37,903,011 32,499,104 134,078,622 834,029 S1,4H6,283 1,166,429 12,358,106 27,891,093 127,218,398 24,80.5,917 $21,831,365 2,023,641 $3,299,912 1,061,535 $2,087,121 434,414 $3,600,416 25,337,779 $69,592,817 22,567.121 $50,007,598 2,536.473 $17,055,624 178. 163 $1,820,521 56,022 $709,074 2,473,103 $14,853,536 2,047.637 $9,713,597 364,387 $4,217,432 50,102 $688,289 10, 977 $239, 218 2,221,410 $22,430,817 2,527,889 $7,296,887 888.223 $3, 21V, 983 44,186,063 $44,113,260 25, 999, 813 $26,152,043 24, 169, 804 $22,764,799 746,226 $1, 182, 164 1,083,783 $2,205,080 18, 144, 185 $17,438,914 15,223,243 $11,821,830 1,611,066 $2,214,678 1,309,876 $3,402,406 42,065 $522,303 19,723,141 $56,643,860 17,107,958 $39,658,762 2,113,810 $13,031,754 485,328 $3,647,934 16,045 $305,410 1,440,420 $6,793,947 1,260,301 $4,478,664 105,242 $1,199,949 68,067 $965, 132 6,810 $150,202 811,629 $8,345,369 2,260,508 $5,556,260 589,315 $1,774,862 o A minus sign (-) denotes decrease. 29,903,899 $27,420,029 16,641,769 $16,203,372 15,028,173 $13,275,732 436, S91 $659, 959 1, 176, 705 $2,267,681 13,249,558 $11,030,244 11,352,081 $7,906,945 957,520 $1,384,764 939,957 $1,738,535 12,572 $186,413 15,873,700 $45,675,594 12,058,431 $26,882,902 2,675,416 $13,293,829 1,085,046 $4,980,818 54,807 $518,045 986,865 $3,691,847 824,632 $2,240,566 139,994 $1,133,328 9,501 $201,667 12,728 $116,286 594,090 $3,498,837 1,898,587 $4,241,046 343,429 $1,002,392 Per cent. 110. 1 150.6 107.3 133.9 116.3 156.7 90.9 122.2 - .9 4.0 110.5 146.8 118.5 176.1 11L3 138.3 12.9 20.1 3,355.4 1,831.4 59.6 52.4 87.1 86.0 - 5.2 28.3 -83.6 -63.4 2.2 36.9 150.6 302.3 148.3 333.5 160.3 272.1 427.3 238.8 -13.8 105.7 272.9 54L1 33.1 71.9 158.6 221.0 Products. 1909 1904 1899 Increase, 1899-1909 Shawls: Dozens 218,923 $916,294 9,726,770 $1,209,464 $1,785,531 7,457,412 $1,568,417 488,322 $217, 114 o $10, 118,371 435,306 $1,293,348 11,768,961 $1,249,401 $1,000,083 3,304,615 $654,234 491,559 $345,849 $10,306,064 157,622 $328,720 10,406,440 $2,205,003 $498, 790 2,419,282 $422,100 134,529 $76,690 $7,268,434 Per cent. 38.9 178.7 - 6.5 -45.1 258.0 206.2 27L6 263.0 183.1 39.2 Value Boot and shoe linings: Square yards Value Yams for sale Cotton- Pounds Value Woolen, worsted, and merino — Pounds Value All other products Total value b$200 143 527 c*i57 ma ACiA $95,833,692 108.8 a Includes products to the value of $1,028,907, the character of which pertains to the following industries- Boxes, fancy and paper; clothing, men's, includmg shirts; clothing, women's; dveing and finishing tex- tiles; fancy articles, not elsewhere specified; gloves and mittens, leather; hats arid caps, other than felt straw, and wool; instruments, professional and scientific; photographic apparatus and materials; waste' and woolen, worsted, and felt goods, and wool hats. XI.* 1°,?^*^*^°'^' hosiery and knit goods to the value of $2,975,749 were made in 1909 by establishments in the followmg mdustries: Boots and shoes, rubber; clothing, men's, including shirts; clothing, women's- cotton goods, mcluding cotton small wares; gloves and mittens, leather; hats and caps, other than felt' straw, and wool; millinery and lace goods; silk and silk goods, including throwsters; woolen, worsted, amd felt goods, and wool hats. In 1904 products to the value of $1,579,633 were made by establishments not engaged prunarily in the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods. Of the total value of products of the industry in 1909, that of hosiery constituted 34.3 per cent; that of shirts, drawers, and com- bination suits, 42.2 per cent; that of sweaters, cardigan jackets, etc., 11.2 per cent; that of gloves and mittens, 3.6 per cent; and that of all other products, 8.6 per cent. In the case of each of the classes of hosiery, as well as of shirts and drawers and combination suits, the cotton product predominated as to both quantity and value. Of the total value of the hosiery manufactured in 1909, $68,721,825, cotton hosiery amounted to $55,909,987, or 81.35 per cent; merino or mixed hosiery to $4,766,195, or 6.94 per cent; woolen or worsted hosiery to $4,445,227, or 6.47 per cent; and silk hosiery to $3,600,416, or 5.24 per cent. Of the total value of the cotton hosiery manufactured in 1909, $55,909,987, hose amounted to $34,078,622, or 60.95 per cent, and half hose to $21,831,365, or 39.5 per cent. Of the total value of the merino or mixed hosiery manufactured in 1909, $4,766,195, hose amoimted to $1,466,283, or 30.76 per cent, and half hose to $3,299,912, or 69.24 per cent. Of the total value of the woolen or worsted hosiery produced in 1909, $4,445,227, hose amounted to $2,358,106, or 53.5 per cent, and half hose to $2,087,121, or 46.95 per cent. During the 10 years from 1899 to 1909 the production of hosiery increased in value 150.6 per cent; cotton hose, 156.7 per cent; cotton half hose, 176.1 percent; merino or mixed hose, 122.2 percent; merino or mixed half hose, 138.3 per cent; woolen or worsted hose, 4 per cent; woolen or worsted half hose, 20.1 per cent; silk hose and half hose, 1,831.4 per cent. 16 THE HOSIERY 1 iVDUSTRY. Table 6 shows the different products of the hosiery industry in 1909, 1904, and 1899, by States: Table 6.— Quantity of Hosiery Produced, by States, During 1899, 1904, and 1909, AND Value op the Product in 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 81.] Products and States. Hosiery. Connecticut Georgia Massachusetts. . . Michigan New Hampshire. New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Virginia Wisconsin All other States. Cotton . Connecticut Georgia Illinois Massachusetts New Hampshire. New Jersey New York North Carolina. . Pennsylvania Virginia Wisconsin All other States., Hose. Georgia Illinois Massachusetts... New Jersey North Carolina. . Pennsylvania... Wisconsin All other states. Half hose. Georgia Illinois Massachusetts... North Carolina. . Pennsylvania... Wisconsin All other states. Woolen or worsted . . Connecticut New Hampshire. Pennsylvania Wisconsin All other States. Merino or mixed . New Hampshire. Ohio Pennsylvania All other States. Silk. Pennsylvania... All other States. Value, 1009. $68,721,825 1,109,617 2,389,012 4,780,351 1,419,432 3, 164,. 589 1,603,231 639, 185 664.128 30,847,344 522,282 3,806,117 17, 776, .537 Quantity. 1909 Dozen pairs. 62,825,069 55,909,987 302 2,389 2,914 3,734 984 735 264 4,100 28,697 522 2,935 8,339 ,1)49 ,012 ,121 ,618 243 ,731 ,720 .«i89 ,548 ,282 .926 048 34,078,622 1,018,086 1,729,376 2,801,323 626,199 2,877,922 16,058,169 1,774,409 7,193,138 21,831,366 1,370,926 1,184,745 9a3, 295 1,222,767 12,639,379 1,161,517 3,318,736 4,445,227 420,639 1,589,567 805.726 350, H36 1,278,461 4,766,195 590, 779 504, 939 163,ti66 3,518,811 3,600,416 560,100 3,726,330 4,506,960 605,589 2,681,273 850,932 355,687 400,275 27,832,601 715,807 2,373,261 18,216,254 1904 Dozen pairs. 44, 186, 0(i3 672,242 1,880,495 'J,790,m) 356, 459 2,300,948 1,101,536 233,697 411,817 20,327,710 561,484 1,673,731 11,875,084 1H99 Dozen pairs. 29,903,899 57,305,021 39,393,047 97, 616 3,726,330 3,069,634 4,280,266 1, 186, 912 752, 452 280,383 5,806,140 27, 139, 582 715, 807 2,042,952 8, 206, 947 29,529 1,880,495 1,861,140 2,556,261 1,043,153 1,090,511 194,564 2,928,032 19,707,227 561,484 1,449,096 6,091,555 32,499,104 1,226,235 1,188,667 3,506,546 656, 239 3,879,392 13,876,893 1,143,366 7,021,766 24,805,917 2,500,095 1,880,967 773,720 1,926,748 13,262,689 899,586 3,562,112 2,227,964 232,629 991, 105 429,918 128,894 446,418 2,857,670 503,256 323, 948 118,604 1,911,862 434,414 1,190,405 2,410,011 145,497 288,917 24,169,804 602,388 504,304 2,118,093 949,862 1,950,578 11,769,534 1,337,595 4,937,450 15,223,243 1,278,107 1,356,836 438,168 977, 454 7,937,693 111,501 3,123,484 2,393,659 164,679 600,706 502, 226 187,876 938, 172 2,357,292 657,089 239, 162 97,222 1,363,819 42,065 21,035 21,030 393,111 1,195,362 2,363,872 445,612 1,592,267 794,926 160,272 233,716 15,232,324 360,300 657,866 6,474,271 26,380,254 95,818 1,194,772 1,662,150 2,255,341 559, 439 757,836 78,248 1,069,431 14, 858, .506 355,800 347,614 3,145,299 15,028,173 400,427 469,000 2,031,921 694, 195 726,094 7,863,561 256,586 2,586,389 11,352,081 794,345 1, 193, 150 '223,420 343,337 6,994,945 91,028 1,711,856 2,116,662 171,211 784,891 207,200 124,265 829,095 1,394,411 247,937 105,000 160,618 880, 85« 12,572 6,000 6,672 INTRODUCTION. 17 Of the total value of hosiery manufactured in the United States in 1909, $68 721,825, Pennsylvania produced 44.89 per cent; Massachu- setts, 6.96 per cent; Wisconsin, 5.54 per cent; New Hampshire 4 60 per cent; Georgia, 3.48 per cent. New York, the leading State in the knit-underwear industry, produced only 0.93 per cent of the total production of hosiery. In the quantity of production of all kinds of hosiery the greatest percentage of increase during the decade 1899-1900 was mkde bv Wisconsin, 260.8 per cent, followed by Georgia, 211.7 per cent. Ut the total value of the cotton hosiery manufactured in the United States in 1909, $55,909,987, Pennsylvania produced 51.33 per cent- North Carolina, 7.33 per cent, Massachusetts, 6.68 per cent- Wis- consin 5.25 per cent; Illinois, 5.21 per cent; Georgia, 4.27 per cent In the quantity of production of cotton hosiery the greatest per- centage of increase during the decade 1899-1900 was made bv Wis- consm 487.7 per cent, followed by North Carolina, 442 9 per dent In the manufacture of woolen and worsted hosiery New Hampshire is the leadmg State. In 1909 it produced 35.76 per cent of the total production, $4,445,227. In the manufacture of merino or mixed hosiery also New Hamn- shire is the leading State. In 1909 it produced 12.40 per cent of the total production, $4,766,195. ^ In the manufacture of silk hosiery Pennsylvania is the leading $3^600 416 produced 33.06 per cent of the total production^ 1QnQ^^^Q^7 ^""a ?cn^n''Ti^^ geographic divisions, for the censuses of 1909 1904, and 1899, the output of hosiery, of shirts and drawers of combination suits, of cardigan jackets, sweaters, etc., and of gloVes and mittens, and the value of aU other products in the hosiery and knitgoods industries. -^ The Middle Atlantic division is the leading division in the manu- tacture of hosiery and knit goods, as measured by total value of prod- ucts, and also ranks first in the production of each class of products shown separately in the table. The New England division ranked second m the total value of products in 1909, the East North Central third, and the South Atlantic fourth. The South Atlantic division a7u^'''a ''^''^^^ ^^^""f "? ^^ ^^^^ "^ ^^^ quantity of hosiery output and third m that of shirts and drawers, showing increases of 221 5 per cent and 53.2 per cent, respectively, for the decade. In 1899 the New England division outranlced the South Atlantic in the quan- tity of hosiery production, but by 1904 it had dropped to third place w . x/^Tn • J^^ industry is comparatively unimportant in the West North Central, the two South Central, and the fountain and i;acihc divisions, but high percentages of increase for the decade are shown for all these divisions. The principal statistics secured by the census inquiry concerning and 10^^^^^ ^""^ knitting miUs are presented, by States, in Tables 9 1)963°— 15 2 -fc^..^^- i-m Ml ^1 ■ ^haftg 18 D P ca E O j= o I— 1 Hi < Q < > Tt*" o l-l 05 iz: I—t < ^ Oi KB H Oi 00 I— I P :?; U M o ^ ta OD PL| ;? o ij H4 < «J > 1-4 Q t-l p:: h) Ai o 05 << » « M n H t-4 o H H ;? o H) < H O H • H h) m •«j H THE HOSIERY INDUSTBY. 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" • • • 10—10 CO1-ICO eOrf© COOS'"*) ost^co :322 SS^ SSa -^ ' ' «0«5 co«o^ e4^ * • • • m «' o OS 'S" t^mo coosM eoosoo 2liz!i S'SSS co'coco -H ' " linn O >C O linn t>.t-«>< *n^ 06 06 «> c>i p* t^Nn "(J IS ®< >X™< t»H'C 1 C8 a a> O xs C8 ■♦a a O i:ISSg;Hs lOC'^CTi H4J. >00 § I n^ii -3 O GQ O 3 o s Ah ■d § I n a » o 1^ e<9«c e e On t^r- t*t^ e«eo Ml ;00 o fc- eS s 2 ^ 2 aco Ah 20 GQ m m THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. 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O O CO OiOS CO N c _ . S;C).^_C,3t-iOO(Mi-"oc' cCCC-rfC!fOXt^iCeOiOC-co— > 'wSjioeo 1^ ■v I-< 1-1 1-( OeOiO— OC0 •»eoco r-i-io i-(005«o5it^05'^cococo •«» CO CO CO OC 0> CO Oi > eo "i^ i^ CO •«»' eo 5^ . ) I— I F-1 1— 1 I— I c^j ( •*®OXi-o>ecoot-Cfli--«Qu5 0Cft(NeO(MiC— ■vCcOOl>Ga53'»C"0i-c^Ccr-o«-ic><»ooii-'0»w*eo-^aooi~- oo"co~»c"r-''io cc'^-^inint-^d'^ t-^cc-^nae^ci'ccOt^i<-tcOCT>cooJt-(N'C>ocooti-x54Cji-«'00'veor-c^i-o-H-»j. W~V^ jc' OS or(N~'^'"t--"oroc"»c"Tr'i-rcj ss'eo"'^'" t^eoi-NotJOOcoooot^iOio^Hu^cfioo© ■»»'h-0>»0'9'»Ci— '"rOlOOl— OC0t-"Oi-iO c^eo"-— oo"eo"e^f irT'^ or'ci" -* — "— "^ -^ T-i «o eo i^ioeoocoi»cicpoo{ c^— to a o PhPJ 03 B .S -S $ S? t- c 31' M J? I- e 03 CO ■^ K^ ^— < evi I- I- © I 1- J- CI s ^ ♦0 «o 1^ S CQ § O 03 IN S § S I .3 3 o h5 (N >C M u •M s o •3 -sie-j pq e5 OQ Q O O O g 55 W ^^ Oi Q 00 «< P« h M tf > 0} r. O ^ n 3 +» H ^ 3 s ;:^ CO ^ ««j o o 55 .£3 pq i (D (h ;z; A o 00 « H f^ PE, O (0 u CD P "< H OQ Q H H ^ H » Q CO i-i c I •3 a 03 CO •i § •I 1^ 9 -a CO 3 •3 a n « CO 3 e 03 « C8 •3 xi ■«-> »^ Xi s 3 I • 2 -a J ^1 3^ la CO 9 ■a a 9 9 •a >< t; O C Im © © Ph O,-^ oJcB Q^ 3 fe^.'i g INTRODUCTION. 21 o '^®2?P^S?0*o*Qf5^Heou5t-'M'^cor-'*t^oooc>»o»c>»u3 »oc»o»'*eocj ■* 1-1 c» 00 CO ■«»• 36 o CO t- CO M5 t^ 35 o CO Teoooic^ooco 1-1 C4^N »-iec uiCftSco^ CO CO 3 CO 1-1 CO I OS ^1 •«' i-< I 00 s « ^-4 <3J iC 00 ^H »C eo NWQOCDCpt-OOftt-cDO*'^©' •-•'j'OcOaaoO'^uocMcO'^'^r-.i CO eq CO eo "5 05 1-1 i-H co»oor-( §■«?< ^ 00 »o •* "5 00 us -^ »^ CO © c^wt-^-t— t^r>.t-«co«oeoeo a6 •«r CO »o © eo CO 00 -< cO © 0» 00 ■ <-« S8 N (-1 ,-1 f-4 »oc« cs -M ^ e< e>« 00 ^ ^ sg S2JPS'^<*^"'oe<}e<'9<©oO'»fop»©r^cD'«»-e<5 •«• 3 a o 03 ha 9 t- 00 lO CO cot o eo c>» 'j5 CO ( ooo — oococ e» e«N^ ^»w CO w CO TT e« CO ^ CO CO CO ®2^i£ « « «nao 05 <«« 5 08 OS 08 03 ®^ ®5 as 3 oj OS fcSSSJ^S? SS?"^^© '-"«'* O'^Nt^ --"C e<5 — coofeo SSSS?^S2S'^sJ__5oqS_^ffc5SSSSi2iiis '-'^ ©"ei" ^ e^»o'~ ecoT ^ <^ eo ec eo weoN eo 1^ i^- ® 3 -^9 O O j^3 ^00o0009309^ CXiO O 9 9 9 ^ 03 a 08 2 I 3 o o i-icc>»-Huoe«©^©,-(05cO'^©t-'«»>co»oe»i« CO cs« CO •'T t^ © © e>« © © «o © ,1 35 © — -1 « t^ a6 1-1 i_i © p. csi i-> CO C4e>4f-I »^ » d ^ eo c« ttiioeoao^ eo CO eo r4 ««• K4 c»»0Qeot-'C0'^co c* i-ieoc4 ©QO«it^i-i'»>t-.«coo©oc*c'^'*-^<»«Okc©-wooco i-irHift W5VO-H-H ^::it*e5co«t^ — oo«o(N-HS»HiH«©eo ^ ^1 T^ CO OIN.-ICOO »-• CO i-t cicooeoeoo cococo-ve*«ooc^c5©"SN eo M eo c« '-<"o'eir»-rco ea't^-^icTeo o i-T eo ,J-^_r •^ eo ^< .©C«©.«.t>.t>.ea^[»i.^rtt^ « g^-* ^ceeo-HCsicocSSroSi^ SZh^SSI^ eo ^•^ e^l ui 00 a 03 i4 o 08 i Xi CO 3 03 HI i 5§ eo as « So® o3 ,„' «8 ••-■•SS 3 W)o c3 s Xi on 0'>. 03 . SJ= S O 85 fe Oo eS C >>(n^ « "^ •■^fldOy9,Si«t'''»08-Siam®®Ox5S 03 03 O "w a If CO 3 08 I- 9-^9 eS 2 "3 3 C C ••^ »-^ ^m C3 s8 h C 9 .S Xi <^ 22 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. INTRODUCTION". 23 The average number of wage earntTs in the industry during 1909 was 129,275. In Table 11 the number is distributed according to age, and in the case of those 16 years of age and over according to sex, for 1909, 1904, and 1899. As will be seen the wage earners are largely female. The percentages of females 16 years of age and over was approximately the same for 1899 and 1909, though that for 1904 was a little higher. Although the actual number of children has shown an increase at each succeeding census, the per- centage which they have formed of the total number of wage earners has decreased. Table 11. — Average Number op Wage Earners in the Hosiery Industries, 1899, 1904, and 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactiires, Vol. X, p. 70.] AND Knit Goods 1909 1904 1899 Classes. Number. Per cent distri- bution. Number. Per cent distri- bution. Number. Per cent distri- buti^ (j) NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES. 1. State average number engaged in direct labor (B-1), in( hiding helpers not on pay roll, and in indirect labor (C-2-3 1-5), and engineer and fireman (D^), in the establishment (not contract shops) during 191. ., by months: January May September February June October March July November Ap^" August Dcicember 2. Classify, as follows, such employees during the month (busy season) of , J-if J. • • • 16 years of age and over. Under 16 years of age. Male. Female. Male. Female. Time. Piece. Time. Piece. Time. Piece. Time. Piece. - >••••..•••• 3. Oflacials or partuers actively engaged in the business: Indirect labor (C-1) . . . ; administration (E-1), ; cost to seU (F-1), ; total (none counted twice), 4. 'y^Tiat operations in making or trimming garments are performed by contract? 5. Enter under "Remarks" the names and addresses of contra* ^tors, stating whether their shops are inside or outside the establishment and whether or not they work for this establishment exclusively. (k) REMARKS. Foregoing d?'ta furnished , , 191 *. '. ^ to Special Agent Agents of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce visited the establishments and requested j)ermission to examine the books of accounts m order to obtain the desired details. Assurance was given that the information would be regarded as conlidentittl and would not be used in such a way that the establishments could be identified. The form of this assurance was as follows: Department op Commerce, Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Washington. Confidential. (One copy of this agreement to be retained by the manufacturer and one copy to be forwarded to the chiei of the bureau.) The information which has been given to Mr , 8j)ecial agent of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, is furnished with the understanding that the name or address of the establishment will not be written on the schedule; that the information on the schedule will be considered by the Bureau and its special agents as absolutely confidential; that it will not be divulged; and that it will not be published in such a way that the identity of the establishment will be shown. This information, which appears on establishment schedule No. , has been obtained from the books and from the officers of the establishment, and, to the best of our knowledge, is correct. (Special agent's signature) . (Manufacturer's signature) . Date, , 191—. The investigation was opposed at the annual convention of the National Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers held in Philadel- phia May 12-14, 1914. The following preamble and resolution were imanimously passed at this convention: Whereas the investigations that have been authorized by Congress and which are being made under the direction of the Department of "Commerce at Washington as to the cost of manufacture in connection with the present business conditions as the basis for determining the defects of the Underwood-Simmons tariff bill in its relation to manufacturing interests would not at this time be a true reflection of the actual results of the new tariff bill: Therefore be it Resolved, That we recommend to the Department of Commerce that these investi- gations be postponed until at least a year after the Underwood- Simmons bill became a law, for the reason that practically all manufacturers are still operating on orders taken prior to the passage of the new bill; hence the adverse effects can not be felt until old orders have been exhausted. c^ On account of this action a number of manufacturers refused to comply with the request to furnish data regarding the cost of pro- duction of their establishments. The numb(^r that refused was 24, of whom 15 were in Philadelphia. Notwithstanding this action of the convention, reports were secured from 36 members of the National Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers who manufactured hosiery and from 14 members who manufactured knit underwear. The information secured during the investigation was obtained directljr from the manufacturers and from their books. No data regardmg the cost of production were accepted that the agents did not find recorded on the books of the establishments reporting. From data entered on the establishment schedules the figures were derived which show the various items of the cost of production and also the percentages of profit on net sales and on the capital employed in the business. The further object of the investigation was to ascertain the details of the cost of manufacturing specified styles of hosiery. The fol- lowing form, called a unit schedule, was prepared for the entry of such data. o Textile Manufacturers' Journal, May Hi, 1914, p. 35. 30 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Confidential. Establishment No. UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OP COMMERCE, BUREAU OP FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCB, WASHINGTON. Unit Schedule — Hosiery. Unit schedules should be obtained for men's hose, women's hose, children's hose or infants' hose. * Unit: One A unit schedule should be used for each unit. (A) WHOLESALE AND RETAIL PRICES. Price to jobbers. l*rlce to retailers. Usual original retail price. Gross price. Usual per cent discount. Net price. Gross price. Usual per cent discount. Net price. StyleA,f % t s S StyleB,$ StyleC,$ StyleD,$ StyleE,$ StyleF,$ Secure samples of hosiery for each style. (B) DESCRIPTIONS OF HOSIERY. Specifications. Style A. Style B. Style C. Style D. Style E. Style F. 1. For 2. Yam 3. Made 4. Welt 5. Heel 6. Toe 6. Needles 1. Men, women, children, or infants. 2. Cotton, wooljvorsted, silk, or artificial silk. Abbreviate to C, W., Wd., S , or A. S., and hyphenate 3. Seamless or full fashioned. 4. Selvaged or ribbed top or sewed or int^ral welt. 5. Looped or sewed. 6. Number per inch on fiat machines. Outside diameter of cylinder in inches and number of needles in circumference on cxrcular machines, as "3J-220.'* ""«^»oa lu INTRODUCTION. (C) MATERIALS USED IN UNIT. 31 Specifications. Style A. Style B. Style C. Style D. Style E. Style F. 1. Kind 2. Ounces 3. Price per pound 4. Cost v.*.. 5. Kind 6. Ounces 7. Price per pound 8. Cost 9. Kind 10. Ounces 11. Price per pound 12. Cost 13. Kind 14. Ounces 15. IMce per pound m _ 16. Cost 17. Total yam cost % % S s s s \' 1, 5, 9, 13. Trade name, abbreviated as directed on list of yams. 2, 6, 10, 14. Used in making 1 dozen pairs of hose. 3, 7, 11, 15. Present gross price per pound. 4, 8, 12, 16. Gross cost of each kmd of yam used in making unit. 17. Gross cost of all kinds used in unit. (D) COST OF MATERIALS IN UNIT. Items. Style A. Style B. Style C. style D. style E. style F. 1. Findings 1 $ * s 1 S 2. Boxes 3. Needles 4. Seconds ...... 5. Gross cost, sundries % S s s s $ 6. Gross cost, yam (C-17) 7. Total gross cost, all materials 8. Discoimt at — per cent, amount 9. Netcost all materials. ( 1 1. Total all materials not specified, but not to include cost of chemicals used in bleaching or dyeing. 2. Cardboard boxes, also paper, twine, and labels. 4. Includes waste. 8. Percentage A-11 is of A- 10 on the establishment schedule. (E) DIRECT LABOR COST OF UNIT. Operations. Style A. Style B. Style C. Style D. Style E. Style F. 1. Bleaching or dyeing.- 2. Winding and knittmg 1 $ % s s... s 3. Looping 4. Sewmg 5. Finishing 6. Total direct labor 1 1 1. Includes cost of chemicals. 2. Includes ribbing. 4. Sewing heels or toes of hase. 5. Includes boarding, boxing, and all oi>erations not specified. 32 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. (F) TOTAL NET COST OF UNIT. Summary. Style A. Style B. Style C. Style D. Style E. Style F. 1. Materiar(D-9) 1 $ f s 1 g 2. Direct labor (E-6) 3. Overhead charges, as com- puted by establishment. . 4. Total net cost Each unit was one dozen garments of a speciiied style. The amount paid for each kind of material used was ascertamed, also the amount paid for each direct labor operation. These items the manufacturers could easily give. Wliat the trade commonly calls ''overhead" was found by computatum, according to the method called ''the dual method," explained on page 156, in a section of this report headed "Simplified cost accounting." Many manufacturers were interviewed by special agents of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce in regard to subjects re- lating to the knit underwear industry that were not included in either the establishment schedule or unit schedule, and much valuable in- formation regarding general trade conditions was thus obtained. By arrangement with the Secretary of Labor, special agents of the Bureau of Labor Statistics gathered information from manuf actiu-ers of hosiery in regard to the number of their employees, the hours of work, the weekly earnings, and the working conditions of the employees in 1914. Such information is presented under the heading "Wages and hours of labor," pages 198 to 217 of this report. The plan of the Biu-eau of ForeigTi and Domestic Commerce to obtain data regarding the cost of production of knit underwear in European countries was interrupted by the beginning of the war in Europe in August, 1914. SUMMARY. CAPITAL, PBOFTT, AND TUBNOVEB. The 73 establishments for which data were obtained reported cap- '^919^^?^^ m business amounting to $15,548,885, an average of $212,988 per establishment. ^ In tabulating the data the establishments were divided into seven groups, accordmg to materials used, according to product, and to fXw"^ accordmg to locations. These seven groups are as Group I includes 9 miUs knitting fuU-fashioned hose, or both full- fashioned and seamless hose, made of silk or cotton or silk and cotton ""^i V iP; *u?^^ ^^^ f ^^^^ fuU-f ashioned hose exclusively and 5 made fuU-fashioned and seamless hose. Of the 9 mills 5 were in Fennsylyama and 1 each in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New York and Indiana. ' ' \.^^^^^n¥' "Jf^^^^^ 16. northern mills knitting seamless cotton hosiery (15 m Pennsylvania and 1 in New York) l.nSl^''V-^ ^^^^4^^ }^ l?""^^^^ "^^ knitting seamless cotton ^. I Tv.^n'"' ^^""^^^^^ 4 m North Carolina, 3 in Malyland, and 1 each m South Carohna, Tennessee, and Missouri). Group IV includes 11 mills knitting seaniless hosiery of silk or of cotton and silk mLxtures (aU in Pennsylvania) Group y includes 9 mills knitting seamless hosiery of silk or of cotton and silk mixtures (4 m Wisconsin, 3 in Ohio, and 2 in Illinois). Group VI includes 4 mills knitting seamless hosiery of wool worsted, mermo and cotton mixtures (2 in Illinois and 1 each in Pennsylvama and Maryland). kr^fc^ V^ T^"^^^^ ^ "^^ ^^^^ ^P^ ^^ ^^ ««°^^ ^f tlieir yams and font seamless hosiery, mostly of wool, merino, and cotton mixtures McMgtraSXt^^^^ ' ^^^^ ^ Massachusetts, Rhode Island, P«I^^ Reports show great differences in the percentage of profit earned by hosiery f actones. The fact that a factory hid a loss or made a very small profit may have been due to seveVal cLes such as (a) poor shop management, (6) antiquated machinery, (c poor cost-accounting system, W) poor selling methods, {e) too little care d^ra^Tri^th't '^-^ ^^^ ^t'\^^ ''^'''^' '^^''^^ (^) too much wX drawn from the business by the owner, partnei-s, or officers. its and 18 LTw^^^ '"P""'^^' '' '^^'^ manufacturing prof- and^^Tf?^• ^^^^^^^t^ring profit on net sales was 6.66 per cent, Jer^eit'^tS^^^^ ^'^ ' manufacturing profit of mor^ than 5 r.J^.^. average manufacturing profit on capital employed in business If mi-\\P'' T^' ^^^ 2^ establishments had a maCTctu W p^^^^^^^^ of more than 10 per cent on capital employed in business. 9963''— 15- 33 34 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. SUMMARY. The per cent of manufacturing profit on the investment and the net sales is shown by groups in Tablo 13. Table 13. — Percentages op Manufacturing Profits, by Groups and Combi- nations OP Groups of Establishments, Classiflcation. All mills reporting data Mills making — Seamless hosiery Seamless hosiery and buying all yams Full-fashioned or both full-fashioned and seamless hosiery (East and West). Seamless cotton hosiery (Pennsylvania and New York). Seamless cotton hosiery (South) Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (Pennsylvania). Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (West) Seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South). Seamless hosiery and spinning yarns (Eastand West). Groups. I to VII. II to VII II to VI. I II Ill IV V VI VII Estab- lish- meuts. 73 64 56 9 16 16 11 9 4 Per cent of manu- facturing profit on— Capital em- gloyedin usiness. 11.56 9.60 9.41 15.50 2.95 14.30 6.85 14.68 4.05 10.07 Net sales. 6.66 5.52 5.05 8.92 1.76 7.60 3.83 6.56 2.32 7.08 As shown by the foregoing table, the per cent of manufacturing profit earned by all mills reporting, Groups I to VII, was 11.56 on capital employed in business and 6.66 on net sales. The per cent earned by all mills making seamless hosiery (Groups II to VII) was 9.60 on capital employed in business and 5.52 on net sales. The per cent earned by aU mills making seamless hosiery and buy- ing all yams (Groups II to VI) was 9.41 on capital employed in busi- ness and 5.05 on net sales. The group showing the highest percentage of profit is Group I, composed of mills making fuU-fashioned or full-fashioned and seam- less hosiery, in wliich the percentage was 15.5 on capital emj>loyed in business and 8.92 on net sales. Most of the full-fashioned hosiery manufactured in the United States is made of silk or partly of silk, and moat of the seamless hosiery is made of cotton. Under tariff acts pn^vious to the one that went into effect on October 4, 1913, the rate of duty on cotton hosiery was higher than the rate on silk hosiery. This led to a very rapid increase in the production of seamless cotton hosiery, which resulted in severe competition among domestic manufacturers of that product. The more rapid increase in the manufacture of seamless nosiery than of fuU-fashioned hosiery in tlie United States is probably due to the fact that machinery for seamless hosiery is much less expensive than full-fashioning machinery and to the fact that much less skill is required to o])erate the former than the latter. Of the mills making seamless cotton hosiery, the average percentage of profit earned by the mills in Group III, composed of 16 miUs located in the South, was nearly ^\e times as large as the average percentage earned by the mills in Group II, composed of 15 miUs m Pennsylvania and 1 in New York. This great difference may be accounted for to some extent by the higher wages paid in Pennsyl- vania mills than in southern mills, but may also be explained in 35 part by the fact that, generally speaking, the mills in the South, as well as those in the West, are of more recent construction and are equipped with more modern machinery than are most of the mills in Pennsylvania. Table 13 shows that the profit on capital employed in business was nearly twice as much as the profit on net sales. While some estab- hshments made small percentages of profit on their net sales, they made large percentages of profit on the capital actually invested in the business. This was due to the fact that in some estabhsh- ments the capital was turned over more frequently than in others. The ratio of the net sales to the capital employed is shown in Table 14. Table 14.— Capital Turnover or Ratio of Net Sales, to Capital Employed in THE Business, by Groups and Combinations of Groups op Establishments. Classification. All mills reporting data Mills making- Seamless hosiery Seamless hosiery and buying all yams Full-fashioned or both full-fashioned and seamless hosiery "(East and West) Seamless cotton hosiery ( Pennsylvania and New York)! ....... Seamless cotton hosiery (South) '.'.'.'.'. Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk ( Pennsylvania) .. ......... Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (West) Seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, aiid South) Seamless hosiery, and spiiming yams (East and West)...! ! ! ! ! Groups. itovn. IltoVn. II to VI.. I... II-. III. IV. v.. VI.. VII. Establish- ments. 73 64 56 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 Ratio of net sales to capital. L74 74 86 1.74 1.67 1.88 1.79 2.24 1.75 1.46 The ratio of the average net sales to the capital employed varied from 1.46 in Group VII to 2.24 in Group V, th.e average for all estab- lishments (Groups I to VII) being 1.74. In considering the foregoing tables, it should be understood that the salaries of active officers and of partners were included in the cost of production before profits were figured. Likewise, in the case of an individual owner of an estabhshment, the costs included the esti- mated amount he would have to pay an employee for service such as he himself performed. It is important also to understand that before profits were figured all expenses for selling were included in the cost of production. Furthermore, depreciation was added as an expense before profits and losses were computed. It was calculated on the inventoried value of the machinery and fixtures at the rate Of 5 per cent in full- fashioning mills and 10 per cent in seamless-hosiery mills. Many establishments kept no depreciation account on their books and did not take it into consideration in figuring profits or losses. Of the 73 estabhshments, only 20 had reserves for depreciation. Some establishments which showed on their books profits earned durint^ their last business years showed losses when depreciation was adde3 to other expenses. COST AND PROFIT BY GROUPS OF ESTABLISHMENTS. The data furnished by the 73 establishments reporting show that during their last business year their net sales averaged $370,012 per establishment, and the cost of the goods they sold averaged $345,385. I heir manufacturing profit averaged $24,627 and their final profit $20,927. ; U 36 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. SUMMARY'. 37 Tables 15 and 16 show, by groups and summaries of groups, the average net sales, cost of goods sold, manufacturing profit and final profit, and the percentages of cost based on the total manufacturing and sellmg expense of the establishments during their last business year or period. Table 15.— Net Sales, Cost op Goods Sold, and Manufacturing and Final Profit, by Groups and Combinations op Groups op Establishments. Groups. Estab- lish- ments. Average per estnblishment. Classification. Net sales. Cost of goods sold. Manu- facturing profit. Final profit. All mills reporting data itovn... II to VII. . II to VI... I 73 64 56 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 $370,012 281,433 246,692 999,909 162,685 284,944 229,890 296, 142 364,659 524,618 $345,385 2«Vi.887 2;{4,228 910, 704 159,819 2rt.S,288 221,086 276, 701 356,201 487,502 •24,627 15,546 12,464 89,205 2,866 21,656 8,804 19,441 8,458 :57,116 Mills making- Seamless hosiery $20, 927 Seamless hosiery and buying all yarns. Full-fashioned , or both full-fashioned 12, .'>99 9,505 80,148 O500 18,701 7,599 14,a56 5,713 34,256 and seamless hosiery (East and West). Seamless cotton hosiery (Pennsyl- sylvania and New York). Seamless cotton hosiery (South) Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (Pennsylvania). Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk II Ill IV V (West). Seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South). Seamless hosiery and spinning yarns (East and West). VI VII o Loss. Table 16.— Percentages op Average Costs, by Specified Items and by Groups OP Establishments, Based on the Total Man ufacti ring and Selling Expense. Groups. Estab- lish- lish- ments. I'er cent of total cost of goods nuuiufactured. Classification. Raw material. Direct labor. Indirect labor. Factory expense. Admin- istrative expense. Selling expense. All mills reporting data Mills making- Seamless hosiery I to VII... II to VII.. II to VI... I 73 64 56 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 52.82 53.^7 55. 15 51. 35 52. 99 58. 52 51. S9 46. 85 70.25 47. 51 24.73 22.69 21.83 29.35 25.28 21.22 26.96 17.76 15.68 25.75 4.38 4.37 3.91 4.41 4.17 4.15 5.16 3.33 1.67 6.01 5.47 5.60 5.34 5.17 6.28 5.80 4.68 4.69 4.76 6.62 3.20 3.54 3.59 2.43 3.04 3.57 3.86 4.51 2.52 3.34 9.40 Seamless hosiery and buying all yarns. Full-fashioned or both 10.33 10.18 full-fashioned and seamless hosiery (East and West). Seamless cotton hosiery II 7.29 (Pennsylvania and New York). Seamless cotton hosiery (South). Seamless hosiery of cot- ton and silk (Pennsyl- vania). Seamless hosiery of cot- Ill IV V 8.24 6.74 7.45 ton and silk (West). Seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South). Seamless hosiery, and spinning yarns (East and West). VI VII 22.86 5.12 10.87 Success in the hosiery industry depends largely upon the good judgment of the manufacturer in buying cotton, wool, cotton yarns, woolen yarns, or silk yarns. Other factors of success are the possession of sufiicient capital, modern factt)ry equipment, efficient factory management, and the efficiency of the selhng organization. It is practicallv impossible to trace statistically the effect of each of these reasons for successful business, but a study of the percentages of the item of cost of the product, as shown by tables in the body of this report, will, at least to some extent, indicate whether or not the general management of an establishment is efficient. For good business reasons an estabhshment may have a laro-er proportionate expense than the average for materials, for direct labor, and for indirect labor, and many estabhshments have found it profitable to spend more than the average for seUing — that is, to pay higher salaries or commissions for salesmen of unusual ability — but if the percentages for many items are much greater than the average of simdar establishments, the profits, if any, will be below that of the average. It should, however, not be assumed that an estabhshment whose proportion of expenditure for labor was less than that of other estab- lishments paid lower salaries or wages to its employees than did the others. On the contrary, the earnings of individual employees might be greater in an establishment with a low percentage of labor cost because of the fact that they were more skilled than ordinary employees, or because superior shop arrangements or better manage- ment enabled them to turn out a larger product per worker than could be done by workers in other factories. Among the 73 establishments that reported data there were large variations in the percentages of cost of production and the percentages of profit. Of the 73 estabhshments, 11 made a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent on net sales and 18 did business at a loss. Of the 11 establishments wdth a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent, the percentages for direct labor of 7 were higher and of 4 were lower than those of their respective groups or of the general average. Of the 18 establishments having losses, the percentages for direct labor of 13 were higher and of 5 were lower than those of their respec- tive groups or of the general average. COST AND PBOFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. From many of the establishments that made reports details were obtained with regard to the cost of producing specific styles of hosiery. Manufacturers, even those that are most unsystematic in cost account- ing, are always able to tell what is the cost of the direct labor in a dozen pairs of hose, a dozen being the trade unit of production. They can easily do this, because practically all direct labor operations are performed by pieceworkers. The manufacturer also can easily teU the quantity and cost of the material that is used in making a dozen pairs of any style. The ''overhead'' charges on all units specified in this report were computed according to a uniform method, on the basis of the over- head expenses of the establishment during its last busmess year, as shown by the estabhshment schedule. I 38 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. SUMMARY. 39 Some establishments have such crude systems for cost finding that they do not know exactly, or even approximately, their profit or loss on certain styles. Such unsystematic estabhshmouts may continue for a long time to sell particular styl{»s of hose at a loss without know- ing it. Some establishments, however, knowing acciu-ately what a certain style costs, will sell it on a small margin of profit, or even at a loss, for the purpose of attracting custom for mon^ profitable styles. An establishment may find it necessary to carry a complete line of styles in order to meet the demands of its customers and to hold its trade, and may consider it good business poUcy to sell at or below cost certain styles to customc^rs who will buy higher priced goods on which a good profit is realized. In examining the data relating to the cost of the units specified in this report one is struck with the gr(mt differences in the profits on the various grades of hosiery. These differences occur on hosic^ry of the same grade, and even on hosiery of practically the same grade made by the same estabhshment. table 17 shows the average per- centages of manufacturing profit on ladies' hosiery of high, medium, and low grades. Table 17.— Percentages op Manufacturixg Profits on High. Medium, and Low Grades op Hosiery, Based on the Average Net Price per Dozen Pairs Sold to Retailers. Description, Ladies' full-fashioned hose. . . Ladies' seamless cotton hose . High grade. a 15 21 25,17 Medium grade. ^> 11. 83 14.61 Low grade. c d 2. 72 4.70 a One style of silk and 3 of silk and cotton. b Mercerized cotton. r Cotton. d Loss, The percentages of profit on the grades of full-fashioned hosiery for which data were secured were not so large as tlie percentages of profit on seamless hosiery for which data were secured, although the establishment tables show that the mills reporting which made full-fashioned hosiery earned a greater average percentage of profit than the mills reporting which made seamless hosiery. The competition with foreign-made hosiery is almost entirely on low-priced full-fashioned hosiery. Tliis low-priced f)roduct is made of cotton, and the duty on it varies from 30 to 50 per cent ad valorem according to value. Medium and high priced full-fashioned hosiery is made of silk or mostly of silk and mercerized cotton and the duty of 50 per cent on such a product, covering both the expensive silk material and labor, is sufficient to exclude foreign competition. It will be observed that the percentage of profit on the ladies' seamless cotton hose was very much higher on the high grades than on the medium grades, and also very much higher on the medium grades than on the low grades. MANUFACTUEING CONDITIONS. A long-established custom compels retailers to sell hosiery at fixed prices— 25 cents, 50 cents, $1, etc. The public, educated to these prices, looks with suspicion on odd-priced goods. The standard retail prices are a great handicap to the manufacturer. He must always figure his cost of production with these fixcid retail prices in view. ^ During recent years the expenses of retailers for rent, salaries, advertising, and delivery have largely increased. Not being able to increase the prices at which hosiery is sold, retailers must purchase goods cheaper than they formerly did. The jobber who sells to the retailer must, to make his former profit, sell cheaper than he did formerly, and therefore must buy cheaper from the manufacturer. But the cost of manufacturing has been increased by the higher cost of labor and materials, by the demand for finer goods, by the neces- sity for constantly purchasing machinery, and by the enactment of workingmen's compensation acts and stricter child-labor laws. While the expenses of manufacturers have thus largely increased, they are compelled to sell goods cheaper than formerly. This condition leads to cut-throat competition among them. Many of them believe that they would be greatly benefited if hosiery were retailed at odd amounts. There is a tendency toward larger factories in the hosiery and knit- goods industries. As shown by the Census of Manufactures, there were 1,006 such factories in 1899, and they had 83,691 employees, an average of 83 employees per factory, while 10 years later there were 1,374 factories, with 129,275 employees, an average of 94 employees per factory. The table giving the percentages of profit of the estabUshments reporting in this investigation shows that there were no decided differences in these percentages between the smaller and the larger establishments. In former years, when competition was less keen, many hosiery factories which started on a very limited capital were successful. At that time profits were suflB.cient to stand the enormous drain due to cancellations, inefficient methods, etc. At the present time, when profits have been reduced, due to competition resulting from great expansion of the business, there is absolute need of putting manu- facturing establishments on an economical and efficient basis. For- merly a Dadly located, poorly managed, inefficient plant could make a profit. Now all is changed, and the manufacturer of hosiery, in order to attain success, must have a mill equipped with up-to-date machinery, managed in an economical and scientific maimer, with a system of cost accounting which will enable him at all times to know the true condition of his business and the actual cost of every article produced. SIMPLIFIED COST ACCOUNTING. The hosiery and knit-goods industries in the United States suffer from the lack of an adequate cost-finding system to determine the actual costs of certain grades of the production. There is a variety of methods of calculating the charge for general expense, and many of them are very crude. This leads to unintelligent price making and ruinous competition. A very few factories have, at considerable expense, installed cost- finding systems, while some others seem to have almost no system at all. Some manufacturers who have adopted a really scientific cost-finding system have learned that they could not sell certain grades of goods at prices based on costs found by the system, because competitors who calculated costs by an imperfect method would imdersell them. Most manufacturers of hosiery and knit goods admit that the lack of an accurate and uniform method of cost finding is a drawback which seriously interferes with the prosperity of the industry. The 40 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. SUMMARY. 41 matter has been discussed in the trade journals and in the annual paeetings of the trade associations as one of the questions of greatest importance to the industry, but so far without residts. The National Association of Hosiery and Underwetir Manufacturers has considered the matter for years", but has been unable to agree on a standard for distributing overhead expense. An address on ^'Operating costs and economies/' read before the annual conv 19. 34 4.17 29.24 21.93 Ml.54 3.35 6 4.44 6 1.97 6 3.89 6.51 6 1.53 7.57 .15 6 5.90 10.59 16.64 6 1.74 22.90 6 25. 97 10.64 6 6.79 12.82 7.76 85.55 9.79 18.19 12.35 Net sales. 10.38 10.84 3.79 2.00 6 5.78 12.46 6.33 16.75 4.50 8.02 2.42 6 1.04 2.21 3.30 4.40 6.79 .86 6 5.56 .93 10.04 9.86 6 6.45 2. 6 2. 6 1. 07 97 00 6 3.27 6.31 6 1.99 4.22 .06 6 2.72 6.85 8.45 6 2.70 13.23 6 10.38 7.25 6 5.54 8.35 3.69 19.91 4.86 8.40 6.56 e Iteports for 11 months. / Reports for 2 years. CAPITAL, PROFIT, AND TURNOVER. 57 Table 25. — ^Percentage op Manufacturing Profit and Final Profit, Based on Capital Employed in Business and on Net Sales by Establishments AND Groups of Establishments— <^ontinued. I'er cent of manufac- turing profit on — Per cent of final profit on- Establishments and groups. Capital em- ployed in Dusiness. Net sales. Capital em- ployed in business. Net sales. Mills making seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (Penn- sylvania), Group IV: Establishment No. 42 16.95 .23 O.90 5.20 9.40 4.03 13.37 3.22 7.28 30.08 06.98 16.12 .25 ol.OO 6.85 7.67 2.34 6.45 2.16 4.31 11.19 03.21 16.95 0.98 02.94 4.56 8.60 3.40 12.81 2.76 6.88 28.81 08.45 15.12 Establishment No. 43 1.07 Establishment No. 44 03.28 Establishment No. 45 5.12 Establishment No. 46 7.02 Establishment No. 47 1.97 Establishment No. 48 6.18 Establi-shment No. 49 1.85 Establishment No. 50 4.08 Establishment No. 51 10.72 Establishment No. 62 03. 89 Average 6.86 3.83 5.91 3.31 Mills making seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (West), Group V: Establishment No. 63 12.03 02.53 11.49 6.53 6.43 16.91 7.62 a 4. OS 29.97 13. 10 04.54 6.33 6.10 2.48 4.72 5.81 02. 28 10.11 12.03 04. 69 9.79 4.50 04.77 16.91 4.02 06. 60 26.13 13. 10 Establishment No. 64 08.43 Establishment No. 55 5.40 Establishment No. 56 3.51 Establishment No. 57 02.17 Establishment No. 58 4.72 Establishment No. 69 3.06 Establishment No. 60 03. 69 Establishment No. 61 8.82 Average 14.68 6.56 11.30 5.05 Mills making seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South), Group VI: Establishment No. 62 7.82 6.79 9.72 1.67 6.86 4.17 2.21 1.30 7.82 5.21 2.12 1.67 6.86 Establishment No. 63 3.20 Establishment No. 64 .48 Establishment No. 65 1.30 Average 4.05 2.32 2.74 1.57 Mills making seamless hosiery and spinning yarns (East and West), Group VII: Establishment No. 66 a 7. 11 4.08 1.73 4.26 a8.23 18.34 19.60 6.53 2.86 8.20 01.12 2.64 09. 58 9.59 12.69 4.80 07.11 2.81 05.20 .68 011.20 17.37 19.15 6.48 2.86 Establishment No. 67 5.64 Establishment No. 68 03.37 Establishment No. 69 .42 Establishment No. 70 13.04 Establishment No. 71 9.09 Establishment No. 72 12.40 Establishment No. 73 4.75 Average 10.07 7.08 9.29 6.63 o Loss. The foregoing table shows that of the 73 establishments from which data were secured, 18 had manufacturing losses and 23 had final losses. The item of interest on borrowed money accounted principally for the difference between manufacturing losses and final losses. The table shows also that of the 73 establishments reporting, 27 earned during their last business periods 10 per cent or more of profit on their capital employed in business, the highest per cent oeing 85.55 (establishment No. 39) in two years, or at the rate of 42.78 per cent per year. Considering manufacturing and final profits and losses on net sales, it is seen that the greatest percentage of profit of any establishment was 19.91 (establishment No. 39) and the largest percentage of loss was 13.10 (No. 53). Thirty-one had a manufacturing profit of over 5 per cent on net sales. ' ti ■N 58 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. The fact that an estabhshment made a very sma]l profit or had a loss may have been due to several causes, such as (a) poor factory management, (b) poor cost-finding system, (c) poor selling methods, (d) too little care in extending credits, (e) lack of sufficient capital, (/) too much withdrawn from the business by the owner, partnei*s, or officers. PROFITS EARNED BY LARGE AND SMALL ESTABLISHMENTS. There is a difference of opinion as to whether large or small factories are more efficiently conducted with reference to economy of produc- tion. In the larger factories efficiency systems have effected certain economies, but in some of these factories the overhead expenses are disproportionately large. The establishments in each group sliown in the preceding table were arranged in the order of the amounts of net sales, the establishment with th(^ smallest sales first and the*, one with the largest last. An examination of the table shows that there were no decided differences in the percentages of profit between the smaller and the larger establishments in each group. PROFITS OF FULL-FASHIONING MILLS. Group I is composed of 9 mills that make full-fashioned hosiery. Full-fasnioned hosiery exclusively is made by 4 of these and both full-fashioned and seamless hosiery by 5. For pur])oses of compari- son, the data for this group in the preceding table are divided as sliown in Tables 26 and 27. Table 26. — ^Per Cent of ^Manutacturino Profit and Finai- Profit, by Estab- lishments Making Full- Fashioned Hosiery Exclusively, Per cent of manu- facturing profit on — Per cent of final profit oil — EstabUshment No. Capital em- ployed in business. Net sales. Capital em- ployed in business. Net sales. 2 38.24 5.83 29.19 28.79 11.17 3.79 13.32 7.27 37.09 5.83 27.30 25.08 10.84 3 3.79 6 12.46 7 6.33 Average 24.50 8.54 22.33 7.79 Table 26 includes 4 estabhshments making full-fashioned hosiery exclusively, and the product of 3 of these was made entirely of sUk and the product of 1 was made of sUk or cotton, or of both silk and cotton. Table 27. — Per Cent op Manufacturing Profit and Final Profit, by Estab- lishments Making Both Full-Fashioned and Seamless Hosiery. Establishment No. lo 4 5 8 : 9 c Average a Report for 6 mouths. b Loss, Per cent of manufac- turing profit on- - Capital employed in business. 6.96 5.03 b7.44 23.08 9.75 13.23 Net sales. 12.83 2.44 b 4. 59 16. 75 6.42 9.11 Per cent of final profit on— Caoital employed iu business. 5.63 4.11 1*9.37 23.08 6.83 11.80 Net sales. 10.38 2.00 6 5.78 16.75 4.50 8.13 CAPITAL, PROFIT, AND TURNOVER. 59 Table 27 includes 5 establishments making both full-fashioned and seamless hosiery, and the product of 4 of them was made of silk or cotton, or of both silk and cotton, and the product of 1 was made of cotton or wool, or of both cotton and wool. The average percentage of manufacturing profit on net sales was sUghtly smaller with the establishments making full-fashioned hosiery exclusively than with establishments making both full-fashioned and seamless hosiery, but the former class of establishments had a much higher percentage of profit on their investment. These facts appear in the following condensed Table 28 : Table 28. — Percentages of Profit of Establishments Making Full-Fashioned Hosiery Compared with Those of Establishments Making Both Full-Fash- ioned AND Seamless Hosiery. Establishments making- Full-fashioned hosiery exclusively Both full-fashioned and seamless hosierj-. Estab- lish- ments. Average percentage of manu facturing profit on — Capital emyiloyed in business, 24.50 13.23 Net sales. 8.54 9.11 TUBNOVEB OF CAPITAL. An examination of Table 25 shows that while some estabhshments made small percentages of profit on their net sales they made large percentages of profit on the capital employed in their business. Tms was due to the fact that in some estabhshments the capital was turned over more frequently than in others. The same table also shows large differences between the groups with regard to capital employed m the business as compared with net sales. These dinerences are shown more conspicuously in Table 29. Table 29. — Capital Turnover or Ratio of Net Sales to Capital Employed in the Business, by Groups of Establishments. Classification. (1 roups. Estab- lish- ments. Capital employed in busiiaess. Net sales. Ratio of net sales to capital em- ployed. All mills reporting data itovn lltoVlI IltoVl I 73 04 56 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 $15,548,885 10,368.027 7,118.137 5,180,858 1,554,777 2,423.413 1,414,023 1,191.542 834,382 2,949,890 $27,010,893 18.011.709 i;i,Sl4.7t>8 8,999.184 2.002,953 4.559.099 2.528.796 2.f.«.5.282 1,458,03(> 4.196,942 1.74 Mills making- Seamless hosicrv 1.74 Seamless hosiery and buying all yams . . . Full-fashioned or both full-ftishioned and 1.86 1.74 seamless hosiery (East and West). Seamless cotton hosiery (Pennsylvania and New York). Seamless cotton hosiery (South) II 1.67 Ill IV 1.88 Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk (Pennsylvania). Seamless hosiery of cotton and silk(West). Seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South). Seamless hosiery and spinning yams (East and West). 1.79 * V 2.24 VI 1.75 VII 1.46 e Report fur 13 months. 60 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. By this table it is seen that the turnover of caoital was much greater in some groups than in others. The ratio that the average net sales were to the capital employed in business varied from 1.46 in Group VII to 2.24 in Group V, tne average for aU establishments (Groups I to VII) being 1.74. PEOFITS OF MILLS USING DIFFERENT MATERIALS. Hosiery is made of cotton by all establishments in Groups II and III, of cotton and silk by all establishments in Grou])s IV and V, and of cotton and wool by all establishments in Group VI. The estab- lishments making full-fashioned hosii^ry (Group I) and the estab- lishments making seamless hosiery and spinning yarn (Group VII) use different materials. The percentages of profit of esta])lishments, arranged according of the materials used, are shown in Table 30. Table 30. — Percentage op Profit of Establishments Classified by thk Ma- terials That They Used. Estab- lish- ments. Percentage of man- ufacturing itroflt based on — Percentage of final ])rofit based on— Product made of— Capital em- ployed in business. Net sales. Cai)ital em- ployed in business. Net sales. Cotton: Group II. — Seamless 16 16 2.95 14.30 1.76 7.60 «0.51 12.35 a 0.31 Group III. — Seamless 6.56 Total 32 9.86 5.48 7.33 4.017 Wool: Group "Vll. — Seamless, mills spimung yam.. . 2 3.a5 4.46 1.89 2.77 Cotton and wool: Group I. — Full fashioned and seamless 1 4 2 5.03 4.05 a 5. 99 2. i4 2.32 a 5. 46 4.11 2.74 «9.13 2.00 Group VI. — Seamless 1.57 Group Vll.— Seamless, mills spinning yarn 8.33 Total 7 2.22 1.31 .58 .35 Silt: Grfflip T, — y^^^^ fashinnpifl 2 31.04 12.71 29.30 12.00 Cotton and silk: Group I. — Full fashioned 2 4 11 9 20.73 13.77 6.85 14. 08 6.66 9.75 3.83 6.56 18.32 12.31 5.91 1L30 5.99 Group I. — Full fashioned and seamless 8.72 GrouD IV. — Seamless 3.31 Group V. — Seamless 5.05 Total 26 13.20 7.41 n.43 6.42 Cotton, silk, and wool: Group VII.— Seamless, mills •jpinning yam 4 12.51 8.20 12.04 7.89 All establishments 73 11.56 6.66 9.82 5.66 a Loss. In the order of highest percentages of manufacturing profit, ])ased on net sales, the average percentages of establishments using different materials were as follows: Silk, 12.71; cotton, silk, and wool, 8.20; cotton and silk, 7.41; cotton, 5.48; wool, 4.46; cotton and wool, 1.31; all materials, 6.66. CAPITAL, PROFIT, AND TURNOVER. TARIFF RATES ON HOSIERY OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS. 61 As shown by Table 21, the average percentage of profit of the 9 establishments in Group I was considerably higher than the average in any other group. This can not be explained on the ground of the difference in duty on hosiery made of different materials, because the manufacturers oi hosiery made of cotton, or of wool, or of cotton and wool mixed, received the benefit of a higher rate of duty than did the manufacturers of hosiery made of silk, or of which silk was the com- ponent material of chief value. Most of the reports from hosiery establishments were for the year ending December 31, 1913. The new tariff on silk and cotton goods went into effect October 4, 1913; the new tariff on woolen goods January 1, 1914. Under no tariff has there been a different rate of duty on full-fashioned hosiery from the rate on seamless hosiery. On articles made of silk, or of which silk was the component mate- rial of chief value, the duty under the old tariff was 60 per cent ad valorem; under the new tariff it is 50 per cent. On hosiery made of cotton the duty was and is variable according to grades. Under the old tariff, during the period from October 1, 1912, to June 30, 1913, the imports of cotton hosiery for consumption amounted to $1,877,809.24, on which $1,302,277.73 duty was col- lected, which was equivalent to an average ad valorem rate of 69.35 per cent; or 9.35 per cent more than the ad valorem rate of duty on knitted articles made of silk, or of which silk was the component material of chief value, under the old tariff, which was 60 per cent. Under the new tariff, during the period from October 4, 1913, to June 30. 1914, the imports of cotton hosiery for consumption amounted to $2,561,301.47, on which $1,142,404.53 duty was collected, which was equivalent to an average rate of 44.60 ad valorem, or 5.40 per cent less than the ad valorem rate of duty on knitted articles made of silk, or of which silk was the component material of chief value, under the new tariff, which is 50 per cent. During the whole calendar year 1913 woolen goods were subject to the rates of duty of the old tariff. Under the old tariff woolen hosiery was not separately classified, but the rate of duty on knitted articles of wearing apparel composed wholly or in part of wool was 44 cents per pound plus 60 per cent ad valorem. During the calendar year 1913 the imports of such wearing apparel, except shawls, amounted to $373,903.41, on which $341,331.87 duty was collected, which was equivalent to an average ad valorem rate of 91.29, or 31.29 more than the ad valorem rate of duty on knitted articles made of silk, or of which silk was the component material of chief value, under the old tariff, which was 60 per cent. From the foregoing the following facts appear: 1. By the 9 establishments that manufactured full-fashioned hosiery (Group I), the product of 8 of which was hosiery of silk, or partly of silk, a higher percentage of manufacturing profit was earned on net sales than by the establishments in any of the groups that manufactured seamless hosiery of materials other than silk. 2. From January 1, 1913, to October 4, 1913, the establishments that manufactured seamless cotton hosiery had the advantage of 9.35 per cent more duty than did the establishments that manufac- tured hosiery of silk, or of which silk was the component material of chief value. " ■ 62 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. 3. During the whole of the calendar year 1913, the establishments that manufactured hosiery composed wholly or in ])art of wool (all of which manufactm-ed seamless hosiery, except one establishment) had the advantage of 31.29 per cent more duty than did the estab- lishments that manufactured hosiery of silk, or of wliich silk was the component material of chief value. 4. The higher percentage of profit earned by the 9 establishments that manufactured full-fashioned hosiery (Group I), of which 8 used silk, was not on account of a Idgher Protection under the tariff. 5. It is also true that practi(5aUy all of the imports of hosiery have been and are of full-fashioned hosiery. 6. These facts inchcate that in the ostabHshments reporting, those which manufactured full-fashioned hosiery had more efficient factory organization or better selling methods than did th(^ establishments which manufactured seamless hosiery. Further details in regard to profit wiU be found in this report under the heads of ^'Cost and profit by establishments and groups," ''Cost and profit by specified miits/' and ''SeUing methods. CHAPTER II. COST ABTD PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. The schedules used for the collection of data show the various items of the cost of production. The principal divisions of costs were for raw material, direct labor, indirect labor, factory expense, administrative expense, and selling expense. Each of the divisions, except that for materials, was subdivided into specified items. The salaries of active partners or officers, or the estimated amounts that individual owners would have paid for services which they themselves performed, were entered under indirect labor, adminis- trative expense, or selling expense, according to the character of the services rendered. In presenting the data secured from the 73 estabhshments the actual amounts of their net sales and of their expenses for a year are not shown by individual estabhshments, because by such figures some establishments might possibly be identified, and the object was to avoid disclosing any facts that were given in confidence. The net sales, the items of cost, and the profit are shown by percentages, according to estabhshments, and by both averages and percentages, according to groups. COST AND PROFIT BASED ON NET SALES. The data derived from the estabhshment schedules, reduced to averages and percentages, are shown in a series of tables which follow. Table 31 shows, by groups of estabhshments, the average net sales, the items of average cost, and the average profit or loss on net sales per establishment. \] 64 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 65 so o I O '^ CO 3 « 02 WW O O CO H A i-9 ^'bM Ol 00 lis 3-^ a CO TO S 03 Ti. r* *^ ^> 25 5 C «CL e8 o o 2 a> ocQ g gel t^gtSa ,2 o 2 aJ O .s^^S* ^ 2(2: § ^ 2 OQ «o ^ o^ s S ^ 5s 05 SI S a M be "3 p o J§ 2-5 s to" §^ o o §8 s ffi s CO 10 »ooo CleO CO >o CO 00 00 ■^ 00 s «ooo i-eo 8 IN'* ^««o to oeo cnToT £3 00 •J. CO f-Too" OS 10 CO-* eo 00 ■^•oo §co 000 CO eo o CO ^00 1-1 ■<»< t^ oeoiosjes QO» QM >>Qeo ooo ( ■«< CO 1 > to • C^wt-V t-H o i^«oe>» c>i eo i^ TT CO co'i-To ci §t^ O 05 cC t^ * M c< "5eo c^co eoc* > o .-I es eoo t6c9 u^m 00c -♦■ » SiCOO ■V CO 35 IN 15 CO "5 coeo 00 t^O>ceo IN.-1 OiO i~-,-i J5co ?j: ;s?*^! o ■* coeT C^l R l«C p"?? eo 1-t t- t- «0 i-H ■* t-coeo^ •^ooeoeo^ od"»oo6"i-roo *io5ieoQC 05C0 «0 lO »fl C4 f-1 iQ rH CO CM »0 Q 0> t>- OS .-I 00 CO 10 CO St>-05-^ CO eoi-i coo ■^c^Tt^ CO oc A r^oo^*!-! ooc»r>-»{j •* «o Nco 05-^ 00 CO -» — CO 00* V t>- CD CI 00 CO pTef i-tNco c CO 00 1-1 r-^ O 00 1» cr 3228! 1-1 A a> 1-t I OS '* 00 .-< CD eo OiN ^■weoobes •00t»» C4 I O-^ lOi-i l-tl-td 00 COWi-l :§§ »Ht* §! _ , .coeo»H i^C»OS00i-l Neo»o eo CONt^Cl t^OCc 05 05C >C0iO00« t^iO I {J r^ 1-1 ift Q CD ICMi-tOcOOiS i-Tefco^ t>-a>eoic»oe*Q»^r^ 8AcpOs00i-tiAiCf^ oo»-»^t^t» i-ToTiOi-r »-teo»^ toeQitir-^eoines'^ci t^»C»OS0503Qi^i^ e««co»H.-iT»eo c»ooo tnoto 1-1 1-1 1-t 00^ «ot>-»n CD t^ 1-1 r^^v CO eo I s I .a s tn CO 2; a 03 (4 c 5 .i4 I Si I §1 **' g' CT Im flj b, O mposed of 15 mills in Peimsyl- vania and 1 in New York. This group also had the smallest average manufacturing profit, and had an average final loss, ac< counted for by an extraordinarily large interest account. <* For the purposes of comparison, the percentages of the items of cost and the percentages of profit aro shown in the condensed tables which follow. Table 33 shows, by groups and combinations of groups of establishments, percentages based on the averages of net sales, cost, and profit. o See per cent for interest in this group shown in Table 33. I o n Q < CO p o Pi o >* to < m » :z o Q H < w m m O o fH o QD H Z, » so M n < H m Q < 1^ o as o go W o 6< O OS »— ( Q O < > O m O < :^ CO CO u CQ Eh QD O M < COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISH MEXTS. 67 a M) "S a ^ o 00 oj 2 ovi « o S CQ ^ M CQ M o ^ CO 03 « CQ CO T3 fl S 3 w rti Art Q O a CQ "Sr'. S d ^^ ^ CO ^ /-^HH S o 5 o CQ w^ CO a^g.2>^D ;o S ® 3 c rtr*? S c S§55-S^2 Oi CO U5 ago CQ S z X, bo 2 2 ^« 00 8 8 ^ 8 iC lO 3 00 CO 8^ OiCO o »o 8 OQO ^ ■ ^ ■ ^8 oo( N X 8 N 00 CO 00 CO -HO "50 ffO Soo 00 -H •CO CO C«'^J« OC'OO 'iM' 52 iQ CO CO C<5 'cO o 82 00 00 eo ^J C2 '^ 1"^ ^* Ci * >-i " 1-5 CO "3 SCO CO ?« 15 ■* coeoco eotjoooco lo of) CO t-t CO > CO CO •* c« )t-*OC<»CO 1-1 CM ICO 00 CO es I -t CO— I 00 •^ X CO CO ^ CV| s o> ^ CO — H 10 00 -" 00 c»coc5ic«co .-< 'c>» ■ * R 1000 • cooo 8S CO c* t^ r^ o o CO ■*CDO-H00 8SS2S 'O s g=^ «fl ^88 OCOO COr-. ^3S § u s. 2'oS I . . . ^ a (St 800 osr- 00 a a Noo o 9 Ci o a 3 Sg g8S £ ^S S8S 5 S A 93 3 08 S 3 CO as •• a :;: 03 .^ 2 « O S3 CO "3 o •a o 03.2 CO .2^ 03 >. C *«"3 £•- fe Co ® «.J5S u 08 sS o a; o c ._g o o es CO 73 t? l-i u. .-^_C3 -S'ea'eS gcQco o .^ ® _ - 'I' eS ® 2 - c ^® c * X - c "« 2 o 68 THE HOSIERY IXDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 69 o Q n o < (^ o « n < O -< C3 §5 3 I H 2; H n as M PQ H 00 o o Q H H 111 QQ o M o o O H O O O M H Ph CO CO » pq -"J T3 H (->-u *2ta|^ CQ W 3 O 8 MT3 efl 2 O m * P, o o ^5 CO C M^ CO ■52 « §.2 ft g*eT3 3 S 3 S O r> <» rt O es O O 5 CO ^ S o a> e fr o CQ r',?®r'5 ■gt<^r«Ccn-tJi— < tf CO Q g 0*~^ 73 S '-J fe S"^ CQ -^-a^^ en m*^ eS 95,-05- S £ '-'hh § -»■ lO Ol r^ o 8528 — 4>00 C< ' ic OS oi lO CO o^eo e>i ■ ff o cv« eo ffo «0 <-! 00 ■ O «0 U5 t-- T»< CO i-iosesi s eo rf CO p o c5 C5 c5 h- 05 1(5 • • • O N eo e^a5t^t^t-.cpTt<- • ••'••■•• OS ^ M IC -^o> 05 l^ >ec 01 o 00 Oi«5 000^ igoic< « CO QO »^ b- ocoicocMCMujojosin dcoioooeoNt^cJi ' eo ^oeoooTfo-^co i(N CO eo 00 C4 ?5cOMOO'«*Tf" coco ■^ Ui »o OJ OS eo 06 CO CO "J Oioeo «OU5 0» I30< OSCOQ ^eow eO'^P* OS C5 0>5 "* «CCO aoccJ'H 00 •2 .3 § I o to C « ft 9 a» . ffl © •FN ■(-> •§ ^= CO © OS Sfe -g S e9 03 43 o .3 MO f I a B to r ee if o T3 " 3 *^ o © *■ c © © © bo,i:.33 a e *V - ^^ --H d © fe CO s 06 OS § OS e4 to CO CO s K 10 s •I 8 4 CO s "^ QO s 38 ^ »0 ' r-3 •no 00 o irj l-H s o o CO 1^ to s 'J8 $ ♦ G o CO § cog P O Ml ^1 J o GQ « © C ♦e g 3 © rt a CO® « O be o o CO to bC ■4J to O — * is 23 2 o ©•m -M 3 O © S3 23 •3 § III ff to •3 3-3 Sl|2 e3 .3 PERCENTAGES OF SPECIFIED ITEMS OF COST. Examining tlie average percentages, in Table 34, of all establish- jnents that reported, and considering net sales as the base, or 100 per cent, the cost of the raw materials was 46.74 per cent, the cost of goods manufactured 88.49 per cent, the manufacturing profit 6.66 per cent, and the final profit 5.66 per cent. Table 34. — Percentage op Average Cost of Each Specified Item and Profits, Based on Net Sales, by Combinations op Groups of Establishments. Items. Number of establishments . Net sales All establish- ments report- ing data, Groups I to VII. 73 100.00 Raw material Direct labor Indirect labor Factory expense Admiiustrative expense. Selling expense 46.74 21.89 3.88 4.84 2.83 8.31 Mills making full-fashioned or full-fash- ioned and seamless hosiery (East and West), Group I. 100.00 41.88 23.93 3.59 4.21 1.99 5.95 Total manufacturing and selling. Cost of goods purchased Deduct increase in stock of goods 88.49 6. .50 1.65 81.55 11.05 1.52 Cost of goods sold . 93.34 91.08 Manufacturing profit Miscellaneous income (add to profit) . Interest (deduct from profit) Final profit. 6.66 .02 1.02 5.66 8.92 ,96 8.02 Mills making seamless hosiery, Groups II to vTi. 64 100.00 49.17 20.86 4.02 5.15 3.25 9.50 Mills buying all yarns and making seamless hosiery. Groups II to 56 100.00 51.56 20.40 3.66 4.99 3.36 9.52 91.95 4.23 1.70 93.49 4.36 2.90 94.48 5.52 .04 1.08 4.48 94.95 5.05 .05 1.25 3.85 LARGEST PROFITS MADE ON FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY. Comparing the average percentages of the mills making full-fash- ioned or bot^ full-f ashionea and seamless hosiery (Group I) with the average percentages of the mills making seamless hosiery (Groups II to Vli) and with miUs making seamless hosiery and buying all of their yarns (Groups II to VI), it will be observed that in (xroup I the percentages for materials and for cost of goods sold were lower and the percentages for both manufacturing and final profit higher. In Table 35 the differences are shown by groups. n 70 TABLfi 35. THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. -Percentages op Average Costs of Specified Items and Profits Based on Net Sales, by Groups of Establihhments. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 71 MUIs mak- ing full- fashioned or both full-fash- ioned and seamless hosiery (East and West), Group I. Mills making seamless hosiery. Items. Cotton (Pennsyl- vania and New York), Group II. Cotton (South), Group III. Cotton and silk (Pennsyl- vania), Group IV. Cotton and silk (West), Group V. Wool and cotton mixed (Kast, West, and South), Group VI. Wool and cotton mixed, mills spin- ning yarns (Kastand West), GroupVII. Number of establish- ments q ^c 16 11 9 4 S» 1 xu 1 8 Net sales 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Raw material 41.88 23.93 3.59 4.21 1.99 5.95 50.88 24.28 4.01 6.02 2.92 7.92 50.00 18.14 3.64 4.96 3.05 5.75 51.74 26.88 5.14 4.67 3.85 7.42 44.98 17.05 3.30 4. SO 4.33 21.94 69.33 15.47 1.65 4.70 2.49 5.05 Direct labor 41.29 Indirect labor. 22.38 Factory expense 5.22 Administrative expense. Selling expense 5.67 2.90 9.45 Total manufactur- ing and selling... Cost of goods purchased . Deduct increase in stock of goods 81.55 11.05 1.52 96.03 4.56 2.35 85.44 9.35 3.39 99.70 .18 3.71 96.00 1.90 4.55 98.69 86.91 3.79 1.01 Add decrease in stock of goods 2.22 Cost of goods sold.. 91.08 98.24 92 40 96.17 93.44 97.68 92.92 Manufacturing profit. Miscellaneous income (add to profit) 8.92 1.76 .24 2.31 7.80 3.83 6.56 2.32 7.08 Interest (deduct from profit) .90 1.04 .52 1.51 .75 .55 Final profit 8.02 a.31 6 56 3.31 5.05 1.57 6. .53 a Loss. The variations in the percentages for raw materials sliown in the seven groups may be accounted for or partly accounted for by one or more of several causes— the different kinds of materials used, different quahties of the product, different methods of operation, and whether the product was of heavy or light weight, for winter or summer wear. It will be observed that the average percentages for direct labor are highest in Group IV and lowest in Group VI ; the selUng cost is high- est in Group V and lowest in Group VI ; the expense for interest highest in Group 11 and lowest in Group IV. The percentage for materials was lowest in Group VII, as mills in this group use raw cotton or wool. The percentage for materials was highest hi Group VI, com- posed of mills buying yarns and makmg hosiery of wool and cotton mixtures, while the percentages for direct labor, inchrect labor, ad- ministrative expense, and selling expense were lower in this group than in any other of the seven groups. The exceptionally high self- ing expense in Groujo V, 21.94 per cent, and the large amount of goods purchased in Group I, 11.05 per cent, reduce materially the percentages for other factors of cost. COMPABATIVE ADMINISTRATIVE AND SELLING EXPENSE. The percentages of the items of factory expense, administrative expense, and selhiig expense, which appear in Table 33, are repro- duced and shown for purposes of comparison, in condensed form in Table 36, Table 36. — Percentages of Average Factory, Admim8tr.\tive, and Selling Expense, by Specified Items and by Groups of Establishments, Based on Net Sales. Mills making full- fashioned or both full- fashioned and seamless hosiery (East and West), Group I. Mills making .><«*amless hosiery. Items. Cotton (Pennsyl- vania and New York), Group II. Cotton (South), Group III. Cotton and silk (Pennsyl- vania), Group IV. Cotton and silk (West), Group V. Wool and cotton mixed (East, West, and South), Group VI. Wool and cotton mixed, mills spinning yarns (East and West), Group VII. Number of establish- ments 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 Factory expense: Power,, light, and heat 0.84 .59 L84 .13 .81 L28 .91 2.82 .32 .69 L14 .46 2.38 .16 .82 1.05 .73 2.03 .24 .62 1.53 .87 L60 .18 .32 1.04 .46 2.33 .22 .65 2.29 .65 1.19 .12 1.42 Repairs Depreciation Fire insurance Other factory ex- oense Total 4.21 6.02 4.96 4.67 4.50 4.70 5.67 Administrative expense: Salaries of officials. . . Salaries of office force. Rent, general office. . .63 .47 1.05 .81 1.06 .87 (o) .09 .07 1,74 .92 .68 1.58 .90 .64 .51 .88 Office expense Insurance, except fire Collection expense. . . .18 .07 .04 .07 .29 .24 .30 .02 .04 .34 .16 .20 .32 .05 .24 .28 .10 .20 .69 .16 .10 .54 .46 .12 .14 .03 .08 .05 .40 .25 .34 .m .m .m .21 Bad debts .41 .15 .40 Taxes other administra- tive expense Total 1.99 2.92 3.05 3.85 4.33 2.49 2.90 Selling expense: Salaries of officials. . . Commission and ex- pense .28 3.39 .56 .02 .02 .35 .29 .79 .25 .65 4.87 .42 .12 2.89 .07 .27 .07 .06 1.14 .76 .37 .63 4.16 .29 .59 6.14 .83 .03 2.19 .32 .as 6.65 .47 Wages Rent, show and shipping rooms Fire insurance Packing cases, etc. . . Cartage and freight outward .06 .76 .58 .51 .07 .09 .44 .63 L12 .06 .09 .51 1.58 9.74 2.46 .03 .70 1.62 .03 .13 .05 .49 .19 .75 .53 Advertising other selling expense Total 5.95 7.92 5.75 7.42 '^1 04 T (1.T 9.45 1 o Less than one one-hundredth of 1 per cent. In examining this table the details help to explain why the per- centage for administrative and seUing expenses were higher in Group y than in any other of the seven groups and lower in Group VI than in any other. It will be noticed that the advertising account is very large in Group V and scarcely anything at all in Group VI. PEBCENTAGES OF COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. Table 37 shows the data for each estabhshment separately in the same form as they appear in Table 33 for groups. 41 -—*''" 1 n -^ . 72 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISH MEKTS. 73 CO H 'A M s? K QQ )-3 n < » » m aT H H o Q pq GQ O o o Q < 00 w o 05 H H Q H g O H P4 O OQ » CO w PQ e3 d 5? o J2; 1—1 d d o o d 00 d o o "3 d o TO d d o 8 TO % 8 SB N 00 TO » S^ O TO 00 g CM s JS 1-1 CM CO CM TO «o TO kfflOl «OTO CM'")' CM ?5S CM^ TO -HCM 8 t^CM 1—1 «c 8S ITO CM S CDO) V TO '^S «C( CM S^ »c ^! fHCO TO TO cm' CM OS Q «0 iC C TO SS?8^ TO i-f CM S?8^*^ TO« < CO rHrH -"ji * JO •^ TOWJOS 'i' 1^ 0> U5 t>» 0» ■ 'ui * ■ ^0>i-i0t>. 'cm 'to 8StSJ::|g eci-i'^'^* S S 00 o '^ '*< O TO Q? f •* o ooo ■* ' tH CM CMTOCM»-. i-H 'lO " ' » 1-1 00 1-1 X ^ TOCM'^00 00«O OOTO CM CM«CCM 00-» ^CM'^i-i -< 03 IB o o 5 ^ CM* «TO TO O •fcl « •2 8 1^ 3 o « U3 TO "3 TO 00 s 00 TO C4 -» i'J ?N OT ( v OS Em o 90O CM 00 CM O 00 •HC< {2 too t>.00 t^CM ss ^CM oso «Oi ;00 1*1-1 U30 sg §s^ ^s CO 9 S88151; TO ?S2 CM 00 ooo ^ sa 8 r^ OS 00 . -H C CMC5 »CCC t^.'^TO •-(•lO OS 'to g §§82 2SSS5J?g ^58 8S SS ooo CM Si s? £3 CO O O ® o o g . '^S o o g rn ^ li -U .2 C8 OS fl o g a,® 00 CO o a?§ OO : s u 3 oqqqKO 5'3'3®' 3 CM CM ^52 CM TO ?5 OS u; TO S2 tOiOTO l^ CM •* I-- U5 f «■ J»l S!? TO »OCMTO 'cicM i I § •i ^ CD Ix US « s 5 o HO a K o o o g &-2 i 8 2 £ U.4 ••5 Sat >^ 74 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 75 a 8 w a n GQ w H O OQ >^ A aT H h) <5 O A m QQ o o o Q PM o » t— ( Q H C 02 C Eh 'A H O CO o d 6 00 CM 6 I 6 Si d d d Jz; d 05 o ;z; 00 o o s 8 00 8 8 •o 00 CO N n «3 N CO 1^ CI CI »o 00 00 'O 00 ec o esj c» 'J' OO 1-4 c« o> CO o 00 03 o u g o o o "3 B ee CO o CO CO I-H CS« O 05 CI 00 c« Oi CO o si • r>. t^ •OJ 05 ;eo CO «0 <0 »o C< 3i 'co o Oi'O C0"(0 "3 K CO S2 T-Hci 00 lo CI CO o ^ r>. »— I a (o l^ C« OJ o: o • « • • ■ CO -H CD CO CO at I - § OS S co' . I- 00 'COOrtCiNcO 00 1^ -00 • • ^ I CO ie% ciff* 0> 5 • COO • c» ci • t^co Ouo Cli 8? ^ "5 ' © ■ • QD -CO eoo -N • •« -TO OiiC • Cl C1 1-1 CM •♦ . CI l^ ■ 1-t O O r-( i . i-iO CO 00 CO Tf lo X lo ;»! «0 T»< 00 t- •«»< 'cico CIO CI OJ ci cic» 0.-I •-ICI 1-H CO *co 00 t^CO I-H CI o CD CO Cll^ cici 00 1^ oo»C' 1-H o5 1-1 c: dcici 1-1 lo O ■«r cc 1-1 c4 ooci r- g'>90 -1-1 'OO^d 00 00 CO r^t^oor-- Oeooo© CI C»i-i OS CO CO 05 CO CI X — < 00 «C ^ CO iC • • • • CO rt 1-1 Oi • OJ CO :$ •CI o>co UO 9 Cli-l»J eoi-ii- 00 Sci CI CD OS • UOCI gC3S -UOd • 'laiO CI t>- • »H o • • O eo CI CD t^ CO • CI O . CC> M i^CO -1-1 11-1 f-« -^-^ :gJ8 : .S§ I>'<9< CO 1-4 1-1 OC CI CO r- ■ cot^r^ CI J ^2 C3 y. pi a 83 ^ « 03 r « •^ Co c9t>. CO eo CD 00 • eo CI • c- CO' »Cl 00 -lO O -^ rJ CI I CO ■ OS cOiO • • • i-< 1— ( -^ •■*c» ■t^co S^^ CO ■"^OS t^oo ooe5t^ cieo * • a> 4 ll ■ • • © «> ■ o • m • (4 0) ff tn o O 'jj Oi f^p p o ^ S ® 0} a o OS o Eh I ga!a)«Ott;oWEH c8 o s s X3 s OS s s :.S :.& •xs Hi ■>3 o : a . « p d S « ■ • ^ ^^ "• P O H . fe c2«« .2 . r c5 o 3 ■ 2 .S oQ o r- as s OS i^eo CI o g eo eo CO eocico .-H-^ CO 8 ooo osio lOcO gcoeo «oco CD r-cico 00 CI CD OCDU5 Co 8 CI C3 1^ CI CI o OS CI OS §8 CO CO OS J? U5 CS CO OS o eo CO e s o S ra OT t> •2x3 rt5 llii |8.g2 o tn o o be CO o o o (1 S OS ■S3 CI g CI CO C3 OS CI a o CI ^ s CO «9 i« GO .© -ff? w ■N OTf S : : S :§ «o s S8S2 s; 8 8 :^??S s • o t^ ^ • •CO 1-4 00 • • ^ ^ e* C«J OS i-( oOr^ sr OS >o s s s^ CO s ^ §8 1-1 U3 1—1 Hi eo fe id o 8 g^ SS 0!> o 00 lO 8 oi "91 o> oi o»co«o s 8 s 8 is If • • , rH o g N s 9 CO 8 S V w 8 woo eoiM 00 1^ 00 eo oie>< 82 00 e4 e eo 00 a ^ 00 eo o eo 90> toeo eo eo to 00 % 78 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISIIMENIS. 79 a a 00 H S5 W 03 HH •J n El m H OQ >^ oq" H OQ O H so OQ O oi o o 5 H o s 8 O 1 8 CO • 8 s d 12: 8 I-H s M 3 c4 oe c^ o> 1^ CM OS r-IOS CM CM «o "5 CM Seo CMeo OS "0< "3 CO ^^ O i-^eo OO'* Oll^ »c t^oo CO CM eo CM CM W5 OS CO CM CO eo ■"fO CM'"* •«J< I i 2 OS b^rS •a -S -i o o CO . eo >5 I-H ic lO i-H IC CC cOOScif O eoeoci '•-< CM t- eo ^ CO oeot>.eo-^ CM eo St^eoCMO CMi-< eo « eOi-icM ' t^ » »0 "C o CM 'eo *<-< CM O 00 S8SS CM go U30 ^eo 5g^ eo "O 00 CO OS o t>- CO i-l "5 i-H 8»-li-tO 06 O 00 A 30 •^ooeoQC — i^ t>- 1^ S — 1 CM 'tP ' s eo OS « CO a ^»< eoos»H CO OS OS OS CM eo •-leoeocMCM CO eo CM '»< CM* •^ ooeo< »OCMCM( i-Hi-ieo eo «6 CM S S CM « CO t^ OOQiC .-tC» OS CM CM I-H f. i-H ■«»< »0 CM CM IS eo •-( 00 UO»-H < OrlOSCM ! C4^CM rH CM 00 5 o '*' ^ ft u ■-•9 b o « «.fc:*3 CS o I OS o eo CMI Wi-H ss 8 oo< 1-10 cet^ s?g U3 « 9 o o e CO eo 00 OS M- CM Tt< 1~- 1-H ■-*< c If; f-i eoo :?? 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OC"»t< OSi-t s^ »-t t-» ■^ »-i o r* t^ eo 1-H CM * CM CM CO OS eo eoo t^OS OCMCO 28Sfeg 00 eo eo ej tt go CO 10 SM CO o 00 eo I-H lo to eo ^S3g§8% O « "-H CM O ■-HOOO — SSS2S«2 03; eot~- sc eo »0 O 1-< Tf « Oi 9 CD 03 on « - S ® ^« cot- eor- i>.cood •^ .-H OCC OS l-t ^1 CM CM>Ci OSr-l CO r^CM CO eo OS CM CM 1 rji O l-fCO t-hO CO eo»o CM ■^i-HQ CO CMeo 'cm ■CM«0 ■ eoeo 'C^ ^00 tn .2^ .g-g-f fee So«« — CO CM eo »c CO ^ I— C 'V •-hOSCO ^J 30 00 CM 1^ O O ■v OS t^ eo^H ■8 (DOOt- ■«jeo"5t:^ ;-<->r CMOOCM ' 'c4eo s giflooo 03—40 »c — OS 00"3< CM 'T cowir^- oooscMco t-tU5 gj -hCM -HO -HOS00«-H O'O'V o 3CX03 0S rH CO CO 00 eo CMcOiC c ■*os -Hcew 1H |-I>C CO CO 00 •itOCM -r CMOS iceot^ Oeof CO cor- s CO CO eo § s Oso^ U3t>.0 CM CM coeo oc s eo CO eo eo s 00 'J' 00 OS CO OS OS 00 CM 10 OS s eo CM §? lOi iCM ICO CO 00 OOt-l CMrH C9 ^ 10 001^ •OCM CM 00 s CJTt" 00s 1-H «/i s?* OS CO •*os U5 00 'CO c CC eo e eo CM CM 10 eo »c CO Tf 00 e o I-H CO CO1 Xi CM «c 8 s? 06 OS o OS OS eo CM* eo CM 8 X X CO XcO xeo X ICM 10 i be 2 g c a-a 3 ^ <9 w5 I .g X s CO l-H a o «-H eo e -HOC cmS eo OS X eo o Ost^ -H -V ;;?s cq X o COi-H 1-1 eo CM U3t^ •<»>CM s X rH CO coeo CM coco OS CM O o W5 X! C d ® n S »: S » * n otT h3 -•J OD H O a GO aT CQ O o o Ph Q » 3 00 S8 o 8 CO 00 CO o e>i "5 K ^ O »o< CO ;s cow t-00 *eo J5« CO ■Of" c4 c4 06 00 i§CO <2 CO « CO :s 00 CO N ^ e<« CO t^ O O O (>■ CO s -^l*- ifS 00 ^ CO •-< ^ ss^gs CO •"IPO :8 ^S eo»H C« »-< QOWt^O'H COOifH ^ O wi ' ei CO 8 -H -v »-l 3> CO V CO t^ Cti-fw* -H s (X ■*«CO(» o i-<0'^ "o CO eoQuses :o 00 U5 'r CO -^ t£ ' ei CO eo-«coff4 1» • '04 • • »o Tt< eo e« 5N « CO t» «5 N t>. SS^'-'^ •oco fH e>4 85S28J5 N CO U3 ij" S« CO coco ss sg ?2£S It* »00 s 8 CO t» en ■a 1 1 = I s « 5 *^- -3 O H 2 1 = S : 08 ICQ I »00 .»nON N^ioopeo-* eoocD co«o»-i s C0O3 3C oa>c>4 eo CO O -H CO t>» S8 :S8 S o on COO) 8 CO»-l as ;s "5 s? c^»(jop ^ 28 s; f— c g235S? e See- C8 o -t-a en as b b t-i — H O O g ^ oQ M p; O ti; o ca E^ 90 CO wS 3S 06 • cofi^ :^8 ^ CO-^ CD r^ 1-1 "ft 8n 1-i r^^ §5 1-H to at ^ s gs^ »o «o a P4e>4iOt«00 S!o8^S • ■ • s eoO>>0 sss 8Sc3 S! §85 s 8SS85S Sot'. $o> CO • • • • • rneoN N g >o 8 8 "5 Mi 8 ^! e«- 00 ^ R s o> S8 ^ CI cici ci«o »-4CS 1-5 ci occi 8 ci o CO c3?2 ci-i 1-4 0» CO ;18 di-5 CI t^ CO CO i6 8 ci <3 O CO 00 ^ CO CO 00 CO CI 00 00 o 73 08 I ll 5 *^-S "9 Qi o Eh CO o o ooes**— 15- -i^^ 82 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 83 COST BASED ON MANTIFACTURING AND SELLING EXPENSE. The preceding tables in this chapter of the report show the per- centages of the items of cost and the percentages of profit based on net sales. The percentages of the items of cost, if baaed on the total of the cost of goods manufactured and the selling expense, are differ- ent from what they are if based on net sales. If based on the net sales, the item of profit is a part of the divisor, and in that case the percentage of each item of cost is smaller than when the computation is based on the cost of manufacturing and sell- ing. When there is a loss, the divisor is correspondingly smaller and the quotient in each case is larger. Furthermore, the amount of goods manufactured during a business year may be greater or less than the amount of net sales. Comparison of the inventory of finished goods on hand at the end of a business year with the inventory at the beginning (►f the year may show a smaller amount on hand at the end of the year, in which case the quantity (►f the goods sold during the year would hav(^ been greater than the quantity manufactured and purchased. If th(^ closing inventory were greater than the opening inventory, the quantity of goods sold during the year would have been less than the quantity manufactured and purchased. In the series of tables which follow the percentages of the items of cost are based on the total manufacturing and seUirig expense — that is, on the total cost of the product and selling expense of the factory during the year — and not on the amount of sales. Table 38 gives the percentage of items of cost, by divisions and sub- divisions, based on the total manufacturuig and selling expense. It shows the data for all establishments reporting (Group I to VII) for mills making seamless hosiery (Groups II to VII), and for mills which buy their yams and make seamless hosiery (Grou])s II to VI). In Table 39 the data are given separately for each Group I to VII. Comparing the data for Group I, Table 39, showing the percent- ages of the items of cost of the j>roduct in mills making full- fashioned hosiery, with the data for groups II to VI, Tablo 38, showing such percentages for mills buying aU yarns and making seamless hosiery, it will be seen that in Group I the percentage of direct labor was considerably larger and the percentage of in(urect labor also was larger, while the percentages for materitds, factory expense, administrative expense, and selling expense were smaller. Comparing the data for Group VII, Table 39, showing the per- centages of the items of cost of the product in miUs spinning all or part of their yams and making scmmless hosiery, witn the data for Groups II to VI, Table 38, showing percentages for mills buy- ing all yams and making seamless hosiery, it will be seen that in Group VII the percentages for direct labor, indirect labor, factory expense, and seUing expense are somewhat larger. In Group VII the percentage for material is considerably smalL^r, owing to the fact that the materials are cotton and wool instead of yams. In Group VII the percentage for the administrative expenses is slightly lower. Group II is composed of 16 miUs making seamless cotton hosiery, 15 in Pennsylvania and 1 in New York; Group III, of 16 mills mak- ing seamless cotton hosiery, 6 in Georgia, 4 in North Carolina, 3 in Maryland, and 1 each in South Carolina, Tennessee, and Missouri. Comparing the data for these two groups, it wiU be seen that in Group II the percentages for direct labor, indirect labor, factory ex- pense, and selling expense are higher, and the percentages for mate- rials and administrative expense are lower. Table 38. — Percentages of Specified Items of Expense, Based on the Total Manufacturing and Selling Expense, by Combinations of Groups of Estab- lishments. Items. Number of establishments Cost of materials, maniifacturing, and selling Raw material Direct labor: Wages Paid to contractors . All estab- lishments reporting data, Groups I to VII. 7S 100.00 52,82 Total. Indirect labw: Salaries of officials. Wages Total. Factory exi)ense: Power, heat, light Repairs , Depreciation Fire insurance Other factory expense. Total. Administrative expense: Salaries of officials Salaries of office force Rent, general office Office expense Insurance, except fire Collection expense Bad debts Taxes Other administraiive expenses. Total. Selling expense: Salaries of officials , Commission and expense , Wages , Rent^ show and shipping rooms. Fire msurance , Packing cases, etc , Cartage and freight outward Advertising Other selling exp&iae , Total. 24.60 .13 24.73 .78 3.60 4.38 Mills mak- ing seamless hosiery, Groups iitovn 64 100.00 53.47 22.64 .05 22.69 .81 3.56 4.37 1.42 .72 2.20 .20 .93 5.47 (») .95 .90 .29 .07 .07 .31 .33 .28 3.20 .39 4.78 .50 .06 .06 .46 .76 1.84 .55 9.40 1.59 .73 2.17 .21 .90 Mills buy- ing all yams and making seamless ho- siery. Groups II to VI 56 100.00 55.15 21.76 .07 21.83 .88 3.03 3.91 5.60 («) 1.04 1.04 .33 .07 .07 .40 .32 .27 3.54 .41 5.06 .41 .08 .07 .47 .95 2.22 .66 10.33 1.30 .72 2.40 .23 .69 5.34 («) 1.17 1.05 .31 .07 09 .39 .24 .27 3.50 .42 4.33 .38 .10 .08 .44 1.15 2.60 .68 10.18 a Less than one one-hundredth of 1 per cent. Group IV is composed of 11 mills making seamless hosiery of cotton and silk mixed, all in Pennsylvania; Group V, of 9 mills making seamless hosien^ of cotton and silk mixed, 4 in Wisconsin, '5 m Ohio, and 2 in Illinois. Comparing the data for these two groups, it will be seen that the principal differences in percentages are for materials and selling expense. In Group V the percentage if I 84 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 85 for selling expense is extraordinarily large, owing to the very larger percentage for advertising. This accounts for the much lower per- centages for materials and direct labor in Group V because, if the percentages for certain items are unusually high, the percentag(»s for other items must be correspondingly low, as 100 is tne total of all. In Group IV the percentage for indirect labor is somewhat higher and the percentages for factory expense and administrative expense are shghtly lower. Table 39. — Percentages op Specified Items op Expense, Ba^ed on the Total Manufacturing and Selling Expense, by Groups op Establishments. Establishments buying all yams and makmg— Establish- Items. Full-fash- ioned or both full- fashioned and seam- less ho- siery (East and West), Group 1. Seamless cotton hosiery (Pennsyl- vania and New York), Group II. Seamless cotton hosiery (South), Group III. Seamless cotton and silk ho- siery (Pennsyl- vania), Group IV. Seamless cotton and silkh(k siery (West), Group V. Seamless wool and cotton hosiery (EfKSt, West , and South), Group VI. ments spinning yams anr] making seamless hosiery (East and West), Group VII. Number of establish- ments 9 16 16 11 9 4 8 Cost of materials, manu- facturing, and selling. . . 100.00 100.00 100. 00 100.00 100.00 100. iO 100.00 Raw material 51.35 52.99 58.52 51.89 46.85 70.25 47.51 Direct labor: Wages 29.04 .31 25.11 .17 21.22 26.78 .18 17.76 15.68 25.75 Paid to contractors. . . Total 29.35 25.28 21.22 26.96 17.76 15.68 25.75 Indirect labor: Salaries of officials Waces .71 3.70 1.24 2.93 .61 3.54 1.13 4.03 .93 2.41 .45 1.22 .57 5.44 Total 4.41 4.17 4.15 5.16 3.33 1.67 6.01 Factory expense: Power, heat, light. . . Renairs 1.04 .72 2.25 .16 1.00 1.33 .95 2.94 .34 .72 1.34 .54 2.78 .19 .95 1.05 .73 2.03 .24 .63 1.60 .90 1.67 .10 .33 1.05 .46 2.36 .23 .66 2.63 .75 Depreciation Fire insurance other factory ex- pense 1.37 .14 i.ai Total 5.17 6.28 5. HO 4.68 4.60 4.76 6.52 Administrative expense: Salaries of officials. . . Salaries of office force. .77 .58 1.10 .84 1.24 1.02 .08 1.74 .92 .71 .91 .65 .58 1.00 Office expense Insurance, except fire Collection expense. . . Bad debts .'22' .08 .05 .09 .35 .29 .31 .02 .05 .35 .16 .21 .32 .05 .25 .28 .10 .20 .72 .12 .14 .03 .08 .05 .41 .25 .39 .05 .00 .48 .17 .47 .46 Taxes .58 Other administrative expense .26 _^ Total 2.43 3.04 3.57 3.86 4.61 2.52 3.34 - Selling expense: Salaries of officials Commission and ex- pense .34 4.16 .69 .02 .03 .43 .35 .97 .30 .68 5.07 .44 .14 3.38 .09 .32 .08 .07 1.34 .89 .43 .64 4.17 .29 .ee 6.40 .86 .03 2.22 .32 .37 7.« "^ ages .51 Rent, show and ship- ping rooms Fire insurance Packing cases, etc — Cartage and freight outward .07 .78 .60 .53 .07 .09 .44 .63 1.13 .06 .09 .53 1.04 10.15 2.57 .03 .71 1.64 .03 .14 .05 .56 .32 Advertising .«7 Other selling expense .61 Total 7.29 8.24 6.74 7.45 22.86 5. 12 1 10. 87 ' ■ — • a Less than one one-hundredth of \ per cent. Group VI is composed of 4 mills making seamless hosiery of cotton and wool mixed, 2 in Illinois and 1 each in Pennsylvania and Maryland; Group VII is composed of 8 mills that spin aU or some of their yams and make seamless hosiery, mostly of wool and cotton mixtures, 4 in New Hanipshire and 1 each in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Comparing the data for these two groups, it will be seen that in Group VII the percentages for direct labor and indirect labor are considerably larger, while the percentage for materials is much smaller. This is because the mate- rials used by the mills in Group VII are largely cotton and wool instead of yams, and the labor m these mills includes the labor for spinning, as well as for knitting. In Group VII the percentage for selling expense is considerably larger, owing to a comparatively high percent*age for salaries, commissions, and expense of salesmen. In Group VII the percentages for factory expense and administrative expense are somewhat higher. FACTORS m STTCCESSFITL MANUFACTXTBINQ. Success in the hosiery industry depends largely upon the good judgment of the manufacturer in ouying cotton, wool, cotton yarns, woolen yams, or silk yr ns. To some extent luck also is a factor, because materials are often bought far in advance of the manufacture of the product and the delivery of the finished goods, and meanwhile the market prices for the materials may considerably fluctuate. Other factors of success are the possession of sufficient capital, modern equipment, efficient factory management, and effi- cient selling methods. It is practically impossible to trace statisti- cally the effect of each of these reasons for successful business, but a study of the percentages of the items of cost of the product, based on the net sales, will, at least to some extent, indicate whether the general management of an estabhshment is efficient. For good reasons an establishment may have larger proportionate expense than the average for materials, direct labor, and indirect labor. This is somewhat dependent on the quality of the goods that the estabhshment produces. Many estabhshments have found it profitable to spend more than the average for selling; that is, to pay higher salaries or commissions to salesmen of unusual ability. The same ratio of expenditure for aU items will not be found in any two knitting mills, but if the percentages for many items are much greater than the average of similar estabhshments, the profit will be smaller or there will be a loss. The lower the percentage of total cost is kept the greater will be the proportion of profit, and a study of the various items of expenditure by any estabhshment, as com- pared with those of other estabhshments or with the average, will, m a measure, show how efficient is the management. ESTABLISHMENTS WITH HIGHEST PEBCENTAQES OF PROFIT. Among the 73 estabhshments that reported data there were large variations in the percentages of cost of production and the percent- ages of profit. Of the 73 establishments, 11 made a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent on net sales and 18 did business at a loss. The percentages of expenditure by the 11 establishments, based on the total manufacturing and selling expense, appear in Table 40. 41 86 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 87 1 SD ^ ^ %o S| < < rjl O „ S5 S CO JENT8 MENT U » ESTABLISI ESTABLIS 2:^ is » tH 05 H-l H PECIP RCEN 02 W ^P^ tf o u P^ H CQ "^ ExPEN PARED Data. ^o 2 s6 2 a .g •-3 00 (4 W W O OQ 1^ &4 ^ -. 00 S5 «3 SS Oco CO 1-1 ©» «-to eo ^ o 00 S o> O CO o> S2 M 'CO CO % CO'O'^'^N coososeot>» • ■ • • • cocoSSk o < us CO O rHCC^tOOO QC •VOi>-< 00 tC rHOO l>.00 :s ss 0»N CCS" leo JcwS^S «c ■ CO CO CIO CO COO'* ^H CO »-leO«C«rH • Nt^ I •«eo • . eo • 00 c^ §5 c<« t». CO 1-1 1>. s to t^i-H co»o SSJ^^ loeo CD Ccot^ >«oo CM 00 OtOOO • • T-lt^CO • • CO (N % :S§ S'2 *s§ ?5J:; Cfc • • i-H i~» • • o n s •^tOCKNeoeoiCb-o eoi-i<©oO'^cooJco OSCJtH WOOi-H • • • eo • i-HOOCO • • • Oi-i-^ • • s ;o CO 05 * 5t o o CO CO 00 cO(N .a I I g I fee :i|8 I S2 :SJ::S : : • ••■••** coc<> • 8 00 h >f5 tO CO ^ : :^ CO cot^»noO'*t^oo»rt S3 CO S 8 s CO ®*2 ® ? (S S-" as Co ® ®43+3 I : A g o o fe g \ < W OS H CO H U PQ PQ OS CO E-1 o Eh H H CD ccg3 H I O W o C4 ^ o <6 CO S»C t>- ^ M N SSooScO 2S s$ t-iiO «iS CO .«o CO Wi-I lOC^ eo S8 8^ CO • • • • • • • • • • ■o «>f-l 00 si rt M So e>4 ^ 'eoi-Hi-4 ^:s »-t C4 oooato S lO « • • • • ^ O) ^ ^ ^H c<» ^00 w >o c5 C'^ ooa i-lOO ."tg »HO a§SS8 *2 5S8S «f 00 $2 sssgi CD PlkOUOOO oo r-l-«o »o .>oao«ot-C3 1 O tO tO O '^ eo • • • • s 2^ i-a I 8 S an 58 eo !i ) 5 o „• B « a, o o S H e ^ •K o o fl R< S^S c* ■t^o> •©■^eoeoo "2 CO (M «o 1-^ lO i<-ieo .-it^ • i-H eo t^ o> eo eo t^3s • -M •^ O 'CO •^eo • • ' *»-5 < »HMOco25oeooo-* CO S eo ■g -C r -r^ . .- OB n e "O oi ■ -eo a 00 eo 9> 0^ PI a S © OS OS "-I • 'Pi? »0 • "Ol OS c< I '■ ! "H ©' ! bo ■ P< : a o I o OT V-i fl o M<© ® fe I r^ «0 o t^ rl ■* §5 eo ^ : © :^8 as ^-9 © OC ; © • to §2 fl-9 .S bci-i t. «§ be a « o ■-I i § d o I' » I 1 n o © 1 90 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 91 It will be observed that the 1 1 est ablishments which had a manu- facturing profit of 10 per cent or more included one or more establish- ments m each of the seven groups, (except Group VI, composed of 4 mills knitting seamless cotton hosiery of wool and cotton mixtures located m the East, West, and South. ' Four of these 1 1 establishments, Nos. 1,2,6, and 8, were in Group I composed of 9 mills m the East and West knitting full-fashioned hose' or both full-fashioned and seamless hose, made of silk or silk and cotton mixed. One establishment. No. 19, was in Group II, composed of 16 miUs 1 5 m Pennsylvania and 1 m New York , makmg seamless cotton hosiery' Two establishments, Nos. 33 and 89, were in Group III, composed 01 lb mills m the vSouth making seamless cotton hosiery Two establishments, Nos. 42 and 51, were in Group IV, composed 01 11 mills, all m Pennsylvania, making seamless hosiery of cotton and silk mixed. One establishment. No. 61, was m (Jroup V, composed of 9 mills, all m the West, makmg seamless hosiery of cotton and silk mixed One establishment, No. 72, was in Group VII, composed of 8 raUls m the East and West, making seamless hosiery of cotton and wool mixed. Of the 11 establishments with a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent, shown in the table, the percentages for materials of 5 were less than those of their respective groups and those of 5 were less than the general averages of the 73 establislunents reporting. The percentage of establishment No. 2 was about 16 per cent more than the average for Group I and about 15 per cent more than the average for aU establishments reporting (Groups I to VII) This is because the materials used hj this establishment were silk The percentage for material being high, necessarUy reduces the percentages for other items of cost and largely accounts for the low percentage of the cost of direct labor. This will be better understood, perhaps by a simple lUustration. Suppose, for instance, that the cost of materials are 50 per cent of the total cost of goods manufactured the labor cost 20 per cent, and all other costs 30 per cent: but if the estab- lishment uses expensive materials, makmg the cost of matarials 60 per cent then if the relation between labor and other costs than for materials should remam unchanged, the labor cost would be reduced from 20 to 16 per cent and the cost for other items than for mate- rials would be reduced from 30 to 24 ])er cent. PBOHTS NOT DEPENDENT ON LOW LABOB COST. Of the 11 establishments with a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent, the percentages for direct labor of 4 were Lpss than those of their respective groups and those of 4 were less than the general average. The percentage for direct labor vari(^d from 17.94 (No. 61) to 37 71 (No. 42). It does not foUow that because an establishment had a •/? JiP^^P^^^i^^ ^^ expenditure for labor than other establishments It had less profits. This is strikingly shown by establishment No 42 whose percentage for labor, 37.71, was considerably higher than'thc' percentage, 26.96, for Group IV, to which it belongs, or to the per- centage, 24.73, for all establishments reporting (Groups I to VII) and yet of all of the 73 establishments it had the third highest manu- facturing profit, 15.12 per cent on its net sales. The low percentage, 17.94, of establishment No. 61 for direct labor is largely accounted for by this establishment's unusually high percentage, 25.89, for selling expense, which was due mostly to the exceptionally high percentage for advertising, 14.07. As tne total is 100 per cent, if one percentage is unusually high some other per- centage must necessarily be correspondingly lower. It should not be assumed that an establishment whose proportion of expenditure for labor was lower than that of other establishments paid less to its employees than did the others. On the contrary, the earnings of individual employees might even b(^ greater in the estab- lishment with a low percentage of labor cost, because of several reasons — (a) the fact that the employees were more skilled than ordinary employees; (b) better superintendence or superior shop arrangements enabled them to turn out a larger product per worker than could be done by workers in factories less efficiently managed; (c) more expensive materials were used in the goods manufactured; (d) overheaa expenses were relatively high. Of the 11 establishments with a manufacturing profit of over 10 per cent, the percentages for indirect labor of 7 were less than those of their respective groups and those of 7 were less than the general average. The percentages for factory expense of 8 establishments were less than those of their respectiye groups, and those of 8 were less than thegeneral average. The percentages for administrative expense of 7 establishments were less than those of their respective groups and those of 6 were less than the general average. The percentages for sellmg expense of 5 establishments were less than those of their respective groups and those of 7 were less than the general average. ESTABLISHMENTS OPEEATINQ AT A LOSS. The data regarding the 18 establishments that did business at a loss appear in Table 41. » I I 92 THE HOSIERY TKDUSTJIY COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 93 ^ OQ s o W w CO ^ 3S ^ JO Pi >A o n H WW OQ Q 5? H Q ^ W ■< P5 . & -^ -< g Pt, Eh H? 00 5? -< W C f^ "J « EHCQg fe is « ta OQ 525 H 2 O ^ S s a W§ W ^ E^ 1 (t; 00 r-; t^W W < »J ►J fe -< n el Average . of the 16 establish- ments in Group III. 8 §5 ; 12 5«S ^3 oooftira t^rHOft 8 ^s ^§ :2 8 1-1 2§ 1-1 • CO ■* r-i "n ' ' uj « U S »-4 OC • S : S8 ■OS CO ^JJSSS "s SS83S 1:3 . • o 8 Hi S : 1^ •»c «o cirHwi • • oi t-H t-i z i-i : i • ^ S ©O 8 P^SSSgS I-t eo S2 :: -^ * • « o 6 8 R o • I-t • o « t^ ' 'oi 'i-5 « ei ■ ^ ^ n a « a ^ ^ 8 00 • S ?^ OC t^C>J00$O ?i % : :< $ i : ! 6 8 U5 iQ '■? tO eo I-I CO 49 Z S CO $ ^ 8 s 1-1 • 1-1 OS ■♦ 5 ^^^S3 8 : : • 1 8 u» «c cii-i ui s i«i ! ! Average . of the 16 establish ments in Group II. 8 8 Si: a ^3 1—1 eoososeot^ SS is l-H ' I • • • • S3 8 ■4 §^g $ ooeooo5D t^ eoi^eo s 88 i§ 5 : :?=; • O 8 S : t 5 •M rH •"Ji^eo '"^ « 1^1^ • • • • l-H t-t ^ 1.H v^ g CSJ 8 s gS : ? 5 s S C>»CSt>.T-iO »ceo<©?Z^ SS :i: 2 i 8 "3 § : g § rH<« « «eo ' t^ • • . • 00 CD • 8 s at '• c GO • 2 . 1 5§ ^ SsSSS^ pos !- r^ eo -^ !§ i i d 8 oH • r CM . C '4 ^C« eo eo ^ CO 9 •a 1 w ^ % •^ • 1-4 • 8 8 i-H o 00 • &i : S 5 "5 ■ 'eo " • S5g :3i f-H • • « m 1-1 8 8 • 05 . C 3 6 ooe 1 1 <©1-< • •-"eooSce ^ "id • • -^OJ ii-l «OUS .1-t . * 1 . * • • 73 estab- lishment report- ing data, Groups I to VII. 8 • 8 "3 §2 ?: • 1 1 ' eo •<* 1-5 'oi ■ ■ U5 »00 At^t^i-i Oft* wooeo • •,— » • . . . •^ • • t • • 5 u 03 3 a ie 1 fl • H 9 ® • • m II 1^" 5 1 s 03 1 II : . a i: :§ : .a a D o 4^ •s X I-' 1 § pi; 1 i ft 1 •S 1 5 1 o i CO Is r 2 Si® I3l j:; 5 g c» lO ^ eo w ^^S g?8fe55S9 eo 00 eo S52 p* $ !0 .H 1-1 01 S§ Oft 00 eoo> 2 8 8 S c* s s JOQ eo • I— I 'H^^oeo CO o CO g eo S3 :g :8 ^«o eo eo eo 00 e N :^ i'^ lO 5ii $g^ :&SSSB lO $8 •* c^ 00 s I Ph g^ 8ti :SS S CO «o Oft eo 5« ss^ >o gs c^ s 00 eo t^ ■^ (N 8 id M 1 ■w e u « ?5^$ :SS8g^ (N 05 Oft eo 00 eo N e-) ti fc^CQ fa fe H W o hPh q S5 ?5 O ^ H 02 „ i^ O pq I. rt 00 fa ■< *^ ■J to -< e5 s o 03 a I o 6 d J2; o 3 o o (3 a .a 03 CO d CO d to d d S2J 5 8 S 8 8 8 8 8 8 «o 8 CO 8" §8 C«5 fS (N 00 •O 8 00 (N 00 00 "3 »o 8 9 OCTi «C S ^^ "3' «o CC coco t»oo o s s "5 t^Tjf eo t- CO l-H «3 0« f-l g "*«Oi-l 00 CO CM rt It-- IM (N CO 'e>i (NO* IM 00 Ouo f-H CM ■'»< 00 :5S OS CO co^ 8?28^S w OS 00^ lO CO CO CO OTi-H CO i I o o o Xi CO • c8 £ CO I §5^ t^co t^co CM CM 00 »o ■*CM t^OS 2S8 5g. CM ® 4J o ii & t, o « ©.b+S cogg CO CO CO ^S5 lOC^' cot-; ,-ico eoos eo eo eocDuo -ouacMooco 00 t>- eo ■*00 CM • CO«Ot^ • CO 00-* CM Tj5 8?S «m;o.-i«o I-- i-H i-< - «o lO 00 CM ^ Colet- te .-no CM .©i-ICM «OCM«0 '€^^^ 00 eo »o t-1 r^ CO op 00 CO CM COCO 00^ 8 eo CO CO ^ 00 •0"3eD<-i«0 CO .-lOCM 8 u OS ce oo CM CO 00 OIIOU3 00 MOCMCM OO »-iCM 228Sfe eo eo ^ 8 l-HC^l 3 o I > 2 CO B a 03 « « HO o Eh CMt^Oi 'COOQWJ^ •^coco -i-ieotocoos ■^COCO "od" ^H 00»C oS IioSooS cOrH • ' ■ *eo CM CM CM • CM -rfO CO u t4 PL4 00 CM CM Si^S :8:$S28 osc^os irjeoN r-t-oo »o ■^os :« O CO •3110 OS OCMCO CMeo 'OS "CO CO u CO t-l CM eo i CD m ® ® o g S ® 35 Phqj g ® Sg QQ : p. ; • P4 • I '"^ • • Xi . • CO < ■.•3 : • a 9 ;".§ . o •■^ 2 6f q ® ,^f£Jp^p^O-<0 ;T3 ; ; o 3 • S 9 ' s -a : S) o«3.3::3 bc ~.E2 9 1 rt SS'Ov^ 3 9 o a o 9 9 3 O 9 3 O ^ +J S ^ 08 O "* the percentage for direct kb « ill f /•?>"■' the highest shown m tfie table, while No. 60 had fhK. ^' ^T ''"'$* ^^^°'" °^, ''''^y 12-77. This fiu-ther iUustratcs that the percentage of profit or loss Is not dependent on labor 1 he percentages for indirect labor of 11 of the 18 estabUshment'i were higher than those of their respe,.tive groups and thosrof 1 2 were hirfier than the general average. » i- xi weie wPr!'1,L?f'\*i!®^/i?'" ^^''x"'? e'^Pen^e °^ 14 of the 18 establishments were hiriier than those of theu- respective groups and those of 15 were higher than the general average. The percent^es for administrative expense of 8 of the 18 ostab hshmenta were higher than those of their respective groV™ and thosV of 7 were higher than those of the general average The percentages for seUing expense of 4 of the 18 establishments were higher than those of their respective groups and those of 3 were higher than those of the general average. "o "^ o were DIRECT AND INDIEECT LABOB COMBINKD. Table 42 resembles Table 31 in that it shows, by groups, the average net sales and profits, but it gives the average iteii of expense without classification under direct labor, indirect labor, factory erpeTe adinmistrative expense, and seUing expense. lA this table Et tt,l ^'J^indu-ect labor, except s^aries of ofllciaLs, are entered L t ■ n ^ f T ^""^ ^f^"^^ ''^^ <^«'"'^ 'I'lder the heads of indirea labor, cost of administration, and cost to sell are combined, and in Se cZS *^^J.*r°^/°F ^^'i* *^d «1^ gg-.£g§ft 00 '''^.- CO t» ® 5 L. ^ < .2 ^ ID O ^ CO -^ 5 JS J3 C M C ^<-» -i p-g 2 OS ® osj^c:^ N S CO t^ n =G W^ hH r^ ^^ ff^ ^ to 0) CO Q^H 00 CO -l 00 CO>-i coos 50 00 couo ^ 000s ■* •^ rH CO O OS t- c5 ' ' 1 irj oo^xos 5 X. r^ o e^i 5 CO X c5 r^ - ^ - S'S'C^Xfiic, OJCO C"c£<3i»t< > CO to t -r < I 05 I- I coxx c<» eoco C^ to MC'tCO'^ coe>« "203 1/5 "-H CO X C» C>1 X >C- X CO 'O X CO X X CO X -H c; — . .- ^.. — . -^ t^ CO ■fl' 05 SsS o6c>S-^^ ' )0 )X eo^X «»ne^ ^ CO eo X CO CO ^^0S05 < ) ■V* CO t~ CO C! •^ Cl-'f «-»• • CO t-H 1-t X X ^l >x 311c CO X 1-H N ^■^NXOC'rt^i-leO'^OiC^ClQcC o X CO 'f^ -- ^ 'O -^ CO "i e^ i^ CM »-< o ^ Ti>cocot>-»-HOfX«ccoe^>oo c^-^io e<»-H-* »-l»- T^ 1/5 I 'V CO X >-< C*^' I CO CD «0 lox -"reM r» t^r-os Xf sr' . _ t^ X ^- t^ W CO CM I ©■^ "5CO I CM i^ 'J' ^H rH t^X'*-He5>o^|0?ot>. ox SSS?35iCM"«rx t>'iocot^©i-Hr>-i>-t^'^eMCM'^x CMt^>0'-<'0-^r^ccxcp-^t^»-io t— oxo". 1— iTrxeo»f5coicx«OTt' cc ^r 3; to eoccxa t^xxos XiCTCO x»ox-^ <-< r>- 1-t so 1-t ■>r CM CO CM CO CMt^CM CMQX ■^35 CM »co>o 1—1 1—1 1—1 X— < »C CPCM I~- CO ( XOOi XCM < »-« i-< CO 3S CM ( t^od"»«"oi' CMlfl XXOSCMCMCMOt^-UJ 1 t^aiCM iiCfli-icOi-ti.OTl'Q iCO«5t>-^HOcC»^« e«»^io ^CMeo COCO CO t-» >-o -^ LO •* CO t->-H a- CD I eo< CMar^'i^ocsCMcocMcoxoCM-HO •rfi I.- & CTi CM X 1-1 CO t- ^ is -^ X T CM 10 T X ( > i.-^ CJ CTi CM X »-i CO t— 1— < i.O ^ X T CM 10 T JXO^i-lXCOt-'HCM'n-lCr-^OXt^t^ X05 lOeo coco '^ ' 1— 1 ic 1-iCM eo •-« 10 ■* X.-I- 1(5 1-H ^32^5£— f^f^^SSSSl^SS' coi_ 01 ■^•1 I >^ W . 1 ™ w"« 1-^ **V W'»' ...' '•"1 ' i§2S'c;;2s?gs?g; 5kCeo-f^r~''^»'5'^ ; -< O r^- -^ iC 1 ^H ic oc sCMCOOt^'J'OO CM •<»• CO 1.0 •««" CM t- ^H CM eo i-< 'M cco t^ Tf CO CM CM eo s a 1 CO a s (S CO CO C CO O s « •» o O CO 2 K. o fc- 5*^ X3 to 0) .2" _M--; CO ? '^ »- ^ o ® ® .fc; fi zr. « s A X e _ O to Sf <»to .S M.£ ►^ c? t- o %^ CO a> Ceo ^^ '^ a; ® — tS X O * OS OCQEh ta CO c 03 •S CO s s QO CO lOS CM X I X i CM CM CM CM CO cm" CO X i?5 CO M g X 01 'CO'* X i xec oT .cm" »0 : 2\^ Si* CO "=» il§ o 1-t OS r^ ! X o I i-< 8 X Si ■»r CO CM i-; cO^ t^ i C e« CO CO X ic ec ct 06 e5 X X CI eo - - - CO CM CO C « c: ® .is O) •c=: << O bO Si w V3 O CO S u.i3 CO "O S == ® C o •^ M ® © •— I _^^ «_ CO O S to "9 £ eS o ^ ■"" +j t^a •ss &"-' "C O ^1 S) ® ^ S fc lo = k o o ^C C be-- o £5 toj* •r 3"^ 5 ® ? c c ti ® ^ ss5 to O h4 t 9963°— 15- .r 98 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 99 CO O o ;? (^ M o a H Xfl Q E- O < < PQ H h3 o O 00 Oh & O 90 1-4 m o o^ « 9 I— I » 1-4 6* O QQ » < i? U CO PQ -«: Si — bed w,i« ►^'2 S CO CO >>' S 2 "eS 00 be •a .a >. 3 ,C in d OS CO ■Sf> ® 5 w "3 5? CO ® "3 Pt OS 5 -e t3 w * « 3 * o i; o^ > rt m ■vec S>Ct^Oi>OONOiCQC ^^ t^ ooe«»Ci-i '■2'^5§88t::SS§§58g ©•vc »H 04 os«DCii-Hu5coeci-4>OT^— ooQ©c»fO> t^O«©-oofoso>ct^cJ©Oec»-H QOj5^« ^ e« oot--g>io ©UJNI-' Osc0©0 SS""" r5ifl5i.-HgjooQiOicu3cci«>t© ^©©■^©t— cO»-t©W>-o©u5©»«e-© e»sr^oo»-iO©t^c^i-<©'^eooo©©cno>io jj-eg^^ -H w tC2(;t^e50©c^©-H5^'»»^PhU d ® ft .a ® 5o -da By Table 43 it will be seen that the principal percentages of the items of cost of the product of aU establishments reporting data (Groups I to VII) were, in the order of the size of the percentages, raw materials, 52.82; labor, 28.83; salaries, commissions, and expense of salesmen, 4.78; depreciation, 2.20; salaries of officials, 2.12; and adver- tising, 1.84. Group I, composed of establishments making full-fashioned hosiery, East and West, had the highest percentage for labor of any group, 33.74, but its percentages for most other items were lower than the average. Group VI, composed of estabhshments in the East, West, and South making seamless hosiery of wool and cotton mixed, had the lowest percentage for labor of any group, 17.22, which is explained by the fact that the percentage for materials was far above the average. Group V, composed of establishments in the West making seamless hosiery of cotton and silk mixtures, had the lowest percentage for materials, principally because the percentages for salaries, commis- sions, and expense of salesmen, for salaries of clerks and office expense, for advertising (which was especially large), and for other items of expense were larger than the average. Group VII, composed of establishments in the East and West spinning all or part of their yams and making seamless hosiery, mostly of wool and cotton mixed, had a low percentage for mate- rials because of the purchase of wool and cotton mstead of yams. LABOR COST AND IMPORT DITTIES. As shown by Table 43, the average labor cost, based on total man- ufacturing and selling expense, varied from 17.22 per cent in Group VI to 33.74 per cent in Group I, the average for the 73 establish- ments reportmg. Groups I to VII, being 28.83 per cent. From October 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914, the period from the date when the Underwood-Simmons act became effective to a month before the war in Europe began, the imports of cotton hosiery for con- sumption amounted to $2,561,301. The duty paid on such imports amounted to $1,142,404, or asi average rate of 44.60. Under the new tariff the ad valorem rate of duty on silk knit goods is 50 per cent ad valorem, and on knit wearing apparel com- posed in chief value of wool is 35 per cent. WAGES AND COST OF MATERIALS. Table 44 shows the per cent of the total expenses of manufacturing expended for salaries, wages, materials, and miscellaneous expenses, as reported by the Census of Manufactures of 1909 for the hosiery and knit-goods industries. m 100 THE HOSIEEY IXDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 101 Table 44. — Per Cent of Total Expenses Reported for the Hosiery and Knit- Goods Industries, 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 75.] States. Salaries. Alabama California Connecticut Delaware Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Maine Maryland Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota New Hampshire . . . New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina Tennessee Utah Vermont Virginia Wisconsin All other States United States 5.5 14.5 6.2 3.0 5.2 4.5 9.3 8.1 9.9 2.8 4.2 9.3 10.4 2.3 6. 3. 4, 6. 3. 4, 4 3. 7.2 2.7 3.9 7.6 7.1 4.4 Wages. 24 25. 26. 2H. 24 22.6 36.0 25.8 22.4 23.4 31.4 22.1 19.4 27.5 29.6 24.8 24.0 IH.6 26.8 lh.8 26. 22. 13, 24 22. 23.6 34.1 Cost of materials, 61.7 45.8 58.3 66.0 62.9 65.4 48.0 51.1 49.8 66.7 56.7 58.8 60.6 63.4 59.9 64.7 67.0 66.8 62.0 72.3 57.9 64.9 74.9 65.9 66.1 58.0 51.4 25.5 62.7 M Iscella- neous expenses. 8.3 14.0 9.4 2.5 n - (. ( 7.5 6.7 15.1 17.9 8.2 1. 1 9.S 9.5 6..S 3.t, 7.0 4.M 7.H 7.4 4.6 11.3 9.1 4.4 6.6 7.3 10.8 7.4 7.4 The following comment on the tabhi appears in the census report: The differences among the States with respect to the proportions which the cost of matenals and wages, respectively, formed of the total reported expenses are attribu- table largely to differences in the character of materials used and to differences in the degree of fineness and elaboration of the prodiu^ts. The cost of materials is likely t.. fonn a smaller proportion and wages a highor proportion of th<^ total expenses in establishments which do their own spinning than in establishments that buy the yarn which they use for knitting. The percentage that the cost of materials formed of the total ex])enses reported varie? considerably in the different States, being highest in Utah (74.9) and Rhode Island (72.3) and lowest in Califorma (45.8), Indiana (48), and Maine (49.8). For New York the percentage was 64.7; for Pennsylvania, 62; and for Massachusetts, 56 7. In Massachusetts the mills use relatively more raw cotton and less purchased cotton yarn than m Pennsylvania and New York. Table 44, from the census report, is not exactly comparable with Table 43, because the former covers both the hosiery and knit-goods industries, while the latter was compiled from data regarding hosiery mills only; and also because in the former the total expense of the vear 1909 was the base, and in the latter the net sales during th<^ last business year, 1913 in most cases, was the base. These differences in mind, it is of interest to compare this census tables with Table 43. It appears that in the latter table the percentages for salaries, wages, or labor, and material are lower. CONDITIONS UNDER TABIFF ACTS OF 1897 AND 1909. The Dmgley Tariff Act became operative July 24, 1897, and remained m effect until August 4, 1909, when the Payne- Aldrich Tanff Act went into effect. Table 45 shows the amount of cotton hosiery imported for consuinption in the United States during the last full fiscal year under the Dingley law and the amount during the first full fiscal year under the Payne-Aldrich law, together with the duty paid thereon and the average ad valorem equivalent rate. Table 45. — Imports of Cotton Hosiery for Consumption in the United States During the Fiscal Years 1909 and 1911. Fiscal year ending June 30 — 1909. 1911. Dozen pairs. Value. Duty col- lected. 5,068,002 2,933,129 $6,390,921 3,824,968 $3,860,418 2,803,950 Average ad valorem equivalent rate. 60.40 73.31 The National Association of Hosiery and Underwear Manufac- turers was dissatisfied with the rates of duty on cotton hosiery which were provided under the Dingley Act, and which, as shown by this table, averaged 60.40 per cent. The tariff committee of the associa- tion, in petitioning the Committee on Ways and Means of the House of Representatives for increased rates of duty, stated near the end of 1908 that the cotton-hosiery industry was in a ^'desperate condi- tion.'' The following is quoted from the petition:** The National Association op Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers Asks FOR More Duty on Cotton Hosiery. Philadelphia, Pa., November 30 y 1908. Hon. Sereno E. Payne, Chairman Ways and Means Committee. Sir: The National Association of Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers, an organi- zation representing 75 per cent of American manufacturers of hosiery, through its tariff committee most respectfully begs to submit for your consideration the following facts and statistics to substantiate their claim for an increase in the present tariff rates on cotton hosiery. ♦ ♦«♦*«» As evidence of the needs of the hosiery craft for additional protection, we would submit for your consideration the following comparative costs of four prominent and leading articles of staple hosiery. We have selected these four qualities for the reason they are the principal items of hosiery imported, representing a greater per cent of the total imports than any others; they are also the most popular articles of con- sumption. *«**♦*♦ A careful census of the hosiery mills of this country shows the desperate condition of this craft; almost without exception, a week not exceeding four days is prevailing and in many cases three days a week is the true state of affairs. You therefore can readily understand the serious necessities of the industry, due entirely to the low cost of labor and materials in Germany, the keenest competitor for American cotton- hosiery trade. How soon will the Japanese with their frightfully low wages, even in comparison with those of Germany, the high-grade skill of their working people, and with the effective help of their Government, be competing with American labor? The hosiery craft would earnestly engage the attention of the committee to this probability, for if Japan continues to advance in manufacturing in the next five years . oThis petition was presented to the Committee on Ways and Means on Dec. 12, 1908. See tariff hear^ 'ngs before the Committee on Ways and Means of the House of Representatives, 60th Cong., 190a-9, Schedule I, Cotton and Manufactures of, pp. 4593-4607. 102 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY ESTABLISHMENTS. 103 at the same ntio as she has in the last five, American hosiery wage earners will be confronted with a condition far more serious than that which faces them to-day with the low cost of labor and production of hosiery in Germany. Most respectfully submitted. William L. Waring, chairman, 72 Leonard Street, New York City; George D. Horst, of The Nolde-Horst Company, Reading, Pa.; Thon. E. Brown, of Brown Knitting Company, Philadelphia, Pa.; W. Park Moore, of Brown- Aberle Company, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Joh. S. Rambo, of Rambo & Regar, Inc., Norristown, Pa. ; A. H. Sulloway, of Sulloway Mills, Franklin, N. H.; Julian S. Carr, Durham, N. C; Gamett Andrews, of Richmond Hosiery Mills, Chattanoogji, Tenn. In considering the statements in this petition that the hosiery industry was in a desperate condition in 1908 as a result of inadequate protection under the Diiigley law, attention may be given to Tables 46 and 47, which show census statistics for the years 1899 to 1909, cover- ing most of the years that the Dingley law was in force, 1897 to 1909. Table 46. — Development op the Hosiery and Knit-Goods Industries in the United States, 1899 to 1909. [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 67.J Items. Number of establishments Salaried employees Wage earners (average num- ber) Primary horsepower Capital Expenses Services Salaries , Wages Materials Miscellaneous Value of products Value added by manufacture (value of products less cost of materials) Number or amount. 1909 1,374 5,721 129,275 103,709 «163,641,171 175,729,583 52,431,680 7,691,457 44,740,223 110,241,053 13,056,850 200,143,527 89,902,474 1904 1,144 4,330 104,092 78,769 $106,943,072 123,276,676 36,069,758 4,455,161 31,614,607 76,789,348 10,417,569 137,076,454 60,287,106 1899 1,006 2,831 83,691 57,346 $82,065,517 85,395,367 27,572,657 3, 138, 160 24,434,497 51,195,330 6,627,380 95,833,692 44,638,362 Per cent of increase. 1899-1900 36.0 102.1 54.5 80.8 99.4 105.8 90.2 146.1 83.1 115.3 97.0 108.8 101.4 1904-1909 20.1 32.1 24.2 31.7 53.0 42.5 46.4 72.6 41.5 43.6 Sft.3 46.0 49.1 1891^1904 13.7 52.9 24.4 37.4 30.3 44.4 30.8 42.0 29.4 60.0 67.2 43.0 35.1 Table 47. — ^Value op Hosiery Proditced in the United States, 1899 to 1909 [Thirteenth Census, Manufactures, Vol. X, p. 79.J TtiiTn Seamless, cotton Q>< Seamless, wool or wool and cotton mixed 2fi Seamless, artificial silk 5 a The total establishments that furnished data regarding specified styles, of which 19 sold sjiecified styles to retailers, 40 to jobbers or through commission li<»uses and 4 to retailors or jo))l)ers or through commission houses . COST AND PROFIT OF TTNITS SOLD TO BETAtLEBS. The data relating to the cost of manufacturing sjx^cified unitn slto presented in a series of tables which foUow: 104 M o O 02 O o 02 I .a *^ o a CO 8 a .a o o S2? C^ I 00 o S ® SI O Pi H P4 CD W o K O O Ph Q < W o Ph O Z h) Oi O 1-4 H P Q O « Ph O so O o < ft a^ OS's £ >> a a S o 3 >> ?■§ a « o a > ■ § Q "^ O w < Hi] 08 S o CO O CO -fd O O a-s ^s s CO 00 2g| t>^co C4 S C4 « ao« "-t "-t ,4 ' ■ « ^ S CO ^ •ts t 3fi «' CO S: t^eo ^ S 00 s » o +J CO o S8 »co ^H «^ ^ o Si e4 us C4 e3 a ««0 N U3 CO Oi eo«^ r- 2 S >o CQ CO « 8 h P.eo CO 106 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 107 be Is 2 i I 8 CO ^8 i 52 i-J CO « 00 8 CO ct c4 M CO c4 a> 9 a -«^ a o u I « o n .S3 a N O Im CO 6 8 S 55 »H •-• O CO $ § 12 a c * b rt I: S 2 ^ CO »H t". i § 5 s €0 *» CO os.a J2: § 8 ^ s 00 w Sg S8 CO eo C4 s s S3 r: s CO 8g . e CO CO CO c« M CI ej ^ CO CO w »« et C4 8 c4 OS s g " » J2; a ^^S 8 8 SSa ^ $S S^ ^ ?^ o o o o *"0 ^33^3 p q?^ p ap ® * •55 •-^ * St? aT - •Sfl« -agl ;a P' ^"-SvS C o « 8 ' 2. &■ p5 '^ ri n -O-C rt © 3 o a> ^ ■S-d-o = w fl "3 Si" a p •o § p •o o p •d p •o 4 i p S ^ 3 H S ^ p a p p •^ p o e •0 p ^ 4S P4 p n n n o « CO f5 a> m n n Q W M 5z; O Eh H O O P M CQ O M QQ tXi CO W 1^ < W CQ CO C« g CO cO< c^ e*< CO Oi c-»-t » O CO io 00>O W O '•i »o t^oo C5 © »-5 f-i i-ii-i OI oi 04 OI o< 88 J5 s i • r^ 1^ •» yo U3 OI H *-< •* c5 CO o« ^ ' 8 S g 'B' CO eo 10. CO r-t OD Oft 04 01 1^ OI i-< .H r-* «• s 8 S So5 cs S l-H ^ ^H O 00 CO CO CO eo CO CO o loS 8 § o i>. ■W CO s ! 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COST AND PBOnr OF UNITS SOLD TO lOBBEKS. COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 123 .^ Jf f- '^ J? ^^^ ^""^^ '°™, «* '^"^^^ 50, but it hKowh the cost of Cp Il!f?' ^-^^^ expense and profits on units of one dozen pairs of tint K ° u io^bers instead of retaUers. The bulk of the proSuct in S h T„KU t^H '"^"f*'"y "^ «°W to jobber. Comparison o^f Table 50 l^hLLtt ?7 lossy on a greater proportion of styles sold to Ct fT» > *^°" styles sold to retailer. Ws is accounted for by the fact that goods are sold cheaper to ol)bere than to retailed. Joblbers however do not receive as much dis<„unt or time allowance for pay- ments with discount as retailers do. Jobbers by paying for gooJs vnthin 10 days enable the manufacturei^ to turn elver tW nfoney rnS^a T'toH""' 'r'^y th*n W.'l'ey «old to retailers who paid in >n ui ' ' ^^^ "°^ ^^^ "^ invoice. of cost «nV?^r ^"'" f^^f ^?* ^^^H "^ ^'i^'^^ **>« principal items ot cost and the manufacturing profit or loss. The data for each style are arranged m the foUowing order- 1. According to the styles shown in Table 49. 2. Hosiery for men; hosiery for women. =«ivV, -^'^ /*"■ '"*?! ^^^ women, arranged according to the gross T^^a'^P"^ to retailers, the styles witf the highest prices C kM anH^*th tK ^^""^ *'" ****^ ^"^ .^^° "'• '^"'■« ^'y^^ ^f the samf nf ^f^TfiT' • the same gross price, the items are entered in the order 01 styles havmg the highest net prices. ««;^! difference between the gross seUing price and the net price, as shown m Tables 50 and 51, was the discomt which wa.s computed li % rr^'^^/vv*'/'^ ^^^ discount taken by customers on the gross S''Cbh?htnt'Tcredi^^ ''' "^' '"'''^^^ ^*^"' ^-^ ^^"^^ ^^- Table 52.-Number op Units Reported and Number Sold at a Profit and at A Loss, BY Groups op States. Eastern States. Western States. Southern States. Description. TotAl. Sold at— Total. Sold at— Total. Sold at— Profit. Loss. Profit. Loss. Profit. Loss. SOLD TO BETAILEBS. Full fashioned 14 ........ 20 4 14 is' 2 2 2 8 8 62 3 4 6 8 42 3 4 2 Seamless, silk or silk and cot- ton mLxed Seamless, cotton " Seamless, wool or wool and cotton mixed 10 9 9 Seamless, artificial silk TotAl SOLD TO JOBBERS AND COM- MISSION HOUSES. Full fashioned 38 34 4 1 4 21 8 1 75 63 12 9 9 17 11 55 26 4 16 7 34 18 3 Seamless, silk or silk and cot- ton mixed 1 5 1 3 Seamless, cotton Seamless, wool or wool and cotton mixed 2 38 24 14 beamless, artificial silk 1 1 Total 113 78 35 7 4 3 38 24 14 While the unit in each case is one dozen pairs of hose of the same style, this being the unit that is known in the industry, the usual retail price of one pair is given. This retail price was obtained from the manufacturer, who usually knows at what prices his customers will sell the hosiery, and, in fact, he fills orders to produce hosiery that can be sold at certain prices and allow certain profits. These retail prices are the usual prices at which the hosiery is originally retailed, not the prices during reduction sales. Table 52 shows the number of units of different kinds of hose for which data are given in Tables 50 and 51, also the number of imits sold at a profit and the number sold at a loss. The number and proportion of units sold at a loss to retailers and to jobbers is shown in Table 53. Table 53.— Total Number of Units Reported and Per Cent op Unfts Sold at A Profit and at a Loss, According to Estabushments Showing a Profit or Loss on the Year's Business. Number of estab- lishments. Total number of units. Units sold at a profit. Units sold at a loss. Units reported by- Number. Per cent. Number. Per cent. All establishments selling to— Retailers 23 a 44 122 158 106 M06 86.89 67.09 16 52 3.11 Jobbers and commission houses. . 32.91 Total o67 280 »212 75.71 68 24.29 Establishments showing a profit on year's business selling to — Retailers . 16 o32 87 113 80 6 77 91.95 68.14 7 36 8.05 Jobbers and commission houses. . 31.86 Total o48 200 6 157 78.50 43 21.50 Establishments showing a loss on year's business selling to— Retailers 7 12 35 45 26 29 74.29 64.44 9 16 25.71 Jobbers and commission houses . . 35.56 Total 19 80 55 68.75 25 31.25 o Includes 4 establishments which sell to both retailers and jobbers. 6 Includes 1 unit sold at cost. This table shows that of the 280 units sold to both retailers and jobbers, for which data are shown in the previous tables, 212, or 76 per cent were sold at a profit and 68, or 24 per cent, were sold at a loss. The percentage sold at a loss was much greater in the case of sales to joboers than in the case of sales to retauers. Of the 280 units reported, 200 were sold by estabhshments showing a profit on the year's business. Of these 200 units, 43, or 21.50 per cent were sold at a loss. It is very probable that a considerable pro- portion of the units which were sold at a loss by estabhshments earning a profit on their year's business were sold as leaders at a price Imown to be below cost, m order to induce the purchase of other units in which a profit was realized. UninteUigent price making or reckless competition are the only explanations that can be offered. Of the 80 units sold by establishments showing a loss on the year's business, 25, or 31.25 per cent, were sold at a loss. COST AND PROFIT BY GRADES. Table 54 compiled from Table 50 shows the cost items and profit on different grades of ladies' full-fashioned hosiery and ladies' seam- less cotton hosiery. 124 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 54.— Comparative Average Costs and Manufacturtkg Profits op Ho- siery, Based on Average Net Price of 1 Dozen Pairs Sold to Retailers. LADIES' FULL FASHIONED, SILK AND COTTON. [Note.— The figures in the box headings show the range of gross prices per doaen pairs.] Items. $21.50 to $8.50, 4 styles.o $4.25 to $3.85, 3 styles.^ $2.25 to $1.95, 5 styles.c $21.50 to $8.50, 4 styles.a ! $4.25 to $4, 3 styl«¥?.b $2.25 to $1.95, 5 styles.c Average net selling price $11.64 $3.89 $2.02 Per cent. 100.00 Per cent. 100.00 Percent 100 J 10 Net cost of all materials Direct labor 5.09 2.65 .95 1.18 1.29 1.21 .51 .42 .66 .79 .40 .23 43.73 22.80 8.13 10. 13 33.16 31.10 13. 11 10.80 32. s2 Indirect labor and factory ex- pense 39.06 Administrative and selling expense 19.55 11.29 Total cost 9.87 3.43 2.08 84.79 88.17 102. (2 Manufacturing profit 1.77 .46 d.06 15.21 11.83 ^2.12 LADIES' SEAMLESS, COTTON. Items. $4.25 to $4, 4 styles. $2.40 to $2, 10 styles. $1.20 to $0.42.5, 10 styles. $4.25 to $4, 4 styles. $2.40 to $2, 10 Styles. $1.20 to $0,425, 10 Styles. Average net selling price $4.02 $2.10 $1.00 Percenl. 100.00 Per cent. 100.00 Per cent. 100. 00 Net cost of all materials Direct labor 1.10 .SO .38 1.03 .89 .37 .23 .30 .43 .28 .14 .10 27.36 12.33 9.59 25.5ft 42.60 17.75 10.76 14.28 43.50 Indirect labor and factory ex- pense 27.90 Administrative and selling ex- pense 13.90 10. 00 Total cost 3.01 1.79 .95 74. 8:^ 85.39 95. JO Manufacturing profit 1.01 .31 ftf; OK IT 14.61 *"•*• 4.70 a One style of silk and 3 of silk and cotton. h Mercerized cotton. c Cotton. d Loss. In the arrangement of the foregouig table the data regarding dif- ferent styles of hosiery are shown in tlie following order: High-priced grades, medium-priced grades, and low-priced grades. Reproduced from Table 50 this condensed table shows data for 4 styles of ladies' full-fashioned hosiery having gross prices of $8.50 per dozen pairs or over, 3 styles sold at from $3.85 to $4.25 gross, and 5 styles having gross prices of $2.25 and lower; 4 styles of laches' seam- less cotton hosiery having gross prices of from $4 to $4.25, 10 styles having gross prices of from $2 to $2.40, and 10 stvles having gross prices of $1.20 and lower. For each of the grades the condensed table shows the average not sellmg price, manufacturing profit, and the items which enter into the cost of manufacturing; it also shows the percentage that the various items of cost and profit are of the average n«^t selEng price. The percentages of profit on the grades of fuU-fashioned hosiery shown in this condensed table were not so large as the percentages of profit on the grades of seamless hosiery, although the estabhshment tables show that the mills which made full-fashioned hosiery earned a greater average percentage of profit tlian the mills which made seam- less cotton hosiery. On the high-priced full-fashioned hosiery the percentage of j)rofit was 15.21; on the medium priced, 11.83. On the low-priced full- fashioned hosiery there was a loss of 2.72 per cent. The competition with foreign-made hosiery is ahnost entirely on low-priced full- COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 125 fashioned hosiery, including full-fashioned hosiery for children and infants, which is little manufactured in the United States. This low- priced product is made of cotton and the duty on it varies from 30 to 50 per cent ad valorem, according to value. Medium and high priced full-fashioned hosiery is made of silk or mostly of silk, and the duty of 50 per cent on such product is sufficient to exclude foreign competition. The condensed table shows that the average percentage of profit on the seamless cotton hosiery was 25.17 on the high-priced grades, 14.61 on the medium-priced grades, and 4.7 on the low-priced grades. For both the full-fashioned and seamless cotton styles the percent- ages of direct labor, indirect labor and factory expense were largest on the low-priced grades, lower on the medium-priced grades, and lowest on the high-priced grades, the difference in these percentages being considerable. Table 55 is similar to the last one except that the item of net selling price and of profit are omitted and the percentage of the items of cost of production is based on the total manufacturing and seUing expense. Table 55. — Comparative Average Costs of Hosiery, Based on Average Total Cost of 1 Dozen Pairs Sold to Retailers, LADIES' FULL-FASHIONED, SILK AND COTTON. [Note.— The figures in the box headings show the range of groSvS prices per dozen pairs.] Items. 121.50 to $8.50, 4 styles.o $4.25 to $3.85, 3 styles. b $3.43 $2.25 to $1.95, 5 styles.c $21 .50 to $8.50, 4 styles.** $4.25 to $4, 3 styles.b $2.25 to $1.95, 5 styles.c A veraee total cost $9.87 $2.06 Per cent. 100.00 Per cent. 100.00 Per cent. 100,00 Net cost of all materials Direct labor 5.09 2.65 .95 1.18 1.29 L21 .51 .42 .66 .79 .40 .23 51.58 26.89 9.58 11.95 37.61 35,28 14,87 12,24 31.95 38.02 Indirect labor and factory ex- pense 19.04 Administrative and selling ex- pense 10.99 LADIES' SEAMLESS, COTTON. Items. $4.25 to $4, 4 styles. $2.40 to $2, 10 styles. $1.20 to $0,425, 10 styles. $4,25 to $4, 4 styles. $2,40 to $2, 10 styles. $1.20 to $0. 425, 10 styles. Average total cost $3.01 $1.79 $0.95 Per cent. 100. 00 Per cent. 100.00 Per cent. 100.00 Net cost of all materials Direct labor 1.10 .50 .38 1.03 .89 .37 .23 ■ .30 .43 .28 .14 .10 36,57 16,47 12,82 34.14 49.89 20.79 12.60 16.72 45.64 29,28 Indirect labor and factory ex- pense 14.59 Administrative and selling ex- pense 10 49 a One style of silk and 3 of cotton and silk. b Mercerized cotton. c Cotton. This table, hke the preceding condensed table, shows that the per- centages for direct labor, indirect labor, and factory expense decrease from the low-priced to the high-priced products. COST OF MATERIALS IN UNITS. Table 56 is intended to show in detail the cost of the different mate- rials used in 1 dozen pairs of hose for which the items of cost and the profit are shown in Tables 50 and 51. In this table the establish- ments that reported the costs of units are given in numerical sequence and the styles of each establishment in alphabetical order. The fig- ures in the last column, showing the net cost of all materials, agree with the figures for the same styles in Tables 50 and 51. 126 THE HOSIER \ INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 127 iS ^ Q X) 3 .o 5 S m 4^ H C3 •J S >« H i OQ •o Q o :?: 03 •< S GQ •g 55 W 5 o n ■s -< f2 fi. T o. W 08 o >* n « ^^ > « w o s w ^ b H O r>. 00 »c h4 •d -< § Ph 1-4 ^ U3 s O " Q 3 OS » H H o a* +a »\ f, au fl >J o < kl K e o •< 9 ^ a ® O a 9 > H a GO o o o Q f^ O go I. 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COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 129 ■♦J a o '1 m m Q H H n i-t n -< n 00 o W o OQ l-l "•J p^ S5 H S3 O oT < < O H O O 90 H OS a o cs a o « p. a 9 H O -a T5 e OS .S3 ® ® w =1 o u CO e xn a 03 ® • ■eg. ® O 00 CO § > ^ O -t-a OS C "E c s t> o '-'■3 P.T-* P,g 1^ °§ •Si 08*- « OQ wa eor^oOTO O O OS 00 8000 I— I — H t-t o 000 0000 • ••• • • ■ • ■*e30i»c to «C ^ l>- •— I to •^ »-( s ■ * ' O OS e<5 Q <-i t^ evi 00 IC OS •* •* oco< s »C COOS 1—1 >— I CO eci-i OS CO 1—1 ?C OS eo s 55 O o O • iC^OCOSC •-I • '1^ C>»i-l ( t>- • -OS CO •^ ( i eo CO 00 OS 8 ^ § « CO -^ »0 CO U3 OC 00 Ot^ oSoS oc »o • • >?DOS >« «3 )CO«NO: Q 10 TO »o • • • 5 00 O1-1 o 10 CO CO CO CO c^ 0000 o S S ^ 000 C><«000»0 Q 00 1-1 N »0 $coos«: 00 »c «o 00 .-H ooeocofS CO •* u3 fl »o 10 >0 US o a> )i-t^;ooor-.iooOi^««oic>»csicoc>5co(NcocJieoNco s 8888 8 8 8 8 8 8888888888888888S88888S ^ S 8 S a « aa (- 1.. aa I CQ ® a 3 c cc ® a 1—1 ^ p^ d i-^ej cflNj-Hi—ie^i— It— 11— •'-''— i'-'esi—(i—ii-«5 ^OS !0 l,-!,-!,-. 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CM CM CM c>« 140 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 141 .a a o O H h9 >^ A 55 -< H jz; H n GQ >:] n OS m o w o OQ H N O Q H 04 aT H O F^ 03 O O 00 1-9 Q H n e2 ® C3 a en o o u .2 o Eh a 03 a 09 ® 3 g o ft § O a OS 00 CO CQ a .2 > 3% (3 o -«^ a 03 a CO O g+j *< fci o o t- •- Ih 1^ "I 02 I CO t- op « o> « <0 ec -^ 00 OS oc 00 CQ 3 OO o s o> lo ■»J" m 00 •V •fj oo t" t- «■ - P t- *a t^ 00 V on o S S 8 S o o -H o ai C^ N »— ( o o o eo 5» eo s O CO o eo <-< o o 8 CO o o CO o (N 1-1 ^ s ^ o o "" iC 00 Oi 05 s 00 00 ^ ■^ M eo CO eo CO 3 CC s s CO I-" 00 CO m eo 1—1 00 o si Ui O o o o CO s o o CO s 5= o CC CO 3 eo o o 1-( o ft o o eo 0^ CO fh o> T*" £J C3» eo eo iQ 1-H CO ir: en ^ 00 OS O 3 CO s 00 s 00 CO CO 00 CO 00 !28 c^ 88SSSSS88888S88-88SS5:SS?g§§£2g?S3§?,2§SSSg ooTroo^^cooocoooj^niTfTPNgw^^ ' '•ooj-Joeo^T.Jeoeo ceujt^ ' -jo-J CDOOQp" 1-^ ■V Tji » CM I >c>»ir'i-''"-''g" CSCM p^oH'd.PH'l-g-a'^a: . . O 08 fe+jMH CM CO "H O — -----Til ■ • o o ^ ^ COqoO aa ;?-: ': ^;h ;:?N-;^* ;:r- -^ -^. '^. « ?i-;?^-: -. -: -: -: -^ ddddddddSdWWWWddddWWWWMW i § OS 1-1 K So OO _ O U5 »0 OO rt w^ 1-1 rH •-J Ci CM cm' o CM e4 op CM© CM CM O U5 CM O CM O CM o CM O* o c» S 8 CM O 1-4 CM s Ih c e S o o o o o o o S3 "3 C O O O o o OS ' o o o a § O O O o % o o o o o 73 o I xi .a 3 2 o O o o 13 o e CQ o T3 O o o •3 ^ W J Siz; o^ O? «-< PQ O W W '-' Ui c>» CM CM CMCM CMCM CM CMeo S S f2 £3 {3 e s R J2 1 I jl 142 .THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 143 COST OF DIRECT LABOR IN UNITS. rru?'^^^!^''',^^^^ ^.^^^^ ^^' ^^ supplementary to Tables 50 and 51 1 his table shows the cost of the different direct-labor operations in the nianuf acture of each style for which figures are furnished . Sewing includes sewing the welt where the welt is not integral and sewing up the toe where it is not closed by looping. Finishing includes board- mg, pressmg, matching, labeling, and boxing. Table 57.— Details op Cost of Direct Labor, Per Dozen Pairs of Hose by Establishments and Styles. ' ThK™";I?^^®«^^^!^^^/® designated by letters for convenience of reference to Tables 50 51 aud «>« siSiilarif? of style?? ^ ^^* P'^^""^' °' ^"^*'*°^ establishments does not indicatTid entity ol even Table 57.— Details of Cost of Direct Labor, Per Dozen Pairs of Hose, by Establishments and Styles — Continued. Estab- lish- ments. 1. 1. 1. 1. 2. 2. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 4. 4. 4. 4. 6. 6. 7., 7., m I. . 7. 7.. 8.. 8.. 8.. 8.. 8.. 8.. 9.. 9.. 9.. 9.. 9.. 11. 11. 12. 12. 12. 13. 13. 13. 14. 14. 14. 14. 14. 14. 15. Style A B C D A B A B C D E F G A B C D A B A B C D E A B C D E F A B C D E A B A B C A B C B C D E F A Seamless or full fashioned. Full fashioned. — do — do do do do do do do do do do do do do Seamless do Full fashioned. do do do do do do Seamless do do Full fashioned do do — do — do — do — do — do , Seamless , do , — do — do — do — do — do — do Local- ity. -do. -do -do .do -do -do .do East. ...do. ...do. ...do., ...do., ...do., ...do., ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. . ..do.. ...do.. ..do.. . . .do. . ..do.. ...do., —do.. ..do.. West. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. East. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.., ..do.. Gross price of one dozen pairs to retailers. $1,950 2.900 3.500 4.000 6.500 7.250 1.950 1.900 2.900 2.650 4.000 3.850 8.500 500 800 825 850 Cost of direct lal)or. 2 03, ol, 01, ..do. ..do. ..do. -do. ..do. ..do. 06. 650 6.750 8.500 12.000 8.500 1L500 2L500 1.400 OL550 o 1. 825 03.500 03.625 03. 625 2.100 2.750 4000 2.000 2.750 oLOOO 01.000 3.000 4.000 4.000 .425 750 855 .425 O.350 L150 OLOOO 1.150 o, a . a\ 2 01 1 ol 1, OL 000 150 850 150 000 150 000 LOGO 0.976 Bleach- ing or dyeing. $0,105 .108 .115 .182 .300 .350 .090 .110 .140 .200 .120 .070 .110 .075 .060 .060 .060 .100 .100 .100 .100 .110 .080 .180 .070 .060 .074 .065 .128 .159 .145 .040 .050 .065 .020 .060 .060 .060 .060 .060 .065 Wind- ing and knitting. $0,385 .467 .542 .672 .920 .950 .415 .385 .580 .550 .790 .750 L325 .290 .555 .225 .200 1.243 L168 L280 380 350 560 620 .160 .160 .170 .470 .570 .630 .360 .500 .730 .310 .460 .040 .040 .200 .320 .160 .030 .020 .020 .010 .040 .040 .040 .040 .120 .045 Loop- ing. $0,065 .075 .075 .075 .095 .095 .050 .060 .065 .065 .070 .070 .120 .055 .055 .050 .055 .080 .080 .130 .130 .130 .130 .130 .070 .070 .070 .060 .075 .085 .105 .125 .160 .190 .245 .070 .075 .065 .065 .065 .045 .055 .055 .055 .055 .055 .060 Sew- ing. $0 070 078 0X0 085 140 140 1(10 OtK) .0X0 OW .070 OilO .lao .000 .OK) .1(10 .OK) .100 .1(30 .KK) Am .055 .055 .055 .065 .090 .090 .0.50 .065 .028 . 033 .0:30 .0.50 .0.50 .025 .035 .035 Flnish- itig. . 025 $0,138 .148 .154 .233 .400 .400 .140 .130 .160 .150 .190 .160 .340 .060 .075 .040 ,055 .340 .330 .380 ,380 .380 380 .480 .120 .120 .120 120 120 120 170 235 .245 .215 .230 .097 .105 .230 .270 .250 .055 .095 .095 .052 .110 .110 .110 .110 .110 .125 o Gross price of one down pairs sold to jobbers or commission houses. Total. $0,763 .876 .966 1.247 L855 1.935 .705 .725 .995 .985 1.320 L190 L915 .535 .875 .390 .370 1.763 L658 L950 2.050 2.020 2. 230 4.450 .410 .410 .460 .805 .920 .990 .810 1.030 1.405 .835 1.060 .309 .318 .653 .864 .670 .150 .200 .215 .127 .265 .265 .265 .265 .345 .320 Jtyle. Seamless or full fashioned. Gross price Local- of one ity. dozen pairs to retailers. Cost of direct labor. Estab- lish- £ caents. Bleach- Wind- ing or ing and dyeing, knitting. Loop- ing. Sew- ing. Finish- ing. Total. 15 15 17 17 17 18 18 18 18 18 19 19 21 21 B c A B C A B c D E A B A B C A B c A B c D £ A B c D A B A B c D A B C D A B c A B c A B c D E F A B C D E A B C D A B A B C A B . C . A . B . C . A . B . C . A . B Seamless do do do do do East... ..do... ..do... ..do... ..do... ..do... ..do... \ $2,000 1 ioL750 r 2.000 1 L L750 J 0.775 0.975 O.750 oLOOO 0.900 OLOOO 0.725 OL050 O.950 OL650 0.8OO 01,000 1.750 OL750 OL850 OL700 O.950 OL650 O.700 0.450 a.894 1.050 1.025 aL025 a 1. 025 0.975 1.150 0,575 a.485 0.6OO 0.6OO 0.775 OL050 0.825 0.975 O.700 0.725 0.800 O.700 O.650 0.675 0.975 O.950 O.750 0.925 ol.OOO 01.700 O.550 0.6OO O.650 0.6OO O.650 .750 1.000 1.100 2.000 O.650 O.900 O.700 O.650 0.675 O.910 O.970 . 1.4.30 . O.650 . ol.OOO . . 875 . 675 . 675 . . 675 . 1.050 2.000 $0,070 .101 .063 .075 .050 .060 .080 .100 .060 .100 .060 .065 $0,045 .045 .038 .165 .125 .190 .020 .020 .118 .135 .038 .040 .070 .075 .080 .053 .113 .153 .150 .165 .180 .050 .160 .139 .150 .154 .154 .040 .040 .073 .063 .020 .030 .080 .080 .080 .080 .070 .090 .090 .010 .078 .075 .075 .075 .100 .100 .020 .030 .045 .045 .045 .015 .015 .065 .075 .105 .120 .071 .130 .010 .078 .075 .233 .183 .251 .063 .093 .088 .079 .020 .086 .191 .213 $0,060 .060 .051 .051 .051 .045 .050 .050 .047 .040 .066 .070 $0,025 .025 .015 $0,125 .135 .074 .077 .074 .070 .070 .070 .070 .070 .082 .092 .089 .095 .104 .110 .140 .150 .120 .135 .100 .065 .100 .097 .099 .106 .106 .063 .063 .025 .025 .025 .025 .069 .071 .089 .089 .035 .035 .035 .053 .a53 .055 .064 .066 .051 .051 .084 .082 .008 .006 .008 .024 .011 .045 .042 1 .057 .067 .049 .060 .053 .053 .055 .085 .085 .085 .058 .a58 .058 .054 .064 .056 .043 .077 $0,325 .366 .241 .368 .300 .365 .015 .015 .235 do do do do do do do do do do do do ■ • « • B \Xw ••••« >**« • * ■ • • ^A\^ •••■> *B«> do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do do 1 do ..do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... South. ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... do... ...do... ...do... ...do... do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... do... ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. . ...do.. . ...do.. . ...do.. . ...do.. . ..-do.. . ...do.. . ...do.. . ...do.. .255 .295 .345 .020 .038 .030 .025 .030 .020 .020 .265 .305 .189 .060 .070 .070 .070 .050 .020 .020 .020 .255 21 .284 22 22 22 23 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 .060 .070 .110 .075 .090 .030 .020 .045 .020 .022 .020 .020 .038 .038 .313 .413 .463 .365 .410 .330 .015 .150 .020 .051 .061 .067 .067 .045 .045 .040 .035 .040 .325 .307 .332 .347 .347 26 26 27 .016 .016 .202 .202 .138 27 .123 27 .015 .025 .100 27 .080 28 .045 .075 .045 .065 .040 .030 .035 .038 .033 .028 .010 .010 .010 .005 .010 .005 .025 .028 .035 .035 .030 .040 .040 .040 .038 .035 .045 .045 .040 .040 .060 .050 .219 28 .254 28 .249 28 .269 29 .175 29 .195 29 .200 30 30 .010 .151 .202 30 .193 33 .194 33 .196 33. .201 33 .196 33 33 34 .010 .010 .010 .174 .177 .063 34. .020 .020 .073 34. .073 34 .010 .023 .049 34.. .049 35. .050 .050 .035 .035 .034 .027 .038 .033 .028 .030 .050 .029 .045 .045 .045 .032 .042 .037 .032 .029 .082 .040 .060 .060 .030 .050 .040 .038 .035 .192 35... .207 35. .257 35... .282 36. .184 36.. .267 37 37... .010 .1.51 .202 37 .193 38... .348 38... .318 38..;.; .365 39 .035 .045 .042 .036 .036 .027 .201 39 .241 39.... .233 40 .201 40 40... .011 .173 .206 41 .266 41 1 .319 I o Qross price of one dozen pairs sold to jobbers or commission hoiises. 144 Table 57. THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. -Details op Cost of Direct Labor, Per Dozen Pair« of Hose ],y Establishments and Styles— Continued. ' COST AND PROFIT BY SPECIFIED UNITS. 145 Estab- lish- ments. Style. 41 C 41 D 41 E 42 A 42 B 42 C 42 D 43 A 43 B 43 C 44 A 44 B 44 C 44 D 44 E 44 F 45 A 45 B 45 C 45 D 46 A 46 B 46 C 47 A 47 B 47 C 48 A 48 B 48 C 48 D 48 E 48 F 49 A 49 B 49 C 49 D 50 A 50 B 50 C 50 D 51 A 52 A 52 B 52 C 52 D 52 E 53 A 53 B 54 A 5'! B 54 C 54 D 54 E 55 A 55 B 55 C 56 A 56 B 56 C 56 D 57 A 57 B 57 C 57 D 58 A 58 B 58 C 59 A 59 B 59 C 59 D 59 E 59 F 59 G 60 A 60 B 60 C 60 D 60 E 60 F Seamless or full fashioned. Seamless do do do do do do do do do do do do do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do do do do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do do do — do — do do do do do do do do do do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do — do ...do ...do — do — do ...do — do — do ...do ...do ...do . ..do ...do . ..do Local- ity. South. ...do... ...do... East.. — do... — do ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... — do... ...do... ...do... ...do... . ..do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... — do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... — do... ...do... . ..do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... West.. . .do . . ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. . .do .. ..do.. ..do.. ..do.. . -do .. . .do . . ..do.. ..do.. ..do .. ..do.. ..do .. . .do . . . .do . . ..do.. ..do .. ..do.. . .do . . . .do . . . -do . . ..do .. ..do .. ..do.. . .do .. ..do .. ..do .. ..do.. . .do .. ..do.. . .do .. Gross price of one dozen pairs to retailers. $2,150 1.200 1.250 0.625 O.950 1 1 a al o3 1. 1. 1. 1. a a 000 800 975 750 500 1.0,50 .9.50 100 000 125 150 1..S25 1.750 a. 950 O.S50 Cost of direct labor. ol al a 3 al, a al. al. al. al. al. 850 .5.50 400 8.50 950 000 (KX) 000 500 500 1. 2. 2. a 3. 350 a 3. 000 a 1.750 a 3. 250 1.750 a 3. 250 0.675 a. 950 a 1.5.50 3.250 2.050 al.500 3.500 ol.OOO o 1.8.50 3.500 2.100 ,375 100 0.50 050 4.150 4.1.50 2.1.50 2.0.50 2.0.50 1.500 o 1, 6.50 o 1. 8.50 a 3. 2.50 2.100 2.100 2.0.50 2.800 1.100 2.000 4.000 2.1.50 2.400 2.1.50 2.400 4.000 2.400 4.000 2.0.50 4.100 2.7.50 4.000 6.2.50 2.150 Bleach- ing or dyeing. $0.0«0 .042 .052 .015 .oao .065 .070 .1.50 .080 .0«2 .055 .075 .075 .075 .220 .06.5 .060 .0.50 .090 .0,50 .110 .1.50 .0.50 .06.3 .060 .040 .080 .035 .160 .180 .080 .180 .080 .220 .030 .030 .030 .100 .075 .061 .120 .104 .073 .1*8 .0.50 .0.50 .140 .14.5 .14.5 .145 .145 .060 .100 .110 .063 .063 .0P.3 .063 .030 . 033 .07fi .063 .060 .0.50 .060 .120 .070 .0.50 .0.50 .050 .060 .a50 .070 .070 .070 .070 .070 .070 Wind- ing and knitting. $0,221 .221 .160 .090 .120 .145 .125 .060 .070 .100 .138 .138 .148 .040 .075 .040 .100 .a50 .120 .120 .220 .170 .170 .150 .095 .120 .135 .250 .160 .325 .200 .350 .160 .160 .100 .100 .065 .175 .205 .120 .183 .155 .175 .100 .060 .090 .145 .195 .130 .135 .135 .180 .180 .150 .150 .150 .165 .165 .200 .240 .173 .055 .205 .200 .110 .150 .150 .160 .230 .150 .150 .160 .100 .100 .125 .130 .055 .055 . 055 155 Loop- ing. $0.a50 .050 .050 .060 .070 .075 .085 .060 .060 .065 .070 .080 .070 .070 .060 .050 .050 .060 .070 .070 .060 .030 .052 .050 .050 .080 .080 .080 .080 .075 .075 .075 .075 .050 .050 .050 .090 .080 .080 .080 .060 .080 .080 .070 .070 .070 .070 .070 .080 .080 .080 .080 .080 .070 .070 .070 .070 .080 .070 .070 .060 .080 .080 .048 .050 .070 .050 .070 .070 .070 .070 .085 .060 .070 .085 ,045 Sew- ing, 10. 035 a35 035 .020 .020 .020 .030 .030 .020 .030 .040 .010 .010 .030 .035 .015 .035 .010 .018 .025 .0.30 .025 .052 .020 .020 .025 Finish- ing. Total. o Gross price of one dozen pairs sold to jobbers or commission bouses. $0,078 $0. -m .043 .m .045 .ZM .065 .220 .065 .2J5 .065 .280 .065 .250 .125 .355 .145 .395 .195 .565 .090 .368 .088 .348 .095 .3^3 .090 .295 .100 .350 .100 .305 .1.34 ..5.54 .114 .319 .065 .295 .062 .282 .095 .465 .100 ..390 .100 .450 .105 .465 .090 .265 .105 .340 .100 .365 .095 .435 .120 .470 .110 .590 .220 .660 .200 .810 .118 .443 .133 .55S .143 .428 .163 ..593 .085 .245 .095 .3.50 .095 .3S0 .1.50 .495 .115 .46.1 .167 .463 .230 .m .138 .420 .218 .4.56 .236 .,584 .045 ..310 .045 ..360 .140 .480 .170 ..520 .170 ..520 .180 .m .180 ..58.5 .150 .440 .150 .480 .150 .490 .077 .375 .077 .375 .077 .410 .087 .460 .142 . 42.5 .137 .330 .152 ..503 .145 ..5.30 .130 .360 .190 .470 .250 . ,540 .097 .425 .098 . .44S .118 .m .118 ..36,8 .098 .378 .135 . 365 .163 ..383 .110 .375 .108 .393 .118 ..323 .120 . .335 .113 ..348 .118 .388 Table 57. — Details of Cost op Direct Labor, Per Dozen Pairs of Hose, by Establishments and Styles — Continued. Estab- lish- ments. 60.. 61.. 61.. 61.. 61.. 61.. 61.. 61.. 62.. 62.. 66.. 66.. 66.. 66.. 67.. 67.. 67.. 68.. 68.. 68.. 68.. 68., 69., 69., 69., 70. 70. 70. 70. 70. 70. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 71. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 72. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. 73. Style. G A B C D E F G A B A B C D A B C A B C D E A B C D E F A B C D E F A B C D E F G H I J K L A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R A B C D E F G H I .T K L M Seamless or full fashioned. Seamless do do do ■ * > ■ ■ vftxF •••••«>* > • • > v^Av •■••••*» • ■■ ■ * * VIU •••«*■•* do do do do • ■ « a • \Aw ••■••••• ■ * * » * ^l^^ *• ««•**« > a a > ■ V»W ••••••>> • * « a a V&\# •• •vvvaa do a • a a a \X V •••••*•■ » » » m mXJLKM ■•••■«*a ■ » • a a vLU •••*•*•• a • a • aXAv •••••••• a a a a • vlV^ ••••••aa • a a a • VlV' ••••••a* • • a • • vL\^ ••••••aa a a a a • VXw ••••••aa do a a a • aXX^^ •••••■•a • • a a • VX V •••••••a do do do • a ■ • • vAW •••■•••a do a • • • • \X V «■••••■• a a a « * \A\^ ••••••a* do a • a a a V&V ••••••aa • a a • • XjIw ••■••aaa Full fashioned • ~ ^ » m \Xv ■•••aaaa ^ m ^ m » \m\M ■•••••aa m m m 9 » \A\/ ■•••«••• • a » m » \A\f •••••••■ ^ ^ m m m \JL\M •••••••• Seamless a • a a a Vlw ••••••aa a • a • a \X\/ •••••■•a do a a a a • \AVf •••••••a do • a a a • ^X V •• •••••• a a a • axXV/ ••••»••■ 9 m » m 9 \^\f ••■••••■ do a a a a a XAVr ••■•«••• do a « • • cXXV •••••••■ • » m m ^ \X\^ •••■••aa do • • a • • \a&\/ •••■••«■ a a a • a ^X V ••■■■■•■ > • • • a U V ••««*aaa do a a a • a V&\J ••••■«aa » m » m ^ \X\^ •••waaaa a a a a a ^Xv/ •••••aaa ■ a a a • VAU aaaaaaai Full fashioned m m » » » \A\J aaa*»aaa • a a • a \Xv •••••••■ Seamless do a a a a a VA V •••«*aaa a a a a a VE\/ ••••■••■ do Local- ity. West.. . .do . . . . .do . . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . , East.. . . .do . ...do. . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . do. . . .do . . . -do . .. .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . — do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . ...do . . . .do . . . .do . .. .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . -do . do . . . .do . — do . . . .do . . . .do . — do . do . . . .do . . . .do . ...do. . . .do. . . .do . West. . . .do . . . .do . do . . . .do . . . .do . ...do. ...do . ...do. ...do. . . .do . . . .do . do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . do . . . .do . ...do . . . .do . do . ...do. . . .do . . . .do . — do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . . . .do . Gross price of one dozen pairs to retailers. Cost of direct labor. o, o. o. o. a. $2,050 2.150 2.750 4.250 2.900 4.250 2.900 2.900 a. 520 0.625 850 850 850 850 950 O.950 ol.OOO 1.000 1.000 .950 1.000 1.850 1.700 1.050 01.900 1.250 1.050 O.650 1.650 1.600 1.550 1.750 o 1. 575 01.750 Ol Ol a ol Ol 000 800 875 750 900 1.600 3.750 03. 625 03. 600 o 1.800 03.375 03.375 1.250 2.150 2.250 2.750 4.250 1.150 1.400 2.100 2.250 1.900 2.100 .875 1.100 2.100 2.150 2.150 2.250 2.250 2.050 1.100 2.000 2.150 2.150 4.250 4.250 2.150 2.000 1.100 2.150 1.250 2.000 Bleach- ing or dyeing. $0,070 .040 .040 .040 .070 .070 .090 .110 .070 .055 .040 .035 .020 .020 .030 .044 .025 .040 .030 .026 .008 .055 .065 .065 .090 .080 .090 .077 .088 .052 .030 .150 .127 .029 .030 .015 .084 .071 .083 .064 .061 .108 .048 .063 .040 .059 Wind- ing and knitting. .074 .045 .080 .044 .056 .068 .074 .052 .062 .071 .072 .074 .096 .121 .074 .092 .101 ,153 $0,125 .150 .150 .180 .080 .100 .240 .200 .020 .040 .110 .110 .110 .110 .117 .117 .117 .125 .135 .118 .118 .145 .149 .142 .179 .173 .132 .109 .170 .150 .150 .143 .143 .185 .100 .105 .106 .111 .155 .053 .488 .452 .557 .470 .450 .450 .040 .247 .242 .252 .042 .113 .163 .209 .239 .178 .209 .093 .120 .161 .114 .197 .155 .105 .140 .120 .164 .164 .065 .595 .492 .427 .162 .137 .220 .137 .137 Loop- ing. $0 070 070 .070 .080 .070 .070 .060 .060 .aw .053 .053 .053 .045 .045 .050 .060 .060 .a50 .WW .080 .077 .057 .0.57 .a57 .067 .040 .070 .055 .055 .050 .a50 .050 .040 .050 .045 .060 .060 .060 .0.53 .0.53 .a58 .053 .053 .053 .a50 .050 .050 .050 .070 .045 .045 .050 .a50 .050 .050 .o;j3 .040 .050 .040 .070 .060 .040 .073 .051 .094 .089 .086 .084 .078 .074 .055 .047 .060 .047 .047 Sew- ing. $0,020 .020 .020 .020 .060 .060 .080 .060 .038 .038 .018 .045 Finish- ing. .030 .075 .075 .065 $0,110 .130 .140 .140 .140 .140 .140 .140 .070 .080 .082 .082 .082 .082 .068 .068 .069 .100 .100 .122 .122 .120 .105 .108 .116 .115 .102 .099 .095 .095 .095 .095 .095 .095 .130 .149 .111 .161 .126 .134 .!» .141 .174 .155 .137 .126 .089 .057 .049 .087 .102 .078 .077 .082 .082 .077 .077 .017 .049 .075 .072 .100 .116 .063 .106 .102 .119 .092 .121 .198 .187 .175 .119 .085 .095 .089 .095 Total. $0,375 .390 .400 .450 .380 .400 .530 .510 .180 .195 .245 .245 .245 .245 .230 .230 .236 .325 .330 .310 .310 .375 .00 .332 .392 .375 .327 .256 .390 .365 .365 .378 .368 .420 .347 .392 .314 .362 .491 .374 .757 .706 .898 .738 .708 .682 .281 .425 .424 .453 .348 .297 .389 .434 .345 .395 .143 .283 .331 .306 .411 .377 .276 .393 .325 .439 .416 .374 .026 .832 .837 .457 .343 .467 .374 .432 o Gross price of one dozen pairs sold to jobbers or commission houses. 9963°— 15- -10 MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 147 CHAPTER IV. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. MANUFACTUEINQ CONDITIONS. When hosiery manufacturers who complained thai the industry was not in a prosperous condition were questioned as to the cause, inany of them placed the blame on the retailers. Years ago the retail i)rico8 of hosiery became fixed at certain amounts, usually 12^ cents, 25 rents, 50 cents, 75 cents, $1, $1.50, and $2 per pair. The amount of hosiery retailed at other figures, except in reduction sales, is smaU. Tlu> pubhc has become educated to these certain fixed prices, and if the first retail prices are different, there are suspicions tliat the goods are seconds or are damaged in some way. Manufacturers allege that the cost of retail distribution has greatly increased during recent years, especially the expenses for clerk hire, rent, store equipment, advertising, and dehvery service. His ex- penses being larger, the retailer, to make the same percentage of profit as formerly, must buy his goods cheaper. As the standard prices of hosiery prevent him from retailing certain grades at higher prices, he forces the manufacturer to sell to him cheaper. Often this is done by getting a sample and a bid on an order from one manu- facturer, and submitting the sample to other manufacturers for bids, the lowest, of course, being ac((^pted. In this way the manu- facturers are brought into severe com[)etition with one another, and it is most severe when they are dealing with a very large jobber or retailer or with a chain of connected stores. In recent years there has been a tendency in the direction of combinations of i-etail stores in the same city or in different cities. The hosiery manufacturer who is forced by trade conditions to accept less for his product has nobody to whom he can transf(»r the loss. On the contrary, his expenses have increased. During the last few years before the war in Europe began, the average price of cotton increased several cents a pound, and cotton yarns increased propor- tionately. The manufacturer must bear the entire burden of tlio increased cost of the raw material. The demands of workers have been more and more exacting, and wages have increased, while th(^ number of working hours has been reduced. The laws against chil- dren working have become more rigid and have been more strictly enforced. In many States the manufacturer has had to spend more money to comply with the requirements regarding sanitation and safety devices. In many States, also, workmen's compensation acts have been passed, which amount to a considerable tax on manufac- turers. In an efficient plant new machinery must be constantly purchased, and the demand for finer goods has made the purchase of new machinery more necessary. During the last few years, therefore, hosiery manufacturers have been in an unfortunate position, witli their cost of manufacturing increased and the prict^s at which they must sell decreased. This condition has led to ruinous competition among them. 146 Many manufacturers are discouraged by these conditions and do not know how to remedy them. Some of them say that the only way to protect themselves against the jobbers and retailers that force manu- facturers to come to their own terms is for the manufacturers to combine and establish a centrally controlled selling agency, but it is admitted that this plan is impracticable because it would conflict with Federal antitrust laws. The National Association of Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers, with headquarters at Philadelphia, Pa., is composed largely of ho- siery manufacturers. It holds annual conventions and discusses matters relating to manufacturing and trading conditions in the in- dustry. But no combination, or at least no successful combination, of hosiery manufacturers to fix prices has ever been made, and, as before stated, the competition between manufacturers is severe. The impression that one receives in talking with hosiery manufacturers is that they are very distrustful of one another. The condition in the industry caused by the manufacturer having increased expenses and not being able to contend against falling prices paid by his customers, l^he jobbers and retailers, has caused nim in some cases to make hosiery in lighter weights and reduced lengths,^ and also to knit the hosiery more loosely, thus saving the difference in the cost of raw material. If wool is used, a smaller proportion of it is used. The result is that the consumer secures an inferior article with- out any reduction in the price that he pays to the retailer. There is a slight tendency toward larger factories in the hosiery and knit-goods industries. As shown by Table 2, on page 12, of this report, in 1899 there were 1,006 such factories with 83,691 employees, an average of 83 employees per establishment, while 10 years later there were 1,374 factories with 129,275 employees, an average of 94 employees. One thing that limits the growth of factories is the scar- city of labor. When aU the suitable labor near a factory has been utilized, the establishment, if it is enlarged, must start other factories or branches in other localities. LARGE AND SMALL FACTORIES CONTRASTED. There is a difference of opinion as to whether large or small factories can be managed more successfully. Many manufacturers were inter- viewed on this subject. Some of them said that competition is so strong on staple goods that a big production is necessary to make a profit. Some said that system, efficiencv, division of labor, and good labor conditions can best be developed in the large factory. One said that the great success of the knitting industry in Germany during recent years was due to the fact that very large factories had developed there. Another said : The tendency in the business is toward large factories. A large plant on account of buying in large quantities can always beat its small competitor in prices, and on account oj greater production can afford to take a narrower margin of profit. A large corporation also has an ad\^ntage over the smaller concerns in selling. The large factory with its greater capital is enabled to do more advertising and can do its own selling, while the smaller companies are dependent on agents and jobbers to dispose of their production. Some manufacturers contend that the small factory, which is of necessity under closer personal supervision, can be operated with a greater proportion of profit than the larger factory. One manu- facturer expressed this opinion: The tendency in knitting mills is toward larger factories, both by the natural growth of the smaller ones and by consolidation. The advantages of the larger factories are 148 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 149 problematicaL The larger output to a certain extent reduces the fixed overhead charges; but the larger factories are at a disadvantage from th«> fact that thcv must to a great extent depend on hired labor to do the work that in wnaller plants is done by the owners. The personal equation, the intense interest of the owner who reaps the sole benefit of success in his plant, is lost in too large an institution. The data secured from establishments during this investigation were grouped according to the products of the establishments, and to some extent according to their locations. The data in each group were arranged in the order of the net sales of the establishments, the one with the smallest sales first and the one with the largest sales last. An examination of Table 25, page 56, showing the percent- ages of profit on net sales by establishments and groups, showH that there were no decided differences in the percentages of profit between the smaller and the larger establishments for each group. The fact that the crude cost-finding systems whicn are so prevalent in the hosiery industry lead to unintelligent price making and cut- throat competition is discussed in sections of the report headed * 'Inadequate cost-finding methods" and ''Simplified cost accounting.' A manufacturer who was interviewed said that it was not so much foreign competition that was hurting the hosiery business, but rather fierce domestic competition. The seamless hosiery business is pecu- liar in the fact that it does not require a great outlay of capital to be able to undertake it. Any person with a capital of $500 or $1,000 can buy a few machines by making a small cash payment, rent a room, and start a seamless-hosiery plant. Hundrc^ds of such ])lants have sprung up all over the country in recent years and of course this has had its effect upon the business. Table 58 shows the number of new hosiery and other knit-goods mills which went into operation hi 1914, according to Davi^ reason of highly efficient methods of production. The form of competition which is most dreaded, however, is that of the man who, having no proper knowledge of cost, sets prices which preclude the possibility of there being an adequate profit in the business for anyone. The natural accumulative effect of this unintelligent competition was really the prime factor in causing the formation of associations in various lines, with the conse- quent agreements relative to sales prices. Recent legislation, however, has tabooed these selling agreements, and manufacturers find themselves contending with the same old discouraging competition. Despite this fact this legislation has been a beneficial move in that it has forced manufacturers to approach the problem from an entirely different angle, namely, uniform cost-finding methods. No matter how inany selling agreements might be in force, the e\'il of manufacturing some portion of the product at a loss would still be in evidence without an exact knowledge of final costs. Absence of this knowledge forces a manufacturer to govern his selling price a Textile Manufacturers Journal, May 16, 1914, p. 35. 15^ THfi HOSIERY INDUSTRY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 153 by that of his competitor. His competitor is just as liable to be producing at a loss in fact more so, as the natural law of competition has a tendency to lower selling? pri(«4 from year to year, due to the sending out of leaders with an attnw tive price attached and the almost utter impossibility of getting that price back to its onginal figure. ' That is true in your line as well as many otliers. A number of industries, howevt^r, have awakened to the fact that it is business suicide to continue as tliey ha^'e been doing, and through the activity of their association officers have adopted a correcti\ e measure in the shape of uniform-cost methods. Wherever this measure has hem adopted the desired results have been immediately and almost automatically attained No manufacturer will continue to produce a line of goods in the face of conclusiAe proof that he is exchanging a dollar for 80 or 90 cents. The manufacturer of knit goods tonday faces the combination of advancing cost^ on material, labor, and expense, together with the keenest sort of competition on the selling end of the business. Under such cir( umstances profitH woula undoubtedly be sufficiently reduced if all competition were based on an exact knowledge of costs. In the absence of such knowledge it is not surprising that conditions are far from desirable. If we were able to make a canvass of the entire industry we would find a large number of manufacturers who would cheerfully admit their ignorance of this impor- tant matter and who would at the same time defend themselves by claiming that the clerical cost to be incurred in determining manufactiuing costa would be in itself BO great as to be prohibitive. We, in turn, cheerfully admit that cost finding, like any other good thing, can be and is c;arried too far. But for every manufacturer who goes too far into the matter there are hundreds who do not go far enough. This ia notably the case in the knit-goods industry. This fear of overelaboration in details and consequent excess of clerical cost is largely responsible for the conditions which exist in the industry along thiw line. Yet, despite the fact that there are refinements of cost keeping, which are j)rofitle88, there is a happy medium of cost knowledge which all who expect to survive must in time acquire. We accept the pound and the yard as units of weight and mesisure, and yet as we use them in business they give us results only within a reasonable degree of precision. In the same way it is possible to devise for any business a method of determining cost, which, while free from hair-splitting distinctions, will give wholly acceptable results with clerical economy. * * * This question of costs is not one of merely academic interest. It is, as a little thought will show, a matter of real concern, for if costs are to be utilized to the greatest extent as guides to executive judgment, the cost of each article must be calculated so accurately as to reflect its individual status as a profit earner. From the standpoint of the individual manufacturer the adoption of uniform cost methods merely marks the primary step in efficiency. Unquestionably uniform costs mean the survival of the fit, or, in other words, the survival of the efficient. With a logical basis, however, on which to operate and the knowledge that if a com- petitor is underselling, it is because he is a better executive and has a more efficient mill, the manufacturer finds himself with something tangible to work upon. It then behooves him to study his own costs and determine just where it is lacking. ♦» In this investigation reports were secured from many establish- ments haying different cost-finding systems, and in compiUng the statistics it was necessary^ of course, that the overliead charges on all units shcmld be computed on a uniform basis, in order that the costs of units should be comparable. The cost of materials and the cost of direct labor are as stated by the manufacturer that furnished information, and doubtless are as correct as they cotdd be given. The indirect labor and factory ex- pense were computed on the basis of the direct labor to which they are closely related. But the cost of administration and the cost to sell were computed on the basis of the net sales, which is a definite sum and to which they are related. This method is explained under ^^The dual system/' on page 156 of this report. The overhead for indirect labor and for factory expense was computed on the basis of the direct labor, and the overhead for administrative and selling cost was computed on the selling price. a Textile Manulacturers Journal, May 16, 1914, pp. 57-68. SIMPLIFIED COST ACCOTTNTINO. o The object of conducting business is to secure profits. Nothing that relates to manufactiu-ing is of more importance than *' costing." Efficiency rules may be applied in an excellently ec[uipped factory, but, unless the proprietor has an adequate cost-finding system, he is liable to suffer financial loss. If he does not know, with a close degree of accuracy, what the different articles he manufactures have cost, and at what prices he can afford to sell them, he is not in a posi- tion to meet competition intelligently, and he invites business dis- aster. Under conditions as they existed formerly, he may have been satisfied with the profit earned on his whole fine of products, as shown by his profit and loss statement, but in these daj^s there is the keenest competition in almost every fine of manufacturing, and the survival of the fittest is the inexorable law of the business world. Even if a manufacturer is satisfied with his yearly profit which his balance sheet shows, he should know on which particular products he is making the most profit, and on which he is making only a narrow margin of profit or losing money. InteUigent costing would enable him to distinguish between the profits on different products, to dis- continue the manufacture of products sold at a loss, to limit the sales of products on a small margin of profit, and to give more attention to the manufacture and marketing of products on which the largest profits are reahzed. Cost accounting is especially important for manufacturers with small or comparatively small capital, in order that they may meet the severe competition of those who manufacture on an extensive scale. As a rule, the large manufacturers have, not only the most improved machinery and most efficient methods of production, but also very accurate cost-finding systems. The comparatively small manufacturers have not been so slow in equipping their factories with up-to-date machinery and in adopting efficiency rules as they have been in planning a system by which they could know the actual costs of their different units of production. Any investigation of this matter which may be made will show that an amazing number of American manufacturers have practically no costing system or only the crudest sorts of systems. Most manufacturers know the cost of materials and the direct labor cost for each unit of production, but do not intelUgently distribute the general expense or "burden," or, as it is commonly termed, the '' over- head." Many of them add to the material and labor cost for each unit what they think, iudgm^ from past experience, the charge for overhead should be and fix prices accordingly; but if they manufac- ture any variety of products such guesswork will surely lead to a diminution of profit or to financial loss. In recent years the profession of cost accoimting has developed, but the small manufacturers, constituting much the larger number, have been much more backward than the large producers in adopting the methods of this branch of efficiency. They complam of the keenness of competition, yet do not avail themselves of a costing system which would show on which articles they could meet competition and on which articles they could not. Perhaps the principal reason for this o This section appeared in the Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science, Sep- tember, 1915, pp. 16&-173. 154 THE HOSIERY INDUSTEY. backwardness on the part of the sjudl manufacturers i^ fh«f ih thmk they can not afford to pay the f^es S a?e cha^^^ THE QUANTITY METHOD. Burden^a«t^period _ Number of unitsproduced^'^"^^^*'^* ^^ biu-den per urdt. direct laborsf n nnn ti. i? J ** '"'^'^ '"atenals cost $50,000 and tho in nnn ,, -f *'^"'°"0' **?« burden amounted to $20,000 If therflf..™ woS be S2' "oJ" P'"°^",T'^ "^"""g t^*^^ P«"od, the burden for S MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 155 This method of costing is the simplest of all methods, and where only one kind of goods is manufactured it is the most accurate of all systems. A concern that manufactures only one kind of typewriter, for instance, would not need a more perfect system; but obviously this method is very defective if apphed in a factory where goods of varying values are produced. THE DIRECT-LABOR METHOD. By this method the burden charge is made on the basis of the cost of the direct labor for the unit, 'in the proportion of the total cost of direct labor to the total amount of burden during the preceding period. This may be expressed as follows: Burden, last period _ ^ , i. i Direct-labor pay roir ^^^ ^^* ^^ ^^^^^ P^' ^^^*- If during the last period the total direct-labor cost amounted to $30,000 and the burden to $20,000, a charge of 66.67 per cent of the direct-labor cost of the unit should be made for burden — that is, should be added to the cost of materials and direct labor for the unit. Where imits are produced which differ in labor cost, this method is much more accuratie than the quantity method, but it is defective where raw materials of different values are used in different imits, for the reason that under it the more expensive grades of goods would not carry their proper proportion of burden. THE PRIME-COST METHOD. By prime cost is meant the sum of the cost of raw materials and of direct labor. By this method the burden charge is made on the basis of the sum of the cost of raw materials and direct labor for the imit, in the proportion of the total cost of raw materials and direct labor to the total amount of burden during the preceding period. This may be expressed as follows : Burden, last period _ ^ ^ , , Raw materials plus diiect-labor pay roll=^^^ ^^^* «^ ^^^^^^ P^^ ^^t' If during the last period the cost of raw materials amounted to $50,000, the cost of direct labor to $30,000, a total of $80,000, and the burden amounted to $20,000, a charge of 25 per cent ($20,000 4- $80,000) of the prune cost of the unit would be made for the burden — that is, should oe added to the prime cost. This method provides for the distribution of the burden on the unit much more accurately than the quantity method, where materials of different values are used in different units, or where more labor is employed on some units than on others ; and this method is more accu- rate than the direct-labor method, where materials of different values are used. In costing by any method a charge should be made agamst the cost of the unit to cover the average loss from waste and seconds. Any of the three methods which have been described are easy of application even by clerks who have Httle accounting experience. Another method is, however, recommended as more accurate and nearly as simple. For want of a better designation, it may be termed the ''dual method." 156 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 157 THE DUAL METHOD. The prime cost method is accurate for computing the burden on umts which vary m the cost of materials and the cost of labor only When durmg the last busmess period tlie value of the products equaled the amount of the net sales. There would be an inaccuracy if the net sales amounted to more or less than the production, because the burden for the cost to sell should be computed on the amount of the net sales and not on the production. By the dual method the ratio of burden for the unit is computed on the prime cost, during the preceding period, for indirect labor and for factory expense, because these portions of the burden are rc^atod to the amount of the production, but the seUing expense is computed not on the amount of production but on the amount of the net sales ihe ratio of burden for administrative expense is also computed on the amount of net sales as the base, because administrative ex])ense is nerhaps more nearly related to the amount of net sales than to the value of the production, though this may differ in different industries If, for example, the expenses during the last period were $50,000 J'J^^^^'^^^^''^^^^ $30,000 for du-ect labor, $4,000 for indirect labor, i^'nnn / ^ ^?,^*^^ cxpenso, $6,000 for administrative expense, and $7,000 for selbng expense, making a total of $100,000, but if the net sales amounted to $110,000, the percentage of burden for the unit would be computed as shown in the following illustration: Expenses, last period. Per cent of burden for unit. Rawmatenals $50,000 Direct labor 30^ qq^ T A' ^^ecost 80,000 indirect labor 4 qqq 5. 00 ($4,000-4- $80,000) Adr^n^J^?fvT 3,000 3.75 $3 000-4- $80 500 SemZ^e^nl ^^""^ 6,000 5.45 $6,000-4-$lJO 000 belling expense 7, 000 6.H6 ($7,000-4-$110,000) T^ , f^^^ 100,000 ^et sales 110,000 These percentages are used to find the burden for a unit which is intended to be sold at $10, for instance, and the cost of which for raw materials $4.25 and for direct labor $2.55, as illustrated below: Raw materials ^4 25 Direct labor ..\\.\\.[\\V...[. 2.55 Prime cost g gQ Indirect labor :.;:;:;::;;;: .34 (5percentof$6.80) AHSr??"""^ 255 3.75 percent of $6 80) i^m^f^^Z^''^^'''^ ^S 5.45 por cent of $10) ^ wiit^^ ^ 636 (6.36 percent of $10 S^nds ^^ (e.g., 1 per cent of $4.25) ^^°^**^ 068 (e.g., 1 per cent of 16.80) Total cost 8 g9 ^^^^ .'-.**.".*.'.*.■ 1.31 (13.1 per cent of $10) Selling price iq. oo As a matter of fact most goods are manufactured to sell at certain prices, which are determined in advance, and if the specification for raw material and for labor are found to be too high to allow a fair protit at the determined price cheaper material or less labor is used. The dual method may be varied by basing the percentage of burden for indirect labor and f actorv expense on the direct labor cost, instead of the prime cost, and it is claimed that for some industries, where the materials used differ but little in cost per unit, this modified method is more satisfactory. In order to compute the burden by the dual method, accounts should be kept for the foregoing mentioned items, and they may be subdivided as appears below: Raw materials. Direct labor: Wages of all employees in manu- facturing occupations. Paid to contractors. Paid to home workers. Total direct labor. Indirect labor: Salaries of ofl&cials, chargeable to manufacturing. Wages of factory superintendent and foremen. Wages of designers. Wages of employees in sample de- partment. Wages of other general help-machin- ist, clerks in factory, (not general office), floor boys and girls, etc. (not including engineer and fireman). Total indirect labor. Factory expense: Rent of space used for manufactur- ing and shipping departments. Power, heat (or fuel and wages of engineer and fireman), light, and water. Repairs on equipment. Depreciation of equipment. Fire insurance. Workmen's compensation or em- ployers' liability. Welfare work. State, county, township, and munici- Sgil taxes, er factory expense. Total factory expense. Such accounts can be kept very easily if a specially ruled book is used. Some of the items under factory expense might not im- properly be entered under cost of administration, their placement being a matter of opinion, but as these items are usually small, the result in computing the burden on a unit would be little if any affected by a transfer of them from one account to another. In computing the proportion of burden for the unit on the basis of production and net sales during the preceding business period, the results would be more accurate if the profit and loss statement were made semiannually, instead of annually, and still more accurate if such a statement *^were made quarterly. In making computations by any method it should be borne in mind that the cost of materials and direct labor, while usually the largest elements of cost, are those which are most hable to fluctuation, and in calculating the burden on the basis of the last period the differences in the cost of materials and direct labor at that time and at the time the computation is made should be taken into consideration. Cost of administration: Salaries of officials, not chargeable to indirect labor or cost to sell. Salaries of general office force and auditor. Rent of general office. Office supplies, stationery, postage, telegrams, telephones. Insurance — other kinds than fire. Expense of collection and legal serv- ice. Bad debts. Corporation tax. Other administrative expense. Total cost of administration. Cost to sell: Salaries of officials, chargeable to sales department. Salaries, commissions, traveling and general expense of salesmen. Wages of other employees in sales de- partment. Rent of showroom. Packing materials. Cartage and freight outward. Advertising. Other selling expense. Total selling expense. Waste and seconds: Loss from waste. Loss from seconds. Total. 158 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 159 When a manufacturer gets out new styles he must be particular! v careful in costmg if all or any of the direct labor is paid on the tim,:. rate basis. In makmg up samples for salesmen to take out on tho road he should make time studies of the several direct labor opcr-i tions, to ascertain as nearly as possible the du-ect labor cost per uni'i When the goods to fill the first ord.^rs received are manu/act urcl' he should check up his first computation by the cost to manufactur,: m quantities and if there is a difference he should adjust the sellin,, price per umt acscordingly. • If it should happen that his pri.'e for goods of a certain stvle, as given to the salesmen, is too low to afford a profit the eariier he checfe up his first calculation of the cost for that style the less money he will lose While all of the methods of costing which have bocm described are comparatively simple and inexpensive, and while for most factorios one of these methods would be foun.l entirely practicable and satis- factory It IS not claimed that for a highly organized factory, with many departments any of these m.'thods would be as accurate as one which would be adapted to the particular needs of the plant and which might be devised by cost accounting experts a/ter a complete, careful study of the factory conditions. In a highly organized estabhshment the departmental method of E' T"^ ^'■•^"'^ l^"?'** be adopted. Certain burden charge should be made against the whole production of the factory, certlin charges against the production of particular departments oAly and other charges in part against the production of the whole fakorv and in part against the production of particular departments. If 1 cotton mill, for instance, sells both yam and cloth, the fa.rtorv expense for the weave room or for the cost of indu-o.^t labor in that room should not be made a part of the burden on the product of the spinning room. In a printing plant tlie product that i^ printed only should not be charged with tie expense for the bindery department. SELLING METHODS. • ^'^""^u^^ manufacturers of hosiery sold their entire produ.'t to out in^tbrnnifa", q/ the present time the greater part of the out- put m the United States is still distributed through that channel STZbuHnn'^M"''"^ ^'' S'***"*"-^ ^'''^S away from this method ot distribution^nd each year more concerns are selling direct to the retail trade. This is particularly true in the West, and man fac- turers in that section are selUng the greater part of their nrodurt to retailers In the East and South t1,is condition is not'^^early ^ prevalent, and producers of hosiery still depend mainly on the jobber or commission house as a means of distribution ^ The cost of selling to the retail trade is very high as comoared i^ the haWt*o/ 't"^ *.^ '^t'''' ""','. * "lanuffctu,^. who Keen i^o* • u- of selhng to jobbers wiU consider a long time before ^te^ tV'. u^^"^ "'*'*,^**'^ <"^ ^'=''*»'"t of tlie greater expense in- l^I-f- ^*i^l^- '^T*^ y**^"^ *^ ''"'^'1 "P '^ stai1fa,-tory trade with retailers, and during these years the manufacturer must Lpect small and S^diS systeir'*""^ *"* °'^^**''' *" ^""^""^^^ '^'^"S orgWzation Further, in order successfully to reach the retailers the manufac- turer should advertise extensively, and this entails a heavy expense. These increased costs prevent small manufacturers of limited capital from attempting to seek the retail trade, and the larger concerns, particularly in the East, which have for years been selling to jobbers, hesitate to revolutionize their entire business by starting a new method of distribution. BRANDED HOSIERY. About 20 years ago a large Chicago retail store introduced the idea of branding their goods, and recently, since advertising has become so important a factor in selling, many jobbers have adopted trade- marks, which they advertise not only to the trade, but to the general public as well. One of the largest jobbing houses in the United States has its hosiery made in about 20 different factories and requires them to put its trade-mark on all these goods. The buying public is supposedly buying a standard product, but stockings made in different factories diner in quality. This method necessarily results in the manufacturer's identity being lost. He will not advertise, for he can not put his trade-mark on the goods. The branding of hosiery has resulted in a material change in selling methods. Large manufacturers are gradually giving up selling to jobbers and are devoting their attention to selhng to the retail trade exclusively. By selling to retailers they can adver- tise their own trade-marks and the public can be benefited by being able to buy standardized products. The public will be benefited inasmuch as the manufacturer's obligations imder such a selling system will not end with the selling oi the goods to the jobber. A brand being well known means that if the hosiery does not give satis- factory wear the manufacturer gets the blame and not the retailer. Therefore it is to the interest of the manufacturer who turns out branded hosiery to make his product conform to as high a standard as possible. Further, the retailer is benefited, for if the customer gets satisfactory service he will remember the brand and will return as a regular customer, not only on hosiery, but on other lines as well. In an address delivered before the annual convention of the National Association of Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers, held in Philadelphia, Pa., May 4-6, 1915, Mr. Charles Coolidge Parlin, manager of the division of commercial research of the Curtis Pub- lishing Co., had the following to say in regard to branded goods: In the department-store investigation, we asked 394 merchants their attitude on carrying branded merchandise. Two- thirds of these merchants replied favorably. These figures gain their significance from the fact that it was generally into the large cities and to the large merchants within those cities that we went. If we had asked 4,000 merchants the per cent of favorable replies would have been much higher, for snaall merchants in general are more favorable. Analyzing the objections, we found that 54 per cent objected because the margin is narrower in advertised lines, and 35 per cent objected on the ground of brand; that is, they preferred to sell their own private brands, which, in many cases, meant that their cost of doing business was so high that it was necessary to sell noncompetitive goods to get over the high cost of doing business. In general, the key to the attitude on advertised brands is cost of doing business — the higher the cost the less friendly the store to handling advertised goods. Now, costs vary according to three things: I. The larger the city the higher the cost. 160 THE HOSIERY INDUSTEY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 161 II. The farther from the eastern market the higher the cost. III. There are individual variations depending on the skill of the merchant and tliP grade of merchandise. Certain influences have been operating to make lai^e departm«iii t stores more friend iv to carrying advertised brands. ^ First, these stores want to stand in thtir own community as quality stores The patron asks the clerk for an advertised article and is sold one of the store's brand in its place. The next day the same thing happens with another clc^rk, and the third d;iv It happens a^m with still a different clerk. The patron says to herself, ''The articios I buy in this store have quality, but I read in the magazines that other articles are quality articles. She is likely to try them and between the two standards of quail tv may cease to be a patron of the store; that is, the store that wishes to maintain iia renu- tation as a quality store must be a fair declarer of quality. Second those stores that have an up-State trade find it necessary to carry and sc^ll advertised merchandise in order to hold the patronage of those customers who are outside the effective reach of their newspaper publicity. Third, and most important of all, is a realization of the necessity of volume and that volume can most readily be obtained by selling what the pwple want: that ia bv selling manufacturers' brands. ' ^ EXPENSE OF SELLING TO RETAILERS. The chief objection on the part of manufacturers in regard to sell- ing direct to retailers is the heavy expense necessary in order to reach this trade, the longer credits given, (he necessity of carrying a large and assorted stock of finished goods, and the liability to losses due to failures of customers. One reason why some hosiery manufac- turers have not been prosperous during recent years is that they have been trying to change from selling to jobbers to seUing to retail- ers. Such a change is an expensive process. Time and money must be spent m building up a sales force. Tlie trade of large retailers or of many small retailers must be secured, and a very expensive advertismg campaign must be indulged in. This lieavy cost of establishing a trade with retailers permits none but the largest manufacturers to enter into it, so that at the present time more hosiery is still sold to jobbers than to retailers. Following are expressions quoted from interviews with manufacturers in regard to selling to retailers and jobbers: We prefer to sell to the jobbing trade, as doing business with the retailers requires a great assortment and a variety of styles. The retailer wante greater cone essious and refuses to pay any more for the goods, even though the cost of yarn and the cost of labor have increased. Mills are selling more goods direct to retailers, but jobbers can not be eliminated as nulls are not equipped to get the small orders from small retailers and carry this class of trade mdefimtely, as payments from this trade are very slow. We make goods to order and sell to jobbers. We are trying to cultivate the fobbing trade. We must sell to department stores, but they get jobbers' prices. The tendency of the trade is toward selling to retailers. The jobber is essential to my business. In fact, he is the salvation of the small manu- facturer, as he carries the stock which the manufacturer can not afford to do The manufacturer with a small capital is, therefore, aided by the jobber who is orderin" quantities and sharing the risk of loss. He works on small and legitimate profits. Ihe retailer is the one who is making the great amount of profit, although he is n(»t allowing any great margin to the actual producer, i. e., the manufacturer The retailer s profits must necessarily be large, as his overhead expcmses are enormous. The tendency is to sell direct to retailers. When we sell to jobl)ers we do not make a permanent customer, but if we sell to a retai ler he will probably stick with us The jobber is going to be forced out in all lines of clothing, because every good retailer wants to buy direct. We have only one commission house and bind ourselves to deal with him exclu- sively. There are great possibilities lying in selling direct to retailers. If we were starting a new business we would surely sell direct. We prefer selling direct to retailers, and our trade is beet in the Gonall and medium- sized towns. We sell our product direct to the trade under a brand name. We think the tendency is to smaller orders. It has been customary for hosiery manufacturers to sell their output through the job- ber or commission house, but of late years it has become more general for the manu- facturer to sell direct to the retailer, especially if he has a trade-marked, advertised article. We prefer to sell to retailers exclusively and do so; we sell no goods whatever to the jobber, the principal reason being that we feel tJiat by having closer relations with the retailer ourselves we can hold his trade better and control our distribution more satisfactory, especially in the way of protecting exclusive agents in small towns. The tendency is markedly toward smaller orders, from the smallest dealer to the largest department store. This is due to two reasons: First, the new custom that merchants are adopting to carry as small a stock as possible, letting the manufacturer carry the stock for the dealer. The dealer is becoming more and more a "hand-to-mouth" buyer. The other reason is the parcel-post system, which makes it possible for the dealer to receive very small quantities of goods at a low transportation cost, whereas previously he was obliged to pay high express rates on a small quantity of goods. As to competition in prices, goods to-day have to be sold to the trade at as low a price as or lower than at any time in the history of the business, according to our best knowl- edge. This also covers the items of discounts, time, and dating allowances. We make contracts, November to January, for delivery May 1 and afterwards. We sell through a commission house. There are two ways of selling; the regular way carries a discount of 6 per cent, which means that payment is due November 1, but this is a trade with a cash discount. We can borrow money from our commission house at 6 per cent. From the above interviews, and from a table which follows, it will be seen that manufacturers distribute their products in three ways — to retailers, to jobbers, and through commission houses. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. As has been noted, the manufacturer who sells direct to the retailer is put to heavy selling expense, an expense much greater than would be required to market his goods if he sold to jobbers or through com- mission houses. Further, he has to manufacture and carry a much more diversified and larger stock of finished goods. He also has to wait longer for his money and undergoes a greater risk of loss through bad accounts. On the other hand, the manufacturer who sells to retailers receives higher prices for his goods, and once a line of cus- tomers has been estabhshed he is more certain to hold them than is the case when he deals with jobbers. Besides receiving higher prices, the producer who sells to retailers has a greater opportunity tor ex- panding and enlarging his business than one who ties himself up with jobbers or commission houses. The advantages in selling to jobbers or through commission houses are that the manufacturer who sells in this manner is relieved of great expense for actual selling and advertising, is not so liable to losses due to bad debts, and has the advantage of knowing ahead just about what his business for the year will be. Many jobbers and commission nouses will advance money to manufacturers, and this is a distinct advantage to the producer of limited capital. 9963"— 15 ^U 162 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. MANUFACTURING AND SELLING. 163 COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGES OF DIFFERENT METHODS. In his address delivered before the 1915 annual convention of the National Association of Hosiery and Underw^ear Manufacturers Mr. Charles Coolidge Parlin discussed the merchandising of hosiery and underwear. He divided merchandise into two classes — '^convenience goods" and "shopping lines" — described as follows: Convenience goods comprise notions, cottons under 15 cent* a yard, stockings for children, cheap underwear, and in general the lower end of woman's purchases. * * * Shopping lines in general comprise the upper end of woman's purchases — cloaisl and suits, carpets, millinery, the b(3tter grades of hosiery and underwear, and all those articles which a woman records on her mental shopping tabh't (which never forgete) and of which she defers the purchase until a trip to ner shopping center. Shopping lines are described as "sharply concentrated into a rela- tively smaD nmnber of cities and into a very small number of stores within each city, which we are accustomed to call department stores." Convenience goods are handled not only by the large st ores, but are sold by small suburban and rural stores distributed over a wide area. Mr. Parlin continues as follows : Hosiery and underwear partake of the characteristics of both convenience goods and shopping lines. The cheaper grades — that in. hosiery of 25 cente and under and under- wear of 50 cents per garment and lower — are convenience gootal of $2,094,000,000 for the total trade of the United States in dry goods and ladies' reaetween. In this class, if a merchant is a plunger by nature he buys large quantities and goes direct; if he is conservative, be keeps his sto< k down by buying from the jobber. Of course, large stores buy some things from the jobber; many smaller stores buy some things direct. If we offset one against the other and divide the 10 per cent of the middle class evenly, it gives us 48 per cent for direct channels an'°S ^^^'^ '"*«'-^«t ^"d other expense. a°e Zn^l .!, "P °" /M"*- ?onSe™i'»g «-^tra dating and special dis- counts, the manufacturer is placed in much the same position that tewrP'"' r "'^frf ^ cancellation. Rather than lose a customer k^o^n. ZK"^'**" '^""f'J'*" ^^'""^ -r «<"netimes verv unreasonable^ wZ hL^n his conipetitors are willing to meet the Hemands in the Hope thus to establish a new permanent account In an article published in the New York Times of March 21 1915 the following remedy for trade abuses is suggested: ' ' The only apparent cure for this sort of an abu«« is to have a cooperative or-rani vatmn n ffriT^r*^ under their direction an arbitration board madeTSer ,.f Sec.'d v™ nothwI?se thar^J^'**^ on manufacturing or of practical mSl n e^who woild d^ s^^ested ^ '""''' ^"P"'^' ^^ ''« '" *''« «■"?% "f tl'e organization fhli T**^ ^*''/*'* *¥*" ^y-^"^ ^*<^ ^"^n recently placing smaller orders than formerly and ordering more frequently.-" ^This Tuutious buWn^ has caused much uncertamty among manufacturers, particularly in A|riJ-May lOU?""' ^^^^^'^^S^^ quoted from iLit Goods'^for ^moBtliZed^eTitlr^I ^■\'^'^- ^°^' •^f ^"^"^ "« compelled to de,„and brunt ofTe risk IftW v'„^^'*'^ ^"^ impossible unless the manufacturers bear the riordei fromlh; bn™,^^^" * '" H"^^, ttey run the riek of not receiving stoclTnlrhinds'ofTe^Snrc^^^'r. " ''''' '" ''"""'*' ''"'^ '"«^^^<"« '^^^ t''' It is a, general complaint among manufacturers that tliere is no seaWs t''rL*"'T/^'?' '"^ '■^^.^'■'i*" '***«^ f""- the ..J.ening of each seasons trade. Interviews with them show that the ■ are very dis- tn^tful of one another in regard to adhering to any agreement When an agreement regarding an opening date is .rmde,^t T the staTnTn!ftT'°'' 1*^** '* 1^^.^ ^' ^-''^^^ ^y «°"i« manufacture!^ tbt c ^- * •*^^"'!^^^T",''^^*''"'' *^" fi'^ed time- An editorial on this subject in Knit Goods for April, 1915, says: ma^Tcl^esrev'nmvetX*",^''? '^^^"'" ^f''' ^^^o'**' '^° "»' ''^»"='« '^at in a ^ood many cases tney prove to be their own worst enemies. Thev have their associ^i innx and meetings and try to agree, for instance, on a lime to openVp the fliLTbuT hev fnd^'^t 'tat ''HeTiVf l*"'."^ ""Y *'^.:""« '" =t«^l ^ mVh onX'othe oni fTct ^„t ali^L l ""'.''"'^y a day when his competitor not only knows of this fim man ^te S iTabWn Ki\Pr»?' ff The buyer is not as mu< h interested",, the nrsi man as ne is liable to be a little later on wh.-u he knows what all are doine eme- cially in a tepid market like the present. Then, again, whatX th 'v do' Thf VTake blanket orders subject to confirmation when the buyer comes to New York He « ems ^alteRXi" ■iXtT^ni'rb'i^^'''?,?"'"^^^ ="» "^^ a ^ckel?uli oHhSZ^ tu!. „ ''™®'?.,.*''""'?^ef oil ne has to do his work all over again. If il isahiirhmarket Ttrcondkio^"arr?ecfd'd? '^"^"^' l^T ^ "*"' '" P^^ *« «"' man aifaratl: inese conditions are dendedly unsatisfactory to evervbodv concernpd Whnlp- gewlroor''^'" "'"'^ "'^' '^' "^^'^"^ '^' '^^ ^^^^^^^ pr^e'roducS^ CHAPTER V. PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. HOSIERY PEODTTCTS. The knit-goods industry is one of the main subdivisions of cotton manufacturing and includes all goods made from one or more con- tinuous threads into a web by a series of interlocking loops or stitches. Hosiery is that branch of the knit-goods industry which includes all coverings for the foot or leg. KINDS OF HOSIERY. Hosiery may be seamless, full fashioned, or cut up. Seamless hosiery is knit without seams on a circular machine. Full-fashioned hosiery is knit on a flat-frame machine and consists of shaped or fashioned pieces of selva^ed fabrics, which are closed by seaming and looping. Cut-up hosiery, of which very little is manufactured^ consists of a knitted fabric cut to shape by shears and then sewed together. Full-fashioned hosiery has an advantage in that it is more elastic and is knit to conform to the shape of the leg and foot, thereby insuring a perfectly fitting stocking. FuU-fashioned hosiery is more adaptable to varied designs and ornamentation. The sole rec- ommendation for seamless hosiery is the comfort resulting from the ab- sence of seams. About 90 per cent of all the hosiery manufactured in this country is seamless. Seamless hosiery is peculiarly American, the product of the American idea of manufacturing, namely, speed, production, and cheaper price. Seamless hosiery as a manufactured product had its beginning in America, and its rapid development in a great measure was due to the lack of the skilled help needed in the manufacturing of full-fashioned hosiery. Hosiery may be of cotton, merino, wool, worsted, silk, artificial silk, silk mixed with or plated upon some other yarn, and may be for men, women, children, or infants. HISTORY OF HOSIERY STYLES. Thirty-five years ago, when people wore heavy-weight, fuU-sleeved, and ankle-length imderwear, all hosiery, even for men, was made of wool or merino. As the public's ideas in regard to the health and sanitation of heavy underwear underwent a cTiange, these ideas were reflected upon hosiery. Cotton gradually began to supersede wool. It was more comfortable and cheaper. The only problem before the manufacturer was to make cotton hose that would last. As light- weight underwear became more and more the accepted mode, light- weight hosiery, made of finer yarns, came into vogue. The woolen 171 I 172 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. m stocking has nearly disappeared, and to-day is worn only by lumber- men and sportsmen and^m rural communities. ^ At the present tune there is a decided and popular demand for silk artificial silk, and silk-plated hosiery. From a luxury a few yea^ T^.'c^f ^t^™g,.^^ sdk hosiery has become a comkon practice. Ihe soft silky feeling that people enjoy so much, ihe modern craz. lor dancmg, necessitatmg the wearing of pumps, the tendency of men and women to wear tight-fitting clothing aid use low shoes all year round, haye given a startling accreleration to silk-hosiery manu- f acturmg. AU people can not afford pure sHk hosiery. The demaud for some sort of silk has led the manufacturei^ to resort to arti- hcial silk and silk-plated hosiery, and the manufacturers of cotton hosiery haye been compelled, m order to compete with the sHk-hose whh a luster^' ^ ^^ mercerized yams so as to produce a stockii^ Embroideiy, lace, insertion, and beading for ladies' hosiery is at the present time used to only a yery moderate degree, the m-eat DEMAND FOR SEAMLESS AND FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY. As between seamless and fuU-f ashioned hosiery, the women usu- aUy prefer the fuU-fashioned stocking. Full-fashioned sUk hosiery IS expensiye, but full-fashioned cotton hosiery is common, though its price IS as yet too high for uniyersal use. Men and children as a rule wear seamless hosiery, as its wearing qualities are better than the fuU fashioned though the fit is not so good and the sock on being washed loses its shape. Men and children, not caring about so per- lect a ht, haye contmued to wear seamless hosiery, though there is a fSJSned tr"'"''' '™^ ^''" '^'''' '^'^ 'P'"^"^ ^^"^^^^^^ ^ ^^^ HOSIERY IMPROVEMENTS. There haye been many recent improvements in hosiery, either in the bne of unprovrng the appearance or of getting longer wear Among them is a fuQ-fashioned seamless stocking; a seamless stockmg kmt with sprmg needles to produce a fabri<; as good as the full fashioned; an entn-ely seamless stocking, even the toe being knit on the machme; and separate feet which can be attached to the leg of any stocking when the original feet wear out. OriginaUy hosiery for men was made to be worn without garters. Ribbed tops came in so as to fit the leg better, but as a sock usually loses its elasticity after ^ s^«r^*.Pf ™d, gartere came into use for men. Supporters for women and children soon foUo wed. Since mercerized and silk hosiery hay(^ come mto vogue, the public has often eomplamed of the waste caused by the supporter tearing holes in the stockmgs. To remedy this one German manufacturer has brought out two new improvements adaptable especiaUy to women's hosiery. Fu^t, an additional garter welt which forms a constituent part of the stocking; and second, two loops, each 1 mch wide and 1 J inches long, on opposite sides of the stockmg. The loops are mtegral parts of the stocking and wear does not extend to the stocking proper. One American manufacturer has mtroduced half hose so made that the upper, elastic part of PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. 173 the sock holds it firmly m place without the aid of a garter. Another American manufacturer attaches a satin tab with a buttonhole m the center for the garter button. HOSIERY MACHINEBY. HISTORY. Knitting machinery both for hosiery and underwear started in 1589 with the invention in England of the stocking frame by William Lee. He saw the possibility of knitting at one operation the complete course, instead of a single loop, by bringing all of the loops forward simultaneously and casting them over a new corrugated thread. After some experimenting he accomplished this, and so we receiyed the hook form, or barbed bearded needle, which to this day is used in every country where the knitting industry is established. Meeting with no encouragement from the royal authorities, Lee moved to Rouen, France, and, though after his death his brother re- turned to England, the knitting industry had its beginnmg m France. Lee's final machine was full fashioning, had eight needles to the mch in width, and produced a plain web. Instead of one needle to hold the stationary loop while those in the moving row were being inserted, as in hand knitting, there were as many needles as loops in the breadth of the web, alternately forming and giving off loops. Tlie machine had hooked needles and an arrangement for closing the hook in the needle, so that one loop could be drawn through another. The revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, was probably the direct cause of the beginning of the knitting industry in Gennany, it having probably been established there by refugees from France. It began in Hesse, and thence spread to the Chemnitz district, where, because of the surrounding mountains with then- plentiful supply of the wood needed for the knitting frames, the industry became firmly established, and that district remains to-day the chief German center for hosiery and knit goods. ^ _ , ^ , , • . j xi. i, • In 1758 Jedidah Strutt, of Derby, England, mvented the hosiery machine which made a plain ribbed fabric, known to-day as the Derby rib. His invention was not an improvement on Lee's machme, but simply an addition. He left Lee's machine unaltered, but added to it a ribbing mechanism. The rib was accomplished by adding a second series of needles, placed at right angles to and between those on Lee's machine. r i • In 1764 Shaw, Morris, and Betts took out a patent for making eyelet holes in knitted fabrics by the use of needles. , ^ , . In 1769 Sam Wise took out a patent for changing the hand frame to a power frame by putting a revolving shaft m the lower part of the frame work which could be turned by any motor power. In 1775 the warp machine was invented, the credit of the invention being disputed, in the United States up to 1775 there were only 150 stocking frames, most of those being in Germantown, Pa. In 1777 William Betts invented a power frame, the needle bar movmg backward and forward and also upward, in order to press the needle against the fixed presser. .v i ^ i -4. In 1780, frames having been made wider, they were utilized to knit the web for shirts and drawers. 174 I i: THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. In 1786 George Holland, in London, introduced fleecy hosiery. This was done, without any additional mechanism, by variation in the manipulation of the frame at the lining courses. In 1789 an unknown inventor, by adding a press-off tackle, pro- duced broad ribs, and in the same year Rose, of Nottingham, invcmted thread carriers. In 1798 Decroix, in France, invented the circular knitting machine. In 1801 Hiram Flint invented the si)ring slur cock, which saved the adjustment of the slur cock for various qualities of work. In 1807 Dawson invented the unequal surface wheels for traversing purposes. The years 1810 to 1815 were very poor for frame-work knitting. The early effects of the substitution of machinery for hand labor generally resulted in great poverty for the working chisses. So-called manufacturers who owned knitting frames let them out to middlemen in town and country, and also supplied them with the yarn. The middleman had to pay the same price for having the work done as he received from the manufacturer, and hence ther(^ sprang uj) the system of rents and charges. The middleman charged the knitt(^r for needles, which the latter had to cast in lead bars, and also charged him for frame rent, for light and fuel, for imperfect work, etc. Riots were common; frame breaking and looting were frequently resorted to. Bv the year 1812 England, Ireland, and Scotland had 29,582 stocking-knittmg frames, France, 6,859, and Germany, 2,340. In six other countries of Europe and Armenia there were 3,990.« In 1816 Marc Brunei invented a circular knitting machine which made a tubular web. In the United States, up to 1831, Philadelphia and Germantown, Pa., were the only large centers for the manufacturmg of hosiery. In 1832 Egbert Egberts, at Cohoes, N. Y., for the first time success- fully produced a knit stocking web 28 inches wide. In 1838 Luke Barton invented a power frame with a horizontal moving needle bar, but the narrowing was still performed by hand. Formerly the whole stocking had been made on one frame ; afterwards it was made in parts, the leg first, usually with the heel, and then it was taken to a frame with smaller dimensions for knitting the foot. In 1847 Matthew Townsend, in England, invented the self-acting latch needle. This was the first practical alteration of Lee's original bearded needle. This needle consisted of a spoon-shaped latch, attached to the stem near the hook end by a pin. The eye of this needle was closed by a little latch instead of being pressecf together like the bearded or spring needle. Townsend died in Amc^rica. His new form of needle was to revolutionize the entire American knitting industry. In 1853 the circular latch-needle machine was introduced in Eng- land. In 1855 Aiken, an American, patented a needle-latcli regulator and yarn carrier which was adjustable to other machines. In 1856 Nopper and Fouquet patented, in Franc«% a large sinker wheel, with the presser and knocking-over cam insid<\ This was the real start of French circular knitting machinery. In 1857 Luke Barton, in England, introduced a self-acting, narrow- ing power frame. o William Felkin: History of tlie Machine- wrought Uosiery and Lace Manufatiture, pp. 437-438, PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. 175 In 1858 E. E. Kilbourne, an American, patented the first automatic machine for making full-fashioned goods. In 1860 William Goddard, of New York, patented a machine for the manufacture of seamless hosiery, or tubular knitted fabrics. In the same year William McNary, of Brooklyn, brought out a machine for producing the whole leg and foot of a seamless stocking by a contin- uous operation. In 1862 Tom Langham, of Philadelphia, patented a machine for making a circular ribbed fabric by a series of self-acting needles, made to operate a part on the inside and others on the outside. In 1863 I. W. Lamb, an American, invented a new type of machine, which consisted of two horizontal flat beds, but which soon was altered so that the beds inclined at right angles to each other and at about 45° to the horizontal. This type of machine is not to be con- fused with the flat full-fashioning machine of the Cotton type, a description of which follows shortly. The following table shows chronologically the important knitting inventions from Lee to Cotton: Table 63. — Brief Chronological List of Important Knitting Inventions. [Ernest Tompkins: The Science of Knitting, p. 265.] Invention. Date. Original knitting machine Rib machine Openwork Knit plush Power knitting machine Warp machine Fleece fabric Thread carriers Circular knitting machine Circular loop-wheel machine. . Mova])le bladed burr , Movable bladed burr with blades moving parallel to needles. Automatic or latch needle. . . Parallel needle upright knit- ting machine. Circular latch -needle knit- ting machine. Large jack-sinker burr Lamb knitting machine 1589 1758 1764 1767 1769 1775 1786 1789 1798 1808 1841 1847 1847 1849 1853 1856 1863 Inventor. William Lee. Jedidah Strutt and WilHam Woollatt. Thomas and John Morris, John and William Betts; also Fernando Shaw. Henry Hardy, Thomas Davies, Andrew Dorilla. Samuel Wise Disputed George Holland Residence. Calverton, Eng- land. Derby, England. England -do. .do. Rose. Decrotx-. Leroy Jacquin.. Fouquet. Authority. Matthew Townsend. . . Moses Mellor Thompson Nopper and Fouquet. . I. W. Lamb London, Eng- land. Nottingham, England. France Paris Troyes, France.. do Leicester, Eng- land. do .do. Germany United States. General. Abridgments British patents. Abridgments British gatents, Quilter and hamberlain. Abridgments British patents. Do. Various. Quilter and Chamber- lain. Do. Pierer's Lexicon. G. Willkomm. Franz Reh. Do. Quilter and Chamber- lain. Felkin. Quilter and Chamber- lain. G. Willkomm. Quilter and Chamber- lain. In 1864 William Cotton, in England, patented a flat-frame full- fashioning power machine, which has since been the standard for aU types of niU-f ashioning hosiery machines. It is known as the Cotton type machine. Cotton's machine had a vertical moving needle bar, the work being drawn off horizontally. It had bearded needles. The fabric produced was as elastic as that made by the other machines with double their output. It had fashioning points which, at the required intervals, took off certain of the selvaged loops and replaced them on the needles, either inward or outward, according 176 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. 177 to whether the fabric was to be narrowed or widened. Though Cot- ton's machine has been improved upon from time to time, he himself improving his original machines so as to produce ribbed fabrics, it remains in use to-day the same in principle as at the time of its invention. AMERICAN DEVELOPMENT OF HOSIERY' MAC^HINERY. ^ Cotton's machine brings us to the dividing point in the knitting mdustry of Europe and America. Europe accepted the Cotton type machme and devoted its entu-e energy to perfectmg if . On the other hand, America accepted the circular machine, principally of the latch-needle type, and all of the development of^the knitting ma- chmery in this country has been in that line. The invention of the latched needlt^ opened a new field to knitting- machine inventors. The first circular machines had the needles soldered into jacks. The latched n(H;dle is not an improvement as regards the quality of the fabric made; in fact, it does not make a fabric as good as the bearded or spring needle, but when a latch needle is used on a circular machine the production is very much greater. European manufacturers have looked to tlie improving of the fabric, to the shaping of the fabric, etc., with the result that they contmue to use the flat-frame spring-needle U-pe of machine Americans have always used more hosiery than prot)ably any other people, and so in this country it was a question not so much of shaping the fabric but of production and cheaper goods. The result has been that the American inventors generally have centered all their faculties on the circular latch-needle machine with its greater production and cheaper cost. All of their efforts were to increase the speed and the production. Also there was moi-e opportunity of selling cu-ciilar machinery, for, being much cheaper than the flat- frame machine, it enabled men of very small means to go into hosiery manufacturing, which they could not have done if manufacturing was to be done with a machine of the Cotton type, fhe expensiveness of which prohibited anyone but a wealthy man from utihzing it Before 1850 hosiery was chiefly the product of the knittmg needle plied by hand. ^ The' second half of the nineteenth century witnessed the emergence of hosiery manufacturing from the liousehold stage into a factory industry. "^ During the Civil War the Government purchased great quan- tities of heavy hosiery, thus giving a great impetus t(» factory manu- facturmg. *^ In 1851 Pepper brought out the first ribbing machine in this country. In 1855 Aiken patented a circular machine run by power but all the mechanism for shaping the stocking was controlh^.d by hand. J J Vi^xT^^* ^^ y^^^ appeared the inventions of Kilboume, God- dard, McNary,^ and Langham, previously described. In 1879 the ''Shaw" knitter appean^df, this being tlie first machine which caused the heel needles to be raised and lowered individually. Up to about 1880 most of the hosiery worn was cut hosiery Cut hosiery was made on bahnorals (round heads) in long tubes, cut in lengths, and feet cut in them and sewed on sewing machines. In 1889 Branson & Son, of Philadelphia, brought out an automatic seamless machine, circular and self-reciprocating, carrying half the needles out of action before commencing the heel and toe, narrowing and widening in the heel and toe by throwing the needles into and out of action and automatically inserting an extra splicing to reinforce the heel and toe. The earher macliine was only partly automatic, as prior and subsequent to the making of the heel and toe the machine had to be stoppedf, and when the fashioning stage was reached the needles had to be picked up by hand. This machine simply made the leg and foot of the stocking automatically, and when it came to the reciprocal part, which knit the heel and toe, it had to be stopped and started up by hand. The stitches in the gore of the heel and toe were made by the operator lifting up the needles by hand, one at a time. After the appearance of the branson machine, improve- ments in seamless knittmg machines went forward by leaps and bounds. After the Branson machine came on the market there began a great demand for cotton hosiery. Cotton was cheaper than wool and the cost of knitthig it was cheaper; it was better adapted for rapid moving machinery, and it was hghter and could be sold cheaper. Since Branson's day the problem of the hosiery machine inventor has been threefold — first, to increase production, which means a cheaper com- modity; second, to do away with skiQed labor; and third, to make a finer stocking, by putting into a comparatively cheap, seamless stock- ing aU of the fine fabric qualities of full-fashioned hosiery. rrevious to about 1890 very few of the colors that were used were fast dyes. Fancy striped hosiery was worn mostly. When aniline dyes were discovered they superseded logwood dyes. Since 1890 almost every five years has seen an important change in seamless-hosiery machinery. In 1890 seamless hosiery was maae on a semiautomatic machine of coarse gauges, with the cylinder and needles stationary and the cam rings and bobbins revolving. These machines usually contained from 84 to 108 needles. As will be readily understood, the more needles there are in the circumference of cylinders of the same diameter the finer will be the knitted fabric. By 1895 machinery became fully automatic as regards yarn changes and the gauges had gone up to 160 needles, and attachments had ap- peared for inserting high sphcing. By 1900 machines were made in still finer gauges and had more yarn changes. By 1905 still finer gauges were in use. Up to this time the general rule was a two yarn change. About 1907 began the evolution of the plated stocking. Yam changes had increased to four and five. This led to the revolving cyUnder, with its five and six yam changes, the bobbins and cams remaining stationary, the cylinder and needles revolving, which re- sulted in a finer appearing, more durable, and comparatively cheaper stockiug. A manufacturer was no longer compelled to use the same yam, either cheap or good, throughout his entire stocking, but could insert strong, heavy yarn in the heel and toe, could put a fine yam in the leg or ribbed part, and still a different yam in the sole. This resulted m the split foot. The split foot originally was a white bot- tom to take out the sweat dye, but machine manufacturers saw the 9963°— 15 ^12 178 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. opportunity for economy and improvement; for example, making a stocking with a silk top and mercerized sole, etc. Split foot to-day means a foot made of a different material in the upper and insti^p por- tion from that used in the sole portion, and is usually made on a special knitting machine. Though the revolving cyhnder was per- fected about 1907, it was not generally in use untu about 1910. SEAMLESS KNITTING MACHINE. The recognized standard seamless knitting machine of to-day is latch needle and circular and is of the revolving cyUndh department is much less than in the case of lower-grade yarn, and a considerable saving of expense is noted in the conversion of the h^h-grade material. In many cases where lack of profits has been shown in the yearly statemerit, examination of tlie methods in vogne in the mill will reveal that either one or both of the above-mentioned evils are prevalent; in fact, one is closely related to the other and in few instances is either encoimtered alone. The methods to be used in overcoming these profit-destroying evils must vary with the circumstances surrounding each individual case, but may be geTieralizely thi-ead ajid a two-thread yam. A 50 two-ply thread means two 50s twisted together into a single yam. A two-thread yam means two threads used as one, as, for example, in knitting a fabric it would be running two separate threads in each feed. The English yam count for cotton is 840 yards to the pound or hank, and for worsted 560 yards. The yam count in Germany is generally the same as the English system for cotton. To a small 1908^' ^' ^'^^^ Clark's article on German knit goods. Daily Consular and Trade Reports, July 22, * Ernest Tompkins: Science of Knitting, p. 187. PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. 187 extent, however, the metric system of a thousand meters contamed in 1,000 grains is used. The German worsted count is sometimes the same as the English count of 560 yards to the pound, and sometimes is the same as the English cotton count of 840 yards (768 meters) to the pound. YARNS COMMONLY USED. Cotton is used most extensively in the manufacture of hosiery. Wool, the outer covering of the sheep, Cashmere eoat, Angora goat, and Llama goat is used to a comparatively small extent and prm- cipally for lumbermen's and sportsmen's hosiery. Pure reeled silk is used to a very limited extent. Spirn silk^that is, spun from the waste of cocoons in reelmg, or from broken cocoons and tom up silk fabrics— is used very extensively. Japan-spun silk contams about 18 per cent gum. European and Chmese silk con- tains about 24 per cent gum. Spun silk also contains a good deal of tin and lead, which is put into the silk to make it heavier m weight. Artificial silk is generally made of wood pulp, and contains no sdk whatever. It is more lustrous than reeled silk, but is not as strong or elastic and is affected by water. It is used extensively m medium- nriced hosier v» Lisle is a two-fold cotton yam, mdividual threads being spun with a right-and-left hand twist respectively and afterwards doubled together, resulting in a firm, hard-wearing yam. It is used exten- sivelv. Mercerized yam is a cotton yam subjected to a mechanical and chemical treatment, which causes the cotton fiber to resume its original tubular form, resulting in a fiber of greater luster and greater affinity for dyestuffs. This treatment of cotton to smiilarize silk was, m 1844, successfully tried by John Mercer, of Manchester, England, and yam so treated has since been called mercerized yam, though it appears that the Germans knew of this treatment before Mercer did. When the yarn is mercerized it usually has a fuzzv appearance. In order to remove this fuzz the yam is often gassed, which results in a smooth, fine appearing yam. Mercerized yarns are used very extensively. Following are abbreviations of the names of the cotton yams reported to have been used by all the mills visited durmg this inves- tigation : j^ p Carded peeler. Q ■ p Combed peeler. g" j^ 'p' .........! Southern, carded peeler. £ j^' p ' " Eastern carded peeler. g ■ Q 'p Southern combed peeler. £ Q Eastern combed. g* rj' p " ' Eastern combed peeler. Q^ct .......!... Combed Egyptian. g* J Sea island. (i' g " J ...]........ Combed sea bland. Peeler is a term commonly used for describing cotton grown in the United States. Sou them carded peeler is yam spun m sou them mills, and eastem carded peeler is spun m New England. Combed cotton is that from which the short fibers have been removed after they have been carded. Egyptian cotton has a longer staple than southem cotton and is straw colored. Sea-island cotton is white and is grown on the South Atlantic coast. It has a longer staple than even Egyptian cotton and is used for spummg the finest yarns. 188 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. For seamless hosiery New England uses all numbers of cotton yams from 14/1 E K. P. to 30/1 E. K. P. Much merino and worsted and a httle woolen yarn is used. The merino numbers used vary from 34/2s to 100 grain merino. The worsted yarns used sliow a pre- dommance of 40/ls with various percentages of one half blood. In manufacturing seamless hosiery, the East (New York and Pennsylvania) uses all numbers of cotton yams from 10/1 S. K. P. to 50s, and some few numbers above 50s, as high as 80s. mostly E. C. Ps A great amount of all kinds of silk, (vspeci^y Japan, is used, as well as artificial silk (demer 130), mercerized yams, and a small amount of C. Eg. For seamless hosiery the West uses all numbers from 7/ Is E. K. P to 100s. There is a predommance of 30/ls of C. S. I. and Egyptian both plain and mercerized. All kinds of silk are used, especially Japan. This is the only section of the country that as a whole uses as high as 120 and 150 S. I. yam. A small amount of artificial silk of denier 150 is used and a very small amount of merino. The South uses all numbers from 7/ Is to 60s, generally S. K. P. In manufacturing full-fashioned hosiery the East generally uses the higher numbers of E. C. P. and mercerized yams from 44/ls to 80/2s Some Egyptian lisles, that of about 78/2s and C. S. Is. from 40 to 100/2S are used to some extent. Also a large amount, of silk is used usually Jap tram. ' New England uses for full-fashioned hosiery a Httle E. C. P., but fenerally Japan silk of different varit^ties sucli as best No. 1 extra, est No. 1, best doubled, best doubltMl extra, etc. A small amount of S. I. and merino and worsted is used. The nu^rinos used are usually from 35/ls to 50/ls, and the worsted from 40/ls to 45/ls. The West uses for full-fashioned hosiery a small amount of 20/ls E. C. Ps., most of this kind of yam running from 408 to 80s. Both plaux and mercerized C. Eg. and C. S. I. are used to some extent A little E. C. P. above 100 and up to 120 is used. No full-fashioning mills were reported from the South. Germany, which makes full-fashioned hosiery ahnost entirely, uses the followmg yam counts: All numbers from 10s to 32s, with a few above 32s as high as 100 and a very few at 200. Most of the yarns used are cotton and usually are single, though there is some small amount of double yarns used. Woo&ii yarns are also used to a very small extent.* MANUFACTUMNQ PROCESSES. Following is a description of the principal hosiery processes given in the order in which they are usually performed in the mill. Some mills manufacturing different classes of goods or usiug special ma- chines have a different sequence of operations. Some operations are combined in certain mills, but the following is the order in which the operations are generally performed. Turning has becm left out of the description, and examming is only noted once, though some mills have three or four inspections at various stages of the work. The production given at the end of each operation is to be tak(^n in its broadest term. The amount of production depends upon the number of working hours, the number of machines attended^by one a W. A. Graham Clark's article on German knit goods, DaUy Consular and Tra disposed of. This requires doubling up, putting two stitches of the ribbed leg on one stitch of the foot. ^ ^ ^ In full-fashioned half hose the transferrmg or running on is done bv means of a straight transfer bar, wliich contains the same number ot points as the needles contained in one section of the knitting ma- chine, but always less than the number of needles m the ribbing machine, so as to permit doubling up. The bar wDl hold eight or nine ribs, which the knitter takes off as he needs ^mmZ^ss.— One girl will transfer 8 to 12 dozen children's tops or about 20 to 25 dozen half hose per day. Fvll fashioned. —One girl will transfer an averages of about 22 to 40 dozen half hose per day. KNITTING. \.J^,t^^ ^^^a{ ^^^"^\^ss hosienr, the knittmg machine, which has had the ribbed top or leg transferred to it, automaticaUy knits the remainder of the stocking. The machine is ch-cular, and knits the leg below the rib top to the toe or the foot alone, depending upon wKothe? it IS a half hose or children's stocking. Ladies' seamless hosierv requires no transferrmg, the entire stocking being knit on the one machme In every case however, the machine leavers only the toe ^r* i"" knmpg the leg the machine goes aU the way round. When the heel is reached the machine has a reciprocating motion going half way round and then back again. In knitting the foot the machine goes aU the way round again \J^ fitting a high splice or a double or triple sole there remains mside the stockmg a floating thread. The machine, in knitting the high sphce and foot, goes all the way round, so as to i)revent a double thickness; for example, on the top of tlie foot the extra yarns are only carried halfway round at which point they are then thrown out. In the case of fuU-fashioned hose, the ribbed top having been transferred to a flat legging machine, the machme knits the re- mainder of the leg down to and nicluding the open heel. In ladies stockings the knitting machine knits from the very top to and including the open heel. Up to the point where the splic- ing IS inserted the fulf-fashioned legger has'^but one carrier At the pomt where the splicmg is inserted the yarn is slackened, so that the double thickness will not be too stifle. Two extra carriei^ are brought in, the main carrier going straight across, and the high sphcmg carriers, one on each side, tra^ cling just the proper distance for the sphcmg and then gom^ back, wien the he'el is reached a fourth carrier is brought m, which takes the place of the main car- rier, which IS now hel5 to knit the right-hand Lei. Both men^s and ladies hosiery must then be transferrin! by means of a transfer bai- onto a specially constructed footing machine which knits the foot. Unlike the seamless, the full-fashioned knitting machine leaves the heel open as well as the toe. In knitting the foot the splicing is con- tinued up to the beginning of the toe, one main and two sphcmg yam carriers being employed. At the beginning of the toe the narrowing commences, only one main and one splice carrier going all way across. Children's full-fashioned hosiery is made only to a limited extent in the United States, but where such a product is desired the ribbed leg is usually knit on a circular latch-needle machine. Seamless. — One girl attending 4 men's half-hose machines wiU knit about 20 dozen per day. One girl attending 10 ladies' stocking machines will knit about 30 dozen per day. Full fasTiioned. — One man and boy on a 20-section half -hose leg- ging machine will knit about 40 dozen per day, and on two 20-section ladies' legging machines will knit about 24 dozen per day. One man and boy on one 20-section footing machine will knit about 40 dozen per day. WELTING. Welting is done only on ladies' hosiery. In seamless hosiery the top of the hose is doubled back to the desired length by hand or by devices designed by the various manufacturers, and then put on a special sewing machine of high speed, known as a welter. This machine sews the welt with an overlock stitch, trimming as it sews. It makes a strong, fine-appearing finished seam that prevents the welt from raveling back. In full-fashioned hosiery a machine knits the leg of the stocking, and when the desired length is reached, about 8 or 10 inches, the machine is stopped, the knit fabric is doubled, and the machine then continues to knit the remainder of the leg. Some machines knit the welt as a part of the stocking, the welt made by such a machine being designated as an integral welt. Integral welts are usually found only in full-fashioned hosiery. Seamless. — One girl using one welting machme will welt about 50 dozen stockings per day. LOOPING OR JOINING. Looping seamless hosiery consists of closing the open edges of the toe, and in full-fashioned hosiery closing the open edges of both the heel and the toe. The looper is a circular machine, with points or needles projecting from a dial. The dial revolves continuously at a slow rate of speed. As it does so the top of the toe is run on first by hand, then the corresponding exactly opposite loops of the bottom of the toe are placed on the same points. The stocking passes a small blade attached to the machine which cuts away any unnecessary cloth and leaves the cut surface clean. As the stocking passes the back of the machine a needle passes through the proper double sets of loops, fastening the open edges together. A guide keeps the thread from breaking by holding it in the same place as the machine revolves. In full-fashioned hosiery, in addition to the toes, the heels must also be looped. The looping is done in the same way and on the same kind of machine as is used for seamless hosiery. A girl working on one looping machine will loop from 25 to 50 dozen toes or 18 to 30 dozen toes and heels per day. I 192 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. PRODUCTS, MACHINERY, AND PROCESSES. 193 SEAMING. After a full-fashioned stocking has been looped it is sent to the seamer. The stocking is seamed from the end of the toe down the sole of the foot and up the back of the leg to the top of the welt, leav- mg a small portion open at the begmning of the welt to make it more elastic. The stocking is seamed on the mside with a lock stitch and IS so seamed that a proper selvage is obtained. A girl on one seaming machine will seam from 15 to 28 dozen stockings per day. INSPECTING OR EXAMINING AND MENDING. Stockings are now sent to inspectors, who stretch them over a form and examine them for defects caused by bad needles, dropped stitches, etc., and who cut the floating threads. If the defect is shght, the stocking is sent to a mender. In this mending in the rough, as it is called, the hose is stretched over a board shaped like a leg and foot and the mender corrects by hand what defects she can usmg a needle and thread. If, however, the stockings after mending are not good enough for first quality goods, they are sold as seconds or are discarded. A girl by hand will cut 100 to 170 dozen and by machine 300 dozen floating threads per day. A girl who examines only can inspect from 75 to 150 dozen per day. A girl who mends only can correct about 15 to 30 dozen per day. DYEING. The stocking being completely finished as regards knitting and sewmg is then bleached or dved. Usually this work is done bv outside houses, though some few large manufacturers maintain their own dyemg plants. Where ingrain yarns have been used, the yarn being dyed the desired color before the stocking was knit, no dyeing is required. Ingrain yams are seldom used except in very good silk, because of the difficulty in handhng colored yams, especi Jly black! When such yams are used, the work is slow; it is a strain on the eyes of the operators, and costs more, so that most manufacturers knit in the white and dye the desired color after the stocking has been knit. BOARDING. From the dyer the hosiery comes to the boarder in a damp condi- tion. If the stocking has been knit from an ingrain yarn, it is put in a wet linen cloth to dampen it before it is boarded. Though not entirely essential, damp hosiery is always desired, as in that state it makes shaping and stretching easier. The boarder draws, by hand, the damp hose smooth over boards shaped to the outline of the foot and leg. Boarding is very important in seamless hosiery, for, the hose not being knit to shape or actual size, the boarding reaUy determines the shape and size. In full-fashioned hosiery boarding is used to bring out the shape better. Full-fashion(»,d hosiery, unlike seamless, is always boarded in pairs, and the stocking is put on the board so that the seams are a Httle inside, in order not to be 8li«>ments from which to secure (fata the Bureau of Labor Statistics undertook to represent all States in wh ch hosfer and underwear manufacturing is of material importaciceTtl e nfe^'l^^^ of importance being the number of employees us n^ported bv Jh Unitea States Census of Manufacturers. The number Ksierv and BureirS Ltbort'ff^^ '" ''''' .^'f' ^^^^ which age ntT7f S isureau ot I^abor Statistics secured data regarding wa^es in IQU tZ .*^'. ^r;.^"' i employees in specified occupatic^ wW in these estabhshments are shown in Table 71. ^ ^'^ ^^ worKing m Table 71.-Hosiery and Knit Underwkar Establishments Reported. States. Peimsylvania New York Massachusetts... North Carolina.. Wisconsin Connecticut Ohio New Hampshire. Tennessee Illinois Georgia Michigan Indiana Virginia other States Em- ployees rei)orted bv United States census, 1910. Establishmeni s and employees for which data are shown by the Hureau of Labor Statistics for 1914. " "^ Hosierj' 38,206 35,950 9,941 5,151 4,282 3,340 3,149 3,129 3,117 2,913 2,743 2,545 1,933 1,715 11,161 Estab- lish- ments. 11 Total 129,275 a3 3 2 d3 3 aZ 2 3 3 a2 2 2 Knit underwear, Em- plojees. 5,837 J 42 b 2 H52 015 981 " r.43 217 1,032 1,018 599 759 ^715 1,699 494 Estab- lish- ments. * 17, 361 (/) 4 18 1 1 2 2 2 2 Em- ployees. Total. 1,554 7,054 c2,446 120 411 9 379 507 673 Estab- lish- ments. MO 203 <366 215 645 "» 15,008 15 18 4 4 4 3 5 5 4 3 6 4 3 4 82 7,391 7,054 5,298 735 1,392 922 724 1,705 1,453 599 962 1,081 1,914 1,139 32,369 a Including 1 establishment which makes both hosiery and underwear b ^eluding 789 persons part of whom work on underwe^ underwear. d S''1"'k ^"^^^^ ^^^ ^'^^''^ P^^t o^ wliom work on uTde^wear d Make both hosiery- and underwear. uuuerwear. / SfJof "f ^ persons part of whom work on underwear / Three establishments, incuded under hnsiprv rn^ta wi, i, • J Not including 226 persons part o^whSm SV ?^Bd^^^^^^ ^°^ underwear. The report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics includes e^tabli^li ments engaged primarily in the mam.facture of Tos S of u^^^^^^^^ m"n nrotctrare' mUt '' ^" ^"^-^^^^^^ establishS;.arht sTawk!^'^;^^^^^^^^ e^'''"'' ^^^""' "^P^^ ^^^"' -^^^^- g-^^' AU information in the report was secured from pay roEs of the various estabhshments by agents of the bureau. ^ WORKING CONDITIONS. 201 A l)rinc summary oi the rates of wages and liours of labor in 1914 in the :jipal occupations of the hosiery industry is presented in Table 72. Table 72.— Average Full-Time Hours per Week, Rates of Wages per Hour AND Full-Time \\eekly Earnings; and Per Cent of Employees H\ving EACH Classified Full-Time Hours and Earning each Classified Rate of Wages per Hour in the Principal Occupations in 1914. Estab- lish- ments. Em- ploy- VrSOm Aver- age full- time hours per week. Per cent of employees whose full-time hours per week were— Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Per cent of employees earning each classi- fied rate of wages per hour. Aver- age full- Occupation and sex. Un- der 54 54 Over 54 and un- der 57 57 and un- der 60 60 and over. Un- der 9 cts. 9 and un- der 12 cts. 16 18 17 14 19 15 22 51 11 15 19 17 12 and un- der 16 cts. 38 29 32 41 27 41 32 24 40 52 25 39 16 and un- der 20 cts. 20 cts. and over. time week- earn- ings. Inspectors and fold- ers, hosiery, fe- male 34 16 37 13 42 29 39 3 9 27 38 5 17 12 25 9 25 3S 5 40 9 26 473 305 2,800 56 2,318 309 867 41 528 464 2,873 527 313 125 126 306 285 2,390 616 1,007 507 136 55.6 56.3 54.9 54.9 54.8 54.8 55.1 54.0 54.4 54.3 54.8 54.2 55.4 54.2 55.7 51.4 55.3 55.5 51.7 55.3 54.8 55.9 5 4 23 9 13 6 7 24 16 15 20 12 17 3 11 7 12 7 41 3 37 63 49 67 38 98 25 50 41 78 63 47 27 34 61 30 74 40 2 21 25 22 20 9 19 12 37 2 51 28 23 22 10 23 22 49 9 37 15 29 85 33 16 44 16 13 14 9 13 13 8 4 7 5 7 5 to. 156 .157 .150 .167 .154 .153 .148 .126 .152 .145 .123 .148 .198 .179 .105 .173 .160 .181 .192 .228 .407 .217 4 13 9 2 11 4 7 7 5 3 32 9 25 20 27 29 24 27 28 15 38 25 15 23 17 21 14 14 19 13 12 2 6 4 10 12 Knitters, footers, or toppers, male Knitters, footers, or toppers, female... Knitters, rib, female Loopers, female Menders, fine, ho- siery, female Menders, rough, ho- siery , female Press hands, female . S8.64 8.45 8.24 9.12 8.42 8.35 8.11 6.80 Toppers, full-fash- ioned hosiery, fe- male Winders, female other employees, hosiery, fema"leo... other employees, hosiery and un- derwear, female o . 5 16 5 8.29 7.89 6.74 8.02 15 1 34 12 5 Knitters, "lady Un- der 12 cts. 3 10 18 19 25 26 8 12 and un- der 16 cts. 11 26 28 26 28 22 39 16 and un- der 20 cts. 39 27 20 24 26 17 IS 20 and un- der 25 cts. 36 33 10 21 15 15 13 25 cts. and over. hose," male Knitters, "lady hose," female Knitters, rib, male.. Seamers, full-fash- ioned hosiery, fe- male 10 4 2.5 10 5 20 22 10.98 9.67 10. 79 Welters, female other employees, maleo 15 14 S 17 ...... 8 3 7 9.41 S.78 Other employees, hosiery and' un- derwear, male a... 10.04 10.53 Un- der 16 cts. 18 1 25 16 and un- der 20 cts. 20 and un- der 25 cts. 25 and un- der 30 cts. 30 Cts. and over. Boarders, male Knitters, full-fash- ioned hosiery, male 21 3 21 25 5 21 17 11 19 19 SO 14 12.53 22.31 12.07 Pressers, male 26 10 a" Other employees •' include all occupations in the mills not specified separately in the tal)le Certain S the°tabfe ^^'^'"^' underwear, and a few hosiery and underwear, which distinctions are preserved r it * x> 202 THE HOSIEBY INDUSTRY. The rates of wages per hour appear! iig in the tables include the wages ot time workers and the earnings of pieceworkers. All time rates by the day or week have been reduced to rates per hour, and the earnings of pieceworkers or of persons working at both time and piece rates have been reduced to rates per hour by dividing the eam- mgs by the hours worked. Separation of time and piece workers was made to show what difference there might be in the wagers of these two classes of workers m the several occu])ations. Where there was no record regularly kept m the factory of th(i actual time worked by pic^ce- workers the firms, at the request of the bureau, kept a special record for the pay period taken, making it possible to present classified rates. 1 he averages of full-time hours per week, rates of wagps per hour, and fuU-time weekly earmngs are computed by adding the data for each mdiyidual employee and dividing the total by the number of eniployees. The full-time hours of labor per week shown in the tables are the reguhxr hours of work of the occupations under normal conditions in the estabhshments. The figures given show the avc^rage full-time hours per week of the employees in each occupation and the number ot employees whose full-time came withhi specific.! classification limits. Ihe working time is the hours on duty, inclu.ling inter\^als of waiting for work. The fuU-time hours per week do not in any way indicate the extent of unemployment. Employees may work overtime, broken time, or be laid off, or a temporary reduction may be made m working hours without such (change affecting the full-time hours per week as here presented. The full-time weekly earnings tabulated are the earnings per week of employees workmg full time, or the earning on broken time re- duced to equivalent earnings for a fuU week. In this table it is seen that in 1914 the average full-time weekly earmngs of males engaged in the hosiery industry, represented bv 8 occupations, varied from $22.31 for knitters, full-fashioned hosiery, to $8.45 for knitters, footei-s, or toppers. The average full-time weekly earnings of females in 1914, repre- sented by 14 occupations, varied from $9.67 for knitters, '4adv hose " to $6.74 for ''other employees." ' Table 73 shows the average full-time iiours per week, and average and classified rates of wages per hour, for pieceworkers and time workers in the establishments in each State from which data wore secured, in 1914. WORKING CONDITIONS. 203 Table 73.— Average Full-Time Hours per Week, am> Vverage and Classified Rates of Wages ver Hour, for Pieceworkers and Time Workers, by States, 1914. boarders, HOSIERY: MALE. Piece- workers or time work- ers. Es- tab- lish- m'ts. Em- ploy- ees. Av. fuU- time hrs. per w'k. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees earning each classified rate of wages per hour. States. Un- der 5 cts. 5 and un- der 7 cts. ancf un- der 8 cts. 8 and un- der 9 cts. 3 1 3 9 and un- der 10 cts. .... 1 10 and un- der 12 cts. 4 2 2 1 1 2 1 and un- der 14 cts. 10 4 6 3 3 4 14 16 and and un- un- der ! der 16 18 cts. cts. 18 and un- der 20 cts. 13 10 8 37 10 6 15 20 and un- der 25 cts. 10 10 24 86 18 14 59 3 and un- der 30 cts. 2 2 29 32 7 30 cts. and over. Georgia Illinois Indiana Massachusetts. New Hamp- shire. North Carolina Piece.. ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. do 3 2 2 3 3 3 69 $0,165 18' 9 3i 9 1 3 21 27 6 3 41 56.1 106 55.0 2231 54.0 45 f^ c\ .181 .246 .214 .208 28 15 . . .. 53 59.4 .177 3 2 8 2 2 11 7 4 86 5 — ' — Pennsylvania. 9 3 315 10 64.2 54.7 .285 .229 1 141 i i 10 325 54.2 .283 i 1 4 4 7 15 62; 91 141 4 Tennessee O' TC 57.9 57.9 .153 .126 ....i 1 1 1 A 3 15 14 2 14 10 10 1 4\} 3 i 1 9 TO 57.9 .152 1 2 4 4 3 15 16 14 10 10 Z f i7 Virginia 2! 42 .W fi 170 1.-.. 1 5 9 12 5 9 .... . . . . Wisconsin _= 1 2i 47 55.0 55 .278 Sf>9 • * « • 2 12 15 18 Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. 1 1 1 2 2 48 55.0 .279 12 1 15 19 1 r-^ ^— — Other States . . 7 2 55 11 54.8 54.5 .217 .173 1 2 2 2 1 4 6 1 10 20 4 9 4 « t (\fi 54.8 .209 1 2 4 5 7 10 24 9 4 1 1 Grand total. 381,072 7 9fi 55.3 55. C .228 .195 1 2 1 15 9 19 52 2 83 8 101 1 102 126 126 272 7 186 5 206 1 "" 401,097 55.3 .228 1 3 15 9 19 54 91 279 191 207 INSPECTORS AND FOLDERS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Connecticut... Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. ...do... ...do... ...do.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. 1 1 30 1 55 10 142 5 ll 10 7 6 1 1 55.0 .100 2 31 55.0 .141 6 10 7 6 1 1 Georgia 2 2 44 8 59.4 56.3 .120 .109 3 2 20 8 6 2 8 3 3 52 58.9 .118 3 2 26 10 8 3 Indiana Massachusetts. North Carolina 2 3 3 45 101 29 55.0 54.0 59.9 .141 .181 .146 3 1 13 8 3 8 3 7 9 17 10 5 14 4 5 23 3 2 35 1 1 Pennsylvania. 6 3 69 30 54.0 53.9 .190 .117 1 7 1 1 2 16 13 2 13 20 1 13 2 4 2 1 7 99 54.0 57.9 57.9 .168 .133 .119 8 1 1 1 2 18 15 8 1 13 5 21 15 4 2 Tennessee 2 2 38 5 8 1 16 2 2 43 57.9 .132 2 9 18 9 5 Other States . . 11 3 62 11 55.5 54.5 .171 .134 1 1 9 2 9 4 8 3 5 1 8 1 17 4 12 73 55.3 .166 1 1 11 13 11 6 9 17 4 Grand total. .30 11 34 418 55 473 55.7 54.7 .161 .119 1 7 5 2 7 4 4 62 11 68! 80 24! 6 55 1 60 2 62 69 2 71 8 2 55.6 .156 8 4 4 73 92 86 56 8 2 1 1 204 THE HOSIERY INDTSTRY. Table 73.— Average Full-Time Hour.s peei Week, and Average and Classified Rates of Wages per Hour, for Pieceworkers and Time Workers, bv States, 1914— Continued. ' KNITTERS, 1 POOTKRS, OR TOPPERS, HOSIERY: malk. Piece- workers or time work- ers. Es- tab- lish- m'ts. Em- ploy- ees. Av. full- time hrs. per w'k. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees earning each classified rate of wage« per hour. States. Un- der 5 cts. 5 and un- der 7 cts. 7 and un- der 8 cts. 8 and un- d.T 9 cts. 2 9 and un- der 10 cts. 10 and un- der 12 cts. 12 and un- der 14 cts. 14 and un- der 16 cts. 6 8 16 and un- der 18 cts. 18 and un- der 20 cts. 20 25 and and un-| un- der der 25 30 cts. cts. :k) cts. and over. Georgia Piece.. ...do.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total 3 3 42 66 58.9 55.0 $0,121 .186 5 3 4 1 6 1 9 6 4 lA 6 3 11 New Hamp- 18 4 1 shire. Tennessee 2 1 77 2 58.0 58.0 .119 .116 — 10 4 13 15 1 12 1 10 3 3 2 79 58.0 .119 — 10 4 -~= 13 16 13 10 7 3 2 3 .... Virginia 2 33 57.8 .143 — 3 3 3 2 6 5 6 2 Other States . . 6 1 SL' 3 86 53.9 54.0 .172 .142 :::: 3 3 1 1 8 7 1 16 9 20 1 8 6 53.9 .171 3 3 . . . . 2 8 8 16 7 32 i'l 9 21 8 Grand total . 16 2 300 5 56.3 55.6 .151 .132 21 13 5 22 1 32 1 40 2 45 28 47 1 14 14 1 .... 16 305 56.3 .151 21 13 5 23 33 42 45 28 48 1 KNITTERS, FOOTERS, OR TOPPERS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Connecticut... Piece.. ...do.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. ...do.. 2 3 134 120 55.0 57.4 $0,157 .114 2 12 3 5 is 4 12 5 33 19 21 36 10 31 7 19 5 15 2 Georgia Illinois 3 1 173 1 53.8 48.0 .112 .100 18 10 12 23 39 1 39 22 6 4 - . . - . . . - 3 174 53.8 .112 18 10 12 2 23 40 39 22 M 4 . - - . .... Massachusects. 3 1 17^ 9 54.0 54.0 .156 .104 1 1 4 7 16 23 1 45 1 45 4 1 3 187 54.0 .153 1 1 2 11 16 24 46 36 11 2 13 45 6 4 1 ■■ -II Michigan 2 1 60 2 53.5 52.5 .182 .171 5 10 6 19 3 6 14 * ' ' " - - - - 2 62 53.5 .182 5 10 ft 19 3 ■ xu, ..... New Hamp- shire. 3 1 145 6 55.0 55.0 .140 .154 6 2 8 24 38 2 26 20 4 24 6 1 3 151 55.0 .141 6 2 8 24 40 26 14 6 1 - » • - • North Carolina 3 3 129 65 59.1 52.2 .099 .138 23 15 19 1 9 2 30 10 22 19 8 21 3 9 2(W ' Ohio 3 209 .... .... Pennsylvania . Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. ...do.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Piece. . Time.. Total 8 2 1,235 9 53.9 54.0 .167 .166 11 5 18 18 9 3 36 108 156 2 202 5 2«i0 2 21 1 8 1,244 53.9 .167 11 5 36 108 158 207 209 262 21 1 Tennessee Virginia 2 2 234 68 57.9 57.6 .147 .112 11 12 8 4 12 5 28 17 35 13 36 5 41 5 25 4 23 6 Wisconsin 2 1 115 2 55.0 55.0 164 .109 4 3 1 14 27 1 11 11 14 28 3 2 117 55. .163 4 li 97 4 14 28 11 11 14 28 3 1 52 Other States . . 1 115| 55.0 .136 5 22 25 19 12 11 359 359 ~5 1 — — Grand total . 37 7 2,771 54.9 29 54.0 .151 .138 96 123 8 351 1 447 6 447 6 400 6 4()() 362 2 36 1 37 2,800 54.9 .150 96 52 97 131 352 453 453 ■Mi 36 1 WORKING CONDITIONS. 205 Table 73. — Average Full-Time Hours per Week, and Average and Classified Rates of Wages per Hour, for Pieceworkers and Time Workers, by States, 1914 — Continued. KNITTERS, FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY: MALE. Employees earning each classified rate of wages per hoiu". Piece- workers Es- tab- lish- m'ts. Em- Av. full- Aver- age rate 5 7 8 9 10 1 12 14 16 ! IS ! 20 25 States. or time work- ploy- ees. time hrs. of wages Un- der and un- and un- and I and and un-[ un-i un- and and un- un- and un- and un- and un- and 30 un- cts. ers. per w'k. per 5 der der der der der der der der der der der and hour. cts. 7 8 9 10 j 12 14 16 IS 20 25 30 over 2 4 .55.0 54.6 cts. cts. cts. cts. cts. cts. cts. cts. cts. 3 6 cts. cts. Indiana Piece., do 234 229 $0,394 12 15 27 19 192 Pennsvlvania .424 .... 1 2 6 180 Other States ...do... Piece.. 3 44 55.0 ..384 1 10 33 Total . 9 507 54.8 .407 1 2 i 9 27 56 405 ' KNITTERS, "LADY HOSE": MALE. Massachusetts . l*iece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. 2 1 146 1 54.0 54.0 $0,192 .196 3 1 5 7 27 52 1 ■ 42 9 2 147 54.0 .192 3 1 5 7 27 53 42 9 New Hamp- shire. 2 20 55.0 .208 2 3 14 1 Pennsylvania. 2 1 50 1 54.0 54.0 .214 .255 1 3 4 5 32 5 1 2 51 54.0 .214 1 3 4 5 32 6 Other States 11 2 11 82 13 58.3 59.3 .192 .219 4 1 8 1 10 16 1 11 1 22 4 9 3 2 2 - - • - 95 58.4 .196 5 9 10 17 12 26 12 4 Grand total. 17 4 298 15 55.3 58.6 .197 .220 3 6 1 13 1 20 49 1 71 2 110 4 24 4 2 2 17 313 55.4 .198 3 7 14 20 50 ' 73 114 1 28 4 ■•"T" KNITTERS, "LADY HOSE": FEMALE. Pennsvlvania . Piece.. ...do... Piece.. Time. . TotaJ. Piece.. Time. . Total. 6 2 63 19 53.9 5.5.0 $0,201 .164 2 4 "3 6 2 10 4 7 2 33 5 Wi'V»nTi«sin Other States 4 1 40 3 54.2 54.0 .154 .135 1 2 4 9 12 5 6 4 43 54.2 .153 3 4 9 12 5 6 ^ Grand total 12 1 122 3 54.2 54.0 .180 .135 1 2 10 12 20 19 15 40 1 5 12 125 54.2 ,179 3 10 12 20 19 15 " 5 KNITTERS, RIB, HOSIERY: MALE. rirraTiH tritnl Piece.. Time.. Total. 11 18 59 67 55.9 55.5 $0,241 .155 1 1 2 18 2 14 11 8 3 12 5 5 8 4 9 3 17 1 25 126 55.7 .195 1 1 1 20 16 19 15 10 12 12 19 KNITTERS, RIB, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Grand total... Piece.. Time.. Total. 8 7 37 19 .55.0 54.6 $0,188 .126 ,' 1 1 6 1 9 9 4 ^ 5 12 i i 13 56 54.9 .167 1 .... 1 7 10 13 3 5 12 4 3 •i i 206 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 73.— Average Full-Time Hours per Week, and Average and Classified Kates of Wages per Hour, for Pieceworkers and Time Workers, by States 1914— Continued. ' LOOPERS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Piece- workers or time work- ers. Es- tab- lish- m'ts. 2 3 3 2 3 Em- ploy- AAO Av. full- time hrs. per w'k. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees earning each classified rate of wages per hour. States. Un- der 5 cts. 5 and un- der 7 cts. 7 and un- der 8 cts. s and un- der 9 cts. 9 and un- der 10 cts. 10 and un- der 12 cts. 12 and un- der 14 cts. 14 and un- der 16 cts. 6 11 17 18 66 16 and un- der IS cts. 18 20 and and «n- un- der der 20 25 cts. cts. 25 and un- der 30 cts. 30 cts. and over. Connecticut... Piece. . ...do... ...do... ...do... ...do... . . .do . . 5s 111 110 119 431 55. $0. 182 4 16 17 23 52 7 12 12 18 73 8 12 11 17 59 4 4 14 9 3 10 51 17 10 2 13 57 2 2 Georgia Illinois 58.9 54.9 55.0 54.0 .133 .114 .141 .150 — 12 11 8 11 8 13 7 9 3 18 11 17 8 23 1 Indiana Massachusetts 1 7 :::: Michigan 3 1 82 1 53.9 52.5 .169 .152 — 1 2 4 4 • > > « 8 21 10 1 4 17 6 Time. . Total. Piece.. ...do... -..do... ...do.. Time. . Total. Piece. . ...do... ...do... ...do.. Time. . Total. 1 3 3 3 3 8;i 147 84 27 53.9 55.0 58.8 52.6 63,9 54.0 .169 — 1 2 4 4 8 21 11 16 7 5 4 17 6 1 New Hamp- shire. North Carolina Ohio .171 .113 .150 .170 .155 — 2 6 3 4 8 18 3 5 4 14 1 14 24 8 14 9 1 15 7 7 111 1 26 4 2 113 1 44 '3 5 Pennsylvania. 11 2 81H 4 22 26 79 99 2 126 159 43 19 11 822 53.9 .170 — 3 18 22 26 79 101 126 112 :\ H 22 2H4 1 114 159 43 19 Tennessee Virginia 2 2 2 124 61 141 57.9 57.7 53.6 .125 .123 .158 — 15 3 3 8 4 3 7 4 7 9 4 10 28 18 20 16 10 15 17 6 14 12 3 14 8 1 29 1 Wisconsin 1 3 Grand total. 42 3 2,313 5 54.8 53.7 .154 .155 — 68 87 89 131 311 307 2 319 1 320 265 1 360 67 > > • ■ 25 42 2,318 54.8 .154 — 68 87 89 131 311 309 2^ 266 360 67 25 MENDERS, FINE, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Massachusetts Piece. . Time. . Total. Piece. . Time. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. 3 2 103 2 54.0 54.0 $0,149 .095 1 1 2 10 1 23 24 29 11 2 1 . . . . .... 3 105 54.0 .148 1 2 . . . 2 11 23 24 29 11 15 2 .... ' Pennsylvania . 8 3 87 5 54.0 53.9 .179 .200 3 7 1 7 14 ~i;4 24 4 2 2 i;i .... 8 14 5 92 84 28 54.0 57.1 54.2 .180 .137 .126 — 1 ■ ■ - 3 3 3 8 16 1 7 19 19 14 17 3 15 28 2 2 Other States.. 4 4 7 2 7 5 1 18 112 56.4 .135 1 4 4 6 17 38 20 55 3 {* 7 5 1 Grand total . 25 10 274 35 54.9 54.1 .155 .135 2 5 1 4 4 8 3 33 3 49 19 49 2 51 33 31 4 3 2 ■ • • " 29 309 54.8 .153 ....i 2 1 6 11 36 68 58 33 35 3 2 WORKING CONDITIONS. 207 Table 73.— Average Full-Time Hours per Week, and Average and (Yassified m4-c''onS^^^^^^^^ ^^"^ ^''''''' ^^"^ Pieceworkers Ind Time Workers, by StI™ MENDERS, ROUGH, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Piece- p, workers ^^? or time JgJ" Em ploy ees. Av. Aver full- age - time rate - hrs. of per wag« w'k. per hour Employees earning each classified rate of wages per hour. States. Un 5 der 5 . cts 5 - anc un der . 7 cts 7 1 and - un- der 8 . cts 8 9 I and, and ■ un-i un der der 9 1 10 cts. cts 10 1 and - un der 12 cts 1 8 11 12 14 I and anc - un- un der der i 14 16 cts. cts 16 18 20 25 i and and and anc -i un-| un-i un- un der der der der 18 20 25 30 . cts. cts. cts. cts, 23 4 2.... 2 1 30 - cts. and ovet • Connecticut... Piece.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece. . Time-. Total Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total Piece.. Piece.. Time.. Total Piece. . Piece. . Time.. Total Piece. . Time.. 3 4S i 55.0 $0. 161 I IC ' 17 Georgia 2 1 71 11 59.0 55.0 .lie .IOC e > 1 IC 1 10 • • « . 3 82 58.5 .114 t > 1 IC 10 19 17 17 2 21 5 10 6 10 1 Indiana 2 1 112 13 55.0 55.0 .145 .172 ...» 2 € 8 15 22 1 18 2 125 55.0 .147 — . . . . 2 6 8 15 18 1 23 18 26 16 11 1 Massachusetts. 3 2 115 2 54.0 54.0 .140 .126 — 4 1 2 4 26 27 1 17 15 3 117 54.0 ,140 —r— 4 1 2 4 19 26 28 17 15 1 7 ... - Michigan 2 1 37 3 53.9 52.5 .187 .158 3 1 1 4 1 10 9 1 2 — 1 2 40 53.8 .184 — . . . . .... 3 2 5 10 10 7 2 1 New Hamp- shire. 3 60 55.0 .159 1 1 1 5 5 8 27 17 5 10 24 3 2 67 . Pennsylvania. 8 3 183 23 54.0 53.6 .171 .151 1 :::; 3 6 37 1 11 14 7 1 2 9 206 53.9 58.0 .169 1 3 6 38 18 21 22 27 67 1 2 Tennessee 2 41 .109 4 4 3 9 4 7 8 3 1 20 2 Wisconsin 2 1 75 2 55.0 55.0 .149 .123 7 1 13 1 24 4 3 — 2 77 55.0 .148 — . . . . 4 8 14 24 20 4 3 4 Other States.. 9 1 64 7 56.4 53.5 .123 .113 1 5 6 6 19 6 12 7 1 1 2 1 Total Piece.. Time.. Total 10 71 56.1 .122 1 16 5 6 6 25 12 123 10 133 8 132 10 1 2 4 1 Grand total . 36 10 806 61 55.2 54.1 .148 .141 . 14 31 48 120 20 140 139 10 80 96 10 1 4 4 3 ... 16 14 31 48 39 867 55.1 .148. 142 149 90 97 3 PRESSERS. HOSIERY: MALE. Grand total. .. Piece. . Time.. Total 21 6 26 110 26 56.2 54.8 $0,232 .153 2 5 2 5 9 6 5 13 5 9 1 25 4 26 .... . > • • 19 136 55.9 .217 2 7 14 11 18 10 29 26 19 PRESS HANDS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Total. Piece. . 41 54.0 $0,126 19 SEAMERS, FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY: FEMALE. Indiana Piece.. ..do — ..do.... Piece.. 2 4 3 128 156 22 55.0 53.9 55.0 $0,152 .193 .155 6 4 2 1 5 7 1 17 10 3 15 16 2 21 24 3 22 17 3 20 9 3 18 40 5 Pennsylvania. 23 23 . • - . Other States.. 1 8 Total... 9 306 54.4 .173 7 7 13 30 33 48 42 32 63 8 t i :\ ill 208 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 73.— Average Full-Time Hours per Week, and Average and Classified Rates of Wages per Hour, for Pieceworkers and Time Workers, by States 1914 — Continued. ' TOPPERS. FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY: FEMALE. Piece- workers or time work- ers. Es- tab- lish- m'ts. Em- ploy- ees. Av. full- time hrs. per w'k. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees eiirning each classified rate of wages per liour. States. Un- der 5 cts. 5 and un- der 7 cts. 2 7 8 and and un- un- der (ier 8 9 cts. cts. 1 9 and un- der 10 cts. 10 and un- der 12 cts. 12 and un- der 14 cts. 42 14 and un- der 16 cts. 52 82 16 and un- der 18 cts. 18 and un- der 20 cts. 20 25 and and un- un- der der 25 30 cts. cts. 18 3 30 cts. and over. Pennsylvania. Piece. . Piece. . Time.. Total Piece.. Time.. Total 4 259 53.9 $0,157 1 4 8 24 61 60 44 34 Other States. . 5 1 268 1 54.9 55.0 .148 .135 — 3 14 4 4 22 35 1 9 1 .... Grand total 5 269 54.9 .148 — 3 14 4 4 22 36 82 60 121 34 78 9 27 1 4 9 1 527 1 54.4 55.0 .152 .135 — 5 15 8 12 46 1 134 ' • 27 4 9 528 54.4 .152 5 15 8 12 46 78 121 78 I WELTERS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. WINDERS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Georgia Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Piece.. Time.- Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. 3 1 28 1 58.7 55.0 $0. 134 .100 2 6 9 7 2 1 1 • .... .... " ' * • " 3 29 58.6 .133 . . . . 2 9 7 2 1 1 Massachusetts. 3 109 54.0 .144 2 5 6 21 22 13 ~ii 21 8 .... 1 .... Pennsylvania. 6 1 69 1 54.0 54.0 54.0 .203 .200 1 6 1 10 1 7 9Q 6 4 1 .... 6 70 .203 1 6 1 10 17 24 6 4 Other States. . 13 1 76 1 57.2 55.0 .152 .091 3 1 . . . . 2 8 1 12 11 ■ • • • 12 8 5 10 1 3 13 77 57.2 .151 3 1 2 9 12 11 12 8 5 10 1 3 Grand total. 25 3 282 3 55.3 54.7 .160 .130 3 3 7 17 1 40 1 48 33 " 1 " * " ' ~31 44 42 1 7 7 25 285 55.3 .160 3 3 7 18 41 48 33 31 44 43 7 7 Indiana Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece., Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. 2 1 59 12 5.5,0 $0,156 ... i 3 12 1 20 6 16 5 5 3 55.0 .152 ....!.... - . - - 2 71 55.0 .155 ....!.... — 13 26 21 5 3 Massai'husetts. 2 1 62 7 54.0 54.0 .150 .101 10 3 ~10 19 15 7 1 4 " ■ .... 2 69 54.0 .145 ....!.... 4 13 10 19 15 7 1 New Hamp- 3 1 38 7 55.0 55.0 .160 .121 1 4 5 7 12! 5 1 1 6 5 shire. ■ . - . . 3 45 55.0 .154 1 4 12 12 5 17 6 5 .... Pennsylvania. 5 7 75 149 54.0 53.9 .157!.... .146.... 2 3 . .. 4 1 4 5 9 38 20 74 14 9 6 2 1 10 224 53.9 .150.... 5 5 9 47 94 32 23 8 1 Other States.. 6 6 21 34 55.4 53.9 .126 .099 2 2 2 '5 1 16 6 8 2 2 4 1 2 . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . 10 55 64.5 .109 2 4 5 17 14 4 5 2 . . . . 2 . - - - Grand total . 18 16 255 209 464 54.5 54.0 .1.53 .136 4 3 7 2 2 4 "5 5 6 21 27 16 38 48 86 75 ."B 81 22 32 17 9 2 1 27 54.3 .145 27 43 156 75 41 19 1 . ■ • • • WORKING CONDITIONS. 209 lED ^^^':V^~i7^''''''^ Full-time Hours per Week, and Average and Cia^.uie WU-cJnnrtuel "^ ^^'^^' '^^ ^'^'^^^^^^^^ ^nb Time Workehs! b^^^Ites; OTHER EMPLOYEES, HOSIERY: MALE. Es- tab- I 1 lish- ploy- Em- m'ts, ees. Av. full time hrs. per w'k Georgia Illinois. Indiana Massachusetts. Michigan New Hamp- shire. North Carolina Ohio. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece. . Time. . Total. 62 ION 170 3 3 29 50 58.0 58. 9 Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees earning each classified rate of v aires per hour. Un- der 5 cts. 58.6 79 2 1 164 90 2 254 87 184 271 5L8 57.3 55.3 55.0 56.4 55.5 SO. 098 .171 and un- der 7 cts. 16 4 .144 .116 .196 .167 .14 .260 20 11 4 15 7 and un- der 8 cts. 54.0 54.0 65 60 54.0 125 114 113 227 14 87 54.0 53.9 54.0 .187 .167 . 226 .207 ,165 ,198 32 32 8 and un- der 9 cts. 9 and un- der 10 cts. 55.0 56.2 55.6 Pennsylvania. Tennessee. Virginia. Wisconsin... Grand total. Piece. . Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. Piece.. Time.. 101 58.3 59.2 59.1 1 3l 8 11 11 2 16 l.S 163 590 753 ,181 ,177 ,197 ,187 ,127 ,143 10 10 13 1 14 10 10 and un- der 12 ots. 13 20 12 and un- der 14 cts. 10 28 14 and un- der 16 cts. 10 .141 54. . 150 5.5.0 .248 54.9 .54.3 54. 5 44 91 188 28 58 Total. Piece.. Time.. Total. 32 37 38 86 54. 5 57.9 59.0 58. .237 .166 .1,S9 10 8 11 4 15 38 4 17 1 12 13 16 and un- der 18 cts. 18 and un- der 20 Cl.S. 20 and un- der 25 cts. 4 12 _1^ 2 10 12 ,184 57.7 58.3 120 48 168 892 1,498 .■1.8.1 54.5 54.7 ,118 ,188 .16,5 2 13 16 16 .091 .177 16 6 34 18 13 11 24 10 10 33 9 20 149 54.6 55.0 55.8 2,390 .55.5 .206 .188 .201 .1.58 .195 40 43 3 1 29 8 11 19 11 21 32 15 1 lOJ 11 14 5 20 33 53 10 10 19 2.=i and un- der 30 cts. 2 10 12 6 27 2 5 4 2 I.... ( 1 2 1 3 IOC 58.6 .083 2C 1 27 IC 1 18 '1 ' 1 a 2 7 2 9 10 Illinois 3 3 76 IS 56.5 54.5 .128 .134 6 • ■ • • 11 .... 1 4 5 5 4 6 2 13 4 If ( 13 1 5 — 3 2 2 2 2 2 94 56.1 .129 6 11 36 32 4 S 17 20 l.i ^22 3 14 ~I9 2 21 5 7 1 8 — Indiana 190 7 65.0 55.0 $0,110 .149 9 7 23 1 — — , — 197 121 61 55.0 .112 9 36 32 5 7 24 16 20 20 16 4 25 ~2n 15 35 10 i Massachusetts. 54.0 54.0 .151 .150 4 3 11 1 13 7 21 10 17 3 2 2 2 182 153 16 54.0 54.0 53.0 . 150 ... . 4 3 12 36 20 20 21 4 31 17 20 15 1 5 Michigan .146 .133 4 2 14 5 5 3 23 1 17 6 23 2 25 2 2 169 53.9 .145 4 2 14 5 8 24 23 25 17 15 5 2 New Hamp- shire. 3 3 112 60 55.0 55.0 .156 .126 5 8 7 • * « « 1 1 4 9 6 11 27 17 12 10 6 16 17 1 29 I 3 172 78 42 55.0 .146 13 7 1 1 4 15 38 29 18 29 1 North Carolina 3 3 58.8 59.6 .0941 18 .067j 8 ^ 3 4 5.... 5 14 2 14 7 3 " • • • 1 « • a • '- 6 1 8 • • • - • > . , 3 2 3 120 42 3 59.1 5L7 53.0 .085 26 . 132 .... .113...- 29 2 H 4 5 16 20 3 1 1.... Ohio 13 8 1 2 2 1 1 7 2 1.... 2 3 45 51.8 53.3 53.9 .131.... .132 66 .109 22 2 63 29 30 131 161 6 3 13 9 8| 3 1 69 16 2 2 1 2 Pennsylvania. 11 11 624 524 48 42 32 31 50 63 56 115 56 31 54 20 65 16 29 8 6 11 1,148 53.6 .121! 88 1 92 90 63 113 171 87 85j 74 81 37 6 Tennessee 2 2 167 29 57.9 57.9 .O97I 35 .097 11 15 1 14 24 17 5 25 6 18 6 2:} 9 1 4 « ■ • r ; • • • • " ■ • ■ 2 196 57.9 .097 46 16 6' H 24 22 31 10 4 .... .... Virginia 2 2 133 8 57.7 58.3 .099 8 .112 3 26 8 12 18 25 1 17 11 1 4 3 I 2 • • • • 1 1 2 141 57.7 099| 11 26 H 13 18 26 17 12 4 3 2 1 Wisconsin 2 1 292 17 54.4 53.5 . 152| 1 • ilo • » . • 10 7 2 9 lOrt! 140 26 1 10 2 48 6 47 3 31 2 32 1 27 37 11 5 2 37 2 37 :J09 ',064 809 54.4 55.0 54.6 .150; 1 .128 169 .nil 55 10 199 63 27 12 54 50 33 33 27 37 11 5 Grand total. 131 49 133 37 256 109 248 172 221 80 194 39 159 34 186 21 47 10 15 Total. 38 2 ,873 54.8 .123 224 1 262 246 180 170 365 420| 301 233 193 207 57 15 WORKING CONDITIONS. 211 Table 73. — Average Full-Time Hours per WTrpTr axtt^ a^ i=.t>»^., r^ OTHER EMLOYEES, HOSIERY AND UNDERWEARra MALE. Piece- workers or time work- ers. Es- tab- lish- m'ts. Em- ploy- ees. Av. full- time hrs. per w'k. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Employees earning each classified rate of wages per hour. States. Un- der 5 cts. 5 and un- der 7 Cts. 7 and un- der 8 cts. 8 and un- der 9 cts. 9 and un- der 10 cts. 10 and un- der 12 cts. 5 37 12 and un- der 14 cts. 14 and un- der 16 cts. 16 and un- der 18 cts. 23 40 18 a d un- der 20 cts. 20 and un- der 25 cts. 25 and un- der 30 cts. 11 71 30 cts. and over. Grand total... Piece.. Time.. TotAl. 4 5 5 116 500 54 9 54.7 $0,200 .190 5 21 16 196 17 31 26 56 — • • • > — 3 4 13 41 — — 616 54.7 .192 — > • B . — 3 4 42 26 212 63 48 82 82 54 OTHER EMPLOYEES, HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR: a FEMALE Grand total... Piece.. Time.. Total. 338 189 527 54.2 54.2 54.2 $0,155 .134 .148 11 11 10 11 21 15 6 21 29 41 70 47 28 75 50 80 130 45 14 59 61 3 64 55 1 56 2 1 o Establishments making both hosiery and underwear. Table 74 shows the average rates of wages per hour, average full time weekly eammgs, and average and clLi&d fuU-timX^ S week of employees in the establShments in each State fromThLh data were secured, by years, 1913 and 1914. Table 74.— Average Rates op Wages per Hour Avfratf Vrm -rr^x. mi- Earnings, and Average and Classified Cl-tIme HotiRs SL Week il pfn^ State, by Years, 1913 and 1914. -tiuuRs per week in Each [The figures for both years are for identical establishments.! BOARDERS, HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR: MALE. Year. Em- ploy- Aver age full- time hours per week. - Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Aver age fuil- time week- ly earn- ings. Employees whose full-time hours per week were— State and number of estab- lishments. Un- der 48. 48 and un- der 51. 51 and un- der 54. 54. Ovei 54 and un- der 57. 8 8 57 and un- der 60. CO. Over GO. Georgia (3) 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 64 69 25 41 105 106 272 282 29 32 49 53 368 335 75 79 38 42 53 48 78 87 58.6 58.6 55.9 56.1 55.0 55.0 54.0 54.0 58.0 55.0 59.4 59.4 55.1 54.2 58.2 57.9 57.3 57.6 55.0 55.0 54.8 55.2 $0,151 .165 .229 .181 .226 .246 .218 .226 .190 .218 .161 .177 .254 .279 .164 .152 .166 .170 .289 .279 .234 .225 .223 .231 $8.81 9.68 12.75 10.18 12.45 13.55 n.77 12.22 11.02 11.99 9.53 10.49 13.99 15.13 9.52 8.78 9.51 9.82 15.89 15.32 12.77 12.45 26 29 12 15 30 32 Illinois (2) 13 Indiana (2) Massachusetts (3) ■• . . . 24 "272 282 "ios 106 ""2 iNew riampshire (2) North Carolina (3) "32 6 "29 ii "43 42 Pennsylvania (11) 368 88 '"""e Tennessee (2) Virginia (2) Wisconsin (2) 77 i;6 69 79 32 42 ' "e Other States (9) " '3 "" '5 4 18 81 si 27 323 503 M 48 3 49 io 7 ""■'e Total (41) 1,156 1,174 55.5 55.3 12.32 12.69 3 549 331 178 183 So 76 ^ 1 L ■ 212 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 74. — Average Rates op Wages per Hour, Average Full-time Weekly Earnings, and Average and Classified Full-time Hours per Week im Each State, by Years, 1913 and 1914— Continuod. INSPECTORS and FOLDERS, HOSIERY AND UNDERWFAR: FEMALE. • Year. Em- ploy- ees. Aver- age full- time hours per week. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. A ver- age full- time week- ly earn- ings Employees wliose full-time hours per week were— state and number of estab- lishments. Un- der 48. 48 and un- der 51. 51 and un- der 54. 54. Over 54 and un- der 57. 9H H 6 4.) 57 and un- der 60. m. Over 60. Connecticut (3) 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 66 98 67 52 55 45 306 372 65 91 587 545 29 29 70 61 145 185 37 43 48 69 38 58 5H.3 55.0 58. 7 58.9 55.0 55.0 54.0 54.0 58.0 5.x 54.0 51.0 59.8 59.9 5:}. 8 52.5 5.). 8 54.0 58.5 57.9 55. 55.0 5.5.2 55.1 $0,149 .148 .115 .118 .130 .141 .143 .155 .150 .162 .157 .162 .142 .146 .118 .144 .141 .145 .134 .132 .151 .155 .155 .146 $H.65 8.12 6.79 6.96 7.16 7.74 7.71 K.39 8.70 8.89 8.46 8.75 8.48 8.76 6.36 7.60 7.86 7.81 7.84 7.62 N.32 H.53 22 31 ' ( i eorgia (3) 23 13 36 33 Indiana (2) Massachusetts (3) 306 372 New Hampshire (2) 65 91 New York (17) 687 545 North Carolina (3) 1 ..... "34 28 28 Ohio(5) ""9 2 4 6 64 46 "ill I'ennsylvania (9) 18 167 Tennessee (2) 27 43 10 Wisconsin (4) 4N 69 3 Other States (6) H.51 K.10 4 21 41 10 17 Total (59) 1,513 1,648 55.1 54.5 .146 .153 K.a3 8.35 ""9 2 8 24 978 1,171 239 309 181 74 105 61 KNITTERS, FOOTERS, OR TOPPERS, HOSIERY: MALE. Georgia (3) Nev Hampshire (2) Tennessee (2) Virginia (2) Other States (3) Total (12).. 1913 43 58,3 $0. 127 1914 42 58,9 .121 1913 33 .5-8.0 .179 1914 28 5.').0 .195 1913 75 58.8 .132 1914 79 58.0 .119 1913 22 56.7 .1.56 1914 33 57.8 .143 1913 16 5«).5 .154 1914 1913 49 54.3 .167 189 58.1 .113 1914 231 57.0 .142 17. 38 7.10 10.38 10. 71 7.75 6.89 X.80 H.29 1.71 9.08 8.33 S.06 9 46 9 46 5 1 28 ia 17 29 24 20 33 46 79 10 33 1 1 114 133 KNITTERS, FOOTERS, OR TOPPKRS, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Connecticut (2) Georgia (3) Illinois (3) Massachusetts (3)... New Hampshire (3) . North Carolina (3).. Ohio (3) Pennsylvania (8) Teimessee (2) Virginia (2) Wisconsin (2) Other States (2) Total (36) 14 21 29 6 2 49 23 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 111 134 130 120 166 174 59.1 55.0 57.3 57.4 54.6 5.3.8 $0. 157 .157 .019 .114 .128 .112 f\K 25 .s.66 »>.27 6.54 Pennsylvania (S) 83 14 5 4 7» 19 Other States (16) 2 16 23 99 23 14 28 23 21 " ■ • ■ " Total (27) 250 296 55.2 54.8 .142 .152 7.86 8.31 2 5 18 107 14 28 23 21 MENDERS, ROUGH, HOSIERY: FEMALE. Connecticut (3) Georgia (3) Indiana (2) Massachusetts (3).. . New Hampshire (3) Pennsylvania (9) . . . Tennessee (2) Wisconsin (2) Other States (12)... Total (39) 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 36 48 79 82 134 125 109 117 71 60 207 206 78 41 81 77 129 111 924 867 59.0 55.0 58.4 58.5 55.0 55.0 54.0 54.0 58.0 55.0 56.1 63.9 58.5 58.0 55. 55.0 56.8 55.3 $0,148 .161 .110 .114 .143 .147 .146 .140 .142 .159 .173 .169 .126 .109 .132 .148 .124 .144 56. 3 . 142 55. 11 . 148 $8.73 8.87 6. 15 0. <)() 7.87 8.11 7.H6 7 57 8 26 8.74 9 70 9 09 7 :J6 6 :«) 7-27 8 14 7. (JO 7 92 8 00 8. 11 27 13 29 13 66 109 117 17H 24 3H| 133 333 1 48 14 11 134 125 16 30 35 60 150 81 77 12 392 321 19 35 3 131 128 143 Pennsvlvania (4) • - • • • • . . . Other States (3) 10. >1Z 10. 40 10.04 8.50 "hi • • • ■ . 105 - • > is 22 6 Total (9) 293 306 55.1 54.4 .170 .173 9.38 9.41 -- 287 150 6 61 105 WORKING CONDITIONS. 215 Table 74. — Average Rates op Wages per Hour, Average Full-time Weekly Earnings, and Average and Classified Full-time Hours per Week in Each State, by Years, 1913 and 1914— Continued. TOPPERS, FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY: FEMALE. Year. Em- ploy- ees. Aver- age full- time hours per week. Aver- age rate of wages per hour. Aver- age full- time week- ly earn- ings. Employees whose full-time hours per week were— State and number of estab- lishments. Un- der 48. 48 and un- der 51. 51 and un- der 54. 54. Over 54 and im- der 57. 57 and un- der 60. 60. Over 6a Pennsylvania (3) 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 212 244 236 236 55.1 53.9 55.2 54.9 $0,166 .157 .140 .144 $9.15 8.47 7.74 7.90 212 Ill 133 Other States (3) 222 234 14 2 Total (6) 448 480 55.1 54.4 .152 .161 8.41 8.17 434 234 14 1914 2 HI 133 WELTERS, HOSIERY AND UNDERWARE: FEMALE. Georgia (3) Massachusetts (3) New York (6)..., Pennsylvania (6). Other States (12). Total(30).. 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 25 29 132 128 34 49 64 73 74 67 329 346 58.6 58.6 54.0 54.0 54.0 54.0 55.7 54.0 57.6 56.9 55.5 54.9 $0. 117 133 140 144 191 188 179 198 136 150 150 162 $6.86 7.79 7.57 7.77 10.33 10.16 9.97 10.70 7.78 8.47 8.31 8.86 132 128 34 49 73 5 3 171 253 55 18 25 75 27 12 16 9 26 18 47 34 11 11 25 20 36 31 WINDERS, HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR: FEMALE. Connecticut (3) Indiana(2) Massachusetts (3)... New Hampshire (4) NewY^ork(16) Ohio(5) Pennsylvania (11). . Wisconsin (4) Other States (5).... Total (53) 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 1913 1914 35 39 69 71 259 377 60 76 468 436 31 31 238 279 30 35 35 37 1,225 1,381 57.6 55.0 55.0 55.0 54.0 54.0 58.0 55.0 54.0 54.0 53.8 53.4 55.6 53.9 53.9 52.8 65.9 56.5 54.7 54.1 $0,148 .164 .154 .155 .142 .138 .148 .152 .178 .177 .143 .129 .137 .149 .177 .133 .116 .124 .156 .164 $8. 9. 8. 8. 7. 7. 8. 8. 9. 9. 7. 6. 7. 8. 9. 7. 6. 6. 55 01 47 52 64 44 57 36 59 56 69 89 63 04 62 11 48 99 8.52 8.36 67 2 69 259 377 468 436 29 28 10 39 69 71 17 60 76 212 15 11 193 46 261 29 6 771 303 1,064 215 11 25 133 25 11 An attempt was made to gather information concerning the volume and regularity of employment in this industry during the year ended March, 1914, and the amount paid out in wages during the same period. Such figures do not, ojT course, show the number of unem- ployed desu-ing work in an industry. Furthermore, the loss of em- ployment in an estabhshment does not necessarily mean unemploy- ment, as the employees may find work elsewhere in the same or some other industry. The material presented, while not strictly data con- cerning unemployment, may be accepted, however, as indicative of the amoimt of unemployment in the industry covered. kt Jfr r,_ owW: 216 THE HOSIERY INDUSTBY. Data were obtained from 39 establishments covering the number ot days the plant was m operation, th(^ number of employees on the pay roll, and the amomit of the pay roll for each pay period for a duriiig the'' eaf ^'''''''^ ''^ ^^^ '''''^^^^ ""^ ^^^^ *^^ ^^'"^^ "^^ ^^*^"^^ Table 75.— Average Days Establishments were in OpERATtoN Numbfii op Employees Total Amount of Pay Rolls, and Averace ]<:ARNiNGS per Em PLOYEE IN Two Weeks, for One Year, by Two-Week Periods HOSIERY. 35 ESTABLISHMENTS. Two-week period ending approximately- Aprill2 April 26 May 10 May 24 Jiine 7 June 21 July 5 July 19 August 2 August 16.... August 30 September 13. September 27. October 11... Octol)er 25. . . Novembers.. November 22. December 6.. December 20.. Januarys... January 17.. Januiuy 31.. February 14. February 28. March 14 March 28 Average. Aprill2 Aj)ril26 May 10 May24 Jime7 June 21 Julys July 19 August 2 August 16 August 30 September 13. September 27. October 11... October 25 Novembers.. November 22. December 6... December 20. . January 3 . . . January 17.. Jtinuary 31 . . February 14. February 28. March 14 March 28 1913. Average number of days in operation . 11.9 1L9 12.0 11.6 Employees. Total amount of })ay rolls. II II 10 10 11.8 11.9 11.5 1914. II 11 II II 12 II. II. 1 11. 1 9.0 11.6 U. II. IL 11. 12. U.5 15,052 14,997 14,815 14,818 14,990 15, 128 14,921 14.990 14,910 14,881 14,821 14,830 14,899 14,940 14,986 14,993 14,975 14,971 14,923 14, 167 14,519 14,938 14,479 14. 749 14,899 15, 105 14,873 J245,093.20 2 U. 084. 58 240, 708. 91 2.'W),824.84 222, 494. 50 242,302.30 204, 489. 69 -'22,974.73 -'■{•I, 095. 21 2;U),213.94 228,320.15 223,408.31 244, 505. 75 2->;i, 500. 05 2.'): {,099. 91 251,849.53 24H,317.5,043 OH, 714 «999 «702 b 143, 607 6 675,498 b 787, 079 / o 13,213 \ 6 334,297 Valued at not more than $0.70 per dozen pairs Valued at more than $0.70 and not more than $1.20 per dozen pairs Valued at more than $1.20 per dozen pairs Made on knitting machines or frames, not otherwise provided for (cut-out hose) 23,933 134,891 229,046 318,743 350,658 Total 5,068,002 4,477,783 2,933,129 O QJO A^l ^ noo ncii 1 2,194,371 *,u^o, »oi « Period from July 1 to Oct. 3, 1913. 218 b Period from Oct. 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914. Table 76.— Quantity and Value op Hosiery Made of Cotton or Other Vege- table Fiber Imported for Consumption During the Fiscal Years Ending June 30, 1909-1914— Continued. VALUE. Articles. 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 Selvaged, fashioned^ narrowed, or shaped wholly or m part by knit- ting machines or frames, or knit by hand^ including such as are com- mercially known as seamless or clocked stockings, hose and half hose, finished or imflnished: Valued at not more than $1 per dozen pairs $2,777,715 1,475,472 1,881,515 153,215 58,088 27,969 $1,901,121 1,526,256 2,056,759 173,517 57, 727 31,337 $986,841 1,006,287 1,516,921 123,807 40,48:j 22,17:j $754,704 762,051 1,099,172 69,828 28,629 23,228 $572,397 586,652 1,099,517 67,090 26,326 23,667 a $55, 320 80,117 225,853 o9,622 o3,986 o4,9S4 &90,563 «> 690, 130 b 1,610,206 / o8,495 \ 6 170,402 Valued at more than $1 and not more than $1 .50 per dozen pairs. Valued at more than $1.50 and not more than $2 per dozen pairs Valued at more than $2 and not more than $3 per dozen pairs.. Valued at more than $3 and not more than $5 per dozen pairs . . . Valued at more than $5 per dozen pairs Valued at not more than $0.70 per dozen pairs Valued at more than $0.70 and not more than $1.20 per dozen pairs Valued at more than $1.20 per dozen pairs Made on knitting machines or frames, not otherwise provided for (cut-out hose) 16,947 78,383 128i507 174,788 178,265 Total 6,390,921 5,825,100 3,824,969 2,912,400 2,553,914 2,»49,678 a Period from July 1 to Oct. 3, 1913. b Period from Oct. 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914. The statistics of imports that appear in this report do not include very small imports from the Phihppines, on which no duty is paid, nor very small imports from Cuba, which are admitted at 20 per cent less than the regular tariff rates. RATES OF DUTY UNDER RECENT TARIFF ACTS. In examining Table 76 it should be remembered that three tariff acts were in force during the six fiscal years from 1909 to 1914. The act of 1897 (Dingley Act) remained in effect until August 4, 1909. The act of 1909 (rayne-Aldrich Act) was in effect from August 5, 1909, to October 3, 1913. The act of 1913 (Underwood-Simmons Act) went into effect October 4, 1913. The rates of duty on cotton hosiery under these acts are shown in Table 77. Table 77. — Rates op Duty on Cotton Hosiery Under Tariff Acts of 1897 1909 and 1913. Valued, per dozen pairs, at— Not more than $1. More than $1 and not more than $1.50. More than $1.50 and not more than $2. More than $2 and not more than $3. More than $3 and not more than $5. . More than $5 Not more than 70 cents More than 70 cents and not more than $1.20. More than $1.20 Not otherwise provided for (cutout hose). Dingley Act, July 24, 1897, to Aug. 4, 1909. 50 cents per dozen+15 per cent. 60 cents per dozen+15 per cent. 70 cents per dozen+15 per cent. $1.20 per dozen+15 per cent. $2 per dozen+15 per cent. . 55 per cent 30 per cent. Payne- Aldrich Act, Au". 5, I'm, to Oct. 3, 1913. 70 cents per dozen +15 per cent. 85 cents per dozen+15 per cent. 90 cents per dozen+15 per cent. $1.20 per dozen+15 per cent. $2 per dozen+15 per cent . . 55 per cent 30 per cent. Underwood- Simmons Act, Oct. 4, 1913. Percent. 30 40 m 220 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Tabic 76, which states the quantity and value of inn)ortations of hosiery, shows that the importations during the last full year that the Vmglej Act was m force, the fiscal year ending June M 1909 amounted to $6,390,921, and were much larger thin for any' of the years following. ij> ^ luc As shown by the Census of Manufactures, the production of cotton «?on^ o'l7 a** ^u**'-'' ^^''^'^ amounted in the calendar year 1909, to 7n «fi wn oo? " 3™??'"*''*'°°^ °^ ^"•■'' ^°^'^^y in 1^"9. amounting to $6,390,921, were 11.43 per cent of the production in 1909, but they have decreased to less than one-half of what they were in tliat year. Ihe importations in the fiscal year 1914, amounting to $2 949 678 were only 5.28 per cent of the production in 1909. xi.i.U no stW known^tb^r^ production in later years are avaUabTe, it is well known that many old hosiery mills hav increased their output and many new hosiery miUs have begun operations in the last five years. Iherelorc, the percentage of importations of hosiery compared with theproduction m the Umted States is now smaUer than ,5.28 per cent Ihe imports of cotton hosierj^ for consumption during tlie fiscal year 1914 amounted to $2,949,678, and those of other cotton knit goods, except gloves, to .$341,973, the total being $3,201,651 The amount of exports is not given separately for hosiery and other knit goods, but the exports of all cotton knit goods amounted I o $2,546 8'2 during the fiscal year 1914. ,j^",o.^ nf In? rPi?'*^ °f l^® ^"'■''"^ °* *^** ^™^"« ^o not show the production of fuU-f ashioned hosiery separately from the production o^ seamless hosiery It is known, however, that in the United States the production ot seamless hosiery is very much greater than the production of full- tashioned hosieiy Davison'sHosiery and Knit GooSs Trade Directory shows that in 1914 there were in the United States 93 mills knitting luil-fashioned hosiery and 647 knitting seamless hosiery t:„on"P'''"''*'^/^7 ^'"^*' seamless hosiery is made in Euroi)e, and prac- 4f^Z ° T^ ""^ It except hose for infants, is imported into the uSited States, rhe cost of labor m the manufacture of seamless hosiery is comparatively smaU, as the circular maclunes on which such hosferv is knit are largely automatic, and are operated by girls who each attend to from 4 to 16 machines. For t&s reason th" labrcosris J^uIa ^SfV*"^ 'i"^'' seamless hosiery has been imported into the Umted States under any tanflT, mcluding the act of 1913 The fnvZl.''^J,ZT^l^^ seamless hosiery are nearly all made in America. iple, especially women , because it hts better than does seamless hosiery. While iTnder Ihe new Tariff the imports of seamless hosiery continued to be practically nothing, the imports of full-fashioned hosiery made of cotton somewhat increased, for the reason that some people will buy full-fashioned hosiery at 25 to 50 cents rather than pay the same price for seandess hosiery. To some extent, therefore, American manufacturers of cotton hosiery, whether seamless or full fashioned, had a slightly increased foreign competition from the time that the new tariff act went into effect (Oct. 4, 1913) to the beginning of the war in Europe on about August 1, 1914, but, as stated before, this mcrease was insignificant when compared with the total production in the United States. No tariff act has ever made a distinction between the rate of duty / on full-fashioned hosiery and seamless hosiery. / IMPORTS DURING RECENT YEARS. During the fiscal year 1913 the importations for consumption of cotton hosiery were $2,553,914, and during the fiscal year 1914 they were $2,949,078, an increase of $395,764, or 15.5 per cent. This mcrease may be accounted for in part by the lower duties that pre- yailed for about nine months from October 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914, and in part by the fact that in the fiscal year ending June 30,' 1913^ foreign goods were held back from entry into the United States to some extent in anticipation of lower rates of duty. The imports of hosiery for consumption in the fiscal year 1914 were much less than m 1909, 1910, 1911, or (in respect to quantity) 1912. Notwithstanding the fact that under the >ayne-Aldrich Act the equivalent ad valorem rates of duty on low-priced hosiery were higher than on the higher priced hosiery," the bulk oi the importations under that act was of the grade of hosiery valued at $2 or less per dozen. Under the Payne-Aldrich Act, as well as under the Under- wood-Smimons Act, a large part of the importations of hosiery con- sisted of full-fashioned socks for children or infants, which are not manufactured at all in the United States. The quantity and yalue of general imports of cotton hosiery uito the United States from specified countries during the five fiscal years from 1910 to 1914, inclusiye, are shown in Table 78. Table 78.— Quantity and Value op General Imports of Cotton Stockincs Hose, and Half Hose During the Fiscal Years Ended June 30 1910-1914' BY Countries. ' ' Countries from which imported. France Germany Japan Spain Switzerland United Kingdom: England. Scotland Ireland other countries Total... Dozen pairs. & 1911 8,934 2, 718, 772 9 8,520 42 13,493 2 138 1,479 1912 6,. 572 2,202,50o 7 3,409 2 13,64t) 4 113 991 1913 7,387 2,131,678 4 687 14,301 12 119 223 1914 8,977 2,375,494 14 12,364 17,381 1 222 4,948 Vakie. 1910 2, 751 , 477 2, 227, 249 2, 1 54 . 11 1 2. 419. 401 5,815,403 1911 $56,214 $30. 484 5,705,073 3,5-38,592 813 62 6, 148 4,044 574 158 44,3(>3 39,619 37 10 1,470 460 711 1,724 1912 3,615,1.53 $28. 882 2,713,813 11 1,730 3 39, S2ti 3 590 1,310 2, 786, KVS 1913 $30,18,1 1914 $3.j,6S3 2,631,218 3,050,939 6 355 41,006 48 790 23«i 24 6,068 42,942 6 718 8,26,5 2,703,,S44i3,144,&45 a See average ad valorem rates of duty in Table 80 on p. 225 of thLs report b Quantities not stated prior to 191 1 . « «^puri . il 222 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. ft J^lf w!f r ^^^"^^^"^ the total for each year shown in this table for bl ?he w/tj; T^K-^flf^^T "> ^'?'« 76 (p. 219) is accounted tor by the fact that this table shows the importations for immediate XSrv^P^"' .!?"?'' '""^'''-^ ^ ''""d^d warehouses' S the other table shows the importations for immediate consuiption nlus those withdrawn from bonded warehouses «i«umpuon pius. rlL^^^ ^% obserred that the bulk of the importations are from Germany In the fiscal year 1913 the value of hosiery imported Ece'Ind Clanf ""''' ''' *'^ "'^^^'^•'■- ^^ ^P-*^^ from deSS l^son^^'ny'^r*' ^^^^ *? importations of cotton hosiery decreased 1,300,507 dozen pau^, valued at $1,496,781 . The importa- Table 79 shows the importations of cotton hosieir of different classified values durmg the 21 fiscal yoai« from 1894 to 1914 durk^* Sote ^"^ *"'' ''^ *^^°' *«''^^' 1«^7' 1909' and 1913 wSS PORTED FOB CONSUMPTION DUBING THE FiSCAL YeABS EnDED Jcn™1894 TO TARIFF ACT OF 1890. Valued not more than 60 cents per dozen pairs. Fiscal year ended June 30— 1894. 1895. Rate of duty. 20 cents per dozen and 20 per cent. ...do Quantity. Dozen pairs 941,388 156,696 Value. 1551,541 90,889 Duty col- lected. $298,586 49,517 Average valua per dozen pairs. $0.59 ..18 Average ari valorem raid of duty. Per eeru. 54.14 54.48 Valued more than 60 cents and not mor, than i2 per dozen pairs. 1894. 1895. 50 cents per dozen and 30 per cent. ....do 2,390,093 175,855 $2,853,817 195,200 $2,051,192 146,488 $1.19 1.11 71.88 75.08 Valued more than t2 and not more than H per dozen pairs. 1894. 1895. 1897. 75 cents per dozen and 40 per cent. ....do ....do : 68,926 2,429 293 $184,447 6,761 886 $125,473 4,526 574 $2.68 2.78 3.03 68.03 6«}.90 64,76 Valued more than t4 per dozen pairs. 1894. 1895. $1 per dozen and 40 per cent . do 7,345 295 $43,939 1,971 TARIFF ACT OF 1894. A II values. $24,921 1,083 1895. 1896. 1897. 1898. 50 per cent. do do ....do 5,485,368 5,181,506 5,387,960 326,075 15, 798, 552 ■'j,605,241 5,483,996 337,678 $2,899,276 2, 802, 621 2,741,998 168,839 $1.0^16 50.00 1.08 5JI.00 1.02 50.00 1.04 50.00 FOREIGN TRADE. 223 Table 79.— Cotton Stockings, Hose and Half Hose, Selvedged, Fashioned Narrowed, or Shaped Wholly or in Part by Knitting Machines or Frames' or Knit by Hand, Including Such as are Commercially Known as Seamless OR Clocked Stockings, Hose, or Half Hose, Finished or Unfinished Im- ported for Consumption During the Fiscal Years Ended June 30, 1894 to 1913 — Contmued. TARIFF acts OF 1897 AND 1909. Valued not more than $1 per dozen pairs. Fiscal year ended June 30— Rate of duty. Quantity. Value. Duty col- lected. Average value per dozen pairs. Averajre ad valorem rate of duty. 1898 50 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. do Dnzenryiirf. 1,729,160 2,115,099 2,138,003 1,642,889 1,841,672 1,992,685 2,231,380 2,342,901 2,501,679 2,449,278 1,879,988 2,914,982 628,801 1,417,575 1,091,485 846,686 640,793 $1,533,153 1,922,589 1,977,321 1.576.356 1,749,592 1,893,048 2,142,013 2,236,114 2,342,844 2,350,250 1,817,305 2,777,715 599,365 1,301,756 986,841 754,704 572,397 $1,094,552 1,345,938 1,365,600 1,057,898 1,183,275 1,280,300 1,436,992 1,506,868 1,602,266 1,577,176 1,212,590 1,874,148 404,305 1,187,565 912,066 705, 886 534,415 $0,887 .925 .959 .95 .95 .959 .954 .936 .96 .967 .953 .953 .918 .904 .891 .893 Percent. 1899 7L40 1900 do 70.01 1901 do 69.06 1902 do 67.11 1903 do 67.63 1904 do 67.63 1905 do 67.09 1906 do 67.39 1907 do 68.39 1908 do..... 67.11 1909 do 66.72 1910 do 67.47 1910 70 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. 67.46 1911 91.23 1912 do 92.42 1913 do 93.53 93.36 1898. 1899. 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903. 1904. 1905. 1906. 1907. 1908. 1909. 1910. 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913. 1898. 1899. 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903. 1904. 1905. 1906. 1907. 1908. 1909. 1910. 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913. Valued more than tl and not more than 91.50 per dozen pairs. 60 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. do do do do .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. 85 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. ...do ..-.do ...do 586,875 696, 627 744,074 957,951 706, 677 698,668 910,993 955,115 1,052,835 1,15.5,694 1,347,873 1,056,005 279,085 827,531 733,369 558, 523 422,364 $751,992 902,420 948, 215 1,255,349 940, (ViS 929,9:.'3 1,249,312 l,312,5.'il 1,463,286 1,600,6:^5 1,852,263 1,475,472 380,082 1,146,174 1,006,236 762,051 586,652 $465,375 553,310 588,677 763,073 565, 106 558,690 733,993 769,950 851,194 933,512 1,086.564 854, 924 224,463 875,328 774,300 589,052 447,007 $1.28 1.30 1.27 1.31 1.31 1.33 1.37 1.37 1.39 1.37 1.37 1.40 1.36 1.39 1.37 1.36 L39 Valued more than il.50 and not more than $2 per dozen pairs. 70 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. -do. .do. .do. .do. .do. 90 cents per dozen and 15 per cent. do .do. .do. 341,014 392, 847 481,150 743,661 747,328 871,435 803,202 802. 149 96.5,349 1.330,227 1, 423. 546 995, 822 182,385 922,800 517. 150 588, 402 579, 427 $633,125 731.371 898, 179 1,412.656 1,432,186 1,665,880 1,535,955 1,511,903 1,865,238 2,557,341 2,701,166 1,881,515 347,629 1,709,130 1,516,921 1,099,172 1,099,517 $333,679 384,699 471.532 732, 461 737, 958 859,886 792, 635 7S8,290 955,530 1,314,760 1,401,657 979,303 179,814 1,086,890 962, 973 694,437 686,412 $1.86 1.86 1.87 1.89 1.92 L91 L90 1.88 1.93 1.92 1.90 L89 1.91 1.85 1.S6 1.87 1.90 61.64 61.32 62.08 60.78 60.08 60.08 58.72 58.66 ">8. 17 58.32 58.66 57.94 59.06 76.37 76.95 77.30 72.20 52.70 52.60 52.50 51.85 5L53 51.62 51.60 52.14 51.23 51.41 51.89 52.05 51.73 63.50 63.48 63.18 62.43 224 THE HOSIERY INDUSTKY. TARIFF ACTS OF 1897 AND 1909-Contmued. Valued more than t2 and not more than $3 per dozen pahs. Fiscal year ended June 30— Rate of duty. 1898. 1899. 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903. 1904. 1905. 1906. 1907. 1908. 1909- 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913. «1.20 per dozen and 15 per cent. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. -do. .do. .do. .do. .do. Quantity. Dozen pains. 66,413 72,957 82,223 118, UU 144, rm 165,3:13 108, m) 90, 9H2 107, .541 131, 4;« 111,282 58,315 65,227 48,336 26,869 25,682 Value. 1168,971 187,076 215,556 317, 153 388, 781 450,837 292,741 244,982 288,185 354, 189 291,830 153,215 173,517 123,807 69,829 67,090 Duty col- lected . $105,040 115,610 131,001 189,328 231,757 266,025 174,268 145,902 172,277 210.848 177.313 92,9«i0 104.3(J0 76.575 42,717 40,882 A verage value per dozen pairs. Valued more than tS and not more than 95 per dozen pairs. 1898. 1899. 1900. 1901. 1902. 1903. 1904. 1905. 1906. 1907. 1908. 1909. 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913. $2 per dozen and 15 per cent do .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. -do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. 22,329 21, 103 22,76« 22, Od."-* 23,2{>6 22,937 15,383 17,235 12,Ut.-, 12,775 13,017 $2.54 2.56 2.62 2.68 2.69 2.73 A verajre ad ^ \alorem rate of duty. 2.69 2.69 2.68 2.69 2.62 2.63 2.66 2.56 2.60 2.62 $57,736 $3.90 54,430 3.86 58,K51 3.90 86, 173 4.05 100, 2M2 3.98 117, 937 3.99 85, WK 4.06 58, 423 3.97 67,871 3.98 74,350 4.01 88,3;}6 3.88 38,616 3.89 38,274 3.90 27, 289 3.82 3.96 3.92 Per cent. 62.1 61.80 60.77 59.69 59.61 59.01 59. 52 59. 5 65. 2>. 64.86 66.56 66.48 66.30 67.41 65.54 65.99 $6.31 55.00 6.80 55.00 6.62 55.00 5.89 55.00 6. 13 55.00 6.60 55.00 6.54 55.00 6.84 55.00 6.92 55.00 6.64 55.00 6.49 55.00 7.00 55.00 6.69 55.00 7.07 55.00 7.20 55.00 7.07 55.00 FOREIGN TRADE. 225 Table 80.— Cotton Stockings, Hose and Half Hose, Made on Knitting Machines or Frames and not Specially Provided for (Cut-out Hose) Imported for Consumption During the Fiscal Years Ended June 30 1894' to 1913. ' ' Fiscal year ended Jime 30^ 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897. 1898. 1S99. 1900. 1901- 1902- 1903- 1904- 1905. 1906- 1907. 1908- 1909- 1910. 1911. 1912. 1913- Rate of duty. Quantity. 35 per cent . r...-do (30 per cent . do do do do do ..-.do do do do do do ---.do ---.do ....do do .-..do -...do .---do 69,184 4,848 96,012 33,774 13,927 20,736 21,055 8,619 6,967 23, 191 22,939 22,213 14,159 31,436 27,141 25,789 23,933 134,891 229,046 31S, 744 350, 658 Average Valu© Duty value per collected. dozen pair. a $37, 114 $12,990 $0.54 o 2, 561 896 .53 39,844 11,953 .41 18, 495 5,549 .55 6,179 1,854 .44 16,254 4,876 .784 13,038 3,911 .619 5,110 i,5:« .593 3,039 912 .436 11,485 3,446 .495 10, 12a 3,038 .441 7,92d 2,378 .357 7, 134 2,140 .504 15,620 4,686 .497 16,001 4,800 .59 18,091 5,427 .711 16,947 5,084 .708 78,383 23,515 .581 128, .507 38,552 .561 174, 788 52,436 .548 178,265 53,479 .508 Average ad valo- rem rate of duty. 35.00 35.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 moo 30.00 30.00 :30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 ;jo.oo 30.00 30.00 a Valued not more than $1.50 per dozen (act of 1890). Table 81 summarizes the importations of cotton hosiery of all classified values during the fiscal year 1913. Table 81.— Quantity, Value, Duty Collected, Average Price, Rate of Di-ty AND Equivalent Ad Valorem Rate op Duty for Cotton Hosiery Imported FOR Consumption During the Fiscal Year Ended June 30 1913 Valued, x)er dozen pairs, at — Not more than .?1 . . . $1.01 to $1.50 $1.51 to $2 $2.01 to $3 $3.01 to $5 More than $5 Not otherwise pro- vided for (cut-out hose). Total. Rate of duty. 70 cents per dozen +15 per cent. 85 cents per dozen +15 per cent. 90 cents per dozen +15 per cent- $1.20 per dozen+15 per cent. . . $2 per dozen+15 per c«nt 55 per cent 30 per cent Quantity, Dozen pair.'t. 640,793 422,364 579, 427 25,682 6,712 3,345 350,6.58 Value. $572,397 586,652 1,099,517 67,090 26,326 23,667 178,265 2,028,981 2,553,914 Duty collected. $5.34,415 447,007 686,412 40,882 17,374 13,017 53,479 1,792,586 Average value per dozen pairs. $0,893 1.39 1.90 2.62 3.92 7.07 .508 1.259 -\ verage ad valo- rem rate of duty. Per cent. 93.36 76.20 62.43 60.94 65.99 55.00 30.00 70.19 The foregomg table for the last full year that the Payne-Aldrich Act was m force shows that under that act the equivalent ad valorem rate of duty was higher on cotton hosiery of lower price than on the hmher-priced grades. The average rate collected on the grades valued at $1 per dozen or less was 93.36 per cent: the average rate for all grades was 70.19. 91)f,3°_15. -15 # (jJ|LL 226 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Table 82 shows the imports of cotton hosiery oi various o^rades entered for consumption during each quarter of tlu^ last year of tho tariff act of 1909— that is, from October 1, 1912, to October 3 1913 inclusive— together with the duty coUected and the ad valorem' eqmvalent of the specific and ad valorem rates of duty. Table 82.— Quantity and Value op Cotton Hosiery Imported for Consump- tion, AND Duty Paid Thereon, under the Tariff Act ok 1909 by Oumiteh-^ FROM Oct. 1, 1912, to Oct. 3, 1913, incluhive. ' Wuarter^, Imports for consumption. iini es of dut y . Grades. Quantity. Value. Duty col- lected. Schedule rate. Average ad valorem equiva- lent. Amount. I'er cent of total. Oct. 1, 1912, to Dec. 31, 1912: Fashioned and seamless ho- siery valued, per dozen pairs, at — Not more than $1 Dozen pairs. 125,013 88,548 108,637 4,466 1,079 655 27,950 $114,584 123,548 207,079 11,620 4,291 4,674 14,296 23. 87 25.74 43.13 2.42 .89 .97 2.98 $104,697 93, 798 128,835 7,103 2,802 2,570 4,289 70<'doz.+lV;i 8ot iloz.+l.r^ 90<>doz.+1.5% $1.2iidoz.415%.... $2doz.+15% 55% Per cent. More than $1 and not more than $1.50. More than $1.50 and not more than $2. More than $2 and not more than $3. More than $3 and not more than $5. More than $5 91. 37 75.92 62.22 61.13 a5.30 Not specially provided for (cut-out hose). mv 30 Total 356,348 480,092 100.00 344,094 - - 71. 67 Jan. 1, 1913, to Mar. 31, 1913: Fashioned and seamless ho- siery valued, per dozen pairs, at— Not more than $1 More than $1 and not more than $1.50. More than $1.50 and not more than $2. More than $2 and not more than $3. More than $3 and not more than $5. More than $5 232,071 114,186 182,723 7,501 2,034 1,213 157,973 200,548 159,257 343,650 19, 762 8,042 8,361 81,326 24.43 19.40 41.86 2.41 .98 1.02 9.90 192, 532 120,946 215,999 11,966 5,274 4,598 24,398 70«(loz.+irt% Soi- doz.+irf/o 90f doz.+i:.^^ $i2odoz.+ i:,%.... $2doz.-fl5% 55'-; 30'', 96. ") 65. ")S Not specially provided for (cut-out hose). 55 30 Total 697, 701 820,946 100.00 575,713 70. 13 Apr. 1, 1913. to June 30, 1913: Fashioned and seamless ho- siery valued, per dozen pairs, at— Not more than $1 121,804 80,555 132, 705 5,470 1,740 602 149,036 110,023 112, 126 254,855 14,317 6,851 4,196 74,389 19.07 19.44 44.19 2.48 1.19 .73 12.90 101,766 85,291 157,663 8,712 4,507 2,308 22,317 70<'«loz.-f-15f'; 85eiJoz.-i-15% OOttfoz.+lS'^o $1.20doz.+ ir.%.... $2doz.+15rc 55'; More than $1 and not more than $1.50. More than $1.50 and not more than $2. More than $2 jmd not more than $3. More than $3 and not more than $5. More than $5 92.. 10 76. 07 61. SO 60.85 65.79 Not specially provided for (cut-out hose). 55 30^; 30 Total 491,912 576,757 100.00 382,564 66. :>i -^.l; — =^ aUffl FOREIGN TRADE. 227 Table 82.— Quantity and Value of Cotton Hosiery Imported for Consump- tion, AND Duty Paid Thereon, under the Tariff Act of 1909 hy Ouartfrs from Oct. 1, 1912, to Oct. 3, 1913, iNCLUsiVE-Continued ' ^^^«^*'««' Imports for consumption. Rates of duty. CJrades. Quantity. Value. Duty col- lected. Schedule rale. Average ad valorem equiva- lent. Amount. Per cent of total. Juhr 1, 1913, to Oct. 3, 1913: Fashioned and seamless ho- siery valued, per dozen pairs, at— Not more than $1 Dozen pairs. 60,310 58,909 116,043 3,714 999 702 13,213 253, 890 r)5,320 80,117 225,853 9,622 3,986 4,984 8,495 388, 377 14.24 20.63 58.15 2.48 1.03 1.28 2.19 100 00 $50,515 62,090 138,316 0,901 2,596 2,741 2,548 '2M 707 70<:doz.4-15C; 85<;doz.+l.')';^, 90<'doz.+15% $1.20doz.+159J.... $2doz.+15% 55% Per cent. More than $1 and not more than $1.50. More than $1.50 and not more than $2. More than $2 and not more than $3. More than $3 and not more than $5. More than $5 91.31 77.50 61.24 61.3;j 65.13 Not specially provided for (cut-out hose). Total .=>5 30% .'■ :io .>u Total. Oct. 1, 1912, to Oct. 3, 1913: Fashioned and seamless ho- siery valued, per dozen pairs, at— Not more than $1 539, 198 342,198 540, 108 21, 151 5,852 3,172 348,172 480, 475 475,048 1,031,437 55,321 23, 170 22,215 178,506 21.20 20. 9t) 45.52 2.44 1.02 .98 7.88 449,510 362, 125 640,813 ;«,682 15,179 12,217 53,552 70"«'" FOREIGN TRADE. 229 Table 83 shows that the vahie of im])ortAtions of cotton hosiery during the first year of the new tariff, October 4, 1913, to September 30, 1914, was $3,072,691, as compared with the value of the importa- tions of cotton hosiery during the last year of the old tariff, Octo- ber 1, 1912, to October 3, 1913, S2,266,172, shown in Table 81, an mcrease of 35.59 per cent. Table 83 further shows that the average ad valorem rate paid on the importations during the first year of the new tariff was 44.89 per cent. This may be compared with the duty paid on importations during the last full year of the Payne-Aldrich Act, the year ending October 3, 1913. In that year the equivalent of an ad valorem rate of duty collected on imports of all grades of hosiery was 69.15 per cent, as shown in Table 82. It will be observed that in both Tables 82 and 83 the imports increased during the quarters ended March 31, 1913, March 31, 1914, and March 31, 1915, over the previous quarters, decreased during the Quarters ended June 30, 1913, June 30, 1914, and June 30, 1915, and decreased m the last (juarters ended September 30, 1913 and 1914. The totals for the imports of cotton hosiery of aU grades during the year ended October 3, 1913, and the year ended September 30, 1914, and for each quarter during the two years are shown in Table 84. Table 84.— Quantity and Value op Cotton Hosiery Imported for Consump- tion AND Duty Paid Thereon from Oct. 1, 1912, to Oct. 3, 1913, Inclusive and from Oct. 4, 1913, to Sept. 30, 1914, Inclusive Quarters. Oct. 1, 1912, to Dec. 31, 1912 Oct. 4, 1913, to Dec. 31, 1913 Jan. 1, 1913, to Mar. 31, 1913 Jan. 1, 1914, to Mar. 31, 1914 Apr. 1, 1913, to June 30, 1913 Apr. 1, 1914, to June 30, 1914 July 1, 1913, to Oct. 3, 1913 July 1, 1914, to Sept. 30, 1914. Total, Oct. 1, 1912, to Oct. 3, 1913.. Total, Oct. 4, 1913, to Sept. 30, 1914 Imports for consumption. Quantity. Dozen pairs. 356,348 326,051 697, 701 933,433 491,912 680,998 253,890 347,031 1,799,8.51 2,287,513 Value. 1480,092 575,803 820,946 1,187,700 576,757 797,799 388,377 511,389 2,266,172 3,072,691 Duty col- lected. $344,094 265,573 575,713 532,247 382,564 344,585 264,707 236,812 1,567,078 1,379,217 Equiva- lent or av- erage ad valorem rate of duty. Per cent. 71.67 46.12 70.13 44.81 66.33 43.19 68.16 46.31 69. 15 44.89 The importations continued to show a decline during the quarter from October 1 to December 31, 1914. The importations of cotton hosiery for consumption during that quarter were: Dozen pairs 196,046; value, $279,505; duty collected, $128,986. It will be ob- served that the importations steadily decreased by quarters during the calendar year 1914 and that during the last quarter of that year they were less than one-fourth of what they were during the first quarter of that year. These statistics of imports show that if the sales of American ho- siery manufacturers were less in 1914 than in previous years, it was not on account of a flood of foreign importations, the importations being an extremely small per cent of the American product. More- over, the statistics of imports by countries show that nearly all the imports of hosiery are from Germany. The imports from that coun- 230 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. try have practically ceased smce tho war began. An article in the Dry Goods Economist of January 16, 1915, discussing the decrease of hosiery importations during the latter part of 1914, says: r.Jl^^ ^OA ^^^l ^^^^^^ *^ increase while the war continues. In any event , with cotton costing 20 cents a pound m Germany competition with domestic liroduction would be out ot the question. Aside from this, and regardless of war, importations of honierv normally, equal but a small percentage of the output of the Unitcnl States. Further- more, the remarkable improvements constantly being made in domestic goods r*mder the menace of foreign competition a steadily decreasing one. As far as statistics are available, the data regarding the importa- tion of woolen and silk hosiery and other knitted articles of wearin<^ apparel imported for consumption durmg the fiscal years 1911 to 1914, inclusive, are shown in Table 85. Table 85.— Value op Woolen and Silk Knit Wearing Apparel Importeo for Consumption During the Fiscal Years Ended June 30, 1911-1914. Knitted articles. 1911 1912 1913 1914 Woolen (except shawls) $367,708 291,811 $391,«»2;< 201,741 $487, 285 250, 794 o $4 15, 775 b IKl, 135 Silk !!!!!.'!!!!! 191- m} anJtTie ist ht'lf^n? h«^f^/^- ^' ^%\\'}'il'^^ •^'^- ^^^^' ^^^^''^^^- ^"""^ ^he fincal years 1911, were the value of fh^m^nitat i m ^ Sfl^^tW ^^}^i the importations of woolen art ides shown i£ this table OT to part of wo^l o^^ ^^^''l^^ of;year nig apparel, except shawls, conij)osed in whole fng^helit hluof tZ f,lS there was a duty of 44 ce.i is a pound plus 60 per cmi ad valorem. D ur- KrtSns of kn nprfLrtl^?ff if ^^ theimports of woolen articles shown in this table weiethe value of the KomnXnt mai^^^^ apparel except hosiery, gloves, and shawls, of which wool was ion ^L imV+r ' 1913, $50,5as; Oct. 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914, $130,547. During the fiscal years 1911 1912 kn?t'tP^«4? it"'? importations of silk articles shown in tl.is table were the vSue (^the iiStatK.ns of dnJvn^tw^^\°^''^^7'^ ^P?-^'"^^' °f ^^*^'h s^ ^^as the < omponent material of hief vZ? Th new As shown by the precedmg table, the importations of woolen knit articles ot wearing apparel, except shawls, increased from the fiscal year 1911 to 1913. The importations of such articles during the hscal year 1914 appear to be less than in the fiscal year 1913, but the amount for 1914 does not include imi)ortations of hosiery or doves lor the last six months of the latter fisctd year. Table 86.— Value op Hosiery, op Which Wool Was the Component Material ENDE^TuJ^Sof'lQlT'"''''^'' ^""^ Consumption During thk Six Quarters Quarter ended — Mar. 31, 1914: Value of imports. Duty collected . . . June 30, 1914: Value of imports. Duty collected... Sept. 30, 1914: Value of imports. Duty collected . . . Dec. 31, 1914: Value of imports . Duty collected... Mar. 31, 1915: Value of imports . Duty collected... June 30, 1915: Value of imports Duty collected . . Selvaged, fashioned or seamless, valued, per dozen pairs, at — $1.20 or less, 30 per cent. $2,542 763 2,153 646 2,191 657 2,272 682 426 128 More than $1.20, 40 per cent. $28,543 11,417 29,581 11,832 81,272 32,509 51,577 20,631 14,018 5,607 16,571 6,628 Not spe- cially pni- vlded for (cut-out hose), 2(1 per cent $4,H1 96 10 2 381 76 15:{ 31 Hi Total. $;il,566 12,276 31,744 12,480 K<,844 33,242 54,002 21,344 U,460 6,738 16,571 «i,628 FOREIOX TRADE. 281 Durhig the fiscal years 1911 to 1913 and during llie first half of the fiscal year 1914 the tariff rates on hosiery composed in whole or in part of wool was 44 cents a pound plus 60 per cent ad valorem. In Table 86 are shown the importations of hosiery of which wool was the component material of chief value during the first five quar- ters after the new tariff on woolen goods went into effect, beginning January 1, 1914, the duty collected, and the rates of duty on such hosiery. The five quarters mcluded in the above table do not cover any complete fiscal year but, as shown by the table, the importations of woolen hosiery during the last six months of the fiscal year 1914 (the six months ended June 30, 1914), amounted to $63,310. This period was after the reduction m duty on woolen goods went into effect, but before the beginning of the war in Europe. Adding the importations for these two quarters, and multiplying the total by 2, to roughly approxunate the importations for a year, the result would be $126,620. This amount ($126,620) is only a very small percentage of the total amount of the production in the United States of hosiery made m whole or m part of wool. As shown by the Census of Man- ufactures, the value of the production in the United States in 1909 of hosiery made of merino or mixed materials amounted to $4,766,195; and of hosiery made of woolen or worsted amounted to $4,445,227, a total of $9,211,422. Of this total, $126,620 (the approximate amount of importations of knit wearing apparel, other than hosiery, gloves, and shawls, made ui whole or m part of wool, on the basis of a full year under the new tariff, but imder conditions as they were before the European war began) is 1.38 per cent. As shown by Table 85, the importations of knitted silk articles of wearing apparel during the fiscal year 1914 amounted to $181,135. This included all classes of knit goods of which silk was the com- Eonent material of chief value, and not hosiery only. As shown y the Census of Manufactures, the value of the products in the United States m 1909 of silk hosiery was $3,600,416. Notwithstanding the fact that during nearly nine months of the fiscal year 1914 (from Oct. 4, 1913, to June 30, 1914) the rate of duty on knit articles of wearing apparel of which silk was the com- ponent niaterial of chief value the tariff rate was 50 per cent ad valorem, instead of 60 per cent, as it was before the importations of such goods, as shown by Table 85, were considerably less in the fiscal year 1914 than they were m any of the three previous fiscal years. Hosiery that retails at over 50 cents a pair is largely knit of silk, or is what is called ''boot silk"; that is, the upper part of the foot, the ankle, and lower part of the leg are knit of silk and the balance of cotton. In the last few years there has been a remarkable increase in the use of silk or boot-silk hosiery in the United States, and this tendency of fashion has been fortunate for domestic manufacturers of full-fashioned hosiery. Under the Dingley Act and the Payne- Aldrich Act the tariff rate on knit goods of which silk was the component material of chief value was 60 per cent ad valorem. Under the Underwood-vSimmons Act the rate is 50 per cent, but it is still high enough effectually to exclude nearly all silk or boot- I 232 f Xnnr THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. bilk hosierv, for the reason that the 50 per cent rate applies to the value of the silk, which is the greater part of the whole cost, as wc^ll as to the labor aiid overhead exptnise. Moreover, practically all sUk hosiery manufactured abroad is made full fashioned, and the labor cost on full-fashioned hosiery is higher than on seamless hosiery whether m America or Europe. in^^^-^^IJf''^ "^^^^ ""^ artificial silk the duty under the tariff act of 1913 IS 60 per cent, and there is Httle foreign competition on such goods, though the amount of importations is not separately stated A large hosiery buyer who recently made an investigation of the ^r^ni'"'''^'^'^':?.'^ '^ ^^'.^ *^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ foUo^ving to say on January 29, 1915, regarding hosiery: ^ j j I am of the opinion that men's cottcm hosiery (for which there is but little demand and which sells for 25 cents and 35 centsa pair) could have been bought in Eur me a^ a lower price than thoae which prevailed at home before the war. Outside of this Item, the home manufacturers have full control of the American market on both men's and women's hosiery. The reason for this is that within the past few years a great dc^mand has sprung up K it TVif- ^^V'^'^y hosiery and American manufacturers have full («ontm of the bulk of this class of merchandise, which consists of fiber silk hosierv, me? erized hosiery, silk ankle hosiery, and all-silk hosiery. In this group, with one exception ^n^.^tT'^-if l^^T^"^^ ^^^ that only to a small degree, can foreign manufaetS compete with the American manufacturers. tui^ra American manufacturers who have not been progressive enough to chan.^e the character of their product to meet the large demand which exists fSr merchandise in the above-mentioned group are the ones who are running behind. The progressive manufacturers who are making merchandise of the character mentioned afcovlquote business as normal and in some cases ahead. a"wv« quoie I might add for y9ur information that the d.^mand for fiber silk hosiery which is an imitation of silk, is sweeping the country fc.r men's at 25 cents, and a lame demand IS developing for women 's and children's at 25 ,>ents, 35 cents, and 50 cente perm^r On this class of merchandise the American manufacturers have absolute controP I earned frona good authority that one manufacturer, who is the largest hosiery manu- facturer m the world producing $7,000,000 worth of merchandise a year, is wS. on full time and that he exported $500,000 worth of hosiery to England and Glrmanv fiberTilk ho^rrj""'- ^" '" '^'" '^' ^'^^''' P'^*^^^"^ ^^ '^' ^^"^^^ oUhe^ y American manufacturers of seamless cotton and low-priced silk hosiery. Even in Germany, wliich country is preeminent in the production of hosiery, American consuls reported before the war began that the trade in seamless silk hosiery from the United States was assuming such proportions as to cause consider abhi alarm among manufacturers in that country. On account of the greater proportion of labor cost in the manu- facture of full-fashioned hosiery little business is donc^ in exporting goods of that kind. In Australia and South Africa there is a demand for fleece-lintd underwear from America. Most of the exportations of hosiery and knit underwear are made tlirough foreign selling agents or exporting houses. In Table 88 imports and exports of cotton hosiery and other knit goods for the fiscal years 1909 to 1914, inclusive, are shown in parallel colunms, together with a column showing the per cent the exports were of the imports in each year. Table 88. — Value op Cotton Hosiery and Other Knit Goods Imported for Consumption, and Domestic Exports, Durinc^ the Fiscal Years Eni>ed Jume 30, 1909-1915. Fiscal year ended June 30— 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 Imports. Hosiery. $6,390,923 5, 825, 099 3,824,970 2, 912, 400 2, 553, 914 2, 949. 678 1,705,346 Knit goods other than hosiery anil gloves. $459,610 .'>60,222 433,942 361, 8.57 304, 703 ;}41, 973 278,182 Total (except gloves). $6,850,533 6,385,321 4,258,912 3,274,259 2,858,617 3,291,651 1,983,528 Pomestio eN ports — Hosiery and other knit goods. •1.016,325 1.175,147 1,646,219 1,858,836 l.>,613,806 2 546,822 13.080,445 Per cent exports were of imports. 14.84 18.40 38.65 56.77 91.44 77. 37 659,45 The above table shows that during the five fiscal years from 1909 to 1914 the imports of cotton hosiery and other knit goods decn^ased by more than half, while during the same fx^riod the exports more than doubled. In the fiscal year 1909 the amount of exports was 14.S4 percentof the amountof imports; in 1914 it was 77.37 ])er cent. The domestic exports in 1915, largely no doubt as a result of the war, amounted to six and one-half times the value of the imports. * IMPOETS AND EXPOETS OF HOSIEEY MACHINEEY. Machinery for knitting seamless hosiery, being peculiarly of Amer- ican invention, received its complete development in this country, and all such machinery in use in this country is of domestic manufacture. Though there are two very good American loopers, the great predominance of the looping machinery for seamless as well as full- FOREIGN TRADE. 235 fashioned hosiery is of foreign make, usually German. The Ger- man two-tliread looper was in the field five years before the first American machine of the same kind. The American manufacturer originally purchased the German looper, and to-day has enough loop- ers, or, if he needs a new one, does not care to install a few American machines alongside the numerous foreign ones. The makers of the foreign looper claim better material and workmanship, a better seam m strength and appearance, and a more reliable trimming attach- ment, with easier repairing. Though most American manufacturers prefer the foreign looper, the preference arises from not having prop- erly tried out the American machine. American manufacturers who have used the domestic machine are well satisfied with it, though they do admit that there is some sUght machine trouble occasionally. To emphasize this satisfaction with the American looper one American full-fashioned hosiery manufacturer uses nothing but domestic loopers. SUPERIORITY OF AMERICAN MACHINERY. Full-fashioned hosiery, while manufactured to but a small extent m this country as compared with seamless hosiery, is growing very rapidly, especially in silk. FuU-fashioned hosiery is knit usually on the German Cotton type machine. The Ami^rican manufacturer pre- fers the German machine for the same reason that he prefers the German looper; that is, because it was long in the field before the American machme appeared. The American machme is not used for lack of a proper trial. Originally the manufacturer purchased the foreign machine, as it was the only one. His help, which had to be skiUed, was foreicrn. Foreign workers naturally preferred the machme they had been taught on, and could see no merit to the domestic machine. The labor required being skilled and it being difficult to learn the trade, the help remains largely foreign, with its prejudice in favor of the foreign ma- chine. Ajnerican manufacturers who have given the domestic ma- chine a trial and have found it satisfactory do not care to install a few American machines alongside their numerous foreign machines, thus breaking up the smooth working system of the factory. Another reason for the preference of American manufacturers for the foreign machine is that the foreign machine is generally purchased of a jobber who allows long selling terms, in one case the tune for payment being five years. The domestic machines must generally be paid for in about ono year. The American machines, however, are sold at a less price than the foreign machines, as is shown by Table 64, page 182. As a matter of fact, when tried out the American machine is found to be far superior, though one is unable as yet to say how it will stand up under wear. This is the opinion of a well-versed manufacturer who has used the foreign machine for 18 years and who recently has installed a few American machines. He has run the domestic machine alongside the foreign one, enabling hun to watch closely the comparative merits of both machines. The foreign-machine manu- facturer claims 25 per cent greater production, finer points, such as an addition to insure perfect loops, producing a better fabric; a check bar provided with springs to steady the motion of certain parts of the machine: and also better devices Jor narrowing and for producing a better selvage. t 236 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. The Aiiicricaii manufacturer who lias tried out both machines claims that the great superiority of the domestic over the fonugn machine is in that it is simpler to handle?. It is easier to teach onci to knit on It, which is a great advantage, since the suppl\r of skilled help for the foreign machines is very limited. To illustrate how easy it is to teach one to knit on the American machine, the b(^fore-mentioned manufacturer brouglit in a boy who had two weeks previously been working as an office boy and who in that short period liad been taucrht to knit on a domestic machine. This boy after two weeks w as gettmg out the full production of first-quality hosiery. Another great advantage claimed for the American full-fashioning machine is that it produces hosiery cheaper, because as the cost of knitting is the principal part of the labor cost in full-fashioned hosiery, this machine, requiring, as it does, comparatively little skill the pay for knitting is much less. ' Another very important advantage claimed by this manufacturer for the domestic machine is greater production, though the foreign maker claims the same thmg. In actual work this manufacturer found that the most efficient knitter on the best foreign-manufactured machine could produce from 28 to 30 dozen a day, and in the same time the former errand boy was tumin|r out from 33 to 34 dozen of the same grade of goods on the domestic machine. Other advantages claimed for the American machine are that it will get out its full production after being in use a few weeks, whereas the foreign machine often requires about six months to accompUsh the same result, and that a domestic 42-gauge machuu^ will turn out a stocking equal to any 45-gauge stocking made on a foreign machine. EXPORTATION OF AMERICAN MACHINES. The onlv hosiery machinery that is exported from the United States is that used in making a seamless product, and a very few loopers. Most of these knitting machines go to England, Germany and Russia, and a few to Spain, Chma, and Japan. Tlie few loopers that are exported go principally to China and Japan, and a very few to Argentina and Australia. Until very recently American knittmg-machine manufacturers have made but little effort to develop foreign trade. What they export is sold not to manufacturers of hosiery direct but to jol)bera. There are several reasons for this httle interest taken in exporting American hosiery machines : First, our foreign banking connections outside of a few countries in Europe are poor, and the American machine manufacturer is unwill- ing to extend very liberal credit abroad. He wishes to liold the banker or agent responsible for a bill, not caring to extend credit to the manu- facturer who has purchased the machines. Second, European machinery manufacturers or jobbers have stud- ied foreign conditions and languages, with the result that the foreign hosiery manufacturers have confidence in them. Third, the American manufacturer can sell the machinery neces- sary for only a part of hosiery making. The Englisli jobber has a complete line necessary to manufactun^ an entire stocking. If, for example, a South American would hke to purchase machinery neces- sary to produce a certain kind of hosiery, the English jobber can FOREIGN TRADE. 237 supply him with the entire equipment. The American manufacturer has specialized. He makes one or two different macliines. He has considered this foreign plan of carrying a complete line of machinery, but has thought unfavorably of it, because m selecting some other manufacturer's machine to go along with his the manufacturers of machines not selected would in their tuni act unfavorably toward his machine. Also, the EngUsh salesman has for years made a scientific study of the industry and can sell any kind of machine needed, whereas the American salesman, working generally for a manufac- turer who makes but one or two different kuids of machines, can only sell his own specialized product. In recent years exports of hosiery-knitting machinery from the United States have increased to a great extent, due to the bitter rivalry between the two leading foreign machine-manufacturing countries. Hosiery manufacturers m neither of these countries w3l purchase machines made in the other country if it can get an article nearly as good from sonieone else. This has greatly stimulated the American export trade in hosiery machinery. Table 89 shows the number of seamless knitting machines sold annually in the United States and abroad by the three largest manu- facturers of seamless knitting machinery in this country. Table 89. — Seamless Knitting Machines Sold by the Three Largest Manu- facturers OP Seamless Knitting Machinery in the LFnited States, 1911-1913. Years. 1911 1912 1913 Machines sold in United States. 4,515 5,369 5,979 Machines exported to foreign coun- tries. 849 1,235 1,618 SUGGESTIONS FOB INCREASING FOREIGN TRADE. American manufacturers of hosiery have made comparatively little effort to place their products in foreign markets, and with few exceptions such business as they have obtained has largely come through export houses. It is claimed by some of the manufacturers that export houses frequently do not give active attention to the selling of American clothuig abroad, because other Imes, such as automobiles, hardware, and machinery, offer better returns and do not require the same amount of effort or technical knowledge which is necessary in attempting to mtroduce Amtirican clothing. There is a rather widespread ignorance among the manufacturers as regards the requirements of the foreign markets and the proper methods to be adopted in building up an export trade. An active campaign of mquiry and study must be inaugurated before definite results can be expected. The most effective plan would be for the manufacturers, individually or collectively, to send their own rep- resentatives into the foreign fields to study the conditions and the tastes of the people in the matter of hosiery, show their samples, and establish their own agents in the prmcipal countries who could look after the business when their representatives had returned from the field. si 238 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. Manufacturers who are miable or uiiwilUng to adopt this policy should avail themselves of the facHitics which the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce at Washington and the Amr^rican Consular b^vice provide for assistmg them in securmg export trade. In the Irade opportunities^' nublished m the Commerce Reports, issued daily by the Bureau, there are freqiK^ntly printed inquiries from abroad for the names of American manufacturers and export South Amer ca American seamless hosiery sells everywhere. ^luencd. American seamless silk hosiery especially has been described asa -'worid beater " and now when Chemnitz the German hosiery mauufacturing center, is paralyzed he English mills and those of Italy and Spain can noi begin to supply t) e demands made on theni, and so the United States is taking orders for hosiery of a^ k ids tW shipm^^^^^ A^^ffr^r- \^r^ ^^T r^«'«>r American h.3siery for the Gold Coa^t of^ wJst Africa, where white people do not form more than one-tenth of 1 per ccmt of the poi»u- lation; and It It sells there, where will it not sell? * * * ^ tu« popu The most satisfactory way for a manufacturer of hosiery or underwear to get export trade effectively, it seems to me, is for him to work through a large commLTon ho^.se handling knit goods in New York or through a manufacturer's ^eat in New Yo k A hosiery or underwear mil is oftentimes located m a small town, ai.d it is impossible Zlll '^^^"^^^Vr^; t^.get in touch with the New York export housc^s, the forwafding houses who handle foreign shipments, the banks doing foreign exchange etc foreign buyers coming into this country transact their business in New York and rilnF.?; "^^'^ employ a man especially for this export business are better fitted to handle these buyers and all other export matters, not only on account of their being FOREIGN TRADE. 239 bi^^^^}'^ *^® ^''P?''* ^^'^^^'' ?^ ^^® country, but because they generally have a man schooled m export business who is widely traveled, knows several languLes and who faTt^ r ^b^^^ ^''^ P'f 1 smoothnes^ the business that would s^STthe manu' lacturer to be very complicated. A monograph on ''South America as an export field/' « is intended to give manufacturers mformation as to the character, extent resources -and trade of South American countries which will enable them to determme m part the most favorable markets for their goods. This monograph, which was published in 1914, contains 216 pages and may be procured from the superintendent of docu- ments. Government Prmting Office, Washington, D. C, at 25 cents per copy. o 7 , t« The Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce expects to issue shortly a series of reports setting forth the customs duties on tex- tile^ m the various South American countries. The pubhcations will cover everythmg comprehended m the textUe industries from the raw fiber, thread, vam, and fabric, through all the ramifica- tions of made-up articles--readv-made clothing for men, women, and children; knit goods of all kinds; em])roidlry, trimmmgs, and other fancy articles; carpets and rugs; and other manuftctured ^Irts ^ materials constitute the whole or important The prigmal customs tariffs of all foreign countries are on file in the division of foreign tariffs of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, which, m response to specific inqukies, will furnish mfor- mation concerning the duties on any particular product in any country in which the inquu-er may be mmiediately mterested. Ihe daily Commerce Reports of the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, which were formerly known a^ the Daify Consular and Irade Reports contam from tune to time reports of trade oppor- tunities and other information of value concerning this mdustrv m foreign countries. FoUowmg are extracts from these reports relat- ihlseVaily re^^^^^^^^ ^^'^ ^^'^' ^^^'""'^ ^ ^^^^^<^ ^^^ ^ ARGENTINA. DOMESTIC PRODUCTION AND IMPORTS OF HOSIERY. [Consul William Dawson, jr., Rosario, Commerce Reports, Jan. 11, 1915.] ^ u^T^f by the high tariff Argentina had, ax^cording t« the industrial census Crenorf published in 1910), 47 fax^^tories making knitted goods. RetunirZ not sW h^^ separately. Of these factories, 43 were^n the city of Buenos Akes which Lthe^nK important textile center. The total capital of the 47 factories was $1 3^000 ani $154^^TwlhtfiV;Sn" ^"ir^ ^' ^\000,m. Raw material wis ^'aTed at *i,&4U (XX) of Which $630,000 worth was produced in the country and $910 000 wortli impoited from abroad. The factories haS 2,390 employees aiid^eveloped '?9^ hoi^ power, of which 542 was steam and 166 electric viev«iopea /y» norse- f^tlier idea of the importance of the home industry may be obtained from a nai^ recently addressed to the Government by the ''Union IndLtrialSS^^ at t^^f request of Argentine manufacturers of kmW ^oods. The note pointe out^he de^l bihty of inviting manufax^turers of cotton textiles in the United States to Pntpr^^ commercial relations with Argentine manufacturers of knSed g^^ to'^^^^^^^^ textUe business in this market, and recommends that Argentine loZlar ^presSTt^ tives ascertain whether American cotton mills would dy^ black and colStSd^ combined. It is stated that Argentina uses 8,800,000 pounds of thSe S annuaUv in addition to about 7,700,000 pounds of crude cotton thread ^ annuaUy. a Special Agents Series No. 81. 240 THE HOSIERY INDUSTEY. Iri jH^i^w'"^ ??"■?' ^^^°^ '^'"" "^"'"^^ customs statistics, show imports of various S h nl,^?,^ *° Ai^entina in recent years, with the principal .:ouitries of o kC L?n'rc';Sirtrt?tKr^n!iaxr^^^ Articles and j'ears. COTTON HOSIERY. Average for 5 years, 1907-1911 1912 1913 France. Ger- many. Spain. LINEN HOSIERY. Average for 5 years, 1907-1911 1912 1913 WOOLEN HOSIERY. Average for 5 years, 1907-1911 1912 1913 Pounds. 267,026 221,523 Pou nds. 950, 483 1,094,421 XIniteil Kingdom. Poundfi. 41,663 34,904 4S. 138 55,546 SILK HOSIERY. Average for 5 years, 1907-1911 1912 1913 ■ OTHER HOSIERY. Average for 5 years, 1907-1911 1912 1913 TOTAL, Average for 5 vears, 1907-1911 1912 1913 19, 156 15,142 27.168 59. 430 18,263 2f), 475 6,027 7,998 Pounds. 21,458 21,8-'>4 Other countries, Total. 4,270 4,804 1.063 2,000 8,278 8,794 343. 661 303,005 443 4,685 3,971 5,165 1,000,628 1,190,176 16,345 25,086 Pounds. 21,301 25,569 780 1,561 529 1,594 275 1,572 983 2,236 48,673 45, 138 2,374 3,547 44, 722 56,81)3 54 & 1,576 110 1,592 22,774 31, 892 a 1 pound from United States. Pounds. 1,;U)1,931 1,398,271 1,«07,915 S6,683 129.339 1S5.332 M,292 68,297 61,621 1,835 9,833 13,481 15,716 21,334 35,819 l,4»iO,458 1,627,074 2,204,168 b 1,215 pounds from United States. Figures sliowing imports by countries for 1913 are not available Sifg^tTsThltlVl^lI^^^^^^^^ ---- ^-^-^ ^-.y into Argentina Kinds of hosiery. Cotton., Linen... Woolen. Silk Jan. 1- June 30, 1913. Pounds. 757,477 53,996 54,397 7, 463 Jan. 1- June30, 1914. Pounds. 847,477 42,296 49,2»)7 4,683 Kinds of hosiery. Other. Jan. 1- June 30, 1913. PoundK. 11,;«9 '^ot^l 884,092 Jan 1- Junp30, 1914. Poundf. 16.559 960, 282 tremely popular here a few years ago, and they are .till seen toallrge o St LnpfT. 1 W among lower classes. At the present time very light soValled ^mu«lfn » J^^lf^ almost transpaxent, axe in sty^e. Here, a« elJewferVlo; pted b^^^ FOREIGN TBADE. 241 best market. With respect to imported hosiery, the very high specific duty t^nds to favor better grades, particularly tosiery of light weight"^ mile mos of the hoW 80ld here has the seam down the ba<.k, seamle^ hosiSy is popular aTd would r^eive the preference in many quarters, other things being equaf i^JlT, ^"^ ^"^'^^ ^\ no8'^no state that the Argentine industry is practically coii- nn w A?"^?? ^'^i^^f ^ ^^^^ ^^ ^«^*«^ ^^<1 ^o«le^^ liosiery. As duties are bLel ^nSS"*' It IS hard for foreign manufa<^turers to compete in pVice in heavy Sad^ «nn,T r '"' ""^ '^T^'^i' ^^^ I)niicipal season here, flie sale of straw hate, low shoes summer hosiery, etc., begins m September. The wholesaler must receive his summer d\se for ?itV[/"- "' '^" '^'''^'^' "i ^"^*- T^^ i°^P<^rting jobber orders merhT dise for the following summer m August or September. The retailer who imports 1^ ^l'^"^^5'r^"'-^^'^T^^" ^^ J^^^^^y' accorcfing to the promptness of the fSir in making deliveries. As a matter of ia^t, department stores atllosario place orS throughout the year. Some of the leading stores send buyers to Europe.^ connrti"^ f ""^^^ ^^^^\^ ^?'"^^^/ ^^ ?^^ preference of indmdual importers. As far as general statements can be ba^ed on information obtained from the few Rosario im^ porters, the trade-marks of both manufacturer and importer are prefei?^ th^?orm^r hemg a guaranty to the importer and the latter to the^ customer^ DepSmen^^^^^ generally use their own trade-mark in connection with that of mlniSurerTnd Cfhi^tnL^k."^'""^^ "" ''" ^P' "^ '''^ ^'''''' mercCSsf if" rticles The better firms at Rosario prefer to pay cash in order to get discounts Recomized terms on time payments are 90 days from arrival of merchandise. DepartS^toiS that do not seek credit much prefer to deal directly with factory Xme local im porters have had unfortunate experiences with export agencies thS provS u^Srup^. rSnri^^i'''^ ^'^.^''' '^^^^ goods inferior in qual/ty or not like the sTmples. XrThS- S^ !d ^''•T^ ^^1?^^^' ^"^^^ "^^^^ ^^^^^bl^' '""^y ^«t be able to continue to suppTv the same articles. Before assuming the risk and trouble of introducing a new iSe the importer must be sure that, if marketable, it can be supplied regularly AUSTBIA-HUNGABY. BOHEMIA EXTENSIVE USER OF SILK HOSIERY. [Consul Charles L. Hoover, Prague, Commerce Reports, Aug. 6, 1915.] ^i.^^ \^^r^^et for articles of luxury, Prague furnishes a field perhaps about equal te Unitpll St^tTf ^/"^ ^'^ • ^ ? '^t ^""^''^^^ '''y «^ ^^'^ «^ «0 000 inhabitant he United States, but as it is also the center and logical distributing point of the rich Kingdom of Bohemia, the impprUnce te American exporters of eslablishing conn^- tions here IS much greater than it would be if the market were limited to the c itv TteeTf The great health resorts, Carisbad, Marienbad, and Fmnzensbad,Thich are vS by thousands of wealthy persons each summer in ordinary yeaii are only a short jb^tance from Prague ani are tributary te it commercially. ThSa ver? laLe retS^ the^poorlaliW of ^^^^^^ Z ^^^^?l^^' ^^P^t"^ hosie^/^ ^^t the trade^suffS.^ the poor quahty of the goods sold. A pair of men's socks costing $2 rarely survives and puu'our- " ^'''''^ ^ ^'^'''^^ ^^ '^^* '^^ longitudLl thr^s^^'k The use of silk underwear is confined to the very rich in ordinary times but it has been discovered that the vermin which always appear when largebo™^ of men 1^ assembled under conditions where cleanliness'is i^possiblf^ll not live fn silk imder clothing As it has been ascertained that these vervain carry the gern^ of the dreaded spotted fever, the sale of silk underclc^hing ha^ greatly incTeased recTnUy ^^ ^ nJ^.li^ most m demand m men's underwear are "champagne" or light pongee W,if?r ^"^f^ ^ ?^'^' probably from Macao, from which pongee was oriSw f^roff^'i T""^"'^ f^^i^f • ^^l^ ^"^1 ^^^^^^ ^''^ knee drawers are in Sand Coat shirte are not well known, but are well liked by those who have used them" Regular undershirte are similar in form to those used in America »Ja^1 ^omen's silk underveste are used, and there is no demand for union suite It is said that women's under^rmente consist of a muslin or silk chemise. The i^per pa^t ni^^ ^*j5f 'f J'T* "^^^^^ \y k^'"^^ ^"^^^ J^^k^ts worn under the cloth coat.Tb Wur coate, while the fewer limbs are clothed next te the skin in a garment called '^Reform Hosen,' which reaches from the waistline to the knees, and is held in place by ela^t^ bands at these pomte. This combination of underclothing is said te be mdte goS throughout Europe so that exporters, in arranging for this market! wil?not be pj^ paring anything which would not be salable elsew'here. ^ 9963°— 15 16 242 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. FOREIGN TRADE. 243 H Men's silk socks are sold almost exclusively in solid colors, usually black with deco- rative clocks. Women's stockings are sold in all colors to match cUffereiit costumes. All silk knit goods sold in this market have been imported in the past from Grenoble, France; Chenmitz, Germany; and Zurich, Switzerland. Terms of payment vary greatly, but as a general rule a discount of 5 per cont is allowed for cash within 30 days, with six to nine months net. Under the present moratorium the custom is to pay cash on delivery of the goods, and merchants report that they are so well pleased with the arrrangeinent that it is probable the old system of long credits will never again become general . BRAZIL OPPORTUNITIES FOR AMERICANT MANUFACTURERS, [Vice Consul General Joseph J. Slechta, Rio de Janeiro, Daily Consular and Trade Reports, July 24, 1911,] In Spite of the protection afforded domestic industries engaged in the manufacture of knit goods in Brazil, the field offers opportunities for the export of American-made goods which indifference, on the part of American manufacturers has made of little account. Statistics of foreign trade as at present compiled do not specify separately the dif- ferent classes of knit goods, with the exception o I' hosiery. The tot al imports of hosiery into Brazil amounted in 1909 to about $124,000 — nearly 25 per c^i'y. Japan commenced to develop an increased trade in such ^>ods Up to that time Great Britain had a large portion of the trade in th(^ higher class L'oods tln-oiigh Hong W, but the chief portion of the trade direct was from Gennanv and Japan. In 1910 Germany had about 30 per cent, Japan about 18.5 i)er cent, Hongkong about 42 per cent, and the rest scattering, the Hongkong trade representing GermaS goods for the cheaper gravies and Enghsh goods f( .r the higher grades. TherTwere few smpments of importance of native-made goods In 1911 Germany had about 25 per cent, Hongkong about 36 per cent, and Japan al)out 28 per cent of the trade, with the rest scattering. In 1912 Germany had about 29 per cent, Japan about 30 per cent and Hongkong about 35 per cent. i- . r ou p«i cem. On the whole trade, therefore, Japan has steadily gained at the expense of its two chief competitors As a matter of fact the trade has increased in very much larger proportion than that indicated in their respecti^'e shares for 1912, for not only were the imports m 1913 much larger, but the amount of these goods manufacturedf in China Itself was very much greater. While in the earlier years the proportion of the trade in cheap goods handled through Hongkong was almost entirely German, it has been largely of Hongkong or south China make in the past two vears What tlie result of the war in Europe is to be on this trade 'is somewhat problematical. On the face of things the large share of the trade held by Germany ought to be available tor outside competition, and this is unquestionably the case with Idgher grade goods FOREIGN TRADE. 245 from the Umted States. For the great mass of cheap goods manufactured for use ..i the ordinary Chinese buyer, however, it is doubtful if United States mills can compete or will care to compete successfully with the local Hongkong and south ( 'hina factories tor the south China trade, and with the Japanese factories for the trade in the Yan<'tz<' Valley. The labor element in manufaetiu-e seems to be the cliief factor in favor of the nati\ e- made goods, for most of the native factories use American knitting yarn The crouds manufactured by the local factories are coarse and lack finish and other desirable quali- ties biit they are serviceable and cheap, and, being the first goods ever used by man v ot the Clunese, they are free from invidious comparisons. The larger ijortion of the output is from small home factories where the cost of labor is at a minimum. Japanese goods competing with these native products have the advantage of low freic'ht rate^ convenience to the markets for studying demand as to colors and styles, and suiieri(jr machinery of distribution among the native dealers. The United States has commenced to sell some considerable amounts of hosiery in the larger Chinese ports m the past two years, but the goods are almost exclusiveh- high grade, including silk and cotton and silk hose. The American ^^cK^ds are iii good demand with high-class buyers. Cheaper grades of American goods would sell in the market on their merits. German goods usually have been serviceable inclined to be large for their respective sizes, lose their shape easily, and "pull'' easily; that is, give unduly in one part of the garment and tighten in others The native^made goods have similar faults, but come very cheap. Ordinary grades of recogmzed local brands or chops sell around $2 local currency or 86 cents gold per ?i?^^\-. Z^""""^ usually in whites, blacks (of poor dye), light blues, and browns; the whites, blues, and blacks being much more popular. They are usually sold by the factones here direct to the Chinese middlemen, while the foreign goods such as the German, are usually sold through the import commission houses Japanese goods also are sold tlu-ough Japanese firms directly to the Chinese middlemen. PROMISING OUTLOOK FOR AMERICAN MANUFACTURERS. [Vice Consul General C. P. McKiernan, Shanghai, Dec. 14, 1914, Commerce Reports, Feb. IS, 1915.] Large quantities of socks are imported into China; the cheaper qualities having come from Gemiany and the bPtter quaUties, especially -macco socks," chiefly from H^ngland. \\ithin the last few years Japan has entered the field and is com'petinc most successfully. Natives also have engaged in the manuf actiu-e of socks, and foreign machinery for this purpose has found a good market in China. It is believed that there is a promising outlook at present for American manufacturers to compete along these lines though as the native industry develops and the Japanese trade increasS there will be a gradually dimimshing demand for other goods The net imports of hosiery into China from foreign countries increased from 707,051 dozens in 1909 to 1,345,959 dozens in 1912, and to 2, 109,301 dozens in 1913. The follow- ing were the imports from the chief sources of supply for the period 1909-1912 (the latest year for which statistics by countries are available)- Whence Imported. Hongkong Great Britain Germany Austria-Hungary Japan 1909 Dozen. 269,952 14,065 203,237 33,693 140,920 1910 Dozen. 361,912 9,799 177,539 42,042 184,939 1911 Dozen. 255,452 17,596 126,927 28,590 300,323 1912 Dozen. 371,665 31,381 173,007 71,061 691,003 Leaving out of consideration the amounts imported from Hongkong, which represent mostly imports from Europe transshipped at that port, it will be seen that GeXaTy^s imports during the four years decreased about 15 per cent; that those from Great Britamand Austna-Hungaiy more than doubled; and tliat those from Japan i^crS almost fivefold. The imports from the United States were only 1,883 dozenhi m^ but there were none in 1909. ^ ' ^"^*^" ^ ^yi-, Chinese-made socks are of coarse, inelastic cotton cloth and are kept adjusted to the leg by a strap, usually of cotton. Socks of foreign manufacture, which i^ preferred fn^f 'TT""^ T^^T Z^ 9'^^rl. ^^ P^^^^^ ^«tt«^' the shape of theXk co^ quahties selling at 3 shilhngs (73 cents) up per dozen c. i. f . Shanghai, and white is the 246 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. i most popular color. Fancy socks, the designs being small stars or flowers, are also very much m favor. These range in price up to |1 .46 per dozen. \V inter socks are im- ported mostly from England. Prices vary from $1.46 per dozen up. A large business is carried on in women's socks, the importance of which is realized by few foreign manufacturers. Socks in plain colors costing about 73 cents per dozen are the best sellers of this class, though there iw also a large mark»»t for women's fancy socks. Chinese taste is constantly changing, but at present women's fancy socks are mostly spotted; practically none are striped. New samples are constantly required ^h^ smallness and shape of the Chinese woman's foot are of great importance The following are the usual assortments in th<> case of 100 dozeii8: Women's socka— size 6^, 15 dozens; size 7, 30 dozens; size 7^ 25 dozens; size 8, 20 dozens; size Si 10 dozens. Men s socks— size 8, 5 dozens; size 8^, 25 dozens; size 9, 40 dozens; size 9* 25 dozens; size 10, 5 dozens. nnn^i^^^ Selling at $1.22 up are usually packed r^O dozens to the case; poorer qualities 100 dozens to the case. Moreover, they are packed 1 dozen to a carton if of poorer quality and one-half dozen to a carton if of bettor quality. Glazed green paper should be used; otherwise it will be thought that the socks are of Japanese make Every dozen or half-dozen, as the case may be, should be scuttled with two silk ribbons and should be wrapped with a strip of white glazed paper bearing the trade-mark and Chinese name of the importing firm. These extra expenses must be borne by the manufacturer and should be taken into consideration in fixing prices. There is a limited business in women's black stockings selling at $1 22 to $1 1*5 per dozen. These are packed 50 dozens to the case. ' ^ The trade in socks and stockings of the best grades, which are sold to foreikmers IS confined almost entirely to British importing firms having agents in London. HOSIERY TRADE IN SOUTH CHINA. [Consul General George E. Anderson, Hongkonp, Commerce Reports, May 28, 1915.] Present indications are that Chinese-made hosiery will supplant almost entirely the supply of such goods which formerly came from Germany and Austria to supplv the cheap Chinese trade. ' In recent months the Japanese goods have come to be less in favor, for while they made a good appearance and in general are designed to supplant German goods the Chinese user has found them of inferior quality. On the other hand, the h..siery f^ . j"l^*^^^^."^^^^ ^^^^ factories in South China and in the larger establishments started by Chinese capitalists both in Hongkcng and vicinity an.i in Shanghai has been found by Chinese users to be greatly superior to the Japanese in wearing qual- ities. At the same time these factories have succeeded in turning out goods of very fair appearance With their usual discrimination in such things. Chinese consumers are turning to tlie product of their own concerns as representing better value The present situation in this trade, therefore, represents a divinion of the trade on the one hand between ('heap Chinese-made gos8ibilities along other lines of manufacture. One noteworthy feature in the movement has been the widespread effort to di8j)Ose of American hosiery in direct connection with the sale of American shoes. One enter- prising American hosiery firm haa made a pronounced success in this direction, and its stockings and socks of good quality and at popular prices have regularly been offered for sale along with American footwear in all leading German cities. The prices and quality have created a distinct demand, and German dealers have turned to Americ^an sources to secure the requisite supply. As most of the hosiery required in Germany is supplied by Chemnitz manufacturers and jobbers, inquiries have come to this ijig the American wares in stock in order to meet the demands of customers and utilize existing relations with them. At present much of the volume of the imports of American seamless silk hosiery into Germany is due to the quick recognition by German dealers and manufacturers that there is an excellent opportunity for making good profits in handling the article, and the remainder is the result of a very well-organized campaign by a single American firm. The cost of raw materials is the same in both countries, and tlie factor of wages enters relatively less into the cost of seamless hose, so that differences in wage rates do not count for as much as in the case of full-fashioned wares. LARGE SALES OF AMERICAN HOSIERY. iConsul George Nicolas Iflt, Nuremberg, Daily Consular and Trade Reports, Apr. 19, 1913.] Dealers in Nuremberg say that the American makers of silk hosiery, gloves, under- wear, etc., have obtained a large share of the German trade. It is said that the maim- facturers of Chemnitz now have experts in the United States studying American methods of manufacture and buying new machines. The quality and low price of the American silk liosiery now being offered in Germany have caused a considerable increase in the demand for this class of goods as compared with cotton and lisle. I-adies' eilk stockings sell in Germany for $0.60 to $5 a pair, the greatest demand being for a staple article selling l»etween $0.90 and $1.60. Silk socks for men can be bought for $0.60 \o $2.40 per pair, a favorite staple selling for $0.72 to $0.80 a pair. At Frankfort on the Main the demand for silk hosiery is not large. One dealer catering to the high-priced trade states that with few exceptions silk hosiery is worn only in the evening. French silk socks are there regarded as the best. The more expensive grades of English and French socks, selling for $2 and up, are generally made with embroidered clocks. One leading dealer in Frankfort carries American silk socks with lisle toes, heels, and tops, wliich sell at $1.10 per pair, while an American shoe firm has met with fair demand for a line of silk 8 about 1 300 t more than $0.50 or $0.75 per pair, they would probably meet with a ready sale, l30th in men's and women's styles. There is also some demaiid for the better qualities, such as retail at $1 and $1.50 a pair. In the bf^ginning it wou Id be well to secure an energetic agent to introduce 8u< h goods to the merchants through- out Syria and to ship small quantities by parcel post to minimize shipping costs. UNITED E3NGDOM. FAVORABLE OPPORTUNITY FOR SALE OF AMERICAN GOODS. [Commercial Attach^ A. H. Baldwin, London, Feb. 8, 19ir., Commerce Reports, Mar. 15, 1915.1 Retail prices on the stockings sold in English shops are not held, i\B in America, at 15, 25, 35, or 50 cents, butinclude practically all intervening figures, all hough the usual interval in the larger shops is 6 cents (3 pence). Some of the smaller hIiods, in pricing on special sales, make use even of the farthing (hulf cent), as well as the halfpenny (1 cent). There is no j^rejudice against American products on the part of th(; English buying public, and, in the opinion of one of the leading merchants of London, there will l»e an exceptionally favorable opportunity at the close of the war for the introduction of many classes of manufactured articles from the United States. There are numeroiis products in which competition is practicable and where American styles and qualities are much favored by European buyers. Attention is invited to the fact that a more ready disposition on the part of American manufacturers to comply with the special requirements of this mark(;t is necessary. It is very difficult to disturb the accustomed habits of the people here, and it is far simpler to make the necessary modifications in production than to attempt to force unusual styles. For exam})le, in men's underwear the preference is for two-pie<'e suits, and while buyers might admit that the union suit has many advantages, tlie national habit persists in clinging to the former styles. Further, it should be noted that there are many factors that would not perhaps occur to American manufacturers — such as the character of the climate in Great Britain, which forces people to dress more warmlj^ than in the States. American homes are maintained nabitually at temperatures higher than is usual here, and tlie result is that in the United States one can with comfort wear lighter underwear than in England, where the difference in temperature between outdoors and within is materially less. English tailors in making men's clothing cut trousers very mu( h higher in the waist, and especially in the back. The result is that underwear is alno cut to conform to this style. Makers of drawers in America should take this fact into consideration. In the matter of hosiery, the suggestion is made that American manufacturers are loath to comply with requirements that are essential for this market. Women's stockings, as knit here, increase in length with the size of the hose, and buyers insist on the longer length of the leg of the stocking as the length of the foot increases. It is understood that American makers standardize their product to a much greater extent than is the custom in Great Britain, and are slow to acquiesce in making such modifi- cations in their machines as are required with rt^pect to these minor details. The insistence on a purchase of a minimum quantity for example, 30 dozens of single style — is another obstacle. German manufacturers have heretofore l»een quite pre- pared to supply different styles on orders for as few as 3 dozens of a given kind. In any large shop, which may carry 300 to 4(X) styles, it is obviously out of the question to consider the purchase of 30 dozens of each. The sizes of men's socks usually sold are 10, lOi, and 11, and only in the largest stores will be found sizes of 9^ or 11^. It should further be remembered that London is ordinarily a great tourist center, not only for tra\ elers from America, but also from Germany, Austria, France, Italy, and other countries, and there is a considerable Bale for men's hose of silk and cotton among this clientage. This trade is for tlie moment interrupted, but it undoubtedly will be resumed at the close of the war. For the strictly English trade, woolen cashmere practically crowds out all other styles of hosiery; and it was stated to the writer that in a shop emplojdng over ] ,000 men it would probably be difficult to find a single employee who wore ot her than woolen hose. American cotton-fleeced underwear is l>elieved to be the best article for the price that is on the market here, and undoubtedly a great sale could be developed. It should be emphasized again that it is difficult, if not quite impracticable, to modily very much the current taste in such purchases here; and greater trade will be secured by following the Unes of least resistance and providing the styles and quahties to which the market is committed by long custom and tradition. A number ot samples are sent, indicating in part the range of principal quahties and styles of Hosiery and underwear in favor with the great middle class in England fThese samples may be inspected at the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic C^ommerce or its branch offices.] tor men's socks, the popular prices are 18 pence and 2 flhillin pH (3b and 48 cents), and a tremendous trade is done in styles at these prices. STEADILY INCREASING SALE OP AMERICAN SILK HOSIERY. [Daily Consular and Trade Reports, Apr. 19, 1913.] Reports from all parts of England and Scotland indicate that the demand for silk hosiery, and especially for hose with lisle or cotton top and sole and silk boot is increasing steadily. In Leeds the demand exceeded the supply during 1912' American manufacturers are said to have first introduced the silk stocking with cotton parts, but m some sections the Germans have almost obtained control of the market on account of their ability to fill orders promptly and to meet the continuous demand without delay, which the American manufacturers would not guarantee. Some brands of American silk and part-silk hose, especial! v in the medium-price grades have a wide distribution, however. Standard grades of men's silk hose from the United States sell for 61 cents a pair. The importing is generally done by distribut- ing firms or agents in the large cities, although some dealers buy direct The following list of prices in one of the leading department stores of London, obtained by Consul General Griffiths, will give an idea of the prices prevailing- Men's socks— black silk, embroidered clocks, $2.37 to $2.67; black spun silk, $0.95 to $1 33- black and colors, self-clocks, $1.20; black silk, shot with colors, $1.76 to $1 88 Men's stockings--black silk $3.46 to $3.86; black spun silk, $2.19 to $2.49. Women's stock- i^^Z;^ tS m'P''?f ^^' ^^- •?, *^IL^^5 tan spun silk, $0.71t o $0.89; black pure silk, $1 84 to $3.91; white pure silk, $2.06 to $2.31; tan pure silk, $1.84 to $1 94 In Scotland the cold climate has been regarded as an obstacle to the sale of silk hosiery for street wear but this trade shows a tendency to increase considerably The sale of this class of hosiery in Belfast, though small, is also on the increase In men s hose the demand is practically confined to black socks for evenincr wear as heavy weights are ordinarily worn for day dress on account of the excessive moisture and coolness of the climate. VENEZUELA. IMPORTS FROM DIFFERENT COUNTIUES. [Consul Ralph J. Totten, Maracaibo, Daily Consular and Trade Rei>ort.s, Sept. 2, 1911.] Cotton knit goods, consisting mostly of undershirts and hosiery, make a verv im- portant Item in the imports into the Maracaibo district. The imports of the two arti- cles for the calendar year 1910 were as follows: Articles. Germany. England. Spain. United States. TotAl. Ifosierv 12,479 14,916 11,883 20,258 $4, 3(\2 Undershirts $5,349 $447* 40,970 Total 17,395 5,349 22,141 447 45,332 In women's stockings the demand is for solid white, pink, and light blue in the cheap grades and for blacks and fancies in the better grades. For children blacks whites, and pmks are the most popular. Stockings cost abroad from $0.75 to $6 per dozen and retail here at 25 cents to $1 per pair. Men's half hose cost $1 50 to $6 per dozen abroad and retail here at 35 cents to $1 per pair. White or unbleached bd- bnggans are most used, although there is some sale for fancies and drop-stitch half hose in the better grades. Only one style of undershirt is used in this section, although they are imported in several grades. The popular garment is of medium or light weight knit cotton with full-length sleeves and no opening front or back. They slip on over the head like a 254 THE HOSIERY INDUSTRY. long-sleeved, low-necked gymnasium shirt. The favorite colors are light blue pink fancy stripes, and solid black. The cheaper grach^s have sewed seams and hemmed cutfs. The naedium grades have knitted cuffs sewed on. The best grades are full fashioned with knitted se^ms and knitted cuffs. The cheap grade co^ts abroad abcut $1.50 per dozen. With freight and duties added they cost the jobber about $2 12 laid down in Maracaibo. They are jobbed at $2.50 per dozen and retailed at 25 cents each. The best average grade costs about $5 per dozen or $6.50 laid down here ^V^ ^ u ® ^^ jobbed at $7.72 per dozen and retails lor 80 cents each Merchandise of this nature should never be parked in cartons or any sort of boxes Undershirts are generally wrapped in thin paper, one dozen to the package. The sizes are from 30 to 38 inches chest measure. About 50 dozen shirts are wmpped in paper and then baled in cloth for shipping. This method of packing saves the buyer a considerable sum m duties, as all Venezuelan customs chaises are Jigured on Vn.ss weight, including containers and packing material. The customs duties on cotton knit goods eutenng Venezuelan customhouses are 2.50 bolivars per kilo (48 cents per 2.2 pounds) plus 56.5 per cent surtax on the amount of the duty. IMPOBTS INTO OUTLYING TERRITORIES AND FOREIGN AMERICAN COUNTRIES. The value of the imports of hosiery into foreign coimtries of the Western Hemisphere, and into Porto Rico, Hawaii, and the PhiUt)- pme Islands are shown below. The statistics are as complete as can be ob tamed from the official reports of the various countries The classification in each case is that of the country for which tlie data are given. In the case of many countries, the imports of hosiery are not separately imported, but are included under the. heading of Clothing" or ^'Wearing apparel," and in such cases the data are not here shown. Statistics of the imports of the various kinds of wearing apparel so far as thev are specified in the official reports of tlie countries mentioned below and of other countries in the Western Hemisphere appear in a report on the Cost of Production of Women's Mushn Underwear, previously issued by the Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. Argentina (year ended Dec. 31, 1913): Hosiery — Wo^" $1,903,055 Silk - •• 9'i'^^5 Other fibers.. '.'... *.'.'.'.'.".".".".■.' .".'.■.'.";.■ 52]' fin Brazil (year endedDec.31, 1912): Hosiery, cotton "" 4ifi' iJi Canada (year ended Mar. 31, 1914): " ^^o> J-'Jo Socks and stockings — S?**?^ -- 1,084,801 f^^^^ -. 1,828,688 Chile (year ended DecVsi; 1913)*: 301,836 Hosiery, drawers, undershirts, etc., knitted, cH)tton 825 684 Hosiery — ' ' Wool 72 6^3 ^V - 18,805 1 lax O QQ/;» Costa Rica (year ended Dec. 31, 1912): Stockings. fil' 416 Ecuador (year ended Dec. 31, 1911) : "±,-±10 Hosiery — S?^^^ 103,097 Wool 1 Q27 ^V^ 215 • Linen 2 249 Hawaii (year ended June 30, 1913): Hosierj^, cotton, from foreign coun- ' ^^^^^ 1,383 FOREIGN TRADE. 255 Mexico (year ended June 30, 1912): Hosiery — Cotton $310, 544 Linen 588 Artificial silk 267 Hosiery and knitted goods, not specially mentione>^^^ -duatiy.) ''z^jx^z^'zi^^, '^r.i't^terc^-a^a^trand^r ^^"■ of patterns for circular knitting macWn^ LeiA 1^ Hepzis ^''^P*™*'™ ST' U *l r^"''^"^ machinery and embroi/er/.' S uXfi^I Exhibition nf iV it Commission Reports, vol. 3, 1891 i^xniuition, Clfc^o i9^6. ^"* ^*^' manufacturing. American school of correspondence. ^l!^t\^- ^- ^?itti°g: Practical instructions in the mechanical details of all tv™» nffi!.,'iVl*'°^-°'*^l"°^7-..*^'^''^''- American school of cor^ndence 1«» ^^ Official American textiledirectory. Boston: Lord & NaMe ('7 wm.al Po's^'lt • ^- ^"^'" "°'^ ^'^' «'""^' «""" fil^^' t» '^l-ri"'' "delphia: E. A. Qumer, James H. Fashioning on circular rib knitting machines. Leicester, England, Quilter James Henry, and Chamberlain, John. Framework knittino. «n^ i,^„i E^".td%^ "sT'C "" *"' '""^■''•'^ "' '""^^^^ ^^^- ^^^> J^|Sfr„^^|^SSb''y\'n\^^^^^^^^ "^ ^'^^^y, Rowlett, William Tertius. Technology of framework knitog^ 'london: VV. Kent JSlS^) ^^Jat-g^itSnt Kib%^Sl;-- "-^ - '^« ^— '^■ Th^','1%7'1'' ""'■°"^- ?,'^'»"^ ^"^ * Nagle Co., SXly ' ^''^^■ '^i-P'^Jl??' Ernest The scienVoflnitt^^^ fabrics and machine knitting. New York: John Wiley^ s^ principles of knit (Inc.), 1914. Office. 1865. inienor. Washington: Govenmient Printing United States census office. Ninth censiLs 1870 gS^c'^i?«