MASTER NEGA TIVE NO. 91-80241 MICROFILMED 1992 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY IJBRARIES/NEW YORK JJ as part of the , Foundations of Western Civilization Preservation Project «l^ Funded bv the NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES Renroductions may not be made without permission from Columbia University Library COPYRIGHT STATEMENT The copyright law of the United States - Title 17, United States Code - concerns the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material,.. Columbia Uniyersity Librar/ reserves the right to refuse to accept a copy order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involye violation of the copyright law. AUTHOR: MURRAY, JOHN , PUBLISHER title: HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS .... PLA CE : LONDON DA TE : 1868 Restrictions on Use: Master Negative # COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DEPARTMENT BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET Original Material as Filmed ~ Existing Bibliographic Record 947.01 xM96 Murray^ John, publisner, London « Harid-bock for travellers in Russia^ Poland, ami Finlard* 2d rev. ed. «.» London, J. Miir ra.y; IlcfW York^ Wiley; c^^tvC,^, etc. 3 1868. 400 p. Incl* imp^ plan&» 2 fold* maps. Compiled by Thomas MLchell. / TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA REDUCTION RATIO: FILM SIZE: 5^!^_*^ „_„ IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA 'JlJ' IB IIB DATE FILMED:^ 9' 0-9/ INITI A LS__|^_4f>^-_^_,. RLMED BY; RESEA"rC H PUBLICAT IONS, INC W OODBRIDGE. CT U.^ illBLIOGRAFI lie IRHI'l^liLARrilLS EN I in: Ha^HV-V ( ToUvN , T^uWltiW f-f, C( 1 V -/HK^c/cZ-f (>i fi^f J i'a. Bibliographic Irregularities in tiie Urig inal DocuineiLt List volumes and pages affected; include name of instituliun if filming borrowed text. 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LONDON: JOHN MUREAY, ALBEMAELE STREET. PARTS: A. W. GALIGNANI & CO.; AND A. XAVIER, 22, RUE DE LA BANQUE. ST. PETERSBURG : Mrs. WATKINS. NEW YORK : WILEY. 1868. iTie right of n-anslation is reserved. THE ENQLISII EDITIONS OP MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS : — AIX.LA- \ CHAPELLE J AMSTERDAM . ANTWERP BADEN-BADEN BERLIN . BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE . COLOGNE. DRESDEN FRANKFURT . GRATZ . THE HAGUE . HAMBURG HEIDELBERG. BASLE BERNE . COIRE CONSTANCE GENEVA . LAUSANNE LUCERNE. BOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA . LEGHORN LUCCA MANTUA. MILAN . MODENA , NAPLES . PALERMO Germany, Holland, and Belgium, I.A.MAYER. J MULLER.-W. KIRBERGER. MAX. KORNICKEK. D. R. MARX. MUQUARDT. — KIESSLING & CO. A.BIELEFELD. GUKVEN.-NELTE & CO. ARNOLD. C. JUG EL. LEUSCHNER A LUBENSkY. NIJHOFF & CO. MAUKE, SOUNE MOllR. KISSINGEN LEIPZIG . LUXEMBOURG MANNHEIM MUNICH . NURNBERG . PEST PRAGUE . ROTPKROAM . STUTTGART . TRIESTE , VIENNA . . WIESBADEN C. JUG EL. „„„ BROCKHAUS.-DURR. a'SrIA a FONTAINE.- LOFFLER-KOTFER. LITERARISCH.-ARTTISISCHE. _ANSTALT.-1. PALM. SCH RAH— ZEISER. HARTLEREN.-G.HECKENAaT. — OSTERLAMM.— RATH. . CALVK. KRAMERS.— PETRI, P. NEFF. MUNSTER.-COEN. C. (JEROLD.— BRAUMULLEK. . KREIDEL. Switzerland. PREFACE. ^ The present Handbook for Kussia, Poland, and Finland will be § found to vary materially from the edition corrected m 1849. The Russian empire has since passed through a memorable H. GEORG.-H. AMRERGER. UALP.-JEUT & REINERT. GHUBENMANN. MECK. H. GEORG.— DESROGIS.- CH EirnU LI EZ,— MONROE.— GHISLETTY. T. RorssY. F. KAISER. NEUCIIATEL . GERSTER SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER. SOLEURE. '"""^ ST. GALL EN ZURICH . to JENT. HUBER. II. FUSSLI A CO.— MEYER & ZELLER. H. F LEUTHOLD, POST- STRASSE. Italy. M. RUSCONI. PARMA . GOODBAN. ^ ,.„ PISA . . GRONDONA & CO.-ANTOINE PERUGIA. HEUF. ROME MAZZAIOLI. F. BARON. SIENA NEGKETTI. TURIN . ARTARIA. — DUMOLARD ^ FR'eRES.-G. BRIGOLA. VENICE . L. RONCHI VINCFNZI & ROSSI. vPRriNA . DORANT. -DUFRESNE. VERONA. PEDONE. J.ZANGIIIERI. NISTRI.-JOS. VANNUCCHL VINCENZ. BARTELLl. SPITHOVER-PIALE.— MONALDINI. ONORATO PORRI. MAGGI — L. BEUF.— MA- RIETTl.-BOCCA FRERES. Mt'NSTER. — COEN.— MEINERS. H. F. MlJNSTER.-MElNIERS. France, AMIEN«( . ANE LARUE. HUE. DOLOY. TREUTTEL ET WITRTZ.— GRUCKER.-DER1VAUX. MONGE ET VILLAMUS. GIMET A COTELLE. GF:oHnET. ^ LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT. DURAN.— BAILLIERE. FR. DE MOYA. )S) Bussia, «T PFTERS-) •• _^,„„ I MOSCOW . W.GAUTIER.-DEUBNER.-LANG. ST. PET t.K!> J ISSAKOFF.-ROTTGER.-WOLFF | ODESSA . . CAMOIN FRERES. BURO. Malta, strucrcle on the shores of the Black Sea, and the Emperor Nicholas 2 has been succeeded by Alexander IL, the Emancipator. The ^ changes evolved by these two events have been so m^ch in « favour of travellers, and have made Russia a country so highly z interesting to those who study the political progress of nations ^and the consequent increase of their well-being, that a new edition of the Handbook has become a matter of urgent necessity. '^ Eecent travellers in Kussia will attest that there is now no ^ country on the Continent where foreigners are more free from ' the vexatious proceedings of custom-house and police ofiScers '^ The passport-system of Kussia, once so strictly enforced, at present only demands that the traveller should be provided with i national passport bearing the visa that will be readily given by any Russian diplomatic or consular authority ; and even during his residence and his travels within the empire the stranger is subject to no further police regulations than the exhibition of his passport at the hotel or house where he resides. He may converse on politics as freely as in his own country, and study the social condition of the empire in all its interesting phases of transition without let or hindrance, and without any fear of the liabilities described by writers on Russia ten years ago. The introduction of railways is among the most important changes that the traveUer will find in Russia. The fact is not sufficiently known or appreciated that the journey to St. Petere- buro- may be performed throughout the entire distance by rail in three and a half to four days. Kor is there any longer the necessity of posting through a country of which the language to a Western traveller is incomprehensible, and of which the roads were, perhaps, the worst in Europe. A railway connects Moscow ^ a 3 Ionian Islands. Constantinople. Greece. MUIB. CORFU . J.W.TAYLOR. WICK. ATHENS . A. NAST. VI PREFACE. with St. Petersburg ; and express-trains convey the European to meet the Asiatic at the fair of Kijni-Kovgorod. A few other short lines already run between places of commercial and histo- rical interest, and are described in this work ; many others are either commenced or projected. The great trunk line in course of construction between Moscow and the Southern, most productive provinces of Russia, and the line that wiU unite it with the Baltic Provinces by way of Witepsk, will open several new routes of much importance. There is no doubt that the complete intersection of the empire by railroads will attract, in addition to the travel- lers for pleasure and instruction, numerous commercial and financial agents, who will eagerly seek their profit in developing the resources of such a new and fertile country. The adoption of a liberal tariff, obviously impending in the interest both of the Russian people and of the Imperial revenue, will still further promote individual and commercial intercourse with England, to the immeasurable advantage of the agricultural interest of the one country, and the manufacturing industry of the other. A Handbook for such a vast empire as Russia must neces- sarily be a compilation ; and the text of 1849 having been almost entirely abandoned, the difficulty and tediousness of preparing this edition have been much aggravated by the want of recent guide-books for St. Petersburg and Moscow even in the Russian language. For the new materials which constitute the present edition'^I am indebted to many kind contributors. Mr. J. Savile Lumley, Secretary of Embassy, has given the Handbook the advantage of his artistic knowledge in the description of the Picture Galleries of the Hermitage. To the Directors and Curators of the Hermitage I owe much assistance in pre- paring the guide to the Sculpture Gallery and Painted Vases, the index to its Ai't collections, and the catalogue of the prin- cipal objects in the Museum of Greek Antiquities from Kertch. The Route through the Crimea is by :Mr. Kicholas Rowe, who visited it in 1864. Mr. Sutherland Edwards, whose works on Russia and Poland are well known for their correctness, has supplied the Historical Notice, on Poland ; while Mr. R. G. Watson, late Attache to H.M.'s Legation at Teheran, has afforded the greater part of the information contained in the Routes to PREFACE. Vll Persia. My grateful acknowledgments are also due to several other literary coadjutors at St. Petersburg and Moscow; and beyond all this assistance I have consulted many Russian works descriptive of local interests and curiosities. The remainder is the result of personal travel and obsers^ation during a resi- dence of many years in Russia. T. MiCHELL, F.R.G.S., Attache to Her Majesty's Emhassij at the Court of Ihissia. London i May, 1865. PREFACE TO SECOND NEW EDITION. -♦o*- Thk exhaustion of the previous editions affords an opportunity (jf making considerable additions to the Handbook for Russia, and of aftering such parts of it as were no longer applicable to existing circumstances. At the same time, the stidden and rapid extension of railways in Russia, particularly in the more Southern parts of the Empire, renders it impossible to present to the public a work which shall give a faultless description of the several routes, liable as they are to almost daily modifications. In the present edition the traveller will, however, find more detailed reference to the History of Russia in connection with the towns through which the lines in construction or already completed will enable him to pass, as well as a less imperfect sketch of the routes through the Crimea. In re-arranging and amplifying these, no unsparing use has been made of ]\Ir. H. D. Seymour's excellent work, ' Russia on the Shores of the Black Sea.' It is also right to acknowledge that the ^ Geographical Dictionary of Russia,' edited by Mr. P. Semenoff", Director of the Statistical Department of the Imperial Home Office, has contributed much useful information. ^ T. M. St. Petersburg, July, 1868. ( Vlll ) CONTENTS. Sect. I.— EUSSIA. Introduction Page 1 EOUTES. [The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described,'] ROUTE PAGE 1. London to ^S*^. Petersburg, over- land, via Berlin, KownOy Wilna, and Pskof 65 2. London to St. Petersburg, by Sea, via Cronsfaf/^ 157 3. London to St. Petersburg, via Archangel 157 4. Berlin to Revaly by Riga^ Dor- pat, &c » .. 163 5. St. Petersburg to Novgorod the Great 173 ROUTE PAGE 6. St. Petersburg to 3/bscoio .. 176 7. Moscow to the Troitsa Monas- tery (Troitskaya - Sergieva Lavra) 217 8. IMoscow to Nijni Novgorod, with branch line to Shuya and Ivan- ovo, and excursion up the Oka to Murom^ Elatma, and Ka- simof 220 9. Volga: Tyqv io Astrakhan .. 228 Sect. II.— SOUTH RUSSIA AND CRIMEA, CAUCASUS AND SIBERIA. Introduction Page 235 ROUTE PAGE 10. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lemberg, Czeniowitz, and Kish- enef 236 11. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lemberg, Brody, Volochisk, Bar, and Balta " 237 12. Riga or St. Petersburg to Odessa, by Diinaburg, Witcbsk, Orel, and Kief — the South of Kussia 238 13. Moscow to Odessa, by Titian Orel, Kursk, Kharkoff, Pol- tava, Kremenchuk, Elizavet- grad, and Balta 253 14. Moscow to Voronej, by Piazan, Piajskj and Kozlof. Branch lines to Morshansk and Elets 264 15. St. Petersburg, Moscow, or Riga, to Taganrog and Ro.stof (Sea of Azofj, by Kharkof ,. .. 270 route PAGE 16. Odessa to the Crimea overland, by Nikolaef and Kherson . . 273 17. Odessa to the Crimea by sea: Eupatoria to Kertch, and ex- cursions through the Crimea . . 277 18. Kertch to Tsaritsin on the Volga, hy Postof 317 19. Rostof to iVbyoc/t^rA-as^ .. .. 318 20. London to Tiflis, by Constanti- nople — The Caucasus .. .. 319 21. Tiflis to Teheran, hj Ararat and Tabreez 323 22. Tiflis to Teheran, by Baku or Lenkoran, and Resht or Astra- bad, on the Caspian . . . . 325 23. Lenkoran to Teheran, by land, mkPesht .. 326 24. London to Persia, by w^ay of St. Petersburg 328 25. London to Pekin, via St. Peters- buig, Iviakhta, and I^Iongolia 328 ( i^ ) Introduction Sect. III.— POLAND. Page 333 KOUTES. route page 34. Berlin to Warsaw, via Brom- berg and Thorn 351 35. St. Petersburg to Warsaw, via Wilna 360 36. Vienna to Wai-saw 361 37. Warsaw to Lodz 362 38. Warsaw to Sandomir, up the Vistula •• 362 39. Warsaw to Prussian Frontier, down the Vistula 36- ROUTE PAGE 40. Warsaw to Cracow, via Padom andKieltse 363 41. W^arsaw to Novogeorgievsk .. 364 42. Warsaw to St. "Petersburg, via Pidtusk, Ostrolenka^ and ^ Kowno 364 43. Warsaw to Moscow, via Brest- Litevski and Bobruisk .. .. 364 44. Warsaw to Kief, via Brest . . 365 45. Warsaw to Lemberg, via Lublin 366 Sect. IV.— FINLAND. Introduction 369 ROUTE. 55. Stockholm to Wgborg, by Abo and Ilelslngfors »o5 Index 393 ( ^ ) PLANS. PAGE St. Peteesbueq to face 71 Picture Galleries AT THE Hermitage 88 Moscow 180,181 Cathedral of the Assumption at Moscow 192 Travelling and Clue Map op Russia at the end. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN RUSSIA, POLAND, AID FOLAND. SECTION L— EUSSIA. INTEODUCTION. 1. Historical Notice 2. Statistics _ - - 3. Lanojuatre _ - - 4. Literature . - - 5. Measures, Weights^ and Coi; 6. Passport Regulalions 7. Custom-houses 8. Posting - - - - page - 1 - 30 - 32 - 39 - 44- - 51 - 51 - 52 9. Cuisine and Pieslnurants - 10. Climate, Clotliing, &c. •• 11. Sanitary Peculiarities 12. Sport - - - - 13. Society - - - - 14. Seasons for Travelling 15. Pvailways and Principal Routes pact - 16 - o6 - 57 - 58 - 62 - 63 - 64 1. — Historical Notice. The space allotted to this sketch beins sufficient only to furnish the traveller with a few historical memoranda of the remarkable events m Russian history and of the most celebrated sovereigns who have swayed the destinies of that empire, renders it impossible to give any descriptive details, more particularly of those monarchs who lived nearer to our own times, and who have figured conspicuously in European politics. The more salient and im]iortant iwints will, therefore, alone be mentioned. Further historical data will be found scattered throucih this Handbook. History and tradition concur in showing that Europe was peopled by three ^reat families of the human race, who emigrated westward, at distinct periods- the last of these n»ikTations was that of the Slavonians, who esta- blished 'themselves on the Don about 400 years before Christ. Jn the days of Herodotus their mode of life was exceedingly rude and barbarous ; they Bussia — 1868. * 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I. had no houses, and lived a nomadic and pastoral life, jounicyinp; from one verdant spot to another, and stopping; at each only so long; as tliey found sufficient pasture for their flocks and herds. Like all the other aboriginal races of Europe, the Slavonians dwelt together in more or less numerous colonies c^overned by elected or hereditary Elders of a ]iatriarchal type. They held their councils of wise men, who administered laws very similar to those of the Germanic races. Their principal occupations were the rearing of cattle, the chase and the management of bees, while their chief characteristics seem to have been in a degree analogous to those of their descendants, the modern Kussians : — they were hospitable, courageous, good- humoured, contented, and immoderately fond of spirituous hquors; like most barbarous nations, however, the courage of the Slaves frequently degenerated into cruelty, and murder was no uncommon crime amongst them. The law of vengeance or retaliation was acted upon until the intro- duction of the penalties or compensation in money known as wcregeld in German, and vira in Slavonian. Their religion was idolatrous, and their mode of worship resembled the gross and degraded forms of the ancient Druids ; they not only oifered up their prisoners as a holocaust to their chief deity, Perune, the Zeus of the Greeks and the Jupiter of the Romans, but would sometimes even immolate their own children to his honour. It was not till the fifth century that the wild Slavonians, who had over- run a large portion of European Eussia, founded any remarkable settle- ments ; these were Novgorod, on the Ilmen, and Kief, or Kiow, on the Dnieper ; where they afterwards became distinguished for their commerce, their riches, and incipient civilization. The tribal groups of the Xorth began, about the middle of the 9th century, to feel a want of unity and of a system of government better adapted to the civilization which their inter- course with the Germans and the Greeks was introducing. Embroiled in dissensions, and subject on the S.E. to the exactions of Asiatic races encamped on the Volga and the Don, and on the N.W. to the depredations of the sea-kings, the Slavonians, according to an old chronicle, sent a depu- tation to the Variags, or Normans, with the message and the invitation, " Our land is great and bountiful, but there is no order in it ; come and rule over us." In 864 Iiurik, a Norman prince, took up his residence at Novgorod, and there founded the llussian monarchy, the sceptre of which continued to be held by his descendants for upwards of 700 years. Two of Ivurik's followers subsequently left him to seek their fortunes in the south, and on their journey to Constantinople they attacked the town of Kief, gained ix)ssession of it, and it thus became the capital of a second Slavonian kingdom. '' Six sovereigns succeeded Eurik, "who, with their military comrades or drujina, ^vere constantly making war upon neighbouring tribes or fighting for the right of succession to the throne of Kief, then the capital of Kussia. These princes all followed the pagan worship of their fathers ; but Vladimir, the seventh in descent, who possessed himself of the throne in 981, was converted to Christianity, originally introduced, although not established, by Olga, who embraced the Greek religion at Constantinople about the year 955. His nature became changed, the cruelty of his disposition gave way to clemency and humility, and when awarding punishments for crime he is said to have exclaimed, " What am I, that I should condemn a fellow- 1 u ussia. 1. — Itisiorical Notice. creature to death ? " He also endeavoured to overcome the violent preju- dices and superstitions of his subjects by founding seminaries, with professors from Greece ; and from that classic land he likewise procured architects and other artisans to instruct his peoi)le in their several crafts. His military conquests embraced the whole of Poland. Vladimir deserved well of his country, and the Russian Church has enrolled him among the number of her saints. His son Yaroslaf, who reigned thirty-five years, and died at the age of seventy-seven years, was a prince of considerable attain- ments and a great patron of the arts; the church of St. Sophia, at Nov<^orod, was by his order decorated with pictures and mosaics, portions of which remain to the present time. His wars with Boleslas of Poland, as w^ell as his acquirements and the splendour in which he lived, made his name known and respected throughout Europe. Three of his daughters ^verc married to the Kings of France, Norway, and Hungary ; and his eldest son, Vladimir, who died before him, espoused a daughter of the unfortunate Harold, the last of our Saxon kings. Yaroslaf died in 1054, and, like his father, divided his territories among his sons. Vladimir Mouomachus, his grandson, who died in the early part of the next centur>', did the same ; and as the princely house multiplied, the country was con- tinually a prey to internal dissensions and strife. In the year preceding the death of Monomachus, Kief was nearly destroyed by fire, and from the great number of churches and houses that fell a prey to the flames that city must have been of great opulence and extent. This calamity was followed in the succeeding "reign by a still greater one, Avhen the sister capital, Novgorod, was desolated by a famine so awful that the survivors were not sufficiently numerous to bury the dead, and the streets were blocked up by the putrid corpses of the inhabitants. The reigns which followed this period of Russian history are distinguished by little else than continual civil wars, with this exception, that the town of Vladimir, built by Yurv L, in 1158, became in that year the capital instead of Kief. But a formidable enemy drew near in the person of Tushi, the son of Zendiis Khan, who, emigrating with his Tartars westward led them about the vear 1223, from the shores of the Sea of Aral and the Caspian, to those of the Dnieper. The Circassians and Polovtzes having endeavoured in vain to arrest th^e progress of the horde, were at length con- strained to apply to their hitherto inveterate foes for assistance, and, the cause beino- now equally dear to all parties, the Russians made an intrepid stand on the banks of the Khalka. The impetuous attack, however, of the invaders was not to be withstood ; and, the Prince of Kief treacherously abstainincr from taking part in the battle, the Russians were completely routed, and scarcely a tenth part of an army composed of 100,000 men escaped The enemy then ]nirsued his way unmolested to the capital, which he took, and put 50,000 of the inhabitants of the principaUty of Kief to the sword. The further progress of the Tartars northward was marked by fire and bloodshed; but, having reached Novgorod Severski, they faced about and retreated to the camp of Zenghis Khan, who was at this time in Buk- haria Thirteen years after, Baati Khan, his grandson, desolated Russia again, committing every species of cruelty and many breaches of faith with 1. — Historical Notice* Sect. I. the towns whicli submitted to his arms. In this manner the provmces of Pviazan, Periaslavl, Rostof, and several others fell into his hands : for with incredible apathy, and contrary to their usually warlike inchnations, the Russian princes neglected to raise any troops to dispute the progress of the Tartars ; and the attention of Yury 11., Prince of Vladimir, was at that important juncture engrossed in celebrating the marriage of one of his boyars. Housed, at length, to a sense of his desperate position, he placed himself at the head of some troops hastily called together, and left his family under the protection of one of his nobles, trusting that his capital would be able to sus- tain a long sieize. He was mistaken : the Tartars soon made themselves masters otTlndimir, and the j^rincesses, as well as other persons of distinction, were burnt alive in the church in which they had taken shelter. On hcarnig of this trac^ical event, Yury marched with his adherents to meet the foe : the contest was sanguinary and short ; but, after performing prodigies of valour the Russians were Iwrne down by overpowering numbers, and the prince was left amongst the slain. There was now nothing to arrest the march of the ruthless Tartars, and they pushed forward to within sixty miles of Novgorod, when they again turned round without any ostensible motive and "evacuated the Russian territory. The wretched condition into which the southern and central parts of the empire were thrown by these invasions afforded a most advantageous opportunity for other enemies to attack it ; and, accordingly, in 1242, and during the reign of Yaroslaf 11., the Swedes, Danes, and Livonians, sent a numerous and well-disciplined army to demand the submission of Novgorod ; this, Alexander, the son of the reigning prince, refused, and, leaving his capital, he advanced, unaided by any allies, to meet his opponents, and fought the celebrated battle of the Neva, which gained him the surname of Nevski and a place in the Russian calendar. The personal courage of Alexander in this battle was of the highest order, and mainly contributed to secure the victory. A cruel and constantly fluctuating war with the Tartars, various incur- sions by the Livonians, Litliuaniaiis, Swedes, and Poles, and the most frightful civil discord amongst the several, almost regal, provinces of Russia, occiipied fourteen successive reigns, between Yury II., who died in 1237, and Ivan I., who succeeded his father in the principality of Vladimir in 1328. At times, during this period, the Tartars arrogated to themselves the power of protectors of this or that interest ; and in the case of Ivan I., Uzbek Khan secured to him the possession of Novgorod, as well as of Vladimir and Moscow. Ivan's father had greatly beautified and improved the latter town, and Ivan followed his example and made it his residence. Here also resided the Metropolitan, and it therefore rapidly advanced in importance. Ivan's reign of thirteen years was remarkable as improving and peaceful ; and he exercised a sound discretion by building a wall of wood round the city, which supported a rampart of earth and stone. At the close of his life he took monastic vows, and died in 1341. In the reign of Ivan II., second son of the previous Tsar of that name, Moscow established its pre-eminence as a city, and became the capital of the empire. Ivan died in 1358. Towards the close of this century the Russians, under Dmitri IV., raised an army of 400,000 men, and met the Tartars near the Don, and defeated Russia. 1. — Historical Notice, them with great loss; the victors, however, ^^^fi^^^'^'i. g''^5^^^^^',^;\^,^^^'^ Dmitri revie%ved his army after the battle he iound ^t i-educec to^^^^^^^^^^ men: this success obtained for him the surname of ^^IJ^^^^- ^^^^^^^^^^^^ bnwpver to this victory the Tartars again advanced, and Dmitri, betiajea bv li'Iailies the v^lncls of the neighbouring states, deserted Moscow, which feU by cSulation into the hands of the Tartars who devastated it wi h fie and sword until it was utterly destroyed, no bmldmg being permitted to remain except those which happened to have been construe edot stone by the Grand Prince. The character of Dmitri isthus ? ^f^ ^^^,^> ^^^^^ mlitan Cvprian :— " He knew," savs that ecclesiastic, "hou o sot ten the Ciy offic^by condescension'; he was impartial in the -<^--^f^^ ustice, and delighted to promote the V<^^<^^^^^^^\^m~^}l}'^^ ^i \^^^^^ his learning was^small, but the rectitude of his ^^^posi ion and t^e kindne of his hea?t supplied the defects of education and entitle hii to ad tiucrnished place amongst Russian sovereigns." His son -l^^^^l A^-' 7^<^ "c^^etf himin 1389, was destined to see fy^^^^"^^!^ Tartars under Tamerlane, but they never reached the capital, ioi he pie mi^Tto "i^^^ them battle on the river Oka, when they sudden y tui-ned round and retieTas their countrymen had previously done on two o her occasions ^Russians attributed this to a miracle performed by a pic ure ofthTv h-in iLiy, painted by St. Luke. The horde, however joined by t^t^^^I^r.^^s lafd siege to Mosco.^ but T^V-^^^, inhabitants, the Grand Prince having retired with l^\%^^f^ .>,^^J^"'i ^^^^^^ exasperated at this defeat, the Taiiars in their '^'l'^^^^}^^^^^^^ rounding country and slaughtered the delence ess P^^^^^^^^; /l^^'\'^^^^^ first coined in Novgorod during t us ^'f S^^ = ^^^^^^;;^°,.^|^ 1^^?^^^^^^^^ supplied with skins and pieces of ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^ V''''\^ of vllh^^'^^^^^^^ were considered as equivalent to a grtvna the ^'^^^^f . ^^^^J ^'^:;.'^^^^^^^^ pound of gold or silver, of nine and a quarter ounces m Kief, and thiitcen "'Durinfi; reicm of Basil Russia was thrice visited with the plague and faiSne"°vine Kneient city of Novgorod was shaken by an -.r hq^^^^^^^^^ Xr the -reater part of its buildings had been consumed by fire. Internal d ntns brdi out on the death of Basil, -/^^iXtlZ^^^^^ respecting the succession to the throne between t^^,^^^^^^^^f .'^^ *^^^'^^^^^^^^^^ and his uncle George : this was, by the consent f .^ ^^^^f ^^ ,'Vom.en decision of the Khan of Tartarus ^^'^^ ^r ^'™ !.^vl a she? time i™ TiPVPrthplpss a civil war followed, and George was loi a short time m pos S oi^^the thmue when, findi/,, Im.solf «'^-'i-«'^,„^y ^'^p^M faniilv ho restored it to liis nop icw, and returned to his pi neipality o Ga toh Comp icatcd uars, Biisian and Tartar, followed; the prmcpal hrc deni of ^^S was that Ivan, the I'rinee of Mojaisk, in the interest of the tra tor Shem aka induced Basil to stop at the monastery of "h; 'iro. fa to ret n tha." 'on his arrival from the horde, and. havmg B-^ed \..m Aero he took him to Moscow and put out his eyes. A few years f'^'^tlfl ""';<' of iS^jaisk had committed this savage act Basil was restored to the th.one. '°Th^fir"t\illoit which Basil's successor, Ivan III., attempted was the 1. — Historical Notice. Sect, I. reduction of Kazan, in wliich lie succeeded after two severe campaigns ; tlie next was tlie subjection of Novgoral, in which he also succeeded, incorporating that cit}^ and province with his own dominions, and, having received the oaths of the inhabitants, he carried off with him to Moscow their celebrated Veche hell.* The next and most arduous undertaking was the destruction of the Golden Horde imder Akhmet, which he efiected in revenge for the insult offered him by that Khan in demanding the homage which he had received from his predecessors. Ivan spat on the edict and on Akhmet's seol, and put his ambassadors to death, si^aring one only to convey the intelligence to his master, who prepared in the following year to take his revenge ; but, awed by the preparations made to receive him on the Oka, he retired for a time, and subsequently took the more circuitous route through Lithuania, fioin which country he expected sup[)ort; the Russians, however, met and defeated a part of his horde, and were returning liome, when the Khan was met on a different route by the Nogay Tartars, who routed his army and slew him in the battle. His ally, Casimir ]V., also brought himself under Ivan's indignation, not only for this war, but liccausc he attempted to poison him, and a raid that he made into the territories of the Polish king was eminently successful. This powerful and ambitious prince also made treaties of alliance with, and received ambas- sadors from, the Pope, the Sultan, the Kings of Denmark and Poland, and from the Pepublic of Venice ; it was he who assumed the title of Grand Prince of Novgorod, Vladimir, Moscow, and all Kussia, and changed the arms of St. George on horseback for the Black Eagle with two heads, after his marriage with Sophia, a princess of the imperial blood of Constantinople. In fact, Ivan III. mav be called the true founder of the modern Russian empire. The Russian historian Karamsin thus describes him : — " Without being a tyrant like his grandson, he had received from nature a certain harshness of character which he knew how to moderate by the strength of his reason. It is, however, said that a single glance of Ivan, when he was excited with anger, would make a timid woman swoon, that petitioners dreaded to approach his throne, and that even at his table the boyars, his grandees, trembled before him ;" which portrait does not belie his own declaration, when the same boyars demanded that he should give the crown to his grandson Ivan, whom he had dispossessed in favour of a son by his second wife, " I will give to Russia whomsoever I please.'* He died, very infirm, in 1505, having reigned forty-three years. Wars between the Russians, the Poles, the Tartars, and the Novgorodians again arose on the death of Ivan ; and it was not till the death of Basil IV., his successor, and a minority of twelve years liad elapsed in the reign of Ivan IV., that internal cabals and intrigues were for a time suppresseil. This monarch, the lirst to take the title of 7kn-,t married Anastasia, the daughter of Roman Yury- vitcb, who in the early jxirt of his reign had the happiest ascendency over a character naturally violent and cruel. Ivan was at this period affable and ooodescendiug, accessible to both rich and jxwr, and his mental powers. * For the history of that ancient Republic, vide Route 5. f The sovereigns of Russia had hitherto been called Grand Princes. Tur it derived from the Gre^ Kaisar. Czar is a canmpt ortbographj of the title, and in Polish reads Char. Russia. l.-mslorical Notice. ^ army was unequal : he therefore establ shed in IJ^^ 'f J i,,,j„ their Streltsi, and armed them J^'h nu«UU mstead^^^^ |^^ ^^.^ arms, as their name impoHs, fiom htrela ^". "'T, " He likewise defeated of whichTew;. guiltk he f^-^^^A^XlS:'^:^^ died a prey to the S"<=f/"f J^ TrT hv . vin^Xsesums of money after having endeavoured to =''°"f, ■« '^ .^^^ °1,"^ last moments. As to different monasteries : he je^eived t^ie tonsuie m n s la ^^^^^^^^ a legislator he was su,)erior to his f'^'^'^^'Z^M^dk In his reign an of his nobles, compiled ;.«^5^« "^ f^j^^^^n ^^^^ in English ship, <^°'^'^r^fy^lfJ^^,^M^^ ^^n controlled his the Arctic Sea, anchored in tb^ "louth ol «c Uwin ^^^^^ reh'-ious prejudices, and tolerated the 1^"*'"= •'° f " j,' f^reicn ambas- mei^hantl a^ Moscow ; but he -ver «ho^ ^ ^:^ZllLrUi i^^on his sador without washing his own ™n^fute , altei tn ;,;„ „„ that hc^ w ^^^ inelligent, but that he should 1^^^^ ™tertained tne i ^^^^^^^ Scriptures in the hands of his 'fi^'^jJ^^^ZZ^ ha"f it disseminated atrinslation to be n^^''^ ° «- j^l^j^;^/^ A-fe^ observes Karamzin over his domimons. ^y't^'^^^^^^cA the recollection of his bad "the brilliant renown "f I;^^",""'!" victims were reduced to dust; qualities. The groans had ceas'^d. t^« uV w'tten, and the memory of Sew events caused ««"'=t onlv of he con 1-^^sf o t^^^^ Mogul kingdoms, this prince reminded people only ot t'''- ^o" l'''^^ ^ , jj archives, whilst The proofs of his atrocious actions were l^;"f , "/''!^f i' 'the nation as im- Kazan, Astrakhan, and S'^na rema.n_^ n the e> es o, tn _^ ^_^ ^^^ perishable monuments of his glorj .•'!',?'•'''„.•' jed or forgot the sur- ffl'ustrious author of their l-'r^'^;; f "^^^^^^S^ '^ S 0-^^ "' name of tyrant given l^^^^^y.^is crSHtey «till call him Ivan ' Ue rr^br^ttutiirfhtrhir^^^^^ f *.«v«r« between Ri«»la and England, r£d«' British Factory «ad(*i»^ • For history of inteiooiirse DCtween xmhbm — » BW! !w^ **^*^* 6 1. — JT'tHtorlcal Notice. Sect. I. Russia. 1. — Hif(torical Notice, reduction of Kazan, in wliicli lie succeeaed after two severe campai^Tns • the next was the subjection of NovcroroK observes ^-—^^^ " the brilliant renown of Ivan survived the recollection of his bad aualities The groans had ceased, the victims were reduced to dust; new events caused ancient traditions to be forgotten, and the memory of til I p ince rernded people only of the conquest of three Mogul kingdoms The roots of his atrodor^ actions were buried in the public archives, whilst Kazan Astrakhan, and Siberia remained in the eyes of the na ion as im- J^^Xabfe monum'ents of his glory The Russians, f >« X^ ^JJ™,^; illustrious author of their iiower and civilization, rejected or forgot the sur me 0° tyrant given him' by his contemporaries Under tje '"A-f ^°f some confused recollections of his cruelty they still caU him 1^ »!>/"« Mle' without distinguishing him from his grand ather Ivan III., to ; on Rnssia had given tlie same epithet rather in P-ise than m reproach. History does not pardon wicked princes so easily as do people. Ivau IV . » For blstors- of intercourse between Russia and England, iiufc ■ British Factory and Chapel.' J 8 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I. died in 1584, having governed the Russian nation for a longer period tlnn any other sovereign, namely, fifty-one years.' ° ^ Theodore I., who nscendetl the throne after his death, and was a feeble twl'If "f °^ f","?' ^'"^ '" ^'^^- «'^ ''"^<='=^^°^ «'^« Boris GcSunof hs ^ile s brother, who, like our own Richard, compassed the death of his nephe v uj nasty ol J{uriU, which during seven centuries had wielded the Russim S hi imrT""^ T'\ 'if t<^'' "=»""^ "" '^'"''^ «f civil ^^lamti^s! nfrfnl- Jn l"''!''''''!"- '0 tbe throne arose in the person of a Russian monk. I his man assumed the characeer of the murdered Dmitri and alter &ri's in r'fi M '•'' ^'""?"'^ *'" ^^-'"^ "»'' "'^^ ^'-^'-^ks of the Don, me' ±ioris in the field, remained master of it, and in the siace of one year seat«l tffl ""t,"'" ■'^'"""'- Nor was this civil war the only c° amirv M comt?v ^ I '"™ 'J'r' '"" ^ "■"'"'' ^''■'•' "-^^ flevastated the Capital of a country It ,s related that, driven by the jangs of hunger, instances oc- curred of mothers having first slain an,i then oate^i their own children and Ks recorded that a woman, in her extremity, seized with he tee"li 'the flesh ot her son, whom she carried in her arms Others con fess id tha tl e v lad entrappe.1 into their dwellings, and subsequently kilrf aid eae7 three men successively. One hundred and twen v-seven tl oimnd con ses remained for some days in tlie streets unburied, and were aftmvard^ tn terred in the fields, exclusive of those wliich had' been pr lu J nrf«nn the our hundred churches of the city. An evewit iicss relate, that h^ awful visitation carried off 500,000 persons fVom the deitev^^itd capital, the jiopulation of whicli was al the time augmented by lirfltx of strangers During this drea.lful cal.amity, Boris, wUh iustifi.able violence hilt L"'X'" °''"'""'' ^'""' ''^■"™'= ''^^''^1"^-'. ""J I'ad thrco™ sow'at Serfdom w.as institute.! during tlie reign of Boris Godunof. By his advice a decree was issued on the 24th Nov. 1597, a year previous to the feth ol Iheodore, forbidding peasants to leave the lands on which that dato should liiid them. This was the first enactment that bound he ,",!Lantry firmly to he so, Earlier ti-aces of their attachment are, i s tr^e ?o te found in the middle of the 13th cent,, during the Tartar dominion when a census was aken, in 1257, in order to secure the regular coUec ion of taxes. The inhabitants of towns and villages were the,rforW,Men to leave he mrAuions'^T^h"""' '"^^ "" f"-'™" '"'"^^ "» ^y -Icgrees of ,"stri ttng tion Z^\f ^!"' ;■'"'"' l«l'»l''^""» 'o tl'e commencement or termina- tion ot the agricultural season. The custom was legalized in 1497 nd confirmed by John IV in 1550; bnt the full and final attac Iment of the hustan,lm,an to the soil was not consummated until the close ^f the 16th Jnterminable and inexplicable troubles, a second false Dmitri, and other Bussia. 1. — Historical Notice. impostors, led, after the short rei^n of Shiiiski (1605-1606), to the occupa- tion of Moscow by the Poles, in 1610, who entered the city with Vladislaus, son of Sigismund King of Poland, elected to the throne by the boyars, on condition that he should embrace the Greek religion. 'J'his gave great offence to the national feelinpr, andMinin, a citizen of Xijni-Novgorod, called his countrymen to arms, and entreated the boyar Pojarski to take the com- mand. Tliis he did without reluctance, and his army was quickly increased by tlie arrival of trooj^s and money from various towns, and by the Cossiscks and Streltsi, who flocked to his banner. Thus strengthened, they Uiiiiched to Yaroslaf, and afterwards to Moscow, to which tlRy laid siege, carried the Kitai Gorod by assault, and made a fearful slaughter of the Poles, when the occupants of the Kremlin, driven to the last extremity by famine, surrendered, and Vladislaus abandoned the country. In 1613, after the flight of Vladislaus, the States-General, convoked by the boyars and militar}^ chiefs, proceeded to elect as their Tsar Michael Romanoff, the son of the Metropolitan of Eostof, who was at the time only sixteen years of age. He was j^roclaimed Tsar of all the Pussias, without the title of Autocrat, enjoyed by the Sovereigns after John III., and the Act of Election stipulated many important rights to the people. Civil strife and foreign wars continued after the accession of Michael ; and that in which the Tsar was involved with Gustavus Adolphus was terminated, not much to the advantage of Russia, through the mediation of England, France, and Holland. A treaty was signed by the belligerent parties on the 26tli of January, 1616, which gave to Sweden Jngria, Carelia, Livonia, and Esthonia, the Russians retaining Novgorod. The Poles were at that time masters of Smolensk, and lavaged the country up to the walls of Moscow, against which they made a night attack, but were repulsed ; they remained, however, in possession of Smolensk, after sustaining a siege of two years. Dragoons arc mentioned for the first time in this reign, as fonuing part of a Pius.sian army, and the Tsar was assisted in his wars by both German and French troops ; these regiments served him as models lor the organization of the Russian army, which was further improved by the discipline introduced by Scottish oflicors. After a reign distinguislied by an enlightened policy and virtuous habits, the Tsar died in July, 1645, at the age of forty-nine years. His son Alexis, who was a prince of a mild and benevolent disposition, succeeded liim. The chief events of his reign were the rnarauding expeditions of the Cossacks of the Don, led by Stenka Razin, a rebellion in the city of Astra- khan, and the apjiearance of another Pretender, who was brought cajitive to Moscow, and put to a violent and cruel death. In this reign shijiwrights came over from Holland and England, and a Dutclnuan named Butler built a vessel called the Eagle, at Dedinova, a village on the Oka river, near the mouth of the !Moskva. This was the first shij) that the Russians had seen built on scientific principles. The Tsar Alexis directed his attention to legal reforms, and his reign is most remarkable for the improvements whicli he introduced. The States-General, a body composed of delegates horn all clas.ses, and first summoned in 1550, after the sup]iression of the old Vech6 or Wittcnagemotes, were convoked in 1648, for the compilation of a new B 3 10 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I. code of laws. Little Russia and Picd Ilussia (Galicia), conquered by Ca- simir the Great in the 14th century, submittcil to Alexis. An account of his quarrel with the Patriarch Nicon, and of the origin of dissent in the Russian Church, will be read in Route 6. Alexis died in 167G, and was succeeded by his son Theodore III., who died young in 1GS2. During the short period allotted him for the exercise of power he evinced every disjx)- sition to carry out his father's })lans ; he directed his attention to the im- provement of the laws, and rendered justice accessible to all, and, in the words of a Russian historian, " lived the joy and delight of his people, and died amidst their sighs and tears. On the day of his death Moscow was in the same distress that Rome was on the death of Titus." The sovereignty of the Cossacks was secured to Russia in this reign. Theodore left no chil- dren, and named no successor, expecting, no doubt, that his own brother Ivan would succeed him. That prince, however, was both mentally and physically incapable of holding the reins of government, and, in conse- quence, his sister Sophia was intrusted with the affairs of state by the Streltsi, who had arrogated to themselves the power of the Prastorian bands, and decided that the Tsar's half-brother, Peter, afterwards the Great, the son of Natalia, Alexis's second wife, should share the throne with him. The two boys were therefore crowned together by the Patriarch on the 15th of June, 1682, but Sophia actually reigned. Subsequently to this the Prince Khovanski, leader of the Streltsi, not only neglecting to cultivate the princess's friendship, but allowing her to perceive that he and his men watched her proceedings, she determined upon his ruin, which was further hastened by the intrigue of his known enemy, Miloslavski. This boyar accused him, in a public placard, of having, with his son and his Streltsi, conspired to effect the death of the two Tsars and the destruction of the family of Romanoff; and, under this accusation, Khovanski and his son were seized and beheaded. Their followers, at first furious at Khovanski's death, afterwards becoming disheartened at the preparations made to resist and punish them, proceeded to the monastery of the Troitsa, and made their submission to Natalia and the Tsars, who had fled there for refuge. Subsequently Sophia still contrived, with the assistance of her Minister, Galitzin, to govern Russia, until she affronted Peter, who retired to the town of Kolomna, to which place he was followed by a large party ; and soon after this, being informed that the Streltsi were again in revolt, under Sophia's influence, Natalia once more removed him to the fortified walls of the Troitsa. It was in vain that Sophia disclaimed this accusation. Peter neither believed her nor forgave her ; and, failing in her attempt to reach Poland, she was incarcerated in a monastery for the rest of her life. This princess was, considering the times in which she lived, a woman of extraordinary taste and literary acquirements, A tragedy, written by her when she was involved in state intrigues, and apparently absorbed in poli- tical turmoil, is still preserved. On Peter's return from the 'Proitsa to Moscow, his brother resigned to him his share in the government, and in 1G89 lie became sole Tsar, being, at this time, only seventeen years of age. Ivan survived till 1696. The ruling passion of Peter the Great was a desire to extend his empire and consolidate his power ; and accordingly, his first act was to make war Eussia. 1. — Historical Notice, 11 on the Turks, an undertaking which was at the outset imprudently con- ducted, and consequently unsuccessful ; he lost 30,000 men before Azoff, and did not obtain permanent possession of the town till the year 1699, and then by an armistice. In the following year he was defeated at Narva by an inferior force, under Charles XII., then only a boy of seventeen ; and on many other occasions the Russians suffered severe checks and reverses. But at length the indomitable perseverance of Peter prevailed. St. Petersburg was founded in 1703, under the circumstances detailed in the description of the city. In 1705 he carried Narva, the scene of his former defeat, by assault ; and two years after, by the crowning victory of Poltava, where he showed the qualities of an able general, he sealed the fate of his gallant and eccentric adversary, and that of the nation over which he ruled. In 1711 Peter once more took the field against the Turks ; but his troops were badly •j-trovisioned, and, having led them into a very disadvantageous position near the Pruth, he was reduced to propose a peace, one of the conditions of which was that the King of Sweden should be permitted to return to his own country. From this period to 1718 he was constantly occupied in jmr- suing with vigour the plans which he had originated for extending the fronUers of his kingdom towards the sea ; and in 1718 he drove the Swedes out of Finland, made several descents upon the coast near Stockholm, destroyed whole towns, and finally, in 1721, by the peace of Nystadt, re- tained' Esthonia, Livonia, Ingria, a part of Carelia and Finland, as well as the islands of Dago, Moen, Oescl, &c. Having now no enemy on this side, he turned his arms eastward, and took Derbcnd, on the Caspian, in 1724 — We have said that the Tsar's ruling passion was to extend his empire and consolidate his power, but he likewise jjossessed in an eminent degree a ])ersevering mind and a resolute will, which bid defiance to' alf difficulties. By the assistance of his foreign officers he succeeded in forming and bringing into a high state of discipline a large army ; he found 'no Russia without a fishing-smack, and bequeathed to her a navy, to which that of Sweden, long established and highly efficient, lowered her flag ; he built Petersburg, which may be said to float upon the waters of the Nsva ; he caused canals and other works of public utility to be constructed in various parts of the empire, endowed colleges and univer- sities, and established commercial relations with China and almost every other nation on the globe. The Tsar likewise possessed the capability of enduring privation and bodily fatigue to an almost incredible extent, and seemed to act upon the idea that by his own personal exertions and the versatility of his genius he could accomplish for Russia that which it had taken centuries to eflect in other countries, and fancied he could infuse int\> her citizens an immediate appreciation of the mechanical and polite arts, as well as a taste for those things which are seen only in an advanced stage of civilization. Peter devoted his whole attention and energies to this theory, and, though he could not compass impossibilities, he was enabled, by the uncontrolled exercise of iho imperial will and inexhaustible re- sources, to effect a most extraordinary and rapid change in the political and 12 1. — Histmcal Notice, Sect. I. physical condition of his country. The States-General were no more summoned. The Tsar now reigned alone, without even the old Chamber or Council of Boyars, that had existed throu^^h so many previous reigns. In their place he founded the Senate, or High Court of Justice, which is ])reserved to this day. His system of administration was founded on the Swedish Collegiate Institutions. Dissent from the Church was very much increased by his reforms, which even included the shaving of beards. The opponents of the ritual of Nicon styled him the Antichrist. The manual dexteritv and mechanical knowledge of Peter were great. Against the expressed wish of his boyars and the clergy, who thought it an irreligious act, he left Russia to make himself acquainted with the arts and inventions of other European nations, and worked with an adze in their ])rincipal dockyards — he not only built, but sailed his own boat, which is still to be seen in St. Petersburg, as are specimens of his engraving, turning, and carpenter's work. He rose at four, at six he was either in the senate or the admiralty, and his subjects must have believed that he had the gift of ubiquity, so many and various were his occupations. He had also the virtue of economy, a quality rarely seen in a sovereign. He even found time for literature, and translated several works into Russian ; amongst these was the * Architecture ' of Lcclerc, and the * Art of Con- structing Dams and Mills' by Sturm ; these MSS. are preserved. During the Tsar's visit to London he was much gazed at by the populace, and on one occasion was upset by a porter who j^ushed against him with his load, when Lord Carmarthen, fearing there would be a pugilistic encounter, turned angrily to the man, and said, " Don't you know that this is the TsarV" "Tsar!" replied the man, with his tongue in his cheek, "we are all Tsars liere." Sauntering one day into Westminster Hall with the same nobleman, when it was, as usual, alive with wigs and gowns, Peter asked, who these peoj)le might be, and, when informed that they were lawyers, nothing could exceed his astonishment. "Lawyers!" he said; ** why, I have but two in all my dominions, and I believe I shall hang one of them the moment I get home." His vices were such as to have been expected in a man of his violent temperament, desjiotic in a barbarous country, and who in early life had been surrounded by llatterers and dis- solute associates. But it would be foreign to the imrpose of this work to enter into a discussion of this nature. The Russians date their civilization from his reign ; but a slight glance at the history of some of the early Tsars will show that, in many of the points on whicli the greatness of his reputation rests, he was anticipated by his ])redecessors. Dark and savage as the history of the country is, an attempt at public education had been made, religious toleration and an anxiety to promote commerce existed, and the institution of a code of laws had already occui)ied attention. 'Iho untimely deaths of some of these princes deprived Russia of monarchs far more benevolent than Peter, men of finer and more generous minds, and, though not so ambitious, quite as anxious for her welfare. Under their sway no such rush at improvement would have been made ; no such influx of foreigners would have taken place ; but, if not so rapidly, at least as surely these sovereigns would have effected quite as mucii real good. Peter left no code of laws established on the broad principles of justice ; he Russia. 1. — Historical Notice. 13 travelled in England and Holland, but thought only of their navies, and wholly overlooked the great principles of their government, by which he might have ameliorate^d the condition of his own. Trial by jury never appears to have attracted his attention. Tlie Tsar, it is true, reigned over a nation of serfs— so did Alfred, and in the 9th, instead of the 18th century. The death of liis son Alexis, in the fortress of St. Petersburg, whether by violence or from the effects of torture, is an indelible blot on his character. The unhappy Tsarevitch was opposed to his father's reforms, and fled his dominions. Liduced by Peter to return to Russia, he was thrown into a dungeon, where he suddenly died, after a cross examination, conducted by the Tsar in person, and a frequent api)lication of torture. The l^npress Catherine survived Peter only two yeai-s, dying at the age of thirty-nine. The reduction of the capitation tax was the most popular act of her short reign, and Delille, Baer, and the Bernouillis were the most distinguished members of the Academy of Sciences which Peter had left her to open. Peter, the son of Alexis, and grandson of Peter the Great (by his first wife Eudoxia, who survived Catherine), died of the smallpox at the age of fifteen ; in him the male line of the Romanofis became extinct. His intellect was good, and, though so young, lie gave sreat jjromise of being an honour and a blessing to his country. Anne, Duchess of Courland, who succeeded this youthful sovereign, was daughter of Ivan, half-brother of Peter the Great; she died in 1740, after reign- ing ten years. Her chief merit was in advancing the commerce of the country, and establishing silk and woollen manufactories— her chief folly, the building of a palaceof ice, to which she sent one of her bufioons and his wife to pass the night of their wedding-day, the nuptial couch being also constructed of that' cold material, as well as all the furniture, and the four cannons which fired several rounds. The Duchess of Courland was elected to the throne by the nobles, who caused her to subscribe to a constitution or charter, of which the principal points were that— " Without the advice of the council, rendered irre- movable, the sovereign could neither declare war nor make peace ; nor could he choose a successor, appoint to the higher offices of state, or impose new taxes. The sovereign was not to punish the gentry, either corporally or by the infliction of fines, without submitting their off'ences to the or- dinary courts of justice." The empress availed herself of the discord which soon reigned in her council to re-establish the absolutism she had surrendered. A sham revolution was organized by exciting the jealousy of the inferior nobility, and by acting on the ignorance of the lower classes. A populace having assembled in front of the palace, and asked to see the empress, she pointed out to Prince Dolgorukof, the High Chancellor, that the i^eople were desirous that she should govern like her ancestors. " What," she asked, "have you said in your Constitution?" Taking the Charter' from the trembling hand of the i)rince, she tore it into pieces before the applauding multitude. Her favourite, Biren, Duke of Courland, caused all the members of the Dolgoruki faction to be either broken on the wheel or banished to the mines of Siberia for ever. A war which was prosecuted against tlie Turks in this reign ended to 14 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I. the'disad vantage of Russia, and, as tho price of peace, AzofF, Otchakof, and Moldavia were given up to the Porte. Intrigues drove Ivan VI., the infant son of the Princess of Brunswick, niece of the Emi)ress Anne, from the throne, and in 1741, Elizabetli, daughter of Peter the Great, took possession of it. Ivan was lirst imjjrisoned in a monastery, but, liaving attempted to escape, was removed to the Castle of SchlUsselburg, where ho was put to death. The reign of Elizabeth was one scries of wars and intrigues, and wholly unfiivourable to the intellectual improvement and progress of the people. The Swedes thought this a favourable moment to recover their ancient possessions, but were obliged to agree to a peace on the basis of that of Nystadt. Detesting Frederic for some coarse remark levelled at her mother, Elizabeth made war with Prussia, which lasted from 1753 to 1762, the year of her death. The taste of this emj^ress for architecture greatly con- tributed to embellish St. Petersburg, and the Academy of Fine Arts in that capital was instituted by her ; but she was a model of hypocrisy, and, wlrile from feelings of pretended humanity she abolished ca})ital punish- ments and deplored the miseries her troops suffered in the u.^r with Prussia, she established a kind of Star Chamber, in which justice and mercy were unknown. Peter III., son of the Princess Anne, eldest daughter of Peter the Great, succeeded Elizabeth, and, being a great friend of Frederic, he immediately made peace with Prussia ; he also suppressed the secret council established for the examination of political offenders, softened the rigour of military discipline, permitted his nobles to travel, lowered the duties in the Livonian ports, reduced the \mcc of salt, and abated the ]>ressure of usury by the establishment of a loan bank, and instituted other salutary and wise measures. He was, however, of a. weak and vacillating disposition, and his tastes were entirely German, which amounted to a crime in the eyes of the nobility ; this and the intrigues of his wife, afterwards the l^mpress Catherine II., whom he grossly neglected, led to his downfall, and he died by sutfocation at Poi)sha in 1762. The reign of Catlierine II. is one of the most remarkable in Russian history. In the early part of it she interfered in the affairs of Poland, which produced a civil war, and ended in the conquest of that country. In 1769 the Turks declared war, which was at first favourable to their arms ; they were afterwards defeated with great slaughter on the Dniester, and abandoned Khotin. At this period was fought the celebrated action before Tchesme, in wliich the Turkish fleet was completely destroyed, an achievement that was mainly owing to the gallant conduct of Admirals Elphinstone and Greig, and Lieutenant Dugdale, Englishmen in the Russian service. In another campaign the Russians carried the lines of Perecop, defended by 57,000 Turks and Tartars, and thus obtained pos- session of the Crimea, while Rumiantsoff gained several victories in the Danubian provinces, 'i'hese conquests were, however, dearly ] purchased ; the plague passed from the Turks into the Piussian armies, and the frightful malady was carried by the troops into the very heart of the country ; 800 persons died daily at ^loscow, and the disease subsided only with the Russia. 1. — Historical Notice, 15 severity of the winter. It was in this year that the Kalmuck Tartars, who liad been upwards of half a centmy settled near the step]ies of the Volga, north of Astrakhan, suddenly, and to the number of 350,000 souls, left the Russian territory for their old haunts on the Chinese border — an affront offered to them by the empress is said to have been the cause ,of this extraordinary flight. Every attempt at negotiation having failed, the contest with the Turks was renewed in 1773; and though the Russians again suffered severe losses, liumiantsoff brought the war to a successful termination ; and, by the treaty of peace concluded in 1 774, his country obtained the free navigation of the Euxine, the cession of Kinbuni, Yenikale, with a tract between the Bug, the Dnieper, and Taganrog. Russia restored her other conquests, and the Turks paid into the Russian Treasury 4,000,000 of rubles towards the expenses of the war ; they also acknow- ledged the independence of the Crimea, which in the year 1784 fell alto- gether into the hands of Russia, as well as the island of Taman and part of the Kuban. Shortly after this, Catherine and the northern courts, with France, jealous of British maritime power, brought about a combination against England, which was hastened by the following singular incident. The British minister, fearing that this intrigue was going on, desired Potemkin to lay before the empress a memorial that he had drawn up, which the prince promised to do. Of this memorial the French governess of his nieces contrived to possess herself, and, after allowing the French minister to make his notes in refutation of it in the margin, replaced it in Po- temkin's pocket, who, ignorant of the circumstance, laid it before Catherine ; when the empress, conceiving the notes to have been made by her favourite, formed a league with Sweden and Denmark, and announced her intention of sup})orting it with her navy. In 1787 she made, in com- pany with Potemkin and an immense suite, her famous progress to the Crimea, and the following year found her once more at war with the Turks. Finland was invaded by Gustavus III. soon after. This contest was settled by a pacification in 1790. In the close of that year Constantinople trembled at the forward movement of the Russians, and the fall of Ismail under Suwaroff, after the ninth assault, closed the war on the 22nd of December. In this extremity Europe combined to save the Porte from destruction, and in 179x Russia relinquished all the territory she had acquired, excepting that guaranteed by the treaty of 1784. In these wars with the Ottoman Empire there were destroyed 130,000 Austrians, 200,000 Piussians, and 370,000 'J urks, in all 660,000 men. About this time the intrigues of Russia, Austria, and Prussia, for the partition of Poland, com- menced, and, carried on for several years, were brought to a conclusion by two sieges of Warsaw ; in the first Kosciusko was made prisoner, and in the second the Poles, luiassistcd by his genius, gave way in that fearful assault which, on the 9tli November, 1794, consummated the ruin of Poland as a nation. Catherine's subsequent j^lans of aggrandisement in Daghestan and on the shores of the Caspian were cut short by her death, on the 9th November, 1796. The great talents for governing which the empress possessed are universally admitted ; and, though her energies were ])rii!cipally displayed in carrying out her schemes of foreign conquest, she by no means neglected the interior economy of her empire. Iler views on IG 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I. all subjects were far more enlarged than those of her predecessors, and upwards of 68C0 children were educated at St. Petersburg at the public expense. She invited Pallas, Eiiler, and Gmelin to survey her terri- tories and describe their cliaracteristics, and requested D'Alembert to undertake the education of her grandson, the Grand Duke Alexander, which he declined. The empress also confirmed the abolition of the secret state inquisition, and, by dividing the administrative colleges of the empire into separate departments, facilitated the despatch of business, and rendered the administration in each more eflicient. With a view to check corrup- tion, she raised the salaries of the government officers, put down many monopolies of the crown, and issued an ukaz, which ])revented any pro- prietor from sending his serfs to the mines, or to any distant part of the empire, except for agricultural i)ur]!Oses. She ])urchascd tlie j)r{iises of the French ])ljiloso])hers, corresponded with Voltaire and D'Alembert, and complimented Fox by asking him for his bust, which she placed between those of Cicero and Demosthenes. Catherine came to the tlirone eager for fame and anxious to put into practice the philosophic doctrines of the age. It may even be said that she was desirous of reigning constitutionally as far as serfage would permit her. But she was most anxious to be a lawgiver, and her more liberal of composed of 565 deputies from the nobility, the inhabitants of towns, the military colonies, and the foreign races subject to the empire, as well as from the senate, tlie synofl, and other ]mblic oflices. This Commission — a Par- liament all but in name— met on the 31st July, 17G7, at Moscow, and, after listening to the representations made by the several interests, drew up the drafts of laws which Catherine subsequentlv enacted, and which contributed greatly to the glory of lier reign. Put "the Assembly having commenced an inquiry into the evil of serfdom, the empress dissolved it on the 29th December of the same year. The p:nii)ress Catherine introduced im]wtant changes into the condition of the nobility and clergy. The history of these may be here ejiitomi/cd. The C()mrades, or drujina, of the early'princes of Pussia long retained a nomadic character. They jassod iVom one prince to another as those princes ascended in the scale of i>rimogenituro and passed on to the throne of Kief. They acquired no lands, and lived on the contributions which they levied on the Zemstvo, or " jieoplc of the land," as distinguished frOm the servants of the sovereign. On the establishment of the throne of Muscovy, the drujina of the dei^osed princes re]iaired to ^Toscow for em- ployment in the service of the State, and styled themselves bondsmen of the Tsar. At his court they quarrelled peri)etuallv*about the rii^ht of ]^rc- cedence. Each family guarded jealously its position in relation to other families ; and each individual above the condition of a labourer had an hereditary nglit, most intricately regulated, to a certain social position, which he spent his whole life in asserting. The nobles having become unruly during the reign of John the Terrible, that sovereign ]mt to death a considerable imniber of liis servants, and kept the rest in subordination with a new class Russia. 1. — Historical Notice, 17 of nobles, the Opritchna, who carried out his instructions wuth unsparing brutality. They murdered their victims openly in the streets, and, led by the Tsar, visited villages during the night and razed them to the ground. It was with the assistance of these servants that John IV. subjected all his lieges to despotic government. The old boyars deserted to the Prince of Lithuania, and many were caught and punished. After that reicjn the older fomilies succeeded in causing Shiuski, one of their order, to be elected Tsar : but on the accession of Michael Roman ofit" all their privile<^es were abolished, and the coele of 1649, drawn up by the States-General, or Zemstvo, rendered all subjects equal before the law. a'he nobles, however, now began to acquire lands, which they at first hold as feudatories under the Crown, liable to military service. Peter the Great converted those lands into freeholds, and at the same time bound the proprietors to perpetual service. The Senate called up the young boyars from the country, and allotted civil and military functions to them. In 1736 the period of service Avas reduced to 25 years, and in 1701 the nobles were allowed the discretion of serving the State or not. As every nobleman had been oblicred to serve, so every man that served the Crown acquired nobility through his chin, or official rank. The nobility are still styled "courtiers" in the Russian lan- guage, and a chinovnik is always a nobleman. An imix)rtant feature in the social life of Russia is that the right of primogeniture does not exist, except in a few great families. By an ukaz of 1713, Peter I. desired to introduce an inheritance in fee of the eldest son, but this was so much opix)sed to the customs and traditions of the people that it was abandoned. Peter II. cancelled the ukaz in 1728. ^ Under the predecessors of Catherine the courtiers had assumed a con- siderable amount of power, and now demanded a better position in the State. Catherine II. granted them a charter in 1785, by which the nobles of each province were formed into a corporation, wuth the power of electing judges and various rural officers. They moreover acquired the right ol" meeting triennially for the discussion of their wants and interests. A property qualification and official rank were required of the members of these assemblies, who were exempted from corporal punishment, com- jmlsory service, and ]:)ersonal taxation. They had already acquired in 1754 the exclusive right of holding serfs. The Emperor Paul annulled this charter, but it was restored by Alexander I. The vicissitudes of the clergy have been as follows. In ancient Russia they enjoyai many special privileges and the right of administering justice on all Church lands. John IV. prohibited the attachment of land to churches, and sought to make the Metropolitan dependent on his will. The patriarchate was established under his son, but abolished by Peter, who, warned by the example of Nicon, substituted the Holy Synod. The present metropolitans have ecclesiastical jurisdiction only within their several bishoprics or provinces, and are subject to the Synod. Peter tlie Great considerably limited the power of the clergy. He converted the monasteries into hospitals, and filled them with soldiers. ]\Ionks were not 18 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I. allowed the use of ink in order that tliey might not publish libels, and the clergy generally were made amenable to the civil law. Peter the Great also'' established a scale of fees, to which, in the rei^n of Nicholas were added reizular salaries, the village priest receiving 70 rubles per annum (lOZ.), and his clerk 30 rubles (4?. 10s.), in addition to a glebe of 33 dessi- atinas (about 85 acres). The churches in towns likewise possess houses and other real property, which pay no taxes, but their j^riests receive no salaries from the State. Catherine 11. took away the serfs and lands held by the monasteries. They had acquired no fewer than' 900,000 male serfs ; the Troitsa monastery alone possessing 100,000. In return, she freed the monks from the liability of quartering troops, from corporal punishment, and from compulsory service. Some of the monasteries were jilaced in direct de- pendence on the Holy Synod, and others were left under the control of the several bishops, who were, however, disqualified from dejiriving a priest of his holy office without the decision of the Synod. The inhabitants of towns were much improved in their condition under Catherine II. They were not anciently distinct from the agricultural popu- lation, and the town lands were held by private individuals. The Tsar Alexis however declared that those lands belonged to the Crown. Peter the Great gave tliem special courts of law, and generally promoted the welfare of the mercantile classes; the Empress Catherine gave them a charter in 1785, on the model of the nobility charter, with the right of electing mayors and magistrates. The merchants were divided into guilds, and obtained an exclusive privilege of trade. Nothing was, however, done during her reign to remove the evils of serfdom ; on the contrary, alanned at the"' readiness with which the peasantry joined a formidable insurrection under Pugatchef, the empress placed them still more under the control of the landed proprietors, who were then invested with judicial and executive powers. Catherine, possessed of great beauty in her youth, preserved the traces of it to the end of her life; in matters of religion she' was tolerant from political motives, extravagant in an extraordinary degree, and, with a woman's liberality, paid well those who served her; and, though there are many acts in her reign which cannot be defended, she did more for the civilization of Paissia than any of her ])redecessors. She was succeeded by her son Paul, whose short reign, to 1801, was not of any great historical importance. At his coronation he decreed a law of hereditary succession to the crown in the male line, and afterwards in the female, instead of leaving it to the caprice of the reigning Tsar. The emperor declared war against the French in 1799, sent an army into Italy to oppose the repu- blican generals, and through the intervention of England, Suwaroff, who had been banished from the capital by Paul, was recalled, and placed at the head of it. But the campaign in Italy, successful at first, ended un- favourably to the Ptussian arms — when the emperor suddenly became a great admirer of Bonaparte ; and, with the same inconsistency that exiled Suwaroft", he liberated Kosciusko; subsequently the eccentricity of his actions led to the conclusion that he was of unsound mind. Amongst his ukazes was one against the use of shoe-strings and round hats ; and in the Kussia, 1. — Historical Notice, 19 number of his eccentricities was a rage for painting, with the most glaring colours, the watch-boxes, bridges, and gates throughout the empire. The career of Paul was closed in March, 1801, in a similar manner to that of Peter III., at the castle of St. Petersburg, where he then resided. Alexander, his eldest son, succeeded to the throne, being then 24 years of age. In the same year he recalled the Siberian exiles, sup- ])ressed the secret inquisition, re-established the power of the senate, founded in 1804 the University of Kharkoff, and emancipated the Jews. In 1805 the emperor joined the Northern Powers against France, and on the 2nd December the Austro-Russian army was defeated at Austerlitz. In 180G, Mr. Fox having failed in negotiating a peace between France and liussia. Napoleon overran Prussia, and, Benningsen having evacuated Warsaw, IMurat entered that city on the 28th November. On the 26th December the French were beaten at Pultowsk, and in February, 1807, the severely contested battle of p]ylau was fought, each side having three times lost and won, the deciding move being made by Benningsen'^ who took Konigsberg by assault. On the 28th of May Dantzig capitulated to the French, and on the 14th of June they won the battle of Friedland; ten days after, Napoleon and Alexander met on a raft moored in the middle of the Niemcn, and concluded an armistice, which was a prelude to the treaty of 'Pilsit, concluded on the 27th July of the same year. Alex- ander by this act became the ally of France, which enabled the French to carry on their aggressive ix)licy in Spain. But the injury inflicted on Piussian commerce by Napoleon's continental system against England, and his interference with Alexander's conquests in Finland in 1809, roused that sovereign to a sense of his true interests. He broke with France, and the invasion of Kussia by the French was the consequence. To prepare for and carry on his defence against this, the emperor made peace with the Porte, and re-established his alliance with Great Britain. The operations which took jilace during this memorable struggle are so well known that they will only be briefly adverted to here. On the 23rd of June, 1812, the French crossed the Niemen and pushed on to Wilna, the liussians carefully retreating, and leaving Napoleon to pass that river on the 28th, and enter the town unopposed. Here the French emperor remained 18 daj's, and then, after considerable ma- noeuvring, marched on Vitepsk, where Jie fully expected to bring the Kus- sians, under Barclay de Tolly, to action. The liussian general, however, declined ; and Napoleon, instead of following the adviceof his marshals, and wintering on theDwina, crossed the Dnieper and marched on Smolensk. On the IGth of August he was once more in front of the Bussian grand army near that town ; but the wary and intelligent De Tolly had occupied it only to cover the flight of its inhabitants, and carry off or destroy its magazines; and on the following morning Napoleon, to his great mortifica- tion, learnt tliat the enemy, in pursuance of his Fabian tactics, was again off. Smolensk was now taken by assault, the last inhabitants that remained having set fire to it before they left. Up to this time the Russian Com- mander-in-Chief had been able to adhere to his plan of drawing the 20 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I. French into the country without riskinoj a .general engagement until a favourable opportunity should occur— tactics which were not liked by his army ; and Alexander, yielding to the clamour, a]->pointcd Kutusoflf to the command. The battle of Borodino, sometimes called that of the Moskva, fought on the 1st of September, was the result of this change of leaders. The combatants amounted on either side to about 120,000, and the killed and wounded in both to about 80,000. On the 12th Bonaparte again moved forward, his troops by this time nearly famished, and heartily tired of the war, for the dav of Borodino had given them a clear idea that the enemy would yield only after a desiderate struggle. On Sunday the 13th the Russian army marclicd out of the old capital, with silent drums and colours furled, bv the Kolomna Gate, and left the city to its fate. In the afternoon of IVIonday the advanced guard of the French army caught the first view of her golden minarets and starry domes, and the Kremlin burst upon their sight. " All this is yours," cried Napoleon, when he first gazed ujiou the goal of his ambition, and a shout of " Moscow! Moscow !" was taken up by the foremost ranks, and carried to the rear of his army. In Moscow they bivouacked the same evening. Ere the night had closed in, their leader arrived at the Smolensko Gate, and then learnt, to his astonishment, that 300,000 inhabitants had fled, and that the only Russians who remained in the city were the convicts who had been liberated from the gaols, a few of the rabble, and those who were unable to leave it. On Tuesday, the 15th September, the mortified victor entered Moscow, and took up his residence in the Kremlin ; but here his stay was destined to be short indeed, for on the morning of the 16th it was discovered that a fire, which had at first given but little cause for alarm, could not be re- strained—limned bv the wind, it spread rapidly, and consumed the best portion of the city. " The churches," says Labaume, " though covered with iron and lead, were destroyed, and with them those graceful steeples which we had seen the niglit before resplendent in the setting sun ; the hospitals, too, which contained more than 20,000 wounded, soon began to burn — a harrowing and dreadful spectacle— and almost all these poor wretches perished!" A few who still survived were seen crawling, half- burnt, amongst the smoking ruins, while others were groaning under heaps of dead bodies, endeavouriiig in vain to extricate themselves. The con- fusion and tumult which ensued when the work of pillage commenced cannot be conceived. Soldiers, sutlers, galley-slaves, and prostitutes, were seen running through the streets, penetrating into the deserted palaces, and carrying away everything that could gratify their avarice. Some clothed themselves in rich stuffs,^ silks, and costly furs; others dressed themselves in women's pelisses ; and even the galley-slaves concealed their rags under the most splendid court dresses ; the rest crowded to the cellars, and, forcing open the doors, drank the wine and carried off an immense booty. This horrible pillage was not confined to the deserted houses alone, but extended to the few which were inhabited, and soon the eagerness and wantonness of the plunderers caused devastations which almost equalled those occasioned by the conflagration. " Palaces and temples," writes Karamzin, " monuments of art and miracles of luxury, the remains of past ii^cs and those which had been the creation of yesterday, the tombs of Russia, 1. — Historical Notice. 21 ancestors and the nursery cradles of the present generation, were indiscri- minately destroyed ; nothing was left of Moscow save the remembrance of the city, and the deexj resolution to avenge its fate." On the 20th Napoleon returned to the Kremlin from the Palace of Petrofski, to which he had retired, and soon tried to negotiate with Kutusofi*, who re[»lied that no treaty could be entered into so long as a foreigner re- mained within the frontier. The Emperor then requested that he would forward a letter to Alexander. "I will do that," said the Ihissian general, *' provided the word jteace is not in the letter." To a third pro]iosition, Kutusoff re})lied that it was not the time to treat or enter into an armistice, as the Russians were just about to open the campaign. At length, on the 19th of October, after a stay of 34 days, Napoleon left Moscow with his army, consisting of 120,000 men and 550 pieces of cannon, a vast amount of plunder, and a countless host of camp followers. And now the picture of the advance was to be reversed. Murat was defeated at Malo-Yaro- slavets on the 24th, and an unsuccessful stand was made at Viasma on the 3rd of November. On the 6th a winter jjeculiarly early and severe, even for Russia, set in — the thermometer sank 18° — the wind blew furiously — and the soldiers, vainly struggling with the eddying snow, which drove against them with the violence of a whirlwind, could no longer distinguish their road, and, falling into the ditches by the side, there found a grave. Others crawled on, badly clothed, with nothing to eat or drink, frost-bitten, and groaning with pain. Discipline disappeared — the soldier no longer obeyed his officer ; disbanded, the troops spread themselves right and left in search of food, and as the horses fell, fought for their mangled carcases, and devoured them raw ; many remained by the dying embers of the bivouac fires, and, as these expired, an insensibility crept over them which soon became the sleep of death. On the 9th of November Napoleon reached Smolensk, and remained till the 15th, when he set out forKrasnoe'. From this time to the 2()th and 27th, when the French crossed the Beresina, all was utter and hopeless confusion ; and in the passage of that river the wretched remnant of their once-powerful army was nearly annihilated — the exact extent of their loss was never known, but a Russian account states that 36,000 bodies were found in the river alone, and burnt after the thaw. On the 5th of December Napoleon deserted the survivors. On the 10th he reached Warsaw, and on the night of the 18tli his capital and the Tuileries. The army that had so well and enthusiastically served him was disposed of as follows : — Slain in fight 125,000 Died from fatigue, Imnger, and the seventy of the climate 132,000 Prisoners 193,000 450,000 The remains of the grand army wliich escaped the general wreck (inde- pendently of the two auxiliary armies of Austria and Prussia, which knew little of the horrors of the retreat) was about 40,000 men, of whom it is said scarcely 10,000 were Frenchmen. Thus ended the greatest military 22 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I. catastrophe that ever befell an army in either ancient or motlern times. To return to Napoleon. Europe was now exasperated, and combined ucijainst him ; and thou2;h in the foUowinLi; sprin^i;" he ,e strengthened by Todlel^en, and ordered Admiral Kor- niloflf to sink his squadron in the road- stead. On the 23vd the Allies reached the Katcha and encamped there, with- out finding the enemy as they had expected. On the 24th they bivouacked near Belbek. Meanwhile Prince Men- schikoff had quitted Sevastopol in the night, to proceed with his army to Bakhchisarai by the Mackenzie read, leaving only 16,569 fighting men in garrison, and losing some carriages with baggage and ammunition on the plain. Gen. Todleben is of opinion that neither the exaltation of the Russian troops, nor their resolution to fight to the last, would have been able to save Sevastopol if the Allies had attacked it immediately after the pas- sage of the Tchernaya. However that may be, the Allies moved on the 26th September towards the east, in the direction of Mackenzie's farm, and suc- cessfully accomplished the manoeuvre of transferring the army from the N. to the S. side of Sevastopol. On the 26th Balaclava harbour was occupied. Sevastopol was attacked by sea and by land on the 17th October. The Light Cavalry charge of Balaclava was made on the 25th October ; out of 607 men only 198 re- turned. While the siege was progressing large reinforcements were pour- ing into the Russian camp. The Russians attacked the English positions in front of Inkermann on the 5th November, but were compelled to retreat. ' The following account of the battle of Inkermann is likewise condensed from Lieut.-Col. Hamley's ' Story of the Campaign of Sebastopol ;' — During the night of the 4-5tli of November the Russians had assembled in force in the valley of the Tchernaya between Inkermann and the harbour. The object of their enterprise, accord- ing to General Tcxileben, was to drive back the right wing of the besiegers and take firm possession of the ground occupied by them between the town and the shore. A force of 18,929 men and 38 guns was to start at six in the nwming for * Careening Bay,' and to be joined by another body of 15,806 men and 96 guns passing over the bridge of Inkermann. On their junction they were to be under the command of General Dannenbcrg; while Prince Gortschakoflf, with 22,444 men and 88 guns, was to support the attack and endeavour to eflect a di- version. This plan was not entirely carried out, for the body of 18,929 men proceeded to a different side of the ravine from that originally con- templated, and thus prevented the meditated junction. i2u8«a- 1868. At dawn they made their rush upon the advanced posts of the second di- vision posted on the crest looking down into the valley, and which fell back fighting upon the camp behind the crest, 1200 yards in rear. The out- posts being driven in, the hill was occupied by the enemy's artillery and guns of position, which commenced a heavy fire dow^n the face of the gentle declivity, crashing through the tents left standing below. Captain Allix, of General Evans's staff, was dashed from his saddle, not far from his own tent, by a round shot, and fell dead. The plan of the Russians was, after sweeping the r'dge clear by their heavy concentrated fire, to launch some of their columns over it, while others, diverging to their left after crossing the marsh, were to have passed round the edge of the cliffs opposite Inkermann, and turned the British right. The artillery tire had not continued long before the rush of infantry was made. Crowds of G 26 1 . — Historical Not ice. Sect. I. skirinishei's ndvancing tliroii;;li the ' Coppice came on in spite of the case- sliot, and passed within the British line, forcing the artillery to limber up and retire down the slope. Two com- panies of the 55th, lying down behind u small bank of earth, retreated as the Russians leapt over it, firing as they went back, and halted on a French i*egiment that was marcliing up the hill. The Russians retreated in their turn, and the French, with General Pennefathcr riding in front, went gal- lantly down the slope under the tremen- dous fire, driving the enemy before them. Almost sinniltaneously with this attack on the centre, a body of Russians had passed round the edge of the cliff, and met the Guards there, wlio had thrown themselves into a two- gun battery on the edge of the slope opposite the ruins of the old castle, ^*th the Grenadiers extending to the right, the Fusiliers to the left, of the battery, and the Coldstrcams across the slope towards the British centre. The Russians cam^ on in groat num- bers with extraordinary determination. The Guards, having exhausted their ammunition, attacked the Russians witli the bayonet, and, after losing nearly half their number, were com- pelled to retire, but, being reinforced, returned and drove the enemy out of the battery. Four of the gunsof Townsend's bat- tery of the fourth division, which came up at the left of the jiosition, were taken by the Russians almost as soon as unlimbered, but some of the 88th and 49th retook them before they had been many seconds in the enemy's hands. In all these attacks on the Jiritish right, the Russians were pre- vented from turning that fiank by Codrington's brigade of the light di- vision postetl on the further bank of the ravine. "When the Russian infan- try was driven back, a cannonade re- comrnenced along their whole line, to which the British guns replied warm- ly, tliough overmatched in metal and numbers. The ships in the harbour, and the battery at the Round Tower, also threw shot and shell on the slope. This cannonade was the preface to anolher infantry attack, which now again threatened the British right, at that moment absolutely without de- fence. By advancing resolutely the enemy would have turned it, but the men wlio had retreated from the low entrenchment already spoken of ral- lied and lay down under it. Then reinforcements arrived for the support of the remnant of the defenders of the 2-gun battery. These fresh troops at once charged the enemy, routed them, and pursued them to the very verge of the heights, when, returning victori- ous, they found the battery, as they repassed it, again occupied by Rus- sians, a fresh force of w^hom had mounted the cliff from the valley. It was while collecting his men to meet this new and unexpected foe that Sir George Cathcart was shot dead. At this juncture the remainder of Bosquet's division came upon the right, and, passing at once over the crest, threw themselves into the combat, and, fighting side by side with the British troops, pressed the Russians back, A tremendous cannonade was now again opened by the Russians, and replied to by English and French bat- teries of artillery and two IS-pounders ordered up by Lord Raglan. Between these two opposing fires of artillery, a fierce desultory combat of skirmishers went on in the coppice. Regiments and divisions, French and English, were here mixed, and fought hand to hand with the common enemy. About noon the fire of the Russians slackened, and further French reinforcements took up a position on the hill. The battle was now prolonged only by the efforts of the Russian artillery to cover the rct treat of their foiled and broken bat- talions. At three o'clock the French and English generals, with their staffs, passed along the crest of the disputed hill, and half an hour after the whole force of the enemy retired across the Tchernaya. Until the arrival of the fourth division and the French, the ground was held by about 5000 British troops, presenting a thin and scattered line, while the body of Russians immedi- ately opposed to them was, according liussi la. 1. — Historical Notice. 27 to General Todleben, 15,000 strong. In all, 8000 English and 6000 French were engaged. The total Russian force, estimated by Lord Raglan at 60,000, is put down by General Todleben at 34,835, of whom 6 generals, 256 offi- cers, and 10,467 rank and file were put hors de combat — more than double the loss of the Allies. The loss of the battle is attributed by General Todle- ben to the want of simultaneity in the ! advance of the Russians (owing to ] conflicting arrangements in starting I from Sevastopol), the superiority of I the French and English small-arms, { and the omission of the Russian ar- tillery to follow and support their infantry. Large trenches were dug on the ground for the dead ; the Russians lay apart-, the French and English ' were ranged side by side. A hurricane destroyed a great amount of shipping in the Black Sea on tlie 14tli November, causing the Allies to suffer considerably from the want of supplies. General Todleben now assumed with much success tlie direction of the defences of Sevastopol, and soon gained great renown ; the Allies in the mean while were' repulsed in a naval attack on Petropavlofski, in the Pacific. In 1855 Sardinia joined the Allies with a contingent of 15,000 men. On the 17th February the Russians made a formidable attack on Eujiatoria, defended by the Turks under Omer Paslia and by a French detachment, but were obliged to retire with great loss ; the intelligence of the repulse reached the Emj^ror Nicholas but a few days before his death, which took place very unexiiectedly on the 2nd March. A conference was soon after opened at Vienna with the object of concluding 2)eace, but after sitting six weeks it was dissolved without any satisfactory result. The war, however, was being actively prosecuted. ^The second bombardment of Sevastopol was opened at daybreak of the 9tli April, 1855, and produced no decisive result. The third bombardment commenced on the 6th June, and was followed next day by successful attacks on the Mamelon and Quarries. General Liprandi having attempted to raise the siege, the battle of the Tchernaya was fought on the 16th August, and resulted in the complete success of the French and Sardinian troops engaged in it. On the 5th September an " infernal fire " was opened by the Allies and kept up until the 8th, when the French stormed the Malakoff and the English the Iiedan, which was, however, abandoned after an unequal contest of nearly two hours. The French loss on that day amounted to 1489 killed, 4259 wounded, and 1400 missing; and the English to 385 killed, 1886 wounded, and 176 missing; the Russians, according to their own account, losing 2684 killed, 7243 wounded, and 1763 missing. The south side of Sevastopol being no longer tenable, the town was evacuated during the night; the magazines were exploded, the fortifications blown up, and the ships in the harbour sunk. The Allies took jwsscssion of the ruins next day. The operations of the Anglo-French squadron in the Baltic consisted, in 1854, of a reconnaissance otr Cronstadt by Sir Charles Napier, and a boat action at Gamle Karbely, in the Gulf of Finland, when the paddlebox-boat of the * Vulture' drifted on shore and became a prize. The flag of this boat is shown at St. Petersburg, l)eing, together with that of the * Tiger's ' boat, the only English colours preserved in Russia as military trophies. The forts of Bomarsund, on the Aland Islands, were captured on the 15th July, 1854, by a French force of 10,000 men and a small contingent of English marines and seamen. In 1855 the Baltic fleet bombarded Sveaborg and cruised off Cronstadt, under c 2 28 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I. the command of Admiral Dundas and Admiral Penaud. The war in Asia terminated with the surrender of Kars to General Mouravieff. By the intervention of Austria, preliminaries of peace were agreed upon at a meeting of plenii>otentiaries at Paris on the 26th February, 1850, and peace was signed on the 30th March and ratified on the 27th April following. By that treaty the territorial integrity and the independence of the Ottoman empire were recognised and guaranteed. Bussia and Turkey mutually agreed not to keep in the Black Sea more than six steam-vessels, of 800 tons at the maximum, and four light steam or sailing vessels, not exceeding 200 tons. The navigation of the Danube was opened to the vessels of all nations, and the Bussian frontier in Bessarabia was rectified. No exclusive protection over the principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia was in future to be admitted ; and in case of the internal tranquillity of the principalities being menaced, no armed intervention can take place without the general sanction of the contracting Bowers. The Emperor Alexander II. was crowned at Moscow on the 7th September, 1856. His accession was marked by the introduction of vast reforms in the administration. Corruption was prosecuted and punished. The army was reduced to the lowest limits compatible with the dignity and safety of the country, and the term of military service was shortened. Bailways were projected and commenced, and commercial and industrial enterprise of every kind was liberally promoted in view of restoring the prosperity of the empire, much impaired by the war. Overtrading, however, induced by an artificial encouragement, added its disastrous effects to financial embarrassment, and assisted in depreciating the currency of the country, no longer metallic. Kew loans were made, and a system of financial publicity was adopted. But the most glorious monument of the reign of the Emperor Alexander II. will ever be the eniancipation of the serfs. Their manumission had been frequently contemplated. The delegates in Catherine II. 's parliament had suggested it ; Alexander I. had counsellors who ardently desired to see its abolition, and even the Emperor JSicholas had contemplated a more mitigated form of personal bondage. In 1838 a section of the nobility petitioned for its entire abolition. In 1852 the Minister of the Interior actually drew up a plan of gradual emancipation, which was to have been carried into execution in the spring of 1854. In 1859, the nobility of the province of Lithuania having ofiered to free their serfs, the Emperor Alexander II. convoked a commission at St. Petersburg, which was charged with the preparation of an act of general emancipation. This was pro- claimed on the 3rd March, 1861, when all the serfs (about 23 millions) acquired personal liberty and civil rights. A period of two years was allowed for the appropriation of land to the peasants, who have acquired the " perpetual usufruct" of the houses and plots of ground which they occupied at the time of emancipation ; the allotments of land being, how- ever, circumscribed by a scale which varied according to the locality and quality of the soil. The compulsory appropriation to each i)easant varied from a minimum of 1 dessiatiua (2^ acres) to a maximum of 12 dcs^iiatinas in the steppe districts. In the central parts of Bussia the extent of the allotments was, on an average, about 4 dessiatinas (10 acres) to each pea- sant. Beyond this, the enfranchised serf is permitted to acquire additional lands on terras of nmtual agreement with the landed proprietors. Those Russia. 1. — Historical Notice, 29 terms were regulated by a body of officials, called " Arbitrators of the Peace." who drew up and registered the deeds of sale or lease. The Government in such cases advanced the purchase-money to the peasant by the issue of redemption-bonds, bearing 5 per cent, interest, and is refunded by a series of payments extending over a certain number of years. The comnmnes being responsible, as corporations, to the State for such repayments, their members are circumscribed in their liberty of locomo- tion until they have paid their share of the heavy liability incurred. It is calculated that the Government will have advanced 300 millions of rubles in these transactions, by which each peasant is enabled to become an independent and considerable landed proprietor. The larger estates of the nobles are in the mean while to a great extent deprived of agricultural labour, and are being very generally thrown out of cultivation or partially farmed out to the peasantry. In the ancient provinces of Poland, since the insurrection which broke out in Poland and Lithuania in 1863, the ])roprietors are forced by ukaz to cede such portions of additional lands ns the i)easants may desire to purchase ; but the measure has not been applied to Bussia Proper. The emancipation was carried out peaceably, with only a few partial agrarian outbreaks, produced chiefly by erroneous interpretations ot the law. Among the many other im])ortant reforms wliich followed the Act of Emancipation we may signalise the introduction of new courts of law on the basis of oi)en trial by jury, which came into operation at ISIoscow and St. Petersburg during the course of 1865, and in other parts of the empire later. Corjx)ral punishment was abolished in 1863, and the penalty of death is now only inflicted on the sentences of courts-martial in cases of incen- diarism and other crimes requiring special measures of repression. The knut has entirely disa])peared as an instrument of punishment. The dis- abilities of the Jews have been removed ; the commerce of the country, although still retarded in its development by one of the worst Customs Tarifls in Europe, has been relieved of many op])ressive regulations, and thrown open to natives and foreigners alike ; municipal charters have been conferred on St. Petersljurgand Moscow ; the liberty of speech and thought denied under the i>revious reign may now be fully exercised, except in the form of public meetings for political purposes; and the censorslii]iof the ])ress has been reduced to a mitigated form. Public instruction is being vigor- ously ]nirsued, and education brought within the reach of the humblest. The Universities and superior schools have been remodelled and deprived of their once semi-military character. A classical system of education is being promoted, and the clergy are being raised socially and intellectually. These, and many other wise reforms of the Em[)eror Alexander II., too numerous and complex here to be specified, form, as it were, the basis of those Bej^re- sentative Institutions with which the edifice of government will sooner cr later be crowned. Among the events in Bussian history that have occurred since 1865 may be mentioned the attempt on the life of the Emperor by KarakozoflP on the 4.16th April, 1866 ; the marriage of the Tsesarevitch Alexander with the Princess Dagmar, sister of the Princess of Wales, and the visit to Bussia of H.B.H. the Prince of Wales, on the occasion of the marriage, in November, 1866 ; and the second dastardly attack on the Emperor at Paris, by Bere- 30 2. — Statistics. Sect. I. zowski, in June, 1867. His Imperial Majesty was invested with the Order of the Garter by Earl Vane on the 16-28th July, 1867. in 1866 a squadron was sent out by the Government of the U. S. of America, with Mr. Fox as envoy, to convey to H. I. M. the cono^ratulations of the people of the United States on his escape from assassination. This complimentary mission was preceded by tlie visit of Mr. Atkinson, Mayor of Hull, who delivered to H. I. ;M. an address on the same occasion, from the Town Council and Chamber of Commerce of KiDgston-upon-HuU. 2. — Statistics. The Area and Population of the Russian Empire are shown in the fol- lowing Table taken from the Report of the Central Statistical Committeo for 1858. Sq. Geog. Miles. Population'. Male. Female. Total. Russia in Europe . . Caucasus Russia in Asia Kingdom of Poland . . Grand Duchy of Finland . . 90,134 8,034 202,746 2,258 6.870 29,307,422 2,247,172 2,103,099 2,298.113 818,274 29.903,330 2.001,348 2,007,839 2,406.333 818,275 59,330,752 4,308,520 4,230,938 4,704,446 1,030,549 Total .. .. 370,042 or 7,770,882 Eng. sq. in. 36,894,080 37,377,125 74,271,205 It will be seen that the population of Russia is very unequally distri- buted, being at the rate of 706 inhab. to the sq. m. in European Russia, 524 inhab. in the Lieutenancy of the Caucasus, 16 in Asiatic Russia • while Poland has 2110 inhab. to the sq. m., and Finland 238. ' In Russia Proper (about 59 millions) the population professing the Russo- Greek religion numbers about 51 millions ; the Dissenters are estimated at about 802,000. The Roman Catholics form a total of 3 millions, the Protestants 2 millions, the Jews If million, the Mahomedans 2 millions and Idolaters about 200,000. The class of nobles, including Government functionaries, is estimated at nearly 900,000; the clergy at 611,000; the inhab. of towns at 4,700,000; the military (including families) at 4 mil- lions ; and the peasantry at 49i millions. The foreigners residing in Rus- sia, irrespective of those who have taken the oath of allegiance to the Emperor, number 86,611. Eussia. 2. — Statistics. 31 The Budget for 18G7 anticipated the following revenue and expendi- ture : — 1, Revenue : Direct taxes .52 J million roubles. Indirect taxes 174| Duties and stamps 12f Royalties (post and telegraph , &c.) 17^ State domains 03 Miscellaneous receipts 4O4- Revenue of the Transcaucasus . . 3f Portion of Budget of Poland .. 16^ Total ordinary revenue .. 387 millions (53^7. mill, at 33iZ.). Extraordinary revenue (loans) . . 40f Special receipts 16 Grand totol of revenue 443| millions (617. mill.). This Revenue was to have been expended as follows in 18G7 : — Public debt, repayment of, and interest 73f million roubles. Superior State Departments 1^ ,, „ Cliurch, pay of Clergy, &c 6^ ,, „ Imperial Household (Civil List) .... 9 „ „ Foreign Affairs 2^ ,, „ Army 120^ ,, „ Navy 10^ ,, „ Finance Department— Cost of collecting taxes; pensions, &c 05 J ,, „ State domains 7 ,, „ Home Office 15f „ ,, Public Instruction 7i „ „ Public Works 22^ „ „ Posts and telegraphs 14 J ,, „ Justice ^i 9> ?> Audit Office l| ,, ?» Imperial studs OJ ,, ,, Poland 20 „ „ Transcaucasus 4f ,, „ Total ordinary expenditure . . :{98 J million roubles (5437. mill). Extraordinary expenditure — Construction of railways 25^ „ „ Special expenditure 16 ,, „ Anticipated deficit in receipts .... 4 „ „ Grand total of expenditure . . 443.f million roubles, From an account of the actual appropriation of the votes taken on the Budgets, published in 1866, for the period between 1832 and 1861, it is apparent that the yearly deficits between the revenue and the expendi-. 32 3. — Language. Sect. I. ture of tlie Ihissian Empire arc very considerable. The following are the deficits oiricially shown since 1853 : — 1853 51 million rouhlcs. }8?! 123i „ IS--^^ 201^ „ 1850 205^ „ 1857 38J 1858 5 1859 55 " 18(J0 511 " 18G1 il " But the financial expedients to which the Russian Government have had recourse between 1862 and 18GG, in order to cover the difterence between the ordinary revenue and the ^ross expenditure, show that the actual deficits for the last five years have not been much under 100 million roubles per annum (about 14 millions sterlinjx). liussia is divided in matters of education into six districts, with gym- nasia and schools, frequented by 1,155,773 scholars. In 18(50 the number of scliolars in village, parochial, and national schools amounted to 928,000. 3. — Language. The "Russian lanpjuage belongs to the south-east group of Slavic languages, to which belong also tlic Bulgarian language (with its obsolete dialect,' the ancient or ecclesiastical Slavonian, now the liturgic language of all tlie Slavonian-speaking followers of the Eastern Churcir) and'^the" Serbian or Illyric, with its numerous dialects spoken throughout a great part of 1 urkey, and to a considerable extent in the empire of Austria ; while the north-west group of the same family comprehends the Polish, Bohemian, and Lusatian languages, with their dialects. 'J'he Bussian language presents three dialects— the Little Bussian, which is s])oken in the^sou'th-west provinces of Bussia (Volhynia, Kief, Chernigov, Poltava, Kharkof, ])art ofVoronej Ekaterinoslaf, Kherson, the Taurida, Podolia, and part of Bessarabia) ; the White Piussian dialect, spoken in the provinces of Mohilef and Minsk, in the greater part of those of Vitepsk, Grodno, and Bialostok, and in a small part of the province of Vilna ; finally, the Great Bussian or Bussian proj^er, which is the official and literary language, as also that of a large majority of the ])opulation. The total of the Slavonian-speaking population amounts to 55,000,000, of which more than 35,000,000 use the Great Bussian dialect. The difterence between these three dialects, however, is not so great as to prevent the people sjjeaking the Little Bussian or the White Bussian from imerfectly conversant with the language. The Bussians have an alphabet different from that used in the rest of Euro|>e. The invention of this alphabet (which is called KirilUtsa) is attri- buted to St. Cyril and Methodius, who lived in the 9th cewty., and are con- sidered as the principal apostles of the Christian faith among the Slavonian tribes, and who translated the Holy Scriptures, or at least some parts of them, into their native language ; for which purpose they are said to have composed an alphabet, or rather to have adapted the Greek alphabet, with the addition of a certain number of new characters for such sounds as were peculiar to the Slavonian language, and for such as they found no signs in the Greek alphabet. These characters are now only used in printing devotional books. The characters in general use were introduced by Peter the Great ; they are the same Cyrillian alphabet, with the omission of a few unnecessary letters, and somewhat remodelled so as to resemble more closely the forms of the Latin characters. The sounds of the thirty-six letters of which the Bussian alphabet is composed arc given below in English characters. Throughout this work Bussian sounds, absent in the English language, have been rendered by a simple combination of I'higlish letters, to be pronounced as in the Italian language : a as in /«r, e as «, i as ee, u as oo. A a a, has the sound of a in far. U 6 be 5> b bav. It B ve' »» V vale. r r ge >» <>• pay. A A de »> d day. K e e »» e met. Hi :i: .F 5» z azure. 3 3 ze >» z zeal. n n 1 »» e me. ii ii 1 n y coy. I i 1 ?> a me. K K ka ?> k keen. .1 j 1 ?> 1 lay. li M ni »» in may. W II n }> n nay. j» () open. 11 u P >» P pay. p p r »» r ray. c c s »» s say. T T,rn t »» t tay. c 3 34 3, — Language, Sect. I* Russia, 8. — Language, 35 y X U H y * X U H lU m m m }>I u b b II f kha tse che sha stcha yer has no sound- » >» »» » » 00 book. f fat. h aspirated, ts in its. ch chain, sh shade, sch discharge, -a semi-vowel. 3 9 K) K) a 11 Y V yery has something like the sound of o in hie, die. yer has no sound — a semi-vowel used to soften consonants. J^ > have the sound of a in any, u unit, yam. feet, mo (seldom used). ya i » 99 n r Tlie following: are a few words and phrases whicli the traveller may find Ufieful, if pronounced according to the sounds given above.* The Emperor The Empress The Crown Piince A Grand Duke A piince A count A noble Sir or Mr. The head of a village An employe A peasant Ditto The police A blacksmith A drosky or sledge- driver A coachman A postihou A waiter A porter A water-carrier A foreijrner Chief city A town A street A cross-street A square A market A row of shops A shop A quay A giteway Outer door } Tsar, Tsaritsa. Tsesareiitch. Veliki Kniaz. Kniaz. Graf. Dvorijanin. Gospodin. Starosta. Chinovnih. Krestianin, Mujili, Folitsia. Kusnets. IsvostcJuJ:. Kutscher. Yainschih. Cheloveh. Dcorni/,'. Vodovos. Inostranets. Stolitsa. Gorod. Ulitsa. Pereuloh. Ploschad. Ilinok. lUad. Lufha. Naberejnaya, Vorota. Podyezd, An ishmd A garden A Held A cathedral A church A belfry A cemetery Altar-screea A monastery A palace An hotel A restaurant A room at an inn A dress injj loom A ladies' rooui A house A courtyard A villa A room A chemist's The parade-ground A barrack A foit A bridge A river A village A road A hill The bath-house A post or railway station The Great Bazaar { } Ostrof. Sad. Pole. Subor. Tserhof. Koloholnia. Kladbishche, Ikonostas, Monastir. Dcorets. Gostinnitsa. '■'' Pestoran" or Trahiir. Nomer. llbornaya, Dainshaya. Dom. Dior. Dacha, Komnata. Apteka. PlatZ'parad. Kazarina. Krepost or " Fort.'* Mod. Peka. Derevnia. Doroga. Gora. Bania. Stantsia. Gostinnoi-Dcor. • The best Russian vocabulary ts Cornet's. Relff's ' Manual of the Russian Language; and Heard s ' Kussuui Grammar/ may likewise be consulted. The best dictionaiy is Keilfs. The Exchange Birja. Wine The Embassy Posolstvo. Coin brandy English Ambassador Anglishi Posol. Beer English Consul Angliski Consul. Coftee American ^Minister ( Amcricansky Pos- \ lannik. Tea Sugar American Consul I Anicricanshy Con- 1 sul. Water A glass of water To write Pissat. Hot water Paj)er Bumdga. Cold water Ink Chernila. Salt Pen Pero. Pepper Pencil Karandash. Vinegar To eat Knsshat. Mustard To drink Pit. A trunk To breakfast Zavtrakat. Portmanteau Breakfast Zavtrah. Travelling-bag To dine Obedat. Box or case Dinner Obed. A tea-urn To sup Ujinat. A tea-pot Supper Ujin. A pail A portion Portsia. A bottle Soup Sap. A glass An ice Morojennoye. A cup Cabbage soup Stchi. A wine-crlass Pie Piroy. A plate A roast Jarkoe. A knife Beef Goviadina. A ibrk Veal Teliatina. A spoon Mutton Baranina. A tiible Cutlets " Cotelettes." Abed Beefsteak *' Bifstek." Sheets Fish Py^ya. Pillow case Ham Vet china. An utensil A fowl Kiiritsa. A stove A chicken Tseplenok, Fire A hare Zniets. A candle A partridge Karapaika, ^Matches Hazel -grouse (2e- trao bonasia) '\ Riahcldh. A napkin A duster Pdack cock Teterha. A hat Capercailzie Glnkhar. A fur cloak Potatoes Kartoffel. An overcoat Peas Gorohh. A coat Cucumbers Oyurtsi. Trousers Pears Grushi. A pair of boots Apples Yabloki. A bath Nuts Orekhi. A basin White bread Bely-khlcb. A towel Black bread Chorni'khleh. Soap Pancakes Blinni. A dressing-gown Cheese Syr. Wasiierwoman Butter Maslo. A boat Eggs Yditsi. A carriage Cream Slifki. A cart Milk Moloko. A wheel Vina. Vodi:J. Pico. , Koffe. ^ Chai. Sahnr. Vodii. Stakan vodl. Goridchci vodi. Holodnoi vodi, Sol. Perets, Uksus. Gorchitsa. Sunduk. Cheniodan. Meshok. Yaschik. Samovar, Chainik. Vcdro. Butilka. Stakan. Chashka. Piumha. Tarelka, Nojik. Vilka. Loshka, Stol. Postel. Prostiny. Kavolotchha, Gorshok. Pctchka. Ogon. Svetchka. Spitchki. Salfetka. Triapka, Shliapa, Shuba. Paletot, Surtnk. Pantalony, Sapogi. Vaaiia. Umicalnik, Polotenzo. Mylo. Khalat. Pratchka, Lod'ta. Kareta. Telega. Kolesso. 36 The pole The wooden aicli' over the horse's head in a diojky or sledge, A cord An axe A ship A steamer Dishlo, Diifja. 3. — Language. Ice Half A quarter Great Little A railway i Fast or express train ^ A liorse Horses Hay Straw A book A snow-storm Ven'ov/:a. Topor. Korab. Puroliod. Jelesmuja, Dorogn^ or Mashlmi. Pospcshni/fOvPotch- tovy (Post) iV yczd. Zoshad. Loshadi. Seno. Soloina. Kniija, ViiKja, or Meicl. Beautiful Old New Father Mother Brother Sister Wife Husband Ocitcli, or ecitch J'avlovitch. Ovruty or evna, Feodorovna, (fern. Sect. I. Liod. Polovina. Chdvert. j!(>/shoi\ Midoi. j J'l'ekrassnoi Staroi (fem. -oi/a), A'oroi (fem. -aija). Otets. Mat. Bnd. Sestra, Jena. Miij. , son of — as Pavel (Paul), daurrhter of— as Feodor. »5 ' Dialogues. I am an Englishman I am an American. I do not speak Iluss. Where does the ^nierican ^''^"^'^'^ reside ? W^here is the English Church? Good day. Good ni^ht. Good bye. Yes No Good, very well Not good, not well Biiiig For lilore Less That Enough Not enono;h Too Ions: Give Give me Give us Now It cannot be done Do better If you please. Thank you. Who is there ? Here, hree, sir. I'^a Anijiichanin. ' Va Aniericanets. Nc govoria po nissl-i. r, ■, . .... Anglisku ^ Ode lie tot , ,' Consul? '' Amencansky Gd^ Aiujlishvja Tscrkofi Sdravstvuitc. ' Fob ray a 7iotch. Proatchaite. Fa. Net. J/orosho. Ne horosho. Prinesi. Flin. Fstcho. JMeushe. Ftto. Focolno. Ne dovohio. Otchen Folgo. Fat. Fai nine. Faite nam. Tipper. Nelzia. Zdelai hdche. Pojahista. BliUjodariu — Spassibo. Khto tarn i Sdess. w: Where are m A cl Kussia. Come here. HoHoI here. I come directly. 1 hear and oljey. Directly. 1 oots? .•lothes ? Give soap. Let us go (on foot). Let us go (in a cairiage). Go on. Drive gently. Never mind, or no'.hing. Hurry quick. Drive faster. Have a care. Give room, give place. To the right. To tiie left. Go further on. Drive home. Stop. Tell me. What is it ? How do they call it? What does it cost ? How much the arsiiin ? How much the pound ? It is dear. It is much. It is cheap. Can you give change ? I don't know. Not wanted. I won't liave. Is it ready ? Set the tea-urn. (Jive us a si)Oun. What's to be done. What's o'clock ? It is 1 o'clock. It is 2 „ It is 3 „ It is 4 „ It is 5 „ Have you a room ? Empty that. Cle.ui that. Dry that. In how many houi-s ? Is it possible ? Where is the inn? How many versts? Where is the landlord ? 3. — Language. 37 Pajdi sud'. Poslushi. Seichas pridu. Sli'b/iaiu. Seichas. Gde ^'^^•/\- Splat jje ! Fa'i iiiylo. J'oideni. J'oedem. Poshol. Tishe. Nicheho, SLorei. Poshol skorei. Beregiss. I'adi, padi. Na pravo. Ka leco. J^oshol dahlte. Foiaoi. Stoi. SkdjUe-mne. Chto tahoei Kah zaviiti Chto stoit 1 Sholho stoit. Potchoin arshin i Potchoin funt i Eto dorogo. Kto mnogo. Fechevo {dioshcco). ,'oet of eminence, whose odes and other lyrics, although not free from the rhetorical bombast which was then held to be poetry, present many flashes of a genius powerful and truly poetic, and wliich will save his works from oblivion, notwithstanding their many defects. Satire and comedy were the only kinds of literature at that time, and these, although strictly imitative in their forms, were of some originality as to their contents. The comedies of Von-Wisin, those of the Empress Catherine II., the satirical essays of Novikof and his imitators, the fables of Khemnitzer, are until now read with pleasure as interesting illustrations of the manners and ideas of their cix)ch. Von-Wisiivs comedy of *The Minor' still appears on the stage from time to time. A new period in the literature of Kussia begins with Karamzin. In one sense he may be called the continuator of Lomonossof s reforms, for, while he still more strictly separated the vernacular Kussian from the Slavonian language, he also banished the heavy Latin phraseology introduced by Lomonossof, and replaced it by the more simple and natural construction of modern languages. He thus created in Kussia an elegant literary style adapted to the wants of modern civilization. On the other hand, he abandoned the pomix)Us rhetoric of his predecessors, and introduced the sentimentxality which was in such vogue in Europe at the end of the eighteenth and in the beginning of the present century. By his periodicals, 42 4. — Literature. Sect. I. in which ho imblished his ' Letters of a Traveller ' (a lively and brilliant description of his tour through Europe), sentimental tales, original as well as translations, and popular scientific and critical essays, he more than any other writer contributed to spread a taste for reading among the ])ublic. In the task of popularising literature he was much assisted by Dimitrief,^ ^yho did for the language of poetry what Karamzin had done for prose writing. A further step in this^ direction was taken by Krylof, whose flxbles arc equal to any similar productions in other countries, and are justly considered as most ixjrfect models of elegant and idiomatical language. A similar style is met with in Griboyedof's comedy ' Sorrow comes from Wit/ a most telling satire on the society of Moscow, which was greedily read and learnt by heart many years before it was allowed by the censor to appear on the stage or in print. Great inlluence on the literature of Kussia was e:iercised by Jukovski, who, by his masterly translations of some contemporary English and German poets, introduced into Russia the then arising romantic school of poetry. At the same time iMartinof, by liis translations of Greek classics, and especially Guaditch, by his able transla- tion of the * Iliad,* gave to their countrymen a more correct idea of the true character of classical poetr}'-. But the great national poet of Russia is Pushkin. IHs works are very numerous and varied. Alter having been an imitator of Byron in some of his earlier poetical tales (' The Prisoner of the Caucasus,' ' The Fountain of Bakiichisarai,' 'The Gipsies'), he exhiMtcd in his more mature works a truly original and national genius, which fully justified the admiration which is paid to him by his countrymen. His poetical novel (' Evgheni Oneghin'), a tale of a Russian /io??i7?ie blase, offers lively and interesting pictures of provincial and mctroiX)litan life in Russia. His ' Boris Godunof * is a magnificent historical drama, after the model of Shakspere's plays, repre- senting Russia at the highly interesting time of the appearance of the first ialse Demetrius. Among his other works we shall only point out his poem ' Poltava,' some fine dramatic sketches (' The Stone Guest,' * Mozart and Salieri,' 'The Covetous Knight'), and a delicious story in prose, ' The Cap- tain's Daughter,' presenting a picture of provincial life in Paissia at the time of the Pugatchef rebellion. A great number of Pushkin's lyric pieces re- commend themselves as well by vigour of thought and deep feeling as by elegance of style and melody of verse. Lermantof holds the next place after Pushkin in the consideration of his countrymen, and, indeed, althouizh he died before his talent had come to full maturity, the vigour of thought and passion, and the strength of expression, which unite in his poetry with an exquisite harmony of versification, would undoubtedly have gained him a prominent position in any literature. Of otlier modern poets, the most remarkable are Baratinski, Yazikof, Khomiakof, Countess Rostopchin, the peasant poets Koltsof and Nikitin. Among living poets we may mention Maikof, Stcherbina, Nekrassof (a most bitter satirist), Polonski, and Count A. Tolstoi, author of an historical drama, * The Death of John the Terrible,' which has had a great success on the stage. A writer whose |X)pularity and whose influence on the literature of his country are equal, if not even superior, to those of Pushkin, is Gogol, the great humourist of Russia, a man who possessed to a high degree the art, to use his own expression, of " laughing a laugh under which are bitter tears ;" Eussia. 4. — Literature. 43 to analyse " the mud of trifling things with which life is shackled ; to ex- ix)se the triviality and meanness of life and of man," — such is the usual theme of his works, and this theme he realizes with striking truth and inexhaustible humour. His chief works are a comedy, * The Revisor,' which holds permanent possession of the stage, and is considered as the best comedy in the Russian language, and a tale entitled ' The Dead Souls,' of which an English translation has been published. As almost all the modern poets of Russia are more or less indebted to Pushkin, so the influence of Gogol may be traced in a greater or smaller degree in almost all the branches of Russian novel- writing. The modern novel-writers who hold the highest place arc Turguenief, Gontcharof, Pisemski, Dostoievski, and Count A. Tolstoi. The writing of historical novels, which had been quite abandoned for some years, has been resumed by Count A. Tolstoi, who has published an historical romance describing the epoch of John the Terrible, and by Count L. Tolstoi, whose romance entitled 'War and Peace' pur^jorts to represent the social life of Russia during the first quarter of the present century. Of modern comedies those of Ostrovski alone deserve to be mentioned. Scientific literature can be but poor in a country where science has been introduced so recently, and where, until of late years, literature has been under the control of rigorous censors. The histoiy of Russia is almost the only branch of science in which some remarkable original works are to be found. The first, most celebrated historian in Russia is Karamzin, who, in his ' History of the Russian State,' gave for the first time a true work of science and art, and not, as his predecessors Tatischef and Prince Stcher- batof, a crude and clumsy digest of the old chronicles and annals. Not- withstanding the progress made by historical investigation since it was first published, his work is until now not only widely read by the general public, but even studied and considered as a book of reference by every writer on national history. Among the numerous more modern historical writers, we shall only name Polevoi Solovief (Professor at Moscow, whose work is now considered the best history of Russia), Ustrialof (author of a very detailed history of Peter the Great, of which only a few volumes have as yet been published), Kostomarof (author of several historical works on Little Russia before its incorporation with Russia, on the ancient municipal constitutions of Novgorod and Pskof, on the false Demetrius, &c.), Beliayef, Stchapof (author of a good work on the Russian dissenters) ; Miliutin, Minister of War, author of a work on the Italian ciimpaign of Suwarof, and Bogdano- witch (a history of the war of 1812). Until a very recent period, all the other branches of scientific literature were almost exclusively (and even now are to a great extent) supplied by translations from foreign languages. It was in the reign of Catherine II., whose influence on the^'intellectual development of the Russian people was very marked, that translations began to be cultivated. They continued with great activity during the first part of the reign of Alexander I. ; but in the last years of his reign this activity was arrested by a sudden increase of the severity of the censorship, which, far from abating in the reign of Nicholas, grew at last to such a system of censorial terror, that not even the most innocent novel could be translated without considerable mutilations. Under the more liberal system which has been inaugurated during the present reign translations are again published with great activity, '''^'" The 44 5. — Measures, Weujhts, and Coins. Sect. I. works of Macaulay, Buckle, Adam Smith, J. Stuart !Mill, and many other standard English works, may now be read in the Kussian language. The present |x^riod is marked by a cultivation of political writing, most of the intellect of the country being absorbed in administrative reforms. The ix)litical economists and statists form a comparatively small school, but aro nevertheless well known to the scientific societies of Euroi^e. The news- I)ai)crs employ a very considerable number of writers. The foremost journal is the * Moscow Gazette,' with a circulation of about 15,000. The only other newspai)er of any note at Moscow is the * Moscow,' supported by the Panslavist and Protectionist parties. At St. Petersburg each minister of state has his organ. The * Journal de St. Petersbourg' is the mouthpiece of the Imperial Foreign Office. Of the monthly maizazines the most im- jwrtant are the * Moscow Herald,* conducted by Mr. Katkof, and the * Herald of Europe,' conducted by Mr. Stassulevitch. The scientific ])ub- lications of the War Office and Admiralty, and the Pieports of the Minister of Public Instruction, are of high interest. The several scientific societies of Ptussia publish journals, whose valuable contents are almost entirely lost to Western Europe, owing to the language in which they are edited. Although the periodical press is no longer subject to a preventive censor- ship, yet it is far from being free: it is under the control of the Minister of the Interior, and the system of avei'tlssemeuts and siisj^ensions^ which has been borrowed from France, weighs somewhat heavily upon it. dium 12 dium vershok IG vershoks 3 avsliius 500 sajeiis 2400 sq. snjens 5. —Measures, AVeights, and Coins. Measuuks of Length. = 1 inch EllL^ = 0*0254 metre. = 1 foot = 0-3048 »> = 1*75 inch Eng. == 1 arshin = 28 inclics Eng. = 1 sajen or fathom = 7 leet Eng. = 2*1330 metres. (N.B. a nautical sajen has feet). = 1 verst = 0*OG or § mile Eng. = 1*0008 kilom. = 1 desiatina = 2*80 acres Eng. Measures op Capacitv. shtof = I vedro. 8 shtofs = 1 vedro = 3*25 galls, wine, and 2*06 galls, beer measure Eng. 0.1230 hectolitre. garnets 8 garnels 8 chetveriks Drv [Measure. 0*34 peck Eng. 1 chetverik = 2*73 pecks or C8 bushel Eng. 1 chetvert or quarter = 5*40 bushels Eug. Weights.* 1 zolotnik = 2*41 drams avoirdupois = 4205 milligrammes. 96 zolotniks = 1 fimt = 14*43 ozs. avordupois, or 0.40952 kilo. 40 i)ounds = 1 pud = 30*08 lbs. „ „ l6 kilo. 372. 10 puds = 1 berkovets = 360*80 lbs. „ „ 163 „ 720. • The principal wciglits and measures will probably soon be decimalized on the basis of the metrical system. Russia. 5. — Measures, Weights, and Coins, 45 Coins.— The coinage of Taissia is decimal; thus— 100 copecks make 1 ruble. The ruble, of which the standard is silver, contains about 18 grs. of pure silver, and an alloy of about 13 per cent., or 83^ in 96. Its par'^value in English money is 38^cZ., but the rate of exchange has occa- sionally lowered it to 25c?. The only silver money in circulation are pieces of 20, 15, 10, and 5 copecks. The intrinsic value of these coins was reduced by 12 per cent, in 1860. The copper tokens range between 1 and 5 cops. The lower classes, particularly in the interior of Russia, still speak of the "Grivna," an old coin of the value of 10 cop. Thus, "Grivennik" is 10 cop., and " Dvugrivinny " 20 cop. Taken at par the sovereign is worth 6 rs. 28 cops., and the shillmg 31 cops ; but the rate of exchange enhances their nominal value in paper currency. The paper-money in circulation is inconvertible, but has a forced cur- rency. The notes represent 100 rubles ; 50 rs., 25 rs., 10 rs., 5 rs., 3 rs., and 1 ruble, and are plainly stamped with their value. Those recently issued are very elaborate in design, and bear portraits of Kussian sove- reigns. The Treasury Bonds are for 50 rs., and bear 4^ per cent, mtercst. Russian paper-money may now be freely exported and imported.* Example to find the value of 50 rubles Russian money in British sterling, at the rate, say, of 32(?. to the ruble :— liuble. Teiice. Rubles. 1 = 32 X 50 50 12)1600 20)133 4 Answer £6 13 4 or 50?. in Russian rubles at tbe same rate : — Pence. 32 Copecks. 100 X Pence. 12,000 = 100 32)1,200,000(375.00 96 £50 240 224 160 160 uOo Ausicer R. 375.00 Cop. * Travellers will receive the current value of their money in Russian rubles, and vice versa, at the frontier sUlious at Wirballen and Eydkuhnen. It is, however, best to carry only tbe amount strictly requisite, and to keep the rest in circular notes, or with a banker at St. Petersburg or Moscow. 46 5. — Measures, Weights, and Cains, Sect. I. The value of a sovereign in Russian money, at the exchange of Sid., will be found thus : — Pence. 32 Copecks. 100 240 I'ence. 240 20> o (M «* f"** ^ CO ^ g r>C -1 :c 08 CO > •iH II fq o 3 1— H 72 • r- ( o SO e !-«; 'CC f-H ■^ o ^ ^ H r; o ^ 's^ '^^ •cH pi«d 00 •^ ~0 «*< o r*. c -♦-J C ft? <» > r-5: ■^ i^^ e o 1^ :« Qj » h^ ^ •r-l a r>«j> 'Ji r. >^ 'ri so 5 < so 53 "S> O 00 X II o h /— ' 1 2 <1 o ^ O S^ ^ '^l •«>« H ?* •2. SO ^ f«*. ^ ^ Pleasures, Weights, and Coins. 4? • Hn H-J- H-* H-** -4^ ttW- ^!-r ni^ Hf 1 -!m H-t :^ Hn '-'<*^C<100GOO'<*ICOCOO^C-;t>iOCOOOl>OTHCOCOCO CO lO "^ CO (M r-H 'f^ CO CO C^ C^ r-i r-H J— 0. ■^(MOCOOLO COi~l»Hdt-OCOi-l.-tGO->:P 1-1 T-l 1-1 . l> CO O O CO CO CO (M (M 3<1(M >o o »-o o o 48 5. — Measures, Wei(jhts, and Coins, Sect. I. "Russia. 5. — Measures, Weiglits, and Coins. 49 o o as > o • i-t W o -t-> (NCi'^'-*O»-lQ0C0OClCCt^«0i.'5T* -■'^ — '« — I?) i-ltM •^-^pHioi-Hirii-Hu'O'-itO'-i'oor-ioscot^oi.'^cos^'-i Cj I—* T»H T^ T^ ^H r^ 'Z »ciOlO'*^COCOC ^^ ^ r% *^ f^ ^s r» •* ^^ O »0 O O O »0 O i.'ti O >0 O O QC' l> «0 »0 ■*! CO (M ^ COOtO'^TtiC»OCOCCO»OQOOOi-((MCOOOCS "**4OtHO»0O10 ^ ^ I— ( 1— I I-H I-H I— I ^.'^OXCOCCOOClCtiCSCiOO ococot^t>oo t^°^F— (T-HrH I-H rH i-H i-H ^ri'+fHi-Hoo ooooooo •v »^ #v »*»*#>. o o »^ •«• w^ *^ »^ OOOOSQOt^OO-^COC^IrH g-iO O O O iC O O CO C^ rH ^^C5Q0Q0t-l>O l.SSfiJ^ c > < ^ <-! fH PS o , Ph ;h CO o ;h P^ O •4-i • d CO o CO f— 1 C3 II t> • fH o g< I-H © o ,rj Ph OQ rH • rH I-H bO fl w o ■+J fl • I-H 'tZJ o H-> u © > ri o o ^ d P! a • O C3 CO • I-H ^ OO tH d K II © o • I-H u PM HH cS CO ?! CO < .^•^THlOCOCOC^(MC^rHi-HrHOO ig ^rHrHi-HOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 1 « < ^'^t>»OCOOOCOO'CD . i-H rH i-H i-H i-H rH fi c/ -^ rH GO lO N Ol (N CN (M (M !M rH rH rH i-l s- rH rH oo < .is ^'s'ooooo ^trqoocoO'^irHrHO . rH rH d9a^-t^'*"Ot>C0 COCOCO(Mi00irt0i0 0»i00 ^05a5COQOI>l>0iO»0 Ettssia — 18G8. 60 5. — MeasureSy WeightSy and Coins. Sect. I. o a o > •rH o bQ ^ >1 O Cm o o • I— I 3C i Cm O 3 02 • ^ 1 ■ a rl O « ',-1 o ^ = CI CO <* (N (N (N o oooooo ooCO(MC10iCC>CO '^'HrHi— fi-it«iH I— (1— It— I .>.iC'ti(Mi— iCit^OTtlC0i-Hi--^^S'=?^<^'^'=^*^'^"=^ O -t< CO (M i-< Russia. 7. — CuBtom-Jiouses, 51 6. — Passport Regulations. By an ukaz of the 31st December, 1864, foreigners arriving in Russia, eitlier by sea or by land, with passports duly vised at one of the Imperial Embassies, Legations, or Consulates (in London, 32, Great AVinchester- street, City), may reside in any part of liussia, and travel throughout the empire, with the same passport lor the term of 6 months. The"^ passport must be exhibited on arrival to the local authorities (through the hotel- keeper, to avoid inconvenience), who will register it. Should the traveller desire to stay longer than G months, a regular passport for residence must be applied for at the Alien Office. Travellers who have not stayed in lUissia beyond the term of 6 months may leave the empire, by sea or by land, with their national passports, after a second visa by the authorities to the efifect that there is no impediment to their leaving the country. The latter regulation is intended to prevent the absconding of debtors, or of parties in a criminal or civil suit, before the verdict of'^the Court. Obs, — The principal formality which the traveller has therefore to observe is, to have his ]iassport vised by a Russian di])lomatic or consular official. The rule ai)i)lies ecpially to Finland and Poland. The jDassport regulations are now more strictly ap{)lied than ever, particularly at 8t. Petersburg, notwithstanding that in every other country on the Continent the passport system, so obnoxious to the modern traveller, is almost entirely abolished, 'iourists should keep this in mind, for any neglect of the Russian regula- tions is visited with severe discomfort, if with nothing more. 7. — CusTOM-HousEs. Travellers will meet with every civility at the hands of the Russian Custom-house officers. Although tlie tariff is still highly protective, i)ersons evidently travelling for pleasure, and not for the purposes of trade, are very little molested by the search for articles liable to duty. There has hitherto been some difficulty in passing books, maps, guides, and other products of the i)ress, but a recent reguLation permits the introduction of all such l)rinted works as Continental travellers are in the habit of carrying with them, excluding the publications of the Paissian revolutionary press in liondon and elsewhere. Travellers are cautioned against introducing the latter works. Bibles and Prayer-Books are not touched, nor need the Handbook be any longer concealed. When the books are in large parcels, they will be forwarded by the frontier authorities to the Censorship Com- mittee at St. Petersburg, by which they are examined, and ultin:>ately restored to the owner. English and foreign newspapers are not seized, ;is formerly, when used as wrappers. Scaled letters, lottery-tickets, jilaying- cards, and books of an immoral or irreligious tendency, arc liable to seizure. Fire-arms cannot be introduced into Russia and Poland without special licence. Travellers coming to Russia for the purpose of shooting should deliver up their guns to the Customs' authorities, by whom they will be forwarded to the place of destination, there to be applied for on arrival. The proi^er office will be indicated, and a receipt will be given. JRussia.—lSGS. ^ e 52 8. — Postage. Sect. I. The proceedings of Govcmment oflicials are Air stricter in Poland than elsewhere in the Russian dominions, and their searchinc!;s are tedious, both at the frontier and the entrance to Warsaw. The officers are, however, civil and courteous as long as the traveller is so, and a Custom-house officer cannot have much to say to a person whose baggage is confined to his own f)crsonal requisites. NJL — Any well-founded complaints against officers of Customs will be strictly inquired into and redressed by His Excellency the Director of Customs at St. Petersburg, to whom representations should be addressed. 8. — PosTixa. In order to travel ix)3t in Pussia, it is necessary to have a pcxhrojua, or order for horses, in which is inserted the name of the place to which the traveller is going, the distance in versts, and the number of horses required. Tlie cost of the podorojna depends on the number of versts and horses, at a mte which varies from 11 cops, to 5 cops, per horse, according to the locality. This document is obtained from the governor of the town which the trn.veller is leaving, or at an office specially appointed for tlie purpose. On making the a]>plication it is necessary to produce a passport. The greatest eare must be taken of the podorojna, and it should be kept at hand, for it will be required at each post-station as an authority for the ],x)st-masters to furnish horses; and, if mislaid or lost, the unfortunate owner will be obliged to continue his journey with a peasant's horses, subject to all his caprices as to charge, hour of starting, and distance of each day's journey. A table showing the distance from one station to another is hung up in every post-house, frequently a mere liut ; also the charge for each liorse is stated. A book is likewise kept in which travellers may enter their com- plaints. Should any difficulties arise, a request to see this book may have some effect upon the dilatory and extortionate ix)st-n)aster. This official is bound to furnish at least the number of horses ordered in the ix)dorojna ; but he may oblige the traveller to take more if the roads require it, and this he does sometimes to the extent of making him journey with G, and in very bad roads 9 hoi*ses ; he may also, and often does, on the erossr-roads, affirm there are no horses left but those which he is Ixnmd to keep for the mail or Government courier. A little persuasion will however generally secure the requisite number of quadrupeds. The drivers expect a fee of 10 to 20 cops, for the stage, according to its length. This varies greatly, viz. from 12 to 30 versts. Many of the post-masters in the South of Pussia are l^olish Jews, and, though not more rapacious than their Christian brethren of the same trade, are quite as bad. The traveller should take especial care never to travel jx)st just before, or immediately after, a courier or other man in authority. The saving in time and tem|X3r will be considerable if an avant courier is employed when travelling in the steppe. The speed when posting is sometimes great, the horses going ventre a terre; but so much time is lost at the post-houses in changing, that, including stoppages, the traveller will not clear much beyond 8 or 9 miles an hour. If the traveller is not provided with his own carriage, or should he not borrow or hire one at the place of starting, he must content Russia. 9. — Cuisine and Bestatirants. 5a himself with the accommodation afforded by a tdec/a, a small open waggon without springs, but strongly constructed, so as to withstand the roads of the country. The jolting is most painful ; straw, and not unfrequently a bed, is placed in the cart by Pussian travellers. Gathering up his 6 or 8 reins, for there are 2 to each horse, and grasping his short severe whip, the yamstchik leaves the post-house at a furious gallop, and keeping the horses at this pace nearly the whole stage, not unfrequently returns to his station with one less than he set out with. The kihitka in winter is an improve- ment on the tchfja^ as it has a hood and an apron. In the winter sledges will be found even as far South as Odessa, and in this season from 10 to 12 miles an hour may be accomplished. The price of posting in the Finnish provinces is, jx^rhaps, rather less than in Pussia. In the provinces of Esthonia, Livonia, and Courland, a consideral)le dif- ferefice exists, the charges in the latter district being much higher than in any other part of Pussia. In Poland the charge is 1 zlot (dd. Enc^lish) per Polish mile of 7 versts for each horse, and about half a zlot for the driver ; but it is customary to give them 1 zlot per mile. The whole system is much inferior to that established in Pussia, or in the provinces of Livonia and Courland ; even where the roads are as good as any in Europe, as in the neighbourhood of Warsaw, the traveller is unable to make much speed, and the constant delays from the horses not being ready are vexatious in the extnmie. As alterations are frequently made in the post-stations, and sometimes in the roads, it will be desirable for the traveller, should he purpose visiting the more distant provinces of the empire, to purchase the printed routes published on authority for the year, and have the names of the stations read over to him, so that he can write them down in English — this will preserve him from the idea that he is imposed upon, sometimes as great a vexation as the reality. The post-maps are very accurate. The price of the ix)sting is always paid before starting. 9. — Cuisine and Pestaurants. The Diner-a-la-Pusse, as known in England, differs widely in substance, though not in form, from its j^rototype of Moscow. The following is the menu * of a Pussian dinner, which the traveller is invited to read in Pussian accents to the proprietor of the *' Palkin Traktir" at St. Petersburg, or to the landlord of the " Novo-Troitski," or the " Moscovski Traktir," at Moscow. I. — Zakuska. This is the vorschnack (dinette) of most northern nations. It consists of various relishes, such as fresh caviar, raw herrings, smoked salmon, halyk (sturgeon dried in the sun), raw smoked goose, radishes, cheese, butter, and other comestibles. These need not be specified, the word " Zakuska " comprehending everything of the kind in season. A glass of Kiimmel (Alasch), or of " Listofka," an excellent spirit flavoured with the young * It is scarcely necessary to point out that this is not the menu of a recherche dinner, but simply of a repast composed exclusively of national plats. E 2 54 0.— Cuisine and Bestauranfs. Sect. I. leaves of the black currant, is highly recommended. The curious may try the other liquors, or vodkas, which will be served up. 77, — The Obed, or Dinner, 1. Soups: — Okroshka ; a cold iced soup of kvas (a beverage made of fermented rye), with pieces of herring, cucumber, and meat floating in it. Batvenia ; another cold soup of green colour, scarcely more jialatable. Stchi : a very go%/', or cheese from the Zakuska, and even the caviar, may be served up again, though it is not customary at a llussian table. With reference to wines and drinks, it is indisiK-nsable, for the sake of harmony and comparison, to order nothing but what is produced on Russian soil. The sherry of the Crimea is a very tolerable brown sherry ; the imitations of Bordeaux and Champagne, provided they are really of the Crimean grape, not of the manufactories at Yaroslaf, are better than many inferior marks of the genuine article. Prince Woronzoft''s wines are highly recommended. The wine of the Caucasus comes in very appropriately as a Burgundy. Be sure to ask for Kahetinskoe, a very sound and pure wine. The ladies will be pleased with Gumbrinskoe, a pleasant sweet wine grown in the Gumbri district of the Caucasus. The champagne of the Don, Donsko^ Champanskoe', very often appears on Russian tables disguised as Clicquot, and is really a very potable wine ; all the sparkling wines of the Kussia. 9. — Cuisine and Bestaurants. 55 Crimea have a slight taste of apples, and the others have the goict du terroir. But besides the wines, there are several delicious beverages, under the denomination of Kvas. Order lablochni kvas, or cider; Grushevoi kvas, or i^erry ; Malinovoi, or raspberry kvas. The best, however, of all, is per- ha])s the goblet of cool Lomix)po, the recipe of which is supposed to have travelled from the Baltic provinces. There is excellent beer to be had at St. Petersburg. " Cazalet's or Kalinkinski Pale Ale " is almost equal to English draught ale. At Moscow " Danielson's " beer is alone drunK. Mead is likewise very pleasant to the taste. All these drinks are served in old silver tankards and beakers of German work. Coff'ee, liqueurs, and cigarettes complete the feast. Fruits can be had if demanded ; excellent in season. The service is very good; the slightest want is quietly and promptly supplied by the most civil of waiters, attired in bright-coloured silk shirts, worn over another garment of equal efi'ect and neatness. The cost of a dinner like that described above, exclusive of the zakuska, sterlet soup, wines, kvas, coftee, and fruit, will not be less than 2 rs. 50 cop. per head (7s. GJ.), and perhaps 5 rs. (locS.) in a dear season. The charge for a plate of sterlet soup is from 1*50 to 3 rs (4s, M. to Us.) according to the size of the fish ordered. The wines are very clieap compared with those of France or Spain. The dinner should, if possible, be ordered a day beforehand, although a few hours will suffice to secure most of the dishes named. In ordering it, special mention should be made of the wines of the Crimea, of the Don, and the Caucasus, as well as of the Kvas, as the former are not generally kept on the premises. If the i^rty be numerous, two or three rubles should be distributed among the waiters. Having finislied dinner, the visitor to Moscow should proceed to inspect the rooms devoted to tea-drinking. A seat close to the barrel-organ is the best point of observation. While sipping Joltoi Cliai^ or yellow tea, observe the bearded natives refilling their small teapot with a never-failing supply of hot water, soon converted into the palest beverage, sweetened with the piece of sugar kept in the mouth. The conversations carried on over the Chai relate to the transfer of rubles for value received or to be given. Events of a more festive character are celebrated at establishments where the bottle and the glass replace the more steady teapot, especially since the price of Vodka has been made very low. Those establishments need not be inspected ; their effect will be painfully seen in the tottering moujik and the oblivious woman jolting home in a drojky, or waiting to be ])icke(l up from the gutter. The climate must to a great extent be resix)nsible for the habit of drunkenness unfortunately so ])revalent in Russia, for it is older than the reforms in the excise to which much of it is now attributed. Master George Turberville, secretary to an English embassy to Moscow in the year 1568, says of the Russians that they are — " Folke fit to be of Baccbiis' train, so quaffing is their kinde. Drink is tlieir wliole desire, tlie pot is all their pride, The sob'rest head doth once a day stand needful of a guide ; ' If lie to banket bid his friends, he will not shrinke C)n tht'pi at dinner to bestow a doz;cn kinds of drinke ; 5G 10. — Climate, Clothing, (fee. Sect. I. Such liquor as they have, and as the country gives ; But chiefly two, one called Kwas, whereby the Mousike lives, Small ware and waterlike, but somewhat tart in taste. The rest is mead of home-made, wherewith their lips they baste. And if he goe unto his neighbour as a guest, He cares for little meat, if so his drinke be of the Ijest." Hospitality is still, as then, one of the chief virtues of the Russian people. 10. — Climate, Clothing, &c. The suhjoined Table of the mean temperature at various places in Russia, by Fahrenheit, will give the traveller an idea of the climate of Jiussia ; — Russia. 11. — Sanitary Peculiarities, 57 Annual Winter. Summer. ]\Ican Temperature. St. Petersburg + :58-7 Moscow + 39-6 Ilelsingfois.. + 38-7 Kid .. .. + 44-4 + 49-3 Odessa Tiflis .. + 55-2 + 33-3 Archangel .. Irkutsk + 31-1 Yakutsk + 11-1 Dec Jan. Feb. June. July. August. + 18-3 + 14-7 + '20-5 4- 22-5 + 25-2 + 35-6 + 9-3 - 1- - 37' + 60 •6 + G4 •0 + 59 •0 + 65 3 + 70- 7 + 73- 9 + 57 •7 + 61 •5 + 57- 9 The winter season sets in at St. Petersburg about the beginning of Novem- ber, when the Neva freezes, to ojjcu again about the end of April. In summer the prevalent winds arc from the W., S.W., and N.E., and in winter those from the S.W., S., and S.E. I'aradoxical as it may appear, the cold is in reality much less felt in Russia than in southern countries. The houses are adapted to resist the greatest amount of frost, and are even too warm. It is fallacious to sujipose that the cold is ever so intense at Moscow or St. Petersburg as to prevent people from issuing out into the open air. Twenty- five degrees below zero of Reaumur * is a very pleasant and exhilarating con- dition of the atmosphere when not accompanied by wind. Even the cold at Yakutsk, which is sometimes twice as intense as that of St. Petersburg or Moscow, is quite bearable, for it is seldom accompanied by wind. Frostbites may be avoided by taking the most ordinary precautions. 1'he ears are liable to freeze if long exposed. In very cold weather they should be occasionally rubbed, in order to promote the circulation of the blood. Snow is the best aj»])lication in cases of frostbite. The climate of St. Petersburg is more variable than that of Moscow, owing to its proximity to the Gulf of Finland. Rain and a complete thaw will sometimes suddenly succeed IS'^ of Fahrenheit. Travellers in winter should, however, take no notice of such variations, but continue to wear their fur clothing. Any change of dress in winter is sure to produce a violent cold. Cloaks of the racoon (Shuba) are mostly worn. They may be purchased in Germany for about 100 thalers, but their quality will be found inferior to those of Russia. A walking coat thickly wadded, and with a fur collar, will be found very useful. Ladies wear cloaks or jackets wadded \vith eiderdown or lined with fox-skins. A sable collar and mufl', * A degree of Reaumur is equivalent to about 2\ degrees of Fahrenheit, or rather 9° F.=:4° R. f and a small round hat of sable, complete the winter costume of a lady. These furs should be purchased at St. Petersburg (at Efimofs, Gostinnoi Dvor), where they will be found much cheaper and far better than in England or in Germany. The journey to St. Petersburg may very well be made by ladies throughout winter in thickly wadded coats or cloaks without fur collars or culfs, which will only be found requisite in driving or walking. Boots lined with fur or long boots of felt are indispensable to both sexes for this journey in winter. The following table (taken from the Academical Almanach of St. Peters- burg) will assist the traveller to convert degrees of Reaumur into their equivalents by Fahrenheit : — F.* R. F. R. F. R F. R. F. R. -40 -32-0 i 1- G -lG-9 +28 - 1-8 +62 + 13-3 + 96 +28-4 38 31-1 4 lG-0 30 0-9 G4 14-2 98 29-3 3G 30-2 1 2 15-1 32 0-0 66 15-1 1 100 30-2 34 29-3 1 14-2 34 + 0-9 68 160 ! 102 31-1 32 28-4 + 2 13-3 3G 1-8 70 16-9 ! j 104 32-0 80 27-G 4 12-4 i 38 2-7 72 17-8 i 100 32-9 28 26-7 G 11-G 40 36 74 18-7 1 108 33-8 2G 25-8 8 10-7 42 4-4 76 19-6 110 34-7 24 24-9 10 9-8 44 5-3 78 20-4 120 39-1 22 24-0 12 8-9 4G 6-2 80 21-3 130 43-6 20 23-1 14 8-0 i 48 71 82 22-2 150 52-4 18 22-2 IG 71 50 8-0 84 231 170 61-3 IG 21-3 18 G'2 52 8-9 86 24-0 : 190 70-2 14 20-4 20 5-3 54 9-8 88 24-9 1 210 79-1 12 19-6 ' 22 4-4 5G 10-7 90 25-8 i 212 80-0 10 18-7 24 3-G 5S 116 92 20-7 8 17-8 2G 2-7 GO 12-4 94 27-6 The freeziug-poiut of Fahrenheit is 32° and the boilhig-poiut is represented by 212°. 11. — Sanitary Peculiarities. The most common disease among the higher and middle classes in Russia, and one, indeed, from which few families are exempt, is scrofula. Con- sumption, on the other hand, is far less prevalent than in Great Britain, although most of the causes which are supposed to fiivour the development of tubercle may be detected in Russian life ; such causes, for instance, as wretched ventilation, and sometimes even no ventilation at all, and frequent changes in the weather, from hot to cold, and from dry to damp; and, among the lower classes, an insufficient quantity of food, and an excessive indulgence in intoxicating drinks. Scurvy and rickets are very common diseases among the lower class of Russians w^ho live in towns. Both com- plaints are the results, no doubt, of want of food, and of strict observance of the Church fasts, the sum total of which covers nearly five months out of the twelve, Not only is meat forbidden, but all products of the animal 58 12.—Sport, Sect. T. kingdom, such as eggs, milk, cheese, &'c., as well. The jX)or, therefore, liave a very small diet- table to choose from, and it is these who observe the fast most strictly. If it were not for the acid rye-bread which they eat, and the sour kvas which they drink, scurvy would jx?rhaps be more common even than it is now. Diarrlura and dysentery are very ]>revalent, and strangers are very liable to sufler from either of those diseases in llussia. Diarrhoea generally occurs in summer. It is difficult to say what causes it, and, as it is by no means so common in winter, it may be called " summer diarrhoea." The water of the Neva has been blamed more ]^crhaps than it deserves to be, as a cause of diarrhoea ; so has the position of St. Petersbuig; so has the atmosphere ; and so also have the vegetables. 'J'here is one point, however, u]ion which we may caution travellers, and it is this : not to eat too many verjtables and fruits when at St. Petersburg, anBears are to be found in considerable numbers in all the ex- tensive forests in the North, and of late years their number has rather been on the increase. The general way in which this sport is lol owed is this :— as soon as the first snow falls, peasants start from tneir vi lages in search of bear-tracks ; as soon as they come upon traces they lollow the track until they know by the numerous turns and twists which Bruin has made that he is thinking of choosing some snug corner for his winter quarters; they then proceed with greater caution, and, when they consider that tiie bear is not very far oft', they leave the track and make a circle, returning to their starting-place. If they have not again crossed the track they know that the bear must be within the circle ; they then advance a little further, when they a^ain make a detour as before ; and thus they proceed, gradually narrowinc^ the circle until they have enclosed the bear within a compara- tively small circumference. They then set off to town and ofter the bear to any sportsman whom they happen to know ; if he decides uix)n taking the bear at the price offered, he invites some of his friends to join him m the hunt, and they set out, either by rail or in sleighs, as the case may be to the villa^^e nearest the spot where the bear is. Beaters are then collected, the number varying according to the extent of the circle ; they arc placed in a semicircle, while the sportsmen stand in a line at distances of from fifty to eighty yards from one another, according to the number of guns r.nd the na'tui-e of the ground. The bear, roused from his slumbers by the shouts and cries of the peasants, makes a bolt for it, and generally comes within shot of one or other of the guns, which either wounds, kills, or misses him, althouf-h it but seldom happens that a single shot suffices to put an end to Bruin's existence. When wounded, the bear, more especially li it is a mother with cubs, is a dangerous customer, and it reiiuires both nerve and coura<^e to deal successfully with so formidable an antagonist. The sports- man, however, is generally provided with two guns, and a spear as udermer ressort, and most of the accidents which have happened have arisen either from foolhardiness or a want of nerve. When *' ringing " a bear, as it is tenned, should the peasant when making his ring again cross the track o I the bear, he knows that he has gone out of the circle, and accordingly instead of returning to his starting-point, he follows tlie fresli track, and proceeds as before described. Many sportsmen are not satisfied with the uncertain prospc>ct of a shot at a bear held out by a joint battue, and adopt another plan, for the success of which it is necessary that the i^asant who / 1 has " ringed " a bear should wait until he has settled himself for the winter, and theiT discover the spot where he has made his den; this accom- plished, he gives information to the sportsman, who goes to the place, either alone with the peasant, or accompanied by a friend, generally taking with him three or four rough dogs, who answer the double purpose of rousing the bear from his lair, and distracting his attention from the sports- man. In this way the hunter is almost sure of a shot, and has generally only himself to blame if he returns empty-handed. Some of the most noted and successful bear-hunters make a regular campaign against Bruin for several weeks together, camping out at night in the forest, and often pursuing for days together a bear who has escaped the bullet when started from his lair. Tlie best season of the year for this sport is January and February, at which time the snow is in a favourable condition for running on snow-shoes, without which accessories the hunter, sinking at every step to the middle in the deep snow, would be powerless. The snow-shoes are al)out 7 feet long and 6 inches broad, slightly curved at the point, with a foot-piece in the middle, to which are attached thongs or straps for securing the snow-shoe to the foot. Some of them are covered underneath with the skill of the reindeer, which is of great assistance to the hunter in ascending liills. In the absence of this under-covering of skin, the hunter provides himself with a pole about 8 feet in length, with a curved ixAni of liorn or bone, with which he guides himself in descending, or prevents his feet from slipping backwards in ascending any rising ground. It requires considerable practice to become an adept in the art of running on snow-shoes, but without them it is quite impossible to attempt to follow game in the winter time. An Englishman, who for many years was a mighty bear-hunter in Russia, was in the habit of attacking and pursuing these animals armed only with a spear ; and although many were the deadly struggles that he had face to face with his grim opponent, he never met with any accident. To use the spear with any certainty requires great dexterity and strength of arm, with nerves of iron, and should on no account be attempted by a novice. The Emi)eror Alexander 11. is a keen and experienced six)rtsman, and pas- sionately fond of bear-shooting, and every winter adds several skins to his already numerous trophies. ISears, as well as elk and wolves, are often shot within 40 miles of St. Petersburg. 7^7y^.,_Klk-shootiug is conducted much in the same way as the ordinary l)attue for bear. The peasants, however, will sometimes follow them for days for the chance of a shot. Wolves.-ANoUQ^ are shot by hunting with dogs, by an ordinary battue, and sometimes by riding down ; but this requires a peculiar condition of the snow, as well as rideable ground. They are to be found in consider- able numbers in the immediate neighbourhood of St. Petersburg, as well au all over Russia, and, unless hard pressed by hunger and in jmcks, are seldom dangerous. X2//iic.— The lynx is occasionally shot in the vicinity of St. Petersburg, and the sixjcies most generally found is the Fdis virgata of Nilssen. They arc a very wary animal, and even when " ringed " are very difficult to drive from their lurking-place. There are no reindeer in the immediate neighbourhood of St. Petersburg, but they abound in the provinces of Archangel, Olonetz, &c. &c. 62 13. — Sociehj. Sect. I. Fox-hunting. — A subscription pack of foxhounds is kept up by tlie English community at St. Petersburg. The kennels are about 12 m. out of town, and are well worth seeing, even out of the hunting season, which begins towards the end of August and ends about the middle of October, when the ground begins to get hard and slii»pery. :Many a good run has been had with the "Goreloe hounds," notwithstanding the marshy and Mooded nature of the country. A fox-hunting traveller will be most cordially welcomed and even mounted, provided he have no objection to bestride a Cossack pony — an animal which is however well adapted to the sort of work expected of him at Goreloe. Fishing. — Finland is famous for its streai^is and lakes stocked with the finest fish, and it will no doubt be oue day as much visited as Norway for the purposes of sjwrt ; for descriptions of which vido " Grand Duchy of Finland." 13. — Society. Winter is the season for gaieties in llussia. Travellers with letters of introduction will find salons of St. Petersburg as brilliant as those of Paris, but they are unfortunately not many. During a good season dinner parties, receptions, soirees, and balls, occur in such rapid suc- cession, that the man of fashion will find the winter too short, rather than too long. There is no dancing during the forty days that jn-eccde Easter. Christmas and the Carnival are the gayest periods. Two or three court balls are then given, and "distinguished strangers" who have been presented at home will sometimes receive invitations. Travellers wishing to be presented to H. I. M. must apply for an audience through H. M.'s Embassy. It is necessary to wear a uniform at court. French is the language spoken in society, but English is generally understood. Strangers are expected to make the first call, which is returned either in person or by card. In leaving cards on jx^rsons who are not at home, one of the edges of the card should be turned up. It is necessary to leave a card next day on any person to whom the stranger may have been introduced at a party. Those who are introduced to the stranger will observe the same politeness. Great punctuality is exacted at St. Petersburg in the matter of leaving cards after entertainments and introductions. Visiting on New Year's Day may be avoided by giving a small contribution to the charitable institutions of the city, which will be duly acknowledged in the newspapers. No presents are given to servants, except at New Year and Easter, when the porters of much- frequented houses will offer their congratulations in anticipation of a donation of 1 to 5 rubles, according to the number of visits paid. The hours for calling are 3 to 5 p.m. ; dinner parties are generally convened for G or G'30 ; and receptions commence at about 10 p.m., and last very late. Guests are expected to be punctual where members of the Imperial Family are invited. Ladies wishing to pass a " season " at St. Petersburg should recollect that Piussian ladies dress very richly, though in great taste. The charges of dress-makers at St. Petersburg being exorbitant, it is advisable to come provided with all the necessary toilettes. At balls, the only dance in which the stranger will not at first bo able to join is the Mazurka, a kind of cotillon imported from Poland. It is also necessar}- to Eussia. 14. — SeaRonf^ for Travelling* 63 observe that partners are not engaged for the whole of a waltz or polka, but only for a turn. In summer there are generally two or three salons out of town open for evening receptions. Ladies can wear roles montantes, and gentlemen light trousers and white waistcoats, with dress coats. The same costume for dinner parties in summer. Travellers should not forget that a Russian invariably takes off his hat whenever he enters an apartment, however humble ; and an omission to pay this respect to the holy image suspended in the corner of every room will immediately be noticed, and hurt the feelings of the host or hostess. Top coats must'always be removed on entering Paissian houses, as a ix)int of etiquette and politeness. 14. — Seasons for Travelling. Winter is naturaMy the most appropriate season for travelling in Paissia ; for the prevalence of ice and snow during a great portion of the year is the characteristic feature of the country. The mode of hfe which the long dark nights of winter induce, the contrivances of man to overcome the obstacles l)resented by the climate, the dormant aspect of nature, with its thick covering of dazzling snow, and its ice-bound lakes and rivers, now bearing horses and the heaviest burdens where ships floated and waves rolled,^ perhaps only a fortnight before :— all these scenes and peculiar phases of life render a journey to Russia very interesting and desirable in winter. But we cannot expect many tourists to submit to the hardships of travel- ling very far at such a season ; nor do we recommend it beyond a visit to St.^Petel-sburg, where a very good idea of a Russian winter may be obtained, and where sight-seeing and" amusements of a social character entail no dis- comfort. Moscow might, indeed, in winter disaj^point the traveller who seeks the picturesque, and should therefore be visited in summer, when the sun lights up with an extraordinary brilliancy the striking panorama of that city of churches and gilded cupolas. As, moreover, the great mass of tourists only visit the Contment durmg the months of sumnicr, our counsel in the matter of travelling in Russia is scarcely needed ; but as, on the other hand, there are many who can dis- pose of their time at all seasons, we may as well summarise our advice and our exjierience as follows. i • • i 1. Summer.— Proceed by steamer or yacht to the Baltic, and visit the towns on the coast of Finland. Spend a week at St. Petersburg, in seeing the churches, art collections, and other sights. Go to Moscow for a week, which will be fully occupied in viewing thoroughly all the places and objects described in Route 6. Novgorod the Great and the monastery of the New Jerusalem may be visited on the way by those who can spare three more days. If at the proper season (middle of August), the fair of Nijni should be seen. The voyage down the A'olga and across the Caspian, the tour in the Crimea, the journeys to Pekin and Teheran, should also only be performed in summer. From St. Petersburg return overland, by way of Poland. Travellers are attracted to Warsaw principally by political sympathies, or by a desire to see a country which has occupied so much of the attention 64 15. — 'Balhiwjs and Principal Bouics. Sect. I. of the statesmen of Europe. It may be visited indifferently, either in winter or summer, on tlie way to or from St. Petersburg. 2. WiNTER.^Travellers should visit St. Petersburg; specially in winter, with the object of seeing lUissia in her natural garb. The collections of the Hermitage, the exhilarating sports, the ra})id sleighing, and the gay life of the great capital of the North, will afford much enjoyment, and amply re- compense the time sx)ent, and the somewhat heavy expenses which such a trip will entail. ROUTES. 15. — IiAILWAYS AND PRINCIPAL liOUTES. Ptailways are being so rapidly pushed on in Russia in various directions that it is as yet impossible to reduce travelling in that conntry to any system. The tourist's course must for some time continue to Ix' zigzag and erratic, for a methodic route traced to-day would probably not be available for more than six months after. The accompanying map will show the prin- cipal directions which the railways are taking, the line of most importance to tourists being that which will connect the Crimea with Moscow and St. Petersburg. Until tliat line is opened throughout its entire length, few travellers for pleasure will go beyond Moscow or Nijni. Two years hence (when a new edition of this Handbook will probably become neces- sary) Moscow will not be, as at present, the Ultima ThnU of the great majority of travellers. It will only be visited en route from or to the Crimea. In the mean wliile it may be stated generally, for the encourage- ment of travellers, that the Pussian railways are the most comfortable in Europe, On the line between St. Petersburg and Moscow the traveller may regularly go to bed in a sleeping compartment; he may ask for a table and play at cards; and he may even make his morning ablutions in the train. The stoppages are rather too frequent to please the impatient traveller, but on such long journeys it is frequently very refreshing to be able to stretch one's legs even for five minutes at a station. Uailway travelling being somewhat new to the Russian people, the tra- veller will sometimes be surprised to see a certain amount of disorder in the talking and keeping of seats. On entering a train all the seats will at first appear to be occupied, but an application to the station-master will soon cause a removal of the cloaks, bedding, &c., with which the carriage is packed. However, these artifices are not peculiar to Ptussia alone. As a rule, the traveller will find every comfort and civility on the lines of rail- way, &c., described in the following pages, where it is to be hoi)ed sufficient inlbrmation will be found to render the journey interesting. The words and dialogues given in the " Vocabulary " have been found amply suflicient to enable the tourist to reach Astrakhan without* any previous knowledge whatever of the Russian language. The arrangement of skeleton routes and systematic tours must be re- served for the next edition. [The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are descnbed.] Notice. — A Railway Guide for Russia, or ' Ukazatel Puteshestviya,' is published at St. Petersburg by ]\Iessrs. F. P>. Froom and Co., in the Russian language (with the headings of the Tables in English), and may be purchased for 25 c. at all the principal stations. ROI'TE PAGE 1. London to St. rdorsbnrg, over- land, via Berlin, Kowno, Wilna, ixnd rsliof. .. .. C5 2. London to St. Petersburg, by Scfif \i\x Cromtadt .. .. 157 3. London to St. Petersburg, via ArchdiKiel 157 4. BerVm to iieval, hy Rifja, Dor- pat, &c 1C3 5. St. Petersburg to Novgorod the Great. '. 17o 170 217 ROUTE TAGE G. St. Petersburg to Moscow . . 7. Moscow to Troitsa Monas- tery (Troitskaya - Sergieva Lavra) 8. Moscow to Nijni Novgorod^ with branch line to Slmya and Ivanovo, and excur- sion up the Oka to Muvom^ Elatma, and Kasimof 0. Volga: TwcT to Astral-Jtau .. 220 228 ROUTE 1. LONDON TO ST, PETERSBURG, OVERLAND, VIA BERLIN, KOWNO, WILNA, AND PSKOF. By travelling without intermission, St. Petersburg can be reached from London in 3J days. Through tickets from Charing- cross to St. Petersburg, available for 30 days, and enabling travellers to \\ ! stop at the i)rincipal continental I ' towns on the route, are issued at the following rates: — fr. c. 1st class via Ostcnd 355 10* Ditto via Calais 351) CO Mixed tlclcet (2nd class between Cologne and St. Petersburg)— via Ostend 2S3 30 via Calais 287 20 * Those rates vary slightly every week, ac- cording to the rise or fall of the exchanges. Each passenger is allowed 60 lbs. of luggage free of charge. As the Russian 2nd class carriages are not equal to those on the German lines, the English or American traveller, witli a mixed ticlvct, is recommended to pay at Wkrzbolow the differ- ence to St. Petersburg lx;twcen 1st and 2nd class. The route from London to Berlin and Konigsberg is described in Handljook of North Germany. The journey is broken at Berlin, where travellers may remain 12 hrs, or go through. In case of fatigue, a night may be passed at Konigsberg or at Eydkuhnen, on the Prussian fron- tier. The carriages throughout are comfortable and roomy, and present focilities for sleeping. Buffets fre- quent and good^ Money can be changed either at Eydkuhnen (the last Prussian station), or at Wierzbo- low, where the exchange of the day is given. 500 ra. from St. Petersburg, at Wir- (jG Haute 1. — Kowno. Sect. T. bailen (or Wierzbolow), passports and lu.i2:gage are examined. Porters eharot on the 13th December, in a very bad state of disci- pline. In tlie centre of tlie market- place, in front of the town-hall and barracks (established in an ancient I'olish ch.), is a monument commemo- rative of the retreat, and bearing the following inscription in Pussian :— "In 1812 Russia was invaded by an army numbering 700,000 men. The army recros.sed the frontier numbering 70,000." Kowno formed part of the ancient Duchy of Lithuania, now called one of the N.W. provinces of Russia, whose history will be read at Wilna. The scenery around is mountainous and wooded. In the days of paganism this site was of great repute as tlie residence of several mythological divinities. The | town is supposed to have been founded in the early part of the lltli centy. In the 14th and 15th cents, the castle of Kowno played an inii)ortaiit part in the history of Lithuania. It was fre- quently attacked by the Teutonic Knights; but in 1400 Vitovt, Grand Duke of Lithuania, ordered it to be blown up, in order that it might not fall into other hands. After that event, which took from the town its military importance, Kowno became gradually a centre of trade, particu- larly after 1581, when it was made the seat of a custom-house for all goods exported out of Poland. The establishment of an English Factory at Kowno in the middle ages is like- wise a proof of its great commercial importance. Subsequent religious di.s- sensions reduced the inhabitants to such extreme poverty that in 1G54 they were released from the obligation of paying taxes. In 1055 Kowno was burnt and jjillaged by the Russians,' who occupied this part of the country until 1G61, and into whose hands the town fell definitively in 1705. A fire destroyed \ of the town in 1808 ; and in 1812 it was devastated and pillaged by the French. There are several xjld churches still extant ; that dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, in the 15th centy., being the largest Roman Cath. ch. in Litiiuania. Tho church of St. George was built in 1471, and the chapel dedicated to St. Gertrude existed in 1503. Five small stations beyond is Wilna Stat., 441 m. from St. P. Pop. 58,000. JIoteL—UCitQl de I'Europe, recommended. Chief town of tho ancient independent Duchy of Lithu- ania, connected with I'oland in 1380, when its Duke, Jagellon, espoused Hedwiga, Queen of Poland. Tho dynastic union of the two countries imparted the .strength which they re- quired in order to repel the invasions of the Teutonic Knights, to arrest the incursions of the Tartars, and to keep the Dukes of IMoscow within the limits of their territory. The Union, commenced by the Convention of Wilna, 1401, b<'came organic two cen- turies later by an Act i)a.ssed at a Common Diet held at Lublin in 1500. The history of Lithuania remained that of the kingdom of Poland until the Third Partition in 1795, when it was incorjx)rated with Russia. Divided later into the provinces of Wilna, Grod- no, Kowno, and Minsk. Lithuania now constitutes, together with the proviiicesof Mohilef and Witebsk (also called White Russia, and detached from Poland in 1772), the N.W. pro- vinces of the Russian empire, in- habited by the following races : — Russia. JRoufe 1. — Wihia, 67 1. The dominating elements : — a. Poles, represented bj' the nobi- litv, the Catholic clergy, and the inliabitants of towns . . 580,000 b. Great Russians or Moscovites, consisting of government offi- cials, the Russo-Greolc clergy, and colonies of Dissenters from the llusso-G reek Church .. 212,000 2. Rural population : — a. White Russians (Slavonians) . . 2,157,000 b. Lithuanians, Saraogitians, and Letts 1,556,000 3. Jews 535,000 4. Other elements 65,000 Total 5, 105, (too Of these 2i millions belong to the Russo-Greek, and 2 millions to the Roman Catholic Confession. A very large proix)rtion, however, of the popu- lation, considered orthodox by Russian statists, were, before their forced con- version in 1830, Uniats, or worship- pers in the amalgamated Churches of the Greek and Roman faith. The ITniat denomination had been intro- duced in 1590, under the influence of the Jesuits, with a view to Romanise the Lithuanian people, then of the (ireek Church. The converted of 1839, then about 2 millions in num- ber, preserve to this day a leaning to- wards the United Church, which is certainly more Catholic and Polish than Orthodox and Russian. The political vicissitudes to which these provinces have been subjected, and the mixed nature of their jwitula- tion, afibrd a fertile and disastrous source of disagreement between the Russians and the Poles. By the former they are regarded and governed as Russians, subject .some time to Poland, but now reincorporated by conquest and treaties of partition ; while the Polish element, composed of the aristocracy, landed gentry, and educated classes generally, maintain that the N.W. provinces are Polish, and, as such, entitled to a national administration. The imperial Govern- ment ignore tlie claim, and deny that the Poles, subjects of the Emperor, entitled to certain political privileges by the Treaty of Vienna, are the Poles of the N.W. provinces. The claim is, however, unfortunately asserted at every available opportunity. The in- surrection of 1831 in the kingdom of Poland was one of tliose opportunities ; the revolution of 1862 at Warsaw was the latest. The repressive measures of Gen. Mouravieff in 1863 and 1864 were dated from Wilna. Here the leaders of the hopeless insurrection in the provinces were confined, tried, hung, or shot. The reduction of the population in the N.W. provinces by deportation to distant parts of the em- pire is variously estimated at 50,000 to 100,000 souls. Their landed ])ro- perty has since been transferred, by confiscation and forced sale, to native Russians. The town of Wilna lies in a hollow at the foot of several hills which rise to some height on the E., 8., and AV. The Vilia river runsout at the northern extremity of the hollow, and, winding through decj) and intricate ravines, clothed with foliage of the fir, the birch, and the lime, presents a most pictu- resque and smiling panorama, little in keeping with the stern deeds of retri- bution which have made Wilna so fomous. Wilna is supposed to have existed in the 12th centy., and was the capital of Lithuania in the early part of the 14th centy., when its population was still i)agan. A perpetual fire was kept burning at the foot of the hill which Gedemin crowned with a castle in 1323. The remains of the old castle, with an octangular tower of red brick, arc still seen commanding the town, in pleasing contrast with the verdure around. A famine destroyed more than 30,000 inliab. in 1710, and in 1715 the town was almost entirely burnt down. The house of the Governor-General was formerly the Episcopal Palace, and the ijresent post-office was the resi- dence of Cardinal Radziwil. The churches will repay a visit ; the most ancient being the Cathedral of St. Stanislaus, built in 1387, and the ch. of the Assumption, founded in 1364. They possess considerable ar- chitectural merit, and among their monmuents will be foimd those of 68 Boiite 1 . — Duncihurg — Ostrof, Sect. I. several families whose names are fa- miliar to all readers of I'olish history. The University, established in 1803, was suppressed in 1832. Wilna was occupied by the French army on the 28th Juno. 1812. It had been evacuated by the Kussians durnij]; the niij^ht. The Emperor NapolecMi occupied in tlio Episcopal Palace the rooms which the Emperor Alexander had left tlie previous day. Sir Kobert Wilson's Memoirs give interesting de- tails about Wilna. Tyrconnel, his aide-de-camp, lies buried here. The main line runs hence to War- saw, biit a branch turns otf at Land- warowo (the next station after Wilna), for the Prussian frontier. 3GG m. Swentsiany, Buffet. Town of 4000 Inhab. on the western Dwina. 331 m. Dlinalmrq, Buf. Town of 27,000 Inhab. in province of Witibsk, formerly known as White Russia. Diinaburg has a first-class fortress, built in 1S25, on tlie site of a fortifi- cation raised l)y Stephen Batory in lo82. A tete-de-pont commands the iloating bridge over the river Dvina. John the Terrible of Russia took the town in 1.577, after which it was oc- cupied by the Swedes in IGOO. Tlie Russians retook it in 1G56, ])ut re- turned it two years later to the Poles, who in their turn were compelled to cede it finally to the Russians in 1772. The fortress is now the most im- portant strategical point on the Dvina line of defence. As a jdace of trade, Diinaburg holds a high position among the western towns of Russia. Large (juantities of flax, hemp, tallow, and timber are collected here for shipment or carriage to Riga. The opening of the railway to Orel will still furtlier increase the traflic through Diina- burg. As yet there are no hotels at Diina- burg where travellers bound from Berlin to Moscow via AVitebsk and Orel can find comfortable quarters. Information respecting the inns of the country should be obtained from t he station-master. There is a branch line from Diina- burg to Riga (see Rte. 4), and another to Orel (Rte. 12). 330 m. Antonopol, Buf. 230 m. Korsofka, Buf. 204 m. Ostrof, Buf. To\vn of 2500 Inhab., in province of Pskof, on river Veliki. The town takes its name, which signifies '* island," from an island formed by the Veliki, and on wliieh a fortrt^ss existed in the 14th centy. Three of the towers, built of a grey flagstone and rod limestone, are still to bo seen, together with tho church of St. Xichohis in the centre of tlio island, built in 1582. Ostrof was burut by tlic Lithuanians in 1501, wlion 4000 iniiab. i)orished ; and in 1581 it was taken by Stephen Batory. A largo trade is carried on in flax, carried hence to Riga, Narva, and St. Poh-rs- burg. Travellers sometimes telegraph from 'vere to the hotel at St. Peters- burg for a carriage. 171 m. Fslwf, Buf. Chief town of province of same name, 15,000 Inhab. This was anciently one of the three reiniblics of Russia ; the others being Novgorod the Great, and Khlynof (now Viatka). Tradition points to tho year 975 as the date of its foundation. It was, like Novgorod, the seat of a great trade with Germany in tho earliest times, and formed i)art of tho Hanseatic League. The wave of European civilization and commerce first met the tide of Slavonic barbarism at this point. Commercial prosix;rity introduced jmlitical freedom and much j)opular turbulence. The citizens of Pskof elected their own princes, de- posed them at pleasure, and held in- cessant Vecli^^ or popular coimcils almost identical with the Witenage- motes of the Saxons. The assembly, convened by a bell, sat on an elevated mound, approached by steps, and on which a club or heavy stick was set up, emblematical of the majesty of the law. There is a record of a Veche at Pskof in which the citizens deli- berated in their shirts, so urgent was the danger to their privileged city. Russia. Itouie 1. — Pshof: The Kremlin, 69 This form of government was retained, as at Novgorod and some other towns, even during the Tartar dominion, but it succumbed at last to the autocracy established by John III. and John the Terrible, who incorporated all tho petty principalities of Russia with the Grand Duchy of Moscow. Tho liberties of Pskof survived those of Novgorod 32 years. Taking advantage of some factious j)roceedings at tlie Veche, John the Terrible perfidiously impri- soned the boyars and citizens who had been sent to do him homage at Nov- gorod, and sent an envoy to the Veche demanding the instant submission of tliat body. The envoy sat down on the steps of the Veche, and long waited for an answer. The citizens could not speak for their tears and sobs, and asked to be allowed until the morrow for reflection. It was a most dreadful day and night for Pskof. •"Infants at the breast," continues tlie Chronicle, " were the only ones that did not cry for grief. The wailings of the people were heard in the open street and in every house : they em- braced each other as if their last hour had come. So great was the love of the citizens for their ancient liberties." I?ut resistance they felt to be useless ; and the next day, the 13th January, 1510, they took down the bell of the Veche at the church of the Holy Tri- nity, and, gazing at it, "long cried over the past and their lost freedom." Three hundred of tlie most distin- guished families were thereupon re- moved to Muscovy, and replaced by Muscovites. A town with such a glorious history is well worthy of a visit. It stands at a distance of 2 m. from the rly. stat. and cannot, therefore, be inspected during the 15 or 20 minutes which travellers are allowed there for re- freshment. But to those who will hazard the discomfort of a native inn under the protection of a guide, we point out the following objects of curiosity : — The Kremlin, of which the stone walls were built in 1323, occupies an elevation 200 fathoms in length, and 30 in breadth. It faces the river Pskova on the E. and N., and the Velika on the W. Another wall, called Dovmont's Wall, constructed in the latter part of the 13th centy., springs from the southern face of the Kremlin and forms a square, on which once stood the castle or palace of the Prince. There is now but one ancient building in that square,— a house of stone, built in the early part of the 15tli centy., l)y Macarius, subsequently Metropolitan of all Russia, and which was the residence of the Archbishops of Novgorod when they visitt^d Pskof, placed under their ecclesiastical ju- risdiction. The huge mass of the Cathedral of the Trinity occupies nearly the whole of the interior of the Krem- lin, The original ch. on that site is supposed to have been built a.d. 957, by Olga, converted to Christianity at Constantinople two years previously. The cathedral became thus early a centre from which the Christian reli- gion w^as diftused among the pagan tribes around. The ancient ch. was replaced by a stone edifice in 1138. Dovmont, a Lithuanian chief, was bap- tized in it, together with his family and followers, in 12GG, prior to his election as Prince of Pskof, but that building only lasted till 1363. A third cathe- dral was built on its foundation in 13G8, and lasted long enough to witness some of the most important events in the history of the town. Within its walls, in 1510, John the Terrible caused the citizens to swear allegiance to the Grand Duke of Moscow. In 1581 the cathedral was besieged and stormed by the forces of Stephen Ba- tory, who was repulsed by the defend- ers of the city, stimulated to valour and enthusiasm by the exhibition of a miraculous image of the Holy Virgin. The Pskovians had " washed tlie whole floor of the ch. with their tears " be- fore the danger had passed. The present Cathedral was built on the site of those ancient edifices in 1G82, but has been much restored since, especially after a fire which 70 Boute 1. — PsJcof: The Cathedral. Sect. I. took place in 1770. Its style is Russo- liyzantian, of considerable beauty. Some of the images of saints are ancient and curious, and the traveller will be shown numerous relics. The most in- teresting of these is the tomb of St. Vsevolod-Gabriel, tlie ejected Prince of Novgorod, and elected ruler of Pskof, who died a.d. 1138, after leading a life of great virtue and sancity. The Novgorodians demanded his relics, but the coffin would not be moved, evi- dently expressive of the desire of the departed prince to abide with his faith- ful Pskovians. Several otlier miracles are attributed to liis remains. A sword, with tlie inscription, " Honorem meum nemini daho," is shown as having be- longed to Vsevolod, who was as warlike as he was godly. Tiie cross wliich St. Olga raised at I\skof, and which was destroyed by fire in 1509, is represented by a crucifix suspended against the second pillar on the right-hand side of the altar-screen. The lamp which burns in front of it was presented by tiie Grand Duke G^nstantine Nicolaevitch in comme- moration of the birth of his daughter. The tomb of St. Dorinont, in a chai)el to the right of the Ikonostas or altar- screen, is not of silver, like that of St. Vsevolod, but of plain oak. It bears an inscription recording the his- tory of this liitliuanian prince, who appears to have assumed tlie name of Timothy at his baptism. His sword, frequently wielded in defence of the city, hangs near his tomb. It was held in great reverence by the Pskovians, who invested their princes witli it at their consecration in this cathedral. Alongside of this tomb is that of " the sainted Nicholas Sales the Idiot," who saved Pskof from the fury of Jolm the Terrible in the following manner: — Having persuaded the citizens to pre- sent bread and salt to the angry Tsar immediately after mass, he rode about on a stick like a cliild, constantly re- peating " Johnny, Johnny, eat the bread and salt, and not the blood of Christians." The Tsar ordered liim to be seized, but the saint suddenly vanished, Struck with awe, John the Terrible, entered the cathedral with all meekness, and was met by the clergy carrying the holy crosses. An- other version is tliat Nicliolas oflfered the Tsar a piece of raw meat. " I am a Christian," said John the Terrible, "and do not eat meat in Lent." " But tliou drinkest the blood of Christians," replied the saint, while he exliorted the Tsar to be merciful. The tyrant, however, only listened to the warning after the saint liad caused liis horse to fall, at the moment the bell of the cathedral was ordered to be taken down. The sacridy contains many ecclesi- astical antiquities, and some ancient seals and coins of Pskof. There are several other churches worthy of a visit, each with a legend or tradition of miracles performed to tlie discomfiture of foreign foes. The interposition of saints appears to have been frequently needed by the good old city. The small chapel opposite tlie market commemorates the victims of an insurrection which broke out in 1650. Some of the houses are of ancient date; that occupied by the " Victualling Departutent " once belonged to the Pogankins, a race of merchant-princes now extinct. The tiles of the roof are curious. The Trubinski house is not as perfect a specimen of ancient Russian architecture as it was before a fire which partially consumed it in 185C. Peter the Great visited it. Travellers should cross the Pskof river and examine the churches and old buildings in the suburbs. Gustiivus Adolj^hus besieged Pskof from that side in 1615. There are several mo- nasteries, rich in ecclesiastical objects of ancient date, beyond the Velika river, A village, 8 m. up the latter river, and called Vybutina, was the birthplace of St. Olga. The fortified monastery of Pskof-Pecliersk, celebiated for its catacombs and for the sieges which it has sustained, lies about 20 m. to the W. of Pskof. Two stations beyond Pskof is Belaya, 139 m., Buffet, liussia. Houte 1. — Gaichina — St. Petersburg. n 85 m. Luga, Buff".; chief town of district in province of St. Petersburg. 53 m. Vivenskaya, Buif. 28 m. Gatchina, an imperial resi- dence, founded by Prince Gregory Orlofi', and purchased on his decease by Catherine II., who presented it to her son, the Grand Duke Paul. The grounds are very extensive and well laid out, but somewhat neglected, since the palace is rarely, if ever, inhabited. It was built by Prince G. Orloff", after a plan by Rinaldi. The emperor keeps a kennel there, which may be inspected on application to the Master of the Hounds. Many of the pictures which the palace contained have been re- moved to the Hermitage. The trout of Gatchina, caught abundantly in the lakes and streams by which the park is intersected, appear on every good Russian table. In the ch. are some relics brought from Malta, and in a building, which will be pointed out as the Priory, the Knights of Malta were wont to assemble mider the pre- sidency of their Grand Master, the Emperor Paul. Travellers who have time to spare should make this a separate excursion under the guidance of a commissionaire. St. Petersburg Tersiints. JJofeh.—The English or American traveller who prefers home comforts and the use of his native tongue to a foreign mode of life and speech, is strongly recommended to the board- ing-house kept by Miss Benson, No. 78, on the English Quay {Anglishaya Costinitsa . Anglishnja Naherejna). The apartments are quite English in their neatness and cleanliness. The table- d'hote is well loaded with substantial English fare, varied with dishes taken from the " Dhier ii la Russe." The charges vary from rs. 3*50 to rs. 4*50 per diem for bed and board. The waiters understand English, and the worthy and obliging proprietress is ever ready to assist the helpless travel- ler with her knowledge of the country and its language, and particularly with information respecting the sights of the capital. A commissionaire in at- tendance. The other class of tourists, accus- tomed to foreign hotels, and who can make themselves understood in French or German, should ask for the '' Hotel de Russie" (or Klce's Hotel) (" Gosti- nitsa Klay"), on the Place Michel, in the centre of the town. This is an old-established house, fashionably fre- quented. There are about 200 rooms, at 1 to 15 rs. (Ss. to 458.) per day. A reduction is made if the rooms are taken by the month. Cold, warm, and shower-baths on the premises, as well as the indispensable tub. The traveller sliould ask for the apartments down- stairs, recently fitted up. Dinners by a French cook in separate rooms at 1 r. to 1 r. 50 (3s. to 48. Gd.). A table- d'hote at 5 o'clock, 1 r. (3s.) English, French, and American newspapers kept. Commissionaires in attendance. Another hotel, much to be recom- mended for its cleanliness and cuisine, is the '* Hotel de France," kept by L. Croissant, and situated in Great Mor- skoy-street, near the Winter Palace. The charge for apartments is from 75 cop. to 15 rs. (2s. 3c?. to 45s.). All languages spoken. Baths on the pre- mises. The other hotels are : — Hotel Demouth, near the Police Bridge, close to "Nevsky Perspec- tive," a large and commodious hotel, with an excellent cuisine. Grand Hotel, Little Morskoi -street. Recently established, and therefore clean. Hotel Bellevue, on " Nevski Per- spective.' Very good, and well re- commended. Hotel d'Angleterre, opposite St. Isaacs, also very good. An omnibus from each of the foreign hotels meets the train. Vehicles. — A crowd of conveyances of every description will be found at 72 Boiite 1. — St. Petersburg. Sect. I. the station. INIiss Benson will send a carriage if telegrapbed to, but there is no difficulty in making a Kussian coachman drive to tlie addresses given above. Travellers with much luggage, and unwilling to enter an omnibus, should secure one of the large four- seated carriages driven by a coachman in Russian dress, leaving the price to be settled at the hotel. The small, uncomfortable drojkies will charge 40 to 50 copecks. For sight-seeing or business, engage a carriage at the hotel. The charge is 6 to 7 rs. (18s. to 2l8.) a day, to any hour of the night. Police licgulafions. — The i)rinoipal police regulation, to which the traveller must pay careful attention, is that which relates to passports {vide chapter on Passports). Smoking in the streets, which was once absolutely prohil^ited, is now i>ermitted, except in the neigh- bourhood of palaces,on wooden bridges, &c. Notices to that eftect, in four languages, will bo found in several parts of the town. History and Topofjrajih/ofSt. Peters- burg. — The region comprised between Lake Peipus and the Narova river on the one side, and tlio lake of Ladoga on the other, was anciently called Ingria, and belonged first to Novgorod, then to Moscow, until the year 1G17, when it passed to tlie Swedes, and it was only reconquered by Peter the Great in 1702, who, desiring to have ''a window looking out into Europe," laid the foundation of St. Petersburg in 1703, after disi)ossessing the Swedes of their fort and townlet of Nyenschanz, on the Oklita. The Neva, rising in Lake Ladoga, flows through the city. After receiving the waters of the Okhta river, it disembogues in the Gulf of Fin- land, separating into many branches and forming several islands. The first branch is called tlie Great Nevka, and an arm of the latter the Little Nevka. From the point where the Nevka rises the river bears the name of the Great Neva, in distinction to the second branch, which it sends oflf to the N.W., called the Little Neva. Thus the Bay of Cronstadt receives the waters of the Neva by four channels of considerable volume and breadth, whicli are further distributed through the city by 4 canals. {Vide Finn). In the spring of 1703 Peter the Great caused a great number of liussian and Finnish peasants to be concentrated on the banks of the Neva for the construction of St. Petersburg, and soon after 40,000 mc^n were drafted annually for several years from the most distant jiarts of the empire, the Tsar superintending the works in per- son, and dwelling in a small cottjige, still shown. The lir.st private houses were built in 1704 on tlic N. side of the river, in a part of the town now called Old l\'t(^rsl)urg. Elegant houses began to be erected l)y foreigners in 1705 in a street still called the Millionaya, where the; Hermitage at present stands. The largo island between the Great and Little Neva was soon after in- habited by the dependants of Prince MenschikofF, to wliom Peter tlie Great gave it. It was called Yassili Ostroft', or Basil's Island, after the name of the commander of a battery placed at the E. extremity of the island. Here Prince Menschikoif erected a palace, now a militiiry school (at tlie corner of the "1st Line ") ; and here also rose the " Frencli Colony," a group of pretty houses in which Peter located hia foreign workmen, but of which no traces remain. The first brick house was built in 1710, by the chancellor, Count Golofkin, at tlie spot when; the Nevka brandies olf from tlie Neva. The Admiralty began to be recon- structed in brick in 171 1. The palaces of the Nobles, originally of wood, were soon after replaced by more durable and elegant buildings. Prince Men- schikoff erected another residence ou the site of the present Senate House. The marshy nature of the soil presented obstacles which were only to be van- quished by the most indomitable energy and perseverance. For many years, every cart and each vessel entiT- ing the new town was bound to bring a certain number of stones, which were EdV*'WeILer London , John Murray, Albemarle Street . Russia. Moute 1. — St. Petershurg. 73 used in paving streets. On the death of Peter the construction of St. Peters- burg relaxed in vigour, although Catherine I. continued to inhabit the city. Pet^r II. preferred Moscow, and died there. The Emi)ress Anne fixed her residence at St. Petersburg, and occupied the i)alace of Count Apraxin, on tlio site of tiu- present "Winter Palace. INIany l)uildings were erected in her reign. The elegant spire of the Admiralty was tlien added. The soil was raised in places wliere the river threat^'ued to overwhelm it, and tlie streets assumed a more regular aspect. Tlienceforward the court of Russia settled permanently at St. Petersburg. Successive sovereigns erected monu- ments, and strove to embellish their new capital. Tlie Empress Catherine caused a quay of ''granite to be built along the left bank of the rai)id Neva, which did not, however, save tlie capital from inundations in 1728, 1729, 173."), 1740, 1752, 1777, and 1824. On the last occasion the waters rose 13 ft. 4 hi. above tlieir ordinary level. The historical associations of the most remarkalile buildings of St. Petersburg will be mentioned in proper order. The traveller wlio wislies to obtain a more accurate Imowledge of the topo- gra])liy of the city is recommended to ascend the dome <»f St. Isaac's. From here, looking N., hv will see tiie Vassili Ostrof, or Basil Island, and on it tlie Exchange, tlie Academy of Sciences, the University, the 1st Military School (or Corps de Cadets), and the Academy of Arts, all facing the river. A little to the left is the Citadel, and beyond it, to the N. and W., are the islands of Ai)tekarski (witli the College of Sur- geons), Kamennoi, Petrofski, Krestof- ski, and Elaghinski. To the E. of the Great Nevka, and the N. bank of the Neva, are barracks, factories, and various government establishments. Tlic communication between the main- l^d and these islands is limited to three bridges : the Nicholas Bridge, on magnificent granite piers, anadly paved. Beyond the Fontanka, along the banks of wliich is ranged a succession of palaces, lie the more remote portions of the city, which merge by degrees in the swami)s of Ingemianland, or Ingria. To tlie E., on the rt. bank of the Neva, are the villages of the Great and Little Oklita, and tliese, with the; suburljs on the Ligofku and Zagorodni canals, are peopled by the labouring classes. The front of the Admiralty, towards tlie vast open space of tlie same name, is nearly lialf an Kng. m. in length, and its 2 sides at rt. angles to it, and running down to the river, are G50 En jr. ft. Ion LT ; one of these sides faces the Winter Palace, the other the " Isaac's Place " and the Senate House. The effect of the light and graceful spire of the Admiralty is very pleasing, but the gallery at its base is greatly disfigured by some emblematical figures in plaster. Over the principal entrance are .some gigantic frescoes in relief, emblematical of Russia's power and strengtli ; one of the groups is intended to rei)resent Peter the Great receiving a trident from the hands of Neptune. A considerable portion of the Ad- miralty is devoted to schoolrooms for naval cadets ; the rest is occujjied by the civil departments of the navy, antl by a naval museum. Only vessels of very small burden are built at the dockyard of the Admiralty, the slips for frigates and ships of that descrip- tion are lower down the river at the end of the English Quay. On the S. front of the Admiralty is the noble Ploschad, or square, called after it, round which are grouped the chief buildings of the capital ; amongst these is tlie " Hotel de I'Etat Major," where the Foreign Oifice and the De- partment of Customs arc likewise located. The War Office stands alongside the Cathedral. Tlie Senate and the Svnod flank tlie Admiralty Place on the W. On the rt.. and skirting the river, is the AV^inter Palace. The circumference of the open spaces, bordered l)y the public buildings just mentioned, is not much less than an Eng. mile. At one extremity, near the Senate and the Synod, stands the colossal equestrian statue of Peter the Great, while the otlier is gracefully ornamented by the smooth and polished monolith raised to the memory of the Emi)eror Alex- ander I. Tlie quays and tlie Neva are as much animated by shipping as the streets are by carriages and tlie canals by passing l)oats. But, beautiful, re- gular, and vast as this view of St. Petersburg really is, the traveller will look in vain for anything approaching the picturesque. No buildings are raised above the rest ; masses of archi- tecture, worthy of mountains for their pedestals, are ranged side by side in endless lines, and the eye, nowhere gratified either by elevation or grouj)- ing, wanders unsatisfied over a mon- otonous sea of undulating palaces, vainly seeking a pohit of antiquity or shade on which to repose. This is particularly obvious in winter, when streets, river, and houses are all covered with snow. In spring, when the sun removes the jiale shroud from the earth and the waters, the lively green of the painted roofs and the bright cupolas of the clis. enable the eye again to revel in the long untasted enj;)y- ment of colour, while the river gaily mirrors the palaces that grace iis banks. No one can have a just opinion of the daring position of St. Petersburg who has not mounted one of her arti- ficial heights, and viewed the immense body of waters in which she floats like a bark overladen with precious goods, 1% while the waves seem as if, deriding her false foundations, they would over- turn in a few hours that which the will of man had raised with such un- tiring labour and energy. When a S.W. wind is lifthig the Gulf fuiiously towards the city, and the Neva, re- joicing in its strength, is dashing along the quays and tossing to and fro the vessels moored close to them, it rccjuires no further evidence to show the stranger what might be the fate of the thousands who inhabit it. Presuming, therefore, that the tra- veller has followed our directions, and taken a bird's-eye view of this city of 23alaces and its suburbs, and made him- self generally acquainted with their to])ogrn])]iical position, he may descend into the streets, and traverse the bridges, islands, great thoroughfares, quays, and squares, with a view of acquiring more in defciil a knowledge of their chief characteristics — the external appear- ance of the great public buildings, shojis, and population ; and then take the sights at leisure as they present themselves most conveniently, or as his individual taste may suggest. This ])lan of a general survey will in some degree satisfy the feeling of restless curiosity consequent upon a recent arrival in scenes utterly strange, and better prepare the mind for the quiet contemjilation of the great sights wliich have subsequently to be examined — no small undertaking in a city where there is so much to see. To a person ac- customed to tlie moving crowds of London or Paris, the frequently quiet and deserted appearance of the vast squares and spacious streets of St. Pet<}rsburg is peculiarly striking; and this is owing to the insulliciency of the population to fill the frame allotted to it. Such, however, is not the case in the Nevski, the Pegent-street of St. Petersburg, 4 versts {H m.j in extent, and nearly in a right line. Here all is life and movement, and no ten yards of ground are passed that do not present a scene or a subject that will arrest the attention of the stranger. It has been observed that the Nevski might be called Toleration-street, from the num- liussla. -18GS. ber of churches of divers persuasions hi it: Greek, Roman Catholic, Dutch, and Armenian. Here also will be seen the Kazan Cathedral, the Gostinnoi Dvor ^the Great Bazaar^, and one of the two great national theatres. The houses are magnificent, rising to 3 and 4 stories. The most agreeable hour to promenade the Nevski is the afternoon, when the ladies do their shopping, and the men go to look at the fair purchasers. Pedestrians always prefer the northern side, where the most fashionable shops are situated. The fjivourite promenade, hoTvever, in winter, is the Court Quay. The pleasure of a walk in the Nevski is qualified in summer by the dust, for there are no water-carts ; in winter this inconvenience is not felt, and during that season we think no capital in Europe can present a more singular, niitl in its way a more magnificent spectacle, than the display of sledges and costumes which crowd this street. The traveller is referred to the plan ft )r the names of the streets. The prin- cipal buildings are also marked on it, and they may be visited in the order in which they are here described. According to a census taken in 1864, the Pop. of St. Petersbui-g is .547,422. Sights of St. Petersbueg. 1. Isaac Cathedral (dedicated to St. Isaac of Dalmatian. — This edifice can- not fail to excite the admiration of those who appreciate grand propor- tions, a simple but lofty style of archi- tecture, and noble porticoes. The situation also is highly suitable, for it stands in one of the largest open spaces in the capital, surrounded by its finest buildings and monuments, and it will give the stranger some idea of what Russian quarries, mines, and workmen can produce. Nothing can exceed • F 76 Itoute 1. — St. Pefcrshnyg : Isaac Catlicdrah Sect. I. the simplicity 'f»f the model; no oriia- mcnt moots the eye; the iircliitect (IMons. MontterranVl) has left all to the impression to be produced l»y .stripondons proportions and costli- ness of material. On tlie spot \vl\ere the Isaac Church stands, tlic llus- sians had hecn at work upon a place of worship for the last century. Tlic original one was in wood, erected bylVter tlie Great in 1710, but this was subseiiueutly destroyed, and tl»e great Catherine connuenced another, wliich was iinished in 1801. This (Mlifice vanislied, however, in its turn, and the present magnificent structure has lieen erected in the ccau-se of three reigns, having been commenced in isfo, and consecrated 1S5S. To make a lirm foundation, a wliolo forest of l)iles was sunk in tlie swamjiy soil, at a cost of 200,000/., and a furthcM- outlay has recently been made in order to ]>rop ui)and prevent from sinking tliat ]>art of tlie cathedral whi<'h faces the river. Tlie present l)uilding is, as usual, in the form of a Cireek cross, of four e(pial sides, and each of tlie four grand entrances is approaclied from tlie level of the Vlarc by tlxrec broad llights of steps, each whole flight being composed of one entire piece of granite, formed out of masses of rock brought from Finland. These steps lead from the four siih'S of the building to the four chief entrances, each of which has a superb peristyle. Tile pillars of these ]ieristyles are 00 ft. high, and have a diameter of 7 ft., all magnificent, round, aial highly- polished granite? monoliths, from Fin- land. They are crowned with Corin- thian capitals of bronze, and support the enormous beam of a frieze formed of six fire-polished blocks. Over the peristyles, and at twice their height, rises the chief and central cupola, higher than it is wide, in the Byzan- tine proiiorti»)n. It is supported alst) by thirty pillars of smootii polished granit<', \vhich, although gigantic in themselves, look small compared to those below. The cupola is covered with copi)er overlaid with gold, and glitters like the sun over a mountain. From its centre rises a small elegant rotunda, a miniature repetition of the whole, looking like a chapel on the mountain-top. The whole edifice is surmounted by a far-seen golden cross,* Four smaller cupolas, resemlding the greater in every i)artieular, sfciiid around, and completer the harmony visible in every i)art. Tlie embellish- ments of the fa9adt? and windows have be malachite and lapis-lazuli pillars arc merely tubes of cast-inm on which the stone has been laid in mosaic work. The inmost shrine is placetl in a small circuLir t<'mplc, the Iace/. It was worked hy Messrs. Xi<'holls and riincke of the *" English Magazine" at St. Petersburg. "^Tlie walls andfioorare of jjolished marblesof various colours, which have been found in tlu! Kussian donunions, and the whole is raised on stei>s of jtolished ])ori)hyry. There is, perhaps, too much giMing about this very beautifnl work, but this is in ac<'or(lance with its i)ositiou in a (ireek church. It was ])resented t^» the Emperor by Prince I-)emid(»rt', wlhj prfK'ured the malachite from his mines in Siberia, and sent it to Italy t^) be worked ; its value is said to be a"s much as 1.000.000 of rubles. All the j)ictures on the walls are by Iiussian artists. Many of them are of mosaic work executed at a mann- fact^»ry close to the Academy of Arts, It is from the rotunda over the great dome that the traveller is recom- mended to view the cai)itjil on a bright and clejir day ; and in this ch, also he should, if S(> minded, witness some of the ceremonies of the Greek Church, The hours of Divine service are from to 8 A.M., 10 to 12, and from 4 to 0; and on Saturdays frt»m to 715 p.m. On holydays of the Church these hours are advanced by 30 nu'iiut^es. The singing is the most eftective portion of the service, and most of the j)rayers are intoned. The choristers of this cathedral rank in efliciency next aft^er those of the Court Chapel, whose re- hearsals may be attended on api)lica- tioii to the Director of the Scliool at the *" Singers' Bridge." In the cere- monies of the llussian Church, boys, as in our cathedrals, take the sojirano ])arts. Consideral^le exi>ense is in- curred for dee]> basses, the best voices being everywhere sought for and liberally remunerated. They arc not exactly for the choir, but for certain half-recitative solos, occasionally re- .-; :;nd tajiers in Russian churches is a pleasing custom ; the little fianie is so living a symbol of F 2 78 Route l.—St. Petersburg : Clergy. Sect. I. the contimicd life of the soul, and, be- yond all otlier material things, flame is the best representation of tlie spiritual. The Kussiaus have so closely adopted this idea tliat there is no interment, no baptism, no betrothin.ii:, in short, no sacred ceremony, without lamj) or tnper; fire is for them the i)ledge of the presence of the Holy Spirit ; and hence illuminations piny the most im- pijrtant part in the ceremonies of the Greek Church. The following: extract from the last edition of the * Encycloprcdia Britan- nica,' relative to the rites of the Russo- Greek Church, may here be read with advantage. '• The Greco-Russian Church guards vigilantly against the introduction of iiny doctrine open to tlie sliglitest suspicion of heresy, and has its own censorship and journals. It is also very observant of liierarchical subor- dination. Generally, liowever, the Russian clergy, althougli jealous of their dignity, have not the spiritual pride or priestcraft of the Roman Catholic order, attriluit^ble no doiil^t in part to the kindly national character, and in part to the liumanizing in- fluence of marriage, which prevents the overwhelming concentration <»f all the human passions into one single channel. The Greco-Russian Church is mostly antagonistic to the Roman Catholic, and diftcrs from it in the following essential particulars :— 1 . In not recognizing tlie primacy of tlie Pope. 2. In denying that the Holy Ghost proceeds from the Son (fih'o- que). 3. In rejecting a purgatory, pre- destination 'except in the omniscience of the Deity), indulgences, dispensa- tions, and works of supererogation, although admitting the intercession of saints by prayer. 4. It holds the necessity of complete sul)mersion of the body at baptism, unless in urgent cases, when even laymen and women may perform it ; but they must immerse the" infant with the baptismal words. ' In the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost,' if the infant can bear the immersion ; if not, then sprinkling or ablution is used. Should the priest arrive in time, he reads the supple- mentary prayers, and performs the mystery of anointing with chrism. 5. Whilst admitting the doctrine of transubstantiation in regard to the eucharist, it aflirms that the holy bread (irpoacpopa) must l)e leavened ; the wine and water being placed in the chalice ; and it is only at tlie prayer of transubstantiation that part of the afjnns is placed in the chalice. The element of wine with water is alone administered to children up to the age of seven, for fear of the elements being ejected or falling to the ground. (3. Another important distinction is that marriage is obligatory on the secular clergy, although monogamy is a strict tenet of the Church. A i)riest may continue to serve after his wife dies. 7. No instrumental music is allowed, l)ut vocal music forms a most attractive portion of the service. "This Church rejects all massive images of the Saviour or saints as idolatrous ; but pictures, mosaics, bas- reliefs, and, in short, all that is re- presented on a flat surfiice, is not hehl a violation of the law which says, ' Thou slialt not make unto thee any graven image ! ' Broadly stated, and besides .some of the pre- ceding tenets, the Greco-Russian re- ligion differs from the Anglican in so far as the latter Church approaches to the Lutheran. Tlie general har- mony, however, with the Anglican is greater than with any other church; ami several attempts have been made, but not successfully, to unite them, particularly in IT'ill Addresses still pass at intervals between the two Churches ; and independently of the Irvingitcs, the ritual of Hatherly's new community at LiveriX)ol so strongly resembles the Greek service that it has attracted the notice of the Russian synod. "There are four great fasts: — 1. Lent, or the great fa.st, between tlie carnival and Easter, of seven weeks' duration, and of which the first and last are the most rigidly observed, being more specially devoted to re- ])cntance, confession, and preparing for the sacrament; 2. The Petroff, Kussia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Church Service. 70 the the are or Peter's fast, before St. Peter's day, in June, of two to five weeks' duration, accordingly as Easter Sun- day falls ; 3. The Usponski, or Con- cei>tion fast, called by the people the (lospozinki, from the 1st to 15th August. 4. The Pliilii)ix)ff, or St. Phi- lip's fast, of six weeks be fore Christmas. Tlie first fast, or Lent, is the most rigidly observed. Besides the above, the Wednesday and Friday of every week are fast-days, and the common people scrupulously keep them all. Catechising and preaching are prac- tised, — the latter frequently, the former at set intervals. Coiitirmation is not jiractised, the chrism used at baptism lieing held to comprise a mystery, n-uderiiig that ceremony supereroga- tory. The Church festivals and saints' days, kept with Eastern splendour, are numerous, and consequently form drawbacks to the business of life, although they greatly relieve labouring classes. " The venerative feeling of jieople is jirofouitd, and they zealous church-goers, early and late, being due observers besides of all the outward forms of religion, in which the essence is sometimes ab- sorbed. There is, however, much genuine piety to be met with ; pil- grimages to monasteries are frequent among all classes ; donations, free gifts, offerings, and alms, being liber- ally bestowed by both rich and poor. There are no entrance-fees, no distinc- tions for great and little, no pews, no reserved places in Russian churches : the congregation stand : all are equal before God. The Sabbath is not much observed, except as a church-going day. The shojjs are shut during the hours of worship, but all jaiblic jilaces of amusement are afterwards thrown open ; visits are made, and business is but little aft'ected by obedience ti this salutary ordinance of the supreme lawgiver. "The Church service is performed in the ancient Church Slavonic, and the lower classes cannot therefore completely follow it, except as a thing they take for granted, although they comprehend its general signification. | The Bible, however, is now partly translated into the vernacular Russ. The congregation fervently join in the choral parts, the responses, and the ejaculations. This portion of the service, and the great pomp investing the whole system of worship, together with the procession of banners, pic- tured saints, and relics, have no doubt been the great means of originally impressing on a rude people the holy awe they entertiin for Tsar and Church ; which two, Avith them, are identical. Church service usually con- sists of the Vozglass, or call to wor- ship ; singing of psalms or hymns ; the Eldenia, a series of prayers, mostly intoned, for the welfare of the Church and her chiefs, for the peace and union of the Christian Churches, and for every sejiarate member of the imperial family ; the reading of the epistles and evangel ; choral and part singing of unexampled harmony; a sermon, always in the common language, ex- plaining the evangel read; prayers, preparing for the Communion, and during which the priest prepares him- self; the consecration of the elements, and the administration of the sacra- ment, which the clergyman takes every time, and the congregation at will ; then, thanksgiving for the sacra- ment, and ])arting benediction ; the chantingand incense-burning through- out behig frequent. Asperging with holy water is also used. The Old Testament is read only during even- ing service, which is intended to prepare for the morning or principal service, and it therefore has a i)ro- phetic tendency, the psalms and hymns being all appropriate. The morning service represents the fulfilment of these projihecies. Service much of the same kind is often performed — sometimes exorcisms too — at i»rivate houses, on special occasions ; and the remembrance-service, or rominJci, forty days after a person's death, is a pious custom ; as is that of the yearly visita- tion of family graves, altliough this often degenerates into revelling. It is another laudable custom of the Rus- sians to remove their hats, in the streets, before all funerals that pass. 80 Boute 1. — St. Petei-fihurt/ : Kazcni C<(t1icclraL Sect. I. I-'.vcry Kussinu is oblip^cd to take the .saon\meiit at least oiioo a year. '•The ealendar in use is the Julian or ( Jreek, which is twelve days behind tlie (ircf^orian or Lathi. The anta<»-onisni of tlie two Chmvhes is perhaps the ehief objection to ;i reform in this respect. Tlic superstitious Ix'liL'f of tlie comnion peo])le in «i;ood and bad spirits, in house-speetres, forest and water demons, is fast h too much cndeiUT is .still uivtii to omens and witchcraft." 2. Kazan Cathedral, dedicated to ( )iir Lady of Kazan. Tliis »'h. stands in the Nevski Per- -|.»'ctiv<-, and will bo easily recognised \>y its roloiuiudc in imitalion of St. Vctcr's ;it Knnie. It was founded in 1802, and roiiMriatfd in 1811, after an outlay of about 000.000/. Built {>][ piles, it has the shape of a cross, witli a lengtli of 238 ft. between its extremities, and a breadth of 182 It. The eui)ola and cross rise more than 230 ft. above the ground. Inside the cli, a colonnade extends iji 4 rows from tlie 4 j)illars which sui)poit tlie cupola towards the altar and the 3 jirincipal doors of the cathedral. It consists of 50 monoliths of Finland granite, 35 ft. in height, n-sting on bronze bases and terminating in Corinthian capitals of the same metal. The ikonostas is of silver, as well as the balustrade in front. An inscrij)- tioii on it states that the silver of which it is made was a *' zealous oti'er- ing of the Don Cossacks," after the campaign of 1812. The name of the Ahnighty is rendered in jirccious stones, in the centre of the j)rincii»al door of the screen ; the glory around is only gilt. The miraculous image of the Virgin, brought from Kazan in 1579 and removed to St. Petersburg in 1S21. will bo seen in the ikonostas, covered with fine gold and i)recious stones valued at more than 15.000/. The huge sapphire was jiresented by the Grand D.uchess Catherine Pav- lovna. The other iiaintings are by Russian academicians. Four immense candelabra of silver stand before the ]>rincipal altar-.screen. The ])ulpit, the imperial .seat, or rather stand, and the ri(M»r are of coloured marble, with steps of highly jiolished jasper. The tatub of (Jenertd Knfuxnff-Siaa- h-rnhn will be .seen under the trojdiies of wars with France, Turkey, and Persia. He lies buried on the si)ot where he jirayed before .setting out to meet the enemy in 1812. The baton of Davoust, Prince of Kckmuhl, and the keys of many fortresses, are, sus- pended against tlu^ jiillars of this military-looking cathedral. Among the keys are those of Hamburg, Leip- sic, Dresden, Ilheims, Preda, and Utrecht. In front of the cathedral are two well-executed .statues ; one of Kutusotl of Smolensk, the .. then. f (General P>ar- clav ile Tollv. 3. Whiffii- Ptilafc. — Having inspect^rd the two nearest and ])rinciiial churches, the traveller is advised to view the several j^alaces and tiieir treasures. The ]\'int('r I'ahar, the residence of the Emj)eror and his court during winter, stands on the left bank of the Neva, on the site of a house which in the reign of Peter the ( treat belonged to his High Admiral, C<»unt Ajiraxin, who be(|ueathe«l it to the Emjieror IVter II. The Fmpress Anne, after l)eing crowned jit Moscow, took uj) her residence in Apraxin's house, but had it i)uned down in 1754 and rebuilt by Count Pastrelli, l>y whom it was comi»leted in 1702, in the reign of the Empr(>ss Catherine. A contlagration, which is supi)osed to have origuiated in some defe<'t in the stoves, consumed the whole interior of the building in December, 1837, notwithstanduig every effort made to save it. It soon, Russia. Route 1.— St. Petersbmr/: Winter Palace. 81 however, rose again from its embers. In 1830 the AVinter Palace was en- tirely restored. The huge pile is now four stories high, or about 80 ft. The frontage is 455 feet in length, and the breadth 350 feet. The principal en- trance, or " Perron des Ambas.sa- deurs," is from the Neva, and leads })y a magniiiceiit flight of marble steps to the state apartments of the jialace. A gateway in the centre of the building, facing Alexaiah-r's Co- lunui,oj)ens into a large court. Visitors, after procuring a ticket,* are admitted by an entrance to tlu; right of that gateway. One of the Im])erial servants will conduct them thr<»ugh the several ai^artments, of which the most magni- ficent are — the Throne-room of Peter I., where the di]domatic corps gene- rally ]iresent their coiiLcratulations on New Year's Day; the White Hall; th.- Hall of St. (ieorge. a parallelo- gram of 140 ft. by 00; the (Jallery of the Field-marshals, with jx.i-traits of thits«- who fougliL against the French, iiicliiiling the Duke of Wellington; and the Alexandt-r (Jallery, with the portraits of the generals who resisted the French invasion in 1812, executed by our cmprcKs, of ^vlJici^ the "walls and the ceiling are gilded. The light of day can however scarcely do justice to all the magnificenco which will be shown to the visitor. The art of illnnnnating at night is nowhere so well known as in Russia, and candles are still happily pre- ferred to gas. No court in Europe l)resents such a l)rilliant aj)pearanco as that of Russia seen in the Winter Palace. Tlie arrangements are on the most sumi)tuous scale, and sit-down snjipers are always supjdied at a ball, whatever the number of the invited may be. One of the larger halls is sctmetimes converted into a garden of delicious verdure by the introduction of exotic i)lants and fruit-trees. On such occasions two rows of tables extend down the r(K)m, each over- shadowed by a beautiful tree in full leaf, under which the dames and tiieir cavaliers, in groujjs of eight, partako Eussia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Crown Jeicels. 83 of an elegant supper after the fiitigues of the waltz and the Mazurka. An Imperial table, raised and apart, com- mands the whole view. iVftcr passing through the state ai)a'-tments and galleries the visitor will be taken to sec the Romanolf Portrait Gallery, which contiiins tlie likenesses of all the Sovereigns of the reigning House since IMichael Fe- dorowitch, and those of their consorts. Peter the Great will be seen suspended in many frames. At the door of this gallery, to the right on entering, ob- serve a green curtain driiwn over a tablet. It conceals the rules which Catherine enforced at her conversazione in the Hermitage, which begins here. The following is a translation of those rules : — 1. Leave your rank outside, as well as your bat, and especially your sword. 2. Leave your right of precedence, your pride, and any ^imiiar feeling, out>ide the door. 3. Be gaj', but do not spoil anything; do nut break or gnaw anything. 4. Sit, stand, walk as you will, without refer- ence to anybody. 5. Talk moderately and not very loud, so as not to make ihe ears and heads of others ache. C. Argue without anger and without cxcitc- niky, an unfortunate native poet, whose muse was thus reviled. Before going down stairs to see the room in which Nicholas I. died, ask to see the Crown Jewels, deposited iu a room on the 2ud floor. Crown Jewels. — The great Orloff dia- mond surmounts the Imperial sceptre of Russia, and is a worthy ornament for the endilem of a dominion so ex- tensive. This splendid diamond was an acquisition made in the reign of Catherine II. Its previous history has been represented by stories, not only dilierent, but contradictory. One tra- dition rife in Russia and tlie neigh- bouring Asiatic countries has sought to exiiluinthe great dift'erence between the weight of the Koh-i-noor and the original weight of a vast diamond which belonged to Shah Jehaun, with which it was confounded by Tavernier, on the supposition that the Koh-i-noor and a slab now at Kokan are the severed fragments that once combined to form that huge diamond of 793 carats, and it has even been suggested that tiie Orloff diamond formed once a part of the same stone. Tavernier, however, mentions that this stone was ruined in the process of cutting, while the true history of the Koh-i-noor goes back to at least the time of Baber ; whereas Bernier describes the huge diamond alluded to as having been found in Golconda in the time of Shah Jehaun. Furthermore, the Orloff diamond exhibits to a practised eye a faint tint of . greenish yellow, while the Koh-i-noor is colourless. The most authentic of the many stories about the diamond appears to be this. It once formed the eye in an idol in a temple at Seriugham, near Trichino- l)oly, in India. Into this temple a French renegade soldier introduced himself in a menial capacity, and took his opportunity to despoil the idol of its precious eye. Escaping to Malabar with his prize, he sold it to a ship's cai)tain for a sum of 2000 guineas, from whom a Jew acqiiired it for 12,000 guineas. An Armenian mer- chant. Lazareft' (called in one account Scliafras , purchased it from the Jew, and olfeved it for sale at the ctiurt of the Russian Empress. Catherine II. F 3 84 Boute 1. — St. PrterHhurg : Crown Jeicels. Sect. I. •lid not accept the; tcnus of the Aiiiu'- iiian, and lie boro it ])ack to Anister- dani. It was lierc tlmt tho namo of Orlolt became associated with that of the spkMidid jewel ; ibr the famous Count purdiased it, and laid it as a .nift at the feet of his Imperial mistress. The })rico is stated to have been 450.000 silver rubles, a life annuity of 2000 rubles, and a patent of no- bility. Another account makes it a part of the spoils of Nadir Shah, and an ornament in the throne he took from the Moj;ul Emperor; antl the traditional French grenadier in tliis account escapetl with it at the death of that conqueror. This, however, is evidently only an echo or a tradition of the authentic story of Achmet Shah and tlie Koh-i-noor, and tho history as j2;iven above would seem to l)e tlie most authentic. The En^'lish jewel- lers call the is surmounted by a large sa])])iure. of a rich but .slightly greenish blue cohtur, with a large (liani<»nd <»f tlu- finest water, and of elongated form. The coronet of the Empress is perhaps the most beautiful mass i>f diamonds I'ver l»rought together into a single ornament. Four of tlie largest of these stones are of perfect beauty, and beside these are 16 or 18 similar to them, but of somewhat smaller dimensions; tiiere are 70 or 80 other diamonds of no less exquisite water, and the whole are surrounded and set witli a great number of stones, fit in j)oint «if quality to be associated with them. Besides these cf)stly emblems o{' royalty there are several other sj)eci- mens of jewellery wortliy to bear th«»m I'ompany. One of these is a diamond nei'khn'e, each stone of it worth ;ui argosy. com]>osed of 22 single vast diamonds, from wliich 1") huge j)eml«'nt .stones are sui)ported. Tlu' i)lume (»f Suvoroff, an aigrette composi'd entirely of diamonds, was one of tho.se gifts which the wealtliy but weaker neighbour makes to the man of strength. It was jiresented by the Sultan of Turkey to the conquering Kussian general. Another o( these memorials f»f tho res])ect entertjiined for Kussia by her Mohammedan neighbours is the un- mounted but beautiful diamond pre- sented by the younger son of Abbas Mirza to the EnqKror of Russia on the occasion of his visiting tin- im- perial court. It is named '* tlie Shah." It is a long crystal of diamond weigh- ing 3G carats, and but very little altered by cutting from its original form. It has, moreover, Persian characters engravereserved as crown jewels are .several btrings of truly Imperial pearls, a fine spinel ruliy, and an order of St. An- drew, with five i)ink diamonds and two large Siberian ))eryls or aqua- marines, one of the greenish, and one of tile mor(! blue tint, mounted in diamonds. Itouiii ill It'll tch NirJiohts T. dud. — A melancholy interest attaches to tliis room, whicji will be shown last to the visitor. On a narrow iron camp bed- stead, in the smallest and ])laiiust ai)artnient oi' the va.st Palace, tlie iMuperor Nicholas expired on the 2nd ]March, 185."». lie was sutlering from inrtuenza. and had just heard of the nnsnccessfnl attack upon l^ipatoria, and his st»'rn, judud sjtirit refused to .submit to any further «arthly ills. His gray military cloak lies folded on the hanl bed. His sword and helmet are where \w. left theii>. On the table is tlu! report <»f ihe Qnartermastei- (»eneral <»n the strength uf tlie llun>e- intld trooj».>, delivered to the Km|ten>r oil the morning of the day he died. The simplicity anauiil is that of the l>arrack-rooiii. The elegance of art and the luxury of civilization are alike absent. The apjtnrtenanees of the toilet, still in their place, are few and simple. A peculiarity of habit will ])(' observed in the pockit-haialker- ehiefs, which lie on every available article of furniture. A Gnnadier of the (Jolden (iiiard of the Palace is always on duty over these relics of the '• nt'ver-to-be-lbrgotten Tsar." 4. 21ir IIerm'dreference to that of the lienaissaiice, Avliich would have been more in keep- ing with the buildings in the imme- diate vicinity : V»ut for elegance, jnirity (»f aiciiitecinral ibrms, and for tho beauty as Well as co;*tliness of the mat^-rials employed, this museum has scarct4y any equal in i^irojte. It forms a i)aralleh»grain ol."* ft. by oT.?. with two large courts, and is a}>proaclied 1)y a noble vestibule, sup- jtorted by ten' figures, of a hard grey granite, measuring 22 ft. with their pe«U-stals. Statues of cilebrated painters, sculptors, and other artists, ancient and modern, fill nmnerous niches in the walls, to which an ex- cellent a])pearauce of stone has been given. The roof of the hall is sup- ported by IG cohunns, mcmoliths of the finest granite from Finland, ter- minating in capitals of Carrara marble. The .stairs, in three fiights, are of marble, Init the walls on either side are only scagliola. A gallery runs, round thetq) of the .staircase, adorned with twenty monoliths of grey granite. In this stand 10 marble statues : Cain and Abel, by l)upre; a Bacchante, by lUenaime; and others. Two magni- ficent .stands for candelabra of the finest violet jasper from Siberia stand at the doors at each end of the gallery. 86 Bou'e 1. — St. Peterslurg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. Sect. I. Russia. Route I.— St. Petersburg : TJie Hermitage ; Pictures. 87 It is 'advisable to begin with the picture galleries on the tirst tl(X)r, leaving the museiims below for a «iib- sequeut visit. First Floor. Picture Galleries. — The Herniitnge Gallery is chiefly co]ni)osed of three celebrated C(»llections.— 1. That of jNIr. Crozat, Biiron de Thiers. 2. The Wal- pole Collection, purchased in 177D for 35,000/. The best i)ictures* in tlie jiallery are from Houghton Hall; viz., tS'J Itidian, 75 German, 7 Spanish, and .5 English. 3. Eleven pictures from the Choiseul Gallery, purchased for 107,001 livrcs. Many other additions have subsequently been made. Thirty- eight pictures of the Mnluiaison Collection, formed by the Empress Josephine, were bought in 1S14 for 940,000 francs, many of them hrving belonged to the Lnndgraves of Hesse and Cassel, spoliated by the French in 1806. The Spanish Gallery of IMr. W. G. Coesvelt, banker at Amsterdam, was acquired in 181 1 for 8700/. ; and Dr. Crichton, an English resident at St. Petersburg, afterwards knighted, sold to this gallery seven of the pictures in his collection. On the death of tlie Queen Hortense of Holland, thirty of the best pictures of the collection passed over t<5 the Hermitage for the sum of 180,000 francs. TJio Darbarigo Col- lection was i)urehased by the EmiKror Nicholas in 1850, as well as some hue ])ictures from the celebrated gallery of the late King AVilliam II. of Holland. From the Soult C<'llecti()n tlie Her- mitage possesses a Sebastian del Piom- bo (No. 17), a Zurbaran (340), and a Murillo (373). The most recent ad- ditions are the fresco ])ictures jiur- chased by INIr. Guedc'onoif in 1801, at tlie same time as part of thc^ Canq)ana Museum. The Hermitage Gallery at jiresent contains 1035 pictures, selected from \ * The letter W. will (U-note these whenever tbey occur in the obse;^•utiuus that follow. amongst more tlum 4000 specimens, the remainder being distributed in the several palaces. The Italian school is represented in the gallery by 331 pic- tures, the Spanish by 1 1 5, tlie Flemish, Dutch, and German by 044. the Eng- lish by 8, the French by 172, while the specimens of native art are 65 in number. It is more especially rich in tlie Spanish and Flemish Collections, having no less than 20 Murillos and G Velasquez, GO lUibens. 34 Van Dycks, 40 Teniers, 10 Van der Heists, 41 Kembrandts, 50 Wouwermans, Potters, 40 Jacob Ivuvsdaels, and an 7 •■ equal numlter of Snyders. This is, moreover, the only gallery on the Continent that contains a collection of English pictures. The Hermitage C< Election was care- fully examined and brought into its present perfect order in 18G1 and 18(i2 by the learned and celebrated critic Dr. Waagen, of Berlin, who.se work, ' Die Gcniuldesammlung in der Kaiser- lichen Ermitage zu St. Petersburg ' (jMuuich, 1864), contains mo.st valu- al)le informatifni respecting the i)ie- tures of the Hermitage. The rooms in which the pictures are placed are descrilxid in the order in which they should be visited.* The (iailery of Historical Painting at the top f>f the staircase need not arrest much attention. The frescoes on the walls re]»resent the jirogress of Grecian art. There are eiglit good specimens of modern sculpture by Vitali, Giithe, Houdon (INIadame Du Barri as Diana). Bienaime', and others. The vases and tables of pori)hyry and malachite are as it were an introduc- tion to the magniiiceiit .'^i)eeiniens in- side. Room II. — (The numbers are marked over the inner doors in Poman nu- merals : vide })lan.) Earger iiictures of Ifdlian School. (Beginning opposite the door leading from the staircase.) * The * Catalogue do la G.ilerie dt s Tableaux,' by Baron di; Ktehne, muy be had of the imrior, and Very gc.od photugrajilis of llse bs-t piciurts may be jirorureil fiom M. lia'ijcr, Cuurt book- seller, Ncvsky, No. 5. )< No. 60, Holy Virgin, by Francia.* 73, St. Sebastian, by Luini. 145, Dead Clirist attended Ijy Angels, one of the few pictures by Paul Veronese painted with any .sacred feeling. 18, Descent from the Cross, a rare jiicture of great value by Sebastian del Piombo, i)ur- chased for 20,000 florins, from collec- tion of late King of Holland. 50, Adoration of the Shepherds, l»y Garo- falo. 61, Chri.st carrying his Cross, by same artist, life-size figures, with very line and characteristic heads, 80, Portrait of an Artist, by Domenico. 135, Perseus and Andro- meda, a very fine Tintoretto ; the figure of Andromeda for colour and beauty of form is equal to the finest elibrt of Titian. 121, Jupiter and lo, by Schiavone, remarkable for its landscape background. 133, the Pe- surrection, by Tintoretto; original de- sign, in small propf>rtions, of the enormous picture at Venice, and illus- trative of his later decorative style. 181, David with the head of (loliath, by Guido Keni, with dark sliadows in style of Caravaggio. Above it, 106, Christ being anointed for the Sepul- chre, a fine si)ecimen of Lodovico Caracci (W.). 187, Dispute of the Doctors, a capital picture by Guido Peni, of whicli the engraving l)y Sharp is so well known (W.). 180, Cupid, by Domenicliino. 184, Repose in Egyi)t, and 185, Saint Francis, are ])eautiful works of the same period by Guido : the expression of trust and rei)ose, the harmony, clearness, and warmth of the cok)ur, render 184 one of the most attractive of that artist's pictures. 101, the Virgin at School, also l)y (Juido, is much admired for the grace and childlike inno- cence of the group engaged in needle- work. There are 11 pictures by Sal- vator Rosa in this room, 5 of whicli, 220 to 223 and 225, are from the * It will suffice in most cases to mention the iiuml)er of the y.icture and the painter lo whom we desire to attract attention. Criticism may be considered out of place in a handlxjuk ; the traveller will form his own judtinK'nt of these works of art, but at the same time we shall endeavour to point out the most remarkable l.ioiures, wiili the addition of any information mat may make them iiitcrebtiug to EnglL-hmeii. AVal. Coll. No. 220, the Prodigal Son, was one of the treasures of that gallery. 215, Ecce Homo, by Caravaggio, painted in a colder tone than liis Young Man singing and playing the Guitar (217), which is more transparent in the shades than usual with that master. 230, Portrait of an Actor, by Domenico Feti. 310, Doge of Venice marrying the Adriatic, by Canaletto. 318 (pendant to 310) represents the Reception at Venice of Count Gergi, Ambassador of Louis XV., a magnificent and most interest- ing work by that master. 307, Por- trait of Pope Clement IX. by Carlo Maratta (\V.). 317 (above), the Feast of Cleopatra, who is seen dissolving the I'earl, by Tiepolo, one of the best and largest pictures of that artist. 255, St. Cecilia, by Carlo Dolci, in the style of the famous picture in the Dresden Gallery, but superior to it in the pleasuig drawing of the head ; and 254, St. Catherine, also by Carlo Dolci ; heads very well drawn. The malachite tables and vases are very handsome. The 4 candelabra are of violet jasper. Room III.— Flemish School. The collections of this School begin appro- priately with rich and numerous speci- mens of Rubens and Van Dyck, of which many of the best come from the Walpole Collection. Beginning on the rt. hand : 543, ^lary Magdalene washing the Saviour's feet, is the principal picture, by Rubens, in the Hermitage (AV.) ; there is a copy of it by Jordaens in the next room. 535, the Exi)ulsion of Hagar, a perfect gem, by Rubens ; a sketch of this same picture is in the Gros- venor Gallery. 020 is a portrait that will interest every Englishman; it is that of Inigo Jones, by Van Dyck (W.). GIG," Portrait of Philip Lord Whart^^tn at the age of 19, by yan Dyck (W.). G12, Archbishop Laud, by the same artist (W.). G33 and G34 are portraits of English ladies by the same great master. G27, P(»rtrait of the painter Snyders and his Wife. On the .same wall is, 57G, Portrait of Helen Fourment, Rubens' second wife, 88 Iloiife 1. — St. Petersburg : TJie Hermitage, Sect. T, PLAN OF THE riCTURl-: (JALLERIES AT THE HERMITAGE, STAIRCASE OF COUNCIL FRENCH CCtiOOU. nnir, TX...... .w^ Ptussia. Boutel. — St. Petersburg : Tlie Kermitage ; Pictures. 89 by her famous hu.sljniul. This most graceful lull-leuj;th ligiiro is fre- quently copied ; tlie same head will Ixj fouud in the ])icture culled the ChajKniu de raillc in Sir K(»hert i'eel's colh'otioii (W.). Very close to it on tlie rt. is, GOJ). Iviiii;; Charles 1., .sip;ned '• p. t^r. Aiit. Vundike;" for this ]»icture Van Dyck rect^ived 25/. (ilO. Queen Henrietta Maria is the jieuihud to it, l>oth being I'rom tlie JIought«jn Collection. «)0:i is tlie cele- brated Vierge anx IVrdreaux, l)y Van Dyck, so called from the two jtar- tridges seen Hying away. The beauty of the gn^ip of ehildri'U is remark- able (W.); 018, al»ove the portrait of Henrietta INIaria arc portraits of thi^ Ladies Elizabeth and Phila- delphia Wharton, also by Van Dyck (W.). Tlu; grim figure of the Knrl • d" Danby, i)ainted Ijy tin- same master, will be seen in GIO (W.). 017, Sir Thomas Whart75 (near the door on entering), JiUbeiis' wife at a later period, painted by liuUns : the dnss and gold eliain art' the same in lM>tli pietures. Gl I is a jdeasiug jxatrait «»f WilUam 11. of Nassau, Prince of Orange, when a b(»y. by Van Dyck (W.). 549, Venus and Adonis, a rejx'tition by liubens of tia- l)icture on panel at the Hague. 551. a Bacchanalian Scene, )»y the same artist, is in his mostsitiritvd style; the satvrs are such as only liubens could liavi- imagined (W.). G20, Portrait oL" Sir Thomas Chaloner, by Van Dyck (W.). Go2, i'ortrait t)f a gentleman, by Van Dyck, is a line specimen (»f his \YarmeEt etdouring, probably painti'd at (icnoa. Git is a sketch by Van Dyck of the celebrated largt* picture of the Pembroke Family at Wilton ; the Jvirl of Carnarvon has another skcteh of it. 621) is a line jiortrait by Van Dvck. There are 2 candelabra and o tazza of violet Siberian jasper in this room. lloom I. — Spanish SrhooL The best and most varied e(»llecti(jn of Si)anish pieturis out of Spain. On the l.ft-hand wall then} are no h-ss than IS pictures by Murillo. Begin with 3ui), the Holy Family, a perfect little gem, but ol)Scured by the .shad(»w whieh falls irom its heavy frame (W.). .".75, Celestine and her Daughter in ])rison at S(^ville. 3G4, Ad(»ratitni of tlu- Shepherds ; interesting sketch and variation of the same subject in the (Jallery at Seville. 3G0, Benedic- tion <»f Jacob ; itf^pciithdit, 350, Jacob's Dream, is perhaps one of the most picturesque productions of the artist. 372, Angel delivering St. Peter ; from the Sonlt Collection, l.'nder it is one of the most lovely in.si)irations of this great artist, the llepose in Egypt (3G7). 3G5, St. Joseph. 379, St. John, a contemi)oraneous copy of the cele- l»rated picture in the National (Tiallery in London. 37S, a Peasant Girl, and 377, a young Beggar, are pendants. 3G3, Ad(H'ation of the Shepherds, a specimen <»f the early style of the mas- ter (^V.). 3G2, the Conception, treatc-d in the samo grand manner as the large picture at Seville. Leaving the Mu- riUos for the present, kxik at 349, St. Lawrence, a very chiiracieristic speci- jiieii of Fraueisctt Ziul>aran ; but a rarer and more i»leasing example of the master will 1m' seen in 348, repre- senting the Holy Virgin as a child. 397, a sleephig Child, is by Antolinez. in the clear tender tones of Murillo. 371, the Assumption l»y Murillo (W.). In this beautilul picture the Virgin has the same youthful form as in the celebrated picture of the Sala Isabella at INIadrid, to wliich for grace and ])urity of expression it yields in no- thing, while the action of floating in mid-air, and the eifect of immense depth beneath the buoyant clouds on which the lovely group of children are lM)rnc upwards witii the Virghi, were never Itetter rendered. 373, Appari- tion of the Infant Jesus to St. Francis of Padua, mu.4 conclude our mention of the jjictures liy Murillo. The best of Vela.scpiez's, out of the G, are 419 and 420, Portraits of Philip IV. of Spain, and 421 and 422, those of his ^Minister, d'Olivarcs. The full-length j)ortraits came here from tlie Hague; 418, Pt»pe Innocent X., is a spirited portrait, also by Veln.tjuez, from the 90 Ttoutel. — St. Pefcrslmrg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. Sect. I. AValp. Coll. 331. Death of St. Sebas- tain, by Ribeira. The stands for caiitlelabra of large masses of rose-coioured porphyry or rhodonite, and vases, tazza, and tables of lapis lazuli in this room, arc re- markably haudsome. RaphaeVs Frescoes. — The nine fres- coes in this room (which may bo entered from the gem-room) were mitil IHoGon the walls of the ground-floor of the Villa Mdls (Villa Sj)a(la) on ]Mount Palatine, at Ixome. Tiiey were pur- chased with the Campana Museum in 18G1. Mr. GuedeonotY, the talented purchaser of tliat collecticm for the llussian Government, considers these tine paintings to have been executed by Raphael and liis pupils l)etween tiie years 1512 and 1515. The great master probably made the sketches and only superintended tlic i)ainting. Professor Waagen considers that Xos. 47, 48, 49, 51, and 53 are by the hand of Giulio Romano. Tlie Abduc- tion of Helen (No. 55) is a celebrated composition, frequently repeated on majolica, as seen in the Campana col- lection in the Louvre, in the Bernal collection at the British ■Museum, and in Mr. Abingdon's collection. Waagen fcays it must have been painte(l ])y one of Raphael's best scholars, for it was a favourite subject with the great mas- ter, as evident from the drawings at Chatsworth and Oxford. It was de- tached from the wnll of Raphael's villa near the I'orta Pinciana. Room IV. — 1, Holy Virgin, l)y Ve- rocchio, marks the early epocii of tlie Italian Scliool, as also doi'.s 2, another Holy Virgin, by Roselli. No. 8, Infant Jesus, by Lo Spagna. The most llou- risliing period of Italian painting is represented in tlu^ following: No. 24, Holy Family, a very line picture by Andrea del Sarto, superior to the du- plicate in tlic National (itallery. No. 17, Christ carrying his Cross, by Se- bastian del Piombo, on slate; (jue of the finest pictures from the Soult col- lection. No. 11), Portrait of Cardinal Pole, by tlie same artist. Th(! Floron- tine School is well supported ])y No. 14, the Holy Family, by Leonardo da Vinci ; this bears a striking resem- blance to Foster's well-known " Vierge au bas-relief." But the oldest and finest picture by this master has just been ])urchased of the Duke di Litta of Milan :— 14a, '' The Holy Virgin suckling the Infant Jesus" (on a stand near the window). No. 15, Portrait of a lady, by the same painter (W.). No. 22, Nativity of Jesus, by Granacci; one of his best works. One of the most remarkable objects in this room is an unfinished sketch of a small crouching figure in marbk* by ]\L Angelo, called the Tour de Force, evidently rough hewn from the stone, without model or preparation. That a ligure of tliis size could 1)0 produced from a small block of marVde, not larger than would be required ibr a full-sized bust, is extraordinary enough ; but the position seems pur- posely to have been chosen by that great genius, in sport as it were wMth the greatest difficulties; while at the same time it may have served to dis- ]»lay his knowledge of tlie Torso of the Vatican, or his idea of the orighial position of that celebrated fragment. It is also said to be the result of a wager. Room V. is attractive on account of its Rajihaels. On a stand near the window will be seen a lx.'autiful little l)icture (3D), by that great master, re- iJivsentiiig St. (lieorge and the Dragon : it was painted in 150G l)y order of the Duke e. Thert^ are specinu'iis of Paul Potter in the Jlerniit;ig(i; lOill. 1052, and 1055 are from the ]Maliiiais<»u CoHection. Teniers. — {'»'.)'.), Kitchen seizt'd hv Alonkeys. ((72. tlie Ar(|Uel)Usiers of Antweri). 'j'he iigures are mostly por- traitsof the period ; Teniers himself is hciiig admitted m(!nd)er of the corjis. I'etween tliese two screens will he I'ound (!very descrij»lion of ])ictLire that 'I'eniers painted — landscapes, cattle, historical jtortrait^. and even a sea- piece (710). (JO'.I :iiid 070 are laiid- sesipcs hy Truieis tli<- elder. 70S and 70r>. in circular frauu's.hv the ve»un!.rer Teuiers. are pleasing suhjects, cliariii- inulv tnateil. 07o. the < iuardliouse, l)aiiite nume- rr to the right leads to the apartments (»f the old IIermit;ige ( Flench gallery — reached IVom the Gem rictnrts in the gallery : in 12 compartments it represents dif- ferent sporting subjects, and in 2 others the ultimate revenge of the animals on the cruelty of man : I, St. nul>ert; 2, Ctairsing; o, Diana and ActsDon (painted by C. I'oelenburg); 4, Chamois-liunter ; 5, Ferreting; 0, liear-hnnt ; 7. Leo])ard aljout to sjtring into a traj*, attracted by his»»wn relKc- tion in a h)oking-glass placed witliin it; 8, Catching INIonkeys by means ol' a di.sh of gum-water, with wlii«*U they glue their eyes in imitation of men washing; 9, AVolf-iiunting ; 10, Doar- hunt; 11, Lion-hunt; 12, Ihill-bidting. The upper centn; compartment shows the hunter caught and brought to judgment before tlu^ lion. whoprc,-,i(les. surrouiuh'd by his conns«41ors; tlu- fox acting as clerk. The bear i>erforms tla; office of head constsible, and a wolf on €iach side of the huntsman keep him in safe custody. A bear aial a boar aic briiiging up two braces of houmls, the accomplices of man, while the stag- stands jiroudly waiting to givit evi- dence. The si-nleiict! of death is car- ried out in the lower a limited nuniber of guests. The view of the jiver from the windows is mostcharm- ing. A ]»ortrait of Cath(.'rin»! II., by Tijimpi, the l>est ever made, is sus- pended in this rtMtm. together with ihat of the cons»u-t of the hlmperor l':iul. hy ]Mlue. Ii<'brun. Koom XIH. I'liijh'yli tSchotil nud UcmhrdiidCs Oullenj. — The tirst small < om]»artment is devoted to Fnglish l»ietures. Conspicuous amongst these isi:>01, the Infant Hercules strangling the Serpents, iiainted for the Knqtress Catherine II. by Sir Joshua Keynolds. It is an allegory of Russia vanquish- ing the ditiiculties which beset its youthful stiite. This ])icture. thiished tw(» years before his death, was paint<'d by order of the Empress Catherine, whose commission was unlimited botii in subject and in price. The [jrice ])aid for it was 1500 guineas. So«»n after the i»icture arrivetl at St. Petersburg, Count Woronzow, the Ilussian ambas- .sador, waited on Sir J. Ihynolds to inform him that the empress had re- ceived the picture, as well as two sets of his Discourses, one in F^nglish smd (»ne in F^reiich. which, at the desire of 11. I. M. had been sent with the pic- ture. This message was accomi)aiiied by a gold snuft'-box, with the empress's ])ortra it encircled with large diamonds. The ambas.sador also left with Sir Josliua a copv of the following h-t- ter ;— ";Monsieur Ic Conite Woronzow— I have read, and T'may say with the greatest avidity, the Discourses pro- nounced at the lioyal Academy of Lon- don by Sir Joshua lleynolds. which that illustrious artist sent me with his large picture; in both ]>rfKluctions a most elevat«'d genius may easily be traced. I recommend vou to give my thanks to Sir Joshua, and to remit to him the box I send as a testimony of the great satisfaeti<»n the jjcrusal of his Dis- courses has given me, and which I kK»k upon as perhajis the l>est work that ever was written on the subject. y\y ]>ortrait, which is (»n the cover of the hox. is of a compositi«»n made at my Hermitiige. where they are now at work aliont impressions (»n the stones found there. " I expect you will inform me of the large i)icture of the subject of which 1 have already spoken to you in an- another letter. Atlieu I wish you well. (Si -lied) Catherine. St. Peters- burg. :\lareh .">. 1700." Th(^ large ]»icture here referred to may l)e No. 1U02, the Continence of Seipio. which was proliably sent to St. Petersburg after his death, as it is still in an unlinished state. This may be seen in the arms of Seipio and in the hands of another figure, which show in an interesting manner Sir Joshua's mode of i)ainting ; the shadows being laitl on in a green tone, ju-eparatory to the warm glazing with which he so suc- cessfully imitated the glowing t^aies of the Venetian School. l;*0:». Dido and jMuas, ill a landscape equal to one of Wilson's finest, by Thomas Jones (17:{0-1790). 1:^90. Cu])id unl(«)siiig the (iirdh'. of Venus. This i)icture, l>ainted for Prince Potemkiu lor 100 guineas, is the portrait of a ])retty F]nglishw(»man. wlio.sc obliquity of vision is artfully concealed by the position of her hand. There are two rejH'titions of this }»ictiin' in Kngland. 1H80 is an interesthig portrait of the scul])tor Grinling (^iil^boiis, by Sir (iodfrey Kneller, who also painttnl 1!>S8. a likeness of Locke; both from the Walpole Collection. 1387, Por- trait of Abraham Van der Dort, by Dobson (W.) ; and 1380, Oliver Crom^ well, by Pvobert Walker (1000-1658). 94 Boide 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. Sect. I. The pictures arraiip:ed on the rc- maiiiiug screens in Room XIII. now chxim attention : they are ehielly by Rembrandt. We particularise some of tlie liuest, but all are worthy of atten- tion. Nowhere can this <^reat master be stutlied with so much advantage, since here are found specimens of every period and subject of his art. 828 and 827, two portraits side by side, show his earliest and his latest style, the former bearing the date liu'A, aiid the latter 1(;G(>. "sOC, 825, 82:5, and 821 are a series of equally charac- teristic heads. 803, the " Bencdicite," or Grace, a small cabinet i)icture (»f great simplicity, and full of nvercn- tial feeling. 802, Danae : tliough un- fortunate in his model, Ri'mbrandt has ]»r<)duced in this imique j)icture a chef- d'ciiuvre of execution. 771 and 772 are excellent specimens of Franz Hals. The following are all by Rembrandt: — 808, Lieveu van Coi)enol, tlie cele- brated calligraphist, a highly-finished l)ortrait of the same period as that of the "Lesson of Anatomy" at the Hague ; 818, one of his noblest i)or- traits, very badly hung; its vis-Ii-vis, 801), which sutFers from the snme cause, is a fine classical lieiid, called indif- ferently Joan of Arc or Minerva ; 80"), an old woman, an admiralde j)ortruit in his freest style — the hands, exe- cuted with a freedom which borders on coarseness, appear highly finished when viewed at a proi)er distance; 707, Return of tlie Prodigal Son, though i)ainted in a coarse decorative manner, tells its story witli much pathos; beneath it is a buld landscape, 830, and, on the opposite screen, a marine piece, 831, very warm and transparent, probably left uncompleted by Rembrandt, for the foreground seems to be finished by an inferior hand; 817, a beautifully-colourei)ears to have become more daring with age, to judge from the impasto and the masterly treatment of this fine portrait — ft hanus unfortunately too much in tlie dark to be seen with advantage (an- other i)ortrait of Thomas Parr, also by Rembrandt, may Ix; seen in Prince Lobanotf's collection). 702, Abra- ham's Sacrifice, one «)f Rembrandt's earliest, signed and datetl 1035 (\V.): tlu'ie is a coj)y of this i)icture by Eckout in a jirivate collecti<»ii at Brus- sels. Tlie Hermitage (iallery is also very rich in jiictures by Ferdinand Bol : see tlie excellent portraits by this artist under Nos. 853, 854 (W.), 810, 848, 85U, 851, and 847. Room XIV, — The i>rincip;il objects of attraction in this room are six sketches by Rul>ens for the decoration of the triumi)hal arches raised at Antwerp in 1035 to greet the solemn entrance of the Infant Cardinal Fer- dinand, brother of Philii) IV. of Spain (Nos. 5G1 to 500 ^ The paintin-s were executed by Rubens' i)upiis, after these sketches. The allegorical rei)resent^ition of Peace and War con- tending at the Temple of Janus (500) is ingeniy Platzer. 1303 is a i^ortrait of IMengs by the artist himself. 1200, the Descent of the Holy (ihost, is an exquisite specimen of Mengs ; unusually fine in colour and expression. The Denners are 1284 to 1288. 1304 and 1305, by Angclique Kaufmann, represent episodes from Sterne's ' Sentimental Journey.' Room XVI.— On the eight screens in this room are numerous specimens of the Dutch school in its most flou- rishing period. 777, Presentation of the Bride, a masterpiece by Van der Heist, to the left on entering, at once strikes the eye; very much restored, especially the head and dress of the bride (from King of Holland's Collec- tion). 778 and 770 are fine specimens of that artist's portrait-painting, rarely seen out of Holland. 000, Game of Trictrac, by Jan Steen, who is seen in the picture playing with a lady ; the sj^ecimens of this artist are numerous, aftbrding an excellent opportunity of studying his style. 874, the Musi- cian, by Terburg; the wdiite satin dress of the lady is beautifully painted. 003, the Alchymist, is a splendid spe- cimen of Gerard Dow. 878 is one of the best juctures by Metzu. 062, a Winter Landscape, by Ostade, — signed ; it is jiainted in his latest and best style. 1246 and 1247 are the two well-known jnctures, by W. van Mieris. 1136, a IMorass in the middle of a Forest, is an excellent Ruysdael. 1143 (opposite) is another specimen of that master. 1211 (on stand VII.), a Street at Amsterdam, is one of Jan van der Heyden's best pictures; the figures were' painted by A. van der Velde. The specimens of this artist are numerous, and extremely good and valuable. 1 148, View near Groeningen, by Jacob Ruysdael— full of sunlight. 1145 is a beautiful and clear specimen of the same artist. 1117, one of the best eftbrts of Van der Neer— a View at Sunset. 1162, Marine View by l*ynacker — one of his best. 1102, a View of the Meuse, by Cuyp. 1150, Study, by C. Decker ; a beautiful spe- cimen of this master, whose pictures are rare. 805, a large picture by Jan Steen, Esther before Assuerus ; consi- dered by AVaagen the best of that ai-tist's serious pictures. 070 is a good specimen of Van der Poel. 1081, a graceful Landscape, by Berchem, in a warm golden tone. 1262, a Landscape, in grisaille, by Be^-cy:! . 1076 and 06 Boufe 1. — St. Petcrslmr more exci'llciit liandscapt's, by Bcrcluni. llo5, IMoutli of the Scluldt, l»y KvcnliiiiAoii ; very l>ol(l and pirturcsquc. On a stand is aiiotlior bnuill ])i('tur(^ by Van dcr ilcyden ; 120(1; ; a \iit\r. liaisli in out- line and cold in tone, but tlu^ Jii^uivs benntitully j)aintod l>y A. van der Voldo; it ivpivsonts a .street at 0>- logne. Room XVII. is devoted to pictnres of fruit and j»amc by Sny«lcrs, Vo.s, Wcenix, Vcrendael, and otliers. 1)>24, Concert of Birds, ])y Snyders, is cu- rious. (Peter tlic Great's Gallery is reached from liere. There is a studio for paintin;^ (»n jxireelain above this room, and a small collection of old majolica, not generally o^hh to tiie public.) Boom XVIII. contains numerous ]taintiniL;s of tish, fruit, and j;ame on th(! largest canvas, by Snyders, Vos, and others. IKtl, Slau-hinit, is an excellent specimen of Hackert ; and 1323 (on a stand) is an amusinj;- study of cats' iieads by Snyders. Then; is a m;!rl>l{! statue l)y Canova in this room, well known In »m popular reproductions. Boom XIX. — Til is room, like tla^ next, is set apart for the A^^s^•/(^i School, founded in 11 o*.) hy Lossenko. 1020, Sunrise on tlie Black Sea; and on tlie other side of the door an extra- (udinary picture, *' the Delude," by Aivazofsky, a marine ])ainter. 1(122, a View of Odessa, by the .same artist. 1G20, View of Wladi-Kavkas, a small town in the Cauca.sus, by Willewald. lOoO, The Kcniu'sst' or Fair at Amsterdam by moonli,i;lit. by Bo;^o- lubolf; the G8 will be seen one of Avai- zowski's most extraordinary eHbrts, "the Creation of the World."' A marble stjitue of I'aris by Canova stands in this room. Boom XX. — Uii!t.h iroiuL:^ to bathe, by Nelf, is an admirable si)ecim( n of tlesh-i»aintini;-. 15J)3. by Ivanolf, Christ appearinj.;: to Mary IMa;;-dalene ; the tigure of tiu^ Magdalene^ is n<»t tleticient in pathos, while that of Christ is executed with the cold for- mality of the p.«-eudo-clas>sic school. 1.590 is an immen.se picture by Bruni of the Brazen Serjxnt: a stiirtlin;;- academical picture. The most stri kin-- ])icture in this room is 1;580, the Last Day of I'ompeii, by Briilow; it is consitlered to be the most imj)ortant work of tile Ivussian School. 159.5, two Nymplis batiiini; ; one of tlie ii.u^urcs in this picture is from the same model as 1:594, which it resembles in mod(^ of treatment. Tliere are moro copies t^dcen of tliese two pictures by Nelf than of any other in the Hermit- aj;e. Two candelabra and a tazza of very fine jasju'r stiind in the centre of the room. Rooms XXI. and XXII. — Numisnuf- flc Collection. — This consists of more than 200,000 specimens, and was com- menced by Catherine II. The <»riL;inal collection has l)een increased by jmr- chases and gifts, ])rincij)ally from Baron dv Chaudoir, ]M. Keichel, Count IVrofsky, and M. de Beule. The coinage of Russia is shown in more than 70(J0 specimens, of wliich tlie most precious are 4 gold coins of St. AVladimir, lOth eenty. 'in Case 1. On a small stind will ]>e found a rich collection of "Boltinas" or half- ])ounds of silver, current throughout Russia from the reign of Wladimir the (ireat to the 15th centy., and of '* roubles," or (piartirs of a i)Ound of silver, introduced about the 15t'hcenty. Those without any sUimi) are the most Hiissia. Boiite 1, — St, Petersburg : Tlie Hermitage ; Pictures. 97 ancient Some Poltinas of the Golden Horde of Tartary are under the same glass. The modern '• roul)le " takes its origin from these rude lumps of metal, the name implying a i)iece chopped off. The square copeck and half-copeck of iron are .sui)posedtohave been used in tlie payment of miners in the province of Olonets, near the White Sea. By some the nana; '• Ko- ]>eika" (copeck) is assumed to lie • lerived from the wonl hoplc, or lance, from the ettigy of St George and the Dragon 1 te of greater antiquity. The 4-cornered Hat rouble of copper cast at Ekaterin- burg in 1725 will be noticed with tntcrest in Case 5, as will also the round rouble of copper cast in 1771. Tlie cohis of countries and provinces once independent, but now subject t» Russia, are exhibited in a magnificent series. Thus tin; coins of Volaiul from the. loth centy., and nmnerous nu'dals U'idt: that of Sobieski in Case 4), form a line collection in 7 cases. On a stuid will be seen the medals struck in Russia since 1702; and the visitf)r will notice tliat in the reign of Peter the Great gold couis bearing the eltigy of the sovereign were worn as Orders of Merit, aft^-r the ancient custom of Byzantium. \ case is devoted to a line collection of tlie coins of the Shi- ronic mces, Servian, Bulgarian, &c. The mints of foreign States are very richly reiireseiited. An English or American visitor will inspect with in- terest the valuable collection o\' J'Jiigli,ccimens ranging between Bcucon and Rhescuporis (the coutem- ]>orary of Constintino the Great), and including jNIithridates VI., Asandcr, Cotys, Polemon II., his wife Trypha}na, and Eu]>ator. As there is unfortu- nately no printed catalogue of this collection, it may be as well to give here a few particulars respecting the number and character of tlie coins i'vom the principal colonies of ancient ()! recce : — 1. Olbia (the most important Greek city N. i)f the Euxinc ; feituated at confluence of i hiieper and Bng) : — Skilnros, King ... 4 copper coins. Jnisniens, „ ... 1 silver coin. Cuius of the J'^niperors . -2 of copper. Tc.'^seno -Jl „ Fislies 34 „ 2. Khermvesua (near Sevastopol) : — Silver coins 16 Copper „ s9 3. ravii>:ai)a'nm (the present Kei-ttli): — Gold coin.s 12 Silver „ 33 CopiKjr , ss 4. riianagoria (on Asiatic co;\st of Euxino ; capitiil in Asia of kings of Bosjxjrus) : — Silver coins 2 Copper „ 20 5. Ti/ras (the present Akcrman); — Copper coin 1 6. Si'niU (near Sea of Azof) : — Silver coins 2 ' 7. dorghipia (near the present Taman) : — Silver coin 1 Copi^er „ 3 s. Hcraclea (on S. shore of Euxinc) : — Copper coins 2 9. Dioscurias (near the present Toti) : — , Silver coin (very rare) . . I Coi)i)er „ 2 Hi. TheiKlosia (Ivaffa) ; — Copper coins 2 11. Cercina: — Copper ojin 1 (Very rare, being ono of only two known bpecimens.) 12. Of GreeJi colonies or towns unknown :— 19 pieces. 98 Boufe 1. — St. Petersburg : Tlie Hermitage ; Pictures. Sect. I. Amoiii? these is a coin similar to that which is mentioned in Harwood's ' Populoruin et Urbium selccta Numis- mnta Grreca" (1812), as beinj; of Tyras, from tlie monogram on it. There are, however, several pieces at tlie Hermitiijj^e, with dilferent mono- grams, but with the same effij^y on one side and a iScytliian bow-case on the other. The collection representing^ the Kings of Pontns includes 16 coins of two different sovereigns, whose names arc indicated by monograms wliich have not been deciphered, but from which it is apparent that their names began severally witli E and K. In the galleries above Koom XXI. are more than 10,000 specimens of the coins of ancient Greece and Rome, and amongst tliem more than 40 stiitere of Asia ^Minor. Tlie fine col- lection of Athenian coins, purchased from M. De Beule, contains more tl:an 400 specimens of Totradraclmue. The earliest dated inscription in the Ivussian language yet discovered is preserved in Ilcxim XXI. It is calkd the Stone of Tmutarakan, whose Prince, Gleb, caused the distance be- tween the seat of his sovereignty and Kerteh to l>e measured over the ice and recorded on this stone in 1068. The numismatic collection is not open to the general public, but an application to one of the learned cura- tors will always secure admittance. Collection of Gems. — Room XXIII. (entrance from Room I.) — The collec- tion of gems is one of the largest in existence. It has been made up of various collections, purchased at dif- ferent times by the sovereigns of Rus- sia, and conspicuous among which is the renowned Cabinet of the Duke of Orleans (Philippe Egalite). The gems from that collection may be distin- guished by their rims ju'esenting a surface of deadened gold. It would be ditticult to criticise in a short notice so vast an assemblage of engraveet Tjomonosoff. The victor at Poltjiva sits opposite to the horse which he rode at that battle; but his diminutive charger mu.st have shrmdv considerably in the i)rocess of stufling, being now not many hands higher than the wolf-hound which runs alongside. Two other favourite dogs are preserved under the same glass cover. There is also a case con- taining the medals struck l)y I'eter to conunemorate the more imi)ortant events of his reign, while another con- tains s])ecimens of his coinage, with a few of a later date. On the top of a l)ress, near a window, stfinds a small efligy of his liousekeei>er in Holland. Abf)ve the presses the walls are covered with portraits of his coadjutors in the work of founding the Russian empire. Scotchmen observe with satisfaction the portrait of Count. James Bruce, immediately on the right of the dress Catherine. Around it, in glass cases, Is a large and valuable collection of snuft-])oxes, left by various sovereigns. The one presented to tlie Emiu'ess Alexandra, consort of Nicholas 1., by ]Mahmou77, small tun, mounted with gold and precious stones, attributed to Ben venuto Cellini. On fifth slielf, spoon, with coral handle, belonged to John Sobieski of Poland. Press 11. Japanese and Chinese cu- riosities, in silver. Press 10. Russian curiosities.- Four small groups, in schistus, l)y Wenelf. Several old cups and a casket, in enamel, called Tsenina, an art learned from Byzantium. Mosaic head of John th(i Baptist, by Siewers. The inspection of the presses is liere interrupted by an object of .some interest, placed on a stand. It is a massive silver goblet, ])y Scldick, of Copenhagen, on which the apotheosis of the Emperor Nicholas appears in high relief. Press 9. Old Japanese and Chinese filigree work. — On upper shelf a silver wig, worn by Narishkin, Grand INIar- shai of the Court, at a fancy ball given by Catiierine II. Press 8. Fine collection of old clocks and jewelled watches. — Two watches, in the shape of silver ducks. 2034, watch of an abbess, in form of a cross. 2059 and 2000, two fine clocks of Augsburg work, early part of 17th century. 2035, on third shelf, watch, in shape of a Nuremburg g^^, by cele- brated Russian mechanic Kulybin. < ! the other shelves will be seen a very fine collection of Rubin glass, in- vented by the celebrated Kunkel, of Potsdam. Press I. An inkstand, made to com- memorate the battle of Tchesme ; be- longed to Prince Orloff. At the end of the room are a few specimens of carving in wood, some of wliich are by King. Passing by the glass-case with stones and the model of the monument at Poltava, the visitor will proceed to inspect the cases on the otlier side of the gallery. Glass-case I. Chinese figures. Press 20. Head of Madonna, sculp- tured in mammoth-])one by Scheer, of Moscow, from model by Prof. Yitali ; height 23 in., breadth 20 in. Gives some idea of the size of the antediluvian animal wliose tusks are so frequently found in Russia. No. 3394, chess-men, French work of period of Charles IX. No, 3411, a superb ivory dish, of Ger- man workmanshi}), representing hunt- ing scenes. Ca.se II, More than 100 ornaments in gold filigree, from tlie toilet of a Jai)anese lady of quality; equal to (7 reek work for fineness, though not for design. Observe the magnificent necklace in the shape of a streptos. Press 25. Collectionof ivory figures, &c. Case III. Chinese jade cups. Press 24. Specimens of carving in bone, from Archangel. Alongside, the visitor will view a modern work of art, illustrative of a recent page in history. It is a silver salver, wliicli, in the allegorical forms of Hercules and the Hydra, records the triple alliance against Russia (1854-50) and its result. Conceived and executed by Benjamin Scldick, of Copenhagen, and oftereil for sale to the Emperor. Press 23. Russian work, in ivory, — Portrait of Lomonossolt, the j)oet and fisherman, born at Archangel. Models of monument to Minin Kusma Minitch Sukhorukofi' (a butcher from Nijni Novgorod) and Prince Pojarsky erected {tt Moscow, Case V. Carving in ivory, from 14th centy. — Portrait of Christian V., King of Denmark, of Duke Augustus of Brunswick (4415), and of a Duke of Schleswig-Holstein (4414). Press 22. Articles which have be- longed to members of the Imperial Family. — Set of buttons painted by the wife and children of Emperor Paul. Lockets, with hair of Peter the Groat, liis fother, &c. Dinner and breakfast services, used by Alexander I. in all his campaigns. Case VI. Collection of i)ocket-book.^. — Largest one in centre (7), enamelled and ornamented with diamonds and rubies; belonged to the wife of George William, Elector of Brandenburg, and to lx)th wives of Frederick William the Great, and containing autographs of Gustavus Adolphusand of most of the German Princes and Princeses of the time of the 30 years' war. Memo- randum-book in morocco \^28), with gold and enamelled cipher of Sophia Charlotte, wife of Frederick III., after- wards first Queen of Prussia ; given by her to Peter the Great at Konigsberg. Small book (27), with gold cipher of Augustus II., King of Poland. Book, witli tortoiseshell cover, studded with sapphires and rubies ; belonged to I'eter III,, husband of Catherine II. Also a few specimens of niello-work. Press 21. Filigree work. — Silver peacock, presented to Nicholas I. by Viceroy of Peru. Model of a Sardi- nian cannon, with the cross of the Annunciation. On small stands near tlie press are marble busts of Cliarles of Anjou, King of Naples, and his wife, Margaret of Flanders. Case VII. A very valuable collection of rings. — Ring, with portrait of Peter I. under a pink diamond; another with likeness of Frederick the Great. Several betrothal rings of the Imperial family will be seen in the upper small case. The ring of greatest interest is engraved with the arms of E. Fries- land ; it was given by the Princess of Friesland to Sophia (Jharlotte, the un- happy wife of the Tsarevitch Alexis, 104 Boufe 1.-5^. Petersburg : the Hermitage. Sect. I. Russia. Bouie 1.— S/. Petersburg : The Hermitage. 105 The jewelled walkiii?:-stick handles belonged to Catherine II. Under the case will be found an umbrella, made at Tula for the great empress. Visitors withdraw through Peter the Great's gallery. Ground-floor. The ground-floor of tlie jNIuseinn is occupied by galleries of antique sculp- ture, by the Kertch and Siberian collec- tions, by a library, and by a gallery of originaldrawings, wliichsliould bcseen in the order here given. Sculpture.— lat Room. Entering by a door on the 1. lumd, guarded by two very tall candelabra of rliodonite the visitor is introduced to a few Egy})tian and Assyrian fragments of sculi)ture, six sarcophagi, and, to some casts from the bas-reliefs of Nemroud. 2nd Eoom. Fragments of Greek and Roman sculpture.* On a bracket against the wall (rt.), bust ofAj)ollonius Tyanous,tliL'rytliagorcan])hilosopher, whoso j)ortrait has hitherto only betn known by a medal. 44. Head of Statue of Juno ; hair and drapery modern ; discovered in the Tanrida palace ; origin unknown. 87. Panther, from the Canijiana collection. f 00. Large bust of Antinoiis, found at Adrian's Villa (C). 3rd Room. 147. Omphale with at- tributes of Hercules (C). 148. :Mer- cury (C). 171. Mars, l.l'i. Colossal statue of Jupiter ; considered largest in the world; found at the Villa Barberini; * For details purchase of tbe porter 'Cata- logue du Musee de .Sculpture Antique.' Price 20 cop. The collection of I'^gyptiau antiquities has been enriched by the valuable gilts of Kha- li! Boy, Turkish minister at St. Petersl)urg. f In 1^^61 Mr.Guedeoiioff, the present direct- or of the Hermitage, purchased for the Russian Government a considerable portion of the col- lection of tbe Marquis Campana at Homo, whoso defalcations in connection with the Mont de Piete, are well known. The French Govern- ment Ixnight the less 1 valuable portion at a great price. The most important of the objects belon<;lng to tbe Campana collection will be noticed and marked with the letter C. very much rei)aired (C). 173. Bacchus. 154. Very line statue of Venus Genetrix, in best style of Grecian art (C). 175. Niobe (C.) ; excellent specimen of the antique. 17G. Colos.sal head of Minerva, in Parian marble, probably of ejiocli of Phidias. The two marble sarcopliagi at the lieadoftheroom are remarkable for the beauty of the figures in relief (C). 4th Room. 193. Well-restored statue of Augustus (C.). 194. Beautiful statue of IMarius, found at Otricoli (C). 200. ArsinoePhilopator; nose, lower hp, and lobes of ears restored. 209. Pompev ; and 210 Julius C^a^sar (C.). 207. Only existing bust of Sallust (C). 5th Room. In centre immense Tazza of green jasper from the Altai moimt- ains. It was placed belore the windows were built; diameter 10} ft.; more than 8 ft. high. 240. Titus Quinctius. Gth Room. Near door on rt. 274. Very line statuette of Silenus. 200, near tlie window Faun and Satyr (C). 7th Room. Kertch collection, which see se})nrately. Htli Room. Tlie Nine INIuses, from the collection of the Marquis Campana, but of various origin. 303. Caryntido lMu.se, in .style of school of Phidias ; bought at Venice in 1851. 332. Bas- relief of (Janymede. 337. Nio])ides; very tine fragment (C). 310. A Faun; Ix'st specimen out of lour in the Her- mitage ; given by Pope l*ius IX. in ex- change for some land on Mount I'ala- tine, purcliased by the Km})eror Nicho- las in 1840, for the purpose of making excavations. 9tli Room. Venusof the Hermitage. 343. Very beautiful Greek st.itue found in 1859 at Rome, in the Vigna Man- gani, near the Poiia Portese; well pre- served; only right hand, fingers of left hand, and small portion of neck re- stored ; i)urcha!^ed 1859. 347. Venus from the Tanrida Palace; Peter the (ireat caused it to be purchased at Rome in 1719, with .some other an- tiques, and thus laitl the foundation of the present .sculpture gallery. There is another Venus with a Cupid (351) near the d(X)r. Cupid has been added by the sculptor Beruiui (C). *l ■1 Kertch CoUection.—^lih. Room. An- tiquities from Cimmerian Bosporus. Medals and other monuments attest- ing the existence of Greek colonies, founded nearly 000 years before the birth of our Saviour, Ijegan to be dis- covered in the early part of this cen- tury on the northern shores of the Black Sea. The classical names of Panticapaeum, Theodosia, and Phana- goria, reapi)eared on the surface. Many discoveries were made on the sites of those ancient settlements in 1820, but the earliest prizes of any value were obtjiined in 1831, at the gates of Kertch (Panticapseum), on opening a tomb concealed in a mound, long known to the Tartars as the " Hillock of the Brave." In a chamber built of hewn stone were found the remains of a Scythian prince or ruler, side l)y side with his favourite wife, his equerry, and his war-horse. His crown, his weapons of gold, his ornaments, and golden robes, had lain untouched for more than two thousand years. Nume- rous vases of l)ronze, some gilt, others more simple, and still containing the remains of provisions which had been jdaced in them, were also found, and carefully conveyed to the Hermi- ta with Greek inscription. " Present from sister;" a splendid l)ronze cover of a looking-glass ; small ornaments from dress ; and remains of a wooden lyre. Case rt., ])ainttHl vases ; centre vase in best style of Greek art ; subject, the toilet; a vase alongside, same design. Opposite 3rd window, iron casque, with gold and silver ornaments. Be- tween 3rd and 4th window, octagon case full of female ornaments of gold ; buttons, pins, necklaces, gold escallop- shells, gold filigree wine-strainer (527a). Bracelets of silver on whicli links of gold were once passed ; small gold chain of exquisite workmanship, with precious stones inserted between links ; heads of stag— symbol of long- , evity (407) ; wheatears of beaten gold, probably worn as ornaments in the hair. 4th Window. Gold ornaments found in the "Great Tumulus" at Taman. Case rt., vases, 'Ma and 3G/>, Paris and Helena, of magnificent workmanshij). Case 1., vases : 13a, Education of young Bacchus. Opposite 4th window, magnificent vase with figures in relief, coloured and gilded, reiiresenting combats ])e- tween tlie (^riflins and Arimaspi ; one of tlie principal i)ersonages, named Aerokomas, is on horseback; the otlier, Dareios, is in a chariot drawn bv 2 horses ; one of the griffins has a lion's head with large horns; an inscri])tion says " Xenophantos of Athens has made it : " — a Greek artist, pro])ably domiciled in Khersoueaus about the 3rd or 4th centy. n.c. Between the 4th and otii windows is a collection of female necklaces in gold. No. 14S, a most ])erfeet gold filigree necklace or honuux, found at Theodosia, in same tomb with 3 other necklaces alongsidi. Victories witli quadrigaj will be seen on close inspec- tion to form the design of the 2 filigree earrings (84/). Beautiful gtild and enamel necklace with myosotes (ll)4r); necklace (1 GO) with pendent charms ; gold necklace with iH'udent bull's head (1G3), of magnificent workman- shi]); beautiful gohl necklace, ter- minating in head of Medusa, with pendent amulets against various ills (IGI). 5th Window. In the 3 cases are j)laced the various objects found in the tomb of Kul-Uba. Case rt., ornaments for male attire: 530rt, 530/>, silver stafls. supj)osed to be herahls' ; 432, gold umbo of shield weighing 25 oz. ; 45G, grouj) of 2 Scy- thians drinking out of the same horn, with an intimacy which betrays the in- fluence of Bacchus ; 433. j)art of scab- bard ; 431, handle of sword; 43G, re- mains of stirrups, iron and gold ; 434, handle of whi]), wood, with thin spiral gold plate. The other objects worth notice are 3 knives, and (447) the A Lussla. Boute 1.— S^ Petershurg : Tlie Hermitage, stone for sharpening them ; brace- 1 lets (427), weighing G oz. each, and (42G), weighing 3 oz., of gold, bearing a representation of Thetis defending herself against Peleus, and Aurora carrying away the body of lier son Menmon, killed under the walls of Troy. The streptos or collar (424) of twisted gold wire, weighing IG^ oz., and terminating in two Scythian horse- men, is of great beauty ; the blue enamel still ])reserved at the extre- mities of the ring or collar. 458, small Scythian figure with bow and arrows. Under window. Fragmentsof a lyre, probably of mamuKjth tusk, found abundantly on the Don ; on it is a most beautiful etching in the highest style of Greek art, the Judgment of Paris being one of the subjects ; broken by the falling in of the tumulus. 451. electrum vase, with repousse figures of Scythians mending their weajKms, &c. The i)rinci|)al figure appears to have been wounded in the mouth and leg ; lie is seen a second time submitting to an operation which looks like tooth- drawing, and a third time having his wounds dressed ; the costumes resemble tho.se of the peasantry in Russia at the l)resent day, the shirt being worn out- side the trousers, which are tucked into the boot. 573. a silver rhyton or drinking-horn ; 574, ditto. Case 1. Female ornaments, &c. : 428, gold bracelets, each weighing 3 oz., of finest workmanship; 441, earrings, weighing 2 oz. eacli. It is necessary to have a micro.scoi)e in order to see the delicatt^ figures concealed in the ex- quisite ornamentation of these jewels. There are four female figures in each, repre.senting Thetis, followed by her Nereides, brhiging to Achilles the new arms forged for him by Vulcan. Tlie.-e were probably sU)»ported by Victories, detached, perhaps, by accident. Blue enamel visible in some part.-. The gold collar (425) is inferior to the one opposit«'. The use of these oruam{>nts was Bnrbariiin, not Greek. 439, neck- lace of idaited gold thr.-ad, terniiiu.ting in li(urs head, not so delicate as the one in la.st windcnv ; 450, mirror with gold handle; the small gold laminai proceed from the dress, to which, judg- 107 ing by the holes in them, they were attached. Opposite 5th window is one of the finest Greek vases in the world, rcpre- presenting the Toilet; of beautiful design. Found near Kertcli. Between 5th and Gth windows, oc- tagon case with gems. 2 gems re- presenting a lieron flying, signed '' Dexamenos," are the finest and most important in the Hermitage, or per- haps anywhere. No. 292/^ was found in a tomb at Kertch, and probably dates 4 centuries B.C. ; gem 290, Marsyas and Ai)ollo ; 29Ga, Medusa ; 329, Ceres ; 295, a griffin ; 29G, Venus at bath ; 292. figure of a Scythian. Two largest known thumb-rings of gold, with heads of Minerva in cor- nelian; gold rings, plain and en- graved; 24G, Scythian trying his arrow, most curious ; 247«, a well-pre- served Victory on gold signet-ring. Gth Window. Case rt., painted vases with ])acchanalian scenes. In the case under the window are chiefly objects found in the tomb of a young woman at the Pavlovsk Battery at Kertch : G50, looking-glass, necklace, earrings formed by Victories, and a ring containing the bone other finger; 247;, blue enamel ring, representing 2 Scythian dancers ; 247(/, a ring with Veniis at the bath; 2 boots of one l)iece, except the soles: fragments of emltroideivd dress, partly worked with gold tlmad; 110. painted vase in terracotta, representing a Scythian dancing. Case 1., painted vase with baccha- nalian subjects. Opposite the Gth window, on a stand will be found tlie painted Greek vase, which is the second for beauty in the collection. It was taken from the tomb at the Pavlovsk Battery near Kertch. The figures are those of Triptolemus, Hecate, Ceres, Ilercides, Proserpine, &c. Between the Gth and 7th windows is a collecli.cn of female ornaments from dres^.e.■^, and earrings; five fe- male heads v.earing the stephane, some showing the bull-headed pen- dants ; enamelled Cupids and Sirens G 3 108 Boute 1. — St. Petershurg : TJie Hermitage. Sect. I. Eiissia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage. 109 in various positions ; 73a, 2 Bac- chantes of delicate workmanship. 7tli Window. Case rt., painted vases; 43", Orestes and Pylades in the Areo- pa2;us. In ease under window, silver salver, with border and centre oH niello-work, and a monogram combinini^ the let- tors A. N. T. B. ; a gold mask, wliicli had covered the face of a female ; gold spindle ; small amphora for perfume, stuflded with garnets ; gold bract'k'ts and ornaments from dress ; fragments of dress. Case 1., painted vases with human figures (see 111 and 112). Opposite this window is a fine urn of gilt bronze. Between 7tli and 8th windows. Pyramid, stand IV. with funereal wreaths ; the 2 upper crowns have an impression from coins of Marc Aure- lius and of Commodus with Marcia. 8tli Window. Case rt., bronze vases ; 2 i)airs of greaves. Under window. Bronze scales from harness; arrow-heads (6186, with a single barb); three ladles for wine; strigils. Case 1., fragments of harness and trajipings of bronze and iron, studded with stones. Opposite the window is a vase representing a scene evidently Hymeneal. Between 8th and 9th windows. Py- ramid, stand V. with funereal wreaths. 9tli Window. The case under tliis wind(jw contains the richest treasures in the museum. They were found in 18GG in tlie "Great Tumulus" at Taman, and constitute tlie ornaments, &c., of a priestess of Ceres, and th«^ trappings of the four horses that were buried witli her. Among the orna- ments, the visitor will be struck with the extraordinary beauty of the re- pousse work — Venus and Cupid — on a looking-glass cover of bronze-gilt. The bracelets, diadem, and necklace, and the buttons of her dress, are all of exquisite workmanship, as are also the 4 rings, of whicli one, the gold iscaraboiUd (2il i'), id q.uite unique. Tlie remains of the sandals worn Ijy the priestess will also be seen with interest. The splendid ear-recious stones. The largest and finest, with a representation of combats with griflins, belonged to the Priestess of Ceres. In a recess beyond this window the visitor will sec some large vessels of bronze, in the shaj)e of a modern car- l)enter's basket, which contained the mutton with whieh the corpse at Kul- Uba was supplied. At the head of the room are the remains of u beautiful marble tomb witii 2 recumbent figures ; the bas-reliefs evidently represented Achilles at Syros; work of the 2ud centy. B.C. Along the wall on the opi)osite side of the museum are nume- rous luncreal tjiblets und sepulcliral numuments bearing inscriptions and ligures of Greeks and Scythians ; 22c is an unihiished marble bust, found on 3Iithridates' Hill ; the colnnni of a temple; of Venus at Khersouesus ; a bronze urn, enclosed in the stone, showing the way in which it was de- posited, and a votive tjd)let with a tigure of Proserpine and other mytlio- logical personages, may be noticed. On a stand is a beautiful silver helmet of Grecian work and unusual form. Tlie sarco])]iagus of Kul-Uba stands in a glass case ; the carving of the wood and the figures in relief are ( » n very fine ; the gilding and colour are still partly preserved. The 2 statues of a Greek lady and her husband may well be noticed for their beauty and i>erfeotion, not hav- ing been in the least restored; pro- l, » bably of the 1st centy. after Christ The other objects on stands, a helmet and greaves (Knemides) of bronze, will have the i)arting glance in this interesting and unequalled collection. ScijfJi ia n Collection. After leaving the Kertch room, the visitor should return to the Gallery of the INIuses, and, admiring once more the " Venus of the Hermitage," pass into a room devoted to a collection of Scythian, Siberian, Oriental, and ancient Russian objects of antiquity. Here the progress andescril)eswandering between the Oxus and the Jaxurtes, and as wearhig '• in combat girdles of gold, and rouiitl the head bands of gold ; the bits and l)lastron^ of their horses are of gold." (^Strabo, Ixwk xi.) The most important objects in this room will be found on the three centre stands. On the first circular stand will be found the gold corytos or bow-case of the king (421). It bears a mythological Greek subject, in repousse work, pro- bably of local interest to a Scythian ]-uler. In the next compartment is the gold saibbard of his sword, representing a battle-scene between Greeks and Scy- thians, in which the fate of the battle appears equally balanced (424) ; the hilt of the sword, with handle of solid gold (425); other swords of inferior workmanship will be seen in Nos. 428 and 43G; No. 419 is a sharpening stone. The other things exhibited hi this case are gold ornaments from the dresses of the king and the queen, buried with them, some of them being evidently of barljarian origin ; Medusa heads frequent; the dog engraved on ring 374 is a good specimen of art. C)n the 2nd stand is the splendid vase of silver gilt discovered in 1803, with the dish and ornaments on the remaining stands, in the tomb of a Scythian king, on the banks of the Dniei)er. The vase, 28 in. high, is in the most perfect style of Greek art, and cannot be of later date than the 4th centy. B.C. The magnifi- cent relief figures round the upper part represent Scythians taming and otlier- wise attending to horses, which pro- bablvbelons: to thekiu'^'s stable. The repousse griffins attacking stags are mythological allusions to the country inhabited by the Scythians, in which the fabulous animal was supposed to exist. Instead of being poured out with a cyathus, the wine evidently flowed out through the heads of the Pegasus and lion IjcIow, after passing through a fine strainer inside. Probably the work of an Athenian artist of the period of Piaxiteles. A large silver dish and ladle, found with the al>ove objects, is placed on the 3rd centre stand; they are of pure Greek work. Other specimens of Greek art, with a considerable admixture of barbarian imitations, will be seen in some of the cases in this room. They are numbered consecutively, but must be described here according to the groups or collec- tions to which they belong : — no Boute 1. — St. Petershuryzantino-Slave objects, found principally at Kief The gold earrings with enamelled figures of Sirens are of tlu; 11th einty., ns is also the large gold medal f)f Chernigof seen in the centre of the case. The inscription rountl it, in Slavonic, is " Lord aid thy servant liasih" In the centre is the head of INIedu.sa and a dragon being vanquished by a figure representing Christianity. This was a kind of amulet worn round the neck by the early llussian princes and their consorts in the 11th and 12th cenls. As Basil was the name taken bv St. Vla- dimir when he wns baptized, it is not improbable that the nmulct belonged to that sovereign. Case 17 is full of ^Mongolian pottery found in the ruins of Serai. Case No. 20, under the 3rd window, contains 2 well-pre&erved dishes of Per- sian (Sassanide) work, of the early part of the Christian era ; also the re- mains of a gohl sheath, with Assyrian winged figures. The most remarkable object in this case is, however, the silver patera, with a Uader in bas-ri lief, ri'- presenting crocodiles, pelicans, leopards, and tiie lotus-fl«>wer. In the botttun of the ilish are the repousse figures of a man standing on the back of another and chiselling the first 5 letters of the Greek alphabet on a tower of 2 stories. The subject is evidently the Nilome- ter. Found in the province of Perm, on the borders of Siberia, and probably Koman work of the 2nd centv. a.c. Llhrarijy dr. The room next the Siberian Gallery is occupied by a collection of engrav- ings, the basis of which is forme«l by those of the WaljKde collection. It is said to contiiin 200,000 plates, .vome of which are exposed in glass cases ; but they cannot be particularized, as they are changed several times in the course of the year. The Library is continued in the next room. It was formerly com] )o.-ed of the libraries of Diderot, d'Alem- bert. Voltaire, and many others; but the greatir ]>art of the books and ]\1SS. have been removed to tho Public Library, leaving only 10, COO vols, on Archieology (scnie of which are of great value and interest), and a collection of works on ait, ti>gether with documents relating to the dif- ferent nuisenms of i\\o llermit^ige. Only a portion of the Archajologicul Library is here; the ie>t has been removed to remote rooms. Part of the library is railed oft* and aj)propriatcd to a collection of arclueological curi()sities and small brenzes, many of them being Pom- l)eian, and dug out of the ground iu Russia. Uoute 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage. Ill the presence of members of the Im- perial family. The spears at the en- trance are Ktruscan, The 1st case at the window (A 4) contains 3 paterte and other small objects. Case B, large silver salver (413; of Iloman work, found near the river Pruth, in Mol- davia. Another dish (440), of re- pousse work, representing the chase, also Roman, found in S. of llussia ; Mirror; 400, ''Venus and Adonis," remarkable. Last Case : 14 mirrors, principally Ktruscan, and engraved. The Ktruscan helmet (304), foimd at Bolsena, is one of the most valuable objects from the Campana collection. It is of bronze, with a thin covering of silver, like tlie helmet (0S2) in the Kertch collection. It is surmounted by a crest, cf)vered with a thin plate of gold, on which some ornaments are engraved. The indentation seen at the top was made by the stone which killed the wearer, whose fractured skull was found inside, and lies under Case B. Over the helmet arc an Etruscan javelin and shield, and a pair of greaves. Against the wall on the other side are bronze helmets, Etruscan and Koman. There is an- other fine Etruscan helmet (423) on a stiind by itself, found in the necro- polis of Vulci by Lucicn Bonai)arte ; the 3 gold erow'us have been restoretl from antique models. Over it a bronze cuirass and 2 shields. Oi)posito it, on a stand, is a large and massive silver pail (431), found in Moldavia, with figures of Leda, Cupid, llylas, Daphne and Apollo, &.C., in repousse work. Tlie vase, 373, with relief figures of amazons and handles, formed by Centaurs, was found with it. Koman work, 3rd centy. a.o. The cases on the other side, 9 to 12, are full of statuettes in bronze and terracotta, lamps, small vases, and other articles of pottery. On the top of Case 3 two bronze .^ttituettes, found in S. Russia (553), with a Christian inscription. \\i Case 1, a steelyard. An elegant Ktruscan tripod will be noticed on a stand. The long gallery alongside, opening into the library, corresjxtnds with that upstairs painted in imitation of the Loggia of Raphael. It is called the Gallery of Drawings by ancient mas- ters (about 12,000 numbers). The drawings exposed on the walls and in the glass cases being changed period- ically, it is impossible to indicate the numbers. Among the most interest- ing in the collection are the follow- ing : — Landscape and head of an old man, by Rembrandt. Van Dyck : portraits of Breughel " the Velvet," Francois de Moncade (whose eques- trian picture is in tlie Louvre), and head of the i)ainter Sebastian Vrancx ; a sketch for the picture in the collec- tion of the Duke of Buccleuch. Ru- bens : Helen Fourment, Cleopatra, and the sketch for the large picture in the Hermitage, Magdalen washing the feet of Christ in the house of the Pharisee. Charming sketches of fe- male heads, by Lancret ; a nude figure any Quarenghi, and was the residence of Stanislaus Poniatowski luitil his death, when it became the property of Constantine, brother of the Emi)eror Nicholas. At present it is inli!d)ited by the Grand Duke Constantino Nico- laevitch. The extraordinarily massive walls of this sombre building are built of blocks of granite ; the sui)])orts of the roof are iron l)enms, the r«K)f itself sheet copi)er, tlie window-frnmes gilded copper. There is very little marble in its construction to justify its iiiime. Over tlie ridiug-sohool and stables alongside; is a colossal bas-relief ])y Baron Klodt, a llussian sculptor. This palace is not generally in- spected by tourists. G. Fortress and Oithedral of St. refer and St. Paid.— Vvtcr the 'Great laid the foundation of a fortress on tlie IGth May, 1703, but the present forti- fications of stone were commenced in 1700 under tlie superintendence of Tressini, an Italian arcliitect. The corner stone of the cathedral was laid in 1714 on the site of a chureh built in 1703. Consecrated in 1733, it was struck by lightning for the third time in ll'){\. Th(» spire fell in and de- .stroyod a Dutch clock which had been placed in the tower at great expense, * Vide 'Catalogue des Vasps Peints/ 1864. I'l-ice 20 cop. Sold ut the door of the Hermitage. besides doing much other damage. The bwly of the ch. was restoretl in 1757, and Balles, a Dutch architect, drew the plan of a new belfry and spire. The former was finished in 1770, and the latter was put up in 1772. The frame-work was covered with sheets of copper, as well as the globe, the angel, and the cross which surmounts the spire. The gilding of the copper cost 2814: ducats, or 22 pounds of pure gold. The piesent clock, with cliimes, was put up in 1774. The angel and cross showing symptoms of decay, a Pussian peasant undertook in 18^0 to rei)airtiiem. He accomi)lished the feat with extrat>rdi- nary (faring, aided only by a nail and a rope, ami rei)aired the damage ; but in 1855 it was found necessary to erect a scaffolding t/t the very top of the spire in order to secure it more thoroughly. The cathedral, as it stands at present, is an oblong builling, 210 feet in length and 08 in breadth. The walls are 58J feet high. A small lantern- shaped cujuda, painted white, rises over the altar. Tiie western end is sur- mounted ])y a four-cornered belfry, 112 ft. higii, above which rises the pyraniidal spire, so eonspieuous for its elegance amidst the many domes and cui)olas of St. Petersburg. The spire alone is 128 ft. high, the globe 5 ft., and the cross 21 ft. The summit of the cross is therefore 387 ft. above the level of the groimd, or 20 ft. higher than St. Paul's. It is the tidiest spire in Kussia, with the exception of the ch. tower in Itevel. All the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St. Petersburg lie buried in tiie cathedral, excepting only Peter II., who died and was interred at Moscow. The bodies are deposited under the floor of the ch., the marble tond)S above only marking the sites of the graves. The tomb of Peter the (Treat should be visited first. It lies near tlie S. door, oi»posit(; the image I of St. IV'ter. The image with its rich ' gold frame gives Peter's stature at his I l)irth, viz. 19J in., as well as his ; breadth, oj in. His consort, Cathe- Ptussia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Academy of Sciences. 113 rine I., lies buried in the same vault. The tomb of Catherine II. is the third to the right of the altar-screen. The TOW of tombs on the N. side of the cathedral begins with that of the Emperor Paul. The image of St. Paul, opposite to it, also gives the height and breadth of that sovereign at birth. The diamond w'cdding-ring of the Emperor Alexander is attached to the image near his tomb. The sarcophagus of the Grand Duke Con- stantine, brother of Nicholas I., will be recognised by the keys of the fortresses of Molatinum coins of Catlierine, and the gold luilf- imperials of the i»resent reign. The Botanical Collection has been enriched l)y the herbarium of the late academician Meyer. The Anatomical Cabinet contains an exhibition of subjects by no means pleasant to view, although of interest to the pathological student. The head of a lady wliom Refer the Great loved is one of the most interesting curiosi- ties. Tile Mineralogical Collection is large and useful for the purposes of instruc- tion, and the greater j)artof its riches are due to the labours of the learned Pallas. It is not, however. consi)icu- ous for many very remarkable speci- mens. One of these is a largo and ricli twisted branch of native silver from Siberia ; and another, of much interest, is the large aerolitic stone tliat fell at Smolen.sk in 1807, present- ing the usual Idack crust and pris- matic form of these remariiable bodies. There is also one of tlie largest me- teorites in Europe, though surpassed by those in the mineral department of the British ^Museum. It was found at Krasnojarsk in Siberia, and is re- markable for containing the mineral olivine, in some cases crystallized, which fills the cavities of the great sponge-like mass of the iron. A large artificial globe, constructed by Euler, may be seen in one of the rooms. It is no longer a curiosity since Wyld's Great Globe was put up and taken down in Leicester Square. Although as yet inc()nq)lete, the Zoological Collection will perhaps be of greater interest than any other to the English traveller, for it contains the unfossilized remains of the gr( at mammoth and rhinoceros. These are especially remarkable from their hav- ing been preserved through countless ages in the ice of Siberian rivers, and from their fiesh and integuments having been from this cau.se so pre- served from decav, that wolves and bears came down to fc(Ml on them as soon as thev were revealed. The main- moth was discovered in IIUU. by a Tungusiaii lishermen, on the banks oftJie Lena in Siberia, in lat. 70°, and was afterwards brouirht aw;iv bv IMr. Adams in 1800; and thus the break- ing away of a clift' brought the men of the last generation face to lace with a species of ele])liant that had ceased to exist, as a living creature, lor a ])eriod which the modern geohi- gi.st carries far back in time, to what may be called the geological dawn of human history. The monster whose remains are here very imi)erfectly exhibited was comi)aratively but a sniall, and per- Russia. Route l.—St. Petershurg : Academy of Science', 115 haps a young, individual of his race. The huge skull of one of his kindred lying in the same room shows that the mammoth must have attained a size one-fourth, if not one-third, larger than the one here seen ; the skeleton is also incomplete. The tusks do not belong to the same individual as the ])ones, and some of the bones of the legs of the left side, which was that most exjwsed to the ravages of wild bea.sts and to the influence of the climate, are made up of wood and jtlaster, but the bones of the right side are pretty complete, and the feet. like the head, are covered by the in- teguments. Only nine of the ribs belonged to the animal. A mass of the skin may be seen alongside ; and in the glass case is a piece of skin with some of the reddish-brown hair still adhering to it. The hair was a distinguishing feature of this denizen of northern latitudes. A small stufi'ed elephant and its skeleton stand side by side with the mammoth, for the purpose of com- l)arison, but they look small when conqiared with, the mammoth, which is Sit least 2 ft. liigher and longer in the sninc proixtrtion, the latter being 13 ft. long. The difterence between the two skeletons, in the position of the tusks, immediately attracts notice. In the mammoth they ai)proach closer together at the roots than in the ele- phant, and are in this specimen re- presented as extending laterally like two scythes in the same horizontal plane, and not in two parallel verti- cal planes as in the elephant. Rut this would appear to be an erroneous restoration of the tusks of the mam- moth, the true direction of which was first forwards, and, at some distance from the head, inwards, exactly in a contrary direction to that here repre- sented. Some of the mammoth-tusks in this nuuseuin are 8.] ft. long. The mammoth is also distinguished from the elephant by the greater length and compression of its skull, as well as by its superior height, giving the elephant the advantage of an ajtpa- rently greater intellectual develop- ment. Besides these, a large assortment is here seen of the bones of this extinct species of elephant {FAephas primi- aenhis, Blumbach), some of the indivi- duals of which seem to have surpassed this specimen in size as much as the latter exceeds the elei)hant by its side. The remains of an extinct species of rhinoceros (Ehfn. tetchor- hiuus) are scarcely less interesting than those of the mammoth. A head, on which the skin is almost entire, and the feet similarly clothed, and having even fine hair still on parts of them, form the most important portions of these remains. The skull, owing to its great length and the arching of the upper jaw, has some resemblance to that of a bird, and may, perhaps, have given rise to the faldes which circulate among the savage tribes on the sliores of the Icy Sea respecting a colossal bird of old times, the bones of which are said to be occasionally found. The learned curator of the museum has analyzed the remains of food lound in the cavi- ties of the teeth of this huge beast, an.l discovered that he fed on young branches of the fir-tree. There are about 15 skulls of the animal ke))t here. In these remains we i)robably see the animals of whom the ancients had heard from the Arimaspi. It is at all events certain that tlie tusks of the mammoth were well known to the Greeks, and ol)tained from their trade with the Scythians. Amongst other objects in the Zoolo- gical O^iUection are wxdl-stuft'ed si)eci- mens of the sea otter from the N. Pacific, one of whicli is 5 or 6 ft. long, and whose skin alone is valued at 200/. The birds from Kamchatka are also a valuable series, including some of the duck tribes of great scarcity. The sturgeons of every sea may be here seen, including species from the Amur and the Cas- l)ian. The skeleton of a huge Dn- gong {Rutya stiUagis) is supposed to r(i>resent a sj^ecies that has become extinct since 1745, but the claim thus urged on behalf of this skeleton has been disputed by foreign physiolo- gists. IIG BoiUe 1. — St. Petersburg : TJniverslty. Sect. I. The Academy is open on INTondays to the public. An introduction to a member of it is of service in seein;:: the dillerent collections at any other time. 9. The Universitij stands on the Vassili O.strof, near the Excliange. It Avas founded in 1819. It has, in addition to the Faculties of Hiritorv, Physics, and Jurisprudence, that of Oriental languages, of whicli a great variety arc praiticnlly taught liere. There is no chair of medicine, whicli is banislied to a special academy, situated a little higher up the river, and founded in 1800, under the super- intendence of the late Sir James Wylio, Bart., a Scotch physician, wlio did much towards advancing his science in Russia. (Vide "Monuments.") This University is attended by a])out 400 students, the matriculations being rs. 50 (7/. lOs.), as at Moscow. The nobility only began to send their sons to Russian universities under tlie reign of Nicliolas, wlien Count Ouvarotf, INIinister of Public Instruction, set the iashion by sending his own son to tlie University of St. Petersburg. In that reign education received a more na- tional impress, and somewliat of a militjiry tendency, since abandoned. The students no longer wear swords and cocked hats, and are in every way I'berally treated. The policy of the Emperor Nicliolas in reference to edu- cation was sununed up in three words contained in an instruction to Count OuvarofF: "• Orthodoxy, autocracv, na- tionality." The librarv contains G3,000 vols. The scientific collections are unim- portant. The remainhig universities of the empire are situated at Moscow, Kief, Kazan, Kharkof, Dorpat, and Helsingfors. 10. Aeadermj of ArU* on Yassili Ostroft\ — Peter the Great bestowed much attention on the introduction of • Open daily, gratis, from 10 to 4. the fine arts into Russia, and sent many young men to study in Italy and other countries. Three of those pupils attained some celebrity in Russia by painting images for the Church in the style of the Italian masters, as, for instance, those in the Church of the Fortress. The cliamberlain Schouva- loff*, founder of the University of Mos- cow, induced the Empress Elizabeth in 1757 to establish an Academy of Fine Arts. Lossenko was one of the lirst academicians. In 1704 the Em- press Catherine II. granted new sta- tutes, andjjatronised the productions of native artists, who had to be checked in their tendency of painting in a Pyzantine ecclesiastical form for the ornamentation of chs., by which they obtained much lucrative employment. Under the direction of Lossenko, the Academy produced Ugruimoft', the painter of two pictures in the Russian department of the Hermitage (Jallery. In the reign of the J^mperor Paul the pupils of the Academy were much given to fresco-painting iu the style of Wat- teau and Boucher, and it was only in that of Alexander I. that any great talent began to be exhibited. Tho Ivanofts, father and son, and Bruloff, were the most eminent artists of that period. Then followed Brunni, Stche- drin, Bogoliubotf, Aivazofski, ami many others. The present curator of the picture gallery of the Hermitage is a celebrated Russian academician, INIr. Neff, a very successful painter of nymphs. Tlie Russian school has lately pro- duced 2 pictures of striking merit — ' The Last Supper,' by (iay, a realistic conception of great boldness, since it entirely departs from the conventional representation of the position of the Saviour and His Disciples at table, and portrays them reclining on couches, in accordance with Eastern custom ; the other picture is by Flavitzky, 'The Princess Tarakanova in j)rison during an inundation.' She is depicted with much pathos, struck witli terror at the rising of the water which was soon to swallow her. The princess was an im- postor and a state prisoner, and is erroneously supix)sed to have met ^^'^ Russia. Boutc I.— St. Peter shurg : Academij of Arts. death in the fortress of St. Petersburg in the manner depicted {vide Descrip- Picture Galleries. tion of Novospaski Monastery at Mos- cow). Sculpture and architecture have not as yet inspired and rendered very famous any pupil of this Academy. The present building was erected between 1765 and 1788, by a Russian architect, partly after designs by La- motteand Velten. It forms an immense pile, 1722 ft. in circumference, and 70 ft. in elevation. The facade on the Neva, about 400 ft. in length, is adorned with columns and pilasters. The portico | in the centre is ornamented with the j statues of a Farnese Hercules and a | Flora, and is surmounted by an elegant | cujxila, on which a colossal Minerva is seated. On the parapet in front of the i Academy arc two superb granite sphynxes, brought from Egypt. Under the enlightened directorship of Prince Gagarin, the building has been entirely transformed, and its contents rearmnged. The lower floor is now devoted to sculpture, speci- mens and casts of which are arranged chronologically in a series of rooms, beginning with the early Greek and Roman schools, and terminating with the sculpture of the present day. Visit/)rs will recognise casts of many familiar and celebrated objects of art. Above this floor are the galleries ap- propriated to painting, while the upper story contains a large collection of drawings, &c , illustrative of the pro- gress of architectural art. A well- lighted hall iu the same flat is des- tined for an exhibition of pictures, to be held annually in September. The Picture Gallery, once of little interest except to those who mij;ht wish to study the Russian school in its earlier stages, has been made very attractive by the fine collection of French, Bel- gian, and German pictures, Ixjqueathed to it by Count Kouchelef, who died in 1804. As the internal arrangement of the picture gallery is not quite com- plete, the following description must necessarily be brief and imperfect. 117 Ascending the handsome staircase of the Academy, the visitor will enter by a door on the left of the landing into the 1st Room. — ^Walls covered with copies of Raphaels cartoons by Bruni, Hof- man, and other artists of the Russian school. 2nd J?oom.— Medals and gems in centre. Cartoons of boar-hunts and sylvan sports. 3rd Boom.— A few pictures by Van der Heist,* Teniers, and other Dutch artists. Portrait of Mosnier, the painter. Allegorical picture, with Catherine II. in the centre, by Torelli. 4ith i2oo7>i.— Marble statue of Count- ess Ostermann, by Thorwaldsen. A few small pictures'by Greuse, Mosnier, and Inures, and a study by Haydon. 5th Boom.— {The Kouchelef collec- tion begins here.) Cussingen's marble statue of Sappho. 2 pictures by Ary Schefter. Very good specimens of Messonier, particularly " the Smoker." A tolerably good collection of Diaz's, near the door. On the wall to the left, a startling picture by Horace Vernet, his daughter being curried away by the Angel of Death. A pool, by Daubigny, is a very pretty little picture. A 'Sea View,' and 'A Fisherman,' by C. Hoguet, are good specimens; and Isabey's ' Return from the Chase' will strike the visitor by its bright and pleasing colouring. The most remarkable picture in the collection is, however, Paul Delaroche's well-known ' Cromwell contemplating the dead body of Charles I.' This ia one of three pictures of that subject piiinted by the same artist. Near it is 'The Death of Correggio,' by Tassaert ; also ' Scenes in Morocco,' by Delacroix. The ' Sheep-pen,' by C. Jacques, is a very happy specimen of the French school. Brascassat's Bull is of great merit. The other pic- tures of note in this room are ' Blow- ing up of a Ship,' by T. Gudin ; a * As the pictures are destined to receive new numbers, they can only be desigTiatcd by the Ijames of the artists. 118 Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Mining School. Sect. L * Sea Shore/ with an excellent effect of distance, by V. Ziem ; a ' Younj^ girl in a wood,' by T. Couture; 2 pictures by Leopold Robert ; 4 by C. Troyon ; Geronie's well-known picture of the • Duel after tlie IMasquerade ; ' ' View on the banks of the Nile,' by P. INIarilhat : a charming bouquet of flowers, by S. St. Jean ; and. lastly, a ' Study from nature,' by T. Rous- seau. Gih Room. — German and Belgian schools. 2 pictures by Galluit (see * The Duke d'Egmont '), 4 pictures by Leys, and a very touching picture by C. Stevens, * The Organ-grinder and his dead Monkey.' The ' Lady .and Page ' is by C. Becker of Berlin. The most successful picture in this room is perhaps ' The fire at a farm-house,' by I^. Knuus, one of the earliest pro- ductions of that artist. Opposite to it is a good specimen of Hildebrand. There are also two or three pictures by Achenbach in this room. 7th Booin. — This will be recognised by the marl)le bust of Count Kouchelef over the door leading into the library bc-yond (aS,000 vols.). The pictures liere are mostly by ancient masters. There is a landscape attributed to Rem- brandt, and therefore rare. 'Infant Jesus with attributes of healing,' bv Tj. Cranach ; Terburg, ' Portrait of a lady ; ' Mieries, ' Boy blowing bub- bles;' Breughel, 'Adoration of the Magi ;' Cuyp, ' A gentleman leaving for the chase ; ' and a plea.sing Greuse. From the 5th Room, or from the top of the stairs, opposite the door leading into Room 1, the visitor will enter the Jiussiaii Gallery, with windows facing the court. The collection of pictures by Russian artists is con- tained in no fewer than 15 rooms, but the pictures, although of large dimen- sions, are not numerous. Tlu^y are arranged chronologically, and it will be seen that the tirst '6 rooms are de- voted to very feel)le attempts. In the 4th room are pictures by Brulof and Stchedrin, and a very curious represen- tation of a Calmuek mntnge. In the 7th room is an iutere:5ting picture by Chestiakoff, 'The Mother of Vassili the Dark snatching the girdle of Dimitry of the Don from Vassili tlie Squint-eyed, at the marriage of her son.' The girdle was to be always worn by the heir to the throne of Moscow, and ''Vassili the Squint- eyed " had possessed himself of it wrongfully. Next to this is 'John the Terrible listening to the Priest Syl- vester,' his gf>od mentor in the early p irt of his rtign, by Pleshanof The picture of ' Sviatopolk the damned,' who killed his threu brothers and then fled to the woods pursued by remorse, is by Sheremetef, a very promising (Uhttante. In the next room is the famous representation of the Last Sup- per by Gay. There is little to be f-aid of the remaining specimens of Russian art. Two r(X)ms are devoted to the jxjrtraits of members and ])residents of the Academy, while in the 14th room are some curious, ill-executed like- nesses of Cossack Hetmans, and a rather good picture of Sluih INIurza- Kula-Khan. The last room contains j)ortraits of the Kmperors Paul, Alex- ander I., Nicholas, and some early sketches by numbers of the imperial family. Near the door is a portrait of I*eter the Great, taken after death. 11, Corps des Mines. Mining SrhooJ. — This large and important eshiblish- ment forms a striking object on the right bank of the river, near the western extremity of the Vassili Ostrof. It is a government college for IMin- ing Engineers on a military basis, and contiiins a fine C(»llecti(>n of models and a noble Mineralogical Collection. The i)upils are al>out 250 in number, and dres.-.ed in military uniform. The eollection was connnenceil in the latter part of the last century, and its ex- pense was at first defraye specimens of gold, and later of platinum, were added. The models of mines, and of the machinery used in working them, arc very interesting. Miners are repre- sented in miniature going through the several operations of their craft, underground as well as "to grass." Tlie illustrations of copper and other lodes give a very good idea of those metalliferous deposits; nor are the models of the processes of auriferous sand-washings and workings less in- structive. The collection of minerals is the richest perhaps in the world, its only competitor being that in the British Museum, which, as a scientific collec- tion, is more complete in its material and in its arrangement, although it does not contain such an accumulation of the most splendid and costly pro- ductions of the mineral kingdom. Tlie si)eciinens of gold are alone worth nearly 10,000^, and vast sums have been spent on the beryls, tourmalines, toj)azes, and other sumptuous minerals of Siheria. The enormous mineral wealth of the great portion of the globe under the Russian sceptre is lavishly, although jierhaps not veiy completely, represented in this national collection. A very cursory inspection of some of the cases will satisfy the visitor of the extent of this wealtli. A large curled bar of native gold, and several nuggets and some good crystals of that metal, are exposed to view ; but the greater number of the specimens of gold are preserved in an iron safe. The whole of these are from the Siberian gold- fields, especially from those on the eastern sloixjs f>f the Ural ; except a few specimens fr.>m the (piartz-veins of the neighbuurlKM)d of Ekaterinburg, One nugget is valued at al)ove 4001)/, A platinum nugget of ten pounds, and a smaller one, may be seen by the side of the gold specimens, and among the other treasures of the collection may be mentioned the following :— A mass, weighing (37 Russian pounds, of the rare mineral petzite, composed of bilver and the rare element tellurinm, from near Barnaul in the Altai chain. A very large mass of native copper from the Kirghiz Steppes. A monster crystal of topaz of a yellow brown hue, given by the Em- peror, and valued at about 500/. Another magnificent and equally unique topaz crystal of the blue variety, found at Murzinsk in Siberia, of a fine colour, and with its crystalline planes well developed. The beryls from Siberia also form a magnificent suite, worthy of such a treasure-house as the Griine Gewolbe of Dresden, Among these are con- si)ieuous a flesh-coloured crystal from Murzinsk, and on a stand by itself a large crystal of green beryl, with a weight of about 5 pounds avoirdu- pois, and valued at 5000/, There are also several other fine transparent crystals of aquamarine, and of the most precious variety of the beryl, dis- tinguished by its colour as the eme- rald ; the crystjils from Ekaterinburg in this collection are extraordinarily fine, and although rarely so clear and limpid as those from New Granada or Peru, they far excel them in the size whicli their crystids attain, Tlie tourmalines, and especially those of the rose-coloured variety of this mineral termed Rubellite, which Si- beria produces in the greatest beauty, are also a very rich series. A crystal of the rare and almost exclusively Russian mineral Phenakite (a silicate of glucina) is perhaps the finest known specimen of that sub- stance, which may be also said of a specimen exhibitt^d here of the emerald- green garnet called Ouvarovite, The Siberian variety of chrysoberyl (an aluminate of glucina) termed Alexan- drite (after the Emperor Alexander II.) is represented by magnificent speci- mens. This mineral, which is of an emerald-green in daylight, presents a lilac or amethystine colour when seen by the light of a candle. Among the larger specimens in the galleries of tlie Corps des Mines atten- tion may be drawn to a solid mass of malachite, weighing 29 cwt. ; to a fine crystal of semi-opaque greyish quartz, weighing 10^ cwt,; and to some very tine crybti\l3 of Siberian amethysts. 120 Botite 1. — St. Petersburg : Imj)crial Library. Sect. 1. Among the minerals less conspicuons for their size or beauty arc many of high value and scarcity, but tliey pos- sess an interest almost exclusively for the scientific mineralogist. There is a very curious model of a mine in the garden of tlie school, and through its winding passages the visitor is led by the guitles, provided with light(^d tiipcrs, and initiated into, the general character of mining pro- cesses. Open daily from 10 to 4. Ticket on aj»i^licatiou, gratis, on tlie l)remises. 12. The IniperiaJ Puhlic Llhrary. — One of tlie richest libraries in Europe: it occupies a l)uilding tliat adorns one of tlie best sites in the city, between the IJazaar and tlie Alexander Theatre, a .sh(»rt distance up the Xevski Per- spective. It is open to readers on ordinarv davs from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., and on holidays from 12 to 8 ; and for inspection on Tuesdays and Sundays, when a librarian accompanies tiie visitors and exi)l;uns tlie various ar- rangements. The library now contains more than 800.000 printed vols.^ and about 20,000 !MSS., in various hiii- guages, modern and ancient. It owes its oriirin to a collection which once belonged to Count Zaluski. a Polish bislio}), and numbered oOO.OOO vols. On the capture of Warsaw by Suwaroff, in 1794, the Zaluski liljrary was transferred to St. Petersburg, and deposited in the present building, the construction of which was then ex- pressly commenced. As the library grew in extent the building was en- larged, until it is now three times the size of the original dejjository. The last addition to the building was made in 18G2, when a reading-room, which only yields in jjeauty and magnitude to that of the British Museum, was constructed, having been much needed on account of the increasing number of students who resorted to the library for reference. In 1854 the reading- room was frequented by 20,000 jx-r- sons, and in 18G4 the number had grown to 73,000. The lil)rary owes buch a remarkable result to the ad- ministration of the late du-cctor, Baron JModeste Korff, who succeeded in ob- taining a considerable increase in the government grant for the purchase of books and ]MSS., and for bringing the catalogues intarticularly by the valu- able books and jMSS. of Peter Du- browski, i)urcliased durhig the early tronliles of tlic French Revolution. The 3ISS. of the latter collection chiefly relate to the histf^ry of France, and fonn an hivaluablc series. They consist of letters from various kings of France and their amljassadors at foreign courts, rejxjrts, secret stat<.' documents, and coriesjxaidenco of European sovereigns. Tliese interest- ing papers were dragged from the archives of Paris by an infuriated l)opuIace, and sold to the first bidder, Oubrowski purchased them ; and thus some of the most valuable of the state papers of France adorn the library of St. Petersburg. A volume of MSS. letters from English sovereigns is ex- ceedingly interesting. The library and MSS. of Count II. Suchtelcn have been added ; and the numerous acquisitions of MSS. during the wars with Turkey, Circassia, and Persia, have contributed to form one of the finest collections in the world. The printed volumes arc catalogued in MS., according to lan- guage, names of authors, and matter; and there is now a catiilogne of the ]MSS. A list of the mo^t curious may be useful : The Ostromir MS., the oldest extant Kussian manuscript, was written for Ostromir, an ancient governor of Novgorod, and is in the Slavonian cliaracter, which bears much resemblance to the Greek. It contains the Evaiigelistarium, or Evangelists, as read in the Cireek Church, and bears the date of 1050, about 50 years after Christianity was introduced intoPussia. A Codex, containing the 4 Evangelists, on purple vellum, and in letters of gold, is interesting to the theologian. M. Edouard dc Muralt, minister of the Hussia." Boutc 1. — St. Petersburg : Imperial Library. 121 Pelbrined Church, and the learned editor of an edition of Minutius Felix, has published an account of this MS., with a facsimile of the character. It was taken by the Russian troops under Field-marshal Count Paskcwitch, dur- ing the Russian war hi Asia Minor, A.D. 1829. For some centuries it liad remained in the convent of St. John, near the village of Juniish Khan, and was supposed teof the 9th or 10th centy. ; and, if it be really from the pen of so illustrious a person- age, we may conclude that it was writtcMi by the Empress Theodora, wife of the Enqjcror Theophilus, who lived in the middle of the 9th centy. The charact<>rs are clear and accurately formed ; nor are the contractions nume- rous. The marginal notes are in let- ters of silver. Age has altered the col(»ur of the parchment, which is now almost black; the i^old still retains nmch of its original brightness. There is tm> the Codex San Oermanensis, formerly appertaining to the celebrated convent of St Germains. It contains the Epistles of St Paul, and has been referred to the 7th centy. Several Latin MSS. of the 5th centy., among which may be mentioned the G books De Civitite Dei; one of the mo.st ancient MSS. of the win-ks of St Gregory, copied by I'anl of Aquileia ; in tlie same volume is a letter of Paul the Deacon, the historian of the Lom- l.)ards, tf) Adalhard, abbot of Corbie. The works of Isidore of Seville, 7th centy. Historia Ecclesiastica tripar- tita et Cf)llecta in unum, ex Socrate, Sozomeno, et Theodorito, in Latinum, translata a Cassiodoro, Senatore et Epiphanio. In the lirst page we read, **Hic codex hero insula scriptus fuit jnbento sancto patre Adalhardo dum exularit ibi." Adalhard was abbot of Corbie in 774. Collectiones Cassiani, from the Abbey of Corlnc, of the 7th centy. The works of St Ambro.se, of the 8th centy. ; of Mena'us Felix Ca- pella, of Cicero, of Columella, of the 9th centy. ; several religious composi- tions, and ]\ISS. of various portions of the Scriptures, brought from a conveut on INIount Athos, chiefly of the 9th centy. ; and numerous richly illumi- nated MSS. fiom Byzantium, adorned with miniatures. The history of Eu- tro])ius, W'hich i\[. de IMuralt believes as ancient as the end of the 9th centy., and conse(piently one of the oldest extant of the works of that author. One of the most important additions to the 31SS. is a copy of the Four Evangelists, i)urporting to be written in the 11th centy., and presented to the Emperor by the Zograph Monas- terv, on Mount Athos. The collection of MSS. is further enriched by ancient Hebrew and Karaite INISS. that once belonged to the Firkowicz family, well-known Karaite Jews. It is generally ac- knowledged to be the most unique collection in the world. It contains ^ MSS. more ancient than any co- dexes of similar contents to bo found in the libraries of Europe. At lioyden and Bologna there is only one MS. of the kind of the 10th centy. ; in France, there is no Hebrew IMS. older than the nth, and in England none more ancient than the 14th centy. Tlie Firkowicz collection, however, con- tains 25 MSS. earlier than the 9th centy., and 20 written before the lOtli centy. The ]MSS. on skins, so rare that even the British Museum pos- sesses only a single copy, are decidedly the most ancient of any known. Nor can mention be omitted of the extracts from the Koran in the Cufic character, originally deposited in a mosque at Cairo, and brought tlience by ]M. Glar- ed, member of a French scientific expedition in the days of Bonaparte. One of these extracts belongs to the earlier period of Islamism, and the rest, of a later date, were probably used as specimens of Cufic calligraphy. They may be of great use in the interpretation of Cufic inscriptions. The collection of Oriental MSS., re- cently enlargeu licrgcr dessiulit et de Li Dergoronne." It is said to be an autograph work of Rene'; but this may be doubted. The ' Roman de Trove,' from th(> library of Charles V., very rich in miniatures and arabesques. Breviaire d'Amour; Jen d'^Vmonr, very curious; Roman de la Ro.sc' ; and the works of Guil- laume de (iuilloville : a Seneca and Cicero, with ex(juisite miniatures, by John of JJruges ; the Works of St. Jerome splendidly illuminated ; the oMissal of Louisa of Savoy, adorned with 24 miniatures, said to have been executed inider the direction of Leo- nardo da Vinci. Among French historical works in MS. may be mentioned, 'Histoire de Ctodcfroy de IJouillon,' of the 13th cent.: 'De Origine et Gcstis Francorum,' of the lltli cent.; 'Les Livres Historiaux,' of the 11th cent. : ' LesChroniques do Jehan de Courcy.' 2 vols, in folio; the original ]MS. of the ' History of France' of Du Tillet, dedicated to Charles IX., and adorned with miniatures of the kings of France, &c. There is al.-iO a mi;?.sal here of great interest to tlie Kngli.shman,as it formerly belonged to INIary (Jueen of Scots : it is <{uitc perfect, except that in tlie illnminations, with which it is abundantly ornamented, there have once been nunK;rous coats of arms, every one of which, from the beginning of the book to the end. has Ijeen care- fully erase3i la \\c ni'rst nioiiis utile que la nmrt, Ki plutost (JUL- changer de rues maus Tadven- tuie, Cliacuu diaiigc pour moi d'humcur et de nature. Marie R." Below these lines the queen lias scrawled a memorandum — "escrireau Secretare pour Douglas." In a collection of original letters is one from ]Marv to the King of France, written during her imprisonment, in which, addressing the king as Mmisieur man Frire, and signing herself voire bonne SiTur Marie, she speaks of Doug- las, reconnnending him to the future favour of his most Ciiristian Majesty, whom she at the same time thanks for his attention to her former request in behalf of the same person. In another letter from Fotherin":av Castle the un- haj)j)y (jueen expresses her too well- grounded fear of never being released from prison. This collection includes autograi>hsofIIcnryVl I., Henry VIII., Elizabetii, James I., Charles I., and his Queen Henrietta, with those of many distinguished persons : among others, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, in whose hand are 2 or l> letters to the King of France, expressing the deepest gratituropriated to the reading of foreign and Russian newspapers. 13. Foundling Hospital.- -This esta- blishment was originally founded in 1778, as a branch of that at Moscow. It was transferred to its present site on the Moika Canal in 1788. The buildings occupy a space of 20,825 square fathoms. About 6000 children are annually admitted on the same principles as at Moscow, and the average daily number of infantine in- mates is about 750. A lying-in hos- pital and a school of midwifery are also attached. For particulars respect- ing the management of such institu- tions in liussia the traveller is referred to the description of the Foundling Hospital at Moscow. Admission daily, on application to the Governor. This institution is admirably conducted, and is very well worth the seeing. 14. Michael Palace. — This Palace, or rather Castle, as distinguished from the Palace of the Grand Duchess Helen Pavlovna, stands on the site of the old Summer Palace on the Fontanka, which was pulled down by the Emperor I'aul, who built this of granite in its stead, fortified it as a place of defence, and dedicated it to the Archangel ISIichael. The castle has a more gloomy exterior than the other palaces of St. Petersburg, and is of an extraordinary u 124 Bouic 1. — St. Pdershiwg : Tanrkla Palace. Sect. I. stylo of architecture. It is in the form of a sqiuire, of wliieli the four fii(;sulc.s all (lift'er in style one from the other; the ditches which ori*;inally surrounded it arc now partly tilled up and laid out in gardens, but the principal entrance is still over some drawbridges. In the square before the chief gate stands a monument whicli Paul erected to Peter the Cireat, with the inscription, "Pro- dcdu I'ravuuk " f the Grandson to tlie Grandfatlier). Vide " Monuments. " Over the principal door, which is over- loaded with architectural ornaments, is inscribed in golden letters a i)assage from the Bible in the old Slavonian language: "On thy house will the blessing of the Lord rest for ever- more." This palace was built witli extraor- dinary rapidity, between 17i)7 and 1801 ; 5000 men were employed on it daily till finished; anictures have been removed to other collections, and there remains but little of interest within to gratify any curiosity beyond that of viewing the palace built for the favour- ite of Catherine the Circat. IG. Arsenal Museum. — Admission gratis, daily from 11 to 3, except on holidays. Tickets to be obtained Russia. Boufe l.—St. Petcrshirg : Arsenal Museum, 125 at the Artillery Dci)artment, Sergief- sky street. This Museum, which is situated near the Taurida Palace, and opposite the new C<»urts of Law, will well re- pay a visit. In front of the building, which is that of the '• New Arsenal," is a long array of cannon, Russian, Turkish, Persian, and Swedish. A brass gun of huge dimensions to the right of the j)rinci])al entrance was reduced in length by the extraordi- nary process of a jjiece being taken out of it. jind by the remaining parts being welded together. Peter the Great, in whose reign this was elfected, ordered the statue of the man who eonecived and carried out the project to be cast in bronze, and it will accordingly l)c seen in a recess of the lobby, which the visitor will enter, and where also stjinds a Russian cannon of the 17th centy. A winding staircase leads to a gallery of great length, in which the ]Museum is arranged. The sergeant who will accompany the visitor will first take him to the left of the stair- case, and beginning with the cases on the right-hand side of the gallery will point out the ]u-iiicipal objects of in- terest in the following order : — (1.) Case containing military uni- forms worn by Alexander I., and in a small case next to it the uniforms of Peter III. (2.) Next to it the huge standard of the Strcltsi troops, made of pieces of silk sewed together and adorned with many highly original pictures charac- teristic of that fanatical Russian i)rie- torian band. In the middle of this flag is a representation of God the Father lK)lding the last judgment; over his head is the azure sty of para- dise, beneath him blaze the flames of the infernal gulf; at his right hand stand the just, that is, a chorus of Russian priests, a division of Strcltsi, and a number of Ix'ardcd Russians; to his left the unbelievers and the wicked, that is, a tribe of Jews, Turks, and Tartars, negroes, and another crowd in the dresses of Nyemtz/'j or Germans. Under each group the national name is inscribed; and so also, by those tormented in the flames of hell:— "a Turk," "a German,^ (or foreigner) ''a miser," "a mur- derer," &c. IVIany angels, armed with iron rods, are busied in delivering the rest of the unbelievers, the shrieking Jews, ]\Iahomedans, and other in- fidels, to the custody of the devils. A number of the accoutrements of the Strcltsi lie in the vicinity of this extraordinary standard, and imme- diately under it are some ju-imitive Russian cannon from Old Novgorod. (o.) Stenka Razin's Stool. This is one of the greatest curiosities in the Museum. The great robber chief of the Casi)ian delivered judgment on this seat, and with the aid of the eight pistols which are set round it, he generally carried into immediate execution the verdicts which he pro- nounced. His stick, studded with brass nails, likewise a formidalde weapon, stands behind the stool, as an emljlem, probably, of authority. After committing many horrible depreda- tions he was at last captured and beheaded ivide Hist. Notice). IJehind the stool is another standard of the Strcltsi, of the reign of I*cter and John, with a representation of St. George, and, in the vicinity, hal- berts, maces, partizans, and battle- axes of the 17th centy. (4.) The objects next in importance are the revolving batteries, mounted on wheels, like ordnance, all of the 17th centy. The one that moves hori- zontally is composed of brass mortars, while the "Organ" (No. 1049) is a machine for firhig otf 105 justols suiiul- taneously. In the neighbourhood of the other "organs" is a collection of halberds, partizans, etc., of the reign of Alexis, to which epoch the three breech-loading culverins likewise be- long. (5.) The gun, with a mouth almost square, will be pointed out as the '' Drobovik," or shot-gun, of Peter the Great. The inscription on this curious jjiece of ordnance shows that it was cast at Olonetz, near the White Sea, A.D. 1722. The array of artillery on this side terminates with a row of old Russian culverins. H 2 12G JRoute 1. — Sf. Petersburg : Arsenal Museum. Sect. I. (ii.) The veliiclc to which the notice of the visitor will now be directed is *' Shuvaloirs car." It is of a stranj^e structiir(\ and besides beinf? profusely j;ilded is painted briglit red. The elevated seat is Hankeil by kettle- drums, and protected from behind by an alleii^orical ti<::nre holding a spear. The artillery tropliies with wliich this ear is decoratecl on every side indi- cates the purposes for which it was constructed. Drawn by eiS'/. Pelerslmrg : Imperial Carriages. Sect. I. iliis inj^onious objoet, and inscribod l)is name in a book wliicli will be handed for the purpose, the visitor will leave by the same winding stair- case, not forgettinjjf to s painted by Raphael, and the latter is the copy of a picture by Le lirun, painter to Louis XIV., and Director of the Gobelins manufactory. At the top of this staircase is the skeleton of the favourite charger of the Em- peror Nicholas. The three rooms on the upper story and their contents will be seen in the following order : — 1st Room. Gobelins Tapestry. " The Triumph of Mordecai," from picture by Le lirun, and five landscapes, &c. The furniture is covered with tai)estry bearing the Polish eagle. Carriages ;— Nos. 11) to 27, made at St. Petersburg by ja-ivate coach- builders ; three sedan-chairs, of which one, surmounted with an imperial crown, and with small Jewelled crowns at the four corners, was made at the Imperial Carriage Works for the Em- press Alexandra Feodorowna in 185G. Lastly — 2nd Room. Gobelins Tapestry. Ara- besques, vases with flowers, Aurora (after (hiido) ; the Alliance of Love (also after G. lieni) ; and arabesques (20 to 22), with border after liaphael Carriages: — On rt, (Xo, 1) : carriage sent in 174G by Frederick the Great to the Empress Elizabeth, restored in 18oG, The arms of Russia are en- crusted on the panels in imitation stones, and the imperial crown which surmounts the carriage is similarly decorated. Scat in front for i)a ges. The Princess Dagmar of Denmark made her solemn entry into St. Peters- burg in this carriage, seated next the empress. (2.) P^our-scated carriage, brought in 17G2 from Paris, restored IHoG. Panels by Boucher. The arms of Russia will be seen in the midst of a group of Naiades, The I'rinccss Dag- mar rode in this carriage on the occa- sion of her marriage. (33.) I'haetou of bronze gilt, built Kiissia. Bonte 1. — St. Petersburg : Imperial Carriages. 129 18oG at the Imperial Works, and used by high officers of the court at corona- tions. (4.) Carriage obtained in 17G5 from Count Orloff, and used by Catherine II. Panels by Gravelot, a distin- guished painter of allegories in reign of Louis XV. (34.) Calcche brought from Eng- land in 1795 by Prince Orloflf for Catherine II. Restored 185G. Panels said to be by Boucher; on the sides, Laljour, Abundance, Conmierce, In- dustry ; Cupids strewing flowers ; be- hind, Apollo and the Muses. The driving-box is ui>held by two eagles richly carved, while the back of the carriage is guarded by two figures of St. George and the Dragon. An im- jierial crown, jewelled, on roof. (30, 31.) Phaetons, like No. 33. (D.) Carriage purchased 17^4. Panels with cipher of 5s^icholas I. (10,) Purchased 1707, and used by Paul I, On left :— (S.) Carriage built 1793 by Boukcn- dahl for Catherine II. Restored 182G and 185G, Arms of Russia on panels in imitation stones. (14 to 17.) Carriages made at tlie Imperial Works, 18o3-lS5G. (3.) Carriage purchased 17G2. (12.) Purchased at Paris, 1825, by Prince Wolkonsky. (G.) Carriage purchased by Cathe- rine II, in 179:). I'ainting by Gravelot, In front '* Venus leaving her bath ;" on rt. panel, Juno ; on 1,, a Shepherd guarding his flock ; and behind, Olympus with Catherine bringing Peace and Plenty. The interior of this carriage, and the driving-seat, are richly decorated with Spanish point. 3rd Room. Tapestry. — Arabesques (49 to 51, after Raphael) ; 52, Triumph of Bacchus {G. Beni) ; 53, Triumph of Cupid ( G. L'rni). Carriages :— On rt. (32). Phaeton {vide 33). (5.) Carriage purchased by Cathe- rine II, in 179G, Panels by Boucher. Cipher of Catherine with allegories on doors. On panels, Cupids ; and on panel behind the carriage, a likeness of the empress. Two stools in front for pages. (13.) Carriage made at the Imperial Works, 1850. (11.) Brought from Paris, 1797. Panels by Boucher. Allegories with incrustations of mother of pearl. Paint- ing remarkably fine. (7.) Purchased in 1780 by Catherine II„ and used by consort of Nicholas I. at her coronation. Cipher of the Em- peror atronage of tJie Department of Do- mains and of the Agricultural Society. 20. The Smohif Church and School. ~ A long ride will bring the traveller trsburg ; its walls of stainless white being unpolluted by flag, banner, or trophy that tells of strife and blood. A high and beautifully designed iron grating, of which the rails, or rather pillars, are wound round with wreaths of vine-leaves and flowers in iron- work, surrounds the court-yard, and above it wave the elegant birch and lime. This edifice may be seen from the eastern suburb, from the extremity of Voskresenski-street, a mile and a hnlf in length, and from all quarters of the city, its elevation being 335 ft. (hi either side of the ch. is the Insti- tuti»m des Demoiselles Nobles, a build- ing dedicated to the education of young girls of noble and citizen birth, of whom not fewer than 400 are here Ijrought up. The Empress IMaria, wife of l*aul, the foundress and benefac- tress of the school, has a simple monu- ment in the ch. dedicated in her honour to St. Mary. A home for widows is attached to this establish- ment. 21. Monastery of St. Alexander Ncvski. — This is one of the most cele- brated monasteries in Russia — a Lavra, that is, the seat of a Metropolitan, and inferior only to the Lavra of the Trinity in Moscow, and to the Lavra of the Cave in Kief; other monastic establishments are only ^'' monastlrs." Its proper name is Alexander Nevskaya Sviatotroitskaya Lavra (the Alexander Nevsky's Hoiy Trinity Lavra). It stands, as the traveller will have no- ticed in his drive, at the extreme end of the Nevski Prospekt, where it occu- ])ies a large space, enclosing within its walls churches, towers, gardens, and monks' cells. The ch. and convent were founded by Peter the Great in honour of the canonized Grand Duke Alexander, who, in a great battle fought on this spot, defeated the Swedes and knights of the military orders, a.d. 1241 ; his remains were brought here Mitli much pomp by Peter from Wladimir. Tlie ch. and monastery were originally built of wood, in 1712; but stone was substi- tuted some years after. Pbter's suc- cessors increased the possessions and buildings of the cloister, and Catlierine built the Cathedral, one of the largest chs. in the capital. For the decoration of the interior, marble was brought from Italy, precious stones from Siberia, and pearls from Persia. It is further adorned with some good copies aft<3r (^uido, Rubens, and Perugino ; the altarpiece, the Annunciation, is by Raphael Mengs. On two great pillars opposite the altar are portraits of Peter the Great and Catherine II., larger than life. The shrine of Alexander Nevski is of massive silver, and, with the orna- ments around it, weighs about 3250 lbs. of pure metal ; the design is i)yramidal, 15 ft. high, surmounted by a cata- falque, and angels as large as life, with trumpets and silver flowers; also a quantity of bassi-rilievi, representing the deeds of the Saint. The keys of Adriauople are suspended near the tomb. The Nevski cloister has profited by the presents sent from Persia when the Russian ambassador Griboyedoff w^as murdered in Teheran. The Persian gifts consisted of a long train of rare animals, Persian wel)s, gold stutfs, and pearls. They reached St. Petersburg in the winter. The pearls, and gold- stufts, and rich sliawls were carried in large silver and gold dishes by mag- nificently dressed Persians. The Per- sian prince, Khosra Mirza. drove in an imperial state equipage with 6 horses ; the elephants, bearing on their backs towers filled with Indian warriors, had leather boots to protect them from the cold, and the cagesof the tigers anil lions were provided witli double ski'is of the northern polar bear. A portirn of H 3 132 Monie 1. — St. Petersburg : Churches. Sect. I. the pearls wore given to this monas- tery, which also has a rich collection of mitres set in jewels, pontifical robes of gold brocade, and souvenirs of indi- vidual metropolitans and princes; among them an episcopal staft' turned by Peter the Great, and presented by him to the first metropolitan of St. Petersburg ; anotlier of amber, from Catherine II. ; and a number of other valuables whicli, found elsewhere, singly, would be admired and described, but here, in the mass of treasures, are unnoticed. The crown of St. Alexander, and tlie bed on which Peter died, are among the most interesting objects. The Library, of al)out 10,(300 volumes, in(le])endently of a number of very valuable manuscripts, contains many rare specimens of the antiquities of Russia. The small cliapel attaclied to this convent contains the toml)s of several illustrious llussian families; that of tlio Xary.shkins bears tlie following inscription : — '• From tlieir race came Peter tiie Great." Here are also the tombs of Suwaroff (a plain marble tablet); Rumiantsoff ; the cliancellor Bezborodko ; Betskoi, the favourite minister of Catherine II.; Panin, her minister for foreign affairs, &c. ; and of numerous members of the imperial family. In the cemetery attached to the building many of tlie great Russian families bury their dead, and large sums are paid for permission to repose in this holy ground. The graves are consecpiently very close together, and the new ones generally covered with flowers, a pleasing trait of feeling frequently seen on the Continent. The anchor at the foot of the cross, a favourite emblem, is placed above many of the monuments. There are between 50] and GO monks here who superintend an ecclesiastical academy. The service is well performed at this monastery, and, being a fashionable church, the singing is good. The Emperor is generally present at a mass celebrated on the 30th August, O.S. 22. Preolmijoml'u (7/iw>v7«.— Thisch., the " Spass Preobrajeuski Sobor," be- longs to one of the oldest regiments of guards founded by Peter the (ireat.and is one of the most considerable of the city, and more than any other adorned, both without and within, with trophies from ctmquered nations; consecrated 1754; rebuilt 1827. The railing that surrounds the churchyard is formed of Turkish and French cannon. Around the cannon chains of ditierent thick- ness, gracefully twined, are hung like garlands between the columns ; on the sunnnit of each is a Russian double eagk^ of iron, with exi>anded wings. Within the ch. is adorned with fiags and halberds; the pillars look like palm-trees, of which every leaf is a lance. Here travellers are also shown a l)roduction of Russian inventive tah^it, the work of a connnon peasant. It is a large splendis of the Knights of St. John, and still contains the chair on which the Emperor sat as Grand Master. This ch. is fashionably at- tended, and the singing is particularly good. The Duke of Leuchtenberg, Consort of the Grand Duchess Marie Nicola- evna, lies buried there. 25. Ii}(s.fia Compamj, British Far- torij, and Chnpd.—A brief sketch of tluf intercourse between England and Russia may here prove of interest. The earliest mention in history of any connection between the two countries is about the year 1070, when Gyda, 'the daughter of Harold, was given in marriage l)y the King of Denmark to W^adimir, Grand Duke of ]\Iuscovy. Embassies bi'tween Russia and the countries of the Continent were first exchanged in the loth centy., and about this time the English Court ap- pears to have begiui to notice Russia. Henry Staftord, Earl of Wiltshire, and Baron Fitzwalter appeared in Russian dresses at a fancy ball given in the Parliament Hall at W\'stminster a.d. 1510. Tlu^ trade with Russia had long been in the hands of Flemish and Lithuanian merchants, when our more enterprising merchants begaii to devise means of getting the furs, wax, hemp, and ilax of Muscovy more cheaply and expeditiously than by way of the llans(.atic towns. Adventurous spirits even contemplated reaching India through the Russian dominions. Se- bastian Cabot, born at Bristol in 1477, conceived the design of reaching India and China by sailing northwards round Norway, and by his exertions was formed ''The Mystery, Company, and Fellowship of Mcrchaut Adven- turers for the Discovery of Unknown Lands, &c." In 1553 three ships were fitted out by this company under the command of Sir Hugh Willoughby and Richard Chancellor. Sir Hugh with two of the vessels entered a bay on the coast of Lapland, where he perished miserably with his com- panions — frozen to death. Richard Chancellor in the * Edward Bonaven- ture,' having been separated from the other ships in a storm, entered the White Sea alone, and reached the mouth of the Dwina. Having ascer- tained that the country which they had discovered was " Russia or Mus- covie," he declared to the astonished fishermen that they were " English- men sent into these coasts from the most excellent King Edward VI., having from him in commandment certain tilings to deliver to their King, and seeking nothing else but his amitie and friendshii), and traffique with his people, Avhereby they doubted not but that great commoditie and l)rofit would grow to the subjects of both kingdoms." The fishermen, hav- ing understood, it is to be presumed by signs, the object of the expedition, '' heard those things very gladly, and promised their aid and furtherance to acquaint their King out of hand with so honest and reasonable a request." John the Terrible was then Tsar, and in the zenith of his power and glory as conqueror of Kazan and Siberia. He received Chancellor, and the two merchants. Burton and Edwards, who accomi)anied him, very graciously, and entertained them at a feast of great splendour. In compliance with Chan- cellor's request that the establishment of commercial relations might be per- mitted IjetW'Cen England and Russia, a letter was despatched by the Tsar to King Edward assuring him that " his shippes and vessels may come as often as they please;" "and," wrote the Tsar, '• send me one of your Majesties coimcill to treat with us, whereby your countrey merchants male with all kind of wares, and wheare they will, make their market in our dominions, and there to have their free market with all free liberties through my 134 Route 1. — St. Petersburg : British Factory. Sect. I. whole doniiuions, and goo at tlioir pleasure, witliout any lett, damage, or impediment, according and by this onr lettre." This letter found Queen Mary on tlie throne : and on tlie 2(3tli Feb. 1555, a new Company was formed in London by special charter of Pliilip and Mary, conveying the exclusive privilege of trading with Russia. Chancellor returned to IMoscow in 1555 with a reply from Philip and Mary. Two merchants, George Kill- ingwortli and Kichard Say, went witli him, and remained tlicre as commer- cial agents. TJie Tsar then gave the Company a charter to trade througli- out his dominions witliout paying any taxes : on tlie strength of which the Bay of St. Nicholas, where the English ships had first anchored, soon became an important i»lace of trade. In 15r)(J Chancellor left Russia with 4 heavily- laden shijis and an ambassador from John the Terrible, Nepeya by name, with a suite of 16 persons. A storm scattered the ships, and only one reached London in safety. The ' VA- ward Bona venture' parted from her anchors on the coast of Aberdeenshire and was wrecked, by which Richard Chancellor with his son and 7 Russians were drowned. The ambassador, saved almost by a miracle, proceeded to Edinburgh and thence to Loudon, where he was received with great pomp in 1557. Voyages and embassies now became frequent. At first the tradi' was mo.st prosper- ous, but the English merchants began to quarrel amongst themselves, and had many complaints against the Tsar's officers. In 15G7 Queen Eliza- beth granted a new charter to the Com- pany, and stipulated with the Tsar that none but English ships should be em- ployed in the trade. The Comi)any had a right to seize any foreigner attem})t- ing to reach India, Persia, or China by way of Russia, and to confiscate his goods. The merchants obtained i)ermis- sion to smelt dow'n foreign dollars and to stamp them anew as current coin. Under such advantages they seized all the most important commercial centres in Russia. Thcv had an agencv at Moscow, a factory at Holmogory (at the mouth of the Dwina), and depots at Novgorod, Pskof, Jaroslaf, Kazan, Astrakhan, Kostroma, &c., where they sold their goods at '200 and JJOO per cent. ])rf>fit. The people complained of their proceedings, and the Tsar ex- ])ressed his displeasure to Mr. Thomas Randolph, ambassador in 1501). The iMiglish, on the other liand, retorted that they wore fast being ruined by the execution of so many of their debtors. They had certainly much to contend with — civil commotions, pesti- lence, and fiimine : their iiouse at Mos- cow was destroyed by the Tartars in 1571, when about 15 English men and women perished in the tiames. John the 'J'errible made an over- ture for the hand of Queen Eliza- beth, and wished to enter intf) a treaty to the efteet that "she would be kind to his friends, l>ut hostile to his enemies, and he would be the same to hers." The Queen was to allow jx^rsons skilled in shipbuilding and navigators to come to Russia, to permit artillery and other warlike stores to be sent froui England; and '* it was to be ratified by oath between her and himself that either sovereign might take refuge in the country of the other in case di.sturbances in their own realm should compel them to do so." Queen Elizabeth merely thanked John the Terrible for this manifesta- tion of good-will, and proposed in 1581 that lie should many Lady Mary Hastings, daughter of the Earl of liuiitingdou. The Tsar's envoy re- ported that the lady in question wa.s '60 years old, '• tall, well-built, though thin," that she had '• a clear com- plexion, grey eyes, red hair, a straight nose, and long fingers." The lady was at first not averse to the marriage, but she soon asked the Queen to s}»aro her ; '' for being," Hume says, *■* in- lV)rmed of the barbarous manner of the country, she wisely declined i)ur- chasing an empire at the exjieiise of her ease and safety." In return for the hand f)f Lady INIary the Tsar liad jiromised most important privi- leges to the Coini>any, but the mer- chants were soon after informed liy Kussia. Boute 1. — St. Petershurrj : British Factory. 135 the boyars that " their English Tsar was dead." The Tsar Boris Godunoff (a.d. 1598), although favourable to the English trade, refused to renew tho.se exclusive jirivileges which it had enjoyed, and other nations were allowed to partici- ])ate in the commerce of the country. In 1G4(> the native merchants coin- ])lainedthat the P^nglish '' were ruining tliein by their exactions," and the fol- lowing year the Tsar took advantage of the civil wars in England, and, con- demning the people *'wlio had put their Charles to death," closed all the ix)rts against them with the exception of Archangel. Cromwell's envoy was not admitted by the Tsar, who subse- quently corresponded with Charles II. when the latter was hi exile. At the Restoration the Earl of Carlisle was sent to ask for a renewal of the ancient privileges of the Russia Company, but Jiis mission was unsuccessful. Another class of Englishmen began to visit Russia about this period. The.se were officers, mostly Scottish, who were then seeking their fortunes in almost every country in Euroi)e. The most dis- tinguished of these was Patrick Gor- don, who, under Colonel Crawfurd, assisted in forming the first regu- lar regiment that Russia possessed. Alx)ut 40 Engli.sh officers were em- ployed in drilling the soldiers who saved Peter the Great by discomfit- ing the unruly Streltsi. The next great event in the intercourse between Russia and England was the visit of Peter the Great to London, for an account of which the traveller is re- ferred to History. We may mention here, as an interesting fact in connec- tion with Peter the Great's visit, that his boon companion in London, Lord Peregrine, Marquis of Carmarthen, obtained by ukaz dated lOtli April, 1G98. the exclusive right of supplying Russia with tobacco. In the reign of Catherine 11. English naval officers came over in considerable numbers to enter the Russian navy. Many of their descendants are at present in the service of the Russian crown. In the r.'ign of the Em]ieror Paul an em- b.irgo was laid on British shipping in the expectation of a war with England, which happily never arose until in 1854 it became necessary to maintain by arms the integrity of the dominions of the Sultan. The British factory, in the mean while, originated at Archangel in 171G, when the English merchants at that place embodied themselves into a company, and fixed a rate on goods imported and exported and a jiort- charge on British ships. They at the same time applied for a minister of the Church. Until the trade was removed to St. Petersburg by Peter the Great it was the practice of the Factory to reside at Archangel during the sum- mer and at Moscow in winter, having a chapel at both places and taking their minister with them. Tlie Factory removed to St. Petersburg in 172:j. The i)rincii)al objects which from the first engaged the attention of the Factory were the maintenance of the Church establishment and the regulation of charges on British shijjs and goods. In 1758 the Factory bought with their own funds, assisted by voluntary contributions, their present church premises on the English Quay. A treaty of commerce, signed between Great liritaiii and Russia in 17GG, having expired in 1787, G members of the Factory left the corporation and traded separately as '' Foreign Guests," a denomination established by the Russian Municipal Code of 1785. The Factory continued to exist neverthe- less, but only as a Committee for the Management of Church Afl;airs, and, notwithstanding some tedious disputes with the Russia Company, succeeded in establishing their right to elect a chaplain and to levy port-charges— a right which the Russia Company asserted only belonged to themselves. The factory charges fall very heavily ui)on British ships, which have thus been forced to support a church for the almost exclusive use of British resi- dents at St. Petersburg. The continuance of the charge of " church money "' is an abuse of ancient custom much complained of, particu- larly since the charge has not the direct siineticn either of the Russian 13G Boide 1. — St. Petersburg : Monuments. Sect. I. or British Covrrnniciit. Moreover, the accumulations of tlu^ " Cominittco of the Chapel of the British Factory " are not far short of 35,000/., invested in Russian funds — a sum whicli, with j)roper ninna.ujenient, and, if necessary, sui)pleinentcd Ijy pew rents, would be amply sulHoicnt for tlie maintenance of the cliurch esinblislnnent and the relief of tlie Britisli poor. As far us Great Britain is concerned, both the Itussia Company and the British Fac- tory in Russia have been abolished by Act of Parliament. On the strength of an IJkaz of 1S()7, the greater part of the meml)ers of the Factory liecnme " Foreign Guests," and continued to trade as such until recent enliglitcned enactments remov«'d all tlie dis!i])iliti(s under which foreign merchants had laboured, and gave them in respect to tlicir commerce the ju-ivileges of natural-born subjects of II. I. JM. The British Ambassadv)r was ordered to leave St. Petersburg 27th Oct. 1S07, and during the continental war, which lasted until 1812, the British mer- cliants were not permitted to trade. In 1813 tlic Russia Comi)any agreed to contribute 40007. towards the repairs of the chapel, and in 1814 a grant of 5000?. was procured from Parliament for tlie same object. The chapel, re- built in 1815, is oneof the handsomest l)laces of English Protestant worship on the Continent. The copy of Ru- bens's * Descent from the Cross * over the altar was presented in 1815 by Sir James Riddell, Bart. The pews are free, and will contain a congrega- tion of about 500. The total number of British resi- dents at St. Petersburg and its vicinity is estimated at nearly 3000. The ser- vices at the chapel, on Sundays, com- mence at the hours of 11 and 4. The cliaplain resides on the premises, where an extensive circulating library has also been established. The American or Metliodist Chapel, supported by voluntary contributions, is situated near tiic Post-office. 2G. M0NU3IENTS. 1 . The Eqfifffrlan Statue of Peter the Great ranks tirst among the monuments of St. l'etcrs])urg. It stands oj)posito tlie Isaac Cathedral, in the Admiralty Square. It was cast by Falconet, a Frenchman, but the head was modelled by Marie Callot. The Emperor is admirably rc})rosented reining in his horse on the brink of a rock, on both sides of which, as well as in front, steep precipices threaten immediate destruction. His face is turned to- wards the Neva, his outstretched hand pointing to the residt of his thought and will ; while a serpent, emblematical of the difficulties which Peter encountered, is trodden under foot by the spirited charger. The whole is wonderfully balanced on the hinder legs and the tail of the horse, int5 which a weight of 10,000 lbs. has been thrown. The hugh block of granite which forms the i)edestil, and weighs 1500 tons, was brought from Lakhta, a Finnish village, 4 m. from St. I'eters- burg, and may have been torn by the Deluge from the Swedish mountains ; it was originally 45 ft long, 30 ft. high, and 25 ft. in width ; but in cutting it the mass broke in two pieces, which were subsequently joined. It is now only 14 ft. high, 20 ft. broad, and 43 ft. long; the statue is 17i ft. in height. On the two long sides are chiselled the following inscriptions in Russian and Latin : " Petru Pervomu, — Ekaterina Vtoraya." " Petro Prime, Catharina Secunda." mdcclxxxu. 2. TJie Alexander Column. — In the open space between the Etat Major and the Winter Palace stands the greatest monolith of modern times, the column erected, 1832, to the memory of the Emperor Alexander I. : — a single shaft of red granite, which, exclusive of pedestal and capital, is 84 ft. in height. This beautiful monu- ment is the work of M. Mcmtferrand, the architect of the Isaac Church. The shaft originally measured 102 ft., but it was subsequently shortened to Eussia. Houte 1. — St. Petersburg : Monuments. 137 its present dimensions from a fear that its diameter (14 ft.) was insufficient for so great a length. The base and l^cdcstal are also composed of one enormous block of the same red granite, of the height of about 25 ft., and of nearly the same length and Ijreadth; the capital measures Itj ft., the statue of the angel on the summit 14 ft., and the cross 7 ft., in all 154 ft. in. Turkish caniuni were smelted down for the cai)ital and the ornaments on the pedestal. As the whole of St. I'etersburg is built on a morass, it was thought necessary to drive no fewer than G successive rows of piles, in order to sustain so immense a weight as this standing upon so con- finetl a base ; the shaft of the column alone is computed to weigh nearly 400 tons, and the massive pedestal must materially increase the tremendous jiressure. The statue was raised in its rough state, and polished after it was lirmly fixed on its i>resent elevation. On the pedestal — which, like the capital, is ornamented with bronze — is the following short and well-chosen inscription : — " To Alexander the First, Grateful Russia." The eye rests with pleasure on this polished monument : and in any other city its enormous size would make a greater impression. The inclemency of the climate has considerably injured the monolith. The frost has produced several lissures, which have been care- fully cemented. The polished surface of the granite exhibits several patches. 3. Rumiantsof Ohelisl: — On the Vassili Ostrotf/ near the Academy of Arts, in the middle of a new square. It was originally erected, in 17U0, on the " Champ de Mars," in honour of Field-Marshal RumiantsofF Za- dunaiski. It was removed to its l)resent site in 1821, and consists of an obelisk of Idack marble on a pedestal of a reddish marble, orna- mented with festoons and bas-reliefs. It is surmounted by the eagle of Russia, with extended wings, resting on a globe, which, together with the eagle, is gilt. The total height of the monument is 70 ft. The pedestal bears the laconic inscription, " To the vic- tories of Rumiantsoft"." 4. Smcaroff Monument, near the Marble Palace and facing the Trinity Bridge. — This is a Ijronze statue, rc- lirescnting Prince Suwarolf on foot, dressed as a Roman, wiehling a sword in the right hand and holding a shield in the left, in defence, over the crowns of the Pope, of Naples, and of Sar- dinia. Erected 1801. The house to the rt. of the statue is occu^ned by the British Embassy. 5. Nicholas Monument. — Between the Leuchtenberg Palace and St. Isaac's. An equestrian .statue, repre- senting the Emperor Nicholas in the uniforin of the Horse Guards. The huge pedestal is formed of granite of various colours. The bas-reliefs re- present the principal episodes in the life of the sovereign, which, together with the emblematical figures at the four corners, will easily be rc^coguised by those who have studied the history of the reign of Nicholas I. The 4 em- blematical figures have been cast after portraits of tiie consort of Nicholas and of his 3 daughters. G. Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great. — Erected, as already mentioned, by the Emperor Paul, with the in- scription in letters of gold, "The grandson to the grandfather, 1800." The i)edestal is of marble, and Peter the Great is represented on it riding a charger, and dressed as a Roman general, with a wreath of laurel round his head, and a baton in his right hand. It was cast under the reign of the Empress Elizabeth (while Paul was yet heir-apparent), by Martelli, an Italian artist. The reliefs on either side of the ix'destal represent the battle of Poltava, and the taking of Schliisselburg. 7. Monuuifnt to Field- Ma rah ah Par- clayde Tolhj andKoutousof.—Oijpo&ita the Kazan Cathedral. These were erected in 183G. Barclay de Tolly beat Yandammc at Culm, contributed to the victory at Leips'c, and to the 138 Boiite 1. — St. Pefershurg : Monuments. Sect. I. capitulation of Paris ; while Koutou- soff was considered the saviour of liis country in 1812. Both statues were modelled by a Russian sculptor, Boris Orlofsky. 8. Monument to Sir James Wijlie, Barf. — Erected 1859, in the inner court of the Imperial Academy of Medicine, in reco<^nition of the services which that distinguished Scotclnnan rendered to Russia as President of the Academy under the reiijjns of the Emperors Alexander I. ami Nicholas. Tlie baronet is seated, in full uniform, holding in his hand the reformed statutes of the Academy. The square l)edestal is of grey marble, ornamented at the 4 corners witli cariatides of great size. On tliree sides of the l)edestal are bas-reliefs representing various episodes in the life of the doctor, together with liis coat of arms and those of the Academy. Respecting tlie career of Sir James Wylie, Dr. Lyall says in his ' Travels in Russia,' " Sir James AV\ylie, who is chief of the military divisitm, is one of the most notorious and most pow- erful individuals in Russia Tlirougli the interest of the late Dr. Rogerson he wasa])pointed c>perator at the court, and I believe he retained this situation wliilst he lived in tlie family of Count HtroganofT. A new and imj)ortant epoch in liis life ap- l)roached, and tlie whim of the Emperor Paul led to his rise in life. This monarcli had raised one of his lowest attendants to the rank of count, and had be>towed u])on him an ami)l(» fortune in money and i)ntperty. Count Kutrdsof, for this was the said count's name, was seized with a violent in- flammation of the fore part of the neck that terminated in a large abscess, by which his excellency endured great pain and extreme dilficulty of resj)ira- tion. Indeed he was threatened with suifocation. Tlie patient was attended by a number of the iirftit medical men at court, who never thought of the only means of relief, the opening of the abscess. In the extremity of the disease some friends advised the roniit to send for Dr. AVylie in the midlle of the night. On his arrival this gentleman opened the tumour, and an immense quantity of matter was eva- cuated. In an instant Count Kutaisof was restoretl to comparative health. On the following morning Paul, as usual, sent to inquire respecting the count's state, and was astonished at the above relation. Paul then sent for Dr. AVylie, and aj^pointed him to attend the court as physician. After Count Kutrdsof's recovery, and Sir James Wylie's advancement, it was jocularly reported that ' Dr. Wylie had made liis fortune by cutting Count Kntriisofs throat.' .... After I'aul's death, and Alexander's ascent to the throne. Sir James Wylie still preserved his place, and has success- ively been appointed his majesty's body surgeon and i)hysiciaii, chief of the medical military department, president of the INIedico-Chirurgical Academy, &o., and has had numerous Russian and foreign orders bestowed ui)on him. Besides, he has been chosen a member of almost all the learned societies in Russia, and also of a few in Great Britain and upon the Continent. In addition to all these distinctions, after sharing the dangers and the honours of the cam- paign of lSl'2-18, by i)articular request of the Emperor Alexander, he was knighted by the Prince Regent on botird one of his majesty's .sliijis at Portsmouth, IMatofs sword being used on the occasion. He was also made a baronet of Creat Britain." It was Sir James Wylie that amputated ■Moreau's leg after the battle of Leip- sic. 27. Markets and PrnciiASEs. The principal market at St. Peters- burg is called the Gostinnoi-Dvor. It is situated in the Nevski Perspective, and was erected between 1755 and 178.>. There is in most Russian cities of imjH)rtance, and generally in a central j>osition, a Gostinnoi Dror, where all tlie more important articles of com- merce are collected for sale. It is Eussia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Markets. 139 usually a large building, consisting of a ground floor and an upper floor. The upper floor is chiefly reserved for wholesale dealings: the ground-floor consists of a multitude of shops in which the various descriptions of mer- chandise are sold by retail. The dwellings of the merchants are away from these markets ; and. when the hours of business are over, each trades- man locks up his own shop or stall, and commits the whole building for the night to the guardianship of the watch- men and their dogs. The iiOi>tinnoi Dror of St. Peters- burg is a colossal building, one side being in the Xevski Prospekt, and another in the Bolshai'a Sadovaia, or Great Garden-street, through which, and some f)f the adjoining streets, extend a number of shops and ware- houses, giving to that part of the town the appearance of a perpetual fair. The better descrii>tion of Russian goods will be f(mnd in the Gostinnol JJvor ; tlii>se of an inferior kind in the adjoining markets, the Apraxin Rinok ami the Stchukin Dvor, which lie a little farther on in the Bolshaia Sa- dovaia. Following the last-named street, which is bordered throughout its whole length by shops, the stranger will arrive at an open place, the Sennaia Ploschad, or hay-market, the ])rincij)alprovision-marketofSt.l*eters- burgh, which is well worth seeing in winter on account of the odd ai)pear- ance of the frozen animals and birds oftered for sale. The lanes and alleys that intersect these markets are overrun througliont the day by a crowd of purchasers. In a city containing half a million of inha- bitants there must at all times be a great and urgent demand for a vast variety of articles ; but there are many reasons why this should be more the case in St. I'etersburg than in any other capital. In the flrst place, there is no other European capital where the great bulk of the inhabitants, owing to the system of Customs' protection, if not prohibition, that prevails, make use of goods of such inferior quality, «»r where, consequently, they have such frequent occasion to Iniy new- articles, or to have the old ones re- paired. Then there is no other capital where the people are so capricious and so fond of change. The wealthy Rus- sians are here one day and gone the next ; now travelling for the benefit of their health, now repairing to the country to re-establish their rinances by a temporary retirement, and then reappearing on the banks of the Neva, to put their revenues (much dimi- nished Ijy the Emancipation) into cir- culation. This constant fluctuation leads daily to tlie dissolution and to the formation of a number of establish- ments, and makes it necessary that there should be at all times a greater stock of all things required for the outfit of a family than would be requisite in a town of equal extent, but with a more settled i)oi^ulation. A Russian seldom buys anything till just when he wants to use it, and, as he cannot then wait, he must have it ready to his hand. Articles, which in other countries are generally ordered before- hand from a tradesman, are here bought ready for immediate use. The traveller will resort to these markets, partly to observe, as he lounges along the arcades, the cha- racteristic manners of the dealers, but l)rincipally with the intention of buy- ing some few articles as presents for distribution at home. His first object is commendable, but there is very little on which he can lay out his money with advantage and satisfaction in the markets here described. The only articles really national and peculiar to be found there are the embroidered slippers, cushions, and sashes of Torjok. These should be purchased at No. GO, in tiie centre of the Gostinnoi Dvor, facing the Sadovava or Garden-street. German is spoken, and the prices are fixed. In other shops a system of bargaining is pursued which always leaves the purchaser in doubt whether he has really paid the minimum value. Gold brocades are sold in a row of shops called the Perinny Riad. They are much used in England for furni- ture. There are several old curiosity and picture shops within the Apraxin Dvor, where old china and many 140 Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Kospitah. Sect. I. articles of virtu may be picked up by tlio.se who know the language and can barijjain. Stolen goods (if every description abound in the latter market. Both the Apraxin and the Stciiukin markets were Inirned down in 18G'2. They have since been liandsomely re- built. For i)urc bases of jewellery the tourist is reconnnended to the '• Eng- lisli Magazine," where by for the best selection of goods in every depart- ment will be found. Tlie prices are perhaps a little higlier than in otlier sliops, but the superiority of the articles and thc^ advantage of speak- hig English afford full compensation. Schnecgas, jeweller, in Great jNIorskoy Street, also keeps a large stock of mahicliite and lapis-lazuli ornaments at moderate i)rices. Travellers should visit Sazikofs shop in theNevsky, fomous for silver goods. Many pretty little articles may be pur- chased there for keepsakes. Circassian Ix.'lte and ornaments, in steel and silver, arc much in fashion, as well as Caucasian hoods, of bright- coloured clotli and handsomely braided. These are sold in two shops in tlie Per- spective, on i\\(\ left-hand side, a little beyond the Kazan Cathedral. The best shop is Hazarof's. Views of St. Petersburg may be obtained at Daz- ziaro's, Beggrow's, and at the " Palette do Raphael." 28. Hospitals and Medical Advice. The capital is well provided with hospitals endowed by the State and supported by contributions. Small monthly ])ayments are exacted, but there is a certsiin number of free beds in each hospital, to which the i)oor have access. The principal hospits^ls l! Obukhoff, founded 1782. This is a building of 2 stories, with a front- age of GOO ft., and stands in very spa- cious grounds of its own. The numljer of beds is 450, but there is a special liosjutal in connection with it, for i)ri- soners, with 200 beds. Fifteen medi- cal men are attached to it. 2. Kalinkin, estjiblished 1779, and now ai)i)roi)riated to female syphilitic cases. 3. Marie Hos]>ital, est'iblished 1803. An immense building with 2 wings, 400 beds. 4. •■• Chernorabochy," or liosi)ital for workmen. Supi)orted out of a ttix of (jO cop. levied on the lower classes in towns. In addition to these hospitals, con- ducted on the most ]ierfect systems, are many charitiible institutions, such for instance as the Hosi)ital and Dis- })ensary of the Sisters of INIercy, the Ophthalmic Ilosjtital, the Hospitil of St. Mary INIagdaleu, ».\:c. A medical man will have no diffi- cultv in obtjiining admission to tho civil and militjiry hospitals of St. Petersburg. The average daily number of sick in the civil hospitals of St. Pi'ters- burg, during an ordinary seascm, is 4000. The average mortality in tho civil hospitals is 1 in 10 or 17. There is a lunatic asylum, with about 250 inmates, a few miles on the road to Peterhof. The practitioners at all these estidilishments are mostly German'; and the mortality, from the weakness of the constitutions of the i)aticnts, and l)artly from their unbelief in medical science, is excessive, comjiared with that of other cities. The death- rate in Euroi)ean Russia is 3*43 i)er cent. Great mortality has hitherto prevailed in the naval and militjiry hospitals : at tho former the ratio of deaths to recoveries, in 1857, was 1 in 14',, the surgical operations being more especially fatjil ; but a better systtan of diet and other improvements have been introduced with a beneficial effect. Travellers are warned not to drink the water of the Neva ; its dis- agreeable effects are sometimes felt even when taken in the shajie <)ftoa. For further medical information, vide Introiluction. Dr. Carrick, M.D., is the physician to the British Embassy. Russia. Boute 1. — St. Pefcrshnrr/ : TJieatres. 141 29. Theathes. There are four public Theatres at St. Petersburg: 1, the Great Theatre; 2, the INIarie Theatre (both these in the same square l)etween the Moika and Catherine Canals) ; 3, Alexander Theatre, in the Nevski Perspective; and 4, Michael Theatre, near the palaces of that name : all under the management of goverinnent. 1. The Great Theatre is devoted during the winter season (with the ex- ception of Lent) to the Italian ojjera, for which one of the best troupes in Eurojje is always engaged. The first great musical work produced in Russia, Paisiello's ' Barbiere di Siviglia,' was originally performed at St. Peters- burg in 1780. All the most approved operas are reproduceil here with much success. The mlse en scene is always most perfect, and the costumes rich and true. A very large sum is de- voted yearly by the government to the cultivation of the histrionic art in all its branches, and a large school is maintained for the education of act- resses and ballet-dancers. The ballets here i^iveu'.are very much frequented. Of tliese the ' Fille de Pharaon,' the 'Tsar devitsa' or Maiden Tsar, and the 'Golden Fish' (both the latter being based on national popular le- gends), are admirably rendered. The best ballets are generally given on Sundays. The Great Theatre was originally built in 1784 ; it was burnt down in 1817, and renovated in 1830. There are G tiers of boxes and 17 rows of chairs, or room for about ^000 persons. The prices of the boxes vary from 25 rs. to 5 rs. The pit-stalls of the first 3 rows are 8 and G rs. ; the furthest are 2 rs. On benefit nights the prices are considerably raised. Masked balls on a large scale, frequented by the Emi)eror and members of the Imp. Family, are given here during the winter season. 2. The Marie Theatre is appropriated to the Russian opera and drama. Pro- fane music has been much cidtivatcd in Russia of late years. Bortniansky was a great reformer of Russian sacred music about the year 1780, and Alexis Lvoif was the first Russian who com- posed operatic music. He is the author of the Russian National Anthem. Tho most remarkable composer, however, is Glinka., who.-5e opera of ' Jizn za Tsaria '(l^ifr ff'^* the Tsar) is admirable for the correctness of its composition, and for the beauty of its melodies, which are all national. The subject of this very popular opera is the de- votion of a peasant who saved the Tsar IMiehael by leading a detachment of Poles who were seeking him into a deep and thick forest, where they all perished. Vcrstofsky has written tho nmsic of several vaudevilles, and some comic operas, of which the best known is ' The Tomb of Askold.' The opera 1)y Glinka affords an opportunity of studying Russian melodies and cos- tumes, which should be eagerly seized by the traveller. The "Mazurka," a Polish dance, much in fashion in Russia, is introduced into one of tho acts. Shakspearian tragedies in a Russian translation are occasionally given here. The prices are lower than at the Great Theatre. 3. Alexander Theatre.'— Korc Rus- sian comedies and dramas are acted. Griboyedoft's comedy, ' Sorrow comes from Wit,' a satire on Moscow^ so- ciety, and Gogol's * Reviser,' in which the corruption of the old Russian offi- cial is well portrayed, are well worth seeing for the sake of the acting and the scenes of Russian life which they hold up to view, and which are in great part intelligible, even in the absence of a knowledge of the Russian language. This theatre was opened in 1832" It has G tiers of boxes and 9 rows of stalls. The prices are very moderate. It possesses none of the beauty and magnificence of the two theatres already mentioned. 4. Michael Theatre, opened in 1833. French and German plays are per- formed here in winter by troupes as good as any on the Continent. All 142 Boiite 1. — St. Pefcrshurg : Chibs ; Societies. Sect. I. Eussia. Boutc 1. — St. Pctershurg : Summer Gardens. 143 the most popular farces of the Parisian stage are reproduced licre with very great success. The ( Jreat and IVIichael Theatres are generally very nnnieroiisly attended. Travellers should ajijily or send early f(n- tickets. French spoken at the box-oflfice. In summer, theatrical re- jtn^sentations are occasionally given tit a theatre on Kamennoi island. oO. Chths and Re>ifaurant8. The principal club is called the English Club, because it was founded in 1770 by an English mereliant of the name of (iardener. It is situated on tiie Fon- tanka Canal, near the Anitchkolf JJridge. Admission through a mem- ber. Very few of the English resi- (h'uts now belong to it. The club which is likely to be of most use ttion balls are given during the winter season. The Agricultural Club, in the No- bility Assembly-house, combines ad- vantages of a social and domestic character with those of a learned so- ciety, where subjects of rural economy are formally discussed. The Imi)erial Yacht Club, which is the most exclu- sive, is in Great INIorskoy-street. The summer station of the Eiver Yacht Club is on Yelaghin Island, where the large collection of boats and the building-sheds of the club will well rei)ay a visit. Vide JJiurcs. Th«^ best Iteatnurauts are Uusaux's, Mar- tin's, and Bon I's, in Great Morskoy- street, and Doiiou's. at the Singer's Bridge. Dinners from 1 r. to any price. Excellent luncheons may be ob- tained at Wolff's and Dominique's Bestaurants, both in the Nevski Per- si)ective. 31. Learned Societies. — Foremost amongst these is the Imperial Geogra- jihical Society, establisiied in ISI'), and now inuler the presidency of H.I.H. the Grani (a small but beautiful specimen of this master), Cima da Conegliano, SebastiandelPiombo, Bubens, Van der Heist, Nicolas 3Iaes, Peter de Hoogh, Adrian Vandevelde, and Buysdael. A few doors from Count 1*. Stroga- noflfs house in th(^ Mokhovaia is the collection of Mr. YakuntchikofF, con- taining some good pictures of the modern Dutch, Flemisli, and French Bchofds ; amongst others, the repetition of the great picture in the Luxem- bourg, by Bosa Bonheur. IMr. Dru- jinin, a wealthy proprietor of mines in Siberia, who lives in the same street, has a beautiful sea-piece by Buysdael, and some curious specimens of pre- cious stones and minerals from his. mines. The once celebrated collection of marbles, bronzes, pictures, and curiosities of all kinds, which belonged to Monferrand the architect, is now dispersed. The collection of Senator Smirnoif contains some excellent por- traits : Catherine II., by Lampi ; the painters Largilliere, Bigaud, and Da- vid, by themselves; Cosmo I., by Bronzino; a portrait, by Antonio Moro ; the Infant Don Fernando, saii)osite the Sum- mer Garden. The tourist should visit the extensive establishment of the Eiver Yacht Club on Yelagin Island. On his way back to town he should drive to Islers establisliment for Min- eral Waters at Aovaia Derevnia, the Cremorne of St. Petersburg without the dancing. Several other [places of entertainment, with dancing, will l>e passed ; but a visit to these we leave to tlie tastes and inclinations of the tourist. Tlie Botanical Gardens on Ai)othe- caries' Ishnid, oi)en to the public, may interest the horticulturist. The science of hot-house gardening is here brought to the utmost jierfection, and one of the finest assortments of tropical i)lants has been collected amid the snows of the north. The collection of Orchi- daceous i^lants is one of the best in Europe. The more distant drives can only be undertaken under the guidance of a residi'iit. Pergola, Murina, and other places further in Finland, are strewed with pretty villas, where merriment and hospitality aV)ound. A very short drive through the streets of St. Petersburg will bring the visitor to the Mosroio Gate or Tri- umphal Arch, where the oM road tansc of water, studded with busy craft under sail and steam. It was built by Menschi- kolf in 1724, and confiscated on his attainder. Subsequently it became the favourite residence of Peter III., who surrounde be obtained- in these gardens. A little stream which flows through them sets in motion a miniature mill, constructed for the children of tlie Emperor Nicholas. Visitors preferring to dine or take luncheon at Peterhof will find a good hotel close trilliants. Several swords, stud- ded with diamonds, are also preserved here ; for the most part presents from various sovereigns to the present Em- peror. But this arsenal would require a volume to itself, and oilers inexhaust- ible interest to the artist in min«l, and a very treasury of beautiful sub- jects to the artist in profession. They are minuUly described in a French catalogue which may be purehascxl at the door. Visitors shouhl ask to see the Polish standards, weapons, and uniforms, taken in the insurrection of 18G3, which are kejtt in an upper chamber of the Arsenal. Hie grounds around the palace are 18 m. in circumference, and contiiiu plenty of larch, oak, and elm, which seem to flourish ; the gardens arc cer- taiidy the most carefully ke])t in the world ; the trees and flowers are watched and inspected with the most anxious minuteness. The odd ca]>rices exhibited in the decoration of the grounds are really extraordinary, and so numerous that it would be ditlicult to enumerate them all. In one corner is the tower of an ornamental building of several stories, where Alexander II. resided with his tutor, when heir apparent ; in anotlier are the baby -houses of the young Grand Duchesses, where they carried on a mimic menage. In front of a Chinese tower is a high pole, rigged like the mast of a frigat(\ On one of the ponds is a fleet of pigmy vessels, intc'uded to amuse tlie Grand Duke Constanthie, now High Admiral, in his professional studies. In addition to all these strange objects are a theatre, a Chinese village, a Dutch and Swiss cow-house, a Turkish kiosk, a summer-house in the form of an Ionic colonnade suj)- ])orting an aerial garden, planted with flowers, a Gothic building called the Admiralty, a marble bridge with Corin- thian columns of polished marble, also rostral pillars and bronze statues, which Catherine erected to her favourites; amongst these is a column to Orloff. There are likewise some commemora- tive monuments raised by Alexander I. 1o his "companions in arms," inter- mingled with fields of roses, hermit- rr \ ages, artificial ruins, Roman tombs, grottoes, and waterfalls. One of the prettiest spots in Ihe gardens is a Pavilion at the end of a small lake where the Grand Duchess Alexandrina, the amiable daughter of Nicholas, used to feed her swans, re- placed since her premature death by black ones. Her jjicture hangs there with one of her sayings under it: " Je sais, pai)a, que vous n'avez pas de plus grand i)laisir ({ue d'en fairea maman." Her full-length marble figure, with a child in her arms, stands in an alcove, surrounded bv a handsome railin'^ The celebrated Statue of our Saviour by Danneker is shown in the artificial ruin of a castle in the park. From Tsar.>;k(Xi the traveller is re- commended to drive to PavJofsk, 3 m. beyond, in the carriage which conveyed liini to the several sights ; returning to St. I*etersburg by rail. Pavlofsk was built in 1780 and restored in J 803. The gardens are very extensive and ' well laid out over the most picturesque accidents of country. They are full of clialets, pavilions, temples, and mor- tuary chapels. The palace is of very simple architecture, and behmgs to the (J rand Duke Constantine. A short walk in the grounds will aflbrd all the ])leasure and information that are to be derived from a visit, not forgetting, of course, the excellent orchestra which jdays daily at the Rly. Stat, or Vaux- hall, where tourists may dine or take ttni after their long excursion. 4. — Pulhova Ohservatorij. — This ex- cursion may be made by road from St. Petersburg (20 v.), or by taking the train l)y the Tsarskoe' Selo or the Warsaw line to Tsarskoe' Selo, aud driving thence to the Observatory, ^yhich is open to visitors on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 2 P.M. Admission in the evening only by express permission of the Director. The Inq)erial (Observatory of Pid- kova was founded in 1838, by the Emj)eror Nicholas, on a scale of great magnificence. The splendid in.stru- iiients which it contains weri' purchased from the best makers in Europe for about 38,000Z., while the cost of con- struction exceeded 300,000?. It stands on a considerable eminence, isolated from other buildings within a circum- ference of about a mile. Since its foundation the Observatory has made many important contributions to the science of Astronomy ; the name of Struve, father and son. Directors of the Observatory, are too well known in Europe fo need any comment here. Struve's measurement of the arc of the meridian between the Danube and the Polar Sea was one of the greatest achievements of astronomical science. Another measurement, equally well known, was made subsequently be- tween Valencia in Ireland and Orsk in Siberia, comprising 52 degrees of latitude. All these works were executed by officers of the Imperial Etat Major and by the corps of Topographers edu- cated at St. Petersburg. Within the last 25 years the learned Directors of the Observatory and their coadjutors have published nearly 200 works on Astronomy and Geodesy. The State contributes a sum of about 5000?. for the support of the establishment. 5. For excursion to Gatchina Palace, see route from Frontier to St. Peters- burg. G. To ScJiliisselburg and Lake Ixidoga. — Smalt steamers leave several times a day from a stage op]iosite the Summer Garden, for Schliisselburg. at the mouth of the Neva, in Lake Ladoga, a dis- tance of 40 m., which is made in 4 to 5 hours. This trip, affords an oppor- tunity of viewing the extensive manu- factories, works, and building-slips, established on the banks of the river, most of which are under the manage- ment of English mechanics. At a place called Alexandrofuki is a large steam factory. The works are sur- rounded by a very large village, com- posed of the dwellings of the artizans and their masters. About 1 m. further on are the Imperial Porcelain Worl:s where the ceramic art has been fos- tered since the days of Catherine II. A great perfection has been attained I 3 156 Boute 1. — St. Fetershurg : ScJihisscIhurg. Sect. I. Knssia. Itoiife 2.— Boute 3. 157 licTC in the manufacture and ornamen- tation of china. Some splendid vases are exhibited, and many exquisitely modelled ligures of hisruH. An ex- cursion to these works alone miLcht be profitably undertaken. Tlie lonij: lino of cottages beyond arc occupied by a po})ulation engaged in the maiuifac- tun' of porcelain, which is all stamped in blue with the Russian initial of the reigning sovereign, snrmonute.l by an Imix^rial Crown. The Alezandrofxhi 3[anufactory,\\ng:hcT up the river, was once a thriving place, under the super- intendcnco of our countryman, Gene- ral Wilson, where numerous English cotton-spinners, weavers, and otlier me- chanicsobtained lucrative emi)loyment. TlieCiovernment have now abandoned the manufacture of cotton and linen fabrics, and the principal buildings are occupied by a Russian Iron-works Company. Higher up, after passing the large German colony of i^ardfof. the banks of the river become prettily wooded. Many country seats, once of great splendour, occur at intervals. The picturesque ruins of an old castle, called Fella, will be seen at the rapids of the Neva, 17 m. from St. Petersburg. SrhliisseUmrg is a fortress on an island at the source of the Neva. It belonged anciently to Novgorod the (ireat. In 1324 George, Prince of Moscow and Novgorod, raised a fort on it during an expedition against Wyborg, and a trade with Revel soon sprang up. The Lithuanians then took it, but were driven out by Magnus King of Sweden, a.d. 1347. Tlu; Novgorodians retook it in 1352, and raised a stone wall round the island. From that date to its final occupation by Peter the Great in 1702, Schliis- selburg, or, as it was called by the Swedes, Ntiteborg, remained a fruitful subject of contention between the two countries. The fortress has often served as a state prison. John VI. met with his death in it. The town of Schliisselburg, on the left bank of the Neva, has 4000 Inhab., engaged in navigating tlie Ladoga Lake and the famous canal which forms part of the iluviatile system connecting the Baltic with the Caspian. Tourista should inspect the locks, and after strolling a little in the country return to St. Petersburg by the boat that brought them, nnil which will tako them down the rajjid current of tlie Neva in less than 2 hours. (For description of country beyond Lake Ladoga, vide Rte. 3). 7. The Monaster]! of Walaam, on Lake Ladoga, should also be visited if tlie traveller have sufficient time, par- ticularly between the 27th and oOth JnneO.S., when an annual fair is hcM there. Steamers ply regularly. This mona.stery is reputed to have been founded between a.d. 073 and 9S0, before the introduction of Chris- tianity into Russia, l>ut it is disputed whether the 2 Greek monks who lio buried at Walaam, Sergius and Ger- manicus, flourished in the 10th or in the 14th centy. In the 12th centy., and in 1577 and IGIO, the jdacc' suf- fered much from the inroads of the Swedes, who crossed over from Serdo- bol, on the mainland of Finland, 40 v. distant, where an excellent dark gra- nit(! is now quarried. The monastery was destroyed by fire in 1754, and re- stored to its present condition in 1785. There are 5 chs. within it, and in one of these (the Cath.) lie the remains of the two (lireek monks in hantlsomo shrines of silver. The situation of the monastery is very picturesque, and the island on which it stands is divided by a pretty rivulet. The traveller will visit with interest the many cells and subter- anean caverns in which the more pious monks pass their lives in great austerity. In 1819 the Emperor Alexander passed two days in prayer and fasting at this monastery. Tolerable accommodation will be found, although, by the exercise of a small amount of in'teiest, the traveller will probably be able to induce tlui captain of the steamer to allow him to jjass a night on board, which will be found preferable. ROUTE 2. LONDON TO ST. PETERSBURG, BY SEA, VIA CRONSTADT. This route is cheaper than the over- land j< (urney. Steamers ply constantly to Cr'onstadt and St. Petersburg from London, Hull, and LeitU. The London steamers charge about G/., exclusive of provisions (about 08. per day), and make the voyage gene- rally in or 7 days. The most popular Hull boat is the Emperor paddle-steamer. Fares : 1st cabin, 5/. 56'.; second cabin, 3/. 3^. Pro- visions G«. a day. Voyages performed in 5 or 6 days. Steamers leave Leitli fortnightly for St. Petersburg. Fare Gl. Provisions, G«. a day. Voyage 5 to 6 days. All these steamers stop at Copen- hagen. Some of them proceed direct to St. Petersburg ; others stop at Cron- stadt, and forward their passengers by river l)oat or by rail via Oranienbaum. Travellers wishing to avoid the land journey from Berlin may embark at Lubeck or Stettin for St. Petersburg, which may also be reached by way of Riga, Stockholm, and Finland, for which see Rte. 4, and " Finland." The best months for the Baltic are June, July, and August. (For description of Cronstadt vide Etc. 1.) ROUTE 3. • ' LONDON TO ST. PETERSBURG, VIA ARCH- ANGEL. Steamers loading for Archangel, and having accommodation for passengers, may be found in London and in the North between the months of May and Augu.st. An earlier or later voyage should alike be avoided. The usual fare is G^ first class, and a charge of Qs. to Is. per diem for provisions during a voyage that lasts 7 or 8 days under favourable circumstances. This route should not be under- taken except by those who are pre- })ared to brave the difficulty and dis- comfort of posting 750 miles, the distance between Archangel and St. Petersburg. Its choice can only be justified by a desire to cross the White Sea, or to visit the interesting monas- tery of Solovetsk, situated on an is- land about 150 miles from Arch- angel, a town which, however, pos- sesses a certain amount of interest to the British traveller from its having been the "cradle" of the trade be- tween Great Britain and Russia. (For description of Early Intercourse with Russia at Archangel, vide Rte. 1 — '• Russia Company.") ARaiANGEL. Hotels. — There are no hotels properly so called at Archangel, but accommo- dation will be found in the ordinary hostelries of the country, described under " Posting," History of Archanqel.—Poix 20,000. Lat. G4° 33' N. 1104 versts from St. Petersburg, and 120G versts N. of IMoscow, on right bank of Northern Dvina. 158 Boiife 3. — Archangel. Sect. I. Russia. Boute 3. — SlovetsJ: Monastery, 159 The history of the town is traced buck to the 12th centy., when John, Archbishop of Novgorod the Great, founded a monastery on the coast of the AVhite Hea. In 1419 the Northnieii made a (U'scent on that part of the coabt, destroyed the churches wliich bc- lon<,'ed to the monasteries of St. Ni- chohis and St. Micliael, then ahvady existing, and put to death the monks. It was at the former monastery that Sir Richard Chancellor landrd in 1553, as related in the history of tlie early intercourse of Great Britain with Ilussia. A wall was subsequently built round the monastery of St. Michael, and in 1584 the town which had sprung up within the enclosure began to be officially named New Holmogory. In 1G37 the town and the monastery were destroyed by lire, when the monks removed their shrines to a place then called Niachery, where tiiey still remain. A church, dedi- cated to the Archangel ^lichael, marks the spot where the old monastery st(WKl. Fires devastated the town in 1637, 1007, and 1078. In the latter year two foreign " builders of towns," Peter Marselin and William Scharf, built a new fortress or wall of stcMie, which was divided into tliree parts. The upper part being called the ♦' lUissian," and the lower the "Ger- man" (or foreign) enclosiure. Peter the Great visited Archangel in 1093, and foinided a naval wharf on the island of Solombt)la, connected with Archangel by a floating bridge, and which he peopled with seamen and artizans, while on a neighbouring island, called after Moses, lie built a summer residence, which can still be seen. In 1701 Peter founded the for- tress of Novodvinsk, 18 v. from Arch- angel, on the Berezof branch of tlie Dvina. The town was again burnt down seven times between the years 1724 and 1793. lluins of the old st(jne wall are alone to be found, but the *' Russian court," or enclosure, is partly extant. The custom-house and harbour-master's othces are contained within it. Two walls, very much crumbled, mark the limits of the old enclosure for foreigners. Archangel wns made the seat of provincial go- vernment in 1702, the voevodes or governors having previously resided at Holmogory, now a district town, 71 V. from Archangel, and celebrate*l for its tine cattle. On the principal sipiare arc the cathedral, the churches of the Arch- angel and of the Resurrection, the courts of law, &c. ; and a monuiuent to I.omonosof, the poet tisherman f)f Archangel, erected in 1838. On this square formerly st(X)d the houses of the early English merchants. The Archiepiscopal Palace, built in 1784, is one of the oldest houses in Arch- angel. Travellers may visit the old monastery, from which the town takes its name, and which was removed to its i)resent site, 2^ v. from Archangel, in 1037. It contains 2 stone chs., of which one was built in 1085 and the other in 1705. The port is visited annually by al)out 800 vessels, of wliieh nearly 200 are British. Oats and other grain, flax, linseed, tar, timber, and l)lubber are largely exiMtrted (value about one million sterling); but tlu^ import trade is very limited. An English cli. and a chapel-of- ease, where divine service is })erformed during the months of summer, are still maintained for the benetit of the shipping and of the English com- munity, now reduced to very h-w members. A British consul likewise resides at Archangel. 1. Excursion to Solocelsh Monastery. A steamer proceeds twice a week to the monastery of Solovetsk, one of the holiest i)laces in Russia, founel- lion lasted nine years. After many ineffectual attacks by the Streltzi, the Voevode, Prince John Mestcher- ski, besieged the monastery for the space of two years, and it only fell by the treachery of one of the monks, who disclosed to the enemy a subterranean passage on the 22nd January, 1070. when many of the rebellious monks were put to the sword. A large number of them were either executed later or sent into exile. The remainder were kept in awe and submission during a whole year by 300 Streltzi, under the command of Prince Vladimir Vol- kousky. In the IGth and 17th cents, the Solovetsk monastery was the place of banishment or retirement of many celebrated men. Sylvester, the monk, who exercised such a beneficial hitlu- ence over the earlier days of John tlui Terrible, lies buried there, togetlier with Abraham Palytsiu, the patriotic monk who roused the people to action during the Polish occupation of Mos- cow. Nicon, subsequently the famous patriarch, took the cowl at Solovetsk. Simon Bekbulatovitch, the deposedTsar of Kasan, and subsequently the friend of his conqueror, John the Terrible, was sent here in disgrace by the false Demetrius, and forced to bec<:)me a monk, circa a.d. 1009. He was re- moved in 1811 to the monastery of St. Cyril-BeLktzersk, in tlie province of Novgorod. Peter the Great visited Solovetsk in 1094 and 1702, on the last occasion accompanied by his ill-fated son Alexis. A chapel now stands over the spot where he landed, while within the gates will be seen the models of the two vessels in which Peter crossed over. One of these was a yacht that had been built in Eng- land. The monks will point with pride to the unexploded shells which were fired from the Britisli White Sea squad- ron in 1855. They were summoned to surrender to the "squadron of horse," as the interpreter incorrectly put it to them; but they refused, and their only gun having burst and killed their only artilleryman, the holy fat}iers formed themselves in proces- sion, and walked round the walls, pre- ceded by the cross, while the shells were flying over their heads. An obelisk, next tiie 2 chapels, commemo- rates these proceedings. Churches.— This celebrated fortress- monastery now contains G chs. — 1. The Cathedral of the Transfiguration, built of wood in 1438 by Zosimus, but rebuilt of stone by St. Philip in 1558, and consecrated 1500. It has 5 altars, erected contemporaneously, dedicated as follows :--a, to the Archangel Mi- chael ; h, to Saints Zosimus and Sab- batheus, whose relics are there pre- served in shrines of silver-gilt, of which the covers, weighing IsO lbs. avoird. were made at Amsterdam in IGOO, at the expense of the Boyar Boris Morosotf ; c, to the 70 Apostles ; (I to the 12 Aix>stles ; e, to Theodore Stratilatus ; and /, to St. John of the Ladder. The body of St. Philip, IGO Boute 3. — Kem. Sect. I. Russia. Boute 3. — Onega — KargopoL 161 Metropolitan of Moscow, having been rcmovt'cl from the Otrotch monastery near Tver, where the exiled metro- politan liad been i)ut to death by order <»t' Jolm the Terrible, was originally bnried under the porch of the Cathe- dral of the Transfiguration, ])ut in 1052 they were removed to the Cathe- dral of the Assumption at Moscow. A part of tlie relics of the saint were, however, left in the monastery, where they lie in the slirinc which was made for them in 1(340. Tlio Ikonostas was put up in 1(jU7, l>y order of Peter tlie Gnat, as seen from an inscription alM)ve it. Near the cathedral are two cliapels, built in 1751^, and contahiing th(» tombs of Germanicus and of other reverend fatliers of local repute. 2. Tile Catiiedral of the Assumption, built of stone, together with a refec- tory by St. Pliilip, in ir)r)2, and con- secrated by him in 1557 ; in the u])per jtart of this churcli aro two altars wliich were restored after a lire tliat occurred in 1717. 3. The Church of Nicholas Tliormaturgus, built of stone, and conseerated about 1500. 4. The Churcli of tlie Annunciation, founded 1596, consecrated IGOl, and restored after a fire in 1745. 5. The Church of the Metrojiolitan riiilij), built 1087, renovated 1798. And 0. A church outside the wall of the monastery, in the cemetery, and dedi- cated to Onuphrius the Great ; consc- crat(^d 1G07 ; the belfry, constructed in 3777, is of a height of 20 fms. The Sacristy is one of the richest in Russia, being full of valuable gifts made ])y various sovereigns and nobles. Among other objects of great price are the vestments, covered with pearls of unusual size, given in 1550 by .7ohn IV. (Terrible), and a gold cross with relics, adorned with pearls and previous stones, the gift of the same Tsar in 1558; a silver shrine, weighing 25 lbs., made in 1700 ; an- other shrine, presented by the Ciraiul DukeConstantine in 1845, and a large copy of the Evangelists, weighing about 18 lbs., in a binding of silver- gilt. The, following other treasures will be viewed with int(^rest : — 1. The white linen chasuble of Zosimus, pre- sented to him by Archbisho}> Jonas of Novgorod, and in which St. Philip had said mass; this veneral)le garment is still worn on great occasions by tlio Archimandrite of the monastery ; 2. Tlie Psalter of Zosimus, mended by St. Philip, and an image of the Holy Virgin, brought to Solovetsk island by Sabbatheus; 3. The armour of tho followers of Abraham Palytsin, who, thougii a monk, was one of the most active agents in the war that termi- nated in the expulsion of the Poles from Moscow in 1013; 4. The swords of Prince INIichael Skopin-Shui.elong. Kem.— Lat. 04'^ 50' N. Pop. 1750. Distant 280 v. by sea and 521 v. by land from Archangel. This t4jwn is very prettily situated on the river Kem, which falls into the Whiter Sea on its W. shore. In the 15th centy. it belonged to Martha, the *• Possadnitsa " of Novgorod, who in 1450 made a gift of it to the Solo- vetsk monastery. The Finns took it in 1580, when the VcK^vode of Solo- vetsk and many Streltsi were killed. In 1590 the Swedes took possession of the entire district. A wol, in the vicmity of which town it takea its ris>c. The town is supposed to have been founded in the 15th centy., but its existence can only be authentically traced back to the; end of the 17th centy. It has a Pop. of 2000, and 2 chs. Here the traveller will hv al>le to get advice and assistance from tho agents of the English Timber Com- l)any, who will gladly put him on his way up the Onega river, the rapids of which, combined with very fine scenery, are well worthy of being visited. It is almost needless to say that game of every kind abounds through- out this part of the country, but tho proper time for killing it is of course the winter, when only the most enthu- siastic sj>ortsman would venture to carry his gun so far and to such a climate. Journey to St. TctershurQ. Having provided himself with a rrxlorojna, and attended strictly to all the injunctions of his countrymen at Archangel, who will most willingly give him every assistance in their l)ower, the traveller bent on posting to St. Petersburg must resign him- self to the jolting of a tarantass and the rapid driving of a yamstchik. A considerable part of the bad road (or 150 V.) may, however, be avoided by taking advantage of a steamer which runs regidarly uj) the Dvina to Siya, the 7th post station from Archangel. Thirteen stations beyond Siya, or 445 V. from Archangel, is the town of Kargopol, where the traveller will rest. As regards Hotels, tho general rule in Russia applies : — There are none at Kargopol; but the traveller will find a night's lodging at tho jwst station. Jlistory of the Toivn. Situated in Lat. or 30" N., in province of Olonetz, on left bank of Onega River. Pop. 2000. Kargopol is one of the most ancient colonies in the N. of Russia, but the first authentic mention of the town occurs in 1447, when Prince Dmitry .'<%rvp" rwv >V*I^ 'iV'VvVv \Kr;'.%]\i..> ■^Q^^r^^^ IGO Boute 3. — Rem. Sect. I. Metropolitan of Moscow, having been removeil from the Otrotcli monastery n(>ftr Tver, where the exiled metro- politan liad been put to death by order of Jolm the Terribh', was originally buried under the poreli of the Cathe- dral of tlie Transfiguration, ])ut in 1G02 tliey were removed to the Cathe- dral of the Assumption at Moscow. A part of the relics of tlio saint were, iKAvevin-, left in the monastery, where tliey lie in the shrine which was made for them in 1G4G. The Ikonostas was put up in 1G97, by order of Peter the Great, as seen from an inscripti(»n abov(^ it. Near tlie catlu drnl arr two chapels, built in ll^)'.\ and containing the tombs of Germanicus and of other reverend fatliers of local repute. 2. The Cathedral of tli(> Assumption, built of stone, together witli a refec- tory by St. Philip, in 1552, and con- secrated by him in 1557 ; in the upper l)art of this cliurcli aro two altars whicli were restored after a iire tliat occurred in 1717. 3. Tlie Cliurch of Nicholas Tliormaturgus, built of stone, and consecrated about 1590. 4. The Cliurcli of the Annunciation, founded 15UG, consecrated IGUl, and restored after a tire in 1745. 5. The Church of the Metrojiolitan Philip, built 1G87, renovated 1798. And G. A church outside the wall of the monastery, in the cemetery, and dedi- cated to Onuphrius the Great; conse- crated 1GG7 ; the belfry, constructed in 1777, is of a height of*20 fms. The Sacristy is one of the richest in Russia, being full of valuable gifts made by various sovereigns and nobles. Among other objects of great price are the vestments, covered with pearls of unusual size, given in 1550 by John IV. (Terrible), and a gold cross with relics, adorned with pearls and precious stones, the gift of the sumo Tsar in 1558 ; a silver slirine, weighing 25 lbs., made in 17GG ; an- other shrine, presented by the Grand Duke Constantino in 1845, and a large copy of the Evangelists, weighing a])out 18 lbs., in a binding of silver- gilt. The following other treasures will be viewed with interest : — 1. The white linen chasuble of Zosimus, pre- sented to him by Archl)ishop Jonas of Novgorod, and in which St. Philip had said mass; this venerable garment is still worn on great occasions l)y the Arcliimandrite of the monastery ; 2. The Psalter of Zosimus, mended by St. Philii), and an image of the Holy Virgin, brought to Solovetsk ishmdby Sabbatheus; 3. The armour of tho followers of Aliraham Palytsin, who, thougii a monk, was one of the most active agents in the war that termi- nated in the exi)ulsion of the Poles from Moscow in 1G13; 4. The swords of Prince INIichael Skopin-Shuiski, and of Prince Pojarski, ju'esented by him- self, and iireserved in a scal)l)ard of silver-gilt, and studded with precious stones — (for the history of those j)rinces, ri^le Historical Notice) ; 5. Many original charters of the Veclid (or Wittenegamote) of Novgor(jd and of 3Iartha tlie Possadnitsa, or elected governor of that rei)ublic, granting lands to the monasU-ry ; and G. A large collection of ancient Russian and other weapons, ami of banners bearing the emblem of the cross. Very tolerable accommodation will be found at the monastery, and the traveller who comes provided with an introduction to the archimandrite, easilv obtained throuirh the British residents at Archangel, will iind a stay of two days at Solovetsk INlonas- tery both pleasant and instructive. 2. Excursion to Kem. A tourist who will go as far as Solovetsk may as well pnx-eed by the steamer which leaves the monastery once a week for Kem, an interesting settlement of the Staroveri or 01(1- Peliever sect, who pursue the avoca- tion of fishermen, and to whom indeed the greater part of the fishing stjitiona and vessels in the Wiiitc Sea belong. Kem.— Lat. 64*^ 5G' N. Pop. 1750. Distant 280 v. by sea and 521 v. by lantl from Archangel. This town is very prettily situated Eussia. Boute 3. — Onega — KargopoL IGl on the river Kem, which falls into the White Sea on its W. shore. In the 15th centy. it belonged to Martha, the "Possadnitsa" of Novgorod, who in 1450 made a gift of it to the Solo- vetsk monastery. The Finns took it in 1580, when the Vm^vodc of Solo- vetsk and many Streltsi were killed. In 1590 the Swedes took possession of the entire district. A wcKKlen for- tress, erected in 1G57 by the monks on Lep island at the mouth of the Kem, was destroyed by inundations that occurred in 1749 and 17G3. The inhabitants arc almost exclu- sively occui)ied in smnmer in the lierring and cod fisheries, the women alone remaining in jjossession of the town. During the long absence of their husbands, however, they fre- quently make pilgrimages to the shrines of Solovetsk. As the iidiabi- tants of the Kem district principally consist of Careh and Lupars the traveller will have an excellent oppor- tunity of studyhig the characteristics of those northern races; and the excursion might be made still more interesting by returning via Onega, and ascending the Onega river to Kargopol, instead of posting to the latter town from Archangel. 3. Excursion from Kem to Onega. Should the steamer not touch at Onega on her return from Kem, the traveller can proceed by the high road treadth. Steamers run regularly twice a week Ix-tweeii St. Petersburg and l^etrozavodsk, touching at Vos- ncsenie. The entire voyage is made in 2 days. Pethozavodsk. — This town wa.s founded ])y Peter the Great, with tho view of develoi)ing the mineral re- sources of that part of his empire. The province of Olonetz is rich in copper, iron, and mica, which were worked in the earliest ages. It was anciently called 0>relia; and its in- habitants, the Corels, embraced Chris- tianity at the beginning of the 13th centy. Corelia was annexed to tho republic of Novgorod, which granted permission to Dutch and other mer- chants to cut wood and raise iron and mica in the vicinity of tho lake. Later Eussia. Boute L— Berlin to Beval. 163 the Swedes and Lithuanians made frequent incursions. The town of Petrozavodsk dates from 1701, when Peter the Great es- tablished there works for casting can- non, but which were afterwards des- troyed, and replaced by other works completed in 1774. Guns cx)ntmued, nevertheless, to be imported into llus- sia at great ex])ense from the Carron Works in Scotland, owing probably to the unsatisfactory state of the esta- blishment on Lake Onega. In order to improve the latter, Catherine II. invited Charles Gascoigne, the ma- nager of the Carron Works, to come over and rebuild the gun-foundry, which he did in 1704, when the town that had sprung up around it took the name of Petrozavodsk. Gascoigne was accompanied by two English arti- zans, George Clarke and James Wilson, who subsequently rose to great emin- ence in the service of Russia. Guns for the navy are to this day cast at I'etrozavodsk. Cmtinuation of Journey. Returning in the steamer to Vos- nesenie the traveller, who does not wish iA) go overland from Vytegra, will continue his voyage down the river Svir, which connects the lakes of Ladoga and Onega. The steamer will stop at Lodeinoe Pole (the Field of Lodi), more than half way down the river. This is a place of some interest as the spot where Peter the Great built his first galleys in 1702. He superintemled their building m person, and subseiiuently employed them in tiiking the fortress of Schliis- selburg from the Swedes. A monu- ment of cast iron marks the site of a house in which Peter resided. Emerging on Ladoga, the largest lake in Europe, having an area of 336 sq. geog. m.. and after a voyage ot some hours, the traveller will come m sight of the grim fortress of Schliis- Kdburg, where the river Neva takes its rise. For a description of this fortress, and of the course of the Neva, ride Rte. 1, Excursion 6. The overland route from Vytegra to St. Petersburg passes through Lodei- noe Pole (855.^ v. from Archangel) and the town of Novaya Ladoga (957^ v.), in which there is nothing of in- terest, except the canal and locks. There are 23 stages between Vytegra and St. Petersburg, the longest being 27i V. and the shortest 10^ v. The town of Schlusselberg, through which the traveller will pass during the last part pf his journey, is 60 v. from St. Petersburg by the post road. ROUTE 4. BERLIN TO KEVAL, BY RIGA, DORrAT, ETC. Sea i?o?road streets, stretching to the flat sandy shore of the harbour, are the dwellings and warehouses of the merchants, the rath- house, the guild-house, the bank, the barracks, and the theatre. The churches of Reval include 5 Russian, 1 Swedish, 1 Danish, and 4 German. The Lutheran are of great antiquity. The Olaihirche, originally built in 1329, was struck and partially consumed by lightning no less than 8 170 ^ouie 4. — Beval. Sect. I» Itussia. Route 4. — Tleval. 171 times ; and it was onlv in 1840 that it rose from the ashes in wliich it was laid in 1820, " Its arcliives and library, liowever, preserve an unbroken liistory ; and many of its arcliitectnral ornaments, coeval with its earliest erection, have been saved from tiie liames. Among the former is a piece of sculpture of great richness, consisting of two wide niches, the upper one empty, tlie lower occupied by a skeleton, with a toad resting on the body and a serpent crawling out of the ear— supposed to typify the destruction of an idol image recorded to have been iilled with these reptiles; and with a gorgeous breadtii of stone-work in 8 partitions around, exhibiting the triumph of Christianity in tiie Passion of onr Saviour, and other parts of the New Testament. This bears date 1513. The tower, re- built ijrecisely on the former scale and form, is about 250 ft. high, and serves as a landmark in navigation. This edifice, the cathedral church of the lower towni, is in pure early Gothic, with lancet windows of great beauty, and dedicated to St. Olai, a canonized King of Norway, who mounted the throne at the beginning of the 11th centy., and first intrcxluced Christian- ity among the Norwegians. " The next ch. of importance is that of St. Nicholas — a large, 3-aisled struc- ture with a massive square tower — built by Bishop Nicholas in 1317. This appears to have eluded the zeal of the iconoclasts of reforming times, and possesses many relics of Roman Catholic times. The most interesting are the pictures of the altar, especially 2 wing paintings containing small lialf-lengtJi figures of bishops, car- dinals, priests, and nuns — 3 on each side — in Holbein's time and manner, on a blue ground, and of great beauty. Also a picture, placed for better light- ing at the back of the altar— a Cruci- fixion, including tlie 2 thieves, with town and mountains in the back- ground, and a procession of equestrian figures entering the gate. This is of singular beauty of expression and form, though much injured by recent renovations — of the school of Itaphael, and especially in the manner of An- drea del Salerno. '• Immediately at the entrance of the cli., on the right hand, is a representa- tion of the oft-TQjyeatcd Dance of Death — coinciding not only in age and ar- rangement, but also word for word in the riat Deutsch verses beneath, witJi the same subject in St. IMary's church at Liibeck. " The chapels of some of the chief nol)ility, with massive iron gates and richly adorned with armorial bearings, arc attached to this ch., though all in a very neglectetl state. The llosen chapel is now occupied by the unburied body of a prince, who expiates in this form a life of extravagance. The Duke de Croy — a prince of the Roman Empire, Markgraf of ^Nlount Cornette, and of otiier fiefs, &c., and desceiidetl from the Kings of Hungary— after serving with distinction under the Emperor of Austria and King of Poland, passed over to the service of Peter the Great, obtained the com- mand of the Russian army, and was defeated by Charles XII. at the battle of Narva. Fearing the Tsar's resent- ment, he surrendered to the enemy, and was sent a prisoner at large to Reval, at that eproached by two stone .steps. The mosaic-work on the w^all beliind the altar is considered to be cotemjxirane- ous with the building of the cathedral, and conse(|uently Py/antine work. The Ikonostas was put uj) in 1341. Tlie most remarkable images in it are: — 1. The Saviour, a copy of an ancient image attributed to the Greek Emperor Emanuel, taken to the Cathe- dral of the Assumption at Moscow in 1570. 2. St. Sophia, a copy, of the same date as the church, of a Bvzan- tine image. 3. St. Peter and St. Paid, brouglit, according to local tradition, from Khersonesus, together with some celebrated crosses now in the Cathedral of the Assumption, by St. AVladimir. The remaining images, 15 in nundjcr, are of greater or less antiquity. On pillars above the choir are fresco re- presentations of canonized princes and ecclesiastics. The chief shrines ore:— 1. Of St. Anne, daughter of King Olaf of Sweden, and consort of Prince Yoro- slaf I. She was the first to set an ex- anqtle of taking the veil, according to the custom of widowed empresses in Byzantium. She died in 1050. 2. In a niche of the same wall lie the remains of St. "Vladimir, sou of Yaro- slaf and Anne, and founder of the cathedral, who died a.i>. 1052. These relies were placed there in 1G52. 3. St. Nikita, Archbishop of Novgorod, reposes in a silver shrine. He was canonized for his great piety. Hia ( prayers extinguished the flames which once tlireatened Novgorod with de- struction, and brought down rain on the parched earth. Obiit 1108. 4. At the S. wall of the high-altar stands an empty reddish slate tomb, and over it a bronze shrine, in which repose the remains of St. Mstislaf " the Brave," Prince of Novgorod, who obtained great renown in the war for the succes- sion, and was prevailed upon by the Novgorodians to become their prince. He freed I'skof from its enemies, and compelled the Chiids, or Finns, to pay tribute. In the midst of his greatness he was overtaken by disease, and, having caused himself to be carried into the Cuthednd of St. Sophia, took the Holy Communion before the assem- bled citizens, and, after commending his wife and his 3 sons to the care of his brothers, crossed his once mighty arms on his brta.st and expired, 14th .Tune, 1180. 5. In the N. chapel, in a rich silver shrine (1856), lies exposed the body of John Archbishop of Nov- gorml, who died 1186. There are 10 other shrines of saints who lived be- tween 1030 and 1653. Nineteen arch- bishops and ]Metroi»olitans, between 1223 and 1818, are also buried within the cathedral, together with many princes. Only 2 of the inscriptions on the tombs of the latter are now legible ; they record the deaths of Prince Mstis- laf Rostislavitch in 1178, and of Yasili Mstislavitch a.d. 1218. Among other interesting objects within the eh. may be mentioned : 1. The throne of the Tsar and Metro- politan, erected in 1560 ; 2. I^arge brass cliandeliers, suspended in 1600. Tlie 2 doors which open into the Chapel uf the Nativity are very remarkable. They are of oak, overlaid with metallic plates half an inch in thickness, and bearing various devices and scrolls. Tradition says they were brought from the ancient town of Siegtoun, in Sweden, pillaged in 1187 by pirates, among whom were some Novgorodians. The Korsun (or Khersonesus) door, at the W. entrance, is likewise of wood, ornamented with bronze, bearing 54 inscriptions in Slavonian and Latin. The former are supposed to be of the 14th centy., and the latter in the Gothic style of the 13th or 14th centy. It is in dispute whether this door came from Khersonesus or from INIagdeburg. Another account states that the door was carried in- to Poland by Boleslas II., when it was placed in a Roman Catholic church, and subsequently transported to Novgorod. The Safristy, which is in a room at the top of the cathedral, contains several ecclesiastical objects of intere^t, although the more ancient treasures have been removed, stolen, or burnt at various periods. There is a printed copy of the Gospels in a cover of the 16th centy. The mitres, croziers, and panagias are of the 16th and 17th cents. Among the antiquities, not ecclesiastical, are: 1. A cap of main- tenance, of wood, covered with silk, supposed to have belonged to the princes of Novgorod ; 2. Archbishop's seal ; 3. Silk standard, with a mono- gram of the Saviour's name — tradition says it was carried before the ancient Governors of Novgorod ; 4. Large silk standard of Novgorod, presented by the Tsars Peter and John in 1693; 5. A collection of small silver coins from John III. to Peter I. ; 6. Old dishes of German work. Library. — This was one of the richest in Russia, but in 1859 the MSS. were removed to St. Petersburg. A collection of 20 letters from Peter the Great to Catherine I., and his son Alexis, &c., is still preserved there. 2. llie Kremlin, or stone wall, in the centre of the city, was founded 1302, rebuilt 1490, and repaired in 1698 and 1818. A pavilion, in a garden wdiich occupies the bed of tlie old moat, is raised on the spot where IMartha, sur- named the " Posadnitsa," or governor (in the female gender), lived in the middle of the 15th centy. The cathe- dral, the archiepiscopal jjalace, and several churches, stand within the walls. It is impossible to describe in the limits of this Handbook any other of ihe numerous churches and monasteries with which old Novgorod is adorned. 176 Ronfc C\~St. Pefrrshurg io Moscow. Sect. I. Tlicy are mostly of parent antiquity, and will fully repay a minute inspection and inquiry on the spot. A work by Count M. Tolstoy, 1862, in the Kussian language, contains tlie most conqdote information. Travellers will see tlie great Monu- ment^ erected in 18c had here to take the traveller to the monastery for a charge of 3 to 4 rubles, there and back, returnmg next day. Travellers should avoid taking a com- mon cart, for the road is bad and dusty, and they should brhig with them a basket of provisions. Tolerable accommodation will be obtained at the hostelry attached to the monastery, the last house on the 178 Boute 6.— 5^ Pefershurg to Moscow. Sect. I. left, approaching the gate of the mo- nastery. Au important page of the ecclesias- tical history of Russia may be read here. We come upon the life and doings of the Patriarch Nicon, who laid the foundation of the monastery in 1657. On his frequent journeys to the Iberian Convent at Valdai ho always stopped at the village of Voskreseiisk. and in 1G55 built a ch. on some land which he purchased there. The Tsar Alexis, present at its consecration, named the ch., at the desire of Nioon, the New Jerusalem. The Patriarch then sent for a model of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, which he set about to imitate. Tlie neigh- bouring accidents of country he called after various sacred sites in Palestine. The river Istra was couverted into the Jordan; a brook, purposely formed, became the Kedrou ; a neighl)0uring village was dignified into Xazanth ; and on the mound on which the Tsar stood when he bestowed the name of New Jerusalem he built a chapel and called it Eleon. But the favour of the sovereign was suddenly withdrawn from the pre- late. Nicon arrogated to liimself a power in civil as well as in ecclesi- astical matters, of wliich the Tsar and his courtiers became jealous. lie also brought down upon himself the hatred of the clergy, whom he per- secuted most rigorously fi)r intemper- ance and other irregularities. His in- novations in the ritual of the Church, induced by a warm zeal for the ancient Churcli and Empire of Constantinople, and elfected l)y a com.parison of more correct service-books from Mount Atlios, encountered the strongest op- position, and swelled the number of his enemies. Tlie people, driven into Dissent, founded numerous sects, whicli are to this day strongly inimical to the Orthodox Churcli and jiartly even to the State. He went so far in uphold- ing the Byzantine purity of the liussian Church as to seize; in the hous..s of tiio nobles, and destroy, all pictures tliat were not painted in the conventional forms of Creek art. In iniiilic docu- ments he assumetl a titl'.- which was equal to that of the sovereign. But at last his enemies triumphed. The Tsar, irritated at the insolence of the I'atriarch, and iinnoyed at the unsuc- cessful termination of a war with the I'oles and Swedes which he had un- dertaken by his advice, withdrew his friendship, and soon after, on a great festival of the Church, absented himself from the cathedral, in which Nicon was wont to sermonize his royal master. The Patriarch, enraged, threw otf his ejjiscopal robes, resigned his crozier, and. attiring himself in the habit of a monk, withdrew, amid tlie expostula- tion of the j)oi)ulace and the Tsar's officers, to his retreat at Voskrcsensk. But his strength and greatness of mind were not equal to the occasion. Ho had ex]>ected to see Alexis with tears in his eyes, asking forgiveness, and entreating liim not to divest himself of his high office. The Tsar never came, and Nicon saw, when too late, that ho had taken a tatiil stej). A INIetropolitan, having been temporarily invested with the Patriarchate, considered himself justified in rei)lacing Nicon at a cere- mony in which the Primate rode on an ass to typify Christs entry into Jeru- salem ; the recluse of Voskresensk protested sigainst wh-at he called a usurpation, under the }»lea that he was still a Patriarch, with the gift of the Holy Ghost to work cures, although by his ovvii free will no longer Patriarch of ]Moseow. In IGGt, t> years after his resignation, Nicon appeared sud- denly at matins in the Cathedral of the Assumption, arrayed once more in his pontifical robes. He wrote to the Tsar that, after long fasting and much ])rayer, he had been told by the canonize, the ch. was entirely restored by the celebrated architect Ilastrelli in 1750. For further particu- lars respecting this interesting monas- tery the traveller should consult Dean Stanley's 'Lectures on the Eastern Church.' A battle was fought in the vicinity of the monastery, June 18, 1G98, be- tween (ieneral Patrick Gordon and the rebi'llitnis Streltzi. who were there- ni>on suppres.sed, and decapitated by I'etcr in great numbers. The next siat. but one is Moscow fPop- 380,000). IJotds. — As at St. Petersburg, so at IMoscow, a selection has to be made Ix'tween the boarding-house system and the better class of Russian hotels. If the traveller speaks no French or Ger- man, and feels helpless witliout the assistance of a landlord or landlady who can speak his own language and that of the natives of the countiy, he should at once drive to "Lubiauka" street. Here again a choice has to be made In the matter of a boarding-house. Unfortunately, perhaps, there are two in the same street, almost facing each other, kept on similar principals, ofter- ing equal advantages. Even the names of the ])roprietors are very nearly alike, with the ditierence only of a vowel. We therefore only mention tlicm in alphabeticid order, in indicating first INIadame Billet's house, and second Mr. Billot's. Madame Billet has the advantage of her sex and parentage, for she is English by birth; Mr. Billot is the type of an obliging, serviceable landlord, well conversant with the English language, and an excellent guide to Moscow. The charges at both establishments are similar, viz. •i rubles a day for bed and board, and a small charge extra for servants, which has, as usual, to be supple- mented. Both houses are princii)ally frequented by men of counnerce, espe- cially in winter. The dinners are good, substantial, and a la Russe, with a few homely English variations. The beds are soft and clean, and the rooms neat. The use of l*ersian powder forms an exception, not a rule. Tubs kept on the premises. The independent traveller, who pre- fers a French c?t«V//e city," just a.s Calcutta has iib "Cbina bazaar." 184 Boute(). — Moscow : Kremlin. Sect. I. sights of Moscow to some kind of order. Assuming that the traveller's first ob- ject will be to see the Kremlin, the following particulars may be read on the spot : — Kremlin.— Unman archajologists arc unable totrace the name of the Kremlin to any certain source. It is by most supposed to be derived from thellussian word Kremeii or sihx, but it occurs for the lirst time in its present form in the year 144tj. Originally part of the site now occupie1 by an Italian architect, but has, like the other build- ings of the Krendin, ]x?en restored after .successive disasters. Tlu' troops of Tokhtamysh, of Sigismund III., and of Napoleon, passed through this gate within 4 centuries. In 1408 it wit- nessed the siege of Moscow by Edigei, in 1551 the invasion by the Crim Tartars, and in 1611-12 the battles between tlie Poles and the Russians for the possession of Holy IMoscow. It was also partly destroyed by orders of Napoleon, when it escaped with only a rent which split the tower in the middle as far as the frame of the pic- ture ; but not even the glass of the l)icture, nor even that of the lamp su.'^pendcd ])eforc it, is said to have been injured. An inscription to that ett'ect was j^laccd over the gate by order of Alexander I. A gate near the western extremity of the Kremlin wall is called the Troitski or Trinity (iate. Its tower was likewise built by Christoi)her Gal- loway in the early ])art of the 17th ceuty. : restored in 1759, and after tla; coniiagrution in 1812. Tlie French both entered and left the Kremlin by this gate. Before that invasion the buildings in the vicinity afforded u refuge for vagrants, thieves, and mur- derers, who kept the inhabitanta in great terror. The last gate on the E. is called the Borovitski. Its tower is curious. 1 laving j)cnetrated the Kremlin by one of these gates, the visitor will i)roceed to inspect the many interesting bmld- I ings and objects which it cont;iins. Russia. Boute 6. — Moscoio : Toicer of Iran VeUld. 185 These are as follows, in the order in which they should be seen : — 1. Tlie Tower of Ivan Veliki {John the Great). — This remarkable structure should be ascended first. Tradition points to a very remote origin, but historical facts assert that the tower was built in the year 1600 by the Tsar Boris Godunoft'. It consists of 5 stories, 4 being octangular and the last cylin- drical, the whole rising to a height of about 325 ft. including the cro.ss. The basement is occupied by a chapel dedi- cated to St. John of the Ladder, of which, in foct, the tower is the Cam- panile. In the next 3 stories are sus- l)ended 34 Ixdls of various sizes and tones. Tiie largest, named the "As- sumption," hangs in the first tier above the chapel, and weighs 64 tons, being, therefore, five times Jis heavy as the famous ])ell of Erfurt, and four times that of Ronen. It was recast after the partial destruction of the tower in 1812. The chapel below this part of the tower is dedicated to a St. Nicholas, who is the patron of all hidies about to marry. The most ancient of the other bells bears the date of 1550. The Veche Ix^U of the Great N(n'gorod was once susi>ended in this tower ; but all trace of it is lost. In the highest tier are 2 small silver bells of ex(]uisite tone. The ringing of all tiieseb«'lls on Easter eve produces a most wonderful eft'ect. Here the traveller pauses to behold the jianorama of Moscow. Tlie view from the summit is certainly one of the most striking and unique in Europe. The custode, who will ascend witli tlie traveller, will expect a fee. It is advisable to retain tlie services of one of the men at the fcM^t of the tower for the rest of the sights within the Krem- lin, making him a ])resent of 50 copecks at parting. 2. Great Bell « Tsar Kolokol," Tsar of Bells.— This lies at the foot of the tower. The art of casting bells was known in Russia in the 14tii centy., but was only brought to perfection in the 16th, when the first large 1x41 was cast at Moscow (1553), which weighed 36,000 11 )s., and was suspei.dcd in a wooden tower. A Polish traveller, in 1611, relates having seen a huge bell, of which the clapper was moved by 24 men. Olearius, Secretary of a Dutch Embassy to I\Ioscow, asserts that tlio Great Bell was cast in the reign of Boris Godunoft'. During a fire in the reign of Alexis, this bell fell t^> the ground and was broken. In 1654 it was recast, and weighed 288,000 lbs. Its circumfert?ice was 54 ft., and its tliickness 2 ft. In 1674 it was sus- pended from a wooden beam at the foot of the tower, from whence it fell on the lOtli June, 1706, during a fire. Its fragments hiy on the ground until the reign of the Empress Anne, by whose orders it was recast in 1733. By the falling of some heavy rafters during another fire in 1737, the side of the bell was knocked out, and it remained buried in the ground until the year 1836, when it was placed on its present l)e(le.stal by order of the Emperor Nicholas. Its weight at present is 444,000 lbs., its height 19 ft. 3 in., and its circumference 60 ft. 9 in. Its thick- ness is 2 ft., and the weight of tho broken piece is 700 puuds, or about 11 tons. The figures in relief are those of the Tsar Alexis and tho Empress Anne, and on the scroll below is a re- jtresentotion of the Saviour, the Holy Virgin, and the Evangelists, sur- rounded by cherubims. The inscrip- tion gives the above facts. 3. The PaZace.— The ancient habita- tions of the rulers of Moscow were of wood, with the exception of the Grano- vitaya Palata, built by an Italian arclii- tect'in 1484, and still extant. Fre- quent contiagrations, Tartar inroads, and a Polish occupation destroyed the old Courts of the Grand Dukes and Tsars. On the tmn«fer of the capital to St. Petersburg, the Kremlin was definitively deserted as a royal resi- dence. The lire of 1737, which con- sumetl evervthiiig that was ancient in IMoscow, obliterated all traces ot the buildings constructed by the first sovereigns of the Romanoff djniasty, leaving only the stone basements on which the structures now seen have since been rearc d. The Empress Anne 18G Route 6. — Moscow : TJie Palace. Sect. I. built a palace on their site in the style of tlie period, but this again made way for the gif^antic: palace dcsigued by tlic Empress Catherine II., now exhibited in the Treasury as a moikd, and the construction of whicli was soon aban- doned. The French burned the palace ftieing the river which the Empress Catherine had rebuilt, and which the Emperor N'aix)leon occupied ; and be- tween 1838 and 1849 it was entirely removed and replaced l)y the present palace, which is therefore only a monu- ment of the reign of Nicholas I. The Bohhol Dcorets, or Tiarge Pa- lace, is very lofty compared with its frontage, and its .style i.s an odd mix- ture of diti'erent periods and forms of architecture. The incongruity of the exterior is, however, more than atoned fur by the great beauty and grandeur of the a])artments within. The exhibition of this Handbook will be a sufficient introduction to tlie porter in .scarlet, who will detach one of the Imperial servants on the duty of showing the palace. Tlie vestibule is sup))orted by handsome monoliths of grey marble. Beginning on the 1, with tiie First-lloor, which consi.sts of tlie dwelling-rooms of tlie Emperor ami Em])ress, the apartments occur in the following order : — 1. Dining-room. 2. Empress's Drawing-room ; wliite .silk, ami gold mouldings. ?>. Attendants' room. 4. Empress" Cabinet ; dark- red silk, and bulil doors, o. lioom for Lady-in-Waiting. G. Enijtre.ss' Dressiing and Bath-room ; malaehite manteli)iece. 7. Bedroom. 8. 10m- peror's Dressing and Bath-room. 1>. Emperor's Cabinet ; the pictures re- l)resent tlie French entering and leav- ing Moscow, and tlie battles of Boro- dino and Smolensk; bronze eque.striun statuette of Napoleon. 10. Attend- ants' room. 11. Efgimental Standard- room. 12. Attendant.s' room. Visitors will now be led back to the Vestibule, and shovvu, in a small room on the 1., a machine for lifting tiie Em- press to her apartments upstairs. As- cending a handsome granite.stairca.se, with walls of seai^liola, he will be taken to see the State Aiiartments. The large picture in the gallery round the top of the staircase, painted in 1850 by Yvon, a French artist, represents the battle of Kulikova, or the victory over the Tartars gained by Dmitry of the Don. The huge crystal vases at the door are from the Imperial Gla-ss "Works at St. l'eter.sburg, as also are tlie other vases and candelabra, which will be shown inside. Passing through an ante-chamber, the traveller will find him.self in a magnificent Hall dedi- cateil to the Military (h-der of St. George, founded by Catherine II., in 1709. It measures 200 ft. l)y 68 ft. ; height ~)8 ft. The names of the in- dividuals and regiments decorated with the Order since its fouiulation are inscribed on the walls in letters of gold. The capitals of the columns (which are of zinci are surmounted by Victories bearing shields, on which are inscribed the dates of the several conquests of Bussia, beginning with that of Perm, in 1472, and ending with the annexatiou of Armenia, in 1828. On the shields are likewi.se the arms of the conn a column in tlie centre of the room, and round whicli the Imperial plate is dis- played. Here the Emperor sits en- throned after the ceremony in the Cathedral, adorned for the first time with all the Imj)erial insignia, and dines amidst his nobles; crowned heads being alone .seated at the same table witli him. Oi)posite the throne, near the ceiling, is a window, which was in olden days occupied by the mem- bers of the Imperial family during the coronation banquet, their presence be- low being excluded by etiquette. The visitor now comes to a very interesting part of the i)alace — the Terem, anciently devoted to the Tsar- evna and her children. The building consists of 4 stories, which gradually diminish till the upper floor is so small as only to contain 1 room. The 2 lower stories, used as magazines, were built in the early part of the iGth centy., but the 2 upper were added in 1G3G by Michael Fedorowitch. The entire building was restored 183G- 1841). Ascending the curious carved stone staircase, the first room reached is the Dining-room ; the presses con- tain the old seals of the empire. 2. lleception-room ; bronze casket, con- taining old charters of the reign of Alexis. 3. Throne-room of Alexis ; seals of sovereigns ; gold seal of John the Terrible, in a small open box in press, 1. of door ; bronze casket con- taining act of election of INIichacI Homanoff to throne of Muscovy. 4. Bedroom. 5. Oratory ; copy of the Evangelists on parchment of 14th centy. Th(! room above is called the Council Chamber of the Boyars. Visitors should go out onl the gallery that runs round the outside of this building, and admire the view. A door under the staircase of the Terem leads to a suite of rooms where old charters are kept. These can only be seen by special permission. Alexis, and sul> sequently his sons Theodore and John, were brought up in the Terem. Peter the Great sometimes occupied it before his first journey to foreign countries, and its last occupant ',/as tlie unfortu- nate Alexis, son of Peter. The guide should receive a fee, as well as the porter, for taking care of coats, sticks, and uml)rellas. 4. Tlie Treasiirij {Orujeinaya Td- lata),* — This building, erected in 1851, forms tho right wing of the Palace, and contains a collection very similar in subjects to that of the Tower of lion- don. The Treasury of Moscow was anciently, and still remains, the deposi- tory of venerated historical objects, and of treasures hereditary in the reigning house. The geographical position of Russia, and her ancient conmiereial intercourse with India, Persia, Ar- menia, and Greece, gave her princes and boyars the widest opiwrtunities for the acquisition of wealth. The arts, first of the East, and later of the West, found munificent patrons at the court of Moscow. The iuterchange of pre- sents on the occasion of alliances, em- bassies, or the conclusion of peace, continued to the time when Russia was no longer considered an Asiatic pow»r, increased tho store of riches in the shajx! of plate, precious stones, and costly manufactures of difterent kinds, which in those primitive days were tlio principal representatives of wealth. The churches, in the same manner, were more frequently endowed with * Tho Tre.isury is only open on Mondays and 'rimrsilays, lK.'t\verceive from the ciphers on them. The Emperor and Empress walk at their coronation under the haldachino in the centre of the room. The traveller will pause at the stand of colours at the furthest end of this hall, to the rt. of the door, while he reads the following translation of the printed inscription in Russian characters, composed by the Emperor Nicholas himself: — ''Alexander L, the benefactor of Poland, gave these colours to his Polish army. Mag- nanimity was responded to by treason ; the brave, fiiithful Russian army took these colours back, after storming Warsaw and sparing its inhabitants, 25 and 2G August, 1831." The con- stitution granted by Alexander I. to his Polisli subjects lies in the small black box immediately under the in- scription. The glass case on the 1. contains the arms taken from the Polish general Rzewuski. A blade bears the name of Stanislaus Augustus, and the date of 17G4. The room on the rt. contains many of the most interesting relics of Rus- 190 Boute G. — Moscoio : Hie Palace. Sect. I. Eussia. Boute 6. — Moscow : TJie Palace. 191 sian soverei.G^nty. To the 1. ou onterinp: stands the throne of Pohmd, removed in 1833 from the throne-room of the lioyal Palace at Warsaw. It was used at the coronation of Nicholas I. as King of Poland. Tlie cipher M. is the initial of his name in I'olish (3[ikolay). The insignia of Alexis, and of his sons John and Peter, are on stands close by. The ivory tlirone was brought from Constantinople by Sophia Palajologus in 1472, on her marriage with John III. The carving repre- sents the labours of Orplieus and the legend of Thrace, but several of tlie original panels were replaced in 1 012 by others with inappropriate subjects. It was, moreover, restored in 185(» for tile coronation of Alexander II. The tJiroiie alongside came from I'ersia in 1(JG0, and was used by tlic Tsar Alexis. It is studded with 870 diamonds and 1223 rubies, besides turtpioisis and jiearls. The orb opposite tlu'se thrones is of great historical importance. It was sent to Vladimir IMonomachus, Prince of Kief, by the (ireek Emperors Basilius and Oonstontine, together with a crown, a collar of enamel and precious stones, and a chair, with a piece of the true cross. It is most sj)lendidly studded with .58 diamonds, 81) rnbies, 23 sap])hires, .')0 emeralds, and 37 pearls. The coloured enamels are in the most beautiful style of Greek art, and represent the principal episodes in the life of David. The four sym- bolical figures of Byzantium, the eagle, the lion, the grifhn, and the unicorn, divide the several images or enamelled l)lates. The wardrol)e next the throne brings very ditlerent recollections. The first object in it is a masquerade dress of Catherine I. Alongside this are her coronation robes, the military dress of Peter II., and other specimens of wearing apparel. The boots of Peter I. and Paul I stand on either side of the warcb'obe. The next throne is that of Michael. Opi)osite to it stands the crown of the kingdom of Ka- zan. It belonged to Simeon, crowned Tsar of Kazan, and converted to Chris- tianity by Jt)hn tlio Terrible in 15.")3. It is surmounted by a topaz, and adorned with rubies, turquoises, and l)earls. The crown on tlu; next stand was made for Michael by Pussian artizans. It is richly ornamented witli , enamel-work, and surmounted by a : large emerald. Thire are 190 other l)recious stones round it. The second i glass case contains the coronation robes of the Kmperor Alexander II. and his Em] tress. The throne of Boris God- unof comes next. It was the gift of I Abbas Shah of Persia, in 1004, and is I studded with veiy large turcpioises ! and innumerable rubies and ])earls. j The crown of John, brotiier of Peter I., j is on the next stand. It is in the I shape of a mitre, or pyramidal cap I of maintenance, surmounted by a dia- mond cross, rising from a ruby. The diamonds with which this magnificent crown is ornamented are 900 in number. The orb alongside was made at G)n- stantinoj^le for Alexis in 1002. The green enamel is profusely studded with diamonds and i-ight large sapphires. In the wardrobe opposite hang the coro- nation robes of the Empresses Anne and Catherine II. The double throne of Vermeil was made for tlie coronation of John and Peter. The usual Byzan- tine emblems will be observed. The crowns of those sovereigns lie ojiposite. The costliest crown is that of the Em- jtress Anne, orig'nally made ibr Cathe- rine I. bv order of Peter tlie Great, the diamonds in it, alone, being 2530 in number; but the jewel of most value in it is the ruby, purchased at Pekin in 1070 by the Ambassador of Alexis. The throne of Paul completes the col- lection. In the last wardrobe are the coronation robes of Paul, Alexander I., and Nicholas I., with those of tlieir consorts. In the glass case in the centre of the room the visitor will find the Order of the Garter, and the patent for it, sent to John the Terrible by Queen Elizabeth. A casket in this room contains the '' Ulojenie'," or Code of the Tsar Alexis (1019,, written on sheets of parchment measuring together 308 yards. It is im[X)ssible, however, to par- ticularise all the other treasures of this most interesting room, and W(^ must close our description of it by directing \ f the attention of the visitor to the Staff or walking-stick of John the Terrible, with the sharp point of which tlie Tsar was in the habit of transfixing the feet of those with whom he was displeased. It was with the blow of a similar stick that he killed his eldest son. The staff of fish-bone Avas the gift of Pope Gregorv XIII. The fourth, or last room upstairs, is full of stands groaning with the richest and most curious articles of plate. Some of the objects here exhibited arc of great antiquity, — a cup of silver bear- ing an inscription of the r2tli centy. Every domestic vessel has a specimen in this collection, and their forms will be studied with interest by the lovers of art. The work of nearly every country in Europe meets the eye. Our own silversniitlis have contributed many articles presented to the Tsar bv the ambassadors of James I., Charles I., and Charles II. Two jugs of chased silver, two vases of vermeil, the covers surmounted by a cavalier armed with a lance, a ewer weighing 24 lbs., two large jugs, two candle- sticks, and four dishes, all of silver, were brought by the Earl of Carlisle, ambassador of Charles II. For a de- tailed description of the plate vide * Le Tre'sor do Moseou, ISO J,' to be pur- chased at the door. Keturning down stairs, the visitor will be shown some rooms on the rt., ccmtaining amongst other things the following remarkable objects : — ■ In the first room is an immense model of a palace which Catherine II. proposed to construct within the Kremlin, and of which the first stone was actually laid in 1773. A theati'C, in the shape of tlie Coliseum at Kome, was to have been erected near the holy gate of the Saviour. The tra- veller may congratulate tlie IMuscovite on the plan of such a building having been abandoned. The small field- pieces were cast at Tabreez during its occupation by llussian troops in 1827. In the second room will be found portraits of kings of Poland, and of Polish men of eminence, together with 22 busts of Zamoiskis, Sapichas, Wielopolskis, and other illustrious Poles. The old carriages of the court of ]Moscow fill the next and last room. The large vehicle on the right was presented, together with eight horses, by Queen Elizabeth to the Tsar Boris Godunoff. The panels are painted with allegorical allusions to a crusade which the Tsar had proposed to make against the Turks, and in which our Queen declhied to join. The minia- ture carriage witli i^anes of mica be- longed to I'eter I. wiien a child. An- other large carriage on the right belonged to tiie Eiiq^ress Elizabeth. The panels an^ painted in the style of AVatteau. The carriage on runners, witli a table and benches covered with green cloth, was used by the Empress Elizabeth on her journeys between St. Petersburg and JMoscow. The first large carriage on the left, lined with crimson velvet, was made for the Pa- triarch Philaret. Tw^o camp bed- steads which belonged to Napoleon, and were taken at the Berezina, stand at the upper end of the room. The cases along the walls and pillars arc full of saddles and horse-trappings, dating from the 17th cent. ^r>'^i a. The Maloi or Nicolaefsid Dvorets, or Little Palace, facing the Great Bell, is scarcsly worthy of a visit. Originally built oy Catherine, it was the residence of the Metrojwlitan Platon, who presented it, in 1817, to the Emperor Nicholas. The Emperor Alexander II. was born here. The furniture and arrangements are of the simplest kind. In the Dining- room is a picture by Canaletto, " Elec- ti two side altars are separate pieces of the one chief altar; but placed here to allow of access to tliom without passing through the Sanctuary. 5. Stairs leading to " the Chapel of the lUcssed Virgin " hi the cupola, where the election of the Patriarchs took place. J. Stairs leading to the Sacristy, containing the relics and curiosities of the Church. Ti )nib of S. Theognostus, 7 ■«. . ,,. Tomb of S. Peter: ' } Metroix>lltans. a. a. a. a. Pictures of the Seven Councils. b. h. h. Pictures of the Last Judgment. c. c. c. c. c. c. Pictures of the Life and Death of the Virgin. d. d. d. d. Pictures of the Patriarchs and Fathers of the Church. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. IT. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. Shrine, containing sacred relics. Tomb of S. Philip, ]Metroix>litan. Sacred Picture of our Lady of Vladimir. Tomb of S. Jonah, ]\letropolitan. TalK>rnacle over " the Holy Tunic," pre- sented to the Church by I'hilarct, Patriarch. Tombs of SS. Pbotlus and Cyprian. The ancient throne of the Tsar (called " of Vladimir IMonomachus"). Throne of the Patriarch. Tlirone of the Empress. Place of the platform on which the Em- peror is crownetl. Tomb of Philaret, Patriarch. Tomb of Hermogenes, I'atriarch, Royal doors. Platform in front of the choir. The Pictures on the Altar Screen (A) are thus airanged. 1. The highest comi)artm<'nt, the Patriarchs ranged on each side of the Eternal Father. 2. The Prophets leaning towards the Virgin and Son. 3. Minute representations of the life of the Saviour. 4. Angels ajid Apostles on each side of the Saviour. 5. The .Sacred Pictures or Icons: (a) " The Blessed Virgin," brought by Vladimir from Khersonesus. (h) " The Saviour," sent by the p]mperor IManuel. (c) " Repose of the Blessed Virgin," painted by Peter the Metro- politan. On the doors (" the Royal Doors," so called because the Ts;ir or Emperor passes through them on the day of his coronation) are painted the Four Evangelists, to represent that through this entrance come the plad tidings of the Eucharist. On each side of the dooi*s are representetl (in ancient churches) Adam and the I'enitent Thief, as tlie first fallen and the first redtHmed. On the farther compartments are repn sented the Virgin and the Forerunder (the Baptist), and at the northern comer the Saint to whom the Church is dedicated. On each side of the entrance to the Nave arc (sometimes) represented the Publican and the I'harlHee, as the two opixjsite types of worshlpeix Where the I'orch is extended, it contiiins the Pagan Philosophers and Poets each with a scroll in his hand contahiing a sentence antici- patory of the Gospel. 'i'he south side of the church is always occupied by the Seven Councils ; the north side either by tlie life of the Patron Saint of the Church (in the Uspcnsky Church, of the Virgin) or by tlie Parables. In the Donskoi Church all the events of the Old and New Testaments arc represented. The columns arc paUitcd with the figures of martyrs. 194 Boute 6. — Moscow : Cathedrals. Sect. I. Eussia. Houte 6. — Moscoio : Cathedrals. 195 Cathedrals. 6. Uspenslu Sobor. Cathedral of the Assumption. — This sacred edifice was formerly called the Patriarclial Cathe- dral, but is now known as the Church of tlie Assumption, or llepose of the Virjj:in. The emperors are crowned in it, and the patriarclis formerly officiated there. The site was ori- jj:inally occupied by a church built in i;>2r) by tlie Metropolitan Peter, wlien it bi'came the i)lace of sei)ulture of the Patriarchs, just as the diurch dedicated to St. Michael, iu the im- mediate vicinity, and founded at the snme time, was destined to receive the remains of the sovereigns of Kussia ; but it was reconstructed between 1475-1471) by Aristotle Fioraventi of Bologna, with the assistance of native artists, after the model ttf the withe- drul at Vladimir. It is solidly built, the foundations l)eing about 14 ft. deep, and the wails and vaults were Toiisiderubly strengthened in 1G20. riie dDuies were only covered with copper-gilt plates in 1084. But, not- withstanding these alterations, and others which were made after the great fire of 1737, the Cathedral of the Assumption retains almost entirely its primitive form, and is therefore one of the most interesting Christian monu- ments in Kussia. The architectural arrangements (a mixture of the Byzantine and Lom- bard) and the ornamentation are all minutely symbolical, and will tliere- fore well re[)ay a careful study of the plan here annexed, taken from Dean Stanley's work on the Eastern Church. '• It is in dimensions," sjiys that learned authority, " what in the West would be called a chapel rather than a cathedral. But it is so fraught with recollections, so teeming with worshippers, so bursting with tombs and pictures from the pavement to the cupola, that its smallness of space is forgotten in the fullness of its contents. On the platform of its nave, from Ivan the; Terrible down- wards to this day, the Tsars have been crowned. Along its altar-screen are deposited the most sacred pictures of llussia ; that, jminted by the Metro- I)olitan Peter ; this, sent by the Greek Emperor Manuel ; that, ])ronght by Vladimir from Kherson. High in the cupola is the chapel, where, as at the sunnuit of the Russian Church, the Russian primates were elected. . . . Round the walls arc buried the pri- mates of the Church ; at the four corners — here, as in all Oriental build- ings, the place of honour — lie those most hii:;hly venerated." St. Peter, the first Metroiiolitan of Moscow, lies in a small cliaix;! on the left side of the Ikonostas, where some sacred relics are likewise exhibited to the faithful, such as a nail of the true cross, and a jxirtion of the robe of our Saviour. A i)icture in the Ikonos- tas — that of the Holy Virgin of Vladi- mir — will be ixiinttnl out as having been j)ainted by St. Luke. The jewels with which it is adorned are valued at 45,000Z., the emerald alone being worth 10,000?. It is one of the most ancient images in Russia, and is i)ainted on a composition of wax. The silver shrine of St. Philip, Metro{)olitan betwLH.'n loGG and 1.509, which stands conspi- cuous on the right "wing" of the Ikonostas, is an ol)ject of more than ordinary interest in connexion with the ecclesiastical history of Russia. Philijj was a i)relate, bold enough to rebuke (van the Terrible for his inhu- man cruelties. The Tsar hail just caused many of his nobles to be jmt to death, and, surrounded by his Oprichniks (a band of lawless adherents who replaced his ancient nobles at the court), had devastated numerous villages in the neighbourhood of Moscow. The people entreated the ]Metro])olitan to intercede for them, but he long hesitated, having given a covenant, j)rior to his election, that he would not interfere with the Tsars household. But, having con- tracted a fourth marriage against the canons of the church, Ivan was placed to a certain extent beyond its pale, and prohibited by the Metropolitan from assisting at mass, although he might listen to the Church service from outside its walls. He neverthe- less appeared one day in the body of the cathedral, accompanied by a crowd of his obi »ox ions followers. Philip continued to pi-ay as if he were un- conscious of the Tsar's presence. " The T.sar demands thy blessing," said the Oprichniks; then the prelate, turning towards his sovereign, addressed him in the following words: "Pious Tsar ! whom dost thou enmlate, having be- trayed the beauty of greatness ? Why hast thou conn; here, where the ofter- ing to God is a bloodless sacrifice, — thou, with bloodstained hands ? AVhenc(^ does the .sun stand still in the lieavens? the Tsjir is laying waste his dominions ! " •' Seditious monk," cried out Ivan, '' I am too merciful to trai- tors! I will henceforth be what tliou hast called me ! " The breach be- tween the Tsar and the prelate now became wider and wider. " Silence," said IMiilij). as he rebuked the Tsar, "lays sins upon tlie soul, and brings death to the whole ix-oplc. I am a stranger and a pilgrim ui)on earth, as nil my fathers were, and I am ready to sufier for the truth." One day he Ixiltlly told him, *' As the image of the Divinity I reverence thee; as a man thou art but dust and ashes." Accu- sations were soon brought against the ]\Ietropolitan, but the council, assem- bled to try him, separated with shame, after listening to his defence. He was officiating in the cathedral when a band of Oj)richniks again entered, and, after reading the sentence of the council dejiriving him of his high oiHce, dragged the old man from the altar, replaced his pontifical robes by a monk's cowl, and, driving him out of the chureh with brooms, carried him off into confinement. His relatives and friends W(ue seized and executed. Ivan sent him a human head, with the inquiry, " Sorcerer, dost thou recognise this head ? " " Yes," answered Philip, " it is the head of my nephew John ; " and he kissed and blessed it. The saint was ultimately imprisoned in a monastery at Tver, where he was put to death. This martyr in the cause of mercy and justice well deserves the honours of a shrine, and the devotion with liusfia. — 18CS. which it is regarded. The emperor never fails to place his lips on the ex- posed and withered forehead of St. Philip. Hermogenes, Patriarch of Moscow, who fell a victim to the Polish inva- sion in 1012, is likewise buried here. The five domes are support^Ml by pillars that ar«^ covered with frescoes on a gold giound. There is mucii gilding on the walls, but the glitter is somewhat moderated by the grim re- presentations of departed saints of the church. At the same time it is im- possible to enter this time-honoured sanctuary without a feeling of venera- tion, nor can a grander sight bo possibly imagined than a coronation within its ancient walls, or even a Te Dcum performed in the presence of the emperor and the court, particu- larly on the -loth (27th) August, the annual feast of the Church, when His i\Iajesty sometimes goes there in state. A coronation is of course a still better opportunity. ''The corona- tion," we again extract from Stanley, " even at the present time, is not a mere ceremony, but a historical event, and solemn consecration. It is pre- ceded by fasting and seclusion, and takes place in the most sacred church in Russia ; the emiieror, not, as in the corresix)nding forms of European in- vestiture, a passive recipient, but him- self the principal figure in the whole scene; himself reciting aloud the con- fession of the orthodox faith ; himself alone on his knees, amidst the assem- bled multitude, offering up the prayer of intercession for the empire ; him- self j)lacing his own crown on his own head; himself entering through the sacred door of the innermost sanctuary, and taking from the altar the elements of the bread and wine." The wooden throne which will be shown to the visitor as the throne of Wladimir Mcmoraachus (ad. 988; is probably of the 17th century. The Tsars before Peter stood in it attired in their robes during Divine service. Behind the altar-screen, among other treasures, stands a Mount Sinai of pure gold, the gift of Prince Potem- kin. It contains the Host, and is said 19G Ttoule G. — Moscoic : Cathedrals. Sect. 1. to weigh 120,000 durats. So vend state papers of importance arc dc- l)ositcd under it, such as the Act of Succession of tlie Emperor Paid, and tlic Alxlication of Ids son Constiintine. A lUblc, presented by the mother of Peter the Great, is so large that it almost requires two men to carry it, and it is said to weigh about 100 lbs. Enghsh. It is studded with emeralds and other precious stones. 7. Arhliancfehlil Sohor, Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. — This clnirch stands close to the catlie(h*al of the Assumption, of whicli it is i)artly a copy. It is a square wliitc washed builthng, with nine gikled domes, anlc, who come to kiss th(i forehead exi)0sed to view. His portrait, in a frame of fine gold, is attached to a pillar above the coffin. The inhabitants of the town of Uglitch, where the prince was murdered, presented the tall silver candlestick which stands near the tond). Historically, the tomb of gi*eatcst interest is that of John IV. or " Terri- ble," who, notwithstanding his nume- rous olTences against the canons of the Church, now lies next the altar. Twice a year a funeral service is j>erformed for the sins of all tho.se that are buried here, the Church i)raying for " that burden of sins, voluntary or involun- tiiry, known to themselves or un- known," which thedeparteices. Two great Russia. Haute 6, — Moscow : Convents, 199 silver kettles and a still larger silver caldron, all presented by the Empress Catherine II., and kept in the plate- room, receive the sacred mixture during its preparation ; it is then poured into sixteen silver jars, gifts of the P^mperor Paul, and distributed on ai)plication to the bishops of the seve- ral dioceses. The ladles, the sieve for straining, and everything employed in the operation are of silver, and weigh together about 13 cwt. The Library of the Patriarchs or Synod is sui)posed to have been founded by the ancient Metropolitans, but its greatest treasures were acquired during the Patriarchate of Nicon (1G52-1G58), for the purpose of comparing the cor- rupted ritual of the Russo-Greek Church with the more ancient manu- scripts, Greek and Slavonian. The printed books which the library ori- ginally contained have been removed to other colleciions. In 1823 the Sy- nodal Library }x)asted of 4G7 Greek IMSS., of which 242 on parchment ; and 95G Russo-Slavonian MSS., of which 9G on parchment. Very few additions have been made since. Three copies in (ireek of the Evangelists, de- posited here, are attributed to the 8th centy., and the earliest Slavonian MS. in this collection is supposed to have been written in the year 1073. The most ancient Slavonian version of the Gospels, in this library, bears the date of 1143. The Metropolitan, or the Suffragan Bisho]) of Moscow, will, on application, give the student of patristic literature ready access to this extensive and im- jK)rtant collection. A catalogue in Russian may be purchased of the sacristan, whose kind services should be rewarded. 11. CUudof 01' Miracle Monastery (at the Redeemer Gate). — The sjwt on which this monastery stands was occu- pied during the Tartar invasion by the stables of Djanibek, the dominant Khan, whose wife, Taidula, having been cured of a disease by St. Alexis, Metropolitan of all Russia, presented the latter with the ground now so holy. In 13G5 St. Alexis laid the foundation of the monastery, which thenceforth became the residence and Cathedral of the Primates. Successive fires destroyed the buildings erected by the piety of various princely bene- factors. The Cathedral was restored by the Tsar Michael and his father the Patriarch Philaret, but its present appearance is due to the mimificence of the Empresses Anne and Elizabeth. It was sacked during a revolt in 1771, and pillaged in 1812, when it was occupied by the staff of Napoleon. Before the spoliation of the monasteries by Catherine II., this establishment had no less than 18,681 male serfs attached to it. The church of St. IMichael was built by St. Alexis in 13G5, rebuilt 1504, and restored in 1779. Its canonised founder lies in a silver shrine near the S. wall of tho cathedral dediciited to his name. His Sakkos and other pontificals are pre- served in a glass case near the shrine. St. Michael's Church stands in the yard of the monastery, and is not open daily. It is, however, well worth seeing since its restoration in tlio ancient style. The sacristy contains a MS. copy of the New Testament exe- cuted by St. Alexis, and much treasm-o in the shape of jewelled vestments and religious insignia. The library con- tains 23G MSS. on parchment aud paper, and 199 printed books. There is a Psalter of the 13th centy. and another of the 15th. The oldest printed books are of the 17tli centy. By ancient custom, children before being put to school are brought by their parents to this monastery to invoke the blessing of St. Alexis on their studies, and the peasants of a village formerly belonging to the saint still come on his name-day to pray to their Lord. 12. Vosnesenski Devichi (Ascension) Convent. — This nunnery was founded by Eudoxia, wife of Dimitry of the Don, in 1393, who retired to it after the death of the Conqueror of Kuli- kova. Although the princess fasted rigorously and wore heavy weights, she was wont to appear in the world attired in costly dress and precious stones, 200 Boute G. — Moscow : Arsenal, Sect. I. thereby giving rise to a certain amount of scandal, which slie however refuted by exhibiting the withering eftects of her self-imposed jienance. At last, however, she retired entirely from the world, and devoted her life to prayer and the healing of the sick. Thcnce- fortli the nunnery became the last resting-place of the princesses of the reigning house. Consumed frequently by tires, the convent in its i)resent form was built in 1721, and renovated after the conflagration of 1737 and the French occupation. The colls occupy 2 floors of a large stone building. The principal church stands in tiie centre of tile court. The tombs of the i)rin- cesses begin at the S. door and termi- nate at tlie N. entrance, being mnged iu two rows aloni^ tlie walls. The most ancient is that of Eudoxia, or St. Eudoxia, as she is called by the Church, adorned with a silver shrhie placed in 1822. On the rt. hand near the wall lies Eudoxia, the consort of Michael, the first sovereign of the llomanoff' dynasty (obiit 1G45) : next to her are the 2 wives of his son Alexis. The tombs of tlie 2 wives of Jojin III. will be found on the 1., at the head of the toml) of Eudoxia. Next in the corner lies the first of his consorts, Mary, daughter of the Prince of Tver ; and by her side are the re- mains of S()i)lii:i, daughter of Thomas Palicologus, brother of the last Chris- tian Emperor of Constantinople. An- other descendant of this Pala^ologus lies buried in the cliurchyard of the parish of T.andnlph in Cornwall. He died in 1G3G. The mother of John tlie Terrible comes next. Beyond are the tombs of 4 of his G wives ; the last tomb is that of Eudoxia, first consort of Peter the Great, who died in 1731. 13. Arsenal and Cannon. — The arse- nal stands between the Trinity and Nicholas (iates, on the spot where the Streltsi once mustered, and where stood the houses of many puissant Boyars. Its construction, on the model of tlie arsenal of Venice, was commenced in 1701, and finished in 173G. Tlie N.E. angle was blown up in 1812, and has since been restored. The cannon taken during the retreat of the French are arranged in long rows along the outside walls of the building. The French artillery is represented by 365 pieces, the Aus- trian by 189, the Pi-ussian by 123, the Italian by 70. the Neaiwlitaii by 40, the Bavarian by 34, the Dutch by 22, the Saxon by 12, the Spanish by 8, the Polish by 5, while Westi)halia, Han- over, aiul Wurtemburg, make up the total of 87."). The rest are mere orna- mental i)ieces of ordnance cast in Piussia. The huge cannon projecting from the furthest angle of the arsenal is cfilleil the Tsar-Pushka or Tsar- Cannon, on account of its extraordi- nary .size. It was cast durhig the reign of Theodore, whose effigy is on it. Its weight is nearly 40 tons. There is also a mortar which was cast by the false Hmitry. Wlien Peter, after the battle of Narva, ordered the old cannon and many church-bells to hii recast into ordnance, lie sjiared this historical monument by a special Ukaz. The longest caniion was cast in the rei^n of Alexis. The building oi)i)osite is the Senate-house — the High Court of Ajijieal of JMoscow. It was built by Catherine II., and re- stored 18GG. In it are estaldished the new Courts of Law, with trial liy juiy in criminal cases. The magnificent hall is well worth seeinir. II. Kit at Gorod, or " Chinese Town,'* — The Knnilin having becx^me over- crowded, Helena, the mother and re- gent of John the Terrible, ordcretl a large space to be enclosed outside the Kremlin, and to be called after her birthiilace Kitaigrod in Podolia. Tho Kremlin was the CashUnui and tho Kitai the Civitas. The walls were commenced in 1535 by Petroc, an Italian. The following objects should be visited in the Kitai Gorod :— 1. Cathedra} of St. Basil the Beatified. Vassill Blajennol (also called the Ca- thedral of the Protection and the Trinity).— This remarkable eh. stands on the Krasnaya Ploschad (lieil or Iinssia. Itouie 6. — Moscow : Tlie Lohnoe Mesto, 201 Beautiful Place), outside the Holy Gate of the Kremlin wall. It is erected on the site of an ancient ch. and cemetery, in whicli the sainted Basil, a popular prophet and worker of miracles, who, in the language of the Church, was ''idiotic for Christ's sake," was buried in the year 1552. Two years later John the Terrible ordered a ch. to be built over the re- mtdiis of Basil, in commemoration of the subjugation of Kazan. In 1555 the wooden ch. thus built was taken down and the foundation of the present edi- iice laid. Its architect was an Italian, whose eyes, tradition wrongly reports, were put out by John the Terrible after the construction of the ch., in order that it might not be equalled or surpassed. It is suiiposed to have been fini.shed in the latter i)art of the IGth centv. bv Theodore, the son and .successor of John IV., who caused to be placed in this ch. the relics of another saint, John the Idiot, surnamed the " "Water- carrier and Big-cap," from his habit of carrying water for others, and from his wearing a heavy iron caj) on his head. Idiotcy is a form of mendicancy very coinmon in Ilussia, the people being religiously compassionate in cases of mental aberration. Beggars of this description still go about Moscow bare- fw)ted in winter. The ch. of St. Basil suft'ered frequently from fire, and was under repair from 1744 to 1784. In 1812 Napoleon ordered the general in command of his artillery '• to destroy that mo.sque ; " but it was sj^rod for reconsecration on the 1st December of the same year. The cathedral is grotesquely irregu- lar in appeamnce. It has 11 domes, each difl'crent in colour and design, surmounting as many chapels dedicated to various saints. The shrine of St. Basil reposes in the chapel below, which is alone open daily. In order to see the upper Chapels application must be made to the clergy of the church. Visitors will be shown the heavy chains and crosses which St. Basil wore for jK^nance. Tlie iron weights which belonged to the other idiot will be viewed in another chapel. His cap was lost in 1812. 2. The " Lohnoe' Mesto" a circular tribune of stone outside the cathedral of St. Basil.— It was also called the " Kranievo Mesto," from cranium, its present appellation being also deriveji from loh, a skull, or golgotha. But as the tribune was built by Italian archi- tects early in the IGth centy., its name is ])robably identical with the lohium or lohia, in the dialect of Milan — a raised place or opiii portico where the citizens assembled to deliberate, suggestive of the lohhy of the House of Commons. Popular tradition asserts that this tribune was anciently a place of execution ; but modern arclueolo- gists dispute it, and insist on its having been merely a place from which the Tsar addressed the people, and where his edicts were proclaimed. The first mention of the Eobnoe' INIesto is in 1549, after a dreadful fire and riot, when John the Terrible stood on it, and weejiing acknowledged his misrule and solemnly promised to be in future the judge and defender of his subjects. The metrojiolitan and patriarchs of INIoscow blessed the people from this tribune. Nicon stood here and gave Alexis that blessing which, having been ineflica- eious in overturning the Poles, brought down uix)n him the wrath of his sove- reign and laid the foundation of his disgrace. The ceremony of riding on an ass, performed in great state by the patriarchs before Easter, was opened by the reading of the Gospels on this Golgotha. The patriarch, carrying the cup and the Gospels, mounted an ass at the foot of the tribune, and the Tsar led it by the bridle to the cathedral of the Assumption. In 1GS2 the leaders of the Dissenters addressed the Mosco- vites from the Lobnoe Mesto in defence of their objections to the innovations of Nicon. The space in front remained the place of execution until 1727, when Peter II. ordered the gallows and stakes to be removed. 3. The Bomanoff House {Valaia Boijar Bomanovylh). — A visit to this palatinm will aflbrd the traveller an opportunity of studying the archi- tecture and mode of life of the Itus- sians in the middle ages. The Romanoff 202 Monte G. — Moscow: Ttomanoff House. Sect. I. Hoiiso, restored between 1856 and 1859, was the birthplace of Michael, the first sovereign of the reigning dynasty, whose father, the IJoyar Theodore, known later as Philaret. Patiiarcli of Moscow, was also brought \\\) there. The external walls, built of stone, are alone of undoubted antiquity : the in- terior, after having been ravaged by fire and sacked by the French, is now entirelv rebuilt in tlie style of Rns^sian dwelling-houses of the KJth and ITtii centuries. It is more a museum of ancient domestic art than a monument of antiquity. Tlie house stands on the sloj^e of a small eminence, and has 4 stories on the S. towards the court, and only one facing Yarvarskaia-street, where it occupies a frontage of about 57 ft. The principal entrance is from the court. Cellars for wine, mead, beer, kvass, and ice, form the basement ; the next story is devoted to tlie kitchen and various ottices. The ajjartments of the Boyar are above. These consist of a vestibule, to the right of which is a room for female servants; next to this again visitors will tiiid a diminutive nurserv, in which are exhibited the toys and primers of the period. Tiic largest room on this floor is called the Chaix-l, or " Krestovaya " (Chamber of the Cross). Here the chief of the family received the priests who came to offer their congratulations at Christ- mas, Easter, and other great holydays, and assisted with his dependants at matins and vespers. The roof is arched in a kind of Gothic style with niches, the whole being ricldy ornamented witli devices taken from i)atents deli- vered bv the Tsar Michael. The family plate and other valuables were preserved in this sacred chamber. Some curious specimens are exhibited on a stand, which, in tlie language of the country, was called a ijorha or mountain. The traveller will recog- nise a small equestrian stjituette of Charles I., and by their make 2 ewers presented by Charles II. At great festivals the plate was pih'd up in the centre of the table. Goblets and other vessels of silver were very much in I fashion, and were, in the absence of orders of knighthood and of medals, bestowed by the sovereign in recom- pense of meritorious services. There are many objects of antiquity in this chamber illustrative of the domestic habits of the Tsars. There are also several secret recesses in the walls for the concealment of treasure. A glass cu]»board contains some ancient images, and among them is one with which, tradition says, Philaret blessed his son when he was elected Tsar, and with that image also the present meti*f)po- litan I'hilaret blessed the Eniper«»r Alexander II. at the benediction of the Komanoff House on its restoration. Alongside this chamber are a small oratory and the '* IJoyarskaia I'alata," a kind of study. On a table in the latter are writing materials and two brass inkstands after tlie model of those used in England in the days of Chaucer. The li(m and unicorn, with which these are decorated in relief, are IJyzantine emblems, and have nothing to do with the supporters of the royal arms of England. It is heated by a stove of coloured tiles with allegorical figures and varicms inscriptions; thus on one brick the visitor will see two birds separating from each other, with the motto, "Fidelity unites us;"' on another a tortoise with the humorous adage, "There is no better house than one's own." JEsop's fables were frequently rej)resented on the bricks of that periml. A door leads from the Krestovaya, by a narrow staircase, to the top story or tereui, a name sui)j)0sed to Ix' de- rived from a (ireek word, signifying "upper floor reserved for women." The terem is built of wood, and in- cludes the l)edchamber, the svetlitsa or reception-room, and atuiTet. Below are two rooms which formed the Nursery. In it will be seen a cradle, toys, primers, &c., of the early jxirt of tile 17th centy. The walls and ceiling of the bed- chamber are very richly carved in wooide the Kitai walls. Immediately after the frost has fairly set in, an indiscriminate slaughter of live stock of all kinds commences. The carcase is exposed at once to the cold air and frozen, without being previously allowed to become cokl : when wanted for use, it is immersed in Water for a few minutes, and after being thus thawed the meat may bo used, but it has not the freshness and flavour that it would have if just killed ; when once thawed it must be cooked without delay. If it has L 3 204 Boute ^.—Moscoio : Foundling Eospttah Sect. I. been allowed to cool before it is frozen, althon,i;h no ditfercnce is perceptible while in its frozen state, immediately on being thawed the meat turns black, and is totally unfit for use; and the same result ensues upon the frost breaking up in the spring. But it cer- tainly is a good expedient, not only to save the expense of keH.^ping the ani- mals so many months, but to have their fiesh at any moment fresh, while its icy hardness is an effectual protection against the injuries it might otherwise sustain in being conveyed from one extremity of the country to the other. Early in the winter the first great frozen market is held in all the large cities, and all prudent housekeepers lay in as ample a supply of provisions as their means will enable them. Merchants with i)rovisions then crowd to IMoseow auil St. Petersburg from all quarters of the empire. The fish of the AVhite Sea and of the great northern lakes are piled in huge heaps in the streets, side by .side with the frozen oxen from the steppes of the Crimea, tlu; sheep from tiie shores of the Caspian, and the deer from the banks of the Knisei aiul Ii-tish. The number of persons cm- ployed in this traffic is enormous, ami the entire interruption to it, caused by the occuiv.ition of IMoscow by the French in 1812, just at the time of the great market, contributed not a little to increase the miseries of war. On one or two occasions a sudden break of the frost, after a week or fortnight's continuance, when immense quantities of frozen provisions have been thawed on their way to the markets, has caused not only great loss to the merchants, but serious incon- venience to the inhabitants of the large cities, who, relying on this regular supply, make no other preparation for their wants. G. Iversh'd" Vorota, Iberian Gate and Chapel, dedicated to the Iberian Mother of God. — This is the principal e'ntranco and exit into the Kitai Gorod.. The chapel contains a picture of the Iberian Mother of God, brought from IMount Athos in the reign of Alexis, and con- sidered to 1)0 of miraculous efficacy. It is always b.sct by \vor;3hippcrs, whose donations amount to about 10,0007. per annum, of which 7000/. is contributed towards the pay of the Metropolitan of the see of Moscow. The devotional habits of the Russian people may bo watched here with interest. Having viewed the Kremlin and Kitai Gorod, the traveller should drive to see the places below enumerated. Detached Sights. Foundling Hnspitah — No traveller should omit a visit to this institution, for which an order is easily procured. The sight of this huge nursery is as curious as it is instructive, and will aftbrd plenty of materials for refiection to the moralist, or the student of social science. It was opened in 1703 by tho Empress Catherine II., and organized in accordance with the views of Betski, an eminent philanthropist t»f that roigii, whose jwrtrait is exhibited in a galleiy, together with the likenesses of succes- sive benefactors too numerous to men- tion. A Lombard bank or INIout do Pie'te now in liquidation, and a Savings Bank which still fiourishes, have hi- therto been the sources of revenue of this establishment, but the facilities afforded by railways of bringing in- fants to a common centre threaten seriously to make inadequate the ways and means now snpi)lied by the Govern- ment since the concentration of all financial institutions in the State Bank. The yearly grant amounts to about ISO.OOOV. A lying-in hospital, with secret wards, but open likewise to mothers who are only ])oor, occupies one of the wings, while the largest and best part of the square building is devoted to an institution for female orphans. More than 2000 women have recourse; annually to the secret wards, and about 200 to those reserved for ca^es of poverty. Tho Foundling hospital admits yearly about 12.000 children, who are not left, as in some other institutions of a similar kind, at the door of the l)uilding, but are taken openlv, either by their mothers Enssia. Route 6. — Moscow : Foundling Hospital. 205 or some friend, into an entrance room set apart for the purpose. Here the infant is at once received without anv further question being asked than, "Has the child been baptised? ' and if so, ''By what name?' The child is then registered in the books of the institution ; a number is assigned to it, wliich is henceforward worn around its neck, and figures on its cot, while a receipt, showing the same number, is lianded to the bearer of the child, in order to enable her to visit, or even claim it at any futun^ period up to the age of 10 years. The infant is then passed into another room, where, after being undressed and washed, it is swaddled in the clothes of the Hospital, and handed to its future foster parent, she being the woman who hapi)ens at the moment to stand at the head of the list amongst a number who are always waiting in attendance. These women, who are g(;nerally peasants from the country, have frequently, it is believed, themselves been the def)Ositors of their own children at the liospital a few hours previously, but probalily tiie great majority are mothers who have left their own childern in the country to be brought up by hand, being attracted by the wages of 6d. and sometimes Sd. a day and the good fare provided them in the institution. From the room where the infants are received, the visitor will doubtless pass with interest from one ward to another of this vast hospital, where lie will not fail to perceive that no- thing which good domestic manage- ment can suggest, or medical art^ap- prove, has been omitted. The whole establisliment is conducted with the regidarity of cloclcwork under the management and supervision of an ex- perienced and intelligent medical staff, while the smallest and most trivial operation is i^rformed with the utmost delicacy of which the female hand is cai)able. The simple arts of washing and dressing arc brought to a perfection, and executed with a rapidity, unknown elsewhere. The infants are bathed in copper tubs of the most convenient form, liikHl with thick fiannel, and they are dressed on down pillows, instead of on the bony knees, or the still more cruel hoops, of modern nurses. There aro distinct wards for every illness to which the children are liable, with the newest and most approved appliances fitted to each. In the ward for eye diseases, the visitor should try to see the eye syringe in use. The utmost attention is bestowed on nifants prematurely born, whose lifc is sustained by placing them in hollow copper bassinets, the sides and bottom of which are filled with hot water. The morning after their admission, the children, if not already baptized, are admitted within the pale of the or- thodox Church, receiving the Christian name of the saint who may happen to preside over that day in the Russian calendar, and, for a surname, the Christian name of the priest who ofli- ciates, with the addition of the " off," so familiar in Russian patronymics. After remaining in the institution for 4 weeks, and having been vaccinated, the infants, if strong and healthy, are sent, together with then nurses, to tlK) villages to which the latter belong. Here the nurses receive about 4s. Qd. a month for the maintenance of their charges, under the supervision of tho doctor of the district. The coarse fare of the peasantry, however, and tho rigour of the climate, cause about 50 per cent, of the children to die before the age of one year, and about a quarter only of those brought to the hospital arrive at maturity. It may be argued that such institu- tions tend to recognise and increase innnorality, and statistics may be ad- duced to show, that, while the number of illegitunatc births in the whole Rus- sian empire is little over 4 per cent., at JNIoscow and St. Petersburg, where Foundling Hospitals exist, the projwr- ti(^u is in the former town 371, and in the latter 20| per cent., and that there are about 10 per cent, more of illegiti- mate births at IMoscow than at Paris. On the other hand, it may be questioned whether the proportion of legitimate or ilk'gitimate registered births is a just criterion of momlity. The proportion of the latter to the former is always greater in the large and thickly popu- 20G Bonte G. — Moscow : Museum. Sect. T. lated towns thnn in the country ; and us to the lehitivL' proportion between Moscow and Paris, this will only be really known when the science of sta- tistics! shall have learnt to give the numbers of undiscovered cases of in- fanticide and other hardly les^s infa- mous crimes. Moreover, a gnat pro- lX)rtion of the children brought to the institution are not illegitimate; and are only left there by the parents from poverty or if in service. On the other hand, the increase of ]iopulation elfected by the Foundling Hospitals of INIoscow and St. IVters- burg is not so great as might at first Bight be supposed ; for indeiundent of tiie great mortality among the eliildren after tliey have left the institution — mortality owing, in a great degree, to the severe climate, and to the universal custom among the llussian peasantry of leaving young infants alone for several hours at a time, with the " Soska," or kind of milk poultice, at their mouths, to nourish or to choke them, — it must not be forgotten that but too manv of these ille*j;itimate chil- dren are saved at tiie expen.se of the lawful otl'spring of their nurses, left at a critical age to be brought up by hand in the villages. The boys when they grow up are not amenable to military service, and are even exempt from certain taxes. Tlie great mass of them become agricultural laboiuers. About 150 are ainiually brought up at the Industrial School at Moscow, where they are taught various trades, and "l^yO at the School of Sur- gery as hospitiil dressers. Some of the girls arc taken baek to the hosj)ital, where they are trained as nurses, and even as midwives, i'or which a special school is attached. In case a girl marries in her village before attaining her majority, she is provided by the institution with a trousseau. The Nicholas Institute, wliich will be shown the visitor, is only for the female orphans of indigent servants of the crown; another for boys existing elsewhere. About 800 girls receive here a libenil education, intended to prepare them for tuition. On leaving the establishment they are provided with an outfit, and enjoy small salaries, j)roportionate to the certiticates which they have gained on their examination — salaries which they receive during the years which they are bound to devote to the Crown as govenies.ses and school teachers in the interior of the empire. Although this school is attached to the Foundling Hospital, no foundlings are admitted. oO girls are brought up in it at their own exj)ense. The register of the Foundling Hosjti- tal is an object of interest to those who understand the Kussiun language. It contains an entry in 1812 of '2 loys sent there by onhr of the Kmperor Napoleon. Admission on ai)i>licalion to the governor. The porter will ex- pect a fee. Puhlic Mnscmn (ruhh'rhny Mityc'e, olf INlu- seum, bequeathed to the juiblic in lMi8 l)y Count Kumiantsoti", Chancellor of the Kmi)ire, was removed in 18G1 from St. Petersburg to INIoscow, where it now forms the nucleus of a collection that aspires to rival that of the liritish ISIuseum. It occupies a si)lendid man- sion, once the residence of the Pash- kof family, and which, from its impos- ing site, stands out i)iominently froui amidst the other colosi^al and j)ic- turesque buildings of Moscow. The original liumiantsoif ^Museum has been considemljly augmented by donations antl by other ctdlections, .such as that of Christian antiquities and early (ireek and Slavonic MSS., lent by 'Mr. P. Sevastianof, a i)atriotic iirdia'ologist. The Libra 11/, increased by inqxrial gifts and by purchases, now i)ossesses l(;o,000 volumes. It is particularly rich in ancient Slavonic INISS., which are arranged chronologically in glass cases; 45 of them are on parchment. One of the most ancient Slavonian MSS. of the Gos«pels, written in 11G4, ' is to be found liere. No less than Ihn e i MSS. on parchment or iiajK-r belong : to the 12th century, ten to the l^th, ' twenty to the 14th', and forty-three to ' the loth. There are also very many ' well-executed cojiies of ancient INISS., Russia. Boute 6. — Moscow : Museum, 207 and 42 copies of the Evangelists, rang- ing between the Pith and IGth cen- turies. The library is rich in historical and ecclesiastical MSS. and in speci- mens of early printing in the Russian characters. The room in which the bust of Nicholas I. is ])laced contains the library of his consort in hand- somely bound volumes. The private pajiers and correspondence of the great Chancellor are deposited here. Count Ilumiantsot^'took great pains in collect- ing works, originals as well as copies, having reference to the relations be- tween Russia and other countries. A volumii entitled 'Co^jies of Letters written and received by Sir Charles Comwaleys, Knight, uvo 17 years of age who shall have passed a satisfactory examination in one of the gynmasia or some other scholastic institution under the supervision of the Minister of Public Instruction, as well as to those who shall have undergone a certified course of tuition at home. The terms of admission being thus easy, a university education in Russia is no aristocratic distinction. The lAhrary contains 100,000 vol- umes, and is more especially rich in historical works. The scientitic col- lections are considerable in size and of a practical character. The anatomical cabinet of Loder, and the microscopic preparations of Lieberkuhn, are worthy of notice. There are also some extraor- dinary specimens of human malforma- tions kept in spirits of wine, a very good collection of skeletons, and many curiosities in the way of foreign sub- stances extracted from the stomachs of animals. A camel's stomach, extended to its natural extent, with all its cells and subdivisions so arranged as to render visible every corner in which the fooel was retained till perfectly dissolved, and an instrument used by I*eter the Great in drawing teeth, are likewise exhibiteel. The Zoological Cabinet contains 73.G38 si)ecimens. The University has a good working mineral collection, not very remarkabUj for its individual specimens. (10,8(!0 in number). An hospital is attached to the Uni- versity, with lying-in wards ; also the Hospital of St.* Catherine, where 1400 patients are annually admitted. Russia. Moute G. — Moscow : Suhareff Tower, 211 Sulmreff Tower. — This conspicuous and elegant object marks the old N.E. boundary of the city. A regiment of Streltsi, under the commanel of Col. Suhareff, guarded this part of the town, and kept a gate wJiieh then stood tliere. When the Streltsi revolted in 1(582, SuliarefTs regiment escorted Peter and his mother and brother to the Troitsjx Monastery. Between the years 1G92 and 1G95 Peter the Great caused the old gate of his faithful regiment to be replaced by the present building. In his enthusiasm for naval matters, the great founder of the Rus- sian navy caused the tower to be built in the shape of a vessel, the tower representing the mast, and the gal- leries all round pretending to a re- semblance with the quarter-deck of an ancient flag-ship, while the eastern and western extremities were to typify the bow and stern. Peter the Great is sniiix)sed to have held secret councils of State in a chamber of this tower; and tradition says it was the place of meeting of a kind of Masonic lodge, styled, "Neptune's Company," of which Peter I. was the head. The peojjlc believed that their great Tsar and his companions practise'd the "black arts" within the Suhareff. Comedies were performe late Empress, formerly the proix?rty of Count Orloff, and presented by him to her Imperial Majesty. This villa, a much more appropriate term for it than palace, which it is sometimes called, is very handsomely furnished, and com- fort, in the English sense of the word, is quite realised ; the Empress's bed- room and boudoir are })articul{U'ly worthy of attention ; the walls are not jiapered, but hung with white muslin lined with pink, and fluted with as much care as a goffered collar. Tho 212 Boute G. — Moscow : Simonoff Monastery. Sect. I. view from the balcony at tlie back of the vilki, lookintj: towards the river, is very pretty. The gardens and shrub- beries are exceedingly well laid out, and the collection of liot-house plants very choice. A ticket of admission is required to see this villa, wliich must be procured from the olhce of the palace. It should be visited rather early in the afternoon, so as to give the traviller time to have a good view from the Sparrow Hills, the proper hour for which is towards sunset. The Krendin faces these hills, and as the tmvcller gazes on it he will picture to himself what must have been the feelings of the Fn.-neh army when they caught the iirst view of the golden minarets and starry domes. After traversing the dreary plains of Lithuania, and tighting, with fearful loss, their way up to tliis spot, the limit of their long career, no wonder that those weary legions, unable to suppress their joy, shouted with one voice, " Moscow." 2. Simonoff Mounter II. — Standing on the liigliest ground near IMo.scow, the tall belfry of the Simonoii* affords a iiner and fuller view of the city than even the tower of Ivan Veliki or the Sparrow Hills. It is at least one liour's drive from the centre of jNIoscow, but should be visited at any sacrifice. The Slmmiotf Monastery, founded in 1370 by St. Sergius, Was removed tf) its i)resent sitc^ alx)ut, tlie year KJDO. It was anciently the most important mo- nastery in liUssia, and as such was enriched by princely and private gifts of immense value. A great number of villages once bi'longed to it, and, until 1704, as many as 12.000 male serfs. In 1012, notwithstanding the resistance offered by the stout defenders of its castellated walls, the Sinionofl* fell into the hands of the Lithuanians and Poles, "who sackeil it. During the plague of 1771 it was made a Quarantine sta- tion, and in 1788 it was suppressed as a monasteiy, and converted into a mili- tary hospital. In 171'."), however, the Simonofl' was restored to its original dedication, its prosperity behig only once more cheeked, in 1812, when several of the buildings were burned down. Then; are G churches within th«! walls. The most ancient is the Cathedral of the Assinnption, a mas- sive building in the Byzantine style, founded about the year 1871), and con- secrated 140"). An image in the ikon- osttis or altar-screen is jx^inted out as having been that with which St. Ser- gius blessed Dimitry of the Don when he set out to fight the Tartars. The cupola was gilt in 1830. The wall, 2700 ft. in length, was built in the earlier part of the 10th centy. The towers are 8;") to 120 ft. in height. Tiiere is a subterranean passage from one of these to tlu? pond in the vicinity, much frequented by the believing sick. There are many costly vestments to be seen in the Sacristy, as well as a gold cross, studded with precious stones; the Gospels in a binding of gold and jewels, presented in 1083 by Maiy, the daughter of Alexis; gold vesst'ls weighing 3 lbs. ; and many other ecclesiastical treasures. St. Jonah, subsequently Metropolitan of all Rus- sia, lived here as a monk in the loth centy. But the great attraction of this mo- nastery is the l>elfry, 330 ft. high, erected between 183D and 1844, at the expense of a merchant of IMoscow, who gave the sum of 400,000 rubles (banco), in houses and shops, towards its con- struction. Under the guidance of the bell- ringer, the traveller w ill ascend to the very cupola, and look out of a small window, which his guide will o|M?n. Unfortunately the bell-ringer explains the magnificent panorama in IJussian, l>ut he can point out any locality that may be mentioned. The nearest white walls are those of the Danilof Monastery, founded in 1272 bv the canonized Prince Daniel of Moscow, l)ut rebuilt in the reign of John the Terrible. There is nothing to see in it except the silver shrhie of the founder. Beyond the Danilof will be seen the red walls of the Donskoi INIonastery (vide Description), and further still is Russia. Boute G. — Moscow : Novosimslci Monastery. 213 the tall, golden-crowned belfry of the Novo Devichi {see under). The Spar- row Hills will be seen in the vicinity of the Donskoi. In the cemetery within the Simonoff are buried many remarkable men, and amongst them, under the refectory, riel(l-3Iarshal Bruce, of Scottish origin. Near the monastery is a small Reformatory for youthful criminals, founded in 1804 by a Society for tlie Diffusion of Christian Knowledge. It is the first establishment of the kind in Russia Proper. It holds 15 boys, and is supported by private subscrip- tion. Travellers are invited to inspect this '• Ispravitelnyi Priyut," conducted by Prof. Kapoustine. 3. Novospasl'i Monastery. — On the roatl to the Simonoff, as well as in returning to Moscow, the visitor will ])ass a very large monastery, called the Novospa.ski (New Passion), removed to its present site in 1490. In it were buried the i)rincipal members of the Romanoff family, before it became a dynasty, and a palace within it, now destroyed, was for some time occupied by the Nun Martha, mother of the first Romanoff sovereign, and who lies buried under the floor of the cathe- dral. There are .5 churches within its walls. The cathedral is jirofusely de- corated with fresco-paintings, repre- senting the genealogy of the sovereigns of Russia from St. *Olg-a to the Tsar Alexis, and the deseent of the kings of Isi-ael. On either side of the stair- case leading up to the cathedral are representations of the Greek philo- .sophers Solon, Plato, Ptolemy, Plu- tarch, &c. Behind the altar-screen are portraits of the ten patriarchs of Russia. All these frescoes, with the exception of the representation of the Last Judgment on the W. wall of the cathedral, were restored in 1837. The male visitor should go behind the altar-screen, and see near the right wing of the Ikonostas the remarkable frescoes of the 17th centy., depicting the founders of the ch., the Tsars Michael and Alexis. Many of the ancient Boyar families of Russia arc buried here, but the gmve of most interest to the foreign visitor is that which will be found in the court of the monastery, to the rt. on entering witlnn its walls. The inscription on the tomb records the death of the Nun Dosythea, who was no other than the Princess Tarakanova, daughter of the Empress Elizabeth and of her chancellor Razumofsky. It will be remembered that this princess was personated by an imix)stor, who was perfidiously seized by Gregory Orloff at Naples, and conveyed in a Prussian ship to St. I'etersburg, where she died, in the fortress, although not by drowning during an inundation, as assumed by the painter of a well- known picture exhibited at Paris in 1807. The walls of this monastery have frequently repelled the enemies of IMoscow. They were originally built of wood in 1571, in expectation of the inroad of Khan Divlet- Ghirei. In 1501, when the Khan invaded Mosco- via, this monastery, like the Simonoff and the Danilofi", was turned into a fortress. It was again put into a de- fensive condition in 1013 and 1018, when the Poles occupied the city. The present walls of stone were built be- tween 1040 and 1042, at the expense of the Tsar Michael and his mother, Martha. They have a circumference of about 430 Eng. fms., and their height is about 4 fms. The helfry, which rises 235 ft., is a very handsome object. Commenced in 1750, it was completed in 1785. In the neighbourhood of this mo- nastery the visitor will be struck by the remains of a gate in the Russo- Byzantine style of architecture. It is sjiid to have belonged to an archiepis- eopal palace whieh once stood there. The old gate now leads to the Kru- titski barracks. The ch. next to it is the parish ch. of the Assumption, " Na Krutitsalih," the name of the locality. 4. Noco-Devichi Convent, opposite the Sparrow Hills, between the Mosk- 214 Itoute G. — Moscow : Diiislcoi Monastery. Sect. I. va and the Deviche-pole, or Maidens' Field, where the populace is enter- tained at the coronation of emperors. It was founded in 1524 by Vassili Ivanovitch, Grand Duke of Moscow, in commemoration of the capture of Smolensk, which was celebrutod for its miraculous image of the Virgin, once deposited at ^Moscow, but restored to Lithuania in 145G. A copy of that image was transferred from the Cathe- dral of the Assumption to this convent on its foundation, and is now shown in the principal ch. llichly endowed, it became a refuge for Tsarinas who re- nounced the world, Boris Godunof and his sister Irene, widow of the Tsar Theodore, the last of the Ruriks, re- tired here ; but the patriarch, accom- panied by the clergy and people, came to entreat Boris, in I.'jOS, to assume the reins of power, which had been in the hands of a Council for G weeks, and took him hence in state to the palace of the Kremlin : 12 years later the Novo-Devichi was the scene of san- guinary contiicts with the Poles, and it was at last burnt down and de- stroyed. It was, however, restored by the Tsjir ^Michael. Sophia, the ambi- tious sister of Peter the Great, was confined here. Having incited the Streltsi to revolt against her l>rother during his absence abroad, she was forced to take the veil under the name of Susannah, and died in this convent under the strictest surveillance in 1704. She lies buried in the ch., together with several other i)rincesses. The Foundling Hospital established here by l*eterl., in 172."), when the number of children amounted to 250, was al)0- lislied on the construction of the great Foundling Hospital, Tlie convent suifered but litth? from the approach .>f the French in 1812, the King of Naples having ordered that Divine service should be continued as usual ; but on the retreat of Napoleon, the belfry and other buildings were only saved from being blown into the air by the intre- pidity of Sarah and a few other nuns, who bravely extinguished the matches that were to have tired a train of gun- powder. There are G churches within the convent. 5. Dojisloi Monastery. — This build- ing is also a considerable way out of town, beyond the Kaluga Gate. It was founded in 1592, by the Tsar Theodore, in gratitude for a victory over Kazy Girey, Khan of the Crimea, obtained on this very spot by the mira- culous interposition of tlie Virgin 3Iary, whose image was presented to the monastery by the Cossacks of the Don, whence its name. A church i)ro- cession still eelebrates the , 10, and 11 o'clock ; vespers at 5 p.m. 2. French chapel, dedicated to St. Louis ; entrance either from Great or liittle Lubianka-street. Mass at 9 and 10 o'clock on week-days, and at 10 and 11 A.M. on Sundays; vespers at 5 P.M. Brithli Consulate. — There is a Bri- tish Consul at ISIoscow. His address will easilv be ascertained. ROUTE 7. moscow to tpvoitsa monastepwy (tkoitskaya-sekgieva LAVKA). By rail in 2 h. 20 m., distance 40 m. ; fare 2 rs. each way ; 3 trains a day. (This line is being extended to Yaro- slaf.) The facility with which this histo- rical monastery can now be visited leaves the traveller no excuse for neglecting a pilgrimage to the shrine (if St. Seigius, its founder .and patron. This is the Canterbury of Russia, and a day may well be devoted to it. St. Sergius, the sou of a boyar of Rostof, at the head of twelve discijiles, established a monas- tery on this s]>ot about the year 1342. His piety, and the honour conferred on him by the Patriarch of Constantinople, soon rendered him and his brotherhood famous. The princes of Moscow sought his counsel, and the oft-mentioned Dimitry of the Don was blessed by him before he set out for the battle of Kulikova. Two monks from this mo- nastery, Osliabia and Peresvet, fought by the side of the victorious prince, !ind one of them fell dead, together with bis Tartar adversary, in single combat. The intervention of St. Sergius on this memorable occasion was rewarded by large grants of lands, and thenceforth the monastery grew rich and powerful ; its abbot, liowever, the holy Serijjius, remaining, as before, simple, self-dtny- ing, and laborious, and cutting wood and fetching water to the last. His right to canonization was still further established by the visitation (recorded in the annals of the Russo- Greek Church) of the Holy Virgin, who ap- peared in his cell, accompanied by the apostles Peter and John, about the year 1388. He died in 1392. The Tartar hordes of Khan Edigei laid waste this holy habitation in 1408, and it was only re-established, together with the present Cathedral of the Trinity, in 1423. Thirty monasteries wx're subsequently attached to it, and much land, until, in 1764, St. Sergius was the i)ossessor as well as the patron of more than 100,000 male serfs. The most prominent portion of the history of the monastery is the siege, by 30,000 Poles, imder Sapieha and Lisofski, in 1608, which was only raised, after six- teen mouths, on the apjjroach of a largo Russian force. Later again, after the election of Michael Romanoff, Ladislaus of Poland, styling himself Tsar of Mos- covy, besieged the Troitsa Monastery once more, but he was repulsed by the brotherhood. AVlien the Poles were in possession of Moscow, the monks of St. Sergius rendered considerable assist- ance to their countrymen in the shai)e 218 Boute 7. — Troltsa. Sect. I. of supplies in bread and money. The most interesting fact, however, in the records of the Troitsa Monastery is, that it was the place of refuge on two occasions of Peter the Great and his brother John, when they fled from the insurgent Streltsi. Since then the re- pose of the monks has not been dis- turbed by political events. The French, in 1812, went half-way towards the monastery, but returned without the expected booty. The plague and the cholera Imve never ventured within tlie holy walls, which were founded in 1513 and tinished in 1517. They extend 4500 feet, and are from 30 to 50 feet high, with a thickness of 20 feet. Tiiey were put in order by Peter the Great, but their present appearance is due to a lati>r period. Eight towers form the angles ; one of them, of Gothic archi- tecture, is surmounted by an obelisk, terminating in a duck carved in stone, to connuemorate the fnct of Peter tlie Great having practised duck-shooting on a ncighl)0uring pond. There are 10 churches within the monasteiy. The most ancient is the Cathedral of the Trinity. The shrine of St. Sergius stands within it, weigh- ing 930 lbs. of pure silver. The relics of the saint nrv exposed to view. In the altar-screen, in a glass case, will be seen the statt" anil other ecclesiastical appurtenances of the patron. Two pietiu-es of the saint, painted on portions of his coffin, are suspended on the walls. Tiiat near tlie shrine was carried into battle by the Tsar Alexis and by Peter the Great, and the Emperor Alexander I. was blessed with it in 1812. On a silver plate at the back of tJie image are recorded the several military occa- sions at which it assisted. The inte- rior of the cathedral is replete with massive silver ornaments, and in the archbishop's stall is a representation of the Last Supper, of which the figures are of solid gold, with the exception of Judas, who is of brass. All the images are adorned with precious stones. The small chapel alongside was added in 1552, rebuilt in 1023, and again in 1779 and 1840. Next to this is a small chapel, erected over the sup[X)sed site of the cell in which the Holy Virgin appeared to St. Sergius. The large chundi, with 5 cupolas, was consc^cratt-d in 1585, and is called the Assmnption of the Virgin. The frescoes were painted in 1081. One of its altars was consecrated in 1609, during the roar of the Polish artillery, and devoted to prayer for deliverance from the seurvy, of which disease 3000 of the inmates of the monastery had already i)erished. The large two-headed eagle in wood comm<'morat(s the concealment of Peter the Great under the altar during the insurrection of the Streltsi. Otf the S.AV. angle of the church, in a chapel, is a well dug l>y St. Sergius, and discovered in 1G44, at a time when the monjistery was in great need of fresh water, lietween the Assumption and the belfry stands a monument erected in 1792, on which the princij)al events in the history of the monastery are re- corded. The fourth ehurch, "Tlie Dc- seent of the Holy (ihost," was founded, after the capture of Kazan, by the Tsar Ivan Vassilevitch in person. The tcfnib of INIaximus, a learned Greek, stands in a small chapel close by. The next church in imi>ortance is that of "Ser- gius Padonejski," with an innueusc. refectory and a gallery all round, built in 1092. The iron roof, added in 1740, after a lire, is of a very jK'Culiar me- chaidcal construction. Over the chmcli is a depository of nearly 4000 old books and jNISS., amongst the most renin rknblo of which is a copy of the Evangelists on parchment, attributed to the early I)art of the 13th cent. The heJfry near the Church of tlie Assumption was designed by i{astrelli, and tinished in 1709. It is remarkable for its height and architecture, and rises 290 ft. from the ground. The Ijell in the second tier weighs luarlv 05 tons. Of the manv other buildings within the walls of tlie monastery, we may mention the Palace, built by Peter I., now occupied by the Eccle- siastical Aciidemy, which alone, as the principal seat of priestly instruction, is well worthy of a visit. The learned anrinces, and a copy of the ' Evan- gelist ' of 1541. A picture by Tone), representing the baptism of the Kie- vites in the reign of Vladhnir, will likewise be shown. 2. Cathedral of Demetrius of Solun, within the Krendin. It was built 1194. The white sandstone which forms its walls is curiously carved with representations r)f animals, birds, &c. Having Ix^en restored by order of the Emperor Nicholas, it is one of the best specimens extant of Russo- Byzantine church architecture. Ono of the finest juonuments of civil archi- tecture of the same period will be found in the " Golden Gate " (Zolot} a Vorota), built in 1158 as a poifa trliimphdlis. The ancient ch. above it was destroyed during the Tartar in- vasion ; the present edifice is modern. The old earthern walls of the town may be partly traced. There are many fine buildings of modern date at Vladhnir, such as the Assembly House of the Nobility, with a fine hall, and a gymnasium with a good library. The city is celebrated for its fruit, particu- larly for its fine cherries. Many Veche or Wittenagemotes were held here in the earlier days of Russian history. The province is one of the richest in Russia for agricultural produce and manufactures. 149 m. Shuisko-Ivanofsko Stat. Buft*. At Novki, between these two stats., a branch line runs on to Shuya and Ivanovo, two important centres of the cotton industry. There is no hotel at either of those places, but as travellers will only go there on business, they will easily find accommoearance of this mart that the tra- veller will feel a little disappointment in meeting no gorgeous Asiatics, no Chinamen, no wild-looking savages, and no Esquimaux ; Persians, Arme- nians, and Tartars being a[)parently the only Asiatics present, and o»'en those in no very great numbers. The men from Bukhara or Khiva are after all in dress and appearance only Tar- tars. But it is not so much the types of the population as the extent and nature of the trade which the traveller should observe, for he here witnesses one of those rude, ancient forms of buying and selling which the introduc- tion of railways, and the establishment of banks and credit, must very soon render obsolete. The iron stored in the mile of shops where nothing but that metal is sold has been brought from Sil)eria at an immense expense for sale and distribution, perhaps within 100 miles of its place of production. Cus- tom obliges the producers to offer their goods at established markets, at cer- tain seasons of the year, involving a great loss of time in travelling, and adding to the price of the article. The sales being periodical and infrequent, dealers are forced to buy larger stocks than they otherwise would ; conse- quently they require 12 months' and sometimes 2 years' credit, which is of course also paid by the consumer. Pail ways have, however, not 3'et pre- judiced the operations of the fair, be- cause they do not extend farther E. than Nijni, and trade is very tenacious of old customs. Authentic records attest that mercantile gatherings were held at Nijni so early as 136G; and tra- dition points to a still earlier origin. Kazan, while an indeiiendent state, had a fair of its own, but ilussian merchants were prohil)ited from resorting to it by Jf)hn the Terrible. Another place of gathering was allotted to them on the banks of the Volga; but in 1041 a charter to a monastery dedicated to St. Macarius, and situated 71 m. below Nijni, removed the fair to that place. The monks of the monastery very cleverly made Nijni a place of religious as well as commercial resort, and levied taxes on the trade which they fostered. These were almost uninterruptedly in their hands until 1751, when the fair became the property of the State, and its revenues were farmed for about 150i!. In the reign of the Emperor Paul the farmer of the duties engaged to build a new bazaar, and to pay 4500/. a year into the Exchequer. Between 1097 and 1790 the trade of the place had increased in value from 12.000/. to 4,500,000/. In 1824 the fair was re- moved from the low site which it occupied at INIakarief to its present position. The bazaar, governor's house, and shops were erected by the govern- ment, which still levies about 8000/. a year to cover the expenses of construc- tions. 224 Boiite 8. — Nljni Novgorod : Fair. Sect. I. Itussla. Boute 8. — Nij'nl Novgorod : Fair. 225 The governor's house is tlie centre of the fair ; the lower floor of his residence is converted into a bazaar for the sale of manufactured goods and foncy articles, principally of European production, although the stalls of hardware from Tiila, of silks from IVrsia, of precious stones and various curiosities from lUildiara and other parts of Central Asia, and of geological specimens and cut stones from Siberia, make it in reality the cosmopolitan centre of the mart/ Travellers will be attracted by the goods oftlie Tartar, who pretends to owe allegiance to the Khan of Bukhara. Beware of talismans and turquoises that appear to bt; cheap ; they will j)robably be found cheaper and more; genuine at St. IVtersburg. The mala- chite and lapis-lazuli ornaments and other stones from Siberia are some- times goodinvestments ; but in buying lapis-lazuli be sure to rub the stone well on cloth, or some other material, to see if there are no white spots con- cealed with a preparation of wax and indigo. This precaution is necessary even at St. Petersburg. There is a stall held by a Russian for the sale of ornaments in gold and silviT, set with Siberian and I'ersian stones. Curious belts of silver may be purchased, but not without long bargaining. It is always safe to otier half the sum first asked, and to approach gradually and w ith caution to an agreement. Select, and inquire the price of, all the articles you intend to purchase before making any otier, for the seller, once ac(piainted with yom* system of bargaining, in- creases his demands in proportion for any other articles you may wish to purcliase. There is a very good restaurant under the governor's house, where an excellent dinner may be obtained. A boulevard extends from behind the oflicial residence, leading to the cathedral, the Tartar mnsque, and the Annenian church, which stand in laudable, tolerant juxtai)Osition. The shops along the boulevard are occupied by silversmiths, drai)ers, furriers, and drysalters. The plate and silver orna- ments are very curious and pretty. Travellers generally purchase some small articles as keepsakes. Old silver is sometimes to be picked up ; but in all these transactions it is necessary to have the assistance of a friend who understands the language, or that of an honest courier. The price of silver, however, is not so uncertain as that of other goods. Tin; hall-mark is repre- sented by the number 84. Behind these shops is the ''Chinese row," easily recognised by its Chinese archi- tecture. The tea-trade is not so flourisliing as formerly, since the re- moval of tlu; prohibition to import sea- Ijorne tea, which now stocks the market. The trade is now in a transition state, the sea-borne and Ihe land-carriage tea alternately triumphing. Much deix-nds upon the relative quantities ottered for sale ; the prices are sent down one year by an excessive imi)ortatif)n, and they rise the next from a short supply; but in the course of time Canton and water-carriage will prevail, notwith- standing the ill-founded prejudice against that description of tea. The Itussians, who are great tea-drinkers, are accustomed to the higher qualities of tea grown in the N. of China ; but these are quite as easily obtained from Canton as from Kiakhta, and the sea- carriage has no deteriorating cfiect whatever. The Kiakhta tea itself is brought by water from rerm without injury. There are some kinds of tea, however, which scarcely ever enter into the English trade, viz. yellow and brick tea, the former of a delicious fragrance and very pale, but injurious to the nerves if taken iVeipienlly ; it is handed round after dinner in lieu of cofiee. The brick tea is consumed by the Kalnmcks and Kirghizes of the Steppe. Specimensof these teas should be purchased by the travelk-r. The best yellow tea is about 35s. per pound, done up in Chinese boxes, which make very pretty presents. Tlie bazaar is surrounded by a small canal, for protection against tu*e, con- flagrations being of frequent occur- rence. The ground underneath is intersected by sewers or cloaca) of stone, which are entered by the small whitewashed towers so freipiently seen. These vaultetl passages aro f ^ i flushed several times a day by pumps, which draw the water from the adjoin- \ iug rivers. The sanitary precaution I is much to be commended, and must have cost a considerable outlay. But the bazaar built by the Emperor Alexander hiis too confined a space for the trade of Nijni. The t\iir now L ( extends far beyond, to the very banks '' ■ of tlie Volga and the Oka, with its rows \ of shops, its restaurants, and even its / theatre. The '" Siberian Line " skirts / the Volga, and consists of innumerable warehouses of tea, cotton, iron, rags, ^ &c. The wharves are well worthy of inspection, being quite 10 miles in i length. It will interest the traveller to watch the stiu-dy Tartar labourers unloading the mediteval-looking craft, laden with grain, water-melons, hides, wooden boxes, wine-skins from the Caucasus, madder and cotton from Bukhai-a, and with almost every other description of merchandize that the earth yields or industry produces. The Inige floating machines for towing up vessels are fast going out of use as the number of steam-tugs increases. There an; no fewer than 400 steamers now on the Volga, most of them having been built in England and in Belgium. Some have been brought down in pieces, and put together ; others have been skilfully piloted through the canals and rivers, which combine to form an uninterrupted fluviatile com- munication from one extremity of the empire to the other. It is an interest- ing fact that the first vessel of war ever built in Bussia was launched at Nijni by a company of merchants from Hol- stein, wiio obtained permission in tlie 17th cenly. to open a trade with Persia and India, by way of tlie Caspian. The vessel was called the Friedrich. The travels of Olearius were in connection with this undertaking. The outskirts of the f^iir are more interesting than its centre for observa- tion and study. The constant succes- sion of carts in long strings ; the crowds of labourers ; the knots of earnest-look- ing traders with long beards ; the itine- rant vendors of liquid refreshments and white rabbit-skins ; the greasy, slovenly monk collecting the kopecks of those who fear to withhold their charity lest their transactions be influenced by the Evil One ; the frequent beggars, plead- ing for the most part that they have been burnt out, and showing the most dreadful-looking sores as evidence of their veracity :— all these men and things attest the present importance of the Fair of Nijni and the immense business which is transacted there. Tiie sales and purchases represent the value of more than IG millions sterling, which pass through the hands of 150,000 to 200,000 traders, that being the average number of those who as- semble daily to exchange the produce of Europe for that of Asia. The bakers are bound to make daily returns of the quantity of bread which they sell, and it is in this manner that a rough esti- mate of the daily population is made. Great quantities of dried fish are sold at Nijni. The annual value of the sturgeon, alone, taken in the Volga is estimated at 2i millions of roubles, and above 30,000 barrels of Caviar have been despatched from Astrakhan in a single year. Two other fairs are held at Nijni Novgorod, but they are very Httle visited by foreigners. The one, held in January, on the ice, at the mouth of the Oka, is devoted to the selling and buying of wooden wares, such as toys and boxes. Great numbers come in on this occasion from the neighbour- ing villages. In January, 18G4, the ice on which the booths and inns were constructed gave way, and a consider- able number of men, women, children, and horses miserably perished by drowning. The other fair, held on the Gth July (n.s.), is for the sale of horses. The traveller may be inclined to enter some of the booths devoted to eating and drinking, where large masses of the population may be seen herded together, intent on some of the dishes described under the head of "Cuisine and Restaurants;" but he will probably content himself with the view from the tower and the terrace, with a rapid drive to the wharves and warehouses, and a saunter in the ba- zaar, where some small purchases may I be effected. 22G Boiite 8. — Murom. Sect. I. Tiussia. Bonte 8. — Elafma — Kasimof. 227 The more inquisitive traveller will, however, ask for the " Arnieiiian Kit- chen" or Restaurant, wliere he will get an exceedingly good and cheap dinner, of which the menu will be : — 1, Chihotma or soup ; 2, Pillaio ; 3, ShishWi; or small pieces of mutton deliciously fried ; 4, Lull-Kohal ; and 5, Dolmay meat served in vine-leaves. A very sound wine, " Chichir," com- pletes the repast. Excellent horse- flesh is to be had at Hk; Tartar lies- taurant in the same neighbourhood. EXCURSTOX UP THE OKA TO MURO^I, ELAT3IA, AND KASIMOF. Steamers leave Nijni 3 times a week for Elatma, on the Oka, one of the most important rivers in llussia (its length being 1400 v.), performing the voyage up stream in about 30 hrs., and returning to Nijni in about 30 hrs. The days are not given here for fear of changes. Inquire at the oilices of the "Samolet Sttam-ship Company" at Nijid. Leaving Nijni Novgorod at 11 A.M., tlie boat will be at daybreak abreast of Pavlovo, a large village, of which the population is exclusively occupied in the production of cutlery, locks, &c. The scissors and knives of Favlovo are superior in (juality to those of Tula. Its locks, varying in j)rice from 2 cop. to 20 r., are sold over llussia, and partly exported to Asia. A visit to this diminutive Sheffield will prove of great interest to the traveller who is studying the commercial development of Russia. Murom will be reached in about 24 hrs. after leaving Nijni. This is a famous old town of 10,000 Inhab. It is supposed to have been founded by a Finnish tribe, which bore the same name, and which inhabited the l)anks of the Oka in the 9th centy. It be- came the seat of a principality in the 1 1th centy., under Gleb, son of St. Wla- dimir, and who reigned there until tho year 101 G. The principality then be- came sulyect to the Princes of Cherni- goft', Rostof, and Riazan, and in 1353 to the principality of Wladimir. At last it was annexed to the principality or grand duchy of Moscow. It has been frequently devastated — in 1087 by the liolgars, in 1006 by Isiaslav, son of Wladimir Monomachus, and thrice in the 13th centy. by the Tar- tars ; while in the 17th centy. entire villages of fishermen were rooted out by the Poles. The old Kremlin walls were taken down in the last centy. Of the 14 chm-ches in Miu'om the most remarkable are : — 1, The Cathedral of the Nativity, built about 1170, on tho hill of the Yoevods, alx)ve the Oka. The founder, I^rince George of IVIurom, and Prince David, with his consort lOujihro.sine (a.i>. 1228), are buried within it. A fair is held round this cathedral on the 2r)th June (O.S.'. 2, The Ch. of Our I.ady of Kazan, built iu the reign of John the Terrible ; 3, The Nicologorod Ch., founded in the 17th centy. ; 4, The Ch. of the Iiesurrection, built about KJoO ; and 5, The Ch. of Cosmo and Uamian, at- tributed to the 14th centy.* There are 2 mo)iastcries and 1 convent at I\Iurom : — 1, Monastery of the Transfiguration, known to have existed in the lltli centy. The son of AVladimir ]Monoma- chus, killed in lOUG, was originally buried here, but his remains were re- moved later to the Cathedral of St. So- pliia in Novgorod, 2, ^Monastery of the Anniuwitition. On its present site stood a ch. erected in the 12th centy., and which was restored in the 13th centy. In 1553 John the Terrible, passing through ]Murom on his way to the conquest of Kazan, swore on tho tombs of the Princes of Murom, to build here a monastery in the event of his safe return. Its foundations wero accordingly laid in 1555, and in 1503 the monastery and its ch. were com- pleted. The holy relics of Prince C(»iistantine of Murom, and of his sons ^Michael and Theodore, are exhibited * One of these clmrclics fell in with a cra^U early in 186s, but will be restored. ] in a silver shrine. The Convent of the Trinity was founded in 1042. Trade— Exen iu the 10th and 11th cents. Murom was a place of great trade, visited by the Bolgars, and by merchants from Cheniigoti', Smolensk, Kief, Riazan, and even by Greek traders from the Crimea. Its dense and extensive woods were famed for their honey, and for the beasts of the chase that dwelt within them. They were also infested by bands of robbers, whose deeds are still told in nurtcry tales. Tlie position of IMurom, on the borders of a nianulaeturing distriet, on one side, and on those of a rich agricul- tural zone on the other, has greatly contributed to its i)resent i)rosperity. There is a great trade at jNIurom in wheat, tiax, linseed, and tunber. In 1801 the town boasted of 10 linen manu- factories, which produced goods of the value of half a million of roubles. It was formerly celebrated for its leather, but this industry is now on the de- cline. There are also 23 flour-mills in the neighbourhood of the town. Their produce is principally carried to Rybinsk on the Volga. Markets are held on Saturdays, and are more par- ticularly animated in winter, when 3000 to 5000 sledge-loads of corn are brought into the town for sale. Im- mense quantities of flsh are caught at Murom, as well as at other places on the Oka. The Vijlsounslci iron-works are situated on the opposite bank of the river at about a day's journey from 3Iurom. They are worked by an English company, under the superin- tendence of a resident English director. Large quantities of cast iron and rails are produced here, the ore being raised on the estate, which has been leased to the company by the Crown for a cer- tain number of years. It is needless to say that the 'English or American traveller, wishing to see something of the mineral wealth of Russia, will meet with the greatest attention at Vyksa. After passing a village called Dos- chaty, of which there is nothing to be said, the steamer will reach the ut- most point at which the Oka is navigable, except by flat barges. This is Elatma. Pop. 7000. It stands on the 1. bank of the river, and is first mentioned in 1381, although it is sup- posed to have been founded by the Mestchera and Mordva tribes (vide liiazan). It was purchased l)y the principality of Moscow from its Triuce, Alexander Unkovitch, of the Mest- chera tribe, from whom are probably descended the present numerous Princes Mcstchersky of Russia. In the centre of the town is a square, lx)rdered by an ancient ditch. A mo- nastery formerly stood there. The town carries on a small trade in grain, cattle, tallow, &c. Leaving the steamer here, the traveller must en- gage a peasant's cart and '' troika " to take him to Kasimof. — The town of Kasimof (Pop. 11,000), on the 1. bank of the Oka, 130 V. E.S.E. front Riazan, is a place of very great trade, being in the centre of the water communication between Moscow and Nijni Novgorod, and on the high road from Astrakhan to Ixith those cities. The corn of Tambt)f and Penza is ln'ought there iu large quantities for distribution over the less fertile parts of the provinces of Riazan and Wladintir, and the annual amouitt of business done is estimated at two and a half millions. Tlie in- habitants of Kasimof are very indus- trious, and have such a high reputation for honesty that most of the waiters ill the hotels at St. Petersburg and Moscow are " Kasimof Tartars." The principal industry of the town is the tanning of hides and the dressing of sheepskins. The bells of Kasimof are also much loved by the yamstcliiks or por-tilions throughout Russia. The town is remarkable as having been the seat of a small Tartar king- dom which existed until 1007. It was given by Basil the Dark to Kasim, a Tartar who emigrated to Russia in 1440, and became the ally of the sove- reign of ]\Ioscow. The horde of Kasimof di.l M 3 good 228 Boide 9. — The Volga. Sect. I. Russia. Route 0. — Bijh Insh — Yaroslaf. 229 \-i SGi-vice during the wars of the princes of ^Moscow with tlic Tartars, Novgo- rodiaus, Livonians, and Toles. Its Tsars assisted John the Terrible in the capture of Kazan, 1552. The last Tartar ruler became a Christian and died in 1(JG7, when his small dominions were incorporated with Russia. Vvitr the Great caused a considerable portion of the population to be removed to Voronej, wlure they were attached to the dockyards. The moxque, supposed to liave "been built by Kasim, is still extant, but tlie m/j/an/, iittributtd to the same nge, was rebuilt in the 18th century. There is a maiisoJeitm nenr tiie mosque, erected by Shall Ali in 1555, and another outside the town, built in 1010, by the Tsarevitch Orslan. Inscriptions prove the tombs within it to be those of ancient Tsars of Kasimof. There is no trace of their old palace, and the foundations of the palace of Seid Burkhan, seen by Pallas, liave been levelled to the ground by the present proprietor of the soil. There is a conirut in the town, but the date of its establishment is unknown. The church within it was built 1715. Instead of returning to Nijni Nov- gorod, travellers can post from Kasimof to Riazan (00 m.), and take rail there either southwards or for Moscow. ROUTE 9. VOLGA : TVER TO ASTRAKHAN. (For journey to Tver and description of the town, see Rte. G.) Ptolemy and other ancient geogra- phers had little accurate knowledge respecting the Volga, and called it the Great River. Its classical name was Rlia. In remote times it was the main artery of comnumieation be- tween Central Asia and the Black Sea. The Scythians and Sarmatians were anciently re|>uled as inhaljiting its banks, the Huns, Khazars. and Bolgars subsequently formed powerful states on it ; but the Throne of Russia having been removed to Vladimir, the Rus- sians began to possess themselves of the course of the river. Nijni Nov- gorod was founded on it in the 13tli cent. The Russian provinces suffered mucli from the inioads of the Tartars of the kingdom of Kazan. The latter became the tributaries of John III., and were finally incorporated by John the Terrible, who also seized the Tartar kingdom of Astrakhan, and thus ob- tained possession of the entu-e cctursc of the Volga. But its navigation was long rendered unsafe by pii-ates. All the popular legends of the Volga are connected with deeds of plunder and bloodshed by the i)opulation along its banks. The rebels Stenka Razin and I'ugachef were the last to disturb its tranquillity, and it is now a peaceful highway of commerce, uniting, by means of its affluents and with the assistance of several artificial canals, the Caspian with the AVhite Sea and the Baltic. The Volga rises in some small lakes about 47 m. S.W. of Valdai. At Tver, where it first becomes navigable by small steamers, it acquires a breadth of 100 fathoms, and a depth of alxnit IHt. 1. Boats leave Tver daily for Ya- roslaf. The following towns ore passed : — Korehef, 57 m. from Tver. Kuliazin, 120 m. from Tver. Uc.LiTCH, 125 m. from Tver. 11,000 Inhab. The latter is a town of considerable historical interest. The steamer stops here some hours. It is supiwsed to have been founded alwut a.d. 950. It was long governed by princes from h I <1 Wladimir. In 1237 the inhabitants submitted to the Tartars, who subse- quently ravaged it during a quan-el with its prince. The town continued the scene of an incessant internecine war between rival princes, imtil John III. annexed it to Moscow. On the death of John the Terrible, in 1584, the Council of Boyars persecuted the family of his last consort, to w^honi he was married in 1580. She was exiled, with her son Dimitry (or Demetrius), to Uglitch, where the young prince was assassinated (vide Cath. of As- sumption). Prince Gustavus, son of Eric Kuig of Sweden, exiled from his country, was invited to Uglitch by the Tsar Boris Godunoff, who caused him to be imprisoned in the fortress of that town in IGll, on his refusal to maiTy his daughter. He was later removed to Yaroslaf and then to Kashin, where he died. On the death of Boris, the town was treacherously surrendered to the Poles by a citizen, when 20,000 of its inhabitants are stated to have been massacred and burnt in a huge bonfire. The monasteries on that occa- sion were pillaged of all their treasures. Fires and inundations in the 18th cent, complete the list of misfortunes to which the town has been a prey. The palace of young Demetrius, built in 14G2, stands in the principal squai-e of the town. It has been restored. Myshl'in, 1G8 m. from Tver. Moloqa, 203 m. from Tver. The Tikhviii canal system begins here. Rybinsk, 223 ni. from Tver, Pop. 10,500, at the confiuence of the Volga and Sheksna. Although only made a town in 1778, Rybinsk is one of the most important commercial centres of the empire, especially for grain. The INIariinsk canal system begins here. By it the grain and tallow from the provinces along the lower course of the river, are carried to St. Petersburg. The go<)ds are transshipped in summer, at Rybinsk, into smaller vessels for the upper part of the Volga and the several fiuvlatilc systems, emiiloying 100,000 labourers. 4000 to ,5000 vessels arrive there yearly, with cargoes valued at about 4,000,000?. ; and 7000 to 8000 leave it with goods to the amount of 5J millions sterling. Great detention is" caused by the accumulation of so much shipping ; and although the grain reaches Rybinsk about the end of April or the beginning of May (O.S.), it is seldom delivered at St. Petersburg before June or July. A railway is much needed to accelerate and cheapen the transport of such immense stores. There are two hotels at Rybinsk, frequented by merchants. Travellers will do well to stay a day here, in order to acquire a proper appreciation of the immense resources of the Rus- sian empire. Romauoff-Borhorjlehsl:, 267 m. from Tver. 24 m. beyond is ;, Yaroslaf, Pop. 32,000, at confluence of Volga and Kotorosl, founded be- tween 1025 and 103G ; burnt by the Tartars in 1237 ; pillaged by pirates in 1371 ; and constantly embroiled in the wars of the princes. * The English mer- chants had a factory here in the IGth centy., and laid the foundation of the commercial prosperity of the town, which deals principally in grain and iron. There is a large and celebrated linen manufactoiT here, estab. 1722. IMniczek (Mnishek) Marina, the wife of first of the many pretenders, was killed here in 1G06. Yaroslaf sur- rendered to the Poles in 1G08, who were, however, shortly after driven out. In 1G12 and 1G17 it was a point of gathering for the patriots under Po- jarski and Minin. Biren, Duke of Courland, lived here in exile with his family between 1742 and 17G1, and Prince Peter of Oldenbui-g was born in the town. There are 77 churches in Yaro- slaf. The chief of these is the Cath. of the Assumption, originally built in 1215. The present edifice, however, dates from 164G. The military stand- ards of the militia raised in 1812, and 1853-1856, are kept in this church. The best hotel is in Pastukhof s house, where a table-d'hote is kept. There will soon be a railroad hence to Moscow. 2. There are no places of importance between Y'aroslaf and 230 Boiite 9. — Kostroma. Sect. I. Russia. Iloule 9. — Kazan, 231 KosTUOMA (20,000 Inhab.), 340 m. from Tver. Hotels: "London" and "Kostroma." Kostroma was built in 1152 by George, surnamcd Dolgoruki (Longi- tharm'), son of Vladimir Monomaclius. In 1271 Novgorod acknowlodged tlie authority of the Prince of Kostroma, which then became the capital of Ihls^^ia for about six years. Dimitry of the Don fled to this town on the invasion of Tokhtamysh (1382). The plague iind a dreadful famine, in 1420 and 1422, reduced the i)opulntion, on which the Tartars had already inllieted much sulfering. The town submittetanc(.' from Kostroma is a Tartar village, founded in the early part of the 10th centy. by Nogai Tar- tars, who still retain their nationality strongly. The women make viry pretty lace. The steamer stops at Pits, a small town founded in 1-iOO. There is a very large linen manut\ictory here, and a considerable trade in gr.iin and hardware (in the shape of axes). Kiiiei- Iniilding, and partly in si)iuning Hax. Tiie next stations before Nijni are Katidihi, a famous place for leather and the skins of cats, of which 40,000 to 50,000 are annually dressed ; Gonxhts, where Alexaiuler Nevski died, 12G3; and Balahhna, frecpiently inundated in sj>ring, where a fleet intended tor the sea of Azof was built in 1GI)5. For NijNi-XovGuiioD, set description in Rte. 8. 4. XiJNi-N(jVG0R0D TO Kazan. — At Nijni the traveller will embark in a larger boat. The best steamers belong to the " Volga " Comi)any, but those of the •' Samolct " Company are very good. The hanks of the river become more picturesque at Nijni, where the Volga has a breadth of two-thirds of a mile. Maharief, 72 m. from Nijni. The fair was formerlv held here. Vasil, 108 m., founded 1523. Kozmodemiansk, 140 m. from Kazan, Pop. 5000. Chebohsary, one of the prettiest situated towns on the Volga, with an ancient monastery and leaning tower. Svkijsk, 25 m. — Most of these small towns were founded by John the Ter- rible during his expedition to Kazan. Kazan, 794 m. from Tver, Pop. 00,000. Founded in 13th or 14th centy. The Tartar kingdom of Kazan was established 1438, after the town had been j)artially deserted by its original Mongol iidiabitants. The Tartars were in constant conflict with the Russians at Nijni- Novgorod, who, with the assistiince of the Gmiid Duke of Moscow, frequently marched upon Kazan, but without any signal success, until John the Terrible took it, in 1552, with an army of 150,000 men. The Tartar Tsar Edigei was made prisoner, and all his troops were slain. Kazan was reduced to ashes by Puga- chef in 1774. In 1815 and 1842 it was almost entirely burnt down. The town stands about 5 m. from the banks of the river. Hotels: "Odessa" and Resanofs. Best dinners at Commonen's restaurant in Voskresensk-street. Si[fhts. — 1. The Kremlin, attributed to 15th centy. 2. Within its walls is a cathedral,' built 1502. 3. Sumbeki, a jjyramidal tower, 244 ft. in height, probably built in reign of Empress Anne. John the Terrible caused every building within the Kremlin to be de- stroyed, and even the tombs of the Tartar sovereigns to be levelled with the ground. It is therefore doubt- ful that this tower is a remnant of Mongol architecture. 4. The Bogoro- ditsky Convent, near the Krendin, was built 1579, to receive the miraculous image of " Our Lady of Kazan,'" dis- covered unscathed in the ashes of a conflagration. The church, which now contains this venerated image, was completed about 1810. The diamond crown on the head of the Virgin was presented by Cath. II. 5. At a mile from tlie town is a monument over the remuina of those who fell at the siege ] of Kazan, erected 1823. 0. The Ad- miralty was founded, in 1718, by Peter the Great, who built a flotilla there for the Volga and Caspian. The barge in which Catherine made lier celebrated progress down the Volga is shown here. 7. The Univeiisity, founded 1804, consists of four faculties — his- tory, physics, jurisprudence, and medi- cine ; frecjuented by about 450 students. I'rincipal library, 00,000 vols. State contribution, 1805, 33,0U0Z. An Eng- lish professor is attached to it. There are 120 factories of difterent kinds at Kazan. Soap and stearine works are the most important. Next to them are the tanneries, for which the town is widely celebrated. The steamer stays here long enough for travellers to inspect the town, which is full of life and animation. Tiie Tartar population (7000), with their quaint costumes, impart an Eastern appearance. Education is very mucdi developed among them, a school being attached to every mosque. Travellers visiting Nijni should not fail to run down to Kazan, even if they are un- able to proceed to Astrakhan. The various races inhabiting the banks of the Volga aflbrd a most interesting study. The most curious of these are the Mordva, the Chuvashi, and the Cheremissi, of Finnish and Mongolian origin. The trip only occupies 24 hours there and 29 hours back. 5. Kazan to Simbirsk and Saratoff. — At about 53 m. below Kazan, the Kama river, 1100 m. in length, falls into the Volga, which is here 4000 fathoms broad. The Kama is the great artery of communication with Siberia. It is navigated by about 1700 vessels, besides rafts, which give occupation to 32,000 men. The goods brought by it to Nijni are valued at 2\ millions sterling, principally salt from Perm, iron, and other metals. (17roke out into rebellion in 1C05, in favour of the first Pretender. They bound the archbishop hand and foot, and carried him ignominiously to Mos- cow. INIarina, the wife of the false Dimitry, seized the town in 1(108, at tho head of a largo force of rebel Cossacks. In IGGO the Tartars sur- rounded Astrakhan, but were soon driven away, with a loss of 10,000 men. The Tsar Alexis directed his attention towards the commercial im- portance of the town, and entered into corresiX)ndence with the Shah of Persia, with a view to the establishment of a trade in silk and other produce. In that reign the Duke of Ilolstein ob- tained permission, through his embassy (of which the well-known Olearius was secretary), to trade with the countries beyond the Casj^ian, and to build ships on it. The rel:)ellion of Stenka Razhi, in 1GG5, checked the Eussia-. Boute 9. — AstraJchan, 233 new trade. By the treachery of its defenders, Astrakhan was seized by him in 1G70. Its voevod and arch- bishop were thrown down a precipice ; the latter after having been divested of his pontifical robes, and half-roasted. The town was retaken in 1071, and Stenka was executed and (juartered at Mo.scow. Another rebellion broke out in 1705, but was speedilv suppressed. In 1722 Peter the Great came to Astrakhan with a large force, when he took Gilian, Derbent, P>akii, and other places on the Caspian. Companies were soon after formed to trado with Khiva, Bukhara, Persia, and India. In 1734 an English company oljtained the privilege of trading on the Caspian, but it suftered a loss of 80,000^. on the death of Nadir Shah of l*ersia, and renounced the undertaking. After varying success, the Caspian trade is now in a flourishing condition, and employs about l.SOO vessels. The imports in ISGO amounted to about 500,0007., and the exports to 800.000/. Fishing is very largely pursued on the Caspian. A small flotilla is stationed on it. The sidits are : 1. The Krem- lin, built about 1582. 2. The Cath. of the Assumption, constructed 1G98, containing many ecclesiastical relics. i). IMuseum. 4. Gallery of portraits of archbishops of Astrakhan. 5. Ad- miralty, built 1722, and two boats used by Peter the Great. 6. Library. From Astrakhan the enterprising traveller may take steamer to Baku, and return by way of Persia and the Caucasus (vide Rte. 20). A trip to Astrabad should in any case be made. The voyage from Tver to Nijni by steamer generally occupies 2^ to 3 days, and that from Xijni-Xovgorod to Astraklian G days. The steamers do not go on during the night, and stop frequently to take in wood. There is every comfort on board, and excellent provisions. Some of the skippers speak English, and nearly all some other European language l3esides their o^vn. The fare from Tver to Nijni, exclusive of living, is about 3Z. ; and from Nijni to Astrakhan about 51. % SECTION II.— SOUTH RUSSIA AND CEIMEA, CAUCASUS AND SIBERIA. INTKODUCTION. KOUTES TO ODESSA AND SOUTH OF RUSSIA. The traveller will see by the map that there are several routes to Odessa, viz : — By Water. — 1. From London to Odessa. English steamers from the London Docks (ai)ply to Messrs. Smith, Sundius, and Co., City), and the 2)ackets of the liiissian Steam Xavigation Companj^ maintain a constant communication with Odessa by way of the Mediterranean. 2. From Constantinople to Odessa, by Paissian Steam Navigation Com- ]-)any's packets, leaving every week. Fares, 28 rs. and 18 rs. Passage 30 to 40 hrs. 3. From Vienna down the Danube to Galatz in Austrian boats. Travel- lers may proceed all the distance to Galatz by boat, or go by rail from Vienna to Bazias, and take tlie steamer which left Vienna the previous day. The sanie ticket and lare for both routes. The boats of the Austrian and Piussian Companies correspond, so that travellers are not delayed at Galatz. As a rule, the boats of the liussian Steam Navigation Company are in every way to be recommended. By Land. — 1. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lembcrg, Czcrnowitz, and Kishenef. Pte. 10. 2. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lemberg, Brody, Volochisk (on Russian frontier). Bar, and Balta (railway in construction). Pte. 11. 3. Piga or St. Petersburg to Odessa, by DUnaburg, Witebsk, Orel, and Kief. Pte. 12. 4. Moscow to Odessa, by Tula, Orel, Kursk, Kharkoff, Poltava, Kremen- chuk, Elizavetgrad, and Balta. Pte. 13. The following is a description of the several routes by land. Before proceeding by any of them travellers should inquire how far the railways in construction have been pushed on and opened. ROUTES. -*o*~ [ rue names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described.] ROUTE , TAfJE 10. ]Jerlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lcniberi?, Czernowitz, and Kiahenef 23G 11. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lcmberg, Brody, Volo- c/i/.s7.-, i>'«/-, and Balta .. 237 12. Kiga or St. Petersburg to Odessa, by Diinaburg, Wl- tebsl:, Orel, and Kief. — tlie Soutli c.f Kussia . . ..238 13. IMoseow to Odessa, by Tula, Orel, Kursk, Kharkoff, Pol- tava, Kremenchuk, EUza- vefgrad, and Haifa .. .. 253 14. Moscow to Voroncj, by Tlla- zan, Jliajsk, and Kfclof. Branch lines to Morshansk ami Elets 2G4 15. St. Petersburg, IMoseow, or Riga, to Taganrog and Eostof (Sea of Azof), by Kharkof 270 IG. Odessa to the Crimea ovcr- PtOUTE 10. RERUN OR VIEXXA TO ODESSA, BY LEM15ERG, CZERNOWITZ, AND KISIIENEF. From Vienna by rail to Lemberg and Czernowitz in Austrian (ialicia. (Vide Handbook for Soulh Gerniantj.) Omnibus from Czernowitz to Novo- selitsa ; thence by post either to Kishenef or Tiraspol, according to con- dition of the railway, which will be completed between Odessa and Kishe- nef in 1870. NovosELiTSA, Iiussian villngc in prov. of Bessarabia, on frontier of Aus- tria, and also on frontier of Moldavia, on river Pruth. Pop. 2000. Hotel not as good as the one at Czernowitz, where travellers will prefer to stop. This village is sujiposed to have Ixicn founded in the IGthcenty. by the Cossacks, who came imder their Het- 319 ROUTE PAGE land, by Nikolaef and Kherson 273 17. Odessa to the Crimea Ijy sea : Eiipatoria to Kertch, and excursions through the Crimea 277 18. Kevtch to Tsaritsin on the Volga, by 7?o8/o/ .. .. 317 10. Hostoi' io Nm-ocherkash .. 318 20. London to Tijlis, by Constan- tinople — The Caucasus .. 21. Tiflis to Teheran, by Ararat and Tahreez 323 22. Tiflis to Teheran, by Baku or liCnkoran, and Besht or Astrabad, on the Caspian 325 23. Lenkoran to Tehera:i, by land, via Besld .. .. 32G 24. London to Persia, by way of St. Petersburg 328 25. London to Pekin, via St. Petersburg, Kiakhta, and Mongolia 328 man Svirgofski to assist the AValla- chians agninst the Turks. There is a consideral)le trade at Novoselitsa, par- ticularly in timber, which, after being floated down the Pruth, is carried over- land to the Dniester. In 18(jl goods of the value of 1 \ million of roubles were imported through its Custom- house. Travellers must here obtain an order for post-horses, and either purchase or hire a tarjintass, the vehicle best suited to the country. The charge for posting is 2i cop. i)er verst for each horse. Tho distance from Novoselitsa to Kishenef is 27G v., from the latter tfnvn to Tii-aspol OG v., and thence to Odessa bv railway, now open, the distance is liO v. The towns through which the tra- veller will pass on this route are : — BiELTSi, 120 V. from Kishenef. Pop. 7000, on river Beut. There is a great Russia. Boute 11. — Beiiin to Odessa. 237 trade here in cattle, of which 150,000 head are annually sold for Poland, Austria, Moldavia, Wallachia, and Prussia. It comes from the provinces of Kherson, Taurida, Podolia, Vol- hynia, and Kief. There is also a con- siderable business in grain. Orgeiu.f, 41 V. from Kishenef. l*op. 5700. On left bank of river Bent. Until 1812 it belonged to the Turks, and was the residence ( f the Sirdars who governed the northern part of the present province of Bess- ar.djia. The trade of the town is small, but a considerable amount of smug- gling is carried on rid Kishenef. Kishenef, GO v. from Tiraspol. I'op. 04,000. Chief town of Bess- arabia, on river Byka. A small town existed on the site of Kishenef so far Ijack as tho 0th centy. It is mentioned in a charter dated 1420, but in the 17th centy. it was de- stroyed by the Tartars. In 1812 it l»assed from INIoldavia to Russia. At that time it belonged to the monastery of the Holy Sepulchre. A Bussian metropolitan resides there since 1813. It is the centre of a very considerable trade in tallow, wool, wheat, hides, &c., carried hence to Odessa or to Austria via Novoselitsa. The principal mar- ket-days are Mondays and Fridays. In spring large quantities of cattle are sold in the market, seldom less than 3000 head, at about 20 roubles apiece. The iidiabitants are nmch engaged in cultivating fruit, vegetables, and the tol)acco-plant. Large quantities of prunes, grown principally by I^id- garians, are produced at Kishenef. if the railway is not open so far, the tra- veller will have to post through Bendery (Pop. 22,000), a fortress town, ,)Sh v. from Kishenef, on the right bank of the Dniester. The Cienoese had a settlement here in the 12th centy. ; by the INIoldavians it was called Tigin, and its present name was given by the Turks in tho latter part of the 14th centy. In 170i», after the battle of Poltava, Charles XII. established his camp here, and, calling it New Stockholm, defended himself aganist the Turks until 1711. The town has been taken by tho Russians 3 times, viz. in 1770, 1789, and in 1 80G. It was only annexed to Russia by the Treaty of Bucharest, 1812. The fortress is separated from the town by a square, on which is a mound called after Suworof. Tradition says that Charles XII. and Mazeppa reconnoitred the country beyond the Dnieper from its smnmit. Near the E. angle of the fortress is an ancient castle, on the Dniester. There is a considerable trade in wheat, wine, wool, cattle, tallow, and particularly in timber, floated down the Dniester. Large quantities of goods are unloaded here from boats, and carried overland to Odessa and Jassy. Tiraspol, 110 v. from Odessa in prov. of Kherson. Pop. 10,000. On left bank of Dniester. The fortress of Tiraspol is now dismantled. Trade inconsiderable. Gardening is the prin- cipal occupation of the inhabitants. Hence the railwav is open to Odessa.— F/(/e*Rte. 12. ROUTE 11. BERLIN OR VIENNA TO ODESSA, BY LEM- BERG, BRODY, VOLOCHISK, BAR, AND BALTA. The railway from Volochisk to Balta will be ready in 1870. Until it is completed we need only give the following short sketch of the route. VoLOeiiiSK, townlet in prov. of Volhynia, on river Sbrutcha. Pop. 2500. Small trade with Austria. Bar, a small town in prov. of Podolia, on the banks of the Rov, an affluent of the Bug. Pop. 8000. In 1452 this town, then called Rov, was destroyed by the Tartars. Soon after, Queen Bona Sforza, consort of Sigis- niund I. of Poland, rebuilt the town, built a castle, and gave both the town and the castle the present name of Bar, after Bari in Italy. In the 17th centy. 238 Boute 1%—Polotsh Sect. II. the castle was restored l^y the Tletnian Stanislaus Kone9polski. In 1G48, and again in 1G51, it was taken by the ('ossaoks, but in 1G72 it fell to the Turks, and was onlv restored to the roles in 1099. The Polish Confedera- tion of Bar is frequently mentioned in history as having Ixien fornu-d in 17G8, three years after which Bar was taken by the Russians, but, having been again restored to Poland, it formed jiart of the Voevodship of Po- dolia until the i)artition of Poland in 1793, when it was transferred to Kussia. The Jesuits established a college there in 1693, and the building is now de- voted to the purposes of a school. Ther(> are 3 chs. and a monastery of tlie llusso-Greek faith, and 1 liomnn Catholic ch. Eleven fairs are held during the year, but the transactions are not considerable. (For journey from Bar to Odessa via Balta vide next route.) IIOUTE 12. mCA OR ST. I'ETKRSBURG TO ODESSA, 15Y DiJNABUUG, WITEBSK, OREL, AND KIEF. For journey from Riga to Diinaburg vide Rle. 4. For journey from St. Petersburg to Diinaburg vide lUe. 1. From Diinaburg the journey will be continued as follows : — Drissa, 174 v. from Witebsk, at the confluence of the Drissa with the W. Dvina. Pop. 2000. A fortifica- tion existed at Drissa in the 14th centy., when it was destroyed by the Prince of Polotsk. In loG") Drissa was occupied by the Russians, but Stephen Batory restored it to I*oland, to which it belonged until the annexa- tion of White Russia (or tlie i)resent provinces of Witebsk and Mohilef), to Russia Proper. During the war of 1812, the Russian General Barclay de Tolly retreated before the French to Drissa, and established an entrenched camp tiiere, which he abandoned, how- ever, on the 18th (30th) July. There is a large trade here with Riga in flax and other produce. Polotsk, 5th stat., 150 v. from Diinaburg. Pop. 12.000. On river Western Dvina. History. — The liistory of Polotsk is that of the whole of the country lying along the course of the Dvina, viz. of a considerable part of White Ru.ssia. Its foundation is attributeil, c>n the faith of Iceland Sagas, to the 1st centy. after Christ. According to the Chronicle of Nestor, Polotsk, with some slight variations in the name, existed prior to the arrival of the Norman jjrinces, Rurik, Sineus, and Truvor. The authentic and eventful history of the town begins in 8G4, when I'olotsk was one of the j)rincipal colonies in the country of the Krevitchi. At his death Truvor gave Polotsk to one of his followers, and, in 980, chronicles speak of it as belonging to an indei)en- dent Prince, Rogvolod, a Northman. The ]>TOU(l refusal of his daughter liognedii to marry Vladimir Prince of Novgorod caused the downfall of Polotsk, for Wladimir came there with a large army, and, putting Rogvolod and his sons to death, carried Rognetla away as his wife. Annexed to the jmncipality of Kief, when Wladimir, afterwards cano- nized, succeeded to that throne, it became the portion of Isiaslaf, son of St. AVladimir l)y Rogneda. Its ex- istence as an independent princi- l)aHty was frecjuently menaced l>v tlie otlier descendants of Wladimir between 980 and 1129, when the; Prince of Kief succeeded in taking possession of it. But the town and province of Polotsk continuetl to have many enemies— the Pskovites, the JA- voiuan knights, and the Lithuanians, who wrested the principality from each other by turns. A treaty be- tween the I'rince of Smolensk and Riga in 1228 gave it to the fiormer, ancl in 1235 it was conquered by Rin- holdt, a Lithuanian i)rince. During the internecine war that followed on the death of Mindovgus, Grand Duke Russia. Boute 12.— Witebsk 239 of Lithuania, Polotsk was sold to the Church of Riga, but it was purchased agj\in l)y the Lithuanians in 1307. Its ])rivileges were then gradually assimi- lated to those of other provincial towns in Lithuania, and in 1498 the law of ]Magdel>urg superseded the Lithuanian ancfRussian laws under which Polotsk had been previously governed. The law of I^Iagdeburg and other privi- leges of Polotsk were confirmed by successive grand dukes of Lithuania and kings of Poland between 1510 and 1G34. The development of the new institutions was, however, frequently retarded by danger from without. In 1500 and 1502 the Russians advanced as far as Polotsk, laying waste the country around them. Alexander, Grand Duke of Lithuania, hastened to put the castle in a state of defence, Init a truce saved the town. In 1507 the Russians once more entered the province of Polotsk, and again with- drew with a^ promise to leave it un- molested in future. In 1511 they returned and spread destruction around them, and in 1515 and 1518 they laid siege to the town, but without success, for'^the fortifications havn and set it on fire. The Poles having subsequently re- gained it, Sigismund III. compensated the inhabitants for their losses by es- tablishing a fair, and giving to the town his castle of Lukishki, of which no traces remain. In 1616 Witebsk was again burnt down by the Russians and Cossacks. Seven years later the in- habitants rose and put to death Bishop Kun^ewicz, who attemptc d to introduc<5 240 Bouic 12. — SmolensJc. Sect. II. the Uuiatc faith, for which oflcnco Ihc ancient privileges of Witebsk were with- drawn for a lime, but restored in 1G41 by Wladislaus IV. The Ihissians, un- der Sheremetieif, a^nin took Wite])j^k in 1054, after a sicgr of :U niontlis' duration, and hehl it until 1UG7, when, together with I'olotsk, it was restored to liithuania under the Treaty of Andrussy. Dnrinr^ the wnrs between l*eter I. and Charles XII., Witebsk, wliieh had sided with the Swedes, and had even sent them a subsidy of 7000 thalers, was burnt to the j^round by Cossacks and Culnmcks. by the order of Peter. It was tinally incor- porated with Jiussiain 1772. In 1812, AVitebsk, deserted by its in- habitants, was occn})ied by the French armv. No one was to be seen in it ])ut a few Jews and Jesuit's. They could give no information. The French followed in pursuit for G leagues, tlirough a deep and burning sand. At last night put an end to their progress. The soldiers, parching with thirst, could get only muddy water to queiicli it ; and '.vhile they were busy in prociuing it, Nnpoleon held a council, the result of which was that it was useless to pursue the liussians any further at present, and that it was advisable to halt where they were on the confines of Old liussia. As soon as the em- peror had formed this resolution he returned to Witebsk with his guards. On entering his headquarters in that city on the 28th July, he took oft' his sword, and, layhig it down on the nia])s which covered his table, " Here," said he, " I halt. I want to reconnoitre, to rally, to rest my army, and to organize Poland. The cjimpaign of 1812 is over; ti.at of 181o will do the rest." Napoleon left Witebsk on the 13th August, after halting there a fortnight, and on the ITith the nrmy \tas in sight of Krasnoi, where it defe;ited the corps of Xeverovski. Having gone through so many cala- mities, it is not surprising that Witebsk should have no monuments of antiquity to show the traveller. Its principal buildings are — the Palace where the Grand l)uke Constantino of Ilu.s.sia, brother of the Emperor Nicholas, died in 1831 ; the Nobility Assembly House, the Gymnasium, and the Cathedrals of St. Nicholas and of the Assumption. It has also a theatre, and an hospital with ICO beds. There is a consider- able trade with liiga in corn, flax, hemp, Uibacco, sugar, and timber. The countiy bt;yond Witebsk is very pretty. Until the rly. in cour.-o of construc- tion is open t\)r tratlic, travellers will have to post hence to ( )erl. Smolensk, 120 v. from Witebsk. On riv. Dniepr. Pop. 23.000. ILAcl : Patchinsky. History. — Nestor calls Smolensk the town of the Krivitchi, and alludes to its existence prior to the Xonnan con- (jucst of Pu.'^sia. The Vjiriague Prince Oleg took jMjssession f)f it in 882, nnd until the year 10.")4 it remained an- nexed to theprincipality of Kief, when it fell to the share of Yiacheslaf, son of Yaroslaf I. The "province" of Snioh n.>^k at that time comju-iscd the whole of the i)resent })rovince of Smo- hn>k and partof tlu». ]»resent provinces of Witebsk, Pskof, ^loscow, and Ka- luga. After passing under tlie govern- ment of various princes it became the appanage of Vladimir Monomachus, who constructed in the town of Smo- len.^k the Cathedralcif the Assumption, which, although destrovt d by the Poles in ihe 17th centy., ha.s .'^ince been re- stored in its original form, and still contains the image of the Holy Virgin, given to Vladimir Monomachus by his mother, daughter of the ICnqieror of Byziuitium. When Vladimir suc- ceeded in his tmn to the throne of Kief, Smolensk was governed by his 2 sons, llostislaf, .son of the next Prince of Kief, held Smolensk for 34 years as a vassal, and was drawn into all the wars wliich the Princes of luef, Chernigof, jmd Novgorod waged against each other. Mention is made in old chronicles of the magnificent reception given to liostislaf when as Prince of Kief he passed through Smolensk on his way to Novgorod. His son Robert succeeded liim at Smolensk, and spent so much money in building churches and establishing ccclesi- Riissia. Boide 12. — Smolensk. 241 astical schools that the expenses of his funeral had to be paid by the inhabiUmts. Many Veche or Wit- tcnagemotes were held about this time at Smolensk, as in other towns of liussia. The whole of the 12th centy. passed in constiint wars between the various princes. In the next centy. Smolensk was menaced by a new foe — the Lithuanians, who, in 128,5, ad- vanced up to Smolensk, and committed great ravages, but without taking the town, which had by this time grown very wealthy from its trade with the Baltic provinces and the Hauseatic League. The Germans even made a commercial treaty with Smolensk as early as 1229. A mutual right of trade and a free passage from Smolensk to Gothland in the Baltic was thereby secured, subject to the payment of cer- tain dues. This convention was con- firmed in 1284 and 1330. The size of the town may be estimated from the fact that in 1231 it lost no fewer than 32,000 inhab. from the plague. In 1237 the Tartars advanced on Smo- lensk, but it was saved, according to a legend, by a lloman named ]Mercurius, who went into the camp of the in- vaders and killed the giant on whom they most relied for success in their cnterjirise. Having been killed by the Tartars while asleep from fatigue, Mer- curius was recognised by the Church as a martyr, and to this day the helmet and greaves which the hero wore during the fight are sacredly preserved in the catheilral. The Lithuanians now made several attempts to possess them- selves of Smolensk, which compelled the inhabitants in 1275 to seek tlie assistance of the Tartars, who again in 1340 marched upon the city in con- junction with the forces of the Princes of Moscow and Iiiazan, but the expe- dition failed, owing, it is supposed, to the Tartar chief having been bribed by the besieged. Continual wars with Moscovy and Lithuania, and another dreadful phigue, soon after weakened the principality, and it was at last taken by the Lithuanians in 1305. In 1401, however, Oleg, Prince of Riazan, agreed to assist his father-in-law, George, in the recovery of the throne of Smolensk, and, having appeared before the town with a large force, the inhabitants opened their gates. Prince George immediately put to death all the Boyars who had espoused the cause of the Lithuanians. Vitovt, Prince of Lithuania, attacked Prince George in 1403, and after taking Viasma, in order to cut oft' his communications with JN^oscow, he laid siege to Smo- lensk during a period of seven weeks, but without success. Next year he came again, while George was at Moscow soliciting the aid of its prince, and reduced the town by famine on the 2Gth June, 1404. Vitovt gave the conquered town many privileges, but its ruin was so complete that a most dreadful famine ensued, during which the inhabitants were reduced to the condition of cannibal,-, and "dogs were seen in the streets feeding olf human bones." King Casimir of Poland visited Smolensk about 1453, and confirmed all its fonuer privileges. A truce with Moscow in 1493, and the marriage of Alexander, Grand Duke or Prince of Lithuania, with Helen daughter of John III. of Moscow, did not long preserve Smolensk from further disasters. Al- though the free exercise of the Greek religion had been guamnteed to Helen, yet Joseph, Bishop of Smolensk, soon begaii openly to preach the supremacy of the Pope and to interfere with the religious observances of the Grand Duchess. A cHspute about boun- daries gave the Moscovites a pretext for attack, and the Lithuanians were routed on the 14th July 1500 at Doro- gobush (8G V. from Smolensk), but Prince Alexander had put the town into such an excellent state of defence that the Moscovites were forced to withdraw, after suftering much from the want of provisions. A regular peace was not concluded until 1503. This had scarcely expired before war broke out afresh between the Lithua- nians and Moscovites, at the instiga- tion of Glinsky, a Lithuanian noble who went over to the Russians. After mimy encounters and another truce, John the Terrible resolved in council to tight the Lithuanians "as long as 242 Boufe 12.— 'Smolensk, Sect. II. his \\0Y6Q would carry him or his sword cut," and in 1513 he advanced on Smolensk with a contingent from Ptjkof, which was so imaccustomed to fight that ju.st before the assault their courage liad to be sustained l)y the distribution of 3 casks of mead and 3 of beer. A first .and a second campaign proved unsuccessful, but a third siege, under- taken in June 1514, with sui)crior forces, i)rovided with cannon, and with the assistance of mercenaries from Bohemia and Germany, compelled the citizens to surrender. The loss of Smolensk was keenly felt by the Poles and Lithuanians, and during the whole of the KJth centy. they endeavoured to regain possessi(m of it. Even tlie Khan <»f Tartary was called in bvKing Sigismund to induce the Iiussians to abandon it, but in vnin. Stephen Batory tried tf) take it by force of arms, but failed, for tlie castle and fortifications had been care- fully relmilt. In 1590 these were again strengtliened under the super- intendence of Boris Godunof, after- wards usurper of the throne of Mos- cow. He built a new wall of stone with 30 towers and gates. The ancient trade of the town was renewed, but famine and epidemics continued to succeed each other. The 17th centy. was ushered in by further troubles. On the death of 13f)ris Godunof, Smolensk surrendered to the false Demetrius, who gave it with the wlioleoftlie province to George (Yury) ISInLshek, Voe'vod of Sandomir, his future father-in-law. On the 21st April, lOOG, the citizens went out with church ])anners, and with bread, salt, and sable skins, to meet their " Tsaritsa" IManna, daugh- ter of Mnishek. But their loyalty was not of long duration. The downfall of the Pretender was the signal for their marching against the Poles, then in Moscow. Between 1008 and 1011 Smolensk held out against overwhelm- ing Polish forces, and at last had to sustain a siege of more than 20 months' duration ; nor would the old town have yielded, liad not tin* weakness of one of its walls l>een betraved to the Poles by a citizen. On the 3rd July, 1011, that part of the wall was battered down, and the Poles broke into the town, killing an immen.se number of the inhabitants. As jnany ns 72.000 persons perished on the l*olish and Russian sides during that memorable siege. The Boyar Siiein, who had so manfully conducted the defence of the city, was put in irons, tortures not to cany arms again.-;t- Poland during 4 months. It was a great humiliation to the vetenm Boyar to sec his troops march out of their camj> without Ix-at f»f drum, and bow low to the hosts of Poland while they deposited their colours at the feet of the King. As an act of gnice Wladislaus permitted Shein to take 12 guns with him, but on returning to ^Moscow the unfortunate man was be- headed, together with his adjunct, the Voe'vod Izmailof Twenty years later the war was renewed under the T.sar Alexis, wlio Russia. Momie 12. — Smolemh 243 in 1054 arrived in person with a large army before the walls of Smolensk. The first assault, made after a siege of 6 weeks, was repulsed, but after a second attack - the Polish com- mander, whose authority had been weakened by a tumult among the citizens, was forced to surrender. On the 23rd September, 1054, the Polish troops, this time, had to march est to Russify the province. Great numbers of the Polish poj)ulation were deported to the Volga and the Kama, and re- placed by '* sons of boyars " brought forcibly from lieyond ^loscow. The Treaty of Andrussy (1007) secured Smolensk to the Russians for 13 years and months, but the Poles took ad- vantage of the impending war between Hussia and Turkey in 1078 and de- manded the restoration of the city. This, however, the Russians refused to do, and preferretl paying an indemnity i>f 200,000 r. and surrendering several other towns. At last, by the Treaty of 20th April, 1080, Smolensk was annexed to Russia " for ever." The latter part of the 17th centy. was passed by the citizens in peace, and their ancient trade with Russia and other countries was renewed. When the great northern war broke out at the beginning of the 18th centy., Peter the Great frequently visited Smolensk, and devoted much labour to securing it from danger. The great war did not reach it, but it was made the basis of the operations in Lithuania and Little Russia, and the Poles natu- rally regretted all the more the loss of the city they had so long held. Jesuit fathers penetrated into it and gained over many of the citizens ; and although their adinission was prohibited by ukaz in 1728, when those who had already become domiciled in Russia were ex- pi'lled, they continued, according to Russian accounts, to enter the province of Smolensk in disguise, and to pro- Buma. — 1808. pagate Catholicism and allegiance to Poland. In 1734 a regular plot was discovered, in which even the Governor of Smolensk, Prince Cherkasky, was implicated. Their designs were di- vulged by one of the conspirators, and the measures which the Russian Government adopted dispelled the hopes of the Poles, and left the city of Smolensk in peace until the French invasion. The traveller is referred to the His- torical Notice for an account of Bona- parte's campaign in Russia, and we need only add the following particu- lars, as regards the city of Smolensk, taken from a Russian source : — " When the ' grand army' began its march from the Niemen in 1812. the Russian troops fell back on Smolensk. Although Barclay do Tolly encou- raged the inhabitants and assured them of their safety, he nevertheless caused the treasury to be removed, and all documents from which the enemy might derive any information about the condition of the country. The two Russian armies (one com- manded by Barclay do Tolly, the other by Bagration) reached Smolensk on the 22nd July (O.S.), and encamped on the 1. bank of the Dnieper. Three days later they retreated further, leav- ing only one regiment in the town. In the mean while the French advanced, and, after the engagement with Never- ofski at Krasnoi, appeared on the 3rd August in the neighbourhood of Smo- lensk. Raefski, sent to assist Never- ofski, fortified as far as he could the suburbs of the town, and resolved to maintain himself in it until the ar- rival of the two armies. " On the morning of the 4th (10th) August the fighting commenced, and was continued the next day with great carnage, as the armies had advanced the day before. Many assaults were repulsed, the old walls withstood a fearful cannonade, and a dreadful fire broke out in the town. . . . During the night our troops evacuated the town, and on the morning of the 6th (18th) Napoleon entered it, but found nothing except smouldering ruins, and no inhabitants except the old, the N 244 Boute 12. — Boslavl — Briansh, Sect. II. young, and the sick, many of whom had taken refuge in the churches. Napoleon remained 4 days at Smo- lensk, and established a Commission for the civil administration of the town, with Caulaincourt as Military Governor. The Commission could, however, do nothing; a rising took place all over the country; bands of partisans were formed, and destroyed foraging parties, and even larger bodies of the enemy, whenever thoy met them. The French tried to over- awe the people by acts of severity, and, having seized the leaders of two bands of partisans, Engelhard and Shubin, shot them at Smolensk. This only increased the animosity of the people, and when, on the 29th October (O.S.), Napoleon returned to Smolensk, he found nothing for the support of the remnants of the ' great army.' " The further retreat of Napoleon was protected at Smolensk by Ney, who left the city on the Gth (18th) Novemljer, after blowing up 8 of the towers built by Godimof, and a i)art of the other fortifications. The Russians who had remained in the town issued out of their places of refuge, and Ix^gan to destroy with frenzy the stragglers who roameil about the town, throwing them into the flames of the burning build- ings and into holes in the ice. . . . The 20th regiment of Rifles entered Smolensk, and put an end to these outrages. The removal and destruc- tion of the bodies of men and carcases of horses were continued for 3 months afterwards, for many of the streets were literally encumlx'red with the dead. At first the bodies were burned, piled in heaps half a verst in length and two fathoms high, and, when the supply of wood failed, they were buried in trenches and covered with quick-lime. P^pidemics subse- quently broke out in consequence. The losses incurred by Smolensk were at that tune valued at 6,592,404 r. 60 c." The mounds which cover the bodies of the unfortunate Frenchmen will be seen on either side of the old post- road from Moscow. Although the demolition of the historical walls of Smolensk has been commenced by the Town Council, there is reason to hope that this act of vandalism will go no further, and that the traveller, passing through the old city, will still catch a glimpse of its ancient defences. RosLAVL, 118 V. from Smolensk, on river Orcha. Pop. 7000. Vladimir Monomachus is supposed to have founded this town a.d. 1098, but its hist(^ry does not properly begin until the middle of the 12th centy. Like other towns in the principality of Smolensk, Roslavl was taken by the Lithuanians. In 1493 it was taken by the Moscovites, but in 1503 John liL gave it back to the Lithuanians. Later, Roslavl passed through several hands. In 1563 it was held by the troops of John the Terril^le, who oraiy Polish governor of Roslavl, Nadolsky, so greatly irritated them that they impaled him. In 1613, and again in 16:52, the ^los- covites seized the town, but they were obliged each time to restore it by treaty to the Poles. It was finally annexed to Russia by a treaty made in 1686. The old martial spirit of the inhabitants revived during the French invasion, when they equipped a de- tachment of 400 horse and foot, and greatly harassed the French foraging parties. BuiANSK, 145 V. E.N.E. of Orel, on both banks of the Desnia, and on those of 4 other small rivers, which divide the town into 4 parts, has a Pop. of 13,000. This town is mentioned in chronicles of the 12th centy., and formed an independent principality, which fell in 1356, on the death of its prince, Vassili, or William. 'NMien the Mongols invaded Russia, Briansk was seized by the Lithuanians, but Russia. Boute 12. — Kozelefs — Kief. 245 from time to time it was annexed to Moscovy, as for instance in 1491. It was finally incorporated with Russia in the beginning of the 17th centy. The adherents of the first Pretender took possession of the town, but the citizens withstood the siege of the se- cond false Demetrius. Under the Empress Anne a shipbuilding yard was established there, after a plan by Peter the Great, for the purpose of building vessels to be employed against Turkey ; but the ships having proved useless, their further constniction was stopped in 1739. In 1783 an arsenal was founded there for the manufacture of siege and field guns. It still exists, and supplies about 60 guns a year, be- sides gun-carriages and other artillery appurtenances. There are 13 churches within the town. The Cathedral of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin was built in 1526, and restored in the 17th centy. In the Sacristy will be seen a copy of the Evangelists, with the autograph of the Tsar Michael, 1637. There is also a convent con- taining 2 churches, in one of which is buried Oleg, Prince of Chemigof and Briansk, who flourished in the 13th centy., and afterwards took the cowl under the name of Leonidas. A considerable trade is carried on here in timber, hemp, and hemp-seed oil, produced in various parts of the province of Orel, in which the town is situated, and forwarded hence to Moscow, Riga, and St. Petersburg. The inhabitants likewise purchase cattle in the southern provinces, and sell it in the capitals. Orel, vide Rte. 13. (For route from Orel to Kursk, vide Rte. 13.) From Kursk the line of rail will pass through the following towns : — Belopolye, on rivers Vvra and Krj'ga. Pop. 12.000. Founded in 1672. The citizens of this town are noted for their industry and enterprise in trade ; wheat, salted fish, salt, pitch, and timber being the produce in which they deal. 10,000 to 12,000 chetverts of wheat are annually sold here. Tallow- melting is pursued to some extent. Kozelets, on river Ostra. Pop. 5000. This was a fortified town already in the 17th centy., when it suflfered much from the fanaticism of the Uniates, and from the quartering of troops. It took an active part in the Cossack rebellion. In the latter part of the 17th centy. it was frequently attacked by the Poles and Cossack Hetmans. There are 5 chs. in the town, of which the Cath. was built by Count Rastrelli in the reign of the Empress Ehzabeth. It contains the tomb of the mother of a former Hetman of Little Russia — Count Cyril Razumofski. It is situated in the province of Chernigof, in Little Russia, in the fertile districts of which the traveller will observe some distinc- tive features in the landscape, such as the primitive windmills, and the use of thatch instead of wood for the roofs of tlie cottages, many of which have or- chards attached to them. The traveller will have observed on leaving Kursk that he was entering the flat country of the *• Steppes " — immense districts, where he will rarely descry anything between him and the horizon but a straggling tree or perhaps a tumulus. Before the construction of the railroad there was much danger in traversing these tracts in winter, — as in the dark or in a snow-storm the way was easily lost, and the bewildered wanderer would sometimes be frozen or overwhelmed in drift. A few stations beyond Kozelets is Kief. Hotels : H. d'Angleterre ; H. de Russie; H. de I'Europe (very fair) ; and several others, almost equally good. Rooms from 1 to 5 rs. (01)8. Steamers ply twice a week in STunmer between Kief and Ekaterino- slaf, from whence travellers may proceed to Kherson, and take boat to Odessa, or proceed by Perekop through the Crimea. The steamers between Nico- pol, on the Dnieper, and Kherson, 3 times a- week. Fare 7*50 rs.) History. — Kief, " the Jerusalem of Russia," with a Pop. of 70,000, is one of^he most ancient towns in Europe. Its authentic history begins with the arrival of two Variag or Norman knights, Askold and Dyr, with their comrades, who left Novgorod to tike possession of it. With a fleet of 200 vessels the N 2 246 Boiite 12,— Kief. Sect II. Eussia. Boute 12. — Kief. 247 Norman princes of Kief sailed along the Dnieper and the Euxine, and reached Byzantium, where the knights embraced Christianity. In 882 Oleg came to Kiuf, with Igor, the youthful son of Rurik, killed treacherously the two knights, and, taking possession of the city, determined that it should be " the mother of Russian towns." From that period Kief became the capital of the Russian principali- ties. Olga, Regent at Kief during the minority of the son of Igor, em- braced Christianity at Constiintinople about A.D. 955. (.Vide Historical Notice.) Under the Grand Duke Vla- dimir, who linally introduced the Christian religion into Russia, and during the reigns of several of his suc- cessors, Kief acquired much importance, and grew prosperous from its connec- tion with the Byzantine empire. An- cient writers affirm that in the lltli cent, there were no fewer than 400 churches withni its walls. In the year 1017 a fire almost entirely consumed it. The death of Yaroslaf (1054) led to intestine commotions and wars, which more than once caused the city to change masters. In 1240 the Tartars took it and sacked it. In 1320 Gue'- demin, Duke of Lithuania, drove out the Tartars, and annexed the whole of that part of the country to Lithuania. In 14i}G and 1500 the Tartars again ravaged the ill-fated city. The sub- sequent fat€ of Kief will be best described in a short history of the S.W. provinces, of which it is now the seat of government. Volhynia, Kief, and Podolia have a Pop. of about 5 millions. Volhynia lies in the basin of the Prypet river, and is very fertile in its southern districts, which were once covered with castles and flourishing cities connected with the history of Poland. Jitomir is the only town that has risen since the an- nexation of Volhynia to the empire of Russia. Podolia is the country com- prised between the Bug and the midcjle part of the Dniester. From time im- memorial this has been a land flowing with milk and honey. The southern portion of the province of Kief is almost equally fertile. Beetroot is very much cultivated there, and many thousands of the population are engtiged in ex- tracting sugar from it. This was anciently called the Uk- raine, or border cotmtry, and beyond it were the uninhabited Steppes by which the Mongols advanced to overrun Europe. The semi-nomadic population of the Ukraine were early called Cos- sacks. From the princes of the house of Rurik these provinces passed into the possession of Lithuania and Poland, after having been devastated by the Tartars in 1238. At the union of Lithuania with Poland (1386) the whole of " Southern Ruthenia" was annexed to Poland. Polish nobles f>btained large grants of unpopu- lated lands in Volhynia and Podolia, and built castles, under the sha- dows of which rose towns and vil- lages. By the union of Lublin ( 1569) tlu^ three provinces of Volhynia, Po- dolia, and Kief were recognised as con- stituent portions of Poland. But they were later ceded in part to Russia, which, however, by the treaty of Viazma, in 1634, recognised the right of Poland to Smolensk, Chernigof, and the whole of the Ukraine on both bunks of the Dnieper. The Cossacks soon after Ixicanie very troublesome. They were conti lually undertaking expeditions against the Turks and the Tartars, and laying Poland open to the imputa- tion of a want of good faith and a dis- regard of treaties. Recruited from the dregs of Polish society, and scorned by the Polish aristocracy, the Cossacks were very democratic in spirit. Religious dissension, caused by the conversion of a portion of the population of the southern provinces to Catholic- ism, gave them (the Cossacks) another cause of disaffection. Under the leader- ship of an ambitious and clever Polish noble, Bogdan Khmelnitski, whom they elected Hetman, they rose in 1648, and devastated Volhynia, Podolia, and the Ukraine during 20 years. The Het- man, unable to resist the Polish arms, became a vassal of the Khan of the Crimea, and, flnding his protection in- sufficient, swore allegiance to the Tsar Alexis of Moscow in 1657. By the Treaty of Andrussy (1667), \ Poland and theTsar agreed to divide the Ukraine into two parts, the former re- taining the Ukraine on the right bank of the Dnieper, and Moscovy taking the Ukraine on its left bank and the town of Kief. Southern Rutiienia remained in the possession of the Republic of Poland until the second partition in 1793, when the provinces of Volhynia, Podolia, and Kief passed finally under the Russian sceptre. Topography, &c. — Although deprived of much of its ancient grandeur, the city of Kief is, nevertheless, one of the most remarkable towns in Russia. Picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Dnieper, or Boristheues, it is divided into three principal parts, the "Old Town," the " Pecherskoi," also called the " New Fort," and the "Podole," the "Low Town," or *' Town of the Vale." Eacli of these has its own fortifications. The banks of the Dnieper are here lofty, and on two steep hills are situated the Old Town and the Pecherskoi division, with their monastery, fortress, and bastions, separated from each other by a deep ravine, while the Podole occupies the space between the hills and the river, where the commercial affairs of the town are transacted. The site of the Old Town, in remote ages, was the Selavo- nian Pantheon. There the worshippers of Perune, Horsa, Lado, and other idolatrous deities, rendered homage to their savage gods ; and there the rough Christian Vladimir erected the church of St. Basil (still standing), on the spot long decorated by the temple of Perune, the Russian Jupiter. At the northern end of the high land on which the Old Town stands is part of another church that was likewise erected by Vladimir. The immense earthen walls of this very ancient part of Kief enclose, within a small space, several churches, and the Cathedral of St. Sophia. This magni- ficieut structure was built by the Grand Duke Yaroslaf in 1037, on the spot and in -commemoration of his victory over the Petchenegans. It is replete with religious and historical recollections. On the pillars which support the cupola frescoes have lately been brought to light representing departed members of the Uniat hierarchy, wearing the Catholic tonsure, with close-shaven chins. The church of St. Sophia was in possession of the Uniats between 1590 and 1633, when some of the fres- coes on its walls were covered with whitewash, and thus preserved from the effect of time. There are some curious frescoes along the walls of the stairs leading to the galleries, descrip- tive of a boar-hunt and other sports, intermixed with drawings of musicians, dancers, and jugglers; all apparently cotemporaneous with the building of the church. Over the high altar is a picture of the Holy Virgin, in mosaic- work, by Byzantine artists. The Lord's Sujjper is also depicted in mosaic on the eastern wall of the ch., and there are many other specimens of the same work, more or less in a good state of preservation, and all of the highest interest, considering their extreme antiquity. The marble tomlj of Yaroslaf stands in the chapel dedicated to St. Vladimir. It is curiously carved. The principal relics in the ch. of St. Sophia are those of St. Macarius, Metropolitan of Kief A.D. 1495, decapitated by the Tar- tars in 1497. Tiie church vessels and books are not very remarkable. IVIany princes of Kief lie buried here. Tliere are many other churches of ancient origin in this venerable town. We can only mention the ch. called the Desiatiunaya. supposed to have been built a.d 989, by St. Vladimir, and that of St. George, erected about 1052. A small monument is erected close to it over the ruins of an ancient monastery of St. Irine. The remains of an old wall are carefully preserved as marking the site of a gate of gilt bronze by which the town was ap- proached in the days of Yaroslaf. The palace of the Metropolitan is close to the cathedral, and shaded by venerable trees. Some remarkable re- mains of ancient art are preserved in it. The Fecherskoi Monastery, or Kievo- Pecherskava Lavra, the first in rank in Russia, and the most ancient in origin, having been built in 1055, stands within the immense fortress of 248 Boute 12»—Pecher8h)i Monastery. Sect. IT. Russia. Boute 12. — Berdichef — Vinnitsa, 249. Pechersk, and gives its name to that portion of Kief, which, from the eastern upproacli, has an exceedingly striking and picturesque effect. The churches and cathedral of the Old Town, grouped with those of this monastery, all gilt and coloured, and the massive fortress, walls, and bastions mantling the heights, seize at once upon the traveller's atten- tion at the close of his laborious journey. The entrance to the monastery is by a splendid gate, ornamented by full- length representations of St. Anthony and St. Theodosius. the two first abbots. The cathedral, dedicated to the Ascen- sion of the Virgin, is reached by a fine alley, on either side of which are the cells of the brotherhood. The interior of the catiiedral is in an elegant style of architecture, and on its walls beau- tiful representations of scenes taken from Scripture history are many and various; it is also resplendent with gilding, gold and silver, applied to all decorative purposes in the building, and on the shrines, the most remark- able of which is that of the Virgin, over the doors which open into the Most Holy Place. The lights constantly burning about the church, and the pro- fusion of them about this particular shrine at the Vesper service, are in- sufficient to show to advantage the richly-decorated ceiling. The seven turrets of this church, with their gilt cupolas, connected by golden chains, and the superb belfry, which stands alone, and is upwards of 800 ft. high, add much to the external splendom* of the place. It may be mentioned that the Russian annalist, Nestor, lived and wrote his Chronicle in this convent. Among the numerous other churches in the enclosure, that of St. Nicholas is the most worthy of a strangers in- spection. Within the walls of the fortress of Pechersk are the barracks of the garrison, the magazine, arsenals, and the houses of the officers. Near the fortress is a bazaar ; and the quarter of the town behind it, which is regularly laid out, is partly inliabited by Jews. The best part of the town, containing the residence of the Governor and other persons of distinction, shaded by fine old trees, is north of the Jewish neigh- lx)urhood. The renowned catacombs of St. An- thony, the founder of the monastery, are excavations in the precipitous cliff which overhangs the river; his re- mains are therein preserved at the extremity of the labyrinth. This passage 'is about 6 ft. high, but ex- tremely narrow, and blackened by the torches of numerous visitors. The number of bodies here preserved is about 80, ranged in niches on both sides of the passage, in open coffins, enveloped in wrappers of cloth and silk, ornamented with gold and silver. The stiffened hands of the saints are so placed as to receive the devotional kisses of the pilgrims ; and on their breasts arc written their names, and sometimes a short record of their vir- tuous deeds. These saints had died a naturid death ; but the most distress- ing part of the scene is the row of small windows, behind which the martyrs had built themselves into a stone wall, leaving only those aper- tures at which to receive their food. The catacombs of Theodosius are to the south of those of St. Anthony, and are on a mucli smaller scale and simpler plan. They contain only 45 bodies, which are not so highly vene- rated as those in the other catacomb. The pilgrims to this monastery and the catacombs amount annually to as many aa 50,000, or more; some from one partot the widely-extended Russian empire, some from another. A few will toil even all the weary way from Kam- chatka, collecting on the road the offer- ings of those who are either not able or not sufficiently devout to undertake the journey themselves. A sh(jrt dis- tance from* the road which leads from Pechersk to the Podole, the traveller should notice a handsome monument, that marks tl e fountain in which the children of Vlaiimir the Great were baptized. It is a stone obelisk, 150 ft. high ; and close to its base is a wooden crucifix, bearing, in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, the words Jesus of Nazareth, the King of the Jews. The administra- tion of tiie baptismal jite to the Russian people, at the jxjriod of the conversion of their renowned Grand Duke, took place very near the spot on which this monument stands. The Podole portion of Kief is well and regularly laid out, interspersed with trees and gardens, and forms a strong contrast to the old parts of the city, where, at almost every turn, the picturesque presents itself in great variety. The University of St. Vladimir, founded 1833, is frequented by about r>00 students. The library contains 107,000 vols., and the collections are equally complete. The Nicholas Suspension Bridge over the Dnieper is one of the greatest modern triumphs of engineering art. It was built between 1848 and 1855, by an Englishman, Mr. Charles Vig- nolles. Its length is 6755 ft., and it cost about 375,000Z. The railroad from Kief to Balta and 0e found at every corner; they have generally 2 horses; the fare is about 40 copecks the hour. History of the Town. — In the earliest ages settlements or seaports existed on the N. coast of the Euxine, between the Dnieper and the Dniester. One of these was called Odessus, after a Greek town in Thrace, and was situated at a short distance N.E. of the modern city. The great migra- tion of peoples which took place in the 3rd and 4th centiu-ies destroyed those settlements and their trade, and for nearly ten centiu-ies there is no account of their being re-established. It is supposed that in the 9th centy. that part of the coast of the lAixine was in the possession of a Slavonian tribe. Somewhat later, when the Genoese began to visit the Pontus Euxinus, they gave the present site of Odessa the name of "La Ginestra," probably from the circumstance of its being overgrown with the genista tinctoria^ or dyer's broom ; but they marked no settlements as existing there on their charts. From the 14th centy. the coast of the Black Sea between the Dnieper and the Dniester was claimed by the Princes of Lithuania. In 1396 Olgerd, a Lithuanian general, defeated on that coast three Tartar chiefs, one of whom, called Bek-Hadji, had but a short time previously founded on the present site of Odessa a fortress which he named Hadji-B< y. First the Lithua- nians, then the Poles, held possession of the coast until the first part of the 16th centy., when Hadji-Bey and its ni'i'j:hbourhood fell under the dominion of the Tartars. Polish and Lithuanian merchants were, however, permitted to continue their trade there, and to raise salt from the lakes in the vicinity. When the Turks began to establish themselves on the Black Sea, they placed garrisons and raised fortifi- cations at several j>oints along the coast. Thus in 1764, while making ready for a war with Russia, they Imilt the fortress of Yani-Dunya, at Hadji-Bey. In 1769 the Zaporogian Cossacks biu-nt the suburbs of Hadji- Bey, but having no cannon were ini- able to take the fortress. The Treaty of Kinardji seenn-d it to the Turks, who found it necessary to strengthen the works. Wiien Russia went to war again with Turkey in 1787, the " Ataman " of the Black Sea CV)s.sacks attacked Hadji-Bi'y, and set fire to its stores, but the fortress only fell in 1789, to Brigadier de Ribas, who com- manded the vanguard of the corps of General Gudovitch, then engaged in making a reconnaissance at the lower course of tlie Dniester. On the 14th (26tl0 September, 1789, De Ribas led his troops to the assault under a heavy fire both from the citadel and from the Turkish ships in the roads. In a quarter of an hour the left face of the fortress was penetrated, and the gar- rison yieldetl. By the Treaty of Jassv, 1791, Hadji-Bey, with the whole i)f the province of Otchakof, was annexed to Russia. A new fortress was founded at Hadji-Bey in 1793, and in 1794 its builder, De Ribas, obtained permission to establish a mercantile city in its vicinity. The construction of the towni and harbour was intrusted by Cathe- rine the Great to De Ribas and De Volant, who employed for that purpose the troops in garrison at Hadji-Bey, Eussia. Boute 12. — Odessa. 251 Greeks and Albanians were attracted to the spot, so that in 1795 Hadji-Bey had a population of more than 2000 souls in addition to its garrison, and it was then named Odessa, after the ancient colony already mentioned. In 1796 the new port was entered by 86 foreign ships, and its commercial im- ]K)rtance began to advance rapidly. The accession of the Emperor Paul put a stop to the works, and De Ribas was recalled. In 1800, however, the privileges of Odessa were confirmed, and a sum of 250,000 roubles was ad- vanced from the Treasury for the pur- pose of finishing the construction of the port. The Emperor Alexander renewed the privileges for a term of 25 years, freed the town from the quartering of troops — then a great hard.«ihip, — allotted one-tenth' of the customs duties to the maintenance and improvement of the harbour, and caused two new piers to be built. But the prosperity of Odessa is chiefly due to the talents and energy of Duke Emanuel de Richelieu, a French emi- grant who was made its first governor in 1830. Eleven years later, when lie was succeeded by Count Langeron, the population had grown from 9000 to 25,000. The principal streets were laid out and lighted by him. He built the quarantine (in the old fortress), the mole, warehouses for foreign goods, and a theatre. With every opportunity of enriching himself, the duke is said to have left Odessa with a small port- manteau containing his uniform and two shirts, the greater part of his in- come having been disbursed in reliev- ing the distresses of immigrants who generally arrived in a great state of destitution. His amiable and chari- table qualities endeared him to all classes, and his departure was greatly regretted. In 1817 Odessa obtained the privi- leges of a free port for 30 years. In 1822, however, it having become known that the freedom was about to be abolishetl, the foreign merchants were on the point of quitting the town, when the obnoxious order was rescind- ed, and Count Langeron, the governor. who had advocated the measure, was dismissed . The town owes much of its present greatness to Prince WoronzofF, who came to reside at Odessa as Go- vernor-General of Xew Russia in 1823. He caused " the Duke's Garden " to be laid out, and a monster staircase on arches to be built from the end of the Boulevard to the shore under the cliflf. Many educational and charitable insti- tutions were founded during his tenure of office, the harbour was deepened, and many other useful works were begun and completed. On the 10th (22nd) April, 1854, Odessa was bombarded during 12 hrs. by an Anglo-French squadron. The Tiger frigate went ashore on the 12th May near Odessa, and was set on fire by the shore batteries. The officers and crew were made prisoners of war, but not before they had burnt their colours and papers. The flag exhibited in one of the chs. at St. Petersburg as that of the Tiger be- longed merely to one of its boats. The freedom of the port was aboUshed at the outbreak of the Crimean war, and the town now enjoys an annual sub- sidy in lieu thereof. In 1861 gas was introduced, and in 1866-67 Mr. Fur- ness, an English contractor, paved the town very efficiently. Owing to the energy of Baron Ungern Sternberg, the railway was opened to Balta in 1866. The imports of foreign goods at Odessa amounted between 1861 and 1864 to the annual value of 10;^ mil- lion roubles, while the exports were officially valued during the same period at 30| millions. Wheat is the principal article of export (17^ mil- lions;. It is brought to Odessa in bullock carts, in barges down the Dniester, Dniej>er, and the Bug, and by the Balta rly. Wool is also ex- ported in considerable quantities (8^ millions). The shipments of tallow are valued at a little less than a mil- lion roubles, and those of linseed at 2^ millions. The port is annually visited by 1300 to 1500 vessels, of which about 200 are under British colours. Topography, cfcc— Should the tra- veller have reached Odessa from the N 3 252 Boute 12. — Odessa. Sect. II. interior of Russia, he will be stnick ■with tlie bright and European aspect of the great mercantile city, which, built principally of stone, is totally unlike any other Russian town. Fa- voured, however, as Odessa is by its position on the sea, it is bordered on the left side by a dreary steppe of so intractable a soil that trees and shrubs, with the exception of the acacia, rarely attain any size, and in many places will not even live. A narrow slip along the sea-shore is about the only oasis of vegetation in the neigh- bourhood of the city. The climate is very unequal, and, the town being built on a limestone cliflf of a very crumbling nature, the dust during summer is almost insupportable. There is also another and a greater evil— the want of fresh water ; the greater part, indeed nearly all, of this necessary of life is brought from a considerable distance through an aqueduct. Arte- sian borings have been made to a depth of 600 ft., but the water in the wells is rather brackish. Fuel is very scarce and dear. The principal promenade is the Boulevard, where a military band per- forms several times a week during the summer, when a stranger may see the ^lite of the place. There is in the centre of this walk a bronze statue of the Duke de Richelieu ; he is looking towards the sea, and facing the mon- ster staircase already mentioned. A monument to Prince Woronzoff will be seen in the square next to the Cathe- dral, in which he is buried. His house, a princely mansion, is on the cliff at the end of the boulevard. At the other extremity of this is the Exchange. The Theatre, an elegant stone structure, with a peristyle sup- ported by columns, is in the large square. Italian operas and Russian and French plays are performed in it throughout the year. There are 13 Russo-Greek chs. at Odessa, and no fewer than 20 Jewish synagogues and schools. The Cathedral stands conspicuously in the centre of the town, and in the middle of an immense square sur- rounded by trees and by a balustrade, in which are four gates corresponding to the four cardinal points. This ch. is of considerable size ; it is built in the form of a cross, and is surmounted by a large cupola. Two of its fa9ades present fine porticoes, each with a row of columns. The interior is very chaste, spacious, and elegant, and its floor is formed of white and grey marble. Among the principal buildings in the towi may be mentioned the University of New Russia, established 1865. This was formerly the Richelieu Lyceum, founded by the duke. It is a very ex- tensive edifice, and in the form of an oblong square, divided by a Une of building in the middle. Some of the granaries are worthy of notice ; they are remarkably well built of stone. That of Sabansky, on the ravine, is of immense extent, and has an imposing appearance from the streets looking towards the Quarantine, which was formerly the fortress. The Greek and other Bazaars merit attention, parti- cularly to a person landing here ; they afford opportunities for observing local and national peculiarities. Odessa is rich in public institutitms, such as schools and hospitals. The I'uh- lic Lihrarij, close to the statue of Riche- lieu, is small, but well chosen. The Mu- seum contains many objects of antiquity from the sites of ancient Greek colo- nies in this part oftlie world, par- ticularly from those of Olbia, Kher- sonesus, Panticapteum, &c. iic. {Some of the vases and medals are worthy of observation, and a gold one of the time of Alexander is in remarkable pre- servation. And last, thougli not least hi interest, is a japanned fiat candle- stick, once the property of the philan- thropic Howard ; it is preserved with great care. The sight of this relic will call up a host of feelings connected with the remembrance of his fate, and emotions of admiration and respect for his unwearied exertions in the cause of humanity. Howard's last words to his friend Priestmau are character- istic :— " Let no monument or monu- mental inscription whatsoever mark the spot where I am buried ; lay me quietly in the earth, place a sun-dial over my grave, and let me be forgot- Russia. Boute 13. — Moscow to Odessa : Serjpukhof. ten." And truly this remarkable man seems to be forgotten. His remains lie mouldering in the steppe near Kherson, and those who pass by his tomb are alike ignorant of his virtues and his name. ^ Odessa enjoys an Eiahlissement de Bains, situated at the foot of the Boule- vard, and mineral waters are sold at an establishment in the town garden. The public slaughtering-houses are on a large scale. Many thousands of cattle are there boiled down for the tallow. It is a singular, but not a very agree- able spectacle. A drive to the race- course and to the villas on the sea- coast should be undertaken by the traveller, Al>out 2 m. out of town is a fine country-house and garden which once belonged to a Count RazmnopJci, wlio, having quarrelled with his next f)f kin, purposely squandered his for- tune in excavating vast subterranean galleries on his estate. It stands next to a public garden which was once Riclielieu's, and its present proprietor is Mr. Zarifi, a Greek merchant at Odessa, whose permission to visit the garden will be easily obtained. An- other place of resort out of town, and particularly in the evening, is the tountry house that once belonged to Count Langeron. Music, fire-works, itc, are provided there for the enter- tainment of the public. There is also a Botanical Garden outside the town, but, as said before, the difticulties of soil, drought, and frost are higldy in- jurious to the growth of plants. Melons are raised in the gardens in the en- virons of the city; they are of the most delicious flavour, and very cheap. Divine /Serme.— There is no Eng- lish ch. at Odessa, but Uivnie service is l)erformed on Sundays at a private liouse, the clergyman being supported partly by the contributions of the Bri- tish inhabitants, who are, however, very few in number. Consulate. — A liritish Consul-Gene- ral resides at Odessa. 253 ROUTE 13. MOSCOW TO ODESSA, BY TULA, ORET-. KURSK, KHAHKOFF, POLTAVA, KKEMEX- CHUK, ELIZAVETGHAD, AND liALTA. [A great portion of this route may now be made by rail. Travellers must inquire before leaving Moscow how far the lines of railway have been pushed, and they can then decide whether it will be best to proceed by way of Kief, or to take the more direct route bv way of Kharkoff, Poltava, Kremen- clmk, Elizavetgrad, and Balta, even at the cost and fatigue of making several stages by post. Until the Southern lines are completed, it is impossible to give more than a sketch of the princi- pal towns through which they will pass, especially since the fares, the time-tables, and other conditions of the sections already opened will be liable to great changes.] Serpukhof, 92 V. from Moscow Stal . Bullet. Town very prettily situateorders of Russia, and frequently laid waste to the lands which now constitute the province of Tula. In the year 1552, more particidarly, Devlet Ghirey be- sieged the town, assisted by the Janissaries of the Sultan, but was forced to retreat. In the early part of the 17th centy. Tula was the re- sort of robbers and criminals, who were permitted to escape thither in order that they might populate the province, and defend it against in- vaders. A celebrated band of these outlaws was the first to join the ranks of Otrepief, the false Demetrius, in 1605, who for a time made Tula his capital. Here he received the Ambas- sadors of the Council of Moscow, and hither were brought the Treasury and the raiment of the princes of Moscow. On the death of Otrepief, when a report of his miracidous preservation was spread, the citizens of Tula marched in IGOG (m Moscow, but were driven back with the loss of their leader, I'ashkoft'. For some time Tula was unsuccessfully besieged by the Moscovite troops. At last the Tsar Basil appeared before its walls in person, but, still meeting with effectual resistance, the besieging army conceived the idea of reducing the garrison by inundating it with tlu^ waters of the Upa. A dam was accord- ingly constructed below the town, and in a short time the river submerged all but the highest parts of it, and t\w inhabitants were obliged to come out with offers of submission. The i)rin- cipal rebels were executed, lleika, an impistor, who gave himself out as Peter, sou of the Tsar Tlieotlore, was hano^ed near the Danilof monasterv (vide Moscow). But the peace thus restored was not of long duration. Other lawless bands succeeded, led by the second pretender, known as " the thief of Tushin." They tortiu-ed and killed the inhabitants for their loyalty to the Taar. The last military event in connec- tion with the history of this unfortu- nate t<^^)wn occurred in 1G13. when it was burnt to the ground by the Poles. Its peaceful history only commences with the reign of the Tsar ^Michael, It is time, however, to mention t'nat the town of which the history has been thus sketched existed some 10 m. to the N. of the present site of Tula. Nothing remains f»f the old citv, and the new one dates only from the )»e- gnming of the 18th centy., when Peter the Great turned his attention to the mineral riches and industrial develop- ment of this part of his dominions. Although the more recent rise of Tida to the position of chief town of a pro- vince is due to the skill of its inhabit- ants in the art of gun-making, yet the first impulse to their industry was given so far back as the IGth centy., when iron-ore was discovered in the village of Dedilova, 20 m. from Tula. But for a considerable time the iron Kussia. Boute 13. — Tula. 255 produced at Dedilova continued to 1^ almost useless for the purpose of making weapons of war, and conse- quently iron was imported from Sweden, and gun-barrels, .swords, and guns from England, Germany, and particularly from Holland. The Dutch were the first to esta- l)lish iron foundries and works in Russia. In 1553, Akema, a Dutch- man, and Marselius, from Hamburg, founded several iron-works and a gun- factory, and in 1G33, Winnis, another Dutchman, established a foundry, and worked the metals by means of wat( r- power, near the site of the old town. More than 600 artificers were brought from foreign countries, to teach the Russians the art of making guns, swords, locks, &c. Successive charters confirmed and extended the privileges granted to the manufactories, and from 1613 the Tula gunsmiths began to work exclusively for the State. Peter the Great caused a great num- ber of young men to be sent thither, and to be kept at work under the strictest discipline. Small works were erected by tbi Government about 1707, but they were bunied down in 1711. In 1712 works on a larger scale, still extant, were commenced, and finished in 1718, with the assistance of the Swedish prisoners taken by Peter, who by the year 1720 had 11 GO gunsmiths at work, producing annually 15.000 muskets, 2000 pairs of pistols, and 1200 pikes. Twelve years previously, or in 1685, the number of artificers was only 122, and they did not make more than 244 arquebuses and culverins, many of which may be seen in the Arsenal Museum at St. Petersburg, and in the Treasury at Moscow. But the death of Peter the Great was a blow to the trade, from which it only recovered in the reign of Alexander I., when the Government arms-factory was made to produce about 13,000 various weapons per month (1813- 1814). Like almost all Russian towns, Tula has suffered frequently from fires, and particularly in 1834, when a large por- tion of its inhab. were reduced to beggary. The new small-arms factory, w^hich is well worth seeing, was erected under the superintendence of Mr. Trewheller, an Englishman, who made the establishment one of the first in Europe. The lathes are turned by water, which runs through iron cylinders large enough for a man to walk in nearly upright ; and by means of a warming apparatus, the working of the lathes is not interrupted by any degree of frost. In addition to the government factory, there are many manufactories of sporting guns, and a great number of locksmiths, the total ntmiber of establishments where iron or other metal is worked being about 200. Large quantities of cutlery are made at Tula, and an immense trade is carried on in brass tea-urns, used almost in eveiy Russian house. The Tula ware of nieUo, and its silver .snuff-boxes, &c., have long been cele- brated in Europe. The recent discovery of coal in the province of Tula and the con- tinued richness of its iron-mines pro- mise much for the prosperity of the town, especially since it has been made a station on the Great South- ern Railroad. There is nothing to interest the traveller in Tula beyond its manufactories, excepting perhaps the old walls of the Kremlin, parallel with the rt. bank of the Upa. They were constructed in 1520, in place of an old wootlen fortification erected loOy. They are built partly of stone and partly of brick. Catherine II. caused the walls to be surrounded by a dry ditch and a glacis, one fathom deep and 2 fms. broad. The wall antl • the towers, then very much decayed, were at the same time re- paired. Those who wish to study the coal measures of the Moscow basin should make an excursion from Tula in the direction of the village of Malefka, in the district of Epifan. There is a post road to Epifan, and from that little town to Malefka the distance is about 25 versts. The village belongs to Count Bobrinsky. The colliery of Malefka, which is superintended by Dr. Leo, a mining engineer from Ger- I many, is now of considerable extent. 256 Eoute 13. — Orel, Sect. II. It will aftbrd great interest to the geologist, on account of its limestones, which are rich in very peculiar petri- factions, {Rhynconella panderi, Retzia tulensis, Spirifer inflatos, sp. amleatus, 8p. ano8 oj)i, Froductiis panderi, pr. fallaXy Michelinf'a rossica, &e. The limestones are coiisiileretl by Russian geologists to be Upper I)ev(»nian. They lie imniediutcly under the slate clays of the coal formation, and their fauna is a transition from the De- vonian fauna to that of mountain lime- stone. Orel, 330 v. S.W. from IMoscow. Pop. 43,000. Junction with Riga, Dihiaburg, and Witebsk RIy. Hotels : there are two hotels at Orel, superior to those at Tula. Tiie first is the old Posting-house in Karachef-street, and the other in IJriansk-street. The latter is pretty fair. Talysen's cham- hres tjarniea are much frequented l>y the nobility of the province. There is no table d'hote, but excellent dinners may be had at the Nobility Club House. Orel is the chief town of the province bearing the same name, and is a very important centre of trade. Its connection by rail with Riga, to be effected l)y 1870, will still further increase the advantages of its position. It is situated on the slopes of a somewhat considerable ravine at the June, of the .small river Orlik with the Oka, which here becomis navigable. Founded by John the Terrible, about 15G5, for the defence ot the Grand Duchy of Moscow against the Tartars, it was removed from its ori- ginal site on the Orlik to its present position in 1G79, after a great fire. Its reconstruction was superintended by Jacob Van Frosten, who also built an earthen wall and towens, of which no traces remain. During the troubles at Moscow in the early j)nrt of the 17th centy., Orel took the side of the rebels, and in lt»05 a party that had declared for the Tsar was seized by the adherents of the Pretender, and cast into prison. In 1611, however, when the I*oles attempted to place their Prince, Wladislaus, on the throne of Muscovy, the citizens of Orel swore allegiance to the Tsar Michael, which led to the town being sacked by the Poles. But Orel has suffered less from its enemies than from conflagra- tions, of which the more severe took place in 1G73, 1848, and 1858. In the latter year more than GOO houses, several churches, and a convent were destroyed, together with an immense quantity of wheat and hemp. The town at prestint contains 9 churches of the Russo-Greek faith, of which the cathedral, dedicated to the Apostles Peter and Paul, was founded in 17U4, at the cost of the nobles of the province, in commemoration of tht; co- ronation of the Emperor Paul, but was only finally consecrated in 1861. The bishops of Orel reside in a palace which was formerly a monastery, suppressed 1819. There are also a Lutheran and a Roman Catholic Chapel. The Cjo.^- tinnoi Dvor or Bazaar is a handsome and extensive building. Orel possesses a theatre, presented to the town by Count Levashoff, on condition of its revenues Ix^ing appropriated to the suj)port of an asylum ; also a public library and a public garden of nearly 20 acres. The finest buildings in the town are the Courts of Law (founded 1846), the Governor's house (1783), the Assembly-house of the nobility (1823), and a military gymnasium. Much of the tjdlow and hemp ex- l)orted from Russia comes from Orel and its neighbourhood. The yearly transactions of Orel in wheat amount to al>out 1 million roubles. It is brought there, for sale and shipment down the Oka, from the neighbouring provinces of Tula and Voronej, but j>iirticularly from Kursk, The sales of hemp and liemp-yarn liki;wise re- present more than a million of roubles jKir annum, the raw material being grown principally in the province of Orel, and partly in that of Tula. Lin- seed oil, purchase western and northern banks of the rivers Donets, Vorskla, and Psla to protect tliemselves from incursions by earthworks. Some of the more an- cient names of places may be traced to the Khazars, and others to the Tartars, by lx>th of whom Russia was overrun in remote ages. At all events the races that iniiabited the province of Kharkoff, and whose existence has left traces from the Enisei in Siberia to the foot of the Caucasus and the moutlis of the Dniepr, must have passed away before tlie Christian era, for a Roman writer of the fourth centy. after Christ, while speaking of the Huns, compares their faces to the " roughly-hewn |)osts with the face of a man, such as may be seen on the shores of the Pontus Euxinus." Tiie discovery of coins of Octsu'ius (Augustus) and of numerous ancient weapons near the town of Chuguef (36 v. from Kharkoff; esta- blishes the fact of an early intercourse with Rome, whih; the coins of tke Khalifs found near Sumi ' 187 v. from Kharkoff) prove the existence of an early mercantile connection with Ara- bia. Panslavists assert that the whole of the countrv under considemti(jn was Eussia. Boute 13. — Kharkoff. 259 peopled by Slavonian races before it began to be mentioned by Greek and Roman writers, but more impartial authorities are of opinion that ?t any rate the south-eastern portion of the present province of Kharkoff was the camping-ground of ancient nomadic tribes, particularly of the Khazars, who established their power from the banks of the Caspian to the very borders of Kief, the Norman princes of which at last drove the barbarians back. The northern Donets is frequently men- tioned by old Russian chroniclers when relating the wars of the Polovtses and the Petchenegians. Many towns ex- isted in its immediate vicinity, and are mentioned prior even to the 11th centy. In the 13th centy. the province of Kharkoff became the high-road of the Tartar invaders of Russia, who, by their long possession of the country, gave many of tiie localities and rivers their present names. But after their great defeat at Kulikovo, in the 14th centy., outposts or posts of observation began to be established on the Klioi>ra and the Don, and later still the watershed of the northern Donets and the Oskol is fre- quently mentioned as the battlefield of the Russians and the Tartars of the Crimea, who, in the latter part of the 15th centy., followed m the footsteps of the more ancient enemies of liussia, the Tartars of the Golden Horde, in- habiting the shores of the Caspian. In the 16th centy. those outposts were pushed on far beyond the confines of the present province of Kharkoff, and a regular fortress, no longer extant, was at last built in 1598 at the junction of the Oskol with the Donets! From that time the country watered by those rivers began to be populated, but dis- sensions with the Poles in Little Russia, and the turbulent events at Moscow that preceded the election of the Tsar Michael, once more threatened to arrest its natural development. In 1638 a disaffected band of Little Russians, then subject to Poland, were permitted to place themselves under the allegiance of the Tsar of Mos- covy, and were by him established at Chuguef. These emigrants were followed by others, who undertook the defence of the southern frontiers of Moscovia, and for that purpose were banded together under a military or Cossack form of government. The pretensions of Poland to this province were renounced l)y a formal treaty in 1647, which considerably increased the emigration from Little Russia, and led to the establishment of many towns, amongst which was Kharkoff, near the junction of the Kharkoff and Lopani rivers. The ancient fortress of Kharkoff was of oak, and round it was a moat two fms. in breadth and depth. Later it was armed with 10 cast-iron guns and 1 of brass, while its ammuni- tion consisted of 8 barrels of gunpowder, 402 shells, and 8 rolls of lead. TJic defence of the town was intrusted t< » a regiment of Circassian Cossacks, who had likewise emigrated to these parts. The dissensions in Little Russia that followed on the death of the celebrated Bogdan Khmelnitsky once more dis- turbed the peace of Kharkoff, for in 1668 the Hetman Briuhovitsky, having raised the Cossacks of Little Russia, summoned all the Cossacks of the Don and of the settlements around Kharkoff to join him in his rebellion against the Tsar of Muscovy, then accused of desiring to transfer the Cossacks to the Crown of Poland. The garrison of Kharkoff refused to join the rebels, who, however, penetrated into the town and besieged the fortress, which was at last relieved from Chuguef. For their loyalty the Cossacks, or regiment of Kharkott; received several privileges and immunities in 1669. In the war that followed they took a prominent part, and, for the defence of their co- lonies, erected a wall between the Kolomak and Mja, and several new for- tifications on the Donets, the principal of which, called Izium, subsequently became head-quartcu's of the regiment, and ultimately gave it its name. Between 1679 and 1680 the Khan of the Crimea broke through the fortifica- tions of Valki, a town 51 v. from Khar- koff, and, after devastating the countiy up to the walls of Belgorod, returned in safety, although pursued and partly beaten by the Cossacks of Kharkoff. 2G0 Route 13. — Poltava. Sect. IT. Ill 1603, 15,000 Taiiars and Janissaries croi^std the borders of the " Kharkoff regiment," and laid waste to the out- skirts of the town, but they wore sub- sequently driven baek with great loss — a victory for wliich the Kharkovitcs obtained a new charter and 2 guns from the Tsar. These inroads were continued even in the ISth centy.. principally be- cause the Cossacks of Kliarkoif' refused to assist Mazeppa or the rebel Bulaviii. Philip Orlik, proclaimed Hetman, in Turkey, after the death of Mazeppa, induced the Khan of the Crimea to invade the colonies of the Cossacks with 50,000 men, who were accompanied in thjit expedition by the Zaporogian Cossacks (or Cossacks from beyond the raj)ids of the Don), and by robber bands formed of the remnants of the defeated followers of Bulavin. The work of j)illage and destruction was continued until 1720, when the Khan witlidrew. No enemy has since molested the in- habitants of Kliarkoif, whose military organization was reformed witli that of otlier Cossack towns in the same pro- vince in 1705, when it was also made the capital of the Ukraine. Trade and prosperity have since esta- blished the importance of Kharkotf, now one of the principal centres of trade in Russia. It has an immense trade in wool, and four fairs are annu- ally held there — the " Krestchenskaya," or Epiphany fair, opened on the 0th (18th) January, being one of the most imix)rtant in Russia. In 1803 goods to the amount of 2i or 3 mil- lions sterling were brought to that lair, the textile fabrics alone representing a value of about a million sterling. The wool sales take place exclusively at the Trinity fair, in June. Btizaars or markets are moreover held on Sun- days, Wednesdays, and Fridays. They are particularly active immediately before Christmas and Easter. Kharkoff is likewise a seat of learn- ing's it possesses a university, founded in 1805, and frequented by 600 students. It is situated in the centre of the town, the principal building having been for- merly a palace of the Empress Cathe- rine II. Tlie scientific collections are kept in that building, but the library, containing 55,000 vols,, is on the other side the street. The Zoological Cabinet contains a valuable collection of the birds of S. Russia and of the fishes of the Black Sea. In the north part of the town is a Veterinary College, conducted on a very liberal scale and well worthy of a visit, as is also the Government Model Farm, about a mile out of Kharkofi*, esta- blished 1847. The environs of the town are very picturesque, and the view from the " Cold ■Mountains," or still bet- ter from the lower part of Ekaterinoslaf- street, is one of the most striking that can possibly be imagined. There is also a large public garden, tiie Chinese pagoda in which was erected at an ex- pense of 30,000 rubles. A i-ailwuy will be completed in 1870 from Kharkott* to Taganrog and Ros- tof, on the Sea of Azof, and it is probable that until then travellers inoceeding to Odessa by the route now being described will have to post from Kharkoff to tiie nearest rly. station ot the line which is being pushed on east- wards from Balta. It must be reserved for the next edition of this Handbook to give a more minute description of one unbroken line of rail from St. Petersburg to Odessa, the present break in that line being between Kursk ang- dan Khmelnitsky, Poltava became a regimentiil town — a character which it lost in 1704 when the Hetmanate was abolished. The battle of 1709 was fought in a plain about 4 m. S.W. of the town. A mound of earth about 40 ft. in height, sm-mounted by a cross, covers the bodies of the Swedes who fell, and serves to mark the centre of the field. An iron colimm in the town itself commemorates the defeat of Charles XII. The present province of Poltava, like that, in great part, of Kursk and Kher- son, anciently constituted the princi- l>ality of Pereyaslavl, later known as the Ukraine. Traces of old earth works and innumemble tumuli are found throughout the province of Poltava: the most considerable of the former may still be seen in the vicinity of Gadiatch, a district to the N.W. of the town of Poltava. It is, however, ditli- cult to distinguish the more ancient ruins from those of a comparatively recent period, due to wars with Lithu- anians, Poles, and Swedes. The Tartars likewise gave many appellations to villages, but these are more generally called after names given to them by the Lithuanians and Poles during their possession of Little Russia. When Guedemin of Lithuania took Kief in the 14th centy., the country in which tlie traveller will now have ar- rived was annexed to Lithuania ; and when the union between Poland and Lithuania was effected in 1380, Little Russia acquired the same civil and religious rights as were enjoyed by the Poles themselves. In 1476 Casimir established Voevodes and Castellains in the towns and villages of the Ukraiue, whose oppression, according to Russian accounts, led to the establishment of Cossack bands who migrated beyond the rapids of tlie Dniepr, and whose descendants are now known as the Za- porogian Cossacks. The new colonies, attacked in their turn by hordes from the Crimea, were forced to unite under a military organization, which was subsequently governed by a Hetman, elected with the sanction of Sigis- mund I., King of Poland, who endowed the Cossacks with lands on both sides of the Dniepr. They were thus divided into the Zaporogian and Ukraine Cossacks, the latter occupying lands in the present province of I'oltava, and partly in those of Kief and Podolia, and consisting of 20 regiments. These military bands soon became the ten or of the Tartars, and later still stood up in defence of their religion, that of the Greek Church, which was endangered by the intoler- ance of the Jesuits. The famous re- bellion under Bodgan Khmelnitski in the 17th centy. resulted in a treaty of peace with Poland in 1050, and led to the annexation of Little Russia to Russia Proper in 1654. The Hetman- ate was preserved until 1764, when the administration was brought into uniformity with that existing in other provinces of the empire. But liittle Russia remained for some time longer subject/ to the depredations of the Tartars, until the Ulcraine line o/ defence was commenced in the reign of Peter the Great along an extent of 400 V. from the Dniepr to the Donets, and finished in 1732. The fortifications and earthworks on that line were de- fended by 20,000 Cossacks, but Little Russia was not finally freed from the incursions of the Tartars until Cathe- rine II. subjected the Crimea to her rule. As a place of trade Poltava occupies a very prominent position among Russian towns, principally on accomit of the fair (Ilyinskaya) held there on the 10th July (O. S.) of each year, and lasting one month. The average value of the goods carried to this great com- mercial gathering is estimated at about 3i millions sterling ; the number of 262 Boute 13. — Kremenchuk — Elizavetgrad. Sect. II. carts which bring tliem from Moscow, Odessa, Kharkoff, Kursk, and Voronej being more than 20,000. Kussian manufactures are much sold, but wool is the great staple of trade. Horses, cattle, and sheep are likewise bought and sold in great numbers at that fair. Poltava has also long been celebrated for its leeclies, found in neighbouring pools and morasses, and despatched across the whole length of the con- tinent for exportation. Kremenchuk, 955 v. from Moscow ; 113 V. S.W. from Poltava. Pop. 36.000. Hotel : tlje Posting-house, tolerable. This pretty and thriving town is situated on the 1. bank of the Dniepr, which, by overflowing in 1820, 1844, 1 845, and 1850, committed groat ravages. The northern part of the town is pro- tected from inundation by 2 dams at Kriushi village. Two other small streams flow through one end of the town, whicli is supposed to have been founded in 1571. It was burnt down in 1663 during the revolt of the Cos- sacks, and two years later it was oc- cupied by a Russian detachment. In 1765 Kjemenchuk was made the pro- vincial town of New Russia, and at that time the celebrated Prince Potera- kin of the Taurida lived there in a palace of which only tlie foundations can now be traced. Fires occurred in 1848, 1852. and 1856. Nothing is left of the old fortress or earthwork built by the Poles in the 17th centy. There are five churches of tlie Russo- (ireek faith, of which the cathedral was built 1813. The finest houses are the Head-quarters of the Inspector of the Cavalry of Reserve and the " In- valides." The Town-hall is in the old Gothic style of architecture. The river runs at a very rapid rate opposite the town, and is passed in ferry-boats. A large trade is carried on hence in tallow, salt, grain, beetroot, sugar, &c. ; and the town is a great emporium of the raw and half-manufactured pro- duce brought down the Dniepr from the provinces through which that river flows, and overland from Voronej, Smolensk, Orel, Kursk, and Little Russia. Between 1859 and 1862 the average annual amount of produce shipped at Kremenchuk was as fol- lows : — Salt 1,375,820 pouds. Grain , , 3^2,248 „ Tallow, candles, and soap . 48.252 „ Wool 21,668 „ Linseed 41,6f<0 „ Fairs are held on the 30th January (during 14 days\24th June (11 days), and 1st Sept. (,10 days); all old style. In 1862 the sales at these fairs amounted to 85,000/., and the value of the goods brought to about 110,000/. The rly. hence to Baltu and Odessa will be open in the latter part of 1869. Steamers ply in summer between Kremenchuk and Kief. Elizavetgrad, 1071 v. from Moscow, and 116 v. from Kremenchuk. Pop. 24.000. Hotel. — As the rly. from Balta will lead to the estal)lishment of better inns, inquire at the rly. stat. This town was founded in 1754 by Colonel Hosvat, a Servian, acting un- der the orders of the Empress Eliza- beth, after whom it was originally called the " Fortress of St. Elizabeth." The fortress was demolished in 1805, Situated on the sloping Steppe de- clivities of the valley of the Ingul, Elizavetgrad has a very pleasing ap- pearance, and is well built. It lias a " Great Perspective '" street, full of shops and a boulevard of white acacias. In tlie suburb of Kovalevka are many houses of the neighbouring gentry. It is separated from the town by a large square, on which stands the so- called palace, inhabited by members of the imperial family whenever they visit the town. Barracks and a riding- school will be found on the same pZace, which is further adorned by a boule- vard of acacias and poplars. Elizavet- grad is a place of great trade in tallow, grain, &c. The most important of the 4 fairs held there is that of St. George (held on the 23rd April, O.S.) the value of the goods brought to it in 1863 having been above 300.000/. A large business is done at it in manufactured goods brought from Odessa, Wilna, and Russia. Route 13. — Olviopol — Balta. 263 Berdichcff. A market is moreover held daily, and the transactions are considerable, particularly after harvest time. There is a large garden be- longing to the government, on the river Sugakley, 2 v. out of Elizavetgrad. It covers nearly 60 acres, and existed prior to the progress made by Catherine II. in New Russia. The tumuli of which the traveller has heard so much throughout his journey southwards begin to be numerous here. The rly. hence to Balta and Odessa will be open in July, 1868. Olviopol, 300 v. from Odessa. I'op. 4000. Hotel — none. Travellers wishing to stay must continue to make the rly. stat. their headquarters. History. — Situated at the confluence of the Siniuha with the Bug (which is here spanned by a fine rly. bridge), Olviopol, although a mean-looking town of wooden hovels, is a place of considerable importance as regards trade, being in the centre of a district abounding in wheat. The rly. from Balta, opened 1868, will considerably add to its importance, which in early days was in a great measure strate- gical. The Siniuha river was in the 17th centy. a Polish boundary, and a little below the mouth of that river, on the island of the Bug, onci; stood the fastness of Cossack sea-robbers, who more than once harassed the Poles, although not without paying dearly for it oil several occasions. In order to put an end to the depredations of the Cossacks, the Russian government re- solved to fortify the course of the Siniuha, and, in 1744, erected some works on the 1. banks both of the Siniuha and the Bug. In 1764 the fortifications became the peaceful re- sort of traders and the seat of a custom- house. The great commercial highway from Poland to Otchakoff passed through it. In 1770 the fortifications were rebuilt, and in 1782 the site was raised to the dignity of a town, and called Olviopol, in memory of the ancient Greek colony on the 1. bank of the estuary of the Bug. The subsequent war with Turkey removed the Russian frontier to the Dniester, and Olviopol lost its military importance. The town now trends for about 5 m. along the 2 rivers, but it has scarcely any streets. Its southern part is frequently inundated by the Bug, which before the construction of the rly .-bridge was crossed with great ditficiilty and danger. About f^ m- from the mouth of the Siniuha are the remains of fortifications. The inhabit- ants of Olviopol are much engaged in carrying wheat in barges to Niko- laef, Voznesensk, and Odessa. Balta, 194 v. from Odessa. Junct. with Odessa— Volochisk line (border of Galicia). Pop. 14,000. Hotels : two, kept by Jews, but very bad. Travellers can wash at the rly. stat. History.— Bsltei is the chief town of a district in the fertUc province of Podolia, watered by the Dniepr and the Bug, and having more than a million acres of land under cultivation. The vine flourishes throughout the Balta district, and the grazing of cattle is pursued on a large scale. In 1 860 it possessed 74,200 head of horned cattle, 11,300 horses, 38,000 sheep, 14,800 swine, and 200 goats. The immense trade in raw products, which is the consequence of such fertility and riches, is principally in the hands of Jews, who constitute half the popu- lation of Balta. Thirteen stations beyond Balta the train will stop at Kulikovo, the rly. stat. of Odessa, for description of which vide preceding route. 264 Boute 14. — Kolomna — Biazan, Sect. II. ROUTE 14. MOSCOW TO VORONEJ, BY RIAZAN, RIAJSK, AND KOZLOF, WITH BRANCHES TO MORSHANSK AND ELETS. This line runs parallol with the railway to Kharkoff and the Azof, and in destined to lie continued to the country of the Don Cojjsacks. It is opened as far as Voronej. Fare to Ria- zan about 12 roubles. The principal towns through which it passes are : — Kolomna, 107 v. (8 stats.) from Mos- cow. Pop. 17,000. BiiJH at station. This town, situated on the rt. bank of Moskva river, is first mentioned by chroniclers in 1177, and until the be- ginning of the 14th centy. it formed part of the principality of Riazan, but it has been annexed to Moscow (of which province it is now a district- town) since 1305. It was frequently ravaged between the 13th and 17th cents. ; in 1287 by the Tartars under Baty ; in 1380 by the hordes of Tokh- tamysh; in 1380 by Prince Oleg of Riazan ; in 1440 by Mahmet. Tsar of Kazan ; in 1525 by the Grim Tartars inider Mahmet Girei ; in 1G08 by the Poles under Lissofski ; in IGOOby the Pretender or Robber of Tushin ; and in IGU by Wladislaus. King of Poland. After the sack of 1525, John the Ter- rible caused the old walls of the town to be rebuilt, and they partly exist to this day. They had a circumference of 2 v., and were 8-5 fms. high, and 2 fms. broad, with 14 towers and 4 gates. The Piatnitski Gate is alone well preserved, having been restored in 1825. Of the towers, those called the Kolomna and Tainitski (Secret) Towers are in a tolerable state of pre- servation. Kolomna was in ancient days the prison of many historical personages. In 1433 Vassili the Dark, the de- posed Ti^ar of Moscow, lived here. In the reign of John the Terrible many of the most distinguished families of Novgorod the Great were exiled to Kolomna, which was also the prison, in 1611, of Marina Mniszek, the wife of the Polish pretender to the throne of Muscovy. In the 16th centy. it was thrice the gathering-point of the Rus- sian legions that marched against the Tartars. In the Ch. of the Resurrec- tion, within the Kremlin, Dimitry of the Don married Eudoxia, Princess of Suzdal. The present Cathedral of the Assumption was built in 1672 on the site of a cathedral built in the 14th centy. by Dimitry of the Don. There are also a convent founded 1552, and a monastery established 1709. In 186G tliere were 16 mnnufactories at Kolomna, of which 3 of cotton goods and 1 of silks. A considerable trade also exists in wheat, salt, timber, and cattle. It is favoured by water com- munication with the provinces border- ing the great Oka river, and by its fluviatile connection with Moscow. Between Kalomna and the next station of Lukliovitsi the train will pass over a fine bridge thrown over the Oka river. Riazan, 185 v. (13 stats.) from Mos- cow. Pop. 25,000. Hotel : Steuert's Hotel in Astrakhan- street, very good. Rooms, 1 r. to 150 c. per day. Riazan is very prettily situated on the small Lybed rivulet, which falls into the Trubej river at the eastern end of the town, and is distant only 2 V. from the banks of tlie Oka. It stands in the centre of a rich agricul- tural district, and carries on a great trade in rye. The province of Riazan, of which the town is the seat of govern- ment, was anciently inhabited by Finnish tribes, one of which, tho Mestchera, still retains some of its characteristics, and occupies a district on the Oka, about 80 v. from Riazan. The Mordva tiibe holds large tracts in tho neighbouring province of Tambof, and its members to this day preserve their characteristic dress and a distinct language. The women of these ancient Finnish races may be known by the ornaments which they Eussia. Boute 14. — Biazan, 265 suspend round the chin, and which principally consist of small silver coins on strings. The town of Murom, so called after another of tho.se tribes, is mentioned as in existence before 862, but the })rincipality of Riazan appears to have Ix^en founded at the latter part of the 11th centy., and to have been tributary to the principality of Murom until the year 1155. Later it fell under tho j)ower of the princes of Vladimir, but regained its independence and enjoyed it until its absorption into the princi- pality of Moscow in the 16th centy. The old city of Riazan, founded in the 11th centy., was destroyed by the hordes of Baty in 1237, and thence- forth Pereyaslavl-Riazanski, founded about the same time (1005), gradually succeeded to its importance, and now bears even its name. The fortifi- cations of Pereyaslavl were rebuilt 1198. In 1294 the tovm. is mentioned in connection with the miraculous voyage of the Bishop of Miu-om on a mantle down the Oka, first to Riazan, then to Pereyaslavl. In the 14th centy. the latter town was the scene f many stirring events connected with the history of Riazan. During the whole of the 15th centy., and until 1517, it was the capital of the Princes of Riazan. Although frequently at- tacked by the Tartars in the 15tli and 16th cents., the town did not suifer as much then as in previous invasions. In 1513 the Ostrog or Citadel was takcii by the Tartars, but they were repulsed from the town. In the 14tli centy. Pereyaslavl was surrounded by a double wall, protected by 12 towers, and a wet ditch. These were extant in 1684, when the town was divided into two parts— the Kremlin and the Ostrog (Citadel). The fonner stood on an elevation at the mouth of the Trubej and Lybed, while the latter in- cluded the space between those two rivers. No trace remains of the ancient fortifications. The Cathedral of the Assumption, on the square of the former Kremlin, was built in 1690, and is, from its great size, one of the most remarkable build- ings in Russia. It was restored in 1800, o and the belfry was rebuilt 1840. Its greatest treasures are 2 " miracle-work- ing "' images or pictures of the Virgin. One of them was brought to the old city of Riazan from Murom by Bishop Vasili in 1291, on the occasion of his wonderful voyage above-mentioned ; the second " appeared to the people " in 1487, in the village of Fedotief : its fete is held since 1618 annually on the 2nd (14tli) July, in commemoration of the deliverance of Riazan from au invasion of the Cherkesses. In the sa- cristy of the cath. is a cup which was gilt in the 17th centy. with the gold signet of Baty, who is reputed to have left it in the monastery of Bogoslof, in this province, on the occasion of his inroad into Russia. The Episcopcd Palace stands near the cathedral. The CJi. of the Nativity was rebuilt in the early part of the present centy., on the site of a very ancient edifice. It contains the relics of the famed Vasili, first Bishop of Murom and Riazan, w^hich were removed hither from old Riazan in 1592. In it are buried Prince Theodore of Riazan, his consort, daughter of Dimitry of the Don (14tli centy.), and his son John ; also his grandson and 2 great-grandsons. The inscriptions on some of the other tombs, now scarcely legible, show that they contain the remains of the Princes Tretny, descendants of Prince Theo- dore. Many of the bishops of Riazan of the 16th and 17th cents, are like- wise buried in this ch., and amongst them Bishop Stephan Yavorski, " De- fender of the Patriarchal Throne." In the sacristy may be seen the panagia or reliquary of Bishop Stephan; a great number of chalices and patens, mostly of the 15th centy. ; the mantle of Archbp. Misail, who perished in his attempt to christainise the Mordva tribe ; halberds, remains of ancient banners, &c. The Monastery of the Transfiguration^ with 2 chs., is of unknown date, but it existed in the middle of the 15th centy. The Con- vent of Kazanshi-Yavlensh' was re- moved to its present site in 1787. The Dukhof, or Monastery of the Holy Spirit, near the Episcopal Palace, was founded in the 15th centy. The date of its 266 Boute 14. — RiajsJc. Sect. II. suppression as a monastery is not known. Excursions. — Some of thu monas- teries in the province of Kiazan are verv ancient. That of Sohtchi, at the junction of the Solotchi with the Okii, 18 V. from liiazan, was founded in 1390 by the celebrated Prince of Riazan, Oleg, the enemy of Moscow, and of Dimitry of the Don, and who subsequently took the cowl there. His remains and those of his consort Eu- praxia, orij^inally buried in a ch. which stood near the monastery, were re- moved in tlie early part of the present centy. to the crypt of the principal cli. wit) 1 in its walls, where also portions of their stone coffins, and of the coat of mail as well as the greaves of Prince Oleg, are deposited. The latter relics are considered to have healing powers, and are allowed to be put on by visitors. The monks will show an ancient image carved in stone repre- senting the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb. The Bogoslofski Monastery, on tlie Oka 25 v. from Riazan, was founded in the early part of the 13tli ceuty., and restored 1534. Within its 2 churches are many ecclesiastical trea- sures, of which the most remarkable is a holy image of John the Evangelist, painted at Constantinople, and pre- sented to the Prince of Riazan. It manifested miraculous powers in 1237. Tradition says that Baty approached the monastery in order to destroy it, but, suddenly struck with awe, he not only spared it, but endowed it with treasure, depositing at the holy image of John the Evangelist the gold signet with which, as we have already seen, the cup shown in the cathedral at Riazan was later gilt. The handle of this miraculous image, preserved in the sacristy, bears an inscription re- lating its history, which is also men- tioned in a charter given to the monas- tery by the Patriarch Adrian in 1692, The monastery of Lgof Uspemki, on the high bank of the Oka, 10 v. from Riazan, was founded by Prince Oleg at the end of the 14th centy. Its ch. was rebuilt 1667. The tombs of the princely family of Stchetinin-Yaros- lafski (of the 16th and 17th cents.), st^nd on the crumbling bank of the river, into which many ancient tomb- stones have no doubt fallen. An excursion may likewise be made to the site of the old city of Riazan, now a village nl)out 50 v. from Riazan, on the rt. bank of the Oka, and 2 v. from the small town of Spask. It is still surrounded by an earthen ram- part on 3 sides, while on the 4th or western side it is protected by the high bank of the Oka. The mounds in tht; vicinity have yielded many archsBologi- cal treasures. A pyramidal monument of cast iron, erected in 1836, marks the spot where the lx)dy of Bishop Vasili rested until its removal to Riazan in 1592. There are many fine estates in the j)rovince of Riazan. We may mention those of Jeludiova and Lakasha (of about 40,000 acres), Ix-longing to ]\lr. Kolemin, 80 v. from Riazan, near th(* town of Spask, and the site of old Uiazan. Travellers who would wish to make themselves acquainted with the Russian system of farming will readily be initiated into the several processes by one of these large i)ro- prietors, to whom an introduction may without much difHculty be obtained at St. Petersburg or Moscow. Travellers bound from the S. of Russia to the fair of Xijni can post from Kiazan to the town of Kasimof, 136 v. distant, in an E.S.E. direction. At Elatma, a small town E. of Kasimof, about 100 v. by jxist-road, but a very short distance across country, tUey will find a steamer which ascends to Murom and Nijni 3 times a week. See Rte. 8, Moscow to Nijni Novgorod. RiAJSK, 109 V. (6th Stat.) from Riazan. Pop. 3000. This town is situated on the Hupta river, which communicates with the Oka by other tributaries. The date of its foundation is unknown, but it existed in 1502. Traces of its ancient earthworks are still visible. The merchants, who carry on a very large trade in grain, tallow, hides, «&c., reside principally in the villages of Ukholova (1st stat. on rly. to Mor- shansk) and Perevles, in the district Bussia. Itoute 14. — 3Ior8hamh — Kozlof. 267 of Riajsk, and therefore the town itself is but little enlivened by trade. It has now, however, acquired consider- able importance by its connection with ^lorshansk. and Riazan. The purchases of grain alone at Morshansk arc estimated at 5,000.000 r. Saturday is the market- day. Hitherto all this produce has been shipped by the Tsna river to St. Petersburg and Moscow, but the rly. is intended to supersede the water communication.] \_Ih'«mch Rdihcoij from Riajsk to MorsJiansk. 'I'rains run several times a day to IMorshansk, distant 121 v. Moscow time kept. MoiisHAN.'-K, on river Tsna, Stat., Top. 20,000. Jlofch: there are several ordinary Russian inns. As the rly. reeontly established may cause some improvement in them, inquire for the best at the stat. History. — The site of Morshansk was given to the Bishops of Riazan in the 17tli centy., and from a village it became a town in 1779. There are 8 chiu-ches, of which the cathedral is a fine modern structure, consecrated 1857. The old cathedral of Sophia was built 1753. The town has been deemed worthy of a railroad on ac- count of its great trade, due to its l»(»sition in one of the most fertile pro- vinces in Russia— Taml)of. Tallow- melting is its principal industry. In I8f)l it had 13 melting-houses, which jToduced 8300 cwt. of tallow. There are aLso a soap-manufactory, a distil- lery, &c. The tallow is principally the produce of the cattle which the merchants of Morshansk purchase in the country of the Don Cossacks, and in the provinces of Astrakhan, Saratoif, and Orenburg, to the ex- tent of 20,000 head of horned cattle, and 100.000 sheep. Large quantities o\' tallow, in small parcels, are also bnjught from other towns, and re- melted at Morshansk. The meat is carried to Moscow. In winter Mor- shansk is visited by merchants from St. Petersburg, Moscow, Yaroslaf, Vladimir, &c., who come to purchase the grain, linseed, tallow, potash, and other produce brought there from the provinces of Tamlxtf, Penza, Saratof, Bussia. — 1868. Route to Voronej coatinueL K()ZLOB% 198 V. from Riazan, and 89 V. from Riajsk. Pop. 30,000. Inn : Rogof's Hotel. This is at the same time the exchange of Kozlof, where most of the transactions in grain are concluded over a cup of tea. History^ &c. — Kozlof is situated on the river Lesnoi- Voronej, and was founded by Joseph, a hermit, in 1627, who was ' joined by other religious men, by whom later a brotherhood was established. Its cathedral was built 1839, and the oldest ch. extant dates only from 1772. This is also one of the great centres of trade in Russia, being in the centre of a black- soil district, rich in grain and cattle. There are 14 tallow-melting houses, 2 soap-works, 7 caudle-works, 3 brew- eries and distilleries, &c. But the principal trade of the town consists in the sale of grain, of which 900,000 chetverts are bought up in the neigh- bouring districts, and despatched to INIoscow. The tallow is the produce of 20,000 head of cattle slaughtered in the town, but a much larger num- ber is driven to Kozlof annually, from the banks of the Kuban and from Little Russia ; the cattle that are not melted down for tallow are sold in INToscow. A large quantity of salted meat is prepared at Kozlof, and there is also a large trade in horses, the province of Tambof, to which the town belongs, being celebrated for its studs. There are no fewer than 36 breeding stables in the district of Kozlof alone. The trade of the town is valued at 4,000.000 roubles, and the railroad will very naturally cause it to in- crease considerably. 268 Boute 14. — Elets — Voronej. Sect. II. Griazi fSrd stat. from Kozlot), on the rt. Matyra, a tributary of the Voronej. This is an agricultural village of 2000 Inhab. A considerable quantity of fish is also caught here. There is a railroad hence in construction (1868) to Elets. The mineral waters (alkaline and ferruginous) of Lipetsk, 8 hrs. drive from Griazi, are much frequented be- tween the 27th May and 27th Sept. Kumyss, or fermented mare's milk, is likewise drunk there. ^Branch to Elets. Elets, on Sosna river. Pop. 26,000. In the 11th centy. this was a fron- tier town of the principality of Riazan. It was destroyed by Baty in the 13th centy., and is not mentioned again in chronicles until the end of the 14th centy., when Tamerlane approached it on his marcli to Moscow, but suddenly turned back towards the mouth of the Don. The town was then governed by its own princes. It was devastated by the Tartars in 1415 and 1450, and was only rebuilt in 1591. During the troubles caused by the appearance of the Pretenders in the 17th centy., Elets was always on the side of the rebels, and in 1618 it was seized by the Hetman of Little Russia. In 1745 it ^yas totally de- stroyed by a conflagration. At present there are 16 chs. in Elets. In the old Cathedral dedicated to the Mother of God are 2 very ancient images of the Holy Virgin, of which one was brought to the town in 1395, and the other was painted at about the same period in commemoration of the invasion of Tamerlane ; it was restored 1779. The Convent of the Apparition of the Holy Virgin is of unknown date. It was burned down 1764, when the nuns were removed to Voronej, but it was re-established in 1822. The con- vent is surrounded by a stone wall with 4 towers. Within it is a fine belfry, of 4 stories. The Monastery of the Trinity J no longer occupied l)y monks (who were removed to the town of Lebcdian, in Tambof, 1775), is sup- posed to have been founded in the 12tli centy. The f(jur small chnpeU arc reputed to stand over the graves of the citizens who fell during the invasion of Tamerlane. The Goslinnoi Dvor is a very fine, large building. A prison on a large scale is being built opposite the monastery. Elets is likewise an important place of trade. It has 10 tallow-melting houses, 14 soap and candle works, 11 tan-yards, and a large foundry. Its principal transactions are, however, in corn and cattle. Bread-stuffs, and particularly winter corn, are brought there from* the provinces of Kharkof, Kursk, Voronej, Tambof, and partly from Saratof. The quantity of winter corn purchased in those districts by the agents of the Elets merchants amounts to 300,000 chetverts a year. This corn, mixed with spring corn, gives an ex- cellent quality of wheaten flour, called after the name of the town, and well known in Russia. There are no fewer than 152 flour-mills in the vicinity of the town. Markets thrice a week.] Route to Voronej continued. Voronej, 496 v. from Moscow, on rt. bank of Voronej, near its confluence with the Don. Pop. 41,000. Hotel : Abramofs Hotel, pretty good. There is also another good hotel near the governor's house. History, etc.— Although the name of Voronej occurs in the 12th centy., yet it is uncertain whether a river or a town is implied. Travellers of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents, omit to mention the existence of a town. At all events, the present town of Voronej, the seat of government of a provinct; bearing the same name, was founded in 1586 by the '' Boyar Mstsislavsky and his comrades." It was an ad- vanced post against the Tartars, and the Russian citizens were called upon in those days to supply horses for Rusaiau envoys to the Crimea, to Russia. Boute 14. — Voronej. 269 Turkey, to the Nogay Tartars, and to the Don Cossacks. In 1590 the town was burned by the Cherkesses, when the Voevod or Governor, Prince Dolgorukof-Shibanofski, was killed. In 1603 and 1604 it surrendered to the Pretenders, and was on each occasion sacked. It nevertheless began to ac- quire importance as a commercial city early in tlie 17th centy. The Tsar Theodore caused a new fortress to be built in 1672. It had walls of oak, 870 fms. in circumference, and 17 towers, besides a dry ditch. In 1676 the Inhab. numbered 5000. But its greatest progress was made under the reign of Peter, who first visited the town in 1694, and establi.shed a fortified dockyard. In 1699 Voronej had a fleet of Gij vessels armed with 2546 cannon, and carrying 16,814 troops. TJiey were built under the superintendence of a Dutch shipwright. Peter Bass. When Peter went abroad he left Ad- miral Apraxin in charge of the naval yard, and on his return frequently visited Voronej. In 1701 the building yard was re- moved to Tavrof. at the mouth of the Don, as the river had become shallow off the town. In 1702 Peter the Great caused 4390 men to be brought here from Archangel. Its bishop, the ca- nonized Metrophanes, having died in 1703, Peter assisted at his funeral. The fires of 1703, 1748, and 1773 de- stroyed all the old buildings. Voronej was the birthplace of two poets — self-educated men — Koltsof and Nikitin. The house in which Nikitin (who was a bookseller) lived is preserved. The two poets lie side by side in the new cemetery. A monu- ment to Koltsof is in course of erec- tion in one of the public promenades. The town stands on a steep height, and consists of three portions, the upper town, lower town, and suburbs. The view from every part of it is truly mag- nificent. The principal street has a fine appearance, its sides being lined with handsome edifices, most of them government buildings ; Moscow-st. is also very fine, and in it are the arch- bishop's' palace and the cathedral. The only building that remains of the time of Peter the Great is the '' Ord- nance house " on an island of the Voronej. On the principal square stands a monument to Peter I., erected 1860. The town possesses a theatre, an hospital, a lunatic asylum, a prison, a government school, and many other institutions charitable and scholastic. The Monastery of Metrophanes was founded 1836, and contains 4 churches. Within the principal ch., built of wood in 1620, and rebuilt of stone in 1735, lie the relics of St. Metrophanes in a rich silver slirine. Voronej is one of the most flourish- ing towns in the S. of Russia, and has a very large trade in corn, linseed, tallow, &c. It has also many tallow- melting houses, candle and soap works, &c. Four fairs are held annually ; the best being those of the 9th May and 29th Aug. (O.S.). Markets are held 3 times a week. Until the rly. is continued from Voronej to the country of tht; Don Cossacks, travellers \\ill have to post across the country to Km-sk, and take rail there for the Black Sea or the Azof. The more enterprising will pro- bably make an excursion down the Don river, the ancient Tanais, which rises in Orel, and runs a course of about 1000 m., or perhaps even embark on a barge for Kalatch, from whence steamers leave twice a week for Rostof and Taganrog. There is also a rly. from Kalatch to Tsaritsin on the Volga. The Don is full of fine stur- geon, and the mode of catching it, and of extracting the caviar, of which such prodigious quantities are eaten, present nmneroas scenes of interest, and aflbrd many instructive subjects of study. This e:icursion cannot, how- ever, be undertaken without a good guide and proper preparation. 02 1270 Bovte 15. — Taganrorf. Sect. n. IJOUTK lo. ST. PETEHSIilRG, MOSCOW, OK MICA, TO TAr.ANUOG AND UOSTOF (SEA OK AZOF), KV KHARKOFF. For routes to Klmrkoif rule \m:- vi<»us lltes. A railway from Kharkoff to Tauaii- rog and Rostof, aBD v. in length, lias l^een oomnienred in 18G8. and will he opened in the fall of 1870. The n.'W line will pass through tlic town (»f Bi\khiuut. JjAKir^iUT, on river Bakhnmt, a small affluent of tlto X. Donets. l*(»p. lO.OOO. TJiis town wius foinided in the latter part of the 17th (tenty., when salt .springs were discovtTed near the river. Th(! .salt-works weni closed in 1782. A fortress was constructed liere in 1703. In 1783 Baklimut was mtule tlie chief town of a district in the piov, of Ekat«'rinoslaf. Large y Polemon, on account of an attempted revolt, and, though afterwards re- stored, it never regained its former prosperity. Later the Gen(x;se settled on the .sami' si)ot, and cidled their town Tana, which was however de- stroyed by Tamerlane in 1305. Th«' site of the ancient Tanais and Tana is now occupied by the town- let of Azof, which was taken by tlu- liussians from the Turks, whosue- ceel. Thus the present province of Ekatcrino.slaf was the scene of the first conflicts Ijetween the Slavonian races and the Tartars, who soon after under Baty committed the most dreadful ravages all over Russia. When the Mongol hordes Kussia. Boute 15. — Taganrog. 271 separated into three independent khanates, namely, those of Kazan, Astrakhan, and the Crimea, the pro- vince of Ekaterinoslaf probably be- longed to the latter khanate. In the latter part of the 15th centy. the Mon- gols were driven out of Russia, and .Tohn the Terrible took from them the kingdoms of Kazan and Astrakhan, leaving them only in pos.scssion of the Crimean peninsula, which they con- tinued to h(»ld under the suzerainty of tln' Turks mitil the reign of Catherine IL The country which they had vacated north (»f the Perekop was then taken [Kissession of by colonists from Little Russia, who formed theuKselves into military brotherhoods under the nana- of Cherkes.ses (Circassians J and Za])oro- gians ; the latter appellation, .signifying •• dwellers Ix'vond the rapids." behig derived from the circumstance of their iiaving fir.st .settled below the rapids of I he Dniepr. They were fretpiently attacked by the Crim or Crimean Tartars, and the possession of the pro- vince of Ekaterino.slaf continued to Ix? tlisputed until the middle of the l8;h eenty., when, after manv eiu^ounters Nvitli the Tnrk.s, the Turco-Tartar holders of the province met with a .severe bli>w in the taking of the fortress of Azof by the troops of Peter the ( ireat in 1 (JOO. The fortress was, how- ever, surrendered to the Turks in 1711 by the convention made on the Pruth. By the Treaty of Belgrade, 1739, the Sultan of Turkey ceded to Russia the steppe-s between the Bug and the Donets. But they were of little u.se luitil the Emj)ress Elizabeth caused iiica.siu'es to be adopted for poi)ulating \ he steppes and checking the lawless- ness of the Zaporogian Cossacks, who n ^ •! »ed friend and foe alike. Georgians. liulg!iri:uis, Wallachians, and Greeks joined the regiments that were formed tor the purpo.se of protecting the then frontier of Russia against the Turks jind Tartars. lietween 1740 and 1750 a large Inniy of Servians, imder Colonel Hor- vat,' dissati.sfled with Austrian rule under Maria Theresa, emigrated to the northern purt of the province of Eka- terinoslaf, and, forming a regiment, established their headquarters in the fortified town of Bakhmut. Tlie Ser- vians were followed by Little Rus.sian^i and Hungarians. Their settlements- were protected by fortifications which were constantly kept in a state of" defence. In 1760 the N. part of Eka- terinoslaf was dotted with militar\ colonies which were called collectiveh Slavo-Servia, of which Bakhmut was the capital. Slavo-Servia was divided into regiments, and these agahi into companies, each having its own chief. Tlu! Empress Catherine, however, caused General Horvat to be remove*] from his command, and the Sluro- Serviaii colonies were converted into the prf»vince of Ekaterinoslaf, with a new form of administration. This lasted until 1768, when Russia went to war again with Turkey, and the Nagay and Crimean Tart;irs, led by Kerim-Girey, devastated the province with fire and sword. Azof, Taganrog, Kinburn. and tlirinoslaf was con- stituted in its present extent under the reign of Alexander I. in 1802. Having tlius traced the history of the province in which Taganrog is situated, it is time to speak of the town itself. Its site was chosen in 1G9G, when Peter tlie Great sent there an engineer to build a harbour capable of containing 200 .small vessels, and to be protected by a fort. In 1G98 the Voevod Tolstoy was ai)i)ointed (lovernor, and the town began to grow in size and imi)ortance ; but a vi.situ- tion of the plague, in 1704, destroyed the greater part of the inhabitants. These were, however, soon replac((l ])y now settlers, principally Ku.ssians, and an emigrant from Kagusa established the first mercantile house, which lasted until 1712, when, in accordance wltli the stipulations of the treaty made with the Turks on the l*ruth, the harbour and fort of Taganrog were levelled with the ground, and the inhabitants removed. In 17G1> a fresh wiir with Turkey enabled Russia to build a new fort at Taganrog, and in 1770 the neighl)ourliood of the old town began to })e populated. Considerable num- Ix^rs of Greeks from the Archipelago and the Mona, most of whom had served under I'rince Orlof-Chesmen- ski, occupied the lands between the northern shore of the Azof and the estuary of the Mius, and now form the principal part of the population of Taganrog. The great event in the modern history of Taganrog is the death there of the Emjjeror Alexander I. (1825) while on a tour of inspection through the southern provinces of the empire. Trade. — Of the three principal ports of the Sea of Azof, Taganrog, Rostof, and Mariupol, the first is the most con- siderable, notwithstanding many dis- advantages, Euch as the shallowness of its roadstead (vessels having to anchor at a distance of 15 to 25 miles from the landing-place), and the absenc(^ hitherto of communication by goorincipalities. AVhen the Slavonians were driven back into Russia, the Lithuanian })rinces hast- ened to take i)ossession of the coast, but they were obliged at last to give way to the Turks and the Tartars, from whom the Russians ultimately conquered their pre.sent domini<»n t>n the Black Sea. After many struggba Kussia obtained, in 1701, from the Turks the province of Otd her favourite Potemkin to be l)iiried in 171)1, but the EmjKTor i'uul ordered his remains to be ex- humed, and to be " buried in a liole under the floor of the crypt, filling the crypt with eartli, and levelling it as if it had never existed." Sucli was tlic vengeance of licr son on the foimder of Kherson. To the English traveller Klierson is of particular interest as the place near which the body of the philanthropic Howard reposes. The- monument to his memory stands near the Ch. of the As- sumption and without the barrier of Kherson. It is a simple pyramid, with poplars around it, and is enclosed by a high circular wall with an iron gate in front. The inscription on it, trans- lated, is as follows : — HOWARD died on the 20th Januarv, in the year 1790, in the 65th year of his age. It is sad to say that the monument is in rather bad repair, and the first letter of the philanthropist's name has been obliterated by some mischievous per- son. His virtues, like his name, have nearly faded away from the remem- lirance of the local inhabitants ; for the yamstchik, if asked to whom the monu- ment has been raised, will in most cases answer, " To Forar, a builder of towns." Contrary to the generally accepted account of the death of Howjtrd from prison-fever, caught in the zealous dis;cljarge of his self- imposed mission, Dr. Clarke relates in his travels that in the month of Nov.* 1789, Howard was requested to visit a 3Ta(hMiioi.selle During, who lived on the ])anks of the Dniepr, at tlie distance of 10 iii. from Kherson, lu a liglit old-fashioned dress, in silk stix-kings, and without a great-coat, he set otf on horseback. The day was windy and coM, and he had a fall l>y the way. He caught a cold, wliich was followed by a fever, and which ter- minated in death. The traveller who wishes to enter the Crimea by way of Peiekop is re- commended to taki; the steamer which leaves Kherson three times a week for the towns on the Dniepr, ascending as high as Nicopol, a town of about 7000 Inhab., with a considerable trade in wheat and hemp. Many INIennonites, descended from those who emigrated to Kussia from Prussia in 1789, f>ccuj>y lands in the vicinity ; their jirincijial colony, however, being on the river Mo- lotchna, E. of Nicopol.* The steamer should l)e left at Uekislaf, on 1. bank of Dniepr. Pop. GOOO. This town was founded by the Turks in alx)ut 1450. In 1090 Peter the (Jreat took the Turkish fortress of Kyzi-Kermen, which stood here. It was called Berislaf in 1784. A third of the population is composed of Jews, who carry on a small trude in wheat and timbi'r. The high road to the * A very interesting description of thofie b.ettlers, and generally of tlie S. of llussia, is given in Pctzholiit'.> ' Heise in Westlicht n und SUdlichen liussland lin Jahre is.'i.^.' T^eipzig, 1861. E ussia. Boute 17. — Odessa to the Crimea. 277 Crimea passes through the town, and the stations between it and Perekop, over a dreary plain, are Kachofka, 5 v. Tchernaya Dolina, 2G v. Tchaplinka, 25 v. Perekop, 82 v. from Bereslaf, and 132 from Simpheropol. Pop. 4000. The isthmus of Perekop, by which the Crimea is connected with the con- tinent of Russia, is about 5 m. broad, and stretches from the bay of Kar- kinite on the side of the Black Sea to the large lake called the Sivash or Putrid Sea, which again communftates with the Sea of Azof by the Straits of Genitchi. The isthmus is defended by an irregular fortress erected on the S. side of a deep ditch, and protected by a high wall built of freestone, stretch- ing right across the isthmus, which rises slightly in the middle. The fosse and the wall are said to have been formed in ancient times by the in- liabitants of the peninsula to defend themselves against the incursions of the nomades of the steppe. The taphros or ditch of the more ancient geographers, and the " new wall " of Ptolemy, lie about 1^ m. S. of Perekop. The town and fortress were founded in the latter part of the 15th centy. by the Tartars. They were taken by the Kussians first in 1736. In 1738 the fortress was retaken by the Russians, and blown up. Khan Krim-Ghirey repaired the fortifications, but the greater part of the inhabitants, mostly Armenians and Greeks, having suffered much from both Russians and Tartars, removed 5 m. S. of Perekop, and founded the colony of Armianski-i3azar, now a suburb of Perekop. In 1771 the lines of Perekop were stormetl once more by the Russians, and the town was finally incorporated with the empire in 1783. At the present time there is a bridge across the fosse, and a stone gateway, which presents rather an interesting appearance as seen from the N. In Armianski-Bazar, which is now the principal part of Perekop, is a mosque with two minarets, and a Russian and an Armenian ch. From Perekop the post-road runs over an arid steppe, and is marked by handsome stone columns indicating the versts, which were placed there when Catherine II. made her memor- able visit to the Crimea in 1787. The stations to Simpheropol are : — Uslmn, 24 v. Dyurmen, 21 v. Aibar, 24 v. At this station the Tchatyr Dagh bursts in view. Ablan, 22 v. Saraljuz, 22 v. Simpheropol, 19 v. For description of this town, and routes leading from it, vide following route. — Odessa to the Crimea. ROUTE 17. ODESSA TO THE CRIMEA BY SEA; EUPA- TORIA TO KERTCH, AND EXCURSIONS THROUGH THE CRIMEA. In summer the steamers of the Rus- sian Steam Navigation Company leave Odessa twice a week for the ports of the Crimea between Eupatoria and Kertch, performing the entire voyage to Kertch in little more than 48 hom-s. On their return they touch at the same ports according to a time-table which is published at Odessa. They are very comfortably fitted up with a ladies' cabin, gentlemen's cabin, and a saloon containing a library and a piano ; and there will generally be found on board 278 Boute 17. — Eupatoria — Sevastopol. Sect. II. an officer speaking English. The liv- ing is good, but tlie charges, which arc inclusive of board, are rather high, the fare first class to Sevastopol being 17 roubles. There are no Custom-house formali- ties to be observed on landing in tlie Crimea, as the steamer will not have touched at any foreign port. The traveller may desire to disem- bark at Eupatorin, which will l)e reached after a voyage of about 16 hours. EupATORiA, 76 V. N.W. of Simphero- pol. Poj>. 7000. History. — This town, famous as the place near wliicli the Anglo- French troops landed on the 14th September, 1854, stands on a sandy spit on the W. shore of the Black Sea. Coronites, a Greek colony, is •mpposed to have existed in the neigh- bourhood in the days of Herodotus, <)r five centuries before Christ. In the 1st centy. of our era, Dioplian- tus, a general under Mithridates, founded here a fortress which he called Eupatoria. At the latter part of the 1.5th centy. the Turks had a fortress at Eupatoria, and its name of Gezleve' was later changed by the Eussians to Kozlof. As Gesleve', it was one of the most flourishing towns in the Crimea. It was occupied for the first time by the Russians under Field-Marslial Min- nich in 1736, and later by the troops under Prince Dolgorukof, 1771. An- nexed finally to Russia in 1783, it was made the chief town of a district in the province of the Taurida. The trade of Eujmtoria is incon- siderable, the exports (com, wool, hides, tallow) not amounting to half a mil- lion of roubles in value. There is nothing to be seen at Eupa- toria except a rather handsome syna- gogue of the KaKiim Jews, who are distinguished from other Jews by their rejecting of the Talmud, and recognis- ing only the Bible as their authority. An old mosque, built after the plan of St. Sophia at Constantinople, is the only other object of interest. It has 14 cupolas, and no minaret. As t!ie steamor gen^rnlly ?romnins about an hour at Eupatoria, the tra- veller, if so minded, can have a look at the town, and, returning on lxi:u-d, continue the voyage to Sevastoi)ol : or he may procure a podnrojna (order for post-horses) and take the overliuid route to Bakhtchesarai and Sevastopol, passing through Saki, 15 v. from Eupatoria, where there are mud- springs famous for their cures in rhcn- matic and paralytic cases, and through Alma, Tauiak, and Burluk, Tartar vil- lages. He may also make an excur- sion hence to the battle-field of Alma, which is more easily reached from Eupatoria than from Bakhtchesarai. For description of Alma, vide Excur- sion 4 (Bakhtchesarai to Simphentpol), and for that of the Imttle, Historical Notice. Although this route would be preferred by a native traveller, the English or American tourist >vill find it easier to land at Sevastopol, and still better at Yalta, and to make ex- cursions to Bakhtchesarai, and o+h»^f places from thenc'i?. The steamer takes about t* hours t*. j)r(X»e<'d from Eupatoria to Sevastopol, near S.W. point of tin- Crimea, 38 m. S.W. of Simpheropol, 190 m. S.E. of Odessa, and 340 m. N.E. of Constantinople. Pop. 8O0O. Uoteh: Wetzel's, on tlie S. side, clean and comfortable. The landlord, a German, speaks English. The charges are 1 rouble per diem for a room, and the other items are not dear. The house connnunicates with the Boule- vard, from whence a capital view of the town, harbour, and various creeks may be obtained. Tlie house was for- merly the residence of Admiral Xak- himof. Kyst's Hotel, second best ; likewise near the landing-idace. Vehicles. — These are rather scarce and dear. The fare within the town is 50 copecks per hour. The charge for a drive to Inkerman and other places in the vicinity is a rouble and a half the first hour, and 75 copecks for the remainder of the time. A bar- gain mav. however, be struck for G to 8 roubles a day for a drojky and a pair of horses. The driver will begin bv asking 10 roubles. Riding- Hussia. Boute 17. — The Crimea. 279 horses may also be procured. As Sevastopol is much frequented in sum- mer, the traveller will easily find a party of his own countrymen bent on the same excursions as himself, and ready to share their cost. Guides. — These will be obtained at the hotel. Spiro, who has been placed in charge of the English graveyards, knows the position of all those sad mementoes of the war. He speaks Italian, Russian, and Greek, but his English is very imperfect. Several Jew factors will oifer their services, as well as carriages and saddle-horses. The proprietor of the hotel is always ready to arrange these matters for tmvellers. History. — Before learning the his- toi-y of Sevastopol, the traveller will desire to have a general sketch of the history of the peninsula itself. The Crimea, or the Taurida, an- .•iently called the Khersonesus Tau- rica, is a peninsula in the Black Sea, occupying an area of 564 aiuare geo- graphical miles exclusive of the Si- vash or Putrid Sea, by which it is almost cut oft' on the E. and N. from the Rust,ian continent. It is one of the few parts of Russia that were known to the ancients, and the first mention of it is in connection with the expedition of the Argonauts and the Trojan War. The remoter inhabitants of the peninsula were the almost fabu- lous Cimmerians, and then the Tauri, who are supposed by some authorities to have lived in the caves which are still to be seen on the hill-sides a))out Inkerman. Stone monuments, similar in character to the druidical rem-iiins in other parts of Europe, are likewise attributed to the same people, who were driven back to the hills by the Scythians who came down from the north, and eventually became known as the Tauric Scythians. The Greeks, who, as we have already seen at Kherson, established their colonies along the shore of the Euxine about the 6th centy. B.C., kept up a continual warfare with the abori- genes. In the 1st centy. a.c, Mithri- dates the Great, the famous King of Pontus, defeated the Tauric-Scythians, and made the Greek colonies of the Taurida subject to his rule. He was compelled to put an end to his life (A.D. 63) by his son Pharuaces, who, having hastened to make his submis- sion to Pompey, received from him the kingdom of the Bosporus, with the titles of friend and ally of the Roman l)eople. It was after a battle gained later by Ctesar over Phamaces near Zela (in Asia Minor) that the former wrote the celebrated despatch to the Senate of Rome, — '-Veni: Yidi : Vici." At the downfall of the Roman em- pire, Taurida, with its G reek colon ie.-. became part of the Empire of the East. The great migration of nations threw a certain number of Huns into the peninsula, which was later occupied by the Khazars. At the same time the greater part of the seabord re- mained in the hands of the Byzan- tines. In 988 Vladimir Prince of Kief conquered Khersonesus. and tliere embmced the Christian religion, whicli had been only partially intr*»- duced into Russia by Olga his grenr^- mother in 955. Next came tJje Polovtses, and lastly, in the l:>th centy., the greater part of the penin- sula was conquered by the Tartar.^. During the same age, however, tlie Venetians and Genoese penetmted to the Black Sea, and founded colonies on its coast. Their principal settle- ment was Kafta, now called Theodo- sia. The Genoese were strong enoug 1 1 to keep the Tartars in check until liie 15th centy., when the latter con>ti- tuted themselves into a distinct "Horde," and placed themselves under the suzerainty of the Turks, who had by this time taken Constantinople. By a common efibrt, in 1475, they put an end to the dominion of the Genoese in the Tam-ida. The Turks established themselves at the seaports, and the Tartars occupied the hills and the interior of the peninsula. The Tartar city of " Eski-Ki-im." now called " Stary (old) Krim," 23 v. from Theodosia, was a place of great celebrity even in the 14th centy., and the Horde continued to exist under the dynasty of the Ghireys until the end 280 Boute 17. — Sevastopol, Sect. II. of the 18th centy. The traveller will liave read in many pages of this Handbook of the dreadful incursions of the Crimean and other Tartars, and how they overran and held a considerable part of South Russia. Tlie troops of Catherine II. began to drive them back in 173G, and in 1771 General Dolgorukof occupied the whole of the peninsula with liis army, and caused Sliagin Ghirey to be elected khan under the suzerainty of Russia. Kertcli and Ycnikah- were then wiested fiom tlie Turks bv the Treaty of Kuchuk Kainardji, 1774. In 1782 the Tartars rose against their khan, the vassjd of Russia, and the Turks endeavoured to regain possession of the i)onin- sula, which was thereupon occupied by the Russian troops, and formally annexed to the empire on tlie 20tli April, 1783. Some of the descendants of the old khans are now ofHcers in the Russian army. One of them was educated in Scotland, and married a Scotchwoman. In 1784 the peninsula constituted the province of Taurida and in 1802 it was made a " govern- ment," a term which has been through- out this book rendered by the word "•province." Ever since its annexation to Russia the Crimea has been an object of great solicitude to the Russian government, and, on the ccimpletion of the rlys. now in course of construction, its im- portance will still further ])e in- creased, notwithstanding the present powerless condition of Sevastopol. The want of water is a great draw- back to the Crimea, It is intersected by 49 small rivers and rivulets, but all of them are so small as to be fordablo except after the melting of the moun- tain snows, or a very heavy fall of rain. There are about 400 salt lakes, of which the richest in salt arc those near the Perekop. Vegetation is only luxuriant in the hilly parts of the Crimea. The oak, beech, and pine cover all the hill-sides, wliile in the valleys and on the S. coast the laurel, cypress, and many acclimatized species abound. The fruit of the Crimea is celebrated, and its vinevards now yield an average of 27,000 hogsheads of wine (600,000 vedros). Although wheat, rye, and other corn are grown, agriculture is not so generally pursued as cattle - grazing and sheep - farm- ing. Merino sheep were introduced in 1804, and the breed has been well kept to this day. The climate of the peninsula is very healthy, except in some of the valleys, where the air does not circulate so freely, and its mean annual temperature is as fol- lows : — SiniplifTopol + 7*^ 7' I L (about 48° F.) .Sevastopol + UP 0' 11. (aJxjUt 55° F.) The mean temperature of those j>laces in summer is severally -h lo'^ 6' and + 18^ 1' R., or 07" and 73^ F. The annual rainfall at Simpheropol is 14'83 inches, and at Sevastopol 707 inches. But to revert to Sevastopol. Its history, prior to the memorable siege, may be told in a very few words. When the Crimea was annexed to Russia, Catherine ordered an expedi- tion to ])e sent round the coast for the purpose of surveying the bay of Ak- tiar, or " Wliite Rock," where the Tartars had a small village. Vice- Admiral Klokachef entered the bay with the Azof tiotilla, which he com- manded, and, having reported favour- ably of its capabilities, Rear-Admiral Mackenzie, one of the many English- men in the Russian service, and later Colonel Upton, were charged with the construction of a military harbour. With great activity the former con- structed barracks, storehouses, a navy yard, and an hospital, the materials used in their construction being the historical stones of Khersonesus. In 1784 the empress ordered the port to Ijo called Sevastopol.* * A note to Mr. H. D. Soyniour's work says, — " 8('vastoi>ol or Sevastopcjlis, is composed of two Grifk words ' Sebiustos,' moaning; Augustus, and 'polls,' a city; and it was tht* name of a CJreek city of the Lower Kmpireon the eastern coast of the Black Sea in Abkhazia." Dr. Charnock is of opinion that the name means "Jjovereipn" or " most sacred city." In his work entitled ' Local Etymology,' I^ndon, 1h58, the etymology of many Russian geographical names will be luuinl. Russia. Boute 17. — Sevastopol. 281 In 1787 she passed two days there together with the Emperor Joseph II., who had accompanied her from Kherson. At a great outlay of money, Sevastopol became, under successive sovereigns, one of the finest mihtary harbours in Europe. The traveller will now jiroceed to inspect its ruins. A large bay divides Sevastopol into two parts — the northern and the southern. On the left or northern side the traveller will see, on steaming up the biiy, some of the fortific^itions, and i)articularly the gigantic Fort Constantino, of 3 stories. There also will be seen a few houses and build- ings, which have for the most part been raised during and since the war. The town lies on the rt. side of the narrow creek on the S., which runs parallel with the great or northern bay. On the 1. or Korabelnaya side of the creek were once the docks, barracks, hospital, &c., now a mass of ruins. The steamer will bring up at the entrance of the southern creek, near to what was formerly known as the "Grafskaya Pristan," or "Count's Landing Place " — broad stone stairs, leading down to the water's edge, with a pavilion above, formed of 2 rows of wliite columns, covered in at the top. A splendid view of the sea is obtained from the top of these stiiirs, and if the night be moonlit the tourist will be attracted to the spot by the wonderful Ijeauty of the scene. Near the stjurs will be seen the ruins of Fort Nicholas, which once had 3 ranges of bastions, one alx)ve the other, and was mounted with 200 cannon, the fire of which was intended to cross that of the batteries of the Admiralty. A short distance from here are the two hotels already mentioned, and the office of the Russian Steam Navigation Company. On landing, the traveller will find himself surrounded by ruins. The first object that will strike him will lie a badly designed Monu ment tu Kazarski, a Russian naval commander, who, in 1828-29, captured 2 Turkish frigates which had attacked his brig. It stands on the Boulevard, at the end of which will be seen the walls of a large house, once the " Assembly Hall of the No- bility.*' Past the boulevard (on which the traveller will find a restaurant) the town continues to present itself in a mass of ruins, with here and there a house rebuilt. Not fur from the end of the boulevard, on a slight elevation, is a large 0/i., dedicated to St. Vladi- mir, in course of construction. In it are buried the Russian admirals, Lazaref, Kornilof, Istomin, and Nak- himof. The first-named died 3 years before the siege. A moniunent to the 3 defenders of Sevastopol will be erected later within the ch. The town spreads along the whole of the southern bay, and rises gradually towards the S. Beyond its further houses begin the ruins of its fortifica- tions and batteries, the trenches of the besiegers, their exploded mines, &c. Most of these works have been filled up and levelled, but it is still easy to distinguish where the Russian earth- works and bastions terminated, anl. crossing the valley of the Alma. 5. Sevastopol to Alupka, through the valley of Baidar. G. Alupka lo Yalta, through Li- vadia. 7. Yalta to Alushta. 8. Alushta to SimpherofX)l, and ascent of the Tchatyr-Dagh. 9. Simp}ieroi>ol to Theodosia, vij. Karasu Bazar and Stary-Krim. 10. Alushta to Theodosia and Kericl .. Some travellers will prefer makin*.- Yalta their headquarters, going there direct: by steamer in 30 hrs. froro Odessa. Tlie excursions would then be: — 1. from Yalta to Sevastopol; 2. from Sevastojtol to Bakhtchisarai, by way of Mangup Kale; 3. thenee tt. Sin'ipheroi)ol ; 4. back to Yalta by way of the Tchatyr-Dagh; and 5. Yalta to Kertcli. The information conveyed in the following sketches of the excur- sions from Sevastopol will, howev(^r, enable the traveller to take the Yalta route should he prefer it. 1, — The Jiritixh Cemeteries. In order to assist the traveller in finding these, we cannot do y>etter than refer him to the following extract from a Rei)ort made to H. M. Govern- ment by Mr. Consul Eldrige in Nov. l.SGl.* "The number of cemeteri«s of British officers and men who fell during the war of 1854, 1855, and 185t>, which I have been able to dis- cover in the neight»ourhood of Sevas- • The Roport, printed by H. M. Government, gives luj alpliabetical list of the officers and privates whose names are recorded on the monuments, and also shows in what group eacli monument is to be louud. Russia. Boute 17. — KJtersonesiis. 283 toix)l, Balacla\a, Kadikoi, Karani,and Kamara is 126 ; they are spread over a space of ground measuring about 12 m. from E. to W., and about 8 m. from N. to S., and they extend in the form of an amphitheatre from the heights of Inkerman, passing through the old camps of the British army, near the Briti.>h headquarters, towards the monastery of St. (ieorge, through the villages of Karani, Kadikoi, and Balaclava, to Ivamara. They contain nearly GOO monuments of various kinds, from handsome marble slabs, obelisks. &c., to humble wooden crosses and lx»ards: of these latter many have fallen down, and still more have their inscriptions efi'aced by the effects of time and weather ; of these no descri])- tion has been taken, or of the smaller stones from which the inscriptions have disappearetl." In order to identify the several eemeteries, Mr. Consul KMrige has divided them into the following groups from A to K : — '• Group A includes the cemeteries on the northern slope of the field of Inkerman towards the river Tchernaya, and contains 12 ceme- teries. Group B includes those im- mediately on the field of the battle of Inkerman, from the monimient to where the Second Division was en- camped in Nov. 1854, including the graveyard of the 41)th Regiment in a small* ravine to the right, and it con- tains 8 graveyards. Group C includes the graveyards in the immediate vi- <'inity of the old windmill, so well known to all who were in the Crimea ; this group contains G graveyards, (jroup D extends from the trenches in front of the Redan, through the eamp of the Light Division to beyond the military road, and may be said to be bounded to the E by the Victoria Re- doubt, and to the W. by the Wctronzoff" Road, and includes 12 cemeteries, (iroup E comprises the cemeteiies in the ravine that runs through the camp of the Second Division from the "NVo- ronzoft' Road to the railway; it is bounded to the N. and E. by the Woronzoif Road, and to the W. by Cathcart's Hill, and contains 11 grave- yards. Group F, or Cathcart's Hill group, embraces the whole of the ground occupied by the camps of the Third and Fourth Divisions, and by the Naval Brigade ; it contauis 23 cemeteries. Grou]) G runs along the heights overloijking the plains of Bala- clava, past headquarters, towards the monastery of St. George, and contains 10 cemeteries. Group II commences in the plains of Balaclava, includes the villages of Kadikoi and Karani, to the monastery of St. George, and in- cludes 24 graveyards. Group I com- prises the immediate neighbourhood (»f Balaclava; there are 15 graveyards in this group. Group K comprises the positions occupied by the High- land Division at Kamara in 1855 an«l 1856, and numl)ers 4 cemeteries. In addition to the above 10 groups, there is a graveyard used by the fleet on the N. side of Kazatch Bay, which by its isolated position could not be classi- fied with the other cemeteries." 2. — Drive to Kliersonesui^. French Ceme- tery, Monastery of St. Ceorge, and Balaclava. This will be a long day's work, and the tourist must start early. He will tirst cross a sniall v;Jley which runs up from one of tiic creeks, and then turn round the i.ead of what was formerly *" Quarantine Bay." On the road thence to Khersonesus. which is only a]x)ut 8 m. from Sevastop >] , a large cemetery will be passed. This was the burying-ground of the Russians before the Crimean war, and it re- mained in the hands of the French during the siegt;. A large ch, stan«U in the centre of it. A little beyoml, the tourist will come to some ancient wells with which the history of the ruins l^efore him is intimately con- nected. Khersonesus. This ancient city took its name from the small peninsula on which it stands, and which was called by the ancients the Khersonesus Heracleoticus. The peninsula was called Heracleotic because its famous citv was built 7 cents, before Christ 284 Route 17. — Khersonesm. Sect. II. by colonists from Heraclea, a town on the opposite coast of the Black Sea.* This little peninsula of a peninsula is liij^li and rocky, and is on tliree sides .surrounded by water, while on the land side it is cut oft' from the rest of the Crimea by a low valley running between Inkerman and Balaclava. A wall which marked its limits may still b<^ traced runnin.2: from the Tcher- naya Retchka, a little above Inkcr- nuin, to Balaclava, for a distance of T) m., at tlie feen extracted from Mr. H. ]). Soymour's work ' Russia on the Black Sea,' which the traveller wishing to study the Crimea should not fail to read, Stimulated by the success of the Milesians, who had established them- selves on tlie small peninsula of Kertch, the Heracleans endeavoured on their side to found some colonies in the Crimea. They turned to the western part of the Tauric peninsula, and dis- embarked not far from the celebrated Capo Parthenike, and, having beaten aii'. a traveller visited the city, which was then called Sari-Kerman, or the Yellow Castle, on account of the yellow colour of the ground, and asserts that it had then been uninhabited for many centuries. The ruins, however, ofwhat he calls this '' proud, delicate, and illustrious city," were then wonderful. The wall and its towers, built of enormous blocks of hewn stone, were perfect, and a beau- tiful aqueduct still brought the purest water. The palace of the kings, itself as large as a city, with magnificent entrance gates, continued to exist. The churches were despoiled because of their valuable marbles, and the largest Greek monastery alone re- mained entire. What the Turks and the Tartars had, however, spared, was taken by the Russians when they built Sevastopol. Sailors were sent to col- lect materials, and no ancient remains were respected. The walls and fine gateways which still existed were pulled down to build the Quarantine, and when the Emperor Alexander I. issued orders to stop this vandalism 128G Route 17. — Khersonesus. Sect. II. the ruin of everything precious had been eonsummated. It is true that the liussinn govern- ment had previously oommissioned an officer to excavate whatever .seemed of interest in the ruins, and lie began by the churches, three <»f which he un- covered, but the last remains of works of art which were then collected by liieut. Ivrnso, with persevering in- dustry, disappear«'d after a detach- ment of soldiers liad been lodged in the ruins for a few years at the time of the plague. After tliis historical jnclnde, neces- sarily short, the traveller may be ushered in among the ruins. The i'entre of attraction will be the ch. wJiich is being built over the ruins of the ancient cathedral of Khersonesus, erected by the piety of Yladindr, in memory of his taking the city, and of his own conversion to Christianity, ft iiiny liave iK^en originally tlu; site ofthe'Chureh of the lloly Mother i>f (fod, in which the j^rince was baptized and married. When the cathedral was discovered, the remains of a semi- (rircular apse were visible, and columns of a fine white crvstalline marl»le, striped with blue, showed in the nave (rf the edifice the })ositions of the transepts and the dome, (ireat By- zantine crosses ornamented the capitals of the columns and many parts of the interif>r. The whole exterior wall remained to about the height of 13 or 4 ft., and within its precincts Lieut. Kruse collected all the columns and other remains that were found, the greater part of which were drawn out of the crypt. The ruins were unfortunately in- jured by the French, who later placed a guard on them; but what remained f>f the ancient edifice has been covered in by the new wall. The marble shib on t he altar of the new ch. belonged to the original edifice. To the 1., on descend- ing into the town, and close tf) this eh., was the market-place, easily rc- trognised by the heaj) of earth in the shape of a great tumulus, and with which an interesting story of ancient days is connected. In the year 334 or 330 A.D., Assander, the last King of the Bosporus, asked in marriage for one of his sons the daughter of I.a- machus, the Stephanophorus or chief magistrate of Khersonesus, the most powerful man in the town, famous for his riches in gold, silver, slaves, serv- ing-women, horses, and lands. He also possessed a house with four courts, occui)ying all one quarter of the town, lying near the exterior part of flic Bay of 8oses (now Strelet.ska Bay), where he had a private door pierced in the walls of the town, which is the only one that now remains entire. Four magnificent gateways guarded the a})proae]ies to his house, and eaeli herd of oxen and cows, horses ami mares, sheep and asses, returning from i>a.-,ture, had its own particular entrance and stables. (ilycia, the daughter of Lamaehns. married the eldest son of Assander, under the express condition that] hu sliould never return to Tant icapa}uni, to visit his father, not «veii at the h(»nr «if his death. After two years Lamachus died, and Glycia, the following year, wished, according to the general cus- tom, on the anniversary of her father's death, to give a grand feast to all the people of Khersonesus, her riches l)eing sufficient to jnovide them all with wine, brt-ad, oil, mejit. poultry, and fish ; and she pr«>mised to reia-w this festival each year. Her husband, deeply vexed at such prodigality. i»re- teiuled to praise her filial afieetion, but secretly determined to revenge himself by seizing tliis (►ccasion to hatch a plot against the town, the citizens of which had infiicted many injuries on his ancestors, the kings «>f Bos]X)rus. He wrote to his father to send him, from time to time, a dozen young Bosix^rians. .strong and active, wi)o were secretly intnjtluced intf» tla- vast palace of Lamachus, by the little door near the liay of Soses, and waihd in concealment for the next anniver- sary, in order to seize the town, and massacre the j>eople, overcome by wine and good cheer. A lucky accident caused the trea- chery to be discovered. On the eve of the feast, one of the servants of Glycia, having disobeyed her mis- Russia. Route 17. — KJursonesus. 287 tress, was shut up in a distant cham- ber, which liapi)ened to be just above tliat in which the Bosjxjrians were concealed. The loss of her spindle, which rolled into a hole near the wall, induced the girl to lift up a s(piare of the floor in search of it. 81ie then saw the Bosporians assembled, and hastened to inform her mistress. Glycia then sent for 3 delegates from the town, and, having made them swear that, in recompense for her patriotism, they would, contrary to established custom, bury her inside the town, she communicated to them the astounding news, and gave them directions ,how to act. She made them celebrate the festival gaily, as if nothing was to hapi)en, and only bid each man pre- j)are some faggots and torches. Then, having drugged her husband's wine, and escaped from the house with her maids carrying her trinkets and gold, she ordered the faggots to be piled round the house, and fired. an«l thus made all the traitors perish in the Hames. The citizens of Khersonesus wished to rebuild the house of Glycia at the public expense, but this she strongly opposed, and, nn the contrary, caused them to heap up every kind of filth and refus«^ on the place stained by treachery, which was ever after called " the Den of Lamachus." This monument, more indestructible than brass or marble, is still there, and, without knowing the story of Glycia, the stranger is astonished to find the rubbish of all the towns piled on the top of the plain which borders Stre- letska Bay, in one of the finest situa- tions of Khersonesus. On passing through the little door, which is near the landing-place outside the walls, the remains of a mole are still to be seen below the level of the water. Two statues of brass were raised on tlie public place in honour of Glycia, in one of which she was represented modestly and carefully attired, receiv- ing the 3 deputies of the^ town, and in the other she was clothed in war- rior garments, in the act of avenging the l)etrayed citizens. At the time when Oonstantine Porphyrogenitas, Emperor of Constantinople (a.d. 9 11- 959), wTote the account from which this has been extracted by Mr. H. D. Seymour (' Russia in the Black Sea,' p. 155), every citizen considered it his duty to keep clean and bright the inscription which the gratitude of the city had caused to be engraven upon her monument. The remains of a large palace stand on one side of the small street leading to the market-place, which is doubt- less one of those which Nestor men- tions as being near the Ch. of the Virgin. Among the ruins the tra- veller will see crosses of wood recently erecte. — Sevastopol to Jialhrhisarai, ^hiksIikj throutjh the Vatley of Inkerman. The traveller may either perform this journey on horseback, or in a post- cart, providing himself first with a podorojna, or order for post-horses. The first plan necessitates the leaving of his luggage at ^Sevastopol, unless arrangements can be made for its being safely forwarded. These are details which must be left to circumstances, and to the discretion of the traveller. It is, however, necessary to premise that the road which he is about to take is the worst in the whole penin- sula. The road from Sevastopol to Inker- man is only about 4 m. in length, but very fatiguing. In order to avoid the numberless ravines which cut up the Khersonese, a circuitous route must be tak(;u, and it is hardly ix)ssible to cross in a stniight line. Scarcely has the descent l)een made to the bottom of one Russia. Bouie 17. — Lilcerman. 291 ravine, by a very steep declivity, than an equally precipitous ascent must be made at the other side ; and the route has nothing picturesque, except some poor ruins scattered here ami there among the rocks. The Valley of Inkeumax, tlrrough which flows the river Tclurnava, begins about 4 m. from Sevastopol, and is formed by 2 limestone chains, full of fossils, of which one runs along the northern, and the other along the S. shore of the bay of Sevastopol. Approaching each other at al)out a mile above the mouth of the Tcher- naya, they form a valley, rich in pas- tures. On the rt. bank of the river the chain terminates in two jK-rpendi- cular cliffs, of which the right is pierced l)y a great immber of caverns or crypts of every variety and size, arranged in irregular tiers of nearly half a mile in length. They are sup- l)0»ed to be the work of the ancient Tauri. On the summit of the other cliff' arc the ruins of the castle of Eupatorion (later called Theodori), built by Diophantes, the general of Mithridates, who was sent to helj) the Khcrsonians agiiinst the Tauro- Scythians a little before the birth of Christ. From this castle Dio]»liantes made a communication with the other side, by filling up the valley with earth, and leaving a passage for the river by a bridge with 3 arches, of which one remained in 1834, and the bank itself is perfectly preserved. The name of Inkerman is derived from them, its meaning in the Tartar language l)eing " a town of caverns." In 157s Greek inscriptions and heraldic bearings of the Greek princes of Theodori were still to be seen over the gates. On the southern side of the same rock is an ancient cavern-church, with its columns, choir, and sarcophagi complete. The more complicated crypts on the S. sidi- of the rock have many rooms, and all, except the prin- cipal chamber, have ledges of stone which were once used as l)eds. The doors were of wood; the ceilings rise to a point ; and in the centre of the Hussia. — ISCS. floor there was a hole 1^ ft. deep, and 2 ft. across, which was the fireplace and the oven. In some places, from natural causes, the rock has given way, and carried down whole stages of crypts, with the pas- sages and staircases of comnmnication between the various stories, and Lieut. Kruse, whose labours in connexion with Khcrsonesus have been men- tioned, blew up vast numbers of the crypts for the purpose of supplying stone, under a contract for the public buildings of Sevastopol. On the opposite sitlc of the valley, on the left bank of the river, the hill-side is like- wise full of crypts. In the vicinity of the mountains, partly covered with brushwood, and partly laid bare, arc quarries of ser- pentine and marble, which were worked during the construction of ancient Khcrsonesus. The Ilomans sent their convicts to work in these (juarries. Amongst the num1)er was I'ope Clement I., who was after- wards put to death, a.d. 102, for converting his fellow prisoners to Christianity. A ch., which at a later l)eriod was built in the rock, and de- dicated to St. Clement, still exists. Here also are some wells dug by the Greek princes. One of them, situated a])ont 50 fathoms above the valley, in the centre of the old fortress, is very remarkable. The aqueduct, 12 m. in length, which runs along the valley, find pierces the rock for a distance of about 1.50 fms., was built in 1832-.33, for the pnq)0se of supplying the docks of Sevastopol with fresh water. In the direction of Tchorguna and Mangup is a layer of fuller's earth, 2 ft. in thickness and grey in colour, accom- l)anied below by talc. It is used as soap, and is even exported to Constan- tinople. The famous heights of In- kerman are on the 1. bank of the Tchernaya, near its mouth. For de- scription of the battle vide Historical Xotij'o. Passing through the valley of In- kerman, the road — a very bad one — first ascends and then dt^scends again into the valley of the Belbek, which, after a N.W. course of 50 v., falls into 292 Eoute 17. — BalcJichtsaraL Sect. II. the Black Sea N. of the bay of Sevas- topol, llerc tlie first stat., 24 v. from Sevastopol, is reached. It is the Tartar villa,ii:e of Duvankoi (Pop. 1100), prettily sitiiati^d on the rt. Lank of tlie Belbek. Thence the road crosses the plain and the river Katcha to Bakhchisarai, a distance of lii versts. Bakhciiisakat, on river Chirink- su, 30 V. from Simpheropol. I'oj). 13,000. Accommodation . — Tra vellors prov id- Q(\. with, ix podorojna are entith'd to a lodcrinir in the rulace of the KIt(ni>i, where, iiowever, he will only hnd a divan to lie ujwn. Everytliinij: in tlie way of food he innst provide for him- self, either by brin,i::ing it with iiim, or by obtaining it at a Tartar eating- liouse. The old soldier who acts as porter will snpply water and towels. Guides, ttc. — The Ciceroncs are all Russians, but the P]nglishman will generally be fortunate enough to meet with some Russian inhabittmt of the place able to speak French or (Jerman. It will be best, however, to ol)tain at Sevastopol or elsewhere a letter of in- troduction to tlie commandant, who resides in the palace, and also, like all Russians, says an experienced traveller, will be delighted to attbrd any assistance to the stranger. Horses. — There is no lack of these for hire. Avoid a Tartar saddle, for English ones are to be obtained. History, , and which has been rendered famous by the verses of the Russian l>oet Pushkin. The inscription on the founfciin stntes that it was erected in IT")!), by Khan Krim Ghirei, in li(»nour of Diliarah Bikeh, a Geor- gian, burie^ of a Tartar princess, are the lions which are shown to strangers; but there is nothing remarkable in them, and the time will be more profitably spent ill rambling about the ruined houses and strong walls of this strangely situated city, and in inspect- ing the subterranean town which has been cut under the fortress. The de- scent on the other side is by a winding series of broad stairs amid the dwell- ings which here, as everywhere in the Crimea, have been hollowed out in the rocks. The Monastery of the Assumption is passed on the way back. It is built on the site of the ancient Mariampol, the inhabitants of which town emi- grated to Mariiipol, on the Sea of Azof. The monastery, or rather a portion of it, is placed high up amid the clifts, and some of the chapels are excavated in the rock. Here the tra- veller will be able to judge how the old crypt towns looked before they p 2 294 Itoiife 17. — Mangiip, Sect. II. I Russia. Boutc 17. — Baidar, 295 were (Icscrtod, Many white crosses mark the tombs of rich Greeks, whose b(Klies liave been brought from various parts to bo buried in this sacred ground. The hire of a horse for this excur- sion ought not to be more than a ruble and a half, and the gratuity to the guide 30 kopeks. From Bakhtchisarai the traveller should make an excursion to the rock of Mangup, which will be seen rising to a height of upwards of a thousand feet E. of the town. Every accessible place in the vicinity is fortitied with walls and towers. One valley, called the Tabana De'reli, is fortitied by a wall and 4 towers, and contains several stages of crypts and a tine spring of water. On the top of the plateau are the remains of a Byzantine Greek ch., to the left of which is a mosque and a Turkish cemetery. In the Acropolis are the remains of a line palace. It was in this house that the Khans several times shut up the INIoscovite ambassadors, and made them suffer a severe captivity. It is a memento of the Gothic liukes of ^Mangup, and perhaps, as a solitary memorial of the architecture of the Goths in the Crimea, possesses considerable inte- rest. Ilising majestically from the glen at its base, the town of Mangvi' belonged at different periods to the Greeks, the Genoese, and the Karaim Jews, a tribe peculiar to the Crimea, who fol- low the law of Moses, reject the tradi- tions of the elders, adopt many of the habits of the Mahommcdan, and are a remarkably fine race of men. A guide to the ruins and excavations at the summit of this mountain will be neces- sary, for the ascent is steep and difll- oull ; halfway up the road runs through a cemetery of these Karaim Jews, containing many thousand tombstones, of coffin-shape, covered with Hebrew inscriptions. Beyond this is the outer wall of the fortress, flanked by square castellated towers at short distances from each other. Within this, and further up the hill, is a projection of the table-land, pre- cipitous on all sides but one — this was the citadel. The excavations lure are very singular, and the view from the windows of the chambers in the rocks down the ravines is of the wildest cha- racter. From the opjxtsite side of the mountain, Sevastopol, with its har- bour, shipping, &c., may be distinctly seen, and tov.ards Bakhtchisarai the eye ranges over a broken chain of mountains, each in itself a natural and impregnable fortress. Of the vast population that once inhabited INIan- gup, not one human being now re- mains : ivy has embraced its walls and towers, rank herljs and old trees have choked the vine, and the lizard and the eft now disport themselves over the ruins of the synagogues. The name, sometimes pronounced Mangut, would seem to suggest that the Goths, when fleeing ])efore the victorious Huns, established them- selves there, and built those massive walls of which such stupendous frag- ments still remain. A chapel exca- vated in the rock, with a cross similar to that at Tepe Kermen, is still visilde, though the painted saints upon the walls, which I'allas mentions, have disappeared. Tiiere is little to interest the tra- veller to the nortli of Bakhtchisarai, but, says Mr. 11. D. Seymour, let him go east, south, and west of Man gup, and he may make endless excursions in a most lovely country. He may wander uj) the valleys of the Belbek, the Katcha, and the Alma, and cross the mountainous country which di- vides their channels; and whether ho be geologist, archicologist, or only an admirer of the beauties of nature, ho will tind his tastes amply gratified, and every simple want supplied, anK»ng the primitive and hosjutablc Tartars. i.—Bahhtchisaral to Simpheropolj crossing the Valley of the Alma. Although the traveller is recom- mended to visit Simpheropol from Alushta, yet, as he may be tempted to extend his journey from Bakhtclii- sarai, the route to Simpheropol is here given. A tolerably good road leads from Bakhtchisarai to Simpheroi^ol. The distance is 30 v. (20 miles) along a waste steppe, with the exception of a mile and a half of the distance, during which it passes through the pretty valley of the Upper Alma, about mid- way to Simpheropol. An excursion may very well be made on horseback from Bakhtchisarai, for the purpose of seeing the celebrated battle-field. The Alma (which means "Apple" in the Tartar language) rises in the Siuabdagh, S. of the (Jhatyrdagh, and runs a course of 4G to 50 miles, first S.W., then due W. Its valley is re- markable for its fertility, and particu- larly for its fine orchards of apples, whence also its name of " Alma." Vil- lages and ancient remains mark the wliole of its course. Of the latter tlie most remarkable will be found near the villa g(; of Bazarchik, 10 v. N. of Baklitchisarai, where, at a place called Ilanl'l, is a fine ruin of a khan's palace. But in order to reach the field of Alma, the traveller will make for a point lower down the river, which he will reach by taking a road that leads N.N.W. out of Bakhtchisarai, through the village of Idighiel. Keeping along the same road for a «listance of 12 to 15 v., he will reach the banks of the Alma at about 10 v. from its mouth, and, proceeding down the valley, will arrive at the ground on wliich the Allies met with their first success. (For a description of the battle, vide His- torical Notice.) SiMniEROroL. — For description of town, vide, 8, Alushta to Simpheropol. 5. — Sevastopol to Alupha, through the Valley of Baidar. The journey from Sevastopol to Alupka 'may be easily made in one day. The first stage is Balaclava, 12 versts. Here an attempt may be made to induce the traveller to take three horses, but two are amply suilicieut unless the baggage is heavy. Soon, after leaving Balaclava the track emerges on the high road, which is the best in all the Crimea. There is then a long descent, followed by a longer ascent, exceedingly well managed, winding round the hills amid beautiful forests ; then another long descent, in some places very steep, to the beautiful valley and vil- lage of Baidak, 22 v. from Balaclava, where begins the most beautiful part of the Crimea. This valley is 12 m. (IG v.) in length from S.W. to X.E., and 5 to 7 m. in breadth. Numerous rivulets flow into it, and join the waters of the Tcheniaya, the sources of which are on the slopes of the mountains of Ussundji, by which the valley is bounded on the E. The bottom of the valley is undulated and covered with wood, meadows, and pastures. Twelve Tartar villages, each surrounded with vineyards, and almost concealed in the luxuriant foliage of huge walnut-trees, oaks, and poplars, are ensconced in it. Of these the village at which the traveller will stop is the largest, as it has 195 Inliab,, 2 mosques, and several houses of 2 stories. The rivulet which runs through it is like- wise called Baidar, and it flows into the Tchernaya. The valley of Baidar has been described as the Tauric Ar- cadia, and travellers have bestowed almost extravagant praise upon it. Dr. Lyell says, *' For myself, though I have visited the Caucasus and the fairy scenery of the well - known Trosachs in Scotland, I still regard the valley of Baidar as uncommonly fine, and worthy of most of the eulo- giums bestowed upon it." Dr. Lyell passed a night in the village of Baidar, and slept on a Tartar divan in the upper room of one of the cottages. Travellers provided with provisions should do the same, and pass a day in exploring the beautiful valley. On leaving the village of Baidar the road ascends once more until the highest part of the mountain is reached 29G Boiite 17. — Las}^. Sect. 11. I Eussia. Boute 17. — Kilzineis^ 297 at the "Baidar Gate," or pass of Phoros, over whicli a good mac- adamized road was made by Prinrc Woronzoff in 1S35, and where, passing under an archway, the traveller enjoys his first glimpse of the celebrated coast of the Crimea. The sea lies at his fret at the distance of a mile, and the high precipitous mountains which rise in an amphitheatre on his left hand recede a short distance from the coast, and leave a narrow margin of fertile country, with a climate like that of Greece and Italy. The glittering haze of the blue sea, the balmy air. the lofty mountains, with clear outline drawn against a cloudless sky, and softened by the delicate tints of a southern atmosphere, are natural phe- nomena of which no description can give an idea, but which once seen enrich the mind with a new stock of images. The climate of the southern coast, which the traveller has now reached, is completely dilferent from thut of any other part of the Crimea. To the N. of the mountains, even as far as Balaclava and tlie valley of Baidar, there is always a severe winter, and the ground, as wo too well know, is covered with snow. But when once the pass of Phoros is crossed the climate entirely changes. No snow ever falls on the sea region, an5 of the fortress are still to be seen, in strange contrast with smiling country houses, surrounded by ancient olive- groves and splendid fig-trees. The traces of a violent volcanic action are ai)parent here. The whole space from the top of the moimtuins to the sea below is covered with stupendous blocks of stone, thrown pellmell one upon another, some even half-buried in the sea, whence only their tops are visible, beaten by the waves; one of the largest of these erratic blocks is called Panea, and upon it are the ruins of an ancient castle. The agents of all these convulsions are to be seen in two jets of porphyry, which, piercing through the schist underlying the limestone, have struck against the stupendous walls of the limestone itself, which forms the flat table-land, or yaila, of the mountains above. In one place the yaila is broken, and through the limestone there appear forced up the schists and the porphyry, mixed together in a paste, which proves that they were in a liquid state when the jets arose. About 3 m. beyond Limen is another charming spot called Sime'is. The formidable aspect of the craggy and 298 Boiile 17. — Alupla. Sect. 11. Kussia. Boute 17. — Kureis — Morgudu. 299 peaked rooks on the N"., tlic unbounded tranquil dark-blue sea on the S., with the smiling valley of Simeis between them, covered with very luxuriant foliage, form one of the most inter- esting scenes wliich it is possible to conceive. Castelnau, aFrcMich traveller, exclaims, " Suisse, si fertile en char- mans paysages, on vous oublic en voyaut le vallon do Semeus." A winding road of about 2 miles, through the most charming scenery, will bring the traveller to the end of this joiU"ney, which is Alupka, a village of about 4000 Inhab. Hotel kept by a Frenchman ; very comfiDrta bly furnished. This is the celebrated seat of Prhice Woronzolf, whose villa, (or rather pa- lace, for it contains upwards of 200 rooms,) is built on a romantic spot, whyre the rocks sipproach very near to the sea. It stanhyry, was taken from the crater of an extinct volcano at the back of the house : the turrets, tracery, mullions, coigns, and other ornamental parts of the building, are all of the same stone, which is exceeclingly hard and ditticult to work. The (Ihiing- room IS of splendid dimensions, and lighted by 2 immense windows over- looking the sea : the groined ceiling is of oak, and the wall opposite the windows is ornamented with 2 foun- tains of elegant form in a dove-co- loured marble, with 'dark red veins, peculiar to the Crimea. These foun- tains play at all times, being fed by a crystal rill from the mountains. Among the art treasures and curiosi- ties of the palace are original portraits of Lucrezi.a Borgia and her husband. The terrace in front of the chateau is ornamented with orange-trees and other choice plants ; the gardens are well laid out, but small, in conse- quence of the plateau of land on which the house stands being circumscribed by the sudden rise of the mountains at the back and tli(^ precipitous fall of the ground towards the sea in front. Among the trees are 2 remarkable cypresses, said to have been planted by Prince Potemkin, when Catherine visited tiie Crimea in 1787. The ornamental water is full of trout, and the vineyard contains 140,000 plants of the best species. In addition to the beauty of the landscape and the si)Ii'ndour of Prince AVoronzoll's palace, Alujika boasts of some ancient ruins on a rock detached from the main ridge and marked by a tall white cro.ss. The traveller may well halt hero for a day or two, and raml>le about in the lovely neighbourhood. By no means the least of the; many attrac- tions here are a French cuisine, com- bined with English comforts, and Prince Woronzoft's delicious Crimean wine, Massandra and Ai-Danil, sup- plied at the moderate rate of 40 co- l)ecks, while the Cornishman may even revel in pilchards, which, in the days of Pallas, were taken with the hand between the stones on ihe coast diu-ing the night, by th(j aid of torches made of resinous wood. In rambling about the rocks the visitor to Alupka should beware of scorpions, which in Die vernal season, says Pallas, may be found of dilferent sizes, and beneath almost every stone in old walls. 6. — Alupka to Yalta, through Llvadia. The entire distance from Alupka to Yalta is only 16 v. or 12 English m., and the road is full of interest, ]>eing through a succession of beautiful es- tates. One of the seats nearest to '% Alupka is Mishhor, built by General Leo Narishkin, a celebrated Russian beau of the early part of this centy., who followced and branded on the Place de la (ireve as an accomplice in the scandalous allair of the diamond necklace of Marie Antoinette. Both she and the Princess Galitzin adopted a kind of male attire, suited to their independent mode of life. At each moment from this spot the coast widens, and leaves a greater space between the overhanging moun- tains and the sea. Around the little village of Gaspra the ground unduhites prettily, and every spot is cultivated and covered with rich woods, orchards, vineyards, and gardens, in the midst of which peep out villas and country houses. Every kind of fruit, shrub, and forest tree is to be found ; in fact, a more abundant and varied vege- tation cannot bo seen anywhere. Amongst the fruit-trees arc the vine. olive, pomegranate, fig, peach, necta- rine, and apricot. The walnut is par- ticularly large in its growth, and may be called a forest tree. The shrubs are beautiful and include the juniper and laurel ; and on many of the trees in the hedgerows, for there is a great deal of fencing, the wild hop and vine may be seen climbing from one to the other, mingling with the clematis and forming the most * graceful festoons. The whole resembles a view in the neighbourhood of Naples. Seen from the water it is remarkably striking, but nothing can be imagined more enchanting than the drive through the scenery along this coast. On the top of a hill not far from the road, and near some old ruined fortresses, is an ancient monument which the traveller will little expect to find in Crini Tartary, namely rocks piled up exactly like the Celtic re- mains of Brittany and Cornwall. Beyond Gaspra the road winds in- wards in order to pass the limestone strata of the promontory of Aithodor. A wild path of 2 m. leads from tlie road to tlic summit of the promontory, in the midst of oriental juniper-trees and ruins at every step. On the top are 5 columns of white marble, and the remains of an ancient monastery, which probably, coutiimes Mr. H. D. Seymour, occupies the site of some ancient Greek temple jjlaced like that at Suuium in Attica. Monfudu or Orianda de Witt, a pa- lace built by Count de Witt, a native of Holland, and bequeathed by him to the Grand Duchess Helen of Kussia, comes next. It is built on a terrace 900 ft. above the sea, and forms a fan- tastic assemblage of neglected and decaying buildings in a mixed Oriental, Gothic, and Greek style. Around it is a kind of natural park, in which splendid trees grow on the broken ground interspersed with enormous masses of rock at the fcot of the pre- cipice of Mount Megabi, and here the arbutus and juniper-tree grow to an enormous size. The width of the plain is here nearly 4 m., and Mount INIegabi rises in the midst of it. Close to the sea-shore is p 3 300 Boiite 17. — Livadia, Sect. II. the spot chosen by the Emperor Alex- ander I. to build a retreat which he called Orianda. In the midst of the picturesque chaos peculiar to the coast he formed an English garden, and planted a vineyard and olive-grounds near the modest dwelling-liouse. The Emperor Nicholas, however, erected in its stead a huge palace, consisting of a centre and 2 side-wings. In- ternally it is arranged like an old Greek house, and is richly ornamented with wall-painting. The celebrated Schinkel was the architect, and a beautiful work lias been published ujKDn it at Berlin. Its low situation on the sea-shore, with high cliffs and tall trees overshadowing it, renders it gloomy, but suited to the health and taste of the late consort of the Emperor Nicholas, who spent several winters there. In the grounds are shown 2 celebrated fig-trees 70 ft. high. Here the Emperor Alexander intended to retire, surrounded by his friends, to whom he meant to allot estates near his own. His sudden death at Tagan- rog put an end to these projects, and Marshal Diebitsch, who afterwards commanded in the Turkish and Polish wars, was the only one who received an estate of about 100 acres adjoining the emperor "s garden. Just where the two estates meet is a precipitous hill, witli many traces of a settlement of the ancient Tauri, whose Acropolis occupied its sunmiit. The estate of Orianda now belongs to the Grand Duke Constantino, who has with gi'eat consideration removed the fence on his side of the road, which is here cut in the side of tlie hill, so that the wayfjirer may enjoy a view of his house. At a mile from Orianda are the little Greek village and the Palace of Ln'ADiA, the property of her INIa- jesty the Empress. This beautiful estate is situated on both sides of the post-road to Yalta, and covers an area of about 700 English acres. Most of the estates on this coast were origin- ally given to the Greeks who settled in the Crimea after the treaty of Kuchuk-Kainardji, and Livadia (the Greek word for meadow) fell to the share of Colonel Ileveliotti, comman- der of the Greek battalion. In 1834 it was purchased by Count Leo Po- tocki, who planted a vineyard, and laid out the present beautiful park and gardens. The gardener who con- ductt-d the works was Joachim Tascher, a relative of Josephine, the first wife of Napoleon I. When the latter became Emperor of the French he offered to l»lace Joachim Tascher in a ix)sition suitable to his rank and relationship, but Tascher declined, and asked to be allowed to follow in obscurity his favourite Iwtanical pursuits. He was thereupon sent to study gardening under one of the best Swiss gardeners in Alsace. From thenc(^ Tascher en- tered the service of Count Potocki, first on an estate in Galicia, and later at Livadia. On the death of Coiuit Potocki, who spent large sums in embellishing the house and grounds, Livadia was jmr- chased in 18G1 by the Department of Appanages, and by an ukaz of the same year was presented by the emperor to her Imperial jNIiijesty the Empress. Two other estates, Chair-Jacciuemart, so called after an eccentric French lady who retired here, and jNIaraveli, were at the same time added to it, and Professor jMonighetti of St. Peters- buig was charged in 1862 with the reconstruction of the premises. The facade of the palace hos been little altered, but the balustrades, vases, and cariatidt s have very much changed its outward appearance since the days of Count Potocki. A wide balcony runs along one side of the palace, and is the favourite resting-i)laee of the em- press during the hot days of summer. The map of the Crimea, which will be seen in this balcony, is by the famous Russian painter Aivazf>lsky, and the view of liivadia, a vol d'oheau, is the work of the artist Fessler. The inte- rior of the palace is strikingly and elegantly simple, the furniture being covered with a pretty chintz. The handsomest rooms are the emperor's study, the empress's drawing-room, and the dining-rof>m, alongside of which is a fountain. Russia. Boute 17. — Yalta, 301 Visitors should not fail, if possible, to see the ch. in the palace. It was consecrated in 186G, and is purely Byzantine in arrangement and deco- ration. The frescoes on the walls were painted by Izel, and the sym- bolical ornaments and inscriptions are by Beideman of the Imperial Aca- demy. The Ikonostas or altar-screen is of white marble, and on a pedestal of Crimean porphyry is a white mar- ble cross presented to the "Tsar Emancipator " by the workmen of Livadia in token of their "gratitude for the emancipation of the peasants." Next the palace is the house ap- propriated to the Grand Dukes. It is in the Oriental style of architecture, and is ornamented after the model of the palace at Bakhchisarai. Beyond this are a house for the suite of their majesties, a bath with a large basin filled with sea-water, barracks for musicians, and, on the road to the sea, a tunnel with a pavilion in the Tm*kish style, leadhig to a beautiful walk cf)vered in with trellis-work and roses. The hothouses arc full of the choicest l)lants, and numerous fountains impart tlieir coolness to this enchanthig re- treat. The vineyard covers an area of 50 acres, and consists of 170,000 plants, which in 18GC yielded 8000 gallons of red wine, considered the best on the S. coast, and consumed principally by the monks of Kief. There are traces of ancient building on the estate, and the ruins of a cha- pel near one of the 4 springs. In the vicinity, also, in a gloomy gorge of the mountains, is the castle of Uchansu, which was used by the Turks as a prison. A drive of about 5 v. (3 m.) from Livadia will bring the traveller to the pretty villas, which, reminding him strongly of the environs of an English city, form, as it were, the suburbs of Yalta, chief town of a district. Pop. 1100. Uoieh: Galakofs Hotel, the best, rooms very expensive, and no cuisine; H. de Yalta, kept by a Frenchman, rooms not as good as at Galakofs, but cuisine excellent, prices moderate ; H. Woronzoff, clean and good. Vehicles, horses, &c. — At the back of the Hotel de Yalta are livery-stables Icept by a Frenchman, where horses with English saddles may be had for the various excursions. Steamers. — Twice a week, both up and down the coast. Steamer to Odessa takes about 30 hrs. lit story. — There is abundant evi- dence to prove that Yalta was a place of some importance in the remote days of antiquity. The extraordinary groups of stone found near Gaspra and on the road to IMassandra, so similar in character to the Druidical or Celtic remains of Western Europe, are considered by archaeologists to have been erected and used as altars by the Tauri. At the same time, the history of Yalta only commences in the 12th centy., when Ibn Edrizi, the Arabian geographer, speaks of a town called Galita or Djalita, on the S. coast of the Crimea. He mentions that it was then inhabited by the Comans or Polovtses. From Charters of the Patriarchs of Constantinople it appears that in the 14th centy. Yalita or Gialita belonged to the patriarchs. In the loth centy. it was in the hands of the Genoese, who kept a special consul there. Towards the end of the same centy. Yalita was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake, but it was again partially rebuilt. W'hen the Tartars and Turks took the Cri- mea, Yalta was included in the Kadalyk of INIangup, whieli belonged immediately to the Sultan of Turkey. It remained an inconsiderable village until 1838, when it was made the chief town of a district of the same name. The proximity of the little town of Yalta to the finest scenery of the coast, its excellent port and charming situation, make it the rendezvous of the tourists who fioek in great num- bers to the Crimea during the sum- mer season. The number of Russian families that come here for the pur- pose of bathing is increasing from year to year, and bids fair to make Yalta the Russian Brighton. The 302 Boute 17. — Yalta. Sect. II. quay in summer presents a most ani- mated scene, and small craft from all parts lie at anchor in the little bay. Nothing can be more pleasing (wc quote from INIr. II. D, Seymour; than the effect of the white town placed at the extremity of the bay, surrounded by rich scenery, with the hiirh crests of the hills behind also coviTcd with verdiu-e. The elegant builtUngs, the handsome hotels, and the general ap- pearance of the pripulati(»n, all an- nounce it as a town favoured by the rich and pleasure-seeking. The val- ley of Yalta is very beautiful, and there is nothing on the whole coast more grand than to look down upon it in descending the hill from ]Maga- ratch, stretched out in a noble anii)hi- theatre at the foot of the precipices of the Tauric chain. Mount INIcgabi is then in front, with the village and vineyards of Aiitka at its foot; and Orianda and Cape Aithodor may be seen behind it. On the rt., looking down upon Yalta, a great })romontory of the Tauric chain, called jNIount Yoprakl, about 4000 ft. high, divides the valley into two parts, and at its foot is the little village of Derekoi, hidden by the trees. The rt. branch of the valley is called Ai-Vassili ; and a village whence it takes its name is situated at the foot of Mount I.apata. To judge by the steep, rough aspect of this mountain, one would not ima- gine that down its sides is one of the principal roads leadhig from Bakhchi- sarai to the coast. The road as far as Ai-Vassali follows the course of a rivu- let, and the surrounding country has the appearance of an English park, with magnificent trees and cascades. At Ai-Vassili the gardens are filled with date and plum-trees, ash, tur- pentine-trees, figs, and walnuts. Around the village and above it are seen the sandstone and the schists, and the oak and the elm cover the ground ; but at the height of 101)0 ft. the lime- stone is reached, and the Tauric pine takes the place of other trees and grows to a great size. It lasts over the first layer of the limestone for about 7t)0 ft., and is succceiled by the beech and wich elm. Above these is the naked summit of the mountain, and then, on passing a narrow gorge in the rocks, the tra- veller emerges on one of the mountain plains or yaihift. As far as the' crest of the mountain the sunny landscape of the valley of Yalta in all its beauty is spread out, with a glorious expanse of sea beyond it shining through a warm and clear atmosphere. Upon the yaiUis everything becomes changed in a moment, and to the warm rays of the sun succeed a cold damp air, and the thick icy fog of a northern region. To mark the road across it, lest tra- vellers should lose their way, heai>s of stone are placed at a distance of twenty yards, as far as the wfK)ds on the northern slope, which extends nearly to Bakhchisarai. It iias already been said that Y^alta might be made the head-quarters of the traveller who wishes to see the Crimea thoroughly, and at the same ti;ne pleasantly. After visit big the cataract of Z7- chan-su, near Yalta, a very pictiu*- esque spot, and spending a day in quietude, the traveller will be eager to continue his journey. Should he not have visited Baklichisarai and Mangup- Kale from Sevastopol, the excursion may easily be made from Yalta. By getthig up early in the morning, a journey may be made to 3I(ut(inp- Kale, a very interesting spot, and back, in one day. This will Ijc an ex- cursion of about 12 hrs., but the wiry Tartar horses are capable of a great deal more work, and are, in addition, wonderfully surefooted. The ride is most delightful, and the views from the summit of the mountain-})ass the most extensive an«l varied in the pe- ninsula. The descent to the village of Osembash, on the road to INIangup- Kale, is precipitous and difficult, but from thence the road passes through exquisite mountain-locked valleys, shaded by noble trees, until the cliff, inaccessible except on one side, where the fortress stands, is visible. For a description of ]Mangup-Kale, and of Bakhchisarai, which may like- wise be reached by this route, ride I'.xcursiou 3. Kussia. Boute 17. — Nikiia. 303 7. — Yalta to Aluslda. From Yalta to Alushta the distance is 45 V. througli a most beautiful country. The road ascends* at first up a hill, and on the left are some Cyclo- pean remains, the stones of which have been partly removed to build the pier at Y^dta. At the top of the hill is the ch. of Mdssiuidta, rebuilt by Prince Woronzoff, in tlie Doric style, on the ruins of an ancient chapel, famous for its spring of water, which bubbled forth beneath the altar. The spring still follows its ancient course undis- turbed, and escapes from the ch. by an arch in the wall ; and here the weary traveller may refresh himself with a cool draught, and rest under the fine trees which surround the ch., among which is one of the largest and most venerable oaks on the southern coast. The cdate of Massandra belongs to Prince Wlace was evidently chosen by the barbarous population of ancient times, as one secure from attack on account of the dilKcult nature of the country. The best situation for observing these interesting phenomena, the solution of which lies in the enormous mouth of a crater above the second chaos, is INIount Aithidor, or the Hill of St. Theodore, so called from the ruins of a Greek ch. on the summit. Further on, Mount Castele completely bars all passage along the coast, and the road is carried on between it and the main chain, which the Tartars call Deniir Kapii, or the Gate of Iron ; and, according to their usual system, the Tauri had here established one of their fortresses, in the narrowest part of the gorge, to defend their settlement at Lambat. Three \valls of granite blocks formed the enceinte; 2, about 200 paces long, run from the perpen- dicular Hanks of Mount Castele, and meet a third, nearly at right angles, on the opposite side of the val- ley. Everything here shows the in- fancy of art, and recalls the Cyclopean constructions of Greece, or even the Gnulish camps of France and Switzer- land. On the eastern side of the " Castele," the only remains of the Greeks or Genoese are the foundations of a little edifice outside the fort, in the midst of some trees, looking towards Alushta. The Tauri are probably the builders of a second fortress much more con- siderable than the first, and occupying a part of the sunmiit of the mountain. A wall, constructed without cement, here runs from N. to S.. from one pre- cipice to another, and encloses nume- rous traces of habitations and fragments of pottery. The traveller, after pass- ing the gorge, soon finds himself at the top of the descent leading to Alushta, with the town placed on the opposite side of the valley. Here ends the really fine scenery of the southern- coast, wliich extends over a distance of about 40 m. from Phoros (Baidar Gate) to Alushta. Alushta, 42 v. from Yalta, and 44 V. S.E. from Simpheropol. Pop. 800. Accommodation. — A night may very well be passed in one of the Tartar houses, which are all very clean. The fare will, however, be simple. History, dx. — The history of this Tartar village or townlet. so beautifully placed on the sloping side of a gentle elevation, may be read in the ruins of the old fortress of Aluston, built by Justinian in the 6th centy. before Christ. The remains of the wall, 6 ft. in thickness, and of 3 towers, stand on a little hill near the sea-shore. Some remains may also be seen of Greek houses and chs. placed on the most elevated positions. The chs. must have been nearlv as large as those of Khersonesus, and in the principal one ]Mr. Dubois traced a semicircular apse, which showed that either a bishop or at least a priest of high rank presided over the clergy attached to it. The vineyards of Alushta, in which are about 900,000 vines, protected from N. winds by the giant Tchatyr Dagli, are among the best in the Crimea, and cover, together with rich orchards, the whole of the valley, which is a con- tinuation of one of the defiles of the Tauri chain. Vessels cast anchor in the roads, where the depth is consider- able, and load fruit and wine. There are 2 mosques and a Russian 306 Boute 17. — Tchatyr Dagh — ShnpheropoL Sect. II. Eiissia. Boute 17. — Slmjjheropol — Karasu-Bazar, 307 ch. in Aluslita; also a Quarantine Station. 8. — Aluslita to Simpheropol, and ascent of the Tchatijr Dagh. The traveller bound to Simpheropol byway of the Tchatyr Da<^h will have the coast at Aluslita and proceed north- wards for 28 versts, wlien he will reach the Tartar village of Tautshan Bazaar. Here he should halt for the night, and make arrangements for the ascent of the mountain next day. There is no inn at Tautshan Bazaar, but the posit- liouse presents a sofa ; or, if that Ix; objectionable, there will be no ditliculty in finding some hospitable Tartar to afford shelter for tlie night. A stock of provisions should always be laid in when a halt is to l^e made between any of the principal towns; l>ut bread, cheese, curds and whey, and a few eggs, are generally to be obtained everywhere at a very moderate charge. Horses and guides can be procured at this village, and the ascent will take about 3 hours. The only object of interest near Tautshan Bazaar is Kntuznfs Foun- tain. In repulsing the Turks, who at- tempted to land here from their galleys in 1774, the General was shot through the head. The bullet entered near his riglit ear and came out below the left temple. He only lost an eye, and lived till 1813. The fountain was erected in his honour. Tchatyr Dagh (5125 ft.) is the highest mountain in the Crimea, and is seen from all parts of the peninsula. Tlie view from its sunnnit is most beautiful. All around it, in the country within the iiilluence of the Tauric chain of mountains, is a succession of verdant hills and valleys, which seem to be a great island surrounded by two oceans, tliat of the sea on the S., and ^ that of the Steppes on the N., so flat and uniform do the latter appear to be. | Tchatyr Dagh means tent-mountain in Tartar, and this name has been .given to it because of its form, the last 700 ft. of which rise like a large oblong tent, which in ancient times procured it the name of Mount Tra- pczus. While visiting the mountain, the stalactite caves of Ful Kuha and Kisil Kuha should not be omitted. They are of great extent, and, though somewhat dillicult of access, will amply rei)ay the time and trouble devoted to them. The former contains an im- mense number of human bones, the remains of the unfortunate Genoese who were smoked to death there by the Tartars. After descending the mountain, the traveller, if not too fa- tigued, must make the l)est of his way to the post station, and continue his journey to — SiMrHEROi'OL, 44 V. from Aluslita, on river Salghir. Pop. 17.000. Ilotd, kept l)y Schnyders, very good ; charges about the same as at Sevas- tf)pol. Hidory, &c. — The site now occupied by Simi)JierojKtl must have been popu- lati'd in the remotest times, for many traces of ancient fortifications and buildings are to be found not far from the Aluslita road, and almost along- side of the trecious products of Asia. The tmces of the pavements of the streets may be observed in the fields that now occupy its site. The ruins of five mosques and large vaulted baths re- main; and one Greek ch. and two mosques are still used for religious purposes, one of them being the ancient place of worship. The Armenians, who constitute nearly half the popu- lation, have a ch., as well as a con- vent, built in 1340, and dedicated to St. George. It stands on the neigh- bouring hill of Kara-su, which is the object of numerous pilgrimages. The best view of the town is from the hill of Aghermish, which embraces the whole valley, once occupied by buildings, and on one side may 1x3 traced the remains of the ancient wall, flanked with towers, which surrounded the city, and included an enormous cemetery, in which tombs may still be seen of every variety of form. Passing now over a flat, treeless, and arid steppe, the traveller will arrive at Theodosia, the ancient Kafla, 23 v. from Stary-Krim, on river Chui-uk-su. Pop. 9000. Steamers leave twice a week both for Kertch and for Odessa, stopping at several ports. Ht'storij, &c. — It has been authen- tically ascertained that the present town of Theodosia was originally founded by Milesian-Greeks, who either came direct from Miletus, or from the neighbouring colony of Panticapseum, 500 years before Christ. The fertility of the surrounding country, which was at one time the principal granary of ancient Greece, probably caused the town to be called Theodosia or God's Gift. * By the Tauro-Scythians it was for some time called Ardavda, or the *' City of the Seven Gods." At the be- ginning of the 3rd centy. before Christ it was incorporated with the kingdom of Bosporus (Kertch), and together with the latter was later annexed to the Roman empire. Its destruction was eflected in the middle of the 2nd centy. after Christ, at the beginning of the "great migration of peoples." For a period of ten centuries after, the plough passed over the site of Theo- dosia, and it is barely mentioned by contemporaneous historians. At last, in the 13th centy., the Genoese purchased from Khan Oran Timur the deserted territory of Theodosia, and built on it a town which they called 310 BoiUe 17,— Kaffa. Sect. II. KafFa. The date of its foundation is between 1263 and 12G7. The Vene- tians, jealous of their rivals, surprised Katfa with a fleet of 20 galleys, and utterly destroyed the town. The Genoese, liowever, soon returned, and, assisted by a colony of Arm(.'nians, re- built the town, and extended its com- merce to such an extent tliat the Italians bciran to call the Crimean jieninsula " Isola di Caft'a." They at the same time enlar;T;ed their dominion on the coast, and built many other fortresses, but Kafta was the })rincij)al seat of their power, and consi^^ted of a ea.5tians. The history of Kaffa is so interest- ing tiiat we cannot avoid makuig another long extract from Mr. H. D. Seymour's work. Tlie Genoese colony thus arrived in the middle of the lath centy. at the zenith of its glory and power, wheu the ca})ture of Constantinople by ]\Ia- homet II. isolated it from the mother city, and prejmred the way for its en- tire destruction. On the 1st Jimc, 147'), 482 sail of galleys, commanded by the grand admiral Akhmet PasJia, apiK-ared before Kaffa, and some hours afterwards the Genoese town saw its walls bombarded by the fonnidablo artillery of the Ottomans. Tlu; siego lasted only a short time, and a largo jKirtion of the enceinte, raised at a time when artillery was unknown, gave way; breaches were multii)lied, and on the Gth of June, 147."), the be- sieged surrendered at discretion, after having in vain attempted to obtain a ('ai)itulatiou. Akhmet Pasha entered Kali'a, irritiited by resistance, and hostile to the Christian name. After taking possession of the Considar I*alace, he disarmed the poj)ulation, levied a large sum of money on the town, and seized half the property of the inhabitants, as well as all slaves of lx>th sexes. Tlu; Latin Catholics wen; then embarked on board the Turkish fleet and carried to Constan- tino})le. where the Sultan established them by force in the suburbs of his new capital, after taking 1500 of their male children to incorporate in his guiirds. The Turks confided the govern- ment of the town to a Pasha, but its revenues were paid over to the Khan of the Crunea. In the middle of the 17th centy. the ancient Genoese city had again become considerable. In 1603 Chardin found in the Bay of Kaffa more than 400 ships. The town was then called by the Turks Kutchuk Stambul (Little Constantinople), and bad more than 4000 houses, and above 80,000 Inhab. Merchants from IMos- cow visited it; but it appears that they were badly treated, and some- Bussia. Boute 17. — Kaffa. 311 times made to dig ditches, carry stones, and generally to work in repairing the fortifications, whicli their countrymen were destined later to destroy so ruth- lessly. In 1771, after a ]>ombardment, Kaffa was taken by the Russian troops, and in 1787 generously raised to the dig- nity of district town, under the name of Theodosia ; but while on the one hand the Bussian government ap- pointed a suffi*agan bishop to Kaffa, and erected a mint and a custom- house, on tho other, its agents were sufiered to connnit acts of vandalism which can never be forgiven or for- gotten. As at Sudak, the erection of barracks was the signal for the de- struction of the ancient Genoese monu- ments. Tlwrpvi'tements of tlie ditches were first carried awav, and then the walls themselves disappeared. The magnificent towers which defended them were successively thrown down, and at this day there exist only three remnants of the remarkable bastion christened in honour of Pope Clement VI. The great Turkish l)aths, an ad- mirable monument of Oriental archi- tecture, and the ancient episcopal ch. of the Genoese, an edifice built in the 14tli centy., and then converted into a mosque after th(; Tartar conquest, met witli the same fate. The baths were pulled down, says INIr. H. D. Sevmour, "in a most barbarous and ignorant manner," in 1833, by Mr. Kasnatcheief, the civil governor of the town, in order to make r(X)ni for a parade-ground; while the mosque, after liaving been partially pulled down for the purpose of being con- verted into a ch. of the Busso-Greek faith, and the lead of the roofs con- verted into bullets, was abandoned to the injuries of the weather and public, and soon became a perfect ruin, for want of funds to complete its conver- sion into a Christian edifice. In 1840 the great square of the town was filled with the precious materials, which were then being sold at the price <»f common stone. All the beautiful gar- dens and the rich orchards which surrounded the town in the time of the Tartars have disappeared. One single winter was sufficient for the two regiments that were stationed there to annihilate every trace of the brilliant cultivation which formerly covered the hills. From the fort of the tower of Cle- ment VI. there is a fine view of the town and bay. In the midst of tho panorama rises the ancient Genoese citadel, now dismantled, with its walls threatening to fall down. Before the citadel, an edifice, remarkable by its 2 massive groups of building, Ijut without any exterior ornament, is the princii)al Armenian ch., which the emi- grants of thfi nation constructed when they arrived here under the protection of the Genoese, after the terrible earth- quake of 1319, which destroyed their celebrated city Anni, in the pashalik of Kars. The ch. in question has been converted into a warehouse, but its interior has preserved the distribu- tion of the religious edifices of Ar- menia — a grand oratory as an entrance, then a nave, a dome, and a choir, with lateral sacristies. Another ch., likewise a monument of the Genoese epoch, and which was restored by the Armenians after the Bussian occupation, deserves a careful study, as a good and well-preserved specimen of Armenian architecture. The i)ortico is the most ornamental part of the edifice, and the mouldings and roses are as varied as in Gothic and Byzantine stjdes. There are two images of St. George, the saint in whom the Armenians and the Georg- ians have so much confidence, and the walls of the ch. are covered both in- side and outside with funeral. crosses, as in Armenia. There is a museum at Theodosia, which is an ancient Turkish most|ue, with two lions at its entrance, brought from Phanagoria. Among the ancient Greek monuments is a griffin of fine workmanship. There are also many (Genoese inscriptions, and among them an imi^ortant one found on the tower of Pope Clement VI. A short distance from the town is the residence of the celebrated marine painter Aivazofsky, who is married to an English lady, and a visit to whose 312 Boute 17. — SadaJc, Sect. 11. studio should, if .possible, be made by the traveller. From Eupatoria the traveller may proceed to Kertcli, either by the road (97 v.), or by steamer, which takes about 8 hrs. 10. Alushta to Theodosla and Kertch, hy way of SudaJ:. Travellers who may wish to con- tinue their journey along the const to Theodosia will consult the following itinerary. A ride of 8 miles along a sterile and desert sliore of the E. coast will bring tiie traveller to the valley of the Vlu Uzen, past a very pretty residence that once belonged to an English lady ; and some miles further on is the Bay of Sudak, and the former residence of Mile. Jacquemart, already mentioned. The catjiract of Jiirjur and the grotto of Tiiak lie between Alushta and Theodosia, in the valley of Sudak, which is extrem(4y fertile and pic- turesque, producing a very good imi- tation of Champagne. Si'DAK, a small hamlet S3 v. from Theodosia. Pop. 370. Historii. — A Greek author of the 13tli centy. states that the- fortress of Sugdei was built a.d. 212, and in the 8th centy. after Christ a bishopric had already existed here for a considcra})le time. It became known about the same time under the nana^ of Suroj to the Russians, who attacked it in the middle of the 9th century, and ever after held communication with it. Its merchants, who traded at Moscow in silks, were anciently called '• men of Suraj," and their goods " Surajski goods," whence to this day mercery goods are called in Russian Sumrskie. The Azof Sea is likewise called •' Siu-ojskie More " in old Russian chronicles. The celebrity of Sudak, Soldaya, or Sugdei, as it was indif- ferently called at various times, begins properly in the 13tli centy., when it belonged to the Venetians, and when it was the centre of their ti-ade with the countries to the N. and S. of the Euxine. The Tartars took it for the first time in 1223, but were repulsed in 1240. They attacked it again, and ravaged it in 1322. The remonstrance of the pope, John XXII., was, how- ever, sufficient in 1332 to procure from Usbek Khan the restitution of tho city to the (liristians ; but in 1327 it was laid waste for a third timo by the Tartars. At last, on the 18th June, 1300, the Genoese took it from the Venetians and fortified it, together with 18 villages, which they at the same timo obtained by treaty from the khan, whom they conthiued to recog- nise as suzerain. It was then that these bold merchants raised on the most inaccessible part of the rock tho formidable fortress with 3 stages, of which the ruins still remain, and on wiiich the Genoese sentinels were ever on the alert to watch over the port, the sea, and the neighbouring coun- try. The city was governed by a special consul, who was at the same time commandant of the fortress. The Genoese remained undisturbcceed from Sultanof- ka to Kertch, and make from thence excursions to Oi)uk and to the vast number of other ruins and tumuli scattered all over the country from Theodosia. Keutcii, 23 V. from Snltanoflva, 88 V. from Theodosia, and 201 v. from Simpheropol. Pop. 21,000, with Eni- kale. Historii, iW. — The histoiy of Kertoh goes back to the 0th centy. before Christ, when Greeks from Miletus crstablished on its site a colony which they called Panticapicum, which later became the capital of the "Kingdom of the BosiM)rus," the first sovereigns of which, it is supposed, were of Scythian origin. In the first centy. before Christ the Bosj)orianH jiaid tribute to Mithridates King of Pontus, whose son I'harnaces rebelled, and became the progenitor of a new line of Bos- porian kings, whose rule was main- tained under the protection of the Russia. Houie 17. — Kertch. 315 Pomans until the 4th centy. of the Christian era. They even extended tluir dominions, as we have already seen, along the whole of the coast of the Crimea, and even to the shores of the Sea of Azof The kingdom of the Bosporus was destroyed during the great migration of nations, and its history after that event remains some- what obscure. While the city was under the dominion of the Emperors of the East it was frequently ravaged by barbarous tribes, and particularly in the 7th eenty. by the Khazars, who had then tiiken possession of the Taurida. The Tartars, having occupied the pen- insula in the 13th centy., ceded the Bosi)orus in 1318 to the Genoese, who began to call the ancient town Cerkio, and converted it into a prosi)erous em- ix)rium of trade; but at the end of the 15th centy. Kertch fell into the hands of the Turks, who made it one of their mili- tary harbours. Its importance as such was considerably increased when the naval war between Russia and Turkey connnenceil. In 1771 Kertch was oecu- l)icd by a Itussian cor]>s, and together with Enikale was ceded to Russia by the treaty of Kuchuk-Kainardji. It then became a basis of the Russian operations against the Tartars. Many Greeks from the ArchijK-lago were subsequently settled here, and later, emigi-ants from Romnania, Bulgaria, and Varna. Kertch remained a military station until 1821, when the fortifications were dismantled, and the town was opened to maritime trade under an independent munieipality. It was next made a quarantine station; but its foreign trade has remained very in- considerable, the prineij.al industry of the iuhabitjints being the raising of salt and fishhig. In 1855 the tf)wn was occupied by an Engli.vh and Turk- ish force for more than a year. The ('fleets of a boml)ardment are still visible in dismantled houses and ruined jmblic buildings. The museum on the Hill of Mithridates, of which the contents were foitunately removed by the Russians, is likewise in ruins. Kertch, like all Greek colonies, is charmingly situated. A hill called liussia. — 18G8. the Aim Chair of Mithridates rises at a short distance from the shore. Around it Avas originally built the old (Treek town, and on its sides were; once clustered a variety of (ireek temples, crowned on the top by the Aaojtolis. The Turkish fortress below the hill has been cleared away to make r(X)m for a handsome square*, surrounded by arcades, from which streets diverge in all directions. Two or three days may very well be spent in visiting the num- IxTiess ancient remains in the neigh- bourhood. The cli. of Kertch, which foiinerly stood in the fortress, is a curious specimen of Byzantine archi- tecture, and the date of its erection engraven on one of its columns (a.d. 757) proves it to be the oldest Byzan- tine temple now remaining in the Crimeji. The Acroj)olis was an irre- gular polygon in shape, and the ditches and some parts of the walls (the latter in the coarse limestone of Kertch) may still be traced. The fortified town touched the Acropolis in the form of a long s(jnare, of which the Acropolis occupied tlie S.E. angle. The wall in its circuit enclosed only the summit and the northern slope of the Hill of ]Mithridates. The southern side seems never to have Ijcen fortified, although there are mnnerous traces of the foun- dations of Imildings. Mr. H. D. Seymour says that the "Arm Chair" is cvilently only part of an ancient edifice in which it was included, the form of which may be traced by the foundations of the walls. The princij)al gate of the town was turned towards the interior of the peninsula, in the centre of the western wall. It led to Xymplueum and Theodo.sia, and the place is easily reeogui.sed by the interruption of the deep ditch which ran along it. At 240 yds. from the gate which led to Theodosia was an avenue of tumuli^ ranged several rows deep on each side, in an irregular manner, and continuing for two-thirds of a mile. This long series of tombs, continues Mr. H. D. S;ymour, seems to date, in great measure, from the foundation of tho torian king and queen. It was found in tlie tumulus of Kul-lJba, (') v. S.AV. of Kertch, on the road to Tlieodosia. The gold and silver ornaments weighed more than 100 lbs. avoirdupois, but the greater part of them were stolen the night after tlieir discovery, and the government only succeeded in IS.")!) hi purchasing that portion of the treasures which is now exhibited in the Her- mitage at St. Petersburg. INIany other tumuli were subsequently opened, and their valuable contents jirojiorly se- cured. One of the latest and richest discoveries was made in 1 8r)8, when a Siircophngus of cypress-wood was found ill a tumulus on the Pavlosk battery. (For a description of its treasures ridr '' Hermitage, St. Pet<'rsburg," and Mr. H. D. Sat arrives from Tlieodosia, so that a delightful excursion to the grand coasts of the eastern shores of the Black Sea is quite feasible. The steamer touches at Novorossisk, Tuapse, and Sukhum Kale', and reaches Poti in alx)ut GO hrs. from Kertch. From Poti the traveller can proceed by the steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation Company to Batoum, Trebizond, and Constantinople, thus making the entire circuit of the Black Sea. The boat from Batoum arrives at Constanthiople in time to catch the ]Messagcries Imperiales steamer for Marseilles. The traveller may remain on board these steamers while they are in harbour upon making an arrange- ment witli the .steward for his board, — a proceeding whieh he will find more reasonable than the charges at an hotel. Comuhite. — There is a BritUh Consul at Kertch. ROUTE 18. KERTCH TO TSARITSIN ON THE VOLGA, BY KOSTOF. After coaling at Kertch, the Crimean steamer proceeds through the Straits of Enikale for the ports of the Sea of Azof. The coast on either side is un- interesting, and the sea is of dirty colour and pea-soup consistency. In nutumn the surface of the water is thickly matted with weeds, but the great quantity of shipping gives life and variety to the scene. The first place of stoppage (in about 12 hrs. from Kertch) is Bkrdiansk. Pop. 10,000. This maritime town was founded by Prince Woronzoflf in 1827. It has a considerable trade in gmin, linseed, tallow, &c. ; also in salt, which is raised in the neighbourhood ; and it is the seat of a British consulate. There is nothing to interest the traveller at Berdiaiisk. In about 24 hrs. after leaving Kertch the steamer will cast anchor at Mariupol, near mouth of Ivalmius riv. Pop. GOOO. This was originally a colony of Greeks from the Crimea, who, iu 177i>, to the numlx'r of 18,000, obtained free grants of land on this part of the coast. The population is still almost exclu- sively Greek. There are five Greek churches. In the Ch. of the Asmmp- tion is a miracle-working picture of the Virgin, brought there by the Greeks who removed from Bakhtchisai-ai. It was on the Kalchik river, wliich falls into the Kalmius a little above the town of Mariupol, that the Russian princes met with their first defeat at the hands of the Mongols, in 1224. Vide Hist. Notice, '* Battle of Khalka." In about 6 hrs. the steamer will cross over to the oi)positu coast, and stop for a short time at I EiSK, at the mouth of the Ei river. Pop. 20,000. Founded in 1848, this town has grown rapidly in population, to whom an immunity from taxation was granted until the year 1859. It has a small trade in corn, wheat, and linseed. In 10 or 12 hrs. the steamer will have reached the end of her voyage at Taganrog. For description vide Rte. 15. During the summer (from May to 4th (16th) October) steamers leave Taganrog three times a week for Rostof. Fare 2J rs. Passage in about 6 hrs. Rostof, on river Don. Pop. 29,000. Steamers, er tertiary formation, wliilst the 1. bank is low and frequently inundated in spring. The ci Icbrated vineyards of the Don stretch along the rt. Ixink of thc river, through- out its lower course, which terminates in a delta a little below Rostof. The utmost activity prevails f»n the middle and lower courses of tiie river. The (juantity of goods floated down the Don in 18G0 weighed 135,000 tons, of the value of 4i millions of roubles. The lisheries on the lower course of tlie Don have been a monojKjly of the Don Cos- sacks since the 17th centy. The yield of fish becomes particularly rich from the Aksai station. The quantity f»f fish annually taken l)efore 18G0 was about 10,380 tons, in addition to 7 million herrings. A thousand pouils of caviar (100 tons) are annually ex- tracted from the sturgeon, which is the prhicipal fish caught, and of which the great mass is smoked on the spot. Eish- ing is likewise carried on in winter, v.hen the fish taken through holes in the ice are allowed to freeze, and are carried over the whole of Russia in a frozen state. At Kalatch, now the most imix)r- tant wharf on the Don, the traveller will take rail for Tsaritsin on the Volga. The railway was opened in 18G1 by an American Company, but is now in tho hands of the government. It is well made, and the carriages are very com- fortable. The distance is 73 v., and the fare, 1st class, 2 rs. 19 c. It is best to go on bo; ml thc Vol^a steamer at once, and secure a berth. Eroru Tsaritsin the traveller can either ascend the river to Nijni Novgorotl ifarc 35 rs. exclusive of living), or he may pro- ceed downwards, and visit Astrakhan (205 m.) and Astrabad on the Caspian, returning by the same route; for de- scription of which vide Rte. 9, the Volga : Tver to Astrakhan. ROUTE 19. liOSTOF TO NOVOCHEKKASK. A very pleasant excursion may be matle from Rostof, cither by rail or by steamer, to Novocherkask, the capital of the Don Cossacks, and by rail to thc coal-fields of Gnishcvka, 00 v. from Rostof. NoTOCTiEnKASK. Pop. 20,000. llistori/, (C-c\— The town is very prettily situated on an eminence, on three sides of which flow the Aksai and Tursova rivulets. The territory of which it is the capital has an area of 2806 square geographical miles, and Russia. Boiife 20. — London to T'lflk, 319 its limits will be seen defined on the map. It was well known to the ancients, for the Greeks had a colony (Tana) on the shore of the Sea of Azof, 5 cents. B.C., and several factories along the Don . The greater part of the country was held successively by the Scythians, Sarmatians, Huns, Bolgars, Khazars, and lastly by the Tartars, who defeated tho Russian princes, in 1224, on the Khalka, within the present territory of the Don Cossacks, as already stated. The present population daU-s from the early part of the IGth centy., when renegades from ]\Ioscow, vagrants of every description, formed themselv(,'S into military or rather robber com- munities, and styled themselves "Cos- sacks." In the IGth and 17th cents, they frequently made expeditions against the Tartars and Turks, and in 1G37 took the Tm-kish fortress of Azof, which they were, however, forced to relinquish five years later. Until the reign of Peter the Great the Russians did not interfere much with the jKiwerful and independent Cossacks, but from 1718 tliey were gradually brought under thc power of the Tsars, wiiom they assisted in all subsequent wars. Episodes in the historj' of the Cossacks will be found scattered throughout this Handbook. Thc town of Novocherkask, founded in 1804, has considerably improved under the Hetmanship of General Potapoft; whose palace and garden should be visited by the traveller. Not fiir from the palace is a bronze monu- ment raised to the famous Hetman Platotf, who led the Cossacks between 1770 and ISIG. There is a theatre, as well as a club-house. The latter should be visited for the purpose of tasting the excellent champagne of the Don. The anthracite coal-fields of Gru- shefka are about 30 v. N. of Novo- cherkask. The coal has been worked since 1839, and the quantity now annually raised is 6 to 7 million ponds. The area of the coal forma- tion is about 207,000 square fathoms. The quality of the coal is tolerably good, for it contains 94*90 per cent, of carlx)n, and is much used by the steamers in the Black Sea, and also on the Volga-Don Railway. ROUTE 20. LONDON TO TIFLTS, BY CONSTANTINOPLE. — THE CAUCASUS.* There are two principal routes to Persia vlii Tiflis and the Caucasus : — one by way bf Constantinople and the Black Sea ; the other l)y way of St. Petersburg and the Volga. [Ohs. Those who set out to travel in the Caucasus should not omit to provide themselves with everything requisite in a country where the mo- dern appliances of civilized life are almost entirely wanting. The outfit should include a saddle, a portable bath, and a small cork bed. The money which a traveller will find most useful in Georgia is a supply of napoleons, easily exchanged for Rus- sian money in the towns. A supply sulBcient for the entire journey should • Tlip route hero described may be joined from (jdessa. There is a service of the Kussiiin Steam Navigation Company's stoamers between Odessa and i 'oti, corresponding with the steamers of tlie same G)nipany which run between Ba- tuum and Constantinoi>le. Tlie rout- to Persia by way of Trebizond and Er/erum is not described here, as it does not pass throupli any portion of the Russian do- minions. It is, moreover, not to be reeom- mended, for the journey from Trebizond has to be performed on horseback, with miserable ac- commodation on the way, and not always in security. T>-,,./^ on 320 Boiite 20,— Pott. Sect. II. be taken : and before leaving any town it is necessary to secure a con- siderable number of rubles in paper and small silver coins, wherewith to pay at each station for post-horses. The hire of post-horses throughout the Caucasus is 3 copecks a verst for each horse ; no charge is made for the cart, but the drivers expect a small present of 15 to 25 cop. at each stage. At the stations travellers will gene- rally only tind a samovar or tea-urn, and nothing but eggs and black bread to eat; beef or mutton is for the most part not to be found. The utmost which the traveller will obtj\in through the llussian provinces, except at the towns, is very bad soup, or a fowl newly killed; vegetables and fruit are very scarce. But desirabk' as it is that more attention were paid to the provisioning of the stations, travelling in Georgia has a charm which fully compensates for the pri- vations and causes them to be for- gotten. Every facility is given by the Kussian authorities to stranger tourists. In most parts of the pro- vinces travelling is perfectly safe; and wherever it is attended with danger, as in Circassia and Daghestan, no one is allowed to proceed without the protection of a sufficient guard. The climate is at all seasons very pleasant, excepthig towards the Per- sian frontier in the summer months ; and no one need be disappointed with a tour in this — "Ixiauty's native clime, AVlioro Kaff is clad in rocks and crowuM with 8U0WS bublime."] The route by Constantinople and the Black Sea, being the most expe- ditious, is described first : — [06s. Travellers must select their own route to Constantinople, which maybe reached, l.viu Marseilles; 2. via the Danube ; 3. via. Trieste ; and 4. via Ancona.] The steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation Company ply between Con- stantinople and Poti. Travellers change at Batoum into a steamer which per- forms the service between that port and Poti, and which has a less draught of water to enable it to cross the bar of the river Kion. Poti.* A fortified harbour at the mouth of the river Riou, the ancient Pliasis, on the Caucasian coast of tho Black Sea. The town is composed of a collection of wooden houses sur- rounded by a forest. The principal drawback to its development is the bar at the mouth of the Kion, which prevents most vessels from entering the river, and where it is very often so rough as to make all communica- tion between the shore and the ship- ping outside impossible. Tlie climate of Poti is disagreeable, and fever prevails during the summer months. It is nevertheless the port of Titlis, from which it is 3G0 v. (or 240 m.) distant, and a place of growing importance. JIdtels : " Colchide ; " and another, more recently established, close to tho landing-place of the steamer ; — both kept by Frenchmen. A British Yice-Consul resides at Poti. From Poti a small steamer proceeds up the Ilion, twice a wei'k, to Maran, 8(J V. or 57 m. distant. There are no ])ost-horses between Poti and Maran, but travellers have been able to secure riding-horses. In sunnner, when tho road is dry, the distance may be ac- complished in one day with the same horses ; but in winter, when the mud is knee-deep, it is necessary to pass a night on the road. The w^ay lies through the famous Mingrelian forest. Tlie scenery along the Rion is beauti- ful. To the riglit are the Lesghian mountains, and to the left, far away, are the snow-covered peaks of the Caucasus. The structure of the houses, built on piles, would seem to indicate a very damj) and feverish country on lK)th sides of the river. The Mingre- lians and Imeritians, who will be met on the road, are probably the hand- - • A rly. is In course of constniction from Poti to Tiflis. When completed, it will attract a great numl:)er of tourists to the Cauciisus, a fuller description of w hich must be reserved for a new edition. . Russia. Boiite 20. — Kutais — Siiram. 321 somest race in the world ; and no one can travel through their country with- out being struck by the remarkable lieauly of the women. Maran is a military station and con- tains about 2000 Inhab. The gar- rison is composed in great part of " Scoptsi," a Russian religious sect of which the tenets enjoin self-mutilation. The Caucasus is their place of banish- ment when discovered. As soldiers they are said to be very easily ma- naged. The post-house is the place of refuge for travellers. Post-horses may be obtained here for Tiflis, and thence to Baku or Lenkoran, to the Persian frontier at Djulfa, or to any of the chief towns of the Caucasus. The posting establishment is so exten- sive as to occasion a considerable loss to the Government, at whose charge it is maintained. Travellers with courier podorojnas will get the best horses. A drive of 4 hrs., at an ordi- nary speed, will bring the traveller to KuTAis (Pop. 5000), the ancient Cyta, the principal city of Colchis, and now the capital of Imeritia. It was to this place that Jason and his companions came in the Argo to obtain the Gf)lden Fleece. The town is de- lightfully situated among green hills ; and the Rion, twice crossed by stone bridges, flows through it. On a hill a little above the town are the remains of a building attributed to the Genoese. There are two hotels at Kutais; the proprietor of one is a Hungarian, and of the other a Russian ; but no comforts will be found at either of them. It was to obtain possession of Kutais that Omar Pasha undertook the campaign on the eastern coast of the Black Sea in the autumn of 1855. The late advance of the Turkish army and the want of an efficient commissariat made the expedition abortive. There are 6 stages between Kutais and SuuAM, at the watershed that separates the provinces of Imeritia and Georgia. The first station is agree- ably situated, and counuands a good view. It contains 2 good-sized rooms. The road is rough, and the ordinary vehicles very uncomfortable. Those who are fond of fine scenery should make the fifth stage, through the splendid pass of Suram, in the day- time. The mountains through which the road winds are covered with trees from their siunmits to the valleys be- neath. In winter the scenery loses much of its beauty, but nothing more picturesque can be imagined than the pass in the month of October, when the trees wear a great variety of tints. Several castles perched upon heights in front of the puss command extensive views. An ascent of about an horn* and a half brings the traveller to the crest of the ridge, where the waters flow eastward. The same time will be occupied in descending the pass to the station of Suram. There are G stations from Suram to Tiflis. The scenery becomes tamer; hills, more or less wooded, rise to the rt. and 1. of a bare plain, througn wliich a metalled road has not yet been constructed. In the mountains near Suram is a watering-place called Burjan, to which the Imperial Lieu- tenant of the Caucasus retires in sum- mer. The river Kur, the ancient Cyrus, takes its rise in tliat district. The town ot Gori is situated upon it 2 stages beyond Suram. Before reach- ing it, the road crosses to the rt. bank of the Kur. The town is not, however, on the direct road to Tiflis. Its high rock is visible at a great distance. There are some interesting ruins in the neighbourhood. The road to Tiflis follows the river. Bare hills rise above the valley of the Kur, pre- senting a complete contrast to the richly-wooded provinces of Imeritia and Mingrelia. Beyond Gori the tra- veller will pass ISIiZKETTRA, tho an- cient residence of the kings of Georgia. It is now a ruin, still however con- taining 2 churches of some sanctity, in one of which the kings of Georgia were crowned, and where to the pre- sent day the bishops of Tiflis are con- secrated. This church is said to have been erected in the 10th cent., and it was laid waste by Timiir. The road from here to Tiflis crosses a bridge, ascribed by tradition to Pompey. At I a short distance from Tiflis the Kur, 322 Boute 20.—Tifli8. Sect. II. Russia. along which the road runs, is confined between high walls of rock in which are many artificial caverns. By travelling as conrier without inter- mission, on the second day after quit- ting Kutais the traveller will reach TiFLis. Pop. 01,000. Tlie seat of government of tlie Caucasus, and the residence of the Imperial Lieutenant. Hotels. — Caucase, opposite the thea- tre (to be preferred, being kept })y a Frenchman) ; Hotel d'ltalie ; Hutel de Paris ; and Hotel Debeque. Cimveyances. — Excellent phaetons and drojkics may bo hired by tlie hour. History. — Tijlis is supposed to have existed since the year 469, when the Georgian monarchs made it tiieir resi- dence. It derives its nnme from tlie mineral springs whicli it coutains. What is now called Georgia was an- ciently known as Iberia, lying between Coldiis and Albania. Tiie capital of Iberia was Zelissa. Iberia was not subjected to tlie IModes and I'ersians, and it is first mentioned in Western lii story when Pompey penetrated through it to Albania on the Caspinn Sea. Georgia is bounded on the N. by the pass of Vladi-Kavkas, anciently called the P///* Caucasx. It formed part of the Koman empire from tlie time of Pompey, and was afterwards long tlie theatre of contest between the Lower Empire and the Persians. From the 8th centy., or still earlier according to other records, dates the rise of tlie dynasty of the Bagratides. wliicli flourished till the year 1801, when Georgia became a Russian pro- vince. The Bagratides were at that time the oldest reigning family in Europe, if not in the world. They asserted their descent from Kinlaces in the neighbourhood. In the neighbourhood of Tiflis are the vineyards of Kahe'tie, which pro- duce the wine of that name. It is of 2 descriptions, red and white, and is very much esteemed throughout Trans- Caucasia. It is not made with a vi(;w to being long preserved, and has therefore not been much exported, although travellers will find it at IMoscow and St. Petersburg. As it is kept in leather bags, it has generally a slight flavour of leather. It is ex- ceedingly cheap. Foreign wines, and indeed all foreign articles, are very dear in (icorgia; English porter, for instance, being sold at the rate of 2 rs. a l)ottle. From Tiflis travellers can either proceed by land via Ararat and Ta- breez, or take the steamer at Bakii or Lenkoran to Resht or Astrabad on the Caspian. ROUTE 21. TIFLIS TO TEHERAN, BY ARARAT AND TABREEZ. The route generally followed from Tiflis to Teheran is that by Erivan, the Aras (Araxes), and Tabreez. The road to the IVrsian frontier on tln^ Aras is sometimes more or less inse- cure, but travellers are furnished with a small escort where necessary. Be- tween Tiflis and Nakhitchevan there is a post-road with stations, where horses can be obtained, and travellers can sleep, on the same terms as be- tween INIaran and Tiflis. There arc 17 stages between Tiflis and Erivan, which may be reached in about 3 days. The first portion of the route lies through a bleak and treeless district, which presents the most common features of Persian landscapes — large plains bounded on either side by hills. A bridge will be crossed whicli marks the point to which Abbas Mirza advanced in the last war between Persia and Russia. The scenery improves at the 8th stage. Beyond, the road is steep and bad. After 2 more stages the scenery a.ssumes an entirely opposite character from that of the broad dreary plains previously passed. Wood, streams, and mountains, with rocks crojiping out, now occur. The pass of Diligen is equal to any Swiss scenery. The Gulicheh (or Gotcha) lahe bursts suddenly upon the view at the summit of the pass. The lake is of considerable extent, and jiroduces large quantities of delicious trout. The road for somc^ distance follows the shore of the lake, and one stage ends ujjon it. The character of the scenery for some distance beyond Gukcheh is still mountainous and wild, and at the 3rd stage before Erivan the greater and the lesser Ararat are seen towering alx)ve the surrounding plain. The last 2 stages into Erivan are exceed- ingly rough and stony. Erivan (Pop. 12,000), excepting in the breadth of its streets, presents the characteristics of a Persian city. Its population consists chiefly of Arme- nians. It is overlof)ked by a fort which was the stronghold of the Persian khans before tlie province was ceded to Russia in 1828. By means of the extensive system of canals here in use, the plain of Erivan is rendered very fertile. The view of Mount Ararat from the town is unbroken by any intervening objects. The conceut Q 3 324 Boute 21. — NcikUtclievan — Tahreez, Sect. II. Kussia. Boute 22. — Baka, 325 of Etchniadzeen, the residence of the patriarch of the Armenian Church, is 12 m. from the town, tlie road to it being paraUel to one side of Mount Ararat, which is distant about 30 m. from Erivan. The cathedral of Etcli- miadzeen is built chiefly in the Byzan- tine style, and is surrounded by high walls. Among the monuments to tlie dead who repose within its precincts is a marble slab to the memory of Sir John Macdonald, envoy to the Shah of Persia, who died of cholera at Tabreez. There is an unwillingness on the part of the monks to show their library. The next station of imi)ortancc is Nakhitchevan (Pop. GOOO), a dis- trict town, reached after 7 stages. The road from Erivan passes to tlie otlicr side of Ararat from that on which stands the monastery of Etcli- miadzeen. Tlie Nakhitchevan road is on the E. Behind ^Mount Ararat and adjoining it stands the lesser Ararat. Rising directly from the plain, nothing can be more striking and majestic than the solitary Ararat, with two peaks on the same pedestal. The higher of the two is covered with snow all the year round, and i)resents great ditli- culties to those who attempt to reach its summit. The heat at Nakhitchevan is frequently excessive. Hence to the Persian frontier on the Araxes is a drive of 4 hrs. down a gradual descent. Either power has a frontier station on the river, which here flows through a scene wild and desolate to a degree. A strong wind is almost constantly blowing, so that tents can with dilliculty be pitched, and are in constant danger of falling. Travellers put up at the new station- house. From the Araxes to Tabreez is a distance of about 80 m., which is equally divided into 4 stages. At the end of the 2nd stage, at tlie town of Marend, the road joins the highway from Erzeroum to Tabreez. The day after leaving Marend the traveller will arrive at Tabreez, which covers an immense space in the midst of a large plain flanked by bare hills. It is supposed to be identical with the ancient Gan- saca or Gaza, which was the capital of Atropatena. The modern name of the province is Azerbijan. From its extent and fertility it is the most im- portant province! in Persia, and is usually committed to the care of the heir-apparent. Tabreez has undergone many changes. It was a favourite residence of Haroun al Raschid, and it continued to flourish notwith- standing all it suflered from war and earthquakes ; but it gradually sank down until within the last 20 years, when the European trade through Erzeroum and Trebizond has caused it once more to become one of the most populous and flourishing cities of Persia. Its Pop. is estimated at between 200,000 and 800,000 souls. It fell into the hands of the Russians in the course of their last war with Persia, but was given up by the treaty of Turkmanchai. The plain of Tabreez is 4000 feet above tlie sea, and for 5 months of each year it is covered with snow. At the dis- tance of 5 stages from Tabreez is the town and district of Urumiah, the head- quarters of an American mission which labours among the Nestorian Christians of Persia. There is a road hence to Bagdad. There is an English and a Russian consulate at Tabreez, and a larger European pop. than in any other town in Persia. There is a tolerably good horse-road from Tabreez to Teheran, the country for the whole way being bare of trees, except round an occasional stream or in the immediate neighbourhood of villages. The distance to the capital is a little less than 400 m. ; and when the road has been in a bad state, tra- vellers have taken 17 days to perform the journey. The cotton and castor- oil plants are cultivated in occasional patches for the last three-fourths of the way.. Travellers pass tlie night in tents, one set of which should be sent on to the halting-place the night be- fore, in order to be ready on arrival after the next day's march, which is always commenced in the cool of the morning. A small tent should like- V.-. : wise ]ye sent on for breakfasting in, half-way to the end of the stage. In this manner travelling in Persia is not disagreeable, even at tlie hottest season of the year. ROUTE 22. TIFLIS TO TEHERAN, BY BAKU OR LEN- KORAN, AND RESHT OR ASTKABAD, ON THE CASPIAN. Travellers wishing to embark either at Baku or Lenkoran must take the post route to Shemakha, by way of Elizavetpol. The road from Tiflis to Elizavetpol, distant 194 v. (129 m.), is very good. The Persian name of Elizavetpol was Gunja. The posthouse is within the town, which possesses broad streets shaded with trees. There are 12 stages between Eliza- vetpol and Shemakha. At the 0th stage the road enters the mountains with a very abrui)t ascent further on. The view from the top extends over an immense plain behind. The town of Shemakha wears a melancholy and deserted aspect. It was the capital of the province, and contained 70,000 Inhab. ; but it was visited by earth- quake after eartlKjuake, and the seat of local government was transferred to Bakii on the Caspian. It is, however, noted for its wine. The ancient name of Shemakha was IMamechia. The road from here branches into two: that to the 1. leading to Baku 112 V. (75 m.) ; that to the rt. to Len- KOPtAN, 243 V. (102 m.) distant. Between the middle of April and the middle of October, steamers leave As- trakhan once a fortnight for Ashurade island, opposite Astrabad, touching at Petrofskoe, Derbend, Bakii, Lenkoran, Astera, Enzelli, and Meshedi-sir. Dur- ing the other 6 months of the year the northern portion of the Caspian is frozen, and the traffic on the water is confined to the part between Bakii and Ashurade'. In this half of the year steamers run once a month between the two latter ports, calling at the in- termediate points. Baku is the ancient Getara, and for a long time formed part of the do- minions of the Persian kings. It was taken by Peter the Great, who sur- rounded it with its present wall and ditch. It subsequently again fell into the hands of the Persians, and finally became a port of the Russian empire at the beginning of this centy. It is now the seat of adminis- tration of a province. Its harbour is the best in the Caspian Sea, and it possesses the advantage of being open all the year round. It is intended to construct a rly. from this town to Poti. The Pop. of Bakii is estimated at 12,000, divided between the fortified town and the Persian quarter outside. The peninsula on which the town is placed is bare and sandy, and the fort is commanded by the adjoining hills. Bakii is celebrated for tlie ever-burn- ing fires of naphtha in its neighbour- hood, which are tended, not as might be supposed by fire-worshipi)ers from Persia, but by a succession of devotees from India. Both the earth and the water near Bakli are strongly im- pregnated with naphtha, and when this substance is allowed to burn one of the strangest possible appearances is presented to the view. The entrance to the harbour is lighted from the Maidens Tower, to which a romantic story is attached. The route between Astrabad and Teheran is more interesting than that from Enzelli to Teheran. It may be varied in several ways, but the traveller 326 Boute 23. — Lenlcoran to Teheran, Sect. II. will always pass through beautiful mountain and forest scenery, and by places of historical interest. For the benefit of those who prefer the land journey from Lenkoran or Eesht to Teheran, wliich from the be- ginning of Ai)ril to the en or i)^ m. an hour. Wooded hillsri.se in constant succession behind and on * Thoso nmlftpprs nro generally ctipaRi tl in travelling Ijetween Astara anil Tabret^z, by the nionntaJnous way of Ardcbccl — a journey of 7 da\>. either side of wooded valleys. Dozens of streams of considerable breadth will have to be passed. The Russian I steamers on the Caspian are su])plied I with wofxl from the forests of Talish, which will be passed. A great quantity of charcoal is also jjrepared in those forests for the IVrsian and Russian markets. The coa.st gradually rounds I off to the E., forming by its niaiestic sweeps a number of splendid Ijays. The villages along the coast are very few and far betw(X'n. The ac- connnodation in the cottages is very bad, and provisions are difficult to be obtained. Riding for about 10 m. along a neck of land that separates the lake of En- zelli from the Casi)ian, tlu^ traveller will reach Exzei.li, a small town en- joying a mild climate, in which the orange-tree flourishes. It stands to the 1. of the narrow j»a.ssage by which tlu; lake communicates with the sea, and which is commanded l>y a Persian battery that prevents steamers from entering the lake. The laki; of Enzelli, about 18 m. long by 12 in breadth, is crossed in a boat. There are several marshy islands (m it, where thousands of water-fowl take refuge. The jungle is tenanted bv tiurers and wild boars. Tlu- river of Pir-lJazanr will be entered after a voyage of alx)ut 4 lirs. The boat is tugged up the stream to the end of the road to Resht. The (5 miles of mar.sh that lie to the N. of that town have taken 2} lirs. to accomplish on horse-back in winter, when tlu^ road is almo.st impassable even with the .small hor.ses tliat are expressly trained for the work. Resht is the capital of Gilan, one of the 3 Caspian provinces of I'ersia, and was anci Ije purchased or hired at Perm, if the telega, or postal conveyance, be not accepted. A ta- rantas may be bought for 12/. to 15?. Beyond Perm travellers must be pro- vided with everything they may require on the journey* in the shape of tea, coffee, sugar, wine, spirits, preserved meats, milk, &c. Most luxuries are to be procured at Irkutsk, but the traveller will do well to bring with him from England till the more modern appli- ances for travelling. An English saddle is of great use, and travellers are re- commended to purchase a good map at St. Petersburg, hi coming from China it is of course necessary to lay in a stock of provisions for a fortnight or 3 weeks. Ekaterinburg, 3G4 versts from Perm, is next reached, the road being partly through the Ural Mountains, whicij present the most beautiful views. At the central line of the Ural stands a marble obelisk, on one side of which is engraved the word Euroije, and on the other the word Asia. Ekaterinburg is a town of much importance, as the centre of the minnig districts, and the seat of "The Administration of the Mines." It has 21,000 Inhab. There is a mint for copper coinage, also an establishment belonging to the Crown for cutting and polishing gems, and a steam factory superintended by an Englishman. The gold-washings in the uei;;hbourhood should Ije visited. Travellers will be beset by dealers in precious stones, which may be pur- chased very cheap. After two days' travelling, the town of Tinmen, 300 versts distant, will be reached. There is an engineering esta- blishment here, under the management of an Englishman. Tug-steamers ply between Tinmen and Omsk, distant 327 V. by road, but, as they leave at intervals of a fortnight, the traveller to whom speed is an object will prefer the telega or tarantas. The road from hence to Omsk is generally very bad, especially in autumn. The only pro- visions to be obtained are milk and black bread. It sometimes takes a week to make this stage. Omsk is a town of about 18,000 Inhab., with little to interest a stranger. To3isK, the next large town, is 87G V. distant, and may be reached in four days. The road over the Barabinsk Steppe is good. From Tomsk the country becomes more hilly and picturesque, the birch being almost entirely succeeded by fir- trees. As soon as the province of Ye- nisei is entered, the road will be found as good and well-kept as any in Eng- land. Krasnoyarsk, 554^ v. distant, reached in 3 days, is a town on the banks of the Yenisei, pleasantly situated, and shel- tered by hills of moderate elevation. Ikki TSK, the largest town in Siberia, and numbering 25,000 Inhab., is 1003 V. farther. Kansk and Nijne-Udinsk are the only towns on this stage, but villages occur every 10 or 15 miles. This highway is much frequented. Irkutsk is the seat of government of Eastern Siberia. Purchased vehicles had better be sold here, and the postal carts made use of. Three stages beyond Irkutsk is List- vcnitchnaya, the place of embarkation for the lake of Baikal (112 v. wide and 1800 v. long), which is crossed in a steamer, and from which passengers are landed in small boats. Fare, 8 rs. In winter the lake is crossed over the ice. Two more days' travelling will bring the traveller through Yerkhne-Udinsk : and Selengiusk to Kiakhta, the border 3P>0 Route 25. — London to Pekin, Sect. IL town between "Russia and China ; the whole distance traversed from Nijni- Novgorod being about 5270 v., or 3513 miles. The cliarge for horses is 3 co- pecks per horse per verst to Tinmen, and l.j copeck thence 1o Kiakhta. The post travels tliis distance in 27 days. At Kiaklita the traveller will have to make his preparations for crossing the desert of (iJobi. He may depend upon meeting with every protection on the part of the Russian authorities, pro- vided he has brought letters of recom- mendation from St. Petersburg, which may be obtained through H.31. Em- bassy. It is also advisable to cause the Chinese officials at Maimachin, and other places, to be apprise*! of the traveller's intention of proceeding to rdvin by way of Mongolia. This should he done on leaving England, by a letter addressed to H.]\[. Lega- tion in China. The courier service to Pekin is being much imi^rovi-d and accelerated, and will be made available to travellers, who, until now, have generally been obliged to engage camels, and to join caravans. Covered carts are almost the oidy vehicles to be obtained. It is customary for caravans to travel IG hours a day, and then to come to a halt for cfK)king, eating, and sleeping. There is plenty of good mutton to be had on the way, but all other provisions have to Ix) pur- chased either at Kiakhta or Pekin. The Mongols are most trustworthy in their transactions, and the traveller may feel in perfect safety throughout the journey. July and August are verv hot months in the desert, and the beginning of October is already very cold. The journey between Kiaklita and l*ekin is best performed in I\Iay. The first part of the journey from Kiakhta is over a mountainous tract, and the desert only begins a little be- yond Urga, the sacred city of the ]Mon- gols, with a Pop. of 10;000 to P2,000 lamas. Midway between this and a small Chinese town, 4 m. off, is a Rus- sian consulate, where a cordial recep- tion may Ix^ ilepended upon. Tiiere is very little water Ix^yond Urga, and it has to bo obtained from small wells some distance^ off the track, where the only fuel to be had is dried cow-dung. The use of money is as yet almost un- known iu this part of the country; brick-tea, cut up into slices, being the token of value mo^t recognised; but small l)rass buttons are highly j)rized. Caravans take a fortnight to travel over the bare and slightly undnb ting stepp*.' of Gobi, but couriers can per- form the entire journey between Kiakhta and Pekin iu 12 days, and even less. China proper is entered by a pass in tlie Kiuuran mountains, 5100 ft. above the level of the sea, very pre- cipitous and rugged. The view is magnificent. At Kalgan, a large town through which the gri'at wall of China runs, the carts are abandoned for mule-litters. Two or three days may well be spent atKalgan in exploring the mona.steries in the neighbourhood. In coming from China, camels are engaged at Pekin for Kiakhta. The customary rate of hire is from 12 to 15 taels per camel, but travellers have paid as much as 45 taels for animals that only realized 3 taels a-head at Kiakhta. Several Russian mercantile firms are established at Kalgan, the members of which have been very kind to European tra- vellers. The day after leaving Kalgan tra- vellers begin to ascend a rugged moun- tain pass, the town of Saching being reached the next day. Here travellers sleep at an inn very badly sui)j)lied with comforts. The next night may l»o spent at Chatavu, a fort on the inner or ancient Great "Wall of China. This place is at the foot of a formidable mountain-range, the pass over which, 17 miles in length, occupies half a day, and is 20 to 25 miles from Pekin. The mountain scenery is of the grandest description, the road passing among rugged and precipitous crags. The village of Sha-ho is the next halting- place, and Pekin may be reache/V^ W^r^f W WW V>> V WX/ «■ *.ww*»*.vwww^rt»-v»rv^i's»v>r»rwwwvN. v wx/xvwn. « SECTION III.— KINGDOM OF POLAND. INTRODUCTION. PAGE 1 . Historical Notice 333 2. Statistics .. .. 339 3. Social Condition 339 4. Political Administration .. .. 341 5. Agriculture, Industry, and Com- merce 342 PAGE 6. Postinor 343 7. Lano;uao;e 343 8. Words and Phrases 345 9. Literature 349 10. Measures, Weights, and Coins .. 349 1. — Historical Notice. For most Enpilisli readers the history of Poland begins with Poland*s mis- fortunes. Put aside Sobieski's great victory outside the walls of Vienna, and few Englishmen can mention any important events in Polish history l)rior to the lirst partition and the guerilla war waged by the Confederates of Bar ; the second partition, Ibllowed as it was by the insurrection of Kosciusko ; and the third i)artition, after which, for twenty years (from 1795 until 1815), the very name of Poland disappeared. The early history of Poland, however, has been fully treated by a series of native historians. Dlugosz, or Dlugossius, his Latinised name, or Longinus, the Latin equivalent for it, begins his history from the earhest period of the Polish annals, and carries it down to the year 1480. It is written in the Latin language, as were all Polish historical and legal works until the eighteenth century. The first history of Poland in the Polish language wa^s not composed until the reign of Stanislas Augustus, when the independent existence of the country was about to cease. Polish history up to the time of the partition was usually divided into four i)eriods. During the first of these Poland was governed by sovereigns of the House of Lekh ; during the second by sovereigns of the House of Piast ; during the third by the Jagellon dynasty ; during the fourth by kinirs of various families. The first ])eriod has generally been looked upon as altogether fabulous, and the second as fabulous in a great measure. But Mickiewicz the poet, and Szainocha and Moraczewski the historians, have done much to restore the credit of the early Polish legends ; the former dwelling on their tyjHcal value, and assuming their substantial truth from the thoroughly Polish character of the incidents, in many of which he sees the incidents of Poland's modern history prefigured ; the latter reconstructing them after comparing them with the legends of other countries, and criticising 33-4 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. III. them by the light of aucient Geiinan and Scandinavian writers, who, in treating the history of tlieir own country, have touched uj)on that of Poland. We may as well dismiss the Lekh period alto.2i;ether ; or if our readers wish to know something of the legend of Lekh, Tchekh, and Russ, which lies at the bottom of all Slavonian history, we may briefly mention that these three brothers started from somewhere on the "Danube, each with the object of fonning an independent establishment, if not of founding a .state ; that three eagles a})ix'aring and flying away in difi'erent directions, the omen was acce])tcd, and the Slavonian brothers, like the eagles, parted company, each to follow his own bird wherever its flight might lead him. Ituss, of course, went to Ihissia ; Tchekh to Bohemia, the country of the Bohemians, or Tchekhs ; Lekh — led by a white eagle, which afterwards became an historical symbol — to Poland, the land of those who accompanied or dwelt with Lekh. From po-lckh^ or j'O-Iakh (he was also called Lakh), the word " polak " is said to be derived. The lUissians call the Poles Folaki; and "Polack"was the English name for a Pole in the time of Shaksi)eare. hi the provinces, too, of ancient Poland, which are inhabited by a peasantry of Russian or Paithenian race (Volhynia, Podolia, &c.), *' Lekh" is still the name given to the inhabitants of Poland ]n-oper. Szainocha makes the Lekhs, or Lakhs, come from Scandinavia. Accord- ing to this historian, the Nonnans invaded Poland as well as every other northern country having a sea-coast ; the word lakh is of Gothic origin, and signifies sociKs, companion ; and the Lakhs, Lekhs, or Lechitcs, were a Norman brotherhood, who, establishing themselves in Poland, as the Va- rangian Normans established themselves in Russia, were the ancestors of the Polish nobility. 'i'he theory proj^ounded by the learned Szainocha is not much liked by his fellow-countrymen, who prefer to believe that the Poles, rich and iK)or, nobles and peasants, are all of the same stock, and that the noble or eques- trian order was originally composed of all Poles who were able to serve their country on horseback ; while those who had neither horses nor arms, or who for any other reason were unable or unwilling to go to war, re- mained at home to till the ground, and formed a class of peasantry. The travellers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries tell us that the Polish nobility proclaimed themselves of eastern descent ; and it has been surmised by Mickiewicz, and others, that the Lekhi, or Leski, came from the Caucasus, and were of the same family as the Lesghi or Lesghians. Various origins are assigned to the nobility of Poland ; but whether or not the country was invaded or colonised by a foreign race at some pre- historic period, the foreign appears to have been completely absorbed by the indigenous race long belore the date of the earliest Polish records. I>ut the very name of Poland is of uncertain derivation ; for though by most writers it is traced to Lakh and jw-Iakh, others make it proceed from pola^ a field or i)lain. The Poles call the country Polska^ the Russians Polsha^ the Gei-mans Polen, the French Fdlorjne (evidently from the Latin name Fool- nia, given to Poland by the Poles themselves) ; and it is just jxDSsible that the country may have lx3en called " the country of fields or plains," while the people were known as " the people of Lekh." These are questions which Poland. 1, ^-Historical Notice, 335 the Poles themselves are unable to settle, and about which we need not trouble ourselves further than to note that in England we first became acquainted with them under the name of " Polacks" long before we knew them as Poles. The Polish nobles have always been politically equal. The title of "noble" was given to every freeholder; and these "noble" proprietors were the only inhabitants who were called ui)on to serve in defence of the country. The peasants, without being slaves, were "assigned to the soil," and had to cultivate the nobleman's fields in return for the land allotted to them for their own use. The Crown, as in other European states during the greater part of the middle ages, was nominally elective ; but in practice the Polish sovereignty may be said to have been hereditary until after the extinction of the jagellon line. The cei'emony of election took place, but until the end of the sixteenth century it amounted only to a formal recogni- tion of the next heir. A certain attachment to the hereditary principle was shown in the elec- tion of the first of the Jagellons, under whom in the latter part of the fourteenth century Lithuania and Poland became united under the same crown. Casimir the Great, who restrained the power of the nobility, and, by the benefits he conferred upon the peasantry, gained the name of Fex liusticorum, had been succeeded by his nephew Ladislas King of Hungary, who, being a foreigner, could only ensure the possession of his throne by reinstating the nobles in all their privileges. Ladislas was the last sove- reign of tiie Piast period ; and as he left no male heir, the nobles exercised the riosed on the central power, and by the extreme precautions taken for rendering it unstable. Throughout the Jagellon period tlie kings, in spite of their election, always styled them- selves "heirs" of the kingdom of Poland; and the rule observed, though not admitted as a theory, was to look for a successor to the next heir. After the death of Sigismund Augustus, however, the Polish nobility — prompted, perhaps, to some extent by jealousy of the powerful magnates of Lithuania, where until the union with Poland the feudal system was maintained — insisted on all nobles or freeholders in Lithuania, as in Poland, being declared on a precise equahty, and therefore equally com- petent to 2;ive direct votes at the kingly elections. The nobiUty of the Lithuano-Polisli state, voting in a mass, made a bad beginning. They went to France for their sovereign, and Henry of Valois, afterwards Henry III., was elected to the throne, on engaging to pay an annual pension to the state from the revenues of France. Now, also, the l)ractice of bribing the electors individually — unheard of wh(jn the right of choice rested with the diet — was introduced, and helped materially to prepare the way for the downfall of Poland. It was not, however, until about a century afterwards that signs of decay became generally apparent. At the time of the election of Henry of Valois there was at least religious toleration in Poland — I'ar more, indeed, than in any other country ; and the necessity of recognising the principle of religious liberty was specially impressed upon the new monarch, wliose brother, it was not forgotten, had directed the massacre of St. Bartholomew's day. Put with the entrance of the Jesuits into Poland came intolerance ; and one of the reasons which led the Cossacks of the Ukraine, in the middle of the seventeenth century, to solicit Russian ])rotection, was the inferior i)osi- tion in which their Greek religion was ])laced as compared with that of Koman Catholic subjects. Poland and Muscovy had waged war for two centuries with varied success, when in the reign of Alexis Mikhailovitch, Peter the Great's father, the whole of the Polish territory east of the Dnieper — now known as Little Ilussia — passed under the protection of the Tsar, and after the insurrection of ;Mazei)pa, in the reign of Peter, was finally iucorix)rated with the Ixussian empire. With Little lUissia the city of Kief, on the Polish side of the Dnieper, became lost to Poland. Sobicski, who saved Vienna for the Austrians, could not keep Kief for the Poles. This sacred city, from which the Russians received their faith before either Poland or Russia had become regularly organised states, was now looked upon as the religious metropolis of the numerous Polish subjects belonging to the Eastern Church ; and when the first partition of Poland took place, in 1772, the portion wliich fell to Russia contained numbers of inhabitants who were already connected with that country by religious ties. On the misfortunes of Poland during the partitions it is not our intention to dwell. As to the distribution of territory, it was observed at the time Poland. 1. — Historical Notice, 337 that the most extensive portion went to Pussia, the most populous to Austria, and the most commercial to Prussia. Prussian Poland, after the third partition (1795), extended beyond the Vistula, and included Warsaw. The ancient Polish capital was placed under a Prussian administration, and vain endeavours were made to Ger- manise it. After the battles of Eylau and Friedland (1806), the Poles having risen against their German masters, and a French army having entered Warsaw, Prussian Poland became nominally free ; and though under French influence, and required to furnish troops to the French army, it was at least governed constitutionally, and through a Polish administration. This new Polish state (formed entirely out of the provinces seized by Prussia at the three partitions) was called the Duchy of Warsaw\ The King of 8axony was the sovereign; and the governing power was vested in the Sovereign and two Chambers, — a Senate and a House of Represen- tatives. At the great settlement of 1815 the Emperor Alexander proposed to form the whole of ancient Poland into a constitutional monarchy under the Russian crown ; but it was ultimately arranged that Galicia (which in 1809 had been annexed to the Duchy of Warsaw) should be given back to Austria, Posen to Prussia, and that the rest of the Naiioleonic duchy should be formed into a constitutional state with the Russian F.mperor as King. The provinces acquired by Catlierirte II. at the partition of the eighteenth century remained incorporated with the Russian empire, but were not subjected to a Russian administration until after the insurrection of 1830. The little kingdom of Poland of the present day, with its five million of inhabitants, was governed from 1815 to 1830 in accordance with the ar- rangements of 1815, having its Diet, its national administration, and its national army of thirty thousand men. After the insurrection of 1830 the constitution was withdrawn, the national army abohshed, the national lan- guage proscribed in the public offices, and the administration, as far as l)Ossil)le, Russianised ; Poles, however, being still appointed to the minor oflices. The Polish universities were closed. After the accession of the Emperor Alexander I. several reforms were in- troduced into Poland, and Polish was re-established as the language of the administration and of public instruction. Demonstrations, however, in favour of national independence were commenced ; and for two j^ars before the last insurrection broke out Warsaw was the scene of constant agitation. In the mean while several concessions were made by the government. The administration was comi)letely separated from that of Russia ; elective dis- trict and municipal councils and a council of state were formed. The re-opening of the universities and of additional gymnasiums, and the esta- blishment of schools for the peasantry, preceded the arrival of the Grand Duke Constantino in Warsaw, accompanied by the Marquis Wielopolski, as chief of the civil administration. From the Marquis Wieloix)lski down- wards every official in Poland was now a Pole ; but the administrative and other reforms had little effect in quelling the excitement ; and in January, 1863, another insurrection broke out in Warsaw, the lamentable efl'ects of which will long be felt. The Polish language has now been entirely superseded by Russian in all 838 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. III. educational establishments, as well as in all public offices ; and all official corresix)ndence even with the Voits, must be in Russian. The Code Napoleon is to be sui^rseded by the Russian Code with some modifications. The insurrection which broke out in 1803 had Iouli; been meditated by the "red," or extreme jmrty, while the " white," or moderate parly, were opix)sed to it as inexpedient and iin])rudent. The rising was precipitated by an arbitrary conscription, or proscrij)tion, by means of which it was pro- jx)sed to carry oh' some thousands of the more violently disail'ectetl, for the pur|K)se of enrolling them in the Russian army. For a time the landed proprietors, and the modemtc party generally, held aloof from the movement. Gradually, however, it extended; and when it was known that the Western Powers were about to address representations to Russia on behalf of the Poles, all classes in Poland, with the exception of the uneducated, indiflerent peasantry, uniteil for the imrjxise of main- taining the insurrection. On the 10th of March, at the solicitation of the " white " party and " red " party combined, Gen. Langiewicz, formerly an officer in the Prussian army, proclaimed himself dictator; but his dictator- ship lasted scarcely a fortnight. Having crossed the frontier of Poland to enter Galicia(with the view, it is believed, of re-entering Poland at another ])oint), he was arrested by the Austrians, and thrown into a fortress, where he was detained until long after the termination of the insurrection. After the fall of Langiewicz the insurn.'ction assumed a guerilla character, and no more large detachments were formed. A number of bands, of from 100 to 1000 men, appeared in Poland and Lithuania. 'J'here was also a partial rising (soon put down) in Volhynia. The struggle, hopeless from the moment it was seen that no foreign power had any intention of assisting the Poles, lasted, nevertheless, imtil the spring of 18G4, when the Austrians placed Galicia in a state of siege, and proceeded to deliver U]) to the Russians all insurgents who sought refuge on their territory. The last im}X)rtant body of insurgents was under the orders of General PxDssak (the pseudonym adopted by Count Ilauke, formerly a colonel in the Russian army), who, from his head-quarters in the mountains near Cracow, com- manded three detachments, numbering altogether some 2000 men. After having maintained his position for six months, "liossak" broke np his force, and retired to Galicia, whence he afterwards made his way to Switzer- land. After Langiewicz and *'13ossak" the principal leaders in this insurrec- tion were Frankowski, a student (wounded, taken prisoner, and executed); Padlewski, formerly an officer in the Russian army (wounded, taken prisoner, and executed); Jezioranski, formerly an oflieer in the Prussian army (still living); Lelewel, a mechanical engineer from Warsaw (killed in action); Narbutt, a Litliuanian proprietor, Ibrmerly in the Russian army (killed in action); Sierakowski, formerly an offiicer in the Russian army (mortally wounded in action, and hanged by Mouravieff when on the point of death); Cieszkowski, chief of a band near Malogoszcza, wounded in action, but killed in bed next day ; " Kruk," formerly an officer in the liussian army (still living); Taczanowski, tbrmerly an officer in the Prussian army (still living); and the Abbe Mackiewicz (taken prisoner and hanged). Poland. 2. — Statistics. 3. — Social Condition. 339 2.— Statistics. Tlie Kingdom of Poland, as constituted by the Congress of Vienna, com- prises an extent of 2320 geographical square miles. In 1861 the population amounted to 4,910,fi08 souls, consisting of 2,375,312 men and 2,535,290 women, which in 1863 had increased to 4,986,230 souls. Classified according to religion the population in 1856 was composed of— Roman Catholics 3,767,977 Uniat^s 219,655 Protestants 289,583 Moravian Brethren 2,000 Menonites l,o99 Russo-G reek Church 5,100 Odinovertsi, a sect of the Russian Church .. 551 Staroveri, Russian Sectaries, who emigrated into Poland in the loth century, at the time of the religious persecutions in Russia, and foniied separate colonies 3,937 Jews .. .. 617,891 ]MahomeUms ^^ ' Gipsies ^°" The nationalities of which the po]mlation of the kingdom of Poland is composed arc officially grouped as follows : — Poles 3,420,000 Ruthenians (in the province of Lublin). This race also pre- dominates in all the southern provinces of Russia as well as in the eastern part of Galicia in Austria 215,000 Russians .. ^'^OO Lithuanians (in the province of Augustovo). They also pre- dominate in the provinces of Kowno, Wilna, and Courland . . 220,000 Germans, partly established in towns, and partly in agricultural colonies scattered over the whole country 300,000 Jews, exclusively inhabiting towns 600,000 The inhabitants of the 22,613 villages of the kingdom (grouped in 3083 rural communes) amount to 3,690,967 The inhabitants of the 453 towns number 1,219,641 3. — Social Condition. ' When Poland was independent the law divided the population of the country into three classes— the nobles, the citizens, and the rustics. The clergy, althou<^li enjoying all the immunities secured to them by tlie canon law, did not constitute a separate class. The Jews did not belong to any of the classes reco-mized by the law, but had special rights and obligations. They were only°assimilatcd to the other classes, with some restrictions, in 1861, when the country enjoyed a certain amount of political freedom. Under the old Republic, the nobility exclusively possessed political rights; they, alone Russia. — 1868. * 3i0 3. — Social Condition. Sect. III. l)articipated in the elections to the Diets ; and they alone could hold landed property or public offices. The citizens could only hold real property in towns. They enjoyed the municipal franchises ,i^ranted to each town by its Charter of Election. The rustics were adscripti f/lehce to the extent that the mral communes were obliged to occupy all the peasant farms, and that the peasant could not leave his lord until all such farms were occupied. But tliey also possessed the ric^ht of occupyin^:^ any farms that were vacant. Strictly speaking, serfdom did not exist ; but there was a kind of personal derK'nd- ence, aggravated by the extensive privileges of the nobles, and by tlic imix)tence of the government. In lieu of rent the peasant holders of forms worked for their landlords a certain number of days in the week, deteiTnined by law. A tendency to exchange that labour for a money pajanent which had begun to manifest itself was interrupted by the partition of Poland. After that event the social condition of the country was modified according to the institutions that existed in the countries which shared Poland. The condition of the peasants became more oppressive ; the nobility lost almost all their i)olitical rights, and the towns their municipal autonomy. All serfage was however abolished in 1807, when the Duchy of Warsaw was constituted. The right of holding landed projx^rty and government offices Avas bestowed on all classes of society alike, with the exception of the Jews ; the nobles only retaining the right of appointing a certain number of the members of the Chamber of Deputies. But as a necessary consequence of the liberation of the peasant from all attachment to the glebe, the landed proprietors claimed, without any sanction of the law, the entire possession of all the lands formerly held by the adsnipti gleboe. The relations between the peasants and the proprietors became free ; that is to say, that the holding of farms, and the amount and the mode of the rent, were left to amicable adjustment. With a few exceptions old relations were continued voluntarily and by mutual agreement. The peasants retained possession of their farms, which then numlxjred 240,000 ; and continued to work in the fields of their landlords the number of days previously agreed upon. These liabilities in labour were gradually converted into money payments. It was only in 1846 that the law interposed to prevent any change in existing relations. The proprietors could no longer either take back the farms from the ]ieasants or raise their rents; while the ix?asants retained the right of leaving their holdings. Since, by that measure, the land question could no longer Ixj settled gradually at the convenience of the parties interested, and with their free coriaent, the necessity of regulating it in a definitive manner by law became evident, and gave rise in 1859 and 1861 to a series of ukazes, of which the provisions could only have been applied slowly. An insurrection broke out in 1863. In order to interest the ]K'asants in the movement, its chiefs promised them the gratuitous freehold of the lands they occupied, and proposed to indemnify the proprietors at the expnse of the govern- ment which they desired to restore. In 1864 the Pvussian Government seized the same weapon in order to suppress the insurrection. All the property held by the peasants was gratuitously bestowed upon them, and even servants became proprietors of the dwellings which they occupied. According to this new settlement, the intersection of fields by the property of others was peri^etuated, as well as the labour in the fields and forests of Poland. 4. — Political Administration, 341 the landlord owed by the rural communes. The Government promised to indemnify, to a certain extent, the landed proprietors who had been deprived of a considerable part of their fortunes. The last settlement reintroduced a class of i)easants distinct from that of the citizens and nobles— a dis- tinction that has not existed since 1807. The citizens have long since lost their most precious franchise, that of municipal self-government. The mayors are apix)inted by the Crown, and it is only a few towns that have elective municipal councils since 1861. The nobles have only retained certain ])rivileges with regard to military service, and the substitution, in criminal matters, of exile to Siberia, where corporal punishment would bo otherwise inflicted. 4. — Political Administration. The kingdom of Poland is governed by a Namiestnik, or Lieutenant of the Emperor, wlio is at the same time ex-officio Commander of the Forces in Poland ; the attributes and powers of the '* Namiestnikate " are, however, very different from those possessed by Prince Paskiewitch, and it is highly probable that in the course of time the post itself will be abolished. The Government of Poland may be said to be in a transition state : all the so-called autonomic institutions of the country have been swept away, and every department has been placed during the last two years under the corresix)nding offices, or bodily merged in the Departments at St. Petersburg, while every Pole either has been, or will be, dismissed from Government employment, unless prepared to embrace the Greek faith. Since the lat« insurrection a "Committee of Beoi-ganization" has been in existence at Warsaw, which began witli the questions involved by the changes in the condition of the i)easants, and has gradually usurixjd a considerable part in the direction of the government of the country. The Namiestnik is President of this committee, but his ix)sition when in the committee is scarcely more than ** primus inter i)ares," and all questions and measures are subsequently submitted to the Section or Committee for Polish Afl'airs at St. Petersburg. The whole policy of the Government is bent on extinguishing all remembrance of a separate nationality in Poland, and it will sj^eedily be reduced to precisely the same state, as regards laws, government, and in- stitutions, as any other Russian province. Poland is divided into ten Governments, each provided in miniature with the complete machinery of Government : the Governors report direct to St. Petersburg, and select their own officials, but they owe a distinct allegiance to the Namiestnik, who exercises a supervision over the wliole kingdom, and is responsible for everything which takes place. The seats of the ten Governments are Warsaw, Kalisch, Pietrokow, lladom, Kielce, Lublin, Siedlce, Plozk, Lomza, and Suwalki. The rural communes are administrated by Mayors, ctilled Voit. Until the year 1864 the Government was bound to api)oint these functionaries from amongst the landal proprietors of the commune. Since then, however, they have been elected by the peasants by universal suffrage. R 2 342 5. — Agriculture, Industry, and Commerce. Sect. III. The landed proj^rictors and tlie priests have not the right of votinp; at such elections. All the towns are governed by Burgomasters appointed by the Government. The most imiwtant towns enjoy the privilege of having elective municipal councils, which assist the Burgomasters in the discharge of their duties. This system has been applied up to the present time to 16 towns out of 453. Justice is administered in the towns by the Burgo- masters, and in the villages by the Magistrates {Voit (jmini), assisted by rural tribunals composed of peasants. The inferior courts thus constituted can sentence to eight days' imprisonment, and deliver final verdicts in civil suits to the extent of 50 rubles. The higher Judicial Instances are 80 Judges of the Peace, and as many Tribunals of Correctional Police, 9 Civil Tribunals, 1 Commercial Tribunal, 17 Criminal Courts, and a Court of Appeal, which takes cognizance of civil, commercial, and criminal matters. There are moreover li departments of the Senate, forming part of the Senate of the Empire ; of which one acts as a final Court of Appeal in civil suits, the other in criminal cases. The i>roceedings in all these courts are public and oral. A commission has been appointed with the object of reforming the organisation and mode of procedure of these courts. There are in addition various commissions sitting for the investigation of political offences, whose sittings, acts, and even existence, may be said to be almost secret. . 5. — Agriculture, Industry, and Commerce. Agriculture is pursued in the kingdom of Poland on more than 25,000 large farms, of the extent of 200 to 1500 acres, belonging to nearly 8000 landed ])roprietors, and on more than 240,000 jMjasant larms, seldom exceeding 40 acres of land. 'I'he ])easants ])roduce almost nothing for exportation. J.arge proprietors generally work their own farms, and very rarely let them. The rent of a farm seldom exceeds 10 shillings per acre. Many Englishmen have realized considerable suras of money by farming, although they all commenced with very small capitals. AVheat and wool are principally l)roduced for exportation. Large crops of potatoes are raised for the dis- tillation of spirits, as well as beet-root lor the manufacture of sugar. Clover grows in perfection. Wood for building purposes is also a great item of exportation. The fir-tree (pin as silvestris) and the oak ((juercus rohur) are of very superior quality. The nianufacture of spirits from i)otatoes and grain is most widely pursued. There are more than 2000 distilleries of brandy. The excise duties which they pay amount to more than 100 per cent, of the value of the produce. The branches of industry next in importance are brewing, the manufacture of sugar from beet-root, cotton-spinning, calico- printing, cloth-weaving, and the manufacture of iron and zinc. Most of the iron and zinc mines and works belong to the Government. They are chiefly situated in the province of Radom, and some on the frontier of Silesia. Others again, between Padom and Kieltse, produce iron, which is smelted with charcoal, and which is not inferior to the best iron from •Siberia. Poland. 6. — Posting. 7. — Language. 343 The state of agriculture nnd of industry indicates the principal articles of trade. The custom-houses of the kingdom of Poland are united with those of the empire of Russia. The trade between the two countries is free, excepting in the items of spirits, salt, and tobacco, which are mono]X)lized, and burdened with heavy excise duties. Trade is promoted by the State Pan k of Poland, a deposit, loan, discount, and emission Bank. A Land Securities Company (Credit Fancier), based on the mutual guarantee of the landed proprietors, emitting bonds bearing 4 per cent, interest in specie, guaranteed by the Government, facilitates the transfer of property by the liquidation of mortgages. The law of mortgage is extremely well regulated in Poland. A State Lisurance Office against fire and against epidemics among cattle, as well as for the insurance of life, renders very im]X)rtant services to the country. There is an Exchange at Warsaw with sworn brokers, where a considerable business is done in drafts on Odessa. There is also a Tribunal of Commeice. The commercial law of the kingdom, and the judicial procedure in matters of commerce, are exactly the same as in France. The commercial interests of foreign States are protected by Con- suls General and Consuls resident at Warsaw. 6. — Posting. The high roads are not numerous. Their entire length in 18G0 amounted to 4000 versts. They are becoming more numerous since their construction has lx»en confided to committees chosen from among the inhabitants of the districts interested in them. The most imix)rtant highways are losing their importance, being supplanted by railways. Uncomfortable coaches run from Warsaw by Way of Padom to Kieltse ; from Warsaw by way of Lublin to Zamoscz ; from Warsaw by Brest-Litevski to Moscow ; from Warsaw by Pultusk to Suvalki ; from Warsaw to the fortress of Novogeor- gievsk or Modlin ; and from Brest-Lite fski to Kief. On the post-roads where coaches do not yet run, a britshka or open cart without springs is used by travellers. Post-horses are to be obtained for private carriages or for post- carriages. No Padorojna is required as in Russia, but it is necessary to pro- duce a passi)ort. Post-horses cost five copecks per horse per verst. The charge for an ojx^n ])ost-carriage without springs is one copeck per verst. The coach- man receives drink-money at the rate of one copeck per verst for each horse. In short, travellers who leave the lines of railway, and are unprovided with a good carriage, will meet with very little comfort ; nor will any good inns or places of refreshment be found, even in the small country towns. , 7. — Language. The Polish language belongs to the north-west gi*oup of the Slavic division of Indo-European tongues. Its principal dialects, though not materially differing from each other, are those of Llasovia, Little Poland and Galicia, Lithuania, and Great Poland, besides the more degenerate Silesian, The alphabet consists of the following letters : — 344 7. — Language. Sect. III. a (short Italian a). a (French on), i), b'(soft like English hy, both consonant). c (tz) L {tch^ very soft, cz (tcA), ch [kh. Ger. ch), d (short Italian). e (short Italian, d (compressed as in yes) § (Fr. in). } hard. short Italian, ^ I hard. n iyr.gn), (short It,), d (compressed, approaching p, p (soft like py^ both consonant), r, rz (Fr. rj in one). s, s' (s/t very soft), sz (s^). * I (short Ital.). w (r). X y (resembling the Ger. li). z, z (Fr ji), z (Fr.;', very soft). j (V consonant), k (hard). + (very hard), 1 (It. gli), I serves to soften various consonants, replacing the ' : drob\ little j-ionltry, gen. drohlio; iyc, to live, zycie^ life; ko/i, horse, gen. konia ; wies\ village, gen. wsi. The accent, except in foreign words and in compounds, is constantly on the penultimate : rudak^ countryman, gen. rodCika^ dat. rodukmvL As in Latin, there is no article : cnotdj virtue, a virtue, the virtue. There are seven cases of declension, nominative, genitive, dative, accusative, vocative, instrumental (mieczcm^ by or with the sword), and locative (after certain prepositions, as lo Bogu, in God). The forms of declension depend upon the termination, the gender, and the kind, words of the same termination denoting persons, animals, and lifeless objects having in the masculine several different forms. The gender of nouns is mostly determined by the termination. There are three genders for nouns, adjectives, pronouns, verbs, and participles. The comj^arative degree is formed by the syllable szy (nom. mas. sing.), the superlative by 7i(ij and szy. The verb is exceedingly rich in forms, serving to express frequency, intensity, inception, duration, and other modes of action or being. The formatives consist chiefly of prepositions and other particles, as in German. Diminutives, denominatives, and other derivatives are abundant. Com- ix)unds are rare. The words of a sentence can Ix^ arranged almost as freely as in Latin, misunderstanding being precluded by the distinctness of the formative terminations. In flexibility, richness, power, and harmony, the Polish is hardly excelled by any other language of P^urope ; its grammatical structure is fully developed and firmly established ; its orthogra])hy precise and perfect. The principal grammars are by Kopczynski, Mrongovius, Bandtke, and Muczkowski (Cracow, 1845) ; the principal dictionaries by Linde and Trojanski (Posen, 1835-46). Poland. 8. — Words and Phrases. 345 8. — Words and Phrases, The emperor The empress The crown prince A grand duke A prince A count A noble The lord Sir or Mr. The head of a village An employ^ A peasant < A policeman A blacksmith A drojky A coachman A postilion A waiter A porter (swiss) „ (carrier) „ (house) A water-can*ier A foreigner Chiof city A town A street A cross-street A square A market A row of shops A shop A quay A gateway Outer door An island A garden A field A cathedral A church A belfry A cemetery A monastery A palace An hotel A restaurant A house { Ts^sazh* Ts^sazhova. Tsesazhecitch. Vielki Ksionzhd. Ksionzhe. Hrahia. Shlakhtsits. Pan, Pan. Sultis. Uzhendnik, Vlostsianin. Khllop. Politsiant, Koval. Dorozhka. Stangret. Potchtilion. Pzhcvodnik. Shva'itsar, Tragazh. Stmzh. Vodocoz. Tsiidzoziemiets. Stolitsa. Miasio. Ulitsa, Ulitchl:a. Plats. Rinek. Zhond shlcpikuf. Sklepik. Nadbzhezhe, Brama, Vkhud. Vispa. Ogriid. Pole. Katedra. Kostsiiill. Dzvonnitsa. Tsmcntazh. Klashtor, Palais. Hotels zaiazd, Pestauratsia. Traktyernya, Dom. A courtyard A villa A room A chemist's A parade-ground A barrack A fort A bridge A river A village A road A hill The bath-house A post station The great bazaar The Exchange Endish Ambassador Endish Consul o To write Paper Ink Pen Pencil To eat To drink To breakfast Breakfast To (line Dinner To sup Supper A portion Soup An ice A roast Beef Veal Mutton Cutlets Beefsteak Fish Ham A fowl A chicken A hare A partridge Hazel grouse { Dzyedzinyiets, Podviizhe, Villa. Pokiii. Apteka. Plats-paradni. Shalass. Fortetsa, Most. Zheka, Vyesi. Droga. Giira. Laznia. Statsya potchtowa, Gluvni rinek. Guielda. Possel Angyelski. Konsul Angyelski. Pissatsi. Papy^r. Atrament, Piuro. Oluvek. Yestsi. Pitsi. Yestsi snyadanii. Snyadanie. Yeslsi obyad, Obyad. Yestsi kolatsyon, Kolatsya. PoHsia. Zupa. Lodi. Pyetchenia. Volovina. Tsyelentsina. Baranina, Kotleti. Bifshtik. Piba. Shinka, Kura. Kurtche. Zayonts. Kuropatva, Yazhonbek, * The words are written here as they should be pronounced, not as they are spelt, sounds have been given to the letters as in the Russian vocabulary. The same 346 8. — Words and Phrases, Sect. Ill Blackcock Tsyetzhev. A hat KapeUish. Capercailzie Glushets. A fur cloak Skuba. Potatoes Kartofel. A pair of boots JJuti. Peas Grokh. A bath Kompyel. Cucumbers Ogurki. A washhand-basiu Mycdnitaa. Pears Grushki. A towel Pentshiu'k. Apples Yablha. Soap Mydlo. Nuts Orzhekhi. A dressing-gown Schhifrock. White bread Bulka. A boat Lndka, Black bread KUeb. A carriage Knreta. Pancakes Bliny. A cart Pritchka. Cheese Syr. A wheel Kolo. Butter Mash, The pole Dyshel. Eggs Yaya. The wooden arch Pug a. Cream Smyetanka. A cord Porniz. Milk Mleho. A hoi-se Koni. Wine Vino. Horses Konye. Corn brandy Vudka. Hay Syano. Beer Pivo. Straw Sloina. Coffee Kara. A book Ksyonzhka. Tea Herhata. A snow-storm Ziivfjcruklia. Sugar Tsukycr. Ice Livd. Water Vodii. Half Pal, polova. A glass of water Shklanka vody. A quarter Chctcierti. Hot water Gorontsa I'odu. dj-eat Pnzld. Cold water Zinina voda. Little Mali. Salt Pepper Sul. Piepzh. Beautiful ( Pyenkni (fern. \ Pyenkna. Vinegar Otset. Old Stari (fern. ra). Mustard Mushtarda. Mew Kovi (fem. ra). A trunk Kuffer. Yes Tak, tak yest. Portmanteau Thmok. No Nye. Travelling-bag Vorek podruzhni. Good, very well Dohzh^. Box or case Paka. Not good, not well Zly€. A tea-urn Samovar. Bring Pzhenyes. A tea-pot Herhatnitchka. For Dla. A pail Vyadro. More Vycntsei. A bottle Butelka. Less Mniyei. A glass Shklanka. That To. A cup Filizhanka. Enough Posits. A wine-glass Ky€lishek. ■ Not enough Nye dosits. A plate Talezh. Too long Za dlugo. A knife Nuzh. Give Pai. A fork Videlets, Give me Dai mi. A spoon Lizhka. Give us Dai nam. A table Stul. Now Teraz. Abed Postsyel. It cannot be done Nye mozhna. A stove Pycts. Do better Zrvb lepye'i. Fire Oijien. Father Oitsyets. A light (candle) Sviyetsa. Mother Matka. A napkin Serveta. Biother Brat. A duster Stsyerka. Sister Syostra. Poland. 8. — Words and Phrases. 347 Dialogues. Good day. Good night. Good bye. If you please. Thank you. Here. Who is there? Come here. Hallo ! here. I come directly. I hear and obey. Directly. Let us go (on foot). Let us go (in a carriage). Go on. Drive gently. Never mind, or nothing. Hurry quick. Drive tivster. Have a care. Give room, give place. To the right. To the left. Go further on. Drive home. Stop, Tell me. What is it ? How do they call it ? What does it cost? How much the aishin? How much the pound ? It is dear. It is much. It is cheap. Can you give change? I don't know. Not wanted. I won't have. Is it ready ? Set the tea-urn. Give us a spoon. What's to be done? What's o'clock ? In how many hours ? Is it possible ? Where is the inn ? How many versts ? Wheie is the landlord? I will pass the night here. When do you start ? To-day, Dzyeni dohri. Dohra nets, Zhegnam, Proshen, yeslilaska. Dzyenkuyen. Davai! Kto tarn ? Puidz tit. Khe! slukJiai! Zaraz pzhy'iden. Slukham. Zaraz. Pudzyemi. Poyedzyem. Pdz pretch. Volno. To nits. Prendzei. Ycdz prendzi. Ostrozhnye. Zdrogi. Na pravo. Na levo. Ycdz dalei. Po domu, Stui. Proshen mi poviedzyets. Tso to yest ? Yak to syen naziva 9 Tso to koshtuye i Po tchemii arshin ? Po tchemii funt ? To drogo. To duzho. To tan; 10. Tchi mojzhe dats reshten ? Nye viem. Nye potzheba. Nye khtscn. 2'chi gotov '/ Poda'i proshen samovar. Poda'i proshen lyzhken. Tso teraz robits i Ktura godzina "? Za He godzin 9 Tchi to bits mozhe f Gdzye traktyernya i Vyele v;/orst 9 Gdzye gospodazh — gdzye pan ? Ya khtscn tuta'i pgzhcnotsovats. Kycdi Pan veyedzye i Dzis, R 3 348 8. — Words and Phrases, Sect. III. Poland. To-morrow. In an hour. It is time to be off. Which is the way to — — ? Pray show me the way. "What kind of a road is it? Are the horses to ? What is it to pay for them ? Drink money. I will give you drink money. I will not give you drink money. W^hat station is it ? How long do we stop ? Where is the refreshment-room ? Where is the W. C. ? Wliere is the telegraph-office ? Where is the luggage? Yutro. Za godzincn, Pora yehats. Kturendi droga do ? Poshen pokazats mi droguen, Yaka to droga ? Tshi yuj zapjzhenjzhono ? Tso syen nalezhi i Trinkgeld, na vudhcn. Ya dam na vudken. Ya nye dam na vudhcn. Yaka to stats ia '/ Yak dingo syen zatzhimuyc? Gdzye yest buffet ? Gdzye ycst prevet, Gdzye telegraff Gdzye pakunhi i Names op the ^Ionths, &c. .Tanuaiy Stitshen. Wednesday Sroda. February Luti. Thursday Tchvarteh, March Mazhets. Friday Pyontek. April Kvyetsyen. Saturday Sobota. j\lay Mai. Sunday Nyedzyela, June Tshervyets. Winter Zima. July Lipyets. Summer Lato. August Syerpycn. A year Rok. September Vzhesyen, A month Myesyonts. October Pazdezyemih. A week Tydzyen. November Listopad. A day Dzyen. December Grudzyen. An hour Godzina. Monday Ponyedzalek, Half an hour Pulgodziny, Tuesday Vtorek. The Numerals. 1. Yeden. 21. Dva-dzyestsy a ycden. 2. Dva, 22. Bva-dzyestsyadva. a. Tshi. And so on, always adding the unit up 4. Tshteri. to ten ; and then 5. Pyents. 30. Tshidzyesisi. 6. Shests. 40. Tchterdzyestsi. 7. Syedem, 50. Pyents-dzycs yont. 8. Osyem. 60. Shests-dzyesyont. 9. Dzyevyents. 70. Syedem-dzyesyont, 10. Dzyesyents. 80. Osyem-dzyesyont. 11. Yeden-nastsye. 90. Dzyevyents-dzyesyont. 12. Di'a-nastsy€. 100. Sto. And so on, always adding nastsye to .500. Pyents set. each number, up to 1000. Tisyonts. 20. Jha-dzyestsya. •\ 9. — Literature. 9. — Literature. 349 It lias already been mentioned in the Historical Notice that until towards the end of the eighteenth century the Polish historians wrote almost exclu- sively in the Latin language. Poland has also produced more than one poet whose habitual literary language was the Latin. The sermons of one of her finest preachers (Skarga — end of sixteenth and beginning of seven- teenth century) have been translated into French. The best available account of Polish literature, ancient and modern, for readers in the West of FAirope, is to be found in Mickiewicz's lectures, entitled *Cours de Litte'rature Slave.' Mickiewicz's poems have been translated into French by his fellow- countryman, Christian Ostrowski. Mickiewicz, Krasinski, and Bogdan Zaleski, the three greatest poets of modern Poland, all died in exile since 1855. Mickiewicz was a native of Lithuania, Krasinski of the kingdom of Poland, Bogdan Zaleski of the Ukraine. Lelewel, one of the°most learned historians of Poland, and a leading member of the democratic party in the Polish emigration, died at Paris in 1861. Szai- nocha, a less political and more impartial historian than Lelewel, whose labours (which have cost him his sight) throw great light on the origin of Poland and the Polish nobility, lives at Lemberg (Galicia), where Vincent Pol, the author of numerous charming poems, also resides. Vincent Pol was half murdered in the Galician massacres of 1846. The young poet Piomanowski was killed in the late insurrection. The poetess " Deotyma," celebrated for her improvisations, lived in Warsaw until the troubles of 1863, when, her father being sent into exile, she determined to accompany him. Modern Polish literature is nearly all of one colour, and founded on one sad theme ; and, in the lives of the principal writers, that of the country itself seems to be reflected. 10. — Measures, Weights, and Coins. The legal measures and weights are the same as in Piussia ; but some of the German weights and measures are still used in trade. 'J'he coinage is the same as in Pussia, with the exception of a coin, much current, called 10 grosh, value 5 copcks. ROUTES. [The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described.'] ' ROUTE PAGE 34. Berlin to Warsaw, via Brom- berg nnd Thorn 351 35. St. Potorsburg to Warsaw, via Wilna 360 36. Vienna to Warr^aw 361 37. Warsaw to Lodz 362 38. Warsaw to Sandomir, up the Vistula .362 39. Warsaw to Prussian Frontier, down the Vistula .... 362 ROUTE PAGE 40. Warsaw to Cracow, via Badom and Kidtse 363 41. Warsaw to Novogeorgievsk . . 364 42. Warsaw to St. Petersburg, via Pultush, OsfrolenJm, and Kowno 364 43. Warsaw to Moscow, via Brest- Litevslci and Bolyrukh . . 364 44. Warsaw to Kief, via Brest . . 365 45. Warsaw to Lemberg, via Xw&Zm 366 KOUTE 34. BERLIN TO WARSAW, VIA BR05IBERG AND THORN, BY RAIL. Trains from the Eastern Railway (Frankfort-on-Odcr) Terminus at Berlin morning and evening {vide Handbook for Northern Germany). The kingdom of Poland is entered at Alexandrov, frontier stat., where pass- ports and luggage are examined. The next stat. is Vlotslavek, on the Vistula, about 120 m. from Warsaw. Pop. 8500. Considerable trade in grain. A ca- thedral. Ostrov. There is a large sugar manufactory here. A line hence to Posen is projected, and being surveyed. Kutno, 80 m., a town of 5600 Inhab., on small river Okhna. Lovit.>>h, 52 m., a district town on river Bzur, of great antiquity, having existed as early as the 12th centy. Pop. 6000. It is now a thriving in- dustrial and commercial town. Con- siderable fairs for horses and cattle held there. At a short distance from the town, at Lishkovitse', is a largo sugar-refinery; in the vicinity is Nie- borov, a fine castle, and Arcadia, a pretty villa, belonging to the Princes Kadziwill. Skiemievitse, about 40 m. from Warsaw. Pop. 3000. Junction for Vienna-Warsaw Eailway. This was anciently the residence of the Arch- bishops of Gnesen, Princes Primate of Poland. It was given by the Emperor Alexander I., together with some ex- tensive domains confiscated by the Prussian Government after the partition of Poland, to Marie Grudzinska, created at the same time Princess of Lovitsli, on the occasion of her marriage with the Grand Duke Constantino, brother of the Emperor. At her death the Prin- cess bequeathed all this property to tlio kings of Poland. A fine deer-park to be seen. , Ruda Guzovska, 27 m. There is a flax-mill here, founded by Gerard, a French engineer resident in Poland. A short distance from the stat. arc some of the largest sugar manufactories 352 Boiite 34. — Warsaw, Sect. III. in Poland, viz., at Guzov, Hermanov, and Oryshev. Two small stats, beyond (Grodzisk and Pruslikov) is Warsaw.— Pop. 181,000. Hotels.— Hotel do I'Europc, cuisino bad; 11. d'Angleterre, cuisino good, accommodation very bad (Napoleon' occupied a room here on liis flight from Moscow) ; the Cracow, Paris, Vilenski, Rome, and Saxe Hotels. Bestaurants.— At the Hotel do I'Eu- rope and the Hotel d" Angle terre. Vehicles. — Drojkies are stationed in the streets. The fare is 20 coi)ecks tlie journey, or 75 cops, i)cr hour. The charge for a whole day is 5 rubles (15s,). Elegant and clean carriages may bo ob- tained at the hotels. Cliihs. — The Resource of the Mer- chants and the New Resource of the Merchants. The Russian Club, in the confiscated Zamoyski palace, in New World-street. Strangers may become members, but must be balloted for. British Comulate General. — Corner of the Alice and Place Ujazdovski, where any information can be obtained relative to passports, &c. Topography. — Warsaw is situated on the 1. bank of the Vistula, at a con- siderable elevation alcove the water- level. The Prague suburb lies on the rt. bank of the river. Founded in the r2th centy., it became in tlie 14tli tlie Beat of the princes of the royal family of Piast, appanaged by the ducliy of Ma- sovia. On the extinction of that brancli at tiie commencement of the lOtli centy., tlie duchy of Masovia, a feudal posses- sion of Poland, reverted to the Crown, and soon after the kings of Poland, 1x3- gimiing with Sigismund HI., made War- saw their residence, and consequently the capital of the kingdom. The town was originally composed of the Stare Miasto, or old town, strongly rcsembUng the old towns of Germany. The castle of the Dukes of Masovia stood at one extremity, and it was en- circled by vast suburbs, long since incor- pomted with the town. Its present ap- pearance is pretty, gay, and animated, but it offers little of interest to the tra- veller who is not attracted by business or by a desire to make the country his special study. In order to have a general view of the town tlie visitor should proceed to the terminus of the St. Petersburg Rly., in the Prague suburb, whence a vast panorama spreads out in every direction. On the high bank of the Vistula oppo- site will be seen successively the cita- del, the old portions of the town, the castle {Zameli) with its gardens, the new parts of the town, and, lastly, the public promenades and gardens which environ the imjierial villa of Lazienki. For a bird's-eye view the traveller should ascend the cupola of the Lu- theran ch. From that elevation will be seen the scxuare of the Royal Castle and the 4 princijial arteries of circula- tion : — the 1st through the old town, towards the citadel and the country- seats of INIariemont and Bielany; the 2nd along Senator-st.. Electoral-st., and Khlodna-st., towards the Vola suburb ; the ord along the street called the Cracow suburb, through New World-st. and the avenues towards Lazienki and the Castle of Villanov ; and the 4th across the bridge on the Vistula, and through the Prague suburb, towards the battle- ground of Grokhov. The Square of the Royal Castle should be the starting-point for visiting the town in detail. It was the scene of the most important popular demonstra- tions in 18<;i, wiien it was twice stained witii the blood of the people. A bronze statue stands in the square, re- presenting King Sigismund III. (Wasa), erected on a monolith of native marble, by his son Vladislas IV., ornamented with Polish eagles, and recently sur- rounded with fountains. Opposite is the Royal Castle, called the Zamel:, Iniilt by the Dukes of Masovia. Addi- tions were made to it by Sigismund III. and Vladislas IV. of tl^o Wasa dynasty, whoso arms are still seen on the keystones of the arches. The castle was restored by Augustus III. of Saxony, and embellished by Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski. The pictures Poland. Route 34. — Warsaio. 353 and objects of art by which it was ndomea were carried away after 1831 to St. Petersburg and Moscow. Since that year the castle has ceased to be an imperial residence. The royal apart- ments, situated in the eastern part of the building nearest the gardens and the Vistula, are occupied by the Lieu- tenant of the Emperor. Tlie western part of the edifice, near the square, con- taining the halls where the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies of Poland once assembled, is now a barrack. The arches that support the terraces of the gardens are converted into cavalry stables, A small palace, called Fod blakhon, situate^d below the castle, bought of the Counts Lubomirski by King Sta- nislaus Augustus, for his nephew Prince Joseph Poniatowski, and now occupied by the Diplomatic Chancery of the Lieutenant, communicates with the castle. A gallery leads from the latter to the royal pew in the cathedral. Having obtained a general idea of the topography of the town, and visited the Castle Square, the tiTiveller who can alford the time should take the 4 walks here described, and stop to see the buildings and objects enumerated. Those, however, who do not wish to stay more than a day or two at Warsaw (and few travellers have found it neces- sary to remain longer), will be satisfied with viewing the castle and some of the princely residences in which the city abounds. A visit to Villanov and La- zienki must not in any case be omitted. If driving be substituted for walking, all the places to which the traveller is here introduced may be seen in 2 ilays. 1st WaVc—Leaving the Castle Square by St. John-st., the Old Town will Ije entered. First will be seen the Cathe- dral, built in the I3th centy. It be- came an archie} )iscopal ch. in 1818, having been previously only collegiate. It was restored and ornamented by the kings Michael Visniovietski and John Sobleski, whose arms are seen over the royal pew and the stalls. There is a fine portrait in mosaic of the Prince Pruiiato Poniatowski, brother of the King. A monument by Thorwaldsen is dedicated to Count Malakhovski, Marshal of the celebrated Diet which drew up the Constitution of the 8rd May, 1792. The inscription on it is — Przyiacieloid ludu (to the friend of the people). Another monument records the death of the learned Bishop Al- bertrandi, a distinguished historian, and the first President of the Society of the Friends of Science, a kind of academy, founded after the partition of Poland, under Prussian rule, and suppressed by the Russian Government in 1831, A portrait of Cardinal Hosius, Bishop of Varmie (Ermerland), a Pole, and President of the Council of Trent ; and the tombs of 2 Dukes of Warsaw, brothers, of whom one was a bishop, the other a soldier, complete the list of remarkable objects in the cath. to which the attention of the stranger need be directed. 2. Leavhig the ch., and proceeding along St. Jolm-st., the Square of the Old Town will be crossed. Beyond, in Freta-st., are the chs. of the ancient convents of the Paulines and the Dominicans (an old and tine Gothic building). 3. Passing through the quarter called New Town, the visitor will come to the Ch. of Our Lady, the most ancient sacred edifice in Warsaw, but retaining no traces of its antiquity ; then the Ch. of the Franciscans {'^)', and beyond, again, the Sapieha and Sierdkovski Barracks (5), built at the expense of those illustrious families. 6. Leaving these behind, the visitor will reach the Citadel, built in 1831, at the expense of the town of Warsaw, as a punishment for the insurrection of 1830, and with the object of bombard- ing the town in case of another revolu- tion. Within the citidel are several barracks, the arsenal, the prison for poli- tical offenders, and the military tri- bunal by which they are judged. There is also a Russian ch., which was once a Roman Catholic place of worship, attached to a college now suppressed. 7. Passing the citadel and the town, a walk of 2 hrs. will enable the traveller to visit Mariemont, an old country-seat of the wife of John Sobieski ; 8, Cas- kada, much frequented by the inhabs. 354 Boute 34. — Warsaw: Sect. III. of Warsaw ; 9, Bielany, a pretty pkce on the Vistuld, commanding a fine view; 10, Camaldolite Ch. and con- vent; 11, the Summer Camp of the Russian troops quartered at Warsaw; and (12) the Catholic Cemetery of FovonsJii, full of fine monuments and tonabs of men remarkable in politics, science, and art. On returning to town the Field of Mars (lo), or mihtary exercise-ground, will be passed ; also the Israelite Hos- mtal (14), the best kept of all the hospitals in to^vn ; (15) the Lunatic Asylum; and farther still (IG), the populous trading and ill-smeUing quar- ter occupied by Jews, where the Iron- worhs of Messrs. Evans, Lillpop, and liau, tlio largest establishment of the kind in the country, are situated. In Krasiiiski-squarc, beyond, is the Senate- house (17), or old Krasinski Palace, given by that illustrious family to the Republic of Polani'ted by the Government, and consti- tute a mono])oly. The Balleterinas are very good at Warsaw. Italian operas are sometimes given. (4) The iV///Mvill be seen in Biilanska-st., oft' tlie square. Proceeding aloug Senator-str. the tra- veller will come to (5) the lieformed Church (belonging to a reformed order of Franciscan friars). This beautiliil edifice contains a monument to Grand IMarshal Bieliuski, who contributed greatly towards introducing oriler and a police system in the ancient Republic. In front of the ch. is (6) a Statue of the Holy Virgin, very prettily illumiiiated at night. Opposite is (7) a Clah, ctilled Poland. Boute 34. — Warsaw. 355 Tlie Besource of the Merchants, located in a palace that once belonged to the Marquises Myszkovski, whose title and entailed estates have passed to the family of Count Wielopolski, so well known in connection with revolutions in Poland. The Bank Squ.are is a little way beyond. In it stands (8) the Palace of the Counts Zamoiski, built in a few weeks by King Augustus II., for the Countess Orzelska, his much-loved natural daughter. Belonging at pre- sent to one of the richest and most illustrious families of Poland, it con- tains some fine pictures, and many remarkable objects of art. Opposite is (9) the Bank of Poland, with a fine Exchange-hall. Next to this are (10) the handsome l)uikUngs of the Ministry of Finance. Following the Bymarska and Przhejazd streets in the same di- rection, the Old Arsenal (11) will be seen, where, on the 29th November, the most sanguinary conflict at the beginning of the revolution of ISoO took place ; there also is the Ministry of the Interior, in the old Mostovski Palace (12). Returning a short dis- tance and following ie8/ >» » .»> 5> j hallelujah, k keen. 1 lay. m may. n nay. not. p pay- Q q occurs only in foreign names. E r has the sound of r in ray, and is always distinctly pronounced. S s / „ 8 say. T t „ t tailor. TJ u „ GO root. W w V V „ V vale. X X occurs only in foreign names. Y y has the sound of the French u in sur. Z z occurs only in foreign names. A a has the sound of ea in swear. u but. o ,. ^i girl. ea earl. Diphthongs. ie is a diphthong, pronounced as in fimcier. uo has the sound of the Italian uo in buona. yo ,, nearly as eou in extraneous. ai ,, of ie in pie. ei „ i slight. oi „ oi spoil. ui like oo-ee ; a quick contraction as in the French Louis. yi has the sound of ui in the French puis, quickly contracted. ai .. ie tie. the German oi quickly contracted, or „ eu in feuor (fire). iiu „ tlie Italian au in audace. eu like ay-oo, f. i. neula (needle) is pronounced like nay-oolah, or na-oolah. iu like ee-oo, f. i. kiuru (lark) is pronounced like keeooroo, quickly con- tracted. ou like o-oo, f. i. koura (gripe) is pronoimced like ko-oorah, quickly con- tracted. ay like ou in moutli. oy like the Genuan sound oii, quickly contracted. * The g has the nasal sound even when at the commencement of the following syllable, as Kunin-gas (kuig) is prunouiiced Kooning-ass, the pure g or gay sound not being heard. .{ The emperor Keisari. The empress Keisarinna. The crown prince Perintd-ruhtinas. A grand duke Saitri-ruhtinas, A prince Ruhtinas. A count Kreiui. A noble Aatelinen. The lord Herra. Sir, or IMr. Herra. The head of a village Kyldn wanhin. A fishennan Kalamies. An employe' Wirhamies. A peasant Talonpoiha. A policeman Folisi-mies. A blacksmith Eautaseppd. A drojky or sledge- ) Iswossikha, Ajo ) mies. driver A coachman Ajaja, renhi. 1 HoUimies. A postilion \ Postiljiioni {of t { Fast Office). A waiter Passari. A porter Portin wartia. A water-carrier Vedenkulettaja . A foreigner Ulkomaalainen. Chief city Piidkaupimti. A town Kaupunti. A street Katu. A cross-street Syrjdkatu. A square Tori. A market Kauppatori, A row of shops Puoti-riwi. A shop Puoti. A quay Eantakatu. A gateway Portti. Outer door Ulko-owi. An island Saari. A garden Trtti-tarha. A field Keto. A cathedral Tnoyiilo-kirkko. A church Kirkko. A belfry Kello-kastari. A cemetery JIautmismaa. A monastery Luostari. A palace Palatsi, howi. An hotel Ilotelli. A restaurant Rawintola. A house TalOf kartano. A courtyaixi Piha. A villa Hnvila. A room Kainmari, suoja. 8. — Words and Phrases. 3. — Words and Phrases. A chemist's The parade-ground A barrack A fort A bridge A river A villacje A road A hill The bath-house A post station The Exchange English Ambassador< English Consul To write Paper Ink Pen the Pencil To eat To drink To breakfast Breakfast To dine Dinner To sup Supper A portion Soup An ice Cabbage soup Pie A roast Beef Veal Mutton Cutlets Beefsteak Fish Ham A fowl A hen A chicken A hare A partridge Hsizel - grouse ( Te-) trao honasia) j Black cock Cajiercailzie Potatoes 375 Apteekki. Parati'kenUd. Kasarmi. Linna. Silta. Wirta, joki. Kijld. Tie. Vaori. Sauna. HolUpaikka. Porssi. En/jlannin Idhetti- Ids. Emjlannin Kornml. Kirjoittaa. Paperi. Ldkki. Pdnndy ki/nd. Lyijys-pdnnd. Syodd, ruokaella. Juoda. Murkinoida. Mnrkina. Syodd pdiwdllistd. Pdiudllinen. Illastella. Illallinen. Portsia. Suppi, A la glace. Kaali-snppi. Piirakka. Paisti. Paawaan liha. Wasikan liha. Lampaan liha. Kotlettia. Hdrdnpiaisiia. Kala. Pdysti, kinkku. Lintu. Kana. Kananpoika. Idnis. Metsdkana. Pyy- Teiri. Metso. Potaattia. 370 3. — Words and Phrases. Sect. IV. Finland. 3. — Words and Phrases, 377 Peas Cucumbers Apples Nuts White bread Black bread Pancakes Cheese Butter Eggs Cream Milk Wine Pears Corn brand V Beer Coffee Tea Sugar Water A glass of water Hot water Cold water Salt Pepper Vinegar Mustard A tiomk Portmanteau Travelling-bag Box or case A tea-urn A tea-pot A pail A bottle A glass A cup A wine-glass A plate A knife A fork A spoon A table Abed A stove Fire A light A napkin A duster { JTemeitd. Kurkkuja. Omcnin. Fdhhinuitd. Walkea Icipu. Miista leipd. Fannun Kakhxja. Juustoa. « Woita. Munia. Pddllistd, Taalctta. Maitoa. Wiinid. ]*erunoita. Wiinaa. Olntta. Kahvea. Tccta. Sokeria. Wettu. LasilUnen wettd. Kicliuwata icettd. Kylmdd iccttd. Suolaa. Pippuria. Atikhdd. Sinappia. Arkku, Kirstu. Kapsdkhi. Mntka-piissi. Wakka, rasia, laa- tikko. Samowari, Tee-kannu. Ampdrif kippa. Puteli. Juoma-lasi. Kuppi. llyyppy-lasi. Talrekki, lautancn. Weitsi. Kah'.celi. Lusikka, Poytd. Sd7iky. Unni. Tulta, walkeaa, Kynttild. Salwetti. Riepu. A hat Hattu. A fur cloak Turkki. A piir of boots Saappaat. A bath Kylpy. A dressing-gown Yij-takkiy halatti. A boat Wene. A can'iage Waunu. A cart Kdrrit, rattaat. A wheel Pyord. The pole Aisa. A cord Nitora. A horse .Hciconen. Horses Ifewosia, Hay Hcinid. Straw Olkia. A book Kirja. A whip Piiska. A snow-storm TxiiskUy Pyry. Ice Jdd. Half Puoli. A quarter Ncljdnnes. Great Suuri^ ISO. Little Pieni, wdhd. Beautiful Kannis, ihana. Old Wanha. New Uiisi. Yes NU71. No Ex. Good, very well Oikcen, hywdsti. Not good, not well ( Wddrin, pahasti, \ hionosti. Bring Tuokaa. For me MiiiuUe. More Enemmdn, Less Wdfiemmdn. That Tdmd. Enough Kylld, piisaa. Not enough Ei piisaa wield. Too long Aiican kauwan. Give Anna. Give me Anna minulle. Give us Anna meille. Now Nyt. It cannot be done Situ ei tvoi tehdd. Do better Tee paremmin. Feather Isd. Mother Aitif emo. Brother Weli. Sister Sisar, DlAIiOGUES.— Kanssa-puiieita. Kgp Good day. Good night. Good bye. If you please. Thank you. Here. Who is there ? Here, here, sir. Come here. Hollo! here. I come directly. 1 hear and obey. I)irectly. Let us go (on foot). Let us go (in a ciirriage). Go on. Drive gently. Never mind, or nothing. Hurry quick. Drive faster. Have a care. (Jive room, give place. To the right. To the left. Go further on. Drive home. Stop. Tell me. What is it? How do they call it ? What does it cost ? How much the arshin ? How much the pound ? It is dear. It is much. It is cheap. Can you give change ? Ditto. I don't know. Not wanted. I won't have. Is it ready ? Set the tea-urn. Give us a spoon. What is to be done? What's o'clock ? In how many hours ? Is it possible ? Where is the inn ? How many versts ? { Ilyicdd pdiwdd. Ili/icdd yotd. Jddkdd hy^i-dsti. Olkaa niin hywd. Pal j on kiitosta. Tdssd. Kuka sielld ? TdnnCy tdnne herra. Tule tdnne. Hoi I kunle. Mind tulen paikalla. Mind noudatan kdskydnne. Paikalla, heti. Astukaamnie^ menhddmme. Ldhtekddmme, ajakaamme. Mene tichesi. Hiljaa. Ei mitddn. Joudu pian. Mene icdlcmmin. Kawata, Pais tieltd ; tie auki. Oikcaan. Wasempaan. Pois ctemmdksi. Kotia Aja. Seisata. Sanokaa minulle. Mikd se ? 3Iiksi sitd kntsutaan ? Paljonko maksaa ? 3fikd Junta ? Paljonko arsinalta ? Paljonko naulalta ? Sc on kallis. Se on paljon. Se on huokeata. Woitteko waihtaa rahaa ? Onko tcilld takaisin antaa ? En ticdd. Ei liuoli. En huoli. Onko se walmis ? Walmista samowari. Anna meille lusikka, Mitds tehdd 1 Monce tiinti? Monessako tunnissa ? or monenko tunnin pcrdstd ? Onko se mahdollista ? Missd kestkiewari'i Montako wirstaa ? 378 Where is the landlord ? I will pass the night here. When do you start? To-day. To-morrow. In an hour. It is time to be off. Which is the way to — — 3. — Words and Phrases, } Sect. IV. Finland. 4. — Measures^ Weights, and Coins, 379 Pray show me the way. Where is the fisherman ? What kind of a road is it ? Are the horses to ? What is to pay for them ? Drink money. I will giv'eyou drink money. I will not give you drink money. What station is it ? How long do we stop ? Whei-e is the refreshment-room ? Where is the W. C. ? Where is the telegraph-office ? Where is the luirsase ? { I Names op the Months, Kuukausien nimet. January February IMarch April May June July August September October November December Monday Tuesday one, yksi. two, kaksi. three, kolme. four, neljd. five, viisi. six, kuusi. Tammihiu, Jfclmiknu. Maaliskuu. Ihihtikmi. Tottkokuu. Kcsakitu, Heiniikun. Eloknn. Syyskmt. Lokakuu. Marraskuu. Joulukuu. Maanantni, Tiistai, Missd isdntd ? Mind tahdon olla tdssd yotd, Milloinka te nousettc '/ Tdndpdnd. Huomenna. Tunnin pcrdstd. Aika on Idhted. *Mistd tie inenee -aan, -een, 'iin, 'Oon -nun, -yyn, -ddn, -don. Olkaa niin hyvcd, ndyttdkdd minulle tie. Missd kalamies? Mikd tie td/nd 07i ? Oicatko hewoset waljaissa ? Paljonko kyytiraha tekee f Juoinara/iaa. Mind annan juomarahaa. Mind en anna juomarahaa. Mikd hollipaikka tdmd on ? Montako minuttia viiwymme tdssd ? Missd raicinto-hnone i Missd ihmistcn ulko-huone ? Missd telegrafi-laitos ? Missd t a war at ? Days of the Week, etc. Wiikonpaiwatyj. n. e. Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Winter Summer A vear A month A week A dav An liour Half an hour Kcskiiciikko, Torstai. Perjantai. Lamcantai. Sunnuntai. Talwi. Kesd, suici, Waosi. Knukaiisi. Wiikko. Pdiud. Tunti. Puolituntia. The Numerals.— Luwut. seven, seitsemdn. eight, kahdeksan, nine, yhdcksdn. ten, kymmciien. t eleven, yksi-toista. twelve, kaksi'toista. And so on, always adding toista to each number up to twenty, kaksi-kymmentd. twenty-one, kaksi-kymmenid-yksi. twenty-two, kaksi-kymmentd-kaksi. And so on, always adding the unit up to one hundred, as thirty, kolme-kymmentd. forty, neljd-kymmentd. fifty, wiisi'kymmentd. sixty, kuHsi-kymmentd. seventy, scitsemdn-kymmentd. eighty, kahdeksan-kymmentd. ninety, yhdeksdn-kymmentd. one hundred, sata. two hundred, kaksi sataa. three hundred, kolme sataa, etc. one thousand, tuhatta. two thousand, kaksi tuhatta. three thousand, etc., kolme tuhatta, j. n. e. Ex. gr. Haminaan, to Fredrikshamn ; Helsinku"??, to Ilelsingfors; KuopiooTj, to luiopio; Ouluun to Uleaburg; JyvvliskylfVa/^ to Jywuskyla, &c. The harmony of the vowels always observed, except in foreign names -Londontm, Brysselun, to Ix>ndon, to Urussels. where im 'is the rule. 4. — Measures, Weights, and Coins. Measures of Length. — Pituuden Mitat. = 3*08 Finnish {foot = ) jalkaa, 1 jalka = 12 tuumaa = 12 linjaa. = 1 sylta. = 1 kyynara. = 4 waaksaa eli korttelia. = 6 tuumaa. = 10 wirstaa. = 600 sylta. Measures of Capacity.— Awaruuden Mitat. = 0'576 gallons English. = 2 tuoppia. = 4 korttelia. = 4 jumfrua. Dry ]\Ieasure. — Kuiwatawarain Mitta. = 4-536 bushels. = 30 kappaa. = 2^'jj kannua. = 7;V kappaa. Weights. — Paino-mitta. )is = 1'067 lbs. (naulaa) Finnish avoiixJupois. = 32 luotia. = 4 kintiniii. = 1 (1. lb.) leiwiskiiii. = 1 (s. lb.) sippunta. = 228 1.1b. (leiwiskaii). Coinage. Finland having lately obtained an independent currency, the people calculate in marks and pennies, of which 100 to the mark. One mark is equal to 25 copecks ; consequently, 4 marks aie equal to 1 Silver ruble ; but when changing Russian paper money into Finnish marks at the present exchange, only 3 marks and 45 pennies will be allowed. In August, 1866, the exchange was so low as 2 marks 80 pennies per Russian ruble. The traveller will have no difficulty in ascertaining the current exchange by merely referring to any of tlie public newspapers kept on board the steamers. At the rates published there, Mi". Heinibcrger, agent, at Helsingfors, for the Scandia Insurance Company, will be happy to exchange any amount. 1 yard (inches). 1 tuuma 1 6 jalkaa 2 jalkaa 1 kyyniirii H 1 waaksa 1 1 penikulma 1 wirsta 1 M 1 kannu Finnish ■ 1 kannu 1 1 tuoppi 1 kortteli iSgc'.- 1 tynnyri 1 tynnyri 1 kappa 1 nelikko 1 1 pound avoirdup 1 naula 1 1 luoti 1 20 naulaa (lb.) 20 leiwiskii (1. lb.) 1 laiwan liisti 380 5. — Steamboats. 6. — Travdllng, 5. — Steamboats. Sect. IV. The most convenient and asjreeable mode of visiting; Finland is by sea. There are now four excellent and commodious steamships plying regularly during the summer mouths between St. Petersburg and Stockholm, by one of which the tourist (after having seen to his passport) should secure a passage as soon as possible. These vessels at present leave either end of the line, that is to say St. Petersburg and Stockholm, every Tuesday and Friday morning ; the boat from St. Petersburg calls and remains the first night at Wyborg, the second at Helsingfors (there crossing the boat from Stockholm), the third at Abo, and Stockholm on the 4th. The boat from Stockholm calls and remains the first night at Abo, the second at Helsingfors (there crossing the St. Petersburg boat), the third at Wyborg, and reaches St. Petersburg on the 4th. The voyage is thus completed in four days, with only about 50 hours of actual travelling, during which time the vessel winds her intricate and tortuous but picturesque course amongst the innumerable islands on the Finnish coast. Besides the above, there are two steamers plying weekly between Helsingfors and St. Peters- burg, one via Peval, and the other via Fredrikshamu, Wyborg, &c. There is also a fine ^ line of steamers plying regularly between St. Petersburg, Helsingfors, Abo, Bjurneborg, and up the Gulf of Bothnia to Uleaborg and Tornea. 6. — Travelling — Posting, Mail Coaches, etc. Between May and October, that is to say as long as the sea is open, the best mode of reaching St. Petersburg from Stockholm is by st(;amer. The scenery of the coast, which is ftir more interesting than that inland, is seen to greater advantage, and with half the trouble and ex^K^nse. Moreover, with the exception of the road between Wyborg and St. Petersburg, there are no public conveyances, not even between Abo and Helsingfors, the old and modern capitals of Finland. Between Wyborg and St. Petersburg there is sometimes a coach, but the days of departure cannot by any means be relied on. The best, at least the most comfortable, mode of journeying by land, is in a private carriage; and if the tourist has not the good fortune to ])0ssess one, he had better supply himself with one at Stockholm ; a travelling caleche, with harness complete, may be purchased there for about 20/. At Abo, being at the mercy of the landlord, he will pay more ; moreover, as the stock of carriages there consists of patched-up vehicles which have been purchased from travellers returning from Russia, the chances are that the tourist will, Ix'fore he reaches Helsingfors, find himself brought to a stand-still on the road-side, by a regular break-down of his crazy machine. Carrioles, similar to those used in Norway and Sweden, are the carriages most generally in use in Finland, and by far the best adapted for speed, particularly where the road is sandy, which is the case, more or less, nearly all the way from Abo to Helsingfors, and also along the shore of the (Julf of Botlinia to Bjorneborg, and they far excel veliiclcs of any other construction for whirling down hill at full gallop, — the only plan of descending the sharp pitches in the road with which the Finland. Q,— Travelling : Posting, Mail-Coaches, do. 381 Finnish horses appear to be acquainted. Besides the carriole there is another species of vehicle, called a kihitha, a long narrow cart without springs, and covered with a kind of leather hood, extending over about one-half of the carriage. The bottom of the kibitka is usually provided with a feather-bed, or a thick covering of hay or straw, and on this the traveller reclines at full length. As to repose, it is doubtful whether any will be obtained in such a vehicle ; in addition to which, the traveller sees nothing whatever of the country through which he passes. This kibitka is an introduction from Russia ; the really national carriage of the Finlander is a machine called a hondkara, but the traveller should reflect seriously before he submits his body to the indescribable agonies created by the cart so called, unless, indeed, it is his intention to travel in the telega when he reaches Russia ; in this case it will be well for him to accustom his bones and muscles to the dislocations which he will be subjected to in the Undkara, for, though these two vehicles are equally rough, the roads in Finland are far sup'erior to those in Russia. This machine, which has no sjirings, is nothing more than an oblong kind of box without a back, placed on an^ axle- tree and two wheels, and a board is nailed or tied to the sides like the seat of a taxed cart ; on this bench the traveller and the postilion are seated, and there is no sUght difficulty in keeping an equilibriiun, while on bad parts of the road it is sometimes necessary to cling firmly to it with both hands. Scarcely, too, has the tourist got a little accustomed to the sway and play of this horrid cart, when he finds himself at a post station, where he is obliged to turn out and get into another bondkara, the bench of which is perhaps tied at a difl"erent angle from the last. The roads, however, with the exception of one or two sandy stages, are excellent from Abo to within fifty miles of St. Petersburg, and ten miles an hour may be accomplished ; but it will take a great deal of patience, and all the traveller's muscle and nerve, to get over these last fifty miles. Verst-posts are erected along the roads, and the distance to each town is inscribed on them. In winter there is a regular road across the Gulf of Bothnia to Sweden; and also between Helsingfors and Revel. In March, 1809, Barclay de Tolly crossed over with a division of the Russian army from Wasii to Umea in Sweden. One great advantage in Finland is that the traveller is not obliged to send on a courier. Post-horses, supplied by the neighbouring farmers, are always in readiness at the stations ; and so far from there being any delay, half a dozen Finlanders will frequently be found quarrelling for the honour of earning copecks, and displaying their respective ponies to the best advantage^in order to procure a selection in their favour; and, generally speaking, by the time the traveller has written his name, &c., in the dag- hok, and paid the boy who takes back the horses, everything will be found in readiness for a fresh start. The price of post-horses is much lower than either in Norway or Sweden, being 2 silver coi^cks for each horse per verst. But on quitting Abo. Helsingfors, Lovisa, Frederickshamn, and Wyborg, it is 4 silver coiDccks per verst for each horse for the first stage. The boy or man who drives is amply satisfied with about 6 or 7 copecks per post, which may be taken on the average at about 15 versts. Travelling with two horses, the entire expense does not exceed 4c?. i^er English mile. Between AVyborg and St, Petersburg the expense is somewhat greater, as the traveller has to pay 382 ^,— Travelling. 1, —General View of Finland, Sect. IV. 11 silver ruble for a padarojna, and the drivers expect more in the neighl)ourhood of the capital ; but even then the cxi)ense of actual travelling throughout the whole extent of Finland will not, on the avera^re, exceed 5(/. per English mile. The regular charge for the oj^eration of " smearing," as it is pronounced (though somewhat differently si^elt), is 6 copecks, and travellers should on no account omit having it carefully done under their own inspection every morning before starting. The harness is so made as never to be detached from the carriage when the horses are changed. The traces are always of rope, as is not unfrequently the greater portion of the rest of the tackle ; the reins are not crossed, as in England, but each horse is harnessed quite distinct from his fellow, and on reaching the station the ponies slip out of their trappings, and another pair, without even a bridle or halter, are brought out of the stable to take their places. This indeixindent style of "putting to" is at first somewhat puzzling, particularly when the road is hilly, or runs along the verge of a precipice, or the bank of a mountain stream. It is surprising, however, how soon one gets accustomed to the random travelling over the wild countries of the north, where the roads are for the most part without fence or barrier of any kind, and where, in going down hill, it is absolutely impossible to stop. A low monotonous whistle, on reaching the top of a steep descent, will make the horses go slowly and carefully until they feel the carriage begin to press heaviTy upon them, and then away they go, through sand and stones, whirling round corners like the wind, until they reach the level ground, or, if the road ascends again, they continue their" headlong six'ed to the summit of the next hill. It is quite useless to pull, as the bits are of the lightest description, and their mouths seem quite insensible to all the driver's efforts. They never stumble, and will generally gallop for versts without betraying any symptoms of distress. The posting being so economical, it will be no very great exi)ense to pay the boys well, and twopence \^v stage will be considered very handsome : some i^ersons pay only one penny. As soon as the traveller arrives at a station, he should call lustily for horses (in Swedish, hiistar), adding as many words in that language signifying "make haste," as he can— thus, strax, .mart, and skijnda, all meaning the same thing, will be found of the greatest possible utility. The tourist must then march into the j)ost-liouse, and ask for the dag-hok^ in which every traveller must write his name, the number of horses he wants, whence he comes, whither he is going, and what, if any, complaints he has to make : all the columns are headed with the requisite explanations in Russian. Save when posting in one's own carriage, it will not be possible to keep pace with persons travelling in carrioles. 7. — General View^ of Finland. The sea-coast of Finland presents throughout its entire extent the same succession of fiords and rocky headlands which encircle the whole seaward frontier of Sweden and Norway; but the dimensions of the fiords of Finland are ftir more limited than those to the west of the Gulf of Bothnia, seldom exceeding a few miles in extent, although their mouths contain an equal number of islands ; some of which, as the isles of Svvealjorir, have been converted into fortresses of great strength. The interior of Finland Finland. 1. — General View of Finland. 383 is intersected and broken uj) by a vast number of inland lakes, shooting out their winding arms and branches in all directions; which, while they offer the greatest facilities for internal navigation, render land traveUing circuitous and difficult. Many of the high roads pass over islands on these lakes, the natural strength of whose situation has been taken advantage of to cover them with batteries. There is a most striking difference between the inhabitants of the Finnish provinces to the west and those to the east of Wyborg, more recently severed from Sweden, whose customs and manners, and even language, they had almost universally adopted. The Finlanders along the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia scarcely present any marked distinction from the people on the opposite shore of the Baltic ; but the same good-humoured faces, and apparent anxiety to please, diminish in a very perceptible ratio as you advance further inland. Nearly the same dress, both of men and women, and the readiness with which they all spealv Swedish, make the traveller almost forget that he is in a land that owns the sovereignty of the Tsar. Beyond Wyborg the traveller is suddenly thrown among a strange peojile: beards become almost universal, from the ]~iost-master to the driver — sheepskins are worn, and low-crowned hats with a profusion of buckles; the loose trowsers are tucked into the boots. Swedish is scarcely understood, and dollars and skillings are no longer current. The road becomes level, and wide plains spread their monotonous extent on all sides ; the villages, formed of a long straight row of wooden cottages, lining the road on either side with their gable-ends, are all built exactly alike, and all still and silent, witli scarce a living being to be seen, except a few melancholy-looking children and pigs — the latter certainly curiosities in their way, attenuated, half-starved looking animals, with shai-p-i)ointed snouts. The living in Finland is very tolerable, though certainly by no means luxurious : capercailzie, black-cock, hazel-grouse, and all sorts of fish are to be had in abundance during eight months of the year. When game is not in season, the tourist is strongly recommended to try the Finnish veal, which is most excellent, and equal to any fed in England ; the beef, on the other hand, is miserable, lean, and tasteless. ' Good Bavarian beer is to be had throughout the country. ROUTE. ROUTE 55. STOCKHOLM TO WYBORG, BY ABO AND HELSINGFORS. Finland may be reached from Lubeck by steamer once a week to Helsingfors. Fare 30 rs. The most interesting route is by Gottenburg, and thence to Stock- holm, by rail or canal. Passports must be vis^d by Eussian consul at Stock- holm before applying for a passage. Fare to Helsingfors 13 rubles, not inclusive of living. Steamers leave Stockholm every Tuesday morning for Abo, Helsingfors, Wyborg, and St. Petersburg, passing round the Aland islands at noon. 1. Aland islands at the entrance of the Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland. The inhabitants (16,000) are principally sailors. The ruins of the fortress of Bomarsund, destroyed by an Anglo- French squadron in 1854, are situated on the largest island of the group. They will not be seen from the steamer. 2. Abo. „ The town of Abo is reached at about 7 P.M. {Inn : The Society's House, on the Quay, the best.) ^ On arriving off the Aurajoki, the Abo river, large vessels remain there and discharge their cargoes. The steamer, drawing but little water, proceeds at once to the town. On the hill near the entrance of the river, which is de- fended by the fort of Abohus, now a prison, is the village of Boxholm, with its red painted houses, principally in- habited by tradesmen and fishermen. The first view of Aho (pronounced Obo) is fine : its old castle stands full before you, with the remnant of its massive tower, that braved for centuries the assaults of time and the elements, while on the height beyond is seen the far-famed observatory, now used as a navigation school. Entering the river on which Abo is buUt, the steamer anchors close to the Society's House, and the deck is soon crowded with customs officers, by whom the luggage of the passengers is searched. The passports are examined. The streets of Abo appear at first enormously wide, though they by no means exceed the usual dimensions of Russian towns; but the low stylo of buildiog, almost universal in this town, and the number of sites at present un- occupied by houses, joined to the soli- tary appearance of its almost deserted thoroughfares, give an air of desolation to the whole place. The glory of Abo has indeed departed. It had once a flourishing port and a well-attended university — its trade is now inconsider- able, and its university is removed to Helsingfors, the capital of Finland. A destructive fire, the ravages of which are even now not fully repaired, gave the final blow to its already sinking fortunes. This fearful conflagration, which took place 4 Sept. 1827, consumed nearly the whole city, including the univer- sity and its valuable library, and other public buildings. The fire raged for two whole days, and was not ex- tinguished until 786 houses, out of 1100, were a mass of blackened ruins. When the town was rebuilt, the public edifices, as well as the houses, were placed at a considerable distance from each other, and the town now covers as much ground as Dresden, ;*^««iiS«tiiWte.'iS^i»Ka^ 386 Bouie 55. — Abo — Helsing/ors. Sect. IV. ^hou.Q:li its inhabitants do not exceed 20,000. Abo is the most ancient city in Finland ; its history being co-existent with the reign of Eric the Saint, that is from 1157-llGO, the period at which Christianity was first introduced into this wild and cold region. The castle is as ancient as the town, and arrested more than once the onward inarch of the Kussian armies. It was in the dungeons of this building that Eric XIV. was imprisoned previous to his death, which took place some time afterwards at Orbyhus. The castle is now used as a prison, and is garrisoned by half a battalion of infantry. The Cathedral is also higlily inte- resting, not liowever on acoount of its external appearance, which is coarse and heavy, but for the architectural struc- ture of its interior, which is of tliree epochs. It is more particularly worthy of interest from its having been the cradle of Christianity in Finland — iiere the first episcopal chair was instituted, and for centuries the first families were buried. The vaults of the cliapels are filled with their remains, and some of the monuments are not unworthy of attention. On one of them is an epitaph to Catharina Monsdotter, a girl taken from the ranks of the people by Eric XIV., and who, after having worn the Swedish diadem, returned to Finland and died in obscurity, while her royal husband ended his clays in a prison. In the same chapel, and at the end of it, are two statues in white marble, the size of life, standing on a sarcophagus, sup- ported by columns of black mar])le ; these arc the wealthy and powerful Clas Tott, grancison of Eric XIV., and his wife. The latter seems to have had a wish to perpetuate her admiration for a hand- some toilette, for she is decked out with necklace and bracelets as if for a wedding. In a crypt under this monument lie the remains of Queen Christina of Sweden. In another chapel is the monument of Stalhandsk, one of the generals, and, we may add, heroes, of the Thirty Years' War. There is also a monument to Cock- burn, a Scotchman, who served in the wars of Charles XII. The fire of 1827 completely gutted this church, and Finland. Boufc b^.^Sweaborg—Eetsingfors, m not only were the altar and organ de- stroyed, but even the bells were melted by the devouring element. Subscrip- tions have restored the cathedral, and a patriotic Finlander, a baker by trade, who had amassed about 2500/. in his business, and was without any near re- lative, left that sum to purchase an organ at his death. Effect was given to his wishes, and an organ of 5000 pipes, the largest in the North, now raises its deco- rated and painted head nearly to the roof of the building. The church contains several frescoes by Ekman, a Finlander. On the top of the granite steps which lead up to the cathedral, is an old rusty ring, to wiiich oftenders used to be attached and made to do penance. A fctatue of Professor Purthan stands near the cathedral. There is also a gnmite tombstone over his grave in the ch.-yard. Gustavus Adolphus founded an aca- demy here in 1G30, which Christina subsequently elevated into a university. Abo is distinguished by a treaty, being the spot cm which the relations between Russia and Sweden were settled in 174: J. Here, tcx), Alexander and Bernadottc concludecl tliat treaty which arrayed Sweden against France. o. Hklsingfors. The steamer will reach Ilelsingfors the day on which it leaves Abo. after passing through most singular and inte- resting coast scenery ; it may, however, be sunmied up in three words, sen, granite, firs, — yet these are so con- stantly varied in their position and cir- cumstances that the effect cannot be said to be monotonous. The sea, in some in- stances, is as still as an iidand lake, at others it may be heard beating furiously against the granite rocks to seaward ; few vessels are visible, and those are principally very small craft, carrying wood or fish from the islands to the main land. The steamer passes close to the ruins of the forts at Hango Head. The approach to Helsingfors by water is exceedingly striking. The har- bour is very extensive and well protected by tlie works and fortress of Sweahorg : these are built on 7 islands, and from the extent of the fortifications, and the strength of their position, have been termed the Gibraltar of the North. The original fortress was built by Count Ehrenswerd, High- Admiral of Sweden, whose dying request was that he should 1x5 buried there ; on his monument is the following inscription : — " On this spot, and surrounded by his own work, repose the remains of the Count Au- guste Ehrenswerd." — This fortress was the last rampart of Sweden against the Eussians, and the rallying point of her troops and fleet. On the 6th of March, 1808, it was besieged by the Russians, and on the 6th of April Adm. Cron- stedt, who defended the place with 6000 men and 2 frigates, concluded an armistice on condition that he would deliver up the fortress, with its garrison, its ships, and its plentiful munitions of war, provided he had not received by the 3rd of May a reinforcement of at least 5 ships-of-the-line ; and as the reinforcement never arrived, the fortress was delivered to Gen. Suchtelen on the day stipulated. The secret motives of Adm. Cronstedt's conduct have never been satisfactorily explained. It has been affirmed on the one hand that ^ the officers had become demoralised in ' courage by the sight of the sufferings to which their families were exposed, as weU as by the news of the desperate con- dition of Finland and Sweden which Suchtelen took good care to forward to them ; on the other hand, Adm. Cron- stedt is directly accused of having been bribed by the Russians. The latter supposition has never been proved. After the capitulation Adm. Cronstedt retired to a small estate which he had always possessed, and where he lived honoured and esteemed by his neigh- bours until his death, which took place about 10 years later. He never entered the service of Russia, nor did he receive any marks of Imperial approval ; and he died without leaving any fortune. Sweaborg was bombarded by an Anglo- French squadron in August, 1855. It is not always that a traveller is per- mitted to visit the Fortress of Sweaborg without previously having obtained a ticket from the Police-office or the Go- vernor-General. The forts are, how- ever, well worth seeing, and 2 diminu- Jiussiu — 1868. tive steamers leave every half-hour alternately from the town and forts, the fare being 10 copeks. These steamers can be hired at the rate of 3 rubles per hour by visitors desirous of making an excursion amongst the islands in the neighbour- hood of Helsingfors, in the so-called ^'Skarg&rd." Helsingfors. — Hotels: The Scxjiety House, in the Great Square, and Kleineh's Hotel, both facing the har- bour and close to the landing-place. The former has been rebuilt and mo- dernised, and is preferable. The best room is 1 ruble per diem. /^^eamers.— Every Sunday morning to Abo and Stockholm, to Wyborg and St. Petersburg ; every Monday morning to Reval and St. Petersburg ; every Tuesday morning to Wyborg and St. Petersburg; every Thursday morning to Wyborg and St. Petersburg, to Abo and Stockholm. Once a week to Abo, Bjormborg, Wasa, and Uleaborg, by Bothnian steamers. The town of Helsingfors is, his- torically speaking, comparatively of modem creation, having been founded by Gustavus Wasa in the 16th centy. : its name came from a colony of the province of Helsingland, which had been established in the neighbourhood for several centuries. In 1639, how- ever, the town changed its site, and the inhabitants moved their wooden houses nearer the sea-shore ; and on the spot where Helsingfors now stands. War, plague, famine, and fire ravaged it, each in its turn, and the end of a cen- tury found it with a population of only 5000 souls ; at the present moment it numbers 25,000, exclusive of the garri- syr, 245. Dyurmen, 277. E Earthquakes of Shemakha, 325. Ei, river, 317. Eisk, 317. Ekaterinburg, 329. Ekatorinoslaf, 270, 271 ; pro- vince, 258. Elaghinski Ostroff, 72. Elatma, 227. P^lburz mountains, 327. Elen-Kaya, Cape, 314. Elets, 268. Elizavetgrad, 262. Eliziivetpol, 325. Embach river, 168. Enzclli, lake of, 326. Erivan, 323. Kski-Krlm, 279, 308, 309. Esthonia, 9, 164, 165, 168, 169. Estuary of Ingul and Bug, 274- Etchmiadzeen, convent of, 324- Eupatoria, 278; castle of, 291. Exportation of wheat, 274. Exports of Odessa, 251. Excavations of Mangup, 2^. GADIATCII. i Farming, Russian, 266. Fasts (church), 78. Fairs of Berdicheff, 249; Elizavetgrad, 262; Jitomir, 366; of Kharkofl", 260; of Kremenchuk,262 ; of Kursk, 257; of Nijnl Novgoroi, 222-225, 230; of Orel, 257 ; of Poltova, 261 ; of Rostof, 318; of Voronej, 269. Fedotief village, 265. Finnish tribes, 264. Fisheries of the Don, 318. Forests of Talish, 326. Fortress of St. Dmitri, 317; of St. Elizabeth, 262. Forty Castles, town of, 29?. Fredrikshamn fortress, 390. French Cemetery, 288. Fuller's earth, 291. 279; 312; Gadiatch, 261. Gamla Finland, J91. Gaspra village, 299. Gatchina, 71. Gate of Iron, 305. Gaza, ancient, 324. Genoese, 297; colonies, in Crimea, 309, 310, colonists, 290; settlement, 270; settlement on the ' Dniestr, 217. Geology of Balaclava, 289. Georgia, 322. Gesleve, 278. Getara, ancient, 325. Ghirey Khans, 292. Ghireys, capitjil of, 309; dy- nasty of, 279, 280. Gbirski, 241. Gnesen, Archbishop of, 251. Gnilopiat river, 249. Gobi desert, 330. Gori, 321. Gorodets, 2jo. Gorodnichanka, rivulet, 360. Gorohovets, Stiit., 222. Grain market of Morshansk, 267. Granite-quarries, 390. Granitsa, ?6i. Grave of Howard, 276. Great Okhta, 74. Great wall of China, 330. Greco-Russian Church, 77. Greek city of Dia, 316; colony, 317 ; colonies, 315 ; colo- nist, 290 ; on the Azof, 272. Greig. 274. GrIazI Slat., 368. Grodno, 360. principality, 360. Gmiets, 363. Grushefka, 3x9. Guedemin, 67, 246, 261. Gukchey lake, 323. Gun-foundry, 162. making, 254, 255. Gunja, Persian, 325. Gura Calvaria, 362. Gustavus Adolphus, 9. Wasa, 7, 387. 111., 15, 372. Guzov, 352. TZIUM. Helsingfors, 386, 388. Ilemp, 256. Henriksdal, 389. Hermanov, 352. Hermitage : — Kertch Collec- tion, 105; library, no; mi- nerals, collection of, 119; museum of curiosities, 104 ; picture galleries, 85 ; Scy- thian collection, 109 ;theatrc, 98. Herodotus, 274. Hetmanate abolished, 261. Hill of Opuk, 314. of the Shirins, 308. Hogfors, 390. Holy Cross mounlains, 36 j. Horde of Kasimof, 227. Howard, 252, 276. Hungrian emigration, 271. Huns, 258. Hupta river, 266. KIEF. Hadji-Bey, fortress, 250, 251. Hango Head, 386. Hanseatic League, 68; towns, Reval, 168. Harbour of Sevastopol, 280, 281. lanovitse, 362. Iberia, ancient, 322. Idighiel, 295. lllby, 339- Ilia, Mount, 296. llmen lake, 176. Ilyinskaya, 261. Imatra, 391. Imeritia, 321. Imports of Odessa, 251. Ingul river, 273, 274. , valley of the, 262. Ingrla (ancient), 72. Inkermann, 25. , valley of, 291. Inundation, Neva, 73. , Dniepr, 262. Ipatieff monastery, 230. Irkutsk, 329. Iron foundries, first, 255 ; ore first discovered, 254 ; works, 227 : works of Tula, 255 ; works in Poland, 361. Ismailof, Voevod, 242. Isthmus of I'erekop, 277. Istra river, 178. Ivan I., 4. II., 4- Ill.,5, 6, 174. IV., the Terrible, 6, 7, 68, 69, 133, 174.187, 194; mur- der of the son of, 7 ; despotic Government of, 17; tomb, 196, v., 10. VI., murder of, 14, 156. Ivangorod, 362. Ivanova, 221. Izel, frescoes by, 301. Izium, fortress, 259. Jagellons, 333-?J5• Jasna Gura, 361. Jerusalem, New, 177. Jesuits, 336. Jews, Karaite, 121. Jitomir, 246, 365, 366. Joseph II., 275. Jurjur, cataract of, 312. K Kachofka, 277. KaflFa, 309- jii. Kahelie, 323. Kalatch, 318. Kalchik river, 317. Kalgan, 330. Kaliazin, 228. Kalka river, 270. Kalmins river, 317. Kalmuck Tartars, 15. Kama river, 328, 329. Kamenki river, 365. Kamishborun, 316. Kamennoi Ostroff', 72. Kamyshin, 232. Kansk, 329. Karaim Jews, 278. Cemetery, 293, , tribe of, 294. Kararazin, 7. Karany village, 289. Karavi islands, 314. Karasu-Bazar, 307, 308. river, 307. Kargopol, 161, 162. Kars, surrender of, 28. Kasimof, 227, 228. Katcha river, 292. Katunki, 230. Kazan. 6, 7, 231. Kazbek, mount, 322, 328. Kazimiezh, 362. Kazvin, 327. Kem, 160; river, 161. Kerij river, 327. Kertch, 314-316. Khalka river, 3. Khan-Sarai, 292. Khanates of Mongols, 270, 271. Khazars, 254, 259, 270, 275, 293. Kharkoff", 258-260. province, 259 ; river, 259. Kherson, 271, 274-276. Khersonesus, ancient, 27 5, 283- 289; history, 284-286; de- scription, 287-289. Khmelnllsky, 249. Kiakhta, 329, 330. Kibitka, 329, 381. Kief, 245-249; history, 245, 246; Pecherskoi monastery. 39G INDEX. KIEF. 247; population, 245 ; topo- graphy, 247 ; university, 249. Kief, province, 246. Kieltse, 363. Kikineis. 296. 297. Kimmerion, ancient, J09, 314. Kineshma, 2 jo. Kingan mountains, no. Kingdom of Poland, JJ7. Kishenef, 2J7. Kisllkoba village, 307. Kiz-Koulie, 31 3- Kllasma river, 221. Klin Stat., 177. Knights of Malta, 71. Kobryn, ^65. Kokenhusen Castle, 167. Koktebel, 313. Kolomna, 10, 264. Kolpino Stat., 177. Koltsof, poet, 269. Konia, post station, J07. Korchef, 228. Korennaya monastery, 258. KomilofF, 25, 281, 282. Koscinoko, 15, j62. Kostroma, 5, 2jo. Kotorosl river, 229. Kovel, 365. KovTOv Stat, 221. Kozelets, 245. Kozhets, 365, Kozlof, 267. Kozmodemlansk, 231. Krasnoe Selo, 152. Krasnoyarsk, J29. Krasynstaf, 366. Kremenchuk, 262. Kremlin, Moscow, 20, 184. Nijni-Novgorod, 2 2 J, — Novgorod, 175, — — Kazan, 231. Skof. 69. Vladimir, 221 — — Tula, 255. Krestofskl OstrofF, 72. Krinshl, 2C2. Krukova Stat, 177. Kryga river, 245. Kuilkovo, 259. Kul-Uba, tumulus of, Ji6. Kumyss, 232, 268. Kur river, 257, 321, 32 j. Kureis, 299. Kurov, 366. Kursk, 257, 258. Kutais, 321. Kutchuk-Koi, 297. Kutchuk Stamboul, 310. Kutno Stat., 351. Kutuzof's fountain, 306. Kymen, falls of, 390. Kyrkor, 293. Ladoga lake, 163, 391. Lambat, valleys of, J04. MAREND. Landvarovo Stat., 360. Landslips, 297. Langlewicz, General, 338. Language, Finnish, 372-378. Polish, 348. Russian, 32, 37. Lapata, mount, 302. Lapy Stat., 361. Laspi, 296. Lazaref, Admiral, 281. Leaders, Polish insurrection, 338. Leeches, trade in, 262. Legends, Polish, 333, 334. Lekh, 334- Lenkoran, 326. Lep, island, 161. Lesghian mountains, 320. Lcsno-Voronej, river, 267. Leucopol, 309- Lgof Uspenski monastery, 266. Llmen, 297. Linen manufactures, 222, 227, 230. Lipetsk, 268. Lishkovitse, 351. Listvenitchnaya, 329. Literature, 39, 44. Lithuania, 66, 67 ; union with Poland, 335. Little Okhta, 74. Russia, 10, Livadia, 300, Livonia, 9, 164, 165. Livonian Switzerland, 167. Lobnoe Mesto, 201. Lodeinoe Pole, 163. Lodz Stat., 362. Loestrigoues, port of, 290. Lomonossoff, 158. Lopani river, 259. Lopars, 161. Lovisa, 389. Lovitsh, 351. Luban Stat., 177. Lublin, 366. Luga, 71. Lybed river, 221, 264. M Macarius, Metropolitan, 69. Magaratch, 303. Makarief, 230. Malakhof Tower, 281. Malefka, 255. Malkin Stat., 361. Malo-Vyshera Stat., 177. Mamak village, 307. Man gup, rock of, 294. town, 294. Mangup-Kale, 302. Manufactories of Kalomna, 264. Maran, 321. Marend, 324. MOSCOW. Mare's milk, fermented, 232. Mariampol, site of, 293. Marina, wife of false Dmitri, 232, 242, 264, Marlnpol, 270, 271, 317, Mariinsk canal system, 229. Marsellus, 255. Massandra, 303. Matsieiovitse, 362. Matyra river, 268. Mauroii-Castron, 308. Meeting, Catherine II. and Joseph IL, 275. MegabI, Mount, 299, 302. Mennonites, 272, 276. Menschikoff', 25. Menzil, 327. Metrophanes, St., 269. JNIiondzizhets, 364. Mihailofski, 150. JNIills of Elots, 268. Mineral waters, 176, 232; of Lipetsk, 268 ; Piatlgorsk, 328. Mingrelian forest, 320. Minshev, 362. Miracle-working picture of Mariniwl, 317. Miraculous image, 258; of Ftdotief, 265 ; Bogoslofski, 266 ; voyage, 265. Miskhor, 299. Mission, American, at Uru- mlah, 324. Mittau, 167. Mizkettra, 321. i Mologa, 229. Monasteries : — Assumption, 29?; Bogoslofski, 266; Ipa- tieflr, 2 jo; Lgof- Uspenski, 266 ; New Jerusalem, 177 ; Padis Kloster, 172; St. George, 289; St. Serglus, 151; Solotchi, 266; Solo- vetsk, 158; Troltsa, 217 ; AValaam, 156 ; Yurj-efF, 176. Mongol khanates, 271. Mongols, 330. Monument of Russian Empire, 176; of Glycla, 287. Morguda, 299. Morshansk, 267. Moscow, 4, 8, 20, 179-217; arsenal, 200 ; bazaar, 203 ; Blagovestchenski Sabor, 197; IJolshoi Dvorets, 186 ; British Consulate, 217 ; Cathedral of Archangel Michael, 196; Cathedral of St. Basil, 200; cemetery, 214; Chertkoff, 209; Chu- dova Monastery, 199 ; church of the Redeemer In the Wood, 197; clubs, 216; Code of Alexis, 190; com- missioners, 182; court car- riages, 191 ; Dissenters, 215 ; Donskoi Monastery, 214 ; English plate, 191 ; English INDEX. 897 MOSKVA. Chapel, 216; Foundling Hospital, 204 ; freemasonry, 207 ; frozen provisions, 203, 204 ; galleries, 207-208 ; gates, 184 ; Granovitoya Palata, 188; great Riding School, 209 ; great boll, 179; Hermitage Gardens, 215; hotels, 179; Kitai Gorod, 200; Kremlin, 184 ; Library of the Patriarchs, 199 ; Lob- noe Mesto, 201 ; Mammoth, 208; Masonic MSS., 207 ; Mi- neralogical Collection, 207; "Mir," or Baptismal oil, 198 ; museums, 206-209 ; Nicholas Palace, 191 ; Novo- Devitchi Convent, 21 3 ; Novospask Monastery, 21 3 ; palace, 185 ; Petrofski Park, 215 ; picture galleries, 187 ; Sicture of the Iberian lother of God, 204 ; Plan of Kremlin, 181; of Mos- cow, 180; of Uspenski So- bor, 192 ; plate, 191 ; Polish constitution, 189; Polish throne, 190 ; post-office, 216 ; population, 179; prome- nades, 216; Romanoff House, 201 ; Rumiantsoff Museum, 206 ; Russian restaurants 182; Sacristy of the Patriarchs, 197 ; site of the house of the first English merchants, 203 ; SimonoflF Monastery, 212 ; Sokolniki, 215 ; Sparrow Hills, 211 ; Strastruy Monas- tery, 203; Suhareff Tower, 211 ; Temple of the Saviour, 211; Terem, 188; theatres, 216; throne of the Tsars, 190; tomb of Dimitrius, 196; of Ivan IV., 196; of Sophia Palaeologus, 200 \ topograpliy, 1 82 university. treasury, 210; Us- penski Sobor, 194 ; vehicles, 179 ; view of Moscow, 203, 212; Vosnesenski Convent, 199 ; Zolotaya Palata, 187 ; Zoological Gardens, 215. Moskva river, 264. MouraviefF, 28. Msta river, 177. Mud springs, 278. Murom, 226, 227, 265. Myshkin, 229. Nakhitchevan, 324. Names, ancient, of Bug and Dniestr, 274; Genoese of Kertch, 315 ; of Poltava, OLVIOPOL. ancient, 260; Scythian of KafiFa, 309; Sea of Azof, 312. Naphtha springs, 325. Napoleon, 19, 22, 240. Napoleon's Hill, 60, Narev, river, 361. Narva, 7, 11. Natalia, wife of Alexis, 10. Naval yard of Voronej, 269. Navigation of the Don, 317, 318. Neapolls, fortress of, 306. Nenke-Djan-Khanym, mauso- leum of, 293. Neva, 4, 72, 163. Nevka, river, 72. Neuri, 274. New Jerusalem, 177-179. New Stockholm, 237. Nicholas I., 22. Nicolaef, 273. Nicon, patriarch, 10,178. Nicopot 276. Niello ware, 255. NiJni-Novgorod, 9, 222-226; Minin and Pojarski, 222; ' Minin's tower, 222; fair, 225; Kremlin, 223. Nlkita, 303, 304, 360. Nlemen, river, 19, 66. Nieshava, 363. Nijine-Udinsk, 329. Nifeitin, poet, 269. Nobles, Russian, 16, 17. Nogay Tartars, 6. Normans, 2. Norr Vrekoskl, 289. Novaya Ladoga, 163. Novgorod, 2,6, 173-176. Novgorod Volynski, 365. Novki, Stat, 221. Novocherkask, 318, 319. Novogeorgievsk fortress, 362. Novoselitsa, 236. Novyd Kodaika, 275. Nymphajum, ancient, J14. Observatory, Dorpat, 167. Odessa, 250-253. Oesel, island, 164. Oglii-Oba, fortifications of, 309. Oka, river, 5, 6, 9, 222, 227, 256, 265 ; trade of, 257. Okbna, river, 351. Okhta, 74. Okulofka Stat, 177. Olga, St, 2. Olgerd, 250. Olbia, 274. Olonets, province, i6r, 162. Olviopol, 263. PETERSBURG. Omnibuses, service of, in Per- sia, 328. Omsk, 320. Onega, 161. • river, i6r. lake, 162. Oprichniks, 194, 195. Opuk, Tartar village, 314. Orcha, river, 244. Ordnance house of Peter the Great, 269, Orel, 256, 257 ; province, 245. Organ of Abo, 385. Orgeief, 237. Orianda, 300. de Witt, 299. ' Orlik river, 256. Orloff Davidoff, 232 ; diamond, 33. Oryshev, 352. Osembash, village, 302. Oskol, river, 259. Ostashkof, 177. Ostrolenka, 304. Ostra, river, 245. Ostrov, Stat, 351. Otx:hatof, province, 275. Otchakoff, province, 250. Otrepief, 254. Overland route to the Crimea, 273. Padis Kloster, 172. Palace of the Khans, 292. Palakion, port of, 290, Panea, 297. Panticapseum, ancient, 314. Parpatch, 314. Parthenike Cape, 284, 288. Parthenite village, 304, Pas-sage of iJiophantes, 291. Pavlofsk Stat, 221. Pavlovo, 226. Peace of Nystadt, 167. Pechenegians, 254, 270, 275. Pechersk fortress, 248. Pella, 156. Peninsula of Khersonesus, 283 , 284. Perevles, 266, Perekop, 277. Pereyaslavl, principality, 261. Pereyaslavl-Riazanski, 265. _j Perm, 328. Peterhof, 149, 150. Petersburg, St, 11, 71-146; Academy of Arts, 1 16 ; Aca- demy of Sciences, 113; Alex- ander Nevski monastery, 131 ; arsenals, 114; bankers, 144; British factory, 133, 130; Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul, 112; Church of Trinity, 132; club, 142; drives, 146; English phy- 398 INDEX. PETRIKAU. sician, 140 ; exchange, 144 ; fortress, 112; Foundling Hospital, 12?; history and topography, 7 2 ; Ilonnitage, 85; hospitals and medical advice, 140; hotels, 71 ; Isaac Cathedral, 75 ; Kazan Cathe- dral, 80; learned societies, 142; library, 120; Marble Palace, 112; markets, ij8; Michael Palace, 12?; mining school, 116; mint, 11 j; monuments, i?6; picture galleries, 100; plan of Her- mitage, 88 ; population, 75 ; [ post-office, 44; Preobrajen- ski church, 132; purchases, Ug; Roman Catholic church, I J2 ; Russia Company, i j j ; smoking, 72 ; Sraolni monas- tery, 130; sports, 145 ; sum- mary of buildings, 144; Summer Gardens, 14? ; Tau- rida palace, 1 24 ; telegraph ofiBce, 144; theatres, 141; university, Ii6; vthiclos, 74 ; Winter PaUice, 89. Petrikau, j6i. Petrofski Ostroff, 72. Petrozavodsk, 162. Petushki Stat., 221. Phasis, ancient, J20. Philip, Metropolltivn, 194, 195. Phoros, pass of, 296. Piaski, 366. Piatik, 231. Simeis, 297, 298. SimpheroiK)!, 306. Sinabdagh, 295. Siniuha, river, 263. Sirdiirs, northern, 237. Sivash, the, 279. Skiemievitse, Stat. Junct.,351, 361. Slave-market of the Crimea, 309. Slavo-Servla, 271. Slavonians, 274, 275 ; historj', Slutsk, 365. Smolensk, 9, 19, 240, 244. , province, 240. Soap of Jnkerman, 291 ; work."!, 231. Sobieski, birtliplace, 366. INDEX. 399 SOCIETY. Society, Russian, 6|. Soezevka, 363. Soldaya, Genoese city, J12, Solotchi, monastery, 266. Solovetfik, monastery, 158-160. Sosna, river, 268. Sosnovitse, 361. Source of the Don, 318. Spask, 266. Spirova, Stat, 177. Sport, 58. Stalactite caves of Tchatyr Dagh, 306. Stary Krim, 279, 308, 309. Staraya Russ, 176. Staroveri, 160. Star Chamber, 14. States General, 9, I2, 16. Statistics, 30. Stavropol, 2?2. Steamboat Companies, Volga, 230. Steamers on the Vistula, 362. Stearine works, 231. Stenka Razin, 9, 228, 231,232. Stephen Balhorij, 360. Steppes, 24?, 246, 271. Streletsa Bay, 284. Streltsi, 7, 10, 179, 188. Story of Balaclava, port, 290 ; the Khersonesus, 286-287 ; Cape Parthenike, 288. Struve, Otto, 167. Sudak, Bay of, 312; hamlet, 312. Sugakley, river, 263. Sugar manufactories in Poland, 351-J52. Suhednivu, 363. Sultanofka, 314. Sumi, 258. Surojskie More, 312. Surovskid goods, 312. Susanin, Ivan, 230. Suwalki, 364. Sviajsk, 231. Svir, river, 163, 177. Sweaborg, 386. Swentsiany, 68. Swiss colony in the Crimea, 3U. Tabana, Dereh, 294. Tabieez, 324. Taganrog, 270-273. Tallina, 168. 'J'allow melting, 267. Tambof, province, 267. Tammerl'ors, 368. falls, 389. Tanais, river, 270. Tanneries, 231. Tarantas, 329. Tartar kingdom, Kazan, 231. — — village, 230. Russia— ISQS. TROK. Tartar physiognomy, 297. Tascher, Joachim, 300. Tauri, altars of, 302. , divinity of, 288. .fortifications of, 304, 305. , work of, 291. Tauric Chain, 289, 296, 302, 313. Taurida, 279. Tautshan Bazaar, Tartar village, 306. Tavastehus, 388. Tchaplinka, 277. Tchatyr Dagh, 277, 289, 306. Tchekh, 334. Tchernaya, river, 25, 291. — sources of, 295. Tchernaya Dolina, 277. Tchufut Kal^, 293. Tea trade, 224. Telega, 329. Tememik, rivulet, 318. Tepe Kermen, 293. Terek, river, 328. Terespol, 364. Teterev, river, 365. Teutonic Knight^j, 164, 165, 169, 360. Theodotia, 309-311. Tiflis, 322. Tigris, 237. Tiger, flag of, 251. Tikhvin, canal system, 229. Timber trade, 236, 237. Tiraspol, 237. Tiumen, 329. Todleben, 23, 25. Toktaniyeh, 253, 264. Tomb of Aldurakhman, 292. Diliarah Bikeg, 293. Tomsk, 329. Torsley, 389. Trade of Berdiansk, 317; of the Caspian, 233 ; of Elets, 268 ; of Elizavetgrad, 262 ; of Karasu-Bazar, 308; of Kremenchuk, 262; Kozlof, 267 ; of Morshansk, 267 ; of Nicolaef, 274 ; of Orel, 256, 257 ; Poltova, 26r, 262 ; of Riajsk, 266 ; with Smolensk, 241 ; of Taganrog, 272 ; of Tula, 255 ; of Voronej, 269. Traffic on the Caspian Sea, 325. Travelling, 63. Treaty of Abo, 390; of An- drussy, 243, 246 ; of Bel- grade, 271; of Jassy, 250; of Kinardlji, 250; Kuchuk- Kamardjl, 271, 280, 315; of Nystadt, 390 ; of Vrazma, 246 ; of Poltava, 261. Tribunals, ancient, of Poland, place of meeting, 361 ; Polish, 366. Triumphal arches, 146, 152. Troglodytes, 289, 29?. Trok, principality, 360. VIAZNIKI. Troitsa Monastery, 10, i8, 217, 220. TrubeJ, river, 264. Trubinski House, 70. Tsarsko^ Selo, 152, 154. Tsars of Kasimof, 227. Tsaritsyn, 232. Tsickhotsiuck, 363. Tsna, river, 177, 267. Tszenstokhova Stat, 361. Tiiak Valley, 312. Tula, 254, 256, Tumuli of the Bosphorus, 314; of Elizavetgrad, 263; of Kharkoff, 258; of Kberson, 274; of Konia, 307; of Sunpheropol, 306. Tunas, river, 307. Tursova, rivulet^ 318. Tushl, 3. Tushin, thief of. 254, 264. Tuskor, river, 259. Tvertsa, river, 177. Twer, 177. province, 177. Tyskewicz, Voevod of Kief; 249. TJglltch, 228, 229. Ubi Uzen, 312. Ukholova, villages of, 266. Ukraine, 246, 247, 260, 261. Ulojenie, 190, Unja, river, 230. Union of Lubin, 246, Uniats, 67, 245, 247. Upa, river, 254. Universities ; Dorpat, 167 ; Helsingfors, 308 ; Kazan, 231 ; Kharkoff, 260 ; Kief, 249; Moscow, 210; St Pe- tersburg, n6; Odessa, 252. Ural mountains, 329. Urga, 330. Urumiah, 324. Urzuf, Valley of, 30J. Bay, 304. Ushun, 277. Ussimdji, mountains, 295. Valdai, 177; hills, 177. Valkl, 259. Valley of the Devil, 289. Vallin-Koski, falls, 391. Vasil, 231. Vassili Ostroff, 72. Veche, 6, 9, 16,68, 173. bell, 69, 174. Smolensk, 241. Veliki river, 68. Venetians in the Crimea, 312. Verkhnd-Udinsk, 329. Viasma, 21. Viazniki Stat, 222. U 400 INDEX. VIEPSH, Viepsh, river, 362. Vilia, river, 66, 67. Villa of Prince Woronzoff, 298. Vines, collection of, Crimea, 303 ; Vineyards of Alushta, 305; of Kahetie, 32 j. Vinnitsa, 249, 250. Vistula, river, 351, 363. Vladlkavkas, 328. Vladi-Kavkas, pass of, 322. Vladimir, town of, 3, 4, 221 ; province, 222 ; Grand Duke, 284-285. Vlotslavek Stat., 351, 363. Volga, river, 140, 178, 182. Volbynia, province, 237, 246. Volkhof, river, 173, 176, 177. Volkhova Stat., 177. Volochisk, 237. Voronej, 268. Voronej, river, 269. Vorskla, river, 258, 261. Vosnesenie, 162. Voskresenski monastery, 177. Voyage of Bishop of Murom, 265. Voydge down the Volga, 233. Vsevolod Gabriel, 1 rince of Novgorod, 70. Vuox, river, 391. Vybutina, 70. Vyra, river, 245. Vyshoprod, 363. Vysounski, iron works, 227. Vysbni-Volochok, 177. Vytegra, 162. river, 162. w Walaam Monastery, 156. Warsaw, 15, 19; Arsenal, old, i55 > asylum, deaf, dumb, and blind, 357 ; asylum, lunatic, 354; bazaar, 356; Bank of Poland, 3$$ ; Belve- dere Palace, 358 ; benevo- lent society, house of, 356; Bielany, 353 ; botanical gar- dens, 358; Briihl palace, 356; Camaldolite ch. and convent, 35 J ; caskada, 35?; Castl" Falenti, 355 ; Castle of Villanov, 358; cathedral, 353 ; church of Pauline and WARSAW. Dominican convents, 35 ? ; ch. of our I^dy, 353 ; ch. of the Franciscans, 353 ; ch. of the Basilians, 354; ch. of the Capucins, 354; ch. and convent of Carmelites, 355; ch. of the convent of Bemardines, 356 ; ch. of the convent of the Visitandines, 356; ch. of the Holy Cross, 357; citadel, 353; clubs, 352; Credit Foncier, the, 355 ; crosses, the two, 357 ; evangelical chapel, 355 ; evangelical cemetery, 355 ; Field of Mars, 354; Gro- khov, 359 ; hospital of tbe Infant Jesus, 355 ; hospital, Israelite, 354 ; hospital, mili- tary, 358; hotels, 352; Hotel de I'Kurope, 356; Hotel de Ville, 354 ; House of Count Andrew Zamoiski, 357 ; IronGate, 356; Iron-works, 354 ; Jerusiilem carrier. 355; Krasinski Palace, 354 ; Lu- zicnki, 358 ; Mariemont, 35 ?; Market, horse and cattle, 359 ; market - place, 356 ; merchants' club, 355; mint, 354; monument to Coper- nicus, 357 ; Morysln and Natolin villas, 359; Mos- tovski Palace, 355 ; Obelisk, 356 ; observatory, 358 ; Ohm Gardens, 355 ; Ordynatckie, 359 ; palace of the Arch- bishop of Warsaw, 354; palace of the Pac family, 354 ; palace of the I'rince Primate, 354; palace of Count Zamoiski, 355 ; palace of the Namiestnik, 356; palace of the l^rince Oginski, 356; palace of Count Po- tocki, 356 ; palace of Count Uruski, 357; palace of the Counts Krasinski, 357 ; Pod- blakhon palace, 353 ; popu- lation, 352 ; Povonski ceme- tery, 354 ; post-office, 356 ; railway htatioii, Warsaw- Vienna. 355 ; Kasliyn, 355 ; reformed church, 354 ; Rus- Bian cemetery, 355 ; Russian cathedral, 354 ? Sapieha bar- racks, 353; Saska Kempa, 359 ; Saxony gardens, 355 ; THE END. ZOMBKOWITSE. (f Saxony Square, 356 ; Senate* house, 354 ; Sierakovski bar- . raclcs, 353; Solec, 359; square of royal castle, 352 ; statue of the Holy Virgin, 354 ; statue of St. John Nepomuck, 357 ; statue of the Virgin, 356; Summer camp of Russian troops, 354; Tarnovsky palace, 356 ; tent of Kara Mustapha, 359; terminus of St. Petersburgli railway, 352 ; topography, 352 ; vehicles, 352 ; Vola, parish church, 355 ; Zamek, 352. Warta river, 361. Watershed of Immeritia and Georgia, 321. Wheat' trade of Odessa, 251 ; of Olviopol, 263J of Orel, 256. White Russia, 68, 238,239. Wielopolski, Marquis, 337. Wines of the Crimea, 298, 299, 301, 303. Winn is, 255. Witebsk province, 68. Wool trade, 262. Wyborg, 390. Yallas, mountain, 302. Yalta, 301. — — , valley of, 302. Yaroslaf, Grand Duke. 247. Yenisei, province, 329; river, 329. Yoprakl, mount, 302. Yurief-l'ovoljski, 230. YuryefiF, monastery, 176. Zakrotshim, 363. Zamosts, 366. Zaporogians, 271, 272. Zavikhost, 362. Zegzhe, 364. Zinc-works in Poland, 361. Zolkief, 366. Zombkowitse, 361. LONnON : I'RISTED BY W. CI.OWKS AND SONS, STAWFOBD filTBKET, AND CHABINQ CBOSS. MITRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1871. iThe best Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. Mcertiwmnts mmt be received by the 2nth April, and are inserted at the rate of £5 for a page and 50s. lor halt' a page. INDEX TO THE ADVERTISEMENTS. Page Allxandria ana Caibo— llobert- suii, B<)oksellei-s 38 Antwerp— Hotel St. Antoiue . . 2f> U6te\ du Grand lAlx)urenr . . r>2 Daden-Badkn— Victoria Hotel . 37 Hotel and Pension Uulle Vue . 32 15abcku)Sa — Gnmd H«')tei des C^uatre Nations 46 BK1.LAG10 — Hotel Villa Giula . . 47 Hotel de Florence 37 }l6lf\ Geuazzini 37 Bkblin— Hotel d'Angleterre . . 39 liKKNE — Heller's Musical Boxes . 80 liEX — Grand Hotel dcs Salines . 55 Itolx>GSA— Grand Hotel d'lUlie . 30 H6tel lirun 36 Bonk— G8er'3 Hotel Bellevue . . Victoria Hotel Hotel de I'Ange d'Or . . . 48 45 44 28 40 40 Floeknok — Aglietti 4 Sons, Artit>ts 9 Bianchini's Mosaic .... 5 Brizzi's Mu-sIcaI Establishment . 24 Costa and (Jouti, Artists ... 10 Montelatici's Mlo ... 31 Hdtel do la Iteajnuaissance . 34 HOiel des Bergues 20 Golay and Co.'s Watches and Jewelry 56 Poiizet, Optician 31 Heynaud x Glatou, Watches, Ac. 28 Troll's Musical Boxes ... 44 Page Genoa— Hotel des Quatre Nations 49 Mossa, Jeweller 7 Hanover— TTnlon Hotel ... 41 Heidelbebg — Hotel de I'Europe . 43 HoMBUKG — Hotel des (juiitre SdLsons 4ij Innsbruck — Hotel Golden Sun . 89 In lEicLvCH i:N— Hotel de Btdle Vue 47 Hotel Jungl'rau 47 Lacsanne — Hatel Beau lUvage . 42 Hotel Giblwn 34 H<»tel Eiche-Mont 34 Lucerne — Hotel d'Angleterie. . *'3 Hotel Beau liivage .... 42 HtJtel Schweizerhof .... 39 .Swan Hotel 39 LucHON — Grand Hotel IVmne- Mai^on 36 Matence — Hotel d'Angleterre . 18 Milan — Hotel Cavour .... 47 Moscow — Hotel Billo .... 64 Munich — Wimmer's Gallery of Fine Arts 6 Naples — Civalleri, Agent ... 60 Nassau — Bubbles from the Brunnen 42 Neufchatel— Hotel du Mout Blanc 33 Nice — Baker, Cliemist .... 68 Nuremberg — H<3tei de Bavitsre . 43 Bed Horse Hotel 45 St. Pktersbubg — Hotel d'Angle- terre 62 Pisa — Andreoni, Sculptor ... 5 Prague — Uofniaun's Glass Manu- factory 9 Rome— Baker, Chemist . . . .68 Shea, House Agent .... 14 EoTTEBDAM — Kramers, Bookseller 63 SaarbrL'ck — Hotel Zimmermann 40 SCHAFFILAUSKN — Hotel iichweizer- hof 46 Stockholm — Fritze. Bookseller . 10 Stresa — HOtel des lies borromt^ 37 Thun — Sterchi, Sculptor in Wood 6 Venice — Grand Hotel Victoria . 63 Ponti, Optician 10 Vevay — Hotel Monnet .... 48 Grand HOtel de Vevey ... 21 H6tel d'Angleterre .... 33 Hotel du Lac 33 Vienna — Lobmeyr's Glass Manu- factory 9 H6tel Archduke Charles . . . 49 Hdtel Oesterreichisclier Hof . 31 Empress Elisabeth Hotel . . 32 Villeneuve — H6tel Byron . . 44 Wiesbaden— Four Seasons Hotel 42 WiLUBAU — Hotel Klumpp ... 41 Page Z DUG— Stag Hotel 46 ZfJBiOH— Hotel de lEjHie au Lac . IS LONDON. Al>erdeen Granite Monuments . 18 Agent.s-_M'Criicken .... 2-4 Olivier and Co. . . . 16,17 CarrandCo 12, l.S Anglo- Italian Bank 18 Books and Maps 57 Gary's Telesc»i« 19 Chubb's Locks and Safes ... 15 Church of England Appeal . . 6i Continental Daily Parcels Express 35 Couriers and Servants .... 22 Couriers (Swiss and United) . . 29 Education— Yf)ung Gentlemen . Ellis's Aeratetl Watei-s .... Foreign Books Gillott's Pens Heal's Furniture and Bedsteads . Lee and Carter's Guide Depot . . Mudie's Library National Provincial Bank . . . Norwegian Laii-uage, Sargent's Introduction to 47 28 S2 56 59 64 2r, 51 63 Parr's Life Pills 4g I Passport Agency-Adams . . ! 20 Passi»ort Agency— Dorrell ... 65 Pas.six)rt Agency— Letts . . . tJ.s Passjxirt Agency — Stanford . . 1! I I Photographic Apparatus for Tour- ists 41 j Portmanteaus — Allen's .... 2t! I Railway— South-Westem ... 27 Tennant — Geologist 7 Thresher's Essentials for Travel- ling 60 Travel Talk co I ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH— ' Koyal Hotel ]9 Bristol — ' Royal Hotel 87 Exeter — ' Jtoyal Clarence Hotel .... 47 I Lynton — Valley of Rocks Hotel ... 48 Penzance — Mount's Bay House and Hotel . 52 TOBQUAY— Field, Hoase and Estate Agei»t . 24 IRELAND. \ Portbt;8h — I Antrim Arms Hotel .... 27 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, London, May 1, 1871. MESSllS. J. & R. IVrCRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET, E.G., AGENTS, BY APPOINTMEXT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, Agents tor Bouviei-'s Heiiciiatel Cliaiiipagiie, AKD AGENTS GENERALLY FOB THE RECEPTtON AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OY ART, BAGGAGE, &C., T%Om AND TO ALL PAHTS OF THE IXTORLO, Avail themselves of this opportunity to returfi their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry tor the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to he honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. \ j. and R. M<>C. have the advantage of DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Ownei-s' absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. M^C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamei-s or otherwise to Southampton and Livei-pool also attended to ; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressai to 38, Qdeen Street, as above. MESSRS. J. AND R. IVtcCRACKEN ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GeGENUBER DEM JULICHS PtATZ, COLOGNE, ^OB HIS CELEBRATED EAU DB COLOGNE, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. AND R, MCCRACKEN'S PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. ALEXANDRIA ^^leesrs. D. Robkijt&ok k Co. ALICANTE Mr. P. R. Dahla.sdeb. ANCONA Messrs. Moore, Morellet, & Co. ANTW^ERP Messrs. F. Mack & Co. ATHENS, P1R.*:US R A nw Tj A nv\r i Messrs. Stuffes fe Bikder. Mr. F. Pklikan's Successor, C. Rasch i5AUi!.i\.UAiJiJ..M ... I Messrs. Mellekio Fbehes. 3Ir. H. Ulluicii. BAD EMS Mr. H. W. Thiel. BAGXERES DE BI-, GORRE (Hauteg \ Mr. Leox Geeuzet, Marble Works. Pyreneeu) i BASLF i Messrs. Jean Pkeiswek4 & Fils. ( Mr. J, Frey. ^\^v^i^ rv i Messrs. Schicklee Brothers. ^"^^^^^•^ \ Mr. Lion M. Cohx, Comm"^". Expediteur. BKRNE Messrs. A. Bauer i; Co. HKYROUT MM. Henet Heald & Co. BOLOGNA Messrs. Renoli, Buggio, & Co. Sig. L. M kni. ( Mr. GRF.yrAiLLY Fils Aine. BORDEAUX "{Mr. LioN Gekuzkt, 44, Alldes de Touniy. [ Messrs. Albuecht & Fils, 19, Rue Foy. BOOTX)GNE 8. M. . . . Messrs. Mory & Co. Messrs. L. J. VooCE & C,> BRINDISI Italo-Oriental Ct>., A. Coen, Manager. CALAIS Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. CALCUTTA Messrs. Gielanders, Aubcthkot, & Co. CANNES Mr. Taylor. CARUSBAD Mr. Thomas Wolf. Glass Manufacturer. CARRARA Sig. F. Bienaime, Sculptor. CATANIA Mr. Matthey. CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lonve Brothees, British Consulate. r.nr rkn M V i ^»Ir. J. M. Farika, gegenUber dem Julichs Platz. COLOGxNh I Messrs. G«>e. TiLMES & Co. CONSTANCE 31 r. Fred. Hoz. CONSTANTINOPLE Mr. Alfrep C. Laughtok. Messrs. C. S. Hakson k Co. COPENHAGEN Messrs. 11. J. Bing & Son. CORFU ; . Mr. J. W. Taylor. {Messrs. H. W. Bassfnge & Co. Mr, E. Arnold, PrinUeller. The Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Messrs. Seegee & Maesee. Madame Helena Wolfsohn, Schussergasse, No. 5. Mr. Moritz Meyeb, Moritz Strasse. ( Messrs. French & Go. Sig. Luigi Ramacct. Messrs. Emm'c. FENzr j & Co. Messrs. Maquat, Hooker, & Co. Mr. E. Goodban. FLORENCE / Messrs. NEbTi, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. T. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. ) Messrs. P. Bazzanti & Fio.. Sculptors, Luiigo I'Aruo. iiej-.-rs. \ EvRE& Mattkini. Sig. Tito Gag liard!. / Mr. P. A. Ta(;(;hi'8 Sucx:essor, Glass Manufacturer. Zeil D, 44. FRANKFORT o. M. \ Messrs. Bing, Juu., & Co. Mr. F. Buhler. ZeU D, 17. I Messrs. Sachs and HocimEiMEE, Wine Merchants. FRANZENSBAD. . . . Mr. C J. Hokmann. GENEVA MM. Levrier k PiaisstER. ^ .,„ _ . C Messrs. Granet, Beowts, .Sc Co. GENOA I Messrs. G. Vignolo & Figi. Mr. A. MossA, Croce dl Malte. C Messrs. De feuYSEE Feebes, Dealers in Antiquities, Marche au GHENT ^ Beurre. No.2l. GIBRALTAR Messrs. Aeohbold, Johnston, & Power. Messrs. Turnke & Co. HAMBURG Messrs. J. P. Jensen & Co. Messrs. Sohormer & TpipJiM^N, HAVRE Mossrg. liOUEDiN, Pfere, FU^Jewe, ftp4G. Capj^on, HEIDPXREIU} Mr. Ph. ZiviMERMAJll^ jtjiONFLEUR , . Jlr. J. WAG»et^ 99 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, M^^CRACKEN'S LIST OF CORKESPONDENTS-conf.nued. INTERLACKEN .... Mr, J. Grossmakn. Mr. A. Tkemp Mr. C. H. Scmuh. JERUSA LEM Messrs. K. F. Spittlku k Co. Mr. M. Bkkciieim. J r. LAUSANNE Mr. Dubois Renou & Fils. 1 T^^^xr^nxT i Messrs. Alex. Macbkan & Co. Messrs. Maquat, Hookf.k, i (o. LEL.hORN 5 j^r ^i KisTORi. LEI PZIG Mr. J. E. OKHLSciiLACEK's Successor. 3JSB0N Mr. E. Bourgard. LUCKRN E Messrs. F. X>'urb & Fils. MADRAS Messrs. BiNNT & Co. MALAGA Mr. Gkokqe Hodgson. Mr. J. A. Mark. ,, c. , r Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. J08»>. Daumamn & Sons, 46. Strada MALTA \ Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortitnato Tksta, 92, Strada ^»* i Lucia. MANNHEIM Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. MARl KN BA D Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. MARSEILLES Messrs. Claude Clero & Co. MAYENCE Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. MEN rON E Mr. Palmaro, Mr. Jean Okekgo Fils. MESSINA Messrs. Cailler, Walkkr, & Co. Ti,,, . ^ C Mr. G. B. Buffet. Piazza dl S. Sepolcro, No. 1 ^^^^^ \ Messrs. Fratklli Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich & Co. TLTrrvTr-tr 5 Messrs. Wimmer & Co.. Priiitsellers, Brieniier Strasse. 3. Jfessrs. AlUNlCtt -^ Bleichf.r & Andreis. Messrs. Squindo & Scheukk. „.^,, „_ (Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W.J. Turnkk & Co. Mr. G. JN AFL.h^ I Scala, Wine Merchant, 42. Via Cuncezione di Toledo. NEW YORK' Messrs. Austin, Baldwin, & Co. NEUCH A TEL ^ Messrs Bouvier Frebks, Wine Merchants. Messrs. Humbert & Co. (Suisse) ..j . „ ,, . „ ( Messrs. A. Laoroix & Co.. British Consulat*. Messrs. M. & N. ^^^•^ \ Giordan. Mr. II. Ullrich. M.M. Mignon FKEREs,9,RueParadis. Texmi-^vrnL'Tjn 5 Mr. John Conrad Cnopk. Banker and ForwardiiiR Agent. XM UKKMBli.tCt» j ^jj. ^ pioKERT, Dealer in Antiquities. Mr. Max Pickeet. OSTEND Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. Mack and Co. PALERMO Messrs. Ingham. Whittaker. & Co. PARIS Mr. L. Chenue. Packer, Rue Croix Petlta Champs, No. 24. PAU Mr. J. MnsGRAVE Clay. Mr. Bergerot. ^ Messrs. HuGUET & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. *^*^^ \Mr. G. Andreoni, ditto ditto. t>n Knjyv S ^r- "V^'- Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stem. PUAt^Uh >Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. gUEBEC Messrs. Forsyth & Pemberton. j' Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. Alf.x. Macbean & Co. Messrs. I Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Mawttay, Hooker, & Co. Messrf^. KOM h < Si»ADA, Flamini, Sc Ct). Messrs. Fur.sk Bros, k Co. Mr. Luig i ( Branchini. at the English College. Mr. J, P. Shea. ROTTERDAM Messrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. C Hemmann & Co. SANRKMO MM. Asquasciati Fbere.'^. .SCHAFFHAUSEN .. Mr. Fred Hoz. „ , » „ SEVILLE Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. M.J. A. Batm.t. SM YRN A Messrs. Hanson & Co. ST. PETEllSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, k Co. Mr. C. Kruger. THOUNE Mr. J. Kehuli-Steuchi. Mr. N. Buzberger. TRIE.STE Messrs. Flli. Chi esa. TURIN Messrs. J. A. I^chaise & Ferrkro. Rue de V Arsenal, No. 4. /Mr. L. BovARDi. Ponte Alle Ballotte. VENICE \ Messrs. Frkres Schielin. Mr. Antonio Zen. Mr. C. Ponti. ( Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. VEVEY Mr. Jiles G ktaz Fil.s. triuxrxr a S ^r. H. ULLRICH, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. VlhNNA "^Messrs. J. &L Lobmetbr, Glass Manufacturers. 940, Kanithner VOLTERRA Sig. Otto. Sola iNi. [Strasse. WALDSHUTT Mr. Fred. Hoz, ZURICH Mr. HoNi.r.GEi:.FUcLi. 1871. MUKRAV'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 FLORENCE. TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTUllER OF TABLES AKD LADIES' ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG' AKNO NUOVO, 1, AND BORG' OGNISSANTI, 2, TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where ■*- may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every descri|)tion of Rare and Precious Stones, Ordei's for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. T. BiANCHiNi's Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, EC, London. BRIENZ- INTERLACKEN. J. GROSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design^ AT ZirT£RX.il.CaLEXr. HIS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCkacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London.- PISA. -•c^ GIUSEPPE ANDREONI, Sculptor in Alabaster and Marble and Objects of Fine Art, NO. 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, WHERE A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &c., CAN BE SEEN. Correspondents in England, Messrs. .T. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. ^ 9 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, T H U N. » " ■'♦ JEAN KEHRLI-STERCHI, AND MANdTACTUBER OF SWISS MODELS AND OEMMENTS, For 26 years at tlie Woodwork Establishment at the Giesshach Falls, eldest son of the founder of said establishment, INVITES the attention of Enc;li?h tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevue Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always be seen. , Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'CUACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Caimon Street, London. MUNICH. WIMMER & CO., GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. 3, BRIENNER STREET, Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Arts, containing an P2xtensive Collection of MODERN PAINTINGS by the best Munich Artists, PAIWTllVCSS ON FORCE f.AIIV ANO ON tJI.A!««iS?. also a large Assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, including the complete Collections of the various PnMio Galleries. •V - . -\^_-».'*y*, ' Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Crackkx, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, Con-espondents in the United States, Messrs. KelLER & LiNGG, 97, I^eade Street, Jsew York. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. O E IV O A. HORACE AUGUSTE MOSSA, criE^w^EXjXjEiE/, Mil) MANUFACTURER OF GOLD AND SILVER FILAGREE WORK, Which obtained PRIZE MEDAL at the Universal Exhibition of London in 1851. His Establisluucuts arc situated in the Grande Alborgo dltalia and Albergo Croce di Malta, in Via del Campo, near the Porta di Vacca ; he also keeps a Depository in the Grapde Albergo di Genova. He undertakes the execution of all Commissions with exactitude, and guarantees his Works to be of pure Gold and Silver, and Silver doublv <^ilt. Travellers are invited to visit his Establishments without obligation to luirchase. Correspondents in Enaland -Messrs. J. & R. MeCHACK^Ii", 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. rTtENNANT, geologist, 149, STRAND, LONDON, W 0. gives practical Instruction in Miiieralopy and Geology. He can also supply Elementary Collections of Minerals. Rocks, ami Fossils, on the following terms:— 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays £2 2 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays ^ ^ 2 300 Specimens, larger, in Cinbinot, with eight drawers . . . . 10 16 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with twelve drawers . . . . 21 More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to lUO Gumeas each, -with every re.misite to assist those commeneiiig the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts ot the world. ^ . ^ • \ collection for Five Guineas wliich will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Ansted. Buckland, Jukes, Lyell, Murchlson. Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in a cabinet, with five trays, comprising the following, viz.:— _ ^ ^^ , . ., MiNEKALs whicli are either the components of Rock?, or occasionally imbedded m them :— Quartz Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus. Felspar, Mica Talc Tourmaline. Zircon, lopaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen Jet, &c. Native Metals or METALLiFEiiotrs Minerals: these are found m masses, m beds, or in veins and occasionally in the bods of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in the Oibinet :— Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina.&'c. Rock-*-— Granite,Gneiss.Mioa.slate,PorphyTy,Serpectine.Sandstones,Limestones,Lavas.xc. P VI iEOZoic Fossils, from the Llandeilo.VVenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and CarboniferousRocks, sixoxuvRV Fossils, from the Triivs, Li;vs, Oolite, Wealden. and Crctace(jus Groups. Tkktiary Fossil^, from theWoolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay.Crag, &c. In the more expensive Collections eomc of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINIIRALOGY AND GEOLOGY, adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNAN T, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, STRAND W C and Prfvate instrcctiox to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed Proprietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens. Dlagi-ams, AU aie'*r'ecent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology. and Chemistry; also Geolo'^ical Maps, Models, Diagrams. Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid BotUes, &c., can be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science. MUURAY'S IIANDDOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. Mav, JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENiJBER DEM JULICII'S PLATZ (Opposite the JUlich's Place), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THK PRINCE OF WALES ; TO H. M. THE KINO OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OK FPvAXCE; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., OF THK ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which obtained the only I'rize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 'PHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most jL part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — The favourable reputation whiclj my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which Is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be jwirti- cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Julich's I'latz (that is, opposite the Julich's Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who ofler their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrarj', they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remimeration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one and that I delivered it to them for the purjwse of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get In Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the JUlich's Place, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Julich's Platz. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in I^ndon, 1«51 and I8G2, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; that 1 obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1865; and received the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 18G7, and iu Oporto 1865. Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. •»* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street^ Cannon Street^ E.C, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. PRAGUE. WILLIAM HOFMANN, BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, HOTEL BLUE STAR, Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Sti-eet, E.C. Q cods forwarded direct to England^ America, 4'C' FLORENCE. JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS, ARTISTS, GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies trom the most celebrated Mastere. Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with despatch to all parts of the world. Correspondents iu England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London. VI E N NA. The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian While and Coloured Crystal Glass. J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTURERS, No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, nnd other Services ; Vases, Candelabras,Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the Prize Medal at the International Exiiibitions of 1862 and 1867. The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English language is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. !M*Cracken, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London, will transmit all orders with the o^reatest care and attention. 10 MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, A E T I S T S, No. 8, VIA ROMANA, Opposite the Museum of Natural History (^Specola'), and near the Pitti Gallery. Messrs. Costa and Conti ke<^p the largest collection in Florence of original Ancient and Modem Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. N.B. — English spoken. Con-espondenls in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. STOCKHOLM. C. E. FRIT^E, BOOKSELLEB, tJlTSTAVE AMOIiFSi TOUO (Square), (NEXT HOUSE TO THE RYDBElir, HOTEL). ' Scandinavian, English, French, and German Books. TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and ISTorwegian Peasant Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. "BRADSHAW'S RAILWAY GUIDE" and "HENDSCHEL'S TELEGRAPH." C. E. FEITZE, Eookseller, (justaf Adolfs Torg, Stockholm. VENICE. CARLO rONTI, OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, Who gained the Prize IMedal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose House" is acknowledged to be the fii-st of the kind in the City, is the Inventor of the Optical Instrument known under the name MEGALETHOSCOFE, (first called Alethoscope), the most i)erfc':t instrument for magnitying photographs and showing them with the effects of night and day. His ISOPEEISCOPIC SPECTACLES gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all others, as well as being more moderate in price. His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marco, Ko.o2, near the Cafe Florian ; and his Optical Establishment at Riva del Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CkaCKEN, 38, Queen Street, annon Street, E.C. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. U FRANKFORT. P. A. TACCHrS SUCCESSOR, XKilj, ]Vo. 4L4L, WAlEJEieiUSlSo p. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGKAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WRITE AND COLOURED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabraa, Articles for the Tabic and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. Tacchi's SuccESsoii has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, OPPOSITE THE THEATRE, Where wiH always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor. His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Purchases made of him, is Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge Eow, Cannon Street, London, E.C. 12 MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEUTISEH. Alav, CHARLES CAER & CO., (Mr. CAiui, lite of the Firm nf orrv//:n 4- cahj;), 14, BISHOPSGATE STEEET WITHIN, LONDON, E.G., COMMISSION MERCHANTS, General Agents for the Reception and Shipment of Goods from and to all Parts of the World, AND WINE MERCHAISTS. pIlAKLES CAiai & CO. have the lionoiir to iiifonn ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, tliat they iC( oive and pass through the Custom House in London, l.ivor]ii)ol, Southampton, &c., WOBKS of Art, BAGGAGE, ard PEOPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION ; which are attended to on Arrival under their lVrson:»l Stipcrinteiidence, with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, AXD AT very Moderate Charges, regulated accorduig to the value of tiie Package?, and the cue and altenticn required. Keys of all locked PttckHo;e3 should be sent to C. C. «!i: Co., as evcivthiiic: must be examined on arrival, althoufih not liable to dutv, CHARLES CAKR & CO. also undertake tiic FOKWAEDING OF PACKAGES OF EVEEY KIND, which can be sent to the care of tiieir Correspondents, to remain, if required, until applied for by the owners ; also THE EXECUTION of OEDEKS for the PUECHASE of GOODS, of all kinds, which fiom their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy en the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will tlnd this a convenient means of ordering anything they may require iVom London, INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. Packages Warkhoused at Modkkate Rates of Rent. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 €IIA$9. €ARR Sc CO. S principal C orr«-spondcat» are — At Aix-la-ChapcUe „ Antioerp . „ BasU . „ Berlin „ Bologna . „ Bordeaux . „ Boulogne . „ Brussels . „ Calais . . „ Cologne „ Dresden „ FUirencc . „ FrankforL „ O'eneca „ Genoa . „ Hamburg . „ Ilacrt . ,. Jnterlacheii „ Leipzig . „ lAghorn . „ Malta . „ Marsetlirs . „ Milan . „ Munich „ Naples „ Nice . . „ Ostend „ Paris . Pau . . Prague Borne . Rotterdam Turin . Venice . . Vienna Any other houses Travellers are reque Messrs. A. SOUHKUK and CO. Metsrs. VLEU(JEI^ and CO. Mr. J, WILD, 12, Steincnthorstrasse. Mr. J. A. FISCHEK. Agent to the Conrt. Messrs. ANTON 10 MAZZK i'Tl and CO. Messrs. ALBRECHT and FILS. Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., «1, Rue Napoleon. Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques, Messrs. L. J. VOG CJ E and CO. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Mr. R. WEIGANI); Mes.sr6. SCHEFFLEU, SIEG, & CO. Messrs. IIASKARD and SON. Mr. MARTIN BICCKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Messrs. JOEIMAY and CO. ; Mr. I'm:. STRASSE. Mr. E. MOLO; Mr. J. V. BUG H LI. Messrs. HOFMEiS I'ER. SCHEFFLER, and SIEG. Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. Mossr.<. RlTSCHARl) and BQRKl. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. Messrs. J. IHOMSON HENDERSON and CO. Messrs. ROSE and CO Messrs. GHIAUD FHERES. Messrs. G. HONO and CO.. s, Via A<;nello. Messrs. GUTLli BEN and VVEIDERT. Messrs. CERULLI and CO. ; Mr. G. CiVALLERF. Messrs. M. and N. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur le Port.) Mr. J. DL'CLOS ASSANDRL Messrs. J. ARTHUR and CO.. 10, Rue Castiglione. M. HECrOR L'UERBIER, 18, Rue de la J^ouane. Mr. BERGEROr. Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000. Mr. J. R. SHEA. 11, I'iaz/.a di Spa^na; Mr. A. TOM BINE Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. Mr. 0. A. RxVTl I. Mr. GAETANO PIEIROBONI. Mr. Fo" TOLOMEl Dl F^" Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse 2. will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so. ted always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to CH.\S. CARR k CO, 14, Bishopsgate Street Within. PRICE LIST OF WINES JMJ'ORTED UY CHARLKS CARK AXD CO., AG EN IS TO GROWERS. JVr dozen. CliARETS— M(Hl(>c i.'i*. toJ4*. St. Estf'phe, Mari;:iu.\, &c 'Ms. to 30*- St. Jiili.n, A:c. ' 42.ING AGENT TO H.R.H. THt: PRINCE OF WALES, 11, PIA2ZA Dl SPAGNA. At this Office pei-sons apply ins; for Large or Small Furnished Apartments inv.irinWy obUiiii correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected witli Lodging-HouseSj Boatding-Houses, and Household Management, while Low and Fixed Charges for practical services offer safe and satisfactoiy assistimce to Proprietor and Tenant, as testilied by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellei*s since the opening of the establishhient in 1852. Plans and Lists of Apdirtnieiits sent by Post f to j>ersons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at tile approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, "Mil. SilKA clears and warehouses Baggage and other eflfects for trnvellei-s who, to avoid the expense of quii-ix transit, send their things by sea or luggage-train, directed to his care. He also superintends the Packing of Works of Art and other Property ihtrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, •- CHUBB & SON, BY APrOlNTMKNTS, MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. pHUBB'S PATENT DEIT.CTOR LOCKS, the most secure from \J picklocks and false keys, are strons, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. Tranks, Portmanteaus, TravellinK Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, VENTIVK and their Gunpowuek-pkoof Steel-plated Locks, are the most secure from fire and burglary, and form ' '^ most complete safeguard for BcK)ks. .pers. Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other \ aluable property. CHUBB & SON have also strong wrought- iron Sa.it^, witliout tire-resisting lining, but equally secure in all other respects, intended for holding pla te where protection from tire is not an object, and affording much more room inside than the Pat^eut Safes. They are recom- mended specially in place^ of;the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be broken open. BUENOS AYRES GOVERNMENT CEHTIFICATE. Tbaxslatiok. We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas. C. Thompson & Co., certify that the Inox Safes of THessrs. Chubb & SoK, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were exposed for several hours to the Fiie that took place in the offices of the National Govern- ment on the evening of the 26th instant; that in our preseiice they were easily opened with their respective keys: that the moneys and important documents they contained were lound in perfect order, and that these Safes are how in use iii the National TreaeUry OflBce.— Buenos Ayres, Slst July, 1«67. (Signed) J. M. Or a go. Treasurer of the National Government JpSK TOMAS Rojo. Juan M. Alvakez. a true copy— A. M. Bell. Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, gratis and post-free. pHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 67, St, Paurs Cburcbyard, l^ondon, B.C. 16 MUJillAY'S HANDIiOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. 37, Finsbury Square, London, (Mr. Olivier establisiikd ln 1830,) COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS For Shipment and deception of Goods to and from all Parts of the Worlds and IMPORTERS OF WINES, ^c- OLIVIER & CO. have the honour to inform VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT that they undertake to receive an«l pass througli the Customhouse in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, wliich are attended to on arrival with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to their Moderate Charges, which have given universal satisfaction. Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency : — On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . alwut ISs. „ „ ,, „ of larger „ „ 20s. to SSs. On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the Ciire and trouble retpiired. When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. OLIVIER & CO. undertake the FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND to the Continent, to the care of their Corresj)ondents, where they can remain, if required, until the arrival of the owners. Also THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS of all kinds, which, from their long exj»erience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any- thing they may require from London. N.B.— The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to Olivier & Co., as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival. INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description attended to. 1871. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 OL.lVI£K At Aix-la-ChapeJle Alexandria Antwerp . Sc CO.*iS principal Correnpomleuts aire — . Messrs. A. SOUHP:Ull and CO. . Mr. J. \V. HKOWNE. . Mr. F. VKKELLKX L-SERXAERl. Messi-s. VLEUGELS and (30. . Mr. J. J. FREY, . Messrs. AX ION 10 MAZZETTI and CO. . Messrs. H. and 0. BEYKKMAN and CO., Wine G rower o. . Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and Co. . Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabrlques. Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montagne de la Cour. . Messrs. L. 1. VOGUE and CO. . Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Messrs. G. TILMRS and CO. . Messrs. VAUSAMACIiY and CO., Galata . Messrs. KRAE I'SCHMER and CO. . .Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. AnosU-U. Messrs. W. H. WCX)I) and CO. . Mr. MARl'lN BPXKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker. . Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. . Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAUVIN, DJAMANTI, and COS I'A. . Messrs. JULIUS \VlJSTKNFELD and CC-. . Messrs. CHR. EG LIN and MARIXG. . Messrs. RITSCIIARD and BURlvI. . Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. . Messrs. J. THOMSON, HENDERSON and CO. . :Messrs. ROSE & CO. . Messrs. GIKAUD FRERES. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. . Messrs. GiO. CURTl .Sc FLi". . Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. C Mr. G. CIVALLERI, 267, Riviera di Chiaja. • I Messrs. CERULLI & CO., 29, VitUjvia. [le Port. . Messrs. LH:S FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur . Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. [Martin, 43. . Messrs. LANGLOIS FILS FRERES, Rue des Marais' St*. M. HECTOR L'HERBIER, 18, Rue de laDouane. . Mr. BERGEROT. , Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibemergasse, No. 1000. . Mr. J. P. SHEA, li, Piazza di Spagna. Mr. A. TOMBINI. 2:j, Place St. Louis des Frangais. . Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ESandCO. . Messrs. MARTIN FRERES. . Mr. C HI A BOIX) PI E FRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. . Mr. HENRY DECOPPEr. Mr. F^'^ TOEOMEI DI F"* . Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are ivquosted always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CO., 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. PRICES OF ^^ I N E S I^'Il*t>l^ rK^^ BY OLIVIER AND CO., AGKNTS TO GROWERS. — o — per doz. duty paid. Claret, Shipped by F. Beyernaati, Bordeaux 18s., 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120;. Burgrundy „ Dumoulin aine, Savigny-sous-Boaune . 24«,, 28«., 36s., to 84fi. Hock ^ Moselle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz . . 24«., 30s., 36s., to 120s. „ Sparkling, „ . . 48s. to 60s. Cbampag-ne 48s. to I2s. Marsala, in i^r. Casks, from ib"ll ; Hhds. £21 . . .• . 26s. to 30s. Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to £35, delivered 42s. to 60». Clabbt, Burgundy, and Hock, In the Wood, at Growers' Prices. Detailed Price Lists may be had of 0. & Co., 37, Fimbury Square, Basle . . Fiologna . Honieatix Boulogne . Brussels . Calais Cologne . (Constantinople Dresden . Florence . Frankfort Geneva . Genoa ITambarg Havre Interlachen Leipzig . Leghorn . Malta MarseiUes Milan . Munich, Xaple^ Nice . Ostcnd Paris . Pau . Prague Rome . Rotterdam Trieste Turin Venice Vienna . 18 MUrirvAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEIiTISER. Mny, ZURICH. HOTEL DE L'EPEE AU LAC. Ill the midst of the Town, at tlie Weill Square on the Lnke. High roomed and well aiied House. A magnificent View from the Tenace over the Alps and Lake, especially u]>on the Mountain of Zurich, and from the Glacier Glarnish to the 'P'ti ' DINNER AT EVERY HOUR. OMNIBUS AT THK STATION. ANGLO-ITALIAN BANK (LIMITED). London Office - - 16, Leadenhall Street. Florence Branch - - 3, Piazza San Gaetaffo. Naples Branch - - Piazza del Municipio. Genoa Agency - - 10, Piazza Senole Piz. This Bank issues Letters of Credit on its Brandies and Agencies in Ital}^ Avhicli casli Bank of England and Circnlar Notes of the principal London Banks. Aberdeen Polished Granite Monuments, FROM £5. LkTTEK ClTriNT, ACCIRAIK AXU TJeAI TIFl'L. Best Quality Granite autl Mm-l-ic li'<>r/c ofallliiuJs. Iron Kalliiigs a.i J .' omb Furnishings tittetl complete IMans. Price-;, and Carria>;e free Terms to all parts r| of the World, from LEGGE, SCULPTOR, f MAYENCE. HOTEL I>'A1V&LET1i:R.3RE. HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combininsr every English comfoi-t), situated in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to tiie Steamboats and close to the Bailway Stations. From its Balconies and Kooms are Picturesque Views of tht Uhine and^ ^lountains. Galiekeii's Handbooks, Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's I^Tenees. Brakshaw's CoMi'LfrrK Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. 1*'. each. BaAOsuAw's 0%'t'rlaiid and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 6s. Bbadshaw's Haudl>ooks to Bi>mbay, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. Kellak's, Lktithold's, and Ziegler's Maps of Swlt?erland. Mavr's Map of thk Tvkol. Knapsacks, Rurs, Waterproof Coat^s, Door-fasteners. Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, ike. IIakpkr k Applkton's HAKDnooK to Kurope and the East. Black's Gl'idks to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. I'hraae Books end Dictionaries. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. GENEVA. ♦ « ■ HOTEL DES BERGUES. F. WACHTER, rROPRiETOH. In a matcliless position, and of European reputation, this large First-class Hotel was entirely re-arranged and freshly decorated in 1870, with the addition also of a new superb *' Salox de Conversation." Unrivalled for its fine Cellar of Wines, its Dinners, and prompt attendance. * — ■■■■ ^1. --I. . »- .., p^ , . ^ ^ PENSION FOR THE WINTER MONTHS, at very moderate Prices. 1871. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVEliTISER. 21 Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 6 & 7, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports (which are good for life) mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, •with the name of the Owner lettered on the ou'jjide, thus preventing Injury or l05s, as well as lessening the delay in exiuninatlon abroad. For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c., see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on receipt of One Stamp. Gratis on applUailun, or i'ree per p.st for One Stamp, STANFORD'S TOURIST't' CATALOGUE, Containing Title. Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Dictiox- AuiEs, &c., published hi the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, and kept con. stantly in stock by Edward Stanford. London: EDWARD STANFORD. 6 & 7, Chabing Cross, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Cliarts. GENEVE. GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. THIS first-rate, splendid Hotel has the advantage of being the most pleasantly situated in Geneve, on the Quaidu Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in front of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. Krom the (iarden and two delightful Terraces, and from eacli window of the Hotel, Mont Blanc, the Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent. Ciiarges moderate. Table-d'Hote three times a day. Ls the resort of the first English and American Families. MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors. First-rate House, containing nboiit one hundred large Apartments and Saloon, for Families, having been lately enlarged. ENGLISH SPOKEN AND ENGLISH NEWSP APERS KEPT. V E V E Y. GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY, opened February 1868. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE in every rftspect. Splendid situation in the midst of a large Park, on the Lake shore. Magnificent view in all directions. Baths in the Hotel. Lift. Telegraphic Bureau. Landiug- phice for tlie Lake Steamers (Grand Hotel). Omnibus at the Hallway Station. Board during the Winter Season. ALFRED HIRSCHY. oo MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, THE CONTINENT. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS. Society of Couriers and Travelling Servants. ESTABLISHED IG YeARS. Patronised by the Eoyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. rpmS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, X all of well-establislK d roputiitioii, great exporioncc, efficitmcy, and respectability. Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other Nations, com2)ose this Society ; some of whom, besides the usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Turkish, and Arabic, — in fact, ewery Continental and European language. Travellers for any 2)art can inmiediately meet with Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the Secretary. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 12, B^RY STRKET, ST. JAMES'S. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 1857. Oct 1857 1857 1857 1857. 1857. Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family : — / H. R. H. rbe Prince of Walks, accompanied by General Sir W. Copkington, 16 { Colonel Possonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Ahmstkong, Rev. F. C. I Tauveu, Mr. GiBBS, etc. „rt 5 H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden Aug. 20 j g^^^ jj^^^i ^Q jijg Majesty the King of the Belgians. Aug. 8 11. li. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. „ CT. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Maky of Cambridge, July 29 I accompanied by the Baron Kne8EBEc:k and Suite. - C H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to July 29 < -J, J, jj ^jjg Duchess of Cambkidge and Princess Maky of Cambuidge. ( H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. July 15 \ Grky, General Majou, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. I Armstkong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. J H. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- • I General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Ojwell. H. M. Adelaide, Queen 1X)wagkr of Grf.at Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxk Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar- rington, Sir David Davies. M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain Taylor, &c, &c., honoured the above establishment with a Threr Days' Visit. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and Queen Adelaide) and Suite. M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Kruol, Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Coimtess Howe, &c. R. PL the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. ... R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suit*. ( H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince • I Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. ( H, R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta • I of Cambridge, and their Suite. C H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the • I Prince of Lkiningen. . H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. C h! R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the • / * Prince of Leiningen. j T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and I Suite. 1856. Nov. 1846. June 18 1818. 1825 1834. 1836. 1H37. 1839. May . March and Sept. July. Aug. July, Nov. H. .{ H. H. — Nov. 1840. 1841. . . . 1841. . . . 1844. . . . — • • 1845. June 1847. July 24 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. P. ROMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of. and Successor to, the late Professor BartoUnl, has opened a Galleiy, Lung' Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed. ParNCTPAL Works :— The Son of William ' Tell; the Young Kranklin ; the Young Wa^sh- ingtou; the Young Whittiiijrton ; the Young Napoleon ; the Young Moiies ; Garibaldi. i J. FIELD, House and Estate Agent, Auctioneer, &c., THE LODGE, No.3, CARY PARADE, ( TORQUAY. i Tlio Nobility, Gentry, and Families gene- Tally, requiring Furnished or Unfurnished I'.esidences in Torquay or its neighhourhcoil. receive every attention and information. either personally or t.y letter, on application to Mr. J. F., whose whole time is e>peciallv devoted to House Agency, Sales by Auction kc, kc. All letters of enquiry must please contain a po&tage stamp. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. B.A. BREMOND, MANUFACTURER. Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. WHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION, 7, JW£ PHADIEB, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. GENEVA. HOTET^ I>E lX~COXJRO]\TVE. Proprietor, Mr. F. BAUU. q^HIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first Eank. completely J- newly furnished throughout, situated in iVont of tlie magnificent Pont tin Mont Blanc, the National Monument, tlie Steam-boat lau(iii)ir,''and the Kn^rjisl, Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont lilanc. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen Active attendance, good cuisine and collar. English and Ameiiaui newsiKi^^rs* Tables-dHote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. FLORENCE. BBIZZI AND NICCOLAI'S MLiAsicjvl ICstabliKliiiioiit. PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS FOR SALE AND ON HIRK. ' GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Italian and Foreigrn Music. Afnsical l.endivq Library. !> A /}^\ i^J^up A Snixrr I '^^^^'CH HOUSE (Music DkiGt) PAIxAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. | 12, VIA CERRETANl. 1871. MUREAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MUDIES SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Grxiinea pei* .A.nnxxm, COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. 'BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBEKAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. CONSISTING CHIEFLY OF WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. Catalogues postage free on Application. MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. CITY OFFICE— 4, King Street, Cheapside. ANTWERP, HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. ^^HIS Excellent fii'st-class Hotel, ^vliicli enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- Spaenhoven ; wbo, with his Partner, ^vill do everytbing in their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. Baths in the Hotel 20 MURKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEIiTISER, May, By Appointment to H. R. H. The Prince of Wales. ali:en& 37, WEST STR.x .D, LONDON, W.C. New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered Articles for 1871 Post Free. ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau. ALLEN'S SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE. ALLEN'S EXPANDING PORTMANTEAU. ALLEN'S 10 GUINEA SILVER DRESSING BAG ALLEN'S NEW DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE. LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU. Ai;so Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for OflBcers joining^ Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. IRELAND. 27 PORTRUSH. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, the Skebries, and I^ugh Fovle, It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, rrinclpally facing the Sea. A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, with Drawing-Roora attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table-d'Hote daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines Flrst-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Billinrtl and i^ttnokiiia; ItooniM. THE SEA BATHS, Roceutly rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Buowx, will be found to contain every nio«lern Improvement. Separate Apartmente for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, ShoAver, antl Douche Baths, The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment In connection with the Hotel. A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and back dally during the Season. Visitors to t/te Ilotd are respect/ulli/ requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM AliMS HOTEL Omnibus. It ^attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance oj Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BROWN, Proprietor. Portrush is Vie nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causetoay. London and South-Western Railway. LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BlilDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, HAVRE, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Docks, aloiigf.ide the Steamer. Fares throughout (London and Parid)-FiBST Class, 30/0 ; Second Class, 22/0. Hetum Tickets (available for one mouth)— First Class, 50/ ; Second Class, 36/. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO. DAILY MAIL SERVICE, Vid SOUTHAMPTON— The favounte Route. Fares Otroughmit (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 33/0 First ; 23/0 Second Clas.s. Every Weekday. Return Tickets (available for One Month)-48/0 First ; or 38/0 Second Class. The Last Train from Lonrbm in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. (^except on Saturdays , vn which day the Last Train is at 5.1.S p w.. for Jersey OTd\f)for the Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. DIRECT SKRVICE TO ST. MALO. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday according to Tide. DIRICCT SKRVnCK TO CHERBOURG. Every Monday and Ihurhday, leaving Waterloo Station at 810 a.m. For further Information apply to Mr. De Votille, 3, Place Vendorae, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 47 Grand (^uai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfieur. Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. Spencer, Guernsey. Captain Gaudln, St. Malo. — Messtn. MahieU. Cherbourg. Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, DRESDEN. ■ ><>* HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN. Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. rr\mS fiue Imgo Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral adjoining the Biuhl's Terrace, and opposite the Koyal Palace and Green Vault.' contains One Hundred Front Rooms. These apartments combine elegance and comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public ^valks and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridc^os and distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable' and private Promenade. Table d'H6te at one and five o'clock. Private Dinners at any hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Riding. I^illiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies' Parlour. GENEVE, GRAND QUAI 26. to* ■ ' Mimxxhttmtxs of Winitlm aub hMx^j, CHRONOMETERS and WATCHES with Complex Movements Great Choice of Jewelry in entirely New Designs. 3 MEDALS IN 1867. HOUSE AT NICE, 15, QUAI MASSINA. Corresiioudeiits at IjO^UON, rAIfliN, and ^KW \ OltK. Everything sold at Manufacturers' Prices, PURE AERATED WAtYrs. ELLIS'S RUTHIN WATERS, Soda, Potass, Seltzer, Lemonade, Lithia, and for GOUT, Lithia and Potass. CORKS BRANDED " R. ELLIS k SON^. RurniN " an.i fvppxr i^i^^i i,.„ n , * ^ mark. Sold everywhere. ar.d Wholesale by li. ill^.r^T^Z^., N^rlh wSe^^' ^'"''^ London Agents : W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St.. Cavendish Square. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 THE SWISS AND THE UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY, Amid TJ >£ O ]X T B L A IV O. Optical and Mathematical Instruments, particularly Telescopes, Opera Glasses, Barometers and Thermometers for Travelling, Glasses for Lv.nettes in Eock Crystal, Stereoscopes and Stereo- scopic Views on Glass. A Complete Collection of Swiss and Italian Views, HOTEL OESTERREICHISGHEB HOF, VIENNA. The undermentionepectfdlv, JOH. HKYDXKR, Pnoi'niF.roK. ci2 MtJRRAY*S HANDliOOK ADVERtlSER. May, FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. -•o*- Travkllers may save expense and tionble by purchasing Foreign liooks in England at the same prices at which they are pubHshed in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- LOGUE. 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC CATALOGUE. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 10. NATURAL HISTORY CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- matics, &c. 11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- dent Scioncps. 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- ment arv Books, ]\Iaps, &c. 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- LARS. New Books, and New Purchases. 14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- LARS. New Books and Kecent Purchases. ANY CATALOGUE SP:N'T POST-P'RKE FOli OXE STAMP. WILLIAMS & WORQATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, SouTir Frederick Street, Edinburgh. BADEN-BADEN. Grand Hotel and Pension Belle Vue, (Allee de Lkhtenihal, close to the English Church), Splendid situation, surrounded by laroje Pleasure Grounds. This Establishment is fitted up with every comfort and luxury. Kestaurant Table d'hote at 1 and 6 o'clock. Reading Eoom. Carriage at the Hotel. Stabling and Coach-house. C. SILBERRAD, Proprietok. VIENNA. THE EMPRESS ELISABETH HOTEL {KAISERIN ELISABETH). JOHANN HEUGL, Proprietor. Tills Hotel is situated in the centre of the Austrian cttpital, near St. Stephen's Square, and much frequented by English and American families for many years past; has been entirely and thoroughly repaired, and all its apartments newly and eles^antlv furnished by its new Proprietor. Handsome Dinini;-rooms and Diniug- hail, with Cardon, Reading and Smoking-rooms, have been added. English, American, and French I'apers on file. Private Dinners « la carte at all hours of the day. English Waiters and Commissioners in attendance. Charges moderate. Cuisine superior. 1871. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 NEUCHATEL, SUISSE. GRAND nOTEL~DU MONT BLANC, KEPT BY Messrs. BAUMERT and KOSER." ^PHIS splendid Establishment, the largest, most important, an• — A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE, One and a-half hour fiom Geneve, 3800 ft. above tlie lovcl of the sea. '3rOUNETIER HOTEL DE LA RECONNAISSANCE, Kept by PERKEARD-FAURAX. OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. %. fl j»r" ^ T LAUSANNE. » »^« ^T^ GM O B O iV Mb. RITTER, Proprietor. ■pIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in llio finest part of the Town, is in every respect very highly recomnir:ided. Splendid View over the Lake in all its extent. Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. PENSION DURING THE \YIXTI:K. LAUSANNE. HOTEL EICHE-MOXT, Kept by FRITZ RITTER. 'THIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- mendations, and in a situation of sur]»assing ber.tity. It is surrounded by Gardens and Promenades, and offers to Travellers a highly desirable place of residence, or of temporary sojourn. ft Important to the Travelling Public. PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT. THE CONTINENTAL DAILT PARCELS EXPRESS (ESTABLISHED ISdO), O OLE Ageucy for England of the Belgian Government Rail- ^^ way and Koith German Postil Confiederation, and Correspondent of the Xo:theru of Fiance Paihvay, conveys by Wail Steam Packets, Every Kight (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Hail and I'ost to destination, Parcels and Packages of all kinds, between England and ail paits of the Continent, at Through Kates which are very moderate, ar^d include all charges, except Duties and Entries. Parcels should he hoolced as follows :^ HOMENA/ARD.— From the Continent. In all Germany. At any Post-oflice of the North Gojman Postal Confederation, or of the Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, It:ily,Switzei- land, Kussia, Denmark, &c. Belgium. At any of the State Kailway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in Brussels, A. Crooy, 90 bis, Montague de laCour; or they can be sent direct to Mr. De Kiddek, 54, Kue St. Joseph, O&tend. Holland. In the })rincipal towns, Van Gend and Loo>. France. Paris, G. PiincnAur), 4, Rue Kossini. To whose care also, parcels for conveyance to Engl;md can be despatched from towns beyond Paris, with advice by Post. OUT WARD. -To the Continent. In London. At Chief Office, 5.J, Gracechurch Street, City (D. K". Bridge, ]\Ianager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the Universal Office, 34, i.'egent Ciicus. In Country ToWns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, Leeds, (Jlas<;ow, Dublin, Biadford, N"ottinghnm. Southampton, Dover, and Folkestone, as stateil in Books of Pates, which can be had gratis on nppiic;itiERTS()N & CO., English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, and General Commission Agents, 10, Grand Square, At.kxandria, and The Ezbekikh, Cairo. -♦c*- A Begister of Ungllsh and American Travellers is Icept at tie ahirve Esiahlisliment, and Visitors will receire any assistwice or information they may require. English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and pasted to all countries. DAVID ROBERTSON AND CO., ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. S' 1871. MUKUAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 r^ LUCERNE. HOTEL SCHTVEIZERHOF, HAUSP:R BROTHERS, Proprietors. THE I.ARGEST HOTEIi IIV SWITZEKIiAfOJ. Best Situation on the Quay, witli splendid view of the cele- hrated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. ''piIE high reputiition wbicb this establisbment enjoys among "*■ Travellers, and especially English and American fomilies, is the best and strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining.Room, with ac^oining Garden\^OC VICTORIA HOTEL, T^HIS fine large Establishment, situated on the jjublic Pronic- -^ iiade of the English quarter, ia the immediate vicinity of jiU the curicusitie?, contains On'K Hundri^d Rooms. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. The Garden uj the Hotel aff'orils ita guesU an ayreeahh Froinenadt^, CARBIAGES. READING ROOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. To Families or Singjle Persons desirous of taking Apart- ments for the Winter, advantageous arrangements will be offered. Proiyriefor and MojW(jfr of the Hotels CABL WEISS. DRESDEN. HOTEL DE L'ANGE D'OR. a'^HIS first-class Hotel, situated in the very best quarter of tlic town, close to the IJoyal Palace, the Museums, and the Theatre, lecommends itself by its sood management and excellent cuisine. Large and small Apartment"^. English and French Newspapers. Table d'Hote. Restaurant and Private Dinner> at all hours. Hot and Cold I>aths in the Hotel. Prices very moderair in Winter. JOS. HEN ETON. PjjoT'KiETor. ST. JOHANN, SAARBRUCK. HOTEL ZIMMERMAN N. T AEGE and Small Apartments. Exquisite Cuisine and First- olass Wines. Best Beds. Moderate Prices. Good Attendance. OMNIBUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 4X I < J, : * I The Miniature Photographic Apparatus for Tourists. NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGBAPEY BEQUISITE. Sole Manufacturers : HTJRRAT & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. Description and Prices forwarded on receipt of stamped envelope. HANOVER. XJNIOl^ HOTEL. ''PHIS well-known first-class and favourite Hotel, for private 1 Families and Gentlemen, patronised by Her Royal Hi|;hne>s Piince.-s Mary and Duke of Cambridcre, also Her Majesty the Empress ot Fiance, on her way to Wilhelmshohe, is beautifully and cheerfully situated right opj.osite the Railway Station. Elec^ance and comfort combined. Euiilish and French spoken. The utniost attention and civilitv. A regular Table d'Hote, and Private Dinner to order. Baths in the house. ' Private Carriages always ready. English and French News- paper.«. 'i'he Hotel is open all night, The new Proprietor. Mr. F. Tookehs. has just opened a very fine Coffee Room and a l^eautiful Kofresl.rncnt-rooni, attached to the Hotel. Pension 6 frs. a day, everything nicluded. ^ W IL D B AD. -•^•- CARFJIAGES TO BE HAD AT TH HOTEL. Hotel Klunipp, formerly Hotel de I'Ours, Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. THIS Fir>t-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a sepaiate Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and Conversation as well as'Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d'bote at One and Five o'clock. Breaktasts and Suppers a la carte. EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the pivment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibm of the Hotel to and from each Train. Elegant private carnages, vchcn required. 42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEUTISEK. Way, WIESBADEN. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. PBOPBIETOB, DB. ZAIS. T 'HIb First-Class Establislimeut, equal to any on the -*- lihine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Squnie, opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boilinj; Sprint? and the new Eriglisli Chapel. This Hotel is the lar«,'est in the place, containing a great choice of SPLENDID AND OOMrOETABLE APAETMENTS, for Families and Sinp^lo Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, combined with attentive service and moderate ciiarges. TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIVATE DIMEES. Numerous comfortahle Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot, Mineral ^ and Sweet Waters, LUCERNE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGK Propuietor— Mr. ED. STRUB. 'TITIb newlj-estal)li.slic(l Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, A and recommends itself by its ma^jniricent view on the l:igi,"pilatus, &c. Beiutiful Gardens. Pl.asiirc Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. Moilerate prices. (Reduced prices for protracted visits.) Omnibus at the Railway Station. PRANK F ORT- ON-MAIN". TTNION HOTEL (formerly Weidenbusch).— A Fiist-class Hotel for Families y and Sin<^le Gentlemen, situated in the richest quarter of the town, near the Stathaus, the Prumeuade, Museum, Post-office, and Theatre. IJaths, Reading and Smoking Koum. Moderate Charges. AiTangaa-Ms by the Week ur Almtu. BRUNO STRUBELL, Proprietor. NASSAU. ~ Seventh Edition, with Illustrations, Post 8vo., 75. ^d. BUBBLES from the BRUNNE^. Bv AN OLD MAN. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 FLORENCE. Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 4, VIA DI BORGO OGNISSANTI, Distlns4UHhed with Medals at the ItAlian Exhibition of 1861. keep the most beautiful and rich I'rlvate Gallery in the City of Ancient and modern original pictures, copies of the most celebrated pictures in the Public Gaileries. water-colour pdiutings, and beautifiil ancient carved cabinets, &c. ., ♦— — — KNGLTSH SPOKKN. Agents and Correspondents in England and America:— Me^rs. J. & R. McCKA-CKKN", 38. Queen Street. Cannon Street. London, EC. ^fessrs. DUNCAN, SH IRil AN, & CO,, aud Messrs. AUSj' iN. BA LDWIN. & CO.. New \ ork . NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BAVIERE CBAYERISCHER HOF). THIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and sinale rooms, all eU^gantly furnished in the new style. It is patronised by the most distiutruished tamilies. Knojlish Divine Service during the season. Foreign newspapers.^Carriages in the HoteU Omnibus to and from each tram. Moderate and tixed prices. . HEIDELBERG, — to* HOTEL DE LEUROPE. THIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- rounded by private and public gardens, with a view of the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, enjovs an European reputation. READING ROOM, Willi EiiS'li**^^ tvnci ^^iiicx-iettii I»tipei'S. Beduced prices for protracted stmj, and for the Winter Season. HiEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VILLENEUVE. NEAB TO THE CASTLE OP CIIILLOK. New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Same Proprietor as of the Hotel de VEcu at Geneva. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, oiferin j^ every comfort for an agreeable residence ; surroundixl by a vast Park and a beauiilul Garden, and admirably Mtuated for excursions to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking; Rooms. Reduced prices for a prolonged stay. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast ; Table^'Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English spoken. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) HOTEJL X> l'e:ctj, New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Also Proprietor of Hotel Bi/ron, near Villencuve. ^PHTS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel lias long enjoyed an A extensive and high reputuMon among' Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, and facing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of BO superior a character, that tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Table-d'HOte at l o'clock. 4 fr. ; at 5 o'clock, 4 Ir. ArrangHnienis made ^vith families during the winter mouths at very reasonable charges. Xew Reading and Smoking Rooms. GENEVA. Manufactory of Musical Boxes. SAMUEL TROLL FILS, WHOr.ESALE, RE i Air., EXPORTA'riOX. 6, RUE BOXIVARD, GROUND FLOOR, NEAR TEE ENGLISH CHURCH, GENEVA, DRESDEN. GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE. THIS well-known First-class Hotel, kept by Messrs. MAX and CHAKLKS DOKN, has been recently enlarged and embellishe«l. It contains 150 Front Rooms, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d'Hote at one and four o'clock, in the splendid dining-hall first-floor. Carriages, Reading-room, with English and American Papers, and Smoivinc'-rooni. M'lch veined prices for the winter. 1871. MlTRRAY'S HANDfeOOK ADVERTISER. 45 DIEPPE. HOTEL KOYAL, FACING THE BEACH, Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. I T IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading-room, with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. TaUe-d^IJote and Private Dinners. NUREMBERG. RED HOUSE HOTEL (Rothes Ross), Proprietor : »I. P. GALIMBERTI. Manager: M. BAUER. THIS excellent old-est.iblished Hotel, situated in one of the best quartere of the town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. Table-d'Hdre at 1 P.M., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the highest nmk during many years^^ ^Z O U G . STAG HOTEL. Near the Steamboat landing-place* Beautifully situated, and the best Hotel in the town. Moderate prices. A lai-ge and elegantly fitted-up Dining Hall. Poard and Residence, o to % francs per day. BRUXELLES. ^PHE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXP:, Rue Neuve, 77 and 79, is J- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new DiniDg-room which will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices :-Plain Breakfast. Uf. ; Dinner at the Table-d hSte, 3* t • Bedrooms 4-50 f., 5-50 1., 6 1. the first night each bed, Service and Candles nicluded ; the second nicht 3-75 f., 4-75 f., and 5-25 f; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 121.; Steaks or Cutlets. Inf. rravellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some other hotel. 46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1871. MURRAY*S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 4? RHEINFALL, NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN. »'::;-.;:^|*iyi! ' t^ '^' ' ""r^ *^l*,aAi^r^' HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. ruoraiEioR, Mn. WEUENSTEIX. npHE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to En-li«h visitors as X one of thp best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlargi^d since last year and is now a !«plpndi(l tirst-rate fstublishmenf. ' The SCHWKIZKKIIOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and sur- rounded by a hue park and garden. 'Jhe position is uri.>urpassed, the eye ranginu' a distance of abovt» 180 miles— a panoramic view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and Jhe Mont Blanc Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing. U'rices moderate Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen " BARCELONA. -•o*- A GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 7.V THE EAMBLA, Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & 00. ''PHIS is a first-rate "Rstablialiment, advnntni^cously situated close to ^ the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southerti aspect, and newlv decorated. Table- d'h6te; private servire; large and nmall npartroents; many fire-places; baths- reading- rooms; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the Railway Stations. Interpreters. JModcrate ttrms. HO MBU RG. HOTEL DES QUATRE SAISONS. MR. SCHLOTTERBECK, Pkoprieior. 'T'HIS Hotel is of the first class, and enjovs a well-nieritod remitntion. -t- It IS situated near the Spring* and the Cursaal. ' Kxcelltnt Tabk-dH6te and AVlnesJ the Proprietor is a large dealer in Wines ; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as comfortable and pleasant as iKjsaibie. MILAN. Hotel Cavoniv Place Cavoiii*-, Just opposite the Public Gardens. KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. THIS first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modem appliance, and situated in the finest I part of Milan. It cfjmmands a fine vi^w of the Promenade near to the SUtion, the Grand Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d'h6te. Charges very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoiiing and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. I NTERLAC HEN. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Kept by Mr. HERMANN RIMPS. } EXCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containini^ a -^ branch "Pension Felsenopg," with a fine Garden" attached. It has been recently enlarged and newly furnished, and contains 80 Beis. Boarders taken in, per day 5^ francs 'X^ 13 L 3J: O >' ]V 13 rj^, Dlt des 3 Couronnes. Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. ^PHIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to -^ the Lake, allbrds superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It has been lately considerably enlarged by the addition of a new Wing looking upon the Lake, in which is the largest and most elegant Salle -a-Manger in Switzerland. It is extensively patronised for its comfoit and cleanliness. Persons remaining some time will find this a most desirable Residence; and from October 15 to June 1 they can live here moderately en pension. DIEPPE. HOTEL DE~S BAINS (MORGAN), FACING the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, qiiietj tlioroughly recommendable. A laige private House also on the beach for F«milies. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 "VIEIVIVA. f^Vixstx-ia). HOTEL "ARCHDUKE CHARLES, Kept by M. JOSEF ZIMMEEMANN, The new Proprietor. 99 rpHIS First-class Hotel, situated in the best part of Vienna, Ims been greatly improved in modern comfort, recherche cuisine and excellent service at moderate charges. The Landlord will spare no trouble to maintain its ancient repu- tation, and to give satipfaction to the travelling Gentry and Nobility. GENOA. HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. CEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors, THIS Hotel can be strongly recommended : it is in one of the best situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good l-ootns, moderate charges, cleanliness, excellent Table-d'hote, as well as private service, with great attention and civility ; the comfort of visitors being consulted. •x "-v^y^^* '% /^ * vrx^x. English spoken ly the Proctor, 50 AlUKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEKTISKR. Waj, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 FRANKFORT O. M. TiilEDRICH BOHLEK, ZEIL, No. 54, NEXT DOOR TO TIIK POST OFFICE. PRTZK MKDAI., LONDON. IBO^i. ^'^ tJjl% Pra^' -^ '..' d%% .. ^ •"■ . ; f5-> *"■« *.f '1 Si ^' , ' . '•■• wH ▼■til Isil ^ > »/'«,, S l," W , . * ,., ; ._ . . 'i -.'• „ j|(.^,: . 4 ft ^ ^ ^ • < "^ ^^ i^.A.n:srTj:F'j^CTOi^-y o:f CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, CARVP:D wood work (Vieuxcbenc) Furniture & Fancy Objects, f (orhs, ^'umps. ^ronus, Cbin:r, i^antn Articles of tbcrn pcscription. SPECIALTTIKS OF GERMAN ARTICLES Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling Articles, Toilette Eequisites, etc., etc. SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNIGKER. Oenuine Eau de Cdoijne of Jean Marie Farina^ 02)2>osite the JiiUchsjjlafZ: FIXED PRICES. The Agents in Loudon are Messrs. J. aud R. McCrackex, 38, Queen Street, Canuou Street West. THE NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR 1833. Head Office— ^SHOPSG ATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET, St. James' Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE. PALL MALL. St. Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL PAID-UP CAPITAL RESERVE FUND No. of SHAREHOLDERS ••• •»• ••• ..£2,550,000 1,170,000 O 276,840 8 5 2,273. JBircctar^. Rijfht Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles Bkudknkll Rrucf, M.P., 7. St. Gtorge's Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. JoHv Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset Square. John Kingston, Esq.. 6, Croeby Square. Hknrt M'Chlery, Esq., 16, Leadenhall Street. Hknrt Paui.l, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place, Portland Place, W. John Stewart, Esq., 4, Bank Buildings, Lothbury.* Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart. 18, Cornwall Gardens, W. Richard Bijiney Wadk, E.-q., 13, Seymour Street. Portman Square, W. Hon. Eliot Thomas Yokke, 15, Park Street, Grosvi-Dor Square, W. Duncan Macdonald, Ksfj-.Weybank Lodge, Guildford, Surrey, and Belgrave Mansions, Grosvenor Gardens. George Hanbury Field, Esq., 67, Eccleston Square. Alex. Robertson, Esq.,20, Grafton Street, Berkeley Square, W., and the College, Klgin, N.B. The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches hi England and Wales, as well as agents and airrespondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to parties transacting Banking business with It in London. Customers keeping accounts with the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted free of charge. Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual terms of London Banks. Deposits at interest received in London of sums of lOl. and upwards, for which receipts are granted, called " Deposit Receipts;" and interest allowed according to the value of money from lime to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, &c., received for customers. Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent .and elsewhere. The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. Copies of the last Annual Rep(»rt of the Bank, Lists of Sliareholders, Branche.s Agonts, and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank's Brancbeti. By order of the Directors, E. ATKINSON, WM. HOLT, ) Joint 3 General Managers. K 2 52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PENZANCE, CORNWALL. MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a SEASIDE FAMILY HOTEL & SUPERIOR LODGING-HOUSE. NO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. The house is funiished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable lor Tourists to West CoiTiwall. All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and tmuurpass^^ff view of that ' Beauteous gem set in the silver 6<>ft,' St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the mngnifirent Bay. Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. Suites of apirtments for families of distinction. Choice Wiues and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderat<». E. LAVIN, Proprietor. ANTWE R P, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53 VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. (Formerly REGINA D'lNGHILTERRA.) ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. '-„•"",/ ■•^.^- THE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension. English spoken by all the Servants. CONSTANTINOPLE. HOTEL DU GRAND LABOIIREUR, PLACE DE MEIR, 26. This old-eBtablishod and highly-recommended Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest sq^uare of tlio city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and the excellency of tho Table-d'Hote and Wines, added to the attention and civility shown to all visitors, liavo mnde it deservedly popular. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. ,#' ^\ HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. ''PHIS long-established aaid well-known Hotel, situated in i the GKaND rue DH PEliA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRIVALLED BOSPHOHUS, is replete with every comfort and convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. A Select Table-d'Hote. In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the facility with which it Qi\\\ now be reached from nil parts of Europe, and Passengers who Select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA and the EAST, it is requestelv Enlarged, and newly Furnislied with all the requirements of modern times, this FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, entirely Private, has merited, under the careful attention of the Proprietor, for its «*onift»rt, cloiinliness. and order, the unquestionable patronage of the most distinguished Travellers. This Hotel is situated in the highest and healthiest part, the very centre of Moscow, with tlie front to the gunside, and most convenient for visitors on plensure or busii)ess, being near tlie Impt-riid Theatre and Opera House, the Krcml. nnd the Boulevards, .and also close to the C ty, tlic Exchange, the Post and Tel(>»grai)h Otiices, and the business places in general. Single Eooms and Apartments, excellent Table d'Hote Dinner at 5J p.ni,, separate dinners, choice wines. Prices motlerate. Ladies' Room, Reading and Smoking Room. English Newspapers, viz. : 'The Times,'* The Graphic.* and 'Punch;' French and German News- papers. Every sort of information about the town, its environs, trade, and the inland communications. Own Letter-box. Interpreters and Guides. Bank Notes and Bills of Circular Letters changed. Cold, Warm, Shower Baths, Sponge Tubs. Equij)agcs and Droshkies at the door. No j>ersonal trouble whatever with the Pas.sports, which are strictly refjuircd by the })olice office. Own Carriage and attendance at the Peters- burg Railway Station to receive the Travtllers and their Luggage. It is advisable to secure Rooms beforehand, especially during the time of the Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in Janunry and February). CAUTION. — Travellers are cautioned not to confound the HOTEL BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and to take care not to allow themselves to be leil away by the Cnbmeu or Iswosclitschiks and other interested persons, especially at St. Peterslmrg, but lo insist on being conducted to the HOTEL BILLO, Great Lubiatika ; in Russian, Gostinnitza BiUo, Jiahhvi LubianJca. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 TO CONTINENTAtelRAfflJ-ERS. DORRELL & SON'S 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. British Subjects visit- , — :^ tail, by post, on appllca- in<,' the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass- ports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass- ports forwarded through the post. A • Passport PiiosPExrrus,' containing every particular in de y ■ J^fSi' tion. Passports Mounted, and enclosed in Cases, with the name of the bearer impressed in gold on the outside ; thus af- fording security against injury or loss, and pre- venting delay in the frequent examination of the I'assport when tra- velling. Fee, Obtaining rasspart. Is. 6d. ; Visas, is. each. Cases, is. 6d. to bs. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description. Travelling Inkstands, and a va- riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. CANTON DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). 3>0<0«' G^RAND HOTEL DES SALINES, Kept by L. FELLER. HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. ,SALOON FOR PULVERISED SPRAY BATHS OF VARIOUS MIXERAL WATERS. Established after the newest and most perfect systems known. Consulting Doctor . DR. COSSY, LATELY BOUSE SURGEON TO THE PARTS HOSPITAL. 5G MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BY ROYAL .*^5T" '^^^S'tjiblished and justly renowned Pharmacy, and tiiat having associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well deserved reputation. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. HEAL & SON have 16 separate Rooms, each completely furnished with a different Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their general Stock displayed in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole forming tlie most complete stock of Bed-room Furniture in the Kingdom. Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six difterent colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart for separate rooms, so that customers are able to see the effect as it w^ould appear in their own rooms. A Suite of very superior Gotliic Oak Furniture will generally be kept in stock, and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods will be added. Bod Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a complete ns^iortment may be seen, and the eflfect of any particular pattern ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. A very large stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON'S original trade) is placed on the BEDSTEADS. The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned Goods for plain and fc'ervants' use, is very greatly increased. The entii-e Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, each 120 feci long, and large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- room Furniture as they think can i)ossibly be desired. Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work and they liave largo Worksliops on the premises for this purpose, that the manufacture may be under their own immediate care. Their Bedding trade receives their constant and personal attention, every article being made on the premises. They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the Soramier Elasticiue Porta tif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower in price than the old Spring Mattrass. HEAL AND SON'S riLUSTPATED CATALOGUE OF BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, SKNT FRKE BY POST. 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 60 • MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO NAPLES, GENERAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BRITISH LIBRARY {Establhhed in 1837 by Mrs. Dorant), DIRECTED Br GEORGE CIVALLERI, Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. ' WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges of rent. BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT cashed free of commission, couKTTR'S' vtrmna of BvcR-r sescbzptzok, both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS,^c., IMPORTED. Agency Business of every description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, HOUSES, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. Correspondents ] Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. in London ( Messrs. CHARLES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate Street. FLORENCE. 12 liXTisra-' ^laTvTo isrxrovo. MONTELATICI BROTHERS, Blamtfartitifrs of jfl0i-tntuix Mosiiics. ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. SUCCURSALE, BADEN-BADEN, opposite the Hotel dAnghterre. Small 8vo., 38. 6d. ESSENTIALS FOB HA.\I)BOOK-TBA\'EL TALK TR AVELLI NG. -^ English, French, German, I^^®1^®^'« l^^^^ "^^^^^ S^^**' . Threshers Kashmir Flannel Shirts. and Italian, for the Use of Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Socks. ^ ,. , , , „ . Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts.' Englishmen abroad, or Foreigners , Thresher's Travelling Bags. in England. | SOLD o.nly BY TirRKSHEl^ (fe GLENNY, ' NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE JOHN MUIlliAY, Albemarle Street. ^ STRAND 1871. MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 61 BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE BELLE YUE. Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. ^HIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor evciy kind of comfort and acconiraodation, lias the great advantage of being situated adjoining THE PALACE OF THE KING, and facing THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single Hooms. TabU^d'Hote^ richly served. Choice Wines, SMOKING ROOM. READINO ROOITI, trlth the best BetgiaM, English, French, Oermattt and American Dailr Papers and PeriodicaU. Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. ARRANGEMfiNTS MADE FOR fHE WINTER. Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt an^l civil attendance, combined with moderate cliarges. 62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKKTISER. May, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK. ADVERTISER. 63 ^I^I>E^L. I^HE COMMITTEE of the CHUECH of ENGLAND EDUCATION SOCIETY earnestly a].peal for increased funds to enable theni to continue the Society's operations. Many of our Schools for the Poor are either absolutely dependent upon the Society's giants, or would be crippled in their work without'such aid. The same may be said of many Pupil Teachers who have been enabled to complete their course of training. The Society also supplies SCHOOLS with all kinds of Registers and Stationery nt reduced prices. The Society's means are far from adequate to the exigencies of the present time which urgently demand every possible effort to secure for an increasing population a sound Protestant Education. F. MAUDE, R.N., Chairman. REGINALD GUNNERY, Hon, Clcr. Sec. 11, Adam Street, Adelphi, W.C. ST. PETERSBURG. -K>^ HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, ST. ISAAC'S SQUARE, {Gostinitza Anglcterrc, Issakofski Snlwr.) H. SOHMITZ, Proprietor. 'THIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in the centre ,7", ^^ *^^ ^'*/' ^''""^ ^^^ ^*- ^"''^■'^'^ Church, near the Post-olhce, the Roval Palaces and Pubhc Buildings, affords lar^e suites of well-furnished Apartments lor Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen A lartre Dming-room wheie Dinners are served from Three till Seven o'CIock fioni one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-ioom. The « Time^ and other English, French, and German Newspapers. HOT AND COLD BATHS, TUBS, 'aND SITTING BATHS. Guides and Servants speaking English. Omnibuses at the Standing-place, and vis-it-inx the Poiilway Sta- tions, on tlie loveliest position of the Lake, with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatu?, Alps, and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 comfortable llooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms, where are French and English news- papers. Charge for Rooms per diem, Ifr. 50c. to 3fr. Table d'Hote, at 1 • • • 3fr. 4*30 . . 4fr. 7'30 . . 3fr. NOTICE. ti >> >» »» The ' Times' ' Calvjnani' ' I'Indepen- dance.' the * Bund,' and other German, French, and American papers are taken for the Reading Room. A PEACTICAL INTRODUCTION TO Tni: NORWEGIAN LANGUAGE, CONSISTIKG OP GRAMMAR AND EXERCISES FOR THE USE OF ENGLISH TRAVELLERS JX NORWAY. BY J. Y. SARGENT. M.A., Fellow of Alagdahn College, Oxford. W I V I N G T O N S. ROTTERDAM. LETTS, SON, k CO. ( L I M I T ED), 8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.G., SUPPPLT PASSPORTS Within 24 Hours' Notice, to any part of* the Kingdom, on receipt of the necessary Banker's Recommendation. They have also a very complete Set of MAPS by Foreign Publishers and Governments, AMD GUIDE BOOKS, IN English, ^xtwth, ant^ *(J5erman, to all parts of the Tourist World. H. A. KRAMERS, Importer of Poreig-n Books. Mr. Murray's • Handbooks for Travellers, Bradshaw's Monthly Railway Guides, Bar- dekkr's • Reischandbiicher,' and Hen)>- scHEL's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. English, French, and German Books im- ported Weekly, and a great variety of Kew Books kept in Store. 47,*GELDERSCHE KADE. CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION. LETTS, SON,& CO. (LIMITED), Agents for the Sole of the ORDNANCE MAPS OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. ^ 64 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. iMay, 187t. ESTABLISHED 183,Q. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPOT, AND LEE & GARTER, ■440, WEST STRAND, LONDON (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). KNAPSACKS STIFF on LIMP. PORTMANTEAUX OF ALL TATTEUNS. BAGS OF ALL KINDS. Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to rnsit this Esiahlishmcni before iimMng purchases for their journey. AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM:~ Guide Books (in pocket bindings. Maps and Plans of all Parts. Foreign Dictionaries. Dialogues and Grammars. Polyglott Washing Books. Journals and Diaries. Pocket Books and Note Cases. Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. Money Belts and Bags. Writing Cases and Blotters. Ink Stands and Light Boxes. Foreign Stationery. Travelling Chess Boards, &c. Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. Barometers & Thermometers. Field Glasses & Compasses. Eye Preservers and Spectacles. Railway Rugs and Straps. Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. Luggage Straps and Labels. Travelling Lamps. Camp Candlesticks. Flasks and Drinking Cups. Sandwich Cases. Luncheon Baskets. Dressing Cases & Housewives Soap and Brush Boxes. Sponge and Sponge Bags. Baths and Air Cushions. • Waterproofs & Foot Warmers. Camp Stools and Leg Resta. Portable Closet Seats. Etnas for boiling water. Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. Glycerine and Insect Powder. Door Fasteners, &c., &c^, &c. fyoalon: rrint?d by Willum Clowes and Sox,'. Stimfon! S'rcpt ^n iidMi: aN!> ( fit i,\ \ i I H t . I t i I > MUllRAY^S ENG ^ '^4 ^llpt^dl; 'all circles and cla.sc. oi Heui..-.^ r;..t >y..^ Pnbl,.h^ at a. ^d S... r,'i. cacti, and arranged uuder two distmctivo hca-ls .as ,.:.,K>.nv . .- OLASS A. mSTOBY. BIOGEAFOT. AND HJSTOEIC TAIES. 1. rilE SIKOE OFOIBEAI.TAR. By John DrinkwaTE!:. 'Is. 2. THE A3IBKR-WITCII. Tr.inNiated from tlio t;ern)a;i. 2,? 3 CROMWELT. AXi) EUNYAN. By IfetBKUT SOUTHEY. '.Is, 4. LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKF:. By John iUruiow. 6 CAMPAIGNS AT WASIHNOTOX. Bj llKV, G. II., Qtma. 2t. 6 THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. From tlio Germim and Frcocli. "i*. 7. FALL OF THE JESU'ITS, 2^. g. LI VON IAN TALES. ByaLAi>r. 2.^-. 9. LIFE OF THE GREAT CONDlt. By Lord Mahok. 'is. 0tl. If, PALE'S BRIGADE IN AFGHANIS^ TAN. Bj Lkv. G. R, GLHia. 2*. 11. TIIK TWO SfEOKS OF ^VIENNA. I-i. TilH WATSfOl". CIli'HS. A T:i' 13. TOE LIBr:iiAT10X WAi MAJ^V, dr;r..slat(-.i OF WA n",ur< I'), Ly litv. u. !^. lis O'HU- - i R A. Gl,F.!0„ ;'!• »;,' lA. A'nTOB'OclUAl'UY OF :fif;'vM.V lu. LIVES OF TllV. lUllTISlf !N)K.<. IT. HIHTORICAfi LSSAYS. Ly Lo::u Ma HON (%('. 13. LIFE 01-' LtHlO '/"IJVi:. Ly Fl,,.^. G. R. GLk.!';. :'.^'. '-'i. I's). STOKEIW AXO f'tiiKits: ,,: T^.f. No'iTt? Wi„HrEr:N i;,iiLw*.y. Ly ftiu 20. Id F V. f > !• i ; r. N" !■; it a I. M r v n o . By JLwv G. !k. ULi.iU. w*. i-i. CLASS B. VOYAGES, TBATELS, AKD AB¥ENTUB:ES L THE BIBLE IN SPAIN. By Giioiics BOKROW. 'is. M. 2. THE GIPSIES OF SPAIN. By GeoegbBobbow. Srf. 6ti. 3 & 4. JOURNALS IN INDIA. By Bishop ilKBKB. 'J Vols. ,*. 6. TEAVEL3 IN THE HOLY LAND. By IiiBT imd Mai.'ui.es. 2*. 6 MOROCCO AND TUB MOORS. By J. Dltl'MMOKO IUy. 2j, 7. LKTTERS FROM THE BALTIC. Bj S SKETCHES' OF NEW SOUTH WALErf. By AIes. MMtumi. '2». 9 THE NEGROKS OF THE WK3T INDIES. By M. G. Lewis. 2*. 10. SKETCHES OP PERSLi. By Sta H FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCR AT ■ 'the COURT OF FKKIN. 2«. 12&i3, TYPEK AND OJiOO ; or, rus Boi-TH Ska IsLAMPWts, By Uke- MANS MiEI.VttLB. 2 Yols. T^. 14. MISSIONARY LII'K JS iMNAr \ By liEv. J, Aiiri-.'TT. -'.s. 15. LKTTERS FROM MADRAS. L,;. . L.\T>Y. l:-!- 16. ilfGHLANOBPGIli'd P/IAml^k^ St. JuiiN, ;;#. ''•-A 17. PAAIPAS JOLGNLYS. J'ySiHA.fJ. IlE.vti. '2.s\ :.■'. o.^ 3. BPSH LIFE IN AU-vrUAl.iA, !./; Hii.r. H. W. li.4VGAR!'iL ::i. 24, THELirO'AN OKSKGL P/JG'. : . St. John. i'^. 25. LETTERS FROM SIERRA L!-./>:n P. By a Ladv. 'i$. Uii. Jac?i ireri may k fiad $tp>j,roiuy. mim MUEKAY, ALBKMARLK STilEKT. /««. PS7L 1 L(».NiHsN AS IT IS. Map and Plans. ]6mo. 3s. 6.L'i\, ANI» SrHlER-SET— Saltsbury, Chtpfexham. Wl'Y- k( .UTH. Sh 1RB(>K!< B, WEI.I..3, B4TH, BrUI-OL. TaVNTON. &C. JIap. I'tWt STO. ] '- -t. l5KVA»N ANI.) C(:jUN\V'ALL-.~~ExETEii, Ilfiiacombr, LiNi-iy, StDMorTii, ItAWUBlI. TEIGNMOCTH. PlTMOUTH, PeTOXTORT, TORQl-AT, L.^U.-fCSSTOS, .!'£» za'nck. Fa LMOfXH, The Lisa ki*, Land's End, &e. Map. Post 8vo. lOit. GLOroHSTKU, IIEUEFOKD, AND WORCESTE "'- Cirenck^teh, Chel- "^KNJIAM, hTP.'/il-U, TEVSKt:.-^!.; IVY', LROMIVSTSR, R('3.-i 5lA.l,VEnN, Ki.nstiSKMIXiTER, DEKnY, NiPrTS, EH fCT'sTEE. AND STAEFOiU)--^! ATLorjv, Eakewrll, «.A»Al8WoKTB. Phk PK.^K. JA.,XT.-;rK, HaIIBWICK. ]»i,¥F. HaLK. .A.S1! 3 Ji-VH. SOCTH- wr.i.i, 5lANsr:fcUj, Uetpokd. Burtun, Hklyoii;, Mei.T'.>n- Mowsha^, Wol^uH- HAMVTOX, LicHFiisLn, WAUiAf-i., TAiiwoRfiJ. Map. Post Svo. li. 6?1 SIIROrbHIKi; €HESliIRI% anj> EANCAS!lIRE.-^^^-SnKEW..BrRT. LvT)i,riT, Lin£l,N- HK.VT-. WaRF.INCTOK, P.T'Ry, llANCHR.STtR, LiTERFOOL. -PtliNLFT, CuirHEKOE. B'>:.r;.>»f. P; Af'Kiii ftv. Wmav, I'kkston, !kioiii'.\M'", LANi-AiTHH,, SocTfsp'MU' , i.i.A.-Kr.--'..L, AC, Slart. i'u«t St o. iUi. TOEKslHUK---D(>*ic.i'^TKR, Hi:i,L. SelkYj Bi-vritLKt, ScAitBoiioniHAVinTBT. II Ar!K.:">GA'rE, M'.V'jH. I-BklX^. ■W.4KKF1ELD, BR.U.»i-uR0,, UaLIIjAX, lIUivDERir.FlKLl., S>;ejf!ki.d. Map una I'laus, Post Svj. Pit. I)li:iIAM AND NORTHUMBEREAND— Newcastle, DAiiLixfiTox, .BiAHor Al'fKLAVIV SrorKTO-N", .H .-i KTI.EPOOI,, Sl?>JDERLAN», SillKLD.S, BeEWIcK, TTSt- M'.'i T!{, Ai.NWicK. Map. Puiit Svii, 9j. 'W'ESTMOELANi) AND CUMBEEEAND— Eaxcaster, EtJUM'^s Abbet, .^Mr^K^tiiE, KK>T>Ar,, Wli»l-F,R.1JHRK, C'.>N'HTUS. Kr.SWICK, GtiAaMEEK, CAttU.-jLi!C, CixKtimuuTH, p£>HrrH, AI'I'I-SBY. Alap. Pc^lSv-., i)s. JS'Ojrril AN]» b'.>i;TE^., AVaI.1:S— r.A.v.,o!.:, Caii.xarvu.%% Bk-^i-aiaws, Snow- DCN'. Cm.KWAV, CAltMAHXtJK.S', TS-NET, fe WAStiK.A, AND 1 U K WYE. Ma|i«. 2 Tobs. I'yst .Svo, l-„\f, SCOTLAKI). -- EiiiNBuiicir, Melrose, Kel^o, Gl-^sgoav, DrMFiUES, Av.t. ^'■■:!^:I.r.NO, Akran. Ti-:h; Cltbe, Ubak, 1k"f.f,karv, Loch P.nMoxD, I.,.-,c.ii K.MT.irilL *Mj TltOhACtlS, CAI-E0.3KIAH OaKAL, In VEIlVESH, pKHTH, DfSDKK, ABtRi>kfN. i^RAKMAR, Sk¥k, CAITHNESS. Kosa, a'NIj Sutiu:kla::i; D. MaV'i &rid PM.aus. lA'St Svo. U^.. IBELAND. ^•Dublin, Belfast, Donkgal, Gal%tat.. Wexi-ciid, Cork, J.!,« fj.iL s, \VATf,nt'Ui'.i», K.!i,LAF.KET. MuKsrEit. Map*. Post ;:vo, i-.?, CATHEDRALS OF EMGLAHD. ijOPinEIlN CATJI EDlt A ES— AATNCHEATEii. Sali.hf'Ury, .E.^eter,, 177.1.1.3, IliH-wERTEE, Caxi,eb.hl5.kv, AM>CMicHi":CTKK. lllustratiort»= 'i%'(Hs, crviwitSva. 24#. J' '.sTEitN CATHEDEAE8— ().\Foia». Fn'EiiBoiiouGii, Ely, Noewich. axd Lt.HCOLK. iihistrations. Crown Svo. l:;.t \VESTERN OATH EDEAES— liiiisTOL, Gloucester, IlEttF.j-oi;i), ^Voi!,cf>-ti!R, AKi> L!«'HFiKLD. lOu.stratious. Cri.-v.u Svo. lik. Ni;i.TiIEHN EATHEDRAES-YoitK, E.!Fcy, Duhham, CAiiLisLis (Tu>sir:a, il*..!-' .^Pf. NVUKSTER. liiu.'itnsi iOttS. t vr.'m., '2].:!. '.AJAfl^A . -jv •■■■ , - _ '' *i :^'^ '\^-3>.i^'''..'^..^M hf' > ■is*'*, ,,.* |^^r'---::if^;;i 1 >■•' 41,'ji » "1 t .. "'^, ^ A^' ijffijiE."' . ' ■.'- *lflff V^ isWji'^J 'tr * S«*l»' ' •-■; X '* ' i^ ' ^