Columbia S^nittem'tp THE LIBRARIES { p '-^'^ h^^^' rn HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS SCOTLAND FOURTH EDITION, REVISED WITH TRAVELLING MAPS AND PLANS ■ -EGND-a^'^'.': ^ JOHN MUEEAY, ALP.EMABLE STEEET EDINBURGH: OLIVER & B0YD7 'I^TJT3LTN: W H. SMITH & SON 1875 '\'\-^Z'\^% PEEFACE, Notwithstanding the existence of other Guides for Scotland, the constant demand for a Handbook for Travellers in that country, and reiterated assurances that such a work is reallv needed, have induced the publisher to offer this volume to the public as part of his series. If it possess any superiority above its predecessors, it will be found to depend on its being compiled from bona fide personal knowledge of the country, on the clearness of its arrangement, and the facilities of reference ; and, above all, it is hoped on its accu- racy and completeness. But as perfect correctness is scarcely to be attained in a work of this class, crammed so full of names, dates, and facts, man}^ of them constantly changing from year to year, but capable of verification on the spot, those who make use of it are earnestly invited kindly to point out any errors or omissions which may be detected, and communicate them to the publisher. The Editor of the Handbooks to North and South Germany, France, etc, having of late years travelled much in Scotland, with never ceasing admiration of the country, has undertaken the re- vision of the Third and Fourth Editions of the " Handbook of Scotland." He has revised great part of it on the spot, and has re- written nearly one-half. He would fain hope that he has rendered the book more correct, complete, methodical, and practically useful to travellers in general. The division of the Routes into sections enables him to offer a few general observations under each, with the design of directing the stranger at once to the most interesting objects, and hence aid him in planning his own Route. a 1 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. Index or Clue Maps of Scotland at beginning and end of the volume. Basin of the Dee .... Plan of Edinburgh .... Edinburgh to Perth, Stirling, Melrose, Moffat, etc. Glasgow and Stirling to the Trossachs and Loch Lomond Plan of Glasgow ..... Firth of Clyde, AiTan, Loch Fyne, and Loch Long . Oban to Glencoe, Mull, lona, Staffa, and Loch Awe Caledonian Canal ..... Perth to Killin and Blair- Athole Sketch Map of Loch Coruisk, Quiraing, and Storr Pvock Skye, Gairloch, and Loch Maree Sutherland, Caithness, and part of Ross Sketch outline of Glen Clova ,, ,, Larig Pass Travelling Map of Scotland .... to face title-page tofacf I page 42 66 126 141 180 225 243 286 381 394 400 322 295 at ena of volume * N.B.— The figures on the Clue Maps refer to the numbers of the Routes. Abbiieviatio>'s — m. — Mile. Ely. — Railway ; Stat. — Station. 1:^. S. E."W. — Points of compass. P. H. — Attached to names of Inns, Post Horses and Carriages. C. — Commercial. + Indicates a Pier, or Landing-place of Steamers. * Calls attention to objects worth notice ; and, in the case of Inns, is a mark of recommendation. CONTENTS. Preface General Introdfctiox 111 [9] SECTION I. The South of Scotland— Lowlands — Land of Scott and Burns- The Border — Tweedside — Yales of Tweed, Xith, Upper Clyde. EOUTES. *^* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. ROUTE p.- A London to Edinburgh (Leitli), by Sea .... 1 Carlisle to Edinburgh, by LiddesdaU, Haioick {Dry- burgh), Melrose, Ahhotsford, and Galashiels — Eailway 2 Newtown St. Boswells Junc- tion to Berwick-ou-Tweed, by Jedburgh, Kelso {Flod- den), and Coldstream 3 Newtown St. Boswells to Reston Junction, by Green- law and DuHsc— Railway 4 BerwicTc to Edinburgh, by Coldingham,D unbar {Sovih. Ber\vick], Haddington, Pres- tonpans, and Musselburgh, North British Railway (Coast Line) 5 Carlisle to Edinburgh (Glas- gow, or Stirling), by ioc^'cr- bie [Lochnuibcn], BeaUock \_Moffat\ and Carstairs Junction — Caledonian Ry. 5a Symington Junction to Peebles, by Biggar and Broughton 6 Galashiels to Moffat, by Sel- kirk (Rail), Vale of Yar- row, St. Mary's Loch, and Grey Mare's Tail 29 31 68 ROUTE PAGE 7 Selkirk to Moffat, bv the Ettrick Valley . " . 80 8 Carstairs Junction to Glas- gow. [Branch to Lanark, Falls of the Clyde, and Douglas'] . . . .81 8 a Qf\.2iiigo^\ io Bothwcll, Ham- ilton, Lanark, and Falls ofChjde .... S3 9 Carlisle to Glasgow, by An- nan, Dumfries, Sanquho/r, Kilmarnock, and Dairy Junction . . . ,90 10 Dumfries to Fortimtrick, by Castle - Douglas, Neioton- Stewart, Wigtown, & Stran- raer — Caledonian Rail. 101 10a Castle-Douglas to Kirkcud- bright, Dundrennan Abbey, Gatehouse-of-Fleet, Antcoth 109 11 Stranraer to Ayr, hj Ballan- trae, Girvan, and Maybole 112 12 At/t to Glasgow, by Troon, Kilivinning, A rdrossan. Paisley [Dalmellington, and Loch Doon] . . . 116 13 Edinburgh to Galashiels, by Dalkeith, Hawth ornden, Roslin, Penicuik, Peebles, and Innerleithen . ,125 VI Contents. SECTION II. Central Scotland — Glasgow — Stirling — Dumbarton — Part of Lanark and Perthshire — Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The Trossachs. ROUTE PAGE 14 Edinburgh to Dunfermline, by Dalmeny, Queensferry, and InverTceithing . .137 15 Edinburgh to Stirling, by the Forth, Alloa, and Cam- buskemieth . . .140 16 Edinburgh to Glasgow, by Linlithgoto and Falkirk . 144 17 Glasgow to Edinburgh, by Airdrie and Bathgate . 158 17a Edinburgh to Glasgow, by Mid-Calder, Holj^town, and Gartsherrie Ironworks , 160 18 Edinburgh or Carstairs Junc- tion to Stirling, by Larhert and Bannockburn . .161 ROUTE PAGE 19 Glasgow to Loch Lomond and Tarhet, by Dumbarton and Balloch [Helensburgh, Gare- loch]— Rail. . . .165 20 Stirling to Inversnaid, by Loch Mcnteith, Aherfoyle, and Loch Chon . . . 172 21 Stirling to Loch Lomond, by Dunblane, Callander, Loch Katrine, and The Tros- sachs .... 174 22 Stirling to Loch Lomond (Balloch), by Drymen [Forth and Clyde Rail.] .182 SECTION III. ESTUART OF THE ClTDE — BuTE— ArRAN— LOCHS LoNG, GoiL, FtNE, Awe— Etive — Linnhe— Inveraray — Oban— Mull — Iona — Staffa — Glencoe — Ben Nevis — Caledonian Canal. 23 Descent of the Chjde. Glas- gow to Arran, by Greenock and Wemyss Bay . .188 23a Glasgow to Greenock and Wemyss Bay, by Paisley an^L Bridge of TFciV— Rail. 199 24 Glasgow to Campheltown and M^dl of Cantyre (by sea) . 199 25 Campbeltown to Tarhert, by Barr, and WestTarhert Loch 202 26 Glasgow to Islay and Jura 204 27 Glasgow to Ohan, by the Clyde, Dunoon, Bothcsay, Kyles of Bute, Loch Fyne, Ardrishaig, and Crinan Canal .' . . . 209 28 Ardrishaig to Oban, by Loch Awe and Gorge of the Brander . . . .213 29 Glasgow to Inveraray, by Dunoon, Kihnun, Holy Loch, Loch Eck, and Loch Fyne . 216 30 Glasgow to Inveraray, by Loch Goil, or by Loch Long, and Arrochar . . .217 31 Loch Lomond (Tarbet) to Oban, by the Pass of Glen- croe, Inveraray, Loch Aice, and Dahnalhj . . .218 34 Loch Lomond to Fort- Wil- liam, by Tyndrum, Glencoe, and Ballachulish . . 225 35 Oban to Staffa and Io7ia, — a Cruise round the /. of Mull 229 36 Oban to Bannavie, by Loch Linnhe, Appin, Ballachu- lish (Glencoe), and Fort- JFil- liam — Ben Nevis . . 238 36a Ardgour to Lochs Sunart and Moidart by Strontian and Salen . . .242 37 Fort-William (Bannavie) to Arisaig, bv Glenfinnan and Loch Shiel . . .242 38 Fort- William to Kingussie, by Glen Spcan, Glen Roy {the Parallel Roads), and Loch Laggan . . .245 39 Bannavie to Inverness, by the Caledonian Canal, Fort- Augustus, Loch Oich, Loch Ness, and Falls of Foyers . 247 Contents. vu SECTION lY. Fife — St. Andrews — Kinross — Clackmannan — Part of Perth- shire — Perth— DuNKELD — Dundee — Forfar, etc. ROUTE PAGE 40 Edinburgh to Dundee, by Burntisland, Ciqmr, and St. Andrev)s .... 256 40a Edinburgh to Perth, by Burntisland Ferry, Mark- inch, Ladyhank, A hernethy, and Bridge of Earn . . 265 41 Edinburgh to Dunfermline, Kinross, and Stirling, by Thornton Junction . . 267 42 Stirling to Kinross and Perth, by [Alva] Alloa, Dollar, Cattle Cam2)bell, Bumbling Bridge, Kinross (Rail), and Cauldron Linn [Glenfarg] 269 43 Stirling to Perth, by Criejf Junct. and Auchterarder . 274 44 Callander to Dunkeld, by Lochearnhead, KilUn (Eail), 'Kenmore, Tay- mouth, and Abcrfcldy . 278 45 Stirling or Perth to Loch- earnhead, by Crieff (Rail), Comrie, and St. Fillans . 284 45a Crieff to Aberfeldy or Dun- keld, by Amulree and the Small Glen . . . 288 46 Taymouth (Kenmore) to In- veroran, by Fortingal and Glcnhjon . . . .289 47 Kenmore to King's House (Glencoe), by Kinloch-Ran- noch. (For Pedestrians) . 290 48 Perth to Forres and Inverness, by Dunkeld, Killiccrankic, Blair - A thole, Kingussie, and Grantoivn (Rail) . 292 49 Perth to Dundee and A rbroath (Rail) . . . .303 SECTION V. Aberdeen — Forfar — Deeside — Braemar — Strathspey — Elgin- Banff — Nairn — The Cairngorm Mountains. PAGE I ROUTE 50 Perth to Aberdeen, by Ciq^r- Angus, Forfar {Brechin), Montrose and Stonehaven . 315 51 Kirriemuir to Ballater and Braemar, by Glen Clova . 326 51a Brechin to Glenshee, by West Water, Clova, Glen- prosen, and Glen Isla. (For Pedestrians) . . .329 51b Brechin to Ballater, by Fd- zell and Glcnmark . . 331 51c Brechin to Banchory, by Ed^ell, Fettercairn, and the Cairn Mount . . . 333 52 Aberdeen to Braemar, by Banchory, Aboyne, Ballater (Rail), and Balmoral . 334 52a Braemar to Aviemore, by Liiin of Dee, Wells of Dee, and the Larig Rue Pass. [Ascents of Ben Muich- Dhui and Loch A' an {Avon)] 342 52b Braemar to Dunkeld [and Pitlochrie], by Sjjital of Glenshee, Bridge of Cally, and Blairgowrie . . 347 52c Braemar to Blair- Athole, by Bainoch and Glentilt . 349 53 Aberdeen to Fraserburgh and Peterhead . . . .351 54 Aberdeen to Alford and Strathdon, by Kintore . 354 55 Aberdeen to Inverness, by Huntly, Keith, Elgin,Forres, and Nairn (Great ISTorth OF Scotland Railway) . 358 55a Aberdeen to Banff, hy Inver- amsay, Fyvie, and Turriff . 370 55b Perth to Elgin, by Craigel- lachie and Rothes, and to Banff by Craigellachie, Dufftown, and Keith Junc- tion (Rail) . . .374 VIU Contents. SECTION VI. AVesterx Highlands axd Islands (Outer Hebrides) — Skte — Lewis — Loch Maree — Loch Torridon — Glen Shiel — Loch Alsh and Loch Duich. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE 56 Oban to Portree in Skye, by Arisaig, Eigg, Kyle Akin, and Broadford (steam voy.) 381 57 Strome Ferry to Skye, Broadford and Portree (steamer), to Quiraing, Storr Rock, and Dunvegan . 385 58 Balmacarra (Loch Alsh) to Portree in Skye, by Kyle Akin Ferry, Broadford, and Sligachan (Excursion to Coruisk) . . . .389 59 Portree to Stornoway and the Outer Hebrides . . .393 60 Invergarry or Fort- Augustus (Locli Oich) to Skye, by Tomandoun, ^ GleJi Shiel, Loch Duich {Falls of Glomach), Loch Alsh, and Strome Ferry , , . 397 61 Shiel House Inn to Skye, by Mam Rattachan, Glcnclg, and Kyle PJica Ferry . 400 62 Dingwall to Strome Ferry and Skye, by Strathjjeffer, Garve,Achnasheen, and Loch Carron (Skye Railway) . 401 63 Achnasheen to Loch Maree and Gairloch, LochTorridon, Shieldag, and Applecross. — Shieldag to Loch Carron 403 SECTION yii. Inverness — Sutherland— Caithness — Ross— Cromarty— Assynt- Lairg — Loch Inter — Dunrobin — Cape Wrath — ROUTE 64 Inverness to Cromarty, by Fortrose 65 Inverness to Golspie and Helmsdale, by Beauly, Dingioall, Tain, Bonar Bridge, and Lairg (Rail) . 65a Beauly to Shiel House Inn and Loch Duich, by the Valley of Beauly, Kilmor- ack, the Druim, Glen Can- nich, Chisholm's Pass, Glen Affrick, and the Pass of the Bcallach of Kintail . 65b Bonar Bridge to Golspie, by Dornoch .... 66 Dingwall, by Garve to Ulla- pool and Poolewe . 412 416 421 424 425 67 Lairg to Loch Inver and Du7'- ness, by Oykel Bridge, Loch Assynt, and Scourie . 68 Lairg to Durness, by Loch Shin; Scourie to Loch In- ver . . . . 69 Golspie to Thurso and Wick, by Helmsdale . 70 Helmsdale to Wick, by the Orel of Caithness 71 Wick to Thurso, by Huna and John-o' -Groaf s House 71 A Lairg to Tongue 72 Thurso to Tmigue,hj Melvich and Bettyhill 73 Tongue to Cajje Wrath, by Durness and Snioo SECTION VIII. The Orkney and Shetland Islands. ROUTE PAGE 74 The Orkneys, — Wick to Kirkivall, Maeshow, Sten- niss, Stromness, and Hoy . 446 76 The Shetlands, — Lertoick, Mousa, Fetlar, etc. . 426 429 431 436 438 439 440 442 455 Index 459 GENEEAL INTEODUCTION. -♦ — PAGE I. Travelling View of Scotland — Eailways, Steamers, Coaches, Inns and Cookery, Posting and Hired Con- veyances [9] II. Antiquities [17] III. Geology [21] IV. Comparative Heights of Scotch Mountains . . . [30] Y. Hints for Yachtsmen in the Hebrides and West Coast OF Scotland [31] YI. Skeleton Routes [38] YII. Explanation of Gaelic Words and Highland Xames of Places [48] I. General Information for Travellers in Scotland. Since the clays when Pennant made his slow but comprehensive journey to the west coast and the Hebrides — when Dr. Johnson travelled with ill-suppressed sneers and disgust to the Isle of Skye — or when, in later days, the persevering Macculloch examined every little inlet on that dangerous coast in the very frailest of con- veyances — a perfect revolution has been effected in Scotland in favour of the tourist, whether vehicular, equestrian, or pedestrian. In place of the rugged fastnesses which guarded the romantic scenery of the Highlands, we have, generally speaking, good roads and swift conveyances on them. Even the once dreary solitudes of Suther- land and Caithness are, for practical purposes, as well off for roads as many an English county. At every point good Inns, sometimes rising to the magnitude of palaces, have been erected for the tired and thirsty tourist, while, where possible, railways and steamers convey their patrons into the very heart of the mountains. a. Railways have intersected pretty nigh all the lowland and coast districts, and are now penetrating into the recesses of the Highlands wherever there is the remotest chance of traffic, present or future. Generally speaking, the railway service of Scotland is safely and comfortably carried on, although, as compared with England, trains are slower in speed and fewer in number. But on the main lines from England there are at least one or two expresses daily, which [Scotland.] h 1 [10] I. Travelling View : Railimys. Introd. leave notliing to Le desired as regards rapidity by the tourist. The eastern entry into the kingdom is of course by York, Newcastle, and Berwick, via the Great Northern and North-Eastern lines. Carlisle is the citadel by which access is gained on the west, and this is in possession of the London and North-Western and Midland Com- panies. All these companies offer great facilities for tourists, both in price and accommodation, and these facilities are amply supple- mented across the Border by the Scotch railway companies. From Carlisle we have — 1. The Caledonian Pdy., which, originally a trunk-line between Carlisle, Glasgow, and Edinburgh, has spread its nets so far as to monopolise the traffic of half Scotland, particularly on the W. It now embraces a. The southern section, including main lines to Edinburgh and Glasgow, with branches to Dumfries, Stranraer, and Portpatrick, Peebles, Lanark, and Douglas. From the Motherwell Junction of the Glasgow branch, a fresh access to that city is gained via Clydes- dale, and there are also in the same district a great number of short railways which scarcely affect the tomist, inasmuch as they are for the accommodation of the ironworks and collieries. This same sec- tion embraces lines from Glasgow to Greenock, Wemyss Bay, Lesma- hagow, Hamilton, StrathaA^on, and Crofthead ; nor must we forget a very important communication between Dumfries, Castle-Douglas, Stranraer, and Portpatrick, being in fact one of the great routes between Scotland and Ireland. 6. The central section of the Caledonian comprises the lines between Greenhill Junction, Stirling, and Perth, with a short branch to Denny, and another to Crieff ; also from Perth to Dundee, Dun- dee to Newtyle, and Stirling to Callander. c. In the northern section is the great trunk-line from Perth and Dundee to Forfar and Aberdeen, with branches to Meigle, Arbroath, Blairgowrie, Brechin, Montrose, and Bervie ; also a direct line between Perth and Crieff. d. The western section contains the Forth and Clyde Junction Eailway (worked by the Caledonian) from Stirling to Balloch ; and the line from Stirling to Callander, Lochearnhead, Killin, and Tyndrum, which it is intended eventually to carry through to Oban, by Loch Awe and Dalmally. 2. The Glasgov) and South-Western Rly. serves the country between Carlisle and Glasgow, sending off branches to Castle-Douglas, Kirkcudbright, Muirkirk, Newmilns, Ardrossan (for Arran), Ayr, Dalmellington, and Girvan — in fact, it embraces all the district from the S. to the W. coast. Scotland. I. Travelling Fieiv : Railiccujs. [11] 3. The North British is fortunate in having two points d'appui, viz. Carlisle and Newcastle. The first is known as the Waverley Eoute, and connects Carlisle with Edinburgh via Hawick, sending off branches to Gretna, Langholm, Kelso, Jedburgh, Selkirk. The eastern section of the same company unites Berwick with Edinburgh, with branches to Dunse and St. Buswells, North Berwick and Had- dington. A line running up the Tweed Valley connects Berwick with Coldstream and Kelso. The North British owns the line to Peebles, Innerleithen, and Dolphinton, and has also become pos- sessed of other railways, such as the Edinburgh and Glasgow, the Stirling and Dunfermline, the Glasgow and Loch Lomond, the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee, together with a number of shorter subsidiary branches, such as the Leven and East of Fife, and those to Dunfermline, to Kinross, to Leslie, to St. Andrews, and by Stirling, the Devon Valley, to Dollar and Rumbling Bridge, and Campsie Valley, together with the lines to Milngavie, Queensferry, and Grange- mouth. As far as the tourist is concerned he need not complain of the want of railway accommodation in the south of Scotland. 4. One of the most charming and picturesque lines in the king- dom is the Highland Rly., which, with grand energy and persever- ance, runs through defiles, over torrents, and across mountains from Perth to Dunkeld, Blair-Athole, and Inverness, thus placing the tourist in the very heart of the scenery he wishes to explore. The branches on this line are to Aberfeldy, leading to Loch Tay, and to Burghead, Elgin, and Keith ; while the main trunk continues north- ward from Inverness to Dingwall, Golspie, Helmsdale, Wick and Thurso ; so that a traveller may literally journey by locomotives from the Land's End to John-o'-Groat's House, 5. The wealthy and populous district to the N.E, of Scotland is served by the Great North of Scotland Rly., which starts from Aber- deen and runs to Forres, there joining the Highland Rly. to Inver- ness. It embraces a good many branches, viz, , the Deeside (from Aberdeen to Ballater), to Fraserburgh, to Peterhead, to Alford, to Old Meldrum, to Turrifi' and Macdufi", to Banft' and Portsoy, to Lossiemouth, and from I^eith to Craigellachie, whence an extension runs up the Spey vajlley to join the Highland line at Boat of Garten. A new access to the Isle of Skye has been opened by the Rail- ivay from Dingwall on the E. coast to Strathcarron and Strome Ferry, whence steamers ply to Portree in Skye daily. B. Steamers communicate regularly and frequently with all the principal Scotch ports. On the E. coast, between London, Newcastle, Edinburgh (Leith and Granton), Dundee, Aberdeen, Invergordon, and Wick ; on the W. coast, between Bristol, Swansea, Liverpool, and [12] 1. Travelling Flew : Steamers. Scotland. Glasgow. But these are seldom adapted for tourists, who wish to get at the heart of their work at once, and they are moreover too much devoted to traffic to be always comfortable. They are, how- ever, well suited for the sportsman who has a large staff of ser- vants, dogs, and indispensaVdes to forward to the moors. For the metropolitan tourist who wishes to get to Deeside and the Gram- pians with economy and fresh air, the steamer from London to Aberdeen will suit very well, but he must be a good sailor to enjoy it thoroughly, as the North Sea and the E. coast present very dif- ferent conditions of water from the landlocked surface of the Cl}de. The tourist on the W. coast, however, is obliged, if he wishes to see it thoroughly, to confide himself to the tender mercies of the sea. Fortunately for him the Messrs. Hutcheson have catered for his com- fort in the most complete manner, and provided a fleet of steamers exclusively for tourists, who can thus navigate the fiords and inlets of the West Highlands with perfect ease and comfort. The lona is a floating palace. She sails daily in the season down the Clyde, through the Kyles of Bute, and up Loch Fyne to Ardrishaig. The passengers are here transferred to the Crinan Canal boat, and after a short pas- sage rejoin the steamer which takes them on to Oban. Connecting steamers run daily between Oban, Ballachulish, Fort- William, Loch Ness, Inverness, through the Caledonian Canal ; also excursion steam- ers from Oban to Ballachulish (for Glencoe), and to Staft'a, Mull, and lona. Twice a week, at least, the more distant islands of Lewis and Harris are visited, via Skye and the Hebrides, calling at the various little ports on the west coast ; and by this bi-weekly method communication is regularly kept up between Glasgow, the Hebrides, and the N.W. coast. These deep-Sea steamers, it must be admitted, are not so quick or so comfortable as the special passenger steamers to Inverness, as they are partly adapted for the purposes of trafiic, particularly in wool and cattle. Nevertheless, the com- parative slowness of the vessels is amply counterbalanced by the beauty of the scenery, the bustle at the difl'erent landing-places, and the many varieties of character which one meets with. It is only justice to add that in the whole of the Messrs. Hutcheson's fleet the traveller will meet, at the hands of the captains and officers, the ut- most civility and attention ; the commissariat is also well attended to. Other steamers run between Glasgow and the Western Isles, but are more specially arranged with a view to traffic. The tourist down the Clyde may pick and choose at the Broomie- law which watering-place he will patronise, and he will be sure to find a boat waiting fur him. Greenock, Helensburgh, Gareloch, Loch- goilhead, Arrochar, Loch Long, Gourock, Dunoon, Kirn, Kilcreggan, Scotland. I. Travelling View: Coaches. [13] Kilmun, Inellan, Toward, Rothesay, Tighnabruich, Colintraive, In- veraray, Ardrisbaig, Tarbert, Campbeltown, Largs, Millport, Weniyss Bay, and Arran, are all daily visited, more or less often, the last-named island being also served by a twice-a-day steamer from Ardrossan. On the Forth, Stirling is visited daily from Leitli or Granton. Ferry steamers ply several times a day between Granton and Burnt- island, and at Queensferry. The inland lakes, such as Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and Loch Awe, are also made accessible by steamers running in connection with the railway companies and the coaches, for which circular excursion tickets are granted, so as to save the trouble of re-booking. c. Coaches abound in the tourist districts, fdling up the gap be- tween railways and steamers. The following are the service routes of coaches : — 1. Between Campbeltown and Tarbert. 2. Stranraer and Girvan. 3. Ardrishaig and Oban, with a branch coach to Ford for Loch Awe and the steamers. 4. Oban to Inveraray and Tarbert (Loch Lomond). 5. Oban and Pass of Brander, there to meet the steamer for Cladich, and the coach from Cladich to Inveraray. 6. Edinburgh to Dunfermline, by Queensferry. 7. Oban. to Tyndrum and head of Loch Lomond. 8. Head of Loch Lomond to Inverness, Tyndrum, Glencoe, Ballachulish, and Fort- William. 9. Killin to Kenmore and Aberfeldy. 10. Ballater to Braemar. 11. Callander to Trossachs, Loch Katrine, and Loch Lomond. 1 2. Selkirk to St. Mary's Loch on the way to Moffat. 13. Edinburgh to Roslin and Penicuik. 14. Dunkeld to Blairgowrie, Spital of Glenshee, and Braemar. 15. Kingussie to Fort- William, by Loch Laggan. 16. Garve Station to Ullapool. Mail Cart. 17. Achnasheen to Loch Maree and Gareloch, 1 8. Lairg to Loch Assynt (Inchnadamff), Loch Inver, and Scourie 1 9. Crieff to Comrie, St. Fillans, and Lochearnhead. 20. Beauly up Strathglass to Invercannich and Geusachan. Some of these are mail carts, or open waggonettes, more parti- cularly in Ross and Caithness shires, — very suitable excursion con- veyances, which win be welcomed by many a tourist in those out- of-the-way regions. [14] I. TraveUinfj View: Inns. Introd. Generally speaking, tlie coacli service is fairly performed ; but the same unqualified x^raise cannot be given to all of it as to tbe steamers ; and it is to be hoped that the proprietors of these ser- vices which are exclusively tourist arrangements, will use their best endeavours to bring them up to the same standard by land as Messrs. Hutcheson have done by sea. D. I7ins are abundant enough, and vary from the lofty and splen- didly furnished hotel to the little wayside inn. In all the large towns and the principal " trysting-places," particularly on the west coast, the hotel acconmiodation is admirable, and if it is rather ex- pensive, as it doubtless is in some places, it must be remembered that for eight months in fche year the hotel, with all its outlay, is practically tenantless ; and even the success during the other four months depends on the good graces of the weather. In many places, too, the cost of transit for necessaries and. provisions is a large item in the hotel-keeper's expenses. It may be remarked that Scotch inns though in the centre of grand scenery, are with rare exceptions placed in the worst situations, just where no view is to be had. The windows are small, and the walls thi'ck to resist the weather, but there is general comfort. As tourists in the height of the season are gregarious, and follow the beaten track, the traveller, particularly if with a party, is recom- mended to time his arrival at certain places as early as possible, and to secure beds and rooms beforehand, as he will otherwise find that even chairs and sofas are not always to be obtained. This precaution applies still more to some of the more solitary districts of Eoss and Sutherland shires, as the inns are limited in size, and are frequently monopolised by sportsmen. Especially is it necessary to look ahead to secure quarters for Sundmj, when tra- velling, by whatsoever conve3^ance, is almost arrested in Scotland. Eooms should be secured two or three days beforehand at a Sabbath resting-place. The Telegraph wires have been carried everywhere into the remote Highlands, even into the Island of Skye, and give every facility for the conveyance of messages. A pedestrian may travel and live cheaj^ly enough in the N. and N.W. It is true he may frequently have to put up with a bowl of Scotch broth, a fresh herring, and a jug of whiskey toddy to wash it down with ; but if that is not a dinner fit for a prince, it certainly is for a pedestrian tourist. In the smaller liostelries you are often oppressed by a stifling odour of stale whiskey and dried haddocks. Without enforcing upon Southerners and Cockneys the strictly na- tional dishes of Haggis (? hachis) and singed sheep's head, cold, with which Dr. Johnson was so disgusted that Sir Walter Scott found it Scotland. I. TravdUlng View: Inns; Inn Charges. [15] necessary to write in its defence,* a word may be said in favour of hotchpotch, cock-a-leeky, collops of beef and minced, grouse occa- sionally in the season, scones and oat cakes ; with such dishes in a bill of fare, aided by fresh herring and salmon, no one ought to complain. Even the saturnine Dr. Johnson "ate several platefuls of broth, with barley and pease in it, and seemed very fond of the dish, remarking, ' I don't care how soon I eat it again.' " Although the chief inns in the Highlands are excellent, there is a want of village inns, and in some districts on the skirts of the Grampians and in Braemar the pedestrian may often have to walk 10 or 20 miles without reaching one. This depends on the will or prejudice of the landowners, who have the power of opening and closing an inn in their o\vn hands, and one would think that the policy of encouraging travellers, as the Duke of Sutherland has done, would be more profitable than that of exclusion. The general Inn charges are on the whole moderate. In the cities and mammoth hotels, the handsome sitting-rooms, command- ing the best view, cost 10s. a day, and the lower bedrooms 5s. Dinner in private 6s. to 8s. ; but in the country districts the fol- lowing are the average charges : — Bed, 2s. to 2s. 6d. and 3s, Breakfast, with meat, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Dinner : — Table d'hote 4s. to 5s. ; apart, 6s. Tea, without meat, Is. to Is. 6d. ; with meat, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Attendance, Is. 6d. a-day for each person. E. Posting. — On all the high roads, travellers not availing them- selves of public coaches, may travel as comfortably and as cheaply (or dearly) as in England, with post-horses. The charges are Is. a mile for 1 horse, 3d. a mile for driver. For 2 horses Is. 6d. a mile, 4d. a mile for driver, but for a whole day's work the driver ought not to get more than 5 s. In some parts turnpikes are both numerous and expensive, seldom less than Is. for 2 horses. The carriages for hire are tolerable ; the more common, a car, or waggonette, is called a machine (only a bathing machine is known as a " coach " in Scotland), — some of large size, holding 8 or 1 persons. On by-roads the number of horses kept is limited ; and even on the more frequented lines, during " the tourist season," there is such a run on conveyances that the supply of horses often falls short. It is not always worth the innkeepers' while to increase the number for the short season of two to four months, when this large demand * See Croker's " Boswell." [16] J. Travelling Tiew : Useful EequisUes. Introd. exists. The traveller, therefore, must take care to bespeak horses and vehicles beforehand. If he orders by telegram, which he may now do in all parts of the Highlands, he should pay for an answer. Even with this precaution he must be prepared for detention now and then. F. Pedestrians. — Alpine climbers need not disdain to mount many of the Scotch mountains. There is work enough in many of them, together with a spice of excitement, although rarely any danger, except for those who are foolhardy. The greatest risk for pedes- trians arises not so much from inaccessible scrambles, as the mis- taking their way, and being overtaken by mist, in which case it is as perilous to fall over a low rock as a tremendous precipice. The distances, moreover, across the moors are so long, and the straths are so similar one to another, that it has happened before now that a party have had unwillingly to bivouac on the heather, and endure the pangs of hunger, thirst, and fatigue, before reaching their destination. The usual provision for hill districts are specially required in Scotland, viz., good thick boots, a reliable stick, a flask of whiskey, a light waterproof, or, what is better than all, a good Scotch plaid, resjDecting the excellence of which hear an enthusiast — of course a Scotchman ! After remarking that a lady's riding-habit is " one of the many uses to which a plaid can be turned, and of which no other garment is susceptible," he continues — " With the help of a belt it can in a few minutes be made into a full dress for a man ; it is the best and lightest of wraps by day, and serves for bedclothes at night ; it can be used as a bag ; it will serve as a sail for a boat ; it is valuable as a rope in rock scrambling ; it can be turned into a curtain, an awning, a carpet, a cushion, a hammock. Its uses, in fact, are endless, and as a garment it has this superiority over every other, that there's room in't for twa !" — N. The wanderer should secure a correct Majj ; or, failing that, the fullest directions previous to starting, and the most rigorous observations as to the way of the wind, the direction of the streams, all which make up the educa- tion of an experienced traveller. A good field-glass adds much enjoyment to the excursion, and is often of more practical value in detecting a distant path, and thus saving the pedestrian much loss of time. A compass is indispensable for the pedestrian. Black's large J/a;; of Scotland, in 12 sheets (each sheet sold separately for 2s. 6d.), will be found of the greatest use to travellers, especially pedestrians. It is very clear and very accurate. The Ord- nance Ma}) is admirable, but unfortunately is completed only for part of Scotland. G. It is almost needless to say that the less luggage the tourist Scotla:nd. II. Antiquities. [17] takes with him the more independent will he be, but a moderate- sized portmanteau will contain ample supplies for a considerable tour. Even in the middle of summer warm clothing should not be neglected, the nights among the hills, or on the East Coast, when an " easterly haar " (as a damp m'ist and east wind is called in Scot- land) comes driving up from the sea, being cold enough to render additional garments by no means unacceptable. Take a dark coat for better wear, and remember that it is not quite comme il faut to walk about large towns like Edinburgh and Glasgow in a costume w^hich w^ould be suitable enough for a hillside or a moor. A couple of hints more perhaps may not be out of place : one is to remember that the Scotch Sabbath is excessively rigorous, and that nothing whatever is allowed to be done which may in the slightest degree seem to contravene the laws of the kirk. It is not always possible to get a conveyance, except in Glasgow, Edinburgh, or at the seaside watering-places. The other hint is to recollect that the Scotch middle and lower classes are not, as a rule, given to joking, except with their own dry, sententious humour, and that they very rarely understand w^hat is commonly called " chaff." It is better to bear this in mind, as it may account for many an apparently surly manner or gruff reply. Finally, every tourist should visit Scotch scenery prepared for every kind of weather, and gifted with a considerable stock of patience. The very day, the very hour, on which he may turn back, disheartened at the w^eather, it clears up, and reveals views unparalleled for atmospheric effects. The traveller in the west of Scotland, among the lochs and rivers, is subjected to an intolerable insect plague of " midges," — small gnats, scarcely A^isible, but covering the face with painful and endur- ing punctures. Prince Charles, in his year of hiding, 1746, was nearly driven distracted by them. Turpentine is said to be an antidote, but the cure is almost as bad as the disease. II. Antiquities. Scotland has a large field open to antiquarian exploration, and the wonder is how few attempts have been made to examine and describe it systematically. It may not be amiss to give a short list of the principal works in this branch, so that the tourist who is interested in the subject may consult them. They include Pennant's " Tour in Scotland ; " the publications of the Bannatyne and Spald- ing Clubs (the latter of which is particularly full on inscribed stones) ; Transactions of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Scotland ; the " Cambridge Camden Society's Papers/' which contain a learned [18] 11. Antiquities. Introd. series on the Argyllshire Ecclesiastical Antiquities bv Mr, Howson ; Grose's " Antiquities ; " Billings' " Baronial and Ecclesiastical Anti- quities," a magnificent and exhaustive work ; " Pre-Historic Annals of Scotland," b}^ Daniel Wilson ; " The Sculptured Stones of Scot- land," b}^ John Stuart, 2 vols. 4to (Spalding Club), 1856 and 1867. The works of the late Cosmo Innes — "Scotland in the Middle Ages : its History and Social Progress (I860)," and " History of the Northern Parts of Britain," — abound in valuable and trustworthy information. P^eeves' " Life of Adamnan " contains the best account of lona and St. Columba. These, together with Burton's valuable " History of Scotland," are perhaps the most important and the most accessible sources of information. Of late years much attention has been directed to 1. The Earkj or Pre-historic Remains, which, in the districts on the coast, and more especially towards the north, appear to be unusually abundant. Operations for draining revealed in the bed of the Loch of Dowalton (Wigtownshire) traces of the lake dwellings so common in Switzer- land ; and researches in Caithness have discovered large numbers of mounds containing kists and relics of inhumation. Of these Mr. Laing says — " The rocky coasts and commanding heights are not more thickly studded with the strongholds of Scandinavian pirates and mediaeval barons, than are the shores and straths with large conical mounds, showing traces of concentric walls, which are in all probability the ruins of burghs or circular towers. In addition there are numerous chambered cairns and Picts' houses, and barrows or sej)ulchral tumuli of various forms and dimensions. There are also many traces of hut-circles, and other pre-historic dwellings, of a humbler class than the circular burgh ; and numerous shell-middens, or refuse-heaps of the food of the ancient inhabitants, are found in connection with their dwellings." 2. The Burghs, or Picts^ Houses, as some call them, are involved in very much the same obscurity as to date as the last-named antiqui- ties, some archpeologists attributing them to Celts, others to Scandi- navians. The probability is that they were anterior to either of them, although used by the different races of inhabitants, who found them ready to hand, for dwelling, storing, or burying pur- poses. But it appears more likely that they were of earlier date, not- withstanding the smoothness and regularity of the buildings them- selves, which would seem to point to the work of a more civilised people. Scandinavian authorities declare that nothing like them was ever found in those countries. Wilson, in his "Pre-historic Scotland," considers them to be long prior to the earliest recorded Scandinavian invasion ; and ]\Ir. Geo. Petre discovered in a burgh in the parish of Scotland. II. Antiquities. [19] Birsay, in Orkney, contents of a similar character to those in the mounds. To the same date we may assign — • 3. Circles, which, altliough not very abundant, show more or less evidences of size and importance, and were most likely the great centres of religious and (probably) legislative ceremonies. A curious feature in connection witli these remains is, that the largest circles are usually found in the islands, such as Stennis in Orkney, and Tormore in Arran, which seems to point to the conclusion that these " trysting-places " were generally established where they could over- look large bodies of water. It is worth noticing that the cromlech in Wales and Ireland is almost always placed in a similar position. II. Early Historic Remains. — 1. Amongst the very earliest of these we should be disj)osed to class the Round Totvers, which, though common enough in Ireland, are represented by two examples only in Scotland — Brechin and Abernethy. Their uses, as described by the late Dr. Petrie in his erudite work on " Irish Round Towers," seem to have been those of providing places of safety and defence for the ecclesiastical buildings and treasures in their neighbourhood, as well as of the population gathered around. Their date varies from the 8th to the 12th centuries, and it seems probable that those of Scotland are of the later class. 2. Memorial Stones are of two sorts — the plain slab used to commemorate some interment or some event, and generally known as a " stele." Sometimes, however, they are used for purposes of demarcation, as in the AVelsh " maenhir." The inscribed stone varies very much in its character, from the simple name which it was intended to commemorate, to the most elaborate ornamentation and device of sculpture. Of the latter, Sweno's Stone, near Forres, is a good example. 3. Crosses likewise exhibit a great diversity of character, from the plain cross to the sculptured. But very few are now left in Scotland, and these cannot vie in comparison with those of Ireland. The most perfect are those of lona, Campbeltown, and Inveraray. 4. Of Dykes and Roads there are likewise very few remains, what there are being, limited to the south. They include the Catrail or Picts' Dyke across the Cheviots, and the Devil's Dyke in Dumfries- shire, both early British works. Of a later date is the Roman wall of Antoninus, extending from the Forth to the Clyde, also the Roman road from Nithsdale to Elvanfoot. 5. The Cami^s are nearly all Roman. The number of Roman camps is very great, greater it is said than in all the rest of Europe, and denotes the arduous nature of the struggle with the natives, and its long duration. They stretch as far N. as Aberdeen and Inver- [20] 11. AntiqidUes. Inteod. ness-sliire, but are most numerous in the comparatively flat districts, at the foot of the Grampians, Strathearn, Strathmore, and Strathallan, The arrangements of most of them are decidedly Koman, as are also their names, such as Caerlee, Chesters, etc. Ardoch camp is the most perfect, not only in Scotland but in the British isles. While on the subject of defences we must not omit mention of those singular vitrified forts which are ascribed to the Danes. Dun- jardil, in Glen Nevis (easily accessible) ; Ivnockfarril, near Dingwall ; Craig Phadrick, near Inverness ; and Dmiskeig, in Cantyre, are the best preserved and most interesting examples. It will not escape notice that they generally occupy projecting and isolated heights, suited for beacons or bale-fires, which in ancient times served the purpose of telegrams to give notice of foreign invasion. The action of fire on the stone heaps upon which the fires were lighted may in course of ages have caused the vitrification of these stone heaps. Some antiquaries believe these so-called forts to have been merely enclosures for cattle. III. Ecclesiastical Remains in Scotland cannot well be judged by the same rules that apj^ly to similar remains in England. " Though so near a neighbour, and so mixed up with England in all the relations of war and peace, the Scotch never borrowed willingly from the English, but, owing probably to the Celtic element in the population, all their affinities and predilections were for continental nations, and especially for France. So completely is this the case, that there is scarcely a single building in the country that would not look anomalous and out of place in England ; and though it is true that the edifices are not entirely French in design, the whole taste and character of them is continental, though wrought out in a bolder and generally in a simpler and ruder fashion than the corre- sponding examples in other countries." — Fergusson. The consequence is, that, in addition to the foreign admixture of style, the very date of the various styles in Scotland is long subsequent to the pre- valence of the same style farther south. Thus, in the 12th century (reign of David I.), when the pointed arch was in use in the South, we find the round arch in full vigour in the North ; and when the Scotch adopted the E. E. lanc&t window, they were so pleased with it that they did not give it up, but continued to use it long after tlie Dec. and even the Perp. styles prevailed in England. Of all the architectural styles the one most prevalent is that of the Eomanesque, sometimes of the simple round- arched character, but more frequently combined with the richest and most extravagant ornamentation. The styles of the several periods are not so definitely marked off from each other in Scotland Scotland. ^ III. Geology. [21] as in England, a great mixture of styles being often observable, e.g. the round-headed arch is often found in early pointed buildings with mouldings of that date. The real Decorated features are very scarce, and what does remain of it is associated with the Flamboyant character prevalent on the Continent. Of Perp. churches, Melrose is almost the only example ; and even this, Mr. Fergusson observes, is more of a foreign than of English type. Eoslin, which is of the date of the 15th century, is apparently foreign in conception and execution, and there is little doubt that the architects and builders came from Portugal or Spain. Remarkable features in many of the ecclesiastical buildings in Scotland are the bold and perfect vaults or crypts, which often retain beauti- ful specimens of moulding, although the vaulting itself, as comj)ared with those in England, is poor and weak. IV. Castles and Towers. — Of the latter there are numerous examples, almost all of the same rude and simple type of Border or Peel towers, in which strength, and the greatest capability of defence, with a small number in garrison, seem to have been the desideratum. A chain of these towers runs along the Borders. Of the former many are very fine and extensive, and show that they were not merely limited to purposes of warfare but served also as places of residence. " Scotland is, generally speaking, very deficient in objects of civil or domestic architecture belonging to the middle ages. Of her palaces, Holyrood has been almost rebuilt in the reign of Charles I., and Edinburgh Castle entirely remodelled. Stirling still retains some fragments of ancient art, and Falkland passes into rich and fantastic Renaissance." But of Mansions, many of them still inhabited, there are many noble examples, presenting a singular style which is very peculiar to Scotland, and strongly indicates the French tendency. As the architectural features are described under each example, it will not be necessary to enter here into greater detail. III. Geology. On a subject, such as the Geology of Scotland, on which volumes have been written, it is obvious that only the merest outline can be furnished in a handbook, but as there is a growing tendency amongst tourists to combine the picturesque and the scientific, we cannot do better than recommend Geikie's " Scenery of Scotland " as a travel- ling companion, together with the geological sketch map compiled by him and Sir R. Murchison. Commencing at the most superficial and modern deposits, are [22] III. Geology. Introd. A. Recent, in which we may include — 1. Peat mosses and Pre-lustorlc Forests. — Peat mosses are generally thonght to have been of compara- tively modern date, on account of the frequent discovery of remains proved to be Roman, though they are believed with some probability to belong to the earlier period known as the Bronze. The mosses, physically speaking, are interesting from their rapid formation and the consequent alteration of the face of the country, and because they mark the site of lochs and tarns, as w^ell as of ancient and pre-historic forests. Many of the mosses, which were so dreary, and characteristic of the district, have been drained and recovered by the husbandman, while others have died out, so to speak, and finished growing, covering the rugged and treacherous-looking surface with the appearances known as " moss-hags." 2. Post-Glacial Traces, by which we mean those evidences of upheaval which took place subse- Cjuent to the submergence of the glacial epoch. Eaised beaches are the practical result of this upheaval, and the observer may find ample proofs of tliis all round the E. and W. coast of Scotland, at a height of 20 to 25 feet above the present sea margin, and varying in breadth from a few feet to several miles. " This old or upraised beach runs as a terrace along the margin of the Firth of Forth ; it forms the broad carse of Falkirk and of Gowrie, it is visible in sheltered bays along the exposed coasts of Forfar, Perth, Kincardine, Aberdeen, and westwards along the Moray Firth. On the Atlantic side of the island its low green platform borders both sides of the Firth of Clyde, fringes the islands, runs up the river beyond Glasgow, and wdnds southwards along the coast of Ayrshire and Wigtown into the Irish Channel." — Geilde. Glasgow itself is built upon just such a terrace, and from the silt and sand of which it consists there have been taken out at different times as many as 18 canoes, the details of which prove that even those early inhabitants understood the use of iron. B. Glacial. — The effects of the great glacial epoch are found both amidst the rugged mountains of the north and the Lowlands of the south, though with different results. In the Highlands we find in every lofty chain of hills the striations and groovings w^hich mark the passage of the glacier into more open regions, w^hile many a tarn and mountain lake shows the artificial-looking embankment or massive heap which the glacier has left in its downward course. Mr. Geikie proves that the great glaciers of the north descended into Strath more with such irresist- ible pressure as to have mounted over the Ochils and Sidlaws and to settle in the basin of the Forth, while the southern uplands also Scotland. III. Geology. [23] contributed their quota to the general glaciation. The result has been the covering of the Lowlands with a thick layer of " till " or boulder clay, which is divided into two portions, indicating different periods of the glacial era. Among deposits of this epoch we may place tlie brick-earth beds w^hich are found on the shores of the Clyde, and which contain shells of an arctic type. C. Tertiary. — The Volcanic Islands of the Inner Hebrides (Mull, Skye, Eigg), etc., consist chiefly of sheets of basalt with intercalated seams of coal and leaf-beds. These rocks, as well as the correspond- ing plateau of Antrim, have been ascertained to belong to the Miocene period. "Among the leaf-beds of Mull occur well-preserved leaves of various dicotyledonous plants, similar to those found among the Miocene rocks of Switzerland." — A. G. D. The next highest formation in Scotland is that of the Oolitic series, which presents unusual interest from its proximity to older re- mains, and from its being itself so much traversed by volcanic rocks of the Tertiary age. It is found in very few and detached spots, in- variably on the coast, where, from the comparative richness of the soil, it presents a marked contrast w^ith the rugged barriers of con- glomerate and Cambrian mountains that bound it inland. The oolitic localities are on the E. coast of Sutherlandshire, from Dun- robin to Helmsdale. At Brora, about midway between these two places, these measures are peculiarly interesting from including a bed of coal of the age of the inferior oolite, and considered to be the equivalent of the Yorkshire oolitic coal. The principal seam is 3 ft. 8 in. thick, and of very large productive powers. On the W. coast we find the Isle of Skye almost entirely com- posed of rocks of the oolitic age, although nine-tenths of it is oolitic greenstone, with occasional thin beds of oolitic and Oxford clay, run- ning the length of the island from N. to S, In the narrowest portion of Skye, between Broadford and Loch Eishart, the oolite and lias are well developed and rich in fossils. The rocks and precipices on the W. coast of Loch Slapin consist of oolitic sandstone, w^orn into caves and capped by greenstone. To the N. of Broadford, part of the island of Eaasay and the whole of Pabbay are oolitic, and are extra- ordinarily rich in fossils. To the S. of Skye is the island of Eigg, the most striking example of denudation in the British Isles, whose oolite strata are overlaid by volcanic rocks of the Tertiary age. The coasts of Mull and Morven, too, exhibit patches of measures of the same date. At Loch Aline, just above the sea-level, are lias rocks containing 24] III. Geology. Introd. Gry^yhcEa incurva, and covered by thick masses of tabular basalt, as is also the case on the E. coast of Mull, and on the W. coast, near Loch-na-Keal. E. Triassic, or Nm Red Sandstone. — A band of rocks some 6 miles in width extends over the Moray coast from Buckie to Burg- head. Sir Chas. Lyell and Kev. W. Symond believe them to be of Triassic date, while others class them as upper Old Bed beds. There is, however, no doubt but that they are reptiliferous, and at Elgin and Lossiemouth have yielded the remains of that singular reptile the Hyperodapedon (Telerpeton) Elginense. F. The Permian Rocks also are very scanty, and are confined to a few patches in the south, which are found occupying the valleys of the Annan as far as Moffat, and the Nith above Thornhill. They are again seen to the W., lining the W. coast of Loch Byan, and forming the central part of the Ayrshire coal-field. In all cases they are found mottling the surface of the Silurian deposits, show- ing that the Old Bed and Carboniferous beds must have been denuded before the Bermian era. In Nithsdale and Ayrshire Mr. Geikie has found that the Bermian rocks contain contemporaneous volcanic masses, and thus that active volcanoes were scattered over the S.W. of Scotland during the Bermian period. The geologist may study them best above Dumfries, and in the valley of the Annan at Corncockle Quarry, where the late Dr. Duncan of Buthwell and Sir W. Jardine found footmarks of gigantic crustaceans ; also overlying the Carboniferous beds in the neighbour- hood of the Liddel, near Biddings Junction and Canonbie, although Mr. Binney believes that these Bed rocks, as they are called, belong to the upper carboniferous series rather than to the Bermian. G. Carboniferous. — We come now to what we may call the principal formations of which Scotland is composed, and which the student of a geological map will observe follow each other in a certain parallel sequence. The Carboniferous system of Scotland is very extensive, and has this singular difference from those of England and Wales, viz , that most of the coal-beds are referable to the age of carboniferous limestone, and not (although there are a few) to the true coal-bear- ing strata. Instead of the solid beds of limestone, characteristic of the centre of England, we find in Scotland a thick series of sand- stone, shales, blackband ironstones, and coal seams, with occasional beds of marine limestone containing fossils of the Carboniferous Limestone period. Scotland. III. Geology. [25] The true coal-bearing beds lie in 4 or 5 basins, and consist of — 1. Basin of the Clyde, which extends from Renfrewshire to Linlithgow, and is prolonged northwards into Clackmannan, the beds of which are separated by an uprising of lower Carlioniferous rocks. It is about 4000 feet in depth, and contains 12 seams of workable coal and 9 of ironstone, which sufficiently accounts for the fiery atmosphere of Lanarkshire. Amongst these beds of coal is the celebrated Boghead or Torbane Hill mine, which gave rise to so much litigation, and which has proved such a fortune to the lessee (Rte. 14). 2. The Midlothian basin lies in a double triangle, part of which is in the county of Edinburgh and part in Haddington. It is about 64 square miles in area, and contains upwards of 60 beds of coal of more or less thickness. 3. The Ayrshire field stretches from Ardrossan to Ayr, and is only divided from the Lanarkshire field by a ridge of trap rocks of Lower Carboniferous age. 4. The Fifeshire basin is excessively disturbed by faults and igneous rocks, although at the same time it is very productive, and contains 29 beds of workable coal of 120 ft. in thickness. Indeed the Avhole of the Carboniferous measures are intimately associated with igneous rocks, both contemporaneous and intrusive, but we will say more of these at the end of this section. Taken as a whole, this group may be divided in the following manner : — " Upper or flat coal = English coal measures. Moor rock or Roslyn ] = Millstone grit and upper lime- sandstone j stone shale. Lower or edge coal |^ Carboniferous limestone J Calciferous sandstone. = Lower limestone shale. The latter occur in their greatest development in the eastern part of the great central basin of the country, and thin out rapidly to the S.W., so that in Lanarkshire and Ayrshire they are in many places wholly wanting, and the carboniferous limestones rest directly on the felstones and sandstones of the Old Red group." — Sir R. Murchison.' The fossil collector will find much to interest him in the ferns, shells, and fish remains of the Lanarkshire basin, and in the Burdie- house freshwater limestone fishes of the Lothian field (Rte. 1 6). H. The Old Red Sandstone forms one of the most important and interesting geological divisions in the country, principally from the extraordinary number of typical fossils, such as fishes and crustaceans. [Scotia, id. ^ b 2 Carboniferous limestone. [2G] III. Geology. - Introd. The genius of Hugli Miller has made the Old Red of Scotland classic ground, and it is impossible to read his works without feeling a strong interest, almost amounting to fascination. This group is divided into 3 great series — 1. The Upper Old Red (yellow and red sandstones), 2. Middle, or Caithness flags. 3. Lower, or Forfarshire flagstones. Of these the middle are found only in the north of Scotland, there heing " in the south a great hiatus below the upper member of the formation, which shades up into the Carboniferous, and rests quite nnconformably npon the Lower Old Red Sandstone, the middle portion not having been satisfactorily established to the south of the Grampians." 1. The UiiiJer Old Bed deposits are found in a narrow strip on the southern flanks of the Ochils, running from Loch Leven to Cupar and St. Andrews. To the south they disappear under the lower Carboniferous rocks, but reappear again in Haddingtonshire and Berwickshire, graduating by imperceptible stages into the lower Carboniferous sandstones, and "lying in bays along the northern edge of the Lammermuirs, capping their summit south of Fala, and ascending from the low grounds of the Tweed up the valley of the Leader." It is evident from their fragmentary condition that denudation has been very active here, and that the Upper Old Red formerly covered the whole of the district. The geologist will find it to liis account to visit the neighbourhood of Cupar and Dura Den. In the north we find the interval between Lossiemouth, Elgin, and Burghead occupied by reptiliferous rocks {Telerpeton Elginense), which most geologists have ascribed to Upper Old Red date, though others consider them as Triassic (p. 24.) A small patch, also containing impressions of tracks, is found on the opposite coast, at Tarbet Ness. 2. The middle division, or Caithness flags, is absent in the S., and in fact, as far as we know, is limited to two-thirds of the county of Caithness, and a long narrow strip on the S. coast of the Moray Firth from Inverness to Burghead. The Caithness flags are particularly full of bitumen, and are moreover highly charged with fossil fish, principally of the genus Coccosteus, and in some places with land plants. 3. The Loive?' Old Red is the most extensive in the series, and is found principally in an area forming a broad line of demarcation between the gneiss of the Highlands and the trap and igneous Scotland. III. Geology. [27] district of tlie Lowland valley. If we draw a line from the coast of Kincardine to Cantyre on tlie N., and from Dumbarton to a little above Cupar on the S., we find that it will mark out tins Lower Old Red area. The following general section is of the Old Red in the Forfarshire district, where it is upwards of 3000 feet thick. a. Dark red grits = English tilestones. h. Thick conglomerates and Arbroath paving flags, containing Pterignotus, etc. c. Thick bedded red sandstone. d. Soft deep red sandstone. e. Spotted marles and shales. In the N. we find the Lower Old Red skirting in a broken and interrupted manner the E. coast of Ross and Sutherland, and occupying one-third of the western portion of Caithness. Thence a narrow strip occupies the northern shores of the Moray Firth, and runs down to accompany the Caledonian Canal, where it terminates in the bold dome of Mealfourvournie. "Again, along the northern shores patches of the same kind are found from the borders of Caithness to Roan Island, sometimes in little outliers standing high among the inland hills. Hence it must be inferred that a large part, if not the whole of the county of Sutherland, was once covered with a sheet of Old Red conglomerate." — GeiJcie. In the S. there is a patch of Lower Old Red between Kilmarnock and Lanark. Here, and particularly at Lesmahagow, it is intimately associated with. I. The Upper Silurian, both series being traversed by numbers of felstone dykes. They are disposed in long rolling folds, the Silurian strata forming the axis of each anticlinal. The upper Silurian rocks are absent in the North Highlands, and are found in the S. only at Lesmahagow, in the Pentland Hills, and occupying a small area in Kirkcudbright, extending from "Wigtown Bay across the Dee to the mouth of the IJrr. J. The Loiver Silurian of south Scotland, with its slates and limestones, occupies the greater portion of the Southern Highlands, being bounded on the N. by a tolerably regular line from Dunbar to Girvan. Sir R. Murchison remarks that it may be regarded as bent into a great arch, the centre of which runs from S.W. to N.E., passing to the S. of the town of Moffat. South of this line the strata dip to the S.E., while on the N.E. they are flanked uncon- formably by the Old Red and carboniferous rocks. Although the [28] III. Geology. Introd. lower Silurian strata of the S. have not suffered metamorphosis in the same manner as they have in the N., they have yet undergone much folding and squeezing. The geologist will see in AVigtowTi, or the cliffs of Berwick, "the hard greywacke and shales bent into great arclies and troughs, or squeezed into little puckerings, and will be able to trace these plications following each other from top to bottom mile after mile along the coast.'' — Geilde. In the North Highlands eight-tenths of the rocks consist of lower Silurian strata, metamorphosed into clay, chlorite and mica slate, and gneissose rocks, based on qnartzose, flagstones, and associated lime- stones. From the Cambrians of the W. coast to the great Glen is a great series of anticlinal and synclinal curves, whereby the same system of altered rocks which occur on the N.W. is repeated on itself. " The chain of lakes that stretches from Inverness to Oban is therefore an anticlinal axis, broken through by a coincident line of fault." From here the limestones and cjuartz rocks are thrown off to the E., and are surmounted by a conformable mass of quartzose and gneissose strata. An anticlinal of quartzose rocks rises from under Loch Leven to the S.E., and runs through the Breadalbane Forest into Glen Lyon, where it sinks below the upper gneissose strata with their associated limestones. Ben Lawers occupies the synclinal formed by these upper strata. Professor Jameson shows that the Silurians of the S.W. Highlands have also been thrown into great undulations with an anticlinal axis extending from the N. of Cantyre through Cowal, and] by the bend of Loch Riden to Loch Eck and Loch Lomond. The E. coast from Stonehaven to Aberdeen affords an interesting illustration of the structure of the Grampians. The Old Red of Stonehaven is succeeded by the clay slates of Carron Point, and then by mica slate and gneiss, aU of them frequently traversed by dykes of trap, porphyry, quartz, and granite. The limestones of Sutherlandshire, which lie at the base of the lower Silurian, prove from the nature of their fossils the identity of these rocks with the calciferous sand rocks of N. America. These limestones, with their associated quartz rocks, rest uncon- formably on K. The Cambrian strata, which consist of brownish red sand- stones and conglomerates, resting on the convoluted edges of the older gneiss. The W. coast of Ross, extending from the Applecross district to Torridon, Poolewe, Loch Maree, and thence into Suther- land as far as Loch Enard, are the localities where the Cambrian rocks are principally developed, in addition to a patch on the island of Rum. Underneath these strata lies Scotland. III. Geology. [29] L, Thid fundamental gneiss, also called Laurentian gneiss, as being tlie equivalent of that system in Nortli America and the oldest known rocks. It has a strike from S.E. to N.W., beiug at right angles to all the other superjacent deposits. These rocks are found occupying a small space on either side Loch ]\Iaree, on the N, shores of which they contain a band of limestone, and farther N. occupying the W. coast of Sutherland, occasionally capped by the Cambrian, as at Queenaig near Inchnadamff. * Lewis, the Outer Hebrides, Coll, and Tiree are also composed of the Laurentian gneiss. M. In closing this brief notice of the Geology of Scotland, a few words must be said of the igneous and intrusive rocks which go so far in making up the accessories of Scotch scenery. Granite (unless indeed Mr. Geikie is right in believing that it is not an igneous rock at all, but only a farther development of metamorphosis) is found rising up amongst the highest mountain groups, such as Ben Nevis, where it is pierced by porphyry, the Cairngorms, Ben Alder, Ben Dearig, Ben Laoghal, the Hill of Ord, Ben Cruachan, Goatfell, etc. But it is not only in the very lofty hills that granite is observed, but sometimes in comparatively low grounds, such as are seen in the N. of Aberdeenshire, and in the lonely moor of Rannoch, The Old Eed igneous rocks consist of Felspathic rocks, porphyries, and inter- stratified ashes, such as form the Sidlaw, Ochil, and Pentland Hills. The Carboniferous igneous rocks of contemporaneous date are principally found in the Lothians, such as Arthur's Seat and the Bathgate Hills ; while for intrusive rocks we may specify Stirling Rock, Castle Rock of Edinburgh, etc. Permian Rochs occur, as already stated, in Xithsdale and Ayr- sliire. The Tertiary volcanic Rocks of Scotland are seen along the line of the Inner Hebrides, and from Antrim northwards. They reappear in the Faroe Islands and even in Iceland. Appended is a list of some of the most interesting spots to the geologist and fossil collector : — Post- Tertiary. — Bute, Paisley, Dalniuir, Tignabruaich. — Arctic shells. Tertiary. — Ardtun, Mull : Leaf -heels. Oolitic. — Skye, Pabba : Liassic fossils. Helmsdale and Brora : Plants. Trias 1 — Elgin : Hyperodapedon {Telerp)eton), Elginense. Permian. — Valley of Nith, Corncockle Muir Quarry, Annandale : Foot- marks of Reptiles. Carboniferous. — Boghead, Torbane Hill mineral. Lanarkshire basin ; Coal-plants, shells, brachiopoda of the limestone. Lothian basin : Fishes of Burdiehouse limestone. CarhoniferoiLs.—Axvax\. : Trees preserved in trap. Upper Old Pi.ed. — Dura Den : Fishes. — Phaneropleuron Andersoni, Glyptoloenius Kinnairdii, Holoptychius Andersoni. Cromarty : Diplacan- 30 Route 3. — St. Bosicells to Beston — Dunse. Sect. I. 4| m. Earlston Stat., celebrated as the residence of Thomas of Ercil- doun, otherwise known as Thomas the Rhymer, in whose prophecies the whole country side once put implicit faith. He was born in the reign of Alexander II., and was contemporary with Wallace. It was the general belief that he was carried away by the Queen of the Elfins, into the interior of the Eiltlon Hills (Rte. 1.). The Rhymer's Tower is to be seen at the W. end of the village, close to the river. In the neighbourhood of Earlston are Coicdenknovjcs (R. Cotesworth, Esq.), the scene of Robert Craw- ford's ballad, "The Bonnie Broom," and Carolside (A. Mitchell, Esq.). lOg m. Gordon Stat, 5 m. to the N. of which, near the village of Westruther, is Spottiswood, the seat of Lady John Scott. The parish contains the old border tower of Evelaw and some earthworks. 14| m. Greenlaiv Stat., though the county town of Berwick, does not possess the slightest interest for the tourist. It is situated on the banks of the Blackadder. The geo- logist will find at JBedshicI, 2 m. to the N. of Greenlaw, an example of "kaim," which Mr Milne-Home believes to have been formed of marine shingle when the land was at a lower level than at present. It consists of elongated ridges of sand and gravel, distinctly stratified, from 30 to 60 ft, high, and extending for about 3 m., and appears more like defensive works than natural results. The ruins of Hume Castle, the former stronghold of the Earls of Home, are 3 m. to the S., and are worth visiting for the magnificent view over the Merse district (see above). 18, m. Marclimont Stat., near which is Marchmont House, the seat of Sir Hugh Hume-Campbell, Bart., con- taining a fine collection of paintings. Those best worth attention are — Philip baptizing the Eunuch, Cuyp : Forest Scene, Euysdael, "fine and very uncommon in composition ; " Corps de Garde, Tenters ; portrait of Don Livio Odescalchi, Vondyck ; Forest Scene, Wynants ; Ships in distress, Vandervelde. In the family burial vault under Polwarth Ch., within the Park, Sir Patrick Hume, an adherent of Argyle in 1685, was concealed for a month in the dark, sleeping on a mattress stealthily conveyed from the house, and fed by his daughter Grisel, who repaired to him at midnight with supplies, unknown to any one but her mother. The house meanwhile was frequently searched by the soldiers of James II. Sir Pati'ick eventually escaped to Holland. 21 1 m. DiTNSE Stat, after Berwick the largest town in Berwickshire {Inn : White Swan), claims the honour of being the birthplace of Duns Scotus, the schoolman. It is certain that Dr Thos. M'Crie, bio- grapher of John Knox, and Thos. Boston ("Fourfold State"), were natives. It is of some importance as a cattle, horse, and sheep market, standing at the foot of the Lammer- muir Hills, and at the base of Dunse Law, on the summit of which there is a camp : from this hill or Dun no doubt it gets its name. There is a neat E'piscojyal Cliapel at Dunse. 1 m. from Dunse is Rodes Castle, said by some to be the scene of the ballad "Adam o' Gordon." Dunse Castle (Col. Hay) is a spacious and handsome building, overlooking the town on the AV. , and includes the old tower built by Ran- dolph Earl of Mora3\ On the S. is Wedderhurn Castle (D. Milne-Home, Esq.), a stately mansion of Grecian architecture. Also Nishet House (Lord Sinclair), Rimmerghame House (A. Campbell Swinton, Esq.), a handsome modern mansion (Bryce, J S. Scotland. Route 4. — Berwick to Edinburgh. 31 archt.), and Langton House (Lady Elizabeth Pringle) (also by Bryce), begun by the late Marquis of Breadal- bane, contains a collection of family pictures, some of them portraits by Jameson. ' ' On the N". side of Cockburn Law, about 3 m. X. fromDunse, and about a mile E. from Abbey St. Bathans, are the interesting remains of an ancient building of unhewn and un- cemented stones called Ediiishall. It is circular in shape, and about 90 ft. in diameter : the wall varies in thickness from 15 to 20 ft. It is surrounded by ditches and ramparts of earth and stone, and there are trenches round the top of the hill on Avhich it stands." — Oliver. On the other side of Cockburn Law is Priestlaiv, where a convent once stood. The Fassiiey Water here flows over some rock sections of great interest to the geologist, as they show the manner in which the gra- nite and greywacke shale of the Lammermuirs are related to each other. Distances. — To Greenlaw, 7\ m. ; Coldstream, I04 ; Berwick, I84. Dunse is a good fishing station for the upper waters of the Whitadder, whicli flows about 3 m. to the N. The angler should go up to Abbey St, Bathans and the Cottage, where he will get sport. Trout run from 4 lb. to 14. Passing left, Mander- ston House ("W. Miller, Esq.), the train reaches 25 m. Edrom Stat., which is pro- bably a corruption of Adderham, from adder or didi&x = awedur (Cam. Brit.) = running water, and ham (Ang.-Sax. ) = a home or village, ^ot far from Edrom is Broom House (G. Logan Home, Esq.), a modern cas- tellated building, erected on the site of the old fortress, burnt by the Eng- lish under Lord Evers. The river is crossed at 26^ m. Chirnside' Stat. The village is 1 m. to the right, and con- tains a tine old ch. of the 15th centy. in good repair. Nincioells House, was the family residence of Hume the historian. 29 m. Eestox Junction (Rta 4.). ROUTE 4. Berwick to Edinburgh, by Cold- ingham, Dunbar [North Ber- wick], Haddington, Preston- pans, and Musselburgh.,— North British Rly. (coast line). 574 m. 10 trains daily, in Ij to 21 hrs. The traveller from the S. cannot fail to be struck with the first view of Scotland after passing Tweed- mouth. The rly. is carried high up on the hills bounding the valley of the Tweed, so that you look down upon the river, its junction with the sea, and the town on its N. bank. The rly. clears the valley, still main- taining its elevation, by Robert Stephenson's noble viaduct of 28 arches in a curve, 126 ft. high, and nearly \ mile long (cost £120,000), leading into Berivick Junct. Station, occupy- ing the site of the ancient historic Castle, which it has nearly erased, only a few fragments of walls and towers remaining on the steep slope running down towards the Tweed. The view from the edge of the river and viaduct is striking. Berwick-on-Tioeed {Inns: Red Lion, King's Arms.) Berwick, from its position on the frontier of England and Scotland, was for ages the most important for- tress in the N., the object of con.stant struggles between the two nations, and the scene of great events. The most remarkable of these were the sieges by Edward I., 1296, when the [32] V. Hints for Yachtsmen in the Hebrides. Introd. There is good anchorage not far from Millport, on the E. side of the Cumbrae, at the ferry-house. A new pier has been built here. GourocL On the E, shore of the Clyde going N., the best place for anchorage is Gourock Bay. This place is more frequented by yachts than any other ; but strangers visiting the Clyde will find Eow more convenient and less disagreeable, — less crowded at the end of the week. RouK Row, on the Gairloch, is well sheltered and quiet. The scene is enlivened by the villas on the N. shore, and beautified by the woods of Roseneath Castle, which come down to the water's edge. Row is close to Helensburgh, wdiere there is a station of the N. British Railway, and from which numerous excursions can be made, as the railway is worked in connection with the trains to Edinburgh and Perth, and with the steamers on Loch Lomond. A steamer sails from Helensburgh to meet the " lona," and there is constant communication with Greenock. Yachts can be headed alongside Row Quay, or Clynder Pier on the Roseneath side. Lochs Goil and Lovg. These lochs are rather tedious for yachts to ascend, the wind generally blowing either up or down, and the water being so deep that an anchorage can only be got at the top of each. Kyles of Bute. This passage is of eas}^ navigation, except at the Burnt Islands. There the passage that should be taken is the S. one, as it alone is buoyed. It can easily be taken, with the help of the chart No. 2174, price Is. 6d. It is not advisable for a stranger to attempt to go through against wdnd and tide. . Rothesay and Port Bannatyne are good anchorages, but for a yacht the pleasantest place is to the W. of Colintraive Pier. Loch Fyne. On the W. we have E. Tarbert. The loch is a small Imsin, generally full of herring boats, and should not be entered. If the weather is good, an anchorage may be taken to the S. of the pier off a small pebble bay. Ardrishaiy. The anchorage is good, though there are rocks in the bay. Boats are charged Is. as dues for landing at the pier, but this covers the whole stay of the yacht. Yachts of small tonnage can be taken through the Crinan Canal. Inquiry should be made as to the state of the water in the canal, as in a dry summer it becomes very low. One of the best anchorages in the loch is the N. side of the Otter Spit. There are anchorages almost anywhere along the sides above the Otter Spit. At Inveraray beware of anchor- ing where the bottom consists of sand run down by the river ; also beware of a spit further down the loch than the qua}^ Mull of Kintyre to Caioe Wrath. The first places to rest at going Scotland. Y. Yachts on West Coast of Scotland. [33] N. are Lowlandman's Bay in Jura or Gigha. Giglia is not easy for a stranger to take. It is unsafe to go between Gigha and the main- land. The flood tide runs to the westward through Corryvrechan, so when sailing past with light winds care must be taken to keep well to the E. Crinan is not a good anchorage, except in- settled weather. In going through the narrows at the Slate Islands, called also Scarha Sound, it is necessary to watch the tide. Should a vessel not have a commanding breeze, a tide can be waited for at Blach Mill Bay in going N., but coming S. there is no good anchorage out- side the Sound nearer than Kerrera. Vessels going N. have all along the coast a great advantage over vessels going S., as the tide is always later the farther N. you go. Ohan. The water is very deep. Fresh butcher's meat and sup- plies of all kinds can be procured here. Loch Leven. A few pleasant days can be spent here, visiting Glencoe and Loch Leven. Vessels of any size cannot go through the second narrows, but a boat excursion can be made to the Smoudie Falls and the Serpent Water. Sound of Mull. Loch Aline is a pleasant wooded loch. The entrance is narrow, and the tide runs strongly. The whole loch is seen from the entrance, at least as much as can be seen of it from a yacht's deck. Tobermory. A dull place — trout-fishing in Loch Risca. This harbour is much frequented by yachts and coasters, as in summer ; the wind often falls light at sun set,, and if it be near evening, vessels require to give Ardnamurchan a wide berth, on account of the con- stant swell coming in. Provisions can be got here. There is a postal telegraph office. Loch Sunart. A very long loch, but worth going up to Strontian. Staffa. The tourists by the steamer see almost all that is worth seeing, and a little is to be gained by going by boat. The view from the summit of Staffa is hardly equal to the view from Dun Eg, in lona. The only objects missed by steamboat tourists are a fine group of pillars at the N. end, and the two caves west of Fingal's cave. Jona. The tide runs very strongly between lona and Mull. The sea fishing at lona is very good. All sailing yachts should come to lona from the N., and if of large tonnage should lie-to off the sandy beach at the N.E. end of the island, taking care always to keep to the N. of and clear of the sandbank which lies off the Cathedral. There is less swell off the N.E. end of the island than anywhere else, so a vessel can lie-to here, and at night go for shelter to Loch Laich, or to Seribly Bay on the N. side of Ulva Isle in Loch Tuadh. [Scotland.] C 1 [34] Y. Hints for Yachtsmen in the Hehides. Introd. The chart of the Sound of Mull (2155) contains Loch Tuadh, and with it and No. 2617 it is quite safe to visit lona ; in fact, the chart of lona is the best guide to the island, as it gives an accurate plan of the whole of it. There are so many rocks to the S.W. of Mull that it is rash for a yacht to go to lona by the S. coast of Mull. For yachts under fifty tons a good and safe but confined anchor- age can be got in a narrow arm of the sea on the Mull shore opposite the Cathedral. It is called Bull's Hole or Port Dearg. The shelter is complete, but difficulty might be experienced in getting out should the wind come in from the S.W. From Port Dearg there is a passage out by the N. ; to go this way it would be necessary to mark very carefully the rocks at low tide. The tide runs strong in the Bull's Hole. The bottom is beautiful sand. The rocks around are of the warm red granite of the Ross of Mull. Eiqg. Not easy to land, and no anchorage. Rum. The anchorage is in Loch Scresort, which is sheltered from the prevailing winds, and though open to the N.E., the swell is broken by a spit which runs out from the S. head of the loch. This is a good j)lace to lie in all night, if you wish to run down to Loch Scavaig, so as to be there early in the day, and if you do not wish to sail all night. Rum is very wet and squally, and the weather is often much better outside than you would imagine it to be from what you ex- perience at the anchorage. Loch Nevis. The best anchorage is Tarbet, a creek on the S. side of the narrows. The tide runs very rapidly through the narrows. Loch Iloimi. This loch is quite worth going up, as it is not by any means at all well seen from the entrance. From its tortuous- ness this loch never has a tame view looking out to sea, and even if it were, as far as its own sides are concerned, it never could be en- tirely so, as its mouth is crossed by the Coollin ranges, when looking out to sea. It is subject to sudden squalls, and is a narrow dark loch. The best way to see it is to take the vessel to Barrisdale Bay, and from thence to make an excursion by boat to the top, or else to ■vvalk to the top by the road which runs along the southern shore. It is worth while to go quite to the top of Little Loch Hourn. There are four narrows in this Loch above the Coir Islands, and although large yachts go through them, all except the last, into Little Loch Hourn, yet it is very unadvisable in case of delay, as no vessel could safely beat through the narrows against wind and tide. , Isle Oransay. Isle Oransay, on the Skye side of the Sound of Sleat, is the usual anchorage for traders and yachts, being very safe Scotland. V. Yachts on West Coast of Scotland. [35] and having a lighthouse at its entrance. It is, however, uninterest- ing, being too much under the land to afford a view of the Coollin range, and yachts should rather cross over to Loch Hourn, if the weather be fine enough to see the hills. The delay will be amply recompensed by the scenery. SJcye. Lock Alsh. No vessels should attempt to go against the tide through Kyle Rhea ; but anchor for the tide at the Callerch Beacon, on the N. side or off the mouth of the Kyle Rhea river, on the S. side of the narrows. At Castle ]\Ioyle, or Kyle Akin, the tide runs very irregularly. This is a good place to have letters addressed to. Loch Duich. Loch Duich branches off Loch Alsh, and can be ascended. The scenery is very fine. There is a beautiful little bay on the right-hand side, going up, opposite Eilean Donan Castle. The loch is easily navigated. {See Chart 2676, price 3s.) Loch Long cannot be navigated. Loch Scavaig, Skye. No yachts should rashly go in to the in- ner bay. There are iron rings fastened into the rocks. Yachts can anchor farther out, or under the shelter of Eilean Sea. The bottom of Loch Scavaig is of boulder clay, with Arctic shells. A yacht boat can easily be carried up to Loch Coruisk. Should tliis way of see- ing Coruisk not be desired, a yacht can anchor off the mouth of Loch Sligachan on the E. side of Skye, in Balemenah Bay. It would not be safe to enter Loch Sligachan, and little distance would be saved from Sligachan Inn, as the head of Loch Sligachan is very shallow. A carriage-road runs along the E. side of Loch Sligachan, and a car- riage can be got from Sligachan Inn to take up a party. The car- riage should either be ordered to Sconcer, and the party land there from the boat, or else to the ferry, which crosses the mouth of Loch Sligachan. From Sligachan Inn ponies can be got to Coruisk. The sail from Sligachan to the N. of Skye is very enjoyable. Observe the basaltic columns at Loch Staffin, and a curious perforated rock at high-water mark, S. of Loch Staffin. The sound between Raasay and Skye is more interesting than the sound between Raasay and Applecross, which is called the Inner Sound. The sound between Raasay and Rona is good. Observe at the N. end of Raasay, on the E. side of the island, a curious cluster of huts amidst the rocks. Loch Carron. There are rocks in the entrance, but the channel is now buoyed since the railway has been opened. After the entrance is passed the navigation is perfectly safe. {See Chart No. 3639, price 3s.) There is a good hotel near the railway station. Loch Torridon. This loch should be visited. Yachts can either anchor at Shieldag, or go through the second narrow, if there is a [3G] V. Hints for Yachtsmen in the Hehr ides. Introd. breeze. There are no dangers. Ben Alligin is best seen from Upper Locli Torridon. The best anchorage is on the S. side, in a quiet bay called 01 Gorra More. {See Chart 3632, price 3s.) Be careful, as there are two other bays on the same side, one of which is narrow, the other shallow. The anchorage at Shieldag is off the inn, under shelter of the island. Beware of a spit which joins the island and the shore, and anchor S. of it. The scenery of Upper Loch Torridon will quite repay the time spent in going up. Gairloch. The anchorage is usually off the pier, or on the S. side of the loch. The sea fishing is good round the bays. Sea trout may be got with the artificial minnow. This loch is hardly praised enough in guide-books, and to a person coming from sea, or to one who has sailed along the comparatively uninteresting shores which stretch N. and S., it has a peculiar charm. The Inn is very comfortable. A new and capacious Inn was erected 1872 at Talladale, on Loch Maree. The distance is only 6 m. to Poolewe, so the yacht can be sent round, and the party cross by carriage or on foot. The view of Maree from this road, and the views of the Gairloch, are very fine. Poolewe. Lochewe is free from danger. Anchor well off the inn, as the loch is shallow. 6 m. from Poolewe is Loch Fruin, celebrated for its Salmo ferox. Loch Broom. Ullapool is a dull small village. There is a daily steamer from this to Stornoway, and land conveyance to the Garve, on the Skye Railway. There is good anchorage at Tannera, out- side Loch Broom. Lock Inver. Trout-fishing can be got in Lochs Fuin or Beanoch, also in the rivers Inver and Kirkaig. Apply at the inn. The river fishing is generally let. The boat of Loch Fuin is a Norwegian skiff, and is very difficult to row against the mnd. The charge is at present 2s. 6d. a day for the boat, 10s. a day for the river, gillie extra. The fishing is best in autumn. The sea fishing is good. Lobsters can be purchased here. Badcoll. Great care must be used in going in. Use the chart of Edrachilles Bay (2502), which chart also contains Loch Glen Dhu, and Loch Glen Coul, commonly called the Glens. Glen Coul is the best to go up. In Kyle Skou the tide runs very strongly. There is good anchorage on the S. side of the loch, inside the Kyle under the inn. A hurried vis'it to these lochs, in case of detention, is advisable. A yacht might anchor outside the Kyle, in " the small circular basin inside the island," mentioned in Wilson's " Yacht Voyage," and the Scotland. V. Yachts on West dast of Scotland. [37] loclis be visited by small boats. Yachters should not miss these lochs. The northern slope of the Assynt Hills is rugged and over- hanging. There is a clean little inn at the Kyle, and a ferry. The road from Loch Inver to Scourie crosses the locli at this ferry. The hills which rise immediately beside the Kyle are not high, and the Kyle is not parellel with the line of the glen between the high hills, but is diagonal. These circumstances enable yachts to get in general a start of wind through the Kyle. In the highland lochs the wind generally blows up and down. Handa Island. Very curious, and worth visiting. Considered by many to be as much bird-peopled as St. Kilda. The cliffs are very impressive, as seen from a small boat. The emerald water in the caves contrasts beautifully with the warm red cliffs. A row boat can be taken close in when the weather is fine. There are no dangers off the cliffs, though there are rocks off the S. end of the island. The report of a gun brings thousands of gulls and divers off the ledge of the rock, and cormorants out of the dark caves. The chart of Loch Laxford (2503) includes Handa, on a large scale. Tlie island is circular, and about 1^ m. in diameter. Herd Point. At this, the point next to Cape Wrath, there is a detached stack, nearly as good as the one at the Storr Head. Loch Laxford. The nearest good harbour to Cape "Wrath, and one of the most individual lochs in the Highlands. Shallow at the top, numerous creeks all the way up, granite islands and peninsulas, with good anchorages. The scenery somewhat similar to the Eoss of Mull, only on a larger scale. The echoes are extraordinary. The best anchorage is in the bay behind the Crow Island, going in by the E, end of the Crow Island. In June 1871 there were twenty vessels lying there. Loch Eriholl. There is good anchorage to be got on the E. side of the loch at the ferry house. A Pict's house has l^een partly excavated here by Mr. Clark, the tenant of the sheep farm. Whiten Head. As seen from the sea this cliff presents a fine series of caves. It may easily be recognised by its white colour, and is an excellent landmark by which to fix Loch Eriboll. Loch Eri- boll is the only first-rate anchorage in going to Orkney after leaving Loch Laxford. Orkney. Great caution must be used in going through Hoy Sound. A short visit may be paid in a yacht to Orkney and much seen by the following route. Enter Scalpa Flow from the Pentland Firth, by Hoza Sound. There is a lighthouse. A pilot may be obtained at WidewaU or Long Hope. From either of these harbours sail to Scalpa Bay, which forms the S. harbour of KirkwaU. Thence sail to [38] VI. Skeleton Routes. Introd. Stromness, and return S. again either througli Hoy Sound, or go back again by Long Hope. A boat can be got on Loch Stennis. If the water is not too muddy the fishing is good. Along with the fishing excursion the Standing Stones may be visited. The telegraph is connected with Orkney and Shetland, but not being postal, the charge is 6s. to England or Scotland for twenty words, and Is. 6d. for every additional five words ; excej)t to Moss Bank, CuUa Voe, Uya Sound, and Balta Sound in Shetland, the rates to which are 7s. for the first twenty words, and Is. 9d. for every additional five words. A telegram can be forwarded to Thurso by post. Salmon. Salmon and grilse can be purchased at the fishing stations at Gairloch (in Eoss-shire), Poolewe, Portree, Sandwdck near Stornoway, on the N. side of the loch, and sometimes at lona, where they are brought to be shipped by the steamer. VI. —Skeleton Routes, which can be transposed or extended AT pleasure. A. A Tour of Tico Months, halting on Sundays. 1. Carlisle to Dumfries ; see Dumfries Lincluden, and Caerlaverock. 2. New Abbey ; rail to Kirkcudbright ; drive to Dundrennan. 3. Rail to Castle-Douglas and Stranraer, sto23ping at Glenluce. 4. Stranraer by coach to Girvan ; rail to Ayr, and see Ayr and Burns's Monument. 5. Rail to Dalmellington ; see Loch Doon ; back to Ayr. 6. Kilwinning ; Paisley ; Ardrossan ; and by steamer to Arran. 7. Sunday in Arran. 8. Ascend Goatfell ; evening by steamer to Glasgow. 9. See Glasgow, Bothwell, and Hamilton. 10. To Balloch, Loch Lomond, Rowardennan ; ascend Ben Lomond, and sleep at Tarbet. 11. Loch Katrine, Trossachs. 12. Trossachs to Callander ; rail to Loch Lubnaig and Lochearn- head ; drive to St. Fillans. 13. By coach to Crieff ; by rail to Stirling [Lake of Menteith, Aberfoyle] and Glasgow. 14. Stay at Glasgow. 1 5. By lona to Oban. 16. Excursion to Loch Awe and Inveraray. 17. Glencroe ; Tarbert ; Ardlui ; coach to Glencoe and Ballachulish. Scotland. VI. Skeleton Routes. [39] 18. Steamer to Oban ; Excursion to Mull, Staflfa, lona. 1 9. Oban to Skye. 20. Portree to Quiraing. 21. Portree to Storr Rock. 22. Portree to Sligachan and L. Coruisk, and sleep at Broadford. 23. Catch steamer at Broadford or Kyle Akin ; cross to Balmacarra ; Falls of Glomach ; sleep at Sliiel House Inn. 24. Sliiel Inn to Invergarry or Invermoriston ; catch steamer to Banna vie. 25. Ascend Ben Nevis ; excursion to Glenfinniin. 26. Glen Spean ; Glen Roy ; Loch Treig. 27. Bannavie to Inverness. 28. Stay at Inverness. 29. Dingwall ; Loch Acheltie ; Falls of Rogie ; Jeantown. 30. Excursion to Applecross and Kishorn. 31. Loch Torridon ; Loch Maree ; Talladale. 1. To Poolewe ; Loch Broom ; and Ullapool. 2. To Loch Inver. 3. Loch Inver to Assynt, Loch Shin, and Golspie. 4. See Dunrobin ; excursion to Helmsdale. 5. Stay at Golspie. 6. Evanton Gorge ; Dornoch ; Tain ; Beauly ; Kilmorack ; Druim ; Chisholm's Pass ; Loch Affrick, Beauly. 7. Inverness ; Forres ; Banks of the Findhorn ; Elgin. 8. Grantovvn ; Strathspey ; Tomantoul ; Braemar. 9. Excursion to Ben Muich-Dliui or Lochnagar. 1 0. Balmoral ; Ballater ; Aboyne ; Aberdeen. 11. Stay at Aberdeen. 1 2. Old and New Aberdeen ; Brechin, Edzell Castle and the Burn. 13. Forfar ; Glamis Castle ; Cupar- Angus ; Glen Isla ; Den of Airlie ; Dunkeld. 14. Dunkeld ; Birnam ; Murthly. 15. Pitlochrie ; Killiecrankie ; Blair- Athole ; Glen Tilt. 1 6. Tumniel Bridge ; Kenmore ; Loch Tay ; Aberfeldy. 1 7. Amulree ; Crieff ; Comrie ; St. Fillans ; Perth. 18. Stay at Perth ; Kinnoul Hill. 19. Dmidee ; St. Andrews. 20. Kinross ; Lochleven ; Rumbling Bridge. 21. Dollar ; Castle Campbell ; Stirling, by w^ater to Edinburgh. 22. Stirling ; Edinburgh, by rail ; see Linlithgow. 23. Edinburgh. 24. Excursion to Haddington and Tantallon. [^0] VI. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 25. Stay at Edinburgh. 26. Hawthornden ; Eoslin. 27. Melrose ; Dry burgh ; Abbotsford. 28. Kelso ; Jedburgh ; Selkirk. 29. Selkirk ; St. Mary's Loch ; Moffat. 30. Beattock ; back to Carlisle. B. Tour of Three Months. 1. Berwick ; Norham ; and Flodden Field. 2. Coldingham ; Fast Castle ; by rail from Cockburnspath to Dunbar. 3. North Berwick ; Tantallon ; Dirleton. 4. Prestonpans ; Edinburgh. 5. Edinburgh. 6. Dalkeith ; Borthwick ; Crichton. 7. Rest at Edinburgh. 8. Hawthornden ; Roslin ; Edinburgh. 9. Linlithgow ; Queensferry ; Dunfermline ; Kinross. 10. Lochleven ; rail to Rumbling Bridge ; Dollar. 11. Castle Campbell ; Stirling. 1 2. Bannockburn ; Stirling ; Dunblane ; Doune ; Callander. 13. Trossachs ; Loch Katrine ; Liversnaid ; Loch Lomond ; BaUoch. 14. Rest at Tarbet. 1 5. Loch Lomond ; Ben Lomond ; sleep at Tarbet. 1 6. Early walk to Arrochar ; by steamer to Ardlui : coach and rail to Killin ; Lochearnhead or St. Fillans. 17. To Comrie, Crieff, and Perth; see Perth. 18. Rail to Dunkeld ; Birnam Hill. 19. Excursions in neighbourhood of Dunkeld ; rail to Pitlochrie. 20. Explore Vale of Tummel and Killiecrankie ; sleep at Blair- Athole. 21. Rest ; walk up Glen Tilt ; Falls of Bruar. 22. Return by Rail to Dunkeld ; Loch of the Low^es and Blair- gowrie ; catch the coach to Casleton Braemar. 23. Balmoral ; Ascent of Lochnagar. 24. Excursion to Ben Muich-Dhui and Wells of Dee. 25. By Tomintoul to Grantown. 26. Rail down Strathspey ; Grantown ; Forres. 27. Elgin ; Pluscardine. 28. Rest at Forres. 29. Forres ; Excursion up the Findhorn ; Altyre ; Relugas. 30. Darnaway ; Nairn ; Culloden ; Liverness. Scotland. VI. Skeleton Routes. [41] 1. Beauly ; Kilmorack ; Druim ; Chisliolin's Pass ; Loch Afirick ; sleep at Invercannich. 2. Strathpeflfer ; ascend Ben Wyvis. 3. Loch Acheltie ; Falls of Eogie ; return to Dingwall. 4. Ault Graat of Evanton ; Tain ; Fearn ; Lairg. 5. Rest at Lairg or Golspie. 6. Golspie ; Dunrobin. 7. Rail to Wick. 8. Excursion to Duncansbay Head and John-o'-Groat's House ; rail to Thurso. 9. Thurso to Tongue ; sleep there. 10. Tongue to Durness ; see Smoo Cave. 1 1 . Excursion to Cape Wrath ; or else get south to Scourie. 1 2. Rest at Scourie. 13. Loch Liver. 14. To Assynt ; Inchnadamff ; thence to Ullapool. 15. Ullapool to Gairloch. 1 6. Loch Maree ; Auchnasheen ; Strome Ferry. 17. To Applecross. 18. To Shieldaig and Torridon ; Strome Ferry. 1 9. Rest at Jeantown or Balmacarra. 20. Steamer to Skye ; land at Broadford. 21. To Torrin ; get boat down Loch Slapin ; and row round to Loch Coruisk, having arranged for ponies to be sent from Sligachan to Camasunary ; sleep at Sligachan. 22. Sligachan to Portree ; Storr Rock. 23. Uig ; Quiraing. 24. To Dun vegan. 25. Dunvegan to Balmacarra and Shiel House Inn. 26. Rest at Shiel House Inn. 27. Excursion to Falls of Glomach. 28. Shiel Inn to Invergarry or Invermoriston ; cross over to Foyers. 29. Steamer to Bannavie ; ascend Ben Nevis. 30. Excursion to Loch Arkaig or Glenfinnan. 1. Glen Roy ; Fort-William ; in evening steamer to Ballachulish. 2. Rest at Ballachulish ; Loch Leven. 3. Glencoe and Loch Etive. 4. Steamer to Oban ; excursion round Mull to StafFa. 5. Oban to Loch Etive, Ardchattan, and Dunstaffnage. 6. To DalmaUy ; ascend Ben Cruachan. 7. Excursion to Loch Awe ; visit Blairgour Fall. 8. To Inveraray ; Excursion to Loch Long. [42] VI. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 9. Rest at Inveraray. ' 10. Inveraray to Tarbert ; if the day suits catcli steamer at West Tarbert for Islay. 11. Islay. 1 2. Return to East Tarbert ; by coach to Campbeltown. 13. Campbeltown by steamer to Glasgow. 14. Glasgow. 15. Glasgow ; Bothwell ; Falls of Clyde ; evening by steamer to 16. Gareloch or Loch Goil or Loch Long. 17. Greenock ; Rothesay ; (Bute) to Arran. 1 8. Arran ; ascend Goatfell ; Corrie. 19. Loch Ranza ; Tormore ; Corrie-an-lachan. 20. Steamer to Ardrossan ; Ayr ; Burns's Monument ; Brig o' Doon. 21. Dalmellington and Loch Ness. 22. Maybole; Girvan ; Stranraer; Castle Kennedy. 23. Rest at Stranraer. 24. Rail to Kircudbright ; Dundrennan Abbey ; evening to Dumfries. 25. Dumfries ; Lincluden ; New Abbey. 26. Caerlaverock ; afternoon rail to Lockerbie, Beattock and Moffat. 27. Moffat ; St Mary's Loch ; Selkirk. 28. By rail to Abbotsford and Melrose. 29. Dryburgli ; drive to Kelso. 30. Roxburgh ; Jedburgh ; proceed by rail to Hawick ; see Branx- holm. c. A Months Pedestrian Tour on the West Coast. 1 . Rail to Balloch ; steamer to Rowardennan ; ascend Ben Lomond ; afternoon by short track to Loch Ard and Aberfoyle. 2. By Loch Drunkie to Trossachs ; by Glenfinlas to King's House. 3. Rail to L. Earn ; Killin and Tyndrum ; catch coach to Dalmally. 4. Ascend Cruachan ; excursion on Loch Awe ; coach to Oban. 5. By Appin to Ballachulish. 6. Glencoe nearly to King's House. 7. Walk to Fort- William by Devil's Staircase. 8. Rest at Fort- William (Caledonian). 9. Ascend Ben Nevis ; sleep at Bannavie, 10. Walk to Kinloch-Aylort ; (Mail car) walk to Arisaig. 11. Arisaig (it would be well if this could be timed to catch the steamer on one of its visits to Skye). 12. Broadford ; either walk to Torriii, get a boat to Kilmaree, and walk to Camasunar}^ ; or else go from Broadford to Sligachan Scotland. VL Skeleton Routes. [4:3] by car, and start for tlie Coollins from there, — in any case, a long and arduous day. 13. A second day ought to be devoted to Glen Sligachan and Hart o' Corrie ; evening drive from Sligachan to Portree. 14. Rest at Portree. 15. Quiraing ; better drive there, for the road is long and dull. 1 6. Storr Rock ; back to Portree, evening by steamer to Balniacarra. 1 7. Balmacarra to Shiel House Inn ; by Loch Alsh and Duich. 18. Mountain road by Kintail ; Fall of Glomar to Loch Carron. 19. To Applecross. 20. To Shieldag and Loch Torridon ; either rest at Shieldag, or push on to Kinlochewe. 21. Rest at Kinlochewe (good inn) ; Loch Maree. 22. 23, 24, Loch Maree and Gairloch ; if possible, from Gairloch catch a steamer going north to Loch Inver, as the road, though a fine coast road, will scarce repay, where time is an object ; if there is no steamer take the mail-car. 25. Loch Inver to Assynt and Inchnadamff. 26. Car to Lairg ; rail to Dingwall ; 'bus to Strathpefi'er. 27. Ascend Ben Wyvis ; evening to Inverness. 28. Down the Caledonian Canal to Foyers ; walk to Fort- Augustus. 29. By Corryarrick Pass to Loch Laggan ; catch Qoach to Bridge of Roy. 30. Glen Roy ; ascend the hills, and descend to Loch Oich at Laggan ; catch steamer to Oban. D. An Antiquarian Tour of One Month in the Lowlands. 1. Steele Road Station ; visit Hermitage and Nine Stane Rig, or else the Catrail from Riccarton ; Hawick ; Goldielands and Branksome Towers. 2. Camps on the Eildon Hills ; Melrose Abbey. 3. Abbotsford ; Lessudden ; Dryburgh. 4. Eckford Church ; Jedburgh ; Roman Road ; Kelso. 5. Linton Church ; excursion to Yetholm. 6. Hume Castle ; Coldstream ; Flodden Field, 7. Berwick ; Norham ; Lady kirk. 8. Coldingham ; Cockbumspath Stat ; Innerwick Castle ; Dunbar, 9. Tantallon and Dirleton Castles. 1 0. Haddington Church ; Pinkie House ; Holyrood. 11. Edinburgh. 1 2. Edinburgh ; Craigmillar ; Hawthornden ; Roslin. 1 3. Crichton and Borthwick Castles ; sleep at Peebles. [44] VI. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 14. Peebles ; Traquair ; Neidpath ; camps on the Lyne ; terraces at Eomauno. 15. Driunmelzier ; Drocliil ; return to Edinburgh by the Caledonian Railway. 16. Corstorphine ; Kirkliston ; Linlithgow. 17. Torphichen ; the Kipps ; Bannockburn ; Stirling. 18. Stirling ; Cambuskenneth ; sleep at Glasgow. 19. Glasgow to Dumbarton. 20. Blantyre ; Both well ; Hamilton ; Cadzow. 21. Paisley Abbey ; Castle Semple ; Kilwinning ; Ardrossan. 22. Dundonald Castle ; Ayr ; Burns's Monument. 23. Maybole ; Crossraguel Abbey ; Greenan Castle ; Girvan ; Stran- raer^ by evening coach. 24. Castle Kennedy; Wigtown; excursion to Whithorn ; sleep at Wigtown. 25. Examine Stone Circle ; rail from Newton-Stewart to Kircud- bright ; Dundrennan Abbey. 26. Moat of Urr ; New Abbey ; Dumfries. 2 7. Dumfries ; Caerlaverock Castle ; Lincluden. 28. Lochmaben Castle ; Burrenswark Hill ; Carlisle. E. Antiquarian Tour of One Month on the East Coast, commencing at Edinhurgh. 1. Edinburgh. 2. Corstorphine ; Linlithgow ; Dalmeny. 3. Craigmillar ; Crichton ; Borthwdck ; Pinkie House. 4. Donibristle ; Aberdour ; Rossyth ; Dunfermline. 5. To Stirling ; Cambuskenneth. 6. Rail to Tillicoultry ; Castle Campbell ; Kinross. 7. Rail to Kirkcaldy ; Dysart ; St. Monance Church ; Falkland. 8. Dairsie Church ; Leuchars ; St. Andrews. 9. Dundee ; Arbroath. 1 0. Montrose ; Red Castle ; Brechin ; Edzell Castle ; Dunnottar. 11. Old and New Aberdeen. 12. Insch ; Hill of Noth ; Huntly. 13. Keith ; Balvenie Castle ; Rothes ; Elgin. 14. Elgin ; Spynie. 15. Pluscardine ; Birnie Kirk. 1 6. Burghead ; Forres ; Culloden ; Inverness. 17. Craigphadrick ; Beauly. 18. Dingwall ; Knockfarril ; Fortrose ; Cromarty. 19. Nigg ; Shandwick ; Fearn ; Tain. Scotland. VI. Skeleton Routes. [45] 20. Dornoch ; Skibo ; return to Inverness. 21. Highland Railway to Dunkeld. 22. Excursion to Blairgowrie and Kirkmichael Circles. 23. Perth ; Abernethy Round Tower ; Mugdrum Cross ; Lindores Abbey. 24. Ardoch Camp ; Crieff ; Inchaffray Abbey. 25. Dunblane ; Doune ; Sheriffmuir. The rest of this month may be devoted to coast below Edinburgh, as in last route. F. Pedestrian Tour of One Month through Ross, Sutherland, and Caith- ness arriving by Steamer from Oban to Glenelg. 1. Excursion to Glen Beg ; Cross Mam Rattachan to Shiel House Inn. 2. Excursion to Falls of Glomach and Pass of Kintail. , 3. To Strome Ferry by Lochalsh and Balmacarra. 4. Jeantown to Applecross. 5. Applecross over the hills to Shieldag. 6. By Torridon to Kinlochewe. 7. Rest at Kinlochewe (good inn). 8. To Gairloch. 9. Gairloch to Poole we and Aultbea. 10. To Ullapool. 11. Excursion to Strome Falls and Loch Broom. ■• 1 2. Ullapool to Inchnadamff. 13. To Loch Assynt and Loch Inver. 14. Rest at Loch Inver. 15. To Culkein ; get a boat to Badcoul ; then on to Scourie. 16. Visit Handa ; on to Rhiconich. 17. Rhiconich to Durness ; see Smoo. 18. Excursion to Cape Wrath. 19. Drive to Loch EriboU ; walk from Heilim Inn to Altnaharra. 20. Altnaharra to Tongue. 21. Rest at Tongue. 22. Tongue to Melvich. 23. Melvich to Thurso. 24. Thurso to Houna. 25. Duncansbay Head and Wick. The remainder of the month may be devoted to the Orkney and Shetland Islands, catching the steamer from Lerwick or Kirk- wall to Aberdeen. If the tourist prefers he can take the coach from Wick to Helmsdale. [46] VI. Skeleton Routes. Introd. 27. Helmsdale to Golspie. 28. Eest at Golspie. 29. Golspie to Lairg and Locli Shin. 30. To Dornocli and Tain. Take train to Inverness. G. Pedestrian Tour up the West Coast, commencing at Callander. 1 . Walk to Loch Katrine ; steam to Stronachlachar ; walk to Inversnaid ; steamer to Tarbet or Rowardennan. 2. Ben Lomond ; evening to Tarbet or Arrochar. 3. To Inveraray. 4. To Dalmally. 5. Ascend Ben Cruachan. 6. To Oban. 7. Rest at Oban (Great Western or Caledonian). 8. To Appin and Ballachulish, or to Ballachulish by steamer. 9. Glencoe and King's House. 10. By Devil's Staircase to Fort- William and Bannavie. 11. To Kinloch-Aylort. 12. To Arisaig. This should be timed if possible to catch the steamer going north to Broadford. 14. Rest at Broadford. 15. Walk to Sligachan. 16. Coollins. 17. To Portree. 18. Storr Rock and Steinscholl. 19. Quiraing ; back to Portree. 20. Steamer to Balmacarra ; to Shiel House Inn. 21. Rest at Shiel House Inn. 22. Falls of Glomach. 23. To Jeantown. 24. Applecross. 25. To Shieldag. 26. To Kinlochewe. 27. To Gairloch. 28. Rest at Gairloch, (good inn). 29. To Poolewe and UUapool. 30. Ullapool by mail car to Dingwall. H. Pedestrian Tour of Three Weeks in the District of the Braes of Angus and the Grampians. 1. From Arbroath to Auchmithie, and along the coast to Montrose. Scotland. YI. Skeleton Routes. [47] 2. Eail to Brecliiii ; see neighbourliood of Edzell. 3. Edzell to Glen Clova, by Lethnot and West Water. 4. Loch Brandy ; Glen Dole. 5. Glenprosen ; Glenisla. 6. Glenshee ; Glen Clunie ; Braemar. (The coach may be caught.) 7. Rest. 8. Glen Tilt ; Blair- Athole. 9. Glen Bruar ; Glen Tromie ; Kingussie. 10. Rail to Aviemore ; Larig Pass ; Glen Derrie. If no conveyance has been ordered from Braemar, a night's lodging (primitive) may be had at Macdonald's, the forester at Glen Derrie. 11. Ascend Ben Muich-Dhui ; Cairngorm. 12. By the E. Larig Pass to Abernethy ; rail to Grantown. 13. May be spent in the neighbourhood of Grantown or Dufftown. 14. Rest. 15. Grantown to Tomintoul. 16. Tomintoul by Inchrory to Braemar. 17. Ascend Lochnagar, and by Bachnagairn to Clova. 18. Clova by the Capel to Ballater. 1 9. Ascend Morven ; see Burn of the Vat. 20. Ballater to Edzell, over Mount Keen and Glen Mark. 2 1 . Edzell to Fettercairn (drive) ; then over Cairn Mount to White- stones Inn 22. By Birse to Aboyne ; or by Strachan to Banchory, and rail to ♦ Aberdeen. This tour may be indefinitely extended or altered, but it will give the visitor a good idea of the most mountainous district in Scotland. Should he prefer going westward, he can proceed by rail from Grantown to Dalwhinnie on the 1 5th day, and 1 6. Laggan Inn ; Glentreig ; Glen Roy. 17. Ben Nevis, Glen Nevis, etc. [48] VII. ExplaTiation of Gaelic Names. Introd. VIL— EXPLANATION OF GAELIC NAMES AND PLACES IN THE HIGHLANDS. The following list of Gaelic roots, in current use for the naming of places in the Highlands, is only a very small fraction of what might readily be given. Persons who wish to pursue the subject will find excellent aids in Robertson's " Gaelic Topography of Scotland," Edinburgh, 1869 ; Joyce's "Orig. and Hist, of Irish Names of Places," Dublin, 1871-2 ; and Taylor's "Names and Places." In order to understand certain changes to which the root is subject in flexion, and in the formation of compound w^ords, some peculiarities of the Gaelic language require to be known, which may succinctly be set down here. The language spoken by the Scottish Highlanders, and by the Celtic race in Ireland — for the Scottish and Irish Gaelic are one language, and not two — is a branch of the great Aryan family, of which Latin, Greek, and Sanscrit are the most notable members. The fact of this affinity — for a long time ignored — was first established to the satisfaction of the learned world by Prichard in his book, " The East- ern Origin of the Celtic Nations proved." Quaritch, London, 1831. The exact position of Gaelic in reference to its sister languages is only now in the process of being scientifically ascertained ; but, so far as exact analysis has hitherto gone, it would appear that Latin and Teutonic have almost equal claims to a close relationship with the Gaelic ; Greek analogies are more sparse ; and its supposed connection with Hebrew may be left out of view altogether till the general rela- tion of the Semitic languages to the Aryan shall have been more clearly defined. The relation to Latin is at first blush certainly the most obvious ; of this the numerals alone are a most striking instance ; and some Latin roots of frequent occurrence will strike a very superficial scholar in the subjoined list, as ach = age?', tigh= tignum, heann=pinna, uisge=aqua, loch=lacus, tir= terra, and a few others, the majority of these words being, as it happens, also Greek. The method of varying the roots by flexional syllables added to the termination, so familiar to the classical scholar, is used also in Gaelic, but to a limited extent ; and the terminations, where they exist, are so much curtailed, and in practice slurred over and cheated of their proper value in such a fashion, that for the common purposes of social communication they scarcely seem to exist. On the other hand the Hebrew method of varying the quality of the root by modifications of the radical vowel is in constant use, as in the case of Tay-^iuilt, a well-known station between Oban and Loch Awe, where uilt is the genitive case of alt, a brook, wdth the defi Scotland. YII. Explanation of Gaelic Names. [49] nite article n interposed between the two elements of tlie compoimd. On such changes the reader will of course keep an eye, where they may appear in the subjoined list, or in the works above referred to ; but what requires much more attention from every person who is anxious to understand the significance of Gaelic names, is the remark- able change in the form of w^ords which habitually takes place by w^hat is technically called asjnration ; that is by a soft breath- ing, with which the initial or middle consonant of a word is affected in such a manner as to polish away the sharpness of its emphasis, and sometimes to efface it altogether. Thus h with the aspirate It becomes v. and is written bh ; and /, which is already asjjirated, being equal to jj/j, on receiving a double dose of aspiration is obliterated altogether. To know the cases in which this aspiration takes place, to a Saxon ear forms one of the great practical difficulties of the language ; the general principle on which it proceeds is no doubt a combination of euphony ; but it will be enough here to state that the initial consonant of an adjec- tive is aspirated when it is in concord with a feminine substantive, while the masculine substantive claims the full value of the letter. Thus we say Slcerry-vore, a big reef, because Sgeir, a reef, is feminine ; but Lismore, a great garden, because lios, which signifies a garden, in Gaelic, and a fort in Irish, is masculine. In the same way the familiar adjective breac, spotted or brindled, becomes vracMe when used as an epithet to designate a well-known hill near Pitlochrie in Perthshire ; and when fal, long, is affixed to beann the f disappears, as in Ben Ad, the northniost peak of Ben More in Mull. By another singular phonetic habit in certain words beginning with s, the sibilant becomes a dental in the course of flexion, as saor, a car- penter, but Mac-an-taor, Macintyre, the son of the carpenter ; so sail, the salt-water joined with cea7in, head or end, becomes Kintail, as the country of the Macras is called in Eoss-shire, which is identical etymologically with the town of Kinsale in the south of Ireland, %vhere the s of the root remains unchanged. Another element of perplexity to the English student of Gaelic topography arises from the absorption of the definite article into the following word, as in Dalness, i.e. Dal-an-eas, Vale of tJie Waterfall. Those who wish to pursue the study of Gaelic — a language full of interest not only to the philologer but to the historical student and the lover of popular poetry — should not allow themselves to be deterred by any considerations of extraordinary difficulty generally imagined to belong to that language. No doubt two-thirds of the vocabulary may prove altogether new even to a good linguist ; but in other respects Gaelic is no more difficult than any other language. [Scotland.'] c 2 50] yil. Explanation of Gaelic Words, and Introd. Its peculiar liquid and nasal sounds, which contribute so much to its euphony, will be found mostly in French, German, Italian, or Spanish ; its ch, equivalent to the Greek y^, is easily learned, and the frequent mute consonantal combinations in which it delights (as in the English might, sigh), fall under a common rubric which the ear will learn easily to acknowledge. In the pronunciation Macalpine's pocket dictionary will be found useful for acquiring a certain limited vocabulary to start with. No expedient will be found more profitable than the study of topographical etymology, to which the subjoined list may be looked on as giving an introduction. Many hundreds of descriptive Celtic roots are photographed in the local designations of Scotland and Ireland ; and the amount of curious and interesting information that naturally springs out of this topo- graphical study will surprise and delight those who have not been accustomed to connect philology with any special associations of intellectual enjoyment. Aber . At the mouth of . Abertarf . At the mouth of the Tarff. Achadh . A field . . . . Achallader . Field of the wooded stream. Aird — ard . A height— high . Ardnamui-chan The bluff of the Great head- land. The dwellmg in the corner. Aig. . . A small nook or creek . Arisaig . Alt. . . A brook Taynuilt . The house of the brook. Abhuinn .. A river .... Benavon . The Ben of the river. An . , Diminutive at the end of words . Ben Lochan . Mountain of the little loch. Aluinn .. Beautiful . Loch Aluin . Fair Lake. Aros , A habitation Aros A dwelling. Araidh . . A sheaUng . Inveraraidh . At the mouth of the river of the shealing. Ba . . A cow .... Loch Baa Cow-lake. Baile , A village or town Balnakiel The town of the church or churchyard. Ban . White, fair . Banchory The fair hollow or valley. Ban- . A projecting top . Dunbar . Fortress on the projecting height. Beath . A birch tree Dalbeath Birch field. Bealach . A mountain pass . Ballochbuie . The yellow-pass, or the pass of victory. Beag . Little . . . . Glenbeg . Little valley. Benn . A mountain . Benmore Big mount. Blar . A plain Blair-Athole . Plain of Athole. Cruach . A bank, slope, brae . Tighnabruach House of the brae. Burn . Spring water Glenburnie . Brook dale. Bun . Bottom, root Bunawe . Bottom of the river Awe. Breac . Spotted, brindled Benvracky Spotted or striped mount. Buidh . Yellow. Loch Buie Yellow Lake. Cam, CAi iBUs . Crooked, a creek . Cambusmore . Great bend. Cam . A heap of stones . Cairngorm Dark blue heap or mount. Car. . A turn, a winding Carron . The winding stream. Cathaii- . A fortress or town Keir The fortress. Caol A strait, firth Ballachulish, KylesofBute The dwelling of the strait. Ceann . Head, end . Kintail . Head of the salt water. Cill. . A church Kilmallie Church of the Virgin Maiy. Cro . . A sheepfold . Glencroe Valley of the sheepfold. Scotland. Names of Places in the Highlands. [51] Clach . . A stoue Clachnacu- dainn Stone of the tub (Inverness) Cluain . . A meadow . Cluny . The meadow. Cnoc . A hill, a knoll . Knock in Mull A little hill. Coire . A cauldron, a hollow CorriebuiCv The yellow hollow. Coille . . Wood ... V Kellyburn The woody water Creag . . A rock, a clift' Craigentinny The rock of the fire. Cruach . . A rick or stack' . Ben Cruachan The stack-shaped mountain. Cul . The back, behind Culloden for A plain behind the sea- Cul-oiter shore (oitir. ) Cumhann . Xarrow Glencoe or Cona The narrow glen. Datl . A dale, a field . Dalnaspidail Field of the hospital. Daraeh . . An oak . Craigendarach Rock of the oaks. Dearg . . Red . Bendearg The red mountain Dour . Water . Aberdour At the mouth of the water. Drochaid . Abridge . Drumn'drcchit The bridge of the ridge. Drum . A ridge Drum (Ir^'^ines of Drum A ridge. Dubh . . Black, dark . Benmuicdhui Mount of the black sow. Dun . A fortress . Dunfermline Fort of the alder pool. Eadar . . Between Bendirloch Hill between two lakes. Eaglais . . A church Ecclefeohan Church of St. Feochan. Eas . A waterfall . Inver-n-ess At the mouth of the river which flows from the loch of the Fall of Foyers. Eilean . . An island . Eilean Sgiat hack or Skye - Winged island. Fad . Long . Loch Fad Long loch. Falach . . Cover, shelter Glenfalloch Vale of shelter. Fas. . Growth Fassifeam Growth of alders. read . A whistle . Tighnafead Whistle-house. Fearn . An alder . Fearn A place full of alders. Fionn . . White, shining . Lochfyne Shining lake. Garbh . . Rough . Garavalt . Rough stream. Gart . An enclosed field Gartmore Great field. Gearr . Short . Gairloch . The short lake. Glas . Grey . Dunj;lass Grey fort. Gleann . . A uaiTOw valley . Gleuure The valley of the yew tree. Gobhainn . A blacksmith Balgownie Smith's dwelling. Gorm - . . Dark blue . TuUigoium Tlie blue hill. Grian . The sun Greenock Sunny hill or nook (aig) Innis or I> OH An enclosed place o] island ' Inchgarvie Rough Island. Inbher . . An outlet, a confluence ; Inveresk The outlet of the river Esk. Lag . A hollow Laggan . A hollow. Larach . . Site of an old ruin Crianlarach Little old ruin. Leac . A flagstone . Auchinleck Field of flags. Leana . A plain Lenny . A plain. Lus . An herb Glenluce Valley of herbs. Lon . A meadow . Tighanlone House of the meadow. Leamhan . An elm-tree . Lochleven Lake of elm-trees. Learg . The slope of a hill Largs . Slope. Leum . A leap . Aberlemno Outlet of the leaping water. Linne . A pool . Corra linn The pool of the cauldron. Loch . A lake . . . Inverlochy At the mouth of the little lake. Lub . A bend, a loop . Loch Lubnaig Lake of the bending comer. [52] VII. Explanation of Gaelic IVords and Names. Introd. Machar . . A plain by the sea The Machar in lona and S. Uist . Jlagh . . A field . Moy A field. Maise . . Beauty . Strathmashie . Beautiful vale. Maol . . Bald lieadland . MullofCantire The broad headland of Can- tire. Monadh . . An upland moor . M on ess . Moor of the waterfall. Mor . Great . Morven . Great mountain. Mue . A sow . Glenmuic Glen of the swine. Oban . A small creek or bay . Oban A little bay. Ptt. Poll Port A hollow A pool . A harbour Pittenweem Hollow of the caves. Polbeath . The pool of the birches. Portree . . King's harbour. Raineach Rath Reidh . Righ Ros Riabhach A fern . A fort . Smooth, clear, a plain A king . A projecting point Brindled, spotted Rannoeh Rathveu . Moor of ferns. The hill fort. Dairy . . Vale of the king. Ross of Mull . Projecting point of Mull. Brae Riach . Spotted mount. Snathad Sgeir Sitheach Sgor Sron Srath . A needle A rock in the sea A fairy . . . . A sliarp rock A nose, a promontory , A strath, broad valley . Inversnaid Skerrj'vore Glenshee Scuirnagillean Stronfearu Strathmore Thin needle-like confluence. At the mouth of the great reef. The valley of fairies. Sharp ridge of the young men. The promontory of the alders. Broad vale. Tarbh Tigh Tir . Tobar Tom Torr Tidloch A bull . A house Land . A well . A hillock A hill . A little hill The Tarfif river Taynuilt . Cantire . Tobermory Tomintoul Torloisk . Tullibardine . Bull or fierce stream. House of the brook. End of the land. Well of the Virgin Mary. The hill of the barn, sabhail. Hill of the watch-fire. The bard's knoll. Uachdar Uamh Upper, high . A cave . Ochtertyre Wemyss . Upper district. The caves. HANDBOOK FOE SCOTLAND. SECTION I. The South of Scotland— Lowlands — Land of Scott and Burns — Vales of Tweed, ISTith, Upper Clyde— Edinburgh — Falls of Clyde, etc, INTRODUCTION. § 1. Traveller's View. § 2. Gothic Architecture of Scotland — Churches, Abbeys, and Castles. § 3. List of Objects of Interest. ROUTES. *,(.* The names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where the 2^laces are described. ROUTE PAGE a London to Edinburgh (Leith), by Sea .... 7 1 Carlisle to Edinburgh, by LiddesdaJe, Haicick {Dnj- hurgh), Melrose, Ahhotsford, and Galashiels — Railway 7 2 Newtown St. Boswells Junc- tion to Berwick-on-Tweed, by Jedburgh, Kelso {Flod- den), and Coldstream . 22 3 Newtown St. Boswells to Ees- ton Junction, hy Greenlaiv and Dunse — Railway . 29 4 Berwick to Edinburgh, by Coldingham, Dunbar [North Berwick], Hadding- ton, Prestonpans, and Mus- selburgh, North British Railway (Coast Line) . 31 5 Carlisle to Edinburgh (Glas- gow or Stirling), by Lock- erbie, Lochmaben, Bcattock [Moffat], and Carstairs Junction — Caledonian Railway ... 68 5a Symington Junction to Peebles, by Biggar and Brouqhton . . .74 6 Galashiels to Moffat, by Sel- kirk (Rail), Vale of Yar- row, St. Mary's Loch, and Grey Mare's Tail . .76 [Scotland. ] ROUTE PAGE 7 Selkirk to Moffat, by the Lttrick Valley . . 80 8 Carlisle to Glasgow, by Car- stairs Junction, Mother- u-cll, Coatbridge, Gart- sherrie, and the L^on District . . . .81 8AGlasgow to BotlivxU, Hamil- ton, Lanark, and Falls of Clyde . . . .83 9 Carlisle to Glasgow, by Annan, Dumfries, San- quhar, Kilmarnock, and Dairy Junction . . 90 10 Dumfries to Fortpatrick, by Castle - Douglas, Newton- Stewart, Wigtoion, and Stranraer — Cal. Rly. . 101 10a Castle - Douglas to Kirk- cudbright, Dundrennan Abbey, Gatehousc-of -Fleet, Amcoth . . . .109 If Stranraer to Ayr, by Ballan- trae, Girvan, and Maybole 112 12 Ayr to Glasgow, by Troon, Kilwinning, Ardrossan, Paisley, Dalmellington, and Loch Doon . .116 13 Edinburgh to Galashiels, by Da Ikeith, Hawthorndcn , Roslin, Pen7iicuik, Peebles, and Innerleithen . .125 B § 1. Traveller's View of South Scotland. Sect. I. § 1. Traveller's View of South Scotland. The Highlands of Scotland ongbt by no means to engross the exclu- sive attention and admiration of travellers. The south of Scotland, miscalled tlie Lowlands, since it is for the most part a mass of moun- tains or round-backed hills, intersected by valleys and plains, is full of picturesque beauty and " wildness, which just stops short of sub- limity," Though inferior to the Grampian ranges in elevation and romantic outline, it surpasses the north of Scotland in historic associ- ation, in legends, local poetry, and in the romance which the works of Scott and the pathos of the songs and poems of Burns have thrown, over many of the scenes, causing it to be called the land of Scott and Burns. It also excels the Highlands in the number and picturesqueness of its ancient buildings, its ruined abbeys and castles, and es[)ecially in that long chain of fort-like tov/ers — Peels or Bastels — which the insecure state of the Borders from the earliest times to the 1 6th century made to be the necessary form of a country gentle- man's house. The traveller imbued with the recollection of the " Lay of the Last Minstrel," " The Abbot," €tc., may repair to Melrose or Kelso, either directly from England, or making the excursion from Edinburgh. He will there find himself in the most beautiful part of the valley of the Tweed, under the shadow of that picturesque and eerie knot of hills, " The Eildons." He may spend hours among the exquisite ruins of Melrose, Kelso, and Jedburgh. He will go as a pilgrim to the shrines of Dryburgli (where rest the remains of Sir AValter and his family), and to Abbotsford, not forgetting the Peel Tower of Smail- holm, where Sir Walter spent his childhood. The view from Kelso bridge over the Tweed and Teviot, and the park of Floors, may tempt the traveller to tarry and explore the valleys of Teviot, Ettrick, Yarrow, and many others. If he enter Scotland by Berwick, there is the grand coast scenery of St. Abb's Head and Fast Castle, where the Lammermuirs drop down into the sea in strangely Contorted cliffs (dear to the geologist), or he may thread the defiles of Cockburnspath and the Pease Burn, on the battlefield of Dunbar, the turning-point of Cromwell's career. Diverging to North Berwick — resorted to for bathing and golf — he will have before him the sparkling shores of the Firth of Forth, with its rocky islets, the mysterious Bass Rock, and the Conical Law, and he may admire the golden crops of the Lothians, where agricul- ture, aided by coal and steam, asserts her just claims to be esteemed Introd. §1. Traveller's View of South Scotland. 3 a science. The attractions of Edinburgh and its environs are fully described in Route 4. Nor need the stranger be at a loss if he enter Scotland by the S.W., at the head of the Solway, or crossing its treacherous sands on a high railway bridge, as he may now do, to Annan. Here he is amid the scenery of " Redgauntlet " and " Guy Mannering." If he halt at Dumfries he will be in the country of Burns, he wdll visit the poet's grave ; and if he ascend the lovely Nithsdale, 6 or 8 m., he will see the very picturesque ruined abbeys of Sweetheart and Lincluden, or, 9 m. S. of Dumfries, may visit the triangular castle of Caerlaverock, on the margin of the Solway, under the shadow of Criffel. Proceeding AV. by Castle-Douglas, he may turn S. to explore the scenery of the three bays which indent the shores of Galloway, at Gatehouse-of-Fleet, and at Whithorn, near which the cliffs rise to great grandeur and elevation, which is continued round by the Mull of Galloway, and N. from Loch Ryan, to Girvan — a charming coast drive, for the railway has not yet extended so far. At Stranraer a halt should be made, to visit the noble woods and Pine-tree groves of Castle Kennedy (see Route 1 0). The chief associations with Burns centre round the town of Ayr. Half a day may well be spent in and near it, at Alloway Kii'k and Brig o' Doon, etc. Arrived at this point, the Alpine peaks and serrated ridges of Arran will tempt the traveller to cross to it from Ardrossan, and if he love fine scenery he will be rew^arded. But this and the Firth of Clyde belong to another section. In approaching Glasgow — either from S. or E. — the upper valley of the Clyde has claims to arrest the traveller's steps. Near Lanark are the Falls of the Clyde, the nearest approach in Britain to those of the Rhine {longo intervallo). Near Lanark occur the very pic- turesque dene of the river Mouse, and the Cartland Crags ; lower down, in a side valley, the castle of Craignethan, better known as Tillietudlem, both interesting and suited for the pencil, demand a slight detour. A few miles farther is " Bothwell Brig," an historic site, Hamilton Palace, with its art treasures and noble park, and Bothwell Castle, a grand ruin, next door to which are preserved some of Lord Chancellor Clarendon's finest Vandyks. The Black Country of Scotland, extending for miles round Glas- gow, is one of the most extraordinary scenes of industry in the world, where the " black diamond " has produced more genuine wealth than the brilliant of Golconda, and the " Black Band " may vie in rich results with the silver veins of Potosi. The principal ironworks are at Gartsherrie, Coatbridge, Dundy van, and Langloan, etc. 4 § 2. Architecture of Scotland. Sect. I. § 2. Gothic Architecture of Scotland — Churches, Abbeys, AND Castles. Scotland possesses glorious exauiples of Gothic art. Besides the Cathedral of Glasgow, a national monument which alone will repay a pilgrimage, and Roslin Chapel, — an anomalous curiosity, so unlike other contemporary buildings, that a Spanish or Portuguese origin has been attributed to it, though, after all, it may owe its peculiarities to the freaks of a native genius — there are the four abbeys of Tweed- side, Melrose, Dryburgh, Kelso, and Jedburgh. In the secluded dales of the Nith and of Galloway are the three less known but always charming ruined abbeys of Lincluden, Sweetheart, and Dundrennan ; the artistic ruins of Crossraguel in Ayrshire, and on the remote N.E. sea-coast, St. Andrews, Arbroath, and Elgin, are all highly interesting to English architects and antiquaries, and all furnish admirable subjects for the artist's pencil. It may be useful, there- fore, to premise that the ecclesiastical remains of Scotland, as regards age and style, are not to be judged by the rules applicable to those of England. The peculiarity of Scottish Gothic is the preservation of old forms. The round arch is of all ages ; both it and early mouldings, billet and dog-tooth, survived even to the 1 6th cent., long after they were abandoned in the South. In this respect they resemble some foreign examples, and may owe their peculiarity, perhaps, to the influence of French architects. To these there are some exceptions, for Dun- fermline reminds one of Durham, and features of Arbroath may be traced to Canterbury ; while Melrose, an almost solitary example of Perpendicular, can be directly referred to English influence. It has been too readily assumed that these fine buildings owe their present state of ruin to John Knox and the fanatic hammer of his followers. In the instances of Perth and St. Andrews he must indeed bear the blame ; but in the case of the Border abbeys, the injury was inflicted by the English soldiery of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, during those savage invasions or forays led by Hertford, Bowes, Sussex, and others. There are no Norman castles in Scotland. The earliest and largest feudal fortresses seem to date from the Edwardian era, and many of them were actually built by the English, Such may have been the origin of Dirleton, Doune, and Castle Urquhart. The royal castles of Edinburgh and Stirling retain but little of their original fabric ; the palaces of Linlithgow and Falkland are of later date. In the South, especially all through the Border lands, every gentleman's house who had farm produce or live-stock to protect Introd. § 3. Places of Interest. 5 was a Peel Toioer or Bastel. The terrific invasions of borderers and mosstroopers, lifting cattle, spoiling crops, burning barns and homesteads, compelled the landowner to construct a refuge for his family and retainers. On the ground floor was a byre or dungeon ; above, a room for servants ; and still higher, the dwelling-room of the family ; a corkscrew stair led to the top, and the bottom was closed by an iron door or gate. The wealthier nobles lived in castles consisting of a tower broader and loftier, surrounded by an enclosing wall for defending the out-build- ings, forming a court or barm-kyne, into which cattle could be driven. Such castles are Borthwick, Crichton, Hermitage (stronghold of the Douglases), Craigmillar, Doune, Castle Campbell, and Caer- laverock, etc. § 3. Places of Interest. Langholm. — Scenery of the Esk ; Penton Linns. Steele Road. — Hermitage Castle. Riccarton Junct. — Pictish ditch or Catrail. Hawick. — Moothill ; Branksome Tower ; Harden Castle ; Minto House and Crags ; Euberslaw. Nezvton St. BoswelVs. — Eildon Hills ; Dryburgh Abbey. Melrose. — Abbey ; Abbotsford ; Eildon Hills ; SmaUholm Tower. Tijne Head. — Crichton Castle ; Borthwick Castle. Dalhousie. — Newbattle Abbey. Jedburgh. — Abbey ; Ferniehirst ; scenery of the Tweed and Jed. Kelso. — Abbey ; Bridge ; Floors Castle ; Ednam ; Stichell Linn ; Hume Castle. Coldstream. — Flodden Field ; Tw^izell Castle ; Ladykirk Church ; Norham Castle. Berivick. — View of Tweed valley, from the Ely. Stat. ; Railway Bridge ; Castle Walls ; Halidon Hill. Reston-Coldingham. — Abbey Ruins ; St. Abb's Head ; Fast Castle. Cockburnspath. — Tower ; Pease Burn and Bridge. North Berwick. — Law ; Dirleton and Tantallon Castles ; Bass Rock. Tyninghame. — Park ; Church. Haddington. — Church ; Gilford Castle ; grounds of Lennoxlove. Longniddry.- — Seton House ; Chapel. Musselburgh. — Pinkie House. Ecclefechan. — Burnswark ; Repentance Tower. Lochmaben. — Castle ; Lake ; Jardine Hall (fossil footprints). Mo/a^.— Gallows Hill ; Devil's Beef Tub ; Grey Mare's Tail ; St. Mary's Loch ; Loch of the Lowes ; Hogg's Monument. Sijmiwjton. — Tinto ; Fatlips Castle. ^ 6 § 3. Places of Interest. Sect. I. Midcalder. — Calder House ; Dalmahoy Rocks. Selkirk. — Town-hall ; Newark Castle. Ettrick. — Tushielaw Castle ; Thirlestane Castle ; Faiiy Stack. Lanark. — Falls of Clyde ; St. Kentigern's ; Cartland Crags. Douglas. — Clmrcli and Monuments of Douglases ; Castle. Braidwood. — Craignethen Castle. EutJmvell. — Cross in Manse Garden ; Comlangan Castle and Stone. Dumfries. — Burns' House ; his Grave and Mausoleum ; Lincluden Abbey ; Caerlaverock Castle ; Maiden Bower Crags ; Ellisland Farm ; scenery of the Nith ; Criffel ; New Abbey. ThornhiU. — Drumlanrig ; Tibber's Castle. Mauchline and Kilmarnock.- — Both associated with Burns. Dalbeattie. — Granite quarries ; Moot of Urr ; Munches. Castle-Douglas. — Carlingwark Loch ; Threave Castle. Kirkcudbright. — St. Mary's Isle ; scenery of the Dee ; Church ; Gatehouse-of-Fleet ; Dundrennan Abbey. NeiDton-Stewart. — Loch Trool. Wigtown. — Torhouse Circles. Garlieston. — Galloway House ; Cruggleton Castle. TVhithorn. — St. Ninian's Chapel. Glenluce. — Abbey. Castle Kennedy and Loch Inch. — Lord Stair's Gardens and Pinetum. Stranraer. — Mull of Galloway ; Craigcaffie Castle. Ballantrae. — Glen App ; coast scenery to Girvan. Girvan. — Ailsa Craig ; Turnberry Castle ; Shanter Farm. Maybole. — Tolbooth ; the Tower ; Crossraguel Abbey ; Dunure Castle ; Culzean Castle. Ayr. — '' Twa Brigs ;" Alio way Kirk ; Burns' House ; Brig o' Doon. Dalmellington. — Defile of the Ness leading to Loch Doon. Kilwinning. — Priory ; Eglinton Castle. Paisley. — Abbey ; Museum ; Shawl- weaving ; Stanley Castle ; Mearns Castle. Edinburgh. — Princes St. and Gardens ; Scott's Monument ; Museum of Antiquities and National Gallery of Paintings ; Calton Hill ; Castle ; Assembly Hall ; Grassmarket ; St. Giles's ; Parliament House ; Canongate ; Cowgate ; Holyrood Abbey and Palace ; Salis- bury Crags ; Heriot's Hospital ; Greyfriars' Churchyard ; University ; Museum of Science and Art ; High School ; Botanic Gardens ; Donald- son's Hospital ; Leith Harbour ; Granton Pier ; Craigmillar Castle. Dalkeith. — Palace ; Gardens and Park ; LassM^ade ; Hawthornden ; Boslin Chapel ; Castle. Peebles. — Neidpath Castle ; Horsburgh Castle. Innerleithen. — Caerlee Fort ; Purvis Hill terraces ; Traquair House ; Elibank Tower. Pennicuik. — House ; Pentland Hills ; Habbie's How. S. Scotland. Boutes a, 1. — London to Edinhicrgk E U T E S. ROUTE A. London to Edinburgli (Leith), By Sea. Swift and comfortable steamers sail twice a week, Wednesday and Saturday morning, from Irongate AVharf to Leith, and from St. Kathe- rine's Steam "Wharf to Granton, average passage 36 hours. Fares : — 1st cabin, 15s. ; 2d cabin, 12s. The traveller by this route (and if the sea is tolerably calm no route is plea- santer) will obtain a good view of the eastern coast of England. The steamer gives the flat shores of Essex a tolerably wide berth, but approaches land more closely when off Suffolk and Norfolk. In succession the fol- lowing distant views present them- selves ; — Lowestoft. Yarmouth town. Cromer Cliffs. Flamborough Head. Filey Bay. Scarborough and its Castle. Eobin Hood's Bay. Whitby. Tynemouth. Coquet Island. Bamborough Castle. Feme Island and Grace Darling's Lighthouse. Holy Island (Lindisfarne). St. Abb's Head (Ete. 4). Tantallon Castle aod Bass Eock. J^orth Berwick Law (Ete. 4). Isle of May and Inchkeith (on right). Granton Pier or Leith, by rail to Edinburgh. The distance by land from London to Edinburgh is performed hij Train — London and IST. AVestern (401 m.) or Great Northern (397 m.) Lines — in lOi hrs., leaving London at 10 A.M., reaching Edinburgh at S.25, Glasgow at 8. 30. ROUTE 1. Carlisle to Edinburgh, by Liddes- dale, Hawick (Dryburgh), Mel- rose, Abbotsford, and Gala- shiels— Rail. 9Sj m. 7 trains daily, in 3 to 4| hrs. This line of rly., belonging to the X. British Company, is usually known as the Waverleij Route, from its pass- ing through the district associated with Sir Walter Scott and his writ- ings. The portion of the rly. be- tween Carlisle and Hawick is essen- tially a border line, and was made in 1854. Quitting the Citadel Stat, at Car- lisle {Hotel, County, very comfort- able), we pass in succession (on right) the Cathedral, Castle, and the river Eden ; then, crossing at a high level the Caledonian Ely., stretch over the plain between the Esk and Eden, and pass Harker and Lineside sta- , tions to I 10 m. LoNGTO^^'^^ Junct. with the j Gretna and Annan branch (Ete. 9). Eail to Glasgow and Stirling (Ete. 5). From the nature of the alluvial flats that bound the Solway Firth and its tributaries, a fine distant view is obtained of the hills in the neigh- bourhood of Langholm and Eskdale. Longtoicn is an ancient border town in Cumberland, placed on the left bank of the Esk, which is there a con- siderable stream. A market has been Route 1. — Carlisle to Edinburgh — Langholm. Sect. I. held here since Henry III.'s time, and it is somewhat celebrated for its supply of cranberries, which are sent to London during the season in large quantities. There is not much to be seen except the old parish ch. of Arthurct, of the early part of the 17th cent, which is outside the town. 12 m. Scotch D]]ke Stat. On the opposite side of the Esk are the Avoods and mansion of Nethcrhy, the seat of Sir r. U. Graham, Bart. The scenery improves rapidly, and becomes very j)icturesque at 14m. Pvidclmgs Junct. Stat., Avhere a branch line is given ofi' to Lang- holm and Eskdale. The view of the village and church of Canobic on the left is charming. The main line runs up the valley of the Liddel, which at this point joins with the Esk. Here the valley of the Esk opens out, and a branch rly. runs up it to (7 m.) Langholm. Bail (7 m.) to Langlwhn. [The drive by the banks of the Esk to LangJioIm (7 m.) and thence down the Teviot to Hawick, is far prettier than the journey by the r\j., which keeps the high ground on the left bank of the river, so as to accom- modate the collieries in Canobie par- ish. These collieries are situated upon the middle series of coal-mea- sures, overlaid by Permian strata, sections of which may be seen at Eiddings Junct., Penton, Carwinlay Burn, and Canobie Stat. The banks of the Esk in this neighbourhood are steep and precipitous ; one rock in particular is named GilnocMes Gar- den, and is said to have been a fa- vourite haunt of Johnnie Armstrong, the famous Border riever, and cap- tain of Mosstroopers, whose sti'ong- hold, the Tower of HoUoics, a square Peel, 70 ft. high, is about 2 m. from Canobie. Laivjholm Terminus. This is a thriving border town, with a suburb called New Langholm, on the old high rd. between Carlisle and Ber- wick, Avhere the Ewes Water falls into the Esk. It is an industrious place, and a good deal of woollen plaiding is woven here. It possesses a library, to which Telford, the engineer, be- queathed £1000. The scenery of the hills around is picturesque, although they have the rounded monotonous form characteristic of S. Scotland. On White Hill to the E. of the town is a Monument in memory of Sir John Malcolm, Governor of Bombay, vis- ible even from the Waverley line. He was one of ten sons of an Eskdale farmer, born at Burnfoot, a little way from Langholm. To his brother. Admiral Sir Pulteney Malcolm, there is a statue in the ]\Iarket-place. Two other brothers contributed to render the name illustrious and to do honour to their native valley. In the im- mediate neighbourhood are Langholm Lodge, a seat of the Duke of Buc- cleuch, the border tower of Lang- holm, and slight remains of Waiich- ope Castle, situated on the water of the same name. Langholm is cele- brated for its sheep fairs, an enor- mous number of sheep being annually sent from it into England ; and it is also the seat of a considerable woollen trade. The neighbourhood of Langholm is intimately associated with the memory of Johnnie Armstrong, the Border hero, who in the days of James V. levied black mail as far as Newcastle. As old Lindsay of Pit- scottie tells us, " He rode ever with 24 able gentlemen well horsed ; yet he never molested any Scottisliman. " The king, under the pretext of a hunting party, made an expedition against Armstrong, enticed him over to Caerlanrig, and hanged him and 36 of his accomplices there, notwith- standing many tempting offers made by the culprits to procure a respite. A few miles above Langholm is S. Scotland. Route 1. — Mangerton Toiver — Hermitage. the solitary liamlet of Westerkirk, the birthplace of Telford, whose father was a shex^herd on the banks of the Meggat. ] From Eiddings the main line keeps high ground, overlooking the Licklel, which for 7 m. above this divides England from Scotland. Its serpentine reaches are embowered in woods, Avhile an occasional homestead on the banks above gives relief to the otherwise bleak-looking country at the foot of the moorland ranges. At Penton Stat., 17 m., and Kers- Jiope, 21 m., where we enter Scot- land, the scenery on the right closes in, and the grey table-lands that skirt the Cheviots begin to show themselves, varied by an occasional " burn" that joins the Liddel through a tangled ravine. At Penton Linns is a wild and rapid reach of the river, which flows through a narrow chan- nel between the rocks. 24 m. Neivcastlcton Stat, is a Lid- desdale town of two streets, founded, 1793, in a more convenient spot than Old Castleton, of which only the church remains, 2 ni. off. Liddesdale, it will be remembered, was the country of Dandie Dinmont, and its scenery is admirably portrayed in "Guy J\Iannering:" " Hills as steep as they well can be without being precipitous. Their sides often pre- sent gullies, down which after heavy rains tlie torrents descend with great fury. Some dappled mists float along the peaks of the hills ; through these fleecy streams a hundred little rills descend the mountain sides, like silver threads." 1| m. S. of Kewcastleton is Man- gerton Toicer, on the left bank of the Liddel, another of the Arm- strong border residences ; and on the opposite hill once dwelt Jock o' the Side, a nephew of the Laird of Man- gerton, and, according to Sir Richard Maitland, of very doubtful reputa- tion : — " He is well kenn'd, Johne of the Syde, A greater thief did never ryde ; He never tires For to break bj'res, O'er mure and mires Ower glide ane guide." In a raid by the liiddesdale men Jock o' the Side was taken prisoner ; but was rescued by his cousins of Mangerton, knoAvn as the Laird's Jock and the Laird's Wat. Near the roadside, at Milnholm, is a stone cross, with a sword and some letters inscribed on it. The cross marks the spot where the body of one of the owners of Mangerton, who was barbarously murdered by Lord Soulis, was rested on its way to in- terment. 2 m. to the N. of Newcastleton the Hermitage Avater joins the Liddel. The railway crosses the valley by a bridge, and keeps the high ground on the right bank of the Liddel. 27 m. at Old Castleton, is the site of Liddel Castle, built by IJanulph de Soulis in the 12th cent. 29 m. Steele Road Stat, [is about 4 m. from the *Castle of Hermitage, one of the most interesting historic edifices on the Border, on Hermitage Water, the grand stronghold of the Douglases, and called by Burton the oldest baronial building in Scotland. Descending to the valley through which the Hermitage AVater passes, the tourist can get the key at the gamekeeper's house. Cross the bridge, and take the road to the right. At the next bridge take the road to the left. Hermitage stands in a dreary open plain, and was protected on one side by the stream and on the other by a fosse. The exterior, which is perfect, consists of 4 rectangular towers, one of which, on the S.W., is much larger than the others. These towers are connected on the N. and 10 Route 1. — Carlisle to Edinburgh. Sect. I. S. sides by a lofty curtain at their interior angles, on the E. and W. by a lower curtain in the same position, while the exterior angles are also connected by an arch which serves to support the lofty corbelled parapet that crowns the whole building. It is believed to have been built, 1244, by Walter Comyn, Earl of Monteith, and became the gi'eat stronghold of the powerful Comyns. One of this family, "the Wizard" (Lord Soulis), so irritated his vassals by his cruelty, that they rebelled against him, and actually boiled him to death — the idea of this punishment having been put into their heads by the king, Avho peevishly said, when complained to, " Boil him if you please, but let me hear no more of him." The building of such a men- acing stronghold so near the English frontier was one of the grievances of King Henry III., which served as a pretext for invading Scotland, 1244. Having been taken by the English in the reign of David II., it Avas re- covered from them by the prowess of William Douglas, called the Black Knight of Liddesdale, the natural son of the good Sir James. It was to this place that he carried oflf Sir Alexander Kanisay, and left him to die of starvation, the unfortunate man supporting life for seventeen days by some corn Avhich fell from a granary above, through chinks in the floor, into his dungeon. The Douglas family was so powerful that no notice was taken of this atrocious act. Queen Marj^ accompanied by Mur- ray, visited Bothwell here, while he was suffering from a wound, soon after Rizzio's murder. (See Jed- burgh. ) Nine Stane Fdg, on which it is said that Lord Soulis was boiled, is a de- clivity 1 m. long and 4 broad, de- scending to the water of Hermitage. There is an Old Stone Circle on it, once of 9 stones, now of 5, 2 of which are pointed out as having supported the caldron. Lord Soulis was sus- pected of witchcraft (see Scott's "Minstrelsy") — " Lord Soulis he sat in Hermitage Castle, And beside him Old Redcap sly." The pedestrian may make his way from Hermitage across the hills to Hawick, about 15 m.] After leaving Liddesdale the coun- try becomes very desolate as the rly. ascends to 32 m. EiccARTON Junct., where the Border Union Line from New- castle and Hexham joins the North British. The summit level is gained by a tunnel under the ridge of hills where the Pictish Ditch or Catrail was carried from Peel Fell on the Border to Borthwick Water on the N.W., and from thence into the neighbourhood of Galashiels, It con- sisted of a double fosse and vallum, supported by a number of interme- diate forts, and was constructed by the Romanised Britons dwelling on the Tweed, as a protection against the Anglian invasions. The Catrail is well seen beyond Eiccarton, under the curiously shaped hill called Maiden's Paps. With a rapid de- scent down the Hawick side of the Fells, the rly. enters the valley of the Slitrig, passing 41 m. Stobbs, the picturesque seat of Sir Wm. Elliot, Bart., whose ancestor, Sir Gilbert, was created a knight by the king, 1643. 45 m. Hawick Stat. At the junc- tion of the Slitrig with the Te^iot is the thriving town and Pari, burgh of Haifick (Inns : Tower, Crown), which, if jiopulation decided its rank, would be capital of Roxburghshire, having 11,355 inhab., while Jedburgh has 4000. It is an uninteresting town. The manufactures principally con- sist of woollens, yarns, stockings, etc. The manners and customs of the in- habitants are somewhat savage. At S. Scotland. Boute 1. — EatvkJc — Branksome Tower. 11 an election they show their contempt for an unpopular candidate by sint- ting upon him ! They assisted in stoning and hooting Sir Walter Scott in his old age at Jedburgh, 1831. The streets are regular, but not cleanly. Down to 1872 no proper sewers existed in the place. The Einscopal Ch. , from designs by G. G. Scott, is a fine Gothic building. The parish ch., surmounted by a tall square tower, was the scene of the cap- ture of Sir Alexander Ramsay by Sir Wm. Douglas, who confined him in Hermitage Castle, and there starved him (ante). The only objects of antiquity in the town are the Moot Hill, a tumu- lus about 300 ft. in circumference and 30 ft. in height, the old place of meeting of the Court of the Manor, and the Tower inn, once the resi- dence of the Barons of Drumlanrig, which still shows traces of its former strength. It was the only house not burned down by Sussex in 1570. Rail to Edinburgh, 53 m. ; Car- lisle, 45 ; Melrose, lo^. Excursions — a. Up the Te\^ot to Branksome, 3 m., and Harden ; h. Minto Crags, 54 m. ; c. Jedburgh, 11 m. (Route 2). Ig m. on the Langholm road is Goldielands, a well-preserved border fortress of the clan of Scott, the last of whom was, for " March treason," hanged over his own gateway. At this point the Teviot is joined by the Borthwick Water. 3 m. from Hawick is a, Branksome Tower, an ancient possession, from the middle of the 15th cent., of the Scotts, Barons of Buccleuch, but chiefly known as the principal scene of Sir Walter Scott's " Lay of the Last Minstrel" : — " Nine-and-twenty knights of fame Hung their shields in Branksome Hall ; Nine-and-twenty squires of name Brought them their steeds to bower from stall ; Nine-and-twenty yeomen tall Waited duteous on them all ; They were all knights of mettle true, Kinsmen to the bold Buccleuch." Its present aspect is that of a modern house, and it is the residence of the Duke's chamberlain (W. Ogil- vie, Esq.) Some years ago, on the return of the Duke of Buccleuch from Malta, whither he had gone for restoration of his health, a dinner was givf'n him in a pavilion erected at Branksome by lOOU of his tenantry, of whom about 300 were hereditary ; i.e., who from father to son had pos- sessed their farms since the days of the first Buccleuch. The older part of the building con- sists of a square tower, ending in an overhanging storey with a billet moulding. The rest of it seems to have been begun by Sir Walter Scott in 1571, and completed by his wife, Margaret Douglas. On returning from Branksome the tourist should keep the left bank of the Teviot, and cross the Borthwick Water by a wooden bridge. 2 m. farther on cross a burn, and take a road on right up the course of the stream to Harden Castle, the ancient seat of the Scotts of Harden, now represented by Lord Polwarth. A curious story exists of a child said to have been carried off" by the Scotts in one of their raids, who was christened by them "The Flower of Yarrow," and afterwards married the notorious AYat of Harden. His cus- tom was to subsist on the spoils of his freebooting until the serving up Qf a clean pair of spurs on a dish sig- nified the emptiness of the larder and the necessit}^ of a fresh adventure. The house is devoid of all architec- tural interest, but the situation is ver}^ romantic, on the brink of a deep glen overlooking the Borthwick, and resembling on a small scale Castle Campbell near Dollar. From Harden 12 Route 1. — CarUsh to Edinburgh — St. Boswells. Sect. I. a road on the left bank of the Borth- Avick leads direct to Hawick b. Minto Crags (see below). c. Jedburgh (Kte. 2). The ^'Silver Tcviot" rises from the slopes of the ridge of hills that form the northern boundary of Esk- dale, and receives in its course to Hawick the Allan and Borthwick Waters, besides some minor streams. Quitting the valley of the Teviot at Teviot Bank (E. Heron-Maxwell, Esq.) the rly. reaches 494 m. HassancUan Stat, a, corrup- tion of Hazeldean, once belonging to a family of Scotts. On right is Minto House (Earl of Minto). The grounds are open every week-day. The old ch. of Hassendean was de- molished in 1690. The scenery is very picturesque at Minto Crags, a precipitous escarpment overlooking the Teviot. A little to the S. is Denliolm, the 'birthplace of John Leyden, who was successively a clergyman, a doctor, and a professor of Eastern languages. He was a great friend of Sir Walter Scott's, and contributed to the " Min- strelsy of the Scottish Border;" an obelisk has been erected to his me- mory. Conspicuous from Denliolm is the eminence of Euhcrslaiv — " That lifts its head sublime, Rugged and hoaiy with the wrecks of time." Leyden. Some crags on the summit are called "Peden's Pulpit," from the fact that Alexander Peden, the cove- nanter, used to preach from them. Cavers House (J. Douglas, Esq.) is a large square building, erected about 1400, by Sir A. Douglas, and contains the banner carried before Douglas at the battle of Otterburn. 53. m. Soon after leaving Bclses Stat, the traveller gains a distant view of the triple heads of the Eildon Hills, which form the leading feature in the scenery of the district, and crosses the Ale Water, a picturesque- ly-wooded trout-stream which joins the Teviot near Ancrum. At 58 m. , Newtown St. Boswells Junction, two lines branch off — 1. through Earlston and Dunse, to join the N. British at Keston (Rte. 4) ; and 2. to Jedburgh and Kelso, where it forms a connection with the N. Eastern Rly. to Berwick (Rte. 2). The situation of Newtoivn St. Bosivells {Inns: Buccleuch Arms, — Railway) at the foot of the Eildon Hills, is very pretty. In feudal times this village contained ISBastel houses, which were destroyed by the English in the 16th cent. E. of the village are the hunting stables of the Duke of Buccleuch. On St. Boswells Green a great Sheep Fair is held in July. Overlooking the village, at a considerable height, is Eildon Hall (Lord Henry Scott), a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch. From the singular isolation and triple cone of these hills (respectively 1216, 1385, and 1327 ft. in height), they at once strike the attention of the traveller ; in addition to which, great interest has always attached to them from the tradition of the magic charm of ' ' the words which cleft Eildon Hills in three." "Michael Scott was once on a time much em- barrassed by an evil spirit, for whom he was under the necessity of finding constant employment. He com- manded him to build a ca^lld, or damhead, over the Tweed at Kelso ; it was accomplished in one night, and still does honour to the infernal architect's engineering skill. Michael next ordered that Eildon Hill, which was then a uniform cone, should be divided into three. Another night Avas sufficient to part its summit, as we now see it. At length the en- chanter conquered the indefatigable demon by employing him to make ropes out of sand." — W.S. These S.Scotland. Boide 1. — Eildon Hills — Dnjlmrgh Ahhey. 13 hills are also connected with the prophecies and sayings of Thomas of Ercildoune, usually known as "Thomas the Rhymer," who was supposed to have been carried cap- tive by the Queen of Elfland and detained for more than 3 years in the enchanted country within the hills. From the summit is a beautiful view extending over the counties of Eoxburgh and Selkirk. The antiquary will find on the northern cone a Camp defended by earthen ramparts. As a Eoman station it was known by the name of Trimou tium. Much of the interpretation of the Roman mili- tary movements depended on the identification of " Trimontium," usu- ally placed on the X, side of the Solway. Gen. V\.oj remarked that everything harmonised Avith the supposition that Trimontium was Old Melrose, under the Eildon Hills, and he gives in his Military Anti- quities a view of the hills from the place where the Roman road crosses the Cheviots on the way to the fortress. [Xewtown St. Boswells is distant about 2 m. from the ruins of Dry- hurgh Ahhey. '\ Follow the high road to St. Boswell's, and take the first turning to the left when past the turnpike. This lane leads down to the Tweed, which is crossed by a suspension bridge. Dryburgh {Inii : Melrose Abbey H. ) Adjoining the modern mansion of the Erskines, the ancient Ahhey of Dryburgh, of which there are still considerable remains, surrounded by yew-trees nearly as ancient, is charm- ingly situated on a semicircular piece of land, round which the Tweed sweeps broad and swift. It never was of great size or wealth, but almost every part of the monastic buildings is still represented by a fragment. It was founded in 1]44 by Hugh de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale (or, as some say, by his master, David I.), In 1-322 the abbey was burnt by Edward II., but was rebuilt soon after. In 1544 the English, under Sir Geo. Bowes and Sir Brian Latoun, again burnt it, and in all probability it was never rebuilt. Of the Church, which was ori- ginally 190 ft. long by 75 broad, there is left only part of the outer walls and the bases of the piers, the N". transept, with its E. aisle, the western entrance, and the original chapel of St. Moden. The IST. tran- sept aisle, known as St. Mary's, is the burying-place of the Erskines ; and here, too, are buried Sir Walter Scott and his wife (under one monu- ment), his son, and his son-in-law, John Lockhart, as also his ancestors, the Haliburtons of Xewmains. This chapel opens into the choir by 2 pointed arches, above which are quatrefoil openings, and a triforium gallery. The Chax)tcr -house, which is on a lower level than the rest of the ch. , is still entire. It is a very plain long building, with a simple vaulted roof, and the sedilia, on the E. side, are formed of Romanesque arches, inter- laced. St. Moden's chapel inter- venes between the chapter-hoiise and transept. Part of the walls of the refectory are left, and its gable end is still decorated with a rose window. Next to the refectory is the abbot's parlour. The arms of the last abbot, James Stewart, are carved over the staircase leading to the dungeon, where refractory brethren were shut up. At the dissolution of religious houses the Dryburgh estates were granted to John, Earl of Mar. He gave it to his 8rd son, from whom it descended, after being sold and re- purchased, to the family of the Earl of Buchan. Dryburgh House, in whose grounds the ruins stand, be- longs to the Hon. Mr. Erskine. A fixed charge is made for admission to them — apply at the Lodge. On a neighbouring hill, overlook- ing the Tweed, is an atrocious red 14 Route 1. — Carlisle to Ediiiburgh — Melrose. Sect. I. sandstone effigy, put up by a former Earl of Buchan as an effigy of Wallace. That hero suffers much from the clumsy worship of his Scotch adorers. The tourist, instead of returning across the ferry to N ewtown St. Bos- wells, may keep along the N. bank of the Tweed to Melrose ; but as this road is generally the subject of an excursion from Melrose, it is given under that place. (See below. ) [A third excursion may be made from Newtown St. Boswells to An- crum Moor, which lies about 4 m. on the road to Jedburgh, passing St. Boswells Green, celebrated for its July fair, which attracts flock-masters and wool-merchants from all parts. The name of St. Boswell was derived from St. Boisil, once a prior of Mel- rose. Between it and the Tweed is Les- sudden, an old border house, "the small but stately and venerable abode of the Lairds of Eaeburn " (E. Scott, Esq.) From behind the village, at the Braeheads, the tourist obtains a lovely view of Dryburgh Abbey. The Waterloo inllar will be ob- served to the left on the top of Peniel Heugh, on which there are a couple of camps. 4 m. Ancrum Moor, where in 154.5 the Earl of Angus and Norman Leslie defeated 3000 English under Lord Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, as they were returning laden with plunder from a devastating inroad. The timely appearance on the field of Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, with a chosen body of retainers, decided the fortune of the day. Both Evers and Latoun being killed, the English were routed with great slaughter and loss of booty. 1. 6 m. from St. Boswells, nearly on the battlefield, on the N. bank of the Ale, is Ancrum House (Sir Wni. Scott, Bart.), destroyed by fire 1873, rebuilt in Scotch baronial style 1875, beyond which a road on 1. crosses the Ale Water to Hawick. In the neighbourhood are Chesters (W. Ogilvie, Esq.) and Kirklands (The Misses Richardson). The rocky banks of the Ale above AnciTim are excavated with caves, used as re- treats in time of war or invasion. One of them was the favourite retreat of Thomson the poet. Passing rt. Mount Teviot, the seat of the Marquis of Lothian, and cross- ing the Teviot, the tourist enters 8 m. Jedburgh (Rte. 2).] Distances of Neivtoivn St. Boswells from— Melrose, 3 m.; Dryburgh, 2 m. ; Jedburgh, 154 ; Hawick, 12 ; Lillyard's Edge, 4 ; Eildon Hills, 2. From Newtown St. Boswells the line takes a curve, following the contour of the valley of the Tweed, and leaves on right Old Melrose, the site of the original abbey of St. Aidan of Lindisfarn. The situation is peculiar, the river surrounding it as at Dryburgh. 61 m. Melrose Stat. {Inns : George, King's Arms) is a small town of 1141 inhab., having nothing at- tractive in its streets or buildings, but it is surrounded by neat villas, charmingly situated at the foot of the Eildon Hills, and overlooks the Tweed. There are Established, Free, and Episcopal churches. In the ]\larket-place is a stone cross bearing the arms of Scotland. Melrose is celebrated for "the most beautiful not only of the Scottish Second Pointed churches, but of all the northern fanes of whatever age. The splen- dour of middle-age romance which Scott has thrown around the place has almost obliterated its older and holier renown, when it was described by Bede as the home of the meek Eata, the prophetic Boisil, the aus- tere Cuthbert ; when, with Colding- ham, and Abercorn, and Tyninghame, it was the lamp of that Anglo- Saxon Lothian, which, deriving its own faith from lona, sped the glad S. Scotland. Boute 1. — Melrose. 15 gift to many an English province, and even sent a missionary across tlie seas to become the apostle of the Austrasian tribes on the Meuse, the Waal, and the Rhine." — Quarterhj Review. 5 minutes' walk from the station through the town, descending the hill, brings yon to the entrance of the Abbey, at its AY. end. The W. front is entirely gone. The building which we now see standing in such venerable ruin is the third abbey — the iirst having been founded at Old Melrose (see ante), on the decay of which King David I. built a second in 1136, and filled it with Cistercian monks from Rievaulx. Melrose lay on the high- way of English invasion, and in con- sequence the Abbey was destroyed over and over again, notably in 1322, by the troops of Edward II. King Eobert the Bruce at once set to work to repair the damage, and devoted £2000 (a large sum in those days) to this purpose. It was again destroyed at the fruitless inva- sion of Scotland by Richard II. 1385, when the English entered Scotland on the eastern side and the Scots entered England on the west, each army afraid of the other, and intent only on plunder and destruction. In the existing ch. there is scarcely anything older than the 15th cent, say about 1400. It is interesting to find in the S. transept a monumental tablet recording the name of the architect or master-mason, one John Morro or Murray by name, by whom probably it was rebuilt. This is the work now standing, though much altered by the restorations which subsequent injuries rendered neces- sary. In 1545 it was plundered by the English under Evers and Latoun, and soon afterwards it received more serious damage from the Earl of Hertford. Its next enemies were the Reformers, and since then it has been plundered considerably for the sake of the materials. At the disso- lution of the religious houses Mary bestowed the abbey and its property upon Bothwell. At his proscription it reverted to the Crown, and, after passing through many different hands, is now the property of the Duke of Buccleuch. WEST END ENTRANCE FROM THE TOWN PLAN OF MELROSE ABBEY. a E. Window, Bruce's heart. 6 Douglas Burial Chapel. c Michael Scott, the Wizard. d Lord Evei-s. e King Alexander II. /Morro's (the architect) Monument. N. Chapter-House. The ch., about 250 ft. long, con- sists in plan of a presbytery at the E. end, the width of the central aisle, of a choir with aisles of 6 bays, extending 3 bays beyond the tower W. as far as the low stone rood- screen of late date, which divided it from the nave. The nave extended over 5 bays. The transepts had E. 16 Boute 1. — Carlisle to Edinlurgh — Melrose. Sect. I. aisles. From tlie tower to the W. end along the S. side of the nave extended a row of 8 side chapels separated by buttress Avails, and be- tween these chapels and the central aisle ran a peculiar narrow S. aisle, richly gi-oined, of wliich 3 bays re- main. The IST. aisle was much wider, but has no chapels. Every part of the ch. will rei)ay careful study. The remains of stone vault- ing over the E. end side aisjes and chapels is very elaborate, and the bosses and capitals of columns dis- play in their intricate and delicate foliage, especially in the leaves of curly kale, the proverbial skill and fancy of the Scotch masons. The nave is completely spoilt by some heavy piers and circular arches which were put up in 1618, when the abbey was fitted up as a Presbyterian eh., and which obscure the elegant Pointed arches of the original struc- ture. The S. aisle is divided into a series of chapels, each serving as the burial-place of some family. In the .S*. transept is one of the finest loindows. It is 24 ft. high and 16 broad, divided into 5 lights, and ornamented at the top with flowing tracery of much elegance. It ought to be viewed from the outside, in combination with the door and panelled Avails 'and buttresses. In the churchyard oiitside is the grave of Sir David Brewster. We turn next now to the East end. " By a steel-clenched postern door, They enter'd now the chancel tall, The darken'd roof rose high aloof, On pillars lofty, light, and small : The key-stone thatlock'd each ribbed aisle. Was a fleur-de-lys, or a quatre-feuille : And corbels were carved grotesque and grim ; And the pillars, with cluster'd shafts so trim. With base and with capital flourish'd around, Seem'd bundles of lances which garlands had boimd." The principal beauty of the chancel is the E. windozv of 5 lights, with its exquisite tracery. This approaches the Perp. style more closely than anything in the abbey, and is almost the only example of the style in Scotland. This windoAV, and the E. end adjoining, date probably from the reign of James IV., who married Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. Sir Walter Scott's description of this window is very poetical and accu- rate, except in the doubtful use of the word " oriel." "The moon on the east oriel shone Through slender shafts of shapely stone By foliaged tracery combined ; Thou wouldst have thought some fairy's hand 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand, In many a freakish knot had twined ; Tlien framed a spell, when the work was done, And changed the willow wreaths to stone." Lay of Last Minstrel. Directly in front of it lies (it is said) the heart of Robert Bruce, which Douglas attempted in vain to carry to the Holy Land. A slab of dark marble, spotted with mountain- limestone corals, is pointed out as covering the graA'c of Alexander II. Against the opposite wall is the grave of James, 2nd Earl of Douglas, slain at Otterburn, 1388, also of Sir William Douglas, the knight of Liddesdale. There is also the tomb of Lord Evers, who was killed at the battle of Ancrum Moor, 1445, after plundering the abbey ; and close to it the supposed tomb of Michael Scott the Wizard. " Before their eyes the Wizard lay, As if he had not been dead a day." But others assert it to be the tomb of Sir Pirian Latoun, colleague of Evers, and slain along with him. On the N. of the nave is all that is left of the Cloisters, including a very rich circular-headed doorwa)^ of late date, the one through which William of Deloraine passed into the ch. This and an elecjant arcading S. Scotland. Route 1. — Smailholm — Abhotsford. 17 attached to the transept wall con- stitute one of the beauties of the Abbey. " He led the way Where, cloistered round, the garden lay. Spreading herb^, and flowerets bright, Glistened with the dew of night ; Nor herb, nor floweret, glistened there. But was carved in the cloister-arllhes as fair."—Scott's Lay. Excursions : — a. To Dry burgh, 6 m. ; b. Smailholm, 8 m. ; Kelso, 14 m. ; c. Abbotsford, 3 m. Distances. — Hawick, 16 m. ; New- town St. Boswells, 3 ; Earlston, 4^ ; Lauder, 10 ; Galashiels, 4 ; Selkirk, lOi [a. The road to Dryburgh and Kelso crosses the Tweed by a chain bridge to the hamlet of Gattonside, 1 m. , and then turns to the right to Leader Foot, where the Leader, a river rising in the Lammermuir Hills and flowing past the towns of Lauder and Earlston (Ete. 3), joins the Tweed. Allerly, near Gattonside, was the seat of the late Sir David Brewster. On the other side the road to Dryburgh turns off to right, passing Gladswood. From the top of the hill there is an exquisite view of the Tweed winding round a small peninsula just below, emerging here from a patch of wood, there dis- appearing into another, while at some distance, forming the opposite side of the valley, rise the Eildon Hills. Bemerside (now occupied by Lord Jerviswoode) is the seat of the family of Haig, who have held it for more than 700 years, according to a prophecy of Thomas the Ehymer : — " Betide, betide, whate'er betide, Haig shall be Haig of Bemerside." On right, overlooking the Tweed, is a rude statue of Wallace. 6 m. Dryburgh Abbey, described p. 13.] h. The road to Kelso turns off at Leader Bridge, the road speedily ascends high ground to the village of 8 m. Smailholm, 1 m. to the S. of which, overlooking a very extensive {ScotJand\ tract of country, stands Smailholm Tower, the scene of Sir Walter Scott's balled "The Eve of St. John." It belonged formerly, like all this dis- trict, to the Pringles ; but is now the property of Lord Polwarth. Sir Walter's grandfather — "the thatched mansion's grey-hair'd sire " — lived at Sandyknowe, a farmhouse close by, where the poet spent part of his childhood. The Tower is a lofty but plain building, in a ver}^ ruinous state : — " Then rise those crags, that mountain tower, "Which charm'd my fancy's wakening hour It was a barren scene, and wild, Where naked cliffs were rudely piled ; But ever and anon between Lay velvet tufts of loveliest green ; And well the lonely infnnt knew Recesses where the wallflower grew. . . And still I thought tliat shatter'd tower The mightiest work ot human power ; And marvell'd as the aged hind With some strange tale bewitch'd my mind." — Marmion, Introd. to Canto iii. Even were the associations not so interesting, the view from Smailholm would be a sufhcient inducement to visit it, as " it takes in a district in which every field has its battle and every rivulet its song. " From Smailholm the road gra- dually falls to 14 m. Kelso (Rte. 2). c. To Abbotsford, 3 m., the best way for pedestrians is to pass down the main street of Melrose, and then take a path between the two kirks. This path runs along the high bank overhanging the river, and is at once the shortest and most picturesque. The distance can easily be walked in I of an hour. The village of Darnick is passed on the left, as also Chief swood, a pleasant little cottage, in which Mr. and Mrs. Lockhart lived during the lifetime of Sir Walter, and where he himself was accustomed to spend many a holi- day after the fatigues of authorship. Darnick Toioer, a Border Peel or b2 L Route 1. — Ahhotsford. Sect. I. "Strength," in tlie liaralet of tlie same name, was the ancient resi- dence of the Lairds of Darnick, and contains a museum of Border anti- quities. Sir Walter Scott obtained the nickname of the "Duke of Dar- nick," from his excessive fondness for the place. At Huntle}^ Burn (Lord H. Kerr) the path joins the main road, and at the turnpike the visitor must turn to the left, the road on right leading to Melrose Bridge and Galashiels. The entrance to Abbotsford (Hon. Mrs. ]\Iaxwell Scott) is by a small postern in the wall. There is admittance every day but Sunday, Christmas, and New Year's Day, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., or in winter till dusk. Fee Is. each. The house and grounds are thoroughly well kept, and the libe- rality of the owner in giving the public access to them deserves all praise. The many-turreted house is ill placed, close under the road, on a slope descending to the Tweed. It was originally a farmliouse, and owes its existence entirely to the poet, who prided himself on having planted almost every tree in the grounds. It is interesting not only for its founder's sake, but as an historic museum of (chiefly) national relics. Visitors enter by a small side door, and, having inscribed their names, are conducted to the Library of about 20,000 volumes. This was preserved as the best Memorial by the friends who wished after his death to do tlie poet honour, and has become an heir- loom in the family. Sir Walter by his will charged it with a legacy of £5000 to his younger children, which was defrayed by the subscrip- tion, thus preventing a sale. With this room is connected the Study in which the poet wrote, and which is little changed since his time. Open- ing from this is a small octagonal dressing-room, in wliicli are still preserved the stick with which he walked, the chair in which he wrote, and the identical clothes Avorn by him. The dining and drawing room (in which he died) contain many in- teresting relics, most of them pre- sents from those who admired his genius and patriotism. The noble bust by Chantrey is the finest and most exact likeness of Scott. Ammig the portraits are those of Oliver Cromwell, Claverhouse, Duke of Monmouth, Dryden, Prior, and Gay by Lely, Hogarth by himself, Sir Walter's son, and his great- grandfather, called " Beardie :" — " My great grandsire came of old, With amber beard and flaxen hair, And reverend apostolic air." — Marmion. He was a partisan of the Stuarts, and refused to shave till their resto- ration. The most interesting picture of the collection is one of Queen i\[ary's head, taken an hour after her execution. See also Napoleon's pen and Avriting-case, Queen Mary's seal. Rob Roy's purse and gun, Prince Charles's suuft'-box, Burns's toddy-tumbler, miniature of Sir Walter as a boy — his knife and fork and snuff-box ; the swords of ]\Ion- trose (given him by Charles I.) and of Prince Charles Steuart, Hofer's rifle, &c. The Armoury contains weapons of every age in the history of Scotland. Here, too, are the keys of the old Tolbooth, a good portrait of Prince Charlie, the pistols of Napoleon and of Claverhouse, and James IV.'s armour, swords used by a German executioner, thumbikins, and scold's bridle, claymores of the '45. The panelling of the entrance-hall Avas brought from the old palace of Dun- fermline. Round the cornice are the armorial bearings of the families who kept the Scotch Borders. The door- way is embellished with fossil stags'- horns, and on the outside the visitor should observe the door of the old Tolbooth of Edinburgh built up into the side of the house. Of late two starino; residences, the. S. Scotland. Route 1. — Ahhotsfmxl — Galashiels. 19 Castle of Glouroerem and another, have planted themselves on the banks of the TAveed, opposite Ab- botsford, thus inhumanly marring the privacy of Sir Walter's house. The Abbotsford estate comprises 1237 acres. A walk of a mile leads to Abbots- ford Ferry, stat. of the Selkirk Ely. (Rte. 6.) A charming ramble may be made up the Huntley Burn, which takes its rise in Cauldshiels haunted Loch, on the hill alcove, and flows through the Ehymer's Glen, so called because Thomas of Ercildoune is supposed to have met the Queen of the Fays in it. It abounds in examples of Sir Walter's taste as a planter. Equally pretty are the banks of the Allan Water, which joins the Tweed near the Pavilion, and which is the scenic type of " Glendearg " of the " Monas- tery. " Passing on right the Pavilion (Hon. Mrs. Henry), the Ely. crosses the Tweed near the village of Bridgend, the locale of the scene in the "Monastery" Avhere Father Philip met the White Lady of Avenel at the Ford. Lea^dng Abbotsford to the left (a slight glimpse only being obtainable), the rly. soon joins the Selkirk line, and reaches 65 m. Galashiels Junct. Stat. Galashiels {Inns : Commercial ; Maxwell's ; Abbotsford Arms), cele- brated for its woollen manufacture of tweeds and tartans, is a rapidly increasing place (Pop. 9678) and has drawn to itself all the trade of the district. There are now 20 large factories, and the yearly turnover of manufactured goods at Galashiels is considered to be worth 600, OOOZ. The town is prettily situated on both sides the Gala Water, which is the boundary between the counties of Roxburgh and Selkirk. Gala House is the seat of Hugh Scott, Esq. About 1 m. to the S. the anti- quary will find traces of the Catrail or Picts' Work Ditch, which runs from Mossilee S. to Rink Hill (638 ft.) and the Tweed. On this hill is a fort, strongly defended, and commanding the valley of the Tweed to its junction with the Gala. There are also a number of fortifications on Cauldshiels Hill above Abbotsford. Abbotsford is 2 m. distant. Rail to Selkirk, 6^ m. (Rte. 6) ; do. to Melrose, 4 m. ; to Innerleithen, Peebles, and Symington Stats, of Caledonian Rly. (Glasgow to Car- lisle), Rte. 16. The line now runs up the valley of the Gala, celebrated in an old ballad versified by Burns — " Braw, braw lads of Gala Water." The hills on either side rise to the heights of 1000 to 1400 ft. 67 m. left Torwoodlee (Jas. Pringle, Esq.), soon after which the tra- veller enters the county of Edin- burgh. The family of Pringle suf- fered for their adhesion to the Cove- nant in the time of Charles II. 69 m. Bowland' Stat., near to which on left is Bowland, the seat of W. S. Walker, Esq. On the banks of the Lugate, which flows into the Gala from the Moorfoot Hills on the left are the remains of two border towers. 72 m. Stow Stat., [distant from Lauder 6 m., to which there is a coach, an uninteresting little town. Lauder was the scene of one of those deeds of ferocity which abound in Scotch history. In 1482, James III. halted here with his army, on his way to the Borders. His nobles, disgusted w^ith the favour shown to Cochrane, the king's architect and minister, seized him, and without trial or process, hung him over the bridge in the king's sight. Archibald Douglas, who was the first to lay 20 Route 1. — Carlisle to Edinburgh. Sect. I. hands on him, was called from this "Bell the Cat." Adjoining Lauder is Thirlestane Castle, the residence of the Earl of Lauderdale, a spacious house of the date of Charles IL 1672, including a tower built by Edward L, in a fine park. The ch. was removed to make way for it. It contains family portraits of Secre- tary Maitland, of the Duke of L., Charles II. 's Minister, etc. 1 m. S. is Torsonce (H. Inglis, Esq.)] 76 m. Fountain Rail Stat., near are Burnhouse and Crookston (J. Borthwick, Esq.) On the banks of the Heriot Water, which flows in near Heriot Stat., 79 m. is Borthwick Hall, and a camp, in good preservation, overlooking Corsehope Burn. 82 m. at Tyne Head Stat, the rly. attains the summit-level and crosses the westerly flanks of the Lammer- muir Hills, which extend hence to the E. coast. About 1^ m. from the stat., on right, and the same from Fushie Bridge Stat, is the shell of CricMon Castle, built at diff'erent times :— " That castle rises on the steep Of the green vale of Tyne ; And far beneath, where slow they creep. From pool to eddy, dark and deep. Where alders moist, and willows weep, You hear her streams repine." The oldest part is a narrow keep^ or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser Scotch baron, and belongs to the 14th centy. The E. Avail of the court is raised upon a very peculiar open Venetian arcade, decorated with entablatures bear- ing anchors. All the stones of this front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections of which have an uncommonly rich appear- ance. The mouldings of the win- dows and other parts are profusely decorated with a variety of carvings. The property belonged originally to the Chancellor Sir William Crichton, ' ' who had a struggle for supremacy with the Douglases in the reign of James IL," from whom it was taken and dismantled by John Forrester, of Corstorphine. The ornamental part of the castle is evidently of a date subsequent to this. In 1483 it was garrisoned by Lord Crich- ton against King James III., whose displeasure he had incurred by seducing his sister Margaret (to whom he was afterwards married), in revenge, it is said, for the monarch having dishonoured his bed. At the forfeiture of the last and worst of that family it fell to the share of the Earl of Buccleuch. Here ]\Larmion is supposed to have been detained by Sir David Lindesay before he was allowed to see the Scottish host en- camped on the Borough Moor. In the 4th canto of " Marmion " there is a good description of the castle : — " Crichton ! though now thy miry court But pens the lazy steer and sheep, Thy turrets rude and totter'd Keep Have been the minstrel's loved resort. Oft have I traced within thy fort Of mouldering shields the mystic sense, Scutcheons of honour or pretence, Quarter'd in old armorial sort. Remains of rude magnificence. Nor wholly yet had time defaced Thy lordly gallery fair ; Nor yet the stony cord unbraced, "Whose twisted knots, with roses laced. Adorn thy ruin'd stair. Still rises unimpair'd below. The courtyard's graceful portico ; Above its cornice, row and row Of fair-hewn facets richly show Thy pointed diamond form." On the other side of the line, 14 m. W. of Crichton, equidistant between Tyne Head and Fushie Bridge Stats., is the ruined Castle of Borthwick, a massive gloomy double tower, 90 ft. high, 74 ft. by 68 ft. broad, and encompassed by a strongly fortified court, remarkable for the excellence of its masonry and the thickness of its walls. Built in the 15th cent., in form it is no- thing more than the old border keep, though on a larger scale than usual. ' ' The object of the Lord of Borthwick S. Scotland. Route 1. — Carlisle to Edinhurgh. 21 seems to have been to have all the space and accommodation of these cluster of edifices within the 4 walls of his simple square block, and thus this building is believed to be the largest specimen of that class of architecture in Scotland." — ■Billings. The great hall is remarkable for some very fine carving, particularly over the fireplace, and a canopied niche in the side wall. Hither fled Queen Mary and Bothwell, June 7, 1567, about a month after their marriage, on the alarm of the Confederate Lords gathering their force against them. But they were scarce safe within the walls when Lords Morton and Hume, with a hostile array, ap- peared before them. Lender these circumstances Bothwell first got clear away, and afterwards Mary (in the disguise of a page) to Dunbar. One of the rooms is still traditionally called the Queen's Eoom, In No- vember 1650 Cromwell, annoyed by a horde of moss -trooping marau- ders, who had taken post in Borth- wick, sent a missive to Lord Borth- wick, that if he did not "walk away, and deliver his house," he would " bend his cannon against him," a threat which proved eff"ec- tual, and prevented a bombardment. The parish ch., which was rebuilt in 1865, is dedicated to St. Kenti- gern, and has an apsidal chancel. The manse of Borthwick was the birthplace of Robertson the historian. 85 m. Fushie Bridge Stat. The Hills hereabout add much to the beauty of the view. 1 m. beyond is Gorebridge, to left of which, at 2 m. , is Arniston (Robert Dundas, Esq.), ancestors of whom were highly dis- tinguished in the 17th and 18th cents. A little farther S., on the banks of the South Esk, is the small ruined ch. of Temple, once a possession of the Knights Templars. About the same distance to the right of the stat. is a Roman Camp, and close to it are the ruins of Netvhyres Castle and the powder-mills of Stobbs. The rly., which has for some little distance been traversing the lime- stone strata, now enters the Midlo- thian coalfield, as is evident by the appearance of collieiies. Following the valley of the South Esk, we pass Dalhousie Castle (the Earl of Dal- housie), an old Scotch castle, changed into a mansion of no great beauty, but situated in the midst of lovely scenery ; and Cockpen, the ownership of which conferred on the possessor of Dalhousie the title of " The Laird of Cockpen, " whose wooing has been made famous by the song of that name. 89 m. Dalhousie Stat. On left 2 m. are the villages of Bonnyrigg and Lasswade (Rte. 16), and on right is Newbattle village, from whence a fine entrance, called King David's Gate, leads into Ncivbattle Ahhey, the beautiful seat of the Marquis of Lo- thian. The drive up to the house passes through a park with noble trees. At the bottom of the flower garden is a Beech tree, the finest in Britain, 100 ft. high, 120 yds. round. The bole measures 33 ft. The N. Esk runs close in front of the house. The abbey was originally founded by David L for a colony of Cistercian monks, the abbot at the time of the Reformation being one Mark Kerr, who, by opportunely changing his religion, secured the abbey lands to himself and his famil3^ The house has a very choice library, a collection of MSS. and paintings, including a Murillo and some Vandyks. 90 m. at EsKBANK a Junction is formed with a short branch to Dal- keith, and another with the Edin- burgh and Peebles line. The re- maining 8 miles between Eskbank and Edinbukgh Terminus, Rte. 4. 22 Route 2. — Neidown St. BosiveUs to Bemnck Sect. I. ROUTE 2. Newtown St. Boswells Junction to Berwick-on-Tweed, by Jed- burgli, Kelso (Flodden), and Coldstream. 114 m. to Kelso, 28 m. thence to Berwick ; 5 trains daily. A branch of the North British Ely. runs to Kelso, where it meets one of the North-Eastern Company to Berwick. There is a troublesome break at Kelso, as the trains thence do not agree. Although the line follows the course of the Tweed (right bank) pretty closely, it is but seldom that any of its beauties are visible, the river for the most part flowing in a deep vale, while tlie rly. keeps the high ground. The Tweed, which in importance is the fourth river in Scot- land, is generally supposed to be the boundary between the two kingdoms. It only does duty, however, in this respect for about 20 m. The country through Avhich the Tweed flows is called the " Merse, " perhaps a cor- ruption of " The Meres," in allusion to the times when, like the Carses of Gov water. Quitting the stat. at Newtown St. Boswells (Rte. 1), the rly. makes a considerable curve, leaving the Jedburgh Road, through Ancrum, to the right, and St. Boswells village, with Lessuddeu and Dryburgh Abbey to the left. 3 m. Maxton Stat. On left is the village overlooking a sweep of the Tweed. On the opposite bank, occupying a good portion of the peninsula, are the noble groves of Mertoun, the seat of Lord Polwarth. On left, between Maxton and Ruther- ford Stat., 5 m., is Littlcdean Toiver, a fortress belonging to the Keri-s of Nenthorn ; and in the far distance, conspicuous for very many miles, is Smailholm Tower (Rte. 1). A little beyond Rutherford, on the opposite bank of the Tweed, is Makerston House, the beautiful seat of the late Sir Thomas Macdougal Brisbane, who died in 1861, and now of Miss Hay-Macdougal. The scenery hereabout is highly romantic, especially at a spot called Troio Crags, where the trap rocks bordering each side of the river approach so closely that the visitor might jump across. In consequence of accidents, however. Sir T. Bris- bane caused one of the steps to be blown up, so as to deter any but the most daring. As the train approaches RoxBUKGH JuNCT. Stat., 9 m., beautiful glimpses are caught of the valley below, backed in the dis- tance by the woods and grounds of Floors Castle (Duke of Roxburghe). (See below.) A branch is here given oiT to Jed- burgh, while the main line crosses the Teviot by a viaduct of 14 arches, and proceeds to 12 m. Kelso Junct. Stat. (See below.) [To Jedburgh 7 ni., the line run- ning on the left bank of the Teviot. The village of Roxburgh, though prettily placed, contains no me- morials of its ancient importance, save the few mouldering shapeless walls of its castle, which can be visited with more convenience from Kelso. i m. left, on the opposite bank of the Teviot is Sunla^us, the Eliza- bethan residence of W. Scott Kerr, Esq. The banks of the river here are steep and rocky, and are perforated with caverns. Others are to be found in the neighbourhood at Gra- hamslaw, on the banks of the Kale Water. S. Scotland. Route 2. — Jedburgh. 23 2 m. KirkhanTc Stat, near which is a ruined tower. At Kalemouth, near this point, the Teviot is crossed by a chain bridge. The ch. at EcTc- ford near this, contains an iron collar known as the "jougs," which was fastened round the neck of offenders, who were sentenced to stand as in a sort of pillory. (See Index.) 5 m. Nishet Stat. To the right is the Waterloo Monument on Peniel- heiujh, erected by the Marquis of Lothian in 1815. In the course of another mile the line quits the vale of Teviot to ascend the tributary one of Jed. Very prettily situated, in a glen suri'ounded by wooded hills lies, 7 m. Jedburgh Stat., the county town of Roxburghshire. {Inns : Harrow ; Spread Eagle.) It stands in a well- sheltered valley, watered by the Jed, and has an air of antiquity. The royal castle stood upon the site of the present jail. It was surrendered to England as security for the ransom of William the Lion, and after its restoration became a favourite resi- dence of the Scottish monarchs till the English wars, when it was found to be too close to the border. In an old bastel-house still stand- ing in Queen Street, Queen Mary lived for some time, but not of her own accord. She had come hither to hold the assizes, when she heard that Eothwell had been wounded iu a personal encounter with John Elliott, of Park, a notorious border freebooter, and that he was lying sick at Hermitage Castle, 20 m. distant. She immediately set off on horseback to see him, and returned the same day, and was, in consequence of the fatigue, seized with a fever. A morass is still called " The Queen's Moss," into which her horse sank, and from which she was with diffi- culty extricated. The Court of Justiciary for the Borders Avas held here from early times. Its process must have been summary: hence the phrase "Jed- dart justice, " equivalent to what is now called "Lynch law" — hanging a man fii'st and trjing him after. In modern times the most memor- able achievement of its inhabitants (the scum of them, it is to be hoped, aided by the mob from Hawick) was to hoot, stone, and spit upon Sir AValter Scott in his old age, 1831. He records in his journal that he heard the cry, " Burk Sir Walter ! " raised against him. The giand old Abbey was founded by David I., for Canons Regular, brought from the Abbey of St. Quen- tin at Beauvais. The Abbey C/uirch, in general character, resembles Kelso, especially in its W. front, but is of rather later date. In plan it is different : it has a very long nave of 9 bays with aisles, one of the finest examples of the Romanesque in Scotland. The main arches are pointed, supporting a semicircular triforium arch inclosing 2 pointed arches, above which, in each bay, are 4 clerestory arches pointed, the middle ones open. The tower, 100 ft. high, is supported on circular arches. The choir consists of only 2 bays ; its massive cylinder piers are carried up to include the trifo- rium in a semicircular arch, em- bracing 2 pointed arches. The visitor should notice the Norm, mouldings of the great W. door, and also the doorway forming the S. entrance from the cloisters, which is elaborately decorated. Near this door is the grave of Lord Chan- cellor Campbell, and his amiable Lady, Stratheden. The N. tran- sept, which is the burying-place of the Kerrs, is a fine specimen of Dec, and the window contains geo- metrical tracery. ' ' The Abbey (diurches of Kelso and Jedburgh, as we now find them, belong either to the very end of the 12th, or beginning of the 13th cent. They display all the rude magni- ficence of the Norm . joeriod, used in 24 Route 2. — St. Bosivells to Berwick. — Jedburgh. Sect. I. this instance not experimentally, as was too often the case in England, but as a well-understood style, whose features were fully perfected. _ The whole was used with a Doric simpli- city and boldness which is very re- markable. Sometimes, it must be confessed, this independence of con- straint is carried a little too far, as in the pier arches at Jedburgh, where they are thrown across between the circular pillars without any subordi- nate shaft or apparent support. Here the excessive strength of the arch in great measure redeems it." — Fcr- gusson. The visitor should ascend the tower for the sake of the view. A Parish CJmrch was built 1873-75 by the Marq. of Lothian, at an ex- pense of £16,000 (Wyatt archt.) to free the Abbey Ch. from all incum- brances of pews, etc. The other buildings in the town are the County Hall, the Episcopal Church, and the School. Sir David Brewster was born in the Canongate, and Mrs. Somerville, the learned elucidator of La Place, and authoress of various celebrated works, was also a native of this place. The Rev. Dr. Somerville, her father-in-law, author of the " Hist, of Queen Anne," was fifty years minister of Jedburgh. Thomson the poet received his early education here. Adjoining Jedburgh are Hartrigge, the seat of the late Lord Chancellor Campbell, approached by a fine avenue ; Bonjedward House, Major Pringle ; Mount Teviot, seat of the Marquis of Lothian. Bonjed- ward is honourably mentioned in "The Raid of the Reidswire," a Border ballad, relating to an affray in 1575 betAveen the Scotch and English :— " Bonieddart bauldy made liim boime Wi' a' the Trumbills, strong and stont ; The Rutherfords, with grit renowni, Convoy'd the town of Jedburgh out." The scenery to the S. of the town, following up the Jed Water, is very pretty, rapidly becoming wild and hilly. The river rises in the recesses of the Cheviots, near Peel Fell. Near the town is the hill of Dunion, concerning which there is a weather rhyme — " When Ruberslaw put on its hat. And Dunion on its hood, All the old wives of Rule Wate? May expect a flood." About 14 ru. is Fernihirst, in the 15th cent, a strong fortress, but now a farmhouse, a picturesque specimen of Border architecture. It was for centuries a stronghold of one branch of the family of Kei-r, and its history is full of the varying incidents of Border warfare. It was taken by the English 1549, and soon after stood a siege from the Scotch, aided by a body of French allies under M. Desse. The English garrison had committed horrid atrocities upon men, women, and children in the country around, and when the walls were scaled and they were driven into the keep and compelled to par- ley, a Scotchman, who had been out- raged by the English, crept behind the commander, and with one blow cut off" his head, which flew several yards from the body. Upon this signal the garrison was massacred with the utmost ferocity in retalia- tion for wi'ongs endured. In 1570 the castle was once more ruined by the English under the Earl of Sussex in revenge for devastation caused in Durham by the Scottish moss- troopers. In the beautifully wooded grounds are some noble trees. Between this and Jedburgh is a famous old oak, known as the Capon Tree. Linthaitghlee Burn is a ro- mantic little dell, where the Scotch, under Sir James Douglas, are said to have gained a victory over the English in 1317. It is, at all events, worth the walk from its beauty. 6 m. is Edgerstone, the seat of W. Oliver Rutherford, Esq. ; soon after S. Scotland. Route 2. — Kelso. 25 which the road enters the Border at Carter Fell. Distances from. Jedburgh. — Kelso, 10 m. ; ISTewtown St. Boswells, 154 ; Ancnim, 3g ; Hawick, by road, 11.] Roxburgh Junction Stat, {see above). Cross the wooded vale of the Te-viot on a high viaduct. Left, see Floors Castle. Kelso Station, on the top of a hill, 10 niin. from the town. Omnibus thither. In crossing the Tweed, a bright and beautiful view from the bridge ; Floors is seen to the left. Kelso {Inns : Cross Keys, very good ; Queen's Head) is beautifully situated on the left bank of the Tweed, opposite the confluence of the Teviot. It is a busy and in- creasing town, both in size and pro- sperity, and has a fine open market- square, in which a Court-house has been erected, from whose tower ring the chimes, and at nightfall the Curfew. * The Abbey was one of the earliest completed by David I. It was founded in 1128, and in it he buried his eldest son. Prince Henry, who died in 1152. The monks, who were of the Tironensian order, were moved hither from Selkirk. The abbots of Kelso -at one time claimed the pre- cedence in the Scottish hierarchy, though the abbey itself was never of any great size. The ruined Church is a fine example of the Romanesque style, passing into Pointed. Of the W. Front only half renaains, with half of its grand, deeply -'moulded doorway. The entrance to the N. transept, sur- mounted by a reticulated gable, is also fine. The choir alone has aisles, and the main circular arches are surmounted by 2 tiers of triforium galleries. An elegant intersecting arcade runs round the wall at the iScotland.'] ground level. The nave and tran- septs are aisleless, and }>roject only 23 ft. from the central tower. The main feature is the central tower. It was supported by 4 magnificent arches of Early pointed character ; 2 of these are still standing, and are 45 ft. high. The present state of di- lapidation of this abbey is due to the ferocious marauding English army under the Earl of Hertford, 1545, who on entering the town found the abbey garrisoned as a fortress, and the tower held by 100 men, includ- ing 12 monks. It was battered with guns and the breach assaulted, a party of Spanish mercenaries lead- ing the way, and all found within it were put to the sword. After this it was razed and defaced. During the 18th centy. part of the Ch. was roofed over to serve for divine service, the other part being used as a jail ! The property of the abbey was granted shortly after the Reformation to the Kerrs of Cessford, and still remains in that family (now repre- sented by the Duke of Roxburghe). No place has suffered more by fire than Kelso. It was repeatedly burnt by the English during the Border wars, once by accident in the latter part of the 17th centy., and again in the middle of the 18th. The Kelso people have a great reputation for business habits, but are considered slack in their observ- ance of the duties of religion and hospitality. " The Kelso men slank all away. They liked not much to hymn nor pray, Nor like they 't much unto this day." Scott. And a " Kelso convoy" implies that the host accompanies his parting guest no farther than the door. It was one of the first provincial towns in Scotland to adopt the printing- press, and Ballantyne here brought out the earliest edition of Sir W. Scott's " Border Minstrelsy." The town possesses a good library, and a museum open free every second day. C 26 Route 2. — Newtown St. Bosicells to Berwick Sect. I. Near the abbey the Tweed is crossed by a very handsome Bridge (built by Eennie) of 5 arches, each of 72 ft. span. The roadway faces the gateway and avenue to Spring- Avoocl, the seat of Sir G. H. Douglas, Bart. The road to the left leads to Maxwellheugh and the Ely. stat., 4 m. S., and that to the right soon brings the tourist to the confluence of the Teviot with the Tweed, the former river being crossed a little higher up by a jiretty bridge. On the opposite side of the Tweed, with a terraced garden, is Ednam House, the residence of Mrs. Robertson ; while higher up the river appears the magnificent fa9ade of Floors Castle, as the most striking feature. The lodge of Floors Castle (Duke of Roxburghe) is at the top of Rox- burgh Street, distant about 1 m. from the Market-place. Admission to the grounds every Wednesday to be obtained by application to the branch Bank of Scotland in Kelso. The castle, placed opposite the junction of the Teviot with the Tweed, was built by Sir John Vanbrugh in 1718, but was trans- formed by the architect Playfair to its present shape. In the park James II. was killed in 1460, by the bursting of a cannon, Avhen besieging Roxburgh Castle. A yew is said to mark the spot where the accident occurred. The Gardens are among the most beautiful and best kept in Scotland. The estate comprises 50,000 acres. For views of the vale the tourist should go to Chalkheugh Terrace, or the grounds of Pinnacle Hill (H. Kelsall, Esq.), which overlook the S. bank of the river. There is an Episcopal cJi. at Kelso. Piosebank, a small house on the 1. bank of Tweed just below the town, was a favourite sojourn of the boy Walter Scott. It belonged to his uncle, at whose death it was be- queathed to him. He formed a seat out of the bough of an elm overhang- ing the river, where he used to sit with a gun at his side to shoot gulls or herons, and a book of ballads in his hand. At Kelso some of his earliest productions were printed by Ballan- tyne. An unusual number of pleasant residences are to be found in the neighbourhood of Kelso, in addition to those already mentioned : — as ISTewton Don (C. Balfour, Esq.), in whose grounds the pretty fall called Stichell Linn is produced by the river Eden ; Stichell House, built by the late G. Baird, Esq., a grand modern house, with a tower 100 ft. high ; Nenthorn (F. L. Roy, Esq. ) ; Hendersyde (J. Waldie Griffith, Esq.) ; Woodend House (Admiral Scott), etc. Distances. — IMelrose, 14 m. ; Dry- burgh, 13 ; Newtown St. Boswells, lU ; Norham Castle, 16 ; Smail- holm, 6 ; Stichell Linn, 3 ; Ednam, 2 ; Yetholm, 10, and Linton, 6 ; Hume Castle, 5 ; a. Jedburgh, 10 m. a. Across Teviot Bridge, about .lUi., are the scanty remains of Boxburgh Castle, about 1^ m. from Kelso, on a ridge between Teviot and Tweed. It was, down to 1560, a royal residence and border fortress, but so often in English hands that it was finally cap- tured and razed by the Scotch after the death of James II. before its walls. There was a large town close by it, containing a mint and 3 churches ; but this has long since disappeared. The fragment of the gateway and of the S. wall, though of massive masonry, scarce deserve a visit : — " Roxburgh ! how fallen, since first in Gothic pride, Thy frowning battlements the war defied ! " Leyden. The present village of Roxburgh is about 24 m. farther on. In the churchyard is the gravestone of Edie Ochiltree, the bedesman of the "An- tiquary," whose real name was An- drew Gemmel. S. Scotland. Route 2. — IVark Castle — Coldstn 27 h. It is a very pretty walk to Ednatn, a village lying about 2 m. to the ]Sr. beyond the race-course. An obelisk has been erected to the me- mory of the poet Thomson, author of the " Seasons," who was born here, and educated at the Grammar School at Jedburgh. c. Few will now be tempted to make an excursion, Cheviotways, to Yethohn, a village about 10 ra. to the S.E., once celebrated for being the headquarters of the gipsy tribe, and the residence of their king. It is a humble village on the banks of the Northumbrian stream of the Bowmont, which divides it into Kirk Yetholm, the gipsy resort, and Town Yetholm, shut in by the Cheviots, \\ m. from the Border, here marked by the Shorton Burn. Modern loco- motion and supervision of highways have done much to diminish the im- portance of the Romany tribes, and they exist here more in name than fact. The regal family of the Faas is extinct. Those who are fond of romantic scenery should explore the Bow- mont to its source. The rocks and cliffs of Colledge Water, which falls into the Bowmont, are very grand, and overhang the glen to the height of about 300 ft. The return may be made hj Lintmi, the church of which is on an eminence. On S. wall is a carving of a man on horseback, thrusting a long spear into the mouth of a dragon. d. Hume Castle, now in picturesque ruins, was once the stronghold of the Earls of Home, now the property of their descendant Sir H. Hume Campbell, Bart. It was besieged by Cromwell, who summoned the governor, one Cockburn, to sur- render. The governor bravely re- sponded in the child's rhyme : — " I, Willie Wastle, Stand fast in this castle, And all the dogs in the town Shall not drive Willie Wastle down." but he was very quickly compelled to submit, notwithstanding. From Kelso to Berwick runs a branch of the ISTorth-Eastern Rly., which keeps along the S. side of the Tweed, and for the greater portion of the distance on the English side of the border. A view of Kelso is obtained on left, passing Pinnacle Hill, and on the opposite bank the Italian mansion of Heiulersyde (J. Waldie Griffith, Esq. ), which contains a library, some pictures, antiquities, etc. At 2 m. Sproiiston Stat, the rly. enters England. A conspicuous object in the distance on left, be- tween Sprouston and 44 m. Carham Stat, is Hume Castle {see above). JVarlc Stat, between the rly. at Carham and the Tweed is tVark Castle (Lady Waterford), one of the strongest and most celebrated of the Border fortresses. It was given by Edward III. as a marriage present to the Earl of Salisbury, and defended by his handsome and virtuous coun- tess against King David II. Edward arrived to relieve it after the Scots had raised the siege, and fell in love with its beautiful defender. The story is told at some length by Frois- sart. The Church of Wark is well restored and adorned with paintings by Lady Waterford. Before arriving at 10 m. Cornhill Stat., the ti'ain crosses a viaduct at Learmouth, from whence there is a passing view of the town of Coldstream, I4 m. distant from Cornhill stat. {Inn : N'ewcastle Arms.) Here General Monk in 1660 raised a regiment, which has ever since been known as the " Coldstream Guards." It is a pleasant, well-built town, with a monument in memory of Chas. Marjoribanks, a former county member, but with very little to detain the visitor. In conse- quence of Coldstream being just upon the border, it was frequently the 28 Route 2. — Newtown St. Bosivells to Berwick Sect. I. scene of runawa}^ matches. No less than 3 lord chancellors of England, viz. Eldon, Erskine, and Brougham, resorted hither or to Gretna, to the blacksmith or schoolmaster to be married. Close to the town is the ford, the first of any consequence from Tweedmouth upward, constantly passed by English and Scottish armies on forays and invasions of their neigh- bours' territory. Here Edward I. passed in 1296. In the old inn nobles and princes stayed for days, waiting the subsidence of the waters of the Tweed, which is now crossed by a handsome Bridge of 5 arches, built by Smeaton 1766. The field of Flodden is about 4 m. to the S.E. of Cornhill, on the left bank of the river Till : the New- castle road passing through it. The battle was fought on the 9th Sept. 1513. The English army consisted of 26,000 men, and the Scottish was nearly double that number. The Scotch occupied a naturally strong position on the hill of Flodden, a low outlier of the Cheviots, inaccessible on either flank, and defended in front by the Till. The loss of this battle was mainly due to the infatuation of James IV., who, as a point of hon- our, allowed the English vanguard to cross the Till at Ticizdl Bridge, near its junction with the Tweed, un- molested, though within range of his guns, and to marshal their whole line between him and his own country. The right wing of the English was commanded by the 2 sons of Lord Surrey — Thomas Howard, the High Admiral of Eng- land, and Sir Edmund the Knight Ma,rshal ; the centre by Lord Surrey himself ; and the left by Sir Edward Stanley, at the head of the men of Lancashire and Cheshire. The left wing of the Scots was commanded by the Earls of Home and Huntly, the centre by the King, and the right by Lennox and Arg)de. The left wing of each side was victorious at first, but the Scots made use of their suc- cess to plunder the baggage, while the Admiral took the opportunity of rallying his troops. The two centres were desperately engaged in a con- flict, the issue of which was still doubtful, when Stanley returned from chasing the right wing and charged the Scots in the rear. This Avas the moment at which ]\Iarmion is represented as expiring. The Scots formed into a solid mass, and fought on till night, then made their escape in the darkness, leaving 10,000 dead on the field, amongst whom were the King, his illegitimate son the Arch- bishop of St. Andrews, 2 bishops, 2 abbots, 12 earls, 13 barons, and up- wards of 50 gentlemen of distinction. Scarcely a family of note in Scotland but was in mourning in consequence. The loss of the English was about 500 of all ranks. Adjoining Coldstream is Lees (Sir J. Marjoribanks, Bart.) [A road on r. leads to Dunse, 9.§ m. (Kte. 3), passing 1. the Hirsel, the seat of the Earl of Home, and r. 4 m. Stcinton Rouse, the property of the family of the Swintons, justly celebrated in the military annals of Scotland. One of them in the French service un- horsed the Duke of Clarence at the battle of Beauge : — " And Swinton laid the lance in rest. That tamed of yore the sparkling crest Of Clarence's Plantagenet. " On left is Lennel House (Earl of Wemyss). Patrick Brydone, author of " Travels in Sicily and Malta," lived here for many years. 12 m. Ttcizell *S'to^., right, is the large unfinished mansion of Twizell Castle, built by the late Sir Francis Blake, and magnificently situated on the brow of a steep precipice, over- looking the deep and sluggish river Till, which falls into the Tweed close by, and the bridge of a single arch which was crossed by the Earl of Surrey just before the battle of Flodden, where James ought to have disputed the passage. A little S. Scotland. Route 3. — Neivtown St. Bosimlh to Re.ston. 29 lower down, ou the Scotch side of the Tweed, is the village of Lady- kirk, the Church of which was built 1500, and dedicated to the Virgin by James IV. in gratitude for his rescue from peril Avhile crossing the swollen waters of the Tweed, at the Ford near this — one of the usual pas- sages by which invasions from N. and S. were made. It consists of nave, transepts, and chancel, with an apse, in the Perp. and third Pointed style, with a simple barrel roof. Ladykirk House, the seat of the late David Robertson, who for 2 days pos- sessed the title of Lord Marjoribanks. 16 m. Norham Stat, left, between the rail and the river is Norham Castle (anciently called Abbanford), the opening scene in "Marmion." " Day set on Norham's castled steep, And Tweed's fair river, broad and deep. " The extent of its remains, as well as its historical importance, show it to have been a place of magnificence as well as strength. The castle stands on an eminence overhanging the water, and is built of a soft red freestone. In 1121 there was a fortress here. It was repeatedly taken and retaken during the wars between England and Scotland. In 1154 it was almost rebuilt by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, who added the huge keep which still stands. Henry II., in 1174, took the castle from the bishop, and com- mitted it to the keeping of William de Neville, after which it was gene- rally garrisoned by the King, and considered a royal fortress. It was, with Wark, Etall, and Ford, taken by the Scots before the battle of Flodden. After the Reformation it passed through various hands, in- cluding Sir Robert Carey (afterwards Earl of Monmouth), who sold it to George Home, Earl of Dunbar. The ruins consist now of a large shattered kee}), with vaults beneath and frag- ments of other edifices, enclosed within an earthen rampart of wide circuit, and deep ditches. Norham Ch. is a very interest- ing Norm, edifice well restored. In the ch.-yard is the grave and effigy of the Rev. Dr. Gilly, who devoted so much attention to the Vaudois, and was rector here. From Norham down the bank of the river, a pleasant footpath extends to the village of Horncliff, near which a glen strikes off, terminating at a picturesque mill and encrusting spring. The pedes- trian can cross the river near Velvet Hall Stat., close to the Union Suspension Bridge, built by Sir Sam. Brown in 1820, the first of the sort in the British Ishinds. A little below is Paxton House, the seat of D. Milne Home, Esq., which contains a gallery of good paintings. Between this and Tweedmouth the volume of the Tweed is increased by the tributary waters of the Whit- adder. As the train approaches 22i m. Tweedmouth Stat., the tra- veller obtains on the left an attractive view of Berwick, with the lofty via- duct, built by Stephenson, connect- ing it with its suburb, and reaching right across the valley of the Tweed. It consists of 28 arches, 126 ft. in height, and is 2000 ft. in length. 23^ m. Berwick-upon-Tweed /w??o<. Stat. (Rte. 4). EOUTE 3. Newtown St. Boswells to Reston Junction, by Greenlaw and Dnnse. Rail. 26 m. 3 trains daily. This branch line connects the Coast and Waverley sections of the North British Rly. between Newtown St, Boswells Junct. and Reston JuNCT. crossing the Tweed near Old Melrose by a bridge 133 ft. above the level of the river, and running up the valley of the Leader to 30 Route 3. — St. Bosicells to Reston — Dunse. Sect. I. 41 m, Earlston Stat., celebrated as the residence of Thomas of Ercil- doun, otherwise known as Thomas the Rhymer, in whose prophecies the whole country side once put implicit faith. He was born in the reign of Alexander II., and was contemporary with Wallace. It was the general belief that he was carried away by the Queen of the Elfins, into the interior of the Eildon Hills (Rte. 1,). The Rhymer's Tower is to be seen at the W. end of the village, close to the river. In the neighbourhood of Earlston are Coicdenhiou-cs (R. Cotesworth, Esq.), the scene of Robert Craw- ford's ballad, "The Bonnie Broom," and Carolside (A. Mitchell, Esq.). lOg m. Gordon Stat, 5 m. to the N. of which, near the village of Westi'uther, is Spottiswood, the seat of Lady John Scott. The parish contains the old border tower of Evelaio and some earthworks. HI m. Greenlaio Stat., though the county town of Berwick, does not possess the slightest interest for the tourist. It is situated on the banks of the Blackadder. The geo- logist will find at Bcdshicl, 2 m. to the N. of Greenlaw, an example of "kaim," which Mr Milne-Home believes to have been formed of marine shingle when the land was at a lower level than at present. It consists of elongated ridges of sand and gravel, distinctly stratified, from 30 to 60 ft. high, and extending for about 3 m., and appears more like defensive works than natural results. The ruins of Hume Castle, the former stronghold of the Earls of Home, are 3 m. to the S., and are Avortli visiting for the magnificent view over the Merse district (see above). 18. m. MarcTimont Stat, near which is Marchmont House, the seat of Sir Hugh Hume-Campbell, Bart., con- taining a fine collection of paintings. Those best worth attention are — Philip baptizing the Eunuch, Cuyp : Forest Scene, Buysdael, "fine and very uncommon in composition ; " Corps de Garde, Teniers ; portrait of Don Livio Odescalchi, VandycJc ; Forest Scene, Wynants ; Ships in distress, Vandervelde. In the family burial vault under Polwarth Ch., within the Park, Sir Patrick Hume, an adherent of Argyle in 1685, was concealed for a month in the dark, sleeping on a mattress stealthily conveyed from the house, and fed by his daughter Grisel, who repaired to him at midnight with supplies, unknown to any one but her mother. The house meanwhile was frequently searched by the soldiers of James 11. Sir Patrick eventually escaped to Holland. 21^ m. Dunse Stat, after Berwick the largest town in Berwickshire (Inn : White Swan), claims the honour of being the birthplace of Duns Scotus, the schoolman. It is certain that Dr Thos. M'Crie, bio- grapher of John Knox, and Thos. Boston ("Fourfold State"), were natives. It is of some importance as a cattle, horse, and sheep market, standing at the foot of the Lammer- muir Hills, and at the base of Dunse Law, on the summit of which there is a camp : from this hill or Dun no doubt it gets its name. There is a neat E'piseoixd Cliapel at Dunse. 1 m. from Dunse is llodes Castle, said by some to be the scene of the ballad "Adam o' Gordon." Dunse Castle (Col. Hay) is a spacious and handsome building, overlooking the town on the W., and includes the old tower built by Ran- dolph Earl of Moray. On the S. is Wedderhurn Castle (D. Milne-Home, Esq.), a stately mansion of Grecian architecture. Also Nishet House (Lord Sinclair), Rimnurghame House (A. Campbell Swinton, Esq.), a handsome modern mansion (Bryce, S, Scotland. Route 4. — Berwick to Edinhurgh. 31 archt.), and Langton House (Lady Elizabeth Pringle) (also by Bryce), begun by the late Marquis of Breadal- bane, contains a collection of family pictures, some of them portraits by Jameson. ' ' On the N". side of Cockburn Law, about 3 m. X. fromDunse, and about a mile E, from Abbey St. Bathans, are the interesting remains of an ancient building of unhewn and un- cemented stones called Edinshall. It is circular in shape, and about 90 ft. in diameter : the wall varies in thickness from 15 to 20 ft. It is surrounded by ditches and ramparts of earth and stone, and there are trenches round the top of the hill on which it stands." — Oliver. On the other side of Cockburn Law is Priestlaiv, where a convent once stood. The Fassney Water here flows over some rock sections of great interest to the geologist, as they show the manner in which the gra- nite and greywacke shale of the Lammermuirs are related to each other. Distances. — To Greenlaw, 74 m. ; Coldstream, 104; Berwick, 184- Dunse is a good fishing station for the upper Avaters of the Whitadder, which flows about 3 m. to the N. The angler should go up to Abbey St. Bathans and the Cottage, where he will get sport. Trout run from 4 lb. to 14. Passing left, Mander- ston House (W. Miller, Esq.), the train reaches 25 m. Edrom Stat., which is pro- bably a corruption of Adderham, from adder or a,(}iQr = aivedur (Cam. Brit.) = running water, and ham (Ang.-Sax. ) = a home or village. Not far from Edrom is Broom House (G. Logan Home, Esq.), a modern cas- tellated building, erected on the site of the old fortress, burnt by the Eng- lish under Lord Evers. The river is crossed at 26^ m. Chirnside" Stat. The village is 1 m. to the right, and con- tains a tine old ch. of the 15th centy. in good repair. Kinewells House was the family residence of Hume the historian. 29 m. Eestox Junction (Rte. 4.). ROUTE 4. Berwick to Edinburgh, by Cold- ingham, Dunbar [North Ber- wick], Haddington, Preston- pans, and Musselburgh.,— North. British. Rly. (coast line). 574 ra. 10 trains daily, in \\ to 21 hrs. The traveller from the S. cannot fail to be struck with the first view of Scotland after passing Tweed- mouth. The rly. is carried high up on the hills bounding the valley of the Tweed, so that you look down upon the river, its junction with the sea, and the town on its N. bank. The rly. clears the valley, still main- taining its elevation, by Robert Stephenson's noble viaduct of 28 arches in a curve, 126 ft. high, and nearly 4 mile long (cost £120,000), leading into Berwick Junct. Station, occupy- ing the site of the ancient historic Castle, which it has nearly erased, only a few fragments of walls and towers remaining on the steep slope running down towards the Tweed. The view from the edge of the river and viaduct is striking. BerivicJc-on- Tweed {Inns: Red Lion, King's Arms.) Berwick, from its position on the frontier of England and Scotland, was for ages the most important for- tress in the N"., the object of constant struggles between the two nations, and the scene of great events. The most remarkable of these were the sieges by Edward L, 1296, when the 32 Route 4. — Berwick to Edinburgh. Sect. I. slaughter of 8000 citizens, and the burning alive in the To\Yn Hall of a handful of Flemish merchants who held it, followed the surrender of the town ; a nd that by Edwrd III., in 1333, when the battle of Halidon Hill drove it to capitulate. A strong garrison was maintained at all times, and the Captain of Berwick was always a man of mark and reputa- tion, A Minstrel Ballad recounts to the praise of Harry Hotspur (Percy) that he "kept" Berwick. It is now only a dull and dirty town, with a Pier and small harbour, a consider- able salmon fisher}', and 2 M. P. 's. It is still suiTOunded by bastioned walls ; which it is not worth while to pull down, and which serve as a public walk, and it has five gates — the English, Scotch, Cow Gates, etc. It is disappointing to find that on this historic spot nothing remains of antiquity with which to associate so many memories. On the whole, the town is best seen from the rly., and is not worth entering. Besides the scanty remains of the Castle in the Stat., there are, a little to the E. of it, the ruins of the Bell Tower, on which a beacon Avas lighted to give notice Avhen maurauding parties crossed the Border. A Bridge was thrown across the Tweed here as early as 1271. There is nothing very striking in the town» the streets of which are mostly cramped and hilly. In the broad main street is tlie Tow^n Hall, with a belfry that serves for the ad- joining ch., which is said to have been built by Cromwell, and contains some painted glass, and an oak pulpit from Avhich John Knox preached. The salmon fisheries, which have always been a fruitful source of trade, are still worth £4000 a year. Railway to York, 151 m. ; to Edinburgh, 574 ; ^nd Kelso, 234 (Route 2). Distances. — T^orham, 8 m. ; Union Bridge, 5 m. ; Dunse, 194 m. Excursions : — a. To Norham Castle and Flodden (Rte. 2). b. To Coldingham Priory Euins, via Peston (Rte. 4). c. Lindisfarne or Holy Island is 10 m. from Berwick, and 2 from the coast of Xorthumberland. It may be reached on foot at low water from Belford. See Handbook for North- umberland. 2 m. to the N. of Berwick is Hali- don Hill — where, in 1333 the Scotch army, under the Regent Archibald Douglas, endeavouring to raise the siege of Berwick, attacked the Eng- lish posted in a strong position W. of the town, and were signally de- feated, with the loss of 14,000 men, including the Earls of Lennox, Ross, Carrick, Sutherland, Strathearn, and Athol. Thus did the English avenge the fatal day of Bannockburn. The rly. to Edinburgh is carried for a considerable distance close to the edge of the cliffs, affording a magnificent sea view, and an occa- sional peep into the rugged gullies of the rocks. 4 m. left are the ruins of Lamber- ton Kirk, where, in 1503 the founda- tion of the union of the two kingdoms w^as laid by the marriage-contract of Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., to James IV. The ceremony was performed at Holyrood. In former days the man at the toll-bar of Lam- berton performed the same good offices to runaway couples as did the smith at Gretna, on the W. 54 m., at Bicrnmouth Stat., the line tends inland. In the old ch., of which the transept, built in the 12th centy., is still standing, a treaty was signed between England and Scotland in 1384 ; and another in the castle, after its capture by the Earl of Surre}-, in 1497. The r\j. traverses the E. part of the district of Berwlckshii-e, called The Merse. S. Scotland. Route 4. — Coldingham. 33 74 HI. Ay ton Stat. On right is Ayton Rouse (A. ]\[itchell Innes, Esq.), built 1851, in the Scotch style, of red sandstone, in a commanding position, and occupying the site of an old castle mentioned in Ford's drama of " Perkin AVarbeck." The estate ex- tends over 5780 acres. [3 m. to the N.E. of Ayton is the fishing town of Eyemouth (formerly celebrated for its contraband trade), sweetly placed in a little bay at the mouth of the Eye Water, formed by a point known as Cromwell's Fort and the Nest Ends rocks. Adjoining the village is Netherhyres (J. E. L'Amy, Esq.), in whose grounds is a tension bridge built by Sir Samuel Brown, the designer of the Union Bridge. Gunsgreen House was built by a smuggler, and adapted to the exi- gencies of his profession.] lU ni. PiESTON JuNCT. Stat., from whence a branch is given on left to Dunse, Earlston, and Newtown St. Boswell's (Rte. 3). [From hence it is a pleasant walk of 3.2 m. rt. to * Colclmgham, cross- ing on the Avay the Ale Water and the Abbey Burn. Notice about 1^ m. from the village on left, some gateposts formed of whale's jaws. Coldingham (the Urbs Coludi of Bede) is celebrated for its priory. It is said that Edwin, Saxon Prince of Northumbria, wishing to marry Ebba, a nun, she fled hither, and was miraculously saved by the rising of the waters. To show her grati- tude she founded the nunnery of Coldingham, became its first abbess, was canonised, and gave her name to St. Abb's Head. In 886 the nun- nery was attacked by the Danes, and the inmates, to avoid the ruthless attentions of the barbarians, cut off their noses and lips in self-defence, whereupon the intruders burnt the building, the abbess, and the nuns. Upon the site was founded a Bene- dictine priory by King Edgar in 1098, which eventually became so rich as to be the cause of the civil war that cost James III. his life. Its ultimate fate, however, was to be seized and blown up by Cromwell. The tower, which w^as 90 ft. high, fell, 1775. The building has since been partially restored and fitted up as a parish cli. During some repairs which took place at the beginning of the centy., the skeleton of a woman was found built up in the wall in an upright position, supposed to be that of a nun who had broken her vows. This discovery has been turned to much account in the 2nd canto of " Marmion :" — " And now that blind old Abbot rose To speak the Chapter's doom, On those the wall was to inclose, Alive, within the tomb." ' ' The fragments of this building are of an extremely interesting character. Along with some other Scotch edi- fices within the bounds of the eccle- siastical influence of Lindisfarne, they show a peculiarly graceful mix- ture of the later and less stern fea- tures of the Norm, with the earlier indications of the pointed style." — Billings. As it at present stands, Coldingham is simply a one-aisled ch. The visitor should notice ex- ternally the Romanesque arcades and string-courses at the E. end of the building, and internally the exqui- site series of E. pointed arches with foliaged columns that form a gal- leried arcade round the wall. There are also traces of the monastic offices, together with a ruined gate- way (Eom.) and some tombs of former priors. A neat cross has been put up in the village. 24 m. to the N.E. of Coldingham is St. Abb's Read, one of the most noted landmarks on the E. coast. The E. promontory of the head is called Kirk Hill, and supports the walls of a ch. and monastery. " The Head is separated from the mainland 34 Route 4. — BeriDick to Edinburgh. Sect. I. by a quagmire, and consists of 3 hills. On the middle hill (Hare Law) a lighthouse, 200 ft. high, is erected. About 150 yds. to the N. the porphyry rocks have been ground down, smoothed, and grooved by an- cient glaciers. " The coast line on either side of St. Abb's head is remarkable for the numerous complicated folds into which the Silurian strata have been twisted and thrown. These may be seen passing from top to bottom of cliffs 200 to 300 ft. high. This dis- trict is classic in the eyes of geolo- gists from the early descriptions given of it by Hutton, Playfair, and Sir James Hall," — and recently by Lyell. 5^ m. E. is Fast Castle. Should the pedestrian choose to proceed by the coast to Fast Castle, which is 4 m. farther, he should keep to the right of Coldingham Lake, and follow the high ground (a rough and fatiguing walk) to Du- law Bum, a deep gully in the rocks, which can only be crossed by a little bridge leading to DulaAv Farm. Then make for the coast again, and follow the cliffs until the path is struck to Fast Castle, which, from its situation is very easily overlooked. " On 3 sides the rock is precipitous ; on the 4th, which is that towards the land, it had been originally fenced by an artificial ditch and drawbridge, but the latter is broken down and ruinous, and the former has in part been filled up. " This is the description of Wolf's Crag in the "Bride of Lammermoor," of which Fast Castle was supposed to be the original, but the author declares that he never saw the castle, except from the sea. It was once a fortress of the Home family, and subse- quently belonged to Logan of Eest- alrig, one of the Gowrie conspirators, who intended to confine James VI. here, Logan's body was exhumed after death, tried for high treason, and found guilty. His property was forfeited, and his family declared in- famous. From Fast Castle to Cock- burnspath Stat, it is at least 7 m. ; but the road is tolerable, and offers exquisite sea-views and extensive landscape northward, embracing the Bass Rock, Berwick Law, the Isle of May, and the Fifeshire coast.] From Reston the line enters the defiles and broken ground to the E. of the Lammermuir Hills. Berwick- shire is divided into 3 districts — the Merse to the S. , Lammermuir to the iST., and Lauderdale to the W. Lam- mermuir, which the North British Railway traverses, is wild and hilly, and devoted almost entirely to pas- turage. The rly. ascends a narrow valley, which it surmounts near ICI m. Grant's House Stat, situ- ated among wild hills. After tra- versing a short tunnel, the Pease Deane, or dell, is crossed by the rail- way, and (rt.) a little lowef down by the old London Road, by the Pease Bridge, a viaduct of 4 arches, 1 27 ft. above the Pease Burn. It was built in 1786, and is 100 yards across. The railway is carried through much rock cutting to 21 m. Cockhurnspath Stat, in the open, not far from the sea (a small Inn), the village being prettily situ- ated at the base of the Lammermuirs. Fast Castle is 7 ro. from this stat. To the left is an old tower, a fortress of the Homes, overlooking a deep glen of rough stone, with a circular staircase in its S.W. angle. The scenery of the deep, narrow, wooded and ferny dingle of the Pease Burn, crossed by the colossal bridge, is ex- ti-emely picturesque, and well worth the walk of I5 m. from Cockhurns- path to see. This defile was the object of con- tention before the battle of Dunbar, Gen. Leslie gathering toward the hills, labouring to make a perfect interposition between Cromwell and Berwick. "And ha^dng in this pos- ture a great advantage, through his E. Lothian. Route 4. — Imienvick — Dunbar. 35 better knowledge of the country, he effected it by sending a considerable party to the strait pass at Coj)pers- path (Cockburnspath), where one man to hinder is better than twelve to make way. " — Cromic ell's Despatch. Between Cockburnspath and In- nerwick on left, is Dunglass (Sir James Hall), a modern building, erected upon the site of an old castle of the same name, which belonged to the Earls of Home, arid still gives the 2nd title to that family. The grounds are bordered on the S. by the pretty wooded dell of Dunglass Burn, which the rly. crosses by a viaduct connecting Berwickshire with East Lothian. 23| m. Innerwick, situated at the foot of Cocklaw Hill, 1046 ft. On the left are the remains of Innerwick and Thornton Towers, both destroyed by the English in the invasion of 1547. 1 m. before Dunbar Stat, the rly. crosses a small stream, the Brox- bourne, hastening to join the sea. This spot is historical as the field of the Battle of Dunbar, Sept. 3rd, 1650. Oliver Cromwell had his head- quarters in the pretty park of Brox- bourne Hoiise (Duke of Roxburghe) right. His army was posted between this and Belhaven, with its back to Dunbar and the sea. His antagonist, David Leslie, with the Scotch army, occupied high gi'ound (Doon Hill) along the right bank of the Brox- bourne, which flows in a gully like a deep ditch. His position was im- pregnable, and he effectually barred with his army Cromwell's access to Cockburnspath, and closed the road to England. He was hemmed in, and his army was diminished by famine and disease. At this moment Leslie, moved it is said by the urgent pressing of the Covenanting clergy at headquarters, came down from his vantage ground and pushed forward his riglit wing to occupy the flat open space near the mouth of Broxbourne glen. Cromwell and Ireton at once perceived this, and began the attack : sending forward Generals Monk, Fleetwood, Lambert, and Whalley, Avith a large force of cavalry, they charged through Les- lie's right wing, drove it in disorder back upon the infantry, which, not having space to deploy between the gully of the Broxbourne and the hills, was broken, disordered, and routed — 3000 of the Scotch army were slain, 10,000 made prisoners, and the possession of Edinburgh and Leith soon after were Cromwell's gains from this astounding victory. 28 1 m. Dunbar Stat. {Inns : Ander- son's near the Stat. ; P. horses and traps ; St. George) ; Pop. 3000. " A small town, standing high and windy, looking over its herring-boats, over its grim old castle, now much honey- combed, on one of those projecting rock promontories with which the shore and the Firth of Forth is nicked and vandyked ; a beautiful sea and grim niched barrier of whinstone sheltering it from the chafings and tumblings of the German Ocean." — Carlyle, Cromwell, ii. 198. It is a life- less town and small seaport, and consists of one long street, at the end of which is Dunbar House (once the residence of the Earl of Lauder- dale), now a barrack. Behind it are the ruins of Dunbctr Castle, consist- ing now merely of a few shapeless masses of masonry, on a red sand- stone rock, hollowed by the waves into an arch. Close under the castle, is the entrance to the new harbour, between 2 scarped rocks. In the History of Scotland Dunbar was an important fortress and outlet to the sea. Its most celebrated defence was by Black Agnes, Countess of March, daughter of Randolph, Earl of Moray, and grandniece of Robert Bruce, 1337. the Earl of Salisbury, after trying every means to reduce it, was compelled to raise the siege, upon which the town was made a royal burgh by David II. Edward II. fled hither after Bannockburn, and embarked here for Berwick. 36 Route 4. — Berivkh to Edinburgh — Dunbar. Sect. I. The governorship was conferred on the Earl of Bothwell by Q. Mary, who was carried off from Edinburgh by him and an armed band under his orders, to this castle, 1567, April 22, after the murder of Darnley, and only 3 weeks before her mar- riage with Bothwell. Accompanied by Darnley she had taken refuge here after the murder of Kizzio ; and hither again she fled, in the disguise of a page, with Bothwell after the interruption of their honeymoon at Borthwick Castle. A few days after- wards she surrendered at Carbery Hill, and Dunbar Castle was de- stroyed by the Eegent Moray. Notwithstanding its antiquity there are no buildings of any age or beauty in the town. The Parish Church, rebuilt 1821, whose tall red tower is well seen from the Stat., contains a huge marble monument to George Home, Earl of Dunbar, Treasurer of Scotland under James VI., 1593. His effigy, under an arch, is supported by armed knights on either side, all of marble. Great efforts have been made to establish a safe and commodious harbour, for Dunbar is an important rendezvous for the herring-fishers of this district, and the coast is very dangerous from sunken rocks. For this purpose the harbour has been deepened at a cost of £35,000. In the neighbourhood of Dunbar were fought two great and decisive Battles. 1st, in 1296, Edward I. defeated John Balliol, and 2dly, in 1650, Cromwell defeated Gen. Leslie. {See above.) Adjoining Dunbar, Lochend, a seat of Sir George Warrender, was de- stroyed by fire in 1860 ; and 1^ ni. to the S. is the village of Spoil, at the foot of Doon Hill, the head- quarters of Leslie's forces. In the parish, towards the Lammermuirs, is the Chesters (Castra), a circular British fort ; and close to the village is Spott House (J. Sprott, Esq). This rly. passes through one of| the finest farming districts in Britain. Every farmyard has its own steam- engine, Avhose stalk marks its site, rising over a level sea of yellow grain in summer. Near Dunbar appear in view on right the conic hill of N. Berwick Laiv, and the Bass Rock, remaining in sight nearly to Edinburgh. 29 m. right, Belhaven, a small fish- ing-village, from which Lord Belha- ven takes his title. The rly. now turns inland, and soon crosses the high road at the Biel Water, having to the right Belton (J. G. Hay, Esq.), the grounds of which are celebrated for their firs ; and higher up the stream, Biel House (Rt. Hon. R. A. C. Nisbet- Hamilton), surrounded by charming pleasure-grounds in a large estate of the finest land. Biel is tlie birthplace of the poet Dunbar. On left is Whittinghame (Arthur J. Bal- four, Esq. ), under Traprain Law, where the Darnley murder was planned. 34 m. Linton Stat., on the river Tyne, here crossed by a red stone bridge. On right, close to the rly., is Plmntassie, where Rennie the en- gineer was born ; and close to the village of Preston is Smeaton House (Sir T. Buchan-Hepburn, Bart). [Be- yond it, 4 m. , beautifully situated on the banks of the river, and sur- rounded by plantations, is Tynning- hame House, the seat of the Earl of Haddington. Binning woods are the finest in Scotland. The district is celebrated for its holly, the roads being lined with holly hedges, in some places 15 ft. high. Admittance to the gi'ounds on Saturday. Close to the house are the remains of the Romanesque Church of Tyn- ninghame, built in the 12th cent, on the site of an ancient monastery]. To left of the stat. 1 m. are the ruins of Hailes Castle, where Queen Mary lived for some time during her connection with Bothwell, and where George Wishart was imprisoned. Near it is the dome-shaped hill of S. Scotland. Route 4. — Dideton — North Berivick 37 felstone, called Traprain Law, 724 ft. , which is a conspicuous feature in the landscape. 364 m. East Fortune Stat. There are several seats in the vicinity : on left Gilmerton (Sir D. Kinloch) ; and on right Xewbyth (Sir David Baird), Eockville, Sheriff Hall, and Balgone (Sir George Suttie, Bart.), in a beautiful park. On left are the Kilduff Hills, which in the neighbourhood of Athelstaneford are celebrated for their fox-covers. In the latter vil- lage an obelisk has been erected in memory of Blair, the author of " The Grave," who was minister here, and was succeeded by John Home, who himself was compelled to retire from the living for writing the tragedy of " Douglas." The conic hill, N. Berwick Law, is well seen, right, near 39| m. Drem Junct. Stat. [Drem to North Berivick. Branch ^l5^, nearly 5 m. Archerfield. Right — Fenton Tower is passed. 2i m. Dirleton Stat. 1 m. to the N.W. is the village of Dirleton, with the ruins of a Castle built in the 14th centy., and once the property of the De Vaux family. The grounds on which it stands are the property of the Et. Hon. R. A. C. Nisbet- Hamilton, of Archerfield, and are well kept up. They are open to the public on Thursdays, on which day an omnibus runs from North Berwick. The gardens are tastefully laid out, and the mixture of gay flower parterres, with spruce, yew, and privet hedges, with the vener- able trees, is quite in keeping with the solemn gi-andeur of the ruins. The original plan of the building, M^hich stands on a rocky elevation, is that of a square. The side towards the S.E. is a continuous wall of great height, with scarcely an embrasure. At the S. extremity is a tower, and a second towards the N. Each of these springs from a broad base, and becomes narrower as it rises. The entrance to the castle was under a projecting archwa}^, in front of which are the moat and the vestiges of the masonry upon which the old draw- bridge rested. The hall in the upper storey is roofless, and the kitchen is at one end of it on the same level. The oflices and store- rooms are on lower storej^s, whence supplies were raised to the kitchen by a windlass. In 1298 this castle held out for Wallace against Edward I., who detached Bishop Beck to besiege it. After some resistance it surrendered. It subsequently be- longed to the Euthven family, and was the promised bribe that induced Logan of Eestalrig to join their con- spiracy. 4^ m. North Berivick Stat. {Inns : Royal, close to the st^t., very well kept, comfortable, and moderate ; Johnston's Hotel — a large house fronting the sea. Boarding Houses : White's, good ; and Mrs. Abel's ; Mr. Brodie will give information about lodgings.) This is a station for the herring-fishery, and a fa- vourite resort for sea-bathing, not only for the Edinburgh people, but also visitors from the south. The sands are excellent for the purpose, but there are no bathing-machines, only cots on the shore. There are extensive green Links between the sea and the town, constantly covered by golf-players. It is a very pleasant summer residence, without the fuss of a fashionable watering - place, healthy, with a fine sea-view en- livened by the Bass and other rocky islets, the constant passage of ship- ping, and the Fife coast in the dis- tance. Episcopal Chapel — a neat Gothic building near the stat. On S. side of the rly. stat. are scant remains of a Convent for Cis- tercian nuns, founded by Duncan, 38 Route 4, — North Berwick — Bass Rock. Sect. I. 6th Earl of Fife, towards the end of the 12th cent. They consist of part of the refectory, with cellars underneath the kitchen, with its grand old fireplace, and at the E. end a fragment of the chapel is still standing. The ruined arcliAvay which formed the entrance is at a little distance. Here it was that the Abbess of St. Hilda stopped while Clara and Marmion went on to Tan- tallon. " And now, when close at hand they saw North Berwick's town and lofty Law, Fitz- Eustace bade them pause a while. Before a venerable pile. Whose turrets view'd, afar, The lofty Bass, the Lambie Isle, The ocean's peace or war." Marmion, Canto v. I of an hour's walk to the S. of the town is North Berwick Law, a conical hill of trap, 612 ft. high, from Avhence a splendid panorama, including Fife coast, Arthur's Seat, Pentlands, Dunbar, St. Abb's, Tan- tallon, and the Bass and Isle of St. Mary, is obtained on a clear day. The ground to the N, and E. is com- paratively flat, and the prospect reaches from the Pentlands to Ben Lomond. Upon the top are the ruins of a watch-tower, built during the war with France. These "Laws" were probably all used as beacon- hills, and the word seems to be identical with the Derbyshire " Low," derived from the Anglo-Saxon word " Hltew," a heap, a hill. The cliffs E. of North Berwick consist of vol- canic tuff's, like those of Dunbar. The geologist will find no fijier sec- tions in the kingdom to illustrate this class of rocks. From the small hamlet in Canty Bay, 1 4 m. E. of N. Berwick, a boat may be obtained to row to the Bass Ptock, 2 m. distant ; the charge is 6s. there and back, and the boats will hold 4 or 5 people. This island is a mass of basalt, with precipitous sides descending to the sea. The landing is slippery, and a little diffi- cult in rough weather. The castle was from early times one of the "strengths" of Scotland, and was used as a prison for English cap- tives in the wars with England, and some of the Scottish Covenanters were confined there in 1671. Upon it are still to be seen traces of fortifi- cations and of an old chapel. The island is farmed, the only production being solan geese, which are shot for their feathers. There is a penalty of 5s. for every goose shot by a stranger. " The sloping acclivity of the Bass consists of 3 great steps or terraces, with steep belts of precipice rising between ; of these the lowest is occu- pied by the fortress, and furnishes, where it sinks slopingly to the sea, on the S.E,, the two landing-places to the island. The middle terrace, situated exactly over a great cave perforated by the sea, has furnished a site for the ancient Chajyel, while the upper and largest terraces, lying but a single step below the summit of the rock, we find laid out in a levelled enclosure, once a garden." — Hugh Millar. 21 m. E. of ISr. Berwick, I m. be- yond Canty Bay (from which there is a path round the edge of the cliff'), are the ruins of Tantallon Castle. " But scant three miles the band had rode. When o'er a height they pass'd ; And, sudden, close before them show'd His towers, Tantallon vast ; Broad, massive, high, and stretching far. And held impregnable in war. On a projecting rock they rose. And round tlu'ee sides the ocean flows. The fourth did battled walls enclose, And double mound and fosse. By narrow drawbridge, outworks strong. Through studded gates, an entrance long. To the main court they cross. It was a wide and stately square. Around were lodgings, fit and fair. And towers of various form. Which on the court projected far, And broke its lines quadrangular. Here was square keep, there turret high. Or pinnacle that sought the sky. Whence oft the warder could descry The gathering ocean-storm." This description will be found very S. Scotland. Route 4. — Tantallon — Haddington. 39 accurate. AVithin a deep natural moat on the S. side was the outer court- yard, one tower of which is still standing. A passage through an archway, now in a ruinous state, led into the inner court, where probably were the stables and offices. On the N. side of these was the artificial moat, crossed by a drawbridge, the piers of which are still to be seen on each side of the entrance to the castle. The original gateway has been bricked up, and a small wicket now leads through a narrow passage into the interior. The great tower in the centre is quadrilateral with rounded corners. From it extends to the edge of the rock on each side a solid curtain about 50 ft. high, terminated by lofty towers, each of which enclosed a staircase, now fallen down. The wall on the N. side has several rents in it, which seem to presage its fall at no very distant period. The inside of the castle appears to have consisted of three sides of a square. Of the E. wing, which probably contained the chapel, there are no remains except the line of foundations, but of that towards the W. there are portions of banqueting-hall and cellar under- neath. The great strength of the place gave rise to the saying, " Ding down Tantallon, and build a brig to the Bass," as feats of equal difiiculty. It is not known at what time Tan- tallon Castle was built. It first be- longed to the Earls of Fife, whence it passed to the Menteiths, and at the death of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, was forfeited to the crown, and con- ferred upon the Douglas family. After the Earl of Angus had been banished in 1527, the castle stood a regular siege by James V. Sir Ralph Sadler, the English ambassador, lived here, under the Earl of Angus's pro- tection, after the failure of his nego- tiation for mating the infant Mary with Edward VI. The castle was eventually destroyed by Gen. Monk, the Douglas of the day being a Royalist. At the beginning of the last centy. the whole of this property was sold to Sir Hew Dalrymple, and is still in possession of his family. A little to E. of Tantallon is a dila- pidated ruin, which goes by the name of " Aicldhame Church," and is said to have been St. Baldred's place of abode and death. It was ap- parently a small monastery, of which the refectory and cellars are alone represented in the ruins, standing on one side of a picturesque little bay ; at the end of the other is a beacon, and farther inland is Sea- cliff House (J. AV. Laidlay, Esq.) Tynninghame grounds may be visited on Saturday from N. Ber- wick, 4 m. beyond Tantallon]. Leaving Drem Junct., on right are ruins of Redhouse, a double tower of the year 1500, and Gosford House, the seat of the Earl of Wemyss. The top only is visible among the plantations. A new house was built close by, but has not yet been inhabited, and the old one has been restored. There is a good col- lection of pictures (not open to the public), by Teniers, Murillo, N. Poussin, Hogarth, Hohhetna, a landscape, an important work ; Ruysdacl, 4 fine landscapes ; J. Romano, a procession ; Wm. V. dcr Velde, Ships at Sea in a Breeze ; Lely, Portrait of a Lady ; Memling, Head of St. Sebastian ; S. Rosa, Rocky Landscape : Velasquez, Por- trait of a Man. On the W. side of the grounds is a Gothic lodge, designed by Mr. Bil- lings, from whence it obtained the sobriquet of " Billingsgate." On left are the Garleton Hills, on which is a British fort called the Chesters (Castra), and an obelisk raised to the memory of the 4th Earl of Hopetoun. 44^ m. LoNGNiDDEY Junct. Stat. In the village John Knox was a private tutor from 1543-47, and preached in the ch. 40 Route 4. — Haddington — Tester. Sect. I. [Longmddry to Haddington, 4^ m. (Pop. 4007 ; Inn: George), a Pari, burgh, prettily situated on the W. bank of the Tyne, gives its name to the county of East Lothian, and is one of the best grain markets in Scotland. Its early history is lost, owing, it is said, to the destruction of its records by Edward I. The name is derived from Ada, Countess of aSTorthumberland, mother of Mal- colm IV. and William the Lion, who founded a nunnery here 1178, which latter may still be traced in ' ' Nim- gate," the name of the suburb on the E. bank of the river. On the S. side of the town the Parish Church, originally the nave of a Francis- can abbey, of which the choir and transept, reduced to ruin and unroofed, remain, also the central tower. Its choir was once called " The Lamp of the Lothians." Its architecture is that of the transi- tion from the early to the later period of the Dec. era. The W. doorway, and the triple arches of the tower windows, though exhibit- ing the semicircular form of the Normans, belong to a much later period. The chancel is the most modern portion, and contains a chantry, in which are the tombs of the Maitland family ; one of marble to the Duke of Lauderdale, 1682. The quarter of Haddington be- yond the Tyne, called Gifford Gate, was the birthplace of John Knox, 1505. John Knox was educated here, at the school. Is'ear the stat. is a monumental statue of the late Robt. Fergusson of Raith. Distance?,. — Edinburgh, 18 m. ; Longniddry, 4| ; Dunbar, 11. Near the town are the residences of Alderston (J. Aitchison, Esq.) and Amisfield (Earl of Wemyss) ; Gilmerton (Sir David Kinloch, Bart.) The most interesting place near this is Lethington, or Lennoxlove (Lord Blantyre), so called from Frances, Duchess of Lennox, one of the beauties of King Charles II.'s Court, There is a portrait of her in the house by Lely. The tower is old, but the lower parts of the house are a modern addition. The grounds and walks through the glen are very pleasing. It was originally a seat of the Lethington Maitlands. One of the green alleys is still called ' ' The Politician's Walk," from the wily Secretary L. John, Duke of Lau- derdale, was born here. Coulston (Lady Susan Bourke), on a pretty wooded glen, was inherited by the Ramsays, Lords Dalhousie, wdio pos- sess the jewel called " The Coulston Pear." Gihiierton is seat of Sir David Kinloch, Bt. Just beyond Gifford village (5 m. S. ) is Tester House (the seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale), an old name for a modern house in an estate of 20, 400 acres. The old Castle of Gif- ford, or Yester, stands upon a penin- sula, formed by the Water of Hope on the E. , and a large rivulet on the W. Sir D. Dalrymple, in his " Annals," relates that Hugh Gifford de Yester died in 1267 ; that under his castle was a capacious cavern, formed by magical art, and called in the county Bo Hall ( = Bogy Hall) : a stair of 24 steps led down to it. The real object of the cavern was to obtain a supply of water from the brook, which ran at a considerably lower level. The stor}^ of its build- ing is told at length in the 3rd canto of Marmion. " I would, Sir Knight, your longer stay Gave you that cavern to survey. Of lofty roof, and ample size, Beneath the castle deep it lies ; To hew the living rock profound. The floor to pave, the arch to round. There never toil'd a mortal arm— It all was -ivi-ought by word and charm."] 2 m. left of Longniddry is the village of Gladsmuir, at which place Dr. Robertson held the living, and wrote his "History of Scotland." George Heriot's family belonged to this place. S. Scotland. Route 4. — Prestonpans — Pinkie Burn. 41 46 m. right is Setmi, which gave its name and title to one of the oldest and most distinguished families of the Scottish nobilit3\ A hideous modern house replaces one which was the frequent resort of James and Charles I. Queen Mary repaired hither after the murder of Darnley. The party in- cluded Bothwell and his supporters. The Queen and he "spent their time merrily ; in light doings — shooting at the butts for a wager." Near the house is a small old ch. in ruins, in which are several monu- ments to past members of the family, The last Seton, Earl of Winton, was attainted in 1715, and the title has since become merged in that of Eglinton. Of the Chapel, never completed beyond the chancel, tran- septs, and an unfinished spire, there remains the fine apse of 3 pointed arches at the end of the chancel, which contains monumental eflSgies of one of the Lords of Seton (in armour) and his wife. The roof is pointed and ribbed. The archi- tecture is mixed, but principally Dec. , and the tracery of the windows (particularly in the transept) is re- markably good. In the parish of Pencaitland is TVmton House (Lady Kuthven), seat of the Earls of Winton down to their attainder, 1716 — a fine old mansion. Leaving Seton behind, the rly. passes, rt., the Battlefield of Pres- tonjmns, fought Sept. 21, 1745, be- tween Prince Charles Stuart and the royal forces under Sir John Cope, .who occupied a strong and well chosen position facing towards Tra- nent, where the Highlanders were posted. It was flanked by an impass- able morass, along which the rly. now runs, but, on the night before the battle a local laird, friendly to the Prince, led the Highlanders from Tranent by a path across the morass, so that they unexpectedly appeared in the rear of Cope's position. He had barely time to change front to [Scotland.] the E. when the battle began. It was decided in ten minutes by the furious charge of the Highlanders. The royal army lost 400 men killed, the Prince about 30, and next day he marched in triumph back into Edinburgh. On left of rly., near the Tranent Stat. , Bankton Iloicse is passed, occu- pying the site of that where dwelt Col. Gardiner, who fell at the battle of Prestonpans, fighting against the Highlanders. An obelisk to his memory stands within an avenue close by the railway, 1. (See Lo7-d Maho'iis " History of the '45," and " Waverley.") 48 m. Prestonpans or Tranent Stat, " a smoky, cindery, collier vil- lage, rife Avith whisky shops," ill- drained and unhealthy ; the village of Preston, or Salt Preston, being on the shore of the Firth of Forth, 1 m. to the N". These villages depend on the collieries, as they once did on the salt Pans, which supplied the E. of Scotland with salt. On right of the station is Preston Tower, once the residence of the Hamiltons, a square keep of the 14th centy. ; and beyond this is Preston Grange, for- merly the property of Grant, Lord Prestongi-ange. His daughter mar- ried Sir George Suttie, in whose family the place still remains. Over the entrance is their motto : " No- thing hazard, nothing have." A road on right leads to the ruins of Dol- phinston Castle. The rly. then crosses the Pinkie Burn, a small stream upon which was fought, Sept. 10, 1547, the Battle of Pinkie, when the English were com- manded by the Protector Somerset. A united charge of the English took the Scots by surprise, and produced a helpless flight, followed by a slaugh- ter almost exterminating. Their vic- tory was most complete, with a loss of about 200, while that of the Scots was computed at 10,000. On left, but far off, is Carherry Hill, where c2 42 Route 4. — Berimh to Edinburgh. Sect. I. Queen Mary surrendered to tlie rebel lords, 1567. She was sent to prison at Lochleven a few days after. Pinkie House (Sir A. Hope, Bart.), on the right, and close to Mussel- burgh, an interesting and well-pre- served old mansion, was at one time a country seat of the Abbot of Dun- fermline. A large part of it shows, unaltered, the architecture of the Jacobsean era. In front is a fountain of two crowned arches. The original building was a square tower, to which it seems the rest was added in 1613, by Alexander Seton, Earl of Dun- fermline and Chancellor of Scotland, as an inscription modestly testifies : " ]S'on ad animi, sed fortunarum et agelli modum." In the interior are some fine apartments, particularly the painted gallery, which is an arched room 120 ft. in length, and lighted b}^ an oriel window, the roof being covered Avith paintings and in- scriptions. Prince Charles slept here the night after Prestonpans. 51 m. Inveresk Stat. On right is Ifusselbwgh, a favourite resort of the Edinburgh citizens, whose villas and mansions occupy its outskirts. On the W., beyond the Esk, is the village of Fishcrroiu, inhabited chiefly by fishermen and their families, and connected with the town by three bridges. Of these one was built by Rennie, and another is very steep and old, believed by some antiquaries to be of Roman origin. Near it is a monument to Dr. Moir, the " Delta" of Blackwood, who was born here. The town is named from a bed or "broch" of mussels, at the mouth of the Esk. This will explain the meaning of an old rhyme, common in this place : — " Musselburgh was a broch When Edinbroch was nane, And Musselbnfgh sliall be a broch, When Edinbroch's gane." — R. C. Hard by are the Links, a sandy waste covered with greensward, resorted to for the manly game of Golf. Here are held the Edinburgh races, and here Cromwell had his camp after the battle of Dunbar, 1650. 54| m. at Poktobello Jitnct., the rly. is joined by the lines from Dal- keith, Melrose, Hawick, and Peebles. This is a pleasant seaside town {Hotel: Commercial), consisting prin- cipally of a number of detached villas. The sands are very extensive, and well adapted for bathing-ground ; they were a favourite haunt of Sir W. Scott, who delighted to ride his horse into the surf. Along part of the beach a broad terrace or espla- nade has been formed, and a sub- stantial Pier has been thrown out, at which, in summer, steamers touch. Portobello obtained its somewhat eccentric name from a sailor who built the first house there, and who had taken part in the capture of the American town. Quitting Portobello the line passes Piershill cavalry barracks, right the turreted house of Restalrig, near which are sewer-irrigated meadows, left Arthur's Seat, Parsons Green, Salisbury Crags. At their foot Holt/- rood House and Chapel are seen from the train, which, creeping under Cal- ton Hill and Jail — " a palace and a prison on either hand" — enters 57p m. Edinburgh Terminus (Rte. 15), at Waverley Bridge Stat., at the bottom of what was formerly the Nor' Loch, between the Old and New Town, and close to Princes Street. Edinburgh. Index. a. Inns and Miscellaneous in- formation .... 43 h. Walk round the city 44 ( General Description ) ^' \ Modern Athens \ 44 d. Old Town 45 e. Castle .... 45 /. General Assembly Hall . 48 g. West Bow, Grassmarket . 48 linhiioi'rih -1 ^i \ S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh. 43 h. High Street. County Hall. OldTolbooth .... 48 i. St, Giles's Church. Par- liament House. Tron Church 49 j. John Knox's House . .52 k. Jeffrey Street. Trinity Church. Canongate. Moray House ..... 52 I. Holyrood Palace and Chapel . . . . . 54 m. Queen's Drive and Salis- bury Crags . . . .55 n. Arthur's Seat . . .56 0. Cowgate . . . .56 J). Greyfriars' Churchyard . 56 q. Heriot's Hospital . . 57 r. University . . .58 s. Museum of Science and Art 58 t. New Town . . .59 u. Calton Hill ... 59 V. High School ... 59 w. Princei Street and Scott's Monument . . . .60 X, The Mound. Antiquaries' Museum . . . .60 y. National Gallery . . 61 z. Princes Street Gardens . 62 aa. George Street — its Monu- ments ..... 62 hb. Dean Bridge and Ceme- tery. Fettes College. Botanic Gardens 63 cc. Eminent Natives . . 63 Environs and Excursions 64 a. Hotels : Douglas Hotel, St. An- drew-square, improved under a new master, a first-class family hotel. Hotels in Princes Street : All very good, and in the best situation. Grieve's Eoyal British Hotel, 22 Edinburgh H., 36 ; Eoyal H., 53 Bedford H., 83 ; Balmoral H., 91 Dejay's H., 99 ; Palace H., 109 Alma H., 112 ; Caledonian H. Osborne H., 146. London Hotel, St. Andrew-square Waterloo Hotel, Waterloo-place Imperial Hotel, near Waverley Sta tion ; Eoyal Alexandra Hotel, Shand wick -place: Eoxburghe,38 Charlotte- square. Of a cheaper class are the Albert and Hanover Hotels, Han- over-street. Temperance Hotels: New Waver- ley, Waterloo-place and Princes-st. ; Cockburn, near the Waverley Stat. ; Crown, West Eegister-street. The visitor during the autumn and travelling season will do well to write for rooms beforehand, to guard against any uncertainty. Post Office and Telegraph, E. end of Princes-street, corner of N. Bridge, opposite Eegister Office. Coach and Omnibus Offi/:e, 4 Princes-street, whence conveyances start for Corstorphine, Queensferry, Lasswade, Dalkeith, Pathhead, Por- tobello, Musselburgh, and other places in the neighbourhood. Railway Stations — North Bri- tish. — Waverley Bridge Stat, to London by York, 400 m. in 10 hrs. ; to Melrose and Abbotsford, 37 m. ; to Carlisle (Waverley Etc.), 100 m. ; to Glasgow, 47 m. ; to Stirling, 36 m. ; and Callander, Trossachs, 52 m. ; to Perth, 46 m., and Dundee, 50| ; to Eoslin, 12m.; to Leith and Grantou Pier — for the ferry steamers to Burntisland. Hay market Stat., of N. Brit. Ely. — Many trains stop here for the convenience of persons living at the W. end of Edinburgh. Caledonian Ely. — Tcrmimcs, W. end of Princes-st, near Lothian- rd. ; to London by Carlisle, 402 ra. ; to Glasgow, 474 m. ; to Carstairs Junct, 27i m. ; Moffat, 63 ; Dumfries, 89^ m. ; Stranraer, 150 m. ; Ayr, 66 m. Steamers (from Leith) to Hull, London, Newcastle ; and foreign to Christiansand, Copenhagen, Dun- kirk, Hamburgh, and Stettin (from Granton) to Bordeaux, Stirling, Aberdeen, Kirkwall, London, Ler- wick, and Thurso. Cab Fares. — By distance. Is. for every 1:^ m., and 6d. for every addi- tional 4 m. By time, 2s. for first hr., and 6d. for every additional |. 44 Route 4. — Edinburgh. Sect. I. For a drive into the country, 3s, per hr., and Is. for every additional 20 min. , and driver is bound to go 6 m. per hr. 6d. for luggage over 100 lbs. From 11 P.M. to 7 a.m., double fare. Churches. — Episcopal : St. John's, "W. end of Princes-street ; St. Paul's, York-place ; Trinity, St. Peter's, St. James's, St. George's. The best shops are to be found in Princes-street, George-street, and ISI". Bridge. Jewellers and Silversmitlis — Marshall and Coy. ; Mackay and Cunningham ; Hamilton and Inches, Princes-st., under Balmoral Hotel. Confectioner. — R. Blair, 37 George - street — for luncheon. Booksellers. — Edmonston and Douglas, 88 Princes-street. Chemist. — Duncan and Flockhart, Princes-street and North Bridge. Medicines and chemicals are well made up, and the charges moderate. Cooling Drinks, after the Ameri- can fashion, in great variety — Bail- don, 73 Princes-street. h. The following Walk or Drive through Edinburgh will embrace the principal objects of interest, and will give a general idea of what may after- wards be seen in detail. Passing E. along Princes-st. — be- tween the Post and Register offices, ascend the Calton Hill for a pano- ramic view of the city. Descend to Holyrood. Drive round the Queen's Park, or walk up to Ar- thur's Seat by St. Anthony's Chapel. Thence up Canongate and High-st., noticing (left) Moray House ; (right) John Knox's house. At Tron Church go up S. Bridge-st. to the University. See Industrial Museum behind it. Greyfriars' Churchyard — with the Martyrs' Monument, and the tombs of George Buchanan and Allan Ram- say, etc. Heriot's Hospital. Cross George IV. 's Bridge to Lawnmarket, Parliament House, and St. Giles's Ch. Edinburgh Castle. Descend the hill to the Mound — upon which are the Royal Institu- tion, National Gallery, and National Museum of the Society of Anti- quaries of Scotland. Princes-st., with its glorious view of the Castle, Old Town, Arthur's Seat, etc., and gay shops. Princes-street Gardens. Sir Walter Scott's Monument. From Princes-st. turn up into George-st., which is well provided with shops. Charlotte Square ; then along Maitland-st. to Donaldson's Hospital. Return by JMaitland-st. to Queens- ferry-st. ; cross Dean Bridge ; and pursue the road to Dean Cemetery, and Fettes College. Return to Randolph-crescent, and thence to Ainslie-place, Moray-place, and Heriot-row to Dundas-street ; thence N. to Royal Botanic Gardens, and on to Granton Pier, and return by rly. to Waverley Stat. c. Edinburgh (without Leith) con- tains a population of 208,353, and has been, since the days of James IV., the capital of Scotland. No one will deny to Edinburgh the praise of ex- treme natural beauty of situation. In this she is surpassed, perhaps, by only two other cities in Europe. The grandeur of the black rocky pedestal on which the Castle stands, the majestic bulk and picturesque outline of Arthur's Seat and Salis- bury Crags, and other hills which overlook it on the S., and the lovely blue of the Firth of Forth, backed by the hills of Fife, are features of romantic beauty hardly to be surpassed. Its appellation of "the Modern Athens " is not merely a general comparison. " There are several points of view on the elevated grounds from which the resemblance is complete. From Torphin in par- ticular, one of the low heads of the Pentlands, immediately above Colin- ton, the landscape is exactly that of S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh : The Castle. 45 the vicinity of Athens, as viewed from the bottom of Mount Anches- mus. Close upon the right, Briles- sus is represented by the hill of Braid ; before us, in the dark and abrupt mass of the Castle, rises the Acropolis ; the hill Lycabettus, joined to that of Areopagus, appears in the Calton ; in the Firth of Forth we behold the ^Egean Sea ; in Inch- keith, iEgina ; in Leith, the Pirreus, and the hills of the Peloponnesus are precisely those of the opposite coast of Fife." — Williams. The city is built all of stone, upon a series of hilly ridges, rimning parallel like waves, with hollows between, also occupied by streets, and occasionally crossed by high level bridges. On the highest of these hills the Old Town is built, the crest of the hill affording room for a street upwards of a mile long, ascending in nearly a straight line ffoin the palace of Holyrood on the E., to the castle which stands at its W. extremity, about 380 feet above the level of the sea. To the E. of the city rises a precipitous cliff, the front of which is called Salisbury Crags, behind which is the more lofty summit of Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. above the sea, inaking the finest and boldest background imaginable. To the IST. of these is the Calton Hill, studded with monuments, the extremity of the new town on this side. The deep gully separating the New and Old Towns now serves as a common terminus for various rlys. This ravine was formerly occupied by pools of water, and, at the time when Edinburgh consisted of the Old Town only, was called the "North Loch." It is crossed by the North and Waverley Bridges, and by the embankment known as the Mound. Generally the first place where the sti'anger looks about him is Princes- street, properly a long Terrace or Eow of fine buildings, gay shops, and inviting hotels, unrivalled in Europe for the view it commands of the long picturesque range of buildings forming the Old Town and the Castle Rock, a mediaeval acropolis. The hollow which intervenes is occupied by the Waverley Railway Stat, and by Princes-street Gardens, whose trees form a pleasing foreground to the pictm-e. These gardens are crossed in the middle by the i\Iound, an artificial causeway leading to the Old Town, supporting its two classic temples — the Royal Institution and the National Gallery. E. of the Mound is the graceful Gothic canopy — the Scott Monument. Princes-street ter- minates E. in the Calton Hill, and the North-bridge, over which appear the hump of Arthur's Seat and the cliffs of Salisbury Crags. d. Let us cross the Mound to enter The Old Toivn, which is somewhat foreign in its appearance. The two main streets, running nearly parallel with one another, are connected by numerous alleys or narrow passages called " Wynds," which consist of very high houses, each storey or " Flat " being a hive of population. On fine evenings, after working hours, the whole population of these places turns out into the main thoroughfares, so that a stranger would wonder where all the people can be stowed away. One principal avenue extends from Holyrood up to the Castle ; in the lower portion it is called Canongate, then Netherbow and High-street ; higher up, above St. Giles' Ch. , Lawnmarket, and the Castle Hill opens on the Castle, at the top of the hill. Beginning at this end the first point is e. The CastUj or Edwin's burgh, so called from aTh early king of Nor- thumbria [d. 633], whose dominion extended thus far, was only the occa- sional residence in time of danger of Scottish royalty before 1100, when Edinburgh became the acknowledged capital of Scotland. Here Malcolm Canmore left Queen Margaret when he and his sons invaded England, and 46 Route 4. — Edinburgh : The Castle. Sect. I. here it was that she received the news of his death, on which she lierself fell sick and died soon after. In 1291 it was taken by Edward L, and held by the English 17 years. In 1312 it was retaken by some of Bruce's follow- ers, who climbed up the western face, previously deemed inaccessible. It was dismantled by Bruce, given back to the English by Edward Baliol, and re-fortified in 1337 by Edward III. In 1341 it was recovered by sti'atagem by Sir William Douglas. In 1572 Kirkcaldy of Grange held the fortress with the gi-eatest difficulty for 33 days, in favour of ]\Iary Queen of Scots, against Sir William Drury and an English force. The garrison then insisted on a capitulation, in spite of Kirkcaldy, who would have persisted to the last gasp, knowing that death ^^^ awaited him from his enemies, which ^,.\ was accordinglyinflictedimmediately ^J they got him into their power. In "«^ 1650, after the battle of Dunbar, Cromwell took the place after 12 days' siege. He made a feint of blowing up the rock, having brought with him Derbyshire miners for that purpose. The mere threat of these extemporised sappers and miners effected his object. He wrote to the Speaker Lenthall, " I need not speak of the strength of the place, which, if it had not come in as it did, would have cost very much blood to have attained, if at all to be attained." In 1745 it refused to open its gates to the Prince Chas. Edwd. Stuart, who was unable either to reduce or blockade it. On the parade-ground in front of the Castle, from which a good view of the city is obtained, is a statue of the Duke of York ; also a monu- mental Cross to the officers and men of the 78th Highlanders who fell in the Indian Mutiny. Verj^ little of the original fortifications is still to be seen, though there are some fragments of them on the IS", of the rock within Princes-street Gardens, called Wal- lace's Tower, a corruption of Well- house Tower, there being an old well on this side. The entrance now is through the outer and inner stockades, across a drawbridge, and through a long vaulted archway called the Port- cullis Gate, over which is the old state prison, where the Marquis of Argyle was confined before his exe- cution ; whence his son, the Earl of Argyle, escaped in the disguise of a page, and to which he was br,£iught back after his unsuccessful invasion of the W. coast. Ptight — Argyle Battery. Beyond this are the Armoury and officers' quarters. Winding round the sum- mit, the road leads through an inner gate to the top, upon which stands Mo-iis Meg, a gigantic piece of artil- lety of long iron bars hooped to- gether, said to have been made at Mons, in Hainault, in 1486 ; another tradition asserts that it was forged at Castle Douglas, in Galloway, by 3 brothers, blacksmiths, of the name of M'LeUan, and presented by them to James II. at the siege of Threave Castle in 1455. " Let Mods Meg and her marrows speak twa words or three, For the love of the bonnets of bonny- Dundee. " It was employed at the siege of ISTorham Castle in 1497, and burst in 1682, when firing a salute in honour of the Duke of York. In 1754 it was removed to the Tower of London, but was restored to Edinburgh in 1829, at the'Tequest of Sir Walter Scott. From the Half-Moon Battery a time-gun is fired every day at 1 P.M. Greenwich time, by means of a wire stretched across the town from the Observatory, Calton Hill. On the summit of the rock, close to the High Battery, stands Queen Margaret's Cliajwl, certainly the old- est building in Edinburgh. It is an eaTly specimen of Eomanesque archi- tecture, and, if not built by Margaret S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh : The Castle. 47 herself, was erected in her honour by her son David I., about 1100. It is of very contracted dimensions, 16 ft. 6 in. long by 10 ft. 6 in. wide. The chancel arch separating the small nave from the E. semicircular apse has good zigzag mouldings, and lozenge patterns on it. It was re- stored in 1853, having been long neglected, and latterly used as a powder magazine. It now serves only for the baptism of children belonging to the garrison. A very magnificent Vievj is ob- tained from the High Bomb Battery, from which the city and its outskirts are all laid open as in a map, bounded by the Ochils, the hills of Fifeshire, and the sea, with a peep of the mountains around the Trossachs in very clear weather. A little below the summit, at the S.E. corner, is a portion of the Royal Palace, and seat of the Scotch Far- lia'ment for a short timfe. It was built between 1565 and 1616, and forms an irregular square, part being used as the hospital. Its outer wall rises up flush with the face of the precipice. It is entered by a pro- jecting turret stair. On the S.E. angle of the square are Queen Mary's Apartments, in the smaller room of which James VI. was born, on the 19th June 1566. Over the doorway are the initials H. and M., those of his father and mother ; and in the ceiling are his own and his mother's, surmounted by a crown. On the E. side of this square is the Croivn Room, a bomb-proof vault, in 'which tTie Kegalia (shown daily till 3 o'clock) are kept within an iron cage. They were deposited here in an old chest, with much formality, on the 7th March 1707, and here they were found on the 4th Feb. 1818.* The fact of their not having been seen for upwards of 100 years had raised * An account of their disinterment is to be found in Lockhart's " Life of Scott,'' Sir Walter Scott having been one of the Commissioners appointed for the purpose. suspicions that they had been re- moved to England, or perhaps stolen. They consist of a crown, sceptre, sword of state, treasurer's rod of office, the badges of the orders of the Garter and the Thistle, and a ring. The crown, at least the double cir- clet or diadem, is supposed to be as old as the days of Robert Bruce, but was ornamented with concentric arches of gold in the reign of James Y. The last time it was used was for the coronation of Charles II., before the battle of Worcester. The sceptre, which was made in the time of James V., is surmounted with figures of the Virgin ]\lary, St. James, and St. Andrew. The sword was a present from Pope Jidius II. to James IV., and is a piece of rich Italian work ; its scabbard is orna- mented with silver gilt oak-leaves and acorns. The Golden Collar and George of tlie Order of the Garter was presented by Queen Elizabeth to James VI. ; to whom also belonged that of the Thistle, inclosing a por- trait of his wife, Anne of Denmark. The ring was given by him to Charles I. Castle Hill contains some interest- trig oTd lioiises, but, owing to constant fires and improvements, the material remains of " Auld Reekie " are b}" no means numerous even in the High- street, once the abode of the noblest of the aristocracy as well as the wealthiest of the citizens. This part of the thoroughfare suff"ered severely in 1745, when the Castle was held by Gen. Guest for King George, and the town and HoljTood were in pos- session of Prince Charles. The latter attempted to blockade the Castle, but was obliged to desist on a threat from the governor that he would bombard the city. On right a cannon-ball is still to be seen sticking in the side of the end house facing the esplanade, which originally belonged to the Mar- quis of Huntly. In old Gordon House was born Sir David Baird, the dis- 48 Route 4. — Edinburgh : Castle Hill. Sect. I. tinguished military commander, son of Mr. Baird of Newby th. L. Reservoir for supplying the city with water ; it is conveyed hither from the Pentland Hills. At back of this is Ramsay Lane, leading to Ramsay Lodge, where Allan Ramsay lived, and where he died in 1758. The Free Church College is next, erected 1843, soon after the "Disruption" of the Church, as it is called. /. Right — In the main street, the first object of interest is the General Assembly or Victoria Hall, built in 1844, by Gillespie Graham, at a cost of £16,000, a very handsome Church in its outward aspect of the Dec. Gothic style of architecture. At the E. end is a noble tower and spire rising to a height of 240 ft., and forming a very prominent object in all the views of Edinburgh. The hall is used for the meetings of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, and for the ordinary pur- poses of divine service. On the N. slope of the hill below this is the Free Assembly Hall. The section of High-street below Castle Hill is known as the Laivnmarket, because it used to be crowded with stalls and booths for the sale of linen goods. Down to the beginning of the present century it was nearly shut in at the two ends by projecting buildings, and had no lateral carriage communica- tions until 1825-30. g. rt. Near this is a remnant of the West Bow, a narrow winding alley or wjmd, which led down to the Gra^sniarTcet, the Smithfield of Edinburgh, formerly the scene of public executions, but which has long been used for the sale of corn and cattle, the Corn Exchange, a large low building, being situated on one side. Here it was that Capt. John Porteous, after being hurried from the Tolbooth down the West Bow, was hanged from a dyer's pole. His offence was, that being in com- mand of a guard at the execution of a smuggler, he anticipated an at- tempt at rescue, and without warn- ing fired on the mob. The queen having pardoned him, the mob took the law into their own hands, as is so well narrated in the " Heart of Midlothian. ' ' In the West Bow once lived Lord Ruthven, who took a pro- minent part in the murder of Rizzio ; and Major Weir, the reputed magi- cian, burnt with his sister in 1670. Over the door is the inscription " Soli Deo honor et gloria." L. James's Court, where stood the House of Da\dd Hume, and after- wards that of James Boswell, burnt down in 1859. Here Boswell enter- tained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli in 1771. Lady Stair's Close was once the principal thoroughfare for walkers from the Old to the New Town. A house in it, bearing the date 1622, was for many j-ears in- habited by the Dowager Countess of Stair, whose history (as Lady Prim- rose) is the basis of Sir Walter Scott's story of " My Aunt Margaret's Mirror." On the front of the house are the initials W. G. and G. S. (Sir W. Gray and Geida Smith), and the injunction, "Fear the Lord and de- part from evil," The next turning is Bank Street, leading to the Mound, a little way down is the Bank of Scotland, built in 1806, at an ex- pense of £75,000, surmounted by a dome. In 1869 it underwent a splendid renovation. The Bank of Scotland was incorporated by Act of Parliament in 1695. To the S., opposite Bank Street, opens George IV.'s Bridge, erected 1835, which spans the Cowgate, nearly on a level with the spire of the Magdalen Chapel. On the bridge, at the west side, are the offices of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, a most useful institution, opposite which is a handsome build- ing containing Courts for the accom- modation of the Sheriffs of the County. h. rt. The County Hall is a hand- some building, the E, face designed S. Scotland. Route L — Heart of Midlothian ; Ch. of St. Giles. 49 on the model of the Erechtheum at Athens. In the open space in front, now marked by a rude ' ' heart ' ' of paving- stones let into the causeway, stood the old Tolhooth, better known as the " Heart of Midlothian. " It was separated by a lane from St. Giles's Ch., and by a narrow road from the Lawnmarket. The Tolbooth was also used as the House of Parliament, principal court of justice, and gaol for criminals and debtors. Upon a platform projecting on the side next the Lawnmarket were exposed, at different times, the heads of the Earl of Morton, the jMarquis of Mon- trose, and the Marquis of Argyle. Jt subsequently became a mere prison, the lower storey being let out as shops ; and after beiug a disgrace to the city for many years it M'as pulled down in 1817. The old door- way of the Tolbooth is still to be seen, built into the wall at Abbots- ford, and the keys hang in the armoury of the same mansion. i. Midway, in theHigh-st., stands the Church of St. Giles, a cruciform building of the 14th cent., with very slightly projecting transepts : at one time of great architectural beauty. Its exterior has, however, been altered and restored so frequently, that nearly all traces of it have dis- appeared, or at all events have taken refuge in the square central Tower. It is snrmounted by light flying buttresses, springing from the sides and angles of the parapet, forming an arched imperial crown ; while, resting upon the keystone of the whole, a short and graceful spire springs from among a cluster of pin- nacles to the height of 160 ft. Some kind of ch. seems to have existed here as early as the 9th centy. The present edifice was erected by degi-ees, at periods rang- ing from the beginning of the 12th century to the middle of the 'loth. In 1466 it became the seat of a [Scotland.] collegiate foundation. At the in- troduction of the Reformed worship into Scotland the 36 altars Avhich the ch. then contained were removed, and the statue of St. Giles was carried off by a Protestant mob, and thrown into the N. Loch. Soon after, the ch. was pillaged and "purified," the chancel being alone restored for divine worship. In 1572 the tower was fortified by Kirkaldy of Grange, who held it against the Regent. James VI. took leave of the citizens of Edinburgh in St, Giles's when about to depart to ascend the English throne. He promised to defend the Presbyterian faith, and to pay his Scottish sub- jects a visit every 3 years at furthest. He went away, but re-established Scottish episcopacy, and it was 14 years before he set foot in Scotland agajn. It was in the following reign, how- ever, that St. Giles became the scene of the most mornentous events con- nected with the religious history of Scotland. The bishopric of Edin- burgh was re-established in 1634, and St. Giles's Ch. became the Cathedral of the diocese. From the very pulpit whence Knox had thun- ctered against popery, the new liturgy prepared by Laud was being read for the first time by the Dean of Edinburgh, July 1637, when Jenny Geddes, incensed at the innovation, took up the cutty-stool on which she had been sitting, and threw it at the head of Dean Hanna, the ofliciat- ing minister. The stool is .still pre- j served in the Antiquarian ]\Iuseum. The Presbyterians divided the eh. into 3 separate places of worship. But the greatest alteration in the appearance of St. Giles took place in 1S28, when the part W. of the central tower was nearly re-cased by an architect thoroughly ignorant of Gothic, and the whole sobered down into a heavy, dull, and uninter- esting uniformity. The fine E. win- D 50 Route 4. — Edinburgh : Parliament House. Sect. L dow, however, was copied from tlie tracery of the original, and the choir remains tolerably well preserved, a specimen of Middle Pointed. It is loftj'' and in a masculine style of Gothic. The vaulted stone roof of the E. choir, diagonally groined with bosses at the intersections of ribs, merits notice. This part of the ch. was repaired and cleared of pews and galleries 1S72 ; modern carved seats being inserted for the Queen, Judges, and Town-council, also a new pulpit and reredos. The Preston chapel on the S. side was erected by the citi- zens in gratitude to Sir \Ym. P., for presenting them with an anu-bone of St. Giles, 1454! In the crypt, beneath the S. tran- sept (shortly to be opened out), lie the remains of two illustrious Scotch- men, the Marquis of Montrose, whose scattered and mangled remains were collected and interred here, 1661, without monument or memorial ; and the Eegent Murray, who is commemo- rated by a tablet in the S. transept, restored after removal in 1829. The Latin epitaph is by George Buchanan, and is Avorthy of being quoted : — " Jus exarmatum est Pietas sine vindice luget 23tio Jaiiuarii 1569. " Jacobo Stovarto Moravia; Comiti Scotife Proregi, Viro setatis sua? longe oiUimo, ab inimicis oninis memoriaj deterrirais ex in- sidiis extincto, ceu Patri couununi patria mcerens posuit." Down to the year 1817 a number of small shops called "krames" were built against the exterior walls of the ch. , and the northern space Avas almost entirely occupied by the " Luckenbooths," which were ten- anted chiefly by booksellers and jewellers. The space to the S. of St. Giles, now called Parliament Square, was originally the cemetery of the ch. A square stone, inscribed I. K. 1572, let into the pavement, nearlj^ opposite the S. door, marks the grave of John Knox. Boswell happened to ask where J. KnoxAvas buried. Johnson burst out, "I hope on a highway." It is singular that his wish should be so nearly fulfilled. In the middle stands an equestrian statue of Charles II., made of lead, and cast in Hol- land. The Parliament House, the build- ing on the S. side of this square, which was completed in 1640, was burned down 1824, and is replaced by a modern Italian pile, now used as the Courts of Justice. The Par- liament Hall, in which the Scottish legislature used to sit before the Union, the onl}" part saved of the old edifice, is occupied by lawyers and their clients waiting for cases tb be called on, serving nearty the same purpose as Westminster Hall. It is a grand hall, 122 ft. long and 49 broad. Its best feature is the open- timber roof, which rests on brackets ornamented with boldly sculptured heads, and is formed of dark oaken tie and hammer beams, with cross - braces. At the S. extremity, where erewhile stood the royal throne, is a large painted window, manufactured at the Eoyal Factory at Munich, from designs of Kaulbach, repre- senting the Institution of the Court of Session by James V. The Scot- tish Parliament, it must be remem- bered, consisted only of one house, and till the Eeformation there was ample room for it in the Tolbooth. At the N. end is a statue in white marble of the 1st Viscount Melville, by Chantrey. Next to him on left is Henry Cockburn in his robes of Solicitor-General ; next Duncan For- bes, of Culloden, by PoubiMac. Read the inscription. It was owing chiefly to Forbes's great influence in Scot- land, and to his unswerving fidelity to the Hanoverian cause, that the Eebellion of 1745 attained such slender dimensions, and was so soon suppressed. He is represented in his official robes, giving his decision and explaining the grounds : the S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh: Libraries ; City Cross. 51 right hand is raised. The forcible attitude reminds one of that of the husband in the Nightingale monu- ment, Westminster Abbey. The execution is admirable. (For a pane- gyric upon Forbes, see Thomson's "Autumn.") Next to him is Lord President Boyle, and beyond is Lord Jeffrey, both by Steell. Then comes Lord President Blair, by Chantrey, erected by the county of Midlothian, for which he was member ; and on the opposite side is Robert Dundas of Arniston, in a sitting attitude, also by Chantrey. There are a great many fine portraits of judges and other eminent lawyers in the hall. In this hall 3 grand banquets have been given : 1st, to Gen. Monk, in 1656 ; 2d, to the Duke of York (afterwards James VI L), in 1680 ; and 3d, to George IV., in 1822. The rooms at the S. end are oc- cupied by the Courts of the Outer House, or Lords Ordinary, those on the E. side by the Courts of the Inner House, presided over respectively by Lord President and Lord Justice- Clerk. The Scottish Court of Session is composed of 13 judges, who are divided into the Outer and Inner House, the Inner House forming tlie First and Second Divisions, presided over by Ld. President (1st Div.), and Ld. Justice-Clerk (2d Div.), who hear appeals from the Lords Ordinary and Sheriffs of the counties. The Lords Ordinary sit separately in Halls, and are 5 in number. These form courts both of law and equity, exercising the powers of the Courts of Chancer)^, Queen's Bench, Com- mon Pleas, and Exchequer in Eng- land. Seven of the judges of the Court of Session also form the High Court of Justiciary, the Supreme Criminal Court of Scotland, in which causes are conducted by a Public Prosecutor, the Lord Advocate, or one of his deputies. It sits every week diiring the terms of the Civil Courts, and the judges hold circuits in vacation throughout the country. The number of the jury is 15, and a majority of voices decides. Between the courts and the County Buildings are the Advocates' Library and Signet Library. They are both well stored with books, especially the first, which is one of the collec- tions entitled to a copy of every new work published in the L^nited King- dom. It contains about 300, OoO volumes, and a valuable collection of MSS. Among its curiosities are a JMS. of the Vulgate, 11th centy., brought from the Abbey of Dun- fermline. The Mayence 1st edition of the Bible, printed by Guttenberg and Faust ; various copies of the Covenant, with signatures of Mary Queen of Scots, James VI., etc. Strangers are admitted to either library without introduction, and upon the recommendation of a mem- ber can get permission to read and write there. The E. side of Parliament Square is occupied by the Exchequer and other offices, and Police Court. The Edinbm-gh Police was established in 1807 ; the protection of the citizens ha-^dng previously been intrusted to the " Town Guard," an old force which had been originally raised in 1682. On the KE. side of St. Giles's Ch., within the railings, is the City Cross, restored 1866. The shaft, of one stone 20 ft. high, surmounted by a unicorn, is old and original, and raised upon a plain modern base. It formerly stood upon an octagonal base 16 ft. in diameter, and about 15 ft. high. At each angle was a pillar, and between them an arch of the Grecian shape. Above there was a projecting battlement, with a turret at each corner, and medallions of rude but curious workmanship between them. The magistrates de- stroyed this monument under the pretext that it encumbered the street, and it was carried away by Lord Somerville to his lawn at 52 Route 4. — Edinburgh : John Knox's House. Sect. I. Drum, from whence the shaft was restored iu 1866. Sir Walter Scott thus speaks of its removal : — " Dun-Edin's Cross, a pillar'd stone. Rose on a turret octagon. (But now is razed that monument Whence roj'al edict rang, And voice of Scotland's law was sent In glorious trumpet clang.) Oh ! be his tomb as lead to lead Upon its dull destroyer's head !— A minstrel's malison is said." On the opposite side of the street stands the Royal Exchange, where the Town-Council meet, completed in 1761. The High-street, the main avenue of the Old Town, is lined Avith tall houses, retaining some picturesque bits of architecture. It is more in- teresting historically as the scene of mauy a bloody struggle between the factions of the nobles and the citizens. The townsmen used to rally round the blue banner " of silk embroidered for the Trades" by Queen Margaret, and still preserved by the Convener of Trades, but contemptuously styled *' tlie blue blanket " by James VI. Here the rival bands of Douglas and Hamilton fought for the top of the Causeway, 1520, when the Douglas prevailed after a bloody encounter " When the streets of High Dunedin Saw lances gleam and falchions redden, And heard the slogan's deadly yell. " Scott's Lay., Canto i. , vii. 1. Dunbar's Close was so called because Cromwell established a guard there after the victory of Dunbar. On left is Cockburn-st., a modern thoroughfare leading to Waverley Bridge and Station. It is a pictur- esque copy of old Scotch archittcture, and contains a group of monster houses 9 storeys high, partly occupied by the Town-Comicil. Right — the Tron Church received its name from a public " trou," or weighing machine, which stood close by, and to which the keepers of false weights were nailed by the ears. The side of the ch. facing the street is the oldest part : a curious old wooden steeple was burnt in 1824, when the present tower was erected. Left — N. Bndge-street, leading to the New Town by the X. Bridge, which was completed in 1772 ; right S. Bridge, leading to the College. Left — Halkerstoii' s Wynd : the wooden-fronted house at the corner was the abode and shop of Allan Ramsaj^ poet and bookseller. In Carruhher''s Close the chapel of St. Paul's was the resort of the Jacobites after the expulsion of the Stuarts in 1688. j. Lower down, projecting into the street, is John Knox's House (admis- sion to the interior on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10 to 4, on pay- ment of 6d.) The house is irregu- larly shaped, and has an external staircase. The interior is divided into small, dark, and low rooms. On the outside, just above the ground floor, is the inscription, "Lvfe . God . aboue . al . and . yo^T . nichtbovr . as . yi . self." A carved stone figure with uplifted hands, passed for Knox in a pulpit preaching, until the repairs in 1850 made manifest that the effigy represented " Moses receiving the Law on Sinai," God being repre- sented by a golden disc, inscribed "Geos." This house became Knox's manse in 1559 (when he was ap- pointed minister of the High Church), and in it he narrowly escaped assassi- nation from a shot fired at him through the window ; here also he died in 1575. The panelling of the walls has been brought from other old houses. k. A wide airy street is in course of being opened through masses of dense old buildings, on the line of Leith Wynd from the High-street to below the North-bridge, called Jeffrey-street. Half-way up is a commonplace Nnc S. Scotland. Pde. 4. — Edinburgh: Moray E., Canongate. 53 Church, into one side of which has been incorporated that elegant frag- ment of late Gothic, Trinity College Church, founded 1462 by Mary of Gueldres, widow of K. James II. It consists of two bays, of the choir, and the apse of 3 lancet windows, of good tracery, with a fine groined roof, and though pulled down, 1845, to make way for the jST. British Eail- way, was preserved stone by stone, and every stone numbered for future reconstruction. This is the only part Avorth looking at, and it has been pushed out of sight, round a corner, by its modern neighbour, " a meaningless annexe." At the contraction of the street liere stood the Nether J^oiv, or Back- gate of the city — so that it was ori- ginally of very moderate dimensions, including neither the Castle, nor Castle Hill, nor the Canongate. The Nether Bow was removed in 1764, in consequence of, though not till many years after, the Porteous riot. From this point to Holyrood the street is called the Canongate, having origin- ally belonged to the Abbey, then tenanted b}' " Canons regular." From its proximity to Holyrood Palace this portion " of the city contained the houses of many of the most powerful members of the Scottish nobility. Eight — Moray House, now a Normal School connected with the Free Kirk, was built by the Countess of Home in 1628, and bears the initials M. H. in various places, besides a lozenge Avith the lions rampant, the arms of the Home family. The entrance-gate is ornamented on each side by a pointed pinnacle, or cone of masonry, and beneath the large window is a balcony, in which the Marquis of Argyle and family stood to see Mont- rose bound and carried in a cart through the city to his execution. The house was taken possession of by Cromwell for his abode on his first visit to Edinburgh, 1648. i Left — Canongate Tolhooth, with its clock projecting over the entrance, was built in 1591, not exactly " pro patria et posteris," but for debtors. On one side of it are the arms of Holyrood Abbey, a stag's head with a cross between the antlers, and the motto, " Sic itur ad astra." The building is now used as a register and revenue office. The old cross, which formerly stood in the centre of the street, has long since dis- appeared, and a more modern one is now attached to the lower end of the Tolbooth, and consists of an elegant hexagonal shaft, on the upper part of which is a battle- mented capital, with a shield bear- ing the arms. The Church of the Canongate stands at the E. end of the jail, and back from the street. It was built in 1688. In the ceme- tery round the ch. are buried Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and the poet Fergnson, who died at the early age of 24. Lower down is Panmure House, in which Adam Smith lived for some time. Left — Queenshcrry House was once a very handsome building, in the style of a French chateau. It is now used as a house of refuge. The poet Gay lived here during the latter part of his life in the capacity of secretary to the Duchess of Queensberry. The house was dismantled in 1801 by the then Duke of Qyeensberry, who was usually known by the appellation of Xeft — White Horse Close deserves a -visit only because it gives a view of an old inn in tolerable preserva- tion. The ground-floor wholly con- sists of stables. This was a kind of Messagerie in the 17th centy., where journeys between Edinburgh and London usually began and ended. It is now tenanted by a number of poor families. Lower down is Younger's Brewery, celebrated for its " Edinburgh " ale. Opposite the Watergate, the radiated 54 Route 4. — Edinhurgh : Holyrood Palace. Sect. I. pavement marks the site of the "Girth Cross," or the bounds of the Sanctuary of Holyrood for Debt- ors. Here the road opens out into the space before Holyrood. In the centre of the foreground stands a Fountain of quaint design, a copy of the one ■which originally occupied this place, and was made and pre- sented by Robert ]\Iilne, Esq., C.E. Left **HolyroodAhheyand Palace. Adm. Saturdays, gratis, on other days 6d. ; but during the residence of the Queen, or the Lord High Com- missioner, there is no admittance. Holyrood Abbey, i.e. the Abbey of the Holy Cross, owes its origin to the rescue from death of King DaA'id L, while hunting in the forest of Drumsheuch, about 2 m. from this spot, from the horns of an infuriated stag, by the apparition of a luminous cross in the sky, which put the animal to flight. The king founded the abbey to commemorate his mira- culous deliverance, in 1128, endow- ing it richly with revenues. Doubt- less David had the design of deposit- ing in the abbey the Holy Rood or fragment of the true cross brought by his mother, St. Margaret, from Waltham Abbey. The existmg Ch., or Eoyal Chapel, on the N. side of the Palace, is of later date, and consists of the nave of the Abbey Churd], only ; the choir and transept have disappeared. In the old choir were married all the Scottish kings since James L ; and in front of the present E. window Queen ]\Iary married Darnley. The finest portion of the Ch. is the "W. front, which has been elbowed and intruded on by the Palace. Well worth notice is the W. front and doorway, composed of six shafts and orders of mouldings, with foliage ex- quisitely undercut, but now black- ened with smoke. The nave consists of eight bays with side aisle. One circular arch remains on the S. side of the aisle, a fragment of the original building of David L ; the remainder is of the first pointed style, and be- longs to the latter part of the 12th cent. The ch. suffered considerably when the English, under Lord Hert- ford, burnt the Palace, in their inva- sion of 1544 ; but it was repaired, 1633, by Charles L, and at the Re- storation was converted into a Chapel Royal, having previously been the parish ch. of the Canongate. In con- sequence of this promotion it was fitted up most gorgeously, but at the Reformation its grandeur only ren- 3f;red it more obnoxious to the mob, who plundered and burnt it, and also broke into the vault, which had been used as the royal sepulchre, and con- tained the remains of David II., James II., James V., and his wife IMagdalen ; the murdered Rizzio was buried in the chapel by the express orders of Queen Mary ; and in the roj^al vault, on Feb. 11, 1567, was secretly interred Lord Darnley, two days after his mysterious murder. | Tlie remains of Mary of Gueldres were removed hither from Trinity Ch. when it was pulled down. In the mid- dle of the last cent, a plan for repair- ing the chapel was eventually carried out (1758) ; but so hea-s'y a roof was put on, that in 1772 it fell in. Every- thing portable was then carried "&,way, .^ including the skull of Queen Mary of ^ Guise, which was entire. The ruins • are now sadly defaced by time. I. The Palace of Holyrood was begun by Kin g^ James IV., and completed by his successor James V. ; Sir James Hamilton of Trimarty, who had been employed on the Palaces of Lin- lithgow, Falkland, and Stirling, being the architect. This palace was burned by the English under the Earl of Hertford, 1544, and again by the soldiers of Cromwell, 1650, the only part which escaped being the wings and towers at the N. W. angle, which ,, were occupied by Queen Mary from ^ the time of her return from France, 1561, and which possess a great but S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh : Hohjrood Palace. 55 painful historic interest in conse- quence. Queen Marys Apartments. — A door on the K side of the inner court, left as you enter, under the colonnade, leads up to them by a winding staircase. The rooms on the first floor were those of Darnley. They communicated by a private stair, in the thickness of the wall, with those of Queen Mary on the second floor. These consist of an audience-chamber, a bedroom with an old tattered bed, said to be that of the queen, and of two small cabinets within the angle towers. In the narrow cabinet or boudoir, entered from the bedroom, Mary and a small party were at supper, March 9, 1566, when Darnley and Euthven, followed by other conspirators, en- tered for the purpose of seizing Kizzio, an accomplished Italian secretary and skilful musician, who had gained the queen's confidence and roused the jealousy of the Presbyterian lords and ministers of the kirk. Suspect- ing their purpose, Rizzio threw him- self behind the queen, and caught hold of her dress, but w'as stabbed by George Douglas, leaning over the queen's shoulder, while the ruSian Ker of Fawdonside held a pistol at her breast, she being at the time seven months gone with child ! Rizzio, having been dragged out into the outer room, was despatched by fifty- six w^ounds, and his body thrown down the stairs, ^vithDarnley's dagger left sticking in it. Some dark stains are still shown on the floor as the marks of his blood. The present palace was in great part rebuilt in the reign of Charles II., after a design by Sir William Bruce, and was a copy of the Chateau de Chantilly, the residence of the family of Conde. The royal apartments are on the E. side. They have been in- habited by James VIl. when Duke of York, by Prince Chas. Edw. in 1745, and by the Duke of Cumber- land ; by Louis XVIII ; by Chas. X. of France, both before his elevation to, and after his displacement from the throne. Her present Majesty has occasionally spent a night or two here on her way to Balmoral. It is, how- ever, pretty well deserted b}^ royalty, as expressed by Hamilton of Ban- gour, Avho called it "a virtuous palace where no monarch dwells." The Picture Gallery, in which the Representative Peers of Scotland are elected, is 150 ft. in length, 27 in breadth, and 18 in height. The walls are hung with portraits of 106 Scot- tish kings, who, as Sir Walter Scott observes, " if they ever existed lived several hundred j^ears before the in- vention of painting in oil." Else- where he inquires " the reason why the kings should each and every one be painted with a nose like the knocker of a door?" One De Witt was the painter (1684-86). At the farther end are four pictures, of con- siderable historic and artistic value : 1. Represents James III. and his son; 2. his wife, Margaret of Denmark ; 3. the Holy Trinity ; 4. Sir Edward Bonkil, Provost of Trinity College Church, where the last two (with a third, since lost) formed the altar- piece. These pictures were carried to Hampton Court at the Union, and removed hither, 1862, by permission of the queen. Prince Charles Edward held his court in Holyrood Palace. His army was encamped at the back of Arthur's Seat, near Duddingston, the Prince constantly reviewing them, and often sleeping in the camp. The precincts of Holyrood aff"ord shelter' to insolvent debtors, a privi- lege granted by David I. in his ori- ginal charter. The limits of this sanctuary include the grounds to the E. of the Palace, Salisbury Crags, and Arthur's Seat, a circuit of at least 4 miles. m. A little S. of Holyrood extends a large open space called the Queens Park. Here is an elegant Gothic 56 lUe. 4c. — Edinburgh: Arthur's Seat ; Greyfriars. Sect. I. vault, called St. Margaret's Well, supported by a central pillar, from which descended a fountain for the benefit of pilgrims. It dates from the time of James IV., and "was brought from Restalrig hither. Salisbury Crags (origin of the name uncertain) forms a bold trap cliff, nnder which is a walk called tbe Radical Road, from having been formed by discontented persons out of emj)loyment in 1819. n. Separated from it by the Hlint- ^ er's Bog, now the Volunteer Rifle I Range, rises Arthur s Seat, whose massive and abrupt form, surmounted by the unmistakable outline of a re- cumbent lion, constitutes the strik- ing feature in all views of Edinburgh. Though only 820 ft. high, it is in character and mass a mountain.^ A magnificent view is to be obtained from the top, exceeding that from the castle. Geologically * speaking, Arthur's Seat consists of two por- tions, one of sandstone, greenstone, and ash-beds of Lower Carboniferous date. This is covered unconformably by the second portion, which is made up of various volcanic ejections. The ascent may be effected in h hour, driving as far as Dunsappie Loch. The stranger should not omit to walk or drive round the winding road called Queens Drive, from which he will see the pretty village and loch of Duddingston, the winter resort of skaters and curlers, and then, passing under the porphyritic columns of Samson's Ribs, will come upon a locality replete with associations of " The Heart of Midlothian," " St. Leonard's Hill," where Eltie Deans dwelt, and, on the N. slope, St. Anthony's Chapel in ruins, be- low which is "Musliet's Cairn." * The Geology of Edinburgh is curious and most instructive. It may be best studied from " Tlie Maps and Memoirs of the Geological Survey," to be procured at W. & A. K. Johnston's, 4 St. Andrew Sq. 0. The secon,d thoroughfare of the Old Town is the Cowgate, built in 1500, and then considered a fashion- able suburb. It is now one of the poorest, and is a narrow, dirty lane, abounding in Irish. The lower end, called South Back of Canongate, is chiefly occupied by breweries, and comparatively open. The Cowgate is traversed by George IV. Bridge, which leads from the High Street to the Greyfriars ; it was erected 1825-30. At its side rises the square battlemented tower and short spire of ^S*^. Magdalen^ s Chafpel, a Gothic building, founded 1505, attached to the " Corporation of Hammermen." The Cowgate ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which, on S. side, is the Corn Exchange, built in 1849. p. To the E. of Heriot's Hospital are the Greyfriars' Churches {Old and Neiv) and Burying -Ground, from which an excellent view may be ob- tained of the castle and S. side of Old Town. The Avhole of this ground was formerly a garden belonging to the monastery of Greyfriars, founded by James I. In this ch.-5^ard were penned and guarded the 1200 prisoners taken at Bothwell Brig, no prison being large enough to hold them. The very plain churches stand nearly E. and W. A guide to the position of the monuments. Observe S.W. corner the tomb of Principal Robertson, grand-uncle of Lord Brougham ; historian of Scot- land and of Charles V. ; and the wise leader of the kirk for 20 years. Here also are the graves of Allan Ramsay, poet ; Hugh Blair ; Mackenzie, "the Man of Feeling ;" Dr. M 'Crie, biogra- pher of John Knox ; Geo. Buchanan, the historian whose only memorial is an iron plate erected by a Avorking man ; Jos. Black, chemist, N. E. " In this venerable cemetery, which contains the dust of all the contending factions of Scottish his- S.Scotland. Edinburgh: Heriofs Hos. ; Watson's Hos. 57 tory — where the monument of the Covenanters recounts their praises almost within sight of the Grass- market where they died ; where rest the noblest leaders both of the mo- derate and of the stricter party, there rises, S. side, another stately monu- ment, at once the glory and the shame of Scottish Liberals. It is the ponderous centre tomb, bolted and barred, of Sir George Mackenzie, King's Advocate under James XL, and as such prosecutor of the Cove- nanters. He it is of whom Davie Deans has said, that ' he will be kenned by the name of Bloody Mac- kenzie so long as there's a Scot's tongue to speak the word. ' " — Dean Stanley's " Church of Scotland." It was popularly believed that his corpse would not remain quiet in the grave. Standing above the N. wall, you look down upon the house, at the head of the Cowgate, in wh, Ld. Brougham was born. Old and New Greyfriars Churches form one long line of building, the eastern portion being termed Old Greyfriars. This church was origin- ally erected in 1612, partially de- stroyed in 1718, and totally burnt in 1845. The present building has been erected since, and contains some good stained glass. Dr. Eobert- son, the eminent historian, was min- ister here in 1762. New Greyfriars Ch., built in 1721, contains nothing worthy of note. q. George IV. Bridge conducts to HerioVs Ilospital, the Scotch equi- valent for Christ's Hospital, London, occupying the high ground S. of the Grassmarket, commanding a fine view of the castle. Orders to see it may be obtained daily, except Sat. and Sunday, 12 to 3, from the office of the Treasurer, Eoyal Exchange, High Street. There is no fee. No city in the world is more rich in charitable and educational establish- ments than Edinburgh, which, in ad- dition to tlie advantages they offer to the inhabitants, constitute by their buildings one of its principal orna- ments. Of these the oldest and richest is the hospital founded by George Heriot, goldsmith and jewel- ler to James VI., who, dying in 1624, left his property to the Town-Council of Edinburgh, to build an hospital for the maintenance and education of poor and fatherless boys, the sons of freemen in the city. The building was begun in 1628 and finished in 1650, at a cost of £30,000. It was designed by William Aytoun * (though long attributed to Inigo Jones). Its architecture, a mixture of Italian and Gothic, is very original and deserves inspection. "When Cromwell took possession of the city after the battle of Dunbar he placed his sick and wounded here, and it continued to be used as a military hospital till 1659, when General Monk removed the patients, and it was then opened according to the intentions of the founder. It is a square building, witli towers at the corners, each tower rising a storey above the main building, aud surmounted by 4 small projecting turrets. A picturesque gateway leads into a quadrangle 94 ft. each way, very like an Oxford college. Above the entrance is a statue of the founder. The Gothic Chajiel, restored 1836, contains some painted windows, and is fitted up with dark oak. Besides this are shown the dining-room, dormitory, reading-rooms, containing portraits of ex- officials, etc. It now receives 180 boys, and there are also seven- teen schools in the city in connec- tion with the Hospital, where, for a small fee, children get an elementary education. These schools are at- tended by upwards of 4000 children ; and there are eight schools open for gratuitous evening instruction, at- tended by about 1300 young men and women. Edinburgh possesses several other * Burton's "Hist, of Scotland," vii. p. 103, Note. 58 Route 4. — Edinburgh : University. Sect. I. great educational establishments — now placed under the excellent management of the Merchant Com- pany — a, that founded by the will of George AVatson, a merchant's clerk, and afterwards accountant to the Bank of Scotland, who died in 1723, has a revenue of £1700 per annum, and under the new arrangement 1000 boys and 500 girls are educated, sixty being foundationers, the others ]^aying moderate fees. The Merchant Company have also under their man- agement Daniel Stewart's Institution for boys (formerly an hospital, now, • under the powers of a provisional order, a day-school). James Gilles- pie's Schools for boys and girls (also formerly an hospital), and a large girls' school, formed from the nucleus of the Merchant ]\Iaiden Hospital. These educational establishments pro- vide a cheap, and in some instances a gratuitous, education for the child- ren of the mercantile classes, and are largely taken advantage of, the course of instruction being in general emi- nently satisfactory. The Meadows axe a sort of inclosed park, which with Bruntsfield Links formed a part of the Borough Moor, where, in 1336, Guy Count of Na- mur, with reinforcements for the army of Edward III., then at Perth, was encountered and defeated by the Earl of Moray. Upon this ground, too, James IV. reviewed his forces before marching to Flodden. The Bore Stone, in which it is said his standard was stuck, is still to be seen built into a wall at Morningside. Overlooking the Meadows is t\\Q Neic Infirmary, in course of construction. Five detached blocks have already been erected, and it is intended to ex- tend the building as far as Lauris- ton, about 800 yards farther north. r. The University (S. end of South Bridge) is a massive building, entered by a triple archway. It was founded in 1582 by James VI., and is now justly celebrated for the excellence of its medical school, which is hardly surpassed by any other in Europe. The building Avas pulled down in 1789, and the present front, styled by Fergusson ' ' a truthful and well- balanced design," is Eob. Adam's best work. The quadrangle was finished by Playfair. " The aggregate annual value of the Fellowships and Scholar- ships (all founded since 1858) is about £3400. There are above 100 bursaries in connection w^ith the Faculty of Arts, and 24 in Divinity, besides some newly founded in Law and Medicine." There are 38 professors, and about 2000 students. The University Session begins in November and ends in April ; but there is another for medical students from May to July. The Library, in a room 198 ft., by 50. Its collection of books is nearly 150,000. ^'^' Opposite the Col- lege Infirmary-street, with the Medi- cal and Surgical Hospitals — the lat- ter, at the foot of the street, was, till 1829, the Royal High School. Drummond-street, leading out of South Bridge, opposite the College, occupies in part the site of The Kirl'-o'-Fifld, in which stood Darn- 1%5^'S'house,' i\'hich was blown up, with him in it, 10th Feb. 1567. Near this is the Grecian Portico of Surgeon's Hall, by Playfair, one of his best works. The house in which "Walter Scott was born Aug. 15, 1771, near the head of College Wynd, was pulled down about 1871. Chambers-street occupies the site. s. Behind the University to the "W., in Chambers-street, is the Edinlurgh Museum of Science and Art — a hand- some edifice of stone, iron, and glass, after the fashion of the Museum at South Kensington. The Brst stone of it was laid by the Prince Consort on the 23rd Oct. 1861. It is Vene- tian in character, from designs by the late Capt. Fowke. The E. wing is devoted to the Natural History Collection (removed from the Col- S.Scotland. R.L — Edinhurgh : Neio Toivn ; Calton Hill. 59 lege). Suspended from the roof is a perfect skeleton of a Greenland whale {Physalis antiquarum), 79 ft. long, an animal almost extinct. Specimens of the gorilla from the Gaboon, of the yak from the Kara- corum Mountains, etc. The minerals, fossils, etc., including the collection formed by Hugh Miller, are very good. The Geology of Scotland is illustrated in the most complete and instructive manner by the specimens, sections, etc.^ collected by officers of the Geological Survey. The contents of the Highland and Agricultural Society's Museum have been removed hither. There is a very interesting series of models of Scottish Light- houses, including the Bell Rock, Skerr5'-vore, and Dim Heartach, 15 m. W. of lona — all marvels of con- structive ingenuity. Other galleries are occupied with works of art of all times and countries, with raw materials fitted for manufacturing processes, and a collection of Indian and Chinese curiosities. t. New Town. Edinburgh is in fact two distinct cities. From the Old Town of condensed lofty build- ings and nan-ow wynds you cross the Mound into one as difierent as possible, of wide streets, open spaces and low houses, handsome, but on the whole monotonous, always ex- cepting Princes-street, already de- scribed. It was begun about 1767, upon a plan proposed by James Craig, architect, and nephew of the poet Thomson, although the original de- sign has been considerably extended by the addition of new squares and terraces. To appreciate this contrast, as well as to obtain one of the most interesting views of Edinburgh, it is indispensable for the stranger to ascend the Calton Hill. u. At the E. end of Princes-street (or strictly of its continuation, Waterloo-place) rises the Calton Hill, beset wdth numerous monuments, the general effect of which at a dis- tance is not unpleasing. The top of the hill is occupied, it is true, by ISTelson's Monument, a building which has been likened to a butter- churn or a telescope. It was com- pleted in 1815. Adm. 3d. to go up to the top to see the view. To the N.E. stands the most pro- minent object, the National Monu- ment, raised to those who fell in the Peninsula and the "Waterloo cam- paign ; a building intended to have been a restoration of the Parthenon in its perfect state, but which is a much nearer copy of the temple of Minerva as it stands at present. It was commenced in 1822, and the completion of every column cost £1000. AVhen it arrived at its pre- sent state no more funds were forth- coming. To the N.W. is the Ob- servatory. On the S.W. is Dagald Stewart'' s Monument, copied from that of Jjysicrates at Athens, commonly called "The Lan thorn of Demos- thenes." Beyond this is Professor Playfair's, a rectangular, heavy ceno- taph. V. At the base of the hill in the Regent-road is the Boyal High School, built in 1825. It was founded in the 12th cent., and remodelled 1598. The actual building, a happy adaptation (Hamilton, architect) of the Temple of Theseus in Athens, comprises a centre, 2 wings, and 2 lodges, extending 400 ft. in front, and was erected at a cost of £30,000. The number of pupils is about 400. To the south is Burns's Monument, erected in 1830. The body of it is circular, surrounded by 12 columns. The cupola is a copy of the monu- ment of Lysicrates at Athens. It contains some relics of Burns. On the left stands the Prison, a castellated building in a prominent situation, overhanging the North British Eailway. TFatcrloo-place extends to the foot of the Calton Hill, and on the right 60 Route 4. — Edinburgh: Scott Monument. Sect. I. is the Calton old Burying-Ground, in which there is a tower-like monu- ment to David Hume, and a lofty obelisk to the five premature Radical Reformers, transported for sedition 1818, and now styled martyrs to the cause of popular freedom. Public appreciation of their e^orts was rather tardy, for the monument was not raised till 1845. At the corner of N". Bridge is the Post-office, a lofty, handsome Italian edifice, the first stone of which was laid by the late Prince Consort, 23d Oct. 1861, his last appearance at any public ceremony. w. right At the end of Frinces-st., the fine building, Avith a central cupola, opposite the N. bridge, is the Register Office, designed by Adam, in which all public documents relating to Scotland are kept, such as regis- trations of births, deaths, and mar- riages, and also the register of all deeds conveying or charging landed ])roperty in Scotland. Strangers are admitted to see some of the valuable State Papers, Autographs, Letters of Q. Mary, etc. In front stands an equestrian Statue of the Ditke of Wellington, by Steell, erectedin 1852. St. Andrew Street leads into St. Andrew Square, which contains on E. side the ISTational Bank, British Linen Co.'s Bank, and the Eoyal Bank, all handsome buildings. In front of the last is a statue of the Earl of Hopetoun. In the centre of the square is a pillar surmounted by a statue of the 1st Lord Melville, who was impeached by the House of Com- mons, but acquitted. The statue is 14 ft. high, and the whole is 150 ft. from the ground. It was erected in 1828, and cost £8000. Left Waverley Bridge gives access to the Old Town, and to the North British Railway Station. The following objects of interest are passed in walking along Princes- street from E. to W. Directly above the "Waverley Bridge rises the Scott Monument, a graceful Gothic cross or spire, with pinnacles, resting on 4 pointed arches, the piers of which are strengthened by 4 outer piers, forming lancet arches, and serving to buttress up the whole structure. It thus forms a canopy of open arches to enclose the statue. It was erected in 1844, from the designs of George Kemp, an architect previouslj'- un- known to fame, who did not live to see his plans completed. He was an intense admirer of ]\Ielrose Abbey, and has endeavoured in this monu- ment to combine all the character- istics and proportions of that build- ing. Thus the monument may be said to consist of a pile of arches, gradually decreasing in size till the Avhole terndnates in a single pin- nacle. An interior staircase (ad- mission 2d.) conducts to the top, which is 200 ft. from the gi"ound. Above the principal arches, and in various parts of the structure, are niches, filled with statues represent- ing the most prominent characters in Sir "Walter's novels. Beneath the main arches is placed a statue of Sir Walter Scott and his dog, by Steell, a first rate work of art. The uppermost house on the right in St. David-street was the last residence of David Hume, who died in it, 1776. AVest of Scott's Monu- ment is a statue to Professor "Wil- son in bronze, by Steell — a verj^ good likeness, and a fine work of art. X. 1. The Mound, a raised cause- wa}', connecting the Old and New Towns, was formed of the earth dug out for the foundations of the latter. At the N. end of it is the Royal In- stitution (Playfair, archt.) (admis- sion, Tues., Wed., and Sat., free; Thurs. and Fri., 6d.), of which the N. side was completed in 1836. It is an oblong building, of the Grecian- Doric style. " The porticoes cover entrance, and the flank colonnades are stepped against blocks, which S. Scotland. Pde. 4. — Edinburgh : Antiquarian Museum. 61 give them character and meaning, and the whole is well proportioned." — Fergussons " Modern Architec- ture." It is to be regretted that such a handsome building should have been put on such a site, when so many other good positions might have been available. In this building is placed the very interesting * iVa^io^ia/ Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland (Admission, Tues., "Wed., and Sat., free ; Thur. and Fri., 6d,) — not only a depository of historic relics and ob- jects of value, but, from its excellent arrangement and copious catalogue, (price 6d.), a school of instruction in relation to the primitive civi- lisation of iST. Britain. Not to dwell on the Egyptian antiquities, the like of which may be seen elsewhere, except to point out a "funereal canopy" in the form of a temple, we pass on to the Antiquities found in Scotland, illustrating what are called the Stone, Bronze, and Iron periods. Obsen'C, a vast assemblage of stone and bronze Celts, and other primi- tive implements ; whorls of sjiin- dles used for hand-spinning : querns or hand-mills for grinding corn, which continued in use to the end of the 17th cent, in the noi-th ; 3 -legged bronze pots for cooking ; burnt and glazed stones from Fi7?7'- fcd Foists ; ax^s, utensils, ornaments, and other relics found in Picts' houses, brochs, weems (or under- ground dwellings) "; relics from Scot- tish lake-dwellings ; from Carlin- wark and Dowalton Lochs ; personal ornaments of gold and silver — arm- lets, torques, chains, and Celtic brooches ; do., found at Sandwick Orkney, along with. Anglo-Saxon and Cu/k Coins of the Caliphs of Bagdad, 10th cent. ; Casts of sculptured stone monuments and crosses, in- cluding that of Kuthwell, Dum- friesshire, Campbeltown, Argyll, and other parts of Scotland ; memorial inscriptions from various parts of Scotland— in Agham characters from Shetland, Aberdeenshire, etc. ; in ancient Celtic or Pictish, from St. Vigeans, Forfarshire ; in Latin, from Kirkliston, Midlothian, and Kirk- madrine, Wigtownshire ; and in Scan- dinavian Eimes, from Maeshow, Ork- ney, and the Isle of Man ; monu- ments, altars, and inscriptions found on the line of the Eoman Wall be- tween Forth and Clyde — a Sculp- TahJ'et, 9 ft. long, representing on one side a Sacrifice (Suovetam'ilia), on the other Eoman cavalry ti-ampling down the Caledonians, dedicated to the'Emperor Antoninus Pius by the 2d Legion, stating that they had built 4652 paces of the wall ; bronze patellie or saucepans ; a Eoman ocu- list's stamp ; ancient cannon and fire- arms ; Eobert -Burns's pistols, used by him as an exciseman ; a bronze battle-axe found at Bannockburn ; Lochaber axes ; flags borne by the Covenanters at Bothwell Brig, etc. ; relics found in the grave of Eobert Bruce at Dunfermline in 1818, and a cast of his skull ; the piiljnt from which John Knox preached ; the folding stool which Jenny Geddes threw at the head of the Dean of St. Giles's Church when he began to read the Liturgy ; the stool of penitence, from Old Grey friars Church, etc. ; the sackcloth gown worn by penitents while standing on the stool, from West Calder ; the jougs, a sort of iron collar, from Galashiels Church ; various charms against witchcraft ; The Maiden, an early form of the guil- lotine, in use during the 16th cent. — the Eegent E. of Morton, erroneously said to have been its inventor, 1581, and the Marquis of Argyle, were be- headed by it ; brass collar, gifted by the Justiciaries, of a Scotch convict condemned for theft as a perpetual serf, as late perhaps as 1701 ; relics of Prince Charles Stuart — miniatures of him and his family, his ribbon of the Garter ; the sea-chest and carved cocoa-nut cup which belonged to Alex. Selkirk— the original of Eob- inson Crusoe, cast away on Juan 62 Route 4. — Edinburgh : National Gallery. Sect. I. Fernandez — tliey came from Largo, his birthplace. This collection of historic and antiquarian relics is well worth the stranger's notice, y. To the south of the Eoyal Insti- tution stands the National Gallery (admission, free on Tues., AVed., and Sat. ; Thurs. and Fri., free to artists, to public 6d ; catalogues, 6d. ) It contains good examples of Scotch artists — Kasmyth, Stirling Castle; Portrait of Robert Burns, bequeathed by the poet's son ; Sir John Watson Gordon, Portrait of Sir Walter Scott ; J. Phillrp, Spanish Boys ; J. Facd, Annie's Tryst ; Raehurn, first-rate Portraits— of ]\[rs. ]\Ioncrief, Lord Newton, Francis Horner, Dr. Adams ; W. Dyce, Francesca di Rimini ; H. TV. Williams, Views of Sunium and Athens ; Wilkie, John Knox admin- istering the Sacrament ; Sir Edioin Landseer, "Rent day in the Wild- erness" (a bequest* of Sir Roderick Murchison). Sir Josh. Reynolds, Edmund Burke ; " The Origin of Paint- ing," by David Allan; and works by Geddes, Roberts, R. Lauder, MacCul- loch, Sir G. Harvey, Thomson, Doug- las, Herdman, and other Scottish artists. Of foreign masters may be mentioned Titian, Adoration of the Kings. The Lomellini Family, a first- rate work of Van Dyk's best time, in- cluding 5 whole-length portraits ; but perhaps the gem of the collection is the Honble. Mrs. Graham, whole- length, by Gainsborough. Observe, also, Flaxman's statue of Bums ; Sir John Moore, Sir T. Law- rence ; the 7)oet Gay, AiJcman ; Oberon and Titania, Paton ; Judith and Holofernes, and The Combat, Etty : The Porteous Mob, Drum- Tnond ; Interior of St. Peter's, Pan- nini ; Flemish Landscape, Ruysdael. The New Club in Princes-st. is on the plan of the best London clubs. Among its members are the chief gentry and aristocracy of Scotland. The other clubs in Edinburgh are the United Service Club, Queen-st. ; the University Club, Princes-st. ; the Northern Club, George-st. ; and the City Club, Princes-st. z. 1. In West Princes-st. Gardens, opposite the New Club, is a marble statue by Steell of Allan Ramsay. These gardens are not public pro- pert}'' like those to the E. of the Mound, but admittance can easily be obtained by application to the hotels or booksellers' shops opposite. A military band plays here once or twice a week in summer, on which occasions admission is virtually unrestricted. The walks through them under the black rock of the castle are charming. They offer one of the best approaches to it for pedestrians, who will see on the way the remains of the Wellhouse Tower. 1. St, John's Episcopal Church stands at the W. end of Princes-st. Its style of architecture is Florid Gothic, with details after the model of St. George's Cliapel, Windsor. Just behind is St, Cuthbert's Parish Kirk, In the West Churchyard, in the S,AV. corner, is the grave of Thomas de Quincey, "the Opium Eater, " There is now building at the back of the castle — Castle Terrace — a theatre, winter-garden, and aquarium, the project of a joint-stock company. At this end of Princes-st,, near Lothian-rd,, is the Caledonian Rail- icay Stat., whence start trains for Carlisle, Glasgow, Dumfries, Stran- raer, etc. At the W, end of the town, on a line vAih. Maitland-st., is the Hay- market Stat, of the N, B, Railway, a little bej^ond which is a winter- garden, open to the public, belonging to Downie and Laird, nurserjnaftn. A new episcopal Cathedral Ch., to cost £40,000, is being built at the W. end of Melville-st., from a be- quest of Miss Walker of Coates, The design is by Sir G, G, Scott, architect, Passing through Maitland-st, and Glasgow-rd. , a good view is obtained S. Scotland. Route 4. — Edinburgh : Dean Bridge. 63 of *Doiialclsov!s Hosjntal, the hand- somest and best situated Wlding of the kind in Edinburgh, and the masterpiece of the architect Playfair. (Admission on Tuesdays and Fridays, 2 to 4.) Donaldson was a printer, who died in 1830, and left £200,000 for the education and maintenance of 200 boys and girls. Ninety-two of the children are deaf mutes. aa. Parallel with Princes-st., and connected with it by 5 cross streets, runs George-sL, bounded on the E. by St. Andrew-square, with the Mel- ville Column, and on the W, by Charlotte-square and St. George's Ch., and the monument to the Prince Consort. It would be a some- what monotonous avenue of uniform houses were it not for the brilliant shops which enliven it, and some handsome buildings, as the Com- mercial Bank opposite St. Andrew's (the Ch. marked by a tall spire), the Music Hall and Assembly Rooms, in Avhich Sir Walter Scott first made a public confession that he was the author of Waverley, in 1827. Nearly opposite is the shop of Mr. Black- wood, the publisher of the " Maga- zine, " and the resort in times past of Prof. Wilson, Lockhart, Hogg, ]\[oir, and many other distinguished writers. No. 39 Castle-st., a few yards N. of George-st., Avas the dwelling of Sir Walter Scott from 1800 to 1826. On quitting it he wrote — " It has sheltered me from the prime of life to its decline." Along the length of George-st. runs a row of public monuments : a statue of George IV. at the intersec- tion of Hanover-st., and of AVm. Pitt, Frederick-st. , both b)'' Chantrcy. Farther on will be placed a statue of Dr. Chalmers, a very characteristic likeness by SteelL who is also en- gaged upon the Scottish National Monument to the Prince Consort, which will close the vista in the centre of Charlotte-square. This re- markable group of sculpture consists of an equestrian statue of the Prince, surrounded by 8 figures of the vari- ous classes of the community : the aristocracy, the intellectual and teaching class, the working and agri- cultural class, etc., all in attitudes testifying respect to the Prince's merits. hh. At the N.W. corner of Edin- burgh the Water of Leith is crossed by the Dean Bridge, at the height of more than 100 ft. above its bed, one of Telford's best designs, consisting of 4 arches, each of 96 ft. span. Seen from the bridge is a Doric temple, placed on the river bank below, and containing a statue of Hygeia, raised above the mineral well of St. Bernard. The design was by Nasmyth, and a copy of the Sibyl's Temjile at Tivoli. Crossing the Dean Bridge to the left we reach the *Dean Cemetery, in which many men of note are buried, such as Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn, and Piutherfurd, Prof. Wilson (Christo- pher North), Alison, etc. The re- turn from W. to E. may be made by George-st. Close beside the Dean Cemetery is what was for long used as Daniel Stevarfs Hospital, a large building in Elizabethan style of archi- tecture, but which is now occupied as one of the Merchant Co.'s schools for boys. In the immediate neighbour- hood there is also an Orphan Hospital, and John Watson's Hosp. — all fine buildings. About 1 mile north of Dean Bridge and a little to the right of Queens- ferry road, on a gentle eminence, rises The Fettes College, which well de- serves to be visited, both as a re- markably fine building and for the view it commands of Edinburgh. It is a good specimen of architecture, imitating successfully the Domestic Gothic of Scotland, with a tower and spire over the central archway, pro- jecting oriels, and bartizan turrets. Behind are a hall and chapel of good Dec-Gothic — the whole is of the finest masonry ; the capitals, .string- 64 Route 4. — Edinburgh : Fettes College. Sect. I. courses, window frames, foliage, and masques, are carved with the most perfect finish. It is from the design of David Bryce, and cost about £60,000, '.the funds having been furnished by a bequest of a Sir William Fettes, a rich banker, to found an educational institution. The Fettes College is a public school for the education of boys of the upper classes, 40 being foundationers. The system adopted is from the best parts of the schemes of Eton, Winchester, and Rugby, to furnish at a moderate cost an educa- tion fit for sons of gentlemen. Each boy has a separate bedroom ; the food is supplied by the institution, and not by the masters. A little to the west is St. Cuthhcrfs Poorliouse. cc. Eminent natives of Edinburgh and Residents. — Sir Walter Scott, born Aug. 15th, 1771, on the site of the University. Henry Brougham in the 3d flat of a house at the head of the Cowgate, Sept. 19, 1778 {see Register of St. Giles). His mother, Miss Syme, was niece of Principal Robertson, the historian ; his father was a cloth merchant. Sir David Baird, in Castle-hill, in a house which once belonged to the Gordon family. His father was Baird of Newbyth. Francis Horner was born in High-st, 1794. Sir Henry Rae- burn, the portrait-painter, was born at Stockbridge 1756. The painters Allan Ramsay, 1713 ; Runciman, David Roberts, 1796, and Nasmyth, 1758, were also natives of Edinburgh. Dr. Chalmers' favourite residence was at Morningside, where he died. He is buried in the Gn-ange Cemetery, on S. of the Meadows. David Hume lived in St. David-st. At the E. end of Princes-st. is Leith-walk, where stood the Theatre Royal, burned 1875. In this posi- tion an earthwork was erected against Cromwell : it was afterwards con- verted into a "Walk," and finally opened out into the present roadway. Historic Notes on Edinburgh. In the 7th centy. a military station was formed on the Castle Hill by Edwin, King of Northumbria, and the town which grew up under its protection was called by his name. David I., in a charter, calls it "Burgo meo de Edwinesburg, " from which it may be gathered that it was made a royal burgh before his time, probably by Malcolm Canmore. The early history of the city is in reality the history of the castle. Edinburgh did not become the capital of the kingdom till the middle of the 15th centy., when the murder of James 1. disgusted the court with Perth. King James II., grateful for the interest shown in his behalf when he was at variance with his nobles, erected the city into a Sheriffdom within itself, and presented to the incorporated trades a banner or standard, which has since been known by the name of the Blue Blanket, and is still preserved. The city gradually increased in wealth and importance till 1544, when it was seriously injured by the English under the Earl of Hertford. This wanton destruction, followed by a century of civil and religious discord, with many will account for the poverty of its ancient architecture and the absence of buildings of any great age. Of old public buildings there are none ; and no older date than that of James V. is claimed for any part of Holyrood Palace, and that only for 2. of the towers. There are only a | few houses upon which may be seen a date prior to the accession of James VI. to the English throne. This event gave an impulse to building all over the country. Within the last ten years especially, much build- ing has been going on in Edinburgh, S.Scotland. Boute i. — Edbiburgh : Leith; Granton. Qb and a number of handsome new streets and houses have been erected. The progress of the town is chiefly towards the S. and W, Notwith- standing this, houses are difficult to get, and rent is high. Environs and Excursions. a. Leith, Trinity (Newhaven), Granton. Railioay Stat, in Leith Walk or at Waverley Bridge ; trains every 5 hr. Leith has been the port of Edin- burgh since the days of Robert Bruce, and has witnessed the landing of many a royal personage. In 1561 Mary Queen of Scots was received with great ceremony on her arrival from Calais ; and George IV. landed here in 1822. In 1560 the French raised here a fortress, in which they planted a strong garrison to main- tain the authority of the Guises in Scotland. Queen Elizabeth despatch- ed a fleet to expel them from Leith. It is at present an independent Pari. Burgli, with a Pop. of near 50,000, and carries on a very great trade in corn and timber from the Baltic, besides wine from France -and Spain, and esparto (for paper) from Oran and Almeria. The cones of its huge glass-works are conspicuous from a distance. There are large manufactures of cordage, sailcloth, machinery, soap, oil-cake, etc. Be- sides these, there are shipbuilding yards, and 2 of the largest Flour Mills in the country, that of Todd, where 99 pairs of stones work under one roof, and that of Gibson and Walker at Bonnington. The old harbour, the estuary of the black and foul Water of Leith ("quasi Lethe," quoth Dr. Johnson, " because Scotchmen embarking here forget their own country"), divides the town into S. and N. Leith. Opening from it to the W. are the Victoria and wet docks ; to the E. {Scotland.'] the Albert Dock, excavated out of the E. sands. The last has a water area of 14 acres, and was opened in 1869. On its quays may be seen Sir William Armstrong's Scientific Hy- draulic Cranes, for raising cargoes. The entrance to this harbour is by two Piers stretching into the sea 1000 yards. Near tlie mouth a Martello Tower rises out of tlie sea. Leith Fort, to the N.W., Avas one of the 3 Citadels built by Cromwell for keeping the Scots in order. It is now of no strength as a defence — little more than an Artillery Barrack. Leith is the cradle of the Gladstone family. There is a Church here founded by them. Registered ships, 1873, 201 vessels = 65,692 tons. Total number of vessels entered inwards, 1873 — 3635 = 768,825 tons. To the W. of Leith is Nev.iha.ven, celebrated for its fishing and its fish-dinners. The fishwives of the village are noted for their peculiar costume, and may be seen in all parts of Edinburgh selling fish, the produce of their husbands' or fathers' labour. Their high reputation for morality (see Chas. Reade's novel " Christie Johnstone "), though exag- gerated, is not wholly undeserved. The Newhaven fishers are of Jutland origin, and are singularly conser- vative in their household customs. They rarely marry outside of their own race ; the men are celebrated for their skilful seamanship and hardy daring ; the women are noted for their keenness in driving a bar- gain {vide " The Antiquary"). It is a pleasant walk or driv^e of 2 m. from Edinburgh to Granton Pier, by Inverleith-row, stopping by all means to visit on the way the * Royal Bo- tanic Gardens (free admission daily, except Sunday), which is remarkable for the beauty of its walks, the order of its an-angement, its fine trees, and for the most truly pictorial View of Edinburgh which it commands. It d2 66 Route 4. — Edinburgh : Excursions. Sect. I. includes a very extensive Pinetum and arhoretuni, containing many- choice specimens in very healthy condition. The wild garden of Al- pine flowers demonstrates how such plants may be cultivated with per- fect success. The Palm-houses and Foreign Fernery are not surpassed even by Kew. No garden in the kingdom is better managed than this, under Professor Balfotir and Mr. Macnab. Granton Pdy. Stat, on the Pier. Granton is the point at which the Earl of Hertford disembarked his troops when he invaded Scotland in 1544. The magnificent Pier here Avas built entirely at the expense of the Duke of Buccleuch. It was begun in Nov. 1835, and partly opened on the day of the Queen's coronation. It is 1700 ft. in lengtli and from 80 to 160 ft. in breadth, and has the great advantage of being accessible at an}^ state of the tide. The Victoria jetty, from whence the Queen landed and re-embarked in Sept. 1842, is on the W. side, and extends 90 ft. From this pier is the steam ferry to Burntisland, in Fife, a passage of about lialf-an-hour. From this as well as from Leitli the London steamers depart. The trains run down to the steamers lying alongside of the pier. § 2. Hawthornden, Roslin Chapel and Castle, may be reached a. By the high road direct to Roslin, 7 m., through Liberton. h. By carriage via Lasswade to Hawthornden, 11 m., walking thence to Roslin, and sending round the carriage, c. By Railway direct, via Loanhead, 4 trains daily in 40 min., to Pioslin (Rte. 13), the quickest way. Eoslin and Hawthorndeia stand at opposite ends of a romantic glen of the N. Esk, traversed by a footpath 2 m. long. The only entrance to Hawthornden is by the Lodge Gate (admission, Is.), on the high road ; consequently it should be first visited. Quitting HaAvthornden by the lower gate, on the Esk bank, it is a charming walk of 1^ m., thence through the glen to Eoslin Chapel. There is a ]niblic footpath from Lasswade to Eoslin, passing outside the bounds of Hawthornden. (These places are described Ete. 13.) English Service on Sundays in Eos- lin Chapel ; 12i and 4^. Independent of the many interest- ing objects, and the attractive scenery in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, the stranger will find the chief charm of all in the varied and exquisite views of the city itself, and the grand and picturesque heights which sun-ound it, Avhich compose a new natural picture at every turn. §3. 3m.S. E. of Edinburgh, on the way to Dalkeith, may l^e seen, embosomed by trees, ithe ruins of Craicjmillar Castle^ consisting of a "■square toWer* in the centre, anothei- in front, and two circular turrets behind — thewholesurrounded by a high and strong wall, with round towers at the corners. It is a forti- fied house of the 15th cent., with altei'ations and additions of the 17th cent. The central tower is massive and old-fashioned, but is of the same date as the wall that surrounds it. The roof (from which there is a good view of the surrounding country) is formed of large stones. The prin- cipal room in the interior is the hall, which is lofty, and by the ap- pearance of corbels halfway up the side, probably contained a Gallery. The armour of Darnley and portrait of Queen Mary deserve abo\it equal faith in the beholder. The view of Edinburgh and the country around is very striking. Craigmillar was used as a prison for the Earl of Mar, brother to James II., in 1477, and here he is said to have been bled to death. According to Drummond of Hawthornden, however, he was seized with a severe fever, and either bled 4- xl^^i^^-r-i^^^S^'' -^ EDKBtUGH 10 FERTR STIRIjyC ^lELROSE AIOrFAI Ac / / h, )lu f 4U n rlf S. Scotland. Pde. 4. — Environs of Edinburgh. 67 too freely, or in a fit of delirium tore off the bandages. The castle was occupied by James V. during his minority, and ]\Iary lived here for several montlis after the death of Eizzio, 1566. Indeed, the small \allage on the Dalkeith road close by is still called "Little France," from having been the quarters of her French guards. Within the keep a room of peculiarly small dimen- sions is shown as Queen Mary's apartment. At a secret meeting held here between her and ilurray, Leth- ington, and Bothwell, it was proposed to rid her of "her ungi'ateful hus- band " by a divorcement ; but she re- fused to listen, and protested against any step by which " spot might be laid on her honour. " To this place, also, she was brought as a prisoner after the battle of Carberry. About 1661 the castle passed into the pos- session of the Gilmour family, with whom it still remains. iSTiddry House is the seat of A. "VVauchope, Esq. Portobello, Inveresk, Dalkeith (Park), Melville Cast. (Park), Liber- ton (View), Edinburgh. § 4. Blackford and Braid Hills. One of the finest drives, command- ing the most extensive and varied views, may be taken by starting from Princes-street, by the Lothian- road, to Morningside, and round the Braid Hills to Liberton, and back by ISTewington. It is a pleasant walk across Black- ford Hill, a rocky height 2 m. S. of Edinburgh, the view from which is so admiraijly described in " Mar- mion." Here the army of James IV. encamped before marching to Flodden. § 5. Dalmemj Park and Ch., Hojyetoun, and S. Queensferry (Ptte. 18). Dean Bridge, Cramond Bridge, Dalmeny Park and Ch., S. Queens- ferry, Hopetoun Park and Gardens (the house is not usually shown). § 6. Linlithgow Palace and Ch., by Glasgow railway trains in \ hr. § 7. To Bm-thicick and Crichton Castles, taking the railway to Fushie Bridge Stat. {Inn. ) Rte. 1. § 8. Paihvay to Colinton, Juniper Green, Currie, Pentland Hills. Quitting Edinburgh by Lothian- road, you pass rt. Mcrchiston Castle, ^. the birthplace of K'apier, the mathe- ' "= matician and inventor of logarithms. 1. the pretty suburb of Morn- ingside. The road then crosses the Braid Burn, and winds along the slope of the Braid Hills, a pictur- esque group about 700 ft. high, placed midway between Arthur's Seat and the Pentlands, comTuanding the view over Edinburgh made famous by the description in "Mannion." Passing rt. Comiston House (Sir J. Forrest), a road is given off to Dreg- horn (R. A. Macfie, Esq.), situated at the foot of the Pentlands, the charming little village of Colinton, on the Water of Leith, and Bonally, long residence of the late Lord Cock- burn. The fine range of the Pent- lands is now the most prominent object, the road nmning at the foot of the eastern slopes, and passing 5 4 ra. rt. Woodhouselee (J. Tytler, Esq.) Then comes the village of Howgate, a little beyond which is Bush (A. Trotter, Esq.), and Glen- corse (Lord Justice-General Inglis). Within the grounds of Coliuton House (Lady Dunfermline) are some very fine holly hedges. A bridge across the Water of Leith at Colin- ton leads to a pleasant road back to Edinburgh through the village of Slateford. § 9. Penicwilc, Halh'e's Howe. [It is a favourite excursion up the Glencorse Burn to the Glencorse Be- servoir. Then rt. Logan Bank (H. ]\I. Inglis, Esq.) to the Loganlee Reser- voir, which lies in the hollow between the heights of Black Hill (1628) and Carnethy (1890). Both these were constructed as compensation reser- 68 Route 5. — Carlisle to Edinburgh, etc. Sect. I. voirs for the supply of the mills and rivers that were injured by the springs being taken away for the use of the city. At the head of the glen, known as Rabble's Hoive, the stream falls picturesquely into a small pool, supposed to be in the Poet Ramsay's thoughts when he wrote " The Gen- tle Shepherd." But the scenic de- scription does not altogether answer to the character of this glen, and it seems probable that the true Habbie's Howe is to be found some miles higher up, beyond Penicuik. But, how- ever that may be, it is a delightful excursion, as showing the pastoral character of the Upland of central Scotland, which has of course no pretension to the grandeur of High- land scenery. ] 7 m. House of Miiir, noted as a cattle fair, and close by it is Ptullion Green, where the Covenanters were defeated by Dalziel in Nov. 1666. The site of the encampment is to the S. of the battlefield, which is now commemorated by a monument. From here a cross road leads to Penicuik 2 m. (Rte. 16), where Penicuik House (Sir G. D. Clerk, Bart.) and fine Park, and the Paper Mills on the Esk, deserve notice. ROUTE 5. Carlisle to Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Stirling, by Lockerbie [Loch.- maben], Beattock [Moffat], and Car stairs Junction. To Carstairs Junct., 73 m. in 2 hrs. ; to Glasgow, 104 m., 6 trains daily in 3 to 4 hrs. ; — to Edinburgh, 101 m., 6 trains in 2f hrs. The Caledonian Railway, one of the great trunk lines of Scotland, penetrates the central southern counties, and divides at Carstairs, in Lanarkshire, the main line continuing N. to join the Highland Ely. at Stanley, and the branches on either side running to Edinburgh and Glasgow. Quitting the Citadel Stat, at Car- lisle, the line skirts the walls of the old city, with the cathedral and castle (on the right), crosses the river Eden, and soon after passes under the North British Rly., arriving at 4 m. Rockliffe Stat. 65 m., near Floreston Stat, the line crosses the river Esk (which 5 m. higher up waters the grounds of Netlierby, Rte. 1), and then enters a tract of Border country which was called the Debatable ground. It extends to the river Sark, and is about 8 m. long by 4 broad, and was for many years held only by the worst set of Border robbers. In 1552 a 'boundary line was agreed upon by the sovereigns of the two king- doms ; but the habits of the people were little improved till the union of the crowns. On the left is Sol- way Firth, recipient of the Esk, Eden, Annan, and Nith. The tide comes in at certain seasons with ex- traordinary rapidity, forming what is known as the Bore, in which the waves are frequently 3 or 4 ft. high. Strangers to the coast should be careful of this danger, remembering the caution given by Herries of Bur- renswark to Darsie Latimer, that ' ' he who dreams on the bed of the Solway will wake up in the next world." The estuary has been bridged across, lower down, by the Solway Junct. Rly. On right is Solway Moss, memorable for the de- feat of the Scots in 1542. A body of 10,000 men had entered England ; but the leaders, quarrelling amongst themselves, were surprised by a small English force and routed, leaving 200 noblemen and gentlemen in the enemy's hands. James V. died of mortification in coiisequence. On the other side of the Sark, which is the boundary between England and Scotland, is 8| m. Gretna Junct. Stat, (in Rte. 9). Here a Rly. branches W. to Annan and Dumfries (Rte. 9). On S. Scotland. Route 5. — Kirkconnell ; Ecclefechan. G9 right, a branch to Longtown joins the North British (Ete. 1). 13 m. Kirkpatrick Stat On left is the village of Kirkpatrick Fleming, situated near the banks of Kirtle Water, together with Mossknowe (Col. Graham), the Cove (G. Ogilvy, Esq.), and Bonshaw, overhanging the river. Kirtle Bridge Stat. About 2 m. right, is the ruined ch. of Kirkcon- nell, the churchyard of which is the scene of the pathetic ballad of " Fair Helen of Kirkconnell Lee." The daughter of the Laird of Kirkconnell loved and was beloved by Adam Fleming of Kirkconnell, but was promised in marriage by her famil}- to Bell of Ecclefechan. The favoured swain was in the habit of meeting her in the churchyard, which so ex- cited the jealousy of the rival that he one evening took up his station, armed with a gun, for the purpose of watching them. Unable to contain himself with rage, he fired, when the fair Helen received the bullet in- tended for her lover. A fierce com- bat ensued, in which the murderer was cut to pieces : — " I wish I were where Helen lies ! Night and day on me she cries ; Oh tliat I were where Helen lies On fair Kirkconnell Lee ! " Fleming went abroad, but returned hither to die. The graves of the unfortunate couple are still to be seen here. The country through which the tourist is passing was formerly well wooded, but " it is said to have been cleared of the wood by Act of Parlia- ment in the time of James VL , in order to destroy the retreat of the moss- troopers, a pestthispartof the countrj' was infamous for — in fact the whole of the borders then was, as Lindesay expresses, no other thing but theft, reiff, and slaughter." — Pennant. A fine view is obtained on left of Annandale, as the train approaches 20 m. Ecclefechan Stat., near the banks of the IMein "Water, which near this spot falls into the Annan. It derives its name, Ecclesia Fechani, from St. Fechan, an Irish saint of the 7th centy. "The Lass of Eccle- fechan " was one of Burns's country songs. Carlyle, the biographer of Cromwell, was born here, Dec. 4, 1795, son of a small farmer. The small stone house, extending over a gateway, is pointed out. [The anti- quary may pay a visit to the hill of Burrsivark, 920 ft. high, nearly 3 m. to the N. It is strongly defended by 3 Eijmau camps, the largest of which looks S., and encloses an area of 900 ft. in length by 600 in breadth. The summit, which commands a fine view of Lochmaben, Queensberry Hill, Hartfell, the Solway Firth, Criff"el, Annan, Carlisle, and the Cumberland Lake Hills, was further strengtliened by several forts, which are probably British. Horsley con- siders Burrswark to be the work of Agricola, and that it may have served as a summer camp to Barrens, which is about 2 m. distant. At Middleby, not far off, is a complete Roman camp. A Roman road may be traced at the S.E. foot of the hill, and several altars and coins have been dug up in the vicinity.] 2^ m. S. W. of Ecclefechan is Hod- dam Castle (W. J. Sharpe, Esq.), a castellated house, built about 1650 by the Herries family. To the S. of it, on high ground, is llepentance Tower, so called because it was erected as a monument of repentance by Lord Herries for having used some materials from Tailtron Chapel to build Hod- dam Castle. In the " Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border" a different reason is assigned. It is said there, in the ballad of "Lord Herries his Complaint," that, returning by sea from England with a large booty and a number of prisoners. Lord Herries threw the latter overboard to lighten the vessel, and subse- quently built this tower as a proof of his remorse. Over the door are a 70 Route 5. — Lochmahen ; Jar dine Hall. Sect. I. serpent and a dove, with the word " Repentance " between.] Before crossing the Water of Milk the traveller obtains a beautiful though transient view as the train descends the Breconhill incline. The scenery of the Water of Milk, which rises in the fells at the head of Eskdale, is very pretty, and can be explored conveniently from 25f m. Lockerbie Junct. Stat. {Inn, King's Arms). Lockerbie is cele- brated for its sheep and cattle fairs, the one in Angust being the largest lamb fair in Scotland. There is a handsome Toicn Library of mediaeval architecture. Near Lockerbie are the ruins of the Castle of the John- stones, one of the most powerful families in this part of Scotland. A "Lockerbie lick" is still proverbial from the slaughter inflicted by them on the Maxwells. In the neighbourhood is Murray- field. Lockerbie to Dumfries, [From Lockerbie Junct. it is 15 m. to Dumfries, by a Branch rly. crossing the Annan to 4 m. Lochmaben Stat. {Inn : King's Arms), a royal burgh sur- rounded by a chain of 8 lakes. Near the "ch., on a mound, was '^ a Castle of the Bruces of Annan- ■7 "'V dale, in which Robert Bruce was born, if not at Turnbur3^ He pulled it down, and built a much larger one on a peninsula S.E. of the Castle Loch. It consisted of 3 courts, in- closed by massive walls 12 ft. thick, and by a triple fosse. The faces of the walls have been plundered of the stone, and nothing is now left but shapeless masses of rubble. Yet this was the Bruce's home and his head- quarters when he began the war of independence against the English, 1306. The property now belongs to the Earl of Mansfield. There are 4 villages in the neighbourhood, with some smaller hamlets, held by tlie "King's kindly tenants of Loch- maben," as they are called. It is a sort of udal tenure, which acknow- ledges no feudal superior, and is sup- posed to have originated in a grant of land by Robert Bruce to his ser- vants, when superannuated. This tenure was confirmed by the Courts of Session on an appeal in 1824. Lochmaben, when seen from a height, appears to be almost an island; it is surrounded by 8 lochs, the largest of which, Castle Loch, to the S., is of considerable size. "In it alone the far-famed Venclacc (Coregonus Willoughbii, Fa ?'rcZZ) is found. Tra- dition adds that it was introduced here by Queen Mary, but more probably it was brought hither by the monks of some neighbouring convent for the benefit of their table. It defies the angler, resisting all sorts of baits. It is caught only with nets. It is delicious eating, resem- bling the smelt ; it is best in .July. Its food consists of small water in- sects. A Fend ace Club meets here annually. The lochs abound with pike, perch, roach, bream, eels, and trout. Jardinc Hall, seat of the late venerable naturalist Sir William, now of his son Sir Alexander, Jardine, contains the finest collection of fossil footprints of reptiles from Corncockle Muir sandstones, 2 m, N. of the town. " The Footprint room," is so called because of some slabs bearing tracks of fossil animals, together with ripple- marks, the vestiges of the ancient seas. 3 m. to the S, of Lochmaben is Rammer scales, the seat of W, B. M 'Donald, Esq. The grounds are celebrated for their beautiful silver firs and larch, one of the latter, cut for the Caledonian Rly., measuring 106 ft. of solid timber. 8 m. Shielhill, a hamlet on the banks of the Water of Ae. 10 m. Amisfield Stat., to the right of which is Glenae, the seat of the Earl of Carnwath. S. Scotland. Route 5. — JFamphmy ; Beattock. 71 The line then runs down the valley of the Lochar, crossing it at 12 m, Locharbriggs, leaving the village of Timvald to the left. 14 m. Dumfries Terminus (Ete. 9.)] Soon after quitting Lockerbie the rly. to Glasgow crosses the Dryffe Water hy a lofty viaduct, reaching 28| m. Kcthercleugh Stat. Be- tween this and Dinwoodie Stat, on left is the Annan Water, and on its left bank Jardine Hall, the residence of Sir Alex. Jardine. On the right bank is Sped/ins Toicer, once the residence of the Jardines of Apple- garth, a massive quadrangular struc- ture, with circular turrets at the angles. Over the gateway is the date 1605, probably the year when it was last repaired. The geological features from Loch- maben up to this point are those of Permian sandstones. In the quarry of Corncockle, which is overlooked by Spedlin's Tower, the late Sir Wm. Jardine found tracks of an im- mense extinct tortoise, which has been named "Chelichnys Titan." Beyond Dimcoodie, 32 m., the An- nan approaches more closely to the line, and affords manv a good view of its windings. As tfie watershed is approached the hills draw in, and the Avhole character of the scenery is wilder. 345 m. Wamphray Stat. To the right of this, 1 m., is the village and ch. of JVam^phray, picturesquely situated in a deep dell by the side of Wamphrav AVater, which rises to the N.E. in Loch Fell, 2956 ft, the same that gives birth to the Ettrick Water. On the Wamphray are some small waterfalls, known as the Pot, the Washing-tub, and Dubb's Caldron. The village is the scene of the ballad '' The Lads of Wamphray." [To the left, 3 m., is Lochwood Tower, situated in a gi'ove of ancient oaks, long the principal abode of the Johnstones. It was surrounded by bogs and impassable ground, so that James VI. declared that '* whoever built Lochwood was a knave at heart." It was burnt by the Max- wells in 1592, an outrage which was fearfully avenged by the Johnstones at the battle of Lochmaben, and led to the almost total extermination of tlie Maxwells at that of Dryffesands. To the S., at the foot of Minnygap Hill, is Rae Hills (J. J. Hope- John- stone, Esq. of Annandale), built by the 3d Earl of Hopetoun in 1786. It is a modern castellated mansion, with pleasant wooded grounds on the banks of the Kinnel.] Crossing the Annan, and passing the village of Kirkpatrick Juxta, the line reaches 40 m. Beattock Stat., 2 m. from Moffat, to which there is an omni- bus (see Ete. 6). Here are refresh- ment-rooms, and Beattock Bridge Inn is 100 yards off". On left of stat. is Craglands ( — Colvin, Esq.), and on right is Lochhouse Tower, backed up by the fine ranges above iloff'at, part of which town is seen from the line. The rly. now enters the wild de- files of the Lowther Hills, and as- cends the narrow glen of the Evan, in a sonnet by Wordsworth called the Avon, which rises very near the source of the Clyde. On left is Auchencass Castle, a ruin of no great size, but of considerable strength, which originally belonged to Ean- dolph Earl of Moray, Eobert Bruce's favourite lieutenant, and afterwards regent to Bruce's son and successor, David II. The high road from Carlisle to Glasgow was one of Telford's grandest works of engineering, now rendered comparatively useless by the railway. From the hills around this pass 3 of the largest southern rivers, the Clyde, 72 Iloute 5. — Lamington ; Carstairs. Sect. I. Tweed, and Annan, all take their rise within a short distance of each other. The rly. ascends the Evan valley through much rock-cutting. Near the upper end it passes into Clydesdale at a height of ]000 ft. above the sea. At 52 I'm. Elvanfoot Stat, the Clyde is first crossed, being already swelled by the waters of the Powtrail, Daer, and Elvan, which all converge to this point. A little before arriving at the stat., on right, is a round camp, where 2 Eoinan roads, coming from the S.E. and S.W., formed a junc- tion. [On left 4 m. is the mining village of Leaclhills, where Allan Ramsay, author of " The Gentle Shepherd," was born 16S6. These mines, to- gether with the adjoining ones at Wanlock Head, have produced more lead than any in Scotland, and a con- siderable quantity of silver, from 1511 down to the present time. Gold is found in the streams of the district. ] 55 m. the line passes the village of Crawford, having immediately on right Lindsay Tower, an old ruined seat of the Lindsays, Earls of Craw- ford. The Camps and Midlock "Waters here join the Clyde. 58 m. AUngton Stat., Hunter's Inn affords the angler excellent quarters, at the junction of the Glengonner Water and the Clyde, and environed on all sides by hills. On left is the seat of Sir Edward Colebrook, Bart. Near this place are traces of gold workings, which were carried on with some success in the time of James VI. Abington is a favourite locality for coursing matches, and is a capital angling station. The water between Elvan- foot and Lamington is the best of the whole river. The water is very clear, and the angler requires fine tackle, small flies, and quick sight. If sheep-washing is going on he can still have good sport in the smaller burns. 63 m. Lamington Stat. L. House is a gabled mansion, the seat of Baillie Cochrane, Esq. In the hall is the chair of Wallace ! The heiress of Lamington married Sir Wm. Wal- lace, and this property was inherited by his daughter. Burns went to ch. here on one occasion, and was so little pleased that he left on the seat an epigram, called, ' ' The Kirk of Lamington :" — " As cauld a -wind as ever blew ; A caulder kirk, and in 't but few ; As cauld a minister's e'er spak ; Ye'll a' be het ere I come back." The ch. of L. retains the "jougs," or pillory, and the stool of repent- ance. On right, near the river, is the ruined tower of Lamington. 66^ m. Symington Junct. Ely. to Peebles and Galashiels (Ete. 5a) {Inn, Junction) is said to have taken its name from Simon Locard, who had a grant of the land from Mal- colm IV. On left rises the isolated and picturesque outline of Tinto Hill, 2200 ft. high, from the top of which, where is a large cairn, the tourist can on a clear day see both German and Irish Seas, and from Goatfell in An'an on the W., to the Bass Eock on the E. : — " Be a lassie ne'er so black, Gin she hae the penny siller. Set her up on Tinto's tap, The wind will blaw a man till her." to carry a stone to the top of Tinto was in old times a common form of penance. On the E. side of the hill, near the rly. , are the niins of Fatlips Castle. 68i m. TlmnTcerton Stat. The hill rising directly up from the opposite bank of the Clyde is Quothquan Law, 1097 ft. The Clyde is crossed for the last time just before reaching 73^ m. Carstaiks Junct. Stat., where the lines to Glasgow (see Ete. 8) and Stirling (Rte. 21) are given S.Scotland. Route ti. — Midcalder ; DalmaJioy Park 73 off. This place is supposed to be the ancient Corn-Caer, a Roman set- tlement, and capital of the Daranii, a native tribe. Roman remains, in- cluding a bath, have been found in the parish. Between the stat. and the Clyde is Carstairs House (R. Monteith, Esq.) The house is a fine modern one, of Tudor architecture, and contains some good paintings by Guido, Mo- rales, Raeburn, etc. Carstairs is 5 m. distant from Lanark and the Falls of the Clyde (Rte. 8 to 8 a). Travellers bound thither change carriages. Carstairs to Edinburgh — Rly, 75 m. Carmaath, i.e., "the ford by the Cairn," which is visible on the left. In CouthaUy Castle (to the N.), now a gl6omy ruin, James IV., James V., and James VI., were enter- tained by the Somervilles. Of the old ch. one aisle is still left. 79.1 m. Auchengray Stat. 3 m. to the left are the ironworks of Wihon- toiun, on the eastern border of the Lanarkshire coalfield. From this point the rly. skirts the northern slopes of the Pentland Hills, which occupy the whole area between this and Edinburgh, and aff'ord many charming views. In 1666 the Cove- nanters were defeated on the E. side of these hills by General Dalziel's cavalry at Rullion Green. Passing, right, the large compensation reser- voir of Cobbinshaw, for supplying the Union Canal with water, the railway reaches 86 m. ffarhurn Stat. On left, 2 m., is the village of West Calder (Stat.) From the viaduct over Lin- house Burn a beautiful view is ob- tained of the distant vale of Almond, with Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat in the distance. 91 m. Midcalder and Kirknewton [Scotland. '\ June. Stat. Calder House. (Lord Torphichen), part of which is very old, is beautifully situated on the bank of the Murieston Water, near its confluence with the Almond. It contains portraits of John Knox (?) and Mary Queen of Scots. In a room here the Holy Communion was first administered after the Protestant fashion by Knox. The aspect of this district has con- siderably changed since 1865, by the (Tsi^overy of certain shales which } i.ld a considerable supply of mine- ral oil. Pits and oil - works now dot the countr}'^ all round j\Iid- and West - Calder, contributing sadly to mar the scenery and pollute the rivers. Between Midcalder and (954 ^n.) Cnrrie Stat., the rly. has on riglit Meadowbank (A. A. M, Wellwood, Esq.) ; the picturesque precipices of Dalmahoy Crags; the Water of Leith; and on its banks Balerno ; Riccarton, N.W. of Currie, seat of Sir William Gibson-Craig, has one of the most extensive and beautiful Pinetums in Scotland. Lennox Totver (now called L\Tnphay), the old property of the family of Lennox ; and Curriehill (John Marshall, Lord C), a modern house occupying the site of the old castle of the Skenes of Currie. On left, Dalmahoy Park, the seat of the Earl of Morton. Amongst its curiosities are the keys of Lochleven Castle, which were thrown into the lake when Mary Queen of Scots escaped. Seven sets of these keys, in different Scottish houses, contend for authentication ! The park is like a forest of fine timber, and Dalmahoy Crags add a feature to the view. Separated only by the old Glasgow road, is Hatton, a quaint house with flanking towers, plastered, built by the Lauderdales about Charles II.'s time, with terraced garden. 98 m. Kingshiotve Junct. Stat. A loop line has been opened from this E 74 Route 5a. — Broughton; Stoho. Sect. I. through the Glen of Colin ton, Jnniper Green, and Balerno (see. Rte. 4.) The rly., together with the Union Canal, are carried over the Water of Leith at Slateford Stat, by a magnificent viaduct, the village lying beneath. 101 m. Edinhurgh Terminus, at W. end of Princes Street. (Rte. 4.) ROUTE 5a. Symington Junction to Peebles, t>y Biggar and Broughton. [From Symington Stat (Rte. 5) on the Carlisle and Glasgow Ely., a branch of 19 m runs E. to Broughton and Peebles. Four trains daily in ilix. 2 m. Coulter Stat. The village is 1 m. right, at the foot of Snaip Hill, 1187 ft., and there are a camp and traces of a Roman road between it and 34 m. Biggar Stat. Inns : Elphin- stone Arms ; Commercial. A country town of one wide street. The Church, built 1545, was a beautiful cruciform Gothic structure ; but all its internal beauty has been purposel}' destroyed. At the end of the town is a large mound, 300 ft. in circumference and 36 in height, supposed to have been used as a law court or moothill. Of Boghall Castle, seat of the Earl of Winton, there is only left one small tower. Edmonston Castle, a modern edifice, is from designs of Gillespie Graham. From Biggar the rly. keeps parallel with the stream called Biggar Water, to 8 m. Broughton Stat., at the foot of Broughton Heights, 1872 ft., 1 m. from which is the British fort of Langlaw Hill, consisting of 5 con- centric rings. Broughton is alto- gether a modern place, and has a trade in ham-curing. To the S. of the town is Rachan (J. Tweedie, Esq.) The valley of the Tweed is entered at the village of Drummelzier, in the churchyard of which Merlin's grave is jiointed out. On one side is the Tweed, and on the other is the Pausayl brook. An old prophecy is attributed to Thomas the Rhymer — " Wheu Tweed and Pausayl join at Merlin's grave, England and Scotland shall one monarch have." and it is said that on the da}^ of James YI.'s coronation the Tweed oveiflowed its banks, and its waters ran into the Pausayl. It must have been a marvellous inundation, as the churchyard is about 10 ft. above the level of either stream. The castle of Drummelzier, now in ruins, was formerly the fortress of the Tweedie family, a powerful and very quarrel- some faction in the 16th cent. About 7 m. S. of this is the source of the Tweed, near Tweedshaws- farm, 1780 ft. above the sea-level. About half way stands Crook Inn, an angler's resort, once a famous posting-house on the great high road, now grass grown. Near the village of Tweedsmuir, in the midst of a hog, is a standing stone, 5 ft. high. 124 m. Stoho Stat., to the left of which is Stobo Castle, the beautiful seat of Sir Graham Montgomery, built 1805, and Stobo Kirk (restored), with a square tower, an E. E. nave, and Norm, chancel. " The jougs,' or iron collar for the neck of ofienders, is attached to the porch. On the left is Dahvick or New Posso (Sir J. Nasmyth), noted for its fine timber and show of rhododendrons. The trees are of large growth, especially an avenue of Silver firs, and the larches, which are reported to have been first planted here in 1725, or 13 vears earlier than those set by the D. of Athole at Dunkeld. The ruins of Tinnis {i.e. Thane's) Castle Selkirk. Route 6. — Galashiels to Moffat. i D ,are also conspicuous on a lieiglit near Drummelxier. 16 m. Lyne Stat., to the N. of this, occupying a strong position on the left hank of the Lyne, is a Eo- man castrum stativum, originally a parallelogram of 850 ft. hy 750. The N". side has been destroyed by agri- cultural operations, although the en- trances at the remaining sides are still visible. At Sheriffrimir, be- tween the Ely. and the river, there are 2 erect stones, known as the standirtg stones. 4 m. to the N. of Lyne, overlooking the river, is Lrochil Castle, a fine old mansion, partaking of a mixture of the fortress and the manor-house. It consists of 2 square blocks of building, with a cleft between, formerly connected by an arch. At the extremity of the double square are 2 round towers, each with a semi-turret, uniting it with the square mass. It was com- menced by the regent Morton, but the building was abruptly checked by his execution in 1581, for his participation in the murder of Daiu- ley. On the S. bank of the Tweed, opposite Lyne, is the old ivy-covered tower of Barns, the residence in the 16th centy. of "William Burnett, who for his propensity for marauding ex- peditions at night was nicknamed " the Howlet." Between Lyne and Peebles on the 1. or north bank of the Tweed, may be seen Xeidpath Castle, the property of the Earl of "Wemyss (described in Ete. 19.) 19. m. Peebles Junct. Stat. (Ete. 19).] EOUTE 6. Galashiels to Moffat, by Selkirk (Rail), Vale of Yarrow, St. Mary's Locli, and Grey Mare's Tail. PmU to Selkirk, 61 min. trains daily in 20 min. Thence carriage road to the loch. Beyond it, footpath. This route is well worth exploring for its fine scenery. The vale of Yarrow, celebrated in local song and by "Wordsworth's two poems, abounds in interest. The Ely. leaves the main line of the Xorth British at the junction of the Gala "Water with the Tweed, and runs up the vale of the Tweed. 3 m. Abbotsford Ferry Stat, at Boldside. It is a mile walk after crossing the Ferry to Abbotsford (described in Ete. 1). A little higher up (at the Eink) the conjoined streams of the Ettrick and the Yar- row fall into the Tweed, which flows from the west from Peebles and Innerleithen. At the point of union the line crosses the river, and (pass- ing Lindcan Stat.) is carried up the right bank of the Ettrick to 6 m. SelTcirk Stat. (County Hotel), a dull town (4640 inhab.), perched on the top of a hill overlooking Etti'ick "Water. It used to be cele- brated for its shoemakmg ; hence the old verses " Up wi' the sutors of Selkirk, And doon wi' the Earl of Home." The sutors distinguished themselves much at the battle of Flodden : — " Selkirk, famed in days of yore For sutors, but for heroes more. And on red Flodden's dreadful day, When other pow'rful elans gave way. The burly sutors firmly stood, And dyed the field with Southron blood ; Though gall'd by darts, by horses trod on, They bore their standard off from Flodden, Which still on that returning day We bear aloft in proud aiTay. " Hogg's Rnssia.de. To this dsij admittance to the dignity of burgess of the town is obtained by the penalty of sucking a brush of bristles such as shoemakers use, dipped in wine, attached to the seal of the Corporation. This is called " licking the birse." The banner is still preserved by the Corporation. 76 Route Q.—Neivark Castle. Sect. I. The town was soon afterwards burnt I by the English, It has at present some woollen manufactures. There is but little to see. The town-hall has a lofty spire, in front of which is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, by Ritchie. Here is also one to Mungo Park, the African traveller, who was a native of Selkirkshire. Adjoining the town is the Haining (Mrs. Pringle- Douglas). Distances : — Galashiels, 6 m.; Ab- botsford, 4 ; St. Mary's Loch, 19^ ; Innerleithen, 11 ; Moffat, 34 ; Edin- burgh, 36 ; Hawick, 11 ; Melrose, 7. Selkirk is famed for bannocks. Between Selkirk and Moffat there is no continuous conveyance ; but during the summer a coach runs thrice a week from Selkirk to St. Mary's Loch, corresponding with another from Moffat, which meets it at the Loch. Time is allowed at the Loch for dining at Tibby Shiels's Inn and visiting all the localities. Crossing the Ettrick Water, below its junction with the Yarrow, we pass 3 m. right, Fhili^jJiaui/h (Sir J. N. Murray, Bart., a descendant of the "outlaw" Murray, in the reign of James IV.). The house is old Eng- lish, with flights of terraces in front. Here, Sept. 13, 1645, upon the haugh, or flat land, bounded by the Ettrick and the hills, Montrose, hav- ing encamped his army, in security as he thought, was surprised by Gen. Leslie, and his army totally routed. "The Covenanting Cuiras- siers, some of them old soldiers of Gusta-vais Adolphus, crossed the Et- trick at daybreak, and, charging the wild Highlanders on the flat, put them to confusion. Oij Slain Man's Lee is a green mound raised above the slaughtered Royalists." — Scott. All Montrose's successes were lost by this one disaster. (Cross the river here to visit Newark Castle.) The General's Bridge, built by General Mackay, leads to Bowhill, a house and property of the Duke of Buccleuch, at the junction of Ettrick and Yarrow. This is the most beau- tiful part of the drive. On the left flows the Yarrow ; its banks wooded to the water's edge, and the trees in some places forming an arch over the stream ; on the right are picturesque plantations. [4 m. left, on the opposite bank, is Newark Castle, where the Duchess of Buccleuch is represented as listening to the "Lay of the Last Minstrel," who " Pass'd where Newark's stately tower Looks out from Yarrow's birken bower." Newark was originally a royal castle, and held by the Scotts, who were hereditary rangers of Ettrick Forest. When the forest was broken up the castle was granted to the Scotts for ever. It is a massive square tower, surrounded by an Oitter wall, defended by round flanking turrets. The arms and supporters of James I., in whose reign it was built, are still preserved on the W. side of the tower : — " Rising from those lofty groves, Behold a ruin hoary ; The shatter'd front of Newark's tower, Renowu'd in Border story." Wordsworth. In its courtyard Gen. Leslie shot the prisoners of Montrose's army, taken at Philiphaugh. ] On right, at foot of Foulshiels Hill, 1450 ft., is Foulshiels, where Mungo Park, the African traveller, was born in 1771. 5 m. right, Broadmeadows, a fine modern house, on a beautiful spot (James ]\Iacbraire, Esq.) ; and on left is a road leading to Bowhill. 6 m. The scenery now changes ; the road emerges from the woods ; and though it still rmis alongside the Yarrow, the banks are bare, the hills rise naked and cheerless, and the contrast with the scenery already is rather melancholy. S. Scotland. Route 6. — Galashiels to Moffat. 11 To the right, on the banks of the Hangingshaw Burn, is Hanglngshaw, the property of Johnstone of Alva. A few fragments of wall alone are left of the old castle of the ' ' outlaw Murray." 9 ra. right is the ford, containing school-house, and The Yarrow river famous in rustic others from that Bangour, called " row," beginning, "Busk ye, busk ye, bride. " village of Yarrovj- church, manse, a few cottages, has always been ballads ; among of Hamilton of The Braes of Yar- my bonny bonny " The dowie dens o' Yarrow " was another favourite song ; and some upright stones on the hillside over- looking the village (one of which has a Latin inscription) are believed to commemorate the fight mentioned in it. A road from Yarrow crosses the hills to the valley of the Ettrick, and another at the village of Lad- hope, 10 m. 14 m. Gordon Arms Inn, whence a road is given off to Traquair and Innerleithen, 8. m. (Rte. 5). This is a good angling station for the middle waters of Ettrick and Yarrow. At Mount Benger, near it, the Ettrick Shepherd lived. 16 m. cross the Douglas Burn, leaving on right the Craig of Douglas. A little distance up the glen, and overhanging the stream, are the re- mains of Blackhouse Tower, which seems to have been a square build- ing, with a circular turret at one angle. It was the retreat and strong- hold of Sir James Douglas, the friend of Bruce. This was the scene of the exploit of Sir Wm. Douglas and Lady Margaret, as told in the "Douglas Tragedy." " Seven large stones, erected on the neighbouring heights of Blackhouse, are shoAvn as marking the spot where ' the 7 brethren were slain ; and the j Douglas Burn is averred to have I been the stream at which the lovers I stopped to drink, so minute is tradi- tion in ascertaining the seat of a tra- gical tale, which, considering the rude state of former times, had pro- bably foundation in some real event." James Hogg, the Ettrick Shep- herd, was employed on this farm, and here met Sir W. Scott for the fi^-st time. 18 m. are the ruins of Dryhope Tower, supposed to have been the birthjylace of Mary Scott, the Flower of Yarrow. It stands on the eastern end of " Lone St. Mary's silent lake ; Thou know'st it well — nor fen nor sedge Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge ; Abrupt and sheer the mountains sink, At once upon the level brink ; And just a trace of silver sand Marks where the water meets the land. Far in the mirror, bright and blue, Each hill's huge outline you may view ; Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare. Nor tree, nor bush, nor bi'ake is there, Save where of land yon slender line Bears 'thwart the lake the scatter'd pine. Yet even this nakedness has power, And aids the feelings of the hour ; Your horse's hoof-tread sounds too rude, 8o stUly is the solitude." — Marmion. Upon the opposite side of the lake is AUrive, where many of Hogg's poems were written, and where he died. By the side of the Megget Water, spoken of in the " Noctes Ambro- sianae," as "a very famous fishing ground," a road leads to Hcnderland, the niins of an old stronghold of one Peres Cockburn, a celebrated free- booter, who, like Adam Scott and others, was hanged by James V. in Ills own castle-yard. It was on this execution that the pathetic " Lament of the Border Widow" was written. See the Lady's Seat by the cascade of the Megget. 19^ m. the traveller arrives at the W. end of St. Mari/s Loch; the 78 Route 6.—St. Manjs Loch. Sect. 1. smaller Loch beyond being called the Loch of the Lowes. Between these two a road passes to Tibhy ShieWs Inn, on the S. side of the water, near which stands the Monument to Hogg. The house was brought into notice by Hogg and Wilson, who frequented it for the whisky and the fishing. Trout, perch, and jack abound in the lake. It is the cradle of the stream of the Yarrow, Here the passengers may dine on homely but substantial fare. The pedestrian may return to Selkirk by the vale of the Ettrick, Avhich is parallel to that of the Yarrow. Others may pursue the journey by the Moffat coach, which is arranged so as to meet the one from Selkirk. Leaving St. Mary's Loch [r. Rodona House), the coach ascends the road by the side of the Loch of the Lowes. 26 m. Birkhill Inn. This district, from its solitude, was much used as a hiding-place by the Covenanters, and many of the points are named from that fact. The hill opposite is still called the " Watch Hill ; " and not far off, a waterfall, with a cave overhanging it, goes by the name of Dobs Linn. It was said that Halbert Dobson and David Dun, two Cove- nanters, were worried by the Devil when hiding here, and that one attacked him with the Bible, whilst the other tumbled him over into the water. Near this the Yarrow takes its rise. From Birkhill there is a steeply rugged jjath of 2 m. leading up to Loch Skene, a wild and solitary lake, situated about 1200 ft. above the level of the sea, under the heights of Loch Craig Head, 2625. Robert Chambers first announced, 1845, that this remark- able tarn has been produced by the moraine of a glacier which once filled the deep recess in the moun- tains. From it issues the cataract of the Grey Mare's Tale, one of the highest cascades in Scotland, which slides and tumbles down a deep gash in the hillside more than 200 ft. This stream is the outlet of the Moffat Water from " the dark Loch Skene," — " Where deep, deep do-vvn, and far within. Toils with tlie rocks the roaring linn ; Then issuing forth one foaming wave. And wheeling round the Giant's Grave, White as the snowy charger's tail. Drives down tlie pass of Moffatdale." Marmion, Introd. to Canto ii. The road from Moffat is carried near to the foot of the Falls, a path leading up to them along the edge of the gully, a truly romantic scene. The Giant's Grave is a long tu- mulus, between the road and the foot of the cataract. The whole of Mof- fatdale lies upon the Lower Silurian System, and in some of the black shales the searcher will find abun- dant remains of graptolites. The road here crosses the boundary and enters Dumfriesshire. 30 m. rt. is SadcUeyoke Hill, so called from the -narrowness of its ridge, across which it is said a per- son may sit astride. On left is Bods- beck farmhouse, the scene of one of Hogg's tales. A pathway leads over the hill to the road up the vale of Ettrick, which stops short at the watershed or count}^ boundary. The mountain on right, round whose base the road winds, is HartfcU, 2651 ft., one of the loftiest mountains in Dumfriesshire, which can be seen to great advantage from this point. Hartfell, White Comb, and Broad Law, are the three great ranges of this district, in all of which the geologist will find glacier markings. The road passes through a beautiful piece of wood lying on its lower slope. In this stands the house of Craigieburn, which figures in one of Burns' sonnets : — " Sweet fa's the eve on Craigebum, And blythe awakes the morrow ; But a' the pride o' spring's return Can yield me nought but sorrow." S. Scotland. Route 6. — Galashiels to Moffat.. 34: m. Moffat {Inns: Annandale Arms ; Buccleuch Arms ; Star) is a small town, 2 m. from Beattock Stat, of the rly. from Edinburgh to Dumfries and Carlisle (see Ete. 5), close to the river Annan. In sum- mer it is quite a fashionable water- ing-place, large numbers of families taking up their residence in the numerous lodgings with which the town is provided. Many come for the purpose of drinking the waters. The well is situated about 1^ m. from the town, approached by a gentle rise the whole way ; and the exercise of walking up to the well and home again, at an early hour, is probably as beneficial as drinking the water. Its taste is that of stale eggs beaten up with lucifer matches, although it is not so disagreeable as the stronger kinds of water at Harrogate. In the town is a Baih-hoiise supplied with water from the same source, also Eeading-rooms, etc. There is an Einscopal GluqM. There is some fishing in the Annan, IMoflfat, and other streams ; the trout chiefly very small. The neighbourhood of Moffat abounds in pretty walks, viz., to a. Gallows Hill, rising close above the town, and crowned with fir woods, and intersected with paths showing pleasing views ; — to Hartfell Spa, 4 m. to the N., on the banks of the Auchencat Burn, a small stream that flows into the Annan Water. This excursion may be prolonged to the summit of Hartfell. h. The Belcl Craig is a pretty glen, in which a small linn is precipitated over a steep bare rock. This is to the left of the Carlisle road, between Beattock and Wamphray Stations. c. The DeviVs Beef Tub, a semi- circular green hollow surrounded by steep hills, is 5 m. to the IST. of Moffat, by the new Edinburgh road, one of Telford's great engineering works, which skirts it on the right, rising to a height of 1300 ft. above the sea-level. This semicircular hollow is the head of the valley of the Annan, and is so profound and ob- scure as to have formed, in old times, an excellent hiding-place for stolen cattle ; hence called the DeviVs (some- times the "Douglases") ^ce/ Tub. A rebel named Maclaren, in 1746, escaped from his guard, who were conveying him by the road to jail, by rolling head over heels into the Tub, which was at that time full of mist. This incident figures in the novel of " Redgauntlet," where, how- ever, a fictitious Laird of Summer- trees is introduced as tlie hero. Near here the Annan and the Tweed rise on opposite sides of the hill, the for- mer flowing S., and the Tweed N., by Broughton to Peebles. In its course through the parish of Tweeds- niuir the scenery is very romantic, many wild and lonely burns, such as Talla, Menzion, and others, helping to swell the infant stream. The Edinburgh road keeps parallel with it as far as Broughton (Rte. 5a), passing, about half way, the Crook Inn, a celebrated angling hostelry. A lower road from j\Ioffat leads all the way by the side of the Annan into the Beef Tub itself. d. The most interesting excursion, however, is to the Grey Mare's Tail, 10 m., and St. Mary's Loch, 15 m. (coach in summer), on the way to Selkirk, described in this Route 6. Distances — Selkirk, 34 m. ; to Grey Mare's Tail, 10 ; St. Mary's Loch, 15 ; Tibby Shiels's Inn, 15 ; Devil's' Beef Tub, 5 ; Birkhill, 11 ; Loch Skene, 13 ; Dumfries, 21 ; Edin- burgh, 61 m. ; Glasgow, 65 m. Beattock Stat, of rail. Carlisle to Glasgow, 2 m. (omnibus to meet the trains). Between that stat. and Moffat is Lochhouse Tower, a square peel belonging to the Johnstones of Corehead. 80 Route 7 . — Selkirk to Moffat. Sect. I. EOUTE 7. Selkirk to Moffat by the Ettrick Valley. This road ends abruptly on the frontier of Selkirkshire, at the foot of the hills forming the watershed. In order to pursue his journey the traveller must either cross the hills on foot to the road down Moffat- dale, at Bodsbeck, or he may drive by the road from the Ettrick to St. Mary's Loch, and join the Moffat road at Tibbie Shiels's Inn. The road keeps the right bank of the Ettrick Water, passing Haining, the seat of Mrs. Pringle-Douglas, and overlooking Philiphaugh and its battle-field (Ete. 6). The Ettrick and the Yarrow unite at a place called Carelhaugh, corrupted into Carterhaugh, the scene of Hogg's "Pilgrims of the Sea," and of the ballad " Tamlane," in the " Border Minstrelsy." Beyond is Bowhill, a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch (Rte. 6). 4 m. left, perched on the top of a steep bank, overlooking the river, is Oakicood Tower, supposed to have been the scene where the " Three lords were birling at the wine," in the "dowie dens of Yarrow." It was at one time inhabited by Michael Scott, the wizard. At the little village of Ettrick Bridge, before arriving at which the traveller passes Kirkhope Tower, the road crosses the river ; one, on the left, being given off to the valley of the Ale AVater and Hawick, and soon after, on right, another branches to the Yarrow. The country is now very wild, and the lovely hills and valleys afford plenty of scenery for fairy tales, such as " Kilmeny," and others. 12 m., Deloraine, a name familiar to all readers of the " Lay of the Last Minstrel, " It gave the title of earl to Henry Scott, third son of the Duke of Monmouth, but the peerage is now extinct. 15 m., at Tushielaw, where is an inn, a good centre for anglers. Other roads branch away to the Yarrow, and one on left to the Borthwick Water. TusMelaio Castle stands on a ledge of the hill that overlooks the meeting of the Eankleburn and Ettrick. It is a singular situation, and seems to have been chosen fof the extensive prospect of the valley which it commands both E. and W. It was the finest castle in this neigh' bourhood, and its last inhabitant was Adam Scott, who Avas known in his own country as the " King of the Border," and everywhere else as the " King of Thieves." James V., having executed Cockburn of Hen- derland, marched across by this road (still called the King's road) to Tushielaw, stormed and plundered the castle, hanged Scott on an elm ^i (still shown in the courtyard), and — -* carried his head to Edinburgh. The father of the " Flower of Yarrow" was Laird of Tushielaw. The Kankle- burn runs past a place called Buc- cleuch, an old property of the Scotts, whence they have taken their title. At 17 m. a road on left is given off to Tibby Shiels's Inn (Ete. 6), which must be followed if the traveller is driving. A little farther on are the ruins of Thii'lstane Castle, and the modern house of Lord Kapier. TJdrl- staiie Castle is memorable as the resi- dence of John Scott, who, when the Scottish nobility, in 1542, refused to support James V. in an iuA'asion of England, offered with his retinue to follow the king whithersoever he chose to go. James rewarded his loyalty by granting him as a crest a bunch of spears, with the motto, " Ready, aye ready." On the other side of the river is the old tower of Gamescleuch. At the farm of Ettrick Lanarkshire. Carlisle to Glasgoiv. 81 House, 20^ m., was born James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, and a headstone records his memory in the chm-chyard, although he was buried at Altrive, in the Vale of Yarrow, 1835. The whole of this district was at one time densely covered with tim- ber, but the only remains of Ettrick Forest is a quantity of stunted wood between Cracra Bank and the slopes at the mouth of Rankleburn. •' Ettrick Forest is a fair forest. In it grows many a seemly tree ; The hart, the hind, the doe, the roe, And of all wild beasts great plentie." The Bach river, which joins the Ettrick immediately below Lochy Law, has been haunted from time immemorial both by fairies and the ghost of a wandering minstrel who was cruelly murdered there, and who sleeps in a lone grave at a small distance from the ford. The road now begins to ascend more rapidly, and at last, on reaching the edge of the county of Selkirk, at the water- shed, ends abruptly, A track or footpath now conducts the pedestrian down the other side of the hill to the farm oi Bodsheck, the haunt of Hogg's "brownie," 28 m., where the Motfat Water is crossed, and joins the road from Yarrow to Moffat (Rte. 6). ROUTE 8. Carlisle'to Glasgow, by Carstairs Junction, Motherwell, Coat- bridge, Gartsberrie, and tbe Iron District. The Railway from Carlisle to Car- stairs Junct. is described in Route 5. On quitting Carstairs the river Mouse is crossed, which lower down enters the Clyde throngh the chasm called Cartland Crags. 3 m, Cleghorn Junct. Stat. Cleg- horn, seat of A. E. Lockhart, Esq., stands on the Mouse, and the park includes a Roman camp. [Bj'aiich Pudhcay to Lanark and Douglas. 2 m. Lanark Stat, (see Rte. 8a), where the Falls of Clyde, Cartland Crags, etc., are described ; also the road up to its beautiful valley, froin Hamilton, nothing of which is visi- ble from the rly. From Lanark the rly. crosses the Clyde, and runs due S. by Ponfeigh to Sandilands, and 6. m. Douglas Stat, a rather quaint and irregular little town (Pop. 2624), Avith a partially ruined Church of St. Bride, of the Pointed Transition style. In the choir, which is the only part in preservation, may be seen "the very extraordinary Monuments of the house of Douglas, one of the most heroic and powerful families in the annals of Scotland. That works of sculpture, equal to any of the 14th century in Westminster Abbey (for such they certainly were, though much mutilated by Cromwell's sol- dieiy), should be found in so remote an inland place, attests strikingly the boundless resources of those haughty lords, ' whose coronet, ' as Scott says, 'so often counterpoised the crown.' "The effigy of the best friend of Bruce is among the number, and re- presents him cross-legged, as having fallen in battle with the Saracen when on the way to Jemsalem with the heart of his king Sir Walter Scott examined by torchlight these silent witnesses of past great- ness. It was a strange and melan- choly scene, and its recollection prompted some passages in ' Castle Dangerous.' .... "The appearance of the village, too, is most truly transferred to the novel ; and I may say the same of Boute 8. — Carlisle to Glasgow. Sect. L the surrounding landscape. We de- scended into a sort of crypt, in which the Douglasses were buried until about a century ago, when there was room for no more ; the leaden coffins around the wall being piled on each other until the lower ones had been pressed flat as sheets of pasteboard, while the floor itself was entirely pared ^^•ith others of comparatively modern date, on which coronets and inscriptions might still be traced. Here the silver case that once held the noble heart of the good Lord James himself is still pointed out. It is in the form of a heart, which, in memory of his glorious mission and fate, occupies ever since the chief place in the blazon of his posterity : — " ' The bloody heart blazed in the van, Announcing Douglas' dreaded name.' " — Locklmrfs Life of Scott. A little to the ^ST. of the town is Douglas Castle (Earl of Home), a modern though uninhabited house, on the banks of the Douglas Water. It is a fragment of a design of which not one-third part was carried out. " Of the redoubted Castle itself there remains but a small detached frag- ment, covered with ixy, close to the present mansion ; but Scott hung over it long, or rather sat beside it, draw- ing outlines on the tuif, and arrang- ing in his fancy the sweep of the old precincts. "Before the subjacent and sur- rounding lake and morass, the posi- tion must indeed have been the perfect model of solitary strength." Sir Walter Scott describes it in his tale of "Castle Dangerous," and re- visited the spot while writing that novel, 1831.] 8 m. Braidioood Stat., here are limestone quarries. A little to the right is Lee House (Sir Simon Lock- hart, Bart.), a castellated mansion, renovated by Gillespie Graham, It contains interesting portraits, Claver- house and Cromwell, under whom served Sir William Lockhart, emi- nent as diplomatist and general, who was a match foe Cardinal Richelieu, and took Dunkirk from Spain and France, Here is kept the famous Lee Penny, upon which the story of the " Talisman " is founded, and which was brought from the East by Sir Simon Lockhart in the time of Eobert the Bruce. " The water in which it is dipped operates as a styjitic, as a febrifuge, and possesses several other properties as a medici- nal talisman. Of late its powers have been chiefly restricted to the cure of persons bitten by mad dogs ; and as the illness in such cases frequently arises from imagination, there can be no reason for doubting that water which has been poured on the Lee Penny furnishes a congenial cure." — Introduction to "Talis- man." In reality, the Lee Penny is a groat of the time (probably of Ed- ward III.) in which is set a corne- lian or sard stone, constituting the real Talisman. The use of it was authorised and confirmed by a synod of the Kirk of Scotland, while con- demning all other amulets. In the Park is the Pease Tree, a very aged oak, 2>\ m. left of Braidwood, up the vale of the Nethan, on the other side the Clyde, is Craignethan, the origi- nal of " Tillietudlem Castle," in "Old Mortality" (see Rte. 8a), Crossing the gorge called Jock's Gill we reach 10 m, Carlul-e Stat. 2 m. W., in a charming position, overlooking the Clyde valley, is Milton Lockhart, l^ot far off" is Mauldslie Castle (seat of James Hozier, Esq.) The tourist will soon perceive by the altered character of the scenery, which from this to Glasgow is any- thing but inviting, that he has reached the great manufacturing district of the Lanarkshire coalfield, and that the charming braes and woods of the Clyde have given place S. Scotland. Route 8a. — Coathidge ; Glasgow to Lanark. 83 to monotonous and dark outlines, the foregrounds of which are occu- pied by blazing furnaces and dingy- looking collieries. 13| m. OvERTOWX JuxcT, (i.e. Oretown). 1 m. on the left bank of the Clyde is the village of Dalserf. At Overtown is a junction with the Bathgate branch of the Monkland Eailway. 14| m. TFishaw Stat. A little to the right of the town are the Colt- ness Ironworks ; the town is partly undermined by coalpits. Wishaio House (late Lord Belhaven) in a park of great beauty. Coltness H. (H. Houldsworth, Esq.) ; l-^ m. S. is Cavihusncthaii House (J. S. Lock- hart, Esq). 17i m. Motherwell Junct., where the Clydesdale branch rly. is given off to Glasgow, through Cam- buslang and Rutherglen (Ete.SA), the main line keeping a more northerly direction. Motherwell is a town of modern rise and sudden prosperity — from the mineral wealth around it. It possesses several churches {Lin : Royal H). Omnibus to Hamilton, (2m.,5ccRte. 8a.) On left is the vil- lage of Dalzell(pron. Dee'el), andDa/- ziel House (J. G. E. Hamilton, Esq.), standing on a small tributary of the Clyde. The present house is a bar- onial pile, retaining the former man- sion and keep, 700 years old. The Gardens have been improved from suggestions of Mr. Ruskin. Passing the stations of Holytoicn and Whifflet, near which are the Calder Ironworks, the train reaches 23 m. Coatbridge Junct. Stat., a mining town, the centre of a group of blazing Iron Furnaces, surrounded by a network of rlys. The handsome Gothic Cliurch, with octagon spire, built by J. Baird, Esq., the iron- master, 1874. Near this are the Paraffin oil distilleries of Young and Co. Here the main line of the Monk- land system of rlys. to Bathgate and Bo'ness is given oif. The large ironworks of Dundyvan, Langloan, and others, are passed in succession nearly up to doors of Glasgow. It is a desolate, black district — of smoke, coal, and ashes, — treeless, sunless, the verdure of nature's surface scari- fied and loaded with rubbish heaps. Yet it deserves to be seen as a climax of human industry. 24 m. Gartsherrie Junct. The Caledonian Rly. sends oif a line N. to Greenliill Junction and Stirling, forming the link for travellers from the S. to Perth, Dundee, and Inver- ness (Rte. 18). At Gartsherrie are the celebrated ironworks and furnaces belonging to the Bairds, the iron-kings of Scot- land, where one of the finest brands of pig-iron is made. Thence past Gartcosh and GarnkirJc, and Stepps, to 31 m. Glasgow Terminus, Buch- anan-street Stat. (Rte. 16). ROUTE 8a. Glasgow to BothweU, Hamilton, and Lanark and Falls of the Clyde. There are 2 rlys. to Hamilton (a) by Blantyre (b) by Uddingstone, both starting from S. side of Clyde Stat, in Glasgow, and bifurcating at Cambuslang. It matters little by what course the traveller finds his way from Glasgow to Hamilton, but the beauties of the Upper Clyde cannot be seen from the railway, and the traveller is re- commended to take to the high road from Bothwell or Hamilton to Lanark. Through a region of coals an smoke, where tall chimneys supy>ly the place of trees, passing left, at the 84 Route 8a. — Blantyre ; Bothivell Castle. Sect. I. very outskirts of Glasgow, Dixon's Iron Furnaces, the rly. reaches 24 m. , Ruthcrglcn or Rugglen Stat. The top-heavy tower of the Town- hall is conspicuous. Rugglen was a town before Glasgow, hut has now fallen to be only one of its suburbs. May 29, 1679, a body of 86 armed covenanters rode into the town, and fixed on the cross a seditious "De- claration," which led to the skirmish of Drumclog, and the battle of Both- well Brig. Long Calderwood, Ig m. N., was the birthplace of Drs. John and William Hunter, physicians and anatomists. Eight, 3 m., near Pol- lockshaws, is Langsidey scene of the battle (see Index). Left are the Fur- naces of the Clyde Ironworks. Here the railway bifurcates. One line continues along high ground on left of Clj'de, but out of sight of it, to 8 m., Blantyre Stat., a workman's village, dependent on large cotton mills and die-works established here since the 18th centy. The illustrious traveller and missionary, David Livingstone, was born here 1815, and commenced life, as he tells us himself, " as a piecer in Mr. Mon- teith's works. " f m. down the Clyde a very small fragment hangs on the edge of the bank, of the Priory of Blant3Te, founded by Alexander II. From Blantyre Stat. Bothwell may be reached in about a mile, crossing the Clyde by the suspension bridge (see below). The rly. continues to 10 m. Hamilton Stat., about 1 m. from the town. Omnibus thither (see below). The Motherwell Ely., leaving Cambuslang a little beyond Neicton Stat. (Ironworks), crosses Clyde on a viaduct commanding fine view up and down the river, specially of Bothwell Castle, etc. Uddingston Stat., on the high road from Bothwell, 1 m., and from Hamilton, 4 m., is almost entirely composed of 2 lines of villas, which extend to Bothwell, more than a mile, and constitute that neat village, a sort of rural suburb of Glasgow, on a height above the Clyde. Inn : The Clyde Hotel ; open situation in a garden, near the Parish Church, a red stone edifice, with tall tower, chiefly mo- dern, but including part of an ancient church, deserving the architect's notice for its peculiar stone barrel- vault and roof without timber. It was built in 1398 by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, ** that stal- wart knight whom Froissart saw wielding a sword 2 ells long, scarce any one else could raise from the gi'ound, dealing such blows that wherever he reached he overthrew." In this ch. his daughter was married to David, Duke of Rothesa}^, heir- apparent to the throne, Avho was afterwards starved to death in Falk- land Palace. The manse of Bothwell was the birthplace of Joanna Baillie the poetess, 11th Sept. 1762. The road from Bothwell to Hamil- ton passes the gates of Bothwell Castle (Earl of Home). In the midst of beautiful woods and grounds stretching down to the Clyde, on whose lofty right bank rise the red jiicturesque ruins of the old Castle. >, Bothivell Castle (Earl of Home) ty looks statelily down upon the Clyde. ^ There is admission on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 11 to 4. The castle has a grand and imposing front of two round towers, connected by a lofty and massive curtain of red, sandstone. It is an admirable speci- men of the baronial fortress. It has the style and appearance of an Edwardian Castle, and was probably built by the English, but was taken from them 1337. Besides its front, which owes its preservation to the thickness of its walls, there is on the S. Scotland. PiOide 8a. — Bothioell Brig ; Hamilton. So S.E. side the chapel. Tlie castle belonged originally to the ]\Inrrays, and was inhabited by Sir William AYallace during the time of his governorship. Upon the subjugation of Scotland it was given by Edward I. to Aylmer de X^alence, Earl of Pembroke, and after the expulsion of the English was restored to the Murrays. From that family it passed by marriage to that of Douglas, was confiscated by James III. and re- stored by James I V. in exchange for the Castle of Hermitage, which he took from them. The modern house stands close by, and contains a gallery of pictures possessing much interest, because they include half the collection of the great Lord Chancellor Clarendon, formerly at Amesbury in AVilts, the other half of the collection being now at Lord Clarendon's seat, " the Grove,'' Herts. Of this part of it Walpole remarked, " Not one original, I think — at least not one fine one." Walpole Avas not quite right. The whole-lengths of Lord Lindsay, Lord Binning, Lady Paulett, and; ^Irs. Howard, are by Van DycTc, and fine works ; see also Nell Gwynne and others by Lely ; Cromwell and Sir Thomas More by Holbein ; Kaleigh by Van Somer ; by Reynolds, Mar- garet, Duchess of Douglas, etc. Passing the village of Bothwell, the traveller arrives at Bothivcll Bridge (2 m. from Hamilton), cele- brated for the battle, June 22, 1679, described in " Old Mortality," Ije- tween the royal troops, commanded by ]\Ionmcuth and Claverhouse, who approached from the N",, and the Covenanters strongly posted on the S. bank, but commanded by nobody at all, for they were squabbling about the election of their officers when attacked. Their position was well chosen, the only access to it being by the bridge, which was held by a small force under Hackston of Eathillet, until his ammunition was exhausted. When this force was withdrawn the Duke's army crossed the bridge, and his artillery sufficed to put the insurgents to rout. The bridge is much altered since that day ; it then had a steep rise in its centre, where it was crossed by a gate, and was only 12 ft. wide, and its approaches on each side were much steeper than at present. [From the bridge over the Clyde the high road skirts on the left the Duke of Hamilton's park wall, and in about a mile reaches Hamilton {Inns : " Commercial, " Spalding's, good ; obliging landlord). Horses and carriages kept here, so that it forms a good centre for ex- ploring this interesting neighbour- hood. Hamilton is a cheerful and pros- perous town, on a sIojjc (the old and dirtier quarter below) about 2 m. from the Clyde, which near this is joined by its pretty tributaiy the Avon. Hamilton, though tolerably free from smoke, is surrounded, at a distance of 3 or 4 m., by collieries and iron furnaces, which light up the horizon at night. The stately Palace of the Duke of Hamilton stands in the bottom of the valley, close to the old town, — so close that about 1826 a whole street was purchased and thrown into the park. The fronts of the houses only remain, and, with their doors and ■svindows walled up, still serve as a boundary wall. At the same time the Old Tolhooth, a picturesque build- ing with tower, was cut off from the town, and now stands within the grounds of the Palace. Queen Mary, on escaping from Loch Leven Castle, made Hamilton Palace her rallying-point, here collecting around her all her adherents and par- tizans, 1568. The Palace, besides its historic interest, in the splendour of its decorations, and in the number and value of the precious objects which it contains of art and virtu, is not 86 Route 8a. — Hamilton Palace. Sect. I. surpassed by any mansion in tlie kingdom. There is no admission to the interior except by special intro- duction. The growids are open to the public Tuesdays and Fridays. They abound in noble trees, and are traversed by a stately avenue stretching from the Palace up to Chatelherault, and con- tinued on the other side. Within them stands the remarkable family mausoleum. The old Palace was rebuilt in 1695-6, but the building was augmented by nearly one-half, and a new front added, by Duke Alexander in 1828-9. It is a stately and imposing piece of architecture, with an extent of 264 ft. and a por- tico of monolith Corinthian columns, copied from those of the Temple of Vespasian at Pome. Each of these is 30 ft. high, 3 ft. in diameter, and cut out of a single stone. The inte- rior evinces that its owners have com- bined with a love of splendour a true knowledge and appreciation of art. The grand staircase is entirely of black marble. The entrance-hall extends through 3 storeys. The State apartments are fitted up in the gorgeous style of Louis XIV., and contain his bed and furniture. The walls are covered with Gobe- lins, representing the story of Jeru- salem Delivered, from Tasso. The rich roof and gold panels remind one of Versailles. The rooms are ornamented with caskets inlaid with precious stones, cabinets, and other rare ob- jects, gifts of Catherine of Russia to the 10th Duke of Hamilton when ambassador at her Court, including her portrait in tapestry, and another of her on horseback en cavalier. Here are various objects which be- longed to IMarie Antoinette and Mary Queen of Scots, her jewel-case and writing cabinet of ebony, the cradle of Queen Elizabeth, etc. The collection of family portraits in the splendid long gallery, and other parts of the house, is of great historic interest. They include James, Marquis of Hamilton, by Van Somcr. William, Earl of Lanark, killed at Worcester, Mytens. Elizabeth Gunning, Duchess of Hamilton, Mr. Beckford, and Alex- ander, 10th Duke of Hamilton, as a boy, all by ^'/?' Joshua Reynolds. Mrs. Beckford, in old age, full of vigour, is one of the best portraits of Ben. West, P.R.A. The most celebrated picture here is that of Daniel in the Lions' Den, one of the very few known to have been executed entirely by Rubens himself. The following are among the choicest works singled out by Waagen : — Girolamo de Libri, a rare Veronese master. — Large altar-piece. Virgin and Child, with Saints. Luca Signorelli. — The Circumcision of Christ. — An altar-piece of 10 figures, life-size, one of the most important works of the master. Pontormo. — Portrait of Gaston de Medici. Antonello da il/(;ssi7«a.— Portrait of a young man named, and dated 1474. Domcnichino. — John the Baptist re- proving Herod. Sebastian del Piombo. — The Trans- figuration. Pope Clement VII. Sandro Botticelli. — Adoration of the Kings. A large picture, with small figures executed like miniatures. Sandro Botticelli. — The Coronation of the Virgin ; below, in 3 semi- circles, all the personages of the Holy Church, — Apostles, Saints, Patriarchs, Prophets, The Fathers, Martyrs, and Holy Virgins, etc., from S. Pietro Maggiore, Florence, described by Vasari. Giorgione. — Hippomanes and Ata- lanta. Van Dyclc. — Wm. Fielding, Earl of Denbigh ; Duchess of Eichmond ; Princess Henrietta of Lorraine. Murillo. — John the Baptist as a child asleep. S. Scotland. Route 8a. — Glasgoiv to Lanark ; Hamilton. Velasquez. — Philip IV., whole length. David. — Full length portrait of •Napoleon. Tintoret. — IMoses striking the Rock ; Portraits. — Visit of Queen of Slieba te Solomon. Nich. Poussin. — The Entombment. Hohhema. — Trees and Houses, in front a sheet of water. Teniers. — -A Stable ; a Landscape. Teniers' Coimtry House. W. Van der Velde. — A Calm Sea. • Among the treasures of the Lib- rary, one of the choicest in Bri- tain, abounding in rare MSS. and missals, are : — A Greek Gospel of 12th centy. ; an illuminated Greek MS. of 14th centy. ; a Psalter MS. from Hildesheim, 13th centy. ; the Vulgate, with miniatures, very fine ; Dante, folio, 15th centy., with an illustration on every page ; an An- tiphonary, executed for Pope Leo X. The Beckford Library occupies a room to itself, and contains some exquisite missals with miniatures. Here are preserved the gun with which Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh shot the Eegent Murray (it was originally a matchlock) ; and the writing-desk of Jtlary Queen of Scots. Near to the palace is the Mavso- leum, a square building, surmounted by a round tower and a stone cupola (D. Bryce, archt), reminding one of the tomb of Cecilia Metella near Rome. The interior is an octagonal chapel, underneath which are tlie vaults. The terrace front is adorned by colossal lions, by Ritchie. On the basement are representations of Life, Death, and Eternity. It was erected by Alexander, the 10th Duke, whose remains lie within the sarcophagus of an Egyptian queen. The building within has a truly sepulchral character, and the echo produced by the arrangements of the interior is remarkable, since the wind as it passes over it seems to moan a perpetual requiem for him who sleeps below. The bronze gates are copied from those of the Baptistry at_Florence. Environs. — a. \ m. S.E. of Hamil- ton the picturesque river Avon is crossed by a bridge, and a little higher up by a rly. viaduct, close to which is the house of Barncluith (Lady Ruthven), noted for its old-fashioned Dutch gardens, in terraces adorned with quaintly cut yews, clipped hedges, etc., laid out 1583. b. About 1^ m. higher up the Avon valley is the ruined Casfle of Cadzotu on its left bank ; and on the right, connected by a bridge, is the Toy Castle of ChatelhcrauU, copied, 1732, from the "chateau in France, from which the Duke takes his French title. It stands in a com- manding position, conspicuous with its four towers, on the open hill-side, and is connected by a double avenue of trees, Avith Hamilton Palace below, and has a splendid vicAv over Clydes- dale. One wing is fitted up as a summer pavilion for picnic parties in the Louis XIV. style ; the rest is occupied by gamekeepers and dog- kennels. The terraced garden behind, with its formal yew hedges, looks down into the winding and wooded Avondale. A bridge over the river leads from it to Cadzovj Castle, the cradle of the Hamilton family, built on a crag above the Avon, now a shapeless ruin overgrown with trees and briars, among Avhich may be traced dark vaults and foundations of towers. Upon the same side of the river as Cadzow, and reached b}^ the grass- drive, is all that remains of the great CaledonioM Forest, which once ex- tended from sea to sea through the whole of the south of Scotland. A few of the old stag-headed oaks are left, more than one of which mea- sures upwards of 24 ft. in circimi- 88 Route 8 A. — U^pper Clyde ; Craignetlian. Sect. I. ference. Here, too, is a lierd of the wild cattle, identical with the breed still preserved at Chillingham, in Northumberland. They are per- fectly white, except that the muzzle and tips of the ears are brown ; they are very handsome. Sir Walter Scott alludes to them in his ballad of '* Cadzow Castle : " — " Through the huge oaks of Avondale, Whose limbs a thousand years have worn, What sullen roar comes down the gale, And drowns the hunter's pealing horn ? " Mightiest of all the beasts of chase That roam in woody Caledon, Crushing the forest in his race. The mountain bull comes thundering An order from the Duke's factor, which Mr. Spalding, landlord of the Commercial, will obtain, is required to admit to Chatelherault. c. Bothwell Castle is 1\ m. from Hamilton ; the road passes over Bothwell Brig (1 m.) (see above). d. Country Seats near Hamilton — Dalziel House (J. Hamilton, Esq.), enlarged, with gardens laid out from Mr. Ruskin's designs. Caldertvood Castle (Sir Wm. ]\Iax- well), beautiful walks in the grounds. To the Falls of the Clyde at Lanark is a drive of 14^: m., very pleasant. Craignethan may be visited on the way (see below). Hamilton was the birthplace of the eminent physician Dr. Cullen.] Hamilton to Lanark and the Falls of the Clyde. \i\ m. Coach or omnibus daily. The middle Clyde valley between these two towns possesses consider- able beauty, spite of the inroads of coal-mines and ironworks. The railways on either side (Rte. 8) run quite out of sight of this scenery, and the high road must be resorted to by those who wish to enjoy the scenery of Clydesdale. It is ' a pleasant drive of Ig hr. in a wag- gonette. Craignethan Castle may be visited by a detour of 1 m. Stonebyres Fall is at the roadside, and the valley of the Mouse and Cart- land Crags will absorb an hour. On quitting Hamilton the river Avon is crossed a little below the quaint terraced gardens of Barn- cluith. Higher up the Avon are the ruins of Cadzow Castle, described above. Numerous coalpits rise on either side of the road, and in the distance the smoke-clouds by day, and the palpitating glare at night, proclaim the activity of various iron -furnaces. The road approaches the Clyde near to Cambusnethan House (J. S. Lockhart, Esq.), a modern Gothic edifice on the right bank of the river. Above this the Clyde assumes a character of great beauty, richly wooded, abounding in orchards, to be seen in the splendour of full bloom in the month of June. At Garrion Bridge the road from Edin- burgh to Ayr crosses the Clyde, which is traversed by several private bridges leading to gentlemen's seats on the right bank, as to Maiddslie Castle (Jas. Hozier, Esq.), a stately mansion designed by Adam (down to 1817 the estate belonged to the Earls of Hynd- ford) ; and Milton Lockhart (Rev. Laurence Lockhart, D.D.), a modern Gothic house designed by Burn, on one of the most picturesque spots in Clydesdale, on a ridge between Jock's Gill, and the Clyde. At the hamlet of Nethan-foot the Nethan is crossed. 1 m. up this glen to the right stands Craignethan Castle, the well-known type of Tillie- tudlem in Scott's " Old Mortality." He visited the spot in 1799, and ex- pressed such rapture with the scenery that Jjord Douglas offered him the farm-house for life. The castle was Lanark. Hamilton to Lanark and the Falls of Clyde. 89 a fortified manor-house of the great Evandale branch of the Hamilton family, but is now reduced to two towers, portions of the walls, and of a stone vaulted hall, but its situation, embowered in foliage, overlooking the Nethan and defended by a ditch, is highly picturesque. The enthusiast may discover the Avindow out of which the hot broth was soused over Cuddy Headrigg by Jenny. 3 m. higher up the Nethan is crossed by a magnificent viaduct of the Lesmahagow Rly. On the right bank of the Clyde (14 m.) is Hallbar Tower, a square peel 52 ft. high, and the house of Carfin. About 3 ra. from Lanark, a gate at the roadside leads through a wood to Stonehjres Fall. The witch of the Fall is on the spot to guide you, but is scarce needed. The best view of the entire Fall, which is 48 ft. high, is obtained by descending the stream h. about 100 yds. Higher up are some rough natural steps in the bank, called " Jacob's Ladder," from which a nearer view is obtained, but only of part of the Falls, as the river-bed makes a bend, and is much shrouded by foliage. Stonebyres House (Sir Wm. Scott of Ancrum) is in part as old as the 15th cent. Kirkfieldbank and Clyde ville, vil- occupied by weavers, are passed close to the old Bridge of 3 arches, and a steep ascent leads up to Lanark ; but a little below the bridge the Mouse water enters the Clyde (right bank) out of a remark- able defile, called, on account of its precipitous sides, Cartland Crags. They are from 200 to 400 ft. high ; the chasm is about f m. long. Near its upper end it is crossed by one of Telford's elegant Bridges of 3 arches, on piers 120 ft. above the water. A low bridge crosses near [Scotlarid. ] its mouth close to a very old nar- row Bridge said to be Roman, and by this the pedestrian may gain access to the glen. Castle Quha, a fragment of w\all connected with caves in the cliff, is said to have been Wallace's stronghold when he made his first raid upon the Eng- lish. A loop-road, crossing the Clyde lower down, and over Talford Bridge, from which you look down into Mouse glen, leads into Lanark. Lanark {Inns : Clydesdale, Com- mercial, Black Bull — none very good), an uninteresting town (5100 in- hab.), on a cold upland nearly 700 ft. above the sea-level. Little evi- dence now exists of the antiquity of which it boasts. In a central market-place, from which five streets diverge, stands an ungainl}'" Parish Church (date 1777), indented in its front with a niche to contain a huge statue of the patriot "Wm. Wallace, who commenced his exploits of arms here, 1297, by overpowering the English garrison and slaying their leader, Wm. Haselrigg, in revenge, it is alleged, for the murder of Wal- lace's wife. The whole story of Wallace verges on the mythical, and the chief authority for it is the verses of Blind Harry the minstrel, who lived 200 years after the events of which he is the principal if not the only recorder. N ot far from the rly. station is a Gothic Rom. Cath. Church. Beyond it, in the Parish Burial-Ground, several pointed arches are preserved of the old Parish Ch. of St. Kentigem. The Falls of the Clyde (Bonnington and Corra Linns) may be seen by tickets, given to strangers by the factor of Sir Charles Ross, Bart. It takes 2 or 3 hrs. to see them. The road down to the Clyde is carried in zigzags through the settlement of New Lanark, founded in 1784 by David Dale, and his son-in-law, the visionary socialist, Robert Owen, now the property of a Manchester e2 90 Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgow. Sect. I. firm. It is a street of mills and tall houses on the riorht bank of the Clyde (pop. 1200). m. farther the Lodge of Bonnington House (2 m. from Lanark), where tickets are given up, and a guide must be taken. Carriages wait here. (N.B. — There is a more direct footway hither, leaving New Lanark on right.) It is a very pleasant walk from the Lodge to the Falls of 1^ m. through the well-wooded grounds of Sir C. Ross, Bart. , along the right bank of the Clyde, here bordered by cliff and rock alternating with fine hanging woods. About h m. from the lodge a view is obtained of Cora Linn, the finest of the Falls, descending 86 ft., and visible in its full extent from the jjath. It exceeds any fall in Britain in the body of water. The mansion of Corehouse (once seat of the Scotch Judge Cranstoun, Lord Corehouse, now of Cun- ningham, Esq.) stands on the left bank a little below the Falls, while above it the old tower of Core- house overhangs the verge of the cliff. Listen to Wordsworth — " Lord of the vale, astounding flood, The dullest leaf in this thick wood Quakes, conscious of thy power ; The caves reply with hollow moan, And vibrates to its central stone Ton time-cemented tower." About I m. farther on, we come to Bonnington Linn, the uppermost of the three Falls. The banks of the Clyde have here risen into high cliffs, and a bend in the channel causes it to sweep round a sharp turn dividing into two branches. Between them is left a rocky island, to which a light iron bridge gives access, and takes you into the midst of the Fall The height is not much more than 30 ft. but the .suri'ounding rocks add picturesque effect. The Fcdl of Stonehyres is about 3 m. below Lanark, close to the road to Hamilton (see above). The ra- vine of the Mouse river by the Cart- land Crags, also below Lanark, de- serves a visit, and requires some one to show the way (see above). From Lanark the geologist may visit Lesmahagotv (5 m.), where, in the black slabs of the Silurian rock, many remarkable fossils (crustacese) have been discovered — Pteregotus, Sylonurus, etc. The village of Les- mahagow (from Machute or Mahego, a Culdee saint), also called Abbey Green (pop. 1800), stands on the Nethan Water [Inn : Commercial). EOUTE 9. Carlisle to Glasgow, by Annan, Dumfries, Sanquhar, Kilmar- nock, and Dairy Junction. 125;m., 3 trains daily in 5g hrs., by the Glasgow and South-Western Kailway, which, with its branches to Ayr, Girvan, Dalmellington, Bridge of Weir, and Muirkirk, is upwards of 200 miles in length. The Eden is crossed a little below Carlisle. The flat land passed by the rly. was once part of Solway Moss. The Sark river, the boundary be- tween England and Scotland, is crossed to Gretna Junction, where our line turns off to the left from the Caledonian Rly. to Lockerbie, Moffat, and Carstairs Junct. (Rte. 5). Gretna Green, or Springfield, was in former times the haven of runaway couples from England, who spurred with the utmost' speed attainable by four horses to reach the happy spot where the self-styled priest was in waiting to forge the bonds of matri- mony. These marriages occasioned by the difference in the law of Eng- land and Scotland were first cele- brated, 1760, by a man named Paisley, a tobacconist, who died at a great age in 1814. They have been suppressed by Act of Parlia- S. Scotland. Pioute 9. — Ruthwell. 91 ment since 1856. Branch Ely. to Longtown and the Waverley Rte. 1. 12 m. the rly. crosses the Kirtle "Water, a tributary of the Esk, with the estuary of wliich it runs parallel through a somewhat dreary country to 14 m. Dornock Stat, and 18 m. Annan Junct. Stat. {Inn : Queensberry Arms), a neat little town (3170 inhab.), Avith some industries of cotton-spinning and haudloom weaving. In 1334, after the death of King Eobert, Edward Balliol, having been crowned at Scone, summoned the barons hither to swear fealty to him. He was surprised by Archibald Douglas and 1000 cavalry, and barely escaped to Carlisle on horseback, without saddle, bridle, or a single attendant. Annan was the birthplace of the Rev. Edward Irving in 1792, and the scene of his deposition from the Scotch Church by the presbytery of Annan in 1833, on account of the heretical opinions that he held. Hugh Clapperton, the African tra- veller, was also a native of Annan. The river Annan, on the left bank of which the town is situated, falls into the Solway Firth about 2 m. below. A Eaihvay is carried from Annan S., across the Solway, b}^ Brayton to Maryport and Carlisle. It does not yet join the Carlisle line, and the Stat, is I m. from Annan. The Annan is crossed, and the scenery improves as the rly. reaches 21 m. Cummertrees Stat., the pretty village situated on the small stream of the Pow "Water. About 1 m. right is Kinmont House, the fine seat of the Marquis of Queensberry, and 34 m. to the K. is Hodclam Castle ("W. J. Sharpe, Esq.), and the Tower of Repentance. (Rte. 5.) 25 m. Ruthwell Stat., 2 m. S. in the Manse garden of Rutli- w^ell is a remarkable sculptured stone Cross, inscribed with lines said to be from a poem in Anglo-Saxon characters, of the probable date of the 7th or 8th century. It is con- sidered the most important Runic monument in Britain. 2 sides are occupied with Runic, the others have a Latin inscription. According to Professor Stephens, the subjects of the sculpture are a hind with a branch, St. John the Baptist with the Agnus Dei, our Lord with right hand uplifted in act of benediction, the sacred scroll in his left, and treading on two swine, referring to the miracle of the possessed swine, and emblematical of his triumph over unclean things. The legend running round the subject is as follows : — IHS XPS lYDEX AEQVITATIS BESTIAE ET DRACONES COGNOVERUNT IN DESERTO SALVATO- REM MUXDI. In addition to these there are figures of St. Paul and St. Anthony break- ing bread in the Desert ; the An- nunciation ; the Visitation ; Mary Magdalen washing our Lord's feet ; the healing of the man born blind ; and a Crucifixion, this last all but entirely defaced, eviilently when the cross was thrown down. Pennant relates that this stone was broken by an order of the General Assembly in 1644, under the pretence of its being an object of superstition with the vulgar, but the fragments were put together again, 1802, by Dr. Duncan. In the churchyard is the tomb of Mr. Young, a minister in James YI.'s time, who died, leaving 31 children, all by one wife. Rather more than a mile to the "W. is the tower of Comlongon Castle, on the edge of an extensive wood. It was once the residence of the Murrays, Earls of Mansfield, and for some time of the Wardens of the "Western Marches. The line now trends inland through a moorland district, skirting Lochar 92 Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgoiv ; Dtimfries. Sect. I. Moss, wliich is 10 m. in length, and passing the little Puicl's stat., 29| m. (5 m. S. is Caerlaverock Castle),reaehes 33 m. Dumfries Junct. Stat. {Inns : Queensberry ; King's Arms ; Commercial ; post-horses and wag- gonettes. The want of a good clean Inn is much felt here. Eefreshment- room at station). Dumfries, a Royal and Pari, burgh, the metropolis of the S.W. border counties, addressed by Burns as — " Maggie, by the banks o' Nith, A dame wi' pride eiieuch. " Pop. 15,435. It is well situated on rising ground on the left bank of the Nith, about 9 m. from its mouth. The old castle, of which not a vestige remains, was built by Edward L, and stood on the spot now occupied by the new Grcyfriars Church, a handsome red building with a tall spire, standing at the upper end of the main street, or Market-place, in the middle of which rises the pictur- esque tower of the Toicnhall or Mid- steejjh. S. and W. of the fortress stood the monastery of the Greyfriars, in the old ch. of which Robert Bruce, flying from the Court of Edwd. I., encountered the Red Comyn, and finding him loyal to the English, got to high words, drew his dagger, and stabbed him before the altar. Rush- ing from the scene of blood and sacrilege ; and meeting his partisan, Roger Kirkpatrick, he said, ' ' I doubt I have slain Comyn. " " You doubt ? " said Kirkpatrick, "I'll mak sikar" (make sure), and went in and finished him. " Kirkpatrick's bloody dirk Making sure of murder's work."— .S'coW. The next act of the murderers was to expel the English judges, then sitting in the town. Edward I. swore by "the Vow of the Swan" to avenge on Scotland the murder of Comyn, and proceeded to reconquer the country, though aged 67, being carried in a litter. A neat Doric pillar is erected in Queensberry-square to the third Duke of Queensberry. On Prince Charles's return from Derby, in 1745, he oc- cupied Dumfries, and his council- chamber is still shown in the Com- mercial Inn. He levied a tax on the inhabitants of £2000 in money, and 1000 pair of shoes, but a false alarm of the Duke of Cumberland's approach started him off at short notice, having received only £1100 of the levy. The old bridge, connecting the town with the suburb of ]\Iaxwell- town, on the right bank of the Nith, was built by Devorgilla,, wife of John Balliol, and founder of the Greyfriars monastery, in the reign of Alexander III. At that time it had 13 arches, 6 only of which are now standing. In 1795 the new bridge was built, and the traffic over the old one is that of foot passengers only. Bitrns's House is in Burns-st., a narrow lane on left as you go to St. Michael's Ch. In this he lived for 3 years, and in this he died on July 21, 1796. It was afterwards rented by his widow, who survived him for 38 years. It is now occupied by the master of the Industrial School, who is kind enough to allow any stranger to see it, and keeps the rooms as much as possible in the same state as they were when inhabited by the poet. In December 1791, when Robert Burns gave up his farm at Ellisland, and became an exciseman, lie lived for 18 months in a house at the bottom of Bank-street. Burns was first buried in the N. corner of St. Michael's burying- ground, but as there was no room there for the erection of the monu- ment which was afterwards deter- mined on, the body was removed to the E. corner on 19th September, 1815. The Mausoleum is a mean Grecian temple, which contains a Dumfries. Pwute 9. — Dumfries ; Lincluden Ahbei/. 93 poor sculpture by Turnarelli, repre- senting the genius of Coila finding her favourite son at the plough, and casting her inspiring mantle over him ! ! The open temple was utterly unsuited to the climate, and so the intervals between tlie pillars have been filled with glass. The church- 3'ard of St. Michael's is remarkable for the number of monuments and tombstones, altogether amounting to more than 2600. Near Burns's mausoleum, marked by a granite ol^elisk, lie two Covenanters who sutiered death 1667. Sir John Kichardson, the Arctic voyager, and companion of Franklin, was born at Nith-place, Dumfries, in 1787. The Town CouTwil-cliainher con- tains portraits of William of Orange and Mary, also of the third Duke of Queensberry. There is still preserved amongst the civic treasures the silver gun presented by James VI., for the purpose of encouraging the use of firearms amongst the inhabitants of the town. " The large building on the left bank of Nith, a little below the town, is the Crichton Institution, a lunatic asylum, founded by Dr. C. of Friars Carse, at a cost of i'100,000. Dumfries is celebrated as a mart of sheep, bred in the adjacent dis- tricts, and brought hither for sale or exportation to England. It has a considerable manufacture of tweeds and woollens, the Nithsdale and Kingholm mills, below the Bridge, employing a large number of hands. [Steamer to Silloth. Railivays — to Lochmaben and Lockerbie Stat, on the rail, to Glas- gow and Edinburgh (Rte. 5) ; to Stranraer, by Castle-Douglas and Newton-Stewart (Rte. 10) ; to Annan and Carlisle ; to Annan and Mary- port. Distances. — Castle-Douglas, 20 m. ; Carlisle, 33; Annan, 15; Glas- gow, 92. Excursions. — a. up Nithsdale to Lincluden Abbey, 1| m. h. Caerlaverock Castle, 8 m. c. New Abbey, 7 m. a. To Lincluden Abbey (1^ m.), cross the bridge to Maxwelltown, and take the first turn to the right. It was built in the 12th cent, by Uthred, Lord of Galloway, as a convent for Benedictine nuns, but about the close of the 14th it was closed by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Both- well, on account of the immorality of its inmates, and converted into a college and ch. for a provost and 12 beadsmen. It seems pretty certain, at the same time, that the good earl by so doing "did greatly increase his revenues and largely extend his domains." The buildings are very prettily situated on a promontory, surrounded on two sides by the Cluden, and on the third by the Nith, into which the former river flows at the S.E. angle of the grounds. It is a small but beauti- ful Cliurch, in the second Pointed style, of which tlie nave is quite gone. The chancel, walled otf by a screen, is entered by a flat arch, sur- mounted by sculptures of the Life of Christ, supported by a row of angels. Part of the transepts are also pre- served. The tracery of the windows is much mutilated. There is a hand- some canopied monument on the N. side, with inscription, to Margaret Countess of Douglas, daughter of King Robert III. (d. circ. 1430). In Pennant's time the effigy was still there, though mutilated, but it has long since disappeared. Close by the tomb is an archway, beautifully carved and surmounted by the heart and chalice. On the opposite side are three fine sedilia, each with a canopy and crocket, and cusps in the in- terior. Beside the ch. are the ruins of a massive square Peel Tower, probably a part of the Provost's house. Lin- cluden was a favourite haunt of 94 Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgoiv ; Caerlaverock Sect. I. Burns, and here it was that he saw the " Vision." " The stream adown its hazelly path, Was rushing by the ruined wa's, Hasting to join the sweeping Nith, Whose distant roaring swells and fa's." The abbey stands within ancient Earthworks, and at the side of the ch. rises a mound or Moot-hill. The retuni to Dumfries may be by the river-side, 9, very picturesque walk, — that is, should the tourist not feel inclined to extend his ramble up the Cluden Water to Irongray Ch., 3 m. from Lincluden, where, on a shaded little knoll, in the middle of a field, is the grave of two Covenant- ers, named Gordon and M'Cubbin. Upon the tombstone are the follow- ing lines : — " By Lagg and Bloodie Bruce commands We were hung up by hellish hands ; And so, their furious wrath to stay. We died near Kirlv of Irongray ; And boundless peace we now partake. For freedom's and religion's sake. " See also the tomb of Helen Walker, the original of Jeanie Deans, put up by Sir Walter Scott, with an inscrip- tion written by him. Irongray is the scene of the " Eecreations of a Country Parson." The "hilly road to the S. may be taken to Dumfries, passing Terregles House, the property of the Maxwells, once Earls of Nithsdale. It is a handsome modern mansion. In a former mansion Queen Mary found rest and refuge for a few days after her flight of 4 score and 10 miles from the fight of Langside, 1568. From hence she wended her way to Eng- land. Among the family portraits is one of the Countess of N. who so heroically rescued her husband from the Tower by taking his place, 1716. b. Caerlaverock Castle stamls about 9 m. to the S. of Dumfries, on the flat marshy shore of the Solway, be- tween the rivers Nith and Lochar, and was a place of great strength, flanked by the Solway in front, and by Lochar Moss behind, so as to be virtually the key to S.W. Scotland. The road thither keeps the left side of the Kith, passing Castle Dykes (R. Scott, Esq.), and the Crichton Institution. A road on right leads to Kingholm Quay, and on left to Maiden Boicer Crags, a series of rocks through which an opening has to be passed, so narrow, that it requires a person of thin proportions to enter. 6 m. on right H m. is Glencaple, a port and bathing-place frequented by the Dumfries folk — the Portan- ferry of ' ' Guy Mannering. " 9 m. 'Caerlaverock Castle, a very interesting and picturesque building, well suited for the pencil of the sketcher, is situated near the sea- shore, at a spot identified by anti- quaries as the Carbantorigium of Ptolemy. As far back as the days of Malcolm Canmore it belonged to the Maxwells, long time Earls of Niths- dale, ancestors of its present proprie- tors. It was besieged and taken in 1300 by Edward I. in person, though bravely defended for two days against an army furnished with all the war engines then known, by a garrison of only 60 men. A minute account of the siege exists in Norman French.* It was afterwards retaken by Bruce in 1313, to be again recaptured by the English. Not until 1355 was it recaptured from the English by Poger Kirkpatrick. A large part of the exterior of the castle dates from the 14th centy. Within its walls died James V., 1542, just after the defeat of Solway Moss. It was dismantled in revenge for the part Lord Herries had taken in defending Queen Mary. The interior was rebuilt by Maxwell, 1st Earl of Nithsdale, 1638, after its demolition by the Earl of Essex, 1570, The last occasion on which war ap- proached its walls was in 1640, when it was besieged by the Covenanters * Supposed to be the work of Walter of Exeter, a Franciscan friar. Edited and published by i5ir Harris Nicolas. S. Scotland. Route 9. — New, or Sweetheart Abhey. 95 under Col. Home, and capitulated after 13 weeks. The castle, in ground plan a tri- angle, with round towers at the angles, is well built, and protected by water. " It had good walls and good ditches, tilled to the edge with water, and I believe there never was seen a castle so beautifully situ- ated, for at once could be seen the Irish Sea towards the W., and to the N. a fine country, sur- rounded by an arm of the sea, so that no creature born could approach it on two sides without putting him- self in danger of the sea."— Nicolas. The gi-eat gateway, over which is the crest of the Maxwells, and the motto " I bid ye fair," pierces a narrow curtain between machicolated round towers of old baronial architecture, and one of the round towers at the angles of the triangle still remains, and shows evidence of three storeys. It is called Murdoch's Tower, be- cause Murdoch, Duke of Albany, was confined there, by order of James I., previous to his execution at Stirling, 1424. " The buildings in the court- yard have the canopied and sculp- tured window-cases of the domestic architecture of James YL, and re- mind one of Linlithgow Palace and Heriot's Hospital." On the lower storey are heraldic devices, the stag, hedgehog, etc. ; on the second are illus- trated legends, and on the third are fables from the "Metamorphoses" of Ovid. The great hall, 90 ft. long by 26 broad, had originally two turrets. Sir Walter Scott, in "Guy Man- nering," acknowledges that the gene- ral outline of his description of Ellangowan resembled Caerlaverock. " The massive and picturesque effect of the huge round towers flanking the gateway, give a double portion of depth and majesty to the high yet gloomy arch under which it opened. The rude magnificence of the inner court amply responded to the gran- deur of the exterior. On one side ran a range of windows, lofty and large, which had once lighted the great hall, on the other were various buildings, of different heights and dates. The doors and windows were ornamented with projections offering rude specimens of sculpture. . . . The end of the court which faced the entrance had formerly been closed by a range of buildings, but owing, it is said, to its having been battered by the ships of the Parliament under Deane, this part of the castle was much more ruinous than the rest." In Caerlaverock ch. -yd. is a monu- ment to Old Mortality, set up by Messrs. A. and C. Black, pub- lishers. c. To Ne2v, or Sivcetheart Ahhcy, 7^ m. Travellers not pressed for time, and desirous of seeing a part of Scotland seldom explored, but full of beauty, are recommended to take the road from Dumfries to Dalbeat- tie Stat., round Criffel, and near the sea, by Carsphaim and Kirkbean, an easy day's drive, as follows : — The road crosses Dumfries bridge, and descends the valley of the Nith, at some distance from the river. 3^ m. is Cargen (P. Dudgeon, Esq. ) 5| m. From Whinnyhill is a beauti- ful view of Dumfries, with the valley of the Nith, its luxuriant cornfields pleasantly varied by plantations. Kirkconnell is a fine ancient mansion, surrounded by old trees (W. H. Witham, Esq.) On right rises the bulky mass of Criffel, 1867 ft. above the sea, at the foot of which, in a most picturesque secluded valley, watered by the Abbey stream, 'is the Cistercian ruin of New Abbey. It was founded in 1275 by Devorgilla Balliol, one of the founders of Balliol College, Oxford, who was herself buried here, and ordered the casket containing the heart of John Balliol, her husband (which she had treasured after his death in a casket, and borne in her bosom), to be placed in her tomb. Erom this circumstance the abbey obtained the name of Douce 96 Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgoiv. Sect. I. Coeur, Dulce Cor, or Sweetheart Abbe3\ The Church is cruciform, consisting of nave, of 6 bays, with all the main arches perfect, and part of the clerestory, transepts having E. aisles or chapels, one retaining its vaulting choir without aisles, and central tower, 90 ft. high, resting on 4 arches. The style is, generally speaking, E. Pointed, though the building appears to have been finish- ed, or perhaps altered, in the Deco- rated period. The W. entrance is of very simple character, but above it is a triplet window surmounted by an elegant rose within a triangle. There is a fine Dec. window in the N. transept. The E. window (Dec.) is of 5 lights, and its tracery remains ; and is surmounted by a window similar to the one in the transept. The S. transept wall, partly built up, retains part of a wheel window of original character. Of the roof nothing re- mains, except that of the aisle of the S. transept, which is groined, and, at the intersections, has a shield. Upon one of these are two crosiers en saltier, surrounded by a heart, probably the coat of arms belonging to the abbey. There is also an in- scription, " Clius tim of nid " (choose time of need) — a sort of punning motto adopted by this fraternity of Nithside. The abbey seems to have figured but little in history. Its last abbot, Gilbert Brown, is said to have been the original of Scott's Abbot of St. Mary's. The Abbey ruins stand close to the large village of New Abbey, in- cluding 2 humble hostels and a mill. An ugly kirk has been planted close to the ruin, obstructing the view of it. The route may be varied on the return to Dumfries by proceeding up the valley ■)! the Abbey Water to its source in Loch Arthur, and joining the rly. at Killywhan Stat., about 5 m. In pursuing the road to Dalbeattie the driver should be directed to follow the road under CrifFel, which is a very picturesque object from all points, by Kirkbean, and by the shore road through Colvend. The country is beautifully wooded, the road almost an avenue, at other times a sort of cornice along the seashore, with con- stant variety of views — seaward over Solway to the Cumberland moun- tains, and landwards towards Criffel, and up a succession of pretty glens. It ascends the small valley of the Urr, passing granite quarries to Dalbeattie Stat. Eoute 10.] From Dumfries the Rail to Glas- goio runs N. E. up the valley of the Nith, which in this, its lower portion, is broad and well cultivated, to 36|- m. Holyivood Stat., where formerly a Premonstratensian abbey, founded by Devorgilla Balliol, stood. The last remains were taken down in 1778, and the parish ch. built of the materials. The old bells are still preserved. Crossing the Nith, on right is Dalswinton, the seat of W. M'Alpine Leny, Esq. This estate formerly belonged to the Millers : Patrick Miller was the first to experiment, 1788, upon steam as a locomotive power, in water, in a little ves.sel launched on the lake, which still forms the chief ornament of the park. On the opposite bank of the river is Ellisland, the farm which Burns rented of Mr. Miller of Dalswinton, where he resided previous to his taking up his abode in Dumfries. Here lie wrote his ' ' Tam O'Shanter," and his touching verses, ' ' To Mary in Heaven." On a window in the house may still be seen, scratched by Burns upon the glass, " An honest man's the noblest work of God." A road from Holywood Stat, leads direct to Ellisland. A little farther is Friar's Carse, a house once be- DUM JURIES. Route 9. — Thornhill ; Drumlanrig. 97 longing to the Eiddells, where the poet spent much of his time. Over- looking the river, close to it, is a camp and stone circle. 404^ m. at AuIdgWth Stat.^ close to a handsome bridge over the Nith — perhaps the prettiest spot in its whole course ; the valley begins to contract, and the hills to be more lofty, the scenery broken. At this point the Permian sandstones, which have formed the bottom of the valley of the Xith to the sea upwards, cease. The hills on either side of it are of Lower Silurian rock. The river here winds through a defile in the Silurian rocks. On 1. is Blackwood ( Copland, Esq.) The rly. next ascends, and keeps the high gi'ound ovei'looking the river, and occasion- ally getting charming peeps into Nithsdale, to 44| m. Closeburn Stat. A little beyond it, on right, is Closehurn Hall, the fine seat of the Misses Baird, formerly of Sir J. Stuart J\Ien- teith. Here the hills again retire, and another basin of Permian and car- boniferous strata fills up the widened valley of the Nith. Among the hills behind the house is Crickhope Linn, where a small stream jumps down from the moorlands, saws its way into the soft (Permian) sandstone, and in escaping to the plain has shaped out a cave or chapel. The cliffs rise 40 or 50 ft. above the stream, yet so little se- parated that it is easy to leap across the fissure. Of this fact Sir Walter Scott, who knew the spot and had it "ever present to his fancy," has taken advantage in the scene in "Old Mortality," between Morton and Balfour. The fall is half-a-mile higher up. Closebuim Castle, Avhich is in the grounds of the hall, is an old seat of the Kirkpatrick family, from whom Eugenie, Empress of the French, de- rives her Scotch descent. It is a square tower, with vaulted rooms. To right of the station is the Wallace [Scotland.'l School, founded by a Glasgow mer- chant of that name. 48 m. Thornhill Stat, the town is about a mile to the left. {Inns .- Buccleuch Arms ; George. ) Thorn- hill is a neat, well-built, little town, having in the centre a cross, sur- mounted by the Queensberry Arms. The naturalist should obtain per- mission to see the collection of Dr. Grierson, in which the geology of Xithsdale is exemplified. [Thorn- hill is the Stat, for Drumlanrig (4 m. ), the seat of the Duke of Buc- cleuch ; for, although Carron Bridge is in reality considerably nearer, there is no bridge there to cross the Nith. The situation of the castle, as seen from the rly. , is so high and open as to overlook the tall woods and undulating hills, and commands a view over terraced gardens tapest- ried with flowers, down to the brawling Nith and its wooded banks beyond. The park Avas devastated by its former owner, old Q , but, since 1811, when it came to the Buc- cleuch family, is once more restored, and boasts of noble forest scenery. The castle was built 1675-1688 by William, first Duke of Queensberry, minister of James II. It is a quad- rangular building of red stone. It has the character of a stately chateau, somewhat like Heriot's Hospital, re- taining parts of an old castle, includ- ing a grim dungeon, now a wine-cellar. The interior can be seen Tuesday and Friday, or in the absence of the family. The paintings are chiefly family portraits. In the park, nearly opposite Carron Bridge, there is a ruin called Tihher''s Castle, which was destroyed by Bruce in 1311. It is thought to have been Roman (? Tiberii Castel). In the Church of Durisdeer are the sculptured monu- ments in marble of the Queensberry family, including James Douglas, 2d Duke, and his Lady, d. 1711.] [On the return to Thornhill the antiquary may diverge to visit some 98 Route 9. — CarUsIe to Glasgoiv ; Sanquhar. Sect. I. sculptured upright stones, probably of the date of the 11th cent, between it and Penpont. This is a pretty Tillage on the Shinnel Water, which falls near here into the Nith. It rises in the elevated chain of hills between Thornhill and Dalmelling- ton. On the S. bank, a little higher up than Penpont, is Capernoch, the seat of T. S. Gladstone, Esq. It is a picturesque road hence all the Avay to Tynron, and the quiet out-of-the- way town of Moniaive or Minnie- hive.] About 4 m. from Minniehive, on the Dumfries road, is Maxwellton, seat of F. Laurie, Esq., the locale of the favourite song of "Annie Laurie," commencing with "Maxwelltou braes are bonnie." Annie was one of the daughters of Sir Robert Laurie, and married Fergusson of Craigdarroch. The song was composed by a disappointed lover. The valley of the Cairn is rich in tombs and memorials of the Covenanters. One stands in the garden of a farmhouse at Ingleston, near Minniehive, and another in a field adjoining the Free Church. Still nearer Dumfries, in a glen run- ning down to the village of Dunscore, are the ruins of Lag, the seat of the once powerful family of Grierson, one of whom shares with Claverhouse the reputation of being the persecutor of the Covenant. 51 m. at Carron Brichfe Stat, the wooded scenery of the Nith is suc- ceeded by a wild and rather desolate moorland, with but few inhabitants. [From hence it is about 2 m. right to Morton Castle, said to have been founded about 1080 by a De Mor- ville, grandfather of the founder of Kilwinning and Drj'burgh Abbej^s. It was afterwards bestowed by Robert Bruce (being then part of the con- fiscated property of Palliol) upon Randolph, Earl of Moray, and here he lived as Regent of the kingdom to David II. It then passed into the hands of the Douglas family, to whom it gave the title of Earl, and now belongs to the Duke of Buc- cleuch. It stands on the margin of a deep glen, and was at one time nearly surrounded by water, which has now drained away. J At 53 m. the line crosses on a noble viaduct the Carron Water and a road, formerly a Roman road, that traverses the moors to Elvanfoot Stat, on the Caledonian line. (Rte. 5.) Passing through a tunnel 4200 feet long, under the domain of Drumlan- rig, the rly. still keeps the high ground on the left bank of the Nith, having on left 59 m. Eliock (J. Yeitch, Esq.), where the " Admirable Crichton " is said to have been born in 1560. (The Castle of Cluny, Perthshire, also claims the distinction of being his birthplace). The Nith traverses another defile through Silurian rock, 61 m, Sanquhar {Inn : Queens- berry Arras), a Pari, borough, and once a place of importance, in a dreary situation, surrounded by round-backed hills, A little to the S, of the town is the ruin of its castle — one of the strongholds of the S.W, of Scotland. Near it is a Moot hill. It has 1324 inhab., part em- ployed in weaving wool and cotton, and part in the mines of glance coal. A party of armed Covenanters in 1680 attached to the town-cross a Declaration renouncing allegiance to the Stuarts, and declaring war against them. Nearly 2 m. again to the S. are remains of an earthwork running parallel with the Nith, and called the DcviVs Dyke. From Sanquhar an excursion may be made to Wan- lockhead and Leadhills, 8 m., and thence to Elvanfoot (Rte. 5). 64 m. Kirlccomiell Stat. The same earthwork is to be traced to the S. of Ayr. Route 9. — Atjt fFafer ; Mauchline. 99 this station. As the rly. approaches the source of the ISTith the scenery becomes more wild and dreary, al- though relieved by rather lofty ranges, rising on either side to the height of 1500 or 2000 feet. 71 m. New Cumnock Stat, is situ- ated at the confluence of the ISTith with the Afton, the traveller bids adieu to the Nith, and enters the boundaries of the Ayrshire coalfield. 2 m. E. is Mansfield, the seat of Sir J. Stuart Menteith, Bart. Soon after passing New Cumnock the watershed is ci'ossed, and the rly. descends the valley of the Lugar to 764 Old Cumnock Junct. Stat., prettily situated at the confluence of the Lugar and the Glaisnock. Both Old and New Cumnock had formerly a reputation for the manu- facture of snufl"- boxes. 14 m. left is Dumfries House, a seat of the Mar- quis of Bute, in an estate of 43,734 acres ; and about 2 m. to the rt. are the Lugar ironworks, to which there is a branch rly. from 784^ m. AuGHixLECK Junct. Stat. (pronounced Affleck). 3 m. W. is Auchinlcck House, residence of the family of which Boswell, the friend and companion of Johnson, was a member. His father, a Judge of Session, resided here under the title of Lord Auchinleck, and was visited by Johnson, who praised the sullen dignity of the old castle. James Boswell, Johnson's biographer, who alone of his family has made the name distinguished, is buried here. [Hence a branch of 10 m. runs E. to Muirkirk, a small town entirely dependent on the neighbouring iron- works and collieries. It passes, 3 m., Lugar ironworks, situated on the N. bank of the Lugar, which is extremely picturesque here. To the N. of Lugar is Aird's Moss — a wild, dreary swamp, marked by scattered pits and ironstone mines, but also known as the scene of a skirmish between the Eoyalists and Covenant- ers, in which Richard Cameron, their leader, was slain, 1680, "leaving his name to a religious sect and a re- nowned regiment in the British army." — Burton. An obelisk at the E. extremity commemorates the event. At Muirkirk, 10 m., there are 3 furnaces, belonging, with those at Lugar, to the Bairds. From hence a road runs E. through the hills between Ayrshire and Lanarkshire, of which the Cairn-table, 1942 ft., is the highest point, to Douglas (Rte. 8).] Before reaching Mauchline, the line crosses the Ayr Water by a magnificent viaduct of a single arch (Ballochmyle Bridge). When seen from the river, 200 ft. below, the eff'ect of its extreme lightness and great span is singularly impressive and pleasing. On the banks of the river, 14 m. left, is Barskimming, the seat of Sir T. M. jMiller ; and on right is the village of Catrine, with Catrine House, once the residence of Prof. Dugald Stewart and his father ; and Ballochmyle House (Col. Alexander). This is the scene of Burns's two sonnets, " The Braes of Ballochmyle," commencing — ■ " The Catrine woods were yellow seen, The flowers decay'd on Catrine lee," ^\Titten to express the sorrow of Miss Whiteford when her father, Sir John Whiteford, was obliged to part with the old family place ; and the *' Lass of Ballochmyle" in honour of Miss Alexander, whose father purchased the property. The park is very picturesque, the ground sloping rather abruptly to the Ayr, and being profusely shaded with beech and other forest trees. A little higher up is the village and castle of Sorn, an old baronial seat of the Earls of Loudon and Winton, now of Graham Somervell, Esq. 83 m. Mauchline {Inn : Loudon 100 Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgow ; Kilmarnock Sect. I. Arms), Pop. 1600, on a commanding height, well known as the place Avhere Burns spent his time when nominally attached to his mother's and brother's farm at Mossgicl, which lies 1 h m, to the N . The church, the main feature in the town, is a heavy Gothic build- ing, very ditferent from that which stood in its place at the end of the last century. The churchyard is the scene of " the Holy Fair." Opposite to it is the cottage of Ann Gibson, better known as " Poosie Nansie," in whose kitchen the "Jolly Beggars" " held the splore To drink their orra duddies." Next house to this, but separated by a lane, was the Whiteford Arms Inn. It now bears the sign of the Cross Keys, but has ceased to be a public- house. One John Dove was land- lord of it in Burns's time, and upon him the poet wrote the epitaph beginning — " Here lies Johnnie Pigeon." A little way up the lane lived Jean Armour before she was publicly ac- knowledged as Burns's wife. On the other side of the ch.-yd. is " Nanse Tinnock's," and close by, between the ch.-yd. and the remains of Old Mauchline Castle, was Gavin Hamil- ton's house, in which Burns was married. There is nothing at Moss- giel to identify it with the poet's re- sidence, which lasted for a period of 3 years. The farm consisted of 112 acres, and was worked conjointly by the whole family ; but the poet's inattention and grave offences made the place too hot to hold him, and he was about to proceed to the W. Indies, when the reputation which a hastily published edition of his poems had raised, and the ad%dce of his friends, induced him to push his fortune in Edinburgh. Mauchline is well known for its manufacture of wood ware, snuff-boxes, etc., painted with tartan and other patterns. 90 1 m. at Hurlford Junct., which is on the banks of the Irvine, a branch is given off on right to K'ew- milns, passing 4 m. Galston, de- pendent principally on weaving. A little to the N. is Loudon Cctstle, an old castle with an ugly modern front, purchased in 1868 for £.300,000 from the Marquis of Hastings by Lord Bute. The grounds are charming, and there is a pleasant walk through them from Galston to (6 m.) New- mibis, a small manufacturing town, noted for its fine muslins. 4 m. to the E. of ]S^e^vmilns, on the Strath- avon road, is Loudon Hill, where, in 1307, Bruce defeated the Earl of Pembroke, and laid the foundation of his ultimate success. On the farm oi Drumelog, 2 m. E. of Loudon Hill, was fought another battle, Sunday, June 1, 1679, when John Graham of Claverhouse, with a troop of life- guards and some dragoons, marching to disperse an armed Conventicle, was met and charged by 200 fighting men, commanded by Hackston of Ptathillet, Balfour of Burley, and others, all experienced officers, and was signally routed by them. 36 of the soldiers were left dead on the field: only 3 Covenanters being slain. A monument now crowns the hill, and a commemorative service is annually held here. Around it lime- works have sprung up, and a coal- mine is opened.] 92i m. KUmarnoch {Inns : George ; Black Bull), a Pari, borough, and place of considerable importance in the manufacturing world (pop. 22,963), producing carpets, shawls, bonnets, boots, and (prior to the in- troduction of the hat) the " Kilmar- nock cowl." It stands on a small stream of the same name that falls into the Irvine. The older part of the town is narrow and irregularly built. In the ch. -yd. of the Laigh Parish Kirk is an epitaph, by Burns, over " Tam Samson." " Tam Samson's -weel-worn clay here lies. Ye canting zealots spare hira ! If honest worth in heaven rise, Ye' 11 mend or ye win near him." Aye. Route 10. — Dumfries to Poiipatrich. 101 At the cross, in King-street, is a statue of Sir Jas. Shaw, a native of this town, and Lord Mayor of liOndon in 1806. From the press of this town Burns's poems first issued ; and among its inhabitants were included many of his most generous friends. Distances. — Troon, 9 ni. ; Ayr, 15| ; Mauchline, 9 ; Eowallan Castle, H. [There is a pretty walk up the Fenwick Water to Dean Castle, 1 m., the ancient fort of the Boyds, Barons and Earls of Kilmarnock, the last of whom was beheaded in 1746. The castle was destroyed by fire 11 years before, in 1735. 2 m. is the ruined castle of Craufordland, and 4 m. is Fenwick village, the ch.-yd. of which place contains a number of Covenanters' tombs. 2 m. to the N. of Kilmarnock is Kilmaurs, an old burgh formerly belonging to the Earls of Glencairn. In the burial-place of the family, near the church, is the monument of the 9th Earl, Chancellor of Scotland temp. Charles II. Elephant remains have been found here in beds below the boulder clay. About 1 m. far- ther is Rowallaii Castle, once the baronial residence of the Mures of Eowallan, a member of which family, Elizabeth Miire, was wife of King Robert II. of Scotland. Sir William Mure, who flourished in the 17th centy., was an author of no mean repute, and, amongst other works, wrote the history of his family. The castle is a place of great antiquity, the more modern portions of which were built in 1560. It is charm- ingly situated, but hidden from view by ^plantations. ] A little to the S. of Kilmarnock, and on the opposite bank of the Irvine, is the village of Riccarton, M'here Wallace is said to have spent many of his younger days at the farm of an uncle. 95 m. Steioarton Stat. (3 m. from the town), a wretched place, where the manufacture of cowls and High- land bonnets is carried on. The district of Dunlop is famous for its cheeses. Ruius of numerous border towers, which belonged to the Cun- ninghams. 102 m. Dairy Junction Stat., where the line from Ayr to Glasgow joins the main line. Coach to Parton Stat. In the neighbourhood is a cave, on the farm of Auchinskeifh, in the course of the Dusk water, which has been formed in one of the limestones. This stream aff"ords to the geologist many interesting sections of the car- boniferous limestone series of Ayr- shire. For the remaining 23 m. to Glasgow Terminus, see Rtes. 12 and 16. ROUTE 10. Dumfries to Portpatrick, by Cas- tle-Douglas, Newton-Stewart, "Wigtown, and Stranraer.- Caledonian Kly. 804 111- ri^'6 through trains in 5 hrs. ; single line, liable to constant delays. Quitting the stat. at Dumfries (Rte. 9), this r\y. winds round the IST. of the town, crosses the Nith near Lincluden, and skirts 14 m. Maxifelltown Stat., a suburb of Dumfries (Rte. 9), celebrated for its cloth works (Tweeds). On right is Terregles (Rte. 9), the family seat of the Maxwells (Lords Herries), where Queen Mary stayed before her embarkation for England. Lord Herries was her close adherent, and a cunning politician. The house is modern, and built of red freestone. The gardens are very charming, and abound in terraces and clipped hedges. 102 Route 10. — Dumfries to PortpatricJc. Sect. I. A little to tlie S. of J^laxwelltown is Corbelly Hill, with an observatory on the top, from -which there is a charming view of Dumfries. The line, passing through a cutting in the Permian breccia, gets into the hilly districts by the time it reaches 54 m. Lochanhcad, to tlie right of which, 1 m., is Loch Rutton. 8 m. Killyichan Stat., from whence there is a mountain-road, practicable for carriages, past Loch Arthur, and down the valley of Kew Abbe}^ Water to the picturesque ruins of New Abbey, 6 m. (Rte. 9). 10 m. Kirlcgunzcon Stat. This name probably means "the clmrcli of extreme unction." In the neigh^ bourhood are the ruined towers of Drumcoltran and Corra, the latter an old seat of the Maxwells. The mountains on the left begin to assume a more formidable height, the principal ones being Cuil Hill, 1377 ft, and Hard Hill, 1335 ft., leading up to the main elevation of Criffel, 1867 ft. 12 m., near Southiuick Stat., is Barclosh, an old seat of the Herries family, overlooking the stream of Kirkgunzeon Lane. 14 m. Dalbeattie Stat. {Inn : JMax- well Arms, post-horses and carriages good) ; a prettily situated thriving town in the valley of the Urr. The population (2000) employed in various works and mills, paper, iron, etc., but principally dependent on the granite quarries, which are in good repute with engineers, having fur- nished stone for the Thames Em- bankment, and many of the largest docks in the kingdom. Messrs. Newall and Co. have extensive works, in which monuments, pillars, win- dow frames, etc., are polished and turned out quite as good as those from Aberdeen. 2 m. to the S. , on the right bank of the Urr, is Munches (Wellwood H. Maxwell, Esq.), a fine granite man- sion, rebuilt after having been struck by lightning in 1868 and burnt down, in a beautiful park above the wind- ing Urr. The grounds abound with tine trees, pines, etc. The name probably originates with the MonTcSy its former owners. From Dalbeattie it is a pleasant drive of 10 m. to Dundrennan Abbey (Rte. 10a) by Auchencass. The rly. passes 1. the granite quarries, etc. , in Craig Nair. About 3 m. rt. the remarkable earthwork the Moot of Urr, a very perfect cir- cular mound surrounded by a deep trench, and standing on a wide plat- form also inclosed within a fosse. In Celtic days it was probably used as a seat of justice and place of council. From Dalbeattie the line turns northward, crossing the Urr, and passes close by the Moot to 20 m. Castle- Douglas Junct. Stat. {Inns : Douglas Arms ; Commer- cial), a busy country town (chief town of Galloway), with a good market, well situated on the N. side of CarlingvKtrk Loch, which has a number of small wooded islands upon it. Formerly a causeway led from the shore to one of these islands, from which fact Castle-Douglas was once called Causeway End. At the S. end of the Loch is a place called the Gallows Plot, from the execu- tions that used to take place there when the district belonged to the Douglas family. About 3 m. to the S., on Gelston Burn, is Gelston Castle (C. Maitland Kirwan, Esq. ) 14 m. to the E., on an island of the Dee, unapproachable by land except in very dry weather, is Threave Cattle, long the headquarters of the Douglas family ; afterwards of the Earls of Nithsdale. It consists of one large gloomj^ tower, with a small courtyard in front, and entrance guarded b}" small turrets. Over the doorway is a projecting block of granite, called the " hanging stone," or *' gallows knob," which the S. Scotland. Route 10. — Parton; New Galloivay. 103 Douglas used to boast " never wanted its tassel. " Threave witnessed some bloody scenes, and none more so than the murder of Sir Patrick M'Lellan by the Earl of Douglas, who captured him by bribing Sir Patrick's warder by the promise of a ladleful of gold. Wlien the traitor claimed his reward, tlie Earl, with a grim humour, caused the gold to be melted and poured down his throat. The Earl finished his career by being stabbed by the King in Stirling Castle. It is said that the gun called ]\[ons Meg, now in the Castle of Edin- burgh, was made here, for the pur- pose of reducing Threave Castle, when besieged by James II. in 1451 ; and, in confirmation of the story, several large stone balls have been found here, too big for the ordinary artillery of the day. Branch Railway to Kirkcudhririht; coach thence to Gatehouse (Rte. 10a). The rly. from Castle-Douglas to Portpatriek makes a wide circuit, so as to come within reach of New Gal- loway. It first of all runs N.W., passing right Greenlaw and Danevale Park, and approaching close to the Dee at 23 1 m. Crossmichaxl Stat. There is a ch. here dedicated to the Arch- angel, but no traces, traditional or material, of his cross. On the oppo- site side of the river, which here be- comes broad, is Balmaghie Ch., 25 m. The lower end of Loch Ken comes in sight at 27 m. Parton Stat. Coach to Dairy. Nearly opposite the village the Ken joins the Dee, the latter np to this point being mnch the smaller stream, although it gives its name to the nnited river. The lower end of Loch Ken is crossed by a viaduct near the wooded knoll of Nether Airds, There is a ferry-boat here for carriages and horses, but the best way for the pedestrian will be to cross by the rly. bridge. On left of the line is Hensol, the seat of R. D. B. Cuninghame, Esq. 29 m. Keiv Galloivay Stat. [Coach to the town upwards of 5 m. distant, the road thither keeping the W. bank of Loch Ken, under the pic- turesquely wooded slopes of Cairn Edward, 1060 ft. Overlooking the head of the lake is Kenmure Castle (Hon. Mrs. Bellamy-Gordon), on a lofty mound, and approached by a splendid avenue. The older parts of it belong to the 15th centy., and the modern, which may be 2 centuries later, are well adapted to them. The title of Kenmure, first gi-anted by Charles I. to Sir John Gordon, was forfeited in 1716, when the 7th Vis- count was executed for high treason. It was revived in favour of his grand- son, but has again become extinct. 5 m. Neio Galloway {Inn : Ken- mure Arms) is a Parliamentary borough, with a pop. of 440, and a constituency of 65, although no more than a village on the right bank of the Ken, which is crossed higher up by a bridge of 5 arches. The scenery in the neighbourhood of Glen Ken is extremely l>retty, and will well repay the pedestrian, who will find in an excursion hence to Dalmelling- ton some of the most desolate scenery in the S. of Scotland. The traveller is now in the very heart of Galloway, the name of a district, including Carrick, or the S. division of Ayrshire, with Wigtown- shire and Kirkcudbrightshire. The latter county is called a Stewartry, from the fact that when the posses- sions of the Balliols and their vassals were forfeited, the whole district fell into the possession of the Crown, and was put under the authority of a royal steward. From New Galloway a road runs to Dairy, 8 m., on each side of the Ken, that on the "VV. passing Glen- lee, the prettily-wooded park of Well- 104 Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer. Sect. I. wood Maxwell, Esq. ; and on the W. passing Holme House, situated on the romantic banks of the little river Carple. The valley narrows above Dairy, and assumes more of a Highland character as the road approaches 16 m. the village of Carsphairn, sur- rounded on either side by hills, vary- ing in height from 1000"to 1700 ft. The pedestrian should here leave the road and stiike W. up into the mountains called the Kells range. Ascending to the watershed he will look doAvn upon Loch Loon and a wide amphitheatre of some of the wildest hills in the S. of Scotland. He can either descend to the head of the loch, whence a good road will take him to Dalmelliugton, or he may re- turn to Carsphairn. 25 m. Dalmelliugton (Rte. 12).] New Galloicay to Stroanaid. Crossing the end of Loch Stroan by another A^aduct, the rly. passes through a country so desolate that after Drummox there is no stat. for 13 m. Loch Skerro^v is another con- siderable lake on right, just before arriving at the Water of Fleet, a stream rising in the fine range of Cairnsnioor of Fleet, 2612 ft., one of the loftiest mountains in Galloway. 43 m. Creetov:n Stat., on a height, is built of a mosaic of boulder stones — granites, shites, greywacke. You may study geology in its walls. (1 m. rt. below lies the town, a small port at the mouth of the Cree, which, together with the Bladenoch river, forms the estuary of Wigtown Bay, the Jena ^Estuarium of the Eomans. Burns has immortalised the former river by his beautiful little ballad, "The Banks of Cree : "— " And let us all our vows renew Along the flowing banks of Cree." In the manse of Kirkmahreck was born, 1778, Dr. Thomas Brown, the distinguished Professor of Moral Philosophy in Edinburgh, 1818- 1819. He is buried in the old ch.- yd. There are fine gi-anite quarries on the E. shore of Wigtown Bay, about 2 m. S. of Creetown, which have supplied some of the stone of which the Liverpool docks are built. The rly. skirts the N. shore of Wig- town Bay by the banks of the Cree, which it crosses. 46| m. Palnure Stat., where the line crosses the Palnure Water. [A pleasant drive may be taken up the Palnure Water (right bank), along the New Galloway Road, to the Murray Moniiment, a granite obelisk erected in a commanding position by Mrs. Stewart of Cairns- more in memory of Dr. Alexander Murray, a celebrated linguist and professor of Oriental languages in the University of Edinburgh. He was the son of a shepherd at Dun- kitterick, and educated at Minnigaff parish school, a striking example of the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties. A little before reaching the monu- ment, on right, is a rocking-stone. Beyond it, on left, the stream makes a series of pretty falls, known as the Grey Mare's Tail.] The rly. now runs up the vallej'- of the Cree to 50 m. Neiaton-Stewai't Junct. Stat. {Inns : Galloway Arms, in the main street ; Crown, near stat.), it con- sists of a straggling street about 1 m. in length (2470 inhab.), well seen from the bridge over the Cree, and has a cheerful aspect. The modern Church, which is in the parish of Pennihghame, Avhere the bishops of Galloway originally had their palace, has a lofty spire ; and the town-hall has a tower and cupola. The Eicart Institute, an educational establishment founded by a gentleman of that name, for poor children, is a modern Gothic building on a height, near the ch. [There is a beautiful excursion up by S. Scotland. Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer. 105 the Cree to Loch Trool (12 m.), leaving rt. the pretty village and ch. tower of Minnigaft", and passing by Penninghame — E. J. Stopford Blair, Esq. — who has built an elegant Gothic Ejnscopal Ch. Higher up, on the left bank of the Penkell, among very rich woods, is Cumloden (one of the projjerties given by the Bruce to three widows' sons), a shooting-box of the Earl of Galloway. The ivied ruins of Garlies Castle are in the woods beyond. The valley, finely wooded and en- livened by the windings of the Cree, presents a succession of j^leasing scenes, until at 9 m. the river is crossed at the upper bridge of the Cree, and an open country is tra- versed to reach Loch Trool (3 miles), where Lord Galloway has another shooting-box in the midst of the moors, surrounded by a pretty garden, with hedges of fuchsias and other delicate plants, which testify to the mildness of the climate. The loch is a narrow sheet of water, beautifully broken by wooded promontories, and lying embosomed in lofty hills, which rise precipitously on the E. side, pre- senting some of the highest and most rugged ground in the S. of Scot- land. A good road all the way. There is a boat on the lake, from which the best view is gained. Here the English force was nearly de- stroyed by Robert Bruce and his men rolling down huge stones on the enemy as they marched along the bank of the lake below. At the S. end are some Covenanters' graves. From the head of Loch Trool the pedestrian can cross the dividing ridge and descend Loch Dee, a splendid walk. The Minnigaff range on the W. of the valley of the Cree is much more broken in outline and more picturesque than that of Cairnsmore, and affords glorious rambling ground for the pedestrian, with magnificent views. E. of Newton Stewart, close to the bridge, is Kirrouchtree, the seat of the Eev. W. JMaxwell Heron. At his gate is the notice — No en- trance except on business. The Ely. is now open to Wigtown, and runs through a cultivated but uninteresting country to 7 m. Wigtown {Inn : Queen's Arms). An obelisk stands on high ground at the entrance of Wigtown, commemorating the fate of two female Covenanters, Margaret M'Lauchlan (an old woman) and Margaret Wilson (a girl of 18), who Avere said to have been tied to a stake and drowned by the rising tide of the Bladenoch river in 1685. They were buried in the parish churchyard below. Drowning was an old mode of punishment in Scotland, and especially in Galloway, where the right of pit and gallows (in Latin fossa et furcd), that is of inflicting death either by drowning or hang- ing, subsisted longer than in other countries. WigtoAvn is a pleasant and pic- turesque little town (1780 inhab.), having in the middle of its broad main street a well-shaded howling- green, the uniformity of which is broken by a tall cross. The Town- hall and County Buildings form a picturesque group. By following a road on the N. bank of the Bladenoch for about 3 m., the antiquary will find, at Torhousc, on the right of the road, 3 rude stones, the'.highest 4 ft. 6 in. high. On the left of the road, in a field, is a com- plete circle of 19 stones 60 ft. dia- meter, the 2 largest about 5 ft. 6 in. and 5 ft. high. In the centre of the circle are 2 blocks 5 ft. high. At 8 m. the Bladenoch is crossed at the village of the same name, noted for its whisky, having on the opposite bank the little quay of Bal- doon, and the old castle of Balcloon, belonging to the Earl of Galloway. This castle was the scene of the tragedy immortalised by Scott in ' ' The Bride of Lammermoor. " The lOG Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer. Sect. I. bride was Janet, eldest daughter of Sir James Dalrymple, Lord Stair, and the bridegroom was David Dundas of Baldoon. They were married Angust 12th, 1669. She died soon after, and report asserted, untruly, that she stabbed her husband in a fit of the malady under which she sank, 10 m. Kirkness village, to the W. of which is Barnbarroch ( R. Vans Ag- new, Esq. , M. P. ) The railroad goes direct to Whithorn, keeping straight on by Sorbie, near which is Doiv- alton Loch, which has been drained, revealing lake-dwellings similar to those in Switzerland. No less than 4 artificial islands were found, con- structed with timber and hurdles weighted with heavy stones, furnished with fireplaces, together with a large quantity of bones of deer, boars, Bos primogenius, etc. Between Sorbie and Garlieston is the old Place of S'orbic, a former residence of the family of Hannay in James IV. 's reign. The Ely. -ftill shortly run on to Whithorn by the coast to 14 m. Garlieston '{rnns .- Queen's Arms ; Galloway Arms), a small sea- port, from whence a steamer runs three times a month to Liverpool. Coach to Wigtown. Adjoining the town is Galloiva]/ IJousc, the seat of the Earl of Galloway, with ex- tensive woods surrounding it. The house and grounds command fine views of the Cumberland and Man mountains. Here is an episcopal Clmpcl. On Eggerness Point, to the N. of Garlieston, are slight ruins of Eggerness Castle, and to the S. is Cruggleton Castle, once an import- ant fortress belonging to the Comyns, standing on the sea- coast to the left. The foundations of the exterior wall and a piece of an arch are all that is left. 21 m. Whithorn or Whithern {Inn : Grapes), a Pari, borough, con- sists of one long street, containing the Town House, Avith its tower and bells, and separating at its S. end into two branches, the one on the left leading to Whithorn Isle, 34 m., which serves as seaport to the town. Pop. 1577. Whithorn has an historic interest as the place where the first Christian . church in Scotland was built, by St. Ninian, the apostle of the low- lands, in the 4th centy., according to Bede. Amongst the antiquities of Whithorn is, on the right side of the street, as you enter, an archway (which led to the Priory) supported by old pillars, wdth heads decorated with oak -leaves, and bearing a shield ; that on the right has a bar saltier, and that on the left the arms of the bishops of Galloway. The churchyard stands upon the vaults and cellars of the old Priory. In the middle is the remnant of the Priory Ch., which was used as a parish ch. up to 1822, when the new one was built close by. This frag- ment of the old ch. is but the chancel of one which followed the original stone ch. of Bede. On the N. of the high altar are two canopied tombs ; these have been restored, and one of tliem is supposed to mark the last resting-place of St. Ninian. On the S.W. side is a Norman door, with handsome mouldings, and a ram's head on the keystone ; and there is also a good S.E. door with carved imposts. The old vault is the bury- ing-place of the Murrays of Cally, near Gatehouse. Two fine sculptured stones of the W. Highland type lie neglected in the ch. -yd. Whithorn is the birthplace of John Ramsay Macculloch, author of the " Commercial Dictionary," and of many other valuable works on Poli- tical Economy, etc. St. Ninian's Chajyel, one of the oldest places of Christian Avorship in Scotland, was a small and rude edi- fice. St. Ninian, sometimes called St. Ringan, a Cambrian Briton, and Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer — Ghiiluce. 107 the first bishop of the Southern Picts, landed in Galloway about the end of the 4th centy. He preached the Gospel in these parts, and was buried in the priory of Whithorn ( = Anglo- Sax. Hwit-aern, i.e. white dwelling), otherwise "Candida Casa," because built of stone. He dedicated it to his master, St. Martin of Tours, from whom he had obtained masons to shape its walls after the Roman fashion. " In this ' White House ' the body of St. Ninian had its rest, with the bodies of many other saints, and for ages the place continued to be famous, not only in North Britain, but throughout the Auglo-Saxon kingdoms, and among the races of Ireland. Subsequently the ancient shrine was renowned as a pilgrim- age, whither kings and princes, churchmen and warriors, with people from many realms, came by sea and land to make their devotions." — Robertson. James IV. of Scotland used to make annual pilgrimages to the shrine of St. Ninian, and some- times twice in one year, undertaking the whole jouwiey from Edinburgh on foot. The geologist will find the Isle of Whithorn interesting, as foot- tracks of extinct animals have been discovered in the Lower Silurian rocks. 2 m. to the S.W. of the town is Glasserton, the seat of R. H. J. Stewart, Esq. A Cave called St. Ninians, marked by a cross carved on the rocky walls, exists on the shore close b)^ A road (not very interesting) runs all round the coast from Whithorn to Glenluce, passing 8 m. Port- William, a thriving little harbour close to Monreith, the seat of Sir William Maxwell. Near it is Myrton, where the powerful family of M'Culloch once had a castle on the side of Myrton Loch, of which Boece speaks as "the Great Lake of Mirton, the one-half whereof doth freeze by naturall congelation as other pooles and plashes, but the other is never scene to beare anie yce at all, which unto me dooth seeme to be a greate wonder." It appears that the M'Cullochs were of a somewhat piratical character, and so harassed the unfortunate residents of the Isle of Man that it became a common prayer — " Keep me, my good cows, ray sheep aud my bullocks. From Satan, from sin, and those thievish M'Cullochs." From here it is 13^ m. on to Glenluce.] Kewton Stewart to Stranraer. — Quitting Newton SteAvart, the rly. jmsses left Mcrton Hall, the seat of M. S. Boyd, Esq. (a descendant of the Earl of Kilmarnock who suffered in the rising of 1745), and runs through an uninteresting country to 56 ra. Kirkcowan Stid. On right is Craighlaw (W.C. S.Hamilton, Esq.) The railway gradually ascends into a treeless region of heath. This part of Wigtownshire is bleak and bare, and far from interesting. 64 m. Glenluce Stat., at the head of Luce Bay, 11 m. from which, up the valley of the Luce, are the re- mains of Luce Abbey, founded by Roland, Lord of Galloway, in 1190. When entire it must have been on a very extensive scale. A mass of prostrate masonry rises still upon the site, but a gi-eat part has been re- moved. The foundations of the nave, transepts, and choir remain, encum- bered with rubbish and planted with trees. The gable of the S. transept (E.E.) stands erect, with the E. chapels attached to it. The cloister square still exists, with a range of apartments, including the chapter- house to the E. The latter is vaulted, and has a central pillar, with good bosses and some Dec. windows. Michael Scott, who resided here, is said to have locked up the plague in a vault ; and his books are still buried in the ground. The Luce, which here flows into the sea, is 108 Route 10. — Castle Kennedy — Stranraer. Sect. I. formed by two streams, the Main Water and the Cross Water of Luce, which join at the village of New Luce, 4 or 5 m. higher up, where there is an old rocking-stone called the Laggan-gun. On the promontory of the " Rhinns of Gallowaj^" which can be visited from Glenluce, are various remains of Celtic antiquity, and in the parish of Stoneykirk, two stones, bearing in- scriptions in characters of the 4th centy., to commemorate the death of 3 saints — Florentius, Macarius, and Vincentius — now form the gate-posts of the deserted ch. -yd. of Kirk- maiden. Crossing the Luce by a lofty v^ia- duct, an extensive view is obtained of the bay, the Mull of Galloway, the lighthouse, and the Cumberland Mountains ; on left of the rly. is Castle of Park, the former seat of the Hay family, built in 1590 from the spoils of Glenluce Abbey. It is a good type of the Scotch mansion of the period, and over the entrance we read, " Blessit be the name of the Lord — This verk was begun the first day of March, 159C, be Thomas Hay of Park and Janet MacDouei, his spouse." It is now tenanted by farm servants. There is a fine view of Glenluce Bay from it. 673 ^^- Dunragit Stat., on right of which is Dunragit, the seat of Sir J. Dalrymple Hay, and on left Genoch (C. M'Douall of Logan). On the banks of Soulseat Loch, 1., are slight remains of the Abbey of Soulseat, or " Sedes Animae," founded by Fergus, Lord of Gallo- way, in the 12th centy. 70 m. Castle Kennedy Stat., rt. Within a mile of this stat. is Loch Inch Castle, the noble residence of the Earl of Stair, erected 1870 by the 10th Earl, in the Scotch Gothic style, on a site commanding the two picturesque lochs which form the chief feature of the domain in view of the old castle. In front, on a peninsula, between the Lakes, rise the ivy-clad ruins of Castle, Kennedy, built in the time of James VI., destroyed by fire 1715, long a seat of the Earls of Cassilis. It passed to the Stair family in the 17th cent. The gardens and grounds are liberally open to the public on Wed- nesday and Saturday, and are the most beautiful in this part of the country. The Pinctum especially is the finest in Scotland. This most successful examj)le of landscape-gardening has been created since 1847, by Lord Stair and his skilful gardener Mr. Fowler. A curious range of terraces, part of a former garden, and the ivy- clad ruins of the castle, form inte- resting objects, around which all the newest and most elegant pines have been arranged in groups and groves and avenues with excellent effect. The result is that the Araucaria, Deodar, Pinus nobilis, Insignis Nordmanni- ana, Webbiana, and the Cupressus macrocarpa, and many more, grow liere in full vigour and large masses, whereas in most other places they occur only as single specimens. Passing left Culhorn, a small seat of the Earl of Stair, the train arrives at 72^ m. Stranraer Stat. {Inns : King's Arms ; George ; Meikle's Hotel ; Commercial), a flourishing seaport and Pari, borough (pop. 5941), placed on the strand at the head of the expansive bay of Loch Ryan, and possessing a considerable trade with the north of Ireland and Belfast, with which city it is con- nected by fine Steamers running daily to Larne, a sea-passage of less than 3 hrs. There is a convenient Pier communicating with the rly. In the heart of the town, opposite tlie King's Arms, is a Castle or tower built by the Kennedies. A pretty view of the town and Loch Ryan may be obtained from the heights above the cemetery — Gallows Hill and Spring Bank. Coach to Girvau S. Scotland. Route lOa.— Castle-Douglas to KirJxudhrirjld. 109 Stat. ; Steamers, Glasgow (Ayr), and since 1872, daily, first-class steamers, warranted 16 m. an lir., to Larne, whence rly. to Belfast. Castle Kennedy and the grounds of Loch Inch are 3 m. distant (ad- mission Wed. and Sat.) 6 m. to the N.Yf., between Loch Ryan and tlie Channel, is Loclmaic Castle, the ancient seat of the old family of Agnew, which held the office of hereditary sheriff of Gallo- way down to the abolition of heri- table jurisdictions, 1747. The monu- ment on the hill is to the late Sir Andrew A. [A road to the S. leads to the Mull of Galloicay, passing 3^ m. Garthland Tower, once the seat of the M'Doualls, Lords of Galloway. 5 m. the village of Stoneykirk, 7 m. Balgreggan, 10 m. Ardwell House (Mrs. Ommaney M'Taggart), Logan (J. M'Douall, Esq. ), where under the cliffs is a singular sea- fish preserve or pond accessible to the tides, and filled with great cod and other fi^h, some of them so tame as to come at the keeper's call and receive food out of the hand ; and 1 5 m. Kirkmaiden. Near Ardwell is Killeser, formerly belonging to the M 'Cullochs, skirting the shore of Luce Bay to Drummore, where is a little Inn, 3 m. from the lighthouse- The sea cliffs are 150 to 200 ft. high. From the point of the Mull, upon which is the light- house (5 m. beyond), a good view may be obtained of the coasts of England and Ireland on the left and right, and the hills of the Isle of Man in front.] 80 m. Portpatrick, formerly called Port Montgomerie. The town is a poor little place, but is the nearest point on the Scottish coast to Ireland — only 21 m. distant. The harbour and pier were constructed by Kennie at a cost of £200,000, but, not prov- ing convenient, the mail service between Portpatrick and Donag- hadee has been discontinued. From Portpatrick the submarine telegraph wire is carried across the channel. 1 m. to the S. are the ruins of Dunskei/ Castle, standing on a rocky cliff pierced with many caves, which pro- jects into the sea. There is fine rugged cliff scenery along the coast line near this. ROUTE 10a. Castle-Douglas to Kirkcudbright — Dundrennan Abbey — Gate- house of Fleet— Anwoth. Castle- Douglas is in Ete. 10. Railway to Kirkcudbright, 10 m., trains daily in 4 hr., crossing the Dee near Threave Bridge, to Bridge of Dee Stat. The country is very picturesque, though it can- not be said to exhibit any striking features. 8 m. ( Tarff Stat. ) At Tongueland the river Dee is crossed by an old bridge of 2 arches, and a little lower down by another bridge of 1 arch of 112 ft. span, built of Arran freestone, from plans by Telford. The view from Tongueland Hill is very charming, embracing the towns of Kirkcud- bright, St. Mary's Isle, the island Little Ross, with the Irish Channel, and, on a clear day, the hills of the Isle of Man. Near Tongueland Ch. is the site of the Abbey founded by Fergus, Lord of Gallowa}^, in the 12th centy. Below the bridge the Dee is joined by the Tarff, at the confluence of which is Compstone House (S. Maitland, Esq.) and the old Castle of Compstone, where the poet Mont- gomery once resided. The Dee rises in Loch Dee, in the W, of the county of Kirkcudbright, and flows E. to join the Ken at the S. end of Loch Ken, between Castle-Douglas and New Galloway. From this point the two rivers merge in the Dee, which now flows to the S., and assumes all the wild beauty of a Highland stream. It is a good fish- ing-river, though it L'3 somewhat 110 Route 1 Oa. — Kirkcudbright. Sect. I. difficult to obtain leave from the various proprietors. The neighbour- ing lochs abound in trout, pike, and perch. 11 m. Kirkcudbright Stat., pro- nounced Kircoobrie (Inns : Royal, good ; Commercial), Pop. 2464. A Pari, borough and clean town of wide streets, on the Dee, here crossed by an irpn bridge, and accessible for sea-going steamers. The " Kirk of Cuthbert," so called because that saint's bones reposed here for a time during their wanderings, is a pleasant little town, and the head of the Stewartry. The kirk from which it takes its name was founded in the 8th centy. At the end of the prin- cipal street are the ivy-covered ruins of the old Castle of the M'Lellans, barons of Kirkcudbright, built in 1582. It is very plain and square, and of no beauty in itself, but looks well as the termination of the street. The Establislied Ch. is a handsome building. The old ch. was pulled down, with the exception of a frag- ment that contains a monument to a Lord Kirkcudbriglit, which title has been extinct since 1832. A Court-house for county business was built in 1867. About Ih m. to the S. is St. Mary's Isle, now no longer an island, but a peninsula, stretching into the estuary of the Dee, and occupied by the grounds and dark Avoods of the Earl of Selkirk, Through green vistas of beech trees fine views of the sea appear. Here is an old herom-y containing many hundred birds, which are care- fully guarded from intrusion. Paul Jones' Point, at the end of the tongue of land, commemorates a raid made b)'' that daring pirate, 1778, in the hope of carrying off the Earl, who was, luckily for himself, away from home. The pirate, however, looted the plate ; and a silver teapot, which was returned by him on the remon- strance of Benjamin Franklin, is still in possession of the family. His father was gardener at the Isle. A nunnery was founded here in the reign of David I., and some portions of it are embodied in the plain sash- windowed modern house. The grounds contain a cut-leaved alder, the finest in the country, and good Conifers. An agreeable excursion may be made to Dundrennan Abbey, 6 m. to the E., and about 2 m. from the coast. The road thither passes a Roman camp, and the site of Bombie Castle, ^the early residence of the M'Lellans. A part of the way is lined by hawthorn hedges, which grow most luxuriantly here, and gave to the place the name of ' ' Dun- drinnan" (hill of thorns). The Abbey stands at the head of a pretty valley 1 m. long, running down from the village of Dundrennan to the sea. It has a humble Bin, with one clean bedroom, and a Gothic kirk, built 1865, Dundrennan Abbey was the last place at which Mary Queen of Scots slept before her embarkation for England. She wrote a letter to Queen Elizabeth hence, May 15th, 1568. Indeed, the very spot where she took boat is pointed out, and to this day goes by the name of Port Mary. The district of Rerwick is bold and rock}'^, and supplied the scenery of " Ellangowan," in Sir Walter Scott's " Guy Mannering." The abbey was built in 1142, by King David, or, as some say, by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, for Cis- tercian monks, brought from Rie- vaulx, in Yorkshire. On entering the W. door, which is early pointed, it will be seen that the AVhole of the nave and choir (E. wall) have disappeared, together with the tower, the clois- ters, and almost all the chapter- house. The materials have been re- moved to build the village, and several of the stones may be recog- nised in the houses, and particularly in the Manse. Further dilapidations S. Scotland. Boute 10a. — Dundrennan Ahhey ; Calhj. Ill are now arrested by the Commis- sioners of AVoods. On the W. are the cellars, and the garden entrance. The present remains of the church, built of picturesque grey stone, con- sist of the N. and S. transepts, each with a roofless aisle, on the E. side, and the N. and S. walls of the chancel. The arches of the S. tran- sept stand perfect and are pointed, while the windows of the chancel, and those of the clerestoiy in the transept, are circular. The most beautiful fragment is upon the S. side of the ch. This was the en- trance to the chapter-house, and consists of a pointed Gothic door- way, flanked on each side by a double window. Within this entrance are the stumps of 4 pillars which sup- ported the roof. In the aisle of tha N. transept is the monument of Alan, Lord of Gal- loway, grandson of the reputed founder, and Constable of Scotland in 1233. The figure is clothed in mail, the legs have long ago dis- appeared. From the high gi'ound above the Abbey a fine view is obtained. On the 1. is a range of hills, the highest peak of which is Cairn Skreel, 1425 feet, ending in Cairn hill, so called from the cairn on its summit. To the S., across the water, is seen the coast of Cumberland, with Skiddaw and Helvellyn in the background ; and on the extreme right are the dark- blue hills of the Isle of J^Ian. A coach goes twice a day from Kirkcudbright to (8 m.) Gateliousc-of- Fleet {Inn : * Murray Arms, very good). A prettily situated town, which rose into a brief prosperity owing to a cotton-mill being estab- lished here at the end of last centy., but which stopped in 1858, and the town subsided into torpidity. Its nucleus was the old inn at the end of the avenue leading to Cally, seat of H. G. ilurray Stewart, Esq., and hence its name. Cally is a stately mansion of granite, with a portico of columns, each a single shaft. The lofty Hall, lined with pi-ecious marbles, cost £50,000 alone. Cally is approached through shady groves and avenues of lofty beech, and is backed by gardens and grounds of great beauty. Many rare pines (C. Lambertiana, 40 ft. high). It is one of the finest places in these parts. Strangers can see the grounds Tuesday and Thursday. Extensive views from Gatehouse Hill and the Bar Hill. On the opposite side of the Fleet water is Anivoth Ch., field of the ministry of the Rev, Saml. Euther- ford — to whose memory the granite obelisk was erected 1842 on the hill. "Rutherford's Walk" is the scene of the memorable interview between him and Archbp, Usher, who came over from Ireland to see him, (See Dean Stanley s "Scottish Church,")! The tourist may rejoin the r\j. at Creetown by following the coast road, a very pleasant one, from Gatehouse, commanding good views of the opposite coast of Wigtown, The distance is 12 m, Anwoth Ch, and monument lie on right, Car- doness Castle and house (Sir W. Maxwell) are passed. At PMvenshaM, about half-way, there is a roadside inn with fair accommodation. The coast is bold and rocky, and con- tains some interesting caverns. The largest of them is supposed to have given Sir W. Scott the substance of his description of Dirk Hatteraick's cave. It can only be reached by a rough walk along the rocky shore, and entered only at low water. Within is a large apartment, the sides of which are hollowed out into "bins " for the storing of spiiits and contra- band goods, Not far from Ravens- hall is Carslouth Castle, a ruin picturesquely placed on the edge of the cliff, from whence a flight of steps descends to the water. Its features correspond to the description of EUangowan in " Guy Maunering." 112 Route 11. — Stranraer to Ayr, Sect. I. Sir Walter Scott derived his know- ledge of this district from Mr. Train, a very intelligent revenue officer re- siding at ISTewton Stewart. Over- looking a narrow stream is Kirkdale House (Major F. Rainsford-Hannay). Granite quarries are opened on the shore, and are provided with a pier for shipment of the stone about 1 m. S. of Creetown. A steep ascent of rather more than a mile leads to Creetown Stat. (Rte. 20). EOUTE 11. Stranraer to Ayr, by Ballantrae, Girvan, and Maybole. A coach leaves Stranraer every day for Girvan, 30 m. Thence to Ayr, 22 m., Railway ; trains in 1 hr. The coast scenery from Glen App to Ballantrae and Girvan is remark- ably fine. For the first 10 m. the road skirts the eastern shores of Loeh Pi,yan, running at the foot of a plateau of bleak moors. It was the Rericonius Sinus of the Romans, the presumed station of Rericonium being passed at 2 1 m. from Stranraer. Earth- works visible at this spot are called the Mote. On the bank overlooking it are the ruins of Craigcaffic Castle, the fortress of the Nelsons in the 13th centy. The foundation-stones are said to have been laid on bags of wool on account of the boggy nature of the ground. 6^ m. on the W. shore of the Loch, opposite Cairn Ryan, whose shales yield graptolites, are the vil- lage of Kirkcolm and the grounds of Corsewall (J. Carrick-Moore, Esq.) The ruins of the ancient castle of Corseivall lie 4 m. to the N.W., near Corsewall Point (Lighthouse). Close to Cairn Point is Loch Ryan, the seat of Sir Wm. Agnew-Wallace, a de- scendant of the family of which the famous Sir William was a member. The castellated architecture here is in the worst possible taste. At 8^ m. the Galloway Burn is crossed, and the traveller enters Ayrshire. 10 m. , at Finnart Bay, which is nearly opposite JMilleur Point, the extreme end of the Rhinns of Gallo- ivay (the hilly ridge which forms the backbone of the promontory), the road leaves the sea-coast and turns up the picturesque and finely wooded Glen Ajjp, quitting it (14 m.) at the base of Carlock-hill, 1054 ft., and taking a direction due IST. past the handsome modern seat of Js. Hunter, Esq., in a fine position overlooking the sea, in an estate of 8580 acres, to 18 m. Ballantrae {Inn: King's Arms, small but tidy), a small fish- ing port at the mouth of the Stin- char, a considerable stream crossed I by a bridge. Above it is a crust of Castle Arclstinchar, which once com- manded the pass out of Galloway. The scenery in Glen Tig, and up the Stinchar towards the village of Col- monell, 54 ra., is very pretty. Between the latter place and Bal- lantrae is Knockdolian, the seat of A. Cathcart, Esq. The road from Ballantrae to Girvan closely hugs the coast, which in many parts is exceedingly bold, with ro- mantic cliff's, particularly at Bennane Head. The tourist obtains a succes- sion of grand sea-views, in which Ailsa Craig is a prominent object. At Lendalfoot, about half-way, the cliff's are fine and bold, the trap rock assuming fantastic shapes, arches, etc., and are covered with creeping vegetation, and especially at Games- loup. The marine spleenwort grows here. The ruined tower of Carletoii Castle is the scene of the ballad of " May Cullean." Here lived a baron who had a habit of frequently marry- ing and becoming tired of his Avives, whom he despatched by pushing them from the top of the cliflTs. Seven had already gone this way, when May Cullean, the eighth wife, Ayrshire. Route \l. — Stranraer to Ayr : Girvan ; Ailsa. 113 appeared on the scene, and was led out on to the rocks to perform the same ceremony. Requesting the baron to turn away his head while she took off her apparel, she adroitly managed to push him over instead. " 'O turn j'e then about, Sir John, And look to the leaf of the tree, For it never became a gentleman A naked woman to see ! ' He turned himself straight round about. To look to the leaf of the tree ; She has twined her arms around his waist. And thrown him into the sea." 30 m. Girvan Stat. {Inn: King's Arms, good), a dull but neat town, 5921 inhab., at mouth of the Girvan water, consisting of one long street, at N. end of which is the rly. stat. It is situated on the edge of a small detached coalfield, which gives occu- pation to the people. Sheltered under a wooded hill lies (24 m. S.W.) Ardmillan House (Lord Ard- millan). Distances: Ballantrae, 12 m. ; Ayr, 22; Stranraer, 30; Turnberry (Jastle, 6 ; Maybole, 12|. The Fuiihoay from Girvan to A}t, 22 m., takes an inland course to Maybole, so that the tourist is shut out from the places of interest on the coast. Some may prefer, therefore, to follow the coast-road, but it is very hilly and not well kept. [Girvan is the most suitable place for making a water excursion to Ailsa Craig, which rises grandly about 10 m. out at sea. It is 1100 ft. in height, and 2 m. in circum- ference at the base. From this side it appears to be spherical, but from N. and S. it would seem to be p}Ta- midal, and on the W. to be rect- angular. It is in reality shaped like a wedge, and is perpendicular towards the AV., while it slopes gradually away to the E. , on which side alone it is accessible. Ailsa can be ap- proached only when the wind is favourable, a landing is then easy, but the narrow path up at places {Scotland. ] winds round the edge of the pre- cipice. Upon the summit are the ruins of a tower. The Craig is inha- bited by one human family, besides goats, rabbits, and great quantities of sea-fowl. The beauty of the cliffs of Ailsa is little knoAvn, as it fronts to the W., on which side the columnar cliffs rise to a height of 400 ft. The columns, from 6 ft. to 9 ft. in dia- meter, differ from those of Staffa in being of grey syenite, not of basalt.] The geologist will find fossiliferous rocks of lower Silurian as well as of carboniferous age in the neighbour- hood of Girvan. The former are seen to the S. of the Girvan Water, occupying the high ground extend- ing from Dailly to Asselburn, Aldone, and the sea ; while the latter form an isolated patch on both sides of the river. Silurian fossils may also be obtained at the quarries of Craig's Head and Mulloch Hill, on the N. side of the Girvan AVater, between Girvan and Dailly. The rly. follows the course of the Girvan river through a valley of pleasing character in places, espe- cially near 3 m, Killochan Stat., near which are Killochan Castle (Sir J. Cath- cart). On a hill near Killochan is the Baron Stone, a giant boulder of granite, which, like the thousand others strewing the ground, has been brought from the source or Eye of the Girvan, which is in a granite basin. 6 m. In Dailly ch. -yard is the grave of J. B. Collis, who was buried 23 days in a coal-pit, was dug out alive, but survived only 3 days. In the neighbourhood is Dalquharran Castle (Right Hon. T. F. Kennedy). From this stat, it is 8 m. left to Turnherry Castle {sec page 115). 8 1 m. Kilkerran Stat. On the slopes of the opposite bank of the Girvan is Kilkerran, the seat of Sir J. Fergusson, and Bargany (Countess F 2 114 Route 11. — Mayhole ; Crossraguel. Sect. I. of stair, Duchess de Coigny), in a pretty park. 12i m. Mayhole Stat. {Inn : King's Arms), a place of some historical im- portance as the capital of the lonety, hilly cattle-feeding district called Carrick, the domain of the Braces. Here the Lord Cassilis, the hereditary bailie, and other local magnates, had their town mansions, and held their courts in the olden times. Mayhole still retains two buildings of interest — the Tolbooth, which has some Gothic details, and was the old town residence of the Kennedies of Blairquhan, who had their principal castle at Straiton — and the Tower or Cattle (now restored, and the abode of Lord Ailsa's factor), was the resi- dence of the Bailie of Carrick. This was the scene of the ballad of "Johnnie Faa, " the gipsy, Avho, ac- cording to the story (which is proved to be untrue), eloped with the lady of the 6th Earl of Cassilis. "The gipsies cam to our gude lord's yett, And O, but they sang sweetly ; They sang sae sweet and sae very com- plete That doun cam the fair ladie. And she cam tripping doun the stair, And a' her maids before her ; As soon as they saw her weel-faired face They cuist the glamour ower her." Within the ruins of the Old Church is the burying-place of tlie Ailsa family. l\\ the old Red Lion Lm took place the meniorable theological contest in 1561, of 3 days' duration, betAveen John Knox and the Abbot of Crossraguel, Quentin Kennedy. There is a fine view from Bennan Hill. The festival of shooting at the Popinjay was kept iip till a very few years ago. Here is the large agricultural implement manufactory of Jack and Co. Mayhole was the residence of Kennedy of Cullayne, who was dia- bolically murdered by Mure of Auchendrane, one of the most dan- gerous and bloodthirsty men of his time, scrupling not to assassinate anybody whom he had reason to envy or fear. For this last offence, however, he was brought to trial with his son, and executed in 1611, The story has been dramatised by Sir W. Scott in his "Ayrshire Tragedy." "Ay, 'tis an old belief in Camck here. Whose natives do not always die in bed, That a a Kennedy shall not attain Methuselah's last span, a Mure has slain him." [About 2 m. from Maybole, on the Kirkoswald-road, are the picturesque remains of the Abbey of Crossraguel, founded previous to 1240 by David, Earl of Carrick, for Cluniac monks from Paisley. A large portion of the buildings are still standing, and form a curious mixture of " the half bai'onial, half ecclesiastical construc- tion." The'ch. consisted of a nave without aisle or transept, and a chan- cel, divided by a wall, and terminated at the E. by an apsidal end of 3 sides. At the S.E. is a handsome tomb with 4 canopied arches. The chai^ter- house, retaining its vaulted roof, supported on light piers, has very handsome Avindows, and is evidently the most modern part of the whole. To the W. of the chapter-house is a square, in which the cloisters can easily be traced, and beyond this was the refectory. At the S.E. corner of the ch., built upon an arch spanning a stream that runs through the gai'dens, Avas the Abbot's house. To the W. of the Avhole is the entrance by a grand turreted gatehouse.] [Another excursion of 6^ m. may be made to the little fishing and bathing place of Dunure, Avhich has a harbour cut out of the solid rock, by Abercrombie, the engineer, at an expense of £50,000. It is, hoAvever, too small for any practical purpose. Here, overlooking the sea, is the solitary fragment of Dunure Castle, once the seat of the Kennedies, but dismantled in the middle of the 1 7th centy. ] Ayrshire. Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow — Culzean. 115 [The coast-7'oacl from Girvan keeps the shore pretty closely for 6 m, to the ruins of Turnberry Castle, of which the principal portion now standing consists of a piece of masonry about 30 ft. above the sea, to which there was a subterranean passage from the castle. There is also a little masonry among the rocks Avhich formed the foundation of the Castle, but so built into the crevices that it is difficult to distin- guish between art and nature. Turnberry was in former times the seat of the Earls of Carrick, and was occupied by Martha, Countess of Carrick, who married, in 1274, Robert Bruce, Earl of Annandale. The eldest son of this marriage was the great Robert Bruce, who was probably born in it, and who is re- presented in the " Lord of the Isles " as seizing the castle in his first de- scent from Arran. It is more pro- bable, however, that it did not fall into his hands till after the battle of Bannockburn. It had been arranged that a fire should be lighted at Turn- berry to give a signal to Bruce that the favourable moment for the de- scent had arrived. When the signal was seen at nightfall, Bruce landed only to find that the fire had not been lighted by any one of his party, and that the castle was occupied by a strong English force of Earl Percy (1306). So mysterious was the oc- currence that it was believed to be of supernatural origin. *' Now ask j'ou whence that wondrous light Whose fairy glow beguiled their sight ? It ne'er was known — yet greyhair'd eld A superstitious credence held, That never did a mortal hand Wake its broad glare on Carrick's strand ; Nay, and that on the selfsame night, When Bruce crossed o'er, still gleams the light." — Lord of the Isles. " To the S. of the castle is the ' Wearij Nuik,' a little romantic green hill where Bruce and his party are said to have rested after assault- ing the castle." 1 m. N. E. of Turnberry is the farm of Slimiter, once the residence of Douglas Grahame, the original of "Tam o'Shanter." " Here Burns, Avhen 19 years old, studied mensuration and 'first be- came acquainted with scenes of swaggering and riot. ' The then occu- pier of Shanter Avas, by all accounts, just what the Tarn of the poet ap- pears — a jolly, careless rustic, who took much more interest in the con- traband traffic of the coast than in the rotation of crops. Burns knew the man well — and to his dying day, he, nothing loth, passed among his rural compeers by the name of ' Tarn o' Shanter.'" — Lockhart's "Life of Burns." The tourist can proceed from hence to Maybole inland, through Kirkos- %cald village and Crossraguel, about 5 m. In the ch. -yd. of Kirkoswald is the grave of Tam and his "ain wife Kate," with the epitaph — " She tauld thee weel thou was a skellum, A bleth'ring, blust'ring, drunken blellum. " Overlooking the coast, 3 m. to the N. of Turnberry, is Culzean Castle (pronounced Colyean), the modern Gothic castle of the JVIarquis of Ailsa, built 1777 by David 10th Earl of Cassilis. It contains a fine Armoury. It is not open to visitors, and no view can be obtained of it from this side ; but it is a beautiful object from the sea, on the very edge of which it stands. On the land side are the terrace -gardens of the old house, re- moved to make way for its grand successor. At the foot of the rock on which the castle stands are the Coves of Culzean, three caves hewn in the rock, which have been used as hiding-places during the civil wars, and aff'orded a refuge to Sir Archibald Kennedy after the Re- volution. According to Burns they were the fairies' place of resort on Halloween. " Or for Colean the rout is ta'en, Beneath the moon's pale beams ; 116 Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow. Sect. I. There, up the Cove, to stray an' rove, Amang the rocks an' streams To sport that night." Burns's " Hallowe'en." Culzean has been, ever since the 15th centy., in the hands of the Kennedies, Earls of Cassilis, who played an important- part in the history of the times, and had such power that it gave rise to the popular rhyme — " 'Twixt "Wigtown and the town of Ayr, Portpatrick and the Cruives of Cree, No man may think for to bide there. Unless he court Saint Kennedie." From Culzean it is 4 m. to May- bole Stat. Continuing by rail from Maybole, 15 m. Cassilis Stat. On right is seen Cassilis House, another seat of the Marquis of Ailsa. In the grounds are the " Cassilis Downans," men- tioned by Burns in his " Hallowe'en" as the resort of fairies. 17 m. Dalrym2)Ie Junct. Stat, the village Ipng about a mile to the right, and on the banks of the Doon, which the rly. crosses soon after leaving Cassilis. The Dalmellington branch rly. runs in here, and the traveller soon reaches 214 ra. Ayr Stat. {Inn : King's Arms) Ete. 12. ROUTE 12. Ayr to Glasgow, by Troon, Kilwinning, Ardrossan, Pais- ley [Dalmellington and Loch Doon]. Ayr {Inns : King's Arms ; Com- mercial) is a pleasant seaport and borough of nearly 17,853 inhab., situated on the coast, at the em- bouchure of the Water of Ayr, which is crossed by a coujile of bridges connecting the town with the suburbs of Newtown and Wallacetown. Al- though it dates its rise as far back as 1205, when it was made a borough by William the Lion, it has kept pace with the improvements of the times, and exhibits well-built broad streets, and pleasant suburban roads fringed with villas and country houses. As regards trade, it is inferior to Kilmarnock in manufactures and to Troon in shipping prosperity, but Ayr founds its claims to importance more on its social distinctions as a provincial capital and its associa- tions with the two national cele- brities, Wallace and Burns, the latter of whom describes it as " Auld Ayr, whom ne'er a toun surpasses For honest men and bonnie lasses." . There was an old castle here on the left bank of the Ayr, a little way below the New Bridge, of which no- thing remains, but the site is believed to be the same on which Oliver Cromwell built one of his 5 forts or bastiles to overawe the West Country, 1652. The Old Church was partly built by Cromwell, in lieu of that of St. John the Baptist, a large pile near the shore, which he seized upon and converted into an armoury, at the same time that he included it within the fort. The tower of that ch., with part of the magazine, is still standing ; the former has been turned into a dwell- ing-house. It was in the Dominican convent which occupied the site of this ch. that the parliament assem- bled in 1315 which settled the suc- cession upon Robert Bruce and his heirs. The Wallace Tower in the High- street is one of the most conspicu- ous, if not the most tasteful, objects in Ayr, being 133 ft. in height. It was built in 1832 upon the site of a very old to^^"er, in which Wallace is said to have been confined, and over the walls of which he was let down by his friends to escape from the Southrons. A niche m front con- tains a statue of Wallace by James Thom, an artist of local fame. The lower storey is a whisky shop. In Wellington Square is a statue S.Scotland. Boute 12. — Ayr: Alloivay Kirk. 117 of the Indian Gen. Neill, who was a native of Ayr. It is the work of Mr, Noble, is 10 ft. high, and placed on a pedestal of Dalbeattie gi'anite, which bears an inscription describing him as "a brave, resolute, self-reliant soldier, universally acknowledged as the hrst who stemmed the tide of rebellion in Bengal." Below the inscription is the representation of his death, which took i^lace at the relief of Lucknow, 25th Sept. 1857. The same square contains the County Buildinrjs, designed after the model of the Temple of Isis, Rome. The Town Buildings at the corner of High and Sandgate Streets are con- spicuous for their lofty steeple and spire. Thanks to Eobert Burns's facetious " Dialogue," no public buildings are more celebrated than the Tica Brigs of A}T, of which the " Auld Brig, " now used only as a footway from the High Street, was built in the latter part of the 13th centy. by two old maids of the name of Lowe. For 500 years "the auld vandal" satis- fied the wants of Ayr, though but " A poor, narrow footpath of a street, Where twa wheelbarrows tremble when they meet." The New Bridge, lower down, nearer the harbour, was built in 1788, from designs by Adam. The abutments of the arches being adorned with alle- gorical figures, this uncalled-for de- coration roused the ire of the " Auld Brig," who says — "I dout na, frien', ye'll think ye're nae sheepshank, Ance ye were streekit owre frae bank to bank ! ; But gin ye be a brig as auld as me, Tlio' faith, that day, I doubt, ye'll never There'll be, if that date come, I'll wad a boddle, ' Some fewer whigmaleeries in your noddle." The " drowsy dungeon clock" was taken down in 1826. Railways to Ardrossan, 19^ m. ; Glasgow, 41 ; Girvan, 22 ; and Dal- mellington, 15 m. Steamer to Glasgow in 8 hrs., and to Stranraer. Excursions from, Ayr : — a. Alloway and Brig o' Doon, 3 m. h. Mauchline, 11 m., and Coils- field. c. Dalmellington and Loch Doon. d. Dunure and Greenan. a. The main attractions for the thousands of tourists who visit the town are Alloivay Kirk, Burns's Mrth'place, and monument, and the Brig o' Boon, which lie 3 m. to the S. At the top of High Street or Townhead, near the rlv. stat. , 2 roads fork off. Take the road to the left on quitting the railway station. This is the direction in which " Tam o' Shanter " proceeded after he had left the public-house in Ayr. It is not exactly the same road, for it has been somewhat straightened, and some localities mentioned in his ride are now at some distance from it. Just before arriving at left Rozelle (Mr. Smith) the road crosses a stream, over which, a little distance from the "... the ford Where in the snaw the chapman smoor'd." And on right is the cottage in the garden of which is "... the meikle stane, Where drucken Charlie brak's neck bane." Rt. is Cambusdoon (Jas. Baird, Esq.), formerly the property of Lord Nigel Kennedy, prettily seated on the bank of the Doon. 2 m. right is a row of cottages, in one of which Burns was born on the 25th Jan. 1759. It was originally a " clay bigging," rebuilt by the poet's father with his own hands. On the night of his birth a storm came on, part of his mother's cottage fell in, and she and her child were forced to take shelter in that of a neighbour until their own had been repaired. This interesting structure has now been turned by its enterprising pro- prietors (the shoemakers of Ayr) into IIJ Boute 12. — Allow aij ; Mauchline. Sect. I. a public-lionse ; and behind it a saloon has been built for the sancti- fication of national genius and the consumption of national liquor. (The lower storey of the Wallace memorial is devoted to the same purpose. ) 24 m. right, opposite the new florid Gothic Church of AUoway, a flight of steps, worn by the feet of jDilgrims by the thousand, leads over a wall to " Alloway's auld haunted kirk," now reduced to 4 bare walls, two of them gabled and surmounted by a bell-cote, Avhich in Burns's day served as a village ch. Here Tarn o' Shanter was the witness of the witches' hellish orgies. Within the ch.-yd., amongst a crowd of other forefathers of the hamlet, Burns's father is buried. Opposite the old kirk the new one rather stares the old ruins out of countenance ; and beyond it, in a garden overlooking the Doon, is Burns's Monument, built in 1820, at a cost of £3350. It is a circular temj)le, sujiported by 9 fluted Cor- inthian columns, emblematic of the 9 Muses. In the interior are pre- served a copy of the best edition of the poet's works, a bust and copy of the portrait of him by Nasmyth (the best ever executed), and a Bible said to be the one presented by him to "Highland Mary" at their last interview. A staircase leads to the temple, whence a pretty view is ob- tained of the surrounding scenery. In a grotto at the end of the garden are the figures of " Tam o' Shanter " and "Souter Johnnie," by James Thom, the sculptor of Wallace's statue — specimens of caricature of little value as works of art. There is much bad taste in all this cockney- fied homage to the poet : the real interest lies in the beauty of the spot, the hanks of the Doon contrast- ing pleasantly with the rather mono- tonous country around Ayr. Let the tourist descend to the stream of the Doon, just above the two bridges, one, comparatively new, the other the " Auld Brig," of one slim arch, to "win the keystone" of which was the utmost effort of Meg in her flight from the witches, for as Tam well knew, "A running stream tbey dare na' cross." By the side of a small tributary of the Doon, in the garden of Doonbrae cottage, is the thorn on which " Mungo's mither hang'd hersel." There is an Inn (]\lonument) be- tween the two bridges, the garden of which runs down to the river, and contains a shell grotto. [A short distance up the Doon is Newark Castle, on a shoulder of Brown Oarrick Hill, 917 ft. It has been almost rebuilt by the Marquis of Ailsa. Higher up, on the right bank is Doonholm, the seat of Sir Colin Blackburn ; and a little to the E. is Mount Olipkant farm, once rented by Burns's father, and where the poet received his early education. From this point another mile will bring the pedestrian to Dalrijmjjle Stat. (Rte. 11), from whence he may return to Ayr. ] The traveller may return from Brig 0' Doon to Ayr by a diff"erent and prettier road, on the left side of the Doon, crossing the new and afterwards the Low Bridge over that sti'eam, and skirting Ayr Race Course. [h. To Mauchline (11 m.), on the road to which the traveller meets with scenes of great beauty on the banks of the Water of Ayr, Avhich are frequently embellished with charm- ing seats and residences, such as Gad- girth (Major-Gen. F. C.Burnett,R.A.), near which the picturesque stream of the Coil joins the Ayr, and Auchen- cruive (R. A. Oswald, Esq.), in the grounds of which still exists the Laig- land Wood, where it is said Wallace lay hid before burning the Barns of S. Scotland. Pioute 1 2. — Dahnellington ; Loch Doon. 1 1 9 Ayr. On the S. bank of the former river is Sundriim (the very ancient seat of J. Hamilton, Esq.) In the neighbourhood of Dalmore, where there is a bridge, the Ayr runs through a romantic glen bordered by. high banks, increasing in beauty till it arrives at Coilsficld, where the little river Faile runs in. The scenery here is still further enriched by the woods of Mont- gomerie (W. Paterson, Esq.), where Burns wrote his touching poem : — " Ye banks and braes and streams around The castle o' ^lontgoniery. Green be your woods and fair your flowers, Your waters never dnnnlie ! There simmer first unfaulds her robes. And there thej' langest tany ; For there I took the last fareweel O' my sweet Highland Mary." About- a couple of miles to the N.W., near the village of Tarbolton, Burns lived on his father's farm at Lochlea. Spittalside farm was the residence of David Sillar, the poet's friend and correspondent. The antiquary will find opposite Montgomerie some well-preserved Roman trenches, and, near the farm oflSces, the supposed grave of Coil or Kyle, king of the Britons, who was killed in a battle with the Picts. It certainly was a burying-place, for, on being opened in 1837, it was found to contain several urns and burnt bones. From Montgomerie to Mauchline it is 3 m. (Rte. 9).] [c. To Dcdmellingfon by rail. The branch leaves the main line near Dalrymple Stat. (Rte. 11). 4 m., turning off to the left and crossing a small stream that joins the Doon from Loch Martnaham, a consider- able sheet of water 2 m. in length. 6 m. at Hollyhush Stat., the rly. approaches the banks of the Doon, and from thence keeps alongside of it for the remainder of its course. At 10 m. Patna, the hills begin to close in, and ironworks and pits to show themselves. I 12 m. Water side, to the right of which, extending for several miles, is the dreary moorland plateau of Keir's Hill, 1005 ft, 15 m. DalmeUington Stat., a town of 1299 inhab., dependent on the DalmeUington Iron Co. (Messrs. Houldsworth), who have 5 furnaces here. It is neat and compact, and is situated about | m. from the Doon, and overhung by a lofty Mote hill. The principal attraction in the neighbourhood is the scenery of the romantic narrow glen called the A^'ess, leading to Loch Bomi, which lies 4 m. to the S., and from which issues the Doon. The owner of these beautiful grounds, permits visitors (except on Sunday) to skirt the river for the whole dis- tance. Loch Boon is one of the largest lakes in the south of Scot- land, From the foot of Ness Glen to the Loch head, Avhere the Gala Lane flows into it, it is 5h m. in length, though seldom above I m. in breadth. The scenery is tame, ex- cept near the head of the loch, where the Wee Hill of Craigmulloch, 1381 ft, and the Black Craig, 1730 ft., rise up directly from the water's edge. On an islet underneath Craig- mulloch are the ruins of Loch Doon Castle, Avhich appears to have been of soine importance in the 14th cent. The lake is a tolerable fishing locality for trout, which, however, are small, only averaging about 4 or 5 to the pound. The innkeeper at DalmeUington will provide a boat, and give every information. The pedestrian will find a path skirting the lake the whole distance to the head on the W. side, and, if a geolo- gist, should notice the striated rocks and boulders on its shores, exhibiting the effects of glacial action. The country to the S. of Loch Doon is exceedingly wild, and almost untrodden, save by the shep- herd or the sportsman. Two lofty and rugged ranges of hills run 120 Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow — Prestwkk Sect. I. nearly due S. towards the coast of Kirkcudbright, giving rise to the northern rivers of the Gala, Carrick, and Stinchar, and to the southern ones of the Dee, Carsphairn, Cree, Minuoch, and others, which find tlieir way into the Solway Firth. The most westerly of these hills is the Merrick range, the highest point of which is 2764 ft. Underneath their stern and savage escarpments lies Loch Enoch, at an elevation of 1650 ft, together with some smaller tarns, encompassed by a wild entourage of hills and rocks, which will well repay the scenery- loving pedestrian, who can, without much difficulty, ascend the stream of the Gala from Loch Doon to Loch Enoch, the distance being about 6 m. To the E. of Loch Enoch is a mountain valley watered by the Cooran Lane, which issues from the little loch of the Dungeon, and soon joins the Dee. Then still farther E. rises the Kells range, the highest point of which, Meikle Millyca, is 2446 ft. It is a pity that this ro- mantic district is not better known, as at present the utter want of ac- commodation precludes any but very good walkers attempting it.] d. Dunure and Greenan (Ete. 11). e. Maybole (Rte. 11). Ayr to Glasgow — FmU. From Ayr Junct. the rail to Glasgow runs due N"., crossing the river, and passing rt. Craigie House (R. F. F. Campbell, Esq. ) 1^ m. are the ruins of Kingsivell, an hospital founded for lepers by Eobert Bruce, who is said to have been cured of lepro.sy by di-inking the waters. 3 m. Prestwick Stat. This town (on right of rly.) was the property of the Abbey of Paisley. The Scot- tish game of golf is keenly pursued on the extensive links at this place. As the line winds along the shore of A}T Bay the traveller will, if it is tolerably clear, get good views of the opposite coast of Arran, with Goat- fell and the hills of Bute. 4 J m. Monkton Stat. Soon after leaving Monkton the rly. passes right Fullarton House, a seat of the Duke of Portland, and in 1801 the residence of Louis Philippe, King of the French. 6^ m. Troon Junct. Stat. {Inns : Portland ; Hotel ; Commercial), 2427 inhab., is a thriving seaport, with good harbour, and warehouses to correspond. In fact it is the ship- ping port of Ayrshire, from whence a veiy large quantity of Scotch coal is exported to Ireland. It is also a quiet watering-place, particularly popular with excursionists from Kil- marnock. It stands on a neck of land projecting into the bay, at the end of which is a lighthouse. 3 m. on right is Dunclonald Castle, now a mass of uncouth masonry, all the wrought stones having been taken out from the doorways and windows, and even the corners of the build- ings carried away. The castle stands in a prominent position, occupying the whole summit of a hill. The dining-hall is entire, and the kitchen beneath is nearly so ; something is also left of the chapel above. Robert Stewart lived here before he came to the throne under the title of Eobert II. The property was afterwards granted by James V. to a member of the "Wallace family, who in 1638 sold it to Sir W. Cochrane. The land passed, in 1726, to Lord Eglinton, but the castle and 5 roods of land are still the property of Lord Dundonald. Boswell, who with Johnson vi-sited the ruins, says — "Dr. Johnson, to irritate mj old Scottish enthusiasm, was very jocu- lar on the homely accommodation of King Bob, and roared and laughed till the ruins echoed. " Between Dundonald and the Kil- marnock rly. is Auchans Castle, a S. Scotland. Route 12. — Eglinton Castle. 121 castellated manor-house of 1644, re- markable architecturally for its crow-stepped gables. It is, like Duudonald, a tire -proof habitation, and was built principally of mate- rials from its great model. In the adjoining orchard was raised the celebrated "Auchans" pear. [From Troon a branch rly. of 9 m. runs to Kilmarnock, passing the sta- tions of Dryhurgh, Barassie, and Gatehecul, none of which need detain the tourist.] 11 m. Irvine Stat. {Inns : King's Arms ; Wheatsheaf ), another of the Ayrshire boroughs and ports, prin- cipally occupied in the shipment of coals. Pop. 6866. It takes its name from the river, on the N. bank of which it stands, and which rises near Newmilns. The town contains an old ruined mansion, said to have been the residence of the Montgome- ries. Earls of Eglinton. It was also the birthplace of James jMontgomery the poet (1771), and of the novelist Gait (1779), and for a time the resi- dence of Burns, who was occupied in flax-dressing here, until his shop was burnt down. At Irvine, 1296, Robert the Bruce "yielded himself up to King Edward I. 's 'peace,' " i.e. surrendered to the English army under Percy. The traveller will perceive that he has arrived at an ugly countrj^, save for the picturesque outlines of the Arran mountains on left. It is one of the busiest districts of the Ayr- shire coalfield, a proof of which is visible in the 'Hazing ironworks of Eglinton, where there are 8 furnaces in blast, belonging to the Bairds. They should be seen at night, when they have a grand effect, very dif- ferent from the smoke and dust of the daytime. 144 m. Kilwinning Junct. Stat. [Inns : Winton Arms ; Commercial; both poor. ) The archaeologist should visit the ruins of Kihvinning Priory, founded in 1140, for Tironensian monks, by Hugh de Moreville, to \^Scotland.'\ whom also Dryburgh Abbey is attri- buted. The remains are reduced to the W. doorway, a door of the S. aisle, and the S. transept, a fine front with an E. pointed 3-light window, and a circular one in the gable above, and an archway leading to S. tran- sept aisle. Outside the transept was the Chapter-house, entered by a circular door, and flanked by a win- dow on each side. A modern bell- tower, erected in 1815, stands within the enclosure. Freemasonry' was in- troduced into Scotland by the build- ers of Kilwinning Priory, and Mother Kihvinning was for some centuries the parent lodge of the society in Scot- land. St. Winning, or Winnin, the patron saint of the ch., was of Irish extraction, and landed on the coast of Cunningham, as this northern district of Ayr is called. Finding starvation rather near at hand, he went to fish in the Garnock, the river on which Kilwinning stands ; and, being unable to catch anything, cursed the stream, and forbade fish ever to enter it — a fate which it escaped only by diverting its course. The upper part of the totvii cross has been restored, but the shaft is pro- bably of the 15th cent. 1 m. from the town is Eglinton Qastle, the seat of the Earl of Eglin- ton. The grounds, which are open to strangers, are tastefully laid out. But in the castle an attemj)t is made to combine the style of the feudal for- tress with the light and conveniences of a modern dwelling-house ; and the appearance of its bold round towers is spoilt by the rows of sash windows. The house of Montgomerie has for upwards of 600 years held a pro- minent position in the history of Scotland. Pvobert de Montgomerie, descended from the great ISTorman house of that name" in England, died about 1180. A descendant of his, Sir John, married the heiress of Eglinton, who was also niece of Ro- bert 11. ; and Hugh, the fifth Lord 122 Boiite 1 2. — Ayr to Glasgow ; Ardi 'ossan. Sect. I. Montgomerie, was created Eaii of Eglinton in 1503. In 1612 the title passed over to tlie Earl of Winton, whereby the two became united. The park is traversed by the river Irvine, and contains some fine forest trees. In 1839 the Eglinton tourna- ment, held in the park, was an attempt to reproduce on a large scale the chivalrous forms and ceremonies of the old times. Among the knights was the Emx>ei'or Napoleon III. Apropos of this, it may be men- tioned that Kilwinning was noted for the excellence of its archers ; and the shooting at the popinjay, as detailed in " Old Mortality," used, until late years, to be an annual custom here. The Kilwinning Company of Archers, as it is called, claims an antiquity of about 400 years. But the practice of archery has now fallen consider- ably into disuse in this part of the country. [A branch of 5 m., parsing through furnaces and coal-mines, runs from Kilvnnning Junct. at Saltcoats, a dirty straggling port, where magnesia is manufactured, in connection with salt, salt-pans, and coal-mines, to Ardrossan (inn : Eglinton Arms), a well-built town of a few broad streets at right angles to one another (3588 inhab.) It was founded 1806 by the Earl of Eglinton. Great sums of money have been expended upon the pier and harbour ; and at one time it was hoped to make it the port of Glasgow, connecting it with that city by means of a canal. This was completed as far as Johnstone, when the introduc- tion of railways arrested the project. It is a flourishing .seaport, principally occupied in the shipping of pig-iron. On the height above the town are the foundations of a chapel, and some detached fragments of a strong castle, one piece of which has an arelied roof, still perfect. It was reduced to its present state by Cromwell's troops. There are fine views of Arran from Lhe obelisk and the Fier head. Steamers. — Ardrossan is a place of embarkation for Arran, which is 15 m. distant (Rte. 23). The passage takes about 1 h hour, and is sometimes very ^ rough. There are also steam- ers thither daily to Glasgow ; and to Newry, on the Irish coast, once a week. 18 m. Daley Junct. (Rte. 9) with main line for Carlisle and Dumfries. To the right of the line are the Blair Ironworks. The geologist will find in the Hye IToYcr good sections of carboniferous rocks. The loAver parts of the carboniferous limestone are well exposed, as well as the tufts and porphyries on which that series rests. 21 m. KUhirQiie Stat. The village and iron furnaces overlook Kilbirnie Loch, a rather fine sheet of water, about 2 m. long. Here stands the Castle of the Earls of Crawford, which ■tt^as burnt down in the last centy., and some large ironworks. The Church, built after the Reformation, has a gallery which belonged to tlie Crawford family, containing some good carved woodwork in Renaissance style. In the ch. -5"d. is the monu- ment, with effigies of Thomas Craw- ford, who sealed and took Dumbarton Castle, 1571. It is enclosed in a sort of stone case, and is visible through loopholes. 23 m. Beith Stat, is at the other end of the loch. 3 1 m. to the right are the ruins of Gyffen Castle, formerly the headcpiarters of the Montgomerie family. A great ho<^e-fair is held every year, in August, at Bcith, on a day called " Tenants," a corrup- tion of St. Tnan's Dav. St. Inan (qv. St. Winnin-?) lived in the 9th cent., principally at Irvine, but has left several traces of his connection with other places. We now enter Ren- frewshire, shortly before reaching 25 ra. Lochvnnnoch Stat., a large village, engaged in the spinning of thread and i)leaching of linen for the S.Scotland. Pde. 12. — Aijr to Glasgoiu ; Paisley Ahhey. 123 Paisley manufactories. It stands on Castle Semple Loch, which covers about 200 acres, and has been partly drained. On the N. bank is Castle Semple, the seat of H. Lee-Harvey, Esq., and near it are the renit. .is of a Dec. Collegiate ch., founded by Lord Semple. To the S. of Loch Semple is the ruin of Barr Castle, which, with the exception of its roof, is tolerably complete. It is a loopholed tower of great height, and consists of 4 storeys, on the 2nd of which is a fine hall. 29 m. Millilcen Park Stat., near which on right is Elliston Tower, the ruined fortress of the Semple family in the loth cent. Beyond it are the remains of Aitchinbathie Tower, once the property of the Wallaces. It is still smaller than Elliston. 30 2 m. Johnstone Junct. Stat, is a busy town of over 6000 inhab., with a considerable reputation for its cotton manufactories, iron and brass foun- dries. It has a handsome ch., built in 1793, with a light and elegant spire. In the neighbourhood are Milliken House (Sir Eobt. Napier), Johnstone Castle (G. L, Houston, Esq.), and Eklerslie, where the patriot Wallace first saw the light. About 1|- m. to the W. is the village of Kilharchan, known in connection with Habbie Simpson, its piper, a statue of whom graces the town- steeple. " ' Weel hae ye play'd your part,' quo' Meg, ' Your cheeks are like the crimson ; There's nane in Scotland plays so weel Since we lost Habbie Simpson.' " 2 ra. to the W. is an enormous drift boulder, called Clochoderickstone or the Druids' Stone. [From JonxsTOXE Juxot. a Branch Eailway runs to Greenock (Rte. 23 a) by the village of Bridge of Weir, prettily situated on the Gryffe Water.] 33|^ m. Paisley Junction Stat. {Inns : George ; Saracen's Head), Pop. 48,240, a Pari, borough and busy town, on the White Cart stream, which, as seen from the rly., has no claim now to that epithet. It is said to be built upon the site 'of a Eoraan military station, the Van- duaria of Ptolemy. But the town itself, like Glasgow, has a monastic origin. In 1163 Walter, High Steward of Scotland, founded a monastery here upon the east side of the Cart, and bestowed it upon monks of the Cluniac order, brought from the Abbey of Wenlock, in Shropshire. The name of the place in those days was Passeleth. Pope Honorius III. raised the monastery to the dignity of an abbey, and Kobert III. presented it with a charter of regality. At the suppres- sion of the religious houses in 1.553, John Hamilton, the then abbot, settled it on Lord Claude Hamilton, 3d son of James Duke of Chatel- herault, better known as the Earl of Arran, to whose descendant, the Duke of Abercorn, it still belongs. The remains of the Ahhey Ch. are upon the E. side of the town. Its nave, the only part preserved, still used as a place of worship, has been restored in very good taste. The nave arches and piers are like Early Pointed, although no part of it is older than the 14th centy., its pre- decessor having been totally de- stroyed by the Earl of Pembroke. The W. end is a gi-aceful composi- tion ; a deeply recessed Pointed doorway, of many mouldings, flanked by 2 lancet arches of blank masonr}', is surmounted by a Dec. window which, though a circular arch, is a centy. later than the door below. The interior is remarkable chiefly for a richly-developed triforium of round arches, but Dec. in style, in front of which project a number of heavy brackets, the object of which it is not easy to explain. Of the rest 124 Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow. Sect. I. of the ch. the chancel is still marked 1 out by walls, but open to the sk}', 1 and used as a cemetery. Near the E. end are 4 sedilia, together with piscina and credence table. The N. transept window, 35 ft. high and 18 broad, is very much admired for its elegance and proportions. The most perfect part of the old establishment is the Lady Chaj)cl, othermse St. Mirren's Chapel, or the Sounding Aisle, from its remarkable echo. This chapel was built at a later date tlian the rest of the ch., and perhaps subsequently to its de- cay, for the S. transept must liave been removed to make way for it. Over the altar is a row of curious carvings ; that on the right repre- sents the Seven Sacraments, and that on the left the Holy Family. In the centre of the chapel is an altar-tomb, surmounted by the re- cumbent figure of a lady, with a stall canopy over her head. At the end of the tomb are the arms of the abbey, and in the centre is the figure of a bishop, with his name inscribed in a scroll, although it is nearly illegible. This tomb, commonly called " Queen Blearie's tomb," is generally asserted to be that of Mar- gery, eldest daughter of Robert Bruce, and wife of Walter Stewart, a des- cendant of the founder. Near Paisley is a cross which marks the spot where she had a fatal fall while hunting. The abbey was the family burying- place of the Stewarts till their acces- sion, and after that, King Robert III., and Euphemia, 2nd wife of Robert II., were interred here. In the abbey ch. -yard . is a Statue of Alexr. Wilson, the ornithologist, a native. For a centy. and a half Paisley has been celebrated for a succession of manufactures of coarse linens ; for silk gauze, muslin, etc. _; finally the weaving of shaiuls in imitation of those of India, Cashmere, and China was introduced, and it is for this kind of work that Paisley is now principally known. Although it is emphatically a manufacturing town, it has given birth to many literary men, pre-eminent amongst whom were Tannahill the poet, whose natal home in the market-place is marked by a tablet, and Professor AVilson (Christ. North), Motherwell, etc. Paisley has a Free Library and Museicm, from a bequest of Sir Peter Coates, a townsman, Itcontains some local antiquities worth notice. A glimpse may be obtained of the abbey from the rly. after the train has left the station and is crossing the river. The visitor who has time to spare will find a pretty excursion along the White Cart to the ruins of Crookston Castle, which belonged to the DaiTiley family, though it is pretty clear that Mary Queen of Scots and her husband Darnley were never there. Another excur- sion, about 2 m. to the S,, may be made to the Paisley Waterworks, on the banks of which stands the old ruined fortress of Stanley, overlook- ing the braes of Gleniffer. Tanna- hill thus writes of it : — " Keen blaws the wmd o'er the braes of Gleniffer, The auld castle's turrets are cover'd wi' snaw ; How changed frae the time when I met wi' my lover Amang the broom bushes by Stanley's green shaw." The line by which we have been travelling joins the important Rly. from Glasgow to Greenock and Wemyss Bay (Rte. 23) at Paisley. It runs through an uninteresting district for 7 m. to Glasgow. PoUocl'sMelds Stat. A little to the right is i?a^„.^as^?c, built by Sir John Maxwell in 1585, and since modernised. On approaching Glasgow a branch line starts left for Govan, a shipbuild- ing suburb on the Clyde. Left see the buildings of the new University. S. Scotland. Route 13. — Edinburgh to Galashiels. 125 Glasgow Terminus, Bridge-st., S. side of the Clyde ; or Union Stat., Dunlop-st. EOUTE 13. Edinburgh to GalasMels, by Dal- keith, Hawthornden, Roslin, Penicuik, Peebles, and Inner- leithen. There are two Branch Rlys. from Edinburgh to Roslin, which convey passengers nearer to the chapel than the Peebles line. Penicuik and Glen Esk Ely.y by Hawthornden and Roslin Castle. Direct Rly., by Gilmerton and Loanhead. The Peebles branch of the North British Rl3^ quits Edinburgh by the Waverley Stat., passing the pictur- esque environs of Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, to 6? m. Millerhill Stat. On right are Ednionstone House and village, and Drum House ( — Mitchell, Esq.), 2 m. Here the direct Roslin Rly, diverges by Gilmerton and Loanhead. Eskbank Junct. Stat. [Immediately to the 1., Branch Railway to Dalkeith. Dalkeith Stat. (Inns : Cross Keys and Buck's Head). The town, which boasts one of the best gi-ain-markets in Scotland, consists mainly of one street, on left side of which is the old Ch., partly built in the 14th cent. ; the steeple and spire were added 100 years ago. In the ruined E. end is a monument of the Douglases of Dalkeith. At the end of the street are the gates of the Fark. At the right of the entrance is a modern Gothic Epis- copal Ch., in which choral service is performed ever}' Sunday. On left is Dalkeith Palace, the seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, admission to which, and to the gardens, is gi-anted on Wednes- days and Saturdays. The old castle of Dalkeith belonged to the Grahams for 200 years till the middle of the 14th cent. Froissart, who stayed here for a considerable time, calls the place D'Alquest ; and mentions its capture by Edward III. in 1333 ; he was the guest of the Earl of Douglas (into whose family it came by mar- riage with the heiress of the Grahams), but he has probably made a mistake in the date. The castle and lands seem to have been gi'anted to Douglas in 1369, on payment of a pair of white gloves or a silver penny to the king at the Feast of Pentecost. It de- scended to the Regent Morton, who increased its strength and magniti- cence, until it got the name of the "Lion's Den" in consequence. It was sold to Francis, 2nd Earl of Buccleuch, in 1642, in whose family it has since remained. Amongst its celebrated residents was General Monk, and it is not improbable that the plan of the Restoration was con- cocted here. The actual building, erected by Ann, Dss. of B. and Mon- mouth, in the early part of the 18th centy., is a heavy imitation of the palace of Loo in the Netherlands, and was the work of Sir John Van- brugh. The situation, however, is charming, and makes up for any de- iiciency of architecture. On either side, some way beneath it, flow the finely wooded streams of the Esk ; in front is an extensive and undu- lating park of 800 acres, walled round, studded with groups of fine trees, amongst which the cedars are worth notice. The palace contains a good collection of paintings. In the entrance-hall, — portrait of Duke of Monmouth, Kneller; also of George IV., hjJFilkie — animated in 126 Route 13. — Ediiiburgh to Galashiels ; Lassicade. Sect. I. conception, and exliibits great power of colour. Lucy Waters (mother of the Duke of Monmouth), and Nell Gw3mne, by Leiy. In the next room are some battle pieces. In 1st dining-room are the Duchess of IMonmouth, Kneller, — and the Earl of Strafford. In the breakfast-room are Venetian views, probably the work of Bernardo Bdlotto: Baths of Titus, and Roman Ruins, by Pannini — both admirable. In the old entrance-hall are a clock presented by Louis XIV., and the torso of a female figure found in the grounds. Here are the portraits of Francis, 2nd Earl of Buccleuch, Dohson ; Lucj'' Waters, and Mary Scott, "the Flower of Yarrow," by Ldy. DraAving-room — Duke and Duchess of Montague, by Gains- borough, of true and refined concep- tion ; Duke of Buccleuch, and Eliz- abeth, Duchess of B., and a Boy with a Dog, by Sir J. lieynolds; Hen- rietta Maria, Vandych (?), a portrait of great delicacy and refinement, but insipid ; the Jewish Bride, Rem- brandt (?) — a work of marvellous power and transparency ; Stag-hunt, Wouvcrmans ; Six Saints, two ador- ing the Cross, by Andrea del Sarto; Landscape, by Claude ; Wooded Landscape, Ruysdjxcl ; another by Wynants. Here are also 2 cabinets, given to the Duke of Monmouth by Charles II. In the small dining-room are six Venetian views by Canaletti ; a view of Montague House, Whitehall, in the middle of the 18th century. The staircase is very handsome, and the inlaid oaken floor deserves notice. Duke of Monmouth, mounted; Sir Nicholas Carew, Master of the Horse to Henry VIII., by Holbein, of animated conception and masterly carrying out. Dalkeith has had many royal visi- tors ; Charles I. in 1642 ; George IV. in 1822 ; and the Queen and the Prince Consort on their first journey to Scotland, 1842. The pleasure-grounds extend for a considerable distance, and contain some fine shrubberies, conifers, etc. The gardens and vineries have a high repute among horticulturists.] 8 m. From Eskbank Stat., 2 m. left, is Newbattle, described in Rte. 1. [Branch Ely. to the village of Lass- ivade, 14 m., passing near Melville Castle, the modern seat of Viscount Melville. Lassicade, a busy village seated in a hollow on the banks of the N. Esk, surrounded by chimneys of carpet and other factories, and by numerous villas, is still attractive from its posi- tion in a deep glen, over whose steep sides rises the picturesque outline of the Pentlands. Coaches run several times a day to Edinburgh, distant 6 m. Lasswade was the residence in his later years of Thomas De Quincej'. He revised the collected edition of his works shortly before his death, Dec. 1859. Sir Walter Scott also passed some of the happiest j'^ears of his life here soon after he was married, 1798, in a very small thatched cottage with garden and paddock, amidst the dearest haunts of his boj^hood. Lasswade was the type of the " Ganderscleugh " of " Tales of my Landlord." " Sweet are the paths, oh passing sweet, B\' Esk's fair streams that run, O'er airy steeps throngli copsewood deeps. Impervious to the sun." Around the ruins of the Norman Ch. rest the remains of the families of Melville and Hawthornden, includ- ing those of Drummond the poet.] The rly. can be rejoined at 9.2 m. Bonnyrigg Stat. [There is a public footpath from Lasswade rip the 1. bank of the Esk to Roslin, 3 m., passing on left the house of Hawthornden ; cross Eskbridge (1 m.) at the Spring- field paper-mills, and turn to left ; at 2-2 m. pass on right Wishart's Monument in Dryden Park. N.B. — Hawthornden Grounds can be GOTLAND. Route 13. — Haivthornden J Rosli 127 S. Scotland. Eoute 13. — Hawtliomden ; RosUn. 127 entered only from the lodge, on tlie high road.j About 24 m. right of Lasswade is Burdiehouse, interesting to the geo- logist as being the locale of the celebrated freshwater limestone of the carboniferous group, ably de- scribed by Dr. Hibbert, and prolific in estuarine fossils and plants. Among them will be found Palgeo- niscus, Megalichthys, Gyracanthus, and large beds of Cyprides. \1\ m. Hawthornden Stat. A short walk brings the visitor to Hawthornden, the admittance to which is Is., daily, except Thursday and Sunday. The house (Sir J. H. Williains Drummond, Bt. ) is amodern mansion, grafted on an old fortified Peel-tower, planted on the very edge of a red clitf looking down into the den or glen of the N". Esk, and sur- rounded by pretty gardens and woods. Beneath the Castle the rock is pierced with a number of caves, said to have been inhabited before the natives were civilised enough to erect huts. They have no doubt been used as hiding-places. Tradition says that they were once so occupied by Bruce. The rock, owing to its softness, was easily hewn out into chambers, which were inhabited or used for cellars or prisons. They are fur- nished with a well, also cut in the rock. Hawthornden has obtained its chief reputation from being built and inhabited by the poet Drum- mond, born in 1585, The melan- choly tone of his poems is said to have arisen from the fact of his be- trothed dying on the day before that fixed for the marriage. He was a great friend of Ben Jonson, who walked all the way from London to pay him a visit here. " Where Jonson sat in Druramond's social shade." Visitors having traversed Haw- thornden grounds, cross the Esk by a bridge and exeunt through a gate which opens only from within ; thence they pursue the X'ath along the bottom of the fine glen to Koslin Ig m. — a very pretty walk, though the Esk is polluted by Penicuik Paper-mills. It terminates with a fine view of Roslin Castle and Chapel, as the visitor emerges from the glen. A little to the N. of Roslin is the Moor, where in 1303 the Scotch army, under the Regent Comyn, fought 3 battles against 3 divisions of the English. It was victorious over 2, and took some prisoners, but was defeated by the 3d under Sir Robert Neville. Roslinlee Stat, is about 1^ m. dis- tant from the Chapel, and the same from the village. Roslin Oastlc Stat. of the Penicuik and Esk Valley Rly. much nearer. Roslin Stat, of the Loanhead line close to the village. Inn : Royal Hotel. Prettily situated on a height above the deep flowing N. Esk. Roslin is famous for straw- berries, which in summer attract as many visitors perhaps as Roslin Chapel. It is a common error to speak of this building as merely a chapel. From the first it was designed as a collegiate church, dedicated to St. Mattliew, with a provost, 6 prebendaries, and 2 cho- risters. It was founded 1446, by William St. Clair, Earl of Roslin and Orkney, Grand Master of the Masons of Scotland, but was unfinished on the death of William, Earl of Caith- ness, 1484, and was carried on by his son and successor. It is merely the choir of a cruciform church, of which the transept was begun but never finished. It is well worth while to walk round the outside, to inspect the carvings, . flying buttresses, and pinnacles. The Ch. consists of a choir of 5 bays with aisles, and the pier arches are continued behind the altar so as to form a low Lady Chapel like that of Glasgow. Two of these arches support the E. window. The roof of this retro-choir is vaulted and groined in 4 bay.sV'and from the ceu- 128 Route 13. — Roslin Chapel. Sect. I. tral ribs descend great carved pen- dants, giving a very rich efl'ect. This chapel "is certainly imclassable as a whole, being unlike any other building in Great Britain of its age ; but if its details are minutely ex- amined they will be found to accord most completely, in the ornamental work, with the style then prevalent, though debased by the clumsiness of the j)arts and their want of proportion to each other. — Bickinan." The workmen employed on it by the founders were foreigners ; and from a comparison of this work with others on the Continent it is probable that the artificers were brought from the ISr. of Spain. Fergusson ("Architec- ture," vol. ii.) shows that it resembles parts of Burgos, while it has the greatest affinity to the chapel at Belem in Portugal. Still there is in parts a considerable clumsiness and scamj)ing, both in the carving and construction, that would lead us to believe that the foreign artificers left a good deal to incapable pupils. The chapel owes its beauty entirely to the profuseness of its decorations, for the original plan and proportions are far from pleasing. " It has little pretensions to S5'mmetry, and its squat, stumpy outline is a gi'eat con- trast to the slender grace of ]\Ielrose. All the beauties of Koslin are super- induced on the design in the shape of mouldings and incrustations " — Billings. The length of the chajiel internally is only 68 ft., and its breadth 35. The central aisle is 15 ft. wide, 40 ft. high, and has the southern peculiarity of a barrel vault, with only transverse ribs, just as may be seen in the S. of France. Upon this stone vault the roofing slabs are laid, and follow its curves without intervening timber. The aisles are roofed with cross- vaults rising from straight stone transoms, supported by the piers and outer walls, and covered with elaborate bas-reliefs of Scripture sub- jects rudely carved. Each compart- ment is difi"ereut in pattern, till the variety becomes perfectly bewilder- ing. The niches on a line with the clerestory were occupied by statues of the 12 Apostles and the Yirgin. On one of the transoms across the aisle are represented the 7 Deadly Sins, and on the opposite side are the Cardinal Virtues. The mouldings on the arch-lintels, behind the altar, pourtray the Angelic choir playing on various instruments, and include an angel performing on the bagpipes, the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, etc. At the E. end of the S. aisle is the ^Prentice pillar, ornamented with a spiral festoon of flowers and foliage more elaborately carved than the rest. It received its name from a story (not uncommon) that the 'pren- tice executed it while the master had gone to Eome for a pattern, and was killed on the return of the latter in a fit of jealousy. The story of the foundation of the chapel is that Sir William St. Clair made a rash bet of his life against the Eoslin property, that his dogs Help and Hold would run down a stag before it passed a certain brook. The stag was already in the water when the dog, excited by the desperate cries of its master, made a tremendous spring, and pulled it down before it could mount the opposite bank. William St. Clair and his dog are represented together on the tombstone. There is a legend (not founded in fact) that the lords of Eoslin were buried in full armour, and that on the night pre- ceding the death of any of the family the cha])el appeared on fire, an illu- sion which is sujjposed to arise from the peculiar position of the chapel admitting the rays of the sun point blank tlu'ough the windows of both sides. " Blazed battlement and turret high, Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair; So blaze they still when fate is nigh The lordlv line of high St. Clair." IF. Scott's Ballad of " Rosabelle." Projecting beyond the E. end of S. ScoTLAA^D. Fioute 13. — Roslin Castle; Penicidk. 129 the chapel, on a lower level, is a chamber, which the altar and piscina prove to have been used as a chapel, while the fireplace and other secular conveniences show it to have been fitted up for a vestry. Since 1862 the Chapel of Roslin has been fitted up for the service of the Scottish Ejjiscopal Church, which is performed here on Sundays at 12^ and 44 P.M. The Castle oi Roslin, on an insu- lated mound below the Chapel, and near the extreme edge of the preci- pice overhanging the Esk, is reduced to a mere fragment, and a modem house occupies the enclosure. There are 2 storeys left of gloomy arched rooms, attbrding very little clue as to the date of its erection. It be- longed to the St. Clairs, and is pro- bably of the same age as the chapel. A bridge and solid wall of masonry still remaining over a gully formed the approach to it, and was guarded by a feudal gateway, of which a fragment remains. The upper por- tion was entirely destroyed by the Earl of Hertford. The Valley of the Esk, between Roslin and Penicuik, is extremely picturesque. Near the village of Auchendinny are slight remains of the old castle of Woodlwusclee, once the property of Hamilton of Both- wellhaugh. Its being taken from him, and his wife's sudden expulsion in the middle of the night, by which she was rendered a maniac, led to the murder of the Regent Moray, at Linlithgow, by the hands of Hamil- ton. New IFoodhoitselee, residence of the Tytler family, is 3 m. distant. •Auchendinny House is the seat of John Innes, Esq. Fovmthorn Stat, of the Peebles Rly. is 1 m. from Penicuik. 15 Td. Penicuik Stat, and Termi- nus, a prettily situated village [Inn, Queen's Arms), on the 1. bank of the North Esk. Here are the largest Pa2)er Mills in Scotland (Messrs. Cowan's). 1 m. on rt. is Penicuik House (SirG. D. Clerk, Bart.), ahand- some Grecian edifice. The Baron of Penicuik was bound by his tenure, when the king came to Edinburgh, to receive him at the Hare Stone with 3 blasts of his horn. So Scott says : " Come, Clerk, and give your bugle breath, Carle, now the king's come." The motto of the Clerks is " Free for a blast. " The house has some of the ceilings painted by Runciman, the Scotch artist, witji subjects from Ossian, and contains an interesting collection of Roman antiquities. Here is kept the buff coat that Claverhouse wore at the battle of Killiecrankie. In the grounds is an obelisk to the memory of Allan Ram- say, who is much associated with this district. At the bend of the grounds, and higher up the valley of the Esk, are the ruins of Brunstane Castle, formerly a stronghold of the Crichtons. Z)i5tonccs.— Edinburgh, by rly. 15 m., by road 10 ; Newhall, 3 ; Peebles, 12. The Peebles Rly. now runs through a hilly district to 17| m. Leadburn Junct. Stat. Branch Railway to Dolphinton. MaxUe Hill Stat. To the S. of Coalyburn is Halmyre House, an old residence of the Gordon family, and Macbie Hill (Capt. Beresford). Lanianclia (Stat.) was so called by the Earl of Dundonald, after some property he possessed in that province of Spain. After being long the residence of the Earl, it was bought by J. Mackintosh, Esq. Broomlee Stat. Near this is the village of JFest Linton, once "a burgh of regality" and of considerable im- portance. The masons and sculptors 130 FiOute 13. — Edinburgh to Galashiels ; Peebles. Sect. I. of Linton were renowned for their skill in carving tombstones. In the village is Lculy GifforcVs Well, sur- mounted by her figure, carved in 1666 by her husband, Laird Gilford, who was celebrated for his skill in stonework. Siy'daUumgh, on the S. of the rly., is the handsome modern Gothic residence of Sir William Fergusson, the eminent surgeon, Avho has made a very beautiful place of it. From Broomlec Stat, the antiquary will find it to his account to explore the valley of the Lyne (to the S. ), which was guarded by numerous forts and camps, the principal of which, viz. Whiteside Hill, Bordland Rings, Drochil Hill, and Henderland, are in a fair state of preservation. The latter occupies the summit of an eminence rising 400 ft. above the bed of the Lj-ne. At Roinanno, close to JSFewlands Ch., near which is Bord- lands (G. Hope, Esq.), is one of those curious series of terraces similar to Purvis Hill, near Innerleithen, rising 14 in number to the height of 250 ft. About 2 m. to the S. of Dolphinton is Castle Craig, the seat of Sir W. Gibson -Carmichael, and Nether Urd (J. White, Esq.), and a little to the N. is Garvald House (W. Woddrop, Esq., Dolphinton). BoljjMntoii (Stat), an incon-sider- able village at the eastern vslope of the Pentlands, and on the high road between Biggar and Edinburgh. Leaving rt. Leadburn a picturesque waterfall known as Corric's Linn, and on left Portmore Loch and the Moorfoot range of hills, which rise to 2000 ft. (Whitehope Law, 2038 ft.), the train arrives at 22| m. Ecldlestone Stat., where there are some forts and tumuli. In the neighbourhood left are Portmore •(C. Mackenzie, Esq.), and right Darnhall, an old house in the French chateau style, the seat of Lord Eli- bank. Behind the former is the camp of Northshicld Rings, of an oval shape, consisting of three walls with sunk ditches, the whole mea- suring 450 by 370 ft. 1 m. S. is MilJceston Rings, the largest camp in the county, circular, having a detached rampart on the slope of the hill below. Between Eddlestone and Peebles, on the right, is Cringletie, the seat of J. Wolfe- Murray, Esq. At the junction of the Eddlestone Water with the Tweed is, 27 m. Peebles* Junct. Stat. (Ete. 5a) {Inns : Tontine ; Commercial). This old county town is agreeably situated on the left bank of the Tweed, here crossed by an old bridge, 30 m. from its source and 1000 ft. below it (Pop. about 2200). The town being burnt in 1544 by the Earl of Hertford, the new one was built on both sides of the river, but the old town still occupies a position on the bank of Eddlestone Water. It has a pretty country round it, a number of Excursions, and unexcep- tionable angling ; but it is as dull and quiet as any place in the king- dom. It was a favourite residence of the Scottish monarchs, particularly^ of Alexander III., who built the Cross Kirk, of which the tower is still^standing near the Cal. Ely. Stat. James I. made Peebles Fair the sub- ject of his poem, " Peblis to the Play," commencing " At Beltane, when ilk hndy bounds To Peebles to the play. To hear the singing and the sounds Their solace, sooth to say. By firth and forest forth they found. They graithit them full gay ; God wait that wold they do that stound. For it was their feast-day. « Tliey said. Of Peebles to the play." The Beltane Fair is still held in June. St. Andrew's Church Avas * See the very complete and interesting " History of Peeblesshire," by Wm. Cham- bers, 1864. S. Scotland. Route 13. — Peebles — Neidimth Castle. 131 founded in 1195 ; but Cromwell's troopers converted it into a stable, and very little is now left but a venerable old tower. The old Cross Ch. is not much better, and consists only of the shell of the tower, and an ivy-covered gable. Of the Castle of Peebles nothing is left, but a small portion of the town walls may be seen near the E. port. A conspicu- ous building is the Chambers Insti- tute, presented to the town by jMr. Wm. Chambers of Glenormiston, the publisher. The building in which the library is placed dates from the 16th centy., and once formed the residence of the Queensberry family. In the centre of the quadrangle is the shaft of the old Toivn Cross, gifted to the burgh by Sir Adam Hay. ]\Iungo Park, the African traveller, once practised as a medical man in Peebles, and had his surgery in the High Street. The inn of the Cross Keys, formerly known as the Yett, was the town mansion of the family of Williamson of Cardrona, and is of the date of the 17th centy. Some of the houses have vaulted floors level with the street, and are remnants of the bastel houses erected for security against border invaders. About 1 m. W. of the town, on the X. bank of the Tweed, are the ruins of Neidpath Castle, principally con- sisting of 2 square towers, with some modern additions. On a gateway in the courtyard is the crest of the Earls of Tweeddale — a goat's head over a coronet, and a bunch of straw- berries, a rebus on the name of Eraser. " Neidpath consists properly of two castles united. Originally the structure had consisted of a tall border tower or peel, each storej^ vaulted, and with a spiral stair com- municating with the different floors. Subsequently there was attached' to the front of this meagre stronghold an imposingbuilding of vast strength, forming the newer part, which now constitutes the castle as visited by strangers. The S. side of the ancient tower is almost entirely gone, leaving a series of spectral vaulted floors one above another." — Chambers. It once belonged to the southern branch of the Eraser family, and passed from them to the Hays of Tester. The 2nd Earl of Tweeddale held it for Charles II., but the old tower, the weakest part, was battered by the cannon of Cromwell, and it was taken after an obstinate resistance. It was afterwards purchased by the Duke of Queensberry, "Old Q." who cut down the fine timber. Hence Wordsworth's sonnet, "Composed at Castle " : — " Degenerate Douglas ! oh, the unworthy- Lord ! Whom mere despite of heart could so far please. And love of havoc (for with such disease Fame taxes him), that he could send forth word To level with the dust a noble horde, A brotherhood of venerable trees ; Leaving an ancient dome and towers like these Beggared and outraged. " At the death of "Old Q." the castle passed to the Earl of Wemyss. The Neidpath estates are the largest in the county, yielding a rental of £12,000 per annum. The cottage of David Ptitchie, the original of the "Black Dwarf," is still to be seen on the estate of Woodhouse, where he was visited by Walter Scott, 1797, then the guest of Prof. Adam Eerguson, who lived at Hall- yards, now residence of W. Ander- son, Esq. There are many pleasant residences in the neighbourhood of Peebles, such as Rosetta, Venlaw (J. Erskine, Esq.), Kerfield (A. Mchol, Esq.), and King's Meadow (Sir Robert Hay, Bart.) Puiilway to Symington Stat. 18 m., on the v\j. from Glasgow to Carlisle by Biggar (Pte. 5). Distances. — Edinburgh, 27 m. ; Innerleithen, 6 ; Biggar, 11 ; Neid- 132 Route 13. — Innerleithen; Ashiestiel. Sect. I. path, 1 ; Eddleston, i ; Galashiels, 18 ; Symington, 18. The raily. to Galashiels now makes a bend, and follows the N. bank of the Tweed, passing Kerfield and Kailzie, on the S. bank, with the scant ruins of Horshurgh Cattle., the old house of the family of the same name. 30 m. Cardrona Stat., with the old ruined tower and the modern mansion of Cardrona (A, Williamson, Esq.), and (on the opposite side of the river) Glenormiston, the seat of W. Chambers, Esq., above Avhich rises the peaked summit of the Lee Pen (1647 ft.) 33 m. Innerleithen (Stat.), {Inn : Kiddle's), prettily placed at the junct. of the Leitlien Water with theTw^ed, is a watering-place in some repute from its mineral springs, and noted as the locale of the scenes in "St. Konan's Well." Overlooking the stat. on left is Caerlee Hill Fort, a large circular British camp, measur- ing 400 by 350 ft. across. On the opposite side of the Leithen is ano- ther not so large, known as the Pirn Hill Fort. Pirn House is the resi- dence of Col. Horsburgh. One m. E. of Innerleithen, at Purvis Hill, are some remarkable earthen ter- races, rising in the form of gigantic steps, about a dozen in number, to the height of 450 ft. above the Tweed. Their appearance has given rise to much discussion, some attri- buting them to geological causes, while arclipeologists point to the fact that a fort itself is to be found in connection with them, as is also the case at Newlands. At the village of Walkerburn, 1 m. E., are some woollen factories, giving employment to a good many hands. About 1 m. to the right is Tra- quair House (belonging to the Stewart family), part of which is very old, though the date is uncertain. There is a fine gateway flanked by two figures of bears in stone. Nearly opposite are the remains of the " Bush aboon Traquair," the subject of a well-known poem, written by Robert Crawford in 1724. The road may be followed up the glen of the Quair to Glen House, the modern mansion of C. Tennant, Esq., of Glasgow, designed by Mr. Bryce, in the old Scotch baronial style. The path continues over the hills to Dryhope, at the foot of St. Mary's Loch. Et., at Grieston, to the K. of Traquair, the geologist will find Silurian rocks with graptolites. A little before arriving at 39 m. Thornilee Stat, the traveller passes Elihank Tower (in ruins), the ancestral seat of the Murrays, and 2 m. farther Ashiestiel (Lady Kus- sell), for many years the residence of Walter Scott, where great part of "The Lay," and of "Marmion" was written. Farther on a bridge with a fine spanned arch carries the Selkirk road across the Tweed. 42 m. Clovenfords Stat. 454 Galashiels Junct. Stat. (Rte. 1.) SECTIOX 11. Central Scotland — Glasgow — Stirling — Dumbarton — Part of Lanark and Perthshire — Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The Trossachs. INTPvODUCTION. § 1. General Information. § 2. Ohjects of Intei-est. § 3. Loch Katrine avd Glasgow Water-works. ROUTES. 14 Edinburgh to Dunfermline, by Dalmcny, Quecnsfcrry, and Invcrkeithing . .137 15 Edinburgh to Stirling, by the Forth, Alloa, and Cla/ik- niannan . . . . 140 16 Edinburgh to Glasgow, by Linlithgoio and Fal- kirk .... 144 17 Glasgow to Edinburgh, by Airdrie and Bathgate . 158 17a Edinburgh to Glasgow, by ]\Iid-Calder, FTolyto%\Ti, and Gartsherrie Ironworks . 160 18 Edinburgh or CarstairsJunct. ROCTE PAGE to Stirling, by Larhcrt and Bannockburn . . . !I61 19 Glasgow to Tarhct and Loch Lomond, by Dumbarton and Balloch [Helensburgh, Gare- loch]— Rail . . .*165 20 Stirling to Inversnaid, by Loch Mcnteith, Abcrfoyle, and Loch Chon . 21 Stirling to Loch Lomond, by Dunblane, Callandxr, Loch Katrine, and The Trossachs 22 Stirling to Balloch, by Dry- men, Forth and Clyde Rail. 172 174 182 1. General Information. This division is made simply for the convenience of travellers, as combining the Routes issuing from Edinburgh and Glasgow and Stirling, and leading to the most generally attractive district of Scotland — The Trossachs, Loch Katrine, and Loch Lomond — which everybody, however pressed for time, is sure to visit, even if they advance no farther into the Highlands. The contractors for, and purveyors of, locomotion, indeed, have succeeded in arranging such an uninterrupted series of conveyances — trains, steamboats, and coaches — that by leaving Edinburgh at 7.10, or Glasgow at 7.30 a.m., you may meet the coach at Callander at 9.50, scamper through Trossachs, and reach the steamer on L. Katrine at 11.20, complete the voyage down the two Lochs by 3.20, reach Stirling at 5, and Edinburgh or Glasgow by 6.30 ! Nay, in 134 §2. Objects of Interest. Sect. 11. the summer, tlie traveller has three different cliances in the day to make this round ! We need scarcely enter a protest against this hurry-scurr}^ mode of doing the scenery of Scotland. A sensible person will devote a day at least to Stirling, a day to the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, and another to Loch Lomond (Tarloet). The mere cost of the jeurney (fees to coachman not included) is — From Edinburgh, 25s. first-class, 19s. second-class ; from Glasgow, 19s. first-class, second-class 15s. The tickets allow of halting on the way, heing valid for 7 days. There are excellent Inns at Stirling, Bridge of Allan, the Trossachs, Liversnaid, and Tarbet on Loch Lomond, Port of Men- teith, Doune, etc. Those who take interest in other things besides grand scenery may desire to visit the extraordinary coalfield lying E. and S. of Glasgow, where the manufacture of iron has been developed to such a wonderful extent. Eoutes 1 7 and 1 7a pass through a district dismal with smoke and black with coal and ashes, but teeming with most extraordinary industry in iron furnaces and forges. The centre of this is at Airdrie and Coatbridge, situated on the famous Black Band of iron ore. The largest works are those of Gartsh^rrie (Baird), Langloan, Shotts, etc. (See Rte. 1 7a.) § 2. Objects of Interest, Grouped according to Vicinity. Dalmeny. — Church ; Park and trees ; Barnbougle Castle ruins. S. Queensferry. — Hopetoun House ; Kirkliston ; Church and Park ; Niddry Castle. N. Queensferry . — Dunfermline, Donibristle Castle. The River Forth and its windings. Linlitligo'W. — Wells ; Church ; Palace. Falkirk. — Carron Ironworks ; Grseme's Dyke (Roman Wall). Stirling. — Greyfriars Church ; Mar's Work ; Cemetery ; Castle and View ; Cambuskenneth ; Abl)ey Craig (view) ; Bannockburn ; Bridge of Allan ; Keir ; Castle Campbell ; Alva Glen. Dunblane. — Cathedral : Doune Castle. Callander. — Loch Vennachar ; Loch Achray, Loch Lubnaig. Trossachs. — Loch Katrine ; Beallach-nam-Bo Pass ; Ellen's Isle ; Glasgow Aqueduct. loch Menteith. — Inch Mahone. Loch Lomond. — Inversnaid ; Tarbet ; Islands, Luss ; Ro warden- nan ; Ascent of Ben Lomond. Balloch. — Dumbarton Castle. Introd. § 3. Loch Katrine and Glasgoiv Water-worh. 135 Glasgow. — George Square and Monnments ; Cathedral ; Ne- cropolis ; Old College ; Exchange ; Universit}^ ; Parks ; Broomie- law ; Shipbuilding Yards ; Langside ; Bothwell Castle ; Hamilton Palace ; Cadzow, Coatbrichje, Airdrie, Bathgate. The Lanarkshire Ironworks. Lennoxtoion. — Campsie Fells ; Lennox Castle ; Kirkintilloch. § 3. On the Loch Katrine and Glasgow Water-works.* The works which have been established for conveying a portion of the water of Loch Katrine to Glasgow are a verj interesting specimen of engineering, so that a short description of them will not be misplaced here. The singularity which perhaps will first occur to the reader is, that a portion of the waters which, in the course of nature, reached the sea by the eastern estuary of the Forth, is now turned to the supply of the great city on the western estuary of the Clyde. This has arisen from two circumstances. First, that Loch Katrine, the highest of the reservoirs of water supplying the Forth (hj its con- fluent the Teith), is far west ; secondly, that the elevation of Loch Katrine is considerable. But for the latter circumstance it would have been difficult to convey the water of Loch Katrine over the high ground which divides the basins of the Forth and the Clyde ; and it was apparently to facilitate this that the water of Loch Katrine is now dammed to a height about five feet above its natural elevation. The heights of the surface waters of the principal lakes above the mean level of the sea are the following : — Loch Venna- char, 270 ft. ; Loch Achray, 276 ft. ; Loch Katrine, 364 ft. The height of Loch Lomond above the sea is only 23 ft. (Every tourist must have remarked the great descent in passing from Loch Katrine to Inversnaid.) It was obviously impossible to utilise the water of Loch Lomond for the service of Glasgow, except by an enormous expenditure of mechanical power. Though the Teith, of which Loch Katrine is the head, is an affluent of the Forth, yet their upper basins, being separated by hilly ground, must be considered as on different rivers. The basin of the Forth, whose head is in Ben Lomond, lies between that of the Teith and that of the Clyde. To gain the basin of the Forth it was necessary to pierce the hills bounding the south side of Loch Katrine. In passing by boat along the lake, from the Trossachs to the landing- pier of Stronachlachar, the -tourist will remark, on the left hand, a * From a description of the location of the "Lady of the Lake," by Sir George B. Airy, P.R.S. 136 § 3. Loch Katrine and Glasgow Water-works. Sect. II. little more than a mile before reaching the pier, the entrance-works of the water-conduit. They may be visited by a road from Stronach- lachar. They consist of the nsnal defences against the entrance of extraneous matter, and gates and sluices for regulating the influx of water ; well worthy of examination, but requiring no special notice here. The water-course immediately pierces the hill by a tunnel about a mile long (the air-shafts of which can be seen from the lake), and opens upon one of the streams of Loch Chon, which is a feeder of the Forth. It passes on the south-west sides of Loch Chon and the upper part of Loch Ard, crosses the Duchray water, traverses a desolate country, crosses many streams of the Forth, and near the summit of the Forth and Clyde Junction Eailwaj^ close to the Bal- fron station, at a height of about 250 feet, quits the basin of the Forth for that of the Endrick, which it subsequently leaves at a lower level for that of the Clyde proper. Through nearly the whole of the course thus described the water-coiu'se is tunnelled in the solid gneiss rock, usually at a small depth below the surface, and nothing is visible but heaps of " spoil " from distance to distance. It was absolutely necessary that the channel should be covered, and tunnelling was found to be less ex- pensive and more secure than vaulting in masonry. But in many places the water is carried on aqueducts, consisting of large iron tubes, or iron troughs supported by arches ; and, where these are open, it is striking to view the smooth and rapid course of the water on its journey to the distant city. In some places the water passes through a tube which descends to the bottom of a valley, and rises to nearly the same level on the opposite side. In Stratli Endrick, I believe, it descends about 200 feet for a considerable distance. The parts, however, which more immediately concern the Loch Katrine tourist are the sluices at the outlets of the Lakes. It is obviously necessary to have a sluice at the outlet of Loch Katrine, for maintaining the water at a height sufficient, but not inconvenient, for the discharge into the Glasgow conduit ; and this sluice will be found at the bottom of the Beal-nam-bo. It consists, as is usual, of adjustible sliding sluice-gates (managed by rack-and-pinion ma- chinery) and a weir ; it also contains, what is less usual, a salmon- ladder, to enable the salmon to leap up into Loch Katrine. This sluice in itself is sufficient for the mere management of the water- supply to Glasgow ; but commercial considerations required an additional system of sluices. The streams of the Teith and the Forth are employed to give motion to various mills, and to serve in various manufactures ; and, considering the large amount of water Intrcd. Route 14. — Edinburgh to Dunfermline. 137 abstracted for the supply of Glasgow, there was great fear that in dry seasons the discharge from the outlet of Loch Vennachar would be absolutely stopped, and the mills and manufactures would be deprived of their necessary waters. A large sluice (much larger than that at the outlet of Loch Katrine) is therefore established at the ancient Coilantogle Ford, at the outlet of Loch Vennachar ; and is kept under the most careful daily regulation. In wet seasons the water (which otherwise would have been wasted in an injurious torrent, rushing downwards to Stirling and the Forth) is treasured up, raising the surface of Loch Vennacher ; and in dry seasons this accumulated store is discharged by regulated openings of the sluice-gates, for the benefit of the mills. It was laid down as a condition that the supply of water to the river should never be less than double the minimum in the former state of the lakes, and it is believed that this condition has been maintained without diffi- culty.— (?. B. A. The plans of the Glasgow water- works were designed and the works executed by the eminent Civil Engineer, John Frederick Bateman, Esq., of London. ROUTE 14. Edinburgh to Dunfermline, by Dalmeny, Queensferry, and In- verkeithing (Road and Rail). Rly. as far as S. Queensferry, where the Firth must be crossed by a steamer, and the rest of the journey traversed in an omnibus or private conveyance imtil the N. Queensferry and Dunfermline Rly. is open. Carriages and post-horses must be ordered beforehand from the land- lord of the Hawes Inn, S. Queens- ferry, or of the Royal Hotel, Inver- keithing, to meet the traveller at N". Queensferry pier. For those who like coach travelling "in the olden style," there is a four-horse coach starts three times a-day from No. 4 Princes Street. It crosses the ferry in the steamer, and is the most con- venient mode of reaching Dunferm- line. Those who are willing to make the longer sea passage by Burnt- [Scotland.^ island (Rte. 40) may proceed thence, and then by rail all the way to Dun- fermline, via Kirkcaldy and Thorn- ton Junct., but at the expense of a circuit of 20 ra. (Rte. 40). The old coach road to Queensferry will repay by its pleasant scenery and the interesting places it passes. Leaving Edinburgh by the Queens- feny-road, the traveller crosses the Water of Leith at Dean Bridge, be- yond which an excellent view is obtained of the Fettes College, and a little to the W. of which is St. Cuthbert's Poorhouse, and on the 1. of the coach road Stewart's Hospital (now one of the Merchant Co.'s schools for boys), an Elizabethan building ; immediately south of which is the Orphan Hosp. , A\dtli open work towers, to the AV. of which again is John Watson's Hosp. Stewart's Hosp. consists of a solid centre with towers, and on each side a wing, connected Avith the main body by a screen of open work. The principal g2 138 FiOide 1 L — Balmeny — Queensferrij, Sect. II. tower is 120 ft. liigh. This hospital was completed in 1853. 1 111. right is Craigleith Quarry, whence came the stones for building large part of the New Town of Edin- burgh. The stone is a sandstone of the carboniferous period, and is re- markable for its fossil trees, one of which, lying in a slanting position, was upwards of 60 feet in length, and which may now be seen in the Eoyal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. 2 m. left are Eavelstone House (J. Murray Gartshore, Esq.), and Craigcrook, formerly the residence of Lord Jeffrey, beautifully situated on the eastern slope of Corstorphine Hill, which the road crosses One of the finest views of Edinburgh is obtained from it. 4 m. right Barnton (Sir A. K. Gibson-Maitland, Bart.) 5 m. Cramond Bridge, OA^er the Almond Water, which flows into the Firth of Forth at Cramond, a charm- ing little village in a hollow. Cram- ond House is the seat of C. Craigie- Halkett Inglis, Esq. It was on Cramond Bridge that James V. was attacked when return- ing in disguise from an assignation. The king was hard pressed, when a miller rushed out of a neighbouring barn, and put his assailants to flight ; he then brought the king into his barn, and furnished him with water and a towel to cleanse his face from tlie blood. He was rewarded with the property on condition that he or his successors should be ready to present a basin and ewer for the king to wash his hands whenever he should come to Holyrood or cross the bridge of Cramond. In 1822 the descendant of this man (now Howison Crauford) fulfilled the con- dition of presenting a silver ewer to George lY. On left is Xew Saugh- ton (Earl of Morton), and Craigie Hall (J. C. Hope Vere, Esq.) The Railway to Queensferry starts from Waverley terminus, and follows the Glasgow line (Rte. 16) as far as Pudho Junct. Stat. (Rte. 16). Turning here right a good view is obtained of the Almond river via- duct on the Glasgow line. Kirkliston Stat. Here is a large distillery ; left is Dundas Castle, right Craigie Hall. Balmeny Stat, is in a cutting close to the shale-heaps of a paraffin oil distillery. On right 2 m. is the lodge of Dal- meny Park, the seat of the Earl of Eosebery : the house is modern. It is ornamented with fine Avoods and many noble trees growing close down to the Firth of Forth. The grounds are open to the general ]tublic every Monday. On the shore are the ruins of Barnh&iiglc Castle, sold by the Moubrays to the first of the Eosebery family in the 17th cent. L., a short waj'^ from the station is Dalnteny, a neat well-kept little village, with gardens in front of the cottages arranged round a green. Here is a ^Romanesque Church (re- stored in 1866), next to Leuchars the most perfect in Scotland, though the chancel and E. apse alone re- main in their original state. The windows are circular-headed, with tooth mouldings. The S. doorway is a circular arch of double mould- ings, one a row of monstrous heads, very singular, but much withered. Above the door is an arcade of 5 interesting round arches. In the interior the nave has been wretchedly modernised, but in the stone-vauited chancel there are 2 richly-sculptured circular arches, one at the entrance to the chancel and another at the junction of the apse, "which is lower than the rest of the ch. An ugly modern excrescence has been added to the N. side, to furnish space for the Eosebery pew, and the outer wall is flanked by 2 black tall stove-tubes !" The pilas- ters supporting the chancel arches C. Scotland. Route 14. — Quemsferry. 139 inside have been inhumanly hewn away to make room for pew-backs. The date of Dahneny is probably about the beginning of the 12tli centy. The ch. was attached to the Abbey of Jedburgh. There are several old tombs in the churchyard. [A little beyond Dalmeny is the lodge of Dwadas Castle, the situation of which is elevated, and commands fine views both up and down the Forth. After having been in the possession of one family (that of Dundas) since the days of Malcolm Canraore, it was sold in 1875 to the trustees of the late Mr. Russell of Blackbraes, The square old keep is now attached to a modern mansion, large and commodious, but of no architectural pretensions. In front is an old dilapidated fountain, carved with inscriptions in Latin verse. There is a short cut hence through the grounds to Kirkliston, l^ m.] The rly. descends from Dalmeny in a rock cutting down a steep de- cline, beyond which a fine view opens out of Firth of Forth, 200 ft. above which is Halves Stat., \ m. from the Steam- boat Pier, and the Hawes Inn (toler- able), very inconvenient for those who have luggage to be conveyed to the boat down flights of steep steps. At low tide the steamer cannot reach the pier, but tows a common ferryboat across the strait. A private convey- ance can be had by telegraphing to Inverkeithing. There are other piers . on the shore to the AV. , but that at Newhall or Hawes is most in use. 8^ m. South Queensferry Stat. This is a royal and pari, burgh of 1521 inhab., withal but a small place, at the foot of steep heights which hem in the Firth of Forth, at a point where the N. shore juts out, con- tracting the passage across the Firth to 2 miles. Steam ferry-boat crosses 8 times a day. Queensferry is so called from Margaret, sister of Edgar Atheling, wife of Malcolm Canmore, who was constantly travelling be- tween Edinburgh and Dunfermline. It was at one time the chief passage from S. Scotland. Oliver Cromwell crossed here with his forces 1651. It is a quaint little place, contain- ing a small simple Church, with plain stone barrel vault, once at- tached to a Carmelite priory, founded by Dundas of Dundas, 1330. About 2 m. from the stat. , W. , on the shore, near a little inn, is the entrance (always open) to the park and grounds of Hopetoun House, the residence of the Earl of Hopetoun, a fine Italian house (renovated by Adam). In the interior, which is not shown to the public, are paintings by Eiibcns (Adoration of Shepherds, one of his very finest w^orks) ; A. Guyp, The Manege, in a landscape ; Vandyke, Ecce Homo ; Tenters, The Painter, his Wife and Child, in a landscape ; etc. The grounds con- tain some remarkably fine specimens of cedar and abies, and the views from the gi'een terrace walk parallel to the Forth are superb, embracing the whole sweep of the Firth of Forth and the Ochil Hills between Stirling Castle and the Isle of May. It is a most stately domain, and the giant trees, the long umbrageous avenues, and the sunny Garden (shown when the family are absent), are hardly to be matched. Here are an Abies Morinda, 80 ft. high, and large cedars of Lebanon. Adjoining the park on the W. is the village of Ahercorn. The Church, originally very ancient, retains only one semi- circular chancel arch and a doorway, the rest being hideously modernised. Abercorn in the 7th cent, was the seat of an English bishop of the Picts. Still farther W. is Binns, the seat of Sir AV. DalzeU, Bart.] The traveller crosses the ferry (here about 2 m. wide) to 10^ m. North Queensferry, passing on right the fortified rock of Inch- garvie. It has been j)roposed to 14:0 Route 15. — Edlnhurrjh to Stirling by Water. Sect. II. carry a long high-level railway -bridge across, so as to supersede the passage from Grantoii to Burntisland, but the great depth of the channel and the enormous expense involved have hitherto prevented it. The Fife shore is more rocky and indented than the opposite one — and a cove to the W. of North Queensferry, known as St. IMargaret's Hope, is often used as a harbour of refuge in easterly gales, and at times receives the Channel Fleet. It is overlooked by the square keep of Bosyth Castle, which stands on a rock just off shore. See Scott's " Abbot." From N. Queensferry {Ba,il. in pro- gress) the road winds round the W. side of the Ferry Hills, where Crom- well and Lambert fought and gained the battle of Inverkeithing in 1651. The Ely. is carried along the S. side of the Ferry Hills. 13 ni. Inverkeithing {Inn : Royal Hotel, post-horses and cars), an ancient royal and parl}^ burgh, 1755 inhab., on a hill sloping down to a small bay, in which some ship- building is carried on. It was the residence of David I., seat of the Court and Parliament, and a house is still pointed out in which Arabella Drummond, Queen of Robert III., is said to have lived. The belfry of the Tower-house is Palladian. 2 m. farther we come in sight of the tower of Dunfermline Abbey, rising above the small houses on the outskirts of the town, and the long chimneys of the factories. Through deep cuttings the Ely. reaches 17 m. Dunfermline Sta. (Ete. 41). ROUTE 15. Edinburgh to Stirling, by the Forth, Alloa, and Cambus- kenneth.. A steamer leaves Granton Pier daily, according to the tide. In fine weather the run to Stirling is charm- ing — occupying from 4 to 5 hours, though the shallows up the river occasionally detain the boat longer. By PmH (Ete. 18) this journey is made in about 1^ hour. On leaving the pier the tourist has on left Lauriston Castle, once the residence of John Law, the Mississippi finan- cier, and right the watering-jjlace of Burntisland, and Aherdour (Earl of Morton), a ruined house of the 17th cent., beautifully situated in a wooded ravine (Ete. 40). A little off the coast, 1 m. to row in a boat, is Incheolm, alluded to by Eosse in his account of the victory over Sweno, King of Norway : — "Nor would we deign him burial of his men. Till he disbursed at St. Colme's Inch Ten thousand dollars to our general use." Macbeth, Act i. sc. 2. Holinshed says of this — "The Danes that escaped and got over to their ships, obteined of Makbeth for a great summe of gold, that such of their friends as were slaine might be buried in St. Colme's Inch. In memorie whereof, many old sepul- tures are yet in the said Inch, there to be seen graven with the arms of the Danes." Upon the island are the ruins of a Monastery founded in 1123 by Alexander I., who had been driven on the island by stress of weather, and fed by a poor hermit there, whom in gratitude he made the first Prior. In the time of Edward III. it had become so wealthy as to excite the cupidity of the Eng- lish fleet lying in the Firth. It was accordingly plundered, but the fleet was soon after overtaken by a storm, in which many of the ships foundered, and the rest were only too glad to return and make restitution. The ruins consist of a small church and some conventual buildings, an octa- gon Chapter-house, 22 ft. diameter, with stone roof (date 1263). W. of the church is a very ancient Cell or Oratory of rudest masonry, with a ■ct~ >■ I ^> '^'riiL * ^ /\\ ^^ -> Firth OF For L'H. Route 15. — BarnhougU ; Broomliall 141 slit window at the E. and a rude attempt at a stone vault, of the same primitive style as those on the W. coast of Ireland, and probably as old as the 9th cent, N. A little nearer are seen the ruined Oh. of Dalgctty, with a chapel at the W. end, in which Seton, its founder, lies buried, and the Castle of i)onibristle, once the residence of the Abbot of St. Colm, must have been humble at the best, where " the bonnie Earl of ]\Ioi-ay " was brutally murdered in 1592, by the Earl of Huntly, on pretence of exe- cuting a commission from the king, though in reality from private spite. On the left or S. side are seen Cramond Island, and amongst the woods is Dalmeny Park, the seat of the Earl of Rosebery. The house is not visible from this point. On the shore are the ruins of Barn- hougU Castle, an old house of the family of Moubray. It now belongs to Lord Rosebery (Rte. 14). At 7 m. the steamer passes through the strait known as Quecnsferry (Rte. 14), from a tradition that Queen Margaret, Avife of Malcolm Canmore, Avas wrecked here. The tolls of this ferry belonged at the Reformation to the Abbey of Dunfermline. In the middle of the passage is Inch- garvie, used at one time as a state prison. On right is Rosyth Castle, alluded to by Sir Walter Scott in his novel of the "Abbot." It was for- merly a castle of the Stuart family, and has over the gateway the initials M.R., 1561. On left, above the shore, may be seen Dundas Castle, succeeded by Hopetoun House (the Earl of Hopetoun) (Rte. 14.) Beyond this is Blackness Castle, for a long time used as a state prison, and one of 4 fortresses which by the Articles of the Union are to be kept fortified ; now a powder magazine. Opposite to Blackness, and near Rosyth, is the pier of Limekilns, whence an omnibus conveys passen- gers to Dunfermline, which is 3| m. distant. Adjoining it is Broomliall (Earl of Elgin), where there is a fine collection of pictures. Amongst them are — St. Sebastian, L. da Vinci, " great delicacy and decision of form;" portrait of a female, *S'. cli Piomho ; Holy Family, A. eld Sarto : St. Francis, A. Carracci ; Count Olivarez, Velasquez, etc. Here is preserved the sword of Robert Bruce ; his helmet also is shown, and the bed in which Charles I. was born at Dun- fermline. Close beyond is Charles- ton, celebrated for its limeworks ; then Crombie Point and the village of Ton-yburn. 15 m. left is the village of Bo'ness (shortened from Borrowstouness), a seaport on the Forth, whence iron and coal are largely exported. Here also are iron furnaces. A rly. runs hence to Airdrie and Glasgow (Rte. 14). Adjoining the town is Left — Kinneil House, a mansion of the Duke of Hamilton, and at one time the residence of Dugald Stewart. A little higher up, on the same side, is the port of Crrangertiouth, to which the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway Company have a branch. The cele- brated Carron Iromvorks are about 2 m. inland, Nearly opposite Bo'ness are the remains of Culross Abbey (pronounced Cooross), founded in 1217 by Mal- colm, Earl of Fife, for Cistercian monks. The tower remains, and the Gothic choir is partly used as a Parish Ch. In the N. aisle is a marble monument to Sir Geo. Bruce, with efiigies of him, his lady, and 7 children. Within the masonry is inserted the heart of Edward, 2nd Ld. Bruce of Kinloss, killed in a duel with Sir Edw. Sackville at Bergen -op -Zoom, 1614. Culross (though St. Muugo, the Glasgow saint, was born and educated here in the 6th centy.) Avas better known in Scotland for its manufacture of girdles for oat-cakes than for its eccles- 142 Route 15. — Edinburgh to Stirling by Water. Sect. II. iastical reputation. This peculi- arity is alluded to in the "Heart of Midlothian" — "The hammermen of Edinburgh are na' that bad at girdles for carcakes neither, though the Cu'ross hammermen have the gree for that," On a terrace above the sea, a little to the E. of the town, is the fine mansion of Culross Abbey, originally built by Sir Wm. Bruce of Kinross, the renovator of Holyrood Palace, afterwards repaired by Sir Robt. Preston of Valleyfield. It con- tains a room with a panelled roof, each panel decorated by a painting of one of the Virtues, and some inscriptions in Latin and English. Dunimarle Castle (Mrs. Sharp Erskine) is modern, and beside it is an Episcopal Chapel. 18 m. Kincardine Stat. (Inns : Commercial ; Unicorn) ; a small sea- port of nearly 3000 inhab., remark- able for nothing but being a very long way from the county of the same name. Some shipbuilding. 1 m. to the N. is TtdliaUan Castle, the modern seat of Lady Osborne Elphinstone, built by Adm. Lord Keith, 1820, in a beautiful Park. There are some remains of an older castle near it. On left is Airth Castle (W. Graham, Esq. ), with a strong tower, called Wallace's Tower, because built about the time of the battle of Falkirk. Airth, which is finely situated on a hill overlooking the Firth, is a somewhat modernised castle. The oldest portion consists of the tower, which has the distinctive features of a covered turret and a battlemented bartizan, and which dates from the 16th cent. Dunmore House, farther on, but nearer the shore, is the seat of the Earl of Dunmore, and contains a collection of pictures. The most im- portant are : — Portrait of Admiral - Capello, Tintoretto ; Orpheus and Eurydice bitten by the Asp, N. Poussin ; Charles I, and Henrietta Maria, D. Mytens ; Landscape, Hol- bein ; Soldiers maltreating Peasants, Rubens ; Altarpiece, A. Dilrer ; The Visitation, L. Caracci ; Perseus and Andromeda, Vandyck ; Martyrdom of St. Catherine, F. Vermxese ; Pea- sants with Garlands, Velasquez. As the river narrows, the beauty of the scenery is increased by the near approach of the Ochil Hills, an important range that runs from Stirling, through Kinrosshire, into Fifeshire. Their average height is over 2000 ft., and they belong to the old red sandstone formation. 20 m. Clackmannan Stat., right — the dull town of Clackmannan, the capital of the little county of the same name, stands on high gi'ound at some distance inland. At the end of the street is a strong Tower, 79 ft. high, said to have been built by Robert Brace, and now^ the property of the Earl of Zetland. It is not older than the loth centy., although there may have been a predecessor to it. Not far from Clackmannan is Kennet, a beautifully situated man- sion overlooking the Forth, in a domain which has belonged to a branch of the family of Bruce since the days of King Robert, now repre- sented by Alex. Hugh Biuce, Baron Burleigh. Alloa Jiinct. Stat. {Inn : Crown) ; a thriving and increasing town (Pop. 7510), with a small harbour and dock on the N. side of the Forth. Abundance of coal in its neighbour- hood renders it alive with numerous manufactories of woollen tartans, notably that of Paton and Co., Kiln- craigs, while it is particularly distin- guished for its extensive whisky distilleries and breweries of Ale^ iron foundries, and copper works. The Episcopal Church of St. John, Broad-street, was built by the Earl of Kellie, 1869, at a cost of £5000, and is a commod a peal of 6 bells. Firth OF Forth. Boiite 16. — Alloa; Camhushenneth Alley. 143 The Gothic Parish Church was built 1819. In the old churchyard stands the Tower of an older ch. In the Glebe Park, near the Masonic Hall, is the Museum of Nat. Hist, and Antiquities. In Bank-street are the Municipal Buildings. Eleanor Syme, Lord Brougham's mother, was born here. Bookselle7\ Lothian, Candle-street, publishes a useful Guide and Direc- tory of the town and county. On the E. side of the town, within the Park, not far from the mansion of the Earl of Kellie, rises the Toicer of Alloa, 89 ft. high, with walls 11 ft. thick, built in the 13th centy., and long a stronghold of the Earls of Mar. It formed part of their mansion, destroyed by fire 1800. Queen Mary spent some years here when a child, and two nights with Darnley in 1566. James I., when a boy, was birched by George Buchanan within its walls, having been educated here ; and Prince Henry, the king's eldest son, was also partly brought up at this place. Alloa Park, the modern mansion of the Earl of Kellie, built in 1838 and 1868, contains family portraits and relics, and extensive gardens have been laid out. Raihvay from Alloa to Stirling (Rte. 41) ; to Alva : — to Kmross, by Dollar and Rumbling Bridge. Railwaji to S. Alloa — ^wlience Steam Ferry across tlie Forth to a Branch Line leads into the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway. Steamer leaves N. side every hour, and S. side 20 min. past every hour, from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. (winter till 6) ; fare, 3d. Castle CamjJheU, near Dollar, half-an- hour by rail from Alloa, is well worth a visit (Rte. 41). The river now winds round ' ' the Links of Forth," so celebrated for their fertility that it is a popular saying in. the district that " a loop of the Forth is worth an earldom in the Noi-th." The land distance from Alloa to Stirling is 7 m., while the numerous and tortuous curves pro- long the navigation to nearly 20 m. Passing 2 small islands, known as Alloa and Tullibody Inches, there is seen on right Tullibody House (Lord Abercromby), the family seat but not birthplace of Sir Ralph. It is very plain, and somewhat insignificant for so good a situation. Beyond it is the mouth of the Devon, foul with mill-refuse, whose upper course is famous for its romantic scenery (Rte. 42). On the S. bank is Polmaise (Col. Murray), just beyond which the celebrated Bannock-burn falls into the Forth. The turns of the river now become more abrupt than ever, and the steamer is compelled to slacken speed to get round them. On right, a conspicuous object on the plain is Camhuskcnneth Abbey, founded by David I. in 1147, and at one time perhaps the richest abbey in Scotland. It consists now only of a very noble and substantial tower, a gateway, and a few fragments of walls. The staircase is sufficiently preserved to enable the visitor to ascend the tower ; the view from which is very fine, embracing the windings of the Forth for many miles, with the noble rock and castle of Stirling close by, backed up by the Grampian mountains and the Ochil Hills. The abbey and its estates were given at the Reforma- tion to the Earl of Mar, who pulled the greater part of the building down to erect his house at Stirling. The unfortunate James III. (d. 1488) and his Queen Margaret of Denmark were buried at Cambuskenneth, their remains having been discovered in 1864, and a monument has been put up to their memory by Her Majesty the Queen, as a "restoration of the tomb of her ancestors." On right is the Abbey Craig, spoiled by a strange modern monument to the memory of Wallace. The steamer now shortly reaches Stikling (Rte. 21). 144 Route 16. — Edinburgh to Glasgow. Sect. II. ROUTE 16. Edinburgh to Glasgow, by Lin- lithgow and Falkirk (Hail). 47 J m. 14 trains daily. Leaving Edinburgh b}' tlie Waver- ley Bridge Stat., the train glides be- neath the frowning rock of the castle, and through Princes-st. Gardens. A view is obtained of Donaldson's Hos- pital on the right, and, as the en- virons of the city are left behind, of the wooded slope of the Corstorphine Hills, dotted here and there with suburban villas. The large building on the face of the hill is a Convales- cent Hospital in connection with the Royal Infirmary. Ou the left, about 3 m. distant, are the brown ranges of the Pentland Hills. Passing left Saughton" Hall, the property of Sir James Gardiner Baird, Bart., but used as an asylum for the insane, the traveller reaches 3^ m. Corstorpliinc Stat. The vil- lage, some little distance to the N,, is charmingly placed on the slopes of the hill, from whence some of the finest views of the city are obtained. The Church is an interesting speci- men of Dec. style, built in the form of a cross, although it is apparently of an irregular design. At the W. stands a belfry -tower, with a foreign - looking octagonal spire. In the interior are seme monuments of the Forrester family, who founded this as a collegiate ch. in 1429, now repre- sented by Lord Verulam. The figures in the niche in tlie chancel are sup- posed to represent Sir John Forrester and his wife. In the neighbom'hood of Gogar, 54 m. , are Kellerstain ( W. Logan White, 'Esq.), Gogar House, and several other residences. 8^ m. Ratho Junct. Stat, with the Bathgate Ely. (Rte. 17). [An- other branch of 15 m. is given off to Kirkliston, Dalmeny, and South Queensferry (Rte. 14). The pedes- trian may follow a road on right leading through a wood, and past the old Peelhouse of Hallyards, to the Almond Water, across which there are stepping-stones, to Kirk- liston, 1| m. Here is a fine Ro- manesque Ch., much disfigured by modern alterations and additions. The former entrance was beneath a handsome circular arch, now blocked up. Field-Marshal the Earl of Stair, who lived at Newliston in the last centy., lies buried here, and the ch. contains monuments to him and the family. From Kirkliston, where is Stewart's large distillery, it is nearly 3 m. to Queensferry and 2 to Dal- meny (Ete. 18), passing Carlowrie (R. Hutchison, Esq.), famous for its large collection of well-grown Coni- fers. Near this the antiquary will find an inscribed stone called the Catstane']. Beyond Eatho, by a grand Viaduct of 36 arches, the line crosses the Almond Water that separates Lin- lithgowshire or West Lothian from Edinburghshire or Midlothian. On the right is Neidiston (T. A. Hog, Esq.), the former residence of the Earl of Stair, who had a hobby for arboriculture, and was said to have arranged his trees to represent the gi'ouping of regiments in certain battles. The rly. now passes through a cut- ting in the rocks, a gap in which (rt.) affords a glimpse of the ruined castle oi Niddry, where Queen Mary passed her first night after her escape from Lochleven. It then belonged to Lord Seton. 12 m. at Winchburgh Stat, the Union Canal appears, and runs parallel with the line. On the right are Hopetoun House (Earl of Hope- toun), Ete. 14, the village of Aber- corn, and Binns (Sir W. Dalzell, Bart.), (Ete. 18), together with an obelisk on Bonnington Hill in memory of General Hope,- who fell in the Indian mutiny. (5n the left is Qhampfleurie Park (E. H. Johnstone Stewart, Esq.) C. Scotland. Route 16. — Linlithgow ; Church. 145 18 m. Linlithgoio Stat. {Inn: Star and Garter, close to stat. Pop. de- creasing, 3690). Linlithgow or Litli- gow, "the lake of tiie winding stream," long a royal residence and place of importance, was made a royal burgh by David I. The town is old and irregular, with high-roofed houses, occasionally adorned with traces of sculpture. Its lake is a great ornament. No town in Scot- land has so many fountains, and the local rhyme speaks of " Litli- gow for \s-ells, Glasgow for bells, Peebles for clashes and lees, and Falkirk for beans and pease. " The fountain of St. Michael, with the figure of the archangel upon it, and the inscription, " St. Michael is kinde to strangers," is passed (1.) on the way from the stat. to the castle, 10 min. walk : farther on is the Cross Well, the facsimile of an older one, restored 1807. Passing up the hill between this well and the Town-house j'ou reach the Pre- cincts of the Palace and Church. They are entered by a fine castel- lated Gatevxiy, built by James IV. It is flanked by octagonal towers, and over tlie entrance are the coats of arms of the 4 orders of knighthood conferred upon that king by differ- ent sovereigns. They consist of — 1st, 3 lions (St. George of England) ; 2nd, 1 lion (St. Andrew of Scotland) ; 3rd, lions and castle (St. Philip of Leon and Castile) ; 4th, Fleur de Lis (of France), The Church, founded by David I., and dedicated to the Archangel jMichael, whose image may be seen at the S.W. angle, is perhaps the largest and best preserved Gothic parish ch. in Scotlaud. It owed much of its grandeur to Crichton, Bp. of Dunkeld. It has a handsome turreted Tower at the W. end, beneath which is a fine doorway, and there is a 2nd door on tlie S. side under a very ele- gantly arched Porch, having a watch- room above it. The tracery of the [Scotland.'] windows is very varied and elegant, especially that of the S. transept (St. Catherine's Chapel). The interior consists of 8 bays, with pointed arches, resting on piers furnished with shields of arms. It is hideously white-washed, and is divided by an ugly partition wall, only the chancel being used for service. It ends in a 3-sided apse of tall windows. The nave is stately and unusually wide. Notice the restored Flamboyant win- dow in the S. transept, called St. Catherine's Chapel. It was in this chapel that an apjiarition warned James IV. not to 2:)rosecute the war against England. The pointed roof, the clerestory of round arches (date 1424), enclosing double pointed ones, the carved shields attached to the piers and the bosses of the vault, and the W. doorway, deserve attention. In the vestiy is a well sculptured stone altarpiece representing the Passion and Betrayal of our Saviour. Edward I. halted at Linlithgow the night before the battle of Fal- kirk, in 1298 ; and while he was sleeping on the ground by the side of his charger, the horse put his foot iipon the king and broke two of his ribs. Three years afterwards Edward wintered here, and built a fort, on the site of which arose one of the favoiu'ite palaces of the later Stuarts. Though much altered in appearance by additions, it has in a great measm^e retained its original character, and is a good specimen of a fortified palace. Although the Palace is generally said to have groAvn out of the fort built by Edward I. , there seems no doubt that there was a royal castle here in the time of David I. The fort of Edward I. was taken in 1307, and demolished. The situation of the palace is pleasant ; it stands on a promontory of some elevation, which advances almost into the midst of the lake. n 146 Route 16. — LinUihgoio Palace. Sect. IL " Of all the palaces so fail-, Built for the royal dwelling In Scotland, far beyond compare, Liulitligow is excelling."— 5co«. A low portal flanked -o-ith turrets, stone vaulted and ribbed across, leads into the Courtyard. The tirst appearance of the interior of the quadrangle reminds those who have seen the ruins of Heidelberg of that castellated palace, which was in part built under the eye of one who had spent much of her earlier life in Linlithgow — Elizabeth, daughter of James VI., and Electress Pala- tine. This quadrangle is furnished with a round tower in each corner, and a fifth in the N. front opposite, each containing a corkscrew stair. The E. and W. sides are the oldest parts, and were built after the destruction of the place by fire in 1424. On the E. side was the original entrance, approached from with- out by a drawbridge (now re- moved) over the deep moat, which is still flanked below by the drums of 3 towers, said to be part of King Edward I.'s Fort. This gateway, on the side towards the courtyard, is faced with some rich niches and Gothic work of a later date. Beneath it yawns a deep dungeon. On the first floor is the great hall, 94 ft. long, lighted by 5 windows on each side, Avhile one end is entirely occu- pied by a fireplace and ornamented mantelpiece : at the other end it communicates with the kitchen, fur- nished with a fireplace nearly as wide. The hall communicated with the Cliapel in the S. wing, lighted by 6 lancet windoAvs. The lloyal Pew opened from a gallery a^Dove. On the W. side of the quadrangle were the private apartments, fitted u]> most probably, if not built, by James IV., the bower of whose qweeii, Mar- garet, is at the top of the tower stair- case. This room has a groined roof, and a slab commemorates its former occupant, in Sir W. Scott's lines : — " His own Queen Margaret, who in Lithgow's bower All lonely sat, and wept the weary hour." Here is the gloomy chamber where Queen Mary was born, 1542. Her father, James V., was lying in a dis- tant palace at the same time, only 30 years of age, but dying of a broken heart, after the disaster of Solway Moss and the dissensions which had led to it. When the news was brought him that the queen had been delivered of a girl, remembering that the Stuarts had gained the throne by marriage, he said, "Well, then, God's will be done ! it came with a lass, and it will go with a lass," and died soon after. Communi- cating with these rooms is a small private chapel and oriel win- dow looking down upon the lake. Galleries run round 2 sides of the building, partly formed in the thick- ness of the walls, for the passage of servants and retainers. At the W. end is the antechapel, and at the E. is the robing-room for the priests. A gallery runs round the top. The lower storey was devoted entirely to ofiices and stabling. The ruined Fountain in the centre of the quad- rangle is richly and boldly sculptured. The palace continued in a perfect state tmtil 1746, when it was occu- pied by General Hawley's dragoons the night of the battle of Falkirk (in which they were routed by Prince Charles Stuart), and was burnt by them. In the town of Linlithgow the Eegent Moray was shot, in 1570, by James Hamilton of Bothwell- haugh, from a house belonging to the Archbishop of St. Andrews, who, suspected of having been accessory to the crime, was put to death in consequence. The house has been pulled down. Bothwellhaugh's wife had become mad, in consequence of being ejected from her house by Patrick Home, an adherent of the Regent, on whom the forfeited pro- c. Route 16.— Falkirk; Trysts. 147 perty had been bestowed. Bothwell- haiigh. vowed vengeance for the in- jury, and choosing an opportunity when tiie Regent was passing slowlj'' in procession through the streets, fired on him from a balcony, at a distance of only 8 yards, with so sure an aim that the bullet passed through his stomach. His followers tried to burst into the house, but the doors were strongly barricaded, and the assassin slipped out in the rear, where a fleet horse, ready saddled, soon carried him out of reach. Avontoun House is the residence of W. Blair, Esq., and Muiravonside of A. Stirling, Esq. Linlithgow produces shoes and whisky, but is not a flourishing town. Distances. — Edinburgh, 18 m. ; Glasgow, 29 i; Stirling, 18; Falkirk, 9 ; Bo'ness, 3. About 3 m. W. of the town the Avon is crossed at Linlitligow Bridge, in 1526 the scene of a battle between the Earls of Angus and Lennox. There are also near here the scanty ruins of the Priory of Emmanuel, founded by Malcolm in 1156. Crossing the Avon and the rly. to Bo'ness, by a viaduct, the train arrives at 22] m. Pohnont Junct. Stat. Here a line branches to join the Caledonian Rly. at Larhert Stat., being the direct route from Edinburgh to Stirling. (Rte. 21.) A Tunnel. 25J m. Falkirk Stat. The pari, borough of Falkirk lies on the right. {Inns: Red Lion, Crown.) Pop. 9547. it is a busy town, consisting chiefly of one long street, and has of late years acquired importance from its situa- tion on the coalfield, as testified by the number of blazing ironworks and collieries. In the town is a very handsome spire, 130 ft. high. His- tory gives account of two battles of Falkirk : 1. Fought on the 22nd of July 1298, between Edward L and Wallace, in which the latter was defeated ; a spot called Wallace's Stone, on a hill, 3 m. E. of the town, is supposed to mark the scene. 2. The battle of Falkirk Muir, between Prince Charles Stuart and General Hawley, on the 17th January 1746, in which Charles was victorious. In the ch.-yd. lie Sir John Graham and Sir John Stewart, killed in the first battle on the side of the Scotch, — and Sir Robert Munro, and his brother Dr. Munro, killed in the second on the side of the English. Falkirk is chiefly celebrated for its ^^ Trysts'' or fairs for cattle, sheep, and horses ; of these there are three, held in August, September, and October, on Stenhouse Moor, about 3 m. N.W. of the town. About 300,000 head of cattle are sold on these occasions, and are brought great distances — ponies from Shet- land, sheep from Ross and Suther- land shires, and horned cattle from the western islands. Falkirk, lying between the Edin- burgh and Glasgow and Edinburgh and Stirling Railways, has a station uj)on both lines. In the neighbourhood of the town are Westquarter House (T. L. F. Liv- ingstone, Esq.), and Callendai' (W. Forbes, Esq.), formerly a seat of the Earls of Callendar, whose title Avas forfeited in 1716, and the grounds of which contain portions of the Roman wall of Antoninus. 2 m. to the IST. on the Carron Water, are the blazing furnaces of the Carron Ironworks, among the oldest in Scotland. From this place is derived the name of a now old-fashioned piece of ordnance, " the Carronade," first made here. On the Carron, not far from Fal- kirk, stood ^^ Arthur's Oven or Oon,'' a mysterious building, forming a dome 21 ft. high, of regular masonry, sup- posed to -have been Roman, perhaps a tomb. It was ^Dulled down about 148 Ftoute 16. — EcUnhurgh to Glasgoic. Sect. II. 1750 by a stupid laird to build a milldam ! On quitting Falkirk most pleasing views are obtained N. in clear wea- ther over the Ochil Hills, the rich vale of the Forth, with Ben Ledi and Ben VoMich behind. 28| m. Bonnyhridge Junct. Stat. Between Falkirk and Castlecary is Greenhill Junct. Stat. (Caledon. Ely.), leading from Carlisle (Car- stairs Junct., Rte. 5) to Stirling, Perth, and Dundee (Scottish Cen- tral). The line of the rly. here becomes identical with that part of the Roman Wall of Antoninus, commonly known in Scotland as G-rimcs, or Gh-ahaitts Dyke. This Wall was built during the Roman occupation by Lollius Urbicus, with the intention of shut- ting off the Lowlands from the wild tribes to the north, and extended from the Forth at Kinneil to the Clyde at Kilpatrick, near Dumbarton (Rte, 23), a distance of 27 m., in which it was guarded and strength- ened by 10 forts. We know the names of three of the legions em- ployed on the work — II. "Augusta ;" VI. "Victrix;" and XX. " Yalens, Victrix." An inscribed stone, now in Glasgow College, preserves the name of Lollius Urbicus. Cross the vale of the Red Burn on a Viaduct. 31 1 m. at Casthcary Stat, named from one of the forts on the line of the wall of Antoninus, the line leaves Stirlingshire and enters the county of Dumbarton, obtaining on the right very pleasant views of the Kilsyth Hills, the highest point of which is Tourtain, 1484 ft. 35| m. Croy Stat. [To the right 2 m. is the town of Kilsyth (pop. 6000). The old Castle stood upon the line of the Roman road, and was probably at one time one of its protecting forts. Its tower is still inhabited. Kilsyth was the scene of a battle in 1645, when Mon- trose gained a mcst complete victory over the Covenanters, putting 6000 of them to the sword. Colzium, a little to the W. of the battle-field, is a seat of the Edmonstones.] Rt. — The long Gothic edifice, with chapel and, spire, erected 1874, is a Convalescent Hosintal for Glasgow. Coal-pits occur right and left of the line, near 41 m. Lenzie Junct. Stat., a vil- lage composed in part of neat small villas. [Hence a branch of 5i m. leads to Lennoxtown, passing 2 m. Kirkintilloch, an ancient little town on the banks of the Luggie, near its confluence with the Kelvin, possess- ing traces of a Roman fort in the shape of a mound and ditch. There is a beautiful view from it of the Campsie Fells, a eliarming and pic- turesque range of hills that forms the northern background of Glasgow, and constitutes one of its chief places of holiday resort. 3^ m. right at Mil- town, where the Glazert is crossed, are the large printworks of Kincaid. 5i m, Lennoxtown is a considerable village, dependent on various print, bleaching, and alum works. Some little distance to the E., at the foot of Lairs Hill, and near Glorat (Sir Chas. E. F. Stirling, Bart.), are the remains of two circular forts, which might have been outposts of the Roman wall. Lennox Castle is the beautiful seat of the Hon. C. Han- bury-Kincaid-Lennox, and was built from designs by Hamilton of Glas- gow. From Lennoxtown, where the rly. ceases, a walk of a mile will bring the visitor to Camjme, a plea- sant little village at the entrance of the Camp.sie Glen, a charming and beautiful bit of scenery. The Kirk Burn, a tributary of the Glazert, rushes down through the defile, forming at Craigie Linn a waterfall about 50 ft. high. There is another equally pretty bit a little to the W. C. Scotland. Route 16. — Coiclairs — Glasrjoiv. 149 at the Fin Glen. The Camjjsie Fells, which give so much variety to the scenery around Glasgow, consist of igneous rocks, "along the S. flank of which the successive sheets of ancient lava may be traced by the eye from a distance of several miles, rising above each other in bends of dark rock and grassy slope." — Geikie. The rly. is continued through the heart of the Campsie Hills to Strathblane and the little town of Killearn, which is only 2^ m. from Drymen Stat, on the Fortli and Clyde Junct. Ely. (Rte. 22). At Killearn was born Geo. Buchanan, the historian ; died 1582, and buried in the Grey friars Ch., Edinburgh.] Between Lenzie Junct. and 44 m. Bishopbriggs Stat, the peak of Benlomond is visible on riffht. Cowlairs Junct. Stat. (rt. Eaily. to Helensburgh, Rte. 19) is a sulaurb of Glasgow, which got its name in the days cattle were driven by the road, and rested here for the market. Here the workshops of the X.B. Rly. Company are placed. Thence down a steep incline, and through a long triple tunnel, by means of a wire rope attached to the train, to 47^ m. Glasgow Terminus, near George Square. Glasgow. — Hotels: considering its large population, and the immense number of visitors, either on business or pleasure, it cannot boast of very excellent hotel accommodation. The best are — the Queen's, Eoyal, N'orth British, George, Clarence, and Cale- donian, all in George-square, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Post- office and the Edinburgh rly. stats. ; M 'Lean's, St. Yincent-st. (good and quiet family hotel, but expensive) ; Macrae's, Bath-street (good) ; AVaver- ley Temperance H., Buchanan-street (moderate). Episcopal Churches. — In connec- tion with the Ch. of England — St. Jude's, Blythswood-square, and St. Silas's, West-end Park. Scotch Episcopal Ch. — St. Andrew's, \Yillow Acre, Green ; Christ Ch., Mile -end ; St. John's, Dumbarton Rd., Ander- ston ; St. IMary's, Holyrood Cres- cent ; St. Ninian's, South-side ; St. Paul's, Buccleuch-st. Clubs. — Western, Buchanan - st. Strangers may be introduced by a member ; New Club ; Junior Club. The Post-office is on the S. side of George-square. Luncheon Rooms. — Lang,73 Queen- street, near the Exchange, an ad- mirably managed establisliment. Everything good of its kind, and clean. You may have your choice of 100 kinds of sandwiches, all fresh cut.— Moderate charges. Everything tasty and appetising for lunch — from grouse sandwiches to toasted cheese, mutton pies to strawberries and cream, and excellent coffee — is laid out for the hungry guest, who may draw his own bitter beer or glass of sherry, or sip his coffee at discretion. Scott, also in Queen-st., Duncan, and Ferguson and Forrester, both in Buchanan-st., are recommended. Stark, 41 Queen-st., is a good eating- house. Confectioner. — Forrester, Gord ou- st, famous for cakes. Photograjplur. — Thos. Annan, 77 Sauchiehall-st., made the very best likeness of Dr. Livingstone. Guide Books, Majys, and Photo- grainhic Views. — Thos. IMurray and Son, Buchanan Street, who publish the best Railway Time -Tables for Scotland. Piailway Termini. — A. The Xorth British Rly. Stat, (for Edinburgh and the jSTorth, Helensburgh and 150 Bouie 16. — Glasgou Sect. IT. Loch Lomond, Stirling, Perth, Dun- dee, Aberdeen), at the N.W. corner of George-square. B. The Caledonian Ely. Stat, (for Carlisle and London, Lanark, Edin- burgh, Stirling, and the North) is situated at the head of Buchanan Street. A New Central Stat, in Gordon St. is projected. C. The Glasgow and South- Western (for Paisley, Greenock, Ayr, Dumfries, and Carlisle) on S. side of Clyde, in Bridge Street, near Glasgow 13ridge. D. The Hamilton Ely. Stat, (also Caledonian) a little to the S. of C, and over Stockwell Bridge. E. North British Ely., Airdrie Branch, Old College Stat., High St. F. The Dunlop-st. Stat., near Arg}dl-st. (Glasgow Union Ely. ), con- veying passengers across the Clyde to Bridge-st., Greenock, direct by Paisley, and to Ayrshire. Glasgoiv,tlie commercial metropolis of Scotland, and the most important seaport, stands on the river Clyde, 60 m. from the sea. (Pop., 1871, 477,144, say 500,000.) It rivals Liverpool in its shipping, Manchester in its cotton-spinning, Newcastle in its coal, the Thames and the Tyne in its iron sliipbuilding, and Merthyr and "Wolverhampton are equalled by its iron furnaces, while the industry and perseverance of its inhabitants has converted the shallow Clyde into a broad and deep dock for a navy of merchant ships of 1000 and 1500 tons, lined with 8 miles of Quay, created at a total cost of 51 millions sterling. In addition to all this it was the cradle of the steam-engine, James "Watt's invention having been perfected here. Although, after the romantic posi- tion of Edinburgh, that of Glasgow must seem flat and monotonous, it is in reality very advantageously, and, to a certain extent, picturesquely situated on either bank of the Clyde; the southern suburbs known as Gor- bals. Hutch eson|;own and Tradeston, bearing the same relation to the city as Southwark does to London. The northern portion, which is laid out in long and regular streets crossing at right angles, rises up a considerable slope, while, stretching away to the "W., at a few miles' distance, are ranges of hills, forming a good background. It suflters from the misfortune of an atmosphere almost always, even in summer, tainted Avith dense smoke, and a very rainy climate,to compensate which it enjoys a supply of the purest water in Europe, brought direct from Loch Katrine, 1859. {See Introd. to Sect. II.) Argyll-street, which is nearly 3 m. long, including its continuations the Trongate and Gallowgate, is the main thoroughfare, and is in general, espe- cially after working hours, densely crowded. Buchanan-street is better built, and from its being the locality of the gayest shops, is the great centre of attraction. George-st. is another avenue extending the whole length of the city, and passing through George-square, which is generally the stranger's first point, because it is central, and close to the two great railway stations. It contains the Post-office on its S. side, and several hotels. It has little claim to atten- tion for either its architecture or sculpture, although it encloses nume- rous Public Statues to great person- ages — the Queen, an equestrian figure by Marochetti (not very successful), W., and Prince Albert, E., Sir "^Valter Scott, raised on a doric column 80 ft. high; in the centre is Sir John Moore (a native), b)^ Flaxman ; S. Lord Clvde, James AVatt, and Sir Robt. Peel ; S.E., Dr. Graham. In summer and autumn, the seasons when strangers mostly visit Glasgow, its dwelling - houses are generally shut up, and their inhabit- ants are "down the water," in some of the many marine villages on the C. Scotland. Route 16. — Glasgow Cathedral. 151 Clyde, the ready access to which is a convenience that few places possess in so great a degree. Avery pretty park has been laid out by the Corporation at Kelvin Grove, at a cost of over £100,000, from de- signs by the late Sir Joseph Paxton. The visitor to it may at the same time see the Botanic Gardens, Kibble's Crystal Palace, and the Observatory, which are in the neighbourhood. The older part of Glasgow is at the E. and N.E., 'where the visitor will find the old College (now a railway station) and the Cathedral, with specimens of cha- racteristic Scotch closes and wynds, one inspection of which is gener- ally sufficient, and an incredible number of whisky-shops that crowd the lower class of streets. The two objects of greatest interest in Glasgow lie at its opposite extre- mities, about 2 m. apart — the Cathe- dral, which far surpasses anything else, at the E., and tlie Park and New College at West End. On the way from the one to the other, the stranger may look at the Necropolis, the Old College, the Saltmarket (for the sake of Bailie Nicol Jarvie), the river Clyde at the Broomielaw, and one of the iron shipbuilding yards and machine manufactories. To reach the Cathedral you pass the Royal Infirmary, in the vicinity of which are the Barony Church and the Barony Free Kirk, a well-designed modern Gothic edifice. The **Cathedral, dedicated to St. Mungo or Kentigern, tlie finest Gothic edifice in Scotland, stands in a commanding position in the N. E. of Glasgow, which it overlooks, " and shares the distinction of being one of the two or three Scottish cathe- drals which have been spared to modern days in a comparatively per- fect state. " It is indeed a venerable and beautiful building — "a brave , kirk — nane o'yourwhigmaleeries and curliewurlies and opensteek hems about it — a' solid, weel-jointed mason - wark, that will stand as lang as the world, keep hands and gunpowther dff it." — Scott. The bishopric was first restored, and the original cathe- dral built,, by David I. in 1136. It was burnt down in 1192, and the present building, begun soon after by Bishop Jocelyn, was sufficiently advanced to be consecrated in 1197. lu James IV. 's reign the see of Glas- gow was declared Metropolitan, and tlie building of the cathedral went regularly forward, although even up to the time of the Reformation it was still unfinished. In 1579 the Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magistrates to have it destroyed, and workmen were assembled for the purpose, when the corporations of the city rose in arms and prevented its destruction. " And sae the bits o' stane idols were taken out of their neuks, broken in pieces by Scripture warrant, and flung into the Molen dinar biirn, and the auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed aff her, and a'body was alike pleased." — Scott. But after that time the fortunes of the building were on the wane, and it became more and more neglected, until 1829, when public attention was strongly drawn to its dilapidated state. Since then, public and private generosity, aided by gi'ants from the crown, to which the cathedral belongs, have contributed to restore it. The cathedral, as it at present stands, consists of a nave with aisles, transepts, and choir, the transepts being so short that the ex- ternal symmetry is scarcely broken at all by their projection. The roof of the nave is high-pitched, and the general character of the windows is that of E. Eng. lancets, particularly on the N. side ; while on the S. they are more recent, of a greater width, and have their heads formed of 3 trefoil circles. " The crypt and the whole choir belong to the latter part of the 13th centy., the nave to the 14th, The central aisle never having 152 Route 16. — Glasgoio Cathedral. Sect. II. been intended to be vaulted, the architect has been enabled to dis- pense with all pinnacles, flying but- tresses, and such expedients, and thus to give the whole outline a degree of solidity and repose which is extremely beautiful. " — Fergussons Architecture. From the S. transept projects a low basement storey, form- ing a continuation of the crypt. The cathedral is entered by a door in the S. aisle : it is 155 ft. long by 62 broad, not including the aisles. Be- fore the Reformation it was divided into 2 parts, and service was held in both. Here Cromwell sat, Oct. 1650, to hear himself railed at and called "Sectary and ]51asphemer," by the celebrated Dr. Zachary Boyd, in a discourse 2 hours long. The nave is stately and well-proportioned, 90 ft. high, with a triforium of 2 arches to each bay, and a (deres- tory. A carved screen separates the nave from the choir, which is entered by a low elliptic-arched doorway. On both sides are steps with a carved balustrade, leading down to the crypt. The choir, 95 ft. long, still used as the parochial High Ch., is an ex- quisite example of E. pointed ; it is attributed to Bishop Jocelyn, and to the date 1175, although it more pro- bably belongs to the latter part of the 13th cent. It is separated from the aisles by pointed arches springing from clustered pillars with flowered capitals, while those of the nave and Lady Chapel are plain. What ought to be the organ-loft is supported on a row of pointed arches with double shafts of wood (modern). The lover of cathedral service can scarcely help regretting the absence of the organ ; but the ' ' kist of whistles " was re- moved at the Reformation, and has not yet been replaced, but it is ex- pected that ere long an instrument worthy of the building will be erected. The choir is lighted by a clerestory of beautiful narrow 4-light windows. To the E. is the Lady Chapel, a double cross aisle, supported on 3 piers, and opening into the choir through 2 graceful arches behind the altar. Ad- joining it on the N.E. is the Chapter- house, a square, resting on one cen- tral shaft. The *Cryiit is the j)ride and boast of the cathedral ; and certainly its peculiarities are such as to make it a unique example of the kind. It is in the style of the 13th cent.; and as the ground falls rapidly to- wards the E., the architect could give it all the height and light that he required, while it served, at the same time, as a basement storey to the choir, beneath which it extends for 125 ft. "The solidity of the architecture, the intricacy of the vaulting, and the correctness of its proportions, make it one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in the kingdom." In the centre of the crypt is the shrine of St. Mungo, containing the headless and handless efligy of the saint. At the S.E. cor- ner is St. Mungo's Well, now covered up, and next to it is the burial-place of "Ane honourable Avoman, Dame Colquhoun, who died" — the rest of the inscription being illegible. In this crypt is interred the pious but eccentric Rev. Edw. Irving, who d. at Glasgow, Dec. 1834. His grave is marked by a brass plate, and the window above it is occupied by the figure of John the Baptist, of austere character, by Bertini of Milan. The crypt was used as a place of worship for the parishioners of the Barony down to 1820. "Conceive an extensive range of low-browed, dark, and torchlight vaults, such as are used for sepulchres in other countries, and had long been dedi- cated to the same purj)Ose in this, a portion of which was seated with pews, and used as a ch. The part of the vaults thus occupied, though capable of containing a congregation of many hundreds, bore a small pro- portion to the darker and more ex- tensive caverns which yawned around Glasgow. Route 16. — Old College ; Saltmarket. 153 what may be termed the inhabited space." — Rob Roy. Besides the restorations which Glasgow Cathedral has undergone, the visitor will particularly notice the Stained Glass, Avhich for profusion excels any building in the British Isles. The proposal thus to orna- ment this ch. was warmly responded to, both by private and public generosity, the cost of the whole amounting to about £100,000. The greater portion of the glass has been executed at Munich, although the crypt and chapter-house contain specimens of British work. As the visitor can buy for 2d. a complete guide to each window, it will be suf- ficient to give here the general ar- rangement. Commencing at the N. angle of the nave, are scenes from the earl)'^ portions of the Old Testament, the magnificent west window (contributed by the Bairds) being filled with four subjects from the History of the Jews, viz., the Law Giving, the Entrance into the Promised Land, the Dedica- tion of the Temple, and the Captivity of Bab5don. North transept window, given by the Duke of Hamilton : subject, the Prophets. South trans. : from the Lives of Noah, Isaac, and Christ. The choir : a series of the Parables. The great East window : the 4 Evangelists. The Lady Chapel : the Apostles. The Crypt : subjects from the New Testament. The re- sult shows that an indiscriminate application of i:)ainted glass to all the openings obscures and conceals the beauty of the Gothic details of the interior, which now cannot be pro- perly seen for want of light ! The churchyard around the cathe- dral is literally paved mth acres of stone slabs, memorials of the fore- fathers of the city. On the opposite hill to the cathe- dral, and separated from it by the Molendinar Bui-n, now a foul stream, is the Necropolis, crowded ^vith every variety of monument and tomb, some of them of the most costly material and workmanship, but few in good taste, rising tier over tier. The most conspicuous, and one of the worst, is a statue of John Knox, surmounting a stumpy Doric column. Many are of classic design and good proportions, of granite and marble. Ohs. those to Rev. Geo. Middleton, an obelisk to Chas. Tennant of St. Eollox, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. The view from this point is very com- manding, and extends over the city, the cathedral, and the river crowded with shipping. Descending the hill from the Cathedral to the High-street, you come to the Old College, purchased 1868 for £100,000, and converted into the North British Union Rail- uay Station. It is a black smoke- stained, heavy building, but not without some interest as a specimen of Scottish architecture of the reigns of Charles I. and II., 1632-62, with stone balconies, windows topped with frontlets, tall chimneys set corner to corner and extinguisher turrets. It consists of 2 courts ; in the first one a picturesqiie outer stair leads to the hall, and between the courts rises a tall tower. Over the inner archway is a figure of Zachary Boyd, the same who was paid oft" by Cromwell in his own coin of dreary ranting. The space behind, originally the College garden, is the scene of the duel be- tween Frank and Rashleigh Osbal- distone in Rob Roy. Following the dii'ty High-st., the Trongate is reached, in which remark the old Town-hall, which includes the range of which the Tontine Hotel is a part. In the open space in front is an equestrian statue of "William III. Near it, at the crossing of 4 streets, is the Cross Steeple, a tower containing a chime of 28 bells, occupying the site of the old Tol- booth (the prison described in Rob Roy) and the Tron Steeple^ which 154 Pioute 16. — Saltmarket — Picture Gallery. Sect. II. projects across the pavement, and dates from 1637. Dr. Chalmers preached in the ch. behind for many years. The Tron was a public weigh- ing machine, to which the owners of false weights were nailed by the ears. The Saltmarket, now a low, crowded street, Avith a large percentage of whisky-shops, was at one time the fashionable jjart of the city, though now degraded to a sort of Rag-fair. Here dwelt Bailie Nicol Jarvie, the Lowland cousin of Rob Roy. James Duke of York also lodged here, and the great printers of the day, Robert and Andrew Foulis, had their book auctions ; and it was the very centre of attraction for the Glasgow mer- chants, whose dealings in tobacco far surpassed those of any other city in the kingdom. They perpetuated their calling in many of the names of the streets, such as Jamaica-street, Virginia-street. In High-street, Thomas Campbell the poet was born, but the house has long since been removed. Sir John Moore, the Gen- eral, was born in the Trongate. The Candleriggs, the Goose-dubs, and the Gorbals (the last on the S. side of the Clyde), are the classic names of other streets, peculiar to Glasgow. By turning to the right down the Saltmarket, passing the Jail and Justiciary Courts, the visitor will reach the Green, an open space front- ing the Clyde, with a column in the centre to the memory of Nelson. It will ever be memorable as the place in which Watt was Avalking one Sunday when the idea of the sepa- rate condenser, involving the prin- ciple of his steam-engine, occurred to him. The Roijal Exchange, in Queen Street, is a very elegant piece of architecture, though the situation is rather confined. The portico consists of 12 fluted Corinthian columns, supported by a rich frieze and pediment. The N. and S. sides of the building are ornamented with a handsome colonnade of similar columns. It was erected from the designs of Mr. Hamilton in 1829. The reading-room is open to stran- gers, whose names are put down by subscribers, for 30 days, and after that period on payment of 5s. a month. The equestrian statue in front is that of the Duke of Wel- lington, by Marochetti ; the pedestal has representations in bronze of the Duke's principal victories. Several of the banks, such as the National, Union, British Linen Company, etc. , are fine specimens of street arclii- tectm-e. The Corporation Gallery of Art, 206 Sauchiehall-st., is a collection of pictures formed by Archibald M'Lellan, a coachmaker, in 1854, and purchased for the town by the magistrates of Glasgow from his creditors. The best pictures are, Christ's Entry into Jerusalem — Alb. Guyi^. Saviour Asleep, watched by the Virgin — Murillo. Town of Katwyk — J. Ruysdacl, an admirable work. Landscape with Figures — Wynants. Sea-piece — Vandervclde. Peasants before a House — Teniers. Landscape with Rocks, called Wou- vermans, more probably Lingelhach. Virgin, Child, and St. George — Paris Bordone. Landscape — Claude Lor- raine. Landscape with Fishermen — J. Ruysdael. The sky is very beautiful, and the execution more than usually careful ; but the pic- ture, like many here, is much injured by cleaning. Landscape with Cattle — Teniers. Landscape — Hohhema. St. George and a man, portraits, part of an altar-piece — Mabusc. A Woman seated by a Cradle, with 2 Children — Nic. Maar. The Woman taken in Adultery — Bonifazes (Waa- gen says Giorgione). The Virgin Enthroned, with St. Sebastian and other Saints ; fine landscape back- ground. There are also a statue of Pitt by Flaxman, and a series of C. Scotland. Route 16. — Glasgoiv University. 155 portraits of English kings, which were formerly in the Town-hall. Hutcliesori's Hospital, in Ingram Street, was founded in 1641 by two brothers of that name. Its income has been increased by various bene- factors, and now amounts to £3000 per annum, which is spent in pen- sions to decayed burgesses, and in educating about 100 boys, sons of freemen of the city. The buildings of the hospital form a handsome range, ornamented with Corinthian columns. From the rear rises a tower, 150 ft. high, with a pyramidal spire on the top. The Xeio University, on Gilmore Hill, is best approached through the West-end Park, above whose noble trees its towers and long facade rise Avith great effect. A considerable circuit is avoided by taking the foot- path from the Bridge over the Kel- vin, and walking up to it ; carriages must go round. The platform on which it stands commands a fine view in clear weather. It is a handsome Gothic edifice, extending 600 ft. in front, to be surmounted tiy a well-proportioned central tower 310 ft. high, and was opened 1S70, though incomplete. It is to form 2 quadrangles, but as yet only 3 sides of a square are built, wliicli will be divided into two courts, whenever funds can be found for the central building, which is to contain the hall and chapel. Doubt- less the millionaire merchants and manufacturers of Glasgow will not allow an edifice so grand and so useful to remain incomplete. The design of the college is by Sir G. G. Scott, R.A. It will cost upwards of £400,000, of which £100,000 were raised by sale of the old college, situated in the lowest and worst part of the toAvn, and most unfit for the ren- dezvous of young students ; £120,000 were granted by Parliament, and £140,000 were raised by private sub- scription. £80,000 are needed to finish it properly. So long as it re- mains incomplete, the Hunterian Museum, containing, apart from its anatomical preparations, a fine-art collection — paintings by old masters, coins, libraryof valuable MSS., books, including many Caxtons — lies closed up in boxes. The E. side is devoted to medical and chemical classes, laboratories, etc. On the N. side are the library, 100,000 vols., and reading-room and mirseum ; on the ground-floor and above, the Hun- terian Museum and library Avill eventually be placed. It contains a good collection of paintings (includ- ing works of Rembrandt, Rubens, and S. Rosa), portraits by Kneller of Dr. Arbuthnot, and of Sir Isaac Newton. Murillo, The Good Shep- herd. Reinhrandt (or Koningk), Dutch Landscapes. Sir Josh. Rey- nolds, portraits of Ladies Maynard and Hertford. Very select and valuable is the collection of Greek and other coins. There are nume- rous anatomical curiosities, together with a statue of James "Watt, and a model of Newcomen's steam-engine, repaired by Watt himself, and thus associated with his discoveries. Glasgow University was founded by the exertions of Bishop Turnbull, its first principal, confirmed by a bull of Pope Nicholas V. in 1 450. For a long time it seems to have been almost destitute of endowments, though a building was erected on a site in the High-street as early as 1460 ; and at the time of the Reformation its con- dition was far from flourishing. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it wdth a moiety of the confiscated church property in the city. This was in- creased by the coqDoration, and added to by succeeding monarchs. An impulse was given to its fame and efiiciency by the advent, 1574, of Andrew Melville, the friend of Knox, as a teacher, but the build- ings remained mean and incomplete 156 Route 1 6. — Chjde — Broomielaw. Sect. II. until about 1632, from which time dates the chief part of the okl college. As a seat of learning it reached the height of its fame during the last cent., when it numbered among its teachers Cullen and Black in medi- cine and chemistry, Dr. W. Hunter in anatomy, Eeid in mental philo- sophy. " Here Adam Smith taught doctrines which have changed the policy of nations, and Watt perfected discoveries that have subdued the elements to be the ministers of man- kind." Thos. Campbell, Fr. Jeifrey, Sir Wm. Hamilton, and John Gibson Lockhart were students here. Not far from the University, in the AV. road, is the Botanic Garden, first organised by Dr. Hooker, on the banks of the Kelvin. The University is governed by a Chancellor, elected for life, a Rector elected triennially, and subordinate officers. The Eector is almost in- variably a man of mark in the politi- cal or literary world, and is elected by Glottianm, comprehending those born in Lanarkshire ; Transforthance, those north of the Forth ; Rothsiance, counties of Renfrew, Bute, and Ayr ; and Loudoniance, those not already included. The other principal educational establishments of Glasgow are — the Glasgow Academy, the High School, and the Andersonian University, founded by John Anderson in 1797, and principally devoted to the study of medicine and physics. The Clyde, which from the noisy cataract of Corra Linn (Rte. 8) has become a sedate and sober stream, is crossed by 5 or 6 Bridges. The lowest one, of 7 arches, called Glas- gow Biidge, overlooks the quay of the Broomielaw or river bank, once overgrown with Broom, running alongside the broad and deep channel of the Clyde, crowded with vessels, bristling with steam funnels, one of the most remarkable sights in Glas- gow. It is almost entirely an arti- ficial canal, the river having been originally a broad shallow stream, which only continual dredging (a work still carried on) has made capable of holding the largest vessels, thus affording a strong contrast to its shallowness in 1651 , "when no vessel of any burden could come up nearer the town than 14 miles, where they must unlade and send up their timber on rafts." The depth at high-water is now about 20 ft. Besides all these, Dry Docks, Graving Docks, and Bashis on the largest scale have been constructed, opening into the river by lock-gates at Stobcross, etc. The engineer was John F. Bateman, Esq. The registered shipping in Glasgow, 1873, amounted to 892 vessels of 460,592 tons, 215,602 being steam tonnage. One result of modern improvement has been to convert the Clyde into a foul, offen.sive, and muddy sewer, thus confirming the forebodings of Tom Campbell, who thus wi-ites : — " And call they this Improvement ? to have changed, Sly native Clyde, thy once romantic shore. Where Nature's face is banish'd and estranged, And Heaven reflected in thy wave no more ; Whose banks, that sweeten'd May -day's breath before, Lie sere and leafless now in summer's beam. With sooty exhalations cover'd o'er ; And for the daisied greensward, down. thy stream. Unsightly brick lanes smoke and clank- ing engines gleam." The tourist will have an opportunity of noticing, during a trip down the river to Greenock, the number and extent of the ShiiJhuilding Yards on the Clyde, which have increased to such an extent as to make this trade one of the specialities of Glasgow. In 1871 200 vessels, chiefly iron, with a tonnage of 196,000, and a value of more than £4,000,000, were built on the Clyde between Ruther- glen and Greenock. Next to the ship-yards in promi- 0. Scotland. Route 16. — Glasgoiv Manufactures. 15' nence are the Chemical Works of the Tennauts, at St. Rollox (a little to the N. of the cathedral), which cover an area of 16 acres, and are conspicuous for the lofty Chwmey, 435 ft. in height, that carries off the deleterious fumes from more than 100 retorts and fur- naces. They supply sulphuric acid, chloride of lime, soda, and other chemicals used in manufactures. Still higher is the chimney in Crawford-st, Port-Dundas,belongingtoTownsend's Chemical artificial - manure works, which is 454 ft. high, and 50 ft. dia- meter at base, i.e., the loftiest build- ing in the world, save the spire of Strasburg and the great Pyramid. The West Indian trade, which was formerly the staj)le of Glasgow, has given place to that of cotton and calico-printing, which is carried to a great extent in the suburbs and neighbouring towns. From its prox- imity to the coalfields, the iron manufacture has become an import- ant feature in Glasgow commerce. The machinery and engine-works of Messrs. Napier are among the most extensive here. "The rapidity of the progi'ess of the city may be inferred from the following facts. In 1735, though the Glasgow merchants owned half the entire tonnage of Scotland, it amounted to only 5650 tons. In that year the whole shipping of Scotland was only one-fortieth jjart of that of England ; it is now about one-fifth. In point of value of exports, Glasgow ranks fourth among the ports of the United Kingdom, and Greenock now' takes precedence of Bristol. " — Smiles. Turkey red dyeing was commenced in Glasgow 1816, and is one of the most successful branches of the calico- printing trade. To these may be add- ed, calico-printing and bleach- works, carpets, glass, and pottery. One of the most interesting manu- fiictories here is that of Artificial Ice — Rose-street, Garnethill — where by a very ingenious process of chemistry the water of Loch Katrine is con- verted into the purest ice, 14° to 18° below the freezing point of water. Mention should be made of the laudable (and successful) efi'orts to establish cheap cooking and dining establishments for the working-classes, where a plain and good meal may be obtained at a fabulously low cost. The traveller who is '; interested in social experiments should by all means visit one of these institutions. ^History. — The origin of the name of Glasgow is uncertain; but the most probable derivations (either " Claishdhu," the dark glen, or "Glas-coed," dark wood) evidently point to the secluded position of a monastery. Tradition, too, agrees in attributing the origin of Glasgow to an ecclesiastical source ; for St. Kentigern, or, as he is called, St. Mungo, is said to have founded a bishopric here a.d. 560, and to have worked miracles during his stay in these parts. One of these was the dis- covery of a ring, lost by the wife of the local chieftain, in the mouth of a fish caught in the Clyde. A salmon with a ring in its mouth is still part of the arms of Glasgow. In 1450 William Turnbull, the bishop of the see, obtained a charter from James II., by which all the property of the neighbourhood was held by the bishops. In 1556, when the royal burghs were taxed by Queen Mary, Glasgow had a Pop. of 4500, and apj)ears to have been only the 11th city in the kingdom in w^ealth and population. Indeed it was not raised to the dignity of a Royal Burgh until the reign of Charles I. In 1651 Oliver Cromwell took up his abode in the house of Silvercraigs,in Bridge- gate-street, and went to hear divine service in the cathedral, when the minister, Dr. Zachary Boyd, in- 158 Route 17. — Glasgow to Edinburgh — Airdrie. Sect. II. veiglied against him so strongly, that Mr. Secretary Thnrloe proposed to pull him forth by the ears and have him shot. Cromwell's only answer was, "He's a fool, and j^ou're another. I'll pay him out in his own fashion." So he asked Mr. Boyd to dinner, and concluded the entertain- ment with a prayer that lasted 3 hours. On the S. side of the Clyde, about a mile from the river, on the outskirts of the suburb of Stratli- bungo, and Cross - my - Loof, the avenue of Eglinton-street conducts to the Queen's Park, a pleasant area for recreation of 160 acres, well planted and laid out. Contiguous to it is the hattJefield of Langside, fatal to Queen JMary, where, 11 days after her escape from Lochleven, her adherents, 6000 strong, desirous of conveying her from Hamilton to Dumbarton as to a place of security, ventured to attack the forces of Regent JVloray, numbering only 4000, but by his superior tactics were utterly defeated. May 13, 1568, leaving 300 dead and 400 prisoners. The houses of the village through which the road ran were occupied by Kirkaldy of Grange for the Regent ; the efforts to take it were ineffectual : the skirmish lasted f hour, but it settled the fate of Scotland. Railways and Distances. — North British : to Edinburgh, 47^ m. ; Linlithgow, 29i; Falkirk, 22^ Len- noxtown, 11^ f Balloch, 20^ ; Cale- donian : to London, 406 m. ; Car- lisle, 105 ; Carstairs, 31 ; Lanark, 36 ; Hamilton, 10 ; Greenock, 22^ ; Wemj^ss Bay, 30i; Coatbridge, 10; Gartsherrie, 9. Glasgow and South- western : Paisley, 7 m. ; Ardrossan, 32 ; Ayi^ 40^ ; Dumfries, 92 ; Car- lisle, 125. Steamers daily (in summer) to Greenock, Dunoon, Inellan, Rothe- say, 40 m., Kyles of Bute, and Ardri- shaig ; to xirran by Largs and Mill- port ; to Arrochar and Loch Long ; to Oban ; to Inveraray, by Lochgoil- head ; do. by Loch Fyne ; to Fort- William and Inverness ; to Campbel- town and the ]\Iull of Cantyre ; to the Western Islands, viz., Gairloch, Eigg, Tiree, Coll, Lochboisdale, Barra, Staffa, lona, and Skye ; to Islay ; Tobermory ; Portree in Skye, and Stornoway in Lewis ; Lochinver ; to Thurso and Scrabster ; to Ireland, viz., Dublin, Belfast, Cork, Water- ford ; to Liverpool ; to Bristol and Swansea. Excursions in the neighbourhood of Glasgow : — a. Cathkin Hill and Langside, 2 m. h. Hamilton and Bothwell, Route 8a. c. Down the Clyde to Greenock (Pv,te. 23), and Wemyss Bay, d. Dumbarton and Loch Lomond (Rte. 19). e. Campsie Glen (Rte. 20), /. Milngavie and the Whangie (Rte. 22), ROUTE 17. Glasgow to Edinburgli, by Airdrie and Bathgate. Station at the Old College, High Street, Glasgow, This, though not a picturesque route, and far from attractive to or- dinary tourists, will ]30ssess an interest for many because it carries them through thevery centre of the Scottish Black Country, and its industry in coal and iron. Large parts of this smoky district are so studded with buildings, furnaces, factories, etc., as to resemble town more than country. Nearly the whole of the line as far as Ratho Junction, where the traveller joins the direct Edinburgh and Glas- gow line, runs through a mineral district, traversed by a number of branch railways amalgamated under C. Scotland. Route 17. — Amine; Bathgate. 159 the name of the Monkland system, embracing a total of 71 m. The rly. branches off from the Caledonian line at Coatbridge (Rte. 8), stopping first of all at 10| m. Airdric Junct. Stat., a busy mining town of about 13,000 inhab. dependent on the collieries in the vicinity, and some cotton-works. It is tolerably well built, and has a handsome town -hall vnth. a spire. Since 1850 the Airdrie coal district has become covered with works for refining imraffi^n oil, produced from the shales of the coal-beds, which are similar, though perhaps not so rich, as those of Bathgate. At Clarkston Stat., 12 m., the line approaches the North Calder, and runs parallel with it, through hilly ground of some 800 ft. in height, to 15 m. Caldercrux Sta., where the Calder takes its rise in a large sheet of wat^r called Hill End Reservoir. At the E. end of it is 17$ m., Forestf eld Stat. Near this point the line enters the county of Linlithgow, and sends off a short branch to the Shotts Ironworks. 22^ m. Armadale Jimd. Stat., 2 m. S. of which is Polkemmet (Sir- W. BaHlie). 24^ m. Bathgate Junct. Stat., is a sort of metropolis for the coal disti'ict, and is by no means unpicturesquely situated at the foot of the Bathgate hills. The modern portion of the town is neat, and boasts an excellent Academy, iovLudi^di by a Mr. Newlands, a native of Bathgate, who made his fortune in the West Indies. Near this are paraffin distilleries of Messrs. Young and Co. Adjoining the town on the N. are the policies of Balbardie (A. JSiarjori- banks, Esq.) Both antiquary and geologist will find the neighbourhood more than commonly interesting. The district within a few miles to the N., between Bathgate and Linlithgow, contains several cromlechs, camps, and earth- works, denoting that the early in- habitants considered this county to be of importance, perhaps on account of its proximity to the Firth of Forth. Of these the chief is the Kipjis, men- tioned by Camden as "an ancient altar of gi-eat stones unpolished, so placed as each of them does support another, and no one could stand with- out leaning upon another. " There is a camp at Torphickcn (2^ m.), as also slight remains of the Hospital of the Knights of Jerasalem, who had here their principal resort ; and in some sandhills, about 100 yards from one of the boundary stones of the Hospital, stone coffins containing skeletons have been found. Toi-phichen gives a title to the family of the Sandilands, and is the birthplace of Henry Bell (1767), who, originally a mason, was the first to introduce steam naviga- tion on the Clyde (Rte. 23). Adjoin- ing the village is WallJiouse, the seat of the Gillon family. At the mouth of the Brunton Burn, which near this joins the river Avon, is a cave tradi- tionally said to have been occupied by Wallace. [From Bathgate Junct. a branch rly. runs S. to Morningside 14 m. accommodating the mineral district of Wilsontown. The geologist can proceed to Whitburn Stat. 2 J m., near the source of the river Almond, and thence to Torhaneliill (Rte. 19), rendered famous for the coal shale discovered here, so valuable for naph- tha or paraffin oil distilled from it. The district has gradually been co- vered by oil retorts and refineries. During 1865 it is estimated that 100,000 tons of Scotch coal were used for making oil ; the Boghead coal producing about 128 gallons of oil to the ton.] From Bathgate the line to Edin- burgh runs E., passing on right the site of a castle given by Robert Bruce 160 Route \*Ja. — Edinburgh to Glasgoiv. Sect. II. to his daughter Marjory : the Academy. and on left 20 m. Livingstone Stat. The vil- lage, about 1 m. to right, contains the remains of the old Livingstone Peel, once the fortress of the Living- stone family. 22 m. Uphall, near which is Hous- ton House. 24 m. Broxburn, soon after which the line crosses the Almond (Al- mondale, seat of E. of Buchan), and joins the Edinburgh line at Eatho Junct. The line hence to Edinburgh w^ill be found in Rte. 16. [A branch of the Monkland system leaves the main line near Coatbridge, passing Airdrie to the N., and taking a N.E. course through Slamannan and Avonbridge to the little shipping port of Borrowstouncss or Bo'ness on the Firth of Forth.] EOUTE 17 a. Edinburgh to Glasgow, by Mid- Calder, Holytowm, and Gart- slierrie Ironworks. 47j m. Station. from "West Princes-st. The Direct Line of Caledonian Eailwat passes through the midst of the great Ironworks, and the effect at night is wonderful ; it also passes close to numerous paraffin oilworks, a branch of industry introduced about 1860. 2| m. Slateford Stat, (see Rte. 5). 3 m. Kingsknorve Stat, (see Rte. 5). 5^ m. Ourrie Stat, (see Rte. 5). 10 m. Mid-Caldcr Stat, (see Rte. 5). 14 m. Neivpark Stat. Oakbank Paraffin Oilworks use up in 1 year 45,000 tons of shale, and 800 tons of sulphuric acid. 15f West Caldcr Stat. Young's Oil and Paraffin Works are near this, at Addiswell. The river Almond, the Briech, and other rivers, empty- ing themselves into the Firth of Forth, once clear streams fit for drinking and cookery, have been of late corrupted and befouled by the oilworks established on their banks. The nuisance is so great that when the water is low it is not only not drinkable by cattle, but is unfit for clothes washing. Trout and other fish have been poisoned, and can no longer exist in these waters. 20| m. Briech Stat, (for Longrigg). 22^ m. FauldhousQ Stat, (for Croft- head). 252 m. Shotts Stat, (for Dykehead). 301 m. Bellside Stat. 32 1 m. Newarthill Stat. Left, Neilson's Ironworks. 34| m. Holytown Junct. Stat. The rly. now traverses the " black coun- try " of Scotland — coal-heaps and blazing furnaces all the way to Glas- gow. 36| m. Wliifflet Stat. A suburb of Coatbridge ; the rly. crosses the Monkland Canal, then passes Merry and Cuninghame's Iron Furnaces to 37^ m. Coatbridge Junct. Stat. The centre of the mining district, and of a group of blazing iron furnaces, sur- rounded by a network of railway ; near this are distilleries of paraffin- oil from coal shale. Here is a fine Gothic ch. with octagon spire, built by J. Baird, Esq., 1874. Branch Ely. to Greenock direct, avoiding Glasgow. Langloan Ironworks. 38^ Gartshcrrie Stat. Here are the Ironworks and Blast Furnaces of Messrs. Baird, where one of the finest brands of pig-iron is made. 4O5 m. Gartcosh Stat. 41^ m. Garnkirk Stat. Large tile and pipe works ; here fire-clay abounds, 42| m. SteiJiJS Stat. 47? m. Glasgow Terminus, Bu- chanan-st. {sec Rte. 16). C. SCOTLAND. Route 18. — Edhiburgh to Stirling. 161 EOUTE 18. Edinburgh, or Carlisle [Carstairs Junction] to Stirling, by Lar- bert and Bannockburn, Rail. (?s".B.R.) 36] m. to Stirling. 9 trains daily in 1\ to 14 hr. From Edinburgh ( Waverley Stat. ) the line proceeds : — Linlithgow Stat. (Rte. 16). Polmont Junct. Stat. Grahamston Stat. Larbert Junct. Stat. {Sec below. ) From Carstairs the Glasgow line of the Caledonian Ely. is followed to Coatbridge, or to Gartsherrie Junct. (Rte. 8), where a branch is given off to 11 m. Greexhill Junct., the point of union with the Edinburgh and Glasgow line (Rte. 16). A little before arri\4ng at Greenhill, on left, are the village of Cumbernauld and Cumbernauld House. Crossing the Glasgow line, and running parallel with the Forth and Clyde Canal, the rly. turns round to the W. of Falkirk, and anives at 14 m., Larbert Junct., whence a short branch of 5 m. is given off to Falkirk and Polmont, to convey the traveller between Edinburgh and Stirling. Another branch goes to S. Alloa ferry across the Forth, lead- ing to Alloa (Rte. 15). [Another little branch of 3^ m. runs W. to Denny, a small manufacturing town on the Carron Water. On the way thither the rly. passes, right, two curious natural mounds called the Hills of Dunipace {quasi Duni-pacis — hills of peace, as Buchanan the historian suggested) ; geologically, remnants of alluvium, about 60 ft. high.] To the N.E. of Larbert lies Kin- [Scotland. ] naird, the residence of Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller, who after going through unheard-of dangers in dis- tant lands, came to his death at the door of his own house by falling when in the act of handing a lady to her carriage. He was buried in Larbert churchyard, where an iron pillar was put up to his memory. Passing left Glenbervie and Car- brook, the train arrives at 19^ m. BaimocJchurn Stat. The scene of the battle fought on June 24, 1314, betvveen the English army under Edward 11. , and the Scotch under King Robert Bruce, lies about 1 m. on the left, in a plain watered by the Bannock, and sheltered by the Gillies' Hill on the N. The English ai-my, amounting to 100,000 men, were advancing to the relief of Stir- ling, which Bruce was then besieg- ing. His force amounted to no more than 30,000, and was very deficient in cavalry ; a weak point which their commander counterbalanced by a judicious selection of the field of battle. The ^ Borcstone (now _ pro- tected by an iron railing) is said to have been the spot where Bruce's standard was planted during the battle, and to have marked the posi- tion of his left wing, while his right was protected by the Bannock Burn. Brace had the choice of gi'ound, and strengthened his posi- tion by digging pits across the tongue of land between the lower end of Milton bog and the burn, and covering them over with boughs and earth. The secret of his success, however, was the discovery that light-armed infantry were capable not only of coping with, but of over- throwing, men-at-arms on horseback, clad in armour cap-a-pie, who had been the bugbear of annies until the Scotch and the Swiss and the Flemings proved that peasants could fight as well as knights. The battle h2 162 Route 18. — BannocTcburn. Sect. IL began by an attempt on the part of the English to turn the Scottish left and throw succour into Stirling, an attempt which was defeated in a plain near the village of Newhouse, by Randolph, Earl of JSIoray, who, at the head of an undaunted body of spearmen, received the charge of the English cavalry, and repelled it. In this sharp skirmish Sir William D'Eyncourt was killed. The Scottish army Avas drawn up in 4 divisions, 3 of which were in line. The 4th com- posed the reserve, and was com- manded by the king in person. The centre was led by Bruce' s intimate friend, "the good Sir James Douglas, " and Walter Stewart, the king's son-in- law. Edward Bruce commanded the right, and Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, the left. The main attack began with the English archers on their own left, and had they been protected, the issue of Bannockburn might have been different ; but they were charged by the small force of cavalry attached to Bruce's division, 3,nd dispersed. Confusion then spread into the English ranks, though their superiority in num- bers enabled them to stand their ground for many hours, until the sudden appearance of the camp followers, in an im2)rovised battle array, upon the " Gillies' Hill," rising on the W., and now planted with fir-trees, created a panic that soon became a rout. The loss of the English was about 10,000, besides a great many prisoners— that of the Scots was 4000. The Earl of Gloucester, nephew of Edward II., fell at the head of a small body of cavalry, in endeavouring to stem the tide of flight. This spot is still called "The Bloody Folds." Im- mense booty was left behind by the utterly routed English, and fell into the hands of the victors. About 3 m. to the S. of Bannock- burn is Saitchiehurn, the scene of another battle in 1488, between James III. and his insurgent nobles, headed by his son, afterwards James IV., whose forces were far superior in point of numbers, and the king was defeated. He fled from the field wounded, and was murdered at the village of Milton, the murderer being supposed to be Stirling of Keir. The lane down Avhich the king's horse ran away mth him, the well, stream, and mill (no longer used as such), which gives its name to the village, can still be traced. To the S. is Bannockburn House, the temporary headquarters of Charles Edward in 1746. The village of Bannockburn has a brisk trade in tartans. From the field of Bannockburn the visitor can proceed to Stirling through the village of *S'^. Ninians, or St. Ringan's as it is popularly called. The old ch. of this place was used by the Highlanders in 1745 as a powder magazine ; but an explosion took place, and the centre of the building was blown away. The steeple stands at one end, with part of the chancel at the other, and a new ch. has been built at the edge of the churchyard. The vil- lage, which is employed in making nails, consists of one long street of poor houses, through which the main road passes. On quitting Bannockburn Stat, the rly. crosses the Bannock. 22 m. Stirling, Junct. Stat. [Inns : Golden Lion ; Royal ; Station H. ; Pop. 14,279), stands nobly on rising ground, overlooking the river Forth, " that bridles the wild Highlander." The town is built on the slope of the hill, whose top, a projectiug rock of trap, descends on one side in a black precipice, and is occupied by the Castle, resembling in this respect the situation of Edinburgh, and like it, commanding, on a clear day, one of the most lovely views in the king- dom. C.Scotland, Route IS. — Stirling: Greyfriars Church. 163 As the "grey bulwark of the North," the key of the main passage between the IST. and S. of Scotland, at no period of Scottish history can it be said that Stirling was not an object of the highest interest, and in no war was it not one of contention. It was the last place in all Scotland that held out against Edward I., who laid siege to it in person, 1304, when 65 years old. He was repeatedly hit by the engines from witliin, and when the garrison, which under Oliphant had resisted obstinately the whole force of England, suiTendered, they amounted to only 140 men. The king, who was prouder of its capture than of any other success in the war, treated them Avith unusual leniency. It was in order to raise the siege of Stilling 10 years later that his suc- cessor hazarded the fatal fight of Bannockburn. In the time of the Stuarts it became one of the king's residences. But, as at HoljTood, it was not till the reign of James V. that any separate building was set apart for the Royal family. Then the "palace" w^as built, the fort itself having served as the abode of his predecessors. The last occasions on which Stirling suffered the horrors of war was when taken by Gen. Monk in 1651, and again when threatened by Prince Charles Edward in 1746, though he failed to reduce the castle. Ascending the steep streets from the station, which is at the bottom of the town, the first object of interest is the *Greijfria7'S Church, a fine Gothic building, founded by James IV. in 1494, standing at one end of the Castle Hill. It has a high- pitched roof, and a plain square battlemented tower at its W. end, a prominent object in the view for miles around. The nave is low, with round piers, the centi'e and side aisles vaulted, and has some good windows of a Dec. character. The chancel was built by Cardinal Beaton, at a later date than the rest of the ch. It is loftier than the nave, and is far the finest part, of elegant proportions and details. It con- sists of 3 bays with aisles, the E. end being semi-octagonal with an elaborate stone roof. Notice the fine E. window, in Avhich " the long thin shafts, extending through the whole length, instead of diverging into wavy or geometrical figiu'es, and the transoms crossing them at right angles, are certainly types of the latest age, called the Perpendicular ; but the arch, undepressed, preserves the old majestic form of the Pointed and Decorated styles, and the clus- terings and mouldings are of that strong massive character that marks the undegenerate Gothic. " — Billings. In thisch., 1543, Mary was crowned at the age of 8 months ; here, too, iu the same year, the Earl of Arran, the Regent of the kingdom, renounced the Reformed religion. In 1567 James VI. was crowned in this ch. when a year old, the sermon on the occasion being preached by John Knox. At the Reformation it was divided into the E. and W. churches. There is an Episcopal Ch., a good modern Gothic building, near the Stat. The Valley between the Grey- friars Ch. and the castle used to be devoted to tournaments and other sports. It is now occupied by a Cemetery, laid out as a public gar- den, and contains various statues, by Ritchie, of Scottish people fa- mous in the annals of religion, in- cluding a MartjT's monument in a glass case. The Ladies' Rock, formerly the chief place for vie"\AT.ng the games, now occupied by seats, is one of the best points for enjojung the egre- giously noble vieio. It embraces the folloAving peaks of the Grampian Range : on the N. Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben Ledi, Ben Voiiiich on the horizon, the windings of the Forth just below, and the wide expanse of 164 Boute 18. —Stirling: Mar's JFork. Sect. II. fertile land known as the " Carse of Stirling," making a rare combina- tion of natural beauty. Below are the Castle of Doune and the Bridge of Allan. To the N. E. are the Ochil Hills bounding the view on that side. Over the King's Mote appears the undulating Field of Bannockburn, with the Gillies' Hill. Close below is "the Heading Hill," the place of public executions — "the sad and fatal mound, That oft has heard the death-axe sound, As on the nobles of the land Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand." Lady of the Lake. In mid-distance rises the Ahhey Craig, a gi'eenstone rock some 560 ft. in height, surmounted by the monument erected in honour of Wallace, a most ugly, meaning- less, and contemptible monument. A subscription ought to be raised to pull it down, for it destroys the picturesque effect of the black crag on which it has perched itself. In front of it, on a tongue of land nearly suiTounded by a curve of the Forth, Wallace posted his army, and here defeated the English under the Earl Warenne in 1297. Allow- ing half of their force to cross the river by the narrow bridge, he seized it and cut them off. Then comes the Forth, whose Avinds and turns, forming the ' ' Links of Forth " (Etc. 15), can be followed down to the Firth, with the solitary tower of Cambuskenneth Abbey rising grandly from its banks, together with. the eminence of Craigforth. At the bottom of the hill may still be traced in the turf the old gardens of the kings, the Round Table called the King's Knot, the space for tilting, alluded to by Lindsay of the Mount, the friend of James Y . — " Adieu, fair Snawdon, with thy towers high, Thy Chapel Royal, Tark, and Table Round." Not far from the Grey friars Ch., at the end of Broad-st. , is a singular fragment of Scottish domestic archi- tecture, never finished, called "Mar's Work," — the front of which is in Castle-A^-ynd. Over the main en- trance are the Royal arms, flanked by those of Mar and his Countess, of the date 1570. It is said that the building was erected with the ma- terials of Cambuskenneth Abbey. The architect finds slight evidence of this in the masonry or mouldings, which are all of a later style. The architecture is an uncouth sort of Renaissance, with enriched pedi- ments and scrolls over the windows and doors, and statues or pilasters projecting from the walls. A little higher up Castle-wynd, and on the right, is Argyll's Lodging, now the ]\lilitary Hospital. Its round turrets, surmounted by pinnacles, as well as its ornamented windows (date 1632), give it a very picturesque appear- ance. Here it was that the Duke of York, afterwards James YIL, stayed with the Marquis of Argyll, not long before his execution at Edinburgh in 1661. On the N. side of the high ground stands the Qastle, very grand in its commanding position, but the inte- rior is very disappointing. At the entrance on left is Queen Anne's flanking battery, just opposite the breach made by Gen. Monk. Pass- ing into the 1st quadrangle, on right, much modernised, is the Parliavunt House, now converted into a barrack. A few of the old windows still remain at the W. end. The inner quadrangle is the palace founded by James Y., and contains a statue of the founder in the S.W. angle. Passing through one side of the quadrangle into a small garden, the visitor is conducted up a flight of steps to the Douglas room, or rather to a good imitation of it, the original haA-ing been burnt in 1856. It has a carved wooden ceiling. It was in this room that the foul murder of Stirling. Route 19. — Glasgow to Loch Lomond. 165 "William, Earl of Douglas, by James II., took place. Douglas had refused to abandon the associates with whom he had conspired, or to break the league with them. " Then, by God ! " said the king, "if you will not break the bond, this shall," and stabbed him to the heart. The courtiers then rushed in, and threw the Earl out of the window, and it was supposed that he was buiied where he fell. In 1797, during some alterations, a skeleton, believed to be his, was found in the garden. From this room is a subterranean passage leading into Ballangeich (the "windy pass"), a narrow path much used by James V. , and from which he gave himself the name of "the Gudeman of Ballan- geich," when he wanted an alias. The path leads into the town, and the adventures which he met with were frequently dangerous, and seldom very creditable. Several of them are told in Scott's "Tales of a Grand- father." The chapel royal, long an armoury, is now a school. TJie rkw from the battlements of the castle is in its way perfect {see preceding 1 m. from Stirling, crossing the bridge or ferry, are the tall tower and rains of the Abbey of Cambuskenneth (Kte. 15.) The old Bridge of Stirling, long the only access to the N. from the S., is of very great antiquity. Over its centre arch Archbp. Hamilton was hanged in 1571, for participation in the murder of the Regent Moray, shot at Linlithgow. The river is now crossed by a modern bridge of 5 arches, as well as by 2 railway bridges. For a more comprehensive view over the country, the pedestrian is recommended to ascend Dunmyat, the nearest point of the Ochils, pass- ing through Logie village. For a brief description of these hills, see Ete. 42. EXCUESIONS FROM STIRLING. a. To CaUander and Trossachs and L. Katrine (Rte. 33). b. Alloa, Dollar, Ruins of Castle Campbell and Gorge leading up to it, and Rumbling Bridge. (Rte. 42.) Glen of Alva. c. Bridge of Allan and Dunblane. (Rte. 33.) d. Bannockburn. (Rte. 18.) e. Lake of Menteith and Aberfoyle. (Rte. 32.) Railways. — By North British ■ Edinburgh, 36 m. ; Glasgow, 29^ Dunfei-mline, 21 ; Alloa, 7 ; Rum bling Bridge, 17. By Caledonian Callander, 16 m. ; Dunblane, 5 Bridge of Allan, 3 ; Perth, 33 , Bannockburn, 2^; Falkirk, 11. By Forth and Clyde Rly. : Balloch, 20 m. Distances. — Aberfoyle, 21^ m. ; Castle Campbell, 13 ; Cambusken- neth, 1 ; Lake of Menteith, 17^ ; Logie Kirk, 3. ROUTE 19. Glasgow to Loch. Lomond and Tarbet, by Dnnabarton and Bal- loch [Helensburgh, GarelochJ (Rail). 5 trains daily — 4 to 4^ hrs. are re- quired to the head of Loch Lomond, taking steamboat at Balloch. Quitting Glasgow by the Queen- st. Stat., the railway at Cowlairs Stat, turns west, and makes a wide sweep through the country, returning to the outskirts of Glasgow at 41 m. Maryhill Stat. The Kel- vin valley is here crossed by the Forth and Clyde Canal on an aque- duct of 4 arches. Descending by a series of locks, the Canal runs side by side with the Rly. as far as Bowling. Right is Garscube (Sir 166 Route 1 9. — Dumhirton. Sect. II. Geo. Campbell, Bt.) in picturesque grounds, containing a good collection of paintings, Italian and Nether- landish. Gcmdenzio Ferrari — A Holy Family. Giacomo Francia — Vii'gin and Child, with St. Francis. Palrtm Giovani. — The Entomb- ment. Moretto — The Virgin; en- throned, with Saints Augustin, Ste- phen, and La^vrence. At 10 m. Dahiiuir Stat, the Clj'-de is reached, and the Rly. nms beside it to Dumbarton. Et., at KiljyatricJc, St. Patrick is stated by the best authorities to have been born, his father being in the Eoman service, and having the care of part of the "Wall of Antoninus. Thence it is evident that he was not an Irishman. The S. bank of the Clyde is flat when compared A^ith the N., though it is well wooded and adorned with fine seats, such as Erskine House (Lord Blantyi'e). On the toj) of a hill on left is an obelisk to the late Lord Blantyre, who, after passing safely through the Peninsular War, was accidentally shot in the eriuittc at Brussels in 1830. Rt. + Bowling Stat. {Inn : Suth- erland Arms), a cheerful and busy- looking village, where the steam- boat passenger can join the rly. to Dumbarton and Balloch for Loch Lomond. The Forth and Clyde Canal, connecting two seas by these two rivers, here joins the Clyde, and there is a large enclosed dock, where invalid steamers, and yachts which are laid up for the winter, are usually^ kept. The canal follows nearly the line of the Roman Wall, is 38 m. in length, and includes 39 locks, with a rise of 156 ft. from the sea to the summit level. It was one of Smeaton's works, and was, for those days, a triumph of engineering skill, the country through which it was carried abounding in deep valleys and dells. It still pays 6| per cent. Right, just t Denotes Piers at which steamers touch. Kt. and L. refer to the river bauks. below Bowling, is Dunglass, Point, with the ivy- covered ruins of Dun- glass Castle ; in front of which stands the insignificant obelisk raised to the memory of Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation into Britain, having launched upon the Clyde in 1812 the " Comet" steamer, with an engine of 3 -horse power. Here was the termination of Anto- ninus's Wall, which extended from the Forth to the Clyde, and which is seen in the neighbourhood of Castle- cary and Falkirk (Rte. 16). It was originally built by Agricola, A.D. 81, and repaired by Antoninus, a.d. 140. Locally it is known as Graemes Dyke. 16 m. "^^ Dumbarton Junct. Stat., a thriving but dirty town {Iivii : Elephant, in the High-street), on the left bank of the Leven, which here enters the Clyde at the base of the castle rock, having once flowed on both sides of it. Part of the disused N. channel, now a pool, flanks the Stat. Dum- barton is great in shipbuilding. Pop. 11,404. A steamboat Pier was thrown out into the Clyde from the foot of castle rock, 1874. 1 m. below the town rises abruptly from the water's edge the picturesque bifid rock of basalt, crowned by the tower of the Castle, one of the chief national fort- resses of Scotland, and as such ordered to be maintained by the Act of Union. In old times it com- manded an important pass into the Highlands, and preserved an opening by sea with France or other foreign lands. From it the infant Queen ]Mary was smuggled on board the French fleet, which, to elude the English cruisers of Henry VIII., had sailed round by the 'Pentland Firth to receive her, and safely landed her at Brest, 1548. Now the Castle is of slight strength. It is occupied by a few gunners and invalids to guard a powder magazine. Its very name. Dun Breton, marks its antiquity ; it is probably the Balclutha of Ossian, and Bede calls it Alcluyth. The town was capital of the British kings C. Scotland. Route 19. — Dumbarton; Helensburgh. 167 from 4th to 7th centy., and hence the kingdom of Cumbria was often called Strathclyde. The Castle is nearly a mile from the Stat. Turning 1. down Church- st., passing 1. the Academy, sur- mounted by a preposterously tall tower, and rt. a detached Arch, taken from the destroyed Ch. of St. Michael, then skirting the high en- closing wall of Denny's ShiphuilcUng Yard, where 1000 workmen are em- ployed, you reach The Castle, consisting of a group of modern baiTacks, which now occupy the hollow of the hill. There are scanty remains of antiquity. A flight of steps, within the cleft which divides the two peaks of rock, leads through an ancient pointed Gothic Archway, grooved for a portcullis, to the sum- mit, 280 ft. above the Clyde, whence is a beautiful view N. over the moun- tains around Loch Lomond, and S. and W. over the Clyde Estuary. On the way up may be seen a room once filled ^\dth arms, wherein is deposited a two-handed sword, said to be Wal- lace's (?), of which Campbell wrote — " For his lance never shiver'd on helmet or shield, And the sword that was fit for archangel to ^^^eld Was light in his terrible hand ! " Proof, however, is wanting that Wal- lace ever was here, though his captor. Sir John Menteith, was governor of Dumbarton ; AVallace was taken at Glasgow, and sent off at once to Jjondon. Steep and inaccessible as Dumbar- ton rock may appear, it was yet scaled, 1571, by 100 men, under Crawford of Jordanhill, who, led by a guide who had been sentry in the castle, ap]3roached the foot of the rock at dead of night, furnished with scaling ladders, ropes, and iron cram- pons, at the spot where at present stands a small cottage. Hauling one another up, and gaining a precarious footing in ledges and cracks, they succeeded in surprising the garrison, turned their guns against them, and with a slaughter of 4 won the castle for James VI. In it was taken John Hamilton, Archbp. of St. Andrews, a partisan of Queen Mary. He was hung at Stirling 4 days after for his complicity in the murders of Darnley and Eegent Moray. [Dumbarton to Helensburgh and Gavcloch. From Dumbarton a charming diver- sion can be made by branch rail to Helensburgh, and thence to Gareloch- head. The Ely. passes - 3^ m., Cardross Stat. The grand- father of Macaulay the historian was nwnister here, 1774-89. On the hill- side, 1 m, above the stat., is the keep-tower of the Castle of Kilma- hew, and near it, on the E. side of the glen, the handsome modern house of Kilmalieio (Jas. Burns, Esq.), in a fine situation, in the old Scottish style of domestic architecture. It commands a lovely view, and its grounds reach to the waterside. Kil- viaheio CJiapel is a small Gothic building, which is known to have been consecrated. May 10, 1467, to St. Mahew, a comjianion of St. Patrick. Nearly above the tnnnel is the site, mai-ked by a tuft of trees, of Cardross Castle, where King Robert the Bruce died, 1329. The line of coast is ornamented with pretty residences, and a fine view of the Argyleshire mountains opens out (rt, ) as the line approaches 8 m. t Helensburgh Terminus {Inn : Queen's Hotel, 10 min. walk from Stat. ), a pleasant watering-place, very popular with the good people of Glasgow. It acquired its name from the wife of Sir James Colquhoun of Luss, on whose property it is built. It is a row of villas, shops, and small lodging-houses, stretching a mile along the shore, with a pier in the centre, near which is an Obelisk in memory of Henry Bell, Avho first navigated the Clyde by steam. 168 Route 19. — Roseneatk ; Garelocli : Dumbarton. Sect. II. The town straggles up the hill in streets at right angles, some of the square plots being occupied by hand- some detached villas. There is an EjjiscojmI Church, and several other churches. Steamers to Greenock, on the oppo- site side of the Clyde, 6 times a day — to the head of the Garelocli ; to Arrochar, at the head of Loch Long ; to Glasgow and down the Clyde fre- quently. Helensburgh is situated close to the mouth of the Gareloch, an arm of the sea running N. inland for about 8 m., amidst very charming scenery, although not so grand as that of the neighbouring Lochs Long and Goil. \ m. from Helensburgii, at the angle where Gareloch opens, on the E. shore, are Ardincaple Castle (Sir James Colquhoun) ' and the sub- sidiary %^llage of Ptow (in the ch. -j^-ard of which Henry Bell, the steamboat projector, is buried, with a monu- ment). 3 m. Eow {PiUe, a promontory), (a small inn at the Ferry) is by far the most select and genteel of the Clyde watering-places. Here are some ele- gant villas and permanent residences, not let as lodgings, the gardens of which are beautifully kept, the cli- mate being mild and favourable for horticulture. Rowmore (Mrs. Young) and Armadale (Mrs. John Hamilton) are the most noticeable. In fact, it is a series of villas all the way to Ga.relochhead — such as Blairvadoch, Shandon (J, Jamieson, Esq.), West Shandon (Robt. Napier, Esq.), a fantastic castle containing a very fine Museum of works of art, which has terraces down to the loch-side. Roseneath, a beautiful seat of the Duke of Argyll, an Italian mansion, begun by an extravagant Duke of A. 1803, but never finished, occupies the best part of the peninsula between Gareloch and Loch Long on the W. bank, and is worth a visit. It may be reached by Feny from Rue, or by one of the many steamers, in 20 min. from Helensburgh, crossing the deep and sheltered roadstead at the mouth of Gareloch, where many large steamers and the " Cumber- land " training-ship lie. About \ m. from the Ferry Inn lies the small hamlet of Roseneath with its modern Gothic church. Close to the old ch. is a shady grove of yews, called the Bishop'' s JValk, and following the road to Roseneath House and Kilcreggan (Rte. 30), a gate flanked by 2 stone pillars leads to a group of Silver firs, prodigies of growth, hardly to be matched elsewhere. From iGarclocJihead, a consider- able village with many villas and good Inn, steamers to and from Glasgow and Greenock 3 or 4 times a day touch at the pier. It is a charming walk of 1 1 m. from Garelochhead to Loch Long, crossing the hill, which commands exquisite views of the loch, together with Loch Goil, and the Castle of Cari-ick keeping guard over the diverging waters ; and, a little lower down, of the prettily sheltered house of Glenfinnart (Edw. Caird, Esq.), and Ardentinny (Gen. Sir John Douglas), celebrated in the verses of Tannahill. From Portin- caple there is a ferry to the opposite side. Garelochhead is 10 m. from Arro- char (Rtes. 30 and 31), and 8 m. from Helensburgh ; but the pedes- trian may vary his return thither through Glenfruin—^ splendid walk of about 11 m. to Luss, in which he will gain views of the lower part of Loch Lomond.] Dumbarton to Loch Lomond. Leaving Du.mbarton Junct. (Rte. 31), the train passes 16^ m. Dalreoch Stat, on the bank of the Leven. 18 m. Benton Stat., a flourishing village occupied by print and bleach- ing works. The traveller is for the C.Scotland. Route l^. — Alexandria: Loch Lomond. 169 present in the regions made classic by the genius of Smollett, whose family were natives of this district, and indeed the village of Eenton was so called from a lady mentioned in "Humphrey Clinker." A little to the S. is Dalquliarn (pronounced Dal harn, qu mute), where Tobias Smollett was born. His monument, consisting of a stone pillar sur- mounted by an urn, with a Latin inscription on the face of it by Dr. Johnson, stands in front of the School of Eenton. In the present state of the populous and lurid valley and the tainted river there is little to remind us of his Ode to the Leven, — " Pure stream in whose transparent wave, My youthful limbs I wont to lave . . . Devolving from thy parent lake, A channing maze thy waters make, By bowers of birch and groves of pine. And hedges flowered with eglantine." Here are the colossal dye-works of Stirling and Buchanan, established 1728. 19 m. Alexandria, Stat. — One of several villages that have arisen on the banks of the Leven since 1728- 1768 — has a large trade in bleaching, dyeing, and printing. The pastoral vale of Smollett is now teeming with an immense industry in bleaching, dyeing (Turkey red), and printing calico, carried on by the Stirlings, OiT Swings, and Todds. Alexandria was so called by the Smollett family, from Alexander Telfer S. Within the memory of persons still living it consisted of only one gTocer's shop, and it is as well known now by its local name of " the gi'ocery " as it is by that of Alexandria. A bridge over the Leven connects Alexandria with the manufacturing village of Bonhill. B. House, the residence of A.Smollett, Esq., a member of the same family. Passing 1. Tillichewan Castle (James Campbell, Esq.), a modern edifice, the train arrives at [Scotland.] • + Balloch Junct. Stat. (Ete. 22), on the shore of Loch Lomond, in view of Ben Lomond, is close to the pier, upon which the train is run. Here the tourist can betake himself on board the Loch Lomond steamer. The Leven is here crossed by a suspension bridge (toll Id.), on the other side of which is the Balloch Hotel (good). PMihvay to Stirling (Rte. 22). Steamers 3 times a day to Tarbet and Inversnaid in summer ; less often to Ardlui. There is a Eestaurant on board, at which you can breakfast or dine fairly well. Pier dues on land- ing, 2d. ^^ Loch Lomond is unquestionably the pride of our lakes — incomparable in its beauty as in its dimensions, exceeding all others in variety as it does in extent and sjilendour, and uniting in itself every style of scenery which is found in the other lakes of the Highlands. As with regard to its superiority over all others there can be no question, so in the highly contrasted characters of its upper and lower portions it offers points of comparison with the whole- — with all those at least which possess any picturesque beauty — for it has no blank. Nor do I think that I overrate its richness in scenery when I say that if Loch Achray and Loch Katrine be omitted, it presents numerically more pictures than all the lakes of the Highlands united." — Mcccculloch. It is the largest fresh water lake in Britain. From Balloch to Ardlui its extreme length is 24 m., and its greatest breadth, at the south end from Glenfruin to Endrick Water, 7 m. It contains 24 islands, some of which are of considerable size, and by their craggy and wooded features add greatly to the scenic beauty ; three belong to Sir George Leith, and the rest to Sir James Colquhoun * The sign (f) denotes a landing- pier. I 170 Boute 19. — Loch Lomond ; Luss. Sect. II. of Luss, or the Duke of Montrose. The lower portion of the lake freezes in very hard winters, but never above Tarbet, between which and Ben Lo- mond the depth is upwards of 100 fathoms. The lower end of the lake, which is beautifully wooded, is ornamented with some picturesque residences. On the rt., Balloch Castle (A. Dennis- toun-BroAvn, Esq.), and the remains of the old castle of Balloch, once the property of the Earls of Lennox. Higher up is Boturich Castle (C. B. Findlay, Esq.), occujiying the site of the old seat of the Lennox family. On the 1. bank are Cameron House (A. Smollett, Esq.), Auchindennan (George Martin, Esq.), and Arden (Sir James Lumsden). A good view is obtained of the forked rock of Dum- bartoji, nearly due S. To the E. is the valley of the Endrick, where the river of that name falls into the lake. To the S. of its embouchure is Boss Friory (Sir George Leith, Bart.), where Sir Walter Scott used to stay when in this neighbourhood. Li the vale of the Endrick, also, Napier of Merchiston, the inventor of loga- rithms, passed a great part of his life. In the middle of the lake about this point is Lich Murrin, the largest and most southerly island, belonging to the Duke of Montrose, who keejis a well-stocked deer-forest on it, though the deer are only of the fallow kiiid. At the farthest extremity are the ruins of Lennox Castle, to which the Duchess of Albany retired from Doune Castle after her husband had been executed in 1424. It used to be the practice to confine insane persons and those afflicted with drunkenness on this island and Inch Lonaig. Arden is situated at the entrance of Glenfruin, a fine though triste- looking glen running towards Gare- loch. It acquired a sad notoriety in the annals of the Lennox, as this district is called, from the battle in which the M'Gregors encountered the clan of Colquhoun, who suffered sorely, leaving 200 dead upon the field. A number of the sons of the princij^al families in the Lennox came to look on at the battle, and were shut up in a barn by the Colquhouns, where they were all treacherously murdered by the M'Gregors. The latter accusation was, however, de- nied by the M'Gi-egors, who in the end suffered for their triumph. Sixty widows of the clan Colquhoun ap- peared before James VI. at Stirling, each having in her hand the bloody shirt of her husband, by which the king was so moved that he proscribed the M'Gregors, who from this time forth were hunted mercilessly down. i On the E. Bank is Balmaha, where the steamer calls. Close oppo- site the pier is Inch Caillach (Island of Old Women), because a nunnery formerly existed there. It is cele- brated as being the burying-place of the ]\I'Gregors, who often swore "upon the Halidome of him that sleeps beneath the grey stone at Inch Caillach." Numerous monuments belonging to that family still remain, but the island is so wooded with yew and fir that they are not to be seen from the water. " The shaft and limbs were rods of yew. Whose parents in Inch Caillach wave Their shadows o'er Clan Alpine's grave: And answering Lomond's breezes deep Soothe many a chieftain's endless sleep." Lady of the Lake, c. iii. The steamer now steers through a group of islands, the principal of which are Inch Fad (Long Island), cultivated and farmed, Inch Croe, Tor Inch, Inch Cruin, Inch Tavannach, Inch Connachan, and Inch lionaig, used as a deer park. " All the fairy crowds Of islands, which together lie As quietly as spots of sky Among the evening clouds." Wordsworth. t Left, Luss pier and village, with slate-quarries, to the S. of which is Bossdhu, the beautiful seat of Sir C.Scotland. Eoute Id. — Rowardennan ; Ben Lomond. 171 J. Colqulioun, the owner of most of this side of the loch. His predeces- sor was drowned in the lake by the upsetting of a boat overladen with game, 1873. There is a tolerable />i?i at Luss, and it is now a favourite watering-place. Glcnfinlas opens out here, run- ning in a parallel direction to Glen- fruin ; and, taking the lake as a whole, this is perhaps the most lovely portion of it. From the woods of Luss the privi- lege was obtained of cutting the tim- ber for the erection of Glasgow cathe- dral. There is a good road from Luss to Helensburgh, crossing the opening of Glenfruin. There is a ferry across the lake from Inveruglas W. to E. side at i Roivardcnnan (comfortable Inn), whence the ascent of Ben Lomond, 4 m., can be made in a little more than 2 hours, with all convenience, the path being so gentle that those who choose can ride up the whole way. Ponies are kept at the Inn. The beauty of Ben Lomond (3192 ft.), which is covered with grass to the top, is much enhanced by con- trast ■s\ith Ben Arthur (the Cobbler) and the mountains of Arrochar on the opposite side of the lake, which have steep decli\dties and bare rocky summits, nearly of the same elevation. On a very clear day the view from the summit is magnificent, and it presents the spectator with a wide panorama over the S. of Scotland. On the N". alone is the view limited by the jealous barrier of the Gram- pian hills, but on the other side it extends from the horizon of St. George's Channel nearly to the castle of Edinburgh. On the S. arS the wdndings of the Clyde, with the old rock and castle of Duml^arton, frown- ing on its youthful and prosperous neighbour. On the AV. side are the hills and lakes of Argyllshire, the island of Bute, the mountains of Arran, and the flat country of Ayr- shire. On the E. part are the Camp- sie hills, and the vale of Menteith, backed by " the bulwark of the North, Grey Stirling with its towers and town." Still more to the IST. are Loch Katrine and its giant guardians, Ben Venue and Ben Ledi — and so, from mountain to mountain, the eye ranges over the sea of hills, until all indi- viduality is lost. If the weather is fine and clear there is no necessity for a guide, but if it is at all uncer- tain, the stranger should not venture without one. On the opposite shore W., 5 m. higher up, is i Tarbct (* Hotel : M'Pherson's, with a garden on the lake, excellent, but expensive). 8 m. from the head of the loch, in a charming situation. W. appears the fantastic top of Ben Arthur (the Cobbler). The view of Ben Lomond is magnificent. The ascent (2i hours), although made every day, and by no means difficult, is not quite so easy as that from Kowardennan. AVlien once over the lake, do not keep straight up, but strike through the woods in a slant- ing direction to the right hahd, until the first plateau is gained, from which the way lies pretty direct to the summit. Tarbet is 2 m. distant from Ar- rochar, at the head of Loch Long, where the Glasgow steamer touches to receive passengers. It is a plea- sant walk across the isthmus to Loch Long. Coach thither and to Inveraray by Glencroe (Rte. 31). Continuing up the lake, which is here 100 fathoms deep, the steamer passes on right Eob Roy's Prison, where he is said to have kept his prisoners till he had extorted suffi- cient ransom. The views looking northward, with the vista of Glen- falloch are very beautiful, although the principal objects, Beii Lomond and the Cobbler are now left behind. 172 Route 20. — Stirling to Inversnaid. Sect. II. rt. t Inversnaid {Inn* good ; the river Arklet forms a pretty waterfall just behind it, alluded to by Words- worth in his poem, " The Highland Girl." Here the routes from the Trossachs and Loch Katiine (Ete. 21), and from Aberfoyle (Rte. 29) fall in. Steamers touch here 3 times a day, going up and down the lake, in summer. Coaches convey passengers to and from Inversnaid to Stronachlachar Inn on Loch Katrine, corresponding with the steamers on the two lakes (Rte. 33). Higher up on right is Rob Roy's Cave, marked by two circles painted on the face of the rock. The head of the Cobbler Mountain appears on the W. A road runs from Tarbet along the W. side of the lake to Ardlui, passing a cleft or fissure in the rock where the minister of AiTochar is sometimes accustomed to preach to the outlying members of his parish. The upper part of the lake is shallow, from the river deposits in it. i Ardlui Pier (2d.) (8 m. from Tar- bet) is the highest point to which the steamers go, although a canal (not used now) was cut by the Marquis of Breadalbane to enable them to proceed to Inverarnan Hotel, whence coaches start twice a day in summer : 1. to Tyndrum RIy. Stat., whence, until the Rly. is open, other coaches go to Dalmally, TaynuHt, Oban (Rte. 34); 2. From Tyndram to Inveroran, King's House, Glencoe, Ballachulish, and Fort- William (Rte. 34). The road to Tyndrum proceeds up Glenfalloch to Crianlarich Stat. , on the Rly. to Killin, whence coaches to Tay- mouth and Aberfeldy (Rte. 44). Inn. At Tyndrum the road to Glen- coe (Rte. 34) separates from that to Oban. Dalmally {Inn). Rte. 31. Rly. in progress. Oban, Rte. 31. ROUTE 20. Stirling to Inversnaid, by Loch. Menteith., Aberfoyle, and Loch. Chon. The traveller leaves Stirling by the Forth and Clyde Rly. (Rte. 22), arriving at the 13 m. Port of Monteith Stat., from whence a conveyance may be hired to Loch Menteith, Aberfoyle, and Inversnaid, one of the most pic- turesque routes in the Highlands. The road soon crosses the Forth, here reduced to a small and rather a sluggish stream ; then passes rt. Car- dross, and reaches 4 m. Loch Menteith, and Port of Menteith Inn, quiet, clean, and mode- rate. The scenery around Loch i\Ienteith is comparatively tame, and of a very different character from that of the lochs higher up, althoiigh the well-wooded and cultivated vale imparts a pleasing effect. A boat can be obtained at the inn, which is on the water's edge, to \'isit the island, on which are the pic- turesque Gothic ruins of the Priory oi Inchniahonc, " Isle of St. Colmoc," the " Island of Rest," founded for Austin Canons Regular in the 13th centy. by Walter Comyii of Badenoch, who acquired this property by mar- riage with the Countess of Menteith. In the ch. King Da-^dd II. was mar- ried to his second wife, Margaret, daughter of Sir John Logie, in 1363. The style of the building is E. pointed. The remains consist of part of the choir, the Tower arch, and 2 arches of the nave. There appears to have been an aisle on this side which has disappeared, though the light and graceful arches which separated it from the nave are still standing. The mouldings of the W. entrance, which is deeply recessed, are ex- C.Scotland. Eauie 20. — Loch MenfeUh ; Loch Arcl 173 ceedingly beautiful. The chancel contains the tomb of the founder, and 2 effigies ; one is a knight in complete armoui', with crossed legs and triangular shield, bearing the Stuart arms, and by his side is a lady with her ann round his neck. Both figures are much defaced by time and ill usage, but there seems very little doubt but that they repre- sent Walter Stuart (brother of the Steward of Scotland), who married a younger sister of the Countess of JVIenteith, and inherited the property after her death. To this island Mary Queen of Scots was sent at the age of 5 years, as to a j)lace of inaccessible security, during the English invasion of 1547, after tlie battle of Pinkie, to July 1548. She was then stealthily removed to Dumbarton, where she embarked for France, but a little garden is shown on the island, called " Queen Mary's Bower," said to have been tended by herself, and to have remained as she left it. Noble old planes and Spanish chestnut trees form an avenue over a terrace called "The Nun's Walk." The ruined castle on the other island, called "Talla," once the property of the Grahams, Earls of Menteith, appears to have been large, and enclosed a quadrangular court. The date of its erection is unknown, and it has none of the solidity of an ancient Scottish castle. It is much overgi-own with rubbish and underwood. Other smaller islands were used by the owners for dog-kennels. About \ m. from the inn the road joins the high road to Stirling, and turns sharp to the 1., leaving to the 'rt. the fragment of the old castle of Eednoch, and Eednoch House (Rev. H, A. Graham Shepherd). Skirting the base of a craggy line of hills the traveller reaches 9^ m. Aherfoyle. {Inn : Bailie Nicol Jarvie, comfortable) ; once the " clachan " where Frank Osbaldistone j distant and the worthy Glasgow bailie re- paired to meet Rob Roy. Through the village flow the waters of the Forth, which are formed by the joint streams of the Duchray and the Avondhu, " Black Water." To the 1. is Gartmore, the seat of W. C. G. Bontine, Esq. The scenery of the Clachan, without being grand, is highly broken and romantic, and cannot fail to give delight, especially when invested with the interest of Scott's well-known novel. Distance to Bucklyvie stat. of the Stirling and Balloch Rly., 7 m. [There is a fine walk of about 5 m. over the hills to the rt. , by which the pedestrian can descend on the Tros- sachs (passing Loch Drunkie), the Brigg of Turk, or Loch Vennachar, In either case the views of Loch Katrine and the Trossachs are charm- ing. ] A little to the 1. is the village of Aberfoyle and Duchray Castle. Skirting the lakelet of Avondhu, the road opens upon (11 m.) Loch Arcl, a very beautiful and pleasing lake, on the eastern side of which took place the skirmish between Helen Mac- gregor and the King's troops. " The best view of Loch Ard is the first that is obtained, where . a small portion only of the lake, nearly separated from the main body of the water by a wooded promontory, is seen ; a bright and placid basin imbedded in sur- rounding woods, over which rises the graceful fonn of Ben Lomond, and to the rt. that of Benochrie. The E. border, along which the road runs, is ornamented with a few pretty villas, generally let to the tenants of the neighbom'ing shootings ; boats for fishing may be obtained at the eastern end. From beneath a perpendicular rock over the road a remarkable echo is given off. On a line of 10 syllables being spoken Avith a fine voice, the words are returned across the lake, and repeated with equal distinctness from the woods a quarter of a mile the Y.:'— Oliver. To- 174 Eonte 21. — Stirling to the Trossachs. Sect. II, wards the northern end, the Lcdard falls into the lake, and fonns 2 pic- turesque cataracts some little way above the road — the first about 12 ft. in height, and the second 50 ft. Mention is made of this waterfall in * ' Eob Roy. " " The first fall — across which a magnificent old oak, stand- ing out from the farther bank, partly extended itself, as if to shroud the dusky stream of the cascade — might be about 12 ft. high."* Loch Ard has an island (Dundochil), oii which are the scanty ruins of a castle built by the Duke of Albany, uncle of James I. Lobelia Dortmanni flour- ishes in this lake. At the western end a footpath is given off to Eowar- dennan on Loch Lomond, 6i m., crossing the line of waterworks be- tween Loch Katrine and Glasgow. {See Rte. 21.) 15 m. Loch Chon, with its little companion Loch Dhu, is more rocky and wild than Loch Ard, and beau- tifully wooded with birch, ash, and other forest trees. A precipitous hill rises on the S. W. , one of the outliers of the Ben Lomond range. The road at the N. end, 17 m., crosses the culvert of the Glasgow waterworks. {See Etc. 21.) At 19 m. the road from Stronachlachar Inn (Ete. 21) is joined, and the hill is crossed to 24 m. Inversnaid {Inn: Inver- snaid Hotel, good), where the tra- veller can catch the steamer, up or down, on Loch Lomond. (Ete. 19.) ROUTE 21. Stirling to the Trossachs, Loch Katrine,' and Loch Lomond (Inversnaid), by Dunblane and Callander. Eail to Callander, coach to the Trossachs and foot of Loch Katrine, See Dr. John Brown's "Horse Subseeivse." then steamer up the lake to Stron- achlachar, where there is another coach to Inversnaid. By hooking through at the station, seats are secured on the coaches, which are often full. Quitting Stirling Stat. (Rte. 21) by the Stirling and Perth Ely. , that line is followed as far as Dunblane, crossing the Forth, and passing rt. the bold Abbey Craig, which is spoiled by the Wallace Tower on its top. — 1. See grand view of Grampian Chain. 3 m. Bridge of Allan Stat. {Hotels: Queen's, Philps' Eoyal ; both good) ; a very popular watering- place, in consequence of its cheer- ful and sheltered situation, backed by the woods of Airthrey, and its mineral wells, where the chaly- beate water, which is antiscor- butic and aperient, is collected in the reservoir of an old copper- mine. The water is then raised to the "Well House" on the brow of the hill, and drunk warm. At- tached to it are Baths, Eeading and Billiard rooms. There is a neat Episcopal Church, built 1857. The village, a collection of lodging-houses and villas, stands on the banks of the Allan Water, which below this spot joins the Forth, after a pic- turesque and beautiful course through Strathallan. On the outskirts of the town on the Stirling road is Airthrey Castle (Lord Abercrombie). Admission on Thursdays to the grounds ; entrance at the lodge, exit near the old ch, of Logic. Keir (Sir W. Stirling-' Maxwell, Bart.) The beautiful park is open to visitors from 2 to 6 p. M. on Fridays. Keir (a corruption of " Caer," it being the site of a Celtic fort) stands 1 m. N.W. on the road to Doune, and contains some good pictures, principally of Spanish masters. The most im- portant are an altar-piece, Murillo C. Scotland. Fioute 21. — Duiiblane. 175 — the Virgin and Child — formerly in the convent of La Madre de Dios at Seville, in which Murillo's daughter took the veil ; Philip IV. of Spain, by Rubens, "animated, warm, and clear in colour ; " Vir- gin lamenting over Christ's body, Morales ; Portrait of his first wife, Rubens ; Landscape, with two friars, G. Poussin, "beautiful and poetical ; " Finding of Moses, iV. Poussin ; Christ and His Disciples going to Emmaus, C. Lorraine; Landscape, Teniers ; Baptism of Christ, P. Veronese ; the Virgin, Zurbaran ; JValker, Portrait of Cromwell; Raebura, Miss Stirling. The library is a magnificent lofty room, lined throughout wdtli fragrant cedar-wood. Upon the cornice are mottoes in various European languages. On the return the tourist may visit Lecroft ch., very prettily situated. There are plenty of walks in the neighbourhood of the Bridge of Allan, and extensive views can be obtained from the hill of Dunmyat or the Abbey Craig, on which is the memo- rial to Wallace. Near the village on rt. of rly. is AVesterton, the seat of Sir J. Alexan- der, and farther on is KipiKuross (J. Stirling, Esq.), the grounds of which are open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Excursions to Stirling, to Alva Glen, and to Castle Camp- bell, by Dollar Stat., will occupy a day most agreeably. (See Rte. 42.) To Dunblane, 5 m. — to Abbey Craig for the sake of the view. 5 m. Dunblane Jwnct. Stat. [Inn : Dunblane Hotel), a coriiiption of Dun-allan, stands on the 1. bank of the river Allan. A good view of the cathedral may be had from the rly. It was originally a Culdee cell, and was made a bishoj)ric by David I., by whom also the cathedral was founded, circa 1140. Of his Cathedral nothing remains but the fine Romanesque Tower. The exist- ing edifice, of a pure and masculine pointed Gothic, consists of a noble nave of 8 bays, but ruined and roof- less, and of an aisleless choir which serves as the parish kirk. The W. end, a good specimen of the pure and simple pointed style, consists of a deeply recessed and moulded Portal, surmounted by a triplet of 3 tall lancet windows of 2 lights, with a cinquefoil in the head. This ch. was carefully repaired 1872, some of the closed windows re- opened, and the hea\'y wooden gal- leries cleared out from the inside. In the S. of the choir is the monu- ment of Bp. Finlay Dermot, conse- crated to this see in 1406. His bones still lie beneath the monument, which has been much defaced. In the antechapel are remains of the old prebendal stalls of black oak, elaborately carved, some with cano- pies and some without. In the chapter-house are the monuments of Malise, 5th Earl of Strathallan, and his countess, 1271. S.W. of the Cathedral, near the river, are remains of the Bishop's palace. Dunblane is honoured by having had Leighton as its bishop, who held this diocese from 1662 to 1669, when he was translated to the arch- bishopric of Glasgow, but finding that all attempts to reconcile the people of Scotland to the episcopal form of church government were futile, he re- signed his see and returned into Eng- land, where he died, and was buried in the small village churchyard of Horsted Keynes, in Sussex. He left his Library of 3000 vols, to Dunblane, a great part of which is still preserv- ed in a house {^^'ith the episcopal mitre over the door) near the gate of the churchyard. The whole appear- ance of the vUlage and ch., which overhangs the banks of the Allan Water, is eminently beautiful. The visitor will recall the fact that it is the locale of Tannahill's ballad of "Jessie, the flower of Dunblane." There is a pleasant walk by the 176 Pioute 21, — StlrUng to the Trossachs ; Bourn. Sect. II. side of tlie river, passing the W. end of the Cathedral. The battlefield of Sherriffimdr is about 2 m. N.E. At Dunblane the Callander Ely. branches off from the main line, which continues N. to Perth (Route 43). Roide to the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, ascending the valley of the Teith. 9 m. Doune Stat. (Woodside Hotel), a town noted for its Fairs of cattle and sheep, driven from the western Highlands. The Castle becomes visible on the 1. just before arrival at the station. It is one of the gi'andest relics of Scottish baronial architecture. Whatever the date of its foundation, it owes its present plan and strength to ]\Iurdoch, Duke of Albany. After his execution (1424) it was forfeited to the Crown, and James IV. settled it upon his wdfe ]\Iargaret. She married, 3dly, Lord Methven, a descendant of the Dukes of Albany, and appointed the younger In'other of her husband con- stable of it for life. The office then became hereditary, and now belongs to his descendant, Lord Moray. In 1745 the castle was held for Prince Charles, by Macgregor of Glengyle. Prince Charles confided to him the prisoners taken at Falkirk, including a number of the Edinburgh Univer- sity Volunteers (among them Home, the author of "Douglas"), who escaped by letting themselves down the walls by tA\asting their bedclothes into ropes. The situation of the castle is admirably chosen, on a triangular piece of ground, washed on 2 sides by the Teith and Ardoch, while the 3d is protected by a deep moat. It is in form an oblong square, enclosing a lai'ge com't. The Towers at each angle rise higher than the walls, and are surmounted by turrets. The buildings are of various dates, but no architectui'al details of beauty or importance re- main. The walls of the great tower are 10 ft. thick, and built with cement. The most modern part is the interior tower, containing the kitchen and dining-hall. The reader of "AVaverley" will remember that it was in this fortress that the hero of the tale was confined by the Highlanders. The Bridge of Doune was built, as its inscription informs us, by Eobert Spittal, tailor to Margaret, queen of James IV., the same who founded Sjiittal's Hospital in Stirling. I m. from Doune, S. of the Teith, is Deanston, where, since 1785, cotton mills have been established. James Smith of Deanston, long manager of the works (d. 1850), is well known for the system of " Thorough Drain- age," which he contributed to intro- duce. "Waterwheels of great power are turned by the Teith. Leaving Doune, the rly. passes the Braes of Doune on the rt., having for its highest point Uam Var, to- wards which the stag in the " Lady of the Lake "— " Stretching forward free and far Seeks the wild heath of Uam Var. " On 1. is the river Teith, and on rt. is Doune Lodge (Earl of Moray). II m. 1. Lanrick Castle, the seat of A. Jardine, Esq., succeeded by Cam- husmore (J. B. Baillie Hamilton, Esq.), where Prince Charles once slept a night, and where Sir Walter Scott often resided as a boy, the guest of the Buchanan family. The rly. here crosses the Keltic, the very name of which is sufficient to remind the traveller that he is on the borders of the Highlands. Straight in front rises the giant peak of ]jen Ledi to the height of 3009 ft. 16 m. Callander Stat. {Inns : Dreadnought, excellent ; The M'Gre- gor), is an overgi'own village near the junction of the streams from Loch C. Scotland. Boutc 21. — Callander to the Trossachs. 177 Lubnaig with the Teith from Loch Vennachar. It has of late years be- come of importance as the nearest rly. stat. to the Trossachs, Lochs Ven nachar, Achray, Katrine, and to the most beautiful scenery in this part of Scotland, so that it is animated and bustling enough in the summer Coaches, 3 or 4 times a day in sum mer, run between the trains and the Trossachs, as often as the steamers on Loch Katrine. Piaihi-ay to Lochearnhead and Killin (Rte. 44). DistoMccs. — Stirling, 16 m. ; Dun- blane, 11 ; Doune, 7 ; Pass of Leny, 2 ; Loch Lubnaig, 4 ; King's House, 10; Lochearnhead, 14; Killin, 22; Taymouth, 38 ; Aberfeldy, 44 ; Loch Vennachar, 5 ; Brigg of Turk, 7 ; Trossachs Hotel, 9 ; Loch Katrine, 10^ ; Aberfoyle, 11 ; Loch Men- teith, 5i Callander is just on the borders of the Highlands, and the j)oorer class of inhabitants talk Gaelic as well as English. The situation is far from commonplace ; to appreciate it take the turn to the 1. between the hotels and stand on the bridge. Above rises the Craig of Callander, a well-wooded hill ; and to the rt. is the grand out- line of Ben Ledi, which is nowhere seen to gi'eater advantage. Behind, and about 1| m. beyond the rly, stat., is the "Fall of Bracklin," a small cascade of about 50 ft., formed by the Keltie Burn descending over a perpendicular face of stratified rock. " Bracklin's thundering wave." It is a rough walk, and there are finer falls in the district. At the E. end of the village is an earthen embankment, supposed to be the site of a Roman Cam}), which it resembles in the height and steep- ness of its ramparts, rising in ter- races, but not in its gi'ound-plan. In reality it owes its form to a peculiar geological formation of the alluvium. It is evidently to this work that Sir "W". Scott alludes in the "Lady of the Lake," when he speaks of the toiTent that ' ' Sweeps through the plains and ceaseless mines On Bochastle, the mouldering lines. Where Rome, the empress of the world Of yore, her eagle wings unfurled." The road from Callander to Loch Katrine is celebrated for its beauty, particularly in the latter portion beyond Brigg of Tmk. It has another source of interest as following the line of the Chase described by Scott in the "Lady of the Lake." The chase passed over Bochastle's level green under Ben Ledi's steep slopes to Brigg of Turk, a sti-eam draining Glenfinlas into Loch Vennachar. From that point one sole huntsman followed the chase along Loch Achray, whose margin at the time Avas very rough ground, with scarce any paths, much less road. " Between the precipice and brake, O'er stock and rock their course they take." The stag-hunter pressed round by the head of Ijoch Achray, and close under Ben Venue, where "the gal- lant grey " expired. Passing the junction of the Lub- naig and Vennachar sti'eams, which together fonn the Teith, is 1^ m. Kilmahog turnpike, where the Loch Earn road falls in from Loch Lubnaig and the Pass of Leny, which is only 1 m. distant. On 1. is the old farm- house of Bochastle. A very short distance beyond is Coilantogle Ford^ ' Clan Alpine's utmost gi'ound," at the outlet of Loch Vennachar, where the combat took place between Fitz- James and Roderick Dhu. The ford, however, is now superseded by a bridge. At the end of Loch Ven- nachar are the great Sluices of the Glasgow Waterworks made to keep back the Teith in a dry summer, and prevent its going to waste, by which the mills and manufactories on its banks might be stopped. 178 Route 21. — Loch Achray ; The Trossachs. Sect. II. [Portnellan, about 1^ ni. from Coilantogle Ford, is the place usually chosen for the ascent of Ben Lcdi, which towers on the rt. to the height of 3009 ft, Ben Ledi, "the Hill of God," is supposed to have been in very early times connected with the mysteries of heathen worship. The ascent is not difficult from this side, " but the view is not interesting." — G. B. A.] Loch Vennachar, "the Lake of the JFair Valley, " is 5 m. in length and 1 in breadth, and serves as a fitting introduction to the superior beauties of Loch Achray, so well de- scribed in the " Lady of the Lake : " — " Stern and steep The hill sinks clown upon the deep ; Here Vennachar in silver flows, Tliere, ridge on ridge, Benledi rose ; Ever the hollow path twined on Beneath steep bank and threatening stone. The rugged mountains' scanty cloak Was dwarfish shrubs of birch and oak, With shingles bare, and cliffs between, And patches bright of bracken green. And heather black that waved so higli It held the copse in rivaky." The house of Invertrossachs on its bank ( — Cox, Esq. , Dundee) was the residence of Queen Victoria, Sept. 1869, for 10 days. Pearls of con- siderable beauty and value have been fished up from the shallows of this Loch, chiefly near its outlets. Passing on rt. the waterfall of Miltown, the road strays away from the lake, leaving Lanrick Mead be- tween it and the water. This was the trysting-place of the Clan Alpine, summoned by " the fiery cross." " The muster place be Lanrick Mead." Ben Venue now becomes more and more visible in front. The ruined house at the roadside was Trossaclis New Hotel : it was burnt down soon after it was built. Opposite it is the range of Ben A'an, and the entrance to Glenfinlas, or "Glen of the Green Ladies." For the reason of this name see "Lord Ronald's Coronach," in the "Scottish Minstrelsy. There is a bad road up the glen to Loch Voil, now Lord Moray's deer forest, and Balquhidder, but the scenery is very fine, the water struggling and boiling for some distance through a passage apparently much too small for it. 1 m. up is the cataract " Whose waters their wild tumult toss Adown the black and craggy boss Of that huge cliff, whose ample verge Tradition calls the Hero's Targe." The spot where the hotel stood is called Duncraggan, and just beyond is the Brigg of Turk, crossing the Finlas. [By following the Finlas, the pedes- trian will find a choice of 3 valleys, Aaz., Glenfinlas to the W., leading to Loch Voil ; Glen ]\Lain, which leads by Glen Buckie to Balquhidder ; and Glen Cashick (rt.) to Strathyre. It is about 6 hours' good walking from the Trossachs to Lochearnhead. Rte. U.] For the last 20 m. this route has been described by Scott as the one taken by the stag when hunted by Fitz- James and the rest of the field : — " 'Twere long to tell what steeds gave o'er. As swept the hunt through Cambusmore ; What reins wei'e tightened in despair. When rose Ben Ledi's ridge in air ; Who flagged upon Bochastle's heath, Who shunned to stem the flooded Teith — For twice that day, from shore to shore, The gallant stag swam stoutly o'er. Few were the stragglers, following far, That reached the lalce of Vennachar ; And when the Brigg of Turk was won. The headmost horseman rode alone." In fact, so minutely is the whole of this district described, that the "Lady of the Lake " is almost a sufficient guide to its beauties. The road, quite modern since Sir "Walter first visited the district, and partly blasted in the rock, now passes through a wood of oaks upon the N. shore of Loch Achraij, a very lovely piece of water 3 m. long by | m. broad, its shores clothed with copse to the water's C. Scotland. Route 21. — Trossachs Hotel — Bed-nam-ho. 179 edge. Near its "W. end stands the Trossachs Ch., a modern Gothic building. " Fine views, of Loch Achray, are to be obtained by ascend- ing the hill behind the TrossacJis Hotel. At the uppennost point Ben Venue occupies a prominent place in the picture, its long rocky ridge sweeping down in a beautiful curve, and separating Loch Katrine from Loch Achray ; the former stretching far away to the W., em- bosomed in its bold mountains, and the latter buried beneath the roman- tic and rocky ridge of Ben A'an." — Macculloch. It must have been in one of the dells near the head of the Achray, in full view of Ben Venue, that Fitz- James's chase ended, by the death of "the gallant grey." 9 m. Trossachs Hotel (very good), facing Loch Achray. It is a large chateau-like building, Avith pinnacled turrets, about 1^ m. from Loch Katrine and the steamboat pier. It was erected by Lord Willoughby d'Eresby ; in Gaelic it is called Ard- cheanocrochan. It is a pleasant walk through the wood from the hotel to the lake. The hiD. behind the hotel com- mands a lovely view of Loch A'an, Ben Venue, etc. {sec above). Excursion. — Pass of Bcal-nam-ho ("the Pass of the Cattle"), and the Goblin Cave. " I can but express my astonishment that, of the enormous number of visitors to the Trossachs, so few visit this pass, within an hour's walk of the hotel, and offering by far the grandest scenery in this district. The lines — ' The dell, upon the mountain's crest, Yawned like a gash on warrior's breast. ' and those which follow, well describe the Beal-nam-bo. To visit it, the tourist on foot may pass from the hotel round the head of Loch Achray, cross the Achray water by a bridge, then turn to the rt., and pass (by sufferance only) through the yards of the Achray farm, where a bridge will carry him over the stream which descends from Ben Venue, after which he will find a pleasant path along the elevated bank of the Achray water, followed by a somewhat marshy way through stony meadows, and thus he will reach the Sluice at the E. end of Loch Katrine. This is the more in- structive way of approaching, as it gives a close view of ' the eastern ridge of Ben Venue' on one side, and a view of the rock-hills of the Trossachs immediately across the stream on the other side. But the sluice may be gained somewhat more easily, not by crossing the Achray water, but by passing through the Trossachs and taking a boat to the sluice ; the row thither is exceedingly beautiful. From the sluice the walk must be continued parallel to the lake side, but separated from it by rocky swells (some of the 'rocks, mounds, and knolls, confusedly hurled,' which Fitz- James saw) ; in fact it is impossible to walk by the side of the lake. The dell of the Beal-nam-bo is now before the tourist, with the great cliffs of Ben Venue to the 1., the rocky swells to the rt., and the narrow cleft, ' which yawns like a gash on wamor's breast,' high in front. At two gaps between the rocky swells there are sloping descents to the lake side. The ascent to the cleft is steep, but not very trouble- some. On the gi'ound there are nu- merous blocks which have fallen from the cliffs, some of large dimen- sions. The whole scene is very grand. Of the birch-trees which Scott particularly mentions, very few remain. After passing through the cleft, a shoulder of Ben Venue is reached, I think less than 1000 ft. above the lake. It does, however, command the surface of the moors suiTounding Ben A'an ; and, in the distance, among other mountains, the Ben More of Glen Dochart is 180 Eoute 21. — Loch Katrine. Sect. II. well seen from it. I have not actually passed beyond this point ; but it aj)- pears to me that there is no diffi- culty in maintaining a rather elevated course for some distance, and finally descending by a stream called in the Ordnance map, Alt Culligart, by which a practicable road on the lake side, leading to Stronachlachar, at the entrance of the Inversnaid Gap, would be reached. The utility of the Beal-nam-bo as a cattle-pass is thus explained. Suppose cattle to be driven from the S. end of Loch Lo- mond to Inversnaid and Stronach- lachar. They could not then proceed to Loch Achra}'^ by the lake side of Loch Katrine, because there is no l^ossibility of passing the cliffs ; and, though a practicable road may be found by Loch Ard, and S. of Ben Venue, they could not venture on it, as it would lead them into the hostile district of Menteith. By rising to the head of the Beal-nam-bo, and descending to the Achray water, all difficulties were avoided. Among the huge blocks in the lower part of the pass there are many places which would give imperfect shelter, but there is none that answers to the Goblin Cave, and Scott himself avows this in his note. The place whose character approaches nearest to it is that (probably the same to which Scott refers) to which boatmen usually conduct strangers, situate in the lower of the sloping descents between the rocky swells ; it is utterly unfit for the rest even of a single person." — Sir G. B. Airy. The top of Ben Venue commands Ben Lomond, Ben More of Glen Dochart, and other mountains of Breadalbane. The road to Loch Katrine, on quitting the hotel, becomes more uneven, and soon enters the gorge of the Trossachs ( " rugged coun- try"). This gorge extends from Loch Achray to Loch Katrine, be- tween the mountains of Ben A'an (1800 ft.) on rt. and Ben Venue (2800 ft.) on 1. It is a rugged laby- rinth of mounds and rocks, covered ■Rith the richest vegetation of oaks and pensile birch and rowans, among which the road winds in and out, up and down, and at each turn presents a fresh ^dew of the grand crags of the two mountains above mentioned. The road runs out of sight of the river, which escapes from Loch Katrine. The first view of the Lake is only of a contracted reach, a pro- jecting crag concealing the main basin. As usual there is no better description of it than that of Scott : — " But not a setting beam could glow Within the dark ravine below. Where twined the path, in shadow hid, Round many a rocky jiyraraid, Shooting abruptly from the dell Its thunder-splintered pinnacle. Nor were those earth-born castles bare. Nor lacked they many a banner fair ; For, from their shivered brows displayed. Far o'er the unfathomable glade, All twinkling with the dew-drop sheen. The briar-rose fell in streamers green. And creeping shrubs of thousand dyes Waved in the west-wind's summer sighs." From the foot of Loch Katrine a steamer sails 3 or 4 times a day to Stronachlachar pier, where there are coaches in readiness to convey pas- sengers at once to Inversnaid. Em- barking at a little rustic pier, the traveller now finds himself upon Loch Katrine, a sheet of water 9 m. long, by 2 broad at its widest part. " Where gleaming 'neath the setting sun One burnished sheet of living gold, Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled ; In all her length far winding lay In promontory creek and bay, And islands that empurpled bright Floated amid the livelier light ; And mountains that like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land ; High on the south huge Ben Venue Down to the lake in masses threw Crass, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly liurl'd, The fragments of an earlier world, A wildering forest feather'd o'er His ruined sides and summit hoar, While on the north through middle air Ben A'an reared high his forehead bare." HHTH OF CLYDE AHRAX, L T-TXH \ ]..LOX( ^. A London John ^Murray, Alheniarle Street. C.Scotland. Route 11. — Loch Katrine ; Ellen' s Isle. 181 The scenery of Loch Katrine, while undeniably beautiful, is apt to disappoint, particularly after the tourist has seen Loch Lomiond. Its mountain sides are bold and pic- turesque, but it is not these which impress the traveller so much as the dark still transparent water, which in some places is 500 ft. deep. By far the most lovely portion of the whole lake is that from which the steamer starts, and which is still as it were wathin the gorge of the Trossachs, par- taking of its magnificence, and yet toned down by the softer beauties of wood and water ; but once this lo- cality is fairly passed. Loch Katrine is sui-j^assed by several other Scot- tish lakes. At the same time it is not in the power of the great mass of tourists who hastily race over it to pronounce an opinion on the beauties of the district ; but those who can afford the time and have mind to ex- plore the woods and rocks at the base of Ben Venue mil be able to appreciate "the incredible chaos of objects, though a chaos of beauty and sublimity. " The appellation, too, of " Loch Katrine " is certainly much more graceful than the one which it appears it ought to bear, for Sir Walter derives the name of the Loch from the " Caterans" or freebooters, who frequented its shore in the olden time. The traveller should on no account omit to follow the rough cart-road along the N. shore of the lake, which leads in | m. from the steamboat pier to Ell^n^s Isle, the scene of the inter- view between Fitz-James and the fair heroine. It rises rather abraptly from the water, not far from the shore, "its beach of pebbles white as snow," and is perfectly covered with trees and tangled underTS'Ood. It was originally called Eilen Vaniach, and was the cattle-pen, shambles, and larder of the Clan M'Gregor, who hid here their stolen booty of flocks and herds, and guarded it by a flotilla of boats against all comers. Here the main body of the Lake expands to view. On the opposite side, at the base of Ben Venue, is Coir-nan-Uriskan, or ' ' the Goblin's Cave, " where Douglas hid his daughter when he took her from Eoderick Dhu's island. Such a local habitation and a name have all these spots, that it is hard to per- suade oneself that they have attained their celebrity from the creations of one man. Still higher on the mountain side is Bealach-nam-bo, or the Pass of the Cattle — the gap through which the M'Gregors drove their stolen herds— the only prac- ticable way, parallel to the lake-side, between the summit of Ben Venue and the lake. A road, not passable for carriages, runs along the N. side of the lake to Glcngyle, whence a track continues to Inverarnan, at the head of Loch Lomond, 17 m. No one has seen the real beauties of lake and shore who has not traversed this road for the distance of a mile or so. The only view which corresponds to Scott's description of the place where Fitz- James emerged from the wood upon the lake can be seen from this path, and this alone. The steamer does not go near it. As the steamer advances, the peak of Ben Lomond comes into sight on the 1. and soon after^-ards a row of shafts nsing one behind the other from the water's edge marks the commencement of the Aqueduct of the Glasgow IVatenvorTcs, by means of which 70,000,000 gallons of pui-e bright water are daily conveyed to Glasgow by tunnels or aqueducts, through the mountains in the first instance, then parallel to Loch Chon, the distance being 34 m. The num- ber of tunnels on the route is 70, of vaiying lengths, up to 2650 yards, and the total cost of this public- 182 Route 22. — Stirling to Balloch. Sect. II. spirited scheme was about £1,500,000. Loch Katrine, in addition to its beauty, may thus boast of forming the iinest reservoir in the world. The surface of the lake has been raised about 5 ft. by penning up the outlet of its waters. Lochs Vennachar and Drunkie share indirectly in the water contribution, for they supply the Teith, as compensation for the water taken away for Glasgow. The works were the masterj)iece of John Fred. Bateman, Esq., civil engineer, and were partially opened by the Queen and Prince Albert in 1859. Owing to the purity and softness of the water an immense saving was effected in the domestic economy of the city of Glasgow. {See Intro- duction, p. 135, supra.) The steamer finishes her voyage at Stronachlachar Pier (look after your baggage here ; Inn^ tolerable). Coaches are in waiting to convey passengers to Liversnaid, on Loch Lomond 5 m., to meet the steamer on that Lake (Rte. 19). The road is highly picturesque, and very good, with the exception of a steep hill just before reaching Inversnaid. Loch Katrine is 450 ft. above the sea- level, and Loch Lomond, where the road ends, is only 24 ft. above it. 1 m. 1, a road falls in from Loch Ard and Aberfoyle. (Rte. 20.) 2. m. I. Loch Arklet. On both sides may be seen numerous tumuli, showing how often this bare and worthless tract of country has been the scene of desperate fights, not to be won- dered at when we remember that this is the heart of the M 'Gregor's country, that in its fastnesses they found refuge, after being proscribed by an Act of Privy Council, April 3, 1603. The act of outlawry was reversed by Charles II., 1663, in consideration of the services they had rendered to Montrose, but was renewed by William III., 1793. Their legal rights were finally restored by Geo. II. 1755. 4 m. rt., in Glen Arklet, is part of the old cottage where it is said that Helen M 'Gregor was born. Be- hind it are the remains of a Fort built to overawe the clan. The coach now descends a long and steep hill, through the gap of Inversnaid, beside a garrulous stream, which, in a series of water- falls, reaches Loch Lomond, close by. 5 m. the Pier at Inversiiaid. {Hotel, comfortable.) Inversnaid, on the E. shore of L. Lomond, about 4 m. from Tarbet and 6 from Ardlui, is remarkable for a charming situation, and for the fact that Wordsworth here met the damsel who inspired his sonnet to the " Highland Girl." Steamers call at Inversnaid pier going up the lake to Ardlui, coaches thence to Tyndrum Stat., Glencoe, Fort- William, Dalmally, and Oban ; and going down, to Tarbet, Luss, and Balloch Stat, for Glasgow (Rtes. 19 and 34). Lock Loviond is described in Rte. 19. There is a ferry across the Lake here. EOUTE 22. Stirling to Loch Lomond (Bal- loch), by Drymen, Forth and Clyde Bail. 30^ m. 4 trains daily in 2 to 2^ hrs. The Forth and Clyde Juuct. Rly. connects the two great central rivers of Scotland, and runs in the wide strath between the Fintry and Campsie Hills on the S., and the advanced posts of the Highland ranges on the N. Leaving Stirling from the joint stat., the line turns sharply round to the 1., underneath the Castle rock, and follows the rt. C. Scotland. Route 22. — Camime Hills. 183 bank of the Forth, passing rt. Craig- forth (H. Houldsworth, Esq.), and 1. Touch, the seat of Sir H. Seton- Steuart ; and keeping on 1. the Gar- gunnock Hills. This name (eaer- guineach) means a conical fort, and relates to the Peel of Gargunnock, long since swept away, which was held by the English for some time against the attacks of Wallace, who was encamped on Keir Hill. Between 6 m. Gargunnock Stat, and Kipjyen Stat. 9 m. are on 1. Leckie (K. ]\Ioir, Esq. ), and Boquahan (H. F. Campbell, Esq. ) . The Fin try range of hills now succeeds, a picturesque series of trap hills, of the same geological age as the Campsie Fells, which are seen in the distance. 13 m. Port of Menteith Stat. (Rte. 31). This is the nearest j)oint to the Lake of Menteith, 5 m. 154 m. Bucklyvie Stat. (Inn : Crown) ; nearest point to Aberfoyle and Loch Ard. The line, wdiich has been gradually ascending, reaches the highest point between the Forth and Clyde, The country all around is uninteresting, and rather barren, but the distant peaks of the Highlands are frequently seen. 20 m. Balfron Stat., the line of the Glasgow Waterworks is crossed in its way from Loch Katrine. The village (on the 1.) is prettily situated on the Endrick Water, a consider- able stream rising in the Fintry Hills, and flo\^dng into Loch Lomond. 22 m. Gartness Stat. 23 m. Drynicn Stat. The village is 2 m. off, 1 m. farther is Buchanan House, seat of the Duke of Montrose, a modern house amid fine grounds and woods. It contains a portrait of the Marquis of Montrose, by Van Dyck (?). The rly. approaches more closely the Campsie Hills, and should the tourist have time he will find that between this and Glasgow there is some very curious and romantic scenery which will repay exploration. [The pedestrian can easily walk from Drymeu to Strathblane and Lennoxtown, 11 m., thus intersecting this range of hills, and taking at the latter j)lace the rly. to Glasgow ; or he may w'alk to Miln- gavie, 10 m., and then take another branch line. About 2 m. from the Drymen Stat, is the Finnich Glen, a very remarkable gorge rent in the sandstone beds for the Finnich Water ; the sides rising vertically from the bed of the stream nearly 100 ft., though in some parts scarcely 10 ft. across. In one part of the glen is a large tabular mass of sandstone, known as the " The Devil's Pulpit." From the Finnich Glen the road ascends for some distance through the Kilpatrick Hills to 5 m. rt. Auchinedin (J. Pollock, Esq.), close to which is the very singular hill called " The JFhangie," where a considerable chasm runs parallel with the face of the cliff for about 350 ft. The rock consists of green- stone overlying the old red sand- stone. The view from the Whangie, overlooking the Highlands, Strathen- drick. Lake of Menteith, and Loch Lomond, is one of the finest near Glasgow. Should the traveller have elected to turn off" to Strathblane, a little before reaching the Finnich Glen, he wdll there find plenty to interest him. The hills of Dun- foyne and Dungoyne, outliers of the Campsie Hills, are remarkably bold and picturesque. About halfway to Strathblane is the ruin of Duntreath Castle, 15th centy. " The possessor of the barony of Duntreath enjoyed the fullest feudal powers, and the dungeons and stocks still remaining attest the extent of the authority once exercised by the nobility and higher gentry of Scotland." — Burke. The village of Strathblane is very prettily situated on the Blane, that rises in the adjoining heights of Earl's 184 Route 22. — '-Milngavie ; Ballocli. Sect. IL Seat (1510 ft.), and flows into the Finnieh. 1 ni. from Strathblane is Ballagan GJeii, Avhere the Blane leaps down in a succession of cascades, here called the Spout of Ballagan. There is a fine geological section of strata, known as the Ballagan beds, consist- ing of thin bedded limestones, sand- stones, clays, and shales, of the lower carboniferous age, the whole being overlaid by ti-ap. Farther on towards Campsie is the isolated trap boss of Dunglass Hill, shomng columnar structure. Between Strathblane and Milngavie is the Mugdock Mescrvoi?' of the Glasgow Waterworks, 70 acres in area, holding 200,000,000 gallons, 311 ft. above sea-level, which descend in pipes 7 m. to Glasgow. 10 m. (from Drymen) Milngavie, locally called Milingay, is a pretty little town, with some print-works and mills. From hence a short rly. of 7 m. joins the Edinburgh and Glasgow line at Cowlairs.] The main line proceeds in a south- westerly direction, calling at 26^ m. Kilmarnock Stat., and at 29 m. James Totem, where are some of the largest print-works in Scotland. 30 m. Balloch Junct. Stat. Here the tomist for Loch Lomond will embark in the steamer at the foot of the lake (Rte. 19), or if going S. to Glasgow Avill have to change car- riages, Balloch Hotel, good. SECTION III— WESTERN SCOTLAND. Estuary of the Clyde — Bute — Arran — Lochs Long, Goil, Fyne, Awe — Etive — Linnhe — Inveraray — Oban — Mull — Iona— Staffa — Glencoe — Ben Nevis — Caledonian Canal. INTRODUCTION. § L General Ivformatioii. § 2. Objects of Interest. ROUTES. ROUTE 23 Descent of t/ie Clyde. Glas- gow to Arran, by Greenock and Wemyss Bay 23a Glasgow to Greenock and Wemyss Bay, by Paisley and Bridge of Weir — Rail 24 Glasgow to Canipheltoion by sea. Mull of Canty re . 25 Campbeltown to Tarhert, by Barr, and JFest Tarhert Loch 26 Glasgow to May and Jura . 27 Glasgow to C>&a?i, by the Clyde, 204 Dunoon, Botlusayj Kylesof Bute, Loch Fyne, Ardrish- aig, the Crinan Canal 28 Ardrishaig to Oban, by Loch Awe and Gorge of the Brander .... 29 Glasgow to Inveraray, by Dunoon,Kihmin,Holy Loch , Loch Eck, and Loch Fyne . 3 Glasgow to I n verara y , hjLoch Goil or by Loch Long, and Arrochar .... 31 Loch Lomond (Tarbet) to Oban, by the Pass of Glen- 188 199 199 202 209 213 216 217 ROUTE PAGE croe, Inveraray, Loch Awe, and Dalmally . . .218 34 Loch Lomond to Fort-AVil- liam, by Tyndrum, Glencoe, and Ballachulish . . 225 35 Oban to Staffa and Iona, a Cruise round the Island of Mull . . . '. 229 36 Oban to Bannavie, by Loch Linnhe, Appin, Ballachu- lish (Glencoe), and i^o?'^ JVil- liam — Ben Nevis . .238 36Ax\rdgour to LocJis Sunart and Moidart, by Strontian and Salen . . . .242 37 Bannavie to Arisaig, by Glen- frnnan and Loch Shiel . 242 Fort- William to Kingussie, by Glen S2)ean, Glen Roy (the Parallel Roads), and Loch Laggan . . .245 Bannavie to Inverness, by the Caledonian Canal, Fort- Augustus, Loch Oich, Loch Ness, Siudi Fall of Foyers . 247 38 39 § 1. General Information. The Routes comprised in this Section form an almost uninterrupted waterway, and it may be truly said that few districts in Britain excel in beauty the Estuary of the Clyde and the numerous sea-lochs or fiords which branch out of it, penetrating into the very heart of the grandest mountain chains. Thus there is the greatest variety of scenery, starting from the flat borders of Dumbarton and Renfrew- shire, and ending in the wild glens of Argyll and Inverness. {^Scotland. "[ I 2 186 § 1. General Information. Sect. III. " The scenery of the Highlands has a peculiar character, the im- press of a grand melancholy. In those mists which veil the hills, I could imagine the presence of Ossianic Sj)irits." — W. Every part of this district is now made accessible hj Steamboats. Between Glasgow, Greenock, and Rothesay, the traffic is like that of the cabs in the Strand, or the gondolas in the Grand Canal of Venice, dashing past every minute, or constantly crossing to and fro. Some of them are magnificent in size and equipment, such is the well-known " Iona " — a floating palace. Mr, Geikie gives an interesting explanation of the formation of this fine scenery : — " I do not know a better illustration of the softer schists, in. producing smooth-sloped hills, than along the W. side of the Firth of Clyde, between the Kyles of Bute and the Gare- loch. A band of clay-slate runs across the Island of Bute, skirts the Firth by Inellan and Dunoon, crosses the mouth of Loch Long and the Gareloch, and skirts them to Loch Lomond. It is easy to trace this strip of rock by the smooth undulating form of its hills, which remind us rather of the scenery of the southern uplands than of the Highlands. Behind the clay-slate lies a region of hard quartzose rocks, and the contrast between their rough craggy outlines and the tame features of the clay-slate is a peculiar part of the scenery of the Clyde. It is to these harder rocks that we owe the ruggedness of the mountains that sweep from the shores of Loch Fyne through Cowal, across the Holy Loch, Loch Goil, Argyll's Bowling Green, and Loch Long, into the heights of Ben Lomond." — " Scenery of Scotland." The Steam Fleet of Hutchinson and Co. {see Advertisements) deserves, on the whole, high praise for appointment and good man- agement. They have good restaurants on board — at moderate prices. They touch at all the ports of the West Coast, and penetrate to most of the Islands, except St. Kilda. The shores of the Clyde from Glasgow to Greenock are almost one continuous town, interesting alike as a great field of human activity and industry. Nature's refined beauties ; while lower down, as far as the open sea, they are dotted with watering-places — the Brightons of Glasgow — and with neat villas or stately mansions of its manufacturers and merchants. The impressive Rock and Castle of Dumbarton alone, in such a scene, throw back. the mind to ancient days. Below Greenock, the Steam Passenger fleet, as a general rule, divides into two lines, owing to the increased width of the Clyde. One set follow the N. shore by Dunoon and Rothesay ; the other keeps by the S. shore, by Wemyss Bay, Largs, Millport, Arran, and Ayr. W.Scotland. §2. Objects of Interest. 187 A visit to Arran, 4 J hrs. from Glasgow, is highly recommended ; Arraii is a model on a small scale of Alpine scenery ; full of beauties. The two trysting-places in this district, for which, almost all tra- vellers in the Highlands direct their steps, are, Inveraray on Loch Fyne, and Obcm, the Charing Cross of the Highlands, and the start- ing-point for Staffa and lona, for Skye, Glencoe, and the Caledonian Canal. They may be reached by the following rontes : — Inveraray. — (A.) By Loch Lomond, Tarbet, and Pass of Glencroe (Rtes. 19 and 31.) (B.) By Loch Long, Arrochar, and Pass of Glencroe (Rtes. 30 and 31.) (C.) By Loch Goil and St. Catharine's (Rte. 30.) Oban. — By A, B, or C, as far as Inveraray. (D.) Thence by Loch Awe and Cladich {Steamer), or DalmaUy (Rte. 31.) By steamer from Glasgow or Greenock, by Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig and Crinan Canal (Rte. 27.) There are excellent Inns in this district, at Tarbet, Oban, In- veraray, Rothesay, Dunoon, Wemyss Bay, Brodick, etc. The Clyde Estuary and all Lochs branching from it are peculiarly well suited for Yachting — in fact the best possible mode of explor- ing them is by yachts. The reader is referred to the Chapter in Section IV. § 2. Objects op Interest. Dumbarton. — Rock ; Castle ; Shipbuilding. Fort-Glasgoio. — Newark Castle. Ch'eenocl'. — Quay ; Watt Monument and Statue ; Reservoir. Largs. — The Cumbraes ; Millport ; Ejiiscopal College. Arran. — Brodick Bay and Castle ; Goatfell ; Glen Rosa ; Corrie ; Glen Sannox ; Loch Ranza j Tormoor Circles ; Kildonan Castle ; Holy Island ; Lamlash. Cantyre. — Saddell Castle; Abbey. Gamiobeltown. — Cross ; Mull of Cantyre ; Bengullion ; Achana- ton ; Caves ; Dunaverty Castle ; Barr Glen ; Mausdale ; Largie. Tarhert. — E. and "VV. Lochs ; Castle ; Loch Fyne ; Herring Fishery. Islay. — Coast scenery : Kildalton Crosses ; Port Ellen ; Caves ; Jura ; Paps ; Oronsay monuments. Dunoon. — Kilmun Church ; Loch Eck. Bute. — Rothesay Castle ; Mount Stuart ; Scalpsie Bay ; Kyles of Bute ; Ormidale ; Loch Fyne. 188 Pmde 23. — Descent of the Clyde: Arran. Sect. III. Ardrishaig. — Criiian Canal ; Lochgilphead ; Easdale slate-quar- ries ; Kilmartin ; Carnassary Castle ; Pass of Melfort. Loch Awe. — Islands ; Ben Cruachan ; Kilchurn Castle ; Inisfail Island ; Pass of B]ander. Loch Long. — Loch Goil ; Arrochar ; the Cohbler ; Tarbet. Helensburgh. — Gareloch ; Glenfruin ; Roseneatli ; Loch Long. Glencroe. — Pass to Cairndow ; Rest-and-be-Thankful. Inveraray. — Castle ; Cross ; Woods ; Ary Falls ; Dunaquaich. Dalmally. — Ben Cruachan ; Kilchurn Castle. Ohan. — Bay ; Dunolly Castle ; Dunstaffnage Castle ; Loch Etive ; Ardchattan Priory ; Dunmacsniochan ; Connell Ferry. ROUTE 23. Descent of the Clyde — Glasgow to Arran, by Greenock and "Wemyss Bay. t Denotes landing Piers. The tourist may take his choice of steamers to Greenock from 7 in the morning, as there is scarcely a quarter of an hour in the day during which there is not some departure for Greenock, which port all the Clyde steamers touch at on their way to the various watering-pLaces, whether situated on the N. or S. coasts of the Futh. Meals provided on board. Steamers twice a day to Arran (from Greenock) ; in about 4 hrs. to Brodick, by Largs or by Rothesay. About an hour will be saved by taking the Railways to Greenock or Wemyss Bay on the 1. bank, or to Dumbarton or Helensburgh on the rt., and embarking there. (See Rte. 23a.) The High Level Railway by Bridge of Weir is recommended as commanding finer views than are seen from the steamboats. {See Rte. 23a.) Moving off from the Broomiclaiv, which "with its crowded shipping and busy wharves presents a great con- trast to the time when it obtained its name from the quantity of Broom growing on it, we pass on rt. the quay, where the deep-sea steamers for England and Ireland are berthed. 1. Iron-roofed shed at Springfield, where the heavier shijDS load. To these succeed long lines of iron ship- building yards, the number and magnitude of which attest the pre- eminence that the Clyde has over all other rivers in this sj^ecial and im- portant manufacture. Indeed, from Glasgow to Greenock, a distance of 22 m., it is studded ^^-ith a succession of shipbuilding yards and marine engine sheds, of Avhich the passenger is reminded by the constant din of thousands of hammers. On the rt. bank may be seen transatlantic steamers, and 1. tiers of foreign liners for America, East Indies, and Australia. Rt. is the Napier DocTc, where the Cunard steamers are engined, and on the W. is the Lancefield Quay. To this succeeds the 5^ard of the Thom- sons, whence the "lona" and her sister ships were launched ; and beyond is that of Napier at Govan, whence issued the "Persia" and "Black Prince," and most of the "Cunard" fleet. 1. The village and spire of Govan, where are several shipbuilding yards, beyond which is Sliieldhall. On rt. + Partick, where the Kelvin brook joins the Clyde near the steam build- ing yard and graving-Z>ocA; of Tod and M'Gregor. W. Scotland. Route 23. — The Clyde: Renfreii: 189 1. Fail-field, the shipbuilding yard of John Elder and Co., the largest on the Clyde, employing 5000 men. rt. Jordanhill (A. Smith, Esq.) and Scotstown (J. Gordon Oswald, Esq. ) are large and handsome houses, charmingly situated, with a back- ground of the Kilpatrick Hills, which now appear in the distance. 1. Opposite Scotstown are the ship- yard of Linthouse, and Elderslie (Mrs. Speirs), an ancient mansion, once known as The King's Inch, pro- bably from the fact that the course of the river was then different, and made an inch, or island, of the spot. At Elderslie Sir Wm. AVallace was born. Behind Elderslie, amongst the trees, is 1. Renfrew, the capital of the county, which gives the title of Baron to the Prince of Wales. Though now an insignificant place (4163 inhab.), it was once a royal burgh. PmU to Paisley. On rt. is the village of Yoker, and opposite are the woods and grounds of Blytlisicoocl (A. Campbell, Esq.), bounded on the W. by the Cart, formed by two streams, the Black and White Cart, which, rising in the Ayi'shire Hills, unite at Inchinnan, 2 m. below Paisley, and here join the Clyde. It has been celebrated by Burns in his song of the Gallant Weaver — "where Cart rins rowing to the sea." Near Inchinnan Bridge the Earl of Argyle was arrested, 1685, as a rebel. Farther on rt. is a cut to the Forth and Clyde Canal. The grand works for widening and deepening the channel of the Clyde will not fail to arrest the stranger's attention. Since 1770 nearly six millions sterling have been expended on these operations, which have em- ployed the skill of such engineers as Smeaton, Watt, Rennie, Telford, and Walker. At that time the Clyde was fordable opposite where the Broomielaw now stands. 4 m. be- low the town a trap-dyke, which crossed ^the stream 900 ft. long by 300 broad, discovered by a line grounding on it, 1852, was blast- ed by gunpowder, so as to open a channel 14 ft. deep at low water. Whole mountains of rock and earth have been raised from the bottom by dredging, and either laid on the banks or carried in barges out to sea. The banks, formerly defended by dykes, now, for a long distance, rise above the level of high water, and need no protection but loose whin- stone rubble. The result is that vessels drawing 22 ft. can now moor alongside the quay at Glasgow. The steamer now runs parallel with (rt.) the rly. between Glasgow and Loch Lomond (Pvte. 19), the Kil- patrick range of trap hills forming, with their steep wooded banks and craggy escarpments, a very beauti- ful backgi'ound. Before arriving at (rt.) the village of Kilpatrick are the heights of Duntocher, where is a large establishment of spinning-mills. The opening reach of the river is very fine, with the magnificent rock of Dumbarton standing as sentinel over the crowded waterway, seamed in every direction by lines of smoke from the numerous steamers, river and sea-going. In clear weather Ben Lomond's top may be discerned. To Dunglass on rt. succeeds a pic- turesque valley, in which is Auchen- torlie (A. Buchanan, Esq.), and above it the print-works of Milton, backed up by the wooded hill of Dumbuck, an outlier of the Kil- patrick hills, and the modern Scot- tish mansion of Merton (F. White, Esq.) Then comes a low strath, through which the Leven flow^s from Loch Lomond into the Clyde ; and on its banks the shipbuilding yards of \ Dumbarton, nestling under the shadow of the two-peaked rock (Rte. 19). Both shores are lined with residences, including on the 1. Fin- layston, in former times the resi- dence of Lord Glencairn, patron of John Knox. On rt. is Cardross, where Lord 190 Boute 23.— Descent of the Clyde : Greenock Sect. III. Macciulay's grandfather was minister, 1774-89, and beyond it is Ardmore Point. On both banks may be seen the steam of the locomotive ; that on rt. from the Glasgow and Helens- burgh Ely, and on 1. from the Greenock line. On 1. -^ Port-GJasgoto (Inhab. 9851), designed, as its name indi- cates, to be the harbour of Glasgow, but since the river has been so much deepened it has declined in import- ance, and ships that do not stop at Greenock go right up to the city. Near the town, on a low peninsula, is the Castle of Newark, a large quad- rangular pile* of the 16th centy., but much modernised. Over the dooi-way is the date, and an inscription, " The blessing of God be hereon." It be- longed to the Dennistouns, and is now the property of the Shaw- Stewart family. Looking N., the tourist sees the beautiful entrance to the Gareloch, backed by the rough mountains of Argyllshire, flanked on one side by the gleaming white houses of + Helensburgh (Rte. 19), a favourite watering-place, reached by steamer every hour, in a few minutes from Greenock, and on the other by Eose- ncath, the lovely marine villa of the Duke of Argyll (Rte. 19). On 1. the forest of masts and the general bustle betoken the town of t Greenock Stat. (Refreshment and waiting rooms on the piers.) {Inns: Tontine, good), a busy seaport, (population, 57,146), important like- wise for its trade and industry, for its sugar refineries, shipbuilding yards and docks — for its cotton and woollen spinning, ironworks, etc. The ex- treme beauty of its situation must not be forgotten, on the broad ex- panse of the Clyde, gay with ship- ping, in every position and every variety of fonn. The passing tra- veller Avill be glad to quit its narrow and bustling streets, and as nearly 100 steamers touch here in a day, an opportunity will quickly present itself. The fine buildings upon the Quay are the Custom-house in the Grecian, and the Mariners' Asylum, in the Elizabethan styles. The theatre originally built \>j Kemble is now the Sugar Exchange. The heights behind the town are worth ascending for the sake of the romantic Highland vicio over sea and mountain ; which may be ad- vantageously commanded from the picturesque Cemetery. The tourist should at all events run up to the Well Park, laid out in gardens im- mediately above the station. It was presented to the town by Sir M. Shaw-Stewart. In Greenock James Watt was born. The birthplace of Watt has been pulled down, but its site is now occu- pied by the Watt tavern, close to Dalrymple Street. The gi-eat en- gineer is however commemorated in Greenock in the Watt Monument — a modern Gothic building in Union- st., W. of the town — built by his son, to contain a library presented by him, and a statue by Chantrey, raised by public subscription. The town is well supplied with water from a reservoir of 300 acres, called Loch Thom, or "Shaw's Water," about 6 m. to the S. As it is situated at a height of 500 ft. above the sea, the water when near- ing the town is turned to economical purposes for driving Wheels of mills and manufactories, instead of steam. One of these, in Upper Greenock, has the enormous diameter of 220 ft., and weighs 117 tons. "The pro- sperity of Greenock dates from the year 1707, shortly after the union with England, when the British Parliament granted what the Scottish Parliament had refused, viz. the privilege of constructing a harbour." — Smiles. Greenock is directly opposite the watering-place, Helensburgh (see Rte. 19) — a pleasant retreat from smoke and dirt, to which steamers are con- W.Scotland. Boute 23. — The Clyde : Largs. 191 stantly plying in | hour, conveying passengers to the railway to Dum- barton and Loch Lomond. Eaihoay Termini. — {a) At the Old Steam Quay at the Harbour, for Glasgow Low Line (Caledonian) ; also at Cathcart-st. (&) At Princes Pier, 1 m. farther down the Clyde, Terminus of the High Level Rly. to Glasgow (Ayr- shire Ely. Kte. 23 a). It has another Stat, in Lynedoch-st. (Rte, 12). (c) Upper Greenock Station for Wemyss Bay, not far from Lynedoch- st. Stat. Distances. — Glasgow, by rail, 22r, m. ; by water, 21 ; Helensburgh, 4 ; Gourock, 2 ; Wemyss Bay, 8 ; Inverkip, 6. Starting from Greenock Quay, the vessel skirts the well-filled Docks and a puny battery of 7 giins, be- yond which appears the Wood Insti- tution for aged and infinu seamen. 1. About 3 m. from Greenock, and opposite the watering-place of Kil- creggan, is f Gourock, a favourite resort of the Glasgow folk, on the shore of a bay dotted with houses, furnished with a Pier, at which many Clyde steamers stop. The Darroch family have property here, and a mansion in the place of the Old Castle. 2 m. W. of the town stands the ruined tower of Levan Castle. Near it, off Kempoch, the steamer "Comet" was run down by the "Ayi"" (1825), and 50 passengers drowned. As the coast trends southward, the tourist has on his rt. the entrance to Loch Long, and Holy Loch, with the marine villages of Kilmun, Kirn, and Dunoon (E,te. 29). On 1. is the Cloch Lighthouse. Turning sharp to the S. the steamer passes Ardgowan, the seat of Sir Michael Shaw- Stewart, perhaps the most beautiful place on the Clyde, and soon stops at t InverTcip {Inns : Murdoch's ; Smith's), a pleasant secluded little watering-place at the mouth of the Kip, facing Inellan and the slopes of Cowal, with its background of moun- tains. Gait, the novelist, is buried here. 2 m, farther on 1. is t Wemyss Bay (a tolerable Hotel), a more modern watering-place and the terminus of the Wemyss Bay Rly., with a long Pier, where passengers arriving by rail join the boat to I3ute and Arran. Steamers for Largs, Eothesay, and Millport, touch here. The most con- spicuous building is Castle Wcrayss, designed by Billings, the seat of John Burns, Esq., shipowner, a worthy and benevolent citizen of Glasgow ; also Kelly House (J. Young, Esq., the faithful friend of David Living- stone). The N. shore of the Clyde Estuary — Dunoon, Rothesay and Isle of Bute are described (Rte. 27). Still coasting S., we have on rt. the promontory of Toward Point, round which the Oban steamer goes through the Kyles of Bute, and on 1. Skelmorlie Castle, a seat of the Earl of Eglinton (occupied by J. Graham, Esq.) ; the ruined castle of Knock, under the conical hill of Knock ; and inland Brisbane, the residence of the late Sir T. Brisbane. There is a pier at + Skelmorlie, which has risen in repute as a residence. As the channel narrows between the main- land and the Great Cumbrae, we have on the 1. the watering-place of t Largs (Brisbane Arms), cele- brated for the battle fought here in 1263, the date being fixed by the calculation of the eclipse that occur- red just before. " Here floated Haco's banner trim. Above Norweyan warriors grim, Savage of heart and large of limb." Haco, King of Norway, having entered the Eirth of Clyde with a numerous fleet, met with a storm dur- ing the disembarkation of his troops. His ships were dispersed, and, a part only of his army being landed, he was attacked and routed with great 192 Route 23. — The Clyde: Cumhraes. Sect. III. slaughter by Alexander III. Haeo fled to Skye and thence to the Orkneys, where he died of hardship and mortification, and was buried in the cathedral of Kirkwall ; the result of the victory was the cession of the Hebrides and Man to Scot- land, after they had been for 400 years attached to the Norwegian crown. The Norwegians buried their slain in a Mound, still existing on the shore opposite Cumbrae, opened 1873, and found to contain burnt human bones. In the aisle of the Old Church, near the Mound, is a monument to Sir Robert Montgomery. The conchologist may find on the shore here the llissoa Calcuthisca, an exceedingly rare shell. [In the summer an omnibus runs to Ardrossan from Largs, passing li m. on 1. Kelhurn Castle (Earl of Glasgow), prettily situated by the side of a stream, on which there is a waterfall. The house was built in the 16th centy., and has a very in- genious and curiously - ornamented sun-dial in front of it. 3 m. Fairlie village and castle, and thence through the village of West Kilbride to (12 m.) Ardrossan {Inn: Eglinton Arms). (Rte. 12.)] From Largs the steamer crosses to the watering-place of Milljjort, situ- ated in a bay on the S. side of the island of Great Cumbrae, which, to- gether with the Lesser Cumbrae, stands in mid-channel between the mainland and the island of Arran. ' ' Both islands consist of portions of the same great sheet of carboniferous igneous rock which runs from Ar- drossan N. to Greenock, and in both portions of the red sandstone on which these rest rise from under them," The geologist will find on the E. shore a couple of interesting whinstone dykes. t Millport {Inns : Millport ; Cum- brae ; Kelburn Arms) is an exceed- ingly pleasant little place for a short stay, with a good Pier built by Lord Bute, and contains an Episcopalian Collegr, built from designs by Butter- field, and a beautiful chapel, in which full choral service is held twice ever}'- Sunday. The Garrison is a seat of Lord Glasgow, built on the site of an old fort. An amusing anecdote is told of a fonner minister of the parish of Cum- brae, who, with exalted notions of the little world in which he lived, used to pray for the island of Cumbrae, together with the adjacent islands of Great Britain and Ireland. The Lesser Ciimhrae is a very small island of about 1 m. in length. There was once a fort on it, until it was burnt by Cromwell's troops. The stump of a tower on the E. side of Olderdale is supposed to have been a defence against Norwegian pirates. At the S.AX''. angle is a lighthouse. An older one stood on the hill-top. To the N. are the remains of the chapel of St. Vey, with the tomb of the saint considerably mutilated. The views from both the islands over the shores of Bute and Arran are very fine. Emerging from the protection of the Cumbraes the steamer crosses the main channel and makes for Arran, whose magnificent cliffs and mountains, topped by the rugged heights of Goatfell, form a grand feature in the landscape. The first point at which the boat stops is Corrie, where is a quiet, neat little inn. t Brodick, however, is the most central locale for exploring the island, and the place where most of the tourists disembark, at an iron Pier of peculiar construction, with buffer- sides to protect the steamers in rough weather. It must be borne in mind that it is rarely of any use going to An-an without having secured accommoda- tion beforehand ; as in the summer it is crammed \dth visitors from Glasgow, many of whom reside for W. Scotland. Route 23. — The Clyde: Arran — Brodick 193 the season there, going backwards and forwards to their places of busi- ness. At Brodick there is only one Inn (Douglas Arms), the Duke of Hamilton not permitting any other to be built. There are, however, lodgings to be had in many of the small cottages along the shore. At Corrie there is a good Inn. At Lamlash accommodation is more plentiful ; but in consequence of its situation it is not such a good start- ing-point to explore the beauties of the island, which mainly lie in the north. The island of Arran is about 20 m. long by 12 broad, the interior con- sisting of wild, uncultivated moun- tains, which in the N. rise to a very considerable height. For many centuries the island was a royal domain, well stocked with red deer and other beasts of the chase, and used principally as a hunting-ground. It will be remem- bered that Bruce landed here, and mustered his forces before making that last and successful descent on his own country. " "Where does my brother bend his way? As I have heard for Brodifk Baj'. Across the isle — of barks a score Lie there, 'tis said, to waft them o'er, On sudden news, to Carrick shore." Lord of the Isles. It was in St. Bride's convent, on the N. of the island, that his sister Isabel was placed. The earldom of Arran was conferred for the first time upon Sir James Boyd, who married the sister of James I., but the pro- perty and the lady were after Boyd's death given to Sir James Hamilton. Hogg's ballad makes Walter Hamilton win the princess and the island of Arran in a tournament — a poetical ver.sion of the circumstance. With the exception of one or two farms, the whole island belongs to the Duke of Hamilton, who occasionally, though very seldom, visits Brodick Castle. The Geology of Arran is a subject [Scotland.] which has attracted much attention, • and has been frequently described by th(- able pens of many eminent geo- logists, as Jameson, Sedgwick, Ram- say, etc. To those fond of this science the island is a complete field for study, embracing within its area an extraordinary variety of different phenomena. The general line of the coast is low, although it occasionally rises into precipitous cliffs, especially on the S. and S.W. Eed sandstone is the predominant rock along the coast, extending, with few interrup- tions, from the Cock of Arran on the extreme N. along the E. Brodick, where it is very well seen, and thence to the S. shore as far as Kildonan, where it is displaced by an intrusion of trap. It lines the valleys of the Slidry and Torralin'?, then disappearing for a time resumes its position between the Machry Burn and Glen lorsa. Near the ]\Iachry there is a remarkably precipitous wall of black porphyry, extending for 2 m. along the shore. On the N. and N.E. are sections of the carboniferous series, interstratified with trap beds. The interior of the island is chiefly composed of granitic mountains, viz., Goatfell (2863 ft.), towards the E. Ceum-na-Caillich, Caisteal Abheal, Cia Mh6r, and Ben Huish in the centre, and Ben Varain on the W. "Those in the S. are generally composed of trap rocks, partly syenite, partly porphyry, partly greenstone, with many dykes of greenstone and pitchstone passing through the red sandstone strata around the coasts. The small size of the island, combined with the elevation of the mountains, gives to the short glens a very sudden depth, and permits the cliffs to show great curvatures of strata. Dykes and overlying masses of greenstone, fel- spathic and trap porphyry, various sorts of claystones and pitchstone are seen abundantly both on the E., W., and S. coasts ; and so perfectly 194 Route 23. — Arran : Goatfell. Sect. III. are all the phenomena exhibited, that it is ditticnlt to imagine any space of the same limited extent more worthy of being studied for the purpose of understanding the mutual relations of pyrogeneous rocks." — Phillips. '\ Brodick. {Inn: Douglas Arms, very good, but generally lull to over- floAving in the summer months. ) The village of Brodick, properly speak- ing, no longer exists, except in the castle, most of the houses near it having been removed. But the whole bay, including the hamlet of Invercloy, now passes by the name of Brodick. The Castle (Duke of Hamilton) was seized by Edw. I. and held by Sir John Hastings, from whom it was taken at the general liberation of Scotland from the Englisli yoke. It was garrisoned by Oliver Cromwell ; but his soldiers, having provoked the indignation of the islanders, were mas.sacred. It has been rebuilt in the Scotch baronial style from de- signs by ]\lr. Gillespie Graliam, and, though not a very large building, it has from its commanding position a very good effect. Steamers daily to Greenock and the ports of the Clyde ; once to Rothesay ; daily to Ardrossan. Distances from Brodick. — To Glen Eosa, 3 m. ; Loch Ranza, 12 ; Goat- fell, 6 ; Glen Sannox, 6 ; Lamlash, 4 ; Glen Ashdale, 10 ; Tormoi-e, 10. ' a. Goatfell (2863 ft.), or Ben-na- Gaoith, the " IMountain of the Wind " of the "Lord of the Isles" — " The sun, ere j'et he sunk behind Benghoit, the mountain of the wind "— rises from behind the castle of Brodick, and is the excursion most often undertaken by visitors. No guide is required for the ascent, except by persons unaccustomed to mountaineering, which, with the de- scent, v,dll occupy from 4 to 5 hours, starting from and returning to the hotel. The first 2 m. may be done on horsebai^k, or even in a carriage, following the road along the coast, passing the mouths of Glen Shiraig, where schools and a ch. have been built, and Glen Rosa. Upon thert., near the schoolhouse, is an old stone monument, ormenhir, placed upright, probably the entrance to an avenue ; cross the burn and enter the duke's grounds. Farther on are 2 more upright stones in a field. Thence ascend the hill at the stables and make for the kennels, which are above, keeping a little to the rt. of the latter and entering the planta- tions. Emerging from there on to the heather a track runs straight up, whence the summit is seen rising right in front. The path appears to wind a long way round, but any at- tempt at a short cut to the mountain from this point Avill only result in increased latigue to the pedestrian, without any saving in time. He should therefore keep well to the right. From the top may be seen the mass of mountains which, one beyond another, occupy the whole of the northern part of the island, together with the shores of Scot- land indented with its numerous lochs and bays, the islands of the W., the coasts of Galloway and Ire- land, and the mountains of Cumber- land. Near the spectator are the granite peaks of the sister mountains — that of Caisteal Abhael on the N. being the most conspicuous, topped with loose blocks of great size, that give its simimit the appearance of a recently dismantled fortification. "Near the summit of Goatfell, and also on the S. shoulder, the granite suddenly ari.^es in perjiendicular cliffs, assuming the artificial appear- ance of huge Cj'clopeau walls. Large blocks are arranged one above an- other with the utmost nicety, thus frequently presenting a vertical face of rock of considerable height" — Ramsay. ^Y. Scotland. Boufe 23. — Arran: Goatfell 195 A tolerable mountaineer may pro- ceed from the top of Goatfell along the Saddle, and thus effect his de- scent upon Glen Sannox to Corrie, instead of returning the way he came. h. The veiiis of trap and jntchstonc traversing the sandstone rock in all directions exposed along the shore S. of Brodick, deserve the attention of the geologist, and may interest or- dinary travellers. c. One of the easiest and most "beautiful excursions from Brodick is that to Glen Rosa, as romantic a glen as any in the Highlands, which runs immediately beneath Goatfell, and is separated only by a ridge or neck from Glen Sannox, The lower part of the glen is easily accessible, there being a good path ; but after the wooden bridge over the tributary river is passed, the path becomes ex- cessively wet and boggy. But for those who do not mind this, it is as fine a walk as can be imagined up to the head of Glen Rosa, crossing the ridge and down Glen Sannox to Corrie, and returning to Brodick by the road. d. Lamlash, the first place in size in Arran, opposite Holy Islaiul, is 4 m. from Brodick {see below, e). e. An Excursion round the Island by the coast-road will be about 53 m. Going N. from Brodick the mouth of Gen Rosa is passed on the 1. ; then the Castle, a fiue red sandstone building. A good road runs close along the sea, while the view on the opposite side is bounded by a bank of rock, the lowest step of the moun- tain ranges, which slope from the interior to the sea on both sides. This bank is thickly covered in some parts with trees and brushwood, and the ground below is strewn Avith masses of shivered rock. At 5^ m. there is a fine cascade, about 250 ft. high. 6 m., at t Corrie is a good quiet Inn, at which steamers call daily. Excavations of great extent and age were discovered during the working of some quarries here. At 8 m. the mouth of Glen Sannox is reached, which runs down to the sea from the base of Goatfell. There is no road up it, except as far as the baryta works ; and the ground, un- less in dry seasons, is wet and boggy. Stillness reigns around, and the almost perpetual mists in which the depths of the glen are shrouded lend gloom to the neighbourhood. The descent of Goatfell is frequently made across the ridge that divides Glen Sannox from Glen Rosa, or the pedestrian can proceed down the lat- ter to Brodick. " On the northern range of Glen Sannox there is a re- markable fissure called Ceum-na- Caillich, forming a deep indentation on the summit of the mountain, from whence a narrow gully descends into the glen. This seems to have once been entirely filled with a trap dyke, now decomposed. There are several trap dykes in and around Cia Mhor, a high conical hill, forming alike the upper extremity of Glen Sannox and Glen Rosa. One of these, of a very singular construction, crosses the ridge that divides the glens on the S. side of Cia Mhor. This remarkable dyke includes 5 distinct bands." — PMiiisay. The volcanic or trappean ash that reposes upon the carboniferous strata on this portion of the coast is ex- tremely interesting. About 2 m. from Glen Sannox are the Fallen Rocks, in which an immense cliff of old red sandstone conglomerate seems to have given way, and to have strewed the slope with masses of rock in the wildest confusion. There is a 196 Pioute 23, — Arran : Loch Ranza. Sect. III. tradition that this fall was heard in Bute. The scene at the Seriden, at the N. extremity of which stands the " Cock of Arran," a point well known at sea, is somewhat similar, though even wilder. It is a large piece of clilf which once bore resemblance to a cock, but the wind and waves have knocked its head ofl', and the likeness is no longer striking. The whole of this portion of the route is very im- pressive from the wild confusion of roclvs on every side, whicli appear as if an avalanche had deposited them where they now lie. A long glen is now traversed, in which the road sur- mounts a steep ascent and then de- scends as suddenly to the level of the 12 m. + Loch Piccnza (a small and poor Inn, furnishing fresh herrings and potatoes) is an inlet of the sea, about 1 m. long at high water and •| m. broad ; at its apex rises the graceful form of Torindan-eoin, to the S. of which is the rugged top of Caisteal Abheal. It is a pity that no accommodation exists at Loch Eanza, for it is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Arran. Tlie Bay is di\'ided by a promontory run- ning out into it from the W. shore ; and upon this stands a Castle, con- sisting of 2 square towers, the roofs of which are still tolerably perfect. It was erected as a royal hunting seat prior to the j'ear 1380. A nun- nery dedicated to St. Bride formerly existed here, but there are no traces of it left. Loch Eanza is a celebrated herring station, the fish here being remark- ably good, as indeed they are through- out the whole of the western coasts. The Campbeltown steamer calls off the loch several times a-week (Rte. 24). Rounding the point and turn- ing southward, the traveller arrives at (14 m.) the little village of Catacol. The geologist will notice here curious examples of contorted schist. 17 m. is a lonely little kirk, be- longing to the village of North Tundergay, 2 m. from which, inland, is the secluded and solitary lake of Corrie-oM-lachan, which looks as if it had been scooped out of the recesses of Ben Varen. Its sides are almost wholly destitute of vegeta- tion, and the lake has the appear- ance of having been the centre of an extinct volcano. " Ben Varen itself is in form like a long house, with rounded roof, and on its summit are two of the Cyclopean walls meeting at right angles. " — Anderson. As the road progresses S. very fine views are obtained of the mountainous coast of Cant}Te, from which Ben Tore stands out pre-eminently. 19 m. South Tundergay village ; and 20 m. that of White Farland. 2H m., at Imachar there is a small public-house, but clean and respectable. 24^ m., at Glen lorsa, the river of the same name enters the sea. On the rt. bank is Dugary, a shooting- box belonging to the Duke of Hamil- ton, and behind it is the keeper's house, picturesquely situated. At 26^ m. is a road across the island to Brodick, about 8 m. 28 m., near the Machry river, which the road now crosses, is Tor- more, famous for its anticpiarian remains in the shape of upright stones and circles. Here are 2 up- right stones upon 2 hills, command- ing the entrance to Avhat was evi- dently an avenue leading up to the great circles. At the beginning of this avenue there is a dolmen, formed of large slabs put together like a house of cards, so as to enclose a space. The interior when opened was found to contain some ashes. The first monument consists of 2 concenti'ic circles, the ground in the interior being somewhat raised. The diameter of the largest of these two circles is aboiit 55 ft., and W. Scotland. Route 23. — Tormore — Old Stones. 197 the stones are granite boulders ; the 2 largest in the interior circle point- ing E. and W., in which direction all the circles lie, thongli not all in the same line. On the S. side of this one is a stone with a hole bored in it. The centre of this circle has been opened, and human bones or ashes were found in it. 2. A circle, composed of 5 boulder-stones, one removed. 3. To the N. of the last is a single upright slab, about 12 ft. above the ground, evidently one of a circle of similar stones. 4. Three upright slabs, 15 ft. from the ground, belonging to a circle 60 ft. in diameter. There are, here and there, groups of stones, which may be the remnants of circles scattered about between this and the hills ; but the surface has been removed constantly in the search for peat, so that, doubtless, many more have disappeared. A little beyond Tormore the tourist must turn to the rt., on the coast, for the King's Cavrs. The whole line of rock has been hollowed here into caves, some of which are fitted wdth doors and \Adndows. The last and largest is called the King's Cave, and is said to have been in- habited by Fingal, Bruce, and several other Scotch heroes, fabulous and historical. The roof is partly sup- ported by a natural pillar that rises from the floor and divides the upper part of the cave into 2 chambers. Upon its side is rudely carved a sword, and on the walls are rough sketches of the chase, ascribed to the leisure hours of Bruce and his com- panions when condemned to inac- tivit}^ and concealment in Arran. But the softness of the stone and the continual damp of the walls would long ago have obliterated any carv- ings of such ancient date ; although it is by no means improbable that the cave itself was at one time in- habited by Eobert Bruce and his brother Edward. From the caves, if it is dry, climb the cliffs and strike E. across the moor to the high road ; but if it be Avet, return to the road whence you diverged, and proceed to Torbeg, the next village. [At the kirk a road on I. leads to Shedog, where there is a small Inn. 1 m. from this point is the bridge over the Machry Water and the village of Clachan, with an old cemetery over- grown with nettles. Here it was said that St. Molus or Molaise was buried, although his resting-place is claimed by the Irish as being in the island of Inishmurray, off the coast of Sligo. From Clachan it is 7 m. to Brodick, passing on the way the junction of the Dugary road, marked by a highly-ornamented letter-box. ]j The geologist will notice in the red sandstone cliffs near Tonnore and Drumadoon the prevalence of dykes of pitchstone and trap porphyry. Continuing the route along the coast from Torbeg, 33 m. rt. is Tor Castle, or, as it is commonly called, Castle Hill, an oblong barrow run- ning from N. to S., on the top of which are the remains of 2 circles, which may have been walls, or simply stones in position. The larger one is about 80 ft. in diameter, the smaller 54. On the S. side are 3 fragments of stone of superior work- manship to the rest. On the S. of the Castle Hill is a smaller barrow, with a very narrow ridge, upon which there seem to have been stones also, by the collec- tion at its foot. The position of these remains being on the coast, and principally the W. coast, in- duces the antiquary to attribute them to a Norse origin. [A little beyond the N. of the Slidry Water, 34 m., a road on 1. runs to Lamlash, 10 m., a pretty route through Glen Scorridale, de- scending by Glen Monymore.] A little farther on is a good Inn at 198 Route 23. — TiyuT of Arran — Lamlash. Sect. III. crossed to Kilmory village. 37i m. on rt. is Bennan Head, the point of termination of the Struey Clilfs on this side. In the face of them is the Black Cave, a large, dark excavation, about SO feet high. 40 1 m. 1. is Essiemorc, or the Great Fall, in which the water descends 100 ft. in a long, thin stream, which is swayed to and fro by the wind, into a pool, from which it forces its way through a rocky channel of red sandstone to the sea. At its mouth is the village of Auchin- grew, where there is a ch. and manse. 41| m., at Kildonan village, there is a small public-house. Off the shore is the island of Pladda, upon which there is a lighthouse. Kil- donan Castle, upon the edge of the shore, is a square keep of 2 storeys ; the roof of the lower storey still per- fect, and a part of the upper one still left. On the land side is a splendid line of perpendicular cliffs, called the "Dippin Rocks," from the E. end of which a stream spouts forth, vdlh. a fall of nearly 300 ft. There is a road from Kildonan Castle, which rejoins the main road without returning through the vil- lage, and passes close to Dippin Lodge, the grounds of which are kept strictly private ; then along the shore of Whiting Bay, on the 1. of wdiich is the village of Silverbank, so called from the fine bright sand wiih. which the coast is covered. At the back of the village Glen Ashdcde, in which there is a good waterfall, runs up into the hills. The sti-eam is broken in one place only — the first fall being about 60 ft. high, and the lowest very much more. The north- ern point of Whiting Bay is called King's Cross, from its being the place where. Bruce is said to have embarked for Carrick, and opposite to it are the clifis of Holy Isle, a picturesque island, about IJ m. in length, rising to the height of 1009 ft., and forming an admirable breakwater to the Bay of Lamlash. Holy Isle is supposed to have been the resort of St. Molio or Molaise, a disciple of St. Columba. His cave by the shore is marked by some curious inscriptions in Eunic characters of the date of the 12th centy. The composition of the rocks is red sandstone overlaid by felstone, and the surface is covered wdth heath and the Arbutus uva ursi. 49 m. t Lamlash {Inns : Lamlash H. ; Bannatyne's ; Kennedy's) is a straggling village of detached cot- tages, running along the coast, and facing the sea and the northern pro- montory of Holy Isle. It is much resorted to in the summer, but prin- cipally by those who are not fortunate enough to secure accommodation at the hotel at Brodick. In Lamlash Bay the Norwegian King Haco moored his shattered fleet after his defeat at Largs. Steamers start from it several times a day, for Greenock, Ardi'ossan, and Wemyss Bay. It is a favourite walk of 4 m. to Brodick ; both the ascent from Lam- lash and the descent to Invercloy affording very beautiful views. The geologist may see veins of pitchstone crossing the road. 53 m. Brodick {see above). The tourist who is anxious to make a more intimate geological ac- quaintance with Arran should read M 'Culloch's admirable description, which, although a little out of date, is a magnificent resume of the mineralogical features. The most compendious work is Prof, Ramsay's " Geology " of the island. W. Scotland. Route 23rt. — Glasgoic to JVemyss Bay. 199 ROUTE 23a. Glasgow to Greenock and "Wemyss Bay, by Paisley and Bridge of "Weir. (A.) High Level Line. — Stats, in Glasgow : Union Kly., Dunlop Street, N. side of Clyde, and Bridge Street Stat, on S. side — 12 trains daily in less than an lir. to Greenock. Crossing the Clyde on an Iron Bridge, the Caledonian YAj. joins the South -Western at Pollockshields Stat. This Glasgow suburb, along with Ibrox, consists chiefly of villas. Rt., see the West-end Park and Gla,sgow College on the height. PmMey Junct. Stat., in Rte. 12. Here the 2 lines to Greenock diverge. The High Rly. 1. to Crosslee Stat, is connected with Johnstone, 11 to 12. Rt., in clear "weather, Ben Lomond is \'isible. Bridge of Weir Stat., a small manufacturing village with mills in a hollow. After passing Kilmalcolm Stat. , a wonderful pro- spect opens out on the rt. over the valley and estuary of the Clyde from Dumbarton downwards. From the great height at which the rly. runs you have a complete bird's-eye view, and look down upon smoking steam- boats, the tops of the chimneys, and roofs of the towns of Port-Glasgow and others, through which the Low Line runs. Xo traveller should fail to take this route for the sake of the remarkable view. The rly. descends through a series of tunnels partly running under the streets of Greenock, to Greenock Stat. (Lyndoch Street), Here passengers for Wemyss Bay must change trains. Greenock TermimisiJlviTboxiT Stat.) at Prince's Pier, W. of the town. where all the river steamers call (Rte. 23). (B.) From Paisley ly Low Line to Greenock and Wcinyss Bay. Houston Stat. Bishopton Stat. Emerging from a long tunnel the Clyde opens out to vi(nv. Port-Glasgow Stat, {see Rte. 23). 221 m. Upper Greenock Stat. Near this, among the hills on 1., are the reservoirs which supi)ly Green- ock with water, descending in the stream called Shaw's Water, which turns many miles. Ravenscraig Stat. Inverkip Stat, (see Rte. 23). 30^ m. Wemyss Bay Terminus, 2 hrs. bv rail from Glasgow. ROUTE 24. Glasgow to Campbeltown and Cantyre by Sea. A steamer stai-ts three times a week from the Broomielaw, arriving at Camp1>eltown in 6 or 7 hours. The first part of this route, down the Firth of Clyde to Greenock and Wemyss Bay, is detailed in Rte. 23. From Wemyss Bay the steamer makes for the N. coast of Arran, which it skirts, getting magnificent views of Goatfell, Kidvoe, Ceum-na-Caillich, and Glen Sannox, Then the beauti- ful inlet of Loch Ranza is touched at. The strait between the W. coast of Arran and that of Cant}Te is called Kilbrannan Sound, down which the traveller steams, passing on rt. the solitary little kirk of North Tunder- gay. Then the steamer crosses ob- liquely over to Cantyre, first touch- ing at the little fi.shing harbour of JJarradale, in the village of which there is a decent Inn. Near Carra- dale House, overlooking the sea, are the ruins of Aird Castle ; also a vitii- 200 Route 24. — Campheltown ; CanUjre. Sect. III. fied fort on a small island. From this point there is a road along the coast running northward to Clunaig and Skipness, at the entrance of Loch Fyne, and also one running south through Saddell to Campbel- town. Skipness Castle is somewhat dila- pidated. Its outer walls are 7 ft. in thickness, and it has 2 projecting towers, one of which was evidently the keep of the Castle, and goes hy the name of "Tur in t' sagairt," the Priest's Tower. One of its former owners, a Campbell, called "The Captain of Skipness, " studied the art of war under Gustavus Adolphus, and fought against Charles I. and Montrose. At Skipness is also the ruined ch. of St. Columba, which in its entirety was the largest ch. in Can tyre, except that of Saddell. — C. Bede. Carradale is a good place for ascend- ing Ben-an- Tuirc, ' ' the mountain of the boar" (2170 ft.), which is the highest mountain in Cant3Te. The hills throughout the whole peninsula are noways remarkable for their jjic- turesque features, as they consist rather of a succession of swelling up- lands than of rugged or precipitous heights. Nevertheless, the view from Ben-an-Tuirc will repay the ascent, as it includes Ayrshire and Wig- townshire to the E. ; Ireland, the Giant's Causeway, and Rathlin Island to the S. ; Islay, Gigha, and Jura, with the broad Atlantic, to the W. ; and northward, as far as Ben Cru- achan and Ben Lomond. 1| m. S. of Carradale is the pretty Glen Torrisdale, at the entrance to which is Torrisdale Castle (J. Hoyes, Esq.). About 4 m. to the S., is the glen and Castle of Saddell, one of the most picturesque bits on the eastern coast of Cantyre. The castle is a plain quadrangular tower, with a machicolated embattlement. There are also some slight remains of the monastery of Saddell, founded in 1163 for Cistercian monks, by Re- ginald, the son of Somerled, Lord of Cantyre and the Isles. In the old churchyard are some very ancient scul|)tured stones, also monuments of the Macdonalds, the former possessors of Saddell, concerning whom there are many singular stories in the district. A little to the S. of Sad- dell is Ugadale, the property of Capt. Hector M'Lean, whose ancestors re- ceived it in consideration of kind- ness offered by them to Robert Bruce. A brooch, presented by him, is still an heirloom in the family. At Ardnacross the romantic glens of Straduigh and Glenluissa run down to the sea. Presently the picturesque island of Davar, on which there is a revolving light, points out the entrance to the har- bour of Campbelto^^^l, in whose land- locked waters the whole navy of Great Britain might ride safely. At the head of it, pleasantly sheltered from the rough winds of the Atlantic, is James VI. 's royal burgh of + Campbeltown {Inns : Argyll Arms ; White Hart — both moderate and comfortable), the headquarters of the distillery trade, and withal a some- what dirty town, 6628 inhab. It is of great antiquity, having been the capital of the early Dalriadan mon- archy about the 6th or 7th cent. The principal object of interest in the town is the Cross, which stands on a pedestal in the centre of the main street — date about 1500. The one side is covered with elaborate ornamentation, similar to that on the cross at Inveraray (Rte. 31), and the other contains this inscription in Lombardic characters, together with a few figures of men and animals. " Hsec est crux Domini Yvari M. Heachyi-na quondam Pectoris de Kyl- regan et Domini Andre nati ejus Pectoris de Kilcoman qui banc crucem fieri faciebat." Although Campbel- town is well sheltered, it has no very W. Scotland. Route 24. — Canty re — Kllkcrran. 201 picturesque scenery, except towards the Isle of Arran and the Sound. The population depends principally on the whisky distillation and the herring fishery. Of distilleries there are upwards of 20, which turn out about 1,200,000 gallons of whisky a year. This trade has nearly super- seded the fishery. Distances. — The Mull of Can tyre, 10 m. ; Dalavaddy, 3 ; Macrahanish Bay, 5 ; Barr, 12 ; West Tarbert (coach daily to meet the steamer), 35. Stejxmer 3 times a week to Glas- gow. [A very interesting excursion may be made round the south coast to the Mull, skirting the harboiu' of Campbeltown, and arriving at 1^ m. Kilkerran, prettily situated at the foot of the Glenramskill hills, of which Bengullion is the highest point, rising to 1160 ft. Kilkerran (Chil Chieran) claims;to have been the site of the cell of the Irish saint St. Kieran, who preached in the 6th centy., and is believed to have been the first Christian mis- sionary to the western portion of Scotland. He is said to have dwelt in a cave a little southward, where the coast trends away to the j\Iull. Of the church of Kilkerran, once annexed to the abbey of Paisley, nothing remains, though the burial- ground is still used. Between it and the sea is the old ruined Castle, garrisoned by James VI. to over- aw^e the Macdonalds, Avho, however, thought so little of it that they cap- tured it and hung the governor from the walls before the king was well out of sight. There is a fine view from Bengullion, on the face of which is a deep rift. A little to the S. of Kilkerran is Kildaloig, the seat of Sir L. Camp- bell. There is some fine timber here. 3 m. at AcJianaton, or Achaoan Head, is the cave where St. Kieran dwelt. Pennant speaks in high terms of it : — "These caves are very magnificent and various ; the tops are lofty, and resemble Gothic arches. One has on all sides a range of natural seats. Another is in the form of a cross, with 3 fine Gothic porticoes for entrances. On the floor is the capital of a cross, and a round basin, cut out of the rock, full of fine water — the beverage of the saint in olden times, and of sailors in the pre- sent, who often land to dress their ■^actuals beneath this shelter. " From thence the road keeps tolerably near the coast-line, crossing the mouths of Glen Arvie and Coneglen, where a considerable stream falls into the sea, amidst some romantic scenery. Between Glen Ar\'ie and Cone- glen, close to Southend, is Machri- rcock, a shooting-lodge of the Duke of Argyll. As a proof of the mildness of the climate, a laburnum-tree in the garden here was in full bloom, Dec. 15, 1865. Limecraigs, near Campbeltown, is another seat of the same family, where the Duchess, mother of the gi'eat Duke John, once resided. At Dunaverty is the Castle of the Macdonalds, the lords of Cantyre, where Bruce hid from his enemies, quitting Scotland from this point to cross over to Eathlin Island, which lies some 20 m. to the S. The castle was situated on the summit of a very precipitous rock, which is only accessible from the land side by a narrow approach, and obtained its name of Dunaverty from Dunamortaich, or "rock of blood," from the scenes of warfare which it witnessed. At the close of Mon- trose's Eoyalist War, 1647, a remnant of his forces, chiefly Irish, under Alaster M'Collkeitoch, being de- feated by the Marquis of Argyle, took refuge in Dunaverty, from whence Colkitto sailed to Ireland, 202 Route 2L—Mun of Cantyre. Sect. III. leaving 300 men as garrison. During his absence the Covenanter General Leslie besieged the place with a force of 3000 men, and the castle, which was naturally impregnable, was forced to yield at last from the stoppage of the supplies of water. The unfortunate garrison were all most cruelly put to death, the only ones who escaped being a young man named M 'Coul, and a nurse to the infant of Macdonald. About 2 m. off the coast is the Isle of Sanda, containing a light- house and a summer residence belong- ing to the proprietor (D. J. K. M 'Donald, Esq.) About 1 m. to the W. of Dunaverty is Keill House, let as a fishing and shooting lodge. There is another large cave here, to which is attached the legend of the piper who ventured in with his dog ; the latter eventually coming out, but the piper losing his way for ever. The same story is told of several caves in Scotland, and particularly of one on the S. coast of Mull. About 1 m. inland is Southend, a neat little village with a decent Inn. At Carskay the road crosses the stream of the Glen Breckay, and farther on that of Glenmanuilt, from whence it takes the high groiind for about 2 m. to the lighthouse of the IMull of Cantyie ; or the pedestrian may keep close to the coast and visit the Danish fort at Balcinacumra, situated at the top of a perpendicular rock overlooking the sea, and sur rounded by 3 walls. The Mull of Cantyre (sujiposed by some to be the Epidium Promon- torium of the Eomans), although of no great height, is attractive from its Avild and j)recipitous rocks and the tremendous currents and tides that beat against them, and which in rough weather are fearful to behold. At the summit of the rock is the Mull Lighthouse, built by Peter Stuart in 1788, and aftenvards remodelled by Robert Stevenson : the tower is sheathed with copper, and contains a light visible for 22 nautical miles. The view from it is remark- ably fine, extending over the N. coast of Ireland, the island of Eathlin, Islay, and a vast extent of the Atlantic. The geological composition of the rocks is that of the quartzose sandstones of the Lower Silurian series. From the Mull a road runs N., vdiloL glorious sea views, every now and then crossing a picturesque glen. After passing the Beacon of Crochmoy, it skirts, about 4 m. from the lighthouse, the base of the granite mountain of Sliahh, which rises to the height of 2000 ft. Under the northern slopes lies the fine open bay of Macrihanish, near which is the parish and village of Kil Coivin, where the ruins of the ch. or oratory of St. Coivin are still visible. In the burial-ground are some curious old sculptured tombstones. There is a good road from hence to Campbeltown through Dalavaddy, where there is a small patch of car- boniferous beds, and where coal (of an inferior quality) is worked to supph'^ the neighbourhood. A canal was formed to take it to Campbel- town to be shipped, but it is found more convenient to bring coal from the Ayrshire coast. From Dalavaddy it is 3 m. to Campbeltown.] EOUTE 25. Campbeltown to Tarbert, by Barr and "West Tarbert Loch.. A coach leaves Campbeltown every morning, except on Thursday and Saturday, for Tarbert, skirting the western coast of Cantvre, and offer- W. Scotland. Route 25. — Campheltoion to Tarhert. 203 iug on a fine day a beautiful excur- sion by what Macculloch calls "a very amusing road. " For the first few miles the way lies inland, through a moorland dis- trict, relieved at one spot by an avenue of limes. 4 m. is the ancient cemetery of Kilchenzie, still in use. As the road ascends the hill, the traveller gains on 1. a distant view of the clitis of Macrihanish Bay. At 6h ni. is a picturesque glimpse of Tangy Glen, and again where the road crosses, farther on, the stream of the Barr Burn, passing the prettily- wooded demesne of Glenbar Abbey (Keith M'Alister, Esq.) The house, though ancient, has been consider- ably modernised, and is beautifully situated amidst rich timber. There is a decent little inn in the village of Barr, although its outward appear- ance is not prepossessing. The road now regains the coast, and very fine views are obtained at Glencrcggan (rt.) "The portion of the Irish coast seen from Glencreggan is that of Fair Head and the Giant's Causeway, in the front of which Rathlin Island is plainly visible. Then come Islay and Jura, their rugged outlines forming one long bold line against the sky, the Paps of Jura being the most conspicuous feature. Between us and them lie the prett}' islets of Cara and Gigha. The western coast of Cantyre stretches in long perspective to the rt. Islay is about 28 m., and Jura 34 m. in length ; but from the cir- cumstance of Islay overlapping Jura, the two at first sight appear to fonn one long island. These four islands of the southern Hebrides — Islay, Jura, Cara, and Gigha (pronounced " Yeea ") — are a lovely feature in the view, more especiallj^ when seen from the moors on the hills behind Glen- creggan, from whence we can ' ' sight " anotlier portion of the Hebridean group — the islands of Colonsay and Oronsay ; and still farther to the rt. the island of Scarba, with the Gulf of Corryvi'echan, while shado^^y Mull fills in the background." — Glencreg- gan, by C. Bede. From Glencreggan the road winds down a steep hill to the seaside, where there is a cave with the unpronounceable name of Beallo- chaghaochean, and then keeps close to the shore to Mausdale \illage, in the parish of Killean. A little be- fore reaching the church the traveller gets a peep up the Clachaig Glen. In the village a tall chimney calls the attention to the manufacture of starch from the farina of potatoes, now given up. Beyond the manse and kirk of Killean are the ruins of the old kirk, very rude and primi- tive, though containing a double window with tooth moulding. 18 m. Tayinloan village, near which the road passes Largie Castle, the seat of C. Moreton Macdonald, Esq., a fine modernised building of the Scotch baronial style, in a prettily- wooded park, through which flows the stream that rises in Loch Ulaga- dale. The Llacdonalds of Largie were in former times the most con- siderable proprietors in Cantyre. [From Tapnloan there is a ferry to the island of Gigha (or Yeca), about 4 m. distant from the mainland, and separated from the smaller islet of Cara by the still smaller one of Gigulum. The principal village in Gigha is Ardminish, on the W. coast, which boasts of a ch. and a manse, but there is not much to see in the island save a fortification in the middle of the islet called Dun Chifie, and a blow-hole, called in Gaelic Sloc- an-leim, or the Squirting Cave, from which the sea in rough weather throws up high jets. l!s'ear Ardminish kirk are a few remains of an older one, with sonie monumental relics. Cara also has an old ruined chapel.] 204 Bouie 2G. — Glasgow to Islay and Jura. Sect. III. At Kilmichael tlie road crosses auotlier picturesque stream, that has its source in Loch Garisdale, 25 m. Ronachan, the seat of Allan Pollock, Esq. , celebrated in Scotland and Ireland for his enthusiasru and success in model farming. A little farther on is the village of Claclian, prettily situated in the bot- tom of a dell, to which several streams converge. It is sheltered by the woods and grounds of Ballinakill. The hill of Dunskeig, which overlooks it on the L, is marked by a vitrified fort and some intrenchments. It is worth ascending for the sake of the lovely view over West Loch Tarbert, a long narrow Highland loch that runs inland for about 11 m., and sepa- rates the districts of Cantyre and Knapdale. The wooded shores of Knapdale have been taken advantage of by owners of property for their resi- dences, several of which grace the loch. As the road from Clachan to Tarbert surmounts the steep hill, the traveller gains a view in succession of Ardpatrick House (Capt. James C. Campbell), and Dunmore (W. Campbell, Esq.) On the E. side of the loch the road passes Stonefield (C. G, Campbell, Esq.) and the vil- lage of Whitehouse Inn, where a road on rt. is given off to Skipuess and the E. coast of Cantyre. + 35 m, Tarbert {Inn : Islay Arms), a busy and important village, the chief centi'e of the herring-fishery of Loch Fyne, is most picturesquely situated at the head of East Loch Tarbert, which is about 1 m. in length, and in its rugged rocks and landlocked waters widely differs from the softer beauties of West Loch Tarbert. The East Loch is overlooked by the Castle, which, though now crumbling, Avas once the stronghold of Cantyre, and for a time the residence of Kobert Bruce and King James II. It "is said to have been supplied with water from the other side of the loch, con- veyed under the harbour by pipes." The visitor \\\1\ be interested in all the busy preparations for herring- fishing, and the loading of the steamers, if his olfactory nerves are not too strongly acted on by the smell of the fish. Tarbert, or Tarbet (Gaelic, Tairb- lieart = an isthmus), is a name which frequently occurs in Scotland. In this instance it describes very well the "portage" between E. and W. Lochs Tarbert. The same may be said of Tarbet on Loch Lomond, which is only 1 i m. from Loch Long, and indeed of every place that bears this name. This narroAV neck is not much more than 1^ m. across. Plans have been suggested for cutting a ship-canal through it. The "lona" calls daily in the summer from Glasgow to Ardrishaig, and arrives oft' the pier on Loch Fyne, which is about § m. from the village (Rte. 27). 2d. is charged each passenger for pier dues. There is also a slow steamer, twice or three times a week, to Inveraray and Glasgow ; but as she is in the season laden to the brim with herring- boxes, it is not an advisable convey- ance. A steamer also calls at West Tarbert once a week from Islay, re- turning thither the same day. It is about 4 hours' sail. ROUTE 26. Glasgow to Islay and Jura. A steamer leaves Glasgow every Monday morning for the two Islay harbours. Port Ellen and Port Askaig ; but as she sails round the Mull of Cantyre, passengers for Islay would do well to go by the " lona " on Tuesday morning to Tarbert, from whence a conveyance can be got to W. Scotland. Boute 2Q.—IsIay—Forf Ashiig ; Kildaltoii. 205 West Tarhcrt, 1| m. (Ete. 25), in time to catch the Islay steamer on her return journey to Port Ellen. IsloAj is seldom visited by tourists, who usually follow the route through the Crinan Canal, ignoring every- thing to the south ; but although it does not possess scenery of the highest order, and is inferior in this respect to Jura, there is much to interest the traveller. It is the most westerly as well as the largest island of the Southern Hebrides, being 30 m. long by 24 broad, and containing in its 3 parishes of Kilchoman, Kilmeny, and Kildalton, a pop. of about 16,000. It closely adjoins the island of Jura, separated only by the Sound of Islay, a narrow strait, lined by precipitous cliffs. They correspond so nearly with those of the opposite coast that the imagination is perforce carried back to the time when not only Islay and Jura were contiguons with each other, but also with the mainland, and even with Rathlin Island and the N. coast of Ireland. A very strong and unpleasant current runs through the sound, rendering the navigation rather intricate. The outline of the coast is irregular on the S. and N., the largest portion of the island being on the E., which is separated by a naiTow isthmus from the western prolongation of the Ehynns. The deep indentations thus formed are Loch-in-Daal on the S. and Loch Gruinaird on the N., which penetrate inland like Nor- wegian fiords. The interior is by no means lofty ; the highest point, Sgor-na-Faoileann, being only 1444 ft., while the hills on the W. are considerably lower. The finest coast scenery is to be found at the Point of the Ehynns, and from Laggan Bay round the Mull of Oe (the most southernly promontory) to I^oudans Bay on the E. side. "The eastern coast, as far as Ardtala, consists of a rugged line of low rocks, much in- dented and beset with islands — ^the ([uartz rock here forming the higher and more precipitous shore, of which Macarthur's Head is the most con- spicuous point. " — Macculloch. + Port Askaig is a snug little har- bour with a decent Inn, tolerably well sheltered by woods and planta- tions on the slopes of the hills, in the narrowest part of the Strait, separating it from Jura, here only ^ m. wide, and ti'aversed by a Ferry. To the K.W. of the town lead was formerly worked, and the proprietor of the estate used silver plate from his own mines. Two roads branch off from this point, one to Bridgend (8 m.), thence to Bowmore (11 m.), and another to Port Ellen (20 m.), making the circuit of the Mull. The latter keeps close to the coast, and, except for sea-\dews, which include the coast of Gigha and the opposite Cantyi-e shore, is comparatively un- interesting. At Macarthur's Head, a prominent point at the S. end of Islay Islancl, there is a lighthouse. Near Ardmore, 14 m., is the burying- place of Kildalton (one of the island parishes), containing a couple of Sculjitured Crosses, and a little far- ther S., overlooking Laggavoulin Bay, are the remains of a strongly- built round tower called Dun Kaom- haig, supposed to be one of the for- tresses of the powerful ]\Iacdonalds, lords of Islay. The road now winds under the hill of Cnoc, where two upright stones mark the supposed resting-place of a Danish princess named Yula, whence Islay may have derived its name. 20 m. Port Ellen or Ellinor, a modern village, named in honour of Lady Eleanor (L'ampbell of Islay, has some large distilleries, which," with horses and black cattle, are the source of the principal riches of the island. From here a road cuts across the peninsula of the Oe to the W. coast, while another goes as far as the cliffs of the Mull, where there is a cave called Sloe Mhaol Doradh ; it is, however, only accessible from the 206 Route 26. — Iday ; Boimnore. Sect. III. sea, and the visitor will require a boat. The extreme point of the Mull is occupied by the remains of an old entrenchment called Dun Aird. The road now coasts along the smooth bay of Laggan, and at the base of the range of Sgur Voucharan, 1157 ft. Crossing the Laggan river, and reaching the upper portion of Loch- in-Daal at Ardlarach Point, the traveller reaches Boivmore (11 m. from Port As- kaig), the chief town of Islay, with a pop. of about 1000, and good Inn. Loch-in-Daal was the scene of the exploits of an American privateer in 1813, which fired and rifled several merchant vessels lying at anchor. 3 m. to the N. is Bridgend (a good inn), adjoining the pretty grounds and woods of Islay or the White House, formerly the residence of Campbell of Islay, for centuries owners of the island, now the pro- perty of Chas. Morrison, Esq. At Bridgend the road from Port Askaig comes in, for the first part of its course exceedingly pretty, until it reaches the moorland. Distances of Bridgend from — Port Ellen, 11 m. ; Port Askaig, 8. The steamer calls at Port Ellen 3 times a week, and once at Port Askaig. Omnibuses from Bridgend meet the steamer at both j^laces. About halfway is Kilmeny kirk and manse, and a little nearer Port Askaig, Kilmeny Loch, the source of the river Sorn, which accompanies the road to Bridgend. About 1^ m. to the N. of Kilmeny Loch and 2^ to W. of Port Askaig, is FinJagan Loch. On its Island are the re- mains of the principal Castle of the Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles, who here held their court. From Bridg- end the excursion can be continued to the Ehynns, the road keeping close to the head of Loch-in-Daal, and skirting the opposite coast to Port Charlotte, and the little village of Portnahaven, near the end of the point. On Oversay Island, just ofi' the point of the PJiynns, is a Light- house, showing a flashing light every 5 seconds. " The promontory of the Rhynns is noted for the extreme violence and rapidity of the tides that run past it — scarcely less violent and fearful than the stream of Corry- vi'echan, and attended with currents even more difficult to explain. In the most remarkable case that occurs here, a narrow channel is found be- tween the body of the island and the 2 small islets Chenzie and Oversay, and in this strait the time of the ebb is IO4 hours, that of the flood being but 1^, while on the outside of these islands, the twelve hours are, as in the open sea, equally divided between the ebb and the flood. " — Macculloch. Keeping the W. coast, the traveller will reach Kilchoman ch., from whence a road runs direct to Bridg- end, i^assing the estate of Sunderland (A. Maclaren, Esq., who has done very much for this portion of the island in developing agriculture, and encouraging deep-sea fishing at Port- nahaven, where large numbers of cod are caught). Instead of proceeding direct to Bridgend, however, the tourist may visit several interesting spots in the northern portion of the Khynns, particularly at Loch Guirm or Gorm, where are the ruins of a square fort, another stronghold of the ]\Iacdonalds. The coast in this portion of the island is extremely fine, and contains numerous caverns. The principal one is at Sannigmore, visited by Pennant, who thus describes it : — ' ' The entrance was difficult, but after some trouble we found the inside of an immense extent and height, the roof solid rock, which returned with the noise of thunder the discharge of our muskets. With- in this cave was another, straight before us, with a fine arched entrance. We found one gi-otto divided into numbers of far -winding passages, sometimes opening into fine ex- panses, again closing for a long space W. Scotland. Route 26. — Jura ; Pa^js of Jura. 207 into galleries, passable, but with diffi- culty — a perfect subterranean laby- rinth." This spot was noted for a terrible shipwreck in 1847, when the "Ex- mouth," with her freight of 240 emigrants, was lost with all hands. Cutting across the promontory, the traveller will descend to the shores of Loch Gruinaird, which indents the jS". coast for a considerable distance, though not nearly to the same extent as Loeh-in-Daal does the S. A fierce battle was fought here in 1588, between the Macdonalds of Islay and the jNI 'Leeds of JMull, with whom they had a feud, and who had invaded the island. The latter were driven back with the loss of their leader. The history of Islay is al- together identified with the Mac- donalds, who held sway as Lords of the Isles after the Norwegian occu- pation, which may still be traced in many of the names of places. The power of the Macdonalds was how- ever broken in the reign of James III., who, angry at the number and extent of these private feuds, made a grant of the island to the familj^ of Campbell. The geological formation of Islay is that of the Lower Silurian slates, varied with occasional bands of thin limestone, and on the E. coast, near Port Ellen, with inter- bedded gi'eenstones. Jura. To the N.W. of Islay, separated only by the nari'ow sound, is the long tapering island of Jura, about 30 m. in length, containing some veiy fine scenery, but seldom visited on account of the want of accommo- dation, excepting small Inns at Craig- house and Lagg. Considering its size. Jura has a small population, the culti- vation being extremely limited, since the whole area is filled with moun- tains of a sterile character. There are a few scattered villages along the S. and E. coasts, which are provided with a road ; the W. coast is utterly uninhabited, and the centre of the island is deeply indented by Loch Tarbet, which nearly cuts it in two. There is o. ferry from Port Askaig to Feolin, the road on the Jura side running round the S. coast to Ardfin, the residence of Richard Campbell, Esq., in whose family the lordship of Jura has been retained since 1666. From thence the road skirts the E. to the northern exti^emity of the island, the usual landing-place from Ciinan and the mainland. About half-way up is the little fishing- village of Lagg (Inii), whence there is a ferry to Knapdale (8^ m.) ; higher up again is Ardlussa, the residence of Col. M'Xeill, V. C. The most romantic scenery is found in the S. division, and consists principally of the Pajys of Jura, three mammillary eminences which are con- spicuous landmarks in the Hebridean Sea. The most lofty is Bein-an-oir (Mountain of Gold), 2675 ft., Ben-a- chaolois (Mountain of the Sound), 2412 ft., and Bein-sheunta (or the Hallowed Mountain). There is no difficulty whatever in the ascent, which is worth making for the sake of the magnificent views over the Atlantic and the coast of jMull. From the W. side of the Paps runs a narrow strip of rock, terminating in the sea, and called " the slide of the old hag." To the S. of the Paps are Dubh Beinn (1735 ft.), and Brut Beinn (1123 ft.), while the northern portion of the island has Ben Breac (1482 ft.), and Ben Garris- dde (1210 ft.). The Antiquities of Jura are few, and consist of a singu- lar line of stones running down sea- wards fi'om Bein-an-oir, and traces of a triple entrenchment on the N. side of the bay overlooking the Small Isles. To the N. of Jura is the small island of Sccirha, separated by the terrible gulf — " Wliere Corryvreckan's surges driven. Meet, moiint, and lash the breast of heaven." $ 208 Boiite 26. — Jura: Corryvreclian ; Oronsay. Sect. III. Corryvreclmn or Corieblireacain, " the cauldron of the spectred sea," is the terror of light craft sailing these seas, although, as in all cases of so- called whirlpool, the effects of it are immensely exaggerated. " Through the channel, about | m. in breadth, the sea rushes with a velocity (as ascertained by the Admiralty sur- veyors) of 9^ miles an hour. By the pilots of the district the speed is re- puted to be 17 or 18 miles an hour. There are two circumstances which greatly increase the effect. One is, that in the northern side of the channel, or near the coast of Scarba, and towards the western mouth of the channel, there is a large rock or shoal on which the depth is about \ of that in the neighbouring parts of the bay, and on this the sea some- times breaks with great fury. The other is, that when the current is opposed to the wind, and especially when the outward current is opposed to the prevalent westerly wind, the whole channel is covered Avith high rolling breakers." — G. B. A. In rough weather, at the flood- tide, which curiously sets to the W. out to sea, it is a very awful-looking place, which no mariner in his senses would care to attempt ; but in smooth weather vessels of certain tonnage can sail over it without danger. The poet Campbell de- clares that the sound of Corry- vrechan can be heard for many leagues on the mainland, and that it is like the sound of innumerable chariots. The passage between Scarba and Lunga is easier of access, and more striking. ' ' Supposing the visitor to be on the inside of the islands, he can venture to approach most nearly when the sea is rushing inwards through the passage. And here he will see a commotion of waters such as perhaps he can nowhere else wit- ness. He will be borne along on a white foaming sea at a gallop speed. We have seen, at^jthe distance of 30 ft. from our boat, a rapid conical whirl, of perhaps 40 or 50 ft. in diameter, force itself, like a huge corkscrew, towards the bottom of the sea. This passage is called in Gaelic * Bheallaich a Choin Ghlais, ' Pass of the Grey Dog, but the sailors call it the Little Gulf."— 6-'. B. A. About 9 m. to the W. of Jura are the isles of Oronsay and Colonsay, almost touching each other — indeed connected for three hom"s at low water. Oronsay, small as it is, contains some of the most interesting ecclesi- astical ruins, next to lona, in the W. of Scotland, consisting of a mo- nastery founded in the 14th centy. by the Lords of the Isles. The Church, which is roofless, is about 60 ft. in length, and almost entirely without decoration, and adjoining it is the cloister, the arches of which, when in preservation, were very peculiar. On two of the sides there were 7 triangular-headed low arches, with plain square columns, but on the other tliey Avere round-headed. In Pennant's time there were a great many tombstones, some of which represented warriors 7 ft. high — "a flattery perhaps of the sculptor, to give to future ages exalted notions of their prowess." There is also the tomb of an abbot named ]\Iacdufie, who, it is said, Avas executed by the Lord of the Isles for his tyranny. In the churchyard is a fine sculptured Cross, the head of which is adorned Avith a relief of the Crucifixion. The inscription at the base is to the memory of Colin, Chief of Oronsay, who died in 1510. Both these islands are associated with and took their respectiA^e names from St. Columba, and St. Oran his companion. An abbey existed also in Colonsay, but all traces of it are gone, save the foundations. This island is much larger than Oronsay, and is remark- able for the richness of its pasture, in I which it forms a marked contrast to W. Scotland. Pde. 27. — Glasgotv to Crimm Canal and Oban. 209 Jura. The late Rt. Hon. Duncan M'Neill, after being L. President of the Court of Sesn. , was raised to the jjeer- age by the title of Lord Colonsay. ROUTE 27. Glasgow to Oban, by Ibe Clyde, Dunoon, Rothesay, Loch Fyne, Ardrishaig, and Crinan Canal. Oban may be reached by several routes overland, but the one by the Crinan Canal is generally preferred by the visitors to Scotland, a regular and uninterrupted stream of whom pass backwards and forwards daily during the season. It is deservedly a favourite route, for the whole voy- age is landlocked, or otherwise so sheltered as seldom to cause disquiet to the traveller unaccustomed to the sea. Moreover the accommodation between GlasgoAV and Oban is of the finest description, and very great cre- dit is due to Messrs. Hutcheson and Co., who have organised a fleet of steamers for the service of the west- ern seas. The '^lona," which conveys the toiu-ist as far as Ardrishaig, is a superb boat both in speed and fittings. The saloons are splendidly furnished, and there is a hurricane deck for fine weather. Newspapers, books, and a post-office are provided, together with lavatories and every conve- nience for passengers ; the cuisine too is admirable, and it really is one of the sights of Scotch travel to see the tourist cargo sit down to breakfast and dinner. The "lona" leaves her moorings at the Broomielaw every morning at 7 o'clock, arriving at Ardrishaig about 1. At the farther (N.) end of the Crinan Canal another boat is waiting, which lands its passengers at Oban about .6 '30. The river portion of the route, and the S. shore of the Clyde estuary, Greenock, Wemyss Bay, and Largs, are described in Rte. 23. By using the rail from Glasgow, you can overtake [Scotland.] the "lona" at Greenock, starting half-an-hour later. By leaving Edin- burgh (W. Princes-st. stat.) at 6.30 A.M., you can also catch the " loua" at Greenock. liounding the point of the Cloch Lighthouse, the steamer crosses the Firth to rt. * t Dunoon (Rte. 29) (Eotd : Argyle), one of the most favourite of Glasgow watering-places, and then touches at i IncJlan {Hotel : Royal, very good), which, like Dunoon, has a fine frontage to the water, and a good shelter of wooded hills at the back. Instead of keeping south, the ves- sel now turns sharj) round ToAvard Point, upon which there is a light- house, the S. extremity of the pro- montory of Cowal. On rt. are the ruins of Toward Castle, a stronghold of the old family of Lament. There is but one ivy-covered tower left, but close by is the more showy modern mansion of A. S. Finlay, Esq. Across the island of Bute may be seen Goat- fell, in Arran. Immediately opposite Toward is the busy town of t Rothesay {Inns: Queen's H., West Bay, out of the town, quiet, comfortable ; Bute Arms, close to the Pier ; Royal. The Hydropathic Establishment, on the E. side of the Bay, one of the most conspicuous buildings, is also frequented as an Hotel). Rothesay, capital of Bute, is a Pari. Burgh (Pop. 7760), on the Clyde. It has long been the resort of invalids on account of its mild climate, but of late it has been over- run by the holiday-making folk and workpeople of Glasgow, and has be- come the Margate of the Clyde. It has also turned, into a manufacturing town, many hundreds of its popula- tion finding employment in three cotton mills. It has a convenient and bustling Pier, at which a steamer touches nearly every \ hour. The modern town has spread neaily round * The sign t indicates a steamboat land- ing, Fler. K 2 210 Pvoute 27. — Glasgoio to Oban: Rothesay. Sect. III. the Bay, the houses commanding the lovely view over the entrance to the Kyles of Bute. The older town mounts the hillside. In the centre of it stands the Castle, a ruin since 1685, said to have been founded in the 11th cent, by Magnus, King of N^orvvay, afterwards the property of the Stewarts, and a royal residence. The existing Castle, not older than the 14tli centy., is circular in plan, with round towers at the corners, 2 of which have fallen, and a square projecting Gatehouse, in which were the chief apartments. Eobert III., who died here, created his eldest son Duke of Rothesay, a title still borne by the Prince of Wales. Crom- well began the work of destruction here, a work completed by a brother of the Earl of Argyle, 1685. The Marquis of Bute, the hereditary keeper, has of late years cleared out the moat, and put the buildings in a thorough state of repair. A pleasant terrace walk is carried round the pre- cincts. Adjoining the castle is an im- posing-looking jail and court-house. Traversing High St., | m. walk S., you reach the Old Kirk, adjoin- ing which is a fragment of the Gothic Ch. of St. Mary, containing 2 cano- pied tombs, with eftigies of Stewarts, ancestors of the Bute family, de scended from the Nt (Dapifer). Fitz-Alau The Island of Bute, of which Rothe- say is the capital, is 18 ra. long, 5 m. broad, and has a Pop. of between 16,000 and 17,000. Great part of the island belongs to the Alarquis of Bute, whose seat, Mount Stuart, 5 m. to the S., is surrounded by very fine plantations, and contains a good collection of pictures. From the hills behind Rothesay charming views may be obtained of the Island of Arran, which is also well seen from Ettrick Bay, a pleasant drive of 5 m., passing througii Kames. Near the Bay, at St. Colmacks, are remains of a Circle of Old Stones, 4 only upright. A longer excursion is to the S. W. to Scalpsie Bay, half-way between which and Rothesay is Loch Fad, a pretty lake, 1^ m. in length, but spoiled by the embankments made by a cotton-spinning company. Near it Kean the actor had a cottage. The view looking down the loch and across to the peaks of Arran is very tine. Loch Quicn is a smaller loch, between Loch Fad and Scalpsie Bay. On the road hitlier from Rothesay are the remains of a Cliapel contain- ing some stone effigies said to be "the stout Stewarts of Bute," bro- thers in arms of Wallace. ] At Laiigalchorid, in the S.W., are , some old stone remains. The road is continued to the very S. of the island. There are a vitrified fort at Dung oil, "the ruins of an early Ro- manesque ch. of St. Blane, with an : elegant pointed chancel, standing on a large mound and surrounded by a wall of unhewn stones, and another I curious circular ruin in an adjoining i wood, called The Devil's Caldron. 1 Ascog Hall (J. B. Stewart, Esq.), has extensive gardens and beautiful conifers in its grounds. After leaving the pier at Rothesay the steamer enters the Kyles of Bute, a narrow, tortuous, and almost land- locked Strait between the N. half of Bute and the mainland, forming an acute bend between it and the Isle of Bute. The sail tlirough it is agreeable, the scenery, without be- ing fine, is exceedingly good, the hills covered with copsewood, and descending pretty steeply to the Avaterside, which is fringed with many a little seaside villa or cottage ornee. At the head of the Bay of Kames is the pier and village of t Port Bannatyne or Kamesburgh, near which is the modern mansion of Kames Castle (Marq. of Bute — let). On rt. pass Achavullin, Port Lament, and the entrance to Loch Striven, a long arm of the sea, at the head of which may be seen the W. Scotland. Route 27. — Loch Fijne ; Tarhert. 211 rounded tops of the Cowal mount- ains. Upon the peninsula that separates Lochs Striven and Ridden is South Hall, a charming place, be- longing to J. Campbell, Esq. Stoppages are made at t Colin- traive Pier, at the mouth of rt. Loch Ridden, and Eilan Gerig, upon Avhich a fort was built in 1685, by the Earl of Argyle, in his unsuccessful invasion of Scotland. It was sub- sequently dismantled by an English fleet. This invasion was under- taken in conjunction with that of Monmouth in the W. of England, and had an equally disastrous termi- nation, both leaders being beheaded, the one at Edinburgh and the other on Tower Hill. There are a pier and Inn at i Ormidalc, some 2 m. up Loch Ridden, from Avhence a road runs N. to Loch Fyne, by the valley of Glendaruel. Rounding the point and turning southward, the steamer passes on the 1. 2 pieces of rock in a green hollow, rudely painted, known as the "Maids of Bute." At+ TigJmabruichjWheYe the Kyles begin to Aviden, are an hotel and a small colony of marine villas, which enjoy a distant view of the Arran mountains. The vessel now rounds Ardlamont Point, the most southerly promontory of the Cowal district, keeping on 1. the island of Inchmarnock, with its ruined chapel of St. Marnock, and soon enters the noble estuary of Loch Fyne. The view is now bounded by the hills of Cowal on the rt., and the equally monotonous ones of Knapdale on 1., having in sight, lower down on Cantyre, the castle of Skijmess (Rte. 24). The steamer next wends its way up Loch Fyne, one of the largest Scotch sea-lochs, which stretches for about 10 m. beyond Inveraray, alto- gether a distance of some 40 m. It is famous for its herrings, which, when eaten fresh, are an entirely different article of food from herrings as usually bought, and indeed are one of the greatest delicacies of the fish department. The fishing has latterly, however, very much dete- riorated from some unexplained cause. The steamer touching at Tarbert (Rte. 25) gives passengers an oppor- tunity to land in Cantyre, a penin- sula of Argyllshire, stretchings, into the sea 40 m., and also to catch the Islay steamer which comes up to West Tarbert, about Ih m. hence. A coach leaves East Tarbert daily (except on Thursdays and Satur- days) for Camjjbeltown, arriving there about 9 in the evening. (Rte. 25.) The steamer now passes on 1. Bar- more, the handsome modern seat of Mr. Campbell of Stonefield, and the long ridge of Sliabh Ooil, generally supposed to be the scene of the death, from a wild boar, of Ossian's "Diarmid." On the opposite E. shore lie the picturesque wood and mansion of Ardviarnock (Dr. Nicol). Above Barmore is Inverneil Kirk, a little beyond which the steamer arrives at the head of Loch Gilp and i" Ardrishaig, where the traveller leaves the " lona," to be transferred by the Crinan Canal to the Oban boat. The heavy baggage is at once taken out and put into large vans, which are driven across the isthmus. The distance from the "lona" to the passage boat is about 5 of a mile, which the tourist has to walk, the only disagreeable part of the journey, as there is always an immense crowd assembled on the pier, partly of fishermen, partly of touters and por- ters, and partly of the passengers from Oban waiting to embark in the returning " lona." For those who wish to stay at iArdrishaig, the Royal is a good Ian. During the season a coach starts from the pier on the arrival of the steamers to convey tourists to Ford on Loch Awe, where a steamer meets the coach. This is a magni- ficent route to Oban (Rte. 28). 212 Fa 97 ■Crinan Canal ; Crimui. Sect. III. The Crinan Canal, by Avhich passengers are conveyed across the isthmus from Ardrishaig on Loch Fjaie to Crinan on the W. ocean, is 9 m, long, and was cut in 1822 to obviate the necessity of the long and dangerous voyage round the Mull of Cantyre, for which purpose it is broad enough to receive ships and steamers of considerable burden. It is supplied with water from natural reservoirs in the hills, the banks of one of which gave way in Feb. 1859, and by flooding the canal, caused it to burst its boundaries. It was closed for 15 months, in con- sequence of this accident, traces of which are even yet visible. The passengers are conveyed in a tiny but neat steamer, with a roof to it, which, when crowded with tourists, presents a curious appear- ance. The distance is completed in 2 hours, one being entirely taken up by the delays at the 9 locks. During these stoppages most people get out and walk, rejoining the boat at the last lock. The scenery along the canal is peculiar, and in many places exceedingly picturesque, the bed of the canal having been deeply ex- cavated out of the mica schist, from which great thickets of underwood and bramble spring up, mingled with flowers and ferns. For the first 2 m. the boat skirts the bay of Loch Gilp, at the head of which is Lochgilphead village, and (on the opposite side) Kilmorie, the mansion and beautifully-wooded es- tate of Sir J. Orde, Bt. Then come the residence of the Bishop of Argyll, the county Lunatic Asylum, and on 1. the grounds of Auchindarroch (A. Campbell, Esq.) Halfway the sum- mit level is reached, and the descent to the Atlantic commences. At 6i m. 1. is the village of Bella- nacli [Whence a very pretty road runs S. to Loch Siren, a beautiful and characteristic fiord. The tourist should proceed due S. for 1 m., when the road diverges. Take the one to the 1. to Kilmichael Litssa, 5 m., where a boat may be obtained. About 3 parts down the loch on the E. is Castle Swen or Siveno, a strong, square fortress. At the very mouth of the loch, and forming part of the promontory that divides it from Loch Killisport, is Eilean Mor, which con- tains the ruins of an early oratory and chapel of St. Cormac, with the tombstone of a priest, who is repre- sented in his robes, with some gro- tesque figures. There is also a CJuipel at Kilmory, with many old sculptured monuments, near the end of the pro- montory. From Keills, on the W. coast of Loch Swen, the pedestrian can obtain a ferryboat to Jura, 8 m.] N'ear Ballenoch the river Add joins issue with the canal, flowing through a wide and open moorland. An enormous quantity has been re- claimed, at a very great expense, by John Malcolm, Esq., M.P., of Pol- talloch, whose beautiful house is seen on the N., overlooking the estate, backed up by rising woods and craggy ridges of hill. Model farming has been carried on largely here, and, it is believed, with very profitable results. At Crinan, a village with an Inn and a Lighthouse, where the canal terminates in the Sound of Jura, the passengers again betake themselves to the steamer for Oban, a voyage of 3 hrs. The accommodations on board the steamer "Chevalier," or any other of Hutcheson's boats which may happen to be on the route at the time, are quite as good as those of the " lona." On this side, if the wea- ther is rough, the passengers may pro- bably get a taste of the Atlantic swell, although the number of islands breast- ing the sea generally secure an easy passage inshore. From the village of Crinan, which is on the IST. side of Loch Crinan, a road runs along the coast to Oban, by Melfort Pass (Rte. 28). On the moss of Crinan is Lunadd, the ancient capital of Dal- W. Scotland. Boute 28. — Jrdrishaig to Oban, by Loch Awe. 213 riada (Skene). As the steamer leaves Loch Crinan, through " Dorish- more," "the great gate," it passes on rt. Duntroon (J. Malcolm, Esq.) an old fortress modernised, and then (also on rt.) the entrance to Loch Craignish, another of the character- istic W. coast arms, with a string of islands dotting it. On the point is Craignish Castle. " The coast from Craignish Point to Loch Melfort presents many striking scenes, pro- duced by the remains of trap veins, which, like those in Mull, stand up like walls and castles on the shore." — Macculloch. To the 1. is seen the island of Jura, with its long line of dark hills, forming a bold skyline. The 3 dome -shaped mount- ains are the Paps of Jura, behind which is Islay (Rte. 26.). To the N. of the island, separating it from Scarba, is the dreaded Gulf of Corry- vrechan (Rte. 26), and beyond it are the islands of Orousay and Colon- say. The vessel now passes, a number of inlets and islands — Loch Melfort, at the head of which is the village of Kilmelfort, Scarba, Lunga, Luing Island, and the island of Shuna, succeeded by those of Easdale and Sheil, both famous for their slate- quarries. Emerging again into the open, fine views are obtained of the cliffs of Mull, which, on the S. and S. W., present magnificent escarpments. Between Shell and Luing Island is the Sound of Cuan, through which a tremendous current generally flows. Shell island is se- parted from the mainland by a narrow strait, across which is a bridge of 70 ft. span. On rt. is Loch Feochan, beyond which the tourist occasion- ally gets a distant view of Ben Cruachan, and the steamer soon after enters the Sound of Kerrera, formed by the island of Kerrera, which makes an excellent natural breakwater for the harbour of Oban. At its S. end is the ruined castle of Gulin, an old Danish fortress, in which Alexander II. died in 1249, having come to the W. with the in- tention of recovering the Hebrides. On the rt. is Gallenach House, the seat of Major J. M'Dougall. At the ]Sr. j)ortion of the Sound the steamer rounds the point, and enters the harbour of Oban (Ete. 31). ROUTE 28. Ardrishaig to Oban, by Loch Awe and Gorge of the Brander. A tourist's coach leaves Ardrishaig daily during the season, after the arrival of the "lona" and the Oban steamer, conveying the passengers to Ford, at the head of Loch Awe. Here it forms a connection Avitli a steamer, which makes the journey up and down once a day, meeting at Cladich the coach to Inveraray, and bringing on its passengers to Brander, where a third coach is waiting to go on to Oban. A few miles before reaching Loch Awe a 4th coach is met, return- ing to Oban by the pass of Melfort, so that tourists can now leave Oban by one coach and return to it the same day by another route, or can do the same thing as regards Oban and Inveraray. Passing through the village of Ardrishaig, and leaving that of Loch- gilphead (Rte. 27) on rt,, the road takes a N. course through a tolerably level bit of countrj'-, and crosses the Add, a rapid sti^eam, rising in the hills between Lochs Awe and Fyne, and falling into the Atlantic at Crinan. 3 m. the road passes the village of Kilmichael Glassary, once celebrated for its Cross, now re- moved to the grounds of Poltalloch, It is a conspicuous feature in the landscape, which here becomes broken and picturesqiae. linear Glassary is Kirnan, of which the last occupant was Archibald 214 Route 28. — Loch Awe. Sect. III. Campbell, grandfather of the poet, who, when he visited it, found it ruinous, which called forth the lines — ** At the silence of twilight's contemplative hour I have gazed, in a sorrowful mood, On the wind-shaken weeds that embosom the bower Where the home of my forefathers stood. All ruined and wild is their roofless abode, And lonely the dark raven's sheltering tree." 10 m. Kilmartin is a pretty village, with the spire of the Ch. crowning the hill, and the shell of an old tower. In the churchyai'd are several old monumental crosses. There is an- other old ruin a little farther on, at Carnassary, on the bank to 1. of the road. At this point the coach is met by one bringing passengers from Oban to make the round by Loch xVwe, and receiving others from tlie Ardrishaig coach. Ascending a long hill, Loch Aligan, a beautiful little lake, makes its ap- pearance, with the residence of Elderline on its E. bank ; it is closely succeeded by Loch Awe, at the head of which (at the Inn of '\ Ford) the tourist changes his con- veyance, and betakes himself to the small steamer. Loch Aioe is one of the largest and most beautiful of Scottish lakes, although the characteristics of most lakes, of possessing the finest scenery at the head, is here reversed, the head being comparatively tame, and the foot being magnificently grand. The researches of geologists bear out the theory that these positions have been reversed. "The present out- flow of the lake through the deep narrow gorge of the Pass of Brander is comparatively recent. No one can ascend from the Sound of Jura to Kilmartin, and thence up the ter- raced valley to Loch Awe, without being convinced that this must have been the old outlet of the great valley of that loch." — GeiJcie. The length is about 26 m., and a little steamer makes the trip once a day. Roads run alongside each bank for the whole length, but they are not very good ; the best is on the E. side. The hills on either side are of no great height, and are somewhat tame, but as the passenger sails north- wards, the enormous mass of Ben Cruachan fills up the landscape to the N., and constitutes one of the most striking scenes in the High- lands. On an island at the S. end on rt.is the shell of the old castle of Fconachan, and about a quarter of the distance on rt. is Eredine, the property of N, Malcolm, Esq. Higher up is Inish Chonel, with the ruins of another fortress that anciently belonged to the Lords of Lochaw, through which district the tourist is now journeying. There is an old Scotch proverb, " It's a far cry to Lochaw," originally emanat- ing from a Campbell, who was over- powered by enemies in the distant N., but it ultimately was used to signify the" enormous breadth of the Campbells' possessions, inasmuch as any challenge from an enemy could not reach them. Close to Inish Chonel is Innis Errech, containing an old chapel and cemetery. About 2 m. farther on the same side is the waterfall of Blairgour, where the stream falls into such a precipitous gulf, that in wet weather its situation is conspicuous for a long distance by the immense column of sj)ray rising from it. On the opposite side of the lake is the mouth of a stream issuing from lioch Avich. At Port Sonachan there are two good Inns, one in iV., the other in *S'. Sonachan — capital rendezvous for anglers. Also a ferry to the W. bank, from whence a wild road runs to Tay- nuilt, about 6 m. From Port Son- achan northwards is the cream of Loch Awe scenery, as the steamer gets nearer and nearer to the rifted masses of Ben Cruachan, and the fine valley W. Scotland. Route 28. — Cladich — Pass of Bmnder '2\D of Glen Strae. At Cladich there is a small Pier to embark passengers from Inveraray by the coach which runs thence to Dalmally (6 m.) and Oban (Rte. 31). If the weather is wet or gusty, it is by no means a pleasant way of getting to Inveraray, as the tourist has sometimes an hour or more to wait for steamer or coach, and there is no shelter- — not a shed. The road from Inveraray continues from Cladich 6 m. to Dalmally, and there falling into the Tyndrum and Oban road. Having taken in the Cladich passengers, the steamer turns round, and crosses the lake, which is here con- siderably broader. It lands passen- gers for Dalmally at Inystrynich, and passing Kilchurn Castle (Rte. 31), Innisfail island, with its old ecclesiastical ruins and cemetery, and Innisfraoch, where the M'Naughtens had a (ruined) castle, glides under the shadow of Ben Cruachan, into the arm of the lake which forms the commencement of the Pass of Awe or the Brander. " Ben Cniachan stands as fast as ever. Still downward foams the Awe's fierce river." Here the mountains on each side close in with a startling abniptness, casting a shade over the deej) dark waters of the lake, and leaving room only for the carriage-road along the side. The most wonderful effects are produced after rain, when hun- dreds of cataracts dash down on either side, and by reflection in the water make it appear as though there were an inverted arch of waterfall through which the vessel is sailing. In about '1\ m. the crags rise still more abrupt- ly, until all further passage is stopped by the straitened egress of the river Awe, foaming and plunging in its rocky channel on its way to Loch Etive. The Pass of Awe is supposed to be the place where Macdougall of Lorn disputed the approach of Robert Bruce in 1308, and was defeated by him, in consequence of allowing the king's troops to gain a superior vantage ground. From here the rest of the journey to Oban, 17 m., is performed by coach, which is found waiting the arrival of the steamer at Brander (Rte. 31). Distances. — Taynuilt Inn, 7^ m. ; Dalmally, 6 ; Connell Ferry, 14 ; Oban, 17. [The route to Oban from the point where the Ardrishaig coach is met is not as fine as that by Loch Awe. At the village of Kintraw the head of Loch Craignish is reached, the road crossing the stream and Glen of Doin, and passing on rt. Barhreck, the seat of John M 'Archer, Esq. Loch Craignish is one of the most beautiful inlets on the coast, from the number of wooded islands that are dotted about, and it is well worth the pedestrian's attention. At Barach- a-hcan, on the coast of Loch Sliuna, a bye-road is given off S. to Craig- nish promontory, and another on E. to Loch Avich. At the head of Loch Melfort are the village, powder-mills, and distillery of Kilmelfort. From here a road is given off on rt. to Loch Avich, the "Loch Launa" of Ossian, a large sheet of water full of fish. It is di-ained into Loch Awe by the Avich river, the course of which is marked by a series of fine falls and deep pools. Between Kilmelfort and Kilninver the road is fine at the Pass of Mel- fort. At the latter village a road on 1. is given off to Shell Island and Easdale, where a considerable popu- lation is employed in working the slate-quarries. The scenery on the banks of Loch Feochaii is very picturesque, and, together with Loch Nell, with which it is connected by a short river, is often the subject of an excursion from Oban, which is 8 m. distant from Kilninver. 1 216 Route 29. — Glasgow to Dunoon: Kilmun. Sect. III. ROUTE 29. Glasgow to Inveraray by Dunoon, Kilmun, Holy Loch, Loch Eck, and Loch Fyne. Steamer — Glasgow to Dunoon. (Rtes. 23, 27). Dunoon to Stracliur — 25 miles — good road and pretty scenery. This is a pleasant and picturesque way of reaching Inveraray, but fa- cilities are no longer given by the running of a coach, except from Strachur to St. Catherine's, whence there is a steamer across Loch Fyne. f Dunoon {Inns : Argyle, well placed ; Douglas) is one of the best patronised of the Glasgow watering- places, and from its position, com- manding the whole sweep of the Firth of Clyde, most deservedly so. One of the best points for enjoying this view is the top of the conical rock, at the angle of West Bay, which bears traces of the foundations of an ancient Castle which played a con- siderable part in the history of the olden time. It was taken from the English by Sir Colin Campbell of Lochaw, for King David Bruce, who made him hereditary governor, an office which has descended to the Duke of Argyll. 20 or 30 steamers call at the pier daily, going up and down. The road leaves to the rt. the village of Kirn {Hotel: Queen's), a prolongation of Dunoon, and skirts the western shore of Holy Loch, a small though beautiful inlet of the sea about 2^ m. in length, surrounded by hills of considerable height. On the N. shore is Hafton (James Hunter, Esq.). On the opposite shore is f Kilmun — another freqiiented marine rendez- vous. {Inn: FierH.) Like Dunoon, it boasts of antiquity in the remains of a collegiate Church, of which the Tower alone remains (1442), and a }>urial vault, where the dead of the mighty family of Argyll rejiose, in- cluding Duncan, Lord Campbell, the founder, 1553, the Marquis, beheaded 1661, whose head was stuck on the Tolbooth of Edinburgh. It is pro- bable that the Holy Loch took its name from Kilmun (the ch. of St. Mun). A steamer from Greenock touches here several times a day. The valley of the Echaig, a very pretty stream, leads up to Loch Eck, a really fine lake 7| m. in length, although not much more than ^ of a mile in breadth. Its beauty consists in the steep and abruj^t rise of the hills from the water's edge, especially on the W. , the lofty range of Benmore, separat- ing Loch Eck from Glendaiiiel. Con- sidering how near Loch Eck is to large and fashionable watering-places, its Mild and solitary aspect aifords an unexpected contrast.- * ' It resem- bles indeed, in many respects, the lakes of the north of England, closely embosomed in their own compact mountains, yet of unex- pectedly steep and bold acclivity." — Anderson. Halfway up it is the inn of Whistlefield [whence a bye- road of 4| m. runs down Glen Finart to Ardentinny on Loch Long (Rte. 30), where the pedestrian may catch a steamer up to Arrochar, or down to Glasgow^. From the head of the loch the road ascends by the side of the Noiton, until it reaches the watershed, and descends to Strachur, on the E. bank of Loch Fyne. Near it is Strachur House (D. Campbell, Esq.). The view from this spot and for the rest of the way is charming, over Loch Fyne, the mountains at its head, the town and Castle of Inveraray, and in the gap over the shoulder of Duuaquoich the far-off mass of Ben Cruachan. t At St. Catherine's (small Inn), is a FeiTy to Inveraray, 2 m. by row- Argyll. Fife. 30. — Glasgovj to Inveraray: Loch Goil. 217 boat in ^ hr. ; and by steamer (fare Is.) twice a day in 10 minutes. Coach to Lochgoilhead. Inveraray (Rte. 31). {Hotels: Ar- gyll Arms, good ; George.) ROUTE 30. Glasgow or Greenock to Inver- aray, by Loch Goil, or by Helensburgh and Loch Long, and Arrochar. Steamers leave the Broomielaw and Greenock daily for Lochgoilhead, and the steamer "Chancellor," saloon-decked, for the head of Loch Long (Arrochar) — a voyage of about 4 hours. From Lochgoilhead a coach runs in summer to St. Catherine's, where there is a ferry to Inveraray,— and at Arrochar the tourist must take his chance of getting a seat on the Tarbet or Inveraray coach. The Loch Goil steamer calls at Greenock (Rte. 23), and taking a N.W. direction across the Firth of Clyde, and leaving on rt. the entrance to Gareloch, the first place called at is + Kilcreggan, a row of small florid villas along the shore, continued without interruption for 2 miles to t Cove, on the margin of Loch Long. The most remarkable and largest of them are Hartfield (D. Richardson, Esq.) and Craigrownie (Alex. A. Abercromby, Esq.) There is a fine view from the hill between Kilcreggan and Roseneath. + Blairmore on the W. Change steamer here for Lochgoilhead. From Cove there is a charming walk up to the ferry of Coulport, passing a number of handsome houses. Con- spicuous among these Knock Derry, on a high prominent rock, mentioned in the "Heart of Midlothian" as Knock Dimder. It replaces the old castle, but stands upon its dungeons cut in the rock. \^ScotJand.'\ 1 m. beyond is Ardpeaton (J. Walker, Esq.), and at Coulport there is a handsome house belonging to Mr. J. Kibble, and adjoining it a pretty Swiss cottage, not far from the Free Kirk. The road on the E. shore stops at Coulport, whence there is a ferry, 1^ m. across, to W. t Ardentinny, a collection of houses at the mouth of Glen Fiunart, up which runs a pleasant road to Loch Eck and Straclmr, on Loch Fyne (Rte. 29), and to Inveraray. [About 9 J m. Loch Goil * opens out to the N.W, It is even more land- locked than Loch Long, owing to a turn at the entrance. A little way up on the 1. bank are the ruins of Carrick Castle, one of the former strongholds of the Argyll family. It consists of a square keep with a projecting out- work and portion of curtain wall. At LochgoilMad, 8 m. from the entrance, is a comfortable Inn, surpassed by few for beauty of situa- tion and fine scenery. The hills at the head of Loch Goil are splen- didly grouped, and are named in Gaelic according to some fancied shape or attribute, such as Ben Dio- lad, the Hill of the Saddle; Ben Bheula, from its bright and plenti- ful verdure ; Ben Donoeh, the Hill of one field, etc. Of more noble pro- portions is Ben Ular, which fills up part of the district between Loch Goil and Strachur. The severity of the head of the loch is, however, re- lieved by the woods and grounds of Drimsynie (R. Livingstone, Esq.) A coach, corresponding with the steamer, runs to St. Catherine's steam ferry, on Loch Fyne, opposite Inveraray {see Rte. 29), 8 m. From the inn a road of 6 m. brings the tourist to the shore of Loch Fjme, passing through a romantic glen known by the name of '■'' HelVs Glen,''^ immortalised by * It is a common blunder of the Guide Books to confound Loch Goil with Loch Gi/h, the scene of Campbell's " Lord Ullin's Daughter." (.See Mull, Route 35, p. 233.) , 218 Route 31. — Loch Lomond to Oban. Sect. III. Wordsworth. From Ardno on the Loch Fyiie shores it is nearly 2 m. to St. Catherine's, where there is a 2 m. ferry across the lake direct to Inveraray (Rte. 31).] Loch Long, which, if not the most extensive, is, perhaps, the most beau- tiful of the sea lochs, runs into the heart of Argyllshire for about 20 m., though in breadth it never exceeds two, and is seldom more than one. Half-way up, the knotty ridge of hills known as Argyll's Boivling Green projects in a sort of mountain promontory, causing the branch water of Loch Goil to be deflected to the W. This sinuous loch is not to be visited by strange yachts without jjilotage. It is best to approach it by road. The m.ouutain forms at its head are especially grand. For some distance there is no road on either shore. The steamer to Arrochar does not go up Loch Goil, but after touching at Dunoon and Kirn, keeps her course straight up Loch Long. E. at t Portincaple, opposite the mouth of Loch Goil, is a ferry, whence a steep path across the moor falls into the high road from Garelochhead along the E. shore of Loch Long to Arrochar (Rte. 31), where the steamer stops about 1^ hr. before returning to Greenock. From Arrochar the tourist can either proceed to Inveraray through Glencroe by the coach, or walk or drive to Tarbet, and there catch the Loch Lomond steamer either up to Inverarnan, or down to Balloch (Rte. 19). Distances of Arrochar from — Tar- bet, on Loch Lomond, 2 m. ; Glen- croe, 6 ; Rest-and-be-Thankful, 9 ; Inveraray, 22 ; Ben Lomond, 6. ROUTE 31. Loch Lomond (Tarbet) to Oban, by the Pass of Glencroe, Inver- aray, Loch Awe, and Dalmally. Coach to Inveraray, 22 m. in 4 hrs. , fare 8s., every morning, from Tarbet Hotel {see Route 19). It is a long stage to post ; no relay nearer than Inveraray, and a hilly road. A narrow isthmus of moderate elevation divides Loch Lomond from the sea — Loch Long. Over this pass the Norwegian ships of Haco were dragged and launched in Loch Lo- mond to ravage its islands and shores. An avenue of oaks lines the way to Arrochar (a 2 m. walk) through this lovely cross glen, opening out upon Loch Long. + * Arrochar (a good In7i, near the Pier. Omnibus to Tarbet on Loch Lomond. Every day in summer a steamer comes hither from Greenock and Glasgow, and remains here 1^ hr. before returning to Greenock.) The situation is exquisite, the mountains, which here rise to more than 3000 ft., overhang the lake so closely as only to leave enough space for the road. The most peculiar of the mountains is Ben Arthur, the Cohhler (2883 ft.), so called from its singular grouping of rocks at the summit, which resemble a cobbler stooping to his work. The adjoining summit is the Cobbler's Wife. From Arrochar the road winds round the head of Loch Long, com- manding a fine view of Ben Lomond ; next it turns into Glencroe. This must not be confused with the more celebrated Pass of Glencoe, near Bal- lachulish. It is a green but treeless valley, with black rocks projecting through the greensward, and ranks high among the wild and desolate Argyll. Ftte. 31. — Glencroe ; Loch Fync ; Imcmray. 219 mountain valleys of tlie South High- lands. The summit of the pass, which is about 4^ m. from Loch Long, reached by a long ascent in zigzags, is marked by a well-known rude stone seat, inscribed " Eest-and- be-Thankful," erected at the time the road was made by the 24th regiment in 1746. "Doubling and doubling with laborious walk, Who that has gained at length the wished- for height, This bi-ief, this simple wayside call can slight, And rest not thankful?" — Wordsworth. The zigzags are continued 1. by a road leading to Lochgoilhead. Ours turns rt., and a little farther on a stream is crossed, running into Loch Restil (1.), from whence the road de- scends through the pastoral valley of Glenkinglass, and reaches Loch Fyne. linear 14 m. Cairndo^v. Here is a tolerable Inn. To the S., over- looking Loch Fjoie, is Ardkinglass House (G. F. W. Callender, Esq.) At Caimdow is a ferry to the opposite bank, by which the pedestrian will save nearly 3 m., but the shortest road to Inveraray turns S., and follows the E. shore of Loch Fyne to + St. Catherine's Ferry, where the Loch, 2 m. wide, may be crossed at any time by row-boat, and 4 times a day by steamer in 10 min. The usual road from Arrochar bends round the head of the loch and crosses the valley of Glen Fyne, which runs up almost to the borders of Perthshire. It is carried down the W. coast of the loch, gaining a charming view of Inveraray, and passing 20 m. the ruined tower of Dun- derawe, a fortress of the M'Naughtens, on the gate of which is the date 1596, and an inscription. The road, however, has to make another circuit by the little bay and glen of Shira, in order to reach 24 m. t Inveraray {Inns : Argyll Arms, good ; George ;) chief town of Argyllshire (Pop. 902), residence of the Duke of Argyll, is finely placed on a bay of the W. shore of Loch Fyne, into which pour 2 small streams, the Ara and Shira. Between these rises the grand wooded conical mil of Duniquoich. On a level green meadow at its base, thick-set with ancestral trees — beech, lime, Scotch fir, and ash of great age and growth, some of the finest to be found in Scotland — stands the Castle of the Duke of Argyll. It is neither an attractive nor imposing edifice, having been erected in the castellated style before that style was understood, about 1750, by Adams, for Duke Archibald. The original town or village was removed to its present site to make way for it. The old castle, to which the exciting scenes in the " Legend of Montrose " belong, stood nearer the sea, and is quite swept away. The actual castle is a spacious quadrangular structure of greenish grey slate or soapstone, which in rainy weather becomes almost black, with round towers at the angles, surmounted by a central tower. The great hall under it is ornamented with ancient arms, among which are the muskets used by the clan at Culloden. The drawing- room and gallery are decorated with tapestry, paintings, and family por- traits. Lord Frederick Campbell, by Gainshorough, John the Red, "Jeanie Deans," Duke of Argyle, etc., deserve notice. The toA^Ti, I m. from the castle, consists of a row of whitewashed houses, and a broad street running from it, in the middle of which the ch. is planted. At the end of this, on the shore, stands a very elegant Cross, resembling those of lona, richly sculptured with foliage, animals, and the worm ornament. It is thought to have come from a neighbouring old cemetery called Kilmallen. On the edge is a commemorative Latin inscription for Duncan, Patrick, and 220 Route 31, — Inveraray to Oban: Cladkli. Sect. III. Maclmore MacGilh^comghan, Near the top a florid Gothic arch is repre- sented, proving the date of this monument not to be earlier than the 13th cent. At the side of the hotel a noble avenue of beech trees leads into woods behind the town, which are the principal features in the scenery, and into the Glen of Essachosan. Few, if any, places in Scotland are more beautifully timbered than the policies of Inveraray Castle. Boswell had great pride in pointing them out to Johnson. A frequent and easy excursion is up the conical hill of Duniquoich, which forms the terminating buttress of the range of hills between Glens Aray and Shira, and commands beautiful views of both valleys, as well as of the town and Loch Fyne. It is also a fine drive from the base of Benbhuie to the Duke's granite quarries of Furnace, overlooking the loch some miles to the south. The lower portion of Loch Fyne, below Inveraray, is considerably tamer than its head, the hills rising to no great height, and exhibiting a rather mo- notonous outline. The artist will find the finest view of the Lake and of Inveraray from the road to Strachur, about a m. S. of St. Catherine's Ferry. Conveyances from Inveraray. — In the season there are daily coaches to Tarbet on Loch Lomond, and to Oban, — Ferry steamer 4 times a day to St. Catherine (for Loch Goil), thence coach to Strachur for Lock Eck and Dunoon) (Rte. 29). There is a Steamer twice a week direct to Glas- gow, but it is chiefly designed to carry cargo, and cannot be recom- mended as a speedy means of transit, particularly during the herring season. The visitor during that season will not repent making acquaint- ance with the Loch Fyiie herrings, which are here of peculiar delicac}^. The arms of the town of Inveraray are a herring in a net. Distances. — Tarbet 24 m., or 20 m. crossing the Ferry to St. Catherine ; Cairndow, 10 ; Ardrishaig, 23 ; Glen- croe, 16 ; Cladich, 11 ; Oban, 40 ; Port Sonachan, 14 ; St. Catherine, 2 ; Strachur, 5 ; Dalmally, 16 m. The road to Oban is carried through the Duke's domain, and up the picturesque vale of Glen Aray, at the mouth of which In- veraray is situated. The woods abound with some of the finest specimens of spruce, larch, and silver fir to be found in Britain, and, from the variety and density of the foliage and the size and age of the trees, form altogether a specimen of forest scenery hardly surpassed in the W. of Scotland. Within the first 3 m. there are 3 vaterfalls on the Aray, the last, called Linnhe-ghlutain, being the finest. Arrived at the summit level of Glen Aray, there is a magnificent view of Loch Awe, with Ben Crua- chan flinging its mighty shadows over it. A series of steep descents leads to, 19 m., Cladich, where there is no Bin (Rte. 28), but 1^ m. lower down the lake is a small wooden pier, with- out shed or shelter, where the steamer may be caught, either in its daily ascent to the head of Loch Awe (for Ardrishaig), or on its return to the Brander for Oban. Nearly 3 m. to the S. is Port Sona- chan (2 Inns, one on each side of loch), a favourite and retired resting-place for artists and fishermen. From either of these places charming water excur- sions can be made to Inish Chonel, Innishail, Eredine, Blairgour, and Innis Errech (Rte. 28). The road, stiU veiy hilly, keeps on the E. side of Loch Awe to Dal- mally. On a conspicuous knoll, rt. of road, which is also a fine point of view, a Grecian Temple (!) is set up as a monument to M'IntjTe, W. Scotland. Route 31. — Kilchum Castle; DalmaUij. 221 a Gaelic poet. On 1. a spacious tract of meadow ground projects into the lake, npon whicli stand the im- posing ruins of Kilchum Castle, consisting of an oblong building, with a square keep, flanked by bartizans. It has been celebrated by Wordsworth in a sonnet — " Abandoned by thy rugged sire, Nor by soft peace adopted, though in place And in dimension such that thou might'st seem But a mere footstool to yon sovereign lord, Huge Cruachan." The oldest part of it was built in 1440 by Sir Duncan Campbell ; the S. and the N. sides were added in 1615 by Sir John Campbell, Knight of Rhodes, ancestor of the Breadalbane family. Sir Duncan Campbell's grandson married the heiress of the Lords of Lorn, and took the title of Lorn with its extensive possessions. The property of his descendant (Earl of Breadalbane) now extends from the sea to Aberfeldy, a distance of something like 100 miles. Many of these glens were in former times the property of the ]\I 'Gregors, until dispossessed by the Campbells. "Glehorchy's proud mountains, Kilchum and her towers, Glenstrae and Gleulyon, no longer are ours." There being no roads to this part of the country in those times, the Camp- bells easily found refuge at home out of reach when in difficulties, their favourite motto being "It's a far cry to Loch Awe. " 16 m. DalmaUy, a pretty village, but out of sight of the lake, in a grove of ti'ees (a fair Inn, fishing on Loch Awe), whence it is possible to ascend Ben Cruachan, though Ben Awe is better. It is charmingly situated at the mouth of Glenorehy, near the ch., and close to the junc- tion of the great road from Tyndrum, and the head of Loch Lomond (Rte. 34). In the ch.-yd. is buried Dun- can M'lntyre, the Highland poet. [1 m. E. of Dalmally the Tyndrum road divides, and a picturesque branch runs 1. up Glenorehy, in which there are waterfalls, and joins the Glencoe road near Loch Tullich, and Inver- uran Inn (Rte. 34)]. Quitting Dalmally, the road crosses the Orchy, passes the kirk, and soon afterwards the mouth of Glen Strae, the second of the large northerly glens that fall into the basin of Loch Awe, once the haunt of the ]\Iac- gregors, who were put down by the Camj^bells. It then skirts the base of Ben Cruachan (3670 ft.), the giant of the line of mountains that bound Glen Strae and Loch Etive. Towards Loch Awe it presents a long front, and its immense bulk woiild lead one to suppose its height far greater than it is. This front is very steep and wooded, and the little streams which trickle down are easily con- verted into foaming cascades. The slates constituting its base "dip" steeply into the bed of the lake, and rise equally steep on the S. side. The islands in the lake exhibit ver- tical strata. " The ascent of Cruachan is tedious (it takes about 6 or 9 hrs.), but not difficult, and from its position no less than its altitude, it presents some of the finest and most extensive moun- tain views in Scotland. Compared to Ben Lomond, it is a giant, and its grasp is no less gigantic. From the bold granite precipices of its sharp and rugged summit, which is literally a point, we look down upon its red and furrowed sides, into the upper part of Loch Etive, and over this magnificent group of mountains, which, extending N. and E., display one of the finest landscapes of moun- tains in the Highlands. Its com- manding position not only enables us to bring under our feet the whole of this group as far as Appin and Glen- coe, and even to Ben Ni but opens a view of the whole of the eastern chain of mountains, reaching from Rannoch as far as Ben Lawers and Ben Lomond, and beyond them 222 Fioute 31.— Ben Cruachan ; Pass of A ice. Sect. III. to lands which only cease to be \'isible because they at length blend with the sky. While it looks down on the long sinuosities of Loch Awe, and over the irregular lands of Lorn, bright with its numerous lakes, it displays all the splendid bay of Oban and the Linnhe Loch, with Jura, Islay, and all the other islands of the coast, commanding besides the hori- zon of the sea, even beyond Tiree and Coll, together with the rude moun- tains of Mull, and the faint blue hills of Eum and Skye." — Alac- culloch. The road from Dalmally to Oban takes many a wide sweep, many a rise and fall, around the base of Ben Cniachan, obtaining lovely views of Loch Awe, and nearly approach- ing Kilchurn Ccistle, rising on its rock pedestal out of the marsh. 22 m. from Inveraray the road enters the grand Pass of Avjc or Brandcr (Rte. 28), where Loch Awe finds its exit through a gap, which marks a great structural break or dis- placement, opened between Ben Cru- achan on the E. and on the W. "a broken escarpment of bed, dipping at a Avholly different angle." To this great displacement of strata is due the hollow forming the bed of Loch Awe. {Sec Duke of Argyll on Lake Basins.) The river Awe, the sole outlet of the lake, rushes down to Loch Etive in a foaming and furious stream. "In front the heights of Cruachan terminate abniptly in the most frightful precipices, which form the whole side of the Pass, and de- scend in one fall into the water which fills its trough. At the N. end of the Pass lies that part of the cliff called Craiganuni ; at its foot the Lake contracts its water to a very narrow space, and at length terminates in 2 rocks called TJie Rocks of Brandcr, which form a straight chaimel somewhat resembl- ing the lock of a canal. Here the river Awe pours out its current at a furious rate, over a bed encumbered with rocks. " — " Chronicles of Canongate. " The Loch Atvc steamer from and to Ford and Port Sonachan lauds pas- sengers or receives them, at a small wooden Pier close to this Bridge. The scene of Awe is described in Scott's "Highland Widow,"— "The tremendous mountain, Ben Cruachan, rushes down in all the majesty of rocks and wilderness to the Lake, leaving only a Pass in which, not- ^\dthstanding its extreme strength, the warlike clan of ]\IacDougall of Lorn was almost destroyed by the sagacious Robert Bnice. That king, the Wellington of his day, had ac- complished, by a forced march, the unexpected manceuvi'e of forcing a body of troops round the other side of the mountain, and thus placed himself in the flank and rear of the men of Lorn." — W. Scott. [From the Bridge of Awe a road of 2 m. branches off rt. to Bonawc, on the shores of Loch Etive. Here is an iron furnace erected in 1753, for the smelting of ore brought from England, by the aid of char- coal fuel. This is almost the only instance where charcoal has not been superseded by coal. Bonawe is the best place from which to ascend Ben Ciaiachan. Old Inverawe House is the seat of J. A. Campbell, Esq. There is a ferry at Bonawe, and a corresponding road on the other side ranning W. to join the Oban and Appin road (Rte. 36).] 30 m. Taynuilt (Inn, tolerable angling quarters ; Mr. Bright stayed here, 1871-1872). On the eminence rt. of the road is a rude Stone Monu- ment erected to Nelson's memory, by the workmen of the Bonawe Iron Furnaces, 1804. The spot commands a glorious view of Ben Ciiiachan, etc. [A road 6| m. runs direct from this over the hills and down upon Loch Awe, opposite Port Sonachan, pass- ing through the district known as W. Scot. Pde. 31.— Z. Etive ; Conml Ferry ; Dunstaffnage. 223 Muckaiu, and running up the Lorn Water. There is a ferry across the lake to Port Sonachan.] Taynuilt is a good place for ex- cursions up Loch Etive, one of the longest of those fiords that indent the W. coast of Scotland — running inland some 15 m. in length in the direction of Glencoe. The mountain ranges on the lower portion of Loch Etive are not high or striking. "Above Bona we it is not like the same loch. For a couple of miles it is not Avide, and it is so darkened by shadows, that it looks less like a strait than a gulf; huge overhang- ing rocks on each side ascending high."—/. JFilson. The loch head, in addition to Ben Cruachan is girdled by Ben Slarive, BiichaiJc Etive (2537 ft.), the bleak ujilands of Dalness Forest, Ben Trilehain, Biddanabian, and others of less height. Loch Etive can be explored only in a boat ; the upper end is accessible by a road from King's House, Glencoe. [On the N. shore, between Bonawe and Connel Ferry, is the ivy-covered Ardchattan Priory (Mrs. Popham), so called from Caton, a follower of St. Columba, founded in the 13th centy. by the M'Dougalls for Benedictine monks of the order of Valliscaulium, a reformed branch of the Cistercians, and destroyed in the l7th by Col- kitto. Robert Brace on one occasion held a Parliament here, one of the last at which the business was con- ducted in the Gaelic language. The eh. is of E. English date, and consists of a simple nave, without piers. In the interior are the tombs of Duncan and Dugald, fonner priors, with some curious sculptured figures, including one of Death, with a toad beneath the knees.] The road to Oban rans along the shore of Loch Etive to 37 m. Connel Ferry (Ptte. 36), situated at the mouth or sea-opening of Loch Etive, which is not only contracted by the approximation of the opposite shores, but is also ob- structed by a reef of rocks stretching two-thirds across, which, at spring tides, during ebb, presents the phe- nomenon of a Sea Cataract, pouring over the obstructive wall of rock, 5 or 6 ft. high, with a tremendous roar. " The greatest depth of the loch above these falls is 420 ft. At the falls themselves there is a depth of only 6 ft. at low water, Avhile out- side this barrier the soundings reach, at a distance of 2 m., 168 ft. Loch Etive is thus a characteristic rock- basin, and an elevation of the land to the extent of only 20 ft. would isolate the loch from the sea, and turn it into a long, winding, deep freshwater lake. ^^—Geikie. Not far from Connel Ferry (on rt. of road), and commanding the entry into the loch, is the ruined castle of Dunstaffnage, the seat of govern- ment amongst the Scots from about 500 A.D., till by their conquest of the Picts in 843, they found it ne- cessary to have a capital in a more central situation. The Coronation stone, now in AVestminster Abbey, was used here before it was carried to Scone. The belief that this stone, the ' ' Lia Fail, " carried sovereignty • with it was at one time verj^ strong, both in England and Scotland. The castle afterwards became the stronghold of the I^ords of Lorn, and was taken by Robert Bruce soon after his victory in the pass of Awe. It stands upon a natural pedestal of puddingstone, or conglomerate rock, and the entrance is reached by a naiTow staircase. The building is said to belong to the 13th centy., but, as it now stands, exhibits slight evidence of construction older than the 15th ; it is of coarse masonry. It is an irregular 4-sided structure, with a round tower at 3 of the angles, the remaining angle being also rounded. The circumference of the whole is about 400 ft., and the walls are in some places QQ ft. high and 10 224 Boute 31. — Dunstaffnage ; Oban. Sect. III. ft. in thickness. On the castle wall are some of the brass guns which were fished up from one of the ships of the Spanish Armada sunk off Mull. The Castle is now the pro- perty of the Crown ; a Royal castle. The magnificent I'ieic from it of B. Cruachan and other hills gives an interest to the spot not possessed by the ruins. There is an old chapel close by, which seems to date about a century later than the castle. It is the burial-place of Campbell of Dunstaffnage. On the opposite side of Loch Etive is a grand line of cliffs, called Cragan High, "The King's Rock," formed of a singularly hard and mixed con- glomerate. The tourist may also visit the ancient fort of Dun j\Iac- sniochan (Rte 36)]. Descending a steep hill, passing rt. Dunstaffnage and Dunolly, the road enters Oban, {Inns: Great Western H., large house facing the bay, good rooms, but expensive ; Craig- Ard Inn and boarding-house on a height above sea ; Alexandra House, facing sea ; Caledonian, comfortable, and less expensive, but near port and pier ; King's Arms. Oban (2413 inhab.) is a general resting-place and starting-point for travellers by sea and laud — a focus for conveyances. It has been familiarly styled "the Charing Cross of the Highlands." It is also an incipient watering-place. It consists chiefly of inns and lodg- ings, with some pretty villas on its outskirts. It is very pleasantly situated on a land-locked bay, shel- tered in front by the island Kerrera, beyond which are seen the moun- tains of Mull. Obe Ann, in Gaelic, means Little Bay. The tourist who arrives at Oban by the road has an advantage over those coming by the boat, inasmuch as the latter do not get to Oban until the evening, and then there is apt to be a great rush to the Hotels for beds. If not arriv- iu'^ till the evening, it is almost necessary, at the height of the season, to write or telegraph for rooms. The visitor should walk to the headland, on the south, from whence, particularly at sunset, he will have a splendid view of the town and crescent-like bay, with Ben Cruachan rising grandly in the E., while in the W. Loch Linnhe, Kerrera and Lismore Islands, and the noble mountains of Mull, form a magnifi- cent background. Alt-na- Craig, the cottage residence of Prof. Blackie, is in one of the best situations. Oban abounds in all kinds of churches, and there is a very neat Gothic Episcopal Chapel, near to the Great Western Hotel. Excursions. — A short mile to the N., overlooking the sea, is Dunolly Castle, a square keep, very limited in space, from the great thickness of the walls. A little of the exterior rampart is left, also of the dungeon. The ruins stand on a precipice, and are approached by a steep ascent from the land side, originally intersected by a moat. This Avas also a strong- hold of the Lords of Lorn. It is now the property of Admiral Sir John M'Dougall, the lineal representative of the Lords of Lorn, and the chief of the clan ]\l 'Dougall, whose modern house is just below the castle. The " Brooch of Lorn," torn from Robert Bruce in the battle of Dalrigh, is here preserved. Admission through the gi-ounds tmce a week, but the ruins may be reached in a boat. About 5 m. distant on the shore stands the Clach-a' Koin, an upright stone with a hole in it, to which it is said Fingal used to tie his dog Bran. Excursions to Dunstaffnage Castle (distance 3 m.), described above, commanding a magnificent view : — to Connel Ferry on the N., remark- able for its sea cataract ; — to the beautiful scenery of Lochs Nell and Feochau {i m.) on the S. (Rte. 28). ^S' i-.E ~& "J ^ 4 .M J #: .£- J \ .^ '©=-!»■ ^ '^^^ if r^\ -^;^%>l fe .Li- i^- 1\%> -\^ ^L,.A I W. Scotland. Route 34. — Loch Lomond to Fort-William. 225 Near Loch ISTell is the Serpent Cairn, an old stone monument of heaped-up boulders, supposed by some to be an old moraine — a work of nature, and not of man. Steamer every morning to Crinan and Ardrishaig for Glasgow ; every morning and evening to Fort-Wil- liam and Bannavie, for the Cale- donian Canal and Inverness, touching at Ballachulish for Glencoe. Steamers every morning in summer to StafFa, lona, and round the island of Mull, returning the same evening (Kte. 35). Steamer twice a week to Skye (Portree), calling at stated times at Loch Aline, Salen, Tobermory, Ari- saig, Balmacarra, Kyle Akin, Broad- ford, Portree, Gareloch, Loch Inver, Ullapool, and Stornoway. From Oban to Skye (Portree, Etes. 56, 57) takes 15 hrs., including halts. For these trips the traveller should consult the local time - tables, or ^Messrs. Hutcheson's agent on the Pier ; but as goods are taken with passengers, punctuality in these boats must not be depended upon. Coaches daily to Ardrishaig, by which the tourist can visit Lochs Nell and Feochan, and the Pass of Melfort (Rte. 27) ; daily to Loch Lomond, through Taynuilt, Dal- mally, Tyndrum, Inverarnan ; daily to Inveraray, by Connel Ferry, Tay- nuilt, Pass of Awe, and Dalmally {see above). By taking the Melfort coach the tourist can meet another near Ford, then sail down Loch Awe, and re- turn to Oban in the evening by the Inveraray coach — a very good day's work (Rte. 28). Distances. — Lochs Nell and Feo- chan, 4 m. ; Kilmelfort, 15 ; Auch- nacraig (Mull), 7 ; Dunstaffnage, 3 ; Dunolly, 1 ; Taynuilt, 11 ; Pass of Awe, 15 ; Kilchurn Castle, 23 ; Dal- mally, 24 ; Cladich, 30 ; Inveraray, 40 ; Tarbet, on Loch Lomond, 64 ; Ai^pin, 12. EOUTE 34. Loch Lomond to Fort-'William, by Tyndrum, Glencoe, and Bal- lachulish. A daily coach travels this road in the season, starting from Ardlui Pier, at the head of Loch Lomond (described Rte. 19), on the arrival of the steamer. It takes 10 hrs. to perform the distance, 48 m. 1 m. Inverarnan Hotel, finely situated at the embouchure of Glcn- falloch, a very narrow glen, with a small stream at the bottom, from the sides of which the fir-clad hills rise at once, but with a gradual inclina- tion. The annual rainfall at Ardlui, head of Loch Lomond, averages 115 inches. After passing Glenfalloch House a good retrospective view is obtained from the head of the glen. At 7J m. Crianlarich (Inn, im- proved), is a Stat, on the rly. from Callander to Killin and Tyndrum, a junction of 4 roads. [The railroad to Killin Stat, runs alongside of (l^ m.) Loch Lochart, a small but i)icturesque lake at the foot of Ben More, which rises to the height of 3903 ft., its regularly sloped sides well covered with grass to the top. From the west the ascent is steep, but not difficult. This glen is the scene of Hogg's song of the "Spectre of the Glen, " Immediately at the back of Ben More rises the rival peak of Stobin- nain, 3813 ft. 9 m. Lulh Stat. Inn. Nearly oppo- site is xichlyne, a seat of the Earl of Breadalbane. Near Lix turnpike is the] Hi m. KlUin Stat., of the Kail- way from T}Tidrum — but it is 4 m. from Killin. Omnibus thither (Rte. 44.) The railroad from Crianlarich to Tyndrum, passing rt. Inverhagemy 22G Route 34. — Loch Lomond to Fort-William. Sect. III. House, readies (11 m.) the village of St. Fillans (not to be confounded Mith the village of the same name on Loch Earn), where are the remains of a priory, and "the Holy Pool," iu which epileptics and lunatics were foi-merly ducked and left bound all night in the open air. " Saint Fillan's blessed well, Whose spring can frenzied dreams dispel, And the crazed brain restore." — Scott. If found loosened in the morning they were considered curable. This mode of treatment is men- tioned by Pennant as being practised as late as 1790. He adds that the patients were generally found in the morning relieved of all their troubles— by death. 12 m. cross the river Dochart, which, under the name of the Ettrick "Water, rises in the slopes of Ben Lui, 3651 ft., one of the mountains bor- dering Glenorchy on the E. ^ m. to the 1. is Dal-Righ or the King's Field, celebrated for Eobert Bruce' s escape (1306). After being defeated at Methven by Lord Pembroke, he Avas attacked here by the Lord of Lorn, grandson to the Red Comyn, whom Bruce murdered at Dumfries, one of whose followers seized his mantle, and though mortally wound- ed, held .it so fast that Bruce was compelled to abandon it. The buckle which fastened it remained a trophy at Dun oily. Bruce skilfully withdrew his mailed warriors, whose armour baffled the assault of the wild highlanders. 13| m. Tyndrum Stat, a large railway Inn. Coach to King's House, Glencoe, and Ballachulish (Rte. 47). Coach to Dalmally (13 m.), Loch Aavc, Inveraray, and Oban. In the neighbourhood are some lead-mines belonging to the Earl of Breadalbane. The annual rainfall here averages 104 inches. A little beyond Tyn- drum are Benbuy, Ben Vurie, and Ben Vuridh, S. W. spurs of the Glen- lyon range. 17i m. is the village of Auch, to the rt. of which is the pass to Glen Lyon and Ta}Tnouth for pedestrians. The distance would be about 7 m. to Loch Lyon (Rte. 46). At the N. corner of the pass is Ben Doa, a fine bare peak. 19| m. at Orchy Bridge, the head of Glenorchj^ is reached [up which runs a branch road from Dalmally, 11m.] On rt. is a farm -road leading to the scanty ruins of Atichallader Casth, which stands at the foot of Lnch Tullich, an interesting piece of water much improved by the young woods which have been planted around it. Ardvrcchnish, Lord Breadalbane's shooting-lodge on the opposite side, with its young planta- tions, contrasts agreeably with the general barrenness about Tyndrum. 22^ m. Invcroran Inn (angling quarters), succeeded by a very dreary road, having the moor of Rannoch on the rt. and the Blackmount deer forest on the 1. This is one of the finest deer forests in Scotland, and is rented by Lord Dudley from Lord Breadalbane for £5000 a year. This part of the journey is tedious, the road gradually ascending until it arrives at a level of about 1500 ft. above the sea. Then passing on rt. a long winding piece of water, named Loch Lydoch, it begins to descend, having in view Glen Etive and Glen- coe. 32^ m. King's House Inn, a humble isolated hostelry, 5 m. from the head of Glencoe, a dreary spot. [From this point, a track, fit only for hardy pedestrians, leads across the Moor of Rannoch to Loch Rannoch, so to Taymouth — distance about 45 m. (Rte. 47).] 34i m. at AUnafedh, a few cot- tages by the roadside, a path turns ott'to Fort-William, by Gen. Wade's road, generally known as the Devil's Staircase. 20 ra. stiff walking. The tourist now enters Glencoe. The Valley of Glencoe W. Scotland. Route 34. — Glencoe. 227 runs about E. and W., and is nearly of equal width at either extremity. The grandest scenery is on the E., next to King's House, therefore it is best to approach it from the W. or sea-side. The width of the valley allows the eye to take in the full height and grandeur of the flanking mountains. From a wide open country, at King's House, composed of moor and swamp, the road gradu- ally sweeps into a towering pass, wdiich the dark perpendicular rocks close in on both sides, their height and gloom intensified by the thick veil of mist that generally rests be- tween them. The course from the King's House is a regular descent, and the horses galloping the whole way, whisk the coach round the sharp corners and arrive at the end of the stage before the traveller has had time to complain of monotony. [1. a road turns otf S. to the head of Loch Etive, where Edw. Grieve, Esq. M.P., has built a house in the midst of majestic scenery.] The entrance to Glencoe is be- tween the Devil's Staircase and Buachail Etive, 2537 ft., a frowning mass of rock on the 1. On rt. of the glen is an almost unbroken wall of precipice ; on 1. a number of sepa- rate momitains rearing themselves from distinct bases, or breaking into peaks as they rise. They are chiefly of porphyry, and owe to that rock their picturesque character. About the middle of the glen is the tarn or small lake of Treachtan, through which flows the Cona, of which Ossian sang, and on whose banks Ossian was born. It is hard to say under which aspect Glencoe is finest —Avhether with the shifting lights of cloud and sunshine, or when the storm is breaking over its pre- cipitous black jagged rocks. In the latter case the innumerable torrents that tumble down the rifted walls form not the least remarkable feature of the scene. The following description by Lord Macaulay will be read with interest on the spot, allowing for certain exaggerations — e.g., the green sides of the glen are now covered with sheep, and it includes several cot- tages and a few trees. The pre- vailing sound is that of the rush of waters. "In the Gaelic tongue Glencoe signifies the Glen of Weeping — and, in truth, that pass is the most dreary and melancholy of all the Scottish passes — the very Valley of the Shadow of Death. Mists and storms brood over it through the greater part of the finest summer, — and even on those rare days when the sun is bright, and Avhen there is no cloud in the sky, the impression made by the landscape is sad and awful. The road lies along a stream which arises from the most sullen and gloomy of mountain pools. Huge precipices of naked stone frown on both sides. Even in July the streaks of snow may often be discerned in the rifts near the summits. All down the sides of the crags heaps of ruins mark the headlong paths of the torrents. Mile after mile the traveller looks in vain for the smoke of one hut (?), or for one human form wu-apped in a plaid, and listens in vain for the bark of a shepherd's dog, or the bleat of a lamb (?). Mile after mile the only sound that indicates life is the faint cry of a bird of i^rey from some storm- beaten pinnacle of rock. The pro- gress of civilisation, which has turned so many wastes into fields yellow with harvest, or gay with apple-blossoms, has only made Glen- C9e more desolate." — Macaulay^ s "History of England." In 1691, William III., having tried several means of pacifying the ' Highlanders, issued a proclamation : that whatever clan did not take the I oath of allegiance to him by the 31st j of December should be treated as an enemy. The chiefs declared they 1 would not ; but, seeing warlike pre- 228 Fioute 34. — Glencoe. Sect. III. parations being made by the Govern- ment, they one after another sub- mitted. The last day of the year arrived. All except Macdonald of Glencoe (known as M'lan) had sworn, he having been prevented by accident rather than by design from tendering- his submission within the limited time ; and on that day he re- paired to Fort-William and ottered to take the oath. But Colonel Hill, the governor of the fort, was not a magistrate com- petent to receive the oath, and so Macdonald had to make his way to Sir Colin Campbell, Sheritt' of Argyll, who lived at Inveraray, live days' journey. He swore allegiance, and intelligence to that eff'ect was sent to the Ministers in London, but suppressed by tiie Master of Stair, Secretaiy of State ; and AVilliam was thereupon induced to sign an order for the extirpation of the clan, principally at the instigation of the Earl of Breadalbane, whose lands the Glencoe men had plundered. On the 1st of February 1692, Camp- bell of Glenlj^on, a connection of Macdonald's, arrived in Glencoe with 128 soldiers, giving assurances of the | most friendly intentions. During 1 2 days the soldiers lived familiarly with the people of the glen, and the very evening before the massacre was spent by the officers at cards in Macdonald's house. On the 13th Campbell began at five o'clock in the morning to execute his orders. His host and nine others were drag- ged out of their beds and murdered. Lieutenant Lindsay knocked at the door of the old chief, and asked for admission in friendly language. Macdonald got up to receive them, and with two servants was shot dead ; his wife being so ill treated that she died the next day. The huts were burned and the cattle driven off. Out of 200 inhabitants, at least GO were slain, but many more perished from cold and privation, and it was only the roughness of the weather which impeded the march of Colonel Ham- ilton, and j)revented his occupying the passes in time that saved the lives of the rest. 41 m. is the small public-house of Clachie, where milk and whisky and oatcakes may be had. The exit from the glen is by a long valley, in which trees and cultiva- tion begin to appear, opening on to the shores of Loch Leven, with very beautiful and pleasant landscapes. On a wooded eminence in front stands Invercoe, the modern mansion of A. Burns ]\Iacdonald, Esq. A portion of the old house of Macdon- ald, the head of the clan, now a ruin, may be seen above the trees. Here the officers of the hostile regi- ment were quartered, and here the massacre began. Above rises the jiicturesque and conspicuous conical mountain, the Pwp of Glencoe, and on the opposite side of the loch is Calart, the seat of Sir Duncan Cameron. The Pap of Glencoe is a projecting bare peak with steep rifted gullies, very dangerous to ascend. From extreme desolation and soli- tude the road suddenly breaks into life and bustle at the slate-quarries at Ballachulish, where a large, dirty, straggling village has gi'own up to supply the wants of the workmen. From thence the road winds by the water's edge, affording exquisite re- trospective views of the Loch and the entrance to Glencoe, considerably in- jured by the black scar of the slate quarries opened in the mountain sides. Fine in form rise the moun- tains at the head of Loch Leven, and in front the hills of the opposite coast of ]\Iorven. Passing a pretty Episcopal ch. and parsonage, we arrive at 48 m. the Ballachulish Hotel, on the S. shore of the grand Sea Fiord, Loch Leven, here crossed by a ferr}'', on the way to Fort-^Yilliam (14 m.) and Ben ISTevis. On the opposite (N.) 'W. Scotland. Route 35. — Ohan to Staffa : Mull. 229 side of the ferry is the Loch Leren Hotel, also good, and quieter. The coaches start from the Bal- lachiilish Hotel to Loch Lomond or Inveraray — through Glencoe — to Fort-William, from the other side of the Ferry. A coach starts for Glencoe on the arrival of the early steamer from Oban or Inveraray, returning after \ hr. halt in the glen : the steamer meanwhile waiting to take on the passengers. It is a drive of about 8 m. from the hotel to that part of Glencoe which displays the finest scenery. The steam voyage from Ballachulish to Oban and Fort- William is described in Ete. 36. Steamers to Oban or Fort- William and Bannavie daily. [A very beautiful excursion may be made along the N. side of Loch Leven, an arm of the sea, extending from Loch Linnhe some 12 m. in- land. This road commands magnifi- cent ^dews of the Pass of Glencoe, and the entrance to the glen. Besides the ferry between the two hotels, there is one called the Dog's Ferry, considerably higher up, and between them is an island containing burial- places — one for the inhabitants of Glencoe, and the other for those of Lochaber. In the former repose the bones of M'lau, the laird who was shot in the massacre of Glencoe. At the head of the loch, where the road from the Devil's Staircase to Fort- William is joined, is the fall of the Serpent Rii^er, which runs through a series of natural arches, almost a subterranean passage, and the fall of Kinlochmore, a very beautiful cata- ract of 30 ft., though the volume of the stream is by no means large. A track keeps on from this point by the side of the Blackwater Lochs, and eventually joins the road between Loch Laggan and Loch Treig (Ete. 38).] Crossing the ferry from Balla- chulish another coach awaits the passenger. 50^ m., at Onich village (slate- quarries), the road leaves Loch Linnhe, and for the rem.ainder of the distance skirts the E. bank of Loch Eil. Upon the opposite side is Ardgour, pleasantly surrounded by woods and meadows. 59i m. Maryhurgh, a suburb of Fort- William, so named in honour of the queen of William III. 60i m. Fort- William {Inn: Caledonian— tolerable ; not so expen- sive as Bannavie). It is a drive of 3 m. to the steamer on the Caledonian Canal. The sea steamer, after touch- ing at Fort - William, proceeds to the entrance of the canal (Ete. 36). EOUTE 35. Oban to Staffa and lona— a Cruise round the Island of MvQl. Daily in summer a steamer makes this most interesting excursion ; tourists, especially ladies, had better not attempt the trip when the weather is at all bad — for with a rough sea it is impossible to land at Staffa, and they are sure to get a good tossing oft' the Mull coast. In fine weather nothing can be more delightful. The fare is £1, including the land- ing expenses at Staff"a and lona. The time employed is about 12 hrs., including 1 hr.'s stay at Staffa and the same at lona. Dinner and refresh- ments on board at moderate rates. The steamer in this excursion makes the circuit of the Isle of Mull, and it de- pends on the state of the tide and mnd whether it steers W. from Oban through the sound of Mull, or S. through the Firth of Lorn. The first-named route crosses the mouth of the Linnhe Loch. The points 230 Route do.—Ohan to Staffa : Mull Sect. III. to be noticed are rt. Dunolly Castle, ■while farther on and more inland is Dunstaffnage (Rte. 31V On 1. is the N. end of KeiTera Island. Lying in the very centime of Loch Linnhe is rt. the Island of Lismore, "the great garden," a long, low mass of lime- stone, about 10 m. long by 2 m. broad, with a lighthouse at the lower extremity (Rte. 36). The steamer next passes the Lady's Eock, visible only at low water. One of the Macleans of Duart, about 1530, having married a sister of the Earl of Argyll, and wishing to be rid of her, placed her upon the Lady's Rock, that she might be drowned by the rising tide. She was found and rescued by some of her own people, and Maclean was eventually assassinated by her brother. This story is the subject of Joanna Baillie's " Family Legend," and Campbell's poem of " Glenara." On the mainland of Mull (1.) are the tolerably preserved ruins of Duart Castle, formerly the pro- perty of the Macleans, standing on the brink of a high cliff, at the ex- tremity of a long and elevated penin- sula. The main building is a large and nearly square tower, with walls 12 ft. thick. The vessel now enters the "melancholy" Sound of Mull, a sea channel, varying in breadth from 1 to 3 m., and ha-v'ing on rt. the high grounds and cliffs of the main- land of Morven, and on 1. the still more picturesque mountains of Mull. [The Island of Mull, " a mass of hill," round which the tourist is about to coast, is about 30 m. long, while its greatest breadth is 20 m. The indentations of the bays and creeks however, are so deep and irregular, especially on the W., that while the coast-line measures some 300 m., it it is only 3 m. from sea to sea — between the Sound at Salen, and the Atlantic at Loch-na-Keal, a long and broad fiord that nearly cuts the island in two. To the S. of it is Loch Screidan, beyond which projects a long granitic promontory called the Ross of Mull. Though the island contains some lofty mountains, it cannot be said, as a whole, to be picturesque, consisting, with the ex- ception of occasional patches of arable land, of a vast moor, devoted to the pasturage of cattle and horses. The cliff scenery on the S. is cer- tainly grand, and contains several caves ; and considering that very fair accommodation is to be got, and the roads, few as they are, are good, it is surprising that Mull is not visited oftener than it is. Salcn is the best place to stop at, both from its central position and its comfortable quarters. To the S. of Salen is the great range of mountains that fill up the interior, and rank in height and abruptness of outline with the principal ranges in the "W. of the mainland. Ben More rises to 3172 ft. ; Benbuy to 2352 ; and Dun-da-Gu to 2505. The result of the proximity of such high peaks to the moisture-laden breezes of the Atlantic is, that Mull is the rainiest place in Scotland, exceeding in this characteristic both Rum and Skye. ^052rcZZ described Mull as " a hilly country diversified with heath and grass, and many rivulets." Dr. Johnson said it was a dreary country, much worse than Skye, ' ' Oh, sir ! a most dolorous country." — Croker, Boswell. But indeed the voyage we are now describing will enable the traveller to pronounce the coast scenery and cliffs of Mull exceedingly grand. Both to the artist and geologist the arched rocks of Carsaig on the S. coast, and the display of basaltic columnar cliffs are full of interest ; while the Duke of Argyll's discovery of Tertiary leaf-beds in volcanic ashes on the promontoiy of Ai-dtim Head, between Loch Screidan and Loch Laigh, causes that spot to be visited by men of science. From Salen an excursion may be made to the ba.salt W. Scotland. Route 35. — Ohan to Staffa — Salen. 231 cliffs of the Island Ulva, from which a boat may be hired to Statfa. Some of the localities in Mull are very interesting to the geologist. Nine-tenths of the island consist of trap rocks of the tertiary age, and those peculiar terraces characteristic of these igneous overflows. Along the E. and S. coasts in the neigh- bourhood of Loch Buy is a thin strip of oolite — and again on the W. coast of Gribun, facing Staffa. The pro- montory of the Ross, as far as Bunessan, consists of granite, the red colouring of which imparts a pic- turesque warmth to the rocks. At Arcltun, to the N. of Bunessan, are some basaltic pillars, together with tertiary beds, containing leaf impres- sions associated with volcanic ash. These interesting fossils consist of Rhamnites, Filicites Hebridicus, Equisitites Campbelli, Alnites, etc., and were described by the late Professor Forbes, in the "Geological Journal."] In traversing the Sound of Mull the steamer passes on 1. a cascade, the spray from which is often taken at a distance for smoke, the water being hidden by a projection till the steamer is abreast of it. Rt. is Ardtornish Castle, in a wild and picturesque situation, on a chain of rocks overhanging the sea at the mouth of Loch Aline, Avhich stretches up into the district of Morven, It was during the latter part of the 14th and during the loth centy., the head- quarters of the " Lords of the Isles." The ruins are not large : the square keep, with its thick Avails, and the broken rampart of the courtyard, give one but a faint notion of the grandeur of the " Ardtornish Halls " of Sir Walter Scott :— " Ardtornish on her frowning steep, 'Twixt cloud and ocean hung, Glanced with a thousand lights of glee. And landward far and far to sea Her festal radiance flung." But the introduction of Ardtornish at the date of the poem is an ana- chronism, for the residence of the Lords of the Isles at that time was Islay, the castle of Ardtornish being built about 1340. The Lord of the Isles, in the time of Robert Bruce, was in reality Angus Og, but his name has been converted by Scott into the more euphonious title of Ronald. Here it was that the treaty was signed between Edward IV. and the Lord of the Isles, in which the latter consented to become Edward's vassal, and receive an annual pension in return for assistance to be ren- dered to the King and the banished Earl of Douglas in their designs upon Scotland. {SceRymer's "Foedera.") Just beyond it is the narrow en- trance to Loch A line, in many places prettily fringed with copsewood. "Green Loch Aline's woodland shore." At the head of the Loch is the ruin of another old castle, called Kinloch Aline, and in the village close by is one of the crosses brouglit from lona. Loch Aline House is the residence of — Sinclair, Esq. Passing rt. Fuenary House, the steamer crosses over to Salen, where there is a comfortable Inn, a good place from whence to make excursions either to Loch-na- Keal or to the summit of Ben More. The latter is easily reached by the road from Salen to Loch Screidan, which passes close to the base of Ben More. In the vicinity of Salen (1.) is Aros House (Captain F. Camp- bell), and Aros Castle, at one time a strong- hold of the Lords of the Isles, on a high rocky peninsula at the mouth of a stream. It was probably more a fortress than a habitation, being 90 ft. long, with walls 40 ft. high. On rt. are vestiges of Killundin Castle, on the coast of Morven, a wild, desolate region, the picturesque beauties of which are principally con- fined to the coast. As the vessel proceeds through the sound the 232 Route 35. — Tohermory ; Mingary. Sect. III. rugged and broken outlines of Ben Hiant, near Ardnamurchan, form a magnificent feature. 1. t Tohermory {Inns : Mull H. ; Mish-nish). The name of this place implies, " St. Mary's Well ; " it was built in 1788 by the Society for the Encouragement of British Fisheries. It is the largest village or the only town in Mull (1500 Inhab.), and is built on the shore of a well-shel- tered bay, having in front the small island Calve. On the N. horn or promontory of the bay stands a lighthouse. The chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, has entirely dis- appeared. The town faces the S.E., and, with high hills at its back, has a somewhat gloomy appearance, al- though on a fine summer day the thick Avoods are deliciously shady. There is a pretty waterfall in the stream at the back of the town, and also several cascades in the woods around, Avhich after rainy weather fall directly over the cliffs into the bay with a peculiarly beau- tiful appearance. To the S. of the town is Drumfin, the seat of Alex. Allan, Esq. of Aros, on the banks of a picturesque lake. Good fishing in the Lakes Mish- nish, with leave from the proprietor. Passing on rt. the mansion and Eom. Cath. chapel of Drimnin (Lady Gordon), the steamer crosses the mouth of Loch Sunart rt., a long and beautiful fiord running into the Alor- ven district for some 20 m., nearly "VV. and E., separating it from Ard- namurchan (Rte. 36). The entrance on the N. is guarded by Ben Hiant (1721 ft.). On rt., not far from Ard- namurchan Point, Mingary Castle, "Sternly placed, O'erawes the -n-oodland and the waste." The ruins, which are considerable, stand upon a headland nearly sur- rounded by water, and are further protected by a high wall built on the extreme edge of the cliff's. The length of the principal building is 50 ft. ; it is 3 storeys high, but, with the exception of a few small loop- holes, there is no external opening. The castle belonged to the M'lans, a younger branch of the Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles ; and in 1493 James IV. held his court here to re- ceive the submission of the insular chieftains. Mingary and Loch Aline castles were taken in 1644 by Alaster Macdonald (better known as Col- kitto), who commanded the Irish auxiliaries sent over by the Earl of Antrim to assist Montrose. It was besieged by the Marquis of Argyle, but relieved. The steamer now gains the At- lantic, the eff"ects of whose rolling SAvell, except on a calm day, are sure to be experienced here. To the N. are the lighthouse and point of Ard- namurchan, beyond which the preci- pitous Scuir of Eigg is seen, to- gether Avith the lofty peaks of Rum ; and if the day is clear the mag- nificent outline of the Coolin Hills in Skye (Rte. 58). In the distance, straight in front, are the islands of Tiree and Coll, both composed of Laurentian gneiss. Tiree (Pop. 6000) yields a beautiful pink marble spotted with gi'een. In very clear weather may also be seen the S'kerryvore light- house, a tower of granite 150 ft. high, built on a rock barely rising out of the sea at low water, designed by Alan Stevenson. To the S. on 1. in ]\Iull is Cailiach Point, near which the poet Campbell lived as a private tutor, and where he composed "The Exile of Erin" and much of " The Pleasures of Hope. " The S. extremity of the bay, which is indented by the inlet of Calgary, is called Treshnish Point. The vessel passes on rt. the Treshnish Islands — a picturesque group of bas- altic trap rocks rising into terraces about 300 ft. in height, one of which, from its shape, is known as "The Dutchman's Cap ;" another is pierced ^y. Scotland. Bonte 35. — Ulva ; Staffa; FingaVs Cave. 233 through by a hole or arch. The 2 largest are called Fladda and LuBga, and are used for pasturing the cattle belonging to the farm of Treshnish in Coll. Fortifications exist on the island Cairnlnirg, which was a strong- hold of the Noi-^^egian kings, on the border of the Sudreys (or S. Islands, Sodor), steeply rocky and accessible only at one point. It is mentioned in the Sagas under the name Bjorn- arborg. Some ascribe the existing parts to the Macleans, who defended Cairnburg against Cromwell. In a bay which deeply indents the W. coast of Mull, lies the large Island of " Ulva dark," whose shores are lofty cliffs of black basaltic columns, and contrast with the small gi'een islet of Inch Kenneth, where Dr. Johnson and Boswell were so hospitably received by Sir Alan Mac- lean, A modern mansion has been built by Col. Macdonald, but the ruins of the huts in which these travellers were lodged remain. John- son commemorated Inch Kenneth in a Latin Ode. There are ruins of a very old church 60 ft. long, on the Island, and belonged to the monks of lona. Ulva lies at the mouth of Loch Gyle or Keal ; the scene of T. Campbell's Poem of " Lord Ullin's Daughter." " Now who be ye would cross Locli Gyle,^ This dark and stormy water ? Oh, I'm the chief of Ulva's Isle, Aud this Lord Ullin's daughter." Leaving behind " Ulva dark and Colonsay," which adjoin the mainland pretty closely, the steamer soon approaches Staffa (Stafs-ey, the island of staves or columns) (J. IST. Forman, Esq.), a small uncultivated island, little more than 1^ mile round, with a perpendicular face towards the W., and a more gradual slope to the sea on the E. It consists of 3 distinct strata of trap — the lower of {Scotland.'] conglomerate, or trap-tuff; the middle of columnar basalt, in which the caves have been formed by the action of the sea and the weather working out portions of the pillars ; and an upper bed of confused basalt and fragments of pillars. The island is penetrated by several caverns, but the most famous of these, and usually the only one visited, is Fixgal's Cave. When the weather permits, visitors are landed from the steamers in boats, and walking over the pavement, formed by the tops of broken pillars, can penetrate the cave and climb the slippery platforms by means of stairs, ladders, and ropes, which have been erected. Still better, when the sea is calm the tourist can pro- ceed to the end of the cave in a row-boat, peer down into the deep clear water below, alive with medu- soe, and polyps, and watch the shimmer of the sunshine reflected from the waves upon the high roof. In storms there is risk of boats being dashed by the surf against the sharp edges of the rocks. The length of FingaVs Cave is 227 ft., and the height from the water at mean tide, 66 ft., the depth of the sea within being about the same. The sides of the aperture are vertical, and nearly parallel. The whole of the sides, ground, and roof, is com- posed of black pentangular or hexa- gon pillars, not consisting of one solid mass from top to bottom, but divided transversely by joints at nearly unifonn distances of 2 ft. Sir Walter Scott thus describes it : — " There all unknown its columns rose, Where dark and undisturbed repose The cormorant had found, And the shy seal had quiet home, And weltered in that wondrous dome ; Where, as to shame the temples decked By skill of earthly architect. Nature herself, it seemed, would raise A Minster to her Maker's praise ! Not for a meaner use ascend Her columns, or her arches bend ; Nor of a theme less solemn tells That mighty surge that ebbs and swells, l2 234 Route 35. — Staffa : Fingal's Cave. Sect. III. And still, between each awful pause, From the high vault an answer draws. In varied tone, prolonged and high, That mocks the organ's melody. Nor doth its entrance point in vain To old lona's holy fane, That Nature's voice might seem to say, ' Well hast thou done, frail child of clay ! Thy humble powers that stately shrine Task'd hard and high, but witness mine ! Which, when the ruins of thy pile Cumber the desolated isle. Firm and immutable shall stand, 'Gainst Mind and waves, and spoiler's hand.' " Sir Eobert Peel made it his boast that he "had seen the temple not made with hands, had felt the ma- jestic swell of the ocean — the pulsa- tion of the great Atlantic — beating in its inmost sanctuary, and swelling a note of praise nobler far than any that ever peeled from human organ." In order to comprehend the/orma- tion of this island, it must be remem- bered that the N.W. coast of Scotland was once the scene of violent volcanic action, and that the subterranean disturbances found vent along a line from Skye to Ireland, the eliects of which may be traced through Staffa, ]\Iull, I slay, Eathlin, and the Giant's Causeway. By this means a great quantity of liquid basalt was ejected to the surface, which, when begin ning to cool, formed a number of nuclei, equidistant from each other, which gradually absorbed the inter- vening mass into as many equal spheres. The pressure of the spheres one upon the other caused them to assume a prismatic shape, and if we could take oti' the top of the island, we should find that the pillars in the centre are regular hexagons, while those on the outside are more inclined to form irregularly-sided pentagons. StafFa was unknown to the world before an accidental visit paid to it in 1772 by Sir Joseph Eankes, who, on his way to Iceland, had been driven into the Sound of Mull, and heard by chance from some inhabit- ants of the district of this real won- der of the world. The earliest ac- count of it is to be found in Pennant's tour in Scotland, 1774. From the landing-place a staircase has been formed to the top of the island, by which glimpses of the cliffs and caves on the other side can be obtained, although the short time granted by the steamboat directors does not allow of their being visited. They consist of — 1. The Boat Cave, accessible only by sea, in depth about 150 ft. 2. M'Kinnon's, or the Cor- morants Cave, is about 220 ft. in length, and 50 ft. in height at the entrance. 3. The Scollop Shell Cave is of no great dimensions, but is interesting from the form of the columns, which are bent like a series of ship's timbers. The remaining curiosity is the Giant's Colonnade, with the rock of ' ' Buachaille " (the shepherd), a sort of small causeway or cluster of columns forming an islet about 30 ft. high, not far from Fingal's Cave. Its pillars are placed on a series of curved ones, visible only at low water. Indeed, this causeway is as interesting as anything on the island, but tourists scramble over it in their hurry to get to the cave, without paying it the attention it deserves. After visiting Staffa in the mixed society of a crowded steamboat, most persons wiU agree with Words- worth, — % " We saw, but surely in the motley crowd Not one of us had/e?i the far-famed sight. How could we feel it ? each the other's blight. Hurried and hurrying, volatile and loud. .... One votary at will might stand Gazing, and take into his mind and heart. With undisturbed reverence, the effect Of those proportions, where the Almighty hand That made the world, the Sovereign Architect, Had deigned to work as if with human art. " The island is rented by the Steam- boat Company from the proprietor. The boatmen are chiefly natives of Ulva. W. Scotland. Fioute 35. — lona. 235 8 m. from StafFa to the S. is the Island of Ioxa, where the steamer usually stops one hour. In calm weathei' it is anchored inside a reef op2)osite the village, whence passen- gers are conveyed in boats to a low rude pier, leading to the scattered street of heather-thatched cottages, including an Established church, and a Free, with a manse. There are 2 humble Inns, the Argyll and the Columba. lona is a bare and rather barren treeless island, 3 m. long, studded with niins, among which the square cathedral tower is conspicuous. The name would seem to have been ori- ginally I or Hy (Island), changed subsecjuently to I-Columb-Kill = Island of Columba of the Church. It has about 400 inhab. It belongs to the Duke of Argyll,* and yields about £400 a year rental. The deep interest attached to lona, and its attraction for strangers, are due almost entirely to association. " We Avere now treading that illustrious island which was once the luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving bar- barians derived the beneiits of know- ledge and the blessings of religion. " Far from me and from my friends be such frigid philosophy as may conduct us inclilferent and un- moved over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of Mara- thon, or w-hose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of lona." — Dr. Johnson. In the darkest of the dark ages (a.d. 563) St. Columba, an Irish monk, of noble descent, disgusted with the sanguinary feuds of his counti-ymen, left Ireland, and sought refuge in lona, out of sight of his native land. He landed with 12 * The Duke has published an interesting account of lona. companions, converted Connall, king of the Dalriads, and Bored or Bradi, king of the Picts, and founded here a monastery, which was the means of extending religion and civilisa- tion not only in Scotland and the Islands, but even to the Orkneys and Iceland. The founder of this seat of learning and nursery of the clergy died circa 597, at the very time when Augustine landed in Kent to convert the English. Ko buildiug now remains of the age of St. Columba. The Northern pirates from time to time pillaged these defenceless recluses, and espe- cially, in 807, burned and destroyed the monastery and all belonging to it. On landing from the steamer the stranger is beset by children offering plates full of pebbles, yellow, green, and blue, of serpentine and felspar, rolled by the sm-f, and picked up in the Bay of Currach, where St. Columba first landed from Ireland, on the W. side of the Island. Leaving the cottages of the village, the first ruin we arrive at is the Church of the Priory of Austin Nuns (date, circa 1180), measuring 58 ft. by 20 ft., now roofless, except at one end, where a portion of stone vault remains. The tomb in the wall is that of the last prioress (d. 1543). Her efiig}-, in hood and cloak, occu- pies one-half of the slab, the rest is broken away. Following an ancient, paved cause- way, we pass Maclean's Cross, a single shaft carved with great force and excellence of design, 11 ft. high, one of 350 existing here before the Reformation, when they were de- stroyed (except 2) by the anti-Popish synod of Arg}'ll. A little farther on is the Cemetery (Reilig Oran), the oldest Christian burial-place in Scotland, dedicated to St. Oran, whose Chapel within the enclosure, a small roofless cham- ber of Eomanescpie architecture, is probably the oldest building in lona. 236 Route 35. — lona Cathedral. Sect. III. and dates from tlie lltli centy. It is entered by a low doorway, deeply recessed with chevron mouldings. Within is the tomb of MacFingal, Lord of the Isles, and a friend of King Robert Brace, and hero of Scott's " Lord of the Isles," where for euphony he is styled Ronald, his real name being Angus Og. Here also is an effigy of an armed knight, Macquarrie of Ulva. "lona has long enjoyed, without any very credible attestation, the honour of being reputed the Cemetery of the Scottish kings. It is not un- likely that when the opinion of local sanctity was prevalent, the chieftains of the Isles, and perhaps some of the Irish or Norwegian princes, were deposited in this venerable enclo- sure." — Johnson. Shakspeare alludes to the fact when telling that "the gracious Duncan " was carried to Colmskill — " The sacred storehouse of his predecessors, And guardian of their bones." And Collins describes lona as the place where, " Beneath the showery West, Tlie mighty kings of three fair realms are laid." The cause of this may be found in an ancient Gaelic prophecy, thus ren- dered — " Seven years before that awful day, When time shall be no more, A watery deluge shall o'ersweep Hibernia's mossy shore. The Green-clad Isle, too, shall sink ; While with the great and good, Coloinba's happier isle shall raise Her towers above the flood." According to tradition the tombs in the cemetery were arranged in 9 rows, or "ridges," scarcely now to be distinguished, and the last Scottish king interred here was Macbeth. In the 3d, called "Ridge of the Kings," it was said that the royal remains were enclosed in 3 vaults. but excavations made in 1833 have proved that these have no existence. Here are 2 slabs bearing bishops' croziers. In the 14th row, 2 monu- ments bear Gaelic inscriptions to Irish ecclesiastics. These are the oldest remaining, but do not date farther back than the 12th centy. The 5th row includes the most perfect tombstone to 4 priors of lona, Scotchmen of the same clan. All the royal tombs and all the ancient arrangements have long since been swept away. Solicitude for antiquity, awakened somewhat tar- dily, has collected from among the nettles and rubbish some two score monumental slabs, rudely cai'ved with crosses and swords, loelonging to priest and warriors not now to be identified, none of merit as works of art or of interest for their great antiquity. There are several be- longing to the names of Maclean of Col, Dnart, and Loch Buy, Mac- kinnon and Macquarrie of Ulva. The figure of a galley, the crozier of a bishop or abbot, and the shield and helmet of a king are not of un- frequent occurrence. Leaving " this awful gi'ound," to .use Johnson's words, we proceed N. of the cemetery to the ruins of the Cathcdrcd (St. Mary's), the principal building in lona, having in front a picturesque and curious granite Cross, boldly carved with Runic ornaments and figures, called * St. Martinis Cross, 14 ft. high. The church, dating from beginning of 13th centy., is cruciform ; its length, 115 ft. The nave is nearly demolished and the transepts are aisleless. At the N.W. angle, out- side the nave, are foundations of a cell or chamber, in which it is said the shrine and bones of St. Columba were placed. The Tower at the crossing, 75 ft. high, rests on jiointed arches. Remark the 4 square windows, openings to emit the sound of the bells, each filled with different tracery of elegant^ design and late W. Scotland. lloute 35. — luna Cathedral. 237 date. In the choir aud transepts are 2 engaged pointed arches and 3 circular arches, with elegant tooth mouldings and lattice-patterns alike in both, showing them to be of the same date. On the N. side of the altar is the monument of Abbot Mackinnon (d. 1500), on the S. of Abbot K. Mackenzie, and in the centre that of Macleod of Macleod, with effig}^ in armour. On the S. side are 3 elegant sedilia, which, together with the fine E. window, are in the Decorated Gothic of the 14th centy. \ ra. N. of the cathedral rises the rocky knoll of Dun I, some 300 ft. above the sea. The ascent of it will be well rewarded by the Pano- ranm from the top, extending over the mountains and inlets of Mnll, the Paps of Jnra, the Isles of Eigg, Rum, Statfa, Treshnish, and the far-off rock and lighthouse of Skerry- vore. There is no corn-mill in lona : grain is carried over to Bunessan, in Mnll, to be ground. Failing this "^/le Que/m," or hand-mill, men- tioned in the Bible, is still resorted to. There are two specimens fit for use in the island at present. The scenery of the island of lona does not offer anything in parti- cular. On the "W. side there is a natural curiosity called the " Spout- ing Cave" where the water, rush- ing in and compressing the air, is forced back through a small orifice to a great height. From the village there is a ferry across the Sound of lona to the Ross of Mull, where the granite quarries are worth notice. A road leads from Port Dearg on that coast to Bunessan, 5 m., a small town situated at the extremity of Loch Lathaich, and not far from Ardtun, where the geologist will find the tertiary leaf-beds before alluded to. A steamer from Glasgow calls at Bunessan once or twice a month. There is a small Inn at Bunessan. " The Rev. Thomas M'Lachlan has traced for a distance of 7 miles a series of granite monoliths in Mull, each about 6 ft. in height, at intervals of about half-a-mile, the oue within sight of the next, extending east- wards and along the shore of Loch Screidan from the first nearest the shore, which stands in a conspicuous place within sight of the cathedral. He ascertained that there is a vague tradition among the people that these were Avaymarks to lona, and that there had been a continuous line, though most of the stones have now disappeared." — Anderson. Macdonald, the postmaster of lona, keeps a safe boat, in which parties may be conveyed for 12s. to 20s., according to their number, to Staffa from lona. 15 m. S. W. of lona is the solitary rock of Dhu Reartach (St. John's Rock), a solitary trap rock, 220. ft. long, rising 30 ft. out of deep water, in the midst of dangerous reefs occu- pying some square miles — long a source of danger to mariners — but since 1867-72 surmounted by a Light- Jiouse 100 ft. high, erected by the Messrs. Stevenson, engineers to the Commissioners of the Northern Light- houses. The difficulties in approach- ing the rock were very great. On an average this was possible on only 50 days in a year. The stones and other material were prepared at Erraid granite quarries in the Ross of Mull. On one occasion 14 stones, each of 2 tons, fixed by jaggles and cement into the masonry, 37 ft. above high water, were torn out by the waves and swept off the rock. The S.W. angle of Mull is beset with reefs extending nearly all the way to the lighthouse, whose use is to warn mariners off from them. In steering to or from lona, the steamer, by aid of careful surveys 238 Route 36. — Ohan to Bannavie. Sect. III. and experienced pilots, is able to thread its way safely througli a little archipelago of granite islets, by a narrow and intricate channel. Soon after rounding Ardalanish Point, the granite ceases, and gives place to igneous rocks, which gra- dually rise into precipitous cliffs. At Carsaig (A. ]\[aclean, Esq.), at the entrance to Loch Buy, the scenery is extraordinarily fine— consisting of a series of basaltic rocks, which in one instance have been pierced through by the action of the sea so as to obtain for them the name of the Carsaig arches. These cliffs rise to the height of 1000 ft., surmounted by columnar basalt, exceeding all others in Scotland, save those of Hoy. The inland cliffs between Loch Buy and Loch Spelve are basaltic. At the head of Loch Buy, a considerable salt-water inlet, the mountains of Ben Buy (2.352 ft. ) and Creachbeinn (2.344 ft.) are seen, while seaward the traveller obtains good views of Colonsay, Oronsay, Gar- velloch or the Isles of the Sea, and the distant ranges of Scarba and Jura, in which the Paps are parti- cularl}^ conspicuous. Moy is the modern seat of M 'Lean of Loch Buy. Here Johnson and Boswell stayed on their return from the Hebrides, and it was here Johnson was so offended by Miss M'Lean's offer of cold sheep's-head for supper. 1. Loch Spelve is another narrow fiord, ramifying for a considerable distance inland. The cliffs between Lochs Buy and Spelve are lofty and picturesque. The steamer now enters the Sound of Kerrera. There is a ferry from the Point of Crushna- craig (4 m. from Duart Castle, 9 m. from Salen) to Kerrera. Passing on rt. Gallenach (P. M'Dougall, Esq.), we soon arrive at Oban (Ete. 31). ROUTE 36. Oban to Bannavie, by Loch Linnhe, Appin, Ballachulish (Glencoe), and Fort -"William. —Ben Wevis. Every morning a steamer runs be- tween Oban and Ballachulish, giving tourists time to see Glencoe, return- ing in .'the evening. The sail up Loch Linnhe is very beautiful, and, being .so completely landlocked, the water is seldom very rough. On rt. the steamer passes Dunolly and Dun- staff'nage castles (Rte. 31), guarding the entrance to Loch Etive, which is crossed by a reef at Conn el Ferry, and 1. the long Island of Lismore. On Lismore were once an import- ant ecclesiastical establishment and a considerable population. It was also the locality of the cathedral ch. of the diocese of Argjdl. " The cathedral of St. Moluac, the seat of the bishops of a diocese which was dismembered from Dunkeld in the beginning of the 13th cent., is per- haps the humblest in Britain. The High ch. of Argyll is less than 60 ft. in length, by 30 ft. in breadth — it has no aisles, and seems to have had neither transejjts nor nave. " — Robert- son. It is now modernised, and used as a parish ch. On the N'.W. coast, on a high rock, are the ruins of Auclrnvdouni Castle, the ancient seat of the Bishops of Argjdl. It is a square of 80 ft. with walls 40 ft. high, the interior being divided into two portions. It was from this palace that the Bishops of Argyll acquired the title of " Episcopi Lis- morenses," just as the Bishops of Sodor and Man obtained their title from the Sudreys, Sodorenses, or Southern Hebrides, which formed a portion of the diocese of Ebude. From the N. end of Lismore there is a short ferry to Port Appin (a comfortable inn), where the sports- W.Scotland. Eoufe 36. — Ohan to Ballachulish : Appin. 239 man may shoot seals, -n-liich are plentiful along these shores. [From Oban to Ballachulish a road i-uns near the coast the whole way, crossing 3 ferries ; passing 1 m. Dunolly, and a little farther on 1. Dunstaffnage Castle. Loch Etive is crossed at Connel Ferry, 5 m. , where at certain times the tide rushes with great fury over a reef of rocks, form- ing a sort of sea waterfall (Ete. 31). The scenery is remarkably line. Ben Cruachan and its giant fellows form a grand background on the W. Near the bay of Ardmucknish is a little rocky eminence called Dun Macsniochan, or the Fort of the Sons of Usnoth, surmounted by the re- mains of a vitrified fort. This is believed by some antiquaries to be the site of Bcregonmm, the old Pictish capital of this district, before it was occupied by the Scots, The rock has two peaks, each surmounted by a vitrified wall ; and a raised way, called Straidmharagaid, "the mar- ket street," said to have been the principal street of the city, but which was more probably the work of Chris- tian times, and connected with the small cemetery at the base of the cliff". The "Selma" of Ossian also claims a position on this spot. On the opposite promontory is Loch- nell, the residence of D. Campbell, Esq. The road from Bonawe and Ardchattan Priory (Rte. 31) falls in here. 8 m. Barcaldine — a finely situated old mansion, once a seat of a branch of the Campbells — is the residence of Mrs. Cameron. Near it is a small inn called Nova Zembla. At Shean Ferry 10 m., where the inlet of Loch Creran is crossed, the traveller leaves the district of Lorn and enters that of Appin, passing 1. Airds (R. j\Iacfie, Esq.)] t 14 m. at Port A2)]nn there is a comfortable little Inn, at which the steamers to Ballachulish calL Eilean Stacker (the Island of the Falconer), a castle standing on a rock detached from the shore, was long the residence of the Stewarts of Appin. It bears the royal arms over the door, because it was built for James IV. Quitting Appin and passing 1. the Island Shuna, with remains of a castle, and rt. Appin House (Miss Downie), the steamer diverges E. into the narrow Firth of Loch Leven, and touches at + Ballachulish Pier {Hotel .- 5 m, from Glencoe, described in Rte. 34), 27 m. from Oban. The steamer next crosses Loch Linnhe to call off" 'y Ardgour, a cheer- ful little place with an inn, on the Morven side of the coast, and below Con-an Ferry, commanding a mag- nificent view of the mountains oj^po- site. Behind the village is a water- fall, visible at a long distance, and known as the Ardgour Totoel, it is presumed from its whiteness. Here the inlet of Loch Linnhe opens into Loch Eil, the first of the chain of lakes belonging to the Great Glen through which the traveller passes to Inverness. Ardgour House is the residence of A. M'Lean, Esq. From Ardgour an excursion may be made to Lochs Sunart and Moidart (Rte. 36a). As you ascend Loch Eil (rt.) Ben Nevis comes in sight before the vessel reaches the pier of t Maryburgh, \ m. distant from the straggling and dirty little town of Fort- William {Inn : Chevalier, near the pier, Caledonian — tolerable), which takes its name from ?ifort on the S.E. side, originally built by General Monk, afterwards enlarged and strengthened by William III., chiefly with the view of keeping in check the turbulent clan Cameron, but now sold by Government to Camp- bell of Monzie. It was beseiged, with- out success, by the rebels in 1746. 240 Bimte o6. — Ohan to Fort-William : Bannavie. Sect. III. At Kilmally, near Bannavie, is a mommient erected to Col. Cameron, of the 92d Highlanders, killed at Quatre Bras [see Rte. 37). Distances. — Ballachulish, 12^ ni. ; Glencoe, by the Devil's Staircase, 20 ; Bannavie, 3 ; Inverlochy, li ; Spean Bridge, 9^ ; Bridge of Roy, 13 ; Loch Laggan, 32 ; Prince Charles's Monnment, 18 ; Kinloch Aylort, 28; Arisaig, 38 ; Gairlochy, 11.] 1^ m. 1., between Fort- William and Bannavie, on the 1. bank of the Lochy, just below the suspension bridge, is the Castle of Inverlochy, a quadrangular building flanked by round towers at the 4 corners. It is possible that tliis was erected by Edward I. for the purpose of check- ing the unrul}^ mountaineers, as Fort- William was built about 4 centuries after. Under its walls, in 1645, the Covenanters under Argyle were sur- prised by Montrose, and defeated with the loss of 1500 men. Argyle himself retired on board ship at the beginning of the action. There is a beautiful picture of Inverlochy Castle — one of Macculloch's finest — in the National Gallery at Edinburgh. The road from Fort- William (having first crossed the Nevis) is carried over the broad stream of the Lorchy by a suspension bridge, on which is a heavy toll of 2s. for a carriage to Bannavie. The sea steamer halts at t Corimch, close to the mouth of the Caledonian Canal and Neptune's Staircase. Om- nibus conveys passengers 1 m. to Bannavie Inn : Lochiel Arms, good, but very expensive, 1 874. Post- horses and Traps. Inns at Fort- William more moderate ; its situa- tion is fine, and it commands per- haps the best view of Ben Nevis ; and it is convenient for tourists going to Inverness by the morning's steamer {sec Rte. 39). Distances to — Fort- William, 3 m. ; Inverlochy Castle, 1^ ; Spean Bridge, 9 ; Bridge of Roy, ] 2 ; Base of Ben Nevis, 2 ; to the summit, 8 ; Glencoe, by the Devil's Staircase, 23 ; Loch Laggan, 31 ; Kingussie, 53 ; Kin- loch Aylort, 25 ; Glenfinnan, 15 ; Arisaig, 36. [The excursion, j^a?- excellence, from Bannavie and Fort- William is that up Ben Nevis (4368 ft.), the highest mountain in Scotland, and indeed in Great Britain, which stands at the back and to the E. of Fort- William, and opposite the hotel at Bannavie, from whence an admirable view is obtained of its massive proportions. The first impression of Ben Nevis is disappointing, for it is anything but a gi-aceful mountain, and, from the absence of peak or cone, it takes some little time to realise its great height and gigantic mass. One of its cha- racteristic features is the almost con- stant presence of snow in the gi'eat . precij)ices facing the N. E. , even in the hottest summer — a fortunate occur- rence for Cameron of Glen Nevis, who, it is said, holds his land by the tenure of an unfailing snowball when demanded. Ben Nevis belongs to a large and important range of mountains, though separated from them liy deep ravines on the E. and W., that on the W. Glen Nevis being strongly marked. The N. face, which is the best for the ascent, consists of two portions, the lower a broad, almost square basement, upon which stands the steep black head that forms the difii- cult part of the ascent. The charge for a guide is from 8s. to 10s. The necessity for taking him depends entirely on the weather, and on the tourist's acquaintance with moun- tains. For some a compass and a map are all that is necessary ; but the greater number will be all the safer for a guide, as Beu' Nevis is famous for mists, and the precipices on the N. E. side are very dangerous. Ladies may easily ride as far as the lake, which is 1700 ft. above the sea. W. Scotland. Route 36. — Ascent of Ben Nevis. 241 The ascent was made by the Empress Eugenie, August 1872. From Banuavie to the summit is a walk of about 8 m., which will take 3i hrs. ; the descent may be made in 2 hrs. Crossing the Loehy by the suspen- sion bridge, a path strikes up from the Distillery along the 1. bank of the burn, which descends from a mountain tarn 1700 feet above the sea. Keeping this on the 1. you skirt its upper extremity, and turn 1. up the face of the mountain. Skirt the edge of this till opposite the face of the mountain, and then strike across the valley and commence the ascent. This part of Ben Nevis appears to be one gigantic heap of stones, and the members of a party should keep in line, as in shooting, since the stones are liable to be displaced and fall down. The summit of Ben Nevis consists of 3 great ridges, nearly parallel. The 2 outside ones are grey granite, very much of equal height, while the middle is of red porpliyry, not much lower. The one to the S. soon nar- rows into a sharp-edged ridge, so narrow that ' ' a single block of granite may split into two parts, of which one would roll crashing down the steep slope into the valley on the 1., while the other would leap to the bottom of the glen on the rt. In this sharp form the ridge divides, one arm sweeping round the head of the glen on the N.E. side, while the other circles westward to the shoulders of Ben Nevis. "^ — Geikie. If the atmosphere is clear, the for- tunate tourist will see a panorama about 100 m. in diameter, extending from sea to sea, and embracing nearly every lofty mountain in Scot- land. ' ' In no other place is the general and varied character of the Highlands better illustrated, and from none can the geologist, whose eye is open to the changes wrought by sub-aerial waste on the surface of the country, gain a more vivid in- [Scotland.] sight into their reality and magni- tude. It is easy to recognise the more marked heights. To the S., away down Loch Linnhe, he can see the hills of Mull and the Paps of Jura, closing in the horizon — Loch Eil seems to be at his feet, winding up into the lonely mountains. "Far over the hills, beyond the head of the loch, he looks across Arisaig, and can see the cliffs of the Isle of Eigg, and the dark peaks of Bum, with the Atlantic gleaming below them. Farther to the N. W. the blue range of the Coolins rises along the sky-line, and then sweep- ing over all the intermediate ground, through Arisaig, and Knoj^dart, and Clanranald's country (where the Pre- tender landed, whence also he de- parted), mountain rises beyond moun- tain, ridge beyond ridge, cut through by dark glens, and varied here and there with the sheen of lake and tarn . N orth ward runs th e mysterious straight line of the Great Glen, with its chain of lochs. Thence to E. and S. the same billowy sea of mountain tops stretches out as far as the eye can follow it — the hills and glens of Lochaber, the wide green strath of Spean, the grey corries of Glen Treig and Glen Nevis, the distant sweep of the mountains of Brae Lyon and the Perthshire Highlands, the spires of Glencoe, and thence round again to the blue waters of Loch Linnhe." — Geikie. Ben Cruachan, Ben Lomond, Ben More, Ben Screel, Ben Lawers, Schie- hallion. Cairngorm, Ben Wyvis — giants all — are plainly visible in this remarkable scene. The descent is more dangerous, though not so laborious as the ascent, and great care should be taken. The whole journey from the hotel and back again will occupy nearly 6 hours. The top of Ben ^ Nevis may be reached from Fort- WiViam, by as- cending Glen Nevis, some way be- yond the farm of Achartre, and then turning 1, up the shoulder of the hill, 242 Rs. 36a, Ardgour. — 37, Bannavie to Arisaig. Sect. III. Avliicli will bring you in sight of the tarn mentioned al30ve. Glen Nevis is one of the grandest glens in Scotland, and an excursion may be made up to its very head, visiting on the way Dunjardil, a fine vitrified fort, and a rocking-stone. There can hardly be a more plea- sant Excursion than that to Arisaig (Rte. 37), where the Inn, though small, is comfortable and moderate. Conveyances from Fort- William. — Coach daily to Glencoe and the head of Loch Lomond, with branch to Oban. Coach every morning to Kingussie (50 m. Rte. 38) to meet the mail train. Steamers daily to Oban an. Y ^MkJUr'"'' A Loridan - John Murray iibenuirlt W. Scotland. Route 3' -Fassifern ; Glenfinnan. 243 vie, thus avoiding the numerous locks by means of which the Cale- donian Canal descends to the level of the sea in Loch Eil, known as Nc})- tunes Staircase (Rte. 39), which causes the Inverness steamer to start from the top to save time. The cargo-boats which ply to and from Glasgow have to pass through the locks. 14 ni. rt., in Kilmally ch.-yard, is an obelisk to the memor}^ of Colonel Cameron of the 92d Highlanders, who was shot at Quatre Bras. The inscription is from the pen of Sir Walter Scott. Byron's famous lines in "Childe Harold" form even a more lasting epitaph. The road now skirts the N. shore of Loch Eil, which makes a peculiar turn on itself, forming a right angle. The views of the Ben Nevis range are very fine until they are shut out by the intervening mountains of Ard- gour. 3 m. is a shooting-lodge, and 65 m. is Fassifern, a seat of the late Sir Duncan Cameron, whose father, Sir Ewen Cameron, was created a baronet for his son's eminent servi- ces in Holland, Egypt, and the Peninsula. The road is good, but not very picturesque ; nor is there much beauty in Loch Eil, though the view of the mountains overhang- ing the end of it is very pleasing. [From Fassifern there is a fine though very solitary walk up Glen Souleach to Stronliath, the highest summit of the mountains intervening between Loch Eil and Loch ArJcaig, which is reached by a path descend- ing Glen Camagorie, and joining a track at the head of Loch Arkaig by the old Barrack. The same track continues "\V. up Glen Dessary, and thence to the head of Loch Nevis, 10 m., a grand though seldom visited fiord, both shores of which are lined by mountains from 1800 to 2500 ft. in height. (iS'ee below Arisaig, p. 244.) At the head of Loch Nevis is the little village of Sourlies, at the base of Scour-na-caich (3399 ft. ), whence j the tourist can make his way to In- verie, another village on the coast of the loch, but lower down (a good Inn). In point of distance the walk between Fassifern and Sourlies would be something like 23 m., but such excursions cannot be measured by mere mileage where the character of the country is so severe. The chief features of Loch Nevis are the out- lines and gi-andeur of the hills, which rise immediately from the shore, though there is a lack of wood or any softening contrast for the eye to rest upon. Occasionally the Skye steamer makes an excursion up Loch Nevis for wool.] Passing Lochiel House (now a farmhouse), the tourist reaches a shooting-box of Ld. Morton, a little short of 15 m. Glenfinnan (small Inn, sells beer). There is a neat Rom. Cath. Chaiiel. at the head of Loch Shiel and Glenfinnan, a wild and solitary spot, its rocky sides clothed with beautiful Scotch firs and birch. At Glenfinnan a monument to Prince Charles Edward stands in a beaiitiful situation close to the road, at the junction of 4 glens. In itself it is only an ordinary Pillar, built of the common stone of the country, and surmounted by a statue of the Prince in the act of addressing his followers. The column was erected by Macdonald of Glenalladale on the very spot where, in the presence of about 700 Camerons and 300 Mac- donalds, the Prince's standard was unfurled by the Marquis of Tulli- bardine, on the 1 9th of August 1745. It will also serve to commemorate his escape from Scotland, which took place in the same district on the 20th September in the following year. ' ' In Glenfinnan the most striking scenery lies near its entrance from Fort- William : the forms of the hills 244 Route 37. — Loch Shi el ; Aiisaig. Sect. III. being not only fine, but their acclivi- ties iDeing diversified by rocks and precipices in a grandeur of style extremely rare. '' — Macculloch. ioc^ ^AteHs a narrowwinding fresh- water lake, 26 m. long, in no part 1 m. wide, communicating by a short arm with the sea at Loch Moidart, and separating the districts of Sunart and Moidart. On its banks Prince Charles lay hid for a considerable time, and was at length ferried across the lake in a hollow oak trunk, so as to escape the watchful eyes of the troops. From Glenfinnan the road to Ari- saig becomes wilder and rougher, though more picturesque. It skirts the northern shore of Loch Eanuoch for nearly 4 m., and reaches 25 m. Kinloch-Aylort (head of Loch Aylort), where there is a poor little Inn. Inveraylort House is the residence of D. Cameron, Esq. [Here the road divides — the one to the S. skirting the southern coast of Loch Aylort to Kinloch- Moidart (Rte. 36), and thence to Shiel Bridge and Salen. By this road the pedes- trian can visit all this beautiful coast, returning to Ardgour by Strontian (Rte. 36a).] The road then crosses the high ground between Loch Aylort and Loch-na-Nuagh, the finest portion of the excursion. This was the precise spot where Prince Charles landed in Scotland, July 2.5, 1745. In the farm-house of BoiTadale, situated on the road, then held by one Angus Macdonald, he first took shelter. He disembarked from the small vessel, the Doutelle, with only seven fol- lowers, afterwards known as ' ' the .seven men of Moidart " and here he re-embarked 14 months after, hav- ing been a wanderer ever since Cul- loden. 36 m. Arisaig {Inn most com- mendable ; good, clean, and mode- rate ; English landlord ; waggon- ettes). This hamlet of a few houses, and a Rom. Cath. Cliapd on the height, is in a fine position, com- manding sea views of the Scuir of Eigg and other islands. Many charm- ing Excursions by land and water from Arisaig to Castle Tyi'im and Kinloch-Moidart. Walk to Loch- na-Nuagh, where a boat can be ob- tained to cross to the opposite farm of Samalaman. From thence there is a road (3 m.) to Loch Moidart, across which another boat will take the tourist . to Castle Tyrim, a curious old fortress, a pentagon in shape, enclosing a large court, and supposed to have been built in the 14th centy. by the wife of John, Lord of the Isles. It is still the property of their descendants, the Clanranald family. Dorlin, a seat of Lord Howard of Glossop, lies S. of Castle Tyrim, on Loch Moidart. On Eilcan Fiannan is a cemetery around a ruined chapel, filled with graves of the Clanranalds and other families of Moidart, by the inhabitants of which it is looked on with feelings of great veneration. At the head of Loch Moidart, the inlet on which Castle Tyrim is situated, are the village of Kinloch-Moidart and Moidart House, the seat of the Robertson family, of which Dr. Robertson the historian was a mem- ber. The old house was burned down by George II. 's troops in re- venge for the owner's partiality to the Stuart cause. Charles Edward spent 24 days here collecting his adherent followers, until Aug. 18th, when he set out to raise his standard in Glenfinnan. The Skye steamer calls at Arisaig about every 10 days, but the place of embarkation is 3 m. from the village. This distance may, how- ever, be rowed in a boat. In the neighbourhood are Borradale, and Arisaig Castle (Trustees of late F. D. W. Scotland. Route 38. — Fort-William to Kingussie. ' 245 Astley, Esq.), cliarming spots, 3 m. h. The peniusula of Arisaig is ex- ceedingly wild and mountainous, particularly to the IST., where a iine chain of hills divides Loch Morar (which is fresh water) from Loch Nevis. There is a carriage-road from Arisaig to L. Morar, and a path along its N. shore, from which you may cross the hills by a line pass, commanding hotli lakes and the mountain of Craig or Sgur Mor (1995 ft. high), to Tarhct on S. shore of Loch Nevis (a small homely Inn). Here a boat may be hired to head of Loch, whence down Glen Dessary is 12 m, to Loch Arkaig.] In the loch of Arisaig " a cran- nage " or lake dwelling was dis- covered about 250 yds. distant from the land. It was formed of layers of trunks of trees, forming a strong and firm-built rectangular house. Arisaig is the nearest point from which to make an excursion to Eigg ; but as the Skye steamer occasionally stops at that island by signal, that is by far the best way of reaching it. ROUTE 38. Fort-William to Kingussie, by Glen Spean, Glen Roy (the Parallel Roads), and Loch Laggan. 50 m. Fort-William {Inn, Cale- donian, see Ete. 36). A coach runs to Kingussie in 7 hrs. and back daily, to meet the mail train on the Highland Railway (Pae. 48). The road passes on 1. Inverlochj'- Castle, the Suspension Bridge, and Torlandie, the modern seat of Lord Abinger, who is a large proprietor in this district. On rt. are seen the massive range of Ben Nevis, and its round shoulders. The scenery is very picturesque at 94 m. Spean Bridge (a good Inn), where the Spean is crossed, a fine brawling Highland stream, full of deep eddies and swift currents. It is a noble salmon river, but strictly preserved, principally by Lord Abin- ger. The gorge of the S2:)ean above this is very romantic, varied by woods and rocks. At Highhridge it is again spanned by an old pictur- esque bridge of 3 arches, built by Gen. Wade, the spot where the cam- paign of the '45 was opened, by Cap- tain Scott and a detachment sent from Fort- Augustus being surprised and made prisoners by the Mac- donalds of Keppoch. Some of the famous geological "roads " begin to appear on the sides of the mountains in Glen Spean, as the tourist approaches Glen PlOij, and the (13 m.) Bridge of Eoy Inn, situated at its mouth. Most of the celebrated geologists of the day have visited this Inn on a pilgrimage to Glen Roy and its Parallel Roads. [From Bridge of Roy to the Lodge (A. Prior, Esq.), at the head of the glen, it is about 9 m., but an excellent view of " the Roads" is obtained about 4 m. up the valley. — "Each of these roads is a shelf or terrace, formed by the shorewaters of a lake that once filled Glen Roy. The highest is of course the oldest, and those beneath it were formed in succes- sion, as the waters of the lake were lowered. This lake not only filled up Glen Roy, but also some of the other valleys to the west. Until Agassiz suggested the idea of a dam of glacier ice, the great difficulty in the way of understanding how a lake could ever have filled these valleys was the entire absence of anj'- relic of the barrier that must have kept back the water. Mr. Jamieson has shown, however, that Agassiz's suggestion is fully borne out by the evidence of great glacial erosion both in Glen 24G Route 3S.—GIen Roy ; Loch Treig. Sect. III. Spean and in tlie valley of the Cale- donian Canal. The latter valley- seems to have been filled to the biini with ice, which, choking up the mouths of Glens Roy and Spean, served to pond back the waters of these glens. The Glen Treig glacier in like manner stretched right across Glen Spean, and mounted its north bank. When the lake that must have thus filled Glen Eoy and the neighbouring valleys was at its deepest, its surplus waters would escape from the head of Glen Eo}^ down into Strathspey, and at that time the uppermost beach or parallel road (1140 ft. above the present sea- level) was formed. The Glen Treig glacier then shrank back a little, and the lalce was thus lowered about SO ft., so as to form the middle terrace, wdiich is 1059 ft. above the sea, the outflow being now by the head of Glen Glaster and through Loch Lag- gan into the Spey. i\.fter the lake had remained for a time at that height, the Glen Treig glacier con- tinued on the decline, and at last crept back out of Glen Spean. By this means the level of the lake was reduced to 847 ft. above the sea, and the waters of Glen Roy joined those of Loch Laggan, forming one long winding lake, having its outflow, by what is now the head of Glen Spean, into Strathspey. While this level was maintained, the lowest of the parallel roads of Glen Roy was formed. As the climate of the glacial period grew milder, however, the mass of ice which choked up the mouth of Glen Spean and ponded back the waters, gradual!}'- melted away : the drainage of Glen Roy, Glen Spean, and their tributar)^ valleys was no longer arrested, and as the lake crept step by step down the glen towards the sea, the streams one by one took their places in the channels, which they have been busy widening and deepening ever since." — Geikie. By ascending two-thirds of Glen Roy, and turning to the 1. up the trilDutar}^ glen of Glen Furraied, a good pedestrian may cross the ridge intervening between it and Loch Lochy, and catch the Inverness steamer at Laggan (Rte. 39), or he may cross the watershed to Loch Spey, and so descend the strath, joining the old military road at Corryarrick, about 5 m. from Loch Spey, a small tarn, which is the cradle of the Spey.] For several miles above the junc- tion of the Eoy and Spean, the latter runs through a very grand, rocky channel, well sheltered by foliage, and very picturesque. 174 m. the Treig falls into the Spean from Loch Treig on S. [at the mouth of the glen Agassiz points to the remarkable terraced mounds of blocks left by the glaciers, which, he says, reminded him of those moraines in the valley of Chamounix. Amongst these masses, which are composed of syenite, Mr. Jameson found one measuring 26 ft. in length, and he compares the moraine to a ruined breakwater. A road runs on the E. side of Loch Treig, and round its head, or the tourist can return to Glen Spean by another road doAvn the glen known as Larig Leach- dach. A well -seasoned pedestrian can ascend Glen Treig, climb over the ridge into Glen Nevis, and so descend to Fort- William, as fine a mountain-walk as can be got in Scotland. From the head of Loch Treig another road runs S. E. to the head of Loch Leven and the Devil's Staircase (Rte. 34).] The country, which has hitherto been fully or partially cultivated, becomes wild and bleak, on approach- ing Loch Laggan. On an eminence near its W. end is the Highland seat of Mr. Ansdell, R.A., the animal painter. Loch Laggan, 7 m. long, and 1 broad, contains 2 small islands, upon one of which are the ruins of a Inverness. Boute 39. — Caledonian Canal. 247 castle, said to have been built by Fergus II. On the S. side of the loch is Ardverikie, a shooting-lodge of Sir John Ramsden, Bart., to whom the adjoining domain belongs. The Queen and Prince Consort occu- pied this house for some weeks in 1848, when it belonged to Lord Abercorn. On the walls were some admirable sketches of Deer Stalking, by Sir Edw. Landseer. 32 m. at the E. end of Loch Lag- gan is a fair Inn, and close by is the old Kirk of Laggan, a rough, rootless shell, full of nettles and modern tombstones, and near it is Mr. Armi- stead's Lodge. The rushing river Pattach feeds Loch Laggan. Soon after leaving the inn the watershed between the Atlantic and the Ger- man Ocean rivers is passed, and the road enters and descends the valley of the Spey. [At the junction of the 2 rivers Mashie and Spey the Corrxjarrick road falls in, at one time an im- portant communication between the E. and W. Highlands, but now little used. It passes Glenshirra shooting- lodge (Evan Baillie, Esq.) and the Garvamore, once an inn, then fol- lows the valley of the Spey until the road from Inverness joins it. The scenery is excessively wild at the Corryarrick Pass, where the road is carried over Corryarrick Mountain, and winds down the Tarff valley, by a series of 16 extraordinary zigzags, to Fort- Augustus (Rte. 39) ; the dis- tance to which from Bridge of Laggan is about 20 m.] At the angle formed by the Spey and the ]\Iashie in Glenshirra is the interesting British fort of Dunda- lair, the walls of which, of slabs of slates in dry masonry, are 12 ft. thick and 14 ft. high. "It is the most perfect British stronghold in Scotland." — D. JV. It is 12 m. from Kingussie. At the Bridge of Laggan the Spey is crossed by a timber bridge. At one end of it stands the Old Kirk and manse, where Mrs. Grant of Laggan lived, and wrote "Letters from the Mountains," and at the other the Free church. A little farther on the 1. is Chiny Castle, the seat of Ewen Macpherson, Esq., chief of the clan Macpherson and the clan Chattan, whose pipes, preserved here, are said to be the identical pipes which stirred up the passions at the battle between clan Chattan and clan Quhele on the North Inch at Perth, so well de- scribed by Sir Walter Scott in " The Fair Maid of Perth." The road runs under the grand precipices of Craig Dhu. At 47 m. , Newton More Stat. , the road joins the Perth and Inverness road, and runs parallel with the Highland Railway to 50 m. Kingussie Stat. {Hotel: Duke of Gordon, fair ; coach to Fort-Wil- liam starts from this house), Rte. 48. ROUTE 39. Bannavie to Inverness, by the Caledonian Caaal, Fort-Augus- tus, Loch Oich, Loch Ness, and Falls of Foyers. A steamer starts every morning in summer from Bannavie at 8, and from Inverness at 7. They cross midway near Fort- Augustus about 12, making the voyage in 9 hrs. , including the passage of 8 or 10 locks, which occupy 2 hrs. (9 min. each). Passengers can breakfast and dine on board comfortably. A halt of \ hr. at the Falls of Foyers per- mits a hasty visit to them. The Caledonian Canal is the con- necting link between Lochs Eil, Lochy, Oich, and Ness, and opens a line of communication through the 248 Boute 39. — Bannavie to Inverness. Sect. III. "Glen More nan Albin," or the Great Glen of Scotland, between the Atlantic and German Oceans. Public attention was first directed to the scheme in 1773, when Watt the engineer was intrusted to make a survey and report upon its feasi- bility. Nothing, however, teas clone until 1803, A\hen this magnificent undertaking was commenced, and, after costing a million sterling, was opened for traffic in 1822. But it had not been properly finished ac- cording to the original plan, and after some years Avas found to be little better than useless. The Govern- ment again took it up in 1838, and consulted Mr. AValker, civil en- gineer, and Sir Edward Parry, R.N., as to the feasibility of its comple- tion. By their recommendation certain improvements were made, and the canal finally re-opened in 1847, at the cost of a further sum of £250,000. The entire length of the navigation from Corpach to Clach-na-harry, the Inverness terminus, is 60 ^ m., of which 23 m. only are canal, the rest being the natural waterway of the Lochs which the canal connects. It is 20 ft. deep, 50 ft. broad at the bottom, and 110 ft. at the top. The summit-level at Loch Oich is 100 ft. above the level of the sea at Cor- pach and Inverness. This canal pre- sented great advantages to sailing vessels, for, whereas a ship might be for weeks or even months windbound before it could come round the Pent- land Firth, it can now reckon on crossing from sea to sea in 48 hours. The introduction of steam has de- prived the Canal of this gi'eat utility. The rates are Is. per register ton, with additional charge if steam-power is required. Both Caledonian and Crinan Canals are under the super- vision of commissioners appointed by Government. The Great Glen, through which this singular waterway exists, is the largest of those longitudinal | valleys common in the "W. of Scot- land, Avhich appear to coincide with the line of a great fault. This fault is considered by Mr. Geikie to be of a date prior to the deposition of the old red sandstone, as the conglome- rate of that age is seen running up the glen from the ]\Ioray Firth, and he believes it to mark the locality of successive disturbances (from its be- ing a weak line in the crust of the earth). This seems to be corrborated by the fact that Loch Kess has fre- quently been agitated violently dur- ing several historical earthquakes. Telford's greatest difiiculty lay at the commencement, to connect liOch Lochy with the sea at Corpach, 80 ft. below it, the distance being onlj'' 8 miles. He managed to surmount the slope of the hill by a series of 8 lochs in succession, which at once lift the water to a height of 64 ft., and which he named NeiJtune!s Staircase. At the top of this the steamer starts for Inverness. * i Bannavie (Inn : Lochiel Arms, good, but dear, 1874), close to the locks, where the canal steamer stops in order to avoid delay of passing through. An omnibus conveys pas- sengers to the sea steamers I5 m. off, at Corpach. This is a good point from which to make the ascent of Ben Nevis {see Rte. 36). The Canal runs thro^^gh the district known as Lochaher, "The Lakes' Mouth. " The scenery on the rt. is very bold and magnificent, and the retrospective view of Ben Nevis one of the best that can be obtained. In the distance also is seen the resi- dence of Lord Abinger. Farther on, the river Lochy is parallel with the canal, but at some distance below, the intervening space being frequently flooded by the dis- charge of superfluous water from the canal. The embankment by which the canal bed is raised 30 or 40 ft. * This mark t denotes a lauding-pier or place where steamers touch. W. Scotland. Boute 39. — Loch Lochj ; Loch Oich. 249 above the natural surface on both sides is remarkable. 8 m. at Gairlochy, is a large regulating lock leading into Loch Locliy. [From here a road runs E. to Spean Bridge, 4 m. {see Rte. 38). The opening of Glen Spean offers a charming prospect from the canal.] Loch Lochy is 10 m. long and 1. m. in breadth, the hills descending close to the water's edge. On 1. is the entrance of the Arkaig, a long, narrow sheet of water, on the northern side of which a road runs to Glen Dessary and Loch iSevis (Rte. 37). [Near the foot of Loch Arkaig is Achnacarry, the modern residence of Cameron of Lochiel. Only a frag- ment remains of the old Castle, which was bui-nt by the Duke of Cumberland in 1746. It was also the residence of the redoubtable Sir Ewen Cameron, noted for his desperate courage, in the field. On the rt. of the lake is Glenfin- taig, well situated. 18 m. Kinloch Lochy, at the foot of Ben Tigh, 2942 ft., was the scene of a ferocious battle in 1544, between the M 'Donalds of Clanranald and the Erasers. The chief of the M 'Donalds had died, and a natural son had seized the property. The Erasers adopted the cause of the right heir, and, having wasted the lands of M 'Donald, were met on their return at this place. The chief of the Erasers and 80 men fell, and the heir of Clanranald was wounded, taken prisoner, and afterwards murdered by the surgeon who was employed to dress his wounds thrusting a needle into his brain ! The section of the Canal (2 m. long) which connects Loch Lochy with Loch Oich terminates E. at the hamlet of Laggan of Glengarry, where are 2 locks. Travellers bound for Glenshiel and Skye may disembark here or at CalJantry, 5 m. farther, near the E. end of Loch Oich, but conveyances are not to be got nearer than Invergany, 4 m. otF. At Laggan Macdonald of Glengarry is buried. He was the latest example of a thorough Highlander, admiring every- thing Celtic with dogged enthusiasm, and despising everything from the South. [By crossing the hills on rt. a pedestrian can reach Glen Roy and its Parallel Roads in about 6 m. of difficult walking. {See Rte. 38.)] 20 m. is the entrance to Loch Oich, a truly beautiful Highland lake, 3i m. long, which empties into Loch Ness, hemmed in by well-wooded banks, and dotted here and there with pretty islands. On the rt. the range of hills is high and steep, though grassy and wooded. On the 1. the principal object is "Glen- garry's Bow^ling Green." 1. There is a singular monument by the loch side, erected by the late M'Donell of Glengarry, over the " Well of Heads.'" It consists of a group of 7 human heads carved in stone, with an inscription in English, Gaelic, Erench and Latin. Keppoch, head of a branch of the M'Donells, died, having sent his 2 sons for edu- cation to Erance, and leaving his affairs to the management of his 7 brothers, by whom his sons on their return were murdered. But the old bard of the family never rested till he got assistance and put the murderers to death. Their heads were presented here to Glen- garry, having been previously washed in this stream, which has ever since been called "Tobar-nan-Ceann," or the "Well of the Heads." 22 m. 1. the ruined castle of Inver- garry, burnt- by the Duke of Cum- berland in 1746, and Invergarry House, the handsome modei-n man- sion, built 1869, of E. Ellice, Esq., M.P., who bought the Glengarry estate from the Earl of Dudley for 250 Route 39. — Liver garr ij ; Loch Ness. Sect. III. £120,000. The house is very well lilaced, overlooking the lake, where the scenery is most charming. It stands at the opening of Gleyi Garry, which stretches from this point to the W. coast, 20 m. It was of old tenanted by the Kennedys, the most savage and untamable' of all the Highland clans. They were eventu- ally expelled or exterminated by a combination of their enemies. The old Castle is an interesting 5-storeyed square tower, with a turret at one side. On a rock above the lake, called " Craig-na-Phithick," or the "Rock of the Raven," which, once the old war-cry of the M'Donells, is now the motto of its chief. Gallantry, close to the Locks, at the N. end of L. Oich, is, 3 m. from Invergarry Inn (tolerable). Post horses and cars may be hired here, but must be ordered beforehand, as the supply is short. This is the start- ing point of the very favourite road to Skye by Glen Shiel Inn, on Loch Duich, 34 m. ; also to Glenelg and Loch Hourn Head, 24 m. (Rte. 60). 23J m. near the end of Loch Oich is Aberchalder, the rendezvous of Prince Charles's forces before proceeding southwards. Here the summit level of the Canal is reached, and the descent com- mences, the steamer passing within 2 m. through 8 locks in succession, an operation which takes about an hour and a half, or even longer, if a vessel should happen to be coming in the opposite direction. Passengers may walk along the bank and regain the steamer at the last lock. Close to these locks at E. is Fort- Aug ivstus, a moated and bastioned fort, at the S. end of Loch Ness, commanding the Pass of Corryarrick into Strath- spey, and Laggan (Rte. 38). + Fort- Augustus, constructed to hold 300 men, but now fast decaying, and no longer Government property, was sold 1867 to Lord Lovat. It was built shortly after the Rebellion of 1715, and named in honour of the then Prince of Wales. {Inns : King's Inn and Glen Tarif, both small and second rate). 29 m. Loch Ness, the last in the chain of lakes, is nearly 24 in. long, and has an average breadth of 1 m. The hills on each side rise directly from the water's edge, and the banks of the lake below the surface of the water are as steep as those of the hills above it ; consequentlj^ the depth in the centre is as much as 130 fathoms, and the surface never freezes. The surrounding ranges rise to a height of 1200 ft., and are densely clothed with trees of all kinds. Mr. Geikie considers that, not- withstanding the existence of a vast fault running down the Great Glen, Loch Ness is a true rock basin, and has been formed by the scooping out of the hollow by glacier ice ! t 34 m. 1. Invermoriston (Inn, good) is the outlet of Glenmoriston, and of an important road to the W. coast and to Skye (Rte. 61), uniting at Clunie Inn with the road from Invergariy to Shiel House Inn. 16 m. below Clunie is Torgoyl hamlet and small Inn, where a path strikes over the mountain in 6 or 7 m. to Fort-Augustus. The Falh of Moiisfon are I m. from the pier. The mouth of the glen is surrounded by a semicircle of well-wooded hills, in front of which is Glenmoriston House (Trustees of the late J. Murray Grant, Esq.), an old mansion modernised. A little higher up, above Ruisky, is another torrent, called Aultguithas, which has an almost vertical fall down the hillside. + 38 m. rt. the steamer touches at the Pier near the mouth of the Foyers river, and the pretty wood and meadows round the house of J. C. Cunningham, Esq. , so as to allow W. Scotland. Route 39. — Falls of Foyers, 251 the tourist an opportunity to visit the Falls of Foyers. Pier ^4d. toll). There is a good Hotel at Foyers, occupying the site of an inn called the "(General's Hut" (from its having been General Wade's head- quarters while superintending the roads in the Highlands). The river Foyers takes its source in a mountain lake to the E. of Fort- Augustus, on the skirts of the Mo- nagh Leagh mountains, and con- tinues its course at a considerable elevation, till it reaches the edge of the hills which hem in the valley of the Ness on the S.E. Here it de- scends in two gi-and falls through a deep and tortuous gash or glen in the mountain side, rocky, but shrouded within thick woods, so that the Fall is in\'isible from the lake. The steamers going N. and S. stop here 4 an hour to let the passengers visit the Falls, but it is a steep though pretty walk of at least 10 min. from the landing-place to the lower Fall, with the sight of which the visitor is obliged usually to be content. It is far the finest. The river rushing down from this through a rough and rocky channel, finally throws itself over the preci- pice into a pool 90 ft. below. Both river and falls are closely bordered with birch, which on a sunny day add much to the beauty. " It cannot be disputed that F03'- ers is the first in order of all our cascades ; but it is as vain to at- tempt to compare it, in respect of beauty, with that of the Tummel or those of the Clyde, as it would be to compare a landscape of Cuyp with one of Rubens, or the Bay of Naples with Glencoe. " — Maccidloch. The post of vantage to see the lower Fall is on a projecting rock, very happily placed, overlooking the pool. " Among the heathy hills and ruggeil woods The roaring Foyers pours his massy floods, Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, Where thro' a shapeless breach his stream resounds. As high in air the bursting torrents flow. As deep recoiling surges foam below. Prone down the ro(^k the whitening sheet descends, And viewless Echo's ear, astonished rends."— IJio- us. The upper Fall is 30 ft. high, and is crossed by a light bridge, beside which there is a pathway leading to the best point for viewing it. Distances — to Inverness, 18 m. ; Fort- Augustus, 14 m. There is a pleasant drive up Glen Farigaig, and above the hotel and Falls. Ferry from Foyers to Ruisky Inn on N. shore. Beyond Foyers on rt. is Inxcrfari- gairj, under a precipitous hill, sur- mounted by the vitrified fort of Duniardd. The visitor who has time to stay at Foyers should Avalk inland from the Falls until he strikes upon the road to Glen Farigaig, re- turning by the shore-road. N"., on the opposite side of the loch, is Mealfourvounic, a fine moun- tain of old red conglomerate, 3060 ft. high, the last of the range that separates Glenmorjston from Glens Afirick and Urquhart. Its ascent can be made in about 2\ hours from '"+ Drumnadrochit Inn {see next page), visiting on the way the Falls of Dhivach). 45 m. 1., on a rocky promontory, are the ruins of Casth Urquhart, originally built in the 12th centy. The remains, forming a considerable enceinte, nearly oval in plan, include a strong square keep of 3 storeys, and a dungeon or pit, surmounted by turrets, and on the land side are defended by a deep and broad moat. The whole area is enclosed by a wall, and the entrance defended by massive towers. The old castle was besieged by the army of Edward I. in 1803, and this was built in its place by his engineers. It next belonged to the Chisholms, and in ] 509 passed into * t Signifies a landing-pier. 252 Pioute 39. — Glen Urquhart. Sect. III. the hands of the clan Grant, whose property it still is. + 1. TcmplcJwuse Pier, at the mouth of Glen Urquhart, is about a mile from the excellent Inn of Drumnadrochit, 14 m. from Inverness. [A little waj' up the Glen is the beautiful residence oi Balmacaan,ihe abode of the Earl of Seafield, chief of the clan Grant. The gi'ounds offer charming walks. An excursion may be made from Drumnadrochit up Glen Urquhart to Strath Affrick by the Chisholm Pass, and the Druim and Inver Cannich, which will intro- duce the stranger to some of the wildest scenery in Scotland (Rte. 65a). ] A coach runs in summer to Inver Cannich.] The upper part of Loch Ness is not particularly interesting, it ter- minates iu Loch Lochfour, On the ground which separates the two lochs may be traced the vestiges of a Roman encampment, called by Ptole- my Banatia — and the foundations of an old keep named Castle Spiritual. 1. Lochend Inn is nearly opposite Aldourie. I On rt. is Aldourie, the seat of Col. j Fraser Tytler. In this house was I born, 1765, Sir James Mackintosh. On 1. Dochfour House (Evan Baillie, Esq.), a modern Italian mansion. To this succeeds rt. Ness Castle (Lord Saltoun), soon after passing which the steamer arrives at the t Midrtovm, 6 pair of Locks {Inn : Muirtown, fair), the resting and starting place of the Caledonian Canal steamers, where omnibuses are in readiness to convey passengers to 1^ m. Inverness. {Hotels : Railway, Caledonian, good ; Union.) Rte. 64. SECTION lY. Fife— St. Andrews — Kinross — Clackmannan — Par-Aof Pehthsiiire — Perth — Dunkeld — Dundee — Forfar, etc. INTRODUCTION. 1. General Information. § 2. Objects of Interest. ROUTES. 40- Edinburgli to Dundee, by Burntisland, Cupar, and St. Andrews .... 256 40a Edinburgh to Perth, by Burntisland Ferry, Mark- inch, Ladyhank, Abernethy, 2in& Bridge of Earn . .265 41 Edinburgh to Dunfermline, and Stirling, by Thornton Junction .... 267 42 Stirling to Kinross & Perth, by \Alvd\ Alloa, Dollar, Castle Camplell, Rumhling Bridge, Kinross (Eail), and Cauldron Linn [Glenfarg] 269 43 Stirling to Perth, by Crief Junction and Auchterarder 274 44 Callander to Dunkeld, by Lochcarnhcad, Killin (Rail), Kenmore, Tay- mouth, and Aherfeldy . 278 45 Stirling or Perth to Loch- earnhead, by Crie.f (Rail), Coriirie, and St. Fil- lans 284 45a Crieff to Aberfeldy or Dun- keld, by Amulree and the Small Glen . . .288 46 Taymouth (Kenmore) to In- veroran, by Fortingal and Glenlyon . ' . .289 47 Kenmore to King's House (Glencoe), by Kinloch-Itan- noch. For Pedestrians . 290 48 Perth to Forres and Inver- ness, by Dunkeld, Killie- crankie, Blair-Athole, Kin- cfussie, and Grantown (Rail) . . . .292 49 Perth to Dundee and Ar- broath (Rail) . . .303 § 1. General Information. The country included in this division would be more explored by travellers if its numerous attractions were better known. Fife and Kinross, besides being counties of the highest agricultural cultivation (Howe of Fife), are full of picturesque beauty, and abound in fine seats and parks — Donibristle, Raith, Wemyss C, Balcarres, Leslie House, Broomhall, Dysart H. The country bordering on the estuaries of the Forth and Tay commands most inviting prospects. It has hills of respectable height, such as the Ochill range, the Sidlaw Hills, stretching along the Carse of Gowrie from Perth to Forfar, and the 254 § 2. Ohjeds of Interest Sect. IY. crroiip of the Tivo Lomonds in Fife, not comparable with those of the Highlands, yet they enclose glens and gorges of romantic beauty. Such are the Pass of Glenfarg, the Dens of Airlie, of Finella near Bervie, and the Burn at Kincardine, and the valley of the Devon — Burns's " crystal Devon, winding Devon." The rolling round-backed Ochill hills giv^ little indication at a distance of the deep gorges and narrow chasms, threaded by bright burns and waterfalls, which in- tersect them — such as those of Rumbling Bridge, Castle Camp- bell, and Glen Alva — all easily reached from Stirling, These fine glens are a prelude to the magnificent scenery of Perthshire — a grand county, extending from the fertile Carse of Gowrie and Strath Earn to the mountain passes of Dunkeld and Killiecrankie, and the incomparable upper valley of the Earn from Crieff to Loch Earn — scarcely to be surpassed in Scotland. Here the traveller has the full enjoyment of the finest Highland scenery, in the midst of mountains such as Ben Voirlich, Ben More, Ben Lawers, and Schiehallion. Convenient Railways now" carry the tourist into the centre of this fine scenery, from Perth by Dunkeld to Blair- x4.thole and Strathspey, and from Callander to Loch Earn and the borders of Loch Tay. Perthshire includes those noble parks and seats, Dunkeld, Tay- mouth, Drummond Castle, Menzies, Ochtertyre, Dunira, Rossie, Kinfauns, Dupplin, Scone, etc. The great towns are — Perth, chiefly remarkable for its pretty situation, and Dundee for its great commerce and thriving manufac- tures. The historic sights and antiquities of the district include Dun- fermline Abbey, Falkland Palace, the decayed city of St. Andrews (which may also be styled a Gothic Pompeii from the number of its ruins). Castle Campbell, on the shoulder of the Ochills, with its romantic gorges, Lochleven Castle, a fragment of shapeless wall, which yet attracts pilgrims for the sake of Queen Mary ; the Gothic churches of Arbroath, Dunkeld, etc. There is no lack of good accommodation for travellers in the inns of Crieff, St. Fillans, Lochearnhead, Killin, Taymouth, Dun- keld, Dollar, Kinross, Rumbling Bridge, Pitlochrie, Blair- Athole, etc. § 2. Objects of Interest. Burntisland. — Aberdour Church and Castle ; Donibristle. Kirkcaldy. — Raith ; Ravenscraig. Dysart. — Old Houses ; Church ; Caves ; Stehorane. Falkland. — Palace ; Lomond Hills. Dairsie. — Castle ; Church ; Dura Den. Introd. §2. Objects of I/itered. 255 Leuchars. — Eomanesque Chnrcli ; Earl's Hall. St. Andrews. — Cathedral ; St. Rule's Tower ; Castle ; United College of St, Salvator and St. Leonard ; Parish Church ; St. Mary's College ; Madras College ; Links and Golf Club House. Collessie. — Beaton's Tower ; Lindores Abbey. JVewb urgh. — Cross. Abernethy. — Round Tower. Bridge of Earn. — Hill of Moncrieff ; Glenfarg. Greenloaiiing. — Ardoch Camp. Crieff. — Cross ; Drumniond Castle ; Tomachastle ; Glenturrit. Forteviot. — Dupplin Castle ; Scenery of the May. Perth. — St. John's Church ; Kinnoul Hill ; Dunsiunane Hill ; Moncrieff Hill ; Kinfauns Castle ; Elcho ; Scone. Dunfermline. — Abbey ; Palace Ruins ; Terrace in the Churchyard. Alva. — Scenery of the Alva Glen. Dollar. — Castle Campbell and Glen ; Rumbling Bridge ; Cauldron Linn. Kinross. — Lochleven Castle ; St. Serf's Isle. Loch Earn. — Glen Ogle ; Braes of Balquhidder ; Loch Voil. Comrie. — Devil's Cauldron ; Melville's Monument ; St. Fillans ; Dunira ; Vale of Earn. Loch Tay. — Killin ; Finlarig Castle ; Ben Lawers. Kenmore. — Taymouth Castle and Park ; Stones at Craig Monach. Glen Lyon. — Comrie and Garth Castles ; Fortingal yew-tree ; Meggernie Castle ; Pictish Tower ; Schiehallion ; Kinloch-Rannoch. Aberfeldy. — Falls of Moness ; Cross at Dull ; Weem Craig. Glen Almond. — Trinity College ; Small Glen ; Amulree ; Inchaffray ruins. Methven. — Castle Grounds ; Trinity College ; Huntingtower Castle. Stanley. — Campsie Linn ; Stobhall. Murthly. — New and Old Castles ; Woods and Pine Trees. Dunkeld. — Bridge ; Cathedral ; Duke of Athole's grounds ; Birnam Hill ; Craig-y-Barus ; Rumbling Bridge. Pitlochrie. — Vale of Tummel ; Ben Vrackie ; Falls of Tummel ; Bridge of Garry ; the Queen's View ; Loch Tummel. Pass of Killiecranhie. — Woods of Faskally. Blair- Athole. — Castle ; Glen Tilt ; Falls of the Tilt and the Fender ; Ben-y-Gloe ; Falls of Bruar. Kingussie. — Valley of the Spey ; Loch Laggan ; Glen Roy ; Parallel Roads. Aviemore. — Woods 'of Rothiemurchus ; Loch Alvie ; Loch- an-Eilian ; View of Cairngorm ; Larig Pass. 256 Route 40. — Burntisland to Dundee. Sect. IV Bridge of Carr. — Dulsie Bridge ; the Streens. Gran town. — Castle Grant. Dunjjhait. — Altyre ; scenery of the Findhorn ; Relugas ; Loch- an-Dorb ; Castle ; Course of the Divie ; Glen Ferness. Inchture. — Eossie Priory ; Fowlis Easter Church. Dundee. — Harbour ; Old Church Tower ; Flax and Jute Mills ; View from the Law ; Tay Railway Bridge ; Broughty Castle. Arbroath. — Abbey ; Bell Rock Lighthouse ; Cliff Scenery ; Caves at Auchmithie ; Red Castle ; Red Head ; Lunan Bay, ROUTE 40. Edinburgh to Dundee, by Burnt- island, Cupar, and St. Andrews. From the Waverley Bridge station trains fun to Gvanton, where the tourist is ferried across the Firth to Burntisland. Granton has become important from being the place of departure of the London and Aberdeen steamers, as well as for the refuge it affords to large vessels in an easterly gale, thanks to the large Flcr and break- waters constructed by the D. of Buc- cleuch. The central pier, on which the traius run alongside of the steamer, projects 1700 ft., and can be ap- proached at any state of the tide. Tolerable Ferry Steamers, fur- nished with upper deck, ply 7 or 8 times a day from Granton to Burnt- island, 5 m., in 4 or f hr. The tra- veller during his passage gets a mag- nificent view of Edinburgh Castle and New Town, backed by the Cal- ton Hill and Arthur's Seat. To the rt., at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, is the island of Inchkcith, which Dr. Johnson landed on and explored with Boswell, 1773, finding "very good grass, but rather a pro- fusion of thistles." The English planted a fort and garrison here com- manding the harbour of Leith and the Firth of Forth, to the disgust of the Scotch. The French held and garrisoned it, 1565, in accordance with the Treaty of Edinburgh, and Brautome calls it "File des Che- vaux." A fort inscribed "Maria Re., 156i," was pulled down to furnish materials for the more useful Light- house, conspicuous at night by a bright revolving light far and near. At Burntisland the traveller lands in Fifeshire, one of the richest and most productive of all the Scottish counties. Its soil is fertile, and it has great wealth in coals and large manufactures, and abundant popu- lation. As a proof of its former im- portance, it may be mentioned that it contains 13 royal burghs — viz., St. Andrews, E, and W. Anstruther, Burntisland, Grail, Dysart, Inver- keithing, Kilrenny, Kinghorn, Kirk- cald}% Pittenweem, Cupar, and Dun- fermline, many of which are now mere villages. Tlie Steamers land at a convenient pier close to the Terminus of the Perth and Dundee Railway, where the train is waiting. Burntisland {Inn: Forth H.) is a Pari. Burgh (pop. 3265), and a fa- vourite watering-place with the Edinburgh people, to whom its ready access and its bracing air are gi-eat recommendations. It is pret- tily overhung by the Binn End Hills, a trap-tuff range 700 ft. in height, and there are some pleasant walks to the foot of Dunearn and the ravines amongst the hi'ls. At Fife. Route 40. — Kirkcaldy ; Dysart. 257 the E. end of the town the sea conies in far upon the land, and forms a fine and sandy beach. The views across the Forth, of Edinburgh, give interest to all this part of the Fife coast. ^ m. to the N. of the town is the ruined ch. of Kirkton, formerly the parish ch. 3 m. to the AV. (a very pretty sea- side walk) is Aherdour {i.e. month of the water) village, which has the ruins of an old ch. of Dec. date, and of a deserted castle or castel- lated mansion, a building of the 1 7th eenty. From hence Inchcolm, Avith its primitive cell or hermitage and Abbey (2 m. in a row-boat), Doni- bristle, the seat of the Earl of Moi-ay, with beautiful wooded park, and Dalgetty, can all be conveni- ently visited (Rte. 19). From Burntisland the train keeps close to the sea to 104 m. Kinghorn Stat, near which, in 1286, King Alexander III. was thrown over a precipice, by his horse stumbling, and killed. If the day is clear, the views over the op- posite coast of Haddington, embrac- ing Berwick Law and the Bass Rock, are very charming. Kot far from Kinghorn is Grange, the old resi- dence of Sir Wm. Kirkcaldy, the partisan of Mary Queen of Scots. A little to the S. of Kinghorn is the promontory of Petticur. 12 m. rt. Seafield Tower, on a rock projecting into the sea. 14 ra. Kirkcaldij Stat., the "lang toon," stretching, with the village of Pathhead, for a good 2 m. along the shore (pop. 12,422). An old religious establishment belonging to the Abbey of Dunfermline existed here, the head of which resided at a place still called "Abbot's Hill," the position of the old house being marked by a venerable yew tree which stood close by. Near here are the ruins of a tower called BaAv^earie [Scotland.] (1| m. 1.), which has Avails 7 ft. thick. In the 13th centy. Michael Scott the wizard was born, and re- sided at Balwearie. In the mountain limestone qioarries near Kirkcaldy are found many pretty minerals, calcite, steatite, augite, apophyllite, etc. Overlooking Kirkcaldy are the beautiful grounds and Avoods of JRaith (Col. Ferguson), Avhich are embellished with an artificial lake of 20 acres, and a tower commanding a magnificent view of the Forth and distant Edinburgh. The house AA'as originally built in 1694, since Avhich tAvo Avings and an inner portico have been added. Noble pine trees here. Dunnikier Den is a pleasant Avalk. In 1644 Charles I. made Kirk- caldy a free port, Avith additional privileges, and it noAv possesses a^ considerable shipping business in coals, besides some linen and flax manufactories. It was the birthplace of Adam Smith, and the house is still shoAA-n in Avhich he Avrote his "Wealth of Nations." At Path- head, on the shore, are the ruins of Eavenscraig Castle, commemorated in the tragic ballad of "Rosabelle." " Moor, moor the harge, ye gallant crew, And, gentle lady, deign to stay ! Rest thee in Castle Ravensliengh, Nor tempt the stoniiy Firth to-day." The castle Avas granted by James III. to "William Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, on his resignation of that title. It AA-as inhabited till the Re- storation, but is noAv a picturesque ruin overhanging the sea. The same family haA-e handed doAvn their name to the suburb — Sinclairtoivn (Stat.) 16 m. Dysart Stat., a dull toAvn with one or two cotton mills and chimneys, is said to derive its name (?) from " desertion," a monk- ish solitude. The upstart suburb Sinclairtown is surpassing Dysart in manufacturing industry. Adjoining m2 258 Route 40. — Thornton Junction — Leven. Sect. IV. is Dysart House {Earl of Eosslyn). To the 1. is Dunnikier House (J. T. Oswald, Esq.), and Dunnikier Law, commanding a fine view of the country, and the Firths of Tay and Forth. The old ch. of Dysart, standing close by the sea, was a venerable and stately edifice, but is now a ruin. One of the windows bears the date 1570, but a great deal of it is of a far older time. The tower is peculiar in its little staircase turret, and the decorations above the corbel gable. On the shore are several caves, the largest of which was excavated in the rock as a re- treat, or Dcmrtuvi, by St. Serf, who preached the gospel on the shores of the Firth, and had a ch. at Culross, 680-700. 1 m. to the E. are the " ^vZ Mocks,'''' where witches were burnt in foi-mer times. The rly. now tends inland to 18^ m. Thornton Jdnct. Stat, where a branch line is given off 1. to Dunfermline and Stirling (Rte. 41). [E. Branch Ely. rt. to Leven and Anstruther. On rt. (on the coast) are the vil- lages of E. and W. Wemyss, with Wemyss Castle (J. Erskine Wemyss, Esq.), built about the commence- ment of the last centy., but enlarged in the presoit. It stands upon a rock some 30 ft. above the level of the sea. Queen Mary first met Darnley at the old castle in Feb. 1565, and was married in the July following. The clitts along the shore are hollowed out with " ?/;ee'/;is," or caves, from which Wemyss gets its name. Not far off rise the ruins of Macduff's Castle. Near W. Wemyss are numerous smoky collieries. On H hill near it is the old town cross of Cupar. The line is carried down the valley of the Orr, which joins the Leven, to 4 m. Cameron Bridge Stat. 6 m. Leven Stat., a small seaport at the mouth of the Leven river, famous for its " links " or sands, which under the name of Leven, Scoonie, and Lundin Links, stretch all the way to Largo. * They are much used for the pursuit of the favourite Scottish game of golf. 8^ m. Largo Stat., or Kirkton Largo, is a considerable village, part of which, Lower Largo, is situated on the coast. It was the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk, the original of Robinson Crusoe, in 1675. His humble cottage stood about 1 m. from the kirk, but has been pulled down. In the neigh])ourhood are the romantic glen, called " Kiel's Den,'' and Durie House, with beautiful grounds, always open. On 1. is the conical hill, called Largo Law, a very conspicuous feature in all views of the Fifeshire coast, rising 1000 ft. above the sea, and commanding a fine view. Largo House is the seat of Mrs. Denliam. Linden House, 1 m., a modern mansion, includes an ancient tower. In the park are 3 Standing Stones, 14 and 16 ft. high : a 4th is gone. 12f m. Kilconqnhar Stat, (locally pronounced Kinuchar), literally "the church at the head of the fresh- water Lake," Avhich immediately adjoins the village. A little to the N. are the village of Colinsburgh, Charleton (.J. Anstruther Thomson, Esq.), Pitcorthie, and Balcarres (Sir Coutts LindsayfBt.), which has lovely grounds and views. In this old mansion of the Earls of Balcarres Lady Anne Lindsay (Barnard) wrote the ballad "Old Robin Gray." There are some fine old trees here ; Lathallau (S. Lumsdaine, Esq.), and Kilcouquhar House (Sir John Be- tliuue). 14 m. Elie (Stat) is a long straggling Fife. Pioute 40. — Markinch Junction. 259 village, connected with a western suburb called Earlsfeny. Elie House is the residence of J. Anstruther, Esq. The coast, Avhich has hitherto been for some distance sandy and rather low, now becomes rockj^ aiKl precipitous from here to St. AudreAvs, affording but slight chance of pre- servation to any unfortunate vessel which may be driven on it. E. from Jjcven are good sections on the coast of the carboniferous volcanic rocks. 16 m. aS*^. Monance (Stat), named after the patron saint. The chapel of St. Monance was built by David II., in gratitude for his recovery from a wound received at the battle of Nevill's Cross in 1346. One of the arrows stuck in his wound, and defied every attempt to get it out, until the king made a pilgrimage to St. Monance's shrine ; wlien, as he was standing wrapped up in his devotions, the arrow at once leapt out. The chapel is cruci- form, and at the intersection of chancel and transept has a short square tower, sunnounted by an oc- tagonal steeple, the little belfry windows on which give a foreign effect. The interior, which is lighted by Dec. windows with beautiful tra- cery, has a fine groined roof, and a square recess with ogee-headed com- jmrtments for sedilia. St. Monance, the patron saint, is identified by some antiquaries with St. Ninian, the founder of Whithorn in Galloway (Ete. 10). ITi ra. Pittenweem (Stat.), a poor little place, although once one of the royal burghs of Fif'eshire. 2 m. N.AV. is Balcctski& (Sii- Ealph Anstruther). The house is one of the Scoto-French mansions, and was built by Sir W. Bruce, the royal architect for Scotland. The gardens are old-fashioned, and are worth seeing for their hanging terraces and clipped hedges. The line terminates at 19 m. Anstruther Stat, a little seaport, the birthplace (17S0) of the Rev. Thomas Chalmers, D.D. Efforts have been made to improve its harbour, and £60,000 have been laid out in piers and breakwater under direction of John Hawkshaw, Esq., C.E. A coach plies between An- struther and St. Andrews. 6 miles out at sea is the Isle of May, a rocky islet, containing the ruins of a chapel, also a Lighthouse.] Proceeding N. from Thornton June, the main line crosses the Leven to 21m. Markinch Jvjtict. Stat., whence an excursion of 1 m. to the east will bring the tourist to the ruins of Bal- gonie Castle, a work of great strength, probably built in the 12th centy. The approach, through a grove of walnut-trees, is very picturesque. The ruins consist of a large court- yard, with a tower 80 ft. high, rising on the N. side. In Balgonie Ch. rests David Leslie, General of the Kirk and Estates army, who with- stood "Wallenstein at Stralsund, and was defeated by Cromwell at Dunbar. [From here a short branch of 4 m. to W. leads to Leslie (Stat.), passing 14 m. rt. Balbirnie House (J. Bal- four, Esq.). Leslie is a populous and busy place, dependent on its flax' and bleaching mills, and, like many of the Fifeshire towns, contains some interesting remains of street archi- tecture. Adjoining it is Leslie House, the fine old seat of the Countess of Rothes. Adam Smith, when a child, was kidnapped from Strathendry by gipsies, and carried into these woods. "The Green" is one of the many places where the scene of King James V.'s poem, "Christ's Kirk on the Green," is supposed to be laid. The views from the high gi-ound to the W., above the old ruins of Strathendry Castle and House (Hon. Mrs. Douglas), are exceedingly good, and embrace a large extent of coun- 260 Rte. 40. — Edinburgh to Dundee : Falkland. Sect. IV. try westward, Avith Loch Leven, and the straight channel of the Leven issuing from it. On the opposite shore is Kinross. 24 m. Falkland Road Stat, is 3 m. from Falkland. Omnibuses twice a day : or a trap may be ordered by a telegram from the Inns. Falkland {Inns, Commercial — Bruce Arms) is now a quiet village, once a royal burgh, lying at the head of the plain called ' ' The Howe of Fife." It consists chiefly of modern houses, with a modern Gothic clock or spire, and lias several spinning mills for linen. It is charmingly situated at the foot of Easter Lomond Hill, one of an important range of Fifeshire hills rising from 1100 to 1400 ft. On a raised phatform, over- looking the plain, stands the Palace of the Stuart Kings of Scotland, who resorted hither for the sake of the chase. It is entered from the street by a very picturesque gateway flanked by 2 loopholed round towers, and shows on this side a late Gothic front. This and the greater part of the ruined edifice now remaining were built by James V., who fre- quently repaired hither to hunt, as did also his daughter, Queen ]\lary, and her son, James I. It was never adapted for a place of defence, but has much of the character of one of those sunny chateaux of Touraine, Blois, Amboise, or Chambord, in which ]\Iary of Guise may have passed her youth. It dates from 1430-40. The S. wing, which turns to the main street, an elegant fa9ade of narrow mullioned windows, alone is tolerably perfect, and is in part in- habited. James V. died here of a broken heart. The fagade towards the courtyard, now a garden, (1530-40) is more Italian in character. It is di- vided by pilasters or buttresses in the form of grouped pillars, and sliows the composite design of the Renaissance period, with carved scrolls and cor- nices. The windows, divided by transoms, are flanked by medallion heads of kings and queens. The most interesting part is the Great Hall, 75 ft. long, with a flat roof of oak, ribbed and pannelled in geo- metric patterns, now sadly dilapi- dated. The castle was burned in the time of Charles II., who lived in it 10 days, 1650. The original castle was built by the Macduffs, the powerful Thanes and Earls of Fife. Their descendant, Robert Stewart, who became also Duke of Albany, here starved to death his nephew, the Duke of Rothesay, the heir to the throne. For some days the young man's life was preserved b)"^ a woman, who through a reed gave him milk from h^r own breast, but was discovered, and it is said put to death. On the attainder and exe- cution of Albany and his sons (1424), the castle became the pro- perty of the Crown {see Sir W. Scott's " Fair Maid of Perth "). The palace belongs to the Crown, but the ruins and the pretty gardens attached to them are well taken cai'e of by Col. Tyndall Bruce of Falkland, hereditary keeper. In tlie courtyard is a monu- ment with statues of two of that family. Their seat, Falkland House, a modern Gothic mansion (by Burn and Bryce, architects, 1840), on the edge of a shady glen running up into the Lomond hill, is about 1 m. W. of the town. Near Kingskettle Stat, the line passes 1. Nuthill, and crosses the Eden to 27 m. Ladybank Junct. Stat., a gi-eat rly. depot and centre, from which lines diverge N. to Perth (Rte. 40a), rt. to Cupar, St. Andrews, and Dundee, and I. to Kinross. To St. Andrews and Dundee the Railway passes through a prettily wooded country to 30 m. Springfield Stat., passing 1. Rankeillour (D. Maitland-Makgill- Fife. Route 40. — Cupar ; Dairsie ; Leuchars. 261 Cricliton, Esq.), and rt. Crawford Priory; a fine modern Gothic man- sion (Earl of Glasgow) and Eden wood (SirG. Campbell, M.P.) On the hill to the S. is the old ruined tower of Scotstarvit, once the residence of Sir John Scott, the quaint author of "The Staggering State of Scots Statesmen," 1652. [Cults Church contains a medallion by Chantrey of the father and mother of Sir David Wilkie, who was born in the vianse, which is backed by what he called "my own blue Lomonds." His first picture was Pitlessie Fair, a subject of 140 figures.] 32 m. Civpar (pronounced Coopar) Stat., the county town of Fife, a pari, burgh and one of the royal burghs of David II. {Hotels : Royal ; Tontine ; both good). Pop. 5105. Notwithstanding its antiquity it has a modern appearance, the castle having been long superseded by the Madras Academy, which is built on its site. There is, however, a slight fragment of the old Dominican mon- astery, and the parish church is of the ]5th centy., although modern- ised. The immediate neighbourhood is pretty, and adorned with pleasant villas and seats, as Eden Park, Kin- gask, Tarvit, etc. Lord -Chancellor Campbell was born here, his father having been minister of Cupar. A few miles to the N".W., on an eminence which commands a large extent of country, formerly known as The Mount, the property and patrimonial seat of Sir David Lind- say, the poet and king-at-arms, is an obelisk erected to the memory of the 4th Earl of Hopetoun. 35 i m. Dairsie Stat. The ruins of Dairsie Castle stand on an emi- nence overhanging the river Eden, which is here crossed by a bridge of 3 arches. David 11. lived here, as in a place of retreat and security during a great part of his minority ; and here, in the early part of the 17th centy.. Archbishop Spottiswoode wrote his "History of the Church in Scotland." The little Cliurch of Dairsie was built in 1621 by the same dignitary, as part of his plan for covering Scot- land with such ch. edifices and ser- vices as England has retained, and is alluded to by him "as one of the beautifulest little pieces of church work left in this unhappy country." Its style is Gothic, but of a date when all architecture was obsolete. Consequently the plan is awkwardly carried out. The windows are most primitive looking, on account of their not being divided by raised muUions, but cut out of the flat stone. The ch. had at one time a handsome rood-screen, or, as it was called, "a glorious partition-wall of timber," which the Provincial Assembly of Fife ordered to be cut down to the level of the pews. The geologist will find an inter- esting locality 2 m. from Dairsie, at Dura Den, where the old red sand- stone contains a remarkable number of fossils in a fiiir state of preserva- tion, principally consisting of fishes. The most abundant are the Holopty- chius Andersoni, an armour-plated fish, together with the Pamphractus, a fossil resembling the Ptericthys, which is also found there (P. hy- drophilus). In the neighbourhood are Kil- maron (Lady Baxter) and Balruddery (J. Edward, Esq.) 39 m. Leuchars Junct. Stal., whence the rly. to St. Andrews is given off. This little village is cele- brated amongst ecclesiologists for the most beautiful fragment of a Roman- esque church to be found in Scotland ; not so large as that at Dalmeny, but from the richness of what remains it is evident that it must have been a much handsomer building. The nave is modern. The exterior of the apse is ornamented with two 262 Route 40. — Leuchars ; Magus Moor. Sect. IV. rows of arches, separated by a string-course of tooth-moulding, the upper arches having square piers between the pillars. Above is a corbel with grotesque heads, some human and some of rams, together with the muzzled bear. The church is supposed to belong to the early part of the 12th ceuty. To the W. of the apse the decorations consist of an under arcade of interlaced arches and an upper one of arches with cable moulding. Internally the visitor should particularly notice the very rich mouldings of the arch at the entrance of the apse. 1 m. to the E. is EarVs Hall, a seat of the Bruce family, begun in 1546, and finished in 1607. It stands in a small park, surrounded by a belt of trees, and consists mainly of a square tower, with a single room on each floor. In the drawing-room is a mantel-piece, with a coat-of-arms, on which are the initials A. B. (Alexander Bruce) and E. L. (Elizabeth Lindsay), his wife. On the next floor is the hall, with ceiling painted to represent various coats-of-arms of all ages, such as "Hector Prince of Troy," "David King of Israel," " Emperor of Judea," and so forth, with others of less illustrious families, though deriv- ed probably from more authentic som-ces. The Railway to St. Andrews runs through a well cultivated district to 2 m. Guardhridge Stat. The bridge over the Eden, which below this opens into a broad creek of the sea, was originally built by Bishop "Wardlaw about 1420, and repaired by Ai'chbishop Beaton 100 years later. See the arms on the keystones and buttresses. 4 m. to the S. is Magus Moor, on which a plantation, still called "the Bishop's Wood," marks the place where Archbp. Sharpe was waylaid, dragged from his coach, and butchered in the arms of his daughter, who vainly strove to protect him, by a party of crazy Covenanters, commanded by Balfour of Burley and Hackston of Rathillet, 3d May, 1679. Five of the Bothwell Bridge prisoners were brought hither, and hung in chains as atonement ! 5 m. ^S*^. Andrews Stat, about a mile from the ruins, which stand at the E. end of the city, the station being at the W. {Inns, second-rate : Cross Keys, Market Street, and Royal, South Street.) This ancient and historic city and pari, burgh, of 6316 inhab., seat of a venerable University, stands on a rocky and exposed promontory jut- ting into the North Sea ; cheerful as a residence and watering-place, and highly interesting from its historic associations and numerous remains of ancient buildings. It consists of 3 chief streets, called North, South, and Market streets, nearly parallel, but converging towards the E. at the Cathedral, and the small pier and harbour. A stranger arriving at the Railway Station may reach the ruins of the Castle and Cathedral by crossing the Links (generally alive with players, female and male, occupied with the old Scottish game of Golf, of which St. Andrews is the headquarters), skirting the town on the rt., and passing on 1. the handsome Golf Club House, and the obelisk, called the Martyr's Memorial. At the E. extremity of the three streets, near the small harbour, within an enclosed cemetery, rise the scanty and scattered ruins of the grand Cathedral, which when perfect was no less than 358 ft. long. The only existing remains are part of the W. and E. ends, standing isolated, so as to mark its vast extent, and part of the S. nave wall. Of the intervening walls, tower, and columns, there has been a clean sweep. Although the first step in this demolition is due to Fife. Route 40. — St. Andrews : Cathedral 263 a thundering sermon of John Knox against Popery, preached in this ch., June 11, 1559, he is not responsible for its deliberate dilapidation, caused by the greed for stones to build houses and dykes in later times. The see and church of St. An- drews was founded by Angus, King of the Picts, who transferred the mother churc^h of his kingdom to the E. coast from the remote lona, and adopted St. . Andrew as the patron saint instead of St. Columba {circa 750 a.d.) Although the actual ch. was begun 1159 by Bishop Arnold, once a monk of Kelso, it was not finished or conse- crated until 1318. Less than half of the W. front is standing, but it in- cludes a picturesque, pointed, and deeply recessed central dooricay, sur- mounted by a trefoil-headed arcade, flanked by a turret still propped by a flying buttress. The nave, consisting of 12 bays, is gone, except the S. wall pierced with windows, 2 of which to the E. are round-headed, and all at least 18 ft. above the ground. Adjoining the S. transept was the Chapter Hoitsc, of which remain an arcaded wall, and part of a vestibule Avith 3 entrance arches pointed, of gi-eat elegance, now walled up. Here are preserved many old grave-stones, chiefly of 15th and 16th centys. The E. end wall stands perfect with its flanking turrets, 3 narrow windows with round heads below, and a Pointed window above rising into the gable, early Pointed, 1202-20. These ruins, now well protected and cared for, stand within the enclosure of the Old Abbey Walls, built by Prior Hepburn in the 16th centy., 20 ft. high, nearly a mile long, loopholed and flanked with turrets for defence, stretching round by the seashore, and still very perfect. The enclosure is now, as heretofore, a churchyard, and serves as a place of general resort. Within it, a little S.E. of the Cathedral, rises the small Chapel or basilica of aS'j^. Rule or Regulus, sur- mounted by a square Tower, 108 ft. high, remarkably perfect, though of rude masonry. It is a Romanesque building, erected probably between 1127-44, though a much greater an- tiquity has been claimed for it. There is a legend, in fact, that it was erected by Hergust, a Pictish monarch, in honour of St. Regulus, which would assign its date to the 4th centy. The small ch., very narrow in pro- portion to its height, 21 ft., has its chancel arch walled up, and has lost its E. apse. St. Rule (or Regulus), according to the legend, landed here in a ship which had drifted hither from Greece, without oars or sails, freighted with the precious bones of St. Andrew, who forthwith became the Patron Saint of Scotland, and attracted pilgrims from all parts, not only of that country, but of Europe. A fine view is to be had from the top of the tower ; admission on aj)- plication to the sexton. At the extremity of South-st. , near the W. end of the Cathedral, is tlie Priory Gateivay (or Pends), 3 stately Gothic vaults, finely groined. This leads into the Abbey Precinct, to the TieiuPs Barn, and the ruins of St. Leonardos College^ founded 1512. Its chapel it roofless, but contains several interesting monuments. At the time of Dr. Johnson's visit it was used as a greenhouse. The College foundation is now transferred to St. Salvator, and the two pass under the style of the United College of St. Sal- vator and St. Leonard. St. Leonard's College Hall is a modern boarding- house for students, where they have rooms and meals as at Oxford and Cambridge. On the opposite (N".) side of the Cathedral and churchyard, on a rock rising abruptly from the sea, is the Castle of the Archbishops, founded by Bishop Rodger in 1200, but wholly rebuilt by Bishop Traill in the end of the 14th centy., now an 264 Route 40. — St. Andreivs ; Castle. Sect. IV. empty shell, and not very picturesque. Isolated by a deep fosse cut in the rock, it was entered by a di'awbridge, of which the piers are standing. It consists of a gabled keep, the kitchen tower to the E. , the sea-tower to the W., and a well in the centre of the courtyard. On the 29th Ma\% 1546, Norman Leslie, son of the Earl of Kothes, slipped over the drawbridge along with some workmen employed at the time in repairs of the Castle, followed by James Melville, the young Laird of Grange, and 15 sol- diers. They killed the porter, ex- pelled the garrison, caught Cardinal Beaton as he flew up the turnpike stairs of the keep — slew him, and hung out his body from the front window in the sight of the people ; raised the drawbridge, and being reinforced by numerous followers, and well supplied with provisions, prepared to stand a siege. Among those who joined them was John Knox, who narrates that the body of Beaton was salted and buried ' ' in the boddoni of the Sea Tower, where many of Goddes children had been imprisoned befoir." The post was held for 14 months, until a French force, in 18 galleys, commanded by Leo Strozzi, Prior of Capua, assailed it by sea and land, and bringing to bear the improved appliances of Italian artillery and engineering, breached its walls with guns mounted upon the Cathedral and College tower, and in 6 days compelled it to surrender. The gar- rison, including Knox, were sent prisoners to the French King's gal- leys at Nantes. James VI. found refuge here, 1586, after his escape from the Gowrie conspirators. Crossing by narrow lanes through Market-st. , by Church-st. , into South- st., visitors emerge opposite the Post Office. Close to it is St. Marys Col- lege, which, with the united colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard, constitutes the University of St. Andrews, the oldest in Scotland, founded 1411, by Bp. Wardlaw. St. Mary's is devoted to theological teach- ing. Here is the University Library, of about 55,000 vols., including some valuable JNISS. Here are portraits of John Knox, of Lord Melville, by IVilkie, et(3. Attached to it is the residence of the Principal, and a garden in which grows Queen Mary's Thorn. On the opposite side of South-st. is the Old or Parish Kirk, an ancient building, but of no interest. It contains the heavy and elaborate marble monument of Archbishop Sharpe, on which his murder is repre- sented in a clumsy bas-relief, exe- cuted in Holland, set iip by his son. {See Magus Moor, p. 262.) Higher up in South-st. is the Madras College, an Elizabethan build- ing, erected 1833, at a cost of £1 8, 000. part of the bequest of Dr. And. Bell, a native of St. Andrews, author of the Madras or Monitorial system of education, son of a hairdresser here. It is a juvenile school, on a very large scale. The number of pupils ave- rages 900, under the charge of 10 or 14 masters. Opposite j\[adras College are the picturesque ivy-clad ruins of the S. transept of the Oiurch of the Black Friars, founded 1247 by Bishop Wishart. South-st. is terminated at its W. end by a picturesque Gateivay, the West Port, of mediaeval architecture. The geologist and lover of coast scenery will find plenty of interest along the iron-bound cliffs, within 3 or 4 m. E. of St. Andrews. The curious phenomenon of the "Rock and Spindle " is an instance of ma- rine denudation, in a veined erup- tion of trap-rock, and there are occa- sional ancient sea-beaches, as also examples of the proximity of vol- canic agglomeration to the sand- stone. The strata visible in the cliff's' at low-water are much bent and contorted. Between the castle ^.nd the harbour is St. Rules Cam — Fife. Route 40a. — Edinburgh to Perth. 265 " Where good St. Rule liis holj' lay, From, midnight to the dawn of day. Sang to the billows sound." Scott. IsTumeroiis caves occur along the coast between this and Dysart, which are believed to have sheltered the early missionaries. Conveyances. —Rail to Leuchars June. 5 m., to join the Edinburgh and Dundee Rly. ; coaches to An- struther and Crail.] [From Leuchars the rly. will event- ually be carried into Dundee by the stupendous Tay Viaduct {see Rte. 49), now in progress. Until it is completed the line skirts the solitary Tents Moor to the Tay at] 44 m. Tayport Stat., where the ^l5^ carriage has to be changed for the steam ferryboat to Droughty. To the 1. of Tayport is Scots Craig (Captn. W. H. Maitlaiid Dougal). The mouth of the Tay is of con- siderable width, and is protected on the N. by the Forfarshire hills, which run with considerable uni- formity E. and W. Looking W. the traveller obtains a view of the chimneys and buildings of Dundee, with tlie thick cloud of smoke that generally overhangs it. Close to the pier, on the Forfar- shire side, is Brottghty Castle, a single tower of the date of the 16th centy. Near it the English planted a Fort, very offensive to the Scotch, commanding the Port of Dundee and the Firth of Tay, from which the intruders were ejected 1550, only by the help of a French force under De Thermes. 45 m. Brouglity Ferry Stat, is a rapidly-increasing suburb of Dun- dee, and is pleasantly interspersed with villas and marine residences. Steamers ply across to Tayport 9 or 10 times a day, corresponding with the trains N. and S. 494 m. Dundee Stat. {Hotel: [Scotland. ] Royal, good) Rte. 49 ; (N. British), is on the Qua.v, about 300 yds. from the station for Perth (Caledonian Rly.) ; a subway connects the two stations. ROUTE 40a. Edinburgh to Perth by Burnt- island Perry, Markinch, Lady- bank, Abernethy, and Bridge of Earn. This route is the same as Rte. 40 as far as LadyhanTc Junct. Stat. , but it is not a favourite one, the ferry across the Forth making it very in- convenient and unpleasant to some people. The way by Stirling is most generally taken, as, though the actual distance travelled is longer, the time taken is not more, and all annoyance of changing carriages is saved. The main line to Perth continues in a N. W. direction, passing— 1. Kinloch House (C. Kinnear, Esq.), containing 3 paintings by Wilkie, to 294 ra. CoUessie Stat. A road on rt. leads to Monimail, 1 m., where stands Beaton's Tower, which formed part of the country residence of the Abp. of St. Andrews, and in 1560 was inhabited by Cardinal Beaton, who is represented upon the walls by the arms of the family. Adjoining it is ilelville House, the seat of the Lady Eliz. Cartwright, where are family portraits of the Leslies, and an interesting whole-length of Gus- tavus Adolphus. 33 2 m. rt. Lindorcs Abbey (close to a farmyard), founded in 1178 by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grand- son of David L, to commemorate the capture of Ptolemais, in the Holy Land. It was bestowed on Benedictine monks, and possessed one of the richest endowments in Scotland. Its remains cover a large 266 Route iO A.— Edinburgh to Pertl : Neidmrgh. Sect. IY. space of ground, but they are so fragmentary, so covered -with ivy, and so denuded of the casnigmasonr}^, that it is ahnost impossible to iden- tify any part. Jolin Knox, in the fervour of his zeal, records how he " came to Lindores, a place of black monkery ; we burned their mass-books before their faces, and reformed them. " Among those who were buried in Lindores was the Duke of Eothesay, who was starved to death by his uncle in Falkland Palace. Very near the abbey are the Loch of Lindores, and the ruined Gothic church of Abdie on its mar- gin. The railway sweeps round the Craig of Clatchard, which is crowned with a succession of high ramparts of an ancient Hill Fort ; attached to it is a walled enclosure for keeping cattle. The line joins the Tay at 34i m, Keiohurgli Stat. {Inns : George ; Commercial). The town is prettily situated, and from the rly. looks neat, and built after a modern fashion ; but it is a dirty place, of one street only. The view is very fine looking up and down the Tay, the chimneys and spires of Dundee being visible in the distance. Li the park of JMugdruni House (Hay Paterson, Esq.) is the cross of Mugdrum, from a saint named a\lag- ridin. It consists of one upright slab of granite, sculptured with figures of animals. Another cross stood about 14 m. to the S., on the slope of the Ochill Hills, overlooking Strathearn. It was called Macduff's Cros.'^, and was destroyed by a mob of fanatics in 1559, who were on their way to demolish the Abbey of Lindores. One large block of free- stone, which served as the base, alone remains : " The pedestal On which in ancient times a cross was reared, Carved witli words whicli foiled philo- logists." Scolt. The view from it over the Tay is fine. [About 9 m. E. of Newburgh are the ruins of Balmerino, founded 1229 by Ermengarde, the queen of William the Lion, for Cistercian monks from Melrose ; she was buried in the ch. Of it nothing re- mains but the roofless chapter-house and cloisters. Near it is a pretty dell. The place belongs to Fr. A. Stuart, Esq.] 37 m. Ahcrndhy Stat. This was an old Pictish capital of Scotland. It is now an irregular village, with 3 churches and a power-loom mill. It is chiefiy celebrated for its Ilomul Toiver, the only monument of its early greatness. It is 74 ft. in height and 48 in circumference at bottom, tapering, towards the top, to 32 ft. At present it contains the clock and bell. Ohs. — The door and window openings, and its very per- fect even masonry, resembling that of St. Rule at St. Andrews. It may date from the lltli or early part of the 12th centy. About 6 ft. from from the ground, the "jougs,"an iron collar, is fastened in the wall. It was used to confine prisoners before taking them to jail, but that purpose is now answered by an iron cage attached to the foot of the Tower. The name jougs was derived from an old Celtic word, which was the parent of the Latin "jugum, " and is in all probability the "jug" that in thieves' slang signifies "prison." 41 m. Bridge of Earn Stat., at the point where the old Edinburgh road crosses the river, at the foot of Moncrieff" Hill. It consists of the Inn (Moncrieff" Arms), and a group of lodging-houses, generally occupied by visitors to the neighbouring ilineral Springs of Pitcaithley, which are about 1 m. to the W. 1 m. is Kilgraston House (C. T. C. Grant, Fife. Route 41. — Edinburgh to Dunfermline. 267 Esq.), a modern mansion in red stone, with park and gardens, the cradle of the brothers the late Gen. Sir Hope Grant, and Sir Francis, President of the R. Academy. The interior contains some good paint- ings by S. Rosa, L. da Vinci, Spag- noletto, and others. Pleasant excursions to the top of Moiicrieff Hill, by permission of the owner of Moncrietf House, whose woods extend to the summit, in- cluding noble old trees and a pro- mising collection of new conifers. It is ^ an hour's walk to the top (see Perth, Rte. 43). The views over Earn and Tay are superb, h. To Glenfarg (Rte. 42). 424. Crossing the Earn river, the rly. joins the Stirling and Perth line. After passing Moncrieff Hill, in a tunnel 1^ m. long, the tourist sud- denly discovers Perth, surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, such as Moncrieff Hill and the Kinnoul Hills, beyond which the Carse of Gowrie stretches away towards the 464 m. Perth Junct. Stat. (Rte. 43). {Inns: British, close to the stat, ; Royal George, near the Tay Bridge; Salutation, South-st.) ROUTE 41. Edinburgh to Dunfermline, Kin- ross, and Stirling, by Thornton Junction. The direct distance from Edin- burgh to Dunfermline is 17 m. by Queensferr}% where the rly, stops ; the remaining 6 m. of hilly road, after crossing the ferry, must be travelled in coach or a private con- veyance {see Rte. 14) until the rly. now in course of formation, is com- pleted. By the present Route the traveller crosses the Firth from Granton to Burntisland, and takes the train to J Tlwrnton Junct. Stat. (Rte. 40). The line, a branch from the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Rly. , here strikes otf to the 1., up the val- ley of the Orr, passing through an uninteresting country, principally inhabited by a manufacturing com- munity. 5 m. Cardenden Stat., to the N. of which is the village of Auchter- derran. 11 m. Lochgelhj Stat. {Inn: Minto Arms) ; on the Orr. 10 m, Cowdenbeath Junct : col- lieries and iron forges. [Hence another short line of 8 m, runs N. to Lochleven and Kinross, passing 5 m. Blair- Adam, the seat of "VV. P. Adam, Esq. , jSI.P., a frequent resort of Sir AValter Scott in the lifetime of his friend Chief-Commissioner Adam. The plot of "The Abbot " was concocted here, and many scenes in the beautiful grounds, "the Kiery Craggs," etc., are described in the novel. The castle of Lochleven is a conspicuous object from them. Near at hand is the Kirk of Cleish (botham). The scenery is picturesque, as the rly. crosses a gap between the Cleish Hills (1.) and Benarty Hill (rt.), and then skirts the shores of Lochleven to Kin- ross. Lochleven Stat. (Rte. 42). Dunfermline, Railway.'] country, to 13 m. Halheath, or Hill of Beath, a conical eminence to rt. of the line, 15 m. Dunfermline Stat. {Inns : Commercial, near the stat. ; Royal ; neither particularly good.) Though a Pari. Burgh and a place of some importance, both as regards the number of inhabit. (14,95») and the produce of its manufactories, Avhich consist chiefly of diapers and line table-linen, it is a poor-looking and ill-built town, occupying the slope^i 268 Route 4 1 . — DunfermTine ; A hhey. Sect. IV and summit of a steep hill, its only distinguishing feature being its church, ruined Abbey, and Castle. Among modern structures the St. Leonards Works is the handsom- est though not the largest of the power-loom Aveaving-mills. The Palace was long the residence of the Scottish kings. " The king sits in Dunfermline tower Drinking the blude-red wine ; Where sail I find a skeely skipper Will sail this ship o' mine ? " Ballad of Sir ^Patrick Speiis. The scanty ruins of the Royal Palace, now property of the Crown, stand on a projecting rock above the wooded glen of Pittencrief (seat of J. Hunt, Esq.), traversed by the winding burn from which is derived the name Dunfermline, i.e., castle of the winding stream. It was built by Malcolm Canmore. In it were born Maud, wife of Henry I. of England, and her brothers (after- wards kings) Edgar, Alexander, and David II., father of Robert Bruce. King Edward I., in his second in- vasion of Scotland, 1303, held his Court here, and at that time the Castle was burned, it is supposed by accident. It was rebuilt by James IV., 1500. Mary Queen of Scots lived here in 1561. Her son, James VI., sub- scribed the Covenant here ; and here his children, Charles I. and Princess Elizabeth, were born. Charles II. also inhabited the palace before his march to Worcester, and was forced by the Covenanters to sign "the terrible act " known as the Ikinferm- line Declaration, in which his parents are condemned in sufficiently strong language. The high road from Queensferry ascends between the Castle and the Abbey ruins, and these last are ap- proached through a massive Gothic vaulted Gatevjay. The Abbey, "The Westminster of Scotland," was founded by the Saint-Queen Maigaret, sister of the refugee Prince Edgar Atheling, and her husband Malcolm, 1070-93, for Benedictine monks from Canter- bury. Of their church nothing re- mains. A second church was partly replaced by an elegant pointed choir and transepts, added 1250, but ruined by the Reformers, and finally swept away, 1818, to make room for the tasteless edifice, con- structed in entire ignorance of the true principles of Gothic, which at present serves as Parish Church. In the space between the 2 easternmost piers, where the high altar stood, Robert Bruce was buried, and a blue marble slab at the E. end is said to mark the grave of Queen ]\Iargaret. The balustrade of the tower is wrought into the words, " King Robert the Bruce ! ! ! " Most fortunately there has been preserved of the second eh. the nave and western portion, date 1150, of pure and simple Romanesque. It is externally somewhat marred by the great size and massiveness of the buttresses, added in the 16th cent. On each side of the round-headed W. doorway rises a narrow square tower, lighted with windows of Dec, date. The N. aisle is entered by a porch. The inner doorway is very rich Romanesque, presenting a. con- trast to the groined roof, which is of later date. The Romanesque nave, 106 ft. long and 54 ft. high, is supported by tall cylinder piers and round arches, forming 5 bays. Some of the piers are grooved in zig- zags and sjjirals, not unlike those of Durham. The arch next to the door was rebuilt by James VI., in the early pointed style. This impres- sive nave is cut off from the modern church by a hideous partition wall. Dunfermline Abbey succeeded lona as the place of sepulture of the Scottish kings. King Duncan, or Macbeth, was the last buried at lona : and Malcolm Canmore and FiFE. Routes 41, Dunfermline. — 42, Stirling to Kinross. 269 his son having been killed at Aln- wick, were moved hither in 1110. Malcolm and his queen lie at the E. end. Their sons were buried here, Kings Edgar, Alexander I., David II. ; Malcolm IV., Alexander III., and Robert the Bruce. His remains were disinterred in 1818 {see the admirable description in " Tales of a Grandfather. " They were found en- cased in 2 coverings of sheet lead, and wrapped in a shroud interwoven with threads of gold, A cast of the king's skull was taken by the Phrenological Society of Edinburgh. They were replaced in a new coiBn, and re-interred ; the pulpit now stands over the spot where they lie. In the S. triinsept is a marble monument to General Bruce, Men- tor to the Prince of Wales. Of the rest of the Abbey nothing is to be seen but the Abbey Gateway and " Fratery," or Refectory, stand- ing in the S.W. corner of the ch.- yard, the most striking portion of which is the W. window, still per- fect, of 7 lights, the upper part filled with quatrefoils. It was probably put up at the end of the 16th centy. The remains appear to date from the 14th centy. Edward I. wintered in the Abbey in 1303, and had no sooner quitted it than it was burned by his soldiers, along with the town. There is a good view of the town from the terrace in the ch.-yard. The bulky U. Presbyterian Church in Queen Anne St. was one of the earliest churches of the Secession. That movement had its origin here, and in front of this cli. is a stone statue of its chief leader, Ralph Erskine, who is buried in the Abbe}^ Ch. 3 m. from Dunfermline towards the sea is Broomhall, seat of the Earl of Elgin. In it are preserved the sword (and helmet ? ) of Robert the Bruce, and the bed of Anne of Denmark, in which Charles I. was born, brought from Dunfermline. Here are some valuable paintings, Seb. del Piomho. — A female portrait, Leon, da Vinci. — St. Sebastian. An. Caracci. — St, Francis before the Crucifix. Felasqicez. — Duke of Olivarez. Moroni. — A Blacksmith. Elzheimer. — St. Peter delivered from Prison, Rail to Stirling, 21 m. ; Kinross, 11 m. ; Thornhill Junct. (Rte, 40), 15 ; coach to Edinburgh, 16 m. Distances. — Inverkeithing, 4 m.; Queensferry, 6 m. Rail in progress. The remainder of the route to Stirling is effected by a branch of the North British, which runs partly through a colliery district. In the neighbourhood of Oakley, 4.^ m., are Inzievar (A. Smith Sligo, Esq.) and Luscar, 6 m. Eastqrange is the stat. for Culross (Rte. 15). 104 Kincardine Stat., the town being 2 m. on the 1. 12 m. Clack- manncm (Rte. 19); 14 m. Alloa; 21, Stirling (described in Rte, 18). ROUTE 42. Stirling to Kinross and Perth., by [Alva] Alloa, Dollar, Castle Campbell, Humbling Bridge, and Cauldron Linn [Glenfarg], The Devon Valley Rly. passes many scenes of beauty. This line strikes F, from Stirling Stat., cross- ing at once the Forth, touching tAvo or more of its meandering " links ; " 1. goes the line to Callander (Rte. 21). 14 m. Causeway Head Stat., at the foot of Abbey Craig ; N. of this rises Dunmyat, one of the most picturesque of the Ochill range of hills, and commanding an interesting view from its top, which may be reached by the road passing Logie 270 Eoute 4:2. — Tillicoultry ; Dollar. Sect. IV. Ch. From it may be seen the course of the Forth, its links, its tributary, the Devon, Arthur's Seat, the Gram- pians, and Airthrey Castle (Lord Abercromby). The Devon river is crossed before reaching Cambus Stat. ; rt. is Tulli- body House. [Branch Ely. to Aha, 5^ m., fol- lowing the course of the Devon by Menstrie Stat., a seat of the Avoollen cloth, tartan, etc., manufacture, and the birthplace of Gen. Sir Ralph Abercromby, 1734. 5| m. A iva Terminus {Inn : John- stone Arms), a thriving village of 4296 inhab., abounding in woollen mills, agreeably placed at the foot of the Ochill Hills, which are penetrated by very picturesque glens. 1| m. E,, on an eminence, is Alva House (J. Johnstone, Esq.), built in the reign of Cliarles I., though much altered subsequently. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and are re- markable for their fountains and terraces. A remarkably fine avenue of oaks leads from the house to the ch., and behind the village is the exceedingly pretty Glen Alva, called the "Silver Glen," from the silver- mines that used to be worked here. The family of Johnstone obtained the estate of Alva by purchase from the Erskines, Earls of Mar. The ascent of Ben CI each, the highest of the Ochills, may be made in 34 hrs. from Alva, following the horse-path to Blackford, The view from the top is most extensive, and | has been excellently engraved in Knipe's Panorama, from a drawing by ; the Ordnance Survey officers, pub- lished at Stirling. TillicouHry Stat., on the Devon ; here are mills for the manufactur- ing of tartans and other woollen stuffs. By following the glen into the mountains, the pedesti'ian will come to some romantic little falls and charming scenery. Tillicoultry House, to the IS", of the village, is the seat of E. Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. ' ' The whole of this part of the country is one continued scene of beauty, rendering this portion of Clackmannan one of the most delicious of Scotland. From the gates of Muckhart, along the foot of the Ochills, is a ride exceeded in beauty by very few lines in Scot- land of equal length ; singular too as it is beautiful, bounded on one hand by a lofty and continuous wall of green, cultivated, and wooded mountains, and on the other looking over a wide and open expanse of country which dazzles the eye by its richness." — Maccidloch. Between Tillicoultry and Dollar 1., is Har-sneston (James Orr, Esq.), " on Devon's banks," celebrated by Burns, and " Tait's Tomb," the family burial-place of the Archbp. of Canterbury, whose father built Harvieston. 12 m. Dollar Stnt. {Inn : *Castle Campbell, comfortable). The origin of this name is " Dal-ard," the steep valley. It is a very pretty Swiss-look- ing little village, celebrated for a large Academy, a building in the Doric style, founded by the muni- ficent bequest of John M'Nab of Stepney, who left his native place a poor bo}^, and afterwards realised a large fortune in the West Indies. Dollar is traversed by the Dollar brook, and it is a truly delightful walk to follow up that stream, con- stantly ascending through a wooded glen, 1 m., to the ruins of * Castle Camjybell, which stands on a project- ing buttress of the mountain, iso- lated by deep gorges on either side, meeting together \ m. below the fortress. In ascending it is desir- able to follow the rt. hand or E. gorge, up which the path winds un- til it reaches the gate in the rear of the castle. After exploring it, and, Scotland. Route i2. — Castle Camplell ; Rumbling Bridge. 271 if time allows, ascending to tlie point of view about 300 yards behind it, the traveller may return by tlie other path, plunging into the deep wooded dell, having the castle on his left. This in a short distance narrows into a most extraordinary and romantic chasm — a mere chink split in the mountain side, in places not 2 yards apart, between walls of bare rock 200 ft. high. The tumbling tor- rent occupies nearly the whole space below, and the gorge would be in- accessible to human foot were it not that the rock path is eked out by many bridges and platforms of wood clamped Avith iron stanchions against the vertical rock. These have been made at the expense of the good people of Dollar, who have thus laid open to strangers a scene unequalled of its kind in Britain, and nearly resembling the famous Goi-ge of Pfcjfers in Switzerland, though on a smaller scale. To return to the Castle. It is a buikiing of much interest from its romantic and commanding position, and its ancient strength and good preservation. It is approached through an outer court or Barme- kin, and, as usual, its chief feature is a square keep tower, probably of 12th centy., to which a more mo- dern wing, with an open arcade, is attached. On the first floor of the tower was the great hall, with a remarkable cradle roof of stone, ribbed. Adjoining it is the ])it or dungeon, entered by a trap-door in its floor. From the top of the tower is a splendid view, extending to the winding Forth, Clackmannan Tower, and the Pentlands. The origin of this castle, or how it came into the hands of the Argyle family, is unknown, but it was origi- nally called the Castle of Gloom, situated in the parish of Dolour, sur- roiinded by the Glen of Care, and watered by the rivers of Sorrow. In 4189 the first Earl of Argyle obtained an Act of Parliament to change its name to Castle Campbell. In 1556 John Knox preached here a short time prior to his going to Geneva, and in the next centy. Montrose, on his way to Kilsytli, sacked and burnt it in revenge for the destruction of Airlie, and it has never since been inhabited save by a keeper, who is a very intelligent guide. It re- mained in the possession of the Ar- gyle family from 1465 to 1S05, when it Avas sold to Crauford Tait, Esq. It now belongs to James Orr, Esq. From Dollar the ascent of Ben Cleuch, one of the liighest of the. Ochills, is a walk of 5 m. passing Castle Campbell]. Beyond Dollar, 3 m., the rly. is carried over the Gairnie, on a, viadiict of 6 arches, 110 ft. high, and over the Devon on a second long viaduct. Humbling Bridge Stat, is only 200 yards from the bridge over the Devon, so called on account of the roar of the torrent passing under it, and about 300 yanls from the com- fortable Inn, through whose grounds access is obtained to the very re- markable and picturesque scenes which the Devon here presents. •The river runs for nearly a mile through a dark rocky chasm, whose sides, 100 to 200 ft. high, are vertical, if not overhanging. In places, how- ever, the channel is so tortuous and broken by sudden descents that the river writhes and twists, burrowing and undermining so as to be lost to view. In others it whirls round and round, for ever carrying loose stones along with it, which hollow out the rock into cau\lrons, and f)olish the sides quite smooth. The small fall near the Inn is called the DcviVs Mill, because it grinds and inimbles like a mill, and never minds Sun- day. This gorge or chasm is groAm over with trees, which root in all the crannies of the rocks, and form a most picturesque contrast with Route 42. — Kinross ; Lochleven. Sect. IV. their green foliage to the grey- rocks. Paths and steps give access to the best points of view. The most striking scene is the Bridge itself, Avhich, like the Pont du Diable on the Pass of St. Gothard, is double, consisting of an older narrow arch built by a local mason, 1713, surmounted by a more modern and loftier one 70 ft. above stream. The views through the 2 arches athwart the foliage is very striking, and there is much here to attract the artist. A pleasant footpath along the 1. bank of the Devon leads down the valley 2 m. from the Bridge to the Cauldron Linn, where the whole body of water, descends in two falls through a deep gap between vertical clilfs. The walk to this spot is exceedingly beautiful ; and when the river is full the cascade is well worth seeing. Access to it on the rt. is gained through the grounds of Blairhill (A. Haig, Esq.), from whom permission must be ob- tained. Ih m. to S. of Rumbling Bridge is Aklie, the seat of the JNlercers of Aldie, now represented by the Dowa- ger Marchioness of Lansdowne. 1^ m. Crook of Devon Stat., so called from the abrupt bend which the Devon river makes in its descent from Sheriffmuir at the base of the Ochill Hills. Near it is Tullibole Castle, the residence of the Rev. Sir H. W. Moncreiff, Bt. Thence through a well cultivated country, bounded on 1. by hills. Kinross Jund. Stat. [Here a branch riy. turns S. by Kinross to Dunfermline by Cowdenbeath Junct. (Rte. 41.)] 7 m. Kinross, for Lochleven Stat., close to the Lake, the mills, and the boats. Lniis : Kirkland's, best, and well managed ; Bridge House, near the lake. Kpiscopal Ch., a neat Gothic building on outskirts of the town. Kinross is the capital of the county of the same name. The whole of this district, including the 3 counties of Kinross, Fife, and Clackmannan, used to be called the Ross {i.e. the peninsula), and Kinross means the "head of the peninsula ;." just as Culross on the Firth of Forth means the "bottom of the penin- sula," and so on. The town was once noted for its cutlery, but its manufaiiture now is that of coarse linen and woollen goods. There are several large Mills on the loch side, close to the raihvay stat., 4 m. from the centre of the town. A wide turfed avenue leads from the town to Kinross House (Sir Graham Mont- gomery, Bt.), on the lake shore, now uninhabited. It was built by Sir William Bruce, architect of Holy- rood. Kinross stands on the W. side of Lochleven. Twenty boats are kept for hire; charges for visiting island and castle, 5s. ; for iishing, 2s. 6d. an hour ; boatman's fee. Is. an hour. Lochleven is a sheet of water 9 m. in circuit, famed for its Cattle and its pink Trout. On its S. shore rises the picturesque hill of Ben Arthey. There are several islands, on one of Avhich, nearest the town, \ m. from the shore (about 20 minutes to row), is Lochleven Castle, a for- tress of considerable antiquity, be- longing to the Douglas family. Here Queen Mary Avas imprisoned after her surrender at Carberry Hill, 1567, and remained 11 months in the custody of Lady Douglas of Loch- leven, a woman adapted by temper, and still more by circumstances, for a gaoler, having been the mistress (she said Avife) of James V., and mother of the Earl of Murray, AA*ho, if legitimate, Avould have been King of Scotland. A picturesque object at a distance, the castle on a nearer approach is seen to be a rough square Peel ToAver, standing in a court, sur- rounded by a rampart wall, which Kinross. lioute 42. — Lochleven : Castle. 273 once included various offices now pulled down. The tower was entered at a round-headed low door half- way up the Avail by a draw-stair or platform. It consisted of two vaulted chambers, below a store- house and kitchen, with trap-doors in the floors, and above three storeys, of which the wooden floors are gone. In this tower dwelt Lady Douglas. Her prisoner was secured in a de- tatched round turret, in the angle of the rampart, where she occupied a room only 15 ft. in diameter, furnished with a fireplace and one window, and entered by a corkscrew- stair from the courtyard. Within these walls, on the 23d July, 1567, by persuasion or compulsion of the Earl of Lindsay and Melville, Queen Mary signed a deed of Abdication of the crown in favour of her son, and another appointing her brother, Mur- ray, Regent. Only a month before the discovery and publication of her secret correspondence with Bothwell, found in the famous "Casket," had occurred. Many attempts were made by Mary's friends for her deliverance, but in vain. She was more suc- cessful with her personal fascina- tions, by which she succeeded in captivating the heart of George Douglas, the son of her gaoler, whose devotion to her caused him to be expelled the castle. He left behind, however, a confederate, Willie Doug- las, a boy of 18, who on the night of the 2d May, 1568, while the inmates of the castle were at prayers, secured the keys, placed the queen in a boat belonging to the castle, having locked the gates behind him, threw the keys overboard, and conveyed her to the mainland, where she was re- ceived by Lord Seton, George Douglas, and Sir James Hamilton, and taken to Niddry Castle. Confined and rough as these ruined walls are, an indescribable interest at- taches to them, when we think of the illustrious and interesting prisoner who sighed beneath that roof, who trod those very stone steps, who sat on that stone seat, and peered long- ingly day after day through that contracted window. Owing to the recent drainage of the lake, by which 1400 acres of land have been added to its margin, the area of the island has been enlarged, and boats can no longer land, as in Mary's time, close under the castle ' walls. Queen Mary's escape forms one of the principal scenes in Sir W. Scott's "Abbot." On the 15th of the same month (May) Mary was defeated at Langside by her brother, and fled to England. Upon St. Serfs Isle are the niins of an old priory, said to have been founded for the Culdees, by Eocha, King of the Picts. David I. trans- ferred the building and property to Augustinian canons, and ordered the Culdees to conform to the rules of that order, or to leave the priory. AndreAv Wynton, one of the earliest of the Scotch annalists, was prior of this place. 5 m. from Kinross, on the E. shore of the lake, is the village of Kin- neswood, the birthplace of Michael Bruce the poet, author of the " Ode to the Cuckoo," commonly attributed to Logan. Eail to Rumbling Bridge, 7 m. ; also to Ladybank, 16 m. (for Perth) to Dunfermline. Distances. — Dollar, 11m.; Milna- thort, 1* ; Perth, by Glenfarg, 17 ; Dunfermline, 11. The PJy. from Kinross to Lady- hank Junct., 16 m., enjoys partial glimpses of Lochleven. Milnathort Stat. A large power- loom mill here. [The old road to Perth here branches off to the 1. and runs through the truly beautiful 274 Route 43. — Stirling to Perth : Ardoch, Sect. IV. Glenfarg, a defile in the Oehills, owing much of its beauty to the picturesque form of the porphyry hills which bound it, descending into the vale of Earn at the Ijridge of Earn, The old Edinburgh road threaded the windings of this pass : a still older road traversed the hill- top to the point from which Sir "Walter Scott's description of Perth, in "The Fair Maid of Perth," was taken, viz. "the Wicks of Baiglie." The mineralogist may find scmie good specimens of minerals, includ- ing that known as " Staurolite," in Ghnfarri, where the rock is being quarried for I'oad-metal. About halfway up the glen is Balmanno, one of the most perfect examples of the old Scottish mansion. Close by it is the pretty waterfall of Dron, a noted place for the breeding of water-ousels, the nests of which are placed between the waterfall and the rock, so as to be almost in- accessible. There is a charming Avalk, turning off to the 1. at Dron, and following the road to Forteviot] The rly. is then carried up the Vale of the Eden, through a some- what uninteresting country, to Strathmiglo Stat., at the back of the Lomond Hills ; 4 in. from Falk- land, Anchtcrmuchtii Stat. The view on the rt., however, is relieved from monotony by the escarpments of the Lomond Hills, which rise to between 1700 and 1800 ft. Ladybank Jdnct. (Ete. 40). Perth Junct. Stat. (Ete. 43). ROUTE 43. Stirling to Perth, by Crieff Junction and Auchterarder. The line from Stirling to Dun- blane, 54 m., is given in Rte. 21. Here the Rly. to Callander (and the Trossachs) branches 1. (Rte. 21, p. 176). [To the rt. 3 m., and nearly equi- distant from Dunblane and Kinbvck Stations is Sherijf'muir, celebrated for the undecided battle fought there in 1715, between the Earl of Mar, who commanded the Pretender's forces, and the Duke of Argyll, at the head of the royal troops, which were inferior in number. Mar's object was to cross the Forth and join his friends in the S., and to prevent this, Argyll gave him battle. The rt. wing on each side was com- pletely victorious, and pushed its successes so far as not to have noticed til at its left was irretrievably routed. Both sides claimed the victory, but the fruits of it were with Argyll, for the Earl retreated. This was the battle of which Burns wrote — " There's some, say that we wan, And some say that they Avan, And some say tliat nane wan at a', man ; Bnt of one thing I'm sure. That at SheriHmuir, A battle there was, which I saw, man ; And we ran, and they ran. And they ran, and we ran, And we ran, and they ran awa' man." The Battle Stone upon which the Highlanders are said to have sharpened their dirks before the action, as well as the mound where the slain were buried, are still to be seen.] The rly. from Dunblane keeps to the X.E., up the valley of the Allan, which is fed by several minor streams rising in the Braes of Doune. 11 m. Greenloaning Stat. There is a fine glen on the 1., leading in 24 m. to I5 m. Ardoch Hotise (Geo. Home Drummond, Esq.), in whose park the archaeologist will find the most per- fect Roman cam}) in Great Britain, a series of green turfed banks and ditches, one within the other, arranged in the form of squares. The space within one set of entrench- Perthshire. Route iZ. — Stirling to Perth : Ardoch. 275 ments is oblong, and measures 420 ft. by 375, with its 4 sides nearly facing the cardinal points of the compass. The prffitoriuni is a regular square of 60 ft. in the centre of the camp, and stands upon slightly rising ground. Upon the X. side of this, the smallest camp, is the Procastrum, 1060 ft. by 900, where the baggage was placed ; and N.AV. of that is the Great Camp, 2800 ft. by 1950, which is considered to have been able to contain 26,000 men. The form of this camp is ob- long, but not a regular parallelogram. Gen. Wade's road enters it by its S. gate, and has thus destroyed part of the vallum. The N. gate is a little E. of the road, and covered by a straight traverse, and another gate on the W. is protected in a similar manner. The 3d stauds on trhe W. of the great one, apparently within it, its ramparts crossing those of the larger one, which was evidently the older, and seems by its superior state of preservation to have been occupied at a subsequent period, when a part of the original force Avas with- drawn. It is probable that they were all constructed by Agricola. A covered way is supposed to have led to Camps Castle, about 1 m. far- ther N., on the road to Crieff. In the neighbourhood of Ardoch are Braco Castle (G, Kellie M 'Galium, Esq.). 15.^ m. BlacJcford Stat., to the 1. of which is Orchil House, and rt. Gleneagles (Earl of Camperdown), a modern mansion at the mouth of a fine pass leading through the Ochills. The village (on rt.) is devoted to shoemaking. 18 m. Crieff Juxct. A branch is given off 1. to Crieft', 8i m. (Ete. 45.) Between Crieff Junction and 20 m. Auchterarder Stat., the line passes rt. the remains of Ogilvy Castle, once a place of great strength. On 1. is a fine view of the Perthshire, ranges (Grampians). Auditerarder, a town full of weavers, a street a mile long. Pop. 4000 (1.), is of little importance in itself, but was of considerable notoriety as the scene of the events which led to the disruption of the Scotch National Church in 1843. Auchterarder, with Dunning and other places in the neighbourhood, was burnt by the Earl of Mar in 1715, to impede the progress of the royal troops, for which compensation was promised to the sufferers in a ]>rocla- mation from the palace of Scone. In the park of Kincardine Castle (modern) is a beautiful glen 3 m. long, crossed by the railway on a viaduct. 24 m. Dunning Stat., between which and the village is Duncrub, the seat of Lord Eollo. The rly. now approaches and keeps parallel with the Earn to 26 1 m. Forteviot Stat. On Holy Hill, near the ch., are remains of a royal residence of very early times. It was the favourite summer quarters of Kenneth II., and was probably taken by him from the Pictish kings. Duncan and Macbeth spent the chief part of their time here, as did also Malcolm Canmore and his son, whose charters are dated from this place. But the acquisition and importance of the Lowlands, the' English edu- cation, and Saxon and Norman adherents of the succeeding kings made a more southerly residence de- sirable, and soon after Malcolm's reign Forteviot was allowed to go to ruin. 14 m. S. of the station is Invermay (Hon. Lady Clinton, formerly seat of the Belshes), near which the river May rushes down from the Ochills in a wild and broken stream ; in one place it is called Humble-Bumble, from the deep booming sound kept 276 Route 4:3.— Perth. Sect. IV. lip by the water between narrow walls of rock. 14 m. from the stat., on the N. side of the Earn, is Dupjylin Castle (Earl of Kinnoul), a modern house, com- pleted in 1832, its predecessor having been burnt down in 1827. Its style is Elizabethan, and the cost of its erection was £30,000. It was visited by the Queen in 1842. Dupplin was the scene of a battle, in which Edward Baliol and his English auxiliaries defeated David Bruce in a night attack in 1332. Near Forqandenny, 294 1^-5 ^^^^ Eossie (S. Oliphant, Esq.), Newton of Condie (L. Oliphant, Esq.), and Freeland (Lady Ruthven). The rly. now crosses the Earn, and, join- ing the Perth and Edinburgh Ely. , emerges through a long tunnel into Perth, near the South Inch — a wide meadow planted ^vith an avenue of trees, stretching to the Tay, and enters the well-arranged and handsome 33. i m. Perth Junct. Stat. {Inns : Pople's British H., near the Stat., good ; Royal George, George-st., near the Bridge ; Salutation, South-st.) Post Office at E. end of High-st. The city of Perth (Pop. 28,250) is charmingly situated upon the rt. bank of the Tay, and is a place of great antiquity. Considering that it is an old historic city, long a residence of Scottish kings, it may surprise a stranger that it should possess no remains of antiquity, until he calls to mind that this was the place where Knox, in 1559, preached his first sermon inciting to " the purging of churches from idolatry." The immediate pulling down of the religious houses, the Black and Grey Friars and Carthusian convents, by the hands of "the rascal multitude," as Knox styles them, Avas the conse- quence of his eloquence. There is a story that the Roman soldiers of Agi'icola, when they came in sight of the Tay and the South Inch, exclaimed " Ecce Tiberis ! ecce Campus Martins " — a compliment which Sir Walter Scott has turned as follows — "'Behold the Tiber!' the vain Roman cried, Viewing the ample Tay from Baiglie's side ; But Where's the Scot that would the vaunt repay, And hail the puny Tiber for the Tay ? " The Railway Station, one of the principal buildings, is situated at the S. W. angle of the town, and the chief streets — Victoria, South, High, and ^lill streets — run from W. to E. to- wards the Tay. The river is crossed by a bridge of 9 arches, built 1771, by Smeaton, and connecting the level plain, on which the city stands, with the Kinnoul Hills, 'the lower slopes of which are studded with villas. On the N. side of the town, near the spot where the Free "West Kirk now stands, stood the Dominican Convent, where, in 1437, James I., the Poet King, so long prisoner in Windsor Castle, and author of " The King's Quliair," was assassinated. From that time Perth ceased to be the capital of Scotland. The king's guards on this occasion were dispersed in the town, and the locks and bolts had been removed by the assassins from the doors of the monastery. On the first alarm caused by the onslaught of the conspirators on the building, Catherine Douglas, a lady of the bedchamber, thrust her arm into the socket of the bolt which barred the door. A momentary delay was caused by this slight impediment, but speedily her arm was broken and the assassins rushed in. During this pause the king had time to conceal himself in a vault under the room, into which he lowered himself by taking up a plank. The conspirators at first could not find him, and went out. In their absence the queen and the ladies tried to raise the king out of the vault again, but in the attempt Catherine Douglas Scotland. Route 43. — Perth. n i fell into tlie vault beside the king, and at this unlucky moment the con- spirators returned, and despatched both the brave lad_y and the king. I'he principal conspirator in the mur- der was the Earl of Athol, though the one who actually slew the king was Sir Robert Graham. At the extreniit}^ of South-st., facing the Tay, the County Buildings and Jail occupy the site of Gowrie House. They contain portraits of General Lord Lyndoch and Lord George Murray, etc. On this spot occurred the mj^sterious Gowrie con- spiracy, 1600, when James VI., enticed by the Earl of Gowrie and his brother, under the pretence of a disclosure of a treasure of gold, Avas seized and bound, and all but carried off in a vessel moored in the Tay close at hand, prepared to deposit him a prisoner in Fast Castle, in the hands of Logan of Restalrig. The king's cries aroused his attendants. The Gowries were slain on the spot, and he was released. The North and South Inch are two wide meadows, situated on either side of the town, and left open for the enjoyment of the inhabitants. The South Inch is by far the larger, and is surrounded and intersected by avenues of noble sycamores and other trees. On the N. Inch, occurred, 1396, the memorable combat between the clan Chattan and the clan Quhele (Kav), so admirably described in Scott's "Fair Maid of Perth." It was fought in the presence of the king by 30 champions on each side. A man was wanting on one, but his place was filled by a bandy-legged smith (Chrom Gow) of Perth, who fought well, and contributed to the victory, without knowing why or on which side he was fighting. The principal Church in the town is St. John's, between South-st. and High-st. From it Perth was often known as ^^ St. Johnston," and its war-cry was "St. John's hunt is up." It is said to have been founded in the 5th centy. Nothing of that age remains. The existing building is a cruciform ch., with a central square tower surmounted by a low spu-e. IS'o doubt the tower is very old, but the general character of the church is Dec. Its interior has been broken up into three ditferent places of worship (E., Middle, and W.), of which the W., or nave, is the oldest. Certain portions are set apart for the different guilds of the town. There is a circular arch over the entrance on the S. side. In the E. ch. is a monument to Lord Gowrie, and another to the officers of the 90th Regiment (Perthshire Light Infantry) killed before Se- bastopol. The bells are rung every day at 6 A.M. and 10 p.m. Episcopal service is performed at ^S"^. Ninian's (near the N. Inch), the cathedral ch. of the diocese, but only the choir and transept are finished. St. John's is a quiet Ej^isccrpal C%cq)cl in Princes-st., near the S. Inch. The old jail in High-st., opposite the Post Office, has an octagonal tower, supposed to have been built by Cochrane, architect to James IIL A circular Grecian temple has been erected in George-st. to the memory of E. T. Marshall, one of the most popular of provosts. It now serves as a local Muscuni, and contains a library and some pictures. There is also a monument to Sir Walter Scott at the end of High-st. ; and a statue, by Brodie, of the Prince Consort on the K'orth Inch — it is very insigni- ficant. Facing the N. Inch are the Public Schools — a group of seven, for different classes of scholars, under the management of the Town- Council. Excursions. — There is nothing so interesting at or near Perth as the ascent of Kinnoul and Moncrieff Hills and the views from their tops. a. Kiwnoul Hill, the N.W. head- land of the Sidlaw range, rises ab- 278 lloutes 43, Scone. — 44, Callander to Dunkeld. Sect. IV. ruptly from the 1. bank of the Tay, Turning rt. beyond the Bridge, a road 1. next leads up the Hill, past the Rom. Cath. Retreat, a modern Gothic building ; then by path through the wood. Looking back, Perth is displayed to gi-eat advan- tage, while from the S. brow of the hill the eye ranges over the lower course of the Tay, backed by Mon- crieff Hill. In quarries round the base of the hill agates are foimd. At the foot of the hill is Kinfauns Castle (Ld. Gray.) c. To the S. of Perth, 4 m., between the Tay and the Earn, rises Moncricff Hill, from which may be obtained the best general view of the town and country ; the beauty of its woods, and the fertile garden from which it rises, justifying Pennant's boast that it is the " glory of Scotland." The summit, 756 ft. above the sea, is ac- cessible by a carriage-road. The view extends E. to Dundee and the mouth of the Tay, N. over a vast extent of the Highland ranges beyond Dun- keld, with the city of Perth at the foot, and W. up Strathearn. Scoiu, Palace, the modern seat, on an ancient site, of Lord Mansfield, is 2J m. from Perth, but no admittance is granted except by special order. There is little left about the place, except the name, to mark its anti- quity or former importance. In the Eoyal Chapel the many Scottish kings from Kenneth II. to John Baliol, including Robert the Bruce, Robert II., James I., and Charles II., were crowned, but no memorials are left. The stone on which the Pictish kings sat at their coronation at Dun- staffnage, and which was brought hither by Kenneth II. for their suc- cessors, was carried to England by Edward I., and is now in West- minster- Abbey. On the " Moot- hill," a mound N. of the abbey, the King sat to hold Parliaments and Law Courts. In 1704 W. Murray, the illustrious Chief Justice Mans- field, was born liere, March 2. The coronation of the chevalier James Stuart here in 1716 was a mere un- fulfilled design. The abbey was sacked by the Perth mob, 1559, after Knox's sermon. An aisle belonging to the old abbey ch. is still standing. It serves as the burial chapel of the family, and contains several monu- ments. A large one of marble com- memorates a Lord Stormont. The old market-cross stands in the pleasure- grounds of the palace. In the in- terior is some old furniture and pictures, and a coverlet, said to have been worked by the hands of Queen Mary. Raihvay to Edinburgh, by Burnt- island Ferry 62 m. (Rte. 40a.) ; to Edinburgh, by Stirling (Rtes. 15 and 18) ; to Dundee, 22 m. (Rte. 49) ; to Aberdeen, by Forfar (Rte. 49) ; to Dunkeld and Inverness (Rte. 48) ; to Crietf, by Methven (Rte. 45). Distances. — Bridge of Earn, 4 ra. ; Dupplin Castle, 6 ; Methven, 74 ; Kinfauns, 3 ; Inchaffray, 13 ; Dun- keld, 15^; Aberfeldy, 32 i. ROUTE 44. Callandei to Dunkeld, by Loch- earnhead, Killin (Rail), Ken- more, Taymouth, and Aber- feldy. Callander is described in Rte. 21. Rly. to Killin — 3 trains daily in 1 hour. Coach daily thence to Dun- keld. On quitting Callander, the rly. leaves on I. the road to the Trossachs (Rte. 21), and proceeds to thread the romantic Pass of^ Leny, through which river and railway and road have barely room, wedged in between the roots of Benledi on the I., and a lower range on the rt. The beauties Scotland. Route iL — Loch Luhnaig ; BalquJddder. 279 of the Pass are hidden from the railway passenger, who crosses the brawling stream before reaching Loch Lnbnaig. The scene is de- scribed in " The Legend of Mon- trose," and in the fiery-cross scene of "The Lady of the Lake." Leny House is the seat of J. B. Hamilton, Esq. At the upper end of the pass is Loch Luhnaig, ' ' the crooked lake," from its having two arms of water at an obtuse angle to one another. The rly. is carried along the W. shore of the lake, which was previ- ously pathless, the high road passing on the opposite side. " Loch Lubnaig is rendered ut- terly unlike every other Scottish lake by the complete dissimilarity of its two boundaries — the one being fiat and open, and the other a solid wall of mountains, formed by the steep and rocky declivity of Benledi. Though long, it presents little variety, but its best landscapes are rendered very striking by their great simplicit)^, and by the profound and magnificent breadth of shade which involves the hill as it towers aloft. " — Macculloch. At the ai)ex of the lake, 54 m., is the fine bold front of Craig-na-Coilig ; and rather more than half-way up is ArdchuUarie (Sir W. Stirling-Maxwell, Bart.) ; for some time the habitation of Bruce the Abyssinian traveller, where part of his book w'as written. At the top of the lake, 8i m., is Strathyre Stat. (2 small Inns), a place of summer resort from Glasgow, whither young Norman carried the fiery signal. '* Benledi saw the cross of fire That glanced like lightning down Strathyre." On 1. a bridge crosses the river, offering a short and picturesque route for those who intend to make an excursion to Loch Voil and Bal- quhidder. 10^ m. Kinrfs House Inn, 2 m. from Strathyre, is a small house, good and clean. The train will stop at it, notice being given at the next stations. It is situate at the open- ing of the valley of Balquhidder. [2 m. up that valley is the neat village, and pretty modern ch. on a knoll commanding a lovely view of " The Braes of Balquhidder," the subject of Tannahill's pretty song, and of Loch Voil, with the orna- mental seat and woods of Stronvar (D. Carnegie, Esq.) In the well- kept ch.-yd., shaded by yews and })lanes, in front of the roofless ivy- clad old Ch., is the grave of«"Rob Roy M'Gregor." There are three stones togetiier, the one on the rt. being, as the inscription says, the gravestone of his son Colin ; that on the 1. belongs to his son Hamish, or James. It is a rough slab of slate, carved with a rude cross, on one side of it a sword, on the other a man in a kilt, bearing a shield, with a dog at his feet. On Colin's grave are the arms of the M'Gregors — viz. a pine-tree torn up by its roots, crossed by a sword piercing a crown, in allusion to the claims of royalty made by the chiefs of the clan. There is also in this burial-ground a rude old font, a stone with the sculp- tured figure of a Culdee priest. On this spot the clan M 'Gregor gathered round the head of the king's forester, which they had cut oft', and swore to protect the murderers (" Legend of iMontrose "). Balquhidder stands at the E. end of Loch Voil, a piece of water 3^ m. long, and separated very slightly from the smaller, although picturesque. Loch Doine. The oppo- site bank of Loch Voil was the scene of the escape of Rob Roy, which Sir Walter Scott has so spiritedly de- scribed. The foundation of the story is true. He had been taken prisoner by the Duke of Montrose, and was buckled on behind Graham of Gart- nafuerach : but he slipped off the 280 Route 44. — Lochearnhead ; Killin. Sect. IY. belt, took to the hillside and not to the water, and thus got away. From the bridge at the E. end of Loch Voil a fine view may be had in both directions ; embracing on the E., at a distance of 5 m., the peak of Ben V^oirlich (3180 ft.), and on the oppo- site side, though not so easily seen, that of Ben ]\lore. From the bridge a road runs 1. up the charming little valley of Glen Buckie, for about 3 m., to some farmhouses, and from it, at 2| m., branches a path to Glenfinlas and Brigg of Turk, a very beautiful walk of about 6 hours in dry weather, but one Avhich at other times had better not bS attempted. The pedestrian may also follow the road up the Braes of Balquhidder and under Ben Chroan to Inverarnan {20 m., 6 hrs. walk), or to the head of Loch Katrine at Glengyle (Rte. 21).] Rail to Killin. 12 m. rt. Edinchip, the charming seat of Sir ]\Ialcolm M'Gregor, is next passed, and rt., Edinample, an old castellated house overlooking Loch Earn, belonging to Lord Breadal- bane, situated on the Ample, which here forms a pretty cascade, not so remarkable for the quantity of water as from the singular rocky rent through which it falls, and the effects on the rocks of running water. It should be seen from below. Locliearnhead Stat. 13A m. At Lochearnhead is a thoroughly good Hotel, Avell situated at the mouth of Glen Ogle, 2 m. from the Ely. Stat., and 2^ m. from the head of Loch Earn, which is 7 m. long and 400 ft. in depth. Loch- earnhead is a good central place for excursions, a road running on either side the lake to St. Fillans, 8 m., a charming drive, disclosing at the head of the Ample glen the mountain Stuck-a-Chroan, and half- way down the grand form of Ben Voirlich rising behind the woods and mansion of Ardvoirlich (]\Iajor Stewart) ; Ben Voirlich (3180 ft.) separates the basin of Loch Earn from Glenartney {see Rte. 45). Distances. — St. Fillans, 8 m. ; Comrie, 13 m. ; Crieff, 20 ; Killin, 8 ; Dunkeld, 48 ; Callander, ISJ ; Trossachs, 24 ; Aberfeldy, 30 ; Bal- quhidder, 5 ; Glenvech Falls, 3. Baihcay to Killin, Tyndrum, and to Callander. Leaving Lochearnhead, the rail- road enters Glen Ogle, a wild rocky defile, and ascends a steep incline in deep cuttings over several via- ducts. View looking down on Loch Earn, and up to Ben Voirlich. At 16 m. is the highest point of the glen, with a small loch on 1. The mountains beyond Glen Dochart come in sight, with the summits of Ben More and Stobinhain on 1. 19 m. Kill in Stat., near Lix, 4 m. from Killin. Omnibus \h\X\iQT . Rail- way to Tyndrum. Coaches thence to Oban, Glencoe, and Ballachulish (Pvte. 34). The first view of Ben Lawers is obtained here, rising over a group of lower peaks directly in front. 22 m. Killin. {Inns : Killin Hotel ; Bridge of Lochy Hotel, 1 m. on the Taymouth road.) Kil-Fin signifies the cell of Fingal, whose grave is marked by an upright stone in a field on the 1. The Dochart here divides into two or three rapidl}"^ flowing branches, forcing their way over and between masses of bare pro- jecting rock. It is crossed by 3 bridges, and encloses 2 islands ; the lower of these, suiTounded by a belt of fine firs, is the burial-place of the M'Nabs, a clan which once owned all the surrounding district, now absorbed in the Breadalbane domain. The M 'Nabs emigrated to North America, but this cemetery still remains their Perthshire. Route i 4:. — Loch Tay ; Taymoutli. 281 possession. It was Sir Allan M'Nab, the head of this clan, who aided in repulsing American marauders from Canada, and who avenged the inva- sion of British territory by sending the rebel steamer Caroline in flames over the Falls of Niagara. On leaving Killin the road skirts the river Lochy on its way to L. Tay, and crosses it, after passing Finlarig, a picturesque ruined castle and cemetery, the cradle and the grave of the Breadalbane family, beautifully situated in some fine wood, and worth visiting. On the Lochy there are some falls, or rather rapids, 3 m. up the stream from Cameron's Inn. The sides of the river are rocky and overhung Avith trees. There is a road to Kenuiore on either side of Loch Tay ; that on the N. is 2 m. shorter, and is the one generally used by carriages. Pedes- trians should take the S. road, as by that means they get the finest views of Ben Lawers, and can also visit the waterfall of Acharn, without return- ing from Kenmore, from Avhich it is 2 m. W. Loch Tay is 15 m. long and \\ broad at the widest part. Its chief feeders are the Dochart and Lochy at its W. end, Avhile at its E. it sends forth the full-grown river Tay. Close to KUlin, on this road, is Audi-more, Lord Breadalbane. At 25 m. Edramuckie [a car road is given off to Glenlyon on 1. , cross- ing the lower slopes of Ben Lawers at a height of about 1000 ft, and running into Glenlyon at Inner- wick Inn. Distance to Innerwick, 9 m. ; Loch Rannoch, 14]. 30 m. Lawers Inn, the best point from which to ascend Ben Lawers, which is by no means difficult. " This wide-based, broad-shouldered moun- tain rises from the valley of Loch Tay on one side, and sinks into Glenlyon on the other. It thus forms a huge dome-shaped mass between 2 deep | \Scotland.'\ valle3^s. But instead of owing this form to an upward curving of the schists, it actually lies in a basin of these rocks which dip underneath the mountain on the banks of Loch Tay, and rise up again from its furtlier skirts in Glenlyon. Thus Ben Lawers is in reality formed of a trough of schists, while the valley of Loch Tay runs along the top of an anticlinal arch. Hence that wliich in geological structure is a depression, has, by denudation, be- come a great mountain, while that wliicli is an elevation has been turned into a deep valley. " — Gcikie. The summit is 3945 ft. above sea- level. Of all the mountains of Scot- land, perhaps of Britain, Ben Lawers is the richest in its botany. No- where is such abundance of alpine plants to be found. Here occur the curious Clierleria, or mossy cyphet, the fragrant Myosotis alpestris, and the Gentiana nivalis. There is a ferry from LaAvers to Ardeonaig Free Kirk and Inn, 1| m., on the other side of the loch. About 2 m. from Taymouth, on that side, are the Falls of Acharn, in a pretty glen ^ m. above a small Inn. There is a good view of Loch Tay from it. Just opposite Lawers Inn is a copper-mine. From Lawers, the road on the N. side improves. A rude stone circle is passed on the 1. At 35 m. the best view of Loch Tay is obtained. This is the widest part. On 1. is Drmnmond Hill, a fine object, densely clothed Avith a thick forest of fir, among which are some noble larch-trees. 37 m. rt. is the kitchen -garden belonging to Taymouth Castle. On 1. is Rock Lodge ; and a peep of the castle can be obtained upon the bridge over the Tay as it first emerges as a river under that name n2 28: Route 44. — Taymouth Castle. Sect. l\ from the lake. Near the shore is an island, on which are the ruins of a priory, built by Alexander I. over the grave of his wife Sibylla, daugh- ter of Henry I. of England. 38 m. Kenmore {Inn: Breadalbane Arms, good) is a neat little village at the foot of Loch Tay, consisting of a ch., hotel, and about a dozen cottages, shut out from all view of lake or park, clustered around the gate of Taymouth Castle, the noble seat of the Marquis of Breadalbane. Admission to the grounds only, with a guide, from 10 to 12, and 2 to 4 P.M. — fee, Is. each person. The walk will occupy about 1\ hr. Car- riages may be sent on to meet parties at the Fort, on the Dunkeld road. The Castle (not shown) is a large grey structure of slate, with round towers at the angles, surmounted by a central block, while 2 wings, that on S.AV. being a remnant of the old castle restored, project from the main building. There is a magnificent hall, grand staircase, library, and a suite of apartments occupied by Her Majesty and the Prince Consort on their first visit to Scotland in 1842. "The Gothic staircase is of stone, and very fine." The Castle was originally founded by Sir Colin Campbell of Glenorchy, scion of the house of Argyll, circa 1573. The present edifice, though large and stately, is but of Brumma- gem Gothic, and it stands in the bottom of the valley, but its sur- roundings are lovely. There is some magnificent timber in the park : oak, ash, beech, lime, and chestnut line the walks that lead to the house, occasionally diversified by some light and elegant larch of great height and age. On each side the Tay there is a grand beech-walk. The best view of the castle, park, and surrounding country, is to be got from the Museum and Fort, 1 m. on the Aberfeldy road. In this Museum are kept specimens of stuffed ani- mals, and a battery of guns has been placed in front for salutes. The view from this spot on a fine day is one of the most beautiful in Scotland. This is the view alluded to by the Queen's Journal in these touching words : — ' ' We got out and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away suffi- ciently to show us everything ; and then unknown, quite in private, I gazed— not without deep emotion — on the scene of our reception twenty- four years ago by dear Lord Breadal- bane, in a princely style ; not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic ettect. "Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are gone that were with us then !" — Leaves from the Journal of our Life in the Highlands, p. 15. For a short excursion from Ken- more the tourist may visit the Her- mitage and Falls of Acharn, 2 m. to the W. on the S. side of Loch Tay. The burn, passing down a dark and wooded ravine, first takes a clear leap of 40 ft., and then several smaller ones. Distances of Kenmore from — Luib, 24 m. ; Lochearnhead, 26 ; Crianlarieh, 34 ; Dunkeld, 24 ; In- verarnan, 48 ; Aberfeldy, 6 ; Lawers, 8 ; Callander, 42. Taymouth and the woods of Drum - mond should not be dismissed with- out mention of the Capercailzie {Tetrao urogallus), which was re- introduced about 1835 into Scotland from Norway, and is now tolerably plentiful in the woods. From Kenmore the road to Aber- feldy runs up hill, passing a pretty waterfall, and 40 m. the Gate of the Museum Pkrthshire. Route 44. — T ay mouth ; Aherfeldy. 283 and Fort, a private entrance to the grounds of Taymouth, by which there is no admission for the public. Within the gates are two large Standing Stones, supposed to have been the commencement of an avenue leading to Craig Monach, a triple circle ^ m. farther on, to the rt. of the Aberfeldy road. A good view is obtained on 1. of Schehal- lion. 41 J rt. Bolfracks House, the resi- dence of Lord Breadalbane's factor. 43 m. 1., on the opposite side of the river, is 3Ienzies (pron. Mengies) Castle (Sir Robert Menzies). It is a good tj^ical example of the Scot- tish mansion, 17th cent., with gables, angle-turrets, and Avails of immense thickness. The park contains timber of remarkable girth and beauty. To this place General JMackay escaped from Killiecrankie. Behind Castle Menzies rises an abrupt hill, clothed with hanging wood, called Weem Crag, ascended by shady paths of easy slope, and from its summit commanding a view of the valley of the Tay. Close to it, 1^ m. from Aberfeldy, is Wecm Inn, very com- fortable quarters. A bridge over the Tay leads to 44m. Aberfeldy Stat. {Hotel, Bread- \ albane Arms, good ; Weem Inn, be- yond the bridge) is a charmingly | situated village at the junction of the j little river Moness with the Tay. The houses are well-built with slated roofs, and the whole looks clean. The river is crossed by an old bridge of General Wade's, and in a meadow on the opposite side the Black Watch was embodied Avith the regular army as the 43d Regiment. It subsequently became the 42d. The entrance to the pretty leafy glen in which are the Falls of Moness, is opposite the hotel. They are kept under lock and key. A guide, or at least the payment of one (Is. 6d.) is enforced. The first fall is about 1 m. from the gate ; it is very pretty, but has had too much done to it. The second, though merely spouts of water over shelves of slate, is picturesque from the tortuous course of the stream, which comes wriggling down an inclined plane about 200 yards long, the vertical distance being about 200 ft. Its narrow channel is confined by lofty walls of mica slate, from whose fis- sures spring ferns and larch and mountain-ash ; but few, if any, birch now, to form a transparent canopy overhead. The third fall is 50 ft. in height, and is worth visiting more for the massive rocks and beautiful foliage than mass of water. The description of the Glen and its " Birks " by Burns is as follows : — "The braes ascend, like lofty wa's, The foaming stream, deep roaring, fa's, O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws, The Birks of Aberfeldy. The hoary clifls are crown'd wi' flowers. White o'er the linn the burnie pours. And rising, weets, wi' mistv showers, The Birks of Aberfeldy." The tourist who is walking to Tay- mouth need not return to Aberfeldy, but can strike from the third fall over the little bridge and up the wood to the brow of the hill, whence he can descend to join the Tajonouth road ; he will thus obtain a good view of Farragon. Overlooking the town is Moness House (Colonel Murray) . The tourist in search of a comprehensive and beautiful view cannot do better than ascend Farrachel Hill. Conveyances. — Coach daily by Kenmore, 6 m., to Kill in Stat., thence rail to Lochearnhead and Callander. Raihvay to Perth and Inverness. Distances. — Grandtully Castle, 6 m. ; Dunkeld, 18 ; Taymouth Castle, 6 ; Acharn Falls, 8 ; Crieff, 24 ; Pass of Killiecrankie, 174 ; 4,och Tum- 28i Route 45. — Perth to St. Fillans. Sect. IV. mel, 11 ; Loch Rannocli, 21 ; Glen- quiech, 13 ; Fortingal, 9. From Aberfeldy there is a branch raihcay of 9 m. to Ballinluig Junct. on the HighLmd Ely. It passes 6 ni. Grandtully Stat, and Castle (Sir A. D. Stewart of Murthly), from which may have been taken the description of Tullyveolan, belonging to the Baron of Bradwardine in "Waver- ley." The rly. continues down the valley of the'Tay, passing L Bal- * lechin (Major Stewart) and Pitnacree (T. Potter, Esq.) It crosses Tay and Tummel j ust above their j unction ou lattice bridges. 9 m. Ballinluig Junction, (Ete. 48.) From this it is 9 m. to Dun- keld, and 4 m. to Pitlochrie and Killiecrankie. DuNKELD Stat, {see Ete, 48), ROUTE 45. Stirling or Perth., to Lochearn- head, by Crieff (Rail), Comrie, and St. Fillans. A pleasant route ; fine scenery. See Rte, 4-3 for the road from Stir- ling to Crieff Junct. Slat., where this line separates from that to Perth, From this and the following sta- tions fine views are obtained of the distant chain of the Grampians, Ben Voirlich, Ben Ledi, and Ben Lomond, 2| m. TulUbardine Stat., adjoin- ing which is the site of TulUbardine Castle, once a seat of the earls of that name, before receiving the title of Dukes of Athole. There is a small Gothic chapel, 12th centy. On the rt. of the line Strathallan Castle, the seat of Viscount Strathallan. 5 m. Muthill Stat., the village Deing 1 m. 1. It has a Gothic church, erected in 1828, and the ruins of an old ch. In the neighbourhood is Ciddees Castle (R. T. N, Speirs, Esq.), containing a small collection of Spanish pictures. 1^ m. 1, is Drum- viond Castle (see opposite page) ; the rly. now crosses the Earn, near a Roman camp (from which an ancient Roman road stretches in a direct line to Perth), and passing 7 m. Highlandman Stat., reaches 9 m. Crieff Junct. Stat. {Inns : Drummond Arms, facing 4 grand lime trees ; Carriages for hire ; Stewart's Hotel ; the Roj-al Hotel.) Crieff (pop. 4000), is a town of no great size or importance, j^et popular as a summer resort, from the healthi- ness of its situation on the side of a hill, a little distance from the Earn, here joined by the Turrit, the purity of its air, and the fine drives, walks, and general scenery of its neighbour- hood. Strathearn, which it over- looks, is celebrated no less for its wooded slopes than its fertile plains. Near the Town Hall is a venerable Cross, carved with Runic knots, but without inscriptions — probably of the 12th centy. Here also stands the old stone Market Cross and the ivonjoiigs or pillory (see Index), There is a large HydrojMthic Esta- blishment on the outskirts, f m, from Crieff, on the Hill of Knock, a very fine point of view. In former times the Stewards of Strathearn held here their Courts of Justice on a circular mound, still existing on the Farm of Broich, ^ m. E, of CriefF. By their sentence many Highland caterans and thieves suf- fered at " the kind gallows of CriefF," on the Gallows Hill. In return for this, the Highlanders bore a grudge against the town, and burnt it in 1715, and were nearly doing the same in 1745. There is an Ejnscojml chapel here. The pleasant rides and drives around CriefF are nearly endless. For shorter walks the tourist should, without fail, climb the Knock Scotland. Pde. 45. — Crieff to Lochearn : Lhimimond Castle. 285 or Hill of Crieff, scarce a mile off, for its exquisite view. The hill of Tomachasile, 3 m. W., on the N. bank of the Earn to- wards Comrie, is approached by a charming river-path called Lady Mary's Green Walk. The summit of the hill is ornamented Avith a gi-anite monument to Sir David Baird. Between Crieff and the Knock of Crieff is Fc7'ntorucr (Lord Abercromby), in which Sir David Baird resided for many years. In the interior is the sword of Tippoo Saib, and Wilkie's picture of the finding of his body. Railways — to Stirling, Edinburgh, and Glasgow, by Criefi" Junction (Rte. 43) ; to Methven, Perth, and Dundee {see p. 287). Perhaps the most interesting object in the neighbourhood is Druvimond Castle and its beautiful Gardens, which are liberally shown to strangers. It has been, since the loth cent., the seat of that ancient and noble family the Drummonds, Earls of Perth. It now belongs to the Trs. of Lady Willoughby d'Eresby. A drive of 3 m. from Crieff, crossiug the bridge 1 m. distant, tui'ning 1. along the road to Muthill, leads to the entrance-gate, where a noble avenue of beech, surmounting a rocky ridge l.^ m. long, constantly ascending, conducts to the Castle, which, excepting an old square tower, is chiefly modern, Cromwell having battered the original. It com- mands fine views over Strathearn and the Grampian chain on the N., and contains a small armoury and interesting historic and family por- traits — James V. and VI., Charles I. and II., Q. Mary, etc. Behind, it looks down upon the most beautiful old-fashioned Garden, laid out in a series of natural ter- races formed on the rock itself, as it descends step-wise. The flower-beds are most tastefully arranged, so as to resemble a rich Persian c.xrpet, the whole set off and relieved by evergreens, box, and yew hedges, cut and carved in quaint fashion, and by fine specimens of cypress, cedars, and rare conifers. Statuary, and foun- tains, with stately staircases, give great effect to the whole. The mul- tiplex ^2«i-6?mAvas designed by John, 2d E. of Perth, who laid out the gardens 1662. At the back of the Castle the hill of Torleum rises to 1400. More distant Excursions from Crieff S. to the Roman camp at Ardoch, by Muthill ; (Rte. 43) to Monzie, and the Small Glen (Rte. 4oa) ; to Glenalmond. Crieff to Comrie 64m.; St. Fil- lans, 12 m., and Lochearnliead Stat, 20^ m., one of the most charming drives in Scotland, ought on no account to be neglected. Coaches daily, in summer. The valley of the Earn is well cultivated and richly wooded, and enlivened by the constant variety afforded by th.e sparkling and abounding river — the grey rocks alternating with the rich foliage, the grand mountains, whose tops impend over the road at everj'- turn, and the succession of country seats, all in lovely situations. Soon after leaving Crieff the river Turrit is crossed, issuing out of the Highland Glen Turrit, at whose mouth stands the house of Ochtertyre (Sir Patrick Keith Murray, Bart.), on a lovely bank, overlooking the wide-spreading Loch of Monzievaird, and backed by dark woods. A lady of this family was immortalised by Burns as "The Flower of Strath- more." The jjark is liberally open to strangers. At the head of Glen Turrit rises the grand mountain Bon Chonzie (2922 ft.) Burns WTote 286 Route 45. — Comrie ; St. Fillans. Sect. IV. some verses "On scaring some Waterfowl in Loch Tnrrit." After skirting the park for more than a mile, we pass, on the height, the monument to Sir David Baird. At Monzievaird was born Gen. Sir George Murray, the faithful lieut. of "the Duke " in Spain and at Water- loo. ; 1. Strovjan (T. J. Graham Stir- ling, Esq.) ; and nearer Comrie, Lawers, the fine seat of D, R. Wil- liamson, Esq. 6. m. Cowrie (second-rate Inn) : a long street, with 2 specially ugly churches, but prettily situated at the junction of Glenartney and Glen Led- nock w'ith the Earn Valley. The best idea of the surrounding country will be obtained by ascending Dunmore— a commanding hill, marked by the obelisk set up as a Monument to Henry Dundas of Dunira, 1st Ld. Melville. The way to it lies through the picturesque wooded Glen Led- nock, by a path commencing behind the town, running through the grounds of Dunira (Sir D. Dun- das). About \ of an hour's walk brings the tourist to the upper Falls of the Lednock, which, though not of great volume, will repay the visit of the artist and lover of nature by the picturesque gi-andeur of the remark- able chasm in the rock called the Devil's Cauldron, through which they worm their way, working out deep cauldrons in the hard rock by the friction of the stones W'hich the cur- rent forces to revolve in the bottom. A winding path is carried in zig- zags from this iip to the Melville Monument, an obelisk of boulder granite, whence the view is ex- tremely interesting and extensive. A circuitous carriage-road, 1^ m., leads to within a short distance of the Falls. For many years Comrie has been subject, from time to time, to slight shocks of earthquake, so slight, as only to cause glasses or A-essels to rattle on the shelves in the houses, accompanied by a slight rumbling sound. In October 1889, at least 70 shocks were felt, in some instances accompanied by a loud report and sulphureous smells. On the opposite (rt. ) bank of the Earn, lie Dalchonzie and Aberu- chill Castle (G. C. Dewhurst, Esq., of Manchester), behind which is a pretty wild glen. But the prettiest spot in all the valley is Dunira (Sir David Dundas, Bart.), a handsome modern mansion by Br3'ce, architect, which has succeeded the cottage to which Henry Dundas, 1st Lord ^lel- ville, the friend of William Pitt, retired, at a spot where the valley is most smiling and the mountains the grandest. The road for miles passes through an avenue. Ascending the 1. bank of the ample river, Ave pass 1. the green conical hill of Dunjillan, 600 ft. high, on the top of w^hich St. Fillan, the patron saint of Robert Bruce, used to say his prayers so assiduously that he has left the marks of his knees in the rock ! St. Fillans (Inn : *Drummond Arms : good accommodation, well placed and very comfortable : ob- liging landlord. Cars, post-horses, boats, and fishing on the lake). This pretty village stretches along the E. shore of the lake and the outlet of the river Earn, surrounded by hills and mountains (Dundearn), amidst scenery far finer than that at Lochearnhead. On the smooth green meadow opposite the inn, reached by a wooden bridge, the Highland games are held. Loch Earn is a lovely highland lake, stretching 7 m. from St. Fillans E. to Lochearnhead W. ; near the E. end is a small islet, covered with trees, and made up of stone heaps, said to be the remains of a stronghold of the Neishes, who, having committed depredations on the M'Nabs, were pursued to this retreat and extermi- nated bv that irate tribe. Perthshire. Route io.- — Lochearn : Crieff to Perth . 287 There is a good road on either side of the lake, and it is a very pleasant drive from St. F. to go by the one and return by the other. The road along the X. shore is the most level, but the other commands by far the best view. At the distance of 4 m., looking across the lake S., the House of Ardvoirlich is barely seen (Major R. Stewart), where the jMacgregors committed the atrocity of displaying to his widow in a dish the head of the Ste\^'art whom they had murdered, with a crust between the teeth. {See Scott's "Legend of Montrose.") Near Ardvoirlich, by the side of the road, stands a stone, informing the passers-by that the bodies of six Macdonalds of Glencoe lie buried there, who were killed in an attempt to " harry" Ardvoirlich. At the head of the valley, opening behind the house, rises the peak of Be7i Voirlich, 3180 ft. high. A little to the right, Ardvoirlich Cottage (Miss Stewart), a picturesque little habitation, which, along with the mansion-house, has been in the pos- session of the family for several centuries. Lochearnhead {Inn : Dayton's H. good ; is about 4 mile distant from the lake and 1^ m. from the station of the rly. from Callander to Killin (see Rte. 44.) Raihuay — Crieff to Perth, 17$ m. (4 trains), in 50 min. Ahercairney Stat., not far from the noble seat of Ch. Home Drummond Moray, Esq., a large modern Gothic mansion, with beautiful grounds. At Foul is "Wester is a carved Stone Cross and a jougs or iron pillory attached. 6 m. from Crieff are the fragment- ary ruins of Inchaffray, founded in 1200, and largely endowed by David I. and Alexander III. Maurice, the abbot of the time, attended Bruce to Bannockburn, with the arm of St. Fillan in a silver casket, a relic to which great importance was attached in those days. The Abbey was called "Insula Missarum," or the Island of the Masses ; and the ground is now the property of Lord Kinnoul. IS'ear Balgowan Stat, are Gorthy (G. E. JNIercer, Esq.), and Balgowan (W. Thomson, Esq.), the birthplace of General Graham (Lord Lynedoch), who did not enter the military pro- fession till he was 45 years old, im- pelled thereto by grief for the loss of his Avife. After going through the Peninsular war he died in 1843, at the age of 93, and was buried in Methven ch. -yard by the side of his wife, who died 50 years before him. Methven Junct. Stat. [A short branch leads to 11 m. Methven [Inn, Star), a quaint little village, near which Robert Bruce was defeated in 1306 by the English, under Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and Viceroy of Scotland. Lynedoch House was the residence of Lord Lynedoch, and is adorned with some choice trees of his planting. Dronach Haugh is the burial-place of " Bessie Bell and Mary Gray." 3 m. to the N.W. is Trinity College, situated in the prettiest part of Glenalmond, founded in 1841 as a public school for members of the Episcopal Church. As a school it is very successful, and it is a fine pile of building, which cost £42,000 ; the elegant Gothic CMpel was erected subsequently by the Avarden, Rev. Ch. Wordsworth, now Bishop of the diocese, at a cost of £5500. Glenalmond, in which the col- lege is situated is of a very pic- turesque character, and was the sub- ject of lines by Wordsworth : — " A convent, even a hermit's cell, Would break the silence of this dell ; It is not quiet, it is not ease. But something deeper far than these. " 288 Route i^k.— Crieff to Aherfeldy. Sect. IV. The Cairnies (Mrs, Malcolm Pat- ton) is a pretty cottage surrounded by a Pinetum surpassed by few in Scot- land. Methven Castle (Wni. Smythe, Esq.) is a fine old Scotch seat and estate, abounding in old timber.] 15. Ahnondbank Stat, to the rt. of which is Tippermuir, pro- perly Lamerkin Muir, where the Marquis of Montrose, with 1100 half-clad Irish and 1300 half-armed Highlanders, defeated a tumultuous mob of about 6000 Covenanters, citizens of Perth and others, hastily gathered together to oppose him under Lord Elcho ; the battle was fought on the 1st Sept. 1644, and the town of Perth was the prize of the victory. 20 1 m. 1. Huntingtowcr Castle. The key is left at a shop in the village, and 2s. 6d. is charged for the use of it ! There is nothing interesting in the interior, which is used as a granary. Its name was changed after the Gowrie Conspiracy from that of Euthven, the latter having acquired a disagreeable notoriety from the Raid of Euthven, perpe- trated there in 1582. King James VI., returning from Blair Castle to Edinburgh, was invited by the Earl of Gowrie to his castle of Euthven. He accej^ted the invitation, but on arriving, found himself sur- rounded by a number of the nobility of the kingdom politically opposed to him. The next morning a list of de- mands was presented to him, to which he was called upon to accede, the chief being that he should dismiss his favourites, the Earls of Arran and Athol. James endeavoured to leave the room, when one of the conspira- tors put his back against the door, at which outrage the king burst into tears, and was told roughly, " Better bairns greet than bearded men." In the end he was compelled to agree to all their demands. The castle consists of 2 square tower. 23 m. Perth Junct. Stat. (Rte. 43.) ROUTE 45a. Crieff to Aberfeldy or Dunkeld, by Amulree and the Small Glen. (23 m.) For Crieff, see Ete. 45. A carri- age may be hired at the Drummond Arms ; no coach. The road runs N.E. to Gihnerton, having on 1. the Knock of Crietf, and 3 m. Monzie (pron. Monee) village and Castle (G. Johnstone, Esq., of Lathrisk), a modern castellated mansion, under the Knock of Crieff, surrounded by stately trees, amongst which are some of the oldest Larclies in Scotland, one of them, at 3 ft. from the ground, is 20 ft. in girth. The road surmounts a steep hill, and descends into the vale of the Almond, where the pretty grounds of Logiealmond divide it ; the rt. branch goes down the valley to Glen- almond and the College (Ete. 45). The 1, branch ascends the sti-eam and enters the Small Glen, an in- teresting Highland pass. The road is carried for about 2 m. through a narrow rocky defile, one of the gates into the Highlands. In its jaws, near its upper end, is the re- puted tomb of Ossian, a rude flat stone, removed from off" the bones it was meant to cover, when the road was made ] 746 : — " In this still place, remote from men, Sleeps Ossian in the narrow glen ; In this still place, where murmurs on, But one meek streamlet— only one." The Almond is crossed at the bridge, and over a bleak moor, we come to Corriemuckloch, and soon after reach 12. m. Amulree. Good angling quarters Inn : Post-horses. On the Braan, which issues out of Loch FrcucMe, a little to the W. of the place. Perthshire. Pamte 46. — Kenmore to Inveromn ; Glenlyon. 289 From this a road follows the course of the Braan to 10 m. DunJceld (Rte. 48), and another leads in 11 m. to Aherfekly^i^t. (Rte. 44.) ROUTE 46. Taymouth (Kenmore) to Inver- oran, by Fortingal and Glen- lyon. It is 30 m. from Kenmore to the Fort- William road. Carriages can go as fiir as Innerwick througli all the most beautiful portions of Glen- lyon. The latter part of the Ete. is only for pedestrians. The Lyon is crossed at the ferry, close by which is the shell of Comhra Castle, a small square keep of 3 storeys, completely enveloped in ivy. [Ig m. from Cushieville Inn, over- looking the road from Strath Tay to Strath Tummel, is the ruined castle of Garth, once the abode of Cuilean Cursta, or the fierce Wolf, brother of the Earl of Buchan. Be- tween the inn and the castle are some waterfalls on the Keltnie Burn.] 6 m. Garth House (Rev. H. Blis- sett), was the birthplace of Gen. David Stewart, author of " A history of the Highlanders. " 7. m. Fortingal village. Here is an Inn. By crossing Drummond Hill (the top of which may be reached even in a carriage by a zigzag road) 3 m. is saved in this distance. The great curiosity here is the yew-tree in the ch.-yd. (keys to be had at the Manse), said to be 2500 years old. It is 12 ft. in height, and the largest of the stems measures 20 ft. in girth. 4| m. from a small bridge may be seen Glenlyon House- (F. Garden Campbell, Esq.), l^Scotland.'] the old residence | Castle, an old of the Campbells of Glenlyon, one of whose membej'S took part in the Glencoe ma-ssacre. On 1. is a Roman encampment occupying about 80 acres. Tlie Prtetorium can be easily traced, and there is also within the camp a tumulus 60 ft. long. The way to Innerwick turns to the rt., and immediately afterwards enters the pass, continuing for sonu time by the side of the river, whose channel is very deep and rocky. The road is uneven, beautifully shaded with trees, and winds so that the aspect of the view is continually changing. Glenlyon is a very narrow pictur- esque valley running up from the Tay 3 m. below Kenmore, E. and W., at the back (N. side) of Ben Lawers. Ex- cept for pedestrians it is a cid de sac ; the good carriage road ceases near Innerwick, about 20 m. There are cart-roads leading from this N". to Loch Rannoch, and S. to Loch Tay, but only guides will bring the travel- ler from L. Lochy through the glens at the vale head to Tyndrum or In- veroran, by Dalmally, or Glencoe. The lower part of the valley is called Fortingal, and a drive of 10 or 15 m. up it will disclose all the fine scenerj'-. It is shut in by high hills, richly wooded, with protruding crags between and above. In parts the scenery of the defile is like the Trossachs. [To reach Glenlyon from Ken- more one must either cross the W. shoulder of Drummond Hill, turning out of the Killin road near Stronfearn (2 m.), or must make a detour of 3 or 4 m. E., to Comrie Castle, the ruined shell of a square tower, to Fortingal village.] 8 m. passing rt. Cliesthill House (W. J. B. Stewart Meuzies, Esq.), the pass opens into the glen. 9 m. on a small hillock on the rt., are the scanty ruins of Carnhane stronghold of the O 290 Pites. 46, Glenhjon — 47, Keniiwre to Glencoe. Sect. IY. M 'Naughts, evidently an insignifi- cant place. 12 ni. the road now passes a Free Kirk and Manse, from whence are fine views of the bold rounded top of Ben Gherrig, while on the opposite side, towering amongst some lower elevations, is tlie peak of Ben Lawers. The once comfortable little inn at 14 m. Innencick has been converted into a shooting-box, and its place sup- plied by a small public -house. Here is a road on the N. to Loch Rannoch. 8 m., upon the opposite side of the river is the burial-ground, in which is still preserved a rude bell of olden days. [15 m. From Bridge of Bcdgic a road runs S. to Killiu (Ete. 44), and across the hills 12m.] In front is the gateway of Meggcrnie Castle (E. S. Alenzies, Esq.), the house being 2 m . beyond. After passing the gate a picturesque waterfall will be ob- served on the 1. The drive winds along the side of the river for more than a mile, and then enters a fine avenue 4 m. long, of beech and lime tree.s, which meet overhead. The castle is a square, comfortably-built house, originally erected in 1579, restored and repaired in 1673, and much enlarged and improved by its present owner. At 16 m. the road ceases to be passable for carriages, and the scenery changes considerably ; the glen be- coming bare and treeless, and ap- parently producing nothing but turf. At 22 m. is a good specimen of a ^^ Pictuh Tower." It is much dilapi- dated, though enough is left to give an idea of what it was like when per- fect. The walls are still 2 ft. high, and 7. ft. thick, of large stones, with the interstices filled up with small ones. 27 m. at Locli Lyon the road alto- gether ceases. The pedestrian should now pass round to the W. side of the Loch, and tuiii up a watercourse on rt. This ends in a peat track, which leads down to the side of a burn, along which the path runs for the remainder of the way. The sur- face of the ground is thickh' studded Avith roots of great size, proving that at some distant period the whole of this country was part of a gigantic forest. This is borne out by the ancient name of the Forest of Mam- lorn. 32 m. the pedestrian reaches the high road to Fort-William, and striking northward reaches 47 m. Inveroran Inn. (Rte. 34.) EOUTE 47. Kenmore to Glencoe, by Kin- loch-Eannoch. For Pedestrians. 45 m. This route should not be attempted without a map and compass, as it i.s difficult and boggy, except in dry weather. 2 m. Com bra Castle, and ferry across the Lyon (Ete. 46). 4 m. CushieviUe Inn, from which a visit may be paid to the waterfall on the Keltnie Burn. The road from hence passes Garth Castle ruins (Kte. 46), and through an unculti- vated and wild district, the only great feature in the view being the celebrated mountain SchchaUion (3564 ft.), round which the road winds. The name is said to be from " Sith-gailionn," — the Moun- tain of Storms, though other deriva- tions have been given. The traveller is scarcely able to get a good xiqw of the top, being so close under it ; but the mountain stands well, having nothing round or near to withdraw the attention from its single conical peak, which is so characteristic of its quartz-rock formation. Dr. Ma.ske- lyne, the astronomer royal, made his experiments for ascertaining the gra- vity of the earth on Schehallion in 1777. On rt. rises the less cele- Scotland. Route 47. — Klnloch-Rannoch. 291 brated Farragon, about 2800 ft. high. Schehallion can be easily ascended from Kinloch, but the view from the summit is comparatively confined. [At 8 m. a road on rt. goes to Tummel Bridge, 4 m., and on north- ward to Dalnacardoch, where it joins the Highland Rly. and north road to Inverness (Rte. 48).] The way to 'Kinloch continues to ascend until a considerable elevation has been reached ; then passing through a long tract of bog and moor which lies at the foot of Schehallion, it descends through a narrow pass bordered with wood, and enters the vale of Rannoch. 17 m. Kinloch- Rannoch {Inn Macdonald Arms, good ; 3 or 4 boats for fishing ; the loch contains Salmo ferox). This neat little village, which has improved very much of late years, is situated, as its name implies, at the head or E. end of Loch Hannoch, a beautiful piece of water 11 m. in length and 1 in breadth, and abounding with large trout. There is a road on either side, but the northern is the best one to take, being somewhat shorter, and aff"ording the best views. Along the N. side the ground is partly cultivated, and partly covered with scattered plantations of fir and birch, through which the glistening waters of the lake appear to great advantage. On the S. side there is more wood and less cultivation. As we get to the "VV. end of the lake may be discovered the highest peak of Ben Lawers, about 20 m. distant. Coach in summer from Kinloch-Ran- noch to Struan Station. Passing Killahonan and Ardla- rich the road crosses the Ericht, which flows into Loch Rannoch from Loch Ericht, a desolate and dreary sheet of water some 16 m. long, lying at the foot of Ben Alder. At the W. end of Loch Rannoch is the Lodge, formerly the Tighna- line Inn, but now turned into a shooting-box. 28 m. Rannoch Lodge (Hon. Lady Menzies). The road, which has hitherto been very good, now deteriorates. By- and-bye it becomes a farm road, a peat track, a well-defined path, and ultimately degenerates into a line of precarious footing across a marsh. At 36 m. the farm road is left for a path (1.) leading to a rude bridge across the Gauer. \ m. beyond this is a shepherd's hut, from which a track will be found to the head of Loch LydoclL The walker must now gird up his loins to cross the Moor of Rannoch, the largest and dreariest moor in Scotland, which will occupy, generally speaking, about 4 hours, although the distance is not above 8 m. Keep well up the ridge on the rt., and if the ground is swampy climb the hill and proceed along the top, the peaks of which will be found marked with large stones, probably intended as landmarks. Steer due W., and then Loch Lydoch on the 1. will gradually become more and more distant, and will be succeeded by a number of small pieces of water, varying in number and size according to the season. "The long, lonely Moor of Ran- noch lies in great measure on gi-anite, while the range of mountains that bounds its south-eastern margin con- sists, not of granite, but of quartz rock." — Gcikie. General Roy, in his "Military Antiquities," mentions the Moor of Rannoch and Edrachillis as the two most remarkable districts in his knowledge. After a time the mountains at the entrance of Glencoe will become visible, and then the road and the inn. Still keep up the hill until a small burn is reached running straight doAvn to the road. There is a path along this which leads direct to 48 m. King's House, near the entrance to Glencoe (Rte. 34). 292 Route 48. — Perth to Forres and Inverness. Sect. IY ROUTE 48. Perth to Forres and Inverness, by Dunkeld, Killiecrankie, Blair- Athole, Kingussie, and Grantown. Higliland Rly. ; a single line ; 4 trains daily to Forres, 119 m. ; and to Inverness, 144 m. Perth is described in Ete. 43. {See Map.) rt. 2 m. on the opposite side of the Tay, is Scone Palace (Lord Mans- freld), described in Ete. 43. Crossing the Almond Eiver, the line reaches 4 m. Luncarty Stat. In a field upon the 1. Kenneth III., about 985, defeated the Danes, who had in- vaded the kingdom. It was in this battle that the Scots were rallied by a peasant of the name of Hay ; and the victory being gained, Hay be- came a great man and founded the Tweeddale family. This, like many other picturesque traditions^ how- ever, has been said to be apocryphal, though several families bearing the name of Hay still have a peasant with a yoke over his arm as one of the supporters of their coat of arms. We now cross the rivers Shochie and Ordie immediately above where they unite and run into the Tay. An old rhyme runs — Says the Shochie to the Ordie, " Where shall we meet ? " "At the Cross o' St. Johnston, when a' are fast asleep. " On the opposite side of the Tay are the Stormontfield breeding-ponds, where the process of breeding salmon can be seen. 7 m. Stanley Junct. Stat., where the great north-east S3'stem of rail- waj^s is given off to Forfar, Aber- deen, and Inverness (Ete. 50). The village of Stanley takes its name from the late Lady Emily Stanley, mother of the 1st Marquis of xithole. The old house of Stob- hall is in this neighbourhood, and is of great interest to the antiquarian. The hiding-place of the D. of Perth in the chapel may still be seen. 5 m. from the stat., onrt, is Camjme Linn, the only cataract of the Tay the scene of Eacliin Maclan's deatl in "The Fair Maid of Perth." Oi; rt., on a clear day, the blue hills o' Forfarshire may be seen. Near thi^ rises Dunsinane, {seep. 304). 10| m., on rt. of Murtlily Stat., is the large County Lunatic Asylum. On the other side of the river may be seen the village of Caputh, with a ferry-boat which works by a chain. Farther on is New Murthly Castle, seat of Sir A. Douglas Stewart, a verj"- large and formal-looking square Eliza- bethan chateau, begun on a grand scale from designs of Gillespie Graham, architect, but left a mere shell, never finished, amid grand woods. A few yards to the N. are the old castle, built at various periods, and a little chapel, used occasionally for Presbyterian wor- ship. The gardens, in the old Dutch style, are quaint. The grounds are very beautiful, and adorned with rare pine-trees of new kinds, hardly to be matched elsewhere for size, but are closed by the present owner to the public. Near Dalpowie House is an old oak, called the hangman's tree, where Highland marauders, etc., w^ere sus- pended. This custom was common when what were known as the "Heritable Jurisdictions" prevailed in Scotland, when the superior of the land tried and condemned criminals without the intervention of the King's Courts. The scenery is only partially re- vealed through the screen of thick fir-trees rapidly passed by the train. Emerging from a tunnel, the tra- veller is all at once introduced to a view most exquisite, which com- Scotland. Route 48. — Dunkeld. 293 bines the charms of Highland moun- tain and river with the rich foliage of Lowland plantation. The rly. skirts 1. the base of Birnam Hill (1325 ft.), which is said by Macculloch never to have recovered the march of its wood to Dansinane, but a young and vigorous plantation is now creeping up the sides, which is the more necessary, as the hill has been much broken into for its slate. At its foot lies the Birnam Hotel, and 15 m. DitnTceld Stat., on the S. bank of the Tay, about 1 m. from the town. Close to the station, the Birnam Hotel, a handsome building, with a baronial hall for tables d'hote. It is a well-kept and comfortable Inn. Omnibuses run from the trains into the town {Hotels : Athole Arms, excellently managed ; Royal H. (Fisher's), close to the dncal gate, crossing the river. Fishing (salmon and trout), to be obtained by visitors staying at Athole Arms (Grant's) or Birnam Hotel (Pople's) ; trout-fishing in the Braan. Dunkeld, the gate of the High- lands, is a village of about 1000 in- habitants, in a charming situation on the 1. bank of the Tay, here hemmed in between grand wooded mountains, and crossed by a hand- some bridge of 7 arches, erected by Telford in 1809, at a cost of £42,000. Pontage, |d. for foot-passenger. At the farther end of the main street, leading to Blair-Athole, ^ m. from the Bridge, is the Lodge Gate to the Duke of Athole's Grounds. A^isitors are admitted under the con- duct of a guide, and the charge is 2s. 6d. for one or two, and Is. each for three or more. Some distance from the entrance are the foundations of a Palace, designed by Hopper, begun by John, 4th Duke of Athole, but aban- doned at the Duke's death, having cost £30, 000. The actual ducal residence is a modest cottage on a smooth lawn near the river bank. Here, in 1842, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were entertained and welcomed by the late Duke at the head of 900 Highlanders, 500 of them being Athole men of his own clan. A palatial looking building on a hillock at the back of the town is the Duke of Athole's dog-kennels. Near the house stands the vener- able and picturesque Cathedral, the choir of which is fitted up as the parish ch., the nave being a ruin, and open to the sky. It is a grand Gothic edifice, appa- rently of the 15th centy., though the massive round piers of the nave bespeak an earlier date, and we know that it stands on the site of one of the oldest churches in Scotland, founded by Culdee missionaries, who in the 9th centy. were driven from lona by the roving Northern pirates, and settled here, bringing with them the relics of St. Columba. The main arches of the nave, which are pointed, are surmounted by a very clumsy triforium of round arches. In the chapter-house is a monu- ment to John, 4th Duke of Athole, 1833, with all the armorial bearings. The W. end of the ch. is pierced with a large window, which is placed awry, its canopied moulding being twisted away from the line of the gable. It is flanked by a noble mas- sive tower (1469-1501). In the S. aisle of the nave is the monument of Bp. Piobert of Cardney, who laid the foundation of the nave ; in the N. aisle is the statue of Bp. Sinclair. In the choir, now used as the parish ch., is a recumbent e&gy of Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, natural son of Robert II., better known as ' ' The Wolf of Badenoch," whose greatest ex- ploit was the destruction of Elgin Cathedral. After a career of un- paralleled cruelty and vice he died, and was buried here in 1394. Here 294 Route ^S.—Dirnksld; D. of A tholes Grounds. Sect. IV. also is a monument to the 42d Highlanders (Black Watch) who fell in the Crimean war, — a bas-relief by Steell, erected by the surviving offi- cers in 1872. Close to the ch. tower rise two of the oldest and finest Larches in Britain, brought from the Tyrol in 1738, 15 ft. 8 in. in girth at 3 ft. from the ground, 99 ft. high, but maimed in the leading shoot. In 1689 a regiment of 1200 Low- landers took up a i^osition in and around the cathedral, and was at- tacked by the Highland army, fresh from its victory of Killiecrankie. After a most obstinate fight the Highlanders were beaten off" with great loss, and soon afterwards dis- persed. The regiment has since been known as the 26th Cameronians. The grave of Col. Cleland, who com- manded them and was killed, is to be seen in the churchyard. Nothing can be lovelier than the broad Tcrrace-waltcs of velvet turf stretching up the 1. bank of the Tay, commanding the brisk river, the bridge, aud the noble mountains, and shaded by trees of magnificent growth (silver fir 150 ft. high and 16 ft. in circumference, Scotch firs and vigor- ous deodars. 2 m. from Dunkeld, by the road vqy Strathbraan, passing the village of Inver, the visitor may reach the romantic river Braan, which, in a rocky glen, forms a pictur- esque fall over the slate strata turned on edge. A pretty summer- house, called Ossians Hall, which stood here, was blown up and de- stroyed by some malicious person, much to the loss of visitors, 1869. The miscreant Avas never found out, and the summer-house has never been rebuilt. The village of Inver is about one mile from Dunkeld, and on the way the Braan is crossed by one of Gen. AVade's bridges. Inver Avas the resi- dence of Neil Gow. Higher up the stream is the Rumbling Bridge, a favourite re- sort of tourists, below which the Braan, falling into a deep chasm, growls among the rocks, and if there has been much rain this is of itself worth a visit. The ruins of Goxvrie Castle, a seat of the once powerful Earls of GoAvrie, whose lands were confiscated at the time of the Gowrie Conspiracy, are at Trochrie, about 2 miles farther up Strathbraan, on the Amulree road. The visitor can re- turn by the Amulree road, passing rt. Dundonachie (Burn Murdoch, Esq.) The Episcopal Ch. of St. Mary is close to the Birnani Hotel. Walks. — a. Birnam H. is ascended by a very pleasant walk up the side of the Inchcwan Burn, which passes the hotel, passing under the railway bridge. No carriages allowed, how- ever. The view from the top is magnificent. h. The Terrace- Walk, along rt. bank of Tay behind the hotel. Here may be seen the finest Sycamore in Britain, and an oak nearly its equal. There is a path by the river to Murthly, but its gates are closed to strangers. c. The walks up and around Craig-y-barns command fine views of the Tay above Dunkeld. Highland Gatherings are held annually at Dunkeld about end -of July, and Birnam end of August. Among the modern villas and countiy -houses around Dunkeld may be named Kinloch (Hon. Arthur Kiunaird, M.P.) ; St. Mary's Tower (Lord John Manners), charming view ; Erigmore (Sir John Garden), etc. Conveyances from Dunkeld. — El y. to Perth and Inverness. Coach to Braemar by Blairgowrie. Excursions. — a. Loch of the Lowes 3 m., and Blairgowrie, 12 m. (Ete. 52 B) ; h. Murthly Castle and Camp- sie Linn (Rte. 48) ; c. Amulree and Scotland. rioute 48. — Diinheld to PitlocJirie. 295 Small Glen (Ete. 45a) ; d. Aberfekly, 18 m. (Rail., Dunkeld to Pitlochrie and Kenmore, 24 m. (Ete. 44) ; e. Pitlochrie, Pass of Killiecrankie, and Blair- Athole (Rte. 48). Quitting Dunkeld Stat., in a cut- ting which shuts out the Tay, we cross its tributary, the Braan, and skirt the base of Craigvinean. Only partial glimpses can be obtained of the really line scenery of the Tay, owing to the thick fir woods. 201 m. Dalguise Stat., on rt. are the farm-buildings of the Duchess of Athole, and on 1. is Dalguise House (J. Stewart, Esq.) ; farther on, also on 1., is Kinnaird House, a residence of the Duke of Athole. The line now crosses the Tay to 21 im. Giiaij Stat. 24 m. Ballixluig Junct. Stat. Here the Aberfeldy branch Rly. is given off (Rte. 44), on the way to Taymouth and Loch Tay. On a peninsula formedby the junc- tion of the Tunimel and Tay stands the village of Logierait (onl.). Just above a monumental cross has been erected to the 6th Duke of Athole. The Tay is here crossed by a chain boat, which is swept from side to side by the action of the stream. The railway now ascends the Yale of Tummel. 14 m. from Ballinluig on rt. is the village and white inn of MouUncarn, near which are some Falls, and the remains of an old tower about 80 ft. square, of the history of which nothing is known. Passing rt. Croftinloan (Captain Jack Murray), Donavourd (G. Gordon, Esq.), and 1. Killichangie and Dunfallandie (Miss Ferguson), the rly. reaches Pitlochrie Stat. {Inn : Fisher's, ad- joining the Stat.), very good, but generally full in Aug. and Sept. Pitlochrie is a neat quiet village of lodging-houses, much resorted to in summer. It is charmingly situated on an eminence above the Tummel, surrounded by wooded hills, over which, on the N., soars the grand mass of Ben Vracky. For those who have leisure to stop here, the hills and woods around offer walks and rides almost without end. Palish ch., Episcopal ch.. Free Kirk. JFalks. — a. To the village of Mou- lin (2 m. N.), on the road to Spital of Glenshee. Near it are Balnakielly (H. B. Stewart, Esq.), which is likely to be turned into a Hydropathic Receptacle, and Balledmund (J. Ferguson, Esq.) b. The ascent of Ben Vracky is a walk of 6 or 7 m. ; 2^ hrs. ; fine view. c. 1 m. E. of Pitlochrie, not far from the Episcopal Chapel, a small glen opens out, in which is a tiny cascade called the Black Spout. cl. The woods and grounds of Fas- kalhj, 2 m. up the valley of the Tummel, abound in charming shady walks reaching to the river side. Respectable persons are readily ad- mitted by Mr. Butter, the obliging owner. There is no need to approach the house closely, much less to stare in at the windows. {See next page. ) e. To the Falls of Tummel— Im- mediately above the House of Fas- kally, the river Garry, descending from Killiecrankie Pass and Blair- Athole, joins the Tummel, Avhose upper course is nearly from W. to E. A short distance above this junction are the Falls of Tummel, which are pretty, and formed by a large body of water, though not above 18 ft. high. In order to reach them, follow the Blair- Athole road past Faskally, for 4 m., where a road de- 296 Route 48. — Loch Tiimmel ; KilUecranhie. Sect. 'IV. scends to a Bridge over the Garry- A little beyond this a footpath on 1., through fields and plantations, leads to the Falls. /. Loch Tiimmel and Queen s View, 8 m. , or 4^ m. beyond the Bridge of Garry, the road, ascending the 1. bank of the river Tunimel, passes Bo'iiskdd (G.F. Barbour, Esq.) After crossing the mouth of the little Glen of Fincastle, ascend a hill, from the summit of which a projecting bastion of rock permits a magnificent prospect, known as the "■Queens View''^ of Loch Tummel, 8 m., at a great depth below, witli its rocks and forest-covered headlands, backed up at the W. end by the peaks of Sche- hallion and Fan-agon. Passing Portnellan on the X. side of the lake, and continuing along the upper course of the river, the tourist reaches Bridge of Tummel Inn, a very pleasant fishing-station. From here one road runs N. to Dal- nacardoch, another due S. to Comrie,. Cushieville, and Kenmore (Ete. 44), Avliile the main road continues on to Kinloch-Eannoch, 21 m. Hence the tourist can continue a walking excur- sion over to Glencoe (Rte. 47).] From Pitlochrie the tourist may visit Glentilt, Bruar Falls, Blair- Athole Castle grounds, and an ex- cursion may be made to the summit of the Hill of Tulloch {see p. 298.) Coach in summer to Kinloch-Ran- noch from Pitlochrie. From Pitlochrie the rly. ascends the valley of the Tummel in cuttings, piissing behind Faskally. The great charm of Pitlochrie is its vicinity to the mouth of the grandly -wooded defile, in the midst of which the Tummel, coming from the W., is joined by the Garry, de- scending from Blair- Athole. The N. part of this defile is properly the Pass of KiJliecranMc. The beauties of the magnificent scenery are lost to those who merely pass through in the train. It is best explored on foot or in an open carriage. The road and railway run through the Pass side by side. They both tra- verse the beautiful woods of Faskally (Arch. Butter, Esq.), whose house is barely seen L placed in the midst of a sunny haugh, just below the junc- tion of the Garry with the Tummel. A little further on (1.) a wooden foot- bridge leads over the rl}^ , and a road branches down to the Old Bridge of Garnj, commanding a fine view up the Pass and of Ben-y-Gloe at its head. This bridge leads to the Falls and Loch of Tummel. From the Bridge of Garry also a footpath leads up the 1. bank of the Garry, through Mr. Butter's grounds, along the line of the old road by which Gen. Mackay marched his army to encounter Dun- dee. From this path, which goes under the Rly. Viaduct, a just esti- mate of the grandeur of the Pass can alone be formed. A wicket-gate also leads 1. out of the high road down to a jutting point called the Queens View, from which you look over the Ely. Viaduct, and down the course of the river. The rly., which hitherto has been carried in cuttings along the shoulder of the hills, is conveyed over a small burn descending to the Garry, on a noble Viaduct of 10 arches, and at once penetrates the hill beyond in a tunnel, emerging from which the train reaches Killiecrankie Stat. — About \ m. N. of this is the field of battle. The Pass of Killiecrankie is cele- brated for the battle fought in July 1689, between General Mackay, who commanded for William III., and Claverhouse (Viscount Dundee) on the side of King James VII., and in which the latter commander re- ceived his death wound. But it Scotland. ^.48. — Pass of KiUiecr ankle ; Blair- A thole. 297 must be remarked that the battle itself did not take place in the Pass, for Claverhouse allowed the royal troops to emerge and form in the opening of the valley. "The ascent of General Mackay's troops on the day of the battle was long and toilsome ; for even the foot had to climb by twos and threes, and the baggage-horses, 1200 in number, could only mount one at a time. No wheeled carriage had ever been tugged up that arduous path. The head of the column had emerged, and was on the tableland, w^hile the rear-guard was still in the plain below. "It was past 7 o'clock ; Dundee gave the word ; the Highlanders dropped their plaids. The few who were so luxurious as to wear socks of untanned hide spurned them away. It was long remembered in Loch- aber that Lochiel took off what pro- bably was the only pair of shoes in the clan, and charged barefoot at the head of his men. The whole line advanced firing. The enemy returned the fire and did much exe- cution. AVhen only a small space was left between the armies, the Highlanders suddenly flung away their firelocks, drew their broad- swords, and rushed forward with a fearful yell. The Lowlanders pre- pared to receive the shock ; but this was then a long and awkward pro- cess, and the soldiers were still fumbling with the muzzles of their guns and the handles of their bayo- nets, when the whole flood of Mac- leans, Macdonalds, and Camerons came down. The ranks of Balfour's regiment broke. He was cloven down while struggling in the press. Eamsay's men turned their backs and dropped their arms. Mackay's own foot were swept away by the furious onset of the Camerons. His brother and nephew exerted- them- selves in vain to rally the men. The former was laid dead on the ground by the stroke of a claymore. The latter, with eight wounds in his body, made his way to his uncle's side. Even in that extremity, IMackay retained his self-possession. He had still one hope. A charge of horse might recover the day ; for of horse the bravest Highlanders were sup- posed to stand in awe. But he called on the horse in vain. Belhaven, indeed, behaved like a gallant gen- tleman ; but his troopers, appalled by the order of the infantry, galloped ofl" in disorder. Annandale's men fol- lowed ; all was over ; and the mingled torrent of red coats and tartans went roaring down the valley to the gorge of Killiecrankie." — Lord Macau/ay. The scenery of the Pass, which is about 1^ m. in length, is exceedingly beautiful, the river Garry foaming at the bottom in its rocky channel, while the wooded hills rising on each side shut it completely in. Stat., is Urrard House (Mrs. Alston Stewart), into which Dundee is said to have been carried after he had received his mortal wound. An upright stone in the middle of a field is said to mark the spot where he fell ; but it is generally believed to have been part of an old stone monument. As the road emerges from the Pass the winding valley is adorned with several pretty villas and residences, such as Killiecrankie Cottage, Strathgarry House (Mrs. Stewart), and Lude House (J. P. M'lnro}^ Esq.), with the height of Ben-y-Gloe rising behind. The railway and road cross on bridges the river Tilt, close to 35 m. Blair-Athole Stat. {Inns : Athole Arms, an excellent house, opposite the Duke's park gate, which is close to the stat ; Bridge of Tilt Inn. Strangers are admitted to the park and grounds, but must be attended by a guide, who receives Is. from each person. 298 Route 48, — Blair Castle ; Bruar Falls. Sect. IV. Blair Castle, the principal residence of the D. of Athole, was dismantled in 1690, to prevent its being garrisoned by the rebels, but it was restored with towers and re-embattled 1870. It was built by John of Strathbogie, one of the Comyns, who became Earl of Athole by marriage, and is rather destitute of architet^tural features. The site and the grounds are charm- ing. They include fine trees, espe- cially several grand Larches — rivals in age and size of those at Dunkeld. In the old Church, behind the house, was buried the valiant Dundee, the hero of Killiecrankie, but his remains have been removed to the Ch. of Old Deer. The family of Murray ranks high in antiquity and importance in the annals of Scotland, and the motto now borne by them, " Furth fortune, and fill the fetters," was gi'anted to an ancestor by James I., who sent him in command of his troops against a rebellious Lord of the Isles. The ^larquis of Tulli- bardine and 2 brothers were " out " with i\Iar in 1715, on the side of the Old Pretender, and after many years' exile, 2 of them (the third being dead) returned with Charles Edward in 1745. The Marquis unfurled the Prince's banner at Glenfinnan, and Lord G. Murray was the ablest and most devoted officer in his army ; the first in advance, the last in retreat. He finally escaped to Rome ; but his elder brotlier was captured, and died in the Tower. The castle, oc- cupied as an outpost of the Duke of Cumberland, was besieged by Lord George, and defended by a garrison under Sir Andrew Agnew, just before the battle of CuUoden. Excursions. — a. Killiecrankie and Pitlochrie {a,nte) ; h. Falls of Bruar 3| m. N. ; c. Glentilt and Braemar (Ete. 52c) ; d. HiU of TuUoch. The Hill of TuUoch was ascended by Her Majesty and the Prince Con- sort. She greatlj^ praises the View. The lower part of Glentilt is included in the grounds of Blair, and i)resents some pretty wooded and rocky scenery, in the style of Ruysdael's pictures. No one need ascend to the head of Glentilt in search of fine scenery, nor for other reasons, except he be bound for Braemar {see Rte. 52c), to which it is a short-cut bridle-way. The Falls of the Bruar well de- serve to be visited from Blair-A thole, 4 m. 10 m. The Falls of Bruar, three romantic cascades, each differing from the other, afford fine studies for the artist of rock and water, and rich and varied foliage, far finer than the Falls of Tummel. A carriage- road leads \\\) to the second, and a path from thence gives easy access to all of them, up one side of the stream and down the other ; distance 1 m. The sides of the stream are planted with fir, the result of a vis't from Burns, Avho wrote the " Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the noble Duke of Athole." ' Would then my noble master please To grant my highest wishes, He'll shade my banks wi' towering trees And bonnie spi-eading bushes." The Rly. going N. crosses the Bruar a little above its junction with the Garry, about a mile before reaching 40 m. Struan Stat., which is 2 ni. from Bruar Falls. Coach from Struan Stat, to Kin- loch-Kannoch. Near Struan Stat, (a fine retro- spective view over Blair-Athole) is the old mansion of Struan. The rly., constantly rising, passes through birch plantations. The channel of the Garr}' is a trough of slate rocks, which form a succession of rapids. Inverness. Route 48. — Blair-Athole to Kingussie. 299 444 m., rt., is Dalnacardoch. This point is the boundary between the forest of Athole and that of Druniouchter. A road runs S. from here to Strath Tummel, cross- ing in its course Glen Erochkie, The gradients of the rly. have been getting steeper and steeper, and the traveller now tinds the country very much wilder and more deso- late as he approaches the summit level. If the day is clear the moun- tains on rt. show to great advantage. Near this we bid adieu to trees, not to be seen again until we reach Strathspey. The old coach road may be traced in places by tlie black snow-posts, and the rly. is defended from snow-drifts by strong palissade screens, notwithstanding the line is often blocked up in severe winters. 51 m. Balnaspiclal Stat., very near the source of the Gany in Loch Garry, which is seen 1., a little to the S. 52.^ m. The line now attains its highest point, and enters Inverness- shire at Drumouchter Fass, where the line and road run between the mountains called Badenoch Boar on the rt. and the Athole Sow on the 1., immediately after which the water- shed of the Spey is entered. ' ' The piles of the glacier debris Avhich can be traced to tlie head of Glengarry, cross the watershed, and go down Glentruim, showing that the glacier of Loch Garry split upon the watershed, and sent one branch into Glengarry, the other into Glen- truim. The deep pass of Drum- ouchter, 1450 ft. above the sea, is as wild a scene as can be reached in the Highlands by a turnpike-road." ■ — Geikie. 1. The head of Loch Ericht is visible from the rly. before reaching 59 m. Dalwhinnie Stat. Inn, at the head of Glentruim, a desolate and solitary spot, protected by a few fir-trees from the cold winds. [On 1. lies Loch Ericht or Errochd, good fishing, and boats (no road), a long dreary lake, surrounded on all sides by the mountains of the forest of Drumouchter and those of the forest of Ben Alder, of wdiich Ben Alder (3741 ft.) is the highest point. The water of this loch is never known to freeze. In a cave in Ben Alder Prince Charlie was con- cealed by Cluny Macpherson.] [A road also runs N. from Dal- whinnie to Laggan, 7 m., to join that between Kingussie and Fort- William, Rte. 38]. Near the inn on rt. is Gen. AYade's stone, with the date of 1729 upon it. This marks the spot where the troops who made the roads from Inverness met those who were working up from Dunkeld, and commemorated the fact and the date on this stone. There is a fine view of Schehallion on 1. The Avild country here has on more than one occasion been a favourite rendezvous and stronghold of the Highlanders, who have here held their own against a far more numerous force of dis- ciplined trooi>s. In this neighbour- hood even Cromwell's Ironsides re- ceived a check from the men of Athole, and Gen. Cope, declining to encounter the Highlanders descend- ing from the Pass of Corryarrack, retired to Inverness, leaving open the Lowlands and the road to Edin- burgh, Aug. 26, 1745. Between Dalwhinnie and New- tonmore the Truim Water is crossed at Ettridge Bridge. The river Spey descending from its mountain cradle in the W. under Cairndearg, down Glenlaggan, receives the Truim near Glentruim House (Major L. Macpherson). Inveriiahavon, where the two rivers unite, was the scene of a great battle fought in the reign of James I. between the clans Cameron and Mackintosh. The rly. descends the valley for some way parallel with the Spey to 69 m. Newtonmore &id±., where the 300 Rmde 48. — Dunkeld to Inverness. Sect. IV. country becomes more picturesque, producing a short turf tliat forms excellent pasture for the Badenoch sheep. The Spey soon swells into a broad stream, its banks fringed with corn crops, and finely backed by the outline of the Grampian Chain on rt. At Newtonmore the rly. and the road cross the Spey, and keep along its 1, bank to 72 m. Kingussie Stat. , pronounced Kingeusie (Hotel, a good Inn), a vil- lage of some size, and, together with the greater part of the surrounding district, the property of Evan Baillie, Esq., of Dochfour, Avho purchased it from the last Duke of Gordon. It serves as a sort of capital to this wild country of Badenoch, Avhich foi-merly belonged to the Comyns, though, upon their annihilation by Bruce' s party, some of it w^as bestowed upon Randolph, Earl of Moray. Part of it was retained in the royal power, and was subse- quently granted to the natural son of Eobert II., better known as the Wolf of Badenoch. One of the for- tresses by which his power was maintained was on the opposite side of the Spey, on a sjiot now occupied by the ruins of the liuthvcji barracks, which were built in 1718 to keep the Highlanders in check, and were de- stro^^ed by them, 1745. This place was the closing scene of the rebellion, for here the High- landers assembled after the rout at Culloden, in hopes that Prince Charles would take the field again. But he saw the uselessness of an- other attempt ; and bidding them farewell, commanded them to dis- perse. A Coach leaves Kingussie daily, in summer, passing Loch Laggan and Spean Bridge (391 m.), and the mouth of Glen Roy, to Fort- William (Rte. 38), 50 m. Distances. — Dalwhinnie, 13 m, ; Aviemore, 11^ ; Laggan Inn, 18 m. ; Bridge of Roy, 33 m. The rly. next passes Belleville (Colonel Macpherson), beautifully situated on high ground. There is an obelisk close by to the memory of Macpherson, the trans- later or writer of Ossian, avIio built the house, from designs of Robert Adair. Sir David Brewster lived here. The Castle of Raits, upon whose site Belleville stands, was the scene of the slaughter of the Comyns by the clan Macintosh. Comyn had asked his opponents to dinner, and placed each of them at table next to one of his own clan. At the appearance of the boar's head on a dish, each Comyn was to slay a Macintosh. But the guests, having been warned of the plot, Avere too quick for their opponents, and when the boar's head appeared each ]\lacintosh slew a Comyn. At the W. of the castle is a large gi-ey stone called the Listen- ing Stone, at which the plot was revealed. The valley of the Spey below this has the aspect of a rolling plain of hillocks of drifted gravel, covered with heather, and Avoods of fir and birch, which, coupled with the windings of the river, give it a cha- racter of beauty and variety. 77^ m. Kincraig Stat., at the foot of Loch Inch, in which the Spey for a little time loses itself. To the S. now opens out the pic- turesque vale of Glenfeshie,* where twenty years ago the Duchess of Bed- ford built a rustic colony of wood huts, on whose rough walls the late Edwin Landseer left traces of his pencil. Birch-woods appear again, and continue with little alteration as far as Rothiemurchus, where the woods and walks of the Doune (Grant of Rothiemurchus), on the rt. bank of the Spey, are especially Moray. Ete. 4=8. — Strathsjmj ; Cairngorm; Gramjnans. 301 heaiitiful. To the IST. extends the | mountain chain of Monadh Leadh. On the rt. Cairngorm and Ben Muich-Dlmi are grand objects, visible in iine weather more or less from Kingussie to Grantown, generall}^ tipped with snow. On 1. is Lock Alvie, and on rt. Craig Alvie, upon which is a cairn to the memory of those who fell at Waterloo, and a monument to the last Duke of Gordon, to whom this property belonged. Between the rly. and Loch Alvie is Lynvuilg Inn, a passable roadside hostelry, and the only one between Kingussie and Abernethy or Gran- town except the Aviemore Inn. A pleasant short Excursion from this to the lakelet, Loch-an-Eilan, and pic- turesque ruined Castle, on an island in the midst of the lake, 2 m. from the Spey, 6 m. from Aviemore Stat. The road to it skirts round a wooded hill called Ord Bain. Lynvuilg is 2 m. from 83 J m. Aviemore Stat. Inn to hQ re-established. A grand view of the Cairngorm range accompanies the traveller on rt. , in the foreground birch-woods, mixed with rocks — highly picturesque. This is the border of the county of Moray, and the line and road here quit the district of Badenoch for that of Strathspey. [Aviemore is the point from which to cross the Grampians to Deeside and Braemar, by the pass of the Larig Rue (Ete. 52a). The distance to Braemar is at least 35 m., and the excursion, although one of the grand- est in Scotland, is also one of the most fatiguing, and should not be attempted witbout a guide, except by those who are well used to mountains. But a guide is not al- w'ays to be procured on this side, so that those who purpose ascending are directed as follows (the sketch outline is that of the hills as seen from the station) : — Cross the Spey by a timber bridge close to the station, and follow up the S. or 1. bank of the Morlich, passing a num- ber of saw-mills and huts occupied by the workmen engaged in cutting the forest of Eothiemurchus. Keep close to the river for nearly 2 m., where it is crossed by a stone bridge at a little hamlet ; then turn to the rt., and keep the road till it di\-ides. The one on the rt. leads to the keeper's house at Glenmore. After passing that, keep the Larig well in view, and follow the path as it in- clines again towards the river, which is again crossed by a foot-bridge near a green patch of grass. The path through the remainder of the forest must be carefully watched, for it is not always very clear. It gradually mounts till the tourist finds himself fairly at the entrance of the pass, and at a considerable height above the stream,] The country beyond Aviemore be- 302 Boute 48, — Boat of Garten ; Grantown. Sect IV. comes more picturesque, the way passing through part of the ohl forest of Dulnain, where some of the okler trees are of great size and beauty. Behind Aviemore is the lakelet of Belladron, where the rare Ktqjhar minima may be found by the bo- tanist. 88.^ m. Boat of Garten Jimd. Stat. Small Inn near Stat., 3 beds. Em- press Eugenie lodged here, 1872. The ferry boat over Spey is 100 yds. off. Branch rly. to Elgin and to Aberdeen, by Craigellachie, Duff- town, and Keith (Rte. 55b), by the Speyside branch of the Great North of Scotland Railway. On 1. is TullochgoTum, famous for its "Reel." The song was written by the Rev, J. Skinner, minister of the Episcopal ch. of Longside, Aber- deen. Tullochgorum was the original seat of the old clan Phadrick. Be- yond the river are the ruins of Castle Roy, a quadrangular fortress of the Comyns, with two square projecting towers, and high archway. There is a curious vault near the W. corner, but no history is attached to the castle. 93. m. Broomhill Stat., fiiie views of Grampians from hill above Stat. Beyond this the Dulnain joins the Spey at Bridge of Curr. Here is a timber bridge over the Spey to Bridge of Xethy. On 1. is the old tower oi Mudcerach, built in 1598 by Patrick Grant, and without that heavy solidity which is to be found in older towers. Its situ- ation, however, is very good, on the brow of a hill overhanging a pic- turesque little valley. From Broomhill Stat, the rly. runs away from the Spey to 96 m. Ch^antoicn Stat. {Inn : Grant Arms, good. Post horses, cars, etc.) A well-built and well-kept little town of granite cottages ; the wide street planted with rows of trees. There are ^j^easaw^ walks in the woods be- tween the town and the Spey 1 m. distant, and near the bridge, com- manding views over the winding river and the Grampians. It is a hive of the clan Grant. Castle Grant, seat of the Earl of Seafield, their chief, stands on a commanding height, and is a plain house like a factory or barrack, but its core is a tower, with walls 12 ft. thick, of considerable age. It has fine old trees around it. and com- mands a grand view of the Gram- pian chain ; and the deer park comes up nearly to the door. It is seldom inhabited, Cullen being a far more attractive residence. The highland games of the district are however celebrated in the park in summer, and atti'act numerous visitors. In the interior are some family portraits, and a collection of old muskets. From Grantown there is a road to Braemar and Ballater, through Tomintoul (Rte. 52). Thefstation is H m. from Grantown, beyond the Spey (Rte. 55b). Baihvays to Inverness and Perth ; Kingussie, 24 m. ; Forres, 23 m. ; to Rothes, Elgin, Keith, and Aber- nethy. Distances. — Tomintoul, 15 m. ; Ballater, 32 m. ; Braemar, 50 m. [For pedestrian route from Brae- mar to Abernethy and Grantown, by the East Larig Pass, 50 m., a jour- ney of 12 hrs., see Rte, 52a.] On quitting Grantown the line leaves Strathspey, and strikes due N"., passing rt. the entrance gate of Castle Grant ; ascending a steep range of hills, where the summit level of the ridge, dividing the Spey basin from the Findhorn, is crossed about 1050 ft. above the sea, afford- ing magnificent \'iews on the N. of Scuirvullion and the mountains of Sutherland, and on the S. of Ben Muich-Dhui and the Cairngorms. Nearly at the top of the ridge is 104 J m. Dava Stat., in a wide. Scotland. Route 40. — Perth to Dundee. 303 dreary, heathery peat moss, under the Knock of Brae Moray. On an island in the lake of Loch-an-Dorbh on 1. stand the remains of the Castle, the principal stronghold of the Comyns, a feudal fortress, quad- rangular keep, with round towers at the corners, and at the side nearest the mainland protected by double connecting walls. E emote and appa- rently inaccessible as Loch-an-Dorbh seems, K. Edward I. deemed it neces- sary to put down the strength of the Comyns, and marched a large army, Sept. 25, 130-3, to lay siege to it. He took it, and the existing remains are of a castle probably built by him. Thence the rly. , crossing a lofty via- duct over the Divie, descends to 111 m. Dun-pliail (Stat.), close to the village of Edinkillie and Glen Furncss, the property of the Earl of Leven, situated on the banks of the Divie. Dunphail Castle (1.) the seat of Lord Thurlow. From Dunphail Stat, the pedes- trian may with advantage Avalk to Forres, along the beautiful banks of the Divie and Findhorn, entering Lord Murray's domain at Logic {see Rte. 55), about 9 m. Relugas also is near this stat. The rly. traverses the fine fir-woods of Altyre (Sir Wm. Gordon Cumming, Bart.), and leav- ing on rt. Sanquhar House (C. E. Fraser Tytler, Esq. ), soon reaches 119 m. Forres Junc. Stat. Buff"et. For an account of Forres, as well as of the railway from Forres to In- verness and to Aberdeen, see Rte. 55. EOUTE 49. Perth to Dundee and Arbroath.. (Rail.) During the summer a steamer occasionally plies between Dundee and Perth, according to tide. Fiaihva.y. — 7 trains daily to Dun- dee, in 1 hour from Princes-st. Stat. Perth {see Rte. 4.3). After skirting the S. Inch, it crosses the Tay on a long low wooden bridge, and follows the I. bank of the Firth of Tay, winding round the base of Kinnoul Hill to 3 m. Kiafaiins Stat. On 1. Kin- faAins Castle, on an eminence over- looking the Tay, is tlie seat of Lord Gray. The land originally belonged to tlie Charteris family. The Castle was built in 182"2, by Smirke, and contains a fine library and some good pictures : — G-uercino, Peter denying Christ ; F. Francia, Virgin and Child ; A. del Sarto, male portrait ; Titian, Head of a female ; Pt,em- brandt, the Banished Lord ; Rubens, male head. On 1. the Sidlaio Hills stretch N.E. On the opposite side of the river, under Moncrieff Hill, are the ruins of Elcho Castle, a plain, gloomy- looking building of the 16th centy. In the neighbourhood of (7 m.) Glencarse Stat, are Glencarse (T. Greig, Esq.) and rt. Pitfour (Sir J. S. Richardson), formerly the pro- perty of the Hays. 11 m. Errol Stat, and Errol Park (G. Armitstead, Esq.) The Parish Church was rebuilt in Romanesque style, 1832, Gillespie Graham, archt. The district is very rich in legends and folk lore, much of which, such as the tales of Greensleeves, Kin- noul Rock Diamond, the Devil's Porridge-pot, the reader will find at length in Chambers' "Pictures of Scotland." 10 m. 1. are Megginch Castle (J. M. Drummond, Esq.), an old resi- dence of the Errol family, built in the 16th centy. ; Fingask Castle (Sir Patrick M. Threipland), which con- tains an interesting and complete collection of Jacobite relics, the house of Threipland having been one of the most devoted to the cause of the 304 Route 49. — Perth to Dundee ; Bossie. Sect. IV. Stuarts. The gardens are good ex- amples of Dutch gardening. The old keep of Kinnaird Castle (restored) is not far off. About 2 m. to the N. is Dunsinane Hill (1114 ft.), the site of the castle celebrated in " ]\Iac- beth." It is crowned by a hill fort of several successive ramparts of loose stones. It overlooks the coun- try to and far beyond Birnam Hill. 134 m. Inchtitrc Stat. ; 3 m. to the N. is Eossie Priory (Lord Kin- naird), situated on the slope of Eos- sie Hill, which commands a fine and extensive vieAV over the Firth of Tay and the Carse of Gowrie. It Avas built in 1817, and contains a valu- able collection of pictures : amongst them are — Vamhjck, Portrait of a Lady, painted in his Genoese man- ner ; Gainsborough, Portrait of a Man, delicately executed in a cool tone ; Guido Reni, the Repentant Magdalene, tenderh^ executed in a broken and harmonious tone ; L. da Vinci, beautiful portrait of a Lady, called La Columbine ; Sassofcrrato, Virgin and Child, a particularly fine example ; P. Veronese, Kneeling "Woman at Altar ; L. Caracci, Re- pentant Magdalene ; A. del Sarto, Portrait of a Man, one of his finest pieces ; Michael Angelo, or more probably Marcello Venusti, the Cruci- fixion ; Rubens, Portrait of a Man, of great freshness of conception ; Rem- brandt, Portrait of a Man, signed and dated 1666 ; Tintoretto, Conver- sion of St. Paul, spirited ; Sir J. Rey- nolds, a good replica of the Banished Lord, in the National Gallery. — fV. There are some fine pieces of sculp- ture and interesting antiquities. The grounds of Eossie are very pretty, and are ornamented by a campanile tower, with a very sweet peal of bells. 15^ m. Longf organ Stat. Between the village and the rly, is Castle Huntly (G. Paterson, Esq.), standing on a high rock, perpendicular to the S. W. , but sloping off" to the E. The tower, to which some very taste- less additions have been made, was built on the foundations of a still older one by Sir A. Gray, Master of the Household to James II., in 1452, and the present building now con- sists of — 1, the original tower ; 2, the Castellum de Huntly of 1452 ; 3, additions by the Earls of Strath- more ; and 4, the wings added by Mr. Paterson in 1778. Castle Huntly was sold to the Earl of Strathmore in 1615, and its name changed to Castle Lyon. On rt. are the ruins of Dron Chapel, a branch establishment be- longing to the monastery of Cupar. For the latter part of the way the rly. skirts the edge of the Tay ; it is cai-ried on huge substructions through the deserted stone quarries of Kin- goodie, near 17^ m. Tnvergou'rie Stat. Here the line enters the county of Forfar. At the head of a bay on the N. shore of the Tay is the small mouldering ruin of Invergoivrie Ch. , an old build- ing, chiefly of 15th centy., but claim- ing a greater antiquity, because founded in the 12th centy. Adjoining is the burial-place of Lord Gray. On 1. is Gra}^ House (Lord Gray), and Camperdown (Lord Camper- down), a modern house, with Ionic portico. To the N. W. of Gray House is Foulis Easter Church. Near the door are the " jougs" for confining drunken or refractory persons. In- side the ch. is a fragment of the original oak Roodscreen, with painted panels of the Crucifixion, and other Bible subjects. The rlv. from Strathmore, Newtyle, and ]\Ieigle, 10^ m. (Ete. 50), falls in a little way from Neivtyle June. Stat. At Lochee, now a suburb of Dun- Forfar. Route 49. — Dundee. 305 dee, not far from the Den of !Mains, is Claverhouse, theijatrimony of John Graham of Claverhouse, Viscouut Dundee, the hero of Killiecrankie. The rly. approaches the extremity of The Great Tay Pudlway Bridge, begun 1871, to convey the N. B. Rly. directly into Dundee from Leu- chars Stat, without resorting to the ferry, over the Estuary, here 2 miles wide, may be completed in 1876-7. It is 10,320 ft. long from shore to shore, resting on 88 piers, some of brick, which were partly built on the bank and floated to their places, and lowered by means of hydraulic rams, the rest of iron cylinders. It con- sists of 89 spans, varying in width, one on the N. shore of 160 ft., on iron bowstring girders ; while 14 in the centre, over the navigable chan- nel, are of the great width of 200 ft., giving a clear headway of 88 ft. above liigli water. The difficulty of constructing these wide spans was enhanced by the rocky nature of the river bed, and the strong current of the tides. The engineer is Mr. Th. Bouch, of Edinburgh. The cost will be at least £2oO,o6'0. 21^ m. Dundee West Stat. (Perth and Forfar Railways), at the water- side, close to the docks, and about 100 yds. from the Arbroath and Broughty Ferry Stat., now connected by a tunnel. {Inns : Royal Hotel, Nether- gate, opposite the Town Ch. and Tower ; British Hotel, in Castle-st., neither first-rate. ) The town of Dundee occupies a favourable position on the N. side of the Firth of Tay, not far from its mouth, on two hills, sloping gently to the water. It is a flourishing seaport and pari, burgh, ranking third in all Scotland for population (118,977), shipping, and trade, whilst it is also one of the most important seats of the Manufacture of Linen {Flux) ; but its special staple is Jute. [Scotland.] At the waterside, between the West and East Railway Stations, are the Bocks, named after Earl Grey, King William, Victoria, and Camperdown, occupying an area of 33^ acres, filled with shipping from the Baltic, the East Indies, etc. An Archioay, sin- gular rather than beautiful, called Royal, because built in honour of Queen Victoria's visit, 1844, leads, between Grey and King William Docks, to the Pier. Union-st., near the West Stat, and Castle-st., opposite the Royal Arch, lead up into the broad High-st. , in which is the steepled Town House. Opposite to it runs Ileform-st., the chief thoroughfare in the town, but not beholden to the architecture of its buildings. In Nethergate, the continuation of High-st., rises the Old Steeple (St. Mary's), one of the finest Gothic towers in Scotland, dating from the 14th cent., though attributed to a vow of David, Earl of Huntingdon, brother of King William (when in danger of shipwreck), to build a ch. to the Virgin on the spot where he should first step on shore. It is a massive structure, 156 ft. high. In 1651, when General Monk assaulted Dundee — at that time a place of re- fuge for the Royalists driven out of other cities, with much of their pro- perty — this tower was occupied by the garrison, and held out until burning straw was applied below. Lumsden, the governor, was slain here, but the stories of indiscri- minate massacre of the inhabitants by Monk are believed to be fabulous. The tower was restored in 1872, by Sir Gilbert Scott — who, it is hoped, may be furnished with funds by the Dundee citizens to complete it with the crown of open stonework which once surmounted it, like that of St. Giles's, Edinburgh. The ch. belong- ing to it was destroyed by the English, under Edward I.,"^1295 ; and again, 1548. Three modern churches have come to attach themselves to it. In o 9 306 Route 4 9 . — Dundee. Sect. IV the E. cli. some ancient portions re- main, and in the ch. -yard some old grave slabs, carved with crosses, etc., are stowed away. The only other bit of antiquity is the Old Port, in Cowgate, not far from Baxter's mills. George Wish- art, the Reformer, having heard tliat the plague was raging in Dundee, came hither to give the consolations of religion to the stricken, and chose this building whence he might preach to them outside the gate, and to the sound assembled within. Not long after Wishart was executed at St. Andrews by order of Cardinal Beaton, but it must be borue in mind that at the very time he was conspiring to kill the Cardinal. Eeform-st. leads into an irregular open space, in the middle of which is the Albert Institution (Gothic, by Sir Gilbert Scott), containing Public Free Librar}"-, Hall, and Assembly Eooms, surmounted hy a spire ; a curved staircase leads up to the en- trance. On the N. side is the Hiqh School, with a Greek portico, and the Gothic Exclianrjc, with square tower and News-rooms. On the S. side the Eastern Club. None of these build- ings rise much above mediocrity in art. St. PauVs Ejnscopal Ch., in Castle- st., is one of the most successful of Sir Gilbert Scott's Gothic churches, and has an elegant tower and spire, 210 ft. high. It occupies the site of the Castle of Dundee. On the north side of the town are the Justiciary and Sheriff- Court Houses, a large classical pile of buildings. There are also two People's Parks, one the gift of the late millionaire of Dundee, Sir David Baxter, Bart. : good places of exercise for the natives, but Nvith no special attraction. A visitor with time on his hands and muscles to his legs may ascend Bim- dee Law, 535 ft., and enjoy a view of the Firth of Tay, the Bell Rock Lighthouse, St. Andrews, and the Tay Bridge. The town of Dundee bristles with nearly 100 stalks of tall chimneys, and abounds in great Mills, all built of freestone. In these are carried on the staple manufactures of the place — Flax and Linen. The largest in that line are Messrs. Baxter Brothers' spinning mill, in King-st. ; 25,000 persons are employed here in that trade, and the value of the annual export of linen is nearly £3,000,000. The spinning and weaving of Jute, second in importance only to that of flax, is almost a speciality at Dundee, and was introduced by the spirit of enterprise, when Russian hemp was rendered scarce and dear by the Crimean war. It is the fibre of a Bengal annual plant [Corchorus cap- sularis), 8 ft. high, with a stem no thicker than the finger. It is imported hither direct from Cal- cutta to the extent of 100,000 tons per annum, worth (say) £700,000, which, when manufactured, realise £2,000,000. It is chiefly converted into sacking. The grand Jtite Mills of Messrs. Gilroy, in Lochee Road, have nearly 60 windows in a row, and are 5 storeys high ; they employ 1500 persons, chiefly women. Cox's Mills, N.W. of the town, at Lochee, are even larger. The outside of the mills is all that the tourist is likely to see, as there is a great indisposition on the part of the millowners to admit strangers, unless properly introduced. Per- haps when he has seen the dust and heard the noise that proceeds from Baxter's mill, he will not be so anxious to go inside. At present there are 72 power-loom firms, own- ing 8000 power-looms and 203,000 spindles. Dundee enjoys a curious speciality in its manufacture of Marmalade, of which about 1000 tons are turned out annually by Keiller and Co., requir- Forfar. Route 49. — Dundee to Arbroath. 30' ing at least 3000 cliests of bitter oranges and 3000 tons of sugar. As an instance of the collateral require- ments of the trade, upwards of a million and a half of jars are fur- nished from Newcastle annually. Hector Boece, the most untrust- worthy of Scottish annalists, was horn in Dundee, in the middle of the loth cent, ; also Adm. Duncan. A steamer to Perth. Steamers to Newcastle and London. Ferry steamers to Newport, on the S. side of the Tay, 10 or 12 times a day. Railways. — To Edinburgh (involv- ing 2 steam ferries), by Broughty Ferry, Cupar, Lady bank Junct., Thornton Junct., Burntisland Ferry, and Granton, 50f m. ; by Perth and Stirling, 92 m. Distances. — Broughty Ferrj^ 2 m. ; Newburgh, by water, 10 ; St. An- drews, 14^ ; Leuchars, 9 J ; Edin- burgh, 50| ; Perth, 21 J. [Those who wish to go due N. to Blairgowrie and Braemar, can do so without making a detour to Perth or Arbroath, via the Newtyle Ply., which joins the main line at New- tyle, 16 m. There is little to see on the way, the country not being par- ticularly striking, although it im- proves as the line is carried through the Sidlaw Hills.] Railway to Arbroath. — From the East Stat. Dundee, the trains run to 23^ m. Broughty Ferry Junct. Stat. (Rte. 40). A colony of villa resid- ences of Dundee merchants. On rt. are the ruins of Broughty Castle, oc- cupied by the English in 1547, after the victory of Musselburgh. It was stormed by the French auxiliaries, in the Scotch service, in 1550, and dis- mantled. Of late years, however, it has been repaired and fortified to guard the entrance of the Ta}^ which it commands. Here passengers going S. to Edin- burgh diverge across the ferry. Steamers cross the ferry to Tay- port several times a day, correspond- ing with the trains either way to Edinburgh, by Burntisland, to Cupar, Kinross, and to St. Andrews (Rte. 40). Near Broughty, the direct rly. to Forfar, 214 m., turns N. 26 m. Monifieth Stat. On rt. is the promontory called Buddon Ness, conspicuous at night by the Tay lighthouse. 28 m. Between Barry Stat, and 32 m. Carnoustie, a dreary tract is passed, known as the Carnoustie Sands. This name signifies the " Cairns of Heroes," and refers to a number of tumuli to be seen here. It is said that they mark the graves of the Scots who fell in battle near this village when the Danes, under Camus, were defeated by Malcolm IL 34 m. to the 1. is East Haven. 3 m. is Panmure, a seat of the Earl of Dalhousie, a modern Scotch castle by Bryce. The pillar upon a hill in front is a monument to the 1st Lord Panmure. 38 m. Arbroath Stat. {Inns : Albion ; ^Yhite Hart), a well-built and busy town and pari, burgh, Pop. 19,974, possessing some good shops, a har- bour neither commodious nor of easy access, and manufactures of coarse linen canvas. It is the Fair- port of Sir Walter Scott's "Anti- quary." Its unabbreviated name is Aberbrothoek, from its situation at the mouth of the Brothock river. It was made a ro3'al burgh by William the Lion, to whom the town is also indebted for its 308 Route 49. — Arbroath ; Bell Rock. Sect. IV. Abbey, founded 1178, and dedi- cated (1233) to St. Thomas a Becket. Its remains are very disjointed and fragmentary, but they are grand in position, picturesque in outline, and in the colour of the dark red sand- stone. " I should scarcel}" have re- gretted my journey," wrote Dr. Johnson, " had it afforded nothing more than the sight of Aberbro- thock." It seems to have been very spacious, and enclosed a large portion of the present to^Yn, though its establishment consisted only of an abbot and 24 monks. The ke3's of the ch. are kept in a cottage close by the W. entrance. The Church was 270 ft. long— 10 ft. longer than the Cathedral of Elgin — and consisted of nave of 8 bays, with aisles, transept with aisles, and chancel. It is a very fine example of the First Pointed style, and even though the grand and deeply moulded IF. doorway is cir- cular, its mouldings are of that style. Above the W. entrance porch is a Gallery of 6 fine Pointed arches opening into the nave. The entire N. wall of the ch, is gone, along with piers and pier-arches, only S. side, and E. and W. end, with the bases of 2 towers, remaining. For many years the municipal authorities were in the habit of selling the materials (without giving any account of the proceeds), which is the cause of the disappearance of so much of the building. This nefarious practice was stopped in 1815, by order of the Barons of the Exchequer, who, by seasonable re- pairs, saved the remainder. King John granted leave to the monks and burgesses of Aberbroth- wdck to trade without molestation or tax with any place in England, except the city of London. In 1320 a general assembly of the estates of Scotland was held in the abbey, when a spirited declaration was drawn up of the independence of the Scottish Kingdom of the Eng- lish Crown, and a protest against any | interference by the Pope or his legates. Amongst the abbots of Aberbrothockwere the three Beatons, the Cardinal, David, and two Arch- bishops James, one the uncle and the other the nephew of the Cardinal : also Gawin Douglas, the translator of Virgil. The entrance to the enclosure of the abbey is through a fine Gothic Gateway, constructed for defence, and once furnished with barbacan, drawbridge, and j)ortcullis. The grave of K. "William is pointed out in front of the high altar. The windows at the E. end consisted of 3 divisions, each one of 3 lancets, deej)ly embayed ; above was a fine rose window, as at the W. end. It was called the of Arbroath ; and, lighted from within, once served for a beacon, as it faces the sea. At this day a spire at the end of the abbey property, when seen through it, is a guide to ships entering the harbour, Tlie S. Aval] of the nave is still standing, as well as i)art of the S. transept ; and attached to it is the Chapter house, still perfect in walls and roof. It is surrounded with sedilia. Among the monuments pre- served in it is part of a sculptured figure, with feet resting on a lion, su])posed, on this slight foundation, to be the effigy of the founder. But upon the figure, which is draped more like that of an ecclesiastic than a king, "figures of knights in full armour are clambering up : one appears to be struggling with the drapery below, another has reached the waist ; and the fracture which is across the shoulder leaves dangling the mailed heels of two others, which must have reached the neck. Is it possible that there can be here any reference to the slaughter of Becket, to whom the abbey was dedi- cated?" Of the abbot's house the kitchen is still visi])le on the S. side of the abbey church, and in the High Street a portion of the abbey buildings re- Scotland. Boute id. — Arbroath; Red Head. 309 mains in tlie shape of a tower, now used as a butcher's shop. A fine ballad of South ey has im- mortalised the abbots of Aberbro- thock for their munificent humanity in establishing and maintaining a bell beacon on that dangerous reef of rocks in the German Ocean, which is supposed to have received its name of the " Bell Rock" from this cir- cumstance, but it is probably only a legend. " The Abbot of Aberbrothock Had pLaced that bell on the Inchcape rock ; On a buoy in the storm it floated and swung, And over the waves its warning rung. When the rock was hid by the surge's swell The mariners heard the warning bell ; And then they knew the perilous rock, And blessed the Abbot of Aberbrothock. " A lighthouse was erected upon it in 1810 at an expense of £60,000. It was suggested by R. Stevenson (the father of the present celebrated lighthouse engineers, D. and T. Stevenson), that the "Bell " obtained its name from the domed form of the rock. The Abbot of Arbroath had the custody of the Brechbannach or sacred banner of St. Columba, for which the lands of Forglen in Banffshire were given to the abbey. As, however, the banner required to be followed to the field of battle, it remained really in the hands of laymen, while the Church received the pecuniary ad- vantages attached to the duty. The town of Arbroath is, like Dundee, dependent on its mills for linens and canvas, of Avhich there are a considerable number. Flag- stones, too, of old red sandstone are exported under the name of " Arbroath pavement. " Conveyances from Arbroath. — Rail to Dundee, 17 m., and to Guthrie JuNCT. 8 m., for Forfar and Aber- deen. At Carmijlie 3Tanse, 6 m. S. E. of Forfar, the reapmg-machine was in- vented by the Rev. Patrick Bell, 1826, It continued in use till 1868. [The pedestrian should not omit an excursion along the coast to Mon- trose, distance from 16 to 17 miles. The cliff" scenery is remarkably fine. If time is short, he may go to Auch- mithie by road, 3-^ m. , but in so doing he will miss some curious objects. On the top of the cliffs, about 1^ m. from Auchmithie, are an entrenched fort called Lud's Castle, and a sin- gular chasm known as the FoL The caves are down below, and should be visited from Auchmithie in a boat, unless it is very low water, when they may be reached on foot. The Lady's Cave obtains its name in consequence of the light falling in such a way as to resemble a veiled figure. Another is the Mason's Cave, from the appear- ance of the rocks at the entrance, which look as if they had been built up artificially ; while another is the Green Cave, on account of the luxuri- ance of the hart's-tongue fern {Scolo- 2)endrium vulgarc) ; Asplenium ma- rinum also grows here, A uchmithie is an exceedingly primi- tive fishing village, with a public- house, the "Mussel Crag " of Scott's "Antiquary." From thence keep the cliff-road, passing on I, the dark woods of Ethie, on the estate of the Earl of Northesk, 2 m, 1, is Anniston, the seat of Col. Rait, At Red Head the cliff's are magnifi- cently grand and precipitous, and an additional interest is imparted by their being the scene of the escape of Sir Arthur and Miss Wardour in the "Antiquary." From this point the coast trends inward, forming the graceful curve of Lunan Bay. About the centre stands Red Castle, an old fortress of William the Lion. From its colour and position it is a strik- ing object, though little is left but a portion of a tower, and a long Avall of very thick masonry. Below the castle the mouth of tlie Lunan can be 310 Route 49. — Arbroath. Sect. IV. crossed by a rude bridge of poles, which demand some care. But there is a stone bridge a little higher up, close to the mansion of Lunan (Capt. Blair-Imrie), There is a curious story, that a Dutch vessel was once wrecked in Lunan Bay, and that the captain and crew were treated with great kindness by the parish clerk, whose daughter the captain ulti- mately married. He returned to Amsterdam, was promoted to a situation by his employers, ulti- mately became a partner in the house, and his descendants, under the name of Baring, are now members of the British peerage. Should the tourist wish to strike inland here, he can proceed up the valley of the Lunan to Inverkeilor. Ascending the cliffs again from the sands of Lunan, he comes on Buckie Den, a beautiful little "den," running steeply to the sea. Passing Bodclom, where are some limekilns, the next callage is Uson, inhabited by fishermen. On 1. is Dunninald (Miss Arkley). A little past Uson is the ancient bury- ing-ground, overlooking the Eock of St. Skecigli, a very picturesque and singular trap-rock, jutting sharply out from the red sandstone. Its seaward end is perforated by natural archways, and is covered with lichens. The geologist should not omit going down and examining it. 1^ m. be- yond Uson, in a field by the rocks, is a small burying-ground of the families of Williamson and Scott. Uson House is the residence of G. Keith, Esq., and some distance beyond is Rossie, the seat of — M 'Donald, Esq., a very beautiful place, overlooking the estuary of the Esk. From L^son House the road leads through a pretty avenue of trees to the village of Ferry den, Avhere a ferry-boat conveys the tourist to Montrose (Rte. 50).] From Arbroath the rly. turns sharp to the 1. and runs inland up the valley of the Brothock, past Colliston Stat, (attached to the old ch. of St. Vigeans. In the church- yard are some curious sculptured stones) and LeysiniU Stat., to 8 m. Guthrie Junct., where the main line from Perth to Aberdeen is met (Rte. 50). SECTION V. Aberdeen — Forfar — Deeside — Braemar — Strathspey — Elgin- Banff — Nairn — The Cairngorm Mountains. INTRODUCTIOK 1. Gcnerallnformation. § 2. Deer Forests. § 3. Places of Inten ROUTES. 50 Perth to Aberdeen, by Cupar - Angus, Forfar- {Brechin), Montrose, and Stonehaven . 51 Kirriemuir to Ballater and Braemar, by Glen Clova . 51a Brechin to Glenshee, by JVest Water, Clova, Glen Prosen, and Glenisla. For Pedestrians 51b Brechin to Ballater, by Ed- zell and Glenmark 51c Brechin to Banchory, by Edzell, Fettercairn, and the Cairnmount 52 Aberdeen to Braemar, by Banchory, Ahoyne, Ballater, (Rail), and Balmoral 52a Braem,ar to Aviemore, by lAnn of Dee, Wells of Dee, and the Larig Rue Pass. [Ascents of Ben Muieh-Dhui and Loch A' an {Avon)] PAGE I ROUTE PAGE 52b Braemar to Dunk eld, by Spital of Glenshee, Bridge 315 of Cally (Pitlochrie) and Blairgowrie . . .347 326 52c Braemar to Blair-Athole, by Bainoch and Glen tilt . 349 53 Aberdeen to Fraserburgh and Peterhead . . .351 329 54 Aberdeen to Alford and Strathdon, by Kintore . 354 331 55 Aberdeen to Inverness, by Huntly, Keith, Elgin, For- res, and Nairn (Great 333 North of Scotland Eail- wat) . . . .358 55a Aberdeen to Banff, by In- 334 veramsay, Fyvie, & Turriff 370 55b Perth to Elgin, by Craigel- lacMe and Rothes, and to BanflF, by Craigellachie, Dufftown, and Keith Junc- 342 tion (Rail) . . .374 § 1. General Information. The country traversed by the following group of Routes compre- hends the Cairngorm Grampians — some of the highest mountains of Scotland, and most impressive in their scenery. Ben Muich-Dhui is the monarch of the group, surrounded by the almost equally lofty Cairntoul, Braeriach, Cairngorm, Ben-a-Bourd, Ben-A'an. These granite giants hang over the " Wells of Dee," the source of that grand river on whose banks our queen has fixed her quiet and 312 § 1. General Information. Sect. V. sunny residence, where, backed by another giant, most Alpine of peaks — Lochnagar — and surrounded by a circle of mountains, she enjoys a retirement more complete than any other part of her dominions could afford. At the base of their conchoidal and j)reci- pitous corries sleep the romantic tarns of Loch Muick, Loch Dhu, Lochnagar, and Loch Avon, "in the bosom of beauty." The headquarters for exploring this region is Castleton of Brae- mar, distant from 18 to 20 m. from the mountain summits men- tioned above ; and as there is no Inn or place of refuge nearer than the vale of the Spey — 15 m. farther — to visit their summits and re- cesses is a feat not unAYorthy a member of the Alpine Club. To hardy pedestrians the excursion to the source of the Dee, perhaps the highest source in Britain, the Pass of Larig, Loch Avon, and Loclinagar, are specially recommended. They will nowhere find valleys or gorges narrower, corries or precipices loftier — hitherto little explored or known. If more convenient, they may begin their walks on the S., or by the Forfarshire side of the mountains, by as- cending the romantic Glen Clova — paradise of plants and flowers ; or from the N. boundary of the district. Strathspey ; or from Athole, by Glentilt. Strathspey, a glorious valley, skirting the N. roots of the Gram- pian range, and commanding most attractive views of their (even in sunmier) snow- dotted peaks, presents, by the Glen of Avon and other tributaries, many gaps of access to their recesses. Parallel with this chain, N. of the Spey, the chain of the Mouadh Leadli, from whose sides springs the Findhorn — romantic and ruthless stream, dear to salmon-fishers and artists — studded with lovely seats, Dun- phail, Altyre, Belugas, Glen Furness, Darnaway, etc. For easy-going travellers, a carriage-road exists from Dunkeld or Pitlochrie by Spittal of Glenshee ; while from Aberdeen a Bailway will carry them to Ballater, whence it is a drive of 18 m. to Brae- mar. On the outskirts of this range, besides the lovely valleys of the North and South Esk, attention must be called to the very grand Cliff Scenery on the sea-shore, from Stonehaven to the mouth of the Dee — including the Bullars of Buchan and Dunottar Castle. The district is by no means barren in Antiquities, though they are confined to its outskirks, in the fertile valleys, etc., or the roots of the hills — such are the primitive but huge constructions, the Stone Forts, called Catertuns (Bte. 51a). This is the country of the Sculptured Stones — rude monuments, but deftly carved in relief, with figures of men and animals, patterns of interlacing knots, mixed with strange symbols, the meaning of Introi). §2. Deer Forests ; Agriculture; Inns. 313 which has never been explained : such as a figure like the letter Z, two circles joined, resembling a pair of spectacles ; some bear the Christian cross, combined with figures of dragons and other mon- sters, reseml)ling the elephant or walrus, similar to the peculiar figures on early Irish illuminated MSS. The date assigned to them is the 8th or 9th cent. They occur most frequently, and almost ex- clusively, in the country between the mouth of the Tay and the shores of the Moray Firth. Among the chief examples — the Stones at Forres (Sueno's), Meigle, Aberlemno, Largo, Forteviot, and Elgin Cath., may be specified. Ecclesiastical remains of high interest occur at Brechin, whose Round Tower resembles those of Ireland, in the Church and College of Aberdeen, the magnificent ruins of Elgin Cathedral and Chapter-House, and the less extensive remains of Pluscardine. In no part of the United Kingdom are so many grand inhdbitecl Castles as in Aberdeen and Nairnshires, built in a peculiar and very picturesque style — partly as defensible houses, sometimes with draw- bridge and portcullis, and always with bracketted angle-turrets or bartizans. Among the finest of these are Glamis and Cawdor, Fyvie, Castle Frazer, Kildrummie, Craigievar, Glenbucket, and Edzell in ruins. There is no lack of more modern mansions and seats — the princely Gordon Castle, Aboyne, Haddo, Invercauld, Castle Forbes, Cortachy, and, at the head of all, the Regal Balmoral — an admirable specimen of the Scottish style of architecture revived. § 2. Deer Forests ; Agriculture ; Ixns. Deer Forests. — A large part of the main and moorland of Aber- deenshire and the adjoining counties is kept as a preserve for deer, and large rentals, as is well known, are paid for the exclusive rights of shooting over them ; but unfortunately the best time for rambling about the hills is also the season for deerstalking, when the lairds and owners of shootings use their utmost endeavours to keep tourists from all but the strict road, and in many cases try, through their keepers, to prevent them following certain valleys or ascending cer- tain mountains. On the part of the owners, tourists should remem- ber that it is very hard that the deer should be disturbed, and the whole day's shooting disarranged, simply because people will stray out of the regular road and wander about at their own sweet will. On the other hand, it is a moot point whether a mountain can be closed to tourists. The best plan is for them to adhere as closely as possible to the path, and not to trespass on enclosures or forests — so [Scotland.] p 314 § 3. Places of Interest. Sect. V. that, in case of attempts on the part of keepers to bar the passage, the onus of proving their right to do so will lie with the proprietors. Aberdeenshire is divided into several districts — Mar in the S., Buchan in the N.E., Garioch traversed by the Urie, and Formartin in the centre ; and though once possessed by a great Celtic popu- lation, Gaelic is not at all spoken, except in the Braemar district. The present inhabitants are partly of Saxon or Flemish, and partly of Norwegian and Danish origin, and speak a patois peculiar to themselves. It is somewhat like the dialect spoken in the lowlands, but much sharper : for example, what is always fat ; boots, beets, etc. , Diminutives are also used very freely. For several excel- lent anecdotes illustrating the dialect, see " Dean Eamsay's Re- miniscences of Scottish Character," a most excellent and amusing work. In no portion of Scotland have greater industry and skill been ex- hibited, or more capital invested, in agricultural pursuits, than here, and that with a soil naturally wet and cold, and a climate so unpro- pitious that it has been described a? divided into two seasons — " nine months winter, and three months bad weather." Consequently wheat is seldom sown here, and 100,000 acres of arable land are devoted to oats and turnips. From skilful management of the turnip crop this district has become one of the chief meat-producers in Britain, and sends copious supplies both of live cattle and dead meat to the London market. On the week preceding Christmas more than 2000 head of cattle, besides sheep, are sent up to London from the mar- kets of Aberdeenshire, Banff, etc. The 1)171 accommodation is as good as in any part of the High- lands. At Aberdeen there are numerous hotels. There are good Inns at Braemar (2), Glen CI ova, Alford, Inverurie, Grantown, Forres, Ellon, Newburgh, Banff, Abernethy, Craigellachie, Fochabers, and Kingussie. Many of the landlords have fishings to let. (See "Sportsman's Time- Tables and Guide to the Rivers and Moors of Scotland.") § 3. Places of Interest. Meigle. — ^lonuments in churchyard ; Alyth ; Airlie Castle ; Den of Airlie ; Slug of Auchrannie. Kirnhnuir. — Cortachy Castle ; Glen Clova ; Glen Dole ; Loch Brandy ; Loch Fee ; Glen Prosen (Rare Ferns). Forfiir. — Glamis Castle ; Restennet Priory ; Aberlemno Forts ; Melgund Castle ; Guthrie Castle. Brechin. — Cathedral ; Round Tower ; Caterthun Forts ; Edzell Castle ; the Burn ; scenery of West Water ; Fettercairn ; Slack of the Birnie. Scotland. Route 50. — Perth to Aberdeen. 315 Montrose. — Museum ; Basin ; Links ; Den Finella ; Bervie Cliff scenery. Laurencekirk. — Kincardine Castle. Stonehaven. — Dunnottar Castle ; Muchalls House. Blairgowrie. — Kirkmichael antiquities ; Glenshee. Braemar. — Invercauld ; Falls of Corrymulzie ; Linn of Quoich ; Linn of Dee ; Wells of Dee ; Cairngorm ; Ben Muich-Dhui ; Loch- nagar ; Loch Callater ; Loch Avon. Ballater. — Pannanich Wells ; Byron's lodging ; Pass of Ballater ; Burn of the Vat ; Glen ]\Iuick ; Abergeldie Castle ; Balmoral. Ahoyne. — Castle ; Earthworks ; Lumphanan Peel Bog. Banchory. — Crathes Castle ; scenery of the Dye and Feugh. Dinim. — Castle ; Dykes ; Corbie Den. harbour ; Cathedral ; King's College Union Street ; Court-houses ; Marif^chal A herdeen. — Pi er and Chapel ; Brig o' Balgownie College ; Granite Works. Peterhead. — Quarries ; Slaines Castle. Kintore. — Castle Frazer. Alford. — Craigievar ; Kildrummie Castle ; Towie Castle bucket Castle ; Colquhanny Castle ; Dune of Invernochty. Tui-riff. — Church ; Fyvie Castle. Banff. — Duff House ; Craigstone Castle ; Vale of Deveron. Huntly. — Castle; Stones of Strathbogie ; Gordon Schools Huntly Lodge ; Hill of Noth. Bullers of Buchan ; Coast Scenery ; Glen- ROUTE 50. Perth to Aberdeen, by Cupar- Angus, Forfar, Brechin, Mon- trose, and Stonehaven. Perth, described in Ete. 43. There is another road to Aberdeen via Dundee and Arbroath (Rte. 49), The line to Diuikeld (Rte. 48) is fol- lowed as far as 7? m. Stanley Junct,, where the Forfar Ely. branches off to the rt., keeping the rt. bank of the Tay, which is crossed at 11 m. Cargill Stat., at the conflu- ence of the rivers Tay and Isla. 14 m. to the 1. of the stat. are the ruins of Stohhall, the seat of Sir John Drummond, whose daughter married Robert III., and became Queen of Scotland. In the angle formed by the junc- tion of the Tay and Isla (to the N. of Cargill) is the village of Meikleour, with Roman remains in the shape of camp and praetorium. On a height commanding the junction of the rivers is a noble mansion-house, built 1873 by Bryce for the Marchion- ess of Lansdowne. Another camp may be visited a little to the E. of 134 m- Woodside Stat. 154 na. Cupar- Angus Junct. [Hence a branch line is given off on 1. to Blairgowrie, the route thence by the Spital of Glenshee to Brae- mar (Rte. 52b). 1 31 G Boute 50. — Perth to Aberdeen : Cupar- Angus. Sect. Y. Cupar-Angus {Hotels: Stratlimore Arms ; Kailway), distinguislied from Cupar in Fifeshire by the addition of Angus, the old name for the county of Forfar. The town stands on the borders of Perth and Forfarshire, and on the bank of the Isla, and possesses some factories for the coarser kinds of linen. An abbe}^ was founded here in 1164 by Malcolm IV. for Cistercian monks, but it had been getting out of repair before the Reformation, and its rain was completed at that time. The only vestiges of this once mag- nificent structure are in the X. angle of the present churchyard, on the side of the road to Dundee. To the 1. of the town is Hallybur- ton, the seat of Lord J. F. Gordon Hally burton. 18 m. Ardhr Stat. A branch on rt. is given off to Newtyle and Dun- dee (Rte. 49). 21 m. MeigJe Junct. Stat. {Inn: Belmont Arms), the town lying 1 m. to the N. In the ch.-yard are Sculjiturccl Stones, representing the story of Prince Arthur's wife, Yanora (or Guinever ?), who was captured by the Picts. Her husband some time afterwards rescued her, but finding that she had been seduced during the separation, sentenced her to be torn in pieces by wild beasts, which is supposed to be depicted upon the stones. Some regard them as hunt- ing scenes. Near Meigle is Belmont Castle (Lord Wharncliffe). [A short branch of 5 m. is given off to Alyth, a small town with some coarse linen factories, lying pleasantly on the southern slope of the Grampian dis- tiict. In its neighbourhood is Paith- ven, for many years the seat of the Crichton family. Ruthven House (Mrs. Ogilvie) is modern, pleasantly situated on the river Isla, near the site of the ancient castle. 2 m. to the 1:T. of Ruthven is Airlie Castle (Earl of Airlie), at the junction of the Melgum and Isla, both famous trout and salmon streams, and highly picturesque with rock and foliage. In 1639 the Earl of Airlie was a strong royalist, and left Scotland to avoid signing the Covenant. During his absence the castle was burnt by the Earl of Argyle, acting under the authority of the Committee of Estates. It is the subject of the ballad "The Bonnie House of Air- lie," and this injury was afterwards avenged by Montrose by the destruc- tion of Castle Campbell. Some remains of the old castle have been incorporated with the present build- ing, the E. wall, with its portcullis- entry, being still entire. The re- mainder has disappeared. The principal residence of the Earl of Airlie is at Cortachy, near Kirrie- muir. In the grounds of a farmhouse, called "the Barns of Airlie,^' is a "weem" or cave, the roof of which is rudely sculptured. The Glen or Den of Airlie is very romantic, par- ticularly at the waterfall or Slug of Audirannie, 60 ft. high, and is well worth a visit. The whole is ex- ceedingly fine, the banks being in many places perpendicular, and 400 ft. in height. It is a noted place for ferns, and Asplenium viricle is plentiful. The tourist may return to Kirriemuir, 12 m. distant, instead of to Alyth. Between Alyth and Meigle is Hollywood, the seat of Clayhill Hen- derson, Esq., and in the neighbour- hood is Kinloch (Sir George Kinloch, Bart.)] Quitting Meigle Junct., the line approaches the Sidlaw Range, con- spicuous on which is a ruined tower on the summit of Kilpurnie Hill, 1151 ft. 244 m. Eassie Stat. 26| m. Glamis Stat., 1 m. from which on rt. is Glamis Castle (Earl of Strathmore). Admission liberally granted to castle and gardens. Small Inn in the villacre. Scotland. Boute 50. — Perth to Aberdeen: Glamis. 317 This "magnificent old Baronial Castle " is perhaps the finest and most picturesque of the Scottish castles now inhabited, and at the same time one of the most cheerful and habitable. It owes its present aspect, clustered with turrets, barti- zans, and extinguisher roofs, to the first Earl of Strathraore, 1675-1687. Doubtless it has older portions in- cluded in the square tower with walls 15 ft. thick, which overlooks the whole, and the lower wings are still more modern. The old chron- iclers say that Malcolm II. died at Glamis, and some add that he was assassinated. But then Macbeth was Thane of Glamis, and perhaps lived there, and he was said to have mur- dered a king. So, by a conjunction of tradition and fiction, the scene immortalised by Shakespeare has been transferred hither, and the room in which Duncan breathed his last is even pointed out. ' ' It con- tains a curious monument of feudal times, being a secret chamber, the entrance of which by the law or custom of the family must only be kno^\^l to 3 persons at once, the Earl, his heir-apparent, and any third person they may take into confidence." — Si7' IF. Scott. At the execution of Lady Glamis for witchcraft, and for conspiring to poison King James V. (!) in 1537, the castle was forfeited to the Crown ; but Avlien her innocence had been established it was restored to her son, whose descendant, Patrick, be- came Earl of Strathmore in 1606. In 1716 Prince Charles Edward lodged for some time here, and held a sort of court. Sir Walter Scott adds: — "A disciple of Kent had the cruelty to render this splendid old mansion more parkish, as he was pleased to call it, to raze all the ex- terior defences, and to bring his mean and paltry gravel walk up to the very door out of which, deluded by the name, we might have imagined Lady Macbeth (with the form and features of Siddons) issuing forth to welcome King Duncan." It is entered by a low door, sur- mounted by shields of the bearings of the noble family of Lyon ; also by the arms of the royal family, in allusion to the time when James V. lived here during the forfeiture. A winding stair in the circular tower, set in an angle of the building, leads to a low vaulted hall decorated with armour and the bufi" coat of Claver- house. It occupies nearly the whole space of the tall square central tower, Avhich seems to be the oldest part of the castle. The drawing- room (once the hall) is embellished with a finely carved and arched ceil- ing and noble fireplace. In addition to family portraits are some pictures of the Stuarts and their ministers — of Claverhouse, the Duke of Lauder- dale, and James Thomson the poet ; and opening out from this is a small dark-panelled chapel, one of the oldest portions ; it was consecrated before the Reformation. Some hand- some cabinets, and tapestry repre- senting scenes in the life of Nebu- chadnezzar will be admired. The visitor should not omit to see the view from the top of the castle, over Strathmore and 12 counties, the range of the Grampians, the towns of Alyth, Blairgowrie, Eorfar, Mount Blair, and the Craigs of Clova. The kitchen is old. In front of the house a curious sun-dial will be noticed, with an ex- traordinary number of faces to the sun. Amongst the curiosities of the place is the "lion-cup" of Glamis, the original from which Sir W. Scott took the idea of the ' ' Blessed Bear of Bradwardine " in " "VVaverley." The Park of 1000 acres is traversed by the river Dean ; it abounds in fine trees. The pinetum and gardens are modern. In front of the manse, in the vil- lage of Glamis, is a sculptured stone, called King Malcolm's gravestone. Soon after passing Glamis Stat. 31: Route 50. — Perth to Aherdeen : Forfar. Sect. V. a brief glance is obtained of tlie castle, on rt. 28J m. Kirriemuir Junct. [from this a short branch leads on 1, to Kirriemuir [Inns : Airlie Anns ; Crown), a brisk manufacturing little town, with a trade in brown linen. Like Alyth, it is pleasantly placed on the southern slopes of the hills, called the Braes of Angus. In the cemetery are some sculptured stones. In the neighbourhood are Logic (Col. Kinloch), Lindertis (Sir T. Munro), and Kinnordy (birthplace of the emi- nent geologist, the late Sir Charles Lyell, Bart.), while Airlie Castle is only 4 J m. to the W. 2^ m. W. rises the four-storeyed fortalice of Invcr- quharity Castle, seat of a branch of the Ogilvies, one of whom fought for James VIl. at the Battle of the Boyne. For pedestrian route from Kirriemuir to Ballater, by Glen Clova {see Rte. 51). It is a drive of 15 m. from this to Glen Clova Inn. J 321 m. i^o?/ar Stat, (^i^n: County Arms, post horses ; Pop. 12,555), a royal and pari, burgh, and cajiital of the county of the same name. Brist- ling with stalks of chimneys, it is by no means an attractive town ; but possesses handsome County Buildings and a Public Hall, for which it is in- debted to a liberal townsman, Peter Reed, confectioner. It contains eight or nine large power-loom mills, which employ many of the inhabitants in weaving coarse linens. An octagon turret, formerly the Town Cross (date, time of Charles I.), now marks the site of the Castle, which was a royal residence in the days of Malcolm Canmore. Queen ]\Iargaret had a retreat upon the Inch in Forfar Loch, now partl}^ drained. The town acquired an infamous notoriety from the number of old women executed here under a charge of witchcraft. A hollow on the north of the town is still called "The Witches' Howe," and the Forfar " Bridle," which was used as a gag, is still preserved in the Tow/i Hall, where are also portraits of Admiral Lord Duncan, by Opie, and of Henry Dundas, Lord Melville, by Raehtim. The hill above the town is con- verted into a public Cemetery, planted with coniferous trees, and laid out in walks. A little to the E. of the town, 1. of the rly., are the remains of Rcstennet Prioinj, of the date of the 13th cent., although an earlier ch. is supposed to have existed here, foimded by St. Boniface in the 7th cent. The square tower, surmounted by an octagonal ,spire, is the principal portion that remains. Glamis Castle is 6 m. off {see above). FinJiavcn Castle is a ruined strong- hold of the Earls of Crawford. Near it is a Roman camp of considerable extent. At Aherlemno, in a field not far distant, are two sevlptured stones^ with figures of men and horses. Passing some small lochs, the rly. reaches 35 m. ClocTcshriggs Stat. ; imme- diatel}'- after which is Rescobie Loch, formed by the Lunan river. Lastrcea thelyjjteris is to be found in it. 37 J m. 1., close to Auldbar Road Stat., is Balgavies (pronounced Be- gays) House, a modern building en- grafted on the old castle. [1. 4 m. Melgund Castle is a fine old ruin, said to have been built by Car- dinal Beaton. Between Melgund and Brechin is Auldbar (P. J. Chalmers, Esq.), a castellated man- sion, part of which was built by Sir Thomas Lyon, Treasurer of Scot- land, whose arms, impaling those of his wife, daughter of the Regent Morton, are cut below the bartizan. Auldbar is built on the edge of a ravine of great depth. The grounds Forfar. Route 50. — Guthrie Junction ; Brechin. 319 are very picturesque, and contain a charming terrace garden. ] 39-^ m. at Ghthrie Juxct. the Arbroath line is given off on rt. (Rte. 49). Guthrie Cctstle (1.), the seat of the family of the same name, is a square tower, built in 1468, but much added to of late years. Gardyne Castle (1 m. on rt.) is a baronial structure of venerable as- pect, standing on the declivity of a deep valley, watered by a small stream. The rly. now turns N. E. to 45 m. Farnell Road Stat.^ a little to the N. of which, on the banks of the South Esk, see Kinnaird Castle, the stately seat of the Earl of South- esk, which title, after being long at- tainted, was restored in 1855. It contains a fine library and an inter- esting collection of paintings. The estuary of the river is crossed at 48 m. Bridge of Dun Junct., on the S. Esk. rt., see chimneys of Montrose. [Hence a short branch of 4 m. 1. leads to Brcchm Stat. (Etes. 51a, b, and c) {Inn : Commercial, clean and good), a flourishing and increasing town, with large linen manufactures (Pop. 7933), lying upon the side of a hill overhanging the South Esk. This modern quarter occupies the high ground. The Cathedral, from the first a building of small extent, has had its nave supplanted by a modern sash- windowed Kirk, but retains at W. end a fine Dec. Tower, portal, and window ; while the choii', a ruined fragment, with 4 lancet win- dows, remains roofless at the E. end. Far more interesting is the Round Toxcer adjacent to it, of exact and solid masonry, 10 ft, diameter, 85 ft. high to the parapet, which is sur- mounted by a conic roof, a later addition. It strongly resembles the round towers of Ireland, and is pro- bably as old as the ] 1th century. Its chief architectural feature is a nar- row doorway, 6 ft. above the ground, with jambs inclining upwards, sur- rounded by a beaded moulding, and surmounted by a crucifix carved in low relief. The two figures at the sides were evidently intended to represent saints. It is certain, therefore, that it was built after the conversion of the country to Christianity. These towers may have parti}' served as belfries, and partly to protect sacred property and vessels. Compared with the Irish towers, Brechin reminds one of Kilkenny, inasmuch as regards its proximity to the cathedral ; Cloyne, in its type and manner of building ; and Donaghmore, in its ornamentation over the door. Not the least in- teresting part of the Cathedral of Brechin is its beautiful situation on the borders of the deep ravine of the S. Esk.| Brechin Castle, a comfortable mo- dern mansion, is charmingly placed higher up on the edge of this glen of the S. Esk, turning its back on chimneys and hills. The pretty cor- ridor and other rooms are hung with some interesting portraits, Charles Fox, Neil Gow the famous fiddler, and several others. During the inva- sion by Edward I. Brechin Castle held out against him for 3 weeks, under Sir Thomas ]\Iaule, nor was it surrendered till the governor had been killed. It has been much modernised ; it is still the resid- ence of the head of the Maule family, the Earl of Dalhousie. About 5 m. N. of Brechin is the remarkable hill-fort called the White Caterthun [see Rte. 51a). Distances.— 'To Perth, 52 m. ; to Montrose, 7J m.] 320 Route 50. — Montrose ; Den Finella. Sect. V From the Bridge of Dun Stat, the rly. skirts the estuary of the Esk, known as Montrose Basin, to 501 m. DuBTON JuNCT. Stat. ; a sliort branch of 3 m. (on rt.) leads to Montrose Stat. {Inns: Star; "White Horse). A Pari. Burgh town of some trade, butnot increasing. Pop. 14,548. It stands on a tongue of fiat land stretching S. , flanked on the W. by a large tidal Basin formed by the estuary of the S. Esk river, and on the AV. by the N. Sea. There is a good deal of shipbuilding carried on, with its accessories of rope and sail making. The town, which is well built, and is furnished with excel- lent shops, contains an interesting Town Hall ; the ch. is modern, and has a lofty spire. In the High-street are statues of Jos. Hume (who was born here 1777, and was long ]\I. P. for Montrose) and of Sir Robt. Peel. It is also the birthplace (1S05) of Sir Alexander Burnes, the traveller and Eastern diplomatist, murdered at Cabool, and of Robert Browne, the botanist. At the end of the High- street is a portion of the town -house in which the ]\larquis of Montrose was liorn, 1612. The mouth of the S. Esk, which is .the entrance to the Basin, a splendid land-locked sheet of water, about 3 m. across, is bridged over by a suspension bridge, built by Sir Samuel Brown, who saw in the little island of Bravoch a useful ally. On the S. bank of the Basin is the hand- some seat of Rossie (W. M. Mac- donald, Esq.) The visitor should cross the ferry, ascend the hill above Ferryden for the sake of the view, and return by the suspension bridge (Rte. 49). A large Lunatic Asylum has been built near Hillside, Dub- ton. The Links of Montrose are celebrated as one of the finest golf- grounds in Scotland. Here ended the Rebellion of 1715-16 by the secret embarkation of Prince James Stuart, accompanied by IMar, on board a French vessel, leaving his army in the lurch. There is not much to be seen at Montrose, but an Excursion to Den Finella, by the [Montrose and Bcrvie Bailway, which strikes due N. along the coast, skirting the cliffs, crossing the N. Esk below the Pounage Pool, where John o'Arnha encountered the Water Kelpie, according to the old ballad composed by George Beattie, who sleeps in the ch. -yard of St. Cyrus, at the foot of the rocks. Rt. by the sea is the Kaim of Mathers, built by Barclay to escape the vengeance of the King for having slain and afterwards " suppit in bree," the body of the Sheriti" of the Mearns. At Lauriston Stat, the traveller should stop to visit Den Finella, one of the most romantic Dens in the county, in the grounds of A. Porteous, Esq., crossed b}' the rly. on a bridge of 4 arches. Bcrvie Terminus, made a royal burgh by David II., 1342 ; was the birthplace of Coutts, the banker. Hallgreen Castle (I. Farquhar, Esq.) was the residence of the father of Dr. Arbuthnott, the friend of Pope ; he was probably born here. Stonehaven, 10 m., may be reached b}' 'bus 4 times a week. A beautiful walk is to Arbroath, 16 m. along the coast, by L^son, Bod- dom, Lunan Bay, Red Head, and Auchmithie (Rte. 49). Rail to Aberdeen. The main line now keeps north- ward, passing 1. Hillside and Craigo (M. Grant, Esq.), and at 54 m. Craigo Stat., enters Kincar- dineshire, crossing the North Esk river through the fertile " How-o'- the- Mearns. " 56 m. Marykirk, to the rt. is Kirk- ton Hill (G. Taylor, Esq.), well Kincardine. Icoute 50. — Stonehaven; Duniiottar. 321 situated at the foot of tlie Garvock Hills. 59 m. Laurencekirk {Hotel : Gar- denstone Arms) was founded by Francis Garden, Lord Gardenstone, in 1765, on the estate of Johnston, which he had then recently purchased. Dr. Beattie, author of "The Min- strel," was born on a farm close to the town, of which his father was tenant, 1735. It was once famous for its manufacture of snuff-boxes. Et. Garvock Hill, marked by its Tower, which commands a fine view. At the hill foot, Johnston Lodge (Alex. Gibbon, Esq.), 3 ni. 1. is the village oi Auchinblae (Rte. 51c). 62^ m. Fordoun, is supposed to have been the birthplace of John of Fordoun, author of the " Scoto- Chronicon," and the oldest author- ity on the subject of Scottish his- tory ; Pitarrow is a little to the 1. of the line. On 1. is Monboddo (J. C. Burnett, Esq.), seat of Lord Mon- boddo, who was celebrated for hold- ing remarkable opinions about men having tails. Dr. Johnson and Bos- well dined here, and the latter says that it was then " a wretched place, wild and naked, with a few old houses ; though, if I recollect aright, there are 2 turrets, which mark an old baron's residence." The house has been much improved and en- larged. The rly. soon crosses the Bervie Water, and reaches Drum- lUliie, a little manufacturing village ; it then descends the valley of the Carron Water, having Fetteresso Castle (R. Duff, Esq., M.P.) on the 1., and on rt. Fowlsheugh, a great re- sort of sea-birds, and Dunnottar House. 73J m. Stonehaven {Inns: Com- mercial ; Station ; Urie Amis), a flourishing little port, and the county- town of Kincardine. It is situated very near the mouth of 2 rivers, the Carron and the Cowie, and is con- siderably in repute as a bathing place. See a little to the S. of the town the ruins of Dunnottar Castle, seat of the Keiths, Earls IMarischal of Scot- land. It stands on a projecting rock, separated from the mainland by a deep chasm, which in former days must have made it impregnable. The great square tower, which is still the most complete part, and chapel, are said to have been built by the Crawfords, Earls of Lindsay. The modern part consists of 3 sides of a quadrangle, and is more like a barrack than a castle. During the wars of the Commonwealth the Scot- tish regalia were kept here, and when the castle was besieged, the governor, George Ogilvie of Barras, held out strenuously, and did not surrender until they had been conveyed away, through the midst of the besieging force, by Mrs. Grainger, the minister's wife — the crown in her lap, the sceptre disguised as a distaff. She buried them under the pulpit of Kiuneff Church until the Restora- tion. Dunnottar was used in 16S5 as a place of imprisonment for the Covenanters, and the " Whigs' Vault," in which they were confined, still re- mains. The cliffs are bold and rocky here, and rise to 200 ft., a little lower down at Fowlsheugh, between Stone- haven and Bervie. In the ch. -yard of Dunnottar, Walter Scott met for the first and last time Peter Paterson, the original of " Old Mortality," cleaning the headstones at the graves of the Covenanters who died in Dun- nottar Castle. Pass rt. the ruins of Cowie old Kirk, and 1. Urie, the fine seat of Alex. Baird, Esq., a handsome modern Gothic house, replacing the old mansion of the Barclays, the most illustrious of whom, Robert, wrote the "Apology for the Quakers." Some relics of him are preserved in the present house. The last of the family was Captain B., the famous pedestrian, and a great agriculturist. 322 Route 50. — Urie ; Aberdeen. Sect. V. R. Barclay and Captain B. both rest in the family burying-ground upon the mound or Hauf of Urie. The line approaches the coast to 78 m. Muchalls Stat., near which is the small but quaint-looking house of Muchalls, begun, as the inscription tells us, in 1619, and finished in 1627, by Sir Thomas Burnett of Leys. A low courtyard wall in front supports a row of for- midable-looking bastions, a fashion which had outlived the necessities of the times. The large hall and another smaller room haA^e ceilings of pargetted pi aster- work in excellent preservation, and on either side of the fireplace is a gloomy figure standing with crossed arms. The rly. now keeps close to the coast, which is bold and rocky, aff'ord- ing many a beautiful peep down the gullies. 794 m. NeivtonMll Stat. 81^ m. Portlethen Stat., nearwhich is the village of Findon, or Finnan, well known for the production of smoked haddocks. 85 m. Cove Stat. See on rt. the Nigg Lighthouse, and Wellington Suspension Bridge. From hence the rly., making a curve, crosses the Dee, and enters Aberdeen Termimis, in College-st., near the docks, at the mouth of the gully called Denburn. This is the Stat, of the Great North of Scotland, Caledonian, and Deeside Railways. (Imperial Hotel, close to the stat. ; Douglas's H. ; the Northern H. : Royal H.) The Post-oflSce is in Market St. Several Episco'pal Chapels here. The Photographic Vic^vs of Scottish sceneiy, by Wilson of Aberdeen are deservedly celebrated. Aberdeen, 88,125 Inhab., is the fourth city in Scotland, in point of population and trade. It has also important manufactures in linen, woollen, and iron. It is great in shipbuilding (clippers of renown). It is the chief seaport of the N. of Scotland, and in 1873 had 235 ves- sels of 103,149 tons. It is really a handsome town, built chiefly of granite, the local stone, at the mouth of the Dee, between it and the Don ; but its harbour has neither the capacity nor convenience propor- tioned to its trade, although Smeaton and Telford employed their best engineering abilities, and ex- pended more than £300,000 upon it. New and expensive works were be- gun 1871 — including a S. Breakwater of concreted blocks, 1300 ft. long, which will not be finished for some time. The " diversion " of the Dee by the straightening of its course, cut- ting off a great bend just below the Wellington and Railway bridges, was achieved in 1872. A fine Pier was completed in 1848, having on the N. pier-head a tidal fixed red light. The Bridge over the Dee is a struc- ture of 7 arches, built in the early part of the 16th centy. by Bishop Dunbar. It is one of the oldest bridges in this part of the world, having survived the floods of 1829. It was the scene of the first of Mon- trose's victories ; the passage of the bridge was won \>y him after a battle of two days on June 19, 1639, one of the manj'' fluctuating struggles of the Scottish Civil War, in which Aberdeen constantly changed hands, passing from the Cavalier to the Covenanter, and back again. At this date Montrose belonged to the latter party. Leaving the railway stat., as- cend to Castle St., a sort of central market-place, one side of which is occupied by the Toivn and County Buidinc/s, modern Gothic, of pic- turesque design (Peddie and Kinnear, architects), with a very eff"ective bel- fry tower 200 ft. high, and another ancient tower at the E. end. It cost SCOTLA.ND. Pioute 50. — Aberdeen. 323 £60,000, and contains some good portraits — the Queen and Prince Consort, by John Philli}), a native — Queen Anne, by Kneller, etc. ■ Before it stands The Cross, a struc- ture in the Renaissance style, with hexagon base, the panels ornamented with medallion heads of Scottish Kings, from James I. to James VIL, surmounted by a pillar, bearing the Eoyal Unicorn rampant. It was the work of a mason, John Montgomery, of Auldrain, 1686. In this place also is the Statue of the last Duke of Gordon, Marquis of Huntly, and Colonel of the 42d High- landers, whom Scott addressed : "Cock of the North, my Huntly braw, Whaur are you wi' the Forty-twa ! " The chief street is Union-st7^cet, a fine avenue of granite houses, with many good shops, banks, hotels, etc., stretching W. from Castle-street, nearly a mile. A Statue of Queen Victoria, by Brodie, deserves high commendation. On the rt. hand an open Grecian colonnade discloses to view the E. and W. Churches, stand- ing in a large ch.-yard, but forming a continuous building. The E. church is of carpenter Gothic, 1870-75, the other, having sash windows, was designed by Gihhs, architect of St. Martin's-in-the#Fields and the Ead- clitf Library, a native of Aberdeen. The W. church, burned in 1874, has been rebuilt, but the fine tower and transept, with the monuments of the Irvines, have been destroyed. Surrounding the ch. is a Cemetery, which contains the remains of Dr. Beattie, author of "The Minstrel," and some time Professor of Moral Philosophy in Marischal College. Union-st. is carried across the hol- low of the Denburn on a very fine granite Bridge, of a single arch, 131 ft. span, and at the N. W. end is a seated Statue by ]\larochetti of the Prince Consort, at the uncovering of which the Queen attended. He is in a field-marshal's uniform, with the robe of the Thistle over it, and in the hand a scroll. It is not a successful work. Close to the Union Bridge is the Trades Hall, a granite building, con- taining some portraits by Jameson, and some curiously carved chairs. Pieturning to Castle-street, to the W. of the Cross is the Tolbooth, with a lofty spire, now incorporated in the Toivn HaU. From its N. side branches out Broad-street. Here, at No. 68, lived Byron when a boy, with his mother. A narrow entrance in Broad-street leads to Marischal College (now an integral portion of the University), named from its founder, George Keith, Earl Marischal, in 1593. The present building, forming 3 sides of a quad- rangle, with a tower 100 ft. high, of poor modern Gothic, was com- pleted in 1841, at a cost of £38,000. In the centre of the court is an obelisk to Sir James M'Grigor, head of the medical staff" in the Egyptian, Walcheren, and Peninsular cam- paigns. A flight of stairs leads to The Hall, containing some good portraits by Jameson, a pupil of Vandyke and a native of Aberdeen — George Buchanan, and others. Eminent students : Gilbert Bur- net, Bishop of Salisbury (1657) ; Dr. Arbuthnott, the friend of Pope ; Colin Maclaurin, the mathematician ; Dr. Reid, the metaphysician ; Robert Hall, the divine, and Sir James Mackintosh. The former Grammar School, in the School Hill, was Byron's first place of education. Read his admirable reminiscences of Aberdeen in Moore's "Life of Byron." To the E. of Castle-square are Castle-hrae and the Barracks. On this hill once stood the old Castle 324 Route 50. — Old Aberdeen ; Cathedral. Sect. V. of Aberdeen, which in the time of Edward was garrisoned by the Eng- lish, and captured from them by a night attack of the citizens, whose watchword was " Bon Accord," which has ever since been tlie motto of the city. From the N.E. corner of the square a street leads down to the Lioiks, upon which Montrose en- camped on three difterent occasions. Here are the premises of Leslie and Macdonald for polishing granite. The Granite of Aberdeen is valued over all the world, and the city is chieily built of it, so that it some- times goes by the name of "the granite city." The N. of Scotland Bank, with its Corinthian portico of four columns, the new Grammar School, and the new County Buildings, are good examples of finely- wrought granite buildings. The docks of Sebastopol were also built of this material. In connection with the artistic value of granite, the visitor should inspect Messrs. INIacdonald and Co.'s granite-works. The art of working granite with the axe, in- stead of the pick, and the inventions of patent axing or chiselling with a number of cutting surfaces combined in one tool, as well as that of polish- ing by machinery, are due to the late Alexander Macdonald. Aberdeen is one of the oldest and most important towns in Scotland, possessing charters of privilege older than any other Scotch city, from "William the Lion, Alex. L and IL, and Robert Bruce. The Town-Council Registers begin 1398. At the inva- sion by Edward IJL, Sir Thomas Roscelyn, one of his lieutenants, landed a body of troops at Dunethan, and marched upon Aberdeen ; where- upon the citizens mustered their forces and gave Sir Thomas battle on the green. The English were defeated with great slaughter, and Sir Thomas being killed, the English in revenge burnt Aberdeen to the ground. The city was then rebuilt at the mouth of the Dee, and called New Aberdeen. Robert II. assembled a parliament here to couce]'t measures for an inva- sion of England. In the minority of James I. the citizens marched out under their provost. Sir Robert Davidson, and fought with the Earl of Mar against Donald of the Isles at Harlaw. Sir Robert was killed, and a rule was then made that the provost should not leave the city during his term of office. In 1569 Aberdeen was entered by a body of Reformers, who, after some opposition from the inhabitants, succeeded in destroying the ecclesi- astical buildings ; but the town itself soon gave in its adhesion to the new creed. One hand of the Marq. of Montrose was sticking on the top of the Tolbooth until the visit of Charles II. in 1650, Avhen it was taken down at the request of his son, and sent to Edinburgh to be buried. A little more than a mile from the crowded streets and bustle of Aber- deen a singular contrast is presented in the silent ways of Old Aberdeen^ or "the Auld Town," near the river Don, a collection of detached houses, some large and handsome modern mansions amidst trees and gardens, much more like a village than a city. It is said to have been deserted for the new site after t^^e inroad of the English, temp. Edward III. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Machar, a companion of St. Columba, consists of a stately nave only. Hank- ed by two massive battlemented towers with short spires (1424). The choir was destroyed by the Reformers, and the transepts by the fall of the central tower, undermined by Crom- well's troopers. The W. entrance, the round arch between the two cas- tellated towers, is surmounted by a window of seven tall slits. All this is of granite, and dates from 1357- 1518. The nave extends to 7 bays of pointed arches resting on columnar piers. The visitor should notice the Scotland. Route 50. — Old Aberdeen ; College. 325 flat ceiling of panelled oak, with its forty-eight shields, glittering with the blazonries of the Pope, the em- peror, St. Margaret, the kings and princes of Christendom, the bishops, and the earls of Scotland, added by Bishop Dunbar, 1519-31. Here is the grave of Barbour, author of ' ' The Bruce," and Archdeacon of Aberdeen, who died in 1395. In the ruined S. transept, now open to the sky, are two canopied tombs, with effigies, much mutilated, of Bishops Leighton (1424) and Dunbar (1518). The ca- thedral was well restored, 1871, and much whitewash and a heavy gallery removed. A little S. of the Cathedral, stand- ing in a field, is King's College, founded in 1494, in accordance with a bull of Pope Alexander VI., by Bishop Elphinstone, to whose zeal and liberality it owes its existence, and the patronage it received from James IV. At the Picformation it was possessed of very considerable revenues, but was deprived of a great part of its wealth in the general scramble. In 1641, Charles I. grant- ed it a charter, incorporating it with the Marischal College as a part of the "Caroline" University. But after the Kestoration the two col- leges were again disunited, and it is only since 1860 that they have been finally merged, — the King's College being devoted to Arts and Divinity, and the other to the classes of law and medicine. The building was completed 1870- 74, and now forms a square, one side of which, the only part remaining of the original, is the Chapel, begun 1500, and the massive tower attach- ed to it, surmounted by a crown on flying arches, similar to St. Giles's, Edinburgh, and St. Nicholas, New- castle. The chapel has a good Flam- boyant "W. window, and contains some very elaborate carved woodwork in the same style, consisting of a double row of canopied stalls, with miserere seats and a lofty open screen. The carving throughout is gorgeous and delicate. The patterns of the tracery is very elaborate, and differs in every panel. Bishop Stuart's pulpit was brought hither from the cathedral ; upon it are heads in relief of the Scottish monarchs (as on the city cross) from James I. to James VII. In the pavement are monu- mental slabs to Elphinstone, the founder, and of Hector Boece, d. 1536, the first principal. The N'eto Library, opposite the chapel, con- tains about 80,000 volumes, and several fine old MSS. and missals. In one of the class-rooms are pictures of the Ten Sibyls, and of Principal Middleton by Jameson, and an ori- ginal likeness of the founder. Nearly 2 m. from Aberdeen, and I m. from Old Aberdeen, is The Old Bridge of Don or Brig o' Balgownie, a very picturesque single pointed arch, 62 ft. span, erected 1320, by Bp. Cheyne, spanning a deep black pool of the river, backed by fine woods, and quite worthy of the artist's penciL It has been made famous, however, by Lord Byron, who remembered it, and the super- stition connected with it, many years after he had left Aberdeen. The poetic legend runs thus : — " Brig o' Balgownie, black's your wa' ; Wi' a wife's ae son, an' a mare's ae foal, Down ye shall fa'." Byron, who had crossed it as a boy 9 years old, alludes to it in " Don Juan," and recalls to mind its " one arch, and its black deep salmon stream is in my memory as yester- day, I still remember, though I may misquote, the awful proverb which made me pause to cross it, yet lean over with a childish delight, being an only son." Old as it is it withstood the floods of 1829, which swept away almost all the modern bridges in this part of Scotland. Lower down is a modern bridge of 5 arches. 126 Route 51. — Kirriemuir; Cortachy. Sect. V. Steamers from Aberdeen to Edin- burgh, Newcastle, Hull, and Lon- don ; to Kirkwall, Lerwick, Wick, and Thurso, FmU to Perth, 90 m., and Dun- dee ; to Inverness, 109 ; to Ballater, on the way to Braemar, 44 ; Alford, Peterhead, 4.5 ; Banff; and Fraser- burgh, 47^ ni. Distances. — Aboyne, 32 m. ; Bal- later, 44 ; Balmoral, 53 ; Castleton of Braemar, 60 ; Stonehaven, 16 ; Banchory, 17^ ; Kintore, 12 m. KOUTE 51. Kirriemuir to Ballater and Braemar, by Glen Clova. From Kirriemuir, in Rte. 50, is a drive of 15 m. to Clova Hotel. The carriage road continues to the head of the glen, but over the mountain is a mere bridle-path, not very dis- tinctly marked, and rarely crossed in foggy weather. This is a fine excursion, and one of the least known. Even those whose walking powers are limited should go as far as the head of Glen Clova, which may be done in a con- veyance. The pedestrian should sleep at Clova, where there is a comfortable little inn, the Ogilvy Arms, and pro- ceed next day to Ballater, over the Capel, or to Braemar by Bachna- gairn and Cairn Bannoch. But as Clova is in the centre of the moun- tain district known as the Braes of Angus, it is a good place to stop at and explore the district. From Kirriemuir the road runs K. leaving the village of Kingoldrum and Kinnordy, the property of the late Sir Chas. Lyell, Bart, the dis- tinguished geologist, to whom also belonged the old Castle of Inver- quharity on the 1. 5 m. is Cortachy village and Castle, chief seat of the Earl of Airlie, most charmingly situated in a wooded amphitheatre, through which the South Esk flows with considerable fall and force, a lovelj^ domain. Part only of the castle is ancient ; the very handsome baronial mansion attached to it was built 1871-2, at a cost of £25,000 (David Bryce, architect). Its chief features are a Keep Tower, 120 ft. high, to serve^as a Museum and Clock Tower, the clock flanked by 2 huge stone bulls, the supporters of the Airlie arms. The chief entrance is in the pretty village, close to a bridge over the river, and not far from the red sand- stone Kirk, which has a good Perp. window. [At Cortachy a road runs in from Brechin, 15 m., which has followed the N. bank of the South Esk the whole way, passing 1. Eskmouut, Maulsden, Marquis, and rt. CarestoTi. 10 m. at Finhaven (a public-house) the Esk is crossed by a handsome bridge close to the ruined castle and modern mansion of Finhaven (Col. Gardyne). The road to Cortachy turns off" at the inn to the rt., leaving the other to pursue its way to Forfar. 11m. Tannadice House (W. Neish, Esq. ), and the village of Tannadice, beyond which is Inchewan (J. Ogilvy, Esq.). To the right is the entrance to Glen Ogle. Before reaching the woods of Douanie, turn to rt. and then to 1., passing at the back of Douanie and saving a mile to Cor- tachy]. As far as Cortachy the country is well wooded, to this succeed open sheep-walks. From Cortachy there are two roads to Clova — one on each side the river. On the W. bank is the best road, but the other is rather the prettiest. Neither of them keeps close to the river, in some parts of which pearls are found of consider- able size. The valley is interesting to the geologist for the good examples ScOTLi'.ND. Route 51. — Glen Clova. 327 it affords of river terraces and mor- aine heaps formed by glaciers. It is equally interesting for its botany, and the number of rare plants it yields. The lower half of the valley is com- paratively tame, but as soon as the mountains at the head begin to show themselves, there is always a fine view. 1 m. from Cortachy, on 1., is the entrance to Glenprosen, through a pine wood of Norwegian character This glen (Rte. 51a) is very different from Clova, the hills being much lower and wooded nearly to the summit. 12 m. (from Kirriemuir) on the opposite side is situated a shooting- lodge of Lord Airlie. 16 m. Clova village or Kirkton, consists of the Inn (Ogilvy Arms, good), manse, kirk, and some farms, forming a charming little colony, surrounded by green pastures, and bounded on each side by lofty and craggy hills. The road, just before reaching the village, crosses the Esk at a ford (there is a foot-bridge for pedestrians), and is continued to the head of the glen i m. on the 1. or E. bank. Overlooking the village is a single fragment of Clova Castle, con- cerning which there is but little account ; indeed, the only historical interest of Clova is associated with (rather strangely) King Charles II. When this sovereign, in early life (1650), was established at Perth, amongst the zealous Presbyterians, he formed a design to escape from their hands, and take refuge with the Highland and other royalists. He got as far as Clova, but there finding none of his expected supporters he put himself into the hands of a Col- onel Montgomery, with whom he returned to Perth. This incident is known in Scottish history by the name of The Start. A steep ascent of | hour, path faintly marked, at the back of the hotel, following the burn which runs out of the loch, leads up the hill for 1^ m. to Loch Brandy, a pictur- esque tarn embosomed in a deep hollow of precipitous cliffs, which shut it out from the world. About 2 m. farther S. is Loch Wharral, a similar tarn, though not so well worth visiting ; ' and to the N. of Loch Brandy is the Corrie of Clova, apparently the bed of a loch drained away. The sharp ridge between the two is called the Sneb of Clova, and is marked by a very curious gap or indentation in the rock. This fissure is gradually widening, and must eventually sepa- rate a huge mass of rock which will fall into Loch Brandy. On the opposite line of hills is a depression known as the Sneck of Barns, over which lies the shortest way to Glen- prosen (Rte. 51a). From Clova to the head of the glen the road is worse, but the scenery incomparably finer. The hills draw nearer, and are rugged in the extreme. 3 m. from Clova village is the farm of Breclounie (]\Ir. White), opposite which is a fine jagged peak called the Sgur or Scurry of Doll. A little above the road on the rt. is a curious cave produced by the falling together of rock debris. It is known as Weems Cave, but has no tradition associated with it. 1 m. above Bre- dounie the glen is suddenly brought up and deflected like a fork by the grand massive hill of Ought, at the foot of which is Acharn Farm (Mr. Welsh), and shooting-lodge of Lord Southesk. To the 1. runs up Glen Doll, one of the wildest and finest glens in Scotland. There is no road up it, although a pony may be taken with care. The most prominent beauties of Glen Doll are the Eagle's Cliff and Loch Fee, a tributary corrie, the loch of which has been drained off, leaving a singular hollow. The cliffs here are splendid and very 328 Route 51. — Glen Clova. Sect. V steep, "but it is quite possible for a decent cragsman to cross over to Glen Call}^ and thus into Glen Tsla. ISTearly at' the head of Glen Doll is a steep path known as Jock's Lad- der, by which the tourist can ascend the Tolan and descend on the other side to Loch Callater, passing a very black little tarn, completely encircled by cliffs, in which the Corbreach Burn rises. There is also the JFine- Stoiqj, or " pot " in the rock, in which the water is rotated. Glens Clova, Doll, and Fee, are celebrated for their Alpine flowers and number of rare plants and ferns. Unfortunately the locality is so well known by pro- fessional botanists that they annually visit the glen and carry otf its treasures wholesale — a selfish and impolitic proceeding, Avhich Avill soon rob the neighbourhood of one of its principal attractions. The following are the principal specimens to be found : — Polypodium Dryopteris, P. Phlegopteris, Cystopteris fragilis, C. dentata, Hymenophyllum uuilaterale, Polystichum Lonchitis, P. angulare, Blechnum boreale, Woodsia silvensis, W. hyperborea (rare, at Bachna- gairn), Lastrea spinulosa, L. dilatata, L. oreopteris, Eubus Chamgemorus, Alchemilla alpina, Carex aquatilis, Molinia, depauperata, Phleum Mic- hellii, Carex stictocarpa, C. phseos- tachya, C. tenella (rare), Juncus Gesneri, Astragalus alpinus, Hiero- chloe borealis, Hieracium Halleri, etc., Lichnis Alpina in Little Gils- rannoch. The indiscriminate gather- ing of plants is now prevented by the landowners. There are two ways of leaving Glen Clova — a. To Ballater. b. To Braemar. To Ballater proceed 1 m. beyond Bredounie up Glen Clova to the foot of the Cfrpc/ (on rt., recog- nisable by a cairn on top). A zigzag bridle-path is seen ascending the face of the hill, from the top of which there is a splendid view looking up Bachnagairn and Glen Fee. Follow the path along the northern shoulder, as marked by the posts, keeping Loch- nagar and the subordinate ranges to the 1., as shown in the outline sketch. C/\IRN BAWNOCK The path soon descends to Loch Muick, the tourist gaining a peep of the savage Dhu Loch and the water- fall that issues from it. It is 9 m. from Clova to the end of Loch MuicJc, belonging to the Queen, a beautiful sheet of water, hemmed in on all sides but one by steep mountains. At the head of it is lOCM AfU'Sfi the handsome lodge built by the Prince Consort, from whence there are riding paths to Dhu Loch, which is guarded by the precipices of Loch- nagar on the one side and Craig Dhu Loch on the other. From the foot of Loch Muick (a noted place for pic-nics) it is 9 m. to Ballater. There is a road on either side the glen — Scotland. Routes 51, GUn Clova. — 51a, Ghn Slue. 329 but the one on the 1, bank of the Muick is the Queeiis Drive, not gene- rally accessible to tourists, and never when Her Majesty is at Bal- moral. 1| m. from the loch is ^?^ naghuissac, formerly known as "The Hut," but now made into a comfortable cottage residence, and occupied by the Courtwhen the Queen resides at Loch Muick. Glen Muick for the first 4 miles is rather mono- tonous and bare, but at the Falls of Muick the scenery is very charming, the river rushing with considerable body through a narrow wooded ravine. There is a primitive bridge just below the Linn, by crossing \Wiich it may be seen from another point. Below this the glen opens out and becomes partly pastoral and partly deer forest. In the N". rises the huge mass of Morven ; to the rt. is the shoulder of Mt. Keen, while the foreground is made up of the glen and the beauti- ful woods of Birk Hall, formerly occupied by Sir Jas. Clark, by the Prince of Wales during his Highland residence, and latterly by General Sir W. Knollys. 17 m. from Clova is the Bridge of Muick, where that river enters the Dee, the road across it leading to Knock Castle and Abergeldie. 18 m. Ballater (Rte. 52). h. From Clova to Braeniar the dis- tance is about the same as to Ballater, but the path is not so easy to find. Instead of turning off up the Capel, keep straight on to the head of Glen Clova as far as Bachnagairn, a shooting-lodge, 7 m. from Clova. Half-way up the Esk has to be forded, but the pedestrian may avoid it by crossing the bridge near Acharn, and following a footpath on the W. bank of the river. BachnagoArn is splendidly situated amongst the rocks at the head of the glen, and deeply embosomed amidst the firs of a deer forest. The South Esk, which rises in Loch Esk, about 2 m. higher up, falls {Scotland. ] in one grand leap of 70 or 80 ft. in height, the cliffs on each side bound- ing it like a wall. Unfortunately it is so shrouded by the forest that the visi- tor must approach close to it, and thus some of the effect is lost. From Bach- nagairn cross the stream by a foot- bridge and follow the path to the rt., which winds round the crest of the hill. Do not attempt to folIoAv the river, for the ground is uneven and very boggy. The path keeps to the W. of Craig Dhu Loch, and close to the side of Cairn Bannock, from whence on a clear day the Ochill and Lomond Hills may be seen. From thence it descends and joins the path from Braemar to Lochnagar on the side of Cairn Taggart. Follow this path down to Loch Callater, and thence by Glen Callater to Glen Clunie and Braemar (Rte. 52a). ROUTE 51 A. BrecMn to Glen Shee, by West Water, Clova, Glen Prosen, and Glen Isla. For Pedes- trians. This route is a carriage -road as far as Lethnot, and is continued to Edzell (Rte. 51b), but beyond Leth- not is for pedestrians only. It is a good one for examining the scenery of Forfarshire and the Braes of Angus. The distances are as follows : — Brechin to Lethnot, 7 m. Lethnot to Clova, 16 m. (good Inn). Clova to Glen Prosen, 6 m. (Inn). Glen Prosen to Glen Isla, 12 m. (Inn). Glen Isla to Glen Shee, 16 m. (Inn). As there is no inn of any sort at Lethnot, it will be a good j)lan to drive from Brechin, the walk from Lethnot to Clova being sufliciently p2 330 Route 51 A. — The Catertuns ; Clova ; Glen Prosen. Sect. Y. long. The road crosses the Cruick Water, passes the property of Balua- moon, and ascends the Menmuir Hills, at the summit of which it passes between two round-backed hills, each capped with a Cale- donian or British fort, called the Brown and White Cater tun. The "White Catertun on 1. of road is an ov\il fortification, of concentric rings of loose whitish stones, measuring 25 ft. across at the top and 200 ft. at the base. They have been dis- turbed and huddled so as to destroy their mural outline, but still rise to a height of 60 ft., enclosing an oval area measuring 436 it. by 200 ft. The fort is entered by one opening at the E. The platform on which it stands projects, as a great bastion, in front of the Grampian range, Avhich it commands to the N. and W., iuid it oveiiooks the plain of Strathmore, which is studded with Eoman camps. The Brown Catertun, about 1 m. N., is a series of concentric entrench- ments, nearly circular. There is a splendid view looking S. over Brechin and the flat country to the N. of Ar- broath and Dundee, and northwards over the Forfarshire Hills, in which Warran is a very cons^ncuous fea- ture. At the bottom of the steep slope of Menmuir Hills the road crosses the Paphrie Burn, leaving Lethnot {7 ra.) a little on the rt. It is a pretty little village on the 1. bank of the West Water, but otherwise is of no inte- rest. The road now follows the rt. bank through a rather monotonous glen to 10 m. Stonyford Bridge, a chann- ing bit of landscape ac the foot of Warran. The glen now becomes very pretty, although the hills are by no means of broken or romantic outline. On the contrary, they are rounded in form and covered with heather to the sumnnts^a perfect blaze of colour when the latter is in bloom. About 3 m. from Stonyford is a shooting - lodge of Lord Dal- housie's, and farther on is Kedshiels farm, the last house in the glen. Do not cross over to it, but keep straight up the glen by a peat path. It soon becomes very narrow and rough, and the rocks in many places are pre- cipitous. There is a particularly fine bit at the junction of the Coscarie Burn with the Saughs Water, forming the West Water. At the head of the former cross the mountain called Dog Hillock, Avhich is very boggy, but by keeping the depression a good deal is avoided. A few minutes' walking brings us over the Kennat Burn, which tblloAV down into the open, and, leaving Eotal to the 1., cut across the moor to get into the Clova road. The whole distance from Brechin to Clova by this route will be 23 m. Stop at Clova (Rte. 51) and next day ascend the hill exactly opposite the inn, the depression of which is known as the Sneck of Barns. On the other side a path leads down Glen Logic to Glen Prosen, passing at the junction of the two streams ^aZvia- hoth, the seat of Donald Ogilvy, Esq., charmingly sheltered and embosomed in fine old trees. At the lodge gate is the hamlet of Bitcarity, where is a little inn. Within the grounds of Balnaboth is the ruin of a small Roman Catholic chapel, probably built by the Kinlochs in the 16tli centy. Glen Prosen is characterised by wooded hills, and a general beauty and softness different from the other valleys. A road runs up from Pit- carity to a shooting-lodge of Mr. Ogilvy, and one of the Earl of Airlie's at the head of the glen. But the way to Glen Isla turns off to the 1. a mile from Balnaboth, and goes down the valley of the Mel gum for some little distance, being in fact the road to Alyth. The tourist should turn off at Clintlaw and cross the hill to Glen Isla (a comfortable Inn), about 12 m. from Pitcarity. From Glen Isla the tourist has three Scotland. Pds. 5 1a, Glen IsIa.—olB, Brechin to Ballater. 331 courses. He may follow the Isla for a few miles, and then strike south and reach Alyth, visiting on the way the unrivalled river scenery at Reekie Linn, or the Slug of Auch- rannie(Ete. 50), and so to Alyth ; or he may pi'oceed up the glen to Forter Castle, a square tower, supposed by some to have been the scene of the burning of "the Bonnie House of Airlie," and then cross the shoulder of Mt. Blair by a good road, rejoin- ing the Glen Shee road at Cray (Rte. 52b). But by far the finest excur- sion is to ascend the glen beyond Forter, where the scenery, which has hitherto been rather tame, begins to be fine. About 8 m. from the inn there are waterfalls at the junction of the Cally with the Isla. Glen Cally can be explored, and a passage made over the hills at the head to Glen Fee and Glen Doll (Rte. 51), or the tourist can proceed to Caen- lochan Glen, which runs to the very foot of Glasmeal (3502 ft.), a fine wild scene. The shoulder of Glass- meal may be crossed, and the tourist join the Glen Clunie road to Brae- mar at the top of Cairn Well. The Corry of Caenlochan has not its equal on this side of Scotland for beauty or brilliant verdure and number of rare plants. Prof. Mac- gillivray says: — "If there are other places in Scotland which con- tain as many interesting plants as this they must be very few. Ceras- tium alpinum, Saxifraga nivalis, S. stellaris, S. oppositifolia, S. hyp- noides, Veronica saxatilis, V. alpina, Silene acaulis, Erigeron alpinus, Potentilla alpestris, Draba incana, Saussurea alpina, Gentiana nivalis, Epilobium alsinifolium, Aira alpina, Poa alpina, P. caesia, Phleum com- mutatum, Alopecunis alpinus, Salix lanata, S. Myrsinites, S. reticulata, S. herbacea, and Mulgedium al- pinum, form a collection scarcely to be found elsewhere, and in the pro- fusion and luxuriance of its indi- vidual plants contrasting with the granite corries of Aberdeenshire." — Natural History of Deeside, p. 77. It is impossible to state the exact distance between Glen Isla and Brae- mar, but it cannot be less than 25 miles. ROUTE 5lB. Brechin to Ballater, by Edzell and Glenmark. 35 m. This is a very fine route, but the distances are long, and there is no inn between Edzell and Ballater, 29 m., so that the best plan would be to sleep at Edzell, see the castle and the burn, and then drive from Ed- zell for as many miles as the tourist chooses. Brechin to Edzell, 6 m. Omni- bus daily. Follow Aberdeen road 2 m., turn N. (L), cross the Cruick and West Water not far from Stra- cathro (Sir J. Campbell), and the Gothic castle of Inglismaldie (Ld. Kintore). Another, but longer road is by the Catertun Forts (Rte. 51a). Edzell {Inn : Panraure Arms, post horses, good headquarters for explor- ing) is a neat village, situated on the 1. bank of the North Esk, which here has a very broken and romantic course. 1 m. from the village, on the road to Lethnot, and near the West Water, are the ruins of * Edzell Castle, surrounded by a grove of trees. This fortress in old times com- manded the entrance to the Lowlands in this direction, and the tall tower of Glenmark was its outpost. Its first possessors were the Stirlings, from whom it passed to the Lind- says, and is now the property of the Earl of Dalhousie. As in many other Scottish castles, the oldest part, the square tower at the S. , built by the Stirlings, is still the most per- fect. This was connected with a round tower (much dilapidated) by a lower range, containing the state 332 Route 51b. — Brechin to Ballater : Edzell Sect. V. apartments, built by the Lindsays, now a mere shell, though compara- tively modern. The keep tower and Lindsay buildings overlook a square enclosure, once the flower garden or Viridarium of Sir David Lindsay, whose arms and the date 1604, appear over a doorway in the N.E. corner. The walls have this peculiarity, not only are they decorated all round with emblematical figures in- bas- relief of the Cardinal Virtues, the Sciences, Planets., etc., etc., but at intervals they are indented with large square holes, like pigeon holes, intended to hold flowers and creeping plants, but -which, viewed at a dis- tance, formed the Lindsay coat of arras — the fesse chequee, in combina- tion with the mullets surmounting them. l\\ the angle of this court is an elegant turreted Garden-house, or lodge of the same date, whei-e pic-nic parties may make their tea and the like by leave of the owner. In the Stirling Tower is the Ladies' Bower, whose window overlooks a noble prospect. Here Queen Mary sat when she visited Edzell. From Edzell the road runs IST., crossing the North Esk at Gannochy Bridge. A little beyond is the en- trance to the Burn (W. M'Liroy, Esq.), built by Lord Adam Gordon, 1791. On application at the lodge the visitor is kindly allowed to walk along the river side through the grounds. The North Esk flows for some four miles through a gorge of old red sandstone, forming a succes- sion of romantic views, of the kind, not to be excelled in Scotland. The narrowness and depth of the ravine, the great body of clear brown water, the curious tilted arrangement of the rocks, and the Alpine character of the woods, make up altogether a perfect picture. One of the finest bits is where a suspension bridge is flung across the chasm, and where the geologist will observe some very re- markable masses of conglomerate, as large as a house. Near the top of the gorge the arrangement of the rocks is diff'erent — serpentine and jasper occur. The botanist will find, amongst other plants, Galium anglicum, Jun- germannia, Saxifraga aizoides, Adian- tum nigi'um, Alchemilla alpina, etc. The tourist will discover that by the time he has exhausted the beauties of the Burn, he has escaped two miles at least of tedious road, which he can rejoin at the end of the grounds. Above the Burn the valley of the North Esk becomes open, and, al- though very pretty and pastoral, is not of any grandeur or wildness. ML Battock (2554 ft.) is a conspicu- ous feature due N. Opposite Auchintoul there is a pretty peep up Mooran and Forbie glens. 17 m. At Tarff Bridge, a stream coming down from Glen Tinmount is crossed [and a road on rt. given off to Burse Castle, where it again diverges — the one on the N. to Aboyne, and on the E. along the Feugh Water to Banchory (Rte. 51c.)] Beyond Tar jf side the road passes at the foot of Migvie Hill, and a beautiful view opens up of Glen Effock on the 1. , a glen of consider- aiile length, that runs S. W. to very near the head of Saughs Water. There is no road up it except to a farm. 20 m. at Loch Lee Kirk the Lee joins the Esk, taking its rise, or rather passing through Loch Lee, a wild, though small lake, almost surrounded by mountains. A farm- house, the manse, and a few cottages, make up the village ; there is no inn. The Earl of Dalhousie has a pretty shooting-lodge here. Between the village and the Loch is Invermark Castle, the old residence of the Stir- lings, and the first great barrier opposed to the Highland forces. Kincardine. Route 51c. — Brechin to Bancliory. 333 Near the junction of a small burn with the Mark, the late Lord Dal- housie enclosed, within a conspicuous structure of stone arches, a clear spring, called the Princes Well. An inscription records the visit of the Queen and Prince Consort, Sep- tember 1861. After passing the manse, Glenmark narrows consider- ably. At the head of it, keep the craggy hill of Dowan to the rt. , and begin to ascend Craig Boestock, and then along a zigzag path called ' ' the ladder." This crosses the shoulder of 3Iount Keen (3200 ft), a singu- lar conical -shaped hill with a deep corrie. On the other side the road crosses the head of Glentanmr, a fine glen joining Deeside at Aboyne, where Mr. Cunliffe Brook has a house, an old shooting - lodge en- larged, then crossing Corrievruach, it falls into the Ballater road near the Bridge of Muick. 35 m. Ballater (Rte. 52). ROUTE 51c. Brechin to Bancliory, by Edzell, Fettercairn, and the Cairn- monnt. This is another very pretty route, by which a cross-cut may be made into Deeside without going round by Montrose and Aberdeen, while it affords an excellent opportunity of seeing more closely the Forfarshire hills. To Edzell, 6 m., see last Eoute ; but, instead of turning off at the Glenesk road, keep straight on. [8. m. rt. is the road to Montrose, so remarkable for its direct line of 4 m., that it is called " The Lang Straight."] The country now be- comes very open, and in the extreme distance on rt. the Montrose Lunatic Asylum at Dubton can be seen some 10 m. off. 10 m. 1. Balbegno, an old-fashioned house, built about 1567. 11 m. Fettercairn (Inn : Ramsay Arms ; Eagle), a quiet little town, or rather village. The Eagle was the quarters of Her Majesty and the Prince Consort during one of their incognito excursions, Sept. 1861. Their visit has been commemorated by a handsome Tudor arch of red sandstone erected over the bridge. The village Cross was brought from the extinct town of Kincardine. The road now passes rt. Fetter- cairn House, and 1. Fasque, the seat of Sir Thomas Gladstone, Bt., built 1809. To the rt., in a wood, are the ruins of Kincardine Castle, where the helpless King John Balliol signed his abdication in favour of Edward L, who visited the castle 1296. In an earlier age Kenneth III., enticed into this stronghold by Finella, was slain here. 13 m. the road divides, one passing in front of Finella Hill to Fordoun. 15 m. at Clattering Brig another road is given off to the rt. to Auchin- blae, passing 2 m. Drumtochty Castle, the beautiful seat of Major Gammell. 4 m. Auchinhlae {Inn: Fordoun Arms), a village prettily situated on the steep banks of the Luther Water. The modern ch. has a fine tower ; but in the ch. -yd. there is a portion of the old ch. remaining. Some little distance from the village a fair is held, kno^^^l as St. Paddy's Fair. This is a corruption of St. Palladius, who is supposed to have come over with the earl}'' mission- aries to lona, and who died 452. Dr. Beattie was parish schoolmaster here, and describes the scenery in his " Minstrel." From Auchinblae the rly. may be joined at Laurence- kirk (Rte. 50), 3 m. farther. Before leaving Clattering Brig the geologist should pay a visit to the 334 Route 52. — Aberdeen to Braemar. Sect. Y. Birnie Slack, where tlie stream issues from a deep corrie in the hills and flows for some distance under- ground, or rather under a tremend- ous accumulation of debris of quartz and felspar from the hill. At Clat- tering Brig commences a long tedi- ous ascent (4 m.) of the Cairn o' Mount, from which, however, on a clear day the view is most magnifi- cent. On the other side the road descends to the valley of tlie Dye, a river rising in Mount Battock, and flowing eastward under Clochnabane, 2370 ft. high. The Dye is crossed at 21 ra. Bridge of Dye. Leaving the conical hills of Mount Shade on 1. the road is joined at 23 m. by an- other from Tillyfamry, Auchinblae, and Glenbervie. A little beyond this point the road to Banchory is given off", passing the shooting-lodge of Boggendrip and the hamlet of Strachan, where it crosses the Feugh Water, which is followed down to the Dee at 30 m. Banchory {see p. 335). Stra- chan Manse was the birthplace (1710) of thelearned Dr.Thomas Reid, author of "An Enquiry into the Human Mind." Should the tourist be inclined to prolong his walk he may take the road to the 1., which leads to the banks of the Feugh, and the little inn of WMtestones, where a night's lodging can be had. From thence the Feugh may be explored in the upper part of its course as far as the ruined castle and deer foi-est of Birse, whence a road crosses a gap in the hills and descends to (Rte. 52). Ahoyne by the old Dinny Burn. Should the tourist wish to reach Aboyne by a shorter way he may go direct from Whitestones, passing 1. Finzean and Ballogie House (Dyce Mcholl, Esq.) EOUTE 52. Aberdeen to Braemar, by Ban- chory, Aboyne, Ballater [Rail], and Balmoral. Deeside Ely., 43^ m., 3 trains daily, in 2^ brs., between Aberdeen and Ballater, whence a coach, meet- ing the first train, runs to Braemar, in 24 hrs., 18 m. The line runs for the most part near the river Dee, which drains the S. half of Aberdeenshire, and takes its rise in the highest basin of the Grampian mountains, of which Ben Muich-Dhui is the principal. The entire course of the Dee is about 90 m., and as its source is at a great height the current in some places is extremely rapid. The country watered by it is mostl}'- moorland, though diversified by plantations and natural woods of fir and beech. As compared with the northern part of the county watered by the Don, it is said — " Ae rood o' Don's worth twa 0' Dee, Unless it be for fish or tree." Quitting the General Stat, at Aber- deen (Rte. 50), the rly. soon leaves the line to Forfar and' Perth 1. , and turns sharp to the rt., in view (on 1.) of the rly. bridge, and the Dee Bridge of 7 arches, built in the 16th cent, by Bishop Elphinstone. The ch. on the hill above is that of Nigg. 2 m. Buthrieston Stat., o]iposite which is Banchory House (late A. Thomson, Esq.), where the Prince Consort stayed in 1859, when he came to Aberdeen to preside at the British Association meeting. 4 m. near Cults Stat, is Cults House (George G. S. Gibb, Esq.), and on the opposite side of the river the Kirk of Banchory Dav- enich. Opposite Murtle Siat. , 65 m. , Aberdeen. Pioute 52. — Aberdeen to Braemar. 335 is Blairs College, endowed 1829 by John Menzies, Esq., of Pitfodels, for the education of candidates for the Roman Catholic Priesthood. The college contains portraits of Mary Queen of Scots and Cardinal Beaton. 6g m. Milltimher Stat. Amongst the residences in this neighbourhood are, onl., Kingcausie House, (Mrs. Bos- well), and on rt. Culter (Pt. Duff, Esq). 74 ni. Culter Stat. Near this are paper mills, and rt., the ch. and manse of Peterculter, and 1. those of Maryculter, with Maryculter House (Col. Cosmo Gordon of Fyvie). Near this is the Corbie Den, or Pot, a little i)icturesque rent in the rock, Avith a brook, a cascade, and a deep pool, abounding in botanical speci- mens which are usually to be found only on high mountains. The rly. ascends a steep incline to 10 m. Drum Stat., near which, at Drumoak, the Dee is crossed by a bridge. Drum Castle (A. F. Irvine, Esq.) is finely situated on the slope of a hill, and is a simple square peel- tower (some 600 years old), with bartizan, turrets, and walls 12 ft. to 15 ft. thick. The hall on the 1st floor has been converted into a lib- rary, the groined ceiling of which is adorned with armorial bearings. The lower storey is called the dungeon. The family of Irvine of Drum is of great antiquity, and played a con- spicuous part in the battles of the loth centy., and particularly in that of Harlaw. 1. Durris House (pron. Dores) (A. Young, Esq.), and beyond it is a tower, built upon an eminence in honour of the last Duke of Gordon. rt. Drum Loch. 11 m. Park Stat, and Park House (A. Kinloch, Esq.). Bridge over Dee. [8 m. to the N. is the village of Edit, and I'm. beyond that is the Barmckyne (a corruption of Barbican of Dunecht). It is a conical hill covered with fir-trees, but having on it 5 concentric lines of fortification, 2 of which are still of considerable height. The ramparts are built with a regularity approaching to a face of masonry, and not mere heaps of stones ; it is the most perfect ancient fort in the N. of Scotland. Near the fortress are several stone circles. Dunecht is the seat of Lord Crawford and Balcarres (Lindsay). There is neither history nor tradition belong- ing to it. A little farther on is Mid- mar, formerly called Ballogy, in- habited only by a keeper. It exhibits a mixture of the Baronial with the native Scottish architecture. 15 m. Crathes Stat., and on rt. Crathes Castle (Sir James Burnett Bart.), on the slope of a wooded hill. The original portion is the old square tower, Avith turrets, to which additions have been made at various times. Its top is surmounted by conical turrets, and has a number of dormer windows ; but the lower storeys exhibit the old precautionery style of building, plain and dark. A branch of the house of Burnett produced Gilbert Burnett, Bp. of Sarum, Author of the "History of His Own Times. " Bridge over Dee here. On 1., about 2 m. S., is TilquMllie Castle (J. Sholto Douglas, Esq.), backed up in the distance by the mountains at the head of Glen- esk, conspicuous amongst which is Clochnaben, 1906 ft. 174 m. Banchory- Ternan Stai. {Hotel : Burnett Arms, good) is a neat and picturesque village, includ- ing many villas and a modern Gothic Episcopal ch., well situated above the river at its junction with tlie Feugh, both rivers being crossed by bridges. It is about 1 m. from the stat. Excursions can be made — 336 Route 52. — TorjMns; Ahoyne. Sect. V. a. To Whitestones, 6 m., and the Feugh Water (Rte. 51c). h. To Glen Dye and Fettercairn, 20 m. (Rte. 51c). Quitting Banchory, an d leaving on 1. Blackhall (A. D. Campbell, Esq.), very prettily placed among woods on the S. side the river, and Inchmarlo (P. Davidson, Esq.), the train parts com- pany for a time with the Dee, and reaches 21| m. Glassel Stat. [A little to the ]^. of it is the Hill of Fare, 1794 ft., between which and the rly. is Corrichie, the scene of a fight in 1562 between the Earl of Huntly and the Earl of Murray, in the pre- sence of his sister, Mary Queen of Scots, in which Huntly, the gi-eat potentate of N.E. Scotland, was de- feated and slain, and the power of the House of Gordon broken. A well near the place is still called Queen Mary's Well. On the S. slope of the Hill of Fare is Campfield (Miss Scott), and on the northern side is Midmar {ante), charmingly situated in a w^ll-wooded recess.] Leaving on rt. Cragmyle (J. Gordon, Esq.), the traveller reaches 24 m. Torphhxs Stat, the rly. hav- ing diverged from the line of the old road, passes out of sight of Potarch Bridge and the -village of Kincardine-O'' Neil {Inn ; Gordon Arms), a favourite resort of those who wish pure and bracing air. At Potarch Bridge, 2 m. (a comfortable little Inn), where a road runs S. through Kincardineshire to Fetter- cairn, 10 m. (Rte. 51c), the scenery is very picturesque, the Dee becoming excessively contracted in its channel, more so, indeed, than at any part of its course. From Torphins the line runs southward to Lumphanan, crossing the pretty dingle of the Beltie Burn, and having on rt. Pitmurchie (Mrs. Lamond), and Findrack (F. G. Eraser, Esq.) 27 m. Lumphanan Stat. (Railway Inn), to the rt. of which, and close to the line, is the " Peel Bog,'^ a cir- cular earthwork, about 120 ft. in dia- meter and 18 ft. high, surrounded by a moat. It was probably con- structed about the 10th centy., and Lord Hailes supposes that Macbeth made his last stand here. Farther on is Macbeth's Cairn, supposed to mark the place where Macbeth, flee- ing from his castle at Dunsinane, met his death at the hands of Mac- duff. Burn ; and Desswood (A. Davidson, Esq.). 32| m. Aboyne Stat. {Inn .- Huntly Arms, good), sometimes called Charleston of Aboyne — a pretty village, surrounded by plantations and green fields. Ahoyne Castle, the seat of the Marquis of Huntly, dates back to the 11th cent., though there is little left of that period. It was repaired, or perhaps restored, in 1671, and the E. wing was added in 1801. The bridge over the Dee at Aboyne was swept away by the floods in 1829, and was replaced by the present suspension bridge. [On rt. a road runs to Strathdon through Tarland, to which place there is a coach 3 days a week. At Tarland (Migvie), fair Inn. In the ch. -yard is a sculptured stone monu- ment, and near it a wecm or Pict's house.] Glentanner, running S.W. from Aboyne, is highly picturesque, and will repay a visit. From Aboyne the rly. runs across the Moor of Dinnet — a bleak un- promising tract of country — to Dinnet Stat., at the foot of Loch Kinnord, a very pretty lake, fringed with wood, and a good "find" for aquatic plants. One of its islands Aberdeen. Roide 52. — Burn of the Vat ; Ballater. 337 contains a small fort, once used as a place of confinement. [2 m. from Dinnet, to the rt. of tlie line, is seen the fine range of CuJ- hlecn, which was the scene of a battle in 1335 between David Bruce and the Earl of Athole, and the cairns in the neighbourhood are said to cover the slain. In the face of the mountain is a small gully, at the entrance to which (a short distance from the road) is a very singular hollow or cauldron, scooped out by the torrent's action stirring round stones and pebbles, called the " Burn of the Vat. " " In this place the rocks are about 60 ft. liigh on one side, though lower on the other. A mass of rock blocks up the fissure, leaving on one side a small passage for the brook, and on the other an aperture 2^ to 4 ft. broad and 9 ft. high. The water is thus impeded, and accumulates in the fissure, where it has scooped out the lower part of the rocks on either side in the form of a concavity, like half the top of a dome. The breadth is 24 yards below, but only 16 above. " There is a small cave behind the little waterfall, through which a rapid entrance must be forced, when a small hollow will be discovered. It is a pleasant walk of 5 m. from the Bm-n of the Vat to Ballater.] On the opposite side of the river is the village called Castle of Dec, from the Castle of Candacaile, once a stronghold of the Earls of Huntly, but of which there are now no re- mains. Near this, the grand mountain mass of Morven (2860 ft.) becomes conspicuous, N. At Ballatrich, also upon the oppo- site side of the Dee, Byron spent some weeks of his boyhood, and the beauty of the scenery seems to have made a lasting impression on the mind of the young poet — [Scotland.'^ " When I see some dark hill point its crest to the sky, I think of the rocks that o'ershadow Culbleen ; When I see the soft blue of a love-speak- ing eye, I think of those eyes that endear'd the rude scene." The cottage in which he and his mother lived is still pointed out, and the cupboard bed on which he slept is shown at the farmhouse. The line now x>^sses an obelisk memorial to Farquharson of Monal- trie, and the Pannaiiich Wells, a long white building, capable of accommodating about 30 patients. The water is strongly impregnated with iron. The scenery now im- proves as the tourist nears Ballater, the bleak moorland giving place to mountain scenery of the most pic- turesque description. 42 m. Ballater. — Terminus of the Deeside Rly. Coach twice a day to Braemar, 18 m. The village of Bal- later {Inn : Invercauld Arms, very good) is finely placed on the 1. bank of the Dee, just below the junction of the Muick burn, descending through a grand glen from the S. flanks of Lochnagar. It is sur- rounded by wooded hills and distant mountains. A wooden bridge crosses the Dee, a substitute for the fine old granite bridge which Avas swept away by the flood of 1829. In the summer Ballater is very full of visitors, who resort to it partly for the sake of the minwal waters of Pannaninch (which are good for dys- pepsia), but still more for tlie purity of its air and the beauty of its situa- tion. The principal amusements are mountain excursions, although it must be remembered that in the shooting season the passes are jeal- ously watched by the keepers, in order that the deer may not be dis- turbed. Good salmon-fishing may be had by people staying at the hotel who choose to pay for it. On the N. of the village rises Craig-an- Q 338 Boute 52. — Ballater to Braemar. Sect. Y Darroch (1 400 ft. ), covered with trees and coppice, commanding a yery pleasing view, and easily accessible. At its foot is Menaltrie Honse. There is a fine view from the sum- mit of the hill, which is easy of access, a path running up from about j m. on the Braemar road. Behind it is a precipitous wooded ravine, called the Pass of Ballater, a veiy charming excursion on a hot day. To the ^L rises Morven (2880 ft.\ remarkable for having scarce!}'' any heather upon its sides, tliough the lower portions are thickly clad with juniper. " When I roved a young Higlilander o'er the dark heath. And climbed thy steep summit, Mor- ven, of snow ! To gaze on the toiTents that thundered beneath, Or the mist of the tempest that gather- ed helovr ." —Byron. [Loehnagar, 12 m. from Ballater, to the top, is one of the most promi- nent features in Byron's Highland reminiscences, which neither time nor distance effaced from his me- mory— " The infant rapture still survived the boy, And Loehnagar with Ida looke-d o'er Troy, Mixed Celtic memories with the Phiygian mount, And Highland linns with Castalie's fair fount." The mountain is 3800 ft. above the level of the sea, but Ballater itself is 780 ft. at the bridge. The road, crossing the bridge, stretches S. out of the Valley of the Dee, about a mile above Ballater, and ascends by the rt. bank of its tributary, the Muick. The ascent is fatiguing, and at the latter portions difficult. A guide can be procured at the hotel (charge 5s.) The road {by Loch Muick) will be found in Ete. 51, but the generality of visitors prefer as(?ending Loehnagar from Castleton of Braemar (see p. 341).] SJiort Excursions from Ballater — a. Pass of Ballater, round Craig- an-Darroch, 5 m. h. Ballatrich, Byron's Cottage, 5 m., and Pannanich Wells, 2 m. [see abov-e). c. Burn of the Vat, 5 m., and Loch Kinnord, 5 m. on the road to Tarland. d. Linn of Muick, 5 m. ; Loch Muick, 9 m., the Royal Domain. e. Cairn of Morven, 6 m. Longer Excursions — a. To Dhu Loch, 13 m. ; Loeh- nagar, 12. ^. Balmoral, 9 m. ; Forest of Bal- lochbuie (Falls of Garrawalt), 17. (Ete. 52a). y. Capel Mount, 12 m. ; Clova Inn, 18 (Ete. 51). 5. Mount Keen, 9 m. ; Loch Lee, 15 ; Edzell, 29 ; Burn, 27 ; Brechin, 35 (Ete. 61b). The road to Braemar, a.scendiug the k bank of the Dee, winds round Craig-an-Darroch, passes Craig-an- Darroch Cottage, with the Dee brawl- ing beneath, and the entrance to the Pass of Ballater, to 44 m. Tordarnicli, where the Gairn is crossed. [Braemar to Strathsjyey. — A very hilly road ; requires 9 hrs. with the same horses, which must be rested (no change) on the way. A branch road on rt. to Grantown (35 m.), through Gairnshiel and Tomantoul. It is the usual post road, but pre- sents no object of interest. 4 m. Rienloan Inn, on the Gairn Water (whence a loop road is given off to Braemar). At Abergairn are lead mines on Marquis of Huntly's propert}'-. 13 m. at Corgarff Castle, a dreary looking 4-storeyed fortress, last occu- SC0TLAI^^D. Route b2. — Balmoral. 339 pied as a baiTack (Cock Bridge Inn)^ the road crosses Strathdon (Rte. 54). 22 m. Tomantoul [Inn : Eiclimond Arms, fair) is an miinteresting wretched village on the banks of the Avon. Thence the road con- tinues westward to Grantown, by the Bridge of Bruan (Rte. 52a). ] From Tordarnich the road to Brae- mar lies through a district pleasantly diversified with wood. On 1. is Craig Youzie, " Hill of Firs, " a charming bit of scenery. In front may now be seen the Prince's Cau-n. 49 m., on the opposite bank, 1., Ahergeldie Castle, an old turreted square tower, enlarged by modern additions, which used to be inhabited by the Duchess of Kent, is now occu- pied by the Prince of Wales when visiting Scotland. The river is cross- ed here by a rope and cradle-bridge. Next comes into view (1.) the white spire of the Parish Church of Crathie, often attended by Her Majesty, who has presented it 'with stained glass windows commemorative of the Prince Consort and Rev. Dr. Norman Macleod. Just beyond is the obe- lisk to the memory of the late Prince Consort, put up by his tenantry. Above this is the Cairn and monu- uiental Statue, of the Prince. A mag- nificent view is obtained of Lochnagar, rising behind and above two nearer and lower peaks. There is a suspen- sion foot-bridge over the Dee at Crathie. Near the Free Ch. is the Lochnagar Distillery. A private bridge crosses the Dee to Balmoral, but there is no public road south of the river from Balmoral to Braemar. On a slightly elevated plain, at the foot of the hill of Craig-an- Gowan, and bounded by a curve of the Dee, stands Balmoral Castle, the Queen's Scottish residence. The re- version of the lease of the property was acquired in 1848 by Prince Albert from the trustees of the late Sir Ro- bert Gordon, and on its expiry the estate itself was purchased from the trustees of the Earl of Fife for £31,500. It is a castellated palatial mansion in the Scottish style, with a tall and picturesque tower at one end, flanked by bartizan turrets. The whole is of white granite, and was designed and planned by the Prince Consort, to occupy the place of an older building. The in- terior is not shown ; nor, indeed, is there anything within to excite curio- sity, the whole arrangement being simple in the extreme, but in perfect good taste, and suited to a Highland residence. The chief ornament is a statue (by Theed) of the Prince Con- sort, in his Highland dress, in the corridor ; which is also studded with stags' horns and other hunting deco- rations. The Queen's retirement from State and public affairs will be respected by all who approach, and protect her from any attempt at intrusion. The castle and grounds are well seen from the high road, together with the model farm and schools built by Her Majesty. The ball-room, for occasional festivities of the Queen's retainers, occupies a detached wing to the N. The gar- dens and half wild grounds, very picturesque, stretch to the base of the fine wooded hill, Craig-an-Gowan. Besides a bronze statue of the Prince in this Park, near the entrance, there are on different heights commemo- rative Cairois. The estate comprises 10,000 a^es, and about 30,000 of deer forest, including Birkhall, Abergeldie, and Lochnagar. Beyond Crathie the road passes on rt. the remains of the old house of MoiutUrie, burned in 1745 ; and on 1. is a cairn on a hill, to comme- morate the .marriage of the Princess Alice, and, farther on, of the Prin- cess Royal. In the valley between them is the Home Farm of Balmoral. 340 Route 52. — Inverccmld ; Braemar. Sect. V. Just at the edge of the river is a small mound, on which is a group of firs. This is the Cairn-iia-cidmhnue, or Cairn of Reckoning, it heing the custom of the Farquharsons to as- semble here previous to an expedition, and deposit each man a stone. On their return they each picked one off, and the number left on the cairn marked the loss of the clan. On 1. is Invergelder, where the Gelder runs into the Dee. A lodge has been built for Her Majesty in Glen GelcUr. A little farther on the coach stops to bait at Liver Inn. The hills now begin to close in as the road enters the dark precincts of Col. Farquharson's Forest of Ballochhuic, a grand amphitheatre of woods that extend for miles, nearly to the sum- mits of the mountains, and present, probably, the finest example of a forest in Great Britain. [The walks and drives through it are private, but at the lodge, close to Invercauld Bridge over the Dee, there is a walk across the old bridge and through the forest to the Falls of Garrawalt. Although exceedingly beautiful, they are not remarkable for depth or height, the sti'eam de- scending by a number of small leaps, overhung by dark firs or graceful birches. A bridge has been thrown over the Falls, which are best seen from the summerhouse on the oppo- site side. Tourists must keep the prescribed road, as otherwise the deer may be disturbed. The Garra- walt Falls are 5 m. from Braemar.] At Invercauld Bridge the road to Castleton of Braemar crosses the Dee, while that to Invercauld and Linn of Dee continues along the 1. bank. The country here is finely wooded, with abrupt bold hills, conspicuous among which is Craig Cluny (on 1. ), a peak of solid granite, fringed with pines, and overhanging the road. Not quite halfway up are the re- mains of an old tower, which goes by the name of the " Laird of Cluny's Charter Chest," because there in un- settled times and when pressed by enemies, the Laird of Cluny used to hide his title - deeds. The valley here expands, and presently Inver- cauld House, the seat of Col. Far- quharson, comes in sight, on the opposite (1. ) bank of the Dee, a mag- nificent domain. The mansion, in part dating from the 15th centy., received the addition of a tower on its old foundations, and other im- provements in the Baronial style, 1874. On the rising of the Earl of Mar, 1715, he dated from this house his address calling out the clans, whose chiefs were assembled here. It stands on a green bank, facing the Forest of Ballochbuie, and is pro- tected by a densely-covered amphi- theatre of hills. The tall perpen- dicular clifi" of quartz in front of Invercauld House is called the ^^ Lion's Face^" from a supposed resemblance. Braemar Castle, a tall, plain white- washed building, also belonging to the family of Invercauld, occupies a fine situation. It has neither anti- quity nor history to recommend it. It was lased as a barrack, and was long garrisoned by Hanoverians, to keep the Highlanders in check, and, from its four storeys and want of ornament, seems to have been built for that purpose. In front of it are held the annual Highland games. Opposite the castle, on the other side of the Dee, is a monument to the late Mr. Farquharson of Invercauld. Rounding a sharp turn and ]iassing the little cemetery, the tourist reaches 60 m. Castleton of Braemar {Inns: Fisher's Invercauld Arms, best situa- tion ; Fife Arms ; both good) a scat- tered village at the junction of tlie Clunie torrent, from the S., with the Dee, at the height of 1180 ft. above the sea. It is consequently cele- brated for the extreme purity and Aberdeen. Route 62. — Braemar ; Lochnagar. 341 bracing character of its air. It is a simple rustic village, and offers little accommodation besides the two hotels and some few shops ; but new lodging- houses and villas are springing up. There are two places of worship — the Parish Ch. and Free Ch. — and during the summer months an Ei^iscopaliau service is held at Mar Lodge. A clump of trees near the bridge over the Clunie, which dashes in leaps and falls through the midst of the village to join the Dee, marks the site of the ancient castle of Braemar, which is assigned to the age of ]\Ialcolm Canmore. The rock upon which the Earl of Mar raised the standard of rebellion in 1715 has been removed to make way for the estension of building required for the Invercauld Arms. On the opposite side of Glen Clunie is Morrone, a massive moun- tain, 2800 ft. above the sea, com- manding a fine view. On it is the farm of Tomantoul, said to be the highest cultivated land in the king- dom. The following botanical spe- cimens are found on it : — Cerastium alpinum, Eubus chamtemorus. Aza- lea procumbens, Trientalis europsea, Juncus triglunis, etc. From its proximity to the finest mountain scenery in Scotland, Brae- mar is a great centre of attraction. The attempt to close the Deer Forests to strangers by the proprietors, some- what interferes with pedestrian wan- derings {see Introd. to Sect. V.). Conveyances. — Coaches tmce a-day to Ballater Stat.^ 18 m. ; coach every alternate day to Blairgowrie and Dunkeld, by Spital of Glenshee, 15 m. ; Bridge of Cally, 29 m. (Rte. 62b). Short Excursions : — Panics and Guides may be hired at the rate of 7s. 6d. to 10s. each, for the entire day. Cai's and Post-liorses are kept at both the inns. a. To the top of Morrone (the hill behind Castleton), 3 m., fine view. h. To Corrymulzie Linn, 3 m. ; Linn of Dee, 6 m. ; and back by Linn of Quoicli (Rte. 52a), follow- ing the 1. bank of the Dee, past In- vercauld House, recrossing the Dee at Invercauld Bridge ; a jjieasant round of about 17 m., during which the grand peaks of the Aberdeenshire Grampians are seen one after the other. c. Falls of Garrawalt, 5 m. ; and Forest of Ballochbuie (Rte. 52). d. Lochnagar, 13 m., by Loch Callater. Long Excursions : — a. To Bachnagairn, 11 m. ; and Clova, 18 m. (Rte. 51). ^. To Ben Muich-dhui, 20 m. ; and Wells of Dee, Larig Pass, 21 m., and Aviemore, 35 m. (Rte. 52a). Ascent of Ben Muich-dhui, or Cairn- gorm, 20 m., 14 hours to go and re- turn ; you may drive as far as Gleu Derrie. Take provisions. y. To Balmoral, 9 m. ; and Balla- ter Stat., 18 m. (Rte. 52). 8. To Blair- Athole, by Glentilt, 29 m. (Rte. 52c). e. Lochnagar, "The Jewel of the Mountains " hereabouts, as the Queen has styled him, 3789 ft., is oftener as- cended from Braemar than from any other place. Those who are not used to mountains should take a guide, 7s. 6d. ; pony, 7s. 6d. Time required, 74 to 8 hours. For a considerable distance the path is not marked, and, in case of mist, it is easy to lose the way to the top. Good walkers can easily do it all on foot ; but those who are not, can lighten the day's work by driving as far as Loch Callater, 5 m., taking the route to Spital of Glenshee. Go up Glen Clunie for 2 m. as far as the farm of Achal- later, where Glen Callater comes in on 1. The road up that Glen keeps to the 1. bank of the Callater river. Do not cross by the first wooden bridge, but by the second, soon after which the road divides. Take the one to the 1., and follow it to the 312 lits. 52, Loclinagar. — 52a, Bmemar to Aviemore. Sect.Y. foot of Loch Callatcr, where there is a farmhouse or lodge. A ])^t\\ will be seen breasting the steep hill on 1. This track bears away to the rt. round the shoulder of the hill, and leads to the top. After rounding the corner it enters a glen formed by three mountains, the centre of which is Cairn Taggart or Priest's Hill. The path does not go to the top of Cairn Taggart, but winds spirally round it, passing ovei* its farther shoulder. The heather will be missed at this point, this side of the hill being exposed to the S. E. winds. The next glen, like the last, has three summits, of whicli Little Cairn Taggart is the centre. To the ex- treme rt. is Dhu Loch, a dark, soli- tary pool, 2050 ft. above the sea. Winding round the base of Little Cairn Taggart the path crosses the stream which separates it from Locli- nagar. This is the ]\Iuick Water, which, running from some springs high up on the 1., passes through Dhu Loch, and thence into Loch Muick. But the top of Loclinagar is not visible until an elevated plateau is reached, where the two peaks that form its highest points appear at some little distance to the 1. Below and on the same side, at the foot of the cliff, is seen the Loch-an-Nean (Bird's Loch), from which the Garra- walt takes its rise. At the foot of the principal peak is Lochnagar (Hare's Loch), which gives its name to the mountain. The view from the top is very fine, but embraces little but mountain peaks. To the extreme S. are the Lomond Hills, next to which is Ben Ledi, while Ben Cruachan and Sclie- hallion stand out in fine relief, with Ben More and Ben-y-Gloe due W. To the N.W. is the gigantic range of Braeriach, Ben lluich-dhui, and Cairngorm, with Morven and minor chains gradually sinking down to the Aberdeenshire hills. Lochnagar is celebrated for its botanical specimens, but great care must be taken in searching for them, on account of the numerous precipices. In some respects the view from Lochnagar is superior to that from Ben Muich-dhui, although the latter is 500 ft. higher. On a neighbouring summit rises a monu- mental Cairn of stones raised b}^ Queen Victoria in memory of the Prince Consort. Liscribed tablets are inserted in it. Excursion to the Linn of Quoich, a picturesque waterfall in the beauti- ful Glen Quoich, commencing under Ben-na-Bourd, and joining the Dee at AUanquoich, about 2 m. above Braemar. But between the two places the Dee intervenes, and there is no foot-bridge to cross it. There is a ford about 1 m. above Castleton, practicable for carriages, except when the Dee is high, and there is a pri- vate ferry-boat (6d. fare) about a mile lower down, available for foot passen- gers. Failing these, one must drive round by Linn of Dee, and descend its 1. bank to the mouth of Glen Quoich. There is a bridge of the Earl of Fife's to ]\lar Lodge ; but this is completely closed to the tourist public. The Linn of Quoich, though exceedingly picturesque, is of no great volume of water. The stream nishes along, over a succession of rocky ledges, and in its fretted course, whirling the loose stones along with it, has scooped out several hollows in the micaceous schist, which have earned for it the name of " Quoich " (Cup). ROUTE 52a. Braemar to Aviemore, by Linn of Dee, "Wells of Dee, and the Larig Rue Pass. [Ascents of Ben Mulch- dhni, and Loch A'an (Avon).] Distances. — To Linn of Dee, 6 m. ; Glen Derrie, 9 m. for pedestrians, who Scotland. Route 52a. — Corriemulzie ; Linn of Dee. 343 cau cut across into tlie Glen direct from Linn of Dee (carriages must make a circuit of 3 m.) ; to "Wells of Dee, 21 m. ; Top of Larig, 22 m. These routes lead the pedestrian into the midst of the Cairngorm Mountains, over pathless wastes, and unfold some of the grandest scenes in all Scotland. But the distance from Braemar to the Spey at Avie- more is fully 35 m., and there is scarce a hut, and no inn or house of shelter on the way, therefore only robust pedestrians should attemj)t it. Take provisions and jjlaid. Comparatively few are able to per- form the whole of the Larig Rue Pass, owing to the distance, and the wild and uninhabited country. But the ascent of Ben Muich-dhui may be made from Braemar, by starting early and driving to Glen Derrie ; the rest of the work may be got through - on foot or pony-back, and a return made to Braemar by nightfall. The best plan is for a party to club to- gether and get a break from the hotel for 20s. ; guide, 10s. Warm plaids and cloaks should be taken, as tlie warmth or severity of the weather in Deeside is no criterion whatever of what it may be 3000 ft. higher up. As the road runs up the Dee valley the scenery is varied and interesting. It is a beautiful terrace drive, overlooking the Dee, Glen Quoich and the farm of Allanquoich being on the rt. ; Avhile above these rise in succession the summits of Cairngorm, Ben Muich-dhui, and the flat-topped mountain of Ben-na- Bourd. 3 m. 1. is Corriemulzie Cotta,ge, or Mar Lodge (Earl of Fife), said to stand on higher ground than any gentleman's residence in Scotland. To see t\\%Fall of Corriemulzie, which is almost immediately under the bridge, pass through a wicket gate on rt., and down to the summer- house. The pretty stream falls over a precipice about 30 ft. high, the ravine being of considerable depth, and charmingly slirouded with foli- age. The path follows the stream down to the river, 4 m. rt. On the other side the Dee, which is crossed by a wooden bridge (closed to the public), is- Old ]\Iar Lodge, a seat of the Earl of Fife, let for shooting. [A little farther on 1. is Lnvercii, at the junction of the Ey with the Dee. It is worth while to follow the stream up for a little distance, for the sake of the views of the Cairn- gorms. I m. up the glen the Ey receives a tributary from Glen Corry. Follow the path up the Ey. It leads to a deep chasm, through which the stream flows. In the rocks above is the ^''ColoyieVs Bed," or "Rebel's Cave," said to be the hiding-place of one of the Farquharsons, wdio was " out " with the Earl of Mar in 1715. A ledge a few feet above the water, 100 ft. in length, and from 4 to 12 in breadth, overhung by the rock behind, forms the "bed."] 6 4 m. The Linn of Dee is a nar- row fissure between rocks of mica slate, through which the river has to struggle, fretting against the sharp sides, and-tumbling down some 4 or 5 small cascades. The rocks on either side project over the water to within 4 ft. of one another, and in flood-times, when the chasm is nearly filled up by the torrent, it is very grand. Lord Byron, when a boy, had a narrow escape here, by his foot catching in some heather, and falling, he was rolling downwards, when an attendant seized hold of him and saved his life. Over the Linn a handsome bridge of white Aberdeen granite was built in 1857, and opened by the Queen. Around the Linn and N. of the Dee are some grand Scotch firs, relics of the ancient forest. The return to Castleton of Bi'aemar may be varied by taking the road down the I. bank of the Dee by Invercauld, 12 m. 344 Boute 52a. — Glen Derrie ; Ben Mukh-dhui. Sect. V. [For continuation of route from Linn of Dee to Blair- Atliole by Glen- tilt ; or to Kingussie, see Ete. 52c.] Between Linn of Dee and its source, the Wells of Dee, the river makes a gi-eat bend, and only the upper part of its course is interest- ing. The way thither may be much shortened by ascending Glen Lui to Glen Derrie by the chord of the arc, and this is also the way to reach Ben Muich-dhui. There is a stile in the wall, which will enable the pedestrian to reach the lodge at Glen Derrie in 3 m., cutting off a large angle and crossing the Lui by a footbridge. The carriage- road from the Linn of Dee turns sharp to the rt. Follow it till the next road joins it on 1. This leads up a hill and through a forest, then by the banks of the Lui to the shooting-lodge of Ghn Derrie, where the Derrie joins the Lui Beg, forming the main stream of the Lui. Glen Derrie Lodge, 12 m. from Braemar (let for shooting), with a forester's cottage, is beautifully situated near the junction of the Derrie with the Lui, and surrounded on all sides by mountains. Here the carriage must be left. Distances — To Wells of Dee about 8 m., to top of Ben ]\Iuicli-dhui, 3 hours. The vale of the Derrie on the rt. leads to Loch A' an and to the valley of the Spey by the East Larig Pass, that of Lui Beg on the 1. leads to the Larig Eue and Wells of Dee, while out of it lies the best ascent of Ben Muich-dhui. The ascent of Ben Muich-dhui is commenced here. Cross the Derrie by a footbridge, and keep alongside its rt. bank through an open wood of firs, which the wind and floods are rapidly thinning. At the end of this cross the Derrie again, and a naked glen succeeds, bounded on the N. by Ben-na-Main (distinguished by a cairn on the summit), behind which is Loch Avon. On the 1. is Little Cairngorm, through a deep corrie of which on the N. side the Water of Ettichan flows into the Derrie. After proceeding about 4 m. cross the Derrie once more, just below the junction, and turn W. up Corrie Ettichan to Loch Etti- chan, which is passed on the rt, " lying like a drop of ink at the base of a huge, dark, mural precipice." During the steep and long ascent splendid \iews are obtained of the table-land that separates Glen Derrie and Glen Quoich, with the long flat outline, and IST. and S. summits of Ben-na-Bourd. The path is now pretty well defined, and by keeping to the 1. a gradual ascent leads to the top of Ben Muich-dhui, 4296 ft. above the sea, a broad level platform marked by a cairn. It is the second highest mountain in Great Britain (Ben Nevis being the highest by 110 ft.), is the centre of the Great Cairngorm gi'oup of the Grampians, and is flanked by 4 main outliers — to the W. Braeriach, 4285 ft. ; to the N. Cairn- gorm, 4095 ft. ; to the S. Cairu- toul, 4249 ft., and Monach More ; and to the E. Ben-na-Main. East- Avard of this again are the 2 peaks of Ben-na-Bourd, 4039 ft., and Ben Avon or Ben A'an, 3968 ft., all of which are composed of ruddy coarse-gi-ained granite. Transparent smoked quartz crystals are found on these moim- tains, often of large size, and adapted for cutting, though the particular brown crystals, known as "Cairn- gorms," are not limited to this dis- trict. The upper regions of these hills are bare and devoid of vegeta- tion, but their sides are full of springs, as is usually the case in granite for- mations. The Lui, the Dee, and the Avon, spring from Ben Muich-dhui. The iST.E. side of Ben Muich-dhui consists of a precipitous front from 1000 to 1500 ft. in height, beneath which lies Loch A'an, 3 m. in length. The W. side also is grandly precipi- tous, the extraordinary character of Scotland. Bmite 52a. — Ben Muich-dliul ; Loch A'an. 345 the view consisting in the fact that it is separated from the adjoining mountains of Cairntoul, Braeriach, Cairngorm, and Ben-na-Main, by such narrow valleys that the}^ may almost be called clefts. " Standing on the western shoulder, you might almost imagine that you might throw a stone on to Braeriach. Yet be- tween these two summits rolls the river Dee, and Braeriach presents, right opposite to the hill on which you stand, a mural precipice 2000 ft. high." — Burton. This knot of giant mountains rise close upon the junction of the coun- ties of Aberdeen, Bantf, and Inver- ness. Cairngorm, which is nearly 4 m. N. of Ben Muich-dhui, may be reached with little difficulty by the long ridge which extends from one to the other. The whole range, with its savage cauldrons and cairns, consists of granite — "a rock which, from its usual decomposing character, and its abundant vertical joints, combines in its decay a grandeur of lofty clitf with a smoothness of mountain top, such as none of the other Highland rocks can boast." — Geikie. Flcmts found at the various altitudes of this range : — Thalictrum alpinum, Silene acaulis, Cerastium latifolium, Astragalus alpinus, Alchemilla al- piua, Kubus Chamaemorus, Gnapha- lium lupinum, Erigeron alpinum, Saussurea alpina, Epilobium alpi- num, Ledum Ehodiola, Saxifraga stellaris, S. oppositifolia, S. csespi- tosa, Azalea procumbens, Vaccinium m}Ttillus, V. Vitis-Idtea, Y. uligino- sum, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi, Yero- nica alpina, Oxyria reniformis, Juni- perus alpinus, Salix herbacea, S. lanata, S. myrsinites, Juncus trifidus, J. triglumis, Carex rigida, C. saxa- tilis, C. rupestris, C. leporina, C. vaginata, C. ctipillaris, Alopecurus alpinus, Aira alpina, Festuca vivi- para, etc. From Ben Muich-dhui the ti'aveller may descend to Loch A' an, and, if provided with plaid and provisions, may pass the night under the "Shelter Stone," {see below). In a neighbouring hollow, generally containing a large deposit of snow, is the source of the Avon, which after a devious course over the table-land through the moss, plunges down from the edge of the precipice in a succes- sion of falls. Its bed may be used as a rough stair down to Loch A'an. Ascent of Ben A'an — Loch A'an. 10 m. from the Shiel of Derrie. Ascend Glen Derrie as though going up Ben Muich-dhui, but in- stead of turning to the 1, up the Ettichan, keep due N., and cross the shoulder of the hill to the Dhu Loch, which lies under and to the E. of Ben-na-Maia. The streamlet issu- ing out of it, if followed, will bring the traveller to the Avon, of which it is a feeder. The Avon is met hurrying down to the Spey. Here cross the Avon, and follow up its I. bank about a mile to the spot where it issues from Loch Avon, and, although it is going out of the way to do so, this is the easiest plan of visiting Loch Avon or A 'an. It is a beautiful though lonely and solemn sheet of blue water, even at such a height overshadowed by the precipitous sides of the surrounding mountains, 3 m. long and 1 m. broad. It is fed by the small stream which issues from a cleft between Ben Muich-dhui and Cairngorm, and falls in a string of cataracts 900 ft. high. At the head of the loch, on the N. side, under the precipice, is the ' ' Clach Dhian"or ^' SJielter Stone," & huge rock of granite fallen from above upon 2 smaller blocks which sup- port it, forming a shallow cave, the only refuge in case of a storm, and in some cases the only night's lodg- ings that the pedestrian can procure. From Loch Avon issues the Avon river, the puiity of whose water is so great that rt has given rise to the country proverb — 346 Route 52a. — Larig Bue Pass. Sect. V. " The Water of A"an it rises sae clear 'T would beguile a man o' a liunder year." The Avon follows a devious course through a trackless waste until it reaches the Spey, near Inveravon. From the I)hu Loch the path crosses the Avon, and &till keeping X. crosses a secondary range of liills near Bein-na-Bynach, from which it descends (N.\V.) into the Nethy valley, to join a road between Bridge of Bruan and Rothiemurchus, or else to follow the Nethy Water to Abernethy (Rte. 48). The distance from Glen Derrie to Abernethy is about 22 m. g. The Larig Bue Pass and the Wells of Dee. " The grizzly cliffs which guard The infant hills of highland Dee, Where hunter's horn was never heard, Nor bugle of the forest bee, 'Mid wastes that dern and dreary Ire One mountain rears its mighty form. Disturbs the moon in passing by. And smUes above the thunderstorm." Hogg. From Glen Derrie to Aviemore, by the Larig Rue Pass, keep straight up Glen Liii and cross the Derrie by a footbridge, and follow a well- marked path, made for the transport of the deer, still keej)ing up Glen Lui, but instead of turning N. towards Ben Muich-dhui, cross the Lui by stepping-stones, and keep on due W. along the shoulder of the hill, until it leads by a moderate ascent into the valley of the Dee. Here the path' ceases to be well marked, and the ground becomes wet. Ascend on the 1. (E.) side of the Dee, but first look back and around on the view — Lochnagar and Ben-y-Gloe are prominent. The wanderer is now encircled by the most magnificent scenery of Glen Dee. The cradle of the Dee is walled in by mountains whose sides are abrupt precipices, and they vary in height from 1000 to 2000 ft. Looking X. you have rt.,' Ben Muich-dhui ; in front the Larig Pass, and the Dee descending from it in steps. On the 1. of the Larig rise Braeriach and Cairntoul, and between these, on the W., open two tremendous corries or dark glens, each sending her tributarj'- to the infant Dee, the Garacharj^ 3 m. from the source, which even claims to be the Dee itself, and the Geusachan 2 m. lower, the waters of both leaping down in cascades like white ribbon. 3 m. above the junction of the Gara- chary with the Dee are the Wells of Dec, a series of 5 natural steps, sup- porting ponds or basins, the largest of which is 250 yds, in circumfer- ence, through which the river passes in succession. The Dee is at first lost to the eye, the water descending into a chaos of huge gi-anite blocks, through which it passes hid from sight. On either side is a wall of clifi' of tremendous height, which seems to shut the world entirely out — a scene of utter desolation and solitude-. The path runs above and to the L of the Wells, and requires considerable care on the part of the traveller who has to thread his way over the loose rocks. It has to sur- mount a great mass of debris of the red granite from Ben Mac-dhui, the result, perhai^s, of the grinding of souie ancient glaciers, piled high up against the opposite slope. Soon after crossing the crest the traveller falls in with another stream running N, to the Spey, the Alt or Larig- Drill, which runs for 6 or 7 m. in a N.W. direction. By degrees, after 8 or 10 miles of as hard and rough walking as the Highlands can show, views are opened up of Speyside, the woods of Rothiemurchus and Avie- more in the distance. Aboitt 2 m. on the other side of the crest the geologist will notice some glacier heaps of enormous size, like huge railway embankments. The path now proceeds; -above the rt. bank of the Alt Drui, which 5 m. below the pass receives from the W. the Benny Perthshire. FiOiite 52b. — Braemar to DunMd. 347 Burn, through Gleumore, Avhere are the remains of what was once a noble forest. Next it threads some of the Eothiemurchus woods, which the owner is rapidly thinning, and leaves Loch Morlich on the rt. It then crosses the river and reaches the keeper's house. Re-cross the river by a stone bridge, and keep the 1. bank, past some huts and saw- mills to Inverdrui, where the Spey is crossed by a timber bridge. Im- mediately on the other side is Avievwre Stat., and 2 m. from it towards Kingussie is Lynvuilg Inn (Rte. 48). ROUTE 52b. Braemar to Dunkeld [and Pit- loclirie], by Spital of Glen- shee, Bridge of CaHy, and Blairgowrie. A coach runs every second day, but if coming from Blairgowrie the tourist had better take the precau- tion of securing his place beforehand, as the coach is often full, and the hotel-keepers at Blairgowrie demand exorbitant prices for post-carriages. Between Braemar and Spital of Glenshee the road crosses a high pass of the Grampian range, the ascent of which by horses from either side involves 4 miles at a walking pace. The road gradually ascends Glen Clunie, along the rt. bank of the river. 2. m. Auchallater Farm, where the Callater burn flows in on 1. (Rte. 52a), up Avhich lies the road to Lochna- gar. 5 m. Glen Baddoch comes in on rt. by Mr. Kennedy's lodge, and Glen Clunie makes a turn to the 1. The road now becomes very steep, and by a succession of zigzags gains the summit of the range at Cairn Well. Glasmeal, 3502 ft., is a fine object on the 1., although it is not so broken and precipitous on the X. as on the S. side. The pedestrian who wishes for a fine scramble may cross the shoulder, and descend into Caen- lochan, and thence into Glen Isla (Rte. 51a). The high road from Cairn Well descends by a long incline with awkward turns, popularly known as the JJevU's ElhovK Here the county of Perth is entered. Glenbeg is followed down to 15 m. Spital of Glenshee, a fair posting Inn, with 2 or 3 cottages, finely placed at the junction of Glen- beg with Glens Tatnich and Lochy, the imited rivers of which form the Shee. On the opposite bank is a tumulus, with a clump of trees, known as Diarmid's- Tomb. [From the Spital the pedestrian who wishes to go to Pitlochrie may save the round by Bridge of Cally 10 m., by taking a slanting j^atli over the hill to the rt., striking on the other side the Invercroskie Water, and joining the Kirkmichael and Pit- lochrie road by Dirnanean. The distance is 6 or 7 m.] As the road to Blairgowrie recedes from the Spital, the tourist gets fine views of the southern face of Glasmeal and Uam Beg. 20 m. 1. Danaglar, a picturesque house in the baronial style, sheltered by Mt. Blair and a forest of pines. 21 m. at Cray (Mrs. Robertson) the scenery is very soft and lovely. [A road on 1. crosses the Shee, and runs to Glen Isla, over the shoulder of Mt. Blair, passing the square ruined castle of Porter. Distance to Glen Isla Inn 9 or 10 m. (Rte. 51a).] 23. m., leaving Glenkilrie on rt, and Dalrulzian House on I. [a road on rt. is given ofi" to Kirkmichael, aftbrding fine distant views W. of the Ben Vrackie and Ben-y-Gloe ranges. On the elevated moor of Balnahroch, which is to the 1. of this road, are some early remains, well 348 Pwute 52b. — Bridge of Ccdly. Sect. V worth visiting by the antiquary. They consist of clusters of circular walls, one of which, known as the "Grey Cairn," is 90 ft. round. In the neighbourhood are other circles of nearly equal dimensions, showing that the district was one of import- ance in pre-christian times. Calcined bones have also been found, together with gneiss and stone tools. By this road Kirkmichael is 5 m. distant, and Pitlochrie 17.] 25| m. Percie Inn, a roadside public-house. 29 m. Bndge of Cally. The Inn (Invercauld Arms) is finely situated at the junction of the Eardle with the Shee, the united streams taking the name of the Ericht. The view from the bridge is charming, looking up the Eardle, which is spanned also by the old bridge. [A road to Pitlochrie is given off here (18 m.), following up the Glen of Eardle for the whole of its course. It is a very pretty drive, although not remarkable for grandeur until within half-a-dozen miles of Pit- lochrie. Between Bridge of Cally and Kirkmichael are on 1. Cally (J. C. Constable, Esq.), Blackcraig, the fine baronial seat of P. A. Eraser, Esq., and one or two shoot- ing-lodges. 7 m. Kirkmichael (public-house) is a j)retty village on the 1. bank of the Eardle, but it w^ll not detain any but antiquaries, who can visit the early remains on Balnabroch from hence. To Pitlochrie keep straight alongside the river, passing rt. Invercroskie House and Dir- nanean (J. Small, Esq.), charmingly placed near the confluence of the Invercroskie with the Eardle. Here the track from the Spital of Glen- shee comes in. Farther on (1.) is Kindrogan (P. S. Keir, Esq.), and on rt. the fine Glen Fernate runs in. The road now enters Glen Brereclian, on the rt. of which the scenery is broken and fine, but the Blavelig Hills on the 1. are boggy and mono- tonous. At Clunskeid, 12 m., cross the Brerechan, below the shooting- lodge : [a footpath on rt. follows the river and turns up the Glen between Ben Vrackie and Ben Yuroch. It crosses the ridge and comes into the head of Glen Gurnaig, and emerges at Blair - Athole by the Fender Valley. From Clunskeid to Blair -Athole the distance is about 9 m.] The road to Pitlochrie ascends the hill, facing Ben Vrackie, which is remarkably broken and fine. Higher up on rt. Ben-y-Gloe, with its tre- mendous precipices, becomes the prominent feature. From the sum- mit of the hill above Pitlochrie there is a most superb view over the mountains of Perth and Inverness- shires, in which Schehallion and Ben Lawers are very conspicuous. The road then descends through ^Moulin to Pitlochrie, 18 m. (Rte. 48.)] From Bridge of Cally it is 6 m. to Blairgowrie, the road being carried along a terrace on the rt. bank of the Ericht, passing Strone Hoicse, in the angle formed by the confluence of the rivers, and on the opposite bank Glen Ericht. Not far from Blairgowrie the val- ley of the Ericht is very fine, and particularly at Craighall (Col. Clerk Rattray), where it flows in a narrow glen, between steep and precipitous rocks, at least 200 feet high, remind- ing one of Hawthornden or l^Iatlock. The peculiarities of this house and its position are so exactly copied by Scott in his description of Tully- veolan, that they were at once re- cognised by its owner. Oj)posite, but a little higher up than Craighall, Scotland. Pioute 52c. — Braemar to GlentilL 349 are some remains of a fortress known as Lady Lindsay's Castle. The road crosses the Ericht to the 1. bank, whei'e the Lorenty Burn flows in, forming a waterfall. It then passes near the village of Eattray, and pro- ceeds to 35 m. Blaircjotvrie Stat. {Inns : Koyal ; Queen's), a neat little town on the rt. bank of the Ericht, which sets in motion the wheels of several flax-spinning mills, employing many hands. To the S. of it are Blair- gowrie House (A. Macpherson, Esq.), and Altamont (Mrs. Ballingall). [Eaihuay, 5 m. to Ciqxtr-Angus on the Caledonian main line to Perth and Aberdeen, passing rt. the little Loch of Stormont, with its island and castle, and then crossing the Isla.] The road to Dunkeld, 12 m., is rather picturesque, skirting the N. bank of a chain of lakes formed by the Lunan. First come Loch Marlie and the village of Kinloch, which is succeeded by Loch Climie, on an island of which is the ruined Castle of Climie, said to be the birth-place of the Admirable Crichton. Be- tween this loch and the road is For- neth (W. Speid, Esq.). The road is conducted between Craig Bannock and Butterstone Ijoch, the series being finished with the Loch of the Lowes. 12 m. Dunkeld Stat. {Rte. 48). EOUTE 52c. Braemar to Blair-Athole, by Bainocti and Glentilt. A bridle road, 29 miles long, some- times resorted to as the only direct communication between Braemar and Blair-Athole. Of this distance, how- ever, about 10 m. at either end may be done by a conveyance. A pony may go the whole way "with a little care. Queen Victoria describes the route in her "Journal." There is no jilace of shelter or refreshment on the wa}^, so it should not be attempted except in fine weather. From Braemar to Avithin 1 m. of Bainoch Ijodge is 1 2 m. , good road. Bainoch to Forest Lodge, 9 m., bridle-way, path not well marked in places. Forest Lodge to Blair-Athole, 8 m., good road. The charge for a pony is 20s. ; for a guide 5s. Between Bainoch and Forest Lodge the rough path admits only of a foot-pace. It is quicker to walk than to ride. A carriage may be ordered from Blair-Athole to meet the party at Forest Lodge, but it must be remem- bered that as soon as the deer season begins, Glentilt is often closed for car- riages after 12 o'clock forenoon, so that in such a case the ponies must be taken on. The right of way was the subject of fierce dispute some years ago, but the glen is not now closed at any time for pedesti^ians or equestrians. After heavy rain this route should not be taken, for there is a bridgeless river, the Tarff", flow- ing into the Tilt, which can only be crossed by wading. In ordinary weather it is only a little above the knees, but when risen is strong and rapid enough to make it dangerous to ford. It is a great pity that the Duke of Athole does not rebuild the bridge over it. For the first 65 m., as far as the Linn of Dee, the road is the same as detailed in Ete. 52a. It then pursues the 1. bank of the Dee, which here flows through an open valley ; with small burns joining it from the hills. 94 m. the Dee is crossed by a wooden bridge, just where the road turns out of Glen Dee, which stretches away to the rt., up to the Wells of Dee (Rte. o2a). Braeriach, the Devil's Point, and Ben Muich-dhui are fine objects, towering over the hills in the fore- ground, rt. 350 Route 52c. — Braemar to Blair : GUntllt. Sect. Y. 11 m. The Geauly (or Geldy) has to be forded, the bridge being broken down. [The path to Kingnssie and Strathspey (the Queen'sroute), follows the 1. bank of the Geauly Water for some 7 ni. farther, when it crosses the watershed into Glenfishie, having on 1. Scarsoch and Cairn Eelar. On the other side the hill, cross the Endiart atits junction with the Fishie,and fol- low the rt. bank of the latter stream, passing Eea Leame. In about 6 m. farther the Fishie is crossed and the 1. bank followed. At6 m. from Kingussie a loop road is reached that nms on rt. to Pioat of Inch, and 1. to Kin- gussie, passing the outlet of Glen Troniie and Ruthven Barracks. The whole distance from Braemar to Kin- gussie will be about 38 m. (Rte. 48.)] After crossing the Geldy the road crosses the Bainoch, and reaches 12 ra. Bainoch Lodge (Earl of Fife), where it becomes a bridle-path. It turns nearly due S. across an open moor, and for a mile or two is not very distinctly marked. Behind is the whole of the Ben Muich-dhui range, while in front are the steep slopes and precipices of Ben-y-Gloe. The Tilt rises in a small tarn, on the right, and flows through a glen "so narrow as seldom to give room for more than the river, while in many places its channel is but a ravine through the solid rocks. This valley is dis- tinguished by its extreme depth and narrowness, and by the wildness of its upper extremity. The ornamented beauty is confined to that part which approaches to Blair. " The peculiar- ity of the glen is its extreme straight- ness, which makes it appear in some parts almost like a gigantic canal- cutting, and the uniform steepness of the hills on either side ; in fact, there are not in the whole of its course half- a-dozen places where it is possible to get out of it, except by very ardu- ous and often dangerous climbing. 16 m. The Tar/f flows in from the W. in a fine fall, hemmed in by precipitous clift's. The bridge over it was washed away many years ago, and the Duke of Athole does not wish- to rebuild it. In dry weather the water is not more than 2 or 3 feet deep, but is subject to considerable rise after rain. The tourist must get across as he can, the best plan being to relinquish one's nether gar- ments and walk through ; but it must be confessed that the stones are too large and slippery to make it a matter of much pleasure. There is a corresponding gap on the other side of the Tilt, up which a steep path leads to Falar, a shooting-lodge of the Duke of Athole's. The ford is called the Pil Tarff. Between the Tarff" and Forest Lodge is a cairn commemorating the place where the Queen lunched in her excursion from Blair-Athole. 21 m. Forest Lodge is the prin- cipal hunting-station of the Duke in the glen, or indeed in the whole of his extensive Forest of Athole, which embraces more than 100,000 acres, and is computed to contain upwards of 15,000 head of red deer. 3000 deer were driven at once in sight of the Prince and Princess of Wales in Sept. 1872. Ever5i;hing in the district is subordinate to the breeding of deer, with which sheep pasturing interferes, in order that the herds might have the repose deemed so essential. Glentilt, however, was once inhabited by the clan of M'Intosh, from whom it was purchased by the Earl of Athole in 1532. The glen is bounded on the E. mainly by the heights of Ben-y-Gloe, "Moitntains of the jMist," the most lofty point of which is Cairngowar, 3750 ft. The view from the summit is a good deal interrupted b}^ neigh- bouring mountains. From Forest Lodge there is a good carriage road. At a picturesque bridge over the Tilt observe the pink hue of the granite in the river bed. Near Scotland. Route 53. — Aberdeen to Peterhead. 351 this marble occurs. The glen, in the lower i^art of its course, is largely ornamfMited with woods, while the river offers at every turn delicious combinations of rock and water. There are some picturesque falls about 2 m. from Blair-Athole, a little after the notice board \o pedestrians and riders to take the hill road, with a view of disturbing th« deer as little as possible. At 28 m. the Fender joins the Tilt in a series of pretty cascades ; the upper one is the finest. Below the old bridge of Tilt is a path, whence is visible the York Fall, formed by a small tributary stream. The geologist will find Glentilt very interesting on account of the limestones which are associated with the Lower Silurian quartz rocks. Quarries of beautiful marble have been opened in it. M'Culloch calls attention to its min-erals, particularly those of Sahlite (or silicate of Mag- nesia) and Tremolite. It was under the first bridge beyond the enclosure that Sir James Hall first observed the phenomenon of granite veins, that proved the commencement of a most important era in geology. The botanist will find in the glen and the mountains round, Cornus suecica, Rubus arcticus, Azalea procumbens (Ben-y-Gloe), Lichen nivalis, L. Islandicus, Satyriuni viride, S. hirci- num, Saxifraga oi3positifolia, Silene acaulis, Pyrola secunda, Convallaria verticillata, etc. 29 m. Blair-Athole (Rte. 48), EOUTE 53. Aberdeen to Fraserburgh, and Peterhead. The rly. to Peterhead 44| m.— to Fraserburgh 47^— is the Inverness line as far as Dyce Juxctiox — and passes through a very characteristic portion of the county. The country is in a high state of cultivation, proving the skill and perseverance of the farmers. If m. Kittyhreioster Stat., to the rt. of which is a good view of Old Aberdeen, with its two-towered ca- thedral and the lantern summit of King's College. The ch. on the brow of the hill to the left is that of ]S"ewhills. The vale of the Don is the scene of active industry — paper mills (Pirie's), and M'oollen mills, granite quarries, etc., occur in suc- cession. 4 J m. Buxhurn Stat, to rt. of which, on other side of the Don, is Grand- holme House (C-ol. Paton), Ql m. Dyce Junct. Stat. Here the line divides ; to the 1. proceeding to Banff and Inverness (Ete. 55), and on rt. crossing the Don to Peterhead. 1\ m. The village of Dyce is to the 1. of Parkhill Stat. The ch.-yard contains some sculptured stones, and on rt. is Parkhill House (J. Gordon- Cumming-Skene, Esq.) llf m. Xew Machar, to 1. of which is Elriek (P. Burnett, Esq.) 141 m. Uclny Stat. The tower of Udny, 1., 2| m., belongs to a family of the same name, and is a curiously- gaunt, bare building of 4 storeys, surmounted by corner-turrets, under- neath which is a fantastic mould- ing. The two lower storeys have handsomely groined ceilings, one being entirely occupied by the hall, unadorned, but finely jjroportioned. It has been fitted up and reoccupied by the proprietor, J. H. Udny, Esq. 16 J m. Logierieve Stat., 4 m. 1. of which is Tolquhoun Castle (Earl of Aberdeen), a strong squat build- ing of the quasi-baronial order, dis- figured by a quantity of grotesque statuary upon the exterior. An inscription over the entrance says — 352 Boute 53. — Aberdeen to Fraserburgh. Sect. V. "All tliis warke, except the auld tower, was begun by William Forbes, 15th Aprile, 1581, and endit by Mm, 20th Oct. 1589." 18 m, Esslcmont Stat. 20 m. Ellon Stat. (Xew Inn), at which point the line crosses the Ythan, a considerable stream which rises near Turritf and drains a large portion of the district of Buchan, It is celebrated for its mussel pearls [Mija marqaritifera), and one of the jewels of the ancient crown of Scotland is said to have been found here. Near the little town of Ellon, which stands on rt. of rly. IJ m., is Ellon House, modern, in beautiful grounds, adjoining an old Castle (A. Gordon, Esq.) 4 m. 1. is Haddow House (Earl of Aberdeen), a plain modern mansion. Near it are the ruins of the old house of Gight, of which Byron's mother (a Gordon) was heiress. 23 m. Arnage Stat. , and on rt. Ar- nage Castle (J. Eoss, Esq.) The countrj^ is now fairly adorned with wood, though not of sufficient age to be thought ornamental, except in large masses. Dr. Johnson said that when he had reached this point he had only seen 2 trees older than himself in all Scotland. 27 m. Auchnagatt Stat. 32 m. New Maud Junct. Stat. [The branch line to Fraserburgh continues due N., passing 33 m. Brucklay Stat., and 37 m. Stricken Stat., picturesquely situated at the foot of the Mormond Hill, 810 ft., on which there is the outline of a white horse. Passing Lonmay and Rathen Stats, the train arrives at 47im. Fraserburgh Stat., a borough or barony, of which Lord Saltoun is superior. It is a town of consider- able consequence in the herring- fishery, and its harbour, though naturally a very difficult one, has been much improved by works (from designs by Telford) which cost nearly £50,000. There are in the town the ruins of 2 chapels, Avhich once belonged to the Alabey of Deer. There is also a tower 3 storeys high, built in 1592, and intended to serve the purpose of a college, but never finished. A second tower on Kinnaird Head, to the W. of Fraserburgh, was used as a wine-cellar. In the town is a handsome cross 12 ft. high, standing upon a pedestal, and surmounted by the royal arms and those of Lord Saltoun, whose seat, Philorth, lies about 1^ m. to the S., in the midst of a wooded demesne, contrasting with the bare country around. Cairnhulg Castle, on the Philorth Water, was a fort of the Comyns, and foj-feited in 1306. It then passed to the Erasers.] Quitting New Maud 'Junct., the first station on the rly. to Peterhead is 35^ m. Mintlaw Stat, the village of Old Deer on the rt. This place once possessed an Ahhey, and its remains can be seen from the rly. It Avas founded about 1200 by Comyn, Earl of Buchan, for monks of the Cistercian order. In the Ejnscopal Ch. have been interred the remains of John Graham of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee, the hero of Killie- crankie, removed hither from Blair- Athole. On 1. is Pitfour (Col. Fer- guson), where a monument has been set up to William Pitt and Henry Dundas, Lord Melville. At 39 m. Longside Stat., the line crosses the Deer Water, which, together with its tributary the Strichen Water, falls into the sea at Inverugie. 41 m. New Seat Stat. On 1. is Heading Hill, where th Scotland. Route b^. — Peterhead ; Bulhrs of Buchan. 353 executions took place in the days, and by order, of the Keiths, Earls Marischal. 42 1 m., near Inverugie Stat., is Li- verugie Castle, the ruined residence of the Keiths, Earls Marischal of Scotland, till the year 1715, when, •in consequence of their rebellion, the property was forfeited. The brother of the last earl became a field -marshal in the Prussian service. The castle had a splendid hall 50 ft. long, lighted by 4 deeply embayed windows. 444 m. Peterhead, {Inn : Laing's Temperance). A Pari. Burgh (Pop. 8535) and busy seaport, chief town of Buchan, principally dependent on the whale-fishery, which has long been a nursery for tlie bravest and best seamen. The town was founded b}'- the Keiths, to the memory of whom a cross of granite was erected in 1832. The Statue of Marshal Keith, in front of the Tolbooth, in High St., was the gift of the King of Prussia, to the Marshal's native town (1869). Banished from Britain as a supporter of the Stuarts, he became one of the best generals of Frederick the Great. The place now belongs to the Merchant Com- pany, Edinburgh. A large quan- tity of granite is annually ex- ported from Peterhead, the neigh- bouring bay affording an inexhaust- ible supply of beautiful flesh-coloured stone. The harbour is much ex- posed to tremendous sea storms, which have repeatedly swept away piers and breakwaters. It was re- modelled in 1822 from designs by Telford, and now furnishes partial refuge for vessels caught on this stormy coast. The Arbuthnott mu- seum should be seen. The Pretender landed here in disguise in 1716. [The Baij of Peterhead is bounded (about 3 m. to the S. ) by the promontory of Bachan- ness — near which are the ruins of Boddom Castle, built in the 14th {Scotland. '[ centy. by the Keiths, upon the extreme end of a high rocky pro- montory. 6 m. from Peterhead, to the S. (passing rt. and 1. large granite quarries), are the ^i«Z/crs (Boilers) of Buchan. It is a tremendous deep hollow or crater in the rock, 200 ft. deep and 50 ft. wide, into which the waves flow through a natural arch- way at the bottom. In rough weather, and in a high wind, the waves rush in with incredible violence, often dashing over the enclosing rocks. It is a fine sight, and has the advantage of being accessible to view from the land as well as by sea. Dr. Johnson calls it "a rock perpendicularly tubulated." " He walked round this monstrous cauldron. In some places the rock is very narrow, and on each side there is a sea deep enough for a man-of-war to ride in, so that it is somewhat horrid to move along." — Bosvjell. Sir W. Scott adds, "The path is 3 feet wide, so there is no danger, though often much fear." Johnson insisted on being rowed into the Pot. He also describes the Duubuxj or Yellow Pvock, as "a yel- low protuberance of stone, open to the main sea on one side, and parted from the land by a very narrow chan- nel on the other, covered with sea- birds. " \ m. S. of the Bullers is an arched rock in a headland. 8. m (S. of Peterhead) is Slaines neiv castle, the seat of the Earl of Errol, finely situated on the very verge of the precipice, above the sea, in a position which Dr. Johnson de- clared to be "the noblest he had ever seen," 1773. The house con- tains portraits by Sir Jos. Beynolds. The severe character of the climate, however, prevents the growth of any trees whatever. 14 m. are the ruins of Slaines old castki The old castle was destroy- ed by James VI. in 1594. Lord Q 2 354 Route 54. — Aberdeen to Alford. Sect. Y. EiTol had joined Lord Hnntly, wlio had committed tlie barbarous mur- der of the "Bonnie Earl of Moray." The Earl of Argyle was ordered to march against them, but he Avas de- feated in Glenlivat, so that James was compelled to take the field in person. At Forvie, a few miles below Slaines, are a large number of shell- mounds, some of which have been opened and found to contain hearth- stones, charcoal, and bones of the ox and deer. On the opposite side of the Ugie, and partly protected by it, is Pmvchs- craig Castle, a most interesting old fort. It belongs to the 12th centy., and is in antiquity next to Braal Fort on the Thurso. Eavenscraig was probably built by the Cheyues, a fandly which subsequently became merged in the Keiths. EOUTE 54. Aberdeen to Alford and Strath- don, by Kintore. A good way of seeing this valley is to take the rail to Alford, where a conveyance may be had, then drive to Colquhonuy ; walk on to Skellater and Corgarff, return to Cohjuhonnj" to sleep, and next day drive to Gartly Stat, on the G. N. S. line. Quitting TviNTORE Junct. and passing 1. Hallforest Castle (Rte. 55), the line reaches the Don at 18 m. Kriiinatj Stat., to the L of which is Kemnay House (A. Burnett, Esq.) From the rly. bridge at the stat. a good view is obtained of Fettcrnear (trustees of Col. Leslie of Balquhain), beautifully situ- ated on the IST. bank of the Don. It was once the country seat of the Bishops of Aberdeen, and was made over to William Leslie, the 9tli Baron of Balquhain, by Bishop Gordon in 1566, for the service performed by him in saving Aberdeen cathedral from destruction. At Kemnay are extensive Qua7'- ries of a nearly white granite, em- ploying 300 men ; it was used for the Thames Embankment. The modern Gothic Ch. here is of native granite. [2 m. to the S. is Castle Fraser (Col. Fraser), which was anciently known by the name of Muchalls, and passed into the Fraser /amily in the year 1532. Its main feature is a square tower of the 16th centy., the lower part of which is of con- siderable age, and lias been topped with the ornamental turrets and conical roofs of the early part of the 17th centy., the time when the tur- reted style had reached its highest development in Scotland. At that time a round tower was added, and from the angle Avhere this joins the square mass, there springs a light turret surmounted by an airy-looking pavilion-shaped roof. A broad and handsome moulding runs round the building, which gives the upper part a peculiarly rich and pleasing efiect, especially as it is contrasted by the singular plainness and almost studied absence of ornament of the lower storeys. Internally the hall is worth notice from its elaborate ceiling. 21 m. Monymusk Stat. The vil- lage (rt.), which is of considerable antiquity, is neatly built, and is in the form of a square, Avith some fine old trees in the centre. Malcolm Canmore is said, in the 11th centy., to have founded a prior}" on the spot. It is probable that the tower of the present ch., though not of this age, did at one time belong to a priory subsequently founded here by Bruce, who, on his way to the battle of Inverurie, bivouacked in a meadow called the "Camp Field." Monymusk House (Sir A. Grant) Aberdeen. Route 54. — AJford; Craigkvar. 355 is beautifully situated on tlie banks of the Don. The principal toAver is of some age, but modern additions have been made to it. The grounds are well wooded, and in a part called Paradise are some of the finest pines and larches in Scotland. The jMrish Ch. has an old tower, of architecture resembling Norman. The chan- cel and nave, probably of the same date, are so much mutilated by repairs that no trace of style is visible. The original doors and win- dows are abolished. The Mony- musk Stone has a well-carved cross upon it, and is supposed to have been at some time a landmark on the Prioiy property. Higher up the Don are the ruins of PitjicMe Castle, once the property of General Urry, hanged in 1650 at ]\Iontrose. He began as a Royalist, and then joined the Covenanters, whom he deserted after their defeat at Auldearn. To the X. is a ridge of hill, of which the most prominent feature is Bennachie (1440 ft.), which overlooks the battlefield of Harlaw (Ptte. 55). On the 1. of the stat. is Cluny Cctstic (John Gordon, Esq.), and the ruined castle of Tilly- cairn. Cluny is an imposing struc- ture, built in 1836, but its large sash windows and other modern appliances harmonise but poorly with the pretentious exterior of a Norman fortress. 24 m. Tillyfourie Stat., to 1. of which are Correnny Hill and quarries. 28^ m. Wliitehouse, to the N. of which (2 m.) is Castle Forbes, the seat of Lord Forbes, a modern house, finely situated estate of 13,621 acres. 29^ m. The terminus of the line is reached at. Alforcl Stat. {Inn: Haughton Arms, comfortable ; good fishing quarters), a pleasant little village, near which Montrose defeated the Covenanters under Colonel Baillie in 1645. A cattle-market is held here once a month, when a large quantity of Aberdeen stock changes hands. There are also some granite qiutrries in the hills, or " howes," as they are locally called, between this and Strathdon. They yield a dark- coloured or blue granite. Just be- yond is Haughton House (R. 0. Farquharson, Esq.), estate 4500 ac. [An Excursion may be taken from Alford, crossing the bridge, and at the next toll-bar taking road to rt. Dalpersie or Terpersie Castle, a small fortified house consisting of a quadrilateral building -v^ith a round tower (internally octagonal) at the diagonal corners. There are but three storeys, with one room in each. On one of the A^indow sills is the date 1561, also the crest of the Gordons, a boar's head, beautifully cut. The road on 1. at the cross roads leads to * Craigievar Castle (Sir W. Forbes). The estate belonged to the Mortimers, and was purchased by the Forbes in 1610. The build- ing consists of three towers seven storeys high, sunnounted by turrets, high pitched roofs, dormer "uindows, and mouldings and sculpture. " Its uses as a fortress against the High- land reivers, rather than a dwelling- house, are recalled by all its attri- butes of sullen strength, and not less startlingly by the admonition round the shield, by which the ad- venturous intruder is warned against the temerity of waking sleeping dogs." The most interesting portion of the castle is the hall, which has a magnificent ceiling with pendants and wall decorations. The house is kept up in the original style, but sel- dom occupied by the family. There is a roadside public-house at Muggert- haugh. 2 m. beyond Craigievar are the ruins of Corse Castle and Corse House (J. 0. Forbes, Esq.) The old castle was built in 1581, and belonged 356 Route 54. — Alford; Kildrummie. Sect. V. at the beginning of the 17th centy. to Patrick Forbes, Bishop of Aber- deen, who was greatly respected for his learning and goodness. It is said that the devil paid him a visit here, and being worsted in an argument, went away in a rage, carrying with him the whole front of the house. The smaller road on rt. (from the cross roads) leads to Cushuie (Mrs. Lumsden), passing Hallhead (H. W. Gordon, Esq.), and on to Tarland, and by the ruins of Coul Castle to Charleston of Aboyne. A t the corner of the Hill of Coul, at a j)lace called the Stack of Tilly Lodge, there is a magnificent view. On a rocky emi- nence near the ch. are the remains of the old Castle of Coul, a fortitica- tion of square form, with hexagonal towers at the corners. It belonged to the Durwards, a family of con- siderable note in the time of Alex- ander II., and it is said that the ch. bell still rings of its own accord whenever one of the name dies]. Distances. From Alford to Kin- tore, 16 m. ; Hmitly, 20 : Craigievar, 4 ; Kildrummie, 10 ; Corse Castle, 6. A good road runs along the N. side of the Don, joining that through Strathbogie. Beyond the river is Breda House, with its burial-place, and farther on are the woods of Briix, once the pro- perty of the Camerons. They being at feud with the ]\Iowatts of Aber- geldie, it was agreed that 12 horse- men on either side should meet and draw up articles of peace. The Camerons came to the place of ren- dezvous according to agreement. The Mowatts brought 12 horses, but 2 men on each, who immediately fell on the Camerons and slew them. The property devolved on an only daughter, who was then, or subse- quently, wooed by a cadet of the house of Forbes. She declared her intention of marrying none save the avenger of her father's murder. Whereupon young Forbes challenged Mowatt and killed him in single combat, married the heiress, and established the family of Forbes of Brux. The last of his line, Jonathan Forbes, was proscribed in 1715, but concealed himself in the neighbour- hood by working as a labourer. A dyke built by his own hands may be seen running up the hill from the opposite bank. The road, leaving on rt. Littlewood House, now enters a beautiful pass, having the softly wooded hills of Callivar and Coreen Hill on the opposite side of the river. It then crosses the Mossie Burn — " From Esset to Mosset, From Bogie to Don," extended the original territory of the Forbes family. At the toll-bar the road divides, that on the rt. going to Lumsden, Hill of Koth and Huntly (Rte. 54), and on 1. to 10 m. Kildrummie Inn, fair. Here is the old burial-place of Kil- drummie, with its Norman wall and a vault containing monuments of the Elphinstone family and the Earls of ]\Iar. Beyond is the conical hill of Drumgoivdrum, in a glen behind which took place the massacre of the Camerons by the Mowatts. Kildrummie Castle was a roj^al fortress in the days of Eobert Bruce. His Avife and children were placed here for safety, but the castle being besieged by the Earls of Lancaster and Hereford, they fled to St. Du- thus's sanctuary at Tain, where they were taken by the Earl of Ross, and given up to Edward I. Kildrummie was betrayed into the hands of the English, and as for the garrison, the chronicler relates concisely , " thai wer.all hangyt and drawyn." The castle is the most picturesque object in the whole of Strathdon. It is said to have been built in the reign of Alexander II. by Gilbert, Bishop of Caithness, and to have had 7 towers. It stands on a rock overhanging a ScoTLAiJD, Route 54. — Castles Toivie, Glenbucket, and Newe. 357 ravine, and consists of a square court with round towers at the angles. The material employed is freestone, which must have been brought from some distance, as the stone of the country is granite. The chapel with its 3-light window, in imitation apparently of Elgin, is very conspicuous among the remains. " Kildrummie may be pronounced the only castle in Scotland of which a chapel forms a conspicuous fea- ture. " Of the Snow TovN'er towards the W., which is said to have been 150 ft. high, there is but little trace. The road now enters the Den of Kildrummie, a narrow picturesque pass, with steep wooded sides. At the end of this Morven appears in the distance, and Towie in the valley. 8 m. Euins of Towie Castle, of which the insignificant square keep is left. In 1571 it belonged to Alexander Forbes, and in his ab- sence was besieged by Adam Gor- don, brother of the Earl of Huntly. On Forbes's wife refusing to sur- render, Gordon set fire to the tower, and burnt herself, her children, and servants, 27 in all. Upon this tragic incident is founded the ballad of " Edom o' Gordon," though the scene is there transferred to Eodes in Berwickshire : " But when the lady saw the fire Come flaming over her head, She wept and kissed her children twain, Saj'ing, ' Bairns, we be but dead. ' " In the ch. -yard is an old gravestone with a sculptured cross. It has 8 branches with trefoiled ends, and a gilt chalice, probably implying that it covered the body of a priest. Pass rt. Glenkindie (A. I^eith, Esq.), and just before the next toll- bar in the second field from the road- is a very remarkable Picfs House. It has two chambers, communicating with each other by means of a small aperture, 3 ft. from the ground of •the outer chamber, but on the floor level of the inner. 10 m. the Glenbucket river is crossed [and a road is given off to the E". up the glen, passing under the Buck of Cabrach, 2377. It ultimately divides ; one branch down the valley of the Deveron to Huntly, and another through Glen Fiddick to Dufl'town. About 1 m. up this road are the ruins of Glenbucket Castle, built in 1590 (Lord Fife). An inscription on the walls tells the visitor that "n (ought) is left but famine" — al- though there is not even much of that about the place, as its history has been lost. The proprietor took the part of the Stuarts in 1715 and in 1745. Moivatfs Stone, 4 m. up the burn, marks the spot where the duel between Mowatt and young Forbes took place, which ended in the death of Mowatt. An old-fashioned dirk found near the place is now in the Banff museum.] Continuing up Strathdon, on rt. is Ben Newe (the Holy Hill), and at the farm of Buchan there is another Picfs House in the garden. (Inquire at the house for the key and a candle.) It has one chamber, and winds considerably. It was only discovered a few years ago, though a tradition of its existence was acknowledged — an old "quoich" or drinking-cup and some wood ashes were found at tjie farther end. The Don is now crossed — the road on rt. lead- ing to Neive Castle (Sir C. Forbes), a good view of which is obtained on the opposite side of the river. 15. m is Colquhonny Inn (good), standing 1100 ft. above the sea, and adjoining it are the ruins of Colquhonny Castle, begun by one of the family of Forbes of Towie, but never finished ; for it is said that three of the lairds fell from the top and were killed, a disaster so ominous that the works were discon- tinued. 358 Route 55. — Aberdeen to Inverness: Kintore. Sect. Y. [From Colqiihonny to Gartly Stat. is 21 m.] 16 m. on 1. a group of trees on the opposite bank marks the site of the old house of Colquhonny ; and above it is to be seen the Hill of Lanach, with a cairn on the top erected to commemorate the acqui- sition of a baronetcy by the father of Sir C, Forbes of Newe. In the valley, near the water's edge, stands Bellabeg — the original property and habitation of the family, Near the confluence of the Nochty is the Dune of Invernochty, an elliptical mound 40 ft. high, and 970 ft. in circumference at the base. Around the top may still be traced the foun- dations of walls, and at the bottom there was a moat. It is probably a natural eminence (perhaps an ex- ample of drift) adapted to the pur- poses of a fort. The Brichjc of Pol- dullie over the Don was built in 1715, by Black Jock Forbes of Inverernan, as testified by the insoiption. As- cending the hill beyond, a good view is obtained of Morven on the left, and Ben Newe behind. Opposite Candacraig is Glen Conry, where the Earls of Mar are said to have kept their hounds. Lonach Hill is in front. 17 m. At the confluence of the Ernan are Inverernan (Gen. Forbes), and Forbes Lodge. At 18 m. Lonach there is a de- cent little Inn. The road bejond passes through a beautiful bit of scenery, rounding the base of Lonach, while the hills on the opposite side, clothed with birch and firs, close in like an amphitheatre. Beyond this Pass the road rises rapidly, and at the top of the first hill is Skellater House, after which the country be- comes bare. At the head of the Strath the high road from Ballater to Toraantoul runs northward. To Ballater, 1 3 m. ; Tomantoul, 83 m. At the point of junction is the ruined Castle of Corgarff, supposed to have been built by one of the Earls of Mar for a Imnting-seat. It was sub- sequently purchased by Government, and kept up as a small military station for the repression of smug- gling. Near it is Allargue House (Ts. of the late R. Farquharson Esq.). A bridle-road continues , westward, passing very near to the source of the Don, and crossing the great backbone of Avon Forest ; it then descends Glen Avon, and at the Bridge of Bruan falls into the Tomantoul and Cromdale road. ROUTE 55. Aberdeen to Inverness, by Huntly, Keith, Elgin, Forres, and Nairn, Great North of Scotland Railway. 108 J- m., 4 trains daily, and those very slow (time occupied, 6 hours). The tourist who cares for ecclesiastical architecture should stop at Elgin to visit the ruins of the cathedral, and those of Pluscardine Abbey. For the country between Aberdeen and 74 m- Dyce Junction, see Ete. 53. From thence the line keeps the S. side of the Don to lOf m. Kinaldie Stat., where a bridge crosses the Don to Fintray village and House (Sir W. Forbes). 13| m. Kintore Junct. Stat. The town of Kintore (on 1.) is a Pvoyal and Pari. Burgh. Pop. 659. About 1^ m. distant are the ruins of Hallforest Castle, an old building, said to have been a hunting-lodge of the Earls of Mar before Bruce's time. It has only two storeys, with vaulted roofs, and each of these could be divided by a temporary floor into two rooms. But there are no traces of staircase, which must have been at the. outside. The castle was granted to Scotland. Eoute 55. — Inveramsay ; Balquhain. 359 Keith, Earl Marisclial, for services at Bannockburn. It was inhabited as late as 1639, and the present family take the title of Kintore from the property. At this junction the Alford Valley Line is given oif. The main line passes 1. Thainston (D. Forbes-Mit- chell, Esq.) Rt. of the line is seen Keith Hall (the seat of Lord Kintore), formerly called Caskieben, and once the property of the Johnstones. The Scottish Latin poet, Arthur John- stone, was born here in 1587. It is an estate of 17,000 acres. The rly. now crosses the Don and arrives at 16 5 m. Inverurie Stat. [Inn : Kin- tore Arms ; fishing). It is a neat small town, with 3 churches and several modern villas, a Pari. Burgh (Pop. 2856), on the banks of the river Urie. Inverurie is said to have re- ceived the privileges of a royal burgh from Robert Bruce, in commemora- tion of a victory gained near here over Comyn, the adherent of Edward I. Rt. of the rly., at the S. end of the town, is a mound, partly artificial, called the Bass, supposed to have been the seat of justice, or a hillock to mark the gi'ave of a Pictish king. Concerning this mound, which is in reality an example of drift, there is a local prophecy : — " When Dee and Don run both in one, And Tweed shall rim in Tay, The bonnie water of Urie Shall bear the Basse away." [A branch of 5 m. is given off rt. to Old Meldrum, Ij^ng on the high road from Aberdeen to Banff". To the S. of the town is Barra (Col. Ramsay), on the hill above which is a fort, marking the locality of the battle between Robert I. and the English army under Comyn, Earl of Buchan. To the N". of the town is Meldrum House (B. C. Urquhart, Esq.)] Crossing the Frie river the line reaches 21 m. Inveramsay Junction, having on rt. Harlaw^ where was fought the bloody battle, in 1411, between the Earl of j\lar and Donald of the Isles, who had invaded Scot- land and burnt Inverness to make good his claim to the earldom of Here a Railway branches to Banff (Rte. 55a.) The Garioch is the name of the district, celebrated from its fertility as the " gimel " or meal-j)ress of Aberdeenshire. On the 1. side of the rly. and 1. m. from Harlaw, are the ruins of Bal- quhain, a ruined tower belonging to the old family of Leslie of Balquhain. Here Sir William Leslie had the honour of entertaining Queen Mary for two da3^s during her progress in the north, 1562. It is stated that the Duke of Cumberland, on his way to CuUoden in 1746, ordered the castle to be burnt, and there is a local tradition that one of the tenants averted the calamity by filling his bonnet full of silver pieces and off"er- ing them to the soldiery ; the bribe was accepted, and the vaults filled with damp straw, which produced such a dense smoke that the duke was satisfied that his orders had been executed. Several illustrious mem- bers of the family of Leslie were bom at Balquhain, and amongst others Walter, Count Leslie, who served with distinction in the Austrian army, and was created a Count of the Holy Roman Empire ; also James, who succeeded him in his German estates, and was second in command at the siege of Vienna. On the hills behind the castle are some tumuli. 1 m. from Balquhain is the village of Chapel of Garioch, and 1 m. be- yond that is the Maiden Stone, about 10 ft. high, and ornamented on all four sides. On the E. side are three compartments — in the lowest, a comb and mirror — common emblems on Scotch sculptured stones — in the middle, an animal like an elephant, and in the upper one, a dog. It is 360 Route 55. — Pitcapk; Huntly. Sect. V. probably an early Cliristian monu- ment. Quitting Inveramsat Junct. the main line reaches 2U m. Pitca'ple Stat. {Inn), to rt. of which is Pitcaple Castle (H. Lums- den, Esq.) and Logie (Sir James Elphinstone), and on 1, Pittodrie (Mrs. Knight Erskine). Pitcaple was formeiiy a seat of the Leslie family, and in 1640 the Earl of Montrose, on his way south as a prisoner, was allowed to rest here for a night, the lady of the house being his cousin. Hartliill Castle ruins (on rt. ). This fortress was built in 1638 by Patrick Leith, and burnt soon after by the Covenanters. 24^ m. Oyne Stat, (pronounced een. ) " To the S. is the beautiful ridge of Bennachie, mentioned as the place looking down on the battlefield of Harlaw. The traveller will call to mind the fine ballad in the "Antiquary :" — " The Coronach's cried on Bennachie, And down the Don and a' ; And hieland and lawland may mournfu' be For the saix field of Harlaw." From the summit (1440 ft.), which is characterised by a number of gran- ite peaks, is a charming view of the valleys of the Don and the Urie. In ancient charters it is called the " Eoyal Forest of Bennachie." On rt. a road leads to Wcsthall (Lady Leith), the old seat of the Horns ; another on 1. leads to the Gaudie river, on rt. bank of which is Likelyheacl, a seat of the Forbes in 1629. 2 m. farther up the stream is Leslie Castle, one of the most con- venient of these ancient structures. This also was built by the Forbes in 1661, and consists of three towers joined together and turreted. 28 m. Iiiscli Stat., lying at the foot of the conical hill of Dun o' Deer, with an old fort on the summit, of the date of the 14th cent v. Hector Boece says " that the sheep that gangs on this mountain are yellow, their teeth hewit like gold." "On the 1, is the hill of Christ's Kirk, a suppressed parish, where a fair, called 'iThe Sleepy Market,' was at one time held during the night. It has been supposed that it is the scene of the old poem of ' Christ's Kirk on the Green,' ascribed to King James I." — Oliver. Conspicuous on the K. are the Foudland Hills, on the old coach- road to Huntly, which, although of no great height, were in "^dnter the terror of travellers on account of the 31 m. Wardhouse Stat, and House (C. P. Gordon, Esq.). 33 m. At Kennethmont Stat., to the rt. of which is Leith Hall (Colonel Leith-Hay), the line enters the valley of Strathbogie, and the country be- comes more wild and hilly. Looking S.W. the traveller sees the peaks of the Buck of Cabrach, between Strath- bogie and Strathdon ; while to the W., near at hand, is the conical sum- mit of the Taj) of Noth (1830 ft.), a conspicuous landmark from the Ger- man Ocean. The archaeologist should visit it for its vitrified fort, which is very perfect, enclosing a large area by a rampart some 15 ft. high, with a single opening at the S. E. corner. From the extent of the outworks it is plain that the fort must have been one of the greatest importance. 36 m. Gartly Stat. There is a good road up to Strathdon. It is 21 m. to Colquhonny Inn (Rte. 54). ilvix. Huntly Stat. {Inns: Gordon Arms, Strathbogie Arms). The town stands at the head of Strath- bogie, at the confluence of the Bogie with the Deveron, and consists prin- cipally of 2 streets that cross one another at rt. angles, forming a spacious market-place, in which is a SCOTU-ND. Pioute 55. — HuntJy ; Keith; Fochahers. 3C1 statue of the 5th Duke of Eichmond. Hard by are the ruins of Huntly, or Strathhogie Castle, as it was called till the year 1544, cradle and seat of the Earls of Huntly, the most powerful chieftains in the N". down to the 16th centy. An old fortress here belonged in early times to the Comyns, but very little is left but the vaults. It was granted, along with the barony, by Robert Bruce to Sir Adam Gordon, founder of the family, whose head, in the time of Queen IMary, held three earldoms, and ruled more like a monarch than a subject from Deeside to the \Y. Ocean. It was dismantled by James VI. in 1594, on account of the rebellion of the first Marquis of Huntly and his murder of the Earl of j\loray. It was rebuilt by Patrick, E. of Strath- more 1696. At the end of the last centy. it ceased to be inhabited, and much of the material has been used for the building of Kunthj Lodge, occupied by the late Duchess of Gor- don, the gardens of which are very pretty, and are open on Wednesdays. The visitor should notice the Gordon schools, erected in 1851 to the mem- ory of the fifth and last duke. The Deveron is crossed by a bridge of 5 arches near. 45^ m. Rothiemay Stat. The line now approaches the boundary be- tween the counties of Aberdeen and Banff, and crosses it at Grange Junct. Stat., where the line to Banlf (Rte. 55b) branches N. E. under Knock Hill. 53^ Keith Junct. Stat. {Inn : Gor- don Arms). Keith consists of a group of 4 small towns on the Isla, the chief of them of modern origin, consisting of 5 straight streets crossed by others at right angles. It has 4 great cattle and horse fairs in the year. The Roman Catholic Clmiiel is elaborately ornamented, and con- tains an altarpiece, the Incredulity \8cotland.\ of St. Thomas, presented by Charles X., King of France. The trains of Gt. X. of Scotland Rly. go round from Keith to Craig- ellachie, and thence up the Spey to Boat of Garten, on Highland line. Quitting Kcitli, the main line skirts the boundary of Banflf and Moray shires, to 58^ m. Mulhen Stat., and passes through a prettily wooded defile to the valley of the Spey, which is crossed not only by the rly. Viaduct of 6 arches 2-30 ft.'long, but also by a suspension bridge, which has super- seded the old ferry, from which the place is still called the "'Boat o' Brig." The geologist will notice the sections of Avealden-clay and drift on the banks of the Spey, which may be traced down below Fochabers. 62. OiiTOX Stat. Passing rt. Orton, the seat of A. T. ^Miarton-Duff", Esq., and travers- ing for 3 m. the woods of the Duke of Richmond, the line reaches 65 m. Fochabers Stat., the town, which is visible from the railway, being about 3.^ m. to the rt, on the opposite bank of the Spey, here crossed by a fine bridge. (Inn : Gor- don Arms. ) It is a neat little place, built upon a regular plan, with a handsome square in the centre. At the E. end is an Educational Institu- tion, founded by Alexander ]\lilne, a native of Fochabers, who made a large fortune as a merchant at N^ew Orleans. Close to the town is the entrance to Gordon C'aiT^Zg (Duke of Eichmond), 1 J m. distant, standing in a spacious park of 1300 acres, which was form- erly a marsh, called the Bog of Gight, but is now well covered with trees. The Castle — the seat of the Dukes of Gordon till their title be- came extinct, and their property R 362 Eoute 55. — Gordon Castle; Elgin Ctdhedral. Sect. Y. passed in 1836 to the Duke of Eicli- mond — is considered the great place in tliis part of the kingdom. Its ex- terior measures 600 ft. in length, and it has four storeys, the whole being faced with freestone and 'surmounted by battlements. Behind the centre rises a ponderous square tower of the 11th centy., 90 ft. high. With the exception of this tower the whole is modern, and there is no grandeur about it except as regards size. The gardens are well laid out, and occupy an area of 12 acres. In the interior are good family portraits, some copies of the old masters, and some statuary. The fishery of the Spey is part of the property, and has realised as much as £15,000 per annum. The duke's landed estate in county of Aberdeen amounts to 69,660 acres. It is about 3 m. from Fochabers to the mouth of the river at Gar- mouth, where it is of considerable breadth. At Kingston Charles II. landed 1650, and was at once com- pelled to sign the Covenant. The Spey and the Findhoru are both no- torious for their sudden floods, or "sjjates," during which the smallest burns become roaring torrents, cre- ating terrible havoc in their course. In consequence, the river bed and delta at its mouth are constantly changing, from the shifting of sand- banks. At Port-Gordon, 4 m. N.W., is a small harbour formed by the Duke of Richmond. The rly. now turns to the 1. to 68 4 m. Lhanhryde Stat., whence the traveller obtains on a clear day a distant vieAv of the Inverness and Koss-shire mountains, among which Ben Wyvis is conspicuous. Passing 1. Coxton Tower {see below), we reach 714 m. Elgin Jund. Stat. {±nn : Gordon Arms, in the market-place). There is no comfortable inn (1874). Elgin is a neat and somewhat busy town and Pari. Burgh of 7340 inhab., built on the winding banks of a deep but sluggish stream, the Lossie, and celebrated for the most splendid ecclesiastical- ruin in JST. Scotland. The centre of the town is a long and broad market-place, at one end of which stands the High Kirk, faced with a Grecian portico, and at the side the ancient Tolbooth. The Cathedral is situated about f m. from the Stat, at the E. end of the town. On the way to it you pass the High Kirk, the County Buildings (modern Gothic), and the Museum — a praisewortlw collection of local antiquities, geology, fossils, etc. ^ Elgin Cathedral (Holy Trinity) was founded about 1224 by Bishop Andreas de Moravia. It does not appear to have been completed by the end of the century, but in 1390 it was given to the flames on the Feast of St. Botolph, by the Wolf of Badenoch, King Kobert III.'s half- brother, at the head of a band of wild highlanders. It was rebuilt with a steeple, which fell in 1506, but was raised again in 1538 to a height of 198 ft. Much of the ex- isting remains, however, precede in date the catastroplie of 1390. They consist of 2 stately W. towers, 84 ft. high, seen far and near, flanking a very handsome pointed portal, deeply recessed with vigorous and beautiful mouldings — indeed all the car \'ed work is excellent — surmounted inside by a pointed arcade, over which stood a large window, long since emptied of its tracery. Of the nave, of 6 bays with double aisles, nothing remains but the stumps of some of the piers. The central tower and part of the transept are quite gone. The beginning of this destruction was an order of Privy Council (156S) to strip the roof of its lead. A heavier blow was dealt (1640) by the General Assembly ordering the demolition of the in- terior, including a veiy perfect and Scotland. Route 55. — Elgin; Pluscardine. 363 beautiful rood screen richly adorned, painted with. Bible subjects. This work was effectually carried out by the minister of Elgin (Gilbert Eoss), and the Lairds Innes, Brodie, and others. The Chancel, raised on 2 steps, is lighted by 2 windows on each side. The choir was flanked by side chapels, and the main arches surmounted by an elegant clerestory of pointed windows in 2's and .3's. The high altar was lighted on each side by a pair of tall windows. The total length of the building was 264 ft. The two best bits of the church date from the 13th cent}^, the best period of Gothic, and escaped the conflagration by ' ' the Wolf. " They are the facade of the S. transept, showing a line bold doorway, with a sort of toothed moulding, surmounted by a jDointed oval, the round arch appearing in the windows above the pointed and the E. end of the choir. "The E. end wall is virtually one great window of 2 rows of 5 lancets each, but having piers between them instead of mullions, and a wheel at the top. Its details are exquisite, and the whole design rich and beauti- ful. " — Fergusson. The best preserved part of the building is the octagonal Chapter- liouse, entered from the S. choir aisle, retaining still its elegant central pier and finely -groined roof, not unworthy to be compared with some of those of England. It dates from the first quarter of the loth centy., and de- serves to be taken care of. Of late, indeed, the ruins have been pre- served by Government, and some money laid out in repairs. Of the Monuments the best is an armed effigy of Hay of Lochloy (1421). The S. choir aisle, wdiich retains its stone vault, is set apart as a burial-place for the Gordon family : here rests the last duke. In the nave is placed an antique block of granite, carved on one side with a Cross, on the arms of which are the symbols of the four Evangelists ; on the other side are figures of a knight carrying his hawk, the spectacle ornament, the broken mace (Z), and the half- moon. It dates probably from 9th or 10th centy., and deserves notice. It was dug up in the town 1823. On the N.W. of the cathedral^ within the wall of the college, are the remains of the Bishop^ s Palace, and the Greyfriai^s Church, a long narrow building of the loth centy. ; also of the Dean's house. ^ m. E. of the town is Ander- son's Institution, for the maintenance of 10 old people and the education of about 300 children. Its founder. General Anderson, H. E. I. C. S., was an orphan, who, according to the story, was reared in the lavatory of the Abbey Chapter-house. The build- ing has a Doric portico, supporting a pediment, on which are 3 sculptured figures representing the founder of the institution aud its objects. Upon Lady Hill, among the ruins of an old castle, is a monument to the last Duke of Gordon, who died in 1836. The geologist may visit the Museum, which contains a good collection of fossils of the district, including fossil fish from Lossie- mouth, etc. pMilways to Inverness, 35 1 m. ; Lossiemouth, 5 ; Rothes, 14 ; Aber- deen, 71.^ ; Banff, 36. Excursions — a. Coxton ; h. Plus- cardine Abbey, 6 m. ; c. Spynie and Lossiemouth, 5 ; d. Kinloss and Forres, 12^ ; e. Fochabers, 64- a. 2 m. from Elgin, at the side of the rly. to Fochabers, is Coxton, a good specimen of the old Peel tower. It is completely fire- proof, and has no access what- ever to the entrance save by a ladder. Boute 56. — Pluscardine ; Sjjynie ; Aires. Sect. Y b. The ecclesiologist should make an excursion to '* Pluscardine Ahhcy, 6 m. S.W. from Elgin. The road (good, though rather circuitous) passes by Anderson's Institution. Take the first road to rt. and after- wards that to 1., and at 5 m. turn to 1. and cross a burn, after Avhich the abbey becomes visible upon the rt., in a charming situation, furnish- ing plentiful subjects for the artist. Protected from the chilling blasts of the Northern Ocean by a long and high ridge of hills, now thickly planted with fir, the abbey stands at the narrowest point of a valley which expands towards the E. and "W. in a long vista of luxuriant fertility. The very perfect remains have been well cared for, and, surrounded as they are by a high wall enclosing about 10 acres, approached by a nicely-shaven lawn, neat garden, and well-pruned trees, convey a vivid ijnpression of mediaeval civi- lisation and monastic repose. The church itself was cruciform, with a square central tower. Pluscardine Priory was founded in the year 1230, and dedicated to St. Andrew. The monks were Cistercians of the rule of St. Benedict. The architecture is chiefly Early Pointed, retaining, as usual, the circular arch in its doorways. The nave is gone, all but a fragment of wall ; the choir of 3 bays, -sAdthout aisles, is 56 ft. long. The Chapter -house, about 30 ft. square, shows remarkably delicate mouldings, and, like that of Elgin, is supported by a single central pier. The N. transept is a fine composition, and had a large round window in the gable. The old groined roof is still standing on the aisles of the transept and also on a small chapel at the N. of the choir. On the N. Avail of the choir is a credence table, on which 2 angels are represented as supporting a casket, and with their other hands squeezing a bunch of grapes. A flight of steps leads from the ch. up to the dormi- tory, upon which a substantial roof has been set. The Refectory has been fitted up as a chapel ; the old ]Hilpit of Elgin Cath. is placed in it. The buildings are luxuriantly over- grown, and there are some fine old trees in the grounds. [About the same distance from Elgin, to the AV. of the Rothes road, is the old Kirk of Birnie, which was the oldest bishop's ch. in the diocese of Moray, and which still preserves its nave and chancel entire. There is no E. window, the church being lighted by round-headed windows of Norm. date. In the interior is a copper bell, said to have been made in Rome. To be buried in Birnie kirkyard is the ambition of many of the country people, who consider its soil as peculiarly sacred. c. 1^ m. N. of Elgin, on 1. of the Lossiemouth Branch Rly., are the ruins of Spynie, the old residence of the bishop. The Loch below it has been drained. It was made the head- quarters of the see by a papal bull in 1203. At the destruction of the religious establishments it was granted to Alexander Lindsay, who was created Lord Spynie, and was afterwards killed in a street skirmish at Edin- burgh. The castle originally con- sisted of 1 large square tower of 6 storeys, with turreted angles on the roof. A court was subsequently added, protected at the other 3 angles by towers, and on the S. and E. sides by a moat. Over the main entrance the crozier is still seen, and on theS. side the chapel can be identified. Lossiemouth is 5 m. from Elgin, of which it serves as the port. A harbour was built here in 1839 with 2 basins.] Quitting Elgin, the line crosses the Lossie at Palmers Bridge, a name betokening its association with Pluscardine and Elgin, and passes under the Knock of Alves, a hill, on the summit of which is a tower, to Moray. Boute 55. — Forres; Swends Sk Findhorn. 365 77 ra. Alves Jund. Stat, [whence there is a branch rly. to the small port of Burghead, 5 m. Traces of ramparts and earthworks across the promontory on which it is situated bear out the tradition that Burghead was a Danish fort, although some antiquaries have considered it to have been the site of the Roman "ultima Pteroton " (?). In 1864 some mounds were examined at Bennett Hill, when kists were found with complete ske- letons and flint arrowheads. Pluscardinc Abbey is 4 m. S. preceding page). ; {see 81 m. Kinloss Junct. Stat., close to which is Kinloss Abbey, one of the most magnificent foundations of David I. The abbot was mitred and had a seat in Parliament, and the brethren were of the Cistercian order. At the Pieformation it was sold, and for centuries the building served as a quarry for all the houses and walls in the neighbourhood ; now it is re- duced to 2 fine round-headed arch- Avays and a few vaults. King Ed- Avard I. in 1303, and King Edward III. in 1336, lodged in the Abbey. To the 1. of the stat. are the ruins of BiLrgie Castle, the history of which is unknown, except that it once be- longed to Kinloss Abbey, and that Alexander Dunbar, a judge of the Court of Session, acquired it by his marriage with the niece of the last abbot. [A short branch rail on rt. is given off from Kinloss to Findhorn, a vil- lage at the entrance of the Findhorn Loch, which, owing to the devasta- tions caused by the sea, is the third village of its name. ' ' The first stood about a mile W. of the bar, the point at which tlie river originally entered the Firth, before the eastward pro- gress of the moving sand drove it into the channel it now occupies. The second village was planted a little to the N. of the present one, but it too has been swept aAvay. Nor does it appear that the existing town is free from the risk of being over- taken, partially at least, by a similar catastrophe. " — Geikic. ] 84 m, at Forres Stat, {buffet) a Junction is formed with the Highland Rly. to Perth (Rte. 48), and with the railways to Inverness and Aber- deen. {Inns: Royal Hotel at the Stat., clean and good ; Station Hotel ; Edgar's, in the town). It is a clean little town, pop. 3959, believed by some to have been a Roman station, and the Varis of Ptolemy. On an elevated platform, at the W. end of High-st. nearest the station, stood the Castle, whose site is marked by a tall granite Obelisk to the memory of Dr. Thomson, a native, w^hose de- votion to the troops in the Crimea is gratefully remembered. S. of the town rises the wooded Hill of Cluny, whose summit, crowned by a Tower, raised as a monument to Nelson, and accessible by winding paths, may be reached by following the street at the side of the ToAvn Hall. On the slope of this hill is a magnificent Hydro- pathic establishment, to which an omnibus conveys passengers from the rly. About a mile W. of Forres the Findhorn is crossed by a Suspension Bridge, replacing a stone bridge swept away by the floods, 1829. Forres is in summer a cheerful place, from which several very inte- resting Excursions may be made. The most interesting antiquarian remain in the neighbourhood is *Siveno's Stone, a narrow shaft of sandstone, standing in a field at the side of the road leading to Kinloss, 1 m. E. of the Town Hall, just be- yond the old turnpike. It is 23 ft. high, and is carved with figures of warriors and animals. " These figures are arranged closely in five divisions, forming, as it were, so many passages of the story. As far as can be discovered by ordinary ex- 366 Route 55. — Belugas ; Diilsle Bridge. Sect. V. amination, these, in the order from the top, are — -Ist and 2d panels, men and animals in two rows ; 3d panel, two rows of warlike figures, with in- struments of music, entering a gate- Avay as if in triumpli ; 4th panel, four warriors with spears, driving before them animals with human heads ; 5th panel, men as if in consultation." — Muir. It is asserted that the stone was erected by Malcolm II. or Macbeth (?) to commemorate the expulsion of the Danes. Between Sweno's Stone and Forres is a mass of granite riveted with iron, which marks the spot where witches used to be burnt. [One of the finest and most com- pensating Excursions in ISIorayshire is along the rt. bank of the Find- horn above Forres. Follow the road to Grantown, through the fine forest of Altyre (Sir Wm. Gordon Gum- ming, Bart.), turning rt. opposite his lodge, reach the river side, com- manding splendid views, and enter Ld. Moray's grounds at the Lodge of Sluie. Here admittance is given (and a small fee paid to the gate- keeper) to a beautiful footj->ath through the woods looking down upon Find- horn, 100 or 200 ft. below. The bends and twists of the river, as it forces its way through grooves in the rock at the base of pink precipices of granite, are extraordinary. The path commands a new view of a fresh reach or bend at every 100 yards, as the water, brown as porter, settles in dark pools or eddies over shelving rocks. The carriage should be sent round from Sluie to Logic farm-house and the Burnt Mill — a distance of 3 m., which may be reached by the pedestrian keeping always the rt. hand footpath. Having rejoined the road at the mill, a mile farther you reach Eelugas (Mrs. Geo. E. Smith), over the bridge of the Divie, close to which a wicket-gate rt. leads down the 1. bank of Divie to its junction with the Findhorn. At this point, and a little above it, these rivers at- tain the climax of beauty. The Findhorn writhes and tumbles through and over grand masses of granite fissured in all dii-ections, and rushing through narrow chinks, one of which, called Randolph's Leap, is said to have been cleared at a bound — though the whole river passes through the gap. At various spots inscriptions mark the height of the river during the terrible floods of August 1829, which devastated the grounds of Eelugas, planted and laid out with so much care and taste by Sir Thomas Dick-Lauder, their for- mer owner. The pedestrian may return to Forres by ascending the exquisite stream of the Divie, passing Dun- phail (Ete. 48) (Lord Thurlow), and rejoining the railroad at Dunphail Stat., where he may take the train to Forres. Following up the Find- horn, some of the gi-andest scenery is met with at Ferness, where the river runs in a very deep chasm, forming a series of cataracts, well seen from a path made in the rock. From Glenferness, seat of the Earl of Leven and JMelville, it is 2 m. to Didsie Bridge (Ete. 48), where the traveller can bait, and, if he choose, can visit the Streens, or proceed direct to Nairn and Inverness. A little before reaching Dulsie Bridge the river runs through the extraordinary narrow granite gorge called the " Streens." " What spot on earth can exceed in beauty the landscape comprising the Old Bridge of Dulsie, spanning with its lofty arch the deep dark pool, shut in by grey and fantastic rocks, surmounted with the greenest of gi-eenswards, with clumps of ancient weeping birches, backed by the dark pine- trees." — St. John. A branch road has been made to Cawdor, 6 m. At Comjhorough Bridge a junction is formed with the Highland road from Sloch-na-muich, and the Find- Scotland. Route 55. — Darnawaij ; N'airn. 36' horn is crossed, the Strathdearn road keeping up the 1. bank. Although very wild and desolate, the scenery is not remarkable except at Dalma- gavie Dell, where the glen becomes much contracted. The road finally ends at Coignafearn, a shooting-box of Mackintosh of Mackintosh. ] Distances from Forres to Eelugas 7 ra ; Keith, 29^ m. ; Elgin, 12i ; Kinloss, 3 ; Dulsie Bridge, 12 ; Dunphail, 5| ; Grantown, 23 ; Nairn, 9| m. The Cathedral of Elgin is best visited from Forres, as there is no good inn at Elgin. Bail. Forres to Inverness crosses the Findhorn, which is one of the most rapid and dangerous streams in Scotland, by a closed iron plate bridge. The mouth of the Findhorn is bounded on N.W. by the Sands of Ciilben, a broad range of mov- ing hills and sand-drifts, which, since the latter part of the 17th century, have overwhelmed and destroyed a tract of 3600 acres, once known as the Garden of Moray. The rly. passes rt. Dalvey (iST. M'Leod, Esq.\ famous for its gar- dens (the finest in Morayshire), and arrives at 87.| m. BrocUe Stat., to rt. of which is the House of Brodie, one of the stateliest in Morayshire, in the midst of well-grown fir-woods, seat of the ancient family of Brodie. It then passes (1.) Hardmoor, a wide and blasted heath, supposed to be that on which Macbeth and Banquo met the witches. A clump of fir- trees, visible from the train, was left by the Laird of Brodie to mark the spot when the forest was cut down. On 1. are Boath House (Sir J. Dunbar), and the ruins of Inchoch Tower, once the seat of the Hays of Lochloy. The village of Auldearn is the scene of one of Montrose's most brilliant victories, gained on the 9th May 1645, in which, with 1500 foot and 200 horse, he routed the Coven- anters, under General Urry, with great slaughter. About 3 m. from Forres, and 2 m. S. of Brodie, is seen (1.) the entrance- gate, decorated w'ith 4 colossal earl's coronets, of Darnaivay Castle (Earl of Moray), on the W. side of the Findhorn. The extensive w^alks through the woods on the river banks afford views little inferior to those on the opposite side {see page 366). It is shown on Tues., Thurs. , and Sat. Part of an old castle is included in the modern Italian edifice. Earl Randolph's Hall, 100 ft. long, with roof of oak, carved with pend- ants, is very magnificent. The castle is embosomed in a forest of oak and pine. 93^ m. Nairn Stat. [Inn : Ma- rine, very comfortable and moder- ate ; a Pari. Burgh ; Pop. 3735) is a favourite watering - place, having good sands, and easily accessible. There is a large Sicimming Bath, roofed with glass, near the shore, into which sea-water is pumped. Swimming lessons are given. Nairn is on the boundary between the highlands and the lowlands ; and until within a few years, both English and Gaelic were spoken here. The town has increased by the building of many villas and lodging-houses. Episcopal Cliurcli here. Excursions. — Same as from Forres The banks of the Findhorn — for a picturesque and charming Excur- sion take road to Forres, by Brodie, cross suspension bridge to Sluie, walk up river banks to Logic farm- house, where carriage may meet you. [5 m. to the S."\V., overlooking 3G8 rioiite 55. — Fort-George; Cidloden. Sect. V the ISTairn river, is Cawdor Castle (Earl of Cawdor). It is a well pre- served and picturesque castellated building of grey stone, from one corner of which springs a square tower, with small turrets at the angles. It is approached by a draAvbridge over the fosse, and is shown when the family are not living in it. Its chief interest lies in the belief that ]\Iacbeth, who, it will be remembered, was Thane of Cawdor, murdered Duncan in this castle. In reality, however, no part of the castle is older than the loth centy. It contains some family por- traits and fine tapestry, representing among other subjects the adventures of Don Quixote. In the dungeon is an old hawthorn - tree, which grew on the spot, the subject of the legend that the founder of the castle had a chest of gold earned by an ass, and that he had been advised by a hermit to build wher- ever the ass stopped. The halt took place at this very tree, which was enclosiMl in the fabric. Around the Castle are some noble old trees : ohs. a walnut and chestnut especially. There are fine walks in the woods. 2\ m. higher up the river jSTairn, on its 1. bank, is Kilravock Castle (Major Rose). It is not generally shown, but by favour may be seen on presentation of stranger's card. It consists of an old square tower, built in 1460, with lower buildings of a later date, and has been in the Rose family ever since. There is a good collection of armour and family pic- tures, and the gardens are beauti- fully laid out and well worth a visit. The 14th April, 1746, Prince Charles Edward spent at Kilravock, Avhere he praised everythingi and made him- self exceedingly agreeable. The next day was the Duke of Cumber- land's birthday, which he spent at Kilravock, remarking to Mr. Rose, the then proprietor, "you had my cousin here yesterday, " On the 3d day the cousins met at Culloden.] Bail to Inverness. 99 J m. Fort-George Stat. The fort, which is 3 m. distant, is an irregular polj-gon, with 6 bastions, and was built soon after the Rebel- lion of 1745, to keep the Highlanders in check. It is large enough to hold 3000 men. Johnson and Boswell were entertained here by Sir Eyre Coote, who was governor at the time. It Avas made one of the mili- tary centres and depots, 1872. 1. m. from Fort-George is a Ferry across to Fortrose, a nearly straight road. The road is continued S. to Grantown, and across the Grampians by Tomintoul to Braemar (Rte. 64). 10| m. Dalcross Stat., to the 1. of which is Dalcross or Dacus Castle, where the royal troops were put in array just before the battle of Cul- loden. The castle consists of 2 square blocks of buildings, joining one another at right angles. The windows are stanchioned with iron, and the original massive oaken door, studded with huge nails, still SAvings at the entrance. The hall is perfect, and has the dais or raised part at one end for the lord and his guests. The ceiling is of carved oak, partly painted. It was built by Lord Lovat in 1621, and in the 18th centy. was purchased by the Macin- tosh family. It is now used as a farm-house. rt. about half-way between Dal- cross and Culloden Stats., overlook-' ing Inverness Firth, is Castle Stewart, a fine example of the turreted house. It seems to have been built by the Earl of ]\Ioray in the latter part of the 16th centy. In 1624 it was taken by the ]\Iacintoshes and ren- dered uninhabitable, though in later years it has been repaired. 105 m. Culloden Stat. On 1., close at hand is Culloden House SCOTLAJsD. Route 55. — CuUoden. 369 (A. Forbes, Esq.), built on the site of the old mansion, which in 1745 belonged to Duncan Forbes, Presi- dent of the Court of Session, and a staunch supporter of the Hanoverian cause. It was for some days before the battle the headquarters of Prince Charles. About 3 m. from the stat. is Drummossie Moor, the ground on which the Battle of Cullodcn was fought on the 16th April 1746. It was then a wide open swampy heath, extending southwards from the Moray Firth, a great part of which has since been converted into arable land, and covered with luxuriant crops of grain. By the road from Inverness it is 6 m. to the large boulder stone upon which the Duke of Cumberland is said to have break- fasted that morning. The ground, it will be seen, was admirably adapted for the Eoyalists — strong in horse and artillery, and everything else appears, as if by a fatality, to have conduced to their success. Prince Charles was obliged to fight to pro- tect Inverness, but he might have chosen better ground than this. He had won every battle that he had fought — he had not abused his suc- cesses by misconduct— and yet his army was demoralised as though by a succession of defeats. The pay of the men had been long in arrear, and among the officers there was jeal- ousy and distrust of one another. The whole of the previous day the army had but one biscuit per man, and it had been marching all night with the intention of sur- prising the duke. This it had failed to do, and was now going to fight upon the most unsuitable ground that could have been select- ed. And to crown all, at the last moment arose that ever - recurring difficulty about the position on the right wing. The Macdonalds claimed it as their right from time immemorial. The Stewarts and Camerons were placed there, and the Macdonalds on the left. The armies had been about equal in numbers, but pressed by hunger and fatigue nearly one-half the rebels had straggled into Inverness, or fallen asleep on the line of march. The Duke of Cumberland drew up his forces in 3 lines, and began the battle with his artillery. The French gunners in Prince Charles' service feebly replied. The Highlanders waxed impatient and began to waver. Lord George Murray, seeing no time was to be lost, led forward the clans on the right, who, charging with their usual impetuosity, broke the Duke's first line. But the second, drawn up 3 deep, front rank kneeling, reserved their fire till the enemy were almost on their bayonet-points, and then poured in so murderous a volley as to make the Highlanders recoil. M 'Lachlan and M 'Lean were killed, while Lochiel was carried off badly Avounded. Now was the time for the Macdonalds to have proved the justice of the claim they held so tenaciously, and, like the ISIacpher- sons on a similar occasion, to have retrieved the fortunes of the day ; but in vain the Duke of Perth rode up and implored them to advance. In vain Macdonald of Keppoch charged at the head of a few per- sonal retainers, and fell, exclaiming, "My God ! do the children of my clan forsake me ?" Still one chance remained, and all might yet be well. Lord Elcho galloped up to the Prince, and begged him to put him- self at their head and lead the charge in person. The Prince hesitated, and declined. Lord Elcho turned away with a bitter execration, and swore he would never see his face again. A few minutes afterwards Charles suffered himself to be led from the field — the Macdonalds marched off without striking a blow, but with pipes playing and colours fly- ing — the battle of Culloden was lost, and with it the hopes of the Stuarts. The insurgents lost 1000 men killed and wounded, the royalists 300. 370 Rs. 55, Stones of Clava. — 55a, Aberdeen to Banff. Sect. Y. A monument \ m. to the W. of the great boulder shows where the contest was fiercest, and where most of the slain were buried. [1 m. to the S.E. of Culloden Moor, and 4 from the station on the S. (rt. ) bank of the river Kairn, stand the Stones of Clava, one of the most extensive remains of the kind in the kingdom. A footpath leads from Cumberland's Boulder Stone across the road, past a farmhouse, to the edge of the river Kairn, which is crossed by a wooden bridge. On the S. side of the river are several cairns, but it is probable that ori- ginally they were scattered about on both sides of the stream, for on the N. there are upright stones here and there in the corn-fields, and the little tributary of the Nairn is choked with stones of all sizes which have been cleared off the fields. The monuments on the S. side extend rather more than 1 m. They consist entirely of cairns surrounded by circles of stones, and of many detached upright stones, either mark- ing the spot where a cairn has stood, or part of an avenue lead- ing to and from the centre. The cultivation of the valley, and still more the erection of cottages and farm-buildings close by, have played sad havoc with this curious monu- ment of antiquity — here detached stones have been heaped together, there the cairns have been scattered. The valley extends N.E. and S.W., and the uncultivated part of it is so covered with gorse and juniper as to prevent one's comprehending the general ground plan of the whole. The principal .object is a line of 4 cairns, more or less perfect. When undisturbed they were 16 ft. high and 50 ft. in diameter. A ring of upright stones confines the base of each, and the whole is surrounded by a circle of detached slabs, some 50 yards in diameter. The 3d from the E. seems to be the most import- ant, and the slabs, are larger and flatter. With the exception of the last, which has fallen in, the cairns have all been opened, the easternmost very scientifically, by the order of ]\lrs. Campbell of Kilravock ; it was found to contain a chamber 12 ft. in diameter, with a passage 2 ft. wide opening towards the S. In the chamber was an urn, in which were ashes. The fields to the W. are full of blocks which show how far the cairns extended. The largest of all is nearly a mile to the W. Eound this cairn was a circle of moderate- sized stones, and beyond that a ring of very large ones, of the latter of which a single specimen is standing, 12 ft. high by 9 broad in its widest point. There can be little doubt, from all these indications, that the plain of Clava was at some prehis- toric time a cemetery for the great and noble Caledonians in the N. But whether all the interments took place at once, or whether, as in loua, these sepulchral monuments must be attri- buted to the history of several cen- turies, is a matter of conjecture. Fergusson ( ' ' Old Stone Monuments" ) supposes Clava to have been the burial-place of Brude, King of the Picts, who Avas converted to Christi- anity by St. Columba. The 'flat shores of the Firth of Inverness are carefully cultivated and teeming with grain, as are also those of the Black Isle opposite. On apj)roaching the Terminus, see rt. the mouth of the Caledonian Canal and the height of Craigphadrick (Rte. 64). 110 m. Inverness. Junct. Stat. (Rte. 64). {Inns: Caledonian, very good ; Station Hotel. ) EOUTE 55a, Aberdeen to Banff, by Inveram- say, Fyvie, and Turriff. As far as Inveramsay Junct. is Scotland. Route 55a. — Aberdeen to Banff: Fyvie. 371 described in Ete. 55. Quitting that stat. the line reaches 2 m. IVartle Stat, and Warthill House (Wra. Leslie, Esq.), an old Scottish, tower-house, with a hand- some modern addition, filled with precious objects of Oriental art. Here also is an interesting portrait of Prince Charles Edward, with a hawk and cocked hat. The house is sur- rounded by thriving woods, which hide it from the rly. 6 m. Rotliic, near which is Rothie House (Col. Forbes Leslie). 9 m. Fyvic Stat. To the rt. , over- looking the banks of the Ythan river, is *Fyvie Castle, one of the stateliest and best preserved castellated man- sions of Aberdeenshire. It occi.ipies a commanding site, and is built in the form of the letter L, with 3 lofty square towers, crowned by bartizan turrets, named after their founders, Preston, Meldrum, and Gordon towers. Between the first two is the old entrance, flanked by round bas- tions, now closed, but retaining its massive iron crossed-barred gate. The present entrance is in the rear, and leads to a broad Avinding stair. Tlie interior contains an interesting painting by Murillo, and portraits of Monmouth, Claverhouse, Queen Mary, Montrose, and Cecil, Earl of Salisbury. The original castle, pro- bably a tall peel tower, dates from the 13th cent. Edward L is said to have slept in it 1 296. The domain was part of the royal chase down to the time of Eobert II., whose son received it as a gift from his father, but shortly gave it up to his cousin. Sir James Lindsay. In 1390 the estate of Fyvie, Avith the castle, passed from the Lindsays to Henry de Preston, by whom the Preston tower on the S.E. was built. In 1596 it was bought by Alexander Seton, created Lord Fyvie and Earl of Dunfermline, Lord Chancellor, and tutor to Charles I. By him the Seton tower was added, and his arms sculptured on a tablet of free- stone over the gateway. It is pro- bable also that the whole was re- modelled and redecorated under his supervision. The tower on the IST.W. was added by the Gordons, who bought the estate in 1726. In the S.W. toAver is the Charter- room, adorned with grotesque carv- ings, and underneath it is a cham- ber, walled up. No one knows AA-hen or why it was closed, but a superstitious tradition that some great calamity Avould folloAV its opening has hitherto checked curi- osity. In 1644 the park Avas occu- X)ied by the ]\Iarquis of Montrose, whose intrenchments may still be traced near the garden. He Avas defeated here by Argyle. It is noAV the seat of Col. W. Cosmo Gordon. On the Preston tower is a figure of the Trumpeter of Fyvie, the subject of a charming love ballad. 3 m. loAver doAvn the Ythan is the ToiL'cr of Gight, which belonged to the branch of the Gordons from Avliich came Byron's mother. It was besieged by Montrose 1639, when he upheld the Covenanting cause, but he failed to take it. To the I. oi Auchterless ^Ut. {lil m.) is Towie, noAV a farmhouse, but formerly Tolly Castle, the residence of the Barclay family. The old hall is still complete, and appears to have been built or used for a chapel. It has a groined and ribbed roof, and is decorated with sacred emblems. In the recess at the farther end are 4 shields with representations of the Evangelists. An inscription on the exterior (partly illegible) says : — " Sir Alexander Barclay de Tolly Fundator, deeessit Anno Domini 1136 In time of Valtb al' men Semis friendly and friend is not^^ Knavin bot in adversity. 1593." In reality the date of the foundation 372 Route 5r^x.— Turriff ; Banff; Duff House. Sect. V. must be about 1300. The cynical spirit of the later inscription may be explained by Thomas the Ehymer's lines upon the castle : — " Barclay Tolly of the glen, Happy to the maids, but never to the men," Of this family was Field Marshal Barclay de Tolly, who commanded the Russian troops at the battle of Smolensko. To rt. of Auchterless is Hatton Castle, the seat of Garden Duff, Esq., which still preserves part of the old tower of Balquhally, the place of the Mowatts, sold by them in 1723. 18 m. Turriff {Inn : Commercial), a thriving industrious town, with manufactures of flax, thread, and brown linen, is a place of consider- able antiquity, as shown by the re- mains of the old Church, once the property of the Knights Templars. It is 120 ft. long and 18 broad, and has a handsome belfry, with a fine- toned bell of the year 1557. There are monuments to the Lindsay and Leslie families. The town Cross is very old, and used to be the spot where the Sheriff's Court assembled. In 1639 the Master of Forbes, who had collected a body of Covenanters here, was ignominioush^ routed by a party of Royalists, and the skirmish was afterwards known as the ' ' Trot of Turriff"." On this occasion, in this remote village, the first blood was drawn in the civil war of Scot- land. In the neighbourhood are Forglen (Sir R. J. Abercromby), a handsome modern house (2 m. from .stat.), beautifully situated on the banks of the Deveron, an estate of 8000 acres, and Dalgety (A, D. Ainslie, Esq.). The rly. now approaches the river Deveron, and reaches ' 21 m. Plaidy Stat, 2 m. rt. is Craigstone Castle (Mrs. Pollard-Urquhart), built 1607. It is a plain copy of the principal tower of Fyvie, so studiously plain indeed that the corner towers have been omitted after the corbels to support them had been built. The only de- coration consists of a row of grotesque sculpture over the central arch. 25 m. King Edward Stat., a cor- ruption of Kin-Edart, formerly be- longing to the Comyns. There are remains of a castle 1^ m. off, on a rocky eminence, which was one of their strongholds. 2 m. 1. Eden House, belonging to M. E. Grant Duff, Esq., M.P. On an eminence, separated from the town by the river Deveron, here spanned by Smeaton's Bridge, Om- nibus to and from the town \ m. is Banff Terminus. 29 m. Banff {Hotel : Fife Arms, clean and good), a Pari. Burgh and seaport of 2d class at the mouth of the Deveron, which separates Banff from Macduff. (Pop. 7439.) On the shoulder of the hill next the sea stood the Castle, at times a royal residence, and occupied for a daj'- or two by the invader Edward I. in 1296 and 1298. The castle is now supplanted by a modern house ; and a few lumpish walls and a ditch alone repi'esent it. Beyond it is Chalmers Hospital. In the Old Church-yard, behind the Post-Offiee is a fragment of a Gotliic Church, with one or two monuments. On the height near the present church are the Schools, a handsome building with a Grecian portico, built from funds left by Jas, Wilson, a native of Banff. In this building is a Museum, where some relics are preserved of Ferguson the astronomer (b. at Keith 1710). In Low St., opposite the Fife Arms, are the County Buildings, and near the end of the street, close to the church, is the entrance lodge to Duff House (Earl of Fife), a hand- some Italian mansion, with towers at the four corners, designed by the Banff. Route 55 a. — Banff ; Maaluff. 373 elder Adams, and built about the middle of the 18th centy., sheltered by trees near the mouth of the Deveron. It contains a fine collec- tion of paintings, which can be seen in the absence of the family by an order from the factor. Besides a number of family portraits of more than average merit, the following are the most noticeable old pictures : — Henrietta Maria, Fandi/cJc, full length in white satin ; Penelope Countess Herbert, same ; Charles I. as Prince of Wales, Velasquez, a good picture, but not a favourable portrait — the expression is sinister, and reminds one of his son James II. Lady Mary Coke, and Mrs. Abington, Sir J. Rey- nolds, a lovely picture, face full of expression and softness of colouring ; Hawking, Wynants ; Sir W. Lent- hall, Speaker of the House of Com- mons, 1640, Mytens; Infant Saviour, feeling the sharpness of the Crown of Thorns, Alonzo Cano ; Italian Land- scape, Zuccarelli : Salvator Mundi astride upon the globe, Luca Gior- dano, a tine jjicture, with more ex- pression than is generally found on this subject; Assumption, AIunllo{l); Duke of Richmond, Vandyck; Duch- ess of Richmond, same ; Charles I., Vandyck; Duchess of Richmond, Lely, a beautiful face and figure ; Prince Henry, Jansen; Jane Duchess of Gordon, Reijnolds; Princess Eliza- beth ; 3 children of James I., stiff and disagreeable ; 3 small heads by Holbein; an ecclesiastic, J. van Eyck ; a philosopher with a sciill, Q. Matsys ; head of a girl, Murillo ; Louis XIV, Rigaud ; Queen Eliza- beth, Hilliard ; porti-aits of the Eng- lish kings from Henry V. to George II., including a full length of Henry VIII. by Holbein ; the Chevalier, Prince Charles, and Car- dinal York by G. Hamilton, etc. There is a handsome library 70 ft. long, and a good collection of arms and armour. There is a charming walk straight through the Park to Alvah Bridge (2 m. ), where the rocks rise to the height of 50 ft. and are said to be as deep below the surface of the water. There is a Gothic mausoleum in the Park containing monuments to various members of the family. The estate amounts to 72,000 acres. Banff has a reputation for sea-bath- ing, but there are no machines. However, a Bath-house was opened in 1872. A little to the E. of Banff, on the other side of the Deveron, is the town of Macduff, politically united to Banff, though otherwise independ- ent, devoted to herring-fishing and some shipbuilding. It takes its name from the Fife family, whose property it is. From the hills above there is a charming view of the va,le of Deveron, and the Sutherlandsliire mountains in the distance. There is an Episco^Kcl Cli. at Banff. The terminus of the Strathisla Raihray, leading to Elgin and Inver- ness by Tillynaught and Grange, also to Portsoy (Rte. 55b), is at Banff Harbour, close to the Pier. 5 m. from Banff on the road to Portsoy, passing the gable end of the old ruined ch. of Boyndie, are the remains of the Castle of Boyne, once the property of the Edmon- stones and then of the Ogilvys. An older castle stood once upon the sea- shore, of which a few fragments re- main. Boyne Castle overlooks a deep ravine, which served as a de- fence to the N.W. On the S. is the entrance by a raised causeway across the moat. The gateway is protected by 2 round towers, and the whole building consisted of a rectangle, de- fended by towers at the angles. The W. side, with its hall, 80 ft. long, was added in the latter part of the 16th centy. 2 m. S. of Banff is Inchdrewer Castle, now converted into a farm- house. Here, in 1713, Lord Banff was bui'nt under very suspicioiis cir- cumstances. 374 Ro^ite 55b. — Perth to Elgin : Craig ellacliie. Sect. V. ROUTE 55b. Perth, to Elgin, by Craigellacliie and Rothes, and to Banff, by Craigellachie, Dufftown, and Keith Junction. Rail. From Perth to Boat of Garten June. Stat, is described Rte. 48. Quitting the Highland Railway, this line continues to descend Strathspey, by Nethy Bridge Stat. Grantoivn Stat., and Cromdale Stat. The river makes a wide sweep between well wooded hills. The Scottish dance music, the "Strathspey," is derived from this district." rt. is Tiilchan Lodge, I'esidence of the hospitable M. T. Bass, Esq., M. P., in a charming situation, and well backed by fir-woods, on 1. bank of river. Advie Stat. Near Dalvey is Glenlivat, famed for its whisky. The Avon, the largest tributary of the Spey, descending from the Cairngorm Grampians, falls in from the E. {see Rte. 52a). Railway crosses the Spey just above the junc- tion. Ballmdalloch Stat. At Delnes- haugh is a small Inn (Aberlour H.) where a horse and car may be hired to Tomintoul. Ballindalloch Castle (Sir G. Macpherson Grant, Bart.) consists of an imposing old square tower with modern additions. In the park are some fine avenues, leading towards the junction of the two rivers. It is an estate of 14,223 acres. Blacksboat Stat. The spire-like peak of Ben Rinnes is a conspicuous object on it. Carron Stat. The Spey is again Aherlour Stat, on rt. bank of Spey. 1 m. up the river Lour is a pretty fall, the Lynn of Ruthrie, 30 ft. high. rt. Aberlour House (Miss Mac- pherson Grant), a handsome modern mansion, picturesquely situated. A long hilly promontory, stretch- ing IST. from the Grampians towards the Spey here terminates in the clitt' called Craigellachie, round which the road, the river, and the railway wind. "There is nothing remark- able in either its height or form ; it is darkened with a few scattered pines and birch trees, and touched along the summit with a flush of heather ; but it constitutes a kind of headland or promontory in the group of hills to which it belongs, a sort of initial letter of the mountains, and thus stands in the minds of the inhabitants of the district, and the Clan Grant, for a type of the coun- try." — liuskin. In old times it was the trysting-place of the clan, and hence their war-cry became, " Stand fast, Craigellachie." Craigellacliie June. Stat. Inn : Fife Arms (fishing). The Spey is here crossed by Telford's elegant iron Bridge of a single arch, 150 ft. span, so debased as to allow ample water- way for the destructive floods. Here a riy. branches rt. to Banfl' by Duff- town (see next page). The rly. to Elgin follows the Spey, which winds round the W. base of the lofty hill of Ben Aigen, rising due N. after passing rt. near Arn- dilly the junction of the river Fid- dich, as far as Rothes Stat. (Grant Arms, a fair Inn), a picturesquely situated vil- lage on the 1. bank of the Spey, and directly in view of Ben Aigen (1500 ft.) From this place a branch of the noble family of the Leslies takes the title of Earl. The ruined Avails of Scotland. Route 55b. — Craigellaclm to Banff. 375 their old Castle rise above it on the W. They sold this estate about 1700 to Grant, Earl of Seafield, and migrated to Fife. Kear this is the large Distillery of Glen Grant. Elgin Junc. Stat. (Ete. 55). Craigellachie Junct. to Banff. Quitting Craigellachie and passing 1. Kininvie House (G. A. Leslie, Esq.), we ascend the Glen of the Fiddich to 11m. Dufftovrn Stat. , which is 1 m. from the village of modern origin, founded since 1817, at the confluence of the Kullan and Fiddich Waters {Inn : Wilson's). Near the stat. is Balvenie old castle, once the pro- perty of the Athole family, whose motto is on the front of it. No part of the building is older than the 15th centy. At a short distance from it is the modern castle, the seat of the Earl of Fife. Close to Dutttown is Mortlach Kirk, on the steep banks of the Dullan, originally founded as a primitive cathedral ch. by Malcolm II. It has, however, been modern- ised with the strictest Presbyterian ugliness, 2 round-headed windows being all that is left of the old building, besides some tombstones in the interior. The limestone scenery around Dufftown, Glen Fid- doch and Dullan, is very beautiful, and contrasts well with the granite peaks of the neighbouring hills of Uenrimies and the Convals. [From Dufftown two or three roads run S. through Glen Rinnes and Glen Fiddoch to Glenlivat, celebrated for its whisky. Its principal historical importance is on account of the battle of Glenlivat. The Earl of Ai'gyle had been de- puted by James VI. to reduce to submission the Earls of Huntly and Errol, and marched hither at the head of the Campbells. The rebel earls met him with a force numeri- cally inferior, but chiefly composed of gentlemen well aimed and mounted. The Earl of Argyle was defeated, and James YI. in conse- quence took the field in person. Huntly and Errol were not prepared, or could not muster force enough, to meet the king, who destroyed their strongholds, Huntly and Slaines castles. Overlooking Glen Fiddoch is the tower of Anchindoun, wliich was burnt by the clan Mackintosh in the 16th centy., an event com- memorated in an old ballad.] The Railway next descends Glen Isla to Drummuir Stat. E. is Drummuir Castle (Major Gordon Duff). Auchindachy — Earl's mill Stat. Keith Junct. Stat, on the Railway from Aberdeen to Elgin (Rte. 55), which we follow as far as 49 m. Grange Junct., whence the Strathisla branch is given off to Port- soy and Banff", passing 3^ m. Knock Stat., at the foot of Knock Hill (1640 ft.) 8 m. to Cornhill, rt. of which is Park House (Major Duff Gordon Duff). 10 m. at TiLLYN AUGHT JUKCT. Stat. The Railway divides — rt. by Lady Bridge Stat, to the sea, and along the shore to Banff Harbour Terminus, close to the Pier {see Rte. 55a) 1. 13 m. to Portsoy Terminus, a small seaport. The geologist will find in the rocks in the im- mediate neighbourhood a perfect storehouse of mineralogical speci- mens. Portsoy marble, a beautiful variety of serpentine, and a peculiar 376 Route 55b. — Craigellachie to Banff: CuUen. Sect. Y. flesli-coloured granite, are quarried here. A coach runs daily from Portsoy Stat, to Fochabers, passing not far from the ruins oiFindlater Castle, a few fragments of which are on a rock jutt- ing into the sea. The Norman family of St. Clair obtained it by marriage with Johanna of Findlater in the reign of David II. It afterwards came into the possession of the Ogilvys, who were created Earls of Findlater. The last Earl Findlater died in ]811, and the estates passed to the family which the Earl of Sea- field now represents. About 6 m. to the W. is Cullcn, {Inn : Seafield Arms, neat and orderly), a modern town, pop. 2055, of two cross streets sloping down to a small bay, on whose shore rise three rocks, called the " three Kings of Cul- len." Here stood the castle where the wife of Robert Bruce died. Close to the town is the very picturesque and handsome castellated man- sion, the finest in these parts, Cull en House, the seat of the Earl of Seafield, charmingly situated on the edge of a picturesque wooded glen. It has been enlarged by two tall flanking towers, and decorated in the castellated style of the 17th centy., and contains a valuable collection of portraits, including one of James VI., by Mytens. The CImrch, which is cruciform, has been well restored. It was founded by Robt. Bruce, and the bowels of his queen were buried here. It contains the fine tomb of Ogilvy of Findlater. It is a privilege to be allowed to drive through the tine woods of Cul- len House on the way td Elgin. Proceeding westward the road runs under the Binn of Cullen, 1048 ft. high, and through a well- cultivated district called the Enzie, to Buckie, where the stranger will be surprised to filid a somewhat imposing Roman Catholic Cathedral, the members of this religion abounding in this neighbom-hood. From Buckie it is about 7 m. to Fochabers {see Rte. 55), passing 1. Cairnfield (J. Gordon, Esq.) and through Gordon Woods. SECTIOISr VL Western Highlands and Islands (Outer Hebrides)— Skte— Lewis — Loch Maree— Loch Torridon — Glenshiel — Loch Alsh and Loch DUICH. INTRODUCTION. § 1. General Information. § 2. Princiijal Ohjects of Interest. EOUTES. 56 Oban to Portree in Skye, by Arisaig, Eigg, Kyle Akin, and Broadfurd . . . 381 57 Strome Ferry to Skye, Broadford and Portree (steamer) to Quiraing, Starr Rock, and Dunvegan . . 385 58 Balmacarra (Loch Alsh) to Porrree in Skye, by Kyle Akin Ferry, Broadford, and Sligachan (Excursion to Coruisk) . . . .389 59 Portree to Stornoway and the Outer Hebrides . . . 393 60 Invergarry or Fort-Augustus (Loch Oich) to Skye, by Tomandouu, Glenshiel, Loch Duich {Falls of Glomach), Loch Alsh, and Stroine Ferry . . .397 61 Shiel House Inn to Skye, by Glenelg and Kijle Rhea . 400 Dingwall to Strome Ferry and Skye, hy Sir athjyeffer, Garve, Achnasheen, and Loch Car- ron (Skye Eailway) . 401 Achnasheen to Loch Maree and Gairloch, LochTorridon, Shieldag and Applecross. — Shieldag to Loch Carron . 403 62 63 1. General IxroRiiAtioN. " The Hebrid Isles, Placed far amid the melancholy main." Thovison. From the N. side of the Great Glen of Scotland (the line of the Caledonian Canal) branch several nearly parallel valleys in a N.W. direction — Glengarry, Glenmoriston, and Glen Urquhart — all leading to splendid scenery. Glens Garry and Moriston conduct to Skye by Glen Shiel, which is pre-eminently the grandest approach to Skye (Route 60). Another line of access from the E. side of Scotland is by railway from Dingwall (19 m. N. of Inverness) to Strome Ferry, whence a daily steamer plies. This line of rail also gives access to the gloomy and grand scenery of Loch Maree and [Scotland.] r 2 378 § 1. General Information. Sect. VI. Loch ToiTidon, and the smiling beauties of Gareloch. Loch Hourn opening into the mainland opposite Skye, accessible from Glenelg or Glen Quoich, is not to be surpassed for grandeur. From Beauly or Invermoriston the wanderer may explore the unrivalled scenery of Kilmorack, the Druim, the Chisholm's Pass, Strath Affrick, Strathglass (Geusachan), the Pas sof Kintail, and the Falls of GlomaJc, which are also accessible from Shiel House Inn. The Inn accommodation of the district is very fair, good, and convenient. Shiel House Inn, at the mouth of Glen Shiel, is close to the lovely sea-lochs Duich and Alsh, and within a walk of Loch Hourn. Balniacarra and Strome Ferry, opposite Skye, are pleasant quarters. There are fair Inns at Loch Carron Station and other stations on the Dingwall line, and at Beauly is a large hotel. Strath Alfrick lias a smaller Inn, quiet and comfortable. Achnasheen Stat, is the starting-point for visiting Loch Maree. At the foot of that lake is the well-known Inn of Kinlochewe, and .*) m. farther the new Hotel of Talladale, on its margin, commanding the finest reaches of the lake. Loch Torridon, which has no Inn but the small public house at Shieldag, may be visited from Kin- lochewe. Drumnadrochit is a favourite Inn near the shores of Loch Ness, from which pleasant excursions can be made to the Fall of Foyers, to Strath Aflrick, etc. Shje also is well provided with Inns, at Kyle Akin, Broadford, Sligachan (rough, but fair), Portree (2), and Uig, as well as a new Inn at Steinscholl, near Quiraing. " stranger ! if e'er thine ardent step hath traced, Tlie northern realms of ancient Caledon, Where the proud Queen of Wilderness hath placed. By lake and cataract her lonelj' throne ; Sublime hut sad delight thy soul hath known, Gazhig on pathless glen and mountain high. Listing where from the cliffs the torrents thrown Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry. And witli the sounding lake, and with the moaning sky. " Such are the scenes, Avhere savage grandeur wakes An awful thrill that softens into siglis ; Such feelings rouse them by dim Rannoch's lakes. In dark Glencoe such gloomy raptures rise : Or further, where, beneath the northern skies. Chides Avild Loch Eribol his caverns hoar— But, be the minstrel judge, they yield tlie prize Of desert dignity to that dread shore, That sees grim CooUin rise, and hears Coriskin roar." Scott. The Isle of Skye may be approached — Introd. § 2. FrincijMl Objects of Interest. 379 1. from Strome Feriy Stat, of the Dingwall Ely. by daily steamer to Portree (in 3^ lirs.), calling off Broadford. 2. By ferry-boat from the pier near Balmacarra to Kyle Akin, a strait about 1 m. wide, or by ferry at Kyle Rhea. 3. By the coasting and cargo steamers from Glasgow and Oban twice a week, a voyage of 15 or 16 hrs. The island is so indented by sea-lochs and inlets that it is said no part is distant more than 4 m. from the sea. The climate of Skye is variable and rainy, the annual rainfall averaging 101 inches ; but it is not so bad as has been described. June and July are pleasant months, and though in August and September the weather is often broken, the traveller, well prepared, will find no more serious impediments to his -movements than in other parts of the Highlands. § 2. Principal Objects of Interest, There are 3 principal objects of interest in Skye : — (a.) Coruish, the most original, which is reached most easily in a yacht or steamer from Loch Scavaig. This approach is a scene of unrivalled grandeur — splintered and shivered mountains of bare rock, so black that, after rain, they look as though pitch had been poured over them, overhang the sea-shore. On Saturdays during Summer (wind and weather permitting) a steamer lands passengers on the shore of Loch Scavaig, wdthin half-a-mile of Coruisk. It is generally approached from Portree and Sligachan, w^hence it is a very roman- tic but severe walk or ride of 9 m. Coruisk is also accessible from Broadford — driving 5 m. to Torrin — boating thence round 2 pro- montories, and landing at the mouth of the Glen. The landlord at Broadford (Mr. Eoss) can make an arrangement with the Torrin boatman, and this is by far the easiest route if you can count upon fine iveather; and Portree, which is 9^ m.from Sligachan, is the nearest point to the other great sights — Quiraing and Storr Rock. (b.) Quiraing is 21 m. from Portree, and you can drive to within 1 J m. of it. (c.) The Storr Rock is 8 m. from Portree, and can be reached only on foot — a hard walk. Each of these 3 excur- sions requires a day to itself, but instead of returning to Portree from Quiraing the pedestrian may sleep at Uig or SteinschoU, and set out thence for the Storr. The high-level Route, following the tops of the hills and high plateau all the way from Quiraing to Storr and Portree, a suggestion of Mr. Nicolson, is recommended to the notice of hardy pedestrians. Cars and post-horses may be had at Kyle Akin, Broadford, Sligachan, and Portree. The Coollin Hills, which encircle Coruisk, are described by 380 § 3. P'lds' Castles. Sect. VI. Boswell as "a prodigious range of mountains, capped with rocky pinnacles in a strange variety of shapes. They resemble the moun- tains round Corte in Corsica." Sir Walter Scott tells us they take their name from the Ossianic hero, Cuchullin. The geology of Skye possesses considerable interest. The Coollin or Cuchullin Hills are composed of a peculiar rock called, from its excessive hardness, Hypersthene, One of the most striking views of this very remark- able group is presented from the sea. About 2|- m. N. of Portree a fine section of the Beds of the Oolite, from the Cornbrash to the Lias, is exposed, with ammonites, belemnites, and other characteristic fossils. The telegraph wires, carried through Skye, afford facilities for ordering beds and conveyances. § 3. PiCTs' Castles. Peculiar to the N. of Scotland, beyond the Great Glen or line of the Caledonian Canal, are certain round towers, called burghs or brocks, or Picts' castles, of unknown age and origin. The most perfect type is the Tower of ]\Iousa, on an islet in Shetland. From this example, and others less perfect, they appear to be cylinders of masonry tapering upwards into a truncated cone, or waisted like a dice-box. The walls are composed of an outer and inner concentric shell of untrimmed stones — evenly set, but without mortar. This rude masonry is bound together by 4 or 5 courses of slabs of slate placed crosswise, so as to leave in the thickness of the wall a gallery or inclined plane winding up to the top like a corkscrew, and lighted by small openings or slits in the inside. The rest of the wall is filled up with loose stones, and it may measure in thickness from 10 to 15 feet. The towers vary in height from 25 to 40 ft., and in diameter from 30 to 50. They were not roofed, but the inner slits open into a circular court. A low door on the ground level led into this and communicated with the winding galleries or cells, which in some instances are so low and narrow (3 ft.) that it is difficult to understand how any but a race of pygmies could have traversed them. Sir Walter Scott compares the Tower of Mousa to a ruined pigeon-house. More than 400 examples are known of these towers in the N. and N. W. of Scotland and in the Isles, for the most part more or less ruined. They are thus distributed — in Shetland, 75 ; Orkney, 70 ; Caithness, 79 ; Sutherland, 60 ; Long Island, 38 ; Skye, 30, etc. *^* See " Hints for Yachtsmen," in the General Introduction to this Handbook. P.o^//^ P^a^nhnn fn ^hvP- Fir/ri 881 Inverness. Route 56.—^ Oban to Shje : Elrjg. 381 EOUTE 56. Oban to Portree in Skye, by Arisaig, Eigg, Kyle Akin, and Broadford.— (Steam Voyage.) A steamer calls at Oban twice a week for Skye ; coming round from Glasgow by the Mull of Cantyre. Beyond Oban it makes repeated stoppages, so that punctuality must not be looked for. The time taken in the transit varies with the amount of cargo and the number of places at which the vessel calls ; but in general it may be calculated from 12 to 18 hours. Generally speaking the fare is good, and the officials are always remarkable for their attention to their guests, as, indeed, is the case in all Messrs. Hutcheson's fleet of steamers. Resist firmly all attempts at extortion by boatmen in rowing out to the steamers. We have seen a threat of throwing them overboard bring them to their senses when they attempted to pull ashore on their rapacious demands not being satis- fied. The route is the same as that described in Kte. 35 as far as Tobermory and the N. extremity of the island of Mull. Then the steamer rounds the cliff's of Ardnamurchan Point, having on 1. the distant islands of Tu-ee and Coll, and in front those of Muck, Eigg, Rum, and Canna. Muck (" Insula Porcorum," the Isle of Sea Swine, i.e. Porpoises) is very small, not above 1^ m. in breadth, and contains nothing of interest. Its geological constituents are trap and basalt. To the N. is Eigg (N. Macpherson, Esq.), off" which the steamer calls. The land- ing is difficult, and there is no anchorage. It is distinguished by a peculiarly shaped hill terminating in a lofty peak, 1346 ft. in height, called the Scoot or Scuir of Eigg, and formed of pitchstoue and porphyry — the trap overlying a forest of petrified trees. ' ' The Scuir of Eigg is a veri- table Giant's Causeway, like that on the coast of Antrim, taken and magnified rather more than 20 times its height, and then placed on the ridge of a hill nearly 900 ft. high. This strange causeway is columnar from end to end ; but the columns, from their great altitude and deficient breadth, seem mere rodded shafts in the Gothic style — they rather re- semble bundles of rods than well-, proportioned pillars. Under the old foundations of this large wall we find the remains of a pine forest, that, long ere a single bed of the porphyry had burst from beneath, had sprung up and decayed on hill and beside stream in some nameless land — had then been swept to the sea — had been entombed deep at the bottom in a sand of the oolite — had been heaved up to the surface and high over it by volcanic agencies working from beneath — and had finally been built upon, as arches are built upon piles, by the architect that had laid down the masonry of the gigantic Scuir in one fiery layer after another." Hugh Miller, "Cruise of the Betsy." The tree which formed this fossil wood has been long known to geolo- gists by the name of the Pinites Eiggensis. The island is sometimes visited for the purpose of seeing the cave {Uamh Ehraing), in which all the inhabitants of the island were smothered. This cave is 250 ft. in length, and about 25 ft. in height and breadth, and is situated in the S.E. corner of the island, not far from the landing-place. Some of the Macleods of Skye, having been thrown ashore upon Eigg, were hospitably treated by the Macdonalds ; but in consequence of some of them off'ering an insult to one of the women, they were bound hand and foot, and turned adrift in an open boat. They were picked up by some friends 382 Route 56. — Scoot of Eigg ; Canna. Sect. YL with a large force to avenge their in- juries. The inhabitants took refuge in the cave, and couhl not be found, and Macleod was on the point of re- embarking his warriors, when a man was discerned on the shore. Land- ing again, they tracked him by his footsteps (there being a light snow on the ground) to the mouth of this cave. There they lit a fire and stifled the whole population : — " A numerous race ere stern Macleod O'er their bleak shores in vengeance strode, When all in vain the ocean cave Its refuge to itsvictiins gave."— Lord of the Isles. Hugh Miller mentions that in the Bayof Lagg, which is to the N. of the island, is an oolitic sand, which on being struck emits a distinct musical sound — a metallic ring like that described as existing in the mountains of Jebel Nakous, near the Isthmus of Suez. Some 4 m. to the K of Eigg is the island of Rum, called by Sir Walter Scott, " Rona, " the magnificent peaks of which appear to rise immediately from the water's edge. It is seldom visited, save by the geologist — the island having undergone several changes, the struggling peasantry, who starved in their upland wig- wams, having been removed to make room for a gigantic sheep farm. "The geology of Rum is simple but curious. Let the reader take from 12 to 15 trap hills, varying from 1000 to 2300 ft. in height ; let him pack them closely and squarely together, like bottles in a case-basket ; let him surround them with a frame of old red sand- stone, measuring rather more than 7 m. on the side, in the way the basket suiTounds the bottles ; then let him set them doA\ai in the sea a dozen m. off the land, and he will have pro- duced a second island of Rum, similar in sti'ucture to the existing one." — Maculloch. On the E. coast of Rum is the inlet of Loch Scresort, at the head of which is the mansion-house (Captain Macleod), whence a glen of red sand- stone can be followed across the island to Scoor More 1509 ft., which contains the bloodstones or helio- tropes for which Rum is celebrated. The most lofty summits are to be found in the S. of the island, in the peaks of Haskeval 2667, Scoor-nau Gillean 2553, and Halival 2367 ft. About the same distance to the N.W. of Rum is Canna Island, cele- brated for its " Compass Hill " on the I*^.E., so called from the variation in the compass experienced by vessels which pass it, a phenomenon which Maculloch says is by no means confined to Canna, but is frequent through all the basaltic islands of the coast, owing to the quantity of iron present in that rock. In a pretty bay opening towards the E. there is a lofty and slender rock, de- tached from the shore. Upon the summit are the ruins of a very small tower, accessible only by a steep and precipitous path. Here it is said that one of the Lords of the Isles confined his wife, a beautiful foreigner, of whose fidelity he entertained sus- picions : — " Stern was her lord's suspicious mind, Who in so rude a jail confined So soft and fair a thrall ! And still when on the cliff and bay Placid and pale the moonbeams play. And every breeze is mute. Upon the lone Hebridean's ear Steals a strange pleasure mixed with fear. While from that cliff he seems to hear The murmur of a lute." As the steamer sails N., the travel- ler obtains magnificent views of the ranges in the mainland, embracing the mountains of Morven, Ardua- murchan, Sunart, and Arisaig, at which latter port the steamer calls once a week. The enti-ance into the harbour is difficult and dangerous. From the village (a good Inn) runs a very picturesque road to Glenfinnan and Bannavie (Rte. 37). Occasionally the steamer touches Scotland. Route 5Q. — Ohan to SJcye : Loch Nevis. 383 at Loch Moidart, overhanging which are the rnins of Castle Tyrim, an old fortress of Clanranald, burnt by the proprietor when he left in 1715 to join the cause of Prince Charles Edward. As the tourist approaches the coast of Skye, nearing the promontory of Sleat, superb views are gained of the rifts and black precipices of the Coollin Hills and of Blaven, which, if the evening be fine, are lighted up by the setting sun with magical effect. Entering Sleat Sound, the steamer passes 1. Arviadale Castle, the seat of Lord Macdonald, the lineal de- scendant of the Lords of the Isles, and head of the clan Macdonald. The modern Gothic castle is pleas- antly situated amongst woods and conifers round the house and garden, in which standard fuchsias attain unusual size, with a background of hills. It was built about 1815, and is not, therefore, ' ' the small house on the shore" in which .Johnson ajid Boswell were entertained so inhospit- ably in 1773. "Instead of finding the Lord of the Macdonalds sur- rounded with his clan and a festive entertainment, we found a small com- pany, and cannot boast of our cheer. " — BosiveU. The present house is ornamented with a window of stained glass, representing Somerled, Lord of the Isles, and founder of the fam- ily. To the clan ]\Iacdonald Napoleon was indebted for one of his best marshals. There is a small Inn at Armadale, and a good road thence to Broadford. On the opposite coast is the en- trance to Loch Nevis, up which the steamer occasionally goes for wool. It is a fine wild fiord, running some 15 or 20 m. inland, girdled on each side by steep mountains, and sepa- rating the districts of Morar and Knoydart. About half-way up on the N. side is the little village of Inverie, at the foot of Scoor-nan Gour ("Goat Peak") 2466, and at the very head is the hamlet of Sour- lies, from whence a road runs through Glen Dessary to Loch Arkaig (Pte. 37). The steamer now passes on 1. the grey and ruined Castle of Knock, and then calls at Isle Oronsay (St. Oran's Isle), where are the ruins of a small chapel formerly belonging to a nunnery and a lighthouse. Over- looking this island, on the E. shore of the Sound of Sleat, is Dimsdale, a handsome modern seat of L. D. Mac- kinnon, Esq., with gardens. Oppo- site this is the opening of Loch Hourn, which separates the district of Knoydart from that of Glenelg. Loch Hourn is a narrow sea-arm, extending inland about 25 m., through a series of mountains even finer than those of Loch Nevis, Ben Scrccl on the N. side being no less than 3196 ft, and Laorbhein ("Hoof- HUl"), on the S., 3341 (Rtes. 60- 61). The Coollin mountains of Skye also contribute to the grandeur of this scenery. It was in this neighbourhood that Prince Charles Stuart had a narrow escape from being surrounded by a chain of sentinels and watch-fires. Taking advantage of the few moments when the sentinels, having met on their beat, turned their backs to each other, he crept between them and got away. The steamer next enters the nar- row straits of Kyle Rhea, bordered on the Skye side by Scoor-nan-Gour (1983 ft.), and Bein-na-Caillich (2387 ft.), and on the mainland by the mountains of Glenelg. From Kyle Rhea, where there is no Inn, a very hilly road runs to Broadford, 12 m. (Rte. 61). On rt. is the village of Glenelg, with the ruined barracks of Beruera. Emerging from the Kyle Rhea, the tourist will be puzzled to make out in which direction the exit can be from the landlocked sheet of water now before him. In front, and stretching to the rt., is Loch Alsh, which at its eastern extremity is 384 Route 56. — Kyle Akin ; Broadford ; Portree. Sect. \l. he may find them occupied. There being no harbour accessible for steamers, passengers disembark in a boat. The landing is bad if the weather is rough. divided into two narrow lakes, named respectively Loch Luing and Loch Duich. Right opposite the mouth of Kyle Rhea is a wooded bank, under which the pleasant and comfortable little hotel at Balmacarra is situated (Rte. 61). Strome Ferry Rly. Stat, is 9 m. from it : hilly road (Rte. 62). The steamer, now guided by the light- house N. of the Kyle, turns sharp to the 1., through the straits of Kyle Akin, leaving on rt. a granite obelisk, erected by Sir Roderick j\Iurchison to one of his ancestors who was en- gaged in the '45. iKyle Akin (Inn: King's Arms, good), is the neatest-looking village in Skye, and possesses several modern slated houses. Here is a ferry, about 4 m. broad, and a good road thence to Broadford, 8 m. The steamer from and to Oban touches here. It is good headquarters for excursions. Upon a rock, near the village, are the ruins of Castle Moil, a small keep, said to have been built for the purpose of enforcing a toll from every ship that passed, by an old lady named Mackinnon, usually called "Saucy Mary." Kyle Akin owes its name to Haco, King of Norway, who sailed through the strait in 1263 on his way to and from Largs. The stean)er, passing the Lightliouse at the N. mouth of the Kyle, now comes more into the open, although it hugs the shore pretty closely as it passes to the inner side of the curiously green is- land of Pabba ("whose shores would furnish a museum with fossils "), in order to call off Broadford, which is overshadowed by Ben-na-C:!aillich. Ross's Hotel here is a very fair Inn, some short distance from the landing-place, and it can be recommended as a good starting-place for those who visit the Spar Cave and Loch Coruisk by way of Torrin (Rte. 58) and Loch Slapin. But as the Oban steamer usually arrives about midnight, unless the tourist has written to engage beds About 1^ m. off the land is Pahha Island, interesting to the geologist. It consists of rocks belonging to the Upper Lias, which swarm with fossil remains. "They rise by thousands and tens of thousands on the exposed place of its sea-worked strata, stand- ing out in bold relief, like sculptur- ings on ancient tombstones, at once mummies and monuments, the dead and the carved memorials of the dead. Trap dykes stand up like fences over the sedimentary strata, or run out like moles into the sea." Farther out is the Cambrian sand- stone island of Lunga, the next island to which is that of Scalpa, separated by a narrow strait from Skye, navi- gable only at high tide. The steamer then passes the W. shore of Raasay Island (Rafn's-ey). Next the narrow Sound of Raasay is threaded, skirting the W. shore of Raasay Island, in view of the modern mansion which has succeeded that of Macleod of Raasay (now no longer the Laird), where Johnson and Bos- well Avere so hospitably entertained. On the E. shore is seen the pictur- esque mountain pyramid of Glamaig, rising by the side of Loch Sligachan, which is terminated by the more romantic peaks of Scoor-na-Gillean. Leaving these behind, the steamer enters the small landlocked harbour of "f Portree, capital of Skye. {Lins : Royal, and Portree Hotels.) {See Rte. 57.) Scotland. Route 57. — Strome Ferry to Shje. 385 EOUTE 57. Strome Ferry to Skye, Broad- ford and Portree (Steamer), to Quiraing, Storr Kock, and Dun- vegan. Steamier daily in summer, starting from Portree at 9.30 a.m., to eatcli the mid-day train from Strome Ferry Terminus to Ding^vall — returning at 2 P.M. It is a voyage of ^h hrs. (32 m.) from Strome, calling olf Broadford to set down and take in passengers. Quitting Loch Carron through the narrow strait at Strome Ferry [see Ete. 62), the steamer traverses outer Loch (jarron, in view, rt., of the gi'and mountains of Applecross, and 1. of Mr. Alex. Matheson's modern Castle of Duncraig, while in front appear the picturesque mountains of Skye. Leaving to the S. the Strait of Kyle Akin, the shore is coasted along until abreast of t Broadford. — A roomy boat puts out for passengers. See Ete. 57, where the rest of tlie voyage to Portree is also described. It is full of variety. Coasting round the Island Scalpa, it passes the opening of a narrow bay, Loch Sligachan, which washes the feet of the grand mountain Glamaig, while beyond appear Scoor-nan-Gil- lean, and others of the Coollin range. It penetrates between the Island of Raasay, no longer owned by the Macleods of E., but purchased by Mr. G. G. Macka3^ in 1872, for £55,000. Here Prince Charles was some time sheltered by the laird in a miserable hut, all the houses having been burned by the soldiery. The steamer soon reaches the sheltered small harbour of t PORTEEE. Inns : Eoyal, just above the pier (L. Ross), very fair ; Portree Hotel, newer and comfort- able ; good cuisine (A. Campbell) ; [Scotland.^ (post-horses and carriages at both houses). This is the chief place in Skj-e, though but a village of 600 in- hab. It is built on a platform of rock, which presents towards the harbour a cliff 60 or 80 ft. high. Its name, ' ' King's Harbour, " was given to it after a visit of King James Y. It has 3 churches, 3 banks, and a Sheriff's Court-House. Behind the U.P. ch. is a pretty Walk among the trees overlooking the sheltered harbour. From this and other commanding points views may be had iST. of Storr Eock, and S. of the Coollin range. On tlie outskirts of the town is a cloth (Tweed) mill, employing some hundred persons. Steamer daily to Strome Ferry, returning in the afternoon ; carries the mails. Twice a week it goes to Gairloch in the evening — returning next morning. Twice a week a steamer to Stornoway touches here (Ete. 50). Coaches {Waggonettes) daily in summer to Uig, on the way to Quiraing, to Sligachan, on way to Coruisk, and to Dunvegan (Mail), returning in the evening. Distances: — Prince Charles's Cave, 4 m. ; Storr Eock, 8; Uig, 154; Quiraing, 2U ; Steinscholl, 24 ; Duntulm, 25 "• Dunvegan, 23 ; Sli- gachan, 94 ; Broadford, 24i ; Loch Coruisk, 18 ; Kyle Akin, 32 ^ ; Strome Ferry, 32. Excursions. — (a.) To Prince Charles s Cave, 4 m. due N., close upon the sea-shore ; best visited in a boat. Its mouth is screened by a fringe of stalactites. It is prettj', but scarcely worth the trouble of a visit, and its con- nection with the Prince is not proven. (b.) To Storr Rock.— k rough walk of 8 m. good (34 hrs.), by a path S ;S6 Fiotde 57. — Sforr Bock ; Uig. Sect. YI. over marsli and moor, not clearly defined. It is accessible only to pedestrians. About 4 ni. on the road from Portree to Uig, a patli strikes off rt., leaving rt. the hills of Tor Vaig and Essie. The track, which in wet weather is very soft and marshy, with many water- courses to cross, runs up a wide moorland valle}^, passing two small lochs, Fadda and Lethan, aliounding in small trout, direct to the Storr, which, unless there is a mist, is toler- ably conspicuous all the way. From Portree to Loch Staffin and the N. end of Skye extends a re- markable range of black clilfs, reach- ing to a height of 2348 ft. The upper part is a stratum of imper- fectly columnar trap-rock, resting on soft and crumbling oolitic beds and shales, which give way under the effects of rain and frost, and bring down the trap-i'ocks in masses, and detached pinnacles and blocks, resembling giant castles, exceeding far in dimensions any work of man, and forming miles of Cyclopean ruins. The most remarkable of them are Quiraing and Storr Rod', a black pinnacled clitf, rising 2348 ft. above the sea, commanding from its slope a grand and extensive sea-view. At the base of this range of high cliff is a broad terrace of moorland, from which a succession of inecipitous descents (in fact, an UndcrcHff) leads dow)i to the sea. The did Man of Storr is an isolated black obelisk of trap, rising to a height of 160 feet. Near the sliore, opposite the small green island of Holm, a singular waterfall bursts forth over a shelf of hai'd basalt, which, having resisted the water's action in washing out the oolitic bed below, has formed a cave, so hollowed out that you can get behind the cascade and see the sea-view through it. Beyond this the outlet of Loch JNIehall bursts down over the clitf in a waterfall. There is no inn or shelter near Storr Eock, and the usual course is to return to Portree ; a very stout walker, however, may, in 3 or 4 hours, find his way across the moor to Steinscholl (SA miles from Qui- raing), where there is a very fair Inn {sec below). An experienced Skye traveller suggests as an alternative "to ascend the Storr, and follow the mountain ridge the whole way till you come to the high road near Quir- aing. I have no doubt it is one of the grandest promenades in Skye, com- manding Avide views in all direc- tions." — N. Portree to Quiraing, 21.i m. — Coach (Waggonette) every morning in summer ; returning at night. A good road, traversing first a monot- onous undulating moor of peat land, with few patches of cultivation. Glimpses S. of the Coollin moun- tains ; N. "\V. of Macleod's Tables. 3 m. The road to Dun vegan tm-ns off 1. {see below). 6 m. Our road descends to the sea- shore at the extreme end of Loch Snizort, a Firth which penetrates far inland, dividing the promontory of Trotternish E., from that of Vater- nish W. A little short of this a footpath stiikes rt. across the moor, following the course of a small stream to the Storr Rock {see above). [10 m. a road turns off 1. to Kings- burgh Rouse. The old mansion in which Prince Charles found refuge 1746, and where Johnson and Bos- well were entertained by the Laird and his wife, Flora Macdonald, 1773, has been pulled down.] After surmounting a long ascent, the eye is relieved by a view down into the cheerful bay of Uig, shut in by high hills, and so sheltered as to enjoy a climate like that of Devon. It is bordered b}' neat houses, and well-to-do cottages, and two churches, and anion ^^p ,? Ross-shire. Boute G2.—lJingivaIl to Strome Fcmj. 401 show how it was constructed, about 25 ft. high, and 30 ft. diameter. The Avhole of this district belonged to the Macraes, a tribe which came from Ireland with Colin Fitzgerald. b. There is a rough road, just practicable for a car, to Loch Hourn Head, running round the coast from Glenelg, and skirting the north side of Loch Houi'n. It winds round the base of Ben Miolary and Ben Bcrccl (3196 ft.), which gives this district a peculiarly wild aspect. "Less accessible, but not less striking, examples of savage scenery may be found along the gneissoic shores of Loch Hourn and Loch ISTevis. The height and the angular forms of the mountain ridges, the steep and deeply rifted slopes, and the ruggedness and sterility of the whole landscape, distinguish these two sea-lochs from the rest of the fiords on the W. coast." — Geikic.'] Distances of Glenelg from — Kyle Rhea, 1| m. ; Bernera, 1 ; Glenbeg, 1^ ; Shiel House, 8^ m. Broadford in Skye (hilly road) is 13 m. from Kyle Rhea ferry. The Strait is I m. wide, but owing to the strong tide it takes ^ hour to cross. Charge (carriage and 2 horses), 6s. ROUTE 62. Dingwall to Strome Ferry and Skye, by Stratlipeffer, Garve, Achnasheen, and Loch Carron [Skye Railway]. 53 m. 2 trains daily in less than 3 hrs. — a single line, constructed 1870 — greatly facilitates access to the beautiful sea-lochs of Ross and Sutherland — also to the Island of Skye. At Dingwall Junct. Stat, {sec Rte. 65), this Rally, turns 1. out of that to Lairg and Golspie, and begins to ascend. 1. rises the ridge of Druim Chat (the Cat's Back), separating {Scotland. '\ Stratlipeffer from Strathconan, and the large and very perfect Vitrified Fort oi Knockfa,rrel ; rt. are the woods of Tulloch (D. Davidson, Esq.), 36,100 acres. A long and steep incline carries the train up to 5| m. Stratlipeffer Stat., at a con- siderable height above the Wells, and about 2 m. distant from them, whereas the carriage - road thither from Dingwall is only 5 m, {Inns : The Old Spa Hotel ; Strath- pefier Hotel, near the Wells and the Stat.) A watering-place of some local repute, not very lively, but is improving. It has pleasant walks around the Wells, and many large houses, in a well-cultivated valley ; belonging to the Duchess of Suther- land (Countess of Cromartie), Strathpeffer is resorted to for its mineral waters, .strongly impreg- nated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas — far more so than those of Har- rogate, containing, in addition, some saline ingredients which add much to their medicinal properties. The neighbourhood is sufficiently interesting to make it convenient headquarters from which to explore Ben Wyvis, Strathgarve, or Strath- conan. Omnibus to Dingwall — also to the Stat, to meet every train on the Skye Rly. a. The chief Excicrsion (10 m. walk) is to the summit of Ben Wyvis (Ben Uaish, Mountain of awe), which rises to the height of 3426 ft., though from its enormous bulk it does not seem so lofty. It is held from the Crown by the tenure ol producing a snowball from its ravines on any day of the year — no very difficult task. " On the ascent, the pedestrian will be annoyed at the immense extent of mossy broken ground at the base ; but after passing the first snow-wreaths in xVulteunire, which we recommend as the easiest track, he will find the whole upper « 9 402 Fioute 62. — Dingtcall to Sfrome Ferry. Sect. VI. acclivities deeply covered with a fine elastic moss, and from the corrie on the top he may approach and look down the clitis of Corie-na-Feol or the Flesh Corrie. Ben Wyvis is composed of slaty gneiss, with num- erous large veins of hornblende and granite, and intermixed with garnets. To the botanist this mountain is chiefly interesting for the earlier spring flowers, such as Saxifraga oppositifolia, Arbutus alpina. Azalea procumbeqs, Betula nana, etc., and for its mosses, and as a habitat for the scarce grass, Alopecurus alpinus." b. The Falls of Bogie, formed by the river that issues from Loch Garve, in a fine birch forest on the estate of Coul, are picturesque, though of no great volume — a drive of 5 m. Kear them is the Inn of Contin. Strathpefler was the scene of a bloody fight between the M 'Donalds and M'Kenzies, and subsequently between the latter and the Monroes, in both of which the M 'Kenzies were victorious. Near the pump-room a stone pillar, with a rude sculpture of an eagle, marks the spot where the tide of battle turned, and the Mon- roes fled. To the 1. of the road to Dingwall is the old ivy-covered Castle Leod, a baronial mansion of the Duchess of Sutherland, with pretty grounds ; open to the public at times. Distances. — Dingwall, 5 m. ; Garve, 8 ; Loch Acheltie, 3 ; Rogie Falls, 5 m. The rl}'-. continues to ascend the valley of the Pefl"ery, and traverses the ravine of Craig-na-Fidach — the Raven's Rock. The line here is blasted through slate and gneiss rocks, and emerges upon the wooded district of Rogie (Sir Arthur Mackenzie of Coul). N. rises Ben Wyvis. Along the shore of Loch Garve, If m. long, near which is Strathgarve, Mr. Han- bury's shooting-lodge, backed by woods, the rly. reaches 12 m. Garve Stat., a small hamlet on a pretty green plain, with a tolerable Highland Inn, where a horse and gig may be hired. From this a road to Loch Broom and Ullapool— 28 m. (Rte. 66). After 3 intervening dreary miles of moorland and stones, we rush into scenery afl"ording an agi^eeable con- trast ; a wood of birch and larch is traversed, on the shores of the crescent-shaped Loch Luichart, of which pleasing but partial glimpses are seen through the branches 1. It is 7 m. long, but the rly. touches merely its upper extremity, and passes swiftly rt. the Italian villa and grounds of Kinloch Luichart (Dowager Lady Ashburton, who has a private stat. on the rly. and an estate of 8500 xn,cres.) A lattice girder bridge carries the line over the stream pouring out of Loch Fannich — first skirting the margin and then cutting through the midst of Loch CuUen to 21 5^ m-. Auclienault Stat., and Inn at the foot of Ben Eigen N., and at the entrance of the monotonous green valley of Strathbran, over which ScuirvulUn towers on the S. with its 3 peaks, dividing Strathconan from Strathbran. The shooting-lodge of Mr. Prout is passed. 27 1 m. Achimshcen Stat. {Inn at Siftt. good ; horses and cars here). From this the interesting Excur- sions to Loch Maree, Gairloch, and Loch Torridon (Rte. 63) are made. Coach daily in summer to Loch Maree and Gairloch. Leaving behind Achnasheen, the train passes rt. Loch Ledgowan (on the N. shore of which is a shooting- lodge of Alex. Matheson, Esq.), and attains the summit-level, 634 ft. above the two seas. The small and melancholy Loch Scaven sends its waters W. into Loch Carron. rt. is seen Glencarron, purchased in 1874 by Sir Ivor Guest, Bart., with the Eoss-SHIRE. Route 63. — Achnasheen to Loch Maree. 403 small (leer forest attached, for £50,000. Sir Ivor owns 33,900 acres in Ross. Auchnashellacli Stat, overlooks the handsome shooting-lodge and grounds of Sir Ivor Guest, Bart. A path over the mountain N. leads to Kinlochewe and Loch Maree (Rte. 63). The freshwater Loch Doule is quickly passed. 45 1 m. Strathcarron Stat. {Inn, small hut very good ; furnishes horses and carriages), at the E. ex- tremity of the grand sea-loch Carron, of which a fine view* opens as far as Strome Ferry, the mountains of Skye rising in the far distance to the W. There is a road from this to Loch Carron, or Jeantoicn, 4 m. , a village on the N. shore of the Loch {Inn, clean and moderate), whence Ex- cursions may be made to Shieldag, 16 m.. Loch Torridon and Apple- cross, 20 m. (Rte. 63). The course followed by the rly. along the S. -shore of Loch Carron is the most picturesque and interest- ing of the whole route ; very wdnd- ing, following the ins and outs of the rocks, which frequently descend vertically into the sea, in rapid curves and some cuttings. It is carried only a few feet above the level of high tides, and the depth in many places is very great. 53 m. Strome Ferry Terminus, close to Avliich is the Stat. Inn : or Ach- more Hotel, commanding fine view, near the landing-pier. Steamer to Skye and Portree^ 30 m. (see Rte. 56) daily. On the opposite side of the loch, here crossed by a ferry | m. wide, is the Strome Inn. 4 m. W. on the shore of outer Loch Carron rises Duncraig Castle, the modern seat of Alex. Matheson, Esq., in a lovely situation, and beyond, to the W., is the village of Plockton. Instead of taking the steamer from Strome Ferry to Portree, the tra- veller bound for Skye may go by land to Balmacarra, crossing the hills behind Strome, up the glen of Achmore, a bleak drive, until the heights are leached, which command a view of Loch Alsh, of the grand mountains of Glenelg S. of it, and of the Coollin range in Skj^e to the W., a glorious prospect. Passing the small lake and manse of Loch Alsh, we reach 12 m. Balmacarra {Inn, comfort- able ; finely placed), a hamlet of scattered houses, the property of Alex. Matheson, Esq., opposite the ferry of Kyle Akin in Skye (Rte. 58). He owns 220,483 acres in Ross-shii'e. ROUTE 63. Achnasheen to Loch Maree and Gairloch, to Loch. Torri- don, Shieldag, and Applecross. Shieldag to Loch Carron. 28 m. to Gairloch. From Auch- nasheen a Coach daily in connection with the 10.45 a.m. train from Ding- wall, returning for afternoon train, fares between Achnasheen and Gair- loch, 7s. 6d.; to Poolewe, 8s. 6d.,— in summer, by Kinlochewe and the W. shore of Loch Maree. Loch Maree is seen to most advantage from this approach. This is one of the most beautiful and perhaps the least known Excur- sions in Scotland, embracing the finest scenery in Ross-shire. Achnasheen Stat., on the Skye and Dingwall Rly. , is provided with a very fair Inn (Rte. 62), which will furnish cars and waggonettes. The road thence I'uns N. W. alongside of Loch Roshk, a long melancholy lake, with bare treeless sides. At the foot of the lake, near Achnasheen, the geologist wall observe interesting examples of glacier moraine heaps, through which the river has cut its 404 Route 63.—KinlocJieive; Loch Maree. Sect. YI. way. At its head, a low watershed is crossed, and the road thence passes down the narrow Glen Dochart, at the end of which is a vista of Loch Maree, which suddenly comes into view, flanked on the E. by the grand mass of Ben Slioch, and intersected by promontories, which in the per- spective project beyond one another, till in the distance they seem to meet. 10 m. (from Achnasheen) is Kinlochcwe. {Inn, comfortable, but small.) Kinlochewe is a scat- tered hamlet, with a large shooting- lodge, 2 m. from the head of Loch Maree, near the junction of three streams from Glen Dochart on the S., Glen Logan on theE., and Glen- garry (up which runs the road to Loch Torridon) on the S.W. The scenery around is grand, the white peak of Ben Eay overhangs it, and the river, fringed with birch and alder, adds a charm to the landscape. A Free Kirk was built here 1875. Excursions can be made by boat on the lake, or by road to Talladale (9 m.), and Gairloch, 18 m. This is the best way of seeing the wild and savage ranges of mountains that rise from its banks — to Loch Torridon 10 m., and Shieldag {j)ost). N.B. — The right of fishing on Loch Maree can be obtained at the Inn, and Boats — 10s. to Isle Maree ; 20s. to Poolewe. [A rough road from Kinlochewe runs over the hills to join the Loch Carron Road, near Craig Inn, 8 m. ] Distances from Kinlochewe. — Tor- ridon Lake, 10 m. ; Shieldag, 14m.; Achnasheen, 10 m. ; Loch Roshk, 9 m. ; Talladale Inn, % m. ; Pool- ewe, 191 m. ; Gau'loch, 18. The road to Gairloch nms along the side of Loch Maree, and is very beautiful, passing through groves of indigenous v^oods which shade the road and hang high on the brows of the hills, and having in full view the bare sides of Ben Slioch. Loch Maree (St, Maolmbba's Lake) is 18 m. in length and 2 in breadth, and, while possessing many of the ordinary features of the Scottish lakes, has some very distinguishing ones, such as the abmpt way in which the mountains shoot up, the beautiful vegetation which in some places, especially on the S., festoons the rocks, and the cluster of islands, 2 4 in number, in the centre of the lake. And yet, taken as a whole, the sides of Loch Maree are bare, owing pro- bably to the establishment of some iron-smelting works about a century ago, and the extensive cutting down of the timber consequent thereon. The most striking object in the scenery is Ben Slioch or Sliabhoch (4000 ft.), which rises up in such an uninterrupted mass, nearly straight from the water's edge, that the tourist can scan its gi-eat rifts and gullies from base to summit at one glance. To the 1. , near Kinlochewe, the tra- veller gets good views of the curiously white quartz summits of Ben Eay and the hills near Loch Torridon. The scenery is particularly sti-iking at the Bridge of Grudie, looking up the Glen of Grudie. Nearly opposite is Lettereioe, an estate of 69,800 acres (Meyrick Bankes, Esq.), where the ironworks just mentioned were carried on. Their remains may still be seen, as also a cemetery called Clach-na-Sassenach, or the English- man's Grave. Continuing farther W. is a spacious amphitheatre of moun- tains, rising range above range, their summits grey and bare, with varied fonns, but all with graceful easy out- lines, though sharp and jagged to- wards the top. 9i m. Talladale. A large and handsome Hotel, built in 1872 by Sir K. Mackenzie of Gairloch, on a height commanding a grand view of lake and mountain. It will be a Scotland. Route 63. — Slatfadale; Gairloch. 405 great convenience to travellers, being almost the only house between Kin- lochewe and Gairloch. 11 m. Slattadale, where the lake trends to the IST.W,, and the road turns due AV. The lake here, in- creased to its greatest breadth, is crowded with islands, and a more distant view of the mountains is ob- tained in either direction. In the centre is Eilean Marce, crowned with woods and thickets, upon which it is said that St. Maree lived as an anchorite ; it is now used as a ceme- tery by some of the families in the neighbourhood. Close by is a little well, once celebrated for its healing virtues, and considered infallible in cases of insanity ; but the use of the water of the well had to be preceded by submersion of the patient in the loch. By driving from Kinlochewe as far as Slattadale, all the finest part of the scenery of the lake is disclosed. At Slattadale a path branches to rt., following the bend of Loch Maree to Poolewe at the head of Loch Ewe, 74 m. The road to Gairloch now ascends 1. for Ig m. a considerable hill, from which there is a magnificent retro- spective view, and soon turns W., descending a narrow and romantic glen, a fracture in the slate rock, traversed by the river Kerrie, pass- ing Loch Padhascally. A little far- ther on is a most picturesque water- fall. Kerrisdale is a charming glen, in its lower course completely grown up with firs and pines, over which peeps the summit of Bershuin. 18 m. from KinlocheAve, Gairloch Inn: a handsome large inn, built 1872. This pretty village has the same name as the Bay of the Sea, round whose shore its houses are spread. It is furnished with a Pier, at which the Stcanurs from Portree in Skye touch three times a-week, and from Glasgow once. It nestles at the head of the inlet, and close by the embouchure of a brawling stream. A little Avay up the glen is Floicerdah, an old-fashioned but comfortable house, built in the last century, in a nook surrounded by thriving plantations. It is a seat of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, the possessor of 164,680 acres in the Loch Maree district. It is well protected on the N. by a bank of rock, covered by trees, and serAang as a rampart against the winds from the Atlantic. Beyond it are the present parish ch., and the ruins of its predecessor. Gairloch was the district in which so much of Hugh Miller's early life was spent, as related in "My Schools and Schoolmasters." Conveyances from Gairloch. — Coach every day to Aclmasheen Stat. Distances. — Kinlochewe, 18 m. ; Achnasheen, 30 ; Talladale Inn, 9 ; Poolewe, 6 ; Loch Torridon (Shiel- dag), across the hills, 16. The road to Poolewe runs plea- santly along the high banks over- looking the Gairloch and a wide ex- panse of sea, with the northernmost promontory of Skye, and the islands of Lewis and Harris. It then crosses a ridge of hills, and descends to Loch Ewe at 6 m. Pooleice {Inn comfortable) is prettily placed at the mouth of the Ewe, a fine salmon river, which has but a short course from Loch Maree. 5 m. X.E., under the precipices of Ben Lairg lies LocJi Fruin (or Finn), where Salmo ferox may be caught. Inquire at Poolewe Inn about boat and guide (6s. a day), charge, 3s. 6d. per rod. [From Gairloch the pedestrian may reach Loch Torridon and Shieldag, without retracing his steps to Kin- lochewe by a fine walk across the mountains, about 16 m. There is no continuous path, and the way is difiicult to find. Following the road from Gairloch to Loch Maree for 406 Route 63. — Loch Torridon ; Shieldag. Sect. VI. about a mile, before penetrating into Kerrisdale, a path on rt. leaves the main road, and in about 3 m. arrives at a hamlet called Shieldag Gairloch. There secure a guid-e if you can, at least inquire for the path to Mr. Beatson's lodge, which follow into the mountains until a considerable loch is reached. The path passes a short distance to the 1. of it. The tourist Avill then have Ben Alligin on his 1. and in front of him a low coni- cal hill called Tombuie. Make for this latter, and keep to the rt. shoul- der, descending on liOch Eelugan. It is difficult to strike the right path, owing to the number of sheets of water, among which it is hard to dis- tinguish Loch Relugan. Cross an intervening ridge and descend to the sea to a hamlet calTed Diabag, where a boat may be got for Shieldag. There is no inn at Diabag, but at Shieldag a decent small inn, with 3 beds. The views on the Gairloch side of the Pass are remarkably fine, over to the island of Lewis, the mountain ranges of which are very conspicuous, but they are not to be compared with those round Loch Torridon, Avhich for abruptness, singularity of form, and extraordinary gleaming surface, present landscapes equal to anything in the Highlands.] Kinlocliewe to Loch Torridon (10 m.) thence to Shieldag (6 m. by water). A good carriage-road turns W. from the inn, up the vale of the Garry, under the white quartz crags of Ben Eay, which remind one of dolomite or chalk cliff's. The stream flows out of Loch Clair, where Sir Ivor Guest has a deer forest and shooting-lodge (Coulin). Now looms into view the grand form of Ben Liugach^ whose dark mural preci- pices, rising in places 2000 ft. above the road, are skirted by it for a space of 3 m. It forms the grand predominant feature of this journey ; its colossal lines, seamed with hori- zontal lines of stratification, resemble a series of terraces. The road at pre- sent ends at the shore of Loch Torri- don, where there is a poor fishing- hamlet, not far from Torridon House (Duncan Darroch, Esq.), an estate of 32,000 acres. There is a humble public-house on the shore. Boats, rather dirty, with 4 rowers, may be hired here to Shieldag, 6 m., for 12s., H 111'- (depending on the tide). It will save time to land 1 m, short of Shieldag, and walk a mile, as the tide runs strong round the point. Loch Torridon, though very little visited, is better worth seeing than most of the Scotch lakes, and it is to be regretted that the country is so wild and the accommodation so scanty that it precludes many tour- ists from approaching it. It consists really of three inlets, the outer or lower loch, and the upper loch, be- tween which branches Loch Shieldag, separated from the others by a very narrow entrance. The mountains which girdle Loch Torridon consist of dull red Cambrian sandstones, capped with quartz rock, which " may be seen stealing up the backs of the mountains, even to their very summits, and as they are marked by a snowy whiteness, the contrasting hues of the two rocks give rise to some of the most unexpected features in the scenery of these districts." — Geikie. The surrounding mountains sup- port very little verdure, so that the prevailing tint of the landscape is grey, not green. The rocky knob rising at the back of Shieldag is of gneiss, and commands fine views. Shieldag is a quiet little village, circling round the bay, with ch. and manse, inhabited by fishermen, and containing a clean small Inn, furnish- ing 3 beds ; and, by giving previous notice, good meals ; but meat and bread come from a distance, and Scotland. Route 63. — Apj^lecross ; Kishorn. 407 there is uot a horse or cart within 9 m. Its situation is very sechided, being just under the hill of Stron Nea, which rises up to the height of 1667 ft. Distances from Shield ag to Torri- don House, 6 m. (footpath, no road). Capital carriage-road to Courtown, 14 m.[; Stroma Ferry, 20 ; Loch Carron, 20 ; Strathcarron Stat, on Skye Rly., where horses and cars can be had, 24 m. {see Ete. 62), but by a mountain path it may be reached in a walk of 10 m. [If the traveller has time, it is a beautiful excursion to Applecross. A good road runs S. through Glen Shieldag to Kishorn and Loch Car- ron, 16 m. The traveller can either take this, or, if a pedestrian, can cross to the farm of Durinear, on the "W. shore of Loch Shieldag, and then strike over the hills to Applecross. The walk is difficult, and the path indistinct, but once the central plateau is gained, there is a good landmark in Loch Lundie, which must be kept well to the 1. Eight in front the path may be seen breasting the steep mounta,in, on the other side of which is Applecross, the domain of Lord Middleton, 63,000 acres. It is difficult to over-estimate the beauty of the view from the summit of the hill, which embraces Loch Torridon and the mountains round Loch Maree. To the W. the Minch and the whole of the western islands, with Skye and the Quiraing, are seen lying directly underneath, while to the S. is a wide panorama of the Highland district of Loch Carron, Kintail, Glenshiel, Loch Hourn, with Ben Screel, and on a clear day Ben In evis. One would scarcely expect to find any architectural remains m such an out of the way district as this, but in former times Applecross [Inn) was selected as one of the earliest sites for a religious home by the brethren of lona, and Maolbride' s ch. was founded here in 673. Maol— Gaelic, bald — the equivalent of tonsured. A slab carved with a cross is still stand- ing near the modern ch. Other crosses once existing have disap- peared. It is said that the name is derived from a belief that every apple in the monks' garden was marked with the sign of the cross. The real derivation seems to be Apor or Ahcr, river mouth, and Crosaii, cross.] Shieldag to Strome Ferry or Strath- carron Stats. (Skye Ely.) A good though rather monotonous road, first up a wooded glen next skirting a wild open basin, crosses a ridge and descends to the head of Loch Kishorn. It leaves on rt. the bridge over which the road into Applecross passes, as- cending from which it attains the brow of a hill, whence a magnificent view opens of Lochs Kishorn and Carron, with the Skye mountains beyond, the sea, and an archipelago of islets. One mountain of peculiar form and great elevation, called Bein Bhain, especially arrests the eye. At the point best suited to command this view of unrivalled grandeur stands the mansion of Courthill, Vice-Chan- cellor Sir John Stuart, who owns 32,000 acres. From this the road turns due E., threading the romantic pass of Kis- horn, — extending to Loch Carron, in part filled with debris of fallen rocks ; fine views appear through its vista. A descent in zigzag carries the road to Loch Carron (formerly Jeantown), a considerable village on the N. shore of that lake, with a Church and manse. It stands on the old mail road running W. 5 m. to Strome Castle, opposite Strome Ferry, the terminus of the Sky€ Ely. There is a mountain path direct from Loch Cail-on to Shieldag (10 m.) The road skirts the shore of Loch Carron, and at its head reaches Strathco.rron Stat, (good Inn), on Skye Ely. (Ete. 62). 408 Route 63. — KisJiorn to Apptecross. Sect. VI. [The road from Kishorn to Apple- cross is wonderfully fine, in the opin- ion of some equalling that through Glencoe. It Avinds in a series of slants through the truly Alpine pass of Beallach-nam-Bo, the mountains rising on each side to nearly 3000 ft., and throwing a perpetual gloom over it. To the traveller just emerging from its shadows, the sunniness of Loch Kishorn affords a very welcome and pleasant relief. Do not attempt to cut across the estuary at the mouth of the river, for this is treacherous ground, and it is better to follow the road. It winds round the N. flank of Glen Bhain, and keeps the large Loch Danch well on the rt.] SECTION VII. Inverness — Sutherland — Caithness — Ross — Cromarty — Assynt- Lairg — Loch Inver — Dtjnrobin — Cape Wrath. INTRODUCTION. General Information. ROUTES. 6i Inverness to Cromarty, by Fortrose . . . .412 65 Inverness to Golspie and Helmsdale, byBeauly, Ding- wall, Tain, Bonar Bridge, and Lairg — (Rail) . .416 65a Beauly to Shiel House Inn and Loch Duich, by The Druim, Chisholms Pass, Glen Africk, and the Pass of the Beallach of Kintail . 421 65b Bonar Bridge to Golspie, by Dornoch . . . .424 66 Dingwall, by Garve to Ulla- pool and Foolewe . . 425 ROUTE 67 Lairg to Loch Inver and Dur- ness, by Oykel Bridge, Loch Assynt, and Scourie . 68 Lairg to Durness, by Loch Shin and Scourie 69 Golspie to Thurso and JFick, by Helmsdale . 70 Helmsdale to AVick, by the Ord of Caithness . 71 Wick to Thurso, by Huna and John-o'-Groafs House 7lxlj?dx^ to Tongue 72 Thurso to T'ongue 73 Tongue to Cape Wrath, by Durness and Smoo 426 429 431 436 438 439 440 442 Gexeral Information. In a traveller's point of view, these Northern Counties contain many objects of interest ; but, as they are somewhat scattered, the best mode of guidance seems to be to lay down a route which will include the most remarkable. The singular scenery of Assynt, extending from Loch Broom, N., derives its character from" the geological composition and modifica- tions of " a group of sandstone hills unique in the British Isles " — to use the words of Hugh Miller, who spent his youth among them. They rise abruptly as pyramids or columnar masses to a height of 2000 to 3000 ft., and include Suilven, Canisp, Quinaig, Coiilmore, Ben More, Benilie ; all forms of peculiar grandeur in the landscape. To these may be added, on account of their picturesque forms and great height — in the district between Assynt and the N. coast — Ben Hee, Ben Strome, Ben Spionn, Ben Hope, Ben Lair, and Ben Laoghal. The Assynt mountains consist of nearly horizontal strata of sandstone with vertical sides — looking as though regularly built up tier over tier, like courses of masonry. The Vale of the Beauly, in its upper portion called Strathglass and Strath Affnck, deserves to be explored to its farthest extremity ; [Scotland.] T 410 General In furmation. Sect. VII. and, without fail, as far as Loch Affiick. It is one of tlie loveliest, and, in jiarts, the grandest in the Highlands. — Route 65a. Caithness consists of barren but elevated land, much less varied by mountains, almost entirely bare of trees, except at Berriedale. The geology of Caithness has become specially interesting from Hugh Miller's account of it, and its extraordinary fossils, in his " Old Red Sandstone." The sea-clifts about Thnrso, however, with Dunnet Head and Holburn Head, and the singular detached rock, the Clett, have a grandeur of their own. The sea views from Dun- net Head to Duncansbay Head, over the furiously raging Pentland Firth, and the clitfs of Hoy and the Orkneys, are peculiarly grand. The Bay of Wick, the focus of the Herring-Fishery^ is an interesting sight, morning and evening during the summer, ^\•hen a fleet of 500 to 1000 fishing-boats may be seen standing out to sea, or returning laden with their spoil. Travellers from the S. usually approach this district by the Highland and other liaihcuf/s, via Inverness and Dingwall. It is also accessible by steamers from Aberdeen to Thurso, or on the W. coast to Ullapool and Loch Inver from Glasgow. Excellent roads penetrate the whole district, and tolls are so rare they may be said to be unknown. The Inns of the district are comfurtable and clean, especially those kept by tenants of the Duke of Sutherland, a liberal landlord, at the same time watchful over the interests of the public. The best inns are at Golspie, Lairg, Loch Inver, Scourie, Tongue, Dornoch, Durness, Alt-na-harra, Helmsdale, Brora. Lairg, besides its comfortable inn, is a good starting point, be- cause from it set out the mail carriages, which convey the post as well as travellers. They are a sort of open waggonettes, carrying from four to twelve outside passengers only, but not nmch luggage. Their courses are as follows : — Lairg to Loch Inver, Dullness, and Scourie. — Mon., Wed., Fri. Eeturning Tues., Thurs., Sat. Gai've to Ullapool. — Mon., Wed., Fri. j 1 horse mail-gig daily Ulkqjool to Garve. — Tues., Thurs., Sat. [ (except Sat.) Lairg to Thurso. — Three times a week. TJairso to Tongne, 45 m. in 9 hrs. — Three times a week. At the ciiief Inns post-horses, gigs, waggonettes, etc., may be hired at the usual charge — for one horse, Is. a mile ; two horses, Is. 6d. A carriage and pair may be hired at the Sutherland Arms, Lairg, for the whole tour, at the rate per diem — I^'TROD. General Information. 411 For two liorses, £l : Is. ; feed of horses, 10s. ; Driver, 6s. ; total, £l : 17s. On rest days only 16s. a day is charged. Sketch of a Tour. -heaiitiful drive by Loch Assynt Miles. 34 13 31 25 30 38 Lairg — To Inchnadamff- To Loch Inver - . - . - To Scourie — Excursion to tlie Isle of Handa - To Durness, Kyle Skou [Excursion to Cape Wrath. — The Cave of Smoo is scarce worth the trouble.] Kound the head of Loch Eriboll. A pedestrian may be ferried across. To Tongue (Inn a good resting-place) — fine sea views — fine situation under Ben Laoghal. [Excursion to Loch Laoghal] ------ Eeturn by Altnaharra Inn (good) to Lairg Or, Lairg to Thurso. Thurso to Wick, by John-o'-Groat's and Duncansbay Head. — Grand sea views. Berriedale. Brora. Dunrobin and Golspie. Lairg. Inn, 1 m. from Railway Stat. For the Fly-fisher Sutherland and Caithness present greater at- traction than almost any part of Scotland, from the number of their rivers and lochs ; they are nearly countless, and abound in trout and salmon. The fishing is private property — in some cases pre- served for the owner, in others let by him at so much per rod. The landlords of the various Inns have usually a right of fishing, the enjoyment of which can be obtained by visitors stajdng in their houses. Braal Castle, near Thurso, is a place of constant resort for anglers. (See J. Watson Lyall's excellent " Sportsman's Guide to the Rivers, Lochs, Moors, and Forests of Scotland.") The county of Sutherland com- prises a disti'ict of 1754 square miles, 1,176,343 acres of which be- long to the Duke of Sutherland. It touches the sea on 3 sides, and those parts which are near the water are more or less cultivated ; while upon the E. coast agriculture has been carried to a high standard. But the interior of the county is an ele- vated plateau, in many parts covered with heather, and including vast tracts of peat divided by straths of some fertility, and containing numer- ous lakes embosomed in bleak and dismal regions, and solitary mountain peaks. This part of the county is now wholly uninhabited, though at one time it contained a numerous population. -JE^ 412 FiOide, G4. — Inverness to Cromarty. Sect. YII. It is divided into 35 sheep-farms, each hearing from 1500 to 8000 sheep, and let at an average of 3s. for every sheep that it is able to maintain. Previous to 1800 the interior of the county was in a state of barbarism, tillage being performed in the very rudest way and on the smallest scale. The implement used was the crass- cron, a crooked stick shod with iron. There were no roads, no bridges — except at Brora and Dornoch — nor even was there any intercourse with the rest of Scotland. Since that time the mountaineers have either been re- moved to the coast, where the soil is good enough to repay the labour ex- pended upon it, or enabled to emi- grate to Canada. Their huts were pulled do\\Ti, and all cultivation being abandoned, the ground was thrown open to the sheep and the deer. Much heartburning and some in- dignation were the result of these wise and humane measures. But the people Avere incapable of improve- ment as they were, and, since the cessation of private and clan feuds, Avere unable to find a maintenance or employment upon such ground. For upwards of 20 years the whole rental of the property was spent in these alterations, and so successful has the plan been, that, instead of living, as they were obliged to do, by robbery and violence, there is now no more peaceable or honest population in the kingdom than the people of Sutherland, and strangers will be struck with their civility and good manners. Though Sutherland was at an early period conquered and partly colonised by the Danes, it is probable that they did not, except by occasional raids, penetrate into the interior, but contented themselves with the foundation and possession of its principal toAvns and villages. Gaelic has always been the language of the people, but it is fast dying out, and probably two more generations will find it extinct in these parts. Both roads and inns in Sutherland are excellent. That the Northern part of Scotland should be called Sutherland is to be accounted for only by the fact that the name was giA^en by a people dAvell- ing still farther north, in NorAvay and the Orkney and Shetland Islands. EOUTE 64. Inverness to Cromarty, by Fortrose. Inverness {Hotels : Caledonian, good ; Station Hotel ; Royal). Post Office, 27 High Street. Morel, purveyor, Church Street. Pastrycook — Macdonald, High St. Inverness, capital of the North (Pop. 14,463), stands near the mouth of the river Ness, chiefly on its rt. bank. The river, whose course is only 6 m. long between Loch Ness and the sea, is crossed by a wooden Bridge, by the Ely. bridge beloAV, and by a light suspension bridge above it. It is a Avell-built and prettily- situated toAvn, Avdthout any fine buildings ; but it is a dull one except on market-days and county meetings, or at the half-yearly assizes, and at the Highland Gather- ing in September, Avhen it is much too full. There is not much to be seen here. The Rly. Stat, is in Academy Street, and opposite the stat. runs Union Street, where are some of the best shops. If the stranger makes his way to a tall Steeple, corner of Church Street, con- taining the toAvn clock, close to the Toton Hall, and old Cross built into the Avail, he ayIU see a rude untrimmed stone in fi'ont of the Exchange, called Clach-na-Cuddin, stone of the pails, because the water-carriers used to rest their tubs on it. By folloA\nng Bridge Street, he will reach the Scotland. lioute 64. — Tiiverness. 413 Sns2)ension Bridge, from which lie will behold L, on the height, the City Jail and County Courts, imitating in a humble way the feudal and royal castle which once occupied the grand site and commanded the passage between the N. and S. of Scotland. It was blown up by Prince Charles, 1746. Dr. Johnson was willing to look upon the ruins which he visited as the site of Macbeth' s Castle, an assumx:)tion for which there exists no to 2 S 1:3 Caledonian m6 Hotel. o ^ Steeple. + ■^ To Canal. 83. To the Jail •cp or Castle. Post Office+ : Church Street. PLAN INVERNESS. :S : ■^ : Ingles Street. + Railway. Rly. Stat, and Hotel. evidence. The view from the Terrace in front of the jail is pleasing. Cross- ing the river by the Chain Bridge, and turning 1., we come to the Eijiscopal Cathedral (St. Andrew's) of the see of Aloray and Koss, of which the Primus resides here. It is a handsome modern Gothic build- ing (Alex. Ross, architect), conspicu- ous for its twin towers, intended to be crowned with spires when money comes in. It is a cross ch. , in style Dec, with aisles, ending in an apse. The Nave, of 5 bays, has granite piers ; the roof of timber. The Font, of white marble, and supported by an angel, is copied from one by Thor- waldsen at Copenhagen. The ch. cost about £20,000. A furore for Gothic has infected the kirks here — Old, Free, and United Presbyterian — all of which have adopted the st3de, while two have built towers, which aspire, some day, to have spires. Oliver Cromwell appreciated the strategic importance of Inverness, and built a strong fort on the rt. bank of the river, below the town, to com- mand the passage and bridle the wild Highlanders. It was pulled down at the Restoration to please the Clans and their Chiefs. The Academy is a school where about 200 pupils are educated, to which is attached a bequest of a Captain Mackintosh for boys of his name. Here is also one of the schools endowed by the late Dr. Bell, of St. Andrews. The country in the neighbourhood is exceedingly pretty — every charm of wood and cultivation is here in profusion. The landscape is flanked on the one side by the Firths of Moray and Beauly, and on the other by the fresh-water lochs of Dochfour and Ness. The dialect of the Inverness people is much more pleasant and less broad than that of the lowland or Aber- deenshire Scotch. Some account for this by the fact that the English troops of Cromwell were garrisoned here, and taught the people (who then spoke nothing but Gaelic) a better English than they would other- wise have acquired. Certain it is that English spoken more ' ' trip- pingly on the tongue" is not to be met with in Great Britain. Pleasant walks 1 m. S. W. to the Cemetery on the Fairies' Hill (Tom- na-hurich). See below. About a mile above the town the Ness is divided by several islands, joined by bridges covered with trees, and intersected by agreeable paths. The outlet of the Caledonian Canal is at Muirtown, Ig m. W. of Inver- ness, where it descends into the sea through six pair of gates. Steamers every morning at 7, from Muirtown Quay, start to Bannavie, 414 Route 64. — Environs of Invenii'ss. Sect. VII. 60 m., and Fort-William (see Ete. 39). Passengers may breakfast and dine on board. A sea-steamer will take them on at once to Oban from Bannavie. Railways South by Nairn and Forres, 24 m., to Dimkeld — Perth, 144; Elgin, 36; Banff and Aberdeen, 108. North to Golspie, 83 ; Ding- wall, 181 ; Tain, 44 ; Lairg— to Skye by Dingwall and Strome Ferry (Rte. 62) ; Beauly, 10 m. Environs. — A. Craig PhadricJc, an isolated conical hill, 420 ft. high, 2.§ m. W. of Inverness, beyond the Caledonian Canal, forms the ex- tremity of the mountain chain pro- jecting forward and commanding a large expanse of flat country. Its siimmit is traversed by two walls or ramparts of large stones, partly vitri- fied on the surface. This hill fort was the capital of the Northern Picts in the 6th cent. St. Columba came hither from lona to convert and baptize Brud, King of the Picts. B. Nearer the town than Craig- phadrick is a smaller hill of much the same shape, called Tom-na-hurich (Hill of the Fairies). This has been converted into a cemetery, most of the graves being on a iHateau on the top of the hill, which is reached by a road winding round the sides. The hill is prettily wooded, and is one of the most beautiful burial-places in the north. c. Cullodcn Moor, battle-field of 1746, is 6 m. bv road. 1 m. from Culloden Stat. (Rte. 55). D. Clava Plain, 3 m. from Cul- loden, is strewed Avith a number of old stone circles and cairns [see Rte. 55). D. The Fall of Foyers is 18 m. "W. on the S. shore of Loch Ness (Rte. 39). The daily steamer from Inverness reaches the Fall about 9.30 A.M. ; the return steamer touches there about 12, From Inverness to Cromarty a mail car runs daily, returning the same evening. Convej^ances can also be had at the inn on the N. side the Kessock Ferry (Rte. 65), which is the connecting link between the Firths of Moray and Beauly, and about f m. broad. Upon the N. side of it is a conical hill, wooded to the top, on which are the remains of a vitrified fort. Take the old road to it (which will shorten the way by about a mile) and ascend the hill, round which the new road is carried. The whole of this peninsula of Ross-shire, lyingbetween the Firths of ]\Ioray and Cromarty, was in old times known as the ' ' Black Isle, " from the dark colour of its soil. It was also called *' Ard- meanach," "the Monks' Height," from its religious establishments. It has 3 great ridges, about 600 ft. in height, running parallel to each other. The old road crosses them in succession, while the new one goes round their bases ; but, except in the case already mentioned, it is doubtful whether the new road is really the longer. [By the road to the 1. on the N. of Beauly Ferry, the traveller reaches at 5 m. the old tower of Redcastlc, once the principal house of the promontory, which, on the forfeiture of the earldom of Ross, be- came a royal castle, and then the property of the Mackenzies. The road soon after enters Beauly near the rly. stat. (Rte. 65).] 4g m., at the bottom of the first hill, is the village of Munlochy, from which there is a road going due N. to Invergordon, while that to the rt. leads along the coast to Fortrose and Cromarty. Passing at some distance on I. Rosehaugh, formerl}^ the property of "the bluidy Mackenzie," now the seat of James Fletcher, Esq., the tourist reaches 8r, m. the village of Aroch (pro- nounced Auch), occupied, it is said, by the descendants of a Danish co- lony, who have preserved many Norse words and expressions in their Saxon Eoss-SHiiiE. FiOutc (di. — Inverness to Cromarty : Fortrose. 415 tongue. The House of Aroch be- ^ longs to J. G. Mackenzie, Esq. 10 m. Fortrose. The quickest way of reaching Fortrose from In- verness is to go by train to Fort- George Stat., then to walk 4 m. to Fort- George, whence a ferry-boat lands the passenger 1 m. from Fortrose. Fortrose {Inn, good), a somewhat lifeless seaport and Pari. borough- Pop. 911 — was formerly the seat of the Bishops of Ross, whose palace has utterly disappeared. The lane on the rt., at the broken shaft of the old cross, leads to the Cathedral, stand- ing in a green close. It is a mere fragment of a large Cross ch., and consists of the S. aisles of nave and choir of elegant 2d Pointed Gothic, in red sandstone, the sharp mould- ings testifying, as usual, to the skill of Scotch masons. It was not com- pleted until 1185, by Abbot Frazer, who came from ]\lelrose, and the ch. retains portions of his work in the Perp. style of that Southern abbey. The ruin of the ch. is attributed to Cromwell, who used its stones to build the fort at Inverness. Against the wall of the chancel is the cano- pied toynb, "much mutilated, of a Countess of Eoss, said to be founder of the ch., 1330 ; and there is a later and poorer monument of a bishop. One arched compartment under the tower is walled off as the burial-place of the Mackenzies of Seaforth. Near the N.E. corner is the Chap- ter-house, a detached building of 2 storeys, the upper one is used as a school, and the lower— a crypt, in which there are some sedilia — as a granary or coal-hole. Sir James JNIackintosh went to school at Fort- rose, 1775. 12 m. EosemarJde, an old borough, much frequented for sea-bathing. There is a ferry hence to Fort- George. The road to Cromarty is very uninteresting, but the walk along the edge of the cliffs is a favourite resort of geologists, and has been much illustrated by the writ- ings of Hugh Miller. The Burn of Eathie exhibits the junction of the granite and the old red sandstone. The road passes Xewhall (J. A. S, Mackenzie, Esq.) and Pontzfield, (G. 3iL G. Munro, Esq.) 20 m. Cromarty (anc. Crombathi, "the crooked bay") was in former days a place of some importance, but has been reduced to its present in- significance principally by the failure of its herring-fishery. Pop. 1176. Cromarty Bay is well known as one of the safest anchorage grounds in the north. This is owing to lofty isolated rocks ( Lower Silurian), which form its portal, called " the Souters," which contribute to break the force of the waves outside. " One who approaches from the E. is at once struck with the narrow chasm-like entrance of the Cromarty Fii*th, cut through a long lofty range of red sandstone precipices. It is wholly unlike the mouth of any other firth in the countr}^ for it is not the sea- ward expansion of a land valley, but seems in some abnormal fashion to have been broken through a high barrier of hard rock." — Gcikic. Cromarty House (Col. Ross) stands upon the site of the old castle of the Earls of Ross. On a hill above the town rises a pillar-statue of red sandstone to the memory of Hugh Miller, b. 1802, in a humble cottage close to the churchj^ard, which con- tains several tombstones cut by him while a mason. Tarradale, in the Black Isle, not far distant, was the paternal estate of Sir Roderick Mur- chison, the geologist. Steamers from Edinburgh to In- verness call at Nairn, Cromarty, and Invergordon twice a week. From the ferry on the IST. of Cro- marty it is 9 m. to Tain, and a diver- sion to the old Abbey Ch. of Fearn, and the stone at Shandwick, will 416 Eoute 64. — Nigg ; Fearn ; Tarhet. Sect. VII. make it 3 m. longer, but it is not worth while, except for a determined ecclesiologist, to go to Fearn, which he can reach more easily by rail. The first place passed from Cromarty is the village of Nigg, where there is a very curious old sculidured stone attached to the S.E. corner of the Established Ch. It has been broken, but is riveted together again. Upon the top are 2 figures in an attitude of supplication, and below their out- stretched hands are 2 dogs, while be- tween the two descends the Holy Dove, with the wafer in its mouth. Underneath is a cross composed of rectangular figures. Z\ m. from this is the cross at Shandioick, a still more handsome and curious monument. It lies about 1^ m. beyond Ankerville Kirk, at which point the roads part. The stone stands about ^ m. above the village, is about 9 ft. high, and has on it a large cross formed of a number of bosses, which, being covered with lichen, look like so many brass- headed nails. Below the horizontal shaft are 2 representations of St. Andrew's martyrdom, and below that again an elephant and a dog. These stones may have been preaching- stones in the early days of Christian- ity, erected to mark the place where the priest or missionary of the dis- trict would meet and preach to the people. Fearn Stat, is 2 m. from Sandwick. The Abbey was originally founded at Edderton, 12 m. to the N. W., but was subsequently placed here, on account of the fertility of the soil. It Avas built by Farquhar, 1st Earl of Ross, about the year 1230, and inhabited by Augustinian monks. Patrick Hamilton, the earliest martyr of the Scottish Reformation, who was burnt at St. Andrews in 1528, was Abbot of Fearn, and at his death the abbey was annexed to the bishopric of Ross. The chapel was used for Divine worship till the year 1742, when the roof fell in on a | Sunday and killed 44 persons. The ch. was subsequently repaired with- out the slightest regard to architec- tural propriety. The style is mixed, the doors be-, ing round, and the windows pointed. The entrance was on the N. side by a Dec. door. Both on the N. and S. sides are small chapels, which at first sight bear the appearance of tran- septs. The chapel was roofed with 5 arches or ribs, 2 of which are still standing. In the S, chapel, now the Shandwick burial-ground, is a re- cumbent figure, under a handsomely carved canopy, long supposed to be that of an abbot, but ascertained to represent a lady of the clan Mac- kenzie, with a veil over her face. One- half of the chancel is set apart as the burial-place of the Ross family. From Fearn there is a road to Tar- hct Ness, the extremity of the penin- sula. To get thither a little piece of the county of Cromarty is traversed, the remainder belonging to Ross- shire. On the 1. is Loch Slyn, at the N. E. corner of which are to be seen the ruins of an old castle. 4 m. beyond this is Tarhet, in the churchyard of which are some curious plain and sculptured stones, and beyond is a fragment of the old castle of Balone, an outpost of the Earls of Ross, allowed to fall into decay after the strength and aggres- sive power of Denmark and its set- tlements had ceased to be formidable. ROUTE 65. Inverness to Golspie and Helms- dale, by Beauly, Dingwall, Tain, Bonar Bridge, and Lairg (Kail). 1014 m. Three trains daily in 8 hrs. The railway journey, of which this Scotland. Route Q^. — Inverness to Golspie — Beanli/. 417 route forms a part, may now be con- tinued nearly to John-o'-Groat's, at least N". to Wick and Thurso. The line passes through one of the most fertile and best-farmed districts in Scotland, the land chiefly held by resident landlords. Quitting the central station at In- verness, the train crosses in succession the Ness, the locks of the Caledonian Canal, and the road to Clachiiaharry, the "Watchman's Seat," whence the citizens in olden time looked anxiously out for the predatory bands who came from the N. and W. to plunder and destroy. The line keeps Craigphadrick, with its vitrified fort, to the 1., skirting the S. side of Beauly Basin, and passing rt. Kessock Ferry (Rte. 64), leading to the Black Isle. 34 m. Bunchrew Stat. Bunchrew House was formerly a residence of the Lord President Forbes. On the opposite side of the basin is Redcastle (Right Hon. Hy. Jas. Bailie), the old fort of the Mackenzies (6500 acres). 54 m. Lentran Stat. Tg m. Clunes Stat. 10 J m. Beauly 8t3it. Inn: Beauly Hotel, good quarters for fishing and for making excursions. This village is named from the Priory " de bello loco," whose ruins still remain, sur- rounded by some venerable trees, at the end of the broad street, on the 1. bank of the Beauly. It was founded by Sir John Bisset of Lovat in 1230 for monks of the house of Val des Choux in Burgundy. At the Reformation the then prior gave it in trust to Lord Lovat, and his descendants have retained its revenues. The ch. is of Pointed Gothic, consisting of nave ind choir without aisles, rather plain, if not rude, in style ; in the S. wall ire 3 windows in shape of large tre bils. It contains several monuments, ;hiefly to the Mackenzie family. Excursions. — The beauties of the upper valley of the Beauly are hardly to be exaggerated. No stranger should omit to visit its three gi-and gorges of Kilmorack (with its falls), the- Druim (pron. Dream), and the Chisholm's Pass, nor should he stop short of the romantic Loch Afirick, all described in Rte, 65a. Within 4 m of Beauly, on the S. side of the open valley, laeyond the river, are Belladruvi, the seat of J. Merry, Esq., on a tributary stream (5400 acres), and still nearer Beau- fort Castle (Lord Lovat), long seat of the Bissets, now of the Frazers (161,574 acres). The old tower was besieged by Edward I., and was nearly razed to the ground after Cul- loden. The present house is not remarkable. A charming drive of 7 or 8 m. may be taken through the parks and woods of these two fine domains, returning by the Falls of Kilmorack, crossing the Beauly by the timber bridge 2^ m. from the Inn [see Rte. 65a). 121 m, jj/j^^y Qj^ Q^,^ s^g^^ y\]iQre large sheep and cattle fairs are held in an enclosed space upon the Moor once a month during winter and spring, and twice a month during the remainder of the year. Passing 1. Highfield (J. Gillanders, Esq.), where is a neat Episcopal Chapel, and Conon House, the property of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, Bart., of Gair- loch, a lovely view is obtained on 1. of Strathconon, a picturesque and fertile valley, backed by a range of mountains of moderate height, over which towers Ben Wyvis. Castle Brahan, the seat of Jas. Stewart Mac- kenzie, Esq., of Seaforth, stands on the loAver slopes of the ridge, surrounded by thick masses of trees. It is an old castle, but so cropped and mo- dernised outside as to look like a factoiy. An estate of 8051 acres. 16 m. at Conon Stat, the river of that name is crossed, just as it flows into the Cromarty Firth. About 2 m. rt. on the S. bank of the Fii-th is 418 Route 65.—DmgwaU—AuU Graat. Sect. YII. Ferintosh, once greatly celebrated for its whisky ; the privilege of distilling which free from duty was originalh^ granted 1689 to Duncan Forbes, father of the President of the Court of Session, as a recompense to him for the losses he had incurred from the soldiers of Buchan and Carron at the Revolution. It was redeemed in 1786 for a payment of £20,000 to the family. 18| m. Dingwall Junct. Stat. (Inns : National, best, but ill-man- aged, near the Stat. ; Caledonian), Pop. 2125, is still called in Gaelic Inverpefferan, because of its situation at the mouth of the Peffer, near the head of the Cromarty Firth. Ding- Avall is a Norse name derived from Tingvolla, " Field of the Thing " or Parliament, or place of genei'al as- sembly. There is one long street, with an old tower, once a jail, in the centre, and at its N. end is the Ely. Stat., and close to it the new Jail ' and La2V Coujis, and a Gothic Free Kirk. Behind the old court-house, which is still used occasionally as a lock-up, stands aii obelisk 57 ft. high, strengthened by bands of iron, erect- ed by order of one of the Earls of Cromarty over his own grave, that his wife might be disappointed in her threat of dancing thereon ! It is now in a field b}^ itself, outside the cemeterj'. From Dingwall Excursions may conveniently be made westward by the STcyc Ely. to Skye — the first stage, 5 ra., being the watering-place of Strathpcffer (Rte. 62) ; also to Loch Maree and other interesting Highland scenery {see Rte. 63). Railways to Golspie and Helms- dale ; to Inverness ; — to Strathpcffer, Garve, Auchnasheen ; to Strome Ferry by Skye Rly. (Rte. 62), which diverges W. from Dingwall Stat. Continuing N". the rail from Ding- wall keeps close to the shore of the Cromarty Firth, having on 1. the hill and woods of Tulloch (D. Davidson, Esq.) (36,130 acres), and of Foiolis Castle, the seat of C. Munro, Esq. (4458 acres). The clan of that name has been seated in this country for many centuries. 23 m. Foiolis Stat. A little far- ther on is the village of Evanton. On the height is Balcony House (Miss Munro), built on the site of an old fortress of the Earls of Ross. 25 m. Novar Stat, li m. from the Stat, is the extraordinary Eavinc of the Ault Graat or "Ugly Burn," which flows out of Loch Glass on the northern flanks of Ben Wy^ds. Its deep and tortuous channel, only a few feet wide, nearly 2 m. long, be- tween sandstone cliffs 100 or more ft. high, is overgrown with bushes, concealing the burn, which rumbles beneath like a subterranean torrent. ' ' Over the sullen pool in front we may see the stern pillars of the por- tal rising from 80 to 100 ft. in height, and scarce 12 ft. apart, like the massive obelisks of some Egyptian temple ; while in the gloomy vista within, projection starts out beyond projection, like column beyond column in some narrow avenue of approach to Luxor or Carnac. The precipices are green, with some moss or byssus, that, like the miner, chooses a subterranean habitat — for here the rays of the sun never fall ; the trees, fast anchored in the rock, shoot out their branches across the opening, to form a thick tangled roof at the height of 150 ft. over- head — while from the recesses Avithin, where the eye fails to penetrate, there issues a combination of the strangest and A^ildest sounds ever yet produced by water — there is the deafening rush of the torrent blent as if with the clang of hammers, the roar of vast bellows, and the confused gabble of 1000 Yoices."— Hugh Miller. Then succeed the beautiful beech and fir woods which surround Novar (Col. Ferguson of Raith) (1 4,582 acres). Ross-shire. Boute 65. — Invergordon ; Fearn ; Tain. 419 At the back of Novar Stat, is tlie mil of Fyrish{U7 8 ft.) 28^ m. Alness Stat., a village of considerable size, at the mouth of the valley. 5 m. up the Alness river is Ardross, a grand modern Costle, built by Alex. Matheson, Esq. The rly. crosses the Alness by a singular viaduct, consisting of a skew bridge built on a curve, to 31-^- m. Invergordon Stat., a flour- ishing little port with a good harbour {Inn: Commercial, good), situated opposite the opening of the Cromarty Firth into the sea. Invergordon Castle, a short distance to the "W., was burnt down 1804, and is still a ruin. The views in the neighbour- hood are varied and pretty, embrac- ing seaward the whole of Cromarty Firth and the Black Isle, while Ben "Wyvis is a conspicuous and magnifi- cent inland feature. 34 m., near Delny Stat., is Tarhai House, a seat of the Duchess of Sutherland (Countess of Cromartie). It lies between the road and the sea, and was built by the late Lord M 'Leod on the site of one of the old castles of the Mackenzies, Earls of Cromartie, forfeited after the rebellion of 1715, but subsequently restored. It is surrounded by some venerable yews and elms, and old gardens. Es- tate of 149,879 acres. 36 m. ParJchill Stat. 37^ m., near Xigcj Stat. (Sculp- tured stones), is Balnagoican House (Sir C. Ross, Bart.), a very handsome mansion, consisting of an old tower with a pointed roof, numerous tur- rets — one of the grandest specimens of the Scottish architecture of the 16th centy. It has beautiful gardens and grounds, communicating with a picturesque rocky glen. Estate of 110,445 acres. 39 m. Fcarn Stat., whence the ecclesiologist can pay a visit to the old ch. of Fearn (Rte. 64). Calrossie is another seat of Sir C. Eoss. The high fanning of this disti'ict is cele- brated. The rly. noAV descends slightlv to the shores of Dornoch Firth." 42 m. Tain Stat. {Inns : Royal H., fair; Balnago wan Arms . Pop. 1765), an antique town of gradually de- creasing importance. Its name is evidently a comiption of "Thing," the Norse for "Court," the town having been the capital of the dis- trict h^ng between the Firths of Dornoch and Cromarty. It was made a royal burgh by Malcolm Canmore, and is still a picturesque old-fashioned place, which Avill well repay a halt. In the centre of it stands the original Tower of the Sheritfs Court, re-cased, but retain- ing its quaint old shape and its coni- cal spire, with small pointed turrets at each angle. Below the town, that is, between it and the Dornoch Firth, is a large flat, partly covered by the drifting sand. Here stands the old rough chaxiel in ruins, dedicated in the early part of the 13th cent, to St. Duthus, a Bishop of Ross. Probably there was some restoration at that time, for it will be seen that the E. end is of later date than the rest. The masonry of the body of the ch. is excessively rude, and must be as old as the lith centy. To this ch. the queen and daughter of Robert Bruce fled from Kildrummie Castle, and from it the)' were taken by the Earl of Ro^s and given up to Ed- ward I. In 1429 the church was burnt by the M'Xeills during the prosecution of a feud with Mowat of Freswick, who with some followers had taken refuge here, and it was never rebuilt. In 1471 the new Church of St. Duthus was founded in the centre of the town. It is a fine specimen of the Dec. style, with an E. window of 5 lights, surmounted by a six- foiled circle, supported by 2 trefoils. At the W. end a heavy porch has been erected in modern times, above 420 lioute 65. — Tain; Bonar Bridge ; Lairg. Sect. VII. which is the figure of a bishop, pro- bably St. Duthus himself. King James V. made a pilgrimage to the old chapel in 1527, at the instigation of Cardinal Beaton, who wished to get him ont of the way dming the martjT-dom of Patrick Hamilton. Beyond the ch. stands the Academy, a school of some reputation. On the S. side of the town is the modern ch., which most people mistake for the jail. It is a square battlemented building, with, formidable towers in front. On the opposite side of the Firth may be seen the Cathedral of Dornoch (Rte 65b). Railway to Golspie, Thurso, and Wick, and to Inverness, 44 m. Distances — Dingwall, 25^ m. ; Meikle Ferry, 2^ ; Bonar Bridge, 134 ; Dornoch (by Ferry), 6 ; Fearn, 3 m. The Ely. skirts the shore of Dor- noch Firth, which is the estuary of the Oykel, the Shin, and the Flete rivers. 46.2 ™- Meikle Ferry Stat. At this point, before the rail was made, was a ferry by which the coach pas- sengers crossed the Firth, so as to save them going round by Bonar Bridge. It is nearly 2 m. across, though a mole on each side has much reduced the distance. The direct distance to Golsjiie this way may be about 14m., while the circle which the rly. makes increases the distance to 36. The entrance to the mouth of the Firth is much impeded by a long sandbank called the ' ' Giz- zing" or ^^ Gey sen Briggs," a term evidently of Norse origin — and in stormy weather the breaking of the waves upon it may be heard at a considerable distance. Above the stat. is the house of Tarlogie (H. L. Eoss, Esq.), on the other side of the Firth, Skibo (E. C. Sutherland- Walker, Esq.) 494 m. Eddcrton Stat. Near the Cluirch, built 1793, are 2 sculptured Scandinavian monuments. 571 m. Bonar Bridge Stat., situ- ated on the borders of Eoss and Sutherland, is named»from a bridge, where the rly. leaves on the rt., spanning the estuary of the Dornoch Firth, or Kyle of Sutherland, wdiich is here contracted to a narrow channel. It consists of an iron arch 150 ft. in span, and two stone arches of 50 and 60 ft. respectively. It was built in 1812 at an expense of £14,000 by Telford, and has repeatedly withstood, unin- jured, the shocks of masses of ice and timber which the winter storms have driven against it. The Bridge Inn is very poor, but there is a good Inn at Ardgay, close to the stat. Distances. — Tain, 13i m. ; Jleikle Ferry, M ; Dornoch, 13^ ; Golspie, 21 ; Oykel Bridge, 20 ; Loch Shin, 12 ; Loch Assynt, 38 ; Loch Inver, 52 ; Ullapool, 38 m. At Invercarron, where the rly. crosses the Carron, Montrose's final array on behalf of King Charles I. was defeated 1650, and he himself driven a fugitive into the wilds of Assynt, where he was soon after cap- tured. The river Oykel is crossed on a lattice girder bridge. 60 m. Invershin Stat. Here the Shin, a good and early salmon river, is reached, as it flows into the Kyle of Sutherland from Loch Shin. There is an Inn at Inveran on the opposite side. The line then follows the river Shin up to 66 m. Lairg Stat, (omnibus), 1| m. from the village, and Inn,* Suther- land Arms, good ; situated near the foot of Loch Shin, a tame and narrow lake 24 m. long, but abounding in trout. Observe the extensive and enterprising agricultural operations going on by the sides of the loch, under the superintendence of the Duke. Four roads meet near here, making Lairg a place of importance in Sutherlandshire communications. The innkeeper furnishes cars, and gigs and waggonettes, and boats on Loch Shin for fishing, which is good Sutherland. Eoute 65a. — Beauhj to Kintail, etc. 421 here. AcJiavy is a seat of Sir James Mathieson, Bart., who owns much land hereabout. Mail-drags or waggonettes start Mon., Wed., and Frid., to Loch Inver, by Inchnadamtf (Rte. 67); to Scourie, with a branch to Durness (Rte. 68), returning the alternate days ; to Tongue (Rte. 67). Distances. — Bonar Bridge, 9 m. ; Inveran, 6 ; Rosehall, 10 ; Golspie, 17 ; Altnaharra, 20 ; Tongue, 35 ; Laxford Bridge, 37 ; Loch Inver, 46 m. ; Inchnadamff, 33 m. From Lairg the rly. turns sharp to the E., and surmounting a steep rise attains to the head waters of Strathflcct, which, wild and moory at first, improves in appearance and value as it descends to the E. coast. The farm-houses are comfortable and substantial buildings, and the cot- tages weather-tight. The land, not long since uncultivated moor, is now fertile in corn crops, the result of the most improved scientific hus- bandry. 76 m. Eogart Stat. From this a road runs northward to Strathbrora. 80 m. The M'&cipices of these islands are the most attractive feat- ures ; in some places cataracts tumb- ling over the edge into the sea, 700 or 800 ft. below. The employments of the inhabit- ants are fishing and fowling, while the women are famous for their skill in knitting woollen articles, a skill which they attribute to the Spanish association, the patterns which they work bearing a remarkable resem- blance to those seen on similar work done by the Moors. As soon as Fair Isle is lost to sight, Sumhurgh, the most southerly point of Shetland, comes into view, with its bare top and naked sides, guarded by a lighthouse. This lofty promontory (near whi(^h the reader of " The Pirate " Avill re- member dwelt the father of Mor- daunt Merton) is constantly exposed to the current of a strong and furious tide, which, setting in between the Orkney and Shetland isles, and run- ning with force only inferior to that of the Pentland Firth, takes its name from the headland, and is called the Roost of Sumburgh. On a neck of land in the West Voe are the ruins of Jarlshof, near which a new resi- dence has been built by the pro- prietor of Sumburgh. The cleft in the rock by which the inhabitants descend from the cliff above to the foot is called EricFs S'tejjs. To rt. is a higher point called Fitfiel or Fitful Head (White Mountain), the abode of JSTorna, the Shetland prophetess. The tourist who ^Aishes to explore the southern part of Mainland can land at Duurossness, and work his way along the coast (about 30 m.) to Lerwick. Stea'^inei's land passengers in small boats. Lerwick {Inns : The Queen's ; Zet- land), the capital of the Shetland s, and their only town, standing nearly in the centre at the E. side, on a headland surrounded on 3 sides by the sea ; many of the houses stand in the water. Steamers twice a week in summer, from Lerwick to the Northern Islands —Yell, Unst, Fetlar, etc. Lerwick has an excellent har- bour 1 m. wide at the mouth, and protected by the natural breakwater of Bressay Island on the E., and on all other sides by hills of gentle elevation. On the S. of the town is a small Fort constructed by Crom- well, but destroyed by a Dutch frigate in 1673. It was remodelled in 1781, and caUed, after the Queen, Fort Charlotte. Lerwick possesses a 456 Route 76. — LenvicJc; Tower of Mousa. Sect. VIII. handsome Academy, and an Hospital for aged persons, the gift of a Mr. Anderson, a native of tlie place. The town itself is irregular, many of the gabled houses being built almost in the water. The main street is only just broad enough to admit a cart in some places, and tortuous, allowing no view of the sea. It has a j^avement of smooth flags, with a narrow cause- way in the centre, on which the horses walk, while the cartwheels run on the flags. It is a bus}^ port, 1600 inhab. Shipbuilding is carried on, and a large trade Avith Holland, and it sends much salt cod to Spain. Knitting is the employment of the women, and Lerwick enjoys a cele- brity for its export of knitted wool- len articles. The original small breed of Shetland sheep, yielding the finest wool, is nearly extinct, the race having been crossed with the Cheviot. Excursions from Lerwick — a. To Timvall, about 2 m. to the N.W., a very picturesque valley, w^here the "foude," or magistrate of Shetland, used to hold his court. The road from Lerwick to Mousa affords fine sea-views, but the gene- ral aspect of the country is desolate, trees being unknown except under shelter of walls. b. 6 m. to the S.AV. of Lerwick is the village of Scalloway, and tlie ruins of the Cattle of Earl Patrick, the tyrdnit, consisting of 3 storeys with turreted angles. To the S. of Lerwick, on the E. coast, half-way between it and Dun- rossness, is the Island of Mousa, upon which stands the most perfect speci- men of a Pictish burgh or Fort. It is 42 ft. high, swelling out below, and expanding again at the top. See In- troduction, Section II. The centre was an open shaft, admitting air and light to the galleries. Torfseus says that to this foi'tress Erland, son of Harold the Fairspoken, carried off' the mother of Harold the Norwegian jarl, a famous beauty ; and that the jarl, unable to take it by force or famine, was glad to assent to terms by w^hich the lady became the wife of her ravisher. The name of Shetland or Zetland is a corruption of the old "Hialt- landia," by which name these islands were known to the earliest chroniclers. Tlie group consists of 100, but only 31 are inhabited, the population according to the last re- turn being 31,678, The climate is very variable, damp, and stormy. To strangers its incessant moisture is very depressing, though the inha- bitants do not find it unwholesome. In winter the cold is not great, but the days are very short, and their gloom is not compensated by the absence of night during a great part of summer. Spring can scarcely be said to commence till April, and little general warmth is experienced before the middle of June. Summer ends again with August. Although, visited under favourable circumstances of season and weather, the Shetland archipelago 08*6 rs many points of interest to the tourist, it is no less true that, until the facilities of locomotion shall be greatly in- creased, much time may be lost in fruitless eff'orts to reach these points. Many of these hundred islets attain a remarkable elevation ; but cliff scenery that is rather grotesc^ue than grand soon tires the observer, and the vast expanse of brown bleak moorland, intersected by narrow fiords, or closing round a sleeping loch, is but a poor compensation for the hills and woodlands of more for- tunate districts. The traveller who makes his way to these parts in hopes of sport runs a great risk of disappointment. No doubt, of mere sea-fowl, every variety, some very rare, may be found among the less frequented islands ; but of geese, du(^'ks, curlew, teal, snipe, etc., he will find no more than may be met with on any other part of the coast Shetland. Eoute 76. — Head of Noss ; Yell) Fetlar. 457 of England or Scotland. There is excellent fishing in the streams that run into the fiords, the sea-trout sometimes weighing as much as 15 lbs., and of ordinary sea-fish the supply is unlimited. Seal are rarely caught or even seen, except about certain spots, such as Papa Stour, to the recesses of whose porphyry caves they retire to breed. To encourage tillage all cultivated land was freed from the tax or " scat " levied on pasture and grazing stock. At the death of a holder all the land was equally divided amongst his children, male and female. This is the Udal tenure, and it acknowledges no superior and imposes no service. "Of whom, then," asked a southern judge, accustomed to feudal right, " does the Shetlander hold ? " "Of God Almighty," replied his advo- cate. The country was governed by the "Thing" or Parliament, which assembled in the open air in a place 3 m. N. of Lerwick, still called "Tingwall," Professor Airy thinks that many of the Shetland words are Swedish, and instances the word "grind," or gate, as being common to both countries. The Shetlands were, in the 16th centy. intrusted to stewards ap- pointed by the Crown, but as they farmed the revenues, and it was their interest to make what surplus they could, the islanders suff'ered greatly from their exactions, and the memory of Earl Patrick Stewart is yet the subject of execration. The last steward was the Earl of Morton, and the Earl of Zetland now holds the casualties by feudal grant from the Crown. The fisheries are the principal employment of the people ; for ling, cod, and herrings near home, and seals or whales on the coast of Green- land. Lerwick presents a very gay scene upon the return of the whalers from the Ai-ctic regions ; for two- thirds of their crews are landed upon these islands, with all their summer earnings, which sometimes amount to as much as £30 per man. On the E. side of Bressay Island is the Island of Noss. The Head of Noss is reached by crossing the hills of Bressay and taking the ferry at the foot of the opposite descent, with permission to land from the landlord. Noss Holm is a flat-headed rock, de- tached from the main by a narrow fissure lined by cliff's 400 or 500 ft. high. Access to it was formerly ob- tained by a cradle swung to a cord dangling by a loop to a rope stretched across the gap. This, having be- come worn out and rotten, has been some time removed. The rock is the resort of myriads of sea-fowl at certain seasons, and many persons live by bird-catching, being swung at a rope's end from the rock above. In Bressay remains of 3 Christian cells or chapels and several burghs are said to exist. Upon the island of Yell, which is the most northerly but one of the Shetland group, are the remains of 8 burghs, and the traces of 20 chapels may be discovered ; but most of these have little left except the foundations. About 5 m. from this is the island of Fetlar, much of which has been already brought into cultivation, and the remainder forms an excellent grazing ground for the beautiful little Shetland ponies long time ex- ported to England. Brough Lodge (Lady Nicolson), a castellated man- sion, occupies a picturesque situation on the coast facing Yell, and is the only house of note in the island. The cliif scenery in the neighbour- hood of St. Magnus Bay, to the N.W. of Mainland, is very fine and peculiar. [Scotland, j INDEX. A'AN LOCH. A'an Loch, 345 Abbey Craig, 164, 175, 269 Abbotsford, 17, 18 Ferry, 19, 75 St. Abb's Head, 33 Aberbrothock, 307 Abercairney, 287 Aberchalder, 250 Abercorn, 139 Abercromby, Sir Ralph, birthplace of, 270 Aberdeen, New, 322 ; Brig of Balgownie, 325 ; Castle Brae, 323 ; Cathedral, 324 ; cemetery, 323 ; churches, 323 ; colleges, 323, 325 ; Grammar School, 323; gra- nite, 324 ; harbour, 322 ; history, 324 ; King's Col- lege, 325 ; links, 324 ; manufactures, 322 ; IVlari- schal College, 323 ; Old Aberdeen, 324 ; pier, 322 ; railways, 326 ; statue of the Prince Consort, 323 ; steamers, 326 ; Tolbooth, 323; Town-hall, 323; Union Street, 323 Aberdeen to Alford and Strathdon, 354 to Banff, 370 to Braemar and Bal- moral, 334 to Fraserburgh and Peterhead, 351 to Inverness, 358 Aberdeenshire, 314 Aberdour, 140, 257 Aberfeldy, 283 Aberfoyle, 173 Abergairn lead-mines, 338 Abergeldie, 339 Aberlemno, 318 Aberlour, 374 Abemethy, 266 Aberuchill Castle, 286 Abington, 72 Aboyne, 332, 336 ALTNAHARRA. Achallater, 341 Achanaton Head, 201 Acharn Falls, 281, 2S2 Achavanich Inn, 437 Achavullin, 210 Achintoul, 441 Achlyne, 225 Achmore, 403 Achnacarry, 249 Achnasheen, 402, 403 Achness Castle, 426 Achray, Loch, 178 Ackergill, 436 Add, river, 212 Advie Station, 374 Affrick, river, 313, 423 Aigas, 412 Ailsa Crag, 113 Aird Castle, 199 Aird of Kirktommie, 441 Airdrie Junct. Stat., 159 Aird's Moss, 99 Airlie Castle, 316 ; Glen, 316 Airth Castle, 142 Airthrey Castle, 174 Aldie, 272 Aldourie, 252 Alexandria, 169 Ale Water, 12, 14 Alford, 355 Alguise, 425 Aline, Loch, 231 Allan Water, 19, 174 AUerly, 17 Alloa, 142 Park, 143 Tower, 142 Alloway Kirk, 118 Almond Bank Stat., 288 river, 160 water, 138, 144 Almondale, 160 Alness, 419 Alsh Loch, 383 Alt Drui, 346 Altnabreach Stat., 433 Alt-na-Craig, 224 Altnafedh, 226 Altnagalach, 427 Altnaghuissac, 329 Altnaharra, 439, 444 ARDMILLAN. Altrive, 77 Altyre, 366 Alva, 270 ; House, 270 Alves Junct., 365 Alyth, 315 Amisfield Stat, 70 Ample, river, 280 Amulree, 288 Ancrum House, 14 moor, 14 St. Andrews, 262 ; cathe- dral, 262 ; College, Castle, 263 ; Siege, University, Library, 264; conveyances, 265 Ankerville Kirk, 416 AnnamuUoch, 423 Annan, 71 ; river, gi Anstruther, 259 Antiquities, 17 Antorskyle, 426 Anwoth, III App, Glen, 112 Appin, 238, 239 Applecross, 407 Aray river, falls of, 220 Arbroath, 307 Archei-field, 37 Architecture, Gothic, 4 Ardalanish Point, 238 Ardcharnac, 426 Ardchattan Priory, 223 Ardchullarie, 279 Arden, 170 Ardentinny, 168, 217 Ardeonaig, 281 Ardiin, 207 Ardgay, 420 Ardgour, 229, 239 to Loch Sunart and Loch Moidart, 242 Ardgowan, 191 Arduicaple, 168 Ardkinglass, 219 Ardlamont Point, 211 Ardlarich, 291 Ardler, 316 Ardlui, 172 Ardlussa, 207 Ardmarnock, 211 Ardmillan, 113 460 INDEX. ARDMINISH. BALLOGY. BATTLES. Ardminish, 203 Auchrannie, Slug of, 316 Balmacaan, 252 Ardmore Point, 190 Auchterarder, 275 Balmacarra, 400, 403 Ardmucknish Bay, 239 Auchterless, 371 to Portree in Skye, 389 Ardnacross, 200 Auchtermuchty, 274 Balmaghie Ch., 103 Ardnamurchan, 232, 242 Auldbar, 318 Balmaha, 170 Ardoch House, 274 Road Stat., 318 Balmanno, 274 Auldearn, 367 Balmerino, 266 Ardpeatqn, 217 Auldgirth, 97 Balmoral, 339 Ardrishaig, 211, 213 Auldhame Church, 39 Balnaboth, 330 to Oban, 213 Ault-na-Cailliach, 443 Balnabroch Moor, 347 Ardross, 419 Aultbea, 423, 426 Balnagowan, 419 Ardrossan, 122, 192 Ault Graat, 418 Balnakielly, 295 Ardtomish, 231 Aultguithas torrent, 250 Balnakill, 444 Ardtun, 231, 237 Avich, river, 215 Balone, 416 Ardverikie, 247 Aviemore, 301, 347 Balquhain Castle, 359 Ardvoirlich, 280, 287 Avoch, 414 Balquhidder, 279 Ardvrech, 428 Avon Cumhanag, 399 Balvenie, 375 Ardvrechnish, 226 Avon river, 87, 88, 147, 339, Balwearie, 257 Ardwell House, 109 345, 374 ^ Banchory, 332, 334 Argyll's Bowling Green, 218 Avontoun House, 147 Ternan Stat., 335 Arisaig, 244, 245, 382 Awe, Loch, 214, 427 Banff, 372 Arkaig Loch, 243, 245 Pass of, 215 Bankton House, 41 Arkle, 429, 431 river, 222 Bannavie, 240, 248 Arklet Loch, 182 Aylort Loch, 244 to Arisaig, 242 Armadale Castle, in Skye, Ayr, 116 to Inverness by the 3S3 toiGlasgow, 116 Caledonian Canal, 247 Armadale Junct., 159 Water, 99, 119 Bannockburn, battle of, 161 Armstrong, Johnnie, 8 Ayton, 33 Stat., 161 Arnage, 352 Barach-a-bean, 215 Amiston, 21 Barb reck, 215 Aros Castle, 23 B Barcaldine, 239 Arran, 93 Barclosh, 102 Arrochar, 218 Bach Water, 81 Bargany, 113 Arthuret, 8 Bach-na-gairn, 329 Barmekyne of Echt, 335 Arthur's Oven, or Oon, 147 Badcoul,'43o Barmore, 211 Arthur's Seat, 56 Badenoch, 300 Barnbarroch, 106 Arvie, Glen, 201 — -Wolf of, 300 Barnbougle Castle, 138, 141 Ascog Hall, 210 Baillie, Joanna, 84 Barncluith, 87 Ashiestiel, 132 Bainoch, 350 Barnhouse, 453 Askaig, Port, 205 Balbardie, 159 Barns, 75 Athole, Blair, 293, 297 Balbegno, 333 of Airlie, 316 Forest, 350 Balcarres, 258 Sneck of, 330 Attadale, 422 Balcaskie, 259 Barnton, 138 Auch, 226 Baldoon Castle, 105 Barr, 203 Auchallader Castle, 226 Balemacumra, 202 Castle, 123 Auchallater farm, 247 Balfour Castle, 48 Barra, 359, 396 Auchans, 120 Balfron, 183 BarrogiU, 439 Auchenault, 402 Balgavies, 318 Barry Stat., 307 Auchencass, 71 Balgonie, 259 Barsicimming, 99 Auchencruive, 118 Balgowan, 287 Bass Rock, 38 Auchendinny, 129 Balgreggan, 109 Bastel houses, 12 Auchengray Stat., 73 Ballachullsh, 228, 239 Bathgate, 159 Auchinbathie Tower, 123 Ballagan Spout, 184 Battles : — Auchinblae, 321, 333 Ballantrae, 112 Aird's Moss, 99 Auchindarroch, 212 Ballater, 337 Ancrum Moor, 26 Auchindennan, 170 Pass of, 338 Bannockburn, 161 Aiichindown, 238, 375 Excursions from, 338 Culloden, 369 Auchingrew, 198 Ballatrich, 337 Dunbar, 34, 36 Auchinleck, 99 Ballenoch, 212 Dupplin, 276 Auchinskeith, loi Ballindalloch, 374 Flodden Field, 28 Auchmithie, 309 Ballinluig, 295 Halidon Hill, 32 Auchmore, 281 Balloch Castle, 170 Harlaw, 359 Auchnagatt, 352 Stat., 169, 184 Killiecrankie, 296 Auchnasheen to Loch Maree Ballochbuie Forest, 340 Klnloch Lochy, 249 and Gairloch, 403 Ballochmyle,?99 Langside, 84, 158 Auchnashellach, 403 Ballogy, 335 Loudon Hill, 100 INDEX. 461 BATTLES. BLACKISPOUT. BRAEMAR. Battles :— Ben Luigach, 406 Blackwater, Loch, 229 Pinkie, 41 river, 433 Prestonpans, 41 More, 225, 230 Bladenoch, 105 Sauchieburn, 162 Muich-dhui, 344 Blair-Adam, 267 Sheriffmuir, 274 na-Bourd, 342 Athole, 293 Tippermuir, 288 na-Cailliach, 389 Stat., 297 Battock, Mount, 332 Castle, 298 Beal-nam-bo Pass, 179 nan Head, 198 Blairhill, 272 Beallach of Kintail, 423 Blairgour Fall, 214 Beallach-nam-Bo, 408 Blairgowrie, 349 Beattock, 71 Newe, 357 Blairmore, 217 Beaufort Castle, 417 Blairs College, 335 Beauly, 414, 417 Screel, 383, 400 Blantyre, 84 to Shiel House Inn, 421 Slarive, 223 Blythswood, 189 Bedshiel, 30 Boat of Brig, 361 Bein-an-Oir, 207 Spionn, 431, 445 Garten, 302 Bein Bhain, 407 Stack, 429 Inch, 350 Bein-na-Cailliach, 383 Tigh, 249 Bochastle, 177 Beith, 22 Ular, 217 Boddom village, 310 Beld Craig, 79 Unach, 217 Castle, 353 Belhaven, 36 Belladron, lakelet, 302 Varen, 196 Bodsbeck, 78, 81 Boece, Hector, 307 Belladrum, 417 Voirlich, 280, 287 Boghead coal, 159 Bellanach, 213 Vracky, 295, 348 Boldside, 75 Belleville, 300 Vurie, 226 Bolfracks House, 283 Bell Rock Lighthouse, 309 Vuridh, 226 Bombie Castle, no Bellside, 160 Bonally, 67 Belses Stat., 12 Wyvis, 401 Bonar Bridge, 420 Beltie Burn, 336 — to Golspie, 424 Bemersyde, 17 Bemera, 383 Bonawe, 222 Ben A' an, 180, 345 Berriedale, 437 Bon Chonzie, 285 Aigen, 374 Bershuin, 405 Bo'ness, 141, 160 Alder, 299 Bervie, 320 Bonhill, 169 Water, 321 Bonjedward, 24 an-Tuirc, 200 Berwick-on-T\veed, 31 Bonnington Hill, 144 Arthur, 218 — — Linn, 90 Attow, 399, 412 Law, North, 38 Bonnybridge Junct. Stat., Becula, 396 Berwickshire, 34 148 Bhuie, 220 Bettyhill of Farr, 441 Bonnyrigg, 126 Braghie, 421 Bilbster Stat., 435 Border Country, 68 Bui% 226, 230, 238 Biel, 36 Bordland Rings, 130 Chroan, 280 Big House, 441 Borgie Castle, 442 Cleack, 270 Biggar, 74 river, 442 Clibrech, 441, 442 Bigswell, 451 Borradale, 244 Creachbeinn, 238 Binn End Hills, 256 Borrowstounness, 141, 160 Cruachan, 214, 221 Binscarth, 451 Borthwick Castle, 20 Derig, 425 Binns, 139 Hall, 20 Doa, 226 Birkhall, 329 Water, 11 Eay, 406 Birkhill, 78 Boswell's Green, St., 14 Eigen, 402, 425 Bimam Hill, 293, 294 Bothwell, 84 Evachart, 427 Birnie Kirk, 364 Bridge, 85 Eveian, Loch, 423 Stack, 334 Castle, 84, 88 Gherrig, 290 Birsay Palace, 453 Boturich Castle, 170 Birse Forest, 334 Bowhill, 76 Bishopton, 199 Bowland, 19 Hee, 429, 443 Blabhein, 389, 393 Bowling, 166 Hiant, 232 Blacksboat, 374 Bowmore, 206 Hope, 442, 443 Black Craig Castle, 348 Boyndie Ch., 373 Laoghal, 440, 442 Blackford Hill, 67 Boyne Castle, 372 Lairg, 405 . Stat., 275 Braan, river, 294 Lawers, 281 Blackball, 336 Bracadale, 388 Ledi, 179 Blackhouse Tower, 77 Bracklinn Falls, 177 Leod, 429 Black Isle, 414 Braemar, 329 Lomond, 171 Blackmount Forest, 226 Castle, 340 Loyal, 440, 442 Lui, 226 Blackness, 141 to Aviemore, 342 Black Spout, 295 to Blair- Athole, 349 462 INDEX. BRAEMAR. CAIRN SKREEL. CARHAM. Braemar to Dunkeld and Plt- Broughton, 74 Cairn Taggart, 342 lochrie, 347 Broughty Castle, 265, 307 Cairntable, 99 to Strathspey, 338 Ferry, 265, 307 Cairntoul, 346 Braemore, 425 Brown, Dr. T., 104 Cairnwell, 347 Braeriach, 345 Broxbourne, 35 Cairn Valley, 98 Brager, 395 Braid Hills, 67 Bro.xburn Stat., 160 Caisteal Abheal, 196 Bruar Falls, 298 Caithness, Ord of, 436 Braidwood, 82 Bruce, Robert, 70, 115, 121, Paps of, 437 Brander, Pass of, 215, 222 161, 197, 222, 226, 269, 391 Calart, 228 rocks of, 222 death, 167 Calda House, 428 Branksome, 11 Brucklay, 352 Calder House, 73 Brawl Castle, 434 Brunstane Castle, 129 Brechin, 319 Brux, 356 West, Stat., 160 to Glen Shee (for pedes- Buccleuch, 80 Caldercrux Stat., 159 trians'), 329 Buchan, 357 Calderwood Castle, 88 to Baliater, by Edzell Buchaile Etive, 223, 227 Caledonian Canal, 247, 248 and Glenmark, 331 Buchanan House, 183 Forest, 87 to Banchorj^ 333 Buchanness promontory, 353 Railway, 68 Breda House, 356 Bucklyvie, 183 Callander, 176 Bredounie, 327 Buck of Cabrach, 357, 360 ^ — to Dunkeld, 278 Bressay Hills, 457 Buckie, 376 Gallantry, 249, 250 Bridge of Allan, 174 Callater Burn, 347 Balgie, 290 Bullers of Buchan, 353 Callendar, 147 Bunchrew, 417 Callernish standing-stones, Cally, 348 Bunessan, 251, 237 ^395 Burdiehouse, 127 Cally, III Dee, 109 Burghead, 365 Calve Isle, 232 Doune, 176 Burghs or Brochs, 18, 42, 457 Camasunary, 389, 393 Dun, 319 Burgie Castle, 365 Cambus Stat., 270 Dye, 334 Burn, 332 of the Vat, 337 Cambusdoon, 117 Earn, 266 Cambuskenneth, 143, 165 Garry, 296 Burnmouth, 32 Cambuslang, 83 Grudie, 404 Burns, Sir A., 320 Cambusmore, 176 Laggan, 247 Burns's Monument, 59, 92, Cambusnethan, 83, 88 118 Cameron Bridge Stat., 258 Nethv, 302 house, 92 Col, 243 Poldiillle, 358 birthplace, 117 House, 170 Roy, 245 Burntisland, 140, 256 Campbell, Lord-Chan., 261 — — Tay Railway, 305 Burrswark, 69 Campbeltown, 200 Tummel Inn, 296 Burse Castle, 332 to Tarbet, 202 Waith, 453 B7de, island of, 210 Camperdown, 304 Camps Castle, 274 Bridgend, 19, 206 Buxburn, 351 Campsie, 148 Briech Stat., 160 Byron, Lord, 323, 325, 337, Fells, 149 Brig 0' Balgownie, 325 338. 343 Hills, 183 Doon, 118 Linn, 292 Turk, 178, 280 Cambus Stat., 270 Brims, 440 Canisp, 428 Brisbane, 191 c Canna Island, 382 Broadford, 384, 389 Cannlch, river, 422 Broadlaw, 78 Cadzow, Castle of, 87 Canobie, 8 Broadmeadows, 76 Caenlochan, Corrj'^ of, 331 Canty Bay, 38 Brochal Castle, 392 Caerlaverock Castle, 94 Cantyre, Mull of, 202 Brodick, 192, 194 Caerlee Fort, 132 Cape Wrath, 445 Castle, 194 Cailliach Point, 232 Capel Mount, 328 Brodie, 367 Caimbulg Castle," 352 Capernock, 98 Brogar, 452 Cairn Bannock, 329 Capon Tree, 24 Broich Farm, 284 Cairnburg, 233 Cara: Island, 203 Brooch of Lorn, 224 Cairndow, 219 Carabost, 388, 389 Broomhall, 141, 269 Cairngorm, 344 Carberry Hill, 41 Broomhill Stat., 302 Cairnies, 288 Cardenden, 267 Broomlee Stat., 129, 130 Cairnmount, 334 Cardoness, 11 t Brora, 432 Cairn-na-beast, 425 Cardrona, 132 Brothock Valley, 310 Cairn-na-cuimhne, 340 Cardross, 167, 189 Brough Lodge, 457 Caimsmoor of Fleet, 104 Cargill, 315 Brougham, Lord, 64 Cairn Skreel, iii Carham Stat., 27 INDEX. 463 CARLETON. CLOUSTON. CORRYBOROUGH. Carleton Castle, 112 Castle Roy, 302 Clova, 327, 329 Carlingwark Loch, 102 Sneb of, 327 Carlisle, 7 Spiritual, 252 Clovenfords Stat., 132 to Edinburgh, 7 Stewart, 368 Clunie Inn, 398 to Glasgow or Stirling, Swen, 212 Clunes Stat., 417 68 Tyrim, 244, 383 Clunskeid, 348 to Glasgow, 81, 90 Varich, 440 Cluny Castle, 247 ; (in Aber- Carloway, 395 deen), 355 Carlowrie, 144 Castleton, 439 Carluke, 82 of Braemar, 340 Clyde, river, 72, 82, 150, 156, Carmylie Manse, 309 Catacol, 196 166 Carnassarj', 214 Catertuns in Strathmore, 330 descent of, 187 Carnbane, 289 St. Catherine's, 216 ; Ferry, Falls of, 81, 89 Carnoustie, 307 219 Clydeville, 89 Carnwath, 73 Cathkin Hills, 158 Coaches, [13] Carolside, 30 Catrail, 10, 19 Coal and Iron, [24] Caroy, 388 Catrine, 99 Coatbridge, 83, 160 Carple, river, 104 Catstane, 144 Cobbler, 218 Carradale, 198 Cattle, wild, 88 Cock of Arran, ig6 Carral Rock, 433 Cauldron Linn, 272 Cockburnspath, 34 Carrick, 114 Cauldshiels Hill, 19 Cockpen, 21 Castle, 217 Causeway Head, 269 Coil, river, 118 Carron Bridge, 98 Cavers House, 12 Coilantogle, 177 Stat., 374 Cawdor Castle, 368 Coilsfield, 119 Loch, 407 Chalmers, Dr.,E259 Coldingham, 33 Water, 161 Champfleurie Park, 144 Coldstream, 27 Works, 147 Chapel of Garioch, 359 Guards, 27 Carsaig, 230, 238 Charies Edward, Prince, 55, Cole Castle, 433 Carse of Gowne, 267 92, 162, 243, 244, 299, 317, Colinsburgh, 258 Carskay, 202 368, 369, 383, 3S5 Colinton, 67 Carslouth Castle, in Charleston, 141 Colintraive, 211 Carsphairn, 104 Chatelherault, 87 Colledge Water, 27 Carstairs, 73 Chenzie Island, 206 Colessie Stat., 265 to Edinburgh, 73 Chesters, 14, 19 Colliston Stat., 310 Junct., to Glasgow, 81 ChesthiU, 289 Colmonell, 112 Cart, river, 189 Chiefswood, 17 Coloners Bed, 343 Carterhaugh, 80 Chirnside, 31 Colonsay, 208 Cartland Crags, 89 Chisholm's Pass, 423 Colquhonny Castle, 357 Cashel Dhu, 443 Christ's Kirk, 360 Coltness, 83 Cassilis, 116 Circles, stone, 210, 281, 437 Combra Castle, 289, 290 Cassley river, 426 Clachan, 1Q7, 204 Comlongon Castle, 91 Castel-na-loire, 246 of Aberfoyle, 173 Compstone, 109 Castle Ardstinchar, 112 Clach a' Koln, 224 Comrie, 286 of Braemar, 340 Clachie, 228 Castle, 289 Brahan, 417 Clach-na-harry, 248, 417 Cona, river, 227 Campbell, 143, 270 Clackmannan, 142 Connel Ferry, 223 ; sea cata- Gary, 148 • Craig, 130 Cladich, 215, 220 ract, 223 Clarkston, 159 Conon, 417 of Dee, 337 Clashcarnach, 445 Contin Inn, 402 Clashmore Inn, 424 Coollin Hills, 388, 392 to Kirkcudbright, Clatchard Craig, 266 Copansey Island, 447 109 Clattering Brig, 333 Corbelly Hill, 102 Eilean Donan, 400 Clava Plain, 414 Corbie Den, 335 Forbes, 355 Stones, 370 Corgarff Castle, 338, 358 Eraser, 354 Claverhouse, 305 Corncockle, 71 Girnigo, 436 Cleghorn, 81 Cornhill Stat, 27, 375 Cleish Hills, 267 Corpach, 240, 242 Hill, 197 Corra, 102 Huntly, 304 Clett, the, 434 Linn, 90 Cloch Light, 191 Corrichie, 336 Leod, 402 Clochmaben, 334 Corrie, 195 Loch, 70 Clochbriggs, 318 Corrie-an-Lachan, 196 Menzies, 283 Closeburn Castle, 97 Corriemuckloch, 288 Moil, 384 Hall, 97 Corrie's Linn, 130 of Park, 108 Stat, 97 Corryarrick, 247 Quha, 89 Clouston, 453 Corryborough Bridge, 366 464 INDEX. CORRYMULZIE. Corrymulzie Falls, 343 Corryvarligen Pass, 398, 399 Corryvrechan, Gulf of, 208 Corse Castle, 355 Corsewall, 112 Corstorphine Hill, 138 Stat., 144 Cortachy, 326 Coruisk, 392 Coulbeg, 427 Coul Castle, 356 Coulmore, 427 Coulport, 217 Coulter Stat., 74 Couthalley Castle, 73 Courthill, 407 Cove, 217, 322 Cowal Hills, 211 Cowdenbeath Junct., 267 Cowdenknowes, 30 Cowie, Old Kirk, 321 Cowlairs, 149 Co.xton, 363 Cragan Righ, 224 Craig Alvie, 301 Craig-an-darrach, 337 Craig Boestock, 333 Craigcafifie Castle, 112 Craig Cluny, 340 Craigcrook, 138 Craig Dhu, 247 Craigellachie, 361, 374 Junct. to.BanfF, 375 Craighall, 34B Craigievar Castle, 355 Craig Inn, 404 Craigleith Quarry, 138 Craigmillar Castle, 66 Craig Monach, 283 Craig Nair, 102 Craig-na-Phithick, 250 Craignethan, 82, 88 Craignish Castle, 213 Craigo Stat., 320 Craig Phadrick, 414 Craigrownie, 217 Craigstone, 372 Craig Youzie, 339 Craigie Burn, 78 ; Hall, 138 Craig-y-barns, 294 Cramond Bridge, 138 Craske, 441 Crathes, 335 Crathie, 339 Craufordland, loi Crawford, 72 Prior>', 261 Cray, 347 Cree, river, 104, 105 Creetown, 104 Creich, 424 Crianlarich, 225 Crichton Castle, 20 Crickhope Linn, 97 Crieff, 284 DALMAGAVIE. CriefF to Aberfeldy, 288 Criffel, 95 Crinan, 212 Canal, 212 Cringletie, 130 Crochmoy Beacon, 202 Croihreikdun, 442 Cromarty, 415 Crombie Point, 141 Cromdale, 374 Crook Inn, 74 of Devon, 272 Crookston, 19 ; castle, 124 Crossgates, 267 Crosslee Stat., 199 Crossmichael Stat., 103 Crossraguel, 114 Croy Stat., 148 Cruachan, Ben, 214, 221 Cruggleton Castle, 106 Crushnacraig Point, 238 Cuan, Sound of, 213 Cuchullin or Coollin Hills, 380 Culben, sands of, 367 Culbleen, 337 Culdees Castle, 284 Culhorn, 108 Culivie, 423 Culkein, 428 Cullen, 376 — — Binn of, 376 Culloden, 368 Moor, 414 Culross, 141 Abbey, 142 Culter, 335 Cults, 261, 334 Culzean Castle, 115 Cumbernauld, 161 Cumbrae Islands, 192 Cumloden, 105 Cummertrees, 91 Cumnock, New, 99 Old, 99 Cupar, 261 Angus, 315, 316" Currie Stat., 73 Curriehill, 73 Cushieville, 289, 290 Dailly, 113 Dairsie, 261 Dalavaddy, 202 Dalbeattie, 102 ; granite quarries, 102 Dalcross, 368 Dalgetty, 141 Dalguise, 295 Dalhousie, 21 Dalkeith Palace, 125 Stat., 124 Dalmagavie Dell, 367 DINGWALL. Dalmahoy, 73 Dalmally, 221 Dalmellington, 119 Dalmeny, 138, 141 Dalmuir, 166 Dalnacardoch, 291, 299 Dalnaspidal Stat., 299 Dalpersie, 355 Dalpowie House, 292 Dalquharn, 169 Dalquharran, 13 Castle, 113 Dalreoch, 168 Dalrigh, 226 Dalrulzian, 347 Dairy, loi, 122 Dalrj'mple, 116 Dalswinton, 96 Dalvey, 367 Dalwhinnie, 299 Dalwick, 74 Dalziel, 83, 88 Damsey, 451 Danaglar, 347 Darnaway Castle, 367 Darnhall, 130 Darnick Tower, 17 Darnley, 54, 55, 58, 258 Dava Stat., 302 Davar Island, 200 Dean Castle, loi Deanston, 176 Debateable ground, 68 Dee, river, 103, 109, 340 source, 334 Wells of, 344, 346 Deer forests, 313, 341, 350 Deerness, 447 Deer Sound, 447 Delny Stat., 419 Deloraine, 80 Denburn Valley, 323 Den of Airlie, 316 357 Kildrummie, Finella, 320 Mains, 305 Denholm, 12 Denny, 161 Dess Stat., 336 Deveron, river, 360, 372 Devil's Beef Tub, 79 Cauldron, 210, 286 Dyke, 98 Elbow, 347 Mill, 271 Pulpit, 183 Staircase, 226 Devon, river, 270, 271 Devon Valley Railway, 269 Dhu Heartache Lighthouse, 237 Dhu, Loch, 342, 392 Diabag, 406 Dimsdale, 383 Dingwall, 418 INDEX. 465 DINGWALL. Dingwall to Strome Ferry and Skye (Railway), 401 to Ullapool, 425 Dinnet, Moor of, 336 Stat, 336 Dinwoodie Stat., 71 Dippin rocks, 198 Dirie More, 425 Dirk Hatteraicic's Cave, 11 1 Dirleton Castle, 37 Dirnanean, 348 Divie, river, 303, 366 Dob's Linn, 78 Dochart, river, 226 Dochfour, Loch, 252 Dog's Ferry, 229 Dog Hillock, 330 Dollar, 270 Dolmen, 196 Dolphinton, 130 Don, river, 355 Donibristle, 141, 257 Doon river, 116, 118, 119 Doonholme, 118 Dornie, 400 Dornoch, 424 ; stat, 91 Firth, 420 Douanie, 326 Douglas Castle, 81 Archibald, " Bell-the- Cat," 19 Catherine, 276 Doune Castle, 176 Stat., 176 Dowalton, Loch, 106 Drem Stat., 37 to North Berwick, 37 Drimsynie, 217 Drochil, 75, 130 Dron Chapel, 304 ^^Fall, 274 Druim, 422 Chat, 401 Drum, 335 Drumclog, 100 Drumcoltran, 102 Drumfin, 232 Drumgowdrum, 356 Drumlanrig, 97 Drumlithie, 321 Drumloch, 335 Drammelzier, 74 Drummond Castle, 285 Hill, 281, 289 Drummore, 109 Drummossie RIoor, 369 Drumouchter, 299 Drummox, 104 Drummuir Stat., 375 Drumnadrochit, 251 Inn, 252 Drumtochty, 327 Dryburgh, 13 Abbey, 13 House, 13 DUNKELD. DryfFe Water, 71 Dryhope, 77 Drymen, 183 Duart, 230 Dubton Junct, 320 Duddingstone, 55 Duff House, 372 Dufftown, 375 Dugary, 196 Duholme, 448 Duich, Loch, 399 Dulnain, river, 302 forest, 302 Dulsie Bridge, 366 Dumbarton, 166, 189 to Helensburgh and Gareloch, 167 Dumbuck, hill of, 189 Dumfries, 92 House, 99 to Portpatrick, loi Dun o' Deer, 360 Dunadd, 212 Dunaquoich, 219, 220 Dunaverty, 201 Dunbar, 35 Dunbeath, 437 Water, 437 Dunblane, 175 Dunbuy of Slaines, 353 Duncansbay Head, 413 Dun Craig, 385, 403 Dun Creich, 414 Duncrub, 275 Dundagu, 230 Dun-da-lair, 247 Dundas Castle, 139, 141 Dundee, 265, 305 ; old steeple, 305 ; people's parks, 306 ; jute mills, 306 ; marmalade, 306 ; steamers, railways, 307 Dunderawe, 219 Dundochil Island, 174 Dundonachie, 294 Dundonald Castle, 120 Dundonnell Hills, 426 Dun Domadill, 443 Dundrennan, no Dune of Invernochty, 358 Dunecht, 335 Dunfermline, 267 ; Abbey, 268 Dunfillan, 286 Dun Foin, 423 Dunglass, 35 ; on Clyde, 166 Dungoil Fort, 210 Dun, I., 237 Dunie, 412 Dunimarle Castle, 142 Dunion, 24 Dunipace, 161 Dunira, 286 Dunjardil, 242 DuNKELD, 293 to Pitlochrie, 295 EDEN. Dunlop, loi ; cheeses, loi Dun Macsniochan, 239 Dunmore, 142 Dunmyat Hill, 175, 269 Dunnet Head, 439 Dunnikier Den, 257 House, 258 Law, 258 Dunning, 275 Dunolly Castle, 224 Dunoon, 209, 216 Dunnottar, 321 Dunphail, 303, 366 Dunragit, 108 Dun Reay, 440 Dunrobin, 431 Dunse, 30 Dunsinane, 303 Dunskeig Hill, 204 Dunskey Castle, 109 Dunstaffnage, 223 Duntocher, 189 Duntreath, 183 Duntroon, 213 Duntulm, 387 Dunure Castle, 114 Dunvegan, 388 Dupplin Castle, 276 Dura Den, 261 Durie House, 258 Durinear, 407 Durinish, 388 Durisdeer, 97 Durness, 431, 444 Durris House, 335 Dusk water, loi Dwarfie Stone, 454 Dyce Junct., 351 Dye Valley, 334 Dysart, 257 E Eardle River, 348 Earl's Hall, 262 Eari's Mill Stat., 375 Earlston, 30 Earn Bridge, 266 Loch, 286 River, 267, 285 Easdale, 213 Eassie Stat., 316 East Fortune Stat., 37 Eastgrange Stat., 269 East Haven, 307 Easter Lomond Hill, 260 Eathie Bum, 415 Ecclefechan, 69 Echaig, river, 216 Echt, 335 Eck, Loch, 216 Eckford, 23 Edderton, 420 Eddlestone, 130 Eden, river, 90, 274 466 INDEX. EDGERSTONE. EWES WATER. FINHAVON. Edgerstone, 24 Edinburgh or Carstairs to Ey, river, 343 Edrachalda, 428 Stirling, 161 Eyemouth, 33 Edixburgh, 42, 44 ; Advo- Edinample, 280 cates' Library, 51 ; Arthur's Edinchip, 280 Seat, 56 ; Botanic Garden, Edinkillie, 303 F 65 ; cab fares, 43 : Calton Edinshall, 31 Hill, 59 ; Canongate, 53 ; Edmonstone, 125 Faile, river, 119, Castle, 45-47 ; Castle Hill, Ednam, 27 Fair Isle, 455 47 ; city cross, 51 ; coach- Edrachillis, 291, 430 Fairfield, 189 office, 43 ; Corn Exchange, Edramuckie, 281 Fairlie, 192 48 ; County Hall, 48 ; Edrom, 31 Falar, 350 Cowgate, 56 ; Crown Edward I., 145, 163, 268 Falkirk, 147 Room, 47 ; Dean Bridge, Edzell, 331 ; Castle, 331 Falkland, 260 63 ; Donaldson's Hospital, Eggerness Castle, 106 Fallen rocks, 195 63 ; Royal Exchange, 52 ; Excursions, 65 ; Fettes Egilshey, 454 Falls of Clyde, 81, 89 Eglinton, 121 College, 63 ; Free Assem- Eigg, Scuir of, 232, 381 Fender, 351 bly Hall, 47; St. Giles' Eildon Hall, 12 ; Hills, 12 Foyers, 251, 414 Church, 49 : Granton, 66 ; Eilean Donan, 400 ; Fiannan, Garry, 296 Garrawalt, 340 Grassmarket, 48 ; Grey- 244 friars Church, 56 ; Heriot's Geng, 211 Hospital, 57 ; High School, Maree, 405 Glomach, 399 59 ; history, 45, 64 ; Holy- Mor, 212 Kilmorak, 340, 417 rood Abbey, 54 ; Holyrood Stacker, 239 Kirkaigh, 428 Palace, 54 ; hospitals, 57, Elcho Castle, 303 Moness, 283 137 ; hotels, 43 ; Lawn- Eldershe, 123, 189 Moriston, 250 market, 48 ; Leith, 65 ; Elgin, 362 libraries, 51 ; meadows. Elibank, 132 Farnell Road Stat., 319 58 ; Mons Meg, 46 ; Mo- EHe, 258 Farland, White, 196 ray House, 53 ; mound, Eliock, 98 Farout Head, 444 60 ; museum, 58, 61 ; Na- Ellen's Isle, 181 Farrachel Hill, 283 tional Gallery, 62 ; emi- EUisland, 96 Farragon Mount, 291 nent natives, 64 ; Nether Elliston, 123 Farrar, river, 422 Bow, 51 ; Newhaven, 61 ; Ellon, 352 Fasque, 333 New Town, 59 ; North Elvanfoot, 72 Fashven, 445 Loch, 45 ; Old Town, 45 ; Elwick, 448 Faskally, 295, 296 Parliament House, 50 ; Embo, 424 Fasnakyle, 423 population, 45 ; post-office. Endiart, river, 350 Fast Castle, 34 60; Princes Street Gar- Endrick water, 70, 183 Fassifern, 243 dens, 62 ; Queen's Drive, Enzie, 376 Fassney water, 31 56 ; Queen Margaret's Erchless, 422 Fatlips Castle, 72 Chapel, 46 ; Queen Mary's Ercildoun, Thomas of, 30 Fauldhouse Stat., 160 apartments, 47, 55; Queens- Eredine, 214 Fearn, 416 berry House, 53 ; railway EriboU, 443 Fenwick, loi stations, 43 ; register office. Ericht, river, 291, 348 Feochan, 213 59 ; Royal Institution. 60 ; Erick's Steps, 455 Feonochan Castle, 214 Salisbury Crags, 56 ; Scott Errol, 303 Erskine House, 166 Ferintosh, 418 Monument, 60 ; Signet Ferness, 366 Library, 51 ; site, 44 ; Esk river, 7, 42, 68, 129, Femihurst, 24 steamers, 43 ; theatre, 64 ; 320, 329, 333 Ferntower, 285 Tolbooth, 49 ; Tron Ch., Eskadale, 422 Ferrj^den, 310 52 ; University, 58 ; Vic- Eskbank Junct., 21 Fetlar, 457 toria Hall, 48 ; walks Stat., 126 Fettercaim, 333 through Edinburgh, 43 ; Essachosan Glen, 220 Fetternear, 354 Watson's Hospital, 58 ; Essiemore, 198 Feugh water, 332, 334 West Bow, 48 ; White Esslemont, 352 Fifeshire, 256 Horse Close, 53 Etive, Loch, 223 Fillans, St., 226; on Loch Edinburgh to Dundee, 256 Bay, 210 Earn, 286 Bridge, 80 Findhorn, 365 and Stirling, 267 House, 80 river, 303, 367 to Galashiels, 125 Ettichan water, 344 Findlater Castle, 376 to Glasgow, 144 Ettrick, river, 75, 80 Findon or Finnan, 322 by Mid-Calder, Evan, river, 71 Finella Hill, 333 160 Evanton, 418 Fingal's Cave, 233 to Perth, 265 Evelaw, 30 Fingask Castle, 303 to Stirling, 140 Ewes Water, 8 Finhavon, 318, 326 INDEX. 467 FINLAGAN. Finlagan, Loch, 206 Finlarig, 281 Finlayston, i8g Finnart Bay, 112, Finnich Glen, 183 Finstown, 451 Fintry Hills, 183 Fisherrovv, 42 Fishie, river, 350 Fitfiel or Fitful Head, 455 Fladda Island, 233 Fleet, Mound of, 421, 425 Flodden Field, 28 Floors, 25, 26 Flora Macdonald, 387 Florestan Stat., 68 Flowerdale, 405 Fochabers, 361, 376 Foinhabhen, 429, 431 Ford, 214 Fordoun, 321 Forest Lodge, 350 Forfar, 318 Forgandenny, 276 Forglen, 372 Forres, 303, 365 Forrestfield Stat., 159 Forse, 440 to Inverness, 367 Forsinard Stat., 433 Fort-Augustus, 250 to Skye, 397 Charlotte, 455 George, 368 Teviot, 275 William, 229, 239 to Arsaig, 242 to Kingussie, 245 Forter Castle, 331, 347 Forteviot, 275 Forth and Clyde Canal, 166, i8g; Junct. Rly., 182 Forth, Firth of, 139, Links of, 143 Fortingal, 289 Fortrose, 415 Forvie, 353 Foudland Hills, 360 FouHs Wester,: 287 Foulsheugh, 321 Foulshiels, 76 Fountains Hall Stat., 20 Fowlis Castle, 418 Easter Church, 304 Foyers, Falls of, 251, 414 Fraserburgh, 352 Freswick, 447 Freshwick, 438 Friars Carse, 96 Fullarton House, 120 Furnace, 220 Fushie Bridge, 21 Fyne Loch, 204, 211 Fyrish, Hill of, 419 Fyvie Castle, 371 Stat., 37 GIGHA. Gadgirth, 118 Gaelic names explained, [48] Gairloch, 405 ; Inn, 405 Gairlochy, 249 Gairnie, river, 271 Gairnshiel, 338 Gala House, 19 Water, 19, 119 Galashiels, 19 to Moffat, 75 Gallenach House, 213 Gallon Head, 394 Galloway, 103 Bum, 112 House, 106 New, 103 Galston, 100 Gamescleuch, 80 Gannochy bridge, 332 Garachary, river, 346 Gardyne Castle, 319 Gareloch Head, 168 Gargunnock, 182 Garioch, 359 Gariveilan, 394 Garleton Hills, 39 Garlic's Castle, 105 Garlieston, 106 Garnkirk, 83, 160 Garrawalt Falls, 340 Garrison, the, 192 Garry, river, 192, 296 Falls of, 296 Garry-na-hine, 395 Garsbheinn, 391 Garscube, 165 Gartcosh, 83, 160 Garth Ceistle, 289, 290 Garthland Tower, log - -■ Gartly, 360 Gartmore, 173 Gartness Stat., 183 Gartsherrie, 83, 160 Garvald, 130 Garve, 402 Gatehouse-of-Fleet, iii Gattonside, 17 Gaudy, river, 360 Gauer, river, 291 Geauly, river, 350 Gelder, river, 340 Geldy, river, 350 Gelston, 102 General's Bridge, 74 Genock, 108 Geology, [21] Georgemus Junct. Stat., 434 Geusachan, river, 346, 423 Geysen Briggs, 420 Giant's Colonnade, 234 Grave, 78 Gififard Castle, 40 Gigha Island, 203 GLEN. Gight, 352, 371 Gigulum, Islet of, 203 Gilmerton, 288 Gilnockie, 8 Girnigo, 436 Girvan, 113 Water, 113 Gladsmuir, 40 Gladswood, 17 Glamaig, 392 Glamis, Castle, 316 Glascarnoch, "425 Glasgow, 149 ; Argyle Street, i^^o ; Broomielaw, 156 ; artificial ice, 157 : cathedral, 151-153 ; chemi- cal works, 157 ; Clyde, 156; crypt, 152; docks, 156; Exchange, 154 ; Excur- sions, 149 ; Gallery of Art, 154 ; green, 154 ; history, 157 ; hotels, 149 ; Hutcheson's Hospital, 155 ; manufactures, 157 ; mu- seum, 155 ; Napier's Works, 157 ; necropolis, 153 ; population, 150 ; post-office, 150 ; railways, 158 ; railway termini, 149 ; Saltmarket, 154 ; schools, 156 ; shipbuilding yards, 156; site, 150; steamers, 158 ; Tron steeple, 153 ; Turkey-red dyeing, 157 ; Universities, 155, 156 ; Ca- thedral, 151 ; the Crj'pt, 152 ; stained glass, 153 ; churchyard, 153 to Bothwell, Hamilton, Lanark, and Falls of the Clyde, 83 to Campbeltown and Cantyre, 199 to Edinburgh by Airdrie and Bathgate, 158 to Greenock and We- myss Bay, 199 to Inveraray, 215, 217 to Isla and Jura, 204 to Loch Lomond and Tarbet, 165 to Oban, 209 Glasmeal, 347 Glass, river, 423 Glassel, 336 Glasserton, 107 Glasven, 430 Glazert water, 148 Glen AiTrick, 251, 423 Airlie, 316 Almond College, 287 Alva, 270 App, 112 Aray, 220 Arvie, 201 Ashdale, 198 468 INDEX. GLEN. Glen Avon, 358 Baddoch, 347 Ballagan, 184 bar Abbey, 203 Beg, 347, 400 Breckay, 202 Brerechan, 348 bucket, river, 357 ; Castle, 357 Buckie, 280 Callater, 341 Gaily, 328, 331 Camagorie, 243 Campsie, 148 Cannich, 422 Caple, 94 Carron, 402 carse, 303 Cashick, 178 Clova, 328 Clunie, 341 . coe, 226 ; massacre of, 228 Conrjs 358 Corry, 343 corse, 67 creggan, 203 croe, 218 Dee, 346, 349 Derrie, 344 Dessarj', 243 Dochart, 225, 404 Doel, 327 • Doin, 215 eagles, 275 Eardle, 348 Effock, 332 Einig, 427 Elchaig, 399 elg, 383, 400 Esk, 42 Ey, 343 Falloch, 225 farg, 274 Farigaig, 251 fee, 328 Fernate, 348 femess, 366 feshie, 300, 350 fiddich, 357, 375 Fincastle, 296 finlas, 171, 178, 280 finnan, 243 Finnart, 217 Finnich, 183 fruin, 168, 171 Fumess, 303 Furraied, 245 Fyne, 219 garry, 250, 397 gelder, 340 grudie, 404 gy\e, 181 House, 132 iffer, 124 GOREBRIDGE. Glen lorsa, 196 Isla, 330, 375 Ken, 103 Kilrie, 347 kindie, 357 kinglass, 219 lee, 103 livat, 374, 375 lochy, 347 loth, 433 luce Stat., 107 Lui, 346 Luing, 398 Lyon, 289 House, 289 Main, 178 manuilt, 202 mark, 333 IMonymore, 197 Mooran, 332 More, 347, 400 Moriston, 250 muich Falls, 426 Ness, 119 Nevis, 241, 242 Ogle, 280, 326 orchy, 221 prosen, 326, 330 Quolch, 342, 398 Rosa, 195 Roy, 245 Sannox, 195 Scorrisdale, 197 Shiel, 398 Shira, 219 Shiraig, 194 Souleach, 243 Spean, 246 Strae, 221 Strontian, 242 tanner, 333, 336 Tang>s 203 Tatnich, 347 Tig, 112 Tilt, 298, 350 Tinmont, 332 Torrisdale, 200 Tromie, 350 Truim, 299 Turrit, 285 Urquhart, 251 Glengarry's Bowling-Green. Glenormiston, 132 Glinggling Cave, 441 Glomach Falls, 399 Glorat, 148 Goatfell, 194 Gogar, 144 Goldielands, 11 Golspie, 425, 431 to Wick, 431 Gordon Arms Inn, 77 Gordon Castle, 361 Stat., 30 Gorebridge, 21 HARDMOOR. Gosford House, 39 Govan, 188 Gourock, 191 Gowrie Castle, 294 conspiracy, 288 Graemshall, 447 Graham's Dyke, 148 Grandtully, 284 Grange, 257 Junct., 361, 375 Lady, 397 Grangemouth, 141 Granite quarries, 354 Grant Castle, 302 Granton, 66, 256 Grantown, 302, 374 Grant's House Stat., 34 Gray House, 304 Great C umbrae, 192 Great Glen, 248 Greenhill Junct., 161 Greenlaw, 30 Greenloaning, 274 Geeenock, 190 Upper Stat., 159 Gretna Green, 90 Junct., 68 Grey Cairn, 348 Grey Mare's Tail,78, 104 Grieston, 132 Grudie, Bridge of, 404 Gualin, 431 Guardbridge, 262 Guay Stat., 295 Gulin Castle, 213 Gunsgreen, 33 Guthrie Castle, 319 Gyffen Castle, 122 Gyle, Loch, 233 Habbie's How, 68 Haddington, 40 Haddo House, 352 Hafton, 216 Hagg's Castle, 124 Hailes Castle, 36 Halbar Tower, 89 Halbeath, 267 Halidon Hill, 32 Halival, 382 Halkirk, 433 Hallforest Castle, 358 Hallgreen Castle, 320 Hallyards, 144 H.\MiLTON Palace, 85 Stat., 84 to Lanark and Falls of the Clyde, 88 Handa Island, 429 Hangingshaw, 77 Harburn Stat., 73 Harden, 11 Hardmoor, 367 INDEX. 469 HARKER. Marker, 7 Harland Hill, 436 Harlaw, 359 Harold's Tomb, 439 Harris, 395 Hart-a-Corrie, 392 Hartfell, 78 Hartfield, 217 Harthill Castle, 360 Hartrigge, 24 Harvieston, 270 Haskeval, 382 Hassendean, 12 Hatton, 73 Castle, 372 Havves Stat., 139 Hawick, 10 Hawthornden, 127 Heading Hill, 352 Hebrides, 393 Heights of Mountains, [30] Heilim Inn, 442 Helensburgh, 167, 190 Hell's Glen, 217 Helmsdale, 433 to Wick by the Ord of Caithness, 436 Hempriggs, 437 Henderland, 77, 130 Hendersyde, 27 Hensoll, 103 Herd, the, 445 Heriot Stat., 20 Water, 20 Hermitage, 9 Herrings, Loch Fyne, 220 Highbridge, 245 Highfield, 417 Highlandman Stat., 284 Hill of Aigas, 412 Cluny, 365 Cnoc, 205 Fare, 336 Fyrish, 419 Lonach, 358 Noth, 360 Ought, 327 Tulloch, 298 Hirsel, the, 28 Hoddam, 69, 91 Hogg, James, 81 Holbum Head, 434 Hole of Row, 453 Hollybush Stat., 119 Holme House, 104 Sound, 447 Holy Hill, 275 Isle, 198 Loch, 216 Town, 83, 160 Holyrood Palace, 54 Holywood, 96 Home of Dunbar, his monu- ment, 36 Hope, river, 442 Hopetoun House, 139 INVEREY. HomcHfF, 29 Horsburgh Castle, 132 Hospisdale, 424 Hospital, convaiescentjEdi burgh, 144 Glasgow, 148 Hourn, Loch, 383 House of Muir, 68 Stenniss, 452 Houston, C99 Howe of Fife, 260 Hoy, island of, 454 Hume Castle, 27, 30 Joseph, 320 Sir Patrick, 30 Huna, 438 Hunter, Drs. John and Wil- liam, 84 Huntingtower, 288 Huntley Burn, 18 Huntly, 360 Hurlford Junct, 100 I-Columb-Kill, 235 Imachar, 196 Inch, North, 276 South, 276 affray, 287 cailliach, 170 colm, 140 drewer Castle, 373 ewan Burn, 294 gar\'ie, 139 keith, 256 Kenneth, 233 Lonaig, 170 mahone, 172 Murrin, 170 ture Stat., 304 nadamff Inn, 427 och Tower, 367 Inellan, 209 Innerleithen, 132 Innerwick, 35, 290 Innis Chonel, 214 Innisfraoch, 215 Innish Errech, 214 Innishfail, 215 Insch, 360 Inns, [14] Inveramsay Junct., 359 Inveran, 421 Inveraman, 172, 225 Inveraray, 219 Inveraylort, 244 Invercannich, 422 Invercarron, 420 Invercauld, 340 Invercoe, 228 Invercroskie, 348I Inveresk Stat., 42 Invereven, 426 Inverey, 343 JOHNSTONE. Inverfarigaig, 251 Invergarry, 249 ; Castle, 307; House, 249 to Skye, 397 Invergelder, 340 Invergordon, 419 Invergowrie, 304 Inverie, 383 Inver Inn, 340 Inverinet, 399 Inverkeillor, 310 Inverkeithing, 140 Inverkip, 191 Inverlaal, 426 Inverlochy Castle, 240 Invermark Castle, 332 Invermay, 275 Invermoriston, 250 Invernahavon, 299 Inverness, 252, 370, 412 to Cromarty, 412 to Golspie and Helms- dale, 416 Invernochty, Dune of, 358 Inveroran, 226 Inverpefferan, 418 Inverquharity Castle, 318 Inversanda, 242 Invershin, 470 Inversnaid, 172, 174, 182 Invertrossachs, 178 Inverugie, 353 Inveruglas, 171 Inverury, 359 Inystrynlch, 215 Inzievar, 269 Zona, 235 Priory of Austin Nuns, 235 ; Maclean's Cross, 235 ; Cemetery, 235 ; Cathedral, 236 steamer, 209 Irongray Church, 94;: Irvine, 121 Isa, Isle of, 388 Isauld, 440 I slay, 204 Isle Ornsay, 383 James I., 276 James VI., 288 Jamestown, 184 Jardine Hall, 70 Jarlshof, 455 Jeantown, 403 Jedburgh, 23 Abbey, 23 Jed Water, 24 Jock's Ladder, 328 John-o'-Groat's House, 438 Johnson, Dr., 65, 120, 230, 238, 353. 389. 398 Johnstone, 123 470 INDEX. JORDANHILL. Jordanhill, 189 Jura, 207 ; Sound, 212 Kailzie, 132 Kaim of Mathers, 320 Kalemouth, 23 Kame of Hoy, 454 Karnes Castle, 210 Kair Mount, 329, 333 Katrine, Loch, 180, 181 Kearvaig Bay, 445 Keill House, 202 Keills, 212 Keir, 174 Hill, 119 Keiss, 438, 447 Keith Junct., 361, 375 Hall, 359 Marshall, 353 Kelbum Castle, 192 Kellerstain, 144 Kelso, 25 Abbey, 25 Keltie burn, 176 Kelvin Valley, 165 Kemnaj', 354 Ken, river, 103 Kenmore, 282 to Glencoe, 290 Kenmure Castle, 103 Kennageal, 443 Kennet, 142 Kennethmount, 360 Kerfield, 132 Kerrera Island, 213 Sound, 238 Kerrie, river, 405 Kerrisdale, 405 Kershope, 9 Kessock Ferrj', 414 Kiel's Den, 258 Kilbarchan, 123 Kilbirnie, 122 Kilbrannan Sound, 199 Kilbride, 192 Kilchenzie, 203 Kilchoman, 205 Kilchrist, 389 Kilchurn, 221 Kil Coivin, 202 Kilconquhar, 258 Kilcreggan, 217 Kilda, St., 396 Kildaloig, 201 Kildalton, 205 Kildonan, 198, 433 Kildmmmie, 356 Kilellan, 423 Kilgraston House, 266 Kilkerran, 113, 201 Killahonan, 291 Killean, 203 Killearn, 149 KINNEIL. Killeser, 109 Killiecrankie Pass, 296 Stat., 296 Killin, 280, 433 Killochan, 113 Killundine, 231 Kilywhan, 96, 102 Kilmahew, 167 Kilmahog, 177 Kilmalcolm, 199 Kilmall)', 240, 243 Kilmaree, 390 Kilmarnock, 100, 184 Kilmartin, 214 Kilmaurs, loi Kilmelfort, 212, 215 Kilmeny, 205 Kilmichael, 204 Glassary, 213 Lussa, 212 Kilmorack Falls, 417, 422 Kilmorie, 212 Kilmuir, 387 Kilmun, 216 Kilninver, 215 Kilpatrick, 189 Kilpurnie Hill, 166, 316 Kilravock, 368 Kilsvth, 148 Kilt 'Rock (Skye), 388 Kilwinning, 121 Kimmerghame, 30 Kinaldie, 358 Kinbrace Stat., 433 Kincaid, 148 Kincardine, 142 Castle, 275, 333 O'Neil, 336 Kincraig Stat., 300 Kinfauns, 303 King Edward Stat., 372 Kinghorn, 257 Kingoldrum, 326 Kingsburgh House, 386 King's Caves, 197 Cross, 198 King's House Inn, 226 (Strathyre), 279 Kingskettle Stat., 260 Kingsknowe Stat., 73 Kingswell, 120 Kingussie, 247, 300 Kinloch Aline, 231 Aylort, 244 Ewe, 404 House, 265 Lochy, 249 Luichart, 402 more Falls, 229 Moydart, 244 Rannoch, 291 Kinloss, 365 Kinmont House, gi Kinnaird, i5i, 319 House, 295 Kinneil, 141 KYLE OF TONGUE. Kinneswood, 273 Kinnordy, 318, 326 Kinnoul Hill, 303 Kinross, 272 Kintail, 399 Kintore, 358 Kintradwell, 433 Kintraw, 215 Kippen Stat., 183 Kippenross, 175 Kipps, 159 Kirkaig Falls, 428 Kirkbank Stat., 23 Kirkcaldy, 257 Kirkcolm, 112 Kirkconnell, 69. 95 Stat., 98 Kirkcowan, 107 Kirkcudbright, 109 Slewartry, 103, 110 Kirkdale House, 112 Kirkfieldbank, 89 Kirkgunzeon, 102 Kirkiboll, 442 Kirkintilloch, 148 Kirklands, 14 Kirkliston, 138, 144 Kirkmabreck, 104 Kirkmaiden, 108 Kirkmichael, 348 Kirkness, 106 Kirknewton Junct., 73 Kirk o' Field, 58 Kirkoswald, 115 Kirkpatrick, 69 Kirkton Hill, 320 Kirkwall, 448 ; Cathedral, 449 ; Bishop's Palace, 449 Kirn, 216 Kirnan, 213 Kirriemuir, 318 to Ballater and Brae- mar by Glen Clova, 326 Kirrouchtree, 105 Kirtle Bridge Stat., 69 water, 69, 91 Kisamul, 396 Kittj'brewster, 351 Knapdale, 207 Knock Castle, 191, 383 Stat., 375 of Brae Moray, 303 Derry, 217 of Crieff, 285 Knockdolian, 112 Knockfarril, 401 Knox, John, birthplace, 40 Knoydart, 383 Kyle Akin, 384, 400 of Bute, 191, 210 Durness, 444 Rhea, 383, 384 Skou, 430 of Tongue, 440 INDEX. 471 LADDER. Ladder, the, 333 Ladybank Junct., 260 Lady Kirk, 29 Lady's Cave, 309 Rock, 230 Lag, 98 Lagg, 207 Laggan, 249 river, 206 Lagg Bay, 382 Laigland Wood, 118 Lairg, 420 to Loch Inver and Durness, 426 to Durness, by Loch Shin and Scourie, 429 to Tongue, 499 Lairs hill, 148 Lake Dwellings, 106, 245 Lamancha, 129 Lamberton, 32 Lamington, 72 Lamlash, 198 Lammermoor Hills, 34 Lanark, 81, 89 New, 89 Langalchorid, 210 Langholm, 8 Lodge, 8 Lang Straight, 333 Langside, battlefield of, 158 Langloan Ironworks, i6o Langton House, 31 Langwell, 437 Lanrick, 176 Mead, 178 Larbert, 161 Largie, 203 Largo, 258 Law, 258 Largs, 191 Larig Rue Pass, 343, 346 Larne, 108 Lasswade, 126 Latheron, 437 Lauder, 19 Laurencekirk, 321 Lauriston, 140 Stat., 320 Lawers, 286 Inn, 281 Laxford Bridge, 429 river, 429 Leadburn Junct., 129 Leaderfoot, 17 river, 19 Leadhills, 72 Leaf Beds of Mull, 231, 237 Learmouth, 27 Ledard Falls, 174 Ledbeg, 427 Ledmore, 427 LIVINGSTONE. Lednoch, Falls of, 286 Lee House, 82 Penny, 82 Leecroft Church, 174 Lees, 28 Leighton, Bp., 175 Leith, 65 Leithen Water, 132 Lendalfoot, 112 Lennel House, 28 Lennox Castle, 148, 170 Tower, 73 Lennoxlove, 40 Lennoxtown, 148 Lentran Stat., 417 Leny Pass, 278 Lenzie Junct. Stat., 148 Lerwick, 455 Leslie, 259 Gen., 34, 202, 259 House, 259 Castle, 360 Lesmahagow, 90 Lesser Cumbrae, 192 Lessuden, 14 Lethnot, 330 Letterewe, 404 Leuchars, 261 Levan Castle, 191 Leven, Loch, 229, 272 ; river, 166, 169 Stat., 258 Lewis or Lews, 394 Butt of, 395 Leyden, John, birthplace, 12 Leysmill Stat., 310 Lhanbryde, 362 Liberton, 67 Liddell, 9 Castle, 9 Liddesdale, 9 Likelyhead, 360 Lillyard's Edge, 14 Limecraigs, 201 Limekilns, 141 Linassie Bridge, 399 Lincluden, 93 Lindean Stat., 75 Linden House, 25S Lindisfarne, 32 Lindores, 265 Lineside Stat., 7 Linhouse Burn, 73 Links of Forth, 143 Linlithgow, 145 Linn of Dee, 343, 344 Quoich, 342 Ruthrie, 374 Linthaughlee Burn, 24 Linton, 26 West, Stat., 36, 129 Lion's Face, 340 Lismore, 230, 238 Littledean Tower, 22 Little Loch Broom, 425 Livingstone Stat., 160 LOCH. Livingstone, David, place of, 84 Lix, 225, 280 Loannan, river, 427 Lochaber, 248 Loch A'an, 345 Acheltie, 402 Achray, 178 Affrick, 423 Ainort, 392 Aligan, 214 Aline, 231 Alsh, 383, 400 Alvie, 301 an-Dorbh, 303 an-Eilan, 301 an-Head, 102 an-Neain, 342 arbriggs, 71 Ard,i73 Arkaig, 243, 245 Arklet, 182 Assynt, 427 Auchall, 427 Avich, 215 Avon, 545 Awe, 214, 427 Aj-lort, 244 Beneveian, 423 Boisdale, 396 Borrolan, 427 Brandy, 327 Broom, 425 Brora, 432 Butterstone, 349 Buy, 238 Callater, 342 Carlingwark, 102 Carron, 403, 407 Castle, 70 Chon, 174 Clunie, 349, 398 Clumly, 453 Coruisk, 391 Craignish, 213, 215 Creran, 239 Crinan, 212 CuUen, 402 Damph, 427 Dee, 109 Dhu, 392 Dochart, 225 Dochfour, 252 Doine, 279 Doon, 119 Doule, 403 Dowalton, 106 Druin, 425 — — Drunkie, 173 Duich, 399 Earn, 286 Head, 280, 287 Eck, 216 Ee, 304 Eil, 239, 243 Eishort, 391 birth- 472 INDEX. LOCH. LOCH. LYON. Loch Enoch, 120 Loch Lydoch, 226, 291 Loch Treig, 246 Eriboll, 442 Lyon, 290 Trool, 105 Ericht, 291, 299 maben, 70 Tullich, 226 Etive, 223 Maddy, 396 Ettichan, 344 Turrit, 286 Martnahan, 119 Vennachar, 178 Fad, 210 Voil, 279 Fadda, 386 Mehall, 386 Watten, 435 Fannich, 402 Wharral, 327 Fee, 327 Menteith, 172 Winnoch, 122 Fewn, 428 Lochar Moss, 91 Morar, 245 Lochend Inn, 252 Findhorn, 365 Loch Inch Castle, 108 Freuchie, 288 Muich, 328 Lochnaw Castle, 109 Fruin, 405 Lochy, river, 240, 248, 280 Fyne, 211, 218 nagar, 338, 341 Lockerbie, 70 nan-Damif, 390 Garve, 402 na-Nuagh, 244 Logan House, 109 gelly Stat., 267 Naver, 442 Loganlee Reservoir, 67 gilphead, 211 Nell, 215 Logierait, 295 Ness, 250 Logierieve, 351 Glendhu, 430 Nevis, 243, 383. Lomond Hills, 329 goil, 217 of the Lowes, 349 Loch, 169 Oich, 249 Lonach, 358 Gruinard, 206, 426 Padhascally, 405 London to Edinburgh by sea, 7 Gyle, 233 Quoich, 342 Longforgan, 304 of Harra, 452 Rannoch, 291 Longniddry Stat., 39 Harper t, 389 to Haddington, 40 Hempriggs, 437 Relugan, 406 Longside, 352 Hope, 442 Rescobie, 318 Longtown, 7 Hourn, 383 Resort, 394 Junct., 7 Restil, 219 Lonmay btat., 352 house Tower, 79 Lord Reay's Green Table, Roag, 394 441 Inch, 300 Lossiemouth, 364 Ruttan, 102 Loth Water, 433 — — Inver, 428 Ryan, 112 Loudon Hill, 100 to Scourie and Scarmclete, 435 Castle, 100 Durness, 429 Scavaig, 391 Lour River, 374 Katrine, 180, 181 Lubcroy, 427 Seaforth, 394 Luce Abbey, 107 Killisport, 212 Semple, 123 Water, 108 Kilmeny, 206 Shiel, 243, 244 Lud's Castle, 309 Kinnord, 336 Shin, 420, 429 • Lugar Ironworks, 99 Ki shorn, 407 Skene, 78 Skerrow, 104 Luib, 225 Luing Island, 213 Kirk of, 246 Slam, 442 Laoghal, 442 Slapin, 389 Lumphanan, 336 Slyn, 416 Lunan Bay, 309 Ledgowan, 402 Lundie, Loch, 407 Lee, 332 : Spelve, 238 Luncarty, 292 Lethan, 386 Spey, 246 Lunga Island, 384 Leven, 229 : by Kin- Stack, 429 Luscar, 269 ross, 272 ; castle, 272 Staffin, 387 Luss, 170 Linnhe, 229, 239 Steinster, 437 Luther, Water, 333! Long, 218 — — Stenniss, ^452 Lyall, Sir Charles 318 Lomond, 169 Lybster, 437 • to Fort-William, Striven, 210 Lyne, 75 225 Stroan, 104 Valley, 130 Lochy, 247, 249 Lynedoch House, 287 Swen, 212 Lynvuilg Inn, 301 Luichart, 402 Tarbet, 207 Lyon, river, 289 — Luing, 384, 422 Tay, 281 Torridon, 404, 406 INDEX. 473 MACBETH. M Macbeth, 367 Macbeth's Cairn, 336 Macbie Hill Stat., 129 Macculloch, J. R., 106 Machrireoch, 201 Macdonald, Flora, grave of, 387 Macduff, 373 Macduff's Castle, 258 Cross, 266 • M'Gregor, Clan, 170, 182, 367 Machry Bum, 196 Mackintosh, Sir James, 252 MacLeod's Maidens, 389 Tables, 388 M'Nabs, cemetery of, 280 Mad Cataract, 391 Macrihanish Bay, 203 Maeshow, 451 St. Magnus Bay, 457 Magus Moor, 262 Maiden Bower Crag, 94 Maiden Stone, 359 Makerston, 22 Mam Rattachan, 399 Mam Soul, 423 Mamlorn Forest, 290 Manderston House, 31 Mangerton Tower, 9 Mansfield, 99 Lord, 127, 128 Maps, [16] Mar Lodge, 343 Marchmont, 30 Margaret's Hope, St., 140; (Orkneys), 447 Markinch, 259 Mary, Queen, at Borthwick Castle, 21 ; Jedburgh, 23 ; Dunbar Castle, 36 ; Hailes Castle, 36 ; Seton, 41 ; Holyrood, 54; Craigmillar, 67 ; Hamilton Palace, 85 ; Dundrennan, no ; Niddrj^ 144 ; Inchmahone, 173 ; Wemyss Castle, 258 ; Dun- fermline, 268 ; Lochleven Castle, 272 Maryborough, 229, 239 Maryhill, 165 Marykirk, 320 Mary's Isle, St., no Loch, 77 Tower, 294 Mashie, river, 247 Mason's Cave, 309 Massacre of Glencoe, 228 Mauchline, 99, 118 Maud Junct., 352 Mauldslie Castle, 88 Mausdale, 203 Maxton Stat, 22 [Scotland.] MONESS. Maxwelltown, 93, 98, 101 May, Isle of, 259 river, 275 Maybole, 114 Mealfourvournie, 251 Meggernie Castle, 290 Alegget Water, 77 Megginch Castle, 303 Meigle, 316 Meikle Ferry, 420 Millyea, 120 Meikleour, 315 Melfort, Pass of, 215 Melgund, 318 Melrose Abbey, 15 Old, 14 Stat, 14 Melvich, 441 Melville Castle, 126 House, in Fife, 265 Monument, 286 iNIenhir, 194 Menmuir Hills, 330 Menstrie, 270 Menzies, 283 Merchiston Castle, 67 Merrick range, 120 Merse, the, 22 Merton, 22 Hall, 107 Methven, 287 Castle, 288 Mey, 439 Michael Scott, the wizard. 257 Midcalder Stat, 7, 73 Middleby, 69 JNIidmar, 336 Milkeston Rings, 130 MillofVoy, 453 Millerhill Stat., 124 Milliken Park Stat, 123 Millport, 192 Milltimber, 335 Milnathort, 273 Milngavie, 84 Milnholm, 9 Milton Lockhart, 82, 88 Miltown, 148 — Waterfall, 178 Mingalay, 396 Mingary, 232 Minniehive, 98 Minnigaff, 105 Mintlaw, 352 Minto, 12 Moffat, 78 Moidart House, 244 Moin House, 442 the, 442 Monaltrie, 339 Monance, St, 259 Monar, 422 Monboddo, 321 Moncrieff Hill, 267, 278 Moness Falls, 283 MUSSELBURGH. Monifieth, 307 Monimail, 265 Monkstadt, 387 Monkton Stat., 120 Montgomerie, 119 Montrose, 320 Marquis of, 50, 288 and Bervie Railway, 320 Monymusk, 354 Monzie, 288 Mormond Hill, 352 Moorfoot Hills, 130 Moor of Dinnet 336 Moot Hill, II, 89 ; Perth, 278 of Urr, 102 Moriston Falls, 250 Morrone, 341 Mortality, Old, 85, 97, 321 Mortlach Kirk, 375 Morton Castle, 98 Morven, 239, 329, 337, 338 Mossgiel, 100 Mossie Burn, 356 Motherwell Junct., 83 Moulin, 295 Moulinearn, 295 Mound of Fleet, 421, 425 Mount Battock, 334 Benger, 77 Blair, 331 Keen, 329, 333 Oliphant, 118 Shade, 334 Stuart, 210 Mountain Heights in Scot- land, [30] Mousa Island, 456 Mouse Water, 81, 90 Mowatt's Stone, 357 Moy, 238 Muchalls, 322, 354 Muck Island, 381 Muckerach, 302 Muckhart, 270 Mugdock Reservoir, 184 Mugdrum House, 266; Cross, 266 Muick, Falls of, 329 Muiravonside, 147 Muirkirk, 99 Muir of Ord, 417 Muirtown, 252, 413 Mulben, 361 Mull Island, 230 of Cantyre, 202 of Galloway, 109 Lighthouse, 202 Munches, 102 Mungo Park, 76 Munlochy, 414 Murkle, 439 Murray, Sir George, 286 Murthly, 292 New, Castle, 292 Murtle Stat., 334 Musselburgh, 42 x2 474 INDEX. MUTHILL. Rluthill, 284 Myrton, 107 N Nairn, 367 river, 368, 370 Napier, dock, 188 Naver, river, 441 Needle Rock, 387 Neidpath Castle, 131 Nelson, monument to, 222 Neptune's Staircase, 248 Ness, Glen, 119 river, 412 Nethan, river, 88 Netherby, 8 Netherbyres, 33 Nethercleugh Stat., 71 Nether Urd, 130 Nevis, Glen, 241, 242 Loch, 243 New Abbey, 95 Newark Castle, 76 ; by Ayr, 118 ; by Pt. Glasgow, 190 Newarthiil, 160 Newbattle, 21 Newburgh, 266 Newbyres, 21 Newcastleton, 9 Newe Castle, 357 New Galloway, 103 to Stroanaid, 104 Newhaven, 65 New Lanark, 89 Newliston, 144 New Machar, 351 New Maud Junct., 352 Newmilns, loo Newpark, 160 New Seat Stat, 352 Newton Stat., 84 Newtonhill Stat., 322 Newtonmore, 247, 299 Newton-Stewart, 104 to Stranraer, 107 Newtown St. Boswells Junc- tion, 12 to Berwick-on-Tweed, 22 to Reston Junct., 29 Newtyle, 304 railway, 307 Niddry Castle, 144 Nigg, 4i5> 419 Nine Stane Rig, 10 Nine wells, 31 Ninian's, St., 107, 162 Nisbet Stat., 23 House, 30 Nith, river, 95, 98 Nithsdade, 97 Noltland Castle, 354 Norham Castle, 29 North Berwick, 37 PARAFFIN. North Berwick Law, 38 North Esk, river, 129 Queensferry, 139 shield Rings, 130 Tundergay, 196 Uist, 396 Noss Head, 457; Holm, 457; Island, 457 Novar, 418 Oakly, 269 Oakwood Tower, 80 Oban, 224 to Bannavie, 238 to Portree in Skye, 381 to Staffa and lona, 229 Obe, 395 Ochill Hills, 142, 270 Ochiltree, Edie, 26 Ochtertyre, 285 Ogilvy Castle, 275 Oil, paraffin, distilleries, 83 furnaces, 394 Oldany, 428 Old Castleton, 9 Old Deer, 352 Man of Hoy, 454 Man of Storr, 386 Man of Wick, 436, 437 Melrose, 14 Olderdale, 192 Onich, 22p Orchy Bridge, 226 Ord of Caithness, 436, 441 Ordie, river, 292 Orkney Islands, 446 Ormidale, 211 Oronsay, 208, 383 Orr, river, 258, 267 Orton, 361 Ospisdale, 224 Ossian's Hall, 294 ; tomb, 288 Ought Hill, 327 Oversay, island of, 206 Overtown, 83 Oykel Bridge, 420, 427 Oyne Stat., 360 Pabba Island, 384 Paisley, 123, 124, 199 Palmer's Bridge, 364 Palnure Stat., 104 water, 104 Panmure, 307 Pannanich Wells, 337 Pap of Glencoe, 228 Papa Stour, 457 Paps of Caithness, 437 of Jura, 207 Paraffin oil works, 159, 160 PLACE. Park Stat., 335 Hill Stat., 351, 419 Parph Forest, 445 Partick, 188 Parton, 103 Pass of Awe, 215 of Ballater, 338 of Brander, 215, 222 — of Corry^arligen, 398,399 -- — of Killiecrankie, 296 of Melfort, 215 Pathhead, 257 Patna, 119 Pattach, river, 247 Pausayl, river, 74 Pavilion, the, 19 Paxton House, 29 Pease Bridge, 34 Peden's Pulpit, 12 Peebles, 130 Peel Bog, 336 Peerie Sea, 450 Peniel Heugh, 14, 23 Pennicuik, 129 House, 68 Penninghame, 105 Penpont, 98 Pentland Hills, 67, 73 Firth, 439 Penton, 9 Linns, 9 Perrie Inn, 348 Perth, 266, 276 to Aberdeen, 315 to Elgin, 374 to Dundee and Arbroath, 303 ^ to Forres and Inverness, 292 to Locheamhead by Crieff, 284 Peterhead, 353 Petticur, 257 Phantassie, 36 Philiphaugh, 76 Philorth, 352 Pictish Ditch, 10 Tower, 290, 400 Picts' Castles, 380 Houses, 357, 399, 441, 451 Pinkie, battle of, 41 Burn, 41 House, 42 Pinnacle Hill, 26 Pirnhill Fort, 132 Pitcaithley, 266 Pitcaple, 360 Pitcarity, 330 Pitfichie, 355 Pitfour, 303, 352 Pitlochrie, 295 Pitsligo, Pittencrieff, 268 Pittenweem, 259 Place of Sorbie, 106 INDEX. 475 PLACES. ROSEBANK. ST. ORAN. Places of interest, 15, 34, Rosehall, 426 187, 379, 254, 314 R Rosehaugh, 414 Pladda, island of, 19S Rosemarkie, 415 Plaid, the Scotch, [16] Raasay Island, 392 Roseneath, 168, 190 Plaidy Stat, 372 Racks Stat., 92 Roslin Castle Stat., 127 Plockton, 403 Rae Hills, 71 Castle, 129 Chapel, 127 Pluscardine Abbey, 364 Railways, [9] Polkemmet, 159 Raith, 257 Stat, 66, 127 Pollockshields, 124, 199 Raits, 300 Roslinlee Stat, 127 Polmaise, 143 Rammerscales, 70 Ross Priory, 170 Polmont Junct. Stat., 147 Poltalloch, 212 Ramsay, Allan, 72 Ross of Mull, 237 RannocluLoch, 291 Rossdhu, 170 Pomathorn Stat., 129 Rossie, 310 Pomona, 446 Ranza Bay, 196 Priory, 304 Poolewe, 405, 426 Ratho Junct., 138, 144 Rosyth, 140 Port Appin, 238, 239 Rathen Stat., 352 Rotal, 330 Askaig,_ 205 Rattachan, 399 Rothes, 374 Bannatine, 210 Ravelstone, 138 Rothesay, 209 Chaniil, 443 Ravenscraig Castle, 257, 353 Duke of, 84, 260 Charlotte, 206 Stat, 199 Rothie, 371 Dearg, 237 Ravenshall, in Rothiemay, 361 Ellen, 205 Reay, 440 Rothiemurchus, 300 Glasgow, 190 Redcastle, 309, 414, 417 Row, 168 Head, 309 Rowallan, loi Gower, 433 Rednoch, 173 Rowardennan, 171 Red Rocks, 258 Rowdill, 395 leithen Stat., 322 Relugas, 366 Roxburgh, 22, 26 of Menteith, 172, 182 Renfrew, 189 Castle, 26 Renton, 168 Roy Castle, 302 nellan, 17S Repentance Tower, 69 Rozelle, 117 Patrick, 109 Rerwick, no Ruberslaw, 12 Sonachan, 214, 220 Rest-and-be-thankful, 219 Rude Stones, 105 Portincaple, 218 Restennet, 318 Ruisky, 250 Portmore Loch, 130 Reston Junct, 33 Rule's Cave, St, 264 Portobello, 42 Rhiconich, 431 Rullion Green, 68 Portree, 385 Rhifael, 441 Rum, 232, 382 Rumbling Bridge, 271, 294 • to Quiraing, 386 Rhinns of Galloway, 108, 112 Rutherford's Walk, in to Stomoway and the Rhymer's Glen, 19 Rutherglen, 84 Outer Hebrides, 393 Tower, 30 Ruthrie, Linn of, 374 Portsoy, 375 Rhynns, 206 Ruthriestone, 334 Wilham, 107 Riccarton Junct, 10 Ruthven Barracks, 300 Potarch Bridge, 336 village, 73, loi Preston Grange, 41 Riddings Junct., 8 Ruth well Stat., 91 Tower, 41 Rienloan lun, 338 Rye Water, 122 Prestonpans, 41 Ringans, St., 162 battlefield, 41 Rispond, 414 Prestwick, 120 Rizzio, murder of, 55 s Priestlaw, 31 Rob Roy M'Gregor, 279 Prince Charles's Cave, 385 cave of, 172 Saddell, 200 Prince's Well, 333 Saddlevoke, 78 Prosen Glen, 330 grave, 279 St Abb's Head, 33 Purvis Hill, 132 Robertson, the historian, 21, St. Andrews, 262 40 Rock of St. Skeagh, 310 Catherine's, 219 Q, Rockcliffe Stat., 68 Fillans (Loch Earn), Rodes Castle, 30 286 Quantemess, 451 Rogart Stat., 421 Kilda Island, 396 Queensferry Drive, 329 Rogie Falls, 402 Magnus Bay, 457 North, 139 Roman Camp, 274 Margaret's Hope, 140 ; (Orkney), 447 South, 139 Wall, 148 Romanno, 130 Quinaig, 427, 428, 430 Rona Island, 445 Loch, 77 Quiraing, 387 Ronachan, 204 Quoich, Linn of, 342 Roneval, 395 — — Ninian's, 107, 162 Quothquan Law, 72 Rose bank, 26 Oran's Chapel, 235 476 INDEX. ST. RULE. SOMERVILLE. STOBINHAIN. St. Rule's Cave, 264 Shean Ferry, 239 Sonachan, Port, 214 Serf's Isle, 273 Shea, river, 347 South, 214 Salen in Mull, 230, 231, 242 Shedog, 197 Sorbie, 106 Salisbury Crags, 56 Shell Island, 213 Sorn, 99 Salmon-breeding, 292 Shetlerstone, 345 Saltcoats, 122 Shetland Islands, 455 Soulseat, 108 Saltpans, 41 Sheriffmuir, 75, 274 Sound of Cuan, 213 Sannigmore, 206 Shiag Burn, 428 Kerrera, 238 Sanda, 202 Shiel Hill, 70 Mull, 230 Sandey, 455 Shiel House Inn, 399, 423 Sourlies, 243, 383 Sandside, 440 Southend, 202 Sandwick, 447, 453 Shieldaig, 406 South Hall, 211 Sanquhar, 98 to Strome Ferry or Inch, 276 Sark, 68, 90 Strathcarron, 407 Queensferry, 139 Saughs Water, 332 Gairloch, 406 List, 396 Saughton, 144 Shieldhall, 188 Southwick, 102 New, 138 Shin, river, 420, 426 Spar Cave, 390 Sauchieburn, 162 Shinnell Water, 98 Spean Bridge, 245 Scalloway Castle, 456 Shipbuilding j'ards, Denny's, Scalpa Island, 392 . ^67 . Spedlin's Tower, 71 Scalpsie Bay, 210 Shochie, river, 292 Spey Valley, 247, 300 Scarabhein, 437 Shotts Stat., 160 river, 299, 361, 374 — ;- mouth of, 362 Scarba Island, 207 Ironworks, 160 Scarskerry, 439 Shuna Isle, 213, 239 Spital of Glenshee, 347 Scavaig. Loch, 390, 391 Sidlaw Hills, 303, 316 Spitalhaugh, 130 Schehallion, 290 Silverbank, 198 Spittalside farm, 119 Scone Palace, 278 Sinclair Bay, 438 Spott, 36 Scoor-nan-Damff, 392 Sinclairtown, 257 Spottiswood, 30 Scotch Dyke Stat., 8 Skail, 453 Spouting Cave, 237 Scotscalder Stat., 433 Skeabost, 388 Springfield Stat., 260 Scotstarvit, 261 St. Skeogh, rock of, 310 Sprouston, 27 Scotstown, 189 Skelbo,'424 Spynie, 364 Scott, Michael, the wizard, Skeleton routes, [38] Squirting Cave, 203 12, 80, 107, 257 Skellater, 358 Stack, 430 Scott, Sir Walter, 13, 18, 23, Skelmorlie, 191 of Tillylodge, 356 26, 64, 88, 126 Skerryvore Light, 232 Stacks of Duncansbay, 438 Scourie, 429 Skibo, 424 Staffa, 233 Scour-na-caich, 243 Skipness Castle, 200 Staffin, 387 Ouran, 399 Skye, 381, 385 Standing stones, 74, 75, 105, Scou, 430 Railway, 401 258 . Scrabster Bay, 434 Slaines Castle, 353 Stanley (near Paisley), 124 Scrishven, 445 Slain Man's Lee, 76 Junct. Stat., 292, 315 Scuir More, 382 Slateford, 67, 74 Steamers, [11] Slattadale, 405 Steele Road Stat., 9 nan-Gillean, 3S2, 392 Sleat Sound, 383 Steinscholl, 386, 387 nan-Gour, 383 Sliabh, 202 , Stenhouse Moor, 147 na-Lapich, 422 Sliabhgoil, 212 Slidry Water, 197 Stenniss, House of, 452 of Eigg, 232, 381 Standing stones of, 452 Vullin, 402 Sligachan, 392 Stepps Stat., 160 Sculptured stones, 316, 318 Slitrig, 10 Stewarton, loi Seacliff House, 39 Slock -na-muich, 366 Stewartrj' of Kirkcudbright, Seafield Tower, 257 Slug of Auchrannie, 316 103 Selkirk, 75 Sluie, Lodge of, 366 Stitchell Lmn, 26 to Moffat, 80 Smailholm, 17 Stinchar Water, 112 Alexander, 28 Tower, 17 Stirling, 162; Castle, 164 ; St. Serf's Isle, 273 Small Glen, 288 Old bridge of, 165 ; E.xcur- Serpent Cairn, 225 Smeaton House, 36 sions from, 165 Smith, Adam, 257, 259 to Inversnaid, 172 Seton, 41 Smollett, 169 to Kinross and Perth, Sgor-na-Stree, 391 Smoo Cave, 444 269 Sgur Voucharan, 206 Sneb of Clova, 327 Loch Lomond, 182 Shandon, West, 168 Sneck of Barns, 327, 330 to Perth, 274 Shandwick Cross, 416 Solway Firth, 7 Junction Railway, 68 to Lochearnhead, 284 Shanter's Farm, 115 to the Trossachs, 174 Shapinshay, 448 Moss, 68 Stobhall, 315 Sharpe, Archbishop, 262 Somerville, Mrs., 24 Stobinhain, 280 INDEX. 477 STOBO. Stobo, 74 Stobbs, lo Stoir, 428 Stonebyres, 90 Stonehaven, 321 Stones of Clava, 370 of Via, 453 Stoneykirk, 109 Stonyford Bridge, 330 Stornoway, 394 Storr Rock, 385 Stow Stat., 19 Strachur, 216 Stranraer, 108 to Ayr, 112 Strath Affrick, 423 aird, 390 Allan Castle, 284 beg, 426 blane, 183 bogie, 361 Braan, 294 Brora, 432 Carron, 403, 407 Conon, 417 dearn, 367 Derrie, 425 don, 360 earn, 284 endry, 259 farrar, 422 Fleet, 420 Garve, 425 glass, 422 Halladale, 447 Kennort, 427 miglo, 274 Monar, 422 more, 330 naver, 441 Oj'kel, 427 peffer, 401 spey, 301 Terry, 441 UUie, 433 Strathy, 441 Strathyre, 279 Streens, 366 Strichen Stat., 352 Water, 352 Stroma Falls, 425 Ferry, 385 ■ to Sicye, 430 (Sutherland), 403 Stroma Island, 439 Stromness, 453 Stronachlachar, 182 Strone House, 349 Stronliath, 243 Stron Nea, 407 Stronsey, 447 Strontian, 242 Stronvai-, 279 Struan Stat., 298 ; Inn, 388 Struy, 422 Suilven, 428 THREAVE. Sunart, Loch, 232, 242 Sumburgh Head, 455 Sunderland, 206 Sundrum, 119 Sunlaws, 22 Sutherlandshire, 411 Sweetheart Abbey, 95 Sweno's Stone, 365 Swinton House, 28 Swingle, 437 Swona, Isle of, 439 Symington, 72 j unct. to Peebles, 74 Tain, 419 Tail's Tomb, 270 Talisker, 389 Talla, 173 Talladale, 404 Tangy Glen, 203 Tankerness, 447 Tannadyce, 326 Tantallon Castle, 38 Tap of Noth, 360 Tarbat House, 419 Tarbert (in Can tyre), 204 ; meaning of name, 204 ; West, 205 ; (in Harris), 395 Tarbet (Loch Lomond), 171 to Oban, 219 to Fort- William, 225 on Loch Nevis, 245 Ness, 416 Tarff, 109 ; bridge, 322 ; river, 249 Tarffside, 332 Tarland, 336 Tarradale, 415 Tay, Loch, 281 ; River, 265, 276, 281 ; Railway Bridge, ^ 30.5 , Taymloan, 203, 338 Taymouth Castle, 282 to Inveroran, 289 Taynuilt, 222 Tayport, 265 Teith, river, 176, 177 Telford, birthplace of, 9 Templechurch, 21 Templehouse Pier, 252 Tents Moor, 265 Terregles, 94, loi Teviot, 10, II, 12 Thankerton Stat., 72 Thirlestane, 20, 80 Thomson, the poet, birth- place of, 27 Thornhill, 97 Thornilee Stat., 32 Thornton Castle, 35 Junction, 257 Threave Castle, 102 TROSSACHS. Thurso, 434 river, 435 to Tongue, 440 Tibber's Castle, 97 Tibby Shiels's Inn, 78 Tighnabruich, 211 Till, river, 28 Tillichewan Castle, 169 Tillicoultry, 270 Tillyfamr>', 334 Tillyfourie, 355 Tillynaught Junct., 375 Tilquhillie Castle, 335 Tilt Falls, 344 river, 350 Tingwall, 456 Tinnis Castle, 74 Tinto Hill, 72 Tippermuir, 288 Tiree, 232 Tobermory, 232 Tolly Castle, 371 Tolquhoun Castle, 351 Tomachastle, 285 Tomandoun, 398 Tomantoul, 339 Tombuie, 406 Tomich, 423 Tongue, 440, 442 to Cape Wrath, 442 Tongueland, 109 Torbeg, 197 Torbanehill, 159 Tor Castle, 197 Tor House, 105 Tordarnich, 338 Torieum Hill, 285 Torlundie, 245 Tormore, 196 Torphichen, 159 Torphins, 336 Torraline Water, 198 Torrandow Bridge, 425 Torrin, 389 Torridon Loch, 406 Torrisdale Castle, 200 Torryburn, 141 Torsonce, 20 Torwoodlee, 19 Toward Castle, 209 Point, 191 Tower of Hollows, 8 Towie Castle, 357 Tranent, 41 Traprain Law, 37 Traquair, 132 Travelling view of Scotland, ,[91,2 Treachtan, 222 Treig, river, 246 Treshnish Islands, 232 Trimontium, 13 Troon, 120 Trossachs, the, 180 Church, 179 Hotel, 179 478 INDEX. TROTTERNISH. WEMYSS CASTLE. YTHAN RIVER. Trotternish, 386 Wemyss Bay, 191 Trow Crags, 22 V Terminus, 199 Truim Water, 299 West Calder, 160 Tulchan Lodge, 374 Vaternish, 386 Velvet Hall Stat., 29 Vendace Club, the, 70 Vennachar Loch, 178 Via, stones of, 453 Vigeans, St. (Forfar\ 310 Voy, Mill of, 453 Hall, 360 Tuitumtarvach, 426 TuUiallan Castle, 142 Tullibardine, 284 Water, 330 Westerkirk, 9 Wester Water, 438 Tullibody House, 143 Westquarter House, 147 Tulloch, Hill of, 298 Ross-shire, 418 Tullochgorum, 302 Westry, 454 Whangie, 183 Whifflet, 83, 160 Tummel Falls, 295 Whinnyhill, 95 Tunderguy, North, 196 Whistlefield, 216 South, 196 ^W Whitburn, 159 Tumberry Castle, 114 Whiteadder, 31 Turriff, 372 Wade, Gen., 245, 275, 299 Comb, 78 Turrit, river, 285 Waith Bridge of, 453 Hill, 8 Tushielaw, 80 Walkerburn, 132 House, 206, 355 Tweedmouth, 29, 31 Wallace, Sir Wm., 147, 164 side Hill, 130 Tweed, river, 31, 74, 130 birthplace, 189 Stones, 334 Tweedsmuir, 74 monuments, 14, 17, 116, Whiten Head, 443 Twizell Castle, 28 175 Whithorn, 106 Tyndrum, 226 Wallhouse, 159 Whiting Bay, 19S Tyne Head Stat., 20 Wamphray, 71 ; Stat., 71 Wick, 435 river, 36, 40 Ward Hill, 454 by Huna, 438 Tynninghame, 36 Wardhouse, 360 to Kirkwall. 446 Tyrim, 383 Wark, 27 to Thurso, 438 Warran, 330 Wideford Hill, 450 Warthill, 371 Wigtown, 105 Wartle Stat., 371 Wilkie, David, 261 u Wa,shington Irvine, 448 Wilsontown, 73, 159 Watch Hill, 78 Winchburgh Stat., 144 Uamh Fhraing, 381 Water of Ayr, 118 Winestoup, 328 Uam Var, 176 of Ettichan, 344 Winton House, 41 Uddingston Stat., 84 of Fleet, 104 Wishaw, 83 Udny, 351 of I^Iilk, 70 Woodhouselee, 129 Ugadale, 200 Waterloo Pillar, 14, 23 New, 129 Uig, 387 Uist, North, 396 Waterside, 119 Woodside Stat, 315 Waterworks, Loch Katrine Wrath, Cape, 445 South, 396 and Glasgow, 135, 137, 181 Ulbster Castle, 439 Watt Monument, 190 Ullapool, 426, 430 Watten Stat., 435 Y Ullinish, 389 Waverley Route, 7 Ulva, 233. Wauchope Castle, 8 Yachtsmen in the Hebrides Union Bridge, 29 Weary Nuik, 115 hints for, [31] Uphall, 160 Wedderbum Castle, 30 Yarrow, 75, 77 Urquhart Castle, 251 Weem Crag, 283 Yarrowford, 77 Urr, river, 102 Inn, 2S3 Yell, 457 Weem's Cave, 327 Yester House, 40 Urrard House, 297 Well of Heads, 249 Yetholm, 27 Urie, 321 Wells of Dee, 346 York Fall, 351 Uson, 310 Wemyss Castle, 258 Ythan River, 352, 371 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES ' This book is due on the date indicated below, or at the expiration of a definite period after the date of borrowing, as provided by the library rules or by special arrangement with the Librarian in charge. DATE BORROWED DATE DUE DATE BORROWED DATE DUE ! C28 (449) M50 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 0035524839 941.4 M964 _j ' ^ in o ST Cn