MASTER NEGATIVE NO 92-80778-1 MICROFILMED 1 992 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES/NEW YORK as part of the ''Foundations of Western Civilization Preservation Project" Funded by the NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES / Reproductions may not be made without permission from Columbia University Library COPYRIGHT STATEMENT The copyright law of the United States - Title 17, United States Code - concerns the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material... Columbia University Library reserves the right to refuse to accept a copy order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. AUTHOR: COXE, WILLIAM TITLE: TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND PLACE: DUBLIN DATE: 1789 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DEPARTMENT Master Negative # BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET Original Material as Filmed - Existing Bibliographic Record 949.42 C83 'wzr Coxe, William.' 1747-1828. ^ ^ Travels in Switzerland. In a series of letters to Wil- liam Molmoth, esn., from William Coxe ... London. T . [Cad<41, 1789. Dublin, White. 2 V. fold, pi, fold. map. 21**. L Swiaerlaad. 2. Switzerland— Dcscr. & trav. library of Congress O DQ22.C8 5—10207 mm " ■* » •* I* Restrictions on Use: TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA FILM SIZE: '^rVhiM REDUCTION RATIO: IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA (T^ IB IIB DATE FILMED: 7 - :? ^ , ^^ INITIALS_^j /5^_._ HLMEDBY: RESEARCH PUBLICATIONS. INC WOODBRIDGE. CT /2JL c Association for Information and image iManagement 1100 Wayne Avenue, Suite 1100 Silver Spring. Maryland 20910 301/587-8202 Centimeter iiii niilniiimiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiii I 4 5 iliiiiliiiiliin 6 7 8 iiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliii 9 10 11 12 13 14 iiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliii 15 mm TTT m Inches 1.0 1^12.8 |50 u b. ^ ■uuu 1.4 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.6 I.I 1.25 MflNUFRCTURED TO nilM STflNDflRDS BY APPLIED IMfiGE, INC. "h ^^"J^ Aj %' ^^ i'Jit^'^y riti. w ■■/4 f m -.V- > : J.* I ■• t r'.*,-.l-'t • t , •5 • ' 'I't f ' ' ' I ! SA-^.^^ in the (Citxs of Ucxu ^ovIj %xhxuxv^ mi I stt M' T R A S W I T Z (ti)i.sc:ot.L. :^s N.YORu. / E R I^n4-N. 0. t N A SERIES OF LETTERS T WILLIAM MELMOTH, Esq. r ROM WILLIAM COXE, M.A. F.R.S. F.A.S. Rector .of bemerton ; member of the imperial oeconomical SOCIETY AT ST. PETERSBURGH, OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AT COPENHAGEN, AND CHAPLAIN TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. L DUBLIN-.'^ POINTED FOR Messrs. L. White, P. Byrne, Grueber & McAllister, T. He kry, J. Jones, J.M oore, and W. Jones. M DCC LXXXIX. I f C O /^ (Xi.. TO THE, t j CO LL . ") I^RARY \ N VOKii U N T E S S J OF PEMBROKE AND MONTGOMERV, La habite un Peuplc firaple, bicnfaifant, brave, cnnemi du fade, ami 'du travail, ne cherchant point d'efclavcsj et ne voulant point de maitres. De Mehegan, Tableau de PHiftoire Moderns % '-t r" ^ II ti * CONTENTS OF TJI t FIRST VOLUME^ i •( Let. g^j^OUTE through the Black ForeJ-^Source ^ the Danube, Page i X Arrival in SwitT^erland — Shaffhaufen — Fallrf* the Rhine, 4 3. I/le of Reichenau — Conjlance— Geneva Efia^ blijhment — IJle of Meinau — Lake of Con^ Jiance. 1 j 4- St. Gallen — Santon of JfpenzeL z\ V i ill III I « CONTENTS. LfiT. 5. Valley of the Rhlne^Tbe Lake and Town of Wallenjladt. Page 30 6. The Canton of Glarus. 37 f. The Abbey of Ehftdlin—RapperfcbwyL ' 47 8. Town and Canton of ZuHc, 53 9, EccUftaJiical Jjffairs^State of Literature-^ Learned Men of Zuric — Society of Fbyftcs-^ Seminaries-^Libraries* 69 10* Bxpediikn alokg the Borden of the Lake of Ztiric—liychterfchwyl—IJle of Ufnau—Rape perfchzvyl — Grunengen — UJlar — Greiffenfee — Excurfion to Regenjbergy and to the summit of the Lagerberg, 84 1 1* Wintertbur^CaJlle of Kyburgk 99 12. Trauenfielil—Of the Helvetic Confederacy— Diets. 105 J 3. R^uie hy Water from Zuric to Baden — Bridge of Wittingen-^Badtn — Cq/ile of Hapf burgh. 1 1 2 14. Konigsfelden — Windi/h — Voyage down the ' Rhine. ^ J 19 15* The Toivn of Bajlc -Erafmus — Library — Holbein. 127 i6i Government C C N T E N X S. Let. 1 6. Government of Bafle. m Page 138 17. Combat at the Hofpital of St. James y between the Forces of Louis Dauphin of France^ and a Corps of Swifs Troops— Ruins of AugJi—MuU haufen. *47 18. Bijljopric of Bafle— Poreniru— Abbey of BeU lelay—ArleJheim—Delmont— Valley of Mun^ fter^^Pierre Pertuis— Valley of St. Jmien 19. The Town of Biennel %74 20. The Town and Canton ofSoleure — Detail of the Government — Antient and New Burghers-^ Afembly of the Rofengarten. 1 79 11. Treaties with France— Repaiom on Foreign Service. • ^o^ 2 a. The Canton of Zug. 20S «3. The fawn and Canton of Lucerne — General PJfffer*s Model. Vc ^aTa 24. Valley of Entlibuch — Zoffiiigen — LakeofSem' pacb — Anniverfary of the Battle. 'XzS a 5. The Lake of Lucerne— Gerifau — Scbweitz-^ Origin of the Helvetic Confederacy — William ^fll—Altdfirf. ^34 26» Canton IP" «l n 1'; m CONTENT S. Lbt. %6. Canton of Undenvalden Sortie — Sax^len-^ Tomb and Charader of Nicholas de Flue^ Sta7ii%r^ Engelberg—Fajfage ov^r the Suren Alpi U Ahdorf. Page 248 «7. Valley of Schoillenen—DeviPs Bridge^alley of Urferen — Valley and Mountain of St. Cotbard— Sources (f the Tefmo and Rtufs. 167 a8. Paffage and Glacier of the Furca— Source of the Rhone. ' 280 19. Mount Grimfel— Source of the Aar — Of the Chamois. ^87 30. Valley of the Aar^Land of Hafli—Mey- ringen. 299 31. Fall of the Reichenbach — Paffage of the Sheidec — Valley and Glaciers cf Grindel- wald. ^ 30^ 32. Valley and Glaciers of Lauterbruenmn — Fail of the Staubbach. 316 33. Lakes of?hunandBrientz — Pajfage of Mount . Gemmi — Baths of Leuk. 322 34. Republic of the Vallais — Cardinal Schinner — Town of Sum-^Martigny — St. Maurice. 35- Of CONTENTS. ^ r Let. 3J. Qf thf Vallais-^-^Qitm md Uhtu Page 34+ 36. Paffage of the Tete Noire^Col. de Balnn — Mont Blanc — bs great Elevation. 37. Glacier of Bojfon — Montanvert — Expedition acrofs the VsJley of Ice. 365 38. Excurfion towards the Summit rf the Cou^ vercle. 372 39. Various Attempts to reach the Summit of Mont Blanc — Succefsful Expedition of James Bahna and Dr. Paccard — Of Monfieur de Saujfure — His phyjical Obfervatiom. 380 40. ConjeSlures on the Formation and State of the Glaciers, 390 41. Account of the Bouquetin^ or Mamtain- Goat. 402 4a. yournjeytp G^neva-^Pays de Vaud-^Laufanne — Felix the Ffth — Vevay — Tomb and Cha* ra^er of General Ludlow — Clarens — Meil' krie. 420 43. Cajile of Chi lion — Villeneuve —Aigle — S^//- Works of Bex^ (md Aigle. Page 439 44. Valley and Lake of jfoux kmt — Tverdun. 'Orbe-^St. Barthe- 447 45. Granfon C O N T E N T S. 'ii I, 1 Let. 45. Gran/an— Neuchatel— Mr. Fury's Senefdc- ticns. Page 445 46. Expedition to the Locld and Chaux de Fond. 462 47. Government of NeucbateL 469 48. Route from Pontarlier to Neuchatel^Valley of Tr avers — Anecdotes of Roujfeau—ljle of St. St. Peter in the Lake of Bienne. 480 49. Environs of Morat^Mount Vuilly. 493 50. Battle of Morat — War between the Swifs and Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy — Its Con^ fequences. 497 51. Antiquities of Avenches. 506 52. Town and Canton of Friburgh-^Pofulation — Government — Secret Chamber. 512 53. Origin and Supprejfton of the late Troubles in the Canton of Friburgb^Changes in the Form of Government. S^S ^4. Cbeefe of Gruyera — Hermitage near Fri- burgh 546 Extrailfrom Saxo Cramaticus. 553 LETTER LETTERS, ^c. LETTER I. « Route through the Black Forejl — Source of the Danube. DEAR SIR, Donefchingcn, July 21, 1776. 1AM now at Donefchingcn, in my way to- wards Switzerland; a country long* celebrated for the peculiarities of its different governments, and for the fingular beauties conferred upon it by nature. If it will not be trefpaffing upon your patience, I propofe to trouble you with fome account of my tour. For I am perfuaded, that I (hall travel with much greater profit to my- felf ; as the reflexion that my obfervations arc to be communicated to^you, will render mc more attentive and accurate in forming them. Vol. I. B vV^g Ill LETTER fr We quitted Strafburgh yefterday, and croflcd the Rhine to Kehl, formerly an important fortrefs belonging to Strafburgh when an imperial city. It was alfo ftrongly fortified by the French, wha took poffeflion of it in 1648 : being ceded to the Empire at the peace of Ryfwic, the Emperor eonfigned it to the houfe of Baden, rcferving, however, to himfelf the right of a garrifon. Since that period, it has been twice attacked by the French : and as during the lad fiege, in 1733, the works were confiderably damaged, the im- perial garrifon has been withdrawn. At prefent, there are only the ruins of the ancient fortifica- tions ; and by way of garrifon, a few invalids belonging to the Margrave of Baden. From thence we proceeded to Offenburgh, a fmall im- perial town ; and foon after, entered the beauti- ful valley of Kinfing : we paffed through Gen- genbach, another fmall imperial town, finely fituated ; and continued our journey by the fide of the fmall river Kingfin ; rifing gradually for fe- reral leagues together, until we found ourfelves in the midft of the Black Foreft. As we afcend- cd, the country became more wild and romantic, and the river more rapid ; on each hand moun- tains, wh^fc acclivities were finely cultivated, and whofe tops were richly covered with a con- tinual forcli. Several fmall ftreams of the clear- eft water rolled down the fides of the mountains, in numberlcfs cafcades ; and uniting, fell into thgrKinfing. The views were fo exceedingly di- vcrfified ; the villages fo delightfully fituated ; and the cottages fo extremely piSurefque, that we almoft fecmed to have anticipated the roman- tic beauties of Switzerland. Donef- Source of the Danube. % Donefchingen is the principal rcfidencc of the prince of Furftenberg : in the court-yard of his palace, the Danube takes its rife. I am this mo- ment returned from vifiting the fpot ; the dc- fcription of which may be comprifed in a few words. Some fmall fprings bubbling from the ground, form a bafon of clear water, of about thirty feet fquare : from this bafon iflues the Da- nube, which is here only a little brook. And though the two fmall rivers of Bribach and Brege, uniting below the town, are far more confider- able than this ftream, which flows into them foon after their jundion ; yet the latter has the honor of being called the fource of .the Danube. After we had gone through the ceremony -of ftriding acrofs the ftream, in order to fay, that we had Jiepped over the Danube, we foon fatisfied our curiofity ; the objed itfelf being in no refped ex- traordinary, but deriving its principal confidcra- tion from being the fource of fo noble a river. Indeed, it was this circumftance alone that in- duced us to enter Switzerland by the way of Suabla. I am, dear Sir, very affedionatcly yours William Coxjb. B 2 LET. i • \1 LETTER '*. LETTER i. Arrival in Switzerland — Shaffhaufen — Fall of the Rhine. Shaffliaufcn, July zz. 1 FEEL great delight in breathing the air of liberty: every pcrfon here has apparently the mien of content and fatisfadion. The cleanli- nefs of the houfes, and of the people, is peculi- arly ftriking ; and I can trace in all their man- ners, behaviour, and drefs, fome ftrong out- lines, which diftinguifli this happy people from- I he neighbouring nations. Perhaps it may be prejudice and unreafonable partiality ; but 1 am the more pleafed, becaufe their firft appearance reminds me of my own countrymen, and I could almoft think, for a moment, that I am in Eng- land *. *On again entering Shaflfhaufen, the iSrhofJuly, 178^, 1 was not fo much ftruck with its neamefs as in 1776. The rcafon 13 obvious. In my former expedition I emerged from the wilds of Suabia, on the latter occaGon I had juft quitted the cultivated parrs of Bararia. Shaff. Shaffhaufen. g ShaflFhaufen, a tolerably well built town, fitu- flted upon the northern fliore of the Rhine, is the capital of the canton, and owes its origin to the interruption of the navigation of that river by the catarad at Lauffen: huts being at firft conftrufted for the convenience of unloading the merchandize from the boats, by degrees increafed to a large town* Shaffhaufen was formerly an imperial city, and governed by an ariftocracy : it was mortgaged in 1 330, by the Emperor Louis of Bavaria, to the Dukes of Auftria, and was re- leafed from its dependency by the Emperor Si- gifmond, when Frederic Duke of Auftria was pujt under the ban of the empire. Jn 1501, it was admitted a member of the Helvetic confederacy; and is the twelfth canton in rank. Of all the cantons, it is the leaft: in fize, being only five leagues in length and three in breadth : its po- pulation is fuppofed to amount to thirty thoufand fouls ; of which, the capital contains about fif thoufand. ^ The whole number of citizens or burgeffes (in whom the fupreme power ultimately refides) is about fixteen hundred. They are divided into twelve tribes : and from thefe are clefted eighty- five members, who form the great and little council. To thefe two councils combined, the adminiftration of affairs is committed : the fenate, or little council of twenty-five^ being entruftied with the executive power ; and the great coun- cil, comprifing the fenate, finally deciding all appeals, and regulating the more important con- cerns of government. The revenues of the ftate are not very confider- able, as will appear from the falary of the bur- gomallerj fl v II! II 6 LETTER 2. gomafter, or chief of the republic ; which barely amounts to jT. 1 50 per arm. The reformation was introduced in 1529: the clergy are paid by the (late, but their income is fcarccly fufficient for their maintenance ;' the bed living being only about £.100, and the word ;r.40 />fr ^;z«. The profeffors of literature alfo, who are taken from the clergy, are paid by government ; and a fchool is fupported at the public exppnce. Sumptuary laws are in force here, as well as in moil parts of Switzerland ; and no dancing^ is allowed, except upon particular occafions. The principal article of exportation is wine ; of which a large quantity is made, the country abounding in vineyards ; and as the canton furnilhes but little corn,' it is procured from Suabia in ex- change for wine. In the town there are a few manufactures of linen, cotton, and filk. It will perhaps give you fome idea of the fecu- rity of the Swifs republics, when I inform you, that ShafFhaufcn, although a frontier town, has no garrifon ; and that the fortifications are but weak. The citizens mount guard by turns ; and the people of the canton being divided into regular companies of militia, which are exer- cifed yearly, are always prepared to aft in de- fence of their country. This canton h^s fome troops in France, Sardinia, and Holland ; the only foreign fcrvices into which the fubjcfts o( the Proteflant cantons enlift. Before I take leave of this town, 1 mud not omit mentioning the bridge over the Rhine ; juftly admired for the Angularity of its iarchitec- turc. The river is extremely rapid, and had al- ready dcftroyed feveral (lone bridges of the ftrongeft Shaffljauferu y- ftrongeft conftruftion ; when a carpenter of Ap- penzel offered to throw a wooden bridge, of a fingle arch, acrofs the river, which is near four* hundred feet wide. The magiftrates, however, required that it fliould confift of two arches, and that he (hould for that purpofe employ the mid- dle pier of the old bridge. Accordingly, the architcft was obliged to obey ; but he has con- trived to leave it a matter of doubt, whether the bridge is fupported by the middle pier; and whe- ther it would not have been equally as fafe if formed folely of one arch. It is a wooden bridge, of which the fides and top arc covered, and is what the Germans call a hangewerk^ or hanging bridge; the road, which IS almoft level, is not carried, as ufual, over the top of the arch ; but, if I may ufc the expreiTion, is let into the middle of it, and there fufpended. The pier is not in a right line with the buttreff- es ; as it forms with them a very obtufe angle pointing down the ftream, being eight feet out of the redilinear direftion. The diftance of this middle pier from the fhore that lies towards the town, is a hundred and feventy-two feet, and from the other fide, a hundred and ninety- three ; in all, three hundred and fixty-four feet ; mak- ing in appearance two arches of a furprifing width, and forming a beautiful perfpedive when viewed at fome diftance. A man of the flighted weight feels it almod tremble under him ; yet waggons heavily lad^n pafs over without danger. It has been cpmpared to a tight rope, which trembles when ftruck, but ftill preferves its firm and equal tenfion. I went under this bridge, in order to examine its mechanifm ; and could not avoid ' ' : i LETTER*. avoid being highly plcafcd with the fimph*city of the architefture : 1 was not capable of determin- ing whether it reds upon the middle pier, but many judges agree that it does not. On confidering the greatnefs of the plan, and the boldnefs of the conftruftion, it is matter of aftonilhment that the archited was originally a carpenter, without the leaft tinSure of literature, totally ignorant of mathematics, and not verfed in the theory of mechanics. The name of this extraordinary man was Ulric Grubenman, a na- tive of Tuffen, a fmall village in the canton of Appenzel. Poffeffed of uncommon natural abi- lities, and a furprifmg turn fbr the praftical part of mechanics, he raifed himfclf to great eminence in his profeflion ; and may juftiy be confidered as one of the mod ingenious architeds of the prefcnt century. This bridge was finifhed in lefs than three years, and coft ninety thoufand flo- rins *. Thii * About £ 800 fterllng. — Mr. Andrcae, in his Leitcn upon Switzerland, has given two engravings of this bridge, to which he has added a very accurate defcription of its mechanical con- ftrudion, communicated by Mr. Jetzler of ShafFhaufen. In this defcription he reprefents it as confifting of two arches, and refting upon rhe middle pier. Several perfons well (killed in architecture, maintained a contrary opinion ; and in the former editions I way induced to adopt it, from the following reafons. The architedl himfelf conftanrly maintained, that the bridge was not fupponed by the pier; his^fiepbew, who was employ- ed in ks conftru€lion, confirmed the fame afleriion ; and as, at firil, it did not even touch the pier, it muft therefore, at that time, have been confidered as forcning but one arch. I muft, however, candiily own, that in my fubfeqiient vlfits to ShafF- haufen in 1 785 and 1 786, I had reafon to change my opinion. At thofe periods the bridge was fupported on piles, in order to undergo Fall of the Rhine. 9 This morning we rode about a league, to thc^ Fall of the Rhine at Lauffcn. Our route lay over the hills which form the banks of the river : the environs are pidurefque and agreeable ; the river beautifully winding through the vale. Upon our arrival at LaufFen, a fmall village in the can- ton of Zuric, we difmounted ; and advancing to the edge of the precipice which overhangs the Rhine, we looked down perpendiculaily upon the catarad, and faw the river tumbling over the fides of the rock with amazin jjriolence and pre- cipitation. From hence we dcfcended till wq. were fomewhat below the upper bed of the river, and ftood clofe to the fall ; fo that I couJd almoft have touched it with my hand. A fcafFolding isi erefted in the very fpray of fhis tremendous ca^' taradl, and upon the mod fublime point of view : 7 ^^jindergo a thorough repair. Mr. Spengler, a nativp of the town, and lately returned from Rulfia, where he had paffed many years in the capacity of an architeft, fortunately difco- yered, that much ill-feafoned wood having been employed in its conftruaion, many of the timbers were abfolutely decayed ; and that o^e fide had greatly fwerved from its original direc- tion. This ingenious artift, after having expatiated on the fim- plicity and boldnefs of the defign, inf(»med me. that the bridge undoubtedly confifts of two MfhesTand that although Grubenman, of whofe abilities he^fpbke with deferved enco- mium, affeded to place the timbers in fuch a manner as to re- femble but one arch, and always afferted that it was not fup- ported by the pier ; yet that the vn^iiole fabric would undoubt- cdly have fallen, if that pier had been taken away. He obligingly lliewed me his plan for repairing the bridge, and for ftrengihening it by means of additional timbers, in order to render it able to fuppon its own weight, when the piles /hauld be removed. Vid. Briefe aus der ^hweiz nach Hannover ^efchriekm, Zunc, 1776. ^ —the I **V 10 LETTER 2. in! 1^1 ' ' 'III III 11 ill !itlt| ii — the fea of foam rufliing down— the continual / cloud of fpray fcattered to a great diftance, and to a confiderable height — in (hort, the magnifi- cence of the whole fcenery far furpaffed my moft fanguine cxpeflations, and exceeds all defcrip- lion. Within about an hundred feet of the fcafFolding, two crags rife in the middle of the fall : the nearefl is perforated by the continual adion of the river ; and the water forces itfelf through in an oblique direftion, with inexpreffi- ble fury, and an^ollow found. After having contemplated the awful fublimity of this wonder- ful landfcape, we defcended ; and croffed the river, which was extremely agitated. Hitherto I had only viewed the catarafl: ob- liquely ; but here it%pened by degrees, and dif- played anotu'^r pidurc, which I enjoyed at my ieifure, as I fat down upoi^ the oppcfite bank. The moft ftriking objeds were, the caftle of Lauffen, creSed upon the very edge of the pre- cipice, and projeding over Ae river ; near it, a. church and fome cottages ; a clump of cottages clofe to the Fall ; in the back ground, rocks, planted with vines, or tufted withjdianging woods ; a bea^ful little hamlet up<3nrne fum- mit, (kirted witn tilft|K ; the great body of water, that feemed to ruu^ut from the bottom of the rocks ; the tw^ cragf abovementioned boldly ad- vancing their Leads i4j|the midft of the Fall, and in the very point of its fteepeftdefcentj their tops fprinkled with (hriibs, and dividing the cataract into three principal branches. The colour of the Rhine,Ms extremely beautiful, being of a clear fea-green ; and I c6uld not but remark the fine ;€3eds of the tints; when blended with the white foam Fall cf the Rhine* It foam in its defcent. There is a pleafing view from an iron foundery clofe to the river, which is i^ammed up, in order to prevent its carrying avi^ay the works and neighbouring cottages : by means of this dam a fmall portion of the river is diverted, turns a mill, and forms a little filver current, gliding down the bare rock, and de- tached from the main cataraS. Below the fall the river widens confiderably into a more ample bafon ; at the Fall, the breadih feemed to be about three hundred feet. A^Jb its perpendicu- lar height, travellers differ : thofe who are given to exaggeration reckon it a hundred feet ; but I i\ ould imagine about fifty or fixty feet will be nearer the truth. 1 (loocLfor fome time upon the brink of the catarad ; beheld with admira- tion ; and liflened in lilence ; then croffed the river ; remounted rtiy horfe y and returned to Shaffhaufen. Some writers have afferted that the Rhine pre- cipitates itfelf in oi^fheet of water ; and, as I before obferved, from a perpendicular height of a hundred feet. In former ages this account might be agreeable to fact ; as it is probable that the fpace between the two ^nlywas once a le- vel rock, and confiderably l^rher; that the river has infenfibly undermined thofe parts, on which ^ it broke with the utmoft vTolence*: for, within the memory of feveral inA^itants of this town, a large rock hus given way, that has greatly al- tered the view. Indeed I am convinced that the perpendiculaj(fheight ofche fall is diminifhcd cver)fc year, by the conti^al fridion of fo larg- and rapid body of water; and have no doubt r but that the two crags, which now rife in the midft .«^i ,/ It LETTER midft of the river, will in time be undermined and carried away. The Rhine, for fomc way before the fall, even near the bridge, daflies upon a rocky bottom, and renders the navigation im- poffible for any kind of vcffel. I am, &c. Ifle of Rekhenau. n LETTER J/le of Rekhenau — Conjiance — Genevan Ejiahlijh* ment — IJle of Meinau — Lake of Conjiance. Wiifci L E T. Yi Conftance, July 24. ESTERDAY morning we quitted ShaflF- haufen, and crofled the Rhine at Dieffenhoffen, a fmall town in Thurgau ; a country dependant upon the eight ancient cantons : from thence to Stein the road lay by the fide of that river. Stein is an independent town under the protec- tion of Zuric, but governed by its own laws and magiftrates. At this place wc took a boat to carry us to Conftance. A little above the town of Stein the river widens confiderably, and form® the inferior lake of Conftance, or the Zeller See ; which is divided into two branches: from Stein to Conftance is about fixteen miles, and from the latter to Zell, its greateft breadth, about ten* A fine breeze foon carried us to the ifland of Reichcnau, which belongs to the Bifliop of Con- ftance : it is about three miles long, and on^ broad ; contains about fixteen hundVed inhabi- tants, all Catholics j three parifties ; one village j and a rich abbey of Benedictines, of which the biihop n 14 LETTER 3. tiiiiii' . Jl bidiop of Conftancc is abbot. The fuperior was exceedingly civil, and (hewed us all the relics and curiofitics of the convent : among the latter, was a carious tooth of Charles Le Gros. That Hionarch, who was emperor and king of France, and who poffeffed dominions as extenfive as thofe of Charlemagne, lived to want the common ne- c£flaries of life, and to depend for his fubfiftence upon the charity of an archbifliop of Mentz. He was publicly depofcd in 887, at a meeting of the principal FrencR, German, and Italian barons, whom he himfelf had fummoned : after having: languilhed a year, in extreme want and mifery, he died at a fmall village near Mentz, in Ger- many, and his remains were conveyed to this convent. The next remarkable ci^riofity, was an emerald, as it is called, of an extraordinary ^ize, which, according to the annals of the con- vent, was a prefent from Charlemagne. Take it« dimenfions, and then judge whether it can be an emerald : it has four unequal fides ; the long- ■eft of whidh is near two feet, and the broadeft about nine inches ; it is one inch thick, and 'Weighs about twenty-nine pounds. The fuperior valued it at £,4500 ; but if it is, as I conjeclure, nothing more than a tranfparent ^rttn/path-Jluor^ its value will be reduced to a few fhillings. Upon our return to the inn, where we dined, we found a preft:nt from the fuperior, more valuable than all the relics and curiofities of his convent ; two bottles of excellent wine, the growth of the ifland, which is almoft a continued vineyard. in the evening we arrived at Conftance ; the fituation of which upon the Rhine, between the two lakes, is moft delightful. I was much af- fefted with tlic folftary appearance of a town once z' Conjiance. 1 5 once fo flourifliino^ in commerce, and fo cele- brated in the annals of hiftory. A dead ftillnefs reigns throughout j grafs grows in the principal ftrcets ; in a word, it wears the melancholy af- pcd of being almoft totally deierted ; and fcarce- ly contains three thoufand inffabitants This city has endured a fad reverfe of fortune : it was formerly in alliance with Zuric and Baile ; and, fupported by thzit affiftance, had expelled the bifhop, and embraced the reformation. But the Proteftant cantons being worfted in 1351 ; and the league of Smalcalde, of which Constance was a member, being defeated by Charles V. the town was obliged to fubmit to the emperor, and to re-admit the Catholic religion. From this pe- riod it loft its independence ; and being negled- €d by the houfc of Auftria, fell by degrees into its prefent almoft annihilated ftate ; exhibiting to fome of the neighbouring Swifs cantons, an in- ftrudive contraft, which muft fenfibly endear to them their own invaluable happinefs, in the com- merce and liberties which they enjoy. We paid a vifit to the chamber where the council of Conftance was held in 1415, and had the honour of fitting in the two chairs, in which fat pope John XXIII ♦. and the emperor Sigif- mond ; if any honour cati be derived from a tur- bulent ecclefiaftic, and a perjured fovereign It was by a fentence of this council, that the cele- brated reformer John Hufs (having embraced the doarines of our Wickliffe, and trufting to the proteftion of the emperor, who violated his word) was burnt as an heretic. The houfg is ftill (hewn where he was feized, upon which is fixed* his ♦ He was deposed in this council. head. [-*|S^ 1$ LETTER 3. Conjiance. '7 'r^'fif head, carved in ftonc, but now almofl; deface^ ; with an infcription under it in German. Jerome of Prague, his difciple, had the wcaknefs to re- cant before the fame council ; but this weaknefs was amply compenfatcd by the greatnefs of foul with which he again retraced this recantation, and by the calm and intrepid magnanimity which he displayed in his lad moments at the ftake. From the top of the cathedral we had a fuperb view of the town, and of the two lakes ; with the rugged Alps of Tyrol and Appenzel, their tops covered with perpetual fnow. Conftance may again become a commercial town, through the permiffion granted by the em- peror, to the emigrants from Geneva, of fettling and carrying on their trade and manufafturcs, with very confiderable privileges. Meflrs. Ro- man and Meilly, watchmakers of Geneva, were the firft perfons, whom the troubles of their na- tive republic drove to Conftance. They received from the emperor the following immunities for themfelvcs and countrymen. The right of purchafing or building houfes ; free excrcife of religion, entirely independent of the Catholic clergy ;* the power of ereding a tri- bunal for the purpofe of deciding all affairs rela- tive to their manufadures and commerce ; ex- emption from ferving in the militia and quarter- ing foldiers ; from all contributions during the fpace of twenty years ; from duties on their tools and urenfils ; and the ftandard of the gold and f>lver employed in their manufafturcs to be inva- riably fixed. Thefe favourable terms, figncd on the 30th of June, 1785, attracted many fettlers to Conftance; and in my fecond vifit to this place, on the 25th of Oaober, 1787, I found that the titw colony of Genevans confifted of feventy fa- milies, comprifing three hundred and fifty per- fons -y amoifg thefe were fifty-four watchmakers, who had introduced the different branches of manufadure which belong to their trade. Four hundred watches were already finifhed, and above fourteen hundred more were preparing. The emperor has alfo granted to Mr. Macairc the convent of Dominicans lately fecularized, to- wards eftabliftiing a manufacture of printed linens and cottons. The refedory is appropriated for the chapel of the new colony. ^ I did not omit vifiting a fmall dungeon, about eight feet long, fix broad, and feven high, in which John Hufs was confined, and wherein I obferved the very ftone to which he had been chained. I entered it however with very differ- ent fenfations from thofe which I experienced in 1776, when this convent was the afylum of monkifti fuperftition. It is now the feat of trade and induftry : and it muft fuggeft a pleafing re- fledion to a phiiofophic mind, that a fucceffor of Sigifmond, who violated his word, fhould have configned to a reformed eftabliftiment that very convent in which the Bohemian ;iivine wa$ imprifoned, and from which he was triumphant- ly led to the ftake ; and that the moft enlarged principles of toleration ftiould be manifefted in the fame place, where pcrfecution was inculcated by precept and example. It is the triumph of rcafon and religion over bigotry ^d intolerance. I am juft returned from a pleafant expedition- to the fmall ifland of Meinau, in a bay of the fu- pcrior lake : this ifland, about a mile'in circum^ ference, belongs to the kniglrts of the Teutonic order. The bailif fliewcd us the houfc of the ^^^* *• G oommandcf. r ^ i8 LETTER ■I ■■1 iHSI commander, which is prettily fituated, and has a fine profpeft of the lake, but contains nothing remarkable but the cellars, which are*well (locked with wine ; an article from which the chief re- tenue of the commandcry arifes. Our good iriend the bailif was very free in offering it ; and we, not to appear infenfiblc of his civility, were conftrained to tafte feveral different forts, which he fucceflively prcfentcd, always praifmg the lafl: as' the oldefl: and mod exquifite. The wine was indeed excellent, the glaffes large, and a moft formidable row of enormous caflcs ftill remained untafted ; fo that, after having duly extolled fe- veral fpecimens, we found it expedient to decline the farther folicitations of our generous hoft : for, had we pprforme(i the whole ceremony, we muft have taken up our abode in the caftle for the night. July 25. We fet fail about two hours ago from Con- ftance. This fuperior lake, or, as it is fomctimes called, the Boden See, is about fifteen leagues in length and fix in its greatcft breadth : it is one of the great boundaries that feparate Swit- zerland from Germany. The • borders on each fide confift of gently rifing hills ; on th* left hand Suabia, and on the right Thurgau, with a va- riety of fcattered towns, villages, and mona- fteries : the form of the lake inclines to an oval, and the water is of a greenifli hue. I am now tvriting aboard the veffel ; and have been for fomc time in vain attempting to diftinguifh (what fomc travellers have affirmed to be dif- cernable) the waters of the Rhine from thofe of the lake : though indeed I was- before almoft convinced i Lake ofConJlance. ig convinced of the impoffibilky. For the river in Its courfe from the fuperior lake, being cxadly of the fame beautiful greenifh colour as the in- fcnor lake into which it flows ; it is evident that the one can never be diftinguifhed from the other. Probably upon its firft entrance into the fuperior lake it is troubled, and confequent- ly, tor fome way, its current may eafily be traced : but It purifies by degrees, and becomes an indif- 41?''^',°'^ "'^ g""^" ''O'ly of water. 1 his lake like ail the other lakes of Switzer- wiWr" "'"'l^'^^^'^y ^^^V^' in fummer than in iT of 'rh^ crcLMnftance owing to the firfl melt- mg of the fnow from the neighbourine moun tains : it abounds in fiih of all forts. ySav evening, in our expedititm to Meinau, there was Wh' " "'T, ""T^' ^"'^ '^^ lake was a fniooth a cryftal : a brifk gale has now raifed a fine curl upon thefurface ; and the furroundin^ ifufZ'/°™T ^!J ^^^'"Wage of the moft beau! tiful objeas. In Ihort, the feveral views which prefent themfelves are fo truly cnchand^^ as S ""?. H '"^'■.'S''" "^'"y '"°'"^n' 'hat my f^es a c called off from the delightful fcenes. V^u w[u a^:foi:;£t5,^/--p^^^-bidy^ Tours, &c. xZ:^' T^l f^"°«'I"g defcription of the great trout, which frequents all the Swifs lakes hnr -ore particularly abounds in the lake of 'Con E q"'rhi: T'^^T' ""y ''homar Pennant r, , * "'« igecies of trout is calirr? ;„ .k- neighbourhood ///.„i/«, and by L nn^us % ^ ' Lacu^r'u The K-«^ • ^ -^innasus, balnio C 2 £ na t'^ ' 'ft ao L E T T-E R 3- fin has twelve rays ; pcaoral, fourteen ; ventral Ld anal, twelve each. The "«der jaw, in ull- crown fifh, ends in a blunt hook. 1 he colour as low as the lateral line, of a deep blue bright- enlng as it approaches the line ; beneath that, of a £ry white ; all the upper part is fpoted ir- regularly with black. This kind grows to the weight of forty or forty-five pounds Thefe fifties quit the deep, of the lake in April, and go up the Rhine to depofit their fp^wn. 1 he Sha&tams of the Ihores form wears acrofs the river, in which they take them m their pal fege They are alfo caught in nets. Ihefifhery X from May to September ; the finiermen avoid taking any on the return as they are then vc?y lean and quite exhaufted. In fprmg and Smer their flelh is of a fine red, and very de- licate -, but after they b^^efpawned it turns white, and becomes very indifferent. They eed on fifli, worms, and infeds ; and are pamcu ar- Iv deftruftive to the graylings. '1 heir great enemy is the Pike, which will attack an lUankm SuTtCs as large 'as itfelf. For a further accoun Se reader may%onfult the elegant Ipthyolog'e bv Mr. Block, vol. iii. p. I55' w»^° >" ^^^ ^'% Sturalift that has given a fatisfaaory account of this gigantic fpecies. LE T- Canton of Jppenzel. .21 L E T T E R 4. St. Gallen-^Canton of Aj>penzel. I July a6. .. 7^^!^1 'f y°" ^'■°'" '^ ™i''ft of the Alps, under the Ihade of a grove of beeches, while a clear ftream of water, flowing at my feet, forms a natural cafcade down the rock. I have juft made a hearty meal upon fome bread and cheefc ; which found to be a moft delicious repaft. afl penzel ^"^ """"' °'" the mountains of Ap. We this day quitted St. Gallen, and walked to Appenzel. The country is fi^gularly Sd and romantic; confiftingofa continued ferics of hills and dales, vallies and moaintains, the tops of which are crowned with moft luxuriant paf- tares. I could not have conceived it poffibie without having been an eye-witnefs, tha any SS r""'" '^' '^''"•^ ^°™P^'"^ ^^^"''J have ei- nibited fo numerous a population ; the hills and vales being ftrewed thickly with hamletsfcat- tered at a fmall diftancc from each other ; Sd exaaiy placed in the very fpots which a man of , iLn^Te ffe t°he c'urrrnt's 'wS'"'^"' "''"°- / over Widges r'efcmbling rho^ltive oWervS ibme of the beft landfcapes, added to the beauty of ( 22 LETTER rSrSe - tllis delightful fpot I cannot em- ploy myfelf more to my fatisfaaion than by con ^rmyTK^-I too. my 1- of >^ ugon sToaUen agreeably fituated in the midft of a bay at the edfe of the lake, and at the bottom of a rifing hifl,'richly covered with wood and pa f- turaeel From Rofnach we went to St. Gallen, S Th;ie territory whereof does not exceed a mile and a half in circumference ; and inclua- Tng the own contains near eight thoufand mha- bifants. ITiere every thing -as ahve; all pe . fons wore the appearance of mduftry and =»ttm tv : exhibiting a ftriking oppofition to Con- ftance, which we had juft quitted. The abbot and town of St. Gallen are both a!- lies of the Swifs cantons, and each enjoys he privilege of fending deputies to the general det ?fte abbot of St. Gallen is titular-pnnce of the German Empire, and is chofen by the eventy two Benediaines, who compofe tnis chapter He formerly poffeffed the fovere.gnty of^ the town ; but the inhabitants (hook of^ his authori- ty, a^d became independent : and the various difputes which, fmce that period, have arifen be- tween the two rival parties, have been compro- mifed by the interpofition of the Swifs cantons. The town is entirely Proteaant, and its govern- mcnt arifto-democratfcal : the fu^eas of the »bbot (whofe territory is very exten(]»c) are moit- lY Catholics. It is remarkable, that the abbey ia which the prince rcfides, is fituated clofe to A Canton of Appen%el 23 the town, and in the midft of its territory ; as the latter is alfo entirely furrounded by the pof- feflions of the prince. The town owes its flourifhing ftate to the un- common induftry of the inhabitants, and to a very ^extenfive commerce, arifmg chiefly f)*om its ma- nufadures of linen, muflin, and embroidery. In a place fo entirely commercial, I was aftonifh- ed to find the arts and fciences cultivated, and literature in the higheft efteem. In the library there are thirteen volumes in folio, containing manufcript letters of the firft German and Swifs reformers. Luther ends a letter to Melandthon as follows : Pejiis ermm 'vkn/s, moriens ero mors tua^ Papa. Thefe letters would probably throw muchjight on the hiftory of the reformation. The library belonging to the abbey is very numerous and well arranged ; and, among a number of monkifli manufcripts, contains fede- ral of the claflic writers, which engaged my chief attention. To this library we owe Petronius ArbiteV, Silius Italicus, Valerius Flaccus, and C^intilian, copies of which were found in 1413: it was formerly very rich in curious manufcripts ; but feveral being borrowed, during the council of Conftance, by the cardinals and bifhops, were never returned. The tranfition from the abbot of St. Gallen to the canton of Appenzel will not appear abrupt, as the latter once belonged to the former : the irihabitants,^iowever, being loaded with exor- bitant and oppreflive taxes, revolted in 1400 ; and maintained their independence with the def- peratc "t( 54 LETTER 4. pcratc courage of a fpirited people, who fight for their liberties. In 1452 they entered into a perpetual alliance with feme of the neighbouring Swifs republics ; and in 1 5 1 j were admitted m- to the Helvetic confederacy : they hold the lait rank a^long the thirteen cantons. Before the reformation the whole canton was under one government ; but fince that period, part of the inhabitants having embraced the rro- teftant religion, and the other part continuing Catholics, violent difputes were kindled between them ; which, after tnuch contt^ft, were at length compromifed. ByAan agreement in 1597^^^^ canton was divided into two portions ; Rhodes Exterior, and Rhodes Interior : it was ftipulated, that the former (hould be appropriated to the Proteftants, and the latter to the Catholics. Ac- cordingly the two parties finally feparated, and formed two republics J their government, police, and finances, being totally independent of each other. Each diilrid fcnd^ a deputy to the ge- iieral diet : the whole canton, however, has but one vote, and lofes its fuffrage if the two parties are not unanimous. In both divifioas the fovc- reign power is vefted. in the people at large ; every male, who is pad fixteen, having a vote in their general affembly, held yearly for the crea- tion of their magiftrates and the purpofes of le- giflation : and each voter is obliged to appear armed on that particular occafion. Ihe Landam- man is the firft magiltrate : in each diftrift there are two, who adminifter the oflSce alternately, and are confirmed yearly. They have each a council, which poffeffes jurifdidion in civil and criminal caufes, has the care of the police, the management of the finances, and the general adminiftration Canton of Appenzel. ^ 2 c adminiftration of affairs. The Landamman re- • f vSfl^^' • " ' ""'^ '^^ ^'f'e'-. during tlie 4ar?n tt^. °"' °^°«^-' " banneref orUfeTS The Ri,ades Exterior h much larger, and morr IZ . '°'^f ?"*« ''/e m general more commercial are fin fT"' '*''" '^' (-'atholics -The ^7 are fuppofed to amount to thirty-fevcn thoufa^d numb HnVr'^r ^'"^"'^"^ = ^ extraorcS; or ar^d of ^f ' ""^°"' """^^'y n^ountain- and inacceflible rocks. But the induftrv of the ^bonL ; .hi- pt^-? K^^^^^^^ taxes Thr ■""' 'H ''"'■'^^"fome and arbitrary taxes. Ihefe circumflances, joined to the riS of partakmg of the legiflatioi, and of eleS their mag, trates, infpL them with fuch anf mted fenttments of their own importance and independence, as excite the moft adive aL vi gorous .nduftry: and thofe neceffaries to "vhich I'd t th '• " "°', t*^^'^"^' ''^ ^bundanti W P led by their neighbours, in exchange for mJ nufaflures and other articles of domeftic ro„ S; ofricf^^^^^^''^^'^^^^'''"^^^^^^^^ coniiits ot rich paftures ; and of courfe rh^ir Ifaw y I I a6 L E T T E R . 4. I faw in the Alps was near Appenzcl, which ex t/Jed over thr?e or four acres of ground. Part oT the river Sitler is diverted to turn the nuU Zh\ch is of the fimpleft eonftruaion. A large :Son the outfideLrks a '-g J ^d^^^^; in ; on which are fixed a number of cogs to raUe ^the hammers which beat th'= webs In the fame place are the boilers and other conveniences tor '^Thf onW 'Hill^ f°^ fP^""^"S tbe cottons by water which 1 faw in Switzerland, were near NeuchaS and Geneva ; but greatly inferior ui fize and ingenuity of machinery to thofe of Eng- *' Tke flourilhing ftate of the cotton X^ft^^; ry has rendered many pepfons in the Pro^e^ant diftrifts eafv in their circumftanccs, and even weaC f wealth is to be eftimatcd from the reneralftate of the natives, and not from the ^ SmpamWe view of dittant and greater opu lence in large commercial cities. Th^ v'l ag« of Trogen and Undevil announce, by their lu- pcrior neatnefs, the well-being of their inhabi- '' This canton contains no enclofed towns, but only two or three open burghs, of which Ap- ;fjj\ is the largeft il the Catholic, Trogen Uii- devil and Herifau, in the Proteftant didntt, and afew villages : indeed the whole foumry, ex- cept amongft the barren rocks, is almoft a con- In'ued village, being thickly covered with excl- lent cottages. Each cottage has its little terri- tory, or ! field or two of fine pafture ground, v^hich are frequently (kirted with trees, ihe mountains arc ?or theUft part beautifully wood- ed ., and the c.nton is fupphcd w«h -t^ m fuc^^ Canton of Appenzel. the ground otTJ^ /P""^ ^"^bJe from rock! ' ' ^ '°'""'°' '•* '•own the fides of a and convenience bein^ S -^ •'^?'^ ' "^^^n^f" owners : fuch a reS m ^'^'P^'^^J^^ ^^ the throughout as aS.5' 1^^"''"^^^ Prevailed the geVr^ ;ttemfo;thirK" ^""^'"S proof of effential artic le 1"! • '5" f ?P'^ P^X '° ^hat tivated mountains nVhT'","'? '^'" ""^'^^^^ ^"l" 1 thickly ^nST^-At;s::'2t^''''^ ^"' have been placed bv /jl •' r ^PP^^*" to / very fpots where thev J .!T"' ""^ '^^^ "> 'he • ing^ea, exSbit'l^re^'rrd; "°" ^"^ preffibly pleafincr - t r , 'andfcapes inex-P to independemVian, '?'!,'' '' '^ '^'y ''^'°°g^dl uniting f^r the ^r«; '"'^^Pf ''^"t but focial. and for the lenelT V'^^' °^ legiflation tics. ^'""'' Prcfervation of thf ir liber- origirSpScifro7:r °' ?^ ^f ''^'''^-'^' ^^-^ ferved ; and fS t . P'^°"' ''^^ '' ft'" P^e- long beards: th t^'S JdTh"' •%'^""% '^^^^ ?ntient patriarchs. T^atiles of ,T °^ '^^ m common with th» ■ u "^''^es of this canton, pofl-efs a natural ££1? ''' 'r""'''"''' equality, which nS ' ''"'* P^*^"'"' tone of own ind;pende„ 'e^' %T ' T^^j^.^^^'k of their original humou? ^nd ^^ ''^° ^^/P'^^ ^ ^""^^ of quicknefs oTrc' rtee T/""f ^'."' ^°^ g^<^^^ which render thdr .f' r'^ • ''"''" '^^'"« of wit, able and interefting!°'^'"'^"°" extremely agree! • TuffenrthThir^/PP'"^!' '^= P^^^'^ through > the birth-place of Ulric Grubenman; whom fli LETTER ;| . 1 • ivhom I mentioned in a former letter * : he hai been dead fome years : but his abilities and his {kill in praaical architeaure are, if I may ufc the expreiTion, hereditary in his family. W€ inquired for one of the fame name, who was cither his brother or his nephew, whom we found at the alehoufe ; his ufual place of refort when he has no particular employment. He is a heavy, coarfe-looking man, dreffed like ^ a com- mon peafant ; has a quick and penetrating eye, and a furprifmg readinefs of converfation. Wc told him that we were Engliftimen, who were making the tour of Switzerland ; and that we could not pafs through Tuffen without defiring to fee a man who was fo much celebrated for his Ikill in architefture. He ftruck his bread, and replied in German, " Here you fee but a boor." Upon our talking with him about the bridge of iShaifhaufen, in the building of which he was employed, he affured us, that it does not reft upon the middle pier, but is in reality a finglc arch. Near Appenzel w£ obferved an old man with venerable white hair hanging over his ftoulders, who looked like a fubftantial farmer : he inquired with a tone of authority, but with perfea civility, who we were ; and upon our alking the fame queftion refpeding himfelf, of our guide, we were informed, that he was the Landamman^ or chief of the republic. Happy people, the nature of whofe country, and the conftitution of whofe government both equally oppofe the ftrongeft barriers againft the intro- duftion of luxury ! • Sec p. 8. P. S. Doaox ^M Canton of Appenzel. ^ in L« a^un7 ^'"^""^^ of St. Gallen, found not mentioned bvH^U ^/'•.«^/.range of mountains, enriched with beauti- ful meadows, and dotted with cottages, I arrived at its bou;idary ; here the fcene fuddenly changed into a wild foreft, confifting chiefly of pines, without the leaft appearance of any habitation. The road is in molt parts not more than three feet broad j and is cither paved.with large uneven pieces of rock, or formed of thick Hakes laid clofely together : but as the ground is in many parts fofter than in others, thefe ftakes in fome places fmk deeper, and by this means form a fucceflTion of uneven iteps. The mountain by which wedefcended into th- plain, is very fteep; which circumflance, added to the unevennefs of the Galley of the Rhine. ^, fn'i^!,-^'' 1^?''"' ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^nd defcent exceed and the fublime, and are ftruck w th th ^''""^ ncfs of wild, uncultiv'ed'nat^t^w^^^^^^^^^^^^ I walked (lowly on, without envying mv mm penzeT rJfin ^ K 7 '" "^gg'nefs to thofe'of Ap- remarkable difference : for a thoutrh the afcenH }et the variety of the fcenes had given me fpiritV But n^'^h "^//^"fi'''^ of the IcarfSe' But in the plain, notwithftanding the fcen^rJ was ftill beautiful and piaurefque I faw i? ^ the whole way ftrctching befoVl me Ind LT" room for frefli expeftatfons : I wTs Lot fherefo^re d fpleafed when I arrived at Oberried, after a wa k ^n U "'rr''" miles, my coat flunrupon mv we rortunatcly procured a narrow cart • m J ut;ucvc we were not much at our eafp The P ,1 m 33 LETTER II The Rheinthal is a bailHagc belonging to Ap- pcnzel and the eight antient cantons, which aU iernately appoint a bailif. The people are of both religions, but the Proteftants are the molt numerous, Wanenfta who is o-uiltv nf /':™/"^- Whether a bai. 'nenjbers of the byndka e f Tuf • '^°^ ^^' the o^ open to corruJtS^i ? L»% .' '" '^^f^^^^nc,, ^PPeals renders them in ^" '^^ ^^P^^ec of ^^l ^° 'he poorer Tnh"h;!"'"^"^" impraftica- *'''ch cannot be a„fw" "^ . ''' ^"^'^'ons • fon w-n • r anlwcred but hv o iuftier" -f--ed concerning, thefe'courts'^.^ Vol. I. jj We ,-0mt LETTERS- We arrived late at ffS^.^^ of Sargans, it n incorporated mto the b 1 • g .^^. ^ but enjoys Several dAma pm g^ ^^^^ town derives its ^xiitence ro ^ ^^^^^.h nxerchandile tranfported f om ^o ^^^^. J^^;^„ ,,. the Grifons to Italy- i" ^ merchants; cafions the frequen refort oM ^^^^ ^^. ^ and that language is under y ^^^^.^^^ ^^^ inhabitants. Our landloui p ^^ ^^ has been very accurate m h.^ ^^ ^^^^ j^i^^^i- queftions relating to ^h^ J" j^^ ^^^.^^ i,s depen- dants, the government ot the ^^^^^ ^^^ dence upon the bailit, a_ ^ |;^ innkeepers la is this a matter of '^^f^^ , and are frequent- Switzerland are moftly ^"W'''''^^^^^ . and, from ly members of *e/ove ragn ounc ; ^^^ ^^.^^ L very nature « ^^^^^^^ of their particular in general are ^^^ f ^ ^ad a long converfa- conftitutions. 1 ?=''''= J' (....^us, who has fur- tion with a native of ^^^ ;.^^ .^ i^.ion nittied me with ^^^^'\,^ ofe vifiting to- to that canton : which P^^P ^^.^ ^^^ ^^^^^ morrow. _ 1 t"^";°;' r,„ procuring as many of thefe V"f°""Xent Pe fons of all ranks; as 1 can from 4'^^''u' [^iih the written ac and then comparing them witn counts. Wefen, July 29* The lake of Wallenftadt is about t^lve-v^^^^^ in length, and two m breadth .1 s ^^^ bounded by high mountains, ^^"P^/"^, ^e- and weft. From this <\^"^";";,,',,^''beginning .ally blows from ^hofe two janer g^^^^^ . at break of day, and continuing i^ ^^^^ i Lake of Walknjladt. 3^ £!^ '^'"Ses from weft to eaft till fun-fet : this breeze is very convenient for the tranfpnrtation and r.n^ 'u'^ '■"'^." '^°^" f--^"^ the mour.tair.s, affured h 7. '^' "^^18^^'°" dangerous. We were aflured by the inhabitants, and by the watermen who rowed us from Wallenftadt' to this plac" conft.nf u'"^ abov^mentioned was generally c'gh , and the wind was diredly contrary the whole v^ay, blowing from weft to eaft^^Thc r^l ' n" I' '•"."' ^'^ '^^^^y- o^'ercaft, and Son ""^ ''"^' P"''''P' '^^' occafional .J!^^-t^V^ °^ '''° ''•'" '' tincommonly wild and p.aurefque and affords a perpetual /ar e v of beautiful and romantic fcenes. ()„ the Hde of Glarus the mountains which form its bor ders are chiefly cultivated ; enriched iith wood or hne meadows ; and ftudded with cotraee. churches and fmall villages ; the Alps of Gla^rus nfing behind their tops covered with fnow On the other fide, for the moft part, the rocks aregrotefque, craggy, i„acceff,ble, and pcrpcndi cular : but here and there a few c'ultivat'e dTct of land are formed at the very edge of the lali and at the bottom of thefe very rScks • exhibit' 2 a beautiful contraft to the barrenn'efrabo e and around them. Numberlefs water-falls occafioned by the mehing of the fno ws, fall dowr; he fides of the mountains from a ver'y confider" ab height, and with an almoft inconceivable . variety; fome of them feemin? to olid^ gently in circular direftions ; others formtg vaft torrents, and ruflnng into the lake wi"h ■ ^ ^ noife ■^ i 3« LETTER 5-' noifc and violence : all of them <^^a"g'"g J^^^' form and their pofition as we m^o^''''^^'';^ ceded from them. The lake is exceedingly clear, dcej. and cold, and, as we were informed, is "^TlreT'nothing remarkable in this plac^,; bcipg a fmall village fuuated almoft upon the pofn? where the Mat iffues from th^^f ^f^S lenftadt : that little river is joined by jhe Linth. and both united fall, under the name of Limmat, into the lake of Zuric. I am, &c. ■Canton of Glarus. L E TTE R 6. ne Canton of Glaruf. 27 4 LETTER Ti Glarus, Julj 29. Suab a : the npnnU ^ ^^"^ ot Seckinguen in fiderable ^fS^T'^ ^"^J^y-d -ery con° government Serfhe '^T^'T'} ^^'^ °f 'n^yor. appointed by the Ih"/"'''^" ^^ ^ ^ong theTnhabitanfs^ Towards t'h ""T '='^°^^" of the thirteenth centurv fh '^^ ''"^' c°d I- obtained the excluS'^ ' -T^^'"' ^O'^^'ph -d not long aw!iS^ht fof Srf j;"^"^ purchafed the mavoralfV V" ."'^"» 'saving become heredita^y^ re Ijit J .'*^\'?^d gradually whole civil and Jdiciaf^ fh '" ^'' P"'"^" ^be Jat prince, and'"h " irdS7^ .^"-^ingly dukes of Auflnp ^1^1 ^efcendents the ruled over tt'whh a^aS /'; ^^''P^^' ''"'^ Schweitz, aflifted by Zunc r^ '^^ x^° ^35° • Underwalden, expeiLd the' l^™'' F"' ^"'^ -ton of Glarus^, 'ut^.^^^^l.^^ jhe niQcracy. I 3« LETT E R 6- 4 "i rhrus then entered into a perpetual mocracy. .V'^/"'; ,;" -rs and was received alliance .uh »U fel JfJ^ J^^ l;,^ fo„,c reftric into the Vielvetic cont^deracy ^^ tK,:.., -hich -'^^^^^/.^^ ton but is now the that ume it v.as the fixth " °"; ^^^^3 ^s they arecalleJ; being lo uiuin-^ ^^^^^ the acceffion of Zu.c^ and B . nc m^.5 ^^^^^^^ than a century ehp ed ^; ^,,, have was admitted. Ihele *"";' j^^ ft^e others ; alfo leveral P"v^l-^f ^ ^^P^"'^ <^°fome particular the latter having i^-]^^[fZ Z the Helvetic rettri£tions,-upon their lecepiiou league. • • „ed their liberties '''1 ?rftdl .^? " beTthe Auftrians niade unmokftcd till .,8J, ^ J ^, ^ force fuffi- .n irruption ^^^^^ ;^^;^^X"hought, totally to cient, as they f "°5^f "^^l„t,y, In^ fubdueit; P'l^''S'ng^l^;;°7^£t,hree hundred the inhabitants. It ^'^^ l*^^^ ^^fted by thirty Switzers, re.iued «"« [^ej advan- Auflrian army : the f^^^^^'J^Vtbe latter, to tageoufly upon t^e '-^Xd, "t a village call- the number °^/f f^J^^^^^^^^ Auftrians began ed Ntefels. In tnis iituau ,, , retreat the attack; but were foonco-P^l^dt« with great Ff P^'f °"',h/h'iehts n this mo- poured upon them from h h^ ghtj .^^^,^^^ ^^^^^ ment of ^^"f"^'""'.^^;^ redoubled fury, that upon the enemy with lucli reao j ^^gnfe thev brol.e their ranks; -."^' ^[^^^[X f"om the S£l J^ Sna a^n enemy fo much upe- rior in number (inftances of which are j^^^^ Canton of Glarus^ jO means rare in the hiftory of Switzerland) render • the wonderful combats of Marathon and Platsea, uhen the Greeks repulfed the numerous hofts of the whole Perfian empire, perfedly credible. 1 he fame love of independence, the fame dread of llavery, and the fame attachment to their country, animated the rcfpedive nations to the fame deeds of heroifm ; and in both inftances vidtory v^as followed by the fame glorious con- fcquences : for the Swils, as well as the Greeks, owe the rife and prefervation of their liberties to that magnanimous and determined valour, which prefers death to living under the fervile domina- tion of an arbitrary defpot. The people ftiU ce- lebrate the anniverfary of this vidory, which infured their independence : and 1 faw near the village of Naefels feveral flones, with no other infcription than 138^: an infcription which no more requires explanation, to an inhabitant of the canton, than the glorious sera of 16%^ to an Englilhman. ' ^ In the fixteenth century, the reformation was introduced into this canton, but not exclufivelv • both religions are tolerated, and the two {^^t^ live together in the greateft harmony : an union the more remarkable, when we confider the fatal quarrels that have been kindled in Switzerland on account of religious tenets ; and that in Ap- renzel the divifion between the two fe£ls is diijiuaiy marked by. their inhabiting different ciiltrids, and living under feparate governments. In feveral parts of this canton, the Proteftants and Catholics fucceflively perform fervice in the fame church ; and all the offices of fiate are ami. cably admmiftered by the two parties. During, the prefent and preceding century, the Protef- tant^ i 'mm''. I* ^ 40 LETTERS. tants have incrcafed confiderably in number; and their induftry, in every branch of commerce, is greatly fuperior : an evident proof how much the tenets of the Roman Cathohc church fetter the genius, and deprefs the powers of '^Thc government is entirely democratical : eve'ry perfon at the age of f.xteen has a vote m the Landfgen:eind, or general affembly, which js annually held in an open p am. 1 his affc mb y ratifies new laws ; lays contributions ; enters into alliances ; declares war ; and makes peace. 1 he Landamman is the chief of the republic, and is chofen alternately from the two feds ; with this difference, that the Proiejiant remains three years in office, the Catholic only two. Ihe manner ot cleaion is as follows : five candidates chofen by the people draw lots for the charge. Ihe other great officers of ftate, and the bailifs, are taken alfo by lot from a certain number of candidates propofed by the people. The executive power is veiled in the council of regency, compofed ot forty-eight Proteftants, and fifteen Catholics : each fcft has its particular court of juftice ; and, when there are any law-fuits between two perfons of different religions, the cafting voice among the five or nine judges, who are to determine the caufe, is always of the fame religion as the defendant. Cattle, cheefe, and butter, conftitute the principal commerce of the canton. The cattle arc fed in fumr.er upon the Alps : and it is com- puted that ten thoufand head of large cattle, and four thoufand (heep, are paftured during that feafon upon the mountains belonging to the can- ton. Canton of Glarus ., tori. The inhabitants alfo manufadure Unen and muflins. fl.^^'"°"? u*^ .^''P°"' "" confiderable article is Hate ; with which the canton abounds. The principal quarry is in the valley of Sernft, where fargc ilates are dug up that ferve for tables. i hele quarries, as I am informed by Mr. David rennant, once furnilhed Great Britain with flates ror writing, or accomptants flates : but this trade |s entirely loft. Of late they have' been f!c^^rA from the great flate quarries in CaernarvonAire the property of Lord Penryn ; and with fuch fuc' eels, as bids fair to extend this article of com- merce over mofl part of Europe. J"'r 30. I am juft returned to Glarus, after havintr made an excurfion towards the extremity of the canton : it is entirely enclofed by the alps, ex- cept towards the north ; and there is no other entrance but through this opening, which lies between the lake of V/allenftadt and the moun- tains feparating this canton from that of Schweitz Paflengers indeed may in fummcr traverfe thefe alps to the Grifons on one fide, and to Uri on the other : but thefe paths are in winter abfolute- y impradicable. At the entrance abovemen- tioned, the canton reaches, from the banks of the Lmth to the fartheft extremity of its alps about tnirty miles ; forming a valley, which be-' comes narrower as you advance, and is fcarcelv more than a mulket-fhot in breadth at the burgh ot Glarus. It afterwards opens by degrees : and about a league from the laft-mentioned burgh, is ' divided by the Freyberg mountains : at the point of 42 LETTER 6. of this Jivifion the f*'o rivers, Linth and Scrnft, " We continued through the largeft of thefe vallies ; which, though very narrow, is exceed- inely populous. You have been at Matlock la Derbvlhire, and I remember your admiration ot its beautiful and romantic fituation : tne fcenery of this valley is of the fame call, but infinitely more piaureique, more wild, more varied, and more fublime. The Linth is much broader and more rapid than the Derwent ; and the hil ocks of the Pcake are mere mole-hills to the alps ot Glarus. Ti^e llupendous chains of rocks are abfolutely perpendicular, approach one another fo near and are fo high, that the fun may be faid tofet, even in fummer, at four in the afternoon. On each fide are numbers of thofe water-falls wc fo much admired during our paffage over the lake of Wallenftadt ; one in particular, near the vil- lage of Ruti, that foamed down the deep fides ol a mountain, from the midft of a hanging grove of -rees. I was fo captivated with thele enchant- ing fcenes, that I could not help Hopping every moment to ad:nire them : and our guide, not conceivii>g it poffible that thefe delays could be owinp to any other caufe than the lazmefs ot his horfe, never failed to ttrike the' poor bead ; and continually .awakened me oui ot my rap- turous contemplations ; and it was fome time before I could make him comprehend that I flopped by choice, and wilhed to continue my own pace. After having rode about ten indes, we quitted our horfes and walked. Near Leu- crelbach, a coniiderable rivulet is formed by two ftreams, burlliug from the-groundat the toot o a mountain, which after a tew paces unite, and * Ca7iion of Glarus. fall into the Linth : befide thefe two princlDal branches, feveral fmaller fprings, and numberS httle fountains, gufh from the rock.-The clear nefs of the flreams ; their rapidity and niurmurin; whet; t:T ^'^^ ^^4 ovc'r the p^ S wnence they ,ffue ; the rude rocks above • the rich meadows and fcattered hamiets-ali toVerher form an aflemblage of the mod hvelv and plea fing o^«fs that ever entered into a belufe , I am informed by David Pennant, Efq that falmons force their way annually from the fd as high as this nver, to depofit their fpawn tLI progrefs is up the Rhine, and out of that nohL [r.h'' '^" t"' '"'^ "^^°"^'h the lake of ZurL into the Linth ; a courfe of many hundred mileT ber and Odober, and about the fize of feven teen or twenty pounds weight ruines vutfi ail the violence of a torrent • anH came at length to an amphitheatre of moun tains where the valley ended : on our rilhNhand' a fall more confiderable than any wc had ye feen n a 1 Z iT Pf P-^'^"'-'y over a bir oS m a large body of water ; the alps on each fiH^ crowned with inacceffibi; forefls^, and eo e ed *.th everlaftmg fnow ; before us a pytaScal "lountain, bare and craee-v • anH fhi i • r- c,\jr,.. -I r ,,&&}' and the glaciers of Olan, clofing the view. Here the vKlley and he habitable pa« of the canton, terminate We S VT \m P'l"' '"'^ ^^c'ending th ;ugra tSan h °^ beech and pines, continued more than an hour mounting a very fteep and rugged path, nil we came to tHe Panten-Bruck, a briSe over the cataraft that form, the Linth,' whichls ' here f-J^^ 4+ LETTER 6. I 1 J here called the Sand-bach : it roars from tbc glacier down the ftcep mountain in one unbroken fall ; and, a little way before its arrival under the bridge, works itfelf a fubterraneous paffagc through the rock, where it is loft only to appear again with increafcd violence and precipitation. The bridge is a fmgle arch of ftone, of about feventy feet in length, thrown over a precipice of above three hundred feet in depth. It feryes as a commuication with the upper alps, and is the paffagc for the cattle which are fed there during the fummer months ; on the other fide fome goats came jumping around us, and fee med to wel- come us to their dreary habitations. Ihefe mountains are covered with a great variety of rare plants, which made me regret that I had not purfued my botanical ftudies. As I leaned upon the parapet of the bridge, and looked down into the chafm beneath, my head almoft turned giddy with the height. The rock, down which the 8and-bach drives, is compofed of Hate. After we had continued fome time admiring the fub- lime horror of the fcenery, we defcended into the valley, and made a hearty meal upon fome ex- cellent bread, honey, butter, and milk, which a neighbouring cottage fupplied. As the can- ion almoft entirely confifts of rich meadows, the milk and butter are delicious ; and the honty of thofe mountainous countries is moft exquifite. Nothing delights me fo much as the infide of a Swifs cottage : all thofe I have hitherto vifited, convey the livclicft image of cleanlinefs, eafe, and fimplicity ; and cannot but ftrongly imprefs upon the obferver a moft plcafmg conviQion of the pjeafant's happlnefs. If Canton of G/arus. ral equalitrand i^^^^^^ ""Z '^"" ^^ ^^e gene- Appenzel, rbuiltl^f wtS^tl^'^r^ '' compaft, with preaf „-.„?? V ^^* ^°'"^' and very low, and fSl/ k ^°"{^ '°°f' '"^^t hang foundation Thfnl.^'T'^i''^ '^'^ «f thf keep off the rtw i / f"^'^ "'"'^ '" accords furprifin Jv'Jff, ' uT "' finff"larity, of the country 4^eT'^'''^''T''^"' ^'''^"^f^ bitants in the^prin^p ,tthf at oT'T T'^' greateft number ^ he conf"''^ ^"l^ ^^ '^- ftates, notwithftanL ^°'"'""n'ty i thefe little democratiS confttui "''""' '^'^''^^ of a large /hare of our a^'tion"^' J""'^ ^"^ ^ general independence 7nH ^^"^"1 ''berty, arbitrary taxes Sl.^ an exemption from penfatc for a ";„? of h r"^' a^''^ amply com. introduced by^o^'etfat rux^'S^'" "' It IS only n thefe Ana II rl^ m- ^* ^o^evcr, ftatc of focietv thrl t- ^]'".' ^"'' '" ^"ch a cracy can £ pla e \ h"^ fr "'^^' ''^'"°- chine of government t r A "'1'^.°"^'^ '^^ '"a- ;be variety' o/ whTd STo'St t^'^' ""' tlOn ; yet it is nnt „^ n" , P"' " ^^^ mo- ftouldLfuddenand"r^"^ ''^^^ «s decif.ons is no fear o? an invafior T' V ^°'' ^' '^ere no conquefts dther to r^' t "'' "' '^^ P^P'^ bave principal policy con/l in °- '"^ ■'^'^^''^ > 'beir dependence id Tn 1 r ™^'"'aming their in- quility. ' ^'^ '" Prefervmg the public iran- * The 46 LETTER 6. The police is well regulated throughout Swit- zerland ; and even in thefe democratical ftates, liberty does not often degenerate into licentiouf- ncfs : we may except, perhaps, the day of cheir ge- neral affemblies, when it is impoffible to prevent fome degree of confufion in a meeting where there is fcarccly any diftindion of perfons ; and where every peafant confiders himfelf as equal to the firfl: magillrate. Our hoft is an open-hearted, honeft Swifs : he brings his pint of wine, fits down to table with us, and chats without the lead ceremony. There is a certain forwardnefs of this kind which is in- fupportablc when it apparently is theeffcdof im- pertinent curiofity, or fawning officioufnefs ; but the prefcnt inflance of frank familiarity, arifing from a mind confcious of its natural equality, and unconftraincd by arbitrary diftindions, is highly pleafmg ; as the fimpie demeanour of un- fophifticatcd nature is far preferable to the falfe refinements of artificial manners. I am, &c. LET- Ehfidlin. 47 LETTER 7. I^e Mbey of Ein/,dUn-.Rapferfch^vl. w Einfidlin, July 31. »he connTrf S ^f \^^^^ this part of to Einf.dlir/ anH nn " ""'^'"^ "^ pilgrimage among the CathoI.V, v^-r^?^ "'"^'^ devotion BenediaiS n thetn^nT."'?"'?^ ^^''^^ °f owes its celebSv to th " • °^ fc^^^-^'f^, which ^called, ofT ^^i ^^Mr '""i"'^' f'' tales they relate nf Vh» •^' ^"^ "diculous ment of this abbev '?%°"g'" ^n^ aggrandize- • robbers. o^^ J i. II I 48 LETTER 7. robbers. But (hall I tell you, or, (what is more to the purpofe) will you believe me if I tell you, that this murder was difcovered by two crows, who followed the affaflins to Zuric, where they were fclzed and executed ? Soon after, the dead body of St. Meinrad of courfe works miracles ; and all the world pilgrimifes to his bones. The fanaity of this place being thus eftablilhed, fomc one (for whether it were St. Benno or St. Ebcr- hard, or what other faint I cannot precifcly deter- mine) conftruded another chapel, which he dedi- cated to the Virgin, and laid the firft foundation of the abbey ; having bequeathed for that purpofe his whole fortune : and the pious fund was foon confiderably augmented by fubfequent donations. Shall I tell you alfo, that in 948, Conrad, bifhop of Conftance, as he was going to confecrate the chapel, heard a voice from heaven, affuring him, that God himfelf had confecrated it ? Whatever was its-origin, and whoever was its founder ; crouds of pilgrims refort hither from all quarters to fidore the Virgin, and to prefent their offer- ings : and it is computed, that upon the mod moderate calculation, their number amounts yearly to 100,000. The circumjacent country was formerly a continued foreft, which fince the ereftion of the abbey has been gradually con- verted into rich paftures and beautiful meadows : and this is a miracle which the Virgin, in a certain fenfe, may be truly faid to have per- formed. Auguft I. I have juft been vifiting the abbey, the chapel of the Virgin, and her immenfe treafures. The church of the abbey is a large and magnificent building. I Einjidiin, S /"/?' ^u' ."^y'^^' ^ remarkable fpeclmen of «'c .Jl pUna re^iffio feccatorum omnium orculpi « ^,,^. int7wtfchT wf ^^'^' '^'r -'■^'^ five holes. finfferT^L '^"'/everal perfons thruftin^ their. the image of 'JheVfrdnwifh " '^l^^^P^' ''' of Lor4o in L^I/of cot enTnc^'V^f'^'^ confifting of fifty.two diffirnTfuits ""'^°'^ . -Ine riches of the treafury are imm-nf^. . tammg numberiefs offerings of tolTfilv!' ; precious (tones, arrangedTn hfmoft r hI .' manner; alfo ikull , The evening veft„^ ^P^^cb.y,, Augufl .. ' Jake of 7'' '^'^' ^hree t ef f'' • ""^''^ «'« • "five and beautifu) the M ' ^'""^P"'^ ^as ct . H on .''^'-'""^ ^"". vvhich IClf' '"'^ '^^ tints " "' very much improve Tl""""""^ t^e ho- ^''•^ arrived at the hkf?h "' "''="■"'«. When 3"d, throwina tl u ' ^^ '""«n berran tn r • another fj ^'^"'' ^croli the wfter f "^^ ' ■ affeain^ n/ "'°'"^ '"''J indeed t ' ^°'"™^'i S •• /--S d";af ,1 "---ftarttnt - '^i''-^-ly.tuated?---5^^Theto;: J^ontory. i '»! I i i I 5» LETTER 7- Zuric. M fnrmcrlv threw itfelf under the pro- '"^"'^^'f Uri bchwci z, Underwalden, and teaion of Un, senwcu^, ;tc nrivileces : but that period R^PF^^^^^^^^^^' anSciarus; the the P^oteaion of Zuric Be ne an ^^^^^ latter having P^eferved its r^gh by i .^^ SVi°°^». \ league in circumference, and comprehends three parifhes. Yours, &c. LETTER 53 i- E T T E R 8, Town and Canton of Zuric. ■Zuric, Auguftj. &^fSt\r Rtt^^^^^ -^ ^''^ treat their guefts in /;^PP*^'^'^^wy'. who feldom -as one of'thiS grSt 3T" ^ ™-"^-- ^ galed us with eve^ry vaLtt JfiL'"''. '^^^ ^«- the lake and the nlig^T^K' ^'^.r^'s"''? The convent ftands upon the ed« ofV''°""'^- ?nd commands an a^reeah ^^ r ^\^ ^''^ '^^ter, 's by far the pleaffnlft ^ "'P'^ " *^ '''^rary f'nall, and yet not inconvenien h f T"'t' "« does not feem to conEl ' "' <=^eanhnefs n^oral or rehgious obfcrv „«, 1 T!. f '^^'^ Jiabit of the order is \\\fi\ ^"^^^^^ t^e very Pofe, as they wear noZv? a''? • ^"^ '^^' P"^ •clothed iu a coar?e k.nd of H °'^^"^^' ^"^ are ;-hich trails upon the toun^''^ '^'"^get robe, (anaity ! as if di t couM K ^""^"^^ '^^^ of ?eity. I reflefted ^l\t- ^T^''^^' '^ '^^ that I was not born a mem b^? ^^''^^aaion, . Catholic church; asperEoTth °^ '^' ^^'"^n ' Pernaps the commands of a parent. ¥ mSm I • 5+ LETTER 8. parent, a fadden difappointment or a momenta n- fit of enthuf.afm, might have fent me to a con- vent of Capuchins, and havp wedded me to dirt and fuperI\ition for life. After dinner we took leave of our hofts, and departed for Zuric by water : the lake >s near ten leagues in kngth, and one in breadth. 1 his bodv of water is of an oblong form and not near fo large as that of Conftance ; but the borders are ftudd?d more thickly with villages and towns The adjacent country is finely cultn-ated and well peopled ; and the fiuihern part of the lake ap- pears bounded with the high ftupendous moun- tains of Schweitz and Glarus : the fcenery is pic turefque, lively, and diverhfied. Zuric was formerly an imperial city, and ob- tained from the emperor Frederic 11. very confi- derable privilege. •, which were acknowledged ■ and augmented by feveral of his fucceffors. Ihe civ dfar between fhe magiftrates and the people, in W'^c, nearly reduced the city to rums; but the former being banilhed, the citizens, in 1337^ • eftabliflied a new form of government which xvas confirmed by the emperor Louis of Bavaria. The exiles, after feveral fruitlefs attempts, were at length readmitted ; but it being difcovered tha\ they had engaged in a confpiracy =^g^mfl the citizens they were put to death. In confequencc of this tranfaftion, the nobles in the neighbour, hood took up arms againft the town : the latt.r after having ir.effeaually applied for affiftance o the emperor Charles IV. formed an alliance with Lucerne, Uri, Schweitz, and U'^.'^"*"'?;"' '" was admitted a member of their confederacy. This event happened in the vear ^35*- K^. four cantons yielded the preeminence to Mg . Zuric. p S3 tent both of te;rito?y t dT^ confiderable in ex- In the fame yeT Sk 1^^^" "//^ '« Berne, cantons agai'nft Albert duket? An Jr"'^' ^T befieged the town, and wasX^^rfdt S'gS verted by the arguments ofld^e '' oiV^' fpint of meeknefs mnW. ^ ^ '^^^'^'^' 'hat ■ which are the Z:;aerftt"rrue S •r^'^"'^' and, amid all the difn, r!o V '^"'^'^"y 5 thcrans and the refnrt'^^ 1 H'"^^'' ^^ ^u- ilant advocate for peace and^"''^"-',. "^^ ' ^°»- appears indeed to S'eL"'"?tf'^- "e well from that narrot k- ^" P^'^^^'y ^^^e, as diaindion between pol^^'K ^'^'^'^^es'no ence, and obieas of Zl Vn^'"'''"*differ. from that ove bearYn?nrfd. J-'?P°"^'^« ' «^ lently condemns th"LSn;S''t "'^"'^ " ^^°- «o itfelf infallibility SXatlv'' '^"'"^^ ^--d. it was hi; pcrflTon'Z'T'-J^ Chrxilmis agree in tu T 'J"^^' provided they oSt ^„!^eek ; ^l """^ -f'"''^' ^"^^les ; "pon fubjearief U^ ?' ''"^ ^"y '^'^^rence r J'^*-'=' 'eis uncontrovertihI*> nr.^ i • , do not neceffarily influenr^ m^ . ' "'^ *'"ch TJIriV '' • . "'""ence morals. U'jVI r'^"'"^''' '"'2S born Ian i ,.q W ildhaufen, a finall viliacre ;„ ,1 % ? ^"^^4, at ^d, in the twentieth fea "of hi?''''"'^"'-Sh ' pointed minifter of Gllrnc p^^^^ "^^^ ^P" Publication of the^aleoS , ^^'" ^^^^'^ '^^ which was the r^„r. • °^'"'^"'g^°"s by Leo Xr tJie more immediate caufe of the re- formation. I I 56 LETTER 8. 3 formation, Zuinglc had expofed at Glarus feveral fuperftitions of the church of Rome; and he gained additional credit, by prcachmg at Lm- fidlin againft vows, prilgrimages, and oftenngs. After the pubhcation of the fate of indulgences ; while Luther ^as undermining the fabric of pa- pal authority in Germany, Zuingle was no Ids fuccefsful in Switzerland. By his zeal and in- trepidity, and by the irrefiaible force of truth, he gained fo many converts at Zuric where he had been invited to preach^ that in 15241116 ma?iarates aboUaie'd the mals, and other Ca- tholic ceremonies, and introduced the reformed religion. Zuingle had taken fuch wrfe precau- tions, and atfed with fuch extreme moderation, that the difputes between the two feds were car- Tied on with more temper than is ufual in reli- gious controverfies. The change, which had been fome time in agitation, was finally deter- mined by a plurality of voices in the fovereign councit : and the people readily and cheerfully obeyed the decifion of their magiftrates. Ihe example of Zuric was foon followed by Berne, Scaffhaufen, Bafle, with part of Glarus and Appenzel ; the other cantons continuing to ad- here to the religion of their anceRors. From this period the two perfuafions have been caablilhed in Switzerland ; but that harmony, which had hitherto fubfifted between the can- tons, has been occafionally interrupted, in 1 ?ji, religious difputes broke out with fo much violence and animofity, as to occafion a civil war ; in which the I'rotcaants were defeated, and Zuingle loft his Ufe, in the forty-eighth year ot " . . .\ ■ r nis Zuric. 57 Ji'sagc, at the battle of Cappd • Smr. fi, ► Pr^f^A ^ ' '"^ "^'"^i" m • 7 1 2, when tfi^ . Proteftants proved viftorious. The Teace -f Arau which terminated thefe unhtppy 5 Ztef b^conride., as a codLV't^Sn tt^S^ tho ics' ;;"/J'^^'"^^"^ °f 'he Proteftants and Ca! the two feas, and that t^ey t Zh ^n^ '"S FohibTo'T'e;;;! ^ i;r.'^l -^^ r^F ro.'ii P^^fy> not to ufe any term? fciv'riii;"'^""^'' ^" ^^-^-^ °f ^^^^ to the oSS^wZTeth"'''-!]^^'" pear from the following calculation"" 1^:;' .t 94,553 in meadows, 42.C4Q in Z7n t ^03,77^ inforeft. ^ '^^^ '" pafturage, and As -r a^ft'^'^ca > "-P- -ally engaged h, "this That he had ufed eVe v ar.,I° I ^^ ,'■ ""'^ ^ ^"fwer.d, •he contending p.rL ZTT "\ ^^^'^ '° '''°""'^ patient and turbulent zea of hi fT "^'"^ '''''S""^ '^^ ■'"- in obedience to one of the fuSd ^'""""""^'"^ ' 'hat he afted -d that he acco,:; LTed 'thl"a.t'r h '" "V"^ ^^^"''''"^ ' the magiftrates. ^ ^ ^ ^'^P™'^ command of. f Of 36,000 fquare feet each. * • M ,^m"- I 58 E T T • E R 8. Zuric, 59 '%■ Asfufficient com is ^-ot. produced for thcjtc. at the expen« of government. \^e Rr^;^^^. tailed at the common price ; b"t, m fealons ot city, it infold confidc^bly cheaper than uc^an^^ purchafea at the marku. 1 he gof'' ; ^ , 7 7 1 ; JftabUfl,u.eut appeared ^^^\^J^^:^:JZ, '. when, on ''"'iunt o the cear ^^^^^^^ f^"^^' . J ;r> fhp ranton forms an in- TW^ \v r e made in tne caiuuu i be vir.e m fo^eicrn commerce ; the confiderable objea ^/^'^'< . ^ ^Q^ntrv. In greateft part being confunxedn^be c^^^^^^^^^^^ !779 were e-poned lo 029 c fc, ea .^^ ing i8obottles;in 1701, ^^^S^^*^ "^^e^- canton contained, i" ;7JJ; '74,57^ fouls, including 'o^soo - ^^ cap. al- ^^^^ ^^ lavge Bei-'^-'^j;:" PXTde of Zuric; as livelihood by ipinning thread and f k, and ing linen for the n^anufaaures ofj^ie o-n. The fovereij;n power ^^1^"^^;.^^ T two burgeffes of the to^n, confifting of about %"l:f I cannot but remark, that a very najrow rpiHt .ot policy 3■!^X&; cl^-he ftatcs m Sw«.er land > "^ ^^ ^^,^ -^ f.n.e ot r-^^S^:^hJilS2fh^- otliers. But m /uric a new ^^^^^^ been admitted during thefe laft hundred and fifty years. ' It is curious to trace the reftridions which have been gradually laid on granting the burgherftip. On the a6th of May, 1540, the Sovereign Council ilTued a decree, importing- that whofoever was defirous of becoming a citizen, fliould be obliged to produce a certi. hcate of good behaviour, properly witaeffed and figned, and bearing the feal of the magi- Itrates of the place in which he formerly rcffd- ed ; and (hould, before he was enrolled amonjr the burghers, pay ten florins, near^C- ', if ama- tive ot Switzerland, and .double that fum if a Itranger. An inhabitant of the town «r canton was taxed only at three florins for his admiffion : and all artifts and perfons of learning, neceflkry or ufeful to the ilate, were to be received gratis In 1549, It was enaaed, that the burgherfhip ■ Ihould be refufed to all who were not pofTeffed of confiderable riches, or who did not introduce new arts and trades. This decree was repeatedly confirmed ; and, in 1597, it was added, th^t a new citizen Ihould not be entitled to a fliare in the government but on the following conditions. lUn inhabitant of the canton, he muft have rc- hded m the town during ten years ; if a native of Switzerland, twenty ; if ■ a foreigner, forty ; and " that he muft build or purchafe a houfe withm the walls of Zuric : this laft article .was repealed in 1612. In 1597, the reception of new citizens was delayed for the firll time, but only for two years; and in 1610, the admiffion money was augmented. In the commencement of the 17th century government refufed to receive into the Sovereigti Council » 6o LETTER 8. Council the noble families of Orel, Peffaluzz, and Muralt; which, in 1555 and l557^'?a'l quitted Italy and fettled at Zuric : thefe famihcs, partly on account of having embraced the re- formed reUgion, and partly as perfons of capacity •and induftry, had been received into the burgher- ftip. but rendered incapable of enjoying a Ihare in the adminiftration of affairs. This exclufion, ae>in confirmed in 159:, ^as revoked in 1673, i^favour only of the family of Muralt, which exception v.as obtained by confiderable largeffes. In 1674, the family of Orel oftered to diiburfe ten thoufatid florins towards the expcnce of re- pairing the fortifications, on condition of being rendered capable of eledion into the Sovereign Council: their petition was then refuled, but . genercufly granted in 1679, without the imallelt equivalent. /-c u Finally, on the 7th of January, 1661, the Council determined to make no more burgh- crs ; which refolution has been invariably tol- lowed. , r 1 o- The burghers, befidc the advantage of electing their magiflrates, and of afpiring to the admi- niaration of affairs, enjoy the fole right of com- merce ; all ftrangers, and even fubjefts, being excluded from eftablilhing manuiattures m the city, or in any part of the canton. The burghers of Zuric, are divided into thir- teen tribes ; one of which is called Conjiaffel, or the tribe of nobles ; although it is not at prtfent abfolutely confined to perfons of that defcriplion : it enjoys the privilege of giving eighteen mem- bers to the Sovereign Council, and fix to the Se- nate, whereas each of the other tribes only lup- ply twelve to the former, and fix to the latter. Zuric. r^ the former, when the demand is iaSat'jr EuS'. Tr'^P"' "" '° ^J^eCouncrAwo" final ann' K "" '"'"'"^' ^S-^'-"^' tl^eir fentencels hp aHm;« J • °\P"n'>nment ; and could never law r f '" ' "'^'' ^^^^^ by the letter of the fcn ft! r^ P"ni«»nent is inflided upon a Iheep-fteaier as upon a parricide. ^ in Z^° .^ '■^R'^ctted, that in this republic as ;rercr:ftrmini.irth"^ racfou^nS^r-^tr?^^^^^^^ thTmoV e eaTif S^^^ )■etitisUy;x^r^uT;t;r;l°^; friendfhip, >non.h , Td a LhoTh^ frf'^c"^ '^' °^' ''"V S^ for feme time p°ft tht K ' '''•''''"'' "'" ^"""'""^ f«. Paft, they have reunited and afled together. 'I I • t^y^^^~"-^^W^Spm^ ~^"^ J *---Z^i: tMi If (,, LETTERS. frequently influence the ]u ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 't nt^Tk. Stened anS equitable go- the wifdom ot tnis cunf, afceriain vcrnment, to form a penal ^^o^^' ^f^^'^^^ffence. ^ith precifion, the P"";'^-- ic -ouS in time The example of fuch a -[^ro''" ^^^ ftatcs be followed by the --"Xuv " bkfs the °' ^T^ ff hLtg o-afioned the in. name ot ^unc lor u ^ • . ^ ^^i- troduftion of more f^" ^^^ PJ^"^f ^te d«ifi^^^ minal courts of juftice. ^^\^l obvioufly neceffary. Several peno although underftandings -^^fl^^^^Xc^nkrXy fimi- the c-c-ftances of h cnme^we^ J lar, yet the mou opp ^^^ f^^jj^,. nounced on thefe «"»<^f J '^ *°^ ^Veree of fevc- lics of thofe, to ^hom a g^ ater deg ^^^^^^ ""'tl, iudge of. aelicacy and ho - .ould „,oft it"P°«'"^'%^°^stnafe confidered in a col- The power of tb: Sen^^^^^^^^^^^ble : it judges leaive capacity, is ^"y ^^^''l" .u.^care ot the finally m all criminal ""f^^^Vmc oal maeiftrates. polic?. and fuppUes the P -cipal ^m ^g .^ ^^^. But, ^'^^"^ g/^l^^Pi; mUber. of this affem- gerous in ^^^public , tbc ^ ^^^,..^^ „, bly are liable to be changea . inftances confirmation is annually made, m iomc ^^ Zuric. 6 J by tht Sovereign Council, in others by the par- ticular tribes to which the fenators belong. This annual revifion is a great check to maUadmini- it ration ; and at the fame time prevents the Se- nate from gaining fo great an influence, as to be detrimental to the liberties of the people. A burgher is qualified to vote at twenty ; is elifrible into the Sovereign Council at thirty ; and into the Senate at thirty.five. By thefe wife regulations, a man muft have formed fome experience in pub- he affairs, before he is capable of holding an im. portant charge. The revenues of government, though not exceeding £. 65,000 per ann. arc more than proportionate to the expences : which are regulated with the ftriaeft ceconomy. The Itate IS not only without debts, but an annual laving depofited in the public treafury, fw a refort upon any fudden emergency. From this this tund government fupported the whole ex- pence of the war, in 16.2, againft the Catho- lic cantons, without impofing any additional tax. . The canton of Zuric is divided into diftrifts or bailliages, which are governed by bailifs no- minated by the Sovereign Council. Thefe bai- lifs, excepting thofe of Kyburgh and Groningen, cannot pafs capital fcntence, or order torture. 1 hey can arreft and interrogate the delinquent, and puni ;: fmall mifdemeanors by whipping, br banilhmcnt from the baiJliage. In capital 'cafes, they exainine, make out the verbal procefs, and fend the felon to Zuric for further trial. On in- quiring into the ft.-rte of criminal jurifprudencc, liearned with fatistiiftion, that the quelHon had not been miiiaed in the capital for thefe laft nijie y«ars, which may be prelumed to be a prelude to 64 LETTER 8. * •■ to Its total abolition ; but it is much to^ be re- gretted, that whipping, which is a fpecies of tor- ture, is not unfrequcntly applied, in order to force confeflion, both ir) Zuric and in the bailli- ages ; an abufe of juftice repugnant to the wif- dom of fo enlightened a government. The city of Zuric ftands at the northern ex- tremity of the lake, and occupies both fides of the rapid and tranfparent Limmat. Its environs are extremely delightful ; an amphitheatre of hills gradually Hoping to the borders of the water, enriched with paflurt and vines ; dotted with in- numerable villas, cottages, and hamlets ; and backed on the weft by the Utliberg, a bold and gloomy ridge ftretching towards the Albis, and that chain of mountains which rifes gradually to the Alps. The town is divided into two parts ; the old part, furrounded with the fame antient battlements and towers which exifled in the thirteenth centu- ry ; and the fuburbs, which are ftrengthened by fortifications in the modern ftyle, but too ex- tenfive. The ditches, inflead of being filled with ftagnant water, are moftly fupplied with running ftreams. The public walk is pleafantly fituated in a lawn, at the jundion of the Limmat and the Sil, an impetuous and turbid torrent, which de- fcends from the mountains of Einfidlin : two rows of lime-trees planted by the fide of the Lim- mat, and following its ferpentine dircdion, af- ford an agreeable fhade in the heat of fummer. The inhabitants' are very induftrious ; and carry on with fuccefs feveral manufadures : the prin- cipal are thofe of linens and cotton's, muflins, and filk-handkerchiefs. The manufacturers do not • .. • • m Zuric. 55 in general dwell tvithin the walls : but the m.r. nas are moftly prepared, and th work is com pleted m tiie adjacent diftrifts. For °his reafon' Zunc does not exhibit the adivity and numbers of a great commercial city. The envim n? ^e contrary, are fo extLme y pop" 'uT'th^at Z:''JuV'^'''^'. '■" '^' neighb'ouXod of'i town whofe population fcarcely exceeds ten thoufand inhabitants, contain wiihin fo fma u narrow the houfes and public buildings accord more with plainnefs and convenience than L^^h the elegance and fplendor of a capital: "^'^ f he town contained in 1780, ,or5Q fouls in the foHowmg proportions : 2583 mile burghers 3464 female burghers ; 860 foreign clerks .ro hSr.' Ill '"^'-f ^^'^-"«. 44Sale?n! bu^gherihip, will appear from the foUoling '3^7- 1762. j '^375 iioi2 j 10616 10574 appear fror'^V/.^"^^'^ and opulence will appear from confidering, that in mc- the num uiervants to 363 ; whereas m 1780, the "^ rormcr 66 LETTER S. i former were 223, and the latter 173^; or near i fifth of the whole population. The manners of the inhabitants are in general fimple, and may perhaps in thefe times be cfteemed antiquated. Dinner is ufually ferved at twelve : in the afternoon the gentlemen af- femble in clubs, or fmall focieties, in the town during winter, and at their reipetlive villas in fummer. They frequently fmoke, and partake of wine, fruit, cakes, and other refrefliments. The women, for the moft part employed in their domeftic occupations, or devoted to the improve- ment of their children, are not fond of vifiting. When they go out, they generally affemble in fe- paraie coteries, to which only a few men, and thofe chiefly the neareft relations, are admitted: many of the ladies indeed, from a confcioufnefs of their provincial accent, and a difficulty of ex- preffing themfelves in French, feldom make their appearance when ftrangers are received. It has more than once happened to me, that on being Ihewn into the apartment wherein the ladies were affembled, the mafter of the houfe has takeji me by the hand, and led me into another room, where he would have detained me, if I had not requcfted to be reconducted to the ladies. This referve, however, among the ladies begins gfeatly to abate, and to give place to a more foci- able intercourfe. Such, however, is the preya- lencc of national habit, that a few families, which form a more agreeable mixture of company, are confidered as differing from the eftabliflied cuf- toms, and are ftill known by the name of the French Society, Sumptuary laws, as well as thofe againft im- morality, are here well obferved. The former indeed Zurick C7 indeed may exift, and be carried into execution even -among a people much corrupted for ^ may be the policy of government to entree the J obfervance , But the fev'ereil penalties wm no be fufficient o prevent crimes of an immora tendency, amidft a general diirolutenefs™rn. i"nvLrat?f;fch 1°^"'" Pl'"!^'^'^^ ^'^^^ "" ^"^ne Sdo? ? ''. '"'^ S'"' ^° ^h^-" their full operation. Secret crimes cannot be prevented - but It IS an evidenf nrr.^f^f ui- .h""^*'ciicea , , ','^*"'^nt pi oot of pub ic virtue wh^n KneTe?";' "°"''7 ''' difcount'nantd! ria^e^n ly f""]Pt"ary laws, the ufe of a car- thvTuxlJ /I* '?AP'f"/° <^o"'niercial and weal- my, luxury /hould fo little prevail. enfJ' ^""V*"^ °"g'"^' ^^if^ fpint of independ- ence prevails more than in any of the large towns Dy toreign courts, and above corruption (.en,. ndV^htHf "^' %d-ntageoftE"caS; ferves n H ''" ""federacy. Zuric ftill pre! fwav • vh- K^^'","".' '^'"^ ^ "''y confiderable St'ained'^o?^'^'" •'' "°^^ f'""'" '^' 'P^-'^ol power i ■ , ''7 j'^f^Snty, than from her power fhe is looked up to as one of the moft independent and uprigh? of the thirteen Tn^ The militia of the canton amounted, in ,781 n^^'^i^K"^"'^' •°25 artillery, 8<^6 dragoon ' and 406 chaffeurs ; in all 28,235 efFeaive^men l^r '' '. ?'•'""■'' '^'^ ^' Zuric, eftablilhed ,n 1 683, and fupported by the members of the TteZ council, who, inftead of giving an expenfivf^ ertamment, are bound o'n their elecE o'fu^: ther promotion to pay a certain fum. From this ^^ ^ fund, 6i LETTER i. fond, which has been confiderably augmented, /.2000 were taken, in 1770, for the purpofc of cftablifhing a magazine of uniforms and arms,, which are either diftributed, or fold at a low price to the poor peafants who cannot afford to purchafe them at their full value ; each peafant, according to the military laws of the canton, being obliged to poffefs his arms and uniform* The arfcnal is well fupplkd with cannon, arms,^ and ammunition ; and contains a referve of muf- kets for thirty thoufand men. We faw there, and admired, the two-handed fwords and weighty armour of the old Swifs warriors ; as alfo the bow and arrow with which William Tell is faid to have fliot the apple placed on the head of his fon. , This canton ha^j^a regiment and lomc compa- nies in the fervice of France, a regiment in that of Holland, and fome companies in the fervice of the King of Sardinia. The King of Fraifce pays annually for a regiment of fufiliers confiding of 1292 men, ^.20348. The colonel receive$;about £,S40 per arm, ; acaptain£.36o ; and a common foldier ^.7. The pay of a regiment of twelve companies, in the Dutch fervice, is £.25,377. urnf. ^9 LETTER LETTER JEcclefiqfttcal jlffmrs — State of Literature-^Learned Men of Zuric— Society of Phyftcs -Seminaries — Libraries,* In ccclefiaftical affairs the Senate is fupremc : the canton is divided into fourteen diftrkls, each governed by a dean, chofcn by the fynod, from three candidates propofed by the clergy of the diocefe. The fynod, compofed of the whole clergy, and feveral affeffor^ on the part of the Little Council, meets twice a year. In the lafl: century it had a more democratical form, and ex- ercifed jurifdiaion over its members : it examin- ed caufes between ecckfiaftics, and between the minifters and their pariftioners ; gave decifions 5 enjoyed the power of imprifoning, depofing, and rcinftating the minifters ; and exerjcifing an au- thority dangerous to the ftate. By degrees their exorbitant prerogatives were annulled ; and, in 1700, the clergy of Zuric fucceeded in the efta- bhfhment of a more ariftocratical form. The principal minifters and profcffors in the town conftitute, in conjundion with feveral ma- gift rates and other affcfforg deputed by the civil power. ' f ■jFO LETTER power, an ecclcfiaftical and academical council ; to this committee the deans have recourfe, in all concerns which feem to exceed their jurifdidion: it determines leffer affairs, and refers cafes of importance to the Senate. The fourteen deans affemble twice a year in Zuric, and compofe a profynode \ in which they depute one of their own body to deliver their re- quifitions, or pia defideria^ firft to the Ecclefiafti- cal Council, and afterwards to the General Synod. The Fccleliaftical Council takes their requefts into deliberation, lays them before the Synod, and if recommended, they are prefented by the affeffors to the final decifion of the Senate. 1 he ecclefiaftical benefices in this canton are fxtremely moderate. The bed living may be worth X^.140 per ann, and the worft about £''\o. The falary of the canonries in the capital amount to £.120. In general, a clergyman of the town, who has merit, is certain of obtaining aprofeffor- fhip, vfchich adds £^$0 or 60 per ann, to his other appointments. The charitable eftablifliments at Zuric, arc the orphan-houfe, which is regulated with ex- treme attention and care ; an alms-houfe for poor burghers, an hofpital for incurables, and that for the Tick of all nations, which ufually contains between fix or feven hundred patients ; and the /]llmofen-Jmi^ or foundation for the poor : this excellent inditution puts out children as appren- tices ; and diilributes money, clothes, and books of devotion to poor perfons, as well in the town as in different parts of the canton, at the recom- mendation of the rcfpeftive minifters. In 1697 it diitributed jC-3oo ; in 1760, ;C*5<^^o; in 1770, ^.4796; and in 1778, £.5451- Among Zuric. 7' Among the particular inftitut^ons muft not be - omitted the chirurgical feminary : it is formed by voluntary fubfcriptions, and chiefly fupported by Dr. Rhan, an eminent phyfician, who reads lec- tures gratis, and gives. the profits of a publica- tion, called the Magazine of Health, towards maintaining this feminary, for the inftrudion of young phyficians and furgeons, deftincd to fettle in the country. At Zuric public education is a matter of ftate, and under the immediate protedion of govern- ment. ^ The office of a profeffor gives rank and eftimation, and is often held by a member of the Senate and of the (Great Council. TJie princi- pal literary e.ftablifhments for the inftrudion of youth are, the Caroline College for ftudents in divinity ; Collegium Humanitatis, or the college for polite literature ; and the fchool of arts : the firft has twelve profeffors, the fecond two, and the laft feven. The learned languages, di- vinity, natural hiftory, mathematics, and in fhort every fpecies of polite learning, as well as abftrufe fcience, is taught at a fmall expencc in thefe refpeftive feminaries. In confequence of the unremitted attention which, fince the reformation, government has paid to the education of youth, many eminent perfons have flourifhed in all branches of litera- ture ; and there is no town in Switzerland where letters are more encouraged, or where they have been cultivated with greater fuccefs. A learned profeffor of Zuric has, in a very interefting pub- licatioh, difplayed the important fervices which erudition and fcience have derived from the la- bours of his countrymen. In thefe biographical memoirs' f I 72 LETTER Zurle* 73 / memoirs appear, among many others, the names of Zuingle and BuUinger, Conrad Gefner, Hot- tinger, Simler, Spon, Scheutzer, Heydegger, BrcitiAger, Bodmer, Hertzel, and Solomon Gef- ner. Of all the luminaries which Zuric, fertile in great gcniufes, has ever produced, Conrad Gef- ner perhaps occupies the firfl: place. He was born at Zuric in 1516, and died in 1564, in the 48th year of his age. Thofe who are con- rerfant with the works of this great fcholar and naturalift, cannot reprefs their wonder and ad- miration at the amplitude of his knowledge in every fpecies of erudition, and the variety of his difcoveries in natural hiftory, which was his pe- culiar delight. Their wonder and admiration is ftill farther augmented, when they confidcr the grofs ignorance of the age which he helped to enlighten, and the fcanty fuccours he poffeffed to aid him in thus extending the bounds of knowledge ; that he compofcd his works, and made thofe difcoveries which would have done honour to the moft enlightened period, under the complicated evils of poverty, ficknefs, and domeftic uneafmefs. A detail of his life and writings, by a writer capable of appreciating his multifarious knowledge, would be a juft tribute to the merits of this prodigy of learning {Mon^ Jtrum Eruditwnis) as he is emphatically filled by Boerhaave. Bodmer. born in 1698, was alive in 1776, when I firft vifited Switzerland; but I was at that time ignorant of the German language, and unacquainted with his great merits in reforming the tafte of his contemporaries, and familiariz- : ing ing them to the fublime beauties of Homer and Milton. He died in 1783. I now regret that I did not cultivate the acquaintance of a man, whom the unanimous voice of his contemporaries defervedly flyle the Father of German literature ; whofe juft criticifms and correft judgment ani-^ mated the poetical genius of Klopftock, Haller, and Gefner. I did not, however, omit waiting upon Solo- mon Gefner, the celebrated author of the Death of Abel, and of feveral idyls, which for their delicate and elegant fimpllcity are juftly efteemcd. They abound with thofe nice touches of-exquifite fenfibility, which difcover a mind warmed with the fineft fentiments ; and love is reprefented in the chafteft colouring of innocence, virtue, and benevolence. Nor has he confined his fubjefts merely to the tender paffion : paternal affedion, and filial reverence ; gratitude, humanity, in fhort every moral duty is exhibited and inculcat- ed in the moft pleafing and affefting manner. He has for fome time renounced poetry in order to affume the pencil ; and painting is at prefent his favourite amufement. A treatife which he has publifhed on landfcapes, difcovers the ele- gance of his tafte, and the verfatility of his ge- nius ; while his compofitions in both kinds prove the refemblance of the two arts ; and that the conceptions of the poet and of the painter are congenial. His drawings in black and white are preferable to his paintings; for, although the ideas in both are equally beautiful or fublime^ the colouring is inferior to the defign. He has publifhed a handfome edition of his writings in quarto, in which every part of the work is car- ried 74 LETTER Zuric* ried on by himfelf : he prints them at his own prefs ; and is at once both the drawer and en- graver of the plates. It is to be lamented^ that he has renounced poetry ; for, while ordinary writers fpring up in great plenty ; authors of real genius are rare and uncommon. His drawings are feen only by a few ; but his writings are dif- perfed abroad, tranflated into every language, and will be admired by future ages, as long as there remains a relifti for true paftoral fimplicity, or tafte for original compofuion. He is plain in his manners ; open, affable, and obliging in his addrefs ; and of fmgular modefty. I called ajfo on Mr. Lavater, a clergyman of Zuric, and celebrated phyfiognomift, who has publiflied four large volumes in quarto on that fanciful fubjea. That particular paffions have a certain eflfiia upon particular features, is evident to the molt common obferver ; and it may be conceived, that an habitual indulgence of thefe paflions may poffibly, in fome cafes, imprefs a diftinguifhing mark on the countenance : but that a certain call of features conftantly denotes certain paffions ; and that by contemplating the countenance, we can infallibly difcoyer alfo the mental qualities, is an hypothefis liable to fo many exceptions, as renders it impoffible to efta- blilh a general and uniform fyilem. Neverthelefs Mr. Lavater, like a true entjiufiaft, carries his theory much farther : for he not only pretends to difcover the charadlers and paffions by the fea- tures, by the complexion, by the form of the head, and by the motion of the arms; but he alfo draws fome inferences of the fame kind even from the hand-writing. And indeed his fyilem 75 IS is formed upon fuch univerfal principles, that he applies the fame rules to all animated nature, ex- tending them not only to brutes, but even to in- feds. That the temper of a horfe may be difco- vered by his countenance, will not perhaps ftrike you as abfurd : but did you ever hear before that any quality could be inferred from the phy! hognomy of a bee, an ant, or a cockchafer ? While I give my opinion thus freely concerning JVJr. Lavater's notions, you will readily perceive that I am not one of thofe, who are initiated into the myfteries of his art. Mr. Lavater has not merely confined himfcIf to phyfiognomy. He has compofed facred hymns and national fongs, which are much efteemed tor their fimplicity. He has alfo given to the pubhc numerous works on facred fubjeas. I am concerned to add ; that the ingenious author extends to religion the fame cnthufiafm which he has employed in his refearches on phyfiogno- my, and m his poetical compofitions : the warmth of his imagination hurries him on to adopt what- ever is moft fanciful and extraordinary ; to out- ftep the Hmits of fober reafon ; to be an advocate for the efficacy of abfolute faith ; for inward illuminations ; for fupernatural vifions ; and for the miraculous effeas of what is called animal magnetifm in the cure of diforders. The infinuating addrefs of Mr. Lavater, the vivacity of his converfation, the amenity of his manners, together with the Angularity and ani- mation of his ftyle, have contributed more to diftufe his fyftem and principles, than found ar- guments or deep learning, which are not to be found in his lively, but defultory compofitions. • Leonhard 76 I. E T T E R 9. Lcorfiard Meiftcr, profcffor of hiftory and mo- rality in the School of Arts, defervcs to be men- tioned among the learned men of Zuric. The verfatility of his talents will be collefted from a bare catalogue of his principal works : which arc written in the German tongue. — On Fanaticifm; the Hiftory of the German Language and Lite- rature ; Lives of the celebrated Men of Zuric ; Sivifs Biography ; the moft memorable Events of the HcWttic Hiftory, in Chronological Order ; Inftances of Intolerance and Fanaticifm in Swit- zerland ; Public Law of Switzerland ; Hiftory of the Town and Canton of Zuric ; Panegyric on Bodmer ; Excurfions through various Parts of Switzerland ; Charader of the German Poets, in Chronological Order, with their Portraits ; Abridgment of Ancient Hiftory, particularly of the Greeks, with an introduftion on the Fine Arts and Polite Literature In all his writings the judicious author has difplayed great zeal for the promotion of learning, corrednefs of tafte, liberality of fentimcnt, and much hiftorical and biographical knowledge. But in his obfcrvations on fanaticifm and intolerance, he has treated thofe fubjeds in a new light : he has illuftratcd their dreadful efFeds on government and civil fociety by hiftorical events, and in a political view ; he has appealed from thory to experience, and exemplified queftionable arguments by un- anfwcrable fads. In this inftance he has been no lefs fingularly ufcful in combating perfecu- tion, than in reprefling that fpirit of fanaticifm that prevailed among many of his countrymen, and which is diffufed by men of lively abilities and popular manners. The Zuric. n Tfie curiofity of the naturalift will be amply gratified by a view of the library and cabinet of Mr. John Gefner, jjrofeiTor of phyftcs, and ca- non of the cathedral, who inherits the zeal for natural hiftory which characterifed his great an- ceftor Conrad Gefner. His proficiency in the ftudy of nature, and particularly his accurate (kill in botany, has been abundantly teftified by the repeated acknowledgments of Haller, whom he accompanied in his herborifing excurfions through the mountains of Switzerland, and who confeiTes himfelf indebted to Mr. Gefner for various ob- fervations and important difcoveries. Mr» Gef- ncr's cabinet is extremely rich in foffils, and re- markable for the drawings of the principal fpc- cimcns in this mufeum ; and for numerous repre- fcntations of infeds admirably painted by Schel- knberg. But one of the moft curious parts of his colledion, is a great botanical work, which Haller calls vajlijjimum et pulcherrimum opus / and which, it is much to be regretted, he had, hitherto withheld from the public. He has ex- hibited, in eighty tables, a thoufand generical charaders of plants, according to the Linnaean fyftcm,. together with many of the fpecific cha- raders. Thefip tables, intended to illuftrate a general hiftory of plants, which, as appears by bis own letters to Haller, the author meditated, ^ere drawn and engraven by Geifler, the fame perfon who diftinguiflied himfelf by painting the Ihclls of Regenfufs*. Amidft the various occupations of Gefner, botany, to which he had an earJy and ftrong at- tachment, has engaged a great fhare of his at- tention ; * See Coxe*s Travels into Poland, &c. Book viii. chap. iv< 78 LETTER tention ; befides two or three early prodaftions in this line, he began, in the year 1 759, to pub- lifti a work which he has extended to eight pub- lications, in the quarto form. The firft feven parts bear the title of Phpogra- phia Sacra Generalis ; the remaining, that of Pny- tographia Sacra Specialis. In this work the author treats on philofophy, of vegetation in general, and on the circulation of the fap through the particular parts of plants ; on the Linn^an fyftem, againit the objedions of Alilon ; on the ufes ot plants as food to man, and gives a detail ot up- wards of a hundred edible kinds, with a com- pcndious account of the fpecific properties ot each ; on the medicinal ufes of plants ; on the various oeconomical ufes of vegetables, lUuftrat- ing in a particular manner, among many others, thofe of the Palm-tree, Flax, and Aloes. In the latter volumes of this work, the author treats on other advantages derived to mankind from the vegetable world. He fpeaks, for in- ftance, on the nature and conftituent parts ot turf and peat, and enumerates the fpecies ot bog and fen plants which enter into the compofition ot each ; on the kinds of (hrubs proper for hedges ; on timber for building, and particularly fuch as were ufed for thofe purpofes by the antients. In the firft part, which is all that is hitherto publiflied, of what he names Phytograpbia Sacra Specialis, he has given an account ot thofe au- thors who have written on the plants of the holy fcriptures, and enters upon the hiitory of each. The Society of Fhylics owes its origin to Meffrs. Heydcgger, Schultetz, and John Gefner, who firft affemblcd in 1745. ^^^ admitted others, m Zuric. 79 in order to attend a courfe of leftures on natural hiftory. This courfe was read by Mr. John Gef- ner, profeffor of phyfics, who fo greatly excited the attention, and animated the zeal of his audi- ence, that in a fhort fpace of time the members were increafed to feventy. The firft regular meeting was held in 1745, in a private houfe ; and in a few years they deferved and received the proteftion of government, which granted the profits of a lottery towards cftablifhing a fund. There are now about a hundred and twelve mem- bers : each pays on his admittance eight florins, or about feventeen (hilHngs, and the fame fum annually. Since 1757, a fuite of apartments, in a houfe belonging to one of the tribes, has been aiTigned for holding their aflemblies, and for containing their Ubrary and apparatus. The fociety is divided into five departments. I. Phyfics. 2. Mathematics. 3. Natural hif- tory. 4. Medicine. 5. Application ot phyfics to arts and trades. But the grand and principal objeft of this fociety, is the encouragement and improvement of praSical agriculture. For this purpofe the members correfpond with the land- holders in diflerent parts of the canton ; vifit va- rious diftrifts in rotation ; fummon to Zuric fome of the beft-informed farmers ; acquaint them- felves with the ftate of huftDandry ; give them in- ftru£tions ; offer prizes for improvements in cul- tivation ; furnilh fmall fums of money to the poorer peafants : and communicate to the public the refult of their inquiries and obfervations. The public library at Zuric contains about 25,000 volumes, and a few curious manufcripts^ Among the latter, the following principally at- tracted 8o LETTER traded my attention, i. The original manufcript of C^uintilian, that was found in the library of St. Gallen, and from which the firft edition of that great rhetorician was printed. 2. The pfalms in the Greek tongue, written on parch- ment dyed of a violet colour. The letters arc filvcr, excepting the initials, which arc in golden charaders, and the marginal references, which red. It is fimilar to the celebrated are Codex Jrgenieus* in the library of Upfala. It is fuppofed to have once formed part of the Codex Vaticanusy preferved in the Vatican library at Rome : as both of thcfe manufcripts are fimilar, and the Roman volume is deficient in the pfalms. The learned Breitinger has publifhed a dilTerta- tion on this codexj. 3. Several manufcripts of Zuingle, which prove the indefatigable induftry of that celebrated reformer. Among thefe 1 par- ticularly noticed his Latin Commentary on Ge- nefis and Ifaiah, and a copy of St. Paul's, Epif- ties from the Greek Tellament publiihed by Erafmus. At the end is written an infcription in thfe Greek tongue, fignifying, " Copied by Ulric Zuingle, 14' 5-" 1^ was prefcnted to the public library by Ann Zuingle, the laft furvivor of his illuftrious race. 4. Three Latin letters from Lady Jane Grey to Bullinger, in 1551, 1552, and 1553. Thefe letters, written with her own hand, breathe a fpirit of the moll unaf- fefted piety, and prove the extraordinary pro- • See Travels into Poland, Ruflia, &c. Book vii. chap. vr. f De Antlquillimo 'ruricenfis Biblioihccac Grxco Pfal- monim Libro Turici, 1748. erels Zurtc. 8( grefs which this unfortunate and accomplifhed princefs, though only in the fixteenth year of her age, had made in various branches of literature. The Greek and Hebrew quotations ihew that (he was well acquainted with thofe languages. Thcfc letters, though given in feveral publications, yet are not printed with that accuracy, which tb<5 relics of fuch a perfonage dcfervc. This library is rich in the beft editions of the dailies ; and particularly in the early impreffions of the 1 5th century. The library of the cath.?dral belonging to the Caroline College, contains feveral manufcripts of the reformers Bullinger, Pelican, Bibliander, and Leon Juda ; particularly the tranflation of the Talmud by Pelican and Bibliander, which has never been printed ; alfo fixty volumes of letters from Zuingle, and the early reformers, with a complete index. This colleSion, fo interefting to ccclefiaftical hiftory, was formed by Henry Hottinger*, the learned author of the Hiftory of the Reformation, renowned for his extenfive erudition, and particularly for his profound ikill in oriental literature. The librarian pointed out an antient manufcript of the Latin Vulgate, called Codex Carolinusj and fuppofed to have been ^ prefent from Charlemain ; but without founda- tion, for it is certainly of much later date, pro- bably of the eleventh century. Among the rare books is the Latin Bible, tranflated by Pelican, Bibliander, and Leon Juda, printed at Zuric in '545- Vol. L G Th« • He was born in i^ao ,• and was drowned in the Limmaf, 1667, ji LETTERS- The lover of literary and ecclcjaftjcal hifto^ .ill not fail to vifit the f -^^^^^^^^^^ «-Pl; ilrrnd the oSr reformers of Zuric. ehiSn:; ht ^^ ^;^^f£ ^l:hi:prafrr^^^^^^^^^ «"S-library of Mr. de Heydegg^r ^e^^^^^^^^^^^^ Zuric, defervesthe °°^^«;J/J,£ed fr^m W^ fether oray 3000 v^ume , .h.c ^ ^^^^^^ ^^ 1° nif that v,ere CknLn to Maittaire >^'hich r7J"Gielhos Toi^^^^^^ Stephens, Elzivers, Juntas, Gifl OS, ^ BafkerviUe, Bodoni, J Un Aue Viudel. Gunther, Zcmer et Reut- Zuric. 83 Vmdel de Spira, 1470. See Cat. de la ValU. ere, 178J. No. 3579— Firft edition of Dante, C. Fulginei Neumciftcr 147a. See la Valliere ^o. 3558.— Boccacio Genealogia Deorum ct liber de montibus et Sylvis. Venet. Vindel. de Spira, 1472 and 1473. Firft edition.— De Claris muheribus. Ulma Sv. Zciner, 1473. Firft edi- tion with wooden cuts, very fingular. See Ca- taloguede la Valliere, No. 3810 and 5609.— Boccacio Decamerone Venet. Gio et Gregor.de Gregorii fratelli, 1492, folio, wooden cuts. The Decameron tranflated into German about 1475, folio.— Mamontreclus Beron^ p. Helian Helise[ 1470,^ folio. This book was printed at Mun- fter, in the canton of Lucerne, and is curious, becaufe it is the firft inftance of typography in Switzerland. vi- o r / G 2 LETTER «4 LETTER » o» Environs of Zurlc. 85 LETTER *o- Regenfierg, and to the Summit of & berg. During my firft to- ^hr^ttlTat"^ portunity of ^^f">"g "'„^ies of nature, for the Wch, for the ™; J„''",'Jf °eU.being of the numerous P^P^^^^'f^,;^^^^ by any fpot oa pcafantry, »s ^ca ceiy » Pj-^j „t occafions, '^^'^^^^j^ pr oTthTS of the prefent letter. ^ ^^^ ^^^^j. The weather clearing up aUer ^^ nucd and heavy F^J-^/VB.nftet of Berne, ,785, 1 accompamed Mr. ae DO of Zuric, m a d^^^f ^*^^^^^^^ ^, ,YiC country was Wc had no need of guides, as uic ^^^^ well known to my companions ; and we had no incumbrance of baggage. Having made an ear- ly dinner, according to the cuftom of the place, we departed at mid-day ; and walked about three miles, through vineyards and corn-fields, to Kuff- nach, a fmall village on the eaft fide of the lake. Here we paid a vifit to a gentleman, and were ferved with tea, flices of bread and butter, and cherries. In 1778, Kuflhach was confiderably damaged by the rife of a fmall torrent, which poured down from the mountains, carried away twenty, five houfes, and deftroyed about fixty perfons. This torrent, now only a little rill, fwelled to fuch a degree, as to rife at lead thirty feet above its ufual level ; an increafe owing to the fudden melting of the fnow on the neighbouring heights. Every afliftance was inftantly afforded to the wretched inhabitants, and a colledion of ^.3000 was raifed in one Sunday at the different churches of Zuric : an aftonifhing coUeSion for a town which does not contain 11,000 fouls. I am indebted to Profeffor Meifter for the fol- lowing obfervations on the population, induftry, and produaions of Kuffnach, and the neighbour! ing villages. Kuffnach contains about 1700 fouls, and the neighbouring villages are no lefs f)eopIed : this aftonifhing population in fo fmall a compafs is occafioned by the trade of the capital, which employs fo many hands. The proportion be- tween the produce of the foil and the profits de- rived from working for the manufadlures, may be eftimatcd from the following calculation : Five parifhcs and two villages, fituatcd near the lakes 86 L E T T E R 10. lakes of Zuric and GreifFen, contain 8498 fouls- and comprehend only 6050 acres' of Se land, 698 of vines, and Z^oyjij^^c ^""r^. Sfafac'e^ irSK C- -o or V" " Terea; the fame quantity in the m- ferior part of the canton is worth only £.^0 or ^'iff.xteenparifties, fituated on the borders of ,he lake he number'of inhabitants in 1 784. -ere '^^ S: There v,ere a7 1 carriages, i . M b. nhs irhe proportion of the marriages to the bu b , as t« ^i88- of the births to the deaths, as '°on o 88. 'of he births to the living, as i«oo TtS 7oV- of the deaths to the livitjg, as 2000 to 12,5° 5 I .of the males to the females, as 1000 '° Sne repofed ourfelvcs about an hour at Xuffnach we continued our ^alk through vme. ^ards and corn-fields, fometimes on the flopmg lanks of the lake, fometimes op a f^all foot- performed on terraces upon a leve wuh the . ^ \.. . nr alone narrow roads that relemDie :S walL Sding through pleafure- grounds gravel waiiv „ ,^ i y^g enioyed, during llt'p'any th^X the tnoft agUable (hade C Ce beech and oak, w.lnut and other IZ treef that overhang like weepmg wiiloxvs ; 2y of which are pl-'ed ahnoll hon.ontally dthJr ftretching from the fides of the h.ll.^or * . The acre ufed \n this letter contains from 3^,600 to 36.000 fquare feet. Environt of Zuric* 87 from the very edge of the water, their boughs dipping into the lake : the fcattcred cottages, the numerous villages, the pifturefque villas placed on the banks of the lake, and feveral neat churches, added to the beauty of the ever-chang- ing fcenery. Having walked about three miles further, wc flopped at a peafant's houfe in Meile, who regal- ed us with our ufual fare, milk and cherries, but would receive no recompenfe. Here we em- barked and croffed the lake, enjoying a moft agreeable view of each border ftudded with villas, churches, and villages, many of which looked like large towns, as they were half con- cealed by the intervening treps. As we paffed near a bold promontory, richly covered with wood, we obferved the fun, which was hid under a cloud, gilding the diftant town of Rapper.- fchwyl, the hills towards Zuric filvered by a milder ray, and the gloomy but fublime nxoun^ tains of Glarus boldly rifing to the fouth. Wc landed at Weddenfchweil, which is agree- ably fituated on the weft fide of the lake. It is the capital of a bailliage, that ftretches to the limits of the cantons of Zug and Schwcitz, and was formerly an independent lordlhip. In 1287 it was fold by Rhodolph of Weddenfchweil to the Knights of Jerufalem ; and became a coni- mandery until 1459* when Zuric purchafed it from the mafter of that order for 20,000 florins. The inhabitants having revolted in 1466, •and being compelled to fubmit, were deprived of fe- veral privileges, and particularly the criminal jurifdiaion, which was transferred to the fenate of Zuric. Notwithftanding, however, the lofs of 88 L E T T E R >o. of thefe immunities, the mildnefs of fovernme^ is fufflciently manifefted, by the conMeraWe n- creafe of the population within ^^'^ 'f JJJJ'Jf The number of fouls whichm ,678 confifted onlv 4867, amounted m 1782 to 818S. °"6elr Weddenfchweil I o^erved a beautiM meadow, prettily (kirted -f'f \ 7^^^" Vf^ H.ed by a lively J-m, wh.ch t-P f f ?:Lnrrfi faw':\^^^ brnLm;sU^t^^;iea^^^ heard the noife of ^^"^"gj^'^".;' ^an el va^d glimpfe of a torrent tumbhng from an elevat fock, gliftening through the dark toUage, and richly illuminated by the rays of the fun \vhich was concealed from our ^^^^ »«7f, nenetrated by the fide of the torrent, ^c law it SS froii the height, a-id furro-^i^g „ee s fall about fix feet upon a ridge, ^^^^Jf" ?.' fiftv feet in mid air, without touchrag the fides nf Ihe orecipice. The eftVa was peculiarly flrik- fj Nor cou d we fufficiently admire the am- She^r J o^ rock, the beeches fufpended on ,« L and fides, the beams of the f^ ^f ^^f ^"^ the falling waters, and the noifc of tne jorrent fomSg with 'the mild and tranquil beauties nf the lake we bad iult quitted. - Our walk to Richlifwlck, ^here we paffed the ni.h" was no lefs agreeable than that on the o he 'fide of the lake. The road ran fome.imes Srrug'h meadows at a little ^^^^^ Se'7rs%litd"caJuVbTtl^e hand of nature, in the moft capricious (hapes : we fcarce- I/le of Ufnau. *9 ly advanced a hundred fteps without paffing a neat cottage, and meeting with pcafants, who fa- luted us as we went along. Every fpot of ground is cuhivated in the higheft perfection. At Richlifwick, which like Weddenfchweil coptains many good houfes of ftone, plaiftcred and white-wafhed, ornamented with green wm- dow-fhutters, and Venetian blinds, we found an inn with comfortable accommodations. This place has a good port ; is the paiTage of much merchandize ; and is greatly refortcd to by the pilgrims, in their way to Einfidlin. Early the next morning we embarked, and failed to the Ifle of Ufnau. The weather was uncommonly fine, the lake was quite ftill, the re- fleftipn of the white houfes quivered on the fur- face of the water ; and the hollows of the diftant mountains feemed to be filled with a tranfparcnt vapour, which induced me to cry out, in the Ian- guage of poetry. ** Pleajant the fun, fVhenfirfi on this delightful land he fpreads h it orient beams^ on herb^ trtt^ fruit, and floiuer, *♦ GliJPring luith de^M ♦." «t « About a 4nile^from Richlifwick is a fingle houfe (landing on a gentle acclivity, the walk of which divide the canton of Zuric from that of Schweitz, and at the fame time fet inftant bounds to that induftry and population which had hither- to attraded our wonder and delight. In about two hours we landed at Ufnau, a pleafant ifland, about an Englifli mile in circura- X • Miltoo's Paradife Loft. ference. LETTER 10. fcrence, be onglng to the jb ^^ .^tUl has only a fmgle h°f J J^ o^^^^^ Summer- fan^ily, two barns, J^^md o^ tow „ ^ ^bich is never ufed and a chur b m^ .^ ^^^ ;c faid only twice m tne year. >>* ■il'tfV Ad*ic .J.O W 1. an h«n,.„ e o„ f.r«ted his ftudies with that impetuous zeal Sh was the leading mark of h f charader. He paffed a life of almod unparalleled vic.ffi- fude fometimes in the camp, H^^^^^\[°' . ';!rlU courage ,;^fometimes in un^ erfmg -^^^^^^ he diftineuilhed himfelf by various publications , f ifSes in courts, received with refped, or dTven awai f "?nfoience •, and fometimes wan- Eng ovel different parts of Eu-pe in extreme fn'dige'hce. Having, at an early period of h» 1-r ^rr^K-^rrd the opinions or JLutner, ne urcw hSh h" pen and bis fword in defence of the new 5 Lnes was fo intemperate in his ardour tXl'ls frequently impfifoned •, and alarmed 1 the darine fpirit of 1-uther by his repeated Sge' H"4 rendered himfelf .n ^.q.^ L^ke of Zuric, 91 objc£t of terror to both Lutherans and Catholics, his overbearing temper in vain fought an afy- lum, until he found it in this fequeftered ifland. He expired in 1523, in the 36th year of his age: a man as remarkable for his genius and learning, as for his turbulence and prefumption. The ifland is agreeably broken into hill and dale : is extremely fertile in pafture ; produces hemp, flax, a few vines, and a fmall tufted wood, which overhangs the edge of the water. It is tbe only ifland in the lake of Zuric, except an uninhabited rock, which yields a ftnall quantity x)f hay. Having reimbarked, we foon landed at Rapper- fchwyl, which 1 have defcribed in a preceding letter ; and continued afcending amid hanging enclofures of pafl:ure and corn, commanding a fine view of the lake, hills, mountains, and alps. Having pafl^ed the little territory belong- ing to Rapperfchy wl, we came into the canton of Zuric. On entering a neat cottage, to inquire the road, we faw a peafant teaching about thirty children to read and write. On exprefling my furprize and fatisfadion, I was informed that each village has a peafint fehoolmafter, either en- tirely or partly paid by government ; an4 that in jthis canton there is fcarcely a child who is not inftrucled in reading and writing. A little furr- ther we entered another cottage, where the miC- trefs of the houfe offered us milk and cherries, and placed upon the table nine or ten large fU- ver fpoons. We continued our walk through an enclofed, hilly, and well-wooded country, and arrived ^bout mid-day at Grunengen, a fmall burgh,* capital ji E T t E R lO. JL capital of the bailUage. After dinner^ -e pa^ a "fit to the baiUf, who rcfidcs in ^^^ ""''=' 7*^^^^ '-t °:xtn:tard?^hciotf Jii^ ^nd". tenfivc profpett » ^owa cultivated, r;eVrau;;!;^ft-'^^^^^^ ^°-^^°-^'^ ^"^4hJ bSKffcffes confiderable authority. He ?udees dvil and criminal affairs, in the pre- confers ; and 1 ^as gre« y praaifed. ♦hk horrid expedient had been mciy pi«» V?cn in capital cafes he can condemn to death, IZSaS fummons -g^^^y jurymen from th ^'^l/thrbif^abufe'shis power, the fenate readi- fetuTd^"^^^^^^^^^^^ ^-Te ' An Tftance of this impartiality occur- IS .7T4;£ the b.li. being ^^^^^^^ f -tortions, though he .as fo^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^.^^ SnT 1 icarnecl Ss fad, on obferving a va- zerland. | '""'^ . f ^^ of arms belonging which once filled this vacant place, had been crafed by order of government. From Grunengen v^e purfucd our couric through lanes, fields, and enclofures, along a moft delightful country, abounding m vines, corn, pafturc, and wood. As the fetting fun eradually defcended below the horizon, we fre- luently looked back upon the diftant alps, whofe lower parts were dulky and gloomy ; and whofe furomits were " Arraytd -with refleaedpurplt and goU, " And colours dift in heav'n *." 1 At the clofe of the evening I arrived at Uftar ; regretting that our day's journey was concluded, and not feeling in the lead fatigued with a walk of eighteen miles, from Rapperfchwyl to Ultar ; fo greatly had I been occupied and delighted with the beauties of this romantic country. Uftar is a large parilh, containing 3000 fouls ; the wooden cottages are neat and commodious, rcfemble thofe in the canton of Appenzel, and are difperfed in the fame manner over the hills and dales. . . .^^ . The fun had fcarcely rifen before we quitted our beds, and walked to the caftle of Uftar. It ftands boldly on an elevated rock, planted to its very fummit with vines, and commands a molt cxtenfive view, bounded by the Jura, the moun- tains of the Black Foreft, and the^ham of alps ftretching from the canton of Appenzel to the ronfines of the Vallais. Below and around, the country refembled the moft cultivated and en. clofcd parts of England ; a fmall lively ft^ara • Milton. 94 Better lO. /" winded through an immenfe plain j while thcf lake of Greiffen appeared like a broad river, wafli- ing the bottom of the adjacent hills. This caftle was formerly the refidence of the counts of Uftar, who held it and the diftria as a fief from the counts of Ravenfpurgh, and was at that time a ftrong fortrefs. On the extinaion of that houfe, in the middle of the fourteenth century^ it was transferred to the family of de Bonftet ; and in 1552 was purchafed by Zuric, and united to the bailliage of Greiftenfee. Monfieur de Bonftet, whom I have mentioned as one of our party, derived great fatisfaftion in tracing the antiquity and hiftory of this feat, for- merly poffefTed by his anceftors, and in obferving the family arms painted upon the glafs windows. This caftle is now a^ private gentleman's houfc, and belongs to Mr. Teyler of Weddenfchwcil. From Uftar we croffed the fields, and arrived at the lake of Greiffen. We walked for fomc way upon the turf, along its borders, under the pendulous branches of oak, beech, and elms. This lake is of an oblong ftiape, about fix miles long and a mile broad.. On one fide the (horcs are flat, or gently rifing, on the other, hills richly wooded. The dearth of cottages and in- habitants, in this delightful but folitary fpot, formed a ftriking contraft with the numerous villages we had recently quitted \ while the fou- them extremity of the lake feemcd almoft bound- ed by that magnificent chain of alps, which con- ftantly engaged our attention. Having embarked in a fmall boat, wc paffcd the village of Greiffen, pleafin^ly fituated on a fmall promontory embofomcd in a wood, and landed Lake of Zuric. - 05 landed at the northern extremity of the lake*^* Here I bathed, and walked on gently, afcending through fertile grounds, delightfully planted witb oak, beech, and poplars, and innumerable fruit- trees. At a fmall village we ftopped at the par- fonage. You can fcarcely form to yourfelf an adequate idea of the neatnefs and fimplicity which reign in thefe parts. The clergyman's two daughters, about fifteen or fixteen years of age, politely brought milk and cherries for our refrefliment. They were neatly dreft, like the peafant girls, in ftraw hats, their fhift-fleeves tied, as is the cuftom of the country, above their elbows. From this retreat of innocence and fimph'city we afccnded about a mile, then burft upon a charming view of Zuric, the I;ikc, and environs; and, gently defcending, arrived at Zuric, quite enchanted with this fliort exjxrdition. An expedition to the fummit of the Lagerbcrg was no Icfs agreeable than the former cxcurfion. 1 procured a guide and a horfc ; but the weather proving very fine, I gave up the horfe to my fcrvant, and preferred walking acrofs the corn- fields, meadows, and thickets. The fields were enlivened by the numerous pcrfoos employed in harvcft. In thefe parts, as well as the neigh- bouring countries, I obferved with plcafure, that the oxen, which arc chiclly ufcd for draught, arc not yoked to the teams or ploughs, but harncffcd like horfcs. This cuftom enables thofe animaes to perform their labour with much more cafe, and with greater effcft. It has lately been introduced into loiijc parts of Kngland ; and all unprejudiced farmers allow its fupcrior advantage, as the yoke is 96 LETTER 10. / is extremely galling ; and four oxen harneffed with collars will do as much work as fix when yoked by the neck. A few miles from Zuric, I paffed through the village of Aff holtcren, near the church, which is prettily fituated in the middle of a large field 5 fldrted the fmall lake of Caften, at a little diftance from the pifturefque ruins of Old-Regeniberg ; and gently afcended to New-Regenftcrg, which ftands on an elevation, at the foot of the Lager- berg. ^ , The counts of Regenlberg were powerful barons during that period of anarchy and contu- fion which diftinguifticd the 1 2th and 1 3th cen- turies. They were involved in conftant wars, or rather dcfultory fcirmifhes, with the town of Zu- ric, until they were finally repulfed by Rhodolph of Habfturgh, then captain- general of the troops of Zuric. On the extindion of the counts ot Regenlberg, in the 1 4th century, their territory devolved to the Houfe of Auftria, and in 1409, became fubjeO: to ZuriC. The prefent burgh is inhabited by about 200 perfons : who enjoy confidcrablc privileges. They have their burgomafter, and a council of fix members, who form the civil court of juftice, from whofe decifioa an appeal lies diredly to Zuric. The criminal jurifdiaion belongs to the bailif, who rqfides in the caftle. This building was formerly of great ftrength, and frequently defied the attacks of Zuric. The greatcft part of the prefent edifice was conftruacd in the lad century ; the only remains of the ancient fortrefs being fome ftone walls and a round tower, which commands a diftant profpcft. A well in the middle Regenjberg, ^j middle of the burgh, hollowed in the rock to the depth of 2j6fect^ which is now dry, furnifhed formerly water to the garrifon, during the obfti- Hate fieges it maintained before the invention of gunpowder. Near this well is a copious foun- tain, which is fupplied from a fpring that rifes in the Lagerbcrg. The adjacent country is a moft delightful intermixture of hill and dale. The rock on which Regenfberg is built, and which terminates in an abrupt precipice, forms the caftcrn extremity of that vaft chain of moun- ^ , tarns known by the general name of Jura, the branches of which are diftinguifhed by different appellations. The branch that rifes from this point is called the Lagerberg, to the fummit of which I mounted on horfeback. I paffed for fome way through cultivated enclofures, and af. terwards through forefts of pine, fir, and beech, until I reached the higheft point, on which ftands a fignal-houfe. From this point, which over- looks the whole country, I enjoyed one of the moft extcnfive and uninterrupted profpeas, and particularly the fineft diftant view of the Alps, which I had yet feen in Switzerland. To the north, the eye expatiates freely over the wilds of the Black Foreft ; to the eaft, be- yond the confines of Bavaria ; towards the weft, traces the branches of the Jura extending in multifarious direaions ; to the fourh, looks down upon the fertile and enclofed regions in the can- ton of Zuric, on the lake and its populous banks, and admires the vaft expanfe of country fwellino- from plains to acclivities, from acclivities to hills*^ from hills to mountains, and terminating in thofe ftupendous alps, Vol. I. H « Whofe 98 LETTER II. It Whjt heads touch haeven:' The wonderful and fublimc profpca detamal me infenfibly till the clofe of the evening, when I defcended, through the gloomy forefts ot pine, fir, and beech, that clothe the fides of the La- cerberg ; and, filled with thofe pleafing but mc lancholy refleaions which the indefcribablc beail- ties of nature leave upon the mind, I rode flowly on, and did not arrive at Zuric till the gloom of aight had overfprcad the horizou* LETTER Winterthur. 99 LETTER u. Winterthur—Cajile of K^burgh. WlNTERTHUR ft«ids about twelve miles from Zuric ; a town which, although fituated in the canton, and under the proteSion of Zuric, yet retains its own laws, has its own magiflrates, and is in a great meafure independent. Winterthur was formerly governed by its own counts, who were probably a branch of the Ky- burgh family, for both houfes bore the fame coat of arms. In the 1 4th century it was poffeiTed by Hartman, count of Kyburgh, who firft furround- cd It with walls ; and upon his death it devolved to his nephew Rhodoiph of Hapfburgh. Rho- dolph, afterwards emperor, conferred upon the inhabitants confiderable privileges, for aflifting him in the war in which he was engaged with Ottocar, king of Bohemia. It continued fuhjeft to his defcendants until 1424, when the inha- H 2 bitants LETTER IT. lOO bitants claimed the protcaion, and obtamed tW alliance, of Zuric. In .467, the archduke Si gifmond having fold his rights to Zunc, that lanton fucceededto Ws. prerogatives. A deputy from Zunc reiides at Winterthur buf for L other purpofe than for coUetting the toll, half of which belongs to Zunc. The government of Winterthur is anftocrati- cal The fupreme power, in all things not in- teferlng lith'^the claims of Zuric refides in the Great L Little Council The e two tnbun as united are final judges in all criminal procedures, and pafs fentence of death without appeal. Jtic Little Council is invefted with the genera adm - niftration of aifairs, and determines avil cauie* in the firft refort. From their decifion an ap- peal lies to the Gr^^t Council and in all pij- ceffes between a ftrangcr and a burgher, to ttic fenate of Zuric. ^ , . t a^^^ Although the town isconf.dered as >ndependen and only under the proteaion of Zunc, yet that canton daims the right of reftriaing the inha- bitants from manufaauring filk, and from efta- blilhing a prir.ting-prefs, as mterfenng with the natves^of Zuric. This rcftriaion has occafioned and ftill continues to excite, ill-wiU between the two towns, and has given rife to much litigation. And though Zuric did not prohibit the manu- faaures of iilk, yet by forbidding ^^^P^^^f'^'J the canton from preparing and fpmnmg the ma- terials, this order amounted to a virtual prohibi- tion. At » Ky burgh. ,01 At prefent a fimilar difputc is in agitation con- cermng the cftaMifliment of a printing-prcfs at Winterthur. The right will fcarceiy be contro- verted ; but as the caufe will be finally determin- ed by Zunc, it remains a doubt whether that government will be fufficiently difinterefted to dccuie in favour of Winterthur againft its own burghers. In all other refpeas, excepting in thefe two articles of trade fo profitable to Zuric, the com- merce of Winterthur lies under no reltraint. The principal manufaaures are muflins, printed cot- tons, and cloth. Some vitriol works arc carried on with confiderablc fuccefs. The town is fmall, and its inhabitants amount to about two thoufand ; who are for the moft part remarkably induftrious. The fchools in ^is petty ftate are well endowed and regulated. 1 he public library contains a fmall collcaion of books, and a great number of Roman coins and medals, chiefly found at Ober- Winterthur: among the moft rare I obferved a Didius Tulia- nus and a Pertinax. Ober-Winterthur, or Up- per Winterthur, at prefent only a fmall village near the town, in the high road leading to Frauen- lield, is the fite of the ancient Vitodurum, a Ro- man ftation, and the moft confiderablc place ia this neighbourhood. No other remains of its former confequence fubfift but the foundations of antient walls, and the numerous Roman coias and medals which have been difcovered. The Koman road, which once traverfed the marfhes between Wmterthur and Frauenfield, is no longer vifible. \ tot E T T E R It. viSWc, b.ca.fc i. form* ,he found.uon of .he ana tne ai j^c hiftorv of this country, cT/ aid followed the interregnum of the 'Tn'he beginning of the i.th century the coints' of Kvbur.h poffeff^d t c counues J^ %. burgh, Lentzburgh, and Bad-n . a ^^^^^^^^ ^^ top es were iurther inc^eaiea i>y , Burgdorf and Thun whKh fe u. Ul-f^ ^_ right of his wife Anne, ^"er o duke of Z^ringen upon he Je-ife^ot ^^^^^^^^^ ^i.hout iffue -'-^ J^^t^Jof Hapfburg, on IL'Sth of ^s uncle Hartman the elder the the deatn or in* jnher tance render- \aft count of Kyburgh. Ihis "">^ • j„ ed Rhodolph one ot ^^^^.'^f^ P^^; "^^y to the there parts ; and P^'^^.^^^y °f "f^^^ Yhl empe- '"'^^''f frhts f^thlJ^ph -this heirs L ,or c-^«=^V° '^'^^r and his^ther dominions m county of M'^"'.f ' *^; ^^^^^^ of his fon, con- 5w tzerland ; and, on the acm. the fame firmed this grant to his grandfon John, u ^^ the hufband "^ ■^''""v„„„.r^ Kvburgh, until F-.efsh ^fn. letS^4 in ruku-sErabefcH... bung. |i« Kyburghp i®j who aflaflinated his uncle, the emperor Albert f, and was called the Patricide. Upon Albert's affaffination, the fons of that emperor feized and kept poffeflion of Kyburgh and the other hereditary domains in Switzerland, ^nd tranfmitted them to their pofterity. In 1 424, the emperor Sigifmond put under the ban of the empire Frederic duke of Auftria, and granted for a fum of money the county of Kyburgh to Zuric. In 1442 it was reftored to the Houfe of Auftria; but, in 1452, was finally ceded to Zuric by Sigifmond, archduke of Auftria, in order to liquidate a debt of a thoufand florins. From that time it is has formed^ bailliage in the canton of Zuric ; but the title of Count of Ky- burgh has been always retained by the Houfe of Auftria, and is ftill affumed by its prefent illuf- trious defcendant Jofeph the Second. The caftle of Kyburgh, which ftands in a ro- mantic and wild fituation, has been conftrufted at different periods. Part is antient, and not improbably the fame as exifted in the time of Rhodolph 5 although I could not difcovcr a date anterior to 1424, the year in w-hich it was grant- ed to Zuric. In an apartment* which was formerly a ftable, I obferved the portraits of all the bailifs who have refided in the caftle from the time of its ceflion to Zuric. The bailif enjoys greater • powers than are ufually delegated by an arifto- cratical government. In criminal proceedings, \ic is only required to confult the jury of the diftria, f See Letter 14, %, 104 LETTER 12. diftria, though he is not bound by their opinion, and can inflid capital punifhment without the neceflity of referring the fentencc to be confirmccj by Zuric, Frauenfield. }^S LETTER 12. Frauenfield—Of the Helvetic Confederacy^ Diets. LETTER r ROM Winterthur I paffed to Frauenficld, a fmall town, or rather village, capital of Thurgau, containing fcarcely a thoufand inhabitants ; and only remarkable as being the place where, fincc 1712, the deputies of the Swifs cantons affembic at the general diet. This conferacy owes its origin to the treaty contradedin 1308, between Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, at the memorable revolution of 1308*. The acceffion of Zuric, Berne, Lucerne, Zug and Glarus, gave ftrength and folidity to this union, and a century and a half elapfed before a new member was admitted. At length, in 1501, Friburgh * See Letter 2$, I »o6 LETTER 12. Friburgh and Sokure being, after much difficul- tv, i^ceivcd into the league ; upon that occafion the eight anticnt cantons entered mto a cpvenant, called the Convention of Stantx, by which the ar- tides of union and mutual proceaion were finally ^' No change therein has been effedea by the fub<-equent reception of the three other caiUons, B.n.; Shaffhaufen, and .Appenzel ; they having fabfcribed to the fame terms which Friburgh and Soleure had accepted. Without emeTing, how- ever, into a minute detail, I (hall endeavour, in this letter, to lay before you 51 Hiort VKW of the Helvetic confederacy. . iL code of public law, if I may fo exprefs .t, between the combmed r.pablic of bw.tzerland is founded upon the treaty of f be.npach m , ,0^ ; upon the convemion of Stantz ; and upon the treaty of peace concluded in 7. , at Arau, between the Pr«teftant and Catholic cantons. It appears from thefc feveral treaties -h.ch mc udc oV enlarge thofe that preceded, that the Hclveuc • See l^ter 26. ■ \ . ^ ^^r wu + This treaty, which" regulates the "''^f^'./ '^f;;^'^^'^ cntrafled Between the ^ish^'^'^! "7™;'"c~ "Sr with the republic of Soleure. It ordams. that no Sw.U loljier £\ quir hi, r«>ks i,. the time of aftion. even al.hough he ihould be dangerouily wounded : " Nou. en,endo„/a«m que fi quelqu'"" «•'«»« "^^'^^ .. quelque facon que ce fuft en combntant ou e" affa.lUn .. de forte qu'l ferok inutile pour fe ^^^-^^ '-^ ^^^''^X- .. ,on abftant aulT. avec les autres, jufques ». "/l^'^j^j „ .. taille foit expiree : et pour cela ne ^^ra eft>a.6 fayard « ne Ten fafchera-t-on en fa perfonnc ny en fon bien aucu, " nement." ■ «i Helvetic Union, 107 liQion IS a perpetual defenfi^e alliance between the thirteen independent contrading powers, to pro- ted each other by their united forces againit all foreign enemies. Accordingly, if any member of the union fhould be attacked, that particular canton has a right to demand luccours from the * whole confederate body \ and in caie of war^ the .* The refpeaaabic author of the Accmnt of Siuitzerland^ has fallen into a miftake in his defcription of the Hdveric union ; ?M his error has been adopted by the AbLd Mably, in his Droit Public de V Europe ^ by the compilers of the Encydopedie i and by feveral other writers of diftinc- tion. After having giyen a defcription of the Helvetic union, he concludes the relation as follow.s : ^^ ** So far are they (the thirteen cantons) from making one " body or one commonweajrh, that only the th^ee old can- *' tons are di-eaiy allied with every one of the other twelve. I* There is in.Ieed fuch a conneaion ellabliibed between them] ** that, in cafe any one canton were attacked, all the other ** twelve would be obliged to mcrch to its fuccour , but it *'^ would be by virtue of the relation, that two cantons may ** have to a third, and not of anv direa alliance fubfifting ** between every one of them. As for example : of the eight ** old cantons, Lucerne has a right of calling but five to its ** fuccour, in cafe of attack j but then fome of thofe five ** have a right. of calling others, with whom they are allied, *J though Lucerne be not ; fo that at laft all niuft march by ** virtue of particular alliances, and not of any general one " amongft them all." ^ The above-cited account of the Helvetic union, would better have fuited the league of the eight cantons before the cofivention of Stantz ; when the confederate dates were not LETTER ii' t E T T E R J3" RouU by Water from Zuric to ^f^^'^-^'-'fi' 'f Wettingen^Baden-CaJlle ofHapJburgh. Instead of following the ufual route by itnd from Zurlc to Bafle, we P'-^J"^^^ f^t greatcft part of the way by water. We embark ^dabout\wo - the afte-oo-^^^^^^ l^i:Sr^^^^o::ry^^ ^ o^y dangero- as exircmci; J £ violent lains, wncu r jjjgjg ,g are covered with water, ai o"'^ , no danger, provided the Watermen are fober and '"Sur'boat' was flat-bottomed at.d bng, and .a^r^wed or rather fleered by three watermen, who ufed their oars merely to direft the vcU^' • The flream being fufficienty.^ t^:? ten miLrthI ho^ur.^'^The water is beau ski^^^ratt^tr^^^^^^^ i "^ii i w .m ft; nir^M 1 •? •? ^ -' \ > ?5 ^ ) ) ^<< V ^ ^ \ X > ^Ov T«- -« » . % . % Hi Bdden. "3 gently rife into hills clothed with pafture and wood, or divided into vineyards ; are'^laftly qukf perpendicular, and fringed to the water's ele with hanging trees. ^ ^^bout a mile from Baden, where the Limmat trbrin"^ 'h,P''''^ "Pi'^'^X' -« ftot under he bridge of Wettmoen with fuch velocity, that on ll "^TT "^ ''"''"'™'^ "^ ^^^'^ P4ai«n oth^r S- V"»P^!-^^P"biy found myfelf on the other. h.s beautiful piece of mechanifm is a wooden bridge, two hundred and forty fee. in the furface of the water : it was the iafl work of nennoned ,n a former letter, and is far fuperior T,f^f " '° •''^^ °f Schaflhaufen. ^ hnr^h I' v'^'^ ^' ?^'^^"' ^"'^ ^^'^'ed to Hapf. burgh, .Schintznach, Konigsfelden, and Windilh ; of ^uhich places 1 fhall give you a fhort deicrip! Baden derives its name from the neighbourintr warm baths, which are mentioned by thean! ve"iZ " names pf^y«^ and nerma: He/. Baden was a Roman fortrefs, erefted to curb the AUemanm or Germans ; and was rafed to the ground, when the Helvetians, who fupport- v1.. I- ' b'-" '■°"''='^ ''y ^■^='"^' general to Vitelhus. Being rebuilt, it was taken by the Germans ; fell afterwards under the dominion of I^f.?'' K V'^'"'' '" "'"'^""^ '^'^"'"^X' '"<^on'o- ra ed ,„ the German empire; became fucceffivelv fubjea to the dukes of Z^ringen, to the comitl of Kyburgh, and to Rhadolph of HaplLurgh. in 1418 when his defcciidant Frederic, duke of ^ '''"'• i ' Auliria, i, LETTER 13- the emperor S.g.f™ond adrnmcd to^^.^^^ tons until the year . 7 ' ^' ^J^^^^/^J'^^ can- ScnTL'lfandatthepea^o^^^^^^ . j;ded to thofe .two can^- -d ^ hr^Vs right on account ot i« neutral y, p ^.^ ^^^^ of pint-lbvere.gnty. ,f ""^^4"°|nefs, >.hen, not however, prove ^^=1'-//^?"^ ^t"^^^^^^^ difputes content >.ith ^^rot fits they xaded from in favour of the Proteltants, uicy he Catholic cantons the ceffion oj Ba^ J,^^^^^ "^'^ ^? *'f r SSc conft tuti^n. The um- the bafis ot *h^,",7"" c Ttholic cantons at this brace concef\'ed by the i^atnoin. -occlude a fw was the principal inducement to concm ■ JeT^etual alliaLe with ^"""^"Xn of that ■ '''% TnS f^pttlt a^uThTn; t been P'''' [^a bv the general treaty which Louis XVI. annulled by t.e gene ; .^ ^^ contraaed with the tmrteenc cantons Until 1712, th^ '^'f' .Llheenf nee transfer, ^fff-mbled at Baden ; but has been l"^^"; Sn^auenfi^U The t^^^^^ ^^ rthaStl°a their - magiftrates, and have their own ju - al courts^ ^^^ . proceedings, an appeal lies to me ^^^^^ SchiMznach. ur from his dccifion to the fyndicate, compofed of the deputies of the three cantons, and in the laft refort to the three cantons themfelves. In penal caiifes, the criminal court condemns, and the baihf enjoys the power of pardoning, or miti- gating the fentence. The county or baiiiiage contains about 24,000 fouls. From Baden we walked through an agreeable and well-wooded country for fome way along the fide of the Limmat, whofe fteep banks are cover- cd with vines to the edge of the water : and in about tNvo hours croffed the Reufs into the can- ton of Berne. Having paffed through a plain we arrived at the baths of Schintznach, a place remarkable for its agreeable pofuion on the banks o\ the Aar, and its tepid mineral waters. It is a^:o well known as being the firft place where the Helvcfic fociety affembled. This fociety, formed by ome of the moft learned men in Switzerland, both of the Catholic and Reformed religion, firfh ' helped to extend the fpirit of toleration, and to Jelieu that antipathy whicii fubfifted between the members of the two perluafions. Ifs publications have tended to promote a general zeal for the diftufion of polite literature. The meeting of this iberal fociety is now transferred to Olten a linall town in the canton of Soleure. Near Schintznach ftands, on a lofty eminence, the rums of the caftle of Hapfburgh, to which we afcended through a wood of beech, t'nat feemed almod coeval with the date of the caltle itielf. Thefe rums confilt of an antient tower, conftruaed with malTy ftones, in a rude ftyle of architedure, and part of a fmall building of much later date. ^ ^ 3 ■' It -•^1 I ii6 I. E T T»E It i3' century, by Werner ^jAiop of Stralburgn volved to t^^^'^^^, ^" , , (\r(} nerfon upon re- "4'; d" .o .h. lord of Wo «" ^ ';,;5'4 ■« » °he „pi.d W B«t»=.^»:2/,^'jSroTA»ft.i,, and the ^e*°™;' °S' ""' adually gone to decay ; and government : nas grduuai ; 5 fs noM' inhabited by a Pf ^"''^ ^^unded view This caftlc commands an unbounacu ,ver hills and dales, plains andtc^e^^nvcrs and lakes '^JVat ex^eS'po.er to .hich alps, cmbletn of that ^xte^it or p ^^^^^^ the talents oUneman, J° derived ' ^^^3, ^'^^^ ""If' "^t oe^e 1 allud to Rhodolph YhZK^'^^ a fimple baron o tiSSf became emperor, and founded the Houfc of Auftria. ^ fignaliz- Rhodolph ^vas born m, 2 8 Me fgn ^^^^ •"^ '" ^'rtw at rf " u-xp'aedly railed contention, nc was, m ^7 j, \.„nferred ho- to the dignity ot emperor, and conterre ^^^^ ;.j" V Hapjlur^h. nour on that exalted fiation, no lefs by his no died in 1 291, after a long and elorious reie-n .nH in the feventy-third year of his^T ^ ' '"'' the Xt'ot't''^'^ '-'"^r l^ ^ -nfidered, on burl and k T'? ^^ '^e Houfe of Hapf- Durgn, and its gradual progrefs towards tLt Hore SS"" t"; " ''^ fi-e ^tained'unde S Zl>wf T'^^M ^PP^»«ion oftheHoufe ?mlt::S-\hL7pfwh"o"efo"'^°"'P"^"-^ which, having 7e?eivld nr "." ""'"""'" ' ftream's. form? n^Tconfid/rairrter""?!'"!'^'^ through Switzerland, ftii, almoft un" 'o wn tTS neighbours, it no fooner enters German^han kfes us name by its juhclion with the Danube rvt'To7 TT^' '""^ ''''^'^ °f --S fl f pare ^f>e guerre, porta f „o„ tributi at mart .. Rhodolph, during his refidence in this caftlc would not have given crerlif tr. n 1 c i •' with the fn.v.v f , ^ P'^''^<'° endowed inform.^ T u P'-°Phfcy, uho ftould have informed him, that, in little more than ac^n S;; tLw ^' •"''"k'''"' -'^''^'^ then "fc r r; reredLrHo'' •''""" ^'^ dcfcendants from thai? nnln K -^ domimons in Switzerlahd ; and erett upon their rums, and on the bafis of ;qual ]£- * TaiTo. W ty. „8 L E T T E R 13. tv a formidable confederacy, which would be c^ted by the -|f P-y!;^Vtli:;X iha hi lefs perhaps J°"Xf^\,^/^pS throne, and himfe f (hould Poflf; J^^j '" P^nd that his lineal Knttfiltre^;:/Oer.any, I^un.ary Bohemia, Auftria, bpam B"^P"f y,'. ."^^ ^^ Countries, Milan, , N aples, ^n^ S c y and extend their dominion and n""^"". ^'^, the Euxlne to a New World beyond the At- lantic. LETTER Koningsfelden, 119 LETTER lA. i ""\-. Konigsfeldm^WindiJh^Voyage down the Rhine. » TT in A y I N G fatisfied our curiofity at the caf- A "\ ^='P^"''g'i *» that cradle of the Houfe of Auftna, which ftijl confers a title on Jofeph If. we defcended into the plain of Konigsfelden, to a converit ot the fame name, built by Elizabeth, oil the fpot where her hufband Albert was af. faflinated. The occafion of this affaffination, and the circumftances attending it, were as follow. Albert, as guardian to his nephew John of Hapiburgh, had taken poffcflion of his hereditary dominions in Switzerland, and refufed, under various pretences, to deliver them up to him At length, wearied with repeated and fruitlefs fohcitations, John entered igto a confpiracv agamft the emperor, with l^hodolph de Wartli, \Z Tf T '' """" \-\"'*, "f; "^rft"rgh, fituared near the lake of Lucerne, which 1 vifited in 1779. Some author, have erroneoufly afferred. that this was the caftle from which onirn"""" r"^^ 'heir titles. But Hergot has refute.! this opm,on ; at,d unquefttonably proved that honour to be due to the caftle of Hapfturgh wh.ch i have defcribed in this letter. &ee Hergot, Gen. Dipl. Augf. Dornus Habfb. Ulric T E T T E R '4- T, 1 w ,lther dc Efchenbach, and Conrad de T-Agerfeld. j^j^ ^ ^^ -Ihe emperor dintd «! ^'^^f Jj^^j^ „f guabia, RheinfaJen, a town in the ^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^here the e'^Pf-\.VL,ruMth which he pro- confvJerable body of "°°VS| "" Uri,Schweitz, pe,ied invading the t'-c e J.to . o V r ^^ U Underwalden, ^^^^ ' ,^^'^/',ho have re- him. Contemporary Kiaumns ^^^^^ cordea the -'-telt c.rcun^danc« ^^.^ tranlaaion, relate, tha rWW ^ nts during the repaft *' ^"^^^'"ff.ffion of his again entreating to be put .op ^^ ^.^ h'creditnry ^^"Ta e'a^bnd of Iwers upon his ol banter, placed a g'J^^"^ » yhis will be head, adding, at the fame J-^' ^t,,„ ^^e « more fu table to you, for the P.. .^.^^.^ S ^o^fdttr ;^S::uSpo^ Jo f. down to *'''^'^" ^- ..r Mhert continued his journey on Aiter dinner Albert co Leopold, hcrfeback, accompanied ^^ h', ^^^^^ ^^^ the conipirators, and f'^l^^fh, in the canton came near the J^" ^"^^^^^^r ^hich river paf- of Berne, to the ^^"^l^J^ ^ ^ft. Ihe fengers were ^f ^>'^ j^^' ^ .".^d were followed conlV>rators vff-^^.^^''^ «„, expeding by Albert : as he ^^'^ X"-^^;^^,, of his fuite, his (on Leopold and the ---" ^ne of he was luodenly belet by t ^ f_ them fclzing h.s -f ^J^^^^^f ^'j Jtice in detain- burgh reproached ' >'" ^^^^^^^j, [i^, ^n the neck Konigsfelden. 131 with his fword : Rhodolph de Warth wounded him in the fide; and Uiric de Palme clove his head with a fabre. In this condition, they left him expiring upon the ground. This afTalfination was committed the firfl: of May i;o;>, in the open day, and in the fight of his fon Leopold, and the refl: of his court, who had not as yer paffed the river ; and who, though witneffes to the murder, vtt coi'ld not aflifl: the emperor. The field lies between the Aar and the Reufs, not far from the jundioa of thofe two rivers ; and the very fpot, where he was maf- facred, is marked by a convent, erccled by his wife Elizabeth and his dau'^hter Agnes : the place was called Koningsfelden. or King sfield ; a name it retains to this day. The remains of the emperor were buried in the convent of Witter- ling, from whence they were afterwards tranf- ported to Spire, and there interred. The afTafliiis efcriped into the cantons of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, expeding to find a fure afylum in a nation, which Albert was pre- paring to invade. But the generous natives, detefting a crime of fo atrocious a nature, al- thouojh committed upon the perfon of their greatcft and mofl: formidable enemy, rcfufed to prcted the murderers. D'Efchdnbach concealed himfelf in the difguife of a common labourer dur- ing thirty years, nor was his rank difcovered till he coTifeffed it upon his death-bed ; De Palme, deftirute of common neceffaries, died in extreme poverty ; and De Warth, tied to a horfe's tail, like a common malefador, and dragged to the place of execution, was broken upon the wheel. John of Hapfburgh, commonly known by the appeliatioa : r 122 LETTER 14. „ . f ^.^rir'tde from this affaflination, did wherehediedm i3'3- turned her whole The widow of AI^^^J' ,he death of her thoughts towards «v^«^^ ^,,i,,d the inno- hu(bar.d ; and m th s purfu ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ""n a nLaion wlVh the affaffins, being fa- fmalleft connettion *"!' i,^ to the manes crificed >«th "nd'ftj;^g;;„^S;th tiree cantons «' *'%:raT;-ye^s?refTto the undifturbed en- were, for a tew y ' ^ to ftrengthen ^K^'"'rlefa.anftanTfut-e attack; and thus ;J:ytnocemly - the fole advantage whtch tJ derived frL t^j^-f SToTingsfelden com- .''^^ '°"S its SSfe p^3s, a nunnery "^Tt oTde o St CI re/and a monaftery of '^^ 'K oflhl order of minorites, feparated from monks ol tne oruci u. endowed by ^.f fS Sr\:^Ls JdTefdaVe^ Agnel Ehzabcth her hvc lo , ^^^ ^^^^^ f ^ queen of «""f ^'^j^ J the remainder of her days, nun, =^"'* J'"^ P?!„ie abbey was fecularized. At. the reformation ^.^^ .^'?'''^-^„nn,ent : part ^?\'^'tLXr: ht r Jr£ce"o" the bJiUf. ;Lfwas"co"v!neTSto an hofpital. and part was fuffered ^o /ajljo -m ^ ^^ ^^^ ^'"Ln exift in the ° original ftate ; and one. rn"p:nfcul:r fs diftfnguilheLs t, habitation nx M queen Agnes lived and died. The ■ « Konigsfclden. 123 » The chapel ftill rernains entire, but is no longer ufed for divine fervice. The glafs win- dows are beautifully coloured, and painted with various hillories of the Old Teftament ; with the portraits of Elizabeth and Agnes, of the em- peror Albert, and his fons. On the walls alfo are coarfely reprefented the figures of Leopold duke of Auftria, and the princippal nobles who perifhed at the battle of Sempach. Hizabeth and Agnes, and feveral princes and princeffes of the Houfe of Auftria, were buried in this cha- pel ; but fhcir bones were a few years ago re- moved to the abbey of St. Blaife, in the Black Forell, where they were depofited with great pomp, and magnificent fepulchres erefted to their memory. Near Konigsfelden is the fmall village of Win- difh, {landing at the conflux of the Aar and the Reufs, and luppofed by antiquarians to occupy the lite of Vindonijfa^ a Roman fortrefs mentioned by Taciius. In traverfing the place I did not ob- ferve the leaft figns of any antiquities; but vari- ous lapidary infcriptions, mile-ftones, fepulchral urns, medals, coins, and gems, which have been found in great abundance, fufficiently prove, that it mull have been the ftation of a large Roman colony. The reader, who is inclined to reflcd on the vicifTitudes of human pofleflions, will recoi- led with pleafure the following quotation, which lb happily relates to the prefent fubjed: " With- " in the antient walls of VindoniiTa, the caftle of *' Hapiburgh, the abbey of Konigsfeld, and the " town of Bruck, have fucceflively arifen. The ** philofophic traveller may compare the monu- ^' ments of Roman conqueft, of feudal or Auf- . ' ** trian i! ( 4\ ill 124 f^ T T E R U- i„g conM«r.blyt.elledt.yt ^^^ •«r^ ffif» T^hine vvinc: in uze and rapiaiiy witi* being tranfparent, and of a lea-green co u , ^° Stt iks "o?'X Rhine are far fuperior In JaitfSbU to thofe of the A- ^ parts rifing P^P'L"'!*^"*^^^' Se decliv ties, and eigteen ™'« '" *.h »h= c the Rhine form. Voyage down the Rhine. 11$ • Gibbon's Decline and Fall of tbe Roman Empire, vol. iii. p. 563. the fall of the fame river near SchafFhaufen, yet deferves to be vifited by travellers for the beau- ties of the fcenery. As 1 flood upon the crags of the northern fhore of the river, the principal objefts were, a high bridge, partly open and partly covered, fupportedby three lofty ftone piers; on the fouth a row of houfcs, with an old ruined caftle on the fummit, boldly overhanging the water ; a perfpeftive of woods and meadows un- der the arcades of the bridge ; and the river ualh- ing over its craggy bed, in a floping catiirad, un- til it lofes itfelf fuddenly among the rocks which clofe the view. About half a mile below this fall we re-em- barked, and found the waters in many parts more agitated than thofe of the Limmat ; parti- cularly near Rheinfelden, where they rulh with fuch increafmg velocity, that they were troubled like the waves of the fea, and, beating againft the boat, turned it obliquely by their violence. Here we were hurried along with fuch rapidity, that though 1 had a pencil in my hand, I had no time for obfervation, much lefs for defcription ; I could only catch a general glance of the ro- mantic fcenery, as we palled under a pifturefque bridge of feveral arches, fufpended high above the iurface of the river, and joined to a fteep rock, on which towered fome majeftic ruins. In many parts, and for a confiderable way, our vcffel paffed within a few inches of the (helving rocks, and was only prevented from flriking againft them by the dexterity of the pilot. As iU:. i)i 126 LETTER »4- As we approached Bafle the ftream became gradually ?'fs rapid ; and we difembarked, bghly delighted with our expedition. Bafle, »*7 LETTER 15. 11 i; LETTER The Town of Bafle— Erafmus— Library— Holbein. I Arrived at Bafle, as I fuppofed, about twelve at noon; but was much furprized to find, that all the clocks in the town aftualiy ftruck one : and, on inquiry, I was informed, that they con- ftantly go an hour fader than the real time. Dif- ferent reafons have been affigned for this fmgu- larity: fome aflert, that it was firltpraaifed dur- ing the council of Bafle, in order to aflemble, at an earlier hour, the cardir^Is and bifliops, who being very lazy and indole:^, always arrived too late. Others maintain, that a confpiracy being formed to aflfaflinate the magiftrates at midnight ; one of the burgomafters, who had notice of the defigrl, advanced the town-clock an hour; by which means the confpirators, imagining they had miflTed the appointed time, retired ; and that the clocks are ilill kept in the fame advanced ftate, as a perpetual memorial of this happy de- liverance. But there is a third reafon given for this -ifi -mnm - 1 E T t E R '5- ft^m «.hich feems the molt pro- babk It is v,ell kno.n hat the ^^^ ^^^ _ ^^^^ thedrals are •^o^^""''! ' f,„m this dircclion ; of Hafle declines fomev,hai from tms ^^^_ ,„d the fundiaj .h:ch - ^^^ ^ .o.U-cloc^ fide ot the choir, and "^y f ^^is dech- • is aUvays ^•^P"'^''^?,; J^'^'fhkh, according to , nation; a -rcumftan ^Jh-..^^ ^ ^,^^,^.,, I the cekbrated B"'^^"'^' ° ^^e and forty mi- { from the true time of above nvc BUtcs. .- . „ „ g dill fo ftrongly The inhabitants of Bafle are ^^^ attached to this ^hm^fical cuft°"J' J 5 ^^^^. U has been often propofed •» ^^^^^ ^^ ^he mo- cil ,0 regulate their -clocks W y> J ^^^ ^^^ tionhas been invariably rqcea .^^^^^^^ uould fulpea that ;he'r I t/^^';^h thofe of the it their clocks .ere o agr « ^^^^^^j j, j. veft ot Europe A kw y a ^^.^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^"S r? h fnn d al half a minute a day, until the hand of the 1"^ ?'"' ^''jiblv point to the true fhadow "^""I'l^^^P^;^;?^^^^^^^ Tccordingly prac- • ^°"'- ?1! S had Ilready loft near three lifed, and the clock haU a j difcovered quarters of an hour,^^!^ ^^^"ere accordingly ?he defign : the '"^f^^^^^f .^e fun-dial in its compelled to P»^" f^^^^^^'^e the hours by it ^''^r rSe^d long eftablilhed cuftoms, ho.- as ufual. Indeea, lou^, j^^^ke ever indifferent ^V^nuoonCurar minds, as to fo ,Uong an ^X^'^Z^;^,--^ always dif- become fof«"'"",3. elpecially among a ^^"^ IL'th^i^t t i'coumJy, wf are averfe Tat Kef-- - ^^^ -""^^^^ ""^"neel need not remind you, how long it was before we could be perfuaded in England, to reckon our years according to the general mode of computa- tion received by the reft of Europe. Bafle is beautifully fituated upon the banks of the Rhine, near the point where that river, which here becomes very broad, deep, and rapid, after flowing for fome way from eaft to well, turns' luddenly to ^.e north. It confills of two towns joined togetner by a long bridge ; the lar^c town hes on the fide of Switzerland, and the Imall town on the oppofite banks of the river It ftands very favourably for commerce; an ad- vantage which the inhabitants have by no means negleded : for they have eftablifhed a great varie- ty of manufaftures, particularly of ribbands and cottons ; and an extenfive trade is carried on by the principal merchants. The cathedral is an elegant gothic building but ftrangely disfigured by a daubing of rofe! coloured paint fpread over the whole edifice This cathedral contains the afhes of Gertrude Anne countefs of Hohenburgh, and wife of the emperor Rhodolph I. fhe died at Vienna, ia 1281, and her body was conveyed to Bafle. 'lier . two chriftian names gave rife to much confufion and led many hiftorians to conclude that Ger' trude and Anne were two different perfonages and fucceffive wives of that emperor ; while others ridiculoufly fuppofed that both were married to him at the fame time : nor were thefe erroneous opinions confuted, and the controverfy finally fettled, till Hergot, the laborious geneaioffift * of Vol. I. K ^ the ♦ See Hergotti Geneal. Diplom, Dom. Auft. V9l i p. 125. % 1 i!\ ) t ,30 LETTER »5 . , « f „f Anftna nroved, from the moft un- the Houfc of Aultnaj prove , diplomes, ?he identity of this ^mded F^^rfonagc a the miftake arofe from her bemg ""^"'"^'y L^^ g::„d= before ^JX^IW s1>= boJ'S the performance of that ceremo y berhufband fourteen f ^^^^^ ' "7„eWas her ..other of fo large -^^^>r ^^^ ^,, f.f. StX2Stfea^fae-d=^^^^^ Erafmus. That -^^ft^^f "^X "legance of iT'L Sft ^ -^rhe poinid, not fty e, the kecneii ^ ^ ignorance of the monks, nous, and an open preach w uh ^^yj.^^, ,,, Rome feemed mevua^k n ^^ ^^^^^_ proceedings of that bc^a ^e ^^^^ant- '^r' TaithtSVLd h?if "'^^"'^'^ f '^ able -, and althougn ne u- -cc^ a »he catho- cxpofed the corruptions that mfeacd trie Uc'religion -, y«\J^<;,=;l°,t3 of S called t: " unS L?cl' Agreeably to thefe fen- timents he advifed the proteftants to endeavour robia' ning, by mild and patient meafures what ?iey mSgEdiLcctly lofc by a warmer and more Violent oppofuion. g^^i^ Baje. J^^ Such temperate counfels were ill fuitcd to the • tT^ ''u-, '"IP^r"' ^P*"' °^ L"'hcr. Accord- ingly, while Lrafmus was ading the part of a mediator and endeavouring to moderate and lelt the difpleafure of both parties : and, in allu- lionto this terrporizing condua, one of his ad- verfanes applied to him, not unaptly, that line in Tetras inter calumque M^ «e Mechel, a cclebrat(>H aw.-ft c\-, ^^' already enerav,-H ? h r . °^ f'^" P^aee, has a worl wS cain^ f T '^^^^^^^^^ defigns ; ceptable to t ^ adSs ,' the fi"^ "^^""^ ^^' has added four enn-avllf ^- u "^ *""• He raders 135 LETTER raders of feveral of the figures in the dance of death, that the author fketched them while he was m England. They were, probably, in the Arundelian colleaion when Hollar engraved them. ^ He has finiftied alfo a fet of prints from the fine paintmgs of the DulTeldorf gallery, and like- wife engravings of the famous Hedlinger's me- dais. 1 his able artift has a fmall but well-chofcn coiledion of paintings : and his magazine of prints (in which article he carries on a very confidera- , ble trade) is perhaps one of the largeft and moft complete in Europe. I am acquainted with no perfon to whom the curious traveller can addrefs himfelf with greater advantage than to Mr. de Mechel, nor from whom he can receive more iifeful information. To a particular knowledge of the phyfical beauties of Switzerland, he joins a thorough acquaintance with the different go- vernments, cuftoms, and manners of the feveral cantons. As he is intimately conneded with the principal men of learning in this countrv, his letters of recommendation arc the moft defirable, and the moft beneficial, that can be procured • and he enjoys as much fatisfadion in conferrincr. as ^?n be received by accepting, his good office! He indeed poffeffes a great fund of good-humour, an amiable iranknefs of difpofition, and a certain origmahty of manner, which, together with his other valuable Qualities, recommend him as a no lefs pleafing than ufeful acquaintance. I vifited alfo the fmall but pleafing colleftion of piaures, moftly of the Flemifh and Dutch fchools, belonging to Mr. Faefch, member of the Great Council. In the court-yard before his houfe is a woodeii ft Pajle- m underneath I obfervedThe t 'T"'' '"^'^"'^ ' of that emperor's cornlV' °^ ."73, the ara of the fculptu °e renT ' '°° V ^"'^ '^^ ^"^enefs origina of thif Jr . ' " ^'°^^^^^ *^« « « an his eleftion. The Pates "«!? ^^f- 'f "'""' °^ open ; and he waf ?nftXT ^^^ediately thrown into that town "Sch ha>ftnr> "' ' ^"'"'^ him as their enemv n 1- "' "^ ^ates againft a fhort time at B^J; and ^"^ h'^°" ^' ^^«^^^ this very houfe ' * ' ^"''"'°" "■^'^^es, in I am, &C. LETTER 138 BETTER i6. LETTER 16. Government of BaJJe. ■ f r* T HE bilhops of Bafle once poffcfled the fovereignty of over the city and canton ; but were • gradually deprived their prerogatives; and, in 1501, finally quitted this town, when the canton joined the Helvetic confederacy. They at firit retired to Friburgh in Brifgau, and afterwards, cftabliihing their refidence at Porentru, they entirely loft the trifling authority and inconfiderable prerogatives which remained to them. Upon the introduction of the reforma- tion in 1525, the conftitution was in fome mea- fure changed j and the power of the ariftocracy limited. ^ It would feem in theory fcarcely poffible to divide the ariftocratical and democratical com- monwealths into fo many different fpecies as cxift in Switzerland : for, in this country, every re- public has its peculiar modification ; and there is none I 'i • Bajle. • 5,r."'°''',^'"^"'^^^^^" that of Bafle T -^^ ™e general outlines of th. S- . ^° ^'ew 'he appearance of an.hf . °""""°"' " has ^'"^, upon confideHnl •! •°'"^' ariftocracy + j found \o incHne tSwafdsl d". '''"''' " "^'' ^e Preme legiflative p^wer r^r/""- "^^y- The fu- I^mle Councils, coSTnrof K '" 't' ^^^^' ^"^ menibers : and the au Kv f ^V''"'" ''""^'^d combined, is v.iS^ Sl'l ^'' VT '°""^"^ Jaws ; declare war and r^lTl ^hey enad and impofe taxes they^'eTed Sf Ir^^ ^"/^"^es j Urates ; appoint thArl "^^ ^^^^ral ma?i. to all ;:npT;rnems an5 '""?'^^" > '^"-'"ale b"'gher4/ The general if-'-^^^- "^'^^ ^^ vernment is comniiS^ . ainuniftration of go. the.Senate, cfSrCo.^Jjf f S?-' ^-"-fto f "s own body. Th^S ' ' ''' '° ^ Part fixty members, toeether wli?^'u' /"""Pofed of fl republic, twoCr/omatrs ^" ^'''^^^ ^^ "bunes. is divided into two h'^-'''^ 'T S^^^' by rotation. The aSW 7 -r""^'"' ^^'^^ ad office one year ; decide?fin'',f °? continues in «"f« ; fuperintends the ^V^ '" '" "''"'"^' feveralotherpowersfuhnJ '' ^"'^ ^^^^"fes .^"ncil. Th'e co£S,e b2T ' '^'""^"^ I'Jcs only once a year Lh.„ I ""^^"* affem- year, when the magiftratcs pub. iicly -f ;"^-'^J^b7iiS 'r''"^) ■"-- ""« fc™ of ,0- Mclufivelv nf rk ^ ^"^ Supreme power in .u , ? fi--"S of the ie??'^^ but here /^r„ b ; ,• "thrt" r^^, Sth^rr'-- '^^ ^'Se^::e^cSn 140 LETTER 16. licly take an oath to maintain the conftitution, and preferve the liberties and immunities of the people, inviolate. The reciprocal oath of obe- dience to the laws, is adminiftered to the citizens in their refpeaive tribes. But, notwithftanding the great and bound- lefs prerogative of the Great Council ; yet the meaneft citizen is legally capable of being ad- mitted into that body ; and, by the fingular method of eleQion, may poffibly be chofen. For, the vacancies in the two councils are fup- plied from all ranks of citizens, one clafs only excepted, the members of the univerfity. Thefe citizens are divided into eighteen tribes, called in German Zuenfte ; fifteen of which belong to the larger town, and three to the fmaller : each ' of the firrt-mentioned fifteen tribes, returns four members to the Senate ; and each of the whole eighteen, fends twelve to the Great Coun- cil. Formerly thefe eledions were determined by a plurality of voices: but, as by thefe means the richeft perfon was always certain of be- ing chofen ; a iernaire was eftabliflied in 1718 ; that is, three candidates were nominated, and from thefe the fucceffor was appointed j by Although t The fifteen tribes in the grtut fo%vn are called Zuenfte and the three in the fmall tov^n Gefellfc/mf ten, or companies* Ir may aHo be remarked, that the citizens of the fmall town enjoy more advantages than thofe of the great town ; inafmuch « the former may be appointed to public employments either m the tribes or in the companies; whereas a citizen of the great town cannot be admitted in:o the compaincs, unlefs he '«W»s in the fiiialj town. BaJIe. Although this mode of eledWnn ;« r fure put a ftoo to mrriw- '^ ^^"^^ ^^^ ficienf to coun^teraa eS^l ^''^ ^^^ '^^^ ^"f' wealthy : and as thlT^ '''' '-^^"^^^^ ^^ ^^e dom fucceed to Se m ^ h'"' "'"^""^ ^^"'^ fel. m 1740, changing the termir^fJ? r ^. ^^^^^ whKh fix cand1dais,^i2aTo 2^^^^^^ are inferted into one ba^ - and rh V '"^"^ ^^^'^ of tickets, fivc of ^Mrh ' u, ^f ^^^^ "^"^bcr marked with the vatm ''%^'^^k^' ^"d one is in another. illrTn^^^^ ''' P'^^^^ name comeTout at thVf "^ '^' "'^^^^^^^ ^^ofc of the forms and circumftln '""^^ ^<^'^°"n» give, however, fome eeneral?i ^k^'"' ^° -Upon a va«nr7in the Grea?rn"T'7^ jnftance, the fix Jndidates muf be SV '°' the citizens of thar tr;u^ . "^"it oe taken from ^vho occafion he va anc; bl . '^' P"'*'" be nominated by fachol > ''"^'1' ^"^ "'"» Great and r.-tfl.r •, ^'^^ members of the or chidi of each tribe cS /" "" ""''>'»« •re .ppoi„,ed b/t- G^JaVco^S" 1£ - I 142 I- E T T E R 16. s but one cafe, in which x\itfinalre is not prac- colleague, who ,s the great tribune, fuccecds of ;J^i?°N^'^?^'^!-^^^^ !".^"y inconveniences muft ncceffanly flow from this abfurd method of fup. plymg vacant ports in the government ; as they are left mtirely to the capricious difpofal of for- tune. In faa, u has not unfrequcntly happened, J^^i ^ ""'^''l^fe. ^hofe knowledge and abilities tendered him capable of being fefviceable to the itate, has never obtained the fuccefsful ticket • while fortune has beftowed it upon another by no means qualified to fulfil the duties of the employ- mem. However notwithftanding the ill effefts rdulting from this cafual method of eleftion • the management of public affairs is in general tolerably well condufled ; and there are few in Itances of civil juftice being unwifelyadminiftered. or of innocence being facrificed to iuperior wealth or power. But the counfellors of the ftate and feveral ma- giltrates, are not the only perfons chofen by lot • even the profeffors in the univerfity are eleded in the fame manner. The three candidates liowevcr. (for m this in (lance the ternaire is ftill aken fh?"5 ""'"'"^^ed fro.i thofe who have taken the degree of aoctor. Hence nothing is more common than for a candidate to offer him- felf for the profefforlhip of a fcience, which he has never^made the peculiar objed of his ftu- hJ!2 * *", -^V' f '*''' particular branch of htcrature m which he excels is already occupied - uhn "f f ^ '"'^ circumrtances, the refpeaivc utaqualified profeffors change places with each other. Bajle. other. Thus (to mention an inftance from a f, mily well known) John Bernonlll !», r "" majematical proUorin^thr" nU f^^^^^^^^^^ died in 1748. left three fons, Nichofas nw i and John, all juftly celebrated for thek Sin that fciencc, m which their father and uncle S eminently excelled. Nicholas died at St Peterf ScSc'es":^' Da°'- '^\'^^^^^ Academy" f therkS'R^L ''' ^"'"g followed his bro. the profefforA?; "T""^^ '° ^"^^ "'^ "Staining luc proreilorlhip of anatomy, which h^ nf^ ^ i?«r A r m'"" P'^^'ofophy, and died in I^A'r ^, {""''a"- ^^--cumftancc happened to th? third fon John : after being feveral tC ap^im- r"-r "°f"«efsful candidate in the lotteV^ f profefforfhips, chance at length conferre? n him the chair of rhetoric • W ^°''^^"^.^ on ther. death he chanJSf UhV^m^k" to whom fortune, with her ufual jud^nt had^affigned the profefforlhip of 3^ The advanced'age of srwhi h had .^11' '"''^^"''ftandmg hi, bctag „o„,iL.ed ct^dTd e for varS'i'?Je?';?r"r"^^^ "' continually excluded by fortune "^ """' ''*'' ''«» ■ S: e': S: I-ocum quo Sepeliretur de fuo acquifiTit JOH: GEORG SCHWEIGHAUSER J. U. L. Ducentum Vir Fori judiciarii et Apellationis Ultra XL. Annos affiduus Aflbflbr »44 L E T T E R i6. The fumptuary laws are very ftrift at Bafl^ - may be carrL; t' f ""'^ a ^^*^ ^^ '^is kind louLnd^vPn 'J" '"'"'= '""anccs, to a fcrupu: lous and even ridiculous minutenefs ; upon thr whole, however, they are excellent rcffXions and not only ufeful but neccffary in ?frS l " ' pubhc. They have certainly operated whh Lf; advantage in this town : for.^lt'liough irconSS feveral families who are conf.derablf r ch ' ei ' happy fimplicity of manners is ftiU fo nredom.- larife thofe articles which pafs under the odZ bnous denomination of fuJury ^^ The lower rank of citizens are in general f« ftrongiy prejudiced in favour of tISr own TnK 'L V'"^. *^°"''"^^'^ ^hat true felS; IS only to be found at Bafle : and indeed thlt clafs of people are in no part of the world more happy. Every perfon boafts that he is ?ree and IS fo in reahty : and, as the citizens not onlv oof fefs very coniiderable privileges and immunises beinrot'd'^'f r "'^ ^""^ '"^ulgc the h^^ of being one day chofcn into the fovereiVn couJcil • he enjoys a certain degree of refped and confide! ration munerilus nut em Academicis «t puhlicU Officiis Soru miftanter exciufus vixit taaien ec vivere dcliic «t Viruni Honeftum decn natus iVfcnfe Januario 1695. Qbiit Die VII Merfii im\[iyj^ H. M. a F ^^^ iTfSrr : tt:y ^° ^^^^ ^^'^-Pona„7/ who e^erciTe the mStrTdL"? '\ T^'^^-S treafurer, whofe nameTs St'U'"^ ''^'^ P""^^^"' he IS indeed a perfon nf !i -A- .' '* a baker- ^'nd merit ; andTas Len ^ •"^""^''' knowledge" 'he candidates for the offl""'%'PP'''"'*^J ond{ which if fortune had Lou'edt-^"^^ '^'■^"- been followed, on the next v. "' ^''"''^' '^^'ve ceiJion to the office of bur ' m a"'^' ^^ '^'^ '"C- , Jn general the bur XrcT '"^'• 'ent education : they t vsT' '''&' ^" ^^-cel- °«t unfrequentiv the Greek f^" '^' ^^^'"' ^^^ by no means unufual, even fo^ tf. ' '"'^ " « tradefman, to empbv the^r i r ^ °^^^ ^^'^ of ^ 1 he condua of .nao-m ! .^'"farch. ^-ely, nor more t ref cS T^""'^^ "^^re The people may fo.ne Le 'i'''"" ^' ^^fle. this privilege beyond £' pro' M" '^°"'^^' ^«^nd been one of tie m'of ';";^,^-- /orrnedy to have J^nJ : Its extent is caSe of ; T- ^'" ^"'"-er. hundred thoufand inhab tal ^"'"^ '^^'^'^ a f^^rcely „ambcr fourteen th?/ ^''''' " ^^n cular caufes .nay hair." ''"'"'^"''- Many parti Remarkable dec/eafe of n^^r'^ '° occafion tSs '7 only one or two reaS ! ' 'l"' ' "'" '"en affi,::ned. "^^ '^'^^'^n^ to which it may be - 3"^^'-- ' itSr tt s "'?'^-' ''^ac Vox.. 1. ' '"« number of burials ex- ceeds Jj, I ' il 146 LETTER t6. nncqual proportion « compcnfated by a conftant accefSon of new inhabitants, in proccfs of time fir^i F^^ v?"^" '""^ ncccffarily become dc- populated. Now the citizens of Bafle arc fo jealous of the burgherfhip, and pride themfelves fo much upon the privileges which accompany rt, that they feldom deign to confer it upon foreigners : a fupply therefore to balance that gradual wafte of people 1 have mentioned, caa never be derived from an influx of ftrangers, where they are not permitted to carry on com- merce, or to follow any trade. A few years ago, tome of the magiftrates, fenfible of the impolicy attending this unlimited prohibition, procured a law, by which the freedom of the town and the nght of burgherfhip was allowed to be conferred upon ftrangers ; but it was clogged at the fame time With fe many reftriaions, as by no means fo anfwer the purpofe for which it was intended. Every principle, indeed, of private intereft and ambition, concurred to prevent its efficacy - and no wonder ; for, bodies of men are feldom ac- tuated by fo generous a fpirit as to facrifice their perfonal and immediate advantages, to the future welfare anu profpcrity of their country. I am, &c; LETTER B^e. ny LETTER »7' Fores J^r ^^^'n t ^"""'^ ^^'^^^« '^' G ance at Bafle, to vifit the hofpital and burying. ground of St. James, not far from the to^^f and near the fmall river Birs, celebrated for a an? th?/°"?''' i-^'^^'^' ^"^^^^'^ the Swifs and the dauphin of France, afterwards Louis he Eleventh : and never was Swifs valour and n trepidity fo fignally difplayed, as by a few bat- tahons of their troops on that memorable day. lh,s famous battle was fought in confequence of fome difputes, which arofe between the canton of Zuric and thofe of Schweitz and Glarus. Zuric refufmg to abide by the mediation of the five neutral cantons, who had decided in favour et Schweitz and Glarus, a civil war cnfued ; ^ ^ ypon { />^ 148' LETTER 17. upon which occrifion, Zuric formed an alliance with the emperor Frederic the Ihird. The feven anticnt cantons, in order to obtain a renunciation of this alliance, which they juftly confidered as an infringement of their league, laid fiege to that town. Frederic, unable tor fend a fufficicnt body of troops to its rehefy applied for additional fuccours to Charles the Seventh, king of France ; who, as well with a view of diflblving the council of Bafle, as for the particular purpofe required, ordered a con- fiderable army to march, under the command of his fon Louis. Accordingly the dauphin entered with his forces into Alface ; and, after laying wafte and harrafiing the adjacent pro- vinces, appeared before Baflc. Upon this oc- cafion, a detachment of fifteen hundred Swif& from the army of the confederates (at that time employed in befieging Farnfpurg^ were ordered to throw thcmfclves nito the town of Bafle, which was but thinly garrifoned. This handful of men advanced without inter- ruption to the plain of Brattelen ; where they charged, wich fuch determined and well-con- dufted valour, eight thoufand of the enemy's ca- valry, that the latter were driven back as far as Muttenz ; at which place the repulfed were joined by another corps : but, notwithftanding this reinforcement, the Swifs renewing the aflault with frefli intrepidity, forced them to repafs the river Birs ; where the main body of the army was chiefly drawn up. Such was the firm- nefs and folidity of the Swifs in thefe feveral rencounters, that, to ufe the expreflion of an old French chronicle, when the cavalry charged « they Bajle. 149 ** they could make no more impreflion, than if ^* they had attacked a rock, or an impenetrable *' wall/' The Swifs, encouraged by this won- derful fuccefs, and exafperatcd with the mofl fpirited indignation againft the invaders of their country, dilregarded the remonftranccs of their officers, and ra(hly attempted to force their paf- fage over a bridge, which was guarded by a large Lody of the enemy : but this effort of inconfi- derate valour proving ineffedual, thefe gallant foldiers, throwing themfelves into the river, gained the oppofite fliore, in the face of a battery of cannon that was playing againft them. What could the defperate courage of fo fmatt a numbe;r avail, againlt an army of thirty thou- fand men advantagcoufly ported ju an open plain ? They had no alternative but either to ^hrow down their arms, or glorioufly expire. They bravely preferred the latter: accordingly five hundred took pofleflion of a fmall ifland near the bridge, and, after refolutcly defending them- felves to the 1^(1 extremity, were cut to pieces. A like number forced their way through the Tanks of the enemy, and were making towards Bafle ; when they were oppofed by a large body of horfe, ported there to prevent the inhabitants of the town from fa Hying to the relief of their countrymen. Being now furrounded on all fides," they threw themfelves in:o the hofpital of St. James ^ and, lining the walls of the burying, ground, refirted for fome time the united afl'aults of the whole French army. At length the hof- pital being fet on fire, and the cannon having battered down the walls of the burying-ground, f hey fought no longer in hopes of viSory ; but ' ' ftill ^s^ L E T t E R 17' JBq/!e. «5» ftill refoMng to fell their lives as dear as pof- fible, thej continued to defend themfelves to th6 laft gafp. *iEneas Sylvius (afterwards pope Pius II.) re- lates, among other anions of fingular valour, exerted by this heroic troop, a particular inftance tirhich I cannot forbear mentioning. Four French foldiers affaulted a fingle Swifs, and having killed and ft ripped him, proceeded to infult the corpfe : one of his companions, in- cenfed at this brutal aftion, feized a battle-ax, ruffled upon the four ; flew two of them, and drove the others to flight ; then flinging the dead body of his friend upon his flioulders, carried it to a place of fecurity ; and returning to the at- tack, fell by the hand of the enemy. Of the whole number but fixteen efcaped from the field of battle : and thefe, agreeably to the old Spartan difcipline, were branded with infamy, for not having facrificed their lives in defence of their country. Among thofe who were defpe- tately wounded, and left upon the field of aSion, only thirty-two were found alive. The names of many of thefe glorious combatants were carefully regiftered, and ftill remain upon record. It is not eafy to afcertain the number of forces on both fides in this ever-memorable engage- ment. As far as we can judge, by comparing the feveral relations of the French and German hiftorians, the army of the dauphin confifted of at leaft thirty thoufand. Charles and his fon Louis, in their letters to the German princes on this occafion, aflfert, that three thoufand Swifs fell on the field of battle j and perhaps that ac- count count is not much exaggerated. With refped to the flain on the fide of the dauphin, the amount is ftill more uncertain : his lofs, liow- ever, muft have been very confiderable, for he remained three days upon the field of battle ; and, the better to conceal the number of the killed, he ordered the dead bodies to be fecretly interred in diiferent parts of the neighbourhood. Add to this, that he was efFe£tually prevented' from profecuting his dcfigns upon Switzerland, and compelled to retire with his fhattered army into Alface. Louis himfelf, indeed, declared, that fuch another vidory w^ould ruin his army ; and generoufly confefled, that he derived from it no other advantage, than to know and eftcein the valour of the Swifs. Accordingly, this com- bat may be confidered as forming a remarkable sera in the hiftory of the Swifs : for, it gave rife to their treaty with Charles the Seventh, the firft alliance which they contrafted with France. Ihc w^ar, however, between the HouYc of Auftria and Zuric on one fide, and the fcven cantons on the other, continued until the year 1446, when a peace was concluded by the medi- ation and decifion of certain arbiters : Zuric re- nounced its connexion with the Houfe of Auftria ; and the Helvetic Confederacy was again folemnly renewed and confirmed between the eight can- tons. Upon this occafion, two very important articles in the public law of Switzerland, were finally fettled : Firft, that all difputes between any particular cantons, fliould be decided by the mediation of the neutral cantons 5 and if either of the two contending parties fliould decline- fo acquicfce under their judgment, the neu- tral _x 152 LETTER 17, tral cantons are empowertd to have recourfc to arms, in order to compel the rccufant to abide by their determination : hecondly, notwithftand- ing the right which either of the cantons might have rclerved to itfcif, of contracting alliances with foreign powers, yet the other confederates are to judge, whether fuch alliance is con- tradiCtory to, or incompatible with, the arti- cles of the general union ; and if it (houkl appear to be fo, it is declared utterly null and void. The Swifs flill talk of this famous adion with the warmcfl cnthufiafm. Accordingly, the inha- bitants of Bade form parties every year, to an inn fituated near the hofpital and burying-ground above-mentioned, in order to commemorate, in a red wine produced from fome vineyards planted on the field of battle, the heroic deeds of their brave countrymen, who fo glorioufly facriiiced their lives upon the ocrafion. This wine, which they call the '* Blood bf the Swifs;' is highly prized by the Eafileans, though it has little to re- coiumend it in point of flavour ; neverthdefs, I am much miftaken, if that famous line of Horace, Ncn m-Jfura cutem n'lfi pleiia cruoris^ was more applicable to the tea zing poet he men- tions, than it is to thoff jovial patriotic pnrties, at the aniverfary compotations of the " Blcod of the Swifs.*' Near Balle are the ruins of Jugifia Rat/rico- rum, formerly a large town under the dominion of the Romans, nov*^ a fniall village in the cr.nton of Bafle, clofe to the Rhine. Its ancient remains arc T " i I / \ I J fi Mulhaufen. ijj arc very inconfiderable, confiding of a few co- lumns of marble, ftill (landing, and fome fcat- tered fragments of pillar, together with a femi- circular range of walls upon a rifing ground, the greateft part of which has fallen, and is almoft entirely overgrown with underwood. From the prefent appearance of the laft-mentioned ruins, I fhould hardly have conjedured that they once compofed part of a theatre, capable of contain- ing above twelve thoufand fpedators. But the celebrated Shaefflin has given, in his ^Ifatia Illufirata^' 2i particular defcription of this thea- tre, and of the temple, to which the marble co- lumns formerly belonged. 1 noticed alfo the re- mains of fome fmall aquedu£ls, which conveyed water to the town from the diftance of above twelve miles : but none of thefe antient relics are fufBciently remarkable tp merit the trouble of a particular vifit. The peafants, in turning up the ground where thefe ruins are fituated, ^quently find medals of the Roman emperors, from Auguftus to Con- ftantine ; and are become, by repeated experi- ence, able to diftinguifh, with fome degree of precifion, thofe that are rare from the more com- mon coins. J purchafed of a labourer two me- dals, which he had jufl found ; a Trajan and an Albinus : and though the former was by far the moft perfed, yet he exaded three times as much for the latter, becaufe he had never feen it, he faid, before. From Bafle I made a fmall excurfion to Mul- haufen, a town in alliance with the Swifs can- ton; which, though fituated at the diftance of feveral miles from the frontiers of Switzerland, and V' f''JE' LETTER 17- and cniircly cnclofed within the dominions of France; is yet confidered and refpeaed as a part of the Helvetic Confederacy ; and entitled to al,l. the privileges enjoyed by that body. Mulhaufen (lands in Sundgaii, a diftrift of Al- face, about fiTteen miles from BaOe ; in a fertile plain, at the bottom of a ridge of hiHs, and at a fraall diftance from the Voges. The walls of the town enclofe a circumference of not more than two miles, and its whole territory is comprifcd within a precinft of eight miles. 1 his little republic maintained its privileges, which had been granted by the emperors^ during the times of feudal tyranny, by contrading an al- liance, at different intervals, with Bafle, Straf- burgh, and the towns of Alface and Suabia ; and afterwards, in the middle of the fifteenth centurv, with Berne, Friburgh, and Sokure. At length, in 1515, it was received into the Helvetic Con- federacy ; which league has preferved its liberty and independence fron^^the encroachments of the empire, on one hand, and, on the other, froni the attacks of France. The inhabitants are of the Reformed religion. The town contains about eight hundred houfes, and fix thoufand fouls, and there are two thoufand fubjeds in the vil- lages within its little territory- Mulhaufen owes its prefent flourifliing ftate, to its manufadures, which confia principally of printed hnens aad cottons. . The government is arifto-democratical. 1 nc fupremc power refides in the Great and Little Councils, confiding both together of feventy- eight perfons, and drawn from the burghers, whofe number amounts to feven hundred, diltri' buted into fix tribes. ^^ - Mr. 4 Mulhaufen. HS Mr. Koehlin's commercial fchool defetves to be mentioned. It is a private inftitution for about thirty fcholars, who are inftrufted in the German, French, and Latin languages ; in fenc- ing, dancing, and all polite accomplifhments j and more particularly in accounts and book-keep- ing. The expence, including an uniform, amounts to ^f . 50 per annum. The plan is very judicious, and the whole appeared to mc to be well conduced. LETTER ^^ ts^ LETTER 18. Bijhopric of Bajle. ^57 LETTER 18. Bijhopric of Bq/le— For entru— Abbey of Bellelaj —Arlejheim—Delmont— Valley of Munjier— Pierre Pertuis— Valley of St. Imier. A _ _LTHOUGH the greateft part of the domi- nions fubjeft to the bij^op of Baflc, or, as he is called by the Proteftants, the Prince of Porentru, is not comprifed within the limits of Switzerland ; yet as, till lately, he was in alliance with the Catholic cantons, and as many of his fubjeds, even in thofe diftri^ls which lie within the Ger- man empire, are comburghers with Berne, and under the protcftion of that republic, his terri- tory is ufually included in all the topographical accounts of Switzerland. It merits alio the notice of the traveller for its romantic Icenes, of the mineralogill for the variety of its petri- fadions and foffils, and of the politician for the peculiarity of its government, and the numerous SiVid complicated immunities of the people. Havmg t • - Having made various excurfions into this coun- try, I ftiall lay before you a general account ©f its political ftate, and a particular defcriptiort of thofe parts which I had an opportunity of vifiting. The bifliopric of Bafle may be claffed under two general divifions : the firft lies to the fouth of Pierre Pertuis, and forms a part of Switzer- land ; the fecond, to the north of the fame boun- dary, includes that diftrift fituated within the German empire. The fovereign of this country is chofen by the chaper of eighteen canons, refident at Arlef- heim, and confirmed by the pope. He is prince of the German empire ; and does homage to the emperor for that part of his territory which lies in the Circle of the Upper Rhine. He was al- ways confidered as an ally of the Swifs, by his union with the Catholic cantons, firfl formed in. 1579, and renewed at different intervals, parti- cularly in 1671 and i^^qj ; and by being in- cluded in the treaty which thofe cantons con- traded with France in 1715. But as he was not comprifed among the allies of the Swifs, in the league between the thirteen cantons and Louis the Sixteenth, in 1777, he can at prefent fcarcely be efteemed a member of the Helvetic Confe- deracy. The firft particular alliance with France was concluded in 1739, between thebifhop and Louis the Fifteenth ; and was renewed in 1780. By virtue of this treaty the bifhop has troops in the French fervice ; and his fubjefts enjoy all the privileges which are granted to the natives of the thirteen cantons* In ~\' r 'J8 LETTER ,8. In cafe of a rupture between France and the Empire, he is bound to remain neuter.. But this neutrality did not, in 167 s, prevent the French troops from being quartered in bis dominions, as forming part of the empire ; and they were only removed at the interceffion of the Catholic can- tons. If a mifunderftanding fhould arife between France and the Emperor, his fituation would be extremely embarrafling ; as his doubtful connec- tion with the Swifs would fcarcely preferve his territory from being invaded by one of thofe two powers. Theform of government is a limited monarchy : the bifliop being bound, on all important oc <:afions, to confult his chapter ; and his prero- gative being confined by the great immunities -enjoyed by his fubjeds in general, and particu- •iarly by thofe of the Reformed communion. He nommates to all employments, both civil and military, and appoints the bailifs or governors ; criminal juftice is adminiftcred in his i^me ; and he has the power of pardoning. In civil pro- ceedings, be receives an appeal from the infe- rior courts ; but in his German dominions, when -the caufe exceeds the value of a ftipulated fum. It may be carried to the chambers of Wetzlar or Vienna. The fubjeds of the bifhop arc partly Protef- tants and partly Catholics. The proteftants, of whom a more particular account will be given, inhabit the greatcft part of the valley of Munfter, and the whole diftricl to the fouth of Pierre Per- tuis, and are about 1 5,000 3 the Catholics amount to 35,000. The Poreniru and B&Jlelay. i ^.9 The French and German languages being both fpoken in the bifhop's dominions, feve- ral places have two names, that fcarcely re- femble each other ; numely, Munfter and Moi- tier, Dachfield and Tavannes, Delmont and Delf* berg, Corrandelin and Rennendorf, Elay and Seehof. Porentru, capital of the bifhop's dominions, and his principal refidence, is fituated in the bailliage of Elfgau, about three miles from the frontiers of France, his a fmall but neat town'; and its pofition, in an oval plain, furrounded by well-wooded hills, and watered by a ferpentine rivulet, is exceedingly pleafant. The epifcopal palace, which has been lately repaired and aug- mented, ftands on an eminence overlooking the • town, and the environs fertile in corn and paf- ture. One of the towers, buih of ftone, and faid to be of Roman workinanlhip, ftill remains a monument of its antiquity. The high roads, which lead from all quarters to Porentru, and have been formed at a con- fiderable expence, do honour to the fovereigns of this country. The way to Belklay and Bienne, is a magnificent caufeway : it traverfes a mountainous diftrid ; is carried over hanging terraces; through " twilight groves," and along continued acclivities and declivities. I purfued the latter part by moonlight ; and the refledion of the rays quivering through the thick foliage was inconceivably beautiful. Bellelay, which I vifited in my journey from Bienne to Porentru, is a rich abbey of Benedic- tines, about twenty miles from the capital, in a folitary but not unplcafant fituation, furrounded by i i 3a "A ]6o LETTER i?. by mountains, and fliekered by forefts. This abbey is not merely confmed to. religious pur* pofes ; the late abbot, Nicholas de Luce, having inftituted a military academy, for the young no- bility and gentry. For this purpofe he erefted a large building near the abbey, and provided fuitable mafters and profeffors. When I was there, the number of fcholars amounted to forty. They are inftrucled in various branches of polite literature ; they wear uniforms ; and are trained to Liilitary manoeuvres and cxercifcs. The cheap- ncfs of this fchool, and its diftance from the dif- fipation of large towns, renders it of great public utility. The whole expence of each fcholar, for his board, lodging, inftrudion, and various lef- fons, fcarcely exceeds £^, 20 per annum. It is curious to find a military academy eftabliftied in the midft of rocks and forefts, and within the walls of a convent ; and to obferve Benedidine friars, inftead of wafting their time in monkifh ignorance and fuperftition, rendering themfelves beneficial to fociety. The chapter, compofed of eighteen canons, who, upon a vacancy in the fee, pofTefs the right of electing the bi(hop, was fixed at Friburgh in Brifgau from the period of the reformation, which drove them from Bafle, to 1677, when Friburgh was occupied by the French troops. In the fol- lowing year the chapter was transferred to Arlef- heim, where it now refides. The vacant ca- nonries are filled alternately by the pope and chapter. On the 14th of Auguft 1786, I made an ex- curfion, in company with feveral friends, to Arlcflicim^ which is a fmall but agreeably fituated place, Arlcjhehn, ,5^ place, almoft four miles from Bafle. We had the honour oi dining with the Baron de Lirertz one of the caijons After a repaft, no ,efs del gant than agreeable, our hofl politely accoai- panied us to a garden ft vied The Hcrmira.Te, about J quarter of a mile from Arlen.ci n ; whkh was laid out at the joint expence of the baron and ot Madame d'Andlau, the bailif's !ady, vith a view to employ the poor in a time of ^rreat f arci- ty, and to provide walks for the inhabitants of the town. The grounds are very .xtc-uHve and' plealant. The walks are carried alon;^ tne fides oi the rocks, which are richly woo.'ed, and through 4_^delightful femiclrcular plain. ..oundcd by fertile hills, and watered by a fmali lake, the ■ borders of which are peculiarly wil.l and piaur- , efque. Several caverns, hollowed and arched by the hand of nature, add to the romantic fingulanty of the fcenery ; while many tran- fparent areains, conveyed from a confiderable diltance, fall in fmall cafcades, or bubble from the ground like real fprings. A taftidious ob- ierver might perhaps remark of this enchanting Ipot, that in a few circumdances nature has been too much facrificed to art ; and that there are fonie buildings lefs calculated to pleafe than to lurpnfe. The following elegant infcription for this charming hermitage was extemporarily compofed by protcflbr Oberlin of Strafburgh, one of our party. ° Vol, I. M HOSPES l62 LETTER iS, HOSPES - AMICE, HASCE . DELICIAS. ' ,.< NATURE - DEBES. DEBES - INDUSTRIE. BALBIN^ - AB - ANDLAV. HENRICl-A-DIGERTZ. i fliall clofe this letter with an account of my journey from Bafle to Bieime, through the vallies *of Lautlen, Ddmont, Munfter, and St. Imier, a trad of country in the bifhopric of Bafle, which is not inferior in beauty tp th^ mod delightful parts of Switzerland. We quitted Bafle early in the morning ; and pafled through a fertile, plain watered by the Birfli, and bounded by two chains of the Jura ; one whereof terminates abruptly, fupporting oa its fummit the cafl:le of Wertenburgh. As we continued our route, the plain gradually nar- rowed ; the mountains approached each other ; and we entered the rich valley of Lauffen, en- clofed between the rocks, fprinkled with groves of oak and beech, and exhibiting many romantic points of view. Lauffen, which gives name to • the valley, has its own magiftrates, and infe- rior courts of juftice. The natives are induf- • trious : thofe who are not employed in agricul- ture, gain a comfortable livelihood from making cloth, fpiniiing yarn, and knitting worlted (lock- ings; The inhabitants of the valley talk Ger- man, and thofe of Sautier, a fmall neighbour- ing village, French, which language is fpoken through the vallies of D^ilmont, Munfter, and St. Iniier. About Dehnont, 163 ' About three leagues from Lauffen we came to ^ a narrow pa&, entered the valjey of Dehnont, near Sautier ; quitted the high road, and gently afcended.to Delmont, which ftands pleafantly on an acclivity, backed by a ridge of rocks em- browned with firs. , In this fmall town refide the provoft an^ ca- nons, who compofc the chapter for.ntrly'cfta- blifhed at Munfter ; which was removetl here, in 1630, on the inlrodudion of the Reformed reli- gioh in the valley of Munfter. At the extre- mity of the town isahe epifcopal palace, built in I7»^» by Conrad Baron of Reinach, and bifhop of Bafle; it commands a line view of the adjacent ' country. The bailif, who holds his court m this town, has jurifdiftion over the valleys of Del- mont and Munfter. In crimmal proceedings he arre'fts and examines ; and can inflid fmall pe- nalties for trifling mifdemeanors ; but in a. I cafes of notoriety, the deli iquent is either tried at Po- rentr'u, or the bailjPs fenteace muft be con- firmed or amended in that fupreme tribunal. Civil caufes are firft adjudged in the provincial courts ; from whofe decifion an appeal lies to the epifcopal tribunal at Porentru ; and from thence to the imperial chambers of Wetz'ar or Vienna. Delmont contains eight hundred inhabitants, who.are all Catholics: they have their ovvn ma- giftrates and inferior tribunals. About a mile from Deimont I ftopped at Cor- randelin, a fmall village in the Catholic diftrid of the valley of Munfter, in order to examine an iron^ foundery belonging to the bifliop. The ore is drawn from the vallev of Delmont, near M 2 ' the $ ' 16 A LETTER i8- the villages of Corou, Wick, Recolens, and Se- pres ; it is taken from the ground in fmall pkces, feldoni larger than the fize of a pea. Th^ di- retlor informed me, that it is ufually found in that ftate, and very rarely in mafles. ' The kirueil he ever remembered to have fcen, was ten feet long, two thick, and two broad. He added, that the mountains in the neighbourhood abound vjith ore, which would yield confiderabie quantities of iron, if fufHcient cliarcoal could be procured for the fmelting furnaces. As he was but lately appointed diredor, he could not i'^ive any accurate intelligence concerning the an- ^^ nual quantity of iron fmelted in this foundery j but informed me, in general, that the diflerent^ ores yielded altogether two thirds of pure mine- ral, the quality whereof was extremely fine, and . Icarcely inferior to the bed fort exported from Sweden. Corrandelin, together with the villages of Chatillon, Roffemaifon, Vellerat, Coiirchappois, Corbaon, Mervellier, and Elay, though con- nected as to ecclefiaflical affairs with the valley of Delniont, form that part of the valley of Mun- fter, which is called the Catholic^ or Lower Diltritl. It is denominated the Catholic Diftridl, becaufe the inhabitants are exclufively of the Ro- niifli church ; and Lower Diftrifl:, becaufe it is Iltuated unter den felfen, or below the ridge of rocks which feparate it from the Upper^ or Pro-^ tejiant Diftrii^. But before I proceed further, it will be neceflary to defcribe the general divifions of this valley, and the civil and religious immu- nities of the natives, that you may be enabled to comprehend its complicated topography, and its curious Valley of Munjer. 16- ♦ « *♦-. ■ f "?if "k-^"'"'*'^.' f'^^ ^y ^^'^^^ though fubiea . to the bilhop o{ Balle, it h uadcr the proteSon of the canton of Berne. . ^ "tcccion The valley of Munfter, or Moitier, e^fends ■ .nmions wh.ch J,e within the Gern^au empi^ IJut as the inhabitants have, for above three hundred years, been in alliance with Berne and under the proteftion of that republic the Jl^v is con/.dered by many authors fs fo min^ par oY Switzerland It is divided into two E p^i les at the extremity of the valley of Delnon and comprifes the eight villages abovtmen tioned ; the Protejiant or UpfcrI)mT&,^^^^ Iin, to Pierre Pertu.s, its fouthern boundary • and containing, ,. The Greater Valley, or VaVev of • ravannes; and 2. The Leifer Valley, whiclis fubdiyided mta Grand-Val, or the Great Va The inhabitants of both diftrifls are com burghers with the canton of Berne. l',e fi" Jpedhyely fupportmg two candidates for th- pro voaihip of Munfler ; the former m. xh^d an .army mto thefe parts, took poffeffion of the TlTlL. f^c^'^'^^'T' ''"'"« compromifccj yllcy to the bilhop on the following conditions • tb4t the inhabitants ihould be maintained S all their i66 LETTER 1 8. their privileges ; continue as comburghers with Bcrnc, under the ^^roteclion of that repubhc ; re- main neuter in cafe of a war between Berne and the bifhop ; and follow the ftandaal-of Berne, when the latter was engaged in hoftilities againft ^ny olher power. This treaty of comburgherfhjp, rene\\ed at difttrent intervals, has excited fre- quent dilputcs between Berne and the bifiiop, and particularly in 1705 and 1711 occafioned an open rupture. Thefe dilputcs were finally adjufted at the pacification of Arau ; when the bilhop ratified the treaty of comburgherfliip, confirmed all the rights and immunities of the inhabitants, and conlented to the mediation and interference of Bcrpe, * 1 he affairs of religion excited for fome time no lefs conteft between the bilhop and Berne than the treaty of comburgherflnp. The refor- mation being adopted, in 1531, by a confiderable number of the inhabitants in the valley of M un- der, civil commotions enfued ; Berne, interfered in behalf of the Proteltants, and the bifliop pro-* tccled the antient church eftabliniment. It was at length, however, amicably fettled between both parties ; that the majority of each parifli fhould freely decide, whether the inhabitants fhould pro- fefs the Roman catholic or the Reformed religion; and that the chapter of iMunfter fliould continue to receive the tythes, on condition of difcharging the fabrics of the Protedant miriifters. In con- fequence of this rational compromife, ihe ei^ht villages, which now form the Lower diftrift, voted for the maintenance of the Catholic religion ; and the pariflies of the upper diftrid for the Reform- cd church. Accordingly the two perfuafions • were / ■ Valley of Munjler. 167 were refpeflively eftablifhed in thefe two dif- trids ; the chapter retained its eftates and tythes, but quitting Munfter, where the new dodrines were admitted, retired firll to Soleufe, and af* terwards fettled at Delmont : but, as feveral Pro- teftants and Catholics continued promifcuoufly to inhabit the two diftrids, difturbances were occa- fionally renewed, l^ox were the religious differ- ences entirely compofed till the peace of Arau j which fettled, that all the memt^ers of the two perfuafiQns Ihould be finally feparated ; that all the inhabitants, of the Upper diftrid, who then profeffed or fhould hereafter profefs the Catholic religion, fhould retire to Elay ; and that in the ftme manner the Proteflarits in the Lower diftrid' ^fhould remove to the Upper diftrid. Hincc this period, the moft perfed harmony has fublifled between them. -, By virtue of the alliance with Berne, that re- public annually deputes one of its magiflrates to this valley for the purpofe of inquiring if the •'civil and religious immunities have been prefer- ved inviolate, and an ecclefiaftic : the latter, called infpedor of the churches in the valley of IVlunfter, examines into the ftate of ecclefiaftical difcipline ; and diftributes among the inhabitants ' of the Upper^ diftrid catechiims and pfalters. • Berne aUo approves the nomination of the mini- . Iters to the vacant benefices, fome of whom are appointed and paid by* the bifhop, others by the chapters of Delmont and Bellelay \ as the bifhop or chapters pofTels the tythes in the refpedive parifhes. r But to return from this digreflion. — Soon after quitting Corrandelin, I entered the Protejlant diftrict, i68 LETTER iS. diftricl, through a pafs between two roclcs, which nearly approach each other, and juft leave an opening iufficient for the Bus and the road. This pafs leads into a narrow glen, about four miles in length, and in many places almoft refembling a fubterrancous abyfs. 1 he road winds by the lidc of the impetuous Birs, and at the bottom of two ranges of rocks : thtfti rocks 'are of white limeftoiie, of inacctHibk height ; and though in moll places ab/olutciy perpendicular, yet arc agreeably feathered with trees, and particularly towards their fummits, which over hang, and fcarcely admit the light of the fun. In the midft of this glen is La Roche, the firft Proteftant vil- lage in the valley of iVrunfler ;. the houfts where- of (land on both fides of the Birs, where the rocks recede a little, and prcfent towards their bottoms a gentle floj^:. . »• ' > On iiluing from this glen, we entered a fertile plain encircl«;d by hilh, in the nlidfl of which i§ lituated the village of M under or Moitier : it takes that appellation from the chapter of -ca- nons, who, upon the reformation,, quitted this place of their refidence and fettled themfelves at Delmont. About half a mile from Munfter we came into another glen, near three miles in length : it is * called Cba/uel, cf a fimilar nature with that which • we traverfed between Corrandelin and the plain of Munller, but IHil wilder and more craggy, deeper and more obfcure. It is alfo divided by the Birs, which rulhes through it with great im^ pctuofity ; and is fo narrow, that ttie road occu- pies the whole ipacc between the torrent and the mountain, and the wheels of our carriage fre- quently Val/ey of Munjler.. 159. quentlyon one fide bruflied the. rock, and on the other ran clofe to the precipice which overhangs the river. This caufeway, over broken crags and ^ fteep precipices, does- honour to the pfmce who carried it fnto execution. The following in- fcription, which 1 obferved near a bridge in the nwdft of this obfcure glen, may perhaps feein exaggerated, to a perfon unacquainted with the natural impedhnents of the country ; but to me, on the fpot, appeared flriaiy confonam to , truth. Jofephus Gulielmus En Rinchnis de. Baldenjletn Rafihenfium Efifcopus Princeps Viam Veteribus Inclufam Rupihus et Claujiris Montium Ruptis Birfd Poniibus ' Strata Opere Romanis Digno Aperuit* Anno. D' M.D.CCUL ■ . Although in various parts of Switzerland I had frequently obferved the juftnefs of the remark, that mall deep vallies which interfeft the moun- tains, the falient angles on one fide alternate- . ly correfpond with the cavities on the other; and tha^t parallel ftrata of rock anfwer to each other, in all direftions and at all heights ; yet I ' never faw this faft more ftrongly exemplified than in the two ridges of lime-ftone that border this glen. They are of a ftupendous height ; and the Itrata horizontal, inclined, or almoft per- , pendicular on one fide, are exaftly fimilar and of the fame thicknefs on the other : a cir<:uraftance, which :: t -'» lyo L E T T E R i8. Pierre PeriuiSn ^71 which, joined to the correfponding fituation of the angles, feems to prove, that they were former^ .ly united, and have been either rent afunder by feme fudden conviilfion, or feparated by the gra- . dual attrition of the waters. At the extremity of the Chaluet we entered another plain, well cultivated, and agreeably fpotted with villages ; and arrived towards the dole of the evening at Molleray, where we paf- fed the niglit. The people in thefe parts appear happy and contented, and are extremely induflri- ous. - The greatefl part are em{)loyed in agri- culture ; a few, encouraged by their neighbours of Locle and Chauxde Fond, have lately intro- duced feveral trades into thefe mountains ; and JBelleval, a fmall neighbouring village, already (fontains five watchmakers. From J^oUeray we continued along a fertile- plain by " the fide of the Birs ; through ft^veral pkafant and well-looking villages, of which Ta- vannes, in German Dacbfeld^ is the largeft. In about two miles we arrived at the extremity of the plain, which is clofed by a rock^ through which opens the celebrated pafs called Pierre Pertids, At the bottom of this rock, the Birs burfts from the ground* in feveral copious fprings, and turns two mills within a few paces of its principal fource. Pierre Periuis is a large arched aperture through a folid rock, about thirty feet long, forty-five broad, and thirty high in the lowed part, which fome aver to have been forme'd by nature, others by art. A Roman infcription over the arch, extremely defaced, has given fuf- ficient employment to the ingenuity ot antiqua- ries. ries. Having feen feveral fac-fimiles, greatly differing from each other, I copied it as exaSly . as the height would permit. AVMINI AVGS CTA PER 1 OV VM PATER. IVI COL. HELV. ' * Of this infcription many folutions have been attempted.; but the moft probable are the two following ; Numini Auguftoriim viafad:a per Titum dunnium Paiernuni n virwn Colon Helvet, — ^Others read, per mo?2i€?n dur'uum Paternus*. * Both thefe folutions imply, that a road was formed through the mountain by Paternus, a du- umvir, during the reigns of Marcus Aurclius and Verus. From the latter explanation, per montem durvum^ fome antiquarians have endeavoured to prove, that he cut through the' rock ; and con- iequently, that the arch is the work of art, not of nature : while others maintain, that it by no. means follow^, even from this reading, that the rock was pierced by order of Paternus ; but merely that the road was carried through the rock*. Not to detain you, however, with fan- ciful conjedures, I fhall only add, that on ex- • The reader, who wifhes to examine this fubje£l with at* tenti'on, is referred to Schasfflin's Aljatia llluflrata, and to. a dtiflfertation on die fubjeQ publiflied by Buxtorf. amining 172 L E *T T E R 18. amining the infcriptlon with attention, the words . which antiquarians have fupplicd, to fupport their particular fyftems, are extremely doubtful ; and that to me, who obferved the arch without par- tiality or prejudice in favour of any hypothefis^ it appeared to have been originally a great ca- vern, either totally formed by nature, or if af- fiflcd by art, that only a fmall part of its fouthern extremity was Opened by the labour of men. The fouthern extremity of Pierre Pertuis leads into the valley of St. Imier, fometimes called Enguel, which comprifes the bi(hop*s dominions lying in Switzerland. The inhabitants are Pro- teftants, ahd are governed by a bailif appointed by thebifliop. He refides at Courtelari; but his ai^ thority is ^exceedingly limited by the various pri- vileges, both civil and religious, poffcffed by the natives. Their religious immunities, confirmed by the bifliop, are guarantied by the four ^ Re- formed cantons. The whole diftrift lies within the Jura mountains; and is fertile in pafture. The inhabitants are induftrious. On arriving on the extremity of mount Jura, wh^re it overlooks a wide extenfive country, a glorious profpect burfts upon the view, com- manding the undulating country fertilised by the Aar, backed by the majeftic chain of Alps ex- tending beyond the frontiers of Savoy. De- fcending gently into the plain with this glorious profpeft before us, and which was heightened by the luminous fplendor of the mid-day fun, wq crofTed the Sure, and fmiflied our delightful ex- pedition at Bienne. From Pierre Pertuis to Bienne, a fuperb caufc- way is carried alono; a continual defcent for about Valley of St. Imier. 173 fix miles ; it winds through thick foreft«, and. overhangs the deep abyfs, in which the Sare, a turbid ahd impetuous ' torrent, precipitates its courfe, always roaring, , and frequently unfeen, in its rocky channel. ' ' . ♦ s I k ^ : LETTER m i IIIR >l 174 LETTER 19. LE TT E R 19. The Town . of Bicnne, X HE fmaR territory of Bicnne, containing fcarccly fix thoufand inhabitants, lies between ••.'*»' »ihe lake and a chain of the Jura mountains : it is furroundcd hy the caAtons of Berne and So- leurc, the biftiopric of Bafle, and th? principality- "*- pf NeuchateL The town is fituated at the foot of " the Jura, and at a little diflance from the lake; , • which is here about nine miles in lefy^tli, arid ' four in breadth : the borders are pleafing and picturcfque ; and the town of Nidau forms a very beautiful object upon its eaftcrn fide. * > The bifliop of Bafle is the fovcrf ign of this lit*tleftate: his power, formerly confidcrablc, is at prefent exceedingly limited. Indeed the con- ititution of Bienne is of fo very pcciiliar a nature, that 1 know not well by what name it can be diftinguiftied : it cannot properly be called cither a limited monarchy, or an ii\dcpendcnt republic ; it feems rather to be a mixed government, par- taking fomewhat of both. ^Thc Bienrfe* ns The bifliop ojF Bafle receives, upon his pro- motion to the bifliopric, the homage of th^ citi- zens and militia of this town, with all the appa- rent ceremonials of the inoft abfoiute fubmiflion ; but at the fame time, he confirms, in the firongl eft manner, all their privileges and, frati'chifes. He is rcprefented by a mayor pf his own appoint- ing, w^hofe power and office confift in convoking, and prefiding in, the Little Council, as the chief court of jullice; in colleding the fuffrages;-' and declaring the fentence ; but without giv- ing any vote himfelf. And, although juftice 13 carried on, and executed, in the name of the bifnop, yet neither that prince nor the niayor, has the prerogative of pardoning criminals, or of mitigating the fentence. AH caufcs, civil as well as criminal, are brought before this councH in' the firft^ inftance ; and in more .imporunt pro*. ceedings, an appeal lies to* the Sovereign Coun-* cil: in both cafes, each party choofci a member of the council to act as hij; adrocatc ; which office he is obliged to dikiiarge without fee or rc- tompence. The fovercign^s rcrcnue amounuonlvtaabout £. 300 a year : but; mean as his civil fiftis, itig itill more confidcrable than his power ; for he docs not pofll-fs the leaft fliare of ihc.adminidi^. tion. The legiflative uutliority rcfidti 'in the Great and Little CounciU combined : the former confirts of forty mcmberij and the latter, in which the executive power J$ veflcd^ is compofcd of twcniy-foiir j the members of each mail be married men. Both ifiefc councils cicd their re- fpcdivc members ; and fo far tlic conftitution is entirely adilocraticaL The burgomaftcr is chief of .■•€.■ 4' \ 'I' i lyS LETTER 19. Bienne* t of the regency ; is chofen by the two councils ; and prelides at their meetings. He continues in- office during life; in which, however, he, as well as the fcvqral magiilrates, mull be confirmed annually by the two councils. The falaries an- nexed to thefe pods are exceedingly moderate : and,, indeed, the general expences of govern- ment are fo very fmall, that, in proportion to them, its revenues may well be confidered as abundantly ample. It appears, therefore/ that this Proteftant re- public, notwithllanding the fovereignty of its Ca- tholic biftiop, enjoys in the fulled extent the power of impofing taxes, contrafting alliances, declaring war and peace ; and in ihort, of exer- cifing every other aft of abJblute and independent legiflation. 1 his fingular conftitution is gua- rantied by Berne, Friburgh, and Soleure, with vhom the town is clofcly allied ; in confequence of which, it becomes a member of the Helvetic Confederacy. And, what is fomewhat remark- abFe, this alliance between thofe cantons and the rown of Bienne, is of a fuperior nature to that of the fame cantons with the biftiop of Bafle : for the town enjoys the right of fending deputies ta every general diet, ordinary and extraordinary ; whereas the bifhop does not poffefs the fame pri- vilege. ^The language of the country is a kind of provincial German ; but, as the territory borders upon the principality of Neuchatel, the inhabi- tants fpeak alfo a kind of corrupted French. They are a very adtive and induftrious people : feveral manufaaures are eilablifhed in the town, which, confidering its fize, carries on a tolerable trade. I have 177 I have often had occafion to obferve, that the common people of Switzerland are far more in- telligent than the fame rank of men in any or.her country. Accordingly, 1 inviied laft night my landlord of the Crown inn to fup with me ; and found him by no means difpofed to be a lilent gueft. He gave me a long account of the late ceremony, when the citizens did homage to their new bifhop. I was pleafed to hear him e>wpatiate, with all the enthufiafm of national pride, upon the beauty and grandeur of the fcene ; the mag- nificence of the proccflion ; the number of fpec- tators, as well Grangers as natives, who were af- fembled ; together with the entertainments and balls that were given upon that occafion. By the lofty terms in which he fpoke of this pro- ceffion, you would have imagined, at ieaft, that he had been defcribing the coronation of the em- peror of Germany, or the king of France : and, in truth, to an inhabitant of Bienne, whofe go- vernment is adminidered without the lead degree of external pomp, and where luxury has as' yet made but little progrefs, the ceremony mud have appeared a very ftriking fpedacle. My hod's narrative recalled to my remembrance the ac- counts of thofe ancient feudal fovereignties, when the great vaflals of the crown did homage to their liege lord ; and, while interms they promifed him unlimited obedience, maintained, in facf^ every eflential of their independence. 1 have jud been amufing myfelf in fome plea- fant walks, that lie by the fide of the lake, which is here prettily (kirted with country houfes. In my way I palfed over a plain between the town and the lake, which the Sovereign Council, by a Vol. I. N kind H 178 LETTER 19. Sokure* kind of agrarian law that does honour to the Ic- giftaturc, lately allotted, in diftinft portions, to each burgher, for his own particular ufe : it i& entirely laid out in little kitchen-gardens. The general government, indeed, of this miniature ftate, is welladminiftered. It has lately adopted the liberal policy of conferring the burgherlhip at an eafy rate : a wife regulation, which cannot fail of increafing the population of the town, and extending its commerce. I know your fentiments much too well, my dear fir, to apologize for calling your attention in the prcfent inftancc, as in fome others, to thefe diminutive commonwealths. The various mo- difications of government, into which civil fociety is divided, is a fpeculation that will always af- ford matter both of entertainment and reflcdion^ to aphilofophic mind : and I am perfuaded, that you confider the meaneft fpot of this globe confecrated by liberty, to be an objeft worthy,, not only of your curiofity, but your veneration. I am, Sec. LETTER 179 LETTER 20. The Town and Canton cf Soleure— Detail of the Government — /Jntient and New Burghers ^ Afembly of the Rofengarten. T 1 H E dirca road from Bafle to Soleure lies tnrough the midft of the Jura mountains, alonff the romantic vale of Balftal, remarkable for iu richnefs and fertility : and though the country is in general exceedingly rocky, yet in many places It is highly cultivated. The road from Bienne to Soleure traverfes a welUcultivatcd valley, watcred.by the Aar, at the toot of a piked ridge, which forms a branch of mount Jura ; its fides, from the bottom to the lummit, are fo embrowned with overhanging torefts of pine and fir, as to exhibit only occa- lional intervals of naked rock, remains of tor- rents, and a few folitary fpccks of pafture, and are fo Aeep as, within the extent of five leagues, Icarccly to exhibit the appearance of a lingle N 2 houfc. i8b LETTER 20. Sokure. 181 houfe, or a^ trace of the ilighteft foot-way. Near Soleure this chain of the Jura, called Weiffenftein, abruptly dioiiniflies in height, becomes gradually floping, and is checkered to its very fuminit with fields of corn and pafture. Soleure is pleafantly fituated upon the i\ar, which here- expands its banks and opens into a fine and broad river. I will not exert the privi- lege of a traveller, and tell you, what fome ex- travagant antiquarians do not fcruple to affert, that Soleure was built by the patriarch Abraham ^ but you will have no difficulty, perhaps, in be- Kevino- what others maintain, that it was one of the twelve towns which were deftroyed upon the emigration of the original inhabitants into Gaul. But at what time, and upon what occafioa its deftruftion happened ; it appears probable, from a great number of infcriptions, medals, and ether antiquities, which have been found in the neighbourhood, that it was re-peopled by a Ro- man colony ; and it certainly was a Roman for- tification, as its antient appellation, Cajirum Salo- durenfe, neccffarily implies. Little more of its hiftory is known, during \h?X period of ignorance and barbarifm which fucceed- ed the downfal of the Roman empire, than that it was facked and deilroyed by thofe northern na- tions, who over-ran the gTeateft part of Europe. From the time of its re-eftablilhment, until its admiffion into the Helvetic Confederacy in 148 1, its ftate was fimilar to that of many other imperial towns, which acquired a gradual ac- ceffion of territory, and after various ftru^gles fiaally finally fecured to themfelves an abfolute inde- pendence. Soleure is a fmall but extremely neat town, and is furrounded by regular ftone fortifications, ere^ied in the beginning of the prefent century ; thefe walls inclofe a circumference of fcarcely more than fifty fquare acres, and, including the fuburbs, contain about four thoufand fouls. Among the moft remarkable objeds of curiofity in the town is the new church of St. Urs, which was be^un in 1762, and finiflied in 1772. It is a noble edifice, of whitifli-grey flone, drawn from the neighbouring quarries, which admits a po- lifli, and is a fpecies of rude marble. The lower part.of the building is of the Corinthian, the up- per of the Compofite order : the facade, which confifts of a portico, furmounted by an elegant tower, prefents itfelf finely at the extremity of the principal ftreet. Pizoni was the architect, and the expence amounted to at lead ^.80,000 ; a confiderable fum for fo fmall a republic, whofe revenues fcarcely ' furpafs X- 12000 per annum. rhe interior is fimple yet elegant, and decorated with a few modern paintings of inconfiderable merit ; of which the moft efteemed is the laft fupper, by Corvi, a Roman artift. A pifture by Rubens and his fcholars, in the church of the Cordeliers, and one by Le Sueur, in that of the Capuchins, deierve perhaps to be noticed by the traveller, who is fond of the fine arts. The town- houfe is not in itfelf worthy of obfervation, but IS mentioned only as being the place of meeting for the Great Council and Senate. The public prifon, newly conftrufted, is a folid edifice of ftone, and is well adapted to the pur- pofc ^ n 182 LETTER 20. 'Soleure. i«3 'jj III pofe of the building ; the prifoners being con- fined in feparate cells. Although the penal laws are feverc in theory, yet the judicial fentences, m criminal affairs, are fo remarkably mild, that a prifoner, on his acquittal, wrote the following in- fcription on the wall of his cell : " He who is " inclined to rob, and efcape hanging, let him *^ rob in the canton of Soleure." The public library defervcs to be mentioned, not for the number or rarity of the volumes, but for the literary zeal of the Abbe Herman, canon of the cathedral, to whom It owes its origin. On my firft vifit to this town, in 1776, there was no public colkaion of books ; but a fe>^ years ago that ingenious ecclefiaftic amafTcd about four hun- dred volumes from his own and his friends ftock, obtained from government an apartment in the town-houfe, where he depofited them, and rc- quefted to be appointed librarian, but without a falary. His petition being granted, he continued to augment his little colleftion ; and from this fmall beginning has increafed it already to eleven thoufand books, among which are above a hun- dred and fifty printed in the fifteenth century. At the two extremities of the room are infcribed the names of the benefaaors to this library. As yet there is no fund eftablilhed for the fupport or augmentation of this coUeftion. The Abbe has alfo begun to form a cabinet of medals ; which though at prefent extremely fmall, will increafe like the library. He pointed out to me a very rare medal, that was difcovcred in digging the foundation for the new cathedral. It is in bronze, of the middle fize. On one fide is the head of Septimius Severus, with the follow- ing ing infcription, L. Septimius Severus Pius Aug. P. M. 7r. P. 9(viii. Cof. Hi. P. P. On the re- verfe, a figure fitting, before it a prow of a (hip, and a genius or little boy. Great merit is due to the Abbe for having given birth to this col- leftion, at firft alone and unfupprrred, and in fo difinterefted a manner, as his income does not exceed £. 60 per annum ; and in a town where li- terature is not much encouraged. This learned ecclefiaftic is now employed in writing an account of Soleure at the period of the Reformation ; and is colleding ample materials for a complete hif. tory of the canton. With refpect to natural hiftory. the onlv cabinet in the town is that formed by Senator Wallier: it is a fmall colledion, but well chofen, and parti- cularly interefting to the naturalift who travels into thefe parts, becaufe the ingenious coUeQior has chiefly confined himfelf to the minerals and petrifaftions of the canton. The circumjacent country is exceedingly pleat- ing and diverfified, and exhibits feveral points of view, which are as agreeable as wild, and as pleafing as romantic. Among thefe we were particularly ftruck with the fituation of the her- mitage called des Croix, about half a mile froiu the town, near the ftone quarry : it is a moft: agreeeable recefs at the extremity of a fmall wood, and between two ridges of bare perpendicular rocks, watered by a lively ftream ; one extremity is clofed by a fmall wood, and the other opens into fertile grounds backed by the dark Jura. Among the villas, in the environs, remarkable for their pofition, may be mentioned Ricaberg, built if?4 LETTER 20. built bv Mr. de Vigiir ; it (lands at the bottom of a gentle hilU declining tow ards the winding Aar, and commands a view of Soleure, half hid by the intervening trees ; and Bleikenberg, be- longing to Major de Ro 1, fjt jatcd amid waving grounds i^vided into enclofures, fimilar to the fertile counties of England ; the dark Jura fifing like the highlands of Scotland ; and at a diftance the fublime alps, which charafterife this romantic country. The canton of Soleure, which holds the ele- venth rank in the Flelvetic Confederacy, ftretches partly through the plain, and partly along the chains of the Jura, and contains about 50,000 fouls, including the inhabitants of the capital. The foil is, for the mod part, exceedingly fertile in corn, and thofe diilrids which lie within the Jura, abound in excellent paftures. The trade, both of the town and of the canton, is of little va- lue, although they are very commodioufly fitu- ated for an extenfive commerce. It is divided into eleven diflrids or bailliages, called Interior and Exterior ; the former are governed by bailifs, who are fenators, and remain in the towns : the latter, by bailifs drawn from the members of the Great Council, who refide in their bailliages. The following is a lift of the bailliages, with their average annual value ; the firft four are in- terior, the remainder exterior. Buckegberg Soleure. ^85 Buckegberg ^. 166 Beckburgh £. 750 Knegfetten - 146 Goefgen - 500 . Laeberen, or Qlren - - 2>^^ Grenche . 83 Dorneck . s\a Flamenthal - 62 Tierftein . 417 Falkenltein - 546 Gilgenberg. . 375 The inhabitants of the canton are Catholics, excepting thofe in the bailliage of Buckegberg who profefs the Reformed religion. In fpiritual affairs, the Catholics depend on three bifhops • the greateft part of the capital, the baiUiages of Laeberen and Flamenthal, are in the diocefe of the bifhop of Laufanne, refident at Friburgh; the remainder of the capital, the bailliage of Krieg- ftetten, and the villages in the bailliage of Olten, in that of the bifhop of Conftance ; while the other bailliages, and the town of Olten, depend on the bifhop of Bafle. But neither of thefe bi- mops can ifTue any ordinance, or even vifit their diocefes, without the approbation of the Senate, rhere are two chapters in this canton ; one at So- Jeure founded, in 930, by Queen Bertha, widow ot Rhodolph II. King of Burgundy, is compofed Dt a proyoft, whofe falary amounts to £. ;^bo per annum ; and of eleven canons, each of whom enjoy a revenue of ^.,60. Ihe provoft is chofen by the Senate, and the canons are appointed al- ternately by the Pope and Senate. The other chapter, of Schoenenwerth, founded by the an- tient counts of Falkenftein, confifts of a provoft and five canons, nominated by the Senate. The annual falary of the provoft is ^.xic, and of each canon jT. , 00. 1 here are alio one abbey of iiejiedithnes, four convents, and three nunne- ries; i86 LETTER 20. I i I vm }j 'i\' ries : the revenues of thefe religious houfes amount to ^^.2,250. The principal charitable inflitutions are, an hofpital at Soleure, and another at Olten, for the reception of burghers, fubjeds, and foreigners ; the foundation of Thurigdn, for old perfons of both fexes, belonging to the burgherfhip j a found- ling hofpital for orphans, and for children of poor burghers ; and the hofpital of St. Catharine, for the infane and incurables. The only perfons in the ca«ton of Soleure, who profefs the Reformed religion, are thoic who inhabit the bailliage of Bucke/berg. In eccle- fiaftical affiiirs, the inhabitants (iv^ugh fubjetl: to Soleure, are under the pioteclioa of Berne. For- merly this complication of political and religious interefts created frequent mifunderftandings be- tween the two cantons, but matters were amicably and finally adjufted, on the iXthof November i68r, at the treaty of Winingen. The inhabi- tants take the oath of fidelity, every third year, to the government of Soleure ; but if aggrieved in their religious eftabUihment, can have recourfeto Berne, ""rhc Senate of Berne nominates to the vacant benefices, but the priefts are under the ncceffity of obtaining the confirmation of the chapter of Soleure. A deputy from Berne pre- fents the new minifter to his paridvloners ; but the bailif is obliged to be prefent at this cere- mony, as deputy from the republic of Soleure. Berne enjoys alfo fupreme jurifdiclion in crimi- nal aflairs. If a criminal is arrefted for any ca- pital oflence, he is tried by the bailif of Buckeg- berg, and the jury of the bailliage : and, if condemned to death, he is delivered for exe- cution Soleure* 187 cution to Berne, provided that republic de- frays the expence of the trial. Soleure en- joys all the other rights of fovereignty ; fuch as the power of levying taxes, appeals in the laft refort ; and even decides all matrimonial and ecclefiaftical concerns, with this provifo, that the decifion (hall be regulated according to the articles of the treaty of Winingen. Among the natives in the canton, feveral inhabiting the bail- liages of Thierftein and Gildenberg were ferfs, but, in 1:85, their fervitude, fo contrary to the principles of that equal liberty which pervades this country, was abolifhed, to the honour of the pre- fent government. The canton furnifhes France with two com- panies for the Swifs guards, and feveral com- panies in the different marching regiments, ac- cording to the capitulation concluded between the king of France and the Catholic cantons, and their co-allies, in 1764, for the term of twenty- five years. It has alfo a regiment in the Spanifli fcrvice ; of which the colonel and the companies of fufileers can be filled only by the antient burghers. With refpeft to the militia of the canton, all the fubjefts, from the age of fifteen to that of fixty, are enrolled into t\x regiments, forming altogether about 8000 men, exclufive of 240 dragoons, and the corps artillery, amounting to 600 men. The colonel of each regiment is always a fenator, and the major .J a member of the Great council, who is ufually an officer retired from foreign fervice ; the captains are ei- ther members of the Great Council or antient burghers j the firft lieutenants are ufually antient burghers. ?f7 3S8 LETTER 20. Soleure. burghers, while the rank of fecond lieutenants and enfigns is ufually filled by the principal pcafants. The militia are aflembled and reviewed in May and September ; and in the fpring and au- tumn are exercifed in their refpedlive villages by the under-lieutentants and enfigns. According to a plan of defence, regulated in 1668, between the members of the Helvetic Confederacy, the canton of Soleure is bound to furnifli 600 for its firfl: contingency ; for this fupply 100 men, together with officers, are annually feleded from each of the fix regiments, who are to hold them- felves in readinefs to march at a moment's warn- ing. In cafe of neceffity, this contingency may be doubled or tripled in the fame manner. This burghers are incorporated in the company of fu- filecrs, and exercife themfelves on Sundays and faints days, after divine fervice, by (hooting at marks : government furniflies powder and ball, and diftributes prizes to the beft markfmen. The remaining inhabitants of the capital and envi- rons, who are not burghers, form afcparate body, cammanded by the captain of the town : they arealfo occafionally exercifed, and mount guard on the day of St. John the Baptift, when the Rofcngarten^ or the general meeting of the burgh- ers, is aflembled. The fovereign power refides in the Great Council, which, comprizing the Senate or Little Council of thirty-fix, confifts of a hundred and two members; chofen by the Senate, in equal pro- portions, from the eleven tribes or companies into which the aniient burghers are diftributed : and in all inftances the new member is taken from 1% from the company to which the laft member be- longed. The prerogatives of the Great Council arc, to enaa and abrogate laws ; to explain any obfcure parts of the conftitution ; and even make altera- tions in the form of government, fhould the cir- cumftances require it ; to levy taxes ; to declare war and conclude peace ; to contrad alliances ; to receive appeals in criminal caufes from the burghers of the capital ; and in civil procefles, above the fum of 100 Swifs livres, or £^, 6. 3^. ; to confer the new burgherfhip ; to eledt the treal furer or the fourth chief of the republic, from the antient eleven fenators ; to nominate to the feven txterior bailliages, and to the four Italian governments of Lugano, Lucano, Mendrifio, and Vulmaggia, when the turn of appointing to thofc governments belongs to Soleure ; to choofe the deputies for the diet of Frauenfield, and thofe for any extraordinary meetings of the Helvetic Confederacy ; though in both thefe cafes it is the cuftom to appoint a fenator, and ufually either of the four chiefs, the reigning advoyer excepted, who IS not permitted to be abfent during the year of his adminiflration. There are generally a few fupernumerary mem- bers m the Great Council, which circumftance proceeds from the method of appointing the bai- lifs. On the nomination of a bailif, his feat in the Great Council being efteemed vacant, is on the next day filled up by a member of the fame company in which he is infcribed. .At the con- clufion of his bailliagc he again takes his feat, prefervmg his antient rank, though confideredas a lupcrnumerary, until one of the fix members of his \ 190 LETTER 20. .fifll his tribe makes a vacancy. The qualifications for a reception into the Great Council are, that the candidate (hall be twenty years of age, an an- tient burgher, and member of the fame tribe in which the vacancy happens : and with refpeft to the iaft-mentioned qualification, it is ncceffary that the catt^idate, if infcribed in a company dif- fercprffom that of his father, muft, according to a decree paffed in 1764, have been a member of that company during a full year. The Great Council affemblcs ordinarily once every month ; and extraordinarily, on being con- vened by the Senate. The Senate, or Little Council, a conftituent part of the Great Council, is compofed of the two advoyers or chiefs of the republic, who an- nually alternate ; the chancellor or fecretary of ftate, who has no vote either in the Senate or Great Council ; and thirty-three fenators drawn from the remaining fixty-fix members of the Great Council, in equal proportion from the eleven tribes. The appointment and annual confirma- •t* tion of the advoyers and banneret by the affcmbly of burghers, as well as the confirmation of the fenators and members of the Great Council, in iheir feveral charges, will be hereafter defcribed, under the article of Rofengarten. The thirty-three fenators who, in conjunftion with the tv\o advoyers and chancellor, form the Senate, are divided into eleven feniors, and twenty-two juniors. From the eleven feniors the four princij^l magistrates are always chofen, the two advoyers, the banneret, and treaiurer. Upon a vacancy among the eleven, the right of elec- tion, though faid to refide in the twenty-three juniors. Soleure. 191 juniors, is always exercifed according to fenio- rity: the moft antient in rank amon^ the three junior counfellors, who are of the fame r u^ r'^r'^'r '^^ ^^^^ "^^"^^er belonged, pre- fentshimfelf of courfe, and is immediately an. pointed, or rather confirmed, by the tuenty three juniors. Upon the death or promotion of one among the latter, his place is immediately filled up by the two advoyers and eleven feniors. ™r T^' I' u"^''^^^'^ ''''^ ^he executive power, and with the care of the police; has fu- preme and final jurifdidion in all criminal caufes, thofe only excepted in which a burgher of the ca- pital is concerned, who may appeal from their decifion to the Great Council , Ik gives judgl mentm ah civil proceffes not exceeding the va- lue of a hundred -wifs livres. The Senate convokes the Great Council ; ex- amines ar.d digefts all affairs before they are laid before that fupreme alTembly ; fills up the vacant places therem; and in their own bodv ; either diredly or indiredly, nominates to almoft all the mportant charges of the republic ; appoints to laft refort ^ll'7 ' ^f^? '" "^''^ ^^^^^^ i" ^hc fnm h 'r ' "^"'"^ ^°"' "°^ ^^^^^^ a certain Sfm nar.r'"' '"^ ^"^^ l-rmaion over all €riminal affairs, excepting thofe which concern the burghers of the capital. beTwemv'^'''^''"' ""^f Senator are, that he fhall GreaT?o^nn T ^"^l" f '^'; " "^^^^^ ^f ^^e Oreat Council, and drawn from the fame com- En? '^ "m'^ 'I' ^'^ ^^^^^^^ belonged. Tht body affembles three times in the week, and ex! traordinarily, 192 LETTER 20* traordinarily, as often as occafion requires; and it is convoked by the reigning advoyer. The la- laries of the fenators are as follows j The reigning advoyer, about - — £* 363 1 he advoyer out of office — 137 Senior fenator -— — 46 Chancellor — — — 208 Attorney General, including his fa- lary of fenator — — 100 Junior fenator — — 37 10 10 Government draws its principal revenues, which do not amount to more than £. 1 i^^ooper ann^ from the following fourccs. i. A tax, called the tax on fortifications ; laid on the funds of the tribes and monafteries in the town, and on thofe of pariihes in the bailliages. 2. Tythes, and rentes foncieres belonging to the Itace. 3. Tolls. 4. txcife on wine. 5. Intereft of money placed out in the canton and in foreign countries. 6. Monopoly of fait. 7. Revenues from the bailliages, 8. Subfidy from France ; about £, iiob. 9. Sundry hnall fources, fuch as dcmefnes, eilates, falaries of vacant bene- fices, &c. The principal departments of government are, I. The tribunals ; which comprife the interior courts of juflice, and the Secret Council, confid- ing of feven members, namely, the two advoy- crs, the banneret, the treafurer, the firll fenior fe- nator, the chancellor, and the attorney-general ; in cafe any of thcfe perions (hould be abfent, their places are fupplied by the antient fenators, according to fen-ority. 2. 1 he boards of war. 3. Of Soleure, ^93 |. Of thofe rights, called droits reraliens a For finances agriculture, and publif buildings 5. For the pohce. 6. For ecclef.;,ft,V,i ff -^ charitable inftitutions, and fchS''"^'"' ^^"^^* capable of bei g ^Vfce" beT Tf ^ G^^:: diftinaion is to be dSd f'o^ ITyJjf' .from thefollowine caufe-! ^,,1 iT .'^^'' miiies, which fettlfd?ttc5;ur?a;7 b'S^h- nght of burgherfhip, being admitted "nTo t participation of honours 'an'"rml„t„^^''^-^ which they conceived themfelves fo ely entkl.? the Great Council iffued an edirt :„ L ^''' thofe families only, whkh a ttW ^ ^'l '^'' joyed the rights of the burSe'Ln L '^^'k '"" clufively qualified to ho f anyTfficS 1' '^■ K^rd^nl!:t^fght^"dtS^^ th«r def.en,ants Ihou/d^fd^i?^.^^^^^^^ s tSLTri:^ t&', -tcS^^^ "i^Sde^!?:-^^ ftould be conSel '"' '"'^ '^'' ^^' g°°^^ 194 LETTER 20. Bcfide the cxclufivc privilege of being en- titled to any office of government, the anfienf burghers enjoy alfo the right of • being folely appointed canons in the chapters of Soleurc and Schoenenworth, and of holding any eccle- fiaftical benefice in the gift of the Senate, But as there are at prcfent a great deficiency of clergy- men among the antient burghers, it will probably foon be thought neceflfary to difpenfe with the law on this article, and to permit the new burghers, and every fubjedl of the cantc-n, to be candidates for vacant livings. There are about eighty-five families who pof- fefs the riglit of antient burgherfhip, and of thefc, about thirty-four of the mofl illulirious, fupply the members of the Great Council, and fill all the various departments of government. The rights of the new burghers confifl in no- minating and annually confirming the advoyer, the banneret, and grand fauiier^ or lieutenant of the police ; but, as they always choofe thofc perfons, who are felefted by the Senate, as they exercifc this privilege in conjunction with the^w- tient burghers, and as, by the edidt of 168 1, they mud retire from the affembly in cafe there fhould b*e any difficulty or oppofition ; this right of cle£l:ion may be confidered as little more than a mere formality. In all other inftances, except- ing in thofe concerns which relate to govern- ment, the new burghers enjoy the fame privilege as the antient burghers ; fuch as freedom of trade and commerce ; of being proprietors of houfes and land in the capital and its diftrict. They arc alfo entitled to hold fuch ecclcfiaftical benefices as are in the gift of the chapters and of individuals. ^femby of the kofengarten. ip» • » . J''^J'P''g''^7 ' both antient and new, are dif. tnbuted . mo eleven tribes or compan es, each of the Great Council Every perfon may choofe the company . mo which he infcribes hiJnamej but having once mfcribed himfelf, he canno change u. For the purpofe of obta ning a place noH^f .'APf ^'^ •" '^^ government, a youns likely to be a vacancy ; but if he fixes upon one d fferent from^that in which his father is incorp^! rated, he muft have been received a member dSr- fof .'d^ fT ' ^"'■' I'^T ^' ^^" ^^ ^ ^^ndid^te tor admiffion into the Great Council. J cJTl^V^'''^^'^1 °^ "'''''■''' ^"'J «'«' burgh. fh^R •fl.^"rf'''^''r'''^' ^'^'^^'^ meets on St. John the Baptift's day, for the purpofe of eledini or confirming the charges of advoyer, bannfret! ZJ7f-tlT'. '' ^ ^^•■en'ony which deferves to be defcibed for its fingularity; particularly as it will alfo convey to you fome idea of thofe annua pal officers, which take place in mod of thefe ariftocratical ftates. This affembly is held in the church of the Lordehers and ,s denominated Rofengarten, dr Garden of Rofes; either becaufe a nofega; of flowers, which every burgher carries in his hand. pretend becaufe this meeting ufed to be con- faiS to'r'*=r'^".?^*^^^°^'^^'i-^' -hichis S" ' "i^';?'^ °^ fearching into fanciful etymolo- R es 1 haften-to defcribe what paffes in this an- nual meeting. ^ 2 ^5om y ig6 LETTER 20'. About fix in the morning, the advoyer out of office, the fenators, members of the Great Coun- cil, and the antient and new burghers, aflemble in their refpedtive companies. After the repeti- tion of certain fignals, the reigning advoyer, ac- companied by the chancellor, the fccretary of the finances, and fcveral other officers of ftate, re- pair, with drums beating and trumpets founding, from the town-houfe to the church of the Cor- deliers ; v;here, after prefenting his ofTering upon the altar of the Virgin, he feats himfelf on a throne, which is placed near the altar. Soon afterwards the fenators and remaining members of the Great Council make their appearance at the head of their refpedive tribes ; and having prc- fented their offerings, keep the fame rank and ftations, which they maintained on entering the church ; the advoyer out of office excepted, who places himfelf near his colleague on the throne. At the conclufion of mafs accompanied with mufic, all but the burghers retire, and the doors of the church are clofed. The advoyer rifmg up, with his fcepter in his hand, pronounces an harangue ; then delivering up the fcepter and fcals, refigns his dignity, and receives the thanks of the aflembly, by the mouth of the attorney ge- neral, for his zeal and attenti(m during the year of his government. Ncjct i'ollow, in the fame manner, the refignations of the banneret and of the attorney general ; the former of whom is thanked, in the name of the aflembly, by the attorney general, and the kttcr by the advoyer who has jufl refigned. This ceremony being finillicd, the two ad> voyers, bannerets, attorney general, and antient feuatoxs. 4^embly of the Rofengarteiu , j, fenators, retire from the choir to another part of the church ; and the chancellor fummonin^ the junior fenators mto the choir, reads over the name of each ancient fenator, and of the attor! ney general, and demands, if the junior fenators are pleafed to confirm them in the r charges for another year. This being obtained, the^chan in heS J""'°^^^r'°" ^^P^'^ '° ^he afl-emWy m the body of the church, where the chancellor reads over the names of the fenior fenators and attorney general confirmed by the juniors a^d demands the approbation of the while affembly hL T'r"* yP°" '^'' '^' advoyer who has juft refigned, and alJ ,hc fenatorl cvccd^ the advoyer out of office and the banneret come C "r ''"[;^''' ?"^ '""^^ "•"> refpeai^x'oX that they muft ,,rocced to the cicaion of the reignmg advoyer j the advoyer. who hw iuft I ate, c^Ued Lrrand Sxtutier, cries out, « Ut all hoic who choofe to eledthc right noble A B lath - '".'\V-''"'^'r' ^°'^ "P '^^'^ hands unde oath , a ul im mediately informi.-.g the advoyer of his eled.ou, the latter comes intt the cEh Hke. the oath from the chancellor, and rece v« the oath from the Grand Sauiicr. The ejSi^n of the banneret h made in ihc fame manner he feme pcrfon who had juft refigned h office a^lo^rrnS'a'^ the airembly fy thc^ii^ l.\y* J accepted, gives his hand to the in fiS? ""^"'-.l' •*' ""■" "'^^ 'he oa,h but s ZLflr""-. ^^'^'■''^/'''"'^r then retiring « ptTjpofed and recommended by the reicninp take* the oath to government. ■ At 198 LETTER 20. I) !:l At the end of thefe eleftions, fcveral decreeg of the Great Council are read, and particu- larly that which relates to the right of aniient burgherfhip, and the eledion of the advoyer, banneret, and grand fautier ; by which it is cnaded, that in cafe any oppofition Ihouid be made to the regular order of appointment, the new burgher fliall retire from the affcmbly, and the eltftion be veftcd folcly in the antient burgh- ers. The fame magiftrates are always re-clefted or confirnltd in their feveral places: the advoyer out of office is appointed reigning advoyer ; on the death of either of the advoyers, the banneret is of courfe appointed to the vacant office, and is fuccecded by the treafurer, only undergoing the formality of a nomination. At the conclufion of this ceremony, the doors of the church arc thrown open ; the reigning ad- voyer» at the head of the Senate, pafles through two lines of troops under arms to the town-houfe, where the hrll magiftrate and the antient fenators confirm the junior fenators ; after which he re- turns to his own houfe accompanied by the Se- nate and members of the Great Council, and is complimented, firft by the banneret, and after- wards by the chancellor. , From the confideration of this detail we may conclude, that thofe authors have erred who call the government of Soleurc arifto-dcmocratical, for it is certainly a moft complete ariflocracy : in- afmuch as the fuprcme government refides in the Great Council, the members whereof are exclu- fivcly taken from the antient burghers ; as there are only eighty-one families which enjoy that right. Jiffembly of the Rofengarttn. i^^ right, and no more can be added until they are reduced to twenty.fiv; as of thefe fcarcely more than thirty enjoy any (hare in the government • and laftly, as the elcdion and annu^al conS tion of the principal magiftrates h confined to the antient burghers, in cafe there fhould be any op- pofition in the general affembly called Rofengar- ten. Ihc government, however, under whatfo- and the people arc tranquil and contented. i- E T TE R 200 LETTER 21. LETTER 21. treaties ■with trance — RefieSlkm on Foreign Service. 1 HE French cmbaffador to the Helvetic body refides in Soleure, and diftributes thofe annual penfions which the king his inafter has ftipulated by treaty to pay to the Catholic can- tons. Louis the Eleventh was the firft French monarch who employed Swifs troops; and granted fubfidies to ftates, which have fmce been confiderabiy augmented by his fucceflbrs. The perpetual alliance which Francis the Firft concluded with the Swifs cantons, foon after the battle of Marignano, is confidered as the bafis of every fubfequent treaty between the two con- trading powers. Several of that king's fucceflbrs derived confidcrable advantages from the Swifs infantry in their fervice : they aided Henry the Fourth in edablifliing himfelf upon the throne of his anceftor* ; and affifted both Louis the Thir- teenth and his fon, in the fcveral wars in which they were engaged. No troops indeed have ever been Treaties with France. 201 been more juftly diftinguiflied for their fidelity valour, and excellent difcipline. ^' The general alliance between France and the tint ^nZ '""°"' ""^^'^ ^"f ^°"'^ '^^ F°"r. teenth in 1663 was to remain in force during the joint lives of that monarch, and his fon thf dauphm, and for eight years after the death of either. Towards the end of his reign, when Loms, on account of his fons deathf propofed to renew the treaty in his and his fucceffor's name, the Proteftant cantons refufed their con- fent: and it was concluded only with the athohc cantons, and the republic4f the Val! This allbnce differed from the former treaties in the following very elfential articles : It fti. ftou d be invaded, the contrading republics £ i/T" ''' ''^'^'"°"^' '^^y '« be ra^ifed a his majefty's expence, not exceeding fixtcen thoufand men ; that in cafe the Helvetic body" or any particular canton, fhould be attacked by a foreign power, the king engaged to affift them Tv UT r't '^ '^°"''l ^' i^^Scd neceffa. arife between the confrading cantons, his maiefty fhould, at the requeft of the'aggrieved party try butTttrf 'u f. '^'^^"i^ reconcih^nT but ,f tncfe fhould fail, the king agreed, both in his own name, and in that of his^ fucceffo o '°T\ ?u ''^^''^''' t° ^bide by the treaties Th"if laft an-T"" ''^r""^°"^ ^^ ^^-^^ Fr=,n.. fK ?' '"ferferencc of the king of !• ranee with the politics of Switzerland, ap. peared 2o2 LETTER 2t, dcared dangerous to many of the Swifs, and la- confiftent with that abfolute independence, which they had hitherto prized above all other ad- vantages. France having long in vain attempted to per- fuade the Proteitant cantons to accede to the al- liance, in order that a general treaty with the whole Helvetic body might be renewed, at length, after much oppofition and repeated negociations, fucceeded in effeding the meafufe. This im- portant league was concluded at Solcure in May 1777, between the king of France on one fide, and the thirteen cantons and their allies on the other, to continue in force during fifty years. By this treaty it is agreed, that if the kingdom of France ihould be invaded, the can- tons and their allies (hall furnifti an additional levy of fix thoufand men ; and if the cantons, c^r any of their allies, fhould be attacked, the king, if required, engages to furniih them, at his own cxpence, with fuch fuccours as may be deemed necclfary. That article of the treaty with the Catholic cantons in 17' 5, which related to the mediation of the king, in cafe any difputes ihould arife be- tween the thirteen cantons, is very properly and wifely omitted. Before this alliance, none of the Proteftant ftates received any penfions from France : but by the fixteenth article, the Proteftants of Glarus and Appenzel, and the town of Bienne, have agreed to accept ks argents de pais: et d^ alliance^ as tftefc fubfidies are here called. The accept- ance of penfions derogates greatly from that fpirit of abfolute independence, which all the Proteftant Refi(£liom on Foreign Service. 20 ? Proteftant cantons and -ftates of Switzerland have hitherto affeded to profefs ; and it would have reflcaed much greater honour on the Swifs na. tion, if the whole body had imitated Zuric Berne, Bafle, and Schaffhaufen, in forming the league upon terms of perfed equality, and re jedmg the proffered penfions, which give an air of venality to their treaties with France. It has long been a controverted queftion, whe- ther Switzerland gains or lofes by furnifhing, ac- cording to the tenor of her alliance with France Sardinia, Naples, and Holland, fuch numbers of her natives to ferve in foreign armies. That the fidelity of thcfe troops is fo well recognifed, as to be chofen to be the life-guards of fcveral fo. vereigns, is a circumftance which undoubtedly redounds much to the honour of the national charafter : but, on the other hand, to traffic with the blood of fubjeas, and, for paltry fubfidies, to fight the battle of any king, in any caufe, feems to betray a mercenary fpirit, uncon- trouled by confiderations of juftice and humanity. It has been urged, that if Switzerland did not furnifti thefe fupplies to foreign nations, fte would be over-ftocked with inhabitants ; and northern hives of old, to emigrate for fubfiftence • for m many parts there is no commerce, and tne mountainous trads cannot fupply fufficient provifion for fuch a numerous people. In re- ply to this realoning, it may be alleged, that the Swils do not ufe all the refources in their power : commerce might be more generally cul- tivated and encouraged ; as there is no part of Switzerland far removed from the principal ri- (:S'f''' vers / 204 LETTER .21. vers and great lakes, moft of which have a dircS communication with the lea. But, to be convinced that they have not ex- haufted all the advantages to which they might refort, let them look back on antient Greece, and the immenfe populoulneis in fo confined a coun- try; or, what is more open to their obfervation, let them confider the prcfent ftate of the Umted Provinces, and the abundance which thofe in- duftrious people enjoy on a trad of land fnatched from an element perpetually reclaiming its prior cxicupancy. But the Swifs need not be reminded of antient or foreign examples : Geneva and St. Gallen are, for their extent, exceedingly po- pulous ; and yet the natural produdions of their lands are by no means fufficient to fupport all the inhabitants. Appenzel and Vallengin are en- tirely mountainous; neverthelefs both thole diftrids are remarkably well peopled, and derive, by means of commerce and induftry, all the ne- ceffaries of life in great plenty. Indeed Swit- zerland is fo far from being over-ftocked with people, that in mod of the great towns there is a manifell deficiency of inhabitants: and in feveral parts of their country, hands are frequently wanting for the common purpofes of agricul- Thefe refleaions feem to prove the miflaken policy of Switzerland, in letting out her troops to foreign ftates. On the contrary, many cir- cumflances may be remarked in its favour. This praftice has tended to keep up the military fpirit of the Swifs, even during a ftate of pro- found peace, which has now continued, with few interruptions, for three hundred years. Th^ feveral Refleaions on Foreign Service. 205 feveral cantons not only have in conftant re- n^V?""^, "^^^^^""^ ^he leaft expence, a body of welldifciplmed forces, which they can recal at a moment's warning ; but it becomes the inte- relt, tor that reafon, of thofc forei™ powers whom they furnifh with men, not to fo! ment any divifions among them, which mi^ht render the prefence of their troops neceffary at ,7"If-./^^ ^^. this, that the privileges which the .Swifs enjoy in France, and the very advanta- geous articles, relating to commerce, fecured to them m all their treaties, feem to ftrengthen the argument for continuing their connedions of this Kind with that kingdom. This argument, however, would be more conclufive, if thofe privileges were ftill preferved in the lame latitude as was granted by the ninth article of the Perpetual Peace concluded with irancis 1. m 1516, and confirmed by feveral luccefTive treaties. But the cafe is far otherwife. IhciQ immunities have been gradually and almoft imperceptibly violated : the Swifs mer- chants were fubjefted to the poll-tax ; and frefli duties, contrary to the tenor of their rights, were impofed on their merchandife. During the admmiftration of the Duke d'AiguiUon, the bwifs complaining of ihefe infradions ; a nego. tiation was begun at Soleure with the French cmbafTador, which produced, however, no other cfteft than a fhort letter from the minifter, de- clining, m the mofl pofitive manner, to redrefs the grievances, though founded on the faith of treaties. ^ On the late renewal of the Perpetual Peace, in 1777, it was expecled that this matter of dif! pute 206 LETTER It, pute would be amicably adjufted ; and Monfieur dc Vcrgennes infinuatcd, that fuch wasthe in- tcntion of the court of Verfailles. Many cantons, and particularly Zuric, were principally induced by thefe motives and thefe expedations to accede to the alliance ; but not wholly trufting, however, to the promifes of the French cabinet, it was infift- cd that an article explaining and confirming the faid privileges (hould be inferted in the new treaty. The minilter, with his ufual addrefs, eluded a diredl mention of the demanded rights ; but, in order nor to lofe the confidence of a nation, at a time when he moft wifhed to obtain it, the king engaged, by the i8th article, \o preferve to the Swifs thofe privileges and advantages to which they had a legitimate right, and which they had hitherto enjoyed in France. And the Swifs agreed to pofl- pone the precife determination of the nature and extent of the faid privileges to future conferences^ wherein thofe matters Jhould be regulated with fide- lity and equity^ It muft appear aftonifliing that the Swifs fliould be contented with fo ambiguous a declaration ; or could be led to believe, that the French court would preferve to them their legitimate immuni- ties, in the moment when that legitimacy was a fubjeft of contention. The Helvetic body had fcon occafion to repent of their credulity. For, in 1781, the king of France idued an edift irre- vocably fubjcding the Swifs, who poffefs lands in France, to the poll-tax, and to all the national imports ; and laid the fame duties on their mer- chandife imported into France, as are paid bv the merchants of other countries, cheefe and linens excepted, which were taxed at a reduced value. But Refleaiom on Foreign Service. 207 But a ftill feverer blow was levelled agalnfl: the Swifs in 1786; when, notwithftanding the exprefs refervation granted in the Perpetual Peace, the importation of linens was prohibited in France. 1 his branch of commerce, which furniihed em- pioyment to fo many hands in various parts of Switzerland, particularly in the cantons of Zu- ric, Glarus, and Appenzel, and was almofl the lole refourcc of the natives, fpread a fenfible alarm among the natives ; but was not pro- dudive of^any ferious confequences. After the tint lurprife and agitation were part, theinduftry ot the Svyifs was not abated; and the linens found their way into France, either by contraband trade or by contraa with the French £aft India Com! pany. ) LETTER — r 208 LETTER 22. LETTER 22. The Canton of Zug, Zug, Auguft $. W^E yefterday quitted Zuric*, and walked to Albis, a fmall village about three leagues diftant, fituated near the fummit of a mountain, much vifited by travellers, who are attraded by the variety and extent of the profpeft. • I have in this part arranged the preceding letters dif- ferently from the former editions, and according to the journal of my tour in 1785; though I did not at that time proceed from Soleure to Zuric, yet I have thought proper to refume the order of my firft journey in 1 776, and to brmg the reader back to Zuric, from whence I take my departure, as before. to Zug. The travelle who enters SwiKerland at bchatt- haufen, and quits it at Geneva or Neuchatel, will per- haps find this itinerar from Zunc to Bafle, B.cnne, Soleure. and thence to Berne and Lucerne, more conyenient than that from Zuric immediately to Zug and Lucerne , while thofe who quit Switzerland at Bafle will prefer the latter. :Zug. 309 We fortunately efcaped a violent fhower of rain, accompanied with a ftorm of thunder and lightning, which had threatened for fome time, and began immediately upon our arrival : but we were well houfed ; and our hoft gave us a good fupper and an excellent bottle of Mufcat wine. We were abroad this morning by five, and had a very agreeab e walk to this place ; the weather, which had o late been very fultry, being cooled by the lightning and rain. We paffed over the field of battle at Cappel, where Zuingle was flain ; regretting this inftance of dilunion be- tween the Swifs republics, and lamenting the premature death of that great reformer, who was killed in the 48th year of his age. We pur. fri-Tf J''l"'"'y ''^'■°"Sh a pleafant country. trM A^^'""'!^ ^"•^ ^'^^'-^rc., that I could hardly diftmgu.fh any other fort. Indeed, we had before remarked the prodigious number of thofe trees m feveral other parts of Switzerland ; he country being in many places almoft a conl tinned orchard. y,Illh '^^ "H'^' °^ ^^'^ <^^nfon' ftands de- hghtlu ly upon the edge of a beautiful lake, in a fertile valley, abounding with corn, pafture, and wood This canton formerly belon^ged to he Houfe of Auftria ; and continued faithful Z. u T^^' '^^^'^ '^'' ofl^^"- neighbouring ftates had formed themfelves into independen! republics. As it hes between Zuric and Schweitz, the commumcation between thofe two cantons was maintained with difficulty ; and by this !hf H l;:eq"/nt opportunities were afforded to he Houfe of Ataftria of invading and harraffing the Swifs. Under thefe circumllances, the fiS ^°^-^- P allied 2IO LETTER 22, ,ug. an I allied cantons, in 1351, laid fiege to Zug, which was refolutely defended by the inhabitants ; but as Albert duke of Auftria was in no condition to affift them, the town at length furrendered upon the moft honourable conditions. The generofity ©f the conquerors was equal to the courage and magnanimity of the vanquiflied : for, in confe- quence of this fubmiffion, the canton of Zug was delivered from the voke of a foreign mafter ; ob- tained the moft affured liberty and independence ; and was admitted into the Helvetic Confederacy upon equal terms. The government of this little canton is ex- ceedingly complicated ; and the inhabitants ot the town have fomewhat more influence, and en- joy a greater fhare in the adminiftration of af- fairs, than thofe of the capital burghs in the five other democratical cantons. The fupreme power refides in the inhabitants of the four diftrids of Zug, Bar, Egeri, and Meutzingcn ; who aflemble yearly to enaft laws, and to choofe their magi- ftrates. The Landamman, reciprocally elefted from each of the four communities above-men- tioned, is nominated by the fuffrages of the whole coiledive diftrifts : he continues three years in office, when taken from the diftria of Zug, and but two years when chofen from each of the three others. The general adminiftration of affairs is entrufted to the council of regency, compofed of forty members : of whom thirteen are fuppHed by the diftrift of Zug, and twenty-feven arc fe- lecled equally from the three remaining commu- nities. 1 his council, as well as the Landamman, refides always in the capital. Ofwald, ^ Ofwald, one of our old Britifh kincr;,, h the titular saint of this place ; and in the church is his ftatue, with the following infcriprion : Sa,ffus OfivaUus Re.r Anglic Patronus hujus Ecch >. This Ofvvald * was a king of Northumberland in the feventh century ; and is much renowned among the monkifli writtrrfor his chadity p^'etv and power of working m.racles. I have been endeayouring to difcover the connexion between r.m™ f Q ^' "",'^'' ^^^ heptarchy, and a fmall Sr -^^7^''^''^^ ,,i,hout refledin^, how long-eftabhfhed cuftoms. In the 'church of Kome, faints are eafily tranfplanted into any foil • iwlin'TT'- I' r^^ "^ f'uperftitlon, ma/ have inclined the inhabitants of Zui^ to aJore a faint, vvhofe name is barely known in his own coumry. 1 am, (ScC. • S e an actoiint of rhis Ofwald, who wn. cJ^r^afe-f and ilain Pa LETTER LETTER 2-3' LETTER 23. lie Town and Canton of Lucerne' — General Pfiffer's Model. VV E took boat at Zug, and being rowed acrofs the lake (which is about three leagues long, and one broad) were landed at a village in the canton of Schweitz. From thence we walked to Kuflnacht ; and in our way paffed by a fmall chapel facred to William Tell, erefted on the fpot where, it is faid, he (hot the Auftrian go- vernor. At Kuflnacht, we embarked upon the lake of Lucerne ; and were much ftruck upon our approach with the fine fituation of that town, and with a noble amphitheatre of mountains, which border the lake. Lucerne, Lucerne. "3 Lucerne, originally fubjeft to the Houfe of th • ' """' /^^'■^'^ t« the inroads of Uri tonsTad' fe^' .^"^"-''l-. ^^er thofe can! pendente U^ '^''' °^° "''^"y ^«d indc- comneiled tn h '' ""f?-^^"^"'^^ 5 and her citizens to prStbeir?""''""" '5' ""^^^ ^™«' '" ^^^er tioS Trn5 l^'7"°.'">' ^'°™ ^""ff^f^t ^-'Sn ac^ Xs Jh; K l^ "■'"°"'"' ""'' furnifhed with long pikes, which they prefented before them Thf a wed^Ur;" '=' ^° ^^^ ^"-^ in thTibrm tf a wedge, m order to open their way into the rank? ■ of ** 214 LETTER 2^ Lucerne, 0* 215 of the enemy, and to break the folidity of the battalion. 'Ihc nuftrians, neverthelefs, continu- ing for feme rime impenetrable ; Arnold de Win- kclried, a native of Undervvalden, ruflied alone upon the enemy to certain death ; and, fcizing as many pikes as he could grafp, endeavoured to foice through the ranks: but he was killed in the attempt. His patriotic valour, however, was not exerted in vain : it inflamed the Swifs with new courage, and taught the beft method of pe- netrating into the battalion ; which they at length effected, after the mod defperate efforts of in- vincible refolution. Leopold himfclf might have efcaped, when his troops iirlt brgan to give way ; but, with a mag- nanimity wortj.y of a better fate, he determined, after having been a witnefs to the total rout of his army, not to furvive ib ignominious a day : accordingly he rufhcd into the thickefl of the enemy, and was flain. In the arfenal of this place are Hill preferved his armour, together with a large quantity of cords ; with which, according to tradition, he intended to have bound the citizens of Lucerne. The keeper of the arfenal difplayed them to us with the fame kind of triumph, as the man, who flievvs the Tower of L ondon, points out the chains that were tijken on board of the Spanilh armada ; which Philip the Second is i'aid to have dcftined for the princ pal nobility of Engkrfiu. The government of Lucerne is entirely arido- cratical, or rather oligarchicaL The fovereign power refides in the Council of one hundred, comprifmg the Senate or Little Council. The foraier is the nominal fovereign : but the whole pow er power aaually refides in the latter, confiftinff of thirty-fix members, who arc formed into two di- vifions, which exercife the office by rotation. The members of this Senate are neither confirmed bv the Sovereign Council, nor by the citizens, but are only dependant upon themfelves ; the divi- fion which retires at the end of fix months, con- hrmmg that which comes into office. Befides the vacant places in the Senate are filled by iu own body ; fo that the power remains in the pof- lellion of a few patrician families : and, as the fon generally fucceeds his father, or the brother his brother, the fenatoriai dignity may be confi. dered, in fome meafure, as hereditary. The adminiftration of the current affairs, the care of the police, the management of the fi. nances, and the whole excutive power, refides in the Senate, which fits conftantly ; whereas the Sovereign Council is affembled only upon parti- cular and important occafions. The Senate has cognizance of criminal caufes ; but in cafe of ca- pital condemnation, the Sovereign Council is con- voked in order to pronounce the fentence : a prac tice worthy of imitation! for the condemnatioa of a criminal cannot be too maturely weighed • ^nd great folemnity ufed in pronouncing the ^tZ tcncc, muft imprefs a ftrong effeft upon the minds of the people. In civil caufes, an ap. peal hes from the Senate to the Sovereign Coun- cil ; but this muft be a mere formality: as, in fad, it is an appeal from the fenators in one court to the fame fenators in another. Indeed, their influence over the Sovereign Council mufl neceffarily be abfolute : for, they themfelves con. Ititute above a third of that body j choofe their own ii •* n 4» 2l6 LETTER ^3 own members ; and confer the princij^l charges of government. They nominate alfo to the ec- clefiaftical benefices, which are very confiderable ; near two thirds of the revenues of the canton be- longing to the clergy. The chiefs of the republic are two advoyers, who are chofen from the Senate by the Sovereign Council, and are confirmed armually. In all cledions, the relations of the candidates, to the third degree, are excluded from voting ; and neither the father and the fon, nor two brothers, can be members of the Senate at the fame time. Excellent inftitutions, one fhould think, to pre- vent the too great influence of family-connedions! excellent indeed in theory, but ufelefs in prac- tice ; and this circumftance proves, that when the fpirit of the conltitution is purely oligarchi- cal, any laws enaded for the purpofe of coun- tcrafting the power of the nobles, are mere cy- phers. In fomc few inftanccs, however, the authority of the nobles is controuled : for, in cafe of declaring war and peace, forming new alli- ances, or of impofing new taxes the citizens muft be aflfcmbled, and give their confent. Lucerne being the firft in rank and power among the ('atholic cantons, is the refidence of the Pope's nuncio ; and all affairs relative to re- ligion are treated in the annual diet which affem- bles in this town, compofed of the deputies of thofe cantons. The town contains fcarcely three thoufand inhabitants ; has no manufadures of any confequence ; and little commerce ; and as to learning, it no where meets with Icfs en- couragement, and confequently is no where lefs cultivated. What a contraft to Zuric! Yet, under Lucerne. 217 under thefe difadvantages, a few perfons have made no mconfiderablc progrefs in literature. Among thefe the moft confpicuous is Mr. Bal- thafar, member of the Senate : he pofTcffes a library that is rich in books relative to the hiltory of Switzerland, in which he is extremely converfant ; and the publications which he has already given to the world, and thofe which he IS now preparing for the prefs, proves that he knows how to ufe them. His works are, for the moft part, in the German and Latin tongues ; they contain biographical anecdotes of feveral illuftrious Swifs ; elucidate various important parts in the general hiflory of Switzerland : but more particularly relate to the canton of Lucerne. His fon, a member of the Great Council, de- erves to be mentioned for his colleftion of Eng- liih books ; and the zeal with which he endea- vours to propagate a knowledge of literature. I have alfo no. lefs fatisfadion in adding, that, fince my firft expedition into thefe parts, fciencc IS more cultivated ; that the principles of tolera- tion are better undcrftood and more widely dif. fufed; and that a literary fociety is eftablifhed tor the promotion of polite learning. The population of the canton has confiderably in- creaied within this century : a fure proof of a mild and eguitable government. The inhabitants are, a^ 1 am informed, almoft totally engaged in agriculture. The fouthern parts of the canton are chiefiy mountainous, and furnifh for exporta- tion cattle, hides, cheefe, and butter. Ihe northern diftrid is fruitful in corn; the crops of which being more than fufficiem for the con- lumption of the whole canton, there is a con- ftant / 2l8 LETTER 23. ftant exportation of this article from the weekly market held in the town, to which the inhabi- tants of the neighbouring deinocratical cantons refort, in order to purchafc that and other neccf- faries in which their own country is deficient* The overplus for the fupply of this market is drawn from Suabia and Alface. This com- merce, which, together with the pafTage of the mcrchandife for Italy, is the chief fupport of the town, might be exceedingly improved and aug- mented, confidering its advantageous fituation ; for the Reufs iffues from the lake, pafles through the town ; and having joined the Aar, falls into the Rhine. The cathedral and the Jefuits church, are the only public buildings worthy of obfervation ; but they are too much loaded with rich ornaments, and difgraced by bad paintings. In the cathe- dral is an organ of a fine tone, and of an extra- ordinary fize; of the latter you may judge by the dimenfions of the center pipe ; which, as the prieft affured me, is forty feet in length, near three in breadth, and weighs eleven hundred pounds. The bridges which fkirt the town, round the edge of the lake, are the fafhionable walks of the place, and remarkable for their length. Being covered at top, and open at the fides, they afford a conftant view of this delight- ful and romantic country. They are decorated with cnarfe paintings, reprefenting the hiftories of the Old Tcftament, the battles of the Swifs, and the dance of Death. Upon our arrival at Lucerne, we fent a letter of recommendation to General Pfift'er, a native of this town, and an officer in the French fervice. He Lucerne. 219 He received us immediately, with his ufual civi- adon'of fh'"'' r ^'' ^^P^S-Phi-1 reprefen. tanon of the moft mountainous part of Swit- zerland, which well deferves the accurate at- tention of the curious traveller. It is a model m relief ; and what was finifhed in 1776 com pnfed about fixty fquare leagues, in the Cantons" of Lucerne, Zug, Berne, Uri, Schweitz, andUn. derwalden The model was twelve feet on. and nine and a half broad. ^' The compofition is principally a maftic of char- coaU hme, clay a little pitch, with a thin coat of wax; and 18 fo hard as to be trod upon without receiving the lead damage. The whole IS painted with difierent colours, reprefenting the objefts as they exift in nature. It is worthy of particular obfervation, that not only the woods of oak, beech, pine, and other trees, are dif! tmguiflied ; but alfo that the ftrata of the feveral rocks are marked ; each being (haped upon the fpot and formed with granite, gravel, cakare- ous ftone, or fuch other natural fubftances as compofe the original mountains. The plan is mdeed fo minutely exaft, that it comprises not only all the mountains, lakes, rivers, towns, viU lages, and forefts ; but every cottage, every tor- lTrh'Z'7' ^V^g^ ^^^^y ^oad, and even every path IS diftmaiy and accurately rcprefented General Pfiffer has already been employed in this work about ten years, with the moll aftonift- ing patience and affiduity : he has himfelf raifcd he plans upon the fpots, taken the elevations of the mountains, and laid them down in their fevc- ral proportions. In the profecution of this labo- nous performance, he has been twice arrcftcd for 120 LETTER 23- for a fpy ; and in the popular cantons has fre- quently Bfeen forced to work by moon-light, in order to a\T3id the jealoufy of the peafants, who think their Uberty would be endangered, fliould fo exad a plan be taken of their country. As he is, obliged to remain fomc time upon the tops of the Alps, where no provifions can be procured ; he generally carries with him a few fhc-goats, whole milk fupplies him with nourifhment. In- deed his perfeverance in furmounting all the dif- ficulties, that neceffarily have arifen in the courfc of this undertaking, is almoll inconceivable. When he has finiflied any particular part, he fends for the peafants and chajfeurs who refide on the fpot, and bids them examine accurately each mountain ; whether it correfponds, as far as the fmallnefs of the fcale will admit, with its natural appearance : then, by frequently re- touching he correds the deficiencies. He takes his elevations from the level of the lake of Lu- cerne ; which, according to Mr. de Sauffure, is about fourteen hundred and eight feet above the Mediterranean. This model, exhibiting the mofl mountainous parts of Switzerland, conveys a fublime picture of immenfe Alps piled one upon another : as if the ftory of the 1 itans were realized, and they had fucceeded (at leaft in one fpot of the globe) in heaping Offa up>on Pelion, and Olympus upon OfTa. The general informed me, that the tops of the Alps which crofs Switzerland in the fame Jine, are nearly of the fame level ; or in other words, there are continued chains of mountains of the fame elevation, rifmg in progreflion to the highefl range ; and from thence gradually defccnding Lucerne. 22% dcfcending in the fame proportion towards He is exceedingly polite and affable to itrangers, and ever ready to be of any fervice to travellers, in pointing out the beft roads, and in acquainting them with the places mofl worthy of omervation. *' Near Lucerne is Mount Pilate, formerly called Mons Pi/eatus, from the Latin word pika ; its top being generally covered with a cloud or cap. inis word has been corrupted into Fi/afus ; and trom this alteration a thoufand ridiculous ftories have been invented ; among others, that Pontius t'llate, after having condemned our Saviour to death, was feized with remorfe ; made an ex- curfion into Switzerland ; and drowned himfelf ma lake, which is at the top of that mountain. Ihis corruption of a word, and the abfurd legend tabncated from its alteration, will naturally re- mind you of feveral fkbles of fimilar abfurdity which are ferioufly related by the Greek writers • a circumftance which my very worthy and learn- ed triend Mr. Bryant, has fo amply and ably dif- cufled, in his Jnalyjs of antient Mythology. I am, &c. POSTCRIPT. Having, In three fucceffive vifits to Lucerne obferved the gradual progrefs of General Pfiffer's model, and in Auguft 1786 feen it finally com- pleted, I am enabled to add the following parti- culars, partly from my own obfervation, and partly communicated by the ingenious artifl him- The 222 LETTER 23, The model is compofed of a hundred and forty- two compartments of different fizes and forms : they are refpeftively numbered ; and the whole can be taken to pieces and united with almoft as much eafe (if we may compare great things with fmall) as the differed maps, by which children are inftrufled in geography. The lake of Lucerne, nearly the center of Switzerland, forms alfo the center of the plan, which lays down part of the circumjacent can- tons of Zuric, Zug, Schweitz, Underwalden, Lucerne, and Berne, and a fmall portion of the mountains of Glarus. It comprehends a fpace of 1 8^ leagues* in length, and 1 1 in breadth ; and the dimenfions of the model being 20 feet j- and a half in length, and 1 2 in breadth ; 203^ fquare leagues are reprefented on a parallelogram of 246 feet ; or about two Enghfh miles and ^ by a fquare Englifli foot. The higheft point of the model from the level of the center, is about ten inches ; and as the mod elevated mountain reprefented therein rifes 1475 toifes, or* 9440 feet, above the lake of Lucerne, at a grofs calculation, the height of an inch in the model is equivalent to about 900 feet. And it is a matter of aftonifhment to obferve the ftupendous works of nature delineated with fuch perfedt re- femblance in fo fmall a compafs. As to myfelf, though 1 received confiderable fatisfaftion from the firfl: view of this extraor- dinary performance, yet I again contemplated it with much more pleafurc, and ftill greater afto- »A league h equal to 2,288 toife.*^ or 13,728 French fccr, or 14,643 EngliiL leer. f French fcer. nlfhment General Pfffer's Model 22 j nifliment, when I was able to trace on it many ot my various expeditions, and to recognize its lurpriling accuracy. 1 he general began this elaborate work at the age ot fifty, and though now in the Seventieth year ot his age, continues his annual expeditions into the Alps, with a fpirit and ardour that would tatigue a much younger perfon. It is likewife no Jels entertaining than inftrudive, to hear him ex- patiate with an agreeable vivacity, on the mod interefting objeds, which are obferved on the model. He kindly fupplied me with the fol- lowing remarks, which I tranfcribe from my journal. ' According to a rough calculation, the heiVht on which fnow ufually remains during fummer, may be eftimated at 1360 toifes, or 8704 Endifh feet, above the level of the fea ; and on which it never melts, at 1448, or 9264 feet. As a curious inftance of divided property, he pointed out the promontory called Kicman, oa the weftern fhorc of the lake of Zug, of which tne ground belongs to Lucerne, the timber to ^h J^^ '^^"^^^ ^^ Schweitz. As a proof ot aftonifhing confidence, he (hewed me, on each Me ot the road that runs through the valley of Muotta in the canton of Schweitz, i^everal ranges ot Imall (hops uninhabited, yet filled with vari- ous goods, of which the prices are marked : any pailengers, who wift to become purchafers, en- ter the (hops, t^k- away the merchandife, and dfpolit the price, which the owners call for in the evenmrr. "*^ Among the phaenomena of nature he men- tioned the Rigi, an infulated mountain near the -aKe ot Lucerne, t;venty.fivc miles in circum- ferencc. ■|i:- 224 LETTER 23- ijf ' § ferencc, and rifing to a perpendicular height of more than four thoufand feet above the furface of the lake : it is entirely compofed of gravel and pudding.flone, and muft have been formed by the waters. The RIgi joins to a fmall ridge of fand-ftone running towards Schweitz. Mount Pilate offers a moft fingular curiofi- ty. At the elevation of five thoufand feet, and in the moft perpendicular part of the moun- tain, near the pafturc of Brunlen, is obferved, in the middle of a cavern hollowed in a black rock, a coloffal ftatue, which appears to be of white ftone. It is the figure of a man in dra- pery ftanding, leaning one elbow on a pedeftal, with one leg crofled over the other, and fo re- gularly formed, that it cannot be a lu/us nature. This ftatue is called Dominic by the peafants, who frequently accoft it from the only place in which it can be feen, and when their voices are re-echoed from the cavern, they fay, in the fiin- plicity of their hearts, " Dominic has anfwered us/' It is difEcult to imagine by whom, or in what manner this ftatue could be placed in a fituation, which has hitherto proved inacceffible to all who have endeavoured to approach it. About the beginning of the prefent century, one Huber, a native of Krientz, a neighbouring village, at- tempted to dcfcend into the cavern by means of ropes let down from the fummit of the rock : he fucceeded fo far as to gain a near view of this fingular phaenomenon, and was again drawn up in fafety. On a fecond trial, as he was fufpended in the air, and was endeavouring to draw himlelf into the cavern by fixing a grapple to the ftatue, the General Pjfer's Model: 225 the cord broke, and he was dafhed to pieces bmcc that dreadful accident no one has ventured to repeat the experimem from the fame quirter. Another trial to penetrate to the ftatue was made m 1^56 by General PfifFer and eight perfons, trom a fmall openmg on the oppofite fide of the mountain, m which the natives colled a white lubltancc called mond4och, or cream of the moon. As this openmg is fuppofed to communicate with the cavern, the general and his companions crept on their hands and knees for a confiderable way one behind the other, and winding in the bed of a imall torrent, through feveral narrow pafTages they at length difcovered the light of the fua " through a remote chafm ; but as the diftance leenied very confiderable, and as the fall of a fingle ftone might have obftrufted their return, . they thought it imprudent to venture any further and retreated without having effeded their pur- Vol. I. Q. LETTER ti6 LETTER 24- LETTER 24- Valky of Enflibuch—Zoffin^en-'Lake of Sempach ^^Anniverfary of the Battle. 1 N my firft expedition to this country, I had no opportunity of vifiting the interior parts of the canton of I ucerne, which I afterwards tra- verfed in 17H5 and 178^. On both thofe occafions I paffed from Berne to Lucerne, one time along the high road lead- ing through Zofiingen, Surzee, and by the lake of Sempach ; at the other, through Langenau, the Emme-thal, and the valley of Enilibuch, a diftria which, though not ufually frequented by travellers, yet highly deferves their atten- tion. In the 1 3th centurv, Fntlihuch was fubjcft to the counts of Wolhaufen, and came by purchafe, in 1299, to the emperor Albert. In the follow- Vatley of Entlibuch. ^27 ing century it was held as a fief from the Houfc of Auftna by feveral fucccflive counts ; of thefc the laft, Peter of Torrenberg, having grievoufly opprcfltd the natives, they revolted, and in 17/5 threw themfelves under the protedion of Lu- ^vl^\ That republic continucii to pcfTefs Kn- thbuch, as a feudal tenure under the Houfe of Auftna, until 1405; when the archduke Frederic renounced all the rights of fovereignty in favour or Lucerne. For above a century and an half fubfequent to that period, the inhabitants, infiam-d uith a ipirit of independence, and excited by the ex- ample of the neighbouring popular cantons, fre- quently rofe in arms, and attempted to eltablifh a democracy ; but without fuccefs. Their laft: infurreftion broke out in 1 653 ; fince which time they have continued in a ft ate of perfeft tran- quility, under the wife adminiftration of Lu^ cerne ; and have enjoyed, with contentment, the confiderable privileges with which they are endowed. The bailliage of Entlibuch extends from the l^mme-thal m the canton of Berne, to the bridge near Wertenftein, about fifteen miles in leno-th, and mnc in its greateft breadth ; and contain's at lealt 11,000 fouls. It is governed by a bailif, who IS always a fenator of Lucerne : he continues in office two years, and generally refides in that capital. The inhabitants enjoy confiderable im- munities, which they know how to prize The bailliage is divided into three diftri^s ; the Upper, or EfchUfmat ; the Middle, or bhueplen ; the Lower, or Entlibuch ; each 0^2 _ whereof ■« 228 LETTER 44- whereof has its feparatc courts of juftice, from which an appeal lies to Lucerne. r , • That part of the baiUiage which 1 iraverfed, i» a valley, watered by leveral lively mulets, winding for fome way between two ndges ot well-wooded hills, and abounding in pifturefque fcenery. Afterwards the country was undulat- ing, and the road, which was narrow and rugged, ran along continual acclivities and declivities, through well, cultivated 5elds of palture. i paffed through feveral villages, of which the principal were Efchlifmat, Shuepfen, and Entli- buch, which takes its name from the rivulet Entle, and gives it to the whole diftrift. Ihele places are ftnall; but the whole country is ftrcw. ed with cottages, and feems a continued village. 1'he inhabitants chiefly follow agriculture -, they rear large quantities of horned cattle, flieep, goats, and fwine ; make and export chcefes m great abundance. Though ufually richer than the in- habitants in the other parts of the canton, yet they did not appear fo well cloathed, or to pot- fefs fuch neat cottages, as their neighbours in the Emme-thal. The peafams of Entlibuch are much efteemed for their independent fpint, vi- eour, and Rrcngth ; remarkable for keennefs and vivacity ; for great quicknefs in repartee ; for a peculiarity of garb ^ and for many ftrikmg cul- toms which diainguifti them from the natives ot the circumjacent diftrias. Of various ufages, which efcaped my notice during my ihort Itay among them, I chanced to gain intormation ot one cuflom, which reminds me of the Fefccnmna Licentia mentioned by Horace, that prevailed among Valley of Entlibuch. zzq among the Roman peafants. Two neighbouring panftes fend a challenge to each other ; and, at the concluiion of the carnival, each difpatchcs a man, bedizened with flowers and (hells, called prove-monday.embaJJ'ador ; who rides to the neigh- bouring village, and reads, or rather lings, two fatincal compofuions in verfe : the one, a gene- ral nuirc agaiiift the parifh, ufually begins by cele- brating a period of Swifs hillory accommodated to the circumftances of time and place; thea draws a companion between the two parifhes, giv- ing the preference to his own, either for the iu- f erior learning and piety of the prielt, the wif- dom and impartiality of the prefident, the induf- try and fpirit of the men, the beauty and chalHty of the women, and the education of the children. The fecond compofiiion confifts of a firing of cpi- grams in ridicule of particular perfons ; in which any fcandalous adventures, or ludicrous circum- ftances, which have happened (ince the laft year, are recorded with much exaggeration. The poet finiflies his harangue with exprefling a wifli, that on the next Shrove-monday the inhabitants may improve, and not defcrve fych a fevere repri- mand. On the conclufion of this Icfture, which creates much laughter, the mock tmbaffador returns ; and the men of the two parilhes repair, with drums beating and colours flying, to an open place, called the Field of Battle, followed and encourag- ed by the inhabitants of their refpeftive parifties. When the two armies are drawn up in order of battle; the combatants, in imitation of the old Swifs cuftom, fall down upon their knees, ofier up m a3o LETTER 24, '*! up a (hort pra)er, and ftart up at the found of the truiTJpet. Having formed themfelves into two columns of Several ranks, they march arm in arm, with uniform ftep and military attitude ; both the fore- moft lines meet in front and joftle agamft each other, being fupported and pufhed forwards by the hinder files, frequently aflifled by the women, until one phalanx is broke. The viaorious party is dignified with the name of the Swifs^ and thole who gave way are czWtdi A ujhians, in allufion to the ancient animofity betwten thofe two powers. The jurymen of the diftrift are prcfent as um- pires, and to prevent any violent difputes and quarrels. After the rencounter both parties fit dov n to table, and the day is concluded with feafting. , As thofe fatirical compofitions occalionally created much ill-will between the two neighbour- ing parifhes, and the rencounters were attended with various accidents, the government of Lu- cerne abolifhed the cuftom ; but has lately per- mitted it to be revived, with certain reftriftions calculated to prevent any future mifchief. The valley of Entlibuch may be confidered as one of thofe parts which unite the mild and cul- tivated, with the more wild and rugged fcenery of Switzerland ; its acclivities gradually afcend and terminate in Mount Pilate, whofe barren top is fcen towering above the fertile and well wooded hills. • • • • On quitting this valley we crofled the Emma over \ covered bridge, admired the romantic pofitionof Wertcnftein, a convent of Cordeliers, ' - • . overhanging Sempach. 231 overhanging the perpendicular banks of that tor- rent ; and pafl'ed through a vtry (tcep and rocky country to iV: alters, a fmall village within a league of the capital. Here being a confide-ra- ble fair, I flopped and dined at the table d'hote^ in company with feveral gentlemen from Lu- cerne. In walking through the fair, 1 obferved feveral booths for the fale of artificial flowers ; which were purchafed by the country girls. With thefe flowers, and with four bows of ribbands, they ornament their hats which they adjuft ob- liquely, with a degree of rultic coquetry that is not unbecoming. Another diflria of this canton, is that part which I vifited in 1786, along the high road leading from Berne to Lucerne. 1 pafTed the night at Zoffingen, a fmall town in the canton of Berne, the inhabitants whereof enjoy greater im- munities than any other place in that whole can- ton. Ihey have their oun magiflrates ; and what IS peculiar, their own courts of juflice, both civil and criminal, which decide in the lafl refort, without an appeal to Berne. A bailif refides there ; but his whole employment confifl^ in col- leding the tythes. The town contains about two thoufand fouls. Near Zoffingen I entered the canton of Lu- cerne, and paiTed through a narrow valley bounded by a chain of hills remarkable for the richnefs and variety of hanging woods. As we proceeded the valley expanded ; we traverfed a gently waving country, and defcended to Sur- zee, a fmall neat town near the lake of Sem- pach. From thence we coafted the wcfl fide of 232 LETTER 24- of that lake, which is a fmall but beautiful piece of water, about three miles in lenejth, and one in breadth. The grounds on each fide flopc gent- ly to the edge of the water, and are prettily checkered with wood. On the oppofite banks of the lake, I obferved the town of Sempach, cele- brated tor the bartie which eftabliflied the liber- ty of the Sw ifs ; and which I have already men- tioned in the preceding letter. 'Ihe anuiverfary of that battle, which happened on the 9th of July, 1386, is flill commemorated with great folcmnity both at Sempach and Lucerne ; and fupplies a copious fubjeft for many poems and ballads in the numerous colleftion of national fongs. On that anniverfary, a large body of perfons of all ranks ailemble on the fpot where the battle was fought ; a prieft afcends a pulpit credted in the open air, and delivers a thankfgiving fermon on the iuccefsful efforts of their anceftors on that happy day, which enfured to their country liberty and independence. On the conclufion of this fermon, another pried reads a defcription of the battle, and commemorates the names of thofe brave Swifs who glorioufly Sacrificed their lives in de- fence of their freedom. Having exhorted thofe who are prefent to pray for the fouls of their countrymen, and of the enemies, who fell in that battle ; they all repair inftantly to a fmall chapel, where maffes are fung for the fouls of the deceafed. During this fervice, the people, falling on their knees, pray for their glorious an- ceftors, cither in the chapel, on whofe walls are painted % Sempach. jj^ painted the deeds of the Swifs who immortaliz- ed themfelves in this conflift, or before four ftone croffes which diftinguilh the place of combat. LETTER *S4 LETTER 2S< LETTER 25, Ihe Lake of Lucerne — Gerifau — Schweitz — Origin §f the Helvetic Confederacy — William Tell-^ Altdorf T, HE Waldftaetter S^c, or the Lake of the Four Cantons, is, from the greatnefs and fubli- mity as well as variety of fc.ncry, perhaps the finefl body of water in vSwitzerland. The upper branch or the lake of Lucerne, is in the form of a crofs ; the fides of which ftretch from Kuffnacht to Dallenwal, a fmall village near Stantz. It is bounded towards the town of Lu- cerne by cultivated hills Hoping gradually to the water, contrafted on the oppofite fide by an enormous mafs of barren and craggy rocks. Mount Pilate rifes boldly from the lake, and is perhaps one of the highcff mountains in Switzer- land, if eftimated from its bafe, and not from the level of the fea. According to General Ffiffer, its Lake of Lucerne. 235 Its elevation above the lake is more than ^xx thoufand feet : neverthelefs its height above the Mediterreanean is trifling, in comparifon with that of the Alps we are going to vifit \ nor indeed does the fnow continue all the year upon its fummit. Towards the end of this branch, the lake contrafts into a narrow creek fcarcely a mile acrofs ; foon after, it again widens, and we en- tered the fecond branch, or the lake of Schweitz : on the weflern fide the canton of Underwalden, on the eaftern that of Schweitz. Here the mountains are more lofty, and infinitely varied : fome covered to their very fummits with the moft lively verdure ; others perpendicular and ^^^^gy J here forming vafl: amphitheatres of wood ; there jutting into the water in bold pro- montories. On the eaftern fide of this branch, is the vil- lage or town of Gerifau, at the foot of the Rigi: it is the fmalleft republic in Europe. Its terri- tory is about a league in breadth, and two in length ; fituated partly on a fmall neck of land at the edge of the lake, and partly lying upon the rapid declivity of the Rigi. It contains about 1200 inhabitants : they have their general affem- bly of burgeffes, their Landamman, their council of regency, their courts of juftice, and their mi- litia. I was informed, that there is not a fingle horfe in the whole territory of the republic ; as indeed might well be fuppofed : for, the only way of arriving at the town is by water, except- ing a narrow path down the fteep fides of the mountain, which is almoft impaffable. Gerifau is entirely compoled of fcattcred houfes and cot- tages £ .4 if 3^ LETTER 25- tagcs of a very neat and pi^lurefque appearance. Each dwelling is provided with a field or fmall garden. 'Ihe inhabitants are much employed in preparing filk for the manufaaurcs of Bafle. This little republic is under the protcclion of the four cantons, Lucerne, Uii, :^chwcitz, and Underwalden ; and in cafe of war furnilhes its quota of men. To the am[)itious politician, ^^ ho judges of governments by extent of dominion and power, fuch a diminutive republic thrown into an obfcure comer, and fcarceiy known out of its own contracted territory, mult appear unworthy of notice ; but the fmalleil fpot of earth on which civil freedom is cultivated and flourifhes, cannot fail of interefting thofe who know the true value of Uberty and independence; and are convinced, that political happinefs does not confift in great opulence and extenfivc empire. Towards the end of this branch the lake forms a confiderable bay ; in the midft of w hich lies the village of Brunnen, celebrated for the treaty, concluded, in 1515, between IJri, Schweitz, and Underv#aldcn. Here I landed, and walked through an agreeable and fertile plain, laid out in meadows, and planted with fruit trees, to Schweitz, which (lands on tne Hops of a hill, at the bottom of two high, fharp, and rugged rocks, called the Schweitzer-Haken, Its polition is extremely agreeable. The church, which is a large magnificent building, {lands in the center of the place : near it the houfes are contiguous to each other : but in the other parf they are prettily difperfed about the gentle accUvities, in the midft of lawns and meadows, and fticltered by Lake of Uru 237 by groves of trees. The principal object of cu- riofity in Schweitz, is a complete colledlion of the celebrated Hetlinger's medals, pofTeffed by his nephew. This colledion, which he inherited from his uncle, is very valuable, the medals be- ing all of the fineft imprefTions, and feveral ex- tremely rare. From thefe medals Mr. de Me- chel publifhed his much eftecmed engravings, to which he has prefixed a life of the artift, who was born in the canton of Schweitz, on the 28th of March 1691, and died in a very advanced age. Having reimbarked at Brunnen, we foon en- tered the third branch, or the lake of Uri ; the fcenery of which is fo grand and fublime, that its impreilion will never be erafed from my mind. Imagine to yourfelf a deep and narrow lake about nine miles in length, bordered on both fides with rocks uncommonly wild and roman- tic, and, for the moft part, perpendicular ; with forefts of beech and pine growing down their fides to the very edge of the water : indeed the rocks are fo entirely fteep and overhanging, that we fcarceiy obferved more than four or five fpots where we could have landed. On the right-hand, upon our firft entrance, a detached piece of rock, at a fmall diftancefrom the fhore, engaged our attention. This rock is wholly formed by ftones of the fize and fhape of bricks, fo as to appear quite artificial. The fame kind of natural malonry may be obferved in the lofty clifis which impend over this lake, not far from Brun- nen. It rifes to about fixty feet in height ; is covered v/ith underwood and fhrubs ; and re- minded me of thofe crags that fhoot up in the Fall 238 LETTER 25. William Tell. 23'9" ,5 Fall of the Rhine near Schaffhaufen : but here the lake was as fniooth as cryftal ; and the filent, folemn gloom which reigned in this place, was not lefs awful and affeding than the tremen- dous roaring of the cataraft in the other. Some- what further, upon the higheft point of the See- lifberg, we obferved a fmall chapel that feemed inacceffible ; and below it, the little village of Gruti, near which the three heroes of Swit- zerland are faid to have taken reciprocal oaths of fidelity, uhen they planned the famous re- volution. , 1 1 f On the oppofite fide appears the chapel ot William Tell, erefted m honour of that hero, upon the very fpot where (it is faid) he leaped from the boat, in which he was conveying as a prifoner to Kufi'nacht. It is built upon a rock that projefts into the lake under a hang- ing wood : a fituation amid fcenes fo itrikingly awful, as muft ftrongly affed even the molt dull and torpid imagination ! On the infidc of this chapel, the feveral aftions of William Tell are coarfely painted. While we were viewing them, we obferved the countenances of our watermen gliftening with exultation, and they related to us, with much fpirit and fenfibi- lity, the cruelties and tyranny of Geller, go- vernor of Uri, and the intrepid behaviour of their glorious deliverer. Indeed I have fre- quently remarked with pleafiire, the national enthufiafm which fo generally prevails in this country ; and have greatly admired the fire and animation with which the people dilcourie of thofe famous men amon^^ their ancellors, to whom they are indebted for that happy Hate ot indepenLlcnce independence which they now enjoy. This laud- able fpirit is continually fupported and encou- raged by the number of ftatues, and other me- morials, of the antient ^wifs heroes, which are fo common in every town and village thoughout Switzerland. ^Among thefe, Tell is the moft diftinguifhed, •and he feems to be the peculiar favourite of the common people: the reafon is obvious ; for his (lory partakes greatly of the marvellous. A few years ago a treatife, entitled Fable Da- noife, was publifhed at Berne ; in which the au- thor calls iii queliion the hiftory of William Tell. Tho' his arguments in general a-e by no means conclufiye ; yet he mentions two circumftances, which, if true, are convincing proofs, that much fidion is interwoven with the whole account : for, the author aflerts that the incident of Tell's (hooting the apple from the head of his fon, is not recorded in any of the contemporary hifto- rians, although they give the minuted accounts of the governor's tyranny; and that the firfl: writer who takes notice of it, is Pctermann Et- terlin of I ucerne, who lived in the latter end of the fifteenth century, near two hundred years after the fad is fuppofed to have happened. Be- fides, a rtory of the fame kind is related in the Danifh annals by Saxo Grammaticus, with fcarctily any difference but that of names : Herod king of Denmark fupplies the place of the go- vernor of Uri ; and Toccothat of William Tell ; and this event, which is faid to have happened in 965, is attended alfo with nearly the fame incidents, as thofe recorded in the Swifs ac- counts. 240 L E T T E R 25. accounts*. Neverthclefs, it is fa; from being a ncceffary confequence. that, bccaufe the au- thenticity of the ftory concerning the apple is liable to fome doubts ; therefore the whole tra- dition relating to Tell is fabulous. Neither is it a proof againft the reality of a faft, that it is not mentioned by any coRtempofary hiftorians. The general hiftory of William Tell is repeatedly -celebrated in feveral old German fongs, fo re- markable for their ancient dialed and fimplicity, as almoit to raife the deeds they celebrate above all reafonable fufpicion : add to this, the con- ftant tradition of the country, together with two chapels erefted fome centuries ago, in memory of his exploits. The three cantons were fo much offended with the author for throwing any doubt upon the ex- ploits of their antient hero, that they prefented a rcmonftrance to the fovereign council of Berne : and the pamphlet was publicly burnt at Uri. In this inftance their national prejudices {li they really deferve that name) become, in fome mcafure, meritorious and refpcdable. Upon our landing at Fluellen, 1 had an oppor- tunity of obferving that the crofs-bow is flill much ufed in thefe parts, as I faw feveral very young boys, each with that inftrument in his hand. There happened to be a butt at a fmall diftance from the place ; and I gave them to underftand, that thofe who hit the mark Ihould receive a penny • As Saxo Grnmmarlcus Is an aurhor but little known, and ihs paflage in queftion i> exceedingly curious ; ihe reader will find it inferred nearly at the end of this volume. It is bur jaaice to add, that f^me perfon5 queftion the amhcniiciiy oi this paflage, and fuppofe ic :o be fpurious. Altdorf. 24 1 penny for thu'r dexterity. Upon this intima- tipn, three boys took aim fuccefliveiy, two of whom touched the very center of the butt, and obtained the prize accordingly: but, the third milling, I made him (hoot till he hit the mark i formed '"^^ "^ ^^'^^ '"^'^' ^^ ""^ '^"^''' P^""* From Fluellen we walked to Altdorf, the capi- tal burgh of the canton of Uri, fituated in a narrow vale almoft entirely furrounded by llu. pendous mountains h contains feveral neat houfes; the tops whereof are covered with large •Itones, m order to prevent the roufs beino- car- ried away by thofc violent hurricanes which are frequent in thefe mountainous countries. When the greateft part of Helvetia was fuh- jett to the empire; the inhabitants of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, had long enjoyed the moft cour-deraUe privileges, particularly the right ol bcng governed by their own maKif- trates : the clergy and many ol the nobl.rs, in- deed, had fiefs and fubjecls in thofc u-.UQiUc territories ; but the bulk of the peupJe formea ftveral communities almoft totally independent. i)uring the twelfth century, various dilputcs between thefe three cantons and the cmpcr-is, united them more firmly than ever ; and they were accuftomed, every ten years, to renew for- mally their alliance. Such was iheir iltuatiou at the death of Frederic II. in 1250. From this period, or foon afterwards, commences the in- terregnum in the empire : during which time of anarchy and confufion, the nobles and bilhoi.s endeavouring to extend their power, and to ci'- croach upon the privileges of the people ; Uri. ^«^- '• R Schwcit;^; 242 LETTER 25' Helvetic Revolution. 243 1 1 Schweitz, and Underwaldcn, put themfelves un- der the protedion of Rhodolph of Hapfburgh, who, in 1273, being cholen emperor, terminated the interregnum. Rhodolph received a fmall revenue from thefe cantons, and appointed a governor, who had cognizance in all criminal caufes: the rights, however, and privileges of the people were exprefsly referved. Rhodolph, fome time after his accefTion to the imperial throne, liftened to the ambitious fchemes of hi? fon Albert, who was defirous to form Helvetia into a dutchy. For this purpofe the emperor purchafed the domains of feveral abbeys, and other confiderable fiefs in Switzer- land, as well in the canton of Schweitz as in the neighbouring territories. The three cantons, induced by the great increafe of power, which the emperor gained by this acquifition, prudently re- newed their alliance, and obtained a confirmation of their privileges : which, upon the death of Rhodolph, was confirmed by his fucceffor Adol- phus of Naflau. But when Albert was after- wards elefted emperor, he refufed to ratify their rights : and, in order totally to fubdue the people, placed over them two governors, who were guilty of many flagitious afts of tyranny and op- prcllion. Under thefe circumflances Werner de Staf- fach of Schweitz, Walther Furft of Uri, and Arnold de Melchthal of Underwalden, planned the famous revolution, which took place January 13, 130S, and redortd liberty to the three can- tons. "Albert, while he was preparing to attack them, was affaflinated by his nephew John of Hapiburgh. Hapfburgh*. ^ ^n 1 3 1 5, Leopold duke of Auftria • marched againft the confederate cantons, at the head of twenty thoufand troops, and, endeavour- ing to force his way into Schweitz at the ftreights ofMorgarten, received a total defeat from thir- teen hundred Swifs, who were ported upon the mountains. If we may believe contemporary hiftorians, the Swifs loll but fourteen men in this memorable engagement, which infured their independence. In the fame year the three cantons contrafted a perpetual alliance, vjh\c\\ was ratified at Brunnen ; and is the grand foundation of the Helvetic Confederacy. Such ivere the feeble beginnings of a league, fince be- come fo formidable by the acceffion of ten more cantons, and by the additional ftrength of its numerous allies : and it is remarkable, that Switzerland is the only country which, on the one fide, has confined the limits of the German empire ; and, on the other, has fet bounds to the French monarchy, which the latter has never tranfgrefled. The name of Schweitzerland, or Switzerland, which originally comprehended only the three cantons of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, was afterwards extended to all Helvetia. It de- rived that appellation ehher from the canton of Schweitz, as having particularly diflinguiflied it- felf in the revolution of 1308, and alfo at the battle of Morgarten ; qv becaufe the Auflrians called all the inhabitants of thefe mountainous parts, by the general denomination of Schweit- zers. * See Letter 14. R2 Switzerland o 244 LETTER 15. Url and Schweltz. 245 ^'-1 \ Switzerland was the rock on which the Houlc of Auflria fplit, during more than a century. Blinded with refentment againft their former fub- ieds, and anxious to recover their loft domains in thefe parts ; the fcveral dukes led in perfon confiderable armies to fubdue a nation, whofe fpirit was unconquerable ; and to obtain pof- feffion of a country, which, from its fituation, was cafjly defended by a handful of men againft the moft numerous troops. Within the period above-mentioned, they negleSed feveral oppor- tunities of aggrandizing themfelves in other parts; ilnd, flighting what was more feafible, bent their whole efforts to acquire what in its very nature was unattainable. The confequence of this mif- taken policy, was, a continued fuccellion of de- feats, attended with a prodigious expence, and the lofs of their braveft troops : until at length, convinced of their error, they totally relinquiflied an attempt, in which they had expended fo much fruitlefs blood and treafure. But although fe- veral emperors of that Houfe occafionally made alliances with the Swift Clintons ; yet it was not till the treaty of VVeftphalia that their indepen- dence was fully and finally acknowledged, by Ferdinand III. and the whole empire. The government of Uri and Schweitz is en- tirely democratical, and nearly the fame. The fupreme power refides in the people at large, who are divided into feveral communities, from which are chofen the councils of regency. In the Lands -gemeind^ or general afiembly, the Landamman, and the prmcipal magiftrates, are cleded ; and every burgher, at the age of four- teen in the cantons of Uri and Under walden 5 and of of fifteen in Schweitz ; has a right to vote. The councilsof regenc^^ in Uri and Schweitz confiil each of fixty members, and rcM^ at the capital burghs. In this council the executive power is vefted, and from this body the principal magi- ftrates are chofen. Thefe two cantons contain, including their fubjeds, about fifty thoufand fouls, and in cafe of neceffity could furnifh above twelve thoufand militia. AW the Catholic cantons enjoy confider- able fubfidies from France. Every burgher, at the age of fourteen, in Uri, receives annually about fix livres, or five (hillings ; the Landam- man and the magiftrates more in proportion. Ihe canton of Schweitz being for fome time dif- contented with France, withdrew its troops from that fervice : but this year the matter has been accommodated ; and the king pays annually to every male child of a burgher four livres, cora- niericing from the time of his birth. The fame kind of foil, and the fame fort of produftions, are common to the two cantons : the whole country being ru2:ged and moun- tainous, confifts chiefly of pafture, but raifes little corn, and has no vines. We cannot but obferve^ with aftoniftiment, to what a degree of fertility the natives have improved a land, na- turally barren, and for which they fought with as much zeal and intrepidity, as if they contended for the richeft plains of Sicily or Afia Minor. In thefe little democratical (tares, fumptuarv laws are not neceflary ; for, they fcarcely kno\v, even in idea, what luxury is. ' Such indeed u the purity, or (as fome perhaps would call it) the aufterity of morals, wfiich ilill prevails among thcJc; 1^6 LETTER 25. thefe people, as cannot eafily be imagined by the inhabitants of great and opulent cities : and I cannot reflea on that alleaionate patriotifm which fo ftrongly attaches them to their country, without calling to mind that btantiful (^^^^cj^- ticn of the Svvifs peaHmt, in Goldlmith's ira- velicr : " Denr is i/iat fhcd to Kvhich hts foul conforms, " And dear that hill tvh'ch lifts him to the forms : •• And m a chihi ivhen faring founds niolejl, •« Qipgs chfe nnd clofir i9 the mothers breaft ; «» .^0 the loud torrent^ nnd the ivhirhvind's roar, ** But bind him to his mti^e mounl*nm more." Every (lep we now advance is treading, as it were, upon lacrcd ground ; monuments continur ally occurring of ^hofe memorable battles, by which the Swifs refcued themfelves from opprel- iion, and fecured the enjoyment of their invalu- able freedom. I am now indeed in the very center of civil liberty ; would I could add of re- ligious too ! but the 'church of Rome is here ex- ciufively cftabliflied. It muil be acknowledged, however, that this intolerant Spirit is not wholly confmed to the Catholic cantons ; lor, in thofc whcie the Protefrants prevail, Calvinifm is alone admitted : and thus a nation, who prides herlelt upon her freedom, denies the free exercife of re- ligion to everv other fe^ rxcept that which pre- dciuinates. Is not this ilrikiag at the firft prin- ciple, and mod valuable privilege, of genuine liberty ? ' Long as my letter already is, I cannot forbear mentioning a peculiar cultom obferved in fome of thefc democratical ftatcs : every perfon who is * chofen Uri and Scbweitz. 247 chofen for a bailliage, or any lucrative office, is obliged to pay a certain ftipulated fum into the public fund. This praQice is attended with one ill confequence at lead ; as the fuccefsful candi- date is in fome meafure authorifed to ftretch his prerogatives, in order to fwell the profits of his charge. Accordingly it is a general remark, that in the common bailliages the bailifs, appointed by the popular cantons, are more apt to be guilty of cxaftions than thofe of the ariftocratical republics. I am, &c. LETTER 148 LETTER 26, LETTER a6. Canton of VnderwaJden — Sarne—Saxelen — Tomb^ and Characler of NichoJas de Flue—Stantz-^ Engelberg-'-PaJJage over the Sitren JIp to Jlidorf. 1 N S T E A D of proceeding, as in my former lour, from Lucerne to Altciort by water, I made an aprceablc excurfion to Same, Saxelen, ancj J^tantz, in the canton cf Undcrvvalden, vifited the abbev of Eno;elbtn^, and travcrfed the Suren alps to A lidorf. Having difpatchcd my baggage by water to Altdorf, 1 talked, in company with Mr. Meyer, member of the Great Council of Lucerne, thfough a pleafant plain, lying bet4\een Mount IMaie and an oppofite ridge of hills, to Winke, a viila;^e fituated on an inlet of the lake of Lucerne. There I took boat, and rowing acrofs the inlet, dilembarkcd near Alpnach, in- the canton of Un- derwaldcn, Canton of UnderwaJden. 245 derwaldcn, and continued along a foot-way, which winds through enclofures of rich pafture' land, browfed by numerous herds of fine cattle, and prettily checkered with fcactered cottages* Having croffed a fmall river, I arrived at Same, the capital burgh of that divifion of the canton called Oberwalden, wherein the Land-rath, or fupreme court of judicature, afiembles for the purpofe of deciding civil and criminal procefles. This tribunal is compofed of fifty-eight judges, who are chofen by the people, and continue in office for life In criminal affairs of any notori* cty, each of thcfe fifty-cight is empowered to brmg into court two individuals ; and this whole tribunal, thus confiding of a hundred and feven- ty.four members, aflembles in a large open hall in the town-houfe, and paffes final fen- tence. At Same I embarked upon the Aa, and afcending iis ftream, entered the lake of Same : this piece of water, about three miles long, and one and a half broad, is pleafantly enclofed be- tween the -mountains, and its rifing borders arc richly variegated with pallures and trees. I landed at Saxelen, which ftands on its weftern fhore ; a neat village much frequented in thefc parts, as being the native place of the celebrated faint and patriot Nicholas de Flue, to whofc honour a church has been lately erefted at a con- fiderable expence. The interior is ornamented in a pleafing ftyle of architefture. Ten elegant columns of black marble fupport the roof: they are about twenty-four feet in height, and many of them are of a fingle piece. They were hewn out of a quarry in the Melchthal, about nine tjo LETTER 26. Nicholas de Flue. 2JI nine miles from Saxelen, and were dragged from thence by the peafants, who voluntarily per- formed this tafk, which they confidered as an 3d of religious duty : a laborious enterprife, to convey fuch heavy burdens down fteep precipices and over rug^^ed pathlefs rocks, where they could neither be aflifted by horfes or oxen ! Under a glafs-cafe in the midfl of this church, are depofited the bones of this favourite objed of national worfliip, fantaftically ornamented, ac- cording to the Roman Catholic cullom, with gold and precious ftones. His real burial place is flill to be feen in a fmall adjoining chapel : it is a fim- ple grave-ftone, on which his figure is coarfely carved in ftone, the w^ork of the age in which he lived. At a fmall height over this antient mo- nument, is placed another grave-ftone, bearing alfo his figure, executed in later times, lefs rude, but ftill of coarfe workmanfhip. On entering this chapel, I obferved numerous pilgrims of both fexes, who were kneeling before bis tomb, and praying with the greateft fervency. Many, in the ardour of devotion, threw them- fclves between the two grave-ftones, and ftretch- ing themfelves upon the moft antient figure, re- peatedly kiffcd and embraced it. Nicholas de Flue, this objc6l of national en- thufiafra, was born at Saxelen in 1417. De- fccnded from an antient family, he fignalized bimfelf in defence of his country, and particu- larly during the war which the Swifs fupported againft Sigifmond arckduke of Auftria. He was no lefs remarkable for humanity than valour. He remonftrated to his countrymen preparing to pillage and burn the convent of St. Margaret near near Dieffenhofen. He exclaimed : " If God grants you the vi£l:ory over your enemies, ufe it with moderation ; and fpare thofe edifices whicl> are confecrated to him." This remonftrance was attended with effeQ, and the convent was faved from dcftruftion. To the moft excellent quar lities of the heart and underftanding, to great political fagacity he added the exterior graces of figure, dignity of character, and the moft win- ning affability of manners. Raifed by his coun- trymen to feveral high employments in the ftate, he repeatedly declined the office of landamman from motives of delicacy, becaufe he difapproved the principles of the governing party. M length, hurried away by his deteftation of evil, and his zeal for monkiih devotion, according to the fpi- rit of the times, he quitted his family in the fifti- eth year of his age, and retiring from the world, in a fit of gloomy fuperftition turned hermit. The place of his retreat was at Ranft, a few miles from Saxelen ; there he built an hermitage and a fmall chapel, and praftifed all the feverities required by that aufterc mode of life with the ftriSeft ob- fervance. But the flame of patriotifm, although fmother- cd in his breaft by an ill-direded zeal for mifta- kcn duties, was not extinguiftied ; and he was the happy inftrument in reftoring Switzerland from the impending horrors of civil difcord. At the conclufion of the war with Charles the Boldj Friburgh and Soleure contrafted an alliance with Zuric, Berne, and Lucerne. This treaty being confidered by Uri, Schweitz, Undcrwalden, Zug, and Glarus, as a breach of the former union, thofc five cantons refufed to receive them. After various '11 LETTER 26. Nicholas de Flue, various dlfputcs and fruitlefs conferences, the de- puties of the eight confederate cantons affembled^ in 1 48 1, at Stantz, in order to comproniife the difl'erences. Both fides, however, were fo heated with mu- tual animofities, that the deputies were on the point of feparating without effeding a reconcili- ation, and civil war appeared inevitable. In this crifis of affairs, de Flue no fooner heard, iivthe depth of his foHtudc, of thofe public diffenfions which threatened a fatal rupture between the confederate cantons, than his patriotifm prevailed over his fuperftition ; and he quitted his unpro- fitable hermitage, in order to exert thofe a(5tive and public virtues, the very lowcfl: of which •fingly outweighs whole years of ufclefs and un- required mortifications. Accordingly this extra- ordinary man, having, thpugh in the 64th year of his age, travelled during the night, arrived at Stantz on the very morning in which the de- puties were preparing for tlieir departure. He earneftly conjured them to remain ; and, having; prevailed upon them once more to affemble, he Jb forcibly reprefented to them the dcilrudive confcquences which would attend their difunion, that they chofe him arbiter of the difpute. By his fole mediation all differences between the con- tending parties were amicably adjuited -, and Fri- burgh and Soleure were, by his advice, inftantly received into the Helvetic Confederacy : fuch was the effe£t of his perfuafive and conciliatory elo- quence ! Having thus happily compofed the public diffenfions, he returned to his hermitage, where he died, 1487, in the 70th year of his acre, re^rretted and clleemed by all Switzerland. Such ^s$ (( €C it Such a general opinion of his extreme piety pre- vailed among his contemporaries, that the bigo- try of thofe times afcribed to him an exemptioa from the common wants of humanity. In the regifler of the church of Saxelen, the following notice is infcribed for 1485, the year antecedent to his death. « In 1417, Nicholas " de Flue, a faint, was born in the parifii of " Saxelen ; who afterwards retired into a defert « called Ranft, where God fuftained him during " eighteen years, without eating or drinking for a long time, namely when this was written ; and he i^ now in good eftate, and holy life." On his tomb Is infcribed the following epitaph : " Nicholas de Flue quitted his wife and children *| to go into the defert : he ferved God nineteen " years and a half without takins: any fuftenance* " fie died 1487." ^ This frivolous epitaph ftrongly marks the bi- gotted fpirit of that dark age in which it was compofed: the narrow-minded author, totally ov'erlooking the patriot in the hermit, faw no- thing fo truly meritorious in the life of the de- cealed, as his having fupprelled thofe focial and public energies which dignify human nature, in order to pradtife the debafing aufteritics of a fu- ^^ //?"^ i*eligionift.— He ought to have infcrib- ed, « fo the memory of Nicholas de Flue, wha ^^"^^^ Ws hermitage to appear in the world ; who reltored peace and harmony to the republics ot Switzerland, and who ferved God by fervm? his country.'* * From Saxelen we intended to havevifited Ranft, de Flue's hermitage, and from thence to have proceeded. If '#1 V I: 'li'i 254 LETTER 26. Stantz. 2SS proceeded down the Melchthal and over the mountains to Engelberg ; but as the evening was already beginning to clofe, we durfl: not venture along 'fo difficult a paffage, which would have empicyed us at leaft hvc hours ; we thought it, therefore mod prudent to continue our route towards Stantz. We followed the footpaths, which wind agreeably, fometimes through forefts, fonietimcs over the fields and meadows ; and pafled through a fertile but wilder and more ro- mantic part of the canton, than that which we traverfcd in the morning. We continued for fome way at the foot of the Stantzberg, crofled a fmall plain that was formerly a lake, in which ftaples for mooring veffels are occafionally dif- covercd ; and, in about three hours after our de- parture from Saxelen, arrived at Stantz, in the dufk of the evening. About three m.iles from Stantz is a fmall wood called the Kern-wald^ which we paffed through in our route from Saxelen ; it would not have been worthy of mention, if it did not feparate the can- ton into two divifions, called * Oberwald and Underpaid. Formerly the whole canton was under the fame general adminiftration ; but the inhabitants of the two diftrifts feparating upon fome difpute, have fince formed two republics, and have each their lands -gemeindy or general affembly, their landamman, and council of re- gency : for the management of external aftairs, there is a joint-council, chofen equally by the two divifions ; at the Helvetic Diet they fend but « • Above the wood, and Below the wood j *wald In Ger- q;ian fignifying a wood. but one deputy, and regulate their vote by mu- tual confent. Stantz is the feat of civil and criminal judica- ture ; and it is worthy of remark, that every male of the age of thirty is permitted to give hi* vote for the acquittance or condemnation of a criminal. Stantz, the capital of Underwalden, is fituated in a beautiful plain of paflure, about two or three miles in breadth, at the foot of the Stantz- berg, and at a little diftance from the lake of Lucerne. The town and environs, which are delightfully fprinkled with numerous cottages, are, for fo fmall a place, extremely populous, comprifmg, perhaps, not lefs than five thoufand fouls.^ The church is a tolerably handionie building, and is decorated in the infide with ten black marble pillars of large dimenfions, but not fo beautiful as thofe at Saxelen. The women in thefe parts drefs their heads in a fmgular man- ner, and extremely unbecoming : they wear black-beaver cocked hats, fimilar to thofe of the men, with black ears to their caps, which almoll conceal their hair. The next morning the abbot of Engelberg, having been previoufly informed of our intended vifit, politely fent horfes to Stantz ; and we rode through a fertile valley, enclofed between the Stantzberg and a chain of hills, until we arrived at Graffen-ort, a fmall villa belonging to the abbot, about two leagues from Stantz. Here we began to afcend along a road winding by the fide of t fteep precipice, and through " unfunned for efts'' of beech intermingled with poplar, mountainafh, Spanifn chefnuts, and pinte-, ths torrent Aa impetuoufly illi « ,..*.- ^ -.» ^S6 LETTER 26. impctuoufly foaming in a ftony channel, and forming a fttcceffion of catarads. The wild hor- rors of the circumjacent rocks, the inceffant roaring of the waters, and the folitary gloom of the foreft, reminded me of Gray's beautiful Ode on the Grande Chartreufe, in which he dcfcribes (imilar fcenes with a fublimity and truth which every perfon of taftc, who travels through thefe magnificent regions, muft feel and admire. Per in'vias rupes^ fera per j'fg^, CIi»'e were to fupper ; \'\^?^'l^ ^^aU thunder-ftorm, fuddeily ftruck with an awi ^^^ uhich, though it <="">; "f ^,VoX^° '^' ''• °^' f o?Sb:;/wt PrSd'oS the top of fh\"t atf b7'a choi^of ange. -h= - iecration of the convent ; ye P^°f ""J^^^ound- fublhne effca, when re-echoed by the lurrou '"^r'abbt'of this convent, chofen by a ma- miles in circumfe ence, ^^^ ^^ Under- '"Men m'niy h bitalle pan'of this^diftrict walden. mc oiuy the abbev s lituated, i, the fmall plain m -*" Jj^^J^^^^ ,emain- ,hat contains fifteenjundredjou^.^^ ^"^rrr";'tre'a to numerous herds of cattle. The abbot to whom wc were indebted for fo Ihe aDDoi, lu f^ndifrar Sa tzman, a na- ^.^'" A 'SS::.^^^^^^^ elevation to his tive of 1;?^^^^"',^^ a kind and indulgent mafter: /^.^^^^^^^^ u^, excited them to in- poor .nd indolent^he ^as xc ^^^ ^^^^ duftry ; ^^^'^^ ^ ^hen aeviculture is fufpended, winter months, ^^hen^ ""f'^^a^ ^hich he im- he employs them ^^ ^^^^^^^^ ports from Italy. He poflcUes very ^^^^^^^ power, which renders him nearly abfolute. In all criminal cafes he arrefts and imprifons ; appoints the perfon who examines ; can order, if he thinks it neceflary, the inflidion of torture ; and can pardon or mitigate the fentence given by the tribunal of the country, called landfgericht. In civil caufes his influence is very confiderable ; he appoints, from twelve candidates feleded by the people, the feven judges, who, in conjunc- tion with the thalamman 2iXn\Ji at halter^ form the above-mentioned landfg'richt^ which decides in the firft refort : he can alfo difplace them if he pleafes ; and abfolutely nominates all the judges of the geiftlichen-gericht^ or ecclefiaftical court, which receives appeals from the decifions of the former tribunal. His power is reftrifted in the following inflances. If he is engaged in a law- fuit with an individual, the award of the country tribunal is final ; and if with the whole com- munity, the queftion is decided by the four cantons of Lucerne, Uri, Schweitz, and Under- w^alden. His revenues amount to about ^.5000; and are derived partly from tythes of certain eftates in the free bailliagcs of Switzerland, from a few feudal rights, but principally from the exporta- tion of cheefes. Befide thofe which are made on the paftures belonging to the abbey, he purchafes others from the peafants of his little territory, and difpcfes of the whole on his own account. About eighteen hundred cows, including thofe which are the property of the convent, are pof- feifed by the natives of Engelberg, and annually iupply cream for about 10,000 cheefes,- each weighing from 2 c to 50 pounds, and felling, on 32 I ^M 26o LETTER 26. ,1 ♦ an average, for fifteen ilorins, or one pound five ftiiUines per hundred weight ; and it may be Sulated'that the abbot circulates annually to the value of £.4000. 1*^^^^^^""^' •i'^^!';: cannot be confidcred as his own P"vate pro perty ; for he pays the current expences of the ■"''several inelTeaual expeditions hare been made towards attaining the fummit « Moun Tuhs the moft elevated mountain m thefe parts, anrt irhaps fcarcely inferior to the Schreckhorn S jungfrauhorn : it was for a long time con- Mered a^s inacceflible; but, as tradition reported hat in the year 1739. three ."'en had afcended it Mr. Freygrabend, a native of Engelberg, a;d phyfician to the abbot, a few days after my departure from the convent, fucceeded m a fimi- lar attempt The following account of this ex- pedition is extraaed from a German letter wri- ten by the phyfician himfelf to a friend at Lu- « Early in the morning on the 14th of Sep- tember, the weather being fine and clear, I let out with eleven companions, among whom were terom Dopier and Conrad Stocher, two fnars of the convent. About two in the morning, after afcending through Gerfchne, and Unter and Ober-laub, we reached, at break of day, the fummit of the Laubcrgrat. Here we en- joyed a fine view over the canton of Under- walden, the lake and canton of Lu^^^^'f^ free baiUiages of Switzerland, and the can- ton of Zug. Having taken fome refrefhment, and repofcd ourfelvcs a quarter of an hour, we put on our crampons, and purfued our route ^ eager. Mount Titlis. 26; eager, like the giants of old, to Icale the fteep fides of Mount Faulblatten. Wc continued for about an hour along the piked ridge of this mountain, tottering by the fide of tremendous precipices, and twice climbing an afcent almoft perpendicular. We could not obferve any trace of the fmalleft vegetation. Having gained the highefl point of the Faulblatten, we arrived at a glacier, whic'i being fortunarely covered with frefh fnovv, rendered the ice lefs flipper jr than ufual. " Hitherto our courfe had been attended with fome danger, but from hence we afcended, and reached, with little difficulty, the top of the Titlis, called NoIIen. But here we were obliged to crofs a deep chafm, and to mount the fides of the ice, which were as perpendicular as a wall, by forming fteps for our feet with the iron foikes of our poles : below us was a valley of ice about fixteen miles in length, defcending rapidly to- wards Oberhafli. It was now about ten in the morning, and the fun was extremely bright. Having wall^ed a few paces, the profpeft was on all fides open and unbounded. I his fublime, yet dreary fcene, though it furpaffes all defcrip. tion, made an impreffion on my mind which I (hall never forget. " Here the painter and poet would find ample and endlefs employment, if the colours of the former and the conceptions of the latter could refift the effeds of the extreme cold. The firft objefts which caught our attention, were the alps of the Vallais, Btrne, and Savoy, with their glaciers and vallies of ice, a majeltic and tremendous fcene. Among numerous moun- tains .it 262 LETTER 26. i'iri »w" S ti.. Schrcckhora, W.nerho™. borders of Al&ce and S«,b,a. "j^f «';» helow us wc noticed the abbey , anu w he found of feveral mortars, which the abbo t ordered to be fired as a fignal that we were alio frenbv means of a fmall telefcope, 1 ob erved he fire an" fmoke ; and five minutes elapfed before the lound reached us, not in a. Rrait dtrec . „ bi.t re-echoed between the furrounding Ss.' Wrhtd Fopofed to kindle a fi. an ,^ l^t nlT foine hand-grenade, but the coia pre en d us f 1 ftriking fire. Not being able to furTort s extremity n?ore than three quarters ot n hour although the fun (lione very bright, and ie ke^'otl^lves in continued motion, we placed a black flag on the higheft pmnt. .. We were as fortunate in ^^f^f >"? J '^^ n^nnntine We came to the Under-litus at 27 eleven ; to the Laub-grat at one rS? 'S 1 aftUon. We felt no^U.r in- [Pqfage to Altdorf. 265 convenience from this expedition, tlian that our faces were fwelled, and our (kins peeled, from the refleftion of the fun ; and that for fome hours after my returning to Engelberg, I loft mv fight and my hearing, both which however I foon re- covered. Undoubtedly the Titlis is the higheft mountain in Switzerland, excepting Mont-Blanc, to which it is not much inferior.*' It is to be regretted, that this expedition was only a mere objed of curiofity ; and that the in- genious phyfician carried with him neither a ther- mometer nor a barometer. His aflertion that the I'itlis is higher than any mountain in Swit- zerland, will, for this reafon, and without fur- ther proofs, admit of much doubt ; and its eleva- tion, though very confiderable, muft be greatly inferior to that of Mont-Blanc 5 as will appear by confidering that the expedition from the plain of Engelberg to the top of the Titlis was performed in eight hours ; whereas Dr. Paccard and James Balma employed fifteen in attaining the fummit of Mont-Blanc ; and the place from which they took their departure, is probably much higher above the level of the fea than the valley of En- gelberg. Auguft 25. Travellers, in going from Engelberg to Alt- dorf, ufually return to Stantz or Buochs, embark on the lake of Lucerne, and proceed the reft of the way by water ; but as I had already vifited thofe places, I preferred following the route acrofs the mountains. The morning being ob- fcure and rainy, we were detained till nine o'clock, when ^H S" «64 LETTER 26. Pafflige to Altihrf. 25j when the weatlier clearing up I fet out, m com- pany xvith Meff.s. Balthazar and Meyer, ot i.u- cernc. PalTmg through the plain of tijge beg, we admired, on our left a fine water al, ^vhIch precipitates itfelf from mount hngtl, »"'»'" about a league arrived at a cottage belonging to the abbey, vvhere we found two pealants em. ployed in making cheefes, and where we regalea ourfelves with fome excellent creanv troni this point we mounted gently by t^e fide ot the Aa, leaving on our right the high Suren alps, xvhke pointed tops occafionally burft forth am.d the clouds and vapours; about a mile from the cottage we quitted the abbot's horfes, walfcea up a gradual afcent, paffed a fuperb "taraft of the Aa, and reached a chapel noted in thelc pans for a fmall bell, which, according to tram- tion, was the gift of a French traveller. Near this chapel we obferved a hut, which, is in tne canton of Uri, and from thence the afcent wa. ftecper, but not difficult ; we croffed many dritt. of fnow, and were incommoded by a keen wind and frequent Ihowers of fleet, hail, and ram. At length, in about four hours after our depar ure from the abbey, we reached a crofs planted on the higheft point ; from which elevation wc fi-ould have enjoyed a moft lupcrb view, greatly admired by travtllers, on one fide tow-ards Uri and the chain of the St. Gothard, and on the other towards Engelberg and the lake of Lu- cerne, if the weather had not totally obfcurcd the profpcd. l-rem this point the Titlis is much Extolled for its beautiful and majeaic appearance. From hence we defcended the Enkeberg into a moll barren region, amid a harveft of pointed rocks, and over numerous drifts of fnow, and fiiHen fragments of fione, intermixed with fmall patches ot rulfet herbage, which contributed to render the fcene (till more dreary. Our defcent along a bare flippery rock of ilate, or in the beds of torrents, or over large malTcs of ice and fnow, continued above an hour and an half, when we obforved feveral huts lying in a fmall plain- Fr6m their firft appearance we concluded that we (liould prefently reach them, but the preci? pices were fo fteep, the paths fo rugged, and the diftance fo much greater than we at firfl: imagin- ed, that it employed us above an hour and an half. The little valley, in which thefe huts are iitu- ated, is called Wald-nacht AJp^ contains a fmall quantity of uiKlerwood, and feeds a hundred and thirty-three cows, befide a few fheep, goats, and hogs. The peafants employed in tending the cattle and making cheefe, ufually arrive on the 2cth of June, and remain about a hundred days : the owner of the hut in which we dried our clothes, makes every day, during that period, two cheefes of twenty-five pounds each, from the milk of eighteen cows. Having taken fome re- frelhment, and recovered our fatigue, we conti- nued along the valley, through fome groves of poplars and firs, and at its furthefl extremity we came to a fmgle cottage feated on an eminence, the firft houfe on this fide which is habitable in winter. A little further we had a profpect of the town and environs of Altdorf ; the fertile vale of Schackeren, which, though a very (teep afcent, yet from this elevation feemed a level plain ; the lake of Uri, fcarccly vifible, which looked like ^ fmall 366 LETTER 16. fmall rivulet ; and the diftant mountains reaching beyond the St. Gothard. The defcent through rich fields and pafturcs, was cxtrerncly ftcep and tedious, as the grafs was "lendercd fl.ppery by the rain ; and we did not arrive at Altdorf nil fcven in the evening, wet and exceedingly fatigued but much pleafed with our expedition. Ihw paffasxe from Engelberg to Altdorf is eftimated kt feven leagues. A chafeur may perform urn four hours ; a traveller accuaomed to mountains in fix ; and perfon unufed to fuch fatigue, v/iU require eight or ten hours. LETTER Valley ef Schoelknen, *67 LETTER 27* Valley of Schoeltcnen— Devil's Bridge -Valley of Urferen— Valley and Mountain of St. Gothard — Sources of the Tefino and Reufs. s St. Gothard, Auguft 9. * Switzerland is a moft delightful country, and merits the particular obfervation of the traveller, as well for the diverfity of the fcveral Eovernments, as for the wonderful beauties ot nature : hut the impofitions of the innkeepers, and the difficulty of procuring horfes », ^"^^.^^J^ • I would recommend to all travellers, who traverfe the canton of U-.i in order to vif.t the alps, ^^''^er to h.re horfes at Lucerne, or to befpeak them againft their arnv** at Alt- dorf. Ifwe fortunately had not taken the latter precaution, we (liould have found no lefs difficulty in procuring horfes m ,78s, than in 1776; notwithftanding all the good omcti oi our landlord at the Black Lion ; who, knowmg that I was the author of Letters on Swi.zcrland. was extremely anxious w 263 LETTER 27. vhabic taxes for the enjoyment of thefe its de-, lights. Thefe little inconveniences, however, fltould be borne with patience and good-hun.our ; jior will I trouble you with any fpknetic com- plaints of thofe unpleafant circumllances wtnco muft occur to ail travellers. . We quitted Ahdorf aittr dinner, having with difliculty hired two horfes, befide one for the bapqage; we procured, however, another upon ,he road; fo 'that we got on tolerably we 1. We pafled at firft through a fertile plain ot pal- ture, in which the inhabitants uere employed m mowing the fecond crop of hay ; and about nine miles from AUdorf, we began afcending. Ihe road winds continually along the fteep fides ot the mountains ; and the Reufs in many places entirely fills up the bottom of the valley, which is very narrow : that river fometimes appeared federal hundred yards below us ; here ruihing a conf.derable way through a foreft of pmes ; there falling in cafcades, and lofing itfelf in 4he valley. We paired it feveral times, over bridges ot a lin- c\c arch, and behind it tumbling under our teet, in channels which it had forced through the iolid rock; innumerable torrents roarmg down the . fides of the mountains ; which v.ere fometimes '■ bare, fometimes finely wooded, with here and there foine fantallic trees clothing the fides ot wipe awav certai>. afpe-llons which, in 'he beginmng of this lerier fceni to glance at his native town. The two Mf. Uit- fcrds.' when we ...et at Engelbcrg, and who. to our great fatu- le:xo«, accompanied us in our tour as far as Geneva, were ..^tiged to puvfue their journey on foot, not be'ng able to pro- r ^r?n.ore than one hp.fe, which wa» appropriated to their baggage. Valley cf SchocHeneit. 269 the precipice, and half obf<:"'->"Stbe river fro tn our view. The darknefs and folitude of the forefts ; the occ.fional livelinefs and,variety of the verdure; imtnenfe fragments of rock blended with enormous maifes of ice ; rocks of an afto- nilhing height piled upon one another, and (hut- ting in the yale;-ruch are the fubhme and magnificent fcenes with which this romantic country abounds. • , Near Wafen, is the valley of Meyen ; the torrent that dafties through it, and falls into the Reufs, forms a ferifs of the moft fuperb cataraas, which the traveller may enjoy by venturing to the edge of the precipice, and fupportmg himldt againft an impending pine, that overlooks the ^ Ve fct out this morning early from Wafen, a fmall village where we paffed the mght ; and cominued advancing for fome way on a rugged afcent, through the fame wild and beautiful traft of country, which I have juR attempted to de- fcribe. We could fcarcely walk a hundred yards without eroding feveral torrents, that rolled with violence from the tops of the mountains. lhi» being one of the great paffages into Italy, we met many pack-horfes laden with merchandife : and as the road in particular parts is very narrow, it required fome dexterity in the horfes to pafs one another without joftling. Thefe roads, impend- ing over precipices, cannot fail of infpiring terror to thofe travellers, who are unaccuaotned to them ; and more particularly as the mules aad horfes do not keep in the middle of the track, but continue eroding from the fide of the moun- tain towards the edge of an abyfs, then turn adant abruptly j iJO I. ]? i' T E R '^7- Valley of Urferen, 271 abruptly ; thus forming, if I may fo exprefs ruy- Icfs narrow part of the valley : *e Jde of the ,nouutains .ere occafion y " e«ed wU^ ^.^,^ '""T '\ '^''Scon nu n, toafcend, the country ES^v2 Scnly Changing, became .ore uL.\^^iiv4 j^r, ..f • there were no tracer .viid -^d P-feaiy af ^^^^ ,,,,, , a^bbed ie'- 'the rocks were bare, craggy, and impend- TgV S Se leaft fign of any habuat.on ; and ^^\t;!dy^h^;:Sn^^c£^^^^^^^^ Trthe Reufs which here forms a confiderablc -^rfa dtthe ^-^^ttSS. and over immenfe *^^g'?/'^*l°i^V bridge is called T'rrV";^ the Devils b'dge. As we •Teufels'bruck, or tne iJcvuo , J; . <> „,= ftood updh the bridge admrnng the cataraft, ^^e .ere cf ered -^J^^Jf ,;l?;f " o„rderabi: iver thro..ng up he ^P-J^^^^^ ,f horror, of Schthofe who have not been fpedators, can form no idea : they defy the reprefentat.ons of painting or poetry *. . Mary traveller, have Wen dlf.ppoJntcd on xU /r^ view nf the Devil', bridge. It ought therefore .0 be 7^™;M- of the ijevii. s ,, fjifficuk execution, is a triHmg .hat the bridge itfelf, 'hough *>' S« i17.erla.1d ; objea, and rot ^'^ ^^^^^^Z^^lc'J^^^^^^ attoniite and and that it is the wild and majeiiicitcuci » cxalrs the beholder. -^^^ Not far from this defolate landfcapc, the road led us into the Urner-loch, a fubterraneous paf- fage cut through a rock of granite*, which opened at the oppofitc entrance into the ferene and cul- tivated valley of Urferen : the objeds that pre- fented themfelves were, a village backed by a high mountain, on the fides of which was a wood of pines ; peafants at work in the fields ; cattle feeding in the meadows ; and the river, which lately dafhed over rude fragments of rock in a continual cataraft, now flowed filently and fmoothly ; while the fun, which had been hidden from us in the deep valley, here (hone forth in • its full fplendour- In general there is a regular gradation from extreme wildnefs to high cultiva- tion ; but here the tranficion was abrupt, and the change inftantaneous : it was like the lifting up of a curtain, and had all the appearance of en- chantment, In this valley are four villages, Urferen, Ho- pital, Realp, and Zundorf ; forming a fmall re- public under the protedion of Uri, The tern- tory of this little commonwealth is about nine miles in length and two in breadth, and contains about thirteen hundred fouls. The people eleft, in their general aflembly, their Talamman or chief, as aifo fome other magiftrates : and there is a permanent council of fifteen members, who affemble in each of the different diftrias. The inhabitants enjoy great privileges ; but are not * This paffige was hollowed in 1707, bv Peter Moretini, a native of Vai-Maggia, at the expence of the inhabitants in the valley of Urferen. It is nine feet in breadth, ten in height, and two hundred and twenty in length. abfolutely . - I. ■ ¥ \ I 7* L E T T E R abfolutely independent: f<'\''' .'}''\'^^''f. appeal lies from their courts of jufticc to Altdort , and in criminal proceedings, two deputies troni the government of Uri are prcfent at the trial, and deliver to the judges of tlie valley the opi- nion of the council of Altdorf. , Notwithftanding the confiderable elevation of this vallev, and the coldnefs of the air even at this fcafon of the year, it produces -;^<^<=^^^"' Pf[' ture. The only wood therein, is the fmall planta- tion of pines above the village ot Urferen, which is nreferved with uncommon care and reverence, and a fmall quantity of under-wood and ftubbed v^illows, that feather the banks of the Reufs. In the adiacent country there are feveral mines of crvflal ; of which a confiderable quantity is ex- ported. The language of the country is a kind S provincial German, but almoa every perfon I'neaks Italian. „ , . r i The valley of Urfcrcn is a fmall plain furround- ed by hkh mountains, covered with pafture to a confiderable height, whofe tops are barren rocks, L many parts capped with fnow. Near the mid- die of this beautiful plain we turned to the lett, and entered the valley of St. Gothard, fi led with the ruins of broken mountains; the Reufs, a molt rapid and vehement torrent, burfting through it ; on each fide, immenfe (battered blocks of gra- nite, of a beautiful greyifli colour (and of which the fummits of thefc alps are compofed) con- fufedly piled together. i, . r^ ^\\A The valley of St. Gothard, though not fo wild as that of Schoellcnen, is yet exceedingly dreary. It docs not contain a fmglc (bed, or produce a St. Gothard. «73 fingic tree ; and the fides of the mountains arc barely fprinkled with fhort herbage. The extra- mity is clofed by the ftill ruder and naked rocks of the Feudo, fupporting in its hollows vaft maffes of fnow, while the fuperb glacier of the Locendro towers above the adjacent heights. It is about two leagues from Urferen to this place ; but the road, confidering the wiggednefs of the rocks and the ftecpncfs of the afcent, is not in- commodious : it is from nine to twelve feet broad ; and is almoft as well paved as the ftreets of London. We are now lodged at a houfe inhabited by two Italian friars from the convent of Capuchins at Milan, who receive all ftrangers that pafs through thefe inhofpitable regions. One of the friars is abfent, fo that I am in poffefSon of his bedchamber : it is a fnug little room, where a man may fleep very well without being an an- chorite ; and which, after the fatigues of our journey, I enjoy with a fatisfaftion much too fcnfible to envy the luxury of a palace. Our hoft has juft fupplied us with a dinner, confiding of delicious trout, with which the neighbouring lake of Locendro abounds, eggs, and milk, to- gether with excellent butter and checfe ; both made in this dreary fpot. Uponour arrival we were rejoiced to findagood fire; the weather being fo exceedingly cold, that I, who was only clad in a thin camlet coat, en- tered the houfe half frozen. It is fingular to find, at the diftance of only a day's journey, fuch a difference in the climate : the air is ab- folutely in a freezing (late ; and I juft now pafTed Vol. L T a boy » h IP m ^74 LETTER ^7- S/. Qothard. VS a boy at work, who was blowing his fingers to iZLm. H the cold is fo Piera^^^^ „,ida offummcr, h^w intolerable muR tpro^^^ n necembcr ? The fnow begins to fall the lat- ur end of September ; and the lakes about this fpot are frozen during eight months m the ^Tam iyft returned from vifiting the fources of the So and L Reufs ; -^ich "fe ^^^^^^^^^^^^ (hort diftance of each other. The Tctoo ha. three principal fources in the chain of the St. rotha?d The firft is a fpring which nfes to- Sds the bottom of the Profa and is enurdy Covered with frozen fnow, or, when that is nielt- 3 ^vithTallen fragments of rock, through which it tr Okies in numerous currents, that unite and LVlp to form a fmall lake : ^^m th^^^^^^^^^^^ water it communicates with two other lakes, ana iffues in a more confiderable torrent. '^ The lake of La Sella, in another part of the eaftern chain, fuppUes the fecond fource; and the Sfrd is furnifl.ed by the fnows of Mount teudo. Thcfe three fources uniting with another branch that flows from the Furca through the vaU^^^ Bedreto, form one great torrent, which takes U. courfe towards the fouth, enters the lake ot Locarno, and traverfmg part of the Milanele '^^t "fot r^of -the Reufs is the lake of Lo. cendro, an oblong piece of -ater^abou^^^^^ miles in circumference, which is embofomed be nveen the mountains of Petina and Locendro, irdTs almoft entirely fupijied by the .mmen^^ glaciers which crown the fummit of the Locen- dro. The ftream ilTuing from this lake ruflies down the valley of St. Gothard, and joining in the vale of Urfcrcn the two branches which come from the Furca on one fide, and from the Grifon mountains on the other, flows towards the north into the lake of Lucerne, and from thence throws itfelf into the Aar. In allufion to the oppofite courfes of the Te- fmo and the Reufs, M. de Bouflfliers faid, that from the top of the St. Gothard, a man might fpit into the ocean and the Mediterranean. Within a day's journey is the fource of the Rhine in the Grifons ; and about the diftance of three leagues, that of the Rhone in the Furca : which mountain we fhall pafs to-morrow. Wc are ftill furrounded by very high, rugged rocks, and inaccefllble glaciers ; fo that our view is much confined : and though I walked above a league towards Italy, in hopes of enjoying aa extenfive profpeft over that delightful country, yet I could obferve nothing but rocks, precipices, and torrents. I am at this inftant near * feven thoufand feet perpendicular above the level of the fea : no in- confiderable height, moft certainly. Neverthe- lefs, if I gave credit to thofe, who aflTert, that this mountain is the loftieft point of Europe, I {hould raife myfelf in idea above twice as high : but I have reafon to think, that this opinion is founded upon falfe calculations. Mikeli, who xneafured the principal mountains of Switzer- • According to Mr. de Sauflure, the fpot upon which the houfe of the Capuchin friars is built, is i,o6i French loifes above the fea. T Z land. ayfi LETTER a;- St. Gothard. 277 land but who is very inaccurate in Ws calcuja- b';, confiders the St Gothard as the Ingheft and he eftimates its elevation above the fea as eaual to 17,600 feet. But the truth is, that, fo S f om being of that height, it is by no means the hSeft ground of Switzerland ; and there is probably not one mountain, cither in Europe, Sfia o? Africa, of that altitude. According to it'raTpfiffer.'the fummit of the St. Gothard ?ifes above the fea 9,075 fe^* = =»" ''Tnvn.rTft • fiderably lefs than that of iEtna and Icnerift . and ftiU more inferior to feveral mountains m the great chain of alps, to which we arc bending our courfe. P O S T S C R I P T. Auguft 17^5. On my entrance into the little plain in which the friar's houfe is fituated, although the air was exceedingly keen, I did not experience that Srcing cold which I felt in .776 : but the day las fine, and the fun Ihonc unc oudcd. When we arrived at the houfe, the friar was faymg mafs to an audience of about twenty pcrfoiis ; manv of whom defcend from the neighbouring »lps, where they are tending cattle, to divine fer- vice on Sundays and feftivals. At the conclulion, of mafs, the friar, whofc name is Francis, immedi- atelv recolleaed, and received me with great fatis- fadion. He is well known to all travellers that pafs this way, having already inhabited this dreary Jpot above twenty years. Since my laft expedition, he has confiderably enlarged his houfe, and ren- dered it extremely commodious. It contains at prefent, befide feveral fitting-rooms, kitchens, and one apartment for the family, nine fmall but neat bedchambers appropriated to travellers. The expence of this addition has already amount- ed to ^-300, part of which he coUeSed in va- rious diftrifts of Switzerland ; and an equal fum is required to difcharge the prefent debts, and to make the further neceffary improvements ; which fum he intends to procure by another collec- tion. Friar Francis obligingly accompanied me about the environs, and favoured me with the follow- ing particulars, in addition to my former ac- count. The chain of mountains, which immediately furround this place, takes the general appellation of St. Gothard ; and its particular parts are called by different names ; of which the principal are, the Salla, Profa, and Surecha, to the ea(t ; the Fcudo, the Petina, and the Locendro, to the weft ; to the north, the Urfino; and to the fouth, the ridge of naked and piked rocks of the Val- Maggia. Of thefe the Feudo is the moft ele- vated : its highcft point rifes above 2,000 feet above the plain in which ftands the friar's houfe, and requires three hours to reach it. There arc fix paftures on the neighbouring licights ; on which arc fed two hundred cows, a hundred and fifty goats, and thirty horfes. On r 1, 'i i 278 L E T T E R «7- St. GtJthard* On examining, at mid-day, R^^""*";,*^ *"" mometer, placed in the (hade m a northern af- curyftoodat6 -i, above freezing pomt, or 46 of Fahrenheit, although the northern wmd was exceedingly keen, and, if I had judged from my own fedings, I (hould have concluded that the air was in a freezing Hate. R,varia . About four years ago, the eledor of Bavaria fent to ihe friar feveral barometers, thermonie- ters, and other meteorological mftruments, which has enabled him to note the variations ot the at- moire, and to form a feries of ob ervations, of which he favoured me with the following re- ^"^In the moft extreme cold he ever experienced in thefc parts, the mercury in Reaumur s ther- inometer^fell to 19 degrees below freezing pomt, or 10 of Fahrcnheir. In 1784. Greateft heat on the 13th of Sep- tcmber it flood at 13, -^.(^'U^^i'if Greateft cold at^i?, or-8^ of Fahrenheit. M- de Luc's barometer never role higher than — «2. 3. 1. or fai lower than — 20. 9- . 9- ^ It appeared from obfervations made in i7»4, that the average ftate of the thermometer and barometer was as follows : Thermometer. Nine in the ) T2> morning, J Mid-day — o — Nine in the \ ^ j afteTDOon, > Barometer. of Reaumur, or 28 of Fahrenheit 21 9 a or 3a — 21 9 3 mes, — or 29i — »» 9 4 279 In the fame year it fnowed during fome part of 118 days ; rained 78 ; cloudy 293 ; tempeft, with hail, 12 ; thunder and lightning 22 ; rain- bow 4. Halos round the fun 2, and round the moon 2. Serene days 87. t-m LETTER In aSo LETTER flS. LETTER 28. Tajfaie and Glacier of the Furca-^Source of the Rhone. Munfter m the Vallals, Auguft 1 1« J Arrived here late yefterday evening ; and fo fatigued that 1 was incapable of writing : but I am this morning quite refreflied with a com- fortable flcep, and in fpirits to continue my jour- naU I took leave of our hod of St. Gothard, after having wiflied him a pleafant winter in that dreary fituation ; and walked alone, for about two leagues, down the valley of St. Gothard. I frequently quit my company, and either go on before, or ftay behind, that I may enjoy uninter- rupted, and with a fort of melancholy pleafure, thefe fublime exhibitions of Nature in her moft awful and tremendous forms. I entered the val- ley of Urferen at Hopital ^ and was again (truck with Valley of Urferen. 281 with the ftrong contrafl: between that cultivated vale and the defolate country I had juft quitted. At the fame time 1 enjoyed a moft fublime view of the high chain that cnclofes the vale of Urferen ; and particularly noticed the towering rocks, which ftand in the country of the Grifons, one of them fupporting on its rugged top a gla- cicr, from which the Rhine takes its rife. We paired through the fmall village of Zundorf ; and ftopped at Realp, to procure fomc re- frclhment, and bait our horfes. From thence we foon arrived at the extremity of the valley of Urferen ; where we began afcending a path fa narrow, fteep, and rugged, that I could not for- bear fufpefting we had miiTed our way, as it fcemed almoft imprafticable for horfes : upon their arrival, however, I mounted, being fatigued with my walk from St. Gothard to Realp. It was a fingle path, up a fteep mountain, where a horfe, with fome dexterity, could juft put one leg before the other : and this path fometimes lay upon the edge of a precipice, very craggy and ftony ; where, if my fteed had happened to ftum- ble, we muft both inevitably have perifhed. But as I knew^he had no more fancy than myfelf to roll down the precipice. I flung the bridle upon his mane, and entruftcd myfelf to his diredion. Nor had I any reafon to repent of my confidence : for, in the bad and dangerous parts, he never once tripped ; where it was fmoother and fafer, indeed, he knew he had a licence to be more carelefs. We came at length to a torrent, which we palled by means of a plank, after liaving got our horfes ! <*' y; 17 ■ a82 LETTER 2i* k„rf„ over »iA t"' S'dcTpVaS'Svt thCT «e arrived at another, ^p' ""° to. than *\fTl; °S«I? rfan np of our lervants ici^cu turning round, f^^'^ ^"^ J" ° ^f the preci- with a panic on the very edge °|^ " / ,j pice, an'd vehemently exdaurungAathe^^^^^^^^^^^^ npirher eet backwards or tor\^c\ras. ^ S wifh fome affiftance, he paffed over • decla. • of thr fame time, that he would take care ne'ver ^ put hTmfelf a ain in a fimilar fituat.on. We now^egained a kind of path but fo ex- ^kfett^ertr;:l^e^r=^^ ^Si r"eVaS'£n-.t rl'JoVtp F^t ■ A n.S of Wh »»«! f°;'«^/t[; pS done above another, to/ "-"»-''• '^l IV,; J tlii V*- '^»"'' petuous Mount Grimfel. 291 petuous torrent- from the neighbouring gla- ciers. While dinner was preparing, I walked by the fide of that river fearching for cryftals ; ^vhich are very common in thefe parts : we found pieces of divers colours, white, black, yellow, and green. Thefe mountains certainly abound alfo in rich veins of gold, and other metals ; a confiderable quantity of gold-duft being found in the bed of the Aar *, and in the various tor- rents. I can conceive nothing more fatal to the interefts of Switzerland, nor more repugnant to the liberties of the people, than to have thefe mines of gold or filver traced and opened. )^A fudden overflow of riches would effedually change and corrupt their manners : and it is an inconteftable truth, that the real power of a country, not ambitious of making conquefts, .is derived lefs from the wealth than from the in- dudry of its fubjedts ; the happinefs of a people, as Well as of an individual, confifl:ing in being contented. What a chaos of mountains are here heaped upon one another ! a dreary, defolate, but fub- lime appearance : it looks like the ruins and wreck of a world. On the Grimfel, Auguft 29, 1786. You will recolle£l that, in 1776, I defcribed the paiTage of the Furca as extremely difScult, and attended with fome danger. But that was my firft effay over the lefs frequented Alps. How U 2 different * It has been fuggefted to me, that no gold-duft is found in the Aar, until it has received the Reichen-bach. 7g^ LETTER ^9 Seurce of the Rhone. =91 different are our fenfations at different interjah f To-day, onmcafuring the lame ground, though l did not'fiud the roalas>.^* a. a W.«^-^r.«^ 1 vet never once difmounted ; but rode with iny Llti"s on Switzerland in my hand occaf.ona% making notes and obfervat.ons : ' "^"ft; ^^^^ ever, be confeffed, that m ...any P''"^: j'^f" J feTnV nath along the crags and impending preci- pi«s K^ctcely obviou^ tny iituati.n - not ?ery favourable ^J ---"/"XS of immedi- Frnm the top ot the rurca, iiin.ca»a atelyTefcendiJg and purfuing the fame road which Hollowed in 1776, ^efentour horfes tor- wa ds and defcended the Gallebcrg to the upper ;" :? the glacier of the Furca : f-m thence we fooked down upon the Vallais ^"^ f «Jf ^"^^t flowing through it, as upon » /™f ."Hj^, tered Sy a «ll ; above and -^^^^^XJ^,^^ *he ev€ could reach, we ooiervca uu ^inti; Alps, and particularly that ft"pen^°- Lain called the f^^^^^^^lJ^t^S^X Wettfr-hTn! t^"iung-f-horn, and the ''^ThfupP part of this glacier of the Fuixa, is far more beautiful than the lower extremity;, the nowis of a more virgin white ..the PF-"^^^ ice more bold ; and the blue tints njore^wely and ainmated. Having enjoyed >" d iieren dw reclions this icy fcene, we defcended near the Tdge of the glaclr, and ref-ihed our elves w^^^^ fome water from two ^""'^P^TjPrfhe fides Auzhflxvcichibrunncn, thnt burft from the ides ff ihe rock, a. a fmall diftance fron. each othe^. We then went down a very fteep dcfcent, ul we joined the track which I purfued in 1776. I re- coUedlcd, with a pleafing fatisfadioii, the torrent, near which we eat on that occafion our humble repaft ; and came to the Rhone about half a mile below the fpot where it burih into two ftreams from the bottom of the glacier. In order to have a nearer view, we croffed the two ftreams, which, though fcarcely three feet in depth, ruflied with fuch exceeding violence, as aimoft to overturn the guide, who conveyed me acrofs on his flioulders. Having admired the arch of ice, and paid our obeifancc to the majeftic habitation of the River-God, we walked at the foot of the Satzberg, and noticed feveral lively fprings iffu- ing from the ground, which the inhabitants call icold waters ; and a little further three warm fources, in which the mercury in Reaumur's thermometer ftood at ten degrees above freez- ing point, or ^^ of Fahrenheit. Thefe fources, uniting with feveral cold fprings, fall, within a few paces from theijr rife, into the great torrent that flows from the glacier, and are ufually con- fidcred as the true fources of the Rhone. That honour is appropriated to thefe little rills, becaufe, being of an equal temperature in all feafons of the year, they do not owe their origin, like the cold waters^ to the melted fnow and ice, and are as abundant in winter as in fummer. It ap- pears, however, extremely inconfiftent, to dig- nify thefe little ftreams with the excluftve title of the fources of the Rhone, for* that river un- doubtedly owes it§ origin and greatnefs to the perpetual and inexhauftible fupplies from the lurrounding glaciers. 'We 294 LETTER 29, We bad now employed above nine hours from the time of our quitting the valley of Urlercn ; and fl.ould have continued much longer amid thefe majeftic fccnes, if the declmmg fun had not reminded us of approachmg night, being ftiU at a confiderable diftance from any habita- tion, we continued our route, and began aicend- ing the weftern fide of the Grimfel, near the warm fources above mentioned. Ihe tracK, thouah extremely deep, and as perpendicular as a man could well mount, was not dangerous becaufe the rocks were thickly covered with fmaU fcrubs, herbage, and moffes. After an hour and a quarter's tedious afcent, we reached the fummit of the Grimfe , and defcending a rugged ridge of granite rocks, we looked down upon a lake, from which lilues a ftrcam that falls into the Rhone. A ittle further wc paired feveral fmall rills and dark lakes which fupplv the Aar ; in lefs than an hour we entered the road which leads to the Vallais, and came to the place of our deftination, the fame hovel on the Grimfel, where I paffed the night on niy former expedition. We arrived there about eight in the evening, after a journey which employed us more than twelve hours. No fituation can exceed the folitary horror ot the fcenery on the top of the Grimfel. Its ap- pearance reftmbled the infide of a mine, and feemed as if the bowels of the earth had been violently rent afunder ; reminding me of that fublime defcription in the ^neis, when the in- fide cf Cacus's cave is inftantaneoufly laid open by the arm of Hercules. Mount Grimfet 2^95 At fpfcus^ €t Caci deteda apparuit ingem 'Regia^ et umbrof Fall of the Rcichenbach-P^Me offjheldec^ ^ Valley and Glaciers of Grmdelwald. Grindelwald, Auguft 13. Fir 'V:^^^^^ rafts down the ftcep fides of Mount Sheidec, un Ifnt unites with the Aar near Meyringen. "^^K SlS the Reichenbach may be divided into three principal parts- ^j^^ Fall of the Reichenbach* 309 The firft, which alone is ufually vifitcd by travellers, precipitates itfelf from an overhang- ing rock, is reduced into fpray and foam, and in ^ that (late falls in a perpendicular column, at leaft from an elevation of two hundred feet, into a na- tural bafon, from which it overflows, and is foon loft in the abyfs beneath. The rock itfelf is con- cave, arched, totally bare, excepting its fummit, which is feathered with fhrubs ; and being of black marble, forms a ftriking contraft with th^ pure whitenefs of the defcending foam. Part of the fpray rebounds on the rock, and glides gently into the bafon in many a filvery cur- rent. The fecond cataraft begins from the over- flowing of the bafon ; and is moft advantageoufly feen from a large tree which impends on the fides of the precipice. In this part the torrent forms a fecond perpendicular column of water, which is half obfcured, as it dafhes through a chafm of projefting rocks. The beft point of view for feeing the third cata- raft is in a meadow at the bottom of the fecond. From that fituation the whole Reichenbach feems one immenfe water-fall ; the bottom of the firft, and the top of the fecond cataraft, being con- cealed by the intervening hills. From thence it rolls nearly in a horizontal direftion ; is di- vided into two ftreams by a rocky ifland beauti- fully fprinkled with trees, and impetuoufly de- fcends in two unequal bodies. It then daflie^ ' over broken crags of black marble, through groves of beech, mountain-a(h, and pines, and rich grounds intcrfpcrfed with hamlets. On I 3,0 LETTER 3'- On viewing the various parts of this ftupcn, dous fall, I was as much intercfted and affeded, ariiftius is reprefented by Virgil when h.s mother Syrene points out to him the fources of Se principal mm burfting at once from the earth. J^mq ; domum mirans genitricis et humda regna Speluncifque lacus claufos, lucojque fonantes, Jhat et ingenti tnotu ftupefaaus aquarum, oJiia fub magtid labentia flumina terra Speaabat dt^rfa loch, Phaftmque, Lycimqut. it caput, unde alius primum fi erumpit Lmpeut, Unde pater Tiberinus, et unde Anietia jluertta, Saxofumque fonans Hypanis, Myfufque Catcus, Et gemina auratus taurino cornua v«h heavy hearts -, much difappointcd, that what we had feen though certainly a very curious and fublime fight; did not equal our expeQations : and it added to our chagrin, on being afterwards in- formed, that though we could f^rcely have pro- ceeded further in the direaion which we took, vet, that if we had followed another path, we might have penetrated to the Superior glacier, arfd have reached the bafe of the Schreckhorn. In that part between the mountains, now occupiea Grindelwald. VS by the Inferior glacier, there was formerly a road which communicated with the Vallais, but is at prefent impaffable ; and a fpot was pointed out to us, now covered with ice, where once ftood a fmall chapel. What peculiarly diftinguiflies the glacier of Grindelwald from that of the Furca, is, that the latter lies amid barren and craggy rocks, in a moft defolate, dreary, and uninhabited country ; whereas this valley of ice joins to a very fertile plain, and borders upon cultivation : in other refpefls the Furca was a much more ftriking objed. Not far from this glacier of Grindel- wald, pines, willows, afti, and oaks, grow and come to perfeSion : and near the borders of the ice I gathered ftrawberries and wild cherries, and obferved hazel-nuts, barberries, and mulberry- trees. The valley of Grindelwald is extremely fertile ; it produces barley, rye, hay, hemp, and fruit-trees in great abundance, and feeds above two thoufand large cattle. I am, &c. LETTER 1 ^9 I 3i6 LETTER 32- LETTER 32* Valley and Glaciers of Lauterbruennen-Fall of the Staubbach, The road from Grindelwald to this place is good" and ^e met a cart, ^hich to us is become I remarkable objea, not having feen any thmg tha'moves upon ieels fince we qftcd Lucerne The country is pleafingly divcrfified w th hang- Si woods, immenfe rocks, deep precipices, and violent tor'rents. But I fuppofe you are by h« rd%"t:Nx^qt^^^^^^^^^^ mifts and hollow wmds*. ^^ . A nearer and more intereljing but more difficult paffage condueu over the Sheidec from Gr.ndelwald to Uuter_ ^TH""^\r£."t«artr;LraattaforVt r/^r^tSeA^er obliging me to change ^r- Siaubbach. 317 The valley of Lauterbruennen is embofomed In the midft of the alps. The weftern boundary of the valley, from which the Staubbach falls, would, in any other country, be called an enor- mous mountain : It here appears only a tri- fling hill in comparifon with the oppofite chain, of which the highcft point is the beautiful Jung- frau-horn, that ftretches in a fcmicircular direc- tion, and overlooking the adjacent peaks, rifes to a ftupendous height. We are now lodged at the houfe of the clergy- man of Lauterbruennen ; a little village, or rather colleftion of cottages, fprinklcd, like thofe of Grindelwald, about the valley and acceffiblc parts of the hills. Near the houfe, is the cele- brated fall of the Staubbach, which I am juft re- turned from viewing. This torrent rolls per- pendicularly from fo confiderable a height, as to refolve itfelf into fine fpray ; the greateft part of it falls clear of the overhanging mountain, during its whole defcent ; but the remainder daflies about half way againft a projection from the rock, and flies off with great violence. The clergyman meafured, a fliort time ago, its per- pendicular height, and found it nine hundred and thirty feet. The fun fliining in an oppofite diredtion, a miniature rainbow was refleded towards the bottom of the fall : while I flood at fome diftance, the rainbow affumed a femi- circular • folution, I continued my journey along the fame road as on the former occafion. It may be proper to apprize the traveller, that there are twoSheidecs, the one feparating the vallies of Grindelwald and Meyringen, the other thofe of Grindelwald and Lauter- bruennen, Lauterbruennen, 319 318 LETTER 32, circular figure ; as I approached, the extreme points gradually coincided, and formed a com- plete circle of the moft lively and brilliant colours- In order to have a ftill finer view, I ventured nearer and nearer ; the circle at the fame time becoming fmaller and fmaller ; and as I flood quite under the fall, it fuddenly difap- pcared. When I looked up to the torrent, in this fituation, it refembled a cloud of duft : and from this circumftance indeed it takes its name ; Staubbach fignifying, in the German language, a fpring of duji. I paid for my curiofity, by being extremely wet ; but then I had the fa- tisfaaion, at the fame time, of feeing a ram- bow in miniature : no uncommon phsenome- non, as it may be obferved in any cafcade, upon which the fun fiiines diredly in a certain .pofition. In the prefent inftance, however, it was (ome confolation to me,^ that the obje£t happened to be peculiarly ftriking. The next morning we rode to the extremity of the vale, in which there are fome noble points of view,and afcended to the glaciers, which fl:retch • from the feet of the Breit-horn and Groff-horn. In this delightful valley many ftreams * of the cleared water gufli from the earth like fmall rivers, and numberlefs torrents precipitate them- felves from the mountains. I noticed two in par- ticular which fall from a greater height than even the Staubbach, but as their defccnt is not fo di- red, they are lefs extraordinary. After • From iTiis circumftance it receives its name, Lauter- kruenmn, in German, {\^n\(y'ing marty firings. After mounting above three hours, we reached a fmall hut, which in fummer is inhabited by herdfmen, who make excellent cheefes, and tend numerous herds of cows, goats, and fwine. Here we feafted upon cold chamois, which our hoft had provided for us, and concluded our repaft with a deffert of deUcious cream. From thence we afcended ftill further, with con- fidcrable difficulty arrived at the borders of the glaciers, and were entirely furrounded by rugged and almoft impaffable rocks. We wiBicd to proceed ; but our hoft affuring us^ that we had but juft time to return before night, we fat down clofe to the ice, and contem- plated, with rapture and aftonilhment, part of the great central chain of the alps ; rocks tower- ing above rocks, and mountains rifing above mountains, not more diftinguifhed for their ftu- ^ pendous heights, than for the imi^ienfe variety ** and rudenefs of their forms. One of the peaks, which is called the Grofs-horn, is of a pyramidal fhape, and is capped with frozen fnow ; another, the Breit-horn, is conical, and feems crowned with an enormous mafs of tranfparent ice, from which the reflection of the fun-beams were inex- preffibly beautiful. But the moft elevated and moft majeftic of the whole group, is the Jungfrau- horn, or Virgin's-horn, which takes its name of virgin^ becaufe its fummit is inacceiTible. The hollows between the mountains are filled with large vallies of ice, broken into a great va- riety of (hapes ; and feveral torrents burfting from the fnow, and uniting in their courfe, form the Weifs-Lutchine, a river which rolls rapidly through the valley of Lauterbruennen, joins the Schwartz- 320 LETTER 32- Schwartz-Lutchine, which flows from Grindel- ' wald, and falls into the Aar. Manv of the mountains are covered to a great height with verdure, on which the eye repofes S delight amid the horrors of fuch wmtry fcenes. We obferved alfo, at coni.derable cle. vations, feveral fmall villages, the accels to which muft be almoft as difficult as to the glaciers to which we afcended. NotwithaanJing, however, the magnificence and variety of this curious fcenery, and the un- common ph^enomenon of ice and fnow m the mida of fummer, bordering on forefts and culti- vation ; yet I muft own, that the ideas which we had previoufly conceived, from the exaggerated accoums of others, concerning the bound efs ex- tent and magnificent appearance of the glaciers, were not fufficicntly anfwered. And it is re- markable, that every objeft in Switzerland has more than gratified our cxpeftations, except the glaciers ; which muft, neverthelcfs, be confider. ed as forming one of the moft mterefting ph^- nomena in the whole country. 1 his difappoint- ment fcems to have been occafioned by the turgid accounts which we had heard and read of the gla- ciers of Grindelwald and Lauterbrucnnen : and we were led to fuppofed, that the glacier of the Furca was much interior in magnitude to thoic ot Grindelwald and Lauterbrucnnen ; whereas, m faa, it was in all rcfpeas equal, if not fuperior, to them. POSTSCRIPT. \ Glaciers of Lauterbrunnen. 321 POSTSCRIPT, September i, 178$. In 1785, I was confiderably more delighted and aftonifhed with the vallies of Grindelwald and Lauterbrucnnen than in 1776; becaufe my imagination was not, in this as in the former in- ftance, exalted by exaggerated deferiptions, and led to expedt more than could be reached, even by nature herfelf, however prodigal in thefc her fublimeft works. But the vaUies of ice appeared to me, in the latter as well as in the former period, inconfiderableobjeds, when view- ed at fome diftance, and compared with the furrounding mountains, whofe fummits and fides are clothed with vaft regions of ice and fnow. On a nearer approach they become more interefting, particularly when they are broken into abrupt ridges, and immenfe chafms ; and when their aggregate mafs, and numerous branches, are obferved from the furrounding heights. Still, however, the traveller may be difppointed, whofe imagination has been previ- oufly filled with turgid deferiptions ; or who ap- plies to the vallies of ice that fublimity and mag- nificence, which are only due to the Alps above and around them. Vol. I. LETTER 3»2 LETTER 35' r LETTER 33- i i Lakes of Tbun and Brientz—Pafage of Mount Gemmi— Baths of Leuk. 1 HE neareft route from Lauterbrucnncn to the Baths of Lcuk, leads acrofs the mountains to Kanderfteig. It is called le chemin vert, or the zreen way, bccaufe the rocks arc, for the molt part; covered with herbage. It is only prachca- ble to foot-paffengers ; and I was informed by a Swifs gentleman who paffed it, though fteep and difficult, that it is not dangerous. Its diltancc • may be about three leagues, and, to a perlon not wholly unaccuftomed to alpme paflages, would require about five or fix hours. A chapur vould perform it in lefs than half the time. In my fecond expedition, in 1785, I had propofed crofling this way ; but was obliged to decline it, i; J / m f #! r- > \ ^ ^. ^^ ^ •\^ >? N r W N c? r ^ ,) N N. ^> k* r X V N^ ^ ^ K ^^ N V. \ x V V Lake of Thm and Brientz. 323 as I could not procure a guide who was acquaint- ed with the road. I purfued, therefore, the ufual route, which runs from the entrance of the valley of Lauter- bruennen, through a fertile plain, between the lakes of Thun and Brientz. About two leagues from Lauterbruennen, I came to the Aar, near the fpot where it iflues from the lake of Brientz, and followed its courfe, until it entered the lake of Thun, fo called from a town of that name, fituated upon its north-weftern extremity. This lake is about four leagues long and one broad ; and, and if we may judge from the fleepnefs of the mountains with which it is bounded, mufl be very deep : the borders are richly variegated ; and prefent feveral fine points of view, greatly heightened by many rugged rocks rifmg bold- ly from the edge of the water. We coafted this lake, through a delightful country, to the fmall village of Lcifmgen ; then afcended to ^fchi, from whence we looked down upon the lakes of Thun and Brientz. In all the maps of Switzer- land, which have fallen under my obfervation, thefe two lakes are reprefented as if they extended almoft in a ftrait line ; whereas they are fituated nearly at right angles to each other. You may judge of their true pofition, by the annexed en- graving, communicated to me by the Rev. Mr. Wyttenbach of Berne. Having defcended from JEfchi, we foon en- tered the rich valley of Frutigen, parallel to that of Lauterbruennen, and enjoyed, for a con- iiderable way, a profpeft of thofe glaciers w^e had vifitcd the day before* This valley ends at the Y 2 fmall • ^ * f 324 LETTER 33- Mount Gemmi. fmall town of Frutigen : from thence commences that of Kandcr, watered by a river of the fame name, and bounded by mount Kander. In all thefc vallies, the rudenefs and height of the mountains, which almofl: enclofe them, contraft- cd with the beauty and frukfulnefs of the plains, always fertilized by fome lively torrent, form a thoufand pidurefque fcenes, ever changing, and impofliblc to be defcrfced : and they are ftill I'urther embellifhed by the number of ruined caftlcs perched upon points feemingly inaccef- fible. The road continued good as far as the village^ of Kanderft^g ; from whence delicate travellers, who do not chufe to mount a rugged afcent, either on foot or on horfeback, are carried in an arm-chair fupported by means of poles upon men's fhoulders. VVe proceeded, however, on horfe- back, having before rode up fteeper and more difficult paths. After having afcended about an hour and a half, we arrived at the fummit of the Kander, where a wooden crofs marks the en- trance in the Vallais ; then traverfed a waving plain of pafturc, in which we obferved a few huts and feveral herds of cattle ; and at length reached a fingle houfe pn the Gemmi, where we procured fome rcfrefhment : here we faw nothing but im- menfe rocks piled upon one another, with no appearance of vegetation ; and the weather was exceedingly cold. VVe then pafl'ed ouer a large drift of fnow, and came to the lake called the Dauben See, about a league in circumference, fuppiitd by a confiderable torrent from a neigh- bouring glacier. This lake ha^o vifible outlet ; but 3'^5 .r but It doubtlefs finds a fubterraneous paflage into the Val/ais. ^ ^ The chain of mountains, which here feparates the canton of Berne from the Vallais, is called the Gemmi : from the point of which, over-look- ing and almofl over-hanging the Vallais, we had at once a moft cxtenfive profped over that fertile country, and the rugged Alps of Savoy. The mountain which we defccndcd, is in many places almoft perpendicular ; and yet a horfe-road has been hewed in the hard rock down this very formidable defcent. It was begun in (7:^6^ and finiflied in 1741, at the joint expence of the ^ Vallais, and the canton of Berne : an afto- nifhing work ! which proves that nothing is im- prafticable to human induftry. More than a league has been blown up with gunpowder, and a way formed which feems dangerous to thofe, who are unufed to mountainous countries, or whofe heads are apt to turn giddy. It is about nine feet broad, and quite hangs over the preci- pice : in fome parts, for a confiderable fpace, it is a hollow way, open only at one fide, the rock above projeding over it, of the fame breadth, and m the fame direaion. The appearance is peculiarly fingular : for, as the road winds con- tinually, the fcene alfo continually changes ; fo that one moment we commanded an extenfivc view, and the next were totally enclofed with barren rock. The defcent from the top to the plain, is about two leagues : when you are arrived at the bot- tom, and look up, you cannot obferve the fmalleft traces of a road ^ fo that a flranger would hardly believe \ # 326 LETTER 35- believe it poflible, that a paflage has been formed down the rock, until convinced by his own expe- rience. AboDt thirty years ago, the troops of Berne defccnded this road for the purpofe of aflifling the canton of Uri againft the inhabitants of the valley of Levino, who had revoked ; and, what is almoft incredible, they defcendcd with heavy artillery. This place is famous for its hot medicinal fprings ; and is much frequented by invalids of various kinds, during this feafon of the year : the patients either bathe or drink the waters. As far as I can judge from the accounts which I have received concerning their warmth, their analyfis, the method of ufmg them, and their efficacy in curing the goat, rheumatifm, obflruftions, and cutaneous diforders ; they fccm nearly to re- femble thofe of Bath. There are feveral fprings, of different warmth and of different qualities : according to the mofl accurate experiments made by the Rev. Mr. Wyttenbach, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, when plunged into the principal fource, ftood at 115 ; and at 120 in the fpring which flows near the bridge over the The accommodations for the company are very inconvenient : each perfon having for his own ufe a fmall apartment not more than a few feet fquare ; in which there is jufl room for a bed, a table, and two chairs. The public dining- room is upon rather a larger fcale, as is alfo an apartment where the company occafionally af- fcmblc. Formerly the accommodations were tolerably Bat is of Leuh 317 tolerably good ; but unfortunately, in 1719, ati avalanche fell with fuch impetuofity from a neighbouring glacier, upon the village, as to overwhelm the greatefl part of the houfes and the baths, and to deftroy a confidcrable number or the inhabitants. The company, confifting ofperfons from dif- terent quarters of Switzerland, are exceedingly attable and obliging : infomuch that feveral of them have invited us to their refpedive houfes ; and this invitation was made with that opennefs and unafTefted franknefs fo peculiarly charader- iftic of the Swifs. We dined this morning at eleven ; the bell for fupper is now ringing, and It is fcarce feven. Thefe are primitive hours : but we have travelling appetites ; and, provided we meet with refrefhment, the hour and place are or httle confequence. You are now probably drinking tea in your withdrawing room, from whence you are enjoy- ing that beautiful profped I have fo often ad- mired. The fituation of this fpot is more ro- mantle than that of Bath, and the waters perhaps not lefs efficacious : yet this village contains only a few miferable houfes, while Bath is one of the fincft towns in Europe. I had a converfation to- day upon this topic, with a very ingenious and well-informed gentleman of the Vallais. I ob- ferved to him that, confidering the great credit and efficacy of thefe waters, I could not forbear wondering, that the chiefs of the republic had not confidered the improvement of the accommoda- tions, an objeft worthy of their attention; for, if they were rendered more convenient for the re- ception ^Ti # ^^ fl J28 LETTER 3J' ception of invalids, it would undoubtedly be the means of drawing a great number of ftrangers ; and confequently muft be highly beneficial to the country. He affurcd me, it had more than once Decn m contemplation : that fome perfons of great credit and authority oppofed all improve- nients, upon a principle fimilar to the policy of Lycurgus ; conceiving that a concourfe of ftrangers would only ferve to introduce luxury among the inhabitants, and infenfibly dcftroy that fimplicity of manners, for which the Vai- laifans are fo remarkably diftinguiflied. How far the ignorance of a people contributes to their true felicity ? or how far a fimplicity of manners may be corrupted by national improve- ment? are queftions, which have been much agitated ; and will never be decided, fo long as it (hall be held jufl reafoning to argue from the abufe againft the ufe. But it will readily be al- lowed, that fuperftition is ever the companion of ignorance ; and that a people who are both ig- norant and fuperflitious, mufl neceffarily be be- nefited by an intercourfe with nations more im- proved and enlightened than themfelves. We walked to a fpot not far from hence, where a communication has been formed with the vil- lage Albenen. Where the mountain inclines to- wards a flope, a foot-path has been cut ; but in thofe parts where the rock is direftly perpendi- cular, ladders are placed ; and the peafants afcend and defcend with heavy burdens upon their fhoul- ders. We counted feven of thefe ladders. I mention this circumftance, not as being an objeft fo remarkable, perhaps, as is reprefented by fome tra- Batbs of LeuL 329 travellers ; but as it will convey to you an idea of the extreme ruggednefs and Angularity of the country. I am, &c. / y LETTER * 330 LETTER 34^ ^he Vallais. 331 LETTER 34« Republic of the Vallais — Cardinal Schinner — Town of Sion — Martigny — St. Maurice. Sion, Auguft 19. O I O N being nearly the point where the Ger- man language terminates, and where the French begins ; the natives in this part of the Vallais con- fequently fpeak both tongues. Nothing is more curious or interefting to thofe, who have entered into inquiries of this nature, than to inveftigate the caufes which occalion the gradations of Ian- guage : but acknowledging my ignorance in this branch of literature, 1 can only mention the fim- pie fadl. We fet out this morning at five, and came down a very fteep valley to Leuk, a fmall town built upon an eminence near the Rhone : that river is here very rapid ; and, if we may judge by by the breadth of the channel, often overflows its banks. We crofled it at this place, and conti- nued for fome way through a foreft of firs, till we again pafled the river to Siders : from thence we coafted its banks to Sion, the capital of the Val- lais. Another road leading from the Baths of Leuk to 8iders, which I traverfed in 1785, though more fteep and incommodious, is far more in- terefting to the traveller, who delights in piftu- refque views. It is called the galleries ; is cut along the fides of an abrupt and rugged rock, in a zig-zag diredion, and bounded by a wooden railing, which overhangs a dreadful abyfs, fo deep and obfcure, that the river Dala, which rolls impetuoufly through it, is neither feen nor heard. The oppofite chain of mountains is clothed with dark forefts, enlivened with paftures, and interfperfed with occafional villages, which are fituated one above the other, to a confiderablc height, and feepi fcarcely acceflible but to foot- paffengers. This traft of country, called the Vallais, ftretches from eaft to weft about a hundred miles ; and contains about a hundred thoufand inhabitants, who all profefs the Roman Catholic religion. It is divided into Upper and Lower Vallais : the former reaches from the Furca to the Merge, below Sion ; and the latter from that river to St. Gingou, fituated upon the lake of Geneva. The Upper Vallais is fovereign of the Lower Vallais ; and comprifes feven independent dixains or commonwealths ; namely, Sion, Goms, Brieg, Vifp, Leuk, Raren, and Siders : of thefe Sion is ii 33« LETTER 34. The Vallais. is ariftocratical, and the others democraticaf. They are called Dixainr^ becaufe the Upper Val- lais being divided into feven, and the L,ower into three diftrifts, each divifion is a dixahiy or tenth of the whole. The bifhop of Sion was formerly abfolute fo- vereign over the greatefl: part of the Vallais ; but his authority is at prefcnt limited to the following particulars. He has the fole power of pardoning criminals; and figns all the warrants for execu- tion : the money is coined in his name, and with the arms of the republic. In his ads he figns himfclf bifhop of Sion, prince of the German empire, and count and prjefcft of the Vallais : in days of high ceremony he dines in public, and is waited upon by the firft noble of the Val- lais, who is hereditary treafurer. He nominates alfo the bailifs or governors of the two bailliages of Martigny and Arden ; and he poffefles eonfiderable influence from his patronage of church preferment. Upon a vacancy in the fee, the canons of the chapter of Sion prefent from their own body four candidates, from whom one h appointed bifliop by the Lamifrath, or general diet. The fcven dixains form, conjointly with the biftiop, the republic of the Vallais ; and all af- fairs are tranfaded in the diet, called Landfrath^ which meets twice every year at Sion. This af- fembly confilts of nine voices ; the bi(hop ; the lands'hauptrnann^ who is chofen or confirmed by the diet every two years ; and the feven com- munities. The bilhop prefides, and the lands- hauptmann collefts the votes ; and all refolutions arc decided by the majority. Each dixain, al- though 333 though it has but one vote, fends as many de- puties as it pleafes : they generally confift of four ; — a judge, a banneret, a captain, and a lieute- nant. The judge and the lieutenant are appointed every two years \ the two others hold their offices for life. In all civil caufes of a certain importance, an appeal lies to the diet in the lad refort, from the inferior courts of juftice in the feveral dixains. Thus, by the inftitution of this fupreme council, the feveral communities in this country are firmly united, and form in conjunSion one body poli- tic, or republic, for the general affairs of the nation. In other cafes, each of the common- wealths is governed by its own particular lavv« and cuftoms. Both the Upper and Lower Vallais were for- merly dependent upon the bifliop of Sion ; but the inhabitants of the two diftrid^ united in or- der to limit his power ; and, having fucceeded in the attempt, they quarrelled among them- felves for the fuperiority. A bloody war cn- fued ; which terminated, in 1475, by the total defeat of the Lower Vallaifans. Since that pe- riod, they have continued fubjed to the Upper Vallais ; enjoying however fomc very confider- able privileges. The republic of the Vallais is an ally of the thirteen cantons ; and has formed a particular lea<;ue with the feven Catholic cantons, for the defence of their common religion. The bifliops of Sion had formerly a confider-^ able influence over the political affairs of Swit- zerland ; and Matthew Schinner, the cardinal bifliop, is famous in hiftory for his great abilities, bis fil 334 LETTER 34' his daring fpirit of intrigue, and his turbulent and reftlels ambition. He was born at Milbach, in the dixain of Goms ; and in 1500 was ap- pointed bifliop of Sion. It was entirely owing to his reprefentations and influence, that the Swifs troops gave a fingular inftance of infidelity to their public engagements, by breaking a treaty which they had juft contrafted with Francis the Firft. When that monarch invaded the Milanefe, he endeavoured to gain the Swifs ; who haying taken the duke of Milan under their protedion, were the only obftacles to the progrefs of his arms. Afte/ much hefitation, they were pre- vailed upon, by the offer of confiderable fubfidies, to enter into a treaty : but the alliance was no fooner concluded, than the cardinal of Sion per- fuaded them to break it, and continue the war. The Swifs hiftorians however record, with tri- umph, the patriotic conduct of two officers upon this occafion j who, remonftrating againft this breach of faith, drew off eight thoufand troops ; and returning to Switzerland, in fome meafure retrieved the honour of the nation. The remainder of the army, inftigated by the plaufible and artful eloquence of the cardinal, engaged Francis the Firft near Marignano, in one of the molt furious and obfiinate battles that was fought during the bloody wars of Italy. Night alone put a Hop to the engagement, with- out leparating the combatants ; both armies were blended upon the field of battle : and Francis ilept upon the carriage of a cannon, at no great diltance from a battalion of the enemy. ^ At day- break the Swifs renewed the charge with their ufual courage, and were received with equal bra- very. The Vallais. 335 very. At length the intrepidity of the king, and the defperate valour of the French, rofe fuperior to the furious and repeated attacks of the Swifs ; the latter retreated to Milan, leaving Francis in poffefTion of the field of battle : an advantage, however, which he gained by the lofs of his braveft troops. The fame cardinal, aduated by the moft in- veterate enmity to the French, occafioned alfo, by his fole intrigues, the lofs of the Milanefe to Francis. Lautrec, in the year 1521, command- ed a body of 12,000 Swifs, who formed the principal flrength of his army. On the other fide, the cardinal had obtained, by his influence over his countrymen, a fecret levy of the like number, to join the enemies of France : and thus, for the firft time, the Swifs were feen com- bating under oppofite banners, and ready to commit hoftilities againft each other. Upon this occafion the cantons immediately difpatched meffengers, with peremptory orders for the Swifs in both armies, to return to their country. The cardinal bribed the meffengers to conceal thefe orders from the Swifs in the army of the con- federates, and to deliver them only to thofe who were in the French fervice. The latter obeyed accordingly ; and this defertion weakening the army of Lautrec, Milan, and the principal towns, furrendered to the confederates. Soon after this inftance of his intrigues and influence, the car- dinal ended his turbulent life in the conclave, which affembled, on the death of Leo the Tenth, for the eleSion of a new pope. The inhabitants of this part of the Vallais are very much fubjeft to goiters, or large excref- cenccs it '■I 33^ LETTER 34. SioTip 337 cences of flefii that grow from the throat, and often increafes to a moft enormous fize : but, what is more extraordinary, idiocy alfo remark- ably abounds among them. I faw many in- ftances of both kinds as I paffed through Sion : fome idiots were baiking in the fun with their tongues out, and their heads hanging down ; ex- hibiting the moft afFeding fpedacle of intellec- tual imbecillity that can poffibly be conceived. The caufes which produce a frequency of thefc phaenomena in this country, is a curious quef- tion, which very much excites my inquiry ; but I fhall defer giving my opinion, until I Ihall have obtained farther information. The weather in this enclofed vale is fo ex- ceedingly hot, that I am at this inftant, although the evening is far advanced, quite oppreffed with the extreme fultrinefs. This languid heat is probably one of the caufes, which occafion the inconceivable lazinefs and indolence of the in- habitants : much, however, mufl: at the fame time be attributed to the richnefs of the foil ; which prevents labour by almoft fpontaneoufly producing the fruits of the earth. In fad, the people ailift nature very little ; we paffed feveral vineyards, in which the vines were fuffered to trail upon the ground ; whereas, if the branches were properly raifed and fupported, the owner would be well rewarded by the fuperior quantity and quality of their produce. The uncleanlinefs of the common people, is difgufting beyond expreffion. I have juft been holding a converfation upon tfiis fubjed with my landlord ; who, though himfelf a noto* lious example, yet feverely cenfured the dirti- nefft nes of his countrymen ; and feemed to affign t as one caufe of goiters. This affertion in- duced me to confider the perfon of my hoft with fomcwhat more attention, in order to dif- cover how it flood with himfelf in that refpedt ; and I was rather difappointed to find, that he proved an exception to his own remark. Let me not, however, be underftood as infmuating that the inhabitants in general are either goitrous, idiots, indolent, or dirty; like that traveller who afferted, that all the women of a certain town were crooked, red-haired, and pitted with the fmall-pox, becaufe his landlady happened to be fo. Indeed, I look upon national reflexi- ons in general, to proceed from the narroweft and moft illiberal turn of mind : and' have always been cautious not to judge of the phyfical, or moral charader of any people from a partial and fuperficial view. But as to the fingular preva- lency in the prefent inftance, of goiters and idiocy, it is a faft which I can venture to affirm, both from my own experience, and from vari- ous converfations I have held with feveral men of learning and obfervation of this country ; and with refped to the general dirtinefs and indolence of the common people, it is too notori- ous to efcape the obfervation of the moft carelcfs traveller. Sion is fituated near the Rhone, at the foot of three infulated rocks, that rife immediately from the plain. The higheft, called Tourbillon, fupports the ruins of the old epifcopal palace, ftill containing two or three untenanted apart- ments, in one of which are the portraits of the feveral bilhops. On the fecond rock, denomi- Vol. L Z nated n^3 LETTER 34' nated Valeria, are obferved the remains of the old cathedral, and a few hoiifes belonging to the carnons. . On Mayoria, the third rock, Hands the epifcopal palace, an anticnt edifice of (tone, built, in 1547. On feeing the apartments, 1 was great- ly ftruck with their plainnefs, and could not avoid reflecting with pleafure on the fimplicity of manners, which mud neceifarily prevail in this country ; when the rooms, inhabited by the fovereign, inflead of befpeaking the magnifi- cence of a court, are fcarccly fuperior to the dwelling of a peafant. Two apartments princi- pally engaged my attention. The firfl: is that in which the Diet affembles : at the upper end are two armed chairs for the bilhop and the lands -hauptmann^ and on each fide a row of fmaller feats for the deputies of the feven dixains. The other apartment is the hall, in which the bifhop holds his court, like the feudal lords of antient times : at the farther extremity is a raifed feat, called a throne, furrounded by a wooden baluftrade ; and, as an incitement to wifdom and impartiality, the figures of Juftice, and So- lomon's judgment, are coarfely painted upon the walls. Sion is an antient town, and was formerly the capital of the Seduniy who inhabited this part of the country in the time of Julius Ciefar. A few remaining infcripticns ftill prove its antiquity ; and, among others, fo obliterated that I was not able to decypher them, I obferved one which was more legible : it is in honour of the em- peror Augullus, during his eleventh confulfhip. In this infcription the town is called Civitas Se- dumrum. At Sion. 339 At Sion we parted with our horfes and guides, who had accompanied us from Altdorf ; and pro- cured a piece of luxury, to which we had been for fome time unaccuftomed ; I mean a coach. But, notwithftanding the concentrated heat of the climate, and the great fultrinefs of the air,, 1 prefer riding or walking ; as by that means I enjoy a more unobflruded view of the country : and indeed the fcenes are fo beautiful, and fo perpetually changing, that the attention is every moment engaged by a variety of new objefts that ftrongly demand admiration. Upon entering the Lower Vallais, I perceived as much uncleanlinefs, but a greater appearance of induflry ; and I am informed, that the natives are not altogether fo indolent as the inhabitants of Sion and its environs. This imputation of indolence will not hold good with refpeQ to all the inhabitants of the Upper Vallais : for in the eaftern part of that dif- tridt, which we entered after having croffcd the Furca, the foil, though far inferior in richnefs and fertility, was much better cultivated ; and the people feemed induftrious. Some phyfical reafons may be afligned tor this difference : for there the weather is not fo fultry, the water is not unwholcfome, and the air is remarkably fa- lutary. Accordingly, upon our firlt entering the Vallais, we did not obferve any of thofe goitrous perfons or idiots, who ftruck us fo much in the midland pans. We ftopped at the village of Martigny, which according to antiquarians, was the antient Ocio- duruiiu It i^ faid, that near this place may be traced the fite of Sergius Galba's camp, one of Z 2 Julius Mf J40 LETTER St, Maurice* 34' 341 Julius Csefar's lieutenants, who was fcnt by that general to fubdue the feragri, the Nantuates^ and the Seduni \ the antient inhabitants of thefe dif- trids. It feeras evident indeed from Csefar^'s defcription, in the third book of his Commen- taries, that Ododurwn could not be far from the prefent fituation of Martigny ; which (lands in a fmall plain, encircled by high mountains, and divided by the Dranfe, that falls into the Rhone. 1 cannot however afcertain from my own obfer- vation, whether any traces of a Roman en- campment flill remain ; nor could I gain the lead information from the inhabitants : fo that the conjecture concerning the fituation of Odadurum relts only upon the faith of anti- quarians, and on the general pofition of the country. Martigny is a place much frequented by tra- vellers : it leads to the valley of Chamouny, to St. Maurice and the lake of Geneva, and is the paffage of the merchandize, which is conveyed over the Great St. Bernard into Italy. Near Martigny we pafTed under the majeftic ruins of La Bathia, an old epifcopal caflle, (landing upon the fummit of a craggy rock, and impend- ing over the impetuous Dranfe. The road from hence to St. Maurice runs under a chain of rocks, the Rhone flowing at a fmall diftance through the middle of a fertile vale. Having crofTed the Tricnt, a turbid torrent which i(rues from a narrow and obfcure gltn, remarkable for its rugged and romantic fcenery, we arrived at the Piite-Vacbe, a cataraft much noticed by tra- vellers. The characceridic beauty of this fall is, tliat it fcems to burd from a cleft in the middle of of the rock, through hanging (hrubs that (lart abruptly from the crevices, and forms a perpen- dicular column of water about two hundred feet in height. The body of water being very am- ple, and the elevation not fo confiderable as to reduce it entirely into fpray, render the efFeft very (Iriking. I enjoyed alfo the additional pleafure of feeing the fun rife oppofue ta this waterfall. The regular expanfion of the rays enlightening the different parts of the column of water ; and the gradual defcent of the rainbow formed by the fpray, were inexprefTibly beauti- ful. Thefe torrents are my delight , but per- haps they recur too often in my letters to con- tinue to be yours. Formerly travellers paflfed clofe to the PiflTe-Vache ; but a few years ago part of the rock falling down totally obdrufted the road, which now runs through the middle of the valley. I traverfed on foot, not without fome difficulty amid the fallen fragments, where, on a former occafion, I had pa(red in a car- riage. At the extremity of the Lower Vallais, the two chains of mountains that bound this coun- try, approach toward the Rhone, which nearly fills the interval between them. In this fpot is fituated the town of St. Maurice, built almoft totally upon the rock, at the foot of fome deep mountains, and at a fmall didance from the river. Its antient appellation was /Igaunum : it takes that of St. Maurice from an abbey, ered- ed in the beginning of the fixth century, by Si- gifmond king of Burgundy, in honour of a iaint, who is fuppofed to have fuffered mar- tyrdom in this place. This faint was the leader of 34^ LETTER 34 of the famous Theban Irgion, which is recorded to have betn maffacreJ by order of the emperor Maximin, for not renouncing Chriflianity. This hiftory has given rife to much controverfy : while fome authors have treated it as a mere forgery, others have conteudeii for its authen- ticity, with as much warmth and zeal, as if the truth of Chriflianity depended upon the deci- fion. Without entering into the merits of the queflion, I cannot but remark, that the caufe of Chriflianity has fuffcred more from weak and imprudent defenders, than from the fharpefl at- tacks of its molt inveterate adverfaries. Indeed, the queflion concerning the number and fuffer- ings of the martyrs, has occafioned much idle difputation : for, reduce the popular accounts of both as low as probability can reafonably carry them, there will flill remain fufEcient evidence of the wonderful conflancy and calm refolution of thofe primitive viftims : and whether a hun- dred thoufand, or only fifty, fuffered for the caufe of Chriiliauity, it will equally fland upon the fame firm and immoveable foundaticn. Nor is the inquiry more material concerning the mo- tives that acluated its powerful ^nd cruel adver- ftries. It matters not whether Decius ordered the Chriflians to be mafTacred, becaufe they had been favoured by his prcdecefTor Philip, or from his attachment to the Pagan rites ; whether Maximin pcrfecuted them from interefled mo- tives : Dioclefian as introducing innovations in his government ; or whether Condantine pro- teded them from convidion or policy. For the truth of Chriftianity is in no refpeft affefled either by the imprudence of its early profefTors (if 57. Maurice. ;43 (if with any they were juflly chargeable) or the -political reafons that in;luenced the conduct of thofe etiiperors. A few P.oman infcriptions, chiefly fepulchral, and two defaced columns are the only uncontro- verted remains of the antiquity of St. Maurice.^ It is principally diftinguiihed as beino- the chief entrance from the canton of Berne into the Val- lais. This entrance is formed by a narrow pafs, fo flrongiy fortincd by nature, that a handful of men might defend it againil a confiaerabw- army. The flone bridge over the Rhone is much ad- mired for its bold projedion : it is of a fingle arch, and the fpan is a hundred and thirty feet. Half of this bridge belongs to the Vallais, and the re- inainder to the canton of Berne. I ^m, &9^ L K T T K R 344 LETTER 2S- The Vallais, \ LETTER 35- Of the Vallais— Goiters and Idiots. I Trier.t, Auguft 22. A M now writing from the village of Trient, on my way to Mont Blanc and the alps of Savoy. From the mountain of the Furca, its eaftern boundary, two vaft ranges of alps enclofe the Vallais : the fouthern chain feparates it from the Milanefe, Piedmont, and part of Savoy ; the northern divides it from the canton of Berne. Thefe two chains, in their various windings, form feveral fmall valleys, watered by numerous tor- rents that rufh into the Rhone, as it traverfes the whole diftrid from, the Furca to St. Maurice. A country thus entirely enclofed within high alps, and confiding of plains, elevated valleys, and lofty mountains, muft neceffarily exhibit a great variety of fituations, climates, and produftion^. Accordingly, 345 Accordingly, the Vallais prefents to the curious traveller a quick fucceflion of profpefts, as beauti- ful as they are diverfified : Vineyards ; rich pafture-grounds covered with cattle ; corn, flax, fruit-trees, and occafionally bordered by naked rocks, the fummits whereof are crowned with everlafting fnow. This ftrong and flriking con« traft between the pafloral and the fublime, the cultivated and the wild, cannot but afFeft the mind of an obferver with the mod pleafmg emo- tions. As to the produftions of the Vallais ; they muft evidently vary, according to the great di- verfity of climates, by which this country is fo peculiarly diftinguilhed. It fupplies more than fufEcient wine and corn for interior confumption : and indeed a confiderable quantity of both are yearly exported ; the foil in the midland and lower diftrifts being exceedingly rich and fertile. In the plain, where the heat is collefted and confined between the mountains, the harveft is ufually finiflied in July : whereas, in the more elevated parts, barley is the only grain that can be cuhivated with any fuccefs ; and the crop is feldom cut before November. About Sion, the f\g^ the melon, and all the other fruits of Italy, come to perfe6lion : in confequence of this fm- gular variety of climates, I tafted in the fame LETTER 35. Of Goiters. 35* ill I fied. He confirmed the report that infants are occafionally born with guttural fwellings ; parti- cularly thofe whofe parents are goitrous ; and re- marked, that one of his own children had at its birth a goiter as large as an Q^g^ although neither he nor his wife who were both foreigners * , were affliQed with that malady. He had diffipated i: by external remedies ; and fmce that period, had invariably prohibited his family from tafting the fpring waters, unlefs they were didillcd, or mixed with wine or vinegar ; by which means lie was able to prefcrve them from thofe tu- mours in the throat, that were extremely com- mon among the natives of the town which he in- habited. Although it is by no means my intention to trouble you with the various opinions which have been advanced on this fubjeft : yet it would be unjuft to withhold from you that of M. de Sauf- fure, whofe accurate refearches and profound in- Tedigation on philofophical fubjecls, deferve to be weighed with the greatcft attention. That able naturalift, in a recent publication f, attri- butes the produdtion of goiters not to the waters, but principally to the concentrated heat of the climate, and itagnation of the air. He informs OS, that in all his travels through the Alpine countries, he never obferved goiters in any place, which are elevated more than 500 or 600 toifes • In rhe former inftance, goite's may, though pchnps er- toneoufivf, be cfteemed hereditary j bur in the latter, where the parcnrs are bo:h foreigners and not goitrou*, can fcarce- Iv be derived from any o.her caufe than the aliment of the mo* her. f See Voyages dans les Alpe«, ch. 4S. vol. ii. p. 4S0. toifes f above the level of the fea : he noticed them in thofe vallies where the heat is concen- trated, and the air ftagnates ; and that they ufually ceafe wherever the valley terminates, and the country expands into a large plain. With great deference, however, to his opinion, may I be permitted to obferve, that the conclufion does not abfolutely follow from thefe premifcs ? For it may be remarked, that in places elevated more than 5C0 to 600 toifes above the level of the fea, the fprings are too near their fources, to have diffolved a fufficient quantity of calcareous mat- ter, or fo minutely as may be requifite for the generation of goiters ; and that when the valley expands into a plain, the waters may depofit their fediment by mixing with the rivers and lakes, or by fihrating through the earth and gravel. But although the two caufes mentioned by M. de Sauffure do not produce, they may affiji in producing guttural excrefcences, by re- laxation. In fine, although the concentrated heat, and ftagnation of the air, may be allow- ed to affed the human body to a confiderable degree ; yet they do not of themfelves feem fuf- ficient for the efteft in queftion, without the in- tervention of forne more powerful agent : and this agent fecms to be the water ; if the fads already ftated, prove confonant to truth and ex- pericnce. It may be neceffary, however, to obviate an objeftion which maintains, that goiters muft rather originate from climate and fituation ; be- caufe foreigners, eitablilhed in the country, are never f 3200 and 3840 Englifli feet. 35' LETTER 35. never afflicted with thofe tumours, while their children arc no lefs fabjeft to them than the;,^ natives. But is it an uncontrovertible faft, that \|^ no foreigner has ever been afflicted with this malady ? I'he queflion, I fhould prefume, can fcarcely be replied to in the affirmative. And all that can be cftabliftied, with any degree of certainty, is, that foreigners are lefs fubjecl to thefe fwellings than their children or the natives. In this refpecl the anfwer is evident. Perfons who ufually fettle in foreign countries are adults ; and adults are doubtlefs much lefs liable than children to an endemial malady, whofe opera- tion is gradual, and which requires much length of time, before its cffeds are in the lead vifible. And it is remarked, that, among the natives themfelves, thofe perfons, who have cfcaped this diforder during their infancy, are feldom at- tacked by it to anyconfiderable degree at a more advanced age. In reafoning upon this, as well as on fimilar fubjcds, where a caufe is fought for, capable of producing a certain efteft ; it is neceffary to efta- blifli a primary and general caufe, which always necejfarily exills, wherever that effed is pro- duced ; and to exclude thofe circumftances, which do not always and neceffarily exiit, where- evcr that cfFtft is produced. Thus, in the pre- fent inftance : \i fnow- water occafions goiters, wherever there are goiters, there muji be fnow- water ; which is contrary to fad and experience. If the concentrated heat of the climate, and ftagnation of the air, are neceffary to the forma- tion of goiters, thofe excrefcences could never be formed where thefe caufes are wanting \ which is Colters and Idiots* 353 1^ not confirmed by fafl and experience. If waters, impregnated with tuf or with certain calcareous fubftances, produce goiters ; where- ever there are goiters, the natives muft drink wa- ters fo impregnated ; and thisy^^;7Zj agreeable to fadtand experie ncc. The fame caufes, which generate goiters, prO'- bably operate in the cafe of idiots : for, wherever the former prevail to a confiderable degree, the latter Invariably abound. As fuch is the nice and inexplicable connexion between our bodies and our minds, that the one ever fympathifes with the other ; it is by no means an ill-grounded conjecture, that the fame caufes which afFedt the body fhould alfo affcd the mind ; or, in other words, that the fame waters, which create ob- flructions and goiters, (hould alfo occafion men- tal imbeciUity and difarrangement. Although thefe idiots are frequently the chil- dren of goitrous parents, and have ufually thofe fwellings themfelves ; yet they are fometimes the offspring even of heahhy parents, whofe other children arc properly organized, and are them- felves free from guttural excrefcences. I ob- ferved feveral children, fcarcely ten years of age, who had very large goiters. Thefe tumours, when they increafe to a confiderable magnitude, check rcfpiration, and render thofe who are af- flicted with them exceedingly indolent and lan- guid. Some perfons have, in oppofition to the opinion which I have ventured to advance, fup- pofed, that the fmall guttural fwellings, which are common in many other parts, and the large excrefcences, which are more particularly ob- ferved in the Vallais, in the Valley of Aoft and Vol. I. A a \ti J 54 I> E T T E R 35- in fpmc other places, do not proceed from the fame caufe, and are not the fame diforder. But fufficient reafons have not been affigned for this opinion. During my expedition through the Vallais and other parts of Switzerland, I noticed fome of all proportions, from the fize of a wal- nut to almoft the bignefs of a peck loaf. As the fame gradation may be alfo obferved in the fpc- cies of idiots ; by a fimilar mode of argument, thofe who poffefs fome faint dawnings of rcafon might be difcriminated from others, who arc to- tally deaf and dumb, and give no proof of exift- ence but the mere animal fenfations. Whereas it is probable, that in both inftances the greater or Icffer difarrangement of the body or mind docs not indicate a difference of complaint, but only greater or leffer degrees of the fame com- plaint. It is to be prefumed, that a people accuftom- cd to thefe excrefcences, will not be (hocked at their deformity ; but I do not find, as fome wri- ters affert, that they confider them as beau- ries. To jadge from the accounts of many tra- vellers, it might be fuppofed, that the natives, without exception, were either idiots or goi- trous : wl^reas, in faft, the Vallaifans, in ge- neral, are a robuft race ; and all that with truth can be affirmed, is, that goitrous perfons, and idiots, are more abundant in fome diflrids of fhe Vallais, than perhaps in any other part of th^ globe. It has been aflerted alfa, that the people very much refped thefe idiots, and even confider them as hleffings from Heaven ; which is (Irongly con- tradidled by others. Upon my queftioning fome gentlemen Gotten and Idiots* 355 gentlemen of this country, at the baths of Leuk, they treated the notion as abfurd and falfe: but whether they delivered their real fentiments, or ^ere unwilling to confirm what migjit lower their countrymen in the opinion of a ftrangcr, will admit perhaps of fome doubt. For having, fince that time, repeatedly inquired among the lower ranks, I am convinced, that the common people cfteem them as bleffings. They call them " Souls of God, without fin ;" and many parents prefer thefe idiot-children to thofe whofe underftand- ings are perfeS ; becaufe, as they are incapable of intentional criminality, they confider them as certain of happinefs in a future ftate. Nor is this opinion entirely without its good cflfeft y as it difpofes the parents to pay greater attention to fuch helplcfs beings. Thefe idiots arc fuffered to marry, as v^ell among themfelves as with others* I am, &c« Aa d t E T T E R m 356 LETTER i<5^ Mvnt Blanc. 357 LETTER 3(5. t » •• ' • I Pafa^^ cf tbt Tete Noire— Col de Bainie-^Mimr Blanc — Its great Elevation. u Geneva, Auguft 28. PON quitting Trient, we traverfcd fome narrow vallics. through forefts of pines, by the fide of a fmall but impetuous torrent, which takes its rife from the glacier of the fame name. The road, which is very rugged, is carried over the fleep crags of a mountain called La Tete Noire. A little way from Trient we entered the dutchy of Faucigny, fubjed to the king of Sar- dinia. Our road was very rough, till we ar- riycd at the vale of Chamouny ; the great moun- tains and glaciers of Savoy rifing majeftically be- fore us. Another Another way leads from Trient to Chamouny over the Col de Balme. I pafled it on a mule the 7th of September 1785; it is exceedingly fteep, but not dangerous, as reprefented by many travellers } for I did not even find it neceffary to difmount. The path, which is in no part bare rock, runs through a thick wood that clothes the fides of the mountain. We fet off from Trient on this expedition about half part four, with the e;5:pe(Sation of feeiilg the fuu rife on the fummit of Mont Blanc, tut were difappointed j for we did not reach the Col de Balme in Icfs than two hours, and day had already begun to break. We enjoyed, however, from the fufii- mit an extenfive profpeft, which many travellers confider as the mod fublime view in all Swit- zerland : on one fide U commands the Vallais, the alps of St. Bernard, and the diflant moun- tains of the cantons of Underwaklen and Berne ; the other comprehends Mont Blanc and the cir- cumjacent heights. I oblervcd the Point de Motijfon ; the Mortine, fupporting on its top the glacier of Buet^ on which Monfieur de Luc made his celebrated experiments to afcertain the flate of the atmofphere ; the Point de la Tour^ Lcs Aiguilles d'Argentiere ; the Aiguille de Midi, a piked rock darting out of a large raafs of fnow; and, laftly, Mrn, or the Teak of Terror*. But Mont Blafic foon re-affumed its real importance, feemed to increafe in fize and height, and folely attraded our attention, until we entered the vale of Cha- mouny. You, who are totally unacquainted with alpine fcenes, may, perhaps, conceive a faint idea of the elevation of this gigantic mountain, on being informed, that the mantle of fnow, which appears to cover its top and fides, exceeds an altitude ot four thoufand feet .perpendicular, and nine thou- fand feet in a horizontal direction from the Dome cf Goute to the fummit ; and that the height of the fnow and ice, eftimated from the fource of the Arveron, at the bottom of the glacier of Montanvert, to the fummit of Mont Blanc, can- not be lefs than twelve thoufand perpendicular feet, or near three times as high as Snojvdon, in North Wales. Five glaciers extend into this vale of Cha- mouny, and are feparated from each other by forefts, corn-fields, and meadows ; fo that large tradts of ice are blended with cultiva- tion, and perpetually (ucceed each other in the jnoft fmgular and ftriking viciflitude. Thefe glaciers, v.hich lie chiefly in the hollows of the mountains, and are fome leagues in length, unite at the foot of Mont Blanc j the highefl moun- tain • The traveller will recollea, that I am here defcribing Mont Blanc, as obferved from the Col de Balme, and the vale of ^Chamouny. Thofe who have feen it from the val- ley of ^Aoft affure me, ihat it is not on that fide covered wi h a mantle of fnow, byt exceeds even the Schreckhorn ia ruggednefs and horror. .1 ii 36o LiE T T E R 36. tain in Europe, and probably of the antient world. According to the calculations of Mr. Dc Luc, (by whofe improvement of the barometer, ele- vations are taken with a degree of accuracy be- fore unattainable), the height of this mountain above the level of the fea is 2,391^ French toifes, or 15,304 Englifh feet * 5 or, according to Sir George Schuckborough, of 15,662 feet ; which gives a difference of only 558 feet. Mr. de Luc having found the altitude of the Buet^ from thence took geometricallv the ele- vation of Mont Blanc, The labours of this ce. lebrated naturalift, and his rules for computing heights by the barometer, are to be found in his very valuable trcatife, " Sur les Modifications de VAtmofphere'* Thefe rules are explained, and his tables reduced to Englifh meafure, by Dr. Malkelyne, R. A.; and ftill more fully by Dr. Horfley : both thefe treatifes are publiflied in the Philofophical Tranfaclions for the year 1774. The accuracy of the barometrical meafure- ments made by Mr. de Luc, was verified by Sir George Schuckborough, in a number of ingeni- ous experiments towards afcertaining the eleva- tion of feveral mountains of Savov, a fliort time before I arrived at Geneva. He followed Mr. dc Luc's • In reducing the French tolfe, wliich is equal to fi\- French feet, to Engli/Ti meafure, I have confidered the pro- portion of the Engliih to the French foot as i 5 to 16. Irs real proportion, according to the accurate calculation of Sir Qeorge Schuckborough, ks t^t-Jt* o^ » 5 to 16 and a fmall fraftion : but the error in my calculation being not one toife in a thoufand, I have, in order to prevent con fufion, omitted the fmall fradion. Mmt Bhn^. S^Tt Luc*s method ; computed the heights of feve- ral mountains, reciprocally, by barometrical and geometrical obfervations ; and perceived that the former coincided almoft exaftly with the latter. Having found the elevation of the fummit of the Mole above the fur face of the lake of Geneva, he took from thence the geometrical altitude of Mont Blanc, During the courfe of thefe experiments, he was enabled to correal fome trifling errors that had crept into Mr. de Luc's calculations ; to improve (till further the difcoveries of the latter ; and has facilitated the means of taking eleva- dons, by Amplify ing the tables and rules necef- fary for that purpofe. I am convinced, from the fituation of Mont Blanc, and from its fuperior altitude above the furrounding mountains, that it exceeds the lof- ticfl: point in Switzerland, which, beyond a doubt, is, next to Mont Blanc^ the moft ele- vated ground in Europe. That it is higher than any part of Afia and Africa, is an affer- tion which can only be proved by comparing the judicious calculations of modern travellers, with the exaggerated accounts of former writers ; and by fliewing that there is probably no moun- tain in thofe two quarters of the globe, the al- titude whereof, when accurately taken, furpafles 15,000 feet. Perhaps in no inflance has the imagination of man been more given to amplification, than in afcertaining the heights of the globe. Gruner, in his defcription of the Swifs glaciers, has men- tioned the elevation of fome remarkable moun- tains, agreeably to the calculations of feveral fa- mous 352 LETTER 36. Moni Blanc, 3^3 nous geographers and travellers, both anticut and modern : Toifci. Eiig. Feet. According to Strabo, the highcft mountain of the amient world was about - 3,411 21,830 According to Rlccioli — $8,216 372,382 According to Father Kircher, who took the elevations of mountains by the uncertain method of meafuring their fhadows, ^tna is — The Peak of TeneriflF Mount Aihos ■ LariiTi in Egy.pt — 4,000 — 10,000 — 20,000 ^■r* 28>ooo 25,6 o 64,000 1 28,000 179,^00 But thefe calculations are evidently fo ex- travagant, what their exaggeration muft ftrike the moft common obfejver. If we confult more modern and rational accounts ; it appears, tliat the Peak of Teneriff and ^tna have been fre- quently fuppofed to be the higheft points of the globe. The forn\er is eftimated by fome na- tural philofophers, to be 3,009 toifes, or 19,200 feet above the level of the fea ; but, according to Feuille, this elevation is reduced to 2,070 toifes, or 13,248 feet; whereas iEtna, by the accurate computations of Mr. de Sauffure, rifes only* 1,672 toifes^ or 10,7001- feet above the fea* I •■ I • According to Sir George Schuck borough, 1/.72 toifes* «r 10,954 feet : who fays, ** 1 have ventured to compute the " height of this celebrated mountain from my own tables, «• though from an obfervation of Mr. de SaijfTure, in i 73, *• which ihat gentleman obligingly communicated lo me. ** It will ferve to lliew that this volcano is by no means •* the higheft mountain of the old world ; and that Vefu- " vius, placed upon Mount i^na, would not be equal to ♦* the the fea. Hence it will appear, that there are no mountains except thofe in America, the elevation whereof, according to Condamine, furpafles 3,000 toifes, or 19,200 feet, which are equal to the al- titude of Mont Blanc. In order, however, to determine with abfolute certainty that Mont Blanc is the higheft point of the old world, it would be ncceffary to eftimate, by the fame mode of menfuration, Mont Blanc, the Schreckhorn, thePcakof Tenerifl', the moun- tains of the Moon in Africa, the Taurus, and the Caucafus. The chain of the Caucafus has long been deem- ed the higheft mountains of Afia ; and fome phi- lofophers, upon confidering the great fuperiority of the eaftcrn rivers over the European, both in depth and breadth, have drawn a prefumptive argument, that the Afiatic mountains are much more lofty than thofe of Europe. But conjec- tures are now baniihed from natural philofophy : and, until it fhall be proved jFrom undoubted ^ calculations, ** the height of Mont Blanc, which I take to be the moft ** elevated point in Europe, Afia, and Africa." 1 am happy to find my conjedturcs corroborated by that inge- nious and accurate obfcrver. Feet. Height of vCtna, according to Sir George — » 0,954 Of Vefuvius, according to M. de Sauflure — 3i9°o » — Of both together — — — *4>S54 Height of Mont Blanc, according to Sir George i 5,66» •Differeice,« — or the height of Mont Blanc above that of iEina and Vefuvius united — 808 For ftill further information on this curious fubje^^, the read- er is referred to Mr. Trembly's Analyfi iTExperitiiceJ fur ia Mc/ure dt!S Hauturts, in SauJJures yoyaga dans Us A^fts^ vol. ii.' p. 616. 3^4 LETTER 36. calculations, that the higheft part of the Cauca- fus rifcs more than 15,000 feet above the level of the fea, Mont Blanc may be fairly confidercd as more elevated. #t. I, , , '"iiii I I. E T T E R Glaciers cf B$pn. %^5 1 E T T E R 37. Glacier of Bojfon — Montanvert — Expedition acrtjfi the Valley of Ice. jMlUGUST a3d, we mounted by the fide of the glacier of Boflbn, to les MuraiUes de glace^ fo called from their refemblance to walls : they form large ranges of ice of prodigious thicknefs and folidity, rifing abruptly from their bafe, and parallel to each other *. Some of thefe ranges appeared to us about a hundred and fifty feet high ; but, if we may believe our guides, they arc four hundred feet above their real bafc. Near them were pyramids and cones of ice of all forms and fizes, Ihooting to a very confiderablc height, in the moft beautiful and fantaftic fhapes. Erom this glacier, which we crofTed without much * In 1785, theft «wrflf//>x ^f ^/flff no longer cxiftfd. 266 LETTER 37' Glaciers of Chamouny, i^ m much difficulty, we enjoyed a fine view of the vale of Chamouny. The c:4th. We had propofcd fallying forth this morning very early, in order to vifit the val- ley of ice, in the glacier of Montanvert, and to penetrate' as far as the time would admit ; but the weather proving cloudy, and likely to rain, we deferred our departure till nine, iriaving pro- cured three guides, we afcended on horfeback about three miles : we were then obliged to dif- mount, and fcrambled up a fteep and rugged path, called '' the road of the cryftal-hunters""^ From the funimit of the Montanvert we defcend- cd to the edge of the glacier ; and made a refrefli- ing meal upon fome cold provifion which we brought with us. A large block of granite, call- ed " Lapkrre des Anglois,'' ferved us for a table 5 and near us was a hovel *, where thofe, who make expeditions towards Mont Blanc, frequently pafs the night. The fcene around us was mag- nificent and fublime ; numberlcfs rocks rifing boldly above the clouds, fome of whofe tops were bare, others covei ed with fnow. Many of thefe peaks gradually diminifhing toward their fum- mits, end in fharp points, and are called Needles. Between thefe rocks the valley of ice ftrctches fe- veral leagues in length, and is nearly a mile broad; extending on one fide towards Mont Blane, and on the other, towards the plain of Chamouny. The • Since my firft expedition. Mr. Slafr, an Engliili gentleman, faas built a more commodious wooden hur, which, from him, is called Blair's Cabin. The names of the principal needles are, Ai- guilles de Midi, de Dru, de Bouchard, de Moine, de Tacule, dc Charmeaux : and the five ghcier^^ that ftretch towards the plain of Chamouny, and unite at the foot of Mont Blanc, are called Tacona, Boflbn, Montanvert, Argentiere, and Tour. After we had fufSciently rcfrefhed ourfelves, we prepared for our adventure acrofs the ice. We had each of us a long pole fpiked with iron ; and in order to fecure us as much as poflible from flipping, the guides faftened to our Owes crampons, or fmall bars of iron, provided with four fmall fpikes of the fame metal. The dif- ficulty of eroding thefe valleys of ice, rifes from the immenfe chafms. We rolled down large ftones in feveral of them ; and the great length of time before they reached the bottom, gave us fome conception of their depth : our guides af- fured us, that in fome places they arc not lefs than five hundred feet deep. I can no otherwife convey to you an image of this body of ice, broken into irregular ridges and deep chafms, than by comparing it to a lake inftantaneoufly frozen in'the midft of a violent ftorm. We began our walk with great flownefs and deliberation, but gradually gaining courage and confidence as we advanced, we foon found that we could fafcly pafs along thofe places, where the afcent and defcent were not very confiderable, much fader even than when walking at the rate of our common pace : in other parts we leaped over the clefts, and Aid down the iteeper defccnts. In one place, where we defcended and ftepped acrofs an opening upon a narrow ridge of ice fcarcely 365 t E T T E R 37- Glaciers of Chamouny, 369 fcarccly three inches bfdad, we were obhged to tread with peculiar caution : for on each fide were chafms of a great depth. We walked fomcf paces fideways along this ridge ; ftopt acrofs the chafm into a little hollow, which the guides con- trived on purpofe for our feet ; and got up an afcent by means of fniall holes which we made with the fpikes of our poles. This account ap- pears terrible ; but at the time we had not the Icaft apprehcnfions of danger, as the guides were exceedingly careful, and took excellent precau- tions. One of the fervants had the courage to follo,w us without cramptons^ and with no nails to his {hoes ; which was certainly dangerous, on ac- count of tht flipperinefs of the leather when wetted. We had now almoft reached the oppofite fide, when being (topped by a broad chafm, we were obliged to make a circuit of above a quarter of a mile, in order to get round it. This will give you fome idea of the difliculty attending excur- fions over fome of thefe glaciers : and our guides informed us, that when ihey hunt the chamois and the marmots, thefe unavoidable circuits ge- nerally carry them fix or feven miles, when the diredt diftance is only^ two mile**, if they could proceed in a (trait line. A ftorm threatening every moment, we were obliged to haften off the glacier as faft as pofliblc : for rain renders the ice exceedingly flippery ; and in cafe of a fog, which generally accompanies a ftorm in thefe upper regions, our fituation would have been ex- tremely dangerous. And indeed we had no time to lofe ; for we had fcarcely quitted the ice before the tempeft began j , and fuoa became very vio- lent,, lent, attended with frequent flafhes of lightning, and loud peals of thunder, which being re- echoed within the hollows of the mountains, added greatly to the awful fublimity of the fcene. We now crawled for a confiderable way upon our hands and feet along a ilcep and bare rock, and down one of the mofl difficult and rugged precipiAs 1 ever defcended in Switzerland ; the florm at the fame time roaring over us, and rendering the rock extremely flippery. After much difficulty, but v/ithout the lead accident, we gained the valley of Chamouny, and re- turned to the inn, as wet as if we had been plunged int • water ; but perfeftly fatisfied with our expedition. POSTSCRIPT. In my fecond expedition to the valley of Cha- mouny, in 1785, inflead oi croffing the glacier, I afcended, in company with three l^ngli(hmen and a Swifs gentleman, from Blair's Cabin, about an hour rin^i a half, over the bare and rug- ged rocks, to a fum.nit under tie Aiguille cies Charmeaux, near the f; ot from wl ich a Genevan unfortunately fell and was dafhed to pieces. On this fummit, at the very edge of the fearftd pre- cipice which overlooks rlie vale of Chamouny, flood a colledion of (lones, about three feet high, called by the natives le bon hunune. We imme- diately raifed this heap to the height of fix feet, and piled up another of the fame elevation, which we ftyled, in the language of the country, le mo- Vol. I, B b nument ^m 370 LETTER 37- Glaciers of Chamouny. 371 nwncnt de quatre Anglois^ in memory of tlie four* Knglifhmcn who amufed thtmfclves in form- ing it. I employed an hour in afcending part of the Montanvert on horlehack ; the fame time in walking up to Blair's Cabin ; an hour and a half to the monument dc quatre AngMs ; half an hour in dcfcending to Blair's Cabin, and three quar- ters of an hour in palling from thenceH Cha- mouny. I nrade this expedition in company with M. Exchaquct, a Svvifs gentleman, native of Au- bonnc, and direftor general of the mines of Sa- voy. His repeated expeditions into thefe re- gions have enabled him to execute a model in relief of the valley of Chamouny, Mont Blanc, the circumjacent alps, and glaciers. In order to render thefe models dill more valuable to the naturalift, he collefts fpecimens of the different fpecies of ftoncs which compofc the mountains reprefented on the plan. M. Exchaquet is now employed by the government of Berne, in coii- ftruQing a model of the dillrift of Aigle. M. Exchaquet has difcovered a more com- modious route, than that hitherto followed, to afcend the Buct and Mount Breven, which are defcribcd by M. van Berchem, fecretary to the Society of Sciences at Eaufanne, in his letterf Co Mr. Wyttenbach of Berne, relating an expe- dition dition to the mines of Faucigny, and the glaciers which extend at the foot of Mont Blanc. In thefe letters the reader will find, befide much accurate and pifturefque (defcription, an account of feveral foflil and vegetable produdions of the higher alps. • Mr. Whit bread, the two Mr. Cliflford?, and myfelf. We were accompanied and allitled by M. Exchaquet, a Swifs geatlcinan, remarkable for hU numerous expeditions into thefe alps. f Excrirfion dans les Mines de Haut Faucigny, &c, Laiifiinne, 17^7. Bb3 LETTER II 372 LETTER 0°' Excurfion to tie Couvercle. 3 n LETTER -.8* Excurfion towards the Summit of the Louvercled 1 N my fubicquent expedition to the valley of Chamouny, 1 had propofed pufliing my courfe ftill further towards the glacier of Talefre, but particularly to the Couvercle, of which I had read a very curious defcription in Mr. dc Sauf- fure's work. But having hurt my foot in my afcent to the Montanvert, I was prevented from executing my intended purpofc. You will, how- ever, have no reafon to regret my difappoint- ment, on receiving the following account of that expedition, extraded from notes communicated by a friend. We quitted the Priory at fix in the morn- ing, accompanied by Michael Paccard and Marie Marie Coutet, two guides of Chamouny, Wc traverfed the plain, and afcended the Mon- tanvert through a wood of pines. We had fine views of the glacier which gives rife to jhe Arveron, and of the vale of Chamouny, chequered in a mod fingular manner with al- ternate rows of arable and pafture land. After continuing about an hour, we quitted our mules, proceeded on foot, and in about an hour and a half reached Blair's Hut, on the top of the Montanvert, where we relied for a few minutes. We then defcended to the glacier, coafled it by the path of the cryftal hunters, and in about half an hour came to fome difficult pafles called Les Ponts^ or the Bridges, which run over a perpendicular rock, at the edge of a fright- ful precipice. Thefe paffages, though flill dif- ficult, were extremely dangerous, until, by order of M. de Sauffure, the rock was in fome parts blown away with gunpowder, and fmall holes formed for the hands and feet. The firft bridcje was about forty paces in length, and the two other paffes fomevi-hat lefs difficult, of about ten paces each. In about a quarter of an hour we arrived at a fountain which drops from the roof and fides of a natural grotto, the infide whereof is overgrown with large tufts of the Ranunculus glacialis. Having walked about eight miles fince our departure from Chamouny, we fat down in this fequeftered grotto, and made our firft repaft. From hence we croffed fome fnow, the remains of a laft winter's Avalanche^ and immediately got upon the Morctine^ the term given to the ftones and 374 LETTER 38, and earth which the glaciers dirvjorge on each fide, after having received them from the iuperim- pending mountains : they are very treacherous and difficult to walk upon. 1 he ice upon which thcfc flones rell is more hard and elevated than that of the red of the glacier ; and the earth is laid in fuch regular and equable heaps, as to give the appearance of art. As we looked fruni hence over the valley of ice, it feemed imprac- ticable ; fo numerous and broad were the chafms which interfered it in every diredion, many bearing a tremendous appearance, and of an aftonilhing depth : but we foon found that it only required courage and aOivity. Inflead «)f cram- pons^ we had large nails in our flioes, which more cfFedually anfwered our'purpofe, and our fpiked flicks were on this occafion particularly fervice- able. Having defcended upon the glacier, we found the ice foftened by a warm wind, which rendered it lefs flippery than ufual. \\ e conti- nued along it about a quarter of an hour, then regained and walked along the Moraine near half an hour. We now embarked upon the great valley of ice called Glacier dcs Bois, I own not without emotion to fee ourfelves upon this extra- ordinary delert, broken into frightful chafms, through the maze of which we were to pafs. It was curious to obferve the numerous little rills produced by the collection of drops occafioned by the thawing of the ice on the upper part of the glacier : thcfe little rills hollow out fmall channels, and torrent-like precipitate themfelves into the chafms with a violent noife ; increafing the body of waters formed by the meking of the interior furface, and finding an outlet under the immcnfe Escurfion to the Couvercle, 375 immenfe arch of ice in the valley of Chamouny, from which the Arveron rufhes. This ice^vater was agreeable to the palate, and extremely re- Tre(hing from its coolnefs. The field of ice, which at firft fight feemed impervious to all but the chamois and marmot, and fcarcely pradicable even for the daring foot- fteps of man, is traverfed by flocks of flieep, driven to the fcanty pafturage which the oppofite rocks afford. The fliepherds leave them in thefc defolate fpots, and vifit them at different inter- vals. We traced their track over the ice, and faw a flock returnnig. One fhcphcrd preceded as a guide, and another followed the herd. We had the good fortune to preferve one fheep which had Urayed from the flock. As we were continuing our courfe, we were furprifcd by a loud noife ; and, looking round, perceived a large fragment of rock which had detatched itfelf from one of the higheft needles : it bounded from precipice to precipice with great rapidity, and, before it reached the bottom, was dilfolved almofl entirely into duft. Having pro- ceedcd about an hour, we were aftonifhed with a view far more magnificent than imagination can conceive: hitherto the glaciers had fcarcely an- fwered my expeftations, butnow^they far furpaifed them. Nature had clad herfelf in all her terrors. Before us was a valley of ice twenty miles in ex- tent, bounded by a circular glacier of pure un- broken fnow, called Takul, which leads diredly to the foot of Mont Blaiic, and is furrounded by large conical rocks, terminating in Iharp points like the towers of an anticnt fortiiication ; to the rif^ht rofe a ritnge of magnificent peaks, their in- ^ tervaU 37'5 LETTER 58. tervals filled with glaciers; and far above the reft, the majeftic fummit of Mont Blanc, his higheft point obfcured with clouds. He appeared of iuch immenfe magnitude, that at his prefence the circumjacent mountains, however gigantic, fcemed to flirink before him, and " hide their di- minijhcd heads^'* In half an hour we arrived at the Moraine, which forms a boundary of the valley, croflcd it, and proceeded upon a body of ice about three quarters of a mile broad. Here the ice was more even and free from chafms than in the great valley. We then puffed a fecond JMoraine, and beyond that another u.afs of ice to a third Moraine : defcending from thence, we came upon the lall ridge of ice, broader confi- derably than the two former, and full of large chafms : it is feparatcd from the rock only bv a very narrow Moraine. Thefe Moraines contain great quantities of cryftal. Here wc turned a little to the right, and af- cendcd the valley of ice, the icene every moment increafing in magnificence and horror. In a Ihort time we arrived at the foot of the Couvercle, having walked about fix miles on the ice. We now found it difficult to quit the ice; and the firil part of the defcent was really perilous. One ftep was truly dreadful : a bulging rock entirely fmooth, and prefenting a precipice of very con- fiderable depth, which was terminated by an im- menfe crevice in the ice, fcemed to forbid our progrefs : a fmall hollow, however, in the mid- dle ferved for one foot, and from thence wc bounded over to the firm ground. One guide went ♦ Milton. tlxcurfiGn to the Couvercle. 0/7 went firft, and held out his hand on the oppofite fide, whilfl: the other helped and direded us where to place our feet. We continued mount- ing along a path which now feemed without dan- ger, though very narrow and ftecp, and carried along the ridge of precipices. The fcenery around was indeed fo fublime as to banifh all ideas of fatigue and apprehenfion. Half an hour more brought us to the fide of a fountain, where we fat down to our dinner. We had now em- ployed five hours and a half from Chamouny, and notwithfianding all difficulties and neceffary halts, had walked fifteen miles, but none of us complained of fatigue. 1 he clouds beginning to gather, warned us to hafleu to the top of the Couvercle. From that ftation we had the view of three ftupendous vaU lies of ice, the glacier of Talefre to the left, in front that of I'Echaut, and the Takul to the right ; all uniting in one great valley of ice called the Glacier des Bois^ which ftre tched under our feet, and was furroundcd and ornamented by the rugged needles. The dead filence, which reigned in this place, was only interrupted by the bounding of diftant chamois, and the cries of alarm which the mar- mots gave to their tribes at our approach. Having refreihed ourfelves, we proceeded to the top of the Couvercle, a mod extraordinary rock : it has the appearance of a large irregular multilateral building placed on a mountain. The rock is granite, the afcent w^as laborious, but perfedly fecure. Towards its foot we found a bottle containing the names of two Englifhmen who had reached that place about a fortnight before. 37S LETTER 38. before, and probably flattered themrdvcs that no ftranger would go beyond them. Wc wrote our names on the reverfe of the paper, and car- ried the bottle with us to the fummit of the Cou- vcrcle. Three quarters of an hoiir brought us to the point, and we reached a rock overhanging a precipice which my eyes dared not meafurc. In this fituation we were furprifed with a thunder ftorm, which added great horror and magnifi. ccnce to the fcene. We took fhelter under an impending rock, and Hftened to the roaring of the ftorm with a mixed fenfation of fear and plea- fure. On reflc^ing in this pl^ce that we were to meafure back the fame ground, and to undergo a repetition of the fame difficulties, we were not exempted from alarm ; but recollcfting that it is the duty of man to encounter fomc dangers, in order to behold fuch glorious fcenes, we from that moment banifhed all apprehcnfions. Our view from the top of the Couvercle comprehended the fame fublime fcenes we had enjoyed from its bafe, but confiderably heightened and enlarged; and the ftupendous extent of ice appeared like a rugged expanfe of • frozen fea, bounded by the moll gigantic rocks, and terminated by Mont Blanc, the Atlas of the globe. Although we were thus entirely cnclofed be- tween ice and fnow, and barren crags, where all vegetation might be fuppofed to ceafe ; yet our eyes repofed on a triangular rock, clothed with grafs and alpine plants, and ftarting up like a fertile ifland in the midft of a defolate ocean. It is known by the name of the Garden^ and exhi- Wts a curious contraft to the furrounding dreari- During Excurfion to the Couvercle. 379^ During our expedition into the Alps, we liad frequently found occafion to remark the peculiar. ly deep fhade of blue colour in the " pure Em-^ pyreai * ;" and to-day we were more particularly affeded with this circumftance. It conveyed a nioft fublime idea of the infinity of fpace : the higher we afcended, the more beautiful it feemed; and we were informed by a perfon accuftomed to alpine fcenes, that on confiderable elevation he had frequently obferved the ftars at noon day. Our defcent from thefe icy regions was no lefs fortunate than our afcent ; we reached the Priory at feven in the afternoon, without the leaft acci- dent, and wrapt in allionifhment on the recollec- tion of fcenes, which furpafs the imagination, as much as they defy defcription. I am, &c. Milton. LETTER I m J.J J LETTER 39' Mont Blanc, u LETTER 39. Varicus attempts to reach the fummit of Mont Blanc — Succefsful Expedition of James Balma and Dr. Paccard^Of Monfieur de SauJJiire—His phyfical Obfervations. Various attempts having been made to reach the fummit of Mont Blanc, as well by the guides of Chamouny, as by Meflieurs de Sauflure and Bourrit ; a chronological account of the principal expeditions, which have at length terminated fuccefsfully, will not, perhaps, be un- intcrefting. The firfl: encerprize was formed by Mr. Cou- teran and three guides of Chamouny, Michael Paccard, Viaor TilTay, and Marie Coutet. On the thirteenth of July 1776, thefe adven- turers fet off from the Priory about eleven in in the evening- They pafled between the gla- ciers of BolTon and Tacona ; and after having employed above fourteen hours in mounting rug- ged and dangerous afcents, in croffing feveral vallies of ice, and large plains of fnow, they found thenifelvcs upon the top next to Mont Blanc. At firft fight, it appeared fcarcely a league diftant j but they foon difcovered that the clearnefs of the air, the extraordinary white- nefs of the fnow, and its great height, made it feem nearer than it was in reality : and they perceived with regret, that it would require at leaft four hours more to reach the fummit, even fuppofing it pradicable. But as the day was far advanced, and the vapours towards the fummit of Mont Blanc began to gather into clouds, they were obliged to relinquifh their enterprize. As they were returning in great hafle, one of the party flipped in attempting to leap over a chafm of ice. He held in his hand a long pole, fpiked with iron, which he ftruck into the ice ; and^ upon this he hung dreadfully fufpended for a few moments, until he was releafed by his com- panions. The danger he had jufl: efcaped, made fuch an impreflion ^ipon him, that he fainted away, and continued for fomc time in that fitu- ation : he was at length brought to himfelf, and, though confiderably bruifed, fufficiently recover- ed to be able to continue his journey. They arrived at Chamouny about eight that evening, after having employed two and twenty hours : as fome fort of recompence for fo much fatigue, they enjoy the fatisfaftion, at leaft, of having ap- proached nearer to Mont Blanc than any former adventurers. According 'I 3? 2 LETTER 39' Mont Blanc, 383 According to Sir George Schuckborough, the fiinunit to which they arrived, is more than 13,000 feet above the Mediterranean. Thefe perfons, however, did not take the neceffary pre- cautions for fo perilous an enterprize : for the expedition was not only extremely hazardous, but was alfo far too fatiguing and difficult to be accomphihed within twenty-four hours. They ought to have fet out in the morning, and to have found fome proper place in which they .might pals the night; they would then have been fufficiently refrelhed the next morning to purfue their expedition; and would not have tound themfelves, after advancing within four hours of Mont Blanc, unable to proceed, and in danger of being overtaken by darknefs in fo ifrcary a fituation. The failure of this expedition feemed for fome time to reprefs all future at- tempts to attain the top of Mont Blanc, until the indefatigable Monf. Bourrit infufed a new fplrit into the inhabitants of Chamouny. After reiterated though unfuccefsful attempts, on the 11th of September 1784, Mr. Bourrit, ac- companied by fix guides, departed from Biona- fay ; and was fcalhig, as he cxpreffes himfelf, the rampart oi Mont Blanc^when he fuddenly found himfelf fo extremely affeded by the in- tenfe cold, that he was unable to proceed. Marie Coutet and Francis Guidet, two of the guides who attended him in this expedition, had preceded their company, and afcended to the Dome of Goute, which is about 9,400 feet in a ftrait horizontal , diredion from the fummit. Marie Coutet informed me, that they pafled the Middle Dome, and walked along the the ridge between that dome and the fummit as far as fome high rocks, which appear from the vale of Chamouny like fmall points rifing out of the fnow ; but night approaching, obliged them to return. O On the 4th of September 1785, Maria Coutet and James Lambat reached a place under a rock at a c5nfiderable elevation, where they pafled the night : fetting off before fun-rife, found themfelves about feven on the Dome of Goute: and were proceeding towards the fummit, with a fair profped of fuccefs, when a violent ftorm of hail enfued, accompanied with fuch a ftrong wind, as compelled them to re- turn. On the 1 3th of September, M effieurs de Sauf- furc and Bourrit, attended by twelve guides well provided with barometers, thermometers, and other inftruments, for the purpofe of making the neceffary obfervations, departed from Biona-^ fay, and arrived ac a hut, which they had ordered- to be conftruded at Pierre Ronde 7,808 feet above the level of the fea- Here they pafled the night, and early the next morning reached the Dome of XJoute without the leaft accident, and without much difficulty \ where they were (topped by a frefli fall of fnow, into which they funk fo deep, that all further progrefe was impradicable. Mr. de Sauffure informs us, that the mercury in the barometer funk eighteen inches and a half, and that he reached an elevation of 1,290 toifes, or 8,256 Englifli feet. At length, in July 1786, fix guides of Cha- mouny having failed in another attempt, James Balma, one of the company, being overtaken by ^1 I I :?54 LETTER 39, by clarknefs, as he was-rambling upon ihe icc, miflfed his way, and paflcd the night in a fpot above the Dome of Goute, elevated more than i2,oc^ feet above the level of the fea. His youth, and the ftrength of his conftitution, having preferved him from the cffeds of the nodurnal cold in fo fevere an atmofpherc, at the approach of morn he reconnoitred the fituation, and obfervcd a part which appeared to him more eafy of accefs than any of the others that had been hitherto attempted. On his arrival at Chamouny he was feized with a very fevere indifpofition, the effect of ex- treme fatigue, and of the intenfe cold. Being attended by dodor Paccard, a phyfician of the place, James Balma communicated his obferva- •tions ; and, in gratitude for his attendance, of- fered to conduciL him to the fummit of Mont Blanc. On the 7th of Auguft, thefe two daring ad- venturers fallied from Chamouny upon this me- morable expedition, and reached before dark the mountain of La Cote^ which overhangs the up- per part of the glacier of Boffon. Here they paffed the night ; and at three in the morning purfued their route over the ,ice, afcended the Dome of Goute, paffed under the Middle Dome, and at the laft pyramid of rock turned to the caft, and continued along the ridge, which is feen from Geneva, and lies on the left of the iiimmit. Here they firfl: began to experience fuch intenfe cold, and fuch extreme fatigue, that Dr. Paccard was almoft induced to relinquifh die enterprize : being, however, encouraged by James Balma, more accuftomcd to fuch fatigu- iH Mont Blanc. 38s ing and dangerous expeditions, he followed his companion. The wind was fo violent and pierc- ing, that in order to avoid its blowing in their faces, they were obliged to walk Tideway^ for a confiderable time. About fix in the afternoon, they at length attained the fummit ofMont Blanc ; and flood triumphantly on a fpot of ground, which no one had reached before, and at the elevation of 1 5,662 feet above the fea, which is undoubtedly the highcfl point in the antient globe. They remained on the fummit no more than half an hour, the cold being fo intenfe, that the provifion was frozen in their pockets, the ink congealed in their inkhorns ; and the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer funk to 1 ^ degrees. Doftor Paccard had juft time to obferve the ftate of the barometer, which he has not communi- cated to the public. They had employed fifteen hours in afcending ; and though they again reached the mountain of La Cote in five hours, they found great dif- ficulty in defcending, their fight being debi- htated by the reflexion from the fnow. They arrived at La Cote about midnight, after twenty- hours unremitted fatigue. Having repofed them- felves two hours, they again fallied forth, and returned to Chamouny at eight in the morning. Their faces were excoriated, and their lips ex- ceedingly fwelled; Dr. Paccard was almoft blind, and his eyes continued to be affeded for a confi- derable tiiiie. We cannot expect any accurate experiments from thefe two pcrfons, to whom the glory of having firft afcended the fummit of Mont Blanc is undoubtedly due. But they prepared the way Vol. L c c for ;«6 LETTER 39- for the obfervations and difcoveries of future na- turaliits, and particuiarly of M. de SaufTure, whofe indefatigable zeal did not permit him to reft, until he had reached the top of Mont Blanc, and ipade thofe experiments which cannot fail greatly to elucidate the theory of the atmo- iphere. That able naturcdill fet out on this fuccefsfui expedition, from the valley of Chamouny, on the J 3th of Augufl, 1787. He was accompanied by eighteen guides, who carried a tent, matraffes, all neceffary accommodations, and inftruments of experimental phildfophy. They paflfed the fira night on the top of the mountain of La Cote, in a hut previoufly conftruaed for that purpofe. At four o'clock in the following afternoon they reached an elevation of 9,312 feet above the priory, or 12,762 above the level of the fea. Here they encamped, and formed an excavation in the congealed fnow, which they covered with a tent. In this icy habitation, inftead of fuffer- ing from the cold, M. de SaufTure felt fuch afuf- focating heat, from the clofencfs of the tent, and the number of perfons crouded in fo fmall a compafs, that he was frequently obliged to go into the open air in order to breathe. The next morning the whole company de- parted at feveii ; and found the afcent in fomc filaces 10 fteep, that they who preceded were obhged to hew out fteps with a hatchet. At eleven they reached the fummit of Mont Blanc. Here they continued three hours and a half, during which time M. de SaufTure enjoyed, with rapture and aftonifhment, a view the moft extenfivc as well as the moft rugged and fublimc in Mont Blanc. 387 in nature ; and made thofe obfervations which will render this expedition no longer a matter of mere curiofity. Until a complete and ample de- tail of thofe obfervations (hall be communicated to the public, you will perhaps not be difpleafed with the following particulars felefted from a temporary publication of M. de SaufTure him- felf*. ^ • He did not find the cold fo extremely piercing as was experienced by Dr. Paccard and James Balmat. By comparing his experiments on Mont Blanc with thofe made at the f;^me time by M. Senebier at Geneva, he was enabled to make the following comparifons. Reaumur's thermometer ftood in the fliade at 2^% below freezing point, or 27 of Fahrenheit ; at Geneva at 22.6, or 82 of Fahrenheit, which gives a dif- ference of near 25 degrees of Reaumur, or 4^ of Fahrenheit, between the (late of the atmofphere at both places. De Luc's barometer fell to iG.oi^^, and as it ftood at Geneva at 27,2JJ||, it gives a dif- ference of 11.2, without regarding the fraction. On eftimating the height of Mont Blanc from barometrical experiments, he found it almoft ex- actly corrcfpond with that given by Sir George Shuckborough, or 15,662 Englifli feet above the level of the fea, and which refleds the higheft honour on the accuracy of the Englilh ob- ferver. C c 2 By • A tranflation of this account, by the Rev. Mr. Martyn, profciTor of botany in the iiniverfi y of Cambridge, printed by Kearfley, forms an Appendix to his Sketch of a Tour throughr Switzerland, which I would recommend to the trafcller. 388 LETTER 39. By experiments with the hygrometer, the air on the top of Mont Blanc contained fix times lefs humidity than that of Geiieva ; and to this extreme drynefs of the atmofphere, he imputes the burning thirft which he and his companions experienced. It requires half an hour to boil water on the top of Mont Blanc, fifteen or fix- teen minutes are fufficicnt at Geneva, and four- teen or fifteen by the fea fide. By experiments on the eiedrometer, the balls diverged only three lines ; the ele^lricity was pofitive. On the fum- iiiit he noticed two butterflies on the wing ; ob- ferved, at the elevation of 1 1,392 feet above the fea, the Silene Jcaulis. or mofs campion, in flower ; and flill higher up, on the moft elevated focks, the Lichen Sulphureus and Lichen Rupejiris of Hoffman. He adds, that the fummits of Mont Blanc and the adjacent mountains are compofed of granite ; and that, after Mont Blanc, the Schreckhorn and Mount Rofa in Piedmont, appeared the moft elevated points. M. de Sauflure, as well as many of his party, found theinfelves extremely affefted by the rare- fadion of the air ; and at two began returning. They dcfcendcd a little lower than the place in which they paifed the preceding night, and ar- rived the next morning at the valley of Cha- mouny without the leaft accident ; and, as they had taken the precaution to cover their faces with crape, their flcins were not excoriated, nor their fight debilitated. On the eighth of Auguft, a few days after M. de Sauffure's expedition, Mr. Beaufoy an Englifh gentleman, Mont Blanc. 389 gentleman, fucceeded in a fimilar attempt, though It was attended with greater difficulty, arifing from the enlargement of the chafms in the ice. An account of this expedition was read before the Royal Society on the 13th of December 1787, and will probably be communicated to the public. LETTER 39^ LETTER 4Ci Glade rs. f LETTER 40. Conje^ures en the Formation and State of the Glaciers. N O fubjecl in natural hlftory is more curious than the origin of thcfe glaciers, extending into fields of corn and pafture, and lying, without be- ing melted, in a fituation, where the fun is fuf- ficient to bring the earth to maturity : for it is almoft literally true, that with one hand I could touch ice, and the other ripe corn. But as in my firft expedition to the alps my flay was ex- ceedingly (hort, I declined entering upon a fub- jed; too ifnportant to be fuperficially treated, and only threw together a few hafty remarks, which occurred to me on the fpot. But I find that thcfe remarks, however hafty and fuperficial, ferved 39 f ferved to excite your curiofity ; and have in- duced you to inquire, " Which is the moft rational fyjieinloncerning the formation of the glaciers ? Are they in ajlate of augmentation or diminution ; or d§ they remain within the fame limits f * Although in my fubfequent journeys to the alps I made this fubjccl a particular objed of rc- fearch ; and although I have attehtively perufed the principal fyftems, which have been formed concerning the formation of glaciers ; yet it is not without great diffidence, that 1 can prefume to reply to your very arduous queftions. The theory of Gruner, confirmed and amended by that able naturalift M. de SaufTure, appears to me the mod fimple and rational ; and I do not know how I can better fatisfy your curiofity, than by forming an extrad from his much efteemed work*, intcrfperfing it with a few ad- ditional remarks drawn from my own particular obfervations. If a perfon could be conveyed to fuch an ele- vation as to embrace at one view the alps of Switzerland, Savoy, and Dauphine, he would behold a vaft chain of mountains, interfered by numerous vallies, and compofcd of many parallel chains, the highefl occupying the center, and the others gradually diminilhing in proportion to their diftance from that center. The moft elevated, or central chain, would appear bridled with pointed rocks ; and covered, even in fummer, with ice and fnow, in all parts that are not abfolutely perpendicular. Qn each fide of this chain be would difcover deep vallies clothed • V.)v^gfs cles A,lps y. i. c. ;?. >9^ LETTER 40. iiii ^ clothed with verdure, peopled with numerous villages, and >yatered by many rivers. In con- fidering thefe objects with greater attention, he would remark, that the central chain is compofed of elevated peaks and diverging ridges, whofe fummits are overfpread with fnow ; that the declivities of the peaks and ridges, excepting thofe parrs that are extremely deep, are covered with fnow and ice ; and that the intermediate depths and fpaccs between them are filled with immenfe fields of ice, terminating in thofe culti- vated vallies which border the great chain. The branches mod contiguous to the central chain would prefent the fame phenomena, only in a leffer degree. At greater diftances no ice would be obferved, and fcarcely any fnow, but upon fome of the mofl elevated fummits ; and the mountains diminifhing in height and rugged- nefs, would appear covered with herbage, and gradually fink into hills and plains. In this general furvey, the glaciers may be di^ vided into two forts ; the firft occupying the deep vallies fituated in the bofom of the alps, and termed by the natives Vallees de Glace^ but which I (hall diftinguifh by the name of Lower Gla- liers ; the fecond, which clothe the fummits and fides of the mountain?, I fhall call Upper Glaciers, 1. The Lower Glaciers are by far the moft confidcrablc in extent and depth. Some ftretch feveral leagues in length ; that of des Bois in par- ticular is more than fifteen miles long, and above three in its greateft breadth. Ihe Lower Glaciers do not, as is generally imagined, communicate with each other ; and but Glaciers. 393 but few of them are parallel to the central chain : they moltly ftretch in a tranfverfe direftion, are bordered at the higher extremiry by inacceffiblc rocks, and on the other extend into the cultivated vallies. The thicknefs of the ice varies in different parts. M. de Sauffure found its general depth in the glacier des Bois from eighty to a hundred feet ; but queftions not the information of thofe who aflert, that, in fome places its thicknefs ex- ceeds even fix hundred ^^^t. Thefe immcnfc fields of ice ufually reft on an inclined plain: being pufhed forwards by the pref- fure of their own weight, and but weakly fup- ported by the rugged rocks beneath, are inter- icdled by large tranfverfe crevices ; and prefent the appearance of walls, pyramids, and other fantaftic fliapes, obferved at all heights and in all fituations, wherever the declivity is beyond thirty or forty degrees. But in thofe parts, where the plain on which they reft is horizontal, or only gently iacHned, the furface of the ice is nearly uniform ; the crevices are but few and narrow, and the travel- ler croffes them on foot, without much diffi- cuhy. The furface of the ice is not fo flippery as that of frozen pond or rivers : it is rough and gra- nulated, and is only dangerous to the paffenger, where there is a fteep defcent. It is not tranf- parent, is extremely porous and full of fmall bubbles, which feldom exceed the fize of a pea, and confequently is not fo compact as common ice : its perfcdi: refemblance to the congelation of fnow im.pregnatcd with water, in its opacity, roughnefs. i 394 LETTER 40. roughnefs, and iir the number and fmallnefs of the air-bubbles, led M. de Sauffure to conceive the following fimple and natural theory on the formation of the glaciers. An immenfe quantity of fnow is continually accumulating in the elevated vailies which are enclofed within the Alps, as well from that which falls from the clouds during nine months in the year, as from the malTes which are incef- fantly rolling from the fteep fides of the circum- jacent mountains. Part of this fnow, which is not diflblved during fummer, impregnated with rain and fnow-water, is frozen during winter, and forms that opaque and porous ice of which the Lower Glaciers arc compofed. 2. The Upper Glaciers may be fubdivided into thofe which cover the fummits, and thofe which extend along the fides of the Alps. Thofe which cover the fummits of the Alps, owe doubtlefs their origin to the fnow that falls at all fcafons of the year, and which remains nearly in its original ftate, being congealed into a hard fubftance, and not converted into ice. For although, according to the opinion of fomc phitofophers, the fummit of Mont Blanc, and of other elevated mountains, is, from the gliftening of the furface, fuppofed to be covered with pure ice ; yet it appears, both from theory and cxpe- rience, that it is not ice but fnow. For, in fo ele- vated and cold a region, there cannot be melted a quantity of fnow fufficient to impregnate with water the whole mafs, which remains undiffolved. Experience alfo juftifies this reafoning. M. de SauiTure fbund the top of Mont Blanc only en- crufted with ice, which, though of a firm con- fidence. Glaciers* 395' fiftence, was yet penetrable with a flick; and on the 'declivities of the fummit he difcovered, beneath the furface, a foft fnow without coher- ence. - ^ r ^ c ^ 1 he fubftance which clothes the fides ot the Alps is neither pure fnow like that of thefum- mits, nor ice which forms the Lower Glaciers, but 'is an affemblage of both. It contains lefs fnow than the fummits, becaufe the fummer heat has more power to dilfolve it, and becaufe the liquefied fnow defccnding from above, the mal« is penetrated with a larger quantity of water. \t contains more fnow than the Lower Glaciers, be- caufe the diffolution of the fnow is comparatively lefler. Hence the ice is even more porous, opaque, and lefs compaft than the ice of the Lower Glaciers •, and is of fo doubtful a texture as renders it, in many parts, difficult to decide, whether it may be called ice or frozen fnow. In a word : there is a regular gradation from the fnow on the fummits to the ice of the Lower Glaciers, formed by the intermediate mixture of fnow and ice, which becomes more compad and lefs porous in proportion as it approaches the Lower Glaciers, until it unites and aflimilates with them. And it is evident, that the greater or lefler degree of denhty is derived from the greater or lefler quantity of water, with which the mafs is impregated. In regard to your fecond queftion, " JVJjcther the glaciers are in a Jlate of increafe or dwiinu- iion^' though I declined on a former occafion to enter minutely upon a fubjeft, which required much accurate obfervation and repeated experi- mental inyeftigation ; yet I ventured to make one i 396 LETTER 40. Claciets. one remark, which feemed to prove the occafional increafe and diminution of the glaciers ; contrary to the opinion of fome philofophers, who main- Jain, that they continue always the fame ; and of others, who affert, that they arc continually in^ creafmg. The borders of the glacier of Montanvert, are moftly Ikirted with trees : towards its bafe a vafl arch of ice rlfes to near a hundred feet in height ; under which the Arveron rufhes with confiderable force, and in a large body of water. As we approached the ice, we pafled through a wood of firs : thofe trees w^hich (land at a little diftance from the arch are about eighty feet high, and are undoubtedly of a Very great age. Be- tween thefc and the glacier, the trees are of a later growth ; as is evident from their texture and inferior fize. Others, ftill fmaller, have been overturned and enveloped in the ice : there feems to be a kind of regular gradation in the age of thefe feveral trees, from the largefl: which arc {landing to the fmalleft that lie proftrate. Thefe facts juftly lead to the following con- clufions : — that the glacier once extended as far as the row of tall firs; that, upon its gradual diffolution, a number of trees fhot up in the very fpots which it formerly occupied ; that, fince that period, the ice has again advanced ; and has overturned the trees of later date, before they had grown to any confiderable height. To thefe circumftances, the following hSt may be added. Large (tones of granite are ufually found at a fmall diftance from the extre- mities of the glacier. Thefe ftones have certainr ly fallen from the mountains upon the ice j have been 397 been carried on in its progrefs ; and have turn." bled into the plain upon the diffolution or finking of the ice which fupported them. Thefe ftones, which the inhabitants call Moraine^ form a kind of border, towards the foot of the valley of ice, and have been pufhcd forward by the glacier in its advances : they extend even to the place oc- cupied by the larger pines. As feveral writers upon Switzerland have, in contradidtion to thefe fads, endeavoured to prove, that the fnow and ice arc continually ac- cumulating in the Alps, I fhall here throw toge- ther a few additional remarks, that may tend to confirm the contrary opinion. The Inferior Glacier of GrindclwalJ was fo confiderably diminilhed fince my firft expedition in 1776, that the fpot which its extremity then occupied was, in 17 85, removed at leaft four hundred paces from its former fite. In the val- ley of Chamouny, the Murailles de Glace^ which 1 defcribed as forming the border of the glacier of Boffon, no longer exifted ; and young trees had fhot up in the parts which were then covered by the glacier of Montanvert. The advocates^ however, for the increafe of the glaciers, admitting thefe fads, yet deny that any judgment can be formed concerning the ft ate of the more elevated regions, from what paffts in the vallies, where the fun has power to bring the fruits of the earth to maturity. They aflert that it appears, both from theory and fad, that more fnow falls, and more ice is annually formed in the Alps than can be annully diffolved. To judge from theory ; they argue, that the cold occafioned by the mafs of ice already formed oupht 39^ LETTER 40. ^ ought to augment it ftill further ; and in regard to experience, it is evident, that within the me- mory of the prefent generation, many mountains have been covered, many paftures and habitation invaded, and many paffages irrecoverably ob- ftruded by the ice. In confidering the arguments drawn from theory, we may obferve, that the caufcs which tend to the diminution of the ice, are no lefs powerful than the augmentation of the cold, which is fuppofed to occafion its indefinite in- creafe. Thefe caufes are principally; 1. rain and fleet in the lefs elevated regions ; 2. evapo- ration ; -2. defcent of the fnow and ice, both ore- cipitous and gradual ; 4. heat of the atmofphere ; 5. mean temperature of the earth. ir Ihe rain and fleet, which fall during fum- iner upon the Lower Glaciers, not only thaw the ice, but incicafe thofe rills that colleft on the furface, excavate channels, dcfcend into the clefts, and aiTifl in forming them. 2. Evaporation is a ilill more powerful caufe ; as it ads at all heights, and in all feafons. 3. The dtfcent of the fnow and ice, as dif- tinguiflied by precipitous and gradual. The precipitous, or contiual fallings of congealed fnow, termed by the natives avalanches, are de- tached either by their own weight, foftened from their hold by the heat of the fun or the warm air which blows from the fouth, or overthrown by the violent hurricanes that are extremely common in the Upper Alps. When thefe maffes are pre- cipitated into a milder air, though they may fometimes indeed refifl: the influence of heat, and form valleys of ice, yet they are more ufually dif- folved. Glaciers. 399 folved, Thefe avalanches are mod common in the Upper Glaciers ; whereas the gradual defcent of the ice is chiefly confined to the Lower Gla- ciers, and is a very powerful agent in leffenino- the aggregate mafs. All the Lower Glaciers, or vallies of ice, reft on an inclined plain, arched or hollow, and are undermined and weakened by the torrents, which are conftantly flowing, as well from the Upper Glaciers, as from their own interior fur- face. The natural tendency of a heavy body in fuch a pofition is to defcend ; and its progreffive mo- tion is accelerated in proportion to its own weight, and the greater inclination of its bafis. This propreflive motion, which ads though im- perceptibly, yet gradually and uniformly, carries the ice into thofe cuhivated plains and vallies, where the fun ripens the fruits of the field ; and where a period is neceflfarily put to its further in- creafe. If you require a proof of this imperceptible defcent, the anfwer is obvious. It is to be coU lefted from the fafts which I have already eiiu- merated ; namely, from the trees which are oc- cafionally overturned by the ice in its progrefs, and by the moraine of (tones which is obferved at the bottom of the Lower Glaciers. Thefe (tones being fimilar to the mountains of the upper alps, and efTentially different from the rocks below, muft have been conveyed by tbe ice in its defcent from the Upper Glaciers. 4. The heat of the atmofphere, or the efficacy of the fun's rays on the outward furfece of the glaciers^ I 40a LETTER 40. m m] glaciers, is too evident to require any proof, evert to thole who have never been in the alps. Another caufe of a thaw, derived front the heat of the atmofphere, which will not be ex- f>tcled by thofe who have not vifited thefe icy re- gions, is the warm winds which blow by night as well as by day in the Upper no lefs than in the Lower Glaciers. Thtfe warm winds are, during funimer, (o common in thefe parts, that I never croffed a glacier without feeling, in fome particular pofitions, a warmth fnnilar to the air of a hot- bach. 5. But as thefe two caufes only operate in fum- mcr ; and as the fun*s rays do not produce fuf- ficient eftedi: in the higheft parts, we muft have rccourfe to the mean temperature of the earth, which feems to be the greatefl: and mod power- ful agent in preventing an indefinite augmenta- tion of ice and fnow. This mean temperature, termed by fome philofophers the internal * heat of the earth, is always above the freezing point, as is evident from the heat of the fprings which iffue from the bowels of the earth. In winter, therefore, or in thofe high regions of the globe where the cold is ufually below the freezing point, \vhen any fpot of ground is covered with only a thin coat of fnow, it may be fo far cooled, to a certain • So-ne philofophers impure this conflmt thaw, which fakes place in the lower furface o( the glaciers, to an internal fjurce of heat in the earth ; bu: that opinion hai been very My refuted by feveral modern naturalifts ; the mean tem- perature of the ground being found fufficienc to account lor c// the phenomeni, local ci-cumftances excepted, which have been ufuidy alUgned ro an internal heat of the Glaciers. 401 a certain depth, by the influence of the external air, as not to be capable of diifcilving any part of the fupcrincumbent fnow* But when the mafs of fnow is of fuch a thicknefs as to proteft the furface of the ground from the effedts of the atmofpherical cold, the mean temperature, which is always above the freezing point, will be fufficient to melt the contiguous furface of fnow, and to occafion a conftant thaw, which fupplies thofe currents of water, that flow, at all feafons, from the Upper and Lower Gla- ciers. In regard to the argument derived from expe- rience, it is fuflicient to obferve, that while I admit the fadls which prove the progrefs of the ice, it by no means feems to follow that its fum is perpetually increafing. For the advocates who fupport this opinion^ while they fcrupu- loufly enumerate the places which have been in- vaded by the ice, do not take any notice of thofe parts, no lefs numerous, from which the ice has retired. During my fecond expedition into the Alps, I alfo made this point of controvcrfy a particular objeft of my refearches ; and on inquiring from the cbajfeurs^ and other perfons who frequent the mountains, the greatefl: part were of opinion that the colleftion of ice and fnow, even in the elevated regions, was by no means in a conti- nual fl:ate of augmentation ; but that while it gained in fome places it diminiflied in others; and that upon an average, the aggregate mafs was nearly the fame. 'Vv-l Vol. I. Dd LETTER 40t LETTER 41: mp LETTER 4J'- Account of the BSm^uetin, or MGuntain-GoaU. 1 Obfcrvcd at Michael Paccard's, a guide of Chamouny, a head and horns of the male bouqifetin^ or mountain-goat, and fluffed fpeci- mens of a female and a young one. As this animal is extremely rare, and inhabits the higheft and almoft inacceflible mountains, the defcnptions of it have been very inaccurate and confufed. But a new light has been lately thrown on the fubjed by Dr Girtanncr of St. Gallen, and by M. van Berchem, fccretary to the Society of Sciences at Laufanne ; and al- though. Ii V. ! I i!l''i'li;!rii''"i':nTr — n 1, i:r'"nTTni[iii! 1 ■ 1 I , .V X ^V x % ■% ^, i' 7 he Bouquetin, 403 though thefe two nataralifts differ in fome inftan- CCS, yet their joint labours have aflifted in afcer- taining the nature and cecononiy of this curious animal. The following account, therefore, of the bouquetin, is taken principally from their obfervations in Rozier's Journal, and from addi- tional information obligingly communicated to me by M. van Berchem hiinfelf. The elder naturalifts fpeak of the bouquetin as of an animal well known, and in their time by no means uncommon on the high alps of Switzerland, efpecially in the canton of Glarus and in the country of the Grifons. On the town-hall at Glarus, there is ftill a pair of horns of an extraordinary length, belonging to an ani- mal of this fpecies, formerly killed in the canton. Thefe horns are probably the fame which Ray faw in the laft century, when the natives in- formed him, that the breed was extinft in that canton. That this animal was found among the Gri- fons, appears from a letter in the poffeflion of M. de Salis Seervis, dated the 14th of October, 1574, in which the Archduke Ferdinand of Auftria requires from his bailif of Caftels, in the Pretigau, two bouquetins aHve ; adding, that he had received feveral from his predeceffors. About forty years after the date of this letter the animal began to be rare ; for a decree in the year 161 2 prohibits the chace of the bouquetin under a fine of fifty crowns, and that of the chamois from Newyear's-day to St. John, under the penalty of ten crowns. Sprecher, in his Pallas Rhetica^ D d 2 publilhed ^o4 L E T T E R 41. publifhcd in .6.7, relates that the chacc of the bouquetin was not uncommon in his time, m the values of Pregallia Vals, and "ppe En- gadina. Another law of 1633, ^o^^'!l'^Z on following year, inflids corporal punittiment on Se thVkilU oouquetin But thefe feverines could not prcfcrve the breed ; and it is probable ha thU las the epoch of their deftruaion. when he fear of their being extinft prompted govern- ment to forbid the chace*. And it is certain, that within the memory of the prefent generation no bouquetins have been found m a wild (late in t^he country of the Grifons. Thi. animal is now chiefly found upon tha^ chain which rtretches from Dauphine through Lvov to the confines of Italy, and principally o^th^ alps bordering on Mont Blanc, which ^ the moft elevated part of that cham. Its parti cular haunts are the valley of Cormayor to the fouth of Mont Blanc, thofe heights ^^hich he between Mont Blanc and the frontiers of ^he Vallais, and the mountains which border the Val Savarenche ; but it is met with more abundantly . Francifcus Niger, h his defcript.on of the G fon • J auoted by Conrad Ufner. fays, that they fp"^ t*"' „7"''^' 2, hunting, becaufe it b the armor.al bear.ng of the country. The Bouquetin. 405 Pardiur Inc Caf>ricom€ taiften tihi, Panos amia, « Arma Quod exmms, et pulchra inftgma gentis .^ Bnclongamhtncuitam^K^jens, ^'"^/"''''-^ jlax H Comua Pe^que plicas rugofa, repandaque m amoi, Formofufque nigris vilUs in morJitifs err as. «« (i- in the mountains of the valley of Cogne, which IS the frontier of the valley of Dent in Piedmont; and almoft always frequents thofe parts that have a fouthern afpe6t. The feveral names by which the bouquetin is known in different languages, are, in Greek, by Homer and Julian, A;|ayp.o?-[; Latin, Ibex^ which name has been adopted by mofl modem naturalifts ; Italian, Capra Selvatica ; German and Swifs, Steinboch, or Rock-goat, the female^ Etagne, Tbfchen Tbfchgeifs, perhaps from the Latin Ibex ; Flemilh, Wddgheit ; French, Bou- quetin, anciently Boucejlain^ the German name reverfed. Belon named it Hirciis ferns', Brilfon, Jiircus Ibex ; Linnaeus, Capra ibex ; Pennant, the Ibcx\ and Dr. Girtanner, Capra Alpina. I have adopted the name of Bouquetin, becaufe It is the provincial appellation of the animal i» the Alps. The fyftematic naturalifts agree in taking the fpecific character of the bouquetin from the beard, and the horns, which they defcribe as knobbed along the upper or anterior furface, and reclining towards the back. The male bouquetin is larger than the tame goat, but refembles it much in the outer form. The head is fmall in proportion to the body, with the muzzle. thick, comprtfTed, and a little arched. The eyes are large, round, and have much fire and brilliancy. The horns large, when of a full fizc weighing fometimes i6or i8 pounds, flatted f Moft naturalifts affirm that Homer calls this animal A4?«e«xs whereas he ftiies it «»$ «yp»o?, or the wiid-goar, adding the epiihet 'C*^»f» or wanton. I ?^ i V 4c5 LETTER 41 flatted before and rounded behind, with one or two longitudinal ridges, and many tranfverfe ridges ; which degenerate towards the tip into knobs ; the colour du{ky brown. The beard long, tawny, or dufky. The legs flender, wxth the hoofs fhort, hollow on the infide, and on the outfide terminated by a falient border, like thofe of the chamois. The body fliort, thick, and ftrong. The tail ihort, naked underneath, the reft covered with long hairs, white at the bafe and fides, black above and at the end. Space under the tail in fome tawny, in others v^hite. The coat long, but not pendent, afli-coloured. .mixed with fome hoary hairs : a black lift runs along the back ; and there is a black fpot above and below the knees. Its colour, however, like that of other animals, muft neceffarily vary ac- cording to its age and local circumftances. The female has been little noticed among na- turalifts. She is one third Icfs than the male, , and not fo corpulent * her colour is lefs tawny : her horns are very fmall, and not above eight inches long. In iliefe, and in her figure, fhe refembles a goat that has been caftrated whillt young. She has two teats, like the tame (lie- coat, and never has any beard, unlefs, perhaps, in an advanced age. The young ones are of a dirty grey colour, and the lift along the back is fcarcely difcernible. There is a ftufted fpecimen ot the malt ocu- quetin of the Alps in Mr. Parkinfon's, late Sir iVfliton Lever's, Mufeum, of which I have here given fome of the principal dimenfions, as they are not to be found in any author that ha? fallen under mv obfervation, except in Buffon s Hiitoirc ' Naturcllej The Bouquetin. 407 'Naturelle ; and thofe were taken by Mr. Dau- i)enton from a young fubjeft. Length of the head from the lower jaw to the fpace between the horns — Length from the root of the horns to the bafe or origin of the tail — Height at the fhoulder before — Height at the (houlder behind — Circumference of the body next to the fore legs — — — Circumference next the hind legs — Circumference of the neck, clofe to the fhpulders — — — - ■■ ' between the F€et Inches. - P 9i - 4 - 2 4 si - 2 7i - 3 6 - 3 i - 2 3§ cars and the horns — —14 The horns being fo remarkable a part of this animal, I ftiall here add the meafurement, not only of thofe belonging to Mr. Parkinfon, but of feveral pairs which are depofited in the Britifli Mufeum. Thofe in the fecond .and third co- lumns certainly belong to the bouquetin of the Alps. Their colour is a duiky brown. The firft of thefe is very flat before ; the fecond is not fo flat ; nehher the longitudinal nor tranfverfe ridges are fo ftrongly marked : thefe are evi- dently the horns of a very old animal. The horns in the fourth column belong alfo to the bouquetin ; but probably from fome other coun- try. Their colour is black; they are much flatter on the fides, and narrower before than the others j the longitudinal ridge is very ftrongly marked, and the tranfverfe ridges ftronger and more numerous. 1 cannot obferve any more than ■I f-i ill 4o8 LETTER 41 than one * longitudinal ridge in any ^ of the horns which I have examined, the exterior part of the front being univerfally rounded off, and the tranfverfe ridges run very little into the fides. The horns in the fifth column belong unqucfti- onably to the ^.gagrus of Pallas, which is not improbably a variety of the bouquetin. Two fine pairs of thefe were given to the Mufeum by the late duke of Northumberland. They have no anterior flat face, but a fliarp ridge, with a few knobs in front, about nine in number, and very diftant from each other; they are ftreaked tranfverfely, more evidently towards the end. Their extremities are much arched, with the points turning inwards. The co- lour is the fame with thofe of the alpine bou- quetins. D I M E > S I D N S of the horns in Mr. Parkinfon's, lare Sir Afliton Lever's, Mufeum (n. i.) and in the Britilh Mufeum. ReftJUnear direQion, or chord, from the root to the tip — Arc, or length meafured along the curvature — — Circumference at the bafe -7- Dii[l«nce between them at the bafe — — Diftancc between them at the tips — — — Number of tranfverfe ridges — m. 1. Ft. In. z J^ N9. 2. rt. In ' 9 z o o T 8 9k o 6^ S oi o I 9i a 24 2 12 N'. 3. N'4. Ft, In. Ft. In 1 c . g 3 6 i I 3 o o io| ^ o 9 N? 5. Ft. In. 1 6 zo ^4 I 3 4- o o 4 9 z 9 It * Moft natural ifts affirm, that the horns are marked with Huo longitudinal ridges; all thofe that have fallen under my obfervation have only cne interior longirudinal ridge, and a faint mark on the exterior edge, which is probably taken for the fecorui longitudinal ridge. The Bouquetin, 409 It is a common notion of the hunters, adopted by many naturalifts, that the age of a bouquetin may be eftimated by the number of tranfverfe ridges or knobs in the horns. M. van Berchem, however, affures me, frotn his own obferva- tions, that this is a vulgar error ; and that its age can only be afcertained by the number and form of the teeth, as in flieep and goats. This miftake has alfo occafioned its term of life to be fuppofed much longer than it really is. This animal increafes in bulk to the age of four years ; according, therefore, to the fyftem of the Count de Buffon, that the age is about feyen. times the growth ; its life is twenty-eight or thirty years. In a (late of tranquility, the bouquetin com- monly carries the head low ; but in running holds it high, and even bends it a little forward. He mounts a perpendicular rock of fifteen feet at three leaps, or rather three fucceflive bounds of five feet each. It does not feem as if he found any footing on the rock, appearing to touch it merely to be repelled, like an elaftic fubftance ftriking againfl: a hard body. He is not fuppofed to take more than three fucceflive leaps in this manner. If he is between two rocks which are near each other, and wants to reach the top, he leaps from the fide of one rock to the other alternately, till he has attained thefum- mit. He alfo traverfes the glaciers with rapidity \ but only when he is purfued, for otherwife he avoids them. The bouquetins feed, during the night, in the higheft woods : but the fun no fooner begins to .if 410 LETTER 4T, The Bouquetln, 411 to gild the fummits, than they quit the woody region, and mount, feeding in their pr. grels, till they have reached the molt confidcrable ht ights. They betake themfclves to the fides of tiie moun- tains which face the eaft or fourh, and lie down in the highefl places and hottell expofures : but when tht fun has finillied more than three quar- ters of its courfc, they again begin to feed, and to defcend towards the woids ; whither rhey re- tire when it is likly to fnow, and where they always pafs the winter. ILe bouquetins aiTcm- ble in flocks, confifting at the mod of ten, twelve, or fifteen; but more ufually in fmaller numbers. The males which are fix years old and upwards, haunt more elevated places than the females and younger bouquetins ; and as they advance in age are lefs fond of fociety ; they become gradually hardened againfl the effefts of extrepie cold, and frequently live entirely alone. }n fummer they feed principally on ihtgenipi and other aromatic plants which grow in the high Alps ; and in winter they eat the lichens, and broufe on bufhes and the tender flioots of trees. Ihey prefer thofc fpots where the dwarf birch and alpine willows, grow, and where rhododendron^ ihaliClrum^ and fa>:ifrages^ abound. Ihe bouquetins having their fore legs fome- what (hortcr than the hind legs, naturally af- cend with greater facility than they deicend ; for this rcafon nothing but the feverelt weather can engage them to come down into the lower re- gions J and even in winter, if there are a few fine fine days, they leave the woods and mount higher. Winter is the feafon of love with them, and principally the month of January. The females go with young five months, and confequently produce in the laft week of June, or the firft of July. At the time of parturition they feparate from the males, retire to the fide of fome rill, and generally bring forth only one young, though fome naturalifts affirm that they occafionally pro- duce two. , . The common cry of the bouquetin is a Ihort {harp whiftle, not unlike that of the chamois, but of lefs continuance : fometiraes it makes a fnort, and when young bleats. The feafon for hunting the bouquetln is to- wards the end of fummer, and in autumn, dur- ing the months of Auguft and September, when they are ufually in good condition. None but the inhabitants of the mountains engage in the chace ; for it requires not only a head that can bear to look down from the greateft heights without terror, addrefs and fure-footednefs in the moft difficult and dangerous pafles, and to be an ex- cellent markfman, but alfo much ftrength and vigour, to fupport hunger, cold, and prodigious fatigue. The moft determined hunters of bou- queuns live in the mountains of the Lower Val- lais ; for inftance, the natives of Servan, a viU- lage in a wild and pifturefque fituation, four leagues from Valorfine, and two or three froui Martigny, arc hunters ; and the bouquetins be- ing no longer found in their mountains, they bunt in thofe of the valley of Aoft, obtaining a permiffion %\ t 412 LETTER 4^. a pcrmiflion for that purpofe from the inhabi- tants. , . , . Two or three hunters ufually allociatc m this perilous occupation : th y are ar^ned w'th rifle- barrelled guns, and furnilh. d 'vith fnrdl hags of provifions ; they pafs the ninht among rocks at confiderable heights ; they ered a inii'crable hut of turf, where they lie without fire or covering, and on waking not unfrequci\tly find the en- trance bl eked up with fuow three or four feet in depth. S{Mr.cJmes,.in the purfuit of a bou- quetin, being overtaken by darknefs amid crags and precipices, they are obliged to pafs the whole night (landing, embraced in order to fupport each other, and to prevent themfelves from fleep- ing. As the bouquetins afcend into the higher regions very early in the morning, it is neceflary to gain the heights before them, otherwife they fcent the hunter and betake themfelves to flight : it would then be in vain to follow them, for when once they begin to efcape, they never (lop till they think themfelves entirely out of danger, and will even fometimes run for ten or twelve leagues. The female (hows much attachment to her voung, and even defends it againft eagles, wolves, and other enemies ; (he takes refuge in fomc ca- vern, and prefenting the head at the entrance of the hole, thus oppofes the enemy. When a bouquetin is fliot, the hunters let it cool upon the fpot, and then embowel it, put- ting the blood into one of the entrails, which is efteemed by the peafants a fovereign remedy in pleurifies and fome other diforders. A large bouquetin thus embowelled will weigh 1 80 or The Bouquetin* 413 200 pounds. A female weighs only from 70 to 80 pounds. . . t J- Some naturalids are of opinion, that the di- minution of the race of bouquetins m the Alps is owing to his fize, the monftrous length and weight of the horns, which impede him m his courfe ; becaufe he is driven into places where he can fcarcely procure fufficient nourifliment during great part of the year, where his fight be- comes debilitated, and is frequently loft by the ftrong refleaion of the fun from the ice and [now. They confider this animal rather as a native ot the fubalpine regions, which are covered during fummer with the fineft herbage, and where the bouquetins and chamois probably pailured in tranquillity, when only the lower valhes and plains were inhabited. ... 1. ^,i,,^c ^ On the contrary, it is maintained by others, that the bouquetin is endued with ftrength pro- portionate to his fize ; and though he is inferior to the chamois in livelinefs and agihty, jet he is by no means deficient in adivity ; that his horns, though large and weighty, yet from their rechn- ed pofition do not feem to be any impediment, but rather render him eflfential fervuie when he happens to fall, or purpofely throws himfelf down precipices to avoid his purfuers. They add alfo, that his natural food is rather lichens than herbs ; that he is particularly fond of the young (hoots of trees and ftirubs ; and that mall the places where he inhabits, he is found in the coldeft and rudeft mountains, and on the fteepeft rocks. From thefe circumftances, it is not improbable, that his prefent fituation and manner of h^e is an effea of nature rather than neccffity. Bchdes, I 4^4 LETTER 41 The Bouqueiln. 415, why do the chamois, who are more hunted than the bouquetin, ftill inhabit the lefs elevated re- gions ; and why are they not driven into the gla- ciers ? To account for the prefent fcarcity of the bouquetin, we need only confider the number of its enemies, in men, beads, and birds of prey. Nor is there much caufe for apprehen- fions, that the race will be extinft even in the Alps. But allowing that the bouquetin was no longer found in his native Alps, ftill we could not affirm with fo much propriety that the race was cxtina, as that it had migrated into 3 milder climate, and, with a ftate of domeftica- tion and more fucculent food, had acquired fofter manners, a form lefs rude, fmaller and fmoother horns. For it is even not improbable that the hircus ferus or bouc-cftain of Belon, the bouquetin of the Alps, the Siberian ibex, and segagrus, both fo accurately defcribed by Pal- las *, and the tame goat in all its different forms, are only varieties of the fame fpecies. Their dit- ference in fliape and manners may be fufficiently accounted for from a change of cHmate, fitua- tion, and food ; they are found to couple freely with each other ; and are aflerted to produce an offspring which is fertile. They all have a beard, which feems to be the great charaderiftic diftindion of this genus. They differ more or lefs from each other in the fhapc • Perhaps alfo the capra caucnftca, defcribed by Pallas, from the papers of Guldenftaedt, and which he repvefents as differing f'-om the aegggrus, with-which ir has been confouf^ded by fonie raiuralifts. See Ait, Feir. for 1 7 79. fliape of their horns, fize, and coat, none of which can be efteemed certain fpecific diftinc- tions. The greateft difference undoubtedly con- fifts in the horns, none of them, perhapsf ex- cept the bouquetin, having a longitudinal ridge, and fome of them being even without the tran- verfe ridges. But this difference is lefs percep- tible, in comparing the bouquetin with the Si- berian ibex, the ibex with the aegagrus, and the segagrus with the tame goat. Nor are the horns of the Alpine bouquetin fo much weightier, longer, and larger, than thofe of the abovemen- tioned animals, as to form a certain fpecific dif- tindtion *. But even if this difference (hould be ftill greater, it could never be admitted as forming a fpecific diftindtion. For the horns not only dif- fer in individuals of the fame fpecies, but in the fame * The horns of the bouquetin, as has been before obferved, are fometimes found to weigh fixteen or eighteen pounds, to be three feet in length, and to have twenty-four tranfverfe ridges. A fmgle horn of a Siberian ibex weighed, according to Pallas, eight RulTian pounds, which is one tenth lefs than an Englifh pound, and had fixteen or eighteen tranfverfe ridges. The horns of another full grown Siberian ibex meafured 2 feet 5 inches and 5 lines, along the curvature, and i foot z inches and I line, in a rectilinear direction. The honis of an segag- Tus meafured 2 feet 2 inches and 9 lines along the curvature, and I foot 4 inches in a linear direction. The horns of a full grown Caucafan goat, were 2 feet 4 inches along the curvature, and I foot 6 inches in the linear diredtion. The longitudinal ridges or ridges remain then as the only fpecific difference be- tween the horns of "the alpine bouquetin and thofe of the other fpecies. See the meafureinents in Pallas Spic. Zool. and. in his defer iption of the Capra Caucafica, in A^t Petr, for 1779- ;r •li 4i6 LETTER 4« fame individuals at different ages. If we were to attempt to arrange animals yaW/ by their horns, the difcriminations ux uld be as endlefs as uncer- tain.- But if, in the prefent inftance, the alpine bouquetin and the other fpecies of the goat ge- nus fliould be excepted from this general affer- tion, we have only to add, that M. van Berchetn poffeffes the horns of a young one, produced from the union of the bouquetin and Ihe-goat, that arc exadly fimilar to the horns of the sega- grus, which, as Pallas afferts, refemble thofe of fhe tame goat. Climate and nutriment mult have a great effeQ upon the horns of animals. The female of the bouquetin has horns very like thofe of the tame goat. It is no wonder, there- fore, if a long fervitude, an inaaive lite, an ex- change from the aromatic plants and pure air ot , the mountains to a grofs nutriment and a moilter atmofphere, fliould diminilh the horns, alter their fliape, fubduc the longitudinal ridge, and convert the knobs into wrinkles. The Count de Buffon extends the goat genus ftill further, and comprehends under it even the chamois, conjeauring that the bouquetin is the male in the original race of goats, and the cha- mois the female. The French naturalift having, at the time when he defcribed the bouquetin, never feen it in a full grown ftate, was probably induced to entertain this opinion from a faint re- femblance between the female bouquetin and the chamois. But there does not feem the leaft foundation for this notion, the chamois being an animal totally diainft from the goats, never coup- line with them, and iudicioufly clafled by Pallas ° ■ and . 1 *an^ Pendant jn the genus of antelopes. His .conjedurc,* however, that the bouquetin is the original foiirce of all the tame goats fecms to be well founded ; and has been adopted by the greateft part of fucceedlng naturalifts. •And as, according to the juft obfervations of Pallas, the aegagrus approaches nearer than the bouquetin to the tame goat in its form and horns, the ^gagrus may be the link which unites the bouquetin and the tame goat. May not the sega- grus be confidered as a race produced from The bouquetin and the tame flie-goat, or the goat and female bouquetin ? Pallas alfo conjeftures, that the iamc goat may poffibly have been propagated from the aegagrus and the Siberian ibex, which IS allowed by moft naturalifts to be the fame as the bouquetin ; and Pennant remarks, with no lefs fagacity, that the tame goats may be derived from both, as we are affured that the ibex and fhe-goat will produce a fimilar offspring. It is alfo probable, that the bouquetin is the origin of all the goat genus, becaufe it is the largeit, ftrong- eft, and dwells in the moft inhofpitable regions. For, according to the obfervarion of the fame great zoologift ♦, whom we have fo often quoted, thofe animals who are natives of the coldeft mountains muft, on defcending into the warm plains, be liable to greater changes than thofe who are formed for milder climates ; and this circumftance feems fufficient to account for the great variety obfervable in the goat genus. Some preten'.l, that the bouquetin cannot ba the original ftock from whence the goats have Vol. I. E e been • Palias. t, lit 41 8 L E T T >W^ V..,* j; »^ I been produced, becaufe, as he jn^'f «? .°°jy /^f^ loftklt lummits and rocks covered wi^b eternal inow, and feeds only oa plants peculiar to Tiif^h regions, he cannot be domefticated in a variety o?cUmItes. But this opinion .. contrad.aed by ♦ fact and experience. Stumpf, the hiftorian ot Switziland'intorms us, that the VaUaifans nea^. Sion bred up tame bouquetms N«th their goats , and Belon relates, that the Cretans tamed^he voung bouc-eftains by giving them to be fucWed bv the goats. Dr. Pallas alfo relates, that he, hL frequently feen the Siberian ibex among ,he tame goats, and mentions one m Particular at Orenburgh, which v.as leader of a tlock, and father of a numerous offspring more rc- fembling the females than himfelf. He was very different from the tame he-goats. fcarcely inferior in fize to a bouquetin two years old : m cobur and ftrength he rcfembled the wild a-- mal ; had thick horns, knobbed not keeled above, and a long rough coat, bu no where pendent, except in the beard : the black lift on Sie back was almolt obliterated. And laftly, Mr. van Berchem faw feveral tame bouquetms at Aisle. They were gentle and familiar ; and without being remarkably lively, were aa.veand graceful in all their motions. They bred with different fne-goats, and Mr. van Brechem faw ,he young ones, which feemed to form a new "Tf th-fe obfervation fcould be well founded, the {voat genus, or race of the bouquetin, is found in a wild ftate along the chain of moun- # ^ The Bcuquetin. 419 tains that traverfes the temperate parts both of Europe and Afia y on the Pyrenees and Carpa- thian mountains ; on the Taurus and Caucafus ; on the mountains of Siberia and Tartary •, in Kamtchatka ; on the iflands of the Archipelago ; in Hedsjaeas in Arabia j in India ; perhaps in Egypt and Lybiaf . Ee LETTER f A chronological lift of the authors who have men- tioned, defcribed, or figured the bouquetin and acgagrus, is here fubjoined. 1548. J. Rudolph. StJinpf C^neine EidgenofTenchaft Be- fchreibung. Zurich, folio. A good account, tranflated into Latin, inferred in Gefner's work, and tranfcribed by many fucceeding natural ift«. 1551. Conradi Gefneri Hiftoria Quadrupedum. Tiguri, folio. At page 331, &c. is an ample account, from the ancients, Stumpf, and others, with a fmall figure. At page 1099, however, it is tolerably well figured. 1554. Be!on 0'/ervi:ions. F'-ench edition, p. 20. A good defciipiion of the animnl in Crete, with a moderate figure — Latin edition, bv Clufius. 1605. p. 20. The ¥ figure fmall and very indifferent. 1617. Sprecher Pallas Rhetica. 1621. Ulyflls AldDvuidi Qundrupedum Bifulcorum Hiftoria. p. 730, fi^. 732. B:id. 1657. Join. Joniton, M D. Hiftoria Naturalis de Qjsdrupe- dibus Ainftel. folio. Page 53. t. 25. f. i. and c. 28. t, 3, the latter from Gefner. 1674- Olearii Gatterfifche Kunft Kammer. Tab. 10. fig. i. head and horus. iinus. \ Lattfanne^ 427. - . .' • ♦^ •• . - paffengers afc^nd to the upper part of the town by . fteps. But thefe inconveniences are am- ply competifated by the fublimell: views in nature, commanding the lake of -Geneva, the Pays de Vaud, and the rugged coBfl of Cha- blais; * . ^. ^^ ^The fatne year in which part of the Pays de Vaud was* conquered frgm the houTe of Savov, the bifliop o'f Laufanne retiring from the towa, the' irfhabitants. put themfelves under the pro- 4cdion and fovcrcignty of the canton of Berne ;' which confirmed and augmented their privileges* At prefent, Laufanne is governed by its own magiftrates ; has its own courts of juftice ; and, what is very* fingular, the citizens, who poflef* houfcs in the principal ftreet, enjoy the privilege of pronouncing fentcnce in criminal caufes. The- criminal is tried by the civil power : if he is found, and acknowledges himfelf guilty, the J;)urghers of this'ftreet affemble ; one of the ma- giftrates pleads in defence of the prifoner, and another againft him ; the court of juftice give their opinion upon the point of law ; and the majority of the citizens, poffeffi^g houfes in the principal ftreet, determine the penalty. If the punifliment is capital, there is, according to the letter of the law, no pardon, except it be ob- tained within twenty-four hours from the fove- reign council of Berne ; although it generally happens, that eight days are granted for that pur- pofe. When the criminal is feized within the jurifdidion of the town ; the fad is tried, and the burghers pronounce fentence, in the town- hall : in this cafe there is no appeal. But, wlien he is taken within the diftri£t of the bailif, they » ' afTemble .*^ t J. 4^8 L E t T P R f 42- affemble in his houfc ; and an ap]>eal lies from their determination to Berne. I have been the more particular in my inquiries concerning the mode of this .criminal procefs, from the ftrong refemblance* it bears, in fome rcfpecls, to our ^ trial by juries. •^ ' * * « t Here is an academy for the {Indents of this country : profeflbrs in every fcitnce arc appoint- ed by government ; and there is a tolerable libra- ly for the ufe of the public. I hive feveral times had the good fortune to tnee^ Tiffot, the cek^brated phyfician of this place ; -well known in the4iterary world for his excellent writings uponfei;eral medical fubjefts. His con- ' Irerfation is uncommonly interefting ; as, befides his fkill in his profeflion, he is well verfcd ill every branch of puite literature. His private charaft-r is no lefs refpcftable than his public ; and he is as much etleemed for his great huma- nity as for his fuperior knowledge. The church of Laufanne, formerly the cathe- dral, is a magnificent gothic building, (landing on the mod elevated part of the town. It contains, among many ©thjer fepulchres, the tomb of Amadeus the Eighth, duke of Savoy, ftyled the Solomon of his age*; but more known by* the name of the anti-pope Felix the Fifth ; who ex- hibited a fmguiar in brnce in the annals of Eu- rope, of a pcrfoM-e twice abdicating the pomp of fovereign, and twice retiring to a private ftation. Having pafled his early youth and opening manhood in the purfuits of ambition, he en- larged his dominions by the acquifition of the Genevois and Piedmount, and obtained an in- . areafe Laufanne* '> 429 ^ creafe of rank by the creftion of Savoy into a dutchy. Yet in the midfl of his greatefl fuccefs, and when fortune feemed moft propitious, the fuddcn death of a beloved wife, and a narrow efcape from aflaffination, infpired him with fuch a difguft of the world, that he refigned, in 1434, the adminiftration of his eftates to his eldellfon 9 and, accompanied with a few lords of his cOurr, retired to a palace at La Ripaille, on the bor- ders of the lake of Geneva. In this palace, which he called an hertnitage, he enjoyed, with an ap- parent indifference to the affairs of the world, a calm and tranquillity that feemed incompatible with his former afpiring ambition \ until he was fuddenly called forth to public notice iti a more exalted ftation. 1 he council of Bafle having depofed Eugenius the Fourth, induced, according to fome authors^ by the reputation which Amadeus had acquired for fandity, influenced, according to others, by his largeffcs and intrigues, raifcd the hermit of La Ripaille to the papal throne. This event took place in 1439 • ^^^ "^^^ pontiff quitting his favourite retreat, accepted the proffitred dignity, either with a real or affeded reludance, and af- fumed the name of Felix the Fifth. The aera of his difputed pontificate was marked with turbulence and anarchy. In order to avoid the ftorms which agitated Europe, and to favour the natural indolence of his temper, he frequent- ly retreated to his beloved hermitage, and di- reSed the affairs of the church from that fequef- tered corner. Confcious at length that his ac- ceptance of the papacy fcrved to widen inftead of healing the fchifni of the church \ finding that he * 4 ...1 ^%j L E t. T E R 4*. be was oppoled by th6 moft powerful princes oi Eufope ; that, on the death of his rival Eugehius, the cardinals of Rome had chofen another pope ; ind being ill fupported by the remains ot the% council of Baflc, he terminated the fchifm by refigning the papal tiara in favour of Nicholas the Fifth. In this tranfa^lion he proved hrs talents for Negotiation by obtaining the following coiw ditions : that he fhould enjoy the next rank to the pope ; that he (hould be appointed vicar of the Roman fee ; and that all the a6ls paflfcd in his pontificate fliould be valid. On his refigna- tion he fixed his refidence at La Ripaille, and died in 1451. Felix the Fifth has fhared the fate of many equivocal characters. By fome he is reprcfented as a faint, by others as covering the moft ambi- tious defigns under the mafk of fandity ; by the former, his refidence at La Ripaille is de- fcribed as the retreat of religious auftcrity ; by the latter, as the feat of luxury. In this, as in moft other cafes, both parties feem to have ex- ceeded the truth. On reviewing the principal events of his life, we may conclude, that a pa- lace built by a fovereign prince, in which he was accompanied by many lords of his court, where he inftituted an order of knighthood, and where he refided with the pomp and dignity of a fovereign pontiff", could be no common /jer^ mitage ; and that he affumed the name, rather than pa fled the life, of a hermit ; while the power 2nd rank which he fecured to himfelf, on his re- lignation of the papacy, fufficiency demonftrate, that he never intended to renounce the world. On the contrary, Ihould wc admit, that his life at i^ A: * * Lattfanne. • w 431 at La Ripaille was not embittered by penance and,' mortifications )^ yet as iio co9temporary au^^ thorsj'even thofe who were by no means partial io his character, have, lligmatifed his retirement, wS ought not haftily to conclude, xhat it was the re- treat of a mere- volupiyuary. But in whatever "^^ light his moral quahtics majr be considered, no one can withhold from him the character of an ' ^ able politician, It is not my intention to enter into a general oj particular defcription of the Roman antiqui- tie«j whicly have been found in Switzerland ; if yoiiiire carious in refearches of th^t,fort, I muft ' ref(;r you to Bochart, Miller, Spon', and other fiitiquarians, who have treated minutely of that fubje6t. I cannot, however, avoid mentioning two lately-difcovered Roman monuments, which are placed in the garden of Mr. Levade, near the church at Laufanne. * ♦ V -^^^^ fi^^ ^^ ^^ ^'^^^ ^^ white marble with red veins, and was found, in 1782, by fome work- men in digging the foundations of a houfe in the ^ town of Vevay. It is broken in a horizontal di- ' redion ; and what remains is a foot and a half long and a foot high. The infcription, though % not entire, proves it to be an altar eredted by the twentieth legion to the god Silvanus. DEO SILVANO ESFER URSUL. FIG 10 LEG. XX. The »♦ '♦ '<&l' 43* 41 * L E T T E R • 42.j^ ■ _ M The fecond monument is a Roman mile-done, ' ' ^ which was difcovered in a vineyard near Pauda, a few paces from the high road. * It bears the following infcription : f I Imp. Cscs T. M. Avg Antonino Pio • P M. Krib . Cos. III. P. P. Avent : M. P. T. * XXXVUI. This Infcription afcertains a fad long unknown t^the Swifs antiquarians. Bochart, amongothers, cxprefTes his furprlfe, that no infcription, bear- ing the name Antoninus Pius, who was fo great a benefador to the antient Helvetians, has been as yet found in Switzerland. But this mileftone, which was put up in the third confullhip of that emperor, proves the exiftence of fuch an infcrip- tion; and is probably the prelude to difco very of other monuments erefted in his honour. # i" The road from Laufanne to Vevay, runs along the fides of the mountains, between continued ranges of vineyards. The induftry of the Swifs is no where more obfervable than in thefe parts : the mountains in many places, though naturally confiding of a bare lleep rock, are thickly cover- ed with vines. The mould has been brought from other grounds, in order to create a foil, and is fupported by rows of (tones ranged in (trait lines like walls. But Road to Vcvay. 433 But this mode of culture however advantage* ous, and even nece(rary to the natives, occafions a difagreeable uniformity in the face of the coun- try. The vines alfo do not form a pleafmg and pifturefque appearance, like thofe of the Valteline*, which are carried in beautiful fef- toons from tree to tree. The plants are low, and fa(tencd to poles about four feet in height ; and the high walls which enclofe them, and border the road, frequently interrupt the view. This di(tri£t between Laufanne and Vevay is called La Vauxy and contains the two ple^nt Httle towns of Lutry and Cully ; as alfo the two villages of St. Saphorin f and Corfier : it is en- tirely hilly, rifing abruptly from the lake. Above the vineyards, are rich meadows, and a continued fore(t. Vol. I. F f Vevay, • See vol. ii. f In the church of St. Saphorin, is an antient Roman mile- ftone, found near that village, with the following infcrip- tion ; TI. CLAVDIVS. DRVSI. F. CiES. AVG. GERM. PONT. MAX. TRIB. POT. VII. IMP. XII. P. P. COS. Ull. FA XXXVII. This infcription afcertains two circumftances, which have been frequently called in queftion ; namely, that the banks of the lake of Geneva, which border this part of Switzerland, were comprifed within a Roman province, even fo early as the time of Claudius ; and alfo, that A'venticum was the chief town of this part of Helvetia : for, the mile-ftones always referred to the capital town of the province in which they were placed. From St. Saphorin to Avenches is exaftly 37iOOO paces ; which anfwer to the 37th miic-ftone. 434 LETTER 4«' Vcvay, the anticnt Vibifcum, is the principal town of the baiUiage of that name : it is clean and wellbuilt, (lands in a finall plain at the foot of the mountains on the edge of the water, and is one of the few towns in the canton of Berne which carry on any trade. The borders of this part of the lake are much more con- traded, wild, and pidurefque, than thofc about Geneva : the mountains of the Vallais and Savoy boldly projed into the water, and form a femi- circular chain that enclofes the lake, except where they are divided by the Rhone j which flows in- to it a few leagues from Vevay, Vevay is diftinguiflied as being the refidencc of Edmund Ludlow, the famous parliamentary general, whofe name (lands foremoft among the few pcrfons, who, in ihofe times of mifrule and confufion, uniformly aded with confiftency and dignity. True to his republican principles, he no lefs violently oppofcd the daring ufurpation of Cromwell, than the arbitrary meafures of Charles the Firft ; and could never be prevailed upon, either by threats or promifcs, to defert the caufc, which he confidered as the caufe of juf- tice and liberty. Being excepted, as one of the king^s judges, from the ad of indemnity palTed at the reflo- ration of Charles the Second, he wandered. Without any fixed place of refidence, until hq found an afylum from the bafe attempts of his enemies at Vevay, under the protedion of Bcmc. At the important period of the revolution, be returned to England, anxious to feryc his country under our great deliverer; and William the Char after of General tudlov). 43^ the Third, whofe mind rofe fupcrior to the nar- row prejudices of party, was no lefs defirous to employ a general of fuch approved experience and fidelity* But the king being addreffed by the Houfe of Commons to iffue a proclamation for apprehending Ludlow, at the moment his maje(ly was going to employ him ; he was ac- cordingly compelled to quit England at this critical period, and again fettled at Vevay. Wc may colled from his general charader and con-* dud, that if he had been permitted to fervc his country, he would have fuccefsfuUy employed his great military talents againft the aflfertors of bigotry and dcfpotifm ; and with the fame zeal^ which he had difplayed in oppofing an arbitrary government, would have fupported the new ad- miniflration ; when the enormous prerogatives of the crown, againft ^hich he had un(heathed his fword, were abol{(hed by law ; and the free- dom of the fubjed was eftabli(hed on the bafis of equal liberty under the authority of a limited monarch. He died in 1693, ^^ ^^^ fixty-fourth year of his age ; and was interred in the church of Ve- vay. His monument is a plain grave-ftonc of black marble, containing a Latin infcription, which is printed in Addifon's Travels. The houfc which he formerly inhabited ftands near the gate leading to the Vallais, and the following motto is infcribed over the door, which is ftill preferved out of refped to his memory, Omne folum forii f atria efi\ quia patris» The Memoirs of Ludlow are written in a (im- plc and pcrfpicuous ftile ; with the fidelity of a F f 2 man 436 LETTER 41. Meillerie. man who was aftually engaged in the fccnes which he defcribes, and with the fpirit of a gene- ral zealous in the caufe which he had efpoufed and defended. Perhaps his animated detail of the trial and execution of the Regicides is fcarcely furpaffed by any narrative in antient or modern hiftory. Nature can fcarcely form a pofition more de- lightful than that of Chatillard or Clarens. It ftands, not far from Vevay, above the village of Clarens, on an eminence, whofe gentle declivity flopes gradually towards the lake : it commands a view of that majeftic body of water, its fer- tile borders, and the bold rocks and alps of Savoy. The adjacent fcenery confifts of vine- yards, fields of corn and pafture, and rich groves of oak, afti, and Spanifh chefnut-trees. Al« though the fituation and environs harmonize with the animated fcenery in the Eloife of Rouf- feau, yet the caftle by no means accords with the defcription in the fame work. The traveller fees an oblong building with antient towers and a pent- houfe roof ; in the infide a large hall that looks like a prifon ; and the whole bears rather the antiquated appearance of a feudal manfion in- habited by fome turbulent baron, than the refi- dence of the elegant and impaffioned Julie. Oppofite to Clarens, on the other (hore of the lake, are the dark gloomy rocks of Meillerie* That village lies in the recefs of a fmall bay, at the foot of impending mountains, in fome parts gent- ly floping, and clothed to the water's edge with dark forefts ; in others naked and perpendicular, bringing 437 bringing to rccolledlion the fancied rocks of Leucate*. Thefe are the fcenes of the Nouvelle Eloife. Having obtained that novel at a circulating li- brary in Laufanne, I continued, during thefe ex. peditions, to examine the pofition of the country, and compare it with the defcriptions of Rouf- feau. Small objefts may be magnified ; but no pencil, however animated, can delineate the won- derful and fublime works of nature ; even the warm colouring of Rouflcau has not equalled the beauty of the fituations. I read with atten- tion the principal parts of that Angular per- formance ; and having now the fcenery before me, I dwelt more particularly upon that letter, ia which St. Preux relates his expedition to Meil- lerie ; wherein love and defpair are worked up almoft to madnefs. Although there are no traces of any hiftory like that of Julie in thefe parts, yet the fcenery is ftrongly marked ; and every fpot, which is mentioned in the letters, ac- tually exifts in this romantic country. Rouflcau himfelf pafled fome time at different parts on thft borders of the lake, and particularly at Meillerie, about that period of his life when he may be fuppofed to have written his Eloife. Open that performance, read that letter, and confider that part of it, where St. Preux points out the num. ber of towns and villages, the continued fertility and high cultivation of the Pays de Vaud, and contrafts ♦ Je n'ai plus qu'un mot a vous dire, 6 Julie. Vous con- noiflez Taniique ufage du r9cher de Leucatey dernier refuge dej^ amans malheureux. Ce lieu-ci lui reflemble a bieudesegards. La roche eft efcarpee, I'eau eft profonde, & je fuis au defeC- poir. i 438 LETTER 4ti contrafts it with the gloomy coaft of Chablais, exhibiting only a few towns lying on the edge of the water ; you will then fee the happy and fupcrior eflFefts of liberty under a mild and equi- table government, like that of Berne. I am, &c, Ca^le of Chillon. 439 ' LETTER 4 J. CafiU of Chillon—Villeneuve — /Ugle-^Salt-Worh of Bex and Aigk^ LETTER A RAVFLLERS not unufuaHy make an agree- able excurfion from Vevay to the falt-woris of Bex and Aigle. The road continues along a plain, with hiUs on one fide, and the lake on the other, jlal- ler's judicious diftinftion of the elevated part of this country, may from this fpot be well exemplified* The rocky alps arc feen with their pyramidal tops (hooting into the hea- vens, and incrufted with eternal ice and fnow. Snow likcwifc, at various intervals, covers the fteep flopcs beneath the afpiring peaks ; rich pafturage fucceeds ; and the bottoms are verdant with foreils of firs. The mountains, fuch as the Jura 440 LETTER 43- Cajlle of Chillon, 441 Jura and thofe rifing towards Denis and Gruyeres, are fertile in grafs, well wooded, their tops even, exteniive and arable ; and though with little ap- pearance of rock on the furface, yet internally filled with a hard yellowifti ftone fit for building, but impatient of the chiffel. The collines^ or little hills, are frequent at the foot of the mountains, and feparated by little vallies watered by fmall brooks. •* Thefurther I advanced, the nearer the moun- tains approached the lake ; their nature changed, their height increafed, and their craggy tops and wooded fides convinced me, that I was approach- ing the genuine alps. Above the woods foared, in a moft pidurefque manner, a lofty pyramidal crag called Le Dent de Jamant. The woods were firs mixed with oak. The road lay clofe to the water's edge. The caftle of Chillon, or rather thc caftellated houfe, is a large pile with round and fquare towers : it ftands on a rock in the lake, and is connefted to the land by a draw- bridge. The vaults are very fine ; the arched roofs, and the pillars which fupport it, are in a neat gothic ftile. This caflle, in 1536, was wrefted from Charles the Third of Savoy by the can- ton of Berne, aflilted by the Genevans, who fur- niftied a frigate (their naval force) to befiege it by water. In a deep dungeon, below the level of the lake, the conquerors found Bonivard, prior of St. Victor, the intrepid antagonift of the dukes of Savoy, and the great aflerter of Gene- van independence. He had been imprifoned by the Savoyards during fix years ; and, by con- ftant walking in his (hort limits, had worn a hollow in the rock. This caflle was for a ftiort time time the refidence of a bailif from Berne, until a more convenient houfe was purchafed for that officer in Vevay. About half a league further is Villeneuve, a fmall town at the extremity of the lake. This magnificent piece of water here terminates ; its breadth, at this place, is about a league. I travelled along its concave fide from Geneva to Villeneuve fifty-four miles. It is in the (hape of a crefcent ; Switzerland forms the hollow ; Savoy the convex part ; its greateft breadth is from St. Sulpice to Grande Rive, where it is twelve miles wide. Savoy affords a rude and awful boundary of afpiring alps, crag- gy and covered with the ice of ages. The coun- try from Geneva to the environs of Laufanne, flopes for a confiderable way to the margin of the lake, and is enriched with all the va- rieties which nature can beflow. The long ridge of the Jura, fertile in pafturage, and varied wdth woods, backs this beautiful traft. Near Lau- fanne the banks rife very confiderably, and form a mofl charming terrace. A few miles beyond Laufanne is a rapid defcent. Near Vevay begins a plain, which is continued far beyond the end of the lake, but contrading, by the approach of the mountains, towards the water, 'ihe colour of the water is extremely beautiful, clear, and at a diflance feems of a moft lovely blue. *' Near Geneva the coaft abounds in fmall peb- bles covered with a brown incruftation. From Geneva as far as Laufanne the fhores are fandy; but from Laufanne to Chillon appear ledges of rocks hard and calcareous: the extremity of the lake is a marfh formed by the colletled mud of the Rhone. « The ^ T LETTER 43. ** The depth is various. M. dc Luc aflured me, that on founding it he had found the greateft depth to be a hundred and fixty fathoms : like all inland la"kes enclofed within high mountains, it is fubjeft to fuddcn iiorms. " I am uncertain whether any birds frequent the lake which are not common to the reft of Switzerland. The tippet grebes * appear here in December and retire in February. The ftins are an elegant article of luxury, and fell here for about twelve or fourteen (hillings each. Thefe birds are obliged to breed in other places, this lake being almofl totally deftitute of reeds and rufhes, in \\hich they form their floating neft. From Villencuve the road runs through a beauti- ful valley, confifting of the riclicft meadow and corn land, very populous and finely wooded, and expanding to the breadth of four miles. The alps b'ound each fide, with tops broken into vaft crags of various forms. " I paflcd near La Roche, where a dire£lor of the falt-works is deputed by the government of Berne ; and which is rendered memorable by the rcfidence of Haller, who filled that office from 1758 to 1766. During his retirement in this place, that diflinguiflied man prepared for pub- lic infpedion many of his numerous publications, and particularly his immortal work on phyfio- logy. j|r " I left at a little diflance Yvorne, ruined, in 1584, by the lapfe of a mountain occafioned by an earthquake ; crofTed the torrent called La Grande Eau, and halted at Aigle, a good town, feated • Pennant's Brit. Zool. vol. ii. No. zzt. Aigle. 443 feated at the feet of fome fmall round hills pretti- ly covered with firs. This country was con- quered from the Savoyards by Berne in 1475, and was made a diftinft government confiding of four Mandemens. ^ The governor refides at Aigle. It formerly had its particular heads, the family of Torrens ; but the lafl count formally refigned his pretenfions at Berne in 1553. This government of Aigle reaches to the Pays de Vaud ; and, when under the dominion of the houfc of Savoy, was comprifed within that diftrift ; at prefent it is claflTed under the German divifion of that canton, although French is the language of the natives. Further on the valley is greatly contrafted, and fo filled with trees as to appear a great forefl. The laburnum abounds here in a wild ftate. The wood is beautifully veined, of great flrength, and much ufed for wedges and mufical inflruraents. The variety with fhort fpikes of flowers has the mofl: elegant veins, and is called the ebony of the Alps : Pliny fays its wood is the hardefl next to the ebony. The cornelian cherry is common in the hedges, and the fruit is frequently preferved with fugar. The Machaleb cherry, or Prunus Machaleh^ is to be found in thefe parts ; the wood is red, of fine fcent, and in requefl for handles of knives, it is known among cutlers by the name ofBois de St. Lucie* A pleafant-fcented water i's diflillecL from this tree ; and the feeds are ufed to give a% fragrancy to foap. " Between Aigle and Bex is a mod pidurefque view of the caflle of St. Tryphon, on the fummit of a lofty infulated rock in the middle of the plain ; U 444 LETTER 43^ Salt-works. 445 It is quite furrounded with wood, and realifes Milton's defcription of an ancient caftlc. « Bofom^d high in tufted trees!* 4 I am informed it is built of marble, which is no wonder, as a beautiful black fpecies is found very near. St. I'ryphon was a Phrygian, who is faid to have fuffered martyrdom at Nice in 25 r, at the time of the perfecution under the emperor Decius. " Bex is a fmall town at the foot of the moun- tains, five miles from the falt-works at Bevieux. Between Bex and Bevieux, I obferved the larch in great plenty. Painters, from the time of Pliny to that of Raphael, trufted their works to this wood, which the Roman naturalifl: ftiles im- moriale lignum. The wood is reckoned excellent for all works which are to lie under water ; and the borderers on the lake of Geneva prefer it for building their veiTels. In thefe parts I faw moit beautiful woods of chefnut. Haller fays that they extend fome leagues \ he alfo informs us, that they are found in other parts of Swit- zerland, and even in defert places in fome of the tranfalpine parts ; accident muft have brought them thither, as it appears from Pliny, that thefe trees were firft introduced into Europe ^rom Sardis." Upon our arrival at the falt-fprings, I put on a workman's jacket, and went into the mountain about 3,000 feet, almoft horizontally. The gallery is about fix feet high, and four broad, and is as nicely hollowed as if it had been cut with a chiflel : it is hewn in a black rock, veined in in fome places with white gypfum. The fait is procured from fome fprings, which are found within a foHd rock? perforated at a great cxpencc : the richeft fource yields twenty-eight pounds of fait per cent, and the pooreft but half a pound in the fame quantity. Near thefe fprings are feve- ral warm fources, ftrongly impregnated with ful- phur ; fome of which contain alfo a mixture of fait, and will flame if a lighted candle is put into the pipe through which they flow. No folid fait, excepting a few fmall cubes, has been as yet difco- vered ; but the mountain is replete with particles. Rocks of white gypfum or alabaftcr, mixed with bluifli clay, are common near the fprings, in the fame manner as may be obferved in the pits of Northwich, in Chefliire. After travelling in this fubterraneous paflage near three quarters of a mile, I obferved a great wheel of thirty-five feet diameter, which ferves to raife the brine from the depth of about feventy feet. From this place is a fhaft three hundred feet high, which is cut through the mountain to the furface, for the purpofc of introducing frefli air. I obferved two refervoirs hollowed in the foUd rock for holding the brine y one whereof was a hundred and fixty feet fquare, and nine in depth. Since my firft expedition to thefe pits in 1776, the workmen had pierced the rock twenty- five feet deeper, and cut a gallery a hundred fee^^ in length. They had alfo began to form a thir^^ refervoir, which is to contain 5,500 cubic feet ^^ and of this nearly half was finiflied. The brine depofited in thefe refervoirs is con- veyed, by means of two thoufand pipes, about a league to Bevieux, where the fait is extrafted. The I 44^ LETTER 43" The brine pits near Aigle contain only from two to one-half per c^nt.; and yield annually about a third as much as thqfe of Bevieux, or about 5,000 Quintals. The fait is much whiter and heavier than that of Bevieux, and confe- quently bears a higher price. Thefc falt-works, which are the only ones in Switzerland, fcarcely yield a neat yearly profit of more than ;^.30oo ; and furnifli only one- twelfth of the annual confumption in the canton. ITie remainder is procured chiefly from France, which is obliged by treaty to provide the Swifs Hates with this commodity at a moderate price : and indeed fo high is the tax upoi) fait in that kingdom, that even the French fait is fold two thirds cheaper in Switzerland, than in many parts of France*. The ordinary price of common fait throughout the canton, is at the rate of three half-pence per pound. LETTER .# • At Parii, where it is the dcarcd, a pound of fait is fold to^ about 13 fols, or about fix gencc of our money : in foine other paru of France, for inftancc in Franche Comtc, a pound cofts onljr 4 or 5 foil j bur it is furnidied to the Swifs the rate of a J flos. Lake of Joux. 447 LETTER 44- M ValUy and Lake of Jom — Orbe^^Su Barthelenu'^ Tverdun. T, Yverdun, Sept. 7. HE chain of mountains called the Jura^ begins in the canton of Zuric ; from thence ex- tends along the Rhine, in the canton and bi- fliopric of Bafle ; ftretches into the canton of Solcure and the principality of Ncuchatclj branches out towards the Pays de Vaud ; fepa- rates that country from Franche Comt^ and Bur- gundy ; and continues beyond the frontiers™^ the Genevois as far as the Rhone. In variou^ parts of the Pays dc Vaud this chain forms many elevated vallies much vifited by travellers, amongft which, not the lead remarkable, is the valley of the lake of Joux, upon the top of that part 448 LETTER 44. '% I part of the Jura called Mont Joux ; and which lies in the bailliage of Roman Moticr. This valley contains feveral neat and well-peopled vil- lages, and is beautifully checkered with wood, arable, and pafture ground. It is watered by two pidurefque lakes ; the largtd of which is called the lake of Joux. One fhore is high rock, covered with wood ; the oppofite banks form a gentle afcent, well cultivated and producing grain, backed by an abrupt ridge adorned with pines, beech, and oak. The fmaller lake, called Lac Brenet, is in its fhape more oval, and richly bordered with corn-fields and cottages. Thefe two lakes are divided by a narrow neck of land ; and over the channel or little ftreight is a wooden bridge of a fingle arch, which leads to the village of Charbonniers. Near the fmall village of Abbaye, a rivulet gufhes from the bottom of the rock, and lofes itfelf in the largeft lake. From the fmaller lake defccnds a ftream, and is loft in a hollow gulph called UEntonnoir^ or the Funnel, a name common to feveral others in this place. In this gulph feveral mills are placed, and turned by the force of the current. About two miles further, on the other fidt of the mountain, the river Orbe burfts forth, and is probably produced by the laft-mentioned ftream here ingulphed. •This little vale is very populous, containing out three thoufand inhabitants, who are re- markably induftrious. Some make watches, but the greaft part are employed in poliftiing cryftals, granites, and marcafites. In the fmall village of Point, where we lodged, the greateft part of the inhabitants bear the furnamc of Rochat j a name which Orbe. 449 which alfo runs through the village of Charbo- nierc, with the exception of only two or three families ; and is prevalent like wife in that of Abbaye : the whole number of thefe Rochats amounts to above a thoufand. I inquired whe- ther, like the bcottifli clan, they took the appeU lation from any chief; or whether they were fuppofed to be dcfcendants of the fame family : I was aiTured, that the latter is the faft, that their anceftors came originally from France. Thefe parts are much infefted with bears and wolves. In our afcent to this delightful vale, and as we defcended through a variety of hill, valley, wood, and lawn ; we had a moft extenfive profpeft, comprehending great part of the Pays de Vaud, the lake of Geneva with its mountainous bound- ary, and that of Neuchatel. Thefe two lakes appear, from that high point of view, to be nearly upon the fame level *, with no confidera- ble fwell of the country intervening. We paffed through a beautiful and pifturefque country from Romain Motier to Orbe ; which, according to antiquarians, was the moft antient town, and once the moft powerful, of all Hci- vetia. It was called Urba^ and was the capital of ^ the Pagus Urbigenus : no remains however cxift at prcfent of its antient fplendour. Some antique fortifications, an old caftle, and a round tower, are works probably of later and morq^ turbulent times; erefted, perhaps, when thi)|^ country was divided into a number of feudal fo- vereignties. Vol. I. G g I atn 4 ^ • According roMr. de Luc, the lake of Neuchatel It 159 French feet above that of Gincva. ASo LETTER 44' "I I am greatly pkafed with the romantic fitu^ tion of Orbe, the boldnefs of the fingle-archcd bridge projeding over the Orbe, the wild fcenery on the banks of that river, its frequent catarads, and with various piSurefque views in the envi- rons. Mr. Venel, an eminent furgeon of this town, has formed, under the proteftion of the govern- ment of Berne, an eftablilhment which well de- fervcs the attention of the humane and curious traveller. It is an infirmary for the reception of thofe objefts, who are born with diilorted limbs, or have by accident acquired that mif- fortune. The children are lodged and boarded in the houfc, under the care of his afllftant, who charges himfelf with all the detail of houfekeeping,^ and of inflrufting thofe, whofe • age renders it re- quifite, that their education fliould not be ne- glefted. Mr. Venel's Ikill in improving and Amplifying thofe machines neceffary for his purpofe, has been fufficiently attefted by the various cures which he has performed that way. Though he chiefly confines his attempts to infants and children, yet he has performed fcve- ral cures on adult perfons. His mod efficacious remedy is a machine which he has invented to embrace the patient's limbs when in bed. and "which is fo contrived as to adt without dillurb- ing their reft. Ingenious as his method is, yet he acknowledges, that much of his fuccefs de- pends on the mild treatment of the patients, and on having them continually under his infpcdion. 1 Was convinced indeed of the mildnefs of his treatment, Orbe. 4ji treatment, by obferving feveral of thefc children, from four to ten years of age, crawling about the ground, and diverting themfelvcs wirfi great chcerfulnefs, although cafed up in their ma- chinery. It may not perhaps be unworthy of remark, that Mr. Venel, on the admiflion of a miferable objed, takes in plaifter of Paris the mold of the diftorted limbs, in order to demon- ftrate the change that takes place. Such an cftablifhment redounds highly to the honour of Mr. Venel, and the government who protects it; and is worthy of imitation in all countries. Orbe, which is governed by its own magi* Urates, is comprifed within the bailliage of Echalens, belonging to Berne and Friburgh 1 thefe two cantons alternately fend a bailif, who refides at Echalens, and remains in office during five years. When Berne appoints the bailif, aa appeal lies from his dccifions to the fovereiga council of Friburgh ; as it does to the govern- ment of Berne, when he is nominated by Fri- burgh. By thefe means a great check is laid upon the exaftions of the bailif: and I am in- formed, that juftice is no where more equally ad- miniftered than in thefc common bailliages of th« two cantons. Perhaps one of the mofl beautiful and fineft pofitions in Switzerland is the caftle of St. Bar-* thelcmi, the feat of Count d'Affry, colonel of the Swifs guards ; and now inhabited by his fon^ count Louis d'Affry, to whom I was indebted for a moft kind and friendly reception. This antient family feat Itands on an eminence in the baiHiage of £chalens, about three miles front G g 2 Orbc/ Tverdun. 45* LETTER 44 453 ''i Orbc, near the high road which leads from lau- fanne to Yvcrdun, The fides of the eminence ^rc feathered with wood ; and below are rich fields and meadows of the fined verdure, watered by two lively torrents which unite and form the Falun. Upon the high road, the count has reared an obelifk, on which he has infcribcd, m the true fpirit of toleration and forbearance, the tol- lowing words, " Praije God, all ye nations;' in the Englifti, Latin, French, and German Ian- gu?ges. r «. r a The caftle commands a profpctt of a moll fertile and welUwoodcd country, gently broken into hill and dale ; on one fide appears a dif- lant view of the Jura and the hills of Burgundy and Franche Comte ; and, on the other, the ho- rizon is bounded by the rugged Alps in the can- ton of Berne and in the Vallais, by Mount Ve- lain, the higheft point of St. Bernard, and Mont Blanc, whofc fupcrior elevation above the fur- rounding heights is fuch, that its fummit reflects the rays of the rifing fun feveral minutes fooner, and retains thofc of the fetting fun feveral mi- nutes later than any of the circumjacent moun- tains. r J J • », From St. Barthelemi we dcfccndcd into tne plain, which ftretches to the lake of Yverdun. This plain was formerly covered as far as Entrc- roches (three leagues from its prcfent pofition) and probably further, by that lake : it is now, for a confiderablc part, a great fwamp. Withm a quarter of a mile of the town, are warm baths which are ftrongly fulphureous, and much fre- quented during the fummer months. Yverdun is large, airy, and well-built with ftonc, like the towns in the Pays de Vaud : it ftands near the lake, in a fmall ifland formed by the two branches of the river Thiclc. Between the town and the lake there is a plcafant lawn ex- tending to the water, and planted with avenues of lime-trees. Yverdun carries on fcarcely any trade, and its principal fupport arifcs from the paffage of the merchandife between Piedmont and Germany. Ihis town is celebrated for its printing-prcfs^ eflabliflied in the beginning of the prefent cen- tury ; but entirely negleded until, fomc years ago. It was renewed by Felice, a Neapolitan of learn- ing and abilities. The lake of Yverdun, or of Neuchatel, ftretches from fouth to north about twenty miles in length, and in fome places about five in breadth. Its (hores near Yverdun arc covered with country-houfes. It is fomewhat extraordinary, that the dull and taflelefs uniformity of the French gardens Ihould have been adopted by the Swifs, whofe country abounds with noble and pidurefquc fituations, and where nature wan#)ns in the moft luxuriant variety. I have frequently obferved, in the midft of thcfe romantic fcenes^ a majcftic foreft diced into regular alleys ; and at the very borders of the fine lakes, artificial pools of water edged with fun-burnt parterres. If any perfon fliould, in this inftance, accufc me of national prejudice, let me exclaim with Voltaire, who certainly cannot be convifled of partiality to th.c Englifh ; ^ Jardins 4^4 i . . LETTER Jar dins plant es in fymmftriet Arhrti nains tir s au corteau, Celu qui *vous m^t au rifutau En *uatn s applaud' t^ fe recrit ; En *voyant ce pit it morceau^ \imdtns il fuut q"e je . ous fuit, 1)Qp d'urt me rnj'Ati et, m\nnuie J'tdime nisux ces njuj^es Jorets La nature lihre et hardie hreguliere dans fes traits f accords aruec ma faintaifie. 44' I am, &c. LETTER Vran/on, 455 LETTER 45. Cranfon-^Neuchatel'-^Mr. Purfs Bmef anions. w E (kJrted the weft fide of the lake of Ncuchatel through Granfon, the principal town of a bailliagc of that name, belonging to Berne and Friburgh, and remarkable for the battle in which Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy, was defeated by the Swifs in 14-: 6. We entered the principality of Neuchatel about fix miles from that town, and pafled through St. Aubin, Boudri, Colombier, lying pleafantly upon the borders of the water. The road runs along the fide of the Jtira, through a country t^iat refembled, in fomc meafure, the diftria of I .a Vaux, between Lau- fanne and Vevay : the fides of the Jura are al- moft the whole way covered with vines, fupported in 456 LETTER 45. in many parts by low (lone walls. The borders of this lake arc more uniform than thofc of the lake uf Geneva ; and do not rife into fuch high, irregular, and grotefque Alps as the coaft of Chablais. Towards Granfon and St. Aubin, the country is more divcrfified with meadows and corn-fields ; nearer to Neuchatel the fum- mits of the mountains are clothed with foreft, and the midland and lower parts entirely planted with vines.. Between the lake and the Jura feveral rivers burft from the rock in confiderable ftreams ; and, after turning feveral mills, fall into the lake at a little diftance from their fource. The largell is that of La ^erriere, near a fmall village of the fame name, which we croflled in our way to Co* lombicr, where we dined with a family whofe acquaintance we had formed at the baths of Leuk. We paffed a very agreeable day with thefe amiable perfons ; by whom we were re- ceived with that franknefs and unafFefted cafe which charaderifes true politenefs. After dinner fome muficians of the country performed the Renz des vaches : that famous air \vhich was forbidden to be played among theSwifs troops in the French fcrvice ; as it awakened in the foldiers fuch a longing recolledion of their native country, that it often produced in them a fettled melancholy, and occafioned frequent de- fertion. The French call this fpecies of patriotic regret, la maladie dii pays. There is nothing peculiarly ftriking in the tune ; but, as it is corn- pofed of the moil fimple notes, the powerful ef- feft of its melody upon the Swifs foldiers, in a foreign land, is the iefs furpriling. Nothing in- deed Neuchatel. 457 deed revives fo lively a remembrance of former fcenes, as a piece of favourite mufic which we were accuftomcd to hear amid our earlieft and dcareft connexions : upon fuch an occafion, a long train of afft ciated ideas will neceflarily arife in the mind, and, if not totally felfifh, melt it into tendernefs. To ufe the language of poe- There is infoulsa fympathy luith founds, Wherroer 1 have heard /i kindred melody, the fcene recurs^ Andnuitf^ It all its pleafures and its pains •. It is pbferyable, thajt thofe who inhabit mountainous countries are mpft fubjed to this maladie du pays ^ becaufe their habits of life are effentially different from the cpfloms and man- ners of other parts. Accordingly, the Scotch highlanders, and the Bifcayans, as well as the Swifs, when abfent from their country, are pecu- liarly apt to be affeded with every circumltancc that recalls it to their minds. The town of Neucharel is fmall, and contains about 3,000 fouls. It lies partly upon the little plain between the lake and the Jura, and partly upon the declivity of that mountain : in confe- quence of which fituation, fome of its ftreets are very deep. At the commencement of the pre- fent century, commerce was almoft wholly a ftranger in this town ; as the ridiculous pride of its being deemed degrading, generally prevailed among the inhabitants. 1 his fenfelefs prejudice is now, however, nearly cxtinguilhed. The chief article • Cov.per% Talk, book vi. 458 LETTER 4S Neuchatel. ^51 article of exportation is wine, proJuccd from the neighbouring vineyards, and much efttemed. Manufaftures a)fo of printed linens and cottont have been eftablifhed with fuccefs : and within thefc few years, feveral merchants have raifcd hrge fortunes. POSTSCRIPT. ^ . * Oa. 3, 1 786. The mildnefs of the government, and the general well-being of the inhabitants, are vifibly demonftrated from the increafe of population among the natives, and the prodigious influx of fcttlers. The number of fouls in the principality of Neuchatel and Vallengin being, in 1752, only sSjOi; fubjefts, atid 4,318 aliens, amounted, in 1784, to3i,576fubjecls, and 9,704 aliens, which gives an increafe of near a fourth part within the fpace of thirty-two years. The facility of acquiring the burgherfhip of Neuchatel, has alfo prevented any dccreafe of its inhabitants. Thus the magiflratcs, between the years 1760 and 1770, admitted forty-one bur- ghers; from 1 770 to 1780, forty.fix; from 1780 to 1785, fifty.onc ; in all, a hundred and thirty- eight. Many of thefe fettlers had children be- fore they purchafed the burgherfhip ; and thirty- eight were foreigners, cither German, French^ or Swifs. , Several public works and buildings have been lately executed at Neuchatel, at an expence far exceeding the revenues, or even wants of this little little ftatc. Amongft others I fliall mention a fupcrb caufeway leading towards the valley of St. Imier, and a town-houfe, which is built of fuch folid materials, as if it was intended to fur- vive to the mod diftant pofterity, and to rival the duration of the much-famed Roman capi- $ol*. The perfon, to whom the burghers of Neu- chatel principally owe the embcllifhment of their town, is Mr. David Pury, late banker of the court of Li(bon. He was a citizen of Neuchatel, and was born in 1709 : his father was mayor of Ligniercs, afterwards colonel and juftice of peace in South Carolina, and founder of Purif- burgh. Having received his education in his native town, he quitted it, as fome fay, in great poverty, and repaired to Geneva, where he paflcd his apprenticefliip, but in what houfe, or in what trade, the perfon, who obligingly furnilhed me with thefe anecdotes, does not mention. Frorn Geneva he went to London, and aded as one of the clerks to an eminent merchant who traffick- ed in precious ftones, and where he acquired a great ikill for eftimating at fight the value of diamonds. After a long refidencc in England, he eftablifhed himfelf in Liibon, and carried on a very extenfive commerce, particularly in bra- zil-wood and precious ftones. Being appointed court-banker, he rapidly incrcafed his fortune. This generous man, however, did not, with a parfimony not unufual in perfons who have en- riched theinfelves by commerce, confign his mo- ney to his coffers, or fparingly diftribute his lar- gefles : * Ofpitoli IMMOBILE faxum, Virgil. 4^0 LETTER 45' geffes : on the contrary, while livinjj, he re- mitted large fums of money to his native town ; and being unmarried, and having none but dif- taut relations, left his country his heir. The fol- lowing is a lift of the fums which he gave away, eitJier in charitable donations, or for the improve- ment of Ncuchatel. From the year 1771 to 1786, ;^. 100 annually for the poor of Neuchatel, and the fame funi for thofe of Vallengin, which, for fifteen vears, amounts to ;f .3,000 Different fums at various periods, and for divers ufes, to January '785, amounting to £. 1 5,900 lo this mud be added the purchafe of near 7,000 tickets in the lottery, towards railing a fund for building and endow- ing an hofpital ; which tickets he alfo prefented- to the faid hofpital. He died on the 31ft of May 1785 ; and the remains of his fortune, bequeathed to his country, after the payment of a few legacies, does not fall (hort of ;^. 160,000, which, together with the contributions in his life-time, render his bencfadlions equal to almoft His grateful country obtained from the king of Pruffia the title of baron in his favour ; a title which, through his (ingular modefty, he neither bore nor ufcd in the fignature of his letters. The citizens of Neuchatel have alfo placed the por- trait of this generous benefactor in one of the apartments in which government affembles ; and have ordered a marble bud to be executed for the new townhoufe. The large legacy which Pury has bequeathed to the town, being more than fufficient to com- plete the buildings and public works, it would well ^y''. Neuchatel, 461 well become the wifdom of government to em- ploy part of the remainder, rather in ufeful un- dertakings, than in the conftruclion of new edi- fices, which are not wanted. With refpeft to thofe works, which regard the health and con- venience of the town, it may be fufficient to hint, that the public walks, which are now much neglefted, might be improved ; the ftreets, which are extremely dirty, be cleafed ; and the torrent, which traverfes the town and threatens it with frequent inundations, may be turned. But par* ticularly a large field is open for the protcdion and encouragement of literature ; for even in the effential article of education this place is fo deficient, that it can fcarccly be faid to poffefs a finglc feminary ; confequently the inhabitants, though endov/ed with lively parts and good ca- pacities, arc yet much lefs informed than thofe of the other Proteftant towns in Switzerland. A new fpirit may be given to the ftudy of the arts and fciences ; and the feminary may be rendered of great public utility by appointing tv^o or three proTeffors for the inftrudion of youth. 1 hus fu- ture generations enlightened by means of this be- nefaction, will repeat with fatisfaCtion the name of Pury ; joining in their grateful commemorations thofe magiftrates, who firft opened the fources of fcience and literature, and taught them to flow for the improvement of a diftant pofterity. -■ ? LETTER n 463 LETTER 46. LETTER 46. Expedition to Lode and Chaux de Fond. 1 Nenchatel, Sept. u. ^ A M charmed with an expedition to the fum- mit of the Jura ; and will give you a fhort ac- count of it, while the impreffion remains warm upon my mind. The principality of Ncuchatel and Vallcngin, ftrctchcs from the lake to the limits of Franchc Comt6 ; containing in length, from north to fouth, about twelve leagues, and about fix in its greatcft breadth. The diftrid of Neuchatel oc- cupics all the plain, together with the lower parts of the mountains; while Vallengin is totally en- clofed within the Jura. Parallel chains of the Jura run. from eafl to weft, and form, in the moll Lock and Chaux de Fond. 4S3 moft elevated parts, feveral valleys. The lower grounds of this chain are arable lands and vine- yards : the higher confift of large tradts of foreft, which in many parts have been cleared, and cojti- verted into confiderable paftures, intermixed with fome fields of barley and oats. But the Angular genius and induftry of the numerous in- habitants, particularly demand the attention of everv curious traveller. W e paffed through Vallengin^ the capital of the diftridt of that name ; a fmall open burgh^ with a modern caftle buih on fome antient ruins. We then croiTed the Val de Ruz, which contains above twenty villages, fituated at the foot of the mountains which border the valley : the inhabi- tants in general are employed in agricuhure, fome few excepted, who follow occafionally the me- chanical arts. We arrived about mid-day at La Chaux de Fond, a large handfome village lying in a broad valley which reaches to Franche Comte : from thence we proceeded to Locle, through a con- tinued range of pleafing cottages, which ikirt both fides of the road ; and are fcattered like- wife over the country. As thefe two little towns or villages carry on the fame commerce ; I fliall comprehend them both under one common de- fcription. La Chaux de Fond and Locle, together with the diftrids belonging to them, may contain about fix thoufand inhabitants, remarkably dif- tinguilhed for their genius, induftry, and fkil} in the mechanical arts. They carry on an ex- tcnfive commerce in lace, ftockings, cutlery, ?nd other merchandife of their own manufafture : but 464 LETTER 4<5- Locle and Cham dc Fond. but watch-making, and every branch of clock- work, are the articles in which they particularly excel. They not only make every utenfil em- ployed in thofc arts, but have invented fcveral : anu all forts of workmen neceflary for the com- pletion of that branch of bufmefs, fuch as pain- ters, enamellers, engravers, and gilders, are found in thcfe villages ; where, upon an average, about forty thoufand watches arc yearly made. The genius and induflry, indeed, obfcrvable upon thefe mountains, exhibit a fcene uncom- monly pleafuig. As every individual is furc, not only of obtaining a comfortable maintenance for hiiiifelf, but alfo of foon placing his children in a way of procuring their own livelihood j the people marry very early. Not many years ago, the greateft part of thefe valleys was almoft one continued forcil ; but the wonder-working powers of induftry have happily changed the fcene into flourifliing villages and fertile paftures. The increafe of population will appear from the following faft : Formerly the produce of the country was more than fufficient for the confumption of the inhabitants ; at pre- fent, although confiderably more cultivated, it fcarccly furnidies an eighth part of the provifions neceflary for interior confumption : the remain- der is dra^vn from Tranche Comt6. And no wonder ; for, bcfide the natural efFed of their frequent and early marriages ; every ftranger, who brings a certificate of his good behaviour, is at liberty to fettle, and to follow any trade, without the lead rcftriftion. Here, no appren- ticeftiip is neceflary ; nothing is contraband j and induftry exerts herfelf untaxed. Befide 465 Befide thofe particular arts I have already men- tioned, feveral inhabitants of Locle and La Chaux de Fond arc well (killed in other branches of mechanical fciencc, and have invented ufefiil mathematical and aft:ronomical inftrruments. Among thofe who have eminently diftinguiftied themfelves in this way, is the famous Jaquct Droz, who IS now at Paris ; and whofe fon ex- hibited m England feveral automatical figures of a very fingular and furprifing confl:ruftion^ one played upon the harpfichord ; another drew land- scapes ; and, what is ftill more extraordinary, a third copied any word prcfentcd to it, or wrote down whatever was dilated by any of the com- pany. Thefe are certainly wonderful inventions, and feem to exalt the powers of mechanifm ; but ftill they arc mere toys, and an unworthy wafte of great genius: it is Swift making riddles* How much more laudably, and with equal fuccefs, might the fame talents and application have been exerted in improving, or adding to, thofe inft:ru- ments and apparatus, which are iieceflTary to the aftronomer and natural philofopher ! The origin of watch-making in thefe pans, as related by Mr. Ofterwald, the hiftoriographer of thefe mountains, is extTemely curious ; and the truth of his account was confirmed ^to me by fe- veral artifl:s both of Locle and La Cbaux dc Fond. In 1679^ one of the inhabitants brought from London a watch ; which being out of order, he entrufl:ed it to Daniel John Richard, of La Sagnc. Richard, after examining the mecha- nifm with great attention, determined to attempt making a watch from the model before him : but to this end he vva« dcftitute of every other aflifl:- VoL. I. . H h ancc 466 LETTER 46- ancc than the powers of his own native genius. Accordingly he employed a whole year m invent- inff and finiftiing the fcveral inftruments previ- oufly neceflary for his purpofe ; and in fix months from that period (by the fole force of his own penetrating and perfevering talents) he produced a complete watch. But his ambition and in- duftry did not ttophere: befide applying him- felf fucccfsfully to the invention of feveral new inftruments ufeful for the perfedion of his work, he took a journey to Geneva, where he gained confiderable information in the art. He conti- nued for fome time the only watchmaker in thefe parts ; but bufinefs increafmg, he inftrud- cd feveral affociatcs ; by whofe affiftance he was enabled to fupply from his fingle (hop all the demands of the neighbouring country. 1 owards the beginning of the prefent century he removed to Lode, where he died in 1741, leaving five fons who followed their father's occupation. The'knowledge and praftice of the art gradually fpread itfelf, and is now become almoft the uni- verfal bufmefs of the inhabitants, and may be deemed the principal caufc of the population ob- fervable in thefe mountains. The inventive genius of this mechanical peo- ple is not merely obfervable in the above-men- fioned articles, but difcovers itfelf upon all oc- cafions where it can be applied to the purpofes ot their convenience and accommodations, lo pive an inftance : the rocks in moft parts of the alps being exceedingly hard and folid, the waters ufually make their way along their fides, and Tulh down in perpetual torrents : but the itrata which compofe the Jura being Icfs firm and com- Lode and Chaux de Fond. 467 fjafl: ; the rains and melted fnow penetrating into the crevices, form fubterraneous channels, and iffue in rivulets at the bottom of the moun- tains. Now the pcafants, in order to avail them- felves of this peculiarity, have, in the midft of thefe fubterraneous channels, and with much labour, ere£bcd mills, which are turned by the defccnding torrents. For this purpofe the build- ers have conftruded wheels, in places where it feemed fcarcely pradicable ; have invented new modes of fcaffolding, and a great variety of other ingenious contrivances in order to facilitate their work. The natives of thefe diftriSs are exceedingly courteous to ftrangers who vifit their country. They are in general very well informed in feve- ral branches of knowledge ; and, as they ufually employ their leifure hours in reading, many of the villages contain circulating libraries. The houfes are plaiftcred and whitewaflied ; though fmall, are commodious and well-built ; and furniftied with a degree of neatnefs, and even elegance, peculiarly ftriking in thefe fequeftered mountains. The rock which forms the bafe of the Jura, is moftly compofed of calcareous ftone ; and per- haps there is no fpot in Europe where are found fo large a quantity of petrified fhells and marine plants in fo fmall a fpace. Near Lode I obferved a ridge of hills, that feemed to confift entirely of pierres arborifees, or ftones bearing the impreffion of plants. In returning, we had a moft fublime profped of the lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat v;ith the high and rugged chains of Alps ftretchl H h 2 ing 468 ^^ ^^^ ^^1^ MHi aB||||. ^g| LETTER 46- ing from the cantons of Berne and Friburgh, at far as the VaDais, and the mountains of Chablais. Such perfect eafe and plenty reigns through- out thefe mountains, that I fcarccly faw one ob- jed of poverty : the natural effeds of induftry under a mild and equitable government. It is of thefe vallies, and of iheir inhabitants, that Rouffeau gives fo enchanting a defcription in his letter to D'Alen^bcrt : to which I refer you. I am, &c* Government of Neuchateh 469 LETTER 47. Government of NeuchateL LETTER £)Y the death of the duchefs of Nemours, m 1707, the fovereignty of Neuchatei and Val- lengin became vacant ; and being claimed by Frederic the Firft, king of Pruffia, as heir to the prince of Orange, his right was acknowledged by the dates of the country. Upon his death it defccnded to his fon Frederic William, who tranf- mitted it with his other dominions to Frederic the Second, The conftitution of Neuchatei is a limited monarchy. The machine of this government is indeed aduated by fuch nice fprings, and its wheels are fo exceedingly complicated, that it is very difficult for a ftranger to diftinguifh, with any 470 LETTER 47 Government of Neuchafeh 47 » any degree of accuracy, the prerogatives of the fovereign, and the franchifes of the people : par- ticularly as fomc, even of their mod important privileges, depend upon mutual acquiefcence and immemorial cuftom, and not upon written laws. I (hall endeavour, however, to trace the princi- pal features of thi& government ; the refult ot my beft inquiries during my continuance at Neuchatel. Upon the acceffion of Frederic the Firft, cer- tain general articles, which in a great meafure cftablifhed the prerogatives of the prince, and the liberties of the fubjed, were figned and rati- fied by the king. * Befide thefe general articles, which his prefent majefty upon his acceffion pro- xnifed to preferve inviolate ; others were add- cd at the pacification of 1768 : which finifhed the difpute between the fovereign and fubjeft. By this pacification, the king not only renewed his affent to the general articles ; but alfo explained them, wherever their tenor had been miftaken ; cxprefsly confirming alfo feveral other privileges in favour of the people, which had hitherto been equivocal, or not duly obferved. The moft important of thefe general articles are: _ • • u 1. The fovereign promifes to maintain tne Reformed religion as by law eftabUflicd ; and to tolerate no other fed, except within the diftrias of Landeron and Creffier, where the Catholic re- ligion is dominant. 2. No pcrfon but a native of the country is capable of holding any civil or military charge, excepting that of governor, who may be a to- reloncr ; and the fame incapacity is extended even ^ to to natives, who are in ^he fervice of a foreign prince. 3. All the fubjeSs have a right to enter into the fervice of a foreign power ; provided that power is not in aftual war againft the prince, a$ fovereign of Neuchatel : and if the fovereign fliould be engaged in hoftilities, which do not concern Neuchatel, that ftate may continue neu- ter, except the Helvetic body (hould be involved in the conteft*. 4. Juftice (hall be equitably adminiftered : and, for this purpofe, the three eftates of Neu- chatel and Vallengin (hall be annually affcm- blcd. 5. The magiftrates and officers of juftice, in- ftead of holding their employments during plea- fure, (hall enjoy them during their good beha- ^ lour. ♦ The latter claufe of this article is not fo clearly worded as it might have been ; from a dtlic^icv, I fuppofe, of not cx- prefsly ftipularing, that the ftate of Neuchatel and Vallengin may oppofe their fovereign by arms, in cafe the Swifs iliould be engaged in any war againft him. It is evident, however, that they confivlcr their connection with the Helvetic body, as of fuperior obligation to that with their prince, as fovereign of Neuchatel and Vallengin. The remarkable claufe in qucftion is as follovi^s : Et qiCen outre et copform'^ment a ties articles expr s et formelt ties franchifes tant de la hour geol fie de Nevfchtel que de celle de ValUngiriy cet Etat ne puifje tre engage dans aucune guerre ^ m let fujets dUcelui obliges d*y marcher y que ce ne foil pour la propre guerre du Prince^ c ejl ; dire^ pour la defence de VEtat^ et pour les guerres que le Prince pourrott avoir en tant q-efouverainde Neufc hotel et non autretnent : en forte que s'il (moit guerre pour raijon de quelque autre Etat, terres et feigneuries^ tEtat de Neuf- chatel ne Joit point oblige d'y entrer ; mats en ce cas derura de" meurer dans la neutrality y a mo.ns que tout le corps Hilfetique en g nrul n'y prit part et inter, t. 472 LETTER 47- viour. Andy by the lalc pacification it was fur- ther agreed, that the prince is not himfelf the judge of their good behaviour j but that in order to be deprived of their places, they muft be fully convifted of malverfation in office, by certain judges at Neuchatcl appointed for that pur- pofe. 6. The foyereign (halt take the accuftomed oath upon his acccffion ; and promife to main- tain all the rights, liberties, franchifes, and cuf- toms, written or unwritten. ^ It is remarkable, that one of the mod effential rights of the fubjed, depends upon immemorial ufagc ; for, that " the lovereign ftall be con- " fidered as refident only at Neuchatel/' is in the number of their unurit:en immunities. Now^ this privilege, in conjundion with the third ar- ticle juR cited, forms the bafis of their civil liber- ty By the former, the prince, when abfent, can only addrcfs his rubjeds through his governor and the co'incil of ftate ; and no fubjed can be tried out of the country, or othcrwife than by judges appointed by the conititution : by the latttr, fhould the king of Pr^ffia be at war with all Germany ; the people of Ntuchatel and Val- Icngin are by no means obliged to arm in his defence; but individuals may e\en ferve againft him, fo long as the powers whom they ferve, arc not engaged in hottilities againft their coun- try*. Be fide ♦ WFien Henrv diilce of Longueville, and fovercign of Neuchatei, was, in 1650, fenr ro ihecaftle of Vincennes, Fciix deMareval, captain of rhcSwifs guard?, Ictpr guard in his turn^ though he was citiz.n of Neuchatei, at ihe door of the prifoD^ m vrhich his jiyvtreign was confined. Government of Neuchateh - 473 Befide thefe general articles, that comprehend the privileges of the people at large ; there are others which the fovereign is equally bound to maintain, relating to the town of Neuchatei and the diftrift of Vallengin, in particular. The prince confers nobility, nominates to the principal offices of ftate, both civil and military, and appoints the chatelains and mayors, who prefide in the courts of juftice. His revenues, which are very moderate, and fcarcely amount to £,*S^ooo a year, arife from certain demefnes ; from a fmall land tax ; from the tythes of wine and corn ; and from the tenth of the value on the fale of immoveables. With regard to commerce, no fubjeft pays any duties either of importation or exportation, except for foreign wines imported into the town of Neuchatei. During the abfence of the prince, he is re- prefented by a governor of his own appointing ; who enjoys confidcrable honours, but is extremely limited in his authority. He convokes the three cftates ; prefides in that affembly ; and has the cafting vote if the futf rages happen to be equal : he enjoys the power alfo, in criminal cafes, of pardoning, or of mitigating the fentence. In the governor's abfence his place is fupplicd by the fenior counfellor of ftate. The three eftates of Neuchatei form the fu- perior tribunal of this country ; and receive ap- peals from the inferior courts of jullice. They are compofed of twelve judges, divided into three cftates : the firft confifts of the four fenior counfellors of ftate, who are noble; the fecond, of the four chatelains of Landeron, Boudry, Val dc 474 LETTER 47- dc Travers, and Thielle* ; and in cafe of ab- fence, their place is fupplied by the refpeftive mayors in the principality of Neuchatel, ac- cording to a regulated order ; the third is com- pofed of four counfellors of the town of Neu- chatel. 1 he judges in the firfl and fecond divi- fion hold their places for life ; thofe in the third are appointed annually. This body ordinarily affembles every year in the month of May ; but is convoked extraordinarily upon particular oc- cafions : the town of Neuchatel is always the place of meeting. Thefe three eftates are not the reprefentatives of the people ; nor do they poflefs the Icgiflative authority. They are, properly fpeaking, the fu- preme court of judicature, which receives all ap- peals, and decides finally all caufes, even thofe re- lating to the fovereignty of the country : a power which they exercifed in the year 1707, upon the extinftion of the direft line in the perfon of the duchefs of Nemours. It may be here not unworthy of remark, that the three eftates decided the famous caufe of the fucceffion in 1707, as a procefs between the feve- ral claimants of the fovereignty. But if (in fai- lure of claimants) a new fovereign was to be chofen, or a new form of government to be efta- blifhed ; this would no longer be confidered as amenable to a court of judicature : the queftion would • The principality of Neuchatel is divided into a certain number of diftridts ; fome of which are denominated chatello.- njes, and others mnyoralttes. The chiefs of the former are called thatelmns, and of the latter mayors : in every other refpeft their office and their power is the fame. Government of Neuchatel. 475 would then come before the people affembled by means of their reprefentatives. The council of ftatc is inverted with the ordi- nary adminiftration of government ; fuperintends the general police ; and is entrufted with the ex- ecution of the laws. The members nominated by the fovereign are not limited to any parti- cular number. The prince exercifes his autho- rity by means of this council, in which he is al- ways confidered as perfonally prefiding : and the power of the prefident is only to convoke the af- fembly ; to propofe the fubjeft of their confidera- tion ; to colled the votes ; and to decide when the voices are equal. The ordinances of this council are previoufly communicated to the mi' nijiraux of Neuchatel, who arc to certify, that they contain nothing contrary to law. The town of Neuchatel enjoys very confider- able privileges : it has the care of the police within its own diftrift, and is governed by its own ma- giftracy, confifting of a Great and Little Coun- cil. I will not trouble you with a detail of the feveral departments ; but I cannot omit men- tioning the minijlraux ; becaufe the members of that body form the third eftate on every aft of legiflation. The mnijiraux are a kind of com- mittee from the council of the town, and are en- trufted with the adminiftration of the police. They confift of the two prefidents of that council, * four mafter-burghers drawn from the Little Council, and the banneret or guardian of the people's liberties. The fix former are changed every two years ; the banneret is chofen by the general afl'embly of the citizens, and continues m office during fix years. The 476 LETTER 47« Government of Neuchatel. ^11 1 The legillativc autho-^ity is divided in fo com- plicated a manner, tliat it would be no eafy talk to determine precifeiy uhere it abfolutely refides : perhaps the following account of the perfons con- cerned, and of the forms obferved, in enading and promulgating laws, may fomewhat aflift in clearing the difficuhy. As foon as the caufes arc decided by the three eftates affembled \u the month of May ; the four judges, who form the third eflate, retire ; and their place is fupplicd by the four minijlraux. The attorney-general then delires the members ©f the three eftates to take into confideration, whether it is neceflary to frame any new laws. If a new ordinance is propofed j a declaration is drawn up, and delivered to the council of ftate for their deliberation, whether it is contrary to the prerogatives of the prince, or to the rights of the fubjeft : from thence it is communicated to the council of the town, in order to be examined, whether it infringes the privileges of the citizens. If adopted by the council of ftate, and the coun- cil of the town, it is propofed to the prince for his approbation or rcjedlion : in the former cafe, it is again publickly read before the three eftates ; and the governor, or prefident, declares the ap- probation of the fovereign. It is then promul- gated, or, as the expreilion is, paflcd into a law by the three eftates. Since the acccffion of thehoufc of Branden- burgh, the people of Vallengin are always con- fulred upon the framing of a new law. For this pujpole the three mafter burghers of Vallengin examine, whether it contains any thing incon- iillent with t^he franchifes of that diftrict ; in which which cafe they have the power of remonftrating to the governor in council. From this detail it (hould fecm, that the legi- flative authority refides conjunftivcly inthe prince, the council of ftate, and the town ; that the peo- ple of Vallengin have a kind of negative voice ; and that the three eftates propofe and promulgate the laws. Every year, at the conclufion of the aflembly of the three eftates of Neuchatel ; thofe of Val- lengin, as conftituting the fupreme court of ju- dicature for that country, meet at Vallengin, and decide finally all appeals from the inferior courts of jufl ice. Hhc Jirji of thefe three eftates is formed by the fame four noble and fenior counfcllors of ftate, who fit in the firft of the three eftates of Neuchatel ; the fecond by four mayors of the county of Vallengin ; and the third by four members of the court of juftice of Val- lengin, nominated by the mayor of Vallengin, The governor, or, in his abfence, the fenior counfellor, prefides, as in thofe of Neuchatel. The three eftates of Vallengin have no interfe- rence in any aft of legiflation : the laws which have been framed or amended at Neuchatel, in the manner abovementioned, being fimply re- mitted to them by the folicitor-general, and pub- lickly read before them. The people of Vallengin aflemble every three years in an open plain, in order to eled their three majier 'burghers^ who are refpeftively chofen from the inhabitants of the burgh of V^alicngin, of the Val de Ruz, and of the mountains. I'he func-f tion of thefe malter-burghers is to watch over the general iiUerefts of the people : they are alio in fome 475 LETTER 47- m feme cafes deputed to Neuchatel by the people, whenever they are fummoned by the governor and council of ftate, in relation to any affair which particularly concerns their country. The principality of Neuchatel and Vallengin is divided into a certain number of diftridts, each of which has its criminal court of jufticc. The great circumfpcftion obferved in the judicial pro- ceedings, may fometimes favour the efcape of the criminal : but the few inftances of atrocious crimes, prove that this humane caution is no en- couragement to tranfgrcffors ; and is a ftrong prefumption of the general good morals which prevail among the people. In a word, perfonal liberty is almoft as tenderly and as fecurely pro- tected by the laws of this country, as by thofc of our own invaluable conftitution. When the criminal is arrefted, he is immedi- ately brought to trial : after which, the fentence is read to him in prifon. The next morning he again appears before the judges, aflcmbled in the cfen air ; the former proceedings on the trial are read, and the judges once more deliver their opi- nion. In capital fentences, the governor is in- llantly acquainted with the circumflances of the crime : and if he does not remit or foften the punifhment, the fentence is immediately executed. I am concerned to add, that torture (though fcl- dom ufed) is not abfolutely aboliflicd. Such are the general outlines of this remarka- ble conftitution, by which the liberties of the people arc as well, and perhaps better, fecured than even in the democratical cantons ; for, al- though the moft defpotic prince in Germany is fovcreign, his power is exceedingly limited. Among Government of NeuchateL 47 Among the flriking circumftancc$ which charac- terife this government, muft be mentioned the very liberal encouragement given to ftrangers, who fettle in the country. They enjoy every poffible privilege of trade and commerce ; and in no ftate are fewer eflential diftinftions made between ftrangers and natives. I have already obferved to you, the good effeds of this enlarged policy on the population of Neuchatel and Vallen- gin : whereas a narrower and more contrafted principle in fome of the neighbouring Swifs can- tons, has occafioned, and continues to occafion, ai very manifeft dccrcafe of inhabitants. LETTER er. greatly delighted with his fiLaon when an unexpeded event induced him to quira ot his days. This event has been varioufly re- ated Some authors affert, that the populace incited by the minlfter of the parifh, hi'^confe! tcrues de la Moniagne, affembled in crouds broke the windows of his houfe, forced open the door and entering his bed-chamber, treated him with fuch violence, that he efcaped v^ithS culty J 4^6 LETTER 48. i ty ; and, not to become a martyr to his opini- ons, quitted the country. Others on the con- trary maintain, that neither the minifter nor the* natives were exafperated againft him ; that his houfekeeper, the fame perfon whom he after- wards married, difgufted with the inhabitants, broke the windows, and perfuading her mafter^ that he was in danger of being, aflaflinatcd, fo forked upon his apprehenfions, tha^ he quitted Moitier the next morning ; and as a proof of this affertion, they affirm, that one of the flones found in the apartment was too large to havc^ paffed through the broken panes of glafs. The truth, however, feems to be, that his pride and fufpicious temper had rendered him obnoxious to many of the inhabitants ; that the fcepticifm and infidelity of his religious opinions, in his L^//r^/ Ecrites de la Montagne'^ had raifcd a party againft him; that fome of the people would occafionally infult him; that the miniKer of the parifli fummoned him before the confifto- ry ; that he declined appearing ; that the council of ftate at Neuchatel had propofed condemning the abovementioncd publication, and had even applied to the king of Pruflia for that purpofe. rrcderic, in an anfwer, which does honour to his head and his heart, while he permitted them to ufc any precautions which might, tend to prc- Tent the fpreading of fceptical opinions, yet wifely forbade all pcrfecution, and enfured to Rouffeau a fecurc retreat at Moitier under his immediate proteftion. Before this anfwer -was returned, fome of the populace, intoxicated with liquor, threw ftones againft Rouffeau*s windows with fuch violence as to penetrate into the kit- chen, Anecdotes of Rouffiau, 487 chen, and to tear off the plaifter from the walls ; but it is certain that none of thefe ftones did, or could, enter his bed-chamber, as that apartment was fituated on the other fide of the houfe. This violence, however, exaggerated by the real or pretended terrors of his houfekeeper, was fuffici. cnt to alarm Rouffeau : on the next morning he r^ired from Moitier, and took refufrc in the liland of St. Peter. ^ The ifland of St. Peter, fometimes called the ifland of La Motte, and fometimes Rouffeau^s liland, lies towards the fouthern extremity of the lake of Bienne, To this delightful fpot I made an agreeable excurfion on the fourth of Oaober 1786, in company with the Rev. M. de Meuron, of Neuchatel, and three Engliih gen- tlemen. We quitted Neuchatel in the morning • paffed through St. Blaife and the diftrid of Lanl deron, and embarked at Neuville, a fmall town, which, hke Bienne, acknowledges the biffiop of Bafle for its liege lord, but poffeffes fuch rights and immunities as render it an independent re- public. It contains about twelve hundred inha- bitants. The fine weather, and the clearnefs of the air, enabled us to enjoy the mild beauties of the view as we failed to the ifland. To the fouth- weft we difcerned Neuville and its antient caftle, and to the fouth-eaft we admired the Julimont' an infulated hill adorned with woods of oak, the fummit of which is frequently vifited by travel- lers for the beauty of the profpeft ; and its name has been derived by fanciful antiquaries from Julius Caefar. At the extremity of a rocky and woody promontory^ v^hich ftretches from the toot of the Julimont into the lake, ftands the caftle :■' t 4S8 LETTER 48. m ' caftle of Cerlier, and beyond, at fome diftancc, the fertile plains watered by the Thiele. We landed on the fouth fide of St. Peter's ifland, and walked through an agreeable meadow fkirted with vineyards to a large farni-houfe, which %as formerly a convent*, and is now in- habited by the fleward of the general hofpital at Berne, to which the ifland belongs. The ifland is about two miles in circumfer- ence, and richly wooded with various ftirubs and trees, particularly with large oaks, beech, and Spanifli chefnuts. Its furface is gently undulat- ing ; the fouthern fhore, covered with herbage, forms a gradual flope to the lake ; the remaining borders are fteep and rocky : in a few places their fummits are thinly fringed with flirubs ; in others their perpendicular fides are clothed to the water's edge with hanging woods. The views from the different parts of the ifland are beuutiful and di- verfified ; that to the north is the moft extenfive and pleafmg. It commands the lake of Bienne, which is ot an oval form ; its cultivated borders fpotted with villages and caAles, with the towns of Nidau and Bienne ftanding on the farther ex- tremity. Agreeable walks are carried through the woods, and terminate at a circular pavilion placed in the center of the ifland. During vin- tage particularly, and on Sunday, which is the ulual day of feftivity, the ifland is filled with parties who take rcfrefliments at the farm-houfe, (Iray about the woods, or dance in the circular buildings, and animate thefe romantic but foli- tary fccnes. Roufllrau • h was fecuIaTifcd at the reformation. *1 Hi J?i€cdotes of Roujfeau. 489 Roufleau occupied an apartment in the farm- houfe, the only dwelHng in the ifland. He lived with the fteward and his family, who are the pre- fent inhabitants. The woman informed me, that he paid for his board and lodging forty fliillings a month, that he ufually rofe at fix, dined wiiH the family at twelve, and after a flight fupper retired to reft at nine. She added, that he was extremely cheerful and agreeable; converfed with the family with the greateft eafe and com- placency, and conformed to their hours and manner of living ; that he amufed himfelf en- tirely in wandering about the woods, and fearch- ing tor plants, which he ufed to explain to them With fingular fatisfadlon. Roufliau mentions his refidence in this delightful ifland with the hicrheft terms of rapture, and his ufual pronenefs tS ex- aggeration. ^ " I was permitted to remain only two months 4n this delightful ifland ; but I could have paf- fed there two years, two centuries, all eternity without fufl'ering a moment's ennui, although my whole fociety confifted of the fteward and family, good but plain people. I efteem thefe two jnonths as the moft happy period of my life ; and fo happy that I could have paflbd my whole ex- iftence without even a momentary wifli for ano- ther fituation*." If we examine in what this extreme happinefs confifted ; he himfelf informs us, that his prin- cipal occupation was in doing nothing. He did not even unpack his books, and could fcarcely prevail on himfelf to read, much lefs to anfwer any letters. He aflifted the fteward and his fer- vants * See Promenade V. '^' m 490 LETTER 48. P0^ vants at work in the vineyards and fields ; faun- tered about the woods, and gave himfelf up en- tirely to botany. He propofed to write a F/ora Petrinfularis, or a defcription of the plants in the yiand ; adding on this head, that as a German had publifhed a book on the kernel of a lemon, in the fame manner he would compofe a treatife on each fpccies of grafs, mofs, and lichen; and that he would not leave the mod minute particle of vegetation undefcribed. He made occafional cxcurfiofts on the lake, fometimes coafting the ihady banks of the ifland ; at other times fuffer. ing the bark to float without direction into the middle of the lake : then, to ufe his own expref- fions, " he would lie down in the boat, look up to the heavens, and continue in that pofture for fevcral hours, enjoying a thoufand unconnefted and confufed, but delicious, reveries." He frc- quently rowed to a fmall fandy ifland, which he defcribes as a moft beautiful fpot. It was one of his great amufements to people this little ifland with rabbits ; and as he was conveying, with great pomp^ the fteward's family to be prefent at the foundation of this little colony, he defcribes himfelf as equally elated with the pilot of the Ar- ganaiiiic expedition* From thefe fimple avocations and every day occurrences, which Roufleau relates with that cmhufiafm and thofe fentiments peculiar to him- felf, he drans the following fublime morality. " I have remarked, during the viciflitudes of a long life, that the mod delightful enjoyments and mod rapturous plcafures, are not, upon recol- leftion, thofe with which 1 am moft afFeded. Such fleeting moments of paflTion and delirium, however •f Anetdotes of Rouffeatt. 4-91 hb'Oi^evef' raptdtcJVi^; art," ffftiii tbtrir'vctyrtHt^Yei- b^t thin!f fcattered' in thi p^t¥' of'lif^: They J are too' r^r6' aftd VapW to cbnftfCti'td' a^fix^d ^ii^Y affd'the h^^^irfefi'whicli'rty heart rtgtets,^ i^iiot-' cbtt'i'p^fe'd ctf fugitive i^ftants,% but coiififti irt^a^ fimple and permanent ftat^, withotrtrapttirt, ther* duration ' or v^hich increafes the charm, till it finds fupreme felicity.'' This ftate he defcribes himfelf as poflefling during his fliort continuance in the ifland of Bienne ; a longer refidence would probably have diflblved the charm, which was raifed by his own heated imagination. That reflleflhefs of temper, which is ufually the attendant of great genius, and which was his infeparable companion, would have probably returned, and embittered the de- lightful calm which he defcribes with fuch rapture and exilacy. But he had not time to become difgufted with his fituation : for the fame intole- rant fpirit which had hitherto purfued him, fol- lowed him even to this fequeftered ifland ; and he had fcarcely paflTed two months, before he re- ceived an order from the government of Berne to depart from their territories. Roufleau was fo fliocked at this unexpefted command, that he petitioned to be impriloned for life, only re- quefl:ing the ufe of a few books, and that he might be occafionally permitted to walk in the open air. Soon after this extraordinary requeft, which ftiews the extreme agitation of his mind, and which cannot but interefl: every feeling- mind, he reluftantly quitted the ifland. It does itbt fall within the compafs of a letter to dwell upon this fingular man through the fubfequent events of his life, or even accompany hini to England, [■if It 1 492 LETTER 48. England, where, notwithftanding the mod dif. tinguifhed reception, the fame perverfenefs of difpofition, and the fame exceflive delicacy, ren- dered him no lefs unhappy, than when he was under the prciTurc of real calamities, and expofed to reiterated perfecutions. I am, &c. MoraU 493 LETTER 49' Environs of Morat— Mount Vuilly. LETTER T IN our way to Morat and Avenches we crofled the river Thiele, which iffues from the lake of Neiichatel, difcharges itfelf into that of Bienne, and feparates the principality of Neuchatel from the canton of Berne. Morat is a bailliagc belonging to Berne and Friburgh: the reformation was introduced in 1530, by the majority of voices, in prefence of deputies from Berne and Friburgh. The free fpirit of the Swifs governments is in no inftance more remarkably apparent, than by the mode which they obferved in embracing, or rejefting, the ,494 L E T .T .E R 49, Moral. I I the reformation ; as, in many other towns befide Morat, the queftion was put to the vote ; and the minority generally fubmitted, with perfeft acquiefcence, to the decifion of the greater number. Morat ftands pleafantly upon the edge of a fmall lake, about fix miles long, and two broad, in the raidit of a well-cultivatcd country. The lakes of Morat and Neuchatel are parallel to each other, and feparatcd only bv a ridge of hills : the former is the mofl: elevated ; for, it dif. charges itfelf by means of the river Broye, into the latter, i^ccording to Mr. de Luc, the lake of Morat is fifteen French feet above the level of that of Neuchatel. Both thcfe lakes, as well as that of Bienne, formerly extended much far- ther than their prcfent limits: and, from the pofition pf th^ ;^^uatry, appear to have been once united. Mr. Pennant informs me, that « the vafl fifh called the//^rw slanis, or the /aluth, which fre. quents the lakes of Morat and Neuchatel, has not been caught here in the memory of man. |il|:is; well defcribed, and finely engraven, in Doc- f,tor aipch'i^ Hiftory of Fiflies, vol. i. 194. tab. 34. ^-JiVr^iic time of Gefner two were taken, one of rrV^bich wa;> eight feet long; but they are fome. times fo large as to weigh fix hundred pounds. f»Jt:is an eeUlhaped fiOi, very fmooth, round and ,ithi<:k, a^d has a great head. The mouth is fur- Uiiihed with four ihorr, and two very long, whif- ,tcrs. It is very inadive and flow in its motions, nWd loves the deep and muddy parts of the ,i*k«s. :They arc founcl in i:i?.ny of the great 49S 1 re 111 frefli waters of Europe, and abundantly in the Volga. On my fubfequent expeditions into thefe parts, I examined with greater attention the environs of Morat, during feveral days, which 1 paiTed mod agreeably at Coujouvaux, a feat belonging to the count of Diefbach, and at Grens with M. de Garville, a French gentleman, who is fo much attached to the beauties of this delightful country, that he has built a villa in a pleafing fituation near the banks of the lake of Morat, where he comes every year from Paris to pafs the fummer. By thefe famihes I was received without any other introduftion, than as being the author of the Letters on Switzerland, and with that franknefe and cordiality fo flattering to a ftranger. I found the environs of Morat, though not fo wild and romantic as many other parts of Switzerland, yet extremely defirable for a conftant refidencc. I made feveral excurfions acrofs the lake, to an infulated ridge between the lakes of Neucha- tel and Morat, and enjoyed many delightful points of view. Of thefe various profpefts, the mofl remarkable is from the fummit of Mount Vuilly, where 1 feated myfelf on the edge of an abrupt precipice. From thence I looked down upon the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Neuchatel; ob- fcrved the Broye entering the lake of Morat, ifluing from thence and winding through a mar- ftiy plain into the lake of Neuchatel ; the Thiele flowing from the latter, and haftening to fall into the lake of Bienne ; the fertile and varie- gated countries encircling thofe bodies of water ; and the grounds rifing in regular gradations from plains to alps. But what renders this charming fpot more particularly llriking rs, that it is per- iaps 49^ LETTER 49' haps the only central point from which the eye can at once comprehend the vaft amphitheatre formed, on ofie fide, by the Jura ftretching from the environs of Geneva as far as Bafle, and, on the other, by that ftupendous chain of fnowy alps, which extends from the frontiers of Italy to the confines of Germany, and is loft at each extre- mity in the boundlefs horizon. Impreflcd with this fublime view, I caft my eyes downwards over that dead and extenfive morafs through which the Broye terpentines ; and cried out in the language of poetry, which knows how to animate the dulleft objeds : 4Jm;7/o«j hs hois et les montagnei Je "^X ^^^^ of « ori him durin. ^r rr '^'"J ' ^^^^ ^°"^ lordf^ip attended •* Dain Thar " % ""^t '^""^^ °^^'^ '^^"^^^> and fpared no pains that might contribute to his recovery : and it^yas hv ** your perfuafion that the duke was x^reJulA ^ u Hk hpufA w L V^ prevailed upon to cut ^_ ^.fa fb fedate and compofed. after this fi^oftC, a! 'J'veJaU't Trar,/. rd. I. p. 423. t The death of aarles at the battle of Nancv ,™. ,„ a j wth fome vety extraordinary circumftanceV fl; Ik •''"* lars of which, fee the curious accountlx.raaH from P^-I-'T Coor,„e, and the Chronique Scandd ^fe of JoL"^^ T^'o.l' mWraxars infereftinirMemmr. of rk« ir- J?"" ^^ ^"^^y^ Houfe of Valois. ^ ^'"S' ^^ ^'^"'^^ «>^^c ^04 LETTER 5^' His death terminated this bloody war ; in which the Swifs gave the nioft diftinguifhing proofs of invincible valour, and fpread the fame of their military virtues throughout ail Europe, but from which they obtained no folid advan- tage*. In faa, the principal and almofl folc benefit accrued to Louis the Eleventh ; as by the death of Charles, he not only was releafed from a dangerous and enterprifmg' rival, but alfo an- nexed the rich provinces of Burgundy and Artois to the crown of France. But, although the immediate advantages which the Swifs derived from the death of Charles, were unimportant : yet the confequences operated very confiderably on their future politics. Mary of Burgundy, the only furviving child and heirefs of Charles, married the archduke Maximilian, eldeft fon of the emperor Frederic the Third, and afterwards emperor himfelf. By this mar- riage the Houfe of Auftria acquired poffeffion of • " And whar," fays Comines, " was the occafion of this " war ? It was begun on account of a wjggon of ftieep fl:ins " which the lord of Roniont took from a Swifs, who was pafllng «' through his territorries. If God had not abandoned the dulte, " it is nor probable, that he would have put himfelf into fo " much danger for fo trifling a circumftance j confidering the " offers that were made to him ; againft what fort of people " ^' ^^^s engaged ; and from whence neither profit nor glory I' C0!i!d accrue ro him. For, the Swifs were not in fiich re- *' pure, as they arc inatprefent, and noihing could be poorer: " infomuch thit one of their ambaffadors, as he was endea- " voii'-ing to prevent the duke from engaging in that war, re- " monftrated ; that he could gain noihing by attacking Shcm: fo', their ciuntry was fo barren, that the fpurs of histrof)ps " and the bits i,f their horfes were worth more, than could be ^' furniilicd by all the Swifs territories, in cafe they were con- '■ quered. ' Moral. S°5 of the Netherlands ; and having frequent difputes with France, the alliance of the Swifs was ftrenu- oufly ctjurted by both parties. Thus this coun- try, being fecured from all mvafions, acceded as occafion offered to the two rival powers ; and aflifted each party by turns, as the intrigues, or rather as the fubfidies, of the one or the other prevailed. Thcfe intrigues gave rife to different alliances, contraaed wuh the Houfe of Audria, the kings .n/M-?"^' '^^ J'^P^' ^"^ '^^ ''"kes of Savoy fntl!I •"•JT~^"'' "°' '° ^"f^"- "'°^e "Minutely nto their hiflory, I will only obferve in general, that hitherto the Swifs had aded with great dif! intereftednefs in all their treaties, and had never taken the field but either 'to fecure their liberties, or to drive their enemies from Switzerland. It tZ th r"lri' "^"'^^ ""^ '^' Burgundian war. that the fubfidies which they obtained from Louis the Eleventh, taught them the difgraceful arts of mercenary politics ; as the rich plunder which they took from the duke of Burgundy gave, in fome meafure, the firft taint to their original fim- plicity of manners ; till at length, Swifs venality fias become a proverbial expreffion. I am, &c. LETTER 560 LETTER 51. LETTER 51 Antiquities of Avencbes. F EW antient towns have occafioned more controverfy among antiquarians, or given rife to fuch a variety of conjeftures concerning its origin and importance, as Avenches, the prin- cipal burgh of a bailliage in the Pays de Vaud. Some contend that it was the capital of all Hel- vetia; becaufe Tacitus calls it Avenikum gentis caput : while others have endeavoured to prove, that by this exprcflion the hiftorian intended only to denote the capital town of its particular dif- tri£l. Agreeably to fome accounts, the city was built, and a Roman colony founded, by Vef- pafian : Avenches. 507 pafian : with more probability, according to others, it was only repaired and beautified by that emperor, after it had been laid wafte, and almoft ruined, by Vitellius. Without entering however into dry and unin- tcrefting difcuflions, it was formerly a very con- fiderable town, and under the dominion of the Romans ; as appears not only from feveral mile- ftones, found in many parts of the Pays de Vaud, mod of which are numbered from Aventicum^ as the principal place of reference ; but more par- ticularly from the prefent ruins. I Ihall flightly mention a few of thefe ruins, merely to (hew you, that the inhabitants do not boaft of their antiqui- ty without fufficient evidence. We traced the fite of the antient walls, which appear to have enclofed a fpace near five miles in circumference. The prefent town occupies but a very inconfiderable part of this ground ; the remainder is covered with corn-fields and mea- dows. One of the antient towers (till exifts : it is a femicircular building, with the convex fide turned towards the town. We next examined a coarfe mofaic pavement difcovered fome years ago in ploughing a field. Being now enclofed by a barn, which is let to fome pcafants, the ignorant occpiers are taking the mofl efFedual method to deftroy it, by em- ploying it as a clrying-houfe for tobacco, and by fuffering flrangers to take away fpecimens. Even the government of Berne was fo infenfible of its value, that they permitted the count of Caylus to remove a pannel, containing the figures of two Bacchanalians, ITiis 'ipii 5^^ LETTER 51. Avenches. 5^9 This mofaic was the floor of an antient bath, and is about fix,ty feet in length and forty in breadth : the general form is pel fed ; and, al- though feveral pans are broken and lofr, yet from the prefcnt remains the configuration of the whole may be cafily traced. The pavement confifts of three compartments : thofe at each extremity are regularly divided into fifteen otlagons, eight fmall fquares, and fixteen fmall triangles. Five of thefe odagons in each compartmentj reprefented human figures in various attitudes, but chiefly Bacchanalian men and women : the remaining odaiions were compofed of three different patterns. The vacant parts between the odagons are filled with the fmall fquares ; and towards the outward bor- der, with the fmall triangles. The middle com- partment is divided into oblong pannels ; in the largcil of which is an odagon bath of white mar- ble, about fix feet in diameter, and a foot and a half deep : the fides of the bath are orna- mented with dolphins. Of thefe three com- partments, one is almoft perfect ; the \pthers are very much defaced. Each of the pannels is en- circled with feveral borders prettily diverfified ; and a general border enclofes the whole. bch[iiiilt, in his Recueil d' Aniiquites de la Suip, ingeniou(ly conjedures, from a glory which iur- rounds a head of Bacchus in this mofaic, that it was wrought during fome part of the intervening age between Vefpafian and Marcus Aurelius ; becauie that mark of divinity is not ufual upon any monuments of Roman antiquity prior to that period. He adds, that the fame kind oi glory is obferved upon the head of Trajan in an antient painting painting at Rome ; upon that of Antoninus Pius on a medal ; and on the arch of Conflantine*. He ftrengthens this conjecture, by further re- marking, that the head-drefs of a Bacchanalian woman reprefented in this mofaic, refembles the hcad-drefs on the medals of the cmprefles Plotina and Sabina f . From thence we were conducted to the ruins of an antient amphitheatre, within the walls of the bailif's garden. The general form and fize of this building are tolerably perfedl, as alfo parts of the brick walls which enclofed it. The dia- meter of the arena was, as well as we could judge by pacing it, about eighty yards : which inufl: neceffarilv huve been an uncertain eftimate : as a former bailif brought in a confiderable quan- tity of earth, in order to plant fruit-trees ; con- ceiving, 1 fuppofe, that good fruit was of more value, than to be able to determine the precife extent of an antient amphitheatre. Under a tower, partly built of Roman materials, is a cell in which the animals were probably let loofe upon the arena. On the outfide are ftill to be feen the remains of hwc dens : and the walls are adorned with feveral pieces of rude fculpture confiderably defaced. Not far from thefe ruins (lands a large column of white marble, about fifty feet in height, com- pofed of large mafl'cs, nicely joined together without ♦ The arch of Conftantlne at Rome being partly formed from the Forum of Trajan, the architedl improperly tra^nsferred the figures. This circumftance accounts for the g/ory obferved round the head of Trajan, on the arch of Conltanrine, which has been fuppofed to have reprefented the head of Conflan- tine, f The curious reader will find in the Recueil^ cited in the text, a very^ accurate defcription and engraving of this mofaic. ■ I * ll 510 LETTER 5^ without cement ; and near it lies a confiderablc fragment of defaced fculpture, which feems to have once formed part of the portal belonging to a magnificent temple. At a fmall diftance from this column, in the high road, we obferved a cornice of white marble, fculptured with urns and griffins. As we walked through the town, we remarked feveral other maifes ot cornice, or- namented with fea horfes and urns ; and fome marble columns of beautiful proportions. About a mile from Avenches, near the village of Coppet, on the other fide of a little ftream, which feparates the canton of Friburgh from that of Berne, are the remains of a fmall aqueduct. They were difcovered about fifteen years ago, by the accidental falling of a fand-hill which co- vered the aqucdua. The outfide is formed of ftones and mortar, and the infide of red Roman cement ; the vault of the arch may be about two feet and a half high, and one and a half broad. This aquedua has been traced to the caft-fide of the town, and alfoto near the marble column be- fore mentioned. We were alfo informed that it extends to the tower of Gaufa, between Vevay and Laufanne ; and that, between Villarfel and Marnau, about four leagues from Cpppet, an arch of nearly the fame dimenfions is excavated in the folid rock. But whether thefe feveral parts adually communicated v/ith each other, or in- deed whether they really exift, are fafts which, (having only viewed thofe remains that are vifible near the town) I mufl: be contented to reft on the credit of my informers* POSTSCRIPT. Avenches. POSTSCRIPT. 5" When I vifited the ruins of Av^nchcs in Oc- tober 1786, I had much fatisfaSion in finding, that the baiiif, Mr, Tcharner, paid great att^n- tion to thefe remains, and particularly to the mofaic. I could not avoid remarking to the bai- iif, who politely favoured us with his company ; that every lover of antiquity muft regret, his prc- deceffors had not fliewn the fame tafte ; as the ruins of Avenches would have been a greater ob- jcft of curiofity. Several excavations had beca lately made, at firft by Lord Northampton, who has a houfc in the neighbourhood, and continued at the expence of Berne. A coarfe mofaic pave- ment, a few fragments of walls rudely painted, and fomc trifling remains of antient baths, are the only veftiges of antiquity hitherto difcovered. I am, &c* LETTER S»z LETTER S» LETTER 52. ,!?■ , 1 Town and Canton of Friburgh—Populaiion^Go^ vernmeni — Secret Chamber. II ii. FrIBURGH was built in 1179, by Berchtold the Fourth, duke of Zaeringen, who endowed it with confiderable privileges. Upon the extinc- tion of the male line of the houfe of Zasringen, in 1218 *, Ulric of Kyburgh obtained the fove- reignty, • The houfc of Zsringen was defcended from the aniient counts of Alf ce, bv Berchtold count of Brifgu. His grand- fon, Berchtold the Second, built the caftle of Zaeringen, firu- ated near a village ot the fame name, not fir from the prefent town of Fribury^h, capital of the Brifgau. Upon the demife of Berchtold the Fifth, the laft duke, wirhout male iiTue, his ter- ritories we-e divided between his collateral heirs the dukes of Teck, and hi^ tvo fifters Agnes and Anne. Agnes married E-^eno, count of Urach ; bv vhich marriage he obtained pof- feffionW Friburgh in the Brifgau his polteriry were called counts of Friburgh Anne nwrried Ulric, count of Kyburgh : their daughter Hcdwige, wa« wife of Albert count of Hab- iburgh, and mother of the emperor Rodolph the Flrft. I\ triburgh* r\^ reignty, in right of his wife Anne, fifter of the laft duke Berchtold the Fifth. It came by mar- riage into the pofleflion of Eberhard count of Habfturgh-LaufFenburgh ; who fold it to his coufin Rhodolph of Habfburgh, afterwards em- peror. During this period a continual rivalfhip fubfifting between Berne and Friburgh, they were frequently engaged in mutual hoftilities : at length all differences were compofed ; and the two cities, in 1403, entered into a perpetual alliance. Friburgh continued under the dominion of the houfe of Auftria, and was concerned in all the quarrels in which that family was engaged with the Swifs republics, until the middle of the fif. teenth century ; when, by a very fingular revo- lution, it renounced all allegiance to the arch- duke Albert, and put itfelf under the protedion of the duke of Savoy. From this sera it occafi- onally affifted the cantons agai^ft the houfe of Auftria ; and in the war between fhe Swifs and Charles the Bold, its troops had a (hare in the viftories of Granfon and Morat. Soon after the battle of Morat, the houfe of Savoy, at the in- terceffion of Berne, renouncing all right and title to the town of Friburgh, it became a free and independent republic; and, in 148 1, was ad- mitted, together with Soleure, a member of the Helvetic confederacy. The fituation of the town, though not one of the moft beautiful, is certainly one of the moft pifturefque and wild in 8witzj?rland. It ftands partly in a fmall plain, partly on bold acclivities, on a ridge of rugged rocks, half encircled by the river Sane \ and is io entirely concealed by the ^^^» !• L r ' circumjacent 11 SH LETTER 52- i: 1 circumjacent hills, that the traveller fcarcel? catches the ftnall.ft glimpfe, until he burjs upon a view of the whole town from the over-hanging '^''Thelortifications, which connft of high ftone avails and towers, enclofe a circumference or about four miles; within which Ipace the eye comprehends a fmgular mixture of houfes, rocks, thickets, and meadows, varymg inftantly from >.ild to agreeable, from the buftle of a town to the folitude of the deepeft retirement. The banq winds in fuch a ferpentine manner as to form in its courfe, within the fpace of two miles, five obtufe angles, between which the intervemng parts of the current are parallel to each other. On all fides the defcent to the town is extreme- ly ftcLp: in one place the ftreets even pafs over the roofs of the houfes. Many of the edifices areraifcdin regular gradation like the feats of an amphitheatre : many overhang the edge ot a precipice in fuch a manner, that on looking down, a weak head would be apt to turn giddy ; and an unfortunate lover, fepulfed in his fuit, might inilantly put an end to his P^^^s by tabng a leap from the parlour wmdow, without the trouble of a journey to Leucatc, or to the rocks of Mcillerie. . r • • But the moft extraordinary point ot view is from the Pont-netif. To the north-weft part the town ftands boldly on the fides and the piked back of an abrupt ridge ; and from eaft to weft a lemicircle of high perpendicular rocks is ieen, vhofe bafe is wafhed and undermined by the .vindinK Sane, and whofe tops and fides are thinly fcattered with fiirubs and underwood. On Friburgb. rjc the highefl: point of the rock, and on the very edge of the precipice, appears, half-hanging in the air, the gate of the town called Bourguillon : a ftranger (landing on the bridge would compare It to Laputa, or the Flying Ifland in Gulliver's Travels ; and would not conceive it to be ac ceffible hut by means of a cord and pulleys. In the midft of the river I obfcrved a large fragment of ftone, which a few years ago fell from the rocky heights, was carried under one of the arches, and in conjunclion with other fragments ftopped the current, raifed it more than ten feet above its ufual level, threatening the lower parts of the town with a fudden inundation. A traveller fond of wild and romantic fcenery will not fail to vifit the Moulin de la Motte, and the valley of Goteron. The Moulin de la Mottc is a miller's dwelling, hollowed in the midft of an impending rock ; near it iffues a fmall torrent, which turning the mill, falls within a few paces into the Sane. This fingular dwelling feems fo far removed from " the bufy hum of men;' as to be rather fituated in a remote folitude, th'an within the walls of a fortified town.' J^ear it there is an afcent of four hundred ft^ps^to the Place des Fontaines, in the upper part of the town. The valley of Goteron, which lies on the north-weft of the town near the bridge leadino- to Berne, takes its name from the Goteron, a fmall rivulet that runs through it^ and rums fevcral mills. This valley, extremely narrow and above two miles in length, is bounded oa each fide by high and overhanging rocks of fand- ftone. M. Vernet, the celebrated landfcapepaiii- I- I 2 ter. 516 LETTER 52* ter, is raid to have ftudied thcfe rocks with great attention ; and frequently to have declared, that, excepting thofe of Tivoli, he never faw any rocks .whofe varying tints had a more plcafing and har- monious efFca. The valley contains feveral mills ; an iron foundery, where the ore brought . from Franclie Comte is forged ; and a manufac- ture of printed linen and cotton, lately eltablilh- ed by fome merchants of Neuchatel, under the prott-aion and encouragement of governntent. The houfes of Friburgh, conltruacd with a ijrey fand-ttone drawn from a neighbouring quar- ■fy, are neat and well-built ; but the whole town has a dull and inanimate appearance. Among the few objeas worthy of particular notice in the town, are, the cathedral, an elegant Gothic edifice, ereded in the latter end of the 1 4th century, and remarkable for the height and folidity of the tower ; the town-houfe, an ancient buildin^r, which formerly compofed part ot the palace belonging to the dukes of Zaringen ;, and alfo a lime-tree, in the middle of the principal fquare. Tradition reports that this tree was m- ftantly planted by one of the foldiers, the iid of June 1477, ^^ ^^^ ^^^"^^ ^^^^ the battle ot Morat : ^an emblem of Swifs liberty, which took deep root on the memorable defeat of f^harles the Bold ; and thus remaining firm agamft the conflias of time, has continued to fpread and flourilh, to the admiration and example of future ^^ The focicty of Friburgh is extremely agree- able ; the gentry are frank and hofpitable, and blend French politenefs with great fimplicity ot manners. Dinner is ufually fervcd at twelve ; and Friburgh. • r i ^ and fuppcr feldom later than eight. I never exr perienced a more cordial reception i^ any towft of Switzerland. The bifliop of Laufanne, called here the bifliop of Friburgh, refides in this city. He is appoint,, cd by the pope, ufually at the recommendation of the French court ; and his revenues, includ- ing a fmall pcnfion from France, and from the abbey of Hauterive, of which he was abbot, amount to about 400I. per ann. His diocefe extends over the whole canton, and part of that of Soleure. In all his aas and deeds he figns himfelf Bifliop and Count of Laufanne, and Prince of the German empire. The prefent bifliop, Bernhard of Lcnzburgh, is a man of letters, and an honour to his profef- fion : he is employed in preparing for the public a biography of the illuflrious and learned men born in the canton of Friburgh, who have difl:in- guifted themfelves; cither in the civil, military, or literary line. This canton is entirely catholic. Its popur lation in 1785 may be cftin^ated from the follow^ ing table. The town contained The environs The remainder of the Canton Abfentees - ^ Number qf inhabitants 5,001 4,000 S7yS^9 The fovereign power refides in the Great Coi^ncil of I'wo Hundred ; comprizing the two Advoyers, the Chancellor, the Grand Sautier, the ^m 5i8 LETTER 52. the Senate, or Little Council of Twenty-four, the Sixty, from which boay arc chofen the ban- ncrcts and principal magiftrates, and the remain- ing hundred and twelve members, who are fimr ply denominated Burghers. The only perfons capable of being ektted members of this fovereicrn council, and of courfe enjoying any (hare in the government, are the fecrei burghers, or a certain number of families divided into ioyxxhanmeres, or tribes of the town : they are called fecret burghers, in order to dif- tinguiih them from the other citizens, partly in- habiting the town, and partly the twenty-four pa- rifhes in the environs. The latter enjoy the right of appointing the advoyers, from certain candi- dates propofed by the fixty, and of annually con- firming the faid magiftratcs. Hence many au- thors have called this government arifto-demo- cratical, but erroneoufly ; for, as the power ot the people is confined to the ad of choofing and confirming the two advoyers ; and as the fu- prtme authority ahfolutely refides in the coun- c:il of two hundred, neceffarily fupplicd by a limited number of patrician families, the govern- inent is, in the ftriadl fenfe, a mere arifto- cracy. . -. Inftead of troubling you with an umnterelting detail of thole points m which the government of Friburgh refembles that of the other ariftocra- tical cantons, 1 fliall confine myfelf to thofe pe- culiar circumftances by which it is difcriminated irom them. 1 his difl'erence may be principally laid to confift in th6 three following articles : I. The blind ballot, or mode by which feveral important otBccs are fupplicd, and particularly Friburgh. ^ 1 5 by which the members of the fenate and the fixty are chofen. This mode of election was inftitut- cd m order to prevent venality ; and is too fingu- lar not to be diftindly explained. The names of the candidates are placed privately in a box, con- taining as many partitions as there are perfons who folicit the charge. Into each of thefe parti- tions the eleftors throw in their fufFiages as chance direSs, without knowing to whom they may happeVi to give their votes ; and the candi- date who has the mod of thefe cafual ballots is cleded. 2. The claufc which difables certain noble fa- inilies from bearing the office of banneret, or from being chofen members of iht fecret chamber. Thefe families are fixteen in number : fome were acknowledged noble, even as early as the foun- dation of the republic ; others fucceOively obi tained titles of counts and barons from the fo- rcign princes to whom they were attached, and in whofc armies they had ferved. 3. But the moft remarkable circumftance which difcriminates the conftitution of Friburgh from that of the other ariftocratical cantons, is a coiiimittee diftinguiflied by the name of the Se- cret Chamber, which, though not any public or rcfponfible part of adminiftration, is yet the con- cealed fpring that puts the wheels of government m motion. As the prerogatives and operation of this fecret chamber are in general but little known, and ftiil lefs underftood ; I flatter myfelf that it will not be uninterefting to lay before yoii a concife account of its origin and confli- Huion. The ' -it 520 LETTER 52- The fscra chamber^ forming a part of the council of fixty, is compofed of the four ban- nerets, who are reciprocally chofen by the coun- cil of two hundred from the four tribes ; and of twenty. four members, who are appointed by a majority of their own body : the former remain in office four years ; the latter continue for life. The fecret chamber affemblcs ordinarily four times in the year, or oftner if occafion requires : and is convoked by a banneret. The two prin- cipal meetings of this body arc between the Sun- day before St. John's day and the twenty-fourth of June ; and ufually on the anniverfary of the battle of Morat, for the purpofe of appointing the vacant places in the council of two hundred ; and on Tuefday in Whitfun-week, when they fupply the vacancies in their own body. Its origin is thus traced in the records of the republic. From 1347 to 1387, the three ban- nerets nominated twenty perfons from each of the three tribes into which it was then divided ; and thefe fixty afTembled on the Sunday before St.' John's day, to eflablifli the Little Council and eledt the treafurer ; from hence is derived the origin of the fixty, and of tiic allembly which meets on the Sunday now called Secret Sunday. It confifts of the whole council of two hundred, excepting the advoycrs and fenatc, and is pre- fided by the chancellor, the four bannerets, and the members of \i\t fecret chamber^ who take the places of the fenators. This affembly review?, confirms, or cenfurcs, if ncceffary, the fenators, the bannerets, and the fixty ; the members of each ^* J % 'I • Friburgh. 521 each tribe retire, while their conducl is exa- mined and reviewed by the remainder. The fame aifembly fills up alio the vacant places in the fenate, and in the fixty, by blinds bal- lot. In 1387, the nomination of the fixty was transferred from the bannerets to the affembly which met on the Secret Sunday : and that af- fembly was alfo empowered to appoint the Lit- tle Council, the treafurer, the fixty, and the re- maining members of the two hundred. By a charter of the fame year, four coadjutors, drawn from the fixty, are given to each banneret : and it appears that thefe coadjutors were chofen, in the fame manner as the bannerets^ feparately by- each tribe ; and this may probably be confidered as the origin of the fecret chamber. A charter of the year 1392, confirms the Secret Sunday in the right of nominating the fixty, and confers on the bannerets that of choofing the prud-horiimesy, who accompanied them when they convoked the people on St. John's day, and it is probable that the bannerets alfo appointed their coadju- tors. This nomination took place, as at prefent, on the Tuefday in Whitfun-week. , The, town being at that period only divided into three tribes, the coadjutors were limited to twelve ; and when a fourth tribe was added, their number was augmented to fixteen. A charter dated 1404 confirms, in many inftances, the abovemcntioned arrangements ; but does not grant to the Secret Sunday the not mination of the two hundred : a right at that time enjoyed by the bannerets, who fhared it with their 5^* L E T T E R • 52" ^1 ■"licl their coadjutors^ or ihefecreis ; and thus is pro- bably derived the power of appointing:: the mem- bers of the two hundred, fince conllantly exer- cifed by the bannerets and fecrets. The fame charter orders the bannerets to af- fcmbie on Whit- Tuefday, in conjundion with the fixty of the preceding year, for the purpofc of choofing four members of the fixty from each tribe, who fhould accompany the bannerets when they convoked the affembly of burghers and in- habitants on St. John's day ; and two additional members for convening the affembly of Secret Sunday. Here then are fix perfons from each tribe employed in thefe convocations, or in all twenty-four perfons, the number of members who now form the fecret chamber. The fame charter alfo eajoins the bannerets and fecrets tq colle£t the votes in all elcftions and deliberations ; an office which they continue to exercife to this day. As early as the beginning of the 15th century, the bannerets and fecrets affembled at Chriftmas and Eafter, for the purpofe of preparing and di- getting fuch motions as were to be laid before the Council of two hundred, which adopted, modi- fied, or rejeftcd them. As the bannerets probably continued to emr ploy the fame coadjutors in convoking the af- fcmblies on St. John's day, and on Secret Sun* day^ t\it fecret chamber y compofed of thefe twen- ty-four coadjutors, at length became a perma- nent body ; and enjoys the follo\ying preroga- tivte. I. It convokes, in conjuftion with the bannerets, the people on St. John's day, and the affembly Frihurgh. 523 affembly which meets on Secret Sunday. 1. It prepares and draws up all the laws and ordin- ances ; enjoys the fole power of propofing in the Great Council ; and, by means of the bannei:ets, of putting a negative on any motion, by affirm- ing it to be contrary to the conftitution, without the neceflity of proving that it is fo. 3. It col- lects the votes in the eleftion or confirmation of the advoyer, at the meeting of the people on St. John's day, and in the deliberations of the Great Council. 4. It fills up all the vacancies in that Council ; 5. Sufpends, depofes, confirms, and cenfures its members ; 6. Confirms, or fufpends and depofes its own members ; makes regula- tions for the interior adminiftration of its own body ; appoints the manner of electing its 0wn inembers, and filling up the vacancies in the Great Council. 7. Fixes on the time for thofc elcftions, and the fum of money which each member is permitted to receive from thofe who are clefted. 8. It can exclude all candidates from being chofen members of the fenate, of the fixty, from the office of bailifs, and other im- portant charges ; either by refufal to prefent, or by rejecting them as incapable. ' All thefe prerogatives, founded on authentic documents, or immemorial ufage, were confirm- ed by the Council of two hundred, in 1606, 1623, and particularly in iji6^ All affairs of government, and all debates in the national affemblies, are carried on in the German language ; and as the French tongue is fpoken in the greateft part of the canton, and particularly by the gentry, there are many mem- bers of the Great Council, who do not under- fland the debates. Such SH LETTER 52< Such was the general form of government when I firft vifitcd Friburgh in 1776 ; fmcc that period it has undergone fome very important zU terations, the fubflance of which I (hall commu- nicate to you in the following letter. LETTER Tr'tpurgh. 525 LETTER 53' Origin and Supprejion of the late Troubles in the Canton of Friburgh — Changes in the Form of Government. T) HE exclufive right of fharing In the ad- miniftration of affairs, enjoyed by a certain number of families, in the ariftocratical cantons, hath, in conjunftion with other concurrent circumftanccs, occafioned revolts in thofc of Zuric, Berne, and Lucerne, which were quelled by the intervention of the other Helvetic powers, and prevented from again breaking out, by ju- dicious regulations. Friburgh having exhibited a recent example of the fame kind ; I have en- deavoured to trace the origin and progrcfs of thof« 'W 526 LETTER 5J. thofe intcftine commotions, which have been fol- lowed by a confiderable alteration in the form of government. Accordingly, I now lay before you the refult of my enquiries, impartially drawn from repeated converfations with perfons of both parties ; from an attentive perufal of feveral pub- lications written during the courfe of the troubles ; and from fome curious manufcripts, which it was my good fortune to obtain. In the latter end of April 1781, an infurrcc- tion fuddenly broke out in the bailliage of Gruycres, a diftrid in the fouthern part of the canton ; the inhabitants whereof are extremely jealous of their liberties, and zcalovifly attached to all the cuftoms tranfmitted from their ancef- ters. Irritated by a few impolitic afts of govern- ment, by the petty vexations of the bailifs ; by the fecularization of Val Saintc, a convent of Chartreux ; by the abolition of feveral fafts and fcftivals ; and excited by the artifices of Chenaux and Caftellaz, two dcfigning leaders j they rofe in open rebellion. Peter Nicholas Chenaux, the chief of the fe- dition, was a native of la Tour de Treme, in the bailliage of Gruycres. This man was greatly cmbarraffcd in his circumftances, and highly ex- afperated againft government, having been ar- rclled and imprifoned in 1771, for his difobedi- cnt and turbulent condud. He was in the thir- ty-eighth year of his age, of a good figure and exprelFivc countenance ; and, being a man of rude but popular eloquence, and of an overbear- ing fpirit, had obtained a confiderable influence over the artlefs inhabitants. His abettor, John J^icholas Andrew Caftellaz, was a burgher of Friburgh JFriburgh» 5^7 P*riburgh and advocate of Gruyeres : verfed in all the chicanery of the law, converfant in the hiftory and antient records of his country, and well acquainted with the privileges of the people, he was the firft to expofe the flighteft opprefTions of the bailif, and to remark wherever government feemed to infringe their immunities or iflucd cdids contrary to long eftabliftied ufages. Hav- ing a loud voice, and vehement elocution, he was formed for popular aflemblies. He was the perfon by whom Chenaux was principally direct- ed^ in all difficult emergencies ; he drew up the principal remonllrances which, exaggerating every defed in the conftitution, tended to render go- vernment odious, and to fpread difcontents among the people. Thefe two leaders having, in conjundion with other accomplices, availed themfelves of the public diifatisfaclion, and engaged a confider- able number of adherents ; held, in the month of April 1781, regular meetings at Bulle. On the 24th, in particular, they infinuated before a large affembly, that government had formed a defign of impofing additional taxes of a grievous nature, particularly on horned cattle and horfcs ; and even of with-h( Iding the annual prefent of fait, which they (hared with the burghers of Fri- burgh. They reprefented, that the feculariza- tion of Val Sainte, and the abolition of certain feftivals, implied a fettled determination to over- turn the religion of their anceftors : that the go- verning party had many enemies ; that the dt:{^ potifm of the fecret chamber was held in uni- verfal abhorrence ; that the nobles were difcon- tented, i 52S LETTER 5j. tented, on account of their exclufion from the principal charges of the commonwealth ; that the burghers and inhabitants of the twenty-four parifhes were jealous of the exorbitant rights pof- lefled by the fecret burgher§, to whom was cx- clufivcly confined the entrance into the great council, and of courfe into the adminiftration of affairs, and the lucrative offices of government. They added, that the time was now arrived when they might venture, with impunity, to petition for a redrefji of grievances ; a ftrong party in the capital was ready, on the firft moment of their appearance, to join them ; and multitudes would repair from all quarters to the ftandard of liberty. Having, by thefe and fimilar infinuations, in- creafed the number of their adherents, it was finally concluded, that, on the 3d of May, they fliould fecretly repair to the capital, and, affem- bling in the market-place, fhould force the ar- fenal ; that having provided themfclvcs with arms, they fliDuld fccure the garrifon, and conftrain the Great Council to redrefs their grievances, and make thofe changes m the conftitution, which could alone fecurc to the people a mild and jud adminiftration. It is fufficiently remarkable, that, notwith- ftanding the general ferment which prevailed among the people in the bailliage of Gruyeres, and number of perfons concerned in this con- fpiracy ; government received no notice of it, before the 29th or 3cth of April. On the firft certain news of the intended infurrection, the council of war, who immediately affembled on the Ffiburgh. ^2^ the occafion, difpatched fome troops to arreft Chenaux : but he, having received information trom one of his accomplices who happened to bt, at that time in the capital, efcaped to la Tour de 1 reme ; and, being joined by the moft defperatc ot his adherents, determined to take arms with- Zl.^\ r"^^^"?' "^y "^"'"^ ^f ^'' emiffaries, excited the fpirit of rebellion among the people! who were informed that Chenaux had narrowly efcaped an arreft for his patriotic attempts to lecurc their immunities ; he ventured to repair to Gruyeres, where Caftellaz had already collec- ted a confiderable party. This advocate, having affembled a large body during the night, expati- ated, with much force and eloquence, on the levcral grievances, ufing various arguments in tavour of an immediate revolt, fimilar to thole which were urged on the 24th of April. He accordingly inflamed the populace to fuch a degree, that they flew to arms at five in the morning, and imprifoning the bailif, creft- ed the ftandard of rebellion. The alarm be- ing now given, Chenaux advanced to Pofieux which was fixed upon for the place of general rendezvous ; from whence he addreffed a letter to the magiftrates of Friburgh, difclaiming all defign of having recourfe to violence, and re quiring only, that the petitions and remon. Itrances of the people fhould be taken into con- lideration. On the next morning he condufted about lixty of his partizans to a height overlook- ing l^riburgh, with an intention of furprifin^ the city ; but firrding the gates fbut, the for- ^^^' ^' M ni tifications 53° LETTER 33. tifications guarded, and not being joined, as he expeded, by the inhabitants of the twenty- four pariflies, he retired firft to Pofieux, and afterwards to Avry, where he expcfted a re- inforcement, which Caftellaz and his cmif- faries were coUeSing in various parts of the canton. During thefe feditious proceedings, the ma- giftrates of Friburgh were adive in making pre- parations for the fecurity of the town. The council of war fat during the whole night ; a night of extreme terror and anxiety to many of the inhabitants. The account of the bailiPs ar- reft, of Chcnaux's efcapc, and that he was fta- tioned at Pofieux, within two leagues of the ca- pital, with a corps of rebels whofe number ru- mour exaggerated, was no fooner divulged, than a general panic and confufion prevailed. The ^arrifon fcarcely confided of more than fifty foldicrs, and thofe chiefly invalids ; the fortifi- cations were weak and extenfive ; not more than two hundred burghers could be muftercd to de- fend the ramparts ; and the infurgents were fup- pofcd to ^oifefs a ftrong party even within the walls. If in this moment of difordcr, aggravated by the darknefs of the night, Chenaux could have attacked the town with a fufficient force, he might have carried it by aflault. But the firft emotions of furprife and terror bad no^ fooner fubfided, than the befieged affumed a fpirit and vigour adequate to the alarming fituation of af- fairs. They all ran to arms ; the nobles, burgh- crs, and even ftrangers crouded to the ramparts, -and prepared for a vigorous defence. Their ^ confidence Friburgh. rnj confidence was alfo raifed by the arrival of fome mihtia from Morat, who entered the gates at nine in the morning, and by the expedation of more effeaual fuccours from the canton of Berne. On the preceding evening a meffenger had been difpatched to Berne, rcquefting immediate alfiftance. He arrived in that city foon after midnight : the advoyer d'Erlach, in the 85th year of his age, inftantly fummoned the Sove- reign Council. "Gentlemen," exclaimed the venerable magiftrate, « on other occafions you have a year to deliberate ; you muft now inftant- ly aft : Friburgh is befieged by an army of rebels ; let thofe who approve fending troops to her relief, hold up their hands." The members unani- moufly affenting, the aifembly broke up ; and twelve hundred troops were commanded to march without a moment's delay. Before the clofe of the evening Major Rihimer entered iTiburgh at the head of two hundred foldiers who paffed unmolefted through flying parties of the infurgents ; at midnight a hundred and fifty dragoons arrived, and on the next mornini eight hundred infantry completed the reinforce"*- ment. The arrival of thefe troops infpired the ma^if- trates of Friburgh with perfed confidence and lecurity, and faved the town from the moft im- minent danger. Neverthelefs the emiffaries of Chenaux and Caftellaz, ranging about the coun- try, founded the church bells in the various towns and pariflies, exclaiming that their religion and liberties were threatened with immediate M m 2 annihilation. LETTER 53. annihilation. The rebel forces were continu- ally augmenting ; they began to be joined by many inhabitants in the environs of the town ; and the leaft fuccefs would have increafed their number. Chenaux had fcveral cmiffaries with- in the city, and before mid-day appeared be- fore Friburgh at the head of above two thou- fand men ; eight hundred of whom were pro- vided with mufkets, the remainder with only clubs, or the firft weapon which chance prcfentcd. Having occupied the heights, he found his fol- lowers wavering and irrefolutc, and ftruck with a general panic on receiving the news, that a large body of troops from Berne had reinforced the garrifon. He polled his followers however in an advantageous fituation, waiting with con- fiderable anxiety till his forces (hould be in- creafed, and an opportunity Ihould prefent it- felf of commencing hoftilities, or of obtain- ing a general amnefty for himfelf and his ad- herents. In this fituation of affairs. Major Rihimer led a detachment of a hundred and eighty dragoons from one of the gates ; while lieutenant Froide- viile, at the head of fevcnty foot and twenty dragoons, fallied from another. The Major, driving the befiegers from a height which com- manded the town, continued his march with an intent of attacking him in front ; and at the dif- tance of about a cannon-fliot, reconnoitred eight hundred of the enemy drawn up in order of bat- tle, but without artillery. The infurgents no fooner obfervtd the cannon planted againit them, and perceived that the commander was an officer Friburgh. 533 of Berne, than they difpatched repeated meffen- gers to affure him that they had no hoftile in- tentions ; that they were only collefted to pe- tition for a rcdrefs of grievances ; and entreated him to fpare the effufion of blood. Having re- ceived an anfwer, that he Vould undertake to in- tercede in their behalf, if they would inflantly lay down their arms, and deliver up Chenaux ; they agreed to the firft point, but refufed the fecond. The major continued to enforce his demand, and gained time, until lieutenant Froideville appear- ed uncxpededly in their rear. The two com- manders repeating their promifes, that their juft remonftrances fhould not be negleded, the whole troop furrendered themfelves prifoners. Four of the principal ringleaders being fecured, the re- mainder, having dehvered in their names and places of abode, were permitted to retire without moleftation. * ^ Chenaux, cither finding it impoffible to excite his followers to fuftain the attack, or being de, ficient in perfonal courage, was among the firft who betook himfelf to flight. Wandering from village to village, he was, about midnight, ob- ferved near Pofieux by Henry Roflier, one of his principal accomplices. Roflier, willing to fave his own life by betraying his leader, feiz- ed him by the collar, reproached him for hav- ing feduced the people into rebellion, and for his cowardice in forfaking them ; and then, with the afliftance of Chavaillat and Python, two other infurgents, took from him a 'double-bar- reled pillol, and was conduding him to Fri- turgh. Chenaux, however, fuddenly difen^ gaging t* I I / 534 LETTER 53' gaging himfcif, drew out a knife, and, wound- ing Roflier in feveral places, endeavoured to efcapc towards Pofieux. But Chavaillat purfuing him, and Roflier fnatching a muCket from one of his followers, foon overtook him, and fummon- ed him to furrender under pain of inftant death. Chenaux, finding no hopes of efcaping, and de- riving courage from defpair, attacked Roffier with fuch inconfiderate fury, that he received the affailant's bayonet in his breaft, and expired on the fpot. The death of the leader, the voluntary fur- tender of his principal aflbciates, and the flight of Caftellaz, put an end to this ill-concerted en- terprife. Six hundred infurgents, the only re- mains of the rebels, were on the next morning obfervcd hovering about the capital ; but learn- ing the fate of their leader, and the furrender of the other troops, and being attacked by a corps of grenadiers, they difperfcd without re- fiftance. But although the infurreftion was thus fup- preflcd, and all parties had concurred in chaftif- ing rebellion ; yet the fpirit of difcontent had fpread itfelf with too great violence and rapidity among all ranks of men, not to convince the rulers of the fl.ate, that the feeds of the revolt lay deeper than appearances feemed to fuggeft. For it was obvious, that the petty vexations of bailifs, the abolition of unneceflary falls and fef- tivals, and the feeming violation of a few trifling immunities, however exaggerated by the artifices of the mofl dcfigning leaders, could never have been fufficicntly powerful to excite the people of Gruyeres Friburgb. ' 535 Gruyeres to the defpcrate extremity of taking arms againft their lawful fovereigns ; if govern- ment had not been extremely unpopular; if feveral grievances of an oppreflive nature had not required to be redrefled ; feveral odious reftriftions to be removed ; and feveral defefts in the conftitution to be remedied. Influenced by thefe confidcrations, government, in a ma- nifcfto ilTued on the nth of May, after granting a general amnefly to all the infurgents, except- ing a few of the ringleaders, found it neceflary to invite the fubjefts of all ranks and denomi- nations to prefent remonftranccs, to make re- prefentations, and to petition againfl: grievances. About the fame time the three cantons of Berne, Lucerne, and Soleurc difpatched de- puties to Friburgh, offering their mediation to- wards compofing the diflentions of the re- public. In confequence of this manifefto, many peti- tions and remonflrances were prefentcd to the great council, cither claiming the renewal of ob- folete rights, the removal of certain reflriftions, or the abolition of various taxes ; demanding redrefs of grievances, and an amendment of the conftitution ; or complaining of an infringement of popular franchifes. As it would be needlefs to mention all the complaints and plans of amendment which were didated by the fpirit of party and frenzy of innovation, I (hall con*, fine myfelf to three principal points of dif- pute, which occafioned the moft violent alter- cations ; and which would never have been com- promifed, if the three mediating cantons had not powerfully 53^ LETTER 53^ powerfully and eficaually interfered: i. The difqualification of the nobility from the office of bannerets and fecrets ; 2. The exorbitant pre- rogativcs and influence of the fecret chamber ; and 3. The exclufive privileges of the fecret burghers. 1. With refpea to the firft point in agitation, it may be remarked, that the exclufion of the noble families from the charge of bannerets and oifecrels appeared fufficiently reafonable, as long as the government was democratical, and the bannerets were, according to the antient char- ters, chofen from the people ; and of courfc when neither they, nor their coadjutors, the ftcretsy could be taken from the nobility. But when the government was changed from a de- mocracy to an ariflocracy, and the municipal ad- miniftration no longer fubfifted ; and particular- ly when the troubles excited by the bannerets, "^ i553^obIiged the Council of two hundred to transfer from the people to themfelves the right of appointing thofe magillrates ; the difqualifi- cation of the nobility, which was founded in democratical jealoufy, ought to have no longer fubfifted. Their rcmonftranccs were therefore jiift, and would have been ftill more reafonable, if the troubles of the republic had not rendered them dangerous. 2. As to the ftcond point in queftion : the ex- tenfive power and extraordinary influence of the fecret chamber^ could not fail to create jealoufies and difcontents among all ranks of men. For, on confidering the detail of their prerogatives, as laid down in the preceding letter, it muft appear, that although the members of that com- mittee Friburgh^ ^^y mittee enjoyed no pofitive authority in enadin^ oraninuUinglaws; yet by being the depofitarics ot the conftitution, and the ultimate framerg of all decrees ; by having the fole right of pro- pofing, and a negative on all the refolutions ot the great council, no motion could pafs without their concurrence. It is alfo no lefs obvious, that the power of making regulations for the interior adminiftration of their own af- fairs, myfterioufly concealed from the knowledge of the Sovereign Council, might give rife to dangerous abufes ; that the members of the chamber eventually enjoyed, by the power of excluding from all charges, that of nomination ; that by appointing to the vacancies in their own body It was to be feared, what in effed happen, cd, that an admiffion into the fecret chamber would be chiefly confined to a few families ; that as they filled up all the eledions in the Council of two hundred, thefe eledions would depend entirely upon a few perfons who poflbflid the grcateft credit ; and that thus the government would gradually but neceffarily tend to a narrow. cr ohgarchy. 3. The third point in debate, namely, the ex- clufive privileges of the/^-rf/ burghers, opened a much larger and more dangerous field of con- tention. The demand of the other burghers that, according to the antient form of govern- nient, the right of being eleded into the Great Council, and confequently a fhare in the ad- miniftration of aff'airs, inftead of being exclu- fi vely confined to the fecret burghers, fhould be alfo extendedto them j feemcd to militate againft the fundamental laws of the republic, and to in- volve J 538 LETTER 53' volvc a total change in the very cflcnce of the conftitution. The remaining part of the year was employed in agitating thcfe points of difpute ; which gave rife to many political and hiftorical difcuffions, and occafioned feveral curious refearches into the origin of the fccret chamber^ and the rife of the diftindion between the fecret and other burghers. For the purpofe of afcertaining thefc quef- tions, the popular party demanded accefs to the archives ; but met with delays and refufals on the part of government ; which confidered fuch an inquiry as of dangerous tendency, and cal- culated to introduce factious innovations in the ftate. Exafpcrated by repeated refufals, the populace began to fliew figns of difcontent, and to affem- ble in great crouds at the place where Chenaux was put to death : they marched in folemn pro- ceffion, bearing croffes and colours, and chaunt- ing hymns and requiems in honour of this martyr (as they called him) to the religion and liberties of his country. Thefe tumultuous meetings would probably have ended in another infurrec* tion, if the bifbop of Laufanne had not forbidden them, under pain of excommunication. To- wards the conclufion of the year, the deputies from Berne, Lucerne, and Soleure, arrived at Friburgh, for the purpofe of compofmg the dif- ferences fubfifting in the capital. Thefe depu- ties, in order to conciliate the burghers, who were no lefs violent in favour of the nobles than in extending their own immunities, prevailed upon adminirtration to repeal the difabling claufe. With Friiur^. j^? With rcfpeft, however, to the other fubjeds of controvcrfy •, as they conceived it dangerous to entruft the leaders of a heated populace with the records of government, which might be attended with projedls of endlefe innovation ; they propofcd, that the Great Council ftiould order a committee to draw up a declaration fa- ting forth the privileges and franchifes of the burghers ; and that for the future this declara- tion fliould be confidered as a fundamenta! code. But although thefe eflential points were ob- taincd, yet fo many fubjefts of altercation ftilt remained, that for fomc time all further plans towards finally compofing the differences were fruitlefs. The deputies repaired to Morat, where they were employed, from the 25th of April 1782 to the 2 jth of July, in hearing appeals, revifmg and confidcring the arguments on both fides, and confulting on the beft methods to conciliate the two parties. So greatly however were the burghers diffatif- fied with the chiefs of the ariilocracy, that they formed a refolution to refufe taking the annual oath of allegiance to the Great Council ; nor were they wi:hout great difficulty prevailed up. on, by the three deputies in perfon (who repaired to Friburgh for that purpofe) to perform the ufual homage. Difpleafed, neverthelefs, with the deputies themfelves, and confidering them as too partial to adminirtration, they delivered a memorial ; in which, after reprelenting their grievances, they threatened to appeal to the general diet of the thirteen cantons aflcmbled at Frauenfield. A meafure r'ktl II 540 LETTER 53^ Frihurgb. 54r ^il A meafure of fo alarming a nature, tended to produce a very material change in the principles of the Helvetic Union ; and was accordingly re- probated in the flrongeft manner by the mem- bers of that confederacy. For it was urged (and with great reafon) that by introducing an innovation of fuch public notoriety, the difputes between the refpeftive governments and their fubjefts would be liable to become more nu- merous and dangerous ; and that in the end each canton would fall under the guardianfliip of the remainder. On the other hand, what rendered the prefent crifis of affairs ftill more alarming was, that the court of France, confulted by feveral leading members in adminiftration, had offered her good offices towards compofing the diffcntions. And although the three can- tons had, with confident dignity, declared againft the intervention of any foreign power, and that Friburgh, on accepting fuch a media- tion, {hould be excluded from the Helvetic Con- federacy ; yet it was to be apprehended, that on an increafe of the troubles, the French would find feme pretext to interfere in the affairs of Friburgh, as they were adually engaged in thofe of Geneva : and " woe upon that repub- lic," faid the affertors of Swifs independence, " in whofe internal politics foreign powers in- terpofe." Influenced by thefe confiderations, the three mediating cantons, anxious to bring matters to a fpcedy conclufion, prevailed upon the ruling party to confent to feveral alterations in the con- llitution. At length, after various delays, dif- putcs, and conferences, the deputies publiflied, on on the 19th of June, a manifefto, declaring, that on an impartial and diligent review of the va- rious memorials and manifeftos on both fides, the affertions of the burghers were groundlefs, and their demands unconftitutional ; that the prefent form of government had fubfifted above two hundred years ; and that the fupreme autho- rity refided in the members of the Great Coun- cil. To this declaration they added, that the three cantons would defend and proteft the ex- ifting form of government, and would never permit an appeal relating to the amendment or alteration of the conflitution, to any other power than the fupreme council of the republic, that tribunal being alone competent to fuch qucf- tions. At the fame time they recbmmended to the government a repeal of the difabling claufe, which excluded the nobility from the office of banneret oxfecret\ to admit fome new families into the fecret burgherffiip ; to hear and redrefs any re- maining grievances \ and to correct any defefts in the conflitution. This declaration, being accepted by govern- ment, was read, on the aSth of July, to the burghers affembled in their refpeftive tribes ; but feveral among them protefting formally againft it, the three principal ringleaders of this oppofition were baniflied, their protefts difre- garded, and tranquillity was reftored to the re- public. Soon after this final pacification, the Great Council paffed feveral acls for the redrefs of grievances, removed fome burdens and ufages which had been the objea of general complaint, and •J't** LETTER 53- and amended the conftitution in the following points. 1. A pcrfefl: equality is eftablilhed between the fecret burghers ; the anticnt nobles are no longer dlfqualiiied from holding the ofEce of ban- nerets oxfecrets^ but do not enjoy any precedence in confequence of their titles, which in all a6ts and deeds within the canton of Friburgh are oraitted. In return, all the y^rr^/ burghers are without diftinflion of perfons, efteemed equally aioble. 2. Sixteen new families have been admitted intothey^rr^/ burgherfhip, which addition nearly completes the number of a hundred families ; and it is further cnaSed, that on the extinftion of any three families, an equal number of fami- lies (hall be eleftcd without delay* 3. The vacancies in the fixty, inftead of being indifcriminately fupplied from the members of the two hundred at large, are now filled up accord- ing to feniority. ' 4. But the great and principal alteration in the form of government, refpeds the new conftitu- tion ct the fecret chamber j which is changed in the following important points, I. The members of that committee, inftead of being nominated by a majority of voices in their own body, arc now taken from the fixty, and chofcn by blind ballot. The candidates are no longer under the neceflity of being prefemed by a member of ihe fecret chamber ; but, on ad- drclhng themfelves to their banneret, the latter is obliged to deliver in their names to the fecret chamber. As each vacancy is fupplied from the particular tribe in which it happens, this altera- tion Friburgh. 543 tion muft neceflarily reduce the candidates to three or four : in order, alfo, to prevent cabal or corruption, if there fliall be only one candi- date, he is not neceifarily clefted ; but it muft be decided by lot, whether he {hall be chofen or re- jefted ; and in cafe there fhould be a majority of ballots for the negative, he muft wait till the fub- fequent year, before he can have another chance of being appointed. Each member, on his dec- tion, fhall pay no more than £. 1. los. to each banneret 2ind fecret ; and the money ihall be de- livered to the fecretary, and by him be equally diftributed. 2. Neither father and fon, nor two brothers, nor more than two perfons bearing the fame name, (hall be admitted at the fame time into^ iht fecret chamber. 3. The members ftill retain the right of filling up all the vacancies in the Council of two hundred, with the ufual pro- vifions, that the candidates fliall be twenty years of age ; and that the promotion fhall take place every two years. It is further decreed, that, pn oath, under pain of deprivation, no more than 1200 crowns * fhall be received for the nomina- tion ; and that the faid fum, inftead of being folely appropriated to the perfon who is to ap- point, fhall now be delivered to the fecretary, to be by him equally diftributed among the four bannerets, when either of them fhall eleft, or among the members of the fecret chamber be- longing to the tribe in which there is a vacancy, when the turn devolves upon either of them f. It * Of 25 bach each, the whole fum £. 171. 135. \od, f Each banneret to nominate the firft vacancy in his own tribe, and then each fecref by rataiion, according to feniority, in his particular (ribe. ^^r ^J^^^'*'^ %" would in vain hfvf at! tempted to imitate. I am, &c. • Vid. Plin. H. N. lib. 35. c. ,0. [ 553 ] EXTRACT from Saxo Grammaticus, referred to p. 240. NE C filentio impHcandum, quod fequitur. Toko quidam aliquamdiu regis (i. c. Haraldi Blaatand) ftipendia meritus officiis qui- bus commilitones fuperabat complures virtutum fuarum hoftes effecerat. Hie forte fermone in- ter convivas temulentius habito tam copiofo fe fagittandi ufu callere jaftitabat, ut pomum quan- tumcunque exiguum baculo e diftantia fuper- pofitum, prima fpiculi diredione feriret. quae vox primum obtreftantium auribus excepta re- gis etiam auditum attigit. Sed mox principis improbitas patris fiduciam ad ' filii periculum tranftulit, dulciflimum vitae ejus pignus baculi loco ftatui imperans. Cui nifi promiffionis auc- tor primo fagittas conatu pomum impofitum ex^ cuffiflet, proprio capite inanis jadantise poenas lueret. C 554 ] hieret. Urgcbat imperium regis militem ma- jora promiflis edcre, alienae obtreftationis in- fidiis parum fobriae vocis jadum carpcntibus, &c. Exhibitum Toko adolefcentem attentius mo- nuit, ut aequis auribus capiteque indcflexo quam patientiffimc ftrepitum jaculi venientis cxciperet, ne levi corporis motu efficaciflimae artis experien- tiam fruftraretur. Praeterea dcmendae formidinis confilium circumfpiciens, vultum ejus, nc vifo telo tcrretur, avertit. Tribus deinde fagittis pharetra expofitis prima quam ncrvo inferuit pro- pofito obftaculo incidit. Interrogatus autem a rege Toko cor plura pharetrse fpicula detraxiffct, cum fortunam arcus femel duntaxat experimento profequi debuiffet : '* Ut in te,*' inquit, " primi errorem reliquorum " acumine vindicarem, ne mea forte innocentia " pcaenam tui impunitatcm experiretur violen- *^ tia.*' Quo tam libero diSo et fibi fortitudinis titulum debcri decuit, ct regis imperium poena dignum oRendit. Lib. X. p. 286. edit. Leipfic. 1771. In my account of the learned men of Zuric, with whom I was perfonally acquainted, I omit- ted, by miftake. Dr. Hirtzel. This learned phy- fician [ 555 ] fician, who may be ftyled the Swifs Plutarch, was born in 1725, and has, among various publica- tions, more particularly diftinguifhed Jiimfelf by the Socrate Rujiique, and by the lives of Sultzer and Heydeggcr. EWD OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 'I ^ •C li ^ COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY UBRAm^^^^ 0021051950 V^ \ I r -ji!l—.i.iii..,*.'i Miii-ifcM I W h ■■pifimPT—nptiii III ni l I n ff » !< I mi l ! ■f^Mpini*^ ^iMm,^ T-^iiaOpM^^*^'^'^^-^'^'^ jsjk'm.. .^ U.. i«»T;>:nr» '^ .?: t ^iviks^3i?-iK;^ ;»< -5, ^&J» ^'^ ■■'. oAf^ H' ^k I >1>L f .,_„ ^ » % 9 4.9A-*?. "U3 in tttc Cittj of UcuT ^otii "^ihxKXV^ m f's »i Hi , St ned \ n f II I R i i I - J I T R A V II-.S OUL I N LlBRARTi S W I T Z E R N.xo: '^ N A SERIES OF LETTERS T O WILLIAM MELMOTH, Esq^ FROM WILLIAM COXE, M.A. F.R.S. F.A.S. Rector or bemerton; member of the imperial oeconomical SOCIETY at ST. PETERSBURGH, OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AT COPENHAGEN, AND CHAPLAIN TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE Of MARLBOROUGH.^ IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. 11. DUBLIN: Printed for Messrs. L. White, P. Byrne, Grueber & M*Allist£r, T. Heery, J. Jones, J. Moore, and W. Jones. M Dec LXXXIX. i •»■» I ^^^ Nature ! great parent ! whofe unceafing hand Rolls round the feafons of the changeful year, How mighty, how majeftic are thy 'works ! With what a pleafing dread they fwell the foul ! Thomson^s Seasons. Winter, Ver; 105. 18328 T O SAMUEL WHITBREAD, Esq. M. P. Si R, i\ S the opportunity of revifing and aug- menting this part of my Letters on Switzer- land, and of rendering them more worthy of public infpeaion, was entirely owing to the honour of accompanying your Son upon his Travels, to you I beg leave to infcribe this Second Volume, as a public mark of that efteem and regard, with which I am. Sir, Your mod obedient, and obliged humble fervant, « \Y ^^ c o X e;, INTRODUCTION. Each of the three Leagues, which form by their union the republic of the Grifons, is divided into a certain number of diftrids, called in Romanfh Dratturas Magnas, in German Hochgerichts ; which may be tranf- latcd High Jurifdidions. Thefe diftrids are compofed of one, two, or more fmall com- monwealths, or Communities. As this com- plicated intermixture of different Communi- ties frequently creates much confufion, in the geographical and political accounts of this country, I have prefixed a Table of the general divifion of each league into High Jurifdidions, with their fubdivifions into Communities. The VUl INTRODUCTION. The Grey League is divided into eight High Jurif- diclions, which are fubdivided in the following manner into tweftty-feven Communities : *!. Difentis a o • mm r3 tJO 2. Valley of Lug netz 3. Gnib 4. Waltenfburgh 5. Fliras 6. Rheinwald and Schanis V) f 1 f Difentis [ 2 I Tavetch 3&4 f Lugnetz 5 I WaJs 6& 7 riJantz &the neigh- ) bouring diflrids 8 I Schlowis 9 I Tenna 10 rWaltenfburg 1 1 < Lax 12 tOberfax = 1 e o 7. Heunzenberg and Tulis 8. Maibx 13 f Flims 14& 15 < Retzuns and Embs 16 i Trins and Tamins 1 7 Sc 1 8 r Valley of Rheinwald 19 &20 i Valley of Schams I I S 2 c I 2 1 ^ 2 •3 S o n B 2 I I I I 14 Thus the Diet, including the three chiefs, con- fifts of fixty-fix voices. CONTENTS OF T H X SECOND VOLUME- CONTENTS. Let. 55. I OWN and Canton of Berne. Page i 56. Government of Berne. 1 o 57. Biographical and Literary Anecdotes of HaU ler. 20 58. Mr. Sprungli*s ColleSlion of Swifs Birds — Of the Bearded Vulture, 57 59. Mr. Wytie7ibach* s Colleclion — Account of the Chain of Hills and Alps feen from the Environs of Berne. 66 60. EKCurfion to Thiin^ Worbe, and Hindelbank—-' Tomb of Madame Langhans. 79 61. Vijit to Michael Schuppaih^ the Phyfician of Langenau, 84 62. Pay erne — Moudon — Geneva — Calvin. 91 63. On the Literature of Geneva. 98 6^. Government of Geneva in 1776. 106 . 65. Account of the Revolution at Geneva in 1782 -^Origifi and Progrefs of the intejiine Troubles — Siege and Surrender of the Town — Changes in the Form of Government — Emigration — Projcd for a Genevan Settlement in Ireland — rclinquijhed, 118 66. General ReflcElioyis. ^ 152 6"]. Como Xll Let. CONTENTS. 67. Como —Mendrijto — Lake of Como — Piiniana^^ Fori of Fuentes — Lagbetto di Chiavenna — Entrance into the Country of the Gri- fonS' 16 1 68. Plurs — Its Dejinfdion in the lafi Century by a Fall of a Mountain — Valley of Pregalia^ 173 69. Defcription of the Marmot. 179 70. Faffage of the Malloggia^—Lake of Siglio—- Selva Piana and St. Morezzo — Expedition to the Julian Columns — Bevio. 184 7 1 . Upper En^adina — Bever — Zuiz — Scamp f 192 72. Lower Engadina — Ccrnetz — Huldric Campel — Trafp-- Remus — Entrance into the Tyrol — Santa Maria* 205 73. Pafage of Mount Br alio — County and Town of Bonnio* 221 74. Tirana — Sketch of the Hijlory of tlje Valte- line. 236 7 5 . Government of the Valteline. 257 76. Teglio^—Sondrio — Anecdotes of the Painter Ligario — Morbegno-^Delebio, 273 77. Commerce — Produdions — Population oftheVal- teline. 281 78. Chiavaina — Valley of St. Giacomo — Chapel of St, Gulielmo. 288 79. Sphigen — The Grey League — Rheinwald — Via Mala — Tufis — iSficholas Rufca. 297 80. Valley of Tomliafca — Retzuns — Reichenau. '^ 310 81. League of God* s Houfe — Town and Eijhopric of Coire — Convent of St, Lucius. 3 1 7 ^'2. Caflle of Haldenjiein — Seminary of Litera- ture. 328 83. League CONTENTS. xui Let. 83. League of Ten JurifdiSlions — Fatzerol — Baths of Alvenew — Davos — Valley of Pretigau Malantz — Mayenfeld — Baths of Pfeffers. ^ ^. Page 334 84. Union of the Tlnee Leagues — Diet — Congrefs. 349 85. Valley of Sopra Selva^-Ilanfs — Truns — Difen- tis — Tavetch. 357 86. General Idea of the Courts of Juftice — Religion ^-Revenues — Population. 365 87. Commerce of the Grifons — Canal of the Adda. 376 88. Alliances of the Grifons with the Swifs Cantons — France— Venice — and the Houfe of Auf- tria* . ' 384 89. Languages of the Grifons — Particularly the Romanfh — Its Antiquity — Origin — and two principal Dialers. ^g^ 90. From David Pennant^ Efq. to the Author — On the Italian Bailliages of Switzerland — Journey from the Top of the St. Gothard to Milan — The Levantine Valley — Belli??zone — Locarno — Town and Lake of Lugano— Lago Maggiore — Boromean I/lands. 41 8 Supplement. — Account of the late Tumults and Re- volution of Geneva in 1789. 435 Faunula Helvetica. 449 A P P E N. XIT CONTENT S. APPENDIX. N- ,. Table of the Thirteen Cantons, andtheJEra deraT ^"^*'''" '""' *^^ Helvetic Confe. N- i.. Lijl of the Authorities from nvhich theGenelal XT, f ^^ "J Switzerland is compiled c2 c N 3. Ittneraries of Four Tours through Switlr. land m ijjG, ,775, ,785, and 1786. Appendix.~Catalcgue cf 'the principal Books lot MAPS LETTERS, ^c. LETTER 55' Town and Canton of Berne. I Berne, Sept i6* WAS very much (truck, upon my entrance into Berne, with its Angular neatnefs and beauty: I fcarcely remember to have feen any town (Bath alone excepted) the firft appearance whereof had a more pleafing effect. The principal ftreets are broad and long, not ftrait, but gently curved: the houfes are moftly uniform, built of a greyifh ftone upon arcades. Through the middle of the ftreets runs a lively ftream of the cleareft water, in a ftone channel, while feveral fountains are not lefs ornamental to the place than beneficial Vol. II. B to 2 L E T T E R 55- to the inhabitants. The river Aar almoft fur- rounds the town, winding its courfe over a rocky bed much below the level of the ftreets ; and for a confiderable way forming by its fleep and craggy banks a kind of natural rampart- The cathedral, a noble piece of Gothic archi- teSure, ftands upon a platform raifed at a great expence from the bed of the river, and com- mands a moft extenfive view. The adjacent country is richly cultivated, and agreeably di- verfified with hills, lawns, wood, and water; the river flows rapidly below, and an abrupt chain of rugged and fnow-capt Alps bound the diftant horizon. Such an aflemblage of wild and beautiful objefts would in any place prefent a moft ftriking profpeft ; but its effed becomes greatly heightened when feen from the midft of a large town. According to the native hiftorians, Berne was built by Berchtold the Fifth, duke of Zasringen; and was, from its foundation, an imperial city. Upon the death of Berchtold in 121 8, the em- peror Frederic the Second conferred upon the inhabitants confiderable privileges, and compiled alfa a code of legiflation, which forms the bafis of their prefent civil laws. The liberty which this city enjoyed, attracted many inhabitants from tfie adjacent country, who found a fure afylum from the oppreffion of the nobles. Although Berne from its firft foundation was engaged in perpetual wars with its neighbours, and for fomc time with the Houfe of Auftria; yet it continued to aggrandife itfelf by degrees, and confiderably to enlarge its territory. In the year 1353, Berne acceded to the Helvetic confederacy; and pof- feffed fuch great power, even at that early period, as to obtain the fecond rank among the Swifs cantons* Berne* ^ cantons. Since the acquifition of the Pays de Vaud, the domains of this canton form nearly the third part of Switzerland, and about the fourth of the aftual population: it contains about 370,000 fouls, exclufive of 11, 000 in the capital. At the introduftion of the reformation in 1528, government acquired a large encreafe of revenue by fecularifinj5 ^^e ecclefiaftical poffeffions. At the fame period, the whole canton followed the example of the capital ; and the reformed reli^ gion was permanently eftabliihed. The canton is divided into two great divifions ; the Pays de Vaud and the German diftrid. The Pays de Vaud having been conquered from the houfe of Savoy, arid the German diftrift from the ftates of the empire ; juftice is adminiftered, and the taxei regulated in thofe two provinces by laws and cuftoms peculiar to each. Each of thefe divi- fions has its treafurer and chamber of appeal re* fident in the capital : the chamber of appeal be* longing to the Pays de Vaud, judges in the laft refort; but the inhabitants of the German dif* tricT: may again appeal from theirs to the Sove* reign Council. At Berne the fociety is extremely agreeable, and foreigners are received with great eafe and politenefs. The men do not meet in feparate focieties ; and the women are the life and orna- ment of their daily afTemblies. Thefe aifemblies begin about four or five in the afternoon, and continue till about eight, when the parties retire to their refpedive houfes. Dancing is a very frequent amufement at Berne. There is a public ball every fortnight ^ and in winter fcarcely an evening pafTes without one. Thefe diverfions commence at fo early an hour as five in the afternoon, on account of a B 2 ftanding :>-; . / LETTER 55^ ftanding order from government, which prohi- bits their continuance after eleven. Englifh country dances are commonly introduced, but the wal/e (which is a fpecies of allemande) the favourite dance of the natives, is moft common* The parties arrange themfelves in diftiitd cou- ples, and follow each other in a circular direc- tion, the gentleman turning his partner with great velocity. The life and fpirit of their dancer ftrike a foreigner with aftonifhmenty and can fcarcely be conceived by thofe who have never feen them. The gaiety of thefe parties is ftill more enlivened during the fummer months, when the natives refort to a garden near the town, and dance under an open pavilion amid fcenes of ru- ral feftivity. The foreigner who prefers the con- ftant intercourfe of company to a more tranquil fociety, will chufe the refid^nce of Berne rather than that of any other town in Switzerland. There is but little trade in the capital : fpme few manufactures indeed (chiefly of linen and (ilk) have been eftabliftied ; but are carried on by thofe only, who have no profpe^ of being admitted into the Sovereign Council. For, thofe fiamilies who enjoy any influence in public af- fairs, would hold themfelves degraded, by en- gaging in any branch of commerce ; and as of- fices of the flate, except bailliages, are in gene- ral not very profitable, nor indeed numerous, many of them enter, as their fole refource, into foreign armies. One general advantage, how- ever, is derived from this anti-commercial fpirit ^ the members of government not being interefted in laying, reftriftions on trade, do not, as at Zuric and Bafle, confine the exclufive right of eftabliftiing manufadures to the burghers of the capital i but wifely extend that permiflion to all their Berne. 5 their fubjefts, withotit diflinclion of rank or place. From this circumftance, in conjunftion with the mildnefs and wifdom of government, arifes that comfortable ftate, and even wealth, which fo peculiarly diftinguifties the peafantry in the whole canton of Berne ; and to the natural refult of thefe wife regulations may be rcafonably imputed the attachment to government particu« larly obfervable in the German diftrift. It is worthy of remark, that the peafants, who have acquired opulence either by manufadures or agriculture, feldom quit their fituation ; they continue in the fame habits which they contrafted in the earlier period of life, and, however weal- thy, never give their daughters in marriage but to perfons of their own defcription. The public buildings are confl:ruded in a noble fimplicity of ftyle, and announce the riches and grandeur of the republic. The arfe- nal contains arms for fixty thoufand men, and a confiderable quantity of cannen, which are call in the town. The granary, an excellent infl:itu- tion, fimilar to that of Zuric, always contains a large provifion of corn; which is fupplied in confequence of particular treaties by France and Holland. The charitable infl:itutions of Berne are nu- merous, liberal, and well direded. The hofpi. tals ate in general large, clean, and airy ; and, in the alms-houfe for the reception of fifty poor citizens, is a curious eftablifliment fimilar to one which I noticed at Bafle. Diftrelfed travellers are treated with a meal and a lodging, if at night, and receive fix-pence on their departure. If fick or wounded, they are i^intained till their recovery is eflabliflied. ' ' The LETTER 55' The houfe of correftion, which, when the bcr nevolent Mr. Howard vifited Berne, was in fp deplorable a flate, is now extremely well regu- lated, and reflcfts great honour on Mr. Manuel, member of the Great Council, to whofe care and attention this falutary change is chiefly ow- ing. Formerly all delinquents, without diftinc- tion of crime, were confined in the fame place ; but they are now feparated ; and two houfes are eltabliflied ; one called the Moufe of Correction for greater crimes, and the other the Houfe of Labour for fmaller mifderneanors. The prifo- ners are alfo difcriminated by the appearance of broivn and blue from the colour of their clothes, with which they are fupplied gratis during the term of their confinement. The brown colour is appropriated to the houfe of correction, the blue to the houfe of labour. The men and wo- men are lodged in feparate apartments. Both are conflantly employed, fometimes in cleaning the ftreets, and pther fervile occupations; at other times they are taught to read and write, and are inltrudled in various trades, which may aifift them in gaining a maintenance at the expi- ration of the time for which they were fentenced to hard labour. By thefe means the expence of th eftablifhment is nearly fupported ; and an honeft livelihood affured to thole who would otherwife prove ufelefs or pernicious members of focitty. There are four tables, at which the refpeftive feais are a mark of dillindion appropriated to good behaviour, and a larger or leffer (hare of provifion is diflributed to each in proportion to their induflry. After having earned their food, the prifoneis in the houfe of labour receive tea per Berne. y per cent, thofe in the houfe of correclion eight per cent, for their extra work. Public juflice is wifely and impartially admu- niftered ; and the torture, which had for fome time fallen into difufe, is now formally abolifhed by a public ad of government. This humane and jufl afl: forms a diflinguiihed^ra in the hif- pry of Swifs jurifprudence ; as the example of fo powerful and wife a government cannot fail producing a general influence ; and it is to be hoped, will be the prelude to its abolition throughout Switzerland. The folemnity ufed in pafling capital fentence pn a criminal, deferves to be mentioned and imi- tated. The trial being finifhed, the prifoner is informed of his condemnation by the Grand Sautter^ or lieutenant of the police, and attended by two clergymen, who prepare him for death. On the day appointed for execution, a large fcaf- folding, covered with a black canopy, is con- ftrufted in the middle of the principal fl:reet. The advoyer, with a fceptre in his hand, is feat- ed on an elevated kind of throne between two fenators, and attended by the chancellor and the lieutenant of the police, holding an iron flick, called the rod of bloody all habited in their official robes. The criminal being brought to the foot of the fcafFolding without chains, the chancellor reads aloud the fentence of condemnation, at the conclufion of which the advoyer bids the execu- tioner approach. The latter infl:antly binds the arms of the culprit, and leads him to the place of execution. The public library is a fmall but well-chofen collection, and contains 20,000 volumes, a ca- binet of Swifs coins and medals, and many cu- rious manufcripts : of thefe, Mr. Sinner, a man of 8 L E T T E R 55- of great erudition, has publiflied a judicious ca* talogue. He has not only fet forth their titles, and afcertained their age, but has alfo given a general and fuccinft account of their refpeftive fubjedls ; and from many has publiftied extrafts equally carious and interefting. Among thefe MSS. are fome of the thirteenth century, con- fiding of fevcral fongs and romances of the Troubadours, written in that and the preceding ages, which merit the attention of thofe who are converfant in that fpecies of antient poetry. Learning is neither fo univerfally encouraged, nor fo fuccefsfully cultivated here as at Zuric ; ' the academical fludies are almoft folely direfted to thofe branches of knowledge more effentially neceiTary for entering into the church. The fo- ciety for the promotion of agriculture, is almoft the only eftablifliment that direftly tends to the progrefs of the arts and fciences ; and meets with |io great countenance from governijient. POSTSCRIPT. Odobcr 1786, I FEEL a very fenfible fatisfaftion on adding, that this enlightened government no longer me- rits the reproach of not fufficiently encouraging the arts and fciences. It is now awakened from its former lethargy, and begins to perceive that it is the intereft of every wife government to efteem and proteft the fciences. The magif- trates have lately purchafed and appropriated a large manfion for the public library ; increafed the coUedion of books; and procured from tnglan^ England an extenfive apparatus of experimental philofophy. Among other undertakings which meet with their encouragement, a new map of the canton is now preparing under their, aufpices, by the profefTor of experimental philofophy, a great de- Jideratum in the geography of Switzerland, as the alps of the canton are unfaithfully delineated in all the maps which have fallen under my ob- fervation. I am alfo happy to add, that the Re- verend Mr. Wyttenbach has lately inftituted a literary fociety for the promotion of phyfics and natural hiftory in general, and that of Switzer- land m particular. In January 1788, this foci- ety confifted of ten members refident at Berne, of whom feveral polTefs, and others are forming^ colleaions agreeable to the plan of the inftitu! tion. The members have eftablifhed regular correfpondence in various parts of Europe, and are ready to anfwer the inquiries of foreign na- turalifts, who wifti to be informed concerning any points which relate to the natural hiftory of this country. An inflitution founded on fuch liberal and extenfive principles, and having one objea principally in view, cannot fail to render ;he moft eifcndal fervice to fcience. I am, &c. LETTER lO LETTER 56, LETTER 56. Government of Berne, \N E R E I to attempt entering into an exaft difquifition concerning the government of Berne; my letter would not only exceed its proper li- mits, but would hardly be contained within the extent of an ordinary pamphlet. I am perfuad- ed, therefore, you will readily excufe me from putting your patience to fq tedious a trial : but you would probably think me very inconfiftent indeed, if, after having already defcended into lefs interefting details, I fhould pafs over in fi- Jence a government, the wifdom of whofe admi- Hiftration is fo juftly admired. Let me endea- vour then to fketch the general outlines of this conftitution. The fovereign power refides in the Great Council of two hundred ; which when complete confifts of two hundred and ninety-nine mem- bers, chofen from the citizens ; from whom they are confidered as deriving their power, and as aaing by deputation. The authority with which they are invelted, is in fome refpefts the moft abfolute and uncontrouled of any among the ariftocratical ftates of Switzerland. The govern- ment of Lucerne is called, indeed, the moft ari- , , ftocratical ftocratical of all the cantons ; and it may be fo perhaps, with refpefl: to the fmall number of fa- milies, to which the adminiftration of affairs is cntrufted : but no war can be declared, no peace concluded, no alliance made, no taxes impofed, without the confent of the burghers in a general aflembly.^ At Friburgh and Soleure t}ie burgh- jcrs are like wife convened upon particular occa- fions. Whereas the Great Council of Berne, fince 1682, when it was declared the fovereign, is reftrained by no conftitutional check of this kind ; as a general affembly of the citizens is never convened on any occafion. The executive powers of government are de- legated by this Sovereign Council to the fenate, chofen by themfelves from their own body : the former affemblies ordinarily three times a week, and extraordinarily upon particular occafions^ the fenate every day, Sundays excepted. The fenate, comprizing the two advoyers, or phiefs of the republic, is compofed of twenty, feven members : and from this feleft body are drawn the principal magiftrates of the common, wealth. ^ On a vacancy in the fenate, the mode of eledion is as follows: — Twenty-fix balls, three of which are golden, are put into a box, and drawn by the feveral members : thofe who draw the three golden balls, nominate three eledors out of their body. In the fame manner of balloting, feven members are chofen from the Great Council, who alfo nominate feven eleftors out of their own body. Thefe ten eleftors fix upon a certain number of candidates, not ex- ceeding ten, nor lefs than fix; and thofe among thefe candidates, who have the feweft votes in the Sovereign Council, retire, till their number IS reduced to four : then four balls, two golden and /•/ II LETTER 56. W* . and two filver, are drawn by the four remaining candidates ; the two who draw the former are put in nomination, and he who has the g?eateft» number of fuffrages in the Sovereign Council, is chofen. But in order to be eligible, the candidate mufl have been a member of the Great Council ten years, and muft be married, or a widower. The Great Council is generally filled up every ten years ; as within that period there is ufually a deficiency of eighty members to complete the whole number of two hundred and ninety-nine : a new eleftion can only be propofed on a vacancy of eighty ; and cannot be deferred when there is a deficiency of a hundred. The time of eledion bemg determined by vote, each advoyer nomi- nates two of the new members ; each feizenier, and each member of the fenate, one each : two or^ three other officers of ftate enjoy the fame privilege. A few perfons alfo claim, by virtue of their offices, a right of being eleded: and their claim is generally admitted. Thefe feveral .nominations and pretenfions, commonly amount, in the whole, to about fifty of the new members; the remaining vacancies are fupplied by the fuf^ frages of the fenate, and the feizeniers. 'ihe Seizeniers are fixteen members of the Great Council, drawn yearly from the abbayes or tribes; two from each of the four great tribes, and one from each of the remaining eight. The candidates are generally * taken from thofe who have * I fay ^eneral/y, becaufe it U not abfolutcly fixed, that all the feizfiniers muil have been bailifs : for if it happens, tiiat in one tribe there are two petfons, one of whom has been a iMili/, and the other is a member of the Great Council ; they cjuw Joii for the chajjgc. And ihould a member of the Great CouBciJ Berne, j^ have exercifed the office of bailifs; and are eleded by lot- Every year during three days at Eafter, all other employments in the ftate are fufpended, except thofe of the bannerets and the feizeniers, who, during this fufpenfion, are in- verted with a power fimilar to that of the Roman cenfors. In cafe of mal-adminiftration, they may remove any member from the Great Coun- cil, or from the Senate : but it is a power which they never exercife ; and fhould they think prow per to exert it, the fentence muft be confirmed by that council. The principal magiftrates are, two advoyers, the two treafurers, and the four bannerets : they are each of them chofen by a majority of voices in the Sovereign Council, and are yearly con- firmed in their refpedive offices. The advoyers hold their poft for life ; the treafurers, fix years; and the bannerets, four. At Eafter the advoyer in office delivers up his authority, in full coun- cil, to his colleague. The reigning advoyer fits on an elevated feat, under a canopy, and the feal of the republic lies upon the table before him. He never delivers his opinion except it is demanded ; he enjoys no vote unlefs the num. bers are equal; and in that cafe, he has the cafting voice. The advoyer out of office, is the firft fenator in rank, and prefident of the fecret council. j-J.^cf ^^^ treafurers, one for the German diltna, and the other for the Pays de Vaud, lorm, in conjunftion with the four bannerets, Coundl be the only one of his tribe, he becomes feizenier of courfe, provided he is ehgible. In order to be feizenier, the his Sr ""f ^ "!''T^'r °' " ^^^^^^^' ^°^ ^^^' «e"h^^ nis lather or brother m the fenate. an »4 LETTER S6. Berne. an (Economical chamber, or council of finances : this council examines and palTes the accounts of the bailifs, and receives the revenues of all thofe who are accountable to government. The four bannerets, together with the advoyer out of of- fice, the fenior treafurer, and two members of the fenate, compofe a committee or fecret coun^ cil ; in which all ftate affairs, that require fe- crefy, are difcuffed. I have only defcribed thefe eight magiftracies, as being the chief offices of the ftate, and exer- cifed by members of the Senate. But although the general form of this conftitution is entirely ariftocratical ; and the Senate poffefles a very confiderable influence; yet it does not enjoy that almoft exclufive authority, which is obferv- able in many ariftocratical governments. For, by feveral wife and well-obferved regulations, the Sovereign Council, although it delegates the moft important concerns of government to the Senate ; yet affembles, at ftated times, and fu- perintends the adminiftration of public affairs. It may alfo be remarked, that although the anfient houfes retain very confiderable influence, and are more readily entrufted with the admi- niftration of affairs; yet that the principal charges of government are not exclufively confined to them; many new families being alw^ays admitted into the Sovereign Council on every eleftion. It muft neverthelefs be acknowledged, that, as the^ citizens^ are continually diminifhing, and their vacancies are never fupplied ; it would well become fo wife a government to receive occa- fionally new families into the burgherftiip, in order to prevei^t the ill effeds arifing from the partial and narrow fpirit of too confined an oli- garchy. 15 garchy. Government is adminiftered through- out its feveial departments with great precifion ; and every ordinance is executed with as much difpatch as in a monarchical ftate. The admi- niftration of affairs is carried on with great wif- dom and moderation ; and the rulers are parti- cularly cautious not to encroach upon the privi- leges of the fubjeft- The canton of Berne is divided into a certain number of ^ diftricls, called bailliages ; over which, bailifs are chofen from the Sovereign Council: and, thefe pofts being the moft pro- ' fitable in the difpofal of government, are the great objefts of general purfuit. Formerly the bailifs, taken "indifferently from the Senate or Great Council, were nominated by the banne- rets ; but as this method rendered the members entirely dependent upon thofe who had the chief credit and influence in the commonwealth ; the mode of eleftion was altered in 171 2, and they are now chofen by lot. No competitor, how- ever, can be received as a candidate, in oppofi- tion to a more antient member of the Great Council : for inftance, he who was admitted in 1766, cannot ftand againft one who was chofen m 1756. None but married men or widowers ' are capable of being eleded into this ofiice ; nor can any perfon occupy more than once the prin- cipal bailliages : thofe of a lefs valuable kind may be poffeffed three times. The feveral bailifs are reprefentatives of the fovereign power in their refpec^ive diftrids. 1 hey enforce the edids of government ; collea the public revenues ; aft as juftices of the peace- and are judges in civil and criminal caufes, ex' cept ^ tP* i6 LETTER 56. cept where there is any local * jurifdiaion. In civil caufes, beyond a certain value, an appeal lies to the courts of Berne : in criminal affairs, the procefs is made out in the bailiPs court, un- dergoes a revifion in the fenate, and is referred to the criminal chamber, which inflifts punifh- ment for fmall mifdemeanors. In capital cafes, the fentence muft be confirmed by the Senate^ and by the Sovereign Council, if the delinquent is a citizen of Berne. The bailif delivers his accounts to the ceconomical chamber, to which court an appeal lies, in cafe of exaftion, either on the part of the bailif, or of his officers : and with refpeft to thofe mifdemeanors that are pu- nifliable by fine, and of which the bailif is en- titled to a fhare; the proportion of the refpeftive penalties is fettled by the legiflature with the moft fcrupulous exadnefs, and not left to the arbitrary decifion of an interefted judge. Although from all thefe confiderations it (hould feem, that every poffible precaution has been taken by government to prevent the extortions of the bailifs, yet inftances have not been want- ing to prove, that thefe wife and ftrift regula- tions may be eluded : but it is no lefs certain, that where bailifs have been guilty of oppref- fions, frequent examples occur of their being impartially and feverely punifhed. The profits of this office arife from the pro- duce of the demefnes, of the tithes, and certain duties paid to government in the refpedive bailliages. In fome parts of the German divi- * The lord of the eflate of Diefbach enjoys, within his own lands, the f.ime powcis, in criminal affairs, as arc pof- fefTcd by the bailifs in their re^edlive difttifls. fion. Berne, i I 17 ■i •A fion, the bailif is entitled, upon the death of every peafant, to a determinate part of the in- heritance : although his fhare is very inconfider- able, yet in fome fituations it may prove an op- preffive tax upon the family. This tax is the only inftance that has fallen under my know- ledge, where the peafants of this canton are li- able to any impofition, which can juftly be deemed grievous. Although there are no (landing armies in S witz- crland ; yet in many of the cantons, and parti- cularly in Berne, the militia is fo well regulated, that government could affemble a very confider- able body of men at a moment's warning. To this end, every male at the age of fixteen is en- rolled in the militia ; and about a third of the whole number are formed into particular regi- ments, compofed of fufileers and eledtionaries ; the former confiding of batchelors, and the lat- ter of married men. Every perfon thus enrolled, is obliged to provide himfelf, at his own expence, with an uniform, a mufket, and a certain quan- tity of powder and ball : and no peafant is al- lowed to marry, unlefs he produces his uniform and arms. Every year a certain number of offi- cers, who are called Land Majors, are deputed by the council of war, throughout the canton, to infpeft the arms of the foldiers ; to complete the regiments ; to exercife the militia : and upoa their return they make their report to that coun- cil. Befide this annual review, the re^uments are occafionally exercifed by veteran foldiers, ap- pointed for that purpofe. Befide the arms in the arfenaJ of Berne, a cer- tain quantity is alfo provided, in the arienal of each bailliage, fufficient for the milida of that Vol. IL c diftriaj* i8 LETTER 56. di/lria ; and likewlfe a fum of money amounting to three months pay, which is appropriated to the eledionaries in cafe of aftual fervice. The dragoons are chofen from the fubftantial farmers ; as each perfon is obliged to provide his horfe and accoutrements. In time of peace, the advoyer out of office, is prefident of the council of war, and a member of that council is commander of the militia in the Pays de Vaud; but during war a general in chief is nominated, who commands •the forces of the republic. A certain number of regiments being thus al- ways in readinefs, fignals are fixed on the higheft part of each bailliage, for aifembling the militia at a particular place in each diflrid ; where they receive orders for marching. Before I clofe this letter, I fhall jufl mention an inftitution called the Exterior State, as remark- able for its fmgularity as its utility. It is a mo- del of the Sovereign Council, and is compofed of thofe burghers, who have not attained the age requifite for entering into that Council. It has a Great Council, a Senate, two advoyers, trea- furers, bannerets, and feizeniers ; ail of whom are chofen in the ufual manner, and with the accuflomed ceremonies. The port of advover in this mimic community is folicited with great a!"- fuiuity, and fometimes obtained at a conrulcrahle expence; as the fuccefsful candidate is alwavs admitted into the Great Council, without anv farther recommendation. This body pofleffes a certain number of bailliages, which confift of feveral ruined caftles difperfed over the canton : it has alfo its common treafure, and its debts! In this latter article, however, it by no means refembles the adual government of Bern^ which is Berne, j is not only free from debts, but poffeiTed of a very confiderable fund in referve I'his remarkable inftitution, may be confidered as a political feminary for the youth of Berne It renders them acquainted with the forms of the confhtution ; and, as the members debate upon all kinds of political fubjeds, affords them an opportunity of exercifing and improving their ta- lems, and by that means of becoming more ca- pable of ferving the public, wheneve? they may be admitted to a fliare in the adminiflration of government. I am, &c. C2 J^ E T T E R 20 LETTER 57" LETTER Si- Biographical and Literary Anecdotes of Haller. B >ERNE has produced few men highly emi- pent in literature ; but has eftabliflied her glory in being the birth-place of the celebrated Haller. Albert Haller *, the youngeft of five brothers, was born on the i6th of OSober^ 1708. His father, * The materials for this biographical /ketch, are chiefly col- leaed from the following lives of this great man, which, as I was informed, by his eldeft fon, fince deceafed, are ihofc to which moft credit may be given. i. Leben dcs Herm voa Haliery by George Zimmerman. Zuric, 1755. The author was the difciple and friend of HaJler. 2. Lubrede attf Herm Albrecht hre hterature, but with as liile'oS a"d method as might be expeded from his years. Haller, durmg his residence at Bienne, be^an a cuftom, which he afterwards followed throuLrJ '• ^'t "^ Tr^^ ^'' ^P^"5«^ -f the books which he perufed, and making large extraS . rom them. His genius being alfo a4keneTby the roinantic fcenery of the country to poetical enthufiaim, he compofed various pieces in the epic, dramatic, and lyric ft^-Ies. He was at thi« time io entirely abiorbed in' this favou^i^ l^ that on a fire breaking out in the houfe in which he refided, he rufhed into his apartment and refcued his poetry from the flames, leaW his other papers, with liule regret, to'deftruc! tion. Afterwards, when a more mature a^e had ripened his judgment, he was frequently^eSd to ay, that he had preferved froJ. th^ames thofe compofitions which he then thought the fineft productions of human genius, in oUr at unworthy ot his pen *. Io • Many of his biographers have confounaed thcfe two fafl. • hat' af Sicnn'^H ir°""t " -a.gcrati.n, huvriS,' ear- bu,rj h'« ■'"' .'""' ' ^'''"'^ °^ """^ ^bove his ftud>es : whereas, the very contrarv h lonenpH 2, r ,1 poetical pieces in preference to hts^ZTpatrs and'h ^'j them afterwards, becaule they would h;^eEUd hi, r^ S J: £r "l - J--i'e,Foduaions, ^he trclot US?; •tuth. Befides, as a confirmation of their evidence, lialler • did 24 LETTER 57^ In this period of his life, Haller compareji himfelf to a wild plant, which is left to grow without pruning; and this very circumftance was probably the principal caufe of his future profi- ciency, and the foundation of that univerfal knowledge, to which he afterwards attained. He had been originally intended for the law : but his aftive mind could not fubmit to follow a profeffion which would limit his inquiries ; which entirely depended on precedent and authority; and which, to ufe his own quotation from Horace, in a letter to his friend Bonnet, obliged him, Jurare in verba magiftri. And although he could not fubmit to the (hackles of that narrow philofophy, fo itrongly recom- mended and enforced by his new preceptor, yet* he appears to have been principally determined by his advice to dedicate himfelf to phyfic ; the * itudy of which comprehends fuch a variety of literary purfuits, as feemed congenial to the zeal and adivity of his capacious mind. He had no fooner formed this refolution, than he adopted a more regular and uniform plan, than he had hitherto been able to purfue. For this purpofe he removed, towards the end of 1723, to the univerfity of Tubingen, where he profecuted his fludies with that unwearied application, which never forfook him, under the profeifors Elias Ca^nerarius and Du Vernoy. From Camerarius he learned thofe found principles of rational phi- lofophy, iiitl not intermit his poetical fludies ; and wrote at Tubinaei^ his Morgen-^cdanken and Sehn-Sucbt^ which are the eanicJi Ipecmicns he ever pave ro the public. "* Anecdotes of Haller^ 15 lofophy, which teach us firft to doubt, and after- wards to believe ; and which are as far removed from credulity on one hand, as from fcepticifm on the other. From the ledures of Du Vernoy he imbibed his firft tafte for botany, and made fo rapid a progrefs in the fludy of anatomy, that his mafter predided, from feveral differtations, his future proficiency in that line. Notwith- (landing, however, his ftrong and invariable at- tachment to thefe two branches of natural hiftory^ he reprefents himfelf as ftudying, invitd Minerva^ ugainft nature; anatomy though he could not Jupport bad fmells, and botany though he was extremely Ihort-fighted. At Tubingen he alfo diftinguifhed his knowledge in mineralogy by refuting the error of Tournefort, in afcribing to foflils a vegetating power. During his continuance in that univerfity, he gave an inftance of his early controul over his * paflions; a difficult conqueft for a young man of ftrong feelings and lively imagination. A fmgle deviation into excefs, into which he had been hurried by the example of fome of his fellow- pupils, fo greatly affefted a perfon like him, no lefs enamoured of virtue, than fufceptible of in- genuous (hame, that he inftantly formed a refo- lution to abftain from wine; and adopted a ftriftnefs of morals, w^hich renders highly pro- bable the affertion of his French encomiaft, the Marquis de Condorcet, that he was defcended from a family, in which piety might be faid to be hereditary. In 1725, Haller repaired to Leyden, to which place he was drawn by the great reputation of Boerhaave. Here he found a more ample field for a difplay of hi& abilities, and the improve- ment 26 LETTER 57' ment of his mind. He became the favourite fcholar of Boerhaave, by whofe example and en- couragement he ftrengthened his growing incli- nation for botany. He noted down his mafter's lectures on the Injiitutes ef Medicine with fuch precifion, as afterwards gave birth to one of his mofl ufeful publications. He continued his ana- tomical ftudies under Albinus, juft then rifmg into fame, and the venerable Ruyfch, who fo highly improved the art of injedling anatomical preparations. The precarious ftate of his health, probably occafioned, or at lead increafed, by his intenfe application, induced him to accompany two of his countrymen through part of Germany. On his return, in 1726, he received his doftor's de- gree, though only in the nineteenth year of his age; and publifhed on that occaf/on his in- augural differ tation de Dudu falivali Cofchwi- ztano. In 1727 he vifited England, was favourably received by Chefelden, Douglas, and Sir Hans Sloane; and improved his kno\A/ ledge of me- dicine and furgery under the aufpices of thofe celebrated men, iind by diligently attending the hofpitals. At Paris, whither he next direfted his courfe, he ftudied botany under Geoffroy and Juffieu ; anatomy under Le Dran and Vinflow, a celc- brated furgeon. Vinflow was indeed his favou- rite malter, to whom he particularly attached himfelf ; whom he propofed to his difciples as the beft model for their imitation, as an anato- mift, who, ihackled by no fyftem, defcribed fimply and faithfully what he himfelf obferved in his diffedions. # Haller Anecdotes of Haller, 17 Haller had propofed to continue his tr.ivels to Italy, that country where medicinal knowledger firll revived in the darker ages, and where, ** ^rn'tt nvith the love cf f acred fong^^ he might indulge his enthufiafm and improve his tafte in clallical literature. The uncertain ftate of his health, the maladie du pays which fo remarkably affects the Swifs in foreign partsy and on which he has compol'ed a poem, together with the advice of his friends, prevailed over his inclination, and induced him to return to his native country. In his way to Berne he (lopped at Bafle, in order to ftudy mathematics and algebra under the celebrated John Bernoulli ; and in this, as well as every other inllance of his life, applied with fuch indefatigable perfeverance, as if thofe fciences were to form the fole objeft of his fu. ture refearches. His proficiency in thefe ftudies is fufficiently proved by feveral treatifes ftill ex- tant in manufcript, which he compofed on arith- metic and geometry, and particularly by his re- marks on the Marquis de rHofpitaPs Analyfis of Infinitefimals ; and his attachment to them bv his being deeply employed in a profound calcu- lation on the day of his marriage. But though he made fuch a progrefs as aftoniftied Bernoulli himfelf, he continued his other purfuits, being appointed to read ledures on anatomy during the iickneis of the profefibr : while he fulfilled the duties of that office, he alfo attended the ledures of Tzinger on the praiSlical pans of medicine ; thus at the fame time difplaying, with equal pro- priety. 28 LETTER 57- •priety, the dignity of' a profeffor, and the humi. lity of a pupil. jfe During the fummer of 1 729, he, in company xvith his friend John Gefner, made an excurfion into the mountains of Switzerland; an excurfion rendered memorable by its fuggefting to him the plan of a Flora Helvetica, and by infpiring his poem on the Alps, which he compofed in the 2rlt year of his age; a poem as fublime and im- mortal as the mountains which are the fubieft of his fong. Not to interrupt thefe biographical anecdotes with a chronological detail of his po- etical produdions, I fhall juft mention, that, not Jong after his poem on the Alps, he wrote his ethic epiftles, on the ImperfeSion of Human Vntue, on Superftition and Infidelity, on the Origin of Evil, on the Vanity of Honour, Va. nous Satires, Doris, a Paftoral on his firft wife, and his much admired Elegy on her death. It IS a convincing proof of Haller's verfatile genius and extraordmary mental powers, that he fliould have fo eminently excelled in poetry, which, except ,n his early youth, he never confidered othcrwife than as an amufement, either to footh him under affliclions, and in the bed of ficknefs, or to confole him for the envy and negleft cf his contemporaries. ° ^ The foundeft German critics place Haller simong the moft eminent of their poets ; and con- lider fubhmity as the grand charaaeriftic of his writings. 1 hey acknowledge, that he improved he harmony and richnefs of his native tongue ; that he poffeffed the higheft powers of invention and fancy ; great originality both in his ideas and language ; that he is the true colourift of nature ; that he founded the depths of metaphy- ' fical .0 Anecdotes of Haller. 29 fical and moralfcience ; that he equally excels m piaurefque (■fcriptions, in foft and delightful imagery, in elevated fentiments, and philoibphi- cal precifion. A few fupercilious critics have reproached his poetry with occafional obfcurities; and accufe him of having introduced a new Ian' guage affeftedly averfe to the common modes oi didion. Cold criticifm may cenfure; but twenty- two fucceffive editions of his German poems and the tranflation of them into the priiicipal languages of Europe, prove, that they polTefs the great aim of poetry, that of pleafing and in- terefting the reader. And it may be remarked with truth, that although Haller's ftupendous labours in erudition and fcience render his poeti- cal talents of inferior account ; yet that if he had confined himfelf to poetry^ that alone would have immortalized his name. But it is time to follow Haller to his native city, >yhere he returned, in 1729, expedin^ from his countrymen that refpeft and patronage he had fo liberally received abroad. He had' however, the mortification to experience that negled, and even envy, to which everv man of gemus is expofed in his own country, and which he leems to have augmented by liis fatirical com- pofitions. ^ He continued three years without having the intereft to procure any public employment; "and^ though he prevailed on Government to eftabh'fh an anatomical rheatre, and gave ledures gratis • yet he did not fucceed in obtaining the place of phyfician to the hofpital, which he much defired. He alfo folicited a profeffoi ftip, and was again repulfed. He feems to have lenfiblv felt thefe diiappointments; and he expreflfed hi/imparience and I til... .^-, 30 LETTER s7' and indignation in his fatirical poems. Inftead, however, of damping his a(5U!idw or abating the ardour of his genius, he redoubled his applica- tion and fervices in order to force himfelf into public notice. The firft diftinguifhing tribute to his literary talents was paid by the Royal Society of Upfala, which, in 1735, chofc him a member. This eleSion was the prelude to more honourable and beneficial employments. In the fame year lus countrymen at length acknowledged his merit, by appointing him director of an hofpital and public librarian. In the former fituation he dif- tinguilhed himfelf by his zeal and humanity ; in the latter, he bellowed great pains in arranging the library, and in forming the firft catalogue. Scarcely any branch of literature, however re- mote from his ufual occupations, was omitted by Haller, whenever an opportunity prefented iiffclf, either of improving his general knowledge, or of being ufeful to fcience. Finding in the public library a collection of antient medals, which had been hitherto neglefled; he took con- fiderable pleafure in clafling them. His love of hiltory led him to pay great attention to the ftudy of medals, which he julUy confidered as the moil authentic documents of hiftorical truth, and the moii certain monuments to afcertain the ever- fiucluadng ftate of language. His literary reputation began now to fpread itfelf by various botanical, anatomical, and me- dical publications, and by a collection of^ poems*, which firil made its appearance in 1732. * Verfmh ^chivAl'z.erlfiher CeJkhle, X^e hci\ edition is pf^ntcd At Berne, i775_. Ax needotes of Haller. 3 x At lengtiH^dK3^9 he received, unfolicited on his part, t^plrer of the profeiTorfhip of phy- fic, botany, and furgery, in the univerfity of Gottingen, newly eftablilhed by George the Se- cond. Notwithftanding, however, aJl the ad- vantages and honours which accompanied this offer, he, for fome time, hefitated whether he fhould accept it. He had, in 1731, efpoufed a young lady of good family, whofe great beauty and accomplifhments were rendered ftill more endearing by her affectionate fubferviency to his manner of life. She had brought him three children ; and thefe ties attached him more ftrongly to his native place, where his merits had procured him many fincere friends ; and the air of which he confidered as in fome refped: necef- fary for the continuance of his health. On the contrary, the honour of being invited by fo great a monarch, the dignity of the eftablifhment to w^hich he was called, and the confideration of having a more ample theatre for the improve- ment of his knowledge, induced him to remove to Gottingen. He quitted, however, Berne with much re- gret ; prefaging, as it were, the heavy ftroke which overtook him foon after his arrival in that univerfity. He loft his wife. The death of his beloved Marianne, whofe memory he has cele- brated in a pathetic elegy, afliicled him fo deeply, that it almoft brought him to the grave. In this crifis of defpondency he redoubled his applica^ tion, as the moft probable means of fubduin^ his forrow ;7'«nd the duties of his ftation forced him from fife a)ntemplaLion of his own o-rief into public life.^ Pf irmp* i^ LETT /• During feventeen years, i^w ^e refided at Getting en, where his abilitioltapanded in pro* portion as his opportunities of acquiring know- ledge increaied ; he obtained from government the eftabhfhment of a botanical garden, which he fuperintended, of an anatomical theatre, a fchool for midwifery, and a college for the improve- fi^ent of furgery. He formed the plan for a Koyal Society of Sciences, of which he was ap- poiiued perpetual prefident. 'i he comprehenfive mind and verfatile genius of Ilaller, united with his unremitting diligence Aiid ardour in all his purluits, enabled him to cultivate, with uncommon luccels, a variety of knowledge. Had not the great Swede pre-occu- pied the field, it is probable, that Haller would have flood the fiift among his contemporaries as an improver of botanical knowledge *. Yet bo- tany wiis not among his earlieft purfuits, for he informs us, that he had made no advances in it tintil his return from his travels : during his re* fidence at Bafle, in the year 1728, as if infpired, he fays, by the genius of that place, which had Burtured the Bauhines, and where at that period botany was fuccefsfuUy cultivated by Stahelin, he laid the defign of his future Flora. From this time he made annual journies into vaiious parts of Switzerland, and principally among the -Alps. He cultivated the correfpondence of the moil eminent botanifts; particularly with Scheut- zer, Ludwig, Linnaeus, Van Roy en, iind Dr. * I (liould not have prefumed to have account of Hitller's betanicai, medical, or i? ] had not received afliftance on thefe icdic;o'-is triend Dr. Pulteney. an )ii detailed niic;il works, com my very John Anecdom of Haller. 03 John Gefner m Zuric, who had alfo meditated a de/ign to pul^^ a Swifs Flora, and freely communicated his materials to Haller. His eftablifliment at Gottingen afterwards en- jarged his views and opportunities; and at length m 1742, his great botanical work on the plants ot Switzerland, the refult of fourteen years lludv made us appearance. It was entitled, Enumera^ Uo Metbodica Stirp'ium Helvetia, in 2 vols folio. It was the moifl copious Flora the world had ever ieen, comprizing 1,840 fpecies, and was enriched with feveral advantages, that rendered it fingu- iarly acceptable. The preface contains acorn- pendious geographical defcription of Switzerland, and of the Alps particularly ; an account of all the authors who had written on the plants of that country; the recital of his own journies; acknow- ledgments to thofe who had aflifted him ; con- eluding with the order and method he means to purfue in this work. After the preface follows a chronological ac- count of 268 volumes, which he cites in the work,^ each accompanied by a general charafter; in which, with great candour and impartiality, he points out the merit or demerit of the author^ la the manner which he afterwards purfued in i^ ^^^^^"^^^ ^^'^'^'' ^edlei, and in the Bibliotheca Medtcince. This is in reality a very ufeful and entertaining part of his work, inafmuch as it torms almoft a hi (lory of the progrefs of the fci- ence, from the time of Brunfdfius to his own. He next de«neates his own fyftem of botany, aqcordmg l^tvhich the plants are difpofed. Ihroughout this great work, Haller is entirely an original : not fatisfying himfelf with giving the JKelcriptiQas of former writers ; he appears . "Vol. II. ^ D. ^ r j4 LETTER 57- everv where to have defcribed the plant himfelf, Sid to have formed new genera, and commonly newfpecifical charaaers for the whole, accom- modated to his own fyftem. He informs us that h was Hs cuftom to write down the natura cha- raaen of each plant on the day he ^^"^ U. In treating on each fpecies, he has not only added a moft copious number of fynonymes, but, unfatisfied wrth Bauhine's Pinax, he appears t^ Save confulted all the old authors, and «"'"«J their fynonvmes, with micommon diligence and fmgular difcrimination. And thefe are arranged as much as poff.ble, in chronological order ; a method highly worthy of imitation, as ^t exhibits S one view,^ brief hiftory of the phnt, by pointing out the firft difcoverer, >«d;J^- «r"j of Its growth. This, to the curious botamft,i3 a very meritorious part of Halter's kboar. To each s fubtoined a fumtnary account, from the beft writer , of the qualities and ufes, both «co. Bc^icai. and medlcaK "iTie work is e"lbdlifced ^ith plates of fome rare fpeeies, remarkabk for their exadnefs and delicacy. Havme in 1 741, obtained from the kmg of Great fen the eftablifliment of the phyfic eardeu at Gottingen, HaHer publrihed the fol- Eg year a catalogue of its phnt, '1 his was S^a fmall volume, but the lift ferved to fhew Ae diSce with ^hich he had fulfilled the in. ention of the royal founder. In . 7 5 . he much enlarged it, and comprehended the plants fpon. taneoufly growing in the environs, efpecially thofe of th^ Black Foreft. He informs us that this volume was the produaion of a three months vacation, and laments that the importance of his ISr avocations, prevented him from fulfilling Anndotes of Hallef. 4* his intention of defcribing the plants of Germany This little work is curious, fince It exempli, hes his fyftem as extended to-exotics, of which the new and rare kinds are herein defcribed. ^ut the fmaJl fize of the volume precluded the introdudion of the generical charafters. .In 1^4), he gratified the botanifts by anew edition of the Ptora Jenenfts of Ruppius ; and, that he might do juftice to his author. He took a journey to Jena, where he gained accefs to the papers and hortus fucus of the author. He pre- fixed to this book anecdotes of this extraordinary man ; and, by reforming the whole, and au/- mentmg ,t with many plants, difcovered by him- ' "^ '? '°™'^ meafure made it a Flora Germa- ntca. Thefe performances were by no means the termination of his botanical labours. On his return to Switzerland he continued his difco- venes in this branch of natural hiftory; he alfo ent at his own expence, perfons properly qua- land '°^° frequented parts of Switzer. The refuit appeai-ed in a he\«r edition of the tnumeratw, which however was fo much im- proved and altered, that he confiders it as a new work. It was publifhed in three vols. fol. in 1768, under the title of Hi/ioria Stirpium indite. narum Helvetia, incheata. The fubjed is ar ranged in his own method^ With the alteration however, of inverting the order of the claffesi beginnij^ with the Cmpoftta, or the Syngcnefid clafs of Linnaeus* and ending with the ryptoia- ma which flood firft in the Enumeratio /both ot which are objeaionable, as fubjeaing the ftu- dent to the moft difficult parts of the fyftem at ^» his !| 3(i LETTER S7' his entrance on the ftudy. Several interefting particulars of the former publication are alfo omitted in thefe volumes, of which curious bo- tanifts will much regret the lofs : for, though he has inferted, with enlargement, the phyfical geo- graphy of Switzerland, together with the ac- count of thofe authors who had previoufly inyef- tigated the plants of the country, and has recited his own excurfions for that purpofe ; yet he has not introduced the critical catalogue of the au- thors, fatisfying himfelf with giving a bare lift of all the botanical writings, from the time of Theo- phraftus to the year 1768. It is ftill more to be regretted, that Haller has fuppreffed, in this edi- tion, a great number of fynonymes under each plant ; inferting only a few of thofe of later date. It may further be remarked, that although in all poflible inftances he has introduced the fyno- nymes of Linnaeus, yet he has, unfortunately for fuch as ufe the works of both, omitted Linnaus[s trivial names ; a circumftance which renders his book much lefs ufeful to thofe who are conver- fant in the fexual fyftem. Yet, if thefe are de- fefts, they are doubtlefs more than compenfated, by the innumerable improvements made in the defcriptions, both of the genera and fpecies, by the great addition to the number of plants, which are extended from 184010 2486, of which more than 800 are of the Cryptogamia clafs ; Haller having, after Micheli, beyond any of his con- temporaries, enlarged the orders of Fungi, of which he tells us,, he had the paintings of more than 400 fpecies drawn under his own infpedtion. It is not, however, furprizing, that Switzerland fhould produce a greater variety of vegetables than the middle parts of Europe; when we re- fleft Anecdotes of Haller. ^y ilea that the alpine fituations afford growth to the plants of the ardic regions, and the warm vallies of the fame country, to many of thofe common to fouthern. The value of this edition is much enhanced by enlarging the obfervations on the ufes of plants ; and by referring to his authorities for what is not his own, with his accuftomed accuracy. As an acceffion to this work, it may be added, that the author has, in the notes, under each genus, introduced the plants of Theophraftus and Diofcorides, in as many inftances as they admit of beins afcer- tamed. Few botanifts have laboured more than Hal- ler; and yet his discoveries in botany occu- pied only a comparatively fmall portion of his time. To fuch as feel not, in the fulleft extent, tha^ enthufiafm which the love of fcience creates, it inay appear a paradox to affert, that the diffec- tion of human bodies could be a pleafurable em- ployment ; yet Haller, in 1742, pronounced an elegant and fpirited euiogium, in the univerfity of Gottingen, to prove it ; and his zeal in the purfuit of anatomical difcoveries was attended with uncommon fuccefs. He feems early to have apprehended, that the knowledge of the diftribution of the arterial fyftem, had not kept pace with that of the bones, mufcles, nerves, and vifcera, which had been feparately and ably treated by men of eminence. Haller, therefore, wiCied^o illuftrate more perfeftly this part of the human body ; and he gave to the world a more complete fyftem on the fubjeft than had yet appeared. He publifhed the firft part of this great work in 1743, and the laft in 1756. Hii traftf I 38 LETTER s7' trafts on other parts of anatomy, when collefled in 1768, form three vols, in 410. Thofe who are curious, may fee an enumeration of hh many difcoveries in anatomy and phyfiology, at the head of the fixth volume of his Phyfiology : and although fome of thefe may have been con- tefted by his contemporaries ; yet his unalienable right to moft of them, and th^ light particu- larly which he threw upon incubations, oflifica- tion, irritability, and feveral other parts of the animal oeconomy, will unqueftionably fecure tq him a large and honourable ihare of fame with poflerity. Haller's emoluments augmented as his merits were difplayed ; andi honours JSowed uppn him from all quarters. He was eleded, in 17485^ into the Royal Society of Stockholm, into that of London, in 1749, and, in i754> chofen one of the eight foreign members in the Academy of Sciences at Paris. In 1739, be was appointed phyfician to George the Second, and king's counfellor in 1740^ In I749^ ^he emperor Francis conferred on him letters of nobility at the r^queft of George the Second ; and about the fame time the king, in a vifit which he paid to the univerfity, diftinguifbed Haller with par- ticular marks of approbation : an honour which the author gratefully acknowledges, in an Eag- lifli publication, intitled, ^^ A fhort Narrative of the King's Journey to Gottingen,^ and in the dedication to George the Second, prefixed to his i edition of Boerhaave's Methodus Studii Medici. He declined, in 1745, an invitation to Ox- ford, which would probably have terminated in his nomination to the profefforfhip of botany, vacant by the death of the celebrated Dillenius i a fecond Anudotss of Holler. 39 » fecond from the univerfity of Utrecht; and, in 1750, a third from the king of Pruffia, with the offer of a very -confiderable penfioa. But of all his promotions, none gave him more real fatisfaftion, than hi« election into the Great Council of Berne, as it infured to him a retreat accompanied with cJigniiy^ and probably with emolument, in his native city, to which he looked forward with affec^^ion and attachment. At length, in 1753, induced by the precarious ftate of his health, by the defire of removing from Gottingen, which he called the grave of his wives *, and by his earneft anxiety to dedicate the * Haller was tlinee times married, firfl to Marianne Wytfen, \n 1731, who died in 1736. 2. lo Elizabeth Buchers, in *738» who died in childbed the fame or the following year; both natives of Berne, 3, In 1739, to Amelia Frederica Teichmeycr, a German lady, who furvived him. He has written and publiihed the lives of his two firft wives. He left «ight child ree, four fons a»d four vdaughters : all of whom he lived to fee eftablilhed. His eldeft fon, Gotlieb Emanuel, who was born in 173:', followed his father's example in dedi- cating himfdf to the fervice of his country, and to the purfuits of literature. He was eleded member of the Great Council, ^nd obtained various employments under government, particu^ Jarly the bailliage of Nyon, ip which fituation he died in 1 786. ' He diftinguiftied himfelf as an author by various publications tending to illuftrate the hiftory and literature of Switzerland, zad particularly by his SchwatzerMbliothek^ or Swifs Library, in 6 volumes 8vo- of which he lived to publifli only the firlK In this work, defer vedJy efteeme4 for its method and accuracy, the indefatigable author enumerates all the books which treat of Switzerland, in all languages, and all the works publifhcd by the Swifs on all fubjefts. He even defcends to the minuteft articles which have appeared in reviews and journals ; and in ^" moft inftances, where the publication deferves detail, analyfes the contents, correfls the errors, and gives his opinion qxk the merits of the perfornunce* I w» n 40 L E T T E R 57. the remainder of his days to the fervice of his country, he took a journey to Berne, in or. IL E labour. 5^ LETTER 57' labour, will fade away like the dream of afl infant." Thefe little weaknefles of a great mind over- powered bv conftitutional irritability^ and flrug- gling againft early prejudices, are more intereft- ing to the man who feels and refpeds the im- perfeftions of human nature, even in its mofl exalted flate, than the mofl: pompous and exag- gerated accounts of tuicrring wifdom, or utuform virtue, which never exifted. And it is a pleaf- ing fatisfaclion to learn, that reafon and religion rofe fuperior to the gloomy defpondency of fick- nefs \ and that Haller met death with the calm- nefs of a philofopher^ and the faith of a Chril- tian. In the lad letter which he wrote, a few days before his deceafe, he fpeaks indeed of the tremendous grandeur of eternity, but with hopes tathet than with fears ; and looks back upon his pafl: life with fatisfadion : amidft a few com- plaints uttered, on his painful fufTerings, he men- tions his country with the moft ardent afFeftion, And offers up his laft prayers for its prefervation and welfare. He continued his literary labours, and preferved his fenfes and compofure to the laft moment; he beheld his end approaching without fear and regret ; " My friend,'* faid he to the phyfician who attended him, " I die, my pulfe is flopped," and then expired. He died on the 1 2th of December, 1777, in the feven- tieth year of his age. — Thus lived, and thus died, the great Haller ; a man to whom Mi- chaelis, the eminent orientalift, juftly applies an oofcrvation which had been made on the genius of Ariftotle ; " iieq^iie cotlo^ neque terra, neqite ff^ari qiiicquam relinquere voluit incognitum, indole praterea Anecdotes of Haller. ^ j praterea adeo mirabili, ut ad fvigula natum tre^ apue dicas*.'* ^ In his psrfon Haller was tall and majeflic, of a lerious and exprefTive countenance ; he had at tunes an open fmile, always a pleafin^ tone of voice, ufually low, and feldom elevated, even when he was moft agitated. He was fond of unbendmg himfelf in fociety, was on thofe oc- cafions remarkably cheerful, polite, and atten. tiye ; he would converfe with the ladies on fa- ihions, modes of drefs, and other trifles, with as much eafe as if he had never fecluded himfelf from the world. Mr. Bonnet informed me, that Haller wrote t^^ith equal facility the German, French, and Latin tongues ; that he was fo well acquainted TiV E?^,.^^^«Pe,^» languages, except the Ruflian Pohfh, and Hungarian, as to fpeak with the natives in their refpedive idioms. When he converfed on any fcience or fubieft of literature, his knowledge was fo extenfive, that he feemed to have made that his particular Itudy. His profound erudition in every branch of fcience IS well known to all who are conver- sant with his works : but the variety of his in- formation, and the verfatility of his talents, are hus delineated by a perfon f, who was his par- ticular friend. " He poiTefTed a fundamental knowledge of natural hiftory j was well read in ^ 2 hi/lory * H. left nothing unexplored, cither, in the heavens on ^^""'rt "I "f '""'h ^"'r "^^ "^' ^"^^ ^ wonderful 'a- l^fuit ^^^ immediate -objefl cf his t Tlcharner Lobrede, &c. p. 87. :li^ 52 L E T T E R 57- hiftory both antient and modern, univerfal and particular ; and uncommonly verfed in the ftate of agriculture, manufadures, trade, population, literature, and languages of the refpedive na- tions of Europe : he had read with attention the mod remarkable voyages and travels ; and was particularly converfant in the late difcoveries which tend to illuftrate the geography of the globe. He had even perufed many thoufond novels and plays ; and poffeffed fuch an aftonifh- ing memory, that he could detail their contents with the utmoft precifion. As it was his cuftom to make extrafts, and to give his opinion of every book which came into his hands, as well for his own private ufe, as for the Gottingen Review *, he read moft new pub- lications, and fo eager was he ufually in the pe- rufal, that he laid them upon the table even when he was at dinner, occafionally looking irito them, and marking thofe parts with a pencil, which he afterwards extrafted or commented upon. He was accuftomed* to make his remarks Qii fmall pieces of paper, of different fizes, which he placed in order, and faftened together^; a method he learned from Leibnitz. He derived from nature extreme fenfibility, or rather irritability of temper, which is ever the child of genius. He fpoke therefore from his own experience, when, in a letter to Voltaire, he thus expreffed himfelf :— " Providence holds with an equal hand the balance of human hap- pinefs. * Kaller reviewed, as his department for that literary journal, iill publications on hiftory, medicine, anatomy, na- V.ual hiitciy, and feveral mifceilaneous works, particularly thols whiwh a^ipcared in Italy. Anecdotes of Hal/er, ^^ pinefs. He has loaded you with riches, he has loaded you with glory ; but misfortune was ne- cefTary, and he preferved the equilibrium by giving you fenfibility. If my wiflies could take effea, I would beitow upon you that tranquillity which flies at the approach of genius, which is inferior to genius in relation to fociety, but far fuperior in regard to ourfelves : then' the- moft celebrated man in Europe ihould be at the fame time the moft happy *." He was always impatient under ficknefs, as well from his extreme fufceptibility of pain, as becaufe he was precluded in that fituation from his hterary occupations. He was fond, there- fore, of taking violent remedies, more calculated to remove the immediate effefts of pain, and to check his diforder, than to cure it radically. In his latter years he accuftomed himfelf to opium, which, operating as a temporary palliative, only increafed his natural impatience. This reftleff- nefs of temper, which occafionally difturbed his tranquillity even in his younger days, and in the full flow of his health and fpirits, was confider- ably heightened by the advances of age, and thfe diforders which fhattered his frame towards the clofe of his days. His * II faut lien que la providence veuille tenir la lalance egale pour ions les huma'ins. Elle njous a comble de bictis, elk vous a comble d. gloire ; mais ii vols falloit du mnlheur, elle a trouve P equllibre en yous rendant fen/ible, — Si les fouhaits avoient du pouvoir, fajoulerois aux bienfaits du deft'in ; je vous domie- rois de la tranquWite, qui fuit dt^vant le genie, qui ne le ^aut pas par rapport a la fociete ; mais qui vaut lien davantage par rapport a nous-meme : des-lors I'uomme le plus celebre de t Europe feroit aujfi le plus heureux* '*i6Hl .<• V - % S4 LETTER 57' Anecdotes of Haller. 55 His correfpondence in every period of his life was extenfive, punctual, and carried on in the Englifli, French, German, Latin, and Ita- lian languages. Six volumes of Latin epiftles, and three m the German tongue, addreffed to him from men of learning in various parts of Europe, have been given to the public, but his own have never made their Appearance. It is much to be lamented, that he feldom preferved any copies, being himfelf too much occupied for that purpofe ; and never fufficiently ^ rich to maintain a fecretary. His two principal cor- refpondents, to whom he opened his heart, were Bonnet of Geneva, and John Gefner of Zuric: to the latter he wrote either in Ger- man or Latin, to Mr. Bonnet in the French tongue. This celebrated friend of Haller pof- feffes feven manufcript volumes of his letters : it was an uninterrupted correfpondence of twenty-three years; begun in March, 1754, and finifhing only a few days before his death, in December, 1777. This epiftolary commerce comprehends a great variety of fubjefts, prm- cipally concerning phyfiology, natural hiftory, the ftrufture of the globe, politics, morality, and religion. Haller being accuftomed to con- lult his friend on all occafions, to difclofe his moft fecret thoughts, and to relate his diur- nal occupations ; thefe effufions of the moment difcover the fucceflive train of his ftudics, the progrefs of his difcoveries, and his gradual ad- vances in knowledge. " Thefe letters of my moft refpeftable friend," added Bonnet, " difplay his genius, his his undcrftanding, and the goodnefs 6f his heart, more fully than any of his publications. His ftyle, concife, energetic yet pifturefque, correfponds with the ftrength and originality of his ideas ; and he fpeak^, with no lefs fublimity than conviction, of the great truths of natural and revealed religion. Though he treats the numerous advocates for infidelity, and particularly Voltaire, with fufticient feve- rity; yet his heat is the ardour of conviftion, and did not proceed from either pique or fpirit of contradidion : he feemed as if he was per- fonally interelled in all queftions on revela- tion, and pleaded its caufe as if it had beqn his own. He is no lefs fevere againft thofe writers, who feem to exclude the intervention of a firft intelledual caufe in the creation and arrangement of the univerfe, and parti- cularly cenfures the materialifts, who endea- vour to deduce mechanically the formation of organized bodies. In a word, his philofophy was entirely practical, becaufe it was entirely Chriftian ; and nothing fecured his approbation, but what tended to improve the underftanding, or to amend the heart.'' I am concerned to find, that the publication of this correfpondence, between two fuch en- lightened and virtuous philofophers as Haller and Bonnet, which in fome works had been announced to the public, ftiould, on account of private reafons, be relinquifhed. Religion, morality, philofophy, and learning, would be greatly benefited by this epiltolary commerce. Haller's library, confifting of about four thou- fand volumes, was purchaled for ;C'^30QQ ^V the 56 L E T T E R 57- the emperor, for the public library of Milan, where I examined it in 1785. The colleftion is particularly rich in books of natural hiftory, and is rendered invaluable from numerous anno- tations of Haller, written on the margins. 'WBIIj LETTER ^ v^ \ K" 1> •/ •5. •x ^i \ ^ :^ v^i 1 >^ \ ^ N i^ ^ '< S "^ \ ^ V X -^ Mr. Sprungli's Celkffion of Birds. 57 LETTER 58. i 4 ■ Mr. SprungWs Colkaion of Swifs Birds— Of the Bearded Vulture. tLi D URING my various expeditions through Berne, I never omitted vifiting Mr. Sprungh's cabinet of natural hiftory, which is remarkable for the colledion of fluffed birds, both local and migratory, that are found in Switzerland. In 1776, this colledion confifted of two hun- dred fpecimens ; and when I laft vifited Berne, in 1786, it had received an addition of fifty fpecies. As naturalifts have long expeded with impa- tience an account of this invaluable colledion, I obtained from Mr. Sprungli the enclofed cata- logue, which will affift me in attempting to form a Faunula Helvetica *. One of the moft remarkable birds in Mr. Sprungli's colledion, is the vultur barbatus of Linnaeus, the vultur aureus of Gefner, or bearded vulture of the Englifti ornithologifts. As many fabulous tales have been related concerning its uncommon ftrength and rapacioufnefs ; as great i' f i ■M * See the latter end of this Volume. confufion 58 LETTER 58. confufion has arifen from the variety of names applied by different naturalifls to the fame bird ; and as feme travellers have doubted whether this fpecimen is the large vulture of the Alps, or the golden vulture of Conrad Gefner ; I fhall here fubjoin a defcription from particulars principally commu. Jcated to me by Mr. Sprungli himfelf, accompanied with a drawing of the head from the natural fize. This fpecimen was a female bird, caught in the canton of Glarus ; it meafured from the tip of the beak to the extremity of the tail, fix feet fix inches French * meafure ; and eight feet from the tip of one wing to that of the other expanded. It weighed, when firft taken, eleven pounds. This bird, though always called a vulture, yet differs from that genus, and is referable to the eagle, in having the head and neck covered with feathers ; whereas one of the diftinSions of the vulture, according to Linnaeus, is that th^ head is deftitute of feathers. Notwithftanding this diftinguifliing mark, by which it is referable to the eagle or falco genus ; yet Linnsbus was probably induced to clafs it with the vultures, from the general form of the body, and fhape of the beak, which is the frjl effential charafteriftic in the genera of birds. Mr. Sprungli, however, is of opinion, that it might be claflcd between the vulture and the eagle ; and Stor f propofes to form a new genus of it, under the name of gypaetus, by thd following characters : * Six ftet eleven inches -J- EngUn^, and eight feet fix inches ^\. f Sec Stores AJpcn Rcifcn, vol. u ' • * Rojlrum Of the Bearded Vulture. 59 Rojirum rc6lum^ hafi cera injlrudum fcth por^ reSlis confertijjlmis barbaiu?n; apice audum unco fulcatQ. Caput penn'is tedtuiu The fpecific chara£i:er he would define thus : Gypaetus (grandis) olbido-rutilus dorfo fufcus^ tmnia mgrafupra et infra oculos. It inhabits the higheii: parts of the great chain of the Alps which feparates Switzerland from Italy ; it makes its neft in (lefts of rocks inac* cefTible to man, and ufually produces three young ones at a time, fometinies four ; as may be judged from that number accompanying the old birds, when they defcend into the lower re- gions for prey. They live on animals which inhabit the Alps, fuch as the chamois, white hares, marmots, fnow hens, kids, and particu- larly lambs, from which circumflance it is called laminer-gayer^ or lamb Vulture. ^ If common report may be credited, this rapa- cious creature foiiietimes attacks even man, and carries oft' children. Mr. Sprungli, without ab. folutely denying the poflibility of this account, has, notwithltandirtg all his refearches, never been able to aicertain a well-authenticated in- ftance; and thence rather concludes it to be a fable invented by the peafanis to frighten their children. This fpecies does not appear but in fmall companies, ufually confifting of the two old birds and their vounii. /■> 1 « JO Conrad Gefner has given a fliort but accurate defcription of this bird under the name of -cultur m aureus^ i « \ 1 6o LETTER 58. aureus^ or gold geyer * ; and an engraving from a fkin fent to him from the Grifons. This figure, although rudely executed, yet exhibits with fufEcient accuracy the diftinguifhing cha- raders of the fpecies and genus, fuch as the con- figuration of the beak, the legs feathered down to the claws, and particularly the beard. In fine, a comparifon with the fpecimen in Mr. Sprungli's collection evidently proves that it is the fame bird. Since this great naturalifl:, no other perfon feems to have defcribed it from nature, except Edwards, under the denomination of the bearded vulture. The defcription of that bird, and the engraving given by Edwards f from a fpecimen fent from 8anta Cruz in Barbary, correfpond exactly with the vultur harbatus of Sprungli ; and the head, if compared with the drawing an- nexed to this account, will be found to anfwer fufficiently. Mr, Sprungli alfo favoured me with the fol- lowing remarks, in anfwer to thofe travellers who affert, that his fpecimen is not the large vulture of the Alps, fometimes called, from its yellozvijl:) plumage, the vauteur jaune^ but a fmaller fpecies ; becaufe the larger fort meafures fometimes fourteen feet, or more, from the tip of one wing to that of the other. He poffefles two fpecimens of this bird ; the one a full grown female, from which my defcription and drawing are taken, meafuring eight French feet : the other is a male, but young, and is fomewhat lefs. He has alfo examined four fpecimens, none of Of the Bearded Vulture. 61 * See Hijl. yfviumy edit, Frank, p. 710. f See tab. 106. of his Hiflory. which which meafured more than nine feet ; but as thefe feveral fpecimens were not full grown males, he is ready to allow, that an inftance or two may poflibly have occurred, in which this bird may have meafured near twelve feet from tip to tip of the wing. Thofe who give it a greater expanfion, have derived their informa- tion either from perfons who were not natural- ifts, or from uncertain and exaggerated reports. The fame remark may alfo be applied to the fa- bulous ftories recorded by the peafants, concern- ing its wonderful ftrength as well as fize. It is likewife to be obferved, that the peafants do not confine the name of lavimer-geyer to this fpecies ; but extend it indifcriminately to feveral large birds of prey, from whence has arifen great con- fufion of names, and much uncertainty in the accounts of this bird. Some ornithologifts feem to have formed of it feveral fpecies; which on comparifon will appear to be the fame, or only varieties of the fame fpe- cies. Thus the bearded vulture, the cinereous vulture, and the fulvous vulture, which Mr. La- tham has defcribed as three different fpecies, are probably the fame bird as that in Mr. Sprungli's colleftion. Of the firft there can be no doubt, fince Mr. Latham refers to the bearded vulture of Edwards, which I have fhewn to be that of Mr. Sprungli. The cinereous vulture is defcribed by Latham after Briifon : " Beneath the throat hangs a kind of beard, compofed of very narrow feathers like hairs ; legs covered with feathers quite to the toes, which are yellow ; claws black*. This defcription accords with the bird * 5j'w. vol. i. p. 14. m 'i^i r 62 LETTER 58. in queflion, and particularly in the beard, which is the diilinguifhing charafteriftic. The fulvous vulture of Latham is the griflin of Buffon : and the French naturalifl doubts whether it is not a variety of Gefner's golden vulture, which is proved to be the fame as Mr* Sprungii's fpeciinen. While -the moll celebrated ornithologifts have thus given to the bird different names, they have alfo in other inflances confounded it with other birds, to which it has no other refemblance than that of fize, ftrength, and voracity. Thus Buifon erroneoufly conjedures the vul^ ttir gryphus of Linnaeus, or the condor of Ame- rica, to be the fame as the lafmner-geyer^ or vul- ture of the Alps ; whereas the description of the condor given by Linnxus, as well as by thofe who had feen it, differs entirely from that of the bearded vulture. The condor is defcribed by the Swede as having " the head deftitute of feathers, but covered with a (light brown co- loured down, with a comb reaching along the top of the head, and having the throat naked and of a reddilh colour." Frezier, in his Voy- age to the South Seas, alfo thus defcribes the condor:—" We one day killed a bird of prey called a condor, which was nine feet from the end of one wing to the end of the other, and had a brown comb or crell, but not jagged like a cock's : the fore part of its throat is red with- out feathers, like a turkey ; and they are gene- rally large and ftrong enough to take up a lamb. In order to get them from the flock, they draw themfelves into a circle, and advance towards them with their wings extended, that being drove together, and too clofe, they may not be i m able Of the Beafded Vulture. 6^ - able to defend themfelves ; then they pick them out and carry them off. Garcilaffo fays, there are fome in Peru fixteen feet from the point of one wing to the other, and that a certain nation of Indians adored them." Mr. Latham feems alfo to be no lefs miftaken, when, on the authority of the tranflator of the Abbe Fortis's Travels into Dalmatia, he con- ceives the vuliur pcrcnopterus of Linnaeus to be the vautour des Alpes defcribed by Conrad Gt^^ ner, and the fame as Mr. Sprungli's fpecimen j whereas, on the authority of Haffelquifl, who faw great numbers of the pcrcnopteri in Egypt, the head of that bird is " naked and wrinkled;" and Ray fays, the feet are naked ; two charafters that effentially diftinguifli it from the bearded vulture, in which the head is wholly covered ivith feathers, and alfo the feet down to the ends of the claws. The bearded vulture, befides inhabiting thofe Alps which feparate Italy from Switzerland, is found in Corfica and Sardinia. M. de Hahn informed Mr. Sprungli, that he faw a bird in Corfica which was wounded in the wing, and fliewed as a fight, that was unqueftionably the fame as Mr- Sprungli's fluffed fpecimen: and M. Lettel, in his Natural Hiflory of Sardinia, gives a figure and defcription of the fame bird, under the name of bartgeyer^ or bearded vulture. It has alfo been found in the mountains of Africa, fince Mr. Edwards received his fpecimen from Santa Cruz in Barbary. It is alfo frequent on Caucafus and the mountains of Dauria, or the fouth-eaftern part of Siberia, as we learn from the travels of both Pallas and Gmelin. You 64 LETTER 58, You will perhaps be furprized not to find among the Swifs birds in the annexed catalogue, the aigle blanc^ or aquila alba of * Briffon ; the falco Italicus f, and the falco montaniis of the fame \ ; as particularly zwitzer-falk^ the German name of the latter, feems neceffarily to imply that it muft be a Swifs bird : Mr. Sprungli how- ever affured me, that he never had been able to difcover any of thefe fpecies in the Alps ; that probably the aigle blanc^ if it exifts, is a variety of the chryfaetos ; and that both Briflbn and Willoughby do not cite Gefner for their defcrip- tions of xht falco italicus^ but thofe only who have never been in the Alps. Of the crows it is worthy of obfervation, that the corvus graculus of Linnaeus, or coracias of Briffon, is faithfully reprefented by Mr. Pennant, in his Britifh Zoology, under the denomination of the red-legged crow. It is the fame bird of which Conrad Gefner § has given a figure, and to which he applies the German appellations, taha^ jieintaheriy Jleinkraey and which he juftly fufpects to be the comix cornubice^ or the red- legged crow. The pyrrhocorax of Gefner, which fome ornithologifts feem to have confounded with the corvus graculus^ is however very differ- ent, and is called by Linnaeus corvus pyrrhocorax. Both thefe fpecies inhabit the Alps, but the pyrr- hocorax is the moft common ; and thefe appear, according to Mr. Sprungli's obfervations, to be the only fpecies of the crow genus that prefer to all others alpine fituations. As to the corvus ereniita of Linnaeus, Mr. Sprungli acknowledges * I. p. 424. t Tb. p. 336. S B'tji. A-j. id, Frank, p. 46Ji. X lb p. 352. It Of the Bearded Vulture. 65 it IS totally unknown to him. All the ornitho- logifts indeed mention this bird as an inhabitant of the Alps, on the authority of Conrad Gefner, who defcribes it under the name of corvus fylva- ticusy accompanied with a figure, which has not the leafl: refemblance to a crow, but rather to a curlew ; yet Gefner's defcription of it is much too imperfefl: to affilt us in afcertaining the bird of which he treats. 'iiM V01-. n. LETTER 66 LETTER 59' LETTER 59' Mr. Wyttenbach's Colledion— Account of the Chain of Hills and Alps feen from the Environs ,oJ Berne. The Reverend Mr. Wyttenbach of Berne, Doffeffes a very curious cabinet, principally re- latin ^^''' */ ' /y>'> ^A> ./^'vy/' WY^A/l . //^^ (^ /I /^/ / V y/u/ y//^ IW. U. J'.dl. ^=:rJtL { f If ! If \ If i f 1 I Fl i u. ? I ^ t i i P/fu' //' //r' f 9w,> ^A> ^^vy/ /^/-v/^ /^/- ^//yv/vv/^/ ^ • ^^'V' y^'r* .#* Chain of Hills and Alps. 67 tare, phyfic, arts, and trades ; and which fuffi- ciently prove the utility of that fcience in the progrefs and improvement of human comfort and knowledge. On this fubjeft he has already publifhed a difiertation in the Ads of the CEco- nomical Societv at Berne. He has not formed this ample colleftion from mere motives of curiofity, or from defultory views, but with a fettled intention to illuftrate the natural hiftory of Switzerland in general; to form a topographical and mineralogical de- fcription of the canton of Berne in particular ; and to elucidate the original formation of moun- tains, which is the favourite objed of his re- fearches, and which his frequent vifits to the Alps will affift him in executing with fidelity and accuracy. At my requed, this indefatigable obferver fa- voured me with a defcription of that range of Alps which is feen from Berne, and of the inter- vening didricl ; an extraft from which 1 now fubmit to your perufal. That part of the chain of Alps feen from Berne, is diftinguifhed by the diflerent names of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Eger, Jungfrauhorn, Lauter-Aar-Horn, Blumlis Alp, &c. Ihis in - menfe amphitheatre, gradually rifes from the environs of Berne, to thofe elevated peaks, co- vered with eternal fnow, and has been hitherto inaccefTible. The plains and hills between Berne and Thun are compofed of rounded (tones, and argillaceous ftones called tnolajfes^ frequently ranged in al- ternate ftrata. The molaffe at Girrten, about two miles from Berne, contains, though rarely, gloffopetrss ; t' 2 and m m i ■' t;*''i M * H 68 L E T T E R 59- and the flrata of Belpberg, about feven or eight miles from the capital, are full of different fpe- cics of chamites, oftracites, globofites, felenites, ftrombites, and other fimilar petrifadions. The ridge of hills which border the high road between Berne and Thun containt, in feveral places, and particularly above Mufmgen, an extenfive ftratom of oftracites, fome pieces of which weigh more than fifteen pounds each. The fituation of the ftrata in thefe different hills, their diredion, their nature, and the bodies which they enclofe, feem to prove, that thefe hills formed antiently one great plain, which has been fmce hollowed and divided by the wa- ters, particularly by thofe of the Aar. On the flopes and fummits of thefe hills, which in fome places are of confiderable eleva- tion, are frequently found thofe large maffes of granite,' which furnifh materials for the public works and buildings of Berne. Thefe maffes fo nearly reiemble the granite of the Grimfel, and of the mountains' which compofe the great cen- tral chain of the Alps, as to render it probable, that in the antient revolutions of this globe, thev have been brought by the waters to the places where they are at prefent found, before the deep vallies, which now feparate them from their original mountains, exifted. The fame remark may be as juftly applied to the blocks of marble and other calcareous ftones, which, though now removed to a confiderable diftance from their native fituation, are alfo difcovered in large quantities upon the hills adjacent to Berne, and which likewife ferve for the build- ings of that capital. As Chain of Hills and Alps. Cg As we approach the town and lake of Thun, the view opens and difcovers, towards the fouth- eafl, that high calcareous chain, of which the Stockhorn, the Neuneren, and the Ganterifli have been illuftrated by the botanical labours of the celebrated Haller. This chain, which joins that of Schwartenburgh towards the can- ton of Friburgh, is chiefly calcareous, and con- tarns fewer petrifactions than the above-men- tioned hills : it is nor of fufficient elevation to be covered with fnow in fummer. The Niefs, which is the laft mountain in this calcareous chain, ftands on the borders of the lake ; and feparates the valley of Frutingen frora that of Simme. It is peculiarly interefting to travellers, on account of the fine view from its lummit ; and to naturalifts, becaufe it joins to the Alps. Towards its foot bees of flate have been difcovered; higher up it is of calcareous Itone: and near its top is found a fpecies of pudding-ftone, filled with fmall fragments of broken petrifadions. In traverfing the lake of Thun, its borders, which are planted with vines, are compofed~of rounded ftones, united by a calcareous cement, as far as the mountains of St. Beat. Ihere, near Rallingen, the rocks are calcareous and rugged, containing, in a few places, broken petrifactions, of which it is often difficult to afcertain the fpecies. On continuing mv route at the foot of the St. Beat, I oblerved the iirft rocks, that are abfolutely perpendicular, and even impending, and which are marked at dif- ferent elevations with furrows, occafioned by the waters of the lake, that, in former periods, was probably feveral hundred feet above its prefent n .1' I 70 LETTER 59' prefeiit level. I remarked the fame furrows rearly at the fame elevations, in the vallies of Lauterbruimen and Halli, which coincidence feems to prove, that the lake of Thun once ex- tended over all thefe parts, covered the whole p^ain of Berne, and reached as high as the Len- genberg, where Gruner feems to have difcovered thefe petrifactions called Pholades. Having traverfed the lake of Thun, I entered the narrow but agreeable valley of Uterfeven and Interlachen, on each fide of which the niount'^.ins approach each other, and form, if I may fo exprefs inyfelf, the vcjlibule of the Alps^ This valley, feparating the lakes of Thun and Brientz, which appear to have been once united, is entirely formed by the (tones which the tor- rents have brought from the Alps. On the right is Abendberg covered with trees and herbage, and ftretching towards a groupe of mountains of confiderab^e extent ; yet little known, though their tops may be feen at Bcinc. The Ballenhoechfi:, Sulek, Schnabclhorn, Schwartzberg, Schwalmern, Schilthorn, Kirch- fluh, Latreyenhrft, and Dreyfpitz, are the moll remarkable mountains in this groupe, which on one fide borders the valley of Lautcrbrunnen, and on the other towers oppofite to the Niefs, at the commencement of the valley of Frutingen. It is united by means of the fefinen Alps with the Dents Rouges, and the great central chain of granitical mountains. The mountains of this groupe (land on a bafe of argillaceous fchiftus, containing a few petrifactions, which is rarely vifible but at certain elevations. Towards Lauterbrunnen, particularly, a fine-grained cal- careous {lone abounds. To Chain of Hills and Alps. 7 1 To return to the valley of Unterfeven. On the left is another groupe of calcareous moun- tains, which extend along the lake of Brientz towards Hafli, and ftand alfo on an argillaceous fchiftus, which is but rarely vifible. And though the granitical chain is at a very fmall diftance, it is, however, fo entirely concealed by thefe fecondary mountains, as to be no where difco. vered, except between Unterfeven and Inter- lachen, where the Junfrau prefents herfelf in all her majefty. From thefe delightful plains I attempted to penetrate towards the granitical chain of Alps, through narrow vallies enclofed between perpen- dicular rocks of an enormous height ; but every where I met with fecondary mountains, which, to a confiderable height, conceal the primitive bed of granite, and render the approach to it extremely dangerous, if not imprafticable. Thus the valley of Lauterbrunnen is bordered by calcareous rocks even to its farther extre- mity. At Sichellauenen the firft mafles of gra- nite appear, forming the bafe of the calcareous rocks, which are of a very great height. As I continued my route towards the chain, which ftretches from the Jungfrau to the Grofshorn and Breithorn, I obferved a rock of fteatite, in which fome veins of lead have been difcovered and worked at Hohalp. Higher up is the true granitical chain, which, however, even there is frequently covered with calcareous peaks. I found the approach to this chain lefs diffi- cult at Wengenalp, the laft of a groupe of cal- careous and fchiftous mountains between Lau- terbrunnen and Grindelwald, which there joins ^ the 72 LETTER 59< the Jungfrau, the fummits whereof appear to be of granite. In the valley of Grindelwald I ob- ferved only the argillaceous fchiftus and calca- reous done : the external parts of the top of the Eger, of the Mettenberg, and of the Wetterhorn, are calcareous, and cover the granite of the cen- tral chain ; and the only pieces of granite are the fragments, which are brought into the valley by the two Glaciers. That chain, which is op- pofite to thefe Glaciers, and borders the northern fide of the valley of Grindelwald, has an argil- laceous bafe, which, in feveral places, particu- larly towards Hafii,' contains cornua ammones : this bafe is alfo covered with calcareous rocks, through which it often penetrates at difierent heights. 1 will now take a nearer view of the primitive chain, and trace the Alps in the fame order as they will appear to an obferver. I fliail confider the Jungfrau as the center, from which I will take my departure on one fide towards the Genimi, and on the other towards the Schreck- horn, Wetterhorn, and Grimfel. The Jungfrau, or Virgin, is one of the higheft and molt beautiful mountains in the canton of Berne. T he granite does not appear till a very confiderable elevation; its foot being in moft parts covered by rocks, which are of calcareous ftone, called by the natives Staldenjluh^ of which an elevated peak is - denominated the Monk. On following thefe rocks to Sichellauinen, about two leagues from Lauterbrunnen, I obferved a red ftratum, that feems to form the fepa^ation between the granite and the calcareous fub- fiance : it is compofed of an argillaceous flate of red colour, fpotted.with brown and green, and of Chain of Hills and Alps, 73 of a fine-grained iron ore fas I was furprized to find) containing anomites. I obferved the fame ftratum at the bottom of the Eger and Wetter- horn, and of feveral mountains towards ilafli ; I remarked it at different heights ; but as all ac- cefs to them has been hitherto found impracci- cable, I cannot attempt to explain a phsenome* non, which merits a nearer inveftigation. The chain of the Jungfrau ftretches to the right by thofe inacceffible peaks called the Gletfcherhorn, Ebenfluh, Mittaghorn, Grod- horn, Breithorn. I am entirely unacquainted with their flrudure, except from the fragments, which I have obferved at their feet, or on the mafles of ice defcending from their tops. Lime- ftone occurs at very confiderable heights ; par- ticularly white marble, and a fine grey marble, which is the matrix of a red hematite fihed with innumerable fmall cryftals of iron of an ociagon figure, and attractable by the magnet. Befides thefe ftones, I noticed on the Glaciers of Breitlauinen and Breithorn, various fpecies of granite, both foliated and in blocks, of iron- ftone, oi faxufii fornacum^ or Jieljlein^ and of ar- gillaceous and micaceous fchiftus. All thefe fragments fufficiently prove, that granite prevails in the higher parts, although it is frequently co* vered with fecondary mountains. To the right is the majeftic Blumlis Alp, which is a fine obje£t from the plains : a large Glacier, mentioned by no author, ftretches at its feet. I firft noticed it from the oppofite heights of Oefchenengrat, and at the fame time obferv 84 LETTER 6i LETTER 61 Vi/it to Michael Schuppach, the Ph^cian of Langenau. Langenau, Sept. 18. Y A OU have heard, perhaps, of Michael Schup. pach, the famous Swifs doaof ; of whofe faga- city in difcovering the feat of diforders, and applvinc fuitable remedies to them, many won- derful ftories are recounted by travellers ; and which, like Virgil's Progrefs of Fame, have m- creafed in the marvellous in proportion as ttiey receded from the fcene of aftion. I am now lodeed in the houfc of this celebrated ^fculapius: it is fituated above the village of Langenau, on the fide of a fteep acclivity; from which circum- dance he is generally ftyled the phyjcian of the mountain. ^^^^ Michael Schuppach. 85 Upon our arrival we found the doflor in his apartment, furrounded by feveral peafants, who were confulting him upon their refpeftive com- plaints; each having brought with him a fmall bottle, containing fome of his water : for, by infpeding the urine, this medical fage pretends to judge of the ftate of the patient. His figure is extremely corpulent ; he has a penetrating eye ; and a good humoured countenance. He is feated oppofite to the perfon who confults him, one moment looks at the water, the next at the patient; and continues examining alternately the one and the other for fome time, occafion- ally whiftling during the intervals. He then opens the ftate of the cafe, acquaints the con- fultant with the nature of his complaints, and has fometimes the good fortune to hit upon the true caufe. In a word, his knack of difcover- ing difordets by urine, has gained fuch implicit faith in his (kill, that we might as well queftion the Pope's infallibility before a zealous catholicr, as the doftor's in the prefence of his patients. He has certainly performed feveral great cures ; and the rumour of them hath brought perfons from all quarters of Europe, who are come hither for his advice. The doftor was formerly a village furgeon, has a flight knowledge of anatomy, and is toler- ably verfed in botany and chemiftry. His ac- quaintance with the theory of phyfic is faid to be inconfiderable : the greateft part of his know- ledge being derived from his ej^tenfive praftice, notwithftanding he never ftirs a quarter of a mile from his own houfe ; for he would not take the trouble of going to Berne, even to attend the king of France. It i\ V' 86 LETTER 6i. Michael Schuppach. 87 1 It IS more than probable, that much of this cxtraordinarv man's fuccefs, is owing to the great faith of his patients ; to the benefit they receive from change of climate ; to the falu- brious air of this place ; and to the amufement arifmg from the conltant fuccehion of different company. But whatever may have been the caufes of his celebrity, it has come to him, as^ all accounts agree, unfought for by himleU. He has certainly many excellent qualities : hu- mane an 1 charitable to the highell degree, he not onlv furnifties the indigent peafants who confult him, with medicines gratis, but gene, rally makes them a prefent in money beiidcs; and he always appropriates a certain portion of his gains to the poor of his parifh. His wife and grand-danghters are dreffed like the peafant women of the countrv ; and he has ihewn hi$ rood fenfe in giving to the latter a plain e(^u^ cation: the eldeft he bellowed in marriage, when fhe was but fifteen, upon one of his af-r fiftants, and with her £.1,300; no inconfider- able portion for this country. He procured 2, match for her fo early, he faid, to prevent her being fpoiled by the young gentlemen telling her that fhe was prerty, and infpinng her with the ambition of marrying above her rank. If domeftic harmony, and the moft perfea fimplicitv of manners, have any pretenfions to pleafe, vou would be highly delighted with this rural family. The wife is a notable aftive wo- man, and fuperlntends the houfliold affairs with remarkable clever nefs : (he afhfts her hulband likewife in preparing his medicines; and, as he talks no other language than the German, fhe ferves ferves occdfionally as an interpreter. And, as a proof of his confidence in her adminiftration of his affairs, fhe afts alfo as his treafurer, and receives all his fees ; which, in the courfe of a year, amount to a confiderable fum: for, al- though he never demands more than the price of his medicines, yet no gentleman confults him without giving an additional gratuity. She has likewife received many prefents from perfons who have reaped benefit by her huf- band's prefcriptions : feveral of thefe confifl of valuable trinkets, with which on days of ceremony fhe decks herfelf to the beft advan- tage, in the fimple drefs of the country. The family lit down to tabic regularly at twelve o'clock : there are always fomc flrangcrs of the party, confifting not only of thofc perfong who are under the doctor's care, but of tra- vellers, like ourfelves, who arc led by niotivcf of mere curiofity. When the weather is fine, and their guefts more numerous than ufual, dinner is ferved in an open fhcd, that overlooks the adjacent country, with a dillant view of the Glaciers beyond the lake of ITiun. Ycflcrdav feme peafants, whom the doftor had invitccf, formed part of our company; after dinner, he gave fome money to thofe that fate near him, and ordered one of his grand-daughters to dif- tribute his bounty to the others. The benevo- lence of the old man, his gaiety and good- humour, the cheerfulnefs ot his family, the gratitude of the poor peafants, the beauty of the profped, and the fincncfs of the weather, formed all together a moft agreeable and delight- ful fcene ; and I do not remember to have ever partaken 88 LETTER 6r. partaken of any meal with a more fenfible and heart-felt fatisfaftion. This Angular man is very often employed m giving advice from eight in the morning till fix in the evening, with no other intermiffion than during the time he is at table. His drugs are of the bed kind ; for he coUeas the fimples, and diftils them himfelf. His houfe, like thofe ot the peafants, is conftruaed of wood; and, though always full of people, is remarkably neat and clean. In (hort, every thing about rhim bears the appearance of the pleafing fimplicity oi former agejj. I Tiad almoft forgotten to tell you, that I con- fulled him this morning ; and have reafon to be highly fatisfied with his prefcription : for, .he told me I was in fuch good health, that the only advice he had to give me, was " to eat and " drink well, to dance, be merry, and take " moderate exercife." . . It is now Langenau fair ; and the village is crowded with the neighbouring peafants. Great numbers of the men have long beards, and many of them cover their heads with a woman's ftraw hat, extremely broad, which makes a very grotefque appearance : their drefs is chiefly a coarfe brown cloth jacket without fleeves ; with large puffed breeches of ticken. The wo- men, who are remarkably handfome, wear their hair plaited behind in treffcs, with the riband hanging down below the waift ; a flat plain ftraw hat, which is very becoming ; a red or brown cloth jacket without fleevqs •, a black or blue petticoat bordered with red, and fcarcely reaching below the knees j red llockings with black Michael Schuppach. 89 black clocks, and no heels to their ftioes ; their (hifts of extremely fine linen, fattened clofe round the throat by a black collar with red ornaments : the better fort have chains of filver between the ftioulders, brought round under each arm, and fattened beneath the bofom, the ends hanging down with fome filver ornaments, I am fo charmed with the fituation of this vil- lage, the cheerfulnefs and fingularity of this ruf- tic and agreeable family, and the uncommon charaaer of the humane doaor, that I could with pleafure continue here fome days longer: but I am preffed for time, and have a long jour^ ney before me. P O S T S C R I P T- This celebrated empiric died in March, 1781; and Langenau, which I again vifited in Auguft, 1785, was no longer the refort of the fick, the valetudinarian, the curious, and the idle. The doaor had gained by his praftice ten thoufand pounds ; of which fum his wife received a third, and the remainder was diftributed among his fon-in-law and grand-children. Langenau is fituated at the commencement of the Emmethal, a valley remarkable for its cultivation and beauty. Many of the farmers are extremely rich : the people appear in ge- neral contented and happy; the wooden cot- tages 9° LETTER 61. taces fcattered about the fields, are uncom- monly neat and comfortable; and announce, in their general appearance, the well-bemg ot the peafantry. Payerne. 9« I, LETTER 62. ." ♦ Payerne — Moudon — Geneva — Calvin. EETTER Geneva, Sept. (?. 1 TOOK leave of my friends at Langenau, m order to proceed to Avignon ; where I am going to pay a vifit to the Abbe (ie Sade, author of the interefting memoirs of the life of Petrarch. Monfieur de Vigur, a fenator of Soleure, of- fered me a place in his carriage to Berne : and, as my principal objeft in travelling is to acquire intelligence, I very gladly embraced this oppor- tunity of leading my worthy and well-informed companion into a converfation, not only con- cerning the government of Soleure in particular, but in relation alfo to Switzerland in general; and I found him exceedingly well-difpofed to anfwer the feveral queftions he allowed me to propofe to him. • The 9« LETTER 62. The next day 1 repaffed through Morat and Avenches, and flept at Payerne, a town in the canton of Berne, which enjoys confiderable pri- vileges. Upon the bridge over the Eroye, is an antient Roman infcription : as I was endeavour^ ing to decypher it, a plain-looking man accofled me in a very folemn tone ot voice, and faid, he had often tried to make out the infcription, but without fuccefs; though he could read very well, and had a fmattering in Latin. " For," added he, " what can be the meaning of N and I and O, and all thofe great letters, which feem to have no connei^ion with each other ? Give me a page of plain ! atin, and I wiU tranllate it from the beginning to the end ; but for thefe Ns, Is and Os ; take my word for it, notwith- ftanding all vour pains,' you will never be the wifer.'* However, as I did not feem difpofed to follow his advice, but continued decyphering the infcription (which was by no means a diffi- cult tjiik) he appeared aftonilhed at my obfti- nacy, and left me, with an apparent air of pity, to my hopelefs fortune. Moudon is an handfome town, the principal burgh of a bailliage of the fame name, and for^ merly the capital of all that part of the Pays de Vaud, which belonged to the duke of Savoy, It was alfo the ordinary refidence of his chief bailif, and the place where the aifembly of the ftates were accuftomed to meet. The bailif ap- pointed by the fovereign council of Berne, re- fides in the caftle of Lucens, built upon the fummit of a mountain, in a fituation exceedingly pidurefque. This caftle forijaerly belonged to the bifliops of Laufanne, ancf was one of their favourite Geneva* 95 favourite feats, before the reformation was in- troduced into this country. Geneva lies upon the narroweft part of the lake, where the Rhone ilTues in two large and rapid ft reams, which foon afterwards unite- That river feparates the town into two unequal divifions; receives the muddy Arve in its courfej and flows through France into the Mediter- ranean. The adjacent country is uncommonly pifturefque ; and abounds in magnificent views : the feveral objeds which compofe this enchant- ing profpeft, are, the town ; the lake ; the numerous hills and mountains, particularly the Saleve and the Mole, - rifing fuddenly from the plain in a variety of fantaftic forms, backed by \jhe Glaciers of Savoy, with their frozen top^ gliftening in the fun ; and the majeftic Mont Blanc rearing its head far above the reft. Geneva, which lies partly in the plain upon the borders of the lake, and partly upon a gentle afcent, is irregularly built ; the houfes are high, and many, which ftand in the trading part of the city, have arcades of wood, which are raifed even to the upper ftories. Tbefe ar- cades, fupported by pillars, give a gloomy ap- pearance to the ftreet; but ar^ ufeful to the inhabitants in protecting them from the fun and rain. Geneva is by far the moft populous town in Switzerland 5 and contains 24,000 fouls. This fuperiority of numbers is undoubtedly ow- ing to the great induftry and activity of the in- habitants ; to its more extenfive commerce ; to the facility of purchafing the burgherfliip ; and to the privileges which government allows to all foreigners. The members of this city are diftin- 94 LETTER 62. Geneva. 95 ;! I m If' diftinguiflied into citizens and burgheffes, inha* bitants and natives *. The citizens and burgh- effes are alone admitted to a fhare in the govern- ment : the inhabitants are llrangers who are al- lowed to fettle in the town with certain privi- leges ; and the natives are the fons of thofe in- habitants, who pofTefs additional advantages. The two laft claiTes form a large majority of the people. The liberal policy of this government, in re- ceiving ftrangers and conferring the burgher- fliip, is the more remarkable as it is contrary to the fpirit and ufage of the Swifs. It is here, indeed, more necefTary ; the territory of this Itate being fo exceedingly fmall, that its very •exiftence depends upon the number and induftry of the people : for, exclufive of the city, there are fcarcely 16,000 fouls in the whole diflrift of the Genevois. The reformed doftrines firft preached at Ge- neva, in 1533, by William Farel, a native of Gap, in Dauphins ; and Peter Viret, of Orbe, owed their final reception and eflablifliment to John Calvin. That reformer was born at Noyon, in 1509, and being driven from France by the perfecutions which Francis the Firft had raifed againft the proteftants, made his firft appearance in this city, in 1536. Notwithftanding Zuingle, CEcolampadius, and Haller, had reformed the greateft part of Swit« ♦ Since the late revolution in 1782, there is a fifth clafs, called domiciiiest who receive from the raagiflrates an annual permifliop to remain in the city. zerland, zerland, fome years before that period ; yet Cal- vin, as Voltaire juftly obferves, has given his name to the feftaries of the reformed religion, in the fame manner as the new continent took its appellation from Americas Vefpufius, al- though the original difcovery was made by Columbus. And although Calvin was not the firft reformer of Geneva ; yet, as he gave ad- ditional ftrength and folidity to the new efta- blifhment, and founded the ecclefiaftical form of government, he totally eclipfed the fame of his friend William Farel, who fcattered the firft feeds of reformation, which the other brought to maturity. In truth, fo great w^as the afcen- dancy which Calvin, although a foreigner, ac- quired over the citizens, that he pofTefl'ed con- fiderable influence even in civil matters; and bore a large fhare in fettling the political con- ftitution. Confcious that religion derives fup- port from every branch of knowledge, he li- berally prom^oted the cultivation of fcience, and the ftudy of elegant literature. To this end, as well as to encourage theological erudition, he prevailed upon government to eflablifh a public academy : but with Angular difmtereft- ednefs declining the propofal of being appointed perpetual prefident, he obtained that office for his friend and fellow-labourer, Theodore Beza. In this new feminary, Calvin, with Theodore Beza, and his other colleagues, eminent for their fuperior knowledge, read leftures with fuch uncommon reputation and fuccefs, as at- traded ftudents from all quarters. There is fuch a ftriking fplendor in the brighter parts of this difmterefted and cele- brated 9^ LETTER 62. brated reformer's charader, as to render us, at firft glance, almofl: infenfible to thofe dark fpots which In fome inftances have obfcured its glory. But when we refleft on his afperity ami arrogance; and, above all, on the cruel perfecution of Servetus ; we cannot but lament that he did not rife fuperior to the intolerant principles of the 'age, which in all other in- ftances he helped to enlighten. With regard, however, to his intolerant principles, it muft be acknowledged, that the fame uncharitable fpirit prevailed alfo among many of the mod celebrated reformers ; who unaccountably con- ceived, in oppofition^ not only to the genius^ but to the cleareft precepts of the gofpel, that perfecution for confcience fake, although un- chriftian in every other ecclcfiaftical eftablifh- ment, was juftifiable in their own. This abfurd and dangerous opinion, gave great ad- vantage to their adverfaries of the papal hier- archy : for, it is obvious to the meaneft underftanding, that, if perfecution is juftifi^ able in any particular church, it muft be io univerfally. The republic of Geneva is^ however, at prefent, the moft tolerating of all the re- formed ftates in Switzerland ; being the only government in this country, \vhich permits the public exercife of the Lutheran religion. In this refpeft the clergy^ no lefs wifely^ than fuitably to the fpirit as well as the letter of the Chriftian revelation, have renounced the principles of their great patriarch, Calvm : although they ttill hold that able reformer in high veneration ; yet they know how to diftirt- ° guith Cefif*uai 97 guifli his virtues from his defefts, and to ad- mire the one without being blindly partial to the other. I am, &c. Vol. II. H I.ETTER 98 LETTER 63. LETTER 63. On the Literature of Geneva. To a man of letters, Geneva is particularly interefting: learning is divefted of pedantry, and philofophv united with a knowledge of the world. The pleafures of fociety are mixed with the purfuits of literature; and elegance and urbanity give a zed to the profoundeft difquili- tions. Nor are letters confined in this city merely to thofe who engage in them as a pro- feflion or to thofe whofe fortune and leifure enable them to follow where genius leads. Even the lower clafs of people are exceedingly well informed; and there is perhaps no city in Europe, where learning is more univerfally dit- fufed. I received great fatisfaaion in converfing even with feveral tradefmen upon the topics both Geneva* 99 both of literature and politics ; and was afto- nifhed to find, in this clafs of men, fo uncom- mon a fhare of knowledge. But the wonder ceafes, when we are told, that all of them were educated at the public academy, where the chil- dren of the citizens arc taught, under the in* fpeftion of the magiftrates, and at the expence of government. One circumftance in this feminary particu- larly contributes to excite the induftry and emulation of the {Indents: prizes are annu- ally diftributed to thofe, who have diftin- guifhed themfelves in each clafs. Thefe re- wards, confiding of fmall medals, are conferred with fuch folemnityj, as cannot fail of producing great effeft. A yearly meeting of all the magif- trates, profefTors, and principal inhabitants, is held at the cathedral, when the firft Syndic him- felf diftributes, in the mod public manner, the honorary retributions. I met this morning one of the fcholars, and, feeing his medal, inquired its meaning ? " Je la ported* replied the boy, fcarcely eight years old, " parce que / at fait " mon devoir'^ I required no dronger proof to convince me of the beneficial influence upon young minds, from thefe encouraging and ju- dicious didinftions, than appeared from this fprightly fpecimen. The citizens enjoy the advantage alfo of hav- ing free accefs to the public library; and by this privilege, they not only retain but improve' that general tinfture of learning which they im- bibe in their early youth. The public library owes its origin to Bonni- yard, prior of St. Viftor, who was twice im- prifoned for having afferted, agai^d the dukes H 2 ' ot loo LETTER 63. of Savoy, the independence of Geneva: and who confidered the hardOiips he had fuffered, and the perils he had efcaped, as ties that en- deared him more ftrongly to a city, which he had adopted as his own. He was a principal promoter of the reformation bv gentle nieans and gradual inftrudion. He clofed his bene. faaions to his beloved city by the gift of his valuable manufcripts and books, and by be- queathing his fortune towards the eftablifhment and fupport of the feminary. His works, which chiefly relate to the hiftory of Geneva, are pre- ferved with that care and reverence, which are due to fo eminent a benefaftor. The library contains 25,000 volumes and many curious manufcripts, of which an accurate and learned catalogue has been lately publiflied by the Reverend Mr. Sennebier the librarian. He has attempted to determine the ages ot the feveral manufcripts ; he defcribes their form and fize, the materials on which they are written, the ornaments, the charaaeriftic phrafes, and mentions the proofs on which he grounds his opinions. He adds alfo the notes, and diftm- auifhes thofe which have never been printed. M. Sennebier has alfo favoured the world with '' Hifloire Literaire de Geneve,'' accompa- nied with^ biographical anecdotes of thofe na- tives, who have been celebrated for their learn- ing As I ftould trefpafs too much upon your time, if I were to attempt fending you an ac- count of the principal men of letters m Geneva, I fhall confine myfelf to thofe only, with whom I am perfonally acquainted. Charles Bonnet was born in 1726. His lite has been devoted to the purfuits of literature, and Geneva. lOI and to the improvement of philofophy and fci- enee. He has proved by his publications, that his indefatigable induftry in fearching into the pha^aomena of the creation, is equalled only by his ingenuity in explaining them. His works, printed at Neuchatel, form nine volumes in quarto, or eighteen in odavo, and contain di- vers fubjeSs of natural hiftory, many accurate obfervations on infefts, on the vegetation of plant3, on the ufe of leaves in plants, confider^ ations on organized bodies, and the contempla- tions of nature. By feveral treatifes, and particularly his Ana* lytical Effay on the Facukies of the Soul, he has (hewn himl'elf an acute metaphyfician. Like his friend Haller, he has alfo Hood forth an able advocate for the great principles of natural and revealed religion. His * Philofophical Re- fearchea on Ghriftianity, and his treatife on the Exiftenee of God, prove, that an intimate knowledge of nature neceffarily tends to efla*. blifh a rational belief of thofe great truths. I had frequent oppoftunities of converfmg with this refpc(ftab).e philofopher : though now in the fixty-fixth year of his age, he poffeffes an uncommon degree of vivacity and animation, ftill retains his enthufiafm for the purfuits of fcience, and fpeaks with the fame perfpicuity and elegance as are obfervable in his writings. • A tranllatioa of his Rechercbes Phihfiphtques fur ks Preuves du Chri/fiamfme, has been lately givea to the public, by John Lewis BoiiTicr, Efq. under the title of " Philofo- phical Hi)4 Criticai Inquiries concerning Chriftianity." I was 101 LETTER 63. I was no lefs ambitious of being known tq his nephew M. de SauflTure. Born in 1740; ^^ was elefted profeffor of philofophy in 1762 \ and has given to the public the following fpecimens of his indefatigable induftry, and of the verfa- tility of his talents: various remarks and ex- periments on microfcopic animals ; obfervations on electricity; on bafaltic lavas and volcanic produaions ; on the phyfical geography of Italy. He has invented an inftrument for mea- furing the degrees of magnetic force; and fo much improved the cledrometer of Cavallo, that it may be almoft confidered as a new in- ftrument. ' But above all, his invention of the hair-hvgrometer, or an inftrument for meafur- ing the moifture of the atmofphere, has enabled him to make many theoretical and experimental refearches that are detailed in his Effai fur PHy- ^cmetre. And although a controverfy is now fubfifting between him ai>d M. de Luc, con- cerning the propriety of hair as an inftrument for this purpofe ; yet it cannot depreciate this invention; and new lights muft be thrown on that fubjeft by the oppofition of two fuch able hataralifts. His Voyages dans ks AIpcs, of which two vo- lumes in quarto have already made their ap- pearance, treat of the phyfical geography of the Alps, the formation of mountahis, the origin of the Glaciers, and various phaenomena of nature, which peculiarly diftinguifti Switzerland. Un- like fome philoibphers'of the prefent age, who from their cabinet, and with no other knowledge of the earth than -what is acquired by books, peremptorily and prefumptuoully decitie on the . - theory Geneva. 1 03 m theory of the globe, this indefatigable obferver draws from repeated travels, and inceffant expe- rience, a fund of fafts, w^hich may enable him to complete the great defign and objeft of all his refearches, that of eftablifliing a more per- feft theory of the earth. The cabinet of M. de Sauffure is an obje£l worthy of the traveller's curiofity. It contains a colleftion of foreign and Swifs butterflies .; va- rious petrifaftions and foflils, more particularly a large variety of bafalts and volcanic produc- tions ; numerous fpecimens of granites and other primitive ftones ; which he has coUeded during his various expeditions, and from parts which have been only vifited by himfelf. M- de Sauffure has lately refigned the profef- forfliip of eKperimental philofophy, and is fuc- ceeded by my very worthy and ingenious friend Mr. Piftet Turretini, who has already diftin- guiflied himfelf by various pubHcations, which elucidate feveral in>portant branches of experi- mental philofophy. Paul Henry Mallet, born at Geneva in 1730, . paffed the earlier part of his life at Copenhagen as preceptor to the prefent king, Chriftian the Sixth. His introduftion to the hiftory of Den- mark, under the title of Northern Antiquities, proves him a profound and accurate antic^arian-, and his hiftories of Heffe, Brunfwic, arid Den- mark, (hew him no lefs eminent as an hiftorian. I (hould on this occafion be unmindful of the honour conferred on me, if I omitted to men- tion, that his lajteft work is a tranflation of my Travels into Poland, Ruffia, Sweden, and Den- mark^ to which he has added many remarks, and a Journey into Norway. ^^1 M. dfi ♦ ,04 LETTER 63. M. dc Luc, reader to the Queen of Great Britain, and lefident in England, is alfo a na^ five of Geneva. He was born in 1727, and published, in 1772, his celebrated work on the modification of the atmofphere, and on the the- ory of barometers and thermometers : a perfor- mance which marks a diftinguiflied aera in the hiftory of experimental philofophy, and which we are happy to find he is ftill carrying on uHider the title of Idea fur la Meteor ologie. But in his hemes Phiftques et Morales^ Jur I'HiJioire^ (h la Terre et de I'Homme^ M. de Lue appears tQ fiftf< gular adyantage. Jn this extraordinary perfopifc* ance, he has difplayed a moft ^xtenfive 1mv)V- ledge of nature, and has applied it with great fagacity in forming a new theory of the earth, and in a happy accommodation of hi$ hypothefia to the Mofaic account of th^ creation, The cabinet of M. de Luc is not only remarki' able for the number and rarity of many fpeti- inens ; but more particularly claims the atten- tion of the naturaliii, as it is a (yftematic coUec^ tion, tending to illuftrate his theory of the globe. With this view it may be divided into ^hr^f j^in- cipal parts. The firft part containi petrifoftiona and foflils ; the fecond, the CQlle^iou of ftonea ; and thi^ third,j lavas and volc^aic produQiious. The firft part is arranged in fucb ^ manner, under three diftind beads, fia may enable the naturalift, 1. to compare thq petrifa<3:ipns of aai- mals and vegetables with tb« lame bodies, which are ftill knoy^n to exift in pup parts of the globe; 2. to compare thofe petrifadions of animals and vegetables with the fame bodies which ar« known to exift in diftant countries ; 3. to confidcr ^he petrifa<:tions Geneva. 105 petrifaftions of thofe bodies which are no longer known to exift. The fecond part comprehends the ftones un- der three points of view ; i. thofe of the primi- tive mountains, which contain no animal bodies; 2. thofe of the fecondary mountains, which con- tain only marine bodies ; 3. thofe which contain terreftial bodies. In the third part, the lavas and other volcanic produ(3:ion5 are diftinguifhed into, i. thofe from volcanos now in a burning ft ate ; 2. thofe from extinft volcanosr I am, &c. ^. LETTER loS LETTER 64. Geneva. loy 1 *1 : ; 4: ' '' LETTER 64.- Government of Geneva in 1776, 1 H E city of Geneva and its territory were formerly united to the German empire, under the fucceiTors of Charlemagne : but as the power of the emperors, feeble even in Germany, was ftiU weaker in the frontier provinces, the biftiops of Geneva, like feveral other great vaffals of the empire, gradually acquired very confiderable authority over the city and its domains ; which the emperor had no other means of counterba- lancing, than by encreafing the liberties of the people. During thefe times of confufion, conr ftant difputes fubfifted between the biftiops an4 the counts of the Genevois ; for the latter, al- though at their firft inftitution merely officers of the emperor, and confidered as vaffals of the biftiops ; yet claimed and afferted a right to the exclufive adminifl:ration of juft:ice. The citizens took advantage of thefe quarrels ; an^ by fiding occafionally with each party, obtaiiffeu an exten- , fioa of their privileges from both. But the Houfe of Savoy having purchafed the Genevois, and fucceeded to all the prerogatives of the counts, with additional power 5 the biftiops and and the people firmly united, in order to oppofe encroachments, which were no lefs prejudicial to the authority of the one, than to the liberties of the others. During this period, the refpeftive pretenfions of the counts, biftiops, and citizens, were fo various, as to form a government equally . fmgular and complicated. 1 he harmony, how- ever, between the biftiops and citizens, was at length broken by the artful management of the counts of Savoy, who had the addrefs to pro- cure the epifcopal fee for their brothers, and even for their illegitimate children. By thefe methods, their power in the city became fo en- larged, that, towards the commencement of the fixteenth century, Charles the Third, duke of Savoy, (although the form of go- vernment was entirely republic) obtained" an almofl: abfolute authority over the citizens; and exercifed it in the moft- unjufl: and arbitrary manner. Hence arofe perpetual fl:ruggles be- tween the duke and the citizens ; the latter con- tinually oppofmg, either by open violence, or fecret meafures, his tyrannical ufurpation: thus two parties were formed ; the zealots for liberty were called eidgenojfen^ or confederates; while the partizan$ of the duke were branded with the appellation of maffimelucsy or flaves. The treaty of alliance, which the town con- traded with Berne and Friburgh, in 1526, may be confideftfed as the true a^ra of its liberty and independence : for, not long after, the duke was deprivii of his authority ; the bifliop driven . from the city; a republican form of govern-^ meat eftablifticd ; and the reformation intro- dulfed. From this time, Charles and his fuc- ceflbrs waged inceffant war againft the town : ' , but i 1^8 L E T T E R 64. bi:it his hoailitics were rendered inefFeaual, by tbt3 intrepid bravery of the citizens, and the affiftanee of B€i:i;>e. In isHy Geoeva concluded a treaty ot perpe- tual alliance \wh Zuric and Berne, by which it is allied with the Swifs cantons. ^ I'he laft attempt of the Houfe of Savoy a^ainli Geneva, was in i6ca; when Charles tmanuel treacherouily attacked the town diiring a profound peace. Two hundred foldiers fcaled the walk iu the night, while the inhabitants were repofed in unfufpeding fecurity ; but being timely difcovered, were repulfed by the deipe- rate valour of a few citizens, who glorioufly fa, criftced their lives in defence of the liberties of their country. As a tribute of public gratitude for their glorious refiftance, thefe brave Gene- vans were buried with great pomp, and their n»me8 ai^e recorded on a fepulchral ftone. In memory of this event, fome of the fcahng- ladders, by >^hich the enemy entered the town, are preferved in the arfenal ; and alfo the pe- tard, wWch was faflened to one of the gates, when the gunner was killed before it could be difcharged. The war occafioned by this perfidy waa concluded in the following year by a folemn treaty: fince that period, uninterrupted peace has been maintained between the houie of Savoy and Gaieva ; although the king of Sar- dinia did not formally acknowledge,^ till 1754, the independence of the republic. % ^ No fooner was peace concluded with the Houfe of Savoy, than the flames of internal ^difcord, fo apt to kindle in popular govern- ments, and which had been fmothered by tbeir common danger from a foreign enemy, began to G$ne*oa* 10^ to appear. During the greateft part of the lafl century, to the prefent period, the hiflory of Geneva contains Uttle more than a narrative of contentions between the ariftocratical and the popular parties. Thefe mutual ftruggles have been occafionally exerted with fo much violence and animofity, as to threaten, for a moment, a total revolution in the ftate ; but, happily, they have been hitherto compromifed without producing any fatal effefts *. About the beginning of the prefent century, the power of the Great Council was become almoft abfolutc. In order to reftrain its autho- rity, the popular party, in 1707, procured an edia, that every five years a general council of the citizens and burghers fhould be fummoned, to deliberate upon the affairs of the republic. Agreeably to this law, a general affembly was convened in 171 2; and the very firft aft ex- erted by the people in this their coUeftive capa- city, was the abolition of the above-mentioned edift. An event of fo fingular a nature, can hardly be accounted for upon the general principle of popular ficklenefs and inconfiftency : accord- ingly Rouffeau, in his Letters ecrites de la Mon- tagne^ imputes it to the artifices of the magif- trates ; and to the equivocal terms marked upon the billets then in ufe. For, the queftion pfo- pofed to the people being, " Whether the opi- nion of the councils, for aboliftiing the pe- riodical general affemblies, fhould pafs into a " law ?" the words employed on the billets de- * The reader will recolIe<5l that this letter was written in 1776, before the late Revolution of lySl, which is related in the fubfequent letter. rj! livered u (C f ^f0r^ » * 116 L £ t T E R 64^ i 1 •; livered for that purpofe, were, approbattorii hr ieaion ; fo that whicheyer fide was taken, it came to the fame point. If the billet of appro- bation were chofen, the opinion of the councils which reieaed the periodical affembly, was ap- proved ; if that of rejeaion^ then the periodical affembly was rejeded of eourfe. Accordingly, feveral of the citizens afterwards complained that they had been deceived, as they never meant to rejea the general affembly, but only the opinion of the councils *. In confequence of this extraordinary repeal, the power of the ariftocracy continued increafing till within thefe few years j when the citizens, by a fmgular conjunaion of favourable circum- ftances, joined to an uncommon fpint of union and perfeverance, have procured feveral changes in the conftitution of Geneva ; by which the authority of the magiftrates has been limited, and the rights of the people enlarged. Happy . if they know where to ftop; left, contmumg to extend the bounds of their own privileges, -they ftiake the foundations of civil government, by too much reftraining the power of the ma- jriftraies. ,. ^ ' 1 The prefent conftitution of Geneva, may be confidered as a mean between that of the arifto- cratical and popular cantons : more democrati- cal than any of the former, inafmuch as the lo- verei<'n and legiflative authority entirely refides in th"e general affembly of the citizens; and more ariftocratical than the latter, becaufe the powers vefted in the Great and Little Councils are verv confiderable. • Mifcellaneous Works of Rouffeau, Vol. iv. p. 279. r The Cerieva* tit The members of the Senate, or Little Council of twenty-five, enjoy, in their corporate capa- city, feveral prerogatives almoft as great a< thofc which are poffeffed by that of the moll atiftocra- tical ftates. They nominate half the members of the Great Council ; fupply the principal ma- giftrates from their own body; convoke the Great Council and the General Council ; they previoufly deliberate upon every queftion which is to be brought before thefe councils : in other words, in them is lodged the power of propof- ing ; confequently, as every act muft originate from them, no law can pafs without their appro- bation. In this fenate is vefted alfo the chief executive power; the adminiftration of the fi- nances ; and, to a certain degree, jurifdiftion in civil and criminal caufes. They nominate, likewife, to moft of the fmaller pofts of govern- ment ; and enjoy the fole privilege of conferring the burgherftiip. They compofe, moreover, in conjunftion with thirty-five members of their own choofing, the Secret Council ; which nev^r aftembles but by their convoking, and only upon extraordinary occafions. Thefe confiderable prerogatives, however, are counterbalanced as well by the privileges of the Great Council, as by the franchifes of the Gene- ral Council. The privileges of the former con- fift in choofing the members of the fenate from their own body ; in receiving appeals in all caufes above a certain value ; in pardoning cri- minals ; in difpofing of the moft important charges of government, thofe excepted which are conferred by the General Council ; and in approving or rejefting whatever is propofed by the Senate to be laid before the people. The / ,14 L E T T E R 64. The Oenwal Council, or affembly of the people, is compofed of the citizens and burghers of the town : their number, in general, amounu to about 1,500, but feldom more than i,4oo nieet at the fame time ; the remamder bemg either fettled in foreign countries, or ufually ab* fent. I ought to have explained to you fooner, the diftinOion between citizens and burghers : the latter, are either the fons of citizens or burghers % born out of Geneva, or have ob- tained the burgherihip by purchafe ; the forma:, are the foos of citizens or burghers, born within the town of Geneva. The burners may be chofen into the council of two hundred, but the citizens alone can enter mto the Senate, aad poffefs the charges approFiated to that body. The General Council meets twice a year; cboofes the principal magiftrates ; affenU to. or reieas, the laws and regulations propofed by the < ouncils ; impofes taxes ; contrads alli«ices ; ermitted the others to retire without moleftation. They then conti- nued under arms, and occupied the principal avenues of the city. The next morning the committee of the Re- prefentants being fummoned by the natives to fulfil their promifes of granting additional privi- leges, and particularly of gratuitoufly conferring the burgherfhip, held feveral meetings with the principal Negatives on that fubjeft, but without fuccefs : for the latter, while they readily con- fented to the requeft of the natives refpeding the augmentation of their commercial privileges, pofitively refiifed to facilitate the acquifition of the burgherfhip. Notwithftanding this refufal, the committee, cmbarraffed and alarmed at the number and threats of the natives, determined to abide by their promifes, drew up an edifl, which per- mitted the natives to carry on trade ; to hold the rank of officers in the military aflbciations ; and conferred the burgherfhip on more than a hundred perfons, taken from the natives and inhabitants, and even from the peafants of the * It is but iuftice to the Negatives to add, that, according to the opinion of fome, this firft infurrc<5lioxi was coocerted, and the Keprefentants fired £rit. territory. 1)6 LETTER 65. H territory. This ediQ. was laid before and ap- proved by the three Councils ; the Negatives abfenting themfelves on this occafion from their apprehenfions of the popular party, who had made themfelves mailers of the city. By this mcafure the Reprefentants efleemed themfelves fecure of having inviolably attached the natives to their intereft ; and concluded that nothing more remained than to enjoy the fruits of their victory. Affairs, however, turned out other- wife ; deputies being difpatched from Zuric and Berne in order to mediate between the rival parties, prevailed on the Reprefentants to lay down their arms ; and before their departure declared the edift in favour of the natives, to be null and illegal. And when the queftion for executing that edift was laid before the Senate, it was repeatedly carried in the negative, under the juft pretence, that the mediating powers had declared it to be illegal ; that while the city was in the power of the Reprefentants, who were under arms, none of the members could venture to oppofe it; and that therefore their affent, which had been extorted by fear, was abfolutely null. 7 Inflamed by this refufal, the oppofite party tendered, on the 18th of March, 1782, ano- ther reprefentation, in which they again fum- maned the magiftrates to confirm the edict. The anfwer, expeded with the moft extreme impatience, was at length returned on Sunday, the 17th of April, and concluded with faying, " Government is neither willing nor able to ratify the edift." Although the committee endeavoured, firft to conceal, and when that was impoflible, to foften and Revolution of Geneva- 1 27 and palliate its contents, yet the generality of the natives, who found themfelves excluded from the favourite objeft of their wifhes, at the moment when they feemed moft fecure of ob- taining it, crouded tumultuoufly in different parts of the city ; repeating, one after the ether, in a kind of frenzy, " Government is neither able nor willing to ratify the edift.'* K^ thefe cries of defpair were followed by the moft vio- lent menaces ; the popular chiefs, after feveral vain attempts to reftrain the rifing commotions, acquainted the magiftrates with the general in- dignation; and endeavoured, though without fuccefs, to perfuade them to recal or mollify their fatal anfwer. Mean while, night ap- proached, ever favourable to tumults and in- furreftions, and brought on the crifis which ru- ined the republic. Some of the loweft populace having fet fire to a wooden barrack, cried out, " to arms;*' on which fignal the natives affembled in a tumultu- , ous manner, and were joined by the moft violent Reprefentants. The moft moderate among the citizens, well convinced, that the fire was only a pretext, and that fuch an ill-timed infurreftion would greatly prejudice their caufe, difperfed themfelves in various quarters of the town, and tried to prevail on the mob to retire ; but with- out effeft. Many were wantonly infulted ; and a party, in attempting to fecure one of the gates, having fired on the garrifon who refifted, it be- came abfolutely neceffary for the citizens either to abandon the natives, or to join them in the infurreftion. Having haftily adopted the latter meafure, the officers of the popular-party made their appearance, took poffcffion of the town, and laS LETTER 6$. and appeafed the tumult. At length, iafter xz^ nous unfuccefsful negotiations to prevail on the Negatives to ratify the editt, the popular party arrefted and confined a few of the magiftrates and the principal Negatives ; and the chiefs of the Reprefentants, apprehenfive that an im- mediate appeal to France would be the firll confequence of their liberty, detained them in prifon as hoftages for their farther fecurity. As this arrefl and imprifonment of the prin- cipal magiftrates appeared a m^afure as daring and atrocious as contradictory to found policy ; it may be proper to confider on what principles the Reprefentants aCled, and by what arguments they defended their conduft. For this purpofe it will be neceffary to view the political fituation of Geneva in the moment of this infurreftion, with refpeft to the neighbouring ftates, and par- ticularly in relation to France, of whofe affiil:. ance the ariftocratical party was fecure, as foon as that power could interfere with effeft and propriety. The ad by which France, Zuric, and Berne guarantied the conftitution of Geneva, as new* modelled in 1768, was no longer in force; a circumdance highly unfavourable to the popular party. For, as by this aft, the king of France could not publicly interfere in the affairs of Ge- neva, except in concert with Zuric and Berne, he had only one voice ; and confequently could not effeftuate any change in the government, provided thofe two cantons were united againil him. Thefe Ihackles being highly difplcafmg both to the court of Verfailles, and to the Ne- gatives, who were protefted by that court, the count of Vergennes, by a letter written on the aSth Revolutien of Geneva. i2§ 2 8th of September, 1781, declared to the can^ tons of Zuric and Berne, that Louis the Six^ teenth renounced the guarantee, becaufe they had refufed to enter into views for the purpofe of reftoring peace to Geneva ; and in a difpatch to the Senate, bearing the fame date, and to the fame effeft, he added; that the king, in re- nouncing the guarantee, did not withhold his proteftion from the commonwealth; but ftill referved to himfelf the power of punifliing the difturbers of public tranquillity, and of fup. porting the conftitution. The greateft number of the reprefentants weakly rejoiced at this mea- fure, from an idle perfuafion, that the minifter, fatigued with their trifling difputes, and def- pairing to overcome the perfeverance of the citi- zens, abandoned them to thcmfelves ; and, thus in the very aft which inevitably prepared fub^ jeftion, imagined that they faw the firft gleam of abfolute independence. Soon after this renunciation, M. de Vergennes ordered a regiment to march into the land of Gex, which borders on the territory of Geneva; and the troops were ftill quartered on the fron-^ tiers, when the refufal of the Senate to confirm the ediftj gave rife to the infurreftion. In this fituation, the popular leaders argued, that for a long time a pretext had been wanted to appeal to Verfailles; and it was now found: they dreaded every moment to fee the French troops at the gates of the town ; they thought it, therefore^ moft advifeable to arreft and confine the magif^ trates, in order to intimidate them from calling m the fuccours of France, and to render thenl refponfible for the public fecurity. Vol. IL K Won # I 130 LETTER 65. Won over by thefe fpecious arguments, the body of citizens continued to aft as if their power was likely to be permanent. They de- pofed feveral members of the Great and Little Councils, and appointed in their place an equal number of perfons who were favourable to the caufe of the Reprefcntants. The Great Council, thus new-modelled, executed the edift for con- ferring the burgherftiip on the ftipulated number of natives ; and appointed a committee of fafety, compofed of eleven members, with very confi- derable authority. This committee entirely re- cftabliflied public tranquillity ; ordered the forti- fications of the town to be repaired ; and in- fpired the people with the mod dangerous confi- dence in their own ftrength. Zuric and Berne, on the firft news of the late infurreftion, interdifted their fubjefts from all inter courfe with a government founded on ufurp- ation and violence ; and ftrenuoufly advifed the Syndics to exhort the citizens to an immediate reftoration of the legal conftitution: a moment's delay, they urged, would be inevitable ruin. A few days afterwards, the French minifter re- turned, unopened, the difpatches of the new Se- nate ; and reminded the citizens of the king's folemn engagement to fupport the oppreffed, and to proteft the antient form of government. The citizens of Geneva, though thus deferted by their allies, were deaf to all admonitions, idly appealed to the juftice of their caufe ; and difclaimed all overtures of accommodation, ex- cept on their own terms. '' During two months the citizens and natives, apparently fecure within their ramparts, con- vinced, either that France durft not venture to attack %'' Revolution of Geneva* i -? i attack them, or that the prifoners would be the immediate viftims of fuch an attempt, and that they fhould be able to make a long and glorious refiftance, would not even liften to any propofal of re-eftablifhiag the depofed magiftrates ; and could not be prevailed upon to facrifice a part of their privileges, and particularly the right of re- eleftion, for the fecurity of the remainder. At length, the ftorm gathering from all quar- ters, flowly approached, and hovered over the town. The king of Sardinia and the canton of Berne, both feconding the views of France, dif- patched troops againft Geneva; and their ref- peftive generals, Meffrs. de la Marmora and Lentulus, were ordered to aft in concert with the French commander M. de Jaucourt, who had advanced to the frontiers at the head of a confiderable detachment. Nothing occafioned more furprize and indig-i nation than the junftion of Sardinia and Berne with the King of France ; and yet no meafure was more confonant to the views of thofe two powers. The Sardinian monarch was interefted in the prefervation of a town, which is the chief fource of induftry and wealth to his fubjefts of Savoy; and whofe inteftine troubles had already caufed a diminution of his revenue: and as he could not in common policy permit the French to in^ creafe their influence in thefe parts, and to quell, without his interference, the commotions of Geneva, he voluntarily tendered his affiftance towards the accomplifhment of fo beneficial a purpofe. ^ The Canton of Berne, defirous to prevent the interpofition of foreign powers in the affairs of ^ ^ Switzerland, \ I3l L E T T E R 65- Switzerland, ufed, in a letter to the Syndics, the following exhortations. ** Redouble your * efforts with your fellow-citizens ; and exert * yourfelves in order to compofe the unhappy * differences, which muft infallibly terminate in * the deftruftion of the republic. A fpeedy * re-eftablifhment of the legal government will * reftore to them their faithful allies, who are * anxious to employ their good offices in behalf ' of the ftate." But when thefe well-timed admonitions proved ineffectual, and the perfe- verance of the citizens had drawn upon them the refentment of France and Sardinia ; Berne could not tamely behold two fuch powers thus interfering in a crifis fo important to her own particular welfare, and to the general interefls of the Helvetic union ; and as Zuric had pru- dently declined to take an aftive part againft her antient ally, flood forth with that firmnefs and decifion which charafterize all her councils j and joined her forces to the confederate armies of France and Sardinia. Notwithftanding this powerful combination, and even in the midft of thefe threatening ap- pearances, the Genevans continued to repair the ramparts with indefatigable ardour. The pea- fants of the territory flocked of their own ac- cord, and without pay, to mount guard, and to work at the fortifications ; women, of all ranks, crowded to the ramparts, as to a place of public amufement; encouraging and animating the men to perfevere in their labour; and fome even fnaring in their fatigue affifled in tranfport- ing burdens, or in planting cannon on the baf- tions. In the midft of this almoft univerfal con- fidence, a few prudent perfons, who forefaw the impoffibility Revolution of Geneva. ixx impoffibility of refiftance, fighed in fecret ; but were obliged to difguife their real fentiments, and could not venture in public but with an air of hope, ferenity, and fortitude. Mean while the beficgcrs advancing on all fides,^ the three commanders held frequent con, fultations, and formed a general plan of attack. At length, on the 29th of June, 1782, M. de Jaucourt difpatched a meffage to the Syndics; in which, after expatiating on the difinterefted intentions of the king his mafter, and proteftjng that he refpefted the independence of the repub. lie, and was only defirous of introducing good order, he added, that if they would not admit his troops, and accept the following prdiirina^ ries of peace, he muft force his way into rhc town. Among other conditions, he exacted that no perfon fhould apj>ear in the ftrects, un! der pain of military puniftment ; that a certain number of citizens, among whom were all the chiefs of the Keprefentanw^ fliould in t\i'cnty. four hours retire from Geneva; that all arm? fhould be delivered to the three generals ; that the depofed magiftrates ftiould be inftantly re- eitablifhed; and that a final anfwer fliould be returned in two hours. The generals Lentulus and de la Marmora refpeaivcly infiftcd on the fame conditions. ^ It is impoffible to exprcls the rage, indigna- tion, and defpair, which thde humiliating con. ditions excited at Geneva. Without the Icaft deliberation every perfon refolvcd to perifh ra- ther than accept them ; and the moment of dan- ger had no other effeft than to animate and roufe the courage of the befiegcd. While they hurried to the ramparts, and were preparing for refiftancc^ I m ?34 LETTER 65. refiftance, the Syndics fecretly obtained from the three generals a delay of twenty-four hours. In this interval not only the men of all ages pre- pared for defence ; but even women and chil- dren tore the pavement from the ftreets, and carried the (tones to the tops of the houfes, in order to roll them down upon the enemy, in cafe they fhould force their way into the town. Such was the general ardour; that about eighty women and girls, drefled in uniforms, oti'ered to form themfelves into a company, for the purpofe of defending their country. The committee of fafety accepted their fervices, and placed them in a barrack, which by its fituation was covered from the cannon of the befiegers, Thefe amazons, with a fpirit above their fex, refufed a ftation that was not fufficiently expofed; and, as the town foon afterwards furrendered, they had no opportunity of proving their patri- otifm by a difplay of their valour. All thefe various figns of the moft determined refolution, flowing unanimoufly from every rank, age, and fex, alarmed the Negatives, who ne- ver had fufpefted, that the people would carry matters to fuch defperate extremities. Accord- ingly, their partizans conferred with the moft moderate among the Reprefentants, in order to find fome means of reconciliation ; but without fuccefs. At length the fatal hour arrived, in which the anfwer was to be returned : it was to expire at ten on Sunday morning ; and at the firft beat of the drum the ramparts were covered with de- fenders. Although the moft zealous had only calculated on 3000, above 5C00 made their ap- pearance. They feemed to be all animated with one Revolution of Geneva* 1^5 one and the fame fpirit; and reminded each other of thofe brave citizens of Geneva, who by facrificing their lives had repulfed, in 1602, the troops of Savoy, when the latter had treach- eroufly fcaled the walls during a profound peace. No one ventured even to hint at furrendering ; and all awaited the attack with the moft deter- mined intrepidity. In this crifis, the French general, at the interceflion of the Negatives,* alarmed for the fate of the prifoners, again pro- longed the period prefcribed for the capitula^ tion. The firft efFed of thefe repeated delays was gradually to abate the enthufiafm of the w^omen: they could not but feel that they were wives and mothers ; and began to figure to themfelves all the horrors of a town taken by affault, and a prey to a licentious and enraged foldiery. In the next place, timid and prudent perfons could venture to conceal their fears under various pre- tences ; and at length the committee of fafety, hitherto ftrenuous in enforcing the neceffity of refiftance, fuddenly changed their refolution, but artfully difguifed their fentiments from the public, until it was too late to prevent the fur- render. , . In the prefent ferment of paflions and preju- dices, if the leaders had openly propofed a fur- render, they would have been confidered as trai- tors; they would only have endangered their own perfons, and accelerated thofe calamities which they wiflied to avoid. For the purpofe, therefore, of gradually bringing matters to the iffue which they intended, they aflembled the citizens in the refpeftive circles ; and after warmly extolling thei;- general zeal and patriot- ifm. I 136 L E T^ T E R 65, ifm, reprefented, that if the city fhould be at- tacked in the night, it would be no longer pof- fible to convene them. For this reafon they hinted, that it would be highly advantageous to the common caufe, if each circle (hould nomi- nate feveral deputies, with full authority to de- cide in their ftead ; adding, that they ought ra- ther to appoint thofe perfons, who, from their age and refpeftable charader, could afTift their country by advice, while others were defending it by their valour, ^ This council, compofed of about a hundred citizens, met at fix in the evening, on the firft of July ; and a few hours before the lafl term appointed for the furrender was about to expire. The chiefs opened the debate with long fpeeches, in order, to prepare the minds of the aifembly for the objeft which they had in view. After haying reprefented the ftate of the fortifications, which were judged by the mod intelligent engi- neers to be only fufficient for refifting an attack by itorm, and not for maintaining a fiege of more than three or four days ; they at length ventured to lay before them the neceflity of an immediate furrender. On the bare mention of that word, the moll violent of the aflembly in- flantly burft into reproaches, and accufed the committee with an intention of betraying the republic. They declared, that they would in- ftantly an-nounce to their fellow citizens the treachery of their deputies : who were not ap- pointed to deliberate upon a furrender, but only upon the means of moft effedlual refiftance. Apprehending the ill confequences of fuch a proceeding, one of the chiefs flarted from his feat, and barred the doors ] while fome of thofe Revolution of Genevam j^j thofe who wiflied to retire, drew their fwords, and fhedding tears of defpair, " To remain,'' they cried out, " a moment, was to fhare the treafon, and to deftroy their country." Every method was attempted to appeafe them : cries and exhortations were heard from all quarters. At length, when the queftion concerning the furrender was propofed, a confiderable majority voted for defending the city to the lafl: extre- mity. On this determination, many of the mofl: zealous, trufting to this decided majority, re- tired from the aifembly, in order to prepare themfelves for the hour of danger. Another confultation was then propofed by thofe who remained ; the danger of dividing into parties, and of alienating the citizens from their leaders, was reprefented in the flirongefl: colours. Thefe fuggeftions being attended with efFeft ; long debates recommenced. One of the youno-efl: in the aflembly, being afiefted with the pathetic confideration of the diftrefs of thofe widows and orphans, whofe hufl^ands and fathers fliould fall by the hand of the enemy, was of opinion, that only thofe who were unmarried, and who had no children, fliould be permitted to defend the ramparts. " We are not fufiicient," he added, " to preferve the town from being taken ; but enough to fave our honour, and to obtain a lefs humiliating capitulation.*' He was interrupted by an elderly citizen, who claimed for fathers of families the glory of fighting for their coun- try. " I have fix fons,'* exclaimed he, with tears of exultation fparkling in his eyes, " and who fliall prevent me from marching at their head to the ramparts ?'* It * (,1 'i 138 LETTER 65. It was then propofed to conduft the hoflages in the face of the French batteries, as a means of intimidating M. de Jaucourt from firing againfl the ramparts ; for it was to be prefumed^ that he would not expofe to certain deftruftion thole magiftrates whom he came to dehver. This opinion, which for a fhort time feemed likely to prevail, gave place to the more gene- rous refolution of reftoring the prifoners to li- berty ; of permitting the Negatives to retire to the enemy's camp ; and then of preparing for a vigorous refiftance. It was urged, fuch a noble mode of proceeding, in fo alarming a moment, would probably foften the refentment of the arillocratical party ; and induce them to obtain from the French general more favourable terms of accommodation. Many hours were confumed in difcufling thefe various opinions. The fatal period approached : it was midnight ; and the chiefs, who had now contrived to flrike the greateft number with a panic, won over the affembly to their fenti- ments, by propofing a general emigration ; and confoled them, in the midfl of their defpair, with the hopes of enjoying that liberty in ano- ther country, which they could no longer expect to find in their own. A declaration being then drawn up, to be de- li\'>ered to the Syndics at the fame time with the keys of the city; the hoflages were inflantly conduced to their refpeftive houfes ; the chiefs fummoned the principal officers from their pofts ; ordered the cannon of feveral batteries to be rendered unfit for fervice ; and at length pro- yidfd for their own fafety by retiring from the Revolutloji of Geneva* 1 59 the town before the entry of the confederate troops. When the unexpeded news of the furrender was announced to the public, they became fran- tic with defpair. Some mutually embraced each other without uttering a fingle word ; others loaded their chiefs with the moft dreadful im- precations; while a few, fl:ill determined to refift, ineffedually fummoned their fellow citi- zens by beat of drum to their fl:andards. The greateii: part, however, having difcharged and broken their muficets, flung themfelves with their faces to the ground, and lay motionlefs for a confiderable time. At length a general re- treat took place. The roads were covered with perfons of both fexes, who fled hafliily from the walls ; and the Sardinians, who firft entered the gates at five in the morning, found the city almofl deferted. The count de la Marmora, as if aftuated by motives of compaflion for the degraded fituation of Geneva, marched in filence, and without an infulting difplay of military pomp ; and, having occupied the town-houfe and the magazines for powder, vifited in perfon the different quarters of the city, in order to diflipate all apprehen- fions of danger. About noon the two other commanders made their entry : they were ac- companied by a large body of Negatives, and marched at the head of their refpedive troops, with drums beating and colours flying. Having joined the Sardinian forces, the three generals conduded the magiftrates, lately delivered from prifon, to the Great Council, and re-eflablifhed them in their feveral charges, to the found of raartial mufic. The citizens were difarmed ; .^ . each 140 LETTER 65. each houfeholder obliged to furnifti the officers with quarters ; the edid of the 6th of February 178 1, which had conferred the burgherfhip on above a hundred natives, was annulled. In the midft of thefe arrangements, the Great Council laid, with all due form, the foundation of a the- .atre: a troop of comedians was introduced; and the anftocratical party celebrated their triumph with balls, feafts, and every fpecies of public diverfion. *^ Mean while a committee appointed by the Great and Little Councils prepared, in concert with the three generals, an edift for new mo- delling the conftitution ; which being approved at the courts of Verfailles and Turin, and by the canton of Berne, was confirmed by the Great and Little Councils, But as it annulled many confiderable rights hitherto enjoyed by the citizens, it was not probable, that it would be ratified by the General Council, in which the party of the Reprefentants had ftiU a great ma- jority. In order, therefore, to obtain its final confirmation, it was enaded, that, when the edift was laid before the General Council, thofe Reprefentants, who had taken up arms Ihould for that time be excluded; under pre- tence that the infurreftion had rendered them unworthy of exercifing their rights ; and it was added, that they might efteem themfelves ex- tremely fortunate in not being expofed to the utmoft rigour of the laws. Accordingly, on the 15th of November, 1782, the members of the General Council affemb'ed to the number of five hundred; above a thoufand being excluded from giving their votes. And yet even this fantom of fupreme power Revolution of Geneva. 141 power was furrounded with troops. Notwith- ftanding, however, the exclufion of fo many, and the general panic, above a hundred Repre- fentants, and even feveral Negatives, had the courage to rejeft the edid ; which appeared to many, even among the Negatives, as eftablilh- ing too rigorous an ariftocracy. ^ '"fhe citizens of Geneva have incurred much ridicule and cenfure, for having fo early and re- peatedly expreffed the moft determined refolu- tion never to furrender the town, and to refift until it was taken by aflault. In a pamphlet, alfo, ^ftyled, " Lettre ecrite des ramparts gL neve^^ the author combats all the arguments which might be urged in favour of a capitu- lation ; and vehemently afTerts, that he, as well as his fellow citizens, are refolved to defend the town to the lad extremity, and rather to court death from the hands of the enemy than furviye the extinftion of their liberties. Thefe affertions appeared mere oftentatious vaunts, as the pamphlet was not printed and difperfed until after the furrender ; and led the public to attri- bute vain-boafting and cowardice, which are ufually united, as effential charaderiflics of the people of Geneva. ^ On reviewing, however, the hiftory of the revolution with impartiality, it cannot admit a doubt; that the people were unanimoufly againft a furrender ; that, till within a few hours before the confederate troops entered the gates, they expefted, and were prepared for, an aiTault ; that they had entrufted the command to the committee of fafety; that the latter, alarmed at the near approach of danger, had fuddenly changed their opinion ; had betrayed them into a furrender 142 LETTER 6s. a fiirrender againfl their intentions, and without their knowledge; and had taken fuch pre- cautions as rendered ^11 refiftance imprafti. cable. As the committee has been greatly cenfured for this fudden change of opinion ; it is but juf- tice to add, that of eleven members and feveral adjuncts, who compofed the committee, two thirds voted againft the furrender. But in fa^c, of what avail was refiftance at this period? Upon a fuppofition that the fiege could have been protraded for a few days; the kings of France and Sardinia, and the canton of Berne, had frefh troops ready to march ; and in lefs than a weei^Jo large a reinforcement would have becti collefted before the gates of Geneva, that any further oppofition muft have been niadnefs. In a word, the popular leaders afted wrong in buoying up the hopes of the people, that refiftance could be effeaual ; and by the reparation of the ramparts only ferved to in- fpire the public with a dangerous confidence, which they were not afterwards able to difli- pate. Such is the hiftory of this extraordinary revo- lution ; prepared for fome time by the enmity of the two parties ; occafioned by the impolitic, though juft, demand of a code of laws ; haft- ened by the two infi.irreclions ; and completed by the intrigues and arms of France. It muft be acknowledged, that the Reprefentants, or popular party, aded in a moft imprudent as well as unconftitutional manner; and particularly, that no excuJ'e can be admitted for the fecond infurredion, and the imprifonment of the ma- giftrates. The Reprefentants, by the edid of 1768, Revolution of Geneva. 143 1768, polTefled great privileges, which, in time, would have placed in their hands the whole adminiftration of government. As the greatefi: number in the General Aflembly, they enjoyed the right of annually excluding four members from the Senate, and of filling half the vacan- cies in the Great Council; they muft, there- fore, in a few years, have inevitably obtained a decided majority. The moft prudent amono- them faw this advantage, and were contented ; but the greater part, and perhaps a few of their leaders, eager to grafp immediately that power, of which they had only a diftant profped, pre- cipitated meafures; and ading, in a few in- ftances, diametrically oppofite to the firft prin- ciples of their conftitution, haftened its deftruc- tion. It muft, at the fame time, be confeiTed, that however imprudently or unconftitutionally the Reprefentants aded, yet that the Negatives, fecure of fupport from the Court of Verfailles, feemed to carry their confidence in their own ftrength to fuch a degree, as almoft to court the troubles which enfued ; and that they have availed themfelves of their vidory to a degree only to be palliated by abfolute neceflity. A new form of government introduced by force, muft be fupported by force ; by calling in the afliftance of France, they muft be entirely fub- miflive to that power ; and by annihilating the firft principles of liberty, in difarming the citi- zens, and forbidding all public meetings, they are in^ danger of extinguiftiing that fpirit of emulation and energy for which the Genevans have long been diftinguiflied. Having efta- bliflied a rigorous ariftocracy, they muft necef- farily adopt that jealoufy and fufpicion which not 144 LETTER 65. not unfrequently charaaerizes the maglftrates under that fpecies of government : and the only queftion now remaining, is, Whether the above- mentioned fpirit of emulation and energy will be diminifhed by the change of conftitutionj and if fo, whether that diminution will be counterbalanced by the introdudion of a greater degree of tranquillity than is ufually to be found in democratical ftates ? The changes in the form of government, intro-' duced by this revolution, are principally com- prized in the following articles : 1. The power granted, in 1768, to the Ge- neral Council, of re-eleftion, or of annually excluding four members from the Senate, is abolifhed. 2. The privilege enjoyed by the fame affem- biy, of nominating half the vacancies in the Great Council, is likewife annulled; and that body is now fupplied by the Senate and Great Council, according to the following complicated mode of eledion :— In cafe of fixteen vacancies, the Great Council felefts eight members from fixteen candidates propofed by the Senate ; and in like manner the Senate choofes eight from the fame number of candidates appointed by the Great Council. 3. The right of reprefentation^ or remonftrat- ing, is taken from the citizens at large, and transferred to thirty-fix adjunfts, who may be prefent in the Great Council, on the firft Mon- day of each month : they enjoy the privilege of making reprefentations, and in that cafe have a de- Revolution of Geneva- 14^ a deliberative vpice. But, as they are remove- able every year ; and are drawn by lot from all the Citizens in general, who may chufe to pre- lent themfelves as candidates; they are confi- dered as fo extremely dependent on the will of the maglftrates, and their reprefentations have fuch little weight, that they are called in deri- lion, Les Images, or. The Shadows. 4. The introduftion of the graheau, or annual confirmation of the members of the Senate, and of the Great Council, exclufively vefted in the laft-mentioned body. This law, which may be confidered as the bafis of the new conftitution has transferred to the Great Council part of the authority both of the Senate and of the General Council. By fubjefting the Senate to this an- nual revifion, it has rendered that body greatly dependent on the Great Council ; which by the prefent conftitution is become, what the Senate was according to the form of government efta- bhfhed in 1738 and 1768, the center of the ari- Itocracy. 5. The circles, or clubs, in which the citi- zens ufed to be convened, and all public affem- blies *, are prohibited ; and they are only allow- Vol. II. L ed * One inftancc of the ill effefts arifing from this prohi- bition, fell under my obfervation : The Society of Arts in C,cneva, many of whofe members are perfons of great abi- mes and learning, has already given to the worfd fevt^ral interefhng publications. But as all public a/Temblies are prohibited government was fufpicious left this literary fociety fhould indulge ufelf in political queftions ; and accord^ ingly no meeting has been held fince the late revolution, indeed when 1 was at Geneva, it was then in agitation tg luffcr the fociay to afTemble; but it was very uncertain whether ? ^1' 146 L E T T E R 65. ed to meet at coffee-houfes. This prohibition was at firft carried to an extreme degree of jea- loufy, highly derogatory from every principle of free government ; but lately it has been fome- what modified ; and aflemblies are permitted to be held in the country, though not within the walls of Geneva. 6. The militia is aboliflied ; firing at marks, even with bows and arrows, prohibited j and the guard of the town, inftead of being con- figned to the citizens, is entrufted to a garrifon of 1000 foreign foldiers, whofe colonel and major are both foreigners : thefe troops take an oath of fidelity to the republic, and of. obe- dience to the Great Council, and to the Com- mittee of War ; they are under the immediate command and infpection of the latter, and fub- jeft to the fuperior controul of the former. This garrifon may be augmented to 1200, and reduced to 800 men, at the will of the Great Council ; but cannot be further enlarged or diminilhed without the confent of the General Council. 7. No citizen, native, or inhabitant, is per- mitted to have arms. It is not unworthy of re- whetber this pemiifl^on would be granted ; and if granted, whether it woi^ld not l>e greatly fettered by the diminution of the number of its members, md by fcvecal other reilric- tions, incompatible with the freedom ol literary difquifi- lions. It is a matter of little confeqiicnee to Europe in oe- neral, whether the government of Geneva is more or lefs ariftocratical or democratical ; but it is an objevfl of general importance, whether a literary fociety fhould be prevent- ed, by political jealoufv, from holding thofe afiemblies, which will afford a means and opportunity of continu- ing to fupply the world with learned and intcrefting pub- lications. mark Revolution of Geneva. lAy mark on this article, that although by the an- tient conftitution every citizen was obliged to provide himfelf with arms, under a certain penalty; yet, that when thefe were deliver- ed up, government did not" reimburfe the ex- pence. 8. Several taxes were impofed without the confent of the General Council ; but for the future, every change or augmentation of the revenue muft be fubmitted to that body 9. Various privileges, refpecting the equal nghts to trade and commerce, formerly pof- feffed by the citizens alone, have been confer- red on the natives and inhabitants; a liberal conceffion, to which both parties willingly ac POSTSCRIPT. fJ^^ Genevans feemed fo greatly to deplore the diminution of that liberty to which thev had long been accuftomed, and to which they alcnbed the late remarkable increafe of their population and riches, that if we had judged Irom the difcontents and confternatioa of the citizens, we might have concluded the change o| government would have been followed bv an almoft general emigration. The event, how- ever, has not juflified this conclufion. Ex- cepting the principal leaders, thofe of the po- '■' - pular [.lit. 148 LETTER 6s- ■ pular party who were baniflied, and a few others who renounced their country in com- pliance with their political principles ; the greateft part of the emigrants returned, and again fettled in the place of their nativity. And perhaps it may be affirmed with truth, that the late revolution has fcarcely driven fix hun- dred perfons from Geneva. The emigrants have principally eftabliflied themfelves at BrufTels and Conftance * ; where they have introduced manufa(^ures of printed linens and watch-making. I cannot quit this fub]e£l without recalling to your recolle^ion, the plan for giving an afylum to the Genevan emigrants in Ireland, which fo long engaged the public attention. Soon after the revolution, a memorial, figned by above a thoufand Genevans of both fexes, who were either perfons of fome property, or verfed in trade or manufaftures, expreffing a defire of fettling in Ireland, was prefented to Earl Temple, (^now JVIarquis of Buckingham) then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. His Excel- lency, confcious of the advanfage which muft refult to Ireland from the reception of fo many induftriotis artifts, many of whom pofTefTed pro- perty in the Englilh, Irifh, and French funds, communicated, on the 27rh of September, T782, the propofal to the Privy Council of Ireland, for giving an afylum to the Genevan emigrants. This propofal, patronized by the Lord Lieutenant, and unanimoully conlented to by the Privy Council, was approved by the ♦ See Letter '5. King. Revolution of Geneva. j^g King. The nobility and gentry of Ireland, feemed to vie with each other in countenancing the lettlement ; the Irifh parliament voted fifty thouland pounds towards defraying the expences of their journey, and building a town for their reception ; lands were purchafed for eight thou- fand pounds, in a convenient fituation near Waterford ; part of the New Geneva was ac- tually completed, at the expence of ten thou- fand pounds ; a charter was granted with very confiderable privileges; the .flandard of gold was altered for the accommodation of the watch manufaclurers ; the foundation of an academy approved, upon an ufeful, extenfive, and oeco- nomical plan*; in July, 1783, feveral Gene- vans landed in Ireland; and when the nation had expended near thirty thoufand pounds, the projea was fuddenly relinquifhed, and the fettlement finally abandoned. The failure of this projeft may be principally attributed to the following caufe:— If the fet- tlement could have been immediately carried into execution, the Genevans would have emigrated in very confiderable numbers; but The total expence of the academy would, at the hmheft calculation, have amounted to four thoufand five hundred and fifty.four pounds per annum, and at a more moderate valuation to only three thoufand nine hundred and twenty- four pounds. For this fum fony-four profefTors, afliflants, n L,"!? ^'"^ ^^"^"^ ^^""^ ^^^" maintained ; a public' library dtablifhed ; and the expences of a (tudent, in the article of education, would not have exceeded one hundred and fixty- four pounds eighteen (hillings for thirteen years, or about twelve pounds per annum. many 150 LETTER ^5* n manv necieffary delays were occafioned by the arrangemept of fo complicated a plan, by the high demands of the Gene\ian com« nWflioners, who, in drawing up the charter, required many privileges which were contra- didory to the laws of the land, and by the building of the New Geneva. Thefe delays naturally giving time for the refentment of the Genevans to fubfide, many returned and took the oaths of allegiance to the new go- vernment. To this circumflance muft be added the departure of Earl Temple, in May, 1783, who was the great patron and promoter of the fet- tlement ; . that the projeft, as it loft its novelty, j:radually became lefs popular; thJit the few Genevans, who had prematurely landed in Ireland, although maintained at the public ex- pence, yet were difcontented, at not finding the new town prepared for their immediate reception ; and that particularly, as thofe among the propofed emigrants who had moft property, h?d withdrawn their names ; the remainder did not poffefs a fufficient capital to fettle in a foreign country, and to eftabliih an expenfive branch of manufaSure without ftill farther ai- fiftance. In confequence of this deficiency, the Ge- nevan commitfioners petitioned to appropriate ten thoufand pounds of the fifty thoufand, for the purpole of forming a capital. But, as that fum had been voted by parliament for other purpofes, this petition was necef- jarily rejected j and the Genevans, in an addrcfs Revolution of Geneva* i ri addrefs to the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieu- tenant of Ireland, relinquiflied the fettle- ment ; and foon afterwards quitted that coun- try. T am, Src. fW LETTER 152 LETTER 66. LETTER 66, General Rejledions. llAVING, in the courfe of my former let- ters, communicated to you fuch obfervations as occurred to me during my tour through Switzerland, concerning the laws, government, and fituation of each canton in particular; I will now lay before you a few concluding re- marks, in relation to the ftate of that country in general. No part of Europe contains, within the fame compafs, fo many independent commonwealths, and fuch a variety of different governments, as are collefted together in this remarkable and delightful country ; and yet, with fuch wifdom was the Helvetic union compofed, and fo little have the Swifs, of laie years, been actuated with the fpirit of ccnqueft, that fince the firm and complete eftablifhment of their general con- federacy, -.hey have feldom found occafion to employ General RefieBions. 1^3 employ their arms againft a foreign enemy ; and have been troubled with no civil commotions that were not foon happily terminated. Per- haps there is not a fimilar inftance in antient or modern hiftory, of a warlike people, divided into little independent republics, clofely border- ing upon each other, and occafionally inter- fering in their refpeftive interefts, having con- tinued, during fo long a period, in an almoft un- mterrupted flate of tranquillity. And thus, while the feveral neighbouring kingdoms fufFer, by turns, all the horrors of war, this< favoured nation enjoys the felicity of looking down with fecurity upon the various tempefls that fhake the world around them. But the happinefs of a long peace, has neither broken the fpirit, nor enervated the arm of the Swifs. The youth are diligently trained to mar- tial exercifes, fuch as running, wreftling, and fhooting both with the crofs-bow and the muf- ket ; a confiderable number of well-difciplined troops are always employed in foreign fervices ; and the whole people are enrolled, and reo-u- larly exercifed in their refpeftive militia. By thefe means they are capable of colleding a very refpectaWe body of forces, which would prove formidable to any enemy who fliould invade their country, or attack their liberties. Thus, while moft of the other flates upon the continent are^ tending towards a military government, Switzerland alone has no (landing armies ; and yet, from the nature of its fituation, from its particular alliances, and from the policy of its internal government, is more fecure from inva- fion than any other European power. The \m 154 LETTER 66. The felicity of Switzerland, however, does not confifl merely in this peculiar exemption from the burdens and mifcries of war ; as there is no country in which happinefs and content more univerJally prevail among the people. For, whether the government is ariftocratical, democratical, or mixed ; a general fpirit of li- berty pervades and aduates the feveral confti- tutions : fo that even the oligarchical ftates, which are ufually the mod tyrannical, are here peculiarly mild ; and the property of the fubjeft is in general fecurely guarded againfl: every kind of violation. But one general defect prevails in the criminal jurifprudence of the country. For, although the Caroline code, as it is ftyled, or the code of jhe Emperor -Charles the Fifth, forms in each of the republics the principal bafis of their penal laws, with particular modifications and additions in diiferent diftrids ; yet much too great a lati- tude is allowed to the refpeftive judges, who are lefs governed in their determinations by this code, or any other written law, than by the common principles of equity. How far long experience may have juitified the prudence of trulUng them with this extraordinary privilege, or how far the feverity of the Caroline code renders it neceffary, 1 cannot fay ; but difcre- tionary powers of this kind, are undoubtedly liable to the mod alarming abufe ; and can ne- ver, without the greateft hazard, be committed to the hands of the maeilirate. o Upon this occafion, I cannot forbear refled- ing on the fuperior wifdom, in the prefent in- ftance, as we'i as in many others, of our own mcft invaluable conititution ; and, indeed, it is impoffible General Rcjledions^ 155 impoffible for an Englifliman to obferve the go- vernments of other countries, without becominf^* a warmer and more affedionate admirer of his own. In England, the life and liberty of the fubject does not depend upon the arbitrarv de- cifion of his judge, but is fecured by exprefs laws, from which no magiftrate can depart with impunity. This guarded precifion, it is true, may occafionally, perhaps, be attended with fome inconveniences ; but they are overbalanced by advantages of fo much greater weight, as to be fcarcely perceptible in the ^'cales of juftice. 1 not mean, however, to throw any imputation upon the officers of criminal jurifdidion iu Switzerhnd : as far as I could obferve, they ad- minilfer diftributive juftice with an impartial and equitable hand. I remarked, with peculiar fatisfaftion, the excellent itate of the prifons, and the humane precautions which the feveral legiflatures have adopted in relation to felons : a circumftance that (truck me the more forcibly, as the con- trary is but too vifible in England. In Switzer- land, the criminals are confined in wholeibme and feparate wards ; and inftead of languifhing in priion, to the great injury of their health, or total wafte of their little remnant of monev, are almolt immediately brought to trial. In England, an accuied perfon may be confined i\x months, or more, before his fate is determined : and if he is proved innocent, and fhould be in low circuinllances ; the lofs of his time, toge- ther with the expences of the jail-fees, may pro- bably occafion his utter ruin ; while his morals are in no leis danger, by being compelled to affociate with a fet of abandoned wretches, loll to 15^ LETTER 66. to all fenfe of fhame, and encouraging each other in their common profligacy. How much is it to be lamented, that, wKile our code of criminal jurifprudence is in general formed upon principles, which diftinguifh us with honour among the nations of Europe ; that our courts of jultice are thrown open to the view of all the world ; and that we enjoy the ineftimable and almoft peculiar privilege of being tried by our equals ; how much (I cannot forbear repeating) is it to be lamented, that the fame equitable and humane fpirit fliould be found wanting in fo important an article of our penal laws ! For a more particular account of the prifons in Switzerland, I would refer you to my friend Mr. Howard's publication * on the fubjeft. In this work th^ benevolent author has given many melancholy inftances, that the Englifh jails are much inferior to foreign prifons in cleanlinefs and good government. He muft, however, feel the moil fenfible fatisfaftion in finding, that his labours have already produced feveral advanta- geous regulations, particularly concerning the tees of prifoners who fhall be acquitted, and the prevention of the gaol didemper. Yet much Itill remains to be effefted. But as Mr. H. continues his laudable refearches, it may juftly be hoped, that he will at length efreftually fix the attention of the Britifh Senate upon an ob- jeft fo highly deferving the care of every wife and humane legiflature. * The State of the Prifons in England and Wales, &c. &c. Third Edition, 1784. And ^n account of fome foreion prifons. It General ReJle6lions, i^y It is a matter of aftonifhment, as well as of concern, to find, that in a country where the true principles of civil government are fo well underftood and fo generally adopted as in Swit- zerland, that the trial by torture is not yet abo- liflied: for, in fome particular cafes, the fuf- peded criminal is put to the rack. The ineffi- cacy, no lefs than the inhumanity, of endea- vouring to extort the truth by the feveral horrid inftruments which too ingenious cruelty has de- vifed for that purpofe, has been fo often expofed by the ablefl writers, that it would be equally impertinent and fuperfluous to trouble you with any farther refleftions upon the fubjed : and indeed, the whole ftrength of the feveral arguments urged upon this occafion, is com- prized in the very juft and pointed obfervation of the admirable la Bruyere, that la qitcftion ejh une invention merveilleufe ^ tout-a-fait fure, pour perdre tin innocent qui a la complexion foible^ £ff fauver un coupable qui eji ne robujie *. I cannot however, but add, in juftice to the Swifs, that zealous advocates have not been wanting among them for the total abolition of torture : but ar- guments of reafon, and fentiments of humanity, have been found, even in this civilized and en- lightened country, to avail little againft invete- rate cuftom and long-confirmed prejudices f . During • Caradteres, Vol. ii. p. 203. t Criminal juftice is here, as in the greateft part of Europe, adminiftered agreeably to the rules of the civil law. Ac- cording to the maxims of that code, the criminal's confcfHon IS abfolutely requifite for the infliaion ot capital punifhment ; and confequently, all thofe nations, which have not tfh- bliflied a new code of criminal juriiprudence, retain the ufe of torture. The 15^ LETTER 66. During my fubfequent expeditions into Swit- zerland, in 1785 and 1785, I was extremely happy to find, that the abfurdity as well as inhumanity of torture was more generally ad- mitted. It has long been fuppreffed in Geneva ; in many of the ariftocraiical cantons it is virtu- ally, though not formally abandoned ; and, as I have before had occafion to obferve, its public abolition in Berne forms a diftinguiftied asra in the hiftory of Swifs jurifprudence ; and, it is to be hoped, is the prelude to its total difufe throughout Switzerland. Learning is lefs generally diffufed among the catholic than the proteftant dates : but in both, a man of letters will find abundant opportuni- ties of gratifving his refearches and improving his knowledge. To the natural philofopher, Tlie prefent king of Pruflla fet the example, in Germany, of abolifhing this inhuman pra<5lice ; but few, perhaps, ar? apprized, that the firfl hint of this reformation was fuggefted to him by reading the Hiftory of England. For, one of xhc principal arguments in fupport of this method of extortii)*; confeffion, being, that it affords the beft means of difcovenn^ plots againft government ; the fagacious monarch remarked, that the Britifh annals fully confute the fallacy of thut reafoning. Few kingdoms, he obfervcd, had abounde 1 more in confpiracies and rebellions than England ; and yet the leaders and abettors had been more fucccfsfully traced and difcovered, without the ufe of torture, than in any country where it was pradifed. ** From thtnccy^ added this wife politician, " I faw the ahfurdtty of torture, and ** ahoiybed it accordingly.^* This anecdote, which I received from very refpe<5lable authority, bears the moft honourable teftimony to the effi- cacy as well as the mildnefs of our penal laws, and to the fuperior excellency of the procefs obferved in our court? of <;riminal juftice. Switzerland • '"^ General RefieBlons. ^ j^g Switzerland will afford an inexhauftible fource of entertainment and information, as well from the great variety of phyfical curiofities fo plen- tifully fpread over the country, as from the confiderable number of perfons eminently fkilled in that branch of fcience. Indeed in every town, and almofl in every village, the curious traveller will meet with colledions worthy of his attention. With refpea to agriculture ; there are, per- haps, few countries, wherein the advantageous effeds of unwearied and perfevering induftry are more remarkably confpicuous. In travelling over the mountainous ^arts of Switzerland, I was ftruck with admiration and aftonifhment,'to obferve rocks, that were formerly barren, now planted with vines, or abounding in rich paflure- and at marking the traces of the plough alone the fides of the fteepeft declivities. In a word the mhabitants feem to have furmounted every obftruftion of foil, fituation, and climate; and to have fpread fertility over various fpots, which nature feemed to have configned to everlaftine barrennefs. In fine, a general fimplicity of manners, an open and unaffefted franknefs, to. gether with an invincible fpirit of freedom may juflly be mentioned, in the number of thofe peculiar qualities which dignify the pub- he charafter of this people; and diftinguifh them with honour among the nations of Eu- rope. I have now laid before you the principal ob- lervations which occurred to me in my journey through Switzerland : happy ! if they may in any refpeft have contributed to your informa- tion or amufemcnt. They were originally in- tended i6o LETTER 66. ' ti , tended merely as a private memorial of friend- fhip; but I have an additional fatisfaftion in this opportunity of publicly teftifying the fmcere efteem and regard with which I am. Dear Sir, &c. I % LETTER Co7n0* i6t !j|#i.' LETTER 67. CoiUB — Mendrifio—Lake ef Como — PUniana — Fort of Fuentes —Laghetto di Chiavenna — Entrance into the Country rf the Gri/hns. Chiavenna, July 21ft, iT^g*, DEAR SIR, OINCE 1 travelled over part of Swit2eriand, 1 have been defirous to make a tour through the remainder of that country, particularly to vifit the Grifons : and, as I am now returning to England, I fhall take the opportunity of in- dulging my curiofity. In the mean time, I propofe the fatisfadion of continuing to fend you, on this as on the former occafion, all the information and intelligence I am able to pro- cure. I quitted Milan laft week, and proceeded through a gently rifmg country, well wooded and fertile in corn and vines, to Como. This town being the birth-place of Pliny the younger, the inhabitantsj have placed Jiis ftatue in a Vol. IL M niche l62 LETTER 67. niche on the outfide of the church, with a Latin infcription, bearing the date of 1499. I need not remind you, with how much rap- ture and enthufiafm Pliny mentions the delight- ful fituation of his native town, and the ro- mantic fcenery of the environs, in thofe let- ters, of which you have given to the public fo accurate and elegant a tranilation. . Como is indeed moft pleafantly fituated, in a narrow vale, enclofed by fertile hills, upon the fouthern extremity of the beautiful lake which bears the fame name. The town is fur- rounded by a wall guarded with pifturefque towers, and backed by a conical eminence, on which ftand the ruins of an antient caftk. The houfes are neatly built of ftone ; and the cathe- dral is a handfome edifice of white marble, hev^n from the neighbouring quarries. The inhabitants have eftablifhed feveral manufaftures of cotton and filk ; and carry on fome trade with the Grifons. From Como I made an excurfion to Men- drifio, one of the Italian bailliages belonging to the * twelve cantons of Switzerland. Thefe bailliages formed part of the Milanefe, and in 1 5 12, were ceded to the cantons by Maximilian Sforza, who was raifed to the ducal throne by the Swifs, after they had expelled the troops of * Appenzel Is excluded from the co- regency, becaufe the ' ceffion was made m 1512, the year before that repubHc was admitted into the Helvetic confederacy. Befide Mendrifio and Balerna, the other Italian bailliages are Locarno, Lu- gano, and Val-Maggia. Uri, Schwctz, and Undervvalden, polTefs three bailliages, Belllnzona, Riviera, and Val-Brenna, V^hich were equally diimembercd from the Milanefe, Louh Mendrifio* 163 GUIS the Twelfth, and taken pofleflion of the duchy. Francis the Firfl, fuccelTor of Louis, having recovered the Milanefe, and fecured his conqueft by the victory of Marignano, pur- chafed the friendfhip of the Swifs by confirming their right to the ceded territory ; a right which the fubfequent dukes of Milan have been too prudent to difpute. Mendrifio and Balerna is one of the fmallefl of thefe tranfalpine bailliages : the bailif or go- vernor is appointed alternately by each of the twelve cantons, and remains in office two years. He is fupreme judge in f criminal affairs without appeal : a power too great to be entrufted to a ftranger, commonly ignorant of the laws, and interefted to increafe his revenue. In civil caufes an appeal lies to the fyndicate of Switzer- land. The inhabitants enjoy confiderable privi^ leges, civil, ecclefiaftical, and commercial. The diftrift is extremely fertile in vines, corn, and pafturage; and yields a great quantity of excel- lent filk* Upon my return to Como, I embarked upon the lake. The banks near the town are richly wooded, and ftudded with country houfes and fmall villages, which lie upon the gentle accli- vities neat the margin of the water. At firft the lake is fcarcely a quarter of a mile broad, but it widened as we turned round a neck of land upon which is fituated the fmall village of Turnio. f In cafe of capital punlfliment, he is obliged to confjlt the fecretary, notary, and the other officers of the diftrid ; but as they have no vote, his power is fupreme. M The 164 L E T T E R 67. The neighbourhood of Turnio, and the dif- tfifts bordering the lake of Como, fupply, for th^ itioft part, thofe Italian emigrants who wan- det through Europe vending barometers and thermometers ; of whom numbers annually re- fort to Engkmd for that purpofe. After about an hour's rowing, we came to Pliniana, remarkable for a Angular fountain, which is ftill to be feen in the fame flate as de- fcribed by Pliny. Pliniana, a villa belonging to a Milailefe nobleman, is conftrufted upon the edge of the water, in a mod romantic fitu- atioh, backed by rocks covered with trees and parture. The mafter of the houfe received me with much civility and politenefs, and kindly accompanied me to the fountain. It is a fpring, which burfts from the rock clofe to the houfe, and falls in natural cafcades into the lake. I perfonally examined fome of the circumftances alluded to in the following defcription ; and received the others from the gentleman himfelf, who had repeatedly made them the fubjeft of his obfervation. The fpring ebbs and flows three times a day : this increafe and decreafc is regular, excepting in bad weather. In the late feafon, which has been remarkably fair, its changes were more vifible than ufual. From being almoft dry, it gradually rifes, until it forms a confiderable ftream ; and then as gra- dually fubfides, till the period of its fwell re- turns. I faw it in its flow, and meafured its Increafe by placing Hones at diflerent diftances, all of which it reached and covered in a fmall fpace of time. '1 he original paflfage, in which Pliny defcrlbes tlie ebb and flow of this fpring. IS i • . Lake of Como,^ i5^ is written upon the wall of an adjoining apart- ment. Fons oritur in monte, per faxa decurrit, excitU tur ctznatiunculd manu fadd ; ibi pauliilum re- tentus in Larium lacum decidit. Hujus mira na- tura : ter in die Jiatis auaibiis ac dtminutionibus crefcity decrefcitque. Cernitur id palam^ iff cum fummd ^ voluptate deprchcnditur^ juxtd recumbis^ et vefceris : atque etiam ex ipfo fonte (nam efl frL gidijftmus) potas : interim ille certis dimenfifque mo- mentis vel fubtrahitur vel adfurgit, annulum feu - quid aliud ponis in ficco, alluitur fenfim^ ac novif Jtme aperiiur :^ detegitur rurfus paulatimque deferi- tur : ft diutiiis obferves utrumque iterum ac tertid videas *. Having gratified my curiofity at Pliniana, I embarked, and continued to Clarice, where I pafled the night. The weather, which has lately been uncommonly fultry, is fuddenly changed : and this morning a violent thunder- ftorm overtook us upon the lake. The water ,. '^.P".' ^/f^-.lJb. iv. Ep. XXX.—" There is a fpring which riles in a neighbouring mountain, and running amon^ the * rocks IS received into a little banquetting-room, from whence, after the force of its current is a little reftrained. It falls mto the Larian lake. The nature of this fpring IS extremely furprizing; it ebbs and flows regularly three tinies a day. The increafe and decreafc is plainly vifible, and very entertaining to obferve. You fit down by the hde cf the fountain, and whilft you are taking a repaft and drmking its water, which is extremely cool, you *; fee It gradually rife, and fall. If you place a ring, or any thing elfe at the bottom when it is dry, tbfe ftream ^^ reaches it by degrees till it is entirely covered, and then ,, again gently retires from it ; and if you wait, you may Jf ';, =^^ advance and recede three tiroes fucceffivelv." Melmoih's TranJIatlon, ^ being *l 1 66 LETTER 67. ■liilr" Fort of Fuentes. 167 being fo much agitated, that we could not pro, ceed without danger, we landed at a fmall vil- lage upon the weftern fide of the lake, in order to wait until the ftorm fhould fubfide. The navigation of thefe lakes, which are enclofed between the mountains, is occafionally danger- ous, according to Virgil's defcription of the Be- nacus, or Lago di Guarda, Ti/, Lari maximc^ tuque Fludibus eifremtiu ojfiirgens^ Bennce^ marino. Travellers who have vifited thefe parts in calm weather, are apt to confider fuch cxpreflions as exaggerated; but I am convinced, from the ftorm to which I have juft been witnefs, that fuch a defcription is confonant to truth. The lake of Como is about thirty-fix miles in length ; in general from two to three miles broad, and four at the wideft part, where it is divided into two branches. The great branch leads direftly to Como ; and the fmaller branch, called the Lake of Lecco, difcharges the Adda, and communicates, by means of that river and the canals * of the Adda and the Canale Vecchio, with Milan. The borders are high hills covered with vines, Spanifti chefnut, walnut, and almond trees, and dotted with numerous villages and fmall towns. The hills which bound the lake, rife gradually higher and higher, from thofe which encircle Como to the crags which tower near its upper extremity. * See Letter 87. The ftorm at length fubfiding, I embarked, and proceeded to Bellano, whofe ftreets are fo narrow as fcarcely to admit the fmalleft cart. It is fituated at the foot of a lofty precipice, rent from top to bottom by a chafm, through which a furious torrent forces its way. A bridge is thrown acrofs the chafm, from whence the fpec- tator looks down with terror into a gulf fcarcely inferior in depth to that at the Panton-bruck *, in the canton of Glarus ; and an aqueduct is conduced along the precipitous fides of the rock. I again embarked, and proceeded to Domafio, where I waited upon the governor, in order to obtain his permiflion to vifit the Fort of Fuen- tes : my requeft being readily complied with, I croffed the lake, accompanied by a foldier from Domafio, and landed at Collico. A liule above Domafio, on both fides of the lake, begins the malaria^ or unwholefome air. In thofe parts, the borders of the lake are no longer abrupt hills rifing boldly from the edge of the water ; but a flat fwamp, which was for- merly covered with water. The inhabitants are fubjeft to intermitting fevers; on which account, during the heats of fummer, when the malig- nity of the atmofphere is at its height, the great- eft part of the inhabitants quit the plain, and retire to the neighbouring mountains. We found Collico and its neighbourhood almoft en- tirely deferted ; the cottages were ihut up ; and, had it not been for the appearance of a ftrag- gling man and woman, we fliould have con- * See I^etter 6. •11 The <;Iude.l 168 LETTER 67. «iiVi| I eluded this part of the country to have been quite uninhabited. After walking about two miles from ColUco, we came to the bottom of the rock, upon which Hands the Fort of Fuentes. But before we afcend, I fliall detain you a moment with a (hort hiflory of this fort, which at the beginning of the laft century, was fo much celebrated in the annals of Europe. One of the articles in a treaty between Francis Sforza, Duke of Milan, and the Grifons, ex- prefsly flipulating that no fort Ihould be con- ilrufted in the diftrid of Piantedio^ was con* firmed by the Spanifh branch of the Houfe of Auftria, which iucceeded Charles the Fifth in the poffeflion of the Milanefe. Notwithftand- ing, however, this agreement, when the reli*^ gious difputes, occafioned by the introduftion of the reformed religion into the Valteline, had created a jealoufy between the Houfe of Auftria and the Grifons, and affairs feemed tending to a rupture ; the count de Fuentes, governor of Milan, laid, in 1603, ^^^ foundation of the fort, which he called after his own name, and faw it completed in 1606. From this place, fituated in the Pianicdio^ he introduced troops into the Valteline, and fupported the inhabi- tants in their hoftilities againft the Grifons, Henry the Fourth of France, alluding to the conftruftion and fituation of this fort upon the borders of Italy, and near the confines of the Grifons, ufed to fay, // vetd dii meme na^ud ferrer la gorge de /' Italie ei les pieds aux Grifons *. * With the fame knot he binds the neck of Italy ami the feet of the Grifons. If f Fori of Fuentes » iCg If you are not fatigued with this preliminary account, we will now mount to the fort, and take a view of its prefent ftate. It is 'built • upon an infulated rock, about a mile and a half from the neareft ridge of mountains, and two miles from the lake, fo that it completely commands the only great opening which leads into the Valteline, either from the Milanefe or the Grifons ; a fituation of great importance • when the poffeflion of the Valteline was an ob' jea of fuch confequcnce to the Houfe of Auftria. The fortifications, which are only a quarter of a mile in circumference, are con- ftru^led with ftone, and are very ftrong. The only building are a few ruinous barracks for loldiers, and the governor's houfe, which is in a moft wretched condition. The whole /rani, fon confifts of three foldiers, who, at the expi- ration of three days, return to Domafio, and are relieved by an equal number from the fame place. 1 he only inhabitants are a peafant and his wife, who have refided there a year and have been almoft conftantly afflifled with the ague. The plain below the rock being entirely marfhy and covered with ruflies, exhales a pet tilential effluvia, which infefts the atmofphere and occafions the unwholefomenefs of the fort! The Spaniards were accuftomed to flyle this place, from its peculiar fituation, the v^>^^ of the Grifons; while the latter, in allufion to its bad air, termed it with more propriety, the grave ot the Spaniards. ^ The view from the fort is remarkably fine and piaurefque. On one fide, the rich Valteline, watered by the turbulent Adda; on the other, the if 170 LETTER 67. saiit the lakes of Como and Chiavenna, beautifully encircled with numerous towns and villages. The hills which (kirt the Valteline and the lake of Como, prefent a variegated landfcape of ftw refls, corn-lields, and paftures, finely contrafled, towards the Grifons, by the rugged Rheiian A'ps covered with eternal fnow. Having taken leave of the three foldiers, and bid adieu to the peafant and his wife, I de- fcended into the plain : the foil of whicli is fer- tile, but being fubjed to frequent inundations, is not capable of conftant cultivation. That part which lies between the fort and the lake, is fo marlhy, that although the ftrait line to the place, where the boat waited for me, fcarcely exceeded two miles, yet I was obliged to make a circuit of five before I arrived. In my way, I pafled a range of fquare (tones, which form the boundary between the Milanefe and the country of the Grifons ; on one fide of each ftone was infcribed Stato di Milam^ on the other Grigioni: they were put up, as the date in- formed me, in 1763, the year in which the treaty, or the capitulation of Milan, was con- cluded between the Emprefs of Germany, as fovereign of Milan, and the Grifons. By this treaty, the limits of the two ftates were finally fettled; and feveral other fubjeSs pf difpute were amicably adjufted. I came to the Adda, which, for a fhort fpace, makes the line of feparation between the Milan- efe and Grifons, and walked along its banks. Its ftream is muddy, and navigable only by rafts. Moll of the maps of the lake of Como are erroneous, in representing that lake and the Laghetto di Chiavenna as one great piece of waterj^ Plurs. " 171 v^ater, and the Adda as flowing into the former; whereas the two lakes are diftinft bodies, and the Adda joins a fmall ftream which iflues from the Laghetto^ and thus united, falls into the lake of Como. I embarked near Dacio, which is the laft vil- lage in the Milanefe ; at which place all boats laden with merchandize are obliged to land, and pay a fmall duty. Soon afterwards I entered the lake of Chiavenna, which belongs to the Grifons. The views of this lake are extremely wild and magnificent ; furrounded as it is with barren rocks, craggy, and rifing into fpires fprinkled with fnow : the bafes of thofe dreadful precipices are loft in the dead and overfhadowed water, dangerous on account of its malignant vapours, and aflbrding no afylum, and fcarcely a landing-place, to the crews of thofe frail boats, which are caught unwarily in the violent ftorras to which it is fubjed. I landed at Riva, which confifts of a few fcattered cottages and ware- houfes, the miferable owners whereof are the only inhabitants. Having procured fome horfes, I proceeded i(^ Chiavenna by moon-light. The villages were almoft entirely deferted, and the inhabitants withdrawn to the mountains : the people in ge- neral are fo greatly alarmed at the unwholefome ftate of the air in this feafon, that the watermen who rowed me from Como, although exceed- ingly fatigued, went back to Domafio ; and ex- erted all their eloquence to diffuade me from my firft intention of remaining in the plain : over- come by their repeated importunities, I purfued my journey to Chiavenna. Indeed no other proof of the tainted air is requifite than a view fi of n% L E T T E R (J;. of the inhabitants ; the few peafants whom } met in the villages, as well near the Fort of Fuentes as in the valley of Chiavenna, were moftly wan and livid. 1 he narrow valley thro' which I paffed from the lake to Chiavenna, is enclofed between the firft and lowed chain of the Rhetian Alps ; it is watered by the torrent Maira, and produces Turkifh wheat, paflurage, chefnuts, and mulberry-trees, together with a great abundance of willows. Near Chiavenna the afcent is rapid, and that town is built in a higher and more wholefome fituation. Flurs. ^73 LETTER 68. Plurs^—Ifs LeftruBion in the laji Century by a Fall of a Mountain — Valley of Pregalia. M July 25th. LETTER . Y laft letter left me at Chiavenna, of which town I defer fending you any defcription, as I propofe returning there in my way to Coire, The morning after my arrival, I rode about four miles, to the fpot formerly occupied by the town of Piuro, or Plurs, which was totally over- whelmed by the fall of mount Conto, under which it was built. This terrible cataftrophc happened Auguft 25th, 1618. Plurs was a large and flourifliing town, fub- jed, as well as Chiavenna, to the Grifons. Contemporary writers mention, that it contained three churches, many large houfes, and a flone bridge over the Maira ; and that its population amounted to at leaft 1500 inhabitants, who carried 174 LETTER 68. carried on no inconfidcrable commerce. The valley in which it was fituated is very narrow, and the whole town was buried in one undiftin- guiftied ruin. A contemporary account relates, that the cloud of duft and rubbifh was fo great as to cover the heavens like fmoke, and even to extend as far as Chiavenna : the inhabitants of Chiavennaj alarmed at this uncommon pheno- menon, were ftill more terrified at the difappear- ance of the torrent Maira, which fuddenly ceafed to flow by that town for near an hour ; Jts courfe being flopped by the fallen fragments of rock, until it forced its way over the ruins. This event fpread fuch an univerfal alarm among the inhabitants, from an apprehenfion that the torrent had undermined Chiavenna, and would burfl out with fuch fury as to deluge the whole place, that great numbers precipitately fled into the mountains. I walked over the fpot where Plurs was built : parts of the antient walls, and the ruins of a country houfe, which belonged to the Franci, the richefl family in the place, are the only re- mains of its former exifl:ence ; and thefe would not be noticed by a pafl'enger. A peafant, who has a cottage clofe to the ruins, pointed out to me every place, as it had been explained to him by his grandfather. He fhewed me where fliood the churches and principal houfes, the channel through which the river then flowed, and where the bridge was conftrudted. He informed me^ that in digging, fevcral dead bodies had been found ; and pariicuiuiiy the bones of a priefl:, covered with Ihreds ot garments, which indi^ «ated that he was employed in divine fervice whea Lake of Chiavenna, \jk when the rock overwhelmed the town. Houf- hold utenfils are frequently dug up ; the other day feveral corpfes were difcovered, and on the finger bone of one were a filver and two gold rmgs. Vineyards, chefnut-trees, and houfes cover the fpot where this unfortunate town was once fituated. The valley in this part has an oval appear- ance, and IS fkirted by a beautiful grove of chef- nut-trees ; the furrounding mountains are ftecp and rugged, and from the top of mount Sa- vonne, /' acqua fragia, a confiderable torrent, precipitates itfelf, at firft in a full unbroken ftream, and afterwards divides into three fepa- rate falls, highly ornamental to the beautiftil fcencry of the vale. I next followed my guide to the houfe of a gentleman near Chiavenna, in order to fee a drawing of Plurs before it was overwhelmed • the anceftors of this perfon had large poiTeflions! and were the richefl: family in the town. The mafter of the houfe fliewed me the pifture, and explained to me the fituation of the different buildings. He then politely accompanied me through his grounds to a manulafture of Itone pots, called Lavezzi, which are made oiear Chiavenna, and are much ufed for kit- chen utenfils throughout thefe countries, and fome parts of Italy. This manufafture is very antient : Pliny mentions the fl:one * un- der ^ Lapis OI/aris-^Fnnfs lapis Comenfs Is clafTed by Wallerius among the fleatites, by LI nir^ us among the taJc^ —It IS opake, unduous to the touch, and compofed of mica iJiL oi... m « > i iff 175 L E T t E R 68. der the denominations of lapis Comenfis, be- caufe the pots were fent to Como, and there exported. Thefe utenfils are made by the following ptocefs : the workmen hew from the quarry femicircular blotks of (lone, from which, with an inftrument refembling that ufed by turners, they hoUow a veflel about a foot in diame- ter. From the mafs which remains, by a fimiiar mode of proceeding, they frame ano- ther utenfil of inferior dimenfions, and con- tinue their operatioti till they have produced a feries of femicircular pots, gradually de- creafing to the fize of a fmall bafon. From Plurs 1 continued along the valley of Santa Croce, and entered the country of the GrifoiTs at the fmall village of Carta Segna, in Pregalia. . At Bondo, which is a fmall village in the val- ley of Pregalia, Count de Salis, formerly Bri- tifh envov to the Grifons, has conftruftcd a large and commodious houfe, and entirely fitted up in the Englifli talte. It is fituated at the extremity of a fmall plaiit fcarcely half a mile in length, and about four hundred paces broad, bounded on each fide by a chain of the Rhe- lian Alps, whofe fides are covered with forefts intermixed with luxuriant pafture. 1 he plain is fhut in by fome rugged rocks, behind which iathers ihoot to sa enormous height, crowned and fteatitcs. WTien it is fiift taken from the quarry it is caiily CHt and turned ; on b.ing cxpofed i^ the air it hardens, ixit Kill take no lialifh. * with M Galley ofP regalia. ' . 177' • With perpetual fnow. The little plain produces * ■excellent pafture, barley, rye, vegetables of all, forts, and fome fruit-trees. Through it dalhes Iock'°"^"' °^^^ ^'■''''^" fragments of •I rambled _ about the valley of Pregalia" and the neighbouring mountains; and ob- ferved the domeftic oeconomy of the pea- fants Their principal food is fait meat, rye bread milk, cheefe, polenta, and chef! nuts, which are fo plentiful at this feafon pt the year, that they make a principal ingredient m all their meals : the mofl com- mon methods of drefling them are to boil, and ferve tnem up with crumbs of bread; or to grind them to a pafte, and then hea them with fome milk. The peafants are well clothed. They ma- nufedure linen and coarfe cloth at home, every family having a loom, which is worked la the winter feafon. The finer cloth, which they wear only on Sundays and feftivais, is procured from Germany. The valley of Pregalia reaches from the lodefteria or Plurs to the confines of Upper i:.ngadina, and contains about one thouland eight hundred inhabitants : it is a hi^h iurif. diaion m the league of God's Houler and is divided into the two independent commu- ' nines of hopra an.i Sotto Porta ; fo denomi- nated from a wall with an opening called Porta through which the road paflts, and Sf Trr"'"' '^' ^""^y ""« t^o equal ' parts. _ Thele two communities enjoy a de- mocrancal form of government: a Ihort ac- count of which will convey to you fome ^''^•«- . N '' .idea 'i Iff 1,8 LETTER 68. idea of the mode in which the adminiara- tion of affairs is carried on in thefe httlc Yach community has its general affembly, in which the fovereign power is vefted ; every male, at the age of eighteen, has a vote: m each 6f thefe affemblies, the magiftrates and reprefentatives to the general diet, are chofen bv the majority of voices; mftruaions are eiven to the reprefentatives; and all appeals from the diet decided in the laft refort. For civil caufes, the two communities have le- parate tribunals, compofed of the Undam. man, who is prefident, and twelve affiftants ; and an appeal lies from one to the other. For criminal affairs, there is one court o iuftice, compofed of a Podejia, and an equal number of judges from each community. The Podefta is chofen m the following man- ner: each community appoints two perfons, who nominate nine others -, and thefe nine chufe two candidates, who draw lots tor the office The fame perfon is not unfrequently nominated Podefta by both parties ; and then the lot is caft, to afcertam to which he belongs. This criminal court of juftice is always held at Vico Soprano, in Sopra Porta. In all delinquencies the punifliments are ex- traordinarily fevere, and the remiffion or alleviation is entirely left to the judges, who generally take a commutation in tines; lo . that if the criminal is poor, he undergoes the punilhment, if rich, he redeems himfelf by befcription efthe Marmot. 179 li monev. L t t T E R t^. Ocfcriftion of the Marmot i LETTER 1 HE Marmot is extremely common in the mountains of Switzerland, and particularly in this part of the Grifons ; and, as many errone- ous accounts of this fagacious little animal have been given, I fliall fend you the following ex- trad, felefted from a defcription written in the German tongue^ by Dr. Girtaner* ; which can- not fall being highly interefting to all, who love to fearch into the oeconomy of nature. Dodor Amftein, of Zitzers, in the country of the Grifoins, is the firft naturalift who has narrowly inquired into the oeconomy of the marmot. Since his defcription of this animal in profeffor Schreber's work, he has himfelf made feveral new obfervations, and obtained _ • A French tranflation of this accour.t is given in Rozier's Joarnal f»r 1786. N 2 additional 1 1 i8o L E T t E R 69. additional information from Meflrs. Aporta and Catani, two clergymen of the Grifons. The marmot inhabits the higheft and mod rnacceflible mountains ; prefers the fmall nar- row valleys, and particularly the weftern or fouthern afped, as the warmed, and avoids moift places. On the opening of fpring, when he iilues from his hole, where he haa llept dur- ing winter, he defcends to the lower regions, where vegetation is forward. In fummer he again afeends to the rocky heights, and into folitary caverns. He feeds upon herbs and roots, and particularly on the alpine plantain, mountain fpignel, alpine ladies mantle, moun- tain forrel, alpine toad-flax, alpine trefoil, and alpine ftarwort*. When tame, he eats almoft every thing except flefh. On drinking, he raifes up his head hke fowls at every fip, look- ing on each fide with a timorous watchfulnefs. He drinks but little, to which Dr. Amflein at- tributes his fatnefs. He is extremely fond of butter and milk. At break of day, the old' marmots come out of their holes and feed ; afterwards, they bring out their young ones ^ the latter fcamper on all fides, chafe each other, fit on their hind feet, and remain in that pofture, facing towards the fun, with an air expreflive of fatisfaftion. They are all particularly fond of warmth, and when they think themfelves fecure, will baik in the fun for feveral hours. Before they colleft the grafs, either for their food, or for their winter / „- ♦ Plant ago alp'tna, Phellandrium muieilJna^ jilchemlUa ai- pina, Rumex dr^ynus, yintirrhinum alpinuniy Trtfol'ium alpinum^ AJler alp'inus, habitations. Befcrlption vf the Marmot. 1 8 1 habitations, they form themfelves into a circle, fitting on their hind legs, and reconnoitre on all fides. On the leaft alarm, the firft gives in- ftantly a (hrill cry, which is communicated from one to the other, and they efcape without re- peating the noife. The chafTeurs, by imitating thefe fuccefTive whifllings, approach fo near as to come within fhot of them. The marmot has a quick eye, and aifcovers the enemy at a confiderable dillance. He never does the leaft injury to any other animal, and flies when he is purfued. In fa(5l, when appre- henfive of being followed, whole families quit their dwellings, and wander from mountain to mountain, although they muft again conftrud: their habitations ; but when flight is impoflible, they defend themfelves with fpirit againft men and dogs, and attack all who approach them with their teeth and claws. They always live together in focieties. They have both fummer and winter dwellings, which are eafily diftinguiflied from each other. The former rernain open during the whole year ; whereas the latter are clofed at the end of SepI tember. In the furfimer dwellings is found dung in great abundance, but no hay : on the con- trary, the winter habitations never contain any dung, but much hay. Near the latter is per- ceived a more confiderable quantity of earth, which annually increafes according to the fize of the dwelling, and the augmentation of the family. In the formation of their dwellings they fcoop out the earth with great dext^^rity and expedi- tion : a fmall part they throw away, and by beating the remainder clofe, render the paflage verv i82 LETTER 69. very compaa and folid. The opening being fcarcely more than fix or feven inches in diame- ter, is juft large enough to admit the animal, The interior is from eight . to twenty feet in length ; it confifts of a paflage, which, at about five or fix feet from the entrance, divides into two branches : the one leading to a fmall cavity; the other to the chamber in which they repole. The paflage, and the two branches, are alv\ays carried in a ftraight line, unlefs the intervention of a rock, or any other impediment, obliges them to take another diredion. The chamber is round or oval, arched at top, and in its form refembles the fliape of an oven. It is from three to feven feet in diameter, being larger or fmallejf according to the number of the family. It is ilrewed with hay, in which the marmots lie in ^ dormant Hate during the whole winte^f. On retiring to this dwelling about the begin- ning of Oftober, they carefully clofe the en- trance fo as to exclude all ^ir, with a cement of earth mixed with ftones and hay. On opening this chamber, three weeks after it is clofed, the marmots are difcovered lying on the hay clofe to each other, and rolled up like hedge-hogs, withr out the kafl appearance of life. Ufually from five to fixteen are found together ; fometimes, * but rarely, two families occupy the fame dwell- ing ; and occafionally, but veiy feldom, one has been difcovered alone. If expofed to warmth they awaken. The tame marmots do not fleep during winter ; but on \h^ approach of that fea- fon, excited by inflinft, they colled materials towards conftruding their dwellings. The wild marmots occupy their winter habitation in Octo- ber, and quit i^ towards the latter end of March, or De/criftion of the Marmot. 183 or the beginning of April. In removing the ce- ment which clofes the opening, they do not pufli it outwards, but draw it inwards, and pro- bably convey the materials, which would block up the principal paflage, into the fmall cavity. They copulate foon after coming out : in June or July, young ones have been obferved, about the fize of rats. It is probable that they do not eat during their torpid ftate ; for the fame quantity of hay is obferved both in fpring and autumn, in their winter habitations, and thofe which have been dag out in that feafon are thin and perfeftly empty. The flefli of the marmot is eatable, and its {kin is ufed for furs, ' LETTER i / . i8^ LETTER 70. * LETTER fa[fage of the Malloggta—Lake of Siglio—Sclva. Plana and St, Morezzo — Expedition to the. ^ Julian Columns — Bevio, St. Morezzo, July 31ft. 1 HE road through Pregalia to Coire admits, carriages, but is very indifferently paved. I pafled through the village Promontogno, then through the Porta, to Stampa, Vico-Soprano, Burgo Nuovo, and Cafaucia. The houles in this valley are of ftone, plaftered and white- wafhed; they are not fcattered, as in the fmall cantons of Switzerland ; but every half mile a clufler of ha itations preients itfelf. Beyond Bc^ndo, the country produces no more ^chefnut-trees, but principally larch and firs; it yields grafs, barley, and rye. Near Cafaucia is the barren and lofty mountain of Set. I here quitted the high road, which turns towards Cloire, and about a mile and a half further the valley terminates, and I began t^ mount t*- » Lakes of Siglio and Selva Piana. i8_j mount a very fteep afcent, by the fide of the , torrent Maira, which ruflies amidft a foreft of firs ; It defcends from the Glacier of the Malin a ridge of Alps feparating the Vaheline from the' country of the Grifons. A little further I reached the top of the Malloggia, and obferved the Orlenga, a gliftening torrent, falling from ■the Lungm mountain, and forming the remoteft ._ fourceof the Inn The Malloggia is the point • ot partition, dividing the waters which run to- wards the Black Sea, from thofe which flow into the Adriatic. '1 he tops of the circumjacent mountains are mod rugged, and covered with mow: lower down they are eniivened with under-wood, firs, and pafture. . I flopped at a fingle houfe, a kind of inn, where travellers are accommodated. The land- lord and his family fpeak an Italian jargon, fimilar to the Milanefe dialed, which is com! mon m Pregalia. The next place is Siglio, in . Upper En- adina, where Romanfli is the general tongue.^ On irtquiring. whether it was fimilar to the Italian fpoken in Pregalia; the landlord warmed me, that, the two langaages are totally different ; and the fervant affured me, that Ihe could fcarcely comprehend a word which was mT ^^, H'r '^habitants of biglio. From Malloggia I defcen.^ed, and croffed the Orlensra and continued along the banks of the lake of ^>iglio. Ihe way was bad and craegy until I came to the confines of Engadina, where an excellent road commenced. The fmall lake of Siglio is about five miles «^ circumference and is finely fituated between S PfT"'^^'^"'^^ '■ocJ's. It takes its name irom bigho, which we left at a little dillance on 186 LETTER 70. on our right. I croffed the Inn foon after it ifliies from the lake, and purfued my courfe over the dry bed of the torrent Fait, which for- merly flowed into the Inn \ but has lately changed its courfe, and now falls into the lake of Seiva Piana. Nothing is more common than for thefe torrents to (hift their channels ; and I could obferve evident traces, that fome of them had at former periods watered the fmall plain between the lakes of Siglio and Selva Piana, The village of that name Hands pleafantly upon a fmall rifmg ground ; and the lake of Selva Piana, though much fmaller than that of Siglio, far furpaffes it in the beauty of its banks, which are fringed with hanging groves of fir and larch. From this lake the Inn iflues in a larger flream, falls again at a little diftance into the lake of St. Morezzo; from whence it daflies through a deep rocky channel into the plain of Celerina, where it runs in a more tranquil cur- rent. Thefe little plains, or vallies, are broader and longer than that of Bondo, ?^nd produce as much hay, which is now mowing. At Selva Piana, I endeavoured to converfe with fome of the inhabitants, but could fcarccly comprehend them. I have been endeavouring alfo to talk with the inhabitants of this place. Many fpeak Italian, as it is much frequented by flrangers for the fake of the waters ; but the ^reateft part could talk nothing but Romanfti. This morning, being Sunday, 1 attended divine fervice; the clergyman preached in the lan- guage of the country, and I could underftand little more than that the text was in the twenty*. fecond chapter of St. Luke. The fermon, which is the principal part of the fervice, was about S/. Morezzo- i$7 ^bout an hour Iqngj the prayers being very ihort : the girls fung pfahr^s ; fome of them had delightful voices, and performed with great taite and proprietj' : a proof of their neighbourhood to St. Morezzo, or as it is mpfl commonly palled, St. JViaiirice, ftands agreeably upon the fide of an hill, and overlooks a fmall lake, which lies in the bpfom of the mountains, and is bounded by rifing banks, fiudded with wood and pafture. It is a yillage in Upper Engadina, and is remarkable for a plentiful fpring of mi- neral water, much elleemed for its efficacy in curing feveral diforders. It jiTues from the ground, about the diftance of half a mile on the other fide of the river Inn ; is a very plentiful fource, and ftrongly impregnated with vitriol. Upon plunging Reaumur's thermometer into the fource, it funk from 12 to 4^, I was informed that a gentleman had lately afcertaiiied, from repeated obfervations, that the thermometer va- ried according to the greater or lefs degree of rain ; but that upon an average the mercury ge- nerally ftood between 4 and 7, I am lodged in one of the boarding-houfes, which abound in this place, for the accommo- dation of perfons who drink the waters. The company at table confift, at prefent, of only two merchants of Appenzel, who are eftablifhed at Genoa, and a clergyman of Lower Engadina. As I foon difcovered the latter to be an intelli- gent man, I held frequent converfation with him upon the Romanfh tongue ; but defer enlarn-ino: upon that fubjed until I fhall have gained "t'ur- ther information. I alfo talked with him upon me ftate of relig^n among the reformed part of M the I:'! lis LETTER 70, 1 the Grifons, and particularly in relation to the Fieti/is, a fed which has lately made great pro- grefs in thefe parts. From the account given by the clergyman, who evidently leaned towards their opinions, thefe Pietifls appear fimilar to our Methodifts ; for inftance, they exalt faith above good works ; affed to be uncommonly rigid and .pious; condemn all diverfions, card-playing, ' and aflemblies, as criminal ; frequently defpair of their falvation ; fancy villous, enjoy fuperna- tural inward illuminations, and employ fo much time in prayer as to negled their ordinary bufi- nefs. Ihe clergymen of this fed are for the moft part ignorant and fuperficial, are vehe- mently vociferous in the pulpit, thunder out re- probation, and expatiate upon juflification, with- out explaining the methods of avoiding the for- mer, and of obtaining the latter. Thefe preachers, notwithftanding their affec- tation of a total indifference to worldly matters^ do not confine their views merely to theological Ipeculations, but pay a confidcrable degree of attention to political affairs : and as, by means of their authority in religious concerns, they poffefs a confiderable influence over the votes of .their parlfliioners, they are on that account inuch careffed and countenanced by feveral lead- ing perfons among the Grifons. In thefe parts, the drefs of the women is fin- gular, and not unbecoming: it confifts of a black or blue jacket with red ileeves, flriped blue and white petticoats, a fmall black velvet cap trimmed with gold or fiiver lace, with a black or white lace border hanging over the forehead. Frcnx t 4 Exf edition to the Julian Columns. 1 89 Prom St. Morezzo, I made an excurfion to the Julian Columns, of which Scheuzer has given a defcription and an engraving in his Itinera AU pina : he fuppofes them to have been ereded bv Julius Casfar, in order to mark the limits of his conquefts in thefe parts; and afferts that, m plus ultra, and Omitto Rhetos indomitos. are in- Icribed upon them. From St. Morezzo, I went to Selva Piana and then turned up a path which leads to the' Julian Alps : after continuing about two hours over rugged rocks, I reached the Ju'ian Co- lumns,- if they deferve fo dignified an appella- tion. They are of a circular fhape, fomewhat fimilar to the Roman mile-ltones, placed at the diftance of about forty feet from each other, Iheir height above the ground is about four ieet, and they feem to be buried about a foot, or fcarcely fo much : their circumference is about five feet. They have neither pedeftals nor capi- tals, and are flattifli at top, with a fmall round hole in the middle about four inches diameter and fix deep. They were formed by art, but in the rudeft manner. I examined with great at- tention if I could obferve the infcriptions of Ne plus ultra, and 0;rtitte Rhetos indomitos, but I could not difcover the fnialleft traces of any let- ters. We have no reafon therefore to conclude that thefe pillars were ereded by Julius Csefar' m order to afcertain the boundary of his con! quells, or at lead we have no proofs upon which we can depend for the truth of this popular Itory. I do not however regret, that I made the excurfion ; for although my curiofity has i)een difappointed in a view^of the pillars, yet it has # ;:i 190 L E T T -E k •jo. has been gratified in vifiting thefe wild and ro- mantic Alps The Julian Alps produce much pafture, but iio wood, which is a proof of their great eleva- tion. Near the ftones juft now defcribed is a piece of water called the Julian Iske : it is fup- plied from a Glacier on a fuperinciimbent mountain, and fends forth a torrent that de- fcends to Selva Piana, and falls into the lake of that name : it may be confidered as a fource of the Inn. 1 foorl afterwards flopped at a cottage, the only houfe in the whole extent of thefe Alps : it is occupied only during fummer ; the tenants every night houfe the cattle that graze tipon thefe mountains, and make large quantities of butter and cheefe. Having taken a refrefliing bowl of thick cream, 1 began my defcent, and obferved numerous fmall ftreams 5 fome iiTuing from the rocks, others falling from the Glaciers^ and forming the firft fourCes of the Little Rhine^ The path was fo fleep and craggy, that I gave my horfe to the guide, and preferred walking; about five miles jfrom the pillars, I arrived at Bevio, a fmall village upon the Little Rhine, in the high road which leads to Coire. Every one being employed in hay-making, I could not gain admittance into the inn : fome friars, how-' ever, offered me their houfe and dinner, and prevented me from returning, as I had propofed^ to the cottage upon the Julian Alps. On queftioning thefe friars concerning the conflitution of the republic of Bevio ; they in- formed me, that Bevio and Valmorara form one community, goveyied by eleven magiftrates, though the number of voter:^ who appoint thefe magiftrates^ y £e vio* 191 ttiagiftratcs, fcarccly exceeds forty : the chief is called Minijlrale^ and is confirmed every year ; for which aft of politenefs, each voter annually receives a florin. About one-third of the mer- chandize from Como to Coire pafles by Bevio, but the greateft part is fent by Splugen. After dinner I returned over the Julian Alps to St* Morezzo. LETTER Ids LETTER 71. I ' 4 LETTER 71. Upper Engadind — Bever — Zutz—Scampf. m 911! Zutz, Auguft 2d. A HE ride frotn St. Morezzo to Zuts, through Celerina, Samada, Ponto, and Madur lein, IS extremely pleafant. Thefe villages lie chiefly upon the fides of the mountains, gently rifing above a plain, which in fome parts is a mile broad, in others fo narrow as to be entirely occupied by the river Inn. The valley is en- clofed on both fides by a chain of Alps, covered for a confiderable height with wood interfperfed with pafture, and their tops capped with fnow. The river, which in this part is free from cata- fafts, is joined by innumerable torrents, that rufh down the fides of the rocks, or burft from the ground. The Inn, during its progrefs in this part, is very unlike moft of the rivers which I traced in my former tour. Uhe Rhone, the Reufs, and the Upp£t Engadins. jqa the Aaf, for inftance, fall, near their fourcer, in a continual cataraft, over fragments of rock, and through the mofl wild and uninhabited trads of country; while this river direSs its courfe through a cultivated and populous dif. tritt, in an^ equable unbroken ftream. 'Ihe country is pijurefque, and its beauties are of a milder caft than are ufual in thefe Alpine re. gions. The burghs, or villages, are plealkntly dotted about the plain, at the'diftance of S a mile from each other. Each village contains about fifty or a hundred houfes, fianding clnti ^uous ; thefe habitations are of flone, plaftered andwhitewafhed; and are in fuch exceCt re conftrufted The fpint of neatnefs indeed is fo general m Upper Engadina, that T fcarcely ob! erved one bad houfe through the whole diftrift. a m::? 'K ''^^^ ^^^ " Sood as the cott^g s^ la many countries. ^ man of T! ''f""^ ^^""Sh Bever. the clergy, man of that place, who was fmokincr his pipe at »s door, flopped me with a complimert^and upon my entering into converfation with him nvued me to fee his library I alighted accord! "^gly, and looked over his colledion. He- SrRnmT/"r ^"S'''^ ''"°'^*' ^"d many in the KomanH^. anguage, particularly the * Bible pr nted at Coire, which is dedicated to Georg^ Ahou^ il\r^ '•, '^/"°'"Pa"y me a- little way. foZ\c ? /"''". ^'""^ ^^^"^ ^^ pointed out to me a f.ngle houfe called Alles Angnes, where • This Bible is the dialeft of the Grey League. 194 LETTER P ft I I the deputies of the two communities of Upper Engadina affemble for the purpofe of deciding, in the hft refort, appeals in civil caufes. A little further, he defired me to obferve a fmall fpring, which falls into the Iim a few paces from Its fource. It is called Fontana Merla, and would not, he added, be worthy of notice, if it did not feparate the two communities of Up- per Engadina. Soon afterwards I took leave of the clergyman, mounted my horfe, and pro- ceeded to Zutz. I pafTed the Inn feveral times, over bridges of fmgle arches, which have a very ttriking appearance. They are conftrufted by fchofars of the famous Grubenmari f. The roads over them are quite flat, the fide rail- ing is very high, and they are uncovered at top.. Zatz, aTthough not the largefl, is efteemed fhe principal place of Upper Engadina, becaufe it contains the criminal court of juflice. The Landamman of Sotto Fontana Merla, who al- ways prefides. in this court, is chofen every other turn from the family of Planta, eflablifhcd at Zutz : thi^ peculiar privilege, which gives to that family no Lnconfiderable influence in the political affairs of this country, was formerly granted by a bifhop of Coire, who was uncle to one of the Rantas. Upoit my arrival at Zutz, I waited upon Mr. Planta, formerly Envoy froni the Republic of the Grifons to that of Venice ; he was appointed to that embafly in order to renew the antient league which formerly fub- fifled between the two ftates, but which had * See Vol. I. Lett. %, been ^fptr Engadiria. ,^. been interrupted by the laft treaty oF 176^- between the Kmprefs of Germany and the Gnfons ; on which occafion the Venetians were fo much enraged, that they expelled the Grifons from th«r territories. This negociation, how ever, though conduded with great ability was .neff-eaual. Mr. Planta received me with 'r^a pol.tenefs and cordiality, and invited m? to fupper ; and as the evening was not fet in he aecompamed ine to what is called the camp pf Drufus, which I was defirous of examin^ You recollect the campaign which Drufii« the adopted fon^ of AuguL^ and broThef o^ t^ntsTr'h'?"'"^ °"- 'S^'"^ *^ ^^'^^ inhabi: tants of thefe mountainous countries j and which Horace, m compliment to his patron 11^^ luded to in the following paffages : Videre Rhati bellafuh Alpibus Drufum gerentem et Vindelicl ; and afterwards. -arces Alpibus impofitas tremendas Dejecit acer plus vicefimplici. was attended with great fuccefs, and he defeated conn ^^M°"'>'^''^'^^"^^' •'«f°^- deemed u„. coniS f c /"PPofed remains of his eamp earth K ^^"t!-^^ '^"^P f "^' ^»d * motind oV earth about thirty feet Sigh and fixty paces °a circumference. Thefe works did - not appear Z ^* me ■f' ^96 LETTER 71. me to be of Roman conftruftion ; probably they are nothing more than a rude fortification thrown up during the turbulent times, when the barons of the country were er^gaged in per- petual a£ts of hoftility : a defire to render them venerable by the remotenefs of their origin, and the fplendour of the Roman name, feeras the only caufe of their being attributed to Drufus. Having fatisfied my curiofity, I returned to Zutz, and paffed an agreeable evening vrith Mr. Planta. Scampf, Auguft 3d. The little burghs ii) thefe parts arc fituated at fuch a fmall diftance from each other, that my daily journies are fcarcely fo much as a morning's walk ; and I am fo delighted with the country and its inhabitants, that I couid willingly take up my abode here for fome time longer. Upon my arrival at Scampf, I carried a letter of recommendation to Mr. Perini ; who introduced me to Mr. Aporta, the clergyman of the place. He is a native of Lower Ehgadina, of the antient and illuftrious family of Aporta. He ftudfed * fome time at Deprezin, in Hun- gary ; but returning to his native country, was foon afterwards appointed paftor of Scampf* Hi& income is fmall, fcarcely amounting to ^ He received his education, I believe, in the Univerflty ofB«fl<. twenty Upper Engadina. igy twenty pounds f per annum, and yet his living is efteemed one of the beft in Engadina. With this moderate revenue he is able to maintain a wife and large family. His chief work, which is a fufficient proof of his extenfive knowledge, and indefatigable induftry, is the Hiftory of the Reformation among the Grifons, in two vo- lumes quarto. It is written in Latin, and com- piled with great impartiality and ex^ctnefs. The flyle is claffical and perfpicuous. This ex- cellent publication is not merely confined to ecclefiaftical tranfaftions ; for, as the affairs of religion are intimately blended with political events, the latter make no inconfiderable fio-ure /m every Hiflory of the Reformation. The reader will find in Mr. Aporta's performance a minute and faithful account of the animofities between France and Spain, in relation to the Grifons ; of the rebellion in the Valteline ; . of the maifacre of the Proteftants ; and of the fub- fequent war carried on under the feihblance of religion. This interefting narrative compre- hends almoft all the important events in the hiftory of the Grifons, from the beginning of the reformation to the peace of the Valteline. I look dp with reverence to this learned au- thor, for his unwearied induftry in completing fo laborious a work with little encouragement, and under all the difadvantages which arife from a difficulty of procuring books, and ftraitened circumftances. All that he ever obtained, be- t Confiderliig the different mo(5es of living, and "Vii?." LETTER Cemetz, Aaguft 4th. lerinf rn ff'^ ^^ Upper Engadina, from Ce- enna to a few m.les beyond Scampf, is nearly level; ,t ,s enclofed between two ridees of fr^H^'n"''.'"''' i 'r« ^'g'^^^ ^' Celerinl, and gradually dimmilh in height and ruggednefs Ind L *'^^''^.P^°'J"ce5 fo-ne rye and barley, and the mountains are clothed with verdure to nd::7nd"tr"^ t^""'' ^-Pf' ^he pLS^ SnH:^ • ^ '"[^' ^""' '^'^^"^^ had hitherto wmded m a gentle courfe, is contrafted into tararVh''""'!/ f^^^"^ '" continual ca- the f.; f^ u"^'* ^'^^"'^^ ''"^ «^efGends along he fides of the mountains ; and the countr? is^thckly overfpread with woods of fir anj Ipaffed ao4 LETTER 72. I pafled through feveral villages, fimilar to thofe I have defcribed in the preceding letter; and near Brail, I crcfTed a fmall bridge thrown over a precipice, and overlooking a foaming catariict. This bridge is called in the language of ihj country, pG7:t Alta, or High Bridge, and fcrmi; the feparation between Upper and Lower Engadina. Evttn if the limits of the tvi^o diftrifts bad not been thus marked out, the fud- den alteration of the road, for the worfe, would have led me to fufpeft that I had quitted Upper Engadina. The road from the lake of Siglio to Pont Alta is like our turnpikes in England, and fufliciently broad to contain two or three carriages abreaft ; no common circumftaiice in thefe mountainous regions. It has feeeii lately made, in confequence of a propofal from the Houfe of Auftria, at the late treaty of Milan, to improve the roiids leading through the Pre- galiit and the two Engadinas, in order that the mcichandize to and' from Pfcgaliij mi^t fee trai^jorred this way through tJie Tyrol^ in- fteadof being carried^ a*5 it is at prefent, thro' Goire. The Houfe of Auftria ofiered to defray the whole expenceof this undertaking. Themhk^ bitants of Upper EngadinS, although they de- clined, widi a: fpirit of difintereftednefs rarely' to be found in deniocratical itates, the ofier of indemnification, immediately carried' the plan into execution within their o\tn territories^,- biit the intrigues of the citizens of Coire, whofe in- lereft would^ have greatly fuffered by the new arrangement, together with an inveterate per- lnafion, that good roads would render the country too acceffibic to the neighbouring pow- er 5^ Cernetz. ^^ m, prevented the people of Pregalia and Louver Engadina from co-operating in this ufeful pro- jea ; accordmgly that part of this road, which gL'al ft/te"^ "^^' ^^""^^' ''"^^^ ^^^^^ -i- After crofiing Pont Alta, I paffed alonr^ ^ wild and almoft uninhabited traft of foreft until reached Cernetz, where I am now comfortabiv lodged in the houfe of Mr. I>lanta. That een tleman is at his government of Morbe;rno^ in ^e Valteline; but having accidentally ^e^m^ at Chiavenna, kmdly gave me a letter of re! commendation to his unc^e, who would not ner* rait me to continue at the inn. Cernetz is fituated in a fmall rich plain bounded by two ridges of mountains converdn<; at both extremities. This plain produces J3 »^arley, rye, flax, and abundance of -rich naf ture. I ftd an elTential difference between the climate of this little plain and that of Upper Engadina; it is much ivarmer, and has all its natural produSions much farther advanced to- ivards matunty Large- quantities of wood are died upon thefe mountains, and floated down the Inn as far as Infpruck. In this plain the Inn ^s joined by the large torrent Sp^, that de- fends from the mountains of Bormio. By the fide of this torrent, and at the extremity of a narrow pafs leading to Bormio and Munfter, I obferved a fquare tower, which, in 1624, thj Marquis de Ca^uvres garrifoned with a bJdy of ^ w ^^^ prifon troops, in order to check the The pafs IS ftill further fortified by a ftone wall earned from the foot of an inacceflible rock to the tower, and from thenpe to the torrent. The 2q6 LETTER 72, The Marquis de Cauvres, to whom the guard f ^'^""Po^ant pafs was committed, was fon of the Marquis d'Etrees ; he was bred up to the .hVi'l ;'»• "?^,> '^'^" ^'•°^he^' renounced the ecclefiaftical hne, and embraced the profef- fion of arms. He diftinguifhed himfelf'in fe- vera! campaigns under Henry the Fourth, and was afterwards employed in the reign af Lou"^ the Ihirteenth, a, embaOkdor to Turin and Kome. In 1624, he was appointed embaffador extraordinary to the Republic of the Grifons and commander in chief 'of art army, co " S anc!or,h ^"^.?-^»^-P^ fent to the affift. teuL M ^"^°"' f "i'^g '^' ^^' °f the Val- rnl",!;-n P"f 7?^^^, through Coire into Lower Engadma, and feizedi *'ithont delay, the im- portant pafs juft now defcribed; by this Z. nceuvre he fecured the only avenue by which tn7f vP? ^ P'^^S^ ^° 2°™5o, the reduc. tion of which place was followed by an almofl immediate fubmiffion of the Valteline. For mtn'Tfp'"' ^''"'"' '^^ M^''!"'*' °n his return to France, was created Due d'Etreesi and raifed to the higheft honours. He died?n »67o, in the lozd year of his age. mornri' -^"^ r^"'^ '^'' ^"^''^ P3« ^ this mornmg, ,n making extrafts from Campel's ac- count of the Grifons, elteemed the bett topogra. phical and political hiftory of this country yet extant. It confifts of three large folio volImS ^La ""'!?'" "^ ^"•"- It has never been printed, and is very rarely met *ith. 1 had the good forturie to find a copy in the library of Count Firmian, at Milan, who with that readi. nels to oblige, which peculiarly diftinguilhes hia chara£ler. Huldric Campel. 307 Charaaer, permitted me to confult it. My flay a Milan being very ftort, and employed in other refearches, I had nOt made fo good an ufe of this indulgence as I could have wiihed -and a I have now found the fame work in Mr Planta's library, I embrace this opportunity of perufing themoft interefting parts : it has gh-en me a great inf.ght into the geography, hilorv and governments of this country which J.' treated with the moft circumftantL'uc'S 1"' Huldric Campel, the author of this valuable t^ork was born, in the beginning of 1" eenth century, at Sufs, in^ Lowfr Engadi^r and niade a moft uncommon proficiefcTTn earlieft reformers in this coiintry, «nd became by his adive zeal, as well as by his eSve erudition, a great inftrument i/ fpreadSg the reformation through this diftrid. An evfnt of gave rife to the fuddeh and wide diffemination of the ivew doarines, and ended in the St «n of the Ronian Catholic religion. While he was abfent, in mit „nA„ tU a daughter, which was fo fickly and weak thll ?. "".'"^r T"" '^' P°^"' °f firing G,S Campel, father of Huldric, a mkn ftrongly ad! S K-u '^l '.1!''"^^ '^''^'^^' refufed fo^hav; the child chriftened by the Po^ift prieft ofl^e parUh nor would fuffer even the midwives ta ^ ^ '. "' ,^""^^'"K to the cuftom of X R^ mift church, with holy water; and, ^t^Tc vas no reformed minifter at hand, he performed he ceremonyof baptifm himfelf.' Thl ad wat looked upon in fo abominable a light b| tiS R^ 2oS I' E T T E R 72- tnan Catholics of Su6, that they alT^mbled in a tumultuous manner, and attacked Gafpar with fuch fury, that he narrowly efcaped affafSnation. H,s enemies then brought an accufation againft h>m before the diet, which at firft referred the caufe to arbitration ; but no fatisfaftory decifion being obtained from thi. mode of proceeding, a public conference was ordered to ^e held in the church of Suis, before deputies fVom the fe e! Whether, if a child is born and likely to die iormed by a layman was preferable to that bv midwives ? - This ridiculbus inquiry led to difcuflions of gi^at moment. The reformed minifters refufed to acknowie ge any authority but that of the Holy Scriptures, while the Catholics confidered the writings of the fathers and decrees of the church as infallible : each party, thus regarding every point through a medium^ could niver be prevailed on to adopt the arguments of its an-' tagonift ; and the difpute lafted feven davs with httle profped of any fatisfactory conclunon fZ'^T'l' K°""!.7V^ '"y"^'" o/accommod": tion, which this endlefs mode of reafonine could IZ"aT\^'^^^^^ ^^"'''^'' ^^' fummarilyat- tamed by the moderation of the deputies. They decided, that in cafes of extreme neceflit? the nndwives might baptize, and that the for- T^Z""' P'^^^'b'^to the latter : but what xvas ot the greateft confequence, they inculcated this rational pofition, that in regard to the other controverted points of faith debated in the courii of the argument, every perfon midn fafely Hu/c/ric Campel. ^ fafely hold that doftrine whirh f.^rr. c u ■ viaion he was perfuSl /r. k T ^''" ''°"- God. peiiuaded to be the word of ben?ficiaretS" frth^ '"^'^ °1 '^^ "^^^ thither in great n„mh ^'''P'^' ^'^'^ ^'"'^'^'^'^ in contJ^verS o '£? The ! °1' '""'Y'^y >nax-i,n is obvious nT'c> T 'f ''^"'^ ^^ ^^'^ mediate and rapid ■effJasJht'^'lr' [""'^r '"" of twentv years the R.f^'r • ^"'"" '^^ 'P^^^ S;t r ' th'et '"' .'"^ ''-^' '^'l^nfX nfoLi ! ^"T '^o<^"nes. Having entered into holy orders, he undertook the car! of a r! formed church in the valley of PretSIu Ih duty"! "^'^^^'^ ^" '^'^ P-^™- otS it o; ?n P'"°P^g^^'°» °f the Proteftant re a\um^ou':^;,t^7c;:te5;: ^^^"'"^"'^' ^^^^ wh": Kaf J"""%°^ ''^ "^-^^ Schlins, ne ^.as paftor, and perfeyered to the laft Vol ir. Excepting the fmall vilkge of SamuD. period """•>• aio LETTER 72. petlod of his exiftence in diffeminating and de- fending the dodrine of the reformed churches, as ably with his eloquence, as he recommended rhem by his example. Amidft the occupation of religious duties, he found Icifure to continue his hiflory of the Grifons to 1580. He died the following * year, at Schlins, in an extreme old age, leaving a name highly refpedable in tht- religious and literary annals of this country. The hiflory of Campel confills, as I have be- fore oblWved, of three volumes. The firll dwells chiedy on the topography of the Grifons, and delcribes the different diftrifts and towns : ft likewife delineates the nature of the feveral .governments, and the various forms of civil and criminal jurifprudence in the petty republics into which this country is fubdivided. The fecond volume comprizes the hiftory of Rhsetia, from the earliefl: period to the Suabian war, in 1499, under the emperor Maximilian I. The mate- rials are chiefly drawn from Tfchudi, Stumpf, and other Swifs hiftorians. The third volume, in which the hiftory is brought down to his own times, is the moft interesting and authentic. Campel having fubmitted his work to the exa- mination and corredion of Bullinger and Sim- ler, prefented, in 1577, a copy to the diet of rhe three^ leagues, and received public thanks. But as his own fortune was inadequate to the expences of publication, and as no bookfeller would undertake to print fo voluminous a work, it has never been pubiiilied. * Sonic authors pkce his death In^ijSz. Remus, Lower Engadtna. 211 Remus, Augu/I 4th. The road from Cernetz to Scuol is a confl mial afcent and defcent, and fo rockt.n/? " that I employed above ei^ht hours in •.^' only twenty m'iles. The fm'al £^0^0:;'"! beneat the ruins of In old Ai:' cbfj to t fh." M r''/^"' ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ably diverged the wildnefs of the rocks and forefts. Tnn v'k '^ '^'^''^ ^^"^^^ fhe courfe of the Inn, which murmurs below in a deep narrow channel, heard but not feen Frnm a a croned, and mounted a rapid afrpnr i^., • »" my righ, hand ,he .alK „f s L S ' if »h.ch ,he« are lii.er mine, belon„h« „ 11 rich, and yielded a confiderable advantai, h,,, are now exhaujed. I paW .hroXhf W p^"pi t^'Lt^ ^it\i^ ^^ From 211 LETTER 72 From Trafp, I again defcended to the river, crofled it, and afcended to Scuol. I arrived there very late, and let off early this morning. From Scuol to Remus, the mountains on the left flope gradually, and are richly cultivated : they produce great quantities of wheat, rye, bar- ley, flax, and hemp : the trees are chiefly pines, firs, and fmall birch, intermixed with under- wood of nut-trees and wild rofes. The corn- fields are raifed in gradations (if I may fo ex- prefs myfelf ) along the fides of the hill, like the vineyards in the Pays de Vaud. The ridges of mountains on the right beyond the Inn are fteep,' and in many places perpendicular, with few appearances of vegetation. It is now harveft time : I have obferved fe- veral clergymen employed in reaping the corn. The clergy are very poor in Lower Engadina, and are more numerous than in any other part of the Grifons. The income of the richefl: be- nefices amounts to about twenty pounds per an- num ; that of the inferior cures to little more than eight pounds ; and this fcanty pittance is fometimes fubdivided among two or three cler- gymen, or as manv as happen to be unprovided for in the fame parifli. I Hopped at Remus to bait my horfes. Near It is a ruined caftle which formerly belonged to the bifhop of Coire, and was given by one of the former bifliops to the Plantas of Zutz ; in right of which donation, they claim the privi- lege of adminiftering the oath to the Landam- man of Sotro Tafna. The only remains of this caftle are two fquare towers, in one of which is a miferable apartment, where Mr. Planta gives an annual dinner to the Landamman. The Lower Engadina. 21 r ^ The form of government in Lower Engadina IS more complicated than that of Upper Enga- dma, and it has coft me no fmall degree of pains to comprehend and unfold it. I ihall not however, trouble you with a circumftantial account of every particular which ftruck me in the courfe of this inveftigation, but fhall com- prize my account in as fliort a compafs as pof- iible. ^ Lower Engadina is divided into three com- munities, which fend three deputies to the gene- ral diet. The firft community is compofed of the panflies of Cernetz, Sufs, Lavin, Guarda, •and Ardetz. The fecond comprizes Vettan Scuol, and Sent : and the third contains Remus! bchhns, and Samun. The two former commu- nities make one iiigh Jurifdiftion; and the third forms, with Bevio, Valmorara, and Avers another High Jurifdidion. ' ^ In civil caufes there are two feparate courts of juftice, one for that part of the country which iies to the north, the other for the diftrid to the louth of the torrent Tafna ; from which torrent the two parts are called Sopra and Sotto Tafna • ironi each of thefe courts there lies an appeal m the laft refort, to the civil tribunal of Sotto l-ontana Merla, in Upper Engadina, or to the neighbouring community of the valley of Mun- ^ In criminal caufes there are likewlfe two dif. tmft courts, but without appeal, one for the trad to the north of the mountain Falon, ano- ther for the region to the fouth : according to this divifion the two parts are denominated oopra and Sotto Montfalon. By i 214 LETTER 72, By this complicated arrangement Vettan is conneded with Scuol and Sent, in political con- cerns ; in civil affairs with Scuol, Sent, Remus, Schlins, and Samun ; in criminal caufes with Cernetz, a|id the other towns of the firlt com- munity. This intermixture of various interefts creates fuch an intricacy in the eledion of depu- ties, magiftrates, judges, both civil and crimi- nal, as would he uninterefting for me to detail, or for you to read. One circumiUnce, however, cannot fail to ftrike the moft inattentive inquirer; that al- though the mode of eleding the judges is nearly the fame with that of Upper Engadina, yet that juflice is by no means lo impartially adminif- tered as in the latter diftria. I cannot forbear afcribiilg this material difference in an aflair of fuch importance to the different condition of the two people ; the inhabitants of Upper Engadina, being more enlightened and affluent than their neighbours, are lefs open to the influence of illiberal prejudices and petty corruption. Party runs very high both in Upper and Lower Engadina : there are fome confiderable families in theie diflrids, of which the principal are thofe of Delalis and Planta, both fubdivided into numerous collateral branches. The hiftory of this country is full of the difputes and flruggles between thefe rival houfes, and pre- fents in many periods little more than an uni- form picture of domeflic feuds. 1 he two par- ties are dillinguifhed by the appellations of Scar^ bonada^ black; and Mba^ white; the former devoted to the Plantas, the latter to the De- falifes. At the time of eledions for deputies and magiflrates, L ower Engadina. 21c magiftrates the inhabitants of Lower Engadina feldom abftam from blo^vs, which not unfre- quently termmate in bloodfhed. ' ^ I have more than once had occafion to men- tion the fuperiority of politenefs, which diftin- guifhes the inhabitants of Upper i ng^dina from thofe of the lower didrid. This pre-eminence probably arifes from the conftant emigration of the former into other countries, and their inter- courfe with foreigners. I find alfo a great dif. lerence in the comforts of file in the two dif- trids. Although Lower Engadina produces ne- ceffanes abundantly fufEcient for interior con- lumption, yet the inhabitants are lefs induflri- ous, and confequently poorer. In Upper En^a- dma, I was always able to procure at the com- moneft inns frefh meat, good oil, and excellent - wine none of which 1 could obtain in the lower diltrict. The villages are lefs commodious, and the houfes of the peafants are alfo far inferior in cleaniineis, neatnefs, and convenience. This difference probably proceeds, in a certain de- gree, from the nature of the country: Upper Engadina yielding but few producHons, the in- habitants are obliged to feek from without fbme ^eans of fubfi (fence ; and induftry once excited brings with it its ufual companion opulence! On the contrary the foil of Lower Engadina, fertile m all the fruits of the earth, lays the in! Habitants under no necefTity of extraordinary exertion, nor obliges them to have recourfe to foreign trade. Santa 2l6 LETTER 72, Santa Maria, Augufl 5th. In my way from Remus to St. Martin's- bridge, b^ing overtaken by a violent florm of rain, I took ihelter in a cottage ; and was cheer- fully received by a well-looking old woman ; my horfe was put under a fhed, and myfelf houied from the pelting of the fliowen I found the houfe perfedly neat and clean, with much bet- ter furniture and accommodations than 1 ex^ peded from the external appearance. The old woman talked, I found, (befide the Romanfli) German and Italian, and the latter remarkably well. The florm continuing two hours without intermilfion, I held a long converfation with her, and was greatly pleafed with the polite and ready manner with which fhe expreffed herfelf upon different topics. Upon taking leave, I made feveral apologies for having dirtied her houfe, thanked her for her kind reception, and endeavouring to flip a piece of money into her hand, was furprized at her declining to accept All thefe circumftances inciting my curiofity to obtain fome intelligence concerning this old woman, 1 collefted the following account. She is a native of Lower Engadina, of a good fa- mily, and formerly poflefTed a tolerable fortune : (he married, when very young, a nobleman of the firft family at Milan, who came into En- gadina, renounced the Roman Catholic religion, and embraced the Proteftant do^rines. Ihey lived for many years in the greateft harmony, till having diilipated almoft all her fortune, he one day took leave of her, with a promife of returning < Lower Engadina. 2 1 7 returning in a fhort time. From that moment ihe never faw him, nor heard from him, and Ihe was afterwards informed that he was gone to Italy, and, having re-embiaced the Roman Ca- thohc religion, had turned monk : upon receiv- mg this information, his wife collefted the fcanty remains of her fortune, and retired to the fpot where I found her. Towards the extremity of Lower Engadina, I croffed the Inn over St. Martin's-bridge, at a little village of the fame name : on the oth-r fide I came into Tyrol, where that river rtruggics through a very narrow channel, between two ridges of high and rugged rocks. I now took a farewel of the Inn, which I had accompanied from its fource. At St. Martin's-bridge it forms the feparation of Engadina and the Tyrol ; on receiving the torrent Schargenbach, it quits the t(rritory of the Grifons, and paffing through the T yrol and the Electorate of Bavaria, joins the Danube at Paffau with fo large a body of water, as to equal, if not furpaf^ the celebrated river in which it lofes its name^ Hence Scheutzcr has laboured to prove, that the Danube may be laid to rife in the Rhetian Alps with more juft- nefs than in the mountains of Suabia, becaufe the proportion of waters, which defcend from the former, is greater than what is fupplied from the latter. In the village of St. Martin, Romanfh is Ipoken; on the other fide of the bridge juft mentioned, German is the language of the country. From the fteep banks of the Inn, I afcended a high mountain, along an excellent road, lately formed at the expence of the em- peror, m order to facilitate the communication between 2l8 LETTER 72. between Milan and the Tyrol. From the top, i had a fine view of the Inn and Lower Engadina, and then defcended to Nauders, where 1 dined upon a cold fowl, which Mr. Planta had or- dered my fervant to put up for me, without which precaution I fhould have made but an un- comfortable meal. From Nauders, I went along a fmall pleafant valley, bounded on the left by a ridge of moun- tams which feparate the Tyrol from Engadina. The valley is about a quarter of a mile broad, and alniofl: level: it is covered with rich pafture, and watered by a lively torrent that falls into the Inn : at the end of this valley 1 came to ^ gentle afcent, on the other fide of which I found a lake, which is one of the firft fources of the Adige; beyond this is another lake, and further on a third : the banks of thefe lakes are prettily Ikirted with villages, at one of whic#, called Hotat,. I pafled the night. Haying a long day's journey from thence to Bormio, I let out at five this morning, and pro- ceeded by the fide of the torrent which flows fiom the lakes and forms the Adige. The country Js agreeable, and in high cultivation, efpecially where it opens into a rich and exten- five view beyond Mais, which town I pafTed at a little diftance on my left hand, and turned fliort into the road that leads to the valley of Munfler. At the bottom of the firft afcent I went through Laitch, which is fubjed in fpiri- tual affairs to the bifhop of Coire, in temporal to the Houfe of Aullria. From thence I mount- ed through a rich riling valley to Santa Maria. Tauven is the laft village in the Tyrol, where the inhabitants fpeak German. A little beyond that Lczvcr Engadiha, 21^ that place I pafTed the barrier, and again entered .the territory .of the Grifons, where the Romanfli is the common tongue. I flopped at Munfler, in order to fee a mo- nailery for women, from * which the name of the town and valley is derived. It h very an. tient, and faid to have been founded by Char- lemagne : I was not, however, permitted to ex- amine it, as it is againfl the rules of all nun- neries to admit a male vifitant within the walls. I proceeded to Santa Maria, from whence I am now writing. This valley of Munfler contains Santa Maria, Munfler, Valdera, Cierfs, and feveral other vil- lages, which form a community in the league of God's Houfe. Formerly the bilhop of Coire had confiderable influence and power in the go- vernment of the va ley. Juflice was adminif. tered in his name, and he received the amerce- ments for criminal offences ; but having violent difputes with the inhabitants, he fold thefe rights in 1727, to the emperor Charles the Sixth: the republic of the Grifons, however, objeaing to this transfer of immunities, which they confidered as unalienable, "the bifhop was obliged to re-purchafe, and difpofe of them to the inhabitants, who are now perfeclly indepen- dent. The people are divided into Catholics and Protedants, the former inhabiting the town of Munfler, with its immediate dependencies, the others the remainder of the valley : the ma* giflrates and judges are chofen equally from both parties, who live together in tolerable har- * Monafterium. mony. 220 LETTER 72. mony. The common language is the Romanffi. the fame as is fpoken in Lower Engadina though not quite fo pure, as, on accounfof its proximity and connedion with the Tyrol, it is blended with a greater number of German words. Pajage of Mount Bralio. 221 LETTER 7Z' LETTER Pafage of Mount Br alio —County and Town of Bormio. Bormio, Auguft 7th. A H E paffage from Santa Maria to this place was very tedious, and would have been at- tended with fome danger, if I had been detained a day later ; as the great quantity of rain, which has poured down without intermiffion, would have rendered the Alpine paths extremely flip, pery. I continued to afcend two hours from Santa Maria to the top of Mount Bralio, which feparates the valley of Munfter from the county of Bormio. This body of Alps is fuppofed to be the fame which Tacitus mentions under the name of Juga Rhatica *. J afcended the whole way by the fide of the torreik Ramo, the fame • Hift. lib. i. which 222 LETTER 73' which flows by Laitch, and falls into the Adige* below Mais. I traced it to its fource, where it rufhes from a Glacier, amidft an enclofure of furrounding rocks. A few paces further, hav- ing reached the fummit of the Bralio, I obferved another torrent fall from the fame Glacier in a contrary direction, which forms the firfl: fource of the .Adda. From this point a defcent commences, and continues, with little interruption, to Bormio. The tops of thefe mountains produce no wood, but yield excellent pafture; they were covered with^ cattle. The mofl elevated parts are of granite, but not near fo fine grained as that which I obferved upon the Si. Gothard, and fome of the other Swifs Alps. I then went down a very narrow rugved path, and in an hour entered the county of Bormio, and a fmall plain about a mile in length, in the midfl of which is a fingle houfe, that is termed an inn ; and which is the firft habitation I met with fince I quitted the valley of Munfler. I found no one within but a woman and two children, who fpake a corrupt Italian : the woman was greatly affronted on my inquiring if fhe talked Ro- manfti ; being a Roman Catholic, fhe feemed to confider it as a kind of herefy to underftand that language. I ft>llowed the courfe of the Adda, which flows through the plain ; it is at firfl a fmall tor- rent, but gradually increafes, by a continued accefTion of water from the neighbouring moun- tains. At the end of this fmall plain, the de- * Or rather two torrents form by their jundlon the , Adigc. •* fcenf Pajfage of Mount Bralio. 223 fcent recommences, and the track from thence to Bormio, is as craggy as the highefl parts of Switzerland. Since I have travelled in the country of the Grifons, I have not yet met with fuch aflonifhing fcenes of wildnefs, horror, and majefty, as occurred in this day's journey. De- fcription generally fails in reprefenting the moft ordinary exhibitions of nature ; how inadequate then mufl it be to the fingular combination of fublime objefts, which I fhall now attempt to delineate ? I had no fooner quitted the fmall plain above- mentioned, than 1 entered fuddenly into a moft barren and defolate region ; on my right hand, huge piles of misfhapen Alps; on my left, a large mafs of ice and fnow. Clofe to the path the Adda foams from precipice to precipice in broJven catarads ; lower down it fhoots over a fuccefTion of natural fleps, which feem as if they had been hewn in the rock by art ; at the dif. tance of about a mile, it is contraded into a narrow channel, through which it labours with inceffant furp. Over this tremendous gulf is a flight wooden bridge, which is partly fupported upon a detached fragment of rock, and partly fufpended upon the fides of the oppofite moun- tains: as we pafTed over, it tottered with our weight. I then continued upon the edge of a deep abyfs, the Adda roaring beneath, though no where vifible, fuggefting to my imagination catarafts more ftupendous than any I had hi- therto feen. Its channel is cut perpendicularly in the rock, which has evidently been hollowed to the depth of fome hundred feet by the attri* tion of the waters. We ', ■i • . % 224 LETTER 73' k .. We now arrived at a barren fpot, where the vale was entirely clofed by an impafTable moun- tain: a ftream burfts from a fmall opening in the rock, and then expanding as it falls, forms a confiderable torrent, foaming amidft vaft frag- ments of ftone. We turned fuudenly to the left, by an opening through which the Adda feems to have forced a paffage, and difcovered fome fertile fields lying upon the fide of a dif- tant mountain, which beautifully contrafted with the wild and uncultivated fcenes we had juft quitted : a few paces further, we came upon the profpea of a fertile plain extending to Bor- mio, the Adda flowing in a milder ftream, which a moment before roared underneath our feet, over broken precipices. In about half an hour I reached the baths of St. Martin, in the valley of Premaglia ; they are formed by feveral hot fprlngs which rife near Molina, and are much frequented at this feafon of the rear. They are of the fame nature with thofe of Bath, but they did not appear fo hot. From thence I defcended into the plain, which produces fome corn, and yields excellent pafture, and in a fhort time arrived at Bormio. Every thing now wears an Italian look : the vil- lages are very inferior to thofe in the Grifons. The houfes are plaftered, and have a dirty ap- pearance; and it was no bad remark of my fervant, that the villages looked as if the inha- bitants were moftly dead, and the place de- ferted. This road over the Bralio, although fo indif- ferent, was formerly the principal paffage for the merchandize fent from the Tyrol, through I the % :ai ii g"T; : .- : the Valteline, into the Milanefe :. at prefent it is much lefs frequented, >», ' The county of Bormio, fubjeS:" to the Gri- fons, lies at the foot and in the midft of the Rhetian Alps, and borders upon Engadina, the valley of Munfter, the Valteline, Tyrol, Trent, ■and the Venetian territories. It is entirely en- clofed within the mountains, except a narrow opening, which connefts it with the. Valteline : the other acceffes to it lie acrofs the rugged Alps, and are fimiiar to the paffage over the Bralio: in winter they are frequently impaf. fable. This county, once a part of the Milanefe, be- came fubjea to the Grifons in 1512 : the con- currence of extraordinary circumftances, which occafioned this revolution, will be related in the following letter, upon the hiflory of the Valte- line; for, as the latter came under the domi- nion of the Grifons at the fame period, and from the fame caufes, the two hiftories are fo mtimately blended, that they cannot be fepa- rated. The county is divided into five diflrids, i! Bormio, which comprizes the capital, and feve- ral dependent villages. 2. The valley of Furba. 3. The valley of Pedinofa. 4. The valley of Cepma. 5. The valley of Luvino. The inha- bitants of the Luvino poffefs feveral privileges, particularly the power of judging civil caufes within a certain value. They do not, however, appoint any of the magiflrates, who are all chofen from the four other diftrids. ^ 1 he county of Bormio enjoys verv ample immunities, fome of which are not extended to the Valteline, or Chiavenna ; in virtue of which. Vol. IL q ^^e 226 L E T T E R 73- the Inhabitants ^re exempted from the oppreP fions fo wantonly exerclfed by the Grifon go- vernors in the other fubjea countries. 1. The inhabitants pay a fixed contribution to the Grifons, which is very moderate, and cannot be increafed. 2. They collea and enjoy their own duties upon exports and imports, which fecures them from injudicious and oppref- five taxes. 3. The fines for criminal offences belon^r to the community ; a circumftance very friendly to the adminidration of juftice : for no part of them being afligned to the governor, as is the caie in the other fubjeft provinces, he is not interefted to convia criminals. 4. But the principal privilege which diftinguiflies this coun- try from the Valteline, is the freedom of its go- vernment, and the limitation of the podefta's authotitv. Bormio, like all the other fubjeft countries, is goveined by a fupreme magiltrate called Po" dejla^ who is fent from the Grifons, and conti- nues two years in office : his authority is fo ex- ceedingly circumfcribed, that he enjoys fcarcely any power, but with the concurrence of the councils. He prefides in thefe councils without giving a vote, except in cafe of equality ; he has neither the power of arrefting a criminal, nor oi pardoning or leffening the punifhment : and he receives a yearly ftipend from the country of about eighty pounds, arifing partly from a pay- ment in money, partly from an allowance of rye, and partly from the colls of fuit in civil and criminal caufes : but the reftriclions laid on his authority will bed appear from the following Ihort ilietch of the eftablifhed govern- . Thr Bormio. 227 The fupreme authority refides in the podcfta and Gouncils, which confift in a civil and crimi- nal tribunal, whofe members are annually chofen by the people. The criminal court, or the council of Six- teen, who are changed every four months, is compofcd of two regents, the treafurer, the no- tary, and fixteen counfellors, ten of whom are taken from the town, and two from each of the vallies of Furba, Pedinofa, and Cepino : of thefe members only the fixteen counfellors have any vote. At the requeft of the two regents, this council is convened by the podefta. In order to arrefl: a criminal, the whole council ought to affemble, or at leaft feven of the mem- bers ; but in any cafe of importance, the po- defta and two regents may give an order of arreft; this, however, being contrary to law, muft be referred to the firft meeting of the council, which, if fatisfied, decrees in the words of their code, Male captus ; bene detenius ; the arreft was illegal, but expedient. The procefs is formed, and the prifoner examined by the podefta and -two regents, viio lay the proceed- ings before the council. If the criminal is con- vlded, and will not confefs his crime, the ma- jority of the council decide whether the proofs are ftrong enough to juftify torture : if that hor- rid expedient is deemed requifite, it muft be applied in the prefence of the podefta, the two regents, the treafurer, and notary. ^ The fines are paid to the community, which (if the prifoner is infolvent) defrays the ex- pence of the procefs. If the proofs againft the prifoner appear infufficient for his conviftion, the podefta and counfellors receive nothing for Q 2 thdr 4 228 L E T T E R 73- their attendance: this regulation, which was defigned to prevent frivolous profecations, is productive of this ill etFea, that it induces the judges to Itrain the flighted circumftances into proofs of guilt, and not unfrequently occafions the inflidion of torture *. The civil tribunal confifts of twelve members, taken from the town of Bormio, who determine all civil caufes in the firft iuftance : froni their decifion there lies an appeal to the fyndicate of the Grifons. The members of thefe councils are chofen an- nually in the following manner, by the aflembly of the people, confiding of, i. All thofe who have been magidrates ; 2. Of fixty perfons from the town, nominated by the two chiefs of the people ; 3. Of fixty perfons chofen equally by the three vallies ; 4. Of three deputies from the valley of Luvino. All thefe reprefentatives aflemble on the 15th of June, in the tow^n-hall of Bormio : the eledion is carried on in the mod democratical manner, upon a plan calcu- lated to prevent all influence ; which, however, can never be entirely excluded by the mod com- plicated mode of eleftion ever invented. With- out enlarging upon the form of voting by ballot ufed at Bormio, I ftiall, on account of its fingu- Tarity, only briefly defcribe the ceremony of choofmg the two regents. After the nomination of the counfellors, the regent lad in office points to fome perfon in the aflembly. At the fame * Little more is wanting to the reformation of criminal jurifprudence in Bormio, than to render the examinations public ; to pay the judges for their attendance, whether the prifoncr is innocent or guilty ; and to abolifh torture. inftant Bormio, 229 indant the treafurer mentions fome number, as for indance, ten, fifteen, &c. This number is immediately counted by the regent, beginning from the perfon to whom he is pointing: the lad fix of the perfons counted retire into a fepa- rate room, and chufe fix members of the aflTeiii- bly, namely, three from the didrid of Bormio, and three from the vallies, who appoint fix can- didates. The names of the latter are thrown into fix bags, and balloted for; and the two, who have the greated number of ballots, are re- gents. They remain in office only four months, in order to prevent their abufing their power, which is very great. The expences of government are regulated with a democratical jealoufy ; and the accounts are annually fubmitted to the infpeftion of each didridl, in the following manner : When the regents retire from office, the treafurer delivers in a fummary of the expences and receipts in- curred during their adminidration, which is read to the council of Sixteen, and cannot pafs without their approbation. In Odober, the council elefts three examiners, two of whom are always taken from the inhabitants of the town, and one reciprocally from each of the three val- lies. Thefe examiners make a report, which is laid before a deputation from the town and the vallies, on the third of May, and five copies are didributed to the feveral deputies, for the infpection of their refpedive condituents : ladly, 'the report is read before the aflfembly of repre- fentatives, who meet for the election of the ma- gidrates, when it is either finally approved or rejefted. The 230 LETTER 73. The revenue of the country of Bormio, however trifling, is nearly adequate to the cur- rent expences. It arifes in the following man- ner: Duty upon merchandize, which this year amounted to - - - - Lening of the paflure upon the Alps of Fre- deriga, Gallo, and Bralio, For liberty of cutting wood. Profits arifing from the falc of the corn granted by the gcJvernment of Milan, Rent of the baths, - - - Fines, upon an average, - ** Tithes of corn produced, - £' s. ^. 20 5 SO '3 4 6 *3 4 25 13 4 6 8 H 103 12 222 H 4 The following is a Table of the average Expences: "For making and repairing roads and bridges, Salary of the magiftrates, Salary of the podefta and fyndicate. £' i. //. 83 6 8 71 8 57 7 6 212 2 2 In this calculation a few occafional expences are omitted, which render the general outgoings greater than the 1 eceipts : the overplus is fup- plied by equal afleliments. For the purpofe of afTtffing, there is a perpetual committee, con- fifting of twelve members chofen from the town, and two from each valley, wliich is convoked by the regents. The fum required being laid before < • before tk^m, they fix a quota according to a cal- culation of property. The mountainous part5 of this country pro- duce only pafturage; and wood : the lower di- flrift about Bormio yields corn, but not fuiE^ cient for domellic confumption. The inhabi- tants export cattle, a fojall quantity of cheefe, and iron : the latter is obtained from the min^ of Freii, in the valley of Pedinofo, worked at the expence, and for the profit, of a private perfon, who pays to the community a fraall an- nual rent. Wine is imported from the Vake- line, corn from the Tyrol, corn and rice from Milan, linen from Bergamo and Appenzel, and cloth from Germany. Popery is the eftabliftied religion of this country,, and the exercife of every other wor^ Oiip is prohibited : even the podefta himfdf, if a Proteftant, is not entitled to any indul- gence in this particular *. Spiritual affiairs are under the jurifdlclion of the bifliop of Coire^ who ha3 a vkar^s court at Born^iio, in which all ecclefiaflical caufes are tried. The priefts have peculiar privileges, whic^ are even extended to thofe who wear a clerical drefs. Although many abufes refult from thofe exorbitant immunities, yet, from the nature of the government, they are more reftrained here than In the Valteline. * For the caufes of this prohibition, which takes place in all the provinces fubjeft to the Grifons, fee the next l«t- ter. Moft 232 L E T T E R 73- Moft of the peafants poffefs a fmall por- tion of land, and, in confequence of the freedom of the government, are much happier than the people of the Valteline and Chia- venna. The town of Bormio is not unplealantly fituated, at the foot of the mountains, dole to the torrent Fredolfo, which falls at a fmall diftance into the Adda. It contains about a thoufand inhabitants, but has a defolate appearance. The houfes are of ftone plaf- tered : a few make a tolerable figure amidft many with paper windows; feveral, like the Italian cottages,' have only wooden window fhutters. This fafhion may not be uncom- fortable in the mild climate of Italy, but can- not be very agreeable in this country, fub- iea to fudden changes of weather, and occa- iionally cold even in the midft of fummer, when the bleak .winds blow keenly from the Alps. The landlord of the inn, in which I am lodged, is one of the regents, and is, I find, a man of great confequence. I fit down to table with him, the podefta, and his wife. The podefta has been lately appointed to this government, and I can colleft, from the con- verfation which has pafl'ed, that he is per- feaiy ignorant of the laws and conftitution of this country; in alf my queftions he refers me to my landlord, who is thoroughly ac- quainted with the theory and pradice of the courts of juftice, and well verfed in the moft minute circumftances, relative to the admini- ftration of affairs. It Bormio* ^33 It has rained all day without intermifiion, iand the ftiowers in thefe Alpine countries pour down with fuch uncommon violence, that 1 efteem myfelf very fortunate in being well flieltered. The bad weather, however, did not prevent me from feeing every thin| which is worthy of attention in Bornno, and in paying feveral vifits to the principa fami- lies of the town, who confider an Engliftiman in this country, as a kind of phenomenon, and ftiewed me every attention and civility m their power. ' - ^ ^ The Palazzo, or town-houfe, , contains a fuite of wretched apartments for the refidence of the podefta, a chamber for the courts of iudicacuve, and an apartment where the repre- fcntatives of the people a ftemble. In one of the rooms is an engine ol torture, which, m. defiance of common fenfe, as well as huma. nity, is ftiH ufed in thefe. countries to iorce confeflion. ^ ' , ^ i • « t Being defirous of feeing the archives, I found it occafioned more trouble than I at firft apprehended. The door of the apart- ment, in which they are depofited, has fe- veral locks ; and it was neceflary for all the magiftrates, who are entrufted with the dit- ferent keys, to be prefent at the fame time: no obi^dion, however, was made to my ad- miflion, and all parties affembled upon thig occafion. The archives, which are in the fvreateft diforder, contain many records reia- tive to the hiftory and conftitution of Bormio the criminal and civil ftatutes, and feveral charters % 234 L E T T E R 73- charters from the fovereigns of Milan, con- firming original P"vileges, . and adding others^ The earlieft of thefc afts is dated 1378, and fiened by John Galeazzo Vifconti. ^ ^The moft important of the papers is the charter, by ^»'hich the Grifons confirm, 10 the moft an^ple manner the [-mumties grant^ to this country by the dukes of Milan . r L paired in [he diet of llantz, under Paul, bilhop of Coire, in 1513. the year fuble- fluent to that in which the Grifons annexed ^ormio to their dominions Many circum- ftances have concurred to deter the Grifons from infringing this charter : the two principal caufes are,' the fituation of Bormio, and the fpirit of freedom which diftmgmlhes the in- habitants. By its fituation upon the confines of thfe Tyrol, the people, m cafe of the lealt difcontent, would receive encouragement and affiftance from the Houfe of Aultr a. Ihis lo al advantage procured them while under tie government of Milan, much better treat- ment than was experienced by their neigh- Tours in the Valtelhie ; and a Jnuiar realon ftiU continues to operate upon the conduct ot %heV!(t of freedom alfo, which pervades the conltitution, has no lefs niateria^^ con- tributed to the fecurity of their P"vileges thefe people have always watched with a jea- ous eye, the flighteft advances of encroach- ment r and have^ never failed to remonftrate S great unanimity and refolution, whenever h iSdefta has diicovered the leaft inclina- ion to exceed the bounds of his authorUy- Bormio* ^35. Hence the Grifons have uniformly aded to wards them with great ^'^^^^''1^\^f ,^^1 ever paid the readieft attention to their reprc. fentations and remonftrances. LETT £11 236 LETTER 74- LETTER 74' Tirano— Sketch of the Hijiory of the Valtel'me. Tirano. I M. QUITTED Bormio this morning about ten. The torrents arc confiderably fwelled with the late rains; and the fides of the neighbouring mountains are fprinkled with yefterday's fiiow. From Bormio, I paffed along the narrow valley of Cepino, through feveral wretched villages, among which not the leaft wretched is Cepino itfelf, confining of a few ftraggling cottages, many of which are in a ruinous fiate. Having croffed the Adda, and continued on the left (hore of that torrent, which dalhes with great violence through a rocky country, in three hours I came to a pafs called La Serra, where almoft the whole fpace between the impending rocks, excepting a fmall path, is occupied by the Adda. The path runs under the gateway ot an an- cient tower, and leads from the county of Bor- mio ValteWne. 237 mio into the Valtelinc. At Sondalo, which . ftands on the banks of the river upon an emi- nence, under a richly cultivated mountain, the valley widens, and becomes more and more fer- tile : in fome places it is about a mile, in others fcarcelv a hundred yards in breadth. Near li- rano the valley exhibits an appearance of extra- ordinary fertility. The left ridge of mountain* is chiefly overfpread with hanging groves of chefnut trees, intermixed with a few vines; above them are meadows and forefts of fir. 1 he ridge fronting the fouthern fun is richly covered with vines, which reach almolt to the fummit, ftudded occafionally with clufters of large trees : on both fides churches and houfes half concealed Z the foliage enliven the profped. Below run* Se Adda. The plain on each fide of us banks produces abundance of corn and pafture, mul- berries, walnuts, and other fruit-trees, and vines carried over the corn and pafture m beautiful feftoons from tree to tree. Tirano is the capital of the Upper Terzero, and the refidence of the podefta. A though the town contains feveral handfome buildmgs, yet on account of the narrownefs of the ftreets, and number of ruinous houfes, its general appear- ance is defolate. The Adda divides it into two parts, which are joined by a ftone bridge of a fingle arch. I obferved remams of ftone walls, vvith which this place was formerly furrounded. Thefe walls, together with an adjommg fortreis, were built by Ludovico Sforza, agamft the m- curfions of the Giifons ; but w-ere difmantled by the latter, when they acquired poffeffion ot the ^'=^1^^>^"^- • Tirano »l ^38 L E T T E R 74- Tirano carries on but little trade, except du- ring the time of the fair. 1 he ftaple commerce '-of the town confifts in the exportation of wmc and filk ; the former article, which is the molt confiderable, is fent in large quantities into the country of the Grifons, to Bormio, and into the territories of Venice. The filk, v^hich is drawn from this diftiia of the Vakeline, is not of the bea quality, nor very abundant : part is fent to Venice, and the remainder, through Chiavenna, to Germany. About half a mile from the town, on the other fide of the Adda, is the church of the Madonna, or the Virgin Mary, much viiited by the Catho- lie pilgrims. It is a large handfome building, conftrufted with marble, and ftone ftuccoed. Part of the church is ancient, for I obferved a date of 1 2o6 : the carved ornaments in this part are rrotefque, but by no means badly fini(hed. The modern building is in an elegant flyle ot ar- chitedlure. 'I he principal entrance is formed bv two Corinthian pillars ornamented with io- lia<^e and feftoons of flowers, while the pilaflers arc' neatly adorned with bafo relievos, m the ityle of the antique. 1 he asra of the workman- fliip, as I collefted from an infcription over the door, was 1533. , • u ij In the large area, before the church, is held, in the month of Odober, the fair of Tirano, remarkable for the number of cattle ^^hich are brought for fale : they are fcd upon the highelt Alps where they continue until the fnow begins to fall, and are chiefly fent from hence into Italy. 'Ihe fair continues three days, during which time the authority of the podefta is fui- pended ; M Valteline. 239 pended ; and the governor of the Valtelme has abfolute iurifdiaion over the town and diitntt. I cannot defcribe to you how much I am per- plexed with a variety of languages. I fpeak Italian or French with the principal gentry, and fometimes am obliged to hold a converfation in Latin. I talk a fmattering of German with my fervant, who undcrftands no other language, and, with my guide and the common people, a kind of corrupt Italian, like the Milanefe. I write my notes in Englifli, and during my pro- greek through F.ngadina, was employed in col- leaing a vocabulary of the Romanfh. 1 mult, therefore, warn you not to be furpnzed, (hould vou find a confufion of tongues in my Letters. The Valteline, called by the inhabitants Valle- Telina, extends from the confines of Bormio to the lake of Chiavenna, about the length ot fifty miles. It is entirely enclofed between two chains of high mountains ; the northern chain feparates it from the Grifons, the fouthern from the Ve- netian territories : on the eaft it borders on the county of Bormio, and on the weft on the duchy of Milan. . , , • r The Valteline, together with the counties ot Chiavenna and Bormio (which. had long been the conftant fource of hoftility between the bi- thops of Como and CoireJ came in 1 336, under the dominion of Azzo Vifcomi, foveragn of Milan, who quietly tranfmitted them to his luc- ceffors. Upon the death of John Vifconti, one of Azzo's fucceffors, his extenfive territories were divided between his nephews Galeazzo and Barnabas ». Upon the demife of Galeazzo, his • I do not mention Matthias, the eWeft brother, becaufe he died foon afterwards . I 240 L E T T E R 74. fon John Caleazzo fecured the perfon of his uncle Barnabas by a ftratagem, and having con- fined him in the caftle of Trevio until his death, which happened in 1395, annexed his dominions to his own, and became by this union the great- eft and moft powerful prince in Italy. Maftmo, ion of Barnabas, took (helter, upon his father's imprifonment, with Hartman, bifhop of Coire, and died in exile, without recovering any fhare of his inheritance. Previous to his death he formally ceded all his right and title over the Valteline, Chiavenna, and Bormio, to the bi- ihop of Coire, as a mark of gratitude for his proteftioii. * To this ceflion, at that time of no avail, the Grifons owe the poffeflion of tlicfe provinces, 'i he claim lay dormant for above half a century, until fome difcontents ariling in the Valioline in 1487, the Grifons made an irruption into thai country, in fupport of the biftiop's right ; but their arms not being at that time attended with iuccefs, they purchafed a peace, by rcnounciii;i all pretenfions to the Valteline. They renewed, however, their claim in 1512, when Ludovicc3, called the Moor, Uuke of Milan, \\"<\$ taken prifoner by Louis the Twelfth, and the whole Miianefe, comprizing the Valteline, occupied bv that monarch. ' Upon this revolution, the Grifons, xn con- iuudlion with tlie bifhop of Coire, entered th« Valteline, and, having expelled the J-rencli troops, took polfeffion of the country: they were received with joy by the inhabitants, who d;d homage t6 their new fovercigns, and in return obtained from them the confirmation of all their privileges, A compromife was immediately en- Valteline. Uf fered into bcfween the bifhop of X^oire^ni the three leagues, to ihare between thctn the fovc- reignty of this country. In the following year Maximilian Sforza, raifed to the ducal throne of Milan upon the expulfion of the French, ceded in perpetuity the paflfeffion of the VaU teline, Chiavenna, and Bormio, to the bifhop of Coire, and the Grifons : and this cefTion was ratified by Francis the Firfl, in the treaty of peace which he concluded with the Swifs and their allies the Grifons in 1516, when he Ob- tained poffefTion of the Miianefe. In 1530, the Republic of the Gtifons ac- quired the whole dominion of the Valteline, to the cxchifum of the bift>op of Coire ; under pre- tence, that the latter had not furnifhed hh quota of men and money in the war with Jawct of Medici, in defence of fhcfc c^ded catxntrie^-. accordingly they compelled the bilhop to fell hi» ihare of the (\>vercignty over the Vahclinc, Chi- avenna, and Bormio, for a yearly income of 573 ftorins to be paid to th(l favage and unremitting fury. In no country ha^ the fpirit of difcord been more prevalent, or reli^cms difputcs been car- ried to fo great an height. The zeal of con- lending faftions hat communicated itfclf to the Vol. II- R hiftorians Vahelin^ 24:^ L E T T E R 74. 24.Z X-i ii *. r L • Hiaonans of « uanfaaions ; each^of whon. .»^ evidently ^."''f^^^^^. ^ SfaQs, according to reprefentat^^ns of the fame ^aa^^^ the interefts he has elpou ^^ ^^^.^.^^ advantages I found no ^^^^ . ^ontradiaory ,t the «-'h'/^!;,SnrS mutually fubfer- accounts, and ren.'^^'^f ' . other's impofuion} vlent to the deteaion of each o ne v ^^^^^ --^ .1 -I TeTpleaded i a fUion to the religion has been pleadea ^^^ ^Sfyrare^uS'tJ^anny, and for rebellion by the ojj^!: . ,j„ chiavenna, and Bormio. ^" t belonged to the Milanefe, the fove- onginally belongea ^^^^^^ ^^e tfigns of that ' ^ fecrctly em- Grifons with a jea^°"?^^7„^Voment the inteaine braced every opportumty J ^'^^'^^^J^^,^ ^uh difturbances wuh ^vh> h they, in^^^^^^ ^^^, all democratical Itates, «"c ""S*^'. the extinaion of the family of Sforza, Upon the extmu gecond, the em- ^° ^'V^Tatsther rfdzedthe Milanefe as a "^^^ empire, ^^^^^^:^ claims of tbe French k,„ggve the ^^^^^^ ^^ to his own fo^ .^^'''P-^ Xd to his pretenfions "^^ ''t^tlte^lne' aS though bo'th he and "P°? ' Vl pS the Third, entered into trea- ^■^^ ^7£nce i 1 the three leagues, by which ties of alliance w country, yet they refigned all ^1^"^^° j-^„^,,^. They ne- ,Wir renunciation was " ver ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^. ver finally Tflmquijed aU i ^^^^^^. i"g ^ r^'ri^fanefe and^Wch the contetts bcred from the Milaneie, anu between between France and Spain rendered more valu- Sle to them, than t6 their predeceffors m th<; dutch V of Milan. . , r i Da ing the conftant wars, which from the ac- ceffion of Philip the Second the reftlels ambition of the SpaniOt court entailed upon Europe ths Ge man and Spanilh branches ot the Houfe of Aulhb were inseparably united; and the coun- dh of Vienna were direaed by the cabinet of Mdrld Under thefe circumftances the Valte line which, by coiineaing the 1 yrol and the Einlle, affoJded the only fecure paffage for r unaion of the Aultrian and fparlifh troops, became of fignal importance. Hence the Spa- nfli governors of Milan, highly olicitous to ac- nuire influence among the people, fecretly fo- mented the fpirit of difl-atisfaaion which the Sua of the Grifon governors had too juftly brovoked; promifed thdr affiftance to the ag- Cved inhabitants, and gained by thefe m^ns a powerful party in favour of their court. 1 ne mS of the inhabitants being thus gradually Tn over to the Spanifh intereft, the Count of Fuentes governor of Milan, ventured, in defi- ance of the Grifons, to conftrua the fort * which bears his name, for the purpofe of commanding the Daflaf^e of the Valtehne. . , „ -ft The fame reafons which rendered the Spamfh defirous to fecure the Valtehne, induced the French to obftrua their defigns. Henry the •Cth, with his ufual Vigour, zealouHy ef- Ufed the caufe of the Grifons, and was pi e- paHn^ to fend effeaual affiftance againft the at^ * See Letter 67. * ■ ir tempts ii 444 LETTER 74- tempts of Fuentes, when he was cut off by fud- deTalSLation ;' and the inte(hne troubles which took place upon his death, for a time to- ullv w thdrew the attention of France from this auarter The Spaniards, thus freed from their S formidable rival, purfued their projeds uron the Vakeline without oppofition, and a- Sd themfelves of the 'iomellic diffentions be- tween the Grifons and the inhabitants. The Grifons had long attempted t? Jti'^o^"^^ the Reformation into the Valtelme with the moft n^icious zeal, and without Paj-g Juffi -^^ at ention to the prejudices of a f^perlt'tious people. Churches for the worOnp of the Ke- formed relieion were conftruaed, and minifters egularly fSed with a permanent falary SchocJ. fS ProLftant children were eftaJWhed at Son- drio notwithftanding the remonftrances ot tne o ^;^ nriefts and the oppofition of the people. MTypri let's of the Popifh ecclefiaftics were E Cm them; privileges*, which, though rxorbltant, and repugnant to every prmcipk of r A ^^vprnment were fanctinea by uiage, ir cou'ld r" ^nce be abolidied without ex- "'S ?hr;eHgrur";;ounds of dUratisfaaioii ,.ere addTd othfrs, arffing from the tyrannical Loceedings of the Grifon governors, whom the advocates for rebellion painted, and it is to be tZTili too much ju^lice, in the -«? °ti" colours " A fyftem," they cried, of avarice Tnd extortion I eftabliflied by law ; the magi- . They were (as they are at F^f^O/i^^^Uyt civil authority for Al dehnquencics, a..d amenable o y the liftop of Coire. Urates Valteline. 245 ftrates purchafe their offices and mdemnjjr themfelves bv the plunder of the country. All 5 ngs are vlnal ; 'life, honour, and even con. fcience itfelf has a price. U is not poffibk for the governors to be more ^m^^'^^'YTT.T people to fuffer a greater complication of cala- "" Thefe well-grounded complaints were aggra- vated and the%rifis of rebellion accelerated by an aa of flagrant injuftice. Many inhabitant o?the ValteliSe, fufpeaed of favouring the Spa- niih court, and particularly ihofe, who had op- poied with the greateft zeal the ^ntj^duau^n^of fhe Reformed doarines, ^"e arrefted and con^ veved into the country ot the Grifons. MocK IZi o? juftice were eft^blilhed in f-eral places bv which the prifoners were fined to a large ^oum ; and fome were even wantonly fen- tenced to the torture, . Among the fufferers was Nicholas Rulca, a pritft of londrio, who had gained the univerfa efteem of the Catholics, by his unremitted re- tee o the Proteftant doarines, and .who for the rigid aufterity of his manner., was «- vered by the multitude as a faint. JJ« death :rthis plfon fo much refpe^ed, amidft the moft excruciating torments, raifed a fpint ot tury among the people too violent to be appeafed. SreUari'es of Spain did not fail to incre^e the general forment, and to fuggcft the inoft plaufible motives for immediate »nf""eaio;. They reprefented, that, as the Grifons were eonvulfed by fadions. and France difturbed by » Se€ Letter 79. \if in :eftine ,^6 LETTER 7,4. inteftlne commotions, a moft favourable oppor^ ;u^";4nted itfaf to (bake ofl'^be y oke -^^ whirh the^ groaned: animated by thtle 111^,^*=^ S^s' th/inhabitants determined to ccM.mencc hoftilities by a general maCacre ot the Piotcl '"""The 20th of lulv, 1620, was the day ap- ? ted fo the pe petration of this hornd d.ng.u Cdead of nlcSit Robiiilelli, the leader oi ihp fonfSy, accompanied by about a hundred foUowers! arrived it Tirano, and havmg affen.- WedThe chief Catholics of the place, laid before S m thet^ntlon of entirpatitig the l>rote a.us : the dreadful propofal was embraced x^iia all the Sal of refentmcnt, inflamed by fanaticdm. At brJak of day the fignal for the maflacre be.ng even by ri Jging^the bells ; great part of the m- Ei^an s iffLd^ftom their houfes and repaired m the market-place with terror and anxiety. In thi moment of perplexity the conlpirators fell uDou^he Proteftants, and encouraged the people to follow their example, by dearoying the en - mierofThe Catholic faith. Few words being need. Sv to exafperate an incenfed and fuperauious muVitude; every perfon feizing tje ^jit -tns which prefcnted themfclves, fcoured the ttreets, ftomed the hpufes, and affaffinated the ?rotef- ^^ n'urln- this dreadful fcene, the podetta, his fanUh and fome of the principal Proteftant. S rkuge in the town-houfe, and barncadoed tS^ doors^: the Catholic, however,, foon forced a paffage, and burft into the apartments where ?he fugitives were colkaed. Their fury was for a moment fufpended, at the aSVaing fight ot the JoS and h!s wife upon their knees, prcfenjing Valieline. ^^7 prifoned, and then put to deatn, wuuu "^Thf nextTcene'of the maffacrewas exhibited at Te U^lS^^^ difpatched from Tirauo A^^^^^^^ ^^^ red, as a fignal to the >n^^°"':" Catholics foon who was preaching ; but mdhng Proteftants rofe up, drove out i ^1^' ^d"uf tf tlSe^^^n^ws,Tnd S from the chmbed up to tne wi" ^' .;._.£. the doors outfide upon the crowded audience t^^^^^ at length being burft °P^J' J^ ^^^^^ofe who re- wire put to the fword, excepting nounced their religion. .^ towTdn'onS^'ir^? ti^.nrbeinl t Fn"Ske a ml^ and Smoned the people, of the ;VgK/i«^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ dience to this »nj"n™' ,°^". ,' ,u^ former Catholics began - f-b^', ^ut^thejo _ 'Z« overtaken in their flight, and involved m I 448 L E T T E R 74- the common ruin. Even the women laid afide the natural ibftnefs of their fex, and, hardened by fuperftition, --.aifed every fpecies ot out- ra«e upon the bodies of the deceafed. Mean while the Catholic troops entered Sondr.o, and exciting their partifans with the cry of « down with the enemies of the Catholic faith, made a general flaughter of the unhappy Proteltants. Mercy, however, was extended to the governor and his family, in a manner which does honour . to the chiefs of the revolt who condufted the at- tack of Sondrio. He was firft imprifoned, but afterwards, in confideration that he had always treated the Catholics with mildnefs, was dil- miffed with his family, and efcorted m fafety to the confines of the Valteline. It would be Ihocking to humanity to enume- rate any further particulars of this favage mal- facre, or to trace its dcvaftation in the feveral towns of the Valteline. It continued, without intermiflion, for three fucceffive" days ; nor were its horrid efieas confined merely to thofe who were affaflinated upon the fpot. Many who had efcaped into the country were hunted down hkc wild beads ; others, after eluding the fury ot their purfuers, were confumed by hunger and fatigue ; and numerous dead bodies were diico- vered in the woods, caverns, and torrents. Se- veral Catholics, who were allied to the 1 rotd- tants, fhared in the general difafter ; even wo- men and infants were flain in the moft de ibcrate manner. Some Proteltants faved their lives by abjuring their religion, and many, who retuied to puichafe their fafety by this conceflion, were burnt alive. . Valteline. 249 In the midft of this dreadful carnage, one in- ftance of fingular humamty deieives to be re- corded Bartholemeo Peretti, the principa Ca- Sue at Berbeno, being exhor^d to put aU th^ Pioteftants of that town to death, apprized them of the r danger, and affilted them in eifeaing an efcaoe But this aft of clemency was the occa- tnoi his own dertruaion, and he was executed "irthTK&rbeing either deftroyed or driven out of the country, the remaining ir.ha- b tints renounced their allegiance to the G r , tX and framing a new form of g?vernmej^^. threw themfelves under the proteftion of the £g of Spain, who fent an army to their fup- ^°The people of Bormio followed the example of the Valteline, with this differerice, that they did not maffacre, but only expeUed the Protel- tants. Having entered into an offenfive and de- fenfi^e alliance with the inhabitants of this val- ley, they alfo ereaed themfelves into an inde- pendent commonwealth. ^The Grifons, divided among themfelves were totally unequal to the chaftifement of their re- nted fubjeas. The Catholics weTe def.rous of mploying the mediation of Spain for the pur- pofe of recovering the Valteline; the Proteftants, Sined to vigofous meafures, propofed an ap- pi SJion to the Swifs cantons, Venice and 1-rance After violent diffentions, which were rte miuated without bloodfhed, the Pro^ftant intereft prevailed, and a deputation was fent to the powers above-mentioned. ^ Zuric and Berne inltantly aiipatched a body of uoops, while the Catholic cantons refufed to I I ,50 LETTER 74. ,A 1-ainft thofe of the fame perfuafipn with tSmK Venice, alarmed at the growmg Inrer of he Houfe of Auftria, and defirous of rrflLe through the Valteline, gave a fiattermg Xer^tothere^queft of the Grifons but .. h a fS of delay natural to a republic, deferred juft emerged from ^ "^"J^g ^^.^j, j.eifion. pofed to negoc:ate th n to aft .in ^^ ^^^.^.^ fhSSion^oftt^iSe; and although a £.ue \.as concluded between the kmg of See the duke of Savoy, and the ReP"f <^ Svenic' to afiift the Grifons unlefs the Val- ot V emc -, ,j th t could be ob- tehne was reltorea , yci <» , twined from the Spaniards was, that the torts oi he val ev ftould be placed in the hands of the ^'pe bit as the pope was a fecret partifan o £1 Houfe of Auftria, and mclmed to f-^vo^^ the S?/ $^'^ «au.h " ; ^e VaUeline Toun fuddenly changing its plan of oP-ation entered into the war with a zeal as ^ticere as t tas politic, and vigoroufly . interpofed m behalf "^TWs'levoludon in the French pohtks was ow- in Jto the^afcendancy of cardinal Richelieu, who ^ fanner becan to prefide in the cabinet, than ?he SnrdomTmed^to awake from that deep Sthar "v imo which it had iunk during the SKdminiftrations of Ancres and Luyr^e» Valielinf' That crcat miniver Inftantly perceived the im- Irtanfe of the VaUeline ; without wafting a portance or ^ .' , demanded an imme- Tat^^Sft^tSn"; t^t coumry, and enforced S?s demand by fending a d^tachmemo^ troop to the athftance of the Gnfons, under the com mand of the inarquis de fotvvres^ The oeneral, animated witti tne ipnu yi „c« mifX' pen«,».ed into thefe parts; jomed Ms amy to the S.iTs anJ Ctto, "•'' W '"■" iSlffoftronglv inclined to circumfcnbe the SorU of th?Grifons over the inhabitants of thf vZline, that he was fufpeaed of bemg brn>ed by the latter. Put it foon appeared, that this condua was occafioned by direaions from it ^% proceeded ^^^^^^^^^^^^ SetwfenX li^gf :f ™^^ Spain P Richdieu, the foufof the French monarchy having now brought to tnaturity his projea f^ ^it:2^:s rfS w^r at iS ev of a civil commotion ; and well aware St h'could not maintain Pofff-^'.S'ch he teline without an expence of troops, ^^'^^^ ^l could ill fpare, temporized for the "'•otnent,^and 1 ill I 353 LETTER lA- made overtures to Philip the Fourth. The lat- ter, harraffed by the long continuance ot holti- lities, ieemed equally defirous ot an accommo- dation: accordingly preliminaries of a new treaty were immediately adjufted by the con- trafting powers, at Moffon in Arragon. It was acrrecd, that the Valteline Ihould aga.n be re- t*ored to the Grifons under the following condi- tions: that no other religion but the Roman Catholic Ihould be tolerated ; that the inhabi- tants fhould cleft their own governors and mar sriftrates either from themfeWes or from the Gn- fous, but always from perfons of the Roman CathoUc pcrfuafion : that the governors Ihould be confirmed by the Grifons. In return for thefe privileges, it was ftipulated that the inha- bitants fhould pay an annual tribute, the amount of which was to be fettled by mediation. In confbquence of this treaty, concluded on the cth of March, 1626., the French refigned the forts of the Valteline into the hands of the pope, and evacuated the country. ..... In conformity to this alliance, the inbabitants baying elefted Robuflelli, who began the mat- facrc, for their governor, and appointed twelve magiftrates, lent a deputation to Coire to de- mand the confirmation of the Grifons. Ihe lat- ter, however, were by no means difpofed to ac- cede to a treaty fp deftruaiv? to the rights ot fovereignty, which they poffeffed over the Valte- line. Openly excited by the Republic o| Ve- nice, and fecretly encouraged by the French mi- nifter, they refuted to acknowledge the treaty ot Moffon. But as they were not in a flate to lup- port their claims upon the Valteline by force ot V '^ arms. Valteline. 25.1 -^rms, they could only remonftrate and nego- cSe without producing any immediate effect. Affairs continued in this ftate for three years ; until Richelieu, having completed the reduaion of the Hugonots by the taking of Rochelle, Jouid himlllf in afituation to turn the wh;^. force of France againft the Houfe of Aullna he diminution of whofe power he had long me- ditafed He now threw off themalk: the do- m n ons of the Houfe of Auftria were invaded rrfides, and every part of Europe became the theatre of his vaft def.gns. Among other en erprizes, the Valteline engaged no mconfi derable fhare of his ^"ention. The duke ot Rohan was difpatched to the Grifoiis with a for- Sble army,' and having ^o^ft^^r cent, when recourfe is had to arbitration, the other two per cent, being paid to the Savio. By this fingular privilege of referring to arbi- tration in all caufes of property, the civil courts of jufticearenot open to fuch corruption as the criminal tribunals ; and yet venality has taken fo deep a root in the affairs of this unhappy coun- try, that bribery finds its way even imo the civil tribunals. When the civil caufes are brought in the governor's court, and decided by him without the intervention of the Savio and Probi, there lies an appeal to the fyndicate, a body whofe office \ (hall now explain. At Government of the Valteline. 269 At the end of every two years, when the ma- giftracies expire, fyndicates are appointed by the Republic of the Grifons, for the purpofe of in- quiring into the adminiftration of the feveral governors, and of hearing appeals from their de- cifions. This court is compofed of nine mem- bers, including the prefident ; they are chofen reciprocally by the communities, three from each league. They make a circuit into each of the fubjeft provinces ; fend out proclamations, that they are ready to receive all accufations againfl the governors, examine witneffes, decide all appeals, and can mitigate all fines impofed, with- out the concurrence of the vicar and affeffor. They do not, however, finally determine in civil caufes, in the laft refort, which may be referred from their decifion to the diet. The fyndicate, which was intended to oppofe corruption and in- juftice, is neverthelefs the great fupport of both. Nor can it be otherwife ; for the fyndics pur- chafe their office from the feveral communities ; and as their falary is very fmall, they can only reimburfe themfelves by receiving bribes from the judges or from the appellants. Their office is bought for a greater or fmaller fum, as there are more or lefs appeals of confequence to be fubmitted to their arbitration. And what is pregnant with ftill greater abufes, when a caufe of great importance is to be referred to the fyn- dicate, the governors frequently purchafe from the feveral communities, in whofe right the elec- tion is for that time vefted, the power of nomi- nating the fyndics, and of courfe appoint their own creatures. Hence this court is become fo corrupt as to give rife to a proverb, " as 'venal as the fyndicate*' "^ ' Having i \ 270 LETTER IS^ Having thus endeavoured to draw a general ffcetch of the civil and criminal jurisprudence in this country, I fhall now mention the domeftic adminirtration of affairs. All public concerns, which do not fall under the jurifdiftion of the Grilbns, are difcuffed and determined by a council compofed of five repre- fentatives, one from each diilrift, which meets as occafion requires at Sondrio. Previous to its fitting, the public notary writes to the feveral parifhes of the five governments, informing them of the bufinefs to be tranfafted : each parifh has its meeting, in which every houfeholder pofleffes a vote ; and each diftrift has its affembly com- pofed of deputies from the feveral parifhes, who choofe the rcprefentatives. In all affairs of im- portance, the rcprefentatives are bound to vote in conformity to inftrudions received from their conftituents, and all tranfaftions are decided by a majority of voices. The council is empowered to demand a redrefs of grievances from the Gri- fons, and to remonihate againft infraftions of the privileges grimted to the inhabitants by the Capitulation of Milan. The governor of the Valteline is prefent, but has no vote. The tribute which the Valteline pays to the Grifons is fo fmalL the falaries of the governors fo inconfidcrable, and all duties fo trifling, that moil writers, who have had occalion to mention this valley, have defcribed it as the moft happy and the leaft oppreffed of all fubjeft prrovinces ; without tefleding, that notwithftanding thefe ad- vantages, the country is annually drained of a fum very difproportiouatc to the ability of the inhabitants. It Government of the Valteline, 271 It IS difficult to afcertain the exaft amount of this fum, as it arifes chiefly from the fecret as well as public profits of tjie courts of juflice. But when we confider tha^ the greateft part is procured by extortion ; that fcarcely any diftinc- tion is made between innocence and guilt ; that great crimes are committed with impunity, and petty offences are feverely punifhed ; we may add, that the mode of exaftion is more detri- mental to the country than the lofs of the fpecie itfelf ; inafmuch as a corrupt adminiftration of juflice is the worfl of all oppreffions. The clergy of the Valteline are not refponfible to the ordinary courts of juflice, their immuni- ties being fo exorbitant as to render them almofl independent of the civil authority. They are only amenable to the court of the bifhop of Co- mo. If a priefl is guilty of any mifdemeanor, his perfon cannot be fecured without the concur- rence of the bifhop, and governor of the diflrid in which the crime was committed. It is there- fore extremely difficult to bring an ecclefiaflic to juflice, as impunity is eafily purchafed, either by fecuring the favour of the bifhop's vicar or of the magiflrate. Nor are thefe pernicious privileges confined merely to the clergy, but extend to all perfons wearing an ecclefiaflical drefs, by the permiffion of the bifhop of Como. The Grifons have frequently endeavoured to annihilate thefe immunities, but always without effeft. The nobles of the Valteline are inter- efled to fupport the privileges of the clergy, be- caufe they can eafily procure the permiffion of wearing the ecclefiaflical drefs, and becaufe they can fecure their property, by leaving their eflates to the clergy at the extinftion of all the heirs namel r H 272 L E T T E R 75- named in the fucceffion. Such eftates, called hcneficia gentiiitia, are very common in the Val- teline, and cannot be feized for debt, or confif- cated. AH civil caufes of the clergy, below the value of two hundred livres *, are decided by the vicar of the bifhop of Como : above that fum they are brought before the bifliop. An appeal from his decifion lies to the pope's nuncio at Lucern, from him to the ecclefiaftical tribunal at Aquilea, and from thence to Rome. Sixty-four Valteline livres =: a pound fterling. LETTER TegUa. 273 LETTER 76. I, '■; U TegHo- Sondrio — Anecdotes of the Painter Ligario s — Morbegno — Delebio. I NSTEAD of proceeding by the nearefl: road from Tirano to Sondrio, I made a circuit by Teglio. I paiTed over the plain of Tirano, rich in all the productions of nature, and continued for fome way at the foot of the northern ridge of mountains, which are highly cultivated to their very fummits. Lower towards the South-eaft, and further towards the north-eaft, the tops of the rugged Alps make their appearance, gliften- ing with fnow. I paffed through a continued vineyard, and the foil is fo fertile, that corn, millet, flax, and hemp, are fown among the vines, which hang over them in beautiful fef- toons. Every village is adorned with a thick grove of chefnut trees, whofe rich and dark fo- liage produces a pleafmg cffeft. Teglio, the capital of the government of the fame name, is fituated upon the top of a moun- tain, about nine mil^ from Tirano, and twelve Vol. II. T from LETTER 76. from Sondrio. It is a long ftragglmg place, ani contains about three hundred houfes. Clofe to the town are the ruins of a fortrefs (landing upon an infulated rock, and formerly elleemed of great ftrength. This elevated fpot commands a very rich and extenfive profped from 'lirano to the lower part of the valley beyond Sondrio, as far as Morbegno. The government of Teglio 'is faid to comprize the twelfth part of the Valte- line : it is the mod populous diftrift, and con- tains about eight thoufand fouls. It produces in a good feafon much more corn than is fuffi- cient for the confumption of its inhabitants, and rivals Sondrio and Tirano in the goodnefs of its wine. Finding little at Teglio but the face of the country to excite my curiofity, I proceeded in my journey to Sondrio, through a traft equally cultivated with that which I had already paffed. I defcended by a gentle flope until I came to the Adda, which I fo- lowed, as it roars through the plain, fometimes confined in a narrow channel, fometimes expanding itfelf in a wider bed, and threatening the country with continual inunda- tions. Sondrio is the capital of the valley, the refi- dence of the governor of the Valteline and of the vicar ; but, like all the towns I have hither- to feen in this valley, it has a deferted appear- ance : there is little appearance of trade, and no animation. The town, partly built in a plain, and partly upon the fides of a rock, is placed in a very romantic fituation, at the extremity of a narrow valley, and occupies both fides of the Malenco, a furious torrent which frequently overflows its bank5. Many of the houfes arc very Anecdotes of Ligarioi 275 very antieht ; for I obferved the arms of the Vifconti, formerly the fovereigns of this country^ painted upon their walls ; thefe arms, reprefent- ing an enormous ferpent crufliing a man be- tween his teeth, arei too remarkable to efcape obfervation. The Valteline, from its neighbourhood td Italy, has imbibed a tafte for the fine arts, and there are many colleftions of pidliires which are hot unworthy of notice. This country, how^ ever, has produced few artifts of any eminence. Pietro Ligario is almofl the only painter whd deferves to be mentioned, and his name is fcarcely known beyond the limits of the V'^altelin^. Ligario was born at Sondrio, in 1686, of the! ancient family of Ligario, which took its namd from a neighbouring village of that appellation. Having difcovered a lively genius, atid a tafte for the elegant arts, he was fent when very young to Rome, under the care of Lazaro Baldi^ from whom he learnt that exaclnefs of defign which charafterizes the Roman fchool. From thence he repaired to Venice, where he paifed fome time in ftudying that exquifite colourings for which the Venetian mafters are fo remarkably diftinguifhed. He made himfelf firft known at Milan, where he met with fome encouragement; and in 1727, he returned to the Valteline. He found, however, but little employment, until he waji honoured witb the patronage of Count De- ialis. Envoy from Great Britain to the Republic of the Grifons. As he rofe in reputation, his bufinefs increafed ; but, being always very poor^ he was frequently compelled to finifli his pro- ductions with fuch hafte^ as rendered it impoffi- ble to give all of them that perfection, which he T z was r rihMCr rjS L E T T E R 76. was capable of beftowing. Hence arifes that inequality which is fo remarkable in his paint- ings. There is fcarcely a church in the Valteline which does not poffcfs one of his pictures : the mod capital of his pieces are the martyrdom of St. Gregory, in one of the churches at Sondrio, and St. Benedift, in the chapel of a nunnery near thb town. Thefe were his lateft perform- ances ; and as they were, contrary to his ufual cuftom, finifhed with great labour and exadnefs, may be confidered as the teft, from which we ought to eftimate his abilities as a painter. The figures are well grouped, the principal characters diltindly marked, and the expreflion of the heads is admirable: the ftyle of colouring is lively without being gaudy, and chafte without being dull. A few days after he had painted St. Benedict, he was feized with a violent fever, and expired in 1752, in the 67th year of his age. Ligarlo IS defcribed by the connoiffeurs as a painter who united correftnefs of defign to beauty of-^ colouring. He is remarkable for grouping his figures to the beft advantage, and his heads are drawn with a noble fimplicity. He is, how- ever, reprefented as too much inclined to an imitation of the antique: his figures often re- femble ftatues ; and the folds of his drapery fall with too much precifion, like the wet drapery in the fculpture of the antients. The character of his faces is chiefly Grecian ; but it is remarked, that they are too fimilar to each other, and look like the portraits of per Ions who are of the fame family ; a circumftance not unufual to thofe, who too fervilely copy the antique. Befide Anecdoles of Llgarh. ^77 Befide painting, Ligario was (killed in mufic, ,;nechanics, and agriculture, and has left behind him fpecimens of no ordinary acquaintance with each of thofe arts. He made, for his own amufement, an organ of very large dimenfions, and conftrufted a clock with a cylindrical pen- dulum, remarkable for the accuracy of its move- ments. He was fond of rearing plants and fimples, and was fo n?uch addifted to the Uudy of agriculture, that l;e wrote inftr.vl4iio^s to his family, upo^ the ch^apefl: and beft method of cultivation. He endeavoured to infufe into, his ion and daugher, Caefar and Viftoria, a fondnefs for the polite arts. They both followed their father's profeffion, but although not without fonue degree of merit, they failed of equaling his reputation. Viftoria was chiefly diftinguiftied .for her ikill in vocal and inflirumental mufic. I rode this morning to fee the painting of St. Bcnedia, at the nunnery about a mile and an lialf from Sondrip. After I had examined the painting, the abbefs f^nt ^ meffage, defiring the favour of my company, which 1 accepted with pleafure. Upon entering the parlour, I made my obeifance tQ the abbefs, who, in company with two nuns, was feated on the other fide of the grate. After the ufual compliments, and inquiries if I was pleafed with the pifture, wine and cakes were brought in. The wine was the produce of their own vineyards, and w^ excel- lent. The cakes were fhaped Jikp (kulls and +" bones. The abbefs and her friends behaved ww great eafe and politenefs ; they aflvcd many queftions relating to England, natural to perfc>ns fequef- jered from fociety 5 and one of tbem apologized fpr I 278 t E T T E R 76. for their curiofity, by remarking, that women were not lefs inquifitive or lefs fond of talking, becaufe they were fhut up in a nunnery. The perfon who made this remark was pale, but not unhealthy ; her figure was remarkably fine, and (he had been very handlome ; a difappointment In Love, as I am informed, fir ft induced her to take the veil, and to bury fo much beauty and elegance in a convent. I was fo much flruck with her manner and addrefs, that I could not help wifhing fhe may never live to regret fuch a (tep, and that fhe may feel all that eaie and tran-" quillity of mind, which are expected, but not always found by thofe who take the veil. I am juft returned to Sondrio, from a fmall excurfion I made to Morbegno an4 towards the extremity of the V^heline as far as Delebio. Jsfear Sondrio the valley is about two iTiiles in breadthj and remarkably fertile in vines and all kinds of grain. The right-hand chain of moun- tains is clothed almoft from the bottom to its fummit with a continued \ineyard, which is efteemed to yield the beft wine in the Valteline. I rode along the plain which ilretches, without interruption, from Sondrio to the lake of Como, The middle part of this plain is occupied, and frequently overflowed by the unruly Adda, and being marfhy, yields nothing but coarfe paf^ turag^. The fides rife gradually into gentle ac- clivities, and difplay a rich variety of natural produftions. Morbegno lies on the left fide of the Adda, at ^he foot of the fouihernmoft chain. It is the handfomeft town in the Valteline, and appear «; to have m,ore fliops, and to carry on more trade, ^han all the others united. Mr. Plaiita, th(; Morbegno, t^9 prcfent podefta of Morbegno, no fooner heard of my arrival, than he politely waited upon me at the inn, and invited me to his houfe. Find- ing that I was defirous of proceeding to Delebio, he infilled upcn accompanying me; and having ordered his carriage without delay, propofed an immediate departure, that we might return to his houfe by fupper. This gentleman is the fame perfon to whom I was obliged for fo hofpi- table a reception at hi5 houfe at Cernetz ; and I am happy to find from all quarters, that he may be reckoned among the few who ad with ho- nour and integrity in this land of extortion. When vicar of the Valteline, he difcharged the duties of that important office with great credit, and has entered upon his government with the fame fpirit of integrity. There is a pleafure in receiving ads of politenefs in a foreign country ; but it is a double fatisfadlion to be obliged to perfons whofe charadexs are deferving of the JLigheft efteem. The road from Morbegno to Delebio ran iilong the foot of the ehain of mountains, which feparate the Valteline from the Venetian territo- ries. Thi$ chain having a northern aJped yields few vines, but is richly clad with hanging groves of chefnut-trees, checkered with meadows and fields of corn. The Valteline expands gradually as we advanced towards the lake of Como : in this part the whole plain is chiefly a morafs, ex- pofed to the inundations of the Adda, which flows through it in a wide channel. The filk, which begins to be of great importance in the trade of this valley, is chiefly exported from Delebio, through Chiavenna, into Germany. Upon my return to Morbegno, 1 fupped with Mr. !1 l! s8d LETTER 7g. Mr. Planta, and after the repaft was entertained with an excellent concert. In my return to Sondrio, I croffed the Adda oppofite Morbegno, over a handfome ftone bridge, and proceeded along a road carried at the foot, and along the fides of the northern chain of mountains. It was almoft a continued vineyard, with millet, Turkifli corn, flax, and hemp, growing between the ranges of vines. The romantic beauties of the Valteline are greatly heightened by the numerous remains of ancient fortrefles and caflles fcattered throughout the country. They were all difmantled foon af- ter the capitulation of Milan *, from a recent experience, that the inability of the Grifons to provide them with fuflicient garrifons, expofed them to the enemy, and rendered them for the mod part a fource of annoyance rather than of proteftion. It might be imagined, that fome of thefe fortrefTes ought to have been retained for the purpofe of awing the inhabitants : fuch an abfolute confidence, however, is repofed by the Grifons in the guaranty of the country by the houfe of Auftria, that they do not maintain a fingle foldier throughout the whole Valteline. * See Letter 88. LETTER 41 Valtelinf, 2S1 LETTER 77. Commerce-^Produ^ions—Populafm-^of the VaU feline. X H E chief commerce of the Valteline is car- ried on with Milan and the Grifons. The principal exports of the country are wine and filk, which turn the balance of trade in its fa- vour : they enable the inhabitants to exifl with- out any manufaftures, and help to fupply the money which is exafted by the governors. The wine is fent into the Grifons, Germany, the Venetian Itates, Bormio, and occafionally to Milan. Upon a rough calculation 73,000 foma, or horfe-loads, are annually exported : this year the foma fold for a pound fterling, which may be confidered its average value. The filk is fent to England, Zuric, and Bafle. The diftiidt of Delebio and Talomara produces the fined filk, the neighbourhood of Sondiio the next in quality, and the diftrift of Tirano fupplie* ;! P tt^ LETTER 77- f I fupplies ail inferior fort. Three thoufand pounds of the fineft fort, which is efteemed as good as the (ilk procured from Piedmont, are fent annu- ally to England by way of Oftend. ITie greateft part of the filk is wound in the Valteline, for which purpofe there are filk mills in the principal diftrids. Bcfides tbefe commodities, the Valteline ex- ports planks, cheefe, butter, and cattle. The inhabitants receive from Milan corn, rice, fait, filken (luffs; from Germany and Switzerland cloth and linen ; from Genoa fpices, coffee, and fugar. There are no manufadlures in the Valteline, and alraoft all the menial trades are exercifed by foreigners. The population of the Valteline may be efli- mated from, the following (ketch : Upper Diftri^ contains Government of Teglio Middle Dirtria jbower Diibift — Total of the |K)puJation 20,000 TouIe. 8,000 i8,oco 1 6,000 62,000 The cottages of the peafants, which are built of (lone, are large, but gloomy, generally with- out glafs windows: I entered feveral, and was every where difgutted with an uniform appear- ance of dirt and poverty. The peafants are madly covered with rags, and the children have ufualiy an unhealthy look, which arifes from their wretched manner of living. Such a fcar- cxty of provifions has been occafioned by lafl year's drought, that the poor inhabitants have beea reduced to the mod extreme neceflity. The Valteline. ^83 The price of bread was unavoidably raifed fo high, that in many parts the peafants could not purchafe it ; and their only food was for fome time a kind of pafte, made by pounding the hulls and ftones of grapes which had been preffed for wine, and mixing it with a little meal. Famine, added to their oppreffed fituation, reduced the inhabitants to the lowefl condition of human mifery, and numbers periihed from abfolute want. But it is a pleafure to reflefl: that they are in fome meafure relieved by the plentiiul harveft of the prefent year. Perhaps no part of Europe is more fruitful than the Valteline, and yet there is no country in which the peafants are more wretched. Many reafons are to be affigned for the mifery to which they are reduced. The firft and prin» cipal caufe is the form of government. The go- vernors, as I have (hewn in a former letter, ge- nerally abufe the exorbitant authority entrufted to them by the laws, the peafants are iniprifoned Vpon the flighteft information ; and as all cranf- greffions are puniftied by fines, an accufed per- fon is feldom found innocent ; fo that a confi- dcrable number of peafants are annually ruined in the courts of juftice. Befides the individuals who are fuppofed to fuffer for their own guilt, the parifiies are fubjeft to continual affeffments, towards defraying the expences for the trial and imprifonment of the poor parifhioners : if the latter are unable to pay the fum required, it is demanded from the pa- ri(h to which the criminal belongs. In this cafe it frequently happens, that the affeffments, in- (lead of being laid upon the landholders, are impofed n s84 LETTER n- 1 impofed upon each hearth, by which means the chief burden falls upon the poor. Another caufe of their wretchednefs proceeds from the prefent ftnte of property. Few of the peafants are landholders ; as from the continual oppreflion under which the people have groaned for above thefe two laft centuries, the freehold^ have gradually fallen into the hands of the no- bles and Grifons, the latter of whom are fup- pofed to pofllfs half the eftat^s in the Valteline. 'ihe tenants who take farms do not pay their rent in money, but in kind ; a ftrong proof of general poverty. The peafant is at all the cods of cultivation, and delivers near half the produce to the landholder. Ihe remaining portion would ill compenfate his labour and expence, if he was not in fome meafure befriended by the fertility of the foil. The ground feldom lies fal- low, and the richeft parts of the valley produce two crops. The firit crop is wheat, rye, or fpelt, half of which is delivered to the pro- prietor; the fpcond crop is generally millet, buck-wheat, maaze, or Turkey corn, which is the principal nourifliment of the common people: the chief part of this crop belongs to the pea- fant, and enables him in a plentiful year to fup- port his family with fome degree of comfort. The peafants who inhabit the diftrifts which yield wine are the mod wretched : for the trouble and charge of rearing the vines, of ga- thering and prefling the grapes, is very confi- derable; and they are fo very apt to confume the Ihare of liquor allotted to them in intoxica- tion, that, were it not for the grain intermixed with the vines, they and their families would be left almoll entirely deftitute of fubfiftence. Befides :f Valtellm. ^85 Befides the bufinefs of agriculture, fome of the peafants attend to the cultivation of filk. For this purpofe they receive the eggs from the landholder, rear the filk-worms, and are entitled to half the filk. This employment is not unpro- fitable ; for although the rearing of the filk- worms is attended with much trouble, and re- quires great caution, yet as the occupation is generally entrulted to the women, it does not take the men from their work. With all the advantages, however, derived ' from the fertility of the foil, and the variety of its produaions, the peafants cannot, without the utmoft difficulty, and a conftant exertion, maintain their families ; and they are always re- duced to the greateft diftrefs, whenever the fea- fon is unfavourable to agriculture. To the caufes of penury among the lower clafTes above enumerated, may be added the na- tural indolence of the people, and their tendency to fuperftition, which takes them from their la- bour. Upon the whole, I have not, in the courfe of my travels, feen any peafantry, except in Poland, fo comfortlefs as the inferior inhabi- tants of this valley. They enjoy indeed one great advantage over the Poles, in not being the abfolute property of the landholder, and tranf- ferable, hke cattle. They are therefore at li- berty to live where they chufe, to quit their country, and feek a better condition in other regions ; a relief to which diftrefs often compels them to have recourfe. \ t Chiavenna^ 85 LETTER IV Chiavenna, Auguft l^. I quitted Sondrio yeflerday after dinner, artd went up the valley of Malenco ; yielding vines, chefnut-trees, rye, oats, and pafturage. As I afcended, the fides of the mountains were clothed with birch and firs; and theii* fummits produced nothing but a fcanty herbage. The inhabitants of this valley appear healthier, better clothed, and more induftrious, than the other peafants of the Valteline. In confequence of theit diftance from the feat of government, or of being in ge- neral too poor to excite the rapacioufnefs of the Grifon governors, they are, perhaps, lefs op- preffed, and for the mod part poffefs a fmali portion of land. The valley is narrovi^, and watered by a torrent, which forms a continued cataraft. ^ The road is a faint path, by the fide of a precipice, and carried over huge fragments of rocks. I paffed the night in a folitary hut at the bottom of the Muret ; the next morning mounted a rugged afcent in the channel of a ithall dream ; obferved nothing but bare rocks, without the lead appearance of vegetation; came to the top of the Muret, and paffed over a large mafs of fnow and ice. In thefe Alpine fituations the traveller fees, within the fpace of a few hours, nature in all her fhapes. In the Valteline (he is rich and fer- tile ; here fhe is barren and dupendous. Tliefe regions are fo dreary and defolatc, that if it were not for an occafional traveller, the flights of a few drange birds, the goats browzing on the rugged Alps, and the fhepherds who tend them, nature would appear quite inanimate. In thcfe elevated fpots, while 1 was ** Placed above thejlorm's carter y^ Pajfage of the Muret. i 8 7 I noticed the pleafing effefl: produced fey the va- pours and mids floating in mid air beneath me ; circumdances finely felt and defcribed by the author of the Mindrel : " yfnd oft the craggy cUff he MJ fo cUmli IVhen all in m'ljl the nvorld below was lojl : What dreadful pleafure there to Jland fulUnie^ Likefjipwreck^d manner on defert coajly And lyieiv the enormous fea of vapour , tojt In billows lengthening to the horizon round. Now fcoop^ d in gulfs , with mountains now embofs'dl'* From the top of the Muret I defcended about three hours a craggy, defolate, and uninhabited country ; and noticed the gradual increafe of vegetation as I approached the road leading to Chiavenna, a little above Cafazza. This paflage over the Muret, which ferves for the tranfporta- tion of wine and other merchandize from the Valteline to the Grifons, is only open about five months in the year. I noticed LETTER iSS LETTER 78, LETTER 78. Chiavenna'- •Valley of St. Giacomo," of Sl Gulielmo. -Chapel Chiavenna, Sept. 16. JVl Y correfpondence with you has been for fome time interrupted by a dilorder which has detained me in thefe parts above fix weeks. The day after my arrival from the Valteline, I was feized with a laiFitude, which I attributed to the fatigue of the journey ; it ended in a violent pain and fwelling of my right-hand, the effeds of a rheumatifm, which probably feized me the night I paffed at the bottom of the Muret : not being able to procure a bed, I flept in the hay-loft, and fuffered much from the piercing north wind, which blew from the glacier. I likewife impru- dently walked the next morning, without inter- miflion or refrelhment, for the fpace of feven hours, from the top of the Muret to Bondo, fo that the cold and fatigue brought on the iheumatic complaint which has detained me here fix weeks. During great part of the lime I wore my arm in a fling, which rendered * me Chiavenna, 289 me incapable of writing a line. What I moft re- gret in this delay is, that I have been prevented from being prefent at the general diet of the Grifons, which was held at Davos the latter end of laft month. The county of Chiavenna came under the fo- vereignty of the Grifons in the fame manner and at the fame time with the Valteline. During the war of the Valteline it frequently changed its mafters, but at the peace of Milan was finally reftored to the Grifons. It is ruled, like the other fubjeft provinces, by a Grifon governor, who is called CommiiTary, and who in a few in- flances is even lefs limited in his power than the judges of the Valteline. The criminal court of juftice is formed by the commiffary and the affeffor. The latter is ap- pointed by the commiffary, from three candi-. dates nominated by the county. He muft attend all examinations, concur in ordering torture for the conviSion of a criminal, be prefent when it is inflifted, and ratify the final fentence : but ass the affeffor owes his place to the commiffary, and (hares in his exaftions, he is a mere cypher, and never ventures to exert his right of interpofing a negative. This circumftance renders the courts of juflice' in Chiavenna more uniformly iniquitous than even thofe of the Valteline : for the clofe union between the commiffary and affeffor almoft precludes a chance of redrefs, and gives unbounded fcope to oppreffion. It would be unneceffary to defcribe the mode of proceed- ing eftablifhed in thi? court of juftice, as it is fimilar to that of the Valteline. In civil caufes the commiffary receives five per cent, of the con- VoL. 11. U tefted v ■■ i 1 I 290 LETTER 78. tefted property ; and an appeal from his decifion may be fubmitted to the fyndicate. Chiavenna, the capital of the county, is fitu- ated at the foot and upon the fide of a mountain, and contains about 3000 fouls. The inhabitants carry on but little commerce. The principal article of exportation (excepting the (tone pots mentianed in a former letter*) is raw filk. The whole country produces about 3,600 pounds of that commodity. A manufadure of filk {lockings, the only one in the town, has been lately eftablilhed. The neighbouring country is covered with vineyards ; but the wine is of a meagre fort, and only a fmall quantity is export-^ ed. The great fupport of Chiavenna ^ is the tranfport of merchandife, this town being the principal communication between the Milanefe and Germany* From hence the goods are fent cither by Coire into Germany, or through Pre- galia and the Engadinas into the Tyrol. There IS a duty laid by the Grifons upon all the mer- chandife which paffes through Chiavenna ; but this duty is fo fmall, that the whole cuftoms, including thofe in the Valteline, are farmed for ' 17,000 florins, or about £, 1260 per annum. The principal objeft of curiofity in the envi- rons of Chiavenna is the fortrefs in ruins, feated upon the fummit of a rock, which overlooks the town, and celebrated in the hiftory of the Gri- fons for its almofl impregnable ftrength. The only road which leads up to it is fteep and craggy. The walU occupy a large fpace of ground, and are now partly covered with vines. 1 he ftrongeft * See Letter 67. part Chiavcnnai l^i part of the fortrefs was conftrufted upon an in- fulated rock, rent, as fome perfons conjedbure, from the contiguous mountain, by a violent con- vulfion of nature. It is on all fides abfolutely perpendicular, and its only communication with the caftle was formed by a draw-bridge thrown acrofs the intervening chafm. Others again * fuppofe the feparation of this rock from the re- maining part of the fortrefs to have been the work of art, and affirm, that it was excavated in 1 3 13, by order of Galeazzo Vifconti. Its length is above 250 feet, its height about 200, and its greatefl diftance from the adjoining rock about 20 feet. This fortification, though always deemed im- pregnable, was taken at different periods, fome- times by aflault, but more frequently by famine or ftratagem. It was finally demolifhed by the Grifons themfelves. Clofe to Chiavenna Is a rock of albedos, a kind of mineral fubftance, of a greyifh filver co- lour, which can be drawn out into longitudinal fibres as fine as thread, and is fuppofed to be indeftrudible by fire ; the ancients manufaftured it into a fpecies of cloth refembling linen. This fpecies of cloth is frequently mentioned by Pliny. It was principally ufed for fhrouds, in which the bodies of the great were enveloped before they were placed upon the funeral pile ; and which, not being liable to be confumed by fire, preferved the afhes of the body feparate from thofe of the wood. The art of weaving ♦ We may perhaps, reconcile thefe two opinions, by ad- mitting that the opening was originally occafioned by a violent convulfion of nature, but was afterwards enlarged and fafhioned by art. U 2 the i I|! I 1:92 LETTER 78. the afbeflos into linen Is not loft, as fomc au- thors have aflerted ; bat as it is very trouble- fome and expenfive, and as the cuftom of burn- ing bodies, which gave it a value, is no longer in ufe, the manufacture is difcontinued. Befides the rock of afbeftos juft mentioned, near Chia- ' * venna, feveral mountains in thefe parts yield the fame fubftance. The beft fort is found in the valley of Malenco, of which 1 have feen many very fine fpecimens. Upon quitting Chiavenna, I entered the valley of St. Giacomo, which is narrow, and watered by the torrent Lira. It is part of the county of Chiavenna, contains about ten pariflies, is under the jurifdiaion of the commiflary, and poffeiTes feveral important privileges, that preferve the inhabitants from the oppreflion which their neighbours endure. All the caufes are tried in the valley. The criminal ftatutes are the fame as thofe of Chia- venna, with this difference only, that inftead of the affeflbr the valley chufes four perfons, who are always prefent at the examination j and without whofe concurrence torture cannot be inflifted, nor fentence paffed. The valley has its own code of civil jurifpru- dence, and courts independent of the commif- fary, from the decifion of which there lies an appeal to the diet The lower part of the valley produces vines ' and corn : the upper part rye, barley, and paf- ture, mixed with large groves of fir and pine. I paffed on my left^-hand the church of St. Gug- lielmo, which I mention becaufe it is fuppofed to have been erefted in honour of William king of Sicily. This William was the laft fovereign of Valhy of St. Giacomo. 293 of the male branch of the Norman line, w^hich commenced in Count Roger, who conquered Sicily from the Saracens in the latter end of the eleventh century. Roger was twelfth fon of Tancred of Haute- ville, a Norman baron, and brother of the cele- brated Robert Guifcard, the braveft of thofe brave Norman adventurers * who fallied from their native country, formed a flourifhing but temporary eftablifhment in the fouthern parts of Italy, and furniihed by their exploits fuch ample materials for hiftory and romance. The fon of Count Roger, who inherited the name and fpirit of his father, erefted Sicily into a kingdom : at the extinftion of the male line of Robert Guif- card in the perfon of William, duke of Apulia, he annexed Apulia and Calabria to Sicily, and reigned over thofe territories, under the title of the Two Sicilies, which now comprehend the prefent kingdom of Naples and Sicily. The throne of Roger was fucceflively filled by his fon William the Firft, furnamed the Bad, and by his grandfon William the Second, diftin- guiflied by the name of Good. On the demife of the latter without iffue male, the Sicilians let afide Conftantia, daughter of Roger, and wife of the emperor Henry the Sixth, and elefteJ Tancred, illegitimate grandfon of the firft king, Tancred died in 1193; and William, his only furviving fon, was crowned while an infant. Being dethroned by the emperor Henry the Sixth, who claimed the Two Sicilies in right of * I would refer the curious reader to Mr. Gibbon's am^ pie and accurate narrative of the hillory and exploits of thefe Norman adventurers, in the fifth volume of bis Decline and Fall of ijhe Roman Empire, fe 294 L E T T E R 78. his wife Conftantia, he was imprifoned, together with his mother Sibila, in the fortrefs of Ems, near Coire. Some authors aflert thut he was deprived of his fight, others that he was cafira- ted, by order of Henry. Some relate that he died in prifon, others that he was releafed, tOr gether with his mother Sibilla ; that he accom- panied her to France, but growing weary of the world retired to this fpot, and pafled the latter part of his days as an hermit, with fuch a repu- tation of fand:ity, that he was canonifed after his death. Such contradictory accounts occur fre- quently in the hiltory of the darker ages. Mu- ratori, who from his infight into the ancient re- cords of thofe ages, is the moll capable of folv- ing this difficulty, leaves the queftion undecided ; but feems rather inclined to believe, that Wil- liam was releafed from his captivity, and that he afterwards turned hermit. As the genealogy of the Norman line is very complicated and obfcure, and erroneoufly repre- fented by many writers, I (hall here fubjoin a table of thofe fovereigns and their principal de- fcendants. GENE. t I r'mm < H < C5 < » MM o m mm o CO c o u a> u T3 3 O o > 4-) C o u ri J3 o < en o 00 O .2 o c .o us Q ai '^ U o O HH t-^ »^ u ^ o 3 O- 60 C»0 C B u O en Q^ P tn '^ e ►* /^ ^ OJ •— ht^ o u P.-SS. %) N 0-;:=; ^ ^ O »— t toCO il •— CO » OS • ^M otf u ^ t_»_ re «o ^ _Si .■2.5 '3 c o (30 *c ,3 w» . VO ^ so < . . OK »— I 00 ■ ij "5 J 2 -Q « 2 ui a> a 5^g ^ 1 o a o 2 rt < "S < >^^^ h cn o U - O i^ o •> ra ••5-5 -US O bi ^1 M • a >> ^ otf OS CO 5 t« o - ^.2.S - « "" w .J w 5> J c ^ ** o w ^ ^I'S g 60 c «o a> -•» p »- w « 3 V™ W u c 3 ♦ a: c fc ^ '^ 0.2 .^ ^ "W ^ r^ C •< *5 •« ^ -a >>0 5 lu ^ c JD I nj re 4 I M g -^ -^^ 8 ^ '^ .»_• • -T3 o r: o M -u "d — ^ — I I • ^ •> • rt e =; *- ,*? H a: w m o L w o c ^ a> at O 4< >- I employed m I . . n 296 LETTER 78. I employed about three hours in mounting from Chiavenna to the pleafant plain of Campo Dolcino, and afcended from the extremity of that plain to Ifola, the lad village in the valley of St. Giacomo, from whence I am now writing. In thefe parts, where mountains rife over mountains, and Alps tower above Alps, thofe fallings of fnow, which I mentioned in a former letter *, under the name of Avalanches, are ex- tremely common. They are juftly and warmly defcribed by the poet of nature f . \ jimong thefe hilly regionsy tvhere embraced In peaceful vales the happy Grlfons dwell; Ofiy rujhing fudden from the loaded cl'iffhy Mountains of fnow their gathering terrors rolL Fromjleep tojleepy hud thundering down they come, jf wintry wafle in dire commotion all ; And herds and flocks ^ and travellers andfwainsy Andfometimes whole brigades of marching troops ^ Are deep beneath the fmothering ruins hurled. Splugen» «97 Letter 31. f Thomfon*s Scafons. LETTER 79, Splugen — 7h€ Grey League — Rbeinwald — Yia Mala — Tujis — Nicholas Rufca* ■ x* R O M Ifola the afcent is fteep and rugged to the top of mount Splugen. I paffed by the fide of the torrent Lira, which roars from precipice to precipice in feveral ftupendous catarafts. The road is hewn in the folid rock : in many parts it has the appearance of fteps, in others is perfo- rated through the mountains. In purfuing my way over this dreary trad, I was frequently re- minded of the road down the Gemmi *. To- ward the fummit of the Splugen there is an oval plain about two miles long and one broad, en- circled with craggy points : it produces no trees, but yields rich pafturage. Near the fummit I noticed feveral rude blocks of a whitifh kind of marble. I baited my horfes at a fmall inn which (lands at the extremity of the oval plain, and is the LETTER * Letter 33. only 298 LETTER 79. only hoihre between the valley of St. Giacomo and Splugen. Before the door I obferved at leaft a hundred horfes laden with merchandife. Three hundred horfes are faid to pafs daily in this feafon of the year. Gently afcending from this oval plain, I ob- ferved the fource of the Lira, which falls into the lake of Chiavenna, and foon afterwards crof- fed the higheft ridge, on the other fide of which the torrents flow towards the Rhine. The coun- try is wild, and fcarcely produces a fingle tree. As I defcended lower, firs began to make their appearance ; at firft thinly Icattered over the rocks, and gradually thickening into large fo- relts. I his paifage over mount Splugen is prin- cipally ufed for the tranfport of merchandife to and from Coire : it is kepi open even in winter, though not without great difficulty. In that fea- fon the raerchandiles are chiefly tranfported on fledges, of which fort/ or fifty pafs in a day. The territory of the Grey League, into which I have juft entered, occupies all the eaflern tradt of this mountainous country, and is by far the mofl: confiderable, in extent as well as popula- tion, of the three Grifon leagues. The etymo- logy of the word Grigia, or Grey ^ which gives its name to this league and the whole country, is extremely uncertain. Some authors have con- jectured, that the people of this difl:rift were the original inhabitants of the country, and that they were called Grey^ in order to diftinguifli them from the more modern inhabitants, by an allufion to grey heirs, an emblem of antiquity. Others, on the contrary, dating this appellation from more modern times, affert that the firft iiuthors of the revolution, which, in 1424, gave liberty Grey League. 299 liberty to the feveral communities in the Grey League were drefl in the coarfe grey cloth of the country ; and that in commemoration of this great event the league was called Grey from their drefs. It is certain, however, that this appella- tion is of very high antl(>iity, and exifled long before the revolution in quelUon. Tacitus calls the inhabitants of this country Rhatos Grifeo^^ id eji^ cams ; and Ammianus Marcellinus fl:yles the country about Coire, ( anos campos^ or the Grey Fields. Hence it appears how very fruitlefs mult be any invefl:igation concerning the true etymo* logy of this word, which lies hid in very remote antiquity, beyond the reach of our mofl inquifi- tive refearches. Without entering, therefore, minutely into etymological difquifitions, we may only remark in general, that the term Grifons, or Grey people, was the general name by which all the inhabitants of Rhetia were diftinguifhed, and was not confined to that particular diftrict now called the Grey League. The appropriation of the term to that particular body, may be thus accounted for. When the inhabitants of this diftria firft rofe in arms, for the purpofe of afferting their independence, they naturally ftyled themfelves, the League of the people calle4 Grifons, or the Grey League ; while thofe of the two other leagues, who afterwards formed fimilar aflfociations, although equally known by the name of Grifons, took other appellations to diftinguifli themfelves from the firft confe- deracy. The territory now occupied by the Grey League, was formerly fubjeft to the abbot of Difentis, the counts of Werdenberg, of Sax, of Mafox, and the baron of Rha^tzuns. The peor lOO LETTER 79- Crej League. 301 «< I m pfe feera to have originally pofTefled confiderablc pririleges, which were gradually undermined, and occafionally violated by their chiefs and ba- rons ; the latter, being engaged in perpetual hoftilities with each other, laid great exaclions upon their fubje6ts, in' order to pay the troops, who could only be prevented from difbanding by repeated largefles. Thefe exaftions were at length carried to fuch an excefs, and the people fo wantonly oppreffed by the tyranny of their ddpots, that excited by the example of the neigh- bouring Swifs republics, they determined to de- liver themfelves from the grievous fubjedion un- der which they laboured. The meeting of the infurgents was by no means attended with any unwarrantable exceffes, natu- rally to be expefted from an enraged popuhce, but was condufted with the greateft compofure. The leading members of the feveral communities having previoufly concerted the plan, a folemn deputation was difpatched to the refpedive fove- vereigns,^ who were affembled at Truns : the de- puties laid the feveral grievances before the chiefs, f om whom they not only extorted re- drefs, but alfo procured a confirmation of feveral obfolete privileges, and the addition of many others. In confideration of thefe conceiTions, the chiefs referved to themfelves certain preroga- tives, which fome of their defcendants or fuc- ceffors poffefs at this day ; a diftindion which is now peculiar to this league, and renders its ge- neral conftitution in fome refpefts more arifto- cratical than that of the other two leagues. Thefe prerogatives confift in being prefent at the annual diet of the league, and in alternately propofing three candidates for Landrichtcr, or chief chief of the league, from whom one is nomi- nated by the deputies. The counts of Werden- berg being extinS, the prerogatives juft men- tioned are now confined to the emperor of Ger- man, as baron of Rhaetzuns, the abbot of Di- fentis, and the temporary count of Sax. No real count of Sax now cxifts ; for, upon the ex- tinftion of that family, certain communides * of the Grey League feized the domains, and continue to exercife the rights which wer^ for- merly enjoyed by the counts of Sax. The mode of creating a titular count, for the purpofe of exercifing thefe rights, is as follows : A few days before the meeting of the diet of the league affembled at Truns, the communities in queftion reciprocally eleft a perfon who repre- fents the count. He is called in Romanfli * Caa. de Saxe^ and, although not unfrequently a com- mon peafant, fits, at the diet, upon the fame bench with the reprefentative of the Houfe of Auftria and the abbot of Difentis, is addreffed by a title equal to his fuppofed dignity, nomi- nates the Landrichter every third year, and, having difcharged his office, finks at the expira- tion of a few days into his ordinary rank. Another diilinftion peculiar to' the Grey League ought not to be omitted. Like the other leagues, the particular diftrids poffefs their courts of criminal juftice in the laft refort : but in all civil caufes above a certain value there lies an appeal from the decifion of the feveral courts to fixtecn deputies annually affembled at Truns. • Thefe communities are Lungaets and Vals, Hants and Grub, Flims and Caftris. f Literally head of Sax. Cau is fuppofed to be a corniption from caftut, I only 302 LETTER 79- Rheinwald' Z^3 I I only mention the faft m this place, but fhall have occafion to enlarge upon it in a future letter. Splugen, fituated upon the rife of an hill, at the bottom of a rugged chain of Alps, is the principal place in the valley of Rheinwald which forms a high jurifdiclion of the Grey League. The Rheinwald is fo called from the Hynder Rhine, which takes its rife upon the Vogellberg, at about the diftance of twelve miles, and runs through this valley. It was my intention to have vifited this fource, but my late indifpofition will not permit me at prefent to take fatiguing journeys in thefe mountainous regions. The inhabitants of the Rheinwald fpeak Ger- man, although they are entirely furroundcd by people who ufe a different language. Towards the fouth, beyond the mountains of Splugen and St. Bernardin, in the valleys of St. Giacomo and Mafox, Italian is the common tongue : to- wards the north and eaft, in the valleys of Schams, of St. Peter, and of Lugnetz, Romanfli is fpoken. This remarkable circumftance has led many authors to conjefture that the people of this and other diftricls of the Grifons, who talk German, are delcended from the Lepontii^ fup- pofed to be a Celtic nation, and confidered as the original inhabitants of this country, before the eftablifliment of the Rhetians. As I fhall have occafion to examine this fubjeft more fully in a future letter * upon the languages of the Grifons, I (hall for the prefent only remark, that although the inhabitants of this diftrift are im- * See Letter 89. mediately mediately encircled by people who talk Italian and Romanfh, yet the German language is fpoken at Avers, Cepina, Tufis, and Furftenau, which are only at a fmall diftance from the Rheinwald. I quitted, on the other (ide of mount Splugen, the Italian climate and productions : the air of this valley is fo piercing, that we may agree with the proverb " there are nine months win- ter and three months cold." Two high roads meet at Splugen, one from Chiavenna, which I traverfed yefterday, the other leads over the Bernard into Bellinzone. From Splugen to Arder the road continues by the fide of the Hynder Rhine, through a moun- tainous region, which prefents at every ftep the moft awful magnificence of fcenery. The inhabitants of Suffers, the laft village of the Rheinwald, talk German; and at a fmall diftance I entered the valley of Schams, where I heard the peafants fpeaking Romanfli. I made myfelf tolerably underftood by a kind of jargon, compofed of German, Italian, and Romanfli. I took out my vocabulary of the Engadina lan- guage, and compared the different modes of ex- preflion and pronunciation. The inhabitants call their language Romanfli; but it differs widely from the Romanfli fpoken in the valley of Surfet, and ftill more that of the Engadinas. The Bible and other books ufed in this valley, are- in the fame dialeft as thofe which are read in the other parts of the Grey League, and the language is fimilar, with a fmall variety in the pronunciation. The valley of Schams, a community of the Grey League, contains eight or nine inconfider- able ''IBB ill' 1 :iJt 304 LETTER 79* able burghs or villages fituated at fmall diftances upon each fide of the Rhine. It is much lower and more fruitful than the Rheinwald. I crofTed the Rhine at Zillis, leaving on my left hand Donat, where the collecljve body of people meet every year to chufe their magiltrates, and regu- late all civil and political affairs. Soon after- wards I came info the Via xMala, fo called from the fuppofed difficulties and dangers of pafTing through it. Such dreadful defcriptions have been given by different travellers, that I ex- pected to have found it the worfl road which I bad hitherto travelled. But I was agreeably -de- ceived, for it was not more incommodious than the way from Splugen to i\nders ; nor did I once think it neceffary even to difmount from ' my horfe, except when I (topped to take a nearer Tiew of any particular fcene which (truck my fancy : the road even admits carriages. No reafon occurs to me, why this particular way fiiould be diftinguilhed by the appellation of Via Mala^ unlefs fuch defcriptions allude to former times, and modern writers have adopted them as The mere echos of ancient travellers. Perhaps the peculiar gloom of the valley, through which the road pafles, may have helped to convey thefe ideas of terror to perfons not accuftomed to Al- pine regions. The Via Mala runs through a dark and unin- habited valley, overfpread in many parts with thick forefts, which admit only a kind of twi- light gloom, and fo exceedingly narrow, that the deep rocks, which enclofe it, hang over, and feeni almoft to meet towards their fummits. The Rhine foams at the bottom, fometimes not Via Mala. 30s ttot vifible, and fometimes faintly glimmering through (( Jar^fome pines, that, o'er the rocks reclined. " Wave high, and murmur to the hollo'w wind,** Pope» About three miles from the commencement of the Via Mala, we came to a ftone-bridge of a fingle arch, thrown acrofs a gulf; a fublime fceae, which I llopped to admire, and which I left with regret. The Rhine falls in a beautiful cafcade, rolls in a narrow channel at the depth of above four hundred feet perpendicular, fu- rioully dafhes under the bridge, expands itfelf into a wide bafon, and then is loft under a rock, through which it has forced a pa(rage. The im» pending mountains, partly bare, and partly em- browned with firs, caft an awful gloom over the gulf beneath* I was here greatly (truck with one circuiti- (tance, which I examined with much attention^ and which I had obferved in fevcral other vallies of Switzerland, but never in fuch perfeftion as in this place. The Rhiiiej which is at prefent about four hun-dred feet below the bridge, feems evidently to have once flowed as high, or even higher than the place where the bridge now itands ; to have gradually worn away the rock, and excavated the deep channel in which it now runs. Havitig pa(red the bridge, I went through a fubterraneous opening a few paces in lengthy which had been dut through the overhanging rock, and a little further cro(red a fecond bridge funilar to the firft. Soon afterwards I quitted the Rhine, and be- gan afcending. This part of the country is fo Vol. II. X entirely 3o6 LETTER 19' i ! l;.!^ entirely uninhabited, that I did not me^t with a fingle houfe until I came to Roncalia, a village in the community of Tufis, upon the top of a deep mountain. From thence I defcended to Tufis, fituated near the torrent Nolla, at the be- ginning of the valley of Tomliafca. This town is faid by the antiquaries to have been built by the Tufcans, when they took refuge in thefe parts under Rhastus. Tufis is well known in the hiftory of the Gri- fons for the Siaffgericht^ or court of juftice, which fat in i6i8, for the trial of perfons ac- cufed of holding a correfpondence with Spain, and of oppofing the introduftion of the Protef- tant religion into the Valteline. Amongft thofe who fuftered in this iniquitous tribunal, the moft remarkable was Nicholas Rufca, whom I had occafion to mention in my letter on the troubles of the Valteline, the cruel circumftances of whofe death excited the general refentment of the Catholics, who foon afterwards broke out into open rebellion. Nicholas Rufca, a native of Bedano, in the bailliagc of Locarno, was educated in the Je- fuits' college at Milan, at the expence of cardi- nal Boromeo, and made fo great a progrefs in his ftudies, that, in 1589, he was appointed principal of the church of Sondrio, although he was only in the 24th year of his age. He im- mediately fignaiized himfelf by his zeal in preacliing againft the reformed doftrines ; and >»ras one of the difputants who fupported the Ro- man Catholic faith againft the Proteftant mini- ftets, in two public conferences held at Tirano, in 1595, and the following year. His charader has been placed in the moft oppofite lights by the « Nicholas Rufca. 307 the refpe^tive hiftorians of the two contending parties : by the one he is reprefented a faint, and by the other an affaflln. But if we examine with impartiality, it will appear, that though he was hurried on by a violent fpirit of fanatical zeal, yet he cannot be fuppofed guilty of the atrocious crimes which his enemies have laid to his charge. Soon after his promotion to the be- nefice of Sondrio, a mifunderftanding broke out between him and the Proteftants, which gradu- ally increafed during the violence of the religious difputes, and was carried upon the following oc- cafion to the higheft degree of animofity. One Chiappinus, and three gondoliers of Ve- nice, were arrefted under fufpicion of a defign to affaffinate Scipio Calandrinus, the Proteftant minifter of Sondrio, at the inftigation of Rufca; a confeflion of guilt and of Rufca's privity being drawn from Chiappinus by the force of torture. The governor of the Valteline referring the af* fair to the diet of the Grifons, Rufca was cited before that affembly, but declined to appear ; either, as his enemies pretend, from a confciouf- nefs of guilt, or, as his friends alledge, from a dread of putting himfelf in the power of the Grifons, fo violently incenfed againft him. Hav*- ing efcaped from the Valteline, he waited at Bedano while his caufe was publicly pleaded be- fore twelve judges deputed by the Grifons. Being acquitted of the charge, he returned to Sondrio, where his zeal, inflamed by his late profecution, continued to difplay itfelf by an unremitting oppofitiorr^^c^the eftablifliment of a Proteftant fchool at Sonario \ a favourite mea- fure of the oppofite party. .?^\ X 2 i. His 1I «:j|i k ^I< I I! 308^ LETTER 79. His enemies, baffled in their firft attempt, brought againft him a charge of a more public nature : they accufed him of oppofing the de- crees of the Grifons, and of exhorting the inha- bitants of Morbegno not to bear arms againft the king of Spain, the protedor of the Catholic religion. In confequence of thefe infinuations, a troop of fixty Grifons arrived at Sondrio by night, and, feizing Rufca, carried him to Tufis, where he was not only impeached of high trea- fon in the temporary court of juftice there affem- bled, but was likewife again examined, contrary to every principle of equity, for having abetted the affairmation of Calandrinus : as he peremp- torily denied thefe charges, he was condemned to be tortured ; which horrid fentence was three times infliaed in the dead of night. The exe- cution of the fentence failing to extort from him the fmalleft confeflion of guilt, he was, on the following night, twice fubjeded to a repetition of the fame dreadful procefs. Being of a weak frame, and full of infirmities, he was overcome by excefs of agony, and expired amidft the tor- ments *. Some writers have aflerted, that Rufca died of poifon, which he had taken previous to his ♦ Die tlom'micay qua Augufti 27, erat, ter fine tamen pondcre elevatus fuit \ perftit'itque in negaiha, f^pius m'lfericordiam Dei ac hominum imploransy quas voces dolor tormentorum ipfe expri- mehaty erat enim homo crehris febrihus vexatus, ac proinde [up- nendi torturam impos erat, Sequente die luno', fades illi vAa obtegitur, ne a quoquam fgnum habere qneat ullwriy et his abfque tuinen pumlere elevaiur : tumque obfervatus ejl fpiritus deficerel et cum foherdur tortura jam exfpiraverat, fenens Hn^ruam dentibus admorfam fc ut fanguis adpareret. Aporta Hiil. Reform. Eccl. Ratt. vol. II. p. 268, 269. a laft Nicholas Rufca. 309 laft examination ; but this fuppofition feems to be totally devoid of foundation, and was only advanced in order to refcue the judges from the odium of having tortured him to death. For when it is confidered, that, according to the common mode of applying torture in this coun- try, he was five times drawn up by a pully, with his arms tied behind, fo as to occafion a diflo- cation of his fhoulders; that he remained in that excruciating pofition above half an hour each time ; and that he was in an infirm (late of body, unable to endure fuch extremity of paip, we have no occafion to feek for any extraordinary caufe of his death. The advocates for the Proteftant party in vain endeavour to exculpate Rufca's judges from an intolerant fpirit of bigotry, by afferting that the whole tianfaftion was a civil and not a religious procefs ; for it is evident, that theological ran- cour, however difguifed under the mafk of pa- triotifm, was the leading motive to this profecu- tion. Independent indeed of all theoretical rea- foning, every rational Chriftian, whatever his perfuafion may be, muft recoil with horror from enormities fo inconfiftent with the firft principles of humanity, and contradictory to the nieeknefs of that religion, which ought to be the rule of our aftions *. * Mr. Aporta, with the impartiality of an honeft hiftorian, fpeaking of the iniquitous a(5ts of this tribunal, fays, " Deum immortalem ! ^id ejl carbones irritare, hojles Jludio conqulrere ac in fe concitare, fummis itna mtfcere, ft hoc non erat ? Nullus iamen aBus majorem huic tribunali invidiam concilianiit quam fubita mors Nicolai Rufcte, qui tormentis folutus fub judicum Qculit ex/piravit," iiift. Ref. Eccl. Ra^t. vol. II. p, 266. LETTER 3'® LETTER 80, Retzitns. 3»i LETTER 80, Talley of Tsmlia/ia — Retzuns-^Reichtnau, Coirc, Sept. 2 1 ft. F, ROM Tufis I contmuecj my route along the valley of Tomliafca, by the fide of the Rhine, whicn here fcparates the Grey League from that of the Houfe of God : numerous towns, villages, and caftles *, lie agreeably fcattered through the vale in the mofl: romantic fituations. I paifed through Catzis, leaving on my left the fruitful mountain of Henzenberg, called in Romanfh Montagnia, and remarkable »in thefe parts for its fertility and population. I then proceeded to. Retzuns, and turned a little out of my way to. the caftle of that name, which makes fo confpi- cuous a figure in the hiftory of the Grifons. • Guler, the hiftorian of Rhxtia, fays, that no region of Europe contains fuch a number of antient cafUcs as the coun- try of the Grifons ; and adds, that in the fraall valley of Toraliafca, not more than a German mile long, and a quarter ^road, there a.rc more thsn I'cvcntcjn cailles. ^ Antiquarians ^ Rhaiium or Rhatia Ima (Lower Rhactia), and give the following account of its conftruftion. In the early ages of the Roman hiftory a nume- rous army of Gauls penetrated into Lombardy, and took poffeffion of the greateft part of that ' country, which was then occupied by the Tuf- cans. A confiderable body of the latter being driven from their native country accompanied their leader, Rhaetus, into thefe Alps, and efta- blifhed themfelves in thefe regions. RhaetuS gave his own name to the whole region, and con. ftrufted that fortrefs which he called Rhatia Ima, fince corrupted into Retzuns. Livy re- lates the emigration of the Tufcans into thefe parts without mentioning the name of their leader, who is called Rhaetus by Pliny and Juftin; and the number of places ftill exifting in thefe Alps, which bear a refemblance to that appella- tion, feem ftrong teftimonies in favour of this account. . . But as events of fuch high antiquity will al- wavs be liable to much doubt, let us defcend to later times, which admit of no difpute. The caflle was the refidence of a baron, who poffeffcd the adjacent territory, and was called Baron of Retzuns. His name frequently occurs in the ancient hiftory of this country, when the terri. tory of the Grifons was divided into feveral pet. ty fovereignties. He is alfo mentioned among the chiefs, who affembled in 1424 at Truns, and confirmed and enlarged the privileges of the people, when the feveral communities united and formed the Grey League. At that time^ the baron referved to himfelf certain prerogatives, which are now poffelTed by his fuccelTors. In U59, the male line being extinft, the barony ♦A/KC' ifti 312 LETTER 80. Reichenau. defcended to a collateral branch, and in 1470, came by purchafe into the pofleflion of the em* peror Maximilian the Firft. Ferdinand the Firft mortgaged the barony for 14,000 florins to John Planta, in whofe family it continued until the year 1679, when it was redeemed by the empe- ror Leopold, and it now belongs to his grand- daughter Maria Terefa, the prefent emprefs *. The revenues of this territory are very fmall, amounting to 2000 florins, or fcarcely ^^.200 per ann. ; but by the pofleflion of it the Houfe of Auftria enjoys confiderable influence in the political affairs of the Grifons. The delegate of the emprefs, who is called Adminiftrator, has a vote in the diet of Truns, and nominates every third year the Landrkhtery or chief of the Grey League. Being defirous of feeing the caftle, I fent my compliments to the Auftrian delegate, who ^n- flantly made his appearance, and politely attend- ed me round the caftle. The prefent building was raifed by Leopold, upon the foundation of the antient ftrufture, of which there are fcarcely any remains. I could not, upon the clofeft in- fpeftion, difcern the flightefl: traces of Romaa workmanftiip. This caftle is the ufual refidence of the Au- ftrian Envoy to the Republic of the Grifons ; but as the prefent envoy dwells in his own houfq at Reichenau, it is now occupied by the Auftrian defegate. It is fituated upon an eminence, and commands a fine view of the adjacent country, ♦ The emprefs was alive when I wrote this letter : on her deceafe it was inherited by her fon, the prefent emperor of Germany. The 3M The rich plain, which extends as far as Reiche- nau, is bounded on all fides by high mountains, and yields, among other productions, abundance of wheat. U he Lower Rhine flows through it in a wide and ftony channel. The delegate finding, during our converfa- tion, that I had a letter of recommendation from Count Firmian to the Auftrian Envoy at Reiche- nau, invited me to dinner, and politely offered to accompany me in the afternoon to Reichc*? nau ; an invitation which I made no fcruple to accept. The company at table confifted of the adminiftrator, his wife, and a capuchin friar. The lady fpoke nothing but Romanfti, fo that I was not able to enjoy much of her converfation* 1 could only drink her health, and make her a fhort compliment, which I had learned by rote. I held a long converfation, in the French tongue, with the adminiftrator, upon the barony of Ret- zuns, on which fubjeft he kindly gave me the following information. As delegate of the em- prefs of Germany, he has a kind of territorial jurifdiclion over the village and diftrid of Ret- zuns. The barony of Retzuns comprizes the villages of Retzuns, Bonadutz, Embs, and Feldfl3erg, which form a High Jurifdi6lion in the Grey League, and fend tw^o deputies to the general diet of the Grifons ; the people are free; they aflemble annually in the court of the caftle to elefl: their magiftrates, when every male at the age of fourteen has a vote. The delegate nominates the Landamman from three candidates appointed by the people : the emprefs receives the fines for criminal offences, and pays the ex- pences of the procefs ; the prifoners are confined in the caftle, but are tried by judges chofen by the people. After II IWi^ y4 LETTER 80. Rcichenau. After dinner I accompanied my hod through a rich and fertile plain to Reichenau, and waited upon Mr. Buol, the Auftrian envoy, who re- ceived niQ with great attention and politenefs ; and obligingly invited me to remain fome time at Reichenau : an invitation I declined for the pre- fent, through my impatience of arriving at Coirc, where I expefted to receive fever^l letters from my friends in England, from whom I had not heard fince my departure from Milan. Reiche- nau is fituated upon the conflux of the two branches which form the Rhine. The lower branch is the fame which I followed during the greateft part of its courfe from Splugen; the upper branch rifes near the mountain of St. Oothard, and flows through the valley of Sopra Sclva. The caftle, or houfe of Mr. Buol, is placed in a mart romantic fituation upon a fmall eminence, a little above the junction, and the garden advances to the Rhine. At this place ihere are two bridges, which were built by the nephew cf Grubenman, that dcferve particular notice ; one, which is thrown acrofs the lower branch of the Rhine, meafared thirty-five paces, or about a hundred and five feet. The fecond is built acrofs the Rhine below the point of union, and forms a moft beautiful objeft. It is a w^ooden bridge of a fmgle arch, covered like that of SchaflThaufen, and conftrucled upon the fame plan, with this difl^erence however, that the road is not carried in fo perfeft a level. The fpan of the arch is two hundred and twenty feet in length. As the banks of the Rhine in this fpot are more elevated than thofe of the f:ime river at Schafl'hziufen, the bridge of lleiche- iiau is raifed confiderably higher above the fur- Antiquarians derive the name of Retzuns from lihatiurn 315 fecc of the water than that of Schaffliaufen *. And as it prefents alfo to the eye but a fingle curve, its general appearance is far more piSu- refque, and its effeft more ftriking. But it id not near fo beautiful a piece of architedure as the bridge of Wettingen, which is Grubemnan's mafter-piece. The more I examine thefe bridges, the more I am ftruck with the fublime fimplicity of the fl:rudure ; the more I am aftoniihed, that the perfon who fir ft conceived the plan was a common carpenter, totally uriacquainted with the theory of mechanics, and indebted to a na- tural genius for having carried praftical archi- tefture to fuch perfection. In my way from Reichenau to Coire, 1 (lop- ped at Embs, in order to inquire if there are any remains of an old caftle, in which William, ion of Tancred king of Sicily was confined. At prcfent there is not the fmalleft veftige of fuch a fabric ; but according to the tradition of the country it formerly ftood upon a hill, where^: on the church is now erefted. The valley from Reichenau to Coh-e is about two miles broad, and produces corn, pafture, ^d fome vines, which begin to make their ap- pearance near Embs. Ihe Rhine flows through it with the rapidity of a torrent. Several infu- lated rocks are fcattered on the banks of the ri- ver, fome barren, others covered with wood, which greatly diverfify the fcenery. The chaii^ pf mountains fronting the northern afpefl: is pverfpread with groves of fir, while the oppofite. ^•idge is richly clothed for fome way with oaks. t See Letter i. f Letter 13. and fir 316 LETTER 80. and Its fummits crowned with firs and pines. A little way beyond I entered the League of the Houfe of God, and arrived in good time at i-oire. League of Cod* s Houfe. 3'7 L E T T E R 81. League of God^s Houfe — Town and Bijhopric of Coire — Convent of St. Lucius. ■f:i.:i.' LETTER 1 H E whole territory, which is now com- prifed within the League of the Houfe of God, was under the dominion of the bifliop of Coire, until the people, opprefTed by their rulers, threw off the yoke, and having formed a general league, compelled the bifhop to ratify their in- dependence. The aera of this important revolution is not precifely marked in the annals of this country. Some hiftorians have even afferted, that it hap- pened fo early as the latter end of the fourteenth century, and was anterior to the formation of the Grey League. But this opinion does not feem to be grounded upon fufEcient evidence ; as the fads alledged in its fupport intimate little more than that the bifhop granted feveral immu- nities to the inhabitants, but by no means prove, that the communities formed themfelves into a league Il mi 318 LETTER 8r, league at fuch an early period, and afforded the ^rji * example of liberty in thefe parts. For that honour is undoubtedly due to the Grey League. This revolution, which finally exalted the league into its prefent ftate of freedom, pro- bably took place between 1424, the sera of the formation of the Grey League, and 1436, the year in which the Ten Jurifdiftions rofe into in- pendence. This league is denominated in Romanfh La Ligia de la Chiada f ; in German, Gotiftmnjhund^ from which we call it the League of the Houje of God: it takes this appellation a$ well from the cathedral fituated in its capital, as from having once been under the jurifdiclion of the biihop of Coire. It is divided into eleven diftridts ; each of "which (Coirs e^ccepted) 1% fubdivided into two little republics, or communities. By this ar- rangement the leaguf comprehends twenty-one republics I , and fend;? twenty-two deputies to the general diet. Form.erly the burgomafter of CoIre wa$ per- petual chief of the league without election, but in the latter end of the laft century the other communities claimed a power of nominating to this office in their turn. The affair being re- • Campell er;;oures this notion, and hi> authority un- fk>u!HedIy carries great weight : but we muft confider that he grounife b« opinion merely upon conje^ure, and that, as a nieinber » 320 LETTER g,. I f 'iHi I peror Conftantius, who, in the 355th year of the Chriftian aera, penetrated into Rhetia, ancf fixed his (lation for Ibme time near the fpot where Coire now ftands. A town, as it often happened on fuch occafions, was perhaps con-* ftruded near the camp ; and from the imperial refidence it is llippofed to have derived the name Curia^ its ancient appellation, fince corrupted into Coira and Coire. The remains of two or three towers, which are evidently of Roman conltrudion, atteft its antiquity, and ferve to eftablifh the truth of thefe conjedures concern-* ing its origin* The town of Coire was formerly a city of the German empire, under the dominion of its own counts, and came in the ninth century under the jurifdidion of the bifhop. Like many other cities of Germany, it obtained confiderable pri* vileges from the different emperors ; and the in^ habitants, having gradually circumfcribed the authority of the bifhop, at length eftabliflied an independent republic. I he government of Coire is of a mixed form^ partly ariftocratical, partly democratical. The fupreme legillative authority refides in the citi- zens, whofe number amounts to two hundred and ninety-four, divided into five tribes. Each citizen has a vote at the age of twenty. The fuffrages are never collected m a meeting of the whole body of the people affembled together ia one fpot ; but the objed of deliberation is fepa- rately laid before each tribe, and is decided by the majority of the five tribes. ^ The executive power is entrufted to the coun- cil of feventy, compofed of fourteen members annually elefted from each tribe. This fovereign council council is divided into feveral lefler departments, of which the principal is the fenate, of council of fifteen, who have the chief diredion of af- fairs, either folely or conjointly with other members of the fovereign council. The chiefs of Coire are two burgomafters taken from the members of the fenate, who, although liable to be removed, invariably continue in office for life. ^ Thefe two magiflrates enjoy the fupreme dignity by rotation, each for the fpace of a year ; during which term the afting chief, un- der the title of reigning burgomafler, prefides in the ufual councils. The criminal tribunal is compofed of the fenate and fifteen other members of the fovereign council. The prifoners arc ex- amined and the procefs made out by the fecret council, formed of the feven oldeft members of the fenate. The majority of thefe feven muft concur, to order the infliftion of torture. AU ter examination and conviftion, the afts of the procefs are laid before the criminal tribunal, which ultimately pafTes fentence ; and all offences, excepting great crimes, are commonly punifhed by fines. My curiofity led me this morning to the apartment in which the general diet of the Gri- fons is held every three years ; although it con- tained no objeft worthy of defcription, yet it did not fail to ftrike my attention, as being the place where the parliament of a free nation is affembled. Coire fends two deputies to this diet, who are generally the two burgomafters ; but if one of thefe fhould be chief of the league, the other deputy is chofen by rotation in the fiv« tribes. Vol. II. Y vvith i iii L E T T E R 8i. with this condition, that he muft be a member of the council of feventy. ^ . . i^ t From the apartment in which the diet is held I went to the town-hall, in order to fee the form of adminiftering the oath to the new Bunds -prejident. In general the ceremony takes place juft betore the meeting of the diet, in the prefence of the deputies of the League of God's Houfe ; but as the perfon to whom the office now devolves was not prefent at the diet, it was neceflarily poft- poned. All the parties being aflembled, Mr. Tfcharner, the laft prefident, with the public notary, flood at the upper end of the room ; the centleman appointed to fucceed him flood at the lower end, with the Bunds-weiber, or fecretary, dreffed in a cloak half black and half white, the livery of the league. Mr. Tfcharner addreiled to his fucceffor a fpeech of about ten minutes, in German, acquainting him, that he was ap- pointed by the deputies of the league Bunds-pre- fident for the enfuing year, giving him joy ot 'his promotion, and congratulating the League upon the nomination of a perfon fo wel calcu- lated by his integrity and abilities to fulfil the duties of the office. At the conclufion of this fpeech, the public notary read the oaths for the prefident, for himfelf, and the fecretary. Mr. Tfcharner then told them to hold up three hn- crers of their right-hand, and to repeat after him their feveral oaths ; which ceremony being con- eluded, the new prefident made a (hort fpeech, that he was highly flattered with the honour conferred upon him, and that he would Itriye, "as far as his abilities would permit him, to promote the welfare of the Legate of which he had been elefted prefident. Then the former prefident Cdire- 323 prefident bowing to the new chief, the latter walked out of the room ; and thus ended the ceremony. It is remarkable, that although in the no- mination of the magiftrates, prefident, and de- puties, the ariftocratical party has the entire diredion, yet that the appointment to the vacant governments of the fubjed provinces fhould be left wholly to chance. When the turn belongs to Coire, the five tribes meet feparately, and a candidate is appointed by lot from each tribe. Thefe five perfons then draw lots for the office, and the fuccefsful candidate may fell the turn ; with this reftridion, that the preference of pur- chafing it fhall be given firfl to a member of the fame tribe, fecondly to any citizen of Coire, thirdly to an inhabitant of the League of God's Houfe. It frequently happens, that the five perfons", who are to draw lots for the ?;overnment, agree to divide the profits of the ale. Upon the higheil part of the town fland the bifhop's palace, the cathedral, ' and the houfes belonging tg the chapter. The bifhopric of Coire is very ancient, and was probably erefted foon after the firft efta- blifhment of Chriftianity in thefe parts under Conflantine, or his fon. This diocefe once extended over the whole Roman province of Rhetia, which comprehended the prefent coun- try of the Grifons, Valteline, Chiavenna, and Bormio, the eaftern didrift of Switzerland as far as the lake of Conftance, and part of Tyrol. The bifhop's territorial polfefTions were alfo con- fiderable, and his revenues by no means inade- quate to his power and dignity. It would be Y 2 uninterefling 344 LETTER ii' fenrfby the fomaiion »f 'I" I-'»8~ "fp"''.^ Houfe, »d the limtation of his P«'»S»« . ° "c,7 ; by the former he .as compel ed to ratify d?e indeieirdcnce of the communn.es i by the Utte ttJprmcipal prerogative,, ^o" "^Kh I.' if cifSr r ro,,« tSs\'S hi t^S to the condition of a pn»y r^ ySeees confiaed in having admiffion and a r=::,ing £sr:Ls!'^ i- ""l raSr.u"dti"ot"hV™o«' =r' r ' »■„ All thefe preroiatives »ere abro- la f;. gel 1 d?et 'of thi Grifon. in . 5 J7 ; Khelofs of the tythes, «bich .ere fel«d b, ■^Vh1%X'?;°"*of the Roman empirej :mfeVrS3:nJis|??eK Colre, .3^5 «bout /"yo from the cuftoms of Chiavenna, in return for having ceded his right over the Val- teline, Chiavenna, and Bormio, to the Repubhc of the three leagues *. The only prerogatives remaining are the right of coining money, and an abfolute jurifdidion both in civil and cri- minal affairs within the fmall diftria m which his palace and the chapter are fituated. Beyond this diftria he enjoys not the leaft power : fo far from interfering in the affairs of the town, he could not even enter it if the inhabitants chofe to exclude him ; a right which they afferted m 1764, upon the following occafion. A Ca- tholic, in order to prevent his being arrefted for a crime of which he had been guilty, took refuge from^he hands of juflice in the cathedral. lh€ inhabitants, inflamed by the biihop's refufal to deliver him up, raifedagate clofe to the only x)pening which leads into the epifcopal diltrid ; - by which means the avenue to the palace was clofed: this manoeuvre conquered the bilhop s obftinacy, and the criminal was delivered up. The gate (till exifts, and is ready to be uled cpon another occafion. The bilhop is chofen by the chapter. Many difputes relating to his eleftion have arifen be- tween the canons and the League oi God s Houfe : the latter, in virtue ot a treaty con- traded in 1541 with th^ bifhop, protefts, that x)nly a native of the League can be promoted to the fee. This treaty was obferved until 1692, ivhen a foreigner was eleded ;, from that period the canons have difregarded the right afferted by the League, and have without refervc given ■■I * See page 241* 326 E T T E R 8i. their votes to aliens : at every new eleaion th« Sue remonftrates, but without effea. Th. preflnr biihop is Francs Dionyfius, of the ancient familv of Roft m the fyroL Thl epifcopal diftrict is only a few hundred .aces in circumference, and is furrounded by £h ialls. 1 examined the bifliop's palace : thf greateft part is modern, exceptmg a fquare toter which is fuppofed to have been conftrud. ed by the Romans'"^ It is of ilrong but clum y Sorkmanfhip, and is in no depe entitled to notice, except as a monument ot antiquity. n the cathedral 1 oblerved no one objed of curiofity, unlefs the bones of St. Lucius, richly ornamented after the falhion of Roman Ca- thX relics, ftiould be thought worthy of at. '^'^rhe ■ chapter confifts of twenty-four canons of whom fix are ref.dent. The inhabitants ot this diftria are all Catholics. Above the palace, and upon the higheft ex- tremitv of the town, is the convent ot bt. Lu- duf^t takes its name from a fmall chape dedicated to that faint, who, according to the Wends of the Romilh church, was a king of kfoland in the latter end of the fecond century. Havin- embraced Chriftianity, and being m- flamed%'ith religious zeal, he quitted his throne, and wandering fnto thefe parts built an hermi- UKe^pon the fpot where his chape now ftands and by his preaching and example convered number to a belief of the gofpel. He is ftyled the apoftle of the Grifons, and is greaUy revered as a faint bv the Catholics, while the Protettants S the town pay him not the leall venerat^n. Burnet, in his^Travehs relates, that he endea- Coire. 3*7 voured " to Jhew the good old bijioop that the lezend of Lucius was a fable in all the parts of it, but moji remarkable in that which related to the Grifons ; and that we had no kings in Britain at that time, but were a province to the Ro?nans ; that no antient authors fpeak of it, Bede being the firfl that mentions it ; and that the pretended letter to pope Eleutherius, together with his anfwer, ha^ evident charaders of forgery in it. All this, he zdds, ftgnified nothing to the bijbop, who ajjured me that they had a tradition of that in their church, and it was inferted in their Breviary, which he firmly believed.^^ As I was well aware, that my endeavours to convince the monks of the falfity of the legend would have ended as unfuccefsfully as the rea. foning of Burnet, I did not imitate his exam- ple ; but without entering into the merits or demerits of the ftory, I contented myfelf with admiring the beautiful profpeft, which was the motive that induced me to vifit the convent. The environs of Coire are delightful. The plain i? richly diverfified with corn and pafture ; the hills gradually floping to the foot of the mountains are covered with vines, which yield wine of an agreeable flavour, but not ftrong, the points of view vary furprifingly, from agreeable to romantic, from romantic to wild. The Rhine, which flows rapidly through the plain, at about the diRance of a mile, begins here to be navigable by rafts, and merchandile is tranfported toward Lindau and Zuric. ill LETTER , 328 LETTER ta. LETTER 82, Cqftk of Haldenjiein— Seminary of Literature. I RODE this evening, in company with two gentlemen of Coire, from whom I have received great marks of attention and politenefs, to Hal- dehftein, which may be called the fmallefl: fove- reignty in Europe. We pafled along the fide of the hills, and at the bottom of the rugged rocks which lead to the League of the Ten Jurifdic- tions ; and enjoyed the whole way a fine view of the rich plain, ftretching from the town of Coire as far as Embs. The beautiful verdure of the meadows, the floping hills clothed with vines, the craggy mountains, partly covered with vines, partly overfpread with wood, and partly bare, formed altogether a ftriking prof- peft. We crofled the Rhine to Haldeftein, a fmall village confiding of about fixty houfes, and proceeded to the houfe occupied by the prefent baron, Rhodolph de Salis, who received me with great politenefs, and kindly indulged my curiofity, Cajile of Haldenjiein. 3^9 curiofity, by (hewing me his little territory, ^nd ;anfwering my inquiries with great readinefs and cxaftnefs. The baron, a gentlemjin of confider^ able learning and indefatigable induftry, has formed a large collection of manufcripts relative to the Grifons, from which he has drawn ample materials for a publication, in which he is at prefent engaged. His refearches are chiefly biographical ; and his work is intended to illuf- trate the memoirs of the principal perfons, who have rendered themfelves confpicuous among the Grifons by their adions and abilities *. With refpect to the barony of Haldenftein, he informed me, that it was formerly under the pro^ teftion of the feven ancient cantons of Switzer- land; that fince the y^T 1568, it has been an independent fovereignty, under the protedion of the three leagues ; that in the middle of the fix- teenth century it was pofleffed in right of mar- riage by Joh^ de Caftron, French ambaffador to the Republic of the Grifons, and at his death, in 1565, came into the family of Schauenftein : that the male line being extinft, it was divided between two females of the collateral branches, one of whom married a de Salis, and the other an Hartmannis. In the beginning of this cen- tury the defcendants of the former purchafed the other half, and again reunited it under one per,- fon. * This work is announced as not yet fmiihed, in Haller's Schtveitxer-Billiothek, vol. II. p. 364* "^^^^ ^Y ^°}^^.'^*"S titles : I. Rhetia Ilkjlrata, cmtenant Phiftotrc ou ks prtncipaux i^'enemens de la we des Hommcs Celebrex qui out paru au pais des Grifons, 2. Rhtetia Liter aria, ou Catalogue de tons Us (lutiiirs Grifons^ de leur vie, et^ de leurs otivrages. Ihp I 33^ LETTER 82. The whole barony confifts of a fmall femicir- cular plain, which lies between the Rhine and the bottom of the Calendar, about five miles in length, and fcarcely one in breadth. It occupies alfo part of the mountain, which is fo fteep as not to be inhabited. It contains only two vil- lages, that of Haldenftein and Sewils, and the whole number of lubjefts amount to no more than between three and four hundred. The people were ferfs, or vaffals, until the year 1701, when the grandfather of the prefent baron gave to them feveral immunities. At prefent the lord has territorial jurifdidion; the exclufive privi- lege of hunting and fifliing ; a claim of two days work annually ^rom each of his fubjefts, and a load of dung from each peafant. He appoints the judge in the criminal court, receives the fines for offences, from which he pays the expences of the procefs, and has the power of pardoning, He nominates the prefident, and part of the jury in civil caufes, and in all cafes of appeal judges in the laft refort. The baron fliewed me feveral coins (truck by his predeceffors : the moft ancient was a gold piece of 161 1, the year in which the emperor Matthias conferred the right of coining money upon the baron of Haldenftein; a privilege which he ftill enjoys. The ancient caftle of Haldenftein, from which the barons took their title, is now in ruins ; but its remains are ftill vifible upon the fides of the mountain: above it is another ruined caftle called ibichtenftein, which was formerly inhabited by an anceftor of prince Lichtenftein of Vienna, and froipi which he is faid to derive his title. The prince is fo convinced of his defcent from JfHBI Cq/ile of Haldenftein, 331 the ancient poffeffors of this caftle, and fo proud of their antiquity, that he was at the expence of procuring a'ltone from thefe ruins, for the foun- dation ftone of a fuperb palace which he has built at Vienna, that it might be faid to contain fome materials of the original caftle in which his anceftors once refided. The prefent houfe, occupied by the baron of Haldenftein, was built in 15455 by James^ de Caftrio \ it is pleafantly fituated near the Rhine, and commands a fine view of the town of Coire, and the adjacent country. A few years ago the caftle of Haldenftein was converted into a feminary for the education of youth. An inquiry into the origin of this infti- tution, and the caufe of its fubfequent decline, has led me to gain fome infight into the general ftate of literature in this country. It had long been a ferious caufe of complaint, that in the whole country of the Grifons there was no public feminary for completing the edu- cation of youth ; and that all who followed any of the learned profeflions were obliged to repair to foreign ?.cademies. M. de Salis of Manchlins, and fome other perfons of the firft confequence among the Grifons, confidering this, defeft a difgrace to their country, projefted a plan for the inftitution of an academy ; and hav- ing obtained the ratification of the general diet, which afierabled at Davos in 1761, carried it into immediate execution at their own expence, with a zeal for literature which reflefts the higheft honour upon their exertions. The plan was extenfive and ufeful, and feemed well calculated to fecure fuccefs: for a fhort time it wore a flourifliing appearance ; but this prof- )eroas ^ IV iri ^ 338 LITTER Sa- Tjerous beginning was not fucceeded by any be- neficial confequences. Its decline was owing to the little countenance given to literature ; was haftened by quarrels which arofc between the profeffors; and in 1779. ^"hin the fpace of fif- teen years from its firft eftabhfhment, the initi- tution was diffolved. . The general ftate of literature among the Ori- fons is at a very low ebb. One of the rnoft learned men in this country, and who would be fir from depreciating the knowledge of his countrvmen without fufficient foundation, thus cxpreffes himielf upon this head • :— « As the adminiftration of affairs is entirely m the hands of the people, the greateft part, confidenng iio- thing but their own profit, defpife every fpecies of polite learning, and are unwilling to allow any falaries, or beftow any honours upon the profeffors ; fo that all perfons who cultivate the fciences are incited merely by the love of glory, and a difinterefted zeal." If this is the cafe, it would be chimerical to exped the arts and ici- ences to flourifli in an ungrateful foil, where they meet with no encouragement: buj even • In R/'ttia nofra rervm aAmmi/lrnlio omnium a fUht dtr p^nJ^t, cujus numcru. potior non nifi yv* ante ""/■"»,/""'• ^" lucrum aJferunt, JapU, quUqu,d de rcUquo "f"? 'r V '.T!/wC /;;,>«, L omni gloria ct commodts qu, « 'f /"^/^'w auaH rer,cie„da conlemml; nullum carum proffonlus premum, ZL -'ritum, laudrm "ullam trd>uU ; Jc ut ju, Ut^a^^ ammt, ct excolant, ex gmerofo quopwm anm, mpetu.dagan, fepJito omm alio fne, et ahfque uload eas calcar,. Etht, ii^en non cljlantibu., reperli et apud No. qu, g'"'''!fi '^'f'""* peaoris do/umenta; reperti etiam, qu. fcentmrum culturam,ac am'.rem quih/vis am, pr^tulerunt, heet .llorum hhores acme- ZriTfae c,L >p/u intereat, nee fu qui earn ab mterttu -omduel. Jpirta Hijl. Rejormat. Rhtf.c. Prgfat. amidft !%■■■ Seminary of Literaiure. iZi amidft thefe obftacles to improvement, there have never been wanting, and there ftill are to be found, men of fuperior fouls, who have de- dicated their time to the cultivation of letters ; and who merit the higheft praife, for labourmg in the vineyard without hopes of profit. The Proteftants who receive a liberal educa- tion repair for the moft part to Zuric or Bafle, and the Catholics to Milan, Pavia, or Vienna. Each community has a fmall fchool, m whicfe the children are taught to write, read, and caft accounts; but which is only open m wmter, from the 9th of Npvember to the 7th of March. Thofe parents who wifli to give their children a. better education, and who can fupport the ex- pence, muft either fend them to foreign parts, or have a private tutor at home. There is a Latin feminary at Coire for the children of the burghers, and another, inftituted in 1763, for the education of perfons mtended for the church; and although thefe eftablifhments are poorly endowed, yet they have been produc tive of fome literary advantages to the country. There is alfo a typographical fociety at Coire for Latin, German, and Romanfti : books m the latter tongue are alfo printed in the Lower En* eadina and at Difentis. LETTER ii » 33+ L E T T £ R 83. LETTER 83. league of Ten JurifdiBims—Fatzerol— Baths cf Ahenew— Davos — Valley of Pretlgau—Ma- tmtz —Majenfald— Baths of Pfeffers. X QUITTED Golre yefterday morning, in wder to make an excurfion into the League of the Ten Jurifdiftions ; but before I proceed in Iny account of this expedition, I (hall fend you a fhort abftraft of this league, from its firft foundation to its prefent independency. This league ought properly to be called, and indeed is not unfrequently denominated in^ this country, the League of the Eleven Jurifdiaions, from the number of communities of which it is compofed ; but as upon its firft union it was formed of ten jurifdidions, it ftill retains its original appellation, although one of the junf- diaions has been fince that period fubdivided 4nto two. The League of Ten Jurifdiflions. 235 The territory of this league was formerly un- der 'the dominion of the barons of Vatz, whoTe aut'hority was limited, as the people poffefled very confiderable privileges. Upon the death of Do- natus, the laft baron, the count of Toggeburg, who had married hi^ eldeft daughter, fucceeded to his pofleffions; and Frederic, one of his de- fendants, dying in 1436 without iffue, the fe- veral communities united, formed an ofFenfive and defenfive alliance, and ereaed themfelVes into a league. But although by this alliance they increafed their immunities, yet they were by no means perfeaiy independent ; for the male heirs of the count of Toggeburg obtained the lordfhip over thefe jurifdiaions, after having confirmed all their privileges, and added others. Afterwards Sigifmond, archduke of Auftria and count of Tyrol, purchafed the baronial rights. Upon his death they devolved to his heir, Maxi- milian the Pirft, and the fucceffors of that em- peror. Thefe prerogatives confifted in the ap- pointment, in feveral of the communities, of the criminal judge, in the power of pardoning, in receiving part of the fines, in nominating the principal magiftrates from three candidates, and in other fimilar privileges, which gave to the Houfe of Auftria confiderable influence in the interior adminiftration of affairs. Thefe rights exercifed'by means of a governor who refided at Cartels, but who could not be appointed without the concurrence of the league, were gradually annihilated, either by purchafe or conceflion; the feveral communities became entirely inde- pendent ; and this independence was folemnly ratified by the emperor Ferdinand the Third, foon after the peace of Weftphalia* 3 After 336 L E T T £ R 83- After about half an hour's afcent from Coire^ I entered the League of the Ten Jurifdiftions near Malix ; paffed along the vale, and through the community of Churwalden, in which the hamlets lie prettily fcattered about the vale, and upon the fides of the mountaias. I made a fmall circuit in order to pafs through the village of Fatzerol, which confifts only of five or fix houfes, and ftands at the bottom of fome very high and rugged mountains ; it is celebrated in the hiftory of the Grifons as being the place where, in 1471, the firft perpetual alliance was ratified by the deputies of the three leagues. I was accompanied to the fpot by one of the prin- cipal inhabitants, who was not difpleafed with the enthufiafm I teftified at beholding the birth- place of their liberties. The houfe is now in ruins, and the apartment which was remarkable for the meeting of the deputies no longer re- mains. Having, with the afliftance of my com- panion, traced its fite, I confidered with refpeft the fpot which was once fanftified by the ratifi- cation of the general union ; lamented that fo venerable a pile of building fliould be fuffered to fall into decay ; and felt difappointment, that there was no infcription by public authority, in order to confign together the date of the tranf- aftion, and to confecrate the place which had been witnefs to an event the mod memorable in the annals of this country. Having fatisfied my curiofity in viewing thele refpeaable remains, I defcended through Brientz to the baths of Alvenew. The fource which gives celebrity to the laft-mentioned place is fulphureous, and refembles both in fmell and liafte the Harrowgate water. The fituation of thefc Davos, 337 thefe baths is highly romantic, by the fide of the torrent Albula, at the bottom of the majeftic Alps. Having paffed through Alvenew and Ander- wifen, I mounted a very fteep rugged afcent through a thick foreft, and then purfued a nar- row path upon the fide of a rock called Zug, over a fteep precipice, with a torrent flowing beneath. This rock is moftly bare, excepting a few ftubbed firs, the remains of a foreft which was formerly deftroyed by fire ; hence it is called the Burnt Wood^ and exhibits a moft defolate appearance. At the bottom of this rock, clofe to the torrent, are mines of filver, which were formerly worked. I entered the jurifdiftion of Davos at the village of Glarus, and took up my lodging in a neat cottage. The diftria of Davos is a long plain, about a quarter of a mile broad, gradually rifing into hills, which terminate in high mountains. It is not unlike the valley of Upper Engadina, but is more fertile. Near the church of St. John there is a fmall clufter of eight or ten houfes contigu- ous to each other : in the other parts the cottages are thickly ftrewed over the plain, and upon the gentle acclivities, as in the canton of Appenzel, each with its little territory. The country pro- duces oats, rye, large quantities of rich pafture, and yields two crops of hay in one feafon. It is now the fecond harveft, and the fields are co- vered with mowers. The bordering mountains are overfpread to their fummits with forefts of fir and larch, intermixed with meadows : above them tower the rugged Alps. A clear murmur- ing ftream flows through the midft of the plain, with a gentle though lively courfe ; its banks Vol. IL Z prettily i' ■ f x. \.\^ 338 LETTER 8 n prettily ornamented with fcattered cottages, which are remarkably neat and commodious. Some are built of trees piled one upon another ; others have ftone foundations, and the upper part of wood ; others are conftruded with ftone plaiftered and white-waflied. I walked to the valley of Diefma, leading to Scampf in Upper Engadina, which is clofed at fome diftance by a high mountain covered with fnow, faid to be one of the moft elevated in the^country of the Grifons. It is called the Swart-Horn, and is part of the Scaletta Alps, which communicates with the Julian Alps, the Set, and the chain that feparates the Valteline from Upper Engadina and Pregalia. Clofe to my inn is the town-houfe, in which the deputies compofmg the general diet of the Grifons are affembled every three years. It is alfo the place of meeting for the deputies of this league, who aflemble annually in the month of May, for the choice of the Bunds Ldndammany or chief of the league, and for the tranfaOing of any particular bufinefs* It is plain and fimple,- like the people themfelves. The form of government eftablifhed in this diftria of Davos is fimilar to that of the fmall cantons, 'of Switzerland, and is entirely demo- craticali The people muft be affembled upon -all extraordinary occafions, fuch as enafting new laws, deciding upon appeals from the general diet, and raifing money. Every male at the age of fourteen has a vote. The whole colleftiyc body of the people^ however, do not meet, in order to chufe their magiftrates, who are elefted . from deputies fent by each diftrift. The adrni- niftration of affairs refides in the great council of eighty-two, and the council of fifteen, which is Davos. 339 is included m the former. The great council regulates all affairs relating to finance ; the fif- teen Superintend the police, and are judges in the civil and criminal courts of juftlce without appeal*. In criminal cafes torture cannot be inflided without permiflion of the great council. The Landamman is elefted every two years, and IS prefident of both thefe councils. This remote corner has produced feveral per* fons eminent in literature ; and particularly the two hiftorians of the Grifons, Guler and Spre- cher. John Guler was born in 1562, and died in 1637, at a very advanced age. He was remark- able for his multifarious knowledge ; and pub- liflied^ in 1616, in the German tongue, " an ac- count of the three Grifon Leagues, and other Rhetian people/' In this work, much efteemed by the natives, the author gives a circumftantial detail of the origin of the antient Rhetians, aad of their emigration from Tufcany into this coun- try under their leader Rhaetus ; traces their fub- fequent hiftory under the Romans, and in the dark ages, to the beginning of the fifteenth cen- tury, when the union of the three leagues was eftabliOied. Guler has illuflrated the hiftory of ancient and modern Rhetia by wooden engravings of medals, towns, and battles ; genealogical tables, coats of arms, and maps ; which, though rude, * It is remarkable, that through the whole League of the Ten Jupfdidlons there is no appeal from the decihon of the civil courts of julHce, excepting in the community of Alve- new. The inhabitants of that place being Catholic and Pro- leftant, there lies an appeal to the civil tribunal either of Chur- walden or of Davos. Z a. are 340 L E T T E R 83. are curious for their antiquity. The author had alfo meditated a fecond volume, on the union of the three leagues, on the topography and hiftory of the whole country, and on the tranfaftions of his own times. For this part of the work Guler was eminently qualified ; as well from his extenfive erudition, and for having carefully digefted Campel's ac- count of the Grifons *, as from the various ofBces to which he was raifed both in the civil and military line, and the repeated embaflies and negotiations in which he was employed. It is, however, uncertain whether this part was ever finilhed; and if finiftied, it is probably loft: a« Mr. Aporta has fearched for it without fuccefs in the libraries and among the manufcripts of hii countrymen f . The deficiency of this valuable performance, however, is fortunately fupplied by Fortunatus Sprecher, the contemporary, friend, and relati- on, of Guler. Sprecher was born in 1584; and in 161 7 gave to the world Pallas Rhatica armata et togata ; or the military and civil hiftory of the Grifons from the qarlieft ages to the sera in which the book was publilhed. In this work, which is a model for method and perfpicuity, the author gives the national hiftory, in ten books. The firft con- tains the emigration of the Tufcans, their fettle- ment in this country, the defcription of the an- tient Rhetians, and their tranfadions to the time * See Letter 7I. f See Aporta Hid. Refor. Ecc. Raet. Praefat.— Haller, in Bis Schwcit. Bib. No. 814. fays, that it was already prepared for the preft, bill was unfortunately burnt. f N* Anecdotes of Guler. 341 of Auguftus. The fecond comprifes the period from the Auguftan aera to the eftabliftiment of the empire of the Franks. The third treats of the Grifons under the empires of the Franks and Germans, till 1476.' The fourth details the wars of the Grifons ; namely the Swabian war againft Maximilian the Firft, and the campaigns againft James of Medici, from 1525 to 1531- The fifth comprifes the wars in which the Gri- fons were engaged under the ftandards of foreign powers. The fixth relates the union and poli- tical ftate of the three leagues, and their alli- ances with the Swifs and other powers. The feventh, eighth, and ninth, feparately defcribe the Grey League ; the bifhopric of Coire, and the League of God*s Houfe ; and the League of Ten Jurifdiftions. The tenth concludes with an account of the Valtelinc, Chiavenna, and Bormio. A fecond volume^ which appeared in 1629, under the title of, Hiftoria Motuum et Bellorum poftremis h'lfce annis in Rhetia excitatorum et gef- torum, relates the wars and troubles of the Gri- fons from 1 617 to 1629 ; a period of turbulence and difcord. A third volume continued the hiftory of the Grifons from 16 17 to a fliort time before the author's death, which happened in 1647; ^^^ has never been given to the public. Towards the extremity of the beautiful valley of Davos I came to a fmall lake, about four miles in circumference, which is remarkably deep and clear, and abounds with excellent trout. It lies at the foot of the mountains, and fupplics ^ fmall ftream, which being joined by one from the valley of Flola, and by another from that of ill if ^J^i L E T T fe R 83. pf Dicfma, forms the murmuring brook that \iraters the valley of Davos, and falls into the fibula above the bath^ of Alvenew : it is confi- iiered by fome writers as forming a fource of the Rhine. From the banks of this lake I defcended to another, about hajf a mile in circumference, that lies in a wild and romantic fituation, and fupplies a fmall torrent, which is the fource of the Lan- quart. A little further ^e paifed through a fmall pleafant plain ftrewed with cottages, which com- pofes the village of Lower Lera ; at the extre- mity of which the defcent was fp fteep and rug- ged, that I difmounted until I reached the vale pf Prctigau. I paffed through Clofter, Kublis, Jenatfch, and Schiers, following all the way the torrent Lanquart. The country is delightful, and greatly diyerfified with all kinds of produc- tions. It yields different fpecies of gr?iin, rich paflures, abundance of fruit-trees, with large quantities of flax and hemp : the latter is much cultivated, and feems to be carried to gre^t per- fei^lion. The peafants manufadurc coarfe but very ftrong linen from this hemp. The mountains on each fide are in fome parts covered with forefts ; and fo great is the abun- dance of wood, that the fields are either ftudded or ikirted with larch, pines, or beech. The hamlets are fcattered through the plain, and along the declivities of the mountains, in a very pleafing manner. The Aoufes are moftly of wood, in the Swifs mode of conftruftion, and not lefs convenient. The road through this vale defcends gently all the way. I have not for fome time vifited a more agreeable, fertile, and popu- lous diftrid. A little Mayenfeld. 343 A little beyond Grufch, which lies under fi^me bare rocks in a fertile plain, the valley of Pretigau contracts; and I went through a nar- row pafs, between impending rocks, juft broad enough to admit the torrent and the road. Ihe fudden change from the fertility of the country to the rugged barrennefs of this fpot, fuffici- ently ftriking of itfelf, was ftijl ftirther height- ened by the gloom of the evening, which ad- ded to the horror of the fcenery. The road was carried for fome way in continued afcent and defcent along the craggy precipices, fome- times above, and fometimes upon a level with the torrent. The path was fo narrow and rug- ged, that I gave my horfe to the guide, and continued my way on. foot. I foon emerged from tbi$ obfcure pafs, and, as far as I could judge by the dim light of the ftars, came into a fine and rich country, and went through a feries of vineyards to Malantz, in the diftrid of Mayenfield. The High Jurifdidion of Mayenfield is the mod lemarkable in the whole country of the Grifons, becaufe the inhabitants are reipeftively fovereign and fubjedts. They are fovereign, be^ caufe they form part of the League of the Ten Jurifdiaions, fend deputies to the general diet of the Grifons, and nominate to the govern- ments of the fubjeft provinces. They are fub- jed, becaufe, like the fubjed provinces, they are governed by a bailif fent from the Grifons, who is changed every two years, and in whom refides the fupreme authority. This ft range in- termixture of privileges and fubjediou is derived from the follpwdng caufes. The 344 LETTER 8-* The lordfhip of Mayenfield was, like the whole territory of this league, fubjeft to the . counts of Toggenburgh, and, in 1436, joined the other communities to form a league. In 1509, the prerogatives enjoyed by the count of Toggenburgh were fold, by his heirs, for 20,000 florins, to the three leagues, which confirmed the privileges of the inhabitants. In 1537, Ma- lantz and Jennins, the remaining part of this High Jurifdiftion, were alfo purchafed by the three leagues for 10,000 florins. 'I bus, while the inhabitants of all the other jurifdidlions, who came under the dominion of the Houfe of Auftria, have purchafed their abfolute indepen- dence, the people of Mayenfield and Malantz, although making part of the fovercign power, have continued in the fame ftate as at the firft formation of the leagues. The bailif or gover- nor is appointed by the communities of the three leagues in rotation ; and the inhabitants of this very High Jurifdiftion nominate the bailif, when it is their turn to prefent to that office. The prerogatives of the bailif, who refides at Mayenfield, are as follow : he appoints the Stad- vGgfy or chief magiftrate of that town, with this condition, that he muft be a member of the fenate; upon a vacancy in the fenate or little council, he nominates the new fenator ; he ar- refts criminals, examines them, and makes a compofition if he chufes ; he cannot order tor- ture or pafs fentence without the concurrence of the members of the criminal tribunal *, and * The members of this tribuoal confift of fix judges from ihc dillrid of Mayenfield, and fix from that of Malantz, three ironi Jtnnins, and two /rora Flsefch. when Baths of Pfeffer. 345 #hen they pafs fentence can pardon ; he can give a liberation, in the fame manner as the governor of the Valteline * ; he receives part of the fines for criminal offences, and a certain portion of the great tythes ; at Malantz he ap- points the chief magillrate from three candidates prefented by the people, who choofe all the other magiflrates. Both Mayenfield and Malantz have their civil courts, from that of the former there lies an appeal to the bailif. From Malantz, a fmall but handfome town lying upon the fide of an hill, I defcended into a rich plain of pafl:ure, about three miles in breadth. I croflTed the Rhine, and foon after- wards afcended into the county of Sargans, through hanging groves of larch, fir, birch, beech, and oak. From the eminence I looked down upon a fine view, on the other fide of the Rhine, of hills gently rifing from the bed of the river into mountains. Upon this chain are fitu- ated Mayenfield, Malantz, Jennins, and Flaefch, furrounded by corn-fields, meadows, and vine- yards : it feemed to me the richefl part of this country. I obferved beyond the confines of the Grifons, at a little diflance, the road f which I paflfed in 1776, as I travelled from Appenzel to Wallenlladt. Having reached PfefFers, I left my horfe at the village, where there is an abbey of Benedic- tine monks, the abbot of which is a prince of the empire, and took a guide to the baths of the fame name, which are diflant about three miles. 1 palTed through a thick forefl of beech, down a fteep and rugged path, to the houfe which the * See Letter 75. f Letter 5. abbot 3*6 LETTER 83, 11 nbbot has built for the reception of the company. Formerly the accommodations were extremely inditierent ; and the defcent into the baths was attended with great inconvenience, if not with danger. Affairs are now greatly changed : the waters arc conveyed by pipes into commodious baths ; and the houfe, which is not only com- modious, but fuperb, hangs in a mofl romantic fituation, on the fide of the mountain, amidft the gloom of the foreft, clofe to the lively Ta- mina. Being defirous of vifiting the warm fource, I croffed the Tamina, over a wooden bridge, and entered into a chafm or narrow opening in a /ock of lime-ftone, through which that torrent has forced its way. The chafm is from ten to twenty feet broad, and from two to three hun- dred feet high. In fome places it is open at top ind overfpread with fhrubs ; in fome its fides veeks or a mocth,. The chie£ of that league, in -who£e di{lri(^. the diiet is held, k prefident. for that turn, a6d has the cafting voice in cafe of equsd fuSrages. The fuprenie authority is not abfolutely and finally veiled in the diet, but in -the communities at large ; fojt' in all affairs of importance, fuch as declaring war, making peace, enading laws, contrafting alliances, and ' ♦* Sprecher, however, in his Pallas Rhsetica, fixes the union of the tUrce leagues in 147 1, p.. 228. Eliz. Edit. Mbft of the Grifon hilbrians follow Sprecher. t The age which entitles them to vote is tiot exadly the fame in all rhe comauflities ; ia feme it commcngej as early 49 fourteen. i impofing Union of the three Leagues > 35^ impofmg taxes, the deputies either bring pofitive inflruftions from their conftituents, or refer thofe points, concerning which they have no inftrufti* ons, to the decifion of the feveral communities ; fo that in effeft the fupreme power conftitution* ally refides in the body of the people, and not in their reprefentatives at the diet. All quef- tions in the diet are carried or rejefted by a ma* jority of voices : the mode of voting is as foL. lows. In all cafes where the communities fend inftruftions, the deputies deliver them to the fecretary, who reads them aloud : if thefe in* ftruftions are obfcurely worded, as fometimes happens, either through accident or defign, the diet determines by a majority in what fenfe they fliall be taken. In refolutions, which, for want of inftrudions, are fubjcft, after the decifion of the diet, to the revifal of the communities, each member is. at liberty to vote as he choofes. The three chiefs have no fuffrage, when the commu- nities fend their inftruftions, becaufe they are not reprefentatives: but in all cafes which are cither not referable to the communities, or which are afterwards to be fubmitted to the communities, they vote in the fame manner ai the deputies. It is worthy of remark, that although each de- puty has the power of bringing in any bill, or propofmg any queftion ; yet he can only com- municate it to the affembly through the medium of the prefident : the latter may lay it before the affembly, without any previous notice, at any time before its diffolution ; a privilege, which neceffarily inverts him with great influence in promoting or oppofing the fuccefs of a mo- tion. The ii I 15 35^ LETTER 84. Congrefs. 353 The deputies receive, for their attendance, a fmall falary from the public treafury, which never exceeds five fhillings a day. Extraordinary diets are convoked at the re- queft of any foreign court, who will difcharge the expence of its fittings, and upon other im- portant emergencies. This extraordinary af- fembly is fometimes compofed of all the deputies, at other times of only half the number : in the latter inftance it is called a half diet. The depu- ties are choi'en in the fame manner as at the elefti- on of a general diet, and its powers are the fame. The ariftocratical party is ftill further ftrength- cned by the power delegated to the congrefs ; an affembly formed by the three chiefs, and three deputies from each league. In the Grey League thefe deputies are nominated by the Landrichter ; in each of the other leagues they are chofen by rotation from the feveral communities. This congrefs generally meets in February or March, and always at Coire, for which realon the chief of the League of God's Houfe is prefi- dent : its office is to receive the votes of the feveral communities, relative to the queftions referred to their deliberation at the lafl diet, and to communicate to each of them the refult of the general decifion. Whenever the anfwer of a community is not clearly worded, the congrefs determines the meaning of that vote by the ma- jority ; and this circumdance gives an opening to much intrigue. For, if the leading perfons in any community do not chufe to form a pofitive decifion, they have it obfcurely worded, pro- vided they are certain that a majority of the con- grefs will affix that interpretation which they defire. Tfcis affembly fends out decrees to the filbjea fubjeft countries : if fuch decrees are agreeable to the governors, they put them into execution ; but if otherwife, and they can fecure a majority at the approaching diet, they rejed: them, al- ledging that congrefe has exceeded its power. The three chiefs, as well as each of the other members of the congrefs, receive as a defray- ment of their expences 54 florins, or about ;^. 4. The three chiefs aflemble regularly three times in the year at Coire, and upon any emergency may be alfo fummoned by the chief of the League of God's Houfe. The principal meeting is in the month of May, when they write circular let- ters to the feveral communities, concerning the queftions which are to be laid before the general diet. All the circular letters are written in German, and are tranflated into Italian or Ro- manfli by the notaries of the diftrift where thofe languages are fpoken. All public afts and do- cuments are compiled in German : at the diet all bills are propofed in that language ; but the de- puties, who do not underftand German, may ipeak Italian. Thofe theorifts, who are fo anxious to reform the Engliih Houfe of Commons by transferring to the people at large the eleftion of their repre- fentatives in parliament, might, on examining with attention the features of the Grifon diet, fondly imagine, that an annual affembly, in the choice of whofe members every male of the ftate ffiould have a vote, and which, in all material occurrences flio,uld be liable to be directed by its conftituents, muft necejfarily be the pureft fanc- tuary of general freedom. In this inftance, however, their conjectures are by no means con- fonant to faft and experience ; as corruption Vol. U. a a and ;'*l I! ''J 354 LETTER 84- and influence arc not in any national parliament more confpicuous than in the diet of the Gri- fons. For although, in general, thofc deputies, ar» nually chofen by every male* of a ftated agd are fuhje^l to be controuled in their votes by written orders from their conftituents^ yet they frequently contrive to elude this reftriftion. Sometimes the inftru£i:ions are drawn up, with the confent of the community, under the fole direftion of the deputy himfelf ; at other times an exemption from pofitive inftruftions, and the power of vo- ting at his own pleafure, is purchafed by the deputy from his conftituents. Sometimes again the deputy, although h^ may not have intereft fufficient to gain either of thefe points, has ftill fufficient addrefs to get his inftruftions fo ob- fcurely worded as to admit a doubtful interpre- tation. By various intrigues of this kind the greatefl: part of the deputies ultimately acquire the power of voting as they pleafe ; and as they chiefly ob- tain this power by corrupting their confl:ituents, mod of them in return fell their vote to the lead- ing members of the diet.. For mofl queftions are carried, and mofl: caufes decided by bribery. Nor can it well be otherwife, when the eleftors are pcrfons in needy circumfl:ances ; and the members, who have purchafed their feats, arc not themfelves exalted by their pofleflTions above temptation. Thus then the leading members fccure an un- bounded fway in the affairs of the diet. But ftill it fliould feem, that whatever influence they may obtain by corrupting the deputies; yet as that aflfembly itfelf does not in many cafes decide finally, Congrefs. ^Si fifially, they could hot acquire the fanfe autho- rity in thofe concerns, which riiiift be referred to the determinafiori of the communities at large. Here at leaft we might expe<3 the un- Biafled ferife of the majority of the people. But it may be uhiverfally remarked, t^at the dele- gation of deliberative authority to the people at mfgj6 unavoidably tends to introduce an a£lual, th6ugh not an acknowledged ariftoeracy.- For a nUfnefdus popiiface fummoned to determine upon political, ieg'iflative, and judicial queftions, fat abtrve their comprehenfwns^ muft neceifarily refigft thenrfetves to the dfreft'ion of more informed! meii, dpecially when aided by the recommendation of" fuperior weafth. As the deputies are generatly the chiefs of thdfe conimunities which tftev re- pfefent, they fnuft of courfe have ibe principal influehce, and eafily fThd n>eans to incline tl^c opinion of t*he people to the fid-e which tkey h^ve efpoufed* In faff, without this ariftocrati- ca! influence the excefs pf freedom would often degenerate into sknarchy, and public delibera- tions would be attended with endlefs difputes and factions. If therefore corruption and ariftocratical influ- ence alone diminifli factions and prevent anarchy in fo poor a country as that of the Grifons, and in a republic fcarcely known among the nations of Europe ; te what a dreadful excefs muft the fame evils prevail, if the fa??ie mode of eleding, and giving inftruftions to, members of parlia- ment, fubfifted in a kingdom like England ; where riches and luxury are continually advan- cing with fuch rapid ftrides ; whbre the moft important political and commercial debates are agitated \^ithout reftraint ; and where the deci- A a 2 fions !•"■ I i :IH 35^ #• LETTER 84. fions of public aflFairs frequently affeft the peace and interefts of all Europe ! Theoretical reafoners may, indeed, attempt to prove, that the beft method of preventing corruption is to augment the number of elec- tors, from the chimerical idea, that large num- bers cannot be bribed. But if we appeal from uncertain theory to more certain experience, we Ihall find, that this argument is contradifted by the hiftory of all ages. Among the Grecian re- publics, thofe commonwealths in which the ma- giftrates were chofen by the people at large^ were the moft venal. Among the Romans, the mod cfFeftual means which Julius Caefar, the moft able politician of his age, employed to fubjugate his country, was to extend the privi- leges and votes of Roman citizens to all the inhabitants of Italy. The members of the Polifh diet *, which is no lefs venal than the diet of the Grifons, are chofen by needy and numerous elec- tors, of whom far the greateft part poffefs no property ; and whofe numbers^ inftead of pre- venting, neceffarily tend to increafe influence and corruption. ♦ See Travels into Poland, Ruflia, &c. Vol. I. B. i. c. vi, & viii. LETTE R Hants, Z57 LETTER 85. Valley of Sopra Selva — Hants — Truns — Difentis- Taveteh» Impatient to return to England, after fo long an abfence from my friends, 1 yefterday morning quitted Coire, and pafled by Embs, and over the bridge of Reichenau, which I again flopped to admire, as it boldly projected over the Rhine. I then rode along the fide of the ipountains which leparate the Grifons from the canton of Glarus, went through Tamins, and left Flims on my right, fituated about a quarter ©f a mile from the road, in a pleafant plain. The houfes of thefe towns are not fcattered like thofe of Davos, but fl:and in feparate clufters, like the burghs of Eng^dina, Having traverfed thick forefts of pines, and a very wild country, richly diverfified with grain and pafture, I de- fcended to the deep bed of the Rhine, and crofl^ed it to Hants. Ilants, the capital of the Grey League, is a ftnall town, contjiining about fixty houfes, an4 partly • i ^ 353 'LETTER 85. partly furrounded by walls ; a circumftance which ferves to diftinguifh it, as it is the only walled town, excepting Coire, among the Grifons. It is alfo remarkable for being the place, where the general diet of the three leagues affembles every third year. 'The adjacent country is fertile in every fpecies of grain and pafture. The points of view are uncommonly fine, exhibiting a fmall plain (kirted by cultivated mountains, and backed by a ridge of barren rocks which bound the val- ley of Lupgnets. The Romanfh, which is fpoken in thefe parts, differs confiderably, both as to pronunciation and orthography, from that af llngadina. By the afliftance of fome perfons to whom 1 had letters of recommendation, 1 pro- f:ured fevera] books written in the dialed: of this league; thefe, in addition to others which I ob- tained in Engadina, have fo confiderably fwelled my travelling library, that if I continue to in- creafe the colledlion, I muft: hire an additional horfe for the purpofe of carrying my baggage of information. This traclof country, ftretching from Reich- ^nau to the mountain of St. Gothard, is called the valley of Sopra Selva, and is the moft po- pulous part of the Grey League. On quitting Hants 1 purfued my route at the foot of the mountains, through a plain covered with pafture and forell by the fide of the Rhine, which is rapid and fhallow. Afterwards 1 paffed through a rocky country, continually afcending and defcending through large trads of foreft. I croffed the Rhine feveral times during the laft four or five miles : that river formed repeated catarads, as I judged from the roaring iound, for Trum. 359 for the evening was fo dark, that I could not diftinguifli any objeds. I arrived very late at Truns, remarkable in the hiftory of thi« country as the place where the independence of the league was firft ratified, and an alliance concluded between the chiefs and the communities. 1 obferved an aged oak, which, according to tradition, is the fame tree under which the three chiefs confirmed the liberties of the league; and n^r it a chapel, whofe walls are painted with a reprefentation of the cere- mony. My curiofity alfo led me to the town-houfe, in which the diet of the Grey League is annually aifembled. The room is well adapted for the purpofe, and is handfomely painted with the arms of the feveral Landrichters, beginning from thofe of John of Lambris, the firft perfon ap- pointed to that office when the Grey League was formed. From this place of its meeting the afr fembly is always called the Diet of 1 runs. It confifts of the fame twenty -feven deputies who are appointed for the general diet of the three leagues, the two Landrichters, the abbot of fXi- fentis, the reprefentative of the Houfe of Auftria, as baron of Retzuns, and the Cau de Sax. All affairs relating to legiflation, politics, and ex- penditure, which concern the general intereft of the league, are agitated in this affembly; and the queftions are decided by the majority of voices. At the fame place is alfo affembled a court of appeal compofed of fixteen * deputies, and the Landrichter, * Thefe deputies are taken from the eight Hi^h Jurifdic- lions of the Grey League, in tlie following proponi<«ns : ' I A From 360 L E T T E R 85. Landrichter, who has the cafling voice. It hears and decides in the laft refort all civil caufes, above a certain fum, which are brought by ap- peal from jhe decifion of the civil cpurt? in the feveral communiries of the Grey League. Difentis, from whence 1 am now writing, takes its appellation from an abbey of that name, whofe abbot was formerly fovereign over this part of the Grey League, and who, although his pre^ rogatives have been gradually diminished, yet, as one of the chiefs of the league, ftill pofTeffes ho inconfiderable influence in the general admi- niflration of affairs. At the diet of Truns he not only votes, but has fuch weight, that few acls can pafs in oppofition to his will. In the court of appeal, although he is not prefent, he may be faid to polTefs four votes, as the four deputies from the High Jurifdiftion of Difentis are generally nominated through his intereft. Nor is his afcendancy confined to the Grey League ; by the nomination of the Landrichter every third year, he fecures four * votes in the From Difentis Grub Lugnets Wakenlberg Rhcinwald and Shams Ketzuns — — Tufis, Mafox ■ 4 2 2 i 2 1 I I 16 * He propofes for Landrichter three candidates, frorp whom one is nominated by the deputies, but the iutter always appoints the perfon he recommends ; and as the Landrichter appoints the three deputies to the congrefs, and h himfelf a meri;ber of the fame afTembly, the abbot may be juftly faid in that year to inHutnce/oi»r votes in the congrefs. congr^f^i ?' Difentis. •6; congrefs for that fitting, and has alfo much power in the general diet of the Grifons by his influence over the deputies of the Grey League. His pre- fent revenue is very fmall, fcarcely amounting to £. 100 per ann,; in addition he receives apenfi- on from the Houfe of Aufi:ria, intereft:ed to fc- cure his concurrence. He is chofen by the Bene- diftine monks, who compofe the chapter; and is a prince of the German empire. The abbey, which is fituated upon the fide of the mountain, is a large quadrangular building, and makes a magnificent appearance, as it over- looks the village. I was much difappointed that the abbot was not in the country. I had the pleafure of meeting him at Coire, and found him a perfon of confiderable information. I no lefs regretted his abfence, becaufe hp had in his pof- feflion the key of the archives, which are faid to contain feveral curious records of high antiquity. The monks who politely accompanied me over the abbey were able to give me little intelligence. Befides the great church, they carried me to a fmall chapel, which is eflieemed the mofl: antient in the whole country of the Grifons. Having been previoufly informed, that books in the Ro- nianfli tongue, for the ufe of the Roman Catho- lies, are frequently printed in this abbey, I pro- cured feveral from the monks, particularly a vo- cabulary of the Romanfli fpoken in the valley of Sopra Selva. Difentis is a fl:raggling village lying apon a gentle declivity, which flopes gradually from the foot of the mountains to the banks of the Rhine. The fides of the mountains are clothed with groves of firs and fmall birch ; the lower parts yield rich pafl:ure, a fmall quantity of wheat. ]il 1 'It' <:;« ! ■■»ik I '|W« I I'll I 'I'M > 36* LETTER 85. rye, an 200 florins, fine of - - - J A married and (ingle perfon - 150 Perfons unmarried - - 100 A pound flerling is equal to about 15^ Grifon florins. Before I 3«8 LETTER 86. , Before I clofe the account of the courts of judicature, it may be neceffary to mention the Straffgerkht *, or public chamber of juftice, which was eftabliflied upon particular occafions, and in the mod alarming crifis of affairs, by the confent of the general diet ; and which, during its fittings, had jurifdiftion over the three leagues. It was chiefly held in cafes of high treafon, and IS thus juftly defcribed by Burnet, " There is a part of this conftitution that is very terrible, and which makes the greateft men in it trem- ble : the peafants come fometimes in great bo- dies, and demand a chamber of juftice from the general diet, and they are bound to grant it always when it is thus demanded, which comes about generally once in twenty years ; commonly this tumult of the peafants is fet on by fome of the mal-contented gentry, and generally there are a great many facrifices made. This court is compofed of ten judges *'" out of every league, and twenty advocates, who manage fuch accufations as are prefented to them ; this court is paromount to law, and *' afts like a court of inquifition, they give the queftion, and do every thing that they think neceffary to difcover thf truth of fuch accu- fations as are prefented to them \ and the (( (C cc €€ CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC ♦ Pafch.d, the French ambaffador from Heory the Fourth to the Grifons, gives, in his Rhatica Legationey the following definition of a Straffgericht : Straffgerichtcunif efi is bominum, pauc'ts exceptis, impnitoruniy ac truculentorum confejfusy qui rebus iurbidis a motets et lafci'viente, multitudine educitur in hoc, ut fencc. Notwithfbnding the precaution of letting out the fupcrtluous water by flood-gatc^, there is reafon to apprehend, that the% breaches will be frequent ; and that the recent labours may be rendered as incffcdual as thofc of the Spa- niards. But 382 LETTERS;. But fhould the canal continue in its prefent ftate, and the navigation not be interrupted ; yet the advantages v^rill hardly compenfate for the expence of making and keeping it in repair. The commerce between the Grifons and inhabi- tants of Milan is fo extremely contrafted, that if all the merchandife which pafTes between thefe two people was conveyed along the canals, the tolls and duties would be very inadequate to the expence. But the navigation from the lake of Como to Milan is attended with fo many difficulties, that the greateft part of the merchandife is fent by land, as the mod commodious and lefs hazard- ous way. The current of the Adda is fo rapid, that the veffels cannot be towed up without great expence and delay, and is in fomc parts fo extremely dangerous, that boats are not un- frequently overfet. The only perfons, there- fore, who forward their merchandife along the Adda and the canals to the lake of Lecco are the contradors who furnifh the Grifons with corn and fait, and who are compelled by the government of Milan to fend thofe commodities by water. And when it is confidered that Milan re- ceives from the Grifons only planks, (tones for building, and coals, but fupplies them with corn, rice, and fait ; the articles of export evi- dently exceed thofe of import ; and the naviga- tion from Milan to the lake of Como is of more confequence than that from the lake of Como to Milan. The canal of the Adda, therefore, which has only facilitated the inland navigation from the Grifons to Milan, and not from Milan to the Canal of the Adda. 383 the Grifons, though a work of extreme diffi- culty, and redounding greatly to the honour of the fovereign who completed it, will fcarcely produce advantages equal to its original cofl and frequent repairs *. ♦ The curious reader is referred to the Abbe Frifi^s ac- count of the Canals of the Adda, and Trezzo, and of the other navigable canals in the Milanefe. See PauU Frift Opera^ Tom. ii. Dei Canall Navagibili di Lombardia, ^to. Lik, ii. Cap. 3, 4, & 5. LETTER 3^4 LETTER 88. L E T T E R 88. Alliances of the Grifons with tlie Swifs Cantons — France — Venice — and the Houfe of Aidjiria. A HE alliances of the Grifons with foreign powers come next under confideration. The Three Leagues, though always efteemed allies of the Swifs, yet are not, ftrictly fpeaking, in confederacy with all the cantons. In 1497 the Grey League, and in the following year the League of God's Houfe, entered into a perpe- tual treaty with Zuric, Lucern, Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, Zug and Glaris. Although the League of Ten Jurifdiftions was not included in the fame treaty, yet it was afterwards declared that, in confequence of its conneftion with the other two leagues, it fhould be entitled to the lame afliftance and good offices. The Three- Leagues are in clofe alliance with Bern and Zuric, to whofe mediation they have frequently had recourfe in points of difagreement. By thefe treaties the Grifons are called allies of the Swifs ; Alliances of the Grifons. -385 Swifs ; and, in confequence of a requeft from the particular cantons, with which they are united, would, in cafe of invafion or rebellion, be fup- plied with fuccours from all the Swifs Republics. The Grifons contraded the firft alliance with France in 1509 with Louis the Twelfth, and in 15 1 6 were comprized in the treaty of perpetual peace between Francis the Firft and the Helvetic body. Since that period they have, as occafion offered, renewed their private confederacy with the kings of France ; but they were not compre- hended in the late treaty of Soleure, concluded between Louis the Sixteenth and the other ftates of Switzerland. The king of France maintains an envoy in this country, and has two Grifon •regiments in his fervice *. In 1 707 a treaty was formed between the Gri- fons on the one fide, queen Anne and the United Provinces on the other, for permitting the free paffage of troops marching into Italy. This is the only alliance by which the Grifons, as a par- ticular ftate, are connefted with England. Our court formerly had a minifter in the country, but for fome time the Englifti envoy to the Swifs cantons refident at Berne, has tranfafted bufmefs with this republic. The Venetians, for the purpofe of procuring the free paffage of the Valteline, had often foli- cited an alliance with the Grifons ; but their projeds were always defeated by the influence of the Spanifli monarch, who poffeffed the Mila- nefe ; nor were they able to effe£lUate the ac- complifhment of their defign, until the Spanifli * It is probable, however, that they have fince contraded a feparaie treaty with France. Voj^. II. C c branch I 386 LETTER 88. branch of the Houfe of Auftria became extindi in the perfon of Charles the Second. Soon after that event, when Milan was the objed: of con- tention between the emperor and the French, the Venetians obtained the confent of the Grifons to enter into a treaty of alliance offenfive and de- fenfive, which was ratified at Coire the 1 7th of December, 1706. By this accommodation it was ftipalatedj among other articles on the fide of the Venetians, to pay an annual penfion of 7 1 1 Spanifh doubloons, and to furnifh the Gri- ions in time of war with a thoufand Venetian ducats per month: in return, the Grifons agreed to permit the paffage of the Venetian troops through the Valteline, and to make a road lead- ing from Morbegno over the mountain of St. Mark into the Venetian territories, by which ac- commodation the merchandize might be con- veyed to and from Venice to Germany without going through the TyroL This treaty, concluded for twenty years, was to continue in force for the fame additional pe- riod, unlefs one of the contrafting parties (hould withdraw before the expiration of the firft term j but though obtained by the Venetians with much trouble and expence, it was not long fulfilled by cither of the negociating powers. In a few years the Venetians omitted the payment of the annusj penfion, and the Grifons negleded to make the road over the mountain of St. Mark. The two republics, however, continued upon terms of amity ; and the Venetians, foon after the expira- tion of the forty years, defirous of renewing the treaty, offered to difcharge the arrears of the penfion, if the Grifons would open the propofed communication over the mountain of St. Mark. For Alliances of the Grifons i 387 t^of this purpofe an envoy was difpatched to the Grifons m i y^g^ and no promifes were fpared to promote the negociation : it failed, however through the influence of the emprefs of Germany! A ^']fT ^^^^^^^ the propofals of Venice, and ftill^ further alienated that republic bv the capitulation of Milan, In confequence of this conduft the Venetians were fo incenfed as to banifh the Grifons who were fettled within their territories ; and all connexion is now interrupted between the two republics. The treaties with the Houfe of Auftria as fo vereigns of the Milanefe, remain to be confidered^ u-'u^'u^ my purpofe to mention any treaties' which the Grifons contrafled with the dukes of Milan of the houfe of Sfor^a, or thofe by which I hihp the Second and his fucceffors acknowledg- ed their claim to the Valteline, Chiavenna, and Bormio ; but I fhall begin with the celebrated alliance, or as it is called, the Capitulation of nnH Vlri^S \^''f ^' '^ fuperfeded all others, and eftabhfhed that clofe connexion between the Grifons and the Houfe of Auftria, which has lince continued with little interruption. The following are the principal articles in this capitulation, concluded between Philip the I Vth king of Spain, as duke of Milan, and the Three Leagues: An hereditary and perpetual peace between the two contrading powers. Weekly fairs to be eftabliftied in the neiVh- bouring towns of the Milanefe, in which Vhe Onions may purchafe grain, and alfo eniov a tree trade, for the purpofe of importing and ex. porting all kinds of merchandize and arms, upon paying only the accuftomed duties. ' ^ * C c ^ A free 388 LETTER 88. ' A free paffage through the territories of the Grifons for the Spanifli troops, with a referve, that no more than a company of 150 infantr)^, and a troop of 60 cavalry (hall march through the fame day. Free paffage of the Grifon troops through the Milanefe, upon condition that they do not march againft the allies of Spain, and that more than two or three companies do not pafs at one time. The king may levy at his own expence, in cafes of neceffity, a body of troops not exceed- ing 6000 nor lefs than 2000, for his fervice againft all his enemies, except the confederates of the Grifons, and particularly the republic of Venice. All Grifon troops in the fervice of any ftate or fovereign, intendmg to attack the territories of the king of Spain, ihall be immediately recalled; and all officers and foldiers, who enroll them- felves in any foreign fervice, fliall be forbiddeD to invade his majefty's territories. If the Grifons (hould be engaged in war, the king obliges himfelf to furnifh, within fifteen days, 2000 infantry and 200 cavalry ; and if the Grifons prefer affiftance in money, to pay 1000 fcudi * per month as long as the war lads ; alfo to fend into the country of Chiavenna fix pieces of campaign artillery, with ammunition fufficient for the fervice of the war. No troops fhall be allowed to pafs through the refpedive territories to the disadvantage of the two contracting powers. To each league the king promifes an annual ptnfioi3u-of 1 500 fcudi ; and alfo to pay for the • A Milanefe fcudo = to about 4s. 6d. 2 education Alliances of the Gtifons. 389 education of two ft:udents from each league at Pavia or Milan, befides a donation, of fixty fcudi to each fludent. All antient alliances with any other powers are permitted to remain in force on both fides, and on the part of the Grifons, the continuance of their treaty with France is particularly ftipulated; they promife, howeVer, thit they will not renew it in cafe of a rupture between the two crowns ; and if renewed, they will declare at the fame time, that it is to be fufpcnded during fuch a rupture, and that they will not for the future contraft an alliance with any foreign power to the prejudice of this perpetual peace. If either parties fhould be attacked, the other, without any regard to the aforementioned ftipu- lations in favour of their antient allies, is bound to give affiftance againft fuch invaders, excepting however on his majefty's part, the German branch of the Houfe of Auftria ; if that Houfe fliould engage in war with the Grifons, for the maintenance of its rights in the territory of the Grifons. The caufes which gave rife to this capitulation, as well as the articles refpe£ting the Valteline, having been already related * ; it will be necef- fary only to remark, that the Spaniards guaran^ tied to the Grifons the poffeffion of their fubjeft provinces, and to the fubjedts the confirmation of their privileges. In cafe of any diffention be- tween the Grifons and their fubjeds, the difpute is to be referred to the mediation of the king of Spain. This treaty, figned at Milan on the jd of Sep- tember, 1639, by the marquis de Xegnes, go- * Letter 74t vtjrnor 390 LETTER 88. vcrnor of Milan, on the part of the Spanifh king, and on the other by the deputies of the Three Lean:ues, was preferved inviolate, and a good underftanding maintained between the con- trailing powers, until the extindion of the Spa- nifh branch of the Houfe of Auftria in the perfon of Charles the Second. During the war of the fucceffion, which followed his death, the Mila- nefe frequently changed its mafters, until it was fecured to the emperor Charles the Sixth by the }>eace of Utrecht. Charles had no fooner firmly eftablilhed his power in his new dominions, than he turned his attention to the Grifons, and pre- vailed upon them to renew the capitulation of Milan. One of the principal arguments which gave fuccefs to his negociation, was the promile, not only of continuing the annual penfion, but even of difcharging the arrears, which amounted to twenty-nine payments. This new treaty, in which the German branch of the Houfe of Auflria fucceeded to the place of the Spanifh, was concluded on the 24ih of Oftober, 1726, by count Daun, governor of Milan, in the name of Charles the Sixth, and the deputies of the 1 hree Leagues. It confirmed and ratified the antient capitulation of 1639, with a few modifications and additions, of which the principal are the following ; The duties upon corn purchafed by the Gri- fons in the Milanefe are lowered two-thirds. ITie tenth article in the firll treaty, by which all Grifon troops in the fervicc of any ftate de^ figning to attack the territories of the Houfe of Auftria are fubjeft to immediate recall, is an- nulled ; and the Grifons are free to ferve any foreiirii Alliances of the Grifons. 391 foreign prince in time of war without incurring the breach of this capitulation. The number pf ftudents educated at the ext. pence of the emperor is increafed to twelve. - On the 8th of February, 1763, this heredi- tary league was renewed by count Firmian, mi,.' nifter plenipotentiary, in the name of the em-, prefs of Germany as fovereign. of Milan, and the deputies of the Three Leagues, By this treaty the capitulations of 1639 and 1726 are ratified, and ferve as the bafis of the prefent union 5 they 3ire alfo augmented by the* following articles. The emprefs renounces all right to the lake of Chiavenna, together with a fniall portion of the adjacent territory, and cedes them in perpetuity to the Grifons. The limits between the Milanefe and the tcr- ritory of the Grifon* are accurately fixed. In return for this cefGon, the Grifons agree to creft no fortifications upon the ceded teiritorr, impofe no new taxes upou the tianrport of mer- chandize, make no new roads; and according to the former capitulation, no troop$ fliall be permitted to pafs to the prejudice of the (Ute of Milan. The emprefs promifes to obtain from the pope 0n abolition of fcveral ecclefiaftical privileges in ^he Valteline, highly detrimental to fociely ; alfo %o prevent the biihop of Como from granting ecclefiaftical privileges tothofe vho, without en- tering into orders aiTume the clerical drefs, an<| arc thereby entitled to the immunities of the church; alfo to correft fcveral other abufes, which render the clergy of the Valteline inde* pendent of fecqlar authority, and in civil and criminal 392 LETTER 88. criminal caufes only amenable to the bifhop of Como. ^ The weekly fairs for the purchafe of grain are abohlhed, and in their ftead the Houfe of Auftria agrees to fupply the Grifons with a certain quan- tity for themfelves and for the fubjed countries according to the current price of corn in the Mr' lanefe. '^1 he duties upon merchandize exported from the Milanefe are lowered, and the cuftoms both la that country and in the territory of the Gri- fons are eftablifhed upon a permanent footing, for which purpofe a table of the duties is annexed to the treaty. At prefent the Houfe of Auftria direfts all the affairs of the Grifons with the moft unbounded authority. That power has acquired this fway by regularly difcharging the public penfions, by holding the leading members of the diet in its pay, by being a guarantee of the ValteUne, and mediator in all the difputes between the Grifons and their fubjefts. LETTER Languages of the Grifonu 393 LETTER 89. Languages of the Grifons— Particularly the Ro^ manjh—lts Antiquity— Origin— and two princi^ pal Dialeds. ^ T HE languages of the Grifons are the Ita- lian, German, and Romanfh. The Italian, which is a jargon fimilar to the Milanefe diaka, IS fpoken by the inhabitants of Pregalia and Pufchiavo, and in the vallies of Mafox and Ca- lanca* The German is fpoken throughout the whole League of the Ten Jurifdidions, a few villager excepted ; in the League of God's Houfe, « Avers, Coire, and the four villages ; and in the Grey League, at Splugen, Cepina, and other villages of the Rheinwald, at Valts, in the valley ot St. Pedro, at Tufis, Reichenau, Feldfper^, lamins, Meyerhof, Verfam, and Valendros. Some of the earlieft and moft authentic writ- ers upon the Grifons have afferted, that the na- tives 394 LETTER 89. fives of the Rheinwald fpeak a Celtic idiom, a language neither German or Romanfli, but more fimilar to the former ; although they arc entirely fuirounded by people of a different tongue, and are neither contiguous to, nor have any great in- tercourfe with, the German inhabitants. From this remarkable circumftance they are led to conjefture, that the natives of the Rheinwald are defcended irom the Lepontii, a Celtic nation, and confidered as the original inhabitants of this country before the influx of the Tufcans ; and they ground the proofs of this affertion upon the numerous names of manv caftles which feem to be derived from a * Celtic or German origin. This hypothefis, however, refts upon a wrong bafis, and is grounded upon two miftakes. For in the firft place, the language of the Rheinwald is German ; and fecondly, although the inhabi- tants of this diftriiS are immediately furrounded . by perfons fpeaking the Italian and Romanfh, yet they are within half a day*s journey of Ron- caglia, Tufis, and Furftenau, where German is the common language. It is more probable, iherefore, that the Rheinwald was peopled by a German colony, which penetrated into thefe re- gions in the darker ages, when the Germany iflued from their forefts, and fpread themfelves * Cluverius and other authors hare erroneoufly fupporc4 iht Gothic and Celtic nations to have been the fam/f and their , language to have given rife to the Teutonic pr German : but the learned translator (Dr. Percy, bifliop of Dromore) of Mallet's Northern Antiquities, has eftabiifhed, beyond a doubt, that the Cekic and Gothic nations were originally different, and that there was not the leall affinity between the languages ; the Celtic having given rife to the old Gallic, Britifli, Lrfe, kc. &c. and the Gothic to the German. See Tranflator's Preface to Mallet's Northern Antiquities. over Languages of the Grifons. 395 over Europe. With refpehy, inftead of a ^j for AJexan * For it is needlefs to mention feparately the Romanlh l|)oken in the valleys of Muflfter and Surfet. t To pive an inftance of this difference. The inhabitants of Lower Engadina pronounce the a open as we do in war, while thofe of Upper Engadina ttfe an ^ in- (lead of an a. Star Stxr Judicar JudicM* Armaint Anoxux Our Or Chiauflk , Chioflft ftood Languages of the Grifons. 405 ftood by both, are printed fomewhat differently in the two diftrids. Before the introduftion of the reformation among the Grifons, the Romanfh was efteemed fo barbarous a jargon as to be thought incapable of being reduced to grammatical form *. It is no wonder, that the monks, whofe intereft it was to keep the people in the groffeft ignorance, Ihould have favoured this opinion; but it is a matter of aftonifhment, that the mod learned among the native laics, and fuch intelligent fo- reigners as \ Tfchudi and Stumpf, fhould have fupported a notion fo contradiftory to common fenfe. For although it is an evident axiom, that all living tongues may be reduced to certain principles, and configned to writing ; yet the barbarifm of the Romanfli was fo univerfally prevalent, that no attempt was made to write it before the fixteenth century. The perfon to whom the Grifons owe the firft produftion in their native tongue, was John de Travers ; 2^ man who blending the charafters of the foldier, politician, fcholar, and divine, performed the moft effential fervices to his country ; by his va- lour in arms, by his flcill in negociation, by cul- tivating and protedling letters, and by favouring and affifling the introduction of the reformed religion. ♦ Aporta, Ub. 2. p. 403. f Rhatica lingua tarn perplex a ettmpedita ejl, utfcribi neqiieat; unde omnes titer a ab antiquis confeda, iMhne Jcnptafunty et quas hod'ie parant, Germamce fcribi procurant. See UTchudi Alp. RhjEt. p 9. — And, as Philip Galicius exprefles himfelf in his preface to Campel's Pfalter : — Parce chla 'Ig noas languack m<£ nun a'ts Jlatt fcritt, ne cir crett brick ch^ell s* poajfa Jcrie^er infyn avaunt brick b'kar amis, chia Ug faimper dtng da n.gyr cun hunur nummad huom Ser Joan Travers da ^uQt% haa ell impr'nm fcritt in Ladin la noajla guerra, 2 'Vhis 4o6 LETTER 89. This refpeftable perfon, of a noble and opu- lent family of Zutz in Upper Engadina, was born in 1483 : before the eighth year of his age he was fent for his education to Munich, and from thence into Tranfylvania. Being there feized with a defire of travelling, he remained abfent thirteen years ; and returned to Zutz about the 28th year of his age. Highly diftin- guiflied * for integrity, learning, and abilities, he acquired univerfai efleem ; and was raifed to every honour which his grateful country was ca- pable of beitowing. Indeed fuch was the refpccl generally fhewn to his fuperior talents, that no affair of moment was tranfaft^ by the Republic of the Grifons in which he was not confulted. His acquaintance with foreign languages, his knowledge of the world, and the politenefs of his addrefs, rendered him the fitteft inflrument to negotiate with foreign powers ; and he always acquitted himfelf with honour of the truft which was rcpofed in him. In a military line he greatly fignalized himfelf as commander of the Grifon forces againii James of Medicis, for the rapidity of his movements, his perfonal valour, and cau- tious conduft ; and by laying fiege to the for- trefs of Mulfon f , he brought the campaiga to a fpeedy and fucccisful iflue. • I He qu'idcm anno 1 1S3 not us ^ bis vallis Te/linif Guhernatoi'y Epifcopalis Auldi Curtuor^ plurimh ad exteros Principts kgatio- r.lbus ciarusj in P atria -vtTO omnibus honoris gradihus na^us, ertfdiiionet dexteritaU, et au3orilate uuus in Ratia Jiordat ; ut Rtipublica lumen, fidus, et decits morito habealur, Eo virtutes quia mvltam ipji conciliavcrunt famam, nulla in Republicu momenti agt'hatur cauja, ciijus vel arbiter non cjjct 'vcl covjdium nun adiG' larefur^ Iffc. Ajiorta, torn, i p. 229. f Situated near the lake oi Como, not far from Grave- dona. He Languages of the Grifons. 407 He was greatly inftrumental in forwarding the progrefs of the reformation. Although inclined to favour the new doftrines, yet he was never hurried away by a mifguided zeal. Averfe to renounce the religion in which he had been edu- cated, without the Itrongeft convii^ion of its fu- perflitious tendency, he ftudied the controverfy between the two feds, and weighed the argu- ments on both fides with the utnioft deliberation; but he no fooner became a profelyte to the re- formed opinions, than he (hewed himfelf as zea- lous in promoting as he had previoufly been cir- cumfpedious in adopting them. Nor did he only favour the reformation by his example and authority, but he even promulgated its doftrines. As few natives of Engadina were qualified, by their learning and theological knowledge, to preach in the Ladin, the progrefs of the reforma- tion was confiderably retarded. For thefe rea- fons John de Travers, who had critically fludied and written in his own tongue, condefcended to inftrui^ the people. Having obtained the per- miflion of the church, he alcended the pulpit *, and explained in the mod perlpicuous manner the Chriftian dodrines. His diliinguiflied abili- ties, his exalted rs^nk, his venerable age, and * Stupuit tunc ordo Evangelicus, Jlupuit tota Ratia content- plans fximlum inclitumque Here a, inter Ratia geniis optimates^ diu prinripem habitumf fummis etianiy patrne honoribus, debito virtuifhus premio infignitum, fenio nunc confedum fuggejlu in publica facra ttde cnnfcenjo, populum docercy ct alia Ecclefiafcica ikumay quando res pofcebat, operam Juam cum ordinarto Minijiro conjungendoy et laborem participando , fummo audientiuvi applavfu vndique ex locis circa vicinisy integris turmis ad ejus fermones tiudiendos conjluentibusy obitit, Aporta, torn. I. p. 239. his b 4oS LETTER 89. his amiable charafter, drew from all quarters a numerous audience; while his difcourfes, deli- vered with a noble fimplicity of eloquence, made the deepeft impreflion, and never failed to in- creafe the number of profelytes. This refpe^l- able man finiflied his career, which had been fo ufeful to his country and fo honourable to him- felf, in 1563, and in the 80th year of his age. His writings in the Ladin, which gave rife to this digreifion, were, a poem in rhyme, defcrib- ing the war of Muflb ; many fermons ; and fe- veral facred dramas in verfe. The example of committing the Ladin to writ- ing was next followed by Philip Salutz, called Gallicius, one of the earlieft reformers among theGrifons; who, in 1534, tranflated the Lord's prayer, the Apoftlcs' creed, and the decalogue, into the dialed of Lower Engadina ; and not long afterwards, from the Hebrew into the fame language, fome chapters of Genefis, and the Alhanafian Creed: which w^ere diftributed in manufcript among the natives. Huldric Campel wrote feveral facred dramas, in the reprefentation of which he himfelf af- fifted ; and alfo turned fome of the pfalms into verfe. But thefe compofitions, being only to be found in manufcript, were too fcarce to be of general ufe; and James Tutfchet, of Samada, more known by the name of Biveronius, was the firft ■who ventured to publifh in his native tongue. That celebrated reformer finding, from expe- rience, that the want of religious books in the colloquial language was a great obllruftion to the progrefs of the reformation, printed at Puf- chiavo. Languages of the Grifom. 409 chiavo, in 1560, a fmall work*, which con- tained an alphabet, the Lord's prayer, the Apo- ftles' creed, the Ten Commandments, and feve- ral occafional prayers. This little publication being well received, was followed by a work of the greateft importance, a tranflation of the New Teftament f . !n 156a Huldric Campel printed the pfalms | of David, and other hymns done into verfe, for the ufe of the reformed churches : this publica- tion afforded a ftriking proof of the author's ge- nius and tafte, that he was able to give fo much harmony of metre and variety of rhymes to the language in fo rude a ftate, Befides the benefits which this pfalter produced in a religious light, it was alfo ferviceable in a literary view, as it contributed to diffufe a tafte for poetical compo- fition among his countrymen; and convinced them, that divine truths might be inculcated in a pleafing diftion. Mr. Aporta, in his excellent Hiftory of the Reformation among the Grifons, fays that the ♦ I poflcfs a copy of this fcarce work, reprinted at Zurlc, 1621, but without the title page. At my requeft the learned M. Aporta favoured me with an accurate catalogue of all the books printed in the Romanfti of Engadina and of the Grey League, accompanied with many critical remarks, which I have made ufe of in this letter. I once propofed to have printed this catalogue : which gives the titles of 82 books printed in the Ladin, and 26 in the Romanlh of the Grey League ; but relinquifhed it on confi- dering that it would have fwelled this work too much ; and would be uninterefting to the generality of my readers.^ 1 fhall, therefore, only iafert, at the end of this letter, the titles of the Bibles, and of thofe which were printed in the i^tl^ century ; together with a vocabulary of the language. t N^i- t N^'3- languagq i< 4IO L E T T E R 89- language of Biveronius is (like infant diakas) fo rude and unpolifhed, both as to the mode of expreflion and orthography, that it is fcarcely imderftood at prefent ; that Campel greatly re- fined it, and endeavoured as much as pollible to reduce the words and orthography to a fimilarity with the Latin, which was the original mother tongue. Hence we may obferve, that the pub- lications of Biveronius afford the moft curious fpecimen of the Ladin, as it exifted m its moft soitient ftate, when it was chiefly a colloquial language *. . • u The poflibility of writing and printing the Ladin was no fooner proved by fuch authorities, than the prefs teemed with produdions calculated to 'diffeminate the reformed opinions. Ihele publications, however, not excepting even the performance of Campel) as well as all which appeared in the 15th and in the beginning of the 16th centurv, are now obfolete; and, without a aloffary, almoa unintelligible to the natives themfelves, who have not made them the objeft of their particular ftudy. , |.n , No verlion of the whole Bible was publiihed in the Ladin before the year 1679 : it was printed at Scuol t, iiT^ the dialed of Lower Engadma ; and republifhed, with various explanations and a new index, in 1743- B^fides the tranflation of the New Teftament by Biveronius, which is obfolete, a new \ verfion was printed in 1640, in the dialed of Upper Engadina, and is in com- * I (hall infert, as a fpecimen of his language, In the end «f this letter, the ApolHes' Creed, publiihed 10157 1. N'^ 2. . . mon Languages of the Grifom. 4 1 » mon ufe. But the natives of this diftrid have no other verfion of the Old Teftament than that of Lower Engadina. As it would be uninterefting to fend you a dry catalogue of the feveral publications in the Ladm, 1 {hall therefore only remark in general, that ex- cept a hiftory * of the Grifons, compiled from various authors by Aporta, the books in this tongue folely treat of religious fubjeds. Some of our theological trads, particularly written by our divines of the laft century, are tranflated into their language ; of thefe I obferved, among the lift of books in my poffeflion, Bayley s Pradice of Piety and Baxter on Vows. The Romanlh pf the Grey League remains to be confidered. ^ , . .. , n. • The earlieft publication in this dialed is a ca- techifm t, tranflated from the German by Daniel Boniface, paftor of Furftenau, and printed in 1601. It was foon followed by a metrical ver- fion of feveral pfalms t, accompanied with other hymns, publiftied at Coire in 1 6 1 1 . The author of this ufeful pfalter was Stephen Gabriel, a native of Vettan, in Lower Engadina, and paftor of Hants : he was a man ot confider. able learning; and his zeal for the reformed re- lie-ion expofed him to the fury of the Catholics, who, in 1620, plundered his houfe, burnt hi« library, and hanged him in effigy. Gabriel hav- ing efcaped to Zuric, drew up, during his re- tirement, an account of that coiitroveriy between the Protcftaiit and Roman Catholics, wnich in thofe turbulent times nearly excited a civil wiir * N' -7. N' 8. X N^ 9. i axong t,i LETTER «9- ^o„g ,h. Gtita This p»\™y™*',i-''j; im in the Roman*, »a» pnM«<' " 'i"' " .T, L .as anr«ei=d in 1630 by a Roman SholicpriA i» *= fame tongue: a work S'=n rf .h "cWU o^mrnfoab/.. r««™d „ lunts where he paiTed the remainder of h» day. " SX^ f»— 'f '; "? Fi'siriho Twork S ; W, a. the inhabitant, of *= Cr/Uague were moMy iS^O-^^ S^ S:;rXUTS Jion ta the di.Ua of En. «1; tremarkable, that this -f »"' ""*"* &itnrr:5;ed\c5;r/r: tne iani,uci^ expeneaced ; of trS SpeSo^ns the tote ^n this idiotn ool ^eat pafns to fettle the orthography, and Irranse the grammatical conftruaion. Thflift of books publifhed in this dialea are, for the moft part, far inferior, both as to num- £ and merit,' to thofe muten m the La^'" , f„r pxceotinff the two Gabriels, the orey > uVe ha tonilhed few men who have dif- ^ngSed themfelves by fuP-- 1-!JK,3 „,, A complete tranflation ot the t B'^le was not pen before the year .7.8:" was pubhlhed at Cijire, Languages of the Grlforu. 4' I roire at the expence of the clergy of the Grey Sefand dedicated by the P"nter ^o George \Z%k who fent in return a prefent of fifty lineS This fum being delivered to the pnn- S and claimed by him' as his own property, ofiLed a law-fuit between him and the edi- Ss The latte" however, although in equity SeV had the fole right, were never able to ob- tjun any part of the donation. POSTSCRIPT. » N° 10. ■^ N' iJ. 4»4 LETTER 89- POSTSCRIPT. Vocabulary of the Romanjh of Upper Engadim. God Heavens Cloud Rain Hail Mouth Nofe Eve Head Ear Hand Foot Body Hair Bread 1 Dieu Wine Ccl, pro- Water nounced Chcl Navla Plovgia I Earth Tempeda Wood Boucchia Tree Fire Air Naes iOelg, pr. like the French CEil Teila Araglia Maun Pe r Chuerp, ( or, Courp Chiaoe Pain { Horfe Dog Lion Tiger Man Woman Huiband Wife Girl Son Daughter Soldier Poet Vin Ova Foe, pr. like Feu Aier Tearra God Baeich Chiuvalg Chiaun Liun Tigra Horn Duona Marid Muglier Matta Filg Figlia Sudo Poarta Verfes Vers To love Amxr To liften Tadlsr To belie veCrair Togo Or To come Gnir To feign Finger To beat Batter To (lay JGreat Little Fat Thin Black White Red Blue Green Yellow Brown IGrey Amazzare Grand Pitfchen Grafs Megier Nair Alb Coatfchen Blow Vert Mel 1 en Brun Grifch f 2 5 4 5 6 Un Duos Trais Quater Tithinch Ses 7 Sett J. fOach, in Lower \ Engadiaa Ott 9 Nov 10 Defch 1 1 Undeili 12 Dudefch, &c. 20 Vainch 30 Trenta 100 Tfchient 1000 Mille. Titles Romanjh Tongue. 4tS Titles of the earliejl Books, and of the Bibles printed in the Romansh. N-' ,. The trandatlon of the New Teftament by Bireronlus. V^NMSaint reflamalnt da nofs Signer J efu Chnjit Prau out uierfes una gllmyra a mes pu et una hufih a mteu pafs. Squtjcho '^•^n" i? Another fcarce work, printed by the fame author ia ,,7X,;nd which is in my i^ffeffion, comammg a catechifo. .nd uaraphrafe of the Lord's Prayer m quelhon and aniwer, Tear^ the^foTlowing title : Una cuorta et fuormada intmmi.r bears tne s cugmojche Deus et fe d fues. • jj„P^J,rnus dah fainch facramainsy tuot tres 'Is Pre'^ Sr:/S 't;;. ^r this book 1 man .nfertthe Apille, ., delZrra Et t Jefum Chrljlul Jes Juliet fig nos ^gnur / V iTes concepieu iflg Sainch Spiert, najcheu da la Vergwa hiaZ l2ro%oi Folio Pllato. cruclficUo fnuorj, et appul.u }^:» LTZrZ itfu.a a, Jill. .->.. fa..,ae,nna. '^T '^ Title of Campers tranflation of the Pfaln,., fecond edUion Vn Cvdefch Da Pfalm, tram our d^'gl ^ud.uJMr eaition. ^ J. J ,■■' p i^a quai alchtunas Spintualai i TJTZTT 7%' Ctnftl a S4ch -.n l4iad.na dfu,M. ''t^tc!£X^ Rev. John Planta, of S.n,ada UnCurrt Nu^ai-vcl e Bf.gnms Catnh,f«,vs,ch, cuniatn la p^ taln^ da I'inhra Cretta, e -valra fr.. -Jua^ne. PlanUn, da iia.nlon, ,n.n,Jar ^. 4i6 "LETTER 89- ta Bnfckm da J^fui Chrlfti. Sq ,]lf^- , 1^%^°"^/' -rl « tide-page of the laft edition. Ig Ver Suh.da P''''^J"^2's ^ \L una curta Sumsna da la Cardunjlha ddsPa'r^lf" Prophets, adJpoJlels: Item, An^aquonls Pfalms da Da'«,d,a CaLn/spiritLiass Item. Jn.aquonlas Uratmus, Tras Slef- fan Gabriel, W''S from the Top of the St. Gothard to Milan- 1 he ^LZJnine Ucy-Belli».one-Locar^^^^^^ and Lake of Lugano-Lago Maggtore-Boro- mean IJlandi. SIR, Little is wanting to complete your defcrip. ^Kafm I now endeavour to fall up. i ouui <" inexperience muft ferve as excufes for errors and nmSions Happy if this hafty flcetch may exc.te SS curTofity of yourfelf, or any other traveller dually Sigenl whofe obfervations may amufe equally uiic b ' ^j^ ^ ^i„ch I here »d mftru^ mankmd. ^^^ ^ ^j^^ your rrkf ; routf ^£h would afford fatisfadion I to the curious of all nations who take you as * The higheft parts of the principal Alpine paffes are ufually occupied by a fmall plain or bafon ; L the St. Bernard, the Gemmi, the Splugen, and the St. Gothard. From the fummit of the St. Gothard I commenced my route on the ad of Auftuft, 1786. 1 followed the courfe of the Tefino, which you mention in your letters : it paffes by the Capuchin convent, and is foon atter ioined by two other rills from the neighbouring Lumains. Near this fp^^ the Levantme vadey begins, and Switzerland, properly fo called, may be faid to terminate. The defcent on the fide of Italy is much fteeper, and the views are more ravage and piaurefque, than in the afccnt from Urferen ; and the road is conduaed ^^'th equal Ikill The majeftic fcenery is heightened by the Tefino tumbling in an almoft uninterrupted ca- uraa ; fometimes pent up in a narrow channel, or piereiBg its way through the remams of Ava- lanches, mil unmelted though fully expofed to Z rays of a meridian fun. Thefe enormous maffes obftrua the road ; and workmen are con- tinually employed in promoting their diffolution; as the ageregate of unmelted fnows, for a few fummersf would bar all communication between Switzerland and Italy : with fuch difficulty are the few paffes kept open ! After defcending rapidly for three miles thro this fcene of defolation, bounded on all fides by precipices, or impending rocks, the "ver foam ng over blocks of granite, the ruins of the fur- rounding mountain!; we croffed the P.n/. Tr.- ;;:,/., or^rembling bridge; where the view en. Ee 2 urged. ^2o LETTER 9°- larked, and extended over a verdant valley CrJS' r^ai a?ronMrom the middle Sf Gy to Oaober, when 300 horfes tranfpon leekly the cheefe from the vanous parts of 'tt'SS we found comfortable accommoda- tiom: that village confifts on^ ^/j^^- f «tg fpated at the entrance of a pafs, capable or oeing Send dvvith eafe againft the -hole force o Llv A wall and gate are added to its natural S'gthVbut their principal ule is to prevent con- traband tra.le, and' to exaa alfo a taall toll for he merchandize which paffes that way. For half 1 leaTue from hence is a fucceflion of ftrikmg and oSc fcenery ; the perpendicular rocks fcarc^^^^ u siftordine room for the deep road, and tram nW Srs of the Tefmo, which, thundermg ^rock whofe fpan and boldnefs of execution :^ight vie^ith the'boafted, becaufe better known, ^ rSo't'fceridence of the bailif, nominated by the camon of Uri. Heremains in office four . vlars and his power is almoft unlimited. Un- SS.e infurr^aions in ^J -; '^T.^t perfea liberty. Giornico, ■yj'al Levantine. 42 1 Giornico, called by the Germans Irnis, is fa- mous for the viaory which 600 Swifs gained, in 1478 over the troops ot the duke ot Milan, amounting to 15,000 men ; a viftory which en- fured the Swifs an honourable and advaiitajreous peace. In this neighbourhuoa we nrR perceived the effeds of a fouthern fun, and a ieffer eleva- tion above the fea, by the frequent appearance ot vineyards, and the walnut and chefnut-trees ot a very large fize ; the girth of feveral among the latter was not lefs than thirty feet. iVt Polegio, this bailliage ends. The Levantine Valley, or Valle Levenima, is fuppofed to retain, by its name, traces of the Z.^- pontii, the amient inhabitants of the furrounding regions. Its length, counting from the fummit of the paffage on the St. Gothard is about eight leagues : the breadth very inconfiderable. 1 he lower part iS extremely populous, rich m paitu, rage, and produces much hemp and flax. In the neighbourhood of fuch lofty mountams, its climate muft be variable, and liable to frequent rains. In order to prevent thefe rams from da- maging their crops, the inhabitants fufjpend and dry the corn and grafs on feveral bars fupported by two high poles about fifteen feet alunder. The houfes are entirely wood, and have exter- nally the appearance of Swifs cottages ; but a neglea of cleanlinefs proves the vicinity and greater fimilarity to the Italians. The lefino is here joined by the Bromio, a torrent which takes its rife in mount Uccello, or the Vogeliberg, near Splugen ; a bridge over it is the boundary of the two bailliages of the valleys Levantine and Polefe, and leads into that of Riviera. The vallev now becomes perfeaiy flat, and of courfc ' ' fubiect 412 LETTER 90* fubiea to violent inundations ; the few villages are fcattered on the fides of the fteep mountains; below all is defolate. Offogna, the refideace of the bailif, confifts only of a few houfes. The country foon improved ; the ground rofe genily from the bed of the river, when we came m fight of the beautiful town of Bellinzone, fituated m a delightful plain, encircled with antient walk and battlements in good repair : to the right, rife majeftically the ruins of an antient caltle ; to the left, feparately embofomed in trees, are the caftles of the bailifs of the three regent can- tons, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden. About the beginning of the fifteenth century, the Swifs, at peace with the Houfe of Auftna, feem firft to have been ftimulated with the ambi- tion of extending their dominions towards the fouth. In 1410, the whole Helvetic body, ex- cepting the canton of Berne, paffed their natural barriers, plundered the town of Domo d'Ofcella, and the adjacent country, and returned laden with fpoil to pafs the winter in their humble cot- tages. Elevated by fuccefe, the enfuing fummer faw them again defcend into the plains of Italy, and ravage the dutchy of Milan, then fubjeft to the Vifcontis. They again retired, but without attempting to make a fettlement. Bent on thefe enterprizes, we are not furprized, that, in 1422, the three original cantons purchafed the town of Bellinzone from its owners the counts of Sax ; or that Philip Maria, duke of Milan, exerted himfelf to prevent from falling into their hands - a town fo important, from its fituation and na- tural ftrength, to check their inroads, and cover his dominions. Having, therefore, taken pof- feflion of 'it by force of arms; a body of 8000 Swiis Beirmzonc. *^3 Swifs paffed the Alps. The f<>r^s 6f b^tW dlis met; the Italians were led ^n by Carmag^ S a bloody battle enfued, of which both fides daimed the vWy ; the Swifs retired wuh a ftandard taken from the enemy, who remained mailers of the town. ,. ^ . "^tSpting fome inroads, nothing .f nnporU ance wis aiain tranfaaed to the fouth till t^ year .466, when Galeazzo Mam Sforza the Tew duke of Milan, formed an alhance with his Tranfalpine neighbours ; the firtt article was the Son of the Levantine Valley to the canton of Uri, for which he was annually to receive three hawks and a crofs-bow. Yet t«n years after, then Charles duke of Burgundy threatened the S deftruftion of the ^epubUc by hts powerful nvafions, the treacherous duke of Milan fent a body of triop^ to his iffiftance who were inter- c^tld in the Vallais and worked. On the dc- S and death of Charles at the battle o Nancy, Sly again refolved to make an attempt on BeU £oS ; but as the feafon was top far advanced to undertake the fiege, a body ^f 6=°^^f /^i. folved to winter at Giornico. ^'^//"^f ^j efted an army of 15,000 men, and attacked hem in their entrenchments but was repuHed •,h the lois of 1400 of his beft troops. The :;oun afnie" weretnriched with the fy^ih; but no regular attack was made on the objeft of their %tm'this period, the wars in which the Sw^ enLsed no ways concerned themfelves : they fa- 3ced their blood in foreign quarrels, and .the contend ng parties made ufe of their fupertor va- f?n attempt or eftablifti conquefts m Italy. 'r,5"o,le ?hree cantons obtained what they 424 L E T T E R 90- had fo long contended for. The inhabitants of Bellinzone, vexed by the frequent changes in the Milanefe, voluntarily furrendered to them. The French, when they had conquered the dutchy, in vain reclaimed it ; the Swifs retained pofleflion ; and the feven Italian bailliages were formally ceded to them by Maximilian Sforza, in gratitude for their having reinftated him in the ducal feat. Courted or feared by all parties, thofe valuable territories were confirmed to them by the French, and finally by the Houfe of Auflria. The bailif remains in ofHce two years ; he is nominated alternately by the three cantons, and is generally removed from Riviera the pooreft, to Bellinzone the moft lucrative of the three go- vernments. An appeal lies from his decifion to the fyndicate, and from that court to the three cantons. In ecclefiaftical affairs, the inhabitants are cognizable to the bifhop of Como, excepting three parifhes. Mod of the natives undcrftand Italian, but the language is a corrupt German. The interior of Bellinzone by no means cor- refponds with its external beauty and fituation ; the ftreets are narrow, and the houfes ill built. We continued our journey fouth on the banks of the Tefmo, which we crofTed in a bad ferry; that river is here increafed to a very confiderable fizc, by the numerous additions it has received in its courfe, particularly by the Mufa, a torrent which takes its rife in the St. Bernardin, and flowing down the Val Mafox, forms a jundion above Bellinzone. The valley is level, and laid walle by the numerous torrents : the road runs along the fides of the hills through continued vineyards. Wc proceeded at the foot of the weftern Locarno. 425 weftern chain of hills ; a fimilar ridge bounds the view to the Kaft, both clothed to their lum- mits with woods of chefnut and v^alnut-trees, half concealing frequent Ipires and numerous hamlets. Beiore us the view extended to a part of the Mi- lanele over the lake of Locarno, or Lago Mag- giore. Having reached its north-weftern extre- mity, we coalled its banks* for two or three miles ; and arrived at the town from which it derives its name. Locarno contains about 1500 inhabitants. Tart of the town is built on piazzas in form of a crefcent with two wings ; in front is a row of trees, and the public walk ; the old part of the town is dirty, and the ftreets are narrow.^ It con- tains three convents, and a fmall Francifcan mo- nailery, perched on a rock overhanging the val- ley, and commanding a fuperb view of the lake, and its magnificent boundaries. The canopy, in the church of the Capuchins, deferves to be mentioned for its beautiful execution : it is of ftraw-work, and almoft rivals velvet and gold fringe. Of the four tranfalpine bailliages which belong to the twelve cantons, Lugano holds the prin- cipalrank; Locarno the fecond. . The governor or commiffary, as he is called, is fent in fuccef- fion by all the cantons except Appenzel ; he re- mains in ofBcc two years ; in criminal aflairs his decifion is abfolute, in civil an appeal lies to the annual fyndicate from the regent cantons, and from thence to the Helvetic body affembkd at the diet. The emoluments of this poft are not great ; but the profits unfortunately depend too much on the virtue of the man, as they arile principally from fines exaded for criminal of- fences, 'ihe people eniov fonie privileges aiui ^z6 L E T T E R 90. hold an annual affembly in the month of Janu- ary, in ^vhich they elea twenty counfellors; ?7elve out of the town, three from Afcona the remainder from the country at large. Ihele counfelors have the charge of watchmg over he. interefts of the republic, as far as does not mter- fSe with the fuperior powers, of fetthng the public expences, and of raifmg the fupphes paid To the governor. Thefe baiUiages do '^ot ra.fe corn fufficient for their domeftic confumpt on^ thS grain is furnifhed by treaty from the dutchy of Milan, and is weekly imported from Livino : vUlage on the oppofite Ihore Ihe chief food of the%eafants is a cake inade ^uh mat^e ^^^ millet : the inhabitants on the banks of the lake are well fupplied with fi(h. The fiiheries give employment to a great num- bet of hands, although they arc m fome degree fu"jea to m'onopolies. In the -nth-/^ and lune, from 200 to 2501b. weight are taken ?n a d^y ; trout of 4olb. and perch of 91b. are ^""inVcV^tKoclrines of the reformation had maJe cSderable progrefs in thefe parts; but the Catholic cantons, at the general diet, ob- taLd an dia, that t'hofe who xefufed to return to^he antient f;ith fiiould quit the town and pro- vince. Numbers, thus driven from their natve rountrv were received with open arms by the cro7ofT.Tic, which was benefited by their inTary, and o;es to them the introduftion of their filk manufactures. »i,» Ut*. and . Locarno once was fituated on the lake, and had a port capable of receiving large bark^ at nJefent it ftands at the diftance of a quarter of a SeTa c rcumftance owing to the accumulation S fand brought down by the torrent Maggia Locarno. 427 The little voyage from hence to Magadino is deliffhtful : we croffed the upper part ot the lake in an hour; the banks of this noble piece of water rife boldly, and are well wooded ; Lo- carno forms a fine objeft, to the fouth of it is the opening into the Val Maggia terminated by mountains covered with eternal fnow. 1 he fpo where we landed confifts only of a few fcattered houfes, for the purpofe of receiving the mer- chandize, which is put on fliore and lent on horfes to Bellinzone. Old Magadino is more inland, and owed its origin to the vicinity of the lake, the retiring of which has caufed "s rum: from thence the road winds up the fteep fides of the mountain Cenero, through woods of walnut and chefnut trees, interfperfed with oak and holly; on the fummit of the paffage is a fmall oval plain, the boundary of the bailhages of Locarno and Lugano. Our defcent lay between the hills, through luxuriant and verdant yalhes, neopled with numerous villages, and rich in every produdion. The vines, laden with fruit, are conduaed in elegant feftoons from tree to tree ; a conftant variety of fcenery, foftened by the glow of a fetting f""' and next filvered by the moon glimmering on the diftant lake height- ened the charms of our journey through this Elyfian country. . . r u r 1 •♦ ;e The fituation of Lugano u delightful: it is built round the gemle curve of a bay, and backed bv a fine fuccefiion of hills, rifmg m gentle fwells to a confiderable he.-lith : inlront, a bold mountain clothed with foreft projefls into the lake, of which a noble branch extends to its right and left. To that fpot boats of every fize are continually pafling and repalhng, its bafe be- I 428 LETTER 9- intr perforated with cantine, or caverns, to which the inhabitants lend their meat, and all forts of provifion, where it is kept untainted lor feven or eight davs, and the wine preferved with- a de- licious CGolnefs. Enjoying the advantages of a fouthern cUmatc, it has few of its inconvenien- ces : the heats are moderated by the lurrounding hills and the cool breezes from the lake. It is no lefs flickered from the Alpine blaits, 'A'hich, chilled bv the neighbouring fnows, would other- wife defccnd with violence, and dellroy the tem- perature of this equal climate. Olive, almond, and all the fouthern fruits, ripen here to perfedion. . Lugano is the emporium of the greateft part of the merchandize which paffes from Italy over the St- Gothard, or the Bernardin. At the end of autumn, the Swil's mountaineers bring down numerous herds of cattle for iale ; and return with lefs bulky commodities. The town con- tains about 8000 inhabitants. Mod of the houfes are built of tuf-ftone : the refidence of the capi- tano, or governor, is a low building ; on the walls are the arms of the twelve regent cantons. On an eminence above the town. Hands the prin- cipal church, remarkable only for the beautitul carving in Itone round the doors, and rofe win- dow, and for the delicious profpecl from its ter- race.' In the cloifters of the Recollets is a capital piclure attributed toLuvino: their church is hand- fome, and theikreen is ornamented with a painting of the Paflion by the fame mafter. The palace ot the Marquis de Riva contains a few good pidures. . We then embarked upon the lake of Lugano *, • The lake of Lugano is alx)ut 190 feet perpendicular hiohcr than the Like of Como rnd Lajro IvLig(;iorc. The two kitnientionea lakes are of the fame Lvei, awd about 240 leet hlpher than the city of Milan. Fcrl Jona Ji Milan, p. 5. Jul. ¥rjl Dei Cjiuili A^^x/J. dl LonUntla. 4:0, p. 465. ^ which Ijola Bella. 429 which is about twenty-five miles in length, and from two to four in breadth ; its form is irregu- Ur and bending into continued fmuofities. 1 he own forms a fine objed, backed by the amphi- theatre of hills ; the banks on each licle bordered with a fucceffion of gardens and villas. Atter heine rowed to fee the noble branch pointing northward, we croffed to the Cantine, and con- tinued our voyage under the precipitous rocks, whofe bafes are loft in the depths of the lake. We landed at Porto a fmall village in the duchy of Milan, fituated at its fouthern extremity. ^ From this point, an arm of the lake points northward, and difcharges itfelf into the Lago Mageiore, by means of the river ^riia. It is fcarcely poffible to imagine a more perfeft or rreater variety of beamies than this noble piece of water affords ; the vaft over-hangmg woods, the bold precipices, the tranfparency of the wa- ter, unite to form a fcenery in the higheit de- cree luxuriant. , , From PoTto the traveller may obferve, with fatisfaaion mingled with compaffion, the ftrong contrafts effeaed by the influence of a free and of an arbitrary government: the borders of the lake fubiea to Switzerland ftudded with a fuccefllon of villages, houfes, and gardens ; thispart of the Milanefe defolate, and almoft J?J|Pe^pl^^- .. On leaving that village, the hills begin to di- minifli, and in the courfe of three miles are to- tally loft in the rich plain of Lombardy. Varefe is entirely compofed of the feats of the Milanefe nobilit^^ The principal palazzo is the refidence of the dutchefs dowager of Modena-, the gar- dens are laid out in the old tafte, the artificia mount commands a fine view over a rich flat country ill 'IP. I 430 t E T T E R 90. country, a fmall lake, and bounded by the long chain of Alps. In the magnificent faloon "e £e tolerabL portraits of the fa-1- of M^^^^^^^ and Auttria. The emperor, as duke of Milan, W exerted himfelf in the fuppreffion of con- vents a rich Francifcan monaftery has fallen a facrifice to his plans of reformation. The road fVom hence to Laveno a fmall burgh on the I. ago Maggiore is varied, and the country very rich ; to the right on an eminence, is San Sacramanto ; to the left we pafTed near fome leffer lakes. From Laveno we were rowed Ss the delightful paffage to J<^^ B^^^^,°- of the famous inchanted illands fo Particularly deicribed, and with fuch pleafure, by B.fhop BurnS a^d Keyfler ; the latter can compare ,t to nothing but " a pyramid of ficeetn^aU orn.. minted -mith green feftoons and Jlowers. The S of mankind alters with the fucceffion of ears : I therefore confidered it only as a monu. m'nt of expence and folly: terrace "fes ^bo^c ^»;race in regular gradations, bordered with flower-pots, ofgiganfic ftatues 0/ h-Jes go^;.' and goddeffes. The whole is ra.fed "Pon ^^che. » and the foil has been brought from he fliore to cover them. The palace is magnificent, and coSains a profufion of marbles and pamtings : the lower part of the houfe overhangs the lake on one fide; where feveral apartments are fur- Xd in th; ftile of grottos ■ the floors, pil arj and walls, are inlaid with various-coloured ilones, marbles, and fhells ; the view and the coolneVs united make this part a delicious fum- ™\fanTthingjuftly gives this ifland the appel- latlon of enchanted, it is the profped from ^the Arona. 431 ,prrace The gradual diminution of the moun- 3ns from the regions of eternal fnow to the Th plain, the finuofity of the lake, its varied biks, and the bay of Marzozzo bounded by vS WUs, the neighbouring burgh of Palanza, Ind more diftant view of Laveno the numerous villages, the Ifola Madre, on which is a palace of the Borromean family, and another ifland iith filhermen's huts, form a delightful affem- blage. Thefe iflands, and the whole weftern coaft of the lake to the baiUiage of Locarno, was ceded to the king of Sardinia, by the late em- prefe queen, at the treaty of Worms m confi- Seration of the affiftance which fhe had received from that monarch. , , , , i. • We re-entered our boat, troubled by the im- portunities of the beggars whofe miferable huts Soining to the palace difgrace the ifland. Be - geSta 5 a neat\illage, containing fome excel- K houfes, and a handfome church. From thence we continued our voyage down the lake. The traft of country to our right, from near fa- lanza to ten miles fouth of Arona, pays a fmall contribution to the Borromean family for feigno- rial riKhts. That family receives a toll for the merchandize which pafl-es g""« the privilege of fiftiine, and appoints eleven judges m the re- fpedSe Wes ; but an appeal lies from their decifton to a fuperior. nominated by the kmg of Sardinia, and refident at Palanza and agam to Turin. The riches of this opulent houfe are now increafing from the produa^of the gold mines, which lie amongft the moft "'acceffible parts of the mountains, thirty miles from Mar-. eozzo. Above Arona is a femmary for fort) boys, founded by San Carlo Borxomea; near it 432 LETTER go- is the coloffal ftatue of that faint, fixty feet in height, placed on a pedeftal of juft proportions. He is reprefented in his cardinal's habit ; the right hand extended, a book under the left arm. The ftatue is of bronze, was caft at Milan, and brought in feparate pieces. San Carlo, nephew to Pope Pius the Fourth, was born near this fpot ; he paflfed with early credit through his ftu- dies, and the dignities of the church ; was made a cardinal, and archbilhop of Milan. His cha- rity and pious exertions, during the plague which ravaged his diocefe, the fubjeft of fo many fine piaures at Milan, iniure him more general renown than his canonization in 1610. Arona is a fmall town, with a neat port ; above it rifes a ruined caflle, which, in the ear- lier part of the Milanefe hiftory, feems to have been confidered as a place of the utmoft import- ance ; at the period when the great contefts arofe between the families of Vifconti and Torriani^ this caftle was the perpetual objeft of capture and reprifal. Otho Vifconti, the archbiftiop, who at length gained the afcendancy, was twice repulfed and driven from hence. Two promontories pro- jeft into the lake at this fpot ; the eaftern is crowned with the caftle of Anghiera, which gives name to this valuable province, which m 1397, to gratify Galeazzo, the fecond duke of Milan, was erefted into a county by the emperor Wen- ceflaus, and has fmce been transferred to the king of Sardinia. On doubling the promontory of Arona, the lake again enlarges, and forms a bay ; the banks are very low. Soon after en- tering the Tefino we landed at the dirty village of Sefto ; hired another boat, and were hurried with great rapidity down that river, between Naviglio Grande. 433 high banks of gravel, to the commencement of the Naviglio Grande, the great canal which forms the junftion between the Po and the Adda, cal- culated not lefs for conveying merchandize and wood to Milan, than for benefiting the neigh- bouring country Avith partial inundations, and for the purpofe of laying the rice fields under water. Its breadth at firft is great ^ but narrows as we advance, and the ftream becomes almoft a dead water *. If bad weather and other circumftances had not prevented me from extending my tour, I had purpofed vifiting the bay of Margozzo, Domo, d'Ofcella, Varallo, and the gold mines in its neighbourhood ; an excurfion, which, from the reports I have heard, could not fail of affording the higheft fatisfaftion to the naturalift, and thq lover of nature in her great features. * AcGordiiig to the Abbe Frifi, the length of the Naviglio is B6,ooo braccia, or 14 Italian miles (60 to a degree) ; its breadth at the entrance 70, which gradually diminifhes to 20 ; and the perpendicular height of the f^ll of water is 58 ; at firft 5 braccia per mile, gradually decreafing for tlie M twelve miles, until it is no more than one braccio in a mile ; then increafing for the five next miles to a little more than five braccia in a mile. — See Canal. Nav'ig. d't Lomb. C. i. A Milanefe braccio is to an Englifh foot nearly as 22 to 11, witliout confidering a fmall fradion. Vol. tt. Ff S UP- ■,l|l!ll!i «■•■ ' C 435 3 I SUPPLEMENT. ... ■ f f.. Account of the Lite Tumults and Revolution of Geneva in 1789. I '1 ... »ii f.ii I It 1 HAVE delayed the publication of this work, which was ready to be delivered, on account of the revolution recently experienced, at Geneva, which has greatly changed the form of govern- ment eftablifhed in 1782, and defcribed in the 6jth letter, I have, accordingly, fpared no pains, which the Ihortnefs of the time would admit, to collecl the moft authentic intelligence ; and here fub- mit to the reader a Ihort account of the caufes and termination of the late tumults, which have been the means of relloring Geneva to its former Ubertv, F f 2 The IB 436 Geneva. The cdia of pacification paffed in 1782 fuc- ceeded to a long feries of diffenfjons between the popular and ariftocratical parties. The three LLrs of France, Sardinia, and Berne by Uofe dominions Geneva i^ encircled, behold- in-s with regret and difpleafure, the flames of civU difcord continually fmothered, and conti- nually burfting forth on the flighteft occafion had combined in order to fettle ^fxed znA per- ma'wnt conftitution, and took fuch precautions ss feemed calculated to prevent in future any cffeaual oppofition to the government which they thought proper to eftablilh. By the com- bined forces of the three powers the far greater part of the Genevans were compelled to lubmit to the moa grievous conditions : the exile ot their popular chiefs ; the prohibition ot carry- ing arms ; and a foreign garrifon quartered in barracks, at the entire difpolal of government, formed the bafis which fupported the new conlti- From that period a calm of a few years, al- molt unknown to the republic, fucceeded ; but it was a fullen and a lowering calm ; the people were kept in order by the precaution of a mill- tary force, not calculated for a fmall republic ; the taxes imuofed for the maintenance ot that military force, and for building barracks, were heavy ; and their burden was felt the more, be- caufe they conftantly reminded the Genevans ot their humiliation and fubjedion. Durine my fubfequent vifits to Geneva, in - 1785 and the following year, I found an almoit o-eneral difcontent prevailing among all parties ; many of the Negatives difaffeaed ; the Repre- fentants fubmitting in filent and fullen defpair^ Revolution of, lySg. 437 and the people without fpirit and energy. The wifdom of many of the regulations paffed in 1782 Was overlooked, or forgotten; thofe only which annihilated the firft principles of liberty were remembered ; and almoft the only fentimcnt which prevailed, was the fentimcnt of degrada- tion, arifing from the fubjedion of a free people to a military government. ,.r /r n- In this (late of affairs and general dilaffeaion to the ruling party, many of the citizens fecreUy entertained hopes of another revolution ; either founding their expeftations on the embarraffed fituation of France, or on the favourable difpo- fition of the Great and Little Councils; the members of which had for fome time fatally experienced many difficulties in fupporting the authority of government. The minds of the greateft part were ready to take advantage ot every incident likely to effed a change of go- vernment. Such a general fpirit of difaffeaion had gone forth among the people, that adminiftration had been compelled to employ a military force in order to quell a tumult, which took its rife in the theatre on the 12th of December 1788. The quelling of this tumult was only a tempo- rary remedy ; and the popular difcontents broke out uncontrouled on the i6th of January, on account of the publication of an edia raifing the price of bread a farthing in the pound. This augmentation, though juftified by the fcarclty of flour, and paffed principally with a view to pre- vent the exportation of bread, was yet impru- dently laid on in the prefent temper of the peo- ple. An infurreaion inftantly took place ; the bakers (hops were pillaged, and on the following day 438 Geneva. I I I day a carriage laden >.ith bread, and efcorted by fo/diers, wa's plundered in its -Y to the f rjbu- tinn office in the quarter of St. Gervais. me lierf, firing at ?he populace killed one man and >vounded another : the numbers and fun of the rioters increafed ; they drove away the uoopS, and carried the body of the deceafed, m TS of funeral proceflion, before the to>.n. houfe; as a memorial of violence and oppreffion. The populace, roufed to frenzy at thrs Ipeaacle attacked and occupied the gates of the city, and daneeroufly wounded the commandmg ofticer, as Tewas Endeavouring to reitrain the ardour of his foldiers and the fury of the people. In all tumults and infurreftions thehrft mo- ments are precious. 'I he magiftrates inftead ot Sg decifively, had loft them in deliberation ; and the pof.tion of government became more and more cmbarraffing. On the prefent occa fion it was neceffary either to retake the gates, which had been occupied by the Jnfurgents or toconfefs, that the military force, by which they had hitherto kept the people in awe, was j . longer capable of enforcing obedience. 1 he mi- litary committee, charged with the command of he garrifon for the fecurity of the city, fluau- ated between their duty to quell the infurrea.on and their repugnance to flicd the blood of their bellow citizens^ In this dilemma they hefitated for fome time, and at length ordered two bodies of troops to force their paffage over the two bridges of the Rhone which feparate the quarter ■ of St. Gervais from the remainder of the city, and to retake the gate on the fide of Switzer- land. They flattered themfelves, that the people ,,ould retire at the firft appearance of a^coijlj^ I Revolution of, 1789. 439 Jerable body of foldiers. But it was now too fate the infurgents had already formed a ftrong barr cade, behind which they played off two Slumps, filled with boiling water and foap- fees aSnft the extremities of each bridge; the cS fire of feveral fmall -ms which poured from the windows and tops of t^eflp^^^^ houses, wounded feveral foldiers and kiU^^ *^ commanding officer; the pavement of theftreets waT torn up, and carried to the tops of the houfes, in order to be hurled down upon the ttoop if they forced the barricades and pene- rated into theftreets. Meanwhile the tumult '(^Sd into the other parts of the city, and was in danger of becoming univerfal. In this Ita e of affairs the magiftrates, finding that they could not quell the infurreaion without great efFufioa ^f blood, found themfelves under the neceffity of complying with the demands of the mfur- gents One^f the principal magiftrates repair- S iS perfon to the Quarter of St. Gervais pro- claimed an edia for lowering the price of bread, 'ranted a general amnefty, and releafed a^l the lErems that had been taken into cuftody. VtSceffions reftored indeed a momentary calm ; but produced the very effea they were in ended to avoid. The leaders of the difaffeaed ;ry now convinced, either of the inabihty or Ulingnefs of ^^-nment to ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ S^TJJ^^ i-ft ado?t| inuft be continued, held themfelves m '"^a^m^'*^"^^^^^^ advantage of any opportunity ^^^^ch prelented itfelf of excitin-T or encouragmg another mlur- rea on n'rder to etfea a change of govern mant, and a recovery of former privileges. Such L''l I 1 44® (Jtffffv^. an opportunity prefiented itfelf on tbc 29th of January, at the interment of a woman who had been cafuaHy killed by the difchargc of the mi- Irtaiy in the tumuk of the 26th, Au immenfc concourfe of people attended the funeral ; and the magiftrates imprudently ordered the ^rrifon to be ranged and ported with cannon, for the fecurity of the barracks and the city gates againft any attempts of t^e multitude. The populace, beheving that the garrifon was drawn out in order to recommence hoftilities, rofe inftantly, with one accord direfted their fury againft the foldiers,' drove them from their ports, difarmed them, and took poffeffion of the city gates with- out oppofition. This fecond tumult convinced the magiftrates that all farther oppofition was fruitlefs. For, as the generality of the citizens and burghers, inftead of taking an a^ive part in quelling the tumults, had rather leemed to countenance and encourage them, it was evident, that the lofs of their liberties, and the humiliation to which they were reduced by the edift of 1782, had abforb- ed every fentiment of affeftion and reverence for an adminiftration, which, however juft and rea- fonable in its meafurcs and conduft, was founded on the principles of defpotifm, and fupported by force. Impreffed with thefe confiderations, and finding by experience that a military government was both inexpedient and ineffedual, the chiefs of the ariftocratical party fuddenly changed the fyftem, by which they had been hitherto guided, and renounced, by a very extraordinary revolu- tion in their feutiments, that line of conduft to which they had before fo obilinately adhered. They now felt, that in fo fmall a republic, and ^ with Revolution of^ lySg. 44i with fuch few objeds of ambition, the only per- manent rccampence of their political labours could be drawn from the efteem, attachment, and confidence of their fellow-citizens ; they feit alfo, that, ading from that principle, the wifeft condua to be adopted on the prefent occafion was, to change a conrtitution which had been proved to be eflentially defeftive ; and which, while it abridged or annihilated the deareft rights and privileges of a freeborn fubjeft, was ineffec- tual in maintaining itfelf by the ufual companion of defpotifm, the terror of a military force. When, therefore, the Solicitor General, in the name of the citizens and burghers, folicited the recovery of their antient liberties, the permiffion of bearing arms, the re-ertablifliment of the mi- litia, and of their circles or political clubs ; the removal of the garrifon from the barracks ; and the recall of the Reprefentants, who were ba- nilhed in 1782; fuch moderate demands were received with complacency, and even fatisfac- tion. The two parties, fatigued with part diffenfions, and anxious to reunite in the common caufe, confented to facrifice fomething of their refpec- tive claims, and to ufe the power referved to them in 1782, by the guarantees, of amending and changing the laws, by a majority of three- fourths. The preliminaries were fettled without difficulty ; a committee was appointed to revife and amend the edid of 1782 ; the new edift of pacification, under the title of ModificaUom a I' Edit de 1782, were approved by the Senate, Great Council, and General Council. Such was t*he almoft general unanimity with which this buiinel's was tranfacted, that in the affembly of I' li .^2 Revolution of, 1789- of the General Council which met on the 10th of February, the modificattons^^re earned by %2i fufFraies againft 52- The publKation of the new editl was followed by the loudeft accla- n^ations and general rejoicings ; *nd the confent of the three guaranties is fohcited, and expetted '•"TM'Srr'S U valid in ^1 *«"■!'!» „hicl, are « "P";-!, "^^f t^/, *„V^" fent modtf canons ; or, to ule tne woru prefent amendments, « The edid of the 21ft oi November 1782, with the modifications ntro- duced by Ae p'refent edia, and the Pohtica code publifhed on the 1 th ot June 1783, Iha be the fundamental law of the ftate, and (hall forin the complete colkaion of its political fta- ""I'he conftitution is now wifely niodelled into a mean between the too popular form eftabhlhed L ,768, and the too ariilocratical form efta- Wiftied in 1782. , , . _ The magiftrates have confented to repeal the mod obnoxious articles in the edift of 1782; which may be principally reduced to the follow- '"^..^The garrifon is fubjed, as before the edift, of 1782, to the orders of the Senate, of the Syndic of the Guard, and of the members ot the Great Council ; and is to be no longer quartered in barracks. The garrifon is to be gradually re- duced to 600 men ; but to be increafed to 720 at the will of the Great Council. Ihe o - ?H-e;s are to be chofen by the Great Council. ■ from the citizens, burghers, and natives. 2. The militia to be re-embodied, and tne military cxcrcifes to be renewed. A regiment Geneva. 443 of volunteers to be formed from the citizens, burghers, natives, and inhabitants under the orders of the Senate and Syndic of the Guard. , All citizens, burghers, natives, inhabitants, and fubieds, are permitted to bear arms ; all other perfons dwelling in the city are prohibited from carrying fire-arms without perm.ffion. A. The circles, or political clubs, are re- eftablilhed : but they are forbidden to deliberate or vote on the affairs of ftate or the operations ° r^SomTadditional powers are granted to the thirty-fix adjunas, which increafe their im- portance, and confequently the weight of their reprefentations. „ , , , .-o. r -o, 6 All perfons banilhed by the edift of i/Ha are \o be recalled, if the confent of the three powers can be obtained ; and thofe, who were deprived of their burgherlhip on account ot re- fuling to take the oath of allegiance to the go- vernment eftabhlhed ini782, are to be rcm- ftated in their rights. 1. . r In return for thefe conceffions on the part ot the magiftrates, the popular party confent to the articles in the edid of 1782, which abolilhed the right of re-eleaion, and transferred the right ot reprefentation to the thirty-fix adjunas. They have afted wifely in renouncing the right of re-eleaion, that fpecies of oftracifm, and fource of fo much jealoufy and fufpicion, which principally occafioned the troubles that preceded the revolution of 1782. They have no lefs pru- dently confented to abolidi the right ot repre- lemation, as it was vefted, before the ed.a, in 444 Geneva- every citizen and burgher. The ufe, or rather the abufe of this right, occafioned frequent tu- mults and feditions, by the promifcuous affera- Wing of a large number without order ; and it was found to be a dangerous expedient to em- ploy a multitude as an engine for political pur- ^°By the edia of 1782 it was ftipulated, in fa- vourofthe natives, that during the term of ten years five natives, and after the expiration of the iaid term, three natives, fhould be annually cho- fen burghers. On the prefent occafion a farther claufe was added in their favour ; that the burgherlhip (hould be conferred on all natives of the fourth generation, when they (hall have attained the proper age. '1 ime only can difcover whether the prefent form of government will be more permanent than the former conaitution ; or whether a few years may not bring about another revolution. it bears, however, ftrong marks and charaders of permanency, if we may augur from the pre- fent temper and difpofition of the parties. The alterations are juft, reafonable, and even '^It istitie firft time that all the orders of the ftate freely, and as it were ummimoufly, con- fented, and that fcarcely the leaft difafteaion or murmurs have followed. The revolution ot 1768 was the triumph of the popular over the ariftocratical party ; and of 1782, the ftill greater triumph of the ariftocratical over the popular oartv. But the prefent change of the goverri- ■ Lent was accompanied and followed by the tri- umph of neither party. It was formed by the ' coalition '?t Revolution of, 1789. 445 coalition of both ; it was the general fenfe of the whole republic united, in order to repeal what experience had fliewn to be defedive and inconfiftent with republican freedom in the editt of 1782; and to retain what experience had ftewn to be expedient and analogous to the fpirit and principles of the conftitution. The pacification was inftantly followed by marks of cordiality and attention, between the individuals of two parties, never before experi- enced. The fons of the principal Negatives have frequented the circles of the burghers ; the ma- jrillrates, who could not be reproached with any abufe of their power fince the edid of 1782, have obtained the confidence of the people troni the moment that they renounced the fupport ot a foreign garrifon quartered In barracks, and ex- preffed their refolution of entrufting the preferva- tion of the ftate to the citizens, burghers, and natives. „. . r j- No monument of that military force, fo odious and yet fo ufelefs, will remain. The barracks of the town-houfe are already evacuated, and will be converted into a public library; the new barracks, built at an enormous expence, and more calculated for the garrifon of a power- ful and defpotic kingdom than for a fmall and free commonwealth, will be converted into a building for the univerfity. The reformation ot the ftudies, which have fcarcely received any alteration fince the time of Calvin, is now m agitation. In a word, all things feem at pretent to confpire for the general good ; and it is to be hoped that both parties, fhocked at the recol- lection of paft troubles, will continue on as friendly 1 V 44.6 Geneva. friendly terms as the jealous nature of a free conlUtution will admit ; and not exhibit any more civil diffenfions of fuch notoriety as to en- dansrer the ruin of the republic ; diffenfions which have been hitherto, perhaps, almoft un- avoidable, but which, if renewed in future, will ftamp indelible diigrace on the Genevans, as relt- iefs and unquiet ipirits. t « FAUNULA HELVETICA: O Ri A CATALOGUE OF T H £ Quadrupeds, Birds, Amphibia, Fiflies, and Teftaceous Animals of Switzerland. Arranged and denominated according to the Syftera of L I N M A V S. With References to Mr. Pennant's Britifli Zoology, Mr. Brisson's Works, and other Authors. Vol. II. G g 45^ Faunula Helvetica, Faunula Helvetica. 451 I N no part of Europe docs nature invite the naturalift with ilronger attradions than m Switzerland; a country fo remarkably diltin- iruiflied, bv fullime alps, ftupendous glaciers, beautiful mountains, vallies, and lakes, and af- fordirie a molt comprehenfive fcope for variety, in the vqretable world, in the mineral kingdom, and in animal life : nor have the ingenious and learned of this nation negleaed to avail them- felves of their peculiar fituation. Let the genius of the Gefners, the names of Haller, of Sauffure, and many others, bear teftimony to this truth. Neverthelefs, of thefe various branches of know- ledsc. Zoology feems to have made lefs progrefs among this ingenious people, than any other na- tural fcience, if compared with its advancement in feveral other parts of Europe ; fince there is yet no complete Fauna, or defcnption ot the animals of this country. It is true, the writings of the indefatigable Conrad Gefner, contain a creat number of valuable obfervations on the animals of Switzerland ; but fo diffu fed through- out his works, that they are of little ufe to fuch as wifh for a connected view of its animal pro- duftions. Neither can the fcanty and vague ac counts of Wagyer, gratify the accuracy ot the modern zoologift. The induftry, however, and ingenuity of fe- veral naturalifts, have of late been employed in accurate inveftigations of the refpeftive parts of Switzerland regarding the animal kingdom ; and their kindaefs has enabled me to lay before the Englifh naturalift the following Faunula Hel- vetica, ^ ^ ^ * The reader is, however, originally indebted to Thomas Pennant, Efq; for this catalogue. That ingenious naturalift, having communicated to me a lift of the Swifs birds drawn from Mr. Sprungli's * much-admired cabinet, advifeJ me to obtain from the colleftor himfelf an account of fuch additional birds as he had procured fince 1776, the year* in which Mr. Pennant vifited Switzerland. I accordingly applied to Mr. Sprungli, who obligingly gave me an accurate catalogue of the Swifs birds and fifties, drawn up in the Linnscan method, illuftrated with obferva- tions and remarks. On returning from my travels, Mr. Pennant, at my requeft, favoured me with the Englilh names of the faid birds, and with references to the Britifti Zoology, Linnaeus, and Briffon, which are preferved in the following catalogue. On a fubfequent expedition to Switzerland in 1786, I endeavoured to obtain a catalogue of the quadrupeds and amphibia, for the purpofe of forming a Faunula Helvetica, a great defideratum in the natural hiftory of Switzerland. From the Rev. Mr. Wyttenbach f , the fame gentleman to whom I was already indebted for a defcription of the Alps and hills feen from * Letter 58. f Letter 59. Gga Berne, - f2 Faunula Helvetica. Berne, I received a lift of the quadrupeds and amphibia ; and from M. Van Berchem , ot Laufanne, whom I have mentioned m my account of the bouquetin, a catalogue of the fifhes found in the lake of Neuchatel, and of the amphibia, which agreed with thofe communicated to me by Mr. Wyttenbach. ^ , r ,t c» To the obliging communication ot Mr. btu- der, minifter of the great hofpital at Berne, I owe the remaining part of this Faunula. As no marine fpecies of ftiells could enter into this lift, it will be an ample proof of the diligence Mid ingenuity of the colleaor, that his cabinet aau- ally contains all the land and frelh water Ihel s here enumerated ; among which are many totally unnoticed by former writers. „ , - , . , Mr. Studer, having collefted all thefe fpecies in the recent ftate, with a view to defcribe the animal, as well as its covering, was hence led to arrange them, not by the fyft"", ^^ Lmnseus which is adapted rather to the fliell than to the inhabitant of it, but by that of the late learned and indefatigable Mr. Muller, publiflied under the following title, « Vermium ter rejlrium etjiu- « vlatiiium feu Animalium infu/oriorum, Hetmtn. «' thicorunu et Tejlaceorum, non marinorum, fuc « cUaa Hijloria. Auaore Otb. Frid. Mvllek. » Haunin; & Lipf. i77?- 4°-" The French names he has taken from M. Geoffry s work « on the Tcftaceous Animals of the Environs ot «' Paris •" the German, from the Berlin Maga- zine conduaed by Dr. Martini, and from the Tvorks of Mr. Schroeter. To the new fpecies he has himielf given trivial names ; and propoles Faunula Helvetica. 453 fliortly to publiih an ample defcription of his cabinet. The Faunula, in the order in which it now ftands, was arranged and digefted by Dr. Pul- teney, who colkaed the Englifli names, and re- ferences to Linnaeus, Pennant, and Briflbn, in the catalogues of the quadrupeds and amphibia. He alfo fubjoined to the lift of birds feveral references and illuftrations, in addition to thofe communicated by Mr. Pennant; and Mr. Sprungli, having reviewed the birds and filh fince thefe additions were made, has expreifed his entire approbation of them. I cannot conclude without exprefling my ob- ligation to thofe gentlemen, who have thus en- abled me to give the firft conneaed, though brief, account of the Swifs zoology. FAUNULA • Letter 41 . fliortly ( 455 ) ♦ PJUNULJ HELVETICA: R, A CATALOGUE O F T H E ^ QUADRUPEDS, BIRDS, AMPHIBIA, FISHES, and TESTACEOUS ANIMALS, of SWITZERLAND: Arranged and denominated according 'o the Syftem of - ' L I N N ^ U S: Wilh Rcfcreacw to Mr. Pennant's Britilh Zoology, Ms. Brision'* Works, and other Authors. C L A S S I. MAMMALIA, Ordo I. PRIMATES. Vespertilio. Lin. Sjifi. Natur. Edit. xii. p. 47, V. Auritus. L'tn. 48. ^ .^ ^ , t-j •• < OreiUard. V. Minor. BnJ, ^ad, Ed. u. p. 1 60. Long-eared Bat. Br, ZooL N» 40. t. 13. V. Murinus. Lin, 48. ,^ 1,, . „ .^ « La Chauve Souris commune. V. Major. BnJ, 158. CoMMOH Bat. Br. ZqoL N° 41, V. Serotinus. La Serotine. Bufon, 8. p. 129. t. 18. The Serotine Bat. Fen, Hift. ^ad, N<» 408. V. Noaula. La Noftule. Buffon, 8. p. 128. t. 18. The Noctule Bat. Br. ZooL W 38. t. 13. V. Pipi- 4s6 Faunula Helvetica. Faunula Hehetica, ^S1 V. Pipiftrcllus ? * La Pipiftrelle. Bujon, 8. p. 129. t. 19. 1. The PiPisTRELL Bat. ffj/i, ^d, N° 409. V. Barbaftellus. La Barbaftelle. Bujbn. 8. p. 130. t. 19. I. The Barbestell Bat. Hi/i. ^ad. N» 400. v.* Ferrum equinum ? ^ ... La Chave Souris fer a Cheval. Buffon. vm. p. 13«- Horse-Shoe Bat. Br, ZooL N^ 39. O R D o III. F E R -ffi. Cam IS. Xin.p. s5. C. Familiaris. Lin, 56. ■. * » * LeChien. C. domefticus. p. 160. Faithful Dog. Pennant, Brit, ZooL N* 10. C. Lupus. Lin. 58. LeLoup L. Vulgaris. Briff, i^o. The Wot F. Br, ZooL 8S i. p. 75- ^- 5- P^"""** "ifl- ^lad N^ 137. „ . . . . Not uncommon in the Vallais; but rare m the mountains of Geffenay. In the mountains of Savoy, and on the Jura. C. Vulpes Lin, 59. Le Renard. V. Vulgaris. Brijf, ^d. p. 173. The Fox. Br, ZooL N« 11. C. Alopex. Lin, 59. „ ^ , ^^ Black-tailed Fox. Br, ZooL N* 139. «. F E L I s. Lin. 60. F. Catus domefticus. Le Chat domeftique. Briff. r^i. House Cat. Catus Sylveftris. Lin 62. Le Chat Sauvage. F. Sylveftris. Brig. 192. Wild Cat. Br. ZocL N^ 12. F, Lynx. Lin, 62. ■ Le Loup-Cervier. Lynx. Brif. 200. The Lynx. NiJ. ^ad. ^^ ^70. . On the mountains near the Alps, and in taucigny. Often Often feen in the bailliage of Interlacheh, and in the land of Hafli. M u s T E L A. Lin, 66. M. Martes, gutture albo. Lin. 67. La Fouine. Foyna. Brif, lyS. The Martin. Br. ZooL N** 15. Martes. gutture flavo. Lin. 67. La Marte. Martes. Brijl 1 79. Pine Martin. Br, ZooL N« 16. t. 6. M. Putorius. Un, 67. Le Potois. Putorius. Brif. 180. The Fitchet. Br. ZooL N" 14. t. 6, M. Furo. Un. 68. Le Furet. Viverra. Brif, 177. The Ferret. Hift, ^ad. N^ 198. M. Vulgaris. LaBelette. Brif. i*js- Common Weesel. Br. ZooL N* 17. M. Erminca. Lin, 68. L'Ermine. Hermineum. Brif. 276. The Stoat, or Ermine. Br. ZooL N° 18. t. 7. Rare in Switzerland. M. Lutra. Lin. 66. L*Outre. Lutra. Brif, 201. The Otter. Br. ZuoL N° 19 t. 8. In the brooks and rivulets on the mountains : rarely m the plains. U R s u s. Lin. 69. U. Arftos. Un. 69. Niger «. L'Ours. Urfus. Brif. 187. Black Bear. Br. ZooL i. p. 77- ^^'ifi- ^"^^^ N*^ 174. —Sometimes feen ; but rarely. .... .— Fufcus /3. Brown Bear. r t, , • Not a native, but frequently ftrays from Burgundy into Switzerland. — . — Albus y. White BEi^R. — Rare. IT. Mcles. 45» Faunula HehftUs, Faunula Helvetica, 459 U. Meles. Un. 70. Blaireau. Mek-s. Brt/f, 183. Badger. Br, ZooL N° 85. t. 8. T A L P A. Un. 73. T. Europaea. Un. j^. La Taupe. T. Vulgaris. Br if 20^ IheMoLE. Br. ZooL N" s^' Alba. fi. Taupe Blanche. Talpa alba. Brjf 205. Whiti Mole. — Kare. S o R E X. Un, 73. S. Araneus. Un. 74. Mufaraigne. Mufaraneus. Fr':f, 126, Common Shrew. Br, Z^oL N® 32, Common in the Plair,. S. Daubenionii. /^i/. deVAcad. an. 1756. p. il. Mufaraigne d*eau. Mufaraneus aquaticus. Br\[f, 127. Water Shrew. Br. ZooL N<=^ 33. Rare in Switzerland. Erinaceus. Un. 75. E* Europaeus. Un. 75. L'HerilTon. Erinaceus. Briff. 128. The Urchin, or Hedge-hog. Br. Zool, N^ 35. O R D o IV. G L I R E S. L E p u s. Un. 77. L. Timidus ». Un. 77. Lc Livre commun. Lepus. Brlff. 94, The Common Hare. Br. ZooL N° 20. Very common. Lc Lievre hlanc. Lepus ▼ariabilis, apicc auriuin itro, Cauda concolore alba. Pallas Nov. Spec. i. Varying, or Alpine Hare. Mr. ZooL N** 21. t. 8. Ht/l. ^ad. N° 242. There is great reaibn to believe this to be a diftindl fpc- «6s. Both are found on the mountains, but the White Hart Hare never defcends into the plains, keeping on the bor- ders of the Glaciers and on the Alps ; and the chafleurs , in Switzerland aflure us, as does Mr. Hennaiit, that it does not mix with the Common Hare, neither is the flefti fo palatable as that of the common kind. Mr, ffiiten- hach. Castor. Un. 78. C. Fiber. • Un. 78. Le Caftor, ou le Bievrc. C. five Fiber. BriJ. 90. The Beaver. Br. ZooL i. 8°. p. 96. Hijl ^ad. N« 251- This animal was formerly found in the Aar, and in the lake of Brientz, but I believe it is now extlnft in Switzer- land. M u s. Un. 79. Mas Marmota. Un. 81. Glis Marmota. Witienb. La Marmotte, Marmota Alplna. Brl/f. 117. The Marmot. Hift. ^ad. N° 258. ^ Common on the flopes of the Alps, where grafs is tp be found. It makes a whiftling or hiffing noife on the approach of the chafTeurs. The flelh is eaten, and the fat fold to the apotliecaries, who make an ointment with it, which is in repute for burns. M. Cricetus. Un. 82. • Le Hamfter. Marmota Argentoratenfis. Brjjf. ii'j. The Hamster Rat ^IJL ^ad. N° 324. I have been informed that this fpecies has been Iccn, though rarely, about the Aar, and in the canton of Berne. M. Rattus. Lin. 83. Lc Rat commun. Rattus. Brijf. 118. Black Rat. Br, ZooL N° 25. M. Amphibius. Lin. 82. Le Rat d'Eau. M. Aquaticus. Bri/f. 124. Water Rat. Br. ZooL N** 27. M. 6yl- 460 Faunula HelveiicM* M. Sykaticus. Lin. 84. LaMuIoi. M. Agrorum. BnJ, 12$, FiELB Mouse. Br. Zool N° 28. Very common, not in fields only, but m the woods. . M. Mufculus. Lin. 83. La Souris. Sorex. Br't/I. 1 19. Mouse. Br. Zool. N» 30. Very common in houfes. , M. Terreftris. Lin. 82. ^ . _ ,. ., .-. LeCampagnol. M. Campcftris Minor, ^^ri^ 129. Short-tailed Mouse. Br. Zool, N° 31. Common, M. CEconomus. Pallas, Cauda fubfefquiunciali, auricuHs nu- dis, vellere molli, latentibus palmis iubtetradaaylis, corpore fufco. Tab. 14. A. Pallas. Pen. HiJ. ^ad. N°3i3. This animal is known in the Pais de Vaud by the name of the Mole, and is common both on the mountains and the plains of that dilbia. M. Van Berchem was the firft who difcovered it to be the M. aconomus of Pallas. It was alfo found, by M. Amllein, in the country of the Grifons. S c I V R u 8. Lin. 86. C Vulgaris. Lin. 86, L'Ecureuil. S. Vulgaris. Bri/f. 104. Common Squirrel. Br. Zool. N° 23. Two varieties are found in Switzerland ; the common red fquirrel with a white belly, and another black, with a white belly. The latter is larger, and lefs frequent than the red fquirrel. S. Glis. Lin. 87. LeLoir. Glis. Brlf. 11$, Fat Dormouse. Hi/l. ^ad. N° 287. S. Avellanarius. Mus avellanarius. Lin. 83. Mufcardine. M. avcllanarum minor. Bri/f. 115. The Dormouse. Br. Zool. N^ 24. S. Quercinus. Mus quercinus. Zi«. 84. rt'/r,^. LeLerot. Rat blanc. M. Avcllanarum major. BrtJJ. 114- Garden Dormouse. Hift, ^d. N° 288- Tbis is Tcry rare. O & DO Faunula Helvetica, 46^ OrdoV. PECORA. C E R V u s. Un. 92. C. Elaphus. Lin. 93. Le Cerf. Cervus. Briff. 58. The Stag. Br. Zool. H^ 6. This is rare in the Pais de Vaud, but more frequent la the plains and mountains of the German diftrid of the canton of Berne. C. Capreolus. Lin. 94. Le Chevreuil. Capreolus. Brijf.6i. The Roe-buck. Br. Zool N" 8. t. 4. On the lower parts of mount Jura, and elfewhere in the plains. C A p R A. Lin. 94. Antilope Rupicapra. Pallas Mi/cell. Fafc. I . p. 7. & Fafc. 1 2 . p. 12. Capra Rupicapra. Lin. 95. Le Chamois. Rupicapra. Brl/f.^i. Chamois Antilope. Hift. ^ad. N^ 17. Only on the higheft Alps ; defcending in winter to the lower mountains. C. Hircus. Lin. 94. ' Le Bouc. Le Chevre domeftique. Hircus et Capra do- meftica. Brijf. 38. Domestic Goat. Br. Zool. N** 5. There is a variety with four horns, found on the Alps in the canton of Berne. C. Ibex. Lin. p. 95. Le Bouc Eftain. Ibex. Brilf. 39. • Wild Goat, Ibex Goat. Hift. ^ad. W 13. Extremely rare now in Switzerland. Bouquetin. Bujfon. Hift. Nat. xii. p. 136. t. 13. 14. O R D o IV. B E L L U ^. E Q^u u s. Lin. xoo. E. Caballus. Lin. 100. Le Cheval. Equus. BriJf. 69. The Horse. ^ ^^ E. Annus. 4^ Faunula Helvetica, E- Afinus. Ltn. lOO. . L'Anc. Afmus. Bri/f. 70. The Ass. Afmus Mulus fi. Lin. 10 1. Le Mulct. Mulus. Brlf.'ji, The Mule. ^r. Zoo/. N*8. S u s. Un. 102. S. Scrofa. Apcr. Un. 102. Le Sanglier. Aper. Brilf. 75. The Wild Hog. Hiji ^ad.l^ 6j, On mount Jura, and in the adjacent country. Scrofa. ?us. Lin. 102. ' Le Cochon domeftique. Sus domefticus. Briff, 74. Tame Hog. jBr. ZW. N^ 9. Faunula Helvetica, CLASS IL 463 ^ E Ordo L ACCIPITRES. Rapacious. VuLTUR. Lin. i2i» Vulture. Vultur Barbatus. Lin. in. Aureus. Gefder. Av. edit. 8620. p. 708. V. barbu. Rriffon, 6. Jpp. p. 26. Bearded Vulture.*. EdivarJs, t, 106. This bird frequents the Pennine, Rhcetian, and Tyro* lefe Alps. It is found alfo in Corfica, Sardinia, and probably in Barbary, as well as on mount Caucafus and in Dauria, or the iouth-eaftern parts of Siberia. It con- neas the Vultures with the Eagles. In the form of the beak and of the body it refembles the Vulture, but differs from that genus in having the head, like that of the Eagles, covered with feathers. It is now fo well defined, cfpecially by M. Sprungli, that it can no longer be mif- laken. See Letter 58. The German peafants of Swit- zerland name this bird, by way of eminence, the Lam- mer-gcyer, and relate incredible tales of its fize and vo- racioufnefs: The peafants of the French diftrid fre- quently call it Le Fautour Jaune. /- z • Smce 1 fent to the prcfs the account of the Bearded Vulture, Let- icr 58, I find that Mr. Latham, in his Supplement to the General Sy- nopfw of Birds, p. i. feems alfo to adopt the conjcAure of Buffon, in claffing the Lammer-geyer and Condor under the fame fpecies ; though he confeffes, that " it ftill remains dubious, whether the Lammer- geyer be the fame with the Condor, or a mere variety of the Bearded Vulture." He adds alfo, with a candour which does him honour, " It is much to be feared, that other authors, as well as myfelf, have greatly confounded the fpecies of Vultures ; for being, like the Falcon tribe, long lived, their plumage puts on a great variety of drefs, fufficicnt t» deceive thofc who have hitherto attempted to difcriminate them.** Falco. CLASS I 464 Faunula Helvetica* Falco. Lin. p. 124. Falcoh. Sea^Eagle. Pen. Br. Zool N^ 44- t. i?- Frequent about the lakes. F. Chryfaetos. Ltn. 125. d -/f ^^i T'AmlpHore feu Aq. aurea. iJ^'i^. i« ^3»' .- . feoLoT. eTc' B. V ZW. N° 4^. t. 16. fronufp.ece. On Mount Jura. F Fulvus. Ltn. 125. i L'Aigle. AquUa. Brtjf. i. 4^9. ^^Th: p^:f:n,:-of'swhreia':;d ti.i this b^a o,c i...^- tus, p. I H- S" Supp. to ^ra« Z»«%. p. 57- F. Halistus. L>"- 129- ., ., . B_:/r i aa^ t ia L'Aigle de Mer. feu Aqu.la Manna. £r# i. 44°- »• 34- ^•*ES;fe.l!eF'aconi Collier. Falco torquatus. Brg. «- 345-^ Ring-tailed Falcon. Very rare. F Milvus. Lin, I20. « -/r ..<»«/• Le Milan Royal. Milvus regalis. Bnf i.4H.t.33' The Kite. Jr. ZW. N° 53. F. Subbuteo. ^'J;'*;-.. nrifT I ^iz Le Hobreau. Dendrofalco ^n^. I. 375- The Hobby. Br. ZooL N° 61. F. Buteo. Un. 127. LaBufe. Buteo. Brtf'.^f* The Buzzard, fir. Zoo/. N<^ 55- ^- =*5- Very common. F. Ti«- Faunula Ilehetica, 4^$ F. Tinnunculus. Ltn. 127. La Cre/Terelle. Tinnunculus. Brtf i. 393. The Kestril. Br. Zool. N° 60. F. *Lanarius. I/k. 129. Le Lanier. Lanarius. Brif i. 363. The Lanner. Br. ZooL N<^ 51. t. 22. . F. Apivorus. Lin. 130. La Boudrce. Buteo apivorus f. vefcivorus. Brif, i, 410. Honey Buzzard. Br. ZooL N^56. F. Palumbarius. Lin, 130. L'Autour. Aftur. Bri/f. i. 317. Goshawk. Br. Zool. N° 52. t. 24. F. Nifus. Lin. 130. L'iipervier. Accipiter. Brtf. i. 310. Sparrow Hawk. Br. Zool. N"" 62. F. Lithofalco. Le Faucon de Roche, ou Rochier, Brljf, I. 349- , , Stone Falcon. Latham, i. p. 92. F. Lcucoccphalus. Le Faucon a tete blanche. BrlJf. \. 325. Var. C. et Le Faucon paru. F. pedibus pennatis. ejufd. 6 y^/>/>. 22. t. t. Rough-legged Falcon. Br. Zool. App. 623. 1. 1? F. *Circus rufus. Le Buzard roux. Brijf. i. p. 404, Harpy Falcon. Latham. \, p. 51- F. Percgrinus. I^e Faucon pelerin. Brif. 1. 341. Peregrine Falcon. .5r. Zoo/. N 48. t. 20. F. -/Efalon. Buffun, L'Emerlllon. Bnf. i. 382. The MtRLiN. Br. Zool. fol, xv. Strix. Lin. 131. Owl. S. Bubo. Un. 131. Le Grand Due. Bubo. Brijj'. I. 477. £agle Owl. Br. Zool. No 64. Frequent among the rocks on the mountains. S. Otus. Lin. 132. Le Moyen Due, ou le Hibou. Afio. BrlJ], i. 486. Long-eared Horn Owl. Br, Zool, N° (>$. t. 30. Vol. n. H h S. Scops. 4 I," 466 Faunula Helvetica. S, Scops. Lin. 132. , „ f I Le petit Due. Scops. 5r«r I. 495- «• 37- f- '• Scops, or L.ttle Horn Owl. Latham, i. p. ^9- S. Aluco. Lin. 1 32. „ _ , LaHulotte. Ulula. Br. Zool. I. 507- . Brown Owl? or Aluco? Latham 1. p. 140- '• Slie, oril'Lifage. Le petit Chathuant. Aluco. wS Ow\?or Barn Owl. Br. Zool. N= 67. S. Stridula. Zi«. 133. Le Chathiiant. Strix. Briff.^.joo. Tawny Owl. ^r. Zoo/. N° 68. '^Sa.o^;;f ^ g-^^ Cheveche. Noaua M.^or. Br^'S OwL.''^r. ZW. N° 69. t. 32. S. Pafierina. Un. 133. ^ . t^ /r , cx± LaChevache. Noaua minor. BrtJ. i. S^^^ Little Owl. Br, ZooL N« 70. Lanius. Lin. 134. Shriki. L. Excubitor. Lin. 134- . . « • a- , ^' Z: Pie-grleche grife^ L--S c,^^^^^^^^^ ^'/. ^^ Hi- GR.EAT Shrike. J5r. Zoo/. N 7»-^-33- L. Collurio. L:n,^$(>'^ -^ L^Ecorcheur. Colluno. ^2. i5«. RtD-BACKED Shrike. 5r. Zoo/. N° 72. L Rufus. La Pie Grieche rouffe. Brlf. 2. 147- * Fadem cum priori ex lententia Ltnnat, iLaaem cuui I ^^ 7 / N*^ 7^- Latham. I. Wood-chat Shrike, i)'. -^^^o'- ^^ /^ p. 169. Ordo II. PICiE. P1E8. CoRvus. Lin. 155. Crov. C. Corax. Lin 155. * Le Corbeau. Corvus. BriJ. 2. p. iJ. The Raven. Br. Zool N^ 74- C. Corone. Un, 155. LaCorneille. Cormx. Bnjf ^. p. I2. Carr»om Crow. Br. Zool N« 75. «• 34 ^, p^^. Faunula Helvetica, 467 C. Frugilegus. Un, 1^6. Le Freux. Le Corneille moifonneufe. Comix frugilega, Briffl 2. p. 16. The Rook. Br. Zool N° 76. C. Cornix. Un, 156. La Corneille moutill^. Comix cinerea. Bri/f. 2. p. 19. Hooded Crow. Br, Zool. N° 77. Flor, Scot. t. 2. Rarely feen, and only in winter. C. Monedula. Un. 156. Le Choucas. Monedula f. Lupus. Briff, 2. p. 24. The Jack-daw. Br. Zool N^ 81. C. Glandarius. Un. 156. Le Geay. Garrulus. Briff. 2. p. 47. The Jay. ^r. Zoo/. N^ 79. C. Caryocataftes. Un. 157. Le Caffe-noix. Nucifraga. Briff. 2. p. 59. t. 5. f. I. Nut-breaker. -5r. Zool. 2, App, 531. t. 3. Common in the woods. C. Pica. Un. 157. La Pie. Pica varia f. caudata. Brijf. 2. p. 35. The Magpie. Br. Zool N<' 78. C. Pyrrhocorax. Lin. 158* Le Choucas des Alpes. Pyrrhocorax. Briff, 2. p. 30. t. I. f. 2. Alpine Crow. Latham \, 381. Frequent in the Alps. C. Graculus. Lin. 158. Le Coracias. Coracia. Erijf. 2. p. 3. t. i. f. i. Red-legged Crow. Uitham i. p. 401. Br, Zool W 80. t. 35. . . In the Alps, but lefs frequent than the foregoing fpecies. C. Eremita. Lin. 159. Le Coracias hupe. Coracia criftata. BriJf. z. p. 6. Hermit Crow. Latham. 1. p. 403. This bird is entirely unknown to Nf. Sprungli, though faid to be a native of the Swifs mountains He took great . pains to difcover it> but in vain ; and fufpefts, after all, that if it does really exift, it is only a variety of the preceding. Hh 2 CoiiA- 468 CoRACiAS. Lin. 159. Roller. 1. 1 C. Carriila. Lm. 159. Le Rollier. Galgulus. -Br/^. 2. p. 64. t. 5. t. 2. The Roller. Br.Zool. 2. y%. p. 624. t. 2. Rare, and only fccri in the fummer feafon. Oriolus. Ltn. 160. Ori6le. O. Galbula. Lin. 160. Le Loriot. Oriolus. Brijf. 2. p. 320. The Oriole. Br. ZooL-2, App. p. 626. t. 4. Uncommon in Switzerland. CucuLus. lin, 168. CucKOW. C. Canorus. Lin. 168. LeCoucou. Cuculus. BriJf: ^ p. 105. The Cuckoo. Br. ZooL N** &2. t. %6. Jyux. Lin,!-]!. Wryneck. J. Torquilla. lin. \'J2, Le Torcol. Torc^uilla. Brif 4. p. 2. t. I. 1. I. The Wryneck. Br, Zooi. N- 83. t. 36. Picus. Un, 173. Woodpecker. P. Martins. Lin, 173. Picnoir. Picus niger. Brtjf. ^. 21. ^r * i Black Woodpecker. Pen. Jrd. Zooi. p. 276. iJ/Aflm. I. p. 552. Common in the woods abounding m fir-trees. P. Viridis. Lin. 175. Pic verd. P. viridis. Brijf.^. p. 9. Green Woodpecker, ^r. Zoo/. N*» 84. P. Norwegicus. Le Pic verd de Norwege. Brif, 4. p. 19. i^ Grey-headed freen Woodpecker. Edw.X.C^, Grey-headed Woodpecker. Br.Zool. p. 277. La- tham, I. p. 583.— On the mountains. P Major. Lin. 176. . Le grand Pic varic. P. varius major. BnJ 4 34- Great-spotted Woodpecker, ^r. -^oo/, N 85. , P. Medius. ^ Faunula H^lvitica, 469 P. Medius. Lin. IJ76. Le Pic rari^. Picus vaxius. Bryf, 4. 38. Middle-spotted Woodpecker. Br, ^ZooL N® 86. t. 37. P. Minor. Lin. 176. Le petit Pic varic. P. varius minor. Briff, 4. 41. Least-spotted Woodpecker. Br, ZooL N^* 87. P. Trida(5tylus. Un, 177. Th REE-toed WoodpeciCer. Edw. ^. 114. Pen. Ar3, ZooL p. 275. Latham, i. p. 600. Very common in the mountainous part of the canton of Berne. Sitta. Un. 177. Nuthatch. S. Europaea. Lin, 177. Le Torchc-pot. Sitta, f. Picus cinercus. BriJf, 3. 588. t. 28. f. 3. The Nuthatch. Ur, ZooL Ns' 89. t. 58. Alceoo. Lin, p. 178. Kingfisher. A. Ifpida. lin, 178. Le Martin Pefcheur. Ifpida. Briff, /^. ^'ji. Kingfisher. Br, ZooL N® 88. t. 38. Frequent in Switzerland, particularly about fifk- ponds. Merops. Lin. 182. Bee-eater. M. Apiaftcr. Lin. 182. Le Guafpier. Apiafter. Brif, 4. 532. Bec-£AT£R. Latham, i. p. 667. Certhia. Lin, 184. Creeper. C. Familiaris. Lin. 184. Le Grimpereau. Certhia. Brif. 3. 603. The Creeper. Br. ZooL N°9i. t. 39. « C. Muraria. Lin, 184. Le Grimpereau de muraille. C. muralis. Brif, 3, 607. t, 30. f. I. Wall- 470 Faunula Helvetica, •* Wall-creeper. Latham, i. 730. Ednv. t. 3(5i. Common, in fummer, on the mountains; in wintct, about towns and villages. Upi;pa. Lin. 183. Hoopee. U, Epops. Lin. 18^. La Hupe, ou Puput. Upapa. Brif. 2. 45$. t. 43. f. I. The Hoopee. Br. Tool N° 90. t. 39, Common in the fummer. Ordo III. A N S E R E S. Web-footed. Anas, Un, 194. Duck. A. Cygnus/^r«x. Lin, 194. ' ._ ^ q La Cygnc fauvage. C. ferus. BnJ. 6. 292. t. 2». Wild Swan. -ffr. Zoo/. N*» 264. Viljts Switzerland only in very fcvere winters. A. Anfer/rr«/. I/w. 197. „ ./r^r- i: L'oye Sauvage. Anfer fylvcftris. BnJJ.t, 265. Grev Lag Goose. Bf. ZooL N" 266. L^//>j»w. 3. 4S9- A. Clvpcata. Un. 200. Lc'Souchet. A. Clypcata. BriJ. 6. 329. t. 32. t, I. The Shoveler. ^r. ZooL N° 280. A. Strepera. Lin. 200. LeChipau. A. Strepera. Brtf 6. 339. t. 33. f. I. The GoDWALL. Br, ZooL N° 288. A. Clangula. Lin. 201. tr i- c c Le Garrot. A. Clangula. BrUf. 6. 416. t. 37. t. 2. Goldeneye Duck. Br. ZooL N" 276. A. Acuta. Lin. 2©2. r /r /; Le Canard a longuc queue. A. Longicanda. hnJJ, 0. 369. t. 34. f. 1. 2. Pintail Duck. Br. ZooL N*» 282. A. Ferina. ' Faunula Helvetica* 471 A. Ferina. Lin. p. 203. Le Millouin. Penelope. Brif 6. 354. t. 33. f. i. The PpcHARD. Br. ZooL W 284. ;^. A. Penelops. Lin, 202. Le Canard fiffleur. A. fiflularis. Brif 6. 391. t. 3$. f. 2. The WiGEON. Br. ZooL N« 286. ^. nftularis criftata. Le Canard liffleur hupe. Brif 6. 398. PL Enlum. N** N'928. Red-crested Duck. Latham. 3. 544. ^ A. Querquedula. /./«. 203. ^ i La Saicellc. Querquedula. Br\J]. 6. 417. t. 39. f. i. t. The Garganey. -5r. ZooL N'. 289. t. 101. A. Crecca. Lin. 204. La Petite Sarcelle. Querquedula Minor. Bri{f. 6. 436. t. 40. f. I. The Teal. Br, ZooL N°. 290. A. Bofchas. Lin. 288. Le Canard Sauvage. A. fera. Brif. 6. 318. The Mallard. Br. Zool. N . 274. A. Fullgula, Lin. 207. Le Petit Morillon. Glaucium Minus. Briffl 4ii..t. 37. f. I. Tufted Duck. Br. ZooL N*. 274. Mergus. Lin. 207. Merganser. M. Merganfer. Lin. 208. L'Harle. Merganfer. Br^ff. 6. 23 1. t. 22. The Gooseandrr. J5r. Zo tr a ^tf. L'Hirondclle de mer tachettec. S. nxvia. linJJ. 0. 210. t. 20. f. 2. Sanpwich Tern. Variety A. Latham, p. 358 l Ordo « _ Faunula Helvetica. 475 O R D o IV. G R A L L ^. W A d e r s. Platalea. ///h. 231. Spoonbill. P. Leucorodia. Vtn. 231. La Spatule. Platea. BriJf. 5. 352. Spoonbill. Br. Zool. 2. App. 634. t. 9. Now and then fcen in the marflies. A R D E A. Lin. 2^^. Crane. A. Grus. Lin. 234. La Grue. Grus. Brif. 5. 374- t. 33. The Crane. Br. Zool. App. 629. t. 6.. Only feen in the fpring in its migration. A. Ciconia. Un. 235. La Cigogne Blanche. Ciconia alba. 5r^ 5. 365. t. 32. The Stork. Latham. 3. 47. Pen. ArQ. Zool. p. 455. Common in the marflies and low grounds. A. Nigra. Lin. 235. La Cigogne Brune. Ciconia fufca. Briff. 5. 362. t. 31. Black Stork. Latham. 3. p. 50. ArQ. Zool. p. 45^. Lefs common than the foregoing. A. Nyftlcora^^. Lin. 2^^. Le Bihoreau. Nydicorax. Lrif. 5, 493, t. 39. Ash-colouredCrane, or, Night Ravenj male. La^ thum. 3. 52. ArS. Zool. p. 450. A. Purpurea, Lin. 236. Le Heron pourpre hupc. A. criftata purpurafcens. Bri/J, 5. t. 36. f. 2. Crested Purple Heron. Latham. 3. p. 95. A. Major. Lin. 2^6. Le Heron hupe. A. criftata. Briff'. 5. 396. t. 35. Common Heron, male, Latham. 3. 83. Br. Zool. N* 173. t. 61. A, Cinerea. Lin. 236. Le Heron, Ardea. Brif. j. 392. t. 34. et Le Heron cco- dree. p. 403. Co MM OK 47« Faunuld Hekuetictu Common Heron, female. Latham, ib. Br, ZooL ib. Very convnon in .S>yitzer]^d| A. Garzetta. Lin, 237. L' Aigrette. Egretia. BriJ'.c.^^i. The Little Egret. Br. ZooL 2. jipp. p. 631. t. 7. • LMtbam. 3. 90. A. Stcllaris. Un. 239. Le Buior. Boiaurus. Brijf. 5. 444. t. 37. f. I. The Bittern. Br, ZooL N» 174. # A. Albr. Zm. 239. Le Heron Blanc. A. Candida. Brt/f. 5. 428. White Heron. Br. ZooL N*^ 175. Very rarely feen. A. Minuta ^. Un. 240. Le Blongios. Ardeola. 5r^. 497. t. 40. f. I. Little Bittern. Br. ZooL 2. App. 633. t. 8. Co;nmoD. A. Grifea. Un. 239. Le Heron gris. A. grifea. Br^. 5. 412. t. 36. f. I. Ash-coloured Crane, or Night Raven, female. I4- tbam. 3. 53. A. Huppe do Mahoo. PU Enlum. t. 348. Mahon Heron. Tantalus. Un, 240. Ibis, T. Falcinellas. Un. 241. Lf Courly verd. Numcnius viridis. Brjf. 5. 326. t. 37. * f. 2. Bay Ibis. Latham. 3.213. Ara. ZooL p. 460. ^^ A few of ihefe birds are feen every year in Switzer- land. Scolofax. Un. 242. Curlew. S. Arquata. Un. 242. Le Courly. Nuraenius. Bri/f. 5.311. The Curlew.' Br. ZooL N* 176. t. 63. S. Phaeopus. Un. 243. Demi Courly. Le Petit Courly, ou le Corlicu. Bri/f. 5. 317. t. 37. f. I. Numenjus minor. TheWHiMBRiL- Br. ZooL N** 177. t. 64. S. Rufli- Faunula Helvetica* 477 S. Ruflkola. Un. 243. La Beccafle. Scolopax. Brrffl 5. 292. Woodcock. Br. ZooL N° 178. t. 6^. It breeds in the Alpine mountains. S. Gallinago. Un. 244. La Beccafine. Gallinago. BriJf. 5. 298,1. 26. f. i. Common Snipe, .flr. Zoo/. N° 187. t. 68. S. Gallinula. Un. 244. La Petite Beccafine. Galling minor. Brijf, 5. 303. t. 26. r. z* Jack Snipe. Br. ZooL N° 189. t. 68. S. Glottis. Lin. 245. Lagrandc Barge grife. Limofa grifea major. BriJf. ^, i^j^, t. 24. f. 2. Green Shank. Br. ZooL N® 183. S. Limofa. lin. 245. Le Barge. Limofa. ^r^ ^. 262. Lesser Godwit. j?r. ZooL N^ 182. S. Totanus. Lin. 24^. La Barge grifc. Limofa grifea. Bri/f. 5. 267. t. 23. f. i* Spotted Snipe. Latham, 3. 148. Br. ZooL N° 186. S. Calidris. Un. 245. Le Chevalier. Totanus. Briff'. 5. 188. t. 17. f. i. Red Shank. Br. ZooL'N^ 184. t. 65. S. Fufca. Un. 243 ? La Barge brune. Limofa fufca. Bri/f 276. t. 23. f. 2. Dusky Snipe. Latham. 3. 155. yfrr • Lc grand Pluvier, ou Courly dc Terrc Pluvialis Major. lirlf S' 77- t- 7- f- '• ^ T^o Thick-kneed Bustard. Br, ZooL N jco. C. Hiraantopus. Lin. 2$^, L'Echaffe. Hlmantopus. ^rljf, s-l^'J-r'^'^' I] ^ , ^ Long-legged Plover, ^r. ZooL N*^ 209. //. ^fo/. 35. 14. Rarely fcen in Switzerland. , C. Pluvialis MorincUus flavefcens. Germt ornithol a Florence, t. 474. Courvite. Pi Enlum, ']<)$' Cream-coloured Plover. Latham. 3. 217. Very rare. / t ' Recurvirostra. Lin. 256. Atoset. R. Avocetta. Lin. 256. of L'Avocette. Avocetta. Brtf 6. 538. t. 47. 1, t. Scooping Avoset. Br. ZooL N«* 228. t. 80. Hjematopus. Lin. 257- Oyster-catcher. H. Oftralsgus. Un.t^yi. p vr . -,« t <. L'Huitrier, ou Pic marine. Odralega. BrtJ 5. 38. t- 3.^ f. 2. ' Pied Oyster-catcher. Br.ZooLN"^, 213. t. 74. FuLiCA. Lin. 257. Coot. F. Fufca. Lin. 257. t> -it c. La Petite Pouic d*Eau. Gallmula Minor. Brijf. 6. p. 6. / /: BiOWN Gallinule. Latham. '^. zto. F- Atra. /«««. 257. LaFoulque, ou Morelle. Brlff 6. 23. t. 2.f. i. Common Coot. ^Sr. Zoo!, N° 220. t. 77. F. •Atenima Un. 258. , r^ T»vr • » vr La grande Foulquc, ou la Macroule. F. Major. BrUI. 3. 28. t. 2. f. 2. Great Coot. /^r. ZW. N^ 221. F. Chloropus. Faunula Helvetica* 481 P. Chloropus. Lin. 258. La Poule d'Eau. Gallinula. Brlff. 6. p. 3. t.,i. f. 1,2. Common Gallinule, or Water Hen. Br. ZooL N* 217. t.77. R A L l u s. Un. 261 . Rail. R. Crex. Lin. 261. Le Roi de Caille. Rallas Geniftarum. f. Onygoraetra. BriJf. 5. 159. t 13. f. 2. The Crake Gallinule. Br. ZooL N® 216. t. 85. R. Aquaticus. Lin. 262. Le Rofle d'Eau. Rallus aquaticus. BriJf. 5. 151. t. 12- f. 2. Water Rail. Br. ZooL N^ 214. t. 75. R. Porzana. Lin. 262. f La Marouette. Rallus aquaticus minor, f. Maruetta, Spotted Gallinule. Br. ZooLN° 2i§, Glareola. -ffri^ V. p. 141. Genus 73. Pratincole. G. .Pratincola. La Perdrix de Mer. Glareola. Bri^, 5. 141. t. 12. f. la Hirundo Pratincola. Lin. 345. Austrian Pratincole Latham. 3. p. 222. t. 85, Otis. Lin. 264. Bustard. 0. Tarda. Un. 264. L'Outarde. Otis. Briff. 5. 18. EJta. t. 73. 74. Great Bustard. Br. ZooL N''98. t. 44, Sometimes vilits Switzerland, in winter. Vol. II. I i O R D O # r 482 Faunula Helvetica, OrdoV, galling. Gallinaceous. T E T R A O. Ltn, 273. T. Urogallns. Lin, 273. ,»»/•• d -/r Le grand Coque de Bruyeres, Urogallus Major. Brtff. u Wood Grous. 5r. Zool N''92. t. 40.41. T. Tetrix. Lin. 274. r 1. d /r Le petit Coque de Bruyeres, a queue forchue. BnJ. Bla'c'k Game, or Grous. Br. Zool N° 93. t. 42. T. Lacopus. //in. 274. ,, , t Le Perdrix de Niege. La Gclmotte Uanche. Lagopus. Br'ilf. I. 216. Ptarmigan. .0/*. Zoo/. N' 95. T. Bonafia. Ltn. 275. La Gelinotte. Bonafa. .^r/f. i- ^9«- ^ ^ , Hasel Grous. Xa/^iJ/w. 2. 744. j1r£^ *^ooi. i^. py. T.* Attagen. La Gelinotte huppee. Brjf i . 209^ Red Grous. Latham. 2. 746. Br, Zool. N 94- . T. Rufus. Lift. 276- ^ r La Bartavclle. Perdix grxca. Brtf. 1. 241. t. 23. !. U Greek Partridge. Latham, 2. 767. Frequent in alpine iituations. T. Perdix rubra. La Perdrix rouge. Brlff. i. 236, ' Guernsey Partridge. Latham. 2. 768. An ? Varietas rufx, quaerit Unnaus. Tr Perdix. Lin, 276. Perdrix grife. Cinerea. Brlff. 1. 219. Common Partridge. Br Zool. N' 274. T. Coturnix. Lin. 2']S. La Caille. Coturnix. -Br^^. i. 247. Tht QuAiL. Br. Zool Br. Zool, N° 97. O R DO Faunula Helvetica, 48s Ordo VI. PASSERES. Passerine. C o L u M B A. Ltn. 279. Pigeon. C. Oenas. Ltn. 279. Le Pigeon Sauvage. Oenas f. Vinago. Brljf. i. 86. Common Wild Pigeon. Br, Zool N° loi. t. 45. C. Palumbus. Ltn, 282. Le Pigeon ramier. Palumbus. Brlf. i. 89. Ring Dove. Br. Zool N° 102. C. Turtur. Lin, 284. La Tourterelle. Turtur. Brl/f. i. 92. Turtle Dove. Latham. 2. 644. A L A u o A. Ltn, 287. Lark. A. Arvenfis. Lin, 287. L*Alouette. AUuda. Brlf. 3. 33 J. Sky-Lark. Br. Zool N° 136. t. 35. A. Pratenfis. Ltn, 287. L*Alouette de pres. Forloufe. A. Pratenfis. BrUT 2. 343- Tit-Lark. Br. Zool. N° 138. A. Arborea. Lin. 287. • L'Alouette de Bois. A. arborea. Brlf. 3. 340. t. 20. f. I. Wood- Lark. Br, Zool N° 137. A. Campeftris. Lin. 288. Alouette de Champs. A. campeftris. Brl/f. 3. 340. Meadow Lark. Br. Zool N° 378. A.»Criftata? Lin. 288. L' Alouette hupee ou le Cochevis, A. criftata. BrUf. 3- 357- Crested Lark. Latham, 2. 389. Ii2 A. Tri- 484 Faunula Helvetica. Faunula Helvetica, 48 s Hit! A. Trivialis. Lin. 288. L'Alouette de Buifon. A. feplarla. BriJI. 3. 347. Grasshopper Lark. Br, Zool. N^ 156. hue fpe6lat. A. Curruca grlfea nxvla. La Fauvette grife tachettee. Bryj, SttppL 112 t. 5. f. 2. Aliiuda minima Locullse voce Locuftella. D. Johnfon. Rait. Jv. p. 70. N° 7. Latham. 2. 429. S T u R N u s. /i«. 290. Starling. S. Vulgaris. Un. 290. ■ L'Etourneau. Sturnus. Brif. 2. 439. The Starling. Br. Zool. N** 104. t. 46. S. Cinclus. i.i«. 290. Le Merle d'eau, ou Merle aquatique. Merula aquatica. Brif. 5. 252. Water Ousel, flr. Zoo/. N° i i i . Very cummoo. TARDUS, Lin.zgi. Thrush, T- Vifcivorus. Lin. 291. La grofle Grivc. T. Major. Brif. 2. 200. Missel Thrush. Br. Zool. N^ 105. T. Pilaris. Lin. 291. La Litorne ou Tourdelle. Pilaris, f, Turdula. BriJJ. 2. 214. The FfELD Fare. Br. Zool. N^ 106. T.r Iliacus. Lin. 292. Le Mauvis. T. Iliacus. BnJJ, 2. 208. t. 20. f. I. Red-winged Thrush, -^r. Zool. N'' 108. T, Mulicus. Lin. 292. La petite Grive. '1. Minor, -ffr^ 2. 205. The 'J hrostle. ^r. Zool. N'lO'j. T. Saxatilis. £;w. 294. Le Merle de Roche,, ou Moincau folitaire, of the Swlfs. Briflbn's bird is the fame with the Lanius infauftus. Lin. 138. Rock Shrike. Latham, i. 176. — Rare. T.*Rofeus T.*Rofeus. Lin, 294. Merle couleur de Rofe. Merula rofea. Brif, 2. 250. Rose-Coloured Ousel. Latham. 2. 50. Br. Zool, 2^ App. 627. t. 5. — Very rare, T. Merula. Lin. 295. Le Merle. Merula. Brif 2. 227. Black Bird. Br. Zool, N"^ 109. t. 47. T. Torquatus. Lin. 296. I-e Merle a collier. M. torquata. Brif. 2. 27^^. Ring Ousel. Br. Zool. iM° loo. i, 46. Common on the nlountains. T.*Arundinaceus. Zm. 296. La RoufTerolle, ou Roucherolle. BriJ, 2. 219. t. 22. f. I. Reed Thrush. Latham. 2, 32. T. arundinaccus^ Ampelis. Lin. 297. Chatterer. A. Garrulus. Lin. 297. Le JafTeur de Boheme. Bombicilla bohemica, Brijf, %, 333- Waxen Chatterer. Br. Zool. N* 112. t. 48. Very common at uncertain periods. LoxiA. Utn. 299. Grossbeak. L. Curriroftra. Lin. 299. Le Bee croifle. Loxia, Brg, 3. 329. t. 17. f. 3. Cross-billed Grossbeak. Br, Zool. N*^ 115. t. 49, L. Coccothraultes, Lin, 299, Le Grofbec. Coccothrauftes. Brif. 3, 219. Haw Grossbeak. Br.ZooL N» 113. L. Pyrhula. Lin. 300. Le Bouvreuil. Pyrrhula. Brif. 3. 308, The Bull-Finch. Br. Zool. N° 116. Le Chloris. Un. ^04. Le verdier. Chloris. Brif. 3. 190. Qreen Gross-beak, ^r. Zoo/. N" i i 7. M Embe- 4S6 Faunula Hchetka» EM31MZA. Ii«. 3c8. Bunting. E. Miliaria. Un. 308. Le Proycr. Cynchramus. BrtJ. 3. 292. Common Bunting. Br. Zool. N«» 118. j:.*Hortulanus. Lin. 309. L'Ortolan. Hortulanus. Bnf.J. 269. The Ortolan. Ifl/^-im. 2. 166. Jra. Zool. p. 369. JE. Citrinclk. Lift. 310. Le Bruant. Citrinella. BnJ. 3. 258. Yellow Bunting. Br. Zool. N" 119- *• S©- E. Cia. i^w. 3^o- ■ ^ T> n- ^ ^f^ Le Bruant de pres. E. pratenfis. ^r^ 3- ^66. Meadow Bunting, or Foolish Bunting. Lat/^am. 2. 191. ^" lI Bruant de HayV E- f^piaria. Brif. 3. 263. CiRL Bunting. Latham. 2. 190. E. Schoeniclus. Lin. ^11. a j- «. /?^;/f L^Ortolan de Rofcaux. Hortulanus Arundinaccus. BnJ. Re^d Bunting. Br. Zool. N"" 120. Fringilla. Lm. 317. Chaffinch. F. Calebs. Lin. 318. Le Pin9on. Fringilla. BnJ. 3. H^j^ - Common Chaffinch. Br. Zool. N 125. F. Montefringilla. ^'«- 3i8. Le Pin9on d' Ardennes. Montifnngilla- Bnf. 3. 155. The Brambling. .fir. Z(7o/. N*" 126. F. Carduelis. Lin. 318. Le Chardonneret. Cardudis. BnJJ. y 53. The Goldfinch, ifr. Zoo/. N*' 124. F. Serinus. Lin. 320. Le Serin. Serinus. The Serin Finch. Briff. 3. «79- ^ Latham. 2. 296. F. Citrinella. Faunula Helvetica, * F. Citrinella. Lin. 320. Le Serin d'ltalie. Serinus Italicus. Briff. y 182. The CiTRiL Finch* Latham, z. zg"]. Common in Switzerland. 487 F. Splnus. Lin. 3'22. Le Tarin. Ligurinus. Brt//". ^.6^. The Siskin. Br, Zool. N^ 129. t. 53. F. Cannabina. L/«. 322. La grande Linotte de Vignes. Linarla rubra major. Brif y I is- RtD-HEADED LlNNET. Br.Zool.N° I38. t. 54. F. Linaria. La Linotte. Linaria. Bri/f, y 131. The Linnet. Br. Zool, N'^r30. Latham, 2. p. 302. F. Linaria. Lin. 320. La petite Linotte de Vignes. L. rubra minor. Bri/f. 3^ 138. Lesser Red-heaued Linnet, or Red-pole. Br. Zool. N° 132. t. 54. F.* Linaria minima. Le Cabaret. Brijf. 3. 142. The Twite, Latham 2. 307. Br, Zool, N° 133? F. Petronia. Lin. ^ii, Le Moineau de Bois. PafTer fylveflris. Bri/f. 3. 88. t. 5. f. I. Ring Sparrow. Latham. 2. 254. F. Montana. Un. 324. Le Moineau tBiannicus. Lin. 342. a.^K* P harbatus. La Mefange barbue, ou Le Mouftache, i'. baroatus, Briff:-0'S^r JIlRUNDO. Faunula Hehetica» Hi R UNDO. Un. 343. SWALXOW, 491 i H. Ruftica. Ltn. 343. LeHirondelle de Cheminee. H, domeftica, Brl/f, 2.486. Chimney Swallow. Br. ZooL N° 168. t, 58. H. Urbica. Un. 344. Le Martinet a cul blanc. H. minor, f. xuftica. Brt/f. 2. 490. The Martin. Br. Zool. N° 169. H. Riparia. tin. 344. L*HirondeIIe dc Rivage. H. riparia, five Brepanis, Br^^ 2. 506. Sand Martin. Br. Zool. N° 170- H. Apus. Un. 344. Le Martinet, iri. Apos. Br\l]. 2. 512. The Swift. .5r. ZW. N^ i 7 i . t. 58. H. Melba. /,/«. 345. La grande Hirondelle d'Efpagne. H. major. Hiipahica, Br'tjf. 2. 504. White-bellied Swift. Latlam. 2. ^B6. Edvt.t^ 2^. Caprimulgus. Lin. 346. Goatsucker. C. Europaeus. Lin, 346, La tete-chevre, ou Crapaud volant. Caprimulgus. Brif^ 2. 470. t. 44. Nocturnal Goat-sucker. Br, Zool, N® 170 1. 59. CLASS P r 492 paunula Helvetica, M CLASS III. H I B J A. Ordo I. REPTILES. R A N A. Un. 354. R. Bufo. Lin. 354. Rubeta five Phymrum. Gef. aquat, p. 807. Le Crau- paud. The Toad. Br. Zool 3. N** 4. R. Rubeta. Ltn. 355. Natter Jack. Br. Zool. 5. N° j. R. Bombina. Un. 355. ' Black-backed Frog. R. Temporaria. Un. 357. ^ quatica innoxia. Gef. ^aJ. o*vip, p. 46. aguat. p. 805. CoMMOK Frog. Br. Zool. 3. N° 2. R. Verrucofa. Dorfo fubangulato, palmis tetradaflylls fiflis, plantis hexadadylis palmatis tuberculatis. Nova Specks, It very much refembles the foregoing. It was difcovered in the Pais de Faud by Count Ra%omo£jhy, who will defcribe it particularly in his H'ljlo'ire Naturelle de Jorat : a work which will very foon appear. R. FJculenta. Un. 357. Rana five Rubeta gibbofa. Gef. ^ad, ovip. p. 63. aquat. 4. V. p. 809. Edible Frog. Br. Zool, N° 3. Paunula Helvetica, R. Arborea. Lin. 357. Ranunculus viridis f. Rana Catamite aut Dryopeta. ^ad. ovip. 60. aquat. 800. Tr E E Fr o G . La Raine Grenouille de St Martin, 493 Gef L a C E R T A. Un. 359. Br. Zool. 3. N«9. L. Agilis. Un. 363. Le Sauteur, The Eft, or Swift. L. Varia. Cauda verticillata longa, fubter Intea, fupfa viridi cinerea, ex nigro, albo, caeruleoque varia. Nova, This is nearly allied to the agilis, and will be defcribed alfo in the abovementioned work by Count Razomofjhy. L. Vulgaris. Lin. 370. Lacerta vulgaris. Raii ^ad. 294. Salamandre de Terre. Brown Lizard. The Newt. L. Aquatica. Un. 370. Lacertus Aquaticus. Gef. ovip. 31. Salamandre d*Eau. L, Paluftris. Un. 370. Salamandra aquatica. Raii ^ad. 273. The Water Eft, or Newt. L. Salamandra. Un. 371. Salamandra. Gef. ^tad, ovip, 80. Salamandre Jlirvine. R. Arborea. Ordo 494 Pauntda Helvelicm* OrdoII. SERPENTES. Coluber. Lin. 357. C. Berus. Un. 377. Vipcra. Gefn. Serp. p. 124. Rait ^aJ, 285. La y^ipere ordinaire. TheViP^R. 5r.Zoo/. 3. N^i 2.1.4. C- Natrix. Un. 380, Natrix torqiiata. Gefn. Serp. i lo. Raii^ad. p* 334. Couleuvre a Collier. The Snake. Br. Zool. 3. N" 13. t. 4. A N G u I 8. Lin. 390. A. Fragilis. Un. 392. Caecilia f. Typhlops. Gefn. Serp. 60. Rati ^ad. 289. Orvert. The Blindworm. J?r. Zool. 3. N°36. t.4. Ordo in. NANTES- Petromyzoh. £iff. 394. Lamprey. P. Marinus. Xin. 394. Lampret. Meerneuratige. Lampetra. Raii Pifc. p. 35. Sea Lai^rey. Br. Zool. vol. 3.N' 27. t. 8. This comes up the Rhine as high as Bade ; fometimes higher, hut not frequently. P. Fluviatilis. Lin. 304. Das Neunauge. Ger. Perce Pierre. Lamprillon. Fr, Lampetroe medium Genus. Ray. "p. 35. L&ssER Lamprey. Br. Zool. N* 28. t. 8. Sometimes caught in the Rhine. In the lake of Ncu- chatcl. Mr. Van Berchera. » P. Bran« Faunula Helvetica, Agr P. Branchialis. Lin. 394. T>tv ^erder. Lampetra parva et fluviatilis. Ray. 35. Pride Lamprey. Br, Zool. N^ 29. t. 8. In rivers and brooks not unfrequently. AcipENSER. Zm. 403. Sturgeon. A. Sturio. Un. 403. Der Stoer, Sturio. Ray 112, The Sturgeon. Br. Zool. N° ^^. t. 19. It has fometimes reached up the Rhine as high as Bafle, but rarely. CLASS 49<5 Faunula ffelwtica. CLASS IV. PISCES. OrdoI. APODES. Apodal. MuRiENA. //««. 425. Eel. M. Anguilla. Lin. 426. Dtr. Aal. Ger. L'AnguUle. Fr. Anguilla. Ray. .^7. The Eel. Br. Zool N« 53- , ^ 1 1 r xt Common in almoft all the lakes. In the lake of Neu- chatel. Mr. V. Berchem. Ordo II. j'uGULARES. Jugular. Gad us, Lin. AtiS' Codfish. G. Lota. Lin. 440. Die ^af^e, Treifchen. Aalraufc. Ger. Loite. Fr. Mudela fluviatilis. Ray. 67. The Burbot. Br. Zool N' 86. ^ Very common in the lakes, and fometimes grows to the weight of eighteen pounds. Lake of Neuchatel. Ordo HI. THORACICL Thoracic. COTTUS. I.lVl.45»- BULL-HEAD. C Gobio. Un. 45a. I)^^ ^^^^^/ ^^"^^ ^"'- ^^'^^'• />. Gobius fluviatilis. Ray. 76, River Bull-head. Br.Zool^ 97- 1. 39- In the rivers and brooks, very common. Lake ot INeu- chatel. B, PiRCA. Fautmla Helvetica* 497 f E k c A. lin, 481. Perch. P. Euviatilis. Lin. 481. Der Barfch. EgU. Ger. Perche. Fr, Perca fluviatilis. i?Jj^. 97. The Perch. Br. Zool. N^ 124. t. 48. In the lake of Neuchatel. Gastbrosteus. Lin. 489. Stickleback. G. Aculeatus. Lin. 489. Der Stkhling* Pifciculus aculeatus. Ray. 145. Three-spined Stickleback. Br. Zool. N<* 129. t. 5c. G. Pungitius. Z/«. 491, P. aculeatus minor. Ray. 145. Ten-spined Stickleback. Br. Zool. N* 130. t. 50. Both thefe common in the brooks and rivulets. Ordo IV. ABDOMINALES. Abdominal. C o B I Ti s. Lin. 499. Loach. C. Barbatula. Lin. 499. Die Schmerk. Cobitis fluviatilis barbatala. Ray. 12^. Bearded Loach. Br. Zool. N® 142. t. 58. Common in all the brooks. C. Taenia. Lm.^^t). J>^r Steinpizger. C. barbatula aculeata. Ray 124. The Smerlin Loach. C. Foflilis. Lin. 500. Der Schlamptzger Meergmndel. Mifgum feu Fifgum, Pifcis Lampetriformis. Ray. 70. Lamprey Loach. Phil. Trtmf. vol. 44. p. 451. t. 2. f. I. In the Rhine. Vol. II. K k S I L u r u s. 49$ Faurtula Helvetlis, SiLURus. Lin. ^01. Sheat-fish. S. Glanis. Lm. 501. l>tx Welh, Gti. Lc Salut. /^r. Silurus. Ray, p. 70. The Sheat-fish. In fome of the lakes of Switzerland. In that of Ncu- chatel. S A L M o. Lin, 509. Salmon. S. Salar. Un. 50c. Der Lacks. Le Saulmon. Fr. Salmo. Ray. 63. In the fpring it is called Dalm, The Salmon. Br. Zool. N° 143. t. ^8. It comes up the Rhine into the rivers of Switzerland in the fpring, and is taken in large quantities at Baflc. S. Trutta. Lin. 509. Truitte. Fr. Trutta Salmonata. Ray. 63. Salmon Trout. Sea Trout. Br, ZooL N® 145. In the lake of Neuchatcl. M, Berchem. S. Lacuftris. Lin, ^10. Dcr Rhcin-odcr Ilanitn. Trutta lacuftris magna. Gffn, Fife, p. 1003. -^^J'* P* C^.fub, N 4. Lake Salmon* Common in the lakes ; fometimes weighing fixty pounds. S. Fario. Un, 509. Die BachforeUe, Trutta fluviatilis. Ray, 6^, The Trout. Br, Zool. N*» 146. t. 59. In almoft all the rivers, brooks, and torrents. S. Umbla. Un. 511. Der RUter. Gcr. L'Orabrc cheva- lier, Fr. Umbla prior, Ray, 64. The Umble. In the lake of Geneva it grows to twenty jKHinds weight and upwards. In the lake of Neuchatel. S. Alpinus. Lin. 510. Das Roteli, Umbla minor. Ray. 6c. TheCHARR. Br, Zool. N° 149. t. 60. Common in the lakes ; that of the lake Zug excels in flavour. In tlie lake of Neuchatel. ^ S. Thy. Faunula Helvetica, 499 S. Thymallus. Lin. ^12, THix^ Aefche. Ger. Ombre, iv*. Thymallus. Ray, 62, The Grayling. Br, ZooL N® 150. t. 61. S. Lavaiettus. Lin. ^12, La Pallee. /V. Lavarettus Allobrogum; Ray, 61. The GwiNiAD. Br, ZooL N" 152. t. 62. Linnseus comprehends feveral varieties under this fpe- cies. I am as yet uncertain whether the following are fpecifically different or not. In the lake of Neuchatel. «. Adelfelch. In the lake of Conftance. /8. Der Gangffch. In the fame lake. y, Albula caerulea. BlauHng. Alllul. S. Albula. Lin. ^12. Hagling, Albula minima. Ray, 61. Gefn, Fife, p. 34. The Herring Salmon. f E so X. Un. 515. t*I K B. Efox Lucius. Lin, $i6.DeT ffeck. Ger. Brochette. Fr, Lucius. Ray, 12. The Pike. ^r. ZW; N° 153. t. 63. Very, common. In the lakes of Zug and Geneva they grow to fifty pounds j and in that of Zuric an in- fiance occurred of one that weighed fcventy pounds. The beft are caught in the lake of Joux. In the lake of Neu- chatel. B. C Y p R 1 n u S. Lin. 525. Carp. C. Carpio. Un. 52J. Die Karpfe^ Ger. Carpe. Fr, Cyprinus. Ray. \\\^. The Carp. Br. ZooL N° 165. t. 70. Common in the lake of Zug, where they reach th« weight of from fifty to fevcnty pounds. In the lake of Neuchatel. C. Barbus 528. Die Barhe, Ger. Barblau. Fr. Barbus. Ray. 12 1. The Barbel. Br. ZoJ. N« i66.'t. yr. Frequent in the rivers of Switzerland. At Zurich they are taken from ten to twelve pounds weight. In the lake of Neuchatel. K k 2 C. Gobio. i 500 FMunula ffclvftic/i. Fauntila HelvtttCM, x,%x C. GoWo. Un. 526. Dcr Grumdling. Gcr. Gongeoa. Fr, Gobius fluviatilis Gcfn :ri. R^jv. 123. The Gudgeon. j5r. Zoo/. N*^ i6>. Plentiful in the lakes and river? ; but not m ich cf- ttemed at the table. la the lake of Neuchatcl. C. Tinea. Lin. 526. Die &:hUye. Ger. Tanchc. Fr. Tinea. Ray. 1 1 7« The Tench. Br, Zool N** 167. Common in the lakes. In that of Genera they ar* caught of three pounds weight. In that of Neuchatel. C. Cephalus. Un. 527. Der Aland. Ger. Chevenorc. fr. Capito five Cephalus. Ray. 1 19. The Chub. Br. Zool. N^' 175. t. 73. , , , , In many of the rivers and lakes of Switzerland. In the lake of Neuchatel. M. Van Bercbm, C. Nafus. Un. 530. Die Nafe. Ger. Nazoz. Fr. Nafus Alberti. Ray. 1 19. TheNASE. . ^ . ^ » ., So plentiful in the riters, that m the month of April fometimes an hundred thoufand have been caught in the Sirs. In the lake of Neuchatel. G. Brama. Lm. 551. Der i^A^. Coprinus latus five Brama Ray. 116. The Bream. Br. Zool. N** 169. t. 70. C. Ballerus. Un. 532. Die Gupr, Ballerus. Ray. 117. The Bream Bleak, or Ballbr. Common in the lakes. C. Dbhuk. Lin. 528. Der DoebeK Mugilis vel Cephali fluviatilis Species mhior. Ray. I22* The H AS LER.— Frequent in the rivers. C. Lcucifcus. Un. 528. Der Ltubtn* Leucifcus. Ray. \i\. The Dace. Br. ZqoI. N^' 17^.— Common in the lakes. CG.rif. C. Griflaginc« Un. 1529. Grillagine Anguftse di(5lus Gobii fluviatilis Species. Ray, Grefling. Germ. Vaugeron, Fr. In the lake of Neuchatel. M. Berchem^ <# C. Rutilus. Z,;«. ;;29. Das /?o/Atfw^^. Ger. Rotte. /r. Rutilus f. Rubeflus fluviatilis. Ray. 122. The Roach. Br. Zool. N^ 172. figure in frontifpiecc. Plentiful both in the Jakes and rivers. In the lake of Neuchatel. C. Alburnus. Lin. 531, Der Ukeley. Weifs-ffch. G^. Able /> Alburnus Aufonii. Ray. 123. The Bleak. Br. Zool. N" 176. t. 73. This is among the moft common of all our fifhes. C, Bipun<5latus. Die Alandblde. Bloeh. tab. 8. f. a. bene. C. Erythrophtalmus. Un. 530. Die Ul^ete. Bloch. tab. i. Rutilus latior, f. RubeJlio fluviatilis. Ray. vx"^ The RuD. Br. Zool. N° 170. t. 72. ' j^ Common in the rivers, %■ C. Phoxinus. Un. 528. Die Elrixe, Bambcle. Varius feu Phoxinus laevis. Ray. laq. The Minnow, or Pink. Br. Zool. N® 177. t. 5. f, 6, Frequenjt in thecies. Not the Striatula of Mu/Ier, pk 24. H. Hifpida. Mull. 268. Lin. %?, 675. List. Aig. t. 2. £ 12. La Velout^e. Die Samtfchneke. Ger. BrilHy Snail. Da Costa. Br. Conch, p. 58. t. 5. f. 10. H. Succirtea, A new fpecies. Not the Succinea of Muller, P- 97. H. Incarnata. Mull. 259. Schroeter, p. 174. t. 2.f. 18. Carnation-mouthed Snail. H. Fruticum. Mull. 267. Schroeter, p. 178. t. 2. f. 10, BuOi Snail. ^ H. Hortenfis. Mull. 247. Garden Snail. H. Nemoralis. Mull. 246, Lin. S^J, ^91. List.. j4ng. t. 2, f, 3. u 504 Fmunula Helvetua. Fatmuh Hehetims SOS LaLiyrce. Fr. Die WaldfclMicke. Ger. Wood Snail, Da Costa. Br. Coruh. p. 76. t. 5, f. 2.— 8. 14. 19. Penn. ZooL N° 131. H. Monuna. A new fpecies. H. Arbuftorurn. Mull. 248. Lhn. S^. 680. List. Ang, I. 2. f. 4. Hedge Snail. Da Costa. Br, Conch, p. 75. t. 75. f. 6. Penn. ZooL N° 130. t. 85. H. Afperfa. Mull. 253. Arc. i.t. 28. f. 11. Le Jardinier. Fr. Die Gartenfchneke. Gar. Specks led Snail. H. Pomatia. Mull. 253. Lin. Sjifl. 677. Lc Vigneron. Fr. Die Weinbcrgs Schneke. Ger, Edible Snail. Da Costa. Br. Conch, j^, 67. t. 4. f. 14. Penn. ZooL N® 128. t. 84. H. Fulva. Mull. 249. Topaz Snail. H. Sericea. Mull. 258. Silky Snail. H. Aculcata. Mull. 279. Prickly Snail. . t H. Rupeftris. A new fpecies. H. Mufcorum. Mull. 304. Lin. 5jjy?. 651. Turbo Muf- corum. Le petit Barillet. Fr, Das Kleine Fafchen. Ger. List. Jng. t. 2. f. 6. Mofs Snai]. Da Costa. Br, Conch, p. 89. t. 5. 16. Penn. ZooJ. t. 82. N"ii8. H. Coronata. GeofFroy. Par. N* 19. Le grand Barillet. Fr. Das grofle Faffchen. Ger. Rundlet Snail. H. Quadridens. Mull. 306. List. .yyc. t. 40. f. 38. L*Anti Barillet. Fr. Das Linufgedrchtc Fafchen. Ger, Four-toothed Snail. ' H. Cochlea. A new fpecies. H. Exigua. A new fpecies. ' * H. Lubrica, Mull. 303. List. Ang. t. 2. f. 7. La Lu BriUante. Fr. Das glanzcnde Spitzfchneke, Gar. Glofly Snail. H. Obfcura. Mull. 302. List. Ang, t. 2. f. 8? Le grain d*Orge. Fr. Das Gerftenkorn. Gen H. Sylveftris. A new fpecies. H. Detrita. Mull. 300. Gualt. T^. t. 5, N. H. Cylindrica. Geofr. N° 16. Le grain d*Avoine. Fr. Das Haferkom. Ger, Cylindrical Snail. H. Bidens. Mull. 315. his.S^. 649. List. Syn. t. 41. A. Die glatte Eedfchraube. Ger. Bidentated Snail. ■ ' PtHN. ZooL N° 117. t. 81. fine numero. Hf Jyf^icpfa. A new fpecies. |i. Rofcida. A new fpecies. li. i^erverfa. Mull. 316. Turbo perverfus. Lin. I[j/?. 650; List. Ang. t. 10. f. 10. Syn. t. 41. f. 39. La nonpareille. Fr. Die geftrikte Erdfchraube. Ger. Contrary-mouthed Snail. Da Costa. Br, Conch, p. 107. t. 5. f. 15. Penn. Z90L t. 18. N^ 1 16. H. Muralis. A new fpecies. H. Parvula. A new fpecies. H. Acicula. Geofr. N° 21. L'Aiguillette. Fr. Der Senkel die NadeL Ger. Needle Snail. H. Peiliicida. Mull. 215. La tranfparente. Fr. Die Durchfichtige Schneke. Ger. Pellucid 5nail. H. Virefcens. A new fpecies. H. Impura. A new fpecies. H. Putris. Mull. 296. Lin. Sy/i. 705. List. Ang, 140* t. 2. f. 24. L*Amphibie : I \ joi Faunula Helvetica, L'Amphibie : L'Ambr^c. Fr, Die Beydlebegc, Kahufchneke. Get. Araphijblous SnaiJ. Da Costa. Br. Conch, p. 92. t. ^y f. 13. Penw^ Zool t. 86. N° 137. H. Elongata. New fpecies. , H. Anguft. New fpecies. POMATIAS. Studer. MS. Vermis cochleatus, tentaculis duobus linearibus, oculis ad bafin externe. t » ■ 1 P. Elegans. Nerita elegans. Mull. 363. l^i^r, Ang t. 2« f. 5. Syn. t. 27. f. 25. L'Eegante Stride Fr. Die Feingeftreichte Deckel- fchenke. Ger. Nerite^Pomatias. P. Variegauis. A new fpecies. VERTIGO. MuLLER. G. t. 146. i. 147. 3. 147-2. OvaTMya. M. Rivorura. M. Riorum Mull 397. ,. Tefta crafla rudi fiilca. Mya P,aomm. Lin. S^II. 28. List, Ang. t. a. » ^r P'""^^' Mufcle, or Mya. D* Costa. Br Co„ch. p. «8. t. ,5. f. 4. p'„H. zool. X. 4t APPENDIX. m APPENDIX TO T« E SECOND VOLUME. Vol. U. LI APPENDIX. A Catalogue of the principal books occafion- ally confulted in the eourfe of this publication. A. Remarks on feveral Pdrts of Italy and SuoitZerland^ By J. Addifon. 8vo. London. Francois Jofeph Nicholas d'Alt de Tiefenthal Hijioire des Helvetim, lo vols. 8vo; Fri- burgh, 1750—1753- Aporta's Hijioria Reformationis Ecctefiarum Rbati-^ car urn. 2 vols. 416* Ciiris Raetorum 1771^ 1777. Andrea's Briefe aus der Schweitz nach Hanovef gefchrieben. 4tOi Zurich and Winter thur^ 1776; Tableaux Topographiqiies, Pittore/ques, Pbyftques^ Hijhriques, Moraux, Pclitiques^ et Literaires di la Suife. /Par M. de la Borde. Fol. PariSi 216 plates. The text is chiefly written by Baron Zurlaben of Zugi LI 2 Manuel 5i6 APPENDIX. Manuel pour les Savans et les Curieux qui voyagem en Suijfe ; par M. Beffon. Laufanne. 2 vols. 8vo. 1786. Memoires Critiques pourfervir d' Edairciffements fur divers Pbints de rUiJloire ancienne de la Suijfe, &c. ; par Charles Guill. Loys de Bochat Laufanne. 3 vols. 410. 1747 — ^749- Nouvelle Defcription Generals et particuliere des Glacieres, vallees de Glace, et Glaciers qui for^ • ment la grande chaine des Alpes. Par M. Bour- .rit. 3 vols. 8vo. Geneve. 1785. Zme Letters containing an Account rf what feemed mofl remarkable in Sivitzerland and Italy, &c. Written by G. Burnet. 8vo. London. 1686. D & f . DiSlionaire de la Suiffe. a vols. 8vo. Tranflated into German, and greatly augmented, under the following title : Hifiorifche, Geographifcbe, und Pbyftcalifcbe Befchreibung des Schweitzer- iahdes. 3 vols. 8vo. Bern, 1782. Johan Conrad Faefis Pfarrers der Gemeindc Uetikon Staats und Erdh fchreibung der Scbwei- ierifcheri Eidgenoffchaft \ durch. Joh. Conrad Fuefslin. 4 vols. 8vo. Zuric, 1768. Joh. Cafpar Fuefslin's Gefchichie der Beflcn Ku- enfUer in der Schweiiz. 5 vols. 8vo. Zuric, 1769. Staats vnd Erdbcfchreibung der Schweitzmfchcn Eidgenofchaft ; durch Joh. Conrad Fuefslm. 4 vols. 8vo. Zurich, i77o« G. Hijloire A ? p 1: N P I X, G, 517 Hijloire abregee des Officicrs Suiffes qui fe font dif- tingues aux Services Etrangers dans d^s grades fuperieurs. Par T Abbe Francois Girard. 3 vols. 8vo. Fribourg, 1781, 1782. Die Eifgebuerge des Schweitzerlandes hefchriebet^ von Gottlieb Sigmund Gruner. Bern, 3 vols. 8vo. 1760. Ratia DaS'ift Aufsfucliche und warrahfte Befchrei^ bung der dreyen loeblicben Grawen Buendten und anderer Retifchen Voelker. Durch Johannen Guler von Weineck. Fol. Coira, 1616. H. Hacquet's Phyftkaliche Politifche Reife aus den Dinarifcben Rbatifchen in die Norifchen Alpen^ in Jahre ly^i und 1783 unternomnien. % y^^. 8vo. Leipzig, 1785. Gottlieb Emanuel von Hdkr, &c. Bihiiothek 4er Schweitzer Cejbicht^ und i^Jer Tbeile fo dqhin Bezxghaben. 6 vols. 8vo. Bern, 1785-^1788. A feventh volume, contains a general index. * Helvetifcbe Biblioth^k. 6 V0I5. 8vo. Zuric, 1735 —1 741. Briefe ueber die Schweiiz. Von C. C. L. Hirfch- feld. 2 vols. i2mo. Leipzig, 1776, 1785. ' AJboft Account of the Ancient Hijlory, prefhit Go* vernment, and Laws, ef the Republic of Genen va., byG. Keate, Efq. 8vo. London, 1761. Kuetner's 5i8 P P E N D I X, Kuetner's Brief e cines Sachfens aus der Schweitz an fetnem Freund en Leipxig. 3 vols. 8yo, Leip- zig, 178- 1786. L. Jacob Lauffer's Profeff. Eloq, et Hift. Genaue and Vmjlaendltche Be/chreihung Hehetifcbcr i.cj^ chichte, &c. 18 vols. 8vo. Zuric, 1736— 1739. Leu's Mgemeines Helvetifches Eydgenoftfches oder Scbweitzenfcks Lexicon, Zunc. 20 vols. 4to. ,^^y_i765. Supplement, 2 vols. 4to. Memorie IJioriche della Valtelina, da Pietro Angclo Lavizzari. 4to. Coira. 17 16, Memer*s Briefe ueher die Schweitz. 2 vols. 8vo. Berlin. 1784, 1785- Xeonard Meifter's Heheiiens Beruehmte Maen- ner. 2 vols. 8vo. Zuric. 1782, 1786. . Beruehmte Zeurkher. % vols. 8vo* 1782. - Kleine Reife durch einige Schweitzer Cantone. 8vo. Bafd, 1782. Hauptfzenen der Helvetifchen Gefchi^hte, 8vo. 2 vols. 1784. Helvetifcbe Szenen der neuern Schwar^ jnerey und Intolcranz. 2 vols. 8vo. 1785. Gejhichte von Zuric. 8vo. Zuric. ^78.6, ' Abrifs APPENDIX. 519 •— Abrifs des Eydgenoffifchen Staatrefchtes. 8vo. St. Gallen. 1786. Gefchichte Schweitzer if cher Eydgenoffchaft, Durch Johannes Mueller. % vols. 8vo. Leipzig. 1786. P. Helvetia Aniiqua et Nova Opera et fiudio Joh. Bapt. Plantini. 8vo. Bermae. 1656; alfo Ti^. Helvet. 1737* Differtatipni Criticl^fioriche intorno alia Rezia di qua delle Alpi oggi della Valtelina d*all Abbate Francefco Xaverio Quadri* 3 vols. 410. Mi- lano, ilSS—^lS^' R. Voyages Miner alogiques en Suiffe. Par M. le Comte Gregorie de Razomoflki. > 8vo. Laufannc, Hifloire la Reformation de la Suiffe. Par M. Abra- ham Rochat. 6 vols. Svo. Geneve 1727— 1728. ■ ■ Delices de la Suijfe, Svo. 4 vols. Leide. 1714. Firft publifhed by M. Rochat under the fiftitious name of Gottlieb Kyff.ler, Re- publiflied feveral times. Improved edition in 2 vols. 4to. Neuchatel. 1778. S. Voyages 5^0 APPENDIX. S. Yojages dzm les Alpes. Par H. B. de Sauffute, &c. 2 vols. 4to. OF 4 in 8vo. Geneve. Scheutzeri Itinera Alpina. 4 vols. 4to. Lug- dun. 1723. Beytraege Zur naehern Kenntnifs des Schweitzer- Landes. Von Rudolf Schmtz. Zuric. 8vo. 1785, 1786- Gefchichte der Entlibucher. Von Jofeph Xaven Schmder von Wartenfee. 8vo. 2 vols. Lu- zern. 1781, 1782. Catalogue raifonnee d^s Manufcripts conferves dans la Sihliethe^m de Geneve. Par Jean Sennebier Bibliothecaife de Geneve. «vo. Geneve. 1779- Hiftoire Literaire de Geneve. Par M. Sennebier. 3 vols. 8vo. Geneve 1786. De Repuhlicd Helvetivrum Libri due^ auflore Jofia Simkto Tigurino, fee. Tiguri apud Fr^f- chovser, 1576. 8vo. 409 pages. A new edi- tion improved, by Fueflelin, bears the fol- lowing title : Jofi4e Simleri de Rcpublicd Hei- vetiorum libri duo^ in quibtis Helvetiorum fadera, mores ^ belli et pacis jura^ totamque illorum Rem- publkam funmd fiae defcribit. Jdjundum eft compendium Hiftoria Helvetica Anfiqita^ AuBore Jo. Cmrado Fuefslino, qui etiam Hiftoriam Hel- vetiorum ab aufpiciis reformat, fidei ad hac tif- que tempora ex antiqui nominis Script or i bus ex- oticis mutaliones fafius paucis enarravit. Ti- guri 1734. 8vo. pages 699. Catalogue APPENDIX. S^i . )i Catalogus codicum MSS Bibliotheca Bernenfts^ An- notationibus criticis ilbi/iratus. Curante J. R. Sitiner. 3 vols. 8vo. Bernae 1760 1772. Voyage Hiftorique et Literaire de la Suijfe. Par J. R. Sinner. 2 vols. 8vo. Neuchatel, 1781. Hiftoire de Geneve. Par M. Spon. ReBifiee et confiderablement augmentee par d*ampla Notes. 4 vols. i2mo. Geneva. 1730. Pallas Rhatica Armata et Togata, Author e For- tunato Sprecher a Burneck. 410. Bafel. 16 17, or in 16. Lugden Batav. 1633. Stanyan's Account of Switzerland. 8vo. London. Storr's Alpen-reife, 2 vols. 4to. Leipzig 1784. Gefneiner loeblichen Eydgenofchaft Stetten Landen und Voelkeren Chronick-Wuerdiger Thaten Bef- chreybung. Durch Johannen Stumpfen. Fol. Zuric 1546. T. Tcharner's Hiftorie der Eydgenqffen. 2 vols, 8vo. Bern. 1756 — 1768. .^gidii Tchudi De prifcd ac vera Alpina Rhatid. 4to. Bafel. 1738. ■ Chronicon Helveticum, &c. He- raufgegaben von Johann Rudolf Ifelin. 2 vols. Fol. Bafel 1734, ^736. Thefaurus Hiftoria Helvetica. Fol. Tiguri. 1735, Statuti della Valtelina^ &c. Delia Latina nella volgar Lingua tradotta. Par M. Giorgio Tra- verfo. 4to. Coira. 1737. W. Hifloria -.1 52Z APPENDIX. W. Hifforla Naturalis Heh^ei'ia cur'iofa, in VII Sec^ trones digcjln, Audcre Jo. Jacob Wagnero. 12010. Tiguri. i68'o. lijloirc de la Confcdcrat'ion Hdvetique- Par M, Alexandre Louis de Waltewille. 2 vols. 8vo. Bern. 1738. alfo Yvcrdon, 1768. D'lvernors Tableau Hijorique et PdiUque dcs Re^ imlttiQis de Geneve > a Geneve 1782. Tranf- lated into Englifh, and publifhed under the following title: An Hift(yncal and Poetical View of the Conjlitution and Revolutions of Ge* ncva in the Eighteenth Century. By Francis D'lvemois, Efq. Dublin, 1784. Baron de Zurlaub^n's Hijiom Militaire des Suijes an Service de la France avec des pieces jufiicatives. 8 voU. in izmo. Paris 1751 — 1753- ■ Code Militaire des Suijfes paur fcrvir de fiiite a I'HiJloire Militaire des SuiJJes au fervice de la France. 4 vols, in 1 2mo. Paris. 1738 — 1764. No. APPENDIX. 523 No. I. 1 H E following TABLE exhibits the prefent order of the thirteen cantons, and the aera of their reception into the Helvetic confer deracy : C o c d A-* c a 1 c 'C Zuric Berne Lucerne • Uri — Schweitz Underwalden Zug Glarus — 1 fBafle . 2 I Friburgh — — i ^ Soleure I SchafFhaufen — - jg (^Appenzel Reformed relieion ^350 Reformed ^352 Catholic — 1332 Catholic 1315 Catholic 1315 Catholic — 1315 Catholic — ^352 Mixed — 1351 Reformed 1501 Catholic — •481 Catholic — 1481 Reformed 1501 Mixed 15^3 T^ 524 APPENDIX. APPENDIX. 52s The quota of troops to be furniflied by each canton in cafe of war, will appear from the following diftribution, which was fixed in 1668, in order to form a confederate army of 9,600 men. The fame proportion to be obferved, if an augmentation of troops might be thought ne- cefTary : -Zuric Berne — Lucerne Uri — Schweitz TJnderwalden Zug Glarus — Bafle — Friburgh Soleure Schaffhaufen Appenzel ■W^F 1,40a ^,000 1,200 400 600 400 40a 4OQ 400 80Q 6qo 400 600 9,000 No. 2. No. 2. 1 USED my utmofl: endeavours to render the General Map of Switzerland, which accompanies this work, as complete as pofSble ; and as there ^as no accurate delineation of the whole coun- try yet given to the public, I colleSed the beft maps of the various parts of Switzerland, which I was able to procure. From thefe authorities, which are here enumerated, Meffrs. Palmer and ^aker compiled the prefent engraving ; and to their merit the public is indebted for, what I hope, will be deemed, the beft general map of Switzerland yet extant. 1. Carte de la Suijfe Romande qui comprend le Pays de Vaud et le Gouvernement d* Aigle^ dependant du Canton de Berne^ divifes en leurs BailUages. Oil ron a diftingue ceux qui appartiennent au Cdnton de Fribourg et ceux qui font poffedes en commun par ces deux Republiquesy ainji que les Etats et Pays adjacents. Levee Gcometrique* menty Sous la Permiffion du Soverain. Par le S. H. Mallet, Ingenieur Giograhe. 178 1. 4 ftieets. A moft excellent and corred map. Canton Bafel. Daniel Bruckner Auflor, Ema- nuel Biichel Delincavit. Grave a Bdile^ par P. L. Auvray, Parifien. Sous les Soins de M. de Mechel. 1766. A very correct map. 3. Carte Chorographique de la partie occidentale de POberland ou le ComtS de Gruyeres divife en qua- tre Bailliages ou Gouvernemertts Ajjavoir Gruy* ercs. Sanen. Ober SibenihaU et Nider SibenthaL ou 2 hi: 526 4, P P E N D I X. on fe Trouve le Gouvernement (TA'tgle, et le Battliage de Vevay, Avcc les Frontieres de la Repubiique de fValais, et dcs Fays Circonvoijtns. Obfervcefur les Lieux et drepe fur le Manufcrii de Samuel Loup de Rougemont. A Londres^ Ptiblie par Ade du Parhment. 1754- Tolerably correcli a. Topoiraphifce Tabelle des untern.Amtes dei- Liicernerifchen Vogtei Entilbuch Samt dem Markt zu fVoIbanfen begrciffenddie PfarreienEntilbuch Romos, Hajli, Dcplifchwand, undTheds. Viol' hatifen und Malters^ 1782. b. Tcpographifcbe Tabelk der beiden EntHbucher^ jEmter Schupfheim und EJchlifmatt in Canton Luc em. c. Carte de la Partis fuperieure de J^EntUluch. d. Befondere Vorfiellwig der ganzen Landfcbaft Entlibucb^ famt einem Thed des benachbahrten Obwalden und Brtenzerlandes. Thefe accurate maps of the fmall dlftrict of the Entlibuch were publiflied at Lucerne by the Rev. M. Schnider, author of the Gejhichte der Entli- buchery or Hiftory of Entlibuch. 5. Cbarte des Vkr Walpttcr Sees \ publiflied without date or name of place in 17^5: re- prefenting the Lake of Lucerne, parts of ths cantons of Schweitz and Underwalden, and of the diftrict of Engelberg; This little map, printed with moveable types, appears to me correcl. 6. Canton Solothurn^ five Pagus Helvetia Solodu^ rcnfis cum confiniOus recenier delineatus per Ga- bruicm IValferum^ V. D. Ai. edcntibus Homann tkredib, Norimberga, 1766. C. P. S. C. M. The APPENDIX. 5- *>•♦ S The errors of this map, which is extremely imperfed, have been as much as poilible cor- reded. Route de Bah a Bienne par la ValUc de Mm^ tier et Pierre Fertuis dam VEvechs de BdL\ 178 a. Verycorrea. Nouvelle Carte du pays de Grifons^ azec fts de- pendanca la ydtelint^ le Comte de Chiavenne et BorniJo, Rhaiia Ftsderata cumfuhditis ei terris. Amfidodami Joannis Sinien, A^ 171 1. Johannes van Lug^ tenburg Geographi, Deline. et Sculp. During my travels through the Grifons^ 1 found thk map tolerably corred. g. Mappa della Linea e dei Termini di Confini iU rata fra lo Stato di Milam e Dominio Rbcto 1764, Very corredt. I p. Carti delli Bdiaggii Smzzeri, di Lugano e di Me7idrifiOy Deffta di G. Conr. Finfler di Zurigo. Grave par Claufner a Zug i786. In Schintz Beytraege zur naehcrn Kenntnife des Schwcit- zerlandes. 11. Die Landfchaft'Livenen Valle Leventma J. H, Aleyer del. 1784.. Claufner Sculp, in Zug. In Schintz Beytraege. Having never vifit^ thefe ffarts delineated on thefe maps, I cannot pretend to aflert from my own knowledge that they are exad ; but have every reafon to pro- nounce that they are not incorred. 12. Helietia Pagi feu Cant ones 13, &c. Noua Helvetia Tabula Geographica^ &c. a Job. Ja- cobo Scheuchzero Tigurino Med. D. Math. Prof. 17 12. Four (heets. For the north- eaftern parts of Switzerland. This ft ■i 528 APPENDIX. This map, although imperfeft in many parts, was neceffarily followed, in order to complete the whole, and particularly for the Borth-eaftern parts, for which it is allowed ta be the heft map extant, 13. Carte Topfigraphique (PAUemagne^ fait par J. W. laeger a Francfort fur le Mein fe vend . chez Fauteur avec P. de S- M. I. In many iheets. The whole has been correfted as much as poflible from my journals, and from the obfer- vations which I made d\iring my fucceffive tra- vels in Switzerland. W\ ITINERARIES of four tours through Swit- zerland, in 1776, i779. ^7^5. ""^^^^l^^.^ with the diftances marked in leagues and EngUlh miles. It may be ncceffary to apprife the tra- veller, that although I fpared no pains in order to afcertain the refpedive diftances, yet in many places, and particularly in the mountainous dif- trifts, it was impoflible to obtain that degree of accuracy which I could have defired. For in thofe parts, the diftances being not meafured, can only be conjedured from the time employed in traverfmg^them. TOUR APPENDIX. 529 Dites. I 1 w u 1^ m 1770. July PNTERED Switzerlan •^ from Strasburgh f 20. and Donefchingen 21. ^/ SCHAFFHAUSEN - Lauffen to the Cataract SCHAIFHAUSEN - 23- DicffenhofFen Stein by luafer to the IJle of - Reickenau - • Constance 24. /. of Meinau Constance Rojhach - by land to 25- St. Gallen Tuffen 26. Appenzel # Oberried - 27. Saletz Werdenberg Trivabach Sargans 28. Wallenftadt by water to Wefen by land to 29. Glarus ^ - Schwanden to the Panten-Bruck 30- , Glarus \ Bilten Diflances. Leagues. iMrles. 3t Vol. II. I 3i 2 6i 2 6\ 4^ 14J li 5 5 16^ 5 1 61 9 30 2t 7 It 4 2r 8t 3 10 3 10 2 61- 3 10 I 3t 3 10 4 13 2 61 Ir 5 2i 9 4t >4 2*- 9 M m 533 p p E N D I Dates. July * 10. il. Leagues. Miles. Sibnen Einridlin - Rapp^rfchwyl by ivaiet" to ZuRic by land to Albls Cappel ZUG by water to Immenfee by land to Kufnacht - [yy ivater to Lucerne riuelen by land to Altdorf Am Steg - Wafen Devils Bridge io Spital on St. Cotbard Ho/pital Realp over the Furca ^ Obergejielen Munfter Obergeftelen Spital on the Grim/el Handeck - : Meyringen Grindelwald Lauterbrunnen Leijingen jEfchi 4l 25 APPENDIX. 53« Dat«<. ■ Frutigen - * Dilbr i€68* Miles. August Leagues. i6. 2? 7t Kanderfteg - Winferegg * ^ 3 10 2 64 over the Ge?ii?ni »7' Baths of Leuk 3v 124 r Leuk 3 10 1 Siders 3 10 . St, Leonard 3 1 64 19. Sign .» 1^ 5 ! Ridda 2 t\ Martigny ^ 3.^ 8i 20. St. Maurice 2^ 71- J to Bex I # 3t 4 Martigny - 3* 23. Trient 2:-. 8t Valorjtne li 5t 33- the Priory in the ' Valley of Chanwuny - 3 10 Salenche 4 13 25- Clufe ^ - 3 10 Bonneville 3 10 Arthas t 6i Chene 1 6*- 26. Geneva f 14 Verfoi * i| 5t Sept. Copet 3 24 I. Crajft ti 5 Nyon »T 4 Rolle 2i 7: Morges 2t 9 2. Lausanne a^ 7-i Lutri I 3t Cuiili I 24 Vevay a 6'- 1 Lausanne 31^ I2i Mm 2 It ••ii 5, J2 A P P E N D I X. •^ ^ Dates. • Diflances. Sept., Leagues, j Miles. Coffonex 3 lO 6. ^f^bbaye 3i Ili >! Romain'moHer 3 lO Orbe It . 4 8. Yverdun 2i 7^ /o Clendy ■ V } ^ Granfon I Zi » St. Aubin 3 lO Boudri li 4v 9- Neuchatel li 5 X .• Vallengin - I ti Chaux de Fond ii li lo. Lode ^i Si 11. Neuchatel Zi IOt - Thielle ^i Si Anet I li Walperfdnvyl ii 8t ■ Morat 4 •3 ^3' Avenches It 5 14« Friburgh ii 9 Neunec 3 lO »5- Berne ii 9 •r Worb li 5 Signau 3 t lO i8. to Langinau It 5 20. Berne 6 20 Riederen It 4 Gimmenen - It SJ Morat ^- 2 6i Avenches It 5 21. Pay erne 2 6* Marnaw If 5 Moudon - ii 81- Montpreveires 2* 7-3: 22. Lausanne 2 6i- Dates. Sept. ^3- 24. Oct. 21. 23- 24. 25 26. 27' 29, P P E N D I X. 533 • ' m Difiances Ljeagues. Miles. Merges ?t 7t Rolle - ii 9 Nyon • - i^ 7r Craffi - It 4 Copet - Ii 5 Gcnthod - If 3t Geneva - li 4t to Plvigi^on.— Returned to Geneva Copet ii 8t Craft If 5 Nyon It 4 Rolle a 7i Morges ii • 9 Lausanne ii 77 Echalens a W 9i Yverdun 3i lOi- Granfon I 3* St. Aubin 3 10 Boudri li 41- Neuchatel li 5 St. Blaife I 3t Neuville » li Gi- Bienne 3 lo Grenche 2f K Soleure ii 7J- Wietlifbach 2 ei Balfial 2 6f Waldenburg ii 8*^ - Leichftall ii 9t to Aug/i li 5J- Basle 2 6-^ 534 A P P E N D I X. Dattf. TOUR in 1779. WNTERED Switzerland DifUfiCM. ' L^agiKt. MHo. July • from Milan, COMO - • - 8 26 « Mendrifio 2i 7i CoMO 2i 7i * hy water io Pliniana »i 4 19. Clarice H 71 Domafio • H 9 Colics m i 2i • by land to ^ Fort Fuentes i 2i by water to Riva H 7i by land to ^ 1 • .ao. Chiavenna 2 64 Bondo 2J 7i Cafaccia n 8i io Siglio ^ 2 6i 3»* to St. Morezzo I* 5 Selva Piana i H Julian Columns 2i 8} to Bivio li 5 St* Morezzo 4* 'Si August - Bevers • li 4 I. ZiKz H 5 2. Scamp/ I 4. Cernetz 2J 9 Lavin IJ - Ar-detz 5 5- Scuol H 5 Remus li 4 I>lauders 3J i 10!. A P P E N D I Sates. August 6. X. 535 Dlilances Sept. 18. 19. 20. 24. 25- Craun • «?/. Maria over the Bralio Bormio Sondalo Tirano Teglio Sondrio P. St. Piedro MoFbegno to Dalebio Morbegno Sondrio Chiefd Cafaucia Bondo -i Chiavenna Ifola Splugen Andeer Tiifis Reich enati CoiRE to Haldenftein ComE Churwalden Fatzferol Alveneijut An der Wiefen Claris Davos Lar&t Kublis Leagues. Miles. 2t 7c 5t I \ 7i- 2r 7 4:- 14I 2i 71- 3 10 li 5^ ^i 9 It 5 2t 7t I^ 4 It 4 At 14 I- 2 2 I T 3l 2t i^ S T 5 T 2t , 3 li- lt 3r 5^ 16:- 8t 7t 10 II 9 9 Sh % 2 5i 7i- S\ 5 5 4i 3'i lO'r \_. S3^ APPEND Dates. Sept. 26. 27' 28. 29. 30- Oct. I. I X. Diftance?. 2. League*. Schiers Malans Ffejfers to ih€ Baths Ffei'ers Zitzers CoiRE Reichenau Trins llantz Truns Difentis Ciamut Vrferen Wafen Am Steg Altdorf Fluekn by water to Brunnen J?y land to SCHWEITZ Brunnen by water to Gerifau Buochs by land to ' . Stantz . Stanizftad by water to Lucerne by land to . Honau Knonau 2i 3 4 H 3i H t "**4 I I a 21 ^4 Miks. 8i 7i 5 2i 2^ 5 5 5i 3* 10 9-1 7i lot 5i 6 8 6i I 4' 7i 3i 3i 5 4 U 7i 8 J Dites. Oct. 4- 6. July 18. 9« 20. ft. P P E N D I X. 537 ^/6/j Diftaoces. Leagues. Miles. 2i 7t ZURIC 2i K Bajerjlorf • 2t 4 7t 4 Winterthur It 5t /^ Frauenfield - 3t loi: ZuRic 7t 24 Dieticon 2t- 7t Baden 2t 7 Konigsfelden J-^ 5^ to the Baths of Schintznach I 3t 9 Hapjburgh . 1. 4 J 4 Bruck 2 li^ Stille 7 2^ Klingnau 2 6t • WaWlhut - - I ;5* TOUR in 1785. Tj'NTERED Switzerland /row Munich, r at SCHAFFHAUSEN to the Catarad at Lauffen - I 3l ScHAFFHAUSEN I 3i Lotjletten 2^ 9 Eglifau 2t I 7v Bulach It 4 Kloten 2 61- ZuRic 1 1 Si Me'ile 2 61- by water to Weddenjlhweil It 5 53* APPENDIX. A P P E N D I July 24. 35. 26. Aug. 2. 12. ^y land t§ Richlifwick * by ivater to I. $/ Ufnau Rapperfchwyl by land to Grunengen UJiar by water to Falanden by land to ZuRiC Regenfberg to the top of the Lagerberg ZURIC by water to Baden by land to Windijh Kcnigsfelden \to the Baths of Schintznach Hapjhurgh Bruck by water to LaufFenburgh Basle /aSxRAdBURGH. — Re- turned to Basle by land to Arlejheim Basl& DlAancet. Leagues. -I I 2| 2i It I 4 li I T I > 8 61 Miles. 3i 5 3i 9i 9i 3i 5 10 3i 13 3 31 26 21 5 5 DfttM. August »5- 16. 18. 21. 22. 24. Reinach GrelUngen Lauffen Delmont Corrandelin Munjler Molleray Pierre Pertuis Reuchnete Biekne Grencbe SOLEURE Kilchberg Hindelbank - Berne Worb Signau Langenau Efchlifmat Shuepfen Endibuch IVolhaufcn Makers Lucerne Winke by water to Alpnacb by land to Same by water to Saxelen by land to Kernwald Stantz Graffsnort 2t. 53$ Difttere*. LeagtMn. Mile*. If 5 I 3t It 5 3 10 I 3t It 5 2t H I 3t 3 6t 2 6t 2t 7 2t 8t 2| 9 It 4 i\ 9 It S 3 10 It 5 3 la It 5 2t 8t 2t 7 2 6t 2f 7 I 3t 2 6t li 5 2 It It 5 2 6t 2t 7t i 54° APPENDIX. APPENDIX. 54< Dates. August 25. 26. 27- 28. 29. Sbpt. I. J' 6. 7- 8. 10. Engelberg over the Suren Alps to Altdorf Am Steg Wafen Urferen Hofpital to Spital on St. Gothard Hofpital Realp over the Furca andGrimfel to Spital Handeck Meyringen Grindelwald Lauterbrun7ien Leijtngen JEfchi Frutigen Kanderjieg Winteregg over the Gemmi to Baths of Leuk Siders St. Leonard SlON Ridda Martigny Trient *the Priory afcended Montanvert Valorftne Trient Martigny St. Maurice DiAance^l. Leagues. 5 at 2 i^ 5t 2 4 4i- 3 3 1 2^ 3 2 3 2 2-1: 3:- 27. Miles. i6f 8t 6i- 5^ 3t 5^ 6i 18 6i- 13 10 10 3t 7t 10 6t 12^ i6t 6i- 5 6t 8t 0:p 2li 10 si 8t Dates. Sept. II. 12, '3- 16. Oct. 6. t 7- i •; 8. 9- 1 Bex /£? Bevieux Bex Aigle Villeneuve - Vevay i'j' water to Meillerie Ouchy ^ by land to Lausanne Merges Rolle Nyon Copet Geneva to Lyons. — Returned to PONTARLIER St. Pierre Verrieres Motiers Travers Rochefort Neuchatel Thielle Anet Walperfchwyl Morat Friburgh Motier Greng by water to Motier to Mount Vuilly Greng - - , Diftances. Leagues. Miles. I 3t I It JL ,i % •t If 5 2t 7 .2^ 7 at 7t 2-^ 9 J- S 4- T 27 7t 2| 9 2t 7t •4 5i 2t 8t I «i J* li 5i 2-^ 9 I 2t 3t 7i '1^ Si '1: Si I 3t 2t 8t 4 a 4 »3 4 '3 i « « a Is-^ s T 2 x _ »' a IT 3 ?t i'*f1 tft 54* A P P £ If t X- Thief. Dinaneei. jp-iw Letgues. Mllei. OrTOBER V ^^ %,.^ m %^ JLM *> »^ *y 7^/2^ /(? 12. Coujouvaux J. If Morat li 4- X If - Arberg 3t Hi 1 Nidau - r li S\ »^- BlENNE - r 3 T It Reuchnete 2 6t Pierre Pertuis 2 6t * . Tavannes - , X If J&/? A% It J . Glovillier 3 10 14. PORENTRU 4 '3 Grandvillard ■? 10 BefFort 27 7t Altkirch - 6t 20t '5 Basle 20 Blotzheim 24 Q 4 1 MULHAUS£H 1 3t h TOUR in J786. Sei>t. ji'NTERED Switzerland from Paris and Dijon, through PONTARLIER St, Pierre I aX .^ 4. Joigne ^i 9 18. Orbe 34 II 19. St, Barthelemi 2| 9 iio. Merges 3t 12 Rolle 2i 9 Nyon 2t 7f Copet »: 5:- A P P E N D J X. 543 Ptte«. Sept. 23- «9- 30- Oct. I, 2. 9- to Geneva , Copet . • Nyon Rolle Morges - St, Barthelemi prbe . Yverdon Granfon S/. Aubin Boudri Neuchatei, St, Blaife Neuville by water to L, St. Peter Neuville by land to Neuchatel Thielle Anet Walperfchwyl Morat to Villars Morat Greng by water to Motier Greng by land to Coujouvaux to Friburgh Greng Morat Gimmenen Diftancet. Leftgues. Miles. «f 8t «t 8t 14 S\ ftt 7t %'x 9 St U «!• 9 *f 7i: t 3t 3 10 14 4t It 5 t 3t If 6t It 4 •t 4 ^\ 9 14 5i I 3t at 8^ 4 '3 X . t X 17 It X ,X % Ix f T 2 5 T 2 X 3 4- T 31^ 12 4 13 X X If 1 6i- i It 544 APPEND Datec October 17- i8. 19, 20, 21. 24. 25^ 26. 1. 28. Rlederen Berne MaJJic to Thun Majffic Worb Berne Hindelbank Kilchberg Burberg Murgenthal Zoffingen Tagmerfellen Surfee Adelwil Lucerne Honau - ' Knonau Albis ZuRic Baffirjiorf . •Winterthur -IJlikon Frauenfield Mulheim Constance Zell Schaffhausen Neunkirch Lauchingen Waldlhut Lauffenburgh Seckingen Rheinfelden Basle I X, 1 Diilances. ' Leagues. Miles. i| St It 4 2:- 8t 3:- lit 3^ I It i^ Si ir 5 zi 9 '^ 4 a I2t It 5 2i 7:- 2 61- l| 5i 9 2^ 7t 2t 8t _ 3 2 + 9 2t 7i 2t I 8t 2?- 7i I^ 5i 2t 71 I 3t 2 t 6| 3y "4 I 5T 18 1 18 • 2 6- 3 10 3 10 3 10 if s 2 6^ 3 10 i ■ii I N D E X< ^^, river, vol. i. p. a49, ,55, ,5^, ^$7. cittraft of the, atfi. - in IuZ'a '7u' ''*'*• *VP '*^'. '^?- ''' ^°"^"»» »5"- §°'*^, a burgh, vol. ii. p. 410, N D X. / ^igh, faltworks, vol i. p 439- government, 44i» 443-. Aenen, fmgular palTage from Leuk to that village, vol J. p. 3^8» 3»9- jilbert, o. Hai-fburgh, the emperor, afTafllnated, vol. i. p. 119— »*»• jiibis^ a vilUgt near Zuric, vol. i. p. ao8. Albnia^ torrtiit, vol ii. p 336 « -r /- f„«c trnl 1 d. Alliance, perpetual, between France and the Sw.fs Cantons, vol. 1. p. 100 et jeq. infrinyed upon, 104^8-107. Alps, chain of, vo! ii. p. 66 — 78. AlP-bnchy a cafcade, vol. i. p 304. , . . Alpnach^ a village .n Untcrwalden, vol. 1. p. 148? 149' AlpUheUnen-bom^ mountains, vol. ii. p. 73, 74; AlUsAnenes, a hc^ufe in Upper Engadina, vol u. p. I93> '94- Altdorf, the chief burgh ot the canton Un, vol. i. p. a4i. Alttts, mountains, vol ii- p. 74- „j ««» 5 n \6i Alntude, of difterent mountains upon the globe compared, vol. 1. p. 361 —364. Ahene'w, baths of, vol. ii. p. 33 41*' y^rvtfren, river, vol. i. p. 373* . .. , 1 • « ,,« At'v^ t'.wn of; P. N. Chenaux retire, thither, vol. i. p. 519. Afiefioi^ a rock of, near Chiavcnna, vol. 11. p. 19 1. ^:*'^Wr." «;;t''frH4"i" .he S.a- .f .h. Furca, vol. i. Jl^lul?^ Rauricorum an ancient Roman town, vol. I p, 152, i$3- ASamh.s, bodies of fnow that fall from the mountain., vol. .. p. 31*. rhtr villa-e of Leuk pa.tly deUroyed by one, 3»<5» 3\7 ^ >f^.M^ anciently ^veniicum, a burgh in the Pais de Vaud, vol. ,. p. • "^Z U ^m 506, etP,. curious Roman Moia.c pavement, 507 B. Badew^ N D B. X. Baden, town of, vol i p. ,,3. hlftory of, iM government ir^ ^.r.„/r«. Conftitution and go vernmer.t, ,38-.,42. m.^de of ele^^on. ibid, eledion of profeffors W fump|„ary laws 144. liberty of the citizens, ibid. eVca .on! 145* population, ibij. ' uuw.uua, Balftal, valley of, vol. i. p. lyp. Za^ar^/Vi^ near Martigny, vol. i p. 340. ' St. Beat, mountains of, vol. ii. p. 69. ^r'^1^8,^89.'^"""*^' inreiching the fammit of Mont Blanc, vol. i. ^f/^mr/tf, village, vol. ii p 431. Bellano, town, vol ii. p. 167. ^.//.%, abbey of, vol. i. p. ,59, ,50. military academy there, thid BelhnKone, town of, vol 11. p. 42a its biftory, 421— 42c Belpberg, mountain near Berne, vol. ii. p e-j, 68 Berchem, Mr Van, his account of the bouquetins, vol. i. p. 402 ^^r,r, city of, vol. fl. p. ,. buildings and fituation of, ,, 2. hiftory a population of the town and canton, 3. fociety, ,-J tradr r' k ruble buildings, ,W. adminimation'of juftic.,^; pub ic ^ra'; ^ibfi ^''ioZl^h^d^'"' '^^ mathematician, vol. i. p. ,43. account of hi. thre* Be'ver, village, vol ii. p. ,93. Bevio, village, vol. li. p. 190. J^iV-:^, fal.works, vol. i. p. 444, ^45. Bex, laltworks, vol. i. p. 439—444. BeKa, Theodore, vol. ii. p. 95. B/air^, cabin, vol. i. p. 366, 369, 373. Ulakeberg, mountain, vol. i. p. 257. Blaueherg, mountain, vol. i. p. 283. Blumlts alp, vol. ii. p. 73. N n 1 Si(n»e, ^\- Bllft M X. France, loi. . ^ Btrjb, or P'Vx, r.ver, vol. i. p. 147» »»*» »*»*'» ' * ^ci\ glacier of, vol. t p 37*. B9«a Bruitlautnen, glacier, vol. n. p. 73- f rrn^/, lake of, vol. >■ P- 44». Brib4ct, river, vol. i. p 3- $;^rone of t t^J-^^ VaUala, ,... i. p. 33.. iS- 2'4'.,M:"rrv'o' t p. 4,1 Rom.. i.fcrip.i«. upon . bridg. .cr.f. A.. »r'.V.rt villtee, vol. i. p.»3«- treaty of, »43- . KtVr^ * P otenaot bailliage in Soleure. vol. .. P- l8<- 8«- B.ZxZt the infurgent. of Crujere. met there, vol. .. p. S»7- Bundi-prefident. See Ctirc. i •: „ ,,* S-J/, Mr. Auftrian cftvoy at Rcichcnai, vol. .u p. 3«3. C. CsUnisfy N E X. Calendar^ mountain, vol. ij. p. 319. Calvtn^ John, the reformer, his chara6\er, vol. ii. p. 94 — 97. Campelj Huldiic, bis valuable woik upon the Gri«ons, vol. ii. p. 106, 107. account of hjm and his works, ao;--!!©. poetic verfion of ihe Plain. s, 409. Canale veccbio^ vol. ii. p. i65. Cappely battle off vol. i. p 57. 109. Carmagnela^ an Italian general, vol. ii. p. 413. Cafaucia, village, vol. ji. p. 184. CaftaSegna^ a village, vol. ii. p. 17^. CaJielltMy John Nicolas Andrew, a kader of the infurgeots of Gruyeres, vol. i. p 52^, ctfeq. his flight, 533, 534. Ca/sf/, vtUage, vol. ii. p. 310. Cflerinoy plan of, vol ii. p. i85. Cenero^ mountain, vol. ii. p. 417. Cepitto^ valley of, vol. ii. p. 115-^136. village, ibid, Cerlier^ caftle, vol. i. p. 487, 488. Cemetsiy in lower Engadina, vol. ii. p. 205. ChatilUrdy t town on the lake of Geneva, vol. 1. -p. 436. Cbablait^ vol. i. p. 41;^. ChaUety ft glen near Munfter, vol. i. p. 158^170. Cbambery fecret. See government of Friburgb. Cbamoisy an animal in the Alps, vol. i, p. 197, 498. Chamouny, valley of, vol. i. p. 356. glaciers of, 359, et/eq, Cbarbonntersy village, vol. i. p 448. Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy, befieges Morat, and is difeated, vol. i. p. 497 his imprudent wars with the Swii.s, 498, et jeq. is flain in the battle of Nancy, 504. cQufequencts ot his death to Switzerland, 504, 505. Cbarles U grosy relics of, vol. i. p. 14. hiftory of, ibid. Char let the 7th of France, treaty with him, vol i. p. 151. La Chaux de Fond^ a village, vol. i p. 463, See Lscle. Chenauxy Peter Nicolas, a leader of the infurgents at Gmyeres, vol. i. P 5^<^» 'J i'H flies to Tour de la Treine, 529. advances to Pofieux, 529. retires, 519, 530. taken, 533, and killed, 534. Cbensy a village, vol. i p. 413. Chiappinus impt:aches Rufca, vol. ii. p. 307. See Rmfca. Cbiavennoy lake of, vol. li. p. 170. town of, 189. hillory, and govern- ment, ^89, 290 fituation, population, and commerce, 199. curiofitiea in the environs, 190—193. Cbillottj caftle of, vol i. p. 440. Chci/eur^^ folly. See Ffr/ai. Cbmrzoaid.tty diftria, vol. ii. p. 331^. Cimury village, vol ii. p. 363. CUrens. Ste Cbatillard. Clariecy village, vol. ii. p. 155. Cleflery village, vol. ii. p. 342. Clufey town of, vol. i. p. 423. CUfettCy a pafs in Neuchatel, vol. i. p. 481. Cicuvrety Marquit de, vol. ii. p. 106, his hiftory, %o6y %o)» Ccgnty ilill N X. N D E X. t.n9ne^ vallev of, vol. ». p- 4^5* ?r/ town ON vol. u. p. 3>8. hinory, 319- govemmenr, 3/3-3*9- ceremony of adminillering the oaihs to the Bunds-prcf^dent 31 j. "fhopric; 313 right* of the bifhops, i%^-i^6. caihedrul, 3»S. 3»<5- CtldeBalme^ rnoanuia. vol. i. p. 35^- c'%-C'^^^"^'b!ieron^ pr'oteftaDt Grifon clergy, vol. ii. p. 371. Cclcmhitr. town, vol. i. p. 455- _,., , 1 : « ««j C>/V-^ *n extraordinary inacceffible, on mount Pilate, vol. i. p. «4» reminds Philip de, h's account of the cfTcas of the defeat of Charle. the BoTd'upon \uz mind, vol. i. p. 503. hi. account ot the war between that prince and the Swils, 504. . ^ ^ • ^. C^mt. town of, vol. ii. p. 161. Ukc of, 163—166. ^ . , ^ .k. C::/&. Holveuc, 'vol. i. p. MS-"', " /-/«• J^VUS! "•amons cimpofi.g .t, and the quo^a of troops to be furn.lhcd b> each, 6Ww! of Vhc three Grifon leagues, vol. ii. p. 35»—35<^-. c7nHlncl imer.or UKe of, vol. i. p 13. bilhop of, 15, 16. City of, 14, IS- £y: T5! chamber oV cfiunc;!, .5, 16. improvcmeaU made by the Genevans il>'d. fupenor Uke of, i8. rJyf^V a village in the Pays de Vaud, vol. i. p. 433/ 0;;i. 'crows, diflferent fpecies in Switierland, vol. n. p. 64. C0te ia a moumain near Mont Blanc, v-l. i. p. 384. Ce/rI»jiianufaaory. Set Appen^d Bajle.^c CcMiovoaux. feat of Count Dieftach, vol. 1. p. 495- cJrteUriy refidence of the Bilhops of BaOe, vol. i. p. 171. 2;'.rX Monlieur, bis attempt to reach the fumm.t ol Mont Bl«ic, vol. ci'J, M^r'ief i'guide, hi. various eipediUons to Mont Blanc, vol. i. p. C^llncCi^ e\^Vaofdinary rock, expedition to the, vol. i. p. 371-379. r ..f « village in the valley of Travers, vol. 1 p. 48x. . Cr«^«ri"n«piKVs fixed to\he (hoes to facilitate the palTage of the ice. vol. i. p 3^7. 374. CrafTu a village, vol. i p. 4»3« , . Cr0)'biioy fii51 ««» ^^ •" Switierland, vol. 1. p. 440> a4l« C»///, a town, vol. i. p. 433' D. Daci«, village, vol. Ii. p. 171. 4*o« DaL, liver, vol. i. p. 326. 331. Pmnelff fource of the, vol. i. p- 3. . Daub n See^ a Uke upon nnouni Gerrmi, vol. 1. p. yKAt 3*5' Davtiy diftritl, vol. ii p. 337. goven ment, 3^8. Dt'ebt*^ town, vol. ii. p. 179. Delmonty va!Uy a: d town, vol. I. p. 161, 163. X)f;i/, valley, vol. i. p 405. L« DfMt di'jamant^ vol. L p. 440* jy^^ff Dtof, vol. ii p ^99, 30.1. high jurifdi^^ion of, 3^0. abbey of, 361. village, 261,162. Dixainiy topical divifions of the Valjais, vol. i. p. 331, 332. Dotnafio^ town of, vol. ii. p. 304, DiiHi d'Ofceilo^ town, plundered by the Swifs, vol. ii. p. 422. Dsnatr village, vol. ii. p. 304. DiHefchimt^euy vol. i. p. 1 — 3. DipUr^ Jeion, companion of Mi. Preygrabend in his expedition to the fummit of mount Tiilis, vol. i. p. a6o. Diff bacby a cataract, vol. i. p. 304. Dout river, vol. i. p. 480. Draba^ Pyrtnaica^ a plant, vol. \, p 2p. Ptanjc^ liver in the ValUis, vol. 1. p. 340, 341. Drattura, magnas^ dilliict in the coQiUry of the Grifons. lotrod. Dreyfpii:^y mountain, vol. ii. p. 70. Drezy Jacquet, an ingenious mechanic, vol. i. p. 465. Drujmt^ catnp of. vol. ii. p. 155, 1^6. E. Ehenjluhy mountain, vol. ii. p. 73. *. EcbaUnty bailliage, vol. i. p. 451. ff^r-^orff, mountain, vol. i. p. 313. exterior and interior. 313, 314, Eg(ri^ a dilfrid^ in canton Zuij, vol. i. p. 210. Einfidlitty or Notrt Dame des Heremites^ abbey of, vol. i. p. 47— < 1. Eltzab.tbf empreffi, founds the convent of Konigsfeldeo, vol. i. p. hq— E/oi/fy la nouvelle of RoulTcau, vol. i. p. 437, 438. Emhty village, vol. ii. p. 3 » 3. 315. ^ Emeraldy curious, vol. i. p. 14. Emmfy river, vol. i, p, 230, 231. Emmtbal, valley, vol. i. p. 216, et feq. vol. ii. p. 89. EngadiHCy Uppbr, vol ij. p. 191, et feq. lonllitution, 104—198. defcrip. tion of the valley and its inhabita* t?, aoj — 204 Lower, 204, etjeq, reformation brought about by a lingular circumllance, 207 — 209. coo- ftitution and count! y, 113. inhabiiants, 215. Emgelbergy abbey of, vol. i. p. 2,56. mountain of, ibid. 257. government of the abbey and adjacent country, 158. revenues of the abbut, 259. journey from thence to Alttiorf, 26^—266. Enkebergy mountain, vol. i. p. 264, 165. Entlcy liver in Enthbucb, vol. i. p. 228. ' Entltbuchy valley of, vol. i. p. 226. its extent, 227. government, 227, 228. defcription, ibtd. inhabitants, tbid. 229, ptculiar culloms, aig— 230. Erafmuiy buried at Bafle, vol. i. p. 130. his charafter, 130—132. D*Erlacby Mr. advoyer of Berne, vol. i. p. 531. VEcbauty glacier dc, vol. i. p. 377. E/cbltJmsty a village in Eutlibuch, vol. i. p. 227, 228. ' EugeniuSy .' l;i N X, N X. p. 154* Engeiitit, tbe fourth, Pope, depofed, vol. i. p. 4*9- ExcbaqueU Mr. vol. i. p. 37®» raefch, Monfieor, hii coUeQlon of piaures, vol. i. p. \l€. FatJo. tovn of, ^ol. ii. p. 4*^- ., i^ai7, » torrent foimerly, now dry, vol. ii. p. IW. Falun, river, vol. i. p. 45»- i :: « «. js-flr^/, Willitm, * Genevan reformer, vol. lu p. 94- Fatzfrol, village, vol. ii. p. 33^- Faucigny, duchy of, vol. i. p. JS©- Faulhhtum, mouniam, vol. i. p. a6i. .^^^ /•«.««/^ Helvetica, vol. n. p. 449^ '7 '^ .^jT: ^,1, Fehx the Fifth, the Antipope. See Ammdeut the Eighth. /-«<&, rocks of the, vol. i. p. 173. mouutain, 177. K/JncreiSi'of'population in the valley of, vol. i. p. 4«i. Flims, town, vol. 1. p. 3S7' FU:'s:'^^ow't vol' t' p.149. church d«licated to him, /W, hi. h?fto Y aco^*5i. bring, about the treaty of Mantx, 151. fuperttitio.» account of his having lived without fuftenance, 1S3. FUelhn a place on the lake of Uri, vol. i. p. 440. ., Mir:Jhrn, mountain, vol. i. p. ^9^■^96.^o\, u. p. 75- F'ntsnamcrlnl a fmall ftream in Upper Engadina, vol. u. p. V. Foreft, the black, vol. i. p. »• .. ceived from h«m, 177* }1^' Fraucnfield, diet of, vol. i. p. 33, 34- »Q$» Fredclf$y torrent, vol. ii. p- »3»' Frefbert, mountt'ms, vol. 1. p. 4<» 4*; . Mn«nt TJtlis vol 1 Freygrabend, Mr. his expedu.on to the fummit of Mount Titlis, vol. I. Fril^r^V^n of, vol. i. p. 511. Wftory, ibid, fitu.tioo, Sn-y^' hu\\lL<^il inhabitants, /*/-/. blfhop of, 5.7. populat.on of the town and can^nV/^^ Government .. exifting in ,776, 5«7-SM. mfur- reaion of the .nhabitant. of Gruyer,, 515-535- -nqu.ry into he grtlvances comolained of by the infurgents, 535-538. new troubles, f,8-54i final pacification, S 41. regulations m coniequcnce thereof, cli— C4c;. produce of the canton, 54X--545- .^ , , . irr.?Jm;ll lieutenant, attacks the befieger. of Friburgh, vol. .. p. 53U Frwi>« town and valley of, vol.i. p. 313^ 3*4- «v- ^r &, for' of, vol. ii. p. ;68. Count de, M account of the eredton of the fort, ttid. (ituation and defcription, tbid. ■ ZiX ^l^'^, vori; p. »«o-a83. ,l.cl» of .h., a83. a,.. fsTZ^Z of Uri', tffi' U !« Plioning the revolution, «hich cft.blHhed the Helvetic Confederacy, vol. 1. p. 141' fiirfttnbtri, prince of, vol. i. p. 3. G. Galritl^ G. Cabrief, Stephen, tranflator of the liturgy of Zuric into Romanfb, toI. ii. p. 373— 411.^ Oal/ebergy mountain, part of the Furca. vol. i. p. ipt. Calleny St. vol. i. p. 14. abbot and town of, 22. hidory and governmenty ibid, library, 23. Gallicitts, See Salutn, Gamfcbigletfchery vol. ii p. 74. Canieri/hj a mountain, vol. ii. p. 69, GarvilUy Mr. vol. i, p. 495. Gfmmiy mountain, vol. i. p. 324.— pafTage over, 314—317. vol. ii. p, ^74, 75; Geneva, journey to, vol. |. p. 420^423. lake of, 441. fituatioo of the town, vol. ii. p. 93. population, 93. reforniation in religion, 94 — jy learning and education of the inhabitants, 98, 99 public library, 99. account oMearned Genevans, 100 — 105 biftory down to 1766, 106— no. conflitution and govetnment, no— 115. revenue, ibid. Penal laws, ibid, code of civil law, ibuf. public granary, fortifications, and defence, 116. hiftory of the revolution in 1782, and difcuflion of ita caufes, ii8'r-i44. changes efFe£ted in the conflitution, 144—147. Genevan etlablifhment in Ireland, caufts of its failure, vol. ii. p. 148-^ 151. G'^genbach, an imperi.1l town, vol. i. p. l. Gertjau, town and republic of, vol. i. p. 235, 13(5. Gertrude, Aon, •f Hohenburg, wife of emperor Rhodolph the Firft, buried at Bafle, vol. i. p. 129. ilrange midake regarding her name, ibid. Gefellfchaften, or companies, vol. i. p. 1 10, note. Gefner, John, vol.i. p. 77. his cabinet of natural curiofitiee, ibid, bota* nical works, 78, 79. Gefner, Solomon, character and account of him, vol. i. p. 72, 73. GUcieriy conje£lures 00 the formation and Hate of, vol. i. p. 390-> 401. Glarus^ canton of, vol. i. p. 37 — 41 hiftory, iHd. religion, 39, 40. go, vernmect, 40—5$. trade, 40. vallies in the canton, 41—44 houlea 41;. police, 46. receives fubfidies from France, 2oz» Gleicherbergy mountain, vol i. p, 283. GiacomOy St. valley of, vol. ii. p. 291, GiornicOy victory of, vol. ii. p. 421. Girtanner, Dr his account of the bouquetin, vol. i. p. 401. Gitet^ padures near the foot of the Alps, vol. i. p 547. God's-houfe, league of, hiftory and conftitution, vol. ii. p. 317. uniom with the two other Crifon leagut=s, 349. Goiters, excrefcences of the throat, common In the Vallaia, &c. vol. i. p. 333» 337- caufes of the di;brder, 346 — 353. * Gems, one of the dixains in the Vallais, vol. i. p. 331. Ottbard, St. valley of, vol. i. p. 272. mountain, its height, 27 <. ac- count of its extent by Friar Francis, 277. weather oa the mountain, 17 b. Graffen^ III N D X. Graffen^ort, a villa of the abbot of Engelherg, vol. i. p. 1 5 5. Granite^ of the Swil's mountains, vol. ii- p. 6^—78- ^. , . _ , . Cranfony town of, vol. i. p. 455- »«*^en by affault by Charle. the Bold, 501. Gretffen, lake of, vol. i. p. 94- v'lUge, 94, 95- OrenSy a place near Morat, vol. i. p. 495- Grey, Lady Jane, her letters to Bellinger, vol. u p. 80. Crtlheafut territory of the, vol. ii. p. a98. etymology of the tppellt- tion, thU. hiJlory and governments, 199, 300. union with the two other Grifon leagues, 349- CrimJUivalJ, village, vol. i.p.3J»' 3»3- gl»ciers, 313, 3«4. 397- Cri>/r»*«.i, * rivulet, vol. i. p. 157. . . .1, «o Grrmfel, mountain, vol. i. p. t88. inn upon the road over the, 289, 490. its fummit, 294. Grtjom^y See Leagues. Grofihtrn^ mountain, vol. i. p 3«8. Coteron, valley ^nd rivulet, vol. i. p. 5'5'. . « . «•. r • • Cruhenman, Ulric, builds the famous bridge at Schaffhanfen vol. ,. p. 8 born at Tuffcn, ay. his nephew, 18. builds the bridge Wettingen, in. other bridges built by the Grubenmans, vol. 11. p. 315. Grun,ngfn, a a fma II burgh, vol. i. p. 91. 9»- Jtt"fdi6lion, ibid. Cruner, his theoiy of glaciers, vol. 1. p. 391. Grutiy village, vol. i. p. 138. Gruftb. viliaee, vol. ii. p. 343* „ , . j l Cruyeres, infurreaion of, vol. i. p. i%6, excellent cheefc made there, CugUdm^%i. the Norman, church of, vol. ii. p. 191* »93- Guier, the hiftorUn, account of him. vol. 11 p. 339— 34i- Cuidet, Francis, his expedition to Mont Blanc, voj. i. p. 381, 383. GurttMy village, vol, ii. p. 67, 68. H. KaUenflfin, village and cattle, vol. ii. p. 318-333-. ^^^^n^ ^^J*^' SSr refides ac La R che, vol. i. p. 44*. biographical and literary ancc- dotes ot him, 10 — ^6. r .^ ««♦- HapfburgK cartU of, vo!. 1. p. 115. h.ftory of, 1 19, note. John de, vul. i. p. 1 19— iia. . Rhcdolphde. See /?W«//>A. Hojltland, a diftria in canton Berne, vol. 1. p. 303. inhabitants, tbid, Henz^nberg, mountain, vol ii. p. 310. Htrgstty the geoeaiogilt, vol. i. p. ia9, 1 30' Hertjau, a village in Apptnzel, vol. 1. p. »6. Htrmany Abbe, vol. i. p 1 8z. Hetlinger^ Mr. his colkaion of medals, vol. i. p. 137. Heyde^ger^ Mr. de, his library, vol. i. p. 82, 83. IhnAe'lhanky villa, e, vol ii p. 81. ■ tkchgerickt. Ste Drattura. Hohaipy vein8%f lead difcovered there, vol. u. p. 71. if*rar, village, vol. li. p. 218. . . ... Uilhein, the painter, vol. i. p. 133. tccount of his paintings and drawioga at Baile, 133-13^- ^^^.,,;^ N D X. Kopltaly a village in the valley of Urferen, vol, i. p. 271. Hottinger^ Henry, colledls the library of Zuric, vol. i. p. 81. Houjesy their conitruAion in the mountainous part of Switzerland, vol. i. p lo6, 307. Houjlty mountain, vol, 1. p. 304, Hemardy Mr. the efFeft of his vifit to the houfe of corre^ion at Berne, vol, 2. p 6. Huber^ endeavours to reach the cololTus of mount Pilate, and is dafhed to pieces, vol. i p. 224, 225. Hufsy John, fufferings of, v 1. i. p 15 — 17. Hutten^ his life and character, vol. i. p. 90, 91. I and J. Jamety St. hofpital of, vol. 1. p. 147. battle fought there, /&/l. ii. p. Zi8. ^ Lambat, James, his expedition to Mont Blanc, vol. 1. p. 3«3. Landjgemetndy of Glarofi, vol. i. p. 40- Langtmau^ village, vol. ii. p. 84. 89 Langhauiy Madame, her tomb, vol. ii. p. 81—83. Lanquarty river, vol. ii p. 341* Larcb trtfy iu great utility, vol. i. p. 444. Latrtyemjirfty mountain, vol. ii. p. 70. Lnubergrat^ mountain, vol i. p. z»5- Laujanne, vol. i. p 4x6. population, Hid. fiiuation, 4»6, 4*7- «cademf of Idenccf, 418. church oF, ibid. Lauttraarhorny mountain, vol. i. p 19^. vol. 11. p. 70. tautcrbrunnetiy valley of, journey thither, vol. 1. p. 316. atuatiofl, 317. village, ibid, glacier, 318—311. vol. ii. p. 74. Lautrecy a French general, vol. i.p. 335. . Lanuittry J. Cafper, vol. i. p. 74—75- his character and works, tbtd, La-oeno^ burtj;h, vol. ii. p. A'iP* Lave%3ii, ftone pots made near Chiavenna, vol. n. 175. . l-a^^ Learuesy the three Grilon, their union, vol. ii. p. 349- 't»«"^ *»'"°'7; 350. general idea of their courts of jaftice, religion, revenues, and population, 365—377. commerce, 376—383. foreign »ll>»n«s, 384-? language, 393. their fubdivifions, Introduaion. Leccoy a branch of the lake of Como, vol ii. p. 166. Leiftngeny village, vol. i. p. 3*3. Lengeubergy a mountain, vol. ii. p. 6. 70. L€nx,burgb, Bernhard de, biftiop of Friburgh, vol; i. p. SI?; . , Lfopcid, duke of Auftria, invades Lucerne, vol. 1. p. 113- »« »*'° "* '°* battle of Sempach, 114. teroy lower, vtlley of, vol. ii. p. 341. Ltugelbmcb^ village, vol. i. p. 41. Leuky baths of, vol. i. p 326—318. town, 330— 33*; Levade, Mr. Roman amiquities in bis poffeffion, vol. 1. p. 431. LevaHlinty valley, vol. ii. p. 419 — 41»' Lichen Ranf^iferinu*, vol. i. p. 197. Rupalris, vcl. i. p. 388. lulphurcu?, tbtd, itenjitin ■;»l N E X. Vtthtenfteln^ caftle near Haldenftein, vol. ii. p. 330. Liepitv^ a kind of honey extracted by the Poles from the Lime>tree. Se« Lime. Ligarity Pietro, the painter, anecdotes of him, vol. ii. p. p. 175^ LigertKy Baron de, canon of Arle(he*m, vol. i p. 161. Litne-treey a large, near Morges, vol. i. p. 41$. accountof feveral othera^ 415, 416. Limmaty river, vol. i. p. 36. navigation dangeroac> iiz, 113. Li»th^ river, vol. i p. 36. 41—43. Lira^ torrent, vol. ii. 191—197, a98. LivinOy village, vol. ii. p. 416. Locarnoy lake, vol. ii p. 41$. town, ibid, bailliage, ibid, Ltcendrty glacier of, vol. i. p. 173. lake of, 174. LocUy a village, vol. i. p. 463. induftry and population, 463—465. Lucy Mr. de, his improvement of the methods of afcertaining the heights of mountains, vol. i. p. 360* 361. account of him, bis works, and hit cabinet, vol. ii. 804, 10$. , lucerney lake of, vol. i. p. in— 134. hiftory of the canton, aii — 115, government) 114— 116. residence of the pope's nuncio, 116. annual diet of the Catholic cantons, ibid. Hate of learning, tbid. population and produce of the canton, 117. defcription of the town, ibid, LucenSy cadle, vol. ii. p. 91. Lucius y St. convent of, at Coire, vol. ii. p. 3)^6. Lndlowy Edmund, his refidence at Vevay, vol. i. p. 434. his charadter^ 434—43^- LuganOy town, vol. ii. p. 417. lake, 4z8« LugnetZy valley of, vol. ii p. 301. Lutfcbincy Weifs and Schwartz, two rivers in the valley of LauterbruiW nen, vol i.p. 319, 310. Lungixy mountain, vol. ii. p. 18$. Lungnet%y mountain) vol. i. p. 183. Lutry^ a town in Pays de Vaud, vol. i. p. 433. LuvinOy valley of, vol. ii. p. lag. Luviniy the painter, vol. ii. p. 418. M. Msbljy Abbe de, his error in regard to the Helvetic confederacy, vol. u p. 107, note. Macba/eby cherry, vol. i. p. 443. Maduleiny village, vol. ii. p 191. Magmdinty town of, vol. ii. p. 427. Maggia^ a torrent, vol. ii. p. 417. Maglandy a waterfall, vol i. p. 422. Mairmy torrent) vol. ii. 171 — 185, MalantZy town of, vol. ii 344. Malaricy bad air on the borders of lake Como, vol. ii. p. 167* MalencOy torrent, vol. p. 174. valley, p. 186. Maliny glacier, vol. ii. p. 185. MaliXy village, vol. ii. 336. Mallety Paul Henry, of Geneva, vol. ii. p. 103, MalUriia> mouotaiii. vot ii. p. i8<. Ilii m fllf I N D X. N D X. Mah^ town, vol i. p. li8. ^ Malters^ a village, vol. i. p. 131. MarignanOy battle of, vol. i p. 334- Marky St. mountain of, road propofcd to be mtde over it, vol. ii, P i^^' Marmcty an animal, vol. i. p. 189. defcription and natural hiftory, vol, ii. p. 179 — 183. Marttgny^ a village in the Vallais, vol. i. p. 339, 340. See 0— 80. Noiragucy a village, vol. i. 482. NolUty torrent, vol. ii. p. 306. Nolleuj the fummit of Mount Titlis, vol. i. p. 261. Ntrmany kings of Sicily, their hiftory, vol. ii. p. 293. genealogy, 295. Nyotif a town in Pays de Vaud, vol. 1. p 424. O. Ohergeftlen., village,^ vol. i. p. 285. Oberriedy village, vol. i. p. 31. Obervoaldy a village upon the Furca, vol. i. p. 285. Obertua/deny a divifion of the canton Untervfaldeny vol. i. p. 249. O^tdnrum* f\ '^ 1 ' t* X. Oatiurnm, S«e Martigny. , Ctf(b**tn^at, heighw of, vol. ii. p. 73. Offenburg^ an imperiil town, vol. i. p. 1. olteny a town in Soleure, vol i. p. 185. Orhty river, vol. i. p. 448, town 449— 45 »• Crlenfa, torrent, vol. ii. p. i8<. t .. -^ » »«.. Ojiertald, Mr. hi. account of the introdaaiofl of #atchro»kiDg ill Loeltt and La Chaux de Fond, vol. i. p. 4^5* OJfogua^ a village, vol. ii. p. 4**- Ofwaldy St. tutelary faint of Zug, vol. 1. p. «li; P. Tatcard, Michael, a guide of Chtmoony, voU. 371— S^J. , . . -_ Dr. his expedition to the fammit of Mont BItnCt tOI. 1. p. 383—386. PalauiM, burgh, vol. ii. p. 431. tantinbruck^ a bridge in 0*aru8, vol. 1. p. 43» 44* Pays de Faud, enchanting fcenes in the, vol- i. 414» 4»$» wreKcd from Savoy by the canton Berne, 4*5 g«n«r** account of the country from page 4x0—446. fubjea to Berne, vol. ii. 3. f ay erne y town of, vol. ii. p. 91. Fedintfoy valley of, vol. ii. p. itg. . , ,. . •„. ^ „^i •• ^ Fenna*t, David, Efq. his letter upon the Itilin btilliages, vol. 11. p. A18 ftretti^ Bartholomew, of Bcrbcno, faves the Proleftant* of that pUc« from the general madacre, vol. ii. p. 249. Ferimi^ Mr. vol. ii. p. 196. Feter. St. valley of. in the Grifons, vol. 11. p. 301. t'j^%^ Feter St. itland o^, vol. i. p. 487. Rouffeao retires thither, iW. tft« author's cxcurfion to the iCand, ibid, defcription, 488. Sec Rouffeam, FetiHOy mountain, vol. i p. *74» "^TS* Pffffrs^ village, vol. ii. p. 3 4$- baths, 345"-"348« Pfemhny lake of, vol. i. p 91- ^ r ^ • 1 j 1 • - fjiff,r, general, hit curious model of part of Switzerland, vol. 1. ^ zi8 — ^^l• Fbelades^ a fpecies of petrefaaion, vol. u. p. 10' Fhifics^ Ibciety for the cultivation of, at Zuric, vol. i. p. 78, 79. Ftantedit^ dillria, vol ii. p. 168. . Pierre Fertuit, a celebrated pafe, vol. 1. p. 170. Roman infcnptioa theie, 171. r • », .• 1 •• ao Pietijiiy a religions feft, their progrefs in Engadina, vol. 11. p. 190. Pilate., Mount, near Lucerne, vol. i. p. ill— 114— »34. Pi£e Facbe^ t caiaraft in the Vallais, voL i. p. 340, 34 »• Piur§. See Phrt. Pixoni, the architea, vol. i. p. 181. • v . t^ r i- ♦ «.* PLnta, family of, vol. ii p. 194- their difputes with the Dcfalii s, 214. Flimiana, vilUge, vol. ii. 164. curious fpring there, 164, 165. Fltny, the younger, vol. ii. p. 161. See C»iw#. /•/■r/, dclVroyed by the fall of Mount Conto, vol. 11. p. iji, I74« Fodejla^ t Crilon raagiftrate, vol. ii. p. 178-^2^, et poJJiM. FsUgto, a village, vol. ii. p. 4»i. ^^.^^ N D X. Feinty a village, vol. i. p. 448. Fenta alta^ a bridge in Engadina, vol. ii. p. 104. FoHtarliery a town in Burgundy, vol. i. 480. FoHtOy a village, vol. ii. p. 192. Forentruy principality of, the refidence of the bifhops of Bade, vol. i. p. 138 — 156 government, 158. population, ibid, city, 159. FortOy village, vol. ii. p. 429. Pregalia^ valley o., vol. ii. p. 176. government, 177, 178. Fremagliay valley of, vol. ii. p 2*4. FretigaUy valley of, vol. ii. p. 343. FrotncHtognOy village, vol. ii. p. 184. Profoy village, vol. i. p. p. 177. Fro'vtftonsy iheir price in the mountainous parts of Switzerland, vol. f, p. 304—306. Fury., Mr. David, beautifies the town of Neuchatel, vol i. p. 459. his hidory and fplendid donations to his native country, 460. remarks on their application, 460, 461. R. RaUingeiiy a place near the lake of Thuni vol. ii. p. 59. RamOy torrent, vol. ii. p. %%i. Ranunculus glaciaiist a plant, vol i. p, 373. Ranfty hern itage of St. Nicholas de Flue, vol. i. p. agi. Rapper fcb'wyly bridge of, vol i. p. 51. town, 51, 54. hiftory and govern- ment, /^/J. convent at, 53.91. Rareuy one of thedixains ot the Vallais, vol. i. p. 331. Realpy a village in the valley of Urieien, vol. i. p. Z71. 2.81 . Regenjbergy old an'i new, vol. i. p. 96. hiftory, i^/J. fituation, 96, 97, Retckenauy ifland of, vol. i. p 13. - town and valley, vol. ii. p. 313—315. Reichenbachy a river fuppofed to convey gold dufl into the bed of the Aar, vol. L p. 191. fall 01 the, 308, 309. fource, i^/V. RemuSy village, vol. ii. p. %\i. caftle, ibid. Renz det ^acheSy a favourite air of the Swifs, its effieas, vol. i. p. 2^5. RetzuMSy barons uf, vol. ii. p. 229—301. village, 310. revenues, 314. csiiilCy ibid, barony, 311— 313. Reu/sy river, vol. i. p, 115. a 18. 268,259. ^72. its fourcc, 274, 275, • a river in Neuchatel, vo!. i. p. 481. Rbaetioy ancient^'hiftory of that country, vol. ii. p. 311. Rhaetzuni. See Retzuns. Rheinfeldeny rapidity of the Rhine there, vol. i, p. izg. Rheintbat. See Rhine. Rbetnivaldy valley of, vol. ii. p. 302. Rbincy rive.', fall, at LaufFen, vol i. p. 9— 12. forms the Zeller See, 13. valley of the Rhine or Rheinthal, 31. fuurce of, 275. principal fources, vol li. p. 1163. ■ii ■ Hynder., \u fource, vol. ii. p. 302. - - LitiUy its fource, vol. ii. p. 190. Rbodolpby t^ount of Haplburgh, vol. i. p. ii5. flcetch of his atchievements, iiia. remarks upon his charaaer and farue, 117, 118. a wooden Aatue of him at Bafle, 137. Rbeney fource of the, vol i. p. 274. 284. 292, 293. 330. 344. Ricbardy Daniel John, intioduces watchmaking in Locle, vol. i. p. 45^ ^-* " ^-^ Ricblif'uiti, t i' Vot. II. Oo 7.1 N X. N D X. Rfcblifufick, a town near Zuric, vol. i. p. 88, 89. i?»>^ moontain in Lucerne, vol. i. p. 113, ^^4' Rihimer, major, luccours Friburgh, vol- i. p. §3»» '^f'^- Ripatlle^ a palace of Amadeus the Eighth, vol. 1. p. 4»97 ''7'f- Rivoy Marquis de, his palace at Lugano, vol. ii. p. 4*8. —^ village, vol. ii. p. 171. RobuftclK his conlpiiacy, vol. ii. p. x\6. Rochat, a name common to mott of the inhabiiants of the valley of Joux, vol i. p 448, 449* .,,.,,. Roche^ la, the refideoce of Haller, vol i. p. 44*. la, a village on the river Bira, vol. i. p. 168. Roman and Mtilly, Genevans fettled at Conftance, vol. i. p. I5. Romanjb, language, vol. ii. p. 302. 395i ''/<'?• Rencaiia, village, vol ii. p. )o6. Rojbachy a Inrall burgh, vol. i. p. 1*. Rupicapra. See Chamois. Rofengarten, See ScUure. Rojtntaver^ glacier, vol.i. p. 3II. 1 • ,. R-fcr, Hen.y, takes P. N. Cbenaux prtfoner, vol. 1. p. 533. Rji/r^au, Jt«n Jacques, his refidence at Moitier Travers, vol. i. p. 482. hi. m^di of living there, 483, 484 obftinacy, 484. extreme fenf.b.l.ty, 485. Moitier Travers, 48^, 486. retires to St. Peter s jOe, M. bu mode of living there, 489— 49* .^ ^ r 1 •• *.- *^m H. Rnfca, Nicolas, at Sondrio, killed by the Gnfons, vol. 11. p. MS- See ffi- ftory of the ralteline. Account of hiro, 306, ct Jeq, Ruti, waterfall at the village of, vol. i. p.4a- Ruzj valley of, vol. i. p. 463. Sahncif, town of, vol. i. p. 4*1; 41*. SaUiz, a village, vol i. p 3°- J^'^'-n^X ^'''"' ^^*°*'^' 3»- ^a/V-u^t mountain, vol. ii. P«93* _ , _, . , . .. „ -,. Sain, de, family, their ditputes with the Plaota's, vol. ... p. 114. _ Count de, his villa in Pregalia, vol. 11. p. 176. Rhodolph de, baron of Haldenftein, vol 11. p. 3*8. ZZ Mr of MarfihLns, inftitutes a feminary of literature among the Grifons, vol. ii. p. 33 »• Sjlla, mountain, vol.i p. 177- , Salmons, found in the Lin h, vol. 1. p. 43- SaUurlnfc ccfirnm, ancient name of Solcure, vol. .. p. 180. S^luth a fi(h. See Silurus glantc. ?j:/.: Philip, an eaJy reformer among the GrUon., vol. u. p. 408. Saltz,^n, Leudigar, abbot of Engelberg, vol.i. p. 4s8. Samoda, * village, vol. i up, ipz, _ S.indbacb, a waterfall in GlaruR, vol. 1. p. 44. Sane, river, vol. i. p. 514- 5 S?* San facramente, village, vol. 11. p. 430. Santa croce, valley of, vol. n. p. 176. ^ Maria, villaee, vol.ii. p. 118. m /i -- Tl^iH^tX: villain P»ys d. V.ud. vol. i. p. 43J. Ro™«n ■»■"•"<■« there, ibtd. note. Sargans, county of, vol. 11 p. 345' t village, vol. i. p 3*' Sarnet Same, the capital of Oberwalden, vol. i. p. 249. lake of, ibid. Saizbergy mountain, vol. i. p. 183. cold and warm fprings there, apj. Saujfurc^ Mr. de, his opinion of goiters, vol. i. p. 3^0. his expedition to Mont Blanc, 383. alcends 10 the fummit, 384. account of him and his works, 102, 103. his cabinet, 103. Savarenchc, valley of, vol. i. p. 404. Savenne, mountain, vol. ii. p. 175. Sax^ counts of, vol. ii. p. 199. 301. SaxelfHy a town in Underwalden, vol. i. p. 149. Saxo GrammaticuSf extract from, vol. i. p. 553. Scampf, a burgh, vol. ii. p. 196. Schadan, caflle of, vol. ii. p. So. Schaffhavjen, vol. i. p. 4. defcription of, 5. hiftory, ibid, government, ibid, revenues, ibid, trade, 6, defence, ibid' bridge ot, 5, 7. Schakeren, valley oK, vol. i, p. 265. Scbamsy valley of, vol. ii. p. 303. Scbargenbachy torrent, vol.ii. p 417. Scbarloy valley, vol. ii. p. an. Scheidec, mountain, vol. i. p. 304. 308. Scheidec, 308, et feq. fummit of the, 313. vol. ii. p. 77. , Scbiert, village, vol. ii, p. 341. Scbiltbcrn, mountain, vol. ii. p. 70. Schinner, Cardinal Matthew, biOiop of Sion, vol. i. p. 333. his hiftory. 3.34, 335. Schtntznachy baths of, vol. i. p. 115. Scbnabelhem, mountain, vol. ii. p. 70. SchoelUnen, valley, vol.i. p. 167— Z70. Scbreckborn, mountain, vol. i. p. 29^ 312. vol. ii. p. 75. Scbuepfen, a village, vol, i. p. 227, 228 Scbuppab, Michael, the phyfician, vol. ii. p. 84. account of his fame, flcill, and fuccefs, 84—89. Scbtoartzberg, mountain, vol. ii. p. 70. Scbivartzenburgby chain of mountains running from thence to Vevay and Aigle, vol. i. p. 547. Scbioartztoald, glacier, vol. i. p. 311. Scbweighaufer, John George, his epitaph, vol. i. p. 143, note. Scbiaeitzy canton, entrance of the, vol. i p. 212. lake of, 234. town, 236. hiftory of the canton, 241, et feq. government, 244. population, 245. foil and manners of the inhabitants, ibid, intolerance in religion, 245. ScbioeitzerbaieHy two (ingular rocks, vol, i. p. a3(J. Scb'wettzerlandy or Swiflerland, origin of the name, vol. i. p. 243. its independence finally acknowledged, 244. Siuoly a village, vol. ii. p. zio. Seckinguen, convent of, vol. i. p. 37. Seelifberg^ mountain, vol. i. p. 238, Sefinen alps, vol.ii. p. 70. Seduni. See Sion- Sella, la, lake of, vol. i. p. 274. Seha Ftana, lake of, vol. ii. p. i8d. town, ibid. Selva, a village, vol. ii. p. 363. Sempacb, treaty of, vol. i. p. \o6 battle of, 213, remarkable inftance of ▼alour (hewn there, ibtd. lake of Sempach, 231. anniveriary of the battle, 232. Senairey mode of ele^ion at Bafle, vol. i. p 141. Oo% Senncbier^ '■4 n N X. N E X. t^ Stnnehier, Mr. of Cenetra, vol. i. p. 387- .^o*- " P- '0°» ^t paftm. Sernft^ quarry of, vol. i. p. 4'- »'«ver, ibtd. Serra^ I ., a pafb, vol ii. p. %^6. Serriere, U, r vcr, vol. i. p 45^* , - r u »•« ♦Un S€r'vaM. -K village in Valkis, inhabited by a people famous for hunlmg the bouquenn, vol, i. p. 41 ; Servetus^ perlecuted by Calvin, vol. i. p. 96. Sefto^ a Village, vol. ii. p. 431. Set^ mcuniain, vol. ii. p. 184. Sev/ilj^ village, vol. ii. p. 330. Subella'viHen^ vol. ii. p. •J^. Siders^ in Vallais, vol. i. p* 33'* . ^ r . 1 • Stgifmond the Simple, his wars wjth the Helvetic Confederacy, 7ol. 1. p. 498, 499« hi* alliance with the repubhct, 501. Siglto^ village, vol. ii. p. 185. lake, iW. Silene Acaulis^ vol. i. p. 388. fiiluris glanis, a large fiili, vo'. i. p. 494- . Sitnler, the Reverend Mr. his library, vol. 1. p. 8i. 5rajeha^ valley of, vol. ii. p. 358. Spadgy torrent, vol. ii. p. 205. ,0 ♦ Sfiftigler, Mr. repairs SchaufFbauren bridge, vol. 1. p. 8, note. Spitxefticky mountain, vol. i. p. ^57. Splugetiy a village, vol. i. p. 191. 30*. — mouniain, 197. paflage over, 198. Spreder, Fortunaius, the hiltorian, vol. ii. p. 34©, 34'. «count of the Bonquetin, vol i. p. 403, 404- . ^ c> r u- j .«i :: Sprungl,, Mr. of Berne, his excellent collea.oD of Sw.f* birds, vol. lu Slaff!IlVtftZ dt] of Schweitz. affifts in planning the revolution which elUblilhed the liberty of Switzerland, vol. 1. p. 24*. StalJe'rJIuty a calcareous ftonei vol ii. p. 72. Stampa^ v"ll gc, voL ii. p. 1H4. ... SianL. the capital of Unte walden, its fituat.on, vol t. p. »?4- con^*"- tionor, 106. .08. a 52. tieatyof, brought about by Nicolas de Hue, 253. S:.iHtzhfrgy mounta n, vol. i. p. 254. Siau^f^acb^ a catara^, vol i. p. 3'7- Suiu^ a Imall indepemlent town, vol. i. p. 13. 5/n their fervice in foreign powers, vol. i. p, 203, et feq. Stoiizerlandy generat reflexions upon its various laws and governmeoty vol. ii. p. 152, et/eq. See Scbiveitzerland. T. Tah/y glacier, vol. i. p. 375 — 377. Ta/efrf, glacier, vol. i. p. 372. 377. Taminay river, vo!. ii. p. 346^, TaminSy town, vol ii p. 357. Tauvf Hy villatrp, vol. ii. p. 218. Tavmtnesy or Dachfeld, a village, vol. i. p. 170. Tavetchy community of, vol it. p. 362. valley of, 363. Teglioy maflacre of the Proteftants there, vol. ii. p. 247. defcription ^f the town and adjacent country, 273, 274. Telli William, his chapel, vol i. p. zia. Z38, 239. doubts concerning the aoihenticity of his hillory, 23 — 140. Ten jurtfdieiionsy league of the, its hiftory, vol, ii. p. 334, 335. union with the two other 'eagues, 3^9 Ternairfy mode of election at Bade, vol i. p. 141. Tetzeroy di Sopra, di Mezza, and di Sotto, governments of the Valte- line, vol. ii. p. 2^7. Tejinoy river, fource of, vol. i. p. 274. vol. ii. p. 419, et feq, Tete Noir^ la, mountain, vol.i. p. 356. TeufeljbrUcky or Devil's Bridge, vol. i. p. 270. Thieley river, vol. i. p. 453^493. Tksmas^ St. lake of, vol. ii. p. 363. Thuity lake of, vol. i. p 323 vol. ii. p. 6^. town of, ibid, road to, 79, fituation and government, 80. Thurgauy vol. i p. 105, et pajjim, Ttfpet grebe, a bird, vol. i p. 442. TiranOy capital of Upper Terzero, vol ii. p. 237, 238. fair held there, 238. mafTacreof the Proteftants, 246. Tijfay, Viflor, a guide, vol. ii. p. 380. Ttfaty the celtbrated phyfician, vol. i. p. 42 R. Titlis^ mountain, vol. i. p. 258 See Mr. Freygrabend. Tomii ijcay valley, vol. ii. p. 306. 310. Tophus. See Tuf. Tsrrenberg^ Count Peter of, opprefles the inhabitants of Entlibuchj vol. i. p. 227. Torrenfy family of, vol. i, p. 443. Tsrturey ftill ufed in Switzerland, vol. ii, p, 157. Tturhillotif N X. N D X. m TaarhiUoM^ « rtxV tt Sion m the Villals, vol i. 337. ^rafpy village and caftle, vol. ii. p. » 1 1. Traversy John de, vol ii. p. 405- *»» hiftory, 405—400. Trtfv/ri, village, vol. i. p. 481. Tre%.ray canal of, toI. ii. p. 379* „ . ^Trumty a torrent io Vallais, vol. i. p. 340. vtUey w, 344* TVi/tf, river, vol. ii. p. 4*9* ^r$vahatby village, vol. p. 3*. Tfgeuy a village in Appeniel, vol. \. p. 16. 7Veily a town near Zoric, vol. i. p 87. its hiftory, 88. popu- lation, /^/ke of, tbtJ. Zefenbergy mountain, vol. ii. p. 7$. Ztllity village, vol. ii. p. 304. Zinkeberg, mountain, vol. 1. p. 49^- Zcffin^en, a town in Berne, vol. 1. p. 131. ^.len'te or tribes, at Bade, vol. i. p. 140. Zuiig':, TJlric, the reformer, his hiftory «.d ch.r.fler, »ol. .. p. 55, 56. killed «t the battle of Cappel, 57. ir-;^fo"of,"oi.''i.'p'»09. hiftoryofcantonZug ao9,aio. govern- ment, r*/J. departure from thence, ziz. lake of, i*/*/. ^«£, a remarkable rock, vol. ii p. 337; . „ S«Wflff a village in the valley of Urieren, vol. i, p. 47«- »»••. f ;r;t l.\e of vol . p. <«. 54 ""^«"» 55- hiftory, tb,J. rel.g.on, iM. ftl?e o' c^^^^^^ population, s«. Po»icy in regard to granting b^ghe^C 58-60" privileges of the^urghe s 60. .government 6,. Uwr,^/i ienate, 6a revenue, 63. cnmmal jur.fprudence, /W. dty of Zu/ic, 64. its Htuation and buildings, M^ manufaftones 65. po'pulatTTn, ; J. manners of the inhabitants, 66 f--P;--yJ^-^; M military force, 67. ecclefuaical government, 69, 70. ^^^'^^^ rlLZ Tbh. charitable eftablilh nents, M. chuurgical femmary, ;, edu«ion ibiJ. learning, sb^J. learned men, 7^-79. phyfi s, '78*. pubhc liblary, 79, 80. private libraries, 8., 8 ^^ env.rons o, Zur.c, P 84, ^//^^ Zuric accedes to the alUtncc With France, io6. Zutzy a' village, vol.ii. p. 1$%" «94. \ '■'i w I 'i> FINIS. I I X i i vt- i [ i m KV.V m m 8 (l / ^ ^3 S w^^x^'^l^ndv COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 0021051941 1. c f m4 C-' I '^'7 \ L. =-^-&^5*-^:*v^w^rA|r _;*=^i^-^--^c*.'-.-j^,:*!jt.- -aa-;^ M i ' u: . ' • li \ i .:■*■•• ...'•rf'. ^Jir^^Tn" m f'!^!!;** .;.'lffl!:-';i .1 th!i,( »f- liS:;: ill: il !i|« .'«::l' ^ ' S;tr ' '3,' .iawIH] vi^^l '>'l'l .'I'l'..' '.'ij • • ' iy.i •.»: ' '•fit '.■'It'll 1 I 'i' ',' '-'i'l « )i'.'"'"i' i'f'i'fl!':' 'Ui% . «!.'f.l,' 1 ' ,1 • 1 -If I'll" ;• •»••[• li, [ ■ -n niiiiMiiii^H wm '^ !:M si •;!]' '-r^ !■ ':• ;■ rn*nTC