vright 1910. by B. L. Clarke Copyright igio By B. L. Clarke, New York Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 All Rights Reserved http://archive.org/details/overgreatwidewayOOclar OVER THE GREAT WIDE WAY (From Washington Arch to Grant's Tomb) HE visitor in New York who wishes to get a glimpse of the city's rep- resentative churches, office buildings, clubs, and pri- vate residences, can do no better than take a trip up Fifth Avenue and River- side Drive. The ground can be covered in one of two ways, either by the commodious Green Sight Seeing Automo- biles, "with the Swastika Sign," which in- cludes both thoroughfares, also Central Park, a total of fourteen miles in about two hours, and has the further advantage of a lecturer to point out the places of interest, or by the Fifth Avenue motor stages, which offer a choice of the two routes, Fifth Avenue to ooth Street, or Fifth Avenue to 57th Street to Riverside Drive. The Green Sightseer, "with the Sign of the Swastika," starts at the south- east corner Broadway and 23rd Street, the Bartholdi Building; the stage at the very be- ginning of Fifth Avenue, at Washington Square. Washington Square, covering some nine acres, was originally the Potter's Field, a successor to the one at Madison Square. 1 2 Following this humble period of its his- tory, it went to the other extreme and be- came the literary and aristocratic centre of Xew York City. Henry James, who once lived in this vicinity, has written a novel entitled ''Washington Square," taking for his background one of the stately mansions that are to-day the only reminder of the square's former prestige. This plot of ground is adorned by a statue of Garibaldi, presented to the city by its Italian resi- dents, and a bust of Alexander Holley, who was prominently connected with the devel- opment of Bessemer steel. The large build- ing east of the square contains certain de- partments of the Xew York University. Washington Arch, the elaborate structure through which a vista of Fifth Avenue is revealed, is after the design of Stanford White and occupies the site of a temporary arch erected at the centennial of Washing- ton's inauguration. Funds for this memor- ial were raised by popular subscription. Proceeding up the avenue, the first point of interest is the Hotel Brevoort, at the northeast corner of 8th Street, an historic landmark, formerly known as the Lafa- yette-Brevoort. On the west side at the corner of ioth Street, is the Protestant Episcopal Church of the Ascension, con- taining La Farge's beautiful painting of the Ascension. On the same side of the avenue at the next stieet is the old First Presbyterian Church, founded in Wall Street nearly 200 years ago. Looking through 15th Street at the west, a fleeting glimpse of the New York Hospital may be obtained, and at 16th Street the Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier. On the east side of the 3 Old First Presbyterian Church 4 avenue at 19th Street are the old estab- lished firms of Arnold, Constable & Co. and Lord & Taylor, both extending through to Broadway. The Methodist Book Concern occupies the southwest corner of 20th Street, and the Presbyterian Building, the northwest corner. Twenty-third Street brings us to Madison Square, to which a certain historic interest attaches, for here in former days the old Post Road began its irregular course north- ward. A wealth of notable buildings are crowded into the precincts of the Square, one of the most striking being the twenty- story Fuller Building, which occupies the wedge-shaped piece of ground at the inter- section of Fifth Avenue and Broadway. Tt is popularly known as the Flat Iron Build- ing, from its peculiar shape. Across the street from this building on the further side of Broadway is the old Bartholdi Hotel. At the southeast corner of the Square the new Metropolitan Life Insurance Building rears its magnificent height of forty-eight stories, claiming the proud distinction of being the tallest build- ing in the world. Its melodious chimes, consisting of four bells, are very similar to the noted Cambridge chimes. At the northeast corner of 24th Street and Madi- son Avenue may be seen Dr. Parkhurst's new Presbyterian Church, and at the next street above, still another building of re- cent date, the Appellate Division, Supreme Court, whose dignified architecture and rich sculptures are deserving unqualified admira- tion. Open daily to visitors. Madison Square Garden, in the next block at 26th Street, is a conspicuous feature of this region with its yellow brick exterior 5 6 and lofty tower surmounted by a gilded Diana. It is a world-renowned palaee of amusement, its spacious walls accommodat- ing- an enormous amphitheatre, concert room, roof garden, and theatre, besides nu- merous offices and studios. Crossing the Square to the Broadway side, four statues of prominent Americans attract our attention — Chester A. Arthur, at the northeast corner of the Square, Roscoe Conkling, on the southeast, William Seward, Secretary of State, at the south- west, and Admiral Farragut, at the north- west. The Farragut memorial, designed by St. Gaudens, is a beautiful piece of work and will repay close study. The Fifth Avenue Building, at 23rd Street, is worthy of note as occupying the site of the old Fifth Avenue Hotel, one of the famous hostelries of old days where the first passenger elevator in the city was in- stalled. The block between 24th and 25th Streets, on Broadway, is taken up by the Albemarle Hotel and Hoffman House. Di- rectly opposite is the large enclosure where rests the body of Major-General Worth, who rendered distinguished service during the Mexican War. A tall monument marks the spot, bearing a bronze tablet in high re- lief. Continuing up Fifth Avenue the next point of interest is the Cafe Martin, on the lower west side of 26th Street and extend- ing through to Broadway. It was Del- monico's in former days. The Brunswick Building, of red brick and granite, diagon- ally opposite, occupies the site of the old Brunswick Hotel. The famous book firm of Brentano's is located here. At 27th Street, on the west side, is the Hotel Victoria, and 7 Flat Iron and Fifth Avenue Buildings Worth Monument across the street on 27th, Xo. 15, is the up- town store of the Dennison Mfg. Co., The Tag Makers and introducers of the famous crepe papers. Their art department is par- ticularly interesting and strangers are cor- dially invited. At the northwest corner of 28th Street the Second National Bank now occupies its new attractive building. In the yard of the Marble Collegiate Church, on the northwest corner of 29th Street, is the bell originally hung in the old North Church on Fulton Street. Some of the historic facts in regard to this church are as follows: First it is the Oldest Church in America; and the records place before us these items of interest: In the year 1609, September 6th, landing of the Dutch and discovery of Manhattan Island by five men from Hendrick Hudson's ship, "The Half Moon"; 1614, the first religious service was held; 1624, first Elder of Reformed Church, Peter Minuit, who was also first Director-General of Colony; 1625, first bell hung in belfry of "The Church in the Horse Mill"; 1628, first Minister in- stalled: Rev. Jonas Michaelius ; 1633, first church building erected, on site now known as 39 Pearl Street; 1642, first stone church within the ramparts, known as "The Church in the Fort." The Rev. David James Burrell. D.D.. LL.D., is the Minister of this church and his connection with it covers a period of twenty years. It was through Dr. Burrell that this church established a permanent Pastor for Strangers, and the Rev. John S. Allen, D.D., is in charge of this unique office and all strangers receive his thoughtful considera- tion. Across the avenue on the upper corner 9 10 of 29th Street is the Calumet Club. A glance through 29th Street to the east re- veals the Church of the Transfiguration, lovingly termed by the theatrical profes- sion, "The Little Church Around the Cor- ner," also the Hotel Martha Washington, which is exclusively for women, and at the southwest corner of Madison Avenue and 29th Street the Hotel Seville. At 30th Street is the Holland House, and on 31st Street, just west of the avenue, the Hotel Wolcott. On the northeast corner of 32d Street may be seen the home of the Knickerbocker Club, one of New York's exclusive organizations, and at 313, just a step south of 32d Street, the old established piano warerooms of Mason & Hamlin Co. At this crossing a glimpse of the new Penn- sylvania Depot may be had at the left. The next block on the west side is taken up by the famous Waldorf-Astoria, com- monly known as the finest and largest hotel in the world. Its builders and owners are William Waldorf Astor and Col. John Jacob Astor. Tt is said to offer accommo- dations for from 1,400 to 1,500 guests. The linen store of James McCutcheon & Co. is directly across from the hotel. The white marble building on the west side of the avenue at the upper corner with its Corinthian columns and elaborate frieze, is occupied by the Knickerbocker Trust Co., famous for its "run" in the panic of 1907. Next to it is Aeolian Hall. Free recitals Wednesdays and Saturdays, 3 p. m., during the season. The plain but rich structure occupying the block between 34th and 35th Streets, on the opposite side of the avenue, are the new quarters of B. Altman & Co., whose Church of the Transfiguration (Exterior) Church of the Transfiguration (Interior) removal uptown with other business houses has changed the shopping centre of New York. James McCreery & Co., just west of Fifth Avenue on 34th Street, is still another firm occupying a new site. Glanc- ing east through 35th Street, on the corner of Madison Avenue, is the Protestant Epis- copal Church of the Incarnation. The Gor- ham Co., world famous silversmiths, are on the southwest corner of 36th Street. Across the street, at No. 389, is located the Astor Trust Co., one c f the best known Trust and Safe Deposit Companies in our city, and at No. 391, the new home of C. G. Gunther's Sons. At 37th Street, the china and glass house of Davis Collamore & Co. occupies the lower corner, No. 404, on the west side, and i he spacious establishment of Tiffany & Co., the lower corner on the east side. The Brick Presbyterian Church, diagon- ally opposite. Avas organized in 1767 in Park Row. One of its former ministers was Dr. Henry Van Dyke, now professor of literature at Princeton. The home of the Union League Club, originally organ- ized to assist the Union cause and now among the most distinguished social or- ganizations in the city, is on the northeast corner of 39th Street. On the west side of the avenue, at 40th Street, is the Knox Building. The New York Public Library, erected on the Astor-Lenox-Tilden foundation and now nearing completion, occupies the two blocks from 40th to 42d Streets. This is the former site of the old Croton Reservoir. Bryant Park is at the back of the library, extending to Sixth Avenue. A glimpse through 42d Street to the east reveals the Manhattan and Belmont Hotels, also the 13 IV aldorf-Astoria Grand Central Station, soon to be replaced by an elegant costly marble structure. At 43d Street is the Temple Emanu-El, one of the largest Jewish synagogues in New York City, and a fine example of Sara- cenic architecture. Just west of the ave- nue, on 43d Street, are the Century Club and the Hotel Renaissance. Sherry's, one of the eity's high grade restaurants, is on the southwest corner of 44th Street, and the Night and Day Bank on the southeast cor- ner. Diagonally across from Sherry's is the equally renowned Delmonico's. It is hard to believe that this aristocratic estab- lishment is an outgrowth of a humble one- room shop. A glimpse of St. Bartholomew's Protest- ant Episcopal Church, on Madison Avenue, may be obtained at 44th Street. This thor- oughfare is a famous club district, and be- tween Fifth and Sixth avenues may be found the Harvard, Yale, St. Nicholas and New York Yacht Clubs, also the world- famed Hotel Astor is located on Broadway, from 44th to 45th Streets. The Hotel Lor- raine is also in this block. L. P. Hollander & Co., a well-known firm which has been doing business in Boston for many years, has recently moved into its new building on the west side of the avenue between 45th and 46th streets. Directly opposite is the Church of the Heavenly Rest, with a conspicuously nar- row frontage. The Fifth Avenue Baptist Church, Dr. C. F. Aked, pastor, is at the west on the lower side of 46th Street. The site of the Windsor Hotel, destroyed by fire in 1800. is marked by the Windsor Ar- cade, between 46th and 47th Streets. No. 579 Fifth Avenue is the residence of Miss 15 New York Public 16 Helen Gould, No. 587 that of James B. Hag- gin, capitalist and horseman, and No. 591 the home of Mrs. Robert Goelet. Diagonally across from the latter dwell- ing, at 48th Street, is the St. Nicholas Col- legiate Reformed Church. Mrs. Roswell P. Flower resides at No. 597, and Mrs. Ogden Goelet at No. 608. The red brick structure at the next street on the cast side is The Belgravia, while about the centre of the block is the Democratic Club, No. 617. The Buckingham Hotel, at 50th Street, is the next point of interest. No. 634 Fifth Avenue was formerly the home of Darius Ogden Mills, the philanthropist and found- er of the Mills Hotels. This brings us to the most beautiful church edifice in America, St. Patrick's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), whose grace- ful Gothic spires are a striking feature of this part of the avenue. The cathedral is open through the day and will repay care- ful study. The Union Club occupies at- tractive new quarters at the northeast cor- ner of 51st Street. The brown stone resi- dences between 51st and 52d Streets on the west side are known as the "Vanderbilt twin-houses." The present occupants are Henry C. Frick and William D. Sloane. On the upper corner is the home of William K. Vanderbilt. The fashionable Protestant Episcopal Church of St. Thomas, partially destroyed by fire a few years ago and to be rebuilt in the near future, is at 53d Street. Next to the church are the residences of Dr. W. Seward Webb and H. McKay Twombley. In the block on the opposite side of the avenue is the home of Tames T. Pyle at No. 673, that of Cornelius Vanderbilt at 17 677, and Levi P. Morton at 681. One would hardly select the unpretentious brown-stone and brick dwelling just west of Fifth Ave- nue on 54th Street as the residence of the richest man in the world. This house is, however, occupied by John D. Rockefeller, president of the Standard Oil Co. His brother, William, vice-president of the or- ganization, lives on the northeast corner of 54th Street and Fifth Avenue. The block between 54th and 55th Streets, on the west side, is taken up by the Uni- versity Club, northwest corner, and the Hotel Gotham, southwest corner. The ex- clusive Hotel St. Regis is at the southeast corner of 55th Street. The Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church is diagonally oppo- site. Its pulpit was for many years occu- pied by Dr. John Hall. The four corners at the crossing of 57th Street are marked by notable residences, that of Harry Payne Whitney on the south- west corner, Mrs. Collis P. Huntington, the widow of the railroad magnate, on the southeast corner, Mrs. Herman Oelrichs on the northeast corner, and Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt on the remaining corner. The latter residence, extending from 57th to 58th Streets, has witnessed numberless bril- liant social functions, and in point of mag- nificence has few rivals on Fifth Avenue. William Iselin, the dry goods merchant, lives at No. 745. We now approach the principal entrance to Central Park and the Plaza, a large square containing an imposing equestrian statue of General Sherman, designed by St. Gaudens, and erected in 1004. Three of New York's well known hotels are grouped about this point, the new Plaza Hotel at 10 Central Park and the Plaza 20 the left and the Hotels Savoy and the Neth- erlands at 59th Street. The narrow building at No. 763, next the Savoy, is popularly known as the "spite house." Here is also located the exclusive chemists, the Ramsdell Drug Co., the retail successors to Daggett & Ramsdell. The Van Norden Trust Co. is at the lower corner of 60th Street, and the marble home of the Metropolitan Club, often called the "Millionaires' Club," on the upper corner. The so-called "[Millionaires' Row"' may be said to begin at about this point. The home of Elbridge T. Gerry, who has identified himself so actively with legislation for the benefit of children and animals, is next to the Metropolitan Club. W. Emlen Roose- velt, banker, resides at No. 804, and Mrs. J. P. Kernochan at No. 824. At the lower corner of 64th Street is the home of E. J. Berwind, financier, that on the upper corner the former residence of George Crocker, now deceased. Opposite 64th Street in Central Park is an old arsenal now used for the offices of the Park Department. No. 836 is the home of Isidor Wormser, and 838 that of W. Watts Sherman. The double house on the upper corner of 65th Street is the Astor Mansion, the home of Col. John Jacob Astor, and the former home of Mrs. William Astor. G. B. Schley, the broker, resides at No. 845. The dwelling at the upper corner of 66th Street is occupied by Mrs. Henry O. Have- meyer, widow of the sugar refiner, while next to it, at No. 852, is the home of Col. Oliver H. Payne, a capitalist of vast inter- ests. Mrs. George Kidd resides at No. 853 and George Gould at No. 857, on the upper corner of 67th Street. C. T. Yerkes formerly 21 Metropolitan Museum of 22 lived at No. 864, a house noted for its won- derful collection of painljings and art treas- ures. No. 871 was once the home of Wil- liam C. Whitney, former Secretary of the Navy. No. 879, on the lower corner of 69th Street, is the home of Ogden Mills, and No. 883 is the John Sloane Mansion. The Lenox Library, between 70th and 71st Streets, represents the costly gift of James Lenox, presented to the city in 1870. It contains many rare and valuable volumes. Open daily, 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., free. Di- rectly across the avenue is the Hunt Me- morial, dedicated to the memory of Rich- ard Morris Hunt, the designer of the li- brary, "in recognition of his services to the cause of art in America." No. 908, at the lower corner of 72d Street, is the residence of Mrs. James A. Burden. Just within the 72d Street entrance to the Park may be seen a bronze statue of Morse, the inventor of the telegraph. The home of R. Guggen- heimer, at No. 923, is conspicuous because of the four caryatides on the top story. The Jewish Temple Beth-El, on the low- er corner of 76th Street, may be easily rec- ognized by its gilded dome dec rations. Senator W. A. Clark's new mansion rears its magnificent bulk at 77th Street, Payne Whitney resides at No. 972, between 78th and 79th Streets, and Mr. Fletcher, who made a fortune in "Castoria," on the lower corner of 79th Street. A group of three houses around the upper corner are those of the Brokaw family, clothing manufac- turers. Mr. Isaac V. Brokaw occupies the corner dwelling, and H. C. and Irving B.. the twin houses next to it. Between 79th and 80th Streets, the narrow but ornate bow front at No. 987 marks the residence of 23 Home of Andrew Carnegie- Mrs. W. B. Leeds. No. 990 is the home of F. W. Woolworth, of five-and-ten-cent- store fame, and No. 993 that of Louis Stern, the dry goods merchant. The 'Metropolitan Museum of Art at 826 Street, is another monument to the genius of the late Richard M. Hunt. From an architectural point of view, the new cast wing is most worthy of attention. The vis- itor to Xew York cannot be urged too strongly to become acquainted with at least a few of the treasures of this largest art museum in the country. Free (except Monday and Friday). Hours: 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.; Saturday, 10 a. m. to 10 p. m.; Sun- day, 1 to 5:30 p. m. Cleopatra's Needle, the obelisk presented to the United States by the Khedive of Egypt and transported thither at the expense of Commodore Van- derbilt, is within the Park near the Mu- seum. At 85th Street is the Fifth Avenue Apart- ment House, the only apartment house on "Millionaires' Row." No. 1045 is the resi- dence of R. Starr Dana, and No. 1063 that of Henry Phipps. The latter mansion is a beautiful new white marble edifice with elaborate gates designed by Les Freres Dclisle of Paris. The more notable homes end with the palatial home of Andrew Car- negie at ooth Street, reported to have cost a million dollars. It is surrounded by a spacious garden. RIVERSIDE "DRIVE >i>v^=^TN^O reach Riverside Drive by S^ ===: f -A the motor stage, we leave Fifth Avenue at 57th Street and proceed west- ward. The new home of the Lotus Club may be seen at No. no 57th Street. The next point of interest is Carnegie Hall, at Seventh Avenue and 57th Street, one of the largest auditoriums in the world. On the opposite side of the street, at No. 215, near Broad- way, is the American Fine Arts Society. As we turn into Broadway and turn to the pert! 1 , we find ourselves in the motor-car secti 1 ci the city. Fifty-ninth Street brings us to Columbus Circle with its striking Columbus Column, a gift of the Italian residents of the city at the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the discovery of America. At 626. Street, by glancing to the east, a glimpse of the New Theatre on Central Park West may be ob- tained. At 67th Street on the east side of Broadway is the 22nd Regiment Armory. A number of magnificent apartment hotels and houses now greet the eye, among which may be mentioned the Marie Antoinette, directly across from the armory, the Ne- vada at 69th Street, and the Ormonde at 70th Street. St. Andrew's Hotel is at the corner of 72nd Street. Before turning through this 27 street the immense apartment hotel, the Ansonia, may be seen one block north, 73d to 74th Streets; also the statue of Verdi in Sherman Square, near by. Riverside Drive is soon reached, the most picturesque avenue in the city, flanked as it is by the beautiful strip of park at its base and overlooking the lordly Hudson and Palisades. Although apartment houses pre- dominate over private residences, the for- mer are truly palatial. Occupying the block between 73d and 74th Streets is the stately home of Charles Schwab, the steel king. The new memorial fountain opposite 76th Street, surmounted by a huge eagle, was presented to the city by Robert Ray Ham- ilton. At 88th Street, upon an embankment a short distance back from the drive, is a dark, two-story frame dwelling, once the home of Joseph Jefferson, the actor. The Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument of white marble at 8qth Street was erected by the city and dedicated in 1902. At this point a fine view of the river with Grant's Tomb in the distance may be had. Oppo- site the monument on the upper corner of 8oth Street was the home of the late Henry Codman Potter, Bishop of New York, and ATrs. Potter, and on the upper corner of ooth Street that of John Matthews, the soda water manufacturer. On the northeast corner of T02d Street is the residence of Mrs. Bertha Foster, whose husband made a fortune by patenting a glove hook. No. 316 was once the home of Richard Mansfield, the actor. A bronze equestrian statute of Franz Sigel occupies a commanding position at the foot of io6th Street. On the upper corner of 107th Street is the new dazzling marble resi- 29 30 dence of Schinasi, the cigarette manufac- terer. At 114th Street the old Rowan home- stead, a true Colonial type presents, a strik- ing contrast to the modern apartment houses by which it is surrounded. Beginning at 116th Street the buildings of Columbia University may be seen by gl ing through the cross streets at the right. The red brick building at the north-east cor- ner of Broadway and 116th Street once be- longed to the old Bloomingdale Asylum. Barnard College for women is on [19th Street. The gray walls of the pretentious now Theological Seminary form a conspic- uous feature of this section, occupying the two blocks bounded by 120th and I22d Streets. Fairmouht Avenue and Broadway. Grant's Tcmb is at 123d Street, a simple but dignified piece of architecture on a sightly eminence overlooking the river. The corner stone of this beautiful granite pile was laid by President Harrison in 1892. In the crypt under the dome may be seen the ^arcophasri of General Grant and Mrs. Grant. On the north side of the tomb is a tree planted to the memory of General Grant by the Chinese states- man. Li Hung Chang. MOTHER GOOSE =TEA SHOP= "WHITHER, OH WHITHER, OH MAIDEN SO SHY?" "TO THE MOTHER GOOSE TEA SHOP," WAS HER REPLY, "AND WHAT WILL YOU FIND THERE, OH MAIDEN SO SWEET?" "I'LL FIND THERE-OF ALL PLACES- THE BEST THINGS TO EAT." Children's Luncheons and Teas a Specialty. Waffles Served from 3 to 6 p. m. Special Dinners Arranged Upon Application. A LA CARTE MRS. C. L. STUDWELL Owner Thirteen East Thirty-fifth Street 'Phone, Madison Square, 3161