MASTER NEGATIVE NO. 91-80081 MICROFILMED 1992 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES/NEW YORK as part of the "Foundations of Western Civilization Preservation Project" Funded by the NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES Reproductions may not be made without permission from Columbia University Library COPYRIGHT STATEMENT The copyright law of the United States - Title 17, United States Code ~ concerns the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material... Columbia University Library reserves the right to refuse to accept a copy order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. AUTHOR: MORTON, EDWARD TITLE: TRAVELS IN RUSSIA PLACE: LONDON DA TE : 1830 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DEPARTMENT BIBLIOGRAPHIC MICROFORM TARGET Master Negative # 31-800gl'2 Original Material as Filmed - Existing Bibliographic Record 947.01 M846 Morton, Edward. Iravels in Russia, and a residence at St. Petersburg and Odessa, in the years 1827-1829 ; intended to give some account of Russia as it is, and not as it is represented to be, &c. i&c. By Edward Morton ... London, Printed for Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Oreen, 1880. 1 p. 1.. [Vj-xlx, 486 p. 22«". Restrictions on Use: l^Rusala — Descr. & trav. 2:_^Petrograd — Descr. 3. O dessa, Russla- Descr. Library of Congress r^ DK26.M8S laSld] 4—2005 TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA REDUCTION RATIO: /' FILM SIZE: 3 5 ^^n n\ IMAGE PLACEMENT: lA^g) IB IIB DATE FILMED:^ - ^een vnpmoned for lu-elve years, his case not having been deter- 'minedhythe courts appointed for such purposes!!. We now proceeded to that part of the buddmg which is allotted to criminals of the worst descrip- tion. At the entrance of the corridor with which their rooms communicate, three soldiers stood with muskets and fixed bayonets, who, upon our going into each chamber, immediately followed us, and placed themselves within the doorway, in order, no doubt, to prevent the possibility of an escape, as well as for our protection. I must confess this scene excited in my breast feelings of no ordinary description, and I shud- dered on approaching the guilty and miserable wretches we had come to see. The first room contained three known murderers ; the next, some desperate highway robbers (a villainous looking horde) ; a third, common thieves. One long room that was now unlocked to us contamed about fifty tried prisoners, who had all received sen- tence of banishment to the mines of Siberia, and were only waiting for a proper opportunity to be RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 31 sent there. TJiey are conducted tliither on foot, chained together, under an escort of Kozaks. Tlie system of classifying the prisoners, which has been so much attended to lately in many of the English gaols, and wliich has produced such beneficial consequences, has recentlybeen adopted in the Litofsky prison, as far as the present incon- venient building will admit of it ; but it is by no means so complete as to satisfy the wishes of Mr. yenning. However, those who have been con- fined for crimes of the worst description are now placed together, separate from the prisoners com- initted for less heinous ofl'ences ; and, in order to prevent disagreements and other inconveniences which might arise from the difference of religions and customs, &c., Jews are now kept distinct from those of other persuasions, which is a judicious and humane regulation. A large ward is fitting up as an infirmary for this part of the prison, (no such place yet existing !) upon which my opinion was requested, and which will answer very well for the purpose intended. But what a deficiency to have remained until now (Dec. 1827) ! For- merly the sick and the healthy, the young and the old, those hardened in crime, and those who were committed for the most triflingoflPences, were huddled indiscriminately together ; new comers were thrown amongst those labouring under gaol- fever, — the dreadful consequences of which can hardly be conceived, and certainly cannot be ade- quately described. Such was the case when our immortal Howard went over this very prison, and 32 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. such were the horrors which his philanthropy endeavoured to mitigate. Leaving this part of the prison, we proceeded to the female wards. Much reformation has taken place in this department: formerly the most riotous conduct used to be displayed here ; but at this time we saw about forty of the prisoners sitting decently and quietly round a large table at work, exhibiting a scene highly creditable to the exertions of those who have brought about such a desirable change. On both the male and female sides of the prison, strong rooms for soli- tary confinement have been fitted up, in which the refractory of both sexes are placed when ne- cessary : these have been found to produce such a beneficial efliect upon the minds of the prison- ers that they are now seldom required. T/ie unfortunate persons who were confined for po- litical offences we were not allowed to visit! From hence, we were conducted to the work- rooms, where the male prisoners are now re- gularly employed at such trades as they already understand, or are instructed in others by proper superintendents. There are thus separate rooms for shoemakers, tailors, bookbinders, carpenters, &c. : rope mats are also manufactured within the walls. Attached to the prison there has re- cently been established a magazine or shop, where the various articles made by the prisoners are deposited, and may be inspected and pur- chased by the public. This is, at present, merely in its infancy, but will, no doubt, be an useful RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. SS appendage to the institution. Observing a writing. desk in this magazine, made of nut wood, with plated ornaments, and being in want of such an article, I learned that it had been manufactured in the prison, as a Christmas present for the eldest son of the reigning Emperor, the Grand Duke Alexander ; but the ornaments being plated, as before observed, it was afterwards considered better to liave them made of brass^ as more dur- able ; a new one was in consequence ordered, and that already completed directed to be sold, of which I became the purchaser, at the price of seventy-five roubles. We next saw the chapel, which is a handsome and appropriate building : it contains, besides the usual religious ornaments of a Russian church, three tiers of galleries on each side for the male prisoners, the females being placed unseen at the end opposite to the entrance. The first, or ground floor tier, has three semicircular windows, or rather apertures in it, above the heads of the'cri- minals, who therefore can neither see nor be seen, although they can hear the service ; this is for murderers. The two other galleries have iron gratings in front, so that those contained in them are not altogether precluded from seeing. The debtors are placed below, in the centre. The chapel, I should say, is the best constructed part of the whole building, being conveniently arranged, and altogether admirably adapted for the purpose to which it is destined. A company of sixty soldiers is always quar- 3^4. IlESmENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG, tered in the building, to keep the prisoners in awe, and to prevent escapes. The Emperor and Empress, as well as the whole Imperial family, we were informed, send large sums of money to the prison, to be employed in the discharge of those debtors, who, upon a strict investigation of their cases, may appear worthy of receiving such a boon. His Majesty visited the prison in pei^on last summer ; and there is no doubt that in time numerous and important improvements will be adopted, which will put an end to some of the many evils still existing. The author of " St Petersburg*," it must be remembered, did not, as he himself informs his readers, visit this prison, and therefore could not be personally aware of the condition in which it was during his short sojourn in Russia ; but the facts which I have just brought forward, and which, it must be kept in mind, refer to an institution in the Russian metropolis itself, and, therefore, under the very eye of the Emperor, are proofs that the glowing picture of the excellence with which justice is administered in the empire at large cannot be quite so correct as " M. le Procureur" would lead the above named author, and the latter would induce his readers, to imagine. That a man should have been imprisoned for a series of years as a criminal, and that his case should be yet undetermined by the courts, is a fact at which one cannot but shudder, and must argue the existence of a radical defect somewhere ; nor ♦ Vide vol. ii. pp. 426--439. *^f: RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. should it be forgotten, that this was not a solitary instance, there being " several of long standing" still undetermined in the same prison. Now, if such things can happen in the metropolis, it may well be imagined what takes place in the interior of the country, where " the Emperor is far away*," and where there is little chance of his ever coming. Indeed that there are at present numerous and serious evils in the criminal juris- prudence of the country was freely and fully admitted, although it was added, " the ardent de- sire of His present Imperial Majesty is to remove them as soon, and as completely, as possible j" but the Emperor is unfortimately, in this instance, far from being all-powerful, and, notwithstanding the noble intentions which he is represented as entertaining, will find himself secretly thwarted in every possible manner, by all whose profits depend upon the continuance of those evils. In his panegyric on the Emperor Nicholas, the Author of " St Petersburg" says, « One of tlie additional burdens which he has voluntarily im- posed upon himself, is that of looking over the reports and returns of everj/ arrest mid imprisoji- ment that takes place in his empire.'' I do not doubt that this has been said to be the case, but I very much question the fact : I give the present emperor credit for every desire to purify the administration of justice in Russia, and I doubt not that he has made, and will continue to make, * "God is high, and the Emperor far axnayr ^ Russian proverb. ^ ^ y D ^ 36 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. f improvements in it, but I cannot for a moment allow it to be a pliysical possibility for him or for any man to look over "the reports of every arrest'* which takes place within the immense territorv now called Russia; nor do I believe that he knows even of all that occur. THE AUTHOR OF " ST. PETERSBURG " AND THE OTHER WRITERS UPON RUSSIA. " Those among foreign travellers*," says the author of " St. Petersburg," " who visited Russia with the rapidity of a posting telega, and have assumed at the same time the task of sitting in judgment over the people they had just leisure to look at ; or who, having conversed through the medium of an interpreter, or in a foreign Ian - guage, with perhaps a dozen Russians, hesitate not to define with the boldest precision the national character, the virtues, and the defects of fifty millions of inhabitants. Such travellers may reconcile to themselves a practice so in- consistent with notions of candour ^mdi veracity ^-^ I care not to follow their example." The author of <* St. Petersburg," if I mistake not, entered Russia in a calash with four horses, and left it in the same manner ; — a mode of conveyance, equalUng in swiftness " the rapidity of a posting telega," and he remained in St. Petersburg some- what less than seven weeks. As he did not understand one word of Russ upon his arrival in that capital, I presume he conversed with ♦ St. Petersburg, vol. i. p. 469. ir RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 37 the inhabitants either " through the medium of an interpreter, or in a foreign language;" he was, therefore, so far as I can see, in the very same condition which he declares must render a peison incapable of giving any opinion entitled to credit upon the Russian people, yet he pre- tends to " sit in judgment" upon them, by affirming that former travellers of note and character have misrepresented facts ; facts, be it remembered, concerning most of which he him- self could have had noexperience, — "a practice" certainly « inconsistent with notions of candour or veracity." As to the difficulty of deciding upon the virtues and vices of fifty millions ol' inhabitants, that is not by any means so Herculean a labour as may at first sight appear, but can soon be effected, and with considerable ac- curacy. We have only to consider of what parts the population in question is composed, and then to ascertain the ruling propensities of these parts respectively, and we shallform a correct idea of the whole. Although Russia may contain « fifty millions of inhabitants," to use the words of our author, yet its population is in fact composed but of two*, or at most three, distinct classes of society, each of which is little more than nominally subdivided. * Since the above was written I have turned over Bishop James's « Journal of a Tour," &c., and am happy to add his testimony to my own upon this point. His words are : — « Lookmg to society in Russia, we shall find that there exists, m fact, only two distinct orders, the nobles and the slaves." — Vol. i. p. 415. D 3 / 38 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 39 If we adopt the former arrangement, then the two great classes will be found to consist of " the upper " and " the lower," the former composed solely of the nobility, the latter of the merchants, bourgeois, inferior employes, ecclesiastics, hawkers, artificers, soldiers, sailors, and peasants, or slaves ; which, according to the census of 1818, may be set down as under: — Upper class Lower class 225,000 - 42,636,000 Total - 42,861,000 If we prefer the latter classification, and arrange the population under three heads, they will stand as follows : — First class — nobility - - 225,000 Second class — merchants, bourgeois, 1 ^ gng QryQ inferior employes, ecclesiastics -J ' Third class — artificers, hawkers, &c. 1 ^^ soldiers and slaves - - J * ' 000 Total - 42,861,000 Now, a traveller may obtain a very good idea of the lower class as he passes along the road, and from the conduct which he meets with at the post-houses, &c. ; and he will find some exquisite specimens of varieties among the second at the custom-houses *, and other public establishments ♦ I had not been at Cronstadt twenty-four hours before I was solicited to give bribesy in order to get my luggage passed ; and my non-compliance, as well as that of others, was, no doubt, the reason why we were detained so long, and so unjustifiably. 1 with which he is compelled to transact business. Should he reside for a few months in any of the capital towns, he will have the opportunity of duly appreciating another variety in the same class, the merchants, &c. ; and if he possess the means of being introduced into the first society, he may, in a short time, form a correct estimate as to the character of the nobility also; a very few excepted, he will find them all members of the same great family ; possessing the same features, the same virtues, and the same vices, the same habits, and the same ways of thinking and acting, modified, however, certainly, in some degree, by the various circumstances in which each individual may have been placed, but never losing entirely their na- tional characteristics. No respectable foreigner of common observation can reside in Russia for a period of twelve montlis without acquiring the ability of fairly estimating the general character of the Russians : even a much less time would be sufficient, in my opinion, for that purpose ; and therefore I cannot allow that the learned and highly respected Cambridge professor. Dr. Clarke, was not qualified to decide upon the question ; nor can I conceive why Dr. Lyall, who resided several years in the country, and particularly as he did not converse " through the medium of an interpreter, or in a foreign language," should not be considered as an authority on this subject. But these are not the only writers who have ex- pressed their opinions freely upon Russia ; there are many other names of high respectability and D 4 40 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. great moral weight, among whom it will be suf- ficient to mention the late Bishop James and the present Dr. Macmichael. I MASQUERADE AT COURT. January 13th, 1828. — On the first clay of the year, according to the old style, which the Rus- sians, to their disgrace be it spoken, alone con- tinue to employ, the " masquerade at court" takes place in the winter palace. It is called a " masquerade," but improperly, since no one is permitted to appear there in a mask. The palace is open, on this occasion, not only to the court and to respectable inhabitants of St. Pe- tersburg, but even the lowest peasants have the means of obtaining tickets as readily as any other persons. During the evening the women, from the highest to the lowest rank, wear the ancient Russian costume, which is exceedingly handsome. Having repeatedly heard this mas- querade described in glowing colours, I deter- mined to be preservt ; and as a preliminary step, procured the dress required to be worn by gentle- men on the occasion, which consists of a black silk mantle, generally faced either with pink or blue, and a tippet of black striped silk. These may be hired at several shops in the city, — for the use of which during the evening ten roubles are paid. Some idea may be formed as to the size of the apartments at the winter palace, from the fact that for the present masquerade 27,000 tickets RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 41 \t had been distributed among the nobility and mobilil^ ; which two classes, as far as my know- ledge extends, no where else so entirely com- prehend the population of a country, are no where so generally and strictly distinguished from each other, or so completely mixed as on the evening of New-year's Day in St. Petersburg • thus addmg another to the long list of incon- sistencies remarkable in the character and con duct of the Russians. At half past eight, having robed ourselves, two Russian gentlemen and myself took a couple of sledges and proceeded to the palace. Here we found, as we had anti- cipated, an immense concourse of people of all ranks and descriptions indiscriminately filling the saloons. Among the apartments open this evening to the public were the saloon of St George, that where the Emperor receives the foreign ambassadors, the white saloon, the gal lery of generals, &c. The whole was exceed mgly grand, and, I believe, unequalled in any other country ; but it was not the splendour of tlie scene that I beheld, (for the palaces of our own sovereign are, interiorly, far more gorgeously decorated than any in Russia,) but the immense scale upon which every thing was, the vastness ot the saloons, the countless multitudes, and the variety of the costumes, that produced such an impression on my mind. Having with consider- able difficulty reached the gallery of generals, we perceived the Emperor and court pass across it, but were unable from the pressure of the 1 42 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG, \\\ I surrounding crowd to get sufficiently near to distinguish more than their heads ; however, we moved forward in the direction which they had taken, and on our arrival in the saloon of St George we again saw the Emperor on liis return, leading the Empress, and followed by the whole court present, two and two. I this time was enabled to get so near as to have a perfect view of his Imperial Majesty. He was dressed in the court uniform of the chevalier guard, the coat of which is red : he is a fine stern looking young man, and appeared in excellent health and spirits. The' Emperor and the Imperial family, attended by a considerable number of the court, parade through the whole suite of apartments several times°during the evening, in the manner just described, and thus almost every person present has an opportunity of seeing them. The Em- peror afterwards walked through the rooms, leading the Empress-mother by the hand, and foUowed as before by the court. As we had hitherto been unable, from the surrounding pressure, to inspect all the rooms, we now, as soon as their Majesties and the attendant nobility had passed us, joined in the procession, and thus had the pleasure of viewing the whole suite of apartments with the least possible inconvenience. Military bands were placed in three of the saloons, and performed martial airs during the whole of the evening ; and refreshments were to be had in some of the rooms, which were eagerly sought after by the lower orders. For the court. \% RESIDENCE IN ST. PETEHSBURG. 43 a magnificent supper was prepared, in an apart- ment not open to the public. I was much pleased witli the dresses of the women, which, as before observed, are always upon these occa- sions in the ancient Russian costume. It varies in certain particulars, according to the different governments ; but the head-dress generally con- sists of a kind of tiara, covered with crimson or blue velvet, worked elegantly in various patterns with gold or silver thread, and ornamented with spangles or pearl beads ; while the gowns have broad gold or silver lace down the front and round the arm-holes, and encircling the waist they wear an embroidered girdle, the whole presenting a splendid appearance. The hair is plaited into a long tail hanging down the back, and to this is appended, at its termination, L large bow of some gaudily coloured riband. The heat within the palace was extreme, and the cold without twenty degrees below zero ; in consequence of which a curious phenomenon was produced upon several of the windows being opened to admit air, namely, the appear- ance of smoke pouring into the rooms. The atmosphere within being much loaded with moisture from the assembled multitudes, upon the cold air entering this moisture was imme- diately condensed and rendered visible, occa- sioning the appearance before aUuded to. About ten o'clock my friends and I lefl the palace and returned to the house of Count Vorontzof. 44 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. i! SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CEREMONY ATTENDANT UPON THE BLESSING THE WATERS OF THE NEVA. Jan. 18th, 1828. — The ceremony of blessing tlie waters of the Neva takes place annually on the Gth of January (old style), and by all true Russians is looked upon with veneration. The present Emperor is represented as deeply attached to the principles of the Greek church, the esta- blished religion of Russia; but what appears somewhat singular in a despotic government is, that all religions are tolerated, and funds are often supplied to build churches for modes of worship differing from the Greek religion as freely as for those of the latter faith. This is a part of Rus- sian policy, and does not arise from any liberality with respect to religious opinions, but rather from an indifference to them, and from the desire of sacrificing every thing to temporal ad- vantage. • Having heard that the benediction * Lest 1 should be supposed to make an assertion here not warranted by facts, let me remind the reader, that as Russia has so large a number of foreigners in her service filling the highest and most important offices in the state, if all were subjected to conformity with the established religion, a great proportion of these would throw up their appointments, as few among them, whether German, Eng- lish, or French, would be found disposed to submit to the idolatry of the Greek religion. List of a few offices held by foreigners while I was in Russia: — Chief of the Etat Major, General Diebitch (a German) ; Admiral of the Black Sea, Admiral Greig (a British subject); President of the Medico-Chirurgical Aca- demy, and Director General of the Medical Department of 5 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 45 was to take place at ten o'clock in the forenoon, I took care to be in the neighbourhood of the winter palace a few minutes previously. As, however, it did not seem likely, from the state in which I found things upon my arrival, that the ceremony would commence lor some time longer I amused myself by noticing the preparations which had been made for its celebration. On the edge of the Neva, midway between the admiralty and the winter palace, was erected a wooden temple of about thirty feet in height (reckoning from the frozen surface of the river), and about half that altitude above the level of the " Quai de la Cour," its width in proportion. It had seven arched windows, and a doorway of similar form, opening on to the quay, with a domed top of green latticed work. The sides of the temple were pamted white, except in those parts orna- mented with gilding and other decorations. Four pictures of scriptural subjects, in frames, were placed, at equal distances, around the top, cor- responding to the four cardinal points : one being a representation of baptism, and another of Jonah and the whale ; the remaining two I was unable ChietT/'/'^f""''^^"' <" Scotchman); Physician in Chief of the Navy, Dr. Leighton (an Enghshman) ; the SrelTwV' ""P^""' ^-"f-tory of Alexandrofsky General W.lson (an Englishman) ; the most celebrated pamter ever resident in Russia, and latterly Painter to the iTrV^'- ""r <^" ^"^"^'""-) ■' the Di-tor of he frSr'T ""^P""^ " ''• ^"^'^•'-g' "^^ Venning (an Enghshman) :_ these names are sufficient, but it would be easy to extend the list to a very great lengUi. ^1 4G RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. to see, their situation being towards the river. From the centre of the roof, internally, was suspended a silver dove, siu-mounted with a gilded radiance. Steps led up to the temple from the quay ; these were covered on either side with scarlet cloth, and in the middle with car- pet. There were, as yet, merely a few persons collected immediately about the temple, which the workmen appeared only then to be complet- ing. Some carriages of the nobility and military officers were driving up to the palace ; but it was evident, from the general want of bustle, that the ceremony would not take place for a considerable time. In order to keep myself warm (the temper- ature being eight degrees below zero) I walked up and down at the end of the admiralty, not knowing precisely from what point the procession was to set out ; but observing that several ladies had posted themselves near a particular door of the palace opposite to the fortress, and believing that they had good reason for so doing, I thought it would be prudent to depend upon their superior judgment, and follow their example. I acted accordingly, and subsequently had no reason to regret my change of position. Near this spot I sauntered about, the people gradually increasing in number, until at last the surrounding multi- tudes necessarily rendered me stationary, there being assembled, I should suppose, considerably above 10,000 persons by a few minutes after twelve o'clock, at which time the sound of vocal and instrumental music, proceeding from the in- It RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 47 terior of the palace, led me to conclude that the ceremonial had commenced, which was soon evi- dent by the palace doors, opposite to where 1 stood, being thrown open, and then I could per- ceive the procession approaching from the inte- rior, and shortly after it reached the street. First came an officer of rank, then two priests, bearing each a standard or banner; after these more priests, without standards ; next came one carry- ing at the top of a pole a lantern ; then followed, two and two, several of the superior clergy, in' eluding bishops and archbishops, some of them bearing lighted wax candles. Next a priest, holding an ornamented golden cross, who was succeeded by other priests, several having wax tapers as before, and the two last standards. The priests were clothed in long robes richly embroi- dered with gold and silver wire, very much re- sembling the costume of the ancient monks in England. They wear long beards, mustachios, and fur caps, and carry a gold-headed cane. After the last standards singing boys dressed in red, perhaps forty in number, followed, and then an equal number of adult choristers similarly clothed, the whole chanting some sacred melody, which the military bands within the palace ac- companied. These ministers and servants of the church having passed, the Emperor next appeared with his hat off, accompanied by the Grand Duke Michel ; several mUitary officers of the highest rank followed, succeeded by those of lower de- gree, and a host of subalterns closed the proces- . I. 48 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBUaC, I' sion, several banners being also carried among them. In this way, the chanting continuing, the procession moved on to the temple, upon reaching which the water of the Neva received the bene- diction so anxiously expected by the surrounding multitude, the minutiae attendant upon which, however, I cannot describe, having been unable to approach sufficiently near to the building, owing to the dense crowd ; nor have I attempted to supply the deficiency from the pages of other authors, having no wish to repeat particular de- tails of the frivolous and superstitious formalities which the professional votaries of the Greek church are so fond of displaying to their ignorant and slavish disciples. Singers, young and old, officers and priests of every denomination, up to the Emperor and the Patriarch, with lanterns, candles, banners, and crosses,— these, as we have already seen, formed the actors upon the occasion, the less privileged classes filling up the remaining room as spectators ; while processions to and from the palace, and finally the benediction, composed the entertainment, at the conclusion of which no doubt all present were, or affected to be, firmly persuaded that thus for another year had been secured to the water of the Neva properties even more valuable and extraordinary than those which acquired for it the distinguished praise of the author of " St Petersburg." * About a quar- • " After all, the best, the purest, the most grateful, the most healthy, the most delightful, and really national be- verage of the inhabitants of St. Petersburg is the water of V HESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 49 ter of an hour having been so employed several rockets were discharged, and shortly afterwards the Emperor returned almost alone to the palace, and appeared again at its entrance. Soon afler* wards, also, the priestly procession returned, in the same manner in which it had set out, to the pa- lace, the Emperor with his drawn sword meeting It at the door and going in and returning several tmies ; so that it appeared as if he were receivinwr horses, but the traces between the wheelers and the leaders are of such enormous length, as fre- quently to produce a most ridiculous appearance ; for in turning tlie corner of a street, it is not unusual to see the leaders long before the wheelers cpme into view ; and the postillions, with that perversity which characterises the lower order of Russians, always sit upon the off instead of the near horse (contrary to the prac- tice with us and other nations), in consequence of which their riglit hands are rendered com- paratively of little use, and they have mucli less command over the animals they drive. There are many good horses in the Russian capital, but they cannot generally be put in comparison with the countless multitudes of beautiful crea- tures of the same description that are to be daily seen in the British metropolis; and in Odessa I could pick out about a dozen equipages, which, if driven in the streets of London, would collect a mob around them, in consequence of their gro- tesque appearance. Imagine one of our oldest fashioned and most ruinous hackney coaches, to which are yoked four small, shaggy, dirty horses, with harness which appears never to have been cleaned since it was first put into use ; add to these a bearded coachman, with a red shawl round his waist, holding the reins in both hands, and a short whip hanging from the little finger of his right hand 5 an urchin of a postillion. seated upon a high Kozak saddle on the off. horse, with a dirty greasy footman behind, fur- nished with an enormously large worn-out cocked hat, and some idea may be formed of a majority of the " magnificent" equipages which are daily parading in due state the thinly peopled streets of Odessa. What elegant assemblages of such vehicles have I seen at the weekly dinners of the Governor-general ! Perhaps, however, the best proof that even the higher orders of Rus- sians are little accustomed to see really hand- some equipages will be found in an anecdote which General Leon Naryschkine * is very fond of telling of himself; namely, that he mistook, upon his arrival at Dover, the mail coach for one of the private carriages of the king of England. NUMBER OF MURDERS IN RUSSIA AND IN ENGLAND. I liave frequently, while in Russia, heard re- proachful allusions made to the number of mur- ders which take place in England. " I never take up an Enghsh journal," said a Russian gen- tleman to me one day, " but I find a murder." " True," answered I, " our papers do certainly too often contain accounts of such dreadful oc- currences, but it is because all that happen in the whole extent of the United Kingdom are at once published ; and your journals never contain them, not because murders occur less frequently * " Leon Narischkine" — '« being brave as a lion,' and as spiritucl as he is brave." — St. Petersburg, vol. ii. p. 363. I': 72 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. [\ i in Russia than with us, but because your govern- ment never allows the details to be published ; and eleven twelfths of the population never know or suspect that they have happened ; while ours, on the contrary, not only sanctions such a pro- ceeding, but encourages it, for the purpose of aiding the ends of public justice." But a truce to mere opinions. The reader shall now have some facts, upon which he may form his own calculations. From the journal of St. Petersburg it appears, that in the space of six years no less than seven thousand and forty-seven murders were officially declared to have taken place ; and there can be no question that this statement falls greatly short of the real number known to have been committed during that period. The num- bers in each year stand as follows : — In the year 1823 m - - 1099. 1824 • • - 1287. 1825 . W - 1110. 1826 • . - 1095. 1827 . m - 1226. 1828 « m - 1230. About the time of my arrival in Odessa a most diabolical murder was perpetrated upon a gentle- man there by his own coachman, in concert with another individual : the former was discovered and knouted in the town ; yet the Odessa Ga- zette did not mention the circumstance, and I never heard of it until by accident long after- wards. Ill "'g RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 73 RUSSIAN SERVAGE. The Russian slaves, according to the author of " St. Petersburg," are no slaves at all : — " the serf is not in a real state of bondage ;" — yet he cannot leave the village in which he was born upon any pretence whatever, without the per- mission of his seigneur ; nor cease to labour three days in the week for liim without being severely punished for the omission. The system of laws in Russia respecting the slaves (admitting slavery to be at all justifiable) may be good ; but the question is, how far are these laws acted upon ? If the seigneur or intendant of an estate should require the serfs to work for a longer period than the law prescribes, is it to be imagined that they would dare to refuse ? certainly not. But suppose they did refuse, and were to be flogged in conse- quence, will any one believe that they would be likely to obtain redress for this injustice ? " Every proprietor of land has the right to punish a re- fractory or vicious serf* by having him flogged on the back ; '* and the said proprietor, or more likely his intendant, will be the judge of what constitutes a " vicious serf.'* It is well known that these really or reputed " vicious " slaves are those selected as soldiers when the levies for the army occur, if the intendant choose that such should be the case ; and it is therefore pretty evident that the slaves will be afraid to oppose any injustice of which the former may be guilty towards them, except when driven to the last A Itl 74 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBUIKJ. extremity. Dr. Lyall, who was well qualified to crive a correct opinion upon the subject, from his fong residence in Russia, and his knowledge of the language, observes, that "among those to be given away as soldiers, though at times deter- mined by ballot, are sure to be included all use- less persons,— all individuals uho have given ^ff^ncey—in a word, as the Russians express it, all Mnauvais sujets.'" This last is a very fa- vourite term among them. But it is gravely said, « of every excess of; or unjust punishment, the serf has the right of complaining to the police ; and the knowledge of tliis fact alone would be suf- • ficient to restrain even the most inhuman." Com- plaining to the police, I fear, in many cases would be of little avail, even allowing that the slave was not prevented from so doing ; I am equally afraid that the dread of such complaint would have as little power in restraining ill-disposed seigneurs or intendants from acts of oppression. Indeed a fact related by the author of " St. Petersburg*' himself proves that the slaves, if ill treated by their seigneurs, are not likely to obtain any redress from the village or local authorities. He says, '' On a recent occasion the Emperor having been informed that some young officers in one of the provinces had been guilty of excesses tou^ards their peasants^ and that the remon- strances of the governor, made in consequence of the complaints of the peasants, had proved useless, ordered the tribunal of tutelage to take the manai^^emcnt of the estates into its own RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 75 liands," &c. Here the seigneurs had been guilty of " excesses " (no doubt horrible oppres- sion and cruelty) towards their slaves, the latter had complained to the authorities, and could obtain no redress ; when the governor even was applied to, he only used " remonstrances^' towards the young tyrants, which, as might be expected, had no effect. And had not the Emperor, by some lucky chance " been informed" of the circumstances, there can be no question but that they would have escaped totally unpunished, and the sufferings of the slaves would have been at least continued and most probably increased. This act of the Emperor redounds very much to his credit, and is more truly honourable to him than if he had added thousands of square miles wrested from neighbouring powers, to the gi- gantic, and already too widely extended empire over which he rules. But how seldom can such complaints reach his ear! A circumstance, which occurred soon after my arrival at Odessa, may also be mentioned here in support of what I have been advancing. The wife of a slave, who had been cruelly treated by his master, and con- fined in irons, reached Odessa, and, on one of the public days of audience, complained to the Governor-general and implored his aid. 'J'he latter thought the matter so serious, that he im- mediately despatched Prince Herheoulidzef, one of his aides de camp, accompanied by a gendarme in a telega with post horses, to the spot where the occurrence had taken place, which was some n 'f^' m 76 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 77 distance from Odessa, with strict orders to re- lease the slave, to enquire into the affair, and report to himself upon the subject. What the result was 1 know not, nor is it of any conse- quence to my argument, the whole case showing that no redress or reUef could be obtained on the spot from the local poUce ; or else, why did the wife travel a considerable distance to apply to the Governor-general ? Had the slave been unmarried, perhaps his case would never have been known ; for who would have dared to come to Odessa in his behalf? As for the " Starosta or Elder, who is elected by deputies, and chosen from amongst themselves by a majority with the unanimous consent of the inhabitants," I can only say, it is not very likely that he will oppose the seigneur's wishes, nor can I believe him to be proof against a bribe, when it is notorious that persons of much higher rank in Russia are easily influenced that way. For the same reason, I do not think that the seigneur need much dread the verdict of the coroner's inquest, which, we are told, is held upon the death of a slave from the violence of punishment inflicted ; since, as Dr. Macmichael observes, " should this be exercised so severely as to occasion fatal consequences, it is well understood, that the bribe of 100 roubles will purchase the silence and connivance of the magistrate ; and, when it is recollected that most of these civil officers have been raised from the rank of domestics, and that their yearly appoint- ments amount only to 100 roubles, it is not rea- sonable to expect that they should be quite inaccessible to temptations of a pecuniary na- ture." The serfs, we are informed, moreover, " should they prefer it, may at once become the real farmers of the land, by agreeing to give an annual sum previously settled." When the serfs have the land thus in their own possession, they may, it is well known, and often do, live com- fortably, and realise money: but the fact is, they have not the option of so doing. At this moment I recollect instances of two ladies, owners of lands in the south of Russia, who refuse the obroc or capitation tax, and insist upon exacting the labour of their serfs, in spite of " agents entailing a greater expense." Notwith- standing that the intendant upon one of these estates (formerly a colonel in the army) is paid 500/. per annum, the proprietress of course receives more than would be the case if she accepted the obroc ; otherwise we cannot sup- pose that she would follow a practice, which is considered illiberal, and must, therefore, be un- popular among the slaves ; such, however, is the fact. After all then that has been advanced by the " President," and all that I have myself heard and seen while resident in the country, I am still inclined to believe, that the Russian peasant is an absolute slave ; though, I also believe, that in many respects, his haughty seigneur is the same * ; and, that " if the noble • " The power exercised by the Emperor over all classes of the nobility, is of as extraordinary a nature as the do- if i1 1[ liirtiiiiiiiifaiiM ^^ \i 78 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. is entitled to regard his serfs as belonging to the soil, he has himself, on the other hand,^ no pro- tection against the mandate of the Emperor, which may send him to Siberia, without assign- ing any cause for his exile/'— Macmichael's Journey, p. 22. CAPITAL PUNISHMENTS IN RUSSIA. " Of course you are aware," says M. Le Pro- cureur*, " that the pain of death was abolished in Russia by our Empress Elizabeth." I have had this specious observation, this attempt to create a false impression, more than once made to myself while resident in Russia, and have on every occasion proved to the party who uttered it, that I was not to be deceived by such a flimsy argument as to the real state of the case; and I confess I was somewhat surprised to find it repeated once more in " St. Petersburg." That the punishment of death was abolished by an ukase of the Empress Elizabeth nobody doubts ; but what avails this, if the reigning sovereign can and does inflict it at his pleasure? and that he possesses both the power and the will to punish capitally, is proved by what took place RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 79 minion of the latter over their slaves ; neither can they marry without the Imperial consent, or select for themselves a profession ; and their property, though by more indirect means, is in some sort subjected to the same authority." — James's Tour, vol. i. p. 420. * Vide « St. Petersburg," vol. ii. p. 439. less than five years ago. In the conspiracy* which occurred upon the accession of the present Emperor to the throne of Russia thirtj/ six in- dividuals were condeiimed to death y of whom five or six were hanged t at the fortress of St. Pe- tersburg, and, I believe, afterwards burned. This fact, although there can be little doubt as to the sufferers meriting their fate, is in itself a complete refutation of the assertion, that direct capital punishments do not exist in Russia, such being obviously the impression which M. Le Pro- cureur would wish to make upon the mind of his * When describing the breaking out of this conspiracy the author of ** St. Petersburg," in his fondness for the use of the French language, makes the Emperor Nicholas ad- dress the rebel soldiers in French : — " En avant, marche ! Voyons,** said the Emperor, " jusqu'oii ira votre revoke : me voila seul devant vous, chargez vos armes ! " He doubtless forgot that the Russian common soldiers neither speak nor understand that language ; and I presume, therefore, that the Emperor addressed them in Russ, and not in French, and that the author copied, inadvertently, the words of M. Ancelot's ** Six Mois en Russie," instead of translating them. f This is said to have been the first time that execution by hanging took place in Russia, and further, that it was ordered by the Emperor for the purpose of rendering their sentence more degrading to the culprits, who were military officers, some having attained the rank of colonel. As no one could be found in St. Petersburg qualified to act as executioner, the hangman was sent for from Finland. Upon being turned off, the rope by which one of them was sus- pended broke, in consequence of which he fell and sustained severe injury : just before he was again suspended, he ex- claimed ^* this is too cruel to be hanged at twice.'' 80 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 81 II auditor, and what all readers (personally unac- quainted with Russia) would be led to suppose on perusing the above quotation from the work in question. I say direct capital punishments, for who can tell how many are cut off indirectly ? It is generally known that the universal punish- ment in Russia for all real or imputed crimes is banishment to the mines of Siberia ; and out of the countless multitudes of unfortunate crea- tures who are sent to that horrid region, how many return ? * It cannot be supposed for a moment but that during a journey of perhaps from fifteen hundred to two thousand or more miles on foot, during the severity of a northern winter, probably, many, very many, must drop by the way, and die from fatigue and exhaustion: but who ever hears of their death ? there are no means by which their friends or the public can obtain any tidings of them, or ascertain whether they are still living or have paid the debt of nature ; and, if dead, whether they have died naturally or otherwise. The administration of justice, as it is termed, is more or less corrupt all over the empire, in proportion to the distance of any place from St. Petersburg, or the facilities of communication ^aith the Emperor^ and conse- quently the greater or less probability as to His Majesty being informed of the abuses which may be committed. In Siberia it must be, therefore, in the worst possible state ; but ad- ♦ " Few return to carry tidings of the mines in the East. — Lyairs Travels, vol. i. p. 139. ♦♦ ditional grounds for such corruption exist in this country of exiles. In the first place, be- cause the governors, and particularly all the su- bordinate officers, must be> speaking generally, low and needy persons; for who can expect reputable men to accept willingly offices in such a district ? and, secondly, on account of the diffi- culty or impossibiUty of forwarding any com- plaints to St. Petersburg, though they may re- late to the most flagrant instances of oppression ; and even if forwarded, the little probability of their producing due eflfect from the suspicion with which all such communications must na- turally be viewed by the Emperor : every thing here contributes to render injustice and villany secure. But let us see what Dr. Lyall, a high authority on the subject, says; — " In my opinion the state of civil administration in Russia cannot be represented in too black colours. In so far as regards Siberia, the corruption, the venality, and the oppression, of the legislature were latterly most lamentable and incredible. A sufficient confirmation of its woful condition is . afforded by the fact, that when the late governor of that part of the Russian territory. General Spe- ranski, left his situation, an immense number (be- tween 500 and 600 individuals), who were in the tribunals, and who had command over their fellow- creatures, were thrown into prison, because that well meaning man, a real friend to his country, had exposed their nefarious practices and conduct." * * Lyall's Travels, vol. i. p. 93. G S2 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBUUC, ■I' i It must therefore be evident, in spite of all the vain boasting about there being no capital punish- ments in Russia *, that they are inflicted when- ever occasion requires ; or rather, whenever the autocrat chooses ; and, moreover, that numbers, though not sentenced to death, die annually in the execution of their sentences of banishment, without taking into consideration the many who doubtless expire during or after the punishment of the knout t, and from other causes ;— thus m Russia, those who are only sentenced to banish- ment frequently meet with death in addition ; whereas in England, it is well known that out of the unfortunate persons who liave been found guilty of offences declared capital by our laws, a small portion only actually undergo the ex- treme penalty of death ; the remainder, an im- mense majority, experience the clemency of the sovereign, and have their sentences commuted to banishment— not to regions similar to those of Siberia, not to unhealthy mines, but to a fertile, temperate, and salubrious climate, and even under the cheering prospect, that if theu* future conduct should be correct in their de- graded condition, they may eventually attain pecuniary competence and comparative respect- * If, as M. Le Procureur says, capital punishments were abolished by the Empress Elizabeth, then the Emperor Nfcholas has had the honour of re-establishing them. t They suffer the knout ; that is, they suffer dreadful scourging ; and, though they are not formally put to death, many of them die of the cruel wounds they receive. — Anecdotes of the Russian Empire. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 83 ability in the colony to which they have been sent, for the protection of their better-disposed countrymen in England. RUSSIAN STOVES. Notwithstanding the very favourable descrip- tion which has been given of the Russian peetch or stove by the author of a recent work on St. Petersburg, I shall venture to make a few ob- servations upon the same subject, wherein I differ a little in opinion from him, probably owing to my greater experience concerning it, in conse- quence of having sojourned a longer time in Russia. The stove in question is certainly an excellent method of heating an apartment, though it does not possess all the advantages some have imagined ; it is still imperfect, has several in- conveniences inseparable from its use, and if not well managed is very dangerous. It does not afford "an equal degree" of heat through the rooms as stated ; that part nearest the stove being, of course, always the hottest. One very great ob- jection to the use of the Russian stove is, that it prevents the air, in the apartments where it is em- l)loyed, from being renewed, which circumstance must unquestionably be injurious to health ; and may possibly be one cause why, as I have before observed, the complexion of the Russian ladies is so rarely good. The windows of the houses, during winter, have double sashes, and these are rendered almost air-tight by means of tow, putty, paste, and ))aper ; and the doors are also double ; G "2 Mi !i M 84 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. f'» I t [« very little communication, therefore, can take place between the external air and the air in the apartments, which must consequently be dete- riorated in quality and rendered imfit for respir- ation. Indeed, so palpable has this fact become to many foreigners resident in St. Petersburg, and even to some of the Russians themselves, that in their houses, particularly those of our country- men, will generally be found the English open fire-place added to the Russian stove, for the ex- press purpose of remedying the defect I have just been noticing. Count Vorontzof has an English fire-place in his own sitting-room, both in his house at St. Petersburg and in that at Odessa ; but I must say the Russians, speaking generally, adhere pertinaciously to the use of the peetch. With respect to the variation of tempe- rature which may take place in a room furnished with a stove in the Russian metropolis, I cannot pretend to give an opinion, as I did not, while there, pay much attention to the state of the ther- mometer in my room ; but when I was resident at Odessa I had numerous occasions and great necessity for such observation, during the severe winter of 1828-9, and can therefore speak with confidence upon the subject. My apartments by no means remained of the same temperature at all times during the twenty-four hours, ("the heat of the stove continuing unabated;") and in conse- quence of their becoming gradually cooler, I found it sometimes necessary to have them heated twice in the course of the day, early and late. In the RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 85 morning I generally found them cool ; about two hours after the fire had been kindled in the stove they were of their proper temperature, and again in the evening the warmth began to decline, so as in very severe weather to render a second heating necessary. I certainly had never, like the author of " St. Petersburg," the good fortune to find my in-door thermometer vary no more than " half a degree " for seven weeks, except for three days ; and whether this circumstance arose from my having resided at Odessa, only a third- rate town in the empire, where the " dvomicks^* may be supposed to be less skilful than those of the metropolis, where every thing is in perfection, I shall leave for others to decide, but the reader may depend upon the fact being as I have stated. The danger, which I have before observed as con- sequent upon the use of the Russian peetch, if carelessly managed, is of the most serious nature. When the wood is perfectly burned out, and not till then, the stove is shut down, as it is termed ; which operation consists in putting an iron stopper or door upon the chimney near its comme.ncement, and then, what the author of " St. Petersburg " calls the upper door is opened. If this be pre- maturely done, and the error not perceived in time, the persons who are in the room will be most probably suffocated, in consequence of its being filled with irrespirable gas. Accidents of this description frequently happen in Russia during the winter months ; indeed from this cause alone numbers of the lower orders lose G 3 \.\ 8(> RESIDENCE IN ST. I'ETEIISIJURO. i tf their lives annually. A melancholy instance of the kind happened while I was at Odessa, in the house of General Leon Naryschkine. On a very cold night, during the winter of 1828-9, one of the servants observed to his companions that he would " heat tlie peetch again, and make them comfortable for the night." The fire was accordingly re-lighted, and after what he thought a proper time, it was shut down as usual ; and he and several other servants arranged * themselves near the stove and soon fell asleep. After some time, one of them awoke ; and fintling himself labouring under very peculiar sensations, and a difficulty of breathing, endeavoured to make his way to the door of the apartment, but fell before he could reach it : he, however, ultimately did so ; and after having recovered a little, guessing the cause of his own illness, and being aware of the danger of his companions, immediately raised the alarm and procured assistance. Those that still remained in the room were speedily taken from it insensible, carried into the open air, and every measure taken to promote their recovery ; but two were found to be completely dead. The account given in " St. Petersburg," as to the process of heating the Russian peetch, con- tains some inaccuracies, which I am not at all surprised to find ; but which, however, ought to be corrected. It is said that the dvomkk " de- • The Russian servants have no regular beds found for them : they have a shoob or sheep-skin wrapper ; and this serves them for clothing in the day, and for a bed by night. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 87 spatclies the business" of lighting the peetch " in a few minutes." This is a mistake. The whole of the wood is not consumed " in five or six minutes ;" nor " in ten minutes more " is " the combustion complete," or " the lower door closed entirely, and the upper one partially or entirely opened." If the upper one were opened fifteen minutes after the commencement of the process, its infallible consequence would be the death of all the individuals in the chamber into which the upper door opened, unless they speedily quitted it. I never observed, certainly, the precise time by my watch which the wood requires to be perfectly consumed ; but it cannot be completed in less than an hour, and 1 believe it will take generally more than an hour ; and the peetch is ordinarily not shut down for at least two, and sometimes three, hours from the time of the fire being lighted. The quantity of wood consumed each time depends wholly upon the size of the fire-chamber and the degree of cold. This mode of heating houses could not be adopted in our country, owing to the expense of the f iiel which would be necessary; nor do I think it would be very easy to introduce the fashion, as few Englishmen would like to part with the comfortable appearance of a blazing fire, not- withstanding its inconveniences. SYSTEM OF RUSSIAN POSTING. INFAMOUS CONDUCT OF THE POSTMASTERS. I have often heard, while at St. Petersburg, the system of posting adopted in Russia lauded G 4 > 88 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBUUG. as excellent, and superior to that of all other countries ; and I confess until 1 had " seen with my own eyes, and heard with my own ears,'* I was inclined to. think it possibly might be so. I was told that the traveller is supplied with an order for post-horses in I he name of the Emperor ! that the rates to be paid are fixed by law — a certain number of kopecks only being given at each station for each horse per verst ; that the postillions are included in the sum paid for the horses ; that if in consequence of the bad state of the roads, &c. more horses are required than the number specified in the padaroshna, or government order, that the postmaster is com- pelled to furnish them without any extra charge ; that the distances are marked all over the empire by verst-posts at the side of the road, in conse- quence of which no disputes can arise as to the distances ; that a marche route may be obtained at the post-ofKce, by which, in like manner, the number of versts travelled can always be ascer- tained, and of course the sum that ought to be paid ; that in case of any dispute arising, the tarifi* on the subject may be demanded and in- spected ; and, finally, that there is a book at every station, in which the traveller is at liberty to enter any complaint he may think himself warranted in preferring, and which will be at once attended to by the proper officers, and the guilty parties punished. The reader shall judge how far the representation agrees with the reality. It is perfectly true that all the regulations just RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. ^9 enumerated exist, but that they avail nothing ; and what I am about to mention, from personal edperienee on this subject, also exemplifies the state of things in every other department through- out Russia, namely, that many of the regulations are good in the abstract, but that in reality they are never put in practice ; they might as well, therefore, not exist. The padaroshna is indeed an order for post-horses in the name of the Em- peror I but it is, nevertheless, openly laughed at and despised • : horses can only be procured according to the pleasure of the postmaster. It is perfectly true that the rates for posting are fixed by law ; yet the traveller will find that the postmasters will make him pay what they choose, and will abuse him into the bargain. Besides, as the rates for posting vary on the different roads, from three to five or eight kopecks per verst, and it is almost impossible for the traveller to know exactly upon what road he is, he will find many difficulties in even ascertaining what he ought to pay for his horses : as to what he will pay, that is quite another thing. But " he can demand the tariff." _ O yes ; but it will be shown him, if a foreigner, only in Russ ! he will most probably, therefore, not profit much by the * That is to say, it is only respected according to the power which its bearer possesses of enforcing obedience to it; in itself it avails nothing. If a Russian General arrives with a padaroshna it will secure him horses at once; but if a civilian and a foreigner produce one, it will either be at- tended to or not just as it may happen to suit the humour or the convenience of the postmaster. 90 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETEUSBUUG. I 1^ inspection. The postillions are said to be in- cliuletl in the charge for the horses • ; neverthe- less it will be found that they must be paid also. I had given my postillions, upon one occasion, GO kopecks a piece, and was abused because I would not give them more ! As to the extra horses not being paid for, I can only declare, that during iny travels alone in Russia I was furnished with a padaroshna for four horses ; that the postmas- ters })ut to my calash, against my wish, often six, and in one instance seven horses ; and in spite of all my remonstrances on the subject, and my threats of reporting their conduct to the Gover- nor-general and the Emperor, they only laughed at and abused me, and invariably compelled me to pay for the whole of them ; and upon one occasion, when I had refused to do so, they un- harnessed the animals, and put tliem in the stable a second kind and considerate message; accord- ingly, directing our portmanteaus to be sent afler us, we jumped into the officer's sledge, and were speedily conveyed to the Marshal's residence ;i where we stopped until the following morning, and where we experienced every comfort and attention that could be desired. Mogilef is the capital of the government of the same name, built upon the east bank of the Dnieper, and is a most ancient town, — the precise date of its foundation being unknown. Until the end of the thirteenth century, it belonged constantly to the Russian princes, after which it passed into other hands. In 1772, it was re-united to the Russian empire by the Empress Catharine the Second, who, in six yeai's afterwards, erected it into the chief town of the government of Mo^ gilef. It is a most curious place ; contains many convents for those professing the Greek and the Roman Catholic religions ; numerous churches, two synagogues, and the residence of a Rus- sian archbishop. The population is supposed to amount to about 9000 persons of both sexes, of which 2000 are of the Jewish re- ligion. There are in this town 22 tanneries; the manufacture of leather forming the chief employment of its inhabitants. The merchants of Mogilef carry on a considerable commerce with the ports of Riga, Memel, and Dantzic ; ex- porting leather, tallow, wax, honey, potashf K 4 I n t f • I I 136 JOURNEY FROM hemp, and com, and importing in return raw silk. Monday, Feb. 18. —At half past nine this morning, all being in readiness, we bade adieu to our distinguished host, whose good cheer was of material service in enabUng our mental and corporeal energies to encounter the distance and the difficulties yet remaining between us and Odessa. Wednesday, Feb. 20. (One o'clock a. m.) — We have just arrived at Cozaletz, a small town in the government of Tchemigof ; from Monday morning last, until the present moment, having been travelling continually, with the exception of stopping an hour for dinner at three o'clock on Monday afternoon, about half an hour on Tuesday morning at four o'clock (when we could procure merely a cup of tea), and at three o'clock yesterday afternoon, when we partook of a slender repast. This was hard work, certainly, yet it was absolutely necessary, in consequence of there being no inns or decent post-houses in the line of road for our accommodation. No- thing particular occurred on Monday beyond our passing through the following places, where we changed horses ; namely, the village of Kutnia, a distance of thirty versts and a quarter ; Rabo- vitchi, twenty-six and a half; Propoisk, twelve and a half (these were villages, the former small, the last of considerable size) ; Glinka, a station only, sixteen and three quarters; Litvinovitchi, a trifling village, thirteen and a half ; Voronovtchina, a » ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. I37 Station, nineteen and three quarters; Tchetcherst, a large village, twelve ; Shepotovitchi, sixteen and a quarter ; Osbina, sixteen (stations), and Kos- toukovka, a small village, twelve and a half. On Tuesday we reached the under-mentioned places ; Gomel, a considerable village, the property of Count Razumofskii. This is not a post-station, but it contains an inn, at which we stopped, and had some tea ; Novo Belitza, a town with a Greek church, and about seven hundred inhabitants, nineteen versts and a half; Pesostnaja Buda, a village, nineteen and a half; Dobryanka, a sta- tion in the government of Tchernigof, twenty and a quarter ; Drozdovitza, a village, seventeen ; Gorodnya, a village, fifteen ; Siednef; a village] twenty-seven ; Tchernigof, twenty-five, the capital of the government of Tchemigof, a very ancient town, supposed to be at least as old as Kief. It has a cathedral (built of stone in the eleventh century), another church of wood, and a monas- tery, within the enclosure of which is situated the archiepiscopal palace, consisting of two stories ; there are also in the town two convents, eight other churches, with a school and gymnasium, dependent upon the university of Kharkof, and in which there are professors of mathematics, natural history, philosophy, and of the Russian, Latin, German, and French languages. Tcher- nigof, besides, contains several large markets; and an archbishop always resides here. From this place we reached, at twenty-six versts, the village Krasnoe ; next passed through Tchemer, J i t t II 11 138 JOURNEY FROM a village ; and, finally, we arrived, as before men- tioned, at Cozaletz, our last stage being twenty- two versts, and that immediately preceding it twenty-seven. Since yesterday morning we have been travelling in Little Russia ; and the appear- ance of the country is very different from that which we observed during the early part of our journey. Situated in a district, the soil and cli- mate of which are such as to render the cultiva- tion of corn a general employment, the houses now seen are, therefore, no longer roofed with woody but thatched with straw. We noticed, from time to time, many windmills, of rude con- struction, with six vanes, — another indication as to the produce of the surrounding country. The forests here also are of a different kind, being chiefly oak, of which magnificent specimens fre- quently appeared ; and to several of them hol- lowed trunks of trees were affixed at a great height, for the purpose of collecting honey, which forms a considerable article of exportation from Russia. These wooden bee-hives are con- structed by the peasants who reside near the spot ; but the seigneur claims a tithe of the honey which may be found in them. About this part, also, grows the timber employed in building the Russian navy, which is conveyed, by means of the Dnieper, to the Black Sea. There are now orchards adjoining the log-houses; which latter being plastered over and washed white or yellow, with the thatched roofs already alluded to, present a very great resemblance to the cot- i ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 1.39 tages of our own country, and are much more pleasing to the eye (at least to that of an English- man). But it must be remembered, that, although we have only been absent from St. Petersburg a few days, yet we have advanced many hundred miles to the south of that city, which is sufficient to explain the changes I am mentioning. We also passed yesterday part of what are called the " Steppes : " these are immense districts, nearly or perfectly flat. Nothing is to be discerned but sky and plain, except, indeed, when a straggling tree or two, or some clusters of tumuli, or barrows, ap- pear, and in a slight degree break the wearisome monotony which reigns in these vast and solitary regions. There are a great many tumuli about the " Steppes ** in this neighbourhood, raised, no doubt, by the Tartars ; as, when opened, they have been found to contain human bones, inter- mingled with ornaments of known Tartar origin ; though in many cases, after a careful examination, nothing whatever could be discovered except the earth of which they were composed. The purposes to which they were appropriated by their founders may admit of some question. That they were places of sepulture is proved by the bones found in them ; but that they were also otherwise employed cannot, I think, be doubted. The Tartars were of wandering ha- bits, living in tents, and remaining in one place only until the surrounding pasture was con- sumed, and then removing, with their flocks and herds, in search of greater abundance elsewhere. I H 140 JOURNEY FROM It is reasonable, therefore, to suppose, that these tumuU are found where Tartar encampments formerly existed, and that such of those people who died in the course of nature, or were killed by their enemies, found a lasting repose on the spot where their wandering career had termi- nated ; while their surviving friends erected the rude mausolea which now attract the attention of the traveller through districts otherwise devoid of interest* The level nature, however, of the country being such as to require places of ob- servation, from which its inhabitants might be able to distinguish the approach of their enemies at a distance, it is probable that the structures in question might also be employed for that pur- pose, as well as for lighting beacons upon them ; for both of which uses they would serve admir- ably. But whatever may have been their origin, or the objects of their construction, an occurrence of yesterday evening has given me good reason to remember the " Steppes." The night had already set in, and a snow-storm with wind (a serious thing under such circumstances) arising, the drivers soon lost their way, having turned to the right, as we afterwards found, instead of to the left, all traces of the road being obHterated by the uniform covering of* the snow. We were not aware of the mistake, nor were the drivers themselves conscious of it, until, perhaps fortu- nately, the horses of the Count's carriage, which always took the lead, fell into a deep hole filled with snow ; and shortly afterwards the same ac- \ I I ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 141 cident happened to those in our calash, and which, in consequence, was nearly overturned. Our progress being thus unexpectedly arrested, the servants instantly jumped down ; the Count got out of his carriage, and Mr. S and I im- mediately followed his example. We were on heaps of drifted snow and ice, which, however, presented a more level surface than did the earth beneath, as I sunk into a hole, nearly up to my middle, while attempting to reconnoitre the situ- ation we were in. For some time it was im- possible to move the vehicles; and, from the perfect ignorance in which we were of our present situation, we knew not in what direction to steer; and thus no prospect presented itself but that of remaining where we were, until break of day might enable us to discern our road, — a state of affairs by no means the most pleasant to contemplate, as frequently, under such circum- stances, parties like ours become frozen to death.* The carriages were now left alone, while the ser- vants and drivers separated in different directions, under the hope of being able to discover the road from which we had deviated ; and, contrary to our most sanguine expectations, this was, after only a short time, effected by one of the former ; and when once regained, its continuation could still « Only last winter (1828), while at Odessa, I was informed that 6000 Turkish prisoners of war were frozen to death aA well as the Kozaks who were escorting them on the « Steppes," in the neighbourhood of Kief, while proceeding to the place which had been selected for their detention during their stay in Russia. U2 JOURNEY FROM be traced. We now, with redoubled energy, endeavoured to extricate the carriages from their perilous situations, which proved a task of con- siderable difficulty : at last, however, it was ac- complished ; when, after a delay not much ex- ceeding an hour from the time of the accident first happening, we once more carefully and slowly resumed our route. At Cozaletz we found the accommodations at the inn and post- house of the most miserable descrij)tion. There was a bed certainly ; upon which, of course, it was proposed that the Countess should rest ; but upon examination it appeared so extremely filthy, that Her Ladyship declined its use, and preferred occupying her own close carriage as it stood in the inn-yard, — thus passing the night, though the temperature was several degrees below zero. As for Mr. S and myself; there being no room for us in the inn, we were obliged to seek quar- ters elsewhere, and were lucky ertough to procure a lodging in a small house in the vicinity, where, as usual, our shoobs and cloaks formed our only beds. - The reader is requested to compare the fore- going and following account of an actual journey in Russia, performed, a few weeks afler the de- parture of Dr. Granville from St. Petersburg, by one of the richest noblemen in that empire and his suite, — during which, numerous privations and inconveniences were experienced by all, — with the following quotations from two of the first pages in " St. Petersburg," and then say whe- \ mm ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 143 ther the statements of Drs. Clarke and Lyall, with those of other English travellers, are not still worthy of credit ; and whether the charge of exaggeration and untruth, which has been, to say the least of it, uncourteously brought against them, is not unfounded, and unwarranted by the slight personal experience which the author of that work has had of travelling in Russia : nor does it appear to me to be in the best taste to strain every nerve for the purpose of paying un- deserved compliments to Russia, at the ejcpense of England : — " A journey to Russia, even in this wandering age, is not undertaken, for the first time, with the same light heart with which the gay and thoughtless leap into the britshka that is to land them safely at the Hotel de Rivoli, or at some other equally extravagant establishment in that Babylon of pleasures, Paris. English travellers^ who have favoured us with an account of their visits to that northern country, have taken care to prevent all siich pleasing impressions. As for myself; I confess, that, on reading Clarke and Lyall, and other accounts of Russia published in England, I felt almost frightened at the idea of having to encounter such an interminable series of privations and discomforts as the journey in contemplation was about to entail upon me, ac- cording to the testimony of these two writers. " « Mercy upon me!' I exclaimed, afler closing the ponderous quarto of the late worthy pro- fessor of mineralogy, and the lighter pages of -[ ■.i \i \ 144 JOURNEY FROM the author of * The Character of the Russians.* < Mercy on me ! I am to hejleecedy cheated^ and laughed at : I shall lie mthout a bed, starve on black bread, and swarm with vemiin* — • There is no cJiance of seeing a handsome woman : the gen- tlemen are all ignoramuses, and the common people brutes : the government is despotic, and the police troublesome* '* My own opinion, I confess most candidly, is that all the statements here made ironically are literally and bond fide true, with the exception of that which denounces all the gentlemen as ignoramuses • ; and I trust my readers will be of the same opinion, on remembering that my assertions and descriptions are in unison with those of almost every writer on the subject Wednesday, Feb. 20th. — We rose about halt past six, and, having quickly dressed, joined the Count and Countess at the inn, whom we found already waiting for us. Having breakfasted, we speedily arranged our carriages, and before eight o'clock were once more on the road. After pro- ceeding twenty-seven versts, we arrived at Semi- polki, a village ; after twenty-eight further, Bro- vari, also a village ; beyond which, at twenty versts, appeared Kief, the capital of the govern- ment of the same name, situated upon the Dnieper. * We are informed by the author of " St. Petersburg/' that, " even among people of rank and independent fortune,** he actually " found ajeto who had cultivated science for its own sake, and the enjoyments it procures ! " — St. Peters- burg, vol. ii. p. 104. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 145 The date of its foundation is uncertain, but is supposed to have been before the Christian era. It was formerly the metropolis of the Russian empire : from hence, in 1156, the seat of govern- ment was transferred to Vladimir ; at an after period it was removed to Moskow, and Peter the Great finally established it at St. Petersburg. We reached Kief about two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped there about three hours and a half! As soon as we had dined, Mr. S and I hired a sledge, and visited the most interesting parts of the town. Kief is most picturesquely and ro- mantically situated, being built upon several high hills, and, strictly speaking, consists of three towns ; namely, the fortress of Petchersk, with its fauxbourg, Old Kief, and the Podole. Each of the three towns has its own fortifications. The fortress of Petchersk is called also the New Fort : it is constructed upon a mountain towards the south, and encloses the barracks of the gar- rison, the magazines, arsenals, houses of the offi- cers, and several churches ; among which that of St. Nicholas is the most worthy of inspection. Withm the precincts of the fortress are also the renowned Petcherskoi monastery and catacombs; which latter can only be visited in a morning by leave obtained for that purpose at the fortress, and which, therefore, we were prevented from seeing; but they have been described minutely both by Bishop James and Dr. Lyall. With re- spect to the pretended bodies of saints shown in them, a gentleman, whom I met at Odessa, and j W ■^ * 7 14G JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 147 f) (1 who had been favoured with a sight of them a lew years ago, in company with an Enghsh phy- sician, informed me, that neither the doctor nor he beheved that they ever had been the bodies of men, but had been manufactured of suitable materials, for the sake of imposing upon the ere- dulous and slavish devotees, who annually arrive ; in the course of their pilgrimages, at Kief. Here are *also shown, according to Lyall, a great number of odoriferous heads, and one of the children which was murdered by Herod's orders, and brought to Jerusalem ! Old Kief is situated upon another height towards the north : it is for- tified in a manner corresponding to the moun- tainous nature of the ground upon which it stands, and is furnished with outworks. It contains eleven churches ; of which that of St Sophia, founded in 1037, is remarkable for its architec- tural peculiarities. The majority of the houses m Old Kief belong either to this church or to the neighbouring convent of St. Michael. The Podole is situated in the plain on the banks of the Dnieper, at the foot of the preceding division of the town : it contains numerous churches, monasteries, and convents, and the university, which is superintended by the Archbishop of Kief. The three towns of which Kief is com- posed contain conjointly, according to Vsevoloj- skii, 32 churches (omitting those belonging to the convents and monasteries), 500 shops, 4000 houses, and a population of about 30,000 souls : Dr. Lyall, however, thinks that the number ot I inhabitants in Kief does not amount to 20,000 ; and, knowing how little credit is to be given to Russian authorities of any kind, I am inclined to regard his opinion as the most correct : indeed, I consider it but justice to add, that many of his statements, with regard to Russia and the Rus- sians, / know to be true ; and I have had no reason whatever to doubt that the rest are equally so. At half-past five we once more set off, succes- sively passing through the following places, at the under-mentioned distances; namely, at twenty versts, Veta, a village ; sixteen, Vasilkof, a small town ; twenty-eight, Grebenskii, a village ; and at sixteen and a half, Biela Tserkof, a village be- longing to the Countess Branitskii, a native of Poland, said to be one of the richest ladies in Russia, possessing, according to report, 80,000 slaves, which may be calculated to produce a revenue of about 80,000/. sterling, supposing that the obroc or head tax only is received ; but I was told that Her Ladyship prefers exacting the la- bour of her serfs instead, and if so, the annual amount may be rated at much more. The Countess was one of the most intimate friends of the Empress Catharine the Second ; and is described as being fond of money, and as always keeping an immense sum, in specie and notes, secreted about various parts of her mansion. The following anecdote was related to me, in exemplification of this habit:—" A near relative, having occasion to borrow a very large sum of money, which it was well known he had the c^- L 2 \ f Mi0^ 148 JOURNEY FROM h \ portunity of safely and advantageously investing, asked her whether she could conveniently raise, at a short notice, the sum in question. Upon which she replied, after a pause, that she thought it was in her power to do so ; and giving him, at the same time, a bunch of keys, desired that he would open some secret places near where they were seated, and examine their contents ; having done which, he found more than the necessary amount." This reputation, however, of pos- sessing immense quantities of ready money had nearly, during the conspiracy of 1825, cost the Countess her life ; a Colonel , as I was informed, having advanced towards Biela Tser- kof, with his regiment, for the purpose of murdering Her Ladyship and carrying off her accumulated treasures, being only prevented from executing his diabolical intention by the arrival of a superior military force, by which he was arrested. From another quarter I have heard, that the Emperor, owing to his jealousy of those nobles whose immense possessions have, as a matter of course, invested them with corres- ponding influence, has refused to allow Her Lady- ship the acquisition of any further territorial pro- perty, which comprises the peasants resident upon it ; and this account, if correct, will furnish a plain reason for her abundance of unemployed capital. We reached this place about one o'clock a.m., having proceeded, during the last stage, without bells to the poles of the carriages, which are ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 149 I . usual in Russian posting, that we might not dis- turb the Countess, who, it was known, had re- tired to rest. Our horses for the last two days were of a larger kind and better breed : they were small and bad at St. Petersburg, and be- came progressively worse until the day before yesterday, when they were of so puny and wretched a description, that they could scarcely draw the carriages. We were told that, as we continued our progress to the southward, they would improve still farther. For the last few days we observed the carts of the natives drawn by oxen of a good size, and well fed ; forming a striking contrast with those diminutive crea- tures which we had seen, from time to time, after our departure from the northern capital. We withdrew to our places of repose about three o'clock; but here, as on the road, no proper beds were to be procured by myself or compa- nion. I had a bedstead, a mattress, a pillow, and one sheet, and the rest I was obliged to supply with my shoob, my cloaks, or any thing else that appeared at all eligible for the purpose. I was actually, in some respects, nearly as badly accommodated in this mansion of opulence as at many of the stations on the road ; and the ar- rangements made for my companion were upon the same scale of excellence. However, sleep soon closed our eyes, and made us forget the dissatisfaction which we could not but feel at being no better attended to. Thursday, Feb. 21st. — After having break- L 3 I \ 150 JOURNEY FROM fasted, I had an opportunity of examining the house, &c. It is composed of two separate buildings of one story high, at right angles to each other, on two sides of a court opening to the road. Some of the rooms are papered, but the wood-work throughout is merely white- washed : the kitchen is at some distance. The Countess Branitskii occupied one building; while Count Vorontzof and suite, with other visiters, among whom were the Count and Countess Boleslas Pototskii, Count Oliza, and Baron Franck (formerly aide-de-camp to Count Vo- rontzof), were lodged in the other. Dinner being announced, we had to cross the court to reach the dining-room, and all the dishes had to be carried through the street (as we should say in England) befoie reaching the table; from which it will be seen the arrangements were by no means of the most convenient description. The intendant de la maison was here called the Marshal; and a truly pompous fellow we found the individual who held that office during our stay at Biela Tserkof- Friday, Feb. 22d. — Count VorontzJof having informed me this morning that Count Branitskii had ordered preparations to be made for a wolf hunt to-day, by way of amusing the different visiters sojourning at Biela Tserkof, I felt great pleasure at the prospect of once in my life witnessing such a scene. About noon, therefore. Counts Branitskii and Oliza, Baron Franck, Mr. and I, set off in two sledges (one of which ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 151 ' had six horses) to a small forest about ten versts tlistant, where wolves are usually found. We were warmly clad, furnished with our high fur boots, and each aimed with a double-barrelled gun. We almost flew in the sledges, and after a short period arrived at the appointed ground, when boldli/ taking our stations knee-deep in snow, we made ready and awaited in breathless anxiety the appearance of the wolves;— but none were to be found. It was supposed that they must have escaped unnoticed by the huntsmen the previous night during the preparations which were made for their detention. After waiting until our patience was exhausted, we retreated from the bloodless scene and returned to Biela Tserkof just in time for dinner. But although our excursion only ended in a hunt for wolves instead of the wolf hunt we had anticipated, and I cannot therefore say that I have been present at the latter, yet I have seen all the preparations for one ; the plan upon which it is conducted, in this part of Russia, being as follows : — A part of some wood, where it is known there are wolves, (a fact ascertained by the huntsmen imitating their cries, which those animals, if any happen to be within hearing, answer,) is enclosed the night preceding the hunt with strong rope nets about seven feet in height, supported by stakes driven into the ground, without, if pos- sible, at all disturbing the wolves. On the following morning the sportsmen enter this accompanied by the huntsmen and dogs,, and L 4 I \ 15^2 JOURNEY FROM placing themselves with their backs near and towards the netting, in a semicircle about thirty feet asunder, present their pieces in one direction to avoid shooting each other. The huntsmen, now closely followed by the yelling and bark- ing dogs, ride all over the enclosed space, shouting and blowing short horns; and their united efforts rouse the wolves from their dens and drive them towards the sportsmen, wlio as they endeavour to escape fire at them. The charges used upon the present occasion con- tained about sixteen swan-shot in each, so that it is rather a dangerous amusement to the parties concerned unless they are sufficiently careful. Thursday, Feb. '2Sth. — The fineness of the weather induced us this morning to drive over to Alexandria, the summer residence of the Countess Branitskii, distant only a few versts from Biela Tserkof. It contains several detached buildings, miscalled pavilions, situated in an extensive garden, which also contains large green-houses and hot-houses, with an extensive oranoery. The grounds in summer are said to be exceedingly beautiful, and they may be so for Russia ; but at the time of our visit their winter garb rendered them cheerless and unin- teresting except in reference to a circumstance which I shall here mention. The conspiracy which broke out upon the accession of the present Emperor to the throne of Russia had been in existence for some time previous to that event, and had for its object, it is said, not only I ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 15S the murder of the Emperor Alexander, but also that of every member of the Imperial family ; and I have been informed that the conspirators being aware the former would stop at Alex- andria during his journey to the south of the empire, had actually fixed upon this place as the scene of his intended assassination. His Majesty, however, arrived before their plans were quite matured, and that circumstance alone pre- vented the consummation of the horrid project. I have also been informed, during my residence in Odessa, by an individual who was about the person of the late autocrat, that the latter was perfectly aware as to conspiracies against his life being in existence ; and that his visit of in- spection to the southern provinces of Russia was planned and undertaken for the sole purpose of affording him a plausible excuse for leaving the capital, as the most probable means of escaping the impending danger. I have, moreover, been assured that he had purchased a large extent of territory in the Tauride, where he had com- menced building, with the intention of ab- dicating the throne in favour of his brother Nicholas, and of passing the remainder of his days there as a private individual in retirement; and that the painful conviction that, notwith- standing all he had done for Russia, he should fall the victim of assassination, produced such an effect upon his health as to form the predis- posing cause of the disease which terminated his existence. When it was first known in England 154 JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 155 \\^ that the Emperor Alexander was dead, I well re- member the sensation excited in consequence, from the belief (which with some persons has not subsided even yet) that he had been made away with. Nor need we be astonished at such an inference being very generally drawn, when we recollect the melancholy fact that both the father and the grandfather of Alexander suf- fered violent deaths ; and it would appear that after experiencing in anticipation the horrors of a similar fate he only escaped the sad reality in the earlier but less dreadful close to his career, which was afforded by the friendly fever of which he died at Taganroc, Sir James Wylie, his medical attendant, being with him at the time. I have heard Sir James severely censured in Russia for having " let the Emperor die,'* but without the slightest foundation in justice; since it is an acknowledged fact, tliat His Majesty refused to submit to the remedial means recom- mended by that gentleman until it was too late. But it is said the latter " ought to have com- pelled the Emperor" to do what was proper and necessary. My own experience of Russia enables me to observe in reply, that if the Emperor were not inclined to follow the advice of his medical attendant, the latter could not pretend to " comper* him to do so : such a proceeding might have been misinterpreted by His Majesty (particularly under the then existing circum- stances^; and Sir James might have speedily found himself stripped of his stars and his crosses, ' his estates and his appointments, and on the high road to Siberia and the mines. When Count Vorontzof heard of the dangerous illness of the late Emperor, he immediately sent his own phy- sician, my predecessor, to Taganroc: but he arrived there only after His Imperial Majesty's decease ; and, of course, his journey was fruit- less. Sunday, March 3d.— Count Vorontzof having leflBielaTserkofyesterdayforMoshney,an estate belonging to the family, at no great distance, with the intention of overtaking the Countess afler- wards on the road. Her Ladyship and suite, this morning early, recommenced their journey to- wards Odessa. The weather, at starting, was clear and frosty, and the roads, in consequence, tolerably good ; an advantage we had not an- ticipated, as the day preceding a rapid thaw having occurred, had led us to entertain the most serious apprehensions respecting their condition. We first returned to Grebenskii, from which place we proceeded almost in an opposite direction ; and having successively reached the post-stations and villages Krasnoe, Vincentovka, and Kara- petze, arrived at Boguslaf, a district town, situ- ated upon the river Rossa, where we dined ; and when we were on the point of taking our de- parture, the master of police, who had heard of the Countess's arrival, came to pay his respects to Her Ladyship. About five o'clock p. m. we left Boguslaf, and at eighteen versts entered Moska- lenskaza, a small village ; at eighteen versts fur- I 15G JOURNEY FROM ther another and larger village, called Korsun, appeared ; after which, upon accomplishing the next station of twenty-one versts and a quarter, our attention was attracted by Gorodetze, a con- siderable village, the property of Count Voront- zof. Each of these places have post-stations, at the two former of which we changed horses ; and all the towns or villages we have passed through to-day, with the exception of Vincentovka and Korsun, are the property of the Countess Bra- nitskii. We reached Gorodetze about ten o'clock at night, and found every thing in readiness for us. The roads in the middle of the day were exceedingly bad, occasioned by the influence of the sun, which had, in some places, so completely thawed the snow, that the ground appeared in patches, over which our sledge-armed carriages were with difficulty dragged; but towards the evening they again improved in condition from the frost which prevailed as soon as the sun had vanished beneath the horizon. During all the foimer part of this day our journey, from the circumstance just mentioned, was of the most unpleasant description, so that we could not en- joy the view of the country through which we were passing, and which was exceedingly beau- tiful, often most picturesquely diversified by ex- tensive hills and dales, and occasionally enriched with abundance of wood. The postilions were generally much cleaner and more comely-look- ing than those we had hitherto had : the only women we saw were Jewesses, distinguished by ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 157 s> their white linen caps, with a loop of red riband or cloth placed in front. The produce of the neighbouring country is grain. Upon our ar- rival at Gorodetze, Her Ladyship found a letter from the Count, announcing his intention of joining us the following morning ; and having taken tea, we soon retired to rest, when, for the first time since we left St. Petersburg, I had the luxury of a clean bed. Monday, March 4th. — Gorodetze is one of the prettiest villages I had yet seen in Russia, and seems to be kept in good order. The Count has established a Lancasterian school here, at which all who choose are instructed, gratuitously, in reading and writing. The master is a priest, who formerly kept a school of his own in the church ; his scholars, however, were but few, and he was very inadequately remunerated for his trouble : now the Count pays him a salary, and the pupils receive their instruction gratis. His Excellency, also, with the view of encourag- ing Jews to settle in his village, among whom alone, in this part of the country, is industry found to any extent, advanced to every indivi- dual of that persuasion, who wished it, five hun- dred roubles, to build himself a house after his own fashion ; and several have availed themselves of the loan. His Excellency has also erected a good dwelling for an apothecary, whose labora- tory and shop I was requested to inspect. The latter has but a poor collection of medicinals, and those not such as I should pronounce the h inH 158 JOURNEY FROM most efficacious. About half past eleven Count Vorontzof arrived, and shortly afterwards I ac- companied him on a visit to the Lancasterian school. The boys went through the usual routine, to show the method adopted in their tuition; and after His Excellency had expressed the ap- probation which he felt at the state in which the school appeared, we took our leave, and rejoined the Countess. About one o'clock a good dinner was served up, to which we did ample justice; and soon after three were once more upon the road ; our number being now increased by the arrival of Baron Franck and Mr. , an English gentleman, who had been for some years employed upon one of His Excellency's estates in capacity of engineer, but who has since entered into the Russian diplomatic service. After a tedious stage of thirty-one versts we reached a large village named Shpola, the population of which consists almost entirely of Jews ; and at a farther distance of twenty-eight versts and a half, Novomirgorod. This is a crown village, inhabited entirely by soldiers, being one of the military colonies. It is in the government of Cherson ; and here, therefore, the jurisdiction of Count Vorontzof, as Governor-general of New Russia, commences: such being the pompous title which has, of late years, been bestowed upon the territory comprehended in the govern- ments of Cherson, Ekaterinoslaf, and theTauride. After proceeding thirty-one versts further, we reached Viska, another military \dllage ; at twenty. I it ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 159 four and a half, Elisavetgrad, a district town ; at twenty-one and a half, Kompanievka ; and at eighteen, Souhakleia ; the two latter being merely villages and post-stations. We arrived at Souha- kleia about seven o'clock in the morning of Tuesday, March 5th, having travelled, nearly without intermission, during the whole night Here we found General Leon Narischkine, who had reached this place only a short time before us, and was also on his route to Odessa. From the dilapidated and forlorn appearance of the post-house, and being ignorant whether the pro- visions usually contained in our portable kitchen had been all consumed or not, I was for some time in doubt if we should be able to procure any kind of refreshment at this place, and re- mained seated in the carriage, until 1 received a summons announcing breakfast to be ready. I then joined the distinguished party in the post- house, and partook of the repast provided ; which the disgustingly filthy state of the articles we were compelled to employ would have prevented tra- vellers with appetites less keen than our own from tasting. Such being the accommodations which Souhakleia afforded, we felt no desire to remain there any longer than was absolutely ne- cessary, and accordingly, as soon as the horses were in readiness, we regained our carriages, and recommenced our journey. A cold and miserable stage of eighteen versts brought us to Gromokleievskaia, and a second, of sixteen and a half, to Maximovka. This was another deplor- I 160 JOURNEY FROM able post-station, the best room of which was about nine feet square, the floor the earth, the walls plastered inside with clay and very damp, while on either side appeared a miserable pallet ; the tout ensemble presentinj]^ a picture of abject poverty, wretchedness, and filth. However, in this cheerless cabin we made a tolerably good dinner upon some dishes prepared by our own cook from materials brought with us, and consi- dered ourselves exceedingly lucky in being so well supplied ; for had we not carried provisions with us, we certainly should have met with no- thing here better than black bread, and I have every reason for believing not even that. It was now announced that Baron Franck, who liad travelled with Mr. in advance, for the purpose of acting as courier and ordering relays of horses for us, and was, consequently, in charge of the padaroshna, had unfortunately lost it upon the road. Had this accident happened yester- day, instead of to-day, it would have placed us in a most awkward predicament, as without a padaroshna no post-horses can be obtained, and we must have stopped where we were until a new one could have been procured from the governor of the nearest town; which would have occa- sioned much delay and inconvenience, and might have compelled us, in spite of the disbelief of the author of " St. Petersburg," to " lie without a bed, starve on black bread, and swarm with vermin ;" but as Count Vorontzof was now within the limits of his own government, he was ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 161 fortunately enabled to obviate all these annoy- ances by ordering horses himself. We reached this place about noon, having had a terrible journey during the whole of the morning. The snow and ice we had found nearly all thawed, and the roads occasionally reduced to mud ; in consequence of which our progress was fre- quently arrested. Where there was a good deal of water we could still glide through it, though at the expense of great exertion on the part of the horses ; but where the mud was stiffj we were often brought to a dead halt, and the car- riages could not be afterwards moved without the greatest difficulty. With respect to the ca- lash, Mr. S and I were frequently obliged to alight, and literally put our " shoulders to the wheel," while the postilions whipped the horses, and urged them to the utmost : in fact, the use of the sledges had been continued much too long ; and of this the Count at length became convinced, and accordingly ordered that the wheels should now be substituted for the sledge beds. The former had always travelled in ad^ vance of us, on the sledge of our courier, who, finding the roads in the miserable condition I have described, and which he imagined would render it impossible to proceed without them, had prudently remained here until our arrival, instead of carrying them on to another station. Some peasants were immediately sent for to re- move the sledge-beds, and mount the carriages upon their wheels. As this, however, would be M 162 JOURNEY FROM I the work of some hours, His Excellency did not choose to wait even for his own carriage being prepared, but determined upon setting off, with the Countess and the governess, in two small kibitkas which had formed part of our train from St Petersburg ; under the idea that it was pos- sible for the latter, being light, to be forced through the mud, though the heavy carriages in their present condition could not ; and in pur- suance of this resolution at about three o'clock their Excellencies left Maximovka with five horses to each kibitka; Mr. , furnished with a written order to the postmasters, in lieu of the lost padaroshna, having previously started in a telega, or light post-waggon, to act as courier, and have relays of horses in readiness for them at the different post-stations. After their departure we occupied ourselves in hurrying on the operations of our lazy workmen, and by about six o'clock, the various arrangements being completed, we also set off. The roads were soon found to be worse than they had been in the morning, indeed it would have been impossible for us to proceed as before equipped ; and even now our progress was but slow, the wheels being scarcely able to act. Shortly after, it became dark, and this added considerably to our diffi- culties. The Count's chariot with Her Lady- ship's maid, as well as a kibitka in which were two other female servants, had been despatched some time in advance : Baron Franck followed in another carriage j the calash which contained ■ i ' -iii^w ST. PETERSBURG TQ ODESSA. 163 Mr. S' and myself closing the rear. We had not, however, accomplished more than twelve versts when we found the chariot completely stuck fastinmud, the horses being unable to move it; the kibitka so broken as to be utterly unserviceable • and the women frightened in the extreme at the thoughts of being left alone on the road, while some other conveyance could be procured. We, therefore, determined upon taking them into our own calash, and to get on the outside ourselves- Mr. S accordingly occupying a seat in fronts and I mounting behind upon the luggage, we once more set off for the next station; pro- posing from thence to send further assistance to the Count's valet, who was left in charge of the chariot We had eight dismal versts to travel before arriving there, the road passing over several hills : it was intensely cold ; and a thick damp which rose from the ground soon made my clothes completely wet, as the necessity of holding constantiy with both hands, to avoid being jerked off, rendered me unable to cover myself with my shoob. I certainly feared at the time that a serious illness would have been tile consequence of this exposure^ but fortui natdy I experienced no ill effects whatever from it. At about eleven o'clock p.m. we reached the post-station Vodianoe; Mr.S--^/ however, in the hope of obtaining better acn commodations, directed the postilions to drive to the house of a Madame Laurer, which was nea^ athaiid^ :* l-:j 164 JOURNEY FROM I Being exceedingly fatigued on our arrival, and finding it doubtful whether there would be sufficient accommodations, I left the house at once and returned to the calash, in which, wrapping myself round with my shoob, I slept until morning; though necessarily in a most awkward position, being unable to extend my legs, owing to the luggage which was stowed within. The cold must have been several de- grees below zero ; and to render my situation more uncomfortable, a pane of glass belonging to the movable window in front had been acci- dentally broken the day before, yet I sustained no injury from passing the night in this manner; so often does it happen that when most ex- posed we suffer the least ; indeed my slumbers were only terminated by Mr. S , on the following morning, (Wednesday, March 6th,) coming to say that the horses had been sent for, and breakfast awaited us within doors. I now learned that the chariot had only just arrived, having remained on the road where we left it for a long time; the horses, including an extra pair sent from this station, eight in number, being unable to move it. While they were thus fruitlessly employed, a caravan happening to arrive on the spot, five pairs of oxen belonging to it were yoked to the carriage, which they succeeded in drawing out of the deep hole wherein it had sunk. Having breakfasted at about half past five we continued our route. In con- sequence of the intense cold which had pre- •I r ■■ ■ ■ ; ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 165 vailed all night, the roads, so recently covered with mud, were now frozen hard ; and although this circumstance rendered them exceedingly rough and uneven, yet their condition was, upon the whole, improved, and our progress facilitated by the change. Having travelled twenty-three versts, on reaching Veylandova, a post-station, we made an early lunch; some good bread was procured at the post-house, and cheese we had with us, which, added to part of a bottle of sherry found in one of the carriages, afforded an agreeable repast. Here we changed horses, and after another difficult stage of twenty-f bur versts arrived at Kandybina. This is nothing but a miserable post-station, where we found the Count and Countess stopped the preceding night; they, like us, not thinking it prudent to risk setting off again until the following dawn. The room which their Excellencies had occupied was scarcely habitable. It was but very imperfectly warmed; — the thawed snow found its way through the roof, and fell upon the middle of the floor ; while the only furniture consisted of a^ long dirty divan, upon which the Count and Countess, the governess, and General Leon Narischkine (who happened also to stay here), reclined until morning. Relying upon their ar^ rival at Nikolaief without delay, they had brought no provisions with them, nor could any be ob- tained at this place; and accordingly they left the comfortless hovel when morning appeared, without having partaken of any refreshment M S 166 JOURNEY FROM II ^1'. whatever from the preceding day at dinner; Such privations and inconveniences being ex- perienced even by the Governor General of New Russia and his lady, when journeying through his own governments, it will, perhaps, be believed that travellers of inferior rank and note are not exempt from hardships at least as serious and as numerous ; and, consequently, that Clarke, Lyall, and other " Efiglish'* writers^ while favouring us with an account of their travels in Russia, have neither exaggerated nor misrepresented those hardships, as a recent author would willingly have it supposed. We stopped at this station about a couple of hours from want of horses ; indeed we had to wait until the arrival of some, which were sent by the Count expressly for us : the chariot had not yet made its appearance ; but as I considered it my duty as soon as possible to overtake the Countess, who, from the statements received here, I apprehended might be again indisposed^ the horses were immediately put to the calash, in which Baron Franck and I set off, leaving Mr. S to wait for the chariot. A single stage only, of twenty-four versts, remained for us to perform before reaching Nikolaief, the longr wished-for resting-place ; but the roads were so exceedingly heavy that we did not enjoy that gratification till between six and seven in the evening, when upon entering the mansion of Admiral Greig, whither the postilions had beea ordered to proceed, we found that the Count ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 167 and Countess were also there, having safely arrived some hours previously. We were re- ceived by Captain Romanzof, one of the Ad- miral's aides-de-camp, an intelligent and agreeable young officer, from whom we experienced every friendly attention during our stay at Nikolaief; and shortly afterwards dinner was served up. The Admiral on ascertaining that we had finished this repast sent a most polite message, desiring our presence above, where we shortly afterwards had the honour of being introduced to him, and of passing the evening in his society. This^ was a pleasure I had for some time eagerly an- ticipated, from the very high encomiums uni- formly passed upon Admiral Greig, in various circles, during my stay at St. Petersburg ; and from his general reputation for talents, liberality, and condescension. My interview with His Excellency convinced me that report had not spoken too favourably : I found him to possess manners the most courteous, and a mind stored with information, even upon subjects in no way connected with his profession. He is Admiral- in-Chief of the Black Sea, and is considered a most able and experienced officer. But if Ad- miral Greig be an ornament to the Imperial naval service, the credit, it is well known, does not belong to Russia; he did not derive his information from Russians, nor his experience from a three months* cruise in the Baltic or the Black Sea. He is still a British subject^ was born of English parents at Cronstadt* and M 4f \ 168 JOURN£Y FKOM educated in England. " He afterwards went to the East Indies as a volunteer in the Company's service, and in the same capacity served in the British navy, so as to acquire a thorough know- ledge of navigation, and the duties of a naval officer.** His professional knowledge is there- fore, 1 need hardly observe, derived from Eng- land, and his liberal sentiments, it cannot be doubted, were drawn from the same source ; for had he been brought up in Russia, at a distance from his parents, he never could have imbibed them. In fact. Admiral Greig is a striking instance of what almost universally holds true in Russia ; namely, that when the duties of an im- portant office are ably and conscientiously dis- charged, the reason for conduct so creditable and so extraordinary in that country is to be found in the appointment being held either by a foreigner, or by one of foreign extraction, and very frequently by an Englishman. The above well-merited but imperfect tribute to the high character of the most distinguished resident in Nikolaief being paid, some observations upon the town itself may not be misplaced. Nikolaief is situated in a fertile plain at the confluence of the rivers Ingoul and Boug. Its first found- ations were laid in 1791. In 1792 it received the particular attention of Prince Potyemkin, and in con?equence 450 houses were speedily raised. Scarcely any additions were made to these in the following year ; but by the end of 1791i their number had increased under the ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 169 auspices of Admiral Mordvinof to 700; and about the same time, also, Nikolaief was materially raised in importance by the admiralty of Cher- son being removed thither. It is divided into quarters, and the streets are regularly laid out. The buildings most worthy of notice are, the church, a handsome structure ; the Town Hall, which has a neat colonnade on each side, one of them serving for the Exchange ; and the Admiralty, situated in the upper part of the town, upon the Ingoul, forming a large enclosed square. Nikolaief has two very great disad- vantages ; the first being the absence of good water, for which indispensable article the inha- bitants are obliged to send a distance of two versts from the town ; and the other arises from the scarcity, and consequently the high price of fuel, hardly a tree appearing in all the sur- rounding country. Thursday, March 7th. — About half-past seven this morning we sat down to an excellent break- fast in the English fashion, and about nine o'clock took leave of Admiral Greig, and proceeded on our journey. Our train, which presented a curious melange, was as follows: first, two mounted gendarmes as a guard of honour; these were followed by the Count and Countess in an open calash of Admiral Greig*s, drawn by four horses ; another open calash and four, containing the governess and the Countess's maid next ap- peared ; then came the secretary and the physi- cian in a droshki ; and, finally, in a similar vehi- I I 170 JOURNEY FROM cle, two female servants: — thus arranged, we pro- ceeded to the Boug, a distance of five versts ; and I have often since amused my self with imagining the amazement such a cavalcade would liave produced in London. Fears had been enter- tained as to the practicabiHty of passing this river, which at the point where we proposed to cross is of great width; and the Admiral's aide-de- camp expressed his positive opinion that it would be impossible to do so two days from that time^ in consequence of a rapid thaw having taken place. Owing to these doubts. Count Voront- zofs carriages had all been sent soon after our arrival at Nikolaief to the river's side ; but the state of the ice was such, that it was not then deemed advisable to attempt taking them over ; more particularly as the frost had again returned with the evening, and thus afforded the prospect of a safer passage at the expiration of a few hours' delay. The carriages were therefore left on the bank of the Boug, during the night, under a guard, and early in the morning, the ice being still too weak to allow the employment of horses, were dragged over by men with ropes, all arriv- ing safely on the opposite side. Only two days previously, while a postilion was crossing the river near this place, in a paraclodnia (a kind of rude cart in which the Russians travel), with three horses, the ice gave way, when himself and the horses disappeared, and were drowned. This was mentioned just upon our reaching the Boug ; and the intelligence, whether well-timed ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 171 or ill-timed, was certainly at that moment not the most agreeable. Having proceeded to the edge of the river, we left the carriages, and various necessary prepar- ations being completed, first the Countess, placed in a sledge to which ropes were attached, was drawn over the ice by men in perfect safety; next the other females of our party followed in a similar manner; then Count Vorontzof; Mr. S , and I walked across. The ice cracked fre- quently under us, and was so very rotten that our feet repeatedly penetrated some depth into it ; however we gained the other side without the slightest accident, and now congratulated our- selves on having passed one of the greatest ob- stacles to our speedily reaching Odessa. Baron Franck and Mr. had been obliged to re^ main at the Admiral's for want of horses. Upon reaching the post-house at Korinikha, a village on the opposite side of the Boug, we found our own travelling carriages in waiting, and should at once have set off, but the cook had not yet arrived ; and as our comforts during the journey depended too materially upon his presence to admit for a moment the thought of leaving him behind, (a fact, by-the-bye, of which theindivi- dual in question, a Frenchman, proved upon more than one occasion that he was perfectly aware,) we were thus delayed for about half an hour, when he made his appearance. From this place, after an uninterrupted journey of twenty- seven versts, we reached Jantschokrak, a posti il 172 JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 173 station, where we changed horses : from hence, to the next station, Sassitskaya, where we also changed horses, is a distance of twenty-two versts. This is merely a miserable post-station, not to be found in the grand map of Russia, published by the Etat Major at St. Petersburg. Here, on ob- serving by the road-side a heap of small stones upon which was placed a curiously shaped double cross, I requested my companion to enquire on what occasion this simple memorial had been erected, when he was informed that its object was to distinguish the spot where a man had been buried, who died of the plague in the year 1812. After leaving Sassitskaya the roads were in the worst possible condition : mud, water, ice with large and deep fissures in it, and loose stones, combined in rendering our progress diffi- cult, and by no means unattended with danger ; and during the ascent and descent of three large, hills, which presented themselves, very mal d propoSj in this part of our journey, I own I felt considerable anxiety as to the result. Having passed these hills, we had other and scarcely less important obstacles to encounter, occasioned by the unevenness of the country, and the season at which we travelled. Down the valleys, directly across our road, rushed swollen and rapid torrents, formed by the melted snow from the surrounding heights, in many places reaching up to the horses* bellies ; and several instances even occurred where the water had risen a foot or two above the bridges and was pouring over their walls. The situation of travellers, under such circum- stances, is, of course, hazardous in the extreme ; for should a carriage, during its passage through these torrents, by any accident be overturned, it is immediately borne away by the stream, and the chance of escaping a watery grave is slight in- deed. One of the most celebrated Russian generals lost his life in this way ; and only the spring before we passed these valleys the telega, in which were two men conveying the post, was upset and hurled down the torrent : one of them escaped miraculously, but his less fortunate com- panion,with the horses, was drowned, and neither they nor the mails were afterwards seen. It is indeed most dangerous to travel at the breaking up of the frost, but by personal experience alone can any adequate idea on the subject be acquired. Even when at length the ground be- came tolerably level, the roads were, for a distance of two versts, at least a foot under water. Having however toiled through twenty-two versts, we reached Coblif ka, a village belonging to General Cobley, an Englishman, who has been for many years in the Russian service. The General was then in another part of the country ; nevertheless we passed the night at his house, arriving there about eight o'clock in the evening, having tra- velled only three stages during the day ; a fact in itself sufficiently proving the terrible state of the roads. A good dinner was soon ready for us, of which we were in considerable need ; and at an early hour we retired to bed, heartily tired and worn out. 1 'A 174 JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG, ETC, Friday, March 8th. — Notwithstanding the fatigues of yesterday we were up this morning about half past five, and having breakfasted, set oflf again before six. The roads were of the same description as yesterday ; and in many of the valleys I preferred passing on foot through the water to incurring the risk of being overturned in the calash, which, from the dreadful holes in the half-melted ice, appeared, upon these occa- sions, to be every minute inevitable. Mr. S followed my example ; and notwithstanding the danger of the experiment (for it was sometimes extremely difficult to preserve our footing), neither of us could refrain from repeated laughter at the grotesque appearance the other presented while wading in our great fur boots through the flood. At twenty-eight versts we reached Dophinovka, a post-station merely; and here we first got a sight of the Black Sea. After changing horses, and travelling eighteen versts further, the much desired Odessa at length appeared. About a verst from the town, the master of the police, attended by his Kozak, was in waiting, who, stopping the Count's carriage, handed to His Excellency, as Governor General, the police report ; he then rode on in front of our train ; and about a quarter of an hour afterwards, nearly jolted to death from the miserable state of the roads in the suburbs of the town, we completed this long and fatiguing journey, in which above two thousand post-horses had been employed, by ^riving safely at the mansion of the Governor General. 175 CHAP. IV. RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. ANCIENT HISTORY. SCYTHIANS. GREEKS. EXISTENCE OF A GREEK ESTABLISHMENT. — TURKS. HADGIBEY TAKING OF HADGIBEY. — MODERN HISTORY. FOUND- ATION OF ODESSA. NOT THE SITE OP ODESSUS. SLOW PROGRESS OF THE TOWN. — EMPEROR PAUL BE- STOWS HIS FAVOURS UPON IT. — ROGUERY OF THE PUBLIC OFFICERS. — ARRIVAL OF THE DUKE DE RICHE. LIEU AT ODESSA. PROGRESS 0» ODESSA FROM 1803 TO 1814 DEPARTURE OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU- APPOINTMENT OF COUNT LANGERON AS GOVERNOR GENERAL. FAITHLESS POLICY OF THE RUSSIAN GO- VERNMENT. — LANGUISHING CONDITION OF ODESSA IN CONSEQUENCE. NOMINATION OF COUNT MICHEL VO- RONTZOF AS GOVERNOR GENERAL PARTICULAR DE- SCRIPTIOM OF ODESSA HOSPITAL. CATHEDRAL STRADE. CHERSONA. RIBAS. RICHELIEU. THEATRE. NEW BOULEVARD. GOVERNOR GENERAL*S mew HOUSE— MINUTE DESCRIPTION OF. CRITIQUE UPON. MATERIALS SUPPLIED BY THE MICHATLOF PALACE OF ST. PETERSBURG. — INFAMOUS ROGUERY OP PUBLIC OFFICERS IN THE FORMATION OF THE ROADS. PLAGUE. DUST. — HEAT. — LETTER FROM ADMIRAL MORDVINOF TO THE PRESENT EMPEROR. — - ROGUERY OF ALL EM- PLOYES.— REASONS WHY SO LITTLE IMPROVEMENT TAKES PLACE IN RUSSIA. — CLIMATE OF ODESSA FROM THE OB- SERVATIONS OF A SERIES OF YEARS. POPULATION OF ODESSA FROM OFFICIAL RETURNS GOVERNMENT OF ODESSA MAGISTRATES POLICE. GENDARMERIE. REVENUES OF THE TOWN. PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS; ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH COMMERCE. — PORTS 176 RISE, f>ROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 177 OF ODESSA: — QUARANTINE PORT — MILITARY PORT. OFFICIAL DETAILS. — LIST OF IMPORTATIONS IN 1828. LIST OF EXPORTATIONS IN 1828. FIRST EMPLOY- MENT OF STEAM-VESSELS IN THE BLACK SEA. — STEAM- BOAT OF ODESSA — A FAILURE. — QUARANTINE, PAR- TICULAR DESCRIPTION OF. — BOARD OF HEALTH. — CUS- TOM-HOUSE.— AMOUNT OF DUTIES FOR A SERIES OF YEARS CLASSES OF MERCHANTS.— THE EXCHANGE. THE NEW EXCHANGE TRIBUNAL OF COMMERCE. — DEPUTATION OF COMMERCE BROKERS. BANK OF EX- CHANGE.— DISCOUNT BANK. — CHAMBERS OF INSURANCE. — IMPERIAL CHAMBER OF INSURANCE. — GRECO-RUSSIAN CHAMBER OF INSURANCE. — FIRE INSURANCE COMPANY. — PROPOSED DUTCH FACTORY AT ODESSA TO TRADE TO INDIA OVER-LAND. — DESIGNS OF RUSSIA UPON OUR INDIAN POSSESSIONS. — ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH THE GOVERNMENT. — FORTRESS. — GARRISON. BARRACKS. — PRISON. — POLICE OFFICE. — COMMITTEE OF HEALTH. — POST OFFICE. — ESTABLISHMENTS CON- NECTED WITH RELIGION. — CATHEDRAL. — CATHOLIC CHURCH.— GREEK CHURCH. — RASCOLNIC's CHURCH.— JEWS* SYNAGOGUE.— GREEK BURYING GROUND. — JEWs' BURYING GROUND. — PLAGUE BURYING GROUND.— CHA- RITABLE ESTABLISHMENTS.— TOWN HOSPITAL. — BENE- VOLENT SOCIETY OF THE LADIES OF NEW RUSSIA. SOCIETY OF PRISON DISCIPLINE. — SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISH- MENTS. — MUSEUM. — IMPERIAL AGRICULTURAL ES- TABLISHMENT. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OE SOUTHERN RUSSIA. — ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF MINERAL WATERS. — ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EDUCATION. — LYCEUM OF RICHELIEU. — INSTITUTE FOR NOBLE YOUNG LADIES. — NEW SCHOOL FOR ORIENTAL LAN- GUAGES (PROBABLY CONNECTED WITH DESIGNS OF FU- TURE conquests). — ESTABLISHMENTS FOR RECREATION. PUBLIC GARDEN THEATRE.— CLUB.— ASSEMBLY ROOM. NEW RESOURCE. — ENGLISH CLUB. — HOTELS. — RACE COURSE. — BATHING HOUSES. — LITERATURE. ODESSA JOURNAL. — STATE OF LITERATURE AND THE FINE ARTS. — AGRICULTURE. — ENGLISH SHEEP IMPORTED INTO ODESSA. — GENERAL NOTICE OF VINEYARDS AT ODESSA, FROM ITS FOUNDATION UNTIL THE PRESENT TIME. MARKETS. ARTICLES OF CONSUMPTION. RENTS. — FUEL. — NATIVE COAL BROUGHT FOR THE FIRST TIME TO ODESSA. — OBJECTS OF LUXURY. — COU- TAS OR COUNTRY HOUSES. ODESSA. J/HE most ancient inhabitants of the country in which the present town of Odessa is situated were a savage nation, known under the general deno- mination of Scythians. They led a wandering life, their carts being their habitations ; and sub- sisted chiefly upon the produce of their herds and flocks, the skins of the latter forming their only clothing. Their manners were rude, cruel, and Hcentious. Their successors, the inhabitants of modern " New Russia,** resemble their an- cestors in many respects. They are almost as uncivilised, equally ignorant, surpass them in their vices, and are still clad in sheep-skins. The Greeks and Romans, it is well known, were in the habit of calling the Scythians "barbarians;** and the lower order of Russians, to the present day, merit no other appellation ; nor will they, so long as the government of Russia continues to be despotic, and they are kept in slavery and in ignorance. In after ages we find the Scythians gave way to the classic Greeks ; and there is no doubt that a Grecian establishment existed upon part of the site of the present city of Odessa, from the circumstance that painted vases of Grecian manufacture were discovered a few years ago, N I ! A 178 RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 179 while digging in the neighbourhood of the theatre, and in other parts of the town ; and it seems very probable, from what is advanced by M. Blarem- berg in a short paper on the subject, that this establishment was a colony called Istrianon Limen (Io-Tpiavc7iV xe centre ^f the Boulevard, upon a raised pe^ destal of red granite, is placed a bronze statue of the Duke de Richelieu; a well-merited tribute from the inhabitants of Odessa to the memory of their departed Governor-general, but so badly- executed, that it is said to bear no resemblance whatever to the Duke. A broad carriage-way runs close to the houses, the space from this to tlie edge of the cHff being planted with several rows of young acacias, and the walks between them covered with sand from the sea-shore. The New Boulevard is a great improvement to the town, and forms an agreeable promenade in the summer evenings. At its north-western ex- tremity is situated the new house of Count Vo- rontzof before alluded to, which was, during the late imperial visit to Odessa, the residence of their Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Russia. This is a large plain building, like all in Odessa, plastered over : it has one very great defect, namely, that of being placed so low that from the Boulevard only the upper part is visible, thus appearing as if it were sunk in a well : this completely destroys the effect of what might otherwise have been an imposing structure. It has very large stables built opposite to the grand entrance, and is surrounded by a garden said to be " a I' Anglaise" terminated towards the Boule- vard by a handsome iron railing cast by Mr. Baird at St. Petersburg, being the first and only- railing of that material which has ever been put up in Odessa. Upon entering the house, the state rooms are found on the ground floor ; and I) It ; i II H ^o^ RISE, PROGRESS, AND above, the domestic apartments. The former are rendered remarkable by containing the iden- tical doors, shutters, and chimney-piece, belonging to the Michailof Palace at St. Petersburg, the residence of the unfortunate Emperor Paul, and the scene of his murder. They were sold, as I was informed, by the present Emperor, when Grand Duke, to Count Vorontzof ; His Majesty being, at that time, owner of the palace in ques- tion, which has since been dismantled, and de- voted to the purposes of a public establishment; the room wherein the murder was committed having been walled up, so as to prevent even the possibility of its situation being any longer distin- guishable. The state apartments consist of the billiard, dining, and anterooms, the grand saloon, the library, and the Turkish chamber. These rooms are splendid ; the floors of all, except the Turkish chamber, are parquetted ; and, what is rarely seen in the mansions of Russian noble- men, are well supplied with elegant furniture, the greater part of which was brought from England. On public days they are all thrown open to the visiters. The Turkish chamber is the most elegant, although the least, among them. It is very high, and has a light Gothic roof, painted pale green, with a great deal of beautiful gilding about it ; and round the sides, for about six feet in height, Turkish or Persian shawls are tastefully suspended: several silken divans, and other articles of furniture, appear in convenient situations, and a Persian carpet covers PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 203 the floor ; nor are valuable and rare articles of vertu wanting in their appropriate places. Freely as I shall criticise other parts of this mansion, it is but justice to say that I never saw a more elegant or chastely decorated apartment than this Turkish chamber. But the greatest object of curiosity in the Governor-general's house, during my stay at Odessa, was a Turkish talis- man ; the inefficacy of which, however, as a safe- guard, had been sufficiently proved by the fate of its previous possessor, who was killed in one of the engagements between his countrymen and the Russians ; when this badge of superstitious credulity, consisting of numerous Eastern charac- ters inscribed upon a piece of parchment, being found on the neck of the fallen chief, and for- warded to the Emperor as a trophy, was gra- ciously presented by His Majesty to Count Vorontzofi as a memento of his esteem, with the request that it might be hereafter preserved in the Turkish chamber. From this room there is a descent into the conservatory. The grand staircase is a most miserable piece of architec- ture : it is immensely wide until the visiter ap- proaches the rooms to which it leads, when it suddenly terminates in a landing so narrow that two persons cannot pass each other without care ; and the entrances to the various rooms which open out of this landing can only be described as low and mean apertures. In addition to these imperfections, the staircase has been constructed in so slovenly a manner, that it has been neces- 204 RISE, TROGRESS, AND 1 1< / sary to build brick supports to prevent it from falling, — a circumstance not the most creditable to the architect. The best sleeping-room is a handsome chamber, divided into equal compart- ments by two white scagliola columns, between which are suspended green silk curtains. At right angles to the house there is a large wing, containing several spacious apartments, reserved for visiters, and for an individual formerly at- tached to the suite. In the construction of this part of the building the greatest possible blunder has been committed. Towards the sea, of which otherwise there would be a most magnificent view, it has no windows ; a circumstance not only destroying the external uniformity, but rendering the approaches to the apartments extremely dark: on the contrary, they are placed in the opposite side of the wing, and the only objects which they afford the oppor- tunity of contemplating are the stables and an unpleasant ravine. On resuming the general description of the town, it may be observed, that all its streets are spacious, having usually a row of trees on each side: those formerly planted were poplars, but the white acacia at present seems preferred. With few exceptions, the various avenues run at right angles to each other, and some have pavements of the same description as in the Strada Chersona. I have heard the breadth of the streets often made a subject for censure, on account of the expense of keeping them in repair, (a thing, by PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. ^205 the way, which has never yet been done ;) and I am certainly of opinion, that when first laid out, as it could not at that time have been anticipated that the place would become, in so comparatively short a period, what it is at present, they were preposterously large when contrasted with the scattered huts which then constituted Odessa. For my part, I do not consider the streets too wide for the existing town ; and had they been originally in proportion to the houses first erected, most serious inconveniences would have arisen, and, instead of being able to place a palace where three or four cottages formerly stood, as is now done, the town must have been entirely rebuilt, or a new one commenced on the adjoining Steppe after a more extended plan. It is also said, that, for a town situated in a hot climate, the streets ought to have been narrow ; thus affording shade during the prevalence of the sun, except when vertical. The advantages, however, to be so gained would be but trifling, and the disadvan- tages numerous ; among which an increased ten- dency to the propagation of contagion cannot be considered as the least: for it should be con- stantly borne in mind, that Odessa, from its locality, is always liable to the introduction of the plague, in spite of the utmost vigilance on the part of the officers whose duty it is to enforce the quarantine regulations. The plague pro- duced dreadful havoc in Odessa in the years 1812 and 1813 (an account of which will be given hereafter) ; and its appearance in the town » i I 206 RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 207 15 to a very considerable extent, during the last year (18^9), is a circumstance familiar to all, and which was predicted to me by the English Consul-general resident there some time previous to its taking place. The houses were originally, as before observed, mere huts or cottages, con- taining only ground-floor apartments of little elevation, and covered with wooden roofs; — many of these are yet to be seen in some of the bye-streets, though rapidly approaching to decay. In the principal streets they have been nearly all removed, and upon their site handsomer and more capacious structures erected, some few of which are of an elegant description and of enor- mous dimensions. The largest house in Odessa was built by a slave, who not very long ago pur- chased his freedom for an immense sum ; but this is a rare instance of great success from na- tural cunning *, aided by fortunate occurrences. The houses may be said, in general, to be of two stories ; sometimes of three ; and, in a very few instances, of four. They are constructed of stone t formed by a congeries of small cockle * « But it must not for a moment be imagined, that simpli- city of character is at all connected with the gross ignorance of a Russian ; on the contrary, in cunning he surpasses all people. The Greek of Athens, the Jew of Salonica, even the Armenian, so celebrated for his duplicity, must yield the palm orjinesse to the bearded Muscovite." — Dr. Macmi- chad's Journey, p. 30. ^ Dr. Clarke thus describes it: — " It is in a semi-mdu- rated state; but like the Ketton-stone, and almost every other variety used for architectural purposes, hardens by shells, so soft, when first removed from the quarry, as to be easily cut with a hatchet : they are then plastered over, and painted either of a light green, blue, yellow, or pink colour; the cornices, architraves, pilasters, &c. being white. The roofs chiefly consist of iron plates, which are painted bright green ; but tiles made in the Crimea, slates, and wood, are also thus employed. The magazines for corn are often of astonishing magnitude ; — they are built so as to resemble houses, the windows being supplied either with jalousies or shutters painted green : the largest of these buildings is situated on the south-eastern extremity of the town, and (according to an ad- measurement by pacing) appears to be about 140 yards long by 20 wide ; its height may be pos- sibly 60 feet : it contains three floors, besides cellars. With respect to the internal arrangements of the houses at Odessa, it may be fairly said, that with few exceptions they present little besides the bare walls. That of Count Vorontzof is splendidly fitted up ; but most others have little furniture in them ; what there is being of a paltry description. This observation applies, in a di- minished degree, also to St. Petersburg. All English travellers who have given any exposure to the atmosphere : when examined closely, it ex- hibits, throughout the entire mass, no other appearance than an aggregate of small cockle shells, all exactly of the same size, perfect in their forms, but crumbling in the hand, and coloured by the yellow or red oxide of iron." T 208 RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 209 account of Odessa are unanimous in their com- plaints respecting the execrable state of its roads. In winter they are said to be impassable for the mud, and in summer to be so dusty as almost to obstruct respiration. I shall by no means imitate the conduct of a recent traveller in Russia, who wishes to persuade us that all the statements of his predecessors, which are not palatable to the government, are exaggerated or wholly untrue ; but in my statements will " nothing extenuate, nor aught set down in malice." I shall, there- fore, observe, that when I arrived at Odessa in March 1828, the streets were at least a foot deep in mud and water, which rendered a carriage necessary even to cross the way ; and in many places there were deep holes, which made them absolutely dangerous. The Governor-general, upon resuming his functions, ordered some of them to be repaired ; and the following year, at the time of the imperial visit, four of the prin- cipal streets, namely, the Strade Chersona, Ribas, Greca, and Richelieu, were in tolerable condition. But the remainder are almost as they were when Odessa was originally laid out ; that is to say, they have never been formed into roads at all : they consist of the rich black earth of the Steppe, which, on a shower of rain falling, beCDmes thick mud ; while, on the other hand, a few days' sun- shine transforms it into dust, and this, when raised by the winds, which almost constantly pre- vail at Odessa, render respiration painful, and must be highly injurious to the health of the m- habitants. On these occasions, when looking from the distance of about a verst towards the town, nothing is to be seen but a cloud of dust, the place itself being completely enveloped in it. I was once in the Strada Chersona, and a sudden squall arising, the obscurity immediately pro- duced was so great, that the driver of my own carnage, as well as several others, pulled up for a few seconds, being unable to see their way. Whenever a complaint is made that the roads are bad in Odessa, the answer is, always, that it is mpossibk to have good roads, because no stone liard enough for their construction exists in the neighbourhood. I have always differed from this opinion. It is not the want of proper mate- rials, but the want of knowing how to apply those materials properly, and the roguery of some oflicially connected with the roads at Odessa, to which must be attributed their miserable state. The stone generally employed in building the houses IS certainly so soft that it may be crumbled between the fingers, and is consequently not adapted for road-making ; but there is another species in the immediate vicinity of the town scarcely less abundant, which contains a large proportion of iron, and is sufficiently hard for the purpose. Drains should be first constructed on one or both sides of the road, which should be formed so as to incline, either from its centre to both sides, or from one side to the other. At present, on the contrary, the streets in Odessa are uniformly concave : the water has no means ^10 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of escaping, and accumulates in large quantities on the surface, until it is dissipated either by :;apo ation or percolation. The found^f- «^ the road is thus dissolved and destroyed* ; and when the water is gone, an almost f "f J "^^^ of large holes appear, which, instead of bemg i„.n.ediately filled up, are left to 'n-ease,-^f "^s occasioning constant inconvenience and perd o fhe oassen-ers. There are, it is true, certain otn'dSs on each side of most of the street. Xich are exceedingly dangerous, as I know from experi*ce. having been nearly overturned ri calash by one of the horses slipping into hiXrbarousUes of drain ; but jhey "io "o serve to carry off the water, because the roads iriowest in their centre. These ditches ought a once to be filled up. as they answer no punio^ but that of enabhng the town to levy a rate for their cleansing. But the grand cause of these gk ring imperfections has not yet been explained Cuery has done much more towards retarding fhe S-- -'l improvement of Odessa than gnoran'e. When I left that place the General of En<^ineers. who had had the management and superintendence of the public works there was I heard, under trial at St. Petersbi.rg for having combined with the contractor in defrauding the town, by conniving at the non-performance of various contracts in his department. For a cer- laTn douceur he is said to have allowed the town . This observation applies to four streeU only, no road* having ever been formed in the others. * 1 ' - PHESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 211 works to be performed either with bad materials, i f "'" ""PTu™'""''' ''' "«* ^t ^» ' ^»d this ^ the reason of their notoriously defective state. Many roads were never made; -some building at tl e quarantine was erected on a piece of ground containing springs, which were previouf v co vered with sand to conceal them jiaTdTbrid" over a ravine in one of the prindpal stre^^Ja^ hmlt three times, having twice fallen; the cir cumsj^nce. as I was assured by an old i^habiten of Odessa, naturally occasioning so much d"s. trust as to its stability when findly comlttd that It was a long time before the townspeopre ventured to pass over it. It was supposed S the General must be found guilty, and. in co7 -quence. be sent to Siberia! and alth;ugh^s" conduct cannot be defended, yet. on tracing the cause of an effect so lamentable, mucS be Xf:Tr'r ''"''''- ^i- Emperor knC well (for the fact was represented to His Majesty soon af ter hjs accession, in an excellent letter from tfaU ol^"'r°''^ ^'"^ ^'^^ -I-- attached to all offices m the empire are much too low • and that a majority of those who hold them al' thus driven to the exaction of illegal fees and th. employment of other dishonesf means' fo^ the purpose of being enabled to support 2 ann. ance which is expected from tC ' a En colonel, 84/. ; the governor of a province 4J00 roubles, or about 168/. : the latter^being obS to keep a large house, two or three faS^ ^12 R^SE, PROGRESS, AND and a host of servants. All these gentlemen have not private fortunes : how then is it that Jhey. -ithLt an exception, contrive to hve on a scale of expense, to defray which then" sala- ries are utterly inadequate V The answer is pfain-by extortion, injustice, and dishonesty- One of these culprits is sometimes brought to ^ard for convicUon and condemnation, when t is known that all in his circumstances must be eaually ti (' w SOCIETY OF PRISON DISCIPLINE. • This was founded in the year 1828, upon a similar plan to that established at St. Petersburg, in imitation of the London society of the same name. It sounds well to hear even of the exist- ence of such a society in Russia ; but let no one imagine that it can be of much service. I was proposed and unanimously elected a member of '282 RIS£, PROGRESS, AND this society, paid my subscription *, and attended one meeting ; but never took any further part in its proceedings, for the following reason : — One of the members, with whom I was on intimate terms, and who had heard me express my deter- mination of endeavouring, as far as I could, to bring the defects and abuses existing in the gaol before the notice of the committee, gave me a friendly caution in the following words : — ** What you are about to do, Doctor, reflects great credit upon your feelings ; but allow me, who have lived a longer time in Russia, and know more of it than you, to give a little wholesome advice, or you will be getting into difficulties. While inspecting the prison, you may observe whether it be kept clean or otherwise ; whether properly warmed or not ; you may suggest improvements in the form of the building, and give your opi- nion upon the state of health in the prisoners, if you like ; but you must not do more : it is no business of yours ; nor must you enquire for what crime they are confined, and whether justly or not : that is a subject for the tribunals alone to decide upon, and I advise you to hold your tongue respecting it." I felt obliged for the hint, and determined to have nothing further to do with the society, as I did not seem likely to be of any service, and might even compromise * The subscription is 20 roubles per annum : I gave a 25 rouble note, but have never received the change up to this moment ; which I mention merely on account of the characteristic nature of the circumstance. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 283 my own safety by attempting it. The printed order, therefore, which, as one of the committee, I had received for the purpose of visiting the prison, I kept by me unused. .) si SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISHMENTS. MUSEUM. The Museum of Odessa has only existed about four years ; being composed, 1 believe, at first merely of the private collection of ancient coins and other antiquities formed by M. Blaremberg, which having been purchased for the town as the ?iucleus of a museum, that gentleman was deservedly appointed its curator. No appropriate building has yet been constructed for the recep- tion of the curiosities. A convulsion of nature which took place in April, 18^8 (and which ap- pears to have resembled an earthquake}, afforded the means of adding an interesting object to the museum. During the night, a considerable portion of the cliff in front and forming part of the New Boulevard was thrown down, while the ground between it and the sea, for a distance of about half a mile, was rent in parallel fissures, varying in width from a few inches to several yards, and with such tremendous force, that even immense masses of rock, which happened to lie in the di- rection of the fissures, were riven in two. On minutely examining the spot afterwards, innu- merable fragments of stone, human bones, bricks, &c. were found exposed to view — some having 284 RISE, PROGRESS, AND t^ even been projected into the sea ; and among them appeared the interesting object above al- luded to, namely, the femur of an animal of pro- digious size, supposed to be that of a mammoth, such as are met with in the Steppe of Otschakoft* upon the heights which overlook the river Boug. IMPERIAL AGRICULTURAL ESTABLISIIiMENT. In the year 1819 the establishment which bears this name was formed on the Steppe southward of the town, and at no great distance from it. It is a nursery for fruit and forest trees, — an es- tablishment much wanted at Odessa, and which may be of the greatest advantage to it. M. Schmitz, a German, conducts the establishment, which is supported by an annual donation of 10,000 roubles from the Emperor, certain sums advanced by the town, and what may be derived from the sale of trees, shrubs, &c. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF SOUTHERN RUSSIA. At the commencement of the year 1828, several landed proprietors of New Russia formed the project of establishing a society of agriculture, to bear the above title ; which being communi- cated by Count Vorontzof, through the Minister of the Interior, to the Emperor, His Majesty Avas pleased not only to approve of the plan, but to order that the sum of 5000 roubles should be annually allowed from the imperial treasury, towards defraying the necessary expenses of carrying it into execution ; the chamber of PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 285 A finances of Cherson being authorised, from the date of the ukase, to pay over the above sum on demand of the Governor-general for the time being. The following are the objects of the society, as contained in their printed pro- spectus : — " 1. That it shall occupy itself exclusively with rural economy, and especially with those branches thereof which apply, or are capable of being applied, to Southern Russia ; such as the culture of wheat and other corn, and the thresh- ing and improvement of their respective produce. " 2. The propagation and improvement of the breed, and fattening of horned cattle. ** 3. The rearing and improvement of sheep for wool. " 4. The means of improving the preparation of their various products ; such as the fabrication of tallow, the curing of hides, bleaching and sorting of wool, &c. " 5. The introduction and culture of plants adapted for forage. " 6. The planting and culture of the vine, and the most advantageous processes for making wine. " 7. The planting and culture of the mulberry, and the raising of silk worms. " 8. The planting and culture of the most pro- ductive fruit trees, such as olives, almonds, &c. ; also forest trees. " 9. The introduction and culture of plants for the purpose of making oil, and to be employed it I ■ \ 286 RISE, PROGRESS, AND in manufactures ; such as the wild cabbage, cotton, &c., and others which will suit the soil and climate. « 10. The introduction, trial, and improve- ment of agricultural instruments. " 11. The means of making known to the agriculturists of New Russia the results of expe- riments, and the observations which the society shall have made, or obtained by means of its members ; as well as the improvements and dis- coveries in agriculture, occurring in foreign countries, which may come to the knowledge of the society, and which it may consider useful and applicable to the agriculture of Southern Russia.'* «* The society, while thus tracing the sphere of its general objects, reserves to itself the power of extending its enquiries to other points of rural economy, if experience should ultimately demon- strate the utility of so doing." On the 1st of January, 1829, the society held its first meeting at the house of the Governor- general, when the members were informed of its confirmation by the Emperor j and having chosen their first officers, adjourned. Such an institution, if conducted with spirit and ability, might pro- duce the greatest benefits j but, as a first step, an agricultural journal ought to be connected with it: the press, however, is so shackled in Russia, that this privilege might perhaps be dif- ficult to obtain. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 287 ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF MINERAL WATERS. • During the residence of the Emperor Nicholas at Odessa, in 1828, Count Vorontzof obtained permission to establish a Joint Stock Company, with a capital of 50,000 roubles, in 200 shares of 250 roubles each, in order to form an establish- ment for the preparation of artificial ' mineral waters, after the manner pursued in several towns on the Continent and in England. M. Berzelius of Stockholm was then requested to nominate a gentleman qualified to superintend the proposed institution ; and a Professor Hartval has been pre- vailed upon (no doubt by the influence of great promises) to come to Odessa for that purpose. In the early part of 1829, this gentleman was said to be busily occupied in the preparation of the necessary apparatus ; it being also asserted, that, during the following summer, the establish- ment would be in full operation, at a house in the public garden, which the local government had devoted to its use. I4i \i i r ( i^ ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EDUCATION. LYCEUM OF RICHELIEU. The daily increasing importance of Odessa as a commercial town, its numerous population, dis- tance from the university of KharkofF and other good schools, gave rise, in 1817, to the resolution of forming there a public institution, wherein the higher as well as the more common branches of I 288 RISE, PROGRESS, AND instruction should be taught, and which should supersede the " Gymnasium,** the " Institute," and the parochial schools already established. It was, moreover, determined to call it the " Lyceum of Richelieu," from the fact of the Duke de Richelieu having contributed, towards the support of the establislnnent, the annual sum of 3260 thallers, which had been granted to him by the Russian government as a recompence for his distinguislied services ; and the Emperor Alex- ander confirmed the plan on the 2d of May in that year. Its funds are composed principally of the do- nation already mentioned ; a tax of ten kopecks copper upon every tchetvert of grain exported from Odessa ; the sum of 0500 roubles payable annually by the government for the support of the Gymnasium ; an equal sum agreed to be paid by the merchants of Odessa ; and the profits de- rived from the boarders. It is under the superintendence of the Governor of Odessa, and a committee of four members, chosen from the parents or guardians of pupils in the establishment. A splendid plan had been drawn up for the Lyceum, which, in 1817, was printed at Paris, in quarto, (a copy of which was presented to me by my respected friend. Dr. Orlai, its late di- rector;) and it was intended that a magnificent building should be erected in the vicinity of the fortress, for the purposes of the institution : but these plans were never carried into effect, and PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 289 the buildings formerly appropriated to the Gym- nasium and the Institute were repaired and con- verted into the present Lyceum of Richelieu. Tlie structure which bears this name is situated in the centre of the town, and can by no means be described as an elegant specimen of architec- ture. One of its fa9ades forms part of the Strada Ribas, and two others are similarly circumstanced with respect to different streets. Its site encloses an oblong space of considerable dimensions, which is divided in the middle by a line of building, thus forming two courts for the recreation and exer- cise of the pupils. The internal management of the Lyceum is vested in a director or principal, and several pro- fessors or masters : two priests, one of the Greek, and the otlier of the Catholic faith, are attached to the institution, in order to perform divine ser- vice, and to instruct the pupils in the principles of tlieir respective religions. The Abbe Nicholle was the first director, who is said to have been a learned and able man. His successor was a gentleman formerly his assistant, who held the office for some time, and, although considered a man of talent, yet the institution never flourished under his auspices. In the year 1822 or 1823, the late Dr. Orlai, a man no less respected for his simplicity of manners than for his talent and erudition *, was appointed to its superintendence, and continued to hold that office until his death / ( * Sir James Wylie says, he was " the best classical scholar in Russia." U 290 RISE, PROGRESS, AND in the year 1829. Shortly after my arrival at Odessa I went over the whole of the Lyceum, in company with Dr. Orlai ; the number of scho- lars then amounting to three hundred. The boarders wear an uniform like the military, con- sisting of dark green trowsers and coat, edged with red, and cloth foraging caps. The Doctor told me during this visit, that on his receiving the appointment of director, he found the whole establishment in confusion; the professors wil- fully neglected to perform their duty, and all sub- ordination was at an end ; while the funds were embezzled and squandered : in short, every thing was going to ruin. " I immediately," said he, " discharged one half of the professors, who were by far too numerous for the duty to be performed. Much still requires to be done : I have only com- menced the work of reformation.'* He intro- duced several very good regulations, and the in- stitution once more began to flourish under his judicious management. It has three principal divisions, namely, the First School, the Gymna- sium, and the Lyceum. The first of these, as its name imports, is merely a preparatory school, the plan of instruction adopted being the Lan- casterian. In the others, the higher branches of education are taught. Each of the three divi- sions is subdivided into classes, to which different rooms are appropriated, with a professor in each. When the hours for business have expired, the pupils are in large separate apartments, one be- longing to the Gymnasium, and another to the PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. ^91 » I Lyceum, or, in their respective exercise courts, where, at those times, a superintendent is always present, a constant check being thus maintained upon their actions. Each of the two latter divi- sions has also its dormitory ; and in a large re- fectory on the ground floor the pupils dine to- gether. Three rooms, partitioned off from the rest of the building, serve as an infirmary for the sick ; there is also a Greek church for scholars of the established faith, and a Catholic place of worship for those of the latter persuasion ; but children of all religions are admissible into the institution. Appended to the Lyceum is also a supplementary, or, as it is termed. Pedagogic class, consisting of twenty-four pupils, who are instructed for the express purpose of becoming future mas- ters of schools in different parts of Russia. INSTITUTE FOR NOBLE YOUNG LADIES. The Institute of Odessa for noble young ladies was founded in the year 1806, by M. Volsey, existing for some time as a private school ; after- wards the Duke de Richelieu took it under his protection : but having no fixed revenue it never flourished. In 1821, upon the representation of Count Langeron, then Governor-general, a cer- tain number of scholars were placed there at the expense of the crown ; and their number was increased in 1824. Latterly, a considerable sum of money has been allowed by the Emperor, and a new organisation has given the Institute in- creased importance, and extended its sphere of u 2 id 292 RISE, PROGRESS, AND usefulness. At present it is under the direction of a committee of surveillance, composed of the Governor of the town, the Marshal of the nobi- lity in the government of Cherson, the Mayor of Odessa, and three members nominated by the Governor-general of New Russia, the whole being under the orders of the latter. The course of instruction followed in this establishment em- braces religion, arithmetic, history, geography, with the Russian, Italian, and French languages. The house at present occupied by the Institute, in the Rue Sophie, having been found much too small for the increased number of its inmates, the determination was formed of building an edi- fice expressly for their reception, the first stone of which was laid in July, 1828. SCHOOL FOR ORIENTAL LANGUAGES. Upon the Governor-generars representation of the advantages which would accrue from the establishment of a school for Oriental languages, the Emperor by an ukase, dated the 13th of Oc- tober, 1828, authorised the formation of such an institution at Odessa, and assigned from the Im- perial treasury the sum of 10,000 roubles an- nually for its support. The Governor-general is, moreover, empowered to draw from the revenues of the town and from those of Bessarabia a farther sum of 4000 roubles, which is to be specially devoted to this establishment The local government has already taken some measures for carrying into execution the pro- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 293 1 posed plan, and it is expected that the school will ere long be established. The want of such an institution has, for a considerable time, been felt in the southern provinces of Russia, and the advantages which it may be expected to produce are likewise considerable. The immense frontier, extending from Kiakhta to Kamenets-Podolsk, is inhabited by people among whom the Turkish language is more or less spoken ; all the Mo- hamedan inhabitants of the Crimea, and the pro- vinces of the Caucasus, who are very numerous, also employ the same medium of commu- nication. Odessa possesses the means of es- tablishing Oriental schools which do not exist elsewhere in the empire : it is easy there to find good masters, and pupils can easily procure opportunities of speaking the Turkish language.* In March, 1829, it was officially announced that arrangements had been made which led to the expectation that the school would be speedily opened ; and such persons as might wish to become scholars were invited to apply for ad- mission at the Chancery of the Governor-general. The pupils are to be divided into two classes, — boarders and day scholars. The former, solely chosen among Russian subjects, will receive an * These were the ostensible reasons given by the Russian government for the foundation of this establishment ; but I have no doubt, that the expected subjugation of Turkey by Russia, and the consequently anticipated want of employes speaking the Turkish language, was the chief inducement to its formation. It may, also, have reference to the future designs of Russia upon our East Indian possessions. u 3 II 294. RISE, PROGRESS, AND allowance of 600 roubles (about twenty-five pounds ten shillings) per annum ; and after having finished their studies, will be bound to serve the government, in quahty of interpreters, for the period of five years. They will undergo an examination previously to their admission into the school. The day scholars may attend the courses without entering into any engage- ment to serve, but these will have no claim to pecuniary assistance from the establishment, though, on the completion of their studies, they may demand to be employed by the government of New Russia in preference to other competitors. The principal institutions at Odessa for the purposes of education having been noticed, it may be observed, in addition, that there are a few private academies in the tow^n, which, like alehouses with us, must be duly licensed, also a free school appropriated to children of the Jews, and perhaps others. ESTABLISHMENTS FOR RECREATION, ETC. PMic Gardefi, The chief entrance to this is from the Strada Ribas, towards which it has open wooden railings. It is well planted with small trees, many of them being fruit trees, and contains several agreeable walks. It has existed for many years, and is a great acquisition to the town. Theatre, The growing importance of Odessa, and the augmentation of its inhabitants, occasioned several \ PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 295 years ago the erection of a temporary theatre, which has since been replaced by a permanent and elegant building of stone devoted to the same purpose, constructed from the designs of M. Thomon. Its four fa9ades are in a simple style of architecture, the eastern being orna- mented with a peristyle supported by columns. Russian pieces and Italian operas are acted here on alternate nights ; and I do not consider the performances by any means inferior to those at the Italian Opera House of St. Petersburgi The prima donna receives 500/. per annum, be- sides having lodgings and a calash provided for her. Tlie Gub. An immense pile of building erected many years ago by M. Rainaud, at one extremity of the Rue Richelieu, bears this curious deno^ mination : in it is found The Assembli/ Roamj a fine oval hall, the upper part of which is surrounded by a gallery, supported by pillars. It is capable of containing 1000 persons, and, with the exception of Moskow and Petersburg, there is no town in the Russian empire which possesses so handsome a room. It also serves for the Exchange as before mentioned. Within the Club, in another part of the building, facing the theatre, are held the meetings of a society denominated u 4 i 296 RISE, PROGRESS, AND T^e New Hesoiirce. which consists of the principal merchants in the town, the port-captain and other officers, the foreign consuls, &c. It gives balls and dinners occasionally, and has a reading room. Formerly there existed also in it an Efiglish Cluhy for similar purposes, but composed of English- men ; where, when the Russian government did not keep them back *, the members had an op- portunity of reading the newspapers of their own country. However this society has for some time been extinct, as there are not sufficient residents at Odessa to supply the necessary funds for its support Several Englishmen are said to have lost their property, but no one of that country is supposed to have acquired any at Odessa. The Club also contains a cafe and a billiard room. Motelsy There are but two hotels in the town ; viz., the Club, and the " Hotel du Nord." The Club forms part of the structure just described, under the same appellation : the Hotel du Nord is a * There is a society, called the " English Club" at St. Pe- tersburg, where the English papers are taken in ; but the author of " St. Petersburg" and myself were informed by some of the members that whenever they contain any poli- tical news of importance they are kept back by the govern- ment, and never come to hand ! I li PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 297 large building situated in a different part of the town ; the accommodations in both are poor, and the charges high. The rooms in the Club are large, those in the Hotel du Nord on a smaller scale, but both are nearly without furniture, and most abominably dirty. Race-course, A race-course has been marked out by poles on the Steppe, about three versts from Odessa, where horse-races are to be contested after the English fasliion. Count Vorontzof brought with him from St. Petersburg three silver cups, which, it is said. His Excellency proposes offering as prizes to be run for. Bathing Houses. On the sea-shore, in front of the New Boule- vard, appear some temporary houses, chiefly covered with canvass, and employed as dressing rooms for bathers. These were only erected within the last few years ; previously to which I have been informed that it was usual among the ladies of Odessa, as well as the lower orders, to bathe in the open sea. Odessa journal. The only newspaper or periodical publication allowed to be printed in the town is the "Journal d'Odessa," which was commenced during the government of the Duke de Richelieu. It was then little more than a register of the commerce V / 298 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of Odessa ; and in this state it continued until the administration of Count Michel Vorontzof, who, wishing to assimilate it in some measure to the nature of a general newspaper, at the same time that its prominent object should be the dif- fusion of intelhgence immediately concerning, or which might be productive of advantage to Odessa and New Russia, applied to the Emperor Alexander for permission to introduce political notices in addition to its usual contents. His Imperial Majesty accordingly authorised the in- sertion of extracts from the ** Gazette de Peters- burg,'* or any other of the existing Russian jour- nals ; but as there is no censor for the ** Journal d'Odessa," it was added, that whatever else might be inserted should be on the persoJial responsible Utij of the Governor-general. In consequence of this regulation, the general impression is not struck off' until a proof-sheet has been read to His Excellency, and has received his approba- tion, or such corrections, additions, and erasures as he may think proper. The "Journal d'Odessa*' is, therefore, the dictum of the Governor-general for the time being. It consists of a small sheet with very wide margins, containing two columns in each page, one in French and the other in Russ, the former being sometimes a translation of the latter, but frequently composed of entirely different matter. Original essays upon various subjects are occasionally given, and there is al- ways a table of the thermometrical and barome- trical changes that have occurred since the date PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 299 of the last number, the former of which are care- fully modelled according to the understood wishes of the *' powers that be." Notices by way of advertisement are also from time to time inserted, but seldom occupy much room. A journal so shackled as the one now described cannot be expected to contain much novel or interesting intelligence ; accordingly we find even the Rus- sians themselves complaining that it is occupied " trop peu de politique, et que les nouvelles de Parmie etaient en general trop succintes." The extent of its real circulation I have been unable to ascertain ; but the editors stated officially, at the end of the year 1828, that the number of subscribers amounted to near two thousand. The Odessa Journal appears twice a week, viz. on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and can only be procured by persons residing in the town on subscription at the office in the Strada Chersona, or by those in the interior through the post-office ; the terms being, for one year, 25 paper roubles (paid in advance) ; six months, 15 roubles : ex- penses of postage within the empire, six roubles for one year, and three for six months. Upon particular occasions a supplement is published, which is distributed gratuitously to the sub- scribers. STATE OF LITERATURE AND THE FINE ARTS. There is only one bookseller's shop at Odessa, namely, that of M. Roubaud in the Rue Riche- lieu, which contains a very limited collection of 300 RISE, PROGRESS, AND books at exorbitant prices. I believe there is no printing press in the town but tliat belonging to the local government. The state of the fine arts may be learned on perusing the following extract from the Odessa Gazette, the official organ : — " We feel much the want of an engraver or a lithographer. There is not a single artist in the town who is able to engrave or lithograph the smallest figure or the most trifling ornament. We are persuaded that a good lithograi)her, or even an engraver of moderate abilities, would find here great advantages. A lithographer might indeed depend upon the assistance of the local govern- ment, which has procured for the printing estab- lishment of the town an excellent lithographic press, with every thing necessary for its employ- ment." Odessa, it must be recollected, is the third town in importance in the Russian empire ! AGRICULTURE. English Sheep imported into Odessa. The introduction of long- wool led English sheep had for a length of time been desired in the south of Russia, and in the year 1828 Count Vorontzof accomplished this important object for his coun- trymen, by the importation of three rams and seventeen ewes, chosen from the flock of the Duke of Rutland. Notwithstanding the long voyage, and a subsequent detention of some PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 301 months at Constantinople, the whole arrived at Odessa in perfect health, and were sent to a country house belonging to His Excellency, about five versts from the town. English sheep are thus introduced into Russia ; and there is no doubt that in the course of a few years their numbers will be rapidly multiplied in the southern provinces of the empire. General Notice of the Vineyards contained nsaithin the Liberties of the Torwn of Odessa in the Year 1827. The vineyard of most ancient date in the en- virons of Odessa was formed in the year 1798. It is situated in the Moldavanska, and belongs to Major Sporitis. The first slips planted in it were taken from vines at Akerman. It contains 5000 plants ; and although at present much neg- lected, yet 20 pouds (7^0 lbs.) of grapes were obtained from it in 1827. It seems that during the first few years after the foundation of Odessa, its inhabitants attached very little importance to the culture of the vine. Until 1807 there were not more than eight vineyards in the environs of the town, and in the year 1812 only eighteen. From this latter period the culture of the vine has become more extended and improved. In 1817 the number of vineyards had increased to - 54? In 1822 - - - - 110 And in 1827 - - - - 162 302 RISE, PROGRESS, AND Among this number there were 13 Vineyards containing less than 1000 plants. 67 cont4iining from 1000 to 5000 26 5000 - 10,000 41 - 10,000 - 30,000 10 - 30,000 - 60,000 4 - 60,000 - 100,000 and 1 - more tlian 100,000 162 The most extensive vineyard in the environs of Odessa contains 151,345 plants : it is the pro- perty of Major Potier. Akerman also furnished the first slips for this plantation, which was com- menced in 1820, and has gradually increased up to the present time. The vines, having been so recently planted, are as yet comparatively un- productive; however, in 18^7, 320 vedros of wine were made from this vineyard, which were sold at four roubles the vedro. The number of plants contained in the 162 vineyards of Odessa amounts to 1,930,870, of which 372,575 were only planted in 1827. Hence it is evident that the crops from these vineyards cannot be of much importance until after the lapse of several years. Among the 102 vineyards before mentioned, four have as yet given no crop, in consequence of want of attention on the part of the proprietors ; 43 have also afforded no produce, because the plants are too young to bear fruit; four have been ruined by the locusts ; four have had a bad crop ; and 13 have been entirely reserved for the use of their owners, the produce of which cannot therefore be considered as an object of sale. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 303 With respect to the remaining 94 vineyards, the following is an account of their returns : — Grapes. 1606 pouds of grapes were sold at the rate of from two and a half to three and four roubles the poud ; besides various quantities were disposed of by retail, to the value of 567I roubles. Wifie, 21,683 vedros of wine were made, of which 597*5 vedros were red wine ; and, Among the vineyards from which it was ob- tained, 17 produced under 50 vedros, 8 from - - 50 — to 100 28 - - . 100 — 500 9 - - . 500 — 1500 and 1 - - - - 1600. The vineyard which has produced the largest crop is that of a merchant named Rostowtsoff, situated about five versts from the great fountain. Its first slips were brought from the Archipelago, and planted in 1815, to the number of 5000. At present, this vineyard contains 25,000 plants in full bearing, and 3000 young ones. The crop of 1827 produced 700 vedros of red, and 900 of white wine. Of this quantity 1400 vedros have been sold, at the rate of 3 roubles 60 kopecks the vedro. It has been observed above, that the quantity I I I ^ mm< 304 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of wine obtained in 1827 amounted to 21,083 vedros. It is necessary to add, that of this quantity 14,853 vedros were sold immediately after tlie vintage, some of which produced four roubles the vedro, but the greater part was sold at the rate of three roubles 60 kopecks for the same quantity. The proprietor who obtained the highest price was M. Eugenius Goguel, the vineyard belong- ing to whom is situated in the Moldavanska : it was formed in 1820, the first slips being brought from the Crimea, and from France. In 1827, it contained 21,000 plants, producing 280 vedros of wine, the whole of which were sold at six rou- bles the vedro. This price is very high in com- parison with what is usually obtained, and serves to prove, how greatly the wine of Odessa is sus- ceptible of improvement by proper attention. One of the oldest vineyards in the environs of Odessa, remarkable for the care with which it is kept, and the amount of its produce, is situated on the sea-shore, the date of its origin being the year 1804. The first slips which were planted here were brought from the Archipelago, and in 1827 there were 48,000 plants in full bearing. Grapes were sold to the amount of 600 roubles, and 600 vedros of white, and 580 of red wine were obtained ; the whole of which brought three roubles 40 kopecks the vedro : so that this vine- yard produced to the proprietor, in the last-men- tioned year, the sum of 4500 roubles (about 187/.). ] PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 305 MARKETS, ARTICLES OF CONSUMPTION, ETC. There are two markets at Odessa, in which butchers' meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, the pro- duce of the neighbouring colonies, fruit, &c. are to be purchased ; also hay and corn. Horned cattle are not allowed to be slaughtered in the town, but are driven to the Steppe, beyond its precincts, where, on the brink of a large hole dug for the purpose, they are killed, the offal thrown in, and the carcasses conveyed to the shambles. When the hole is nearly full, it is covered over with earth, and a new one formed. The slaughter- man is a Jew, who has a small house built on the spot, and resides there. Sheep and lambs may be killed in the town. Meat is exceedingly cheap at Odessa. It must not, however, be imagined that it bears any resemblance to that which comes to a London table : the animals are not fattened expressly for the butcher, as with us ; but those, among the oxen, employed in the transport of corn, or other articles to Odessa, which appear upon their arrival in the best condition, are pur- chased, driven to the Steppe, and at once slaugh- tered. Beef may be bought for a penny a pound, and if taken by the year together, for perhaps a halfpenny : a quarter of lamb can be procured for half a rouble (5rf.), and poultry at propor-* tionably low prices : fish may be had for almost nothing, while butter and cheese are dear, and of a bad quality. Bread is seldom very good at Odessa, and not cheap : hay is often excessively dear. I I ')■ » 9 MT ■ IIP* 306 RISE, PROGRESS, AND The following is an account of the quantities of provisions sold in the year 1828, at Odessa, for the consumption of the town : — Poulhif and Eggs, 7500 turkeys; 12,000 geese ; 11,000 ducks; 14,000 pullets, and 39,500 eggs. 52,000 pouds. Meai, There were killed in the butcheries 21,952 horned cattle ; 37,355 sheep ; 2930 calves, and 580 hogs : in addition to which, 7205 oxen were slaughtered for the manufacture of tallow. Ite7its. House-rent is dear : speaking generally a house that costs in building from 20,000 to 25,000 roubles will let for 2500 to 3000 roubles per annum, according to the quarter in which it may be situated. This is given as a general rule, the exceptions to which are more likely to be in favour of the landlord than the tenant. The rent of cellars and magazines fluctuates accord- ing to the greater or less activity of commerce ; thus there is no fixed proportion between the sum required to build a cellar or a magazine and that which it will let for. There are, how- ever, numerous instances, where they have in six or seven years produced far more than the cost of their construction. — Among other necessaries of life must be mentioned water, which at Odessa PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 307 entails a serious expense upon a large establish- ment, not less than eight or ten shillings a week being paid by many inhabitants for this article alone; thanks to the negligence of the local government. Ftiel. The ordinary fuel of the upper classes in Odessa is wood, which is either brought from the Crimea by sea, or by land from the neigh- bourhood of the Dniester. The lower orders are unable to procure wood, and as a substitute for it, employ reeds, stubble, &c., and the ordure of horses or oxen mixed with straw and litter, which is then cut into pieces, like turf with us, and dried in the sun during the summer season. Wood is one of the most expensive articles of housekeep- ing at Odessa, by reason of the limited supply, and its consequent high price. During summer it may often be purchased at a moderate rate, but as the cold weather approaches it becomes excessively dear. In the winter of 1828-9 (w hich was a very severe one), a great scarcity of wood was experienced, because the vessels which are usually employed in its conveyance to Odessa had been hired by the government as transports in consequence of the war. Its value became, from this circumstance, enormously en- hanced; and a stack of wood, six feet in length, about three in breadth, and three in height, could not be bought for less than 100 roubles, or 4/. 5s. A much larger sum was frequently det X 2 I f ! 1 r 308 RISE, PROGRESS, AND manded, and sometimes it could not be pro- cured at any price. In proof of which it may be stated, that rushes were bought and burned even in the house of the Governor-general. At St. Petersburg, the quantity of wood just referred to may usually be procured for six or eight shillings ! Vast as are the forests in some parts of the empire, the consumption, or rather the waste, of wood is so immense, tliat many well- informed persons in Russia are of opinion, that in the course of a few years there will be a de- ficiency of trees fit for fuel. Whole forests are consigned to the axe, while no one ever thinks of planting. The Russians appear to forget that it is more easy to destroy trees than to produce them. The scarcity and high price of wood at Odessa have induced several individuals to con- sider whether some other kind of fuel might not be advantageously substituted for ordinary con-, sumption. English coal has been occasionally employed for that purpose, having been brought from England as ballast, and sold sometimes so low as sixty kopecks the poud, of thirty-six pounds English. But as no dependence could be placed upon the regularity of this supply, in- asmuch as the Turks have always hitherto had the power of shutting up the Black Sea whenever they were inclined so to do, and as it was well known that mines of native coal existed at no great distance, the local government, at the com- mencement of the year 1829, caused 6000 pouds of coal, from the mines of Bakhmoute, in the '!l PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 309 s government of Ekaterinoslaf, to be brought to Odessa ; none but English coal having ever been previously employed there. The speculation has not, in the present instance, answered; but if followed up, it will no doubt be an undertaking highly advantageous to the town. The coal in question is sold at the mines for fourteen kopecks the poud : on its arrival at Taganroc the price is increased to thirty-two kopecks ; and in the above instance, the cost attending its transport to Odessa raised it to 104 kopecks the poud. But coal will no doubt be brought thither at a much smaller expense, when its more general use, and, consequently, the increased demand for that species of fuel, shall have induced persons of capital to embark in the trade. Until 1825 the admiralty of Nikolaief was provided with coals from Bakhmoute and Lissitcha by private speculators ; but some misunderstanding having arisen, they discontinued to supply it from that period. The Minister of Finance has now, upon the representations of the government at Odessa, made arrangements to facilitate this trade, as an encouragement to which, it has been determined that all the public buildings in Odessa shall, in future, be heated with coal from Bakhmoute, if its price should be such as to render that plan eligible. It is worthy of remark, that the want of wood, which at present so strikingly character- terises the vicinity of Odessa, was equally expe- rienced in former days. Herodotus acquaints us, that in his time Scythia was very scantily x 3 T-^ i I 310 RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 311 supplied with this necessary article ; adding, that in its stead the Scythians employed the bones of animals as fuel, for the purpose of cooking their meat. The same scarcity existed in the time of Ovid, who, as is well known, was exiled into this neighbourhood, where he ended his days. Ohjeds ofLuxw-y. It is amusing to observe, when necessaries are of general attainment, how soon luxuries succeed. In 1803 people went on foot at Odessa ; and a droshki, drawn with one horse, produced innu- merable salutations to the lucky proprietor. At the present day carriages and four may be seen in every street, while calashes and droshkies with two are met almost without intermission ; a certain number of the latter plying constantly in the streets, as at Moscow and St. Petersburg. Carriages and fodder for horses are dear : in- deed, few of the former are built in the town, being principally brought from Vienna, where they may be procured at low prices. Horses are cheap : a colonel of my acquaintance bought a neat small pair for a light calash for 200 roubles (8/. 10^.). But, in concluding these few remarks on the most prominent objects of luxury at Odessa, I must add, that a carriage of some description or other ought rather, in consequence of the wretched state of the roads and the ram- bling nature of the town to be considered as an absolute necessary. —At the period before re- ferred to, three houses used to be instanced where a person, without invitation, might call at dinner- time and not inconvenience the host : now, any one who is known will have no difficulty in getting a dinner at almost every house. In 1803 the dresses of both sexes were a con- fused mixture of different costumes : all the re- spectable inhabitants * now are clothed like those of the great continental or English towns. Dan- dies may be found even at Odessa ; and a blue surtout coat, lined with pink or plaid silk, appears to be considered a very becoming attire. The Stultz of Odessa is Tessie, whose prices are not proportionably lower than those of his celebrated prototype in London. I used to give for inferior articles more than I am in the habit of paying in London for those of the best quality ; but the Russians are not charged at this rate. Merchands des modes are also to be found in Odessa, but there cannot be much employment for them. Coutas. On the sea-shore, a few versts from the town, are several small country houses termed " Coutas,** in which their owners reside during the summer season. One of these, belonging to Baron Rai- naud, was inhabited by the Empress of Russia during her late visit to Odessa, and several little fetes were given there as well as at the adjoining couta, the property of the present Governor- general. * Excepting Greek and Turkish merchants, who retain their national costume. X 4 312 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 313 CHAP. V. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE DREADFUL PLAGUE WHICH PREVAILED AT ODESSA IN THE YEARS 1812-13. ITS ORIGIN. SUPPOSED CASES OF PLAGUE. — MEETING OF THE MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS CALLED. DIFFERENCE OF OPINION. DECLARED BY ONE TO BE PLAGUE. PRI- MARY MEASURES TAKEN TO PREVENT THE SPREADING OF THE CONTAGION. PROGRESS OF THE CONTAGION.— THE TOWN IN QUARANTINE. DREADFUL SPECTACLE. PRAISEWORTHY CONDUCT OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. TROOPS AFFECTED WITH THE CONTAGION. — CONTINU- ANCE OF THE PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES. — GENERAL SYMPTOMS OBSERVED IN THOSE WHO LABOURED UNDER THE PLAGUE. CERTAIN PECULIARITIES OBSERVED IN THE SYMPTOMS. — TABLES OF THE MORTALITY IN 1812 IN 1813. MEANS OF PREVENTION, — REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF INSUSCEPTIBILITY OF THE PLAGUE. The following account of the plague, which pre- vailed at Odessa, in the years 1812-13, is chiefly abridged from that given by the Marquis Cas- telnau, who was himself an eye-witness of wliat he describes ; and the fact of that awful ma- lady having again broken out in Odessa during the last summer, and raged there almost until the present time, may perhaps be deemed a suf- ficient reason for its introduction in this place. The manner in which this dreadful scourge was introduced into the tow^n, in the year 1812, has never yet been discovered, and, in all proba- ' bility, never will ; but there are many reports current upon the subject. The most prevalent of w hich is, that a ring, wrapped round with cotton wool, w^as smuggled from the quaran- tine to an actress in the town — that the con- tagion was thus conveyed to her, and spread from her to others ; but this opinion does not appear to be borne out by facts, since, in all probability, she was not the first person affected. All, how- ever, tliat has been ascertained concerning several persons suspected to have died of the plague, about the period of its breaking out in the town, amounts to this : — Demetrius Tzerepa, a Greek, w^ent out from the quarantine and lodged in the Jiouse of his relation, Athanasius Poliso Bakah. A few days afterwards liis father, Athanasius Tzerepa, also left the quarantine, and went to live in the same house to which his son had previously gone, whom he now found at the point of death. Constantine Adamief, a rela- tion of Poliso, died the 9th of August ; his son Spiro quitted the same house, and died on the 15 th. At this time it was unknow^n at Odessa, that for a period of a fortnight or three weeks previ- ously, many villages in the government of Podolia had been infected with the plague. On the 12th of August, a female dancer of the theatre died, after an illness of only thirty-sijc hours' duration: certain unusual appearances were observed upon her body, but they were supposed to be the effects of a common disease. \ '? i 314 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 315 Three days afterwards, another female dancer experienced the same fate, and a tliird was ill. These unusual and suspicious circumstances, combined with the fact of the subsequent death of two servants attached to the theatre^ and an actovy made a strong impression on the mind of the Duke de Richelieu, who had just returned from the Crimeii, and was on the eve of leaving Odessa for the army ; and he, in consequence, ordered investigations to be made as to the aggre- gate mortality which had recently taken place in the town ; when it was ascertained that a much greater number of persons, chiefly of the lower orders, had died in that than during the preced- ing months. Upon receiving this information, the Duke, at once, caused a meeting of tlie medi- cal men, resident in the town, to be held at his own house, for the purpose of obtaining their opinion with respect to the nature of the disease which was then evidently prevailing ; but they could by no means agree upon the subject. One said it was " a malignant fever, and, conse- quently, contagious;" another attributed "the petechia? which had been observed on the bodies of the dead to various concomitant circum- stances ; " a third affirmed that they ** had been produced by the injudicious exhibition of spirit- uous liquors." The physician of the hospital alone pronounced the word ^^ plague ;^ and this single word was sufficient to determine the Duke in ordering the measures which will be presently detailed to be instantly adopted. It must be I here obseiTed, that, with the exception of the occurrences already mentioned, there were no reasons for suspecting the presence of plague in the town, and this caused several of the mer- chants to murmur loudly at the precautions which were about to be taken. There were no sick on board the vessels in the harbour, nor in the qua- rantine : the Russian ambassador, at the Ottoman Porte, had given no alarming advice respecting the contagion wliich was said to reign at Con- stantinople, and there only died at Odessa from four to six persons daily. The Governor-general, liowev er, disregarded the objections which inter- ested individuals opposed to his views, and de- termined to resort to the promptest measures for the sake of ensuring the general safety. PRIMARY MEASURES TAKEN TO PREVENT THE SPREADING OF THE CONTAGION. The same day on which the word plague had been pronounced, namely the 26th of August, the churches, the Exchange, the tribunals, the Custom- house, and the theatre were closed. New regula- tions were enforced in the markets, with the view of preventing too intimate communication among the persons present at them. The town was di- vided into quarters, each of which had its com- missaries, whose duty was to examine every house and to report its state, twice a day, to the supe* rior authorities. At the same time the Duke estab- lished quarantines along the Boug, the Dniester, I 1^ 316 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. and the frontiers of Podolia, and the gover- nor of this province was requested to establish one also before Balta. The period of quarantine for individuals without baggage was fixed at twenty.four days, and twelve weeks for those who had merchandize, or certain effects subject to quarantine. This measure became more necessary, in consequence of its having been ascertained that the villages at some distance from Odessa were infected as well as the town. The Institute was put in quarantine. The un- fortunate persons who were attacked witli the contagion were at once conveyed to the hospi- tal, the patients labouring under other diseases having been removed to a barrack prepared for their reception ; another barrack was devoted to " the suspected," a term applied to all those having inhabited a house in which any person had laboured under the plague. Tliese mea- sures were undoubtedly judicious, but they were not sufficiently energetic to subdue the awful visitation, and of this the Duke was aware : he saw plainly that the only effectual means would be to close the town completely, but he had not at the moment the means of so doing. The regiment of Saratof; the only disposable force previously in the town, had left it on the first of August, and there remained but a battalion of newly-raised recruits, who, so far from affording themeans of efficiently controllingothers, required themselves to be kept in order. Recourse was, therefore, had to five lumdred Kozaks wlio PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 317 were sent for in great haste, and this was the whole force with which thirty-two thousand indi- viduals were to be restrained. PROGRESS OF THE CONTAGION. In spite of the precautions adopted, the amount of deaths rapidly augmented. The interior of every house could not be examined, and the ignorance and prejudices of the people prevented them from avoiding the contagion : thus, some embraced the bodies of their relations who had died of the plague, it being impossible to per- suade them that the disease could be conveyed by simple contact. Ignorance triumphed, and even the speedy and miserable death of these imprudent people was not sufficient to deter others from following their example. The mor- tality had now increased to fifteen or twenty persons per day ; almost all the quarters of the town were infected, but the disease raged with the greatest violence in those occupied by the lower orders. All affected with the plague were removed to the hospitals, and " the suspected'* separated from the rest of the inhabitants. Every method was taken to render the necessity of communication as rare as possible ; yet, though the contagion thus became checked in all the other quarters of the town, in that inhabited by the lower orders it had increased to an alarming degree, and there died not fewer than forty per- sons daily. The physician and surgeon of the military hos- S I 318 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 319 pital, the physician of the civil hospital, and his son, as well as the physician of the quarantine, Ijad already fallen victims ; there was no longer time for delay ; the Duke therefore determined to make trial of an extreme measure, namely, to put the whole town in quarantine, and to close it entirely by means of the Kozaks. THE TOWN IN QUARANTINE. On the 22d of November, 1812, the general quarantine commenced; without distinction of rank or situation, no one was permitted to leave his abode, except tliose employed in the public service ; and the doors of all the houses in the town were closed. Every person in an official situation of what- ever nature was furnished with a ticket. Provi- sions were conveyed tlnough the streets twice every day, escorted by an officer of the police, and the commissary of the quarter. The meats were dipped in cold water before being taken, the bread fumigated, and the money received in a bason of vinegar. All the houses in the town were inspected once or twice a day by the com- missaries of the quarter, and an account of the state of each rendered daily to the Governor, general. If a case of plague occurred in any house, the patient was immediately removed to the hospital, and the remaining inmates were conducted to a place of sur^'eillance, arranged so as to prevent communication taking place among them. Every housekeeper was compelled upon his own responsibility to visit all those under his roof, and to make a careful examination as to the state of their health at least twice a day ; and in the event of any being seized with even the slightest indisposition, immediately to report the circumstance, upon which the physicians visited the patient and decided upon the nature of the case. The Jews had an hospital devoted exclu- sively to them, but subjected to the same regula- tions and inspected in the same manner as the general hospital. Now the most heart-rending scene presented Itself. Solemn stillness succeeded the usual bustle of the town, — people were almost afraid to breathe, lest the contagion should be floating in the air,— fires were lighted, and odoriferous sub- stances burned before their doors : clothes were suspended in all the courts, to the windows, and even to the balconies ; two horsemen, posted in every street, paced it slowly in opposite direc- tions ; the functionaries addressed each other only at a distance ; letters, when received, were fumigated and delivered by means of a stick slit at one end, being refumigated before they were opened and read; all the exterior marks of friendship were forbidden, and no one dared to make enquiries after his relations or friends, for fear of hearing that they had died of the plague. This scene of desolation was only varied to be rendered more dreadful : a cart bearing a red flag announced the approach of those labouring under I f ^»K" 320 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. the plague, who were being removed to the hos- pitals ; a second, with a hhick flag, indicated its conveying to their last home those dead of the contagion ; galley-slaves, clad in dresses of oiled or tarred cloth, besmeared with oil and furnished with precautions of eveiy kind, conducted these dreadful vehicles, their lugubrious and disgusting costume adding the finishing stroke to the horror of the spectacle. During this reign of terror, the conduct of the Duke de llicheheu was above all praise : he was every where, and exposed himself unceasingly, returning only to his house to take a slight repast. Never did chief devote himself more completely to the safety of those confided to his care: he visited the plague hos- pitals ; assisted at all the deliberations of the commissaries of the different quarters ; went in person to the barriers, to convince himself that his orders were strictly executed ; exhorted the inhabitants to patience, as a means of shortening the duration of the visitation ; entered into the feelings of the poor, supplied their wants, and distributed articles of clothing by thousands : Odessa was but as one large suffering family, receiving from its common father the assistance which his heart led him to supply with a prodigal hand. * ^ The troops, however, w ho had been so far em- ♦ To give courage to the inhabitants of Petrikovka, who refused to bury those dead of the plague, the Duke de Richeheu seized a spade, and set them an example which no one could refuse to follow. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 321 ployed m enforcing the quarantine regulations tlirougliout the town, began now in their turn to be affected with the disease. They were, there- fore, directly removed to a camp pitched at a sJiort distance from Odessa, and the sick separ ated from the rest ; nor did tliis precaution fail 111 arresting completely the spreading of the con- tagion among them. A part of the town occu- pied by the lowest classes of the people, a quarter dangerous to good" order from its situation in a ravine, and the consequent impossibility of its being strictly inspected, had for some time ex- cited the attention of the Governor-general, who had even given directions for its destruc- tion, which, however, had been subsequently de- ferred until spring ; but the plague having mani- fested Itself there in the course of October, the inhabitants were conveyed to a manufactory on a neighbouring height, which was prepared for their reception, and the houses they had left were then set on fire and totally consumed. A few cases only of plague supervened among these people ; and thus, by this timely removal, the greater part were preserved from infection. There still remained an evil, which, in the ex- isting state of things, appeared almost irremedi- able, namely, the impossibility of inspecting dunng the night the quarter which contained the common labourers, the drivers of public vehicles &c.. their habitations consisting of very small houses, huddled together in the back courts, without any wall between them j so that to pre. I I i n 322 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. vent communication taking place among those who resided tliere would have required a guard to be placed at each door : it was in vain, there- fore, that during the night the streets liad senti- nels, who prevented any one from passing along or even entering them ; these could not observe what was passing in the before-mentioned by- courts, and in consequence the number of those who fell victims to the plague in this district was considerable; for, as before observed, no persuasion could overcome the ignorance and the prejudices of tlie lower orders. The phy- sicians, however, devoted themselves unceasingly to the care of the sick, — the commissaries set an equally good example in the discharge of their duties, — and the strictness with which the judi- cious measures adopted by the Duke de Riche- lieu were enforced, produced at length the desired effect : the contagion ceased to spread ; soon it diminished rapidly, and finally and suddenly it ceased altogether. But one single relapse occurred, from the imprudence of a woman. The town was re-opened on the 7th of January, 1813, after having been sixty-six days in general quar- antine. CONTINUANCE OF PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES. Although the inhabitants of Odessa were now allowed to go out into the town, yet they were not permitted to leave it. Two markets were establislied ; — one at the distance of a verst, tlie other of two versts from the town, and PLAGUE OF 1812-13. S23 double barriers erected. The commissaries had stations prepared for them, from which they were enabled to observe all that passed; the seller placed his goods witliin the barrier and withdrew ; the buyer then approached and took the object desired, laying down on a plate the price agreed upon, which the former then re- turned to fetch. All were strictly forbidden to pass the barriers, and no example occurred of any one being detected in so doing. No fresh instances of contagion had occurred in the town ^ the number of those still labouring under the plague was inconsiderable, and they were shut up in the hospitals. People, however, continued to expose their linen to the air, and to fumigate their papers ; and communication did not take place with that confidence with which it had previously to the occurrence of the pestilence. All the houses in which cases of plague had occurred were purified at two different times. The mode adopted was as follows : — The rags and useless lumber found in them were buined, and the clothes and articles of every description sent to the quarantine for the purpose of being purified in the ordinary way. The houses tliem- selves were thoroughly swept out and cleaned, and then chamber by chamber carefully fumi- gated with muriatic acid gas, according to the plan of Guiton Morveau. These fumigations, however, were not only employed in the infected houses, but also in those which were termed " suspected;" and in order to ensure accuracy Y 2 324 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. in tlie performance of these necessary measures, the Governor-general usually assisted at them in person. The brandy shops were diminished in num- ber, and the people forbidden to enter tliem, being directed to take their glass at the door, and with certain precautions. Those who recovered from the j)lague, on quitting the hospitals, were bathed, all their old linen destroyed, and new supj)lied ; they were then conducted to a place of observation, where they remained forty-two days, and finally were discharged in perfect health. The clothes of the "suspected** were also destroyed, to prevent the possibility of any danger arising from them. GENERAL SYMPTOMS OBSERVED IN THOSE WHO LABOURED UNDER THE PLAGUE. 1. Vertigo, pains in the head, varying in in- tensity, 2. Nausea, and vomiting; the matter ejected being of various kinds, sometimes blood. 3. A state of extreme debility, which pre- vented the patient from continuing in tlie erect posture, and which, if he attempted to do so, gave him the appearance of drunkenness. 4. A peculiar expression of countenance, not to be described from the im])ossibility of com- parison. In some it was red and glistening ; in others pale and dejected, according to the nature of the attack. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 325 5. The tongue was observed to be fun'ed, but with a red streak down the middle, which be- came gradually darker in proportion as the vio- lence of the disease augmented, and in its latter stages entirely black. 6. A burning and continual thirst. 7. Petechias, buboes, and carbuncles, differing in colour and size from those which occur in other diseases. 8. The pulse not synchronous in different parts of the body, being slower in the parts nearest the buboes, carbuncles, and petechias. 9. Swellings of the parotid glands occurred, but rarely, in some individuals. 10. Death supervened generally on the se- cond, third, fourth, fifth, or sixth day. If the patients survived the ninth or tenth day of the attack, they generally recovered. Various peculiarities were observed during the prevalence of the plague, and in the mode of its attack ; thus sometimes the patient ap- peared as if struck with the disease in an in- stant, and died after a few hours ; while in other instances the person was so slightly affected as to suffer little in his general health. Pregnant women almost invariably sank under it ; one or two only, who caught the disease, having reco- vered. Some expired after violent pain and intense suffering ; others experienced compara- tively little ; and some passed through the dis- ease so favourably, that, but for the appearance of one or more symptoms, it would have been Y 3 3^6 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. questioned whether they had laboured under it. Some Jiad only one or two of the usual symp- toms ; others, on the contrary, are said to have exhibited them all. A curious circumstance which was remarked, is that many of tliose who were first affected with the plague did not communicate it to others who came in contact witli them. Indeed the disease appeared to liave been at first mild, and afterwards to have increased in intensity from transmission up to a certain point ; beyond which, on the contrary, its farther propagation seemed to be attended with a sudden diminution of malignity. It was remarked, during the continuance of the plague, that almost all other diseases disap- peared*, and never before had so many women become pregnant. TABLES OF THE MORTALITY, ETC. Deat/ts. From the 29th of August, 1812, to the Ist of January, 1813, there died in the town At the lazaret • . « At the quarantine of the town In the fauxbourgs - . Total . 758 1326 299 249 2632 ♦ This has been always observed during the prevalence of other epidemics. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. Recoveries, During the before-mentioned period there recovered in the town - - . At the lazaret - • . At the quarantine - - . . . In the fauxbourgs • - • Total - 327 93 344 119 60 616 Total number of those who laboured under the disease in 1812 - - . . 3248 Died in 1813. From the 1st of January to the 17th there died From the 17th to the 24th - - . From the 24th to the 31st there were attacked with the plague combined with other diseases, and who died - - . . . From the 31st Jan. to the 7th of Feb. died From the 7th to the 15th From the 15th to the 22d * - * - Total died in 1813 Recovered - - - . Total infected in 1813 Total infected Total died Total recovered - «* . 12 2 5 1 2 2 24 59 83 3331 2656 675 The plague was recognised as such on the 28th of August, 1812, and was completely sub- * On the 22d there only remained 28 sick or " suspected," who had been removed to a purified lazaret. Y 4 3^8 TLAGUE OF 181^-13. dued by the 7th of January, 1813. Its dura- tion was, therefore, four months and a few days; during which period, out of a population amounting to 32,000 individuals, 265G died, giving a proportion of about one in twelve. The deaths which occurred in January and February were not owing to fresh cases of con- tagion, since they only took place among those who were either labouring under the plague at the time, or were among the " suspected." The cessation, therefore, of the pestilence may be fairly dated from the time when the town was declared out of quarantine ; at which period the cordon of troops around it was withdrawn : it was, however, in consequence of certain circum- stances, re-established on the 29 th of the same month, but after a few days finally dismissed. In reference to the individuals who were carried off by the plague, it is worthy of remark, that, with the exception of Jive physicians ^ two sur^ geonSy and a few respectable inhabitants of the town, all were of the loxver order. MEANS OF PREVENTION. The circumstances which took place during he plague just described appear to show that there is but one certain mode of escaping it, namely, to avoid touching or being touched by any person labouring under it, or by any in- fected article. Changing the clothes, and fric* tions with oil, as well as the use of oiled, painted, or tarred dresses, appear to have PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 329 1^^ k proved the means of preventing the contagion in those who had exposed themselves to it. Thus, to mention one instance in particular, the architect of the town carried his son, while labouring under the plague, in his arms, and pressed him to his bosom, but shortly after- wards changed his clothes ; the child died, but the father did not receive the contagion* Thus also the whole of those in the " suspected" houses, who were rubbed with oil, and then clothed in clean garments, were preserved from it. Of the galley slaves, who were besmeared with oil from head to foot every day, who wore gar- ments either painted or tarred, and made use of oiled gloves, none became affected with the plague ; notwithstanding that they removed all labouring under the disease, and buried those who died of it, from its commencement until its termination. Dr. Laban adopted this same costume, attended the plague patients with the greatest assiduity in the hospitals, and never fell sick. It appears probable that there are certain per- sons who are insusceptible of the plague, while others have taken it more than once. The fol- lowing is a most remarkable instance of the former : — " A Greek, or Moldavian," says the Marquis Castlenau, " who spoke Russ exceedingly well, came to my house one day, and begged me to present him to the Duke de Richelieu as a per- son who was willing to devote himself to the 330 PLAGUE OP 1812-13. It/ safety of others. < The comforts of religion/ said he, * cannot be administered to those la- bouring under the plague without exposing the priests to certain danger ; I am not a priest, but I am perfectly acquainted with the Greek reli- gion, and I can give consolation to the sick, and support and increase the faith of the dying. For the sum of 1200 roubles, I will agree to shut myself up in the plague hospital ; I will ex- hort the sick; and, independently of spiritual succour, I will offer them all such assistance as their situation may require, and which persons more fearful than myself could not afford them.' I confess I thought the man was either a mad- man or an enthusiast — I knew not which; and, under this impression, I advised him to address himself to the physician of the hospital, whose duty it would be to apply to the Governor-ge- neral on the subject. M. Capillo presented this man to the Duke ; his services were accepted ; he never quitted the hospital from the period he entered it until afler the cessation of the plague, during all which time he diligently attended the sick, and fairly gained his 1200 roubles.*' 331 CHAP. VI. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA ; OR, FACTS AND OPINIONS PICKED UP DURING A FIFTEEN MONTHS' SOJOURN IN THAT TOWN* ceremony op washing the feet. inauguration of the statue of the duke de richelieu. — monument to the same. — caitchailee and greek dance. — locusts. remarkable instance of conjugal de- votion. animal magnetism. making charpie. instances of despotism. circassians. various russian customs. dresses of brides. curious custom after an accouchement. — custom on christ- mas eve. custom on the last day of the year. curious custom in the south of russia on new- yea r*s day. anecdote of a russian slave. Howard's monument. — balls and masquerade at the governor-general*s. — monument to prince POTYEMKIN. — THE LATE WAR IN TURKEY. CEREMONY OF " WASHING THE FEET.*' Having been invited to attend the ceremony of " washing the feet,'* which had been an- nounced for performance this day by Demetrius, Archbishop of Kitchenef and Khotine, at an early hour in the forenoon a young friend and I pro- ceeded to the cathedral of Odessa, which, upon our arrival, we found to be nearly filled. The master of police, however, having received in* Si 332 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA, RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 383 structions to secure places for us, we were sliown uj) into the gallery, and from thence obtained an excellent view of all that passed below. The ceremony was preceded by the ordinary mass, which is well calculated to make an impression upon the ignorant. This being concluded, thir- teen chairs were arranged in the body of the cathedral, six on each side, and the remaining one between them, towards the west end : a table was subsequently placed within the rows of chairs, and upon it a silver ewer and basin. After liaving been embraced by the Archbishop, in the sanctuary, twelve priests entered, two and two, according to their respective ranks, and seated themselves in the chairs. When all had taken their places, the Archbishop came among them ; and while he was engaged in divesting himself of his crosses and liis outward robe, thus exhibiting his under dress of wliite silk, embroid- ered with gold, each of the fat priests might be obsened as busily occupied in taking off the stocking from his right foot. When these pre- liminary and necessary arrangements were com- pleted, the Archbishoj), pouring water from tlie ewer into the basin, and with a long jack towel hanging roiuid liis neck, began to wash the foot of the first priest, and having dried it with his towel, proceeded to the next, and so on, till all had undergone those operations; each priest, upon his foot being washed, kissing the Iiand of the Archbishop. When this part of the cere* mony was performed, his Eminence connnenced re-robing himself with great parade. He first put on his upper habit, and then suspended from his neck the ornaments, one by one, kissing each, and crossing himself as he resumed it. Finally, having crossed himself once more, and kissed his archbishop's mitre, or rather cap, he put that on too. Singing and chanting took place, at inter- vals, during the ceremony, and on its being com- pleted. The Archbishop then retired to the sanctuary, while the table and chairs were re- moved ; and, after a short period, having added to his dress another robe of purple, (a costume which he always wears in his carriage, when going to or coming from the churches,) he again left the sanctuary, and, preceded by the priests who had officiated with him, passed down the middle of the cathedral in order to reach his carriage ; but this proved by no means an easy task, for the people rushed forward from all parts to touch him, and to receive his blessing. The master of police, profiting by his official situation, first advanced up to the Archbishop for that purpose; soon aftei^wards, a little boy jumped up suddenly and caught hold of his hand ; a host of women and others now rushed upon him, so that he was completely hustled by them. One of the gendarmes, also, piously availing himself of the opportunity afforded by his duty of keeping open the path, seized his hand, and, like all the rest, was graciously favoured with the blessing of the holy Demetrius. 334 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. SSS INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. May 4th, 1828. — This day having been ap- pointed for the inaguration of the statue of the Duke de Ilicheheu, recently phiced upon the new Boulevard, at about half-past eleven a. m. I drove thither for the purpose of witnessing the ceremony. The weather liappened to be ex- ceedingly fine, and the assemblage of spectators so great, that it appeared as if all the inhabitants of Odessa were present. The whole of the ships in the bay were moored in front of the Boulevard, and profiisely decorated witli flags, &c. The statue itself was concealed by a covering of canvass ; while at the four corners of the railing, by which it was surrounded, were displayed the colours of England, France, Austria, and Russia. A battalion of the regiment of Oufo was drawn up in front of the statue, and in its immediate vicinity were ranged the professors and pupils of the Lyceum of Richelieu ; as also Count Langeron, Count Severin Pototskii, the foreign consuls, &c. Shortly afterwards the present Governor-general, Count Vorontzof, attended by the Civil Governor of Odessa, the clergy, and the other authorities, arrived from the church, where they had been attending a mass for the repose of the deceased's soul. The ceremony commenced by reading the act by which the Emperor Alexander had granted permission to the inhabitants of Odessa to raise a monument to the memory of their deceased Governor- i general ; after this, the Reverend P. Kounitsky, superior archpriest of the cathedral, mounted a rostrum erected for the purpose, and delivered an oration in Russ, suitable to the occasion, in the middle of which, the covering before referred to was suddenly withdrawn, and the statue exposed to view, when the troops immediately saluted it ; the band struck up, and the vessels in the bay below fired their cannon, the priest soon after finishing his oration. After him, M. Sicard, one of the oldest inhabitants of Odessa, delivered an energetic discourse in the French language, in praise of the deceased. Two of the professors of the Lyceum then eulogized the departed Duke : the one in Russ, and the other in Italian. These having concluded, the band recommenced playing, and the troops defiled before the monu- ment. The Governor-general afterwards gave a dejeune a la fourcliette at his own house to the civil and military authorities of the town ; at which, after the healtlis of tlie imperial family,. " the memory of the Duke de Richelieu ** was given and drank with enthusiasm. In the even- ing the pedestal of the statue was illuminated. MONUMENT TO THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. The widow and relations of the late Duke de- Richelieu have, it is said, engaged a sculptor at Paris to execute a monument consisting of a sar- cophagus placed upon a large and elevated pe- destal, in which the remains of the Duke are to. iil 336 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. «. * be deposited, with two figures above, represent- ing the Duke expiring in the arms of* Rehgion. Its sides are to be ornamented with four bas rehefs representing the foundation of Odessa, the conchision of the treaty of Aix la Chapelle, the taking of Ismail*, and the establishment of the hospital of St. Andrew, at Bourdeaux, to which institution the Duke assigned the annual sum of 50,000 francs, which had been presented to liim as a mark of the public gratitude, in the name of the French nation. The entire monument will be seventeen feet liigh,andthe figures eight feet and a half The work will be executed in white marble, and is to be erected in the church of the Sorbonne. The model in plaster, of the same size as the monument, is said to be des- tined by the Duchess de Richelieu for the in- habitants of Odessa. If this report be true, a * During the storming of Ismail, General Lascy, when hard pressed by the enemy, observing a corps arrive very opportunely to his assistance, advanced towards the officer who commanded it, and imagining him to be a Livonian, addressed him in German, paying him the most flattering compliments upon the occasion ; which the latter, with his accustomed modesty, acknowledged in the same language. After the siege was concluded, the General caused this young officer to be sought for, in the hope of ascertaining his name, which he regretted exceedingly he had himself neglected to ask, as it precluded the possibility of recom- mending him warmly to the favour of Prince Potyemkin, which he was desirous of doing; but he was nowhere to be found. One day, however, he was astonished at meeting the supposed Livonian at the house of the Wince, and he then proved to be the Duke de Richelieu. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 337 temple of appropriate design, materials, and workmanship, should be forthwith erected by the local government of Odessa for its reception on the site of the present miserable statue of the new Boulevard, and be called " The Temple of Riclielieu ;" for, had there been no Duke de Richelieu, there would, in all human probability, now liave been no town of Odessa. CAITCHAILEE AND GREEK DANCE. During the Easter week there is a fair held close to tlie fortress at Odessa, very much re- sembling those in England; it is termed the Caitchailee.* On the ground where it is held, is a circle containing roundabouts and other machines of similar description ; and in the cen- tre is a raised platform, upon which the band of some regiment quartered in the town is stationed, and plays frequently during the day. The higher orders drive round this circle in their carriages, officers of police being present to preserve order, while the lower classes fill up the intervals on foot Booths of different kinds, some for drink- ing and smoking, or for the sale of provisions, and others serving for theatres and various exhi- bitions, like those of our Bartholomew fair, are situated beyond the drive. I was present at this * Caitchailee is a Russian word, the literal signification of which, I am informed, is " a wing.". — It is the Muscovite denomination for what we term at our English fairs " Round- abouts." (\ 338 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. exhibition in 1828 ; but what amused me the most, was a party of Greeks, consisting of about fifteen or sixteen, who were dancing, in a ring, their national dance. Some of them had hand- kerchiefs in each hand, which their neighbours laid hold of, and thus united, they danced round, performing several variations as they went. One appeared to be the leader, and whatever antic he chose to put in practice, all the rest endeavoured to imitate. In the centre of the dancers stood one of their companions with a small cask con- , taining some kind of liquor, with which they frequently refreshed themselves. Their music consisted of a violin (played upon like a violon- cello) and a guitar, the performers being two Greeks, who sat upon the ground without the dancing circle. LOCUSTS. July 23d. — Yesterday evening, while riding in the vicinity of the town, I encountered a flight of locusts, at least a mile in length ; they were very near the earth, and obscured the light so much that I could scarcely see my way for them. This morning an immense cloud of them settled in Odessa. I saw it on my return from the country, it was then high in the air, above the town, and appeared like a long black streak extending over it from one extremity to the other. By the time I reached the Governor- generaFs house, the locusts had settled in the streets, covering various parts of them some RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 339 inches in depth. It is incredible the noise which they make on taking wing when aroused, as by a carriage, for instance, passing near them when they have settled ; and in some places they be- come occasionally drifted by the winds in such quantities that their putrefying carcasses are after- wards productive of serious consequences. REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF CONJUGAL DEVOTION. During my residence at St. Petersburg, I was professionally consulted in a hopeless case of dis- ease affecting the child of the unfortunate Prince Volskonsky, who is at present an exile in the mines of Siberia ; and my subsequent residence m Russia was the cause of my becoming ac- quainted with the following remarkable instance of conjugal devotion in his wife. It amply de- serves to be recorded, and will, I am sure, excite the sympathy of the reader. Prince Volskonsky and Major-general Orlof married two daughters of General Raiefskii, an old and distinguished officer in the Russian service. In the conspiracy of 1825, which has been already so often alluded to, both the Prince and Orlof were, it is sup- posed, concerned ; the latter having been induced to take a part in the plot through the persuasion and example of Volskonsky. On the discovery of the conspiracy, secret orders were instantly despatched from St. Petersburg for the appre- hension of the Prince, who was seized at night, in his own house at Odessa, by two gendarmes, z 2 340 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. and Imrried off to the capital. Orlof was like- wise arrested and thrown into prison ; but after six months' detention was discharged, xvithoKt ever having been brought to trial ; he was, how- ever, deprived of his military rank and honours, being also ordered never, in future, to stir be- yond the limits of his own estate in the interior. Prince Volskonsky was not so fortunate : in due time he was tried by the commission appointed for that pui-pose, and condemned to deatli. Upon this, the old General, overwhelmed with grief, reminded the Emperor of his own former ser- vices, and besought his Majesty, in the most affecting terms, to spare the life of his devoted son-in-law\ His prayer was granted, and the sentence of Prince Volskonsky commuted to banishment in the mines of Siberia for life.* After the departure of the unfortunate exile, his wife, disregarding the remonstrances and dissua- sions of her friends, requested permission of the Emperor to follow her husband, which was per- emptorily refused ; and she was informed that if she attempted to join him, she would herself be deprived both of her title and her estates. The threat was utterly unheeded ; (what, indeed, is there that a woman will not sacrifice for the ob- ject of her affections ?) she accordingly set ofi^ * When a Russian nobleman is sent to Siberia, he is de- prived at once of all rank, becomes a slave, and is habited like one in a sheep-skin wrapper. His name is also changed, and no one, perhaps, but the governor of the province knows his real appellation or his former rank. 341 I and reached her husband, nobly determining to be the companion of his chains and his misery. She is, however, only allowed to see him twice a week, for three hours at a time. As for the wretched Prince, I learned, when at St. Peters- burg, that he was then employed in carrying coals to feed the fire of one of the furnaces in the mines, being also heavily ironed. He had just petitioned the Emperor to allow his irons to be removed, but compliance with his prayer had been refused. Prince Volskonsky had a hand- some house at Odessa, near the fortress; and Orlof was building a large mansion on the new Boulevard, when this melancholy occurrence took place. It remains, as he left it, unfinished, and is indeed now rapidly falling to decay. I never passed it without thinking of its owner, who is said to be distinguished for scientific attiiinments ; nor that of the unhappy Prince, without being forcibly reminded of his fate, and unconsciously paying him the tribute of a sigh. ANIMAL MAGNETISM. The low state in which the medical profession is at Odessa will be sufficiently proved by the fact that the chief medical officer of the hospital there is an advocate and practiser of " animal magnetism," and is said to treat the majority of his patients with this specific. I had not been more than twenty-four hours in the town, before General Sabainaef, a distinguished Russian oflScer, z S »42 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. who was evidently labouring under organic disease of the liver, contracted from arduous services in Persia, and who had been for a long time under the magnetic treatment of this person, requested to see me, and asked whether in my opinion the magnetism would cure him, or not, which I gave in the negative ; whereupon he chose to place himself under my care. Imme- diately on my departure, the former attendant paid his visit, and strongly urged the General to allow his own mode of treatment to be continued, declaring that it would be dangerous if he did not, it being necessary to extract the magnetism gradually. But his Excellency was firm in his refusal, observing, that as he had never been sensible of any magnetism entering his body, he was quite sure he should feel no inconvenience from its remaining there. This is a species of charlatanism and imposture which I always, during my residence abroad, opposed from princi- ple ; yet I must in candour own, that some per- sons have assured me they had been much benefited by it; but who were they? Weak nervous females, and in one instance a general, whose inordinate credulity is notorious. Tliese are the kind of persons on whom the professors of this quackery employ their boasted magnetism: they pretend it can only avail with certain indi- viduals, and this is true ; for whenever they meet with one whom they believe unlikely to be im- posed upon, they always declare him not a fit subject for the experiment : thus it is they keep RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 343 up the farce. I have expressed my willingness to be magnetised, and to declare freely if I felt any effect from it, having previously mentioned my unbelief in any such nonsense ; my offers were, however, declined, as I was gravely assured it could not benefit me ! But it may be asked, has the employment of the magnetic process ever effected a real cure ? I believe it may, though I never knew such an instance, yet if so, it has been only through the agency of the mind ; and that diseases may sometimes be cured in this way, is a fact notorious to medical men, of which it would be easy to produce numerous remark- able and well authenticated examples. " Animal magnetism^** as it is absurdly called, has been made the means of defrauding and deluding the sick, as well as the pretence for committing the most immoral practices, and can flourish only in a country where the people are credulous, super- stitious, and ignorant. MAKING CHARPIE. From the commencement of the Turkish war, it was the fashion for ladies to make charpie, to be used at the various hospitals, in dressing the wounded soldiers. This was the universal em- ployment : the Empress made chai-pie, and the Empress-mother made charpie, and oj course all the ladies of the court followed their example. Even the poor gentlemen were enlisted into the service, and sometimes for the sake of being z 4 344 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 345 polite, joined in the labour. Square bits of old sheets and napkins, scissors, and a basket, were to be seen on every table ; and before dinner and after it, in the morning and in the evening, all were busily employed in unravelling musty linen. I cannot say I thought it the most elegant or the most becoming amusement at all times, and in all ])laces, liowever laudable in some might be the motive by which they were actuated ; I was, on the contrary, rather inchned to beHeve, that the really charitable would have done much more good in subscribing their money towards purchasing soft English lint, than in manufac- turing such an abominably coarse and ill adapted article for the dressing of painful and irritable wounds as charpie. But it was not the fashion to do so, and tlierefore I thouglit it best to keep my opinions to myself. However, I may now speak my mind freely, without running the risk, either of the knout or Siberia. I shall there- fore not hesitate to declare, that in spite of all this attention, and patriotic devotion displayed by the ladies to the wants of the wounded mili- tary, the latter were in fact completely neglected. No sufficient hospitals w^ere prepared for their re- ception — no provision made beforehand of the indispensable " materiel** required for their treat- ment ; — as when the army first began to march, no magazines had been provided for its subsist- ence ; so when the sick and tlie wounded were on the eve of pouring into Odessa, it was for the first time thought proper to give directions for \ Jiospitals and medical stores to be prepared for their use. On the 4tli of July, the inhabitants were desired to form hospitals at their own ex^ pense; and on the 8th of the same month, an official notice appeared in the Journal d'Odessa, calling upon them, in addition, to supply « shirts, sheets, pillows, stockings, nightcaps, charpie, rollers,* and shoes," all of which it was stated were wanting! while the medical men resi- dent in the town were also expected to volunteer their personal services, in the treatment of the sick. These facts will give some idea of the manner in which things really go on in Russia, and from them must be argued either the greatest w^uit of money in the imperial treasury, or the grossest mismanagement in the government and the several departments. INSTANCES OF DESPOTISM. " The existing form of government in Russia,*' as Bishop James observes, " is a pure Oriental despotism ; " but it must not be supposed that the Emperor alone is despotic, all being so who have the power, of which the following are in- stances. During the summer of 1828, while the Imperial court was at Odessa, Colonel was suddenly sent away, in charge of a gendarme, to Kief, with orders never to return nearer to Odessa than the distance between those towns. The occurrence excited a great deal of talk at the time, from various circumstances. The Colonel 846 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. was guilty of no political offence ; but a report existed that he had formerly been criminally in- timate with a married lady of high rank, resident in Odessa, and that this connection had been followed by the birth of two children, which, it was also said, he had threatened to claim ; whereon the friends of the lady employed their influence with the Emperor to procure his banish- ment from the town ; and, in consequence, this was at once effected in the manner before men- tioned. No one can for a moment defend the Colonel's conduct, though the lady being of much higher rank and older than himselfi it may be ima- gined that he was not the most culpable of the two : but what a monstrous system is this ! No sooner has a man become obnoxious, from any cause, to those in power, than secret represent- ations are made in the highest quarter ; and, with- out trial, — without, perhaps, the accused knowing what he is charged with, or having the means of defending himself^ — he may be suddenly seized by di gendarme f placed in a telega, and, at a moment's notice, hurried off to Kief, or perhaps to Siberia ! Who but must shudder at such reckless tyranny ? The* following occurrence is, in some respects, of a similar character : — One night, early in the last year (1829), an officer of lancers, while waltzing with a young lady at one of the Go- vernor-general's balls, happened to fall with her, or at any rate the circumstance appeared acci- dental. The next morning, or very soon after- wards, he was hiuried off, as I was informed, in RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 347 custody of a gendarme, notwithstanding that he owed at the « Hotel du Nord " a considerable sum. Where he was sent to, I never had an opportunity of learning. The third instance of despotism I shall mention is that of a father towards his son, and which could have taken place in no other country. The present Count , now resident at Odessa, was imprisoned in a monastery for a period of twenty years, by order of his own father ; the reason of which was as follows. The old Count, during the life- time of his wife, kept a mistress, which rendered the Countess exceedingly unhappy ; and the son, having strongly advocated his mothei-'s cause, and expressed his opinions pretty freely, with respect to the misconduct of his other parent, was, by the tatter's order, secretly conveyed to a monastery, where he remained imprisoned, until his fathei-'s death restored him to liberty. The horrors of so sudden and protracted a con- finement have considerably affected the present Count's mind : he seldom goes into society ; and his dread of again experiencing similar treatment is such, that he has caused subterraneous passages to be constructed in his garden, communicating, by secret doors, with his house, into which, when he perceives persons approaching the latter, he often retires, until they have taken their de- parture. CIRCASSIANS. December Jtth, 1828. — About noon, a party of noble Circassians, consisting of the sultan, or 348 BESIDENCE AT ODESSA. chief, witli seventeen officers and sub-officers, was introduced to the Countess Vorontzof and several visitors, who had assembled at the house of the Governor-general for the purpose of see- ing them. They formed part of a hundred be- longing to tliat nation, who had been selected as the Emperor of Russia's body guard j but who were at this time going to Turkey, for the purpose of acting in ambusli against tlie straggling Turks, who caused considerable loss to the Russian army. Two of these warlike strangers were in their full national costume, with some additions which it has receiv^ed since their entrance into the service of Russia. Tiiey were lieutenants, and were equipped as follows : — The head of each was defended by a small steel helmet, orna- mented with gold, from which descended a steel ring mask, covering all but the eyes as far as the top of the breast ; and beneath this was another coat of chain mail, reaching as far as the upper part of the thighs ; over this was worn a red coat, edged with broad silver lace, the sleeves only extending midway between the shoulder and the elbow, where the chain-armour arain appeared, and continued to the extremities of the fingers : the back of the fore-arm, throughout its whole length, was defended by a strong piece of iron ; and upon each breast, as also on each shoulder-blade, was a circular plate of silver, about the size of a dollar. Their trowsers were of scarlet cloth, ornamented with silver lace along the side seams, terminating in high black chamois RESIDENCE AT ODESSA, 349 leather boots, embroidered with silver thread, the feet being made of red Morocco leather. On the left side, slung by a narrow belt from the waist, was a bow, the lower half being in a case ; and on the right was suspended the quiver, one arrow being j)artly withdrawn from the rest, ready for use. Each had a sword, also a pair of pistols and a dagger. They wore, in addition, sQver wings, similar to those of subaltern officers in the Russian army, which have been attached to their dress since the Circassians have been in the service of the Emperor, and which, it must be allowed, by no means harmonise with their na- tional costume. The sub-officers were variously clothed, some being in blue and others in green, with fur caps. The sultan appeared in the un- dress uniform of blue cloth, with broad silver lace round the collar, the bottom of the jacket, and down the sides of the trowsers. A close skull-cap of green velvet, divided into compart- ments, like a melon, with silver thread, composed his head-dress ; and on each breast he had several little pouches, formed also of green velvet, for the reception of charges of powder and shot. All present were particularly struck with the smallness of their feet, with which, and their " pretty red boots," the ladies were enraptured. After the Circassians had examined the contents of the saloons, and the visitors had examined the Circassians, the latter having received an invita- tion to dinner on the following day at three o'clock, descended into the court below, where, iW 350 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. mounting their horses, they gave us an exhibition of their skill in equestrian exercises, with tlieir mode of attack and defence ; after which they took their leave. December 5th. — At the hour appointed, the Circassian nobles came galloping into the court yard, belter skelter; and, after some delay in dismounting and giving their horses in charge to their attendants, were ushered up stairs, being, to-day, mostly habited as the sultan was yester- day. They sat down at table with us, and man- aged exceedingly well, excepting that they ap- peared a litte awkward at the use of their knives and forks. It was amusing to observe, in the countenances of several among them, the intense curiosity with which they surveyed the various novelties by which they were surrounded. This, however, did not prevent them from making a hearty dinner ; and, on retiring afterwards, they appeared highly gratified with their visit. VARIOUS RUSSIAN CUSTOMS. I}resses of Brides, During the court mourning for the late Em- press-mother, I observed, at one of tlie Governor- general's soirees, Madame Fonton, who had only been married a few days, arrayed in white, the other ladies, without exception, being in black : upon enquiring the reason of this, to me, singular distinction, I learned that it is a custom in Russia for brides never to wear any but white or coloured RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 351 dresses for one year after their marriage, whatever mournings may happen within that period. Curious Ctislom qfier an Accoiichement. While sitting one day with the Prince and Princess Galitzin, at their house in Odessa, the former showed me a Turkish ducat, which his lady had just received as a present from some female acquaintance, in observance of a custom prevalent in Russsia. The Princess had been recently confined; and it appears it is usual ' among the Russians for the friends of a lady thus circumstanced each to present her, when sufficiently recovered to receive visits, with a ducat of some description or other. The Princess Galitzin had received six that morning. Custom on Christmas Eve. Tlie custom of giving toys and other presents to children is much more common among the Russians than with us. Indeed there are certain days upon which in Russia almost every person is expected to make such offerings to the children of his friends and relations, for instance, on their birth-days and fete-days, and on Christmas eve ; while the various donations are exhibited with great ceremony and parade. Perhaps, however, I cannot better exemplify what usually takes place in high life upon this latter occasion, namely, Cluistmas eve, than by describing what 352 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. I witnessed myself at Odessa, on tlie evening in question, at the house of Count Vorontzof. As soon as it was dark, a young sapling, about six feet higli, i)lanted in a box of earth, and covered with artificial roses and other flowers, was placed in one of the large saloons. Round this, on four tables, (tliere being always as many of these as there are children,) were arranged the presents that had been sent by the friends and relations, appended to each of which was a paper, indicat- ing for whom it was intended, with the name of its donor. Some of the gifts, also similarly labelled, were suspended to the artificial tree before men- tioned. A great number of lighted wax tapers were then placed on the tables, and round the room, the doors of which, when thus illuminated, being thrown open, the \isitors and the children of our host were admitted to view and admire the various presents, and expatiate upon their respec- tive beauties. Refreshments were afterwards handed round, and the evening passed in a social and agreeable manner. On the fete-day or birth- day of a child all the presents are placed upon a table, and lefl for the inspection of those who may call for some days. The love of show is one of the prominent characteristics of a Russian ; and wide, indeed, is the difference between the tenour of his actions, according to the various degrees of publicity by which they are accom- panied : I am well acquainted with a noble- man of that country, who upon certain occasions, where he believed his conduct would be univer- RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 353 sally known, has displayed considerable liberality; wlrile upon others, where he hoped for conceal- ment, he has exhibited the most despicable meanness, injustice, and ingratitude. Ctistom o7i the Last Day of the Year. The custom of seeing the old year out and the new one in, as it is often termed, prevails very generally in Russia, although in this country it has comparatively fallen into disuse. The Gover- nor-general gave a dinner on the 31st of De- cember ( o. s. ), followed by a supper, when immediately after the clock had struck twelve, a blast of trumpets announced the departure of the old year, and all the company present pledged each other in bumpers of Champagne, to the happiness of the new one. Curious Custom^ in the SoiUh of Russia, on New- Yeai^s Day, Jan. 13th, (Jan. 1st, o. s.) 1829. — While I was sitting at breakfast this morning, a servant of the Count entered, and, after uttering a few words in the Russian language, threw a handful of millet and oats into my face. I was, of course, surprised at tliis conduct ; but guessing it to proceed from some custom prevailing here, I took it in good part. He then said that the Countess Vorontzof wished to see me immedi- ately. I left my rooms accordingly and went into the Count's cabinet, where I found himself, A A 354 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA, 355 tlie Countess, their cliildren, and one or two of the ernployesy at breakfast. His Excellency, rising upon my entrance, shook hands, and wislied me a liappy new year ; after w^hich he threw a handful of millet and oats at me. I had hardly got rid of these, before the children and the other individuals present renewed the attack in a similar mannner. Count Vorontzof informed me, in the course of conversation subsequently, that this is a custom prevailing only in the Ukraine and the south of Russia, which are corn countries. Througliout the whole day millet and oats were ke})t in constant readiness, and every one who entered the house, of whatever rank or sex, was assailed as I had been. ANECDOTE OF A RUSSIAN SLAVE. The following anecdote will strikingly exem- plify the general character of the Russian slaves. Baron Franck, Colonel in the Guards, had given particular directions to his servant always to fold up the new spaper, which he was accustomed to re- ceive regidarly, with the title outwards ; but the latter, regardless of his master's injunctions, con- tinued to employ his own method. At last the Baron became angry, and calling for him, " Why,'* said he, " do you always fold up the paper in this way ; have I not frequently told you to do it otherwise ?" — " Please, sir,*' answered the ser- vant, w^ith the greatest liumility, ** you never beat me for it ! " It is to be observed that the Baron is not a Russian, but a native of Germany, which may account for his considering the excuse offered by his sei-vant as sufficiently curious to deserve relating. Perhaps, also, it may show why a remedy for short memories, apparently so efficacious in the estimation of Russian slaves, had not been previously administered. Howard's monume! t. Two monuments have been raised at Cherson, in honour of our ever-to-be-respected philan- thropist John Howard, which are described, by Clarke and Lyall ; but, as far as I know, it lias not been yet mentioned that neither of them are placed over the remains of that excellent man. It lias lately been proposed to erect a third, by subscription, above the spot where he was buried, which is said to be accurately known. I felt great pleasure, as an Englishman, upon the plan being mentioned to me at Odessa, in contribut- ing my mite towards the execution of so laudable a design, and trust that some future traveller will be able to inform the world that the proposed monument has been completed. balls and masquerade at the governor- general's. Jan. 19th, 1829.— At about nine o'clock I descended into the grand saloon, where I found the company nearly all assembled, and the band had commenced playing. Almost immediately A A 2 ^/ 356 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 357 after two masks entered, the one habited as a Russian coachman, the other as a Swiss peasant ; the former I recognised at once, by the voice, as a secretary of the Count, and the other I after- wards ascertained to be one of his aides-de- camp. Next came bustUng into the saloon a tailor, seated upon his shopboard, with all his im- plements about him. This character was well sustained by a young English gentleman (an employd in the Russian service), and excited a good deal of amusement. The tailor was suc- ceeded by an aged French marquis, an exquisite of tlie old school, ably supported by Captain Blaremberg of the Engineers. The company now, as well as the masks, commenced dancing quadrilles ; when, after a short time, they were interrupted by a huge sugar-loaf gliding in among them. This strange visiter excited in- finite merriment ; till the Countess Vorontzof, discovering a small window w Inch had enabled its inmate to pilot himself about the room, tied her handkerchief over it, when immediately out popped a little demure old man, who joined in the dance, which his arrival had interrupted, with an activity as comj)letely contrasting his anti- quated appearance as his diminutive size did that of the gigantic lump of grocery from which he issued. Soon afterwards we were attracted to the door by cries of PadijeCy padj/ee (Take care), and Vodee^ vodee (Water), from a couple of mougies or peasants (one of the Count's secretaries and an officer of the Guards), with a barrel on a truck, who came in and passed from one end of the saloon to the other ; the end of the barrel at last tumbled down, and a harlequin, with dif- ficulty, got out, and made some awkward attempts at agility. There was one other character well adapted to exercise the risible faculties, namely, that of a man with a mask on the back of his head as well as one over his face, a waistcoat frill, &c. being also placed both behind and before. The alternate obeisances which this bifronted being made in opposite directions afforded admir- able specimens of the ridiculous, and were highly applauded. In the course of the evening the coachman before mentioned, and Mademoiselle Kirico, a Greek lady, danced the Russian pea- sants' national dance with great spirit ; and the ball concluded with a curious kind of Greek dance, which seemed to the spectators as if it would have no end. Feb. (ith. — Dinner being served up about six o'clock, a large party sat down to it ; and after- wards, when the coffee had been handed round, the visitors retired to a small theatre which had been fitted up in one of the rooms, where a French comedy was acted. The various parts were sustained by the Countess Vorontzof (in a splendid hussar's uniform), Mesdames Narisch- kine and Boulgofskoi, Baron Rainaud, Governor Narischkine, M. Scherbinin, Captain Blaremberg, General Pouchkine, &c., the prompter being M. Spada the Censor. When the piece was concluded, the company returned to the grand A A 3 358 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 359 \) saloon, where dancing commenced, and after supper, which was served up at twelve o'clock, it was recommenced, and continued with un- abated spirit tor several hours. MONUMENT TO PRINCE POTYEMKIN. As St. Petersburg is a city, so is Russia a coun- try, of extremes; and tlie truth of this position may too frequently be found in the varied fate of the living, and not rarely in the varied estimation of the dead : as an instance of the latter, it may be sufficient to mention Prince Potyemkin. After being the idol of one sovereign, receiving the most unbounded favours, and dying in the pleni- tude of power, his remains were subjected to all possible ignominy by the next ; during a third reign, his exploits remained unrecorded and his name forgotten; while, at the commencement of a fourth, a magnificent monument is to be erected to his memory. Immediately after the death of the Prince, his body was conveyed to the town of Cherson, where it was aflerwards deposited in a small church within the fortress. As soon, however, as the Emperor Paul mounted the throne, he, with his characteristic xcisdom and proprieti/y sent an order to the authorities of that place to disinter and cast it into the nearest hole that could be foiuid : but Dr. Lyall assures us that the Imperial mandate "was never obeyed; that the pretence only was made ; and that it still reposes within the walls of the church, though nobody can or will tell in what place. The coffin was removed, and all inscriptions in me- morial of Potyemkin were obliterated; but a new grave was dug, and covered over with flags which had been purposely taken up ; and there the mortal remains of this once great Prince were consiffned to eternal oblivion." Timd, however, the great worker of events, had long caused party spirit to evaporate, when Count Vorontzof, becoming allied by marriage to the relations of Prince Potyemkin, possessed sufficient influence with the late Autocrat of Russia to procure His Majesty's sanction to the plan which had been formed by several members of the family, of rais- ing a monument at Cherson, in honour of the de- parted Prince. A subscription was accordingly entered into among them to procure the neces- sary funds for carrying the undertaking into effect; and the present Emperor having also granted his assent to the proposed measure, the construction of the monument will be forthwith commenced. It is to consist of a bronze statue, after the design of M- Martos, representing the Prince, sword in hand, placed upon a pedes- tal of white marble, the height of the figure beino; the same as that of the celebrated Farnese Hercules. As the following particulars relative to the last moments and death of Prince Potyemkin, originally supplied by his nephew Count Samoil- lof, who was himself present at the time, have not, I believe, appeared in an English garb, A A 4 860 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA* RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 361 and may possibly prove interesting to the reader, they are here subjoined : — In July, 1791, Prince Potyemkin, being taken ill at Jassy, determined to return immediately to Nicolaief, with the hope of deriving benefit from change of air; but scarcely had he travelled forty versts from the former place, when, becoming suddenly worse, one of liis nieces by whom he was accompanied persuaded him to leave his carriage and recline upon a caq)et, which she had caused to be spread upon the grass under cover of a tent; and there he received a courier from the Empress Catharine, who was the bearer of despatches from Her Majesty, an- nouncing the pleasing intelligence that she had honoured him with fresh proofs of her fa- vour. His strength failed him, but his mental powers retained their accustomed energy; and he proved in these his last moments that his attachment to his sovereign was real and unaf- fected. Wrapped up with thoughts of her alone, he seized her portrait, which hung suspended from his neck, and, regarding it fervently for some time, pronounced these words : — " Great Catharine, I die while offering you my last homage." — He moved but once afterwards, then fell into the arms of his niece, and expired* THE LATE WAR IN TURKEY. It appears to be a generally received opinion in England, that the late Turkish war was I popular among the Russians; but from all I heard and saw, while resident within the auto- cratic dominions, I am inclined to doubt the correctness of this belief. That the war was agreeable to certain individuals, who reaped, or hoped to reap, important advantages from it, is perhaps true ; but I by no means think that, even previously to its actual commencement, it was popular with the majority of the influential nobility of the country, or subsequently with the higher classes of military officers ; more par- ticularly, as I happen to knoxv that much dis- satisfaction was produced in many quarters from circumstances which took place during the early part of its progress. Previously to our leaving St. Petersburg, it was well known in the court circle that the Emperor would be present at the future seat of operations, whenever the war might break out; and I was confidently assured that Count Vorontzof was to have the command in chief of the army, and that any difficulty which might arise from his being junior to other generals would be easily obviated by the omnipotence of the Emperor ; scarcely, however, had we reached Odessa before it became evident that these an- ticipations were not to be realised, and that others had more influence with the source of power. That dissatisfaction prevailed among the officers of all ranks, after their Imperial master joined the army, will scarcely be doubted, perhaps, when I mention that one of them, who had just returned from Varna, informed me that the / 362 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 363 Emperor's coiuliict on many occasions was most luisty and impetuous, and that he was continually interfering with the arrangements of the Com- mander-in-chief: while, he added, " it is well known that His Majesty never had any oppor- tunities himself of gaining practical experience in war, and therefore what could have induced him to imagine his own opinion more correct than that of an old general, who had previously been twice before the walls of that very fortress, is most unaccountable." Another officer observed, " the Emperor is so accustomed to issue an ukase in St. Petersburg, and to have it obeyed as a matter of course, that he expects impossibilities to be performed in war, if he only order them to be attempted." Thus a great loss was uselessly sustained at Varna ui)on one occasion, in conse- quence of this determination to command, when he even insisted upon the General-in-chief repri- manding the troops, although that officer was of opinion that they had done all that men could perform. It was also mentioned that, at Varna, Count Vorontzof had ordered all officers when on duty only to wear foraging caps, instead of cocked hats and feathers, the latter having rendered them remarkable objects for the Turkish riflemen, and thus occasioned considerable loss of life ; but as soon as the Emperor arrived, he commanded the officers to appear in full uniform, and the cocked hats and feathers to be resumed ! From these and other facts we may fairly con- clude that the Emperor was not more j)opular with the army after his first campaign than be- fore ; and of this he most probably became him- self aware, for on the return from Varna, I heard that it was confidently expected His Majesty would not again take the field, and the result has fully proved this opinion to have been cor- rect. It is not a little remarkable, that the first campaign, conducted by Russian generals, under the Emperor in person, was dilatory, and in many points a complete failure ; while the second, con- fided to the unaided talents of a German^ proved as rapid as it was eminently successful, and untarnished, or at any rate not so obviously tarnished, by the employment of gold in aid of the sword. I shall never forget the bitter irony with which an officer of rank, just returned from the army, spoke to me respecting the taking of Varna. "The Emperor," said he, " was surround- ed by a set of military sycophants, whose inordinate flattery was so palpable as to become ridiculous : thus it was always said by those courtiers, * Your Majesty has taken Varna,' * when Your Majesty took Varna,' &c. as if," continued he, " it had been the Emperor who reduced that place, and not Count Vorontzof!* Had we waited for the former to take Varna, it would have been in pos- session of the Turks at the present moment ! " He also alluded, in similar and equally sarcastic * My informant has not here done justice to Jusuph Pacha ! Did he contribute nothing towards the taking of Varna ? \r f M 364 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 365 I) terms, to the fact of a medal having been struck in Prussia upon the fall of Varna, with the bust of the Emperor Nicholas on one side, instead of the General's who commanded during the siege. Hence it appears the military were not pleased at having their sovereign in the camp ; and that the ministers of state liked it no better, may be easily imagined, when it is remembered they were kej)t in consequence on board a vessel near Varna, where they had to submit to eveiy pos- sible inconvenience *, while they no doubt knew that affairs would have gone on much better without their presence, and the interference of the Emperor, and they might therefore as well have been with their families at St. Petersburjr. o There is another reason why, among the well- wishers of their country, the presence of the Emperor with the army could not be viewed with satisfaction, because all the internal busi- ness of the empire becomes, therefore, unavoid- ably neglected. As in Russia almost every thing must receive the personal attention of the sovereign, it is evident what delays in the admin- istration of justice must take place if he be two thousand versts or more from the capital, and the papers requiring his signature thus have to travel twice that distance before they can be acted upon. This was one cause of complaint against * One of these ministers told me he had to write some- times official documents while his knees served Iiim for a table. the Emperor Alexander. During the latter years of his reign he was almost constantly travelling, either in foreign states or in distant parts of his own empire : this led to immense arrears of public business, produced, in conse- quence, numerous and serious evils throughout the country, and paved the way for such general dissatisfaction as at last to terminate in conspira- cies against his life. Sometime back liberal principles were spreading rather extensively, not only in the Russian army, but in the empire at large, and their origin is to be traced to the campaigns of 1812 and the succeeding years. These necessarily led the Russian officers into foreign countries, and afforded them the oppor- tunity of comparing the latter with their own, when the obvious imperfections of the despotic system followed in Russia could no longer be concealed. The first aspirations of liberal feel- ing thus excited were afterwards expanded and stimulated into comparative activity by the friendly communication which took place in France between the English and Russian offi- cers. I have heard these latter speak with enthusiasm of the happy time they passed in France, and of the many worthy Englishmen they met there ; while it appears that the lower orders of the Russian military found that coun- try so much more agreeable than their own, and the diet with which they were supplied by the French government so superior to the allowance of black bread upon which they had been accus- 366 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 367 tomcd to starve in Russia, that (as I liave been told on the very best authority) when the Rus- sian army was ordered to return to St. Peters- burg, desertion among the men occurred so frequently, that at last it became necessary to adopt the severest measures to check it ; and as many as twenty soldiers have been ordered by the Commander-in-chief to be shot on one morning, these having been found guilty of deserting for the third time, which, according to the Russian military code, is declared a capital offence when the army is in a foreign country. To the increase of liberal opinions has been attributed by the Government the con- spiracy of 1825 ; and to these opinions, it is reported, the present Emperor is a most decided enemy : in proof of which I may mention, having myself been informed by persons of high rank, that His Majesty strongly objects to the chikben of the Russian nobility being educated abroad, and particularly in England. However I may feel bound to protest, from principle, against such illiberal sentiments, I view them, as an Englishman, with satisfaction ; being convinced that, so long as despotism prevails in Russia, England need never view her with alarm. CHAP. VIL SOME ACCOUNT OF THE IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAH 1828. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. ARRIVAL OF THE EMPEROR AND EMPRESS AT ODESSA. TOWN ILLUMINATED. COLOURS TAKEN FROM THE TURKS PARADED ABOUT THE TOWN. EMPEROR LEAVES ODESSA FOR ISMAIL. TE DEUM FOR THE PASSAGE OF THE DANUBE. FETE CHAMPETRE GIVEN TO THE EMPRESS BY COUNT VORONT- 20F. RETURN OF THE EMPEROR. ARRIVAL OF LORD HEYTESBURY. THEIR MAJESTIES LEAVE FOR NICOLAIEF. RETURN TO ODESSA. EMPEROR LEAVES FOR VARNA. empress's proposed tour in the CRIMEA. RELIN- QUISHED THROUGH THE INTRIGUES OF HER SUITE. PRESENTATION OF THE PORTRAIT. DEPARTURE OF THE EMPRESS FOR ST. PETERSBURG. DESERVED ENCOMIUMS ON THEIR MAJESTIES. ARRIVAL OF THE EMPEROR FROM VARNA. — DEPARTURE FOR ST. PETERSBURG. It is seldom that an Imperial visit is made to Odessa ; it creates much bustle when it occurs, and gives rise to an infinity of good. Roads are repaired that would otherwise have remained neglected, nuisances are removed, public build- ings restored and beautified, prisons and hos- pitals inspected, accounts adjusted, and many a guilty conscience is more than ordinarily sen- sitive upon the occasion. The foregoing ob- servations were suggested to me from what I witnessed at Odessa in all the public depart- 368 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 369 I) ments previous to the arrival of the Emperor and Empress, when I will venture to affirm there was not any person holding an official appointment, from the Governor-general down to the meanest employey who did not feel anxious. May 29th, 1 828. — The Governor-general hav- ing received official notice that at tlnee o'clock this day the Emperor and Empress would enter Odessa, His Excellency, dressed in the full uniform of a general, was in attendance at his new house to receive them at that hour. The route by which he had given directions that their Majesties should be conducted was in front of the theatre, and along the whole line of the new Boulevard, at the further end of which is situated the Governor-general's house. At half past three, having proceeded to the house of Madame Kissilef, on the Boulevard, I found assembled the Countess Vorontzof, Mesdames Kissilef, and Leon Narischkine, with Counts Stanislaus Po- totskii and Matusavitch ; the two latter of whom I had frequently the honour of dining with at St. Petersburg. About a quarter to four Colonel Hoffiuan of the gendarmes rode rai)idly by, infonning us as he passed, that their Majesties were just behind. The Countess, elegantly dressed, then stepped forwards, and took her station in the middle of the balcony, the rest of the company arranging themselves on either side of her. The Master of the Police now appeared at full gallop, and almost immediately after the Emperor and Empress, in an open calash, fol- lowed by three or four other carriages containing their suite. When passing the house of Madame Kissilef) their Majesties recognised the Countess Vorontzof, and both moved to her as they were rapidly hurried along. On reaching the Count's mansion, at the entrance of which His Excel- lency w^as in waiting, the Emperor having descended from his carriage, embraced the former ; and at the moment he stepped within the house door, the vessels in the bay below, moored in lines for the purpose of presenting an agreeable display from the Boulevard, com- menced firing an Imperial salute. This had been previously arranged, and did credit to those intrusted with its management. The Boulevard was thronged with the higher and respectable classes of the residents at Odessa, the weather uncommonly fine, the sea unruffled, — and the whole formed a most pleasing spectacle. After dinner their Majesties sent for the Count's two children to the palace^ as I must now call it, where they had the honour of being presented to the Emperor and Empress, with whom they re- mained some time. In the evening all the houses in Odessa were brilliantly lighted up ; and at the end of the Boulevard, facing the palace, was a triumphal arch, also illuminated, which, seen from the opposite end, had a pretty appearance. The quarantine displayed similar manifestations of public joy; and lighted tar B B 370 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 371 barrels placed all along the pier produced a very grand effect May 30th The Emperor this morning, ac- companied by the Governor-general, went to inspect the couta, or country house, preparing for the residence of the Empress, visiting after- wards the hospital and the quarantine. In the evening the town was again illuminated. May 31st. — Intelligence was received that a skirmish had taken place on the Black Sea, in which Admiral Greig captured four Turkish vessels with six colours ; and the latter having been forwarded to Odessa, were presented to the Emperor, and at noon paraded about the town in the following processsion : — Two trumpeters ; the Master of the Police (on horseback) ; six mounted gendarmes ; six ditto ditto, bearing the captured colours ; two troops of Kozaks of the Black Sea, with lances couched. The same day the Emperor addressed an autograph letter to the Governor.general, informing him of His Majesty*s intention to present one of the cap- tured colours to the town of Odessa, to be pre- served in the cathedral ; the other five were sent to St. Petersburg. In the evening the town was a third time illuminated, and at midnight the Emperor left Odessa for Ismail. June 8th. — The above-mentioned Turkish colour was this day carried to the cathedral with great pomp and deposited there. At eleven o'clock A. M., the mayor of the town and a de- putation of the merchants assembled at the I' house of the Governor-general, and after having received from the hands of His Excellency the colour, and the Imperial letter indicating its destination, proceeded to the cathedral in the following order: — The mayor bearing the colour, one of the merchants carrying the Imperial autograph upon a silver salver, the corporation, a detachment of gendarmes and Kozaks closing the procession. Upon arriving at the cathedral, where the Governor-general and the Civil Go- vernor were in readiness, the latter receiving the colour and the Imperial letter from their respective bearers, delivered them to the high priest, by whom they were deposited in the cathedral ; a Te Deum followed, and the cere- mony concluded with prayers for the safety of the Emperor and Empress, and all the Imperial family. PASSAGE OF THE DANUBE. June 10th. — News having arrived here last night of the passage of the Danube by the Rus- sian troops, with the capture of twelve pieces of cannon, and a number of prisoners, a Te Deum was ordered to be performed this day in conse- quence ; accordingly at 11 o'clock in the fore- noon, accompanied by a young Russian friend, I drove down to the catliedral, and gained access as usual to the gallery, where we had scarcely taken our places before the Empress entered, leading the youthful Grand Duchess Olga Nico- laievna by the hand. Her Imperial Majesty was B B 2 372 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. S73 attired in a rich lace dress over a white satin sHp, with white kid gloves, and a blue riband round the waist : a superb row of diamonds en- circled her neck, and an elegant tiara, splendidly set with brilliants and other precious stones, adorned her head. She looked pale and ill, and I imagined somewhat flurried, at the prominent part she had to sustain. Those who have seen the beautiful picture by Dawe, representing the Empress and her two eldest children, must be forcibly struck with the change which ill health has made in her appearance. It is said, that on hearing the roar of the artillery, employed to jjuell the disturbances that took place on the ac- cession of the Emperor Nicholas, Her Majesty fell into convulsions, which lasted for a lonir time, and which returned repeatedly during the two subsequent years : indeed, even now% there is a nervous tremour of the head, the sequel, no doubt, of the before-mentioned malady, which is deeply to be regretted. The Empress stood on the floor of the cathedral, nearly in the centre, with the Grand Duchess, an interesting little girl, about nine years of age, on her left ; on her right hand was the Countess Vorontzof, and be- yond the Grand Duchess, to the left, were Mes- dames Kissilef and Naryschkinewith the Countess Orlof ; this distinguished group being flanked on either side by one of the demoiselles d'honneur. The rest of the body of the cathedral was filled entirely with civil and military oflficers, no one being admitted there unless in uniform. The i ceremony commenced by the Governor-general advancing within a few feet of Her Majesty, and reading aloud the official account respecting the passage of the river, &c., after which he retired to the left of the Empress : the mass now com- menced. Her Majesty and the Grand Duchess remaining on their feet all the time that it con- tinued, except in one instance, when it was ne- cessary to kneel ; the only accommodation pre- pared for them consisting of a small piece of carpet spread upon the floor : the whole lasted about an hour, and at its conclusion a salute of cannon was fired from the vessels in the port. The deportment of the Empress was gracefully dignified, yet condescending in the extreme to all around her ; and when the delicate state of her health is remembered, and that she had thus publicly to go through the forms of an adopted religion, the trying nature of the duty imposed upon her will be sufficiently evident. After this period, in consequence of the re- peated successes of the Russians, Te Deums became of almost weekly occurrence at Odessa, so that from their frequency they ceased to pro- duce any interest ; I shall therefore allow those that were subsequently performed to pass by unnoticed. On the I6th Her Majesty inspected the Bo- tanic Garden. 26th. — The Empress left the mansion of the Governor-general, and took up her residence at B B 3 374 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 375 the couta of Baron Rainaud, which had been prepared for Her Majesty's reception. fI:te champetre given to the empress. On the birth-day of the Empress, July 13th, a fete champetre was given by the Governor- general, in honour of the occasion. About six o'clock in the evening I drove to the couta, at the outer gate of which I found a party of gen- darmes and Kozaks, and upon the top of the cliifT which bounds the gardens, at distances of about twenty feet, Kozaks were also stationed. De- scending from the cliff, the ground gradually in- dining to the edge of the sea, I reached the centre of the gardens about half-past six, the hour fixed for the arrival of Her Majesty. The grounds of Count Vorontzof's couta are separated from those of the couta wherein the Empress re- sided by a deep ravine, over which a wooden bridge had recently been thrown for Her Ma- jesty's accommodation : about fifly yards from this bridge, on the road by which the illustrious visiter was to arrive, a triumphal arch, covered with boughs of trees, rushes, &c. had been con- structed ; further on to the lefl of the road was a theatre, formed of similar materials, with seats placed in front. In another part of the gardens, on the edge of the sea, was a tent, composed of spears and Turkish draperies ; and on returning from hence, towards the entrance of the grounds, an open space was found, where refreshments were to be served ; still proceeding in the same ™ direction, a spot next presented itself, which having been cleared of trees and levelled was covered with a Turkey carpet, for the purpose of dancing, if Her Majesty should permit this amusement : on the left, again, was another small theatre, and further on, up the hill, the couta itself appeared, having a large balcony or viranda overlooking the whole of the gardens and the Black Sea. Near the bridge, on an eminence, the band of a regiment of lancers was stationed, and just in front of the triumphal arch before mentioned about fifty young ladies, from the ages of six to twenty years, were arranged on each side of the road, the whole of them being habited in white, but divided into parties by a difference in the colour of their hats, as also in that of the bodies and trimmings of their dresses, which with some were blue, and in other in- stances pink. The youngest were placed first, or nearest the bridge, and the eldest furthest from it. At the head of this interesting band were the daughters of the Governor-general and the Port-captain, the former being eight years of age, the latter about six. The young ladies were succeeded by those more advanced in life, who took their stations in the same order, on either side of the road ; and beyond these, the gentle- men were similarly arranged. About the time appointed. Count Moden, master of the ceremo- nies to the Empress, appeared at the triumphal arch, and announced the approach of Her Ma- jesty to the Count and Countess, who were in B B 4 376 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 377 I waiting there, and who in consequence proceeded to the bridge ; when shortly afterwards Her Imperial Majesty was seen leading the Grand Duchess by the hand, accompanied by the Count and Countess Vorontzofi and followed by the Countess Orlof and Prince Volskonsky, the mar- shal of the Imperial household, as well as the four demoiselles cPhonneur, When the Empress had arrived nearly at the place where the young ladies were stationed, the little Countess Voront- zof) an interesting child, bearing a garland of flowers, advanced to meet Her Majesty, made her obeisances, and presented the garland, which was most graciously received : the Empress then, with the wreath in her hand, proceeded onwards, the ladies falling back on each side to allow her to pass, and afterwards joining in the procession two and two, the gentlemen following in the same manner. On the Empress appearing, the band struck up, and continued playing martial airs until Her Majesty had arrived at the theatre, when they left their situation, and occupied an- other eminence in advance, being thus in readi- ness to welcome Her Majesty's presence in a different part of the grounds. The Empress now seated herself in the centre of the first bench, having the Grand Duchess on her right hand, and the Countess Branitskii, the grand-maitresse de la couvy on her left, the rest of the ladies occupying the remaining seats, and the gentle- men standing behind. The actors and actresses of the Odessa theatre, aided by its orchestra, now amused their distinguished audience, by the per- formance of a few scenes from an opera of Ros- sini, which lasted, perhaps, three quarters of an hour, when the Empress and the company rose. Her Majesty was next conducted to the tent on the sea-shore, the band being near, but concealed by trees : three warriors in armour, with lances in their hands, now took their stations on the beach, and a fourth (Mademoiselle Mariconi, prima donna of the Opera,) appeared in a boat on the sea, who being rowed to the shore and landed, one of the scenes from Rossini's opera of Tancred was then performed. The subject was happily selected, the real scenery supersed- ing the humble substitutes usually employed in theatrical spectacles, and Mademoiselle Mariconi displayed her usual skill on the occasion. About twenty minutes having been thus occupied, the Empress proceeded to that part of the gardens where tables had been laid out : one prepared for the Empress was furnished with gilt plate ; the Countess Branitskii, and a few ladies of the highest rank, also sitting at this table. Opposite to the latter, was another much larger, where the demoiselles d^honneuvy and the ladies generally, took tea, or other refreshments ; the gentlemen being supplied afterwards. On the conclusion of the repast, the Empress was escorted to the place intended for dancing. Her Majesty's per- mission being obtained for the purpose. As soon as she was seated, the musicians commenced playing, and waltzes and quadrilles were danced fl 378 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 18^8. 379 for at least an hour and a half, during which time refreshments were occasionally handed round, such as ices, negus, &c. So long as the Empress remains seated, the dancing continues, her rising being the signal for it to cease. The evening had now become dark, and the triumphal arch was covered with lamps; the different paths through the gardens, over hill and dale, were also illuminated, while Chinese and Argand lamps were interspersed among the trees. Opposite to the couta was moored a frigate, having lamps affixed to the masts, yards, and hull : this had a very pretty effect from the gardens. Her Ma- jesty at length rose, the dancing ceased, and she was attended to another little Gothic theatre, where the entertainment consisted of music and singing; on the termination of which Her Ma- jesty entering a carriage, and accompanied by some of the elder ladies, was conveyed up the hill to the couta, and shortly afterwards appeared in the balcony, where supper had been laid out for the Empress and court. This being nearly con- eluded, the health of Her Majesty was drunk by all the company standing ; upon which " God save the Emperor" was played, and at the same instant rockets being sent up from behind the couta, by way of signal, a salute of 101 guns (36 pounders) was fired from the frigate lying opposite in the bay. As soon as the salute was concluded, the Governor-general, in a speech highly complimentary to myself, did me the honour of presenting me to the Empress : I was most graciously received ; and Her Majesty was so condescending, as to converse with me some time most affably, after which I retired, and an- other gentleman was also presented ; when a short interval having elapsed. Her Majesty and the court rose and took their departure. The next morning the Countess Vorontzof re- ceived a most gratifying letter from the Empress, thanking her for the entertainments of the pre- ceeding evening, with which she expressed her- self highly pleased. July 30th. — M. Filler, one of the professors of the " Lyceum of Richelieu, " having composed and sent to the Empress an " Ode on her Birth- day," Her Majesty presented him with a diamond ring, as a mark of her approbation. August 3d. — The fete-day of the Empress- mother and other branches of the Imperial family happening to fall on this day, the reigning Em- press gave an entertainment at her couta, where, in the evening, the gardens were illuminated and fireworks discharged. August 8th. — The inhabitants of Odessa were apprized of the unexpected arrival of the Em- peror, on board the Flora frigate, from Varna, accompanied by the Grand Duke Michel. His Majesty landed at the couta of the Empress, who was most agreeably surprised, having had no pre- vious intimation of the visit of her illustrious husband. August 10th. — The Emperor and Empress proceeded to their town residence, where Lord Sfgar-rr — 380 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 381 ■t \i \ II Heytesbury, His Britannic Majesty's Ambassador Extraordinary had the Iionour of being presented to their Imperial Majesties. Lord Heytesbury was afterwards a frequent visitor at the Governor- general's ; and I had many opportunities of hear- ing the opinions entertained respecting this dis- tinguished nobleman, by various members of the court circle, who always spoke in admiration of him ; the mild and condescending, yet dignified manners of His Lordship securing the respect of all, from the Emperor downwards. August 25th. — In the evening the Emperor and Empress embarked on board the Outckha yacht for Nikolaief; where their Majesties stopped two days, during which they inspected tlie Ad- miralty and its slips, the Observatory, the Depot for Maps, and the School for Pilots, as well as two private yards for ship-building belonging to Messrs. Perofsky and Serebrenoi. On the slips of the Admiralty were found two vessels of 64 guns, and one of 84, nearly ready for launching. On those of M. Perofsky a vessel of the line building, and materials for another three-decker about to be commenced; in M. Serebrenoi's yard a frigate, a corvette, and several transports in the progress of building. The Empress visited the School for the Daughters of Sailors; and the Emperor having reviewed two battalions of the army of reserve under the orders of General Count de Witt, their Majesties returned on the 28th to Odessa. Sept. 2d.— The Emperor left Odessa in the / Flora frigate, for the purpose of proceeding to Varna. Sept. 3d. — The Emperor returned to Odessa at night most unexpectedly, and shortly after set off by land for his former destination. His Ma- jesty's rapid return was privately said to be in consequence of a report that some Turkish Cor- sairs had passed the Bosphorus, and were cruising in the Black Sea. It had been for some time the intention of Her Majesty to visit the Crimea, several preparations being made for the journey, and even the day fixed for her departure. However, this visit to the Crimea was not relished by the suite in ge- neral : some wanted to return to their families at St. Petersburg, while others had various, and not the most creditable, reasons for wishing the excursion to be relinquished ; they therefore de- termined to prevent it if possible, and they suc- ceeded. I happen to have my information from the highest and most unquestionable authority ; and I know from facts which afterwards occurred, that what I have stated and have yet to state on "the subject is true. In pursuance of the above determination, the Empress was indirectly given to understand that the Crimea was unhealthy, being also reminded that the Emperor Alexander died at Taganroc, after a tour in that province ; and several other means were employed in order to influence Her Majesty's mind; and accordingly, on September 4th, it was announced that the Em- press had given up her intention of visiting the I' \^ 382 IMPERIAI- VISIT TO ODESSA ifcp Crimea, and, in consequence, had fixed the 20th instant for setting off to St. Petersburg, thus af- fording a striking proof how much even absolute sovereigns themselves are ruled by those whom they are supposed to govern. Sept. 6th. — The Empress inspected the In- stitute pour les Demoiselles Nobles in the town, and expressed her approbation of the progress evinced by the young ladies. Sept. 8th. — Her Majesty this day honoured the Museum with her presence, and examined, in detail, the antiquities which it contains. Sept. I6th. — The Empress visited the Lyceum of Richelieu, and expressed to its director. Dr. Orlai, her high approbation of the state in which she found the establishment. After having gone through every part, the august visitor inscribed her name in the book of the Lyceum, wliere are also the autograph signatures of the late and the present Emperor of Russia. PORTRAIT OF THE EMPRESS. Sept. 17th. — This being the fete-day or name's day of the Countess Vorontzof, the Empress, with her characteristic kindness, sent the Countess Her Majesty's portrait, set in diamonds, so as to form a bracelet. It is a most elegant as well as valu- able piece of jewelry. The portrait represents Her Majesty in her coronation robes, with the crown on her head : it is of an octangular form, about an inch and a half long, by one inch in width, surrounded with diamonds the size of an h IN THE YEAR 1828. 383 ordinary pea. The bracelet is formed of large links of silver, thickly studded with smaller bril- liants. The presentation of the portrait is con- sidered the highest compliment that can be paid to a lady : it is accounted as the first order, being, moreover, regarded as an especial mark of the high estimation which the Imperial donor enter- tains of the transcendant merits of the individual on whom it is conferred. The Emperor's por- trait, which is given to gentlemen, is, of course, held in a similar liglit with that of his august consort, and is as rarely bestowed. In the pre- ceding reign Count Araktcheef *, the founder of the Military Colonies, was alone honoured with this mark of his Imperial master's approbation ; and since the present Emperor's accession, one person only has received the portrait, namely. Count Kotchubey, Lord President of the Council, who I have always heard described as a talented and excellent man. Sept. 19th. — The Empress this day received the ladies who had been presented at court, with all the local, civil, and military authorities, to take their leave on the occasion of Her Majesty's ^ contemplated departure from Odessa. After- wards the foreign ambassadors, and the other diplomatic characters who happened to be in the town, had an audience of Her Majesty for the same purpose. * This nobleman, who was the bosom friend of Alexander, would now, as I am informed, be sent to Siberia if he were within the Russian frontiers. Such are the vicissitudes which take place in Russia ! "j 384 IMPERIAL VISIT TO ODESSA IN THE YEAR 1828. 385 \i' ti Sept. 21st. — This morning the Empress, after hearing mass in the chapel of the palace, attended divine service in the cathedral, and then com- menced her journey to St. Petersburg. Her suite consisted of the Countess Orlof, with four demoiselles d'honneiir, the Prince Volskonsky, minister of the Imperial household, and Count Moden, graiid veneur. Previously to departing. Her Majesty presented the Civil Governor with 15,000 roubles, to be distributed by him among the sick soldiers in the town, upon their discharge from the hospital. The Empress sojourned in Odessa less than four months ; and during that time her unaffected piety, goodness of heart, and condescending manners, gained her the respect, the esteem, and the love of all. Her Majesty is, in every respect, a real blessing to Russia; and it is to be hoped that the bright example dis- played by herself and her illustrious husband, of conjugal affection and fidelity, may lead to a more virtuous line of conduct among the Russian nobility of a future day, than that which, I am sorry to say, is too often adopted by those of the present. October 18th. — About four o'clock this morn- ing the Emperor, accompanied by Count Voront- zof, reached Odessa, having been brought ashore by the Port Captain in a cutter, and about a couple of hours after landing departed for St. Petersburg. The vessel which had conveyed His Imperial Majesty from Varna encountered a most terrible storm on the passage, and among other injuries had sustained the loss of her topmasts ; — in fact, all on board were exposed to the most imminent danger. In the same vessel arrived also Count Nestlerode, General Benkendorf, Ge- neral Prince Trubetskoi, with Count Orlof Deni- zof, aides-de-camp generals to the Emperor, and Count Stanislaus Pototskii, Grand Master of the Ceremonies, who, after sojourning some time at the Govemor-generaPs, proceeded to St Peters- burg to join their Imperial Master. c c ^)j 386 CHAR VIIL AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. THE EMPEHOR REQUESTS COUNT VORONTZOP TO COMMAND AT VARNA. — THE LATTER LEAVES ODESSA. LORD SINGHAM. TAKING OF VARNA. OBSERVATION OF THE EMPEROR RELATIVE TO THE TAKING OF VARNA. STATEMENTS OF THE QUARTERLY REVIEW PROBABLY CORRECT. BY WHAT MEANS WAS VARNA TAKEN? STATEMENTS OF VARIOUS PERSONS. STATEMENT OF COUNT VORONTZOF. — REPORTED CRUELTY OF THE CAPI- TAN PACHA. RUSSIAN PLUNDER. EMPEROR's LETTER TO COUNT VORONTZOF. — PRESENT OF A GOLDEN SWORD AND A FIELD-PIECE. — JU8UPH PACHA. — ARRIVES IN ODESSA. MANNER IN WHICH HE WAS TREATED. — AT- TENDS THE GOVERNOR GENERAL's BALLS. THE PACHA*S CIRCASSIAN WIFE DINES WITH THE COUNTESS VORONTZOF. — EUNUCH. OPINIONS OF THE RUSSIAN LADIES RE- SPECTING THE PACHA. — QUARTERLY REVIEW'S STATE- MENT RIGHT. — TRICK PLAYED UPON THE GOVERNOR GENERAL. INSTANCE OF DESPOTISM. THE CAPITAN pacha's medical ATTENDANT AND THREE OTHER PRI- SONERS ARRIVE IN ODESSA. LODGED IN THE GAOL. DREADFUL CONDITION. — ORDERED TO SIBERIA. — OB- SERVATIONS THEREON. August 28th, 1829. — Upon returning this evening from the country, I was informed that Count Vorontzof had received a letter from the Emperor, requesting him as a favour to take the command in chief of tlie troops employed in the PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 387 siege of Varna. This news was speedQy con- firmed by the Count himself, whom I shortly afterwards saw, and who told me that he should leave Odessa in consequence on the following day. August 26th. — After having taken an early dinner. Count Vorontzof embarked from the military port in one of the ship's boats, and was speedily conveyed on board the ** Standard" frigate, the vessel which had been ordered to land him at Varna. His senior aide-de-camp, the Port-captain, and a few other persons, in- eluding myself; followed in another boat. The Count was received on board by the officers and men under arms, drums beating, &c. ; the guns had been loaded for the purpose of firing the usual salute, but His Excellency gave orders that this ceremony should be dispensed with. On board, among other persons, I met Lord Bing- ham, with whom I had had the honour of dining several times at the table of the Governor-general. His Lordship was going as a volunteer to the siege of Varna ; and I afterwards learned that, among other military duties, he had joined in a charge of cavalry against the Turks, and that the Emperor had conferred upon him the insignia of the order of St. Vladimir. From the time Count Vorontzof took command of the troops until the Russians occupied Varna we received various reports as to the progress of the siege, which, it is evident, continued much longer than was at first anticipated even by himself j for, in c c 2 A^ 388 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA* 389 a letter from His Excellency, received at Odessa on the 15th of September, in forty hours from Varna, he said that the taking of that fortress might be daily looked for ; and in another, dated the 29th of the same month, he mentioned that the garrison was to be summoned, for the last time, to surrender on the 29th, and that, if not then given up, the assault was to take place ; yet the official report of the capture of Varna did not ultimately reach Odessa until the afternoon of the 15th of October, when it was made known to the inhabitants generally by the discharge of cannon from the vessels lying at anchor in the bay. I have been informed, on the best autlio- rity, that one cause of the delay which occurred in the taking of Varna was the intrigues which, as is usual with the Russians, were going on at head-quarters ; that, in consequence of the many idle persons who were there, the measures of the General actually commanding were frequently frustrated, and that but for this interference the place would have been in possession of the Rus- sians long before it was.* This appears to be confirmed by what 1 have been assured passed between the Emperor and Count Vorontzof when the former landed at Odessa on the 20th of Oc- ♦ It was stated lately, in an English provincial paper, that a gentleman, who had recently passed through the Russian military positions in European Turkey, " expresses his astonishment that the Russians were so long in effecting the reduction of that fortress (Varna). * It was,* he states, * ill fortified, and ought to have been reduced in a very few days* > »» tober ; His Majesty observing to the latter, " I shall never forget what you have suffered for me at Varna/* This could not allude, according to my informant, to the bodily fatigues experienced during the siege by the Count, for these were of short duration, and mere trifles to an old General; but to the cabals and intrigues which had been carrying on, all the time he was at Varna, against himself and his measures. This, it is said, is always the case with the Russians during a war. The soldiers are excellent, inasmuch as they are able and willing to face danger and undergo fatigue, and ready to attempt whatever they may be ordered to execute ; but the officers are described as being perpetually in a state of in- subordination, — the juniors caballing against their superiors, the Generals against the Com- mander-in-chief; and I was told it was to keep the superior officers in order that the Emperor was himself present with the army ; for it may be set down as an axiom with respect to Russia, that nothing goes on well where the Emperor is not The writer of a most excellent article on " St. Petersburg,'* in the Quarterly Review, mentions " that he can state, on good authority, that when the battering train was brought up before Varna it was found the shot would not fit the cannon, and that they were obliged to send to Moscow and Petersburg for a supply." Whether this was or was not the case, I cannot say (although it is so like what generally happens in Russia that I think it cannot be questioned) ; but / G c 3 390 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS know that, when the army first began to march, in consequence of the negligence, or rather ras- caUty, of those whose duty it was to have pro- vided proper magazines, the soldiers were without provisions, and the horses without fodder.* At an after period, when the troops were before Varna, the want of forage was so great, from other causes, that the horses even of the Com- mander-in-chief were obliged to be fed with rushes and other plants gathered from the mo- rasses, and with green corn, when any could be found standing in the fields. Great numbers were lost in consequence of this scarcity, and a great part of the oxen which were employed in the transport of provisions and other necessaries for the army, died of starvation. Sir James Wylie informed me, on his return from the army, that three thousand oxen were lying dead by the road-side from that cause. I shall now come to the question, " By what means did the Russians gain possession of Varna ? " To this I answer, unhesitatingly, By gold, through the agency of the second in command, Jusuph Pacha. My frequent communication with military officers and other persons who had been at Varna during the siege, has convinced me of the truth of what I have just asserted. Notwithstanding the cau- * Upon my arrival in England, I learned from the news- papers, that a general had been shot in consequence of the circumstances here alluded to ; but such secrecy was ob- served at the time of its occurrence by the Russians, that I never heard of it at Odessa. RELATIVE TO VAKNA. 391 tion with which some of the former would fre- quently talk upon the subject, for fear of com-^ promising themselves, yet they could not cOn(:?eal the truth, or at any rate their opinions^ Thu^j an officer of rank, one day, while conversing with me in my own rooms about Varna, upon my mentioning the name of Jusoph Pacha, imme- diately exclaimed, in an under tone, " trahison^* and then abruptly changed the subject. Ther6 could be no question here as to whom the word " trahison ^ applied ; and it is also certain that no one could know better than that officer (for reasons which I shall, for his sake, conceal) what was really the case. An eye-witness of what took place within the walls of Varna, from the commencement of the siege until its termination^ informed me that Jusuph Pacha delivered up that fortress; and that, during its bombardment by the Russians, he exhibited great cowardice. But the Russian Commander-in-chief gives a different account of the affair ; and, as I wish to be im^ partial, I shall let him speak for himself, and the reader will then have the opportunity of forming his own conclusions upon the subject. The fol- lowing extract from my daily journal contains the account in question: — "Jan. 3d, 18^9. — Upon entering the Count's library this morning, 1 found him out of humour, his secretary having been reading the English papers to him, which had just arrived, containing the intelligence that Varna had been bought by the Russians. Almost as soon as the usual salutations had been ex- c c 4 392 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS changed. His Excellency observed to me, < I see from the London papers, it is said in England, that Varna was sold : this is false j and you may use my name in contradicting it, if you choose. If I could have bought Varna, I would have done so. Buonaparte was always in the habit of getting hold of fortresses in this way when he could ; and I do not hesitate to say, as a General, that I should have considered it much better to have purchased the surrender of Varna than to have sacrificed so many men in taking it : but I could not It was impossible lor the Turks to hold out any longer ; the town was so battered by our guns as to be no longer defensible, and at least one half of the inhabitants had been killed/ His Excellency then went on to say, that ' the Pacha who commanded at Varna was a most barbarous wretch, who had exercised unheard-of cruelty towards the Russians, and even delighted in venting his spite upon the slain. One day, in particular, he caused the head of a Russian officer killed in action to be cut off and stuck upon the end of a long pole, which he had suspended so as to vibrate like a pendulum, and thus cause the head to wag backwards and forwards ; and this he had placed before his window while he was at dinner, and ordered to be kept in perpetual motion for his amusement ! ' '* But, however bad the Turks may be, I am afraid the Russians are not much better. The Russian soldiers, receiv- ing no prize-money as with us, are always allowed to plunder: this leads to an immense deal of RELATIVE TO VARNA. S93 unnecessary bloodshed and suffering. The valet who accompanied Count Vorontzof to Varna, although not a soldier, shared also in the spoils of war, and returned to Odessa with a collec- tion of silver-ornamented Turkish guns, pistols, swords, knives, &c., for which he had been of- fered (but had refused) 800 roubles, or about 34/. sterling. Among the rest of his plunder was a cartouch-box, the unfortunate bearer of which, a Turk, was severely wounded, but not dead, when a Russian soldier came up to strip him ; but, perceiving life not yet extinct, thrust his bayonet through his victim's back! The valet was approaching when this took place, and, after tlie soldier had taken all he wished, re- quested he would give him the cartouch-box ; upon which he cut it off from the expiring Turk and delivered it to him. I myself one day met a troop of Kozaks in Odessa, who had evidently just returned from the seat of war. They were laden with spoil. Some had two or three Turkish muskets slung round their shoulders ; others a profusion of pistols, sabres, and other small-arms. It is said that there were many Russians in the Turkish trenches at Varna, and upon their being taken by the Russian soldiers, they cried out to the latter in Russ, « Don't kill us ; we are Rus- sians ! " <* No,'' said the soldiers, " the Russians are there," pointing behind them, and instantly despatched them. After the Russians had occupied Varna, the Emperor Nicholas addressed an autograph letter ^ 894 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 395 to Count Vorontzof, informing him of His Ma- jesty's intention of presenting him with a golden sword.* The following is a translation of the letter : — " Count Michel Simonovitch |, " In calling you for a short time from the go- vernment of the provinces of New Russia to the command of the corps of troops charged with the siege of Varna, I was convinced that your long experience in the art of war, and your exemplary zeal for the welfare of the country, would fully justify my choice. My expectation has been fulfilled. While the works of the siege continued, our brave warriors were always and every where animated by your example ; and your wise measures have prepared the success which has crowned their fatigues. For the pur- pose of acknowledging in the way it deserves, and in a striking manner, all the value which I set upon these new services, I make you a present of a golden swordy with the inscription "For the taking of Varna," which may remind you unceasingly of this event, so glorious for the Russian arms, and which may be to you a testi- mony of my sincere affection and of my gratitude. *« I am your affectionate " Nicholas." This was not the only mark of approbation which Count Vorontzof received for his conduct * ** Argenteis pugna telis, ac omnia vinces/' f Simonovitch, the son of Simon. at Varna, for the Emperor also made him a pre- sent of one of the field-pieces which were cap- tured during the siege, which was taken by a charge with the bayonet, and which was said to be the last obstacle to the occupation of the town. This field-piece was brought to Odessa on the 22d of October, 1828, and placed, with its am- munition waggon, in the court-yard of the Count's new house, opposite to the grand entrance. An inscription was afterwards engraved upon it, to perpetuate the circumstances under which it had been presented to His Excellency. JUSUPH PACHA. This famous or infamous personage was, as be- fore observed, the second in command at Varna during the late siege, and was the person who delivered up that fortress to the Russians ; and, there can be no doubt, was also as vile a traitor to the Sultan and his country as ever suffered decapitation in the streets of Constantinople. It being unquestionable that Jusuph Pacha did de- liver up Varna to the Russians, it follows, as a matter of course, that he must have been a traitor ; since, being only second in command of the place during the siege, he could not have surrendered it, consistently with his duty, without the orders or consent of the Capitan Pacha, who commanded. But it is well known that the latter, so far from ordering or consenting to the sur- render of Varna, on the contrary, had determined to defend it to the utmost j and that, when the k it ! I) i| 396 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 397 town was even in possession of the Russian sol- diers, he shut himself up, with a few devoted fol- lowers, in the citadel, resolved to hold out to the last. The Emperor of Russia permitted this brave man to return, with some of his followers, to the Sultan, in the expectation that he would induce the latter to come to terms. The general opinion among the Russian officers at the time, I recollect, was, that the Pacha was a fool for availing himself of the Emperor's permission, and that the Grand Signior would, as a matter of course, order his head to be struck off upon his arrival at Constantinople : in this, however, they were mistaken ; for, instead of receiving him with displeasure, the Sultan appointed him his Grand Visier, thus giving the most marked proof of the approbation with which he regarded his conduct at Varna. On the 21st of October, 1828, Jusupli Pacha took possession of the house*, in the Strada Cher- sona at Odessa, which had been recently occupied by Count Vorontzof, the Governor-general. He was accompanied by his son and a numerous suite. His harem had, of necessity, been left at Varna, but was expected to follow. He was treated with the greatest attention by the Rus- sian authorities ; had a couple of sentinels placed at his gates (the same number that the Governor- general had previously) ; a carriage and horses were procured for him, and all other requisites supplied. From all which circumstances it may * I was informed that 500/. per annum was the rent of this house. reasonably be supposed that the Russians re- garded him as having conferred important be- nefits upon their country. I had no opportu- nity of seeing this celebrated personage until January ^d, 1829, when he appeared at one of the soirees of the Governor-general, attended by his son, his treasurer, and another individual be- longing to his household. Neither the Pacha nor his son was handsomely dressed. Each wore a red cloth skull-cap. Having a small plate of gold at its top, from which hung a black tassel or tail of about twelve inches in length; the rest of their clothing was of a light drab colour, and ex- ceedingly plain. Jusuph Pacha appeared to be about forty-five years of age, stout, and good- looking, and seemed to be in the enjoyment of excellent health : he seated himself at first, with his legs folded under him, on one of the sofas at the end of the room. His son (who appeared to be about twenty years of age, and by no means intelligent,) sat in a chair near his father. At a more advanced period of the evening the Pacha rose, and took a chair close to Count Vorontzof; who was engaged in playing whist, and appeared to pay attention to the game. The Count, and a few persons who were presented to the Pacha, conversed with him by means of the Turkish in- terpreter M. Rhazes, who is attached in that capacity to the Governor-general of New Russia. The Pacha and his son retired at an early hour. On the 19th of January, the Pacha and his son were again present at the Governor-generaPs, at >-3 |i !>■ 398 AUTHENTIC PAHTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA* 399 a ball and masquerade; and towards the con- clusion of his stay, he was asked his opinion of all he had seen. I should, however, premise, that among those of the fair sex who danced on that evening were a few rather good-looking young ladies, including two Greeks, a Madame B ^ young and interesting, several approaching the middle age, and one lady about sixty, who had scarcely ever ceased dancing during the whole of the evening. With respect to those of the middle age, the Pacha observed, that he thought it an insult to the Governor-general that such women should be sent to dance at his house, (for it appears he supposed them to be selected by the Master of the Police, and to be, what are denominated in Turkey, dancing girls;) and as for the old lady, he asked for what purpose did she dance ? for he could not conceive. He was then questioned as to what he thought of the beauty of the females, generally : he replied, that he considered some of the young ones comely enough, but that Madame B was the lady at whom he should fling the handkerchief. This was a young married Russian lady, about twenty years of age, whose two professed admirers were as well known as herself She was the chief topic of conversation during the winter of 18^8-9 in the Court circle at Odessa. With respect to the masquerade, the Pacha confessed candidly he did not like it, for he could not understand what it meant. He was, moreover, questioned as to what he thought of Count Vorontzof 's house. He said, it was a very fine house, the saloons were splendid, and the Countess pretty ; " but," continued he, " is there only one ? " Upon being answered in the affirmative, he re- plied, « Oh, it is a very incomplete house in this respect, there is a great want of more women." On April 4th, the Pacha's Circassian wife^ aged about seventeen, and his harem, said to consist of fifteen persons, arrived at the quaran- tine of Odessa. The Governor-general ordered M. Rhazes to announce the event to the Pacha^ and to inform him that, as soon as the quarantine regulations would permit, his wife should be al- lowed to come ashore ; that till then she must remain in the quarantine, but that he might at once see and speak to her in the conversation galley, if he chose. From this time Jusuph Pacha became a constant visitor at the Count's, being generally present at the balls, which were usually given twice a week. The Countess Vorontzof visited the Pacha's wife ; and on May 4th, the latter was invited by her ladyship to dinner. This invitation excited a good deal of conversation, for various reasons. All the guests present upon the occasion were ladies; and all the ladies' maids and nursery maids in the house were or- dered to be in readiness to wait at table that day, as no male persons whatever were to be in the way. The Countess, a short time before the appointed hour for dinner, sent her carriage to fetch her visitor ; and after a delay of about half an hour, I saw it return with the green silk blinds iif li I 400 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 401 pulled close down all round, and a huge eunuch mounted behind. On its arriving at the house door, I was a good deal amused at witnessing what took place. The eunuch got down, and went to the coach door ; but, before he opened it, looked attentively all round, to see if there were any men near : there happened to be one of the Count's footmen waiting for the obvious purpose of getting a glimpse of the fair Circassian, at whom the eunuch doubled his fist, and made many furious gestures for him to retire, which at first the former either did not understand, or did not feel inclined to obey ; however, at last he walked away, and, the coast being thus per- fectly clear, the eunuch suddenly opened the coach door, the Circassian came out with her duenna, and was hurried by them both into the house. She was muffled up round the head and neck completely by a long bandage of white linen, a small space only being lefl for the eyes ; and her motions were so quick that I could not distinguish any part of her dress. What took place during the dinner I know not, being, of course, proscribed from being present ; but, after it was finished, I saw the Circassian leave pre- cisely in the same manner that she had come, the eunuch displaying the same precaution both before and during her rapid passage from the house to the carriage, the blinds of which had been drawn close previously. Jusuph Pacha had expressed, shortly after his arrival at Odessa, his desire of conforming, as far as possible, with the customs of the people among whom he had come to live ; accordingly, on the occasion of Count Vorontzof's birthday, he sent him a congratulatory epistle, the seal of which, bearing a Turkish inscription, had been covered with leaf gold. He also bought a little orna- mented box at one of the shops in Odessa, and sent it as a present to the Count's eldest child, which attention was well received, and perhaps not injudiciously offered. Tlie Pacha and his son, attended by six or seven domestics, used fre- quently to ride out on horseback in the town, presenting a curious spectacle ; and the servants (who seemed to have plenty of money) might be seen every day riding up and down the streets of Odessa in hired droshkies, for amusement, appearing to be highly delighted with this, to them, novel species of carriage. During the more early period of his sojourn at Odessa, every body talked about Jusuph Pacha : the most com- mon questions then put at meeting were, " Have you seen Jusuph Pacha ? '* « What do you think of the Pacha ? " &c. I could not but smile often at observing the groupes of ladies, both young and old, who sought the hojiour of being presented to the renegade, and of exchanging a word with him through the interpreter, at the balls or soirdes of the Governor-general ; however, in time the novelty wore off, and long before I left the town, very little appeared to be thought of Jusuph Pacha ; indeed, if many of the fairer part of t!ie creation there were pleased with him, all were D D ( - ( 't,* i!* (1 402 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 403 not ; for a Russian lady, who had one evening been engaged in a long conversation with him, observed to me, the following day, that she thought him a "brute;" whether or not he de- serves that term I am unable to determine, but Madame appeared to have made up her mind on the subject. The Quarterly Review asserts that the surrender of Varna was bought for 500,000 roubles argent comptanty protection to Jusuph Pacha and his followers, and an esta- blishment in the Crimea. The information I have been able to gather, during my residence at Odessa, induces me to believe this statement to be strictly correct. The latter part of it was apparently confirmed by a conversation which Jusuph Pacha himself had one evening with a Russian lady, which was after- wards communicated to me. The Pacha, under- standing that the lady in question was well ac- quainted with the Crimea, was veiy anxious to ask her numerous questions concerning it; he wished to be informed of the nature of the coun- try, the climate, the houses, &c., and concluded by asking her (at which she felt offended) whether there were any Turkish women there? The Pacha's interest in the nature of the climate, and other particulars connected with the Crimea, seems certainly to corroborate the statement of the Quarterly Review as to the es- tablishment to which it alludes. • * I should not be astonished, if Jusuph Pacha should find that he has been taken in by the Russians, and that the The following trick, which was played upon the Governor-general one evening, by two of his most intimate friends. General Leon Narisch- kine and his lady, and in which Jusuph Pacha was in some degree concerned, may be perhaps not improperly introduced here, and may afford some amusement to the reader. The Governor- general, it must be observed, is in the habit of giving public dinners usually twice a week, at which all military officers resident in Odessa, the different consuls, all respectable foreigners, who in the course of their travels are known to be stopping in the town, and the upper classes of the inhabitants generally, are invited in turn. The days were Monday and Friday, and, during the last winter, one of these dinners was fre- quently superseded by a ball and soirde. On one of these occasions the Countess Vorontzof made an early call upon Madame Leon Narisch- kine, who was uniformly present at them, if well, for the purpose of inviting her to come, as usual, to the ball in the evening. But Her Ladyship found her in bed complaining of severe indisposition, and was informed that it would be impossible for her to accept the proffered invi- vitation. There was an early private dinner at Count Vorontzofs, General Narischkine being latter should, now they no longer require his services, refuse to fulfil their contract. Such conduct is of every-day oc- currence in Russia, both on the part of government and of private noblemen — ** Punka Jides:* D D 2 ii 404 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 405 present, who, however, retired immediately upon its conclusion ; observing, that he left his lady so ill that he must return and make enquiries respecting her. The ball commenced at the usual hour; and not long afterwards M. Rhazes, who had been invited, was called out, it being understood that Jusuph Pacha was waiting below, and desired to see him. He shortly afterwards returned, and informed the Governor-general that the Pacha, having heard there was to be a masked ball, had himself come dressed accord- ingly, as well as his son, and treasurer, but that he could not think of coming up without previously requesting to know whether His Excellency thought it improper, or would object to their ap- pearing in masks. Count Vorontzof immediately requested M. Rhazes to return to the Pacha, and to assure him that so far from his having any objection, he should be most happy to see him and his son as they were. These preliminaries being arranged, the Pacha, his son, and the treasurer, were ushered up stairs into the grand saloon, and were introduced in due form by M. Rhazes to the Count and Countess. Upon the usual obeisances being passed on both sides, the Pacha made a short speech in the Txirlxish language^ expressing the pleasure he felt upon paying his respects to the Governor-general upon such an occasion, which M. Rhazes intei-preted. Count Vorontzof next returned a neat answer in reply, w hich was in like manner translated to the Pacha J after which the respective parties se- parated and joined in the amusements of the evening. But it soon began to be remarked that Jusupli Pacha appeared much more at his ease in mask than he had been accustomed to be on all former occasions, and that he seemed to forget that he was in Russia, and not in Turkey ; for, after a time, he deliberately walked up to the old ugly lady, before referred to, and dropped his handkerchief before her. All were amazed, and all (except the lady in question) were amused, and some began to wonder how it would end. However the Pacha quietly retired to the sofa, and seated himself cross-legged upon it in his usual manner. He was now eyed closely by most in the room, and by none more keenly than the Countess Vorontzof, who speedily began to remark that the Pacha did not sit as upright as he was wont to do ; and, also, that instead of remaining motionless, as usual, he was in a per- petual twitter ; and, finally, she discovered that instead of having received Jusuph Pacha, his son, and his treasurer, that herself, the Governor- general, and the whole of the assembled visiters, had been imposed upon by General and Madame Leon Narischkine, who had personated the Pacha and his son, accompanied by their phy- sician, who had assumed the character of the treasurer. It is hardly necessary to observe that Madame Narischkine's illness was feigned, in order to afford herself and her husband a plausible excuse for being absent, and thus preventing any suspicion falling upon them while the plot D D 3 \ 1 'I i \\ r*' .1) 406 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS was carrying on. Nor need I add that the speecli of the pseudo Pacha was not really in the Tnrlish language^ but consisted of mere gabble, invented at the moment, but which answered as well, the person to whom it was ad- dressed, not understanding that language, — the interpreter was also, of course, a principal agent in securing the success of the deception. The clothes used upon tlie occasion were the identical dresses in which the Pacha, his son, and the treasurer had always before appeared, and had been lent by them for the purpose. It is not, therefore, sui-prising that the plot should succeed completely ; but I much question whether the English will admit the propriety of such ex- hibitions at the public assemblies of a Governor- general. NOTICE OF ANTIQUITIES BROUGHT FROM VARNA. Towards the latter end of March, 18'^9, an employ^ was sent to Varna and the other Turkish fortresses, which had fallen into the possession of the Russians, to copy the inscriptions and collect the ancient coins, marbles, and other remains of antiquity, for the purpose of being placed in the Museum of Odessa ; and by the Odessa Gazette for May 2. 18^9, it appears that in consequence the person charged with the foregoing commission had transmitted se- veral fragments of ancient marbles, containing different figures and Greek inscriptions ; and on the thirteenth of the same month, the following ' RELATIVE TO VARNA, 407 account of these marbles from the pen of Mr. Blaremberg, the director of the Museums of Odessa and Kertch, a gentleman well known in the learned world by his researches as an an- tiquary, was published in the same journal. The ancient marbles sent lately to His Excel- lency Count Vorontzof are as follow : — No. 1. — A sepulchral monument, with figures and inscriptions, discovered at the foot of the citadel of Varna. No. 2. — Monument of the same kind taken from the exterior wall of the church of St. Pa- rascovy at Varna. Nos. 3 and 7- — Fragments of tomb-stones without inscriptions : these two fragments had been let into the external walls of two houses at Varna. No. 6. — A similar monument with an in- scription, found in the cellar of a house at Varna. No. 4. — A bas-relief in fragments representing jEsculapius and Hygeia holding in the hand a rhyton.* Behind the goddess are seen two figures of women followed by an infant. This bas-relief fixed in the wall of a private house at Varna appears to have been an ea^ voto, oflTered to ^sculapius afler the cure of a sick person. The inscriptions of funeral monuments bear the name of a couple (husband and wife), re- presented upon the bas-relief, with the word XAIPETE (Rejoice ye.) No. 9. — Fragment of a bas-reliej^ upon which * A horn, serving the purpose of a drinking vessel. D D 4- \ " M I i,: i 408 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS is represented the upper part of the figure of a Dioscurus, having the head covered with the pilus, holding by the bridle a horse, of which can only be seen a part of the neck, and of the head. No. 8. — Fragment of an inscription, offering the commencement of a psaphism or decree, emanating from the council (or senate) and the people (THI BOTAHI KAI TQIAHMfll), and by which there had been decreed honours to a citi- zen of Epidamnus (Dyrrachium, now Durazzo, in Illyria). This marble, in demonstrating, by the com- mencement of the decree of which w^ are making mention, the existence of an ancient city upon the present site of the city of Varna, conducts us to the solution of the problem, as to the pre- sumed identity of the ancient 0AHS20S with modern Varna : this fhigment was found at the base of a stair-case, in a private house at Vaina. No. 5, — Large pedestal in white marble, with an mscription, formerly having served for the base of a statue, of a citizen of the name of Hero- sodon, the son of Pharnagos, chief of the town, as well as of the commonality or society of the five cities: APHANTA THS nOAEOS KAI- APHANTA TOYKOINOY TH2 HENTAnO- AE02. This inscription, mutilated in the lower part, states the union of five cities, of which it appears, that Odessus (Varna) was the centre ♦, * The form of the letters of this inscription in the original may lead it to be referred to the second centtiry of the Chris- tian era. r I RELATIVE TO VARNA. 409 and which might have been formed, like the alliance of the Hanseatic towns, by the cities and the ports placed in a line on the western shore of the Pontus Euxinus, in the follow^ing order: Tdmi (Kustendgi), Callatia (Mangalia), Odessus (Varna), Mesembria, and, finally, Apol- Ionia (now Sizopolis). This particular enhances the importance of the discovery of these ancient marbles, and gives rise to the hope, that further examinations will produce results not less inter- esting. Some Account of the Circumstances connected witJi the Banishment to Siberia^ by the Emperor Nicholas^ of a British Subject, who had acted as the Medical Attendajit of the Capitan Pacha duriiig the Siege of Varna, After the preceding observations upon Varna, I am naturally led to mention the following in- stance of despotism towards a British subject, who, happening to be taken prisoner of war upon the surrender of that fortress to the Russians, while attiiched to the Capitan Pacha as his me- dical attendant, was sent by the Emperor Nicho- las to Sibera. As the following relation will be transcribed, almost verbatim, from notes made at the time, it will be perhaps better to preserve the form of the journal as originally WTitten. Dec. 26th, 1828. — As I was sitting in my room this aflernoon reading, I was surprised by the entrance of one of the junior officers of police, who, making a profound bow, handed me a large 1" V i \l • \ 410 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS unsealed letter, written upon very coarse paper, the direction being in English^ which (uj)on opening), to my great concern, I found to be written by a Mr. , w ho was a medical stu- dent in London, when I left it, and who I had, upon several occasions, seen at the house of his brother-in-law, a lecturer on midwifery. The following is a coj)y of the letter, which, for the sake of authenticating the facts as much as ])ossible, I subjoin : the original is in my pos- session : — « Police-house, 26th Dec. " Dear Doctor, " It is with pain that I address you thus, in misfortune : I am brother-in-law to of , and medical attendant upon the Capitan Pacha, made prisoner of war in Varna. After the cap- ture of the town, I was confined in a magazine under ground, — I became afflicted with ague, — every article belonging to me was purloined. In a state of extreme weakness I was ordered to Odessa. I have scarcely a shirt to my back. I fell into the hold of the ship during the voyage, and have severe pain in my lumbar region, — from the lightness of my dress, I have also rheu- matic pains in my lower extremities. Vermin swarm over me. Good God ! a gentleman to be in such a state ; conceive tlicn my situation. I know not a soul here ; nor can I be understood : — do, for God's sake, come to relieve me, as in RELATIVE to VARNA. 411 a day or two I am ordered into the interior ; where on the road I must die, if sent in this state. " Yours, " My dear Doctor, " I am at the Police, where " ^^^ misery, " the Commandant is. " W. '. ** Turn over, " It is the kindness of the Commandant, that has permitted me to address you. Do answer, dear Doctor: — I have not a farthing ; — in this state of health, — disease, — vermin, — I must perish in a few days, if not relieved." I lost not a moment in complying with the wish of the unfortunate writer ; and knowing full well that prisons in Russia are hermetically sealed against all who are not furnished with au- thority, I immediately went to the Governor- general, read to him the letter I had received, and stating to His Excellency what I knew of the individual to whom it referred, requested permission to visit him whenever I chose. The Count acceded to my desire, and directed one of his clerks to accompany me to the Master of the Police, and to signify to him, that I was to be allowed the privilege in question. We imme- diately drove to the house of the latter, and luckily finding him at home, upon explaining the object of our visit, he accompanied us to the prison. Here, in a damp and abominably filthy ground-floor room, which was now unlocked to » 1 1 1 1 1- 1 412 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. 413 ;l us, we found the object of our search, and three other prisoners, lying almost exhausted with fa- tigue, cold, want of food, and ill usage, upon a low wooden shelf, extending along one side of it, which, thinly spread over with dirty hay, served them for a bed. Upon our entering, they slowly rose, and I shall never forget the picture of horror I then witnessed. I should not have know n Mr. , but he at once recognised me : his feelings, at our meeting under such dej)lor- able circumstances on his part, may be easily imagined, but cannot be described : even now% I shudder at the remembrance of the WTctched scene. He was wrapped round with an old English camblet cloak, underneath which were the tat- tered remnants of a Turkish jacket and trowsers : he had no linen of any kind, was much ema- ciated, and fiom having been long deprived of the means necessary for shaving or washing, had a most unseemly appearance. He complained much of the harsh treatment exercised towards him ever since he had been made prisoner, and begged to know whether I could do any thing for him. As soon as he had become more collected, I began to make enquiries with respect to the circumstances which had occasioned his beinff at Varna, &c. ; and from his answers, learned that soon after I left England, the surgeon of a sliip, bound to Constantinople, happening to fall sick on the eve of her departure, the captain offered a handsome some of money to any young medical man who would supply his place during the voyage ; that anxious to travel, and having been assured the opportunity might be exceedingly advantageous, he immediately accepted the situ- ation, and accordingly proceeded in the vessel to Constantinople, and was there at the time when the battle of Navarino took place ; he was then induced to land in Turkey, where he was told a good deal of money might be obtained by the exercise of his profession ; and shortly after, he entered into the service of the Capitan Pacha, who commanded at Varna, as his medical attend- ant, and had only readied that place three days before tiie siege began. I have already men- tioned, that three other prisoners were confined with him : these I found to be a Mr. Jackson, also a medical man, and a British subject, being born of British parents in Turkey ; an apothe- cary, whose name and nation I did not hear ; and a person who was dragoman or interpreter to Mr . These gentlemen, prisoners of war, were allowed by the Russian government only 25 kopecks, or Q^d. per day, to subsist upon, although they held the rank of officers ; and in the Russian service, the medical attendant of a commander-in-chief would hold at least the rank of major in the army. Having promised to use any influence or power I might possess in pro- curing the alleviation of his present miserable condition, and leaving him a trifling sum of money for immediate wants, I took my departure, with the assurance, that I would revisit him the 414 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS l> following day. As soon as I returned to the house of Count Vorontzof, I again sought His Excellency, wlio happened to be disengaged, and pleaded the cause of my unfortunate protege as forcibly as I could. I represented to him, the hardship of making Mr. — a prisoner of war, as he had been merely a medical attendant, and had not borne arms at all against the Russians ; the injustice of his being allowed only two-pence halfpenny per day (a sum which it was j)erfcctly evident he could not subsist upon), when lie was entitled to be ranked as an officer, and to have an allowance as such ; and the barbarity of putting him and his fellow-prisoners in the com- mon gaol, and never letting them stir out, except under a guard to buy their dinner ; it being well known, that, independent of such severe restric- tions, they were effectually prevented from escap- ing, even if they were inclined to make the attempt. My arguments, however, did not seem to have much effect, though the Count promised he would do what he could for Mr. ; but he added, "The Emperor is exceedingly prejudiced against these prisoners, and so angry with them, that I dare 7iot make any application in their favour. His Majesty, somehow or other, at Varna, conceived the idea that they were en- gineerSy and not medical meyi^ and was not to be persuaded out of this belief) although, had he chosen, he might at once have decided the ques- tion, by ordering Sir James Wylie, who was there, to ask them some medical questions j but RELATIVE TO VARNA. 415 he would not, and was furious against them." I heard, from an eye-witness at Varna, that Mr was placed in a tent near that of the Commander- in-chief, and when he had been kept during the whole day without the means of satisfying his hunger, he was indebted at night for some bread to the humanity of a deserving person, whose name, for obvious reasons, I shall not mention, and who had been, tUl then, afraid of acceding to his reiterated requests for food, under the dread of compromising his own safety, by exciting the anger of the Emperor. I heard also that His Majesty had personally applied opprobrious epi- thets to the prisoner, for having been with the Turks. Dec. 27th. — I visited the prison again this morning, taking with me some clothing and linen for Mr. ; and having obtained permission to do so, requested the Master of the Police to allow his going to one of the baths in the town, a droshki having been previously hired for that purpose. During my visit to-day, Mr wished to learn if I was acquainted with the name of the place he was to be sent to ; adding, that the other prisoners said they were all to be despatched to Siberia. I asked the Master of the Police, in consequence, what was their des- tination ; when lie informed me that Mr. was to be forwarded to Perme in Siberia! the rest to other and less distant places. I was thun- derstruck at this intelligence ; which, however, at the time, I withheld from the unfortunate in- (• 416 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO VARNA. I dividual to wliom it referred. I asked also when tiiey were to commence their respective journeys, and was answered that the day of their departure was at present fixed for the 1st of January. Mr. then told me that he had also heard they were to be sent to their destination on foot, and declared that it would be physically impossible for him to perform the journey in that manner, on account of the rheumatism contracted tlirough the hardships which he had recently undergone; and that some of his companions were in a worse condition than himself. He earnestly begged that his supplication to be allowed to go in some other manner, if possible, might be made known to the Governor-general, and I willingly agreed to be its bearer. Having given him all the con- solation I could, I left the prison and returned home. I once more endeavoured to direct Count Vorontzof's attention to the wants of the pri- soners and the alleviation of their" sufferings, making him fully acquainted with the bad state of health in which they all were. I received many promises from His Excellency ; but it will soon be shown that of these, the majority, if not all, were never attended to. Wiiether the Count did not choose, or did not dare, to assist them, I shall leave for others to decide. It is certain, however, that his promises were never fulfilled. . Dec. 28th. — I met the Master of the Police this morning at the Governor-general's, and had some conversation with him about the prisoners. He said the Civil Governor lias now given orders 417 hat they shall be allowed to walk about in the befoie the favour of stirring out once a day in order to purchase their dinners at the Sa" accompanied by a soldier. Now that a foreign"; .? rr buff r''""^^'-^-^ ""^^ ^^'^^^ IS made , but, had no one interfered, the huma nuy of the Civil Governor would never W suggested such a step , nor would any Te have enquired whether they were starving or not To & Mr 7t ''°""'' ''^^'"^ -Led a J: ne^a^ ^'•,'^""J^^""' Petitioned the Governor-ge- Xt J. '^""'' '■"'1"^^*'"^ *hat he may be allowed to remam in Odessa until the spring as his health will not permit him to underS'the journey he ,s ordered to perform duringthe rigour of wxnte., without danger to his life, ^nthf af- ternoon I visited all the prisoners : they are in much better spirits. Hope, notwithstandingmy assurances to the contrary, induces them 7oll chalet h??r'^^ *^ ^^^^'"P'^^'^ ^ benefici^ Change in their distressing situation. Mr. Jackson addressed me during this visit, desiring that I would examine into the state of his health a„d report upon it accordingly to the GovernJr-ge- reouest toT ^ ''*"''" ^"'"^ ^ r^^ni:,on^^ this mv/vw ^Tb ""^ ''^SSed him to sanction my examming all the prisoners, and to allow the postponement of their journey during the prlsent severe weather.. His ExceUency s^a d/m 2 examine them if I chose, and added, thaTi I • About ten degrees below zero. £ £ 418 AUTHENTIC FABTICULABS ll k thought them too ill to set off at present, he would permit them to remain «* a Jew days longer ;" but in that case he should not allow them to walk about the town as they had done, nor even to leave the prison ! and that it was not in his power to grant any further delay, nor to make any alteration whatever in their respective routes. Dec 29th. — Paid my usual visit to the prison. The apothecary begged that I would endeavour to procure liim permission to proceed to his des- tination otherwise than on foot, Mr. Jackson also solicited my aid in obtaining the boon already asked for him, namely, that of being allowed to stop at Odessa during the winter. I informed the latter of the Governor-general's determina- tion, as expressed to myself yesterday, and there- fore advised him to entertain no expectations of a farther delay being acceded to. I allowed his health was impaired; but as I could not hope that a few days would make any material im- provement in it, and the Count had declared that he could not grant a longer period, it was my opinion that he had better make up his mind at once to depart than to run the risk of dis- pleasing the local authorities by wishing to stop, aaad consequently, perhaps, be sent off afterwards in a worse plight than I believed was then con- templated. I again spoke to Count Vorontzof in favour of these unfortunate persons; urged the impossibility of their ever reacliing their destina- tioms on foot under their impaired state of health. RELATIVE TO VARNA, 419 and during the extreme cold we experienced ; and begged him to order that they should be conveyed ,n kibitkas. I moreover again remon- strated upon the pitiful allowance of 25 kopecks per day. which, he must know, they could not sWM T"^ *' ""^'•^^P^^tfully suggested that it should be increased; particularly as they ought to be considered as officers. I was informed^. terwards His Excellency had directed that they shou d be conveyed in kibitkas, and also that they should be recognised as officers, and allowed a rouble, or IQd. per day. Dec. 30th About eleven o'clock I drove down to the prison, where I found Messrs and Jackson alone, their companions in misfor- tune having gone into the town. I communi- cated the pleasing intelligence that they were to be conveyed in kibitkas by post-horses, and that the allowance would be increased to a rouble a ^ay. They made many gratifying acknowledg. nients for my endeavours to serve them ; and Mr. Jackson, as I was retiring, obsei-ved he had «clt'^i^' "T" '"r "'■"''' "'"' " «"""«» ^'o^e. '-ho is Ssfit p '1^"'"'°'' '"'^'^'^ "P°° W-J^ "-"d, of Icks or ^ "^ "''" ^" P'*"^"'-^'* *■" 1 '""ble 30 ko- to find W VI '"T"^' """"^'^ ^ ^°^^^' or 5rf. per day wouW 'r'''?"\ ^''^ '"^^ -"-PPy gentlemen, who would be grossly cheated in making their purchase, and fee"? lS R '"" *" """"S"^* °''««^'«' «ft«r this single who a J^ffi'""" government grants to prisoners of w!r. who^a,« office,^, one half the pittance allotted to its ow.! E E ^ 420 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS l> V ^' a favour to request of me. " There is,** he said, " a considerable sum of money belonging to me at the Quarantine here, which I am now about to take possession of. In Turkey I have a wife and children, who I shall, doubtless, never again see ; for I cannot reasonably expect, in my state of ill health, to survive the hardships and toils which are preparing for me. When I am no more, I should like them to possess this money ; it may save them from want (at least for a time) when I can no longer assist them. You are an English- man, — the country of generous feelings; and your conduct towards my unfortunate fellow-prisoners and myself leads me to place the greatest confi- dence in you. Take charge, I entreat you, of this money ; and in the event of my death, oh ! transmit it to my widow and fatherless children." I was deeply affected by his situation and ad- dress, but felt that I was not likely to have the power of performing the service he asked. I represented to him, therefore, my ineligibility for such purpose, notwithstanding the sincere wish I had of seiTing him, on account of my own ill health ; the uncertainty as to whether I should remain at Odessa, it being my duty to accompany the Governor-general ; and my per- fect unacquaintance with commercial transac- tions ; — in conclusion, begging to decline the office, advising him, at the same time, to leave the money in the hands of some foreign merchant of known respectabiHty at Odessa ; or, what ap- I * 1^~ i F ^ - ^^ RELATIVE TO VARNA. 421 peared to me yet more advisable, to place it in the custody of the English Consul-general.* Jan. 2d, 1829. — I told Count Vorontzof that the prisoners had, up to the present momenty only received 25 kopecks per day, and asked him whetlier he intended them to have the rouble, as, I understood, he had ordered some days ago. His Excellency replied, certainly, that they should have it from the day of their arrival at Odessa. Jan. 4th. — This morning early I received the following letter from Mr. : " Sunday, Police-house. " Dear Doctor, " We have orders to depart to-morrow. Con- ceive, then, how my feelings are relieved. It is to the Crimea we are ordered ; comparatively no great distance ; nay, by sea but a day's sail. I have but this instant received intimation of news so grateful after my severe sufferings. But, my dear Doctor, I am unacquainted witli the nature of this change of affairs. Could I see you this evening, or any time to-day when convenient ? I write this in haste (excuse me), you know not in what a joy. I feel as a man reprieved from sentence of death. Believe me, I can never forget your kind intercession ; for had not the Almighty * Upon informing Count Vorontzof afterwards, that I had advised Mr. Jackson to place his money in the hands of the EngHsh Consul-general, His Excellency said, I had done wrong, and ought to have recommended him to entrust it to M. Marigni, who would have placed it in the Russian Junds for him. E E 3 492 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS *. I \ li sent this (for I conceive it is from your inter- cession alone) .* Then believe me to remain, ** Yours, so very much indebted. . o'clock. The merchants of Odessa have much wished that there should be a Russian diligence from that town, to correspond with the Austrian from Brody, and it has been for some time proposed to establish such a mode of conveyance at Odessa ; but the Russian Minister of Finance has always opposed the i)lan, assigning as his reason that it would facilitate smuggling through Radzivilof. But if the local autliorities did their duty, a public diligence belonging to the Government would be much more easily searched and watched than the private carriages which must be employed in its place ; and thus a check would be put upon illicit trade, instead of its continuance being facilitated. As the ])ro- bability, however, is, under existing circum- stances, that an understanding would at once be entered into between tlie conductors of the dili- gence and the various government functionaries on the road, perhaps the Minister did right in refusing his sanction to the undertaking. Thus it is evident that in Russia, as Bishop James has well observed, " the system of peculation and corruption which prevails, is alone sufficient to paralyse her powers in every branch." By the establishment of such a public conveyance at the present time between Odessa and Radzivilof, there would be a direct land communication be- tween the Black Sea and St. Petersburg, as it ap- pears that, in the earlypart of last year, diligences commenced running between the latter capital and Radzivilof, passing through Vitebsk, Mogilef, RETURN TO ENGLAND. 455 Tchernigof, Kief; and Jitomir, and the greatest advantages must result in consequence. Upon arriving at Lemberg, I proceeded to the " Hotel de Russie," to which I had been recom* mended, — an immense and showy establishment; but it was so exceedingly full at the time, that I was compelled for that day to put up with a miserable room : however, on the following morning, in consequence of the departure of a family, I luckily obtained a pleasant well-fur- nished apartment, having an oblique view of the principal street. I was exceedingly pleased with Lemberg during the short time I had the opportunity of staying. It is of considerable size, the greatest part of the houses being built upon a very large scale, and the public build- ings are magnificent ; while the ground on which the town stands comprising several hills, this variety of surface produces a most picturesque and romantic appearance. There are many beautiful gardens, agreeably situated, and kept in very great order ; the labourers being public criminals, who work in fetters. Lemberg con- tains an university, a public library, a cathe- dral, with several churches of ancient archi- tecture and imposing appearance, two theatres, and a population of about 60,000 inhabitants; while Odessa, the third town in Russia, has not much more than half that number of fixed popu- lation. One evening I met at least a hundred of the prisoners employed in the streets and public works returning from their labour to the G G 4 _/ 456 IlETUUN TO ENGLAND. "It jail, their fetters making a most dismal clanking. How this public employment of criminals may be found to act as a preventive of crime I know not, but it is a sight which must give pain to most observers. Having presented my Austrian passport at the Police-office, where I feel pleasure in stating that I met with the greatest civihty, and men- tioned my intentions of travelling by the mail- coach, I received, in consequence, a billet to present at the diligence office (without which no passenger is allowed to proceed) ; and my place being previously engaged, on the 2Gth of June, at five p. M., I entered the eilpost, or mail-coach, which proceeds direct from Lemberg to Vienna. This is a very commodious vehicle, carrying only four inside passengers, and one in the ca- briolet with the conductor: the letters are • stowed behind. The postilions wear red coats edged with silver lace, with the imperial anns placed a little above their left elbows, cocked hats bound with silver, and a green feather, yel- low buckskin breeches, and high boots ; they have also a small French horn slung round the ^loulder by an ornamented cord and tassel, which they blow towards the conclusion of a stage, or when other carriages are in advance of the diligence, upon which tlie former are im- mediately compelled to draw aside for the pur- pose of letting it pass. Four horses are usually employed in drawing it, but sometunes only three; while the stages never exceed three RETURN TO ENGLAND. 457 German miles, and are, in general, but two. Every person who takes a place by this coach is allowed sixty pounds weight of luggage, which is forwarded the preceding day by another vehi- cle, — a kind of light waggon • escorted by a con- ducteiir, who is armed, as well as by a soldier, to protect it from robbers ; this being the convey- ance employed by merchants in transmitting money between Lemberg and Vienna; and it reaches the place of its destination a few hours after the eilpost. Only five pounds of luggage are allowed to accompany each passenger ; and when the number of these is greater than the eilpost can accommodate, another light coach with two horses follows, in which the su- pernumeraries are conveyed, subject to the same regulations as the rest of the passengers. The roads in Austria are excellent, and the celerity in travelling by this conveyance is, I imagine, not less than that of our own mail-coaches. We reached Przemisl early the next morning (June 27th) to breakfast, and Tarnow the same night about half-past eleven ; being taken to the house of a Jew, where every thing was of the most uninviting description, and where we stopped to rest until four o'clock the next morn- ing, when the coach proceeded on its journey. In the course of the day we passed through the free town of Cracow, celebrated for its salt- mines, &c. ; and in the evening supped at Tes- chen, remaining here half an hour only ; when resuming our route, we entered Moravia, and fM* 458 RETURN TO ENGLAND. If travelling almost without intermission, reached Olmutz the following night (29th). This is a very strong fortress, having never yet been taken, and 30,000 soldiers are said to be re- quired for its garrison. We arrived here about ten o'clock, and departed about four the follow- ing morning (June 30th) ; at one p. m. entering Brunn, a fortress of immense strength, within which is another fortress, or, perhaps, more cor- rectly speaking, the citadel, placed upon the top of a hill. This latter is chiefly employed for the confinement of criminals sentenced to imprison- ment either for life * or for a very long period, such, for instance, as twenty years. We dined at Brunn ; and continuing our route, reached Vienna the following morning (July 1st) about half-past five o'clock. Our passports were de- manded at the barrier, and a notice in three languages delivered to myself and fellow travel- lers, requiring us within twenty-four hours to present ourselves at the Police-office, in order to obtain a carte de surete. Each passenger is moreover asked to what inn or other place he is going ; and in answer to this question, I named the " Roi d'Hongrie," being the hotel recom- mended to me by M. Dubatchefsky. We soon entered the town, and finally stopped at the diligence office, from which I immediately pro- ceeded to the hotel before mentioned ; and am * The present Emperor of Austria has commuted the punishment of death for forgery to that of solitary imprison- ment in a fortress for life. RETURN TO ENGLAND. 459 possibly consulting tlie advantage of future tra- vellers by stating, that the fare was excellent, the attendance good, and the charges reason- able. After I had breakfasted, a valet de place came to oflTer his services ; the wages of his fra- ternity being fixed by law (as he informed me) at 1 florin of convention 35 kreutzers per day. Although I have a great dislike to valets de place, who, I believe, in St. Petersburg * and in Austria are generally, if not invariably, agents of the Police, yet I engaged this man ; and must say it is difficult for a stranger, arriving at such a place as Vienna, to go through even the neces- sary routine with respect to the Police-office and his passport without one. A few florins are, therefore, not thrown away in return for the assistance which these individuals have it in their power to aflTord ; but if the traveller wish to make many purchases, he must always recol- lect that they are in league with the shopkeepers of the place, and that they will have a per cent- age upon every article bought while they are present. I was told by a tradesman, in another continental town, that he and his brethren find it impossible to resist this system of extortion, in consequence of the opportunities which the * " Not a Thane of them, but in his house She has a servant fee'd." " Happy King of England ! who has no occasion for a horde of spies against his own subjects; and may allow his people to speak, write, and think as they please." Anecdotes of the Russian Empire. •^^TFSs-in 4G0 KETURM TO ENGLAND. It valets de place have of leatling strangers to what shops they please. Vienna is deHghtfully situated, being divided into the town and the fauxbourgs ; the latter of which are much more extensive than the for- mer. The town is placed in the centre of the fauxbourgs, surroiuuled by a brick wall about forty-five feet in height, with a dry ditch and other fortifications; but being commanded by the fauxbourgs, and for other reasons, it would be unable to stand a regular siege. The number of streets in the town amounts to 110; they are generally very narrow, but well paved and ex- ceedingly clean. The houses are stated only at 1217, but they are exceedingly higli, — consisting generally of five, six, or even more stories ; and inhabited often by several famiHes. The faux- bourgs are computed to contain G*200 houses, and the total number of inhabitants in Vienna is estimated at from 270,000 to 275,000. The attempt minutely to describe this capital, after a residence of only four days, would be ridicu- lous; while the many descriptions no doubt already existing, would, perhaps, render even a faithful and elaborate account of it super- fluous. I glanced at most of the objects calcu- lated to excite curiosity that were accessible, but had only the opportunity of j)articularly in- specting one establishment, namely, the Arsenal : I shall, therefore, merely observe, that Vienna appeared to me a most beautiful city, rich in specimens of fine architecture, containing en- IlETURN TO ENGLAND. 461 chanting gardens and delightful drives ; possess- ing, in short, every thing calculated to render it an agreeable summer residence. July 4th. — Having secured a place in the diligence from Vienna to Lintz, and another to Passau, at about 9 o'clock p.m. I left Vienna, and the following evening, at halflpast six, arrived at Lintz. The conducteur, who was a very gentlemanly person, had been an officer in the army, and wore the insignia of some military order. The women in Lintz wear a curious head-dress, consisting of gold cloth formed into a globular shape, which is placed at the back of the head. It is peculiar to Lintz, and is very pretty. July 6th. — About eight o'clock, I observed the students hurrying to the university to lec- ture, and half an hour afterwards left Lintz in a very heavy coach loaded with baggage. Tliis is one of the old diligences first estab- lished on the Continent ; its conducteur sitting inside, and a soldier in front on the outside, as guards. We travelled exceedingly slowly, having performed only four stages by half past ten p. M., when we arrived at Scharding ; where, on stopping at the inn for -the night, our pass- ports were demanded to be sent to the Police. July 7th. — We left our quarters about nine o'clock in the morning, and, after walking a short distance, reached the Bavarian diligence. This is one of the old kind, carrying six inside, including the condmteur, who was a most power- h 462 RETURN TO ENGLAND. ?" I I ■™ fill young man, having been a militaiy officer, and wearing two orders. He was dressed in a light bkie unifbrm, with a silver badge on the left breast, and armed with a brace of pistols and a sabre. The Bavarian postiUons wear blue jackets edged with silver lace, and round hats with bands of the same material. We soon arrived at a bridge over the Danube, one half of whicli is within the Austrian and tlie other be- lon. BieJa Tserkof, 147. Miserable accommodations at, 149. De- scription of the mansion at, 150. Bielotina, 444. , Bingham, Lord, goes as a volunteer to Varna, 387. Received the Cross of St. Vladimir from the Emperor of Russia, ib. Blaremberg, M., 178. 283. 407. . , Captain, 356, 357. Bogdanofsky, General, 262. Boug, river, 168. Ludicrous cavalcade to the, 169. Passage of, 170. Boguslaf, 155. Borovitchi, 125. Branitskii, Count, 150. . , Countess, 147. Reported income of, ibid. Anec- dotes of, 147, 148. Bratslaf, 437. Infamous conduct of the post-master and secretary at, 438. Brides, dresses of, in Russia, 350. Brody, 440. 447. 450, 451, 452, 453. , population of, 452. Brunn, 458. Brussels, 468, 469. Brycula, 443. C. Caitchailee and Greek dance, 337. Castelnau, Marquis, 312. 329. Catharine, Empress, 360. « J Institute of St., 61. Strictures upon, ibid. Ceremony of washing the feet, 331. Charpie, making, 343. Cherson, government of, 158. Circassians, 347* Clarke, Dr., 39. 166. 355. Coblentz, 466, 467. Cobley, General, 173. Coblifka, ibid. Cochrane, Captain, 56. , Mrs., ibid. Codema, R., 434. Cold, instance of intense, 1 25. Cologne, 465, 466. Colovrat, Count, 116. Conjugal devotion, remarkable instance of, 339. Constantino, Grand Duke, abdication of, 54. Copenhagen, 4. Cozaletz, 136. Cracow, free town of, 457. Cronchlot, 13. Cronstadt, 6. 12, 13. Cross, piece of the real, 116. Customs, various Russian, 350. Custom after an accouchement, 351. -^— ~- on Christmas eve, ibid. on the last day of the year, 353. ^— ^ on New-year's day in the south of Russia, ibid. Dalneskaia, 429. Danube, passage of the, Te Deum for, 371. Dawe, Mr., 45. 51. 95. 374. Demoiselles nobles, communautd des, 61. Denizof, Count Orlof, 385. Despotism, instances of, 345. DiarkofsUy, 4.AO» Diebitch, General, 44. Disbrowe, Mr., English minister at St. Petersburg, 8. Dobreyka, 133. Dobryanka, 137. Dofinof ka, 174. Dolgofka, 123. Doubno, 440. 445. 447. Doubrova, 126. Drosdovitza, 137. Dubatchefsky, M., late Russian consul in London, 453. 458. 470 INDEX. Durer, Albert, the house of, 464. Dvina, river, 129. £. Ehrenbreitstein, 467. Ekaterinoslaf, government of, 158. Eilpost, Austrian, or mail-coach, 456. Elizavetgrad, 159. Elsineur, 4. Empress-mothers', the late, opinion respecting female society in Russia, 66, 67, 68. Empress, the reigning-, portrait of, 382. , Elizabeth, the punishment of death abolished by, 78. England, return to, 427. Equipages of the Russians, 69. Execution by hanging, first employed in Russia, 79. . , melancholy instance of, ibid. F. False marche route given by the Odessa post-office, 91. Fete charapetre given to the Empress, 374. Filerma, miraculous image of our Lady of, 116. Finland, Gulf of, 5. Foreigners, list of offices in Russia held by, 44, 45. Franck, Baron, 150. 158. 160. 162. 166. 171. 354. Frankfort sur le Meine, 464, 465. G. Gale, terrific, 2. Galitzin, Prince, 851. , Princess, ibid. Gaponovtchina, 129. German bed, 463. Glinka, 136. Gomel, 137. Gorodetz, 124. 156. Gorodnya, 137. Gorynia, river, 443, 444. Gottenburg, 3. INDEX. Goudovitch, General, 179, 180. Grebenski, 147. 154. Gregoriopol, 433. Greig, Admiral, 44. 166, 167, 168, 169. 370. Gromoklaiefskaia, 159. H. Hadgibey, taking of, 178. Hajji Baba in England, adventures of, 20. Hanau, 464. Hartval, Professor, 287. Hederim, 43. Herheoulidzef, Prince, 75. Heytesbury, Lord, 380. Hoffman, Colonel, 429. Hompech, Baron, 116. Howard the philanthropist, 28, 29. 31. , monument of, 355. 477 L Ingoul, river, 168. Intruders, military, 5. Irva, river, 445. J. Jackson, Mr., a British subject taken prisoner of war at Varna, 413.417. 419. John, St., battery of, 13. James, Bishop, 40. 62. 454. Jantschokrack, 171. Jugel, M., 465. Jusuph Pacha, 391. 395, 396, 397, 398, 399, 400, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405. 424. 's Circassian wife, 399. K. Kameno-verboskeio, 446. Kandybina, 165. Karapetze, 155. fhii 478 INDEX. INDEX. 479 Kief, 144. Arrive at, 145. Fortress of Petchersl at, ibid. Church of St. Nicholas at, ibid. Petcherskoi monastery, ibid. Catacombs, ibid. Bodiesof saints, ibid. Odoriferous heads, 146. Child murdered by Herod's order, ibid. Old Kief, ibid. Church of St. Sophia, ibid. Convent of St. Michael, ibid. The Podole, ibid. University, ibid. Popu- lation of, ibid. Kiriakof, Messrs., 189. Kirico, Mademoiselle, 357. Kisselef, Madame, 368, 369. 372. Korinikha, 171* Korsun, 156. Kostoukovka, 137. Kotchubey, Count 383. Koutschourganskaia, 431. Krasnoe, 137. 155. Kutnia, 136. Laban, Dr., 329. Langeron, Count, 195, 196. 291. 331-. Lascy) General, 336. Laurer, Madame, 163. Leighton, Dr., 45. Lemberg, 453. 455. Lintz, 461. , peculiar head dress at, ibid. Lipetzkaiay 434. Litichef, 440. Litofsky prison, visit to, 27. Litvinovitchi, 136. Lityn, 440. Locusts, 338. Louga, river, 124. Louga, ibid. Lyall, Dr., 39. 74. 166. 355. — — , his definition of a genteel education in Russia, 64. , his statements confirmed, 147. 260. 278. I M. Macmichael, Dr., 40. 76. 274. Magnetism, animal, 341. Malaiestcha, 433. Masquerade at court, 40. Mariconi, Mademoiselle, 377. Markofsky, 440. Martos, M., 359. Matusavitch, Count, 368. Maximovka, 160. 162. Deplorable post station at, 160. Mayence, 465. Medical officers of the Russian army, condition of, 98. Medgibodze, 440. Michailof Pogost, 127. Michalech, M., Prussian consul at Brody, 451. 453. Michel, the Grand Duke, 379. Miloradovitch, Count, 17. Moden, Count, 375. 384. Mogilef, government of, 130. Town of, 135. Moravia, 457. Mordvinof, Admiral, 169. Letter of, to the present Em- peror of Russia, 21 1. Morton, Captain, R. N., his theory of the electrical formation of hail, 233. Moshney, 155. Moskalenskaja, 155. Murders, number of in Russia and England, 71. N. Narischkine, Governor, 357. , General Leon, 159. 165. 403, 404. , Madame Leon, 357. 368. 372. 403, 404. Navarino, battle of, and the Russians, 50. Nemerof, 439. Nestlerode, Count, 385. Neva, ceremony of blessing the waters of the, 44. Nicholle, Abbe, 289. 480 INDEX. INDEX. 481 Nikolaief, 165, 166, 167. 170. Foundation of, 168. De- scription of, 169. Disadvantages of, ibid. Novo Belitza, 137. Novo Doubossari, 433, 434-. Novomirgorod, 158. Nurnburg, 463, 464. O. Odessa, ancient inhabitants of; Grecian establishments on the site of, 177. Hadgibey, Adgibey, Kodgibey, Turkish names of; foundation of, 182. Not the site of Odessus, 183. Progress of, from 1803 to 1814, 190. Particular description of, 198. House of Jusuph Pacha at, 199. New Boulevard at, 200. New house of Count Vorontzof at, 201, 202, 203, 204. Execrable state of the roads at, 208. Roguery of those connected with the roads at, 209. 214. Climate of, 215. 236. Population of, 236—241. Government of, 241. Public business much in arrear at, ibid. Magistrates of, ibid. Police of, ibid. Gendarmerie of, 243. Revenues of the town of, 244. Ports of, 246, 247. Table of ships arrived and departed in 1827 from the foreign port of, 247. Table of arrivals and departures in 1827, and under what flag, 248. Table of arrivals and departures from the home port in 1827, ibid. Table of arrivals and departures in 1828 from the foreign port of, 249. Table of arrivals and departures from the home port in 1828, ibid. List of articles imported into in 1828, 250. List of articles exported from in 1828, 251. First employment of steam boats in the Black Sea, 252. Steam boat "Ville d'Odessa" a failure, 253. Quarantine, de- scription of at, 254, 255, 256. Board of Health belonging to, 257. Custom-house at, ibid. Amount of duties at, for a series of years, 258. Classes of merchants at, 260. The Exchange at, 261. The new Exchange at, 262. Tribunal of commerce at, ibid. Deputation of commerce at, 263. Brokers at, ibid. Bank of exchange at, 264. Discount or loan bank at, ibid. Chambers of insurance at, 265. Imperial chamber of insurance at, ibid. Greco- Russian chamber of insurance at, ibid. Fire insurance company at, 266. Proposed Dutch factory at, ibid. For- tress at, 269. Garrison of, 270. Barracks of, ibid. Prison of, ibid. Police-office of, 271. Committee of health, ibid. Post-office at, 272. Cathedral at, 273. Catholic church at, ibid. Greek church at, 274. Rascolnics church, ibid. Jews' synagogue at, 275. Greek burying-ground at, ibid. Jews' burying-ground at, 276. Plague burying-ground at, ibid. Town hospital at, 277. Benevolent society of the ladies of, 279. Society of prison discipline at,281. Museum of, 283. Imperial agricultural establishment at, 284. Agri- cultural society of southern Russia, ibid. Establishment for the preparation of mineral waters, 287. Lyceum of Richelieu, ibid. Institute for noble young ladies at, 291. School for Oriental languages at, 292. Public garden at, 294. Theatre at, ibid. The Club at, 295. Assembly- room at, ibid. New resourse at, 296. Hotel du Nord at, ibid. Race-course at, 297. Bathing-houses at, ibid. Odessa Journal, 297, 298. State of literature and the fine arts at, 299. English sheep imported into, 300. Ge- neral notice of vineyards in the liberties of the town of, 301, 302, 303, 304. Markets, &c., 305. Rents at, 306. Fuel, 307. Native coal brought to, 308. Objects of luxury at, 310. Coutas at, 31 1. Account of the dreadful plague which prevailed in 1812-13 at, 312. Primary measures to arrest the contagion, 315. Progress of the contagion, 317. The town in quarantine, 318. Con- tinuance of the precautionary measures, 322. General symptoms observed in those who laboured under the plague, 324. Tables of the mortality, 327. Means of prevention, 328. Curious case of insusceptibility of the plague, 329. Residence at, 331. Odessa, Imperial visit to, in 1828, 367. Post-office false marche route, 441. Odessus, 183. Olga Nicolaievna, the Grand Duchess, 371. Olgopol, 436. Olmutz, 458. Oliza, Count, 150. Orch.T, 131. Miserable accommodations at, 132. I I 48-> INDEX, Orchitza, 131. Orlai, Dr., 275. 288. 289. 382. Orlof, Countess, 376. 384. Orzechi, 131. Osbina, lvS7. Ostend, 468, 469. Ostrog, 445. Ouroosof, Princess, 57. Outchinnikof, M., 262. P. Padaroshna lost, 160. Passau, 462. Paul, Emperor, 187. 244. Perama, 435. Perofsky, M., 380. Pesostnaja Buda, 137. " Petersburg, St., " author of, and other writers on Russia, 36. — , author of, and Madame — — — , 111. •, not a fair account of Russia, 111, ., residence in, 23. Pheophelova Poustine, 124. Piller, M., 379. Polish Jews, filth of, 131. Poloviki, 130. Porkhof, 126. Potier, Major, 302. Pototskii, Count and Countess Boleslas, 150. Severin, 334. Stanislaus, 368. 385. Pouschkine Alexander, 6S. Priskoukha, 127- Prnpoisk, 136. Proskurof, 440. Przemis, 457. Potyerakin, Prince, 168. 178. 181. 336. «_«- . — , monument to, 358. Punishments, capital, abolished by the Empress Elizabeth, 78. ^ , inflicted by the Emperor Nicholas, 79. Punishment of forgery in Austria, 458. INDEX. R. 1*83 Rabovitchi, 136. Radzivilof, 447. Rainaud, Baron, 261. 295. 311. 357. Ratisbon, peculiar head-dress at, 463. Rhazes, M., 397. 399. 404. Rhine, voyage down, 465. Ribas, Admiral, 178, 179. 183, 184. Ribaupierre, M., 106. Richelieu, Duke de, 190. 195. 273. 288. 291. 297. 314. 320. 322. 329. 336, 337. .^«-«_ J statue of, 334. -, monument to, 335. •, Duchess de, 336. Roads, log, 445. Romanzof, Captain, 167. Rosenburg, gardens of, 4. Rossa, R., 155. Russia, designs of, on the East Indies, 266. , Little, 138. , New, 158. , White, 128. , writers on, and the author of " St. Petersburg," 36. Russian consul's invitation to medical men, 100. ■ douaniers, anedote of, 466. equipages, 69. female society, state of, 66. 78. government's conduct to English medical men, 105. — faithless poHcy respecting Odessa, 195. Jews, filth of, 131. ladies, beauty of, &c., 57. medical officers, condition of, 98. military officers, education of, 63. mode of raising the wind, 104. mountains, 51. ' posting, system of, 87. proverb, 35. seigneurs, treatment of English physicians, 107* I I '2 481^ INDEX. Russian servage, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78. slave, anecdote of, 354. stoves, 83. Rutland, Duke of, 300. S, Sacken, Field Marshal Count, 134. Samoillof, Count, 359. Sarvintzy, 437. Sassitskaya, 172. I, plague monument at, ibid. Savranka, river, 436. Scherbinin, M., 357. Schmidt, M., 284. Sea, the Black, 174. Semipolki, 144. Sicard, M., 335. Siednef, 137. Sklof, 133. Snow storm, accident in consequence of a, 140. Sophia, 114. Sorokina, 126. Souhakleia, 159. Sourage, 128. Spada, M., 357. Speranskii, General, 81. Sphola, 158. Sporitis, Major, 301. Staro Constantinof, 440. 443- '* Steppes, the," 139. Szlykova, 128. Szurilova, ibid. T. Tarnow, 457- Tcht^mer, 137. Tchernigof, town of, ibid. Tchetcherst, 137. Teschen, 457. Thorn on, M., 295. INDEX. 485 Tiraspol, 431, 432,433,434. Toultchine, 437. Toultza, 445. Trick played upon the Governor-general, 403, 404. Trubetskoi, Prince, the late director of the customs at Odessa, 258. ^ — , Prince, his brother, now in chains in the mines of Siberia, ibid. — , General, 385. Turkey, the late war in, 360. Turkish prisoners, 6000 frozen to death, 141. talisman, 203. Usviat, 128. U. V. Vamskaia, 434. Varkovitchi, 445. Varna, authentic particulars relative to, 386. , notice of antiquities brought from, 406. Vasilkof, 147. Velikie Louki, 127. Venning, Mr., 28. Verba, 446. Veta, 147. Veylandova, 165. Vienna, 458, 459. Vincentovka, 155. Vinnitza, 439. Viska, 158. Vitebsk, town of, 129. Vladimir St., order of, 51. Vodianoe, 163. Volsey,M., 291. Volskonsky, Prince, minister of the Imperial household, 376. 384. > in chains in the mines of Siberia, 339. ' , Princess, accompanied her husband volun- tarily to Siberia, 340. 486 INDEX. Voronovcliina, 136. Voronovitza, 439. W. Waterloo, 468. Willock, Sir Henry, 8. , Lady, ibid. Wilson, General, 45. Witt, Count de, 253. Woinovitch, Admiral, 179. 181. Wolf hunt, 151. Wurtzburg, 464. Wvlie, Sir James, 45. 114. 277. 289. 390. 425. Yagorlic, 434. Yastchera, 121. Z. Zabokezyezka, 436. Zalazy, 125. Zapardinsky, 442. Zaslaf, 443. Zoritch, General, 133. Zugine, M., 180. THE END. LowDOW : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoodc, New-Street- Square. COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 10 10677593 947.01 M846 4 i> APR & 1954 "f '■f^' ' rs-3 m^'Tm^- : . !te,a^3^' *ii?A-ti f^'M ■T^"»^#|ftl i .-^3 tlr. -.«, ■'-, - »- ■?i ;.«. *£}« r- ■-f,*^ J *l ■■ff ^^. HI* i^l :i%i a?*! .,« ;- i<- 1^: 'K^II&Nfi •!>'> -f