Oases in Gotham BY PHILIP VERRILL MIGHELS HER parks are the pleasant oases that redeem New York, the great American desert! With its ugly cliff - dwellings, rock - paved trails, and canons of iron and adamant, barren, un- lovely, shimmering dizzily with summer heat and back-flung glare of the naked sun, and all of it rendered daily more desolate by added population, the on- creep of asphalt, more brick caverns and concrete sidewalks, gray and harsh as lava, New York is a region of mu- nicipal aridness, alleviated, like the stark Sahara, only where the soul of creation breaks through. Man has ceased to marvel that the Afric sands yield wells and greenery in all their bare austerity, and now he com- mences to marvel more that the city should achieve a like relief. Moreover, for every lone caravan of men and brutes that cruises Sahara, glad to crawl to the coolness and fragrance of the emerald havens, there are all the innumerable caravans of an empire to hasten, famish- ing for nature's benediction, to the parks and oases of Manhattan. And these are caravans of the sorely tried, the city-bound who may not escape the burning precincts of the city desola- tion, the homeless, the comfortless, and the children who are otherwise denied a contact with the bosom of the earth. To what extent the city parks are oases to these many wayfarers may be appre- ciated only by those who have felt and understood the mighty thirst and in- stinct for physical intimacy with the sod that is in us all, or have sometimes seen the tens of thousands of otherwise hope- less human beings strewn upon the grass and earth mercifully left unoccupied by the appalling growth of America's lar- gest metropolis. By great good fortune they are fairly numerous and tolerably hospitable, these products of man's noble alliance with creation, despite the reversal of processes whereby man with his town has desertized an island once all oasis, leaving here and there a speck or lake of greenery un- blanketed by paving-stones and houses. New York begins with a park and ends with its teeth in nature's open country. Walled in by the most tower- ing buildings in the world, the old- time Battery affords first relief in the man-made desert, at the city's seaward end, or southern extremity, while far to the north Van Cortland Bark and the Bronx behold the steady advance of wall and macadam that tread down the trees and grass and hillocks of natural rock between themselves and the scattered green acres of the town. Manhattan Island is restricted as to space, and may not, like London, for instance, afford vast spaces such as Hyde and Regent parks, Kensington Gardens, and prodigious heaths and commons. Nevertheless it is doubtful if any large city of the world has been more pic- turesquely or nobly abetted in the crea- tion of her parks than Manhattan by the splendid handicraft of nature. The entire surface of the island was formerly a broken succession of hills, slopes, meadowed hollows, and massive ledges of rock. With all manner of trees and its buttresses of granite, it was all originally a park of alternating glade and rugged eminence. To-day, in a num- ber of the parks, both dell and cliff, with all their stately brotherhood of trees, remain almost as the world - heaving forces of ci'eation left them, with here and there a hollow filled to make a lake, and here and there a stream of water re- supplied to a channel, by way of addi- tional charm. To the lover of beauty the least ap- pealing of the parks of New York are those reduced by necessity to mere con- ventional form — the open spaces, like Battery Bark, and Union, Madison, and * Washington squares, such as cities F 778 • 1 throughout the world invariably support. The four ineomparaliles are Central Park, Morningsido, Riverside, and the Bronx. Nevertheless it must be ad- mitted that for sheer comfort to the weary and relief to homeless pilgrims of the desert the open squares, with their fountains, shade, and benches, though ceaselessly assaulted by the roar, grind, and rumble of the vast metropolitan machine, are far in the lead of their calmer, more splendid prototypes beyond. It must not be supposed that these lesser oases are unattractive. Battery Park is a level field of grass and flourish- ing trees that, bathed in the sunlight of a spring or autumn day, calls thousands to its benches. Its sea-wall fronts the harbor, where the white-winged gull, the surging tug. and the greyhound of the wide Atlantic pass ceaselessly in the traf- fic and pageant ry of life. When the bay is a sparkling mirror of gold and the leaves contentedly murmur in a lan- guid breeze from Cuba, there are thou- sands of foot-sore, heart-sore wanderers who find the old Battery as welcome as a bit of heaven immeasurably detached from its source. Considerably farther up the island, where noisy trade, close crowding of in- habitants, and haunting smells of man and his devices devastate vast areas, I found a representative oasis of this humbler type, worn nude by the frantic enjoyment of its charms indulged in by its daily visitors. It is little Hudson Park, by its size and functions a ju- venile well in the desert. It is just a mere postage-stamp of greenery, embossed on a corner of the town. It is charming nevertheless, and unexpected, with its granite pagoda fountain, its large limpid pool in a sunken garden, its trees and playground, and all too prodigal meed of hospitality. For the greater part its wayfaring desert travellers are youngsters. It is they who have flung themselves, as it were, on its lap till its grasses have all been worn away. It is they who breathe a fresher elixir from the cool- ness and plash of its waters. And their cries of delight arise on the clangor of iron-laden wagons, hoof-beat of horses, and train roar thundering by incessantly on the elevated structure, as they romp in the swings, soar skyward on the see- IIARPER'S MONTHLY MAGAZINE. saws, and shoot down the polished flumes that an Indulgent city parent has pro- vided. Fancy a desert oasis with a slippery chute, made and installed for children to use in wearing out their nether garments! What wonder the grasses have succumbed! Yet why an oasis that does not serve its uses? And this one, I repeat, is for tiny waifs, otherwise famished in the desert. Judged by the standard of every-day utility and comfort, the mere conven- tional oases are the most indispensable of all. Judged as one is wont to judge his mother, they are probably the loveliest 89 well. They fulfil, as it were, a mater- nal function, impossible to parks more distant from the scenes of city strife and desert weariness. Washington Square is barely removed from, and Union and Madison squares are fairly upon, the great main highway through the desert — Broadway — the trail of ceaseless cara- vans, burdened with riches and poverty, prodieral joys and fathomless woes, trag- edy, hope, and despair. Hundreds of thousands of exhausted travellers occupy these resting - spots throughout the year, from babies half stifled by the desert heats and aridness, to feeble old men, fast nearing the end of their journey. Save for the trees and grass, however, there is nothing natural in any of these three, jiothing to single them out for particular beauty or the characteristics of Manhattan's nobler oases. There is nothing in any one, for instance, comparable to the slender, pre- cipitous beauty of Riverside Park, on the Hudson's edge, beginning at the seat of commercial war, by coal and railway yards or dingy wharves, half-way up the city's length, and practically terminating at the tomb of Grant, with its legend, " Let us have Peace." For sheer cultured loveliness, situa- tion, and variety of contour, texture and foliage, this exquisite strip has no rival in the land. Not only is all the natural growth augmented by quadrupled rows of elms in the famous drive along its crest, and not only are its walls, its granite stairways, and its natural rock masses all masterpieces of harmony and appropriateness, but the mile-wide Hudson laves its sloping edge, and across the tides the Jersey heights OASES IN GOTHAM. 779 and Palisades are reared in ever- changing aspects of magnificence. From a thousand view-points along its rim this park pre- sents enchanting vis- tas. Tall poplars, gnarled old oaks, beeches, birches, and willows supply the charm inseparable fro m varied leaf- ages. Glimpses of sunlit river, over the trees and through the trees, succeed one an- other for two or three miles of its length. Great, wide- spreading lawns are laid obliquely from its top retaining-wall along its undulating acclivities, none of them level, and all of them rendered more inviting by their slanting inequalities and intimate associa- tion with colossal mounds of rock. The city's finest viaducts are built above and somewhat incorpo- rated with the walls, hills, and chasms of Riverside, particular- ly on the newly com- pleted extension above Grant's tomb, where granite in arched magnificence has been employed. It is more these hillside features than anything else that render New York's oases distinct from those of other great commercial centres. Thus Morningside Park, like a flawless gem spilled out of great Central Park itself, and impaled upon a rugged upheaval of adamant, hangs half on hillside and half in a val- ley at least one hundred feet below. In something less than a mile of length it exemplifies a series of natural and artificial beauties unequalled else- where on the continent. It has ledges of rock as huge as a castle that nature Vol. CXX.-No. 719.-97 The cool Seclusions of Central Park alone has been bold enough to sculpture. It has basins of lawn and acres of trees to hold or to filter the sunlight. Its upper edge is topped by a drive hugely buttressed by a wall of granite, railed with bronze, surpassing for splendid solidity and architectural perfection any masonry in all the town. The walk and drive above this bril- liant little jewel of a park overlook all its slopes and abrupt descent of rocks, lingo parapets, impressive in their bulk and symmetry, rise level with the drive, their bases set on ledges far below, their grim, dark masses overcrept with ivies that ripple in the breeze. Such stairways as imagination builds to ascend to palaces of kings, like ancient Solomon's, rise to terrace on terrace, and warm up goldenly in the morning's sun as the first rays fall upon the park. They, too, are granite, railed with bronze, their posts, steps, and structure excep- tionally massive, and overtwined with clinging vines that, when the autumn burnishes their garnet and their gold, flame upward on the clean gray bulk with a splendor only possible to nature. More than any of the city's parks this same little Morningside flourishes in poplars. Their tall minuet in the sum- mer breeze is graceful beyond expression. They render the scene peculiarly Italian, rising on successive terraces and domi- nating all the other trees. Indeed, there is nothing in Gotham quite so Italian as this perfected bit of landscape. Shrubbery, trees that bloom and fling out redolence from petalled chalices, and groves that sift a dappled gold upon the Morningside Park, hanging half on a Hillside, is a perfected Bit of Landscape slopes and cool expanses of grass, com- plete the enchantment that the small oasis exerts on the hundreds of children and adults who, during the summer, practically live within its borders. It has nooks of shade for the hotter seasons of the year, and niches of sun- shine and protection from the winds of spring and failing autumn. Certain old cronies, veterans of our Civil War, and veterans also of the battle to survive, I have frequently found pre-empting favorite haunts of sun or shade in this poetically christened bit of Creation's art, content to pass their declining days in the narrow confines of the little oasis, beyond which stretches the desert. But here as elsewhere the babies comprise the endless caravans, halting on the march of life for the needful intimacy with earth and grass and trees that such a spot makes possible. Central Park, unlike the others, sup- plies an oasis for rich and poor alike. The wealthy, famishing in Saharas of gold for opportunities for basking in the curiosity of their neighbors and less wealthy kind, flee to this vast green place of nature's kindliness by thousands, to drive, ride, and motor through its avenues 7W HARPER'S MONTHLY MAGAZINE. of Bbade and parade, no matter what the season. The poor seek it no less eagerly for its benches, its lakes, and its cahn, wide holms of grass. Every feature embodied in the smaller parks. is exemplified here in a magnified or modified degree, with many other at- The Loveliness of Bronx Park is that of lncitied Nature tractions exclusive to itself. In its ridges, masses, and ledges of rock, and its unmolested groves and tangles of trees and vines, it is incredibly " wild " and natural. Four dainty lakes and sev- eral bickering streams, the former filling dimples in the folded hills of rock, the latter following small ravines and rill- ways, encourage many animals also to seek a refuge from a harsher world and bide a while at peace. Contented ducks from polar inclemen- cies make yearly homes among the water- fowl domesticated in the park, while thousands of unalarmed squirrels live, breed, and flourish in its trees, feeding mi the bounty of admiring friends. These frisky and confident little rogues are rapidly becoming famous for their friendliness with man. How much they contribute to i lie enjoyment of I he chil- dren can never be estimated, except per- haps hy a wise Record- ing Angel of things divine and eternal. Aside from the splendid driveways, the saddle-path for equine travellers, the boat-, lovers' pathways, and basins for children to use in sailing boats and dabbling, there are many portions of the park devoted to other oasean comforts. Per- haps the most charm- ing example of its hospitality is that ac- corded to hundreds of tiny May-queens, in the spring and early s\immer. I have seen no less than fifty at a time of these dainty little monarchs, each with her court about her on the grass and in the shade, where the park's great bosom is levelled in maternal amplitude. All through the month of May and into June they reign. If the first of May is cold or peevish, what matter? There are four or five Saturdays remaining, some of which are certain to be bright. On these occasions the grass is the children's for tournament and romp; and if with gauze and cheese-cloth in- stead of silk and cloth-of-gold they pitch their pavilions on the field, they are none the less royal, none the less happy for the day of their mimic splendor and the sceptre of love they wield. I have seen the little May-queens often regalized with pink mosquito-net, in lieu of costly lace and satins. They march to the park not infrequently from many blocks away, for few of the poor abide Drawn by G. ti. Shorty FROM A THOUSAND VIEW-POINTS RIVERSIDE PARK PRESENTS ENCHANTING VISTAS Drawn by 0. H. Shorey HUDSON SQUARE OASES IN GOTHAM. 785 very close to these favored vales of Elysium. From squalid tenements and bawling streets, insufferably noisy, fetid, and arid, they issue, togged out in holiday attire and urged to the rhythm of a martial step by valiantly beaten drums. There in the cool and fragrance of the shaded or sun- gilded oasis they remain all day to play ; and then, at dusk, to the beat of the some- what wearied in- strument, and in laggard, broken order, go back once again to the desert, to resume the long pilgrim- age of life. East River Park, at the brink of the ceaseless water traffic that plies Long Island Sound, is another of the small oases that municipal paternity has halted to supply. Like Hudson Park and the Bat- tery, it is almost exclusively em- ployed by t h e humbler beings of the city. From its cool seclusion by the water's edge are visible the huge steel spans that link Long Island and Manhattan. It is merely the regular, conventional oasis, spared from a greedy city's needs. Equally detached, but far more pic- turesque and startling as a bit of nature, set in the midst of the town, is little Mount Morris Park, up at the eastern edge of Harlem. As the earth once Hung off a satellite, so Central Park, or Morningside, might almost have flung off this rock-saddled island of greenery, to land it in the midst of busy streets. It is clearly the offspring of one or the other in its natural characteristics, but the " Mount " from which it derives its name is more astonishing than anything like it in either of the other parks by reason of the abruptness with which it Scaling the Cliff in Mount Morris Park rises from the valley of streets in all that neighborhood. Such a cliff of rock as it presents in the miles of human habitations seems almost incredible, even here in Gotham, that was once all oasia and hills. In sharp contrast with the small, con- ventional parks of the city are the two great domains of grass and calm com- prised in the Bronx and Van Cortland 78G HARPER'S MONTHLY MAGAZINE. parks, at the city's northern limits. The Bronx is sufficiently large to accommo- date a river — or a stream that is so described. It is said, indeed, that a British admiral, during the war of the Revolution, commanded his captains to sail up the Bronx and destroy the camp of Washington, adjacent to its hanks. The captains made the effort, discovered the Bronx to be a pocket-sized hrook, and reported that they would (|tiite as readily undertake! to sail up the spout of a kettle. It is large enough, however, for the uses of lovers and for heauty and charm, in their annual autumn armada, to navi- gate with exquisite argosies, scattering gold and crimson as they go. The loveliness here, as in portions of Van Cortland Park, is that of un- citied nature. These are such oases as Manhattan was, before man came with streets and houses. Bird-song has lin- gered and wild flowers have nested here always, in confidence that man and his desert were halted far beyond. They are pimply open world of joyous creation, merged on their farther borders with the vast, unexampled oasis, stretching with a heauty and hospitality that have been the refuge and marvel of the world — the acres and States of the continent, three thousand miles in width. Like Regent's Park in London, the Bronx oasis has extended its welcome to the somewhat reluctant animals of the globe. Its zoological gardens are destined to surpass in completeness and heauty every institution of their type in the world. Van Cortland, like some of London's heaths and commons, pro- vides vast opens for golf and other out- door diversions. It and the Bronx are playgrounds for grown-up children. A frozen oasis may perhaps be an anomaly, yet I have seen the parks of .Manhattan no less inspiring and spirit- gratifving in the winter, under hlankets of snow, than in their most delectable raiment. And he whose joy it is to be- hold a thousand youngsters sledding down the icy inclines of Morningside and Riverside parks will hesitate, as I do now, to pronounce which season of the year is least charming for the little desert wayfarers most in need of these camps of nature. Daisy Time BY SARA TEASDALE T PLUCKED a daisy in the fields, 1 And there beneath the sun I let its silver petals fall One after one. I said. " He loves me, loves me not," And oh, my heart beat fast, The flower was kind, it let me say " He loves me," last. I kissed the little leafless stem, But oh, my poor heart knew The words the flower had said to me, Thev were not true. AVER" DURST