MASTER NEGA TIVE NO. 91-80363 MCROFILMED 1991 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES/NEW YORK as part of the ''Foundations of Western Civilization Preservation Project'' Funded bv the NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES Reproductions may not be made without pemiission from Columbia University Library COPYRIGHT STATEME \ S The copyright law of the United States - Title 17, United States Code -- concerns the making of photoco oies or other reproductions of copyrighted material... Columbia University Library reserves the right to refuse to accept a copy order if, in its judgement, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of the copyright law. AUTHOR: HARPER, CHARLES GEORGE TITLE: ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ... PLACE: LONDON DATE: [1 922] COLUMBIA UNTVERSl-n 1 TBRARIES PRESERVA-ilON DEI^AR-i'MENT Master Negative # IflllLLQGR APiiLCMICR(3F0RNl T ARG E I Origsn.il M-aeri.i! as rihned - Iixisling iiibiiograpluc RvCxji.': 9'^ ■ . 2 Harper^ Charles George, l^ti:;-^ *'^^ ^'^'* -''^-^ i^^ HuHand: noi^-s and impressions in the ]H- 1:^22 i iaa-i rali'u b}* tjie aiili Har- nuia l.oaauii, V, F;aratr viii, 9-266 p. incl. front., illus., plates. 221'"^. 1} Kestriciiur.:^ a a bt: 1. Netherlands— Descr 5c ^rav i Title. Library of Congiess lj]}-f lis ••• ~.«, «i 23-6573 O ' rHCliNICAL, MiCKOI-ORM DATA RFDUaTION KATiO: IMAGE PLACEMENT:'" I A ^"1?4^' IB Ilji .. DATE EILMED:_^ a ■ -' ' INETIALS V'U^'D- EI L M E D B \ ; RESIjAKCH P UfJEICATlONS. INC WOODBRlD GErCl' / c Association for information and Image IManagement 1100 Wayne Avenue, Suite 1100 Silver Spring, Maryland 20910 301/587-8202 Centimeter 1 2 3 llllillllllHIIIIIIIIIII I I Inches 11 1 5 6 iliiiiliiiiliiiil 7 8 iilimliiiil ITT 1.0 LI 1.25 9 10 n iiiiliiiiliiiiiiiiiliii 12 13 14 15 I I I liiiiliiiili mm 1^ 2.8 2.5 2.2 ■" 14.0 2.0 1.8 1.4 1.6 TTT llllllll IlilllllllllllllMIIII TTT MfiNUFflCTURED TO flllM STPNDfiRDS BY nPPLIED IMfiGE, INC. * -Eii' . ■*^: m ^'^^^^^^^^^'-■^■^ ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND I r^ mftvy \ I r ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND BY THE SAME AUTHOR The Brighton Road: The Classic Highway to the South The Gret X^^th Road: Ix)ndon to York The Grli. :\ ...ih Road: York to Edinburgh The Dover Road : Annals of an Ancient Turapike The Bath Road : History, Fashion and Frivolity on an old Highway Thf Manchester and Glasgow Road: London to Manchester The Manchester and Glasgow Road : Manchester to Glasgow The Portsmouth Road : To-day and in Davs of Old The Exeter Road : The West of England Highway The Holyhead Road : London to Birmingham The Holyhead Road : Birmingham to Holyhead The Norwich Road : An East^Anglian Highway The Hastings Road: And the Happy Springs of Tunbridge The Oxford and Milford Haven Road: London to Gloucester The Oxford and Milford Haven Road : Gloucester to Milford Haven The Newmarket and Cromer Road The Cambridge and King's Lynn Road : The Great Fenland Highway /' ', jv I ri ' > t '. 1:.* RA ^ ^Mf .A — ■ ■ ■ ■■--■'-; f -Jk ■ ^^- «— ■ ^ ■ ' • ■ * ** "* ' V DOEDRECUT. v~ % - THE ROAD IN \ f * i NOTES AND IMPRESSIONS IN THE UNTRY Of 1)YK.E> AND CAiNALS BY CHARLES G. HARPER ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR LONDON : CECIL PALMER Oakley House, Bloomsbury Street, W.C. i ■3^7'/^ FIRST EDITION 1922 COPY- RIGHT Printer n at the Athenaeum Print! n^ w • edhMa Mi r- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS SEPARATE PLATES DORDEECHT Frontispiece PAGE Breda . . . . . . • . • • • • • • • • . . 41 Leyden : Stadhuis Tower and the Old Rhine . . . . 95 Old Houses on the Waterloo Plein, Amsterdam . . ..115 The Waag and Stadhuis, Monnickendam 127 HooRN Waterpoort 145 Enkhuizen : the Waterpoort and Drommedaris Tower . . 151 Hindeloopen, and the Palisades of the Zuider Zee. . . . 173 HiNDELOOPEN ChURCH AND StADHUIS 179 Workum.. .. .. .. •• •• •• •• •• 185 Staircase to the Stadhxhs, Bolsward 193 Grouw . . . . . . . . . . • • • • • • • • 197 The Stork's Home on a Dutch Farm 205 A Dutch Country House : Dekema State 215 The Hindeloopen Room in the Friusch Museum, Leeuwarden 229 Groote Markt and St. Martin's Tower, Groningen.. .. 239 A Dutch Country Scene : Road and Canal 245 Zulphen's Skyline : " The Last Enchantments of the Middle Ages .. .. •• •• •• •• •• •• 257 ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT The Zeeland Head-dress Town Hall, Middelburg . The " Scots " House, Veere The " Prinsenhof " page . 24 . 27 . 34 . 66 vui. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS i : M luritehuis Kembrandt's Mill, Leyden Ex-Voto Ships, Haarlem The Groote Markt, Haarlem . . Amsterdam Gate, Haarlem . . The Weepers' Tower, Amsterdam . . Kasteel Ass um burg Volendam A Volendam Fisherman A Little Boy of Volendam A Little Girl of Marken Fisherm'-'^ Houses, Marken . Market Place. Hoora The Little Shop, Hoorn Wieringen Harbour Oofiterland " Schopenhauer, kom " Reclamation Works on the Zuider Zee Old Doorway at Hindeloopen . A Canal Street, Bolsward Stadhuis, Bolsward • • • • • Waterpoort, Sneek Sirtema State Finial to Farm Roof The Hinnerin Washing in the Moat "n njp Entrance to the Popta Slot The Zakkerdragerspiepke, Franeker xi JJatch Clothes Horse . An Old-fashioned Signpost Another Old-fashioned Signpost One of the Hunnebedden, Rolde The Staphorst Costume Taking Toll on a Canal FAOa • • • • . . 80 • • • • • • .. 98 • • • • • • .. 104 • • • • • • .. 107 • • • • • • .. 110 • • • • • • .. 112 • • • • • • .. 120 • • « • • • .. 130 • • • t • • .. 132 • • • • • • .. 134 • • • • • • .. 137 • • • • • • . . 141 • • • • • • .. 148 • • • • • • .. 149 • • • • • • .. 158 • • • • > • .. 162 • • • • » • .. 164 • • • • » • .. 168 • • > • 1 .. 177 * * ■ • « . 187 * • « • « . 189 * • ■ . 191 • • • . 200 • • « . 201 • • « . 207 * * • . 218 • • • . 220 • • « . 221 * * • . 224 • • » . 234 * * • . 236 * * • . 238 • • a . 244 • • 9 . 250 * * • . 254 INTRODUCTION p-,-'. C< To vittii iiolland is, for the stranger to that country, to be interested and amused all day and every day. Everything is strange and br- ine's usual experiences. The scenery i i most part is nothing, for aim i d^ vufire n ] J the provinces of Drenthe and n . is formed by the sand and mud L:ia nov. |: 'Juring iinroiinti-fl nuP:. from the n ?it « I Europe by the IH me and otlipr r V rs 1? J it is therefore level. lov< ! Uiif wp]! below the level of vers, and it is ; a lijru: series of -Lihr^- that special Gov staat." There ib ... except iii--t^ ' ' • ?()<;< I S t * ; I ■ !■ , :%. i i ^^ h ■ r . iiii,/.rf = lv del do 1 1 ea and tiie rom inunaai t!i only by ^- dykes maintained by rtment, tlu Water- .-Tuiie m tilt' (;*)untr\" '■ the few '' macaes — i^ ^ r^ altogether correct. Some do, in the :* parts : but even iix iLe smaller provincial u< thi jiutth girls — the '' meisjes," that is say, the " missies " — are often as up-to- ;f^ i y London flapper, anii wtar as neat ' - nid stockings — and just as abbreviated } Miandkerchief skirts; and they (the gnib, not the skirts), are not infrequent \ retty. '^ lir ', it is true, what we th — le more tvyiU'iiliv I?:;^ch; solid, and w\U\ T V hi country are i n ii'-'^iL du'ur^c ill FTolland thaii in the fOiiiifrv, wooden shoes, *" i coiunionh worn, but they must *iit rniir a house, almost as religiously as the i nn f d must remove their footgear i V ii.^-han countries on eiiterini^ a nio>que. ' ' .«= ' < t i ;t 11 ud AC lar in * » i H' 1 ' Oil Uli ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND a usual sight outside Dutch cottages is the family row of klompen outside the iit doors. A ^Ucinge feature to tourists in liiis country is the little light that almost invariabi fnay be seen, at any hour of the day, through the windows of the front room of almost any kind of house, as you pass by. It may be white, red, green, or any colour. You wonder at it, and speculate what it can be. You know tl T'\' :^i ■ j • generally not Roman Catholics ; and it ib liiciciore not likely they have little lighted religious shrines in their houses. When you become acquainted with Dutch domestic interiors the mystery is revealed. The little lights are, in fact, coffee and tea lights. As the Uatch drink coffee, and what they call " thee," all day, they like to have the water aways on, or near, the boil ; and tho^c mystic illuminations are produced by night- lights, in a small coloured-glass table fitment for that purpose. It is not the object to follow in these pages the political history of the country. It is ruled at this day by the House of Orange-Nassau, descen- dants of that William of Orange, " William the Silent," who rescued the country from the Spanish power in 158 < and was slain in 1584, at Delft, \>j ^he hand of a Spanish assassin. The motto everywhere seen in Holland beneath the Koyal arms, Je maintiendrai, is a portion of his own declaration, Je maintiendrai piHe et justice. THE HOUSE OP NASSAU 13 L ii i.f '. t ^ notablv 1 1 i fiia iTlailc t 'i r\ I ? died if 1:0 theor 1 1 tl ii .5 use of Nassau has by no means ex- able history, but it has survived, 1.U umes menaced with extinction, I hr reign of William th Th^^^ who I^ a leaving a daughter of a second If t J'luicess, Wilhelmina, boiij it; i ^ , nt Jueen of Holland. At one time in after the death of his son, the i'l i ce of I ' h: ally called by the Frencit 1 ris, too well known as " Citron "), wlio \ 11 courses, there was no heir. Indeed, houses were maintained on the same f n V ate families, it could be said that Wilhelmina the House of Nassau ^nc iiiairied in 1901, a German, 1 r^ a Duke of Mecklenbui:! ^ h" h:, - le heir to the crown is the i icess 1909. ON THE ROAD IN 1 1 VV 1— # 1— #X~jL ...\ 1 Tferf are several ways of entering Holland ; by the Hook from Harwich, and so through bclxiedam by train to li tterdam ; by Flushing from Folkestone ; or by Harlingen in the north, sailing from Brewer's Quay by the Tower of ]. hlon Each way has, of course, ^t? -t -^^nl recommendation, according to the fancies oi iim tourist , but the best r t J t'" toast-and- water land of dykes and nds uu canals is by Flushing — or, as the Dutch sehn- write that place-name, " Vlissmgi ( ' It is the best way in the sense of giving you an entrance to 11 Hand in its most charanfpTistic part ; the province of Zeeland, which, as its name would imply, has ever beli ; ^^^d more to tiie sea than tn the land. The heraldic arms of tliH pruvince eloquently allude to this ai. bious ^- ■ -t'T di^jplaying a lion swimming, w ' " Luctor et Emergo " ; that is, "I Lions, heraldically, bear 15 i6 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND theriiseU'*''- Jn all sorts wa^-q n n the shields ims of of ariun iri, Holland; irniii rh,. H,>y,A t^'^-iie old aniini-ij i I v,:r - Mt ancient iJu^^,-*: fami]]fr> ; liu: ,t - v\';i:iiiiifiLf ]i'*n io d iH'iiiie rurHi>it\\ E\'i-r\'- wiu^r^-' !- rhe ■■■ it'triiw "- Ur' licdi, that DaM-h s^vid C'jiiiing rviaiaith- tri-ai tlH' i.;iti!i " a.-^ . and apparenti\' th- t'avn of la^=Mu\ ,.;r=i^=n.^ away north in F[-n;-ian..' . i,:- U.<- iik<' a-- '^a:i'i^ai. Vrnii, thv' ii.t'a' -..-'-rs- iHaU *a \aa\\-, lions i^a i it ever tu La'v't: ijcalj. a-./uiiU iii, li.^c -.\ uliiLi-ai-U ahii xii ^"^'^''^^ nt "a-^^ there n-var wa^^a any. Bii : f a the ognisance to t\'pify hiaii ^-naii'aa^a xu^u it i-^? nnt .tiiv'i^. fnf no panple a a > inimical circumstances ' aaa I Sir I hiO \i. ThH\' have a a^ +■ V »:- ; I ; ■-•; a :■■ • iiion,^ iiiaria.iarir. haM t^ a'-.ia aiaaa^n:o:a with tha ^a.a:..-ao -^ even i'^ iua.ih{o]ii 11 Lib- 1 a/ ii V r in : ana ill 1 a -'■ -a,t aries, \ X ■ i i' ,a tla,;\" fuai -n^^np^-f n a'/ at i)\ii the ^on, n-a t.^aiai ta,aiaMn^ \ > ■ i t „ i ' I - J tiaa,aau a if if re >^^' a.) n, taa^.: afni aaaia. v> ktM,a. tiicic wiia-li tia-v iiad ^a^-at-a, Thr Dat'/h, essentially ^% < iL' a-iaariijU jnM*ta-', aa! \n,a -a\' proudly. . ^ ..a 1 -* are tdie eiiito • .: d- a.ii.^re^ 0! H^- iah^i. ; ., ' cvn.aaii aia: ■ - • . _ - . • •. . a , d < a* aa. a Vullaire. -^ .. • . : a- a- .•! -MOialaa.a sand to n , , . Leydei. a • 'a,. dednrdaMd 11 j.;- a countia- ui " laiuaMX Canada.:' ^' ; canals, wdd-duek for aU'criiativadv lying rumours), and blackguards. Batiiig the caiiai die, and allowing for the a"'' .t' . ■ , • • f aidttcfaTiua, which is as , u:^ a vawa (^o i!ti'aata,ais, indeed, that I " = -a .va^ nivitant to 6-' dave adraa0.a — as above — ' ' lOi a.adaj\- iii tiia aat of ad,u...Oig to it), Voltaire aXaalia tuUv,..a-d Git tlie superiicialities of the Low (djii 11 tries. Uald then: we enter Holland from J ki^liino, That was the way the wags of that time put it ; ending by the deadly gibe of referring to that dilatory commander as '* the late Earl of Chatham." Thus was Walcheren the grave of many a ijiitish soldier. T' it does not seem a prepossessing picture of t li ont-door into a country we are to visit ; f r much has changed in the century or so since, and it is difficult to realise that an isle bu smiling as Walcheren now is, under the summer WALCHEREN 19 sun, could have been once the grave of so many thousands, through climatic conditions. I) u tiie exact geographical circumstances of Walcheren will explain much of that tragic affair. It is, of all the coastwise lands, and of the islands off the coast, the one which lies lowest, and where by consequence the protecting dykes are higher than elsewhere. Adjoining are North and South Beveland and upwards towards the mouths of the Maas and the Rhine are Schouwen, Zierikzee, Duiveland and Tholen ; Over Flakkee, and a number of semi-islanded regions. All these are essentially the ultimate alluvial deposits of those considerable rivers, flowing down from Germany. They were once mud-banks ; the ob- stinate, indefatigable Dutch have embanked them and made them what they are. More remotely, almost all the rest of Holland has the like origin. It is the washings of the continent of Europe. Tn fact. Napoleon, who wanted an excuse for annexing it, and realised these facts, used them as a pretext. He argued, ingeniously enough, that as the land of Holland had been brought down from the continent, in solution, by those rivers, that country did in fact belong by right to those parts of Europe which he had conquered ; and that (pursuing the thing to a logical con- clusion) as he was master of those provinces, so Holland ought to be his. And as there was no one strong enough at the time to resist, 20 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND the country ut;came Ui^^c^ed in 1810 to Prance ^1 ;n:_ *L ' next four years. , ii. 11 ^le is ti. V ourt and Society centre of Holland. All nround that fine crowded town are woodlands ; an unusual feature in this country. A i- in addition, they are very English-looking park-like woods, with many (; ^ tely countr\ residences. With the Dutch, " The IT 2 " is generally written '' ^ Hravenhage," which means literally, ''the i ii ^ hedge," or enclosure. The French style it '' La Haye," and the Dutch themselves have the alternative ''Den 11 ag" Our own village of liciyes, in M iiesex, takes its name from the same root. li i>, or was in Saxon times '' Hesa," the hedge, meaning in that case an enclosed and cultivated part of the surrounding heath or wild land. The name '' 6. Gravenhage," is an instance of what seems to English people the grotesque Dutch way of placing the possessive apostrophe at the beginning, and not at the end of a word, as we would do ; or in this case in the middle. Thus, wo should write " Graven'shage." Tt is in D :h as though, for example, ''Queen's Eoad " Were written " '&. i^iieen Road " ; which, as Euclid vould say, is absurd ; or at any rate, looks so. In its every circumstance The Hague looks the courtly cosmopolitan place it is. The town i- iuil of fine hotels and government buildings. THE CURRENCY 21 I li tired here, more especially than anywhere fit ifolland, that hard white glaring sunlight V u !i i:i more or less general in the couiiuy ; hut tliit of course was more a personal observa- iH ? i: : I particular feature of the place. Tomi-ts in Holland will not find it a cheap country. The chief reason appears to be that tiic uhii of expenditure is not, as it is with us anything like the shilling ; or like the Belgian or French franc, or the German mark. The Dutch unit is a coin worth one shilling and eightpence, and variously called a " florin," a " guelder," or a " gulden." The consequence is that the prices of most articles are exactly in proportion. If we take such an article of common evened ay consumption as a cup of coffee — for the Dutch, at home, or out-of-doors drink coffee all day long — we find that at the wayside inns, and in the cafes in the towns the standard price of a cup of coffee (and that rather a small cup) is the juivalent of fivepence, as against three- pence Hi l.iigiand. Koi shall we find it to be exceptionally good coffee, either. T same rule as 1 1 i prices holds good for hotel tariffs ; and indeed for pverything. The smaller coins are puzzling, and, to the -bugiic^iiiiiaii, used to big pennies and half-pennies, are i' h dously and inconveniently small; those of tiiu lesser values being so small that they are nasily lost. Their relative values easily escape 22 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND PROSPERITY 23 a stranger, especially if he happens to be one who has travelled in Belgium and France and in America, where the respective values of a Dutch cent, an American cent, and French and Belgian centimes are, in ordinary daily affairs very confusing. The florin, guelder, or gulden is divided into one hundred cents. Ten cents are therefore equivalent to twopence — in current iJ. tch talk a '' dubbeltje " — and not, as might rashly be supposed to ten centimes, which are worth rather less than one penny ; while of course ten American cents are fivepence. One's expenditure in Holland is therefore always a surprise of the wrong sort. It might be thought from the foregoing that Holland is a wealthy country. That is not so. Although it is a dear country for living, giving the presumption that the cost of everything is based on the ability to pay high charges, it is not really a rich country. Yet you see here no such signs of abject poverty as will be abun- dantly evident in lands notoriously wealthy. There is not among the Dutch that striking contrast between the wealthy and the humble folk which is familiar elsewhere. If the peasants be, indeed, poor, they do not w^ear the aspect of poverty. Only in the very few large business towns do you see anything like a slum. The oflBcial classes live on salaries that in England would seem impossibly low. Work- I houses are conspicuously absent. It has every look of n contented country. Discontent you will find m the great towns ; Amsterdam and l:>iicidim, and where industrialism flourishes; 1 ut it is not conspicuous elsewhere. liuminent features in all the towns are the '' niidnmannen " and '' Oudevronwen huizen/' They are old men's and old women's almshouses, the most part they are themselves old n i\i ti I . i I" and beautiful and dignified. In the same category are the many '' Weeshuizen," or orphanages, - Miprally to be distinguished by the quaint old-world figures of a boy and girl on the frontage. 1 Hi ill Holland will be found the completest change from the ordinary round of foreign travel. There the ancient ways and things remain Its- ; i r 1 than elsewhere. It is the last refuge Lx the picturesque in the affairs of every day. II Flushing need not long detain us, for its position as a port, with docks and quays, and the comings ah i • ni^?5 of shipping render it more cosmopoli- tan t ii very characteristically Dutch. But in four iiiiic^, when you have come to Middelburg, you will have entered upon something as com- pletely Dutch as anything in Holland. It is a 24 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE MODERN HOLLANDER 25 town completely surrounded by water and by the remains of the ancient " bulwarken," or , that once defended it. IV ] 1 ? r>- T-, :; -*'• THE ZEELAND HEAD-DRESS. circuit of water and defensible walls the older part of the town is contained within a com- t- - ' circular street which under different names, ,1 I 1 encloses most of the places best worth seeing. Hptp f r the first time you see the Dutri ! ^t who owe little to any contact with other com r ^ ; tiiut,c utiL icaii men in dark clothes witL rear pili't-r buckles i\f 'l-'r v. aists, and bolibed hair "peaked ^^a-s: their faai;^ lirvaTiahW alani;- U licit t1 , f. i( shaven and generally with strong aquiime featuies. They look almost Roman. There is nothing of tiitj riaii/ ifals jolly drinking fellows, with round tigures and round faces, about tiinaa As a type, that sort, and the similar Temerb kind, is extinct. They are grave aiui ai n~ and undemonstrative; and they look i i a tav !♦ iadile. They are almost the only ala a! U urg that are not round. goed Z uwsch," goes the old local s rranna j, good Zeelandish " ; so, I da a a we might suppose those sine\ weibhir} lendidly-eupeptic ; looking the picture of health. Walcheren has evidently changed m ' and a rta'are>f^Ti'* ic i-n' rlie better, since a Br lish army wa?^ reducer! by Its climate fifty per cent, little more than a cent in V ago. Here, for the first time you notice, what you will observe all over Holland, the constant type of strong framed woman. 26 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND MIDDELBURG 27 placid-looking and healthy, with a singularly Madonna-like countenance. Of course, the younger women do not exhibit that ' indity to so almost an invariable degree as their elders ; some of the girls, in their curious costumes and extraordinary head-dresses, look extremely charming. There is a variety of head- dress for almost every district, even in Walcheren ; but the rest of the dress varies but little. It xs remarkable for the apron over the dark skirt, for the exceedingly tight black \ ' t bodice, with short sleeves just as tight, endin<7 uvH above the elbows, in all seasons of the year. The arms accordingly become very red ; but liie more nearly they resemble raw beef, the more they are admired. There are few who do not wear tightly round the neck a necklace of coral beads, in sometimes as many as eight rows. But it is the head-dress which is, after all, the chief feature. It is generally a lace cap over a gold band worn just above the forehead. ^- either side of the band a gold wire, twisted the tendrils of the vine, or perhaps like a corkscrew, comes down on the cheek ; or alterna- tively a gold plate, like a little mirror, takes its place. So, many of the girls and women go about their daily vocations in Middelburg with what are in effect blinkers on their cheeks. U tmy aspi- ^0 be exceptionally smart, they will add all sorts of jewellery on to this astonishing The market-place of Middelburg is just outside the circulcii luad enclosing the centre of the town. '•n *^^ t| if if ^' 'h' £ i tr ^' ^ ^ ^ -^ <«*» 'A /-: A f-^": % fk W 'V it it:?} K ^* !• \ ' '''^?«*5 \^ THE TOWN HALL, MIDDELBUEO. Here is the great and lovely Town Fall, built in the early years of the sixteenth n with Tieli and lofty tower and elaborate of 28 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND late n : ; windows ; fretted tabernacles Let -^cii them filled with statues of the ancient rmmts ill i < ntesses of Zeeland and Holland. Ar .ve n v!.. ri-_ liie stu-|. jjUched roof, with iib three ti^T-c; of dormer windows. A : the array of twenty-five historical |n rsonages in the canopied tabernacles, you will find now the present Queen of Holland, with the Tiincess Juliana in her arms. The statue was placed there in 1910. The princess, future Queen 1^ jiiant of Holland, is named after her famous ancestress, the Countess Juliana, mother of Wil- liam th ^ ' \ maker of the independence of ii...ai.a ill lLu 5i:vicenth century. She, too, looks 1 \^ n from her niche among the lawgivers and ^ : ilers, whose rule and law-giving was based on that foundation of all domination, the sword. Figuratively, but not less actually for that, it remains the one stand-by at this day, in the last resort, although it is artillery, and not the sword-blade, that is the arbiter. iiiu Countess Jacqueline was not less fierce tl: m they. -A married thrice, warred and was e^vuniually beaten, and died not much older V^^:n^^ thirty. Amid all those ancient wars and ^"^^^ ' ^ ana u^Aeavals of the times in which she 1 ! vp 1, and later, there yet arose these supremely beauti: rks of architecture, which none of these letter i . >re settled and civilised ages can do more ti,,,, .Ai^.A- : i. : imitate. THE ABBEY SQUARE 29 like that name, '' Jacqueline," but the isually call her '' Jacoba." Although her looks from its tabernacle across the square, i was at Ter Co^s (pronounced * Tei J. a the adjacent island 1 i wi Beve- li=H)se I. land. Zeeland is exceptionally the grain-growing f 1! V 111 e of the country, as the tourist along the J,. i N will perceive; but it would scarci be suspcuLod in the market-place itself, where b i: and eggs and cheese, and pigs seem to be the clxui products offered. Iju ' Abdij, or Abbey, 64 e is the most ancient, as it is also the central part of Middel- e r r , Centuries have passed since the Abbey «■.,-•' \ 1 o* dings hoed to the chantings of m [he cloisters, secluded thren ui-^my gates, and the Council ottid domestic buildings of that disestablished r iMiis house ; but it is the home now of the iicial Council of Zeeland ; and the noble i Chamber is perhaps the finest meeting- A my provincial Parliament m Europe. 3 Abbey church survives, as the Nieuwe \(^n cannot help noticing that, because I I of it is prominent, it rises not far three hundred feet. Apart from its >pire, the Ni-:uwe Kerk is iii:tinr:i: : X the sense v.^ .h:ci\;^.i. T!,„^::Jg:. it ;s of considerable ip:>-ov.T.A»^py.f . f.j| | ^^^ most ut the bhori tower U i ii f 4 %l 30 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE DYKES 31 the Pruiestant Churches in Holland — the '' Her- formde Kerk," the '' Reformed Church " — the interior has been pretty well swept of ancient things, and whitewashed to a dazzling whiteness. In fact, it is the great belfry-tower aforesaid that occupies most attention. The Middelburgers [ rsonify it, and call it " Lange Jan " ; and do the same by the Town Hall (or Stadhuis) tower which is familiarly " De Gekke Betje," or " Foolish li-tsy." Long John ar "^ Foolish Betsy do not get their names from any pre-occupation of the citizens in their architecture but from local amusement at their respective clocks and bells. John, with his carillon of forty-one bells playing elf-like tinkling tunes, eight times in every hour, is ever in advance ; and Betsy comes always, hesitatingly afterwards. It is a memorable experience to hear the Abbey chimes playing the old '' Sea- Beggars' Song : In Nam van Orange maak opn de deur." If we wish to find the Dutch sea-defences at their mightiest, it is at The Helder, away north, or here, on the island of Walcheren, that the sight of heroic works, and the unceasing labours of the Witerstaat, is to be had. Better here, however ; because The Helder, a district and town of naval and military interest only, is not by any means picturesque. li is about ten miles from Middelburg to West t i it U:3. ^T^l i i C vhrre the greatest sea-dykes in Holland found. Except for them, Walcheren dro rned. We have to understand IS country all the rivers, in the course with the never-ceasing embankments inland, as well as along the coast, h the continual bringing down of silt continent in their currents, run at a ji > actually above the level of the land, roover, what are now the broad estuaries of e 11 I 13, the Scheldt, and the Rhine, are the pi 111 i^ of art, and are not natural. They wero originally one vast sandy and muddy delta ; a* : n these now prosperous islands were non- CAiMiiit. They would cease to exist, were it ft i i the Waterstaat, the most important department in Holland. At West th U U % f Kapeile, a great earthen bank, faced on the sea- u M side with stone, and further reinforced \v h wooden piles, with brushwood plaited in I r them, is the chief feature. There are alwav- iiiLii at work on it ; and windmill-pumps are for ever pumping out the surface water. Anyone with a passion for economics might well seek to kno^^ hi the history of all this creative enterprise and never-ending work of vigilance, if a? a fact, it has been worth while ; whether the h been recouped by the productiveness of cuu land thus created. There is, it must be remembered, always the 32 r I . r 4 1 A, 1. i i '. J. ^ - ■. ^ OiV r/^£ /?0.4Z) IN HOLLAND - ' hf^ rouh'- ry iia^ alrf^adv -cverol ;ated, so it n.i-L. ? im.' again. t ! ' u ii, u. u i ;>• t ^ ' nc 111.) -(! t r ^'-./ , iiU uaic Call bi mounds. . i wiiicl; wer ( < f , , • w rffsit'U ; ' t ^ ' i I ^ ^ : i i \ ! • r , , . i n.^.u.^d ! i a ! 't:S • and cattae anu a ,. ~: I > \\ at a r- -f " . , A 1 V had been ^•'^: ;t .a\;i- i a^ ir-in ul the waters, llirn- .i^ -..r fua la they have contidence i 'i'ita \vi, ..-.■■ -:.-ineer> aic indeed iL i technical experience. iai ne i 1 i i\ + rv PC »-v . U ITT Tiiui-.i V a^a'r Middelbnr^ in the X -.r-,r.na tl. I > a la!"!''* M.a'.i'ia: t.ai r = d;r'-atiain f"^a;a W'f-^f T IS a decayed seaa-rr -i aq* ■■' aiaa.t..a:.i lai^.i! -: .Maaa^l-a a;:"--: '■'! n- haanar self. ra, and tuu name of iL i^ iia.tr 01 the Ki^aiish \vi.,a'a -«, a. »- 4. ' . 4. ■,.. j. T?i o Ti a, .. n ^ \%' H fa ■' i ! V - .a' > \\ u ' y . r,terest. 7? ;» a I la a.,:t.,t a n 1 1-, 1 > ' :r)a - ■ ; a to attract %iki k i.^ ■ i. X i La '... I I..' i I VEERE 33 restrictions. Scottish business men were estab- la la i Hi Uiddelburg m thu sixteenth century, Tia ir staple" was situated in that town, uid the} wuia xorbidden to trade elsewhere. If thai vessels were found in other ports, liuiii ships and guui iaght be confiscated when caught, in spite of this penalty, they did trade tu u a r ]aaaa^^ : aiul VeeiQ encouraged ta-:,;:, ' •/ -O' laa,,; fcub>la.ata.U inducements. Cn.-i ...auoi.^ lUaau a .a- the undertaking that, if attacked and plundered la pirates, Veere would, at her own costs and the goods. a which VVi.'^ > \ a I) 1 U \ .i '.I t. > * (d.iarire^. seize the pirates .na The < li IF of that vast and la \n va -ee in neglect was placed at iaq disposal of rhoM S ottish merchants and mfaht be used Uo t,{iajr burial-place; and inaj' oouti aaa.^ :;.-i own rr-ai^-at chaplain, who wn^I by the town with free wine ant Yc^rp. fnn, ad them a new r-Iiura} and a rchyard, and an inn t b a Saots ; the liquo.rs sold, a.t i ii M' dues. Anf! so Yeere prospered, until, in I wrb when aii Netherland dues were reduced could no ^"^^\i.^^ nffar exaeptional I i \va"h manae UL < i i »> I t ! ! \\ i a n iada'-taaa?a -. bb/ 1.795 the Scottish co:anaann- laa'.^ bab been reduced to ah.riost notba.a .a.b t?.j'b.aa tda:^ only vestiges of its fornun:' -\i-^- w . abd ma, now called the '' Campvear,M:.he aia^ ill* b' by the harbour, and the he staple was situated. 4 n IT.. - s ■- fill :-e, 5 5. J... C vs.. i-i. t i- i. ' ' i. .<.. 34 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND n; •; the end of the sixteenth century, and is, excep- tijiially, built of stone. The square window- h^n i- ^^i^^^inunted by elaborate floriated canopies, IV: r ! : :lish observers the look of later in- hi "V „ '^^ . '^:^ t -.J THE "SCOTS HOUSE, VEEKE. sertions, replacing pointed windows ; but that is not the case. This combination, curious to us, was a Dutch architectural convention frequently to be seen. TREASURES OF VEERE 35 I do not share to the full the admiration generally expressed for the tower of Veere's stadhuis, built about 1470. It is too thin and attenuated ill ! iparison with its height. The facade is, hov, er, in some respects the superior of that ui Middelburg's greater building. From their niches still look down the statues of the olden lords and ladies of Veere, who, themselves considerable personages, ruled a considerable place. They have, now that they look upon a ghuo uy village, a far more sentimental interest than they could ever before have commanded. I like, by the way, my casual choice of that past imperativp They command no longer, for their kind has vanished. I do not know much about them : whether they were beneficent autocrats, or, growing used to autocracy, became in time spoiled and tyrannical. But they have in their neglect that appeal residing in all neglected things. Only a few objects remain in Veere to tell of the or? ;L days, but among them is a very magnifi- cent relic indeed — the golden standing cup — ii }ua. like romantic names, you will call it a '' goblet " — presented in the sixteenth century to \' M re by its first Marquis, the lavish Maxi- 1 iiirgundy. It is elaborately ornamented •hasings and enamellings, and is a very precioii< nmiix indeed ; bu precious that from time to time suggestions have been made that it should be given iip bj \^eere and placed in the more 11? \\ e 36 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE GIRLS' HEADDRESS 37 certain custody of the Rijks Museum at Amster- dam. But Veere passionately and rightly, as I think, will not have that. For what is the essential difference, after all, between having an object stolen and relinquishing it into the care of such a mausoleum of artistic objects as a museum, local or elsewhere, especially elsewhere ? In- sidious suggestions have been made for an electro- type copy to be taken, and for Veere to have that ; the original to be taken away. " It will be just as good to look at," is the suggestion ; but Veere will not have that, either. I respect and applaud this sturdy rightness of view ; a rightness so extremely rare in these times that places have become largely despoiled of the interesting things proper to them, for the benefit of private collec- tors or to be set apart and labelled as specimens in galleries. Of course, there is a third resort. If the artistic interest of Maximilian's cup is so great that national or other collections cannot very well do without it, an electrotype copy, being ''just as good," will do equally as well for those who desire it. The poor old church, vastly impending over all the island, has long been in a very bad way. Napoleon barracked his troops in it, but even before then it was dilapidated. Flitter-mouses, UL Lctti, alia owls live within ; the tower has lost its upper stages and is crested with a curious- -- ^-^ ujuia which has the effect of enormously t- I emphasising the scale of the great building, but some small works of reparation are in progress. Very small. So might ants seek to repair an ark. IV From Walcheren I came by way of Arnemuiden across into the island of South Beveland. I met on the way a group of girls with enormous white lace winged head-dresses. They gave me glances not in the least such as you get in England, where,when eye meets eye, it shifts away uneasily, as though caught in a misdemeanour. I recog- nise, well enough, that though they were curious and amusing to me, I was not less strange and amusing and curious to them. So it was a fair exchange of entertainment. Had it not been for those glances, I might have thought from their head-gear that they were nuns who had thought better of the life of seclusion and had burst their bonds, to see what the world was like. But I should have been very wrong — for not only were these girls farmers' daughters of Arnemuiden, but they were Protestant girls. The great sweeping wings of the head-dress proclaimed them such to those who knew. The "Roman Catholics wear a smaller and more severe tj ie. At Arnemuiden I bethought me of a 38 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND TO BREDA 39 cup of coffee, after the manner of Holland ; and sat down to contemplate the strange things of this strange land. And the girl who brought it, seeing that I must be a foreigner, since I said only '' coffee," and spread on the table Dutch coins for her to take what she would, tried English on me ; for they all know well enough when you are a Briton. But I think if she had spoken Dutch I should have understood it better ; although I do not speak the language. For that is the quality of the road-side English you get here, when indeed you get any at all. Failing in this attempt, she moved an arm benignantly over the landscape, and said '' Mooi." I thought she was referring to the cows there, and imitating their '' moo " voices. So I nodded, and drank my coffee and went away. I have since discovered that when you want to declare that anything in Holland is beautiful, you must make a noise like a cow : *' mooi." And so to Ter Goes ; or as already said '* Ter H ose " ; for '' G " usually becomes '' H " at the beginning of a word. We have in England the uncommon personal name of '' Goose." It is of Dutch origin, and derives from this place. From Goes I took the train to Bergen-op-Zoom, thus quitting the province of Zeeland, and coming to the mainland and into Brabant. I will confess that I hastened to this town by the lure of its name ! '' Bergen-op-Zoom " has a fine resonant {'• thunderous sound at the end of it. But Bergen's name is more interesting than the place. There is a queer old gate remaining of the demolished fortifications— the " Gevangen Poort " it is called, the " Prison Gate " ; but for the rest, although the town has a long history of sieges and captures and repulses, ending so recently as 1814, it is stale and flat. So I left it, without knowing even to this day what the " Zoom " in the place-name means. I thought, looking upon the map, I would go to Breda ; for there was once a " Peace of Breda," a treaty signed there ; and Charles the Second spent some time at Breda, during his exile. It is twenty miles from Bergen-op-Zoom to Breda, through Wouw, with the humorous name, Rosendaal, with the pretty one, and Etten. It is extremely uninteresting country, and Wouw, although not of itself particularly enticing, be- comes by contrast a place of an immense interest. It has some features ; the road has none. Rosen- daal is the frontier customs-station on this road. A good many British sailors and marines know it well enough, for in October, 1914, they streamed in some thousands across the frontier, from Antwerp, some twelve miles away, on the fall of that city ; and were received and interned by the Dutch authorities, chiefly at Groningen, in the north of Friesland, for the duration of the Great War. Escaped prisoners of war and refugees 40 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND The u made m« to ^"' :l Sr. If*". , r •i^-' AJ. ^-^'' ch to the kindliness and help ^ lii liiose years. ^resting country all around Breda nk the historical bail ui liiaL place f t ip to lure the unsuspecting str;n : r le, flat and unprofitable land w - ic uiish of bui-doni. Tt i^ n -pnr--]y settled region of rose-growers and general nursery- gardeners. \\ ; .1 iLiey call, across liiai near i r ^ "i^ HH . French-speaking B« ' ' by t- name of ' 1 epinieristes." liuiii ii u uii tiie tall tower of the great and ! ^- ; ch stands out against the sky on these ^- -' 11 stands by the market-place near liie r-n^r- ^-f thi< town o^ 2^.nnn in].,i]^:t ::^'. ; and is ai:.:.^.--- -le only buildn.^ -m Interest m u. UjJike most of the churches in Holland, the tower is of ' ne, an I N more restrained in design thai, .uiy utuui. ihc luvvur is not unlike tho tower of Vfrf'^-^i^ Cathedral and the Church o! r- Mi a* ' -^ ft is late Gothic, in luc oiyie we "^^ -^^ 'i i: -; ird describe as Perpendicular, v "-i • r '■ -^ ' ' ' vertical lines. The uAi-.ur 01 tiii r u Ui lae church is not quite so r 1, rison thin, and the stone thi and hap-nrn j limestone. The finest r?rAf^o\ within is the beautiful and original !L nument to « .; Fngelbert the Second, of ^:assau. who rliod in i Hi. T :aso Vincidor, . r lian from Bologna, designed it, uLuul n vi ^ 1 ^ 1 1 ■-.iUU. -,*^. _ - m^-'< '■«# cTi r-r-,|'crr- v^^ ' — «lriC.r,T A MONUMENT AT BREDA 43 r It S i \V LiiC seventeen years later. Alabaster recumbent effigi* - < f the count and his wife Cimburgis i»:-r r 1 sarcophagus, and the count's armour and equipment arr^ displayed on a black marble slab, supported at a height of over four feet from the floor n xiie shoulders of four kneeling figures representmg those martial characters of classic hist 'ty : Regulus, Caesar, Hannibal and Philip of Alacelru. The work is not only in itself beai 1 h i, iut is of an additional interest because it liroctly inspired the like monument to bir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey. Vere in tiic liiiic of Queen Elizabeth was in command expedition into the Netherlands, and battle of Nieuport, in what is now Belgium. He died in 1609 ; and, as the monu- iiix:id to Count Engelbert here at Breda had nlrondv been in existence some ninety years, it was probably seen and admired either by Vere or his friend?, and thought to be a fitting design for his vn monument. Nor is it one whit inferior, whoever may have been the sculptor. The figures in this case, supporting the black marble * slab are four knights. A third similar monument exists, with the like inspiration ; although again differing in detail. This is that to Robert Earl of Salisbury, in Hat- fi'^11 church. He died in 1612, after building Hatfield House ; three years only after Sir Francis ^ ii . Ill ! If ere can be no doubt this monument ■m!!&. 44 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 1- fl \p >?•} |>"! p hand as that at Westminster. Ih lias case, the recumbent robed iBgure of the earl i^ nn tho marble slab, which is supported by i „. ! I 'senting Fortitude, Justice, li i- (it n* I aid T '!.i orance. JJuneath, in the iiue spinr I rh- ii uaissance is a repulsive, though muiv earlier story of Breda is one that finds par.il!^ l> in most of the towns in Holland. It ir^ the story of Spanish oppression and tin !- . ■pas^HML •■ • ': i f , I-. ' i years i years I March t^^jiiied ■ frUiUiCid L 4_-L ji-X ■%,>*. ! liberty. Tn 1566 the began the revolt against ^ ci the Dutch captured ! yet, the Spanish had it again. J iO, Prince Maurice recaptured stratagem suggesteti to hiiii 1 y .66 } ) four S. A ^ the a W li'.' \v « ! I in van Bergen, a bargeman o supply the Spanish gurnboii wtli i in his barge. The idea was to under a cover of peat, and so convey 'PUt. liiiie . t 46 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND them secretly into the fortress. Meanwhile, the I r "^ with a military force, was to wait on ewh'^ iit-ide the castle. The barge was duly ! i lull, n 1 placed in charge of Captain de lit; .-re. The plan nearly failed, because oi tiiu outer cold of the ji^iuii night, which brought ' a 1' ut of coughing under the peats, r ;: tLu bargemen created noises which concealed the coughs ; and the garrison were duly surprised and slain, the fortress-gates were opened, and the ii xious Prince and his men, waiting without, V ' re admitted. li was a kind of warfare carried on in com- partments, so to speak. The good townsfolk of Breda were apparently not intimately con- cerned ill this surprise. As we read it, it is an affair of mere handsful of men, who appear casually, kill a few soldiers by a childish stratagem, and carry on until an enemy force, after a long ii val, comes and turns them out. l.ptain de Heraugiere was made Governor of ^-^"-la, and the famous barge was installed in the castle, and li^ciu 1 1 remained for thirty-five years, when Jireda was besieged by the Spanish under Spinola. I was a full-dress affair, and the town was con- rornf^d i?; u vnry bitterly for ten months, when it - ! ered. -^ nola's first care was to burn that ironical barge. Twelve years later, the Dutch again ' - 'i'^'''-^^ ' 1 kept it. But in 1793 and finally in ibiij I jiu r,uic other excursions and alarums. i- THOSE FRONTIER ROADS 47 To-day, Breda has a small garrison, housed in II i:- t. IF th* n.n racks built by William the Third on the site of Uj- castle. Part of the moat and a water-gate aie M •. From near by, on the quays, the uest view ni-rh +^- ver, with the Waag, or Weigh-house, iv-jound is to be had. ran miles bring us out of this rather modern- quietly-prosperous Breda to the crossing of nj k, un the way to Rotterdam. The road is infinitely commonplace, but well-laid. In fact, it is vtr\ astonishingly good and broad; and if we Hke to o :| i fi south-west of Breda for a little while ii lead of at once proceeding north, we shall find that rt f ! continuing to be super-excellent. I invii \ ' u to examine it. It is the road to Aa twerp, twuiit} -eigLi miles distant, and it comes in about ten nf those miles to the Belgian frontier, at Wuest- wezel If you like to continue exploring into Bel- gi ua It ivill be found that on the Belgian side, too, It is just as good. Being, in fact, relaid most Laiciully since the war, in finely-worked granite setts, it is even better than on the Dutch side. As, the fur you go in Belgium, the worse the roads, and as the same remark applies to a great part of the way on the Dutch side, to Rotterdam, these re- markable stretches of highway, not greatly affected by ta a •, require a little explanation. That may be found, readily enough. They are, if not exactly military roads, placed in that condition for the purpose of the Dutch and the Belgians, who are 48 not ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ux^puc^c. towards one another, I II K i i ! .-:,-V ,--^ to fly at ^'rifh of I.--: O '-:;/^ u^/^ nu..cc, wiieu the nn-/ ■ m!::.'S. 1*'. the cyclist wli^ rides mI^'H:,.: > £.«'in t^Uz-^t \\ wpll-coii^siUcica C'v S I' 1 r ,?'= i :i ? -f red lu Muurdijk, the name alike * f a liJ: broad ari;: '>f "^h^ sea wLi^ ii h;:;-. to ; :.Luam-i I- \\^^:-:..:-:-rr. 'Hie chanrn-i . ,]^rV Pipp, one mile m J a half • r:, '■:.:. :.r seen a ..a ;; • i .m.w.; ^ lue. f ' :dge of .■h"- r ■■ a'l) ^ "ust a ferry-slip, ^w- rr ^| top rot Kc W uiunuo inn. The seven miles on to ,n. -n-'"!^ bri"k-pavprl mad, lUhniiii: oe- rees, with the Dortsche Ka a navigable iharrpl, just visiW* a. ilit; left. It l. a lonelv roai. with only the little "Half VVeg" i%:-iauj\ua raidway, where i ^uugLi a-^ quench v/i. I i aj long glass of grenadine nr^^ n >iraw t 'a'tjCIi ali a\ I' t .. i i J- i I ; i „1 XXL ve are in tia j^ lovmce of .^j 1 1 J, ,' ■..,• t V i .' A x.' '■■■ ~ I "r souatiar .e VI ' commonly called " Dort." It ,1 ! i 1 a vigable channels Oi tne Marweuta aia. ('Pi , ■ 1 . i a ^ < . p.; -i i i . •- Vii ' ^ DORDRECHT 49 while docks and canals everywhere intersect the town, a pon>aIar,ib]p -nn. n^ so pjQO inhabitants. Durdrealit ii iP a h aat-r , ; ;; p \\ pi lis }a;a.ist'-p are nf hr a sort of northern \"t/aaa: aiiaierit houses along the Up .00 >T* m though most a'ooil dia t i \j ■a , V s V i 1 c)^ ; « ' 4 ^ ^ :ie case 1 f> f rp!?": t- all (aloO' 1 . * L I I, irvurij inr \f h trade on whu-h n a: \v rtHjiM m thiPM" • iipp> ,a ca' pp : p . . r va-pe!p thafi, tise tovai can (dlar. liinterdain a iaar ot iM,aio ISiiU iijTiL his •Jr I ui a..aa as 1018, 00 .- hUililu: I iordreciit tha laai ituppened. indeed, -• • ; latter quite apart from the re ]h \ : . .-■ 00= big sin]):-. Up tu tliOa t HI a a. \ao'a valiad'ie privilege : that ( w uvini ^'iVI I L i-4 iiiaijfier or - .. a ~ o.,,. . : r - noigidiourHiO r^a -rs. K* ' : tl _ ^. > i 04 \ i .>i,iO '.i. a v\ 1 ^ \ , iici t ii .a i. - ^ „^-» V, .-a. A - Bo Do. ' plaoe, IS . ■ Wit fi thr or— • * the hii^lo. r-.- 11 '•') ''O' * 'T:^ *"' '■ p p ■= cnlaund sno: O'tiice J J J ■• ' 0.. cii ii I .' tX =4. . \ ' \ -■; 'a ,: ■'Ji ■•■■ .--, busy enough ^ P. P i . 0, -1 / . a a cord vVtP i la J i (.,,p ,_0"t ^ . and ali ' nio > p o\ i- * 'X05 (ji " I ;.0i0o" CI. : ' ora>p iro^ ed on the 1 :' b a r a as on 50 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND M^--; do but accentuate the grey hack- le i- a - urj ui great historic interest, in national : : iigiou ifairs, and it takes cognisance of other [ »ple's business as well, as we may see in the Zu : A': i! M cum. Perhaps Dort had better h:.,vc -ci: LLu-t; ixiatteis alone. But an English- r m may find ^^ome amusement in the collections ' r . H: :rse it was part of B * r propaganda; kirH rJ^ . ;; .jy^pYpnTinyy^ of tl -■ Bnnr fP'- t:^ M seum w ; opened only in 1902, p K: ^»r uun upL oligarchy was finally i r r anyone should seek to | i j - i„^er's greasy old clothes would seem to 11 • iite that he requires the attention of a -: ciaiist ; but here they are, with busts of himself or r.iLip-r^ a j"Car a^ 1 • 1, i f\ 'iL f; 1 resideni ^.cyn * articles made by Boer prisoners H u 1 numerous offensive la: perioa directed against Great doubtless, by Dr. Leyds ai - "P f ^ *i id, V rku „: ; ! Hitch sensibilities. As we have ^crFi tL* H : at;r passionately desires freedom; ar d : : , f .- count d in to take the part of *h little one," no matter how perverse that one. 11 13 too cautious to take that part actively, but I dosophicallv only. And so we were in very bad odour m ilunniri during that South African trouble. dd" da responsible papers and the reptile press vvt r?j insulting. The reptilia made much money o'v. • f it. ^no. We can perhaps excuse most of all LEANING HOUSES 51 this, because, after all, the Boers are Dutch — those among them who are not by descent French Huguenots — and thus sympathy was natural. How K iii> Tfie relationship was recognised you may 1 1 r r \ hy this among those propaganda publica- ti( la , I will leave you to puzzle out the whole meaning of its title ! " Op : Van Transvaal, Week- blad verschignende tijdens den onafhandelijk- snnrlog der oud-Hollandsche Republieken in Zuid *i ' * ' a . " i It is rather much, is it not ? In most towns of Holland the tall gabled houses lean very much out of the perpendicular ; in Dor- drecht perhaps more than elsewhere. That is because, like the similar old leaning houses of Amster- daiii they are built on timber piles. The story thai u y were built to lean forward, so that foot- iHi^^^ ngeis should be able to escape the water spout- ing Irrm their roofs in rain-storms will not bear t X loiination. We are often confronted with groups < 1 houses that lean all ways, often towards one a a I r as if instinctively for mutual support ; ^v!ii( ji i< ill fact the result, even though it be an accidental one. l^oi tiic rest, Dordrecht does not change. We may vny well note that, not only in the few modern buiL ^ to be seen, but in a picture of the town pair tar] by Albert Cuyp, a native, born 1605, died i*-il rhe work is now in the Ryks Museum at Amsterdam. It represents Dordrecht as seen across Ulk 52 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 'V( ro f) 51 • ^J tite Old Maas, from Zwijndrecht. It is to-day r.refi>-:v a.:- it is in the paintinir. ; town past the great church that i I . He of Cu)^'8 picture; the church L . \ ronw " ; that is to say, the ' i I cannot pretend that I like that ^ i pile nf brick and stone crannied with age cli£E tunnelled by martins, and squalidly Of that I can admire the bulky brick irs its 2*^^" feet of height in so loutish .1^, and looks, for all its height, '^mbitious bu'-d^^s wpt^- c ? 1 before con | h hi mhappy-looking if l. t clock }h of the four sides, perched on the ir^'^^nst the sky-line, as though the buil jcih ' :::indedly left it there, were tidj^L. i utly lost. But there it has be u e I'-d vears or so, precisely the same, as we i evidence of Cuyp. -^^ church, by the old houses of the Blaauw come to the steam-ferry. It is the chief J and exit from the town, and yet it all ] lid rustic as the leaving or entering :*?, r iCJ i , ijndrecht is an out-at-elbows village, leading on ■ :! rlam by eleven miles of as altogether aborniiiat md accursed road as will be found in li iJ cii i It is, it is true, a brick-paved the mo^t part, but it has foundered into holet . :.„ ii If ROTTERDAM 53 places and in others has reared into humps ; and sand completes for the cyclist the disabilities of holes in I ridges. The stranger who cycles this way is unfortunate, but if he does it again, he is a fool ; ti.i: more especially as there is absolutely no interest on tl o -y ; the only feature being the endless flat b i devoted to the growing of strawberries, ^Vibe men and knowledgeable persons go between Dort and Rotterdam by steamer ; and that being so, there is no local incentive to make this execrable road good. Besides, Rotterdam despises Dort, aiiy- wav ; and Dort, with its ancient grudge, ^ aiits not ' f o r . i 1 k A- .1 1 • f r f do with its big neighbour. It is a sheer mistake for the tourist into Holland to come into Rotterdam. If he enters the country by the Harwich and Hook of Holland service, he must of course be taken into this great commercial town and port, with its heavy traffic and cosmo- politan trade ; its great business houses, railway- 1 n ! i s, crowded streets, and all those other things i 1 r o ' to a place of 425,000 inhabitants, almost to oirgoc.i ui the country. He can see that sort of ly day he likes, in London or twenty or her great cities in England. In touring, . - >t the kind of place he does not want to get 00 ' with. But, entering Holland by the Hook, in there and are taken past unlovely liiedam into Rotterdam, I ;o ii : readily forget that dismay and sinking of the heart with which, after emerging from the f 54 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND sands and rugged hummocks of that road from Dort I came, as a lone cyclist into Delfshaven, which is a suburb of Rotterdam, on the hither side of the Maas, which is an alias for the iUiine. Hopeful, would-be expanding suburbs of great cities are just the same, all the world over. Broad roads with tramways, carcases of houses unfinished as yet because the builders of them have so liberally anticipated the future, and the future being coy at these advances, has refused to respond to expecta- tions. Playful eddying winds have a game at aerial maelstroms with scraps of newspaper (there always are, and always will be winds and loose scraps of printed matter in such places) ; and de- humanised blocks of model dwellings. That is Delfshaven. Une would rather the heart of the crowded city itself than all this. So across the great Maas Bridge, into the noisy crowding, striving town, and by what-named quays I know not ; only I know the fearful cobble-stones and rugged setts of them. Anyone who wants Rotterdam can have it, for me. Tom Hood wrote well of Rotterdam, nearly a century ago. I gather, by some of the lines in his verses, that it has altered rather for the worse since then. But the line, '' A sort of vulgar Venice," is one absolutely right : — ' I TOU JOURS WILHELMINAI 55 " Before me lie dark waters In broad canals and deep, Whereon the silver moonbeams Sleep, restless in their sleep ; A sort of vulgar Venice Reminds me where I am ; Yes, yes, you are in England, And Fm in Rotterdam. " Tall houses with quaint gables, Where frequent windows shine, And quays that lead to bridges, And trees in formal line. And masts of spicy vessels From western Surinam, All tell me you're in England, But I'm in Rotterdam." I forget how many " Wilhelmina " quays and buildings and other objects I passed on my way through Rotterdam ; but they were a good many. It is an entirely loyal feeling that confers the nam \ \ but, like our own '' Victoria " railway stations, streets, embankments, public halls, and so iuith, it is a loyalty that rather over-reaches itself and becomes a stale familiarity. 56 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND VII Delft i reached i nine miles from Rotterdam, F i ; F ■ ' r i ^ 1 K * i K \. i, i ? i »■* .- s ^ '. n ; I" ! '! 5 i IV";'! r»^'» ~- • ■ T'li 'i T') r)f' 1- > ' A r y,z . i . i i, ,L V s. 1 i 1/ »^. i ;..i t,t > ' .^ , liiiii thouirht- 'jj u!'! fnui Bur to a If' Mi ti) tlie I)u,ti-!i liuti*.'!: v. f ^ i t ^ » J- ^ f ' \ r^ to-da"V ha:. Ill i , u, t. 1 1 t ■ ; 1 ? ail I i; I >'* . : i I'-/ t-' i 1 I ^i^'fi- w' ! f'UU'-J H-i;{U'iirQ N i i i 1 1 i. '/ J H ' I /I S •( i 'i^ ■( -a ['! ( ; T ) ' i !in S ?'' \ ' t ' r ; I i ■ word, *' Orange," which I t' ^ h: I a M fa f I ■'^' 1 •-; t f : » ■ ■'"! '■'• 1 1 ii.ce. \vt A IL- : ' J sSiih. IL^ 11 jUi '« ^ 1 iT \'- il',^ it ill ; i i* I \.,! \% ;i i ' ' i l t ■■- i la ri; A it IS a -fi'artrnenr f,f Winduse, not ^a,r fjaani Av i 1 = J, ^- / i n I ll^ Ofil ■laaoii. name { . i I t t ! li >n a: lioman remains. i li'^'oaFa a:. a aan^-J .Ja''.n/^^7*n. 1 -ePHiS a som-what difficult (h-^rri^t Unrii.ii] raacc-iiciiiie , ha" It IS welLa^nnr- - ' ' -^» '■ " =* - ■ ; ? ' ■ T f . , . f -,!!?, *" (C matter, r ime tiie gold"'Ti ~5+? TH"?^ :i!i ^ a a. i: nge. J5 \ i , - ^. t'la^al' I ■• word i ■--■'•■ '- ■ -J PRINCES OF ORANGE 57 from the first oranges imported into Holland having a (1 1.1 J H f'VW a < -^ [] a fiC 1 1^.^ ,1 1 a. I ' i '-. 4. '.IT. Mpssina, in the South of Italy, title of Prince of Orange came into the i- a curious history, only rriefly to Liiese pages, which are not intended to historical wi ]{ The family of Nassau at a t V origin iaiman, and they became owners of a l^'refK li district only by cousinship to the last of the 1 raiich priiu aa _: Orange, Eene, who was slain at the -1-1* r.f Rf Bizier, in IT^M He bequeathed hi> lands I » \\ aliam of Nassau, who was a German bv bis fall :erh> ai i iiiother's side. This William of Nassau-Orange, a Hessian through la^ a 'a r, -uic tided !u his father's estates in the Belgian Netherkmds, and married the Countess Juliana id SiiadH rg, who, as already noted in these pages, wa^ the mother of * William the Silent," maker of Dutcli independence, whose tomb we see here in Udfta lie reigning Royal House of the Netherlands clearly, the historical sense to the full, and ^ 1 1 ; for the present Princess Juliana is named fr !n the mother of the liberator; and the title of '• r rnii e ui Orange'' has always been maintained, although when WilUam, Prince of Orange and Sta itb; 11 of the Netherlands, and King of England duMi rhiidiess in 1702 the French King, Louis the hdetirteenth, extinguished the Principality of Orange an 1 escheated the estates. Thus the self-styled i rmces of Orange," generally the title used by iia.\a:^ ehruj 58 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 'V Idest f=-ns of the Kings of H 4Iand, have since 17 c' bon. only a shadowy, though historically ^''•^r U-.-1. K::.i ' K:.J.H.i, WHiiam the TL.: i, was uv^' i'-^^v:ii.^l-')n o^ \V:!:;a:;i Ui" silent, n.n^ was, s.. to ^!^^.iv, nl^ ^ \V, ,. -,:. r;,e Third in HoILl l The great Liouiator's direct Liuc cuded with him. The p' Alberr ![■ my, h^ ' Q ^n of Holland is descended from Ai..- la ighter of his son, Fred-nck iii- i"\i:'h wife. iiit Mlent," Prince of Change, was born in ] 3 dj R !: Hi '';itholic. Vp to that time, and until some y i- i. r, the Netherland I ad never been independent. They weic iJachies and Princi- palities and ^^ ' :^ ^ tracts of country under the r : i':ince-Bishops. These personages, all-power- ful locally, were yet themselves subservient to great overlords, such as Charlemagne and later Emperors of ucrmanv. Whole countries, and groups of coun- tries peopled f y entirely different races, passed in those times by the marriages of Emperors from family to familv. without the consent of their peoples. i necessity for any such consent was not then thought of. L. this manner mc Netherlands came in 1 U": t » ^laximilian, En | ror of Germany. Ui., grandson, Charic-^ inu Fifth, Emperor of Germany - i Iving i "^; i: ^ ^'ight of his mother, Johanna of Castile, i; i it : lu divour of L.- ^on, the infamous Philip the Second, in mi. aft^r 'laving lost his K^.^r-:.^i:L dominions, Philip was solely a Spanish- PHILIP OF SPAIN 59 speaking monarch, but by blood rather more of a Haiisbiiry w tk that Hapsburg peculiarity of the pre jt ( tii];z I V ' : : hich we see m so many por- trait- (f iLat laii.i.j , ai a iS represented in the present Kiiiy A!fua-o nf Spain. lie IS thu Philip of Spain who married Mary, Queen ul laigland, in 1554, and who in 1555 designed to cuaqiica' Armada.'' began tiie Ketherland his iatiaT : resolved t'.. religajus ii. sought to Ije^iyniny aiid api)i.a I Ik' Ulhiiiiaw .a . . 7 i 1 C r\ ■ , r : I n ''^ England with his futile " Invincible it i^ not historical! V correct that Philip persecution of the Protestants m rlie Thai had long been proceeding under vho, however, had not found it successful. a I been to persecute them with the r wn Catholic countrymen. Philip, I I a aorough, alike in political and Kitters, re-established the Inquisition and Ful t]a X' iherlands by Spanish officials. aaa !f to reside pain, he left Holland, intf'd MaFiar-a, ! a chess of Parma, an i daughter of his father's, Regent. On tare the States-General, or Provincial requested him to withdraw his Spanish 1 liii position of William of Orange, then but twenty -IX vears of age, was a singular one. A ratlicaic and a protege of Charles the Fifth, Philip iuid appointed him Stadtholder of the provinces of iiiesaxad, I tie at. Zeeland and Holland. It was :i a nicrease of the bishoprics soon ih the object of more completely L ii.a,.'ii +■ i 6o ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND hunting down heretics, that began the cleavage 01 ^pam . I "^ r iC :^aV, liiC 1 -1! ?■ N T (111 ; i i *. between William oi u range and t and it was rather the question expenses thus thrust upon any other consideration that cnn^f i t. t I p ancient charters of the land forbade thesi n r : ry measures ; and Wilham's mind at that nn . \vi ;: " . 1 \ j u Flushing in I v. *, the last time tiiui cvui Prince of Orange, refused tr explanation that these were t: objections. He snatched at hi=^ i passionately, " No los Estados ; rn: '' Not the State's ; you, you ! " lie believe that the Prince was intrigui n: ' - rv* ; js own personal ambitions. Meanwhile, the cruelties of the Inquisition con- tinued ; and persecution was secretly arranged be- tween Philip of Spain and iiunj \ m- >tM ij.i Km:^ of France, to culminate in a grand and < massacre of Protestants of cvciv rank, im n* rtii of persons, in France and the ^-*: rl' i . ] i. thorough-going project, which was at ou r t,. .j^tii heresy and political opposition, wn?; incnn^ion,; divulged by the French King to tht f : mce ( n uaia at a hunting party. Murder on Lac -r ' like financial roguery, if sufficiently large, in been considered less criminal lit'! I -' i > :iitd \ I ' k ' r i ' larceny and individual assassination ; and of France could at for a a. a^ a iia 'v u oapljuSCu WILLIAM THE SILENT 6i i. ^■-' nauie in icitait iiics and thrre , J 1 J who was (I pletah' iinii n riac'c I a that this coup would have horrified so almost royal a per-c nac^e as the Catholic Prince of Orange ; who wa^, howt Vf 1 J stounded at the enormity of it. ikit althouiih horror-stricken, he said no word and ]v emotion. Thus he has earned the history of ''William the Silent." It iia above all the Williams in history — uv a great number of them ; but at the presents a mental picture of a man t a reserved and taciturn nature ; com- ke this then gay and lavish and amiable i U- -^turn to the Netherlands he privately an inbers of the States-General of what M aaers dragged on. The plotters .stenmg to their great achievement. 'lA' silent one had established a secret . fad access to all the King of Spain's confidential doings. That was an age of eaves-u rappers and secret ntries ; the ag - d" I llenaissance. ; ,1 tiic -eivice of Queun Elizabeth, a his lift ai England, in directing ,| aes ana a employing conspirators. in loiMi the representations of the States-General to the Duchess of Parma, declaring that the religious persecution:^ sjaaild cease. \v,e]s ; who regarded it as impossible she should he aivai'i of those ' waL.rdjeggars." The Hisultini!- nhn.^^ aa^^ ad-aci li- 1 challenge, and the wariiefl was n; were * Meaaa seiaa; t- -^ most f ' a V a extraordinarv ^* w^ v.- Lx s^ ^ ..' , being of a iduu accuc^i. n.-a t were, although few in numbc !: r than ti.' i '':.,.■■ : ; A;,,.. ,--. ivu tiiuUiaiid aii ] ^--|.^r;ration hri'i made t};^ni fnrTT'idablo. cur-'i :i iitjt.:t uf more thai. tw.-f;t\- ^ri. T- •■e Water 1 ;o r^ 1 i.t/V XI 1 tili-'J. u-p^Jirdluii ff the moil \f , , ... \ " f .• V V I ■ ! H ► ; I. J J P lO'.uh . L' i often styled ■ F:nll." Alth th u r I hundred in number, Ut \ furnnt'M --Mr..,rA in ^^^ raine of tti»' V who. tl r ^ U: an Catholic it T IS was the historic position of William the > t consolidated. Xo need henccicr \wud ft r ^il^Tirp : he was become the de^^ ^ ] r;dr.-^ Mll^}^. ir_ followe'; hrielle. Its i-^ f -, ^i.. -uruu'-- ^^v tie news. rxr-*.'n»'.i the small >i ^snish gr;T]i-«:i, . l..-u! at t mu! = ,.- - there appeared .. d^jai.i:^] •' * ■-*^- r >■ » f i c i.i. 2?£W^^i^DS F02^ MURDER 63 reinforcements, and, had it not been for one of those hun ? - interludes which history, like an accom- plishci I I J aight, introduces amid tragedy, the rebellion might well have ended there. While the I I iS^t'icken folk of Flushing would ha\i In en lost, a drunken fellow in sheer tipsy bra\aili fired a cannon ; and the Spanish ship-, the panic now theirs, departed hu^ri^.^^Y. There was at that moment in the town an Italian engineer named Pacciotti, called by the kT *' Pacheco ", in the employ of the Duke lie had just completed the fortificatioi s « f \ for the King of Spain, and was awaiting instructions. His doom instantly was sealed, hanged ■» Ti /-\ .Jr^ ■11 va. n 1 'J him those 1 * ' • 1 forthwith, in spite of his entreaties to spare his life, for in the fierce tem|H ! times n i 1 r ; T i ( ' (''■ .a;., ill?. ^^3r i I'P'^yS WITH ASSASSINS 65 ?! ;,:i: I fsr In accordance with the spirit of the age, the assassin j' id a fearful death, ll- lad attempted an a but was seized, and first repeatedly tortured, d it last sentenced to have his Jfiesh torn away I pincers, and finally his heart torn out :^ m his face. He sustained all these sh pams with a smiling fortitude that convmced beheld them that he must be supported ]: lii by the Devil ; and finally, as we are r ; a r la redibly told, a contemptuous smile moved iiio iipb wliun his heart having duly been torn out, it was dashed in his face. In the Nieuwe Kerk is the Prince's monument. There he lies, in white marble eJBSgy. Tie States- General fittingly enshrined him, with his dog at his feet, a marble canopy over him, and emblematic figures of Justice, Coui'age, Eeligion and Liberty. A latue of him in bronze, habited ai ai mour. stands at the head of the recumbent effigy : w iala at the feet is a bronze statue of Fame, with wa i . aj winf^s. Because ho the greatest of hn da rests here, h: lie little town of Delft, here too, i i er than at The Ifairne, lie all his successors to this day. So much of history we ma permit ourselves in Delft, where William the Silent twelve vears later was assassinated, aiai where we may stana ^aftire his magnificent t Oude Kerk. But nay !'•*' iidiuw' a; tiieae pages the story of battlas l)y sea ^- d i a L a \ictories and defeats and of tiie final Ui IJ h independence. #1 -nf 66 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND The Glide Kerk is the resnnj plaro nf arv^nicr r^r-at mafi : (>hi: wJk'i tjave ii;- iMi^ii^li i'''''\[^i'^-' ^^ ^^''-i 'ii';- ^^i trou!a,e arai -'lan; hun;ili=i,t imj-^ ^ Ik^t^mp. tf.^a A':ia:r;d Hi th^^ 1,. ,ar 'A \-U- t-r\a a'r! i- a( rir-ti aatM to Lii.*- NVi;M.ai. [;•' Wa- klJ,^'-d •in* \\ h ItuV:,; it' "1 '^^^^ Wa^ ll-cli ill i..:S 3^^im' i : ::J-= i I tiiJilv ■■•' I Wo i:.a\"i al ■' t w ' , 1 s, and IS the liciu ui \\iiuiii that, ufier the Battle of rhn "Orres, in i - ue hoisted a bruuiii to the mast- la ii of his flagship, ' 1 .ly that he [ I ut pt the seas, a I \ 1 continue to sw fa them, of In- *ss- nents. Ill- I't-* btxlua ii purtr..vt-i *as h;- m.ui.ut— a-' . s^iilf'd, ships, \va\"*"- ar:'i -a'S'i- t^' s.i '■ 'a^ - -■■ f::' :,e ; surruiiiaiad ta- iaii;tar\- tr-aha-, fj^a-'-, n-a, lies ? . ^ K ?"■ la N - E N : ^ F ik^a Hail:, h" w? a!iii*M^^ «s ,faa, -»■;• t . a loving iJutcii kaurt> h}- ra[s:a.is!.g tiia >p.:fia~a. t re a sure -ship uat 1 ', n\a-iva raii.a : jiins V ' i )f Sliver. VERMEER OF DELFT ^ iJdft, aa^art from these features, does not dispiai- iiuiiai to interest, in a courarv wta-rr '..ai' ara many uther places of aboiindiia!T as ture-qaais.'S,^, li' nia !t seems indeed, m ^^ • : : .> -t- a.d a:rit>;t. Tka Ijaai^aa gather tall ana a^. .an-,,: tfa* .^tkf cuiati:^. jjito whoso stagnant ^aretaj aauers tlie .jiat-' trees drai) undeserved bouquet -^ af biu^^sor:a ; ..a : g^^*y giaisti seem to peer over tiia slioiiider evaii m the iaaM-r streets. Pcaiiaps — nay, aartaiaJv iJaift ^^'-^^^ lauaii hj Lii ill iuljb, and Diiicii again iii it)3-L 1 V tla explosion of a powder-magazme. Ala t Dutch towns in the seventeenth cei tarv prauatau, aaaiiers, in the extraordinary deveiopmeoi ad .ill m this country at that time ; and Delft is not witia o as honoured artist, Vermeer, ^o:<2 ifJTo He is exactly contemporaneous with Pe . d aaa in general his subjects and methoa^ .,:. : .. a ra ^ame : Dutch interiors painted in -s :. : . . 5 n ua a r colours. But he aaata.. '^^'-^'-' ii- picture of Delfi io the M ^ Tli^ TTaane U very modern in sei ^ a t meias aiul i- an effect of broodii^ : . o "^-^■^^^nuiiDj:^ Wo can all discuss -• to-dav : the more usjaiaaiaaaio- when we can nei - oaaw nor rao^t a.-a" a' s- -i ; - I i , < J -. • i! • sato'" l!.aa t^ ui aiti-' aa\a diseoverea ' *'''-'^*^*'^' ^ ^^^^t painters knew aad appreeiated .him i aa baaa hose who handle the pen a^ a . -w:t-, .:\i -iii.t druati wata .iwaie of his existence. 68 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND of the buildings in that view are gone, and there is a bridge now where there is not one in the picture, it is still recognisable as Delft, with its yet-existing water-port, towered and spired, like that at Sneek. To-day Delft has a porcelain factory ; but it is a revival. The old Delft porcelain industry expired in the eighteenth century, together with the making, here and elsewhere, of the famous Dutch tiles. IX Few can travel in Holland without noticing, and acquiring an affection for, the characteristic blue and white wall-tiles of the country. There has of late years sprung up a passion for collecting these quaint decorative and pictorial tiles which, any time these last 300 years, have been, we may say, almost the commonplace of Dutch domestic interiors. How far the latest developments of this phase of collecting are due to the activities of dealers in curios, it would not be easy to say ; but a very real appreciation of the Dutch wall- tile has been growing for several years ; and it is now not easy to acquire good characteristic speci- mens, at a reasonable price, even in Holland itself, where, naturally, these curious productions abound. h was in the early years of the seventeenth cen- tury that the Dutch wall-tile came into conamon DUTCH TILES I 69 use in Holland. The rise of this peculiar form of interior domestic decoration is of somewhat obscure origin, but the style of the early tiles, decorative rather than pictorial, and polychromatic, instead of as in later developments (almost wholly) blue designs painted on a white glaze, suggests that this idea of furnishing a wall was derived from Spanish sources. And, if we like to take the derivation a step further back, it will be found that the Spanish fashion was an inheritance from Moorish art, as exemplified in the decoration of the Alhambra. ^^ ii en we consider the sufferings of the Dutch at the hands of the Spaniards in the thirty years or so before the opening of the seventeenth century, 70 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND CRAFTSMEN 71 hi%\ >,:' [1 ■■"■'' '.-■«. i i '. i But :^0 1 ^ "v roil) I ^ J. ^- '■1 T- ^1 I f tlTSt 5P nes 1 .ft"] >iri 1 ■i ,r r_ span i.-^! L-M. ■, ] craft -ir :ar;.- >. conv r'li Uijr * 4 fare- 5 tiid t i i'- * >ta . i (J I i i \'l' iliC lis'-., ii ^' 1 :. t.* .: j i I ; t.' i A'.'. L ' anything of Spanish origin should V ouii of favour in the Nethei tiidb. : the idea came from the gorgeous m the Alhambra at Seville. Tiiis lies, of rich blues and yellows, with • sparingly used, is clearly of If i! cebtry ; even if of in fori or I ii^ 1 signs on them are generally i rlowers and fruits. They are the li st expensive to collect. i size of the Dutch tile is a square With a thickness of a quarter of an I types, and half an inch for the . the style of decoration, this aess determines the comparative V n rilo in Holland displaced the once : ration, Spanish leather, so, with uu' eighteenth century, the newer : r J ousted the tile, and tu :^ * I , v\ .xx.e, not yet far enough remo^ • i la^i iiities, they l* ime, as every i : 'ling becomes, neglected and JiiuD at all. The works at !)• 'ft and elsewhere weiee. :::-l^t have made ilr-m in va.->t quantities, s^eaae n-ie. plentiful they are yet, eea,s(Ml to br : aiii i a fit the records of this traci u» r* foraott^ai. A a\.^od uuai has been wrroai riboat Datca tiles ft the most interesting of all the blue and white tiles ; and entertaining too ; because to them the crafts- men brought all their quaint matter-of-fact outlook, combined with that complete disregard of the his- torical veracities which was shared by even the greatest ardsts of that age. Alike the little tile- painters and the big brothers of the brush were 1 I 74 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND "^> i. r ; ^' qtdte ( t to display Biblical scenes in much th^ -ri^ne tcf 11=^ as they would have portrayed those of their o age. [ f,u ^iiij/r If! subjects which were favourite themes amorii .e oL' "Hatch tile-painters are per- Lat- ti-. most 'resting and amusing of all ; amus- incr b-" I i-f^ ^ f this extraordinary naivete which was jir 'e artistic equipment of those times: an ut! r ii-rvjiii ui the archaeological requirements )f u- Ki li painting or illustration. In common _i the great masters, the prac- iin!- art of tile-painting represented liiLii II - ;. \ ry much in the same terms as they wo ii i have di^nkyed contemporary life. Here, for example, w^ i the prophet Jonah, seated under r- j^o;:: Uie, w.uung to see what will happen t i Xi'f v:h, and hoping for the worst. We know it io Ju!i i: J 1 i:. uf iLie gourd-tree ; and if we don't ^. -'i-r^ iL it -pecies we are assured of the identi- ri J ; V r * I - ' uainter has, very wisely, placed th ifiscrii lona, 4. 5 " beneath. It was well 1 1: 1 - I ihe city in the background is Dutch, idti-r trian oriental, in character. The verse reads : ^ i, J : ih V( lU M v of the city and sat on the east ii i there made him a booth, and Sr.l'"' Clii in l^i.. AlUi the shadow, till he might see what ' city." The gourd-tree is tiie ntxi verse. It will be observed has forgotten the booth. niaintly-pictured tiles have a S ' ^, SCRIPTURAL SUBJECTS 75 \\ * .- iiktiiM^ charm, it would be goin^ too far to say that tlie iiieii wijo painted them wrn: artists, Thpv were loiinu'viiii:'!! tilOUSand. It l:^ : tain childlike qualitv of dnxwinu thai w ->- I- I— ii Uii.il it . s- ! r These Biblical subjects, judging by tl: e f: ^ i *'a "" «rn-r I Lac !:.»•' at 5 » »; :- > iU« s>'t ! ■<: have beeB, ' tlie "^•^ T , , , I i ,i -^''f ! >f -^j » » f f";. I . ' ave oeen t-ir ai i'l I ''i Li i y^ Other pop liar subjects were shipping scenes and pastoral motives, botli well within t lie range of every Hollander's evpcrieLces. Side by side vvitii tlie I 76 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE HAGUE n usual blue and white tile was a type with a band or frani ' vork of an ochreous hue, an addition to the 1)1 le. Tiii- was generally sprayed or splattered on to th^ : i; vvith a brush. A = long period of indifference, these wall- ii\^:^ are ii ing eagerly sought after in Holland itself, not only by individuals, but by the old town- si ■ - ; and in such a way they must soon become difficult for an individual to acquire. The present w' r saw recently in the town hall of Monnicken- u 1 alone four ti.jusand specimens, diligently ^ ^ to^^ether, bv deojrees ; and private collectors b :;. I; reasiii_^h numerous, ureal ii ah -rs of these tiles have been destroyed ^; persed in the pulling down of old houses, niv- in Holland, but also in London. The old [1 : rf'^ house. No. 21, Austin Friars, Citv of London, built about 1670, and de- ^i^'l i fM^bruary, 1665, will be remembered by ri. -r h was built by one of the Olmius family. SevuTai ui .13 rooms were lined with such tiles. r. liul T> Five miles bring us from Delft into The Hague ; the firbt ])art along a brick-paved road shaded by an avenue and running beside a broad canal. The Ha-u: i: c.i iH ! u.iough Ryswyk, famous in his a n the " Peace of Ryswyk," between England, fljiland, Germany, France, and Spain, signed in It 7. A palace then stood here, and in it that settlement of warfare was effected. But the palace was long since demolished, and Ryswyk is now the ! aNt liiteresting suburb of Tliu liague, at the end of a long, long tramway-infested broad street, with industrial developments and a kind of suburban smugness infinitely uninspiring. It is an uncomplimentary introduction to a great and fine town. For The Hague is a very consider- able place, with some 260,000 inhabitants, and in parts stately. Something very cosmopolitan and urbane, polished and suave, about The Hague ; and very rightly so, for it is the Court and Society centre ; the seat of government ; and by consequence with palaces, courts of justice, barracks, parks, picture-galleries and some very fine hotels, liai until 1806 The Hague had no status. "^la ^a a - General of the Republic met there ; delegates from provincial councils and towns, but it ^as denied any individual representation ; not altogether unlike the position of Washington to-day, in the T^rHed- States of America, where Congress sits, while V\ asL- ington itself is disfranchised. It was Louis Napoleon, King of Holland, who gave The Hague its status. It had until then been styled '' the largest village in Europe." No one would now, whatever the political and social ^ n of ! ai I fairue, describe its appearance either as that "Wi il 78 OK THF ROAD IN HOLLAND THE MAVRITSHUIS ?y of a Village, or ar^ ii'pieally Dutch. It ha0» for example, IjO caiuiU, so usual ,h feature in Dutch towns tiiat we miiitit (ic>crifte tlii-iii, m the esHcntial stiL£riiat;t of ihv ll^jiianaer ciniiuiunilw ^i'liere is in the t'ovfi but one iheut «;f water, tht: \'vvefe and toat e> the ^ohi renifiUiii ui the uiif.:e eneircliiii^ iiioat : are! it i-^ ^opt iiiied aie'i irerih ^riiv bo vniiipih^j water tieoii Sehe Vein litre re J he Ilu^ue is Liav and wothuut care ^: the I'mis. SO to speak, of ii'dhiioi, N^'de mdeedj the CHpital ef the eeaintry ; that e^ Am^tenhiiio and thi^iki is the chief lioyai Fcdace, But yiui irnaonie, such is Ihe lia^ue, iu evrrv WHihdieo^ed, difctiiiguisiied^ louklL^ pel- 0: Hi U,>: nA^liUiiiii^lwdAookmh: hotels a diOrjruai. ^!u^ is tiw country uut-eie tiw tt— an\utuuu lir.*.^ the sceut/iv uf iluihiod it 1^ for suiae twi^ inib:^ " the Ih.-^ehh' the wood- iaud ; aiid the ii the rie,..eo. Ku^hehdike sceiierv you tiiia m this couidry,, I'ui^uo-h wotli a diflereiice. Take of ten parts, he u- say. triree of Wdndsor Forest, three of eorne tvpca! ureet Er^uli^it countrv park, two (d Ii\'iie Park and Keri-in^ttui hnirderis, and rinddy two et thf- liius iic- Ijoi-ie-nce and veu have i iO' \\ ijuciuind of tre- Bu-eie H^-re an'* auejem uaks auii b^aadies and otiier f'-rtut-Urees,, in their UcUuirai growth and setting, untouehcei !*y the iJutehiuan^s ordering and pruiiiiig liarai,, ud^e h adiiost ever\-wdiere else has ordained tiiut trisj^ eheil bt; eruwui ju forcial avenues and m a bLa|)e that egUimenui) iitell to him. ^U qO:t„t eOOeO^iVe. J. ^i_^j.. rather than to the natural impulses of any species ui tree. It is the ''woodland wild/ lue surviving frnizm^^t of the chase in which of old, ever so long ago, liose Counts of Holland hunted, after whom 'S. Gravenhage was named. Do you romantically think, wandering in that boscage, you hear their liu ouiig-horns faintly blowing, down the centuries ? You may so imagine ; but it is to-day only the horns of the motor-cars along the Leyden road. lie Hague is a town of streets inciedib!\ < r/ued-r^ The Spuistraat at mid-day is no place meditation. The shops are fine and So too, are those hotels, already mentioned, cannot have a Royal Court and cheapness, side b'V *^]V]p The IStates-General of the Netherlands meet at The ITiguu in the venerable buildings, much re- stored, of the Binnenhof ; actually in the Hall of the ivnights, and the Chamber of the Estates of Holland, and the former Ball Room of the ancient Palace of the Counts of Holland. All these are to be seen by those who will. Adjoining is the Mauritshuis, built originally in 1634 as a residence for Lount John Maurice of Nassau, Governor of the Dutch West Indies territories in Brazil, and rebuilt in 1718. It has now for a centurv been the Royal picture gallery, open daily to tie r blic. Near by is the Gevangenpoort, opening into the iii 1 olof. This old gatehouse was, as it^ name implies, a prison. There the Grand Pensionary, the 8o ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 1 1 (I* • li "liister < f State, John Van Barneveldt, then -^ v-r, \ ^^vo voars of age, was imprisoned bciuic I,- w i,-. \.' : I ' "^ "he Binnenhof "-K.irr iu U'l'J, on a fal^f^ charge of conspiring against the Stadt- ^j 'ice, Prince of Orange, son of Willbni at. The charges, partly of withstanding his authority, which he had illegally augmeii ♦ J with a view to becoming independent of the i i uiar vote, ana partly a religious dispute, co\ti liiu t ^j.L ~"^'""' '"-'^ *"*?5«4&P'"^ - -. . . , *■ **^ --^^^' THE MAUEITSHUI3. memory of this son of the liberator with an indelible stain of infamy. Six years later, having brougiit; li. iland to the brink of ruin, Maurice died. The Gevangenpoort fifty- liiiee years later wit- nessed an even more cruel ' ^edy, when, in 1672, Loiixciius and John de Witt w^ere seized by an infuriated - b and literally, not metaphori • -v. t n ill: h flu-. ..^L- It formed a direct conse- ; ) MOB FURY 8i quence in the chain of events beginning with the murder of Barneveldt. John de Witt, his mind occupied with the true interests of his country, was a statesman convinced that the republican form of Government was, and always had been since the death of William the Silent, menaced by the autocratic aspirations of his descendants. William the Third, great-grandson of the Silent one (and afterwards also William the Third of England), was himself actually a silent man, alike by tem- perament and State policy. He aimed at being unchallenged ruler, and by no means relished the necessity of election as Stadtholder, which John de Witt maintained was not merely the constitu- tional basis of the country, but ought, in view of the efforts at personal aggrandisement, to be further restricted and safeguarded by conditions. Unfor- tunately for de Witt, there was then a popular party, an Orange mob, who thought i otherwise. His brother, Cornelius de Witt, was 'arrested on a false charge of conspiring to assassinate the then newly-elected Stadtholder. John de Witt was lured to the Gevangenpoort by a message ^ purporting to come from his brother, incarcerated ,there. It was a bait contrived by the Orange party with the direct connivance of William to secure the presence of the two brothers and to murder them, then and there. Such are the ways of statecraft ; and such, on occasion, the methods of one who, sixteen years later, became with his wife, Mary, a soverei^^n in w h to ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 1 T 1 rties of the f^'^vuTitrx'. 'T' .1 I ill I T-r. ! 1 m .-.n c Li" i 1 r\ t , , i ai". ■ T' I' H ^ ■ »■■?"•' 1 ' » ,' 1 ^ na.: M' ! I i f. > • 1 i \. It,' .. .. • * i . : ' ■ t ' • h > . T i \\ .iM'eii- \ t ■'• la.emeiit -= a U !i,i< >u W Uc belli g -^< soiitaiT holrl. '. 1 i ' Till 'la afi' !a-ar:at ;ia..- u. 1 ! r ,?■■:! t \\aa.,aa:'a' it ijr iih: aui i / a . » T ■. ,■ > (■ r 1,.<.L i.i- 1 '.,'»- .«. : aiai I II' ] f ! iJ \' 1 t , i ' ill", ^ i L '.«. > t- 1 a ■ i . ''•■ I i . »• it I: : ! t I , i r ii I .ail u. Hi ■axaiaa , lia' iiiiUai f * ?• \ UllvT > t , . , .\ f;*' It in: t^xtata-t'U a^' ^. 1 ■■ ' 1 i, , S, iw lit i ' i i t wiU.^/r iL ar ■ . . a- \a^aiija.' wnt aj 1' J !a- ,|-, , 1 lit U lia. ii iia V I. 't i*. 1 i. (jniif-^ a With T*aar- aaa i-"^d. ni the saliool (A ex- r f ^, t ■?'■,. I van ions : a whna^ alia alont lai fi n \ a forceful con- 3 ot the nation a> a ividually, is to be a:i ! v want so to be let al' aa the chief d I'tM piC illU ana ixft' i-^ * 1 i i 4.4 !. L LX L THE DUTCH NAVY 83 deal more than little Holland — the army i- it present being increased, and what they call a aa\ \ hs 1 » "ng St aigthened. The suspicion is that someuaa. :-om.e day, ail! be wanting Java, and perhaps ^ ra.itra, and the Lord knows what else in the East ia a-s. But if some one has a mind to doing that, it : ' need all ^loUand's resources to keep the possessions. You hear in Holland a very general discontent with proposals for military expansion and for increavse in the navy. Holland, although actin^!^- a kingdom, is in essence a crowned republic and is, and always has been, democratic in thought. A liv nrup source of amusement is the navy, in whose es an i r^l ment it is said there are more Aamirals thaii aips. It would not become a foreign visitor either im wHte opnnons on these matters or to talk them ; but he may report the talk and the views ui liollan n rs themselves. F' r myself, I thmk all that t Jk of there being more Admirals than ships is a a vx^ aggeration. Tt is more like one Adni ' ' ^ It may, however, be conceded thaa , . ., x: j as a nation or as an individual hold property and are not able to defend the possession of it, in a world not now less ruled by might than it was ir] a j. xp centuries, someone, sooner or later, will surely or will make an attempt on that property. Uiay by a show of force, in a mobilised army during the Great War, did Holland succeed in keeping her frontiers completely inviolate. 84 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE PALACE OF PEACE 85 There is a Palace of Peace at The Hague. It was established by idealists with much money and little sense for the purpose of affording a meeting place where the representatives of nations could meet and settle their disputes amicably, without recourse to arms. The very need imagined for such an establishment and such a tribunal was, if you do but consider it, the gravest warning of impending great wars. To-day that magnificent Palace is the most ironical place in the world ; and Holland, the most non-partisan nation, where it was thought most fitting to build that Palace, has ever since, unjustly, been accused by the various contending parties in the Great War, of sympathy and aid extended to one side or the other. Actually, Holland was frantically, as a nation, anxious to keep out of it, and the farmers and business men equally con- cerned to be neutral and to do a very profitable business with all belligerents. Geographical cir- cumstances made Germany the best customer. It was the most characteristic as well as the most obvious role for a country of such well-established trading instincts, and a country so small, to adopt. It could do no other without a very excellent chance of being destroyed by one set of belligerents or another. And yet the history of the Dutch people might well make any Great Power, however great, think very seriously before making war upon Holland. So Dutch traders and farmers did very well out of the war, up to a point. The farmers sold their ■n '^< •* best products, at the highest prices, to Germany, and retailed the inferior stuff for home consumption at prices by no means less ; and they realised great fortunes. But the country itself went short of food, and the expenses of mobilisation, to defend the land in case of emergency threw a heavy burden on all. So it is doubtful whether, when a balance is struck, the enriched traders and farmers are so greatly advantaged, after all. Well, then, here is the Palace of Peace ; that fatuous creation of the well-meaning but not so very wise Andrew Carnegie, who devoted £300,000 to it ; not knowing that it was really the Mausoleum of Peace he was erecting. For Peace that really was Peace died in 1914. If ghosts can revisit these earthly scenes, surely the embarrassed and disap- pointed one of a frustrated old idealist must haunt the place. All this was the outcome of the first International Peace Conference, called in 1899 by Nicholas the Second, Czar of Eussia, who was the first to break the peace, in spite of the project for estabhshing councils of arbitration. The second International Peace Conference in 1907, perhaps rather hastened a world-war than either preventing or delaying it ; for, in the impossible attitude adopted by the German delegates, just those matters which were most provocative of a conflict were ruled out of discussion. In fact, later history has shown the world in 86 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND SCHEVENINGEN 87 n t » T' nitir \i" r"; I a.-^ t! a- f'Sl -e; \.riat many of them clearly saw, that Ger- was determined to force a war, in which she ! vH: d of victory. Thus it is with no joy V ralace of Peace, and see the elaborate ry _I it all. h :*\^'-- stands in grounds of sixteen acres. i t. uaed by a French architect, Cordonnier, ult of a competition in which two hundred n competitors engaged ; and was completed if i U :; 10 house the Permanent Court of Arbi- ![.' I ^ it just in time for the Great War. One r- r '^ rather more than anything else, among those thmgs not seen, that Permanent Court and its arbitrators in the four years of war. The pi u visions for arbitrating are calculated to inu ress with the difficulty of it all ; and the housing ui Lnu happy, well-paid delegates with the jolly circumstances of being an arbitrator. A library ^.f 2iHM)ui books is there; map-rooms and every d vice for referring to abstruse questions ; and tele- ga rooms, and half-basement quarters— a kind of semi-dungeons— are provided for the journalists who are (or were) to report the deliberations of the dciugates. The nations duly played up, like accom- j^i^:»-l comedians, to this tragic-comedy. Great Br. lain contributed those four stained-glass windows of the ' '! it court ; France, the Gobelins tapestries ; I^;!l: , some pictures and the seven windows 01 li -taircase ; Germany, the massive entrance- gat, \ !ia the bronze and crystal chandeliers; ^ Li'-t. the United States, an allegorical group of statuary ; and 1 hi nations in their several ways ; not forgetting n H I, with the works for h ' ' '^^vitzer- 1 faced with the probL i .. its navy, perhaps felt that clockwnrT:^^ » vt i} minor contribution — were all it was reasonably called upon to contribute in the cause of putting a slop to the growth of armaments. On the whole, in spite of all the money lavished on this building, it is architecturally disappointing, and a mistake. Disappointing, for the work is coarsely executed ; and a mistake because in this land of characteristic and fantastic towers without number, to add another, intended to be much of the same character, but of inferior design and execution, is as absurd as it would be to try and sell a baker an ill-baked home-made loaf. XI If you wish to see how the Dutch enjoy themselves at the seaside, it is to Scheveningen you should go ; although indeed Scheveningen is international, or cosmopolitan as Ostend. It is only a little more ^--1 ^wo miles from The Hague, and for that reason it is a very fashionable place. The Palace if Peace sta- i- Hi the Park Zoigviiet, mimediati y to the left. beginning of the old road fron T l!..-^\:'-^ ss ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND DUTCH SHIPPING 89 to Scheveningen. There is probably, away from the Sahara and the sandy wastes of Egypt not so much sand anywhere as at Scheveningen. Sand on the shore, sand in the public-halls and casinos, and sand always, and very much of it, in the restaurants and in your coffee. And you find next morning, when brushing your hair, that you have brought some of it away with you. The multitudes who frequent Scheveningen sit there, for the most part, on these sands in extraordinary chairs which seem to be a combination of sentry-box and the kind of chair used by the porter in the hall of an old-fashioned club. There you will see stolid, fat, middle-aged Dutch people, sleeping away the afternoon, like a slug in a cranny. Perhaps it is even better to be a reposeful slug, thinking of nothing at all, than it is to be an agitated and self-exhausting grasshopper. I do not know. An Englishman, I think, ought to see Scheveningen, even if only to be amused at the fishermen's red breeches, the enormous figures of the fishermen's women-folk, who seem to wear more petticoats here than anywhere else in Holland, and the bath- attendants, with '' Badman " embroidery on their jerseys. But the scene is not what you who came to see picturesque Holland really have come for ; and the ridiculous seaside villas, of the same order of absurdity as those in France and Belgium, but if possible more absurd, are not Dutch architecture. T:. V are not architecture at all. Remark all these ;Jl things to a Dutchman, and he will say what you want is Volendam, with Marken added. And you do. You indeed do want Volendam and Marken. He intends it satirically, for the Englishman, and the artists of all nations, go there for the picturesque costumes. When, about 1380, Willem Benkelzoom made the great discovery that with the aid of salt a fresh herring can be preserved and stored away, instead of going bad and being an offence, he made Schevenin- gen. Not, be it said, the Scheveningen of the Kur- saals, the Noah's Ark villas, the bathers and the Badmen, but the real old fisher-place that was, and in its own quarter, yet is. The place grew up, besides this grey-blue North Sea, on the herring- fishery ; and just according to whether it was a good season or a bad, Scheveningen rejoiced or BoiiiA.t I. flourished or suffered. When, in June, the catch came abundantly home, it was met by the fishermen's folk with song ; the old song " Die Nieuwe Harang." I think they do that no more. No man unless he be a Dutch '' schipper " could possibly enumerate all the many kinds of vessels seen in these inland or coastwise Dutch waters, or very well describe their build and rig, and points of similarity or contrast. The names of them, from boats and barges, to larger craft, alt bewildering. There are ''praams" — I know what a *' praam " is, it is a small sort of a lighter, very often used for conveying market- 90 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND i!ard-?n I^xx laoe to the * town; Schuits A, sc i, i I J i 1 , - riii'iis ( : Hit a i > ' ail; a-: -a "pink" In-. a. ■ - ; - 1 a ; < ' ; , aak-^. I) 'iiv:;. ■^^'ll' K., a-^ : :up: lu^' ta-.'s. -^aa.i.' aa..i.ai passe 111: « ' r t r' a ! n './ is inaaa aa-d ml iha r^iuA '^anaB r.,/U^^-, i ii i ». ■ . i ^^ \ a. J t 11 the boier } ''■ ^ t , ; vacht ; aljl t L*-' nJ isanjics, liiu 6ciiiii^)j .ii.a Uxu a= ' ' ' _ 1. • i t l5 , But i IM • ' V * a ' the '' paviljoen . ... V " ri y^ 5; a,. wLi !-.^ ; ; 1 1 L. ^ ^"^ ' f a 13 like majestic music all,, id areiiit^'^. -Ufa! m a ^ri^rnnro- ^omethino" rnv al and ff HM H, 'i » ike t!.- I'ririoe Bra^aa';- iriarine ai e at Bn-hn. r: . u- 1' \ > i ' a ' a '.;►■• bass > an -;]■/;> fo, J -^BDlllfJ iiKi' a \ '* .''•'ft J ► ' r » T . '■ r;--:.a;a Wa---'^- ai a [h >;lT \\ '. \ ■ ; ■ ■ sn- i^' : 1 1 \ * ' ■*r i of ti . 'f r ta i i-^ exi 1 a ( '*■ V * J. A V... A ^-^ plara.* *! ir T ,is evrai oaa t-aia i i f ' A a r> -, r , ■ f t ■a-"-; a ^BiZTiity ; but ( ^vni''^: .. I ae quite, or a a^^ a TBilland ou^ht to be the foremost fitH t i- Hit Very name, althoiiirh seems so faa^lish, is Dutch. TB r of boat caliad a '' iJ..a_.^ a„..a^.a ^.a aaa„: \-^^^::n" T have not =^a-=--'--j-=i [though it sounds so tvw jj i^ visualise somethma a^a'a,'*'- UU\ f I Irft pa-t the }fuis tail la Hi taa WB^Mi '' i-> a in ; '' ^ f ■ , .■ T ^ '• -^ * » 1 1 V *-*■ A- ■^- ^ V jt. i a V ■^- * ■■ -vi .^ «..-- -. .^ „ •anrrpn and so through the Lu.icn, * r Leyden. The '' IL a^^e Palace, not oil a a>^a. ''^--^aiationai a'-a"^ i. li ■.., i I ' .1 i a, < a •=.-- ^ .^ ,.,.^ LEYDEN 91 the quiet of the woods render the place charming, although the exterior of the Palace itself is not an imposing work. It derives from a villa built for the wife of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange in 1645. But the paintings of the Orange Hail and especi - the Japanese and Chinese embroideries and cabia are beautiful enough to make a connoisseur faint with the envy of baulked possession. Leyden is nine miles distant. The Bosch ends all too soon and you come into Leyden through open country. There is, of course, a good deal characteristically Dutch in that ancient town — canals and gabled houses ; but the famous University and a good deal else is partly like some eighteenth-century town in France and partly resembles the old courts of the Middle and Inner Temple in London. Pump Court, in the Temple, is quite typical of the Univer- sity side of Leyden, and of many of its grave and reverend brick streets. xilthough the University was founded so far back as 1575 — which is as the day before yesterday in comparison with Oxford or Cambridge, it has not that venerable collegiate appearance we generally in England associate with University buildings. If we say and think it has an appearance of an abode of lawyers, that of course, is by association with the look of the Temple and Gray's Inn. Yet, although the general view is that of a reserved domestic architecture, much like typical old Queen Anna 92 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE STADHUIS TOWER 93 houses, Leyden University actually centres about a nunnery. It has always been an abode of learning. It is probably the only place in the world where rooms to let are announced in classical language. '' Cubicula locanda " you may note displayed in the course of your explorations. Learning pervades Leyden. But it is learning of a more practical kind than that im- parted at Oxford or Cambridge, and it has never been a place conferring a social cachet. Students are not sent to Leyden to make friends useful in after life among the governing classes. They go seriously to acquire knowledge. The University would seem even to have been founded on that serious and thorough note. When William the Silent asked the people of Leyden, after he had relieved the town after its gallant defence in the Spanish siege of li"! how he should recognise their bravery and sacrifices, they chose rather to have a University than to accept the offer of going tax-free. Medicine and science have ever been the chief subjects on which Leyden University has built its fame. Indeed, so awed by the deep knowledge of its professors was the world of old that they were supposed to dabble in the black arts of sorcery, and to be questers after the Philosopher's Stone, which would turn base metals into gold. W^hen an electric spark was produced in a Leyden jar, about 1729, it was an uncanny demonstration absolutely in keeping with the rather uncomfortable reputation for mystic deeds which the learned but harmless professors of Leyden had long been saddled with. But it was rather late in th-e day for sorcery. If this were a guide-book (what the Dutch style a '' gids " ; one of those words they have adopted from the French and given a grotesque spelling), a very gxeat deal could be written of the history of Leyden, and of the contents of its museums and picture-galleries. Holland seems to the stranger to be a land of picture-galleries and museums. But these pages are nothing like that. They are just impressions. That being so, it behoves the writer to give his immediate impressions of such outstanding objects as readily attract attention. The chief among these is unquestionably the Stadhuis tower and spire. It generally, as a matter of fact, is so, in any Dutch town. This feature of Leyden Stadhuis is however, a very tall and upstanding one and a prime specimen of the fantastic, or '' design- it-as-you-go-on " style. Making a beginning as a respectable, steady-going, rather stodgy tower, it then begins an amazing and soaring career of what look like articles of domestic furniture and decora- tion piled one upon another during an orgie of spring-cleaning ; Moorish tea-tables, occasional tables, work-boxes and those misbegotten objects neither of use nor beauty which most people, even the best-intentioned among us, accumulate. This ex- traordinary pile finally proceeds to its conclusion i'i Hit 94 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND lething like the gigantic model of a pine , lupptu with the lantern-cage of a lightship. It is only one of many of the kind in Holland, 1 ut it is a prime specimen, and it renders at least one rorner ui staid Leyden as completely and I t ously Dutch as anything in the country. Thi in n - liate surroundings ably keep it in coun- tenance. There in the foreground is the Visch- iian:: ,L i.eed not translate that into English), anf! what looks like a canal, but is indeed the Rhine ; all tL it is left of it by the time it comes to Leyden ; or ratiier the Old Rhine. Other and lustier Rhine mouths are those at Rotterdam and Dordrecht ; and oii...iier elsewhere. Under various aliases, just like any other German seeking to disguise his I I hality, they pretend to be other than they are, and so escape away as the Maas, the Waal, the Yr-' !, and the Merw^ede, and possibly others yet. The most staid and placid object in this view, c ; : ': g to rcprovc all this fantasy, is the Koren- L-.^ig, a bridge with a classic timber covered way Of: it. very dignified, but looking scandalised by ii-> situation, and hurt by being placed in a false pDsition on a bridge where it appears to have no business at all. li yuii have speech with the good folk of Leyden, K : uite likely that, seeing you to be a stranger I : riaccountably interested in such things, you re infnrmed that Rembrandt was a native : n. Leyden is not greatly intrigued with W;: %*«\>^i- — — — raat.. I .1 > V, '^^yt::. LBYDEN: THE 8TADHUIS TO WEE AISD I *J» v..' jL* ^ BHINX. 9 I -w REMBRANDT 97 the foremost of Dutch painters, and there is not one t, ., t- i Uli ■j*^.,i t I u ^ J 1, i u >. vvorks in the place. But anyone will li he was born ; in a mill to be found situated outside the town, on the lie was not, as a sheer matter of fact, but picturesque legends are ever more accrpfnble ^^nn facts. He was, it is true, son of armei : van Ryn, whose mill stood on hi present one, and was born in 1606, t he town ; but as no one knows exactly ill has been adopted as the birthplace ^^ hen he was in his twenty-first year, to Amsterdam, and Leyden knew him tl it' ■ i ' < t ■ »•» in fj^' n-i no ! itj J ri\ aru .L. semic >'i I i i, U Itl i and -IK h. too Hooglaiid^rii Jl JLA \_/ i i ;. -i nes AS I lit' r{n>]rTr; - -1 pets, ( du T-- ; J camr !i church interiors are singularly alike. All iiost have apsidal east ends, with a fer of columns in the choir and an Li A them. Such is bi,. Peter's, Leyden, i^ ^t. Pancras, better known as the \ rk. In the first is the very fine al ^'in^y, by Hombaud Verhulst, of Johan- K ckhoven, 1660; and in St. Pancras' beautiful little mural monument, charmingly ulptuii 1 with Cupids blowing trum- i -hearted Burgemeester of Leyden I! siej:3 of 1573-4; that enduring Peter V li a [ Werff who, when the burghers I* i nag, to him, saying they were starving, tli a they could have his body to stay their i they would, but surrender he would not. a 51 I 98 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND XII Fifteen miles separate Leyden and Haarlem, pass- ing Sassenheim, Lisse, Hillegom, Bennebroek, and Vogelzande. It is a country of sand, for the sea, although not visible from the road, is not far away, and to the right stretched for miles until 1853, / ".'-.7>*^-'«Tr. r; 1-;- ' <•"/ t.^. •A ' J5" - ; -"* - • B fv^^vnbt's mill, leyden. when the draining of it was completed after fourteen years' work, the great Haarlemmer Meer, an inland sea on which battled in the sixteenth century the ships of the " Water-Beggars " and the Spaniards. Seventy-two square miles were added to the country when that water was aboUshed and the fertile TULIPS AT HAARLEM 99 Haarlemmer Polder took its place. The depth ( f ! he meer was never more than six feet, and generally only about four, yet on it naval battles were lost and won, and at the draining away of the water many relics of these conflicts were dis- covered. There is thus not merely much sand, but a certain kind of look as of new settlements about the villages. They are upstarts and not picturesque. The business of all this part is the old famous ('!u ui tulip-growing, to which were long since added other bulbous flowers ; and more recently the growing of roses. Approaching the town of Haarlem, the road runs through the lovely Haarlemmer Hout, or Haarlem Forest. The town is the capital of all this floricultural industry, which you perceive to be an extremely busy and profitable trade ; not only by the wayside evidences of numerous large firms engaged in it, with their extensive fields and con- siderab! business premises, but by the beautiful modern villas in their own wooded grounds in the Forest. Modern Continental villas are too fre- quently garish and pretentious, and so completely lacking in taste that they are a by- word. And when a builder erects one by the sea, he seems to go quite rabid Rut these country houses are distinguished exceptions ; and as we come into the suburbs of prosperous and expanding Haarlem, it will be found that they, too, partake of that renaissance of taste which began (to give a convenient date), with the 100 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE TULIP MANIA lOI ^,pp..:>.^ nf ila- [wi ::ii<-''u <■■-':. ^'-.rv, ana iia^ since tl^.n^ ui.ni Ui.ll'-i '.\-r-. wi.yn- i..y r'..^ r;r,,,a War, made ast'..!u:-hih.j : rugrcss. Kv. rv r, i .,- read of that great Tulip Mania vv' ;: - in n.- -;i':^ I'-iii -. in- :>'-\-> :.^"-*ith century .,.,:* :.il IhAli'/i ■. r::/v with ^upru Jatiuii ^ 11. e tulip ssa. iiJ.t heard o! :: \--y- ■ ■' ^" ■ - ^ ^'-^uer saw y. -p^''f'inif^n growu;^ in :: j -•';-!. :: i ...^^ .'.-, m (ifrn.a.r.} , I^ had i--,. --- .. ' .--^ .; * L' ; ^ . Soon attervvuras thi- a^i- P ': :^'-'-- -^- ■ ^^-^ ^' br,-arut: u pa^^ion WitJi w,.rit}:y fand^T^, and by IniH? T.u>M'.:- some. Xiie cuil was n fadncai, rjiLar than it n:ai intrin>i- Liypreciation of n:*^ lann- iu,i ana-^r ^r,(l .-ta^a!\- 1^^'^antv, \\> ma^- la^a m, f/xnatiiatioii of t}^,: nv-rr..,,i.:n ara- fr-in:\' -f tia- iiae m price? of tui:p-n h^, cuaan,.,na,i: a, iu^Jb m ila' v.uaa -a :.i .inuU, ^./^y.r ,Ja;.-^.^^^:. hnih, ^T^ifl for KiJanij iiurniS, orab'.ul .ti,:JUU, U. nia; ^aaaa.r, ?^,..w v,.;.hth ^h firaiai:,!. ^"Le ^tnd^an arH per-^ai;t,.| Jaiaj a-i Spcnaad: lap^i^rus- w;ra: haci }>v diL' ai ifa' traar^:n ahpaa-^ (A har iner- fl.uin-. baaana- ;aa:ai>a:y^ prr.y'ar.a,.if^. .Nut a-n!y htui Spain ba..a,i p^^J'niwJia htana ra bn^^ th- Diiu^h tracier^^ :bc. j'i V*an'a:bii-t' if; !!aaa?al a*' an-ce of ra-a^paiatv war- laairiDii j(^ <- artists, T'^ it v-^- ^'naa tla:^ )]:i, !: r'ab^aa ra !au!,n-:ra !!: tiait ;■ * ;-M i iia,^ \i lb aau -.•-:i.ia.i '- arvriit^-a' a iu da j^:avuiy >ta'ihanM:'n, and had aapnirad la !■ i that liHa' tb'' aa-: frUit Hi iba i.na-.a frfca ' '.-a'a'K^- Ca "^ I.' ara, ,,:aai Ua'- la-' ■ tUra. as avyri other pubiic and pravaita buiidings. Ihe pu^sesmjii of anything rare was competed for, and it needed little for the araaa:aor r.f a crazc. But tha T a M became a madness that went aa> ia,r as t^i Inaajine a stock-exchange boom ; avers who never wished to nd sold what they never rha turn Y i % % T <' I .1:: - ^. tu specuiute ■ " * a buyer would An amusinp: story and dealers and p gruw the bulbs n^aig a; saw, biter t only n: ()l tilt,' n^.^: . ' i : -v . in luiips. r)aaa^i,^.nal]v b " ' ' takf; deb vara ui a : .a wais tt'id (A d niercduint wpu aati ' - n -- : ■ : Af-"ff>ik'r ,J (/pa ta b . . is we have seen, a nin i aa name r*'i four times as ninidn He was pa^alaibd' -I -a- a : merchant, wnsi was ia*;lai^ina.: t(i sir on a;- - - a ' . IbiT not 1 V r: '■ .a. !!a : ^ f - en Pa a -^i it tei aaaHiter -! P: • -a:. 'W . , , he jait it ^a :• a.^ 'a^ a..-.' ^ a ..-•..., • • - to (iefiaait it m the safe a.r maaa A\' .. . *, his neirbaenee eu^rsi iiim hia La^naa n>jr .i u:. . . . o has] acan- tt* ehe him news oi tn- irrivai a:' -hips ti: aab^ t!a^ '■ ■ . - Waa an OniOD, ;.nd pa! n" in his poiku. oj • a" ' L d < ipia\n wbdi a n a iaatn.a The menhant. a:-, ^ .a missed hi:- ... w -ibv tu bnd the i,^niji aatnpn tlie biat :n _..'.. : mae I2s0 wa)rth ed rehsh wiili lua food. Wdian tiic iuhp Manui buiat, iB 1636, and prices a 102 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE GROOTE KERK 103 IjL . Lanitously, thousands of people were ruined fiT 1 the very trade of the country suffered severely f I years. Tulips were then comparatively cheap, and a Semper Augustus which had been 13,000 florins' value, was worth only 50 florins. There is a Tulip Sunday around Haarlem, towards the close of April. Foreign tourists therefore do not often see Haarlem's most beautiful sight, nor the acres upon acres of hyacinths ; only the coloured pictui -postcards of them. Those bloom all the year round in the shop-windows of the town, but they scarcely fill the place of the actual display. TL. n..tch bulb-growers are used to great crowds of visitors, mostly their own compatriots, at tulip and hyacinth-time. It is a recognised pilgrimage, to drive to the flower-farms and admire those gor- geous carpets of colour ; but while you are loud in praise of the Darwin tulips, or are especially interested in hyacinths that appeal to your aesthetic tastes, the grower himself, it will be found, is apt to be enthusiastic only on varieties that do not especially appeal to you. For he is a connoisseur, not of necessity in beauty, but far more likely in rarities. And you have to recollect that he is a bulb-grower not for the joy of seeing all these acres in bloom — which after all is only a very fleeting joy— but for business. And a very thriving kind of business it remains. To visit one of these business-men at " coffee- drinking," which we would call tea-time, with a Dutch friend, and then to go with him and listen to the talk about new varieties of feathered and striped tulips is to learn that novelty is far more admired than intrinsic beauty ; because novelties are more valuable. The great bulb-barns, where in June, when the flowering is all done and when the bulbs are brought in to be dried and cleaned, sorted and stored away, are interesting. The slightly aromatic interiors are busy with workpeople, brushing the onion-like bulbs and peeling them. Others are putting them away into bins, and into racks, according to varieties ; the racks reaching far away overhead, into the dim recesses of the roof, accessible only by long ladders. Generally there is a cat, or a number of cats, living in the barns, for mice seem to be rather fond of bulbs. The centre of Haarlem is the Groote Markt, where the great church of St. Bavo stands in one corner, with the electric trams swinging round the narrow street at the east end of it, and the statue of Coster and the old Meat Market at the west end. The Haarlemmers consider that Coster, and not Gutenberg, of Mayence, invented the art of printing, shortly before 1447. The Chinese believe that (with a difference) they did the same, and forgot all about it, many centuries before. The great church is one of the finest in Holland, celebrated too, for its great organ, built in 1738, and one of the largest known. You can hear the 104 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND thunders and the reverberations of it from without, in spite of the rattle of the electric trams. The Koster who showed me round, with a pruiound indiflerence to this exceptionally beautiful church and spat indifferently on the floor and the pillars 'if*'-^-Mjl-ii^r'jl|jll|ib-|Ittt^i^^ EX-VOTO SHirS, IIAAELEM. ^^- ■ ; removed his hat — quite an exceptional thing in this country m the House of God, which perhaps does not seem to them to be divinely occu- pied di u- ^ other than those of Divine Service. EX VOTO 105 (3 L) i 1 i I J- • in in all iiiit.;riur> It is a curious mentality which will permit a Dutch- man to wear his hat in a church, while he would always, with an instinctive politeness, remove it tjii itering a private house. Perhaps it may be the survival of a hatred and contempt for the old religion of the persecuting liiig ago, which revealed itself tlion a; 1 estruction, and still bin vs u-/^' i - -li-iy and thoroughly white wii-i^ ' ih^ n^-iK^ss of bare meeting-houses. ' erior of St. Bavo is rather exceptionally here nre even, \Hiy astonishingly, ^^ni ill models of ships i ided m the choir. They uaic ixuiu luiib, but represent earlier ones. In a Ii-^man Catholic church we should ca!! them " ex voto," and regard them as pecuharly Catholic oiienni^s. On i vn]^' the boy wh and so di ! \.f i I i iX V*- f , ^ i:x^i '4 V close at hand, the heights of some vely tall and ah i Hv short Haarlem- - - about in the . I sought it) is the gravestone of '^vo' rude to his father and mother, His little finger according to nyi fir ugh the slab, and has to be I every five years. The pruning v^a place shortly before my visit ; r was there. , you perceive piles of '' stoofs " npr Unrated wooden boxes li .tch churches, often \f^ "zrvri ! n io6 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND THE SPANISH SCOURGE 107 carved and brightly painted. To a stranger their use is rather puzzhng, but possibly you have guessed already that '' stoof " means literally " stove." They are the usual winter foot-warmers for the P ;' h women during service, and contain a metal ay for peat. The Dutchwomen sit with their feet on them, hidden beneath their capacious skirts. ' >!ie object the Koster will be sure to point out. That is the cannon-ball still embedded in the wall. It passed through the church, above the pulpit, just missing the preacher's head. It is a relic of tl- irreat and tragic siege of Haarlem by the Spaniards i:. 17 J Haarlem does not forget that. The starv- ing and hard-pressed people, relieved from time to time in that severe winter, when the Haarlemmer Meer was soUdly frozen over, and when provisions were brought in by helpers coming through the fogs uL i . irkness on skates, could at last endure no more. Winter passed and with it the protection of the ice. Yet it was not until July 12th that, after vainly expecting relief by the troops of the Prince of Orange, Haarlem surrendered. Men, women and children alike had fought the Spaniards, and had repulsed them with heavy loss, repeatedly. Trained soldiers could have done no more. The horrors of the massacre that followed, when two thousand three hundred Haarlem citizens were LLxaiuc red, in a savage reprisal for their heroic defence of seven months, are a part of the story common lu many a Dutch town. Twelve thousand of those Spanish besiegers had fallen by wounds or disease in those seven months ; and Philip of Spain, long vainly expecting the surrender, was ill at Segovia. The news of the surrender, however, communi- cated to him by the Duke of Alva, restored him to health. His secretary, Cayas, wrote from Madrid, *' The principal medicine which has cured His THE GROOTE MARKT, FAAHLEM. Majesty is the joy caused to him by the good news which you have communicated of the surrender of Haarlem." The recovery from those terrible times seems to us astonishingly swift and complete. Twenty-eight years later, so prosperous had Haarlem, among many other towns, become that it was the centre of a school of architecture. Soon after the opening A io8 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND f t ^i M. V t'i I I. ft; ; i i [l M^Mt .Mark>*T:, liai-i i J ' ' l:{.'' na H'S<, ir V 1 f ■^ \)U. ■ ' , i ' > ', ■ f i ' I f to a . 4 t ,K I n ^ S \! I ■ H ; JM 1603, was built the i\''r;{ ; onp of tJi6 n J .; if- liiLucLci, iii LiiC P'%/: ir,"!^' »J V N^niia i i >„ i ; I'i ana u.^' ii.iost successfiii ^': in T.^ndnn \% the ' " • d" \ ■:>* corti^'T = ' ]■ , - . ' J ) , ■ ■ '^ , *. O C . U U it^irieve the ipH of a f^'i\ai:i. >loininatioii. .u,'i conscious <;' a ii>ar rt'biiits alike in v.-a.iu Ti; we men who brought 1 i ) ♦ ' >■• ? t: A I and artir^i'' exrT' i i. ;. 4, ■ 4 i'-- lu bu iound }.'iL he f Fraii- Ha,:-, who w-^knu. lisT^ in TTaarlem truo works ill those v-ar-, a!id until itioi. i a-r^ "^' a are, in ten la'ba- r-aiiitiiw^,, in the niunnaiMi niuseiun ; th^-^ '' \xmAvi\iaa..ea;i'-c>a:r ut Haiaranu, aan !a- ^vafe ; and others ; the w.a-;.; -^ ^kat re itest < 1 a- au-i-, which no visitor to Haarlem can atiora tu ina-s. Haariena i- ar^.-v; »t. It has a i.«> O i , i • ^ ^ WHERE THE BABIES COME FROM 109 as can be imagined ; where the modern hotels are, and I ha ar^ait hais^.nes'- af'/a-a'^a-- : a!1 very laicr- national ana, \ai-aj.. ^na, naon -■. Betara f aiding good b\e . a, I sought on its aut:darta the old iaai nailed '^ K^^a-nkjelek,'' whose naiii- mL^ixs *' the leaking t.iph^ X-ar by it ; ,n a -^ a^ ^ hollow oak; its hollowed trunk rail i aw which is (or at any rate, used to be), greatly report ! t » i v those Haarlem families who desired additions to their ranks. Or so the story gois, it was good enough for the children of a simpler aire When a boy or girl was required, aas sent to the tree, In \^hose hollowed numbers of lovelv infanis waiting imed. They received the nurse with appeals oi dai . me, take me," Selecting one or more, 1 1 e liurse extracted a promise of good behaviour, una ua vcd the recruits home. So it was that i! an] m children were ill-behaved, tiuar s always reminded them of a pwraa-e. a 4 recorded a- 1 a n.-r xli^y threatened to send j-(:.ee'=:s^> were + , ■ a. ,. wlic It a thw aiad through the railings, but I could see no n ; so I presume that to-day they are obtained i, ■ i '^ 5^ > '» A i \ , (L v3 » no ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND XIII r I LEFT 11 arlem for Amsterdam by road. Had I known what those ten miles of road were like, I would have gone any other way, for truly it is as THE AMSTERDAM GATE, HAAELEM. depressing a route as well may be imagined ; and it does by no means maintain the picturesque promise of the exit from Haarlem by the Amsterdamsche Poort. That ancient gate, the only one remaining, :? N EARING AMSTERDAM III presents two faces altogether unlike each other, one towards the town and the other to Amsterdam. There is a great deal of traffic along this road, and the roadway through the gate is now far too narrow. In all those ten miles to Amsterdam you pass through dismal dull scenes such as you are accus- tomed to on the outskirts of every great and growing city. There is the expectation of further expansion, in the notice-boards of land for building, and indeed in factories built a little before the psychological moment, and now with r o^ices offering '' Te Koop," i.e., " To be Sold " ; and houses " Te Huur," that is, " To Let." An unpicturesque canal on one side of the road, an electric light-railway on the other, and an ordinary railway, all combine to make the way unpleasant ; and there are many more motor cars here than anywhere else in Holland ; a country where, as a rule, there are singularly few. This unprepossessing approach is succeeded by a long, narrow, intensely crowded and busy street conducting directly to the harbour and the Central railway station, which faces it and is Central only in name. There are no railways at all in, or anywhere near, the centre of Amsterdam, which is the Oude Turfmarkt. There could not very well be railways there, because of the conditions. Amsterdam is built on piles amidst the waters. The street plan of it very closely resembles the half of a spider's web, or the half of a wheel, and comparatively few of those streets are without a canal, it is these 112 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND canals, ! r ^ which t ^ - ^ ; ions of the houses often <\i^'vT\y Uc-li'^:^ :. :;. ' :,' it! parts of the city, whh/i;. f;;j v'>.; invr-n A,;:..- » = :'!. I! 1 i\]^ \"rv obvion- Tiam«^ > , r oil ! ! I ;l H I vs V. n,niMi, inriiMiiig 1 1 > 1 1 1 ■ !c-- i:^ most ui Liic diaJii'.iL market f'^r (li-rn'-isa,^ u = r, M'lA ' -r' THE WEEPERS* TOWER, AMSTERDAM. i! 1 ' r equence has long also been *he home of the d riic r i i . v. i I intolerance was the system of v r othf?r coiiuivw U vrr^r]^ no Si:^-rlock In^inio'^'s nt-L'/Man' ^r.i. tv» identify u -nn^'. '/. h-n \'ou see one; n r i^ iLe occupation of a diamuii i nif^rrhant icc>^ .a:-- Ili:^ I::: iIj. ^.A n.,..:'' d, rareiv-t la, nail of 01,/' ^ tf t i ^ir> r^E BUILDERS OF AMSTERDAM 113 the little finger, with which it is found most con- veni^^iif to sort diair^^nds and brilliants. it,ai :■'■*,: oil )terdam i n<.n i'lixlrdv peculiar i*' lU' A ilAn'rvfit from most \' ■ i . • ■ > Tl t" < 1 t j : V x-rf v^ ^ I ^./V V \^ v^m "VT latta for it L- islam] ; tiie >:n= j^^ i^^repared '*v piles. lih;tt bv the w "\ Mit-iaiiUa. 11, t smguiarly London, i and :Aaj\rel, ^- , ■■ 1 iicH' til, 1,1 be ._ 1, t- ^ V J i { » o ■\ 1 ■ at i i-.n !■! - (A - J a twenty-five feet or iiVikiiiii c^i t!,i^^ place, from the esstaiaj' Aa: nerdani, the dan. whe !i n a, taxied simply '' Th^ 1 centre of the city's life, altho ah ^ ■ - .! ; - hub. The ant is the wonder of the insect world for in- dustry ; the coral insect, or worm, i- narvel of thf rropic seas in its slow, patieiit n of reefs ; but the Dutchman, who is i an insect u a worm, rivals them in his a .* rable -t a iiastness. Amid surroundings of a character, among waters and mud and mds. he has cTr^iu_'d llii5 very pern: '?•■ ^ ' ' : ,; ^-.^dd, "■ 1 ^■^^-i f^e,.-^A?an jreat city. le** ui^aiiiiess of Amsterdam is reared a. n pda pmg and merchandise com i aith tht a* : East Indian possessions. ^w' I iJ. '_ - hings 1 «4 aceroed t ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND () ! ( counts for its rise from a a^u i '• 1 1 -^ t-a.r: I ! i ' > ! ' ■- nteenth through tilt' li'j\"ai PtilucL Dalii \^ iii fv.i-i ■f ■ : > t fit' the 1 t J ■ i_. • 1 I i U i. ; i U :f t i • '\-:i! Ik ■ ibices r ri tciriv iiiipurraiu'e of di^ n\^ Iji UahV atid tfH,sc coloiih '• I r ■ i ' - la 1 tjl^-aa, /iii'i ?'^-^ uii.t wa,»aL la>iii- B^a.,:paa'M- ^ Ta,- naaa^'ii^a |artde of lia: ta-, a ad. ra:a\-! v-\vpa1thv "na"^-"^-: "R-pnblir. nrri UsO .a' ^L- !u*a'-'iiaat^aa\ra' urers of Amsterdana in those far- liMQQeQQions is ai-- hin-nMl iuudiy .U!^ eni- a a t.rv circumstance withoin - . * ' in, < ! ' ' ■ I A.' u u a a* i \ ; i J ' ' youn^a 1 !i I M,h], lA ll I i a i:imi.u luwn Hall, un which wu: uxi 't aii.icvi fci O" the fa--;-a ,n 000 Yet surmounting its tower is the a r-vane of a merchant a a, formeiiv 'j: tiia i av's arms, before it wa^ iW^n the riaai ^ assume an imperial a a a T » -tate and inaar.ni'-'ai-r' '■: the inLorior are such ta.ir this f niat r i vvr Hail and residence of the Burgemeester '.;! Ui:-^ '.Mia * = An ■ ^-M ta'i i.na "■ • ^ a ' foraaun parr-. 1 |:t tiia richest aiaiuna Uia li' ' i ' .s h her sons v a earlv into on Ol'n;- tha \vatan-. tha ua.i fMiU a tuV\Li .^' . i-O 10- ^toren." ijunt in 14^2, n :< now a .; ai'i.ai I +■ ' 1 ' F' •■< a ^' L Xx V." ^^1 ^~ : v., ^^ VI " W'ee^ui. X u a? ui j> '•> M 1 ;/ %, ..& n ^^ -■ .. >W - a n ^ ^il^^a *• . Pits kf - - . -l-Vu' •^' ~ vilHB ' ^ ' -S'iP''' I---; ■' -^ w-^^^rt"X a., .fe^^: , \.Jpiia«;*'-v^ ■, i^i ■ _:-«""aaaau •■• ICm in '.- ; ' ^ . f l:a,a h,.'^ fUT . lliliUiJititI: t a The Qiieera- i. odd prapiaa Il ! na a i u>; 5 ^3 .n 'i - la 1 -'^i'*^d .houaas sliowa hov\aaver. their a- 1 '''■■<■'■* i i Uiii me -^ ^^ old hnn^pv on th^ f .1 li \ iotice a kind of archite . . _. » ei^e riiaii iii HnlIai,a.L "^^^^ iHatah a i say, and shall say constantly m ua r I ages, are a likeable and a polite people, pad ta please ; but there is an objectionable leaven m the great populous cities. That is the uav a populous and great and crowded. A la aa a purposely pushed a 3 -e a.^a la the side. Just one of -' roelstra, the Socialist * « - w .i. ^ a -* as elsewhere, ma} ialist Party in ^ expected ii8 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND to npprnve : the hatred of the neckcloth for the linen ; r 1! ever, I observe that the recent ur>t result 01 .vu--ii obtaining the vote in Hollaii lias beer: tL^' r«"'^ir!i to pow^^r of a Conservnn\r tiM\>rii- 1. i . I lie fellow a backhander uhich knocked , :: ; . I II took it lamb-like, although a ^--e po^ t r t ii man. an i picked up his cap and disappeared. \ p eman la on, impassive, r-mni-p non- C U i 1 a ! . ^ I L ci i » XIV Everyone who travels for curiosity in Holland is u^pected to go to Zaandam, because ti hut occupied by the ship-building Czar, Peter the Uieat, is there. It matters nothing that he occupied it only a week. ,bt;iitiment has made ii perhaps the greatest popular shrine in the Netherlands. This is a giccit thing in a land so unsentimental. It is far easier to come to Zaandam by water than by road. In anv case, you will have to cross from j{rr>:zff.T^nm I \ iuxry to the opposite shore of the Y ; ana a u a^ ne far happier on a steamer vi^h a bicycle than un those roads with it ; and will get there sooner, too. Zaandam is on the river Zaan. It is la a a.ciitly the place of windmills. Tn one -! ^ i ..,...a,^-^ np to two "^-i-^l^p^ of them and i I ZAANDAM 119 ^ I i^. i I left off only because I grew tired ; not because there '^^^'-vr n-> move windn^ill^. 1 will swear to the tratai ni tha h ore any commissioner, if you like; but ! \u>\)o yijii will take my word for the truth of it. because tal ing an oath before a commissu such tiaws now costs two shillings, in place of the TTiodpqf one ^' before the war " ; that landmark in time and in costs and charges. The '' Ozaar leLci iluisje '' is not difficult to be found, in fact, it would be difficult not to be herded to it by the swarm of idlers, begs^ars, and self-appointed guides, who assume that ]a> ii can possibly come to Zaandam for any otL a raj Aa L after all what do yon see ? Just a it tip hut, \ ah windows not unlike those in the stern of a ^iiip at that period, 1697, when that amateur ship- wright wa- here : th'> flooring in billows, the sea itself. The humble little hut is encased within an iron fan! Ung, to preserve it. That was the pious work ('' pious " in the Chinese sense of ancestor- worship), of Anna Pawlowna, the Russian Grand T> a-'hess, wifp of William the Second, King of Holland, nearly a century ago. Twenty-five cents, the standard price of a cup of coffee, of entrance to a church or to anything ei:.c, see you into that " huisje," not without a dubbeltje or so to the importunate who unneces- sarily show you the way. And so. leaving the red roofs of Zaandam and the green-pamted houses— when they are not painted 120 red — awav WHICH] i']]?. or ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND fr those whirring and beckoning ? :iM WV-izaand Znandvl-. to Krom- Tla- 1- V. : ,\ t^;- Dutch '-:i]i '' H.-linn^-i !^.ll^t." Thai 1:3 "at ll^> naliuUc-l a famous definition V • ' U i i i » * » ' ' I ■ 4. ;t region may 1^^^ most KASTEEL ASSUMBUEG. 1 V .'if of network as '' holes surrounded by string." It ju ui canals, lakes and watery polders apparently at hazard, by dykes and Is. The country being like that, it =^eein^ to a >T!aa:o^ infinitely rash to have cut two ^ i^ -1 in aii al - Xord-Zee Kanaal, and the ]S ( r i H : H loei. Kanaal, through it; but the I) itris a v ,n peoples, have the technique for that I tc.-'i'^t ^ 1 .i t _.,V.-.'V-"-i i 1 I found myself, rather than purposefully r tt Heem^kerk. and came upon a 121 V, ,; V iilu'-tv ii romanticaii\ -•!• - it. I wns ti this ri^iuaiitii F^'iiHi ■?ii I i iv f'.n ■' a m_'.iU l^.ii. ■ *• • [.■■ ^-as Kasteel A.,-- ! came upon a .in. whose oaiiu way of pateiit-iiieiiiriii' I. .J. 1 1 > > .. ' I i .. --^ ill Hals \\,{itj had annexed Holland] '' ;• h a^-.l m } ' It - -f ' -) I \\': 1 >■ < 1 . wuie iaa.! Russian force landed iag aimlessly among "a- • -^ a 1 V the French at > - a It* take again ta . : ^ ose behalf this expedition hao cautiously looked on and did nothing. V\ V cannot now verv well lose our way to Alkmaar as la a lid the Russians, for the road is well sign- 11 e name of Alkmaar means " all sea." It is i V an appropriate name, but was originally even n.iore ?o. To-day it is the scene ^*t * * iiairket in Holland. Friday is n :•■'" \ =a.i I. a a a-^ rh;,r-a . . aiglxt : a Frid^ -■1- •{'r-> ff^ ...■!* -f- f- TIT ordeiiv fa:'a|.i^^ ce^ !;-.=-f round cheeses, aa^-' -v::e ie.vai a prnje coloured unc^) lou , uriaiigc>i *•'• -■ in white linen suits ; lo( p 1 1 ... -.. L • t * , I, 1 .i . f \ , i : 4 U ,' J 122 South ( ) I t i : : ■ (IT, > ■ ; " ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND \*^ erican or other tropical planters. Most ) . 1 selling takes place in front of the \\' t-^U. t- '- I L 1 1 ■ ,, 1 .here. was \ '' . , i 1 one u. 11 ,1: the iiiUbl eiaUuraie s the impression f]:^": [' 'n II. a::.', business a religion ; nini ii l- nui .=u : *L Hi Ilk. oither ; and especially appropriate i I that impressive and beautiful building 'riih.dlv a r^hurch ; the Church of the H y It ceased to be so in 15^^ • iie year- ni. r ^ ;ii 'laiile and c>uccessful iiuioic defe^^cu ui t that siege by tl ^! k /hich, r i Hi the place be ^ j . ^ v nui have m/^an^ pv^rv throat being cut. The Spani^^^s I ;? f ! uiised as much; to outdo u horrors uf flii fii. I) ! 1 loderic had written to Philip of ^ • : I 1 take Alkmaar, I am resolved not to leave a :iUigle creature alive ; the knife shall be ]) :t h; every throat ! " Scarcelv the way to bring about a surrender! A i A naar fought accordingly with a desperation u ■ elsewhere in history; men, women and children. The defence was conducted with the usual I : turesque aid of molten lead, boiling water and lime ; with the highly original addition of hoops soaked in tar, set alight and flung among the assault- ing parties so that, with necks encircled ly these II ry gudies the bpamsh soldiery were almost burnt I v- ; an application of the S aards' own medicine auto-da-fe, ironically apposite. The t, iV '.. c x<- > M.' i,i- * ii '. 1 then came the it of the TO THE ZUIDER ZEE 123 dykes being cut and the country inundated. The besiegers withdrew and Alkmaar was saved. In modern times a statue of '' Alcmaria Victrix " h s Ih i n r um 1, lu celebrate this event. We thus see that th r ' I a church into a wii-^hdiouse, soon after that siegi , va n thing symlndic of Alkmaar's liberation. The iuit\ luwer was adilt I m. 1599. Tinkling tuL '!i ■* ' J aiiti bacd^ ■ ; 1 5 i o un the clock sends forth 5 i iiurse- who conduct a mediaeval tourney. XV From Amsterdam the foreigner in Holland is sup- port i V Dutch satirists at once to make his way to Voleii iui This reflection is very pleasing to the a vera -a Dutchman, who believes neither in Volen- dam. M ..K /-\ y-\ <--! o TTV"^ VI Edam, nor the island oi M i.en. i will lint i\,::,: IT niai. you; by the ''foreigner" U: -itiirnine Duichman really means the English- n aiL who is attracted by the quaint old-world cos- tumes of the fishermen and their families in those '*^^ — ^ -^ 'He, or in, the Zuider Zee. Dutch people perceive there, but in the season chiefly have convinced themselves that the i continue tt da themselves m thtir .s trousers, queer jackets, and fur caps ey like it not because other people do. a - are better worth looking at than are V>r 124 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND the .r ^ hant Jews of Amsterdam, who i , .f Uy-ir -t=H>v \i.-irHA.h' ijii luj\r in :-van'Li (ji iii^- pj;-ur^ [iO^/tat I'Jh. .n ih Du ! ' ■ , ? pf'T^^'n-. but 'lo hot ap|H;,ir t^. ihak'- .1, f^'ti-'i -i^' Vwi-luf*:! ^•-^ 1 ''^'il! n^„'r. n- an Mmrh-hman. n?-:--] an explorer ii'''j'^-'-ai.,i!n,. '•Vf/r. L.'x- I'.o.,:;;. visi, also i<> \ oieii . . . But ii^j'^v tu L!-' u.-r" ? TfH' ah^wrr 15: u/:. , birviip, a^r^^^ rha \'. hv :X'-n!r- !Vrrv, and ** -IX null- \^v rnaji, !■; ^leciiiu-r. 1 hi'-D: .;[>■ - :.*' '-'• i:-' ' ^ ' ilil^L' : I'. ^ib on I ^ ■! pv-raJ 1 imes a t'^^'-a;-^ ' '■■ ^1 ;.;- ^.a,a la,: Vi:-Xaa Volcil- dam and the L^aih,] =a \iari'aUi , and tilra .u^ w-H -A- f"r tfia road, ... free puWic-servicc ^lis^Lr-UMry Vlh^> batwaan th" ^^a"^'.la ■•■^' ;'ka^ -a::a/ ,t^" A r i,^ ^ r-i^bxa iiFai ti-f oppn-ita ^ta:)re0l 'aa V. a. \M\.^ a u,^- t\.,,:i o, Moriria-'k^raiarii .a-^ fnar;=b A f \-;:.. .b ca a'.tiiiaiitctf beer-^araaii alai Ua^V r^^ -.nxxru ' "ViTiooks ti:?- w-at-r a^ri ill': furthf-r aiajlu, IlOii; IL-^ n;.! b'^a'aU-,^ Of ial-^:an H"'i-' : a.rai inan ♦b .t vantage-pomt ,\n!:-n--iam i • > br:b:.ai.nt inii^'* d. li b^q Qaid nt n e abon *^ a^ - road for five or six iiiiaa-^ i'li ti.a \k ., *- M • a.]! a r. M- lam the bc^n-r". ft 1- a, kifa.i ';! lii.iA laa^ .ibaJii. abni^rsido iJa; N(U"'"h ff'Ailaiai ,4ap a'aiaib 'fa., macadarii -i-av-^ jku j- l--j' im[a„»r^?d ii.tu lj-iai,nd. ndv^r -rr b-r na-va;r jjTopprh- papr, faaaai^-n-b > a-^ .^j,^.' Ma-V' Ja^X- '^^-^ X,:.e llaa-t har' \X', X d out again.^Fort L4»*U, i-U. •^ MONNICKENDAM 125 provement happens before you come by the tree- shaded I'd: . vtr\ ^■\i'iTiiniiiz., X; ' \^ noble church- lb i lies away . X \ .':].: J. ^- a I neat- a(-uDtix\ ijai ahead tower uf H' to the Icdl - ness and - ^ istbatdeaa : baaJr laa > ' • V T , .. . ' J, . ; / , n.,td Xhpr ' A . . a a = . ; , ■ Mi'fiL'-aa ! 1 id '-\' i'^. 1: ' : ! d^. i. : the XX. : J « ia [■'■>j V f hu: 1 .. ■ ■ I ' ..;- - a: ata'bx'X: . ? ciaeauaiaj,,. baX H ar I;.,:, • t-X u, I ill' X X . 5 /. . I . . ' t„ t. ;' • ' < . r a . /b'-a M^aXa^ ixai- •- bariiiiux. X;., x .-.a X. \t a-' • il -:■' X.I- : ; t- ,^4 this, because na X'"i If. a. v\- ^ o a ow, nor ' • 4 s ' * ■* b * a '^\aa _ aa ■ ' " -^ said ^0 . .. ■ .• f-XX JIU-^' ^l > ■ I '-a..i .a: axX.iXi i i % -,\, 126 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND Si, 1 ! f ' h , n 1 IV be of -oTTi-o ^n t!io t-ommunity. till' \j^'"K<>'\h'''':- h:ird b}- rh- Madliuis. Quite ;i wt;n.->trM'l:fii iK)*)!<vnUv wi- --Udb' S t ■» r^ Mv Dwxrh ireeeiN r* ■'•aJi: M I' eu'_ ..v.:;'_ij.'_i ,r-rnr size in ixn lariieiv a tuai'i- 1 tui'i .1 u'^ towns uf ^^'Ouai ^e not ai;-:e >v*:t tii" nK*^ < e i hj^ui. I : •• /. . n . o--- i ■en.>'> l.iie •" ' * r . * • . <1 i ^ ' i i: Ore and a canan ^■^ i: I L -..i Lm L . 1 1 '1 Tht'i'e always is a police- man who Ifj'jks in hi- milino'v ^urt of unifumi an-! rovMra :e{e i -^diev. W eat is wanteu ue-h ee :oee^' 1 e ^u 'i- o pulieetaa!i on inuiiirv 1 3i I i V 1 i Ot t ; ,■ ■= * '■ D' > t, e f- I ; lo C now ■ 2 ■ titndnri. a|iftli«ei. vetii ae- nnnf'(/»'--arv aluav of la V'li'x a'' I ijoX'f de f.^cvcp : vi n f ■ v'. i ■-.- '.. I . pa: L.' 1 . "■ '-J » V -. f ' j "^ 'er uubiuLae^^ \ t . r Tne ri<'ii,„ fjark ii;a-:5ei ui tree- nuie au^ the e^iibci!ikmen,t- looking upon the d there on convey eejM.' Ui i j ail: i e \ f e Ti 1 iiere. acr*">s:- tie' : of Mafketi. With ^ uiteanUii, IS t- f '■ ■ ■ *' i"^ii: L 4, i,. \.. ^ '■ -A. ■ "'•Ti* ■ ' ' V. ^.nsr-., VM •f^.:."'a' 0-1" 5 1 '. ';a-^ - \ ^ ^ Y Jo . 'a ^^uA ? i^^^, ■ U i. r-f ^d$^^a: ■ . t^rucaz^ Co: K-- r^-:^a ,::{.<-^5;-^. ■ ?:/V^'^-W1j;j ^>.< Of r '^ ■OTi';^■.^•..^-^^:=^- f ' i r; ?;ii. i-..0 R ' ■ ■ - ■,>•■ . S Tfl r^f^iO'ei ^ f '^ ft Of / I .« '-K '^ " "^ .^ Sri U-^IKX^^ THE WAAG AND STADHUIS, MONNICKENDAM. f^3 DUTCH WINDOW^SHUTTERS 129 literally ' ' fire-tower. " It is a curious name, employed in Holland ; showing, as our English word '' light- house ' does not, a direct unaltered descent from those olden days when lightiiua^co m taa xlubited not actually lights, but co^H an I oiiiti iui -. On the noble and picturesque tower ui ui^ -t i^ ■^ f^nJIt- ill i:]in, and the chief out. landing feature U tmckendam, there is a clo k which provides ii .ir. times a day all the excitements of a tourna- ment, with none of its dangers. Like ti i irmy displayed by the cathedral clock at Welk, the knights come clashing out and dashing in; but here it is an open-air show, and done to music. The Waag, or weigh-house, that ini \ irable feature 11 CU and is \\ t U :il 1 '^■•"iLiJ dmgs, c^ cue pro- Iip't- lower : a 1 i of a Uvit.'h town, is just below this uM xrqaionally fine buildino^ amon^ Like all others, and indeed, k laost u f i^>iic or private, in Holland, i windi external wooden shutters, ao i tters painted to look roughly like curtains tied back at the middle. At least, that would seem tu have been the original motive, but it has h ■ the practice so long that it has become a convenuun, and is now so little imitative that the original idea might almost l.e overlooked. TIa se shutters are invariably painted in two colours. Sot, as a rule, tulniias chosen by individual taste and fancy, but select r I from the chief tinctures in the heraldic coat-of-arms of the town or tb^ -p-.^n to whom th^ ^' i! iiiig belongs. 130 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND The road out of ii.nnickendam soon becomes a ■■ ! , , .-,r.r,fl rr^r^.r} n WUL^i' i;V VOLENDAM. aiur inaKing twice the distance that cover 1 1 V a straight road, this luuie lendam. luu enter this fishing village r ' r leading to fh- top c t tl- dvke 1,. I: b-comes broad, a> ^^• \ ( ) I t" ♦,.?•'! S i 1 . i the chief, and OlllV, ;i. Ui I t I the - i. ttly laid from ei ' - ■ r.l v i'li brick. ■TO h no other place lu li-..uu.a u^x: Volen- VO LEND AM 131 dam. It is not, like other places, completely brick- bLiih: and indeed almost the only completely brick building is Spaand 1 H i ^ ul : 1, i. i rendezvous (A ih.v a,rJi.^t:> of ever}- Lp..:..h-;s. It is indeed lie uiiO prescribes that the hsherfolk shall contii ^^ ^''-- ' - quai ii uld-world costumes, which, ii^ '^ Lf inj- the ilTo^9 cf the men, at any rate, are easily ^^^^ ^^ ' ^ : ^ e in Holland. But, while it ^■^ ^-■^' bu leadily lindersto-ni that if those wpird P'^^nn T;^. d to be won ^p.iander m :: : just as wt ii ri ( iis hotel, in the prospect that ai u v ild ^* i 'i:^ r (oriit It \ )lendam, I cannot believe O} tnese stuid\ I ! : len would so submit to dictation as to what ii.uj are to wear. The truth of it all "^"^^^'^ - ie between the fact that they like their a icient wavs and find those bas^s^v breeches com- i rrahle aiiu their coloun a u I t pleasing to them- selves, and that they find sitting ti ui tists, on account of them, profitable. Thvve is a considerable fishing-fleet to be seen -1 '^ a rn harbour at week-ends; it is a very ' ' a ^ X wlyn in Cornwall. , so unlike. Ta high dyke runs the •y.:h VL ;... village and the little houses cower uov n on either side, fr.- ha seaward side of the dyke does not, for the most part, give directly upon the ) ■ ^ ' 3 re tiny houses, often built of wood- iruia ^veather-boaxded, in two floors; the 1^2 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 0, or . r.tered bv a wooden bridge, level with ,,^ f... 5^ = be, i ■ f ■ X i^_* T. acordion. I a «. 'v- O LEND AM FISHERMAN. J r'i I n ' i 1 o'' \'< the wu.; r • i t U^c d^.VKj. iL'rA::i. i.i may rv huuse fcei'UiS J.^,.,_-,;|v fond : n but 1 am pleaseH U) ap- pose that n \ ri- dammers, su partial to it, h.:^"-- --■ '"^^ masse y^; t ai : ed thci ' is such a tliing as a gramophone. T' 1. •IV m all highly - civilised and ^M.itnrp,! t . '-munities, n in \- uieiess specta- I u I aiiimal in the T., ^tt...- r.^ r:=>niOS. He L,.hi,t-- i.imself in n^n - ment^: ui.a 'icun'i of cut an i 1 iG and sniuc) ux , , i. I ' Im » a (.InUjZfitl li 1 ■\ n- n in ^^ u*/ i * ■ !nntter> "'"d" \ women to airibow and i 1:^1 i> nut ! n, T J- inli o an.d line- V.U a like '"^ I THOSE TROUSERS 133 ? T'l. jack pinls i i - 4 L nn i > ^ sun d, double-breasted, tightly-buttoned waist* n his jacket with the open lapels, in a light n nal, he will so have it. whether he be a of eighteen years, mr a venerable person of mJ no one will scoff, or object, ii even be 5- i The only persons who object to those jackets are the artists, and they only when inkuts are new. The painters like the pink tty] n d worn. The fishermen in the course of lonor years have come to understand, even thouc^h tliey d m t sympathise, with that ; and they reserve their new and more vivid gear for other than artistic occasions. Not that pink is their only wear. Blue is favoured ; and a very reserved taste will even condescend tM black, in a gaily-striped shirt will perhaps neutralise the black, and great silver buttons will enrich it more than they can the gay hues. And generally a gold clasp will fasten the collar. The tiofhtness of the jacket is completely at variance ^'^'^i f^" r H my character of the trousers. T n ket ^i ^ u-^r:i~.,-r^.. are tight at the waist, but the pleats i^ ' ne waistband expand at once to a sort of world- vvi In roominess. No Volendam fisherman's leg- garments bag at tL^ . lees. It would be unthinkable, nay, nn|)nssible. That chief anxiety of the well- 'J^^'---^l man in towns does not furrow their brows. The only person who ever visited Vol n the object of inducing the shopkeepers ^ line of trouser-stretchers was a 1:1 with / stock a sent there 134 oil ^i The W au tli^ ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND : A ' )ors-erT i 1 by a heartless wag. .f./^rtuiiaif^ man, 6uui.!-j luu^e n^irn.^^;,' ■-, u-^^nncd of sacks, and then conn-^- i ni-H^, Volendam fishermen w. ir these divirlod si Its { Because they are lni-:i''v :i.-...;,.r,d-.1 from the lu^^i^^j ^ rnents that sailors evn iiave worn, i . y wore them, as these ponple in now, because w t with sea-watci oi i- - they do not cling to the leg, and because they give the utmost frccauiii of movement. Even so, the sailors of the navy wear clothes, which, if not now quite so expansive, are i I very wide, and wider as L I they go lower, so that '^ they may be rolled up ^^ to the knees. The ..^ Volendam garments differ A LITTLE BOY OF VOLENDAM. jj^ dctail from thcm, for they contract somewhat at the ankles. The tall fur cap often, but not exclusively, worn, completes this olden costume, which may be noted, exactly the same, in the seventeenth-century pamt- ings of Dut^h artists. No wonder, then, that THE GIRLS' DRESSES 135 V t^«ft^^>^^ painters continue to flock into Volendam in summer ; or that, this being so, the men and the children of the place, and the women too, have become some- what qualified in the course of this artistic traflSLC of i» many years past. They see themselves as art! St > models, equally as fisherfolk ; and the casual visitor will find himself quietly appraised in these categories : as a mere explorer for curiosity, who is no use to them, unless indeed he may be induced to take a boat to Marken ; as a photographer, whom they rather dislike because the snap-shotting camera- man can secretly take pictures of them without their knowing or being paid for it ; or as an artist, valuable to them as one who is expected to pay for sittings. They are too well used to artists and photographers to be either amused or embarrassed when photographed or sketched ; and indeed they not infrequently fall into poses, from sheer force of habit when such strangers appear. The children are like that, too, and are generally in their dress like little men and women, except that the little girls are more gaily dressed than their mothers ; their clothes, the tight little bodice and the full skirt reaching to the ankles, are those rather of women in little, than those of children. Their brightly- coloured and elaborately-flowered old chintzes and cretonnes appeared, in the passing world-wide fashion for those materials in 1921 to indicate that Volendam and especially Marken, where they are much more worn, were aping the modes of the day which 136 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND T -1- 4-1. g-^s of that season look like the purloiners of the loosi rs of their mothers' furniture. I.) u I til ill ■ r w lag^'Fs that -(^t i inaf-fiaL-. '1 i..^' iK * -.. loti£r hciir. are brpoc!-^'! ihu liiiiu boys ujj to seven a I like that; and so, if iAi'^, it w a- ai .. t nse these vil- fn>l;ir.ri, Tinf in nil but in dress- ! *vs, m lb hucal skirts and bt.-r t l;i'ir -t'\-.an h binliday, but uLUl rb*=n 'ana - .a^ i*- iat ritihed as boys only bv the ! at^ li uii liic cap, which the girls' caps hav^ ica. [ suppose the caj- sometimes iia^ ex- char a ! , L it I do nut know what is then dune i i! 1 - 1 fh HA fair \! Tif n ?> r,r 'X^^^' t X ' ^ i tL' f a .■ cirnua: centaj 'endam had better at once take sailor to convey him to Marken. It Hi ! t of bother; and, besides, not to ra aa an would be unreasonable. Not a r Mr! a a was looked upon as cer- ira u- and interesting place, well worth I a-^h anngerou" ton The one thousand b live there were savage exclusives bai commerce with the outer world, a a ad the hay grown on the island, U . \ 1 a\c no use, as they do not keep tu purchase in return, sheer necessaries. , and ail there is no mystery about it, ^ ha^ ^'f en made one — descendants of tliose ! risians who dwelt in the land which was b tin irniption of the sea in the thirteenth a i they remained in their isolation very r( MARKEN ^37 averse from contact with the modern world, so near and yet practically so far removed. Dark A LITTLE GIRL OF MARKEN. tales of rash people who landed on that isle being wurvpfl off it were current. The islanders were not 138 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND like the equally savage and uncultivated people of tl industrial districts in Staffordshire a century >, wiM used r.i .^aA" : ''li-ie's a stranger; iciuc im : hf^ IV. liili : hrink at his li^arf " They did not V hr k fM luse a brick is rather j precious lH ' ^i\ M..iVi:>. n .tiid nui tu uc vva^icd. iU'r'i^^- 'here pave the i ^ r iiu::^ aliU. iliuLiJ Li ifrequent r *• s that lead to the - uh which the houses were built rina]]v f r security against those times when -lie 1 Zt e should inundate the islan. i , .. frequent 1 ;;:■?•. (Strangers were thT-t a* m | with being I :: : ! * the sea ; which was a practical method, an i :: 1 ixui \va^)te material. That was not fn rhaps r niuch ill-will as an exhibition of the old s- ly In-i ij .: I lai ience; but it did not make a visit to Mr por-ukr. We shall, later on, visit Fries- land, v: rt I i eople are yet independent in manner, and ^poak a language of their own, Friesch ; bui I hasten to add that they do not offer you personal viuiuiiuu, ah i aiu indeed quite well-disposed. I thought this ought to be mentioned. Ti that is all a thing of the past. The people of 31 k^n to-day wolcome the stranger. T^f^v knnw thev a' picturesque ; and they know, too, that pit un-n i^^ness is to-day an asset out ui which F * amg is to be made. And they make it. There i^, y^uL by year, a constant succession of tourists who come to Marken and fall in love witn o *'^ old 1 1 . les of every sort which have been heirlooms, ^r^ -nphisticated folk would have you hc^'p^e, f i> THE MARKEN FOLK 139 for centuries, and yet were made the year before it' Hi some industrial centre and sold to the islanders lu ! ir,r rh purpose of catchmg the simple stranger. With tt ii m her eyes some island woman will sell some alleged long-cl li h i f urio ; and on your next visii Viyu ir; -ee the exact like of it, to be sold, with similar tears. Dutch people are singularly touchy about Marken and Vui a lam and their customs and costumes. Indeed, aia nt old-world Dutch costumes r^j'n cus- t !a> in general. A 11 ander — a typical one — v>-iii (I passionately declare that his court r\ i at tia i u 1 a quaint and curious land it is, Thar i e traveller who has been elsewhere, but never ii.uia, will have some wild sort of an idea that all these things ara iiyths, invented by artists; or, it no \( rv least ru lu, that the queer costumes are only stage-properties, so to say, just as are the old Welsh femininr t ues to-day, worn ai faiicy-fairs, or rei ha • 1 on picture-postcards, but not really used n \s . lays. "Rnt in : nothing of the sort. The country regions < Holland are yet rich in all this sort of thing. It i:: iiuUiing of which to be ashamed ; bui lather to be proud of ; and it is not readily to be understood \vh\ re should be this fierce denial or t^ai a.-ich e\ ry tourist ran see to be yet plentifully existent. The reason may be that the typical Hollander is a very up-to-date business sort of person ; well educated and resentful of any implication that all Dutch folk 140 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND -xpense wLu throng tiiere. dress in thn-n rM wnrH ways. No-one, I think, t^-r ujj -ted so much ^^ n is hurt, all the ::aii\v. lie carjii<'t denv \; , .. ^ ^r V..;-:i^ianL and - ' ! ? M ads him to ui tiic \'i^iLur The houses of Marken are all of wood. The church a: 1 the pastorat are the only buildings of stone, and there is ^ at one tree on the island, an anaemic h t' :\ The wooden houses are as tri^e as the piupiu, ioi: they are largely built on piles ^ i in some cases overhang the water, with ramshackle outside balconies. A Marken mf)n may indeed nii^^v :^^"1e the island, but a Marken girl, it is said, never. Ail are fair-complexioned, with - r iw-coloured hair, and mostly with piercing blue eyes. You can identify a man oi JUi i.en anywhere, by his costume ; very like the 11 -eton dress ; consisting of a flat wide- ^ I i iO i Lai, light jacket and cnurmously baggy breeches. N""^ the '' divided-skirt " trousers of the \ endam ii* a, but breeches to the knees showing the stockings from knees downwards. The colour " 'heir dress is generally a sombre black, or brown. Tiiu wuiiiuii iuiin a complete contrast and uc like ^^^^ ^ : : 1 plumage. A richly-flowered cretonne- i ;■. rial is the chief note of it; the whole sur- mounted by a lofty headdress which often appears to consist of a tube of cardboard covered with the same suri ui material, or varied with lace and em- 1)^ idery. There are compromises with this archi- F AS HI ON IN HAIR 141 mandrite kind of headgear, ranging down to a mere cup , but all the women, from girls to grandmothers, wear their hair in the same fashion ; a straight- down fringe over the forehead and a great rope of hnir t ominG" down in front, over tlio shoulders, n J er side. The old dames, who no longer possess lie giuat ropes of hair do by no means abandon this FISHERMEN S HOUSES, MARKEN. iinnniiable Marken fashion. They employ silk in- stead; u i they look extremely giddy old dears, vill hurt a Hollander's feelings to say it, i: ci trustee for truth I cannot help recording ilutt p-pular excursions by steamer from -> r>n just as well patronised I \ the A fl- iers as the} are by my own countrymen ; a ae ^o, because, after all, not so verv many holiday-makers travel to Holland; and it Luu. but, 1 the f \ 142 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND surely would in i i tlie si- tu f d i j aetors tu I if. : r '; handful. -No; M. rken is just Ti< uuu h Li r-i-.'f-biiow for the Lt^hvuiitiunally-clad hnt, '^ ( > ^,^u ,;■: )*■ '< ^^- f]:^ :.U',:'' ii^T. S( .^Tuetimes, ■ ...:...:.,,. u.^ i without fr, cppl- if - wTinn thi ill r-. ! iiomn X'^' i .'\ .^■!,S I? >i (^ tiie xIk-it -lothes to Id-i a ir'-'irn^, or more. . sses are, in fcU;t. t ^.if t'iiov romp Hi r a> h that, bein dltj^so tLuy iiavt^ ( ■( V UiiUx'j.:^. » ' f' bi 1 L ries. So, in I sn aiii!Tji\" ikHlcif' x% V ery -I elaborate nnd ! V "le the HoJ- hat ' tumic-opera ' J J, often thev are. For what co>Tunies ' are j:*- ^■ iu LUitume of com ^ i* b t the ' i : ^ dresses of other countries ? 15 gi:I reprouu ^ A "i" t J . »"< '1 a Vanta'anil. i Wf 1 ' J. ; r J :: iiess is only the unusual and iincon- ji tije convontioTinl r!r<"'=^s of cities were .a.' fdaa./ of the old costumes. a,r,^l ^iii- poaitiim U:- raVeI^^M. iha*- wmi]r| bu ioiiUd comic aiai ugly an V 11. \ i riiijcn XVI li more than two miles from Vr - is Edaria bv tia- *JaaaiiLc ui iiecirh- a mile leaessed from tfa Zia br Zee, along a quiet, tree-shaded canal, EDAM ON THE Y 143 bordered with lawns ; one of the sweetest and most charming scenes in this country where there are liaiiv scenes of beauty. lb 'canal" is the river Y, from which Edam lauk xu name, originally spelt '' Ydam." W hy it has been changed, in the course of time, while u.^: 1 ! dees give a name to Ymuiden, so spelt, is a {alia J. X bevond the competence of the stranger to Wia n we find a canal in Holland that is not a canal, but a river, we do not know the difference, because the Dutch have such a way with them ^^ bar it comes to water that by the time they have quite finished with a river there is nothing in the least wild or untamed, or even amiably vagrant about it. So we have to accept the word of the guide- book via h it tells us that any formal-looking water- way is a river. Thus to work upon Nature is a neces^HV f the country; for to leave a river in lb a a i lu itself would be to have all the sur- ' - ^ soon under water, and the river itself €k Because it is really a river, I suppose, is the reason for the canal at Edam being so deep and so broad and ai Ijcautiful. Now and then a little steamer to the town along it. Quite a pretty and ^^ng scene. Someone on deck blows a iit and lip go the two leaves of the " ophaal " ^ to let it through ; the process beingr repeated ijtiiei bridges on the way. A )' 144 In ON r//£ i^O^I> IN HOLLAND n ^- tho ceiiLie of the little town ui five Hhar rits; one-sixth its former size. I,.. DaM. 11'. lu., ^ivd Lixerc, tmm, a queer, i hrid:j\' a', TOSS wln^'^^li the brick-paved nri Wo"'n u. ■!''-" '"^. i'-'i n:''ri' ai'i* mm IS. ourse, i ill i i 1 •! cheeses, the U. •! ■-i. r T ! ■ 1 roiiiid, Tvi-i familiar in,! Hi A:f\ wh Oi>C t ,ioU Li-lake is ■ r 1 f ' . ! i veilow ones come iMi'M'M; i:^ an* a. -rely •t • ..I-- i' won]:, lialf a la I i 1m: iu i^ ii «- wher^^ wapl: r.i J . ' , • '^ ^ ! ^ » ^ '^ f • M > ! i . cheeses tiath ara iii^:i"a tt ra TlR' t|Licliiita.': se-m.iri^-;- ^^li !'n^ia'>-- at neiy. 1 idi-j '•1 r>- i i 1 ti I r iittlp ?ru (aa.niry-, are Iniiia If u h- open, i!i * I in 'Wa-i-Ja praal 'i'nrui WaV iii! ^ n includii a I ^hap^ n'^^''^' laiam 1 a { Iii ; for Alkmaar lo the an i the cleanest and the - , haifain"^ ^n'^ lior^pa nloriii tho waterway r^.fh- -tM Oa'a: * a''\- tj'\,ir an-restrng >.t;-r-..;i M^-'' * aaal^ ul lLc ^ij\ vaitLMiith l-' ■--■■»••■* ^ ' Jhn a! i there, 1 at ween these houses, a,> auciu Li^u round tneeses are stoia u aa a '^^^ wiudows wiU Very likely be \ I can see the cheeses stacked away i rack?, with the greatest of order and 1 -li^hman 1 1 (6 O O • H O o ■.V d HOORN 147 who from Volendam and Edam proceeds to visit Hoorn, that charming town of some 11,000 inhabi- taiii> [hut it looks larger), also seated on the Zuider Zee. When in ic.ic William Schouten, a native of this town and port, discovered a passage round the ni . I M)utherly point of South America he named it, after his native town, " Cape Hoorn " ; but in the modern spelling few ever suspect that origin ni the name. Looking at the map, it is generally thought that it is descriptive of the horn-like pro- jection of the cape itself. But, curiously enough, IT tin seems to have derived its own name from the horn-cliaped curve of its harbour-mole. Frr m the sea, under any aspect of light, Hoorn looks as romantic as any city of dreams ; its towers and spires rising so delicately and gracefully. There in the foreground is the Water Gate, its high-pitched roof and slender spire less rollicking and rumbus- tious than the usual fantastic imaginings of the old Dutch architects. Nor at close quarters does Hoorn disappoint you. Its streets are full of queer gables with delicately-rendered details and with old shop^ still carrying on the same kind of business they were engaged in three hundred years ago. You may see that it is so by the odd httle carved stone tablets over those shops ; over, for instance, the little cheese-sI c I ; ictured on page 149. By that sculp- tured V (I k you perceive that even in the seventeenth century they were interested in cheeses. Crow- stM I u ^ui, as the Scottish say, '' coibie-stepped '') X 148 t 1 r» f r\ i r- ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND or uHernatively, steeply - pitched roofs ith great red pantiles, form the most ! -tic sky-lines in Hoorn, as the illustration of the l.'-^ Cheese Shop" sufficipnt1v-^v. V, .;s^ ch.,,.. t . you; while the shop-fronts commonly are exrreii, !v lofty in proportion to their width, and in _|3B«ap!«>*"-t«-- MARKET PLACE, HOORN. relation to the rest of the building. Here is colour i - th r iter and curious outline for the draii ; s- man : t - -i^ci with abounding interest for J | ^v - wir) is content merely to observe aiiu hi, ari used, Willi never a thought for transferring his I , V !'( r - !- ^ impressions to canvas or to paper, ROOMIJS 149 as an artist, or by way of writing. The old weigh- liou u in the Market Square is also a fine feature. All over Hoorn, in shop-windows and in those of what look like private houses, you see the word <^-> / f f^ m. >j J; ;^ it is not accommodation ^'r +h- -+ranger antl th^^ I p p c ^>> , " d -::r.es I ' .. a-, I !■ vt > I i : y 11/ offering, :- Oi r:a""^',: |)laces an' -a 1 or ]iiiU:--h= ^1'-., \vL,Ma Inii^."' U..ay, if yuu i aecessurv, fo lie ua haia^ta the -■"■'* - ■■ ■■ th^ r''--:T-r|;, "hr^ ream- iV'/"i w, aiilk, it is v\ '• > \ ' I seek J) hy the go'- iru leave ti^a^ rare iii I, i-n.iii '!Avay a n n>r,inthe*'k-rk *' t-p ^M'prr:ike i t^ 1 !' iitify the ^ ;aists' shops [[.'■' \v:n':^»\v : ia,^ u.e chemist- 'In t/iia.a-.^ T:;a* -h-'a'St's shop 1- \^iueh does not a^^jjiay uXll its ; " A]] the '"gapers" honr a ^i:ry strong likeness to one another. The} aiv; the turbaned head of n ^Toor, wi i -ly upening his mouth, as though ready for pill or potion. But the most eminently-desirable and delightful of these old towns is Enkhuizen. Charming as it is iium any side, I love best to come to it by steamer the other shore. Crossing the thirteen miles fr of the 1 C • t "^ '' H VOu a'. "/ /. z. ■a from Sta.a- !i. :il )lace in 1 1 t 1^ O i . f I i ^:i ;a)ur, a< la* = i r',-' nance, bu ijuaint and ajvely if t 2? OS p a o Q 5 S S (4 n a V . the Zuiderkerke, in the background. nro almost sure to hear the sweet carillons of across the water, for they play not mer I^ 1 .r. it shorter snatches at the quarters. cf L^ Droinmedaris Tower are the most beaut J ill 11 jUaiiJ ; or almost the most beautiful, Lt us say, in fear of reproof and in case some reader has an affection for others. I know not wl u !.. ] lii airs they play, in their thin, tinkling eliimes, IK t Hi like the performances of musical- boxes ; In^ :! . \ bring romance and sentiment, aiil a tca- t r I'S-old beauty into this striving era. The guide-books will tell you that Enkhuizen is iiffprly decayed, that grass grows in its streets, cO i that now not a single fishing-smack enters its li ill' 11. That is very odd; for no grass grows in those well-kept streets ; and urely I was not liii tal.Lii in fancying I saw manv fishing-smacks and other vessels in that harbour. Als« " - U i fint !i 1 a busy railway harbour-station ui £uk- huizen ; and at my hotel there were commercial travellers. Such as they do not pay visits u lead tu\\ ns. But once upon a time Enkhuizen wn^ murh larger. The Enkhuizeners have, however, put ti historic fact away back in the lumber-room of their minds. They realise that they are living not m a town of 40,000 inhabitants, as once this was ; but iii uiie ui 5 uo. But at the same time they know i ^, 154 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND tha-^ the fi^-ire o!" ^jion '^ creeping up towards 9,Oori. In . t • 5 ' ,i -^ rirn-i)t»rini-> HI its unlet »» ^l V , I i i i ^ 4 i,iiV i >. !+,.'.. » \ i ,, i J, • •» •'cli.ii\-~ Clji'.i. -.l J i i ll, I,..,'-. 1 1 I U i i. .i. i ■' i. .) 1 1' ui.;ii ^f nWi'k It ! J , tt. diw.rr- lor uinccj iii-lea-i of ^^M' tia^ iiii-t_' remain'!- a aatp> of tlli^, iaaa/'-furtiii-d av t!iL' li.i'v^'iL. 'jVvf aaii^'h, rhr aTi'ai 1 )r<"!niai','iLi!-is Insvtyr >o i^aatuiv-qM.-; V pr.-'-{'i<-. tais ia-t-aaiaied ""■ "• ' ■■■■'• ■- '54a ; ar-aiaim: :{< it (hn^s 'aaMT nja l)Aln]U"-rn .---i iraiirf-; j^ * 1/ '-../ 1. J J 1 i ti ,! i. ' .i . /„ ' ! i 'C ,11 lii^ a i n s-> t1 ., ! , i 111 ' 1 .«Ji.O, Tiiu b*'a\a*^an ^p'^p •n in i.'»7:;, who!i Aimir::! B.--i >^It,i \ V t a..r tfni (. .. t K I ■n*':- av th.- r.-.-^.'a.'i Maauiiiiitai. Tia'V in prison ^i.r--' \''^ir-. Thev have his -^■^'in .a. la^uiii, iii5 swuid t idur i6ee, in a '•• ill which has seei ■. J aa.M 'laaa NeiliuiiaiiJs government to intern tiu: foriii'/r Crown Prince. T am not greatly con- > know if my term "inteia * is the n whir^h political jurists wuuid |;h.ra?e iia sort of residence ; the effect is a a lae - iaa3, li Jiali'i'o th'/ pbraseolo-y ii,atv possilaa a-: iKAAnvixJAiv ai X ir Xi any rate, there the ex-Crown Praae four years or so: and aii}uiic ahu kid \YipHngen island aa!' not suppose lam .1 choice. There, however, ii .a iM/iOi A. i \)( V 4» J., o TL a a- s- ,. semam. The Dutch are not keenly interested in this guest 111 ira. In fact, they are not iiiiuiciitrii at all. lor-m an I asa * I' , sura ai I o 'T led mildly amused at the idea of anyone curious to see him and his place of retire- a i proposed to go there. Tt is easier to V\ lermgen by boat from Amsterdam than this remote place along the rua I- f the peninsula ; and the good folk u\ i^nkJaazai ii ^h town I purposed to set forth jii a bic) uie 1 \\ 1a riiigen Island were in fact, not quite ^^ a ^ htjao by that method, or what T "'" r -. +■ f - T {"\ ■') CN THE ROAD IN HOLLAND : like. It seem -I to them a tremendous -, i, . i I. . i • 1 A- a iiiat^pr of fact, it is thirty-five miles from Enkhuiz-ii t^.. i'^v/-ijks]nis (pioiiuuiiccd " i-.v'ii.-ltjUiC ''), u Uw' m::n^Kind : tia.t inliiiite-injal V * ike the post-i a u\ T i]-}f 1 1 ri \' \a h ' . . M^'i L J i 1 1, t I, 1 i- i * V A 1 i 1, .. „ • port iV'jm \vi,i i a * a> wiJah iQ abuut t * ! i ( iJ ^■ T; r,. ,■■■. ; « t r,' a r> r ' .1 V Mnkhiiizoii bcgiL ease and smoof '^ , I \\ lia a , ^ai*/ !, ; but Wa/'fi li*^- 1 / .. i »,■»■. H» ■ '■' n - ► i - a , f'; i. / V I I 1 i L A I ^ ' J I \\ i f . r • » , • f, ■ f-t.i, T ( . * r f ^ • a .■ a a t those Ja a L^pa vy g^oori : iai- ar^* ex 'SS, i l-)..l> l'~ a a i I \ ' , i T M 1 i r i -J • ',-' i i 1 J i V ..J ^^^pacKjllS aaii tia,^ 1 luiiciUd a vais ii'nnl a' was fj:id, iraHMi repair, f I ' * ' < ^ 1 liiiUUgh liua >• ' ',..'-!T'^''-!ia ''' '^,* T"! , w Waik^ 4. i -.i . I J i.i. I p'/Pa.a- r >M. Ivvijksluis. ] a' a a e inhabited 1 v a !■ iO a suri ul ia'aiaa in a ao-Hin-a- adaOSt wholly COanniU-d Kcfunnt-J Lnurfdi ; that Lutheran ■ \ Prnte.^tan^ faith. Xnf '-'-■ >, -fh- nar^ taad^i fail to note tnat la; r ui' n : liccause, very oddlv. '/,^7^ i ; aUi ^ • u ^> i a i i \ • . • 1 i i ah 1 i , ^'dall'i)^, d, (it li rila"' on^adia* :.- Dutah 4 "^^ ? s '. I i ! iia ^f^T' a L la a^- r • ' M .a.ia .li-ai I a . . ■ P* I a H . r / a i ( I- • -««, ! t t - .11 I '., IX'. ti-1 .i iiouse- n amazin. V i. aii' a r->t,T V aial L* - ^oarlr a!l the afucaa^ and ccmisey * i I a ' f ! EWIJKSLUIS 157 and licnv on high dykes above the Zuider Zee, and t iian aloD;: r ads below it. After passing the scattered villas 01 \\"i'a-.a ^erwaard, where a kind ui ga!\Jara giihiiili ha:y sprung up in these remotenesses, near the radwav station, you come past Tweeweg to tiiat verv laiiad (i of the picturesque in scenena the levels (d ifia .\a^n raT\aa-'e ra.i aj...^a-- • . • i lands liara.ed a'ua' a former Queer d . a a Russian (araiai haalieoi, wife of Wilhaa. -. ea.r]}* m the ameteenth century. It IS bait treeless country at Ewijksluis, and* the hijjh dvk(^- -dat rait from it e\'en a vaew of th A duzaii h^.,aa-r-h tiie sluice, and nn a'ai ■^L.vl e aea. behiial the ti\ k' 1 1 iirassv (.navt;. I i: I i '"^ t_' ^ tiV ivadikslui^. \ leringen Isi aresque : for it a ^ % a a"' -''f 1 ar tower listance tda- aspect of woudhind>. arai ihe hurch rises stiikiraiv from t \\ >> LaleiialiL,- C thfaii. The -aa b ra-'"^^"T^-]y shallow., aad iI^q laivig- able ahaufad i> ia^auaja '.nil iav Imes of stakes^ eiested with usier laadtats, Arii\ed at Ewijksluis, there is nothing to do but to stare f \ar towards that view of the island, or td-M ^o to the inn. It is a simple place : the natural repeal: of ad who wait the arrival and e.. jwoture of ttie Df^atdHaat. No need to in.aiure ^'oheii at has antivaih for loc w.;] :v.a^ inevitably comes in for his little drrip. The postdwat^ is about the size of a I »■,■-> TV', r- J. k , •< : .». <. -. V. s steam-tuit, .w<..a: \wr^^ larae. It makes fat tLa ui.o c I 158 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND little port. W ]f^rin:i>ii lI.!jh u;-iiai qud}--iae groups, a iJuiic-i.^.H;. a g^..»r ire oils ;;ppnt[ip]o ip lilj'h'^-'W-O' njld ^ih'f^'r, or.p f.f the four pnii-.- Mh *::.^ i-.o-l, dV.,ui- tl:- .irro,'al of tliO b'OO. takf-. pnNO' .•h-J'O''- ^ and e>enrt.- hnn. i ^:,.il- ar-d a ^: ' • lio fri'^^'Uil :MO\t.no^'T tor of til., idaixd, a' I i ir?0"a a-i:ui vV i rtlNOEN HARBOUR. viilag'V. dht: i.atO'r- k- you in thr a v words o' Fiiglish at his com- mand : aijd, eHonj -;ui?fied that you haw^ na political miasion, }av.i too JaUi uond-day, and lenvinn- liHii and departing (run,,,, 'ue polite naiiaiii...n, luueli to THE ISLANDERS 159 4-:, f • ' f .,^ ; , -; 1 J f > , tlie disappeanrrra-ep- o' a i:r(-'i']} 'd a,:.. .<:-.• ^. ,-^ tatafs, hauikt-d = a' a,ny seii:5aliun.;n ^ia\eOf aanfa, r ^^ heek an hnt'oL Ta.ia' '- ^mt one, the J)^^ llaan ; .' : but, like na..sr oLua^s 01)0 = r-fi.i tf a|>piian(,'eS3 ipiu.'ao it has even a k,..-_aAne * 1 « ' i sanide. <:iaao.. ■ \n li(.)!larit,k p^ anti ok'' T !'a a , ■■" pK'tlir^"^-ahe.wo WuTjnoen I da lai I- very soon seen to be n region eoniinuiadai'a m taa extreme. There n> no romance abioit it. Idle village- a^e not preitv, nor d^i the viliagera wf-ar <]uaint K-i--*'nn.'--' ; and the i-iaod. mast be aini0;-t 100:^ on--' p:a«a; m ikaiand wkera tia/re are iio oanaJ^. h is about sin iia^^- ifaoo l-v tliive ara:l a lauf broad, On«^ mio:ht rpeoti a. of a -oanao^"s dav thto'e aiai axna^a^* it-> t-;-rra Oittoe.a-u and n.a\e/r aoain uaal; to -i-t; xa,^ ra...- a. 'I ii*/- j^- e-.KUala..a^ IS '> n many about til roe th on sand. Id.^'^^^e are a inotorearN about, t..-.r,n:ae^aja!-: rJ rW, rx-Crown rVoi''*a Th 1^ ktst 18 a n:J:oa- ii.UL.cir)- but il -auW;^ ahaa.av Bigns of deea\o be^^aase few atrana*-''' the island ano the ik,ia..,aao oaf. -uo'^ any dav, if tk,w' wu.Oit , aiiO „'"■- " I'l'- doikr want, lo^a, do they ■' ^ \ i *■ na tun- po.aeards. I a;0"aease tlo; a^ olai^es most of thern .hnnself diStrd,aitor cd tnoio. daii\- . time there ean aoaree be a!:\ : on tlie 1 ski ml wuu iiuta n^ui v. < , •■ 5 a at' '•*' ' loan .' a • UaO Vifc.K. ^Jfe^ *Vi4!^i. \^' 4--* V i6o ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND 'lOOOc 4- , r ' t^ i. I, V, .^ C I > r. ■ f ,, I -, p '^' . • Wieringen is distinctly not a place \ .t this time it is of interest to any . iiii imagination, because the man who h n^ is there ; and is there because of it. iy, and is now no-one in particular, he German Crown Prince wa^ he^x of the German Empire, and i!ius, would have been German Enu lui, e personages most to be reckon t with [. li.i that war been lost ijj ? e : i certainly, in time to come, have nonage ; not because of his own hy reason of his inherited position, ic least matter that the Kaiser and were little-mindod men in big but t J ' ey had the power. They have t of the world's calculations. There . of these fall* • iiersonages, except neer nonentities ; although that of eat. That of the Kaiser, guarded cxt ater, and he renders himself addi- tionn-^v rnn+emptible by his replies to appeals for r^. r ;: ;:^ t'. families of those who were maimed in rn^ - I vice by whining that his funds are exhausted, iiig picture-postcards of himself as War i-di of help. But the lot of his heir is the worse. He lives on Wieringen all the year r u! 1 without his family, in an ugly little house at ( >o>terland, numbered 10. It was the pastorat ; or, a:: vvt should say, the vicarage. There is a 1.) i >% ci f 1 ', ', ^ i t ; , T * I t ^ \ % ■ ' ■■ . , ' i I Li: . .\ '■ ' I. 4- . ♦• > . ^ i *- '•- LU I i.i - I .L in the fn i L ;. . ' 4 ' ^ i i n, AJh-.. in- beeri tin- pnr-',n: nn V 1 i u t •• ;t it ;i!: ! i! i. i i 1. < rri Duuni, J_. kj J, L^ J THE EX-CROWN PRINCE i6i great grim church near by, and a scattered number of small houses, and a modern farmhn i 5 .r better than ins uwo. T ,..^ = n.| j,^^- I'f - --^^^ -^^-: ee'.. abode of feUen greatness, not * ■ r Its vWTi cie tnii, for it has none, but f >r it- j.f. - , ' * i s ^ ^ " ' ' "* Mv doin^ s^? ^va^^ ^-vnir-Lt:, - . • ,:...:!. i'here eaiiie out, fit ih^^iv I * ^ * - - ir - XL le ' *: ' - a little girl with a t-'V . •• . '^i^ e_ .]' -f"i- ^'^'^'^^ ^^"'^ the farnin.i:i^e , ,1 e ;. -* -{\ iLt. e^euLj rather shup- soiled ah- 1 ■' .' ■ .S-! ^ -e *:.' I Was. tb.: eX'CVowii P:/ . -. 'h n I :• ^Mo :^!.ui:-voK,;ired dachsliiind r..- i- , his arm. Tlj'- : i'^ - * - xK ; ; t - f 1 '1 P T u +■ e .-; •!« BcuWied at rne. Yes/' Sai'l r, '* I'm sketching your house , ar ^ joa iLitttfreJ i ^ ^ He said he V. v4:S He uugiiv iv i..j. -. fe e^ue , but the world is just like f i-i -, t IS- „e-i -w. . > ' he asked. "And whatiBteresl do V'ei III! I ' t '; I T "^ Fl U' *-/ ^V Ji A.^ "O" T vvioit flattering. ^f ^^ ^'^^^^51,^^1 .•[ that time, nuf i *■') t i -I t. ■ •» * . i I . . ^*t yuiu' seivice. »> J t62 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND '■■ I,.:M-/i'-.Ti^ " hp said. " It me back to the 1 ^ . '' w! ! !. .i ir. London.'' ■■ Tl. :,; .,r.; '.hose,- 1 ivp::--1^ v.:'l s :inn meaning, 11. -r..:-..! it ■-uiUiem. Inuced, I tlii^k l.p -^f'^'e h.ani n:-, d)r his gaze was fix-d mpditatiw'y ..^ n = c ,ji.r^;|.,;,-, to vvhere the Sun.i-'-r -i:l \^-u- -!.n,;.ag -^-f /^^ €k.-. i> Illl^ ^=^-. — - OOSTKBT AND. me sea feoii.cwLci^ beyond lav that i - :d -le w];-r- iivo those ^.L^ngnriistS ^-vh^ h;al c^UclUcIud tLf-r- •ireaii.i:' t.a .w-, f • auk, > ^^j h.,j. ^,r..] Id^ ;iT.d !r;.l blOUglit lirn to liii;^ iiuL'.r.r gor; rrusor M,;X of a place. "- Ilnw ..,. Also I pve aw;iV signed pi. 00- '■~:^ r : xiei exereibO cUways. A iiian iiui-t lYiao'> iite'* lie looks lit. IdiL and .a . ^ -; . aodM.jd o-^* over iijny---^,uij u ^ l:nn.in^ .Na.t very hapf)yd,uiikiri,y. Th e biiai^o aro lur 'v^inAi in: h faciiia the eainera. They arn fui pabia-atiuia lii repuse, the iaee is almost ead. ^' ^'''' 'jd^-' hka me here, you know/' he remarked, chakeriajiiyh-^ u:, though he expected to be eoii- tradiiOeak " Xaat i> because joii a*-. .vaij those signed piOtiatrds and distribute d. ^. ho^se^kofa, with voar iiutjnl :-tii'''ui'> a ,m ^i^''- di hn-a ^- W '^ and a card nf -Maau. TuiiftL^'r watii a sealed a J it oa :■ sutcineiit iLcU u. v. ■ O P p iLuac h\' tiie fnil hailck oi ** SCEOPENHA B Vintself. M^av. V. r„ vr- na-^v buy, faize^liar with all ^f■^^ r: }.' na. i ^ .a .ati:. uf laa . talking tn tLe ^ak^.^^^ alti rdtilojiv, 0116 ^larL ^L,(a\> Liia 111 tLt ac • uf iJ.caa.1 i_, .a^ I n d ,.r ih il.^^^ ,mnhy at Hipp(dijiia-L^ t-k lk.aitr ni: ;:| ar<-,ra atar- plac/fa tan, \\-LeL wc itii^Lix/Lur iLcat Ua,. \ aiu^e ^ailL tlub gru-^ leJs tesque-Iooking name is so named after St. Hippoly- tiis, who nlled. accordiri;^ to Lraditiou. tia.^ a^a: wn.- samtly ^.aliai^ of colt-tamer. IT"' wa^ inwrvr^-i hv beina torn to pieces by horses, at Ootria. m Itaia, A,I)^^ 252. Great and ^OiO r|a i -kig is English business. Neariy all tit' I'l ajr'--p'-wi::.i[Yi«:i on \Vka'irii.aai are issued hv a w.-i.^aa-aai ik;jaaa, ar:n. Tile oxakaaAOi Prince ve,i^ ai a-- aaia aa tiie iaid- iiearted c^aLaa'-a ^i.itajii tjf hl< ai]'..,.ii.- a^ :ifi aatac than bv aaaa.ai„; ulse one could lia\'e >aid. iL^ wear iril m a k-jd, calling to his dachshund a- '' >aii'ip-ni: i^.^es, aom." And tiait \va.-s idic last I saw of biin., That v^a-) }<-^r>'-i exile, sick of weary W;^aea ■:-. speaks Eaaeidi ptakjctiaa and looks vera kn'!-- aa- a Ueraiaia N^r aa-s le/ hy>]: ^^r -i\. =^ nir' uie an pressuai of btaaa de^ silly a^e■-^ai ^a' die caricatart^s, with the haratiria 1 ['> and sheepish kaok of ida^-^r we are asi{-d r,. believe in. On the contrary. • irnpressaai i. i \iv: he is a far uiorc able aaia thaa t, . elerer fool an! essentially little person a a Th • ex C 1 o rn fa . ,Q jg ^ well-set-up, athlet.. . . . j mara who has th- rp^^arance of being th man he has poa^>ra ia aa,:.: 1. He dresses . . .^ ridinadart-ada:a, white w.ee;.--i sweater, aai haaa-r garters. The only Gernaat- ha/'ka'-^ item t: laa dat- topped,, peaked ^-^ap. One migh.r alaea-r' ^ ' '^ hi ona'=^ a*eir" ^o be sorry, even for hu,.., ea^aea aaa'.- Lraai aaathn,i£^ '^ -^Dort"^- , ., \r. 5 ix-^ i66 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ^ -i 1 m life, in this iiiii rdctive place. The K.tve four:'] '-^ !-.nishmeiH more ■-^' v.-e I'ri.iisj iur i ; ( i i I )■ b liiiir^ — the i^Ki: ■ J, j^ ' / V i. 4 4 1 J -. Ki.;:^ Jit' aiu bciiig wiULeii, the last days ;i rr^poQqof] po;ist^]ine of ! rJ k ^ .-\. \^. i . iKr : f ■■ ! * *. s. 4. * • - - '- 1 L i X .^ 1 ' i i< 't n.:i }\ ( tt t ; Bufku:::, -li.i-t Ail 1 ■ 1 ] -. I!' A\' i ' »•"! ;i 1 h :j; ,1 ix 1 ! f i • i rup r*;*'r*--'_ '.' I he C' " '/JlU.il ' *.i-t" ^ j ' ' ■ ' t'>^ 1'!- b* t WlM'Tl lil^Mll . iTs; lac l-'i^LC::; :'! _ t . and the ^re the sea hv"'^-' through i!i 1™"'!'. converting what wa- nr — in irreat Frisian lake, Fle\M, mi i .lu inland sea fii ^'V.ni^ow.. ran ho stormy and t-\'* n ! into the sundered Wbj^l IbrxcoiaiiU. :3ij^ nv dr A r r •]:>■ Z T Z r^cndering its waters h r mor- t.:..in l)racki-h and encouraging a gro-::. \\" 1 1 : (i :i i ■ft . f- r,r t', , \ ! j ■■o- f>: j-.a^t a!:'i o V\ UtJ'-i V\ I, 111 lie of " pampus, >> ThnQ in rH£: ZUIDER ZEE 167 f : if ^ 1!, ' ; t its shallower parts to be vigorously kept cleared away. The Zuider Zee is thus, although apt to be on occasion a turbulent water (eleven people were drowa'-l on \t from a steamship at Zwtern uxtreiuiiya WaS, tht ruiitinued growth in tia..^ size of slaa-, obliged, if it would keep its trade in face of the com- petition a i Rotterdam, to construct the two ship- canals to iia Helder and to Ymuiden, completed reso uvxAv m 1825 and 1876, and since then both de-p -a-d aiid wid'Hi^d. The ar a of this sea is 1932 square miles. From north tn ;uiith it is 86 miles lonir ; and vi miles n^rid froai -,1:4 to west at its ar'-ii^',-^! breadth, tiie whole comprising about 1,i:3u,jjJ aert% A large prir^ba'^ nf fh"s great expanse wa- once laaai, feitbi" .iail aaau many villages, a'i drriwia'd iia the I, i _, ^ irtvasioTi --^ : iie sea in \'2^'l, Tht ' ' * Dutch people for reclaiming land genius 1 i-. *^ 'J looked towards recoverins: much of this bv ta ib la the sea-entrance and draining. This began tl> the foiaii nf some deeply-consider ^i schemes, u at. the close of the XaaHjieonic war^ and tJi-' growth of commerce and increase m I'lh- - ze of ships. It b. came evident that the Zuidi r Zee was no loncrer f f ranch economic use. For that to be evident ^^ as, I -I i68 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND in virw of Oi D itch character, the first step towa^ Is coM-idHniij Hi- alM.lition ui it. iii'' h-r^.- r^':i ui fi 1 n rr t t th'"^ inr- hr'twrT.?-; I^Jj^g i-la!:' 1 ,^ i . : i - li'^\''T hw: A'.fiT: '"- Li" T' ::.^-^ r-.K 6^-rioii?iT been considfica , lur alil.uu^-ii th- tuui.^i comiriLi to Ilroi.iiiO i^'.' -tonnnT oo -^-ir.'^ rnho :-.or!;0:r'^ day may bo tnnati'5 for Uowt:' wojrns amounttaJ before tho Uj.ai War of inJ4-IH. wlien prna-s were low. to £2teL. »/ I aO:^ E'U I ■ i !ci^' CO ^ " ... r .i[ Oral o- os_> ., verv sound * '■' '■'' nv wen established that tnat looa -shortage was caused by tiie export h It I 170 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND iiicts to Germany; d 1 by the same r('asn!ii!i,:. SdV ifi ;■ t *■ ^ p rir^ ', I- i A >—■ v/ O were to i C C 111 , [JaLcii iariii wuai'i iii the lir--t th'' more t^i >nTi minimum r .1 n.T Tl' '"1 V4 ^^ i , 1 ' < 1 ■« i i ! ,_ , L ;i3-C0n- ! * for ];,. rrnirse of these Halt f] 7 ]0 >P;l!ir>r!"^ « iH- :.i I '! . e will ' !! and ^;1 liii: suriiptioru Nu, th^'^" ar- n^ recL,uiiiiii-r tU" Zaaa Ui coursta it ]> '-V b' d'^^t^')y^■J^ uaa '.fiKiaiiZf'U vvaii. a)-*.' IV- '^ .1 \'uieiid.a!n's nur^'^'r i-xi^-a-!]--. A bret'ciii'S waii na^^'a uu rcu.^;uii iui aXi^ixiia,, tliai tilt' !iiai::>t, laa a 1*11 a ii riK~ lira-- ^.1 tia*-- part- will ppopir* wiii ri,a>-.' to be coia^ thera Will f't !):an'*— lie liic tuuri^l a traveller, then, to make acquain- survivals while there is yet time. 1 f I, I " ; i a -- '11 • i a'. I last'ii !',. 1 X .,.»... ^ ' .-a ■ i, a \\ S_4. -i. V O. ^^ is It I \ t ' -^ XIX III Laxbix -, VO 11 "':•',: i. l^i > ciii*..*. ti 1 aii '»> ^'rom Enkhuizen, you find -lation. a lid, for ST A VOREN 171 ax >T)aa! ]] the rest, a very modern village of one street, la quiet, with a canal alonsr the wide empty Stavoren, in its present I'Uise, \> a jHaaa u{ \a>>t«,Tiiava There is not even a (■ijiirch iAd or naw, iHil*:'^^ a >mail undistingiiJ-a.a(-i iittle liall nun" l)e so (■oiiSalf/rrd. You wo-'a tJaal,, Stavorrii hixd no past. Bu: 11 iia>. It is, in .iu.ai, H.i; (a„^Mda::a, dead tajwii of tiit^ Zuaaar Zee; so d-,aL and t^u iuug binca, that the Luida' LciX been lost. lliai \va= a-^ the opening of trie tfiirteeiiifi cennirv, :^'-vrH i^ai^di'd years ago. Stavoreii was t!a:ii a ur^aii Durr of Friesland. There the proaaa ilaa: iiio^a-aident country had a palni-x-, r vvas gradual]}- uij>\i\.iiAvd Ivy ^allJi and ^u tia.* iitterlv decayed. There i- no rrart' *>! jt. "^and^i'anks still extend m front of ti.a Staaojaai i.i}a The chief of thera is tha " Vrvuwvu- V. ! use name embodies an ai ; - .: (it I Liat i 1 1 1 1 I piaai a I '/ ■ i ! i i ! fl V* >■■'=, ^ ? /"4 J"; .-, 1 St*erV lu ixfiU^^ \V;i(lL. «. A Wish to ) 1,1 a VI' Ih* 1 i^' ^' i [^ ■ "^ « '''V 1 aii'l n J; jTKUi discretion, and caria'^ hark, ,aa,.urd.:ea tr^ with a cariio of whf..* frrmi !,)d:iiz;a\ Ti:'..* tait* tiitai 1 a i i ' Mi :■• w « d i . ,. I i i '- i '. I . - " ^ ^ i i ^.' 1 : i . .1- I, f ^r.:. V 1 was a \vi,s a ov pues on tu sa\' thai tia the wliear tu bt:^ thr'/wn i,,v^-^rh>h,, niouth, where v: -|a-=.at>'0 .md : sanddiank ; time neirij ai'-a Divnu* lairse fur wu-aaa " la-. i Hi the world." I perceive t!i:i^- anofh-r vrT-irei moral tale dr?(dar-- la.a 'U>' I which niav expiaicu i-.a thnifrs. And a iiarl'-ar^ ' » >fi \ itt»* '^i i a I ciC ^ . lU harbuur-ansiUtia Th^' irnrn^'dait^-^ neighbourhood of StavAr-^-i * eni.ra-v of uiten\-t :]^ n..a place itself, but >'"^^^n c^ina^ und^T laa.:^ I*^^ of the dykes into fi (Jl'Al'ii-i •lariMiur- Ch'-. frO "Xi/use, a a tia'-** a-ar ui I o-dav, und. ou:--- u would Jiavr ^uru^ahiaa ettisomnfr ^ ire iO«%n(an L J. i. i- ' J \ l ^ <-i. i 1 i A i i i i ■. ',- ^, ■ 4 .'*■> *- t -' ..4. T iVCC) U . J i ine paii> ^. ., ,4 ' ' i. ■■.,_.. ^ - • ^ . i - w ■ 1 ^ » ■ . .,., a 1 i i>r n till . W X. C A~i %»■■ *— ' N-" * I & .--«e:f-:r . m m H s e 6 3 I ffl Il ,! HINDELOOPE]^ 175 i:l\<.-il 1 one always to be guarded against. l)u-xn HpIow, on the sands of ih- Ziiidi-r Zee. voii pt>rct'ivt: hov rh/ >teps i-edioe ui' to tiit^ '" Bad H^e'-i , a tiijr \\hi>ii s^opih.s fea.rfiin\'^ inipri)iiiibiiiti, unless you kieoi fe:o it n-eauc the " B^ith " hotel. hAtei IviiuWiiiiJ as leiirh. there is ahee\e;, 10 aii Kf:ea:ehman, a |h--a-it;t ir^'oeeal n;e\a.er abesit the ^^-?na. as th*a'i/ I- af.H:art that nf the sa\-eral "Dam '' ■'^*''^hs in [h^haiifh Aa;.d at >^eht^veryiiiieii. tas* B^-ghisTi as:d dhaafasat a aa,u Scarborough of Ih^Yinj-l^ iih n.-ned jhtu niaa i^: i< a faoh'raat asv tia see .;n iii- aa^.d^: a a ■■ eai dyke:^_ de'fpnnad, dv theiii if '^^ ^: ' / .,. .. \ .. -.^ r!p. :• : -^a,:^, |,,;.^, , ^: t^ tfte * *aa^^* a <' I ■ • . , -a d -"'•' * a* r-T ' - ' . 11.(4 !. * i i t a a a a^ ciwav. dh-r-a hu\ve\eis j-^ tha ijiaat' ( hiircdi ; and ^^^''^''' ^">^- i^- -na.-' Stadhiiis. or Tsaui Idad. -oatd. its ^'^■■•''' l-^ure ai .i i,ui, uutbide, tiuumiiy ao ariiajis,ai. m\ \ ' J 176 ^ A f HE ROAD :.\ nniLAND ^m arms — a deer, N:'apin^ shield with the Hinaeloope —a Dathetie relic of an oid dignity. '' She 13 the Town llouae," mui a n.^ilenaan, who, like every Dutchman with a little EnizH^h at command, was eager to show his learning. He pulled a dried herring uut of a ca,pncinus poeket, and bread and unions out uf another. an.d ^nunched them with a tremenduus relish. " 1 am m. lenglatid/ he eontmued, between tremendous bite^, ■• i urn m London many year, and I spike the Engel.eln_a3 1- ■' ^i-^-or^ '' TC.f i< tfiP siinerstition which an Lnseiscnman. luai i^ uxe . .4, ,. ^..-^i^^-^^^y^^ all Hollanders who have a few wor-1:^ uf Engn^ii c II (' T 1 s n . I left him to his convietions and entered the clniich. The koster— or ih: kur.tere:^se--.hir it Wa:^ a wuman— Wcis expecting tni:, and the eu^^u-^nam^ tV-'....; -v.- cents, without which fee no Huu^e uf i^vd h ^ptm untu vou m this cuuntrv. where e\-en the hmnuh- d klt.e'is sought ' beaia this fervent exhurtatiun 5 A 14. iJ With miieh scar C •" H J . Das heeren wce-.rd ilet aandaeht Kornt daciftnt* Hi Als hmden iuei»: ■'I t ■ »■■' Which 1^ to to cume heart hv and witt tl Mf fliA \^' n r* Mr- ^ » iTl I i^'aI nivt.' 1 1 , . 4 .< ■ i w IS, you see, a j. tne pia^ M=r:Oe = t ■ ' :' ■ i HINDELOOPEN vc nerer observed anv 177 loopen. But T ],d\ no niatter fiuw pjous leaping like the hmd tu chnrdi. Cl( C Ci I". ! Ci f ZJ ^ OIJi D00n%v-\Y AT "TNDELuOPEN, or an\-vhere. for any pii!-|)ose. It tins staid ktcd. where VAOwnnviiT's are. > more delihtcaft^. 178 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND like that n'U:^, a lid Th^ interior nf TTindeloopen SHVt^rpIv dealt witii m tti.* way uf rmMti!y-M,i|.pra^>tai ornaiiieiit. And. al^^.,^ lika mu^t iJutili cliurriias. U^ i. ke|-^t loekeci, Aiiiiu>t al\\ai\-> yuii inu^^t ^.ta-k idii- '• kn>ter;' the ciistCHiiari or >ext(>!K tu come aiid, iiii- lurk It and receive tweiitydive (a^nts : and tlien y-au Will imd, after >aniplinu a uond many elairehea tiiat it ia caily exceptieaiaiiv they do luA. exhibit internaiiy preci>eiy the >anie features ; h:dty eyiindneal coliann.^' which, h,ke e\-ery utlier {aiit, are whata-^ wa-hed to a dazzhng whiteness : a great bare nave. and m the ctiuir nr eh.aneeh where we wouhl exiuaa- the altar tn bta no altar, Icit steals Ic-r a |)art of the eonlrre^atio^n ni-ttaid. 1 tait ]> a typiaaa Duteh lieOjrrned hliurrn practuan Iha; ehiuv-hes arte in fact, ratlief ni^re preach,inu-iaui- tkui eiiurchr-. 1 d-j nor think there i^ fnurli cfitlmsiasm about rhua-.dinaniia herw It d a. t^iho. ■\\ha:n the Dntek ...riired at 'jnee then.' -pintuai and natic-nai Hi- dependerua-- thev irrt-w tideract. aicd a iittit- rn'j.rt.a liuhaii-l taught reiicitius tehnatiMn t'c tha wrma. Yon inav pn.dea-^ aad ra)-.:rvf b^av. as ahnu^t eci- vua^re eh'^e neiWaiiaa':a a,C;c !'i/iiaa)n-'^- e'-/ii, vi a lancy aort n;r tiane at a!! : aiai Iin-^-iaia eaOaa 'Ov' Vols or tht^ nther. to intrnVaf^ Ba;^ ]h^\l\^.d wa.- ta=;^ iir-t n,. he >o \il'onoro.iLO'oi. Aiu:v :.,\\. iio- c:-ii^.st rrkjtua in !IodaaI^i . t he mnat iiiten-e ru!a.\ivn aaa, .;. iL.it ui iLe na.c..in. ui u-unno mo waters aait. II I* V i HINDELOOPEN CHUECH AND STADlfUK. THE DECAYED TOWNS i8i H - ' ? ^ ? ' w the sea-level this is readily to be liiUii:f" ima as we are in tlieir aiiri.e^u glories, w'l' luaal ra-a re;:!-t'r tlaar deeiiiie, ior -a o tinib eoiild we iiiaj [■feseriaMi, tlaMr areliitecture and ) are laat dead, rwr sleeping, and oreaiiarg of tiaar .irteat past, "^peakincr <'*i' t^aaii uaaeralha thrv aia^ neitlaw lejur, our shabhia ^^ v^'U woaia and Nhabbmess aial povert\a aa. ..mm.; and iiial rfitaai ataiwinit!}- in unv th-U arMi raaiahwis aiai ineriaisiTwr modtaai cirv : -aia Anisteraaa: -:• liotteoiaia,. o. say . anptwaxi h^^aw-wa. 'far ouira a.an^ ■ ^ ■ are in slumber; or, t= change the tigure, they are like some busy man who, at the close of a ^^iieiiuous career, la taking his wad' war^a d. rest. ^^ ^' a to which we now come, a place ^ p^ ^^ -^^ g^Jie in decay, but just a sequestered village, you find a dignified square with an enormous etarcii la oar and a weigh-house, and a stadhuis bearing the arms of the '' State of Workum." That phrase gives the key to the olden standing of these individualistic towns : scarcely less than that of all-sufficing little states. Tt i> It m very long ago, in the historic sense, that thes places still kept a considerable trade, l82 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND S much may be read in their architecture. Ti the (iu-;t stnt'— i.t Wi^rkxiui. a,-^ of RolRward, tl^-ru 1- a uTi'iit (hul (icttiiiU fr^-'fn tin- midui^^ ;i!i'i Jat^-r ■\'i'ar> of the ('iLrhteeiitt! rt'iitun' ; the cliaracterjstii: exiiberaiit and r'aHakini: fl*'-aiii and deaorauon of the rococo and icirofiua sort, whirli ifiVio. \-uii tlie huniorniis ioi[U'e»ifui tiait the lo»akjtd)p!f-coritana'd and iiajividu.d. wara iic.t raily per<;an> in hfuHand. \>in ai-n tiod^-- and anrpnra ! aa:<. wa- naiv find aLT^afi 11= th; ^ ahafvh -: \\.a-;.a,nn. bu thc\- JiV<-d th^ir livi-. iir] -<) Hi*o- di^-d and wara cnn:n>ra'nt!v a.in'aM! to Uaar ij!'a\t-. lirfc aarh trad^' !aai it- t^v.-i-sive la, -a alid hr-rr^ xli^^v a !'- VtC-^ aaiuiaJK' ^11:^1 r],i\)i»r:iU-\v Oaaa.-d wH h t ia' (.rjaJrC":- of t!a-a- TF\ah^-., la*- ih.a'k Oiil t n -- hin!\' \V:i.^ a:ir^a.'d -a; a. h;^''- n:ano-J wa-K h.aianta- aoat iilWll ,i,t:d hH!•-^^-!:! <»\- I Tha rjfOtaa.uIb i)a\\":5 aiat iKans ar;d ^■■'ar-pa--*'- a,d 'v* a'tiseci hi- ' --apn f -^ - ■ ■ and -n id wath tdiC M'a in.to a reanni very dilfarant iif.an dauth Iloihiiiii. It is the n.a.iari;r oi the Frie^jana niares, -where the canals antl la vta^-s broa.deii out iiitr* vaat h,ikes. ahva,.}'s ahaJkjw Ijut }a'd sea.dike- llwv nre aaihsti bv stran;io vaiiietiea of (a-aft ;-— djalka and pidains, and others witii the odd'Wt oi technu,'al nan/tcs, :ajnsurtin^; n.owadavs witli ni^.,atir- Inirges buid '•! ir>> o.J ^!ii: iv^-apinj ,1 u^^jj itad -.If ..aas'd V a a in-- ^'-^ - ■ ■ ^" of tlie OiO k.:< .,, |.,..,.<-u r,.:j I,..' ..;. • ^a.i: aohjiii's. and n.a .- a •* -a en > -f.*.,. ; tnoa • haroes. uo.. ^ \*,i.| ,\'.j ;., {. iCm j-anie >a jn. * jp ■ t fait idd, .10 ' .. w - ' ^" a. p.,. : Pis rPph -a 'ii-Oi. t »o p> o,o.^,.,,a w. Cajiiturw- app, wi,rpi lh,)i[a!id wa- in ilu' n>ivaront <''f 'iid, siafai^^sa eaeoiii-alaon. anhi nra-.ie^' aa- ,^-' p: ■^- ^^'h.en tha Dairh ^wviv jp ajji-ijiae ui our'M'Kaw fa most af nhe^e ■ ; w ■ ' \. - • .• , t » e, Xtafdieriand- : - , ». ^ w .u_._.o nhisxaa- '^■''■^^■^- -^' = -' = a* ' : ^'p commerce, society, iUid aJ^ ^^i^' ^'^-' ' ■ -.We may ahuu^^ d-aswr each ui iiiaic iu\\i:y Lu dctaa' been a se]a-,opa^:ajit:»' umt, an independent community, own p n le i84 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND - o ^ - country in general. This was an (^r(]oT of iLm-r- in^nrnrl lar^rlv bv the nntural ^, * ^ i 1 ; 1 *■ ' ^ j «'.M rr^n ! rii N rui '.iT If 't 1 ; 1 ^^v the i ' ! < I I I I i ^f -aril d that in LUiliC '^f I lit t P ari'i f : i ! i 1 *. 1 ' 6 * t " t r '}■■->■ >' n til fMiglish tou i fie in '.Si I J \ <■ 4. i i " 1 1 • ' ■ ' ' I • • • (AUvT pllbiic bunOingS, IL i;5 llUf, rar ce any one \ ■|in-:;5PQc:p:;; Hr^' '"]Vlr nf-i',^ ^'c* q. Pi - n :i I let! hp-iru ■^ ' 1 . ! , * f p^ smaller continent ai luwns — o ' J irpose. n ; I •! -11, imes, "5 , ■ ' H i :-3 ^^-^'i' ^i'- ^^Trar r^o-t, aiid liul oiLuii Willi aul -u^r^'v.^,, ha.v.-^ UiiprnTomrn-i^^ >H^r.n p:a:iG which have >ome --I't .-I ■i:ap:\',- ^'^^ tj;,..,, .iivfi,^ of ours ; illVv C I X i ■ i ^ ! V a ■ II''' }-:i!nj . i. ifi ria- "r f 1 (:t|>pi ..^ita >l hi']: r'lf. ,. f i ,1 , u A' I',. pprifro Pn^ hpp|T va-^ xaonse and much cUijuate liiii Ui di;v shaptj -* naU; n • jh f.f Birmingham is, Ha- pniat' instance. ri. Hi lias same 'ii-^rict of Frieshml, .•;r I T . i , t- 'let on a house ; ' / s i ■ u >> rTajUD ^p. jj\ a ') \ I a »> Thn onifijial Ml pk. -i^illP" ••'' , V J'~ z^ [?:Tnantrvrfiaa'' ' y'. '!»»" 3'PC r •'''I' 'Pjn_rr :*{*' ' * •, hi ■" ^ilBi -• a' ' ^ fc,,***^ V "1 1 ^i*' ,^.....^. g BO LS WARD 187 house let term a H' :„1 i i . ciiariiiJh!j ..'■ paved -Trt-i> and a H!.-:ii-. ' : BoiswarJ ri.:,„ r, evidently by the style of find a brick- rlean, _"_l a >v4 S -i, ■^T-r^s. ^ A CAN A". >TR£LT, BuLSWARD. but its ' cientiy p! :- ornate and : * . r t declares tli * if, indeed, , it is perfectly h..;.. v and -affi- ?1li«'^ ^viiich ID Hi) a ^ 1 V ' . ! . » ' * 4 \e ' . f 4 ; . i88 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND of a former mTatn^s?, Ilio Sauihua-^ w;i^ IjuH'' ai a soiii»nvh,it later [>ta-i-a, lUil^ln. ^ina r- m ifie FleiJii>h Viinetv of Kenaissniiro arianti^rrnfr;*. ha;!^ (as ot course lai fLoidriO) '.a" laru-: - riMi bnt.k, witii stone spanaaiv u,-fa. Ta*.at-' is un fafi^r I\rriai>Suau"e l)iii'fa]!;a iii Vrio^l.iiid >f» iir:o. j'hc sta'cix' -tairs leaajria aa !(■» ta^ iaaiorice liaaii t . c street are tia,aaed av i'\,i\>nr:it- enihola-li-ti writi. iMa-e^,-.! -,a-\a>-' i later st}1a. Jn ana ta«ar aiaa'r.,s and liie (e_naoas r-^taa^<'a>t= fKiia-trr-. ;. \\i>r\{ of te^ FOfa H'oj p(-TU)(L It •< aaafa!" f^ iaNiaa-o these n^oa.eat-f hajif--. tir.-~iaa*-'i -^ daiiaUaa wai; Th*'U' ren.arkaJia.' -atva- fitter-;, l-ivaia wah^a-o^.d te.» ^'•i^ioona- ^a aa oavar-.ar pM^, ;;:,;; ..t^ well in ad Uio:-.a ^"Oiirs nt rhtar i'Xe^aaa.a'. i rern^nid-r Bnl-wsird -- ra:at-ed,irh" a'ell because of >evera! intaiiata tiaa-- ilm'^. haas- iHaiaaa tu do Willi a. red aa re tare (a' antiaaira/>. dha. u;:- ra.^ 'ael.t of a man mi tha -tr.^ra wjta aii irraavan.i LaiTuw. T saw liirn thrMa.ad! idir aantiosv nf tht^ warm room td en hor-d \\aM"a•^■ f \w- takina: '^ ^■'Ui^ rariv >afwd'- and !e-^ ,a! ^aa' iro,. Aaid ^oaaa '-a-'la -aaaa-!' and jczlisid.ij daaeea dcua iiul, It as.m n,ow extrara^/iv en]d^ wi^a -onietlaaa like snow iaidna, N^stiiam >^' « a: ;. i a ♦ iiliked 1 i xng ire-erearn, flee; })> igo ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND the t < :,r n I S ? f ! - f ! I C> t J. i 1 4 I i IjI'I'-XIQ r f '> f uas the season -hjr'Q and Ip'i^n^ rif:^i 111- l'.,ir,: Ul I ill' plo- I iu; 1 1 1 I * \,„. ' 1, p^^OI'iit' w *■ ^ -, "Y* ■■** ' J } -^ I '•'■r remenil ?> ]r]rr f^ni=:\\',< has i ) i ■. '^ . i 1 i .1 rMi\- ^ )i i/i/Uf--^p, m vT : t 1 I fjiti ', 1- ' "^ tit s t i f ^ i i, ! .^ C*. iid .:-fc:i.^ '.' ! -; I ^1 't •! 1 ?■ ^ i ♦ ui^v were 1 I silence ; pf [ eches '') and > .- 1 II iU^rpret 'L means away, ii timy h;.. they COlliii ha\'e f' i^'i-eks are nf a liappmci;:^ in.u u^'iK'^^ r-ofip a n Ii vV! had beei I 5 « - --7 - a,l,a I r T'l !' i ^ \ * ii> ? M ' ; j \\ i I 4. ^ . i . '! J-^ ■! J.* dii'M. 1 ( I , : ; ~'l !.;« to proceed r I k, '--^ ek. «jli-i'I:' .Hid ':''-: on itself as L 1 i '. ' li i 1 ? ..i i » . Ul L * i i L L.j '-. I, '_' Li i i I ; ■ !..'•■ 1 J ; i * ' ' f i i ^ * ! * f : t i ■ ' , ■.■•fit some and Sneek region SNEEK IQI I; X a : i ; I ) ! i I = » i 1 i t; 1 I i'l' T'C 'i; s ? I r ve a paradise for a frequenter, for iu the Norfolk Broads. Mere is joined f>y canals, and it is easier to go from place by sailing-boat than it is lu travel ne of the principal naviga- WATER-POORT, SNEEK. tions, and on the Sneeker Mere, is a busy little town. Its name sounds unpleasant to the English ear, }i)u pronounce it phonetically, or in the It >tili keeps OIK' of the V\ ii tiiiiiiiier- '' Sniik .:i * I i.i many pirturesuiit- ^ s ■^-h. %.. V' , itself 192 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND i5 di-apijiniiunu'. nirgely Ducau^t' wi- 30on, travelling iil t i I i i- ' t 5 ' ^ t ■! - J , t dp nl nf ,! f ! , in; i ! r r ? p|, > t' ' irt ^f rile . ^ f » 'U' ; ?■ . 1 ' 1 ,r;nr Hi + r » ' } ': i>iii'.^ r • t \ ' I » 1 1 f I ■^ t h '' ^ r j n "I : 1 i ■ I ! U ■ 1 L! I '\' Hi'';! t \\ I t v\ lI:'i i.'i ing uiiUA ii'sW^ lae rollick- v-fmrr^ without the nhl ta-n^ ; and I bey f xtraordinary t xh 1 m n .1 arables with open OiaV" Ml; ul I) illars Liia L *la!iir„ ana d^^-a'anxti swags that seeia 1(1 iia\a 1m uu either ae designs of ciiildren nr the \'isinn> « f ;aa"'^^ar;aa''^ In I ad ii jiH Miaek is remarkable for nothing. A "bri^l'-pavar! road. Tvitli an nvoniif^ for na.--" a^f I a -a villages without speciai a re J t ■ ' and alitor- rdeii 4-4. I i V, i. T- '*- fTT-rp wi'l "h^ "^nn^d. oa'^^^ ni the a Tirana .1 ;>ubui'b ui -^uiiiC :,>ar~- :•• '-a-^tahan a, laa* otherwise liul ^t[■lkiIa/. l:iat if }'uU Wid Uava lUc La^i'-X.'' ^a-- Spara tiia lun^! I^jdd^ iLaa-a/,a/ {jriw^^'ru Ma,;rk aaa quear old place on tho road fo nowLeic bui lu ilc^elf, T r,ari already referred to in these pages. „.{ a ;-, \h priUl " GrOUW," but it •_::> liUl r, t?.^ a-wr iiicf that ia -a^^^ffh, Tfi a>ViTi[^ a Frinc;- a=: ha; '^ 1 lan-.ir, " -'^a aou rpf n^ near the InajS {a-.;itaata.;t,ti')ii as ai Ka^lishmaii t.i d-a aaid \"'-;. i: you piaaa.aiiicu il u^ i.,t.- u ti V lU it, ii-'- wUi a" ijiii'i' i V i I Mj---i ! I t . : 1• > ■' ■ , I t • f~ L i. }^' ...i. "■'-- ^ - u'ju. '-1. STAIBCABE TO THB STADHUIS, BOLSWABD. . <"■<■«• WxiUIV. ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND -^95 you will be answered '' Ik kan het niet begrijpen," which means, literally, '' I can't grasp it/' Grouw stands on a mere, not interesting in itself, but forming a charming picture from the water. XXI Friesland, with one exception, is not that part of the Netherlands where you will find quaint costumes. That one exception, an astonishing one f ilitj -trano^er, is the old fashion, still greatly f iJowoil by the middle-aged and older worn f u \ illao^e and peasant class, of wearing the ooryzer, (H J ; ) fi heiniet. This h in the nature of a skull- 12 in t ie of thin plates of gold and fitting exactly to tiie back of the head and coming almost to the luicli^-a*]. To wear this ancient covering it is necessary i.^ the hair to be cut close. That is the day u i 16 WijVl dresse :1 Q<- n whv tlip vniinu women of the present J I follow this ancient custom. At each e golden helmet, above the ears, are d 1 1- u of the same metal. Over the id lace cap. Unc of these astonishing cost 2,000 guelders, or > ;^ -t ul tlicm are heirlooms, handed down for g ■ > ilk tions. Thn-n who hove not been able to afford tht uo!d f / (3r will have a silver one. '-;.:. arkable lack of taste and under- Uii^-"" iq6 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND . » ^ »-«.. j. -> ~ , > ^c i li these old vu n „ i _r to market not merelv in tljeir strange pnnnply^ but with the h : * and its covt ; - lace caj) -t i " !ier crowned b\ >Miiir,^ ia:^iy old black boTiuul ot rh- tii^sHiful type u- I i!!; wih hy low comedians m pantomime. Th-^^^ ancieiu lames, however, cuiiMdcr ihe effect to be rather -^ ■ ely. Tl ^ in the \ Hlage street, or on the farms, wiien without their dppalling state bonnets, half n rlnzrn of them walking along glitter in the ^ H:ii„! I ia a squadron of Ho I ! T tvalry ; and if you sec m liie uioiance on iiie lai -as some flashing point of light in the sun, like ;i ograph at work, be vci^ ^ure that it is not military signalling, only someone wearing a golden helmet and catching the sun's rays. Just as there is nothing outside < >f England to compare with the winding English ro p i m ■ M a riant hedges, ^u iiieie ic^ nut anywhere eLc than in Fries- la at any kind of farm building quite like the larm- stecid- ill that part of the Netherlands. The >aXon " ha]]p " tvpe of farmhouse is, however, a distant cousin '- n:-".. I sav Ur Atherlands " ndvisedly, not '' Hol- la a i ecause although Friesland is a province of tiie ii! jiuai of Holland, and nut easily to be daan.,a.a-L.-a a;/ Um' -^ranger from the rest ^n Hi^.t la^^ararna \-^;t th- 1 1'.* • liinan who i> ;. i^'risian v;i[l nta: -a'/;.' laa:M.-!^ n *' H'41ander," uh>\ ai^ni hf leaves V," as with a . u :>uie it) for the a n^atiaaii ■vance t-r an^ liL)lii>iii hi: \a ■J. {•*• \ \ :( o o THE "HAYSTACK HOUSE" 199 south, he speaks of " going into Holland." Even so, a W 1 iiman, and some Cornishmen, travelling from their rnvn parts, will be " going into England." Tiius we see that the Frisians are a people. They !i:ivt a lancmage of their own — " FrieRrh " — and customs, and a sturdy independence ; the heritage ui olden times. For " Friesland " means " Free- land." It loliows then that Friesland, which is that ^' ! Ui X therlands extending north-east from h. liM f heni shores of the Zuider Zee to the borders ni tin \*i i Germany, must have many individual features, tiiiui among these, to the eye of the traveller, is the characteristic '' boerderij," or farm- house. !X 11 the least observant person cannot fail lu Ik impressed immediately with the '' haystack house," which is the essential shape of the Frisian larnh use. The absolutely flat and sparsely-wooded character of tlie landscape itself lends an extra- orduiai) jjiominence lu lIiu^dc buildings of so peculiar a plan and elevation. They are, in their general lines, all alike, differing only in size and some not vr!\ iuiportaiit details. This is a vast pasture land of dairy farms, peopled with laiiiiers, and unmingled with other industries; and lilt dyke-divided meadows are teeming with cattle of the famous black-and-white Frisian breed. Fow thiniT- arp more certain than tha^ in this land, coming past the many little wayside inns, you will see frequently the signs of the " Boute Koe " or the "T^ ate Os," which mean the "Spotted Cow" 200 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND or Lilt. "> >» rrj[u.yi ^ ^x " : ^n iu'^..:u\ always ar- liie folk if;.- 'Test. u-ui this, thei; ' T' i { ! ; i ^1 ■ M i • M * ' ! • oCk>. liaystack or jr'-n. !i:j''' tiie uuiuard and di-idni ..:i^u l- .i - .T :-,u,i.^-;\''; * *-\-;\t;.i ill centuries ]'_ e outline is O TT : n -^ 1 Q 1 Ti r I ' '■ ! > ^ ground-p con ^ logical fi'^T one fore- ■m. -»>^ SIRTEMA STATE. building which is the farmer's dwelling-place, with dr; and living-room on either side of the M xX\A l.t^-M'fv^m and kitch^*n h^-liind. lie- runs a passage con'' it, just Japanese pt't-iaa are so ac- a ai i to wooden hi' (kR for their instead of 1 hat they hi no discomfort ; and ju>r, presum- aiMw ;is the crimmal sets used in a long twin oi imprison- ment tc^ ' "■• a.r as fa- ll i ' .' s >► FINIAL TO FARM ROOF. i'- r ' , lank bed. riiu cow-stalls a passage conducts directly ara if hay-barn. TI y is always stored in aiji roofs instead of in stacks in the open. ih ' wide overspreading roof ^f this barn a : iilso the many incidental items of the taismess : carts, ploughs, harrows, etc. The i laslaial farm has nothing in the nature of a mt( V » I M raiir- 2C2 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND muddy lii q 'hn fif"] - Tlie i'fi' w V -] !ch as in France and England, Uiiure lies in heaps and the farmer and , ^^.y,,:h;r,n, aKHjiii ill filth. Every little •^ : Jiness is thought out here. H niigj iui iiii,Lance, of the cow-stalls is to a central gutter, and in the constant . L I- a feature in all the Netherlands, in PVPTY r^.'^rnrtment of life, the farm manure is re<: 1 t ; ; i ; tate and stored in tanks, and in that c J. ill 1 11 is afterwards distrihiited over the fields. 1:..:; ycL'^uaL ujju of farming economy is derived f^ *' ' -— '^^ s of the country ; a land where the > u iti ;^ f and severe, where it is not possible in thoQp nini.iLL:^ to adventure much out of doors. Each -tead is then like a besieged fortress : }' with fui Li esses expecting to be be- they are all well-provisioned against the Tilt re i> very little going on out of doors a^rTi nv "rt it be for the favourite P ^ • ^'- ^'' skatinj. liio^t oi tiiese farmhouses the farm hands sleep in the cov -h ] ^ if; the smaller and old r ones family may fcUii, as in a more in !i : u My they did, use one end -i^^ " ■> n* tii6 Dutch paiiiters prp-piir 11. f Holy F-^-i>v in a stable - . lines : "Scripture, seemed u tri a imary domestic interior. \vould nowadays be unthinkable and. t at t^'^ the fii simple I.) i i i.. (I of (jid or I Li -I 1 ' 4. i i ,i ! i > i I \% ! ) I THE FARM ROOFS 203 in n ^ ^iiduct of farms in other countries, but in the X It r in i is not so remarkable, having regard I r}]f t x: rdinary neatness and cleanliness pre- ^ :; - N frequently, indeed, ailing and tuber- ^ ;i. !.i iiiiaren are sent into the country from towns t) li\<- in the cow-stalls of these wonderful farms, and :;;u gain health by inhaling the sweet breath of the cows and partaking of the generally fragrant warmth of these interiors. T? * n es of the typical barn and cow-stall roofs i u n to within some seven or eight feet from liie i^r^niiin. They are thatched roofs, generally of ret I i? : the thatch usually comes down to about r three feet of the eaves, the intervening space I rniT rovered with pantiles. This is not so much a fashion as a plan in connection with catching thp lain water. The roofs being of so great an area and s^» |) a pitch, a large quantity of water is thus gat :._icd and very quickly thrown off at each it is greatly prized and conserved, for c; n o )wer. 0,11' n a . \ i ' " ainds generally, and in Friesland in par- i iciilh. i 1 liiiough the country is so waterlogged, drink- in^ Walt r i scarce, and rain water is commonly used iui d ^-uici^.c purposes. There are few wells or -'Teams, and outside the towns scarcely ever a water upi a Reeds for thatching do not, as a rule, ^f rna Ironi the dykes and canals which are plentiful afaaa I tjiQ farming districts, but from reed farms. la-i as the type of roof is so little varied, so also are tfie gable ends, always finished off with an 204 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ■l♦'^^l• finial in 1?-, with a " swan- nec^c " ' i-'':f. [iiui nni uiirornr.i' .rny with the bwans' Leacis dul\^ nutiiiifMJ ;i':i| p.j-.N^d wi'h eyes as well. Th- H!ih>!'i!arv (i^-raii- i=i rh- d.-^ > 'r.d, ■- ^h fxhd,)it rnnvr fivvihyiii liiid indivirlnaiitw but they tL t i f ; i 1 ■ . *:" l2 ant '"r^if> i- ■ h 1 T f K L X &. i. iru-' nearlv aiw a v'"" moiiiiti; ■j w r a f-jf prrn't- ; ^' 1 . i a ', f f I la'' s . T i I >. LUL 1")' '.if ' i ',r^' ' -" i- * . , ^ , . "l \ • ! ,v, 1 ■ \ i 1 ^ L I i . ■ i ^ I, i Th- flat. arc peculiaij and th« same vf^e. They are sur- d -i iiiulik, ydrilv fortlia parpose a 1 a a lo make it nnpossible a,a.-i I a. -a huge nests ol >nrks in *^ storks are discouraged Fhey ii lud lucky ; and a iuaiiuu iii the ta ^dl post on farm or common, he storks to nest there, ra the ahi'-h tdipqp posts are prn vided. accessory is, ^^\ a,=-:--.^-, -l^-^ [^.a'-'-an. ■*■ f ; , f'^' t* i 'k^ aO ^ai tJiiULi u an t idea. A ■ t--* ; aara-'ly of this cubluinary ie..r I, he strariLT'^ra 1-;^' the arra air anient is Jd. ii Ilia aataii^ ale inuaad laughable. hniaarhi/' as it is called, consists ^i^hor of !, or not, accord J fo in dual !a,' !-w]s aro oi^her coor^^^d a(i «>r arc V ad a at will. But in any ca ay "'■K ' ] : T i i r UU. among the timbers Ui barn t' ■** " ;. J i ;^ ^ ; ' < *, i a. 1 ]i><('f' Cf-'?^ |, / 1 i, k the morni^iir Tlie amusing lied plane, i :, t, » > i 1 I 1 ta as little staircase, or a t I ho naves from the o^mard up the dvvays daintily made, and may 1 1 i^ ' i i) ii r-f- i:~r « . •--*/»/■? ijf i e lnt\M ^; a.. ■-:^..^' 4\ \ 1 W ai ft. W o H o o n M O H QQ HOW THE FOWLS GO TO BED 207 be enclosed within brightly painted sides or equally gay-looking palisades. If solid sides, instead of pan? i^ing, the woodwork often will have little glazed ^^^-^^-' ^^ese windows are placed here vt^^^ THE HINNEEIN. ■f "• Slir:;,u : ' <■ s_--' sL \.^ j- 4 i '.,*.* tli- ' the fowls to look from. It is the last ite consideration, and compares with hich gives the cows windows furnished ;-J blinds. 20& ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND Tcuhtur |.^ ! HMilt'^-'! Fri^'>ia!;'i f:ni;. rirchifeeture exfiifHtc few a.nd iiuii~tj>>'jiitiul i:i:-jnaes ill U;- im-'a iy i,.in:t farm- ho'isf^^. You IhhL it i^ t!"u.»\ tliat th*/ riiodern farrnei' does n*'* c^.ni.Ui^r.^v h-.^- ii.. ajn" t-xtt-it m t!a' * (■;j\','->t.l! The laf^JtT ?'l'i ia!'!hhuli5U5 iiUVC :>rii! ^i;o:-.= i-uri''ir^ tstM ir. H a: .:- rha.! wri'f {■nr<' an irjva''iablt' ftMturc •>! dall.a-'H- hir ill r\-(.-l\' htratUiii <,-■ ilaaai -«jaie* v : ih"-^ b-arnnni- wh^r^ von ^ro i,!j tHMi>ta;.ai- : \^■fi^ !♦• th^' fann!\' raaa'tn. ai* ]r.'ij p]:pl)na!'d> lur tli'* fa-ii^ ihM. tia,'jr li^ixan/.!-. aad luhiir i H M 1 t^ aial'"^ a ;;| h as I- in n-r close' i thv Wi.aia. Ih lie/ iin-iva'a ha fii'e ai-.a ;ii,.a 'alaai. i[., UiC (,id lilies \v|:rrt' tfa.' ra'i''-iait a'^aMa-aii' ai iiavt.- iiv-fn- date idea-, tlie UeiLtecei iU the rueau lt:-eii IS IiuW seeia Tie IT* le I a lav out of a new farmhouse will, h'aet'\ea', b'- a,t, (Iiatricts : M u . - the gable erai^ ■.^ / \ e,na!and^-d a-aaern.,a^^ hi a liiiiaL hleffn teM>_ at Sjrten,ni, the ecni-s are httered tkiwii on straw, and t i.^y- la,ar= nawiraa. Bud. whartwa.:r n- . ,-> .a -i/v ^a thevn hirms the house exhibit.; . .. x , ui.^n r., a,, Knnhadman is liiore or Je^e a aunaju- aw- of nefdJiife^ Wlien, oxamiiiiiii^ oua uf tha hanua, you stand nahnn its Iront el(:\aira.Wa U' ,tt_,ax— Uaa -a i\^. 'h-a-t dht,- aUV- thiiid an Id.ddd-^-in would eX|Mnd a dinnhoui' ail rieat *.- ^ ~ «=, if: W a. I < , i as though araiM,.; typicad ciiv nia! country and h a house whear- bruuvWork uu' door and fhtr u through, tha a farrnei'T laawa .0 i . iunvitably aeeurd< wdh, -: or veh\'et"Upfud,at«wt'd ■■ , together wuth shuw'}-^ inniM>rs. YrAi need nut ba rhar\-^ of glancing thrrawdi thasr' Ireant wna;,n:.nv>, Nouane ever is m thuae- laionia, are.-;.:, ah^ieetl it be on Sundays, TiH:w are state-rooms, fur dignity, rather than tu be u^ed.. ue , Iiuiit - Glance ^ y h'risian xtwr a Vlu^'h at -.a ? .:-. Ul IT 210 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND n r'nir southwards, the Frisian type of farmhouse becomes a little modified. In the Hoorn and I they are more ornate, lie brass furnishings of the front door i polish ; the gateways and palings r I the thatcl] is sometimes elabor- A- ' le gardt ii within tiuir moats ar i with something garish, such rr- or calceolarias and lobelia. as indeed, most counuy houses winfiow- ,iiiii xi. .h:iV^' InA;rtJ ^pit-. til *■ \i.' '''{' I '!'! :a r*' M.=^ i i, 1 1 Ill fin Hid, are moi'^ I Hnce I contemplated aUiig a book on inoated houses 1 r~. I.tmg a'Ld inu: I - 1 i ^ i 1 T. I f I * Hi n oil 11 Iw. I ( r r. 1 • thn-t i^ to say. T n^nd^ a list of tlH>ni. i fi !• t isily make a list of the lu! u linuses i Til 1^ were not moated and write a }>nnk witlio I moats as the curious exceptions. ^i.uuuu lliu iailiiiiUU:^tj^5 ill Ixuiland a!r' not n^\ \'0U cannot hw tliat *■"'';! I'lrr' r;iiai]i-< «,.t!)pr ■M.n-nii.,-. t'^'om |,)fiVciti' houses ana --ai-;-, vVfi fi.!;*- H'^'a s'hari'lio^. tl^p^^ oxT^ibit fw? f\' \'ar;s-y ot iav.-Lt_-^f^ from fauH^'-i i^eauty lu^ u^ li ifanTRTii t:\iravagance. i a ic is a robustious iivva..ajaai ^a:.} i\t r.^ \;:a:ance of outline in most "Da^-'i iiiLLaiLLiuiL uiaLii m its way iutaiL iiiu luiii' Kia^ hurri'-riTz of tlw- peasants in •^"'*'' Rilar Up t^ »■!■ i ' i > Tr - 1 " Tp .=^. n f "F^'n n Z ie, and Teniers. The qii< a aia a a iiiiblp^. olalmratolv nirvnr! and convoluted, tiie aav a* ain^ a e wmdow-shutters, the bulb- aiai oiiiaa,-ai,M |.a * a KOrKaiuco «iiai nameless cXLie^seciiueS n: ?a- *'aaa,a- ^a^ -a'"es of town halls .ml ^aaualies A GREAT PEOPLE 211 ate -all I ill'" results of that rollicking, boisterous CuhL .-pa a; which is a revolt fmira aiin aaam-l, i];p atrrnai tiatness aa:aa. ;. t- tlie (ajuntr\' - i >• . > . ■ 1 1 j J ti i. t . ! 1 O J » _ ' > „ J tO • . : ■• a i . ; a eonscioiiaiiea^ tljai negatiofi oi scenerj^ ; that tinar ian(, ut tiie eiaitanahi (,a I'nia* an aa?'- o^.^ a . . ,- J\JiJli«' 14 !»' i ' a ',. . , "i I I la aii,a i^ i msm ' n a u\ai • - ) !, ; i « .' ill* nji'ie $ no |'.a%--M' . a. .. wall a Pa- .-!.,' aii.ii,iLi;i t ill it. till' a a iMja 1,1 M 1 1 ] 1 a i t" * ' P > J i • i '-■• i-4. V aJ t > llci,'«. vv t aiiU so ladaea Ithouffh Holland is t ul Wta, And Pi iiaiat:,, a tlie Duicil cifa ;-t iiiMd.lo III if ' 11, air . t'l ia . ('i- Hi an aaaw ^a-. is an iiai'.Meaka: a soiaetlaaa which OWa:, no .aa-PiaaL iPiiiuaacea. iii<{ ii I., v,HUl ll \ , .aarked iia- a aauuPiLia' a a pra^^aaja i.v i i. ^. .1 4 XXII Tx fla ar vat level stretches of the northernmost lairt ul tp.- .\iaaa.araiai .la t!aa i-- . tP :,jrii]Q find countrv aa,aav-and^-wp.aa cattle, is an : >■ ^■ioUNe I kaa'a , It lies butweaa tJiai -lausu iiariingeii of which voiir tourist to iloilapii b\ ''}L liiL liUUitv^ U.L Uliivi |.M-a ; Uiiii' iiiiJUiiiD a-*! i.ii) ijllXJtlK Ii . W;i 17" 2T2 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND lui^ nev-r hear^i ; and it i- -onir- tHb^.-n i "^ - '- . : ! sea. nut :-o fuj frun! tii*' t-rwii uf i.*/fn.i\v '!.■*: .-,:.- i^ tiie rafntal uf I*'rit-].iri-i. A>'\u,illv that- tuwii i- three iiiiip< Hi;.taiK. hut Hi ii,i> rfgiuii of ila,i r-oiHitrxa with few iiitj-rvriiieg trt't-Q^ and >n r!.s,tr ;ii.(l ajulnciit a "^hy, voii raij iari kma. Vou rcafi jn Sh.; ai-ti in khat feiano tha baaiaaina aiiO tk'- taai ah' jHaita">a iaua.ir'~bu'a-:a — Ijp a '" dreary" tijwaa loat i- a. a >u : it j^ ,; avt-kv^ !^a\aa aarj ijuaint and baautitaJ. Aaa a^ i- a araai of ri^hiur.. waiiaii }e:aj eoaia apa ^,;-.a 1:':L''-']\\ rka,t -Utki Orar,.-. ...a \aikl ap'.k:ea or a- laa.:a aiai laurar-'' kt pu^^iu^bark. Tkav ara ^irvy arri \vad;^:-ra.] ; aa^-''--aa a!id haaaar'k .X(,^\a. le:'-a.vvaaM-ii :~ .a least a- -;a. aa^ tk- :-aj lias not da/tl uur. ra- U' , K k O'*!; -,;0, ?a-a" ar*aa nor aaekaaHak I kave, h*aa^aa.a\ aa O-N'-aaa a^aamM- t,, p,-, s^^'iik tovvii5, but uark ria- a^aaaiaa I :oa -ftaaa aa a^at a« a trnifd^ !i',aaa a^ Ir "•■'r^, i-ai lu ,i laO' k. -^-aiarrx-- iiuaae^ atavaip wna iiitiidc a k^a .k'la,a'ak a-i iiaia- HOW THEY TALK ENGLISH 213 aMif' '■•! lo^'- a itia r, .,^ .ite vour ( u>t.>a. i- r-f lisli. speak ai\' kioaaage with fluenc}a It h true 1 Lat, hke ail hjivjon-a-, and even like th ■ tkey are at taia- aatli xiio word a '" a* . ; ; and (iireut iiv: i „- ai liaa. : a— 'd. O/a--,^ withtan: m wa ; .u. ,.a> a ; f ^ '- - -a... o d. '•" \k>a 5^a// ao to lao-- award en d.^aja\"' " ckjas not. ti\ieraadra. naaiti i!a ■ r ,^.,. ■ a !'. -fraa-^ Oj 1)0; and wheo, we ^'irnvx' tdiore and go sho|-ipina. and. a shopkeeper, inlandina to be pokta aaa.. at the aame tune, to a a a few wtirds tit ^a _ . -^y r hfairtiia an i .;"!: eni.piiaa.i>, on v^. no" a_ : - aa:d!t-o daa. '■ ■: .- , ; a . a- aid i naa Oa* '-^^a \'»-"a t Jio , ; ^ >•-> ' ^ +1 n«d a« - a-'-d n ■■ , , , , Bat ^i:.d o ' .o way n. : i ! * ' to :ak\ til ?, ,. ■■ • w.-, , • .;n't'a. t. . So tc -^ed vmii i-a '" , . a i .a , ^ a-' ft.n- khe oarp^ - f '1'-- ^' ^ J^ • - ao-^a.^ . ae, the home of knn.ied fanad>a^ 'oi ao manv aenturies, is the last af era knai ti his region. The other old families aiifaa:^ nTi^ oxtihrt, 01 landless now ; or, iia,ire !atra\" yet, the}' a.t.^ ao longer content to reside, as oai !h.eir .!<.,*n,aa^.at:o .01 tfirao extremely quiet atai naaote surroiindntu They have, at any rate, disappeared, and this i< tiia .•iily ''State" left. That terni is tlin one uso(.l inr ''estate," with a slight diltarenre in in,aaii..naa, It indicates the house a- tia.a, a. .,.s it does the , d that goes with it. Saa!U:an.nea the word ~' si(.a. - -ayiloyed, a variety ,- the awiii.ia.ii 1 > : ! ' -par ' * 214 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND VI' fi If: Si ie. r M 1 the Wuld T f I If Ui{- rf'-p liititt^,} i .ul ca^sUe ui euuiitij ? = (■■)■' Wiii ! ! r" i M' Thf'iv ;- iin society I leer," rh^- iiia,.ri, i/f no !i.;i-t lit ■I'd ■- ^' a: I i ■ < ',. f tiit/r the rinn>f^ hp iitly \il!a. f\ ]♦ nnd«]\- like a castle, it fi : > ii :, in the Dutch t he '' edelgeboren Such ithin himself or L ■ ' i i .''-'■ffi^ nrnj rnitiift 1 l*v, Mi bf extreiiii-h' hnii'lv : iur i.c vVui iiui m.ix with the fariipT-. p-f;Ofia!l\' not iinw., ]ir.rai|NP t|M. farmers, whis nre ali \var-ti!n'\ .n-i post war-time, p-nu^^ers, f! T"! ' i T I ' I ! i » V '> inii]!-' wojihliA' train llie old f;:adlis , • 1 1 < onlv ostentatious, in their la or tau iiiu ^,iiowv but not tasteful conditions of Ti t i ' T' t J ? If'} ; j- ■ -V •-> I h^ ! ai-a aid l ttt a iiave not changed hands sinap i4:al^ Alwnvs the place h^- pn-=;pd "hv morriac^e Uio T?ai> in t?;<- }.:■ an Tv^- gallery tlit-re stid laoia a^a-^ ? .o a-ceiitury nw^-^or^ of ^ \\- \ I •• 1 1 fi t -*• ^a ^a^e succatMiuia a''i"'^a':'n<:*.- =na:; nuw. liiu JJutaii bcive evui iu\ua Uxd jjortraiis laiii^'l^ad. S^<'aia' nf ^]iOse li'a'^ are b^'.ia^'nd ;.n = ] •: r ^ » rnin-a. i taT* i I \ I i ?■ ^ r- J rt ^ ta aa ' =aa. ik ; a a Ma;^: a mJ U t i ' i :;^ , IL v\ a-:= tlit; >» a. > tfiOSt' dd Jjatiai J li 1 : r -,^. ?^ha wears a richly _^rf«.,tR^ V.-V* 4'u«^. 'a ^7 .*S rf'^T ii*., i --<3r»- <: - g •'^I '■ ~ ■ - i '-'^ffi-Si ■ wa' . V V -£- 1 r ^S^S\^ ' /- > /I- '■ d. ,, ^^ - iy^r'; .---^a |:a%a«, ;i;.«r:/: ^ aai'raa^a'<.i u^ .-r^A f a .-awi..^>v^aa ' , "e-- c^-'^-ai-' 'a. . s* ., - - s- av t , ^^^^ - r^"- - ^i ''. //'bHi\ t 'T- 'II ^ / 1^ I i H 03 '-4 CO O OS H O H A DUTCH COUNTRY HOUSE 217 br . . : costume, with skirt down to her feet, lihi 1 woman, and in her right hand she holds a tiol! .lately dressed and just as meticulously pamteci. ! light falls ^-' derly on her, for this room is a tvpical Dutch interior, thc^ windows tall aiii iiai?o\\ ii I curiously shuttercL 90 that the li'Jix t rues slanting down into it, as you see in the iiittTHji's I'aiiited by such liiiiTh artists as Teniers, YvTiuA'vrr., t )e ii-=-;h, and others. Tiiere i< iTr ieii uA blue-and-^\.iiiir vLia.. in this }i vu>r, \u,ah i> itch and oriental, and there are manv I- r i s. In the attics, which u^ tin Ives iTvai n^oBia, iigiii alii! d.rv'\ some loiia-k>T,:(jUen ! always rewards a search, li rt uj iho-:^i: wiiu love the mediaeval and inrer - c^ii two occasions, in 1700 and I'^on^^ Miyi. aiM t-t iKS conceived the notion of brr^n^ li - hoiiie iw 10 =i:ite. At ihose times, anr! p^t^v J : was held in c ? 011 . • * ' uc iiilciioi is remodeiaMi in " ELnpiro ^^ w fioUy, because I gather that it was t ii a) if! enterprise. a 'he fifteenth and sixteenth list some brickwork at the back and some i' (.1 II-. a H a i?i l^t'« ?< I" \ found tc • t,-" J \ er's old hus ..aai I.MU aa -lunes in the eel!ai= W : bacame 01 V > 1 1 V J, ' . • ••- i ' from the older house ? Buried some- i a ' I i I J b , And thus most of what remains of those ancient pt ople la their recorded mode of life. Rather a tierce and arrogant way they had. I have a notp 2i8 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND of hov, one luid of Jjckema, one It;-'. I I n m 1 I' I *% i V Tjaerda, feeling annoyed with the townsfolk of i) -T ^ ' ji»^-.;::.^..-f*^*^^» 1 I H THiE: MO^r 219 01 so cjj >i the houses there, and killed a feu of the 1 1 : r as well. Not, it seems, an exceptional incident. Just, no doubt, to show the Lccuwarden I n; N wlio was who and not less what was which so to Sci\ But this arrogant raider was besieged by the angry iviughers in return. I do not know v jiit was the upshot of it all. But it shows how ; nay n»'rt's-.ir\", ii was to have a good broad aiiu u'>''p m ;t round the house. It is useful yet, lor, nke iii}^::^ moats in Holland and the canals, however l'r^\ their water, washing the household linen is generally done in it ; and it is surprising with what dazziiiiii Avhiteness it emerges from that dubious liquid. The moat is there yet, happily for sake of ^he I ir t] sque. Fish live in it, and water-liKes flourish, and wiii ducks skim its surface. And a wooden liiiclire. with gateway locked at night, crn^^r^^. \\^ Hi a spectacular manner, with little stone lions ^K img up on their rumps and holding shields in their iiiws, with the familv arms on them. Over the Uiiteway } uu read the inscription, " Tankje God yn alies." 1 1 is an L-shaped house, built, as are most build- ings in Ii ulland, of brick, with the usual pantile roofing, and the chimneys with muffles over them. irmounted by great gilded and pierced •■•s. ately for the English visitor who does not speak tie Dutch language, there are plenty of I -" "^1 ■ 1 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND shouM, ij i i I ■ i i M quaint < ! 1 ; K m the house, or how, on rainy days, o pn-c; ffio time ? cntbyt," is generaH/ v r oon after \\'«- ihi'i better tlien, memento t)f Crooc^i::!:- the lTri:\ - Op n ' . • . ,T three tef-i lnuiu The villct-c adioining is ^inali arii the moat, oast a , re- THE TERPEN 221 Beside its brick-paved roads are either small dykes ;] a h ivigable canal, iiie church of dull red brick, with tall tower, completed with a saddle-back roof, IS aiK ieiit but scarcely interesting, and very grim and gaunt. It is s^m.^-^ exactly like every orUr ENTSAITCE TO THE POPTA SLOT. village chnrch in these parts, and it is built on a mound, ever so little r ' rUi nhove the geneiai level ; one (1 ti se '' terps " ere formed by the i)Tt:iii>h}nc folk of these districts as 5ite5 lur their origuiai settlements, against the danger ot tjeiijg druwiiedo.a : , ■ .. . r floods. They are simply, 222 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ill tiien origin, Itphp^ of clay, diia fmm the surround- \ i these Friesiai. villages lii\r i ames 5 J l.K.'lL f,... . ., - ^//' £-^un iiiuiu markpfl , T • ■ - i . . < ' . i ». . T O , ' '■'•'■■ t ^ ; ^ :, '■> . , i ; 1 I l^=-n,:n!a,. a.i:a tjn;'ii^*^ds of A:;:, : T MJema, that aj;L!n''i>- artistic success, was a ! - i folk al l^rulirijp, bclWccii i w n. rd »^ f! - .:\ ^' V ^^ \" 5'- ] 1j\^ ."^ a. * " * a"a' ' l*'ra a _ . a*.aji' a I \-i< lai'tlaaai t j\ ar** If a,; III I a ,1- 11. 1 1 .. aji .-: T'i-,-i Ti- ,-■,• ■, i i Jul I hers nvf^ araazing. n itch J and !< ago ; a bocia] aiat • ■' . l"a a of isLiii I ,: 1 a;iaa'!i aiiu J^uuii- fie i')\/i a' !a''ra I- L ' , j, • V i to-day ? !'a" :ru iL \\ V^i a > , ill i , i ' : ijl ■ * » . ■ * pa I I* »:■■''- ht tht ■ i-?:jaa fair" ^iful ^^ia lli 1^.' It m \ as a painter, Uia old Dutch |a-\vnrV \\ hpTa ih:- I'losely. aua I a; a ••> a * " 4 a^H >| lal' he apphed ^ same care t a: a - i subjects he chiefly affected. But V a^ far inferior to they, as an artist, of an archaeologist in paint 11a iittLl till iH.ts and ! a oa a -. . . f ■ 1 -i. A *- 'J O a- M- i ) .li. i?_ n the Leeuwara a TT i a ri road, I ^lunrijp, is iiiu i opia ^lui, the a residence of tlie T pta family. POPTA SLOT 223 t'f J. ill It is la t precisely what we would understand by ail a a fit castle. It is more. The term carries Willi a an implication of something mouldy, although n t u^ ; an archaeological specimen infinitely n^ but not desirable as a residence. But the Pniaa >\nt is very much more than that. It is a [ a iaae of antique art, fully and beautifulh : ashed With ! i\ a! V old things. The Popta family, wit ij those who went before them here, is extinct, but if they r nae back, they would find their old home just as they left it, in every particular of beauty and comfort. h)r. Popta, the last of his raeej tawards tlip f'ln^o of the eighteenth rontiiaT jpft hi== i)r-perty a f i all 1 1 widespreading lands as a aha ■ i r v. I {''ait'\a If T.' he the richest rhantx' in flah,aia,l„ The 1 airiiincent building has lain conservatively le- i^iuied, aiid 1^ a iuLugnised show-place. To it is +tar}iori ' Tl almshouse. The are kind i o ' OVVT the udeiiiaijiien their poor old people, as will 1 vijiimiv. in their '' ga>tiiuisen " ; * a a T uwen. You enter the n h » iiaa aa. adtertural gateway m llie baraH.^ue a(jn, two iigures supporting a shield f air - ir- mounted by a coronet. It is a char a Ufa I ft a a it p h composition, and among the best (J its Tt is a pleasant road on to Harlingen, through i ia i ha \ quiet, clean little place is Franeker, Willi a police-office next the StadLiiia oearinsr the word Polizie " on a blind in a kind of shop-wmdow, 224 A I Ir ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND "! i lice were a kind of delicacy sold within. '' Planetarium " which vou mci\ ^e^ . nodel of the ccl«^stia: hodie?. con- ii pi I. iiVi ': i "■" a a WfjTlllli'J I •I ^ ^ H V^ '^' ? ; — rtji In '*^**'"^^"- - THE ZAKKERDEAGERSPIEPKE, FRAVprEP. striictt,^'] ]iv one Ei-t^ Eisinga, 17"! -SI. ?,i,t !.() -pp it. I — liaLci r There are the usual canals HarlINGEN 225 'r'i ,• -f t r i j:i Clip pec *• T' ees if :; i. till tiie t 1 ? » "i ' \ ^'^ •■-, w'j »•> ". ^ I /■^ ;• '! . .ii: L-eliiuie ill tile -tret-'ts, beside • ^ f^ ^ . (,;■.• ,;_. Stadh:]L>, «] i' .. - . ■ ••■^ '- iiriiver>iitv. .. :,. .XapuiiHjri suppiesse-J it. Anri ^ iui little red-brick bjiidiii^, •; " ZakkerdFj.:»': -i- ■ .■ ■ " f T .u;^- name:), "1/ "" L/ •::- :,. *■ pic til re (i here. HarliiigeiL tiit northern and not greatly-known little port, trading with England by way of the Tliaiiie-i^ IS a. tjuiM^r, '^\ -ly. wmd-blovii place, full of 'ak.jur^ \'riav.\ ^::ir,a>, grey seas, red and wlute '■ ' . .'j^i of red roofs. There is iKit ->> e .■■ ■ as there would taiv- Vhs^-u ha^i . up a great ; 5i^.-!i Porters;' it*"»'IS'' ^ ' • t » 1 mueii { 1 f i i not t: i-' '-4 - ' fe ago. Sio. ■( not ci jiue lii* <. . *C3 opportunities for expansion i.iave f these northern ports. XXIII To 0'^'"' O'' a '• • ' ' i coiiiitrv 0*' , -t- . . ■■ all eiitertaifjio:: . a o '■* these pastor--- .. ; a - and iL^* aroo" ^^ ' : -Oa to into the to"»^a ., i. !a^,' ^/jdLj ^ ^ * ^ ' ' t '^ ':.: [■'^"Lrafaiae. 1 . . ,1 i J i I ■ - — 1-^^^ -4- 1- ^ i: I ijixix ■^^ ^^fS 0^^ THE ROAD IN HOLLAND coiiiplete was the contra-t, A vri^.- iittie niftropolis, it 1- true: m pi;puhi\i<>h lU^- :-l/j- >'i ^^ur lii!;!irii(.^nd in Surrey, but i'ivkinii riiucLi iin:dU'i\ in tlieir evrrv^ Cireuiii>tunee tLeru i^ rMie r,i;^.^ ; t.,F\ ui cuiir;-!' Ue.;ii- liiurid IS a Luii^ii'ii ^ui'url.i . ciea iLt/ir ,- iiulluiig fcuburban abuut LrTiiwrirdon, Tt i- a cnhiplete unit ; c4 liruvii.ricil unse, aii-i \'*-t with a soii.it 't In ug word ■" prnviiiriaJityb' "Jh,!* j> ;tr; rie-tt, ruj doubt, partlv rd 1^;. tine cind h.aria-uiij.t u:a, puhd^^ euii'iie^-, but Jiiore uf it> it immunity, whirri b. hr>ij}' agricul- tural arai rattle^rai>iria, d •:- iniA' : Uu^^ watfi a aiKjil baakuai uf tiip prufespinf,,ii raa->^->. 'I b^^ idt- ajid tbe shops Ui iajtaiuail'i.aa; aoa <»ia' '*\"^,eod -a''-a laf llVtditr aliii ui a batdcl ^t}*^.' UkO. O: t h- a\a.U'a,ae Elii/iiSn pruViUtaal duva: n' t|j- .-...afij-* :■:/,>■.;, 1 WvMud like tu liiid a raaia'duia .ajj a.\^»s\s. auij ia„ali have that profe->aaa,u and. rtdaia-d eru<;dt- vlvnjjiit which jiiVf^ a *,i.,ianiJ'a'a a^pt■uL Lu Uiuae tiiauata'S whore it 1- to b': aSaOd. iivii: ViAi v,ad >oe :-nra»a]ai a \''U\- cacOarteristic. Nut eXaia-iViav eharso'na\:-.Of' of laaaavardiUi, but LEEUWARDEN 227 typical of the quiet streets of many another place. Ala nu iho la I ier features of a Dutch town, at loa>t iTi Its quieter re'-^idiurHal -a-:^ the spionen ar^; piiuuintsad I do not snpf.^ •-■ . p!'i\aiio or {U-oiCbbionai poopu'^ ro tbaa tia an a kind of people m Jb are naue :r\-;aaa;„atae anri nietb' ...l I,* 1 1, o and ^« a ; aujuiadive . lad. they U..aai '''^"ay o.aa iia_ ..aa.,' of uettUig to krajv\- wd^a;t i> uiaua on ill itciaiaaid ; and they ar- uu^: so *.dj\a^.,a,i- as ta*- inqui5dive buigiibha'oioan. ssho pears d'oiu, bi'ijinii bbnd^ and, curtains uaion vuhai n,.aiv in: iiappoiiinc iii tb<- strata: and ji »> ..r!-*a a,., ja*^*— .oy irnubbMn doing so. 'll^ A. a a-- 1 -l..,'.- oAu'-a the knowang oi wUtit i- po.'aasaiiay Ladoau; liuar houses to a fine and leisurcaJ arts b\- Aie aid of mirrors :^i:i Laitsicb.* their windows, at 'oaasirat: anaaa it r fcaiifaaniiUiy the dooao:,,ya ia)r a ^iynt ■^- ■ i...- rn ?jr a,.a- da-piavaic a \aew ol tia.; -t!\.aa ■ .-: lA. \i no:^e are tiio -OHHa/a,. lO; -t-y'-dbi^-aS. lot-', .a a b\-^ ]Nj ineana unbra..ova, lu. Aaabind.. bai n;o'. .o^- -» amaauiutsn a^ n^ t :- . ■ . » ■ .; ; - d ; ~ * a, in lirabiijd tho)- ar*/ Aa/ (:astomarv aceassory to a,, pravate iisajse. [aajuasioieri has all ito da-jaa-5 rruportaiaa^ and its di^no} - ' ■' " ' '..':■. Fnia>k,r ■' . a'. .;.. ' , ' - . • - • -' .,. WcO^ iro\ -: . • a ' and on -a- A- • Ay Aalaao Stadtholders. buoaii AoniUaissaiy fir I- "■•-'-a- A than ihib, liowever, is the \ ■■-% • I -'t. 228 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND come m frnm the TTarlinirr*T. roncL u{illi|)^illg as yuu d(* S'j ''tie bold \'i<.:vv u! ii\i' t Jiu^/hu\-n, a iiiassi'v r- chiirr'h-to'^ver wiiH'h set'in- |.i hau betwerii iji'iiig m niilitar\' and an tM:(;iH^la-tii'ai W'jrk, and, leans, very u fh^^ I'n.ait, tJid fifsjses at r> 1 » ' I ' r"i J » n t" i a I 1 1 ■ i f * a t i .. i i-i'. 1 1 5 7 tl L < ' i I ' 1 ■■■ « i i. i >-' the iuiit u' its iiur [aiSifa'^ » S _. i l ' ; t !i^;lii-(s\s.':^, iauk inillia- till rj''^-i h\ sa|)ari><,ai^ ..iii-j I \ i ' ra'eiad eanai m tbe fur^_'irruiusL uiia,di was onr^* th*,^ !ue»at of tiie f-irtiiied town,, an<„i >ti,il. irr^aiuaarK' a-irirrim^ it, eun,iplete> the pietur^a 'I'here i< is^ 'SiuriSi re!naii.nj'a.( of tins 3ixteeuth-«'Hnt urv te)Wta\ 'I sa niu-i heaaitiiiii seeular buisiinu in ':la' Luvvn i^) Lii-' i/!ni!,i,rtSlerie, »)rs ii you like, Tti^' Kari-elsa'v in tL*> Turf Markt, hiiilts '-tran^' to >a\a it^ tne era nt Miani-li Di ia(''S,ltlori, 111 1560-7,1 It wa< ttie Cuiirt-tn'd^.aa- .a' ^'na>land m t.hose times ; but- imw ,finei*a a,!HJ wit,h one lofty iiuil. Air,' .Jrrhna,o;t Ifnni ,laniiland. « ' i ! K t irauit,' 01 rat Hazinir at it ua,!! pao,a,/i\'a that linen this e,levatioin na,jre hiuin. fmni pe,rha|o an\' ntn^n' in ,Huliani,i our own ar(d.iitei:is bnnsiWtel llanr eraz** iji sonio forty- rive \'ear- a^-j feir wsiar tia-^ br^'ii irrt-'Sia'-rnU}" nai,iao„i the"' blood-anddaindan^,- ' ov " heni-sandwi,e,lj Vinaro ner of a,ittTnatina; whit<- -teae,^ an^i o'd brunt. In its'" Fr.ie-^ch Mn-a,an'ii " f.eeuwarden has sLowii it>eii np-toa:ialt> iri t,ii'; trrenna' iieniern spirit *NfH'inir}0' t'-> i}rr*no^vina ,.j Q < M » o 03 N Cm O O A4 the olden bea-cupnoard-a tiie tncd waii: v.i li • I CUBIST STAINED-GLASS 231 ' = ia ■tiv; fV painted furniture, you have some of the most fasciiiat- insf of exhibits. Su Hi :id\-;inre, in fact, is T.np-Trnr^.^-'i tiiat ilif^ iijviiX !ti 1 r Roman Catholic e lurch there is fiirnislied nr iti (Jubist art, that '' last '..v-pi. ' m ^ -;-.;;' u!id di'>iLru. Cubism in pa,iiitni^ i- :=a-pua, c-|MP.i;4^.g^ wild] 11 IS practised by those who overstep th<' nia-k a.iiii descend oito vorticism and ao o- wnr^t ^.-■•: cities. Buth ^ho duller who wtdeuiiic- tiicbt. aospels because they sec-iii i.ij liivi- an I'ppuriiniiiy Ijj iiicnpat'itv. and 1 he facii'-ao/wvri i-^^i' v\'iiM -et;S a. ihiaripe n[ iiecommg profihJ,M\ i.^u'^ru.u-, ha^i ihelv account in them. Bui, iH-UMiai. ^d' Ui^.:-^ windows, I Wf/fU !u -ci^ thefii, ^wiH^nirp; rnc wnr-r -arin re- !nain,cil to .uiicu-, \ of th'' '■hyiTi'\\ aTc in in I he eh !»■ - • w. •■.■•■ ventaoiia! = vi"., v. a >■. .: saints, picrur^ h m 1.. that sickl\ ! i:>hiuii ^u a regard san > d> n.afaa^ iii-o: mon-lv a- n- r a- a a- wt a; * niunt ha\ ■'■ da. a: '"a d a a a .'^ i Hi ^j; body '. ^ <• those a f ■ i , a COn- enaa^ aiated '. ^ on per- 111 u a-lljcr nou ■:-^( a iC a'a> OT a:'-d-. thev o hara' J ,;,i,' ■■ '. aaaven- tionai ra^'O-ia n,iu.ch., H\i' ihj ■ a. a JiJ^:- d- 5 10- o^a - - d-' !a ^--^ -■to ^ !v and da. a * •■' ^^ -' ^^ 1 in thcar T(^ri-ia t'nriwt window^ ai fa^-nwarfifai are rouiihdiown and laraJ^^ and aha Liavarn- is atojaig. 232 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND XXIX TfflB name " Frie^l.trid ' wcuid -ei^rn to iiio-t l.:,^,.>' • nien w indicate tLat tlii- \v.i> an t/XA"t-|jti'-,na,llv cui^! country, especially a* it i> m the uav'i-. But. it i^. the land of the Friesiafis, tia: '' idjv |Ha.>pled' who inhabited all these northtaai shure-^, vxichihiin over what is now the pr^nanee of (rr^jninaerK aial into Gerniaijv. Thev were a t rtToainic nahe : and tix^t iind niention m tiae page:- ui Tacitu-. I'hi: aturth" independence of tiie I'diesian^ wa> a leatiire of tfa/ir character even m tho ruiao of th*- Huroan,^. va^n never fainquere^'i tliefn. : and it ^li^v^v»;8 tn tfjis dav in tiie manneth iji the people, kn-iiiha i-oa,iteoa;^,^ but self-reliunt to an unusual dearee. It i^ un agreeable mmuiuui of eharactenstice to an\" ^t^an'^^er who IS perhaps more u^ed to the blunt lUid -onietirneo unideasmg independence of Yf)rk>iurc .nai [.aijca- shire, not often easily to be distinguir^hed from -hecr rudeness. The Friesian language, '' Fricscii," or '' Fnese," survives, and 16 still spoktui. It i- not nierefv a dialect, and a Hollander na"-i^t ofteii d'H'':> lioi uiailer- stanri it. There i^? somelhirig of e leooiie! i'^-'weeci England an.d Waao, for Ffae^huid r- im umrr Ifollaral than Wales is Englarith Tlitco i,^ nni-ei Xor>e ui Fne^cli : and niuclo ton, nf wh.a >uuiid- I'uijh-li. In tact, there is a current rh\uiie ; THE FRIESLANDERS 233 " Good butter and ^ood cheese Is good English and * !■ c-C. JS mg knig!o. became reluctant h- convfuaaai fri.an ree/ir grev ,Nu- :. ; ■• ...■> ( xternal schemes of overlordship j fi'Und .1 \^.i\ : : ^ e« " .ah then, a. 'h^ oen.- '-^' . I .. •- -^a\ ' d In"- 1)1 S a-, an-' tOt v oe r. , . , M, •e Th it U'^l : ^ ii . . ' ibaa-iit- ' • a . * •'• pt'?:pie l! ami fjeeind merto\"' oi. rrnuri' naue'^ ti> tfa; (..lamm. ll tlie Frie>iaa.>. fei\/e\"ta. tiaO rr:^ T, . '^■» i t t!,.. i.l it. O I : ; e li aiiO a ] i'jutKejl :-aoe, that the (dmicii i:ao m- o/aae.^fi they |)erhaps would have been more suspicious tliao thev vvere, At iOi\' rate, ill course oi time they found •':.-: - selves insidiously being *ontraOt 1 b; : ^tam--^'Vt ]' ■ :i > under Uj^ ;.••■( a :, . ■ f'U- - . ^ =. ■• naifiV. :0 a '*• -J' ■ | .' ^ a • • -m^ a ^ ■'■'.-,.. ^. " Seii"E«ad t '■• '•:':. la 1200 t] .- fu'-\i,.-, re^'uama ■: ^'^icumartat asain>t nitm ma< oe^dence in i||,. tH :-Me • ^ - .-a \^ . _ .a ' ' : . t been eiected tTermaai f\Hm'= eOe-o*'. o an,d rJiereafter earra^i «.ai t -":'_.> •• hundred ana, ufn' vioers .'.a-r- ' a^ . l''rieshaaF lliov,. uii terms, rh*-- o^..^ • -;*o. lam ; ; o'i\" a f the < !i States-Ueneiai oi cite iJutch iiej_aLone .m-i anaily MiaEiiifc^i«Wr^.tWi ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND a priff n f f h»'~» nrp^on f |\ : f J 1 -kT 1 1 1 1 / i '^ 1 )■■■■ belief *hat h r: a inau- r t fi -- » ' t' ; I, ? i ''< ' 1 1 cQiimt'iu.'" t t'l p I' r- i f . V, ' . , n . t f ' " a: t • n-J auaiiccii history. ,Ai ,: n considers himself "a ^vxiiis blow in the heavem^ A DUTCH CLOTHES HORSE. W" ; i ar ci I f< all continue to exist." I do not know what 1 f i; pen if it shuuid occur to the Frieslanders -^!'■iish theiii-f^'ves as a separate i^uvermnent i>..a'ad: ^U' tiie a.tU.ority of the i-^t -i i:.e Kins:- «d fl'^arja-id : wIi^-^'^It't this fr--dom w^-aa r

MiuM.i a!ai rr-nected. Xurth a)f i.^'-uwaa^d^ai vou comr* in a few aa!*- ■ .1 a. V . A- i i i. / '.. the A' N4 a f H I ^i i tH^:. PLACE-NAMES 235 equally empty yellowness of the sandy shore, wheie the ;:rai~ae- Tn>\b.' and shiver in the strong breezes ai ai set 111 ' via a tales of eld. So shall you come arv K-nijaa; air! i.'-iikum, Hijum, Marrum and ! I lu a i r ) lloiwerd, where is the ferry across to AiiieLaii Island. Or you may go by Stiens, whose name indicates t^^^ n "RniTinn mad came this wav. Stiai s church, xception i irge, but for the i, hruther 11.1 ..i- « ' l iu.;iia>^ In i,a<=-i other churches III iha j. 1 a-, stands on one oi tho e th*- uauai feature of these villages, la ctij), or ia a i i^- fieaped up by those remote settlers ill iiii>t aaj_ a LIS and inhospitable wastes, in riaips when civilisation was young, was the only ufv a? oanil— and that perhaps not always certain. the original " home," whose name is iJ 1 in the usual termination, '' um," i i I lace-names. On those clay-heaps ^ liad their primitive ih : aa- lages stretched away as tune i.H.ii'rv terpen, now iiiin(a:i.u.)ied either by a i! 11 or via a e eagerly dug away and their H aa >oid i^ lie ton, and at his^h prices, to mix with the hu!ii:.r\' -a-ls of less fer^:^.- regions. Almost aiiv dav yva maV see this w.v:.. .a; progre-- : uith perhaps some antiquary or scientiiie laaii. i an by archaeological or other societies, wat a „ dia'aers. .le-t. -^-a.frhing of antiquarian uv -a.iiavu.iiC ! thed, as very often is the case. ^ f prehistoric man, the refuse sX. . 1. .;. \ i. ' . found aii i Li* .1 L i. >. '- L tt i lU } I ■' ' I- 1 xvnfp on. i : i i t. . I. '.... ... t na \ bp H 1 ^ t ' a f ' ' . « ! • . 2"^') ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND of his poor little water-logged life, aie dog up and sorted f.iVer. f'^ur \\Lu.i ultimate end 'lid lie live, 'wu.i> laiow- how maiiv CTf'n.fiotiMfi^ ot inin :' Wdiv, it W'jUid >fM>?ii, tor li-Mdohii innr.- th.Hi ill.tr hi- MOV.ii/e, becijiiit; a (.ie-iraiii' •-i A XV Ani) :^(,i ''!i i'«>ut*" Ujv ' o - 'fiingen, .u=;r;^ ; brick l) on n.aj) a lid ^iL:ll-|'H,''^t-^ H.r(' like the vain nfidiinnn^- i,i nnd.nn^o^t;. and, a- luiia as a aood^nralln and ^-n ira- a:an = -.^oMifta/n laiji, ^lunkiiiii, sqiieakinn ea.d Tinindia-ihir. ihu.j tik' n^a\i iia,ia,>h : Swaa^we^':eiin,iia., idn-a,!aa^-'/^' , < iaa!"ina.ik!d >iii:n -posts I saw, directmg to those plaee^ in me patricirehai mea^sure AN OLD-FASHIUNt^i SIGNPOST. THE GRIM CHURCHES 237 of lirnca bv nnr^^ ta aa- : i'-L-- a f V J .! TTid minutes, rather than b\ miles is calculated ai ry ' 1 three mi.i.a>. ta . = ... a... . « -i I fi To the hour a-h^-fiMn's pace and a httie bit over. Ira eounti b oauan Groningen and Leeuwarden is the very rienaxifm of the picturesque, and iiil the vidaear -and one is also disposed to say iiU the cdiureiies a,rf^ alike. Very grim dark ure\"-raMi brick- biiilt diurches, mostly with to th >.aa(dad:.aak luuib, and all with ;. a -.-... ^ litive iih a> uf architectural adornment; sin . .. -v, ainu- 1 fortress-like, they seem more suited a : o of tJie ghionne Ljad^- of the Norse mythology tiatn luv that aif ih ran^-i I -a-, ;.. 'Vn J ^ a a-'aj ,,t nnn. I . — n ' ^ e- ' - ^ ■ a a. ; ■ . -•-, Tan. aannot iaii tr» !a)ta/t* ' iiiOiaa.-. "' Wacht 11 viior dan hluinh"' aaa very practical knjd ^d WMuden eitiiiiuodxurai UMjd in Holland for arynig linen— a contrivance which gives more surlace to 238 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND th t- ii'ii. {niaaiil hr--- ^^ perity. As you comi up along the lia^ notice tla with 1 ciii windows, it V*" that Gronii. the world to-dnv. tna 1 a- ii^* >fTsr< ',!"'""'; • J i f ; f » I i, ^ 11 '..^ C V> ;„4 C *Ji But 1 i r ^ T' rmit these remarks t . . . f t. i * i, --, ■ ■ i. i " i V^ a«i f'a. t !4l.uoL< auliuSS in tLc LuV\ll. c » \ « i> ta- ,^!>-.i^ iniiipiMi, brick-]' -n* :M.-a'?a A;i ^^-a^i: 'i-H-~ !:.m: greatly attract me ; aa,d a. la- La-'^ic Mark I. -ar^^'lv one of the w'rlo-t and rnonnio^'^ nf laafj-aa ■-[•iai -^ Hi I a I >' . Ma!'t ia'> rij:: to ii-iaian'^ar. - > \ • : -v^ ' tM,:iir\" j-a.^ ■ !iu Lai-t. t f t • I : I > * ' i ■* * ' > aa!-a. a\,:p ai-. ! ,a 'o Uaa- «a tho^o hmiaps v<. hownvrr, T^Mlia -nial! ni scale #' t^W&'' ■-■■■'■ ■■'^^-"'- -''^^ "3 a k^'' \:^;\ ITi ai'Wr^- av- — „^ ^ ■ • .--,'7"/- . «: . *> . (Wv* ' ■ *" -^_ -T---— :«-:--„-- -^J^, ^ -, -a yi?:'^ ) I it L I T^ fe '• / > a-" .a ij i rt=^ » — f ^4. -- #aa .•-Vi- r^ ^^«fd*v> til '•1 SH^-^ *.;2* V^^- 4 /r{ 'l-^ ROOTl MARKT AND ST. MABTIN's TOWEE, GEONINGBN. GRONINGEN 241 ih.l: the little Guard house of 1509. Its window-shutters, painted in : w ^ colours, as customary throughout tlir rnimfrj, disclose more vividly than elsewhere tho < i :i of that fashion of painting; to resemble t ir I bf. k window-curtains. \ t !\ noticeably is Groningen a Roman Catholic licigiibuuriiuud. Priests are common objects in the fr« t'f- ; and so are farmers, for this is a great grain- a vii region. For the rest, it is i hriving, peace- piare an^ has not known war smce the siege Tiiere is an old house in the Ossen-Markt 1 ; m cl I i? ^ hark to disturbed old tinii-. vvhirii Hidicairr: h--v wcary th^^v ai! \\vTe for pi :t( tiid i* I to go about their la casions. ^" (Unit :inve (id\ hk'T in Vrede schmkn mach, en ail maen des werelts donder slach," That is — '' irinj ■jiVi' thai Uk'Tv as ivaiV we maj Sh'4lvr i'lum the thaiai '-:' rms ot" !!a> uw-'b/' W-ib :ir ' liava^ fi=,ui iiu.; yt..^cK.. Ii.l •._Lomestic arcliitcetuf' < -■ m ^fHi.L'en sikjws it, in the many BdViuiiij^ r' -a- •' • ^ ■ . ^r •-• ,tii century build- ings, <^hih(i!,,b ' ^ i -^a, ia:i';,!M! -a w^icfi rJj-ia. ! the Uuci oor,' . »^ ^ ^ neexample. > «■ \ 1 ; i ia « \\ .:.■' '» : ; , of 242 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ■1. ns, but wo will turn south, t'liti'i'i ^^ f I- "^ is th P ft' > r i ( Di I ■■ r • I » M i bracken ; and those gr I ^ U enthe at \f'<^s. DreL h iths. Whcii li.t province ui a:=h'MJ veai's ago, n::^!, fo a grr^at ?.^.-^,aj. N'jt }''i- ii<*.- the Wild, ' ight under tho pi li. it liaggy, tussock\ i .• f'cgion of the '' 1 innucUcauuii, t tones which, a ording to M rn arc graves ol ii.L lians " ; or, according to the less imaginative, are merely the '' ^^^nvps of the dead." W^ ^^ vr may be the real significance of the name, theiv s but .? t explanation of the many scatter* J ef uj-, ui these stones here, m a land that hi a lajMv >h>ne. Tli'v ire ice-borne granite buiiri'-r-, Liui.^ia here iii ::..• youth of tin- worl'h l'\' a^- ^a- a--^a-,?^ ffoni Rcan^inavia. T]a_*ra are laore than iiitv a : of these alien st k r "nrpnfTio : the most famous, yet not quite the most spectacular, at T larloo. Ma! y of these collections by the long-exliUa icd iuicu^ uf nature are now protected; il (air- rf:,:.i, wvn'v a iJPTinrat^-r -.-Tn, would have ar- u, i .dr^af i b ..use not then had travel and c^ood rnad- ra;iH'^ ^h^an so roadilv accessible astheya^^ a^aa, fba- to-dav a,!.y ?ia 'ha'ist can a^aa-- to them. N^n i: tiiKa 1 r : a oHen lure. So did I turn aside at ^.'ria^i !a tiiai tla:^ atones of Tijnarloo, and come, iat I . J Assen, a little town amid the woods, and eainXai -^ Drenthe, - ; .' ■ b"? ^^twards to Rolde, where there i- :i " a . - ■ - ■ n f 11 p 'a ^i f, t ' Q' twri "" M M ^ f "^ S f I I H- H I I I if > r- ' ^ . , , - • . ■ * 1 taa; hagfiurd amnled oaks. The mossy b i ^ ache-i balifnad trar.ks oi thoS' -_■_- in keepnia with wdiat we like to tliink of thrsi' survivals from a time when ciTlf'l tna b were entireiv m Keeonia th< hit V ! f- an: nail n - Nature has well stage- ma lai neb. on * ■ 244 if'-^t' >t*lfU' Vn:i ptil riv>jj , : ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND • vhUe those primeval forces bronglit n u vind collected the far^^rown i } r liht them into these : uiips. ruauin uiiough in the dispubiUun Up"' r^ ngement by whi'^s ^^^^•i' f ? r.ip-t, ? e, constituting wlai v e call Thp atones of Tijnarloo are more in 1,4 I ; ■ t i 1 ! . 1. -. ?» 1 ; (S ONE OF THE HUNNEBEDDEN, ROLDE. Ui(j ntniiv ., r nilechs than are tho-^ of il>^^e. Kvuhnrr f.H M ' X -tence of the ''Huns/' whose irra vtr> t lie^e ^lonu^ may cover, is not lacking- -i ! t }■* Mi^h n: Ih' tiiP v;iu'i^^' ^nr^- ^ =:;*_.] in ancient sagas. Ancir^* per>ori;i! uruuii:-!.T> LuXl been founa i^ere by diligent hui. as the vikings, the ta 's "Huns" burnt the bodies oi r) f- ] i f i ' n^ CD K l\ I DRENTHE M7 dead, nothing more has come to light. But iJTcufAH', i!:'-> ' -ithland ir^eeiice, was, it ^eems, a i iri if eb regions that anciently were styled fhir ihn I," and peopled by folk of Germanic and S undii eve Indeed, if we may accept the ei Vttti ] ee name of " Drenthe " from Ihentfjf^n i^ K vay, it would seem that they e r i ; ; . avians, who * ' wanted their pie t e Hi*^ sun," "^^^ very rea^uiiablv came south in ill Mt. U V or all concerned, there were a In id V ill : 1- .., sunning themselves m this perhaps i ; ' r-' i . 'y warm climate, people who i;r:^erite(i the) .eivsjrehvr,. ld-,'n, as we ha\e:' Ih recent y^ar- obher\^ei.i, rathee acutely, there was trouble. B}" thr evidej:ia-^ ..f ;i--^e " Hunnebedden " v-iy ihv:^o relics seem to indieeti that battle-ground. The presumption liie Hun chieftains losing -r +hese strangrrs nut from m establishing 1 1 1 emselves . themselves would seem to miieti troiibit:. lu- tfais v\ ciS a vast rc in li ', J J '_-■!. so lIllilA + e, i , r , .t-t f-- t i ■T T 1 it, f^. ■' e' ^e..- ^:i'n..^Qd peoples hrid pmved xerionous. thev \v.n.e,e -ruee:uiy iiave tiu.i^:u'...'i to ilte t tlie-t r f s as memorials to the fallen among tiie ere aine. ;•-*>,./ J 1 ti^ir Ik tne place 11 the sun. n T th., airgel}' wear \Vi/;-'' m the ruud aeid »VH'a A i.if HelJao d.- Drej iliie i; 1 i Is L ih= ink the northen w ti td their folk v^rv le essential province of heaths, but I 248 also ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND aks and much woodland. Vries I i d JiiOSt 611. •->•' «v\' 'PQ if'a^' ^'rV a I 1 I W'e iiuitj ; f i ULliVL i:Ail:zy the i:an..i iii^^'vitabie i^-iU\rf\ It w true tLa* ^L a- *l:U!: ia^r-. af comrn aa'-'atio!;. -;:.'a U(a[i an , V canals 1 ^ •ntsche '.at Vuli a\' f r- ur D^'V iM-t, a-f t ' \' L) ul feature elsewhere. runs beside a pubKc road, a -nrm-T or ]a^pr th* r^^ wlll be -^^! H board with the one w r i -n-u: ati it in proi * a^tters. This, iii>'-'i ^^ otraa-," is an injuh *; ■; *>■ -- ; -■ ■ ' :;' tr -a^^ to -tfave their sail-. ■ ' ' . ■: ■ . r , r* .- ■ ^ ' 'i alid LiiC L w •::'l KaWltap.p ■^ ■ : f',- I at i 1 ua ages, and swine. Meppel, at the termina- iHiii a all tiiis phantasmagoria and also at the end of Dreiithia is the capital, not of the province, but of all this agricultural business ; and there is not much to c^av of It but just that. But the purple heaths ; !- beautiful. To them the bees — for Drenthe is a great bee-keeping district — are taken when the heat La I is in bloom. The hives are taken by trek- schuit and cart to those honey-bearing wilds and placed thrrp for that season. We in England owe ii a i a i in these last years to the Dutch bee- ia aiar 1 a vvi entile so-called '' Isle of Wight disease " English bees and almost wholly de- ha f niiul ated uur own hives, the importation of Dutch queens immune from the infection, saved the situation. ft \- well waith while to explore into those heaths, I, coming, say to Hoogeveen, literally, '' high iiipadows." Mri^ \ ■■!"*• - la i ■ ^ ' tal^T \\nli a:' lai'at; 1 1 i-jLi.Otxiik> are " veens." At H UldlilXV U;.- lu- _. - ::.aiday, the Protestant com- Td invited to church by tuck af - i-ringing. There is an " Enge- 250 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND land " village in tlii n f ' one of the many similar name?, iriaunu WcirM.ei, ot our ao^ ^'•>tv»r:^ tO.?ri\~i;o. f h> }• ? rii^'iT Leeu- iruiu t;i:- ^ ''HHit r\- : a i:'{>ii- .v.] :■• 'V.-U ' •HHOhMf Onint '" ' .! "V f " ' '^ ^^ ta.:t in iaii- t r ] "■' ; '^Tf^. i'-r ooiO- IS true * oa' the Joo,':i "a I, . , )♦ ■ li^iiiiiuii i uuii:{)ri'heii- sion. \'^ I )/■•; ! 1 get I Oi ra'^r>s * such as \V; I ; de bel? " \m:' i~ O'O' Oi-iiws? " '" Wo kost het ? " '' li.j 1:3 miju \riend," a vriend" vriend." THE STAPHORST COSTUME. or , J., 1 n air I;,f.TV WP I. 1 1 1 iUi f xr'/ro>5a">n 01 r HOtO" f*_)r aii ririe. 1 Li >.! I I > * ; '. ' !.or sia'jp 1 i> to ioo^asr you see an ad\'^at:-taii \ t '. ! dJ Li ill [V J> 10, !.raoa.o\* iano\o ' ' ■ '■■■ ' J 'V'uU ivIiUW it liiCaliS a v4 f L u '--^ J^ cl u i i * THE STAPHORSTERS 251 liurst road '1 Ti ri n ' T 111' time, it provokes a smile. To those same ears the Dutch name for a stud-farm is an abomination, and i d^ no or uijose, therefore, to print it. I h Oh o o>nishing place in this region is Stap- it has a railway-station; it is on the main Z V de and so not out of touch, geographi- vviik tiic world; but it remains as exclusive peculiar in its habits and costumes as at any ii'^i'.' i\ was. lie re the children wear an invariable costume of red and blue ; the girls up to six years with a iuuud furry cap. After that age, they have the very ad-dress of the district : a parti-coloured 1 shape something between a horn i^r'f^ tall cap. They look in silhouette at ce like the strange animals we read of oed the world before geological conditions settled down. The Staphorsters know diat the world thinks their st} a peculiar ; but while they cling to it, they resent being noticed, and violently refuse, as a rule, to be sketched or phot f? iidi a They are an aloof and surlv people ; most!} t agricultural, and especially of horse- bictMlirig occupations. Their horses look almost (not q dtv. f )! that would be impossible) as peculiar • IN themselves ; tall, lanky steeds, thin in the flanks and loTOT io the leg. Ta ^ : the province of Overyssel. The river id,6oi, uhich gives it the name, runs into the Zuider Z past Zwolle and Kampen. I came through ])f loftv all arid a it- some uo that iidrt had quit quit . Ll- \\ <, ft-' 252 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND Mt'py^ ■ nil Zwirtesluis and ^lo^pv TTn^selt into Z\v. n» wf i althoiisfh near !' \ ssel, is actually on tf.u' /., ■■ Wj' i: IS a "' I ■ t ! licit^,', the > ' O-r L:u] nr-ttv llutrh J-:]:- lis, and th o "^ 1 (-.>-iri TOTf '\ ! wneie ;^^• r'j , ? useu tn r^-. Ci t i.i i i A i A i ; K- iii white starched frilly things iitLi^ CcirU ana vu^M'i:- ^u bri!/htly hey make you blink. 1' ^ n; rv^f, :'? = - ai:J walks where the rtHiipuits I X lie is now -f-^sidentinl nv.f\ not Mil mediae valism. "^ .\ .\ \ it I Ynii Kampkn i- in>t the onmnQifn kind ui pidCT r.-'. lii'V a iiFi pat *^ fan tna ]a.-al and say '' Poor uld Kaiiip^-ii ' "' Tii^Tr ],^ Ho d'-iia caf iia extreme antiFjuitvp rnr tna lu-uii^ 1? 'P I F-aiul' It I- nnt iiaarnan rmt riiHM.;avFn m aJiuast its avarv circiimstaniaa A frioiidh' find' ni{'-a.i!Vii atttarifpFW oi Its ilOOd old da\'a PfFfVapa:^ tfir taWfi, 'I'litFra VVl t ■ \ KAMPEN 253 come through the archway of the Korenmarkt I' ID, with its portly white-washed towers, or '^''■-'"^^■'^ tli'jcc ulP-Ff gates, tho-e oi tde Gellebruad^a^^-, « ^Z ^ and the H. : - u I use am the fiftt iron old ill' 1 very great . . , intiquities. 1 ' century, an ways at once. 'U of com sentences wiLuiJi * i celled justice whicl. I a ,matic among all such i; a; : : that li di is divided into two parts by a screen On this side, let us picture the public, the accused and his ^ ^^^-^^^ • ^^^ i *n tha^ we imagine the judges as they sat, invisible, to try the cases. The screen was actually and visibly what we style in our lei£al phTFi^eo- logy "the Bar." The ^ i and the invis are ever the most daunting ; and to face that uubaua I) Fir^h aiai address it and hear its pronouncements a- a F been a severe ordeal alike for counsel ii p iuuui:>cd. More favoured than the folk of those tunes, we may pass through this screen and see the ten elaborate stalls in which tuuai' li fffo-ois of justice sat, with a huge sculpt iiied chimney-piece to keep them up to the mark as aiap la laa ; sculp- tufv a including that representinp tlie ^ s 254 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND TiOt lll'?itili them to ho in^f and spare l\d It'] lit. •on iiiA rotliam of Holl clJiU In men of Wtjl't; L lit' 1 Li i 'J I ' til T ' li I !| 1 1 ! V I : I pp O P' rs 1 V foolisli /.-■' /? TAKING TOLL ON A CANAL. thing. TT. ■ Lj. ■. I I. h ! knows that Kampen has the 1 r 's to say V, / i » "> T 1 -^ r- ^--^ 1^ XcililMt'Li iUivf ,l\ iciilM, t f . I , -^ - TiV- ^ 1 '- ( Ix ,,l ■J.IiljUt ilii pi"' i \ {. -U'_ 'JmLi Jli^ S. ISu Uiic evrr ln,'ttei>:d tlic iicj^f^d resolution of the town DE VENTER 255 council following on a discussion about the in- efficiency of the fire-engines. They resolved " that i III vening preceding a fire" all the appliah u^ Jiiu>t \io overiiauled. The "wise men of Gotham" r i cused of building a wall to keep in liu^ ^ua „ w, ;e>rrve the simiiuer : and the lown council f K unpen are said to have roofed in a ^ 1 to it from the sun's rays. i 11 AUiH :f t Ho » ^ t WuUUuli ^Fezep, quaintest object I saw by t^^ ^'^5'' ^''.n Hf' kaiijpen was an extremely fat v., ■ tliat iii ll.ai.jhu Hii^ wuuid l:n; straiipV'}, .^ to r)p aiiuinia .lau angling uwkwanilv .^ iq 1^^< i i^ -ku >\,i that what looked like r > 1 iial Jiiie was really an ingenious wa toil Iruiii a vessel below, by the aid shoe. From Kampen to Deventer I came Heerde, and Veesen, crossing the Yssei i, ferry ; ail 1 so past the busy brickfields of 01st which, i^^ ^-^ va\ of brickfields, smelt rather much. The ^^ * ' i i 1 uljio river, far broader and finer somehow, tlian n baa a--. ]\ < k:, famous as a local delicacy throughout ^i iio i- - j-^mger-bread cake by no means so iricli vidual as might be supposed, nor so good. Rather toudi and rubbery, k th.c similar " Koek " of expected to find it ; with long strings of laviirating it, and steamers. "' Davaiiter jjMVta'ittM' dts stately lo T- ''fi crossed /)^ a wtjuucii bridge; the tower of St. Lebuinus' 256 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND diurch pr»^^'5irin;ij" i>yvT an , \ ~ i, i, T' and iritf'it'- wiuiL^orVf, t SI, , V . ? ; i ' -, J ■ I 1 : •) T I * ( - [■!;- [ t t, ii i : i iv •. ♦ i . » I . V . , . i . i - a I ill tfinruuaia and iri outline n,^a: ve^^io^ ot that ul tna ii«ji...a. • •* at V> i:Mia.iJi,MCi. , 1 iiv ^» -/ ■ - • malefactors were tiaav aarhnght a^ would appear fr^an an afa i-nt ^ su-Dended out^rie the wrigliaa,e^t-.a -i. {,}{ cuiii weri: bo i led, 8oiit.h of iJevrnoa,' the t'ov^r^^ of" Z;aidi-n ^oon appear. ilil^ i- tn.a.ualxai:h. • ;.v . . , ^ , vmce in Holland tu that of laiaJai to iind MI tia? Xethera.ua i- :ea\- k I 1 ) 1 "1 n r- t I ..., l i .1 } ' I i. -.-• 'I r = a 5 ! linT 1 he --^taitaO' a- fseaUtO t nc truth tia??e ar^ n.ot ui'eat. ful and in part- |eirkdike. J^ 1 ia: uui uaii English county of i ae chosen by the weaHlii-r and more ^^, Hare the phaiter n'-ai, Jir\at vr 'si- t , •r'l i i A. i i >a!iiatia, 01 i. K.I all L 1. » ^■ i : { ' 1 L \y i >- '-»cifb I I 1. C'' O I 1 1.) i i •■ ( i v^ an iioi:^ 1 '.Ji. ill IS a n » T" w ii i I ' i L Ti-irf ;: of tll^ I hOa a elf on the land, in some ornate Om ?i.a laiOW how liie^e iuiiv hit i a ra famihes of Haeldres, who vet, and are piv:..a thouga net Ma-ia TToUand, as in modern an\- aa to-dav who has th ra t a I ". • < r • I • ' t i n t' t - • n a M 1 1 ! 1 lan'i ar^a it h- tiie " \ eiuwt',. dhat IS the re ' r - i he harren. The ancien' yiiie Ol Geideiiand le u pr^a. '- ifcf'«. i V # r.&a' 957 in o < Q Q » o H » < H at V I I ZUTPHEN " Hoog van moed Klein van goed, Een zwaard in t'hand, Ts t'wapen van. CJelderland." That is to say : — '" ii! courage high, ill small r^>tatt^. bin, irood ; With sword h 259 1 1 i t ' Th 1 5> C ai'ni:5 Ui 7-^ •Hi*"! I ^^ ^ r s ! r - "^Irvline, witii ma up like r »>i exainpiO' T] i !l it uiic ui Durer's en^i^ tvn aXliibiliun, ViiXhvT liiaij tta;^ ,;] \' a. 11 a TOW? a rn''^>i'*^ T[Pi\v^\" rt :-; fa> riMaar"- etchings ..- and tural I !QPQ ^iur c ai I t ■ fl.o viaw of HTIV nihrv i:a:a'*.' I i-:-aa\\ 111 Matthew Arnold's phrase, does Zutphen wiaaDei- (r^uii liur tcA\t:r:> the iabt eir/hantments of the 3iid,i'- Iges"; just as lia; Li^+.-ra ra^-an-^s the last filuudy doings ui t:=.._ m^'^irj/vAl w;Ha. aiid the luaiidi f,a-'^itv of the Rmht-'---^- • : ■ -■ captuie of the 17:: The name r -n is famihar to lit 11. bv reason of Uic u.. ^.xo of that name, :> i;wn, I" r^"'- English against t' a ^' ^aa!:';:^^^- ; ;. n whioh Sir Phi p >.aiiey was mortaaa ! , Tne battleheld was actiiallv at U ariisveia, t^ > \\ ! ; ]•, a :_, i ; ■'-- t ', I ... i .i ■■ tf ; < i • 1 ■-■ A d town t la north-east. The \\>iiini E[erk, OthaiaviM' ' V Mr h ! u" ta r i T i 1 1 ^ \ y S ; 1 ! > taiNW, U a, „ , n \ Ii Ui'uute iiai.i Ilia re 26o ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND i i 1,4 .;. ' ('I >r. W ciipuigis has an ancient and ni:\ Wiin n stone-coined roof. It was l'*r Vdii iii'i' >li.'Avn jt witli must -^'— the nn Lu it lo lii 01 : I.' -il il ii:^ !^^ va1 times, ^"'m n such things could „i I ' .ii, nri^j^fp ^nd 1 1 f . J I a fi d. t i I >* vii. iK cording to ces, I f • ? : \ s l'd">H ii.'l,!t lai ^ J la- ■!'.!* a";; t La ;- a!.- tia/ T'^i.'l iV t i!i: Imglish — of sorts. Fa ^ogan, by way of r a a_ aiself, by saying that, unlike most of lii^ cauarr a a, hv loved ''beastly things." This 1^ !! a tmosphere which would have i - < ■*. ^ I { A SPORTSMAN 261 been not altogether pleasant if it had not been obvious that he u i- a sportsmaii. and meant that hp I ) V 1 • fa--' Ur« -- \N * a ■ ' ■ ■ : « idi ''"i : - a ' '* ! ■ I !' a 1 iuii< ' ; a H- > : •- - . - f 'MS f '^ : _ : : . '\ - ■ a a' r* "- - ' * • ^, part . [ t r- ' \, .. . .a= } I u^[< -' J!. . ' :. a tie w.i< , ., aa;- , s fai la-' a s|)urt>ia;ia, i\\ ^'\a:a'V c^^aatia".^ ! ani >■ a''a' to sa\a We jt^a-Maaiaua-:^ nL^aiT taa aoiiiiitaais if >port m Hn|'a,nr1. Tueie Wia't' IK it inaav '^' >\i'..j rtfaeia" it .ipf^earaH n. that rf.uiiitiaa An .la:: ,-,ua ■.T, fU' t--i)a''d a s!a,ai' -a'ana'" ia consciousness !-aj ci aata, iiripiJV {}t-.ria.i},)> in ut tiia^ i!Ot beiiia a '-p..atin:: t-ui.i,ntr}a aiui thnikinsf himstaf saft*. Mv !r,aaa.' of iiata'^',' Jevrllr'.! far- 'ju.!! : ' ."- ai\ :L J faaa •Ma.t^'d ^a! 1 a a \ i r t ^■^pHartaiiii ..England a w'ina, a!:'! n sitting ; nui \ a to bits. I * * : .1 -:: .« a. !K and that 7aa -l^n^* !ard>- on the \uu^u. \t a ijia:3L iliem into fr ainaiits. lie seemed to think the doing of such a tha g as shooting a bird in flight an achievement incredibly daa ait, and, scenting disapproval, got a good deal less a " ible. So I left him, meditating, no doubt, iiioie of what T call murder, and recovered my spirits in the grateful presence of those murmuring avt iiutji nf I Lij.-^ mounting so loftily, with white i d ws ol ^kv amid the blue seeming to scrape the summits ci them, and came through suburban Velp into Aifilicxii. \n ai is seated on the Rhine, just below the 'I I 262 ON THE ROAD IN HOLLAND ,1 ■0:7 n r, ,■ trif a I. >\l >*''f- hil!-^ but J^?'*!;tiv fni are tiie surruunfiiiius Ar>a.*a:': rlj.it tan\ai ^ ? 1 i I ^ ! r 1 ! , i > 4 ^ t > ' I With some surprise, rest of ' neat ot t I Is. If a\a u ! - ?•.'■•?■; i r w'hera tli^^' v;e f f i ■ a a • 4 ! 1 * ; I >. -^ : I i ' a. c gives it i as fa! ha upulent ]l011~"> Fi : a*"^ f i»a' n a !_. II i 1 ' . It a -iMf,^ \ V aa"^ ra ( aaai la-aat 1 1 • • •a.L a 1 • n •nake the better Tun- Nai (juiitre, ^ aa as the :f1. if;; O X -Liaii^cr comes to see. Nor exactly lectric tramways, that H Hand. a i tiie country where the antique and rii^^ mrhu.^ i- tb?^ usual, I here ta ing these pages ' conscious that there is sufficient lijtiiai volume quite as large as this for he wh I wi ! ^ to go and produce it. i k \ I i i LUL a a INDEX Alkmaar, 121, 123, 144. Almshouses, 23. 221. 223. Amsterdam, lu, 2.i, ud, 51, 97. 110—118, 123, 124, 142, 167 Aa;-!raaarra :n xkialiCiia 2*Uj — 263 Assumburg, Kasteel, 120 Bennebroek, 98 Benningbroek, 156 Bergen, 121 Bergen-op-Zoom, 38 Bevelaiid, 2\u:Lii, Island of, 19, 32 South 19. 29, 37 iiu.c.uara, l-i -190 Breda, 3U 1 7 Broek-in ^\ iLerland, 125 Buitenpost, 236 Canals. 10, 17, 111, 117, 120, 125, 1 a. ] :^, 167, 255. Charles the Second, 45 Cheese, i « 3 U i Costume, 24—27, 37, 123, 126, 131— J 12 170. 195. 250 Crown Prince Wilhelm, 155 — 166 Currencv, 2; Cmi', Aibfrt, 51 De Hooch, Peter, 217 Dekema State, 213—220, 222 Delft, 56, 64—68, 76 Deventer, 255 Dieren, 260 Dokkum, 222 Dordrecht, 48—53, 94 Dortsche Kil, The, 48 Drenthe, Province of a 2- 2^249 Dronrijp. 220. 222 Duiveland, Island of. 19 Dutch Tiles, 68—76 Dvkes, 17, 19, 30—32, 126, 130, 157, 172 Edam, 124, 142—144 Enkhuizen, 150—156, 170, 183, 210 Etten, 39 Ewijksluis, 156, 169 Farm-houses, 196—210 Ferwerd, 235 Finkum, 235 Flower-farming at Haarlem, 102 Flushing, 15, 17, 23 Franeker, 223—225 Friesian Cattle, 199—208, 211 363 I INDEX Friesland. 16, 39, 40, 69, 90, ]■; 1^3, li)5~236 ^ ^, ti":\:i''': '"""^vvr; Prince Wilhelm, ,_Tr(.)riirij''-n . .>■' J ■<*'' J.->) Jlj Ha.!"- ,;, liarh!--ri, 211, 2::^', 222, 22j-~- 225 ]Ia~ — h\ 2.12 11:.-:,. 2;;.> If 2i. •„.-•:.. fls H;r. 2-1. -:•■■'-. ^ T2 ]^'l 22^ 231 Hinnerin , 'i - . 2* = i :.a ■: Hippolijtushoef, s .-^^ 1? I H'jj u f r 1, 2">.'> Hoogeveen, 21 J H -K t fioiiand, The, 15 H ' ; ill -15"'. 15 r 210 H US ten Bosch, l<*j fi 1-,- 2- i i-:. The, 242—247 Ji J 'line, Countess of Hoiiai.d, Kolhorn, 156 Krommenje, i^i> K 2uc' 22:: h K "■-■\A ua-s!-; f ', f '*■ Lisse, 2 b U ! < -. - , ; 1 ;^ Ma.i- Kiver, 19, 31, 4^ :,2, u4. ai 3!a/H. 5.4-,. J i , i. M« tJ , X i-* '^ -*- -*- -!•' g u ci:^uia, 222 ?51— 2S6 ■■ V .:l T- V i , '„. * iii ^ 1 *«r 1 Marsau-:. 222 M~rr^ 2 2 In ^! Hi f: er, 50, 94 ).^ -v: '. • '. r:. r''a M i Iburg. 23— 32 Mid would . 2 7 Moerdijk, The, 4 7 Monnickendam, 124—130, 154 Nieuwe Schans, 242 North Holland Canai, 120, 124 North Sea Canal, 120 Oever, 158 Olst, 255 Ooryzer, The Golden Helmet, 195 Oosterland, 158, 160 Oosthuizen, 11 Orange, Princes i^i, 1^, 44, 56—58, 91 Orange, Town and Principality of, 56 ^ INDEX 265 Orange-Nassau, House of, 12, 67 Over-Flakee, Island of, 19 uvc.jiiui, Province of, 251 i2ti:i.--' i}> i7-i-.>o, The Hague, ' i S 12 riilir-^'^' Ui a-ai ii;n-3ilIllatiS'V»t ^ ': 24. "2 248 Rold.-. 214 !2j-'Laidaai, 39 i v^i L t ! 1 < . all 1 , 1 . ' a 4 J f ; Tadema, Alma, 222 TerGoes,29,38 Terpen, The, 235 Thalen, Island of, lU Tijnarloo, 242 Tiarrda, Ki,ia2x. 2i« Xromp, ,Aaa:;i.2 M;trtin, 66 Tulip Maiiiu. i :: . 2jO- 102 Tweeweg, 166 Vau Unia, Mar^aretha 214 \ i:'-ria 32 — ''>! • ,: Zutphen, 2>; Zwartesluis, : V2 Zwijndrecht, 52 Zwolle, 167, 251, .\.2 m .JAI>i 8 C';LUMBI.\ "\i^■^:^!i ii£« ''» m b-'^ ^ r COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 002 n li i « "^ < J. : < % '• %aa^ Harper On the road in Holland h d:5 it -^i^n a: \ r" y O o o < a a w^ uu (NJ U X • H- Z U* X O 1^ ?*^tl "" % ^ i.ir*